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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters of Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy from
+Italy and Switzerland, by Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Letters of Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy from Italy and Switzerland
+
+Author: Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy
+
+Release Date: April 5, 2012 [EBook #39384]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF FELIX MENDELSSOHN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Hélène de Mink, Bryan Ness, Music transcribed
+by Anne Celnick, Linda Cantoni, and the DP Music Team and
+the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note: Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the
+original document have been preserved. Obvious typographical errors
+have been corrected.
+
+
+
+
+     LETTERS
+     OF
+     FELIX MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY
+     FROM
+     ITALY AND SWITZERLAND.
+
+     TRANSLATED BY LADY WALLACE.
+
+     WITH A BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICE
+     BY JULIE DE MARGUERITTES.
+
+     [Illustration: logo]
+
+     BOSTON:
+     OLIVER DITSON & CO., 277 WASHINGTON STREET.
+     NEW YORK: C. H. DITSON & CO.
+
+
+
+
+FELIX MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY.
+
+
+Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy was born at Hamburg, on the third of
+February, 1809. The name to which he was destined to add such
+lustre, was already high in the annals of fame. Moses Mendelssohn,
+his grandfather, a great Jewish philosopher, one of the most
+remarkable men of his time, was the author of profound Metaphysical
+works, written both in German and Hebrew. To this great power of
+intellect, Moses Mendelssohn added a purity and dignity of
+character worthy of the old stoics. The epigraph on the bust of
+this ancestor of the composer, shows the esteem in which he was
+held by his contemporaries:
+
+"Faithful to the religion of his fathers, as wise as Socrates, like
+Socrates teaching the immortality of the soul, and like Socrates
+leaving a name that is immortal."
+
+One of Moses Mendelssohn's daughters married Frederick Schlegel,
+and swerving from the religion in which both had been brought up,
+both became Roman Catholics.
+
+Joseph Mendelssohn, the eldest son of this great old man, was also
+distinguished for his literary taste, and has left two excellent
+works of very different characters, one on Dante, the other on the
+system of a paper currency.
+
+In conjunction with his brother, Abraham, he founded the
+banking-house of Mendelssohn & Company at Berlin, still flourishing
+under the management of the sons of the original founders, the
+brothers and cousins of Felix, the subject of this memoir.
+
+George Mendelssohn the son of Joseph, was also a distinguished
+political writer and Professor in the University at Bonn.
+
+With such an array of intellectual ancestry, the Mendelssohn of our
+day came into the world at Hamburg, on the third of February,1809.
+He was named Felix, and a more appropriate name could not have been
+found for him, for in character, circumstance and endowment, he was
+supremely happy. Goethe, speaking of him, said "the boy was born on
+a lucky day." His first piece of good fortune, was in having not
+only an excellent virtuous woman for his mother, but a woman who,
+besides these qualities, possessed extraordinary intellect and had
+received an education that fitted her to be the mother of children
+endowed as hers were. She professed the Lutheran creed, in which
+her children were brought up. Being of a distinguished commercial
+family and an heiress, her husband added her name of Bartholdy to
+his own. Mme. Mendelssohn Bartholdy's other children were, Fanny
+her first-born, whose life is entirely interwoven with that of her
+brother Felix, and Paul and Rebecca, born some years later.
+
+When yet a boy, Felix removed with his parents to Berlin, probably
+at the time of the formation of the banking house. The Prussian
+capital has often claimed the honor of being his birthplace, but
+that distinction really belongs to Hamburg.
+
+His extraordinary musical talent was not long in developing itself.
+His sister Fanny, his "soul's friend" and constant companion,
+almost as richly endowed as himself, aroused his emulation, and
+they studied music together first as an art, and then as a science,
+to be the foundation of future works of inspiration and genius.
+
+Zelter, severe and classic, profoundly scientific, inexorable for
+all that was not true science, became the teacher of these two
+gifted children in composition and in counterpoint. For piano-forte
+playing, Berger was the professor, though some years later
+Moscheles added the benefit of his counsels, and Felix was fond of
+calling himself the pupil of Moscheles, with whom in after life he
+contracted a close friendship. Zelter was exceedingly proud of his
+pupil, soon discovering that instead of an industrious and
+intelligent child, one of the greatest musical geniuses ever known
+was dawning on the world. When he was but fifteen, Zelter took the
+young musician to Weimar, and secured for him the acquaintance and
+good will of Goethe, which as long as Goethe lived, seemed to be
+the necessary consecration of all talent in Germany. By this time
+not only was he an admirable performer on the piano, possessed of
+a talent for improvisation and a memory so wonderful, that not only
+could he play almost all Bach, Händel, Haydn, Mozart and Beethoven
+by heart, but he could also without hesitation accompany a whole
+opera from memory, provided he had but seen the score once. The
+overture to Midsummer Night's Dream, so popular now in every
+country, was composed before he was seventeen, and was played for
+the first time as a duet on the piano by his sister Fanny and
+himself on the 19th November, 1826. This is indeed the inspiration
+of youth with its brilliancy, its buoyancy, its triumphant joy,
+full of the poetry of a young heart, full of the imagination of a
+mind untainted by the world. It was not till some years after, that
+Mendelssohn completed the music to Shakspeare's great play. In
+1827, Felix left the University of Berlin with great honors. He was
+a profound classical scholar, and has left as a specimen of his
+knowledge, a correct, graceful and elegant translation of Terence's
+comedy of Andria, a work greatly approved of by Goethe. He excelled
+in gymnastics, was an elegant rider, and like Lord Byron, a bold
+and accomplished swimmer. The year he left the University, he went
+to England, where Henrietta Sonntag was in the height of her fame.
+He played in several concerts where she sang, as well as with
+Moscheles, his old friend and teacher, now established in London.
+
+On his return to Germany in 1830, he visited Goethe at Weimar, and
+there planned his journey to Italy, a country which all men of
+genius yearn after, as the promised land of inspiration. When in
+Rome, Felix Mendelssohn began the grand Cantata of the Walpurgis
+Night, to Goethe's words, at which he worked for some years. On his
+return from his travels, Mendelssohn, who had now all the assurance
+and self-possession of an artist, was appointed chapel-master at
+Düsseldorf, a position which gave him the direction of the grand
+musical festivals held at that time in this city and in
+Aix-la-Chapelle. It was during his residence in Düsseldorf, that he
+composed his oratorio of St. Paul, and also, the first set of his
+"Songs without Words" for the piano, where the music, by its varied
+expression and its intensity, alone told the story of the poet.
+These compositions were a novelty for piano-forte players, and
+inaugurated a new style, full of interest, gradually setting aside
+the variations and sonatas which had become so meaningless and
+tedious. The oratorio of St. Paul was not given until 1836, when it
+was produced at Düsseldorf, under his own special superintendence.
+Mendelssohn composed very rapidly, but he was cautious in giving
+his works to the public, until they thoroughly satisfied his
+judgment, the most critical to which they could be submitted.
+
+In the latter part of 1836, having gone to Frankfort, to direct a
+concert of the Ceciliaverein, he became acquainted with Cecilia
+Jeanrenaud, a beautiful and accomplished girl, the second daughter
+of a clergyman of the Reformed Church, and in the spring of 1837
+she became his wife. The marriage had been delayed some months by
+Mendelssohn's ill health; he had begun to feel the first symptoms
+of the nervous disease, affecting the brain, from which he was
+destined henceforth to suffer, and of which, finally, he was fated
+to die.
+
+After his marriage he undertook the direction of the Leipzig
+Concerts. All over Germany, Mendelssohn was in requisition; his
+immense genius as a composer, his great skill as a conductor, his
+gentle, fascinating manners, gave him extraordinary popularity. It
+was England, however, after all, who appreciated him most. Sacred
+music seems to appeal especially to the English taste. Haydn,
+Händel, Beethoven have all found more patronage and appreciation in
+England than in their own country. So it was with Mendelssohn; the
+greatest musical triumph ever achieved, was the performance of the
+oratorio of Elijah, given at Birmingham, the work on which
+Mendelssohn's fame will rest. He was nine years in composing this
+oratorio; and notwithstanding the most flattering ovation,
+Mendelssohn's serene temperament was not moved to vanity or
+conceit. In the very moment of his success, he sat down modestly to
+correct many things that had not satisfied him. The trio for three
+female voices (without accompaniment) one of the most beautiful
+pieces in the oratorio, was added by the composer after the public
+had declared itself satisfied with the work as it originally stood.
+Elijah was produced in 1847, but Mendelssohn had been several times
+to England before this, playing at the ancient and Philharmonic
+concerts; at that time, the resort of the élite in London.
+
+It was during one of these visits in 1842, that Prince Albert, who
+as a German and a musician, had sought his acquaintance, introduced
+him to Queen Victoria. The visit was entirely devoid of formality,
+for without any previous announcement, the Prince conducted
+Mendelssohn from his private apartments, to the Queen's study,
+where they found her surrounded by papers, and just terminating her
+morning's work. The Queen receiving him most graciously, apologized
+to the composer for the untidiness of the room, beginning herself
+to put it in order and laughingly accepting his assistance. After
+some agreeable conversation Mendelssohn sat down to the piano and
+played whatever the Queen asked of him. When at length he rose,
+Prince Albert asked the Queen to sing, and gracefully choosing one
+of Mendelssohn's own compositions, she complied with the request.
+Mendelssohn of course applauded, but the Queen laughingly told him,
+that she had been too frightened to sing well. "Ask Lablache,"
+(Lablache was her singing master) added the Queen, "he will tell
+you that I can sing better than I have done to-day." Prince Albert
+and the Queen were ever warm patrons and friends of Mendelssohn.
+
+During all this time so brilliantly filled up, Mendelssohn's health
+was continually and gradually declining. His nervous susceptibility
+was such that he was often obliged to abstain from playing for
+weeks together, his gentle and affectionate wife watching him and
+keeping him as much as possible from composition. This was a very
+difficult task, for Mendelssohn was a great worker. Even when
+travelling, he would take out pen and ink from his pocket and
+compose at one corner of the table, whilst the dinner was getting
+ready.
+
+Little was Mendelssohn prepared, either mentally or physically at
+this time, to bear the one great sorrow that overwhelmed this happy
+life, on which the sun of prosperity had ever shone. His sister
+Fanny, to whom many of his letters were written, and who had been
+the companion of his studies, possessing the same tastes and a
+great deal of the same genius; his sister Fanny, who was the
+nearest and dearest affection of his life, was suddenly taken from
+him. She had married and was living in Frankfort, where she was the
+ornament of society, in this enlightened and art-loving city, when
+in the midst of a rehearsal of Faust, a symphony of her own
+composition, she was struck with apoplexy and fell back dead in her
+chair. There is no doubt that this shock considerably increased the
+disease from which Mendelssohn was suffering, and though he used to
+rally and even appear resigned, this sorrow, until the day of his
+death, lay heavy at his heart. Again he tried to find health and
+peace in travel; he went to Switzerland with his wife, who strove
+to keep him from all occupation and labor, but he would gently urge
+her to let him work. "The time is not far off, when I shall rest; I
+must make the most of the time given me." "I know not how short a
+time it may be," would he say to her. On his return from
+Switzerland and Baden-Baden, he went to Berlin; and once more all
+that remained of this tenderly attached family, were united for a
+short time. At length he returned to his home in Leipzig, serene as
+ever, but worn to a shadow by the acute and continued pains in the
+head for which he could obtain no relief. On the 9th of October, he
+went to the house of a friend, one of the artists of the Leipzig
+concerts, and entreated her to sing for him a song he had that
+night composed. By a strange coincidence, this song began with
+these words, "Vanished has the light of day." It was Mendelssohn's
+last composition, the last music he heard on earth, for whilst the
+lady was singing it, he was seized with vertigo and was carried
+insensible back to his house. He recovered, however, comparatively
+from this attack, but a second stroke of apoplexy placed his life
+in extreme peril, and a third, on the 3rd of November, made him
+utterly unconscious. Towards nine o'clock on the evening of the
+4th, (1847,) he breathed his last, going to his everlasting rest as
+easily and as calmly as a tired child sinks to sleep. He was in the
+thirty-ninth year of his age.
+
+Mendelssohn's death was looked upon, throughout Germany, as a
+public calamity. The funeral ceremonies at Leipzig were of a most
+imposing character, and all the way from Leipzig to Berlin, where
+the corpse was taken, to be buried in the family vault, the most
+touching honors greeted it. Nearly all the crowned heads of Europe
+wrote letters of condolence to his widow.
+
+Mendelssohn as a musician is profoundly original. In his oratorios
+"Paul" and "Elijah" he has swerved from the conventional religious
+style; eschewing all fugues, his oratorios are full of power, and
+contain great dramatic effects--at once grand and solemn. His other
+music is remarkable for the sweetness of its melodies--its earnest
+simplicity. His instrumentality is scientific without being
+pedantic or heavy, and utterly devoid of antiquated formalism;
+though pathetic often, there is always a vigor and life in all his
+inspirations; the low mournful wail that runs through all Chopin's
+works, arising from a morbid condition of health and heart, is
+never felt in Mendelssohn. There is none of the bitterness, the
+long suffering that artists' lives entail and that artists infuse
+into their works, for Mendelssohn was a happy man from first to
+last.
+
+Mendelssohn the happy, "the boy born on a lucky day," has left a
+life-record that amid the gloomy heart-rending and often degrading
+histories of artists, shines with a chaste and holy life. Nature,
+the world and circumstance had done every thing for him. To the
+great and all-sufficient gift of his musical genius he added many
+others,--he had the eye of a painter, the heart of a poet, his
+intellect was of the highest order; he was tall, handsome,
+graceful, his social position one of the finest in Berlin, rich,
+and surrounded by the tenderest family affections. With all these
+advantages, with all the success that attended him, with all the
+flattery lavished on him, Mendelssohn was never vain or proud, and
+throughout his life was utterly free from envy. His fine, fearless,
+childlike spirit, led him through the world, unconscious of evil,
+undaunted by it. With all the temptations that must have assailed
+the young, handsome, rich man, there is not one moment of his life
+over which his friends would wish to draw a veil. On such a life as
+that of Felix Mendelssohn, it is good for every one to look, for
+once, genius is not set forth as a dazzling screen to hide and to
+excuse disorder and crime, but genius, that one great gift from
+heaven, was employed as heaven would have directed it, each action,
+each succeeding year of his life, bringing forth in various but
+harmonious ways, that extraordinary moral and intellectual worth,
+that rare beauty of character that endeared him to all who knew
+him, ensured him the unvarying love of kindred and friends, and the
+admiration of the whole world.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Last year a paragraph was inserted in the newspapers, requesting
+any one who possessed letters from Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy to
+send them to Professor Droysen, or to myself, with the view of
+completing a selection from his correspondence which we
+contemplated publishing. Our design in this was twofold.
+
+In the first place, we wished to offer to the public in
+Mendelssohn's own words, which always so truly and faithfully
+mirrored his thoughts, the most genuine impression of his
+character; and secondly, we thought that the biographical elements
+contained in such a correspondence, might be of infinite use in the
+compilation of a memoir--which we reserve for a future day--and
+serve as its precursor and basis.
+
+There are difficulties, however, opposed to the immediate
+fulfilment of our original purpose to its full extent; and at
+present it is impossible to decide when these can be removed.
+
+I have, therefore, formed the resolution to carry out my plan in
+the meantime within more circumscribed limits, but which leaves me
+unfettered.
+
+On Mendelssohn's return from his first visit to England, in the
+year 1829, he came to Berlin for a short time to attend a family
+festivity, and thence in 1830 proceeded to Italy, returning through
+Switzerland to France, and in the beginning of 1832 visiting
+England for the second time.
+
+This period, which to a certain degree forms a separate section of
+his life, and which, through the vivid impressions it made,
+assuredly exercised an important influence on Mendelssohn's
+development (we may mention that he was only one-and-twenty at the
+commencement of his journey), supplies us with a number of letters
+addressed to his parents, and to his sisters, Fanny and Rebecca, as
+well as to myself. I have also added some communications of the
+same date, to various friends, partly entire and partly in
+extracts, and now present them to the public in their original
+integrity.
+
+Those who were personally acquainted with Mendelssohn, and who wish
+once more to realize him as he was when in life,--and those also
+who would be glad to acquire a more definite idea of his
+individuality than can be found in the general inferences deduced
+from his musical creations,--will not lay down these letters
+dissatisfied. Along with this particular source of interest they
+offer a more universal one, as they prove how admirably
+Mendelssohn's superior nature, and perceptions of Art, mutually
+pervaded and regulated each other.
+
+With this view, it appeared to me a duty to give to the public
+these letters, stored up in the peaceful home for which they were
+originally destined and exclusively intended, and thus to make them
+accessible to a more extended circle. They begin by a visit to
+Goethe. May his words then accompany these Letters, as an
+appropriate convoy:--
+
+     "Be sure the works of mighty men,
+     The good, the faithful, the sublime,
+     Stored in the gallery of Time,
+     Repose awhile--to wake again."[1]
+
+        PAUL MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY.
+
+  BERLIN, _March_, 1861.
+
+  [1] "Was in der Zeiten Bildersaal
+      Jemals ist trefflich gewesen,
+      Das wird immer einer einmal
+      Wieder auffrischen und lesen."
+
+
+
+
+LETTERS.
+
+
+     Weimar, May 21st, 1830.
+
+Never, in the whole course of my travels, do I remember a more
+glorious and inspiriting day for a journey than yesterday. At an
+early hour in the morning the sky was grey and cloudy, but the sun
+presently burst forth; the air was cool and fresh, and being
+Ascension Sunday the people were all dressed in their best. In one
+village I saw them crowding into church as I passed, in another
+coming away from divine service, and, last of all, playing at
+bowls. The gardens were bright with tulips, and I drove quickly
+past, eagerly looking at everything. At Weissenfels they gave me a
+little basket carriage, and at Naumburg an open droschky. My
+effects, including my hat and cloak, were piled upon it behind. I
+bought a few bunches of lilies-of-the-valley, and thus I travelled
+on through the country, as if on a pleasure excursion.
+
+Some collegians came up to me beyond Naumburg, and envied me. We
+then drove past President G----, seated in a small carriage, which
+evidently had some difficulty in containing him, and his daughters
+or _wives_; in short, the two ladies with him, who appeared equally
+envious of my position. We actually _trotted_ up the Kösen Hill,
+for the horses scarcely drew bridle, and overtook several
+heavily-laden carriages, the drivers of which no doubt also envied
+me, for I was really to be envied. The scenery had a charming air
+of spring--so cheerful and gay, and blooming. The sun sank solemnly
+behind the hills, and presently we came up with the Russian
+minister and his suite, in two heavy carriages, each with four
+horses, in true ponderous official array; and my light droschky
+darted past him like a hare.
+
+In the evening I got a pair of restive horses, so that I had my
+little annoyance also, (according to my theory, enhancing
+pleasure,) and not a single bar did I compose all day, but enjoyed
+complete idleness. It was a delicious day, and one I shall not soon
+forget. I close this description with the remark, that the children
+in Eckartsberge dance merry rounds hand-in-hand, just as ours do at
+home, and that the appearance of a stranger did not in the least
+disturb them, in spite of his distinguished air; I should have
+liked to join in their game.
+
+
+     May 24th.
+
+I wrote this before going to see Goethe, early in the forenoon,
+after a walk in the park; but I could not find a moment to finish
+my letter till now. I shall probably remain here for a couple of
+days, which is no sacrifice, for I never saw the old gentleman so
+cheerful and amiable as on this occasion, or so talkative and
+communicative. My especial reason however for staying two days
+longer, is a very agreeable one, and makes me almost vain, or I
+ought rather to say proud, and I do not intend to keep it secret
+from you,--Goethe, you must know, sent me a letter yesterday
+addressed to an artist here, a painter, which I am to deliver
+myself; and Ottilie confided to me that it contains a commission to
+take my portrait, as Goethe wishes to place it in a collection of
+likenesses he has recently commenced of his friends. This
+circumstance gratified me exceedingly; as however I have not yet
+seen the complaisant artist who is to accomplish this, nor has he
+seen me, it is probable that I shall have to remain here until the
+day after to-morrow. I don't in the least regret this, for, as I
+have told you, I live a most agreeable life here, and thoroughly
+enjoy the society of the old poet. I have dined with him every day,
+and am invited again to-day. This evening there is to be a party at
+his house, where I am to play. It is quite delightful to hear him
+conversing on every subject, and seeking information on all points.
+
+I must however tell you everything regularly and in order, so that
+you may know each separate detail.
+
+Early in the day I went to see Ottilie, who, though still delicate,
+and often complaining, I thought more cheerful than formerly, and
+quite as kind and amiable as ever towards myself. We have been
+constantly together since then, and it has been a source of much
+pleasure to me to know her more intimately. Ulrike is more
+agreeable and charming than formerly; a certain earnestness
+pervades her whole nature, and she has now a degree of repose, and
+a depth of feeling, that render her one of the most attractive
+creatures I have ever met. The two boys, Walter and Wolf, are
+lively, studious, cordial lads, and to hear them talking about
+"Grandpapa's Faust," is most pleasant.
+
+But to return to my narrative. I sent Zelter's letter at once to
+Goethe, who immediately invited me to dinner. I thought him very
+little changed in appearance, but at first rather silent and
+apathetic; I think he wished to see how I demeaned myself. I was
+vexed, and thought that possibly he was always now in this mood.
+Happily the conversation turned on the _Frauen-Vereine_ in Weimar,
+and on the 'Chaos,' a humorous paper circulated among themselves
+by the ladies here, I having soared so high as to be a contributor
+to this undertaking. All at once the old man became quite
+gay, laughing at the two ladies about their charities and
+intellectualism, and their subscriptions and hospital work, which
+he seems cordially to detest. He called on me to aid him in his
+onslaught, and as I did not require to be asked twice, he speedily
+became just what he used to be, and at last more kind and
+confidential than I had ever seen him. The assault soon became
+general. The 'Robber Bride' of Ries, he said contained all that an
+artist in these days required to live happily,--a robber and a
+bride; then he attacked the young people of the present day for
+their universal tendency to languor and melancholy, and related the
+story of a young lady to whom he had once paid court, and who also
+felt some interest in him; a discussion on the exhibitions
+followed, and a fancy bazaar for the poor, where the ladies of
+Weimar were the shopwomen, and where he declared it was impossible
+to purchase anything because the young people made a private
+agreement among themselves, and hid the different articles till the
+proper purchasers appeared.
+
+After dinner he all at once began--"Gute Kinder--hübsche
+Kinder--muss immer lustig sein--tolles Volk," etc., his eyes
+looking like those of a drowsy old lion. Then he begged me to play
+to him, and said it seemed strange that he had heard no music for
+so long; that he supposed we had made great progress, but he knew
+nothing of it. He wished me to tell him a great deal on the
+subject, saying "Do let us have a little rational conversation
+together;" and turning to Ottilie, he said, "No doubt you have
+already made your own wise arrangements, but they must yield to my
+express orders, which are, that you must make tea here this
+evening, that we may be all together again." When in return she
+asked him if it would not make him too late, as Riemer was coming
+to work with him, he replied, "As you gave your children a holiday
+from their Latin to-day, that they might hear Felix play, I think
+you might also give me one day of relaxation from _my_ work." He
+invited me to return to dinner, and I played a great deal to him in
+the evening.
+
+My three Welsh pieces, dedicated to three English sisters, have
+great success here;[2] and I am trying to rub up my English. As I
+had begged Goethe to address me as _thou_, he desired Ottilie to
+say to me on the following day, in that case I must remain longer
+than the two days I had fixed, otherwise he could not regain the
+more familiar habit I wished. He repeated this to me himself,
+saying that he did not think I should lose much by staying a little
+longer, and invited me always to dine with him when I had no other
+engagement. I have consequently been with him every day, and
+yesterday I told him a great deal about Scotland, and Hengstenberg,
+and Spontini, and Hegel's 'Æsthetics.'[3] He sent me to Tiefurth
+with the ladies, but prohibited my driving to Berka, because a very
+pretty girl lived there, and he did not wish to plunge me into
+misery.
+
+  [2] Three pieces for the piano, composed in 1829 for the album of
+  three young English ladies; subsequently published as Opus 16.
+
+  [3] Felix Mendelssohn attended the Berlin University as a
+  matriculated student for more than a year; a vast number of
+  sheets written by him at this period, during the lectures, are
+  still extant.
+
+I thought to myself, this was indeed the Goethe of whom people will
+one day say, that he was not one single individual, but consisted
+of several little _Goethiden_. I am to play over to him to-day
+various pieces of Bach, Haydn, and Mozart, and thus lead him on, as
+he said, to the present day.
+
+I should indeed have been very foolish to have regretted my delay;
+besides, I am a conscientious traveller, and have seen the Library,
+and 'Iphigenia in Aulis.' Hummel has struck out all the octaves,
+etc.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Weimar, May 25th, 1830.
+
+I have just received your welcome letter, written on Ascension Day.
+I cannot help myself, but must still write to you from this place.
+I will soon send you, dear Fanny, a copy of my symphony; I am
+having it written out here, and mean to forward it to Leipzig
+(where perhaps it will be performed), with strict orders to deliver
+it into your own hands, as soon as possible. Try to collect
+opinions as to the title I ought to select; Reformation Symphony,
+Confession Symphony, Symphony for a Church Festival, Juvenile
+Symphony, or whatever you like. Write to me on this subject, and
+instead of a number of stupid suggestions, send me one clever one;
+still, I should rather like to hear some of the nonsensical ones
+sure to be devised on the occasion.
+
+Yesterday evening I was at a party at Goethe's, and played alone
+the whole evening,--the Concert-Stück, the Invitation à la Valse,
+and Weber's Polonaise in C, my three Welsh pieces, and my Scotch
+Sonata. It was over by ten o'clock, but I of course stayed till
+twelve o'clock, when we had all sorts of fun, dancing and singing;
+so you see I lead a most jovial life here. The old gentleman goes
+to his room regularly at nine o'clock, and as soon as he is gone,
+we begin our frolics, and never separate before midnight.
+
+To-morrow my portrait is to be finished; a large black-crayon
+sketch, and very like; but I look rather sulky. Goethe is so
+friendly and kind to me, that I don't know how to thank him
+sufficiently, or what to do to deserve it. In the forenoon he likes
+me to play to him the compositions of the various great masters, in
+chronological order, for an hour, and also tell him the progress
+they have made, while he sits in a dark corner, like a _Jupiter
+tonans_, his old eyes flashing on me. He did not wish to hear
+anything of Beethoven's, but I told him that I could not let him
+off, and played the first part of the Symphony in C minor. It
+seemed to have a singular effect on him; at first he said, "This
+causes no emotion, nothing but astonishment: it is _grandios_." He
+continued grumbling in this way, and after a long pause he began
+again,--"It is very grand, very wild; it makes one fear that the
+house is about to fall down; and what must it be when played by a
+number of men together!" During dinner, in the midst of another
+subject, he alluded to it again. You know that I dine with him
+every day, when he questions me very minutely, and is always so gay
+and communicative after dinner, that we generally remain together
+alone for an hour while he speaks on uninterruptedly.
+
+I have no greater pleasure than when he brings out engravings, and
+explains them to me, or gives his opinion of Ernani, or Lamartine's
+Elegies, or the theatre, or pretty girls. He has several times
+lately invited people, which he rarely does now, so that most of
+the guests had not seen him for a long time. I then play a great
+deal, and he compliments me before all these people, and "_ganz
+stupend_" is his favourite expression. To-day he has invited a
+number of Weimar beauties on my account, because he thinks that I
+ought to enjoy the society of young people. If I go up to him on
+such occasions, he says, "My young friend, you must join the
+ladies, and make yourself agreeable to them." I am not however
+devoid of tact, so I contrived to have him asked yesterday whether
+I did not come too often; but he growled out to Ottilie, who put
+the question to him, that "he must now begin to speak to me in good
+earnest, for I had such clear ideas, that he hoped to _learn much
+from me_." I became twice as tall in my own estimation, when
+Ottilie repeated this to me. He said so to me himself yesterday;
+and when he declared that there were many subjects he had at heart
+that I must explain to him, I _said_, "Oh, certainly!" but I
+_thought_, "This is an honour I can never forget,"--often it is the
+very reverse.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Munich, June 6th, 1830.
+
+It is a long time since I have written to you, and I fear you may
+have been anxious on my account. You must not be angry with me, for
+it was really no fault of mine, and I have been not a little
+annoyed about it. I expedited my journey as well as I could,
+inquiring everywhere about diligences, and invariably receiving
+false information. I travelled through one night on purpose to
+enable me to write to you by this day's post, of which I was told
+at Nürnberg; and when at last I arrive, I find that no post leaves
+here to-day: it is enough to drive one wild, and I feel out of all
+patience with Germany and her petty Principalities, her different
+kinds of money, her diligences, which require an hour and a quarter
+for a German mile, and her Thuringian forests, where there is
+incessant rain and wind,--nay, even with her 'Fidelio' this very
+evening, for, though dead beat, I must do my duty by going to see
+it, when I would far rather go to bed. Pray do not be angry with
+me, or scold me for my delay in writing; I do assure you that this
+very night while I was travelling, I thought I saw peeping through
+the clouds the shadow of your threatening finger; but I shall now
+proceed to explain why I could not write sooner.
+
+Some days after my last letter from Weimar, I wished, as I told
+you, to set off for this place, and said so during dinner to
+Goethe, who made no reply. After dinner however he withdrew with
+Ottilie into the recess of a window, and said, "You must persuade
+him to remain." She endeavoured to prevail on me to do so, and
+walked up and down in the garden with me. I wished however to show
+that I was a man of determination, so I remained steady to my
+resolve. Then came the old gentleman himself, and said he saw no
+use in my being in such a hurry; that he had still a great deal to
+tell me, and I had still a great deal to play to him; and what I
+had told him as to the object of my journey, was really all
+nonsense,--Weimar was my present object,--and he could not see that
+I was likely to find in _tables-d'hôte_ elsewhere, what I could not
+obtain here: I would see plenty of hotels in my travels. He talked
+on in this style, which touched my heart, especially as Ottilie and
+Ulrike added their persuasions, assuring me that the old gentleman
+much more often insisted on people going away, than on their
+remaining; and as no one can be so sure of enjoying a number of
+happy days, that he can afford to throw away those that cannot fail
+to be pleasant, and as they promised to go with me to Jena, I
+resolved _not_ to be a man of determination, and agreed to stay.
+
+Seldom in the course of my life have I so little regretted any
+resolution as on this occasion, for the following day was by far
+the most delightful that I ever passed in Goethe's house. After an
+early drive, I found old Goethe very cheerful; he began to converse
+on various subjects, passing from the 'Muette de Portici' to Walter
+Scott, and thence to the beauties in Weimar; to the 'Students,'
+and the 'Robbers,' and so on to Schiller; then he spoke on
+uninterruptedly for more than an hour, with the utmost animation,
+about Schiller's life and writings, and his position in Weimar. He
+proceeded to speak of the late Grand-Duke, and of the year 1775,
+which he designated as the intellectual spring of Germany,
+declaring that no man living could describe it so well as he could;
+indeed, it had been his intention to have devoted the second volume
+of his life to this subject; but what with botany, and meteorology,
+and other stuff of the same kind, for which no one cared a straw,
+he had not yet been able to fulfil his purpose. He proceeded to
+relate various anecdotes of the time when he was director of the
+theatre, and when I wished to thank him, he said, "It is mere
+chance, it all comes to light incidentally,--called forth by your
+welcome presence." These words sounded marvellously pleasant to me;
+in short, it was one of those conversations that a man can never
+forget so long as he lives. Next day he made me a present of a
+sheet of the manuscript of 'Faust,' and at the bottom of the page
+he wrote, "To my dear young friend F. M. B., mighty, yet delicate
+master of the piano--a friendly souvenir of happy May days in 1830.
+J. W. von Goethe." He also gave me three letters of introduction to
+take with me.
+
+If that relentless 'Fidelio' did not begin at so early an hour. I
+could tell you much more, but as it is, I have only time to detail
+my farewell interview with the old gentleman. At the very beginning
+of my visit to Weimar, I spoke of a print taken from Adrian von
+Ostade, of a peasant family praying, which nine years ago made a
+deep impression on me. When I went at an early hour to take leave
+of Goethe, I found him seated beside a large portfolio, and he
+said, "So you are actually going away? I must try to keep all right
+till you return; but at all events we won't part now without some
+pious feelings, so let us once more look at the praying family
+together." He told me that I must sometimes write to him--(courage!
+courage! I mean to do so from this very place), and then he
+embraced me, and we drove off to Jena, where the Frommans received
+me with much kindness, and where the same evening I took leave of
+Ottilie and Ulrike, and came on here.
+
+_Nine o'clock._--'Fidelio' is over; and while waiting for supper I
+add a few words.
+
+Schechner is very much gone off; the quality of her voice has
+become husky; she repeatedly sang flat, yet there were moments when
+her expression was so touching, that I wept in my own fashion; all
+the others were bad, and there was also much to censure in the
+performance. Still, there is great talent in the orchestra, and the
+style in which they played the overture was very good. Certainly
+our Germany is a strange land; producing great people, but not
+appreciating them; possessing many fine singers and intellectual
+artists, but none sufficiently modest and subordinate to render
+their parts faithfully, and without false pretension. Marzeline
+introduces all sorts of flourishes into her part; Jaquino is a
+blockhead; the minister a simpleton: and when a German like
+Beethoven writes an opera, then comes a German like Stuntz or
+Poissl (or whoever it may have been) and strikes out the
+ritournelle, and similar unnecessary passages; another German adds
+a trombone part to his symphonies; a third declares that Beethoven
+is overloaded: and thus is a great man sacrificed.
+
+Farewell! be happy and merry; and may all my heartfelt wishes for
+you be fulfilled.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+TO FANNY HENSEL.
+
+     Munich, June 14th, 1830.
+
+     My dearest Sister,
+
+I received your letter of the 5th this morning; I see from it that
+you are not yet quite well. I wish I were with you, and could see
+you, and talk to you; but this is impossible, so I have written a
+song for you expressive of my wishes and thoughts. You were in my
+mind when I composed it, and I was in a tender mood. There is
+indeed nothing very new in it. You know me well, and what I am; in
+no respect am I changed, so you may smile at this and rejoice. I
+could say and wish many other things for you, but none better; and
+this letter too shall contain nothing else. You know that I am
+always your own; and may it please God to bestow on you all that I
+hope and pray.
+
+  [Music]
+
+  [Music]
+
+  [Music]
+
+
+     Linz, August 11th, 1830.
+
+     Dearest Mother,
+
+"How a travelling musician bore his bad luck in Salzburg."
+A fragment from the unwritten journal of Count F. M. B.
+(continuation.) After I had finished my last letter to you, a
+regular day of misfortunes commenced for me. I took up my pencil,
+and so entirely destroyed two of my pet sketches, taken in the
+Bavarian mountains, that I was obliged to tear them from my book,
+and to throw them out of the window. This provoked me exceedingly;
+so to divert my mind, I went to the Capuchin Hill: of course I
+contrived to lose my way, and at the very moment, when I at last
+found myself on the summit, it began to rain so furiously that I
+was forced to run down again with all speed under the shelter of an
+umbrella. Well! I resolved at all events to have a look at the
+monastery at the foot of the hill, so I rang the bell, when I
+suddenly recollected that I had not sufficient money to give the
+monk who was to show the building, and as this is a kind of thing
+that they take highly amiss, I hurried away without waiting till
+the porter appeared.
+
+I then closed my packet of letters for Leipzig, and took it myself
+to the post, but there I was told, that it must first be examined
+at the Custom-house; so thither I went. They kept me waiting a
+whole hour, till they composed a certificate of three lines, and
+behaved so saucily that I was forced to quarrel with them. Hang
+Salzburg! thought I; so I ordered horses for Ischl, where I hoped
+to escape from all my bad luck. No horses were to be had without a
+permission from the police. I went to the police office. "No
+permission can be granted till you bring your passport." Why pursue
+the subject? After innumerable delays, and running about hither and
+thither, the wished-for post-carriage arrived. My dinner was over,
+my luggage ready, and I thought that at last all was in good train:
+my bill and the servants fees were paid.
+
+Just as I reached the door, I saw two handsome open carriages
+approaching at a foot's pace, and the people of the inn hurrying to
+receive the travellers, who were following on foot. I however paid
+no attention to the new arrivals, but jumped into my carriage. I
+observed, that at the same moment, one of the travelling carriages
+drew up close to mine, and that a lady was seated in it,--but what
+a lady! That you may not instantly jump to the conclusion that I
+had suddenly fallen in love, which would have been the crowning
+point of my unlucky day, I must tell you that she was an elderly
+lady; but she looked very amiable and benevolent; she wore a black
+dress, and a massive gold chain, and smiled good-humouredly when
+she paid the postilion his fare. Heaven knows why I continued to
+arrange my luggage instead of driving off. I did look across
+continually at the other carriage, and though the lady was an
+entire stranger to me I felt a strong inclination to address her.
+It might be mere imagination on my part, but I do think that she
+too looked at the dusty traveller in his student's cap. At length
+she got out of the carriage, and stood close to the door of my
+vehicle, leaning her hand on it, and I required all my knowledge of
+the common proprieties of travelling, not to get out myself and say
+to her, "Dear lady, what may your name be?" Routine however
+conquered, and I called out with an air of dignity, "Postilion! go
+on!" on which the lady quickly withdrew her hand, and we set off. I
+felt in no very pleasant humour, and while thinking over the events
+of the day, I fell asleep.
+
+A carriage with two gentlemen passing us, woke me up, and the
+following dialogue ensued between the postilion and myself. _I._
+These gentlemen are coming from Ischl, so I shall probably find no
+horses there. _He._ Oh! the two carriages that stopped at the Inn
+were also from Ischl; still there is no doubt you will get horses.
+_I._ Are you sure they came from Ischl? _He._ Quite sure: they go
+there every year, and were here last summer also; I drove them. It
+is a baroness from Vienna, (Heavens! thought I,) and she is
+dreadfully rich, and has such handsome daughters. When they went to
+Berchtesgaden to visit the mines, I drove them, and very nice they
+looked in their miner's dresses: they have a grand estate, and yet
+they speak to us quite familiarly. Halt! cried I; what name?--Don't
+know.--Pereira?[4]--Not sure.--Drive back,--said I in a resolute
+tone.--If I do, we shall not reach Ischl to-night, and we have got
+over the worst hill; you can learn the name at the next stage.--I
+hesitated, and we drove on. They did not know the name at the next
+stage, nor at the following one either. At length, at the end of
+seven long wearisome hours, we arrived, and before I left the
+carriage, I said, who were the party who drove to Salzburg this
+morning in two carriages? and received the quiet reply,--Baroness
+Pereira; she proceeds to Gastein early to-morrow morning, but
+returns four or five days hence. Now I had arrived at a certainty,
+and I also spoke to her driver, who said that none of the family
+were here. The two gentlemen I met in a carriage on the road, were
+sons of the Baroness (the very two I had never seen). In addition
+to all this, I remembered a wretched portrait that I had once got a
+glimpse of at our aunt H----'s, and the lady in the black dress was
+Baroness Pereira! Heaven knows when I may have another opportunity
+of seeing her! I do not think that she ever could have made a more
+pleasing impression on me, and I shall not assuredly soon forget
+her attractive appearance, and her kind expression of countenance.
+
+  [4] A relation of the family.
+
+Nothing is more unsatisfactory than a presentiment; we all
+experience them, but we never discover till too late, that they
+really were presentiments. I would have returned then and there,
+and travelled through the night, but I reflected that I should only
+overtake her at the very moment of her departure, or that possibly
+she might have left Salzburg before my arrival, and that I should
+thus frustrate all the plan of my journey to Vienna. At one moment
+I thought of going to Gastein, but I could not help feeling that
+Salzburg had treated me very badly, so I once more said adieu, and
+went to bed very crest-fallen. Next morning I desired that her
+empty house should be pointed out to me, and made a sketch of it
+for you, dear mother. My bad luck, however, was still growling in
+the distance, for I could find no favourable spot to take my sketch
+from. Besides, they charged me more than a ducat at the inn for
+one night's entertainment, etc., etc. I gave utterance to various
+anathemas, both in English and German, and drove away, laying aside
+among the things of the past, Ischl, Salzburg, Baroness Pereira,
+and the Traunsee; and so I came on here, where I have taken a day's
+rest.
+
+To-morrow I intend to pursue my journey, and (D. V.) to sleep in
+Vienna the day after. I will write to you further from thence. Thus
+ended my day of misfortunes; "truth, and _no_ poetry," not even the
+leaning the hand against the door of my carriage is invention; all
+is a portrait taken from life. The most incomprehensible thing is
+that I should have totally overlooked Flora, who it seems was also
+there, for the old lady in a tartan cloak, who went into the inn,
+was Frau von W----, and the old gentleman with green spectacles who
+followed her, could not well have been Flora? In short, when things
+once take a wrong turn, they will have their course. I can write no
+more to-day, for my disappointment is still too recent; in my next
+letter I will describe the Salzkammergut, and all the beauties of
+my journey yesterday. How right Devrient was to advise me to take
+this route! The Traunstein also, and the Traun Falls, are
+wonderfully fine; and after all, the world is a very pleasant
+world, and it is fortunate for me that you are in it, and that I
+shall find letters from you the day after to-morrow, and possibly
+much that is agreeable besides. Dear Fanny, I mean now to compose
+my _Non nobis_, and the symphony in A minor. Dear Rebecca, if you
+could hear me singing "Im warmen Thal" in a spasmodic fashion, you
+would think it rather deplorable; you could sing it better. Oh,
+Paul! can you declare that you understand the Schein Gulden, W. W.
+Gulden, heavy Gulden, light Gulden, Conventions Gulden, and the
+devil and his grandmother's Gulden? I don't, one bit. I wish
+therefore that you were with me, but for many reasons besides this
+one. Farewell!
+
+
+     Presburg, September 27th, 1830.
+
+     Dear Brother,
+
+Peals of bells, drums and music, carriages on carriages, people
+hurrying in all directions, everywhere gay crowds, such is the
+general aspect around me, for to-morrow is to be the coronation of
+the King, which the whole city has been expecting since yesterday,
+and are now imploring that the sky may clear up, and wake bright
+and cheerful, for the grand ceremony which ought to have taken
+place yesterday was obliged to be deferred on account of the
+torrents of rain. This afternoon the sky is blue and beautiful, and
+the moon is now shining down tranquilly on the tumult of the city.
+To-morrow at a very early hour the Crown Prince is to take his
+oaths (as King of Hungary) in the large Market-place; he is then to
+go to church in grand procession, attended by a whole array of
+bishops and nobles of the realm, and afterwards rides up the
+Königsberg, which lies opposite my windows, in order to wave his
+sword towards the banks of the Danube and the four quarters of the
+globe, in token that he takes possession of his new realm.
+
+This excursion has made me acquainted with a new country; for
+Hungary with her magnates, her high dignitaries, her Oriental
+luxury, and also her barbarism, is to be seen here, and the streets
+offer a spectacle which is to me both novel and striking. We really
+seem here to approach closer to the East; the miserably obtuse
+peasants or serfs; the troops of gipsies; the equipages and
+retainers of the nobles overloaded with gold and gems, (for the
+grandees themselves are only visible through the closed windows of
+their carriages); then the singularly bold national physiognomy,
+the yellow hue, the long moustaches, the soft foreign idiom--all
+this makes the most motley impression in the world.
+
+Early yesterday I went alone through the streets. First came a long
+array of jovial officers, on spirited little horses; behind them a
+crew of gipsies, making music; succeeded by Vienna fashionables,
+with eye-glasses and kid gloves, conversing with a Capuchin monk;
+then a couple of uncivilized peasants in long white coats, their
+hats pressed down on their foreheads, and their straight black hair
+cut even all round, (they have reddish-brown complexions, a languid
+gait, and an indescribable expression of savage stupidity and
+indifference); then came a couple of sharp, acute-looking students
+of theology, in their long blue coats, walking arm-in-arm;
+Hungarian proprietors in their dark blue national costume; court
+servants; and numbers of carriages every moment arriving, covered
+with mud. I followed the crowd as they slowly moved on up the hill,
+and so at last I arrived at the dilapidated castle, which commands
+an extensive view of the whole city and the Danube. People were
+looking down on all sides from the ancient white walls, and from
+the towers and balconies; in every corner boys were scribbling
+their names on the walls for the benefit of posterity; in a small
+chamber (perhaps once on a time a chapel, or a sleeping-apartment)
+an ox was in the act of being roasted whole, and as it turned on
+the spit, the people shouted with delight; a succession of cannons
+bristled before the castle, destined to bellow forth their
+appropriate thunders at the coronation.
+
+Below, on the Danube, which runs very rapidly here, darting with
+the speed of an arrow through the pontoon bridge, lay a new
+steamer, that had just arrived, laden with strangers; then the
+extensive view of the flat but wooded country, and meadows
+overflowed by the Danube; of the embankments and streets swarming
+with human beings, and mountains clothed with Hungarian vines--all
+this was not a little strange and foreign. Then the pleasant
+contrast of living in the same house with the best and most
+friendly people in the world, and finding novelty doubly
+interesting in their society. These were really among the happy
+days, dear brother, that a kind Providence so often and so richly
+bestows on me.
+
+
+     September 28th, one o'clock.
+
+The King is crowned--the ceremony was wonderfully fine. How can I
+even try to describe it to you? An hour hence we will all drive
+back to Vienna, and thence I pursue my journey. There is a
+tremendous uproar under my windows, and the Burgher-guards are
+flocking together, but only for the purpose of shouting "_Vivat!_"
+I pushed my way through the crowd, while our ladies saw everything
+from the windows, and never can I forget the effect of all this
+brilliant and almost fabulous magnificence.
+
+In the great square of the Hospitallers the people were closely
+packed together, for there the oaths were to be taken on a platform
+hung with cloth; and afterwards the people were to be allowed the
+privilege of tearing down the cloth for their own use; close by was
+a fountain spouting red and white Hungarian wine. The grenadiers
+could not keep back the people; one unlucky hackney coach that
+stopped for a moment was instantly covered with men, who clambered
+on the spokes of the wheels, and on the roof, and on the box,
+swarming on it like ants, so that the coachman, unable to drive on
+without becoming a murderer, was forced to wait quietly where he
+was. When the procession arrived, which was received bare-headed, I
+had the utmost difficulty in taking off my hat, and holding it
+above my head; an old Hungarian, however, behind me, whose view it
+intercepted, quickly devised a remedy, for without ceremony he made
+a snatch at my unlucky hat, and in an instant flattened it to the
+size of a cap; then they yelled as if they had all been spitted,
+and fought for the cloth; in short they were a mob; but my Magyars!
+the fellows look as if they were born noblemen, and privileged to
+live at ease, looking very melancholy, but riding like the devil.
+
+When the procession descended the hill, first came the court
+servants, covered with embroidery, the trumpeters and kettle drums,
+the heralds and all that class, and then suddenly galloped along
+the street a mad Count, _en pleine carrière_, his horse plunging
+and capering, and the caparisons edged with gold; the Count himself
+a mass of diamonds, rare herons' plumes, and velvet embroidery
+(though he had not yet assumed his state uniform, being bound to
+ride so madly--Count Sandor is the name of this furious cavalier.)
+He had an ivory sceptre in his hand with which he urged on his
+horse, causing it each time to rear, and to make a tremendous bound
+forward.
+
+When his wild career was over, a procession of about sixty more
+magnates arrived, all in the same fantastic splendour, with
+handsome coloured turbans, twisted moustaches, and dark eyes. One
+rode a white horse covered with a gold net; another a dark grey,
+the bridle and housings studded with diamonds; then came a black
+charger with purple cloth caparisons. One magnate was attired from
+head to foot in sky blue, thickly embroidered with gold, a white
+turban, and a long white dolman; another in cloth of gold, with a
+purple dolman; each one more rich and gaudy than the other, and all
+riding so boldly and fearlessly, and with such defiant gallantry,
+that it was quite a pleasure to look at them. At length came the
+Hungarian Guards, with Esterhazy at their head, dazzling in gems
+and pearl embroidery. How can I describe the scene? You ought to
+have seen the procession deploy and halt in the spacious square,
+and all the jewels and bright colours, and the lofty golden mitres
+of the bishops, and the crucifixes glittering in the brilliant
+sunshine like a thousand stars!
+
+Well, to-morrow, God willing, I proceed on my journey. Now, dear
+brother, you have a letter, so pray write soon, and let me hear how
+you are getting on. So you have had an _émeute_ in Berlin? and
+that, too, an _émeute_ of tailors' apprentices? What did it all
+mean? Once more I send you my farewell from Germany, my dear
+parents, and brother and sisters. I am leaving Hungary for Italy,
+and thence I hope to write to you more frequently and more at
+leisure. Be of good cheer, dear Paul, and go forwards in a
+confident spirit; rejoice with those that rejoice, and do not
+forget the brother who is wandering about the world.
+
+     Yours, FELIX.
+
+
+     Venice, October 10th, 1830.
+
+Italy at last! and what I have all my life considered as the
+greatest possible felicity, is now begun, and I am basking in it.
+The day has been so fruitful in enjoyment, that I must, now that it
+is evening, endeavour to collect my thoughts a little to write to
+you, my dear parents, and to thank you for having bestowed such
+happiness on me. You also, my dear brother and sisters, are often
+in my thoughts. How much I wish for you, Paul, to be with me here,
+once more to enjoy your delight in our rapid travels by sea and by
+land; and I should like to prove to you, Hensel, that the
+"Assumption of the Blessed Virgin" is the most divine work ever
+produced by the hands of man. You are not here, however, so I am
+obliged to give vent to my enthusiasm in bad Italian to the
+_laquais de place_, who stands still and listens.
+
+I shall however become quite confused, if things are to go on as
+they have done on this first day, when every hour brought with it
+so much never to be forgotten, that I do not know where to find
+sufficient grasp of intellect to comprehend it all properly. I saw
+the "Assumption," then a whole gallery of paintings in the Manfrini
+Palace; then a church festival in the church where hangs Titian's
+St. Peter; afterwards St. Mark's, and in the afternoon I had a row
+on the Adriatic, and visited the public gardens, where the people
+lie on the grass and eat. I then returned to the Piazza of St.
+Mark, where in the twilight there is always an immense crowd and
+crush of people; and all this I was obliged to see to-day, because
+there is so much that is novel and interesting to be seen
+to-morrow.
+
+But I must now relate methodically how I came hither by water,
+(for, as Telemachus says, to do so by land would be no easy
+matter,) and so I begin my history at Gratz, which is certainly the
+most tiresome hole in the world, and where you yawn all day; and
+why should I have stayed a single day longer, on account of a (he)
+relation? How can a traveller with any experience possibly accept
+of a brother, who is also an ensign, in the place of a charming
+mother and sister? In short, the man did not know what to do with
+me, for which I forgive him freely, and shall not defame him to his
+mother, when I perform my promise and write to her; but he took me
+to the theatre to see the "Rehbock," the most wretched, silly,
+objectionable piece that the late Kotzebue ever wrote; and moreover
+he declared it to be very good and very amusing, and this is not to
+be forgiven, for this _Rehbock_ has such a _haut goût_ or _fumet_,
+that it could not even please a cat: but at all events I have left
+Gratz, for here I am in Venice.
+
+My old vetturino woke me up at four o'clock in the dark, and the
+horse crawled off with us both. I thought of you, dear father, at
+least a hundred times during our journey of two days. You would
+certainly have gone wild with impatience, and possibly assaulted
+the coachman also, for at every little declivity, he got slowly off
+the box, deliberately put on the drag, and crept up the smallest
+hill at a snail's pace; then he thought fit to walk beside his
+horses for a time, to stretch his legs: every possible conveyance
+passed us on the road, even when drawn by dogs or donkeys, and when
+at last, at a steep hill, the fellow put on two oxen as leaders,
+whose pace exactly corresponded with that of his horse, I had the
+greatest difficulty in not belabouring him, indeed I did so more
+than once; but he then gravely assured me that we were going at a
+capital pace, and I had no means of proving the contrary. Moreover
+he always passed the night in the most detestable pot-houses,
+starting again at four o'clock in the morning, so on arriving at
+Klagenfurt I was fairly worn out; but when in answer to my question
+as to the time the Venetian diligence set out, I received the
+answer,--in an hour hence,--I seemed to revive. I was promised a
+place, and I also got a good supper. The diligence, indeed, did not
+arrive for two hours after its time, having been detained by deep
+snow on the Sömmering, but still it came at last. Three Italians
+were inside, and chattered so that I could scarcely get to sleep,
+but my snoring fairly silenced them after a time.
+
+At last morning broke, and as we drove into Resciutta, the driver
+said, that on the other side of the bridge there, no one understood
+a word of German. I therefore took leave of my mother tongue for a
+long time to come, and we drove over the bridge. The style of the
+houses immediately beyond was entirely different. The flat roofs
+with their convex tiles, the deep windows, the high white walls,
+and lofty square towers, all betokened another land. The pale olive
+faces of the men, the innumerable beggars who besieged the
+carriage, the various small chapels, brightly and carefully painted
+on every side with flowers, the nuns, monks, and so forth, were all
+symptomatic of Italy. The monotonous character of the whole scenery
+however, and of the road we were travelling, passing through bare
+white rocks, along the banks of a river with a rough rocky bed, in
+summer creeping along in the form of a tiny brook, certainly does
+not seem characteristic of Italy. "I purposely made this passage
+rather meagre, in order that the _subject_ might be more distinctly
+heard," says Abt Vogler; and I almost think that Providence has
+done pretty much the same here, for when we had passed Ospedaletto
+the _subject_ did come out well, and a fine sight it was. I had
+imagined that the first impression of Italy would be like that of a
+sudden explosion, violent and startling; I have not hitherto found
+this to be the case. The effect produced on me has been rather that
+of a genial warmth, mildness and cheerfulness, and an indescribable
+sensation of pervading content and satisfaction.
+
+After passing Ospedaletto we entered a plain, leaving the blue
+mountains behind us; the sun shone bright and warm through the
+foliage of the vines; the road winding through orchards, in which
+the trees were connected by trailing boughs. I felt as if I were
+at home again, and knew every object, and was once more about to
+take possession of it all. The carriage too seemed to _fly_ over
+the smooth road, and towards evening we arrived at Udine, where we
+passed the night, when for the first time I ordered my supper in
+Italian, my tongue skating as if on slippery ice, first gliding
+into English, and then stumbling afresh. Moreover next morning I
+was famously cheated, but I did not in the least care, and on we
+went. It happened to be Sunday, and on every side people were
+coming along, in bright southern costumes, and flowers; the women
+with roses in their hair. Light single-horse carriages drove past,
+and men were riding to church on donkeys; at the inns, groups of
+idlers were to be seen in the most picturesque, indolent attitudes:
+among others, one man placed his arm quietly round his wife's
+waist, and swung round with her and then they went on their way;
+this sounds trivial enough, and yet it had a pretty effect.
+Venetian villas now were occasionally visible from the road, and by
+degrees became more frequent, till at length our way led past
+houses, trees, and gardens like a park. The whole country had a gay
+festive air, as if a Prince were expected to make his grand entry,
+and the vine-branches with their rich purple grapes hanging in
+festoons from the trees, made the most lovely of all festive
+wreaths. The inhabitants were all gaily dressed and adorned, and a
+few scattered cypresses only enhanced the general effect.
+
+In Treviso there was an illumination, paper lanterns suspended in
+every part of the great square, and a large gaudy transparency in
+the centre. Some most lovely girls were walking about, in their
+long white veils and scarlet petticoats. It was quite dark when we
+arrived at Mestre last night, when we got into a boat, and in a
+dead calm, gently rowed across to Venice. On our passage thither,
+where nothing but water is to be seen, and distant lights, we saw a
+small rock which stands in the midst of the sea; on this a lamp was
+burning; all the sailors took off their hats as we passed, and one
+of them said, this was the "Madonna of Tempests," which are often
+most dangerous and violent here. We then glided quietly into the
+great city, under innumerable bridges, without sound of post-horns,
+or rattling of wheels, or toll-keepers; the passage now became more
+thronged, and numbers of ships were lying near; past the theatre,
+where gondolas in long rows lie waiting for their masters, just as
+our own carriages do at home, then into the great canal, past the
+church of St. Mark, the Lions, the palace of the Doges, and the
+Bridge of Sighs. The obscurity of night only enhanced my delight on
+hearing the familiar names, and seeing the dark outlines.
+
+And so I am actually in Venice! Well, to-day I have seen the finest
+pictures in the world, and have at last personally made the
+acquaintance of a very admirable man, whom hitherto I only knew by
+name--I allude to a certain Signor Giorgione, an inimitable
+artist--and also to Pordenone, who paints the most noble
+portraits, both of himself and many of his simple scholars, in such
+a devout, faithful, and pious spirit, that you seem to converse
+with him, and to feel an affection for him. Who would not have been
+confused by all this? But if I am to speak of Titian, I must do so
+in a more reverent mood. Till now, I never knew that he was the
+felicitous artist I have this day seen him to be. That he
+thoroughly enjoyed life, in all its beauty and fulness, the picture
+in Paris proves; but he has fathomed the depths of human sorrow, as
+well as the joys of Heaven. His glorious "Entombment," and also the
+"Assumption," fully evince this. How Mary floats on the cloud,
+while a waving movement seems to pervade the whole picture; how you
+see at a glance her very breathing, her awe, and piety, and in
+short a thousand feelings,--all words seem poor and commonplace in
+comparison! The three angels too, on the right of the picture, are
+of the highest order of beauty,--pure, serene loveliness, so
+unconscious, so bright and so seraphic. But no more of this! or I
+must perforce become poetical, or indeed am so already, and this
+does not at all suit me; but I shall certainly see it every day.
+
+I must however say a few words about the "Entombment," as you have
+the engraving. Look at it, and think of me. This picture represents
+the conclusion of a great tragedy: so still, so grand, and so
+acutely painful. Magdalene is supporting Mary, fearing that she
+will die of anguish; she endeavours to lead her away, but looks
+round herself once more, evidently wishing to imprint this
+spectacle indelibly on her heart, thinking that it is for the last
+time; it surpasses everything; and then the sorrowing John, who
+sympathizes and suffers with Mary; and Joseph, who absorbed in his
+piety, and occupied with the tomb, directs and conducts the whole;
+and Christ himself, lying there so tranquil, having endured to the
+end: then the blaze of brilliant colour, and the gloomy mottled
+sky! It is a composition that speaks to my heart and fills me with
+enthusiasm, and will never leave my memory.
+
+I believe few things I have yet to see in Italy will affect me so
+deeply; but you know that I am devoid of all prejudices, and I give
+you a fresh proof of this by telling you that the "Martyrdom of St.
+Peter," from which I expected the most, pleased me the least of the
+three; it did not strike me as being a complete whole; the
+landscape, which is very fine, seemed to me to predominate
+too much. Then I was dissatisfied with the disposition in the
+picture of _two_ victims and only _one_ murderer; (for the small
+figure inthe distant background does not remedy this). I could
+not bring myself to consider it a martyrdom. But probably I am
+in error, and I intend to study it more carefully to-morrow; my
+contemplation of it, besides, was disturbed by some one strumming most
+sacrilegiously on the organ, and these sacred forms were forced to
+listen to such miserable opera _finales_! But this matters not:
+where such pictures are, I require no organist. I play the organ in
+my thoughts for myself, and feel as little irritated by such trash
+as I should be by an ignorant rabble. Titian, however, was a man
+well adapted to improve others; so I shall try to profit by him,
+and to rejoice that I am in Italy. At this moment the gondoliers
+are shouting to each other, and the lights are reflected in the
+depths of the waters; one is playing a guitar, and singing to it.
+It is a charming night. Farewell! and think of me in every happy
+hour as I do of you.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+TO PROFESSOR ZELTER.[5]
+
+     Venice, October 16th, 1830.
+
+     Dear Professor,
+
+I have entered Italy at last, and I intend this letter to be the
+commencement of a regular series of reports, which I purpose
+transmitting to you, of all that appears to me particularly worthy
+of notice. Though I only now for the first time write to you, I
+must beg you to impute the blame to the state of constant
+excitement in which I lived, both in Munich and in Vienna. It was
+needless for me to describe to you the parties in Munich, which I
+attended every evening, and where I played the piano more
+unremittingly than I ever did in my life before; one _soirée_
+succeeding another so closely, that I really had not a moment to
+collect my thoughts. Moreover, it would not have particularly
+interested you, for after all, "good society which does not offer
+materials for the smallest epigram," is equally vapid in a letter.
+I hope that you have not taken amiss my long silence, and that I
+may expect a few lines from you, even if they contain nothing save
+that you are well and cheerful.
+
+  [5] Mendelssohn's instructor in the theory of music.
+
+The aspect of the world at this moment is very bleak and stormy,
+and much that was once thought durable and unchangeable, has been
+swept away in the course of a couple of days. It is then doubly
+welcome to hear well-known voices, to convince us that there are
+certain things which cannot be annihilated or demolished, but
+remain firm and steadfast. You must know that I am at this moment
+very uneasy at not having received any news from home for some
+weeks past. I found no letters from my family, either at Trieste or
+here, so a few lines from you, written in your old fashion, would
+both cheer and gratify me, especially as it would prove that you
+think of me with the same kindness that you have always done from
+my childhood to the present time.
+
+My family have no doubt told you of the exhilarating impression
+made on me by the first sight of the plains of Italy. I hurry from
+one enjoyment to another hour by hour, and constantly see something
+novel and fresh; but immediately on my arrival I discovered some
+masterpieces of art, which I study with deep attention, and
+contemplate daily for a couple of hours at least. These are three
+pictures by Titian. The "Presentation of Mary as a Child in the
+Temple;" the "Assumption of the Virgin;" and the "Entombment of
+Christ." There is also a portrait by Giorgione, representing a girl
+with a cithern in her hand, plunged in thought, and looking forth
+from the picture in serious meditation (she is apparently about to
+begin a song, and you feel as if you must do the same): besides
+many others.
+
+To see these alone would be worth a journey to Venice; for the
+fruitfulness, genius, and devotion of the great men who painted
+these pictures, seem to emanate from them afresh as often as you
+gaze at their works, and I do not much regret that I have scarcely
+heard any music here; for I suppose I must not venture to include
+the music of the angels, in the "Assumption," encircling Mary with
+joyous shouts of welcome; one gaily beating the tambourine, a
+couple of others blowing away on strange crooked flutes, while
+another charming group are singing--or the music floating in the
+thoughts of the cithern player. I have only once heard anything on
+the organ, and miserable it was. I was gazing at Titian's
+"Martyrdom of St. Peter" in the Franciscan Church. Divine service
+was going on, and nothing inspires me with more solemn awe than
+when on the very spot for which they were originally created and
+painted, those ancient pictures in all their grandeur, gradually
+steal forth out of the darkness in which the long lapse of time has
+veiled them.
+
+As I was earnestly contemplating the enchanting evening landscape
+with its trees, and angels among the boughs, the organ commenced.
+The first sound was quite in harmony with my feelings; but the
+second, third, and in fact all the rest, quickly roused me from my
+reveries, and sent me straight home, for the man was playing in
+church and during divine service, and in the presence of
+respectable people, thus:
+
+  [Music]
+
+with the "Martyrdom of St. Peter" actually close beside him! I was
+therefore in no great hurry to make the acquaintance of the
+organist. There is no regular Opera here at this moment, and the
+gondoliers no longer sing, Tasso's stanzas; moreover, what I have
+hitherto seen of modern Venetian art, consists of poems framed and
+glazed on the subject of Titian's pictures, or Rinaldo and Armida,
+by a new Venetian painter, or a St. Cecilia by a ditto, besides
+various specimens of architecture in no style at all; as all these
+are totally insignificant, I cling to the ancient masters, and
+study how they worked. Often, after doing so, I feel a musical
+inspiration, and since I came here I have been busily engaged in
+composition.
+
+Before I left Vienna, a friend of mine made me a present of
+Luther's Hymns, and on reading them over I was again so much struck
+by their power, that I intend to compose music for several next
+winter. I have nearly completed here the choral "Aus tiefer Noth,"
+for four voices _a capella_; and the Christmas hymn, "Vom Himmel
+hoch," is already in my head. I wish also to set the following
+hymns to music: "Ach Gott, vom Himmel sieh darein," "Wir glauben
+all' an einen Gott," "Verleih uns Frieden," "Mitten wir im Leben
+sind," and finally "Ein' feste Burg." The latter, however, it is my
+intention to compose for a choir and orchestra. Pray write to me
+about this project of mine, and say whether you approve of my
+retaining the ancient melodies in them all, but not adhering to
+them too strictly: for instance, if I were to take the first verse
+of "Vom Himmel hoch" as a separate grand chorus. Besides this, I am
+hard at work at an orchestral overture, and if an opportunity for
+an opera offered it would be most welcome.
+
+I finished two pieces of sacred music in Vienna--a choral in three
+movements for chorus and orchestra ("O! Haupt voll Blut und
+Wunden") and an Ave Maria for a choir of eight voices, _a capella_.
+The people I associated with there were so dissipated and
+frivolous, that I became quite spiritually-minded, and conducted
+myself like a divine among them. Moreover, not one of the best
+pianoforte players there, male or female, ever played a note of
+Beethoven, and when I hinted that he and Mozart were not to be
+despised, they said, "So you are an admirer of classical
+music?"--"Yes," said I.
+
+To-morrow I intend to go to Bologna to have a glance at the St.
+Cecilia, and then proceed by Florence to Rome, where I hope (D. V.)
+to arrive eight or ten days hence. I will then write to you more
+satisfactorily. I only wished to make a beginning to-day, and to
+beg you not to forget me, and kindly to accept my heartfelt wishes
+for your health and happiness. Your faithful
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Florence, October 23rd, 1830.
+
+Here am I in Florence, the air warm and the sky bright; everything
+is beautiful and glorious, "wo blieb die Erde," as Goethe says. I
+have now received your letter of the 3rd, by which I see that you
+are all well, that my anxiety was needless, that you are all going
+on as usual, and thinking of me; so I feel happy again, and can
+now see everything, and enjoy everything, and am able to write to
+you; in short, my mind is at rest on the main point. I made my
+journey here amid a thousand doubts and fears, quite uncertain
+whether to go direct to Rome, because I did not expect any letters
+at Florence. Fortunately, however, I decided on coming here, and
+now it is of no consequence how the misunderstanding arose, that
+caused me to wait for letters in Venice, while you had written to
+Florence; all I can promise is to endeavour in future to be less
+over-anxious. My driver pointed out a spot between the hills, on
+which lay a blue mist, and said "_Ecco Firenze!_" I eagerly looked
+towards the place, and saw the round dome looming out of the mist
+before me, and the spacious wide valley in which the city is
+situated. My love of travel revived when at last Florence appeared.
+I looked at some willow-trees (as I thought) beside the road, when
+the driver said, "Buon olio," and then I saw that they were hanging
+full of olives.
+
+My driver, as a genus, is undoubtedly a most villanous knave,
+thief, and impostor; he has cheated me and half-starved me, and yet
+I think him almost amiable from his enthusiastic animal nature.
+About an hour before we arrived in Florence he said that the
+beautiful scenery was now about to commence; and true it is that
+the fair land of Italy does first begin then. There are villas on
+every height, and decorated old walls, with sloping terraces of
+roses and aloes, flowers and grapes and olive leaves, the sharp
+points of cypresses, and the flat tops of pines, all sharply
+defined against the sky; then handsome square faces, busy life on
+the roads on every side, and at a distance in the valley, the blue
+city.
+
+So I drove confidently into Florence in my little open carriage,
+and though I looked shabby and dusty, like one coming from the
+Apennines, I cared little for that. I passed recklessly through all
+the smart equipages from which the most refined English ladies
+looked at me; while I thought it may one day actually come to pass
+that you who are now looking down on the _roturier_, may shake
+hands with him, the only difference being a little clean linen and
+so forth. By the time that we came to the _battisterio_, I no
+longer felt diffident, but gave orders to drive to the Post, and
+then I was really happy, for I received three letters,--yours of
+the 22nd and the 3rd, and my father's also. I was now quite
+delighted, and as we drove along beside the Arno, to Schneider's
+celebrated hotel, the world seemed once more a very pleasant world.
+
+
+     October 24th.
+
+The Apennines are really not so beautiful as I had imagined; for
+the name always suggested to me richly wooded, picturesque hills,
+covered with vegetation, whereas they are merely a long chain of
+melancholy bleak hills; and the little verdure there is, not
+gratifying to the eye. There are no dwellings to be seen, no merry
+brooks or rills; only an occasional stream, its broad bed dried up,
+or a little water-channel. Add to this the shameful roguery of the
+inhabitants: really, at last, I became quite confused and
+perplexed, by their incessant cheating, and could scarcely discover
+for what object they were lying. I therefore, once for all,
+invariably protested against every demand they made, and declared
+that I would not pay at all if they asked more than I chose to
+give; so in this way I managed very tolerably.
+
+Last night I was again in grand quarters: I had made an agreement
+with the vetturino for board and lodging, and all I required. The
+natural consequence was, that the fellow took me to the most
+detestable little inns, and actually starved me. So late yesterday
+we arrived at a solitary pothouse, the filth of which no pen can
+describe. The stair was strewed with heaps of dead leaves and
+firewood; moreover the cold was intense, and they invited me to
+warm myself in the kitchen, which I agreed to do. A bench was
+placed for me beside the fire; a whole troop of peasants were
+standing about, also warming themselves. I looked quite regal from
+my bench on the hearth among this rough set of fellows, who, in
+their broad-leaved hats, lit up by the fire, and babbling in their
+incomprehensible dialect, looked vastly suspicious characters. I
+made them prepare my soup under my own eyes, giving moreover good
+advice on the subject; but, after all, it was not eatable.
+
+I entered into conversation with my subjects from my throne on the
+hearth, and they pointed out to me a little hill in the distance
+incessantly vomiting forth flames, which had a singular effect in
+the dark ("Raticosa" is the name of the hill), and then I was
+conducted to my bed-room. The landlord took hold of the sackcloth
+sheets, and said, "Very fine linen!" but I slept as sound as a
+bear, and before falling asleep I said to myself, Now you are in
+the Apennines: and next morning, after getting no breakfast, my
+vetturino civilly asked me how I liked my night's entertainment.
+The fellow talked a great deal of nonsense about politics, and the
+present state of France, abused his horse in German for being born
+in Switzerland, and spoke French to the beggars who swarmed round
+the cabriolet, while I corrected many a fault in his pronunciation.
+
+
+     October 25th.
+
+I now intend to go once more to the Tribune, to be inspired with
+feelings of reverence. There is a particular place where I like to
+sit, as the little Venus de' Medici is directly opposite, and
+above, that of Titian, and by turning rather to the left, I have a
+view of the Madonna del Cardello, a favourite picture of mine, and
+which invariably reminds me of _la belle Jardinière_, and seems to
+me a kindred creation; and also the Fornarina, which made no great
+impression on me from the first, for I know the engraving, which is
+very faithful, and the face has, I think, a most disagreeable and
+even ordinary expression. In gazing thus, however, at the two
+Venuses, their loveliness inspires a feeling of piety; it is as if
+the two spirits who could produce such creations, were flying
+through the hall and grasping you as they passed.
+
+Titian must have been a marvellous man, and enjoyed his life in his
+works; still the fair Medici is not to be slighted, and then the
+divine Niobe with all her children: while we gaze at her, we can
+find no words. I have not yet been to the Pitti Palace, which
+possesses the Saint Ezekiel, and the Madonna della Sedia, of
+Raphael. I saw the gardens of the palace yesterday in sunshine;
+they are superb, and the thick solid stems of the myrtles and
+laurels, and the innumerable cypresses, made a strange exotic
+impression on me; but when I declare that I consider beeches,
+limes, oaks, and firs, ten times more beautiful and picturesque, I
+think I hear Hensel exclaim, "Oh, the northern bear!"
+
+
+     October 30th.
+
+After the soft rain of yesterday, the air is so mild and genial,
+that I am at this moment seated at the open window writing to you;
+and indeed it is pleasant enough to see the people going about the
+streets, offering the prettiest baskets of flowers, fresh violets,
+roses, and pinks. Two days ago, being satiated with all pictures,
+statues, vases, and museums, I resolved to take a long walk till
+sunset; so after buying a bunch of narcissuses and heliotropes, I
+went up the hill through the vineyards. It was one of the most
+delightful walks I ever remember; every one must feel revived and
+refreshed at the sight of nature in such a garb as this, and a
+thousand happy thoughts passed through my mind.
+
+First of all, I went to a villa called Bello Sguardo, whence the
+whole of Florence and its spacious valley are to be seen, and I
+thoroughly enjoyed the view of the superb city and its massive
+towers and palaces. But most of all I admired the countless villas,
+covering every hill and every acclivity as far as the eye can
+reach, as if the city extended beyond the mountains into the far
+distance. And when I took up a telescope and looked down on the
+valley through the blue mists, every portion of it seemed thickly
+dotted with bright objects and white villas, while such a large
+circle of dwellings inspired me with a feeling of home and comfort.
+
+I proceeded far over the hills to the highest point I could see, on
+which stood an ancient tower, and when I reached it I found all the
+people throughout the building busily engaged in making wine,
+drying grapes, and repairing casks. It proved to be Galileo's
+tower, from which he used to make his discoveries and observations;
+from here also there was a very extensive view, and the girl who
+took me to the roof of the tower related a number of stories in her
+peculiar dialect, which I scarcely understood at all; but she
+afterwards presented me with some of her sweet dried grapes, which
+I ate with great gusto. And so I went on to another tower I saw at
+a distance, but could not manage to find my way; and examining my
+map as I went along, I stumbled on a traveller busily searching
+his map also; the only difference between us being, that he was an
+old Frenchman with green spectacles, who addressed me thus, "È
+questo S. Miniato al Monte, Signor?" With admirable decision I
+replied, "Sì, Signor;" and it turned out that I was right. A. F----
+immediately recurred to my memory, as she had advised me to see
+this monastery, which is indeed wonderfully fine.
+
+When I tell you I went from there to the Boboli Gardens, where I
+saw the sun set, and at night enjoyed the brightest moonlight, you
+may imagine how much I was invigorated by my ramble. I will write
+to you about the pictures here some other time, for to-day it is
+too late, as I have still to take leave of the Pitti Palace and the
+great Gallery, and to gaze once more at my Venus, who is not indeed
+mentioned before ladies, but whose beauty is truly divine. The
+courier goes at five o'clock, and God willing, I shall be in Rome
+the day after to-morrow. From thence you shall hear again.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, November 2nd, 1830.
+
+... I refrain from writing longer in this melancholy strain; for
+just as your letter, after a lapse of fourteen days, has saddened
+me, my answer will have the same effect on you fourteen days hence.
+You would write to me in the same style, and so it might go on for
+ever. As four weeks must pass before I can receive any answer, I
+feel that I ought to restrict myself to relating events past and
+present, and not dwell much on the particular frame of my mind at
+the moment, which is indeed usually sufficiently manifest in the
+narrative given, and the various occurrences described.
+
+I have scarcely yet arrived at the conviction that I am now
+actually in Rome; and when yesterday, just as day was breaking, I
+drove across a bridge with statues, under a deep blue sky, and in
+dazzling white moonlight, and the courier said, "Ponte Molle," it
+all seemed to me like a dream, and at the same moment I saw before
+me my sick-bed in London a year ago, and my rough Scotch journey,
+and Munich, and Vienna, and the pines on these hills. The journey
+from Florence to Rome has very few attractions. Siena, which is, I
+understand worth seeing, we passed through during the night. It was
+unpleasant to see a regular Government courier compelled to take a
+military escort, which was doubled at night; still it must be
+absolutely necessary, as he is obliged to pay for it. In these days
+this ought not to be the case. In the meantime everything
+progresses, and there are moments when the bound forwards is
+actually visible.
+
+I was still in Florence, waiting for the departure of the post,
+reading a French newspaper, when at the very moment the bell
+sounded, I read among the advertisements, "Vie de Siebenkäs, par
+Jean Paul." Many reflections occurred to me as to so many men of
+renown gradually vanishing from our sight, and our great geniuses
+having such homage paid to them after their death, and yet during
+their _life_, Lafontaine's novels and French vaudevilles alone make
+any impression on their fellow-countrymen; while _we_ only strive
+to appreciate the very refuse of the French, and neglect
+Beaumarchais and Rousseau. However, it matters little after all.
+
+The first thing connected with music that I met with here, was the
+"Tod Jesu," by Graun, which an Abbate here, Fortunato Santini, has
+translated faithfully and admirably into Italian. It appears that
+the music of this heretic has been sent along with the translation
+to Naples, where it is to be produced this winter at a great
+festival, and I hear that the musical world there are quite
+enchanted with it, and are studying the work with infinite love and
+enthusiasm. I understand that the Abbate has been long impatiently
+expecting me, because he hopes to obtain considerable information
+from me about German music, and thinks I may also have the score of
+Bach's "Passion." Thus music progresses onwards, as sure to pierce
+through as the sun; if mists still prevail, it is merely a sign
+that the spring-time has not yet come, but come again it must and
+will! Farewell! and from my heart I say,--May a merciful Providence
+preserve you all in health and happiness!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, November 8th, 1830.
+
+I must now write to you of my first week in Rome; how I have
+arranged my time, how I look forward to the winter, and what
+impression the glorious objects by which I am surrounded have made
+on me; but this is no easy task. I feel as if I were entirely
+changed since I came here. Formerly when I wished to check my haste
+and impatience to press forward, and to continue my journey more
+rapidly, I attributed this eagerness merely to the force of habit,
+but I am now fully persuaded that it arose entirely from my anxiety
+to reach this goal. Now that I have at last attained it my mood is
+so tranquil and joyous, and yet so earnest, that I shall not
+attempt to describe it to you. What it is that thus works on me I
+cannot exactly define; for the awe-inspiring Coliseum, and the
+brilliant Vatican, and the genial air of spring, all contribute to
+make me feel thus, and so do the kindly people, my comfortable
+apartments, and everything else. At all events I am different from
+what I was. I am better in health and happier than I have been for
+a long time, and take delight in my work, and feel such an
+inclination for it, that I expect to accomplish much more than I
+anticipated; indeed, I have already done a good deal. If it pleases
+Providence to grant me a continuation of this happy mood, I look
+forward to the most delightful and productive winter.
+
+Picture to yourself a small house, with two windows in front, in
+the Piazza di Spagna, No. 5 which all day long enjoys the warm
+sun, and an apartment on the first floor, where there is a good
+Viennese grand piano: on the table are some portraits of
+Palestrina, Allegri, etc., along with the scores of their works,
+and a Latin psalm-book, from which I am to compose the _Non
+Nobis_;--such is my present abode. The Capitol was too far away,
+besides I had a great dread of the cold air, which here I have no
+cause to guard against; for when I look out of my window in the
+morning across the square, I see every object sharply defined in
+the sunshine against the blue sky. My landlord was formerly a
+captain in the French army, and his daughter has the most splendid
+contralto voice I ever heard. Above me lives a Prussian captain,
+with whom I talk politics,--in short, the situation is excellent.
+
+When I come into the room early in the morning, and see the sun
+shining so brightly on the breakfast-table (you see I am marred as
+a poet), I feel so cheerful and comfortable, for it is now far on
+in the autumn, and who in our country at this season looks for
+warmth, or a bright sky, or grapes and flowers? After breakfast I
+begin my work, and play, and sing, and compose till near noon. Then
+Rome in all her vast dimensions lies before me like an interesting
+problem to enjoy; but I go deliberately to work, daily selecting
+some different object appertaining to history. One day I visit the
+ruins of the ancient city; another I go to the Borghese gallery, or
+to the Capitol, or St. Peter's, or the Vatican. Each day is thus
+made memorable, and as I take my time, each object becomes firmly
+and indelibly impressed on me. When I am occupied in the forenoon I
+am willing to leave off, and should like to continue my writing,
+but I say to myself that I must see the Vatican, and when I am
+actually there, I equally dislike leaving it; thus each of my
+occupations causes me the most genuine pleasure, and one enjoyment
+follows another.
+
+Just as Venice, with her past, reminded me of a vast monument: her
+crumbling modern palaces, and the perpetual remembrance of former
+splendour, causing sad and discordant sensations; so does the past
+of Rome suggest the impersonation of history; her monuments elevate
+the soul, inspiring solemn yet serene feelings, and it is a thought
+fraught with exultation that man is capable of producing creations,
+which, after the lapse of a thousand years, still renovate and
+animate others. When I have fairly imprinted an object like this on
+my mind, and each day a fresh one, twilight has usually arrived and
+the day is over.
+
+I then visit my friends and acquaintances, when we mutually
+communicate what each has done, which means _enjoyed_ here, and are
+reciprocally pleased. I have been most evenings at Bendemann's and
+Hübner's, where German artists usually assemble, and I sometimes go
+to Schadow's. The Abbate Santini is a valuable acquaintance for me,
+as he has a very complete library of ancient Italian music, and he
+kindly gives or lends me anything I like, for no one can be more
+obliging. At night he makes either Ahlborn or me accompany him
+home, as an Abbate being seen alone at night in the streets would
+bring him into evil repute. That such youngsters as Ahlborn and I
+should act as duennas to a priest of sixty is diverting enough.
+
+The Duchess of ---- gave me a list of old music which she was
+anxious to procure copies of if possible. Santini's collection
+contains all this, and I am much obliged to him for having
+furnished me with copies, for I am now looking through them all,
+and becoming acquainted with them. I beg you will send me for him,
+as a token of my gratitude, the six cantatas of Sebastian Bach,
+published by Marx at Simrock's, or some of his pieces for the
+organ. I should however prefer the cantatas: he already has the
+"Magnificat" and the Motets, and others. He has translated the
+"Singet dem Herrn ein neues Lied," and intends it to be executed at
+Naples, for which he deserves a reward. I am writing to Zelter all
+particulars about the Papal singers, whom I have heard three
+times,--in the Quirinal, in the Monte Cavallo, and once in San
+Carlo.
+
+I look forward with delight to seeing Bunsen, we shall have much to
+discuss together, and I have likewise an idea that he has got some
+work for me; if I can conscientiously undertake it, I will do so
+gladly, and render it all the justice in my power. Among my home
+pleasures I include that of reading for the first time Goethe's
+Journey to Italy; and I must avow that it is a source of great
+satisfaction to me to find that he arrived in Rome the very same
+day that I did; that he also went first to the Quirinal, and heard
+a Requiem there; that he was seized with the same fit of impatience
+in Florence and Bologna; and felt the same tranquil, or as he calls
+it, solid spirit here: indeed, everything that he describes, I
+exactly experience myself, so I am pleased.
+
+He speaks in detail of a large picture of Titian's in the Vatican,
+and declares that its meaning is not to be devised; only a number
+of figures standing beautifully grouped together. I fancy, however,
+that I have discovered a very deep sense in it, and I believe that
+whoever finds the most beauties in Titian, is sure to be most in
+the right, for he was a glorious man. Though he has not had the
+opportunity of displaying and diffusing his genius here, as Raphael
+has done in the Vatican, still I can never forget his three
+pictures in Venice, and to these I may add the one in the Vatican,
+which I saw for the first time this morning. If any one could come
+into the world with full consciousness, every object around would
+smile on him with the same vivid life and animation, that these
+pictures do on us. "The School of Athens," and the "Disputa," and
+the "Peter," stand before us precisely as they were created; and
+then the entrance through splendid open arches, whence you can see
+the Piazza of St. Peter's, and Rome, and the blue Alban hills; and
+above our heads figures from the Old Testament, and a thousand
+bright little angels, and arabesques of fruit, and garlands of
+flowers; and then on to the gallery!
+
+You may well be proud, dear Hensel, for your copy of the
+"Transfiguration" is superb! The pleasing emotion which seizes me,
+when I see for the first time some immortal work, and the pervading
+idea and chief impression it inspires, I did not experience on this
+occasion from the original, but from _your_ copy. The first effect
+of this picture to-day, was precisely the same that yours had
+previously made on me; and it was not till after considerable
+research and contemplation that I succeeded in finding out anything
+new to me. On the other hand, the Madonna di Foligno dawned on me
+in the whole splendour of her loveliness. I have passed a happy
+morning in the midst of all these glorious works; as yet I have not
+visited the statues, but have reserved my first impression of them
+for another day.
+
+
+     November 9th, morning.
+
+Thus every morning brings me fresh anticipations, and every day
+fulfils them. The sun is again shining on my breakfast-table and I
+am now going to my daily work. I will send you, dear Fanny, by the
+first opportunity, what I composed in Vienna, and anything else
+that may be finished, and my sketch-book to Rebecca; but I am far
+from being pleased with it this time, so I intend to study
+attentively the sketches of the landscape painters here, in order
+to acquire if possible a new manner. I tried to produce one of my
+own, but it would not do!
+
+To-day I am going to the Lateran, and the ruins of ancient Rome;
+and in the evening to a kind English family, whose acquaintance I
+made here. Pray send me a good many letters of introduction. I am
+exceedingly anxious to know numbers of people, especially Italians.
+So I live on happily, and think of you in every pleasant moment.
+May you also be happy, and rejoice with me at the prospect which
+lies before me here!
+
+        FELIX M. B.
+
+
+     Rome, November 16th, 1830.
+
+     Dear Fanny,
+
+No post left this the day before yesterday, and I could not talk to
+you, so when I remembered that my letter must necessarily remain
+two days before it left Rome, I felt it impossible to write; but I
+thought of you times without number, and wished you every
+happiness, and congratulated myself that you were born a certain
+number of years ago. It is, indeed, cheering to think what
+charming, rational beings, are to be found in the world; and you
+are certainly one of these. Continue cheerful, bright, and well,
+and make no great change in yourself. I don't think you require to
+be much better; may good fortune ever abide with you!
+
+And now I think these are all my birthday good wishes; for really
+it is not fair to expect that a man of my _calibre_ should wish you
+also a fresh stock of musical ideas; besides you are very
+unreasonable in complaining of any deficiency in that respect. _Per
+Bacco!_ if you had the inclination, you certainly have sufficient
+genius to compose, and if you have no desire to do so, why grumble
+so much? If I had a baby to nurse, I certainly should not write any
+scores, and as I have to compose _Non Nobis_, I cannot unluckily
+carry my nephew about in my arms. But to speak seriously, your
+child is scarcely six months old yet, and you can think of anything
+but Sebastian?[6] (not Bach!) Be thankful that you have him. Music
+only retreats when there is no longer a place for her, and I am not
+surprised that you are not an unnatural mother. However, you have
+my best wishes on your birthday, for all that your heart desires;
+so I may as well wish you half-a-dozen melodies into the bargain;
+not that this will be of much use.
+
+  [6] The name of the child.
+
+In Rome here, we celebrated the 14th of November by the sky
+shining, in blue and festive array, and breathing on us warm genial
+air. So I went on pleasantly towards the Capitol and into church,
+where I heard a miserable sermon from ----, who is no doubt a very
+good man, but to my mind has a most morose style of preaching; and
+any one who could irritate me on _such_ a day, in the Capitol, and
+in church, must have an especial talent for so doing. I afterwards
+went to call on Bunsen, who had just arrived. He and his wife
+received me most kindly, and we conversed on much that was
+interesting, including politics and regrets for your absence.
+_Apropos_, my favourite work that I am now studying is Goethe's
+'Lili's Park,' especially three portions: "Kehr' ich mich um, und
+brumm:" then, "Eh la menotte;" and best of all, "Die ganze Luft ist
+warm, ist blüthevoll," where decidedly clarionets must be
+introduced. I mean to make it the subject of a scherzo for a
+symphony.
+
+Yesterday, at dinner at Bunsen's, we had among others a German
+musician. Oh, heavens! I wish I were a Frenchman! The man said to
+me, "Music must be _handled_ every day." "Why?" replied I, which
+rather embarrassed him. He also spoke of earnest purpose; and said
+that Spohr had no earnest purpose, but that he had distinctly
+discerned gleams of an earnest purpose in my _Tu es Petrus_. The
+fellow, however, has a small property at Frascati, and is about to
+_lay down_ the profession of music. We have not got so far as that
+yet!
+
+After dinner came Catel, Eggers, Senf, Wolf, then a painter, and
+then two more, and others. I played the piano, and they asked for
+pieces by Sebastian Bach, so I played numbers of his compositions,
+which were much admired. I also explained clearly to them the mode
+in which the "Passion" is executed; for they seemed scarcely to
+believe it. Bunsen possesses it, arranged for the piano; he showed
+it to the Papal singers, and they said before witnesses, that such
+music could not possibly be executed by human voices. I think the
+contrary. It seems, however, that Trautwein is about to publish
+the score of the Passion of St. John. I suppose I must order a set
+of studs for Paris, _à la Back_.
+
+To-day Bunsen is to take me to Baini's, whom he has not seen for a
+year as he never goes out except to hear confessions. I am glad to
+know him, and shall endeavour to improve my intimacy with him, for
+he can solve many an enigma for me. Old Santini continues as kind
+as ever. When we are together in society, if I praise any
+particular piece or am not acquainted with it, next morning he is
+sure to knock gently at my door, and to bring me the piece in
+question carefully wrapped up in a blue pocket-handkerchief; I, in
+return, accompany him home every evening; and we have a great
+regard for each other. He also brought me his _Te Deum_, written in
+eight parts, requesting me to correct some of the modulations, as G
+major predominates too much; so I mean to try if I cannot introduce
+some A minor or E minor.
+
+I am now very anxious to become acquainted with a good many
+Italians. I visit at the house of a certain Maestro di San Giovanni
+Laterano, whose daughters are musical, but not pretty, so this does
+not count for much. If therefore you can send me letters, pray do
+so. I work in the morning; at noon I see and admire, and thus the
+day glides away till sunset: but I should like in the evening to
+associate with the Roman world. My kind English friends have
+arrived from Venice; Lord Harrowby and his family are to pass the
+winter here. Schadow, Bendeman, Bunsen, Tippelskirch, all receive
+every evening; in short I have no lack of acquaintances, but I
+should like to know some Italians also.
+
+The present, dear Fanny, that I have prepared for your birthday, is
+a psalm, for chorus and orchestra, _Non nobis, Domine_. You know
+the melody well; there is an air in it which has a good ending, and
+the last chorus will I hope please you. I hear that next week I
+shall have an opportunity of sending it to you, along with a
+quantity of new music. I intend now to finish my overture, and then
+(D.V.) to proceed with my symphony. A pianoforte concerto, too,
+that I wish to write for Paris, begins to float in my head. If
+Providence kindly bestows on me success and bright days, I hope we
+shall enjoy them together. Farewell! May you be happy!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, November 22nd, 1830.
+
+     My dear Brother and Sisters,
+
+You know how much I dislike, at a distance of two hundred miles,
+and fourteen days' journey from you, to offer good advice. I mean
+to do so, however, for once. Let me tell you therefore of a mistake
+in your conduct, and in truth the same that I once made myself. I
+do assure you that never in my life have I known my father write in
+so irritable a strain as since I came to Rome, and so I wish to
+ask you if you cannot devise some domestic recipe to cheer him a
+little? I mean by forbearance and yielding to his wishes, and in
+this manner, by allowing my father's view of any subject to
+predominate over your own; then, not to speak at all on topics that
+irritate him; and instead of saying shameful, say unpleasant; or
+instead of superb, very fair. This method has often a wonderfully
+good effect; and I put it, with all submission to yourselves,
+whether it might not be equally successful in this case? For, with
+the exception of the great events of the world, ill-humour often
+seems to me to proceed from the same cause that my father's did
+when I chose to pursue my own path in my musical studies. He was
+then in a constant state of irritation, incessantly abusing
+Beethoven and all visionaries; and this often vexed me very much,
+and made me sometimes very unamiable. At that very time something
+new came out, which put my father out of sorts, and made him I
+believe not a little uneasy. So long therefore as I persisted in
+extolling and exalting my Beethoven, the evil became daily worse;
+and one day, if I remember rightly, I was even sent out of the
+room. At last, however, it occurred to me that I might speak a
+great deal of truth, and yet avoid the particular truth obnoxious
+to my father; so the aspect of affairs speedily began to improve,
+and soon all went well.
+
+Perhaps you may have in some degree forgotten that you ought now
+and then to be forbearing, and not aggressive. My father considers
+himself both much older and more irritable than, thank God, he
+really is; but it is our duty always to submit our opinion to his,
+even if the truth be as much on our side, as it often is on his,
+when opposed to us. Strive, then, to praise what he likes, and do
+not attack what is implanted in his heart, more especially ancient
+established ideas. Do not commend what is new till it has made some
+progress in the world, and acquired a name, for till then it is a
+mere matter of taste. Try to draw my father into your circle, and
+be playful and kind to him. In short, try to smooth and to equalize
+things; and remember that I, who am now an experienced man of the
+world, never yet knew any family, taking into due consideration all
+defects and failings, who have hitherto lived so happily together
+as ours.
+
+Do not send me any answer to this, for you will not receive it for
+a month, and by that time no doubt some fresh topic will have
+arisen; besides, if I have spoken nonsense, I do not wish to be
+scolded by you; and if I have spoken properly, I hope you will
+follow my good advice.
+
+
+     November 23rd.
+
+Just as I was going to set to work at the "Hebrides," arrived Herr
+B----, a musical professor from Magdeburg. He played me over a
+whole book of songs, and an Ave Maria, and begged to have the
+benefit of my opinion. I seemed in the position of a juvenile
+Nestor, and made him some insipid speeches, but this caused me the
+loss of a morning in Rome, which is a pity. The Choral, "Mitten wir
+im Leben sind," is finished, and is certainly one of the best
+sacred pieces that I have yet composed. After I have completed the
+Hebrides, I think of arranging Händel's Solomon for future
+performance, with proper curtailments, etc. I then purpose writing
+the Christmas music of "Vom Himmel hoch," and the symphony in A
+minor; perhaps also some pieces for the piano, and a concerto,
+etc., just as they come into my head.
+
+I own I do sadly miss some friend to whom I could communicate my
+new works, and who could examine the score along with me, and play
+a bass or a flute; whereas now when a piece is finished I must lay
+it aside in my desk without its giving pleasure to any one. London
+spoiled me in this respect. I can never again expect to meet all
+together such friends as I had there. Here I can only say the half
+of what I think, and leave the best half unspoken; whereas there it
+was not necessary to say more than the half, because the other half
+was a mere matter of course, and already understood. Still, this is
+a most delightful place.
+
+We young people went lately to Albano, and set off in the most
+lovely weather. The road to Frascati passed under the great
+aqueduct, its dark brown outlines standing out sharply defined
+against the clear blue sky; thence we proceeded to the monastery at
+Grotta Ferrata, where there are some beautiful frescoes by
+Domenichino; then to Marino, very picturesquely situated on a
+hill, and proceeding along the margin of the lake we reached Castel
+Gandolfo. The scenery, like my first impression of Italy, is by no
+means so striking or so wonderfully beautiful as is generally
+supposed, but most pleasing and gratifying to the eye, and the
+outlines undulating and picturesque, forming a perfect whole, with
+its _entourage_ and distribution of light.
+
+Here I must deliver a eulogy on monks; they finish a picture at
+once, giving it tone and colour, with their wide loose gowns, their
+pious meditative, gait, and their dark aspect. A beautiful shady
+avenue of evergreen oaks runs along the lake from Castel Gandolfo
+to Albano, where monks of every order are swarming, animating the
+scenery and yet marking its solitude. Near the city a couple of
+begging monks were walking together; further on, a whole troop of
+young Jesuits; then we saw an elegant young priest in a thicket
+reading; beyond this two more were standing in the wood with their
+guns, watching for birds. Then we came to a monastery, encircled by
+a number of small chapels. At last all was solitude; but at that
+moment appeared a dirty, stupid-looking Capuchin, laden with huge
+nosegays, which he placed before the various shrines, kneeling down
+in front of them before proceeding to decorate them.
+
+As we passed on, we met two old prelates engaged in eager
+conversation. The bell for vespers was ringing in the monastery of
+Albano, and even on the summit of the highest hill stands a
+Passionist convent, where they are only permitted to speak for a
+single hour daily, and occupy themselves solely in reading the
+history of the passion of Christ. In Albano, among girls with
+pitchers on their heads, vendors of flowers and vegetables, and all
+the crowd and tumult, we saw a coal-black dumb monk, returning to
+Monte Cavo, who formed a singular contrast to the rest of the
+scene. They seem to have taken entire possession of all this
+splendid country, and form a strange melancholy ground-tone for all
+that is lively, gay, and free, and the ever-living cheerfulness
+bestowed by nature. It is as if men, on that very account, required
+a counterpoise. This is not however my case, and I need no contrast
+to enable me to enjoy what I see.
+
+I am often with Bunsen, and as he likes to turn the conversation on
+the subject of his Liturgy and its musical portions, which I
+consider very deficient, I am perfectly plain-spoken, and give him
+a straight-forward opinion; and I believe this is the only way to
+establish a mutual understanding. We have had several long, serious
+discussions, and I hope we shall eventually know each other better.
+Yesterday Palestrina's music was performed at Bunsen's house (as on
+every Monday), and then for the first time I played before the
+Roman musicians _in corpore_. I am quite aware of the necessity in
+every foreign city of playing so as to make myself understood by
+the audience. This makes me usually feel rather embarrassed, and
+such was the case with me yesterday. After the Papal singers
+finished Palestrina's music, it was my turn to play something. A
+brilliant piece would have been unsuitable, and there had been more
+than enough of serious music; I therefore begged Astolfi, the
+Director, to give me a theme, so he lightly touched the notes with
+one finger thus:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+smiling as he did so. The black-frocked Abbati pressed round me and
+seemed highly delighted. I observed this, and it inspirited me so
+much that towards the end I succeeded famously; they clapped their
+hands like mad, and Bunsen declared that I had astounded the
+clergy; in short, the affair went off well. There is no encouraging
+prospect of any public performance here, so society is the only
+resource, which is fishing in troubled waters.
+
+         Yours, FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, November 30th, 1830.
+
+To come home from Bunsen's by moonlight, with your letter in my
+pocket, and then to read it through leisurely at night,--this is a
+degree of pleasure I wish many may enjoy. In all probability I
+shall stay here the whole winter, and not go to Naples till April.
+It is so delightful to look round on every side, and to appreciate
+it all properly. There is much that must be thought over, in order
+to receive a due impression from it. I have also within myself so
+much work requiring both quiet and industry, that I feel anything
+like haste would be utter destruction; and though I adhere
+faithfully to my system, to receive each day only one fresh image
+into my mind, still I am sometimes compelled even then to give
+myself a day of rest, that I may not become confused. I write you a
+short letter to-day, because I must for the present adhere to my
+work; and yet I cannot refrain from culling all the beauty that
+lies at my feet. The weather, too, is _brutto_ and cold, so that I
+am not in a very communicative mood. The Pope is dying, or possibly
+dead by this time. "We shall soon get a new one," say the Italians,
+coolly. His death will not affect the Carnival, nor the church
+festivals, with their pomps and processions, and fine music; and as
+there will be in addition to these, solemn requiems, and the
+lying-in-state at St. Peter's, they care little about it, provided
+it does not occur in February.
+
+I am delighted to hear that Mantius sings my songs, and likes them.
+Give him my kind regards, and ask him why he does not perform his
+promise, and write to me. I have written to him repeatedly in the
+shape of music. In the "Ave Maria," and in the choral "Aus tiefer
+Noth," some passages are composed expressly for him, and he will
+sing them charmingly. In the "Ave," which is a salutation, a tenor
+solo takes the lead of the choir (I thought of a disciple all the
+time). As the piece is in A major, and goes rather high at the
+words _Benedicta tu_, he must prepare his high A; it will vibrate
+well. Ask him to sing you a song I sent to Devrient from Venice,
+"Von schlechtem Lebenswandel." It is expressive of mingled joy and
+despair; no doubt he will sing it well. Show it to no one, but
+confine it solely to forty eyes. Ritz[7] too never writes, and yet
+I am constantly longing for his violin and his depth of feeling
+when he plays, which all recurs to my mind when I see his welcome
+writing. I am now working daily at the "Hebrides," and will send it
+to Ritz as soon as it is finished. It is quite a piece to suit
+him--so very singular.
+
+  [7] The violin player, Edward Ritz, an intimate friend of
+  Mendelssohn's.
+
+Next time I write I will tell you more of myself. I work hard, and
+lead a pleasant, happy life; my mirror is stuck full of Italian,
+German, and English visiting-cards, and I spend every evening with
+one of my acquaintances. There is a truly Babylonian confusion of
+tongues in my head, for English, Italian, German and French are all
+mixed up together in it. Two days ago I again extemporized before
+the Papal singers. The fellows had contrived to get hold of the
+most strange, quaint theme for me, wishing to put my powers to the
+test. They call me, however, _l'insuperabile professorone_, and are
+particularly kind and friendly. I much wished to have described to
+you the Sunday music in the Sistina, a _soirée_ at Torlonia's, the
+Vatican, St. Onofrio, Guido's Aurora, and other small matters, but
+I reserve them for my next letter. The post is about to set off,
+and this letter with it. My good wishes are always with you, to-day
+and ever.
+
+          Yours, FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, December 7th, 1830.
+
+I cannot even to-day manage to write to you as fully as I wish.
+Heaven knows how time flies here! I was introduced this week to
+several agreeable English families, and so I have the prospect of
+many pleasant evenings this winter. I am much with Bunsen. I intend
+also to cultivate Baini. I think he conceives me to be only a
+_brutissimo Tedesco_, so that I have a famous opportunity of
+becoming well acquainted with him. His compositions are certainly
+of no great value, and the same may be said of the whole music
+here. The wish is not wanting, but the means do not exist. The
+orchestra is below contempt. Mdlle. Carl,[8] (who is engaged as
+_prima donna assoluta_ for the season, at both the principal
+theatres here,) is now arrived, and begins to make _la pluie et le
+beau temps_. The Papal singers even are becoming old; they are
+almost all unmusical, and do not execute even the most established
+pieces in tune. The whole choir consists of thirty-two singers,
+but that number are rarely together. Concerts are given by the
+so-called Philharmonic Society, but only with the piano. There is
+no orchestra, and when recently they wished to perform Haydn's
+"Creation," the instrumentalists declared it was impossible to play
+it. The sounds they bring out of their wind instruments, are such
+as in Germany we have no conception of.
+
+  [8] Formerly a singer in the Royal Theatre at Berlin.
+
+The Pope is dead, and the Conclave assembles on the 14th. A great
+part of the winter will be occupied with the ceremonies of his
+funeral, and the enthronement of the new Pope. All music therefore
+and large parties must be at an end, so I very much doubt whether I
+shall be able to undertake any public performance during my stay
+here; but I do not regret this, for there are so many varied
+objects to enjoy inwardly, that my dwelling on these and meditating
+on them is no disadvantage. The performance of Graun's "Passion" in
+Naples, and more especially the translation of Sebastian Bach's,
+prove that the good cause is sure eventually to make its way,
+though it will neither kindle enthusiasm, nor will it be
+appreciated. It is no worse however with regard to music--in fact,
+rather better--than with their estimate of every other branch of
+the fine arts; for when some of Raphael's Loggie are with
+inconceivable recklessness and disgraceful barbarism actually
+defaced, to give place to inscriptions in pencil; when the lower
+parts of the arabesques are totally destroyed, because Italians
+with knives, and Heaven knows what else besides, inscribe their
+insignificant names there; when one person painted in large
+letters under the Apollo Belvedere, 'Christ;' when an altar has
+been erected in front of Michael Angelo's "Last Judgment," so large
+that it hides the centre of the picture, thus destroying the whole
+effect; when cattle are driven through the splendid saloons of the
+Villa Madama, the walls of which are painted by Giulio Romano, and
+fodder is stored in them, simply from indifference towards the
+beautiful,--all this is certainly much worse than a bad orchestra,
+and painters must be even more distressed by such things than I am
+by their miserable music.
+
+The fact is, that the people are mentally enervated and apathetic.
+They have a religion, but they do not believe in it; they have a
+Pope and a Government, but they turn them into ridicule; they can
+recall a brilliant and heroic past, but they do not value it. It is
+thus no marvel that they do not delight in Art, for they are
+indifferent to all that is earnest. It is really quite revolting to
+see their unconcern about the death of the Pope, and their unseemly
+merriment during the ceremonies. I myself saw the corpse lying in
+state, and the priests standing round incessantly whispering and
+laughing; and at this moment, when masses are being said for his
+soul, they are in the very same church hammering away at the
+scaffolding of the catafalque, so that the strokes of the hammers
+and the noise of the workpeople entirely prevent any one hearing
+the religious services. As soon as the Cardinals assemble in
+conclave, satires appear against them, where, for instance, they
+parody the Litanies, and instead of praying to be delivered from
+each particular sin, they name the bad qualities of each well-known
+cardinal; or, again, they perform an entire opera, where all the
+characters are Cardinals, one being the _primo amoroso_, another
+the _tiranno assoluto_, a third, stage candle-snuffer, etc. This
+could not be the case where the people took any pleasure in Art.
+Formerly it was no better, but they had faith then; and it is this
+which makes the difference. Nature, however, and the genial
+December atmosphere, and the outlines of the Alban hills,
+stretching as far as the sea, all remain unchanged. There they can
+scribble no names, or compose no inscriptions. These every one can
+still individually enjoy in all their freshness, and to these I
+cling. I feel much the want of a _friend_ here, to whom I could
+freely unbosom myself; who could read my music as I write it, thus
+making it doubly precious in my eyes; in whose society I could feel
+an interest, and enjoy repose; and honestly learn from him, (it
+would not require a very wise man for this purpose.) But just as
+trees are not ordained to grow up into the sky, so probably such a
+man is not likely to be found here; and the good fortune I have
+hitherto so richly enjoyed elsewhere, is not to fall to my share at
+present; so I must hum over my melodies to myself, and I dare say I
+shall do well enough.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, December 10th, 1830.
+
+     Dear Father,
+
+It is a year this very day since we kept your birthday at Hensel's,
+and now let me give you some account of Rome, as I did at that time
+of London. I intend to finish my Overture to the "Einsame Insel"[9]
+as a present to you, and if I write under it the 11th December,
+when I take up the sheets I shall feel as if I were about to place
+them in your hands. You would probably say that you could not read
+them, but still I should have offered you the best it was in my
+power to give; and though I desire to do this every day, still
+there is a peculiar feeling connected with a birthday. Would I were
+with you! I need not offer you my good wishes, for you know them
+all already, and the deep interest I, and all of us, take in your
+happiness and welfare, and that we cannot wish any good for you,
+that is not reflected doubly on ourselves. To-day is a holiday. I
+rejoice in thinking how cheerful you are at home; and when I repeat
+to you how happily I live here, I feel as if this were also a
+felicitation. A period like this, when serious thought and
+enjoyment are combined, is indeed most cheering and invigorating.
+Every time I enter my room I rejoice that I am not obliged to
+pursue my journey on the following day, and that I may quietly
+postpone many things till the morrow--that I am in Rome! Hitherto
+much that passed through my brain was swept away by fresh ideas,
+each new impression chasing away the previous one, while here, on
+the contrary, they are all in turn properly developed. I never
+remember having worked with so much zeal, and if I am to complete
+all that I have projected, I must be very industrious during the
+winter. I am indeed deprived of the great delight of showing my
+finished compositions to one who could take pleasure in them, and
+enter into them along with me; but this impels me to return to my
+labours, which please me most when I am fairly in the midst of
+them. And now this must be combined with the various solemnities,
+and festivals of every kind, which are to supplant my work for a
+few days; and as I have resolved to see and to enjoy all I possibly
+can, I do not allow my occupation to prevent this, and shall then
+return with fresh zeal to my composition.
+
+  [9] Afterwards published under the name of "Overture to the
+  Hebrides."
+
+This is indeed a delightful existence! My health is as good as
+possible, though the hot wind, called here the _sirocco_, rather
+attacks my nerves, and I find I must beware of playing the piano
+much, or at night; besides it is easy for me to refrain from doing
+so for a few days, as for some weeks past I have been playing
+almost every evening. Bunsen, who often warns me against playing
+if I find it prejudicial, gave a large party yesterday, where
+nevertheless I was obliged to play; but it was a pleasure
+to me, for I had the opportunity of making so many agreeable
+acquaintances. Thorwaldsen, in particular, expressed himself in so
+gratifying a manner with regard to me, that I felt quite proud, for
+I honor him as one of the greatest of men, and always have revered
+him. He looks like a lion, and the very sight of his face is
+invigorating. You feel at once that he must be a noble artist; his
+eyes look so clear, as if with him every object must assume a
+definite form and image. Moreover he is very gentle, and kind, and
+mild, because his nature is so superior; and yet he seems to be
+able to enjoy every trifle. It is a real source of pleasure to see
+a great man, and to know that the creator of works that will endure
+for ever stands before you in person; a living being with all his
+attributes, and individuality, and genius, and yet a man like
+others.
+
+
+     December 11th, morning.
+
+Now your actual birthday is arrived! A few lines of music suggested
+themselves to me on the occasion, and though they may not be worth
+much, the congratulations I have been in the habit of offering,
+were of quite as little value. Fanny may add the second part. I
+have only written what occurred to my mind as I entered the room,
+the sun shining, on your birthday:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+  [Music]
+
+  [Music]
+
+Bunsen has just been here, and begs me to send you his best regards
+and congratulations. He is all kindness and courtesy towards me,
+and as you wish to know, I think I may say that we suit each other
+remarkably well. The few words you wrote about P---- recalled him
+to my memory in all his offensiveness. The Abbate Santini ought to
+be an obscure man compared with him, for he never attempts to
+magnify his own importance by impertinence or self-sufficiency.
+P---- is one of those collectors who make learning and libraries
+distasteful to others by their narrow-mindedness, whereas Santini
+is a genuine collector, in the best sense of the word, caring
+little whether his collection be of much value in a pecuniary point
+of view. He therefore gives everything away indiscriminately, and
+is only anxious to procure something new, for his chief object is
+the diffusion and universal knowledge of ancient music. I have not
+seen him lately, as every morning now he figures, _ex officio_, in
+his violet gown at St. Peter's; but if he has made use of some
+ancient text, he will say so without scruple, as he has no wish to
+be thought the first discoverer. He is, in fact, a man of limited
+capacity; and this I consider great praise in a certain sense, for
+though he is neither a musical nor any other luminary, and even
+bears some resemblance to Lessing's inquisitive friar, still he
+knows how to confine himself within his own sphere. Music itself
+does not interest him much, if he can only have it on his shelves;
+and he is, and esteems himself to be, simply a quiet, zealous
+collector. I must admit that he is fatiguing, and not altogether
+free from irritability; still I love any one who adopts and
+perseveres in some particular pursuit, prosecuting it to the best
+of his ability, and endeavouring to perfect it for the benefit of
+mankind, and I think every one ought to esteem him just the same,
+whether he chance to be tiresome or agreeable.
+
+I wish you would read this aloud to P----. It always makes me
+furious when men who have no pursuit, presume to criticize those
+who wish to effect something, even on a small scale; so on this
+very account I took the liberty of rebuking lately a certain
+musician in society here. He began to speak of Mozart, and as
+Bunsen and his sister love Palestrina, he tried to flatter their
+tastes by asking me, for instance, what I thought of the worthy
+Mozart, and all his sins. I however replied, that so far as I was
+concerned, I should feel only too happy to renounce all _my_
+virtues in exchange for Mozart's sins: but that of course I could
+not venture to pronounce on the extent of _his_ virtues. The people
+all laughed, and were highly amused. How strange it is that such
+persons should feel no awe of so great a name!
+
+It is some consolation, however, that it is the same in every
+sphere of art, as the painters here are quite as bad. They are most
+formidable to look at, sitting in their _Café Greco_. I scarcely
+ever go there, for I dislike both them and their favourite places
+of resort. It is a small dark room, about eight feet square, where
+on one side you may smoke, but not on the other; so they sit round
+on benches, with their broad-leaved hats on their heads, and their
+huge mastiffs beside them; their cheeks and throats, and the whole
+of their faces covered with hair, puffing forth clouds of smoke
+(only on one side of the room), and saying rude things to each
+other, while the mastiffs swarm with vermin. A neckcloth or a coat
+would be quite innovations. Any portion of the face visible through
+the beard, is hid by spectacles; so they drink coffee, and speak of
+Titian and Pordenone, just as if they were sitting beside them, and
+also wore beards and wide-awakes! Moreover, they paint such sickly
+Madonnas and feeble saints, and such milk-sop heroes, that I feel
+the strongest inclination to knock them down. These infernal
+critics do not even shrink from discussing Titian's picture in the
+Vatican, about which you asked me; they say that it has neither
+subject nor meaning; yet it never seems to occur to them, that a
+master who had so long studied a picture with due love and
+reverence, must have had quite as deep an insight into the subject
+as they are likely to have, even with their coloured spectacles.
+And if in the course of my life I accomplish nothing but this, I am
+at all events determined to say the most harsh and cutting things
+to those who show no reverence towards their masters, and then I
+shall at least have performed one good work. But there they stand,
+and see all the splendour of those creations, so far transcending
+their own conceptions, and yet dare to criticize them.
+
+In this picture there are three stages, or whatever they are
+called the same as in the "Transfiguration." Below, saints and
+martyrs are represented in suffering and abasement; on every face
+is depicted sadness, nay almost impatience; one figure in rich
+episcopal robes looks upwards, with the most eager and agonized
+longing, as if weeping, but he cannot see all that is floating
+above his head, but which _we_ see, standing in front of the
+picture. Above, Mary and her Child are in a cloud, radiant with
+joy, and surrounded by angels, who have woven many garlands; the
+Holy Child holds one of these, and seems as if about to crown the
+saints beneath, but his Mother withholds his hand for the moment.
+The contrast between the pain and suffering below, whence St.
+Sebastian looks forth out of the picture with such gloom and almost
+apathy, and the lofty unalloyed exultation in the clouds above,
+where crowns and palms are already awaiting him, is truly
+admirable. High above the group of Mary, hovers the Holy Spirit,
+from whom emanates a bright streaming light, thus forming the apex
+of the whole composition. I have just remembered that Goethe, at
+the beginning of his first visit to Rome, describes and admires
+this picture; but I no longer have the book to enable me to read it
+over, and to compare my description with his. He speaks of it in
+considerable detail. It was at that time in the Quirinal, and
+subsequently transferred to the Vatican; whether it was painted on
+a given subject, as some allege, or not, is of no moment. Titian
+has imbued it with his genius and his poetical feeling, and has
+thus made it his own. I like Schadow much, and am often with him;
+on every occasion, and especially in his own department, he is mild
+and clear-judging, doing justice with due modesty to all that is
+truly great; he recently said that Titian had never painted an
+indifferent or an uninteresting picture, and I believe he is right;
+for life and enthusiasm and the soundest vigour are displayed in
+all his productions, and where these are, it is good to be also.
+There is one singular and fortunate peculiarity here: though all
+the objects have been, a thousand times over, described, discussed,
+copied, and criticized, in praise or blame, by the greatest
+masters, and the most insignificant scholars, cleverly or stupidly,
+still they never fail to make a fresh and sublime impression on
+all, affecting each person according to his own individuality. Here
+we can take refuge from man in all that surrounds us; in Berlin it
+is often exactly the reverse.
+
+I have this moment received your letter of the 27th, and am pleased
+to find that I have already answered many of the questions it
+contains. There is no hurry about the letters I asked for, as I
+have now made almost more acquaintances than I wish; besides, late
+hours, and playing so much, do not suit me in Rome, so I can await
+the arrival of these letters very patiently: it was not so at the
+time I urged you to send them. I cannot however understand what you
+mean by your allusion to _coteries_ which I ought to have outgrown,
+for I know that I, and all of us, invariably dreaded and detested
+what is usually so called,--that is, a frivolous, exclusive circle
+of society, clinging to empty outward forms. Among persons,
+however, who daily meet, while their mutual objects of interest
+remain the same, who have no sympathy with public life (and this is
+certainly the case in Berlin, with the exception of the theatre),
+it is not unnatural that they should form for themselves a gay,
+cheerful, and original mode of treating passing events, and that
+this should give rise to a peculiar, and perhaps monotonous style
+of conversation; but this by no means constitutes a _coterie_. I
+feel convinced that I shall never belong to one, whether I am in
+Rome or Wittenberg. I am glad that the last words I was writing
+when your letter arrived, chanced to be that in Berlin you must
+take refuge in society from all that surrounds you; thus proving
+that I had no spirit of _coterie_, which invariably estranges men
+from each other. I should deeply regret your observing anything of
+the kind in me or in any of us, except indeed for the moment.
+Forgive me, my dear father, for defending myself so warmly, but
+this word is most repugnant to my feelings, and you say in your
+letters that I am always to speak out what I think in a
+straightforward manner, so pray do not take this amiss.
+
+I was in St. Peter's to-day, where the grand solemnities called the
+absolutions have begun for the Pope, and which last till Tuesday,
+when the Cardinals assemble in conclave. The building surpasses all
+powers of description. It appears to me like some great work of
+nature, a forest, a mass of rocks, or something similar; for I
+never can realize the idea that it is the work of man. You strive
+to distinguish the ceiling as little as the canopy of heaven. You
+lose your way in St. Peter's, you take a walk in it, and ramble
+till you are quite tired; when divine service is performed and
+chanted there, you are not aware of it till you come quite close.
+The angels in the Baptistery are monstrous giants; the doves,
+colossal birds of prey; you lose all idea of measurement with the
+eye, or proportion; and yet who does not feel his heart expand,
+when standing under the dome, and gazing up at it? At present a
+monstrous catafalque has been erected in the nave in this
+shape.[10] The coffin is placed in the centre under the pillars;
+the thing is totally devoid of taste, and yet it has a wondrous
+effect. The upper circle is thickly studded with lights, so are all
+the ornaments; the lower circle is lighted in the same way, and
+over the coffin hangs a burning lamp, and innumerable lights are
+blazing under the statues. The whole structure is more than a
+hundred feet high, and stands exactly opposite the entrance. The
+guards of honour, and the Swiss, march about in the quadrangle; in
+every corner sits a Cardinal in deep mourning, attended by his
+servants, who hold large burning torches, and then the singing
+commences with responses, in the simple and monotonous tone you no
+doubt remember. It is the only occasion when there is any singing
+in the middle of the church, and the effect is wonderful. Those who
+place themselves among the singers (as I do) and watch them, are
+forcibly impressed by the scene: for they all stand round a
+colossal book from which they sing, and this book is in turn lit up
+by a colossal torch that burns before it; while the choir are
+eagerly pressing forward in their vestments, in order to see and to
+sing properly: and Baini with his monk's face, marking time with
+his hand, and occasionally joining in the chant with a stentorian
+voice. To watch all these different Italian faces, was most
+interesting; one enjoyment quickly succeeds another here, and it is
+the same in their churches, especially in St. Peter's, where by
+moving a few steps the whole scene is changed. I went to the very
+furthest end, whence there was indeed a wonderful _coup d'oeil_.
+Through the spiral columns of the high altar, which is confessedly
+as high as the palace in Berlin, far beyond the space of the
+cupola, the whole mass of the catafalque was seen in diminished
+perspective, with its rows of lights, and numbers of small human
+beings crowding round it. When the music commences, the sounds do
+not reach the other end for a long time, but echo and float in the
+vast space, so that the most singular and vague harmonies are borne
+towards you. If you change your position, and place yourself right
+in front of the catafalque, beyond the blaze of light and the
+brilliant pageantry, you have the dusky cupola replete with blue
+vapour; all this is quite indescribable. Such is Rome!
+
+  [10] A little sketch of the catafalque was enclosed in the
+  letter.
+
+This has become a long letter, so I must conclude; it will reach
+you on Christmas-day. May you all enjoy it happily! I send each of
+you presents, which are to be dispatched two days hence, and will
+arrive in time for the anniversary of your silver wedding-day. Many
+glad festivals are thus crowded together, and I scarcely know
+whether to imagine myself with you to-day, and to wish you, dear
+father, all possible happiness, or to arrive with my letter at
+Christmas, and not to be allowed by my mother to pass through the
+room with the Christmas-tree. I am afraid I must be contented with
+thinking of you.--Farewell all! May you be happy!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+I have just received your letter, which brings me the intelligence
+of Goethe's illness. What I personally feel at this news I cannot
+express. This whole evening his words, "I must try to keep all
+right till your return," have sounded continually in my ears, to
+the exclusion of every other thought: when he is gone, Germany will
+assume a very different aspect for artists. I have never thought of
+Germany without feeling heartfelt joy and pride that Goethe lived
+there; and the rising generation seem for the most part so weakly
+and feeble, that it makes my heart sink within me. He is the last;
+and with him closes a happy prosperous period for us! This year
+ends in solemn sadness.
+
+
+     Rome, December 20th, 1830.
+
+In my former letter I told you of the more serious aspect of Roman
+life; but as I wish to describe to you how I live, I must now tell
+you of the gayeties that have prevailed during this week.
+
+To-day we have the most genial sunshine, a blue sky, and a
+transparent atmosphere, and on such days I have my own mode of
+passing my time. I work hard till eleven o'clock, and from that
+hour till dark, I do nothing but breathe the air. For the first
+time, for some days past, we yesterday had fine weather. After
+therefore working for a time in the morning at "Solomon," I went to
+the Monte Pincio, where I rambled about the whole day. The effect
+of this exhilarating air is quite magical; and when I arose to-day,
+and again saw bright sunshine, I exulted in the thoughts of the
+entire idleness I was again about to indulge in. The whole world is
+on foot, revelling in a December spring. Every moment you meet some
+acquaintance, with whom you lounge about for a time, then leave
+him, and once more enjoy your solitary revery. There are swarms of
+handsome faces to be seen. As the sun declines, the appearance of
+the whole landscape, and every hue, undergo a change. When the Ave
+Maria sounds, it is time to go to the church of Trinità de' Monti,
+where French nuns sing; and it is charming to hear them. I declare
+to heaven that I am become quite tolerant, and listen to bad music
+with edification; but what can I do? the composition is positively
+ridiculous; the organ playing even more absurd. But it is
+twilight, and the whole of the small bright church is filled with
+persons kneeling, lit up by the sinking sun each time that the door
+is opened; both the singing nuns have the sweetest voices in the
+world, quite tender and touching, more especially when one of them
+sings the responses in her melodious voice, which we are accustomed
+to hear chanted by priests in a loud, harsh, monotonous tone. The
+impression is very singular; moreover, it is well known that no one
+is permitted to see the fair singers,--so this caused me to form a
+strange resolution. I have composed something to suit their voices,
+which I observed very minutely, and I mean to send it to
+them,--there are several modes to which I can have recourse to
+accomplish this. That they will sing it, I feel quite assured; and
+it will be pleasant for me to hear my chant performed by persons
+whom I never saw, especially as they must in turn sing it to the
+_barbaro Tedesco_, whom they also never beheld. I am charmed with
+this idea. The text is in Latin,--a Prayer to Mary. Does not this
+notion please you?[11]
+
+  [11] This piece appeared afterwards as Opus 39.
+
+After church I walk again on the hill until it is quite dark, when
+Madame Vernet and her daughter, and pretty Madame V---- (for whose
+acquaintance I have to thank Roesel), are much admired by us
+Germans, and we form groups round them, or follow, or walk beside
+them. The background is formed by haggard painters with terrific
+beards; they smoke tobacco on the Monte Pincio, whistle to their
+huge dogs, and enjoy the sunset in their own way.
+
+As I am in a frivolous mood to-day, I must relate to you, dear
+sisters, every particular of a ball I lately attended, and where I
+danced with a degree of zeal I never did before. I had spoken a few
+fair words to the _maître de danse_ (who stands in the middle here,
+and regulates everything), consequently he allowed the galop to
+continue for more than half an hour, so I was in my element, and
+pleasantly conscious that I was dancing in the Palazzo Albani, in
+Rome, and also with the prettiest girl in it, according to the
+verdict of the competent judges (Thorwaldsen, Vernet, etc.) The way
+in which I became acquainted with her is also an anecdote of Rome.
+I was at Torlonia's first ball, though not dancing, as I knew none
+of the ladies present, but merely looking at the people. Suddenly
+some one tapped me on the shoulder, saying, "So you also are
+admiring the English beauty; I am quite dazzled." It was
+Thorwaldsen himself standing at the door, lost in admiration;
+scarcely had he said this, when we heard a torrent of words behind
+us,--"Mais où est-elle donc, cette petite Anglaise? Ma femme m'a
+envoyé pour la regarder. Per Bacco!" It was quite clear that this
+little thin Frenchman, with stiff, grey hair, and the ribbon of the
+Legion of Honour, must be Horace Vernet. He now discussed the
+youthful beauty with Thorwaldsen, in the most earnest and
+scientific manner; and it was quite a pleasure to me to see these
+two old masters admiring the young girl together, while she was
+dancing away, quite unconcerned. They were then presented to her
+parents, but I felt very insignificant, as I could not join in the
+conversation. A few days afterwards, however, I was with some
+acquaintances whom I knew through the Attwoods, at Venice, they
+having invited me for the purpose of presenting me to some of their
+friends; and these friends turned out to be the very persons I have
+been speaking of; so your son and brother was highly delighted.
+
+My pianoforte playing is a source of great gratification to me
+here. You know how Thorwaldsen loves music, and I sometimes play to
+him in the morning while he is at work. He has an excellent
+instrument in his studio, and when I look at the old gentleman and
+see him kneading his brown clay, and delicately fining off an arm,
+or a fold of drapery,--in short, when he is creating what we must
+all admire when completed, as an enduring work,--then I do indeed
+rejoice that I have the means of bestowing any enjoyment on him.
+Nevertheless, I have not fallen into arrear with my own tasks. The
+"Hebrides" is completed at last, and a strange production it is.
+The chant for the nuns is in my head; and I think of composing
+Luther's choral for Christmas, but on this occasion I must do so
+quite alone; and it will be a more serious affair this time, and so
+will the anniversary of your silver wedding-day, when I intend to
+have a great many lights, and to sing my "Liederspiel," and to have
+a peep at my English _bâton_. After the new year, I intend to
+resume instrumental music, and to write several things for the
+piano, and probably a symphony of some kind, for two have been
+haunting my brain.
+
+I have lately frequented a most delightful spot,--the tomb of
+Cecilia Metella. The Sabine hills had a sprinkling of snow, but it
+was glorious sunshine; the Alban hills were like a dream or a
+vision. There is no such thing as distance in Italy, for all the
+houses on the hills can be counted, with their roofs and windows. I
+have thus inhaled this air to satiety; and to-morrow in all
+probability, more serious occupations will be resumed, for the sky
+is cloudy, and it is raining hard, but what a spring this will be!
+
+
+     December 21st.
+
+This is the shortest day, and very gloomy, as might have been
+anticipated; so to-day nothing can be thought of but fugues,
+chorals, balls, etc. But I must say a few words about Guido's
+"Aurora," which I often visit; it is a picture the very type of
+haste and impetus; for surely no man ever imagined such hurry and
+tumult, such sounding and clashing. Painters maintain that it is
+lighted from two sides,--they have my full permission to light
+_theirs_ from three if it will improve them,--but the difference
+lies elsewhere.
+
+I really cannot compose a tolerable song here, for who is there to
+sing it to me? But I am writing a grand fugue, "Wir glauben all,"
+and sing it to myself in such a fashion that my friend the Captain
+rushes downstairs in alarm, puts in his head, and asks what I want.
+I answer--a counter theme. But how much I do really want; and yet
+how much I have got! Thus life passes onwards.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, December 28th, 1830.
+
+Rome in wet weather is the most odious, uncomfortable place
+imaginable. For some days past we have had incessant storms and
+cold, and streams of water from the sky; and I can scarcely
+comprehend how, only one week ago, I could write you a letter full
+of rambles and orange-trees and all that is beautiful: in such
+weather as this everything becomes ugly. Still, I must write to you
+about it, otherwise my previous letter would not have the advantage
+of contrast, and of that there is no lack. If in Germany we can
+form no conception of the bright winter days here, quite as little
+can we realize a really wet winter day in Rome; everything is
+arranged for fine weather, so the bad is borne like a public
+calamity, and in the hope of better times. There is no shelter
+anywhere; in my room, which is usually so comfortable, the water
+pours in through the windows, which will not shut fast; the wind
+whistles through the doors, which will not close; the stone floor
+chills you in spite of double mattings, and the smoke from the
+chimney is driven into the room, because the fire will not burn;
+foreigners shiver and freeze here like tailors.
+
+All this is, however, actual luxury when compared with the streets;
+and when I am obliged to go out, I consider it a positive
+misfortune. Rome, as every one knows, is built on seven large
+hills; but there are a number of smaller ones besides, and all the
+streets are sloping, so the water pours down them, and rushes
+towards you; nowhere is there a raised footpath, or a _trottoir_;
+at the stair of the Piazza di Spagna, there is a flood like the
+great water-works in Wilhelms-Höhe; the Tiber has overflowed its
+banks, and inundated the adjacent streets: this, then, is the water
+from below. From above come violent showers of rain, but that is
+the least part. The houses have no water-spouts, and the long roofs
+slant precipitously, but, being of different lengths, this causes
+an incessant violent inundation on both sides of the street, so
+that go where you will, close to the houses, or in the middle of
+the streets, beside a barber's shop or a palace, you are sure to be
+deluged, and, quite unawares, you find yourself standing under a
+tremendous shower-bath, the water pelting on your umbrella, while a
+stream is running before you that you cannot jump over, so you are
+obliged to return the way you came: this is the water overhead.
+Then the carriages drive as rapidly as possible, and close to the
+houses, so that you must retreat into the doorways till they are
+past; they not only splash men and houses, but each other, so that
+when two meet, one must drive into the gutter, which, being a rapid
+current, the consequences are lamentable. Lately I saw an Abbate
+hurrying along, whose umbrella chancing to knock off the
+broad-brimmed hat of a peasant, it fell with the crown exposed to
+one of these deluges, and when the man went to pick it up, it was
+quite filled with water. "Scusi," said the Abbate. "Padronè,"
+replied the peasant. The hackney coaches moreover only ply till
+five o'clock, so if you go to a party at night, it costs you a
+scudo. _Fiat justitia et pereat mundus_--Rome in rainy weather is
+vastly disagreeable.
+
+I see by a letter of Devrient's, that one I wrote to him from
+Venice, and which I took to the post myself on the 17th of October,
+had not reached him on the 19th of November. It would appear also,
+that another which I sent the same day to Munich had not arrived;
+both these letters contained music, and this accounts for the loss.
+At that very time in Venice they carried off all my manuscripts to
+the Custom-house, after visiting my effects at night, shortly
+before the departure of the post, and I only received them again
+here, after much worry and writing backwards and forwards. Every
+one assured me that the cause of this was a secret correspondence
+being suspected in cipher in the manuscript music. I could scarcely
+credit such intolerable stupidity; but as my two letters from
+Venice containing music have not arrived, and these only, the
+thing is clear enough. I intend to complain of this to the Austrian
+ambassador here, but it will do no good, and the letters are lost,
+which I much regret. Farewell!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, January 17th, 1831.
+
+For a week past we have had the most lovely spring weather. Young
+girls are carrying about nosegays of violets and anemones, which
+they gather early in the morning at the Villa Pamfili. The streets
+and squares swarm with gaily attired pedestrians; the Ave Maria has
+already been advanced twenty minutes, but what is become of the
+winter? Some little time ago it indeed reminded me of my work, to
+which I now mean to apply steadily, for I own that during the gay
+social life of the previous weeks, I had rather neglected it. I
+have nearly completed the arrangement of "Solomon," and also my
+Christmas anthem, which consists of five numbers; the two
+symphonies also begin to assume a more definite form, and I
+particularly wish to finish them here. Probably I shall be able to
+accomplish this during Lent, when parties cease (especially balls)
+and spring begins, and then I shall have both time and inclination
+to compose, in which case I hope to have a good store of new
+works. Any performance of them here is quite out of the question.
+The orchestras are worse than any one could believe; both
+musicians, and a right feeling for music, are wanting. The two or
+three violin performers play just as they choose, and join in when
+they please; the wind instruments are tuned either too high or too
+low; and they execute flourishes like those we are accustomed to
+hear in farm-yards, but hardly so good; in short the whole forms a
+Dutch concert, and this applies even to compositions with which
+they are familiar.
+
+The question is, whether all this could be radically reformed by
+introducing other people into the orchestra, by teaching the
+musicians time, and by instructing them in first principles. I
+think in that case the people would no doubt take pleasure in it;
+so long, however, as this is not done, no improvement can be hoped
+for, and every one seems so indifferent on the subject, that there
+is not the slightest prospect of such a thing. I heard a solo on
+the flute, where the flute was more than a quarter of a tone too
+high; it set my teeth on edge, but no one remarked it, and when at
+the end a shake came, they applauded mechanically. If it were even
+a shade better with regard to singing! The great singers have left
+the country. Lablache, David, Lalande, Pisaroni, etc., sing in
+Paris, and the minor ones who remain, copy their inspired moments,
+which they caricature in the most insupportable manner.
+
+We in Germany may perhaps wish to accomplish something false or
+impossible, but it is, and always will be, quite _dissimilar_; and
+just as a _cicisbeo_ will for ever be odious and repulsive to my
+feelings, so is it also with Italian music. I may be too obtuse to
+comprehend either; but I shall never feel otherwise; and recently,
+at the Philharmonic, after the music of Pacini and Bellini, when
+the Cavaliere Ricci begged me to accompany him in "Non più andrai,"
+the very first notes were so utterly different and so infinitely
+remote from all the previous music, that the matter was clear to me
+then, and never will it be equalized, so long as there is such a
+blue sky, and such a charming winter as the present. In the same
+way the Swiss can paint no beautiful scenery, precisely because
+they have it the whole day before their eyes. "Les Allemands
+traitent la musique comme une affaire d'état," says Spontini, and I
+accept the axiom. I lately heard some musicians here talking of
+their composers, and I listened in silence. One quoted ----, but
+the others interrupted him, saying he could not be considered an
+Italian, for the German school still clung to him, and he had never
+been able to get rid of it; consequently he had never been at home
+in Italy: we Germans say precisely the reverse of him, and it must
+be not a little trying to find yourself so _entre deux_, and
+without any fatherland. So far as I am concerned I stick to my own
+colours, which are quite honourable enough for me.
+
+Last night a theatre that Torlonia has undertaken and organized,
+was opened with a new opera of Pacini's. The crowd was great, and
+every box filled with handsome, well-dressed people; young Torlonia
+appeared in a stage-box with his mother, the old Duchess, and they
+were immensely applauded. The audience called out _Bravo, Torlonia,
+grazie, grazie!_ Opposite to him was Jerome, with his suite, and
+covered with orders: in the next box Countess Samoilow, etc. Over
+the orchestra is a picture of Time pointing to the dial of the
+clock, which revolves slowly, and is enough to make any one
+melancholy. Pacini then appeared at the piano, and was kindly
+welcomed. He had prepared no overture, so the opera began with a
+chorus, accompanied by strokes on an anvil tuned in the proper key.
+The Corsair came forward, sang his _aria_, and was applauded, on
+which the Corsair above, and the Maestro below, bowed (this pirate
+is a contralto, and sung by Mademoiselle Mariani); a variety of
+airs followed, and the piece became very tiresome. This seemed to
+be also the opinion of the public, for when Pacini's grand _finale_
+began, the whole pit stood up, talking to each other as loud as
+they could, laughing and turning their backs on the stage. Madame
+Samoilow fainted in her box, and was carried out. Pacini glided
+away from the piano, and at the end of the act, the curtain fell in
+the midst of a great tumult. Then came the grand ballet of _Barbe
+Bleue_, followed by the last act of the opera. As the audience were
+now in a mood for it, they hissed the whole ballet from the very
+beginning, and accompanied the second act also with hooting and
+laughter. At the close Torlonia was called for, but he would not
+appear.
+
+This is the matter-of-fact narrative of a first performance at the
+opening of a theatre in Rome. I had anticipated much amusement, so
+I came away considerably out of humour; still, if the music had
+made _furore_, I should have been very indignant, for it is so
+wretched that it really is beneath all criticism. But that they
+should turn their backs on their favourite Pacini, whom they wished
+to crown in the Capitol, parody his melodies, and sing them in a
+ludicrous style, this does, I confess, provoke me not a little, and
+is likewise a proof of how low such a musician stands in the public
+opinion. Another time they will carry him home on their shoulders;
+but this is no compensation. They would not act thus in France with
+regard to Boieldieu; independent of all love of art, a sense of
+propriety would prevent their doing so: but enough of this subject,
+for it is too vexatious.
+
+Why should Italy still insist on being the land of Art, while it is
+in reality the Land of Nature, thus delighting every heart! I have
+already described to you my walks to the Monte Pincio. I continue
+them daily. I went lately with the Vollards to Ponte Nomentano, a
+solitary dilapidated bridge in the spacious green Campagna. Many
+ruins from the days of ancient Rome, and many watch-towers from the
+Middle Ages, are scattered over this long succession of meadows;
+chains of hills rise towards the horizon, now partially covered
+with snow, and fantastically varied in form and colour by the
+shadows of the clouds. And there is also the enchanting, vapoury
+vision of the Alban hills, which change their hues like a
+chameleon, as you gaze at them,--where you can see for miles little
+white chapels glittering on the dark ground of the hills, as far as
+the Passionist Convent on the summit, and whence you can trace the
+road winding through thickets, and the hills sloping downwards to
+the Lake of Albano, while a hermitage peeps through the trees. The
+distance is equal to that from Berlin to Potsdam, say I as a good
+Berliner; but that it is a lovely vision, I say in earnest. No lack
+of music _there_; it echoes and vibrates _there_ on every side; not
+in the vapid, tasteless theatres. So we rambled about, chasing each
+other in the Campagna, and jumping over the fences, and when the
+sun went down we drove home, feeling so weary, and yet so
+self-satisfied and pleased, as if we had done great things; and so
+we have, if we _rightly appreciated_ it all.
+
+I have now applied myself again to drawing, and have latterly put
+in some tints, as I should be glad to be able to recall some of
+these bright hues, and practice quickens the perceptions. I must
+now tell you, dear mother, of a great, very great pleasure I
+recently enjoyed, because you will rejoice with me. Two days ago I
+was for the first time in a small circle with Horace Vernet, and
+played there. He had previously told me that his most favourite and
+esteemed music was "Don Juan," especially the Duet and the
+Commendatore at the end; and as I highly approved of such
+sentiments on his part, the result was, that while playing a
+prelude to Weber's _Concert-Stück_, I imperceptibly glided further
+into extemporizing--thought I would please him by taking these
+themes, and so I worked them up fancifully for some time. This
+caused him a degree of delight far beyond what I ever knew my music
+produce in any one, and we became at once more intimate. Afterwards
+he suddenly came up to me, and whispered that we must make an
+exchange, for that he also was an improvisatore; and when I was
+naturally curious to know what he meant, he said it was his secret.
+He is however like a little child, and could not conceal it for
+more than a quarter of an hour, when he came in again, and taking
+me into the next room, he asked me if I had any time to spare, as
+he had stretched and prepared a canvas, and proposed painting my
+portrait on it, which I was to keep in memory of this day, or roll
+it up and send it to you, or take it with me, just as I chose. He
+said he should have no easy task with his improvisation, but at all
+events he would attempt it. I was only too glad to give my consent,
+and cannot tell you how much I was enchanted with the delight and
+enthusiasm he evidently felt in my playing.
+
+It was in every respect a happy evening; as I ascended the hill
+with him, all was so still and peaceful, and only one window lit up
+in the large dark villa.[12] Fragments of music floated on the
+air, and its echoes in the dark night, mingled with the murmuring
+of fountains, were sweeter than I can describe. Two young students
+were drilling in the anteroom, while the third acted the part of
+lieutenant, and commanded in good form. In another room my friend
+Montfort, who gained the prize for music in the Conservatorium, was
+seated at a piano, and others were standing round, singing a
+chorus; but it went very badly. They urged another young man to
+join them, and when he said that he did not know how to sing, his
+friend rejoined, "Qu'est-ce que ça fait? c'est toujours une voix de
+plus!" I helped them as I best could, and we were well amused.
+Afterwards we danced, and I wish you could have seen Louisa Vernet
+dancing the Saltarella with her father. When at length she was
+forced to stop for a few moments, and snatched up a tambourine,
+playing with the utmost spirit, and relieving us, who could really
+scarcely any longer move our hands, I wished I had been a painter,
+for what a superb picture she would have made! Her mother is the
+kindest creature in the world, and the grandfather, Charles Vernet
+(who paints such splendid horses), danced a quadrille the same
+evening with so much ease, making so many _entrechats_, and varying
+his steps so gracefully, that it is a sad pity he should actually
+be seventy-two years of age. Every day he rides, and tires out two
+horses, paints and draws a little, and spends the evening in
+society.
+
+  [12] Vernet lived in the Villa Medici.
+
+In my next letter I must tell you of my acquaintance with Robert,
+who has just finished an admirable picture, "The Harvest," and also
+describe my recent visits with Bunsen to the studios of Cornelius,
+Koch, Overbeck, etc. My time is fully occupied, for there is plenty
+to do and to see; unluckily I cannot make time elastic, however
+much I may strive to extend it. I have as yet said nothing of
+Raphael's portrait as a child, and Titian's "Nymphs Bathing," who
+in a piquant enough fashion are designated "Sacred and Profane
+Love," one being in full gala costume, while the other is devoid of
+all drapery,[13] or of my exquisite "Madonna di Foligno," or of
+Francesco Francia, the most guileless and devout painter in the
+world; or of poor Guido Reni, whom the bearded painters of the
+present day treat with such contempt, and yet he painted a certain
+Aurora, and many other splendid objects besides; but what avails
+description? It is well for me that I can revel in the sight of
+them. When we meet, I may perhaps be able to give you a better idea
+of them.
+
+         Your FELIX.
+
+  [13] This picture is in the Borghese Gallery.
+
+     Rome, February 1st, 1831.
+
+I intended not to write to you till my birthday, but possibly two
+days hence I may not be in a writing mood, and must drive all
+fancies away by hard work. It does not seem probable that the Papal
+military band will surprise me in the morning,[14] and as I have
+told all my acquaintances that I was born on the 25th, I think the
+day will glide quietly by; I prefer this to a trivial half-and-half
+celebration. I will place your portrait before me in the morning,
+and feel happy in looking at it and in thinking of you. I shall
+then play over my military overture, and select my favourite dish
+for dinner, from the _carte_ at the _Lepre_. It is not unprofitable
+to be obliged to do all this for one's self, both on birthdays and
+other days. I feel isolated enough, and am rather partial to the
+other extreme. At night the Torlonias are so obliging as to give a
+ball to eight hundred persons; on Wednesday, the day before, and
+on Friday, the day after my birthday, I am invited to the house
+of some English friends. During the previous week, I have been
+busily engaged in sight-seeing, and revisited many well-known
+objects;--thus I was in the Vatican, the Farnesina, Corsini, the
+Villa Lante, Borghese, etc. Two days ago I saw the frescoes for the
+first time in Bartholdy's house;[15] inasmuch as the English ladies
+who reside there, and who have transformed the painted saloon into
+a sleeping apartment, with a four-post bed, would never hitherto
+permit me to enter it. So this was my first visit to my uncle's
+house, where at last I saw his pictures, and the view of the city.
+It was a noble, regal idea to have these frescoes; and the
+execution of such a sublime thought, in spite of every kind of
+impediment and annoyance, simply in order that the design should be
+carried out, seems to me very charming.
+
+  [14] On the 3rd of February, 1830, the bands of some regiments in
+  Berlin gave Mendelssohn a serenade in honour of his birthday.
+
+  [15] The Prussian Consul-General Bartholdy, who died in Rome, and
+  was an uncle of Felix Mendelssohn's.
+
+But to turn to an entirely different subject. In many circles here,
+it is the fashion to consider piety and dulness synonymous, and yet
+they are very different; our German clergyman here is not
+behindhand in this respect. There are men in Rome with an amount of
+fanaticism credible in the sixteenth century, but quite monstrous
+in the present day; they all wish to make converts, abusing each
+other in a Christian manner, and each ridiculing the belief of his
+neighbour, till it is quite too sad to hear them. As if to have
+simplicity, and to be simple, were the same thing! Unfortunately I
+must here retract my favourite axiom, that _goodwill_ can effect
+all things, _ability_ must accompany it; but I am soaring too high,
+and my father will lecture me. I wish this letter were better, but
+we have snow on the ground; the roofs in the Piazza di Spagna are
+quite white, and heavy clouds of snow are gathering; nothing can be
+more odious to us Southerners, and we are freezing. The Monte
+Pincio is a mass of ice. Your Northern Lights have their revenge on
+us. Who can write or think with any degree of warmth? I was so
+pleased at the idea of being a whole winter without snow, but now I
+must give up that notion. The Italians say that spring breezes will
+come in a few days; then gay life, and gay letters, will be
+resumed. Farewell! may you enjoy every good, and think of me.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, February 8th, 1831.
+
+The Pope is elected: the Pope is crowned. He performed mass in St.
+Peter's on Sunday, and conferred his benediction; in the evening
+the dome was illuminated, succeeded by the Girandola; the Carnival
+began on Saturday, and pursues its headlong course in the most
+motley forms. The city has been illuminated each evening. Last
+night there was a ball at the French Embassy; to-day the Spanish
+Ambassador gives a grand entertainment. Next door to me they sell
+_confetti_, and how they do shout! And now I might as well stop,
+for why attempt to describe what is, in fact, indescribable? You
+ought to make Hensel tell you of these splendid _fêtes_, which in
+pomp, brilliancy, and animation, surpass all the imagination can
+conceive, for my sober pen is not equal to the task. What a
+different aspect everything has assumed during the last eight days,
+for now the mildest and most genial sun is shining, and we remain
+in the balcony enjoying the air till after sunset. Oh, that I could
+enclose for you, in this letter, only one quarter of an hour of all
+this pleasure, or tell you how life actually flies in Rome, every
+minute bringing its own memorable delights! It is not difficult to
+give _fêtes_ here; if the simple architectural outlines are lighted
+up, the dome of St. Peter's blazes forth in the dark purple
+atmosphere, calmly shining. If there are fireworks, they brighten
+the gloomy solid walls of the Castle of St. Angelo, and fall into
+the Tiber; when they commence their fantastic _fêtes_ in February,
+the most lustrous sun shines down on them and beautifies them. It
+is a wondrous land.
+
+But I must not forget to tell you that I spent my birthday very
+differently from what I expected. I must however be brief, for an
+hour hence I go to join the Carnival in the Corso. My birthday had
+three celebrations--the eve, the birthday itself, and the day
+after. On the 2nd of February, Santini was sitting in my room in
+the morning, and in answer to my impatient questions about the
+Conclave, he replied with a diplomatic air, that there was little
+chance of a Pope being elected before Easter. Herr Brisbane also
+called, and told me that after leaving Berlin, he had been in
+Constantinople, and Smyrna, etc., and inquired after all his
+acquaintances in Berlin, when suddenly the report of a cannon was
+heard, and then another, and the people rushed across the Piazza di
+Spagna, shouting with all their might. We three started off, Heaven
+knows how, and ran breathlessly to the Quirinal, where the man was
+just retreating, who had shouted through a broken window--"Annuncio
+vobis gaudium magnum; habemus Papam R. E. dominum Capellari, qui
+nomen assumsit Gregorius XVI." All the Cardinals now crowded into
+the balcony, to breathe fresh air, and laughed, and talked together
+It was the first time they had been in the open air for fifty
+days, and yet they looked so gay, their red caps shining brightly
+in the sun; the whole Piazza was filled with people, who clambered
+on the obelisk, and on the horses of Phidias, and the statues
+projected far above in the air. Carriage after carriage drove up,
+amid jostling and shouting. Then the new Pope appeared, and before
+him was borne the golden cross, and he blessed the crowd for the
+first time, while the people at the same moment prayed, and cried
+"Hurrah!" All the bells in Rome were ringing, and there was firing
+of cannons, and flourishes of trumpets, and military music. This
+was the _eve_ of my birthday.
+
+Next morning I followed the crowd down the long street to the
+Piazza of St. Peter's, which looked finer than I had ever seen it,
+lit up brightly by the sun, and swarming with carriages; the
+Cardinals in their red coaches, driving in state to the sacristy,
+with servants in embroidered liveries, and people innumerable, of
+every nation, rank, and condition; and high above them the dome and
+the church seeming to float in blue vapour, for there was
+considerable mist in the morning air. And I thought that Capellari
+would probably appropriate all this to himself when he saw it; but
+I knew better. It was all to celebrate my birthday; and the
+election of the Pope, and the homage, a mere spectacle in honour of
+me; but it was well and naturally performed; and so long as I live.
+I shall never forget it.
+
+The Church of St. Peter's was crowded to the door. The Pope was
+borne in on his throne, and fans of peacocks' feathers carried
+before him, and then set down on the High Altar, when the Papal
+singers intoned, "_Tu es sacerdos magnus_." I only heard two or
+three chords, but it required no more; the sound was enough. Then
+one Cardinal succeeded another, kissing the Pope's foot and his
+hands, when he in turn embraced them. After surveying all this for
+a time, standing closely pressed by a crowd, and unable to move, to
+look suddenly aloft to the dome, as far as the lantern, inspires a
+singular sensation. I was with Diodati, among a throng of
+Capuchins; these saintly men are far from being devotional on an
+occasion of this kind, and by no means cleanly. But I must hasten
+on; the Carnival is beginning, and I must not lose any portion of
+it.
+
+At night, (in honour of my birthday,) barrels of pitch were burned
+in all the streets, and the Propaganda illuminated. The people
+thought this was owing to its being the former residence of the
+Pope, but _I_ knew it was because I lived exactly opposite, and I
+had only to lean out of my window to enjoy it all. Then came
+Torlonia's ball, and in every corner were seen glimpses of red caps
+above, and red stockings below. The following day they worked very
+hard at scaffoldings, platforms, and stages for the Carnival;
+edicts were posted up about horse-racing, and specimens of masks
+were displayed at the windows, and (in celebration of the day
+following my birthday) the illumination of the dome, and the
+Girandola were fixed for Sunday. On Saturday all the world went to
+the Capitol, to witness the form of the Jews' supplications to be
+suffered to remain in the Sacred City for another year; a request
+which is refused at the foot of the hill, but after repeated
+entreaties, granted on the summit, and the Ghetto is assigned to
+them. It was a tiresome affair; we waited two hours, and after all,
+understood the oration of the Jews as little as the answer of the
+Christians. I came down again in very bad humour, and thought that
+the Carnival had commenced rather unpropitiously. So I arrived in
+the Corso and was driving along, thinking no evil, when I was
+suddenly assailed by a shower of sugar comfits. I looked up; they
+had been flung by some young ladies whom I had seen occasionally at
+balls, but scarcely knew, and when in my embarrassment I took off
+my hat to bow to them, the pelting began in right earnest. Their
+carriage drove on, and in the next was Miss T----, a delicate young
+Englishwoman. I tried to bow to her, but she pelted me too, so I
+became quite desperate, and clutching the _confetti_, I flung them
+back bravely; there were swarms of my acquaintances, and my blue
+coat was soon as white as that of a miller. The B----s were
+standing on a balcony, flinging _confetti_ like hail at my head;
+and thus pelting and pelted, amid a thousand jests and jeers, and
+the most extravagant masks, the day ended with races.
+
+The following day there was no carnival, but as a compensation, the
+Pope conferred his benediction from the Loggia, in the Piazza of
+St. Peter's; he was consecrated as Bishop in the Church, and at
+night the dome was lighted up. The sudden, nay _instantaneous_
+change the illumination of the building effects, you must ask
+Hensel to paint or to describe, whichever he prefers. Nothing can
+be more startling than the sudden and surprising vision, of so
+many hundred human beings, previously invisible, now revealed as
+it were in the air, working and moving about--and the glorious
+Girandola,--but who can conceive it! Now the gaieties recommence.
+Farewell! in my next letter I mean to continue my description.
+Yesterday, at the Carnival, flowers and _bonbons_ were indiscriminately
+thrown, and a mask gave me a bouquet, which I have dried, and mean
+to bring home for you. All idea of occupation is out of the question
+at present; I have only composed one little song; but when Lent comes,
+I intend to be more industrious. Who can at such a moment think either
+of writing or music? I must go out, so farewell, dear ones.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, February 22nd, 1831.
+
+A thousand thanks for your letter of the 8th, which I received
+yesterday, on my return from Tivoli. I cannot tell you, dear Fanny,
+how much I am delighted with your plan about the Sunday music. This
+idea of yours is most brilliant, and I do entreat of you, for
+Heaven's sake, not to let it die away again; on the contrary, pray
+give your travelling brother a commission to write something new
+for you. He will gladly do so, for he is quite charmed with you,
+and with your project. You must let me know what voices you have,
+and also take counsel with your subjects as to what they like best
+(for the people, O Fanny, have rights). I think it would be a good
+plan to place before them something easy, interesting and
+pleasing,--for instance, the Litany of Sebastian Bach. But to speak
+seriously, I recommend the "Shepherd of Israel," or the "Dixit
+Dominus," of Hændel.
+
+Do you mean to play something during the intervals to these people?
+I think this would not be unprofitable to either party, for they
+must have time to take breath, and you must study the piano, and
+thus it would become a vocal and instrumental concert. I wish so
+much that I could be one of the audience, and compliment you
+afterwards. Be discreet and indulgent, and avoid fatiguing either
+yourself or the voices of your singers. Do not be irritable when
+things go badly; say very little on the subject to any one. Lastly,
+above all, endeavour to prevent the choir feeling any tedium, for
+this is the principal point. One of my pieces certainly owes its
+birth to this Sunday music. When you wrote to me about it lately, I
+reflected whether there was anything I could send you, thus
+reviving an old favourite scheme of mine, which has however now
+assumed such vast proportions, that I cannot let you have any part
+of it by E----, but you shall have it at some future time.
+
+Listen and wonder! Since I left Vienna I have partly composed
+Goethe's first "Walpurgis Night," but have not yet had courage to
+write it down. The composition has now assumed a form, and become a
+grand Cantata, with full orchestra, and may turn out well. At the
+opening there are songs of spring, etc., and plenty of others of
+the same kind. Afterwards, when the watchmen with their "Gabeln,
+und Zacken, und Eulen," make a great noise, the fairy frolics
+begin, and you know that I have a particular foible for them; the
+sacrificial Druids then appear, with their trombones in C major,
+when the watchmen come in again in alarm, and here I mean to
+introduce a light mysterious tripping chorus; and lastly to
+conclude with a grand sacrificial hymn. Do you not think that this
+might develop into a new style of Cantata? I have an instrumental
+introduction, as a matter of course, and the effect of the whole is
+very spirited. I hope it will soon be finished. I have once more
+begun to compose with fresh vigour, and the Italian symphony makes
+rapid progress; it will be the most sportive piece I have yet
+composed, especially the last movement. I have not yet decided on
+the _adagio_, and think I shall reserve it for Naples. "Verleih uns
+Frieden" is completed, and "Wir glauben all" will also be ready in
+a few days. The Scotch symphony alone is not yet quite to my
+liking; if any brilliant idea occurs to me, I will seize it at
+once, quickly write it down, and finish it at last.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, March 1st, 1831.
+
+While I write this date, I shrink from the thought of how time
+flies. Before this month is at an end the Holy Week begins, and
+when it is over, my stay in Rome will be drawing to a close. I now
+try to reflect whether I have made the best use of my time, and on
+every side I perceive a deficiency. If I could only compass one of
+my two symphonies! I must and will reserve the Italian one till I
+have seen Naples, which must play a part in it, but the other also
+seems to elude my grasp; the more I try to seize it and the nearer
+the end of this delightful quiet Roman period approaches, the more
+am I perplexed, and the less do I seem to succeed. I feel as if it
+will be long indeed before I can write again as freely as here, and
+so I am eager to finish what I have to do, but I make no progress.
+The "Walpurgis Night" alone gets on quickly, and I hope it will
+soon be accomplished. Besides, I cannot resist every day sketching,
+that I may carry away with me reminiscences of my favourite haunts.
+There is still much that I wish to see, so I perfectly well know
+that this month will suddenly come to an end, and much remain
+undone; and indeed it is quite too beautiful here.
+
+Rome is considerably changed, and neither so gay nor so cheerful as
+formerly.[16] Almost all my acquaintances are gone; the promenades
+and streets are deserted, the galleries closed, and it is
+impossible to gain admittance into them. All news from without
+almost entirely fails us, (for we saw the details about Bologna
+first in the 'Allgemeine Zeitung' yesterday;) people seldom or
+never congregate together; in fact, everything has subsided into
+entire rest; but then the weather is lovely, and no one can deprive
+us of this warm, balmy atmosphere. Those who are most to be pitied
+in the present state of affairs are the Vernet ladies, who are
+unpleasantly situated here. The hatred of the entire Roman populace
+is, strangely enough, directed against the French Pensionaries,
+believing that their influence alone could easily effect a
+revolution. Threatening anonymous letters have been repeatedly sent
+to Vernet; indeed he one day found an armed Transteverin stationed
+in front of the windows of his studio, who however took to flight
+when Vernet fetched his gun: and as the ladies are now entirely
+alone, and isolated in the villa, their family are naturally very
+uneasy. Still all continues quiet and serene within the city, and I
+am quite convinced it will remain so.
+
+  [16] Some disturbances had in the meantime broken out in the
+  Ecclesiastical States, at Bologna.
+
+The German painters are really more contemptible than I can tell
+you. Not only have they cut off their whiskers and moustaches, and
+their long hair and beards, openly declaring that as soon as all
+danger is at an end they will let them grow again, but these tall
+stalwart fellows go home as soon as it is dark, lock themselves in,
+and discuss their fears together. They call Horace Vernet a
+braggart, and yet he is very different from these miserable
+creatures, whose conduct makes me cordially despise them. Latterly
+I occasionally visited some of the modern studios. Thorwaldsen has
+just finished a statue in clay of Lord Byron. He is seated amidst
+ancient ruins, his feet resting on the capital of a column, while
+he is gazing into the distance, evidently about to write something
+on the tablets he holds in his hand. He is represented not in Roman
+costume, but in a simple modern dress, and I think it looks well,
+and does not destroy the general effect. The statue has the natural
+air and easy pose so remarkable in all this sculptor's works, and
+yet the poet looks sufficiently gloomy and elegiac, though not
+affected. I must some day write you a whole letter about the
+'Triumph of Alexander,' for never did any piece of sculpture make
+such an impression on me; I go there every week, and stand gazing
+at that alone, and enter Babylon along with the Conqueror. I lately
+called on A----; he has brought with him some admirable pencil
+sketches from Naples and Sicily, so I should be glad to take some
+hints from him, but I fear that he is a considerable exaggerator,
+and does not sketch faithfully. His landscape of the Colosseum,
+at H. B., is a beautiful romance; for I cannot say that in
+the original I ever perceived woods of large cypresses and
+orange-trees, or fountains or thickets in the centre, extending to
+the ruins. Moreover, _his_ moustaches have also disappeared.
+
+I have something amusing to tell you in conclusion. I wish, O my
+Fanny, that as a contrast to your Sunday harmony you had heard the
+music we perpetrated last Sunday evening. We wished to sing the
+Psalms of Marcello, being Lent, and the best dilettanti
+consequently assembled. A Papal singer was in the middle, a
+_maestro_ at the piano, and we sang. When a soprano solo came, all
+the ladies pressed forward, each insisting on singing it, so it was
+executed as a _tutti_. The tenor by my side never alighted on the
+right note, and rambled about in the most insecure regions. When I
+chimed in as second tenor, he dropped into my part, and when I
+tried to assist him, he seemed to think that was my original part,
+and kept steadily to his own. The Papal singer at one instant sang
+in the soprano falsetto, and presently took the first bass; soon
+after he quaked out the _alt_, and when all that was of no avail,
+he smiled sorrowfully across at me, and we nodded mysteriously to
+each other. The _maestro_, in striving to set us all right,
+repeatedly lost his own place, being a bar behind, or one in
+advance, and thus we sang with the most complete anarchy, just as
+we thought fit. Suddenly came a very solemn solo passage for the
+bass, which _all_ attacked valiantly, but at the second bar broke
+into a chorus of loud laughter, in which we unanimously joined, so
+the affair ended in high good-humour. The people who had come as
+audience talked at the pitch of their voices, and then went out and
+dispersed. Eynard came in and listened to our music for a time,
+then made a horrid grimace, and was seen no more. Farewell! Health
+and happiness attend you all!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, March 15th, 1831.
+
+The letters of introduction that R---- sent me, have been of no use
+to me here. L---- likewise, to whom I was presented by Bunsen, has
+not taken the smallest notice of me, and tries to look the other
+way when we meet. I rather suspect the man is an aristocrat. Albani
+admitted me, so I had the honour of conversing for half an hour
+with a Cardinal. After reading the introductory letter, he asked me
+if I was a pensioner of the King of Hanover. "No," said I. He
+supposed that I must have seen St. Peter's? "Yes," said I. As I
+knew Meyerbeer, he assured me that he could not endure his music;
+it was too scientific for him; indeed, everything he wrote was so
+learned, and so devoid of melody, that you at once saw that he was
+a German, and the Germans, _mon ami_, have not the most remote
+conception of what melody is! "No," said I. "In _my_ scores,"
+continued he, "all sing; not only the voices sing, but also the
+first violin sings, and the second violin also, and the oboe sings,
+and so it goes on, even to the horns, and last of all the
+double-bass sings too." I was naturally desirous, in all humility,
+to see some of his music; he was modest, however, and would show me
+nothing, but he said that wishing to make my stay in Rome a
+agreeable as possible, he hoped I would pay a visit to his villa,
+and I might take as many of my friends with me as I chose. It was
+near such and such a place. I thanked him very much, and
+subsequently boasted considerably of this gracious permission; but
+presently discovered that this villa is open to the public, and any
+one can go there who chooses. Since that time I have heard no more
+of him, and as this and some other instances have inspired me with
+respect, mingled with aversion, towards the highest Roman circles,
+I resolved not to deliver the letter to Gabrielli, and was
+satisfied by having the whole Bonaparte family pointed out to me on
+the promenade, where I met them daily.
+
+I think Mizkiewicz very tiresome. He possesses that kind of
+indifference which bores both himself and others, though the ladies
+persist in designating it melancholy and lassitude; but this makes
+it no better in my eyes. If he looks at St. Peter's, he deplores
+the times of the hierarchy; if the sky is blue and beautiful, he
+wishes it were dull and gloomy; if it is gloomy, he is freezing; if
+he sees the Colosseum, he wishes he had lived at that period. I
+wonder what sort of a figure he would have made in the days of
+Titus!
+
+You inquire about Horace Vernet, and this is, indeed, a pleasant
+theme. I believe I may say that I have learned something from him,
+and every one may do the same. He produces with incredible facility
+and freshness. When a form meets his eye which touches his
+feelings, he instantly adopts it, and while others are deliberating
+whether it can be called beautiful, and praising or censuring, he
+has long completed his work, entirely deranging our æsthetical
+standard. Though this facility cannot be acquired, still its
+principle is admirable, and the serenity which springs from it, and
+the energy it calls forth in working, nothing else can replace.
+
+Among the alleys of evergreen trees, where at this season of
+blossoms the fragrance is so charming, in the midst of the
+shrubberies and gardens of the Villa Medicis, stands a small house,
+in which as you approach you invariably hear a tumult,--shouting
+and wrangling, or a piece executed on a trumpet, or the barking of
+dogs; this is Vernet's _atelier_. The most picturesque disorder
+everywhere prevails; guns, a hunting-horn, a monkey, palettes, a
+couple of dead hares or rabbits; the walls covered with pictures,
+finished and unfinished. "The Investiture of the National Cockade"
+(an eccentric picture which does not please me), portraits recently
+begun of Thorwaldsen, Eynard, Latour-Maubourg, some horses, a
+sketch of Judith, and studies for it; the portrait of the Pope, a
+couple of Moorish heads, bagpipers, Papal soldiers, my unworthy
+self, Cain and Abel, and last of all a drawing of the interior of
+the place itself, all hang up in his studio.
+
+Lately his hands were quite full, owing to the number of portraits
+bespoken from him; but in the street, he saw one of the Campagna
+peasants, who are armed and mounted by Government, and ride about
+Rome. The singular costume caught the artist's eye, and next day he
+began a picture representing a similar peasant, sitting on his
+horse in bad weather in the Campagna, and seizing his gun in order
+to take aim at some one with it; in the distance are visible a
+small troop of soldiers, and the desolate plain. The minute details
+of the weapon, where the peasant peeps through the soldier's
+uniform, the wretched horse and its shabby trappings, the
+discomfort prevalent throughout, and the Italian phlegm in the
+bearded fellow, make a charming little picture; and no one can help
+envying him, who sees the real delight with which his brush
+traverses the stretched canvas, at one moment putting in a little
+rivulet, and a couple of soldiers, and a button on the saddle; then
+lining the soldier's great-coat with green. Numbers of people come
+to look on: during my first sitting twenty persons, at least,
+arrived one after the other. Countess E---- asked him to allow her
+to be present when he was at work; but when he darted on it as a
+hungry man does on food, her amazement was great. The whole family
+are, as I told you, good people, and when old Charles talks about
+his father Joseph, you must feel respect for them, and I maintain
+that they are noble. Good-bye, for it is late, and I must send my
+letter to the Post.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, March 29th, 1831.
+
+In the midst of the Holy Week. To-morrow for the first time I am to
+hear the Miserere, and while you last Sunday performed "The
+Passion," the Cardinals and all the priesthood here received
+twisted palms and olive-branches. The Stabat Mater of Palestrina
+was sung, and there was a grand procession. My work has got on
+badly during the last few days. Spring is in all her bloom; a
+genial blue sky without, such as we at most only dream of, and a
+journey to Naples in my every thought; so even a quiet time to
+write is not to be found. C----, who is usually a cool fellow, has
+written me such a glowing letter from Naples! The most prosaic men
+become poetical when they speak of it. The finest season of the
+year in Italy, is from the 15th of April to the 15th of May. Who
+can wonder that I find it impossible to return to my misty Scotch
+mood? I have therefore laid aside the Scotch symphony for the
+present, but hope to write out the "Walpurgis Night" here. I shall
+manage to do so if I work hard to-day and to-morrow, and if we have
+bad weather, for really a fine day is too great a temptation. As
+soon as an impediment occurs, I hope to find some resource in the
+open air, so I go out and think of anything and everything but my
+composition, and do nothing but lounge about, and when the church
+bells begin to ring, it is the Ave Maria already. All I want now is
+a short overture. If I can accomplish this, the thing is complete,
+and I can write it out in a couple of days. Then I have done with
+music, and leaving all music-paper here, I shall go off to Naples,
+where, please God, I mean to do nothing.
+
+Two French friends of mine have tempted me to _flâner_ with them a
+good deal of late. When they are together, it is either a perpetual
+tragedy, or comedy,--as you will. Y---- distorts everything,
+without a spark of talent, always groping in the dark, but
+esteeming himself the creator of a new world; writing moreover the
+most frightful things, and yet dreaming and thinking of nothing but
+Beethoven, Schiller, and Goethe; a victim at the same time to the
+most boundless vanity, and looking down condescendingly on Mozart
+and Haydn, so that all his enthusiasm seems to me very doubtful.
+Z---- has been toiling for three months at a little rondo on a
+Portuguese theme; he arranges neatly and brilliantly, and according
+to rule, and he now intends to set about composing six waltzes, and
+is in a state of perfect ecstasy if I will only play him over a
+number of Vienna waltzes. He has a high esteem for Beethoven, but
+also for Rossini and for Bellini, and no doubt for Auber,--in
+short, for everybody. Then my turn comes to be praised, who would
+be only too glad to murder Y----, till he chances to eulogize
+Gluck, when I can quite agree with him. I like nevertheless to walk
+about with these two, for they are the only musicians here, and
+both very pleasant, amiable persons. All this forms an amusing
+contrast.
+
+You say, dear mother, that Y---- must have a fixed aim in his art;
+but this is far from being my opinion. I believe he wishes to be
+married, and is in fact worse than the other, because he is by far
+the most affected of the two. I really cannot stand his obtrusive
+enthusiasm, and the gloomy despondency he assumes before
+ladies,--this stereotyped genius in black and white; and if he were
+not a Frenchman, (and it is always pleasant to associate with them,
+as they have invariably something interesting to say,) it would be
+beyond endurance. A week hence, I shall probably write you my last
+letter from Rome, and then you shall hear of me from Naples. It is
+still quite uncertain whether I go to Sicily or not; I almost think
+not, as in any event I must have recourse to a steamboat, and it is
+not yet settled that one is to go.
+
+         In haste, yours, FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, April 4th, 1831.
+
+The Holy Week is over, and my passport to Naples prepared. My room
+begins to look empty, and my winter in Rome is now among my
+reminiscences of the past. I intend to leave this in a few days,
+and my next letter (D. V.) shall be from Naples. Interesting and
+amusing as the winter in Rome has been, it has closed with a truly
+memorable week; for what I have seen and heard far surpassed my
+expectations, and being the conclusion, I will endeavour in this,
+my last letter from Rome, to give you a full description of it
+all. People have often both zealously praised and censured the
+ceremonies of the Holy Week, and have yet omitted, as is often the
+case, the chief point, namely its perfection as a complete whole.
+My father may probably remember the description of Mdlle. de R----,
+who after all only did what most people do, who write or talk about
+music and art, when in a hoarse and prosaic voice she attempted at
+dinner to give us some idea of the fine clear Papal choir. Many
+others have given the mere music, and been dissatisfied, because
+external adjuncts are required to produce the full effect. Those
+persons may be in the right; still so long as these indispensable
+externals are there, and especially in such entire perfection, so
+long will it impress others; and just as I feel convinced that
+place, time, order, the vast crowd of human beings awaiting in the
+most profound silence the moment for the music to begin, contribute
+largely to the effect, so do I contemn the idea of deliberately
+separating what ought in fact to be indivisible, and this for the
+purpose of exhibiting a certain portion, which may thus be
+depreciated. That man must be despicable indeed, on whom the
+devotion and reverence of a vast assemblage did not make a
+corresponding impression of devotion and reverence, even if they
+were worshipping the Golden Calf; let him alone destroy this, who
+can replace it by something better.
+
+Whether one person repeats it from another, whether it comes up to
+its great reputation, or is merely the effect of the imagination,
+is quite the same thing. It suffices that we have a perfect
+totality, which has exercised the most powerful influence for
+centuries past, and still exercises it, and therefore I reverence
+it, as I do every species of real perfection. I leave it to
+theologians to pronounce on its religious influence, for the
+various opinions on that point are of no great value. There is more
+to be considered than the mere ceremonies: for me it is sufficient,
+as I already said, that in any sphere the object should be fully
+carried out, so far as ability will permit, with fidelity and
+conscientiousness, to call forth my respect and sympathy. Thus you
+must not expect from me a formal critique on the singing, as to
+whether they intoned correctly or incorrectly, in tune or out of
+tune, or whether the compositions are fine. I would rather strive
+to show you, that as a whole the affair cannot fail to make a
+solemn impression, and that everything contributes to this result,
+and as last week I enjoyed music, forms, and ceremonies, without
+severing them, revelling in the perfect whole, so I do not intend
+to separate them in this letter. The technical part, to which I
+naturally paid particular attention, I mean to detail more minutely
+to Zelter.
+
+The first ceremony was on Palm Sunday, when the concourse of people
+was so great, that I could not make my way through the crowd to my
+usual place on what is called the Prelates' Bench, but was forced
+to remain among the Guard of Honour, where indeed I had a very good
+view of the solemnities, but could not follow the singing
+properly, as they pronounced the words very indistinctly, and on
+that day I had no book. The result was that on this first day, the
+various antiphons, Gospels, and Psalms, and the mode of chanting,
+instead of reading, which is employed here in its primitive form,
+made the most confused and singular impression on me. I had no
+clear conception what rule they followed with regard to the various
+cadences. I took considerable pains gradually to discover their
+method, and succeeded so well, that at the end of the Holy Week I
+could have sung with them. I thus also escaped the extreme
+weariness, so universally complained of during the endless Psalms
+before the Miserere; for I quickly detected any variety in the
+monotony, and when perfectly assured of any particular cadence, I
+instantly wrote it down; so I made out by degrees (which indeed I
+deserved) the melodies of eight Psalms. I also noted down the
+antiphons, etc., and was thus incessantly occupied and interested.
+
+The first Sunday, however, as I already told you, I could not make
+it all out satisfactorily: I only knew that the choir sang "Hosanna
+in excelsis," and intoned various hymns, while twisted palms were
+offered to the Pope, which he distributed among the Cardinals.
+These palms are long branches decorated with buttons, crosses, and
+crowns, all entirely made of dried palm-leaves, which makes them
+look like gold. The Cardinals, who are seated in the Chapel in the
+form of a quadrangle, with the abbati at their feet, now advance
+each in turn to receive their palms, with which they return to
+their places; then come the bishops, monks, abbati, and all the
+other orders of the priesthood; the Papal singers, the knights, and
+others, who receive olive-branches entwined with palm-leaves. This
+makes a long procession, during which the choir continues to sing
+unremittingly. The abbati hold the long palms of their cardinals
+like the lances of sentinels, slanting them on the ground before
+them, and at this moment there is a brilliancy of colour in the
+chapel that I never before saw at any ceremony. There were the
+Cardinals in their gold embroidered robes and red caps, and the
+violet abbati in front of them, with golden palms in their hands,
+and further in advance, the gaudy servants of the Pope, the Greek
+priests, the patriarchs in the most gorgeous attire; the Capuchins
+with long white beards, and all the other religious Orders; then
+again the Swiss, in their popinjay uniforms, all carrying green
+olive-branches, while singing is going on the whole time; though
+certainly it is scarcely possible to distinguish what is being
+sung, yet the mere sound is sufficient to delight the ear.
+
+The Pope's throne is then carried in, on which he is elevated in
+all processions, and where I saw Pius VIII. enthroned on the day of
+my arrival (_vide_ the 'Heliodorus' of Raphael, where he is
+portrayed). The Cardinals, two and two, with their palms, head the
+procession, and the folding doors of the chapel being thrown open,
+it slowly defiles through them. The singing, which has hitherto
+incessantly prevailed, like an element, becomes fainter and
+fainter, for the singers also walk in the procession, and at length
+are only indistinctly heard, the sound dying away in the distance.
+Then a choir in the chapel bursts forth with a query, to which the
+distant one breathes a faint response; and so it goes on for a
+time, till the procession again draws near, and the choirs reunite.
+Let them sing how or what they please, this cannot fail to produce
+a fine effect; and though it is quite true that nothing can be more
+monotonous, and even devoid of form, than the hymns _all' unisono_,
+being without any proper connection, and sung _fortissimo_
+throughout, still I appeal to the impression that as a _whole_ it
+must make on every one. After the procession returns, the Gospel is
+chanted in the most singular tone, and is succeeded by the Mass. I
+must not omit here to make mention of my favourite moment; I mean
+the Credo. The priest takes his place for the first time in the
+centre, before the altar, and after a short pause, intones in his
+hoarse old voice the Credo of Sebastian Bach. When he has finished,
+the priests stand up, the Cardinals leave their seats, and advance
+into the middle of the chapel, where they form a circle, all
+repeating the continuation in a loud voice, "Patrem omnipotentem,"
+etc. The choir then chimes in, singing the same words. When I for
+the first time heard my well-known
+
+  [Music: Cre-do in u-num De-um]
+
+and all the grave monks round me began to recite in loud and eager
+tones, I felt quite excited, for this is the moment I still like
+the best of all. After the ceremony, Santini made me a present of
+his olive-branch, which I carried in my hand the whole day when
+I was walking about, for the weather was beautiful. The Stabat
+Mater which succeeds the Credo, made much less effect; they
+sang it incorrectly and out of tune, and likewise curtailed it
+considerably. The 'Sing Akademie' executes it infinitely better.
+There is nothing on Monday or Tuesday; but on Wednesday, at
+half-past four, the nocturns begin.
+
+The Psalms are sung in alternate verses by two choirs, though
+invariably by one class of voices, basses or tenors. For an hour
+and a half, therefore, nothing but the most monotonous music is
+heard; the Psalms are only once interrupted by the Lamentations,
+and this is the first moment when, after a long time, a complete
+chord is given. This chord is very softly intoned, and the whole
+piece sung _pianissimo_, while the Psalms are shouted out as much
+as possible, and always upon one note, and the words uttered with
+the utmost rapidity, a cadence occurring at the end of each verse,
+which defines the different characteristics of the various
+melodies. It is not therefore surprising that the mere soft sound
+(in G major) of the first Lamentation, should produce so touching
+an effect. Once more the single tone recommences; a wax light is
+extinguished at the end of each Psalm, so that in the course of an
+hour and a half the fifteen lights round the altar are all out; six
+large-sized candles still burn in the vestibule. The whole strength
+of the choir, with alti and soprani, etc., intone _fortissimo_ and
+_unisono_, a new melody, the "Canticum Zachariæ," in D minor,
+singing it slowly and solemnly in the deepening gloom; the last
+remaining lights are then extinguished. The Pope leaves his throne,
+and falls on his knees before the altar, while all around do the
+same, repeating a paternoster _sub silentio_; that is, a pause
+ensues, during which you know that each Catholic present says the
+Lord's Prayer, and immediately afterwards the Miserere begins
+_pianissimo_ thus:--
+
+  [Music: mi-se-re-re me-i]
+
+This is to me the most sublime moment of the whole. You can easily
+picture to yourself what follows, but not this commencement. The
+continuation, which is the Miserere of Allegri, is a simple
+sequence of chords, grounded either on tradition, or what appears
+to me much more probable, merely embellishments, introduced by some
+clever _maestro_ for the fine voices at his disposal, and
+especially for a very high soprano. These _embellimenti_ always
+recur on the same chords, and as they are cleverly constructed,
+and beautifully adapted for the voice, it is invariably pleasing to
+hear them repeated. I could not discover anything unearthly or
+mysterious in the music; indeed, I am perfectly contented that its
+beauty should be earthly and comprehensible. I refer you, dearest
+Fanny, to my letter to Zelter. On the first day they sang Baini's
+Miserere.
+
+On Thursday, at nine o'clock in the morning, the solemnities
+recommenced, and lasted till one o'clock. There was High Mass, and
+afterwards a procession. The Pope conferred his benediction from
+the Loggia of the Quirinal, and washed the feet of thirteen
+priests, who are supposed to represent the pilgrims, and were
+seated in a row, wearing white gowns and white caps, and who
+afterwards dine. The crowd of English ladies was extraordinary, and
+the whole affair repugnant to my feelings. The Psalms began again
+in the afternoon, and lasted on this occasion till half past seven.
+Some portions of the Miserere were taken from Baini, but the
+greater part were Allegri's. It was almost dark in the chapel when
+the Miserere commenced. I clambered up a tall ladder standing there
+by chance, and so I had the whole chapel crowded with people, and
+the kneeling Pope and his Cardinals, and the music, beneath me. It
+had a splendid effect. On Friday forenoon the chapel was stripped
+of every decoration, and the Pope and Cardinals in mourning. The
+history of the Passion, according to St. John, the music by
+Vittoria, was sung; then the Improperia of Palestrina, during
+which the Pope and all the others, taking off their shoes, advance
+to the cross and adore it. In the evening Baini's Miserere was
+given, which they sang infinitely the best.
+
+Early on Saturday, in the baptistery of the Lateran, Heathens,
+Jews, and Mahomedans were baptized, all represented by a little
+child, who screeched the whole time, and subsequently some young
+priests received consecration for the first time. On Sunday the
+Pope himself performed High Mass in the Quirinal, and subsequently
+pronounced his benediction on the people, and then all was over. It
+is now Saturday, the 9th of April, and to-morrow at an early hour I
+get into a carriage and set off for Naples, where a new style of
+beauty awaits me. You will perceive by the end of this letter that
+I write in haste. This is my last day, and a great deal yet to be
+done. I do not therefore finish my letter to Zelter, but will send
+it from Naples. I wish my description to be correct, and my
+approaching journey distracts my attention sadly. Thus I am off to
+Naples; the weather is clearing up, and the sun shining, which it
+has not done for some days past. My passport is prepared, the
+carriage ordered, and I am looking forward to the months of spring.
+Adieu!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Naples, April 13th, 1831.
+
+     Dear Rebecca,
+
+This must stand in lieu of a birthday letter: may it wear a holiday
+aspect for you! It arrives late in the day, but with equally
+sincere good wishes. Your birthday itself I passed in a singular
+but delightful manner, though I could not write, having neither
+pens nor ink; in fact, I was in the very middle of the Pontine
+Marshes. May the ensuing year bring you every happiness, and may we
+meet somewhere! If you were thinking of me on that day, our
+thoughts must have met either on the Brenner or at Inspruck; for I
+was constantly thinking of you. Even without looking at the date of
+this letter, you will at once perceive by its tone that I am in
+Naples. I have not yet been able to compass one serious quiet
+reflection, there is everywhere such jovial life here, inviting you
+to do nothing, and to think of nothing, and even the example of so
+many thousand people has an irresistible influence. I do not indeed
+intend that this should continue, but I see plainly that it must go
+on for the first few days. I stand for hours on my balcony, gazing
+at Vesuvius and the Bay.
+
+But I must now endeavour to resume my old descriptive style, or my
+materials will accumulate so much that I shall become confused, and
+I fear you may not be able to follow me properly. So much that is
+novel crowds on me, that a journal would be requisite to detail to
+you my life and my state of excitement. So I begin by acknowledging
+that I deeply regretted leaving Rome. My life there was so quiet,
+and yet so full of interest, having made many kind and friendly
+acquaintances, with whom I had become so domesticated, that the
+last days of my stay, with all their discomforts and perpetual
+running about, seemed doubly odious. The last evening I went to
+Vernet's to thank him for my portrait, which is now finished, and
+to take leave of him. We had some music, talked politics, and
+played chess, and then I went down the Monte Pincio to my own
+house, packed up my things, and the next morning drove off with my
+travelling companions. As I gazed out of the cabriolet at the
+scenery, I could dream to my heart's desire. When we arrived at our
+night quarters, we all went out walking. The two days glided past
+more like a pleasure excursion than a journey.
+
+The road from Rome to Naples is indeed the most luxuriant that I
+know, and the whole mode of travelling most agreeable. You fly
+through the plain; for a very slight gratuity the postilions gallop
+their horses like mad, which is very advisable in the Marshes. If
+you wish to contemplate the scenery, you have only to abstain from
+offering any gratuity, and you are soon driven slowly enough. The
+road from Albano, by Ariccia and Genzano, as far as Velletri, runs
+between hills, and is shaded by trees of every kind; uphill and
+downhill, through avenues of elms, past monasteries and shrines. On
+one side is the Campagna, with its heather, and its bright hues;
+beyond comes the sea, glittering charmingly in the sunshine, and
+above, the clearest sky; for since Sunday morning the weather has
+been glorious.
+
+Well! we drove into Velletri, our night quarters, where a great
+Church festival was going on. Handsome women with primitive faces
+were pacing the alleys in groups, and men were standing together
+wrapped in cloaks, in the street. The church was decorated with
+garlands of green leaves, and as we drove past it we heard the
+sounds of a double bass and some violins; fireworks were prepared
+in the square; the sun went down clear and serene, and the Pontine
+Marshes, with their thousand colours, and the rocks rearing their
+heads one by one against the horizon, indicated the course we were
+to pursue on the following day. After supper I resolved to go out
+again for a short time, and discovered a kind of illumination; the
+streets were swarming with people, and when I at last came to the
+spot where the church stood, I saw, on turning the corner, that the
+whole street had burning torches on each side, and in the middle
+the people were walking up and down, crowding together, and pleased
+to see each other so distinctly at night. I cannot tell you what a
+pretty sight it was. The concourse was greatest before the church;
+I pressed forward into it along with the rest. The little building
+was filled with people kneeling, adoring the Host, which was
+exposed; no one spoke a word, nor was there any music. This
+stillness, the lighted church, and the many kneeling women with
+white handkerchiefs on their heads, and white gowns, had a striking
+effect. When I left the church a shrewd, handsome Italian boy
+explained the whole festival, assuring me that it would have been
+far finer had it not been for the recent disturbances, for they had
+been the cause of depriving the people of the horseraces, and
+barrels of pitch, etc., and on this account it was unlucky that the
+Austrians had not come sooner.
+
+The following morning, at six o'clock, we pursued our way through
+the Pontine Marshes. It is a species of Bergstrasse. You drive
+through a straight avenue of trees along a plain. On one side of
+the avenue is a continued chain of hills, on the other the Marshes.
+They are, however, covered with innumerable flowers, which smell
+very sweet; but in the long-run this becomes very stupefying, and I
+distinctly felt the oppression of the atmosphere, in spite of the
+fine weather. A canal runs along beside the _chaussée_, constructed
+by the orders of Pius VI. to form a conduit for the marshes, where
+we saw a number of buffaloes wallowing, their heads emerging out of
+the water, and apparently enjoying themselves. The straight, level
+road has a singular appearance. You see the chain of hills at the
+end of the avenue when you come to the first station, and again at
+the second and third, the only difference being that as you advance
+so many miles nearer, the hills loom gradually larger. Terracina,
+which is situated exactly at the end of this avenue, is invisible
+till you come quite close to it. On making a sudden turn to the
+left, round the corner of a rock, the whole expanse of the sea lies
+before you. Citron-gardens, and palms, and a variety of plants of
+Southern growth, clothe the declivity in front of the town; towers
+appearing above the thickets, and the harbour projecting into the
+sea. To me, the finest object in nature is, and always will be,
+the ocean. I love it almost more than the sky. Nothing in Naples
+made a more enchanting impression on my mind than the sea, and I
+always feel happy when I see before me the spacious surface of
+waters.
+
+The South, properly speaking, begins at Terracina. This is another
+land, and every plant and every bush reminds you of it. Above all,
+the two mighty ridges of hills delighted me, between which the road
+runs; they were totally devoid of bushes or trees, but clothed
+entirely with masses of golden wall-flowers, so that they had a
+bright yellow hue, and the fragrance was almost too strong. There
+is a great want of grass and large trees. The old robbers' nests of
+Fondi and Itri looked very piratical and gloomy. The houses are
+built against the walls of the rocks, and there are likewise some
+large towers of the date of the Middle Ages. Many sentinels and
+posts were stationed on the tops of the hills; but we made out our
+journey without any adventure. We remained all night in Mola di
+Gaeta; there we saw the renowned balcony whence you look over
+orange and citron groves to the blue sea, with Vesuvius and the
+islands in the far distance. This was on the 11th of April. As I
+had been celebrating your birthday all day long in my own thoughts,
+I could not in the evening resist informing my companions that it
+was your birthday; so your health was drunk again and again. An old
+Englishman, who was of the party, wished me a "happy return to my
+sister." I emptied the glass to your health, and thought of you.
+Remain unchanged till we meet again.
+
+With such thoughts in my head, I went in the evening to the
+citron-garden, close to the sea-shore, and listened to the waves
+rolling in from afar, and breaking on the shore, and sometimes
+gently rippling and splashing. It was indeed a heavenly night.
+Among a thousand other thoughts, Grillparzer's poem recurred to my
+memory, which it is almost impossible to set to music; for which
+reason, I suppose, Fanny has composed a charming melody on it; but
+I do not jest when I say that I sang the song over repeatedly to
+myself, for I was standing on the very spot he describes. The sea
+had subsided, and was now calm, and at rest; this was the first
+song. The second followed next day, for the sea was like a meadow
+or pure ether as you gazed at it, and pretty women nodded their
+heads, and so did olives and cypresses; but they were all equally
+brown, so I remained in a poetic mood.
+
+What is it that shines through the leaves, and glitters like gold?
+Only cartridges and sabres; for the King had been reviewing some
+troops in Sant' Agata, and soldiers defiled on both sides of the
+path, who had the more merit in my eyes because they resembled the
+Prussians, and for a long time past I have seen only Papal
+soldiers. Some carried dark-lanterns on their muskets, as they had
+been marching all night. The whole effect was bold and gay. We now
+came to a short rocky pass, from which you descend into the valley
+of Campana, the most enchanting spot I have ever seen; it is like
+a boundless garden, covered entirely with plants and vegetation as
+far as the eye can reach. On one side are the blue outlines of the
+sea, on the other an undulating range of hills above which snowy
+peaks project; and at a great distance Vesuvius and the islands,
+bathed in blue vapours, start up on the level surface; large
+avenues of trees intersect the vast space, and a verdant growth
+forces its way from under every stone. Everywhere you see grotesque
+aloes and cactuses, and the fragrance and vegetation are quite
+unparalleled.
+
+The pleasure we enjoy in England through men, we here enjoy through
+nature; and as there is no corner there, however small, of which
+some one has not taken possession in order to cultivate and adorn
+it, so here there is no spot which Nature has not appropriated,
+bringing forth on it flowers and herbs, and all that is beautiful.
+The Campana valley is fruitfulness itself. On the whole of the vast
+immeasurable surface bounded in the far distance by blue hills and
+a blue sea, nothing but green meets the eye. At last you come to
+Capua. I cannot blame Hannibal for remaining too long there. From
+Capua to Naples the road runs uninterruptedly between trees, with
+hanging vines, till at the end of the avenue, Vesuvius, and the
+sea, with Capri, and a mass of houses, lie before you. I am living
+here in St. Lucia as if in heaven; for in the first place I see
+before me Vesuvius, and the hills as far as Castellamare, and the
+bay, and in the second place, I am living up three stories high.
+Unfortunately that traitor Vesuvius does not smoke at all, and
+looks precisely like any other fine mountain; but at night the
+people float in lighted boats on the Bay, to catch sword-fish. This
+has a pretty enough effect. Farewell!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Naples, April 10th, 1831.
+
+We are so accustomed to find that everything turns out quite
+differently from what we expected and calculated, that you will
+feel no surprise when instead of a letter like a journal, you
+receive a very short one, merely saying that I am quite well, and
+little else.
+
+As for the scenery, I cannot describe it, and if you have no
+conception of what it really is, after all that has been said and
+written on the subject, there is little chance of my enlightening
+you; for what makes it so indescribably beautiful, is precisely
+that it is not of a nature to admit of description. Any other
+detail I could send you would be about my life here; but it is so
+simple, that a very few words suffice to depict it. I do not wish
+to make any acquaintances, for I am resolved not to remain here
+longer than a few weeks. I intend to make various excursions to see
+the country, and all I desire here, is to become thoroughly
+intimate with nature: so I go to bed at nine o'clock, and rise at
+five, to refresh myself by gazing from my balcony at Vesuvius, the
+sea, and the coast of Sorrento, in the bright morning light. I
+have also taken very long solitary rambles, discovering beautiful
+views for myself, and I have infinite satisfaction in finding that
+what I consider the loveliest spot of all is almost entirely
+unknown to the Neapolitans. During these excursions I sought out
+some house on a height, to which I scrambled up; or else merely
+followed any path I fancied, allowing myself to be surprised by
+night and moonshine, and making acquaintance with vine-dressers, in
+order to learn my way back; arriving at last at home about nine
+o'clock, very tired, through the Villa Reale. The view from this
+villa, of the sea and the enchanting Capri by moonlight, is truly
+charming, and so is the almost overpowering fragrance of the
+acacias in full bloom, and the fruit-trees scattered all over with
+rose-coloured blossoms, looking like trees with pink foliage,--all
+this is indeed quite indescribable.
+
+As I live chiefly with and in nature, I can write less than usual;
+perhaps we may talk it over when we meet, and the sketches in our
+sitting-room at home will furnish materials and reminiscences for
+conversation. One thing I must not however omit, dear Fanny, which
+is, that I quite approve of your taste when I recall what you told
+me years ago that your favorite spot was the island of Nisida.
+Perhaps you may have forgotten this, but I have not. It looks as if
+it were made expressly for pleasure-grounds. On emerging from the
+thicket of Bagnuolo, Nisida has quite a startling effect, rising
+out of the sea, so near, so large and so green; while the other
+islands, Procida, Ischia, and Capri, stand afar off, and indistinct
+in their blue tints. After the murder of Cæsar, Brutus took refuge
+in this island, and Cicero visited him there; the sea lay between
+them then, and the rocks, covered with vegetation, bent over the
+sea, just as they do now. _These_ are the antiquities that interest
+me, and are infinitely more suggestive than crumbling mason-work.
+There is a degree of innate superstition and dishonesty among the
+people here that is totally inconceivable, and this has often even
+marred my pleasure in nature; for the Swiss, of whom my father
+complained so much, are positively guileless, primitive beings,
+compared with the Neapolitans. My landlord invariably gives me too
+little change for a piastre, and when I tell him of it, he coolly
+fetches the remainder. The only acquaintances I intend to make here
+are musical ones, that I may leave nothing incomplete,--for
+instance Fodor, who does not sing in public, Donizetti, Coccia,
+etc.
+
+I now conclude by a few words to you, dear Father. You write to me
+that you disapprove of my going to Sicily; I have consequently
+given up this plan, though I cannot deny that I do so with great
+reluctance, for it was really more than a mere _whim_ on my part.
+There is no danger to be apprehended, and, as if on purpose to vex
+me, a steamer leaves this city on the 4th of May, which is to make
+the entire tour; and a good many Germans, and probably the minister
+here, are to take advantage of it. I should have liked to see a
+mountain vomiting forth flames, as Vesuvius has been hitherto so
+unkind as not even to smoke. Your instructions however have till
+now so entirely coincided with my own inclinations, that I cannot
+allow the first opportunity I have of showing my obedience to your
+wishes (even when opposed to my own), to pass without complying
+with them, so I have effaced Sicily from my travelling route.
+Perhaps we may meet sooner in consequence of this; and now
+farewell, for I am going to walk to Capo di Monte.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Naples, April 27th, 1831.
+
+It is now nearly a fortnight since I have heard from you. I do
+earnestly hope that nothing unpleasant has occurred, and every day
+I expect the post will bring me tidings of you all. My letters from
+Naples are of little value, for I am too deeply absorbed here to be
+able easily to extricate myself, and to write descriptive letters.
+Besides, when we had bad weather lately, I took advantage of it to
+resume my labours, and zealously applied myself to my "Walpurgis
+Night," which daily increases in interest for me, so I employ every
+spare moment in completing it. I hope to finish it in a few days,
+and I think it will turn out well. If I continue in my present
+mood, I shall finish my Italian symphony also in Italy, in which
+case I shall have a famous store to bring home with me, the fruits
+of this winter. Moreover every day I have something new to see. I
+generally make my excursions with the Schadows.
+
+Yesterday we went to Pompeii. It looks as if it had been burnt
+down, or like a recently deserted city. As both of these always
+seem to me deeply affecting, the impression made on me was the most
+melancholy that I have yet experienced in Italy. It is as if the
+inhabitants had just gone out, and yet almost every object tells of
+another religion and another life; in short, of seventeen hundred
+years ago; and the French and English ladies scramble about as
+gaily as possible, and sketch it all. It is the old tragedy of the
+Past and the Present, a problem I never can solve. Lively Naples is
+indeed a pleasant contrast; but it is painful to see the crowd of
+wretched beggars who waylay you in every street and path, swarming
+round the carriage the instant it stops. The old white-haired men
+particularly distress me, and such a mass of misery exceeds all
+belief. If you are walking on the sea-shore, and gazing at the
+islands, and then chance to look round at the land, you find
+yourself the centre of a group of cripples, who make a trade of
+their infirmities; or you discover (which lately happened to me)
+that you are surrounded by thirty or forty children, all whining
+out their favourite phrase, "Muoio di fame," and rattling their
+jaws to show that they have nothing to eat. All this forms a most
+repulsive contrast; and yet to me it is still more repugnant that
+you must entirely renounce the great pleasure of seeing happy
+faces; for even when you have given the richest gratuities to
+guards, waiters, or workpeople, in short, to whom you will, the
+invariable rejoinder is, "Nienti di più?" in which case you may be
+very sure that you have given too much. If it is the proper sum,
+they give it back with the greatest apparent indignation, and then
+return and beg to have it again. These are trifles, certainly, but
+they show the lamentable condition of the people. I have even gone
+so far as to feel provoked with the perpetual smiling aspect of
+nature, when in the most retired spots troops of beggars everywhere
+assailed me, some even persisting in following me a long way. It is
+only when I am quietly seated in my own room, gazing down on the
+Bay, and on Vesuvius, that being totally alone with them I feel
+really cheerful and happy.
+
+To-day we are to ascend the hill to visit the Camaldoli Monastery,
+and to-morrow, if the weather permits, we proceed to Procida and
+Ischia. I go this evening to Madame Fodor's with Donizetti,
+Benedict, etc. She is very kind and amiable towards me, and her
+singing has given me great pleasure, for she has wonderful
+facility, and executes her _fiorituri_ with so much taste, that it
+is easy to see how many things Sonntag acquired from her,
+especially the _mezza voce_, which Fodor, whose voice is no longer
+full and fresh, most prudently and judiciously introduces into many
+passages. As she is not singing at the theatre, I am most fortunate
+in having made her acquaintance personally. The theatre is now
+closed for some weeks, because the blood of St. Januarius is
+shortly to liquefy. What I heard at the opera previously did not
+repay the trouble of going. The orchestra, like that in Rome, was
+worse than in any part of Germany, and not even one tolerable
+female singer. Tamburini alone, with his vigorous bass voice,
+imparted some life to the whole. Those who wish to hear Italian
+operas, must now-a-days go to Paris or London. Heaven grant that
+this may not eventually be the case with German music also!
+
+I must however return to my "Witches," so you must forgive my not
+writing any more to-day. This whole letter seems to hover in
+uncertainty, or rather I do so in my "Walpurgis Night," whether I
+am to introduce the big drum or not. "Zacken, Gabeln, und wilde
+Klapperstöcke," seem to force me to the big drum, but moderation
+dissuades me. I certainly am the only person who ever composed for
+the scene on the Brocken without employing a piccolo-flute, but I
+can't help regretting the big drum, and before I can receive
+Fanny's advice, the "Walpurgis Night" will be finished and packed
+up. I shall then set off again on my travels, and Heaven knows what
+I may have in my head by that time. I feel convinced that Fanny
+would say _yes_; still, I feel very doubtful; at all events a vast
+noise is indispensable.
+
+Oh, Rebecca! can you not procure the words of some songs, and send
+them to me? I feel quite in the humour for them, and you must
+require something new to sing. If you can furnish me with some
+pretty verses, old or new, gay or grave, I will compose something
+in a style to suit your voice. I am at your service for any compact
+of this kind. Pray do send me wherewithal to work at, during my
+journey, in the inns. Now, farewell to you all! May you be as happy
+as I ever wish you to be, and think of me!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Naples, May 17th, 1831.
+
+On Saturday, the 14th of May, at two o'clock, I told my driver to
+turn the carriage. We were opposite the Temple of Ceres at Pæstum,
+the most southern point of my journey. The carriage consequently
+turned towards the north, and from that moment, as I journey
+onwards, I am every hour drawing nearer to you. It is about a year
+now since I travelled with my father to Dessau and Leipzig; the
+time in fact exactly corresponds, for it was about the half-year. I
+have made good use of the past year. I have acquired considerable
+experience and many new impressions. Both in Rome and here I have
+been very busy, but no change has occurred in my outward
+circumstances; and till the beginning of the new year, in fact so
+long as I am in Italy, it will probably be the same. This period
+has not however been less valuable to me than some when outwardly,
+and in the opinion of others, I have appeared to make greater
+progress; for there must always be a close connection between the
+two. If I have gathered experience, it cannot fail to influence me
+outwardly, and I shall allow no opportunity to escape to show that
+it has done so. Possibly some such may occur before the end of my
+journey, so I may for the present continue to enjoy nature, and the
+blue sky, during the months that still remain for me in Italy,
+without thinking of anything else; for _there_ alone lies true art,
+now in Italy,--_there_ and in her monuments; and there it will ever
+remain; and there we shall ever find it, for our instruction and
+delight, so long as Vesuvius stands, and so long as the balmy air,
+and the sea, and the trees do not pass away.
+
+In spite of all this, I am enough of a musician to own that I do
+heartily long once more to hear an orchestra or a full chorus where
+there is at least some sound, for here there is nothing of the
+sort. This is _our_ peculiar province, and to be so long deprived
+of such an element, leaves a sad void. The orchestra and chorus
+here are like those in our second-rate provincial towns, only more
+harsh and incorrect. The first violinist, all through the opera,
+beats the four quarters of each bar on a tin candle-stick, which is
+often more distinctly heard than the voices (it sounds somewhat
+like obbligati castanets, only louder); and yet in spite of this
+the voices are never together. Every little instrumental solo is
+adorned with old-fashioned flourishes, and a bad tone pervades the
+whole performance, which is totally devoid of genius, fire, or
+spirit. The singers are the worst Italian ones I ever heard
+anywhere (except, indeed, in Italy), and those who wish to have a
+true idea of Italian singing must go to Paris or to London. Even
+the Dresden company, whom I heard last year in Leipzig, are
+superior to any here. This is but natural, for in the boundless
+misery that prevails in Naples, where can the bases of a theatre be
+found, which of course requires considerable capital? The days when
+every Italian was a born musician, if indeed they ever existed, are
+long gone by. They treat music like any other fashionable article,
+with total indifference; in fact, they scarcely pay it the homage
+of outward respect, so it is not to be wondered at that every
+single person of talent should, as regularly as they appear,
+transfer themselves to foreign countries, where they are better
+appreciated, their position better defined, and where they find
+opportunities of hearing and learning something profitable and
+inspiriting.
+
+The only really good singer here is Tamburini; he has, however,
+long since been heard in Vienna and Paris, and I believe in London
+also; so now, when he begins to discover that his voice is on the
+decline, he comes back to Italy. I cannot admit either that the
+Italians alone understand the art of singing; for there is no
+music, however florid. I have ever heard executed by Italians, that
+Sonntag cannot accomplish, and in even greater perfection. She
+certainly, as she acknowledges, learned much from Fodor; but why
+should not another German in turn learn the same from Sonntag? and
+Malibran is a Spaniard. Italy can no longer claim the glorious
+appellation of "the land of music;" in truth, she has already lost
+it, and possibly she may yet do so even in the opinion of the
+world, though this is problematical. I was lately in company with
+some professional musicians, who were speaking of a new opera by a
+Neapolitan, Coccia; and one of them asked if it was clever.
+"Probably it is," said another, "for Coccia was long in England,
+where he studied, and some of his compositions are much liked
+there." This struck me as very remarkable, for in England they
+would have spoken exactly in the same way of Italy; but _quo me
+rapis_? I say nothing to you, dear sisters, in this letter, but in
+the course of a few days I mean to send you a little pamphlet
+dedicated to you. Do not be alarmed, it is not poetry; the thing is
+simply entitled "Journal of an Excursion to the Islands, in May."
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Naples, May 28th, 1831.
+
+     My dear Sisters,
+
+As my journal is become too stupid and uninteresting to send you, I
+must at least supply you with an _abrégé_ of my history. You must
+know, then, that on Friday, the 20th of May, we breakfasted _in
+corpore_ at Naples, on fruit, etc.; this _in corpore_ includes the
+travelling party to Ischia, consisting of Ed. Bendemann, T.
+Hildebrand, Carl Sohn, and Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy. My knapsack
+was not very heavy, for it contained scarcely anything but Goethe's
+poems, and three shirts; so we packed ourselves into a hired
+carriage, and drove through the grotto of Posilippo to Pozzuoli.
+The road runs along by the sea, and nothing can be more lovely; so
+it is all the more painful to witness the horrible collection of
+cripples, blind men, beggars, and galley slaves, in short, the poor
+wretches of every description who there await you, amid the holiday
+aspect of nature.
+
+I seated myself quietly on the mole and sketched, while the others
+plodded and toiled through the Temple of Serapis, the theatres, the
+hot springs, and extinct volcanoes, which I had already seen to
+satiety on three different occasions. Then, like youthful
+patriarchs or nomads, we collected all our goods and chattels,
+cloaks, knapsacks, books and portfolios on donkeys, and placing
+ourselves also on them, we made the tour of the Bay of Baiæ, as far
+as the Lake of Avernus, where you are obliged to buy fish for
+dinner; we crossed the hill to Cumæ (_vide_ Goethe's 'Wanderer')
+and descended on Baiæ, where we ate and rested. We then looked at
+more ruined temples, ancient baths, and other things of the kind,
+and thus evening had arrived before we crossed the bay.
+
+At half-past nine we arrived at the little town of Ischia, where we
+found every corner of the only inn fully occupied, so we resolved
+to go on to Don Tommaso's; a journey of two hours nominally, but
+which we performed in an hour and a quarter. The evening was
+deliciously cool, and innumerable glow-worms, who allowed us to
+catch them, were scattered on the vine-branches, and fig-trees, and
+shrubs. When we at last arrived, somewhat fatigued, at Don
+Tommaso's house, about eleven o'clock, we found all the people
+still up, clean rooms, fresh fruits, and a friendly deacon to wait
+on us, so we remained comfortably seated opposite a heap of
+cherries till midnight. The next morning the weather was bad, and
+the rain incessant, so we could not ascend the Epomeo, and as we
+seemed little disposed to converse (we did not get on in this
+respect, Heaven knows why!) the affair would have become rather a
+bore, if Don Tommaso had not possessed the prettiest poultry-yard
+and farm in Europe. Right in front of the door stands a large leafy
+orange-tree covered with ripe fruit, and from under its branches a
+stair leads to the dwelling. Each of the white stone steps is
+decorated with a large vase of flowers, these steps leading to a
+spacious open hall, whence through an archway you look down on the
+whole farm-yard, with its orange-trees, stairs, thatched roofs,
+wine casks and pitchers, donkeys and peacocks. That a foreground
+may not be wanting, an Indian fig-tree stands under the walled
+arch, so luxuriant that it is fastened to the wall with ropes. The
+background is formed by vineyards with summer-houses, and the
+adjacent heights of the Monte Epomeo. Being protected from the rain
+by the archway, the party seated themselves there under shelter,
+and sketched the various objects in the farm the best way they
+could, the whole livelong day. I was on no ceremony, and sketched
+along with them, and I think I in some degree profited by so doing.
+At night we had a terrific storm, and as I was lying in bed, I
+remarked that the thunder growled tremendously on Monte Epomeo, and
+the echoes continued to vibrate like those on the Lake of Lucerne,
+but even for a greater length of time.
+
+Next morning, Sunday, the weather was again fine. We went to Foria,
+and saw the people going to the cathedral in their holiday
+costumes. The women wore their well-known head-dress of folds of
+white muslin placed flat on the head; the men were standing in the
+square before the church, in their bright red caps, gossiping about
+politics, and we gradually wound our way through these festal
+villages up the hill. It is a huge rugged volcano, full of
+fissures, ravines, cavities, and steep precipices. The cavities
+being used for wine cellars, they are filled with large casks.
+Every declivity is clothed with vines and fig-trees, or
+mulberry-trees. Corn grows on the sides of the steep rocks, and
+yields more than one crop every year. The ravines are covered with
+ivy, and innumerable bright-coloured flowers and herbs, and
+wherever there is a vacant space, young chestnut-trees shoot up,
+furnishing the most delightful shade. The last village, Fontana,
+lies in the midst of verdure and vegetation. As we climbed higher,
+the sky became overcast and gloomy, and by the time we reached the
+most elevated peaks of the rocks, a thick fog had come on. The
+vapours flitted about, and although the rugged outlines of the
+rocks, and the telegraph, and the cross, stood forth strangely in
+the clouds, still we could not see even the smallest portion of the
+view. Soon afterwards rain commenced, and as it was impossible to
+remain, and wait as you do on the Righi, we were obliged to take
+leave of Epomeo without having made his acquaintance. We ran down
+in the rain, one rushing after the other, and I do believe that we
+were scarcely an hour in returning.
+
+Next day we went to Capri. This place has something Eastern in its
+aspect, with the glowing heat reflected from its rocky white walls,
+its palm-trees, and the rounded domes of the churches that look
+like mosques. The sirocco was burning, and rendered me quite unfit
+to enjoy anything; for really climbing up five hundred and
+thirty-seven steps to Anacapri in this frightful heat, and then
+coming down again, is toil only fit for a horse. True, the sea is
+wondrously lovely, looking down on it from the summit of the bleak
+rock, and through the singular fissures of the jagged peaks, so
+strangely formed.
+
+But above all, I must tell you of the blue grotto, for it is not
+known to every one, as you can only enter it either in very calm
+weather, or by swimming. The rocks there project precipitously into
+the sea, and are probably as steep under the water as above it. A
+huge cavity has been hollowed out by nature, but in such a manner,
+that round the whole circumference of the grotto, the rocks rest
+on the sea in all their breadth, or rather are sunk precipitously
+into it, and ascend thence to the vault of the cavern. The sea
+fills the whole space of the grotto, the entrance to which lies
+under the water, only a very small portion of the opening
+projecting above the water, and through this narrow space you can
+only pass in a small boat, in which you must lie flat. When you are
+once in, the whole extent of the huge cave and its vault is
+revealed, and you can row about in it with perfect ease, as if
+under a dome. The light of the sun also pierces through the opening
+into the grotto underneath the sea, but broken and dimmed by the
+green sea water, and thence it is that such magical visions arise.
+The whole of the rocks are sky-blue and green in the twilight,
+resembling the hue of moonshine, yet every nook, and every depth,
+is distinctly visible. The water is thoroughly lighted up and
+brilliantly illuminated by the light of the sun, so that the dark
+skiff glides over a bright shining surface. The colour is the most
+dazzling blue I ever saw, without shadow or cloud, like a pane of
+opal glass; and as the sun shines down, you can plainly discern all
+that is going on under the water, while the whole depths of the sea
+with its living creatures are disclosed. You can see the coral
+insects and polypuses clinging to the rocks, and far below, fishes
+of different species meeting and swimming past each other. The
+rocks become deeper in colour as they go lower into the water, and
+are quite black at the end of the grotto, where they are closely
+crowded together, and still further under them, you can see crabs,
+fishes, and reptiles in the clear waters. Every stroke too of the
+oars echoes strangely under the vault, and as you row round the
+wall, new objects come to light. I do wish you could see it, for
+the effect is singularly magical. On turning towards the opening by
+which you entered, the daylight seen through it seems bright
+orange, and by moving even a few paces you are entirely isolated
+under the rock in the sea, with its own peculiar sunlight: it is as
+if you were actually living under the water for a time.
+
+We then proceeded to Procida, where the women adopt the Greek
+dress, but do not look at all prettier from doing so. Curious faces
+were peeping from every window. A couple of Jesuits, in black gowns
+and with gloomy countenances, were seated in a gay arbour of vines,
+evidently enjoying themselves, and made a good picture. Then we
+crossed the sea to Pozzuoli, and through the grotto of Posilippo
+again home.
+
+I cannot write to Paul about his change of residence, and his
+entrance into the great, wide world of London, because he mentions
+casually, that he will probably leave for London in the course of
+three weeks, so my letter could not possibly reach him in Berlin; a
+week hence I shall take my chance, and address to my brother in
+London. That smoky place is fated to be now and ever my favourite
+residence; my heart glows when I even think of it, and I paint to
+myself my return there, passing through Paris, and finding Paul
+independent, alone, and another man, in the dear old haunts; when
+he will present me to his new friends, and I will present him to my
+old ones, and we shall live and dwell together: so even at this
+moment I am all impatience soon to go there. I see by some
+newspapers my friends have sent me, that my name is not forgotten,
+and so I hope when I return to London, to be able to work steadily,
+which I was previously unable to do, being forced to go to Italy.
+If they make any difficulty in Munich about my opera, or if I
+cannot get a _libretto_ that I like, I intend in that case to
+compose an opera for London. I know that I could receive a
+commission to do so, as soon as I chose. I am also bringing some
+new pieces with me for the Philharmonic, and so I shall have made
+good use of my time.
+
+As my evenings here are at my own disposal, I read a little French
+and English. The "Barricades" and "Les États de Blois" particularly
+interest me, as while I read them I realize with horror a period
+which we have often heard extolled as a vigorous epoch, too soon
+passed away. Though these books seem to me to have many faults, yet
+the delineation of the two opposite leaders is but too correct;
+both were weak, irresolute, miserable hypocrites, and I thank God
+that the so highly-prized middle ages are gone never to return. Say
+nothing of this to any disciple of Hegel's, but it is so
+nevertheless; and the more I read and think on the subject, the
+more I feel this to be true. Sterne has become a great favourite
+of mine. I remembered that Goethe once spoke to me of the
+'Sentimental Journey,' and said that it was impossible for any one
+better to paint what a froward and perverse thing is the human
+heart. I chanced to meet with the book, and thought I should like
+to read it. It pleases me very much. I think it very subtle, and
+beautifully conceived and expressed.
+
+There are very few German books to be had here. I am therefore
+restricted to Goethe's Poems, and assuredly these are suggestive
+enough, and always new. I feel especial interest in those poems
+which he evidently composed in or near Naples, such as Alexis and
+Dora; for I daily see from my window how this wonderful work was
+created. Indeed, which is often the case with master-pieces, I
+often suddenly and involuntarily think, that the very same ideas
+might have occurred to myself on a similar occasion, and as if
+Goethe had only by some chance been the first to express them.
+
+With regard to the poem, "Gott segne dich, junge Frau," I maintain
+that I have discovered its locality and dined with the woman
+herself; but of course she is now grown old, and the boy she was
+then nursing is become a stalwart vine-dresser. Her house lies
+between Pozzuoli and Baiæ, "eines Tempels Trümmern," and is fully
+three miles from Cumæ. You may imagine therefore with what new
+light and truth these poems dawn on me, and the different feeling
+with which I now regard and study them. I say nothing of Mignon's
+song at present, but it is singular that Goethe and Thorwaldsen
+are still living, that Beethoven only died a few years ago, and yet
+H---- declares that German art is as dead as a rat. _Quod non._ So
+much the worse for him if he really feels thus; but when I reflect
+for a time on his conclusions, they appear to me very shallow.
+_Apropos_, Schadow, who returns to Düsseldorf in the course of a
+few days, has promised to extract, if possible, some new songs for
+me from Immermann, which rejoices me much. That man is a true poet,
+which is proved by his letters, and everything that he has written.
+Count Platen is a little, shrivelled, wheezing old man, with gold
+spectacles, yet not more than five-and-thirty! He quite startled
+me. The Greeks look very different! He abuses the Germans terribly,
+forgetting however that he does so in German. But farewell for
+to-day.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, June 6th, 1831.
+
+     My dear Parents,
+
+It is indeed high time that I should write to you a rational,
+methodical letter, for I fear that none of those from Naples were
+worth much. It really seemed as if the atmosphere there deterred
+every one from serious reflection, at least I very seldom succeeded
+in collecting my thoughts or ideas; and now I have been scarcely
+more than a few hours here, when I once more resume that Roman
+tranquillity, and grave serenity, which I alluded to in my former
+letters from this place. I cannot express how infinitely better I
+love Rome than Naples. People allege that Rome is monotonous, of
+one uniform hue, melancholy, and solitary. It is certainly true
+that Naples is more like a great European city, more lively and
+varied, and more cosmopolitan; but I may say to you confidentially,
+that I begin gradually to feel the most decided hatred of all that
+is cosmopolitan;--I dislike it, just as I dislike _many-sidedness_,
+which, moreover, I rather think I do not much believe in. Anything
+that aspires to be distinguished, or beautiful, or really great,
+must be _one-sided_; but then this _one side_ must be brought to a
+state of the most consummate perfection, and no man can deny that
+such is the case at Rome.
+
+Naples seems to me too small to be called properly a great
+city; all the life and bustle are confined to two large
+thoroughfares--the Toledo, and the coast from the harbour to the
+Chiaja. Naples does not realize to my mind the idea of a centre for
+a great nation, which London offers in such perfection; chiefly
+indeed because it is deficient in a people: for the fishermen and
+lazzaroni I cannot designate as a people, they are more like
+savages, and their centre is not Naples, but the sea. The middle
+classes, by which I mean those who pursue various trades, and the
+working citizens who form the basis of other great towns, are quite
+subordinate; indeed, I may almost say that such a class is not to
+be found there. It was this that often made me feel out of humour
+during my stay in Naples, much as I loved and enjoyed the scenery;
+but as a dissatisfied feeling constantly recurred, I think I at
+last discovered the cause to lie within myself. I cannot say that I
+was precisely unwell during the incessant sirocco, but it was more
+disagreeable than an indisposition which passes away in a few days.
+I felt languid, disinclined for all that was serious,--in fact,
+lazy. I lounged about the streets all day with a morose face, and
+would have preferred lying on the ground, without the trouble of
+thinking, or wishing, or doing anything; then it suddenly occurred
+to me, that the principal classes in Naples live in reality
+precisely in the same manner; that consequently the source of my
+depression did not spring from myself, as I had feared, but from
+the whole combination of air, climate, etc. The atmosphere is
+suitable for grandees who rise late, never require to go out on
+foot, never think (for this is heating), sleep away a couple of
+hours on a sofa in the afternoon, then eat ice, and drive to the
+theatre at night, where again they do not find anything to think
+about, but simply make and receive visits. On the other hand, the
+climate is equally suitable for a fellow in a shirt, with naked
+legs and arms, who also has no occasion to move about--begging for
+a few _grani_ when he has literally nothing left to live on--taking
+his afternoon's siesta stretched on the ground, or on the quay, or
+on the stone pavement (the pedestrians step over him, or shove him
+aside if he lies right in the middle). He fetches his _frutti di
+mare_ himself out of the sea, sleeps wherever he may chance to
+find himself at night; in short, he employs every moment in doing
+exactly what he likes best, just as an animal does.
+
+These are the two principal classes of Naples. By far the largest
+portion of the population of the Toledo there, consists of gaily
+dressed ladies and gentlemen, or husbands and wives driving
+together in handsome equipages, or of those olive _sans-culottes_
+who sometimes carry about fish for sale, brawling in the most
+stentorian way, or bearing burdens when they have no longer any
+money left. I believe there are few indeed who have any settled
+occupation, or follow up any pursuit with zeal and perseverance, or
+who like work for the sake of working. Goethe says that the
+misfortune of the North is, that people there always wish to be
+doing something, and striving after some end; and he goes on to
+say, that an Italian was right, who advised him not to think so
+much, for it would only give him a headache. I suspect however that
+he was merely jesting; at all events, he did not act in this manner
+himself, but, on the contrary, like a genuine Northman. If however
+he means that the difference of character is produced by nature,
+and subservient to her influence, then there is no doubt that he is
+quite in the right. I can perfectly conceive that it must be so,
+and why wolves howl; still it is not necessary to howl along with
+them. The proverb should be exactly reversed. Those who, owing to
+their position, are obliged to work, and must consequently both
+think and bestir themselves, treat the matter as a necessary evil,
+which brings them in money, and when they actually have it, they
+too live like the great, or the naked, gentlemen. Thus there is no
+shop where you are not cheated. Natives of Naples, who have been
+customers for many years, are obliged to bargain, and to be as much
+on their guard as foreigners; and one of my acquaintances, who had
+dealt at the same shop for fifteen years, told me that during the
+whole of that period there had been invariably the same battle
+about a few scudi, and that nothing could prevent it.
+
+Thence it is that there is so little industry or competition, and
+that Donizetti finishes an opera in ten days; to be sure, it is
+sometimes hissed, but that does not matter, for it is paid for all
+the same, and he can then go about amusing himself. If at last
+however his reputation becomes endangered, he will in that case be
+forced really to work, which he would find by no means agreeable.
+This is why he sometimes writes an opera in three weeks, bestowing
+considerable pains on a couple of airs in it, so that they may
+please the public, and then he can afford once more to divert
+himself, and once more to write trash. Their painters, in the same
+way, paint the most incredibly bad pictures, far inferior even to
+their music. Their architects also erect buildings in the worst
+taste; among others, an imitation, on a small scale, of St.
+Peter's, in the Chinese style. But what does it matter? the
+pictures are bright in colour, the music makes plenty of noise, the
+buildings give plenty of shade, and the Neapolitan grandees ask no
+more.
+
+My physical mood was similar to theirs, everything inspiring me
+with a wish to be idle, and to lounge about, and sleep; yet I was
+constantly saying to myself that this was wrong; and striving to
+occupy myself, and to work, which I could not accomplish. Hence
+arose the querulous tone of some of the letters I wrote to you, and
+I could only escape from such a mood by rambling over the hills,
+where nature is so divine, making every man feel grateful and
+cheerful. I did not neglect the musicians, and we had a great deal
+of music, but I cared little in reality for their flattering
+encomiums. Fodor is hitherto the only genuine artist, male or
+female, that I have seen in Italy; elsewhere I should probably have
+found a great many faults with her singing, but I overlooked them
+all, because when she sings it is real music, and after such a long
+privation, that was most acceptable.
+
+Now however I am once more in old Rome, where life is very
+different. There are processions daily, for last week was the
+Corpus Domini; and just as I left the city during the celebration
+of the week following the Holy Week, I now return after the Corpus
+Christi to find them engaged in the same way. It made a singular
+impression on me to see that the streets had in the interim assumed
+such an aspect of summer: on all sides booths with lemons and iced
+water, the people in light dresses, the windows open, and the
+_jalousies_ closed. You sit at the doors of coffee-houses, and eat
+_gelato_ in quantities; the Corso swarms with equipages, for people
+no longer walk much, and though in reality I miss no dear friends
+or relatives, yet I felt quite moved when I once more saw the
+Piazza di Spagna, and the familiar names written up on the corners
+of the streets. I shall stay here for about a week, and then
+proceed northwards.
+
+The Infiorata is on Thursday, but it is not yet quite certain that
+it will take place, because they have some apprehensions of a
+revolution; but I hope I shall witness this ceremony. I mean to
+take advantage of this opportunity to see the hills once more, and
+then to set off for the north. Wish me a good journey, for I am on
+the eve of departure. It is a year this very day since I arrived in
+Munich, heard 'Fidelio,' and wrote to you. We have not met since
+then; but, please God, we shall see each other again before another
+year.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, June 16, 1831.
+
+     Dear Professor,
+
+It was my intention some time ago to have written you a description
+of the music during the Holy Week, but my journey to Naples
+intervened, and during my stay there, I was so constantly occupied
+in wandering among the mountains, and in gazing at the sea, that I
+had not a moment's leisure to write; hence arose the delay for
+which I now beg to apologize. Since then I have not heard a single
+note worth remembering; in Naples the music is most inferior.
+During the last two months, therefore, I have no musical
+reminiscences to send you, save those of the Holy Week, which
+however made so indelible an impression on my mind, that they will
+be always fresh in my memory. I already described to my parents the
+effect of the whole ceremonies, and they probably sent you the
+letter.
+
+It was fortunate that I resolved to listen to the various Offices
+with earnest and close attention, and still more so, that from the
+very first moment I felt sensations of reverence and piety. I
+consider such a mood indispensable for the reception of new ideas,
+and no portion of the general effect escaped me, although I took
+care to watch each separate detail.
+
+The ceremonies commenced on Wednesday, at half past four o'clock,
+with the antiphon "Zelus domus tuæ." A little book containing the
+Offices for the Holy Week explains the sense of the various
+solemnities. "Each Nocturn contains three Psalms, signifying that
+Christ died for all, and also symbolical of the three laws, the
+natural, the written, and the evangelical. The 'Domine labia mea'
+and the 'Deus in adjutorium' were not sung on this occasion, when
+the death of our Saviour and Master is deplored, as slain by the
+hands of wicked godless men. The fifteen lights represent the
+twelve apostles and the three Marys." (In this manner the book
+contains much curious information on this subject, so I mean to
+bring it with me for you.) The Psalms are chanted _fortissimo_ by
+all the male voices of two choirs. Each verse is divided into two
+parts, like a question and answer, or rather, classified into A and
+B; the first chorus sings A, and the second replies with B. All the
+words, with the exception of the last, are sung with extreme
+rapidity on one note, but on the last they make a short "melisma,"
+which is different in the first and second verse. The whole Psalm,
+with all its verses, is sung on this melody, or _tono_ as they call
+it, and I wrote down seven of these _toni_, which were employed
+during the three days. You cannot conceive how tiresome and
+monotonous the effect is, and how harshly and mechanically they
+chant through the Psalms. The first _tonus_ which they sang was--
+
+  [Music: In-fi-xus sum in li-mo pro-fun-di,
+  et non est sub-stan-tia]
+
+Thus the whole forty-two verses of the Psalm are sung in precisely
+the same manner; one half of the verse ending in G, A, G, the other
+in G, E, G. They sing with the accent of a number of men
+quarrelling violently, and it sounds as if they were shouting out
+furiously one against another. The closing words of each Psalm are
+chanted more slowly and impressively, a long "triad" being
+substituted for the "melisma," sung _piano_. For instance, this is
+the first:--
+
+  [Music: Qui di-li-gunt no-men e-jus
+  ha-bi-ta-bunt in e-a.]
+
+An antiphon, and sometimes more than one, serves as an introduction
+to each Psalm. These are generally sung by two counter-tenor
+voices, in _canto fermo_, in harsh, hard tones; the first half of
+each verse in the same style, and the second responded to by the
+chorus of male voices that I already described. I have kept the
+several antiphons that I wrote down, that you may compare them with
+the book. On the afternoon of Wednesday, the 68th, 69th, and 70th
+Psalms were sung. (By the bye, this division of the verses of the
+Psalms sung in turns by each chorus, is one of the innovations that
+Bunsen has introduced into the Evangelical Church here; he also
+ushers in each choral by an antiphon, composed by Georg, a musician
+who resides here, in the style of _canti fermi_, first sung by a
+few voices, succeeded by a choral, such as "Ein' feste Burg ist
+unser Gott.") After the 70th Psalm comes a paternoster _sub
+silentio_--that is, all present stand up, and a short silent
+inward prayer ensues, and a pause.
+
+Then commences the first Lamentation of Jeremiah, sung in a low
+subdued tone, in the key of G major, a solemn and fine composition
+of Palestrina's. The solos are chanted entirely by high tenor
+voices, swelling and subsiding alternately, in the most delicate
+gradations, sometimes floating almost inaudibly, and gently
+blending the various harmonies; being sung without any bass voices,
+and immediately succeeding the previous harsh intonation of the
+Psalms, the effect is truly heavenly. It is rather unfortunate
+however that those very parts which ought to be sung with the
+deepest emotion and reverence, being evidently those composed with
+peculiar fervour, should chance to be merely the titles of the
+chapter or verse, _aleph_, _beth_, _gimel_, etc., and that the
+beautiful commencement, which sounds as if it came direct from
+Heaven, should be precisely on these words, "Incipit Lamentatio
+Jeremiæ Prophetæ Lectio I." This must be not a little repulsive to
+every Protestant heart, and if there be any design to introduce a
+similar mode of chanting into our churches, it appears to me that
+this will always be a stumbling-block; for any one who sings
+"chapter first" cannot possibly feel any pious emotions, however
+beautiful the music may be, let him strive as he will.
+
+My little book indeed says, "Vedendo profetizzato il
+crocifiggimento con gran pietà, si cantano eziandio molto
+lamentevolmente _aleph_, e le altre simili parole, che sono le
+lettere dell' alfabeto Ebreo, perchè erano in costume di porsi in
+ogni canzone in luogo di lamento, come è questa. Ciascuna lettera
+ha in se, tutto it sentimento di quel versetto che la segue, ed è
+come un argomento di esso;" but this explanation is not worth much.
+After this the 71st, 72nd, and 73rd Psalms are sung in the same
+manner, with their antiphons. These are apportioned to the various
+voices. The soprano begins, "In monte Oliveti," on which the bass
+voices chime in _forte_, "Oravit ad Patrem: Pater," etc. Then
+follow the lessons, from the treatise of Saint Augustine on the
+Psalms. The strange mode in which these are chanted appeared to me
+very extraordinary when I heard them for the first time on Palm
+Sunday, without knowing what it meant. A solitary voice is heard
+reciting on one note, not as in the Psalms, but very slowly and
+impressively, making the tone ring out clearly.
+
+There are different cadences employed for the different punctuation
+of the words, to represent a comma, interrogation, and full stop.
+Perhaps you are already acquainted with these: to me they were a
+novelty, and appeared very singular. The first, for example, was
+chanted by a powerful bass voice in G. If a comma occurs, he sings
+so, on the last word:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+an interrogation thus:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+a full stop:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+For example:--
+
+  [Music: con-jun-ga-mus o-ra-ti-o-nem.]
+
+I cannot describe to you how strange the falling cadence from A to
+C sounds; especially when the bass is followed by a soprano, who
+begins on D, and makes the same falling cadence from E to G; then
+an alto does the same in his key; for they sang three different
+lessons alternately with the _canto fermo_. I send you a specimen
+of the mode in which they render the _canto fermo_, regardless both
+of the words and the sense. The phrase "better he had never been
+born" was thus sung:--
+
+  [Music: Me-li-us il-li e-rat si
+  na-tus non fu-is-set]
+
+quite _fortissimo_ and monotonously. Then came the Psalms 74, 75,
+and 76, followed by three lessons, succeeded by the Miserere, sung
+in the same style as the preceding Psalms, in the following
+_tonus_:--
+
+  [Music: Et se-cun-dum mul-ti-tu-di-nem
+  mi-se-ra-tio-rum tua--rum
+  de-le i-ni-qui-ta-tem me-am.]
+
+It will be long before you can improve on this. Then followed
+Psalms 8, 62, and 66; "Canticum Moysi" in its own tone. Psalms 148,
+149, and 150 came next, and then antiphons. During this time the
+lights on the altar are all extinguished, save one which is placed
+behind the altar. Six wax candles still continue to burn high above
+the entrance, the rest of the space is already dim, and now the
+whole chorus _unisono_ intone with the full strength of their
+voices the "Canticum Zachariæ," during which the last remaining
+lights are extinguished. The mighty swelling chorus in the gloom,
+and the solemn vibration of so many voices, have a wonderfully fine
+effect.
+
+The melody (in D minor) is also very beautiful. At the close all is
+profound darkness. An antiphon begins on the sentence, "Now he that
+betrayed him gave them a sign," and continues to the words "that
+same is he, hold him fast." Then all present fall on their knees,
+and one solitary voice softly sings, "Christus factus est pro nobis
+obediens usque ad mortem;" on the second day is added, "mortem
+autem crucis;" and on Good Friday, "propter quod et Deus exaltavit
+illum, et dedit illi Nomen, quod est super omne nomen." A pause
+ensues, during which each person repeats the Paternoster to
+himself. During this silent prayer, a death-like silence prevails
+in the whole church; presently the Miserere commences, with a chord
+softly breathed by the voices, and gradually branching off into two
+choirs. This beginning, and its first harmonious vibration,
+certainly made the deepest impression on me. For an hour and a half
+previously, one voice alone had been heard chanting almost without
+any variety; after the pause came an admirably constructed chord,
+which has the finest possible effect, causing every one to feel in
+their hearts the power of music; it is this indeed that is so
+striking. The best voices are reserved for the Miserere, which is
+sung with the greatest variety of effect, the voices swelling and
+dying away, from the softest _piano_ to the full strength of the
+choir. No wonder that it should excite deep emotion in every heart.
+Moreover they do not neglect the power of contrast; verse after
+verse being chanted by all the male voices in unison, _forte_, and
+harshly. At the beginning of the subsequent verses, the lovely,
+rich, soft sounds of voices steal on the ear, lasting only for a
+short space, and succeeded by a chorus of male voices. During the
+verses sung in monotone, every one knows how beautifully the softer
+choir are about to uplift their voices; soon they are again heard,
+again to die away too quickly, and before the thoughts can be
+collected, the service is over.
+
+On the first day, when the Miserere of Baini was given in the key
+of B minor, they sang thus:--"Miserere mei Deus" to "misericordiam
+tuam" from the music, with solo voices, two choirs using the whole
+strength of voices at their command; then all the bass singers
+commenced _tutti forte_ by F sharp, chanting on that note "et
+secundum multitudinem" to "iniquitatem meam," which is immediately
+succeeded by a soft chord in B minor, and so on, to the last verse
+of all, which they sing with their entire strength; a second short
+silent prayer ensues, when all the Cardinals scrape their feet
+noisily on the pavement, which betokens the close of the ceremony.
+My little book says, "This noise is symbolical of the tumult made
+by the Hebrews in seizing Christ." It may be so, but it sounded
+exactly like the commotion in the pit of a theatre, when the
+beginning of a play is delayed, or when it is finally condemned.
+The single taper still burning, is then brought from behind the
+altar, and all silently disperse by its solitary light.
+
+On leaving the chapel, I must not omit to mention the striking
+effect of the blazing chandelier lighting up the great vestibule,
+when the Cardinals and their attendant priests traverse the
+illuminated Quirinal through ranks of Swiss Guards. The Miserere
+sung on the first day was Baini's, a composition entirely devoid of
+life or power, like all his works; still it had chords and music,
+and so it made a certain impression.
+
+On the second day they gave some pieces by Allegri and Bai. On Good
+Friday all the music was Bai's. As Allegri composed only one verse,
+on which the rest are chanted, I heard the three compositions which
+they gave on that day. It is however quite immaterial which they
+sing, for the _embellimenti_ are pretty much the same in all three.
+Each chord has its _embellimento_, thus very little of the original
+composition is to be discovered. How these _embellimenti_ have
+crept in they will not say. It is maintained that they are
+traditional; but this I entirely disbelieve. In the first place no
+musical tradition is to be relied on; besides, how is it possible
+to carry down a five-part movement to the present time, from mere
+hearsay? It does not sound like it. It is evident that they have
+been more recently added; and it appears to me that the director,
+having had good high voices at his command, and wishing to employ
+them during the Holy Week, wrote down for their use ornamental
+phrases, founded on the simple unadorned chords, to enable them to
+give full scope and effect to their voices. They certainly are not
+of ancient date, but are composed with infinite talent and taste,
+and their effect is admirable; one in particular is often
+repeated, and makes so deep an impression, that when it begins, an
+evident excitement pervades all present; indeed, in any discussion
+as to the mode of executing this music, and when people say that
+the voices do not seem like the voices of men, but those of angels
+from on high, and that these sounds can never he heard elsewhere,
+it is this particular _embellimento_ to which they invariably
+allude. For example, in the Miserere, whether that of Bai or
+Allegri (for they have recourse to the same _embellimenti_ in both)
+these are the consecutive chords:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+Instead of this, they sing it so:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+  [Music]
+
+The soprano intones the high C in a pure soft voice, allowing it to
+vibrate for a time, and slowly gliding down, while the alto holds
+the C steadily, so that at first I was under the delusion that the
+high C was still held by the soprano; the skill, too, with which
+the harmony is gradually developed is truly admirable. The other
+_embellimenti_ are adapted in the same way to the consecutive
+chords: but the first one is by far the most beautiful. I can give
+no opinion as to the particular mode of executing the music; but
+what I once read, that some particular acoustic contrivance caused
+the continued vibration of the sounds, is an entire fable, quite as
+much so as the assertion that they sing from tradition, and without
+any fixed time, one voice simply following the other; for I saw
+plainly enough the shadow of Baini's long arm moving up and down;
+indeed, he sometimes struck his music-desk quite audibly. There is
+no lack of mystery too, on the part of the singers and others: for
+example, they never say beforehand what particular Miserere they
+intend to sing, but that it will be decided at the moment, etc.,
+etc. The key in which they sing, depends on the purity of the
+voices. The first day it was in B minor, the second and third in E
+minor, but each time they finished almost in B flat minor.
+
+The chief soprano, Mariano, came from the mountains to Rome
+expressly to sing on this occasion, and it is to him I owe hearing
+the _embellimenti_ with their highest notes. However careful and
+attentive the singers may be, still the negligence and bad habits
+of the whole previous year have their revenge, consequently the
+most fearful dissonance sometimes occurs.
+
+I must not forget to tell you that on the Thursday, when the
+Miserere was about to begin, I clambered up a ladder leaning
+against the wall, and was thus placed close to the roof of the
+chapel, so that I had the music, the priests, and the people far
+beneath me in gloom and shadow. Seated thus alone without the
+vicinity of any obtrusive stranger, the impression made on me was
+very profound. But to proceed: you must have had more than enough
+of Misereres in these pages, and I intend to bring you more
+particular details, both verbal and written.
+
+On Thursday, at half-past ten o'clock, high Mass was celebrated.
+They sang an eight-part composition of Fazzini's, in no way
+remarkable. I reserve for you some _canti fermi_ and antiphons,
+which I wrote down at the time, and my little book describes the
+order of the various services and the meaning of the different
+ceremonies. At the "Gloria in Excelsis" all the bells in Rome peal
+forth, and are not rung again till after Good Friday. The hours are
+marked in the churches by wooden clappers. The words of the
+"Gloria," the signal for all the strange tumult of bells, were
+chanted from the altar by old Cardinal Pacca, in a feeble trembling
+voice; this being succeeded by the choirs and all the bells, had a
+striking effect. After the "Credo" they sang the "Fratres ego enim"
+of Palestrina, but in the most unfinished and careless manner. The
+washing of the pilgrims' feet followed, and a procession in which
+all the singers join; Baini beating time from a large book carried
+before him, making signs first to one, and then to another, while
+the singers pressed forward to look at the music, counting the time
+as they walked, and then chiming in,--the Pope being borne aloft in
+his state chair. All this I have already described to my parents.
+
+In the evening there were Psalms, Lamentations, Lessons, and the
+Miserere again, scarcely differing from those of the previous day.
+One lesson was chanted by a soprano solo on a peculiar melody, that
+I mean to bring home with me. It is an adagio, in long-drawn notes,
+and lasts a quarter of an hour at least. There is no pause in the
+music, and the melody lies very high, and yet it was executed with
+the most pure, clear, and even intonation. The singer did not drop
+his tone so much as a single comma, the very last notes swelling
+and dying away as even and full as at the beginning; it was,
+indeed, a masterly performance. I was struck with the meaning they
+attach to the word _appoggiatura_. If the melody goes from C to D,
+or from C to E, they sing thus:--
+
+  [Music] or [Music] or [Music]
+
+and this they call an _appoggiatura_. Whatever they may choose to
+designate it, the effect is most disagreeable, and it must require
+long habit not to be discomposed by this strange practice, which
+reminds me very much of our old women at home in church; moreover
+the effect is the same. I saw in my book that the "Tenebræ" was to
+be sung, and thinking that it would interest you to know how it is
+given in the Papal chapel, I was on the watch with a sharp-pointed
+pencil when it commenced, and send you herewith the principal
+parts. It was sung very quick, and _forte_ throughout, without
+exception. The beginning was:--
+
+  [Music: Te-ne-bræ fac----tæ sunt
+  dum cru-ci-fi-xis--sent
+  Je--sum Ju-dæ-i.
+  etc.]
+
+Then
+
+  [Music: De-us me--us, ut quid me
+  de-re-li--qui-sti?
+  ex-cla--mans Je-sus vo--ce
+  mag-na a-it: Pa-ter, in ma-
+  nus tu-as com-men-do spi-ri-tum
+  me----um.
+  etc.]
+
+I cannot help it, but I own it does irritate me to hear such holy
+and touching words sung to such dull, drawling music. They say it
+is _canto fermo_, Gregorian, etc.; no matter. If at that period
+there was neither the feeling nor the capability to write in a
+different style, at all events we have now the power to do so, and
+certainly this mechanical monotony is not to be found in the
+scriptural words; they are all truth and freshness, and moreover
+expressed in the most simple and natural manner. Why then make them
+sound like a mere formula? and, in truth, such singing as this is
+nothing more! The word "Pater" with a little flourish, the "meum"
+with a little shake, the "ut quid me"--can this be called sacred
+music? There is certainly no false expression in it, because there
+is _none_ of any kind; but does not this very fact prove the
+desecration of the words? A hundred times during the ceremony I was
+driven wild by such things as these; and then came people in a
+state of ecstasy, saying how splendid it had all been. This sounded
+to me like a bad joke, and yet they were quite in earnest!
+
+At Mass early on Friday morning, the chapel is stripped of all its
+decorations, the altar uncovered, and the Pope and Cardinals in
+mourning. The "Passion," from St. John, was sung, composed by
+Vittoria, but the words of the people in the chorus alone are his,
+the rest are chanted according to an established formula: but more
+of this hereafter. The whole appeared to me too trivial and
+monotonous, I was quite out of humour, and, in fact, dissatisfied
+with the affair altogether. One of the two following modes ought to
+be adopted. The "Passion" ought either to be recited quietly by the
+priest, as St. John relates it, in which case there is no occasion
+for the chorus to sing "Crucifige eum," nor for the alto to
+represent Pilate--or else the scene should be so thoroughly
+realized, that it ought to make me feel as if I were actually
+present, and saw it all myself. In that event, Pilate ought to sing
+just as he would have spoken, the chorus shout out "Crucifige" in a
+tone anything but sacred; and then, through the impress of entire
+truth, and the dignity of the object represented, the singing would
+become sacred church music.
+
+I require no under-current of thought when I hear music, which is
+not to me "a mere medium to elevate the mind to piety," as they say
+here, but a distinct language speaking plainly to me; for though
+the sense is _expressed_ by the words, it is equally contained in
+the music. This is the case with the "Passion" of Sebastian Bach;
+but as they sing it here, it is very imperfect, being neither a
+simple narrative, nor yet a grand solemn dramatic truth. The chorus
+sings "Barabbam" to the same sacred chords as "et in terra pax."
+Pilate speaks exactly in the same manner as the Evangelist. The
+voice that represents our blessed Saviour commences always _piano_,
+in order to have one definite distinction, but when the chorus
+breaks loose, shouting out their sacred chords, it seems entirely
+devoid of meaning. Pray forgive these strictures. I now proceed to
+simple narration again. The Evangelist is a tenor, and the mode of
+chanting, the same as that of the Lessons, with a peculiar falling
+cadence at the comma, interrogation, and full stop. The Evangelist
+intones on D, and sings thus at a full stop:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+at a comma:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+and at the conclusion, when another personage enters, so:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+Christ is represented by a bass, and commences always thus:--
+
+  [Music: E----go]
+
+I could not catch the formula, though I noted down several parts,
+which I can show you when I return: among others, the words spoken
+on the Cross. All the other personages,--Pilate, Peter, the Maid,
+and the High Priest,--are altos, and sing this melody only:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+The chorus sings the words of the people from their places above,
+while everything else is sung from the altar. I must really mark
+down here as a curiosity the "Crucifige," just as I noted it at the
+time:--
+
+  [Music: Tol-le! Tol-le! Cru-ci-fi-
+  ge e-um.]
+
+The "Barabbam" too is most singular;--very tame Jews indeed! But my
+letter is already too long, so I shall discuss the subject no
+further. Prayers are then offered up for all nations and
+institutions, each separately designated. When the prayer for the
+Jews is uttered, no one kneels, as they do at all the others, nor
+is Amen said. They pray _pro perfidis Judæis_, and the author of my
+book discovers an explanation of this also. Then follows the
+Adoration of the Cross; a small crucifix is placed in the centre
+of the chapel, and all approach barefooted (without shoes), fall
+down before it and kiss it; during this time the "Improperia" are
+sung. I have only once heard this composition, but it seems to me
+to be one of Palestrina's finest works, and they sing it with
+remarkable enthusiasm. There is surprising delicacy and harmony in
+its execution by the choir; they are careful to place every passage
+in its proper light, and to render it sufficiently prominent
+without making it too conspicuous--one chord blending softly with
+the other. Moreover, the ceremony is very solemn and dignified, and
+the most profound silence reigns in the chapel.
+
+They sing the oft-recurring Greek "Holy" in the most admirable
+manner, each time with the sane smoothness and expression. You will
+be not a little surprised, however, when you see it written down,
+for they sing as follows:--
+
+  [Music: A-gi-os O The---os]
+
+  [Music: Sanc-tus De-us.]
+
+Such passages as that at the commencement, where all the voices
+sing the very same embellishment, repeatedly occur, and the ear
+becomes accustomed to them. The effect of the whole is undoubtedly
+superb. I only wish you could hear the tenors in the first chorus,
+and the mode in which they take the high A on the word "Theos;" the
+note is so long-drawn and ringing, though softly breathed, that it
+sounds most touching. This is repeated again and again till all in
+the chapel have performed the Adoration of the Cross; but as on
+this occasion the crowd was not very great, I unluckily had not the
+opportunity of hearing it as often as I could have wished.
+
+I quite understand why the "Improperias" produced the strongest
+effect on Goethe, for they are nearly the most faultless of all, as
+both music and ceremonies, and everything connected with them, are
+in the most entire harmony. A procession follows to fetch the Host,
+which had been exposed and adored on the previous evening in
+another chapel of the Quirinal, lighted up by many hundred
+wax-lights. The morning service closed at half-past one with a hymn
+in _canto fermo_. At half-past three in the afternoon the first
+nocturn began, with the Psalms, Lessons, etc. I corrected what I
+had written down, heard the Miserere of Baini, and about seven
+o'clock followed the Cardinals home through the illuminated
+vestibule--so all was now seen, and all was now over.
+
+I was anxious, dear Professor, to describe the Holy Week to you
+minutely, as they were memorable days to me, every hour bringing
+with it something interesting and long anticipated. I also
+particularly rejoiced in feeling that, in spite of the excitement
+and the numerous discussions in praise or blame, the solemnities
+made as vivid an impression on me, as if I had been quite free from
+all previous prejudice or prepossession. I thus saw the truth
+confirmed, that perfection, even in a sphere the most foreign to
+us, leaves its own stamp on the mind. May you read this long letter
+with even half the pleasure I feel in recalling the period of the
+Holy Week at Rome.
+
+     Yours faithfully,
+        FELIX MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY.
+
+
+     Florence, June 25th, 1831.
+
+     Dear Sisters,
+
+On such a day as this my paternal home and those I love are much in
+my thoughts; my feelings on this point are rather singular. If I
+feel at any time unwell, or fatigued, or out of humour, I have no
+particular longing for my own home or for my family; but when
+brighter days ensue, when every hour makes an indelible impression,
+and every moment brings with it glad and pleasant sensations then I
+ardently wish that I were with you, or you with me; and no minute
+passes without my thinking of one or other of you, to whom I have
+something particular to say.
+
+I have to-day passed the whole forenoon, from ten till three, in
+the gallery; it was glorious! Besides all the beautiful work I saw,
+from which so much fresh benefit is always to be derived, I
+wandered about among the pictures, feeling so much sympathy, and
+such kindly emotions in gazing at them. I now first thoroughly
+realized the great charm of a large collection of the highest works
+of art. You pass from one to the other, sitting and dreaming for an
+hour before some picture, and then on to the next.
+
+Yesterday was a holiday here, so to-day the Palazzo degli Uffizi
+was crowded with people who had come into the city to see the
+races, and to visit the far-famed gallery; chiefly peasants, male
+and female, in their country costumes. All the apartments were
+thrown open, and as I was about to contemplate them for the last
+time. I contrived to slip quietly through the crowd, and to remain
+quite solitary, for I knew that I had not one acquaintance among
+them.
+
+The busts of the various princes who founded and enriched this
+collection, are placed near the entrance, at the top of the
+staircase. I suppose I must have been peculiarly susceptible
+to-day, for the faces of the Medici interested me exceedingly; they
+looked so noble and refined, so proud and so dignified. I stood
+looking at them for a long time, and imprinted on my memory those
+countenances of world-wide renown.
+
+I then went to the Tribune. This room is so delightfully small you
+can traverse it in fifteen paces, and yet it contains a world of
+art. I again sought out my favourite armchair, which stands under
+the statue of the "Slave Whetting his Knife" (_L'Arrotino_), and
+taking possession of it, I enjoyed myself for a couple of hours;
+for here, at one glance, I had the "Madonna del Cardellino," "Pope
+Julius II.," a female portrait by Raphael, and above it a lovely
+Holy Family, by Perugino; and so close to me that I could have
+touched the statue with my hand, the Venus de' Medici; beyond, that
+of Titian; on the other side, the "Apollino" and the "Wrestlers"
+(_Lottatori_); in front of the Raphael, the merry Greek Dancing
+Faun, who seems to feel an uncouth delight in discordant music, for
+the fellow has just struck two cymbals together, and is listening
+to the sound, while treading with his foot on a kind of Pan's
+pipes, as an accompaniment: what a clown he is! The space between
+is occupied by other pictures of Raphael's, a portrait by Titian, a
+Domenichino, etc., and all these within the circumference of a
+small semicircle, no larger than one of your own rooms. This is a
+spot where a man feels his own insignificance, and may well learn
+to be humble.
+
+I occasionally walked through the other rooms, where a large
+picture by Leonardo da Vinci, only commenced and sketched in, with
+all its wild dashes and strokes, is very suggestive. I was
+especially struck with the genius of the monk Fra Bartolommeo, who
+must have been a man of the most devout, tender, and earnest
+spirit. There is a small picture of his here, which I discovered
+for myself. It is about the size of this sheet of paper, in two
+divisions, and represents the "Adoration" and the "Presentation in
+the Temple." The figures are about two-thirds of a finger-length in
+size, but finished in the most exquisite and consummate manner,
+with the most brilliant colouring, the brightest decorations, and
+in the most genial sunshine. You can see in the picture itself,
+that the pious _maestro_ has taken delight in painting it, and in
+finishing the most minute details; probably with the view of giving
+it away, to gratify some friend. We feel as if the painter belonged
+to it, and still ought to be sitting before his work, or had only
+this moment left it. I felt the same with regard to many pictures
+to-day, especially that of the "Madonna del Cardellino," which
+Raphael painted as a wedding-gift, and a surprise for his friend.
+I could not help meditating on all these great men, so long passed
+away from earth, though their whole inner soul is still displayed
+in such lustre to us, and to all the world.
+
+While reflecting on these things, I came by chance into the room
+containing the portraits of great painters. I formerly merely
+regarded them in the light of valuable curiosities, for there are
+more than three hundred portraits, chiefly painted by the masters
+themselves, so that you see at the same moment the man and his
+work; but to-day a fresh idea dawned on me with regard to
+them,--that each painter resembles his own productions, and that
+each while painting his own likeness, has been careful to represent
+himself just as he really was. In this way you become personally
+acquainted with all these great men, and thus a new light is shed
+on many things. I will discuss this point more minutely with you
+when we meet; but I must not omit to say, that the portrait of
+Raphael is almost the most touching likeness I have yet seen of
+him. In the centre of a large rich screen, entirely covered with
+portraits, hangs a small solitary picture, without any particular
+designation, but the eye is instantly arrested by it; this is
+Raphael--youthful, very pale and delicate, and with such onward
+aspirations, such longing and wistfulness in the mouth and eyes,
+that it is as if you could see into his very soul. That he
+cannot succeed in expressing all that he sees and feels, and
+is thus impelled to go forward, and that he must die an early
+death,--all this is written on his mournful, suffering, yet fervid
+countenance, and when looking at his dark eyes, which glance at you
+out of the very depths of his soul, and at the pained and
+contracted mouth, you cannot resist a feeling of awe.
+
+How I wish you could see the portrait that hangs above it; that of
+Michael Angelo, an ugly, muscular, savage, rugged fellow, in all
+the vigour of life, looking gruff and morose; and on the other side
+a wise, grave man, with the aspect of a lion, Leonardo da Vinci;
+but you cannot see this portrait, and I will not describe it in
+writing, but tell you of it when we meet. Believe me, however, it
+is truly glorious. Then I passed on to the Niobe, which of all
+statues makes the greatest impression on me; and back again to my
+painters, and to the Tribune, and through the Corridors, where the
+Roman Emperors, with their dignified yet knavish physiognomies,
+stare you in the face; and last of all I took a final leave of the
+Medici family.
+
+It was indeed a morning never to be forgotten.
+
+
+     June 26th.
+
+Do not suppose however that I mean to assert that all days are
+spent thus. You must battle your way through the present living
+mob, before you can arrive at the nobility, long since dead, and
+those who have not a strong arm are sure to come badly off in the
+conflict. Such a journey as mine from Rome to Perugia, and on here,
+is no joke. Jean Paul says that the presence of a person who openly
+hates you is most painful and oppressive. Such a being is the
+Roman _vetturino_: he grants you no sleep; exposes you to hunger
+and thirst; at night, when he is bound to provide you with your
+_pranzo_, he contrives that you shall not arrive till midnight,
+when every one is of course asleep, and you are only too thankful
+to get a bed. In the morning he sets off before four o'clock, and
+rests his horses at noon for five hours, but invariably in some
+solitary little wayside inn, where nothing is to be had. Each day
+he makes out about six German miles, and drives _piano_, while the
+sun burns _fortissimo_.
+
+I was very badly off owing to all this, for my fellow-travellers
+were far from being congenial; three Jesuits inside, and in the
+cabriolet, where I particularly desired to sit, a most disagreeable
+Venetian lady. If I wished to escape from her, I was obliged to go
+inside, and listen to the praises of Charles X., and to hear that
+Ariosto ought to have been burnt as a corrupt writer, subversive of
+all morality. It was still worse outside, and we never seemed to
+get on. The first day, after a journey of four hours, the axletree
+broke, and we were obliged to remain for nine hours in the same
+house in the Campagna where we chanced to be, and at last to stay
+all night. If there was a church on the road that we had an
+opportunity of visiting, the most beautiful and devotional
+creations of Perugino, or Giotto, or Cimabue, enchanted our eyes;
+and so we passed from irritation to delight, and then to irritation
+again. This was a wretched state to be in. I was not in the least
+amused by it all; and if Nature had not bestowed on us bright
+moonshine at the Lake of Thrasymene, and if the scenery had not
+been so wonderfully fine, and if in every town we had not seen a
+superb church, and if we had not passed through a large city each
+day as we journeyed on, and if--but you see I am not easily
+satisfied.
+
+The route however was beautiful, and I must now describe my arrival
+in Florence, which also includes my whole Italian life of the
+previous days. At Incisa, half a day's journey from Florence, my
+_vetturino_ became so intolerable from his insolence and abuse,
+that I found it necessary to take out my luggage, and to tell him
+to drive to the devil,--which he accordingly did, rather against
+his will.
+
+It was Midsummer's day, and a celebrated fête was to take place in
+Florence the same evening, which I would on no account whatever
+have missed. This is just the kind of thing that the Italians take
+advantage of, so the landlady at Incisa offered me a carriage at
+four times the proper fare. When I refused to take it, she said I
+might try to procure another; and so I accordingly did, but found
+that no carriages for hire were to be had, only post-horses. I went
+to the Post, and was there told, to my disgust, that they were at
+my landlady's, and that she had wished to make me pay an exorbitant
+price for them. I went back and demanded horses. She said, if I did
+not choose to pay what she asked, I should have none. I desired to
+see the regulations, which they are all obliged to have. She said
+there was no occasion to show them, and turned her back on me. The
+use of physical strength, which plays a great part here, was
+resorted to by me on this occasion, for I seized her and pushed her
+back into a room (for we were standing in the passage) and then
+hurried down the street to the Podestà. It turned out however that
+there was no such person in the town, but that he lived four miles
+off. The affair became every instant more disagreeable, the crowd
+of boys at my heels increasing at every step. Fortunately a
+decent-looking man came up, to whom the mob seemed to show some
+respect; so I accosted him, and explained all that had occurred. He
+sympathized with me, and took me to a vine-dresser's who had a
+little carriage for hire.
+
+The whole crowd now congregated before his door, many pressing
+forward into the house after me, and shouting that I was mad; but
+the carriage drove up, and I threw a few scudi to an old beggar, on
+which they all called out that I was a _bravo Signore_, and wished
+me _buon viaggio_. The moderate price the man demanded more fully
+showed me the abominable overcharge of the landlady. The carriage
+was easy, and the horses went on at a good pace, and so we
+travelled across the hills to Florence. In the course of half an
+hour we overtook my lazy vetturino. I put up my umbrella to defend
+me from the sun, and I scarcely ever travelled so pleasantly and so
+comfortably as during those few hours, having left all annoyances
+behind me, and before me the prospect of the beautiful fête.
+
+Very soon the Duomo, and the hundreds of villas scattered through
+the valleys, were visible. Once more we passed by decorated
+terraces, and the tops of trees seen over them; the Arno valley
+looking lovelier than ever. And so I arrived here in good spirits
+and dined; and even while doing so I heard a tumult, and looking
+out of the window I saw crowds, both young and old, all hurrying in
+their holiday costumes across the bridges.
+
+I followed them to the Corso, and then to the races; afterwards to
+the illuminated Pergola, and last of all to a masked ball in the
+Goldoni Theatre. At one o'clock in the morning I went towards home,
+thinking that the whole affair was over; but the Arno was still
+covered with gondolas, illuminated by coloured lamps, and crossing
+each other in every direction. Under the bridge a large ship was
+passing, hung with green lanterns; the water shone brightly as it
+rippled along, while a still brighter moon looked down on the whole
+scene. I recalled to myself the various occurrences of the day, and
+the thoughts that had chased each other through my mind, and
+resolved to write them all to you. It is in fact a reminiscence for
+myself, for it may not be so suggestive to you, but it will one day
+be of service to me, enabling me to recall various scenes connected
+with fair Italy.
+
+
+EXTRACT FROM A LETTER TO FRAU VON PEREIRA, IN VIENNA.
+
+     Genoa, July, 1831.
+
+At first I resolved not to answer your letter until I had fulfilled
+your injunctions, and composed "Napoleon's Midnight Review;" and
+now I have to ask your forgiveness for not having done so, but
+there is a peculiarity in this matter. I take music in a very
+serious light, and I consider it quite inadmissible to compose
+anything that I do not thoroughly feel. It is just as if I were to
+utter a falsehood; for notes have as distinct a meaning as words,
+perhaps even a more definite sense. Now it appears to me almost
+impossible to compose for a descriptive poem. The mass of
+compositions of this nature do not militate against this opinion,
+but rather prove its truth; for I am not acquainted with one single
+work of the kind that has been successful. You are placed between a
+dramatic conception or a mere narrative; the one, in the "Erl
+König," causes the willows to rustle, the child to shriek, and the
+horse to gallop. The other imagines a ballad singer, calmly
+narrating the horrible tale, as you would a ghost story, and this
+is the most accurate view of the two; Reichardt almost invariably
+adopted this reading, but it does not suit me; the music stands in
+my way. I feel in a far more spectral spirit when I read such a
+poem quietly to myself, and imagine the rest, than when it is
+depicted, or related to me.
+
+It does not answer to look on "Napoleon's Midnight Review" as a
+narrative, inasmuch as no particular person speaks, and the poem is
+not written in the style of a ballad. It seems to me more like a
+clever conception than a poem; it strikes me that the poet himself
+placed no great faith in his misty forms.
+
+I could indeed have composed music for it in the same descriptive
+style, as Neukomm and Fischhof, in Vienna. I might have introduced
+a very novel rolling of drums in the bass, and blasts of trumpets
+in the treble, and have brought in all sorts of hobgoblins. But I
+love my serious elements of sound too well to do anything of the
+sort; for this kind of thing always appears to me a joke; somewhat
+like the painting's in juvenile spelling-books, where the roofs are
+coloured bright red, to make the children aware they are intended
+for roofs; and I should have been most reluctant to write out and
+send you anything incomplete, or that did not entirely please
+myself, because I always wish you to have the best I can
+accomplish.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Milan, July 14th, 1831.
+
+This letter will probably be the last (D.V.) that I shall write to
+you from an Italian city; I may possibly send you another from the
+Borromean Islands, which I intend to visit in a few days, but do
+not rely on this.
+
+My week here has been one of the most agreeable and amusing that I
+have passed in Italy; and how this could be the case in Milan,
+hitherto utterly unknown to me, I shall now proceed to relate. In
+the first place, I immediately secured a small piano, and attacked
+with _rabbia_ that endless "Walpurgis Night," to finish the thing
+at last; and to-morrow morning it will be completed, except the
+overture; for as yet I have not quite made up my mind whether it
+shall be a grand symphony, or a short introduction breathing of
+spring. I should like to take the opinion of some adept on this
+point. I must say the conclusion has turned out better than I
+myself expected. The hobgoblins and the bearded Druid, with the
+trombones sounding behind him, diverted me immensely, and so I
+passed two forenoons very happily.
+
+'Tasso' also contributed to my pleasure, which I have now for the
+first time been able to read with facility; it is a splendid poem.
+I was glad to be already well acquainted with Goethe's 'Tasso;'
+being constantly reminded of it by the principal passages of the
+Italian poet, whose verse, like that of Goethe, is so dreamy,
+harmonious, and tender, its sweet melody delighting the ear. Your
+favourite passage, dear father, "Era la notte allor," struck me as
+very beautiful, but the stanzas that I admire most, are those
+descriptive of Clorinda's death; they are so wonderfully
+imaginative, and fine. The close however does not quite please me.
+Tancred's 'Lamentations' are, I think, more charmingly composed
+than true to nature; they contain too many clever ideas and
+antitheses; and even the words of the hermit, which soothe him,
+sound more like a censure on the hermit himself. I should
+infallibly have killed him on the spot, if he had talked to me in
+such a strain.
+
+Recently I was reading the episode of 'Armida' in a carriage,
+surrounded by a company of Italian actors, who were incessantly
+singing Rossini's "Ma trema, trema," when suddenly there recurred
+to my thoughts Gluck's "Vous m'allez quitter," and Rinaldo's
+falling asleep, and the voyage in the air--and I felt in a most
+melting mood. This is genuine music; thus have men felt, and thus
+have men spoken, and such strains can never die. I do cordially
+hate the present licentious style. Do not take it amiss; your motto
+is, Without hatred, no love,--and I did feel so moved when I
+thought of Gluck, and his grand embodiments.
+
+Every evening I was in society, owing to a mad prank, which however
+proved very successful. I think I have invented this kind of
+eccentric proceeding, and may take out a patent for it, as I have
+already made my most agreeable acquaintances _ex abrupto_, without
+letters or introductions of any kind.
+
+I asked by chance on my arrival at Milan the name of the
+Commandant, and the _laquais de place_ named General Ertmann. I
+instantly thought of Beethoven's Sonata in A major, and its
+dedication; and as I had heard all that was good of Madame
+Ertmann, from those who knew her; that she was so kind, and had
+bestowed such loving care on Beethoven, and played herself so
+beautifully, I, next morning, at a suitable hour for a visit, put
+on a black coat, desired that the Government-house should be
+pointed out to me, and occupied myself on the way thither by
+composing some pretty speeches for the General's lady, and went on
+boldly.
+
+I cannot however deny that I felt rather dismayed when I was told
+that the General lived in the first story, facing the street; and
+when I was fairly in the splendid vaulted hall, I was seized with a
+sudden panic, and would fain have turned back: but I could not help
+thinking that it was vastly provincial on my part to take fright at
+a vaulted hall, so I went straight up to a group of soldiers
+standing near, and asked an old man in a short nankeen jacket, if
+General Ertmann lived there, intending then to send in my name to
+the lady. Unluckily the man replied, "I am General Ertmann: what is
+your pleasure?" This was unpleasant, as I was forced to have
+recourse to the speech I had prepared. The General, however, did
+not seem particularly edified by my statement, and wished to know
+whom he had the honour of addressing. This also was far from
+agreeable, but fortunately he was acquainted with my name, and
+became very polite: his wife, he said was not at home, but I should
+find her at two o'clock, or any hour after that which might suit
+me.
+
+I was glad that all had gone off so well, and in the meantime went
+to the Brera, where I passed the time in studying the 'Sposalizio'
+of Raphael, and at two o'clock I presented myself to Freifrau
+Dorothea von Ertmann. She received me with much courtesy, and was
+most obliging, playing me Beethoven's Sonata in C sharp minor, and
+the one in D minor. The old General, who now appeared in his
+handsome grey uniform, covered with orders, was quite enchanted,
+and had tears of delight in his eyes, because it was so long since
+he had heard his wife play; he said there was not a person in Milan
+who cared to hear what I had heard. She mentioned the trio in B
+major, but said she could not remember it. I played it, and sang
+the other parts: this enchanted the old couple, and so their
+acquaintance was soon made.
+
+Since then their kindness to me is so great that it quite
+overwhelms me. The old General shows me all the remarkable objects
+in Milan; in the afternoon his lady takes me in her carriage to
+drive on the Corso, and at night we have music till one o'clock in
+the morning. Yesterday at an early hour they drove with me in the
+environs; at noon I dined with them, and in the evening there was a
+party. They are the most agreeable and cultivated couple you can
+imagine, and both as much in love with each other as if they
+were a newly wedded pair,--and yet they have been married for
+four-and-thirty years. Yesterday he spoke of his profession, of
+military life, of personal courage, and similar subjects, with a
+degree of lucidity, and liberality of feeling, that I scarcely
+ever met with, except in my father. The General has been now an
+officer for six-and-forty years, and you should really see him
+galloping beside his wife's carriage in the park,--the old
+gentleman looking so dignified and animated!
+
+She plays Beethoven's works admirably, though it is so long since
+she studied them; she sometimes rather exaggerates the expression,
+dwelling too long on one passage, and then hurrying the next; but
+there are many parts that she plays splendidly, and I think I have
+learned something from her. When sometimes she can bring no more
+tone out of the instrument, and begins to sing in a voice that
+emanates from the very depths of her soul, she reminds me of you,
+dear Fanny, though you are infinitely her superior. When I was
+approaching the end of the adagio in the B major trio, she
+exclaimed, "The amount of expression here is beyond any one's
+playing;" and it is quite true of this passage.
+
+The following day, when I went there again to play her the symphony
+in C minor, she insisted on my taking off my coat, as the day was
+so hot. In the intervals of our music she related the most
+interesting anecdotes of Beethoven, and that when she was playing
+to him in the evening he not unfrequently used the snuffers as a
+tooth-pick! She told me that when she lost her last child,
+Beethoven at first shrank from coming to her house; but at length
+he invited her to visit him, and when she arrived, she found him
+seated at the piano, and simply saying, "Let us speak to each
+other by music," he played on for more than an hour, and, as
+she expressed it, "he said much to me, and at last gave me
+consolation." In short I am now in the most genial mood, and quite
+at my ease, having no occasion to resort to any disguise, or to be
+silent, for we understand each other admirably on all points. She
+played the Kreutzer Sonata yesterday with violin accompaniment, and
+when the violin-player (an Austrian cavalry officer) made a long
+flourish, _à la_ Paganini, at the beginning of the adagio, the old
+General made such a desperate grimace, that I nearly fell off my
+chair from laughing.
+
+I called on Teschner, as you, dear mother, desired me to do so;
+such a musician however is as depressing as a thick fog. Madame
+Ertmann has more soul in her little finger than that fellow has in
+his whole body, with his formidable moustaches, behind which he
+seems to lie in ambush. There is no public music in Milan; they
+still speak with enthusiasm of last winter, when Pasta and Rubini
+sang here, but say that they were miserably supported, and the
+orchestra and choruses bad. I however heard Pasta six years ago in
+Paris, and I can do the same every year, with the addition of a
+good orchestra and a good chorus, and many other advantages; so it
+is evident that if I wish to hear Italian music, I must go to Paris
+or to England. The Germans however take it amiss when you say this,
+and persist _par force_ in singing, playing, and acquiring new
+ideas here, declaring this is the land of inspiration; while I
+maintain that inspiration is peculiar to no country, but floats
+about in the air.
+
+Two days ago I was in the morning theatre here, and was amused.
+There you can see more of the life of the people than in any other
+part of Italy. It is a large theatre with boxes, the pit filled
+with wooden benches, on which you can find places if you come
+early; the stage is like every other stage, but there is no roof
+either over the pit or boxes, so that the bright sun shines into
+the theatre and into the eyes of the actors. Moreover, the piece
+they gave was in the Milanese dialect. You feel as if you were
+secretly watching all these complicated and diverting situations,
+and might take part in them if necessary, and thus the most
+familiar comic dilemmas become novel and interesting; and the
+public seem to feel the most lively interest in them. And now, good
+night. I wished to talk to you a little before going to bed, and so
+it has become a letter.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+EXTRACTS FROM TWO LETTERS TO EDWARD DEVRIENT.
+
+     Milan, July 15th, 1831.
+
+You reproach me with being two-and-twenty without having yet
+acquired fame. To this I can only reply, had it been the will of
+Providence that I should be renowned at the age of two-and-twenty,
+I no doubt should have been so. I cannot help it, for I no more
+write to gain a name, than to obtain a Kapellmeister's place. It
+would be a good thing if I could secure both. But so long as I do
+not actually starve, so long is it my duty to write only as I feel,
+and according to what is in my heart, and to leave the results to
+_Him_ who disposes of other and greater matters. Every day,
+however, I am more sincerely anxious to write exactly as I feel,
+and to have even less regard than ever to external views; and when
+I have composed a piece just as it sprang from my heart, then I
+have done my duty towards it; and whether it brings hereafter fame,
+honour, decorations, or snuff-boxes, etc., is a matter of
+indifference to me. If you mean, however, that I have neglected, or
+delayed perfecting myself, or my compositions, then I beg you will
+distinctly and clearly say in what respect and wherein I have done
+so. This would be indeed a serious reproach.
+
+You wish me to write operas, and think I am unwise not to have done
+so long ago. I answer, place a right libretto in my hand, and in
+two months the work shall be completed, for every day I feel more
+eager to write an opera. I think that it may become something fresh
+and spirited, if I begin it now; but I have got no words yet, and I
+assuredly never will write music for any poetry that does not
+inspire me with enthusiasm. If you know a man capable of writing
+the libretto of an opera, for Heaven's sake tell me his name, that
+is all I want. But till I have the words, you would not wish me to
+be idle--even if it were possible for me to be so?
+
+I have recently written a good deal of sacred music; that is quite
+as much a necessity to me, as the impulse that often induces people
+to study some particular book, the Bible, or others, as the only
+reading they care for at the time. If it bears any resemblance to
+Sebastian Bach, it is again no fault of mine, for I wrote it just
+according to the mood I was in; and if the words inspired me with a
+mood akin to that of old Bach, I shall value it all the more, for I
+am sure you do not think that I would merely copy his form, without
+the substance; if it were so, I should feel such disgust and such a
+void, that I could never again finish a composition. Since then I
+have written a grand piece of music which will probably impress the
+public at large--the first "Walpurgis Night" of Goethe. I began it
+simply because it pleased me, and inspired me with fervour, and
+never thought that it was to be performed; but now that it lies
+finished before me, I see that it is quite suitable for a great
+_Concertstück_, and you must sing the Bearded Pagan Priest at my
+first subscription concert in Berlin. I wrote it expressly to suit
+your voice; and as I have hitherto found that the pieces I have
+composed with least reference to the public are precisely those
+which gave them the greatest satisfaction, so no doubt it will be
+on this occasion also. I only mention this to prove to you that I
+do not neglect _the practical_. To be sure this is invariably an
+after-thought, for who the deuce could write music, the most
+unpractical thing in the world--the very reason why I love it so
+dearly--and yet think all the time of the practical! It is just as
+if a lover were to bring a declaration of love to his mistress in
+rhyme and verse, and recite it to her.
+
+I am now going to Munich, where they have offered me an opera, to
+see if I can find a man there who is a poet, for I will only have a
+man who has a certain portion of fire and genius. I do not expect a
+giant, and if I fail in meeting with a poet there, I shall probably
+make Immermann's acquaintance for this express purpose, and if he
+is not the man either, I shall try for him in London. I always
+fancy that the right man has not yet appeared; but what can I do to
+find him out? He certainly does not live in the Reichmann Hotel,
+nor next door; so where does he live? Pray write to me on this
+subject; although I firmly believe that a kind Providence, who
+sends us all things in due time when we stand in need of them, will
+supply this also if necessary; still we must do our duty, and look
+round us--and I do wish the libretto were found.
+
+In the meantime I write as good music as I can, and hope to make
+progress, and we already agreed, when discussing this affair in my
+room, that, as I said before, I am not responsible for the rest.
+But enough now of this dry tone. I really have become once more
+almost morose and impatient, and yet I had so firmly resolved never
+again to be so!
+
+
+     Lucerne, August 27th, 1831.
+
+I quite feel that any opera I were to write now, would not be
+nearly so good as any second one I might compose afterwards; and
+that I must first enter on the new path I propose to myself, and
+pursue it for some little time, in order to discover whither it
+will lead, and how far it will go, whereas in instrumental music I
+already begin to know exactly what I really intend. Having worked
+so much in this sphere, I feel much more clear and tranquil with
+regard to it--in short, it urges me onwards. Besides, I have been
+made very humble lately, by a chance occurrence that still dwells
+on my mind.
+
+In the valley of Engelberg I found Schiller's "Wilhelm Tell," and
+on reading it over again, I was anew enchanted and fascinated by
+such a glorious work of art, and by all the passion, fire, and
+fervour it displays. An expression of Goethe's suddenly recurred to
+my mind. In the course of a long conversation about Schiller, he
+said that Schiller had been able to _supply_ two great tragedies
+every year, besides other poems. This business-like term _supply_,
+struck me as the more remarkable on reading this fresh, vigorous
+work; and such energy seemed to me so wonderfully grand, that I
+felt as if in the course of my life I had never yet produced
+anything of importance; all my works seem so isolated. I feel as if
+I too must one day _supply_ something. Pray do not think this
+presumptuous; but rather believe that I only say so because I know
+what _ought_ to be, and what _is not_. Where I am to find the
+opportunity, or even a glimpse of one, is hitherto to me quite a
+mystery. If however it be my mission, I firmly believe that the
+opportunity will be granted, and if I do not profit by it another
+will; but in that case I cannot divine why I feel such an impulse
+to press onwards. If you could succeed in not thinking about
+singers, decorations, and situations, but feel solely absorbed in
+representing men, nature, and life, I am convinced that you would
+yourself write the best libretto of any one living; for a person
+who is so familiar with the stage as you are, could not possibly
+write anything undramatic, and I really do not know what you could
+wish to change in your poetry. If there be an innate feeling for
+nature and melody, the verses cannot fail to be musical, even
+though they sound rather lame in the libretto; but so far as I am
+concerned, you may write prose if you like, I will compose music
+for it. But when one form is to be moulded into another, when the
+verses are to be made musically, but not _felt_ musically, when
+fine words are to replace outwardly what is utterly deficient in
+fine feeling inwardly--there you are right--this is a dilemma from
+which no man can extricate himself; for as surely as pure metre,
+happy thoughts, and classical language do not suffice to make a
+good poem, unless a certain flash of poetical inspiration pervades
+the whole, so an opera can only become thoroughly musical, and
+accordingly thoroughly dramatic, by a vivid feeling of life in all
+the characters.
+
+There is a passage on this subject in Beaumarchais, who is censured
+because he makes his personages utter too few fine thoughts, and
+has put too few poetical phrases into their mouths. He answers,
+that this is not his fault. He must confess that during the whole
+time he was writing the piece, he was engaged in the most lively
+conversation with his _dramatis personæ_: that while seated at his
+writing table he was exclaming: "Figaro, prends garde, le Comte
+sait tout!--Ah! Comtesse, quelle imprudence!--vite, sauve-toi,
+petit page;" and then he wrote down their answers, whatever they
+chanced to be,--nothing more. This strikes me as being both true
+and charming.
+
+The sketch of the opera introducing an Italian Carnival, and the
+close in Switzerland, I already knew, but was not aware that it was
+yours. Be so good however as to describe Switzerland with great
+vigour, and immense spirit. If you are to depict an effeminate
+Switzerland, with _jodeln_ and languishing, such as I saw here in
+the theatre last night in the 'Swiss Family,' when the very
+mountains and Alpine horns became sentimental, I shall lose all
+patience, and criticize you severely in Spener's paper. I beg you
+will make it full of animation, and write to me again on the
+subject.
+
+
+     Isola Bella, July 24th, 1831.
+
+You no doubt imagine that you inhale the fragrance of
+orange-flowers, see blue sky, and a bright sun, and a clear lake,
+when you merely read the date of this letter. Not at all! The
+weather is atrocious, rain pouring down, and claps of thunder heard
+at intervals;--the hills look frightfully bleak, as if the world
+were enshrouded in clouds; the lake is grey, and the sky sombre. I
+can smell no orange-flowers, and this island might quite as
+appropriately be called "Isola Brutta!" and this has gone on for
+three days! My unfortunate cloak! I am confessedly the "spirit of
+negation" (I refer to my mother), and as it is at present the
+fashion with every one not to consider the Borromean Islands "by
+any means so beautiful," and somewhat formal; and as the weather
+seems resolved to disgust me with this spot,--from a spirit of
+opposition I maintain that it is perfectly lovely. The approach to
+these islands, where you see crowded together green terraces with
+quaint statues, and many old-fashioned decorations, along with
+verdant foliage, and every species of southern vegetation, has a
+peculiar charm for me, and yet something affecting and solemn too.
+For what I last year saw in all the luxuriance and exuberance of
+wild nature, and to which my eye had become so accustomed, I find
+now cultivated by art, and about to pass away from me for ever.
+There are citron-hedges and orange-bushes; and sharp-pointed aloes
+shoot up from the walls--it is just as if, at the end of a piece,
+the beginning were to be repeated; and this, as you know, I
+particularly like.
+
+In the steamboat was the first peasant girl I have seen here in
+Swiss costume; the people speak a bad half-French Italian. This is
+my last letter from Italy, but believe me the Italian lakes are not
+the least interesting objects in this country; _anzi_,--I never saw
+any more beautiful. People tried to persuade me that the gigantic
+forms of the Swiss Alps that have haunted me from my childhood[17]
+had been exaggerated by my imagination, and that after all a snowy
+mountain was not in reality so grand as I thought. I almost dreaded
+being undeceived, but at first sight of the foreground of the Alps
+from the Lake of Como, veiled in clouds, with here and there a
+surface of bright snow, sharp black points rearing their heads, and
+sinking precipitously into the lake, the hills first scattered over
+with trees and villages, and covered with moss, and then bleak and
+desolate, and on every side deep ravines filled with snow,--I felt
+just as I formerly did, and saw that I had exaggerated nothing.
+
+  [17] The whole family had been in Switzerland in the year 1821.
+
+In the Alps all is more free, more sharply defined; more
+uncivilized, if you will: yet I always feel there both healthier
+and happier. I have just returned from the gardens of the Palace,
+which I visited in the midst of the rain. I wished to imitate
+Albano,[18] and sent for a barber to open a vein: he however
+misunderstood my purpose, and shaved me instead,--a very pardonable
+mistake. Gondolas are landing on every part of the island, for
+to-day is the fête following the great festival of yesterday, in
+honour of which the P. P. Borromeo sent for singers and musicians
+from Milan, to sing and play to the islanders. The gardener asked
+me if I knew what a wind instrument was. I said with a clear
+conscience that I did; and he replied that I ought to try to
+imagine the effect of thirty such instruments, and violins and
+basses, all played at once; but indeed I could not possibly imagine
+it, for it must be heard to be believed. The sounds (continued he)
+seemed to come from Heaven, and all this was produced by
+_philharmony_. What he meant by this term I know not; but the music
+had evidently made more impression on him, than the best orchestra
+often does on musical connoisseurs. At this moment some one has
+just begun to play the organ in the church for Divine service, in
+the following strain:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+Full organ in the bass, Bourdon 16, and reed stops, have a very
+fine effect. The fellow has come all the way from Milan, too,
+expressly to make this disturbance in the church. I must go there
+for a little, so farewell for a few moments. I intend to remain
+here for the night, instead of crossing the lake again, for I am so
+much pleased with this little island. I certainly cannot say that I
+have slept soundly for the last two nights; one night owing to the
+innumerable claps of thunder, the next owing to the innumerable
+fleas; and, in all probability, I have to-night the prospect of
+both combined. But as the following morning I shall be speaking
+French, and have left Italy, and crossed the Simplon, I mean to
+ramble about all this day and to-morrow in true Italian fashion.
+
+  [18] In the 'Titan' of Jean Paul.
+
+I must now relate to you historically how I happened to come here.
+At the very last moment of my stay in Milan, the Ertmanns came to
+my room to bid me farewell, and we took leave of each other more
+cordially than I have done of any one for many a long day. I
+promised to send you many kind wishes from them, though they are
+unacquainted with you, and I also agreed to write to them
+occasionally. Another valued acquaintance I made there, is Herr
+Mozart, who holds an office in Milan; but he is a musician, heart
+and soul. He is said to bear the strongest resemblance to his
+father, especially in disposition; for the very same phrases that
+affect the feelings in his father's letters, from their candour and
+simplicity, constantly recur in the conversation of the son, whom
+no one can fail to love from the moment he is known. For instance,
+I consider it a very charming trait in him, that he is as jealous
+of the fame and name of his father, as if he were an incipient
+young musician; and one evening, at the Ertmanns', when a great
+many of Beethoven's works had been played, the Baroness asked me in
+a whisper to play something of Mozart's, otherwise his son would be
+quite mortified; so when I played the overture to "Don Juan," he
+began to thaw, and begged me to play also the overture to the
+"Flauto Magico" of his "_Vatter_," and seemed to feel truly filial
+delight in hearing it: it is impossible not to like him.
+
+He gave me letters to some friends near the Lake of Como, which
+procured me for once a glimpse of Italian provincial life, and I
+amused myself famously there for a few days with the Doctor, the
+Apothecary, the Judge, and other people of the locality. There were
+very lively discussions on the subject of Sand, and many expressed
+great admiration of him; this appeared strange to me, as the
+occurrence is of such distant date that no one any longer argues on
+the subject. They also spoke of Shakspeare's plays, which are now
+being translated into Italian. The Doctor said that the tragedies
+were good, but that there were some plays about witches that were
+too stupid and childish: one, in particular, "Il Sonno d' una Notte
+di Mezza State." In it the stale device occurred of a piece being
+rehearsed in the play, and it was full of anachronisms and childish
+ideas; on which they all chimed in that it was very silly and
+advised me not to read it.[19] I remained meekly silent, and
+attempted no defence! I bathed frequently in the Lake, and
+sketched, and yesterday rowed on the Lake of Lugano, which frowned
+sternly on us with its cascades and dark canopy of clouds; then
+across the hills to Luvino, and to-day I came here by steam.
+
+  [19] The overture to the "Midsummer Night's Dream" was composed
+  by Mendelssohn as early as the year 1826.
+
+_Evening._--I have this moment returned from the Isola Madre, and
+most splendid it is; spacious, and full of terraces, citron-hedges,
+and evergreen shrubs. The weather has at last become less
+inclement; thus the large white house on the island, with its ruins
+and terraces, looked very pretty. It is indeed a unique land, and I
+only wish I could bring with me to Berlin a portion of the same
+balmy air that I inhaled when in the boat to-day. You have nothing
+like it, and I would rather you enjoyed it, than all the people who
+imbibe it here. A fiercely moustachioed German was with me in the
+boat, who examined all the beautiful scenery as if he were about to
+purchase it and thought it too dear. Presently I heard a trait
+quite in the style of Jean Paul. When we were walking on the
+island, surrounded by verdure, an Italian, who was of the party,
+observed that this was a spot well adapted for lovers to ramble in,
+and to enjoy the charms of nature. "Ah! yes!" said I, in a
+languishing tone. "It was on this account," continued he, "that I
+separated from my wife ten years ago; I established her at Venice
+in a small tobacconist's shop, and now I live as I please. You must
+one day do the same."
+
+The old boatman told us that he had rowed General Bonaparte on this
+lake, and related various anecdotes of him and Murat. He said Murat
+was a most extraordinary man; all the time that he was rowing him
+on the lake, he never ceased singing to himself for a single
+moment, and once when setting off on a journey he gave him his
+spirit-flask, and said he would buy another for himself in Milan. I
+cannot tell why these little traits, especially the singing, seemed
+to realize the man in my mind more than many a book of history.
+
+The "Walpurgis Nacht" is finished and revised, and the overture
+will soon be equally far advanced. The only person who has heard it
+as yet, is Mozart, and he was so delighted with it that the
+well-known composition caused me fresh pleasure; he insisted on my
+publishing it immediately. Pray forgive this letter, written in
+true student phraseology. You no doubt perceive from its style that
+I have not worn a neckcloth for a week past; but I wished you to
+know how gay and happy I have been during the days spent among the
+mountains, and with what pleasure I look forward to those that yet
+await me.
+
+         Yours, FELIX.
+
+
+     A l'Union-prieuré de Chamounix, end of July, 1831.
+
+     My dear Parents,
+
+I cannot refrain from writing to you from time to time, to thank
+you for my wondrously beautiful journey; and if I ever did so
+before, I must do so again now, for more delightful days than those
+on my journey hither, and during my stay here, I never experienced.
+Fortunately you already know this valley, so there is no occasion
+for me to describe it to you; indeed, how could I possibly have
+done so? But this I may say, that nowhere has nature in all her
+glory met my eyes in such brightness as here, both when I saw it
+with you for the first time and now; and as every one who sees it,
+ought to thank God for having given him faculties to comprehend,
+and to appreciate such grandeur, so I must also thank you for
+having supplied me with the means of enjoying such a pleasure.
+
+I had been told that I exaggerated the forms of the mountains in my
+imagination; but yesterday, at the hour of sunset, I was pacing up
+and down in front of the house, and each time that I turned my back
+on the mountains, I endeavoured vividly to represent to myself
+these gigantic masses, and each time when I again faced them, they
+far exceeded my previous conceptions. Like the morning that we
+drove away from this when the sun was rising[20] (no doubt you
+remember it) the hills have been clear and lovely ever since I
+arrived. The snow pure, and sharply defined, and apparently near in
+the dark blue atmosphere; the glaciers thundering unremittingly,
+as the ice is melting; when clouds gather, they lie lightly on the
+base of the mountains, the summits of which stand forth clear
+above. Would that we could see them together! I have passed this
+whole day here quietly, and entirely alone. I wished to sketch the
+outlines of the mountains, so I went out and found an admirable
+point of view, but when I opened my book, the paper seemed so very
+small that I hesitated about attempting it. I have indeed succeeded
+in giving the outlines what is called _correctly_,--but every
+stroke looks so formal, when compared with the grace and freedom
+which everywhere here pervade nature. And then the splendour of
+colour! In short, this is the most brilliant point of my travels;
+and the whole of my excursion on foot, so solitary, independent,
+and enjoyable, is something new to me, and a hitherto unknown
+pleasure.
+
+  [20] In the year 1821.
+
+I must however relate how I came here, otherwise my letter at last
+will contain nothing but exclamations. As I previously wrote to
+you, I had the most odious weather on the Lago Maggiore, and the
+Islands. It continued so incessantly stormy, cold, and wet, that
+the same evening I took my place in the diligence in rather a sulky
+humour, and we drove on towards the Simplon. Scarcely had we been
+journeying for half an hour, when the moon came out, the clouds
+dispersed, and next morning the weather was most bright and
+beautiful. I felt almost ashamed of this undeserved good fortune,
+and I could now thoroughly enjoy the glorious scenery; the road
+winding first through high green valleys, then through rocky
+ravines and meadows, and at last past glaciers and snowy mountains.
+I had with me a little French book on the subject of the Simplon
+road, which both pleased and affected me; for the subject was
+Napoleon's correspondence with the _Directoire_ about the projected
+work, and the first report of the General who crossed the mountain.
+With what spirit and vigour these letters are written! and yet a
+little swagger too, but with such a glow of enthusiasm that it
+quite touched me, as I was driven along this capital level road by
+an Austrian postilion. I compared the fire and poetry displayed in
+every description contained in these letters (I mean those of the
+subaltern General) with the eloquence of the present day, which
+leaves you so terribly cold and is so odiously prosaic in all its
+philanthropic views, and so lame--where there is plenty of
+_fanfaronnade_, but no genuine youth--and I could not but feel that
+a great epoch has passed away for ever. I was unable to divest
+myself of the idea that Napoleon never saw this work--one of
+his favourite conceptions--for he never crossed the Simplon
+when the road was finished, and was thus deprived of this great
+gratification. High up, in the Simplon village, all is bleak, and I
+actually shivered from cold for the first time during the last year
+and a half. A neat civil Frenchwoman keeps the inn on the summit,
+and it would not be easy to describe the sensation of satisfaction
+caused by its thrifty cleanliness, which is nowhere to be found in
+Italy.
+
+We then descended into the Valais, as far as Brieg, where I stayed
+all night, overjoyed to find myself once more among honest, natural
+people, who could speak German, and who plundered me into the
+bargain in the most infamous manner. The following day I drove
+through the Valais--an enchanting journey: the road all along, like
+those you have seen in Switzerland, ran between two lofty ranges of
+mountains, their snowy peaks starting up at intervals, and through
+avenues of green, leafy walnut-trees, standing in front of pretty
+brown houses,--below, the wild grey Rhone,--past Lenk, and every
+quarter of an hour a village with a little church. From Martigny I
+travelled for the first time in my life literally on foot, and as I
+found the guides too dear I went on quite alone, and started with
+my cloak and knapsack on my shoulders. About a couple of hours
+later I met a stout peasant lad, who became my guide, and also
+carried my knapsack; and so we went on past Forclas to Trient, a
+little dairy village, where I breakfasted on milk and honey, and
+thence to the Col de Balme.
+
+The whole valley of Chamouni, and Mont Blanc, with all its
+precipitous glaciers, lay before me bathed in sunshine. A party of
+gentlemen and ladies (one of the latter very pretty and young) came
+from the opposite side on mules, with a number of guides; scarcely
+had we all assembled under one roof, when subtle vapours began to
+rise, shrouding first the mountain and then the valley, and at
+last thickly covering every object, so that soon nothing was to be
+seen. The ladies were afraid of going out into the fog, just as if
+they were not already in the midst of it; at last they set off, and
+from the window I watched the singular spectacle of the caravan
+leaving the house, all laughing, and talking loudly in French and
+English and _patois_. The voices presently became indistinct; then
+the figures likewise; and last of all I saw the pretty girl in her
+wide Scotch cloak; then only glimpses of grey shadows at intervals,
+and they all disappeared. A few minutes later I ran down the
+opposite side of the mountain with my guide; we soon emerged once
+more into sunshine, and entered the green valley of Chamouni with
+its glaciers; and at length arrived here at the Union. I have just
+returned from a ramble to Montanvert, the Mer de Glace, and to the
+source of the Arveiron. You know this splendid scenery, and so you
+will forgive me, if, instead of going to Geneva to-morrow, I first
+make the tour of Mont Blanc, that I may become acquainted with this
+personage from the southern side also, which is I hear the most
+striking. Farewell, dear parents! May we have a happy meeting!--Yours,
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Charney, August 6th, 1831.
+
+     My dear Sisters,
+
+You have, I know, read Ritter's "Afrika" from beginning to end, but
+still I do not think you know where Charney is situated, so fetch
+out Keller's old travelling map, that you may be able to accompany
+me on my wanderings. Trace with your finger a line from Vevay to
+Clarens, and thence to the Dent de Jaman; this line represents a
+footpath; and where your finger has been my legs also went this
+morning--for it is now only half-past seven, and I am still
+fasting. I mean to breakfast here, and am writing to you in a neat
+wooden room, waiting till the milk is made warm for me; without, I
+have a view of the bright blue lake; and so I now begin my journal,
+and mean to continue it as I best can during my pedestrian tour.
+
+_After breakfast._--Heavens! here is a pretty business. My landlady
+has just told me with a long face, that there is not a creature in
+the village to show me the way across the Dent, or to carry my
+knapsack, except a young girl; the men being all at work. I usually
+set off every morning very early and quite alone, with my bundle on
+my shoulders, because I find the guides from the inns both too
+expensive and too tiresome; a couple of hours later I hire the
+first honest-looking lad I see, and so I travel famously on foot. I
+need not say how enchanting the lake and the road hither were; you
+must recall for yourself all the beauties you once enjoyed there.
+The footpath is in continued shade, under walnut-trees and up
+hill,--past villas and castles,--along the lake which glitters
+through the foliage; villages everywhere, and brooks and streams
+rushing along from every nook, in every village; then the neat
+tidy houses,--it is all quite too charming, and you feel so fresh
+and so free. Here comes the girl with her steeple hat. I can tell
+you she is vastly pretty into the bargain, and her name is Pauline;
+she has just packed my things into her wicker basket. Adieu!
+
+
+     Evening, Château d'Oex, candle-light.
+
+I have had the most delightful journey. What would I not give to
+procure you such a day! But then you must first become two youths
+and be able to climb actively, and drink milk when the opportunity
+offered, and treat with contempt the intense heat, the many rocks
+in the way, the innumerable holes in the path, and the still larger
+holes in your boots, and I fear you are rather too dainty for this;
+but it was most lovely! I shall never forget my journey with
+Pauline; she is one of the nicest girls I ever met, so pretty and
+healthy-looking, and naturally intelligent; she told me anecdotes
+about her village, and I in return told her about Italy; but I know
+who was the most amused.
+
+The previous Sunday, all the young people of _distinction_ in her
+village had gone to a place far across the mountain, to dance there
+in the afternoon. They set off shortly after midnight, arrived
+while it was still dark, lighted a large fire and made coffee.
+Towards morning the men had running and wrestling matches before
+the ladies, (we passed a broken hedge testifying to the truth of
+this;) then they danced, and were at home again by Sunday evening,
+and early on Monday morning they all resumed their labours in the
+vineyards. By Heavens, I felt a strong inclination to become a
+Vaudois peasant, while I was listening to Pauline, when from above
+she pointed out to me the villages where they dance when the
+cherries are ripe, and others where they dance when the cows go to
+pasture in the meadows and give milk. To-morrow they are to dance
+in St. Gingolph; they row across the lake, and any one who can
+play, takes his instrument with him; but Pauline is not to be of
+the party, because her mother will not allow it, from dread of the
+wide lake, and many other girls also do not go for the same reason,
+as they all cling together.
+
+She then asked my leave to say good-day to a cousin of hers, and
+ran down to a neat cottage in the meadow; soon the two girls came
+out together and sat on a bench and chattered; on the Col de Jaman
+above, I saw her relations busily mowing, and herding the cows.
+
+What cries and shouts ensued! Then those above began to _jodel_, on
+which they all laughed. I did not understand one syllable of their
+_patois_, except the beginning, which was, Adieu Pierrot! All these
+sounds were taken up by a merry mad echo, that shouted and laughed
+and _jodelled_ too. Towards noon we arrived at Allière. When I had
+rested for a time, I once more shouldered my knapsack, for a fat
+old man provoked me by offering to carry it for me; then Pauline
+and I shook hands, and we took leave of each other. I descended
+into the meadows, and if you do not care about Pauline, or if I
+have bored you with her, it is not my fault, but that of the mode
+in which I have described her; nothing could be more pleasant in
+reality, and so was my further journey. I came to a cherry-orchard,
+where the people were gathering the fruit, so I lay down on the
+grass and ate cherries for a time along with them. I took my
+mid-day rest at Latine, in a clean wooden house. The carpenter who
+built it gave me his company to some roast lamb, and pointed out to
+me with pride every table, and press, and chair.
+
+At length I arrived here, at night, through dazzling green meadows,
+interspersed with houses, surrounded by fir-trees and rivulets: the
+church here stands on a velvet green eminence; more houses in the
+distance, and still further away, huts and rocks; and in a ravine,
+patches of snow still lying on the plain. It is one of those
+idyllic spots such as we have seen together in Wattwyl, but the
+village smaller and the mountains more green and lofty. I must
+conclude however to-day by a high eulogy on the Canton de Vaud. Of
+all the countries I know this is the most beautiful, and it is the
+spot where I should most like to live when I become really old. The
+people are so contented, and look so well, and the country also.
+Coming from Italy it is quite touching to see the honesty that
+still exists in the world,--happy faces, a total absence of
+beggars, or saucy officials: in short, there is the most complete
+contrast between the two nations. I thank God for having created so
+much that is beautiful; and may it be His gracious will to permit
+us all, whether in Berlin, England, or in the Château d'Oex, to
+enjoy a happy evening and a tranquil night!
+
+
+     Boltigen, August 7th, evening.
+
+The lightning and thunder are terrific outside, and torrents of
+rain besides; in the mountains you first learn respect for weather.
+I have not gone further, for it would have been such a pity to
+traverse the lovely Simmen valley under an umbrella. It was grey
+morning, but delightfully cool for walking in the forenoon. The
+valley at Saanen, and the whole road, is incredibly fresh and gay.
+I am never weary of looking at the verdure. I do believe that if
+during a long life I were always gazing at undulating verdant
+meadows, dotted over with reddish-brown houses, I should always
+experience the same pleasure in looking at them. The road winds the
+whole way through meadows of this kind, and past running streams.
+
+At noon I dined at Zweisimmen, in one of those enormous Bernese
+houses, where everything glitters with neatness and cleanliness,
+and where even the smallest detail is carefully attended to. I
+there dispatched my knapsack by the diligence to Interlaken, and am
+now about to walk as a regular pedestrian through the country; a
+shirt in my pocket, a brush and comb, and my sketch-book, this is
+all I require; but I am very tired. May the weather be fine
+to-morrow!
+
+
+     Wimmis, the 8th.
+
+A pretty affair! the weather is three times as bad as ever. I must
+give up my plan of going to Interlaken to-day, as there is no
+possibility of getting on. For the last few hours the water has
+been pouring straight down, as if the clouds above had been fairly
+squeezed out; the roads are as soft as feather-beds; only
+occasional shreds of the mountains are to be seen, and even these
+but rarely. I almost thought sometimes that I was in the Margravate
+of Brandenburg, and the Simmen valley looked perfectly flat. I was
+obliged to button my waistcoat tight over my sketch-book, for very
+soon my umbrella was of no use whatever, and so I arrived here to
+dinner about one o'clock. I had my breakfast in the following
+place. [_Vide_ page 234.]
+
+
+     Weissenburg, August 8th.
+
+I sketched this on the spot with a pen, so do not laugh at the bold
+stream. I passed the night very uncomfortably at Boltigen. There
+was no room in the inn, owing to a fair, so I was obliged to lodge
+in an adjacent house, where there were swarms of vermin quite as
+bad as in Italy, a creaking house clock, striking hoarsely every
+hour, and a baby that screeched the whole night. I really could not
+help for a time noticing the child's cries, for it screamed in
+every possible key, expressive of every possible emotion; first
+angry, then furious, then whining, and when it could screech no
+longer, it grunted in a deep bass. Let no one tell me that we must
+wish to return to the days of our childhood, because children are
+so happy. I am convinced that such a little mortal as this, flies
+into a rage just as we do, and has also his sleepless nights, and
+his passions, and so forth.
+
+   [Illustration]
+
+This philosophical view occurred to me this morning, while I was
+sketching Weissenburg, and so I wished to communicate it to you on
+the spot; but I took up the 'Constitutionnel,' in which I read
+that Casimir Périer wishes to resign, and many other things that
+furnish matter for reflection; among others a most remarkable
+article on the cholera, which I should like to transcribe, for it
+is so extraordinary. The existence of this disease is totally and
+absolutely denied; only one person had it in Dantzic,--a Jew,--and
+he got well. Then followed a number of "Hegelisms" in French, and
+the election of the deputies--oh world!--As soon as I had finished
+reading the paper, I was obliged to set off again in the rain
+through the meadows. No such enchanting country as this is to be
+seen, even in a dream; in the worst weather, the little churches,
+and the numerous houses, and shrubs, and rills are still truly
+lovely. The verdure to-day was quite in its element. Dinner has
+been long over, and it is still pouring. I intend to go no further
+than Spiez this evening. I regret much that I can neither see this
+place, which seems beautifully situated, nor Spiez, which I know
+from Rösel's sketches. This is, in fact, the climax of the whole
+Simmen valley, and thence the old song says:--
+
+  [Music: Hin-term Nie-sen, vorn am Nie-sen, sind die be-sten
+  Al-pen im Sie-be-thal, Sie-be-thal,
+  Sie-be-thal, Sie-be-thal, Sie-be-thal.]
+
+I sang this the whole day while walking along. The Siebethal,
+however, showed no gratitude for the compliment, and the rain
+continued unremittingly.
+
+
+     Wyler, evening.
+
+They could not take me in at Spiez, for there is no inn there where
+you can lodge, so I was obliged to return here. I very much admired
+the situation of Spiez; it is built on a rock, which projects into
+the lake, with numbers of turrets, and gables, and peaks. There I
+saw a manor-house, with an orangery; a sulky-looking nobleman with
+two sporting dogs at his heels; a little church, and terraces with
+bright flowers. It was all very lovely. To-morrow I shall see it
+from the other side, if the weather permits. To-day it has rained
+for three hours consecutively, and I was well soaked on the way
+here. The mountain streams are superb in such weather, for they
+leap and rage furiously. I crossed one of these demons, the Kander,
+which seemed to have taken leave of its senses, leaping and
+blustering, and foaming; the water looked quite brown, and
+scattered its yellow spray in all directions. A black peak of the
+mountains was here and there visible through the rain-laden clouds,
+which hung deeper into the valley than I ever before saw them. Yet
+the day was most enjoyable.
+
+
+     Wyler, the 9th, morning.
+
+To-day the weather is worse than ever. It has rained the whole
+night through, and this morning too it is pouring. I have however
+intimated that I shall not set out in such weather, and if it
+continues I shall write to you again to-night from Wyler. In the
+meantime I have an opportunity of making acquaintance with my Swiss
+host. They are very primitive. I could not get on my shoes, because
+they had shrunk, owing to the rain. The landlady asked if I wished
+to have a shoe-horn; and as I said I did, she brought me a
+tablespoon; but it answered the purpose. And moreover they are
+eager politicians. Over my bed hangs a horrible distorted face,
+under which is written. "Brinz Baniadofsgi." If he had not a kind
+of Polish costume, it would be difficult to discover whether it is
+intended for a man or a woman, for neither the portrait itself nor
+the inscription throw much light on the subject.
+
+
+     Evening, at Untersee.
+
+All jesting is turned into sad earnest, which in these days may
+easily be the case. The storm has raged furiously, and caused great
+damage and devastation; the people here say that they remember no
+more violent storm and rain for many years; and the hurricane
+rushes on with such incredible rapidity. This morning early the
+weather was merely wet and disagreeable, and yet this afternoon all
+the bridges are swept away, and every passage blocked up for the
+moment. There has been a landslip at the Lake of Brienz, and
+everything is in an uproar.
+
+I have just heard here that war has been proclaimed in Europe; so
+the world certainly bears a wild, bleak aspect at this time, and I
+ought to feel thankful, that at all events for the present I have a
+warm room here, and a comfortable roof over my head. The rain
+ceased for a time early this morning, and I thought that the clouds
+were fairly exhausted; so I left Wyler, but soon found that the
+roads were sadly cut up; but worse was to come; the rain began
+again gently, but came down so violently about nine o'clock, and in
+such sudden squalls, that it was evident something strange was
+brewing. I crept into a half built hut, where a great mass of
+fodder was lying, and nestled comfortably among the fragrant hay. A
+soldier of the Canton, who was on his way to Thun, also crept in
+from the other side, and in the course of an hour, as the weather
+did not improve, we went on our different paths.
+
+I was obliged to take shelter again under a roof at Leisengen, and
+waited there a long time; but as my luggage was at Interlaken, a
+distance of only two hours from thence, I thought that I would set
+the weather at defiance; so about one o'clock I set out for
+Interlaken. There was literally nothing to be seen but the grey
+surface of the lake,--no mountains, and seldom even the outlines of
+the opposite shore. The little springs, which as you may remember
+often run along by the footpaths, had swollen into streams,
+through which I was obliged to wade; and where the road was hilly,
+the waters accumulated in the hollows and formed a pool, so I was
+forced to jump over dripping hedges, into marshy meadows; the small
+blocks of wood--by means of which brooks are crossed here--lay deep
+under the water; at one moment I found myself between two of these
+brooks, which had run into each other, and for a considerable time
+I was obliged to walk against the current, above my ankles in
+water. All the streams are black, or chocolate-brown, looking like
+earth flowing along. Torrents poured down from above; the wind
+shook down the water from the dripping walnut-trees; the waterfalls
+which tumble into the lake thundered frightfully from both shores.
+You could trace the course of the brown muddy streaks, rushing
+along through the pure waters of the lake, which, in the midst of
+all this uproar, remained perfectly tranquil, its surface scarcely
+ruffled, quietly receiving all the blustering streams that poured
+into its bosom.
+
+A man now came up, who had taken off his shoes and stockings, and
+turned up his trowsers. This made me feel rather nervous. Presently
+I met two women, who said that I could not go through the village,
+for all the bridges were gone. I asked how far it was to
+Interlaken. "A good hour," they said. I could not make up my mind
+to turn back, so I went on towards the village, where the people
+shouted to me from the windows, that I could come no further,
+because the waters were rushing down so impetuously from the
+mountains; and certainly there was a fine commotion in the middle
+of the village. The muddy stream had swept everything along with
+it, eddying round the houses, and running along the meadows and
+footpaths, and finally thundering down into the lake. Luckily there
+was a little boat there, in which I was ferried across to Neuhaus,
+though this expedition in an open boat, in torrents of rain, was
+far from pleasant. My condition, when I arrived at Neuhaus, was
+miserable enough; I looked as if I wore long black boots over my
+light-coloured trowsers, my shoes and stockings quite up to my
+knees, dark brown; then came the original white, then a soaked blue
+paletôt; even my sketch-book, that I had buttoned under my
+waistcoat, was wet through.
+
+I arrived in this plight at Interlaken, where I was very ill
+received, for the people there either could not or would not find
+room for me, and so I was forced to return to Untersee, where I am
+famously lodged, and most comfortable. Singularly enough, I had
+been all along anticipating with such pleasure revisiting the inn
+at Interlaken, of which I had so many reminiscences, and I drove up
+in my little Neuhaus carriage to the Nuss-Baum Platz, and saw the
+well-known glass gallery; the pretty landlady, too, came to the
+door, but somewhat aged and altered. Neither the dreadful storms,
+nor the various discomforts I had endured, annoyed me half so much
+as not being able to remain at Interlaken, consequently for the
+first time since I left Vevay I was out of humour for half an hour,
+and obliged to
+
+  [Music]
+
+sing Beethoven's adagio in A flat major, three or four times over,
+before I could recover my equanimity. I learned here, for the first
+time, the damage the storm had already done, and may yet do, for
+the rain is still incessant.
+
+_Half-past Nine o'clock at Night._--The bridge at Zweilütschenen is
+carried away; the _vetturini_ from Brienz, and Grindelwald, will
+not encounter the risk of driving home, from the fear of some rock
+falling on their heads. The water here has risen to within a foot
+and a half of the Aar bridge; the gloom of the sky I cannot
+describe. I mean to wait here patiently; besides, I do not require
+the aid of localities, to enable me to summon up my reminiscences.
+They have given me a room where there is a piano; it indeed bears
+the date of the year 1794, and somewhat resembles in tone the
+little old "Silbermann" in my room at home, so I took a fancy to it
+at the very first chord I struck, and it also recalls you to my
+mind. This piano has outlived many things, and probably never
+dreamt that I was likely to compose by its aid, as I was not born
+till 1809, now fully two-and-twenty years ago; in the meantime, the
+piano, though seven-and-thirty years old, has plenty of good
+material in it yet.
+
+I have some new "Lieder" in hand, dear sisters. You have not seen
+my favourite one in E major "Auf der Reise,"--it is very
+sentimental. I am now composing one which will not, I fear, be very
+good; but it will, at all events, please us three, for it is at
+least well intended. The words are Goethe's, but I don't say what
+they are; it is very daring in me to compose for this poetry, and
+the words are by no means suitable for music, but I thought them so
+divinely beautiful, that I could not resist singing them to myself.
+Enough for to-day; so good night, dear ones.
+
+
+     August 10th.
+
+The weather this morning is clear and bright, and the storm has
+passed away; would that all storms ended as quickly, and were as
+soon allayed! I have passed a glorious day, sketching, composing,
+and inhaling fresh air. In the afternoon I went on horseback to
+Interlaken, for no man can go there on foot at this moment. The
+whole road is flooded, so that even on horseback I got very wet. In
+this place, too, every street is inundated and impassable. How
+beautiful Interlaken is! How humble and insignificant we feel when
+we see how splendid the good Lord has made this world; and nowhere
+can you see it in greater magnificence than here. I sketched for my
+father one of the walnut-trees he so much admires, and for the same
+reason I mean to send him a faithful drawing of one of the Bernese
+houses. Various parties of ladies and gentlemen, and children,
+drove past and stared at me; I thought to myself that they were now
+enjoying the same luxury I formerly did, and would fain have called
+out to them not to forget this! Towards evening, the snowy
+mountains were glowing in the clearest outlines and in the
+loveliest hues.
+
+When I came back. I asked for some music paper, and they referred
+me to their Pastor, and he to the Forest-ranger, whose daughter
+gave me two pretty neat sheets. The "Lied" which I alluded to
+yesterday is now finished; I cannot help after all telling you what
+it is--but you must not laugh at me--it is actually,--but don't
+think I am seized with hydrophobia--a sonnet, "Die Liebende
+schreibt."[21] I am afraid its merit is not great; I think it was
+more inwardly felt than outwardly well expressed; still there are
+some good passages in it, and to-morrow I am going to set to music
+a little poem of Uhland's; a couple of pieces for the piano are
+also in progress. I can unfortunately form no judgment of my new
+compositions; I cannot tell whether they are good or bad; and this
+arises from the circumstance that all the people to whom I have
+played anything for the last twelve months, forthwith glibly
+declared it to be wonderfully beautiful, and that will never do. I
+really wish that some one would let me have a little rational blame
+once more, or what would be still more agreeable, a little
+_rational_ praise, and then I should find it less indispensable to
+act the censor towards myself, and to be so distrustful of my own
+powers. Nevertheless, I must go on writing in the meantime.
+
+  [21] In the "Liederheft," Opus 15 of his posthumous works.
+
+When I was at the Forest-ranger's, I heard that the whole country
+was devastated, and the most sad intelligence comes from all sides.
+All the bridges in the Hasli valley are entirely swept away, and
+also many houses and cottages. A man came here to-day from
+Lauterbrunnen, and he was up to his shoulders in water; the high
+road is ruined, and what sounded most dismal of all to me, a
+quantity of furniture and household things were seen floating down
+the Kander, coming no one knows whence. Happily the waters are
+beginning to subside, but the damage they have done cannot so
+easily be repaired. My travelling plans have also been considerably
+disturbed by these inundations, for, if there be any risk, I shall
+certainly not go into the mountains.
+
+
+     The 11th.
+
+So I now close the first part of my journal, and send it off to
+you. To-morrow I shall begin a new one, for I intend then to go to
+Lauterbrunnen. The road is practicable for pedestrians, and not an
+idea of any danger; travellers from thence have come here to-day,
+but for carriages, the road will not be passable during the
+remainder of the year. I purpose, therefore, proceeding across the
+Lesser Scheideck to Grindelwald, and by the Great Scheideck to
+Meiringen; by Furka and Grimsel to Altorf, and so on to Lucerne;
+storms, rain, and everything else permitting,--which means, if God
+will. This morning early, I was on the Harder, and saw the
+mountains in the utmost splendour. I never remember the Jungfrau so
+clear and so glowing as both yesterday evening and at early dawn
+to-day. I rode back to Interlaken, where I finished my sketch of
+the walnut-tree. After that I composed for a time, and wrote three
+waltzes for the Forest-ranger's daughter on the remaining
+music-paper she had given me, politely presenting them to her
+myself. I have just returned from a watery expedition to an
+inundated reading-room, as I wished to see how the Poles are
+getting on--unluckily there is no reference to them in the papers.
+I must now occupy myself till the evening in packing, but I am most
+reluctant to leave this room, where I am so comfortable, and shall
+sadly miss my little piano. I intend to sketch the view from this
+window with my pen on the back of my letter, and also to write out
+my second "Lied," and then Untersee will soon also belong to my
+reminiscences. "Ach! wie schnell!" I quote myself, which is not
+over-modest, but these lines recur to me but too often when the
+days are shortening, the leaves of the travelling map turned over,
+and first Weimar, then Munich, and lastly Vienna, are all things of
+the past year. Well! here you have my window! [_Vide_ page 246.]
+
+_An hour later._--My plans are altered, and I stay here till the
+day after to-morrow. The people say that by that time the roads
+will be considerably better, and there is plenty here both to see
+and to sketch. The Aar has not risen to such a height for seventy
+years. To-day people were stationed on the bridge, with poles and
+hooks, watching to catch any fragments of the broken-down bridges.
+It did look so strange to see a black object come swimming along
+in the distance from the hills, which was at last recognized to be
+a piece of balustrade, or a cross-beam, or something of the sort,
+when all the people made a rush at it, and tried to fish it up with
+their hooks, and at length succeeded in dragging the monster out of
+the water. But enough of water,--that is, of my journal. It is now
+evening, and dark. I am writing by candle-light, and should he so
+glad if I could knock at your door, and take my seat beside you at
+the round table. It is the old story over again. Wherever it is
+bright and cheerful, and I am well and happy, I most keenly feel
+your absence, and most long to be with you again. Who knows,
+however, whether we may not come here together in future years, and
+then think of this day, as we now do of former ones? But as none
+can tell whether this may ever come to pass, I shall meditate no
+longer on the subject, but write out my "Lied," take another peep
+of the mountains, wish you all happiness and good fortune, and thus
+close my journal.
+
+   [Illustration]
+
+
+     Lauterbrunnen, August 13th, 1831.
+
+I have just returned from an expedition on foot to the Schmadri
+Bach, and the Breithorn. All that you can by possibility conceive
+as to the grandeur and imposing forms of the mountains here, must
+fall far short of the reality of nature. That Goethe could write
+nothing in Switzerland but a few weak poems, and still weaker
+letters, is to me as incomprehensible as many other things in this
+world. The road here is again in a lamentable state; where, six
+days ago, there was the most beautiful highway, there is now only a
+desolate mass of rocks; numbers of huge blocks lying about, and
+heaps of rubbish and sand. No trace whatever of human hands to be
+seen. The waters, indeed, have entirely subsided, but they are
+still in a troubled state, for from time to time you can hear the
+stones tossed about, and the waterfalls also in the midst of their
+white foam, roll down black stones into the valley.
+
+My guide pointed out to me a pretty new house, standing in the
+midst of a wild turbulent stream; he said that it belonged to his
+brother-in-law and formerly stood in a beautiful meadow, which had
+been very profitable; the man was obliged to leave the house during
+the night; the meadow has disappeared for ever, and masses of
+pebbles and stones have usurped its place. "He never was rich, but
+now he is poor," said he, in concluding his sad story. The
+strangest thing is, that in the very centre of this frightful
+devastation,--the Lütschine having overflowed the whole extent
+of the valley--among the marshy meadows, and masses of rocks,
+where there is no longer even a trace of a road, stands a
+_char-à-banc_--and is likely to stand for some time to come. It
+chanced that the people in it wished to drive through at the very
+time of the hurricane; then came the inundation, so they were
+forced to leave the carriage and everything else to fate, thus the
+_char-à-banc_ is still standing waiting there. It was a very
+frightful sight when we reached the spot, where the whole valley,
+with its roads and embankments, is a perfect rocky sea; and my
+guide, who went first, kept whispering to himself, "'sisch
+furchtbar!" The torrent had carried into the middle of the stream
+some large trunks of trees, which are standing aloft; for at the
+same moment some huge fragments of rocks having been flung against
+them, the bare trees were closely wedged in betwixt them, and they
+now stand nearly perpendicular in the bed of the river.
+
+I should never come to an end were I to try to tell you all the
+various forms of havoc which I saw between this place and
+Untersee. Still the beauty of the valley made a stronger impression
+on me than I can describe. It is much to be regretted, that when
+you were in this country, you went no further than Staubbach; for
+it is from there that the valley of Lauterbrunnen really begins.
+The Schwarzer Mönch, and all the other snowy mountains in the
+background, become more mighty and grand, and on every side bright
+foaming cascades tumble into the valley. You gradually approach the
+mountains covered with snow, and the glaciers in the background,
+through pine woods, and oaks, and maple-trees. The moist meadows,
+too, were covered with a profusion of brilliant flowers--snakewort,
+the wild scabious, campanulas, and many others. The Lütschine had
+accumulated masses of stones at the sides, having swept along
+fragments of rocks, as my guide said, "bigger than a stove," then
+the carved brown wooden houses, and the hedges; it is all beautiful
+beyond measure! Unfortunately we could not get to the Schmadri
+Bach, as bridges, paths, and fords, were all gone; but it was a
+walk I can never forget.
+
+I also tried to sketch the Mönch; but what can you hope to do with
+a small pencil? Hegel indeed says, "that every single human thought
+is more sublime than the whole of Nature;" but in this place I
+consider that too presumptuous; the axiom sounds indeed very fine,
+but is a confounded paradox nevertheless. I am quite contented, in
+the meantime, to adhere to Nature, which is the safest of the two.
+You know the situation of the inn here, and if you cannot recall
+it, refer to my former Swiss drawing book, where you will find it
+sketched, badly enough, and where I put in a footpath in front,
+from imagination, which made me laugh heartily to-day, when I
+thought of it. I am at this moment looking out of the same window,
+and gazing at the dark mountains, for it is late in the evening,
+that is, a quarter to eight o'clock, and I have an idea, which is
+"more sublime than the whole of Nature"--I mean to go to bed; so
+good night, dear ones.
+
+
+     The 14th, ten o'clock in the forenoon.
+
+From the dairy hut on the Wengern Alp, in heavenly weather, I send
+you my greetings.
+
+
+     Grindelwald, evening.
+
+I could not write more to you early this morning; I was most
+reluctant to leave the Jungfrau. What a day this has been for me!
+Ever since we were here together I have wished to see the Lesser
+Scheideck once more. So I woke early to-day, with some misgivings,
+for so much might intervene--bad weather, clouds, rain, fogs--but
+none of these occurred. It was a day as if made on purpose for me
+to cross the Wengern Alp. The sky was flecked with white clouds,
+floating far above the highest snowy peaks; no mists below on any
+of the mountains, and all their pinnacles glittering brightly in
+the morning air; every undulation, and the face of every hill,
+clear and distinct. Why should I even attempt to portray it? You
+have already seen the Wengern Alp, but at that time we had bad
+weather, whereas to-day the whole mountain range was in holiday
+attire. Nothing was wanting; from thundering avalanches, to its
+being Sunday, and people dressed in their best going to church,
+just as it was then.
+
+The hills had only dwelt in my memory as gigantic peaks, for their
+great altitude had entirely absorbed me. To-day I was struck with
+amazement at the immense extent of their base, their solid,
+spacious masses, and the connection of all these huge piles, which
+seem to lean towards each other, and to reach out their hands to
+one another. In addition to this you must imagine every glacier,
+and snowy plateau, and point of rock, dazzlingly lighted up and
+glittering. Then the far summits of distant mountain ranges
+stretching hither, as if surveying the others. I do believe that
+such are the thoughts of the Almighty. Those who do not yet know
+Him, may here see Him, and the nature He created, visibly
+displayed. Then the fresh, bracing air, which refreshes you when
+weary, and cools you when it is warm,--and so many springs! I must
+at some future time write you a separate treatise on springs, but I
+have not time for it to-day, as I have something particular to tell
+you.
+
+Now you will say, I suppose, he came down the mountain again, and
+is going to inform us once more how beautiful Switzerland is. Not
+at all. When I arrived at the herdsman's hut, I was told that in a
+meadow far up the Alps, there was to be a great fête this very
+day, and I saw people at intervals climbing the mountain. I was not
+at all fatigued; an Alpine fête is not to be seen every day; the
+weather said, _yes_; the guide was willing. "Let us go to
+Intramen," said I. The old herdsman went first, so we were obliged
+to climb very vigorously; for Intramen is more than a thousand feet
+higher than the Lesser Scheideck. The herdsman was a ruthless
+fellow, for he ran on before us like a cat; he soon took pity on my
+guide, and relieved him of my cloak and knapsack, but even with
+them he continued to push forward so eagerly that we really could
+not keep up with him. The path was frightfully steep; he extolled
+it, however, saying that there was a much nearer, but much steeper
+track: he was about sixty years of age, and when my youthful guide
+and I with difficulty surmounted a hill, we invariably saw him
+descending the next one. We walked on for two hours in the most
+fatiguing path I ever encountered; first a steep ascent, then down
+again into a hollow, over heaps of crumbling stones, and brooks and
+ditches, across two meadows covered with snow, in the most profound
+solitude, without a footpath, or the most remote trace of the hand
+of man; occasionally we could still hear the avalanches from the
+Jungfrau; otherwise all was still, and not a tree to be seen.
+
+When this silence and solitude had continued for some time, and we
+had clambered to the top of a grassy acclivity, we suddenly came in
+sight of a vast number of people standing in a circle, laughing,
+speaking, and shouting. They were all in gay dresses, and had
+flowers in their hats; there were a great many girls, some tables
+with casks of wine, and all around deep solemn silence, and
+tremendous mountains. It was singular that while I was in the act
+of climbing, I thought of nothing but rocks and stones, and the
+snow and the track; but the moment I saw human beings, all the rest
+was forgotten, and I only thought of men, and their sports, and the
+merry fête. It was really a fine sight. The scene was in a spacious
+green meadow far above the clouds; opposite were the snowy
+mountains in all their prodigious altitude, more especially the
+dome of the great Eiger, the Schreckhorn, and the Wetterhörner, and
+all the others as far as the Blümli's Alp; the Lauterbrunnen valley
+lay far beneath us in the misty depths, quite small, as well as our
+road of yesterday, with all the little cataracts like threads, the
+houses like dots, and the trees like grass. Far in the background
+the Lake of Thun occasionally glanced out of the mist.
+
+The crowd now began wrestling, and singing, and drinking, and
+laughing; all healthy, strong men. I was much amused by the
+wrestling, which I had never before seen. The girls served the men
+with _Kirschwasser_ and _Schnapps_; the flasks passed from hand to
+hand, and I drank with them, and gave three little children some
+cakes, which made them quite happy; a very tipsy old peasant sang
+me some songs; then they all sang; then the guide favoured us with
+a modern song; and then little boys fought. _Everything_ pleased
+me on the Alps, and I remained lying there till towards evening,
+and made myself quite at home. We descended rapidly into the
+meadows below, and soon descried the familiar inn, and its windows
+glittering in the evening sun; a fresh breeze from the glaciers
+began to blow; this soon cooled us. It is now getting late, and
+from time to time avalanches are heard,--so thus has my Sunday been
+spent.--A fête-day indeed!
+
+
+     On the Faulhorn, August 15th.
+
+I am shivering with cold! Outside thick snow is falling, and the
+wind raging and blustering. We are eight thousand feet above the
+level of the sea, and a long tract of snow to traverse, but here I
+am! Nothing can be seen; all day the weather has been dreadful.
+When I remember how fine it was yesterday, while I earnestly wish
+that it may be as fine to-morrow, it reminds me of life, for we are
+always hovering between the past and the future. Our excursion of
+yesterday seems as far past and remote, as if I knew it only from
+old memories, and had scarcely been present myself; for to-day when
+during five mortal hours we were struggling on, against rain and
+fog, sticking in the mud, and seeing nothing round us but grey
+vapours, I could scarcely realize that it ever was or ever will be
+again fine weather, or that I ever lay idly stretched on this wet
+marshy grass. Besides, everything here wears such a wintry aspect;
+heated stoves, thick snow, cloaks, freezing, shivering people. I am
+at this moment in the highest inn in Europe; and just as in St.
+Peter's, you look down on every church, and on the Simplon, upon
+every road, so from hence I look down on all other inns; but not
+_morally_, for this is little more than a few wooden planks. Never
+mind. I am now going to bed, and I will no longer watch my own
+breath. Good night! "Tom's a cold."
+
+
+     Hospital, August 18th.
+
+I have not been able to open my journal for two or three days, as
+when night came I had no longer time for anything, but to dry
+myself and my clothes at the fire, to warm myself, to sigh over the
+weather, like the stove behind which I took refuge, and to sleep a
+good deal; besides, I did not wish to try your patience, by my
+everlasting repetitions of how deep I had sunk in the mud, and how
+incessantly it rained, and so forth. During the last few days in
+reality I went through the most beautiful country, and yet saw
+nothing but thick fogs, and water in the sky, and from the sky, and
+on the earth. I passed places that I had long wished to visit,
+without being able to enjoy them; what also damped my writing mood,
+was being obliged to battle with the weather, and if it continues
+the same, I shall only write occasionally, for really I should have
+nothing to say, but "a grey sky--rain and fog." I have been on the
+Faulhorn, the Great Scheideck, on Grimsel Spital, and to-day I
+crossed Grimsel and Furka, and the principal objects I have seen
+were the points of my shabby umbrella, and I had not even a glimpse
+of the huge mountains. At one moment, to-day, the Finsteraarhorn
+came to light, but it looked as savage as if it wished to devour
+us; and yet if we were a single half-hour without rain, it was
+truly beautiful. A journey on foot through this country, even in
+the most unfavourable weather, is the most enchanting thing you can
+possibly imagine; if the sky were bright, I think the excess of
+pleasure would be quite overpowering; I must not therefore complain
+too much of the weather, for I have had my full share of enjoyment.
+
+During the last few days I felt like Tantalus. When I was on the
+Scheideck, a glimpse of the lower part of the Wetterhorn was
+sometimes visible through the clouds, and it seemed beyond measure
+magnificent and sublime; but I only saw the base. On the Faulhorn,
+I could not distinguish objects fifty paces off, although I stayed
+there till ten o'clock in the morning. We went down to the
+Scheideck in a heavy snow-storm, by a very wet and difficult path,
+which the incessant rain had made worse than usual. We arrived at
+Grimsel Spital in rain and storm. To-day I wished to have ascended
+the Sidelhorn, but was obliged to give it up on account of the fog.
+The Mayenwand was shrouded in grey clouds, and we had only a single
+peep of the Finsteraarhorn, when we were on the Furka. We also
+arrived here in a torrent of rain and water everywhere, but all
+this does not signify. My guide is a capital fellow: if it rains,
+he sings and _jodels_; if it is fine, so much the better; and
+though I failed in seeing some of the finest objects, still I saw a
+great deal that was interesting.
+
+On this occasion I have formed a particular friendship for the
+glaciers; they are indeed, the most marvellous monsters in the
+world. How strangely they are all tumbled about; here, a row of
+jagged points, there, toppling crags, and above, towers and
+bastions, while on every side, crevices and ravines are visible,
+all of the most wondrous pure ice, that rejects all soil of earth,
+casting up again on the surface the stones, sand, and gravel, flung
+down by the mountains. Then the superb colouring, when the sun
+shines on them, and their mysterious advance--they sometimes move
+on a foot and a half in a single day, so that the people in the
+village are in the greatest anxiety and alarm, when the glacier
+arrives so quietly, and yet with such irresistible force, for it
+shivers rocks and stones when they lie in the way--then the ominous
+crashing and thundering, and the rushing of so many springs near
+and round. They are splendid miracles. I was in the Rosenlaui
+glacier, which forms a kind of cave, that you can creep through; it
+looks as if built of emeralds, only more transparent. Above,
+around, on all sides, you can see rivulets running between the
+clear ice. In the centre of this narrow passage, the ice has left a
+large round window, through which you look down on the valley, and
+issue forth again under an arch of ice, and high above, black peaks
+rear their heads, from which masses of ice roll down in the boldest
+undulations. The glacier of the Rhone is the most imposing that I
+have seen, and the sun burst forth on it as we passed early this
+morning. This is a suggestive sight, and you get a casual glimpse
+of the rocky peak of a mountain, a plateau covered with snow,
+cataracts, and bridges spanning them, and masses of crumbling
+stones and rocks; in short, even if you see little in Switzerland,
+it is at all events more than is to be seen in any other country.
+
+I have been drawing very busily, and think I have made some
+progress. I even tried to sketch the Jungfrau; it will at least
+serve as a reminiscence, and I can enjoy the thought that these
+strokes were actually made on the spot itself. I see people rushing
+through Switzerland, and declaring that they find nothing to admire
+there, or anywhere else (except themselves); not the least affected
+nor roused, remaining cold and prosaic, even in presence of the
+mountains; when I meet such people I should like to give them a
+good drubbing. Two Englishmen and an English lady are at this
+moment sitting beside me near the stove; they are as wooden as
+sticks. We have been travelling the same road for a couple of days,
+and I declare the people have never uttered a syllable except of
+abuse, that there were no fireplaces either on the Grimsel, or
+here; but that there are _mountains_ here, is a fact to which they
+never allude; their whole journey is occupied in scolding their
+guide, who laughs at them, in quarrelling with the innkeepers, and
+in yawning in each others' faces. They think everything
+commonplace, because they are themselves commonplace, therefore
+they are not happier in Switzerland than they would be in Bernau.
+I maintain that happiness is relative; another would thank God that
+he could see all this, and so I will be that other!
+
+
+     Fluelen, August 19th.
+
+A day made for a journey; fine, and enjoyable, and bracing. When we
+wished to start this morning at six o'clock, there was such a storm
+of sleet and snow that we were obliged to wait till nine o'clock,
+when the sun came forth, the clouds dispersed, and we had
+delightful bright weather as far as this place; but now sombre
+clouds, heavy with rain, have collected over the lake, so that no
+doubt to-morrow the old troubles will break loose again. But how
+glorious this day has been, so clear and sunny--we had the most
+charming journey! You know the St. Gothard Road in all its beauty;
+you lose much by coming down from above, instead of ascending from
+this point, for the grand surprise of the Urner Loch is entirely
+lost, and the new road which has been made, with all the grandeur,
+as well as convenience, of the Simplon, impairs the effect of the
+Devil's Bridge: inasmuch as close beside it a new arch, much bolder
+and larger, has been constructed, which makes the old bridge look
+quite insignificant, but the ancient crumbling walls look much more
+romantic and picturesque. Though the view of Andermatt is thus
+lost, and the new Devil's Bridge far from being poetical, still you
+go merrily downhill all day, on a delightfully smooth road, flying
+rapidly past the various localities, and instead of being sprinkled
+by the foam of the waterfall on the old bridge as formerly, and
+endangered by the wind, you now pass along far above the stream,
+between two ranges of solid parapets.
+
+We came past Göschenen and Wasen and presently appeared the huge
+firs and beech-trees close to Amsteg; then the charming valley of
+Altorf, with its cottages, meadows, and woods, its rocks and snowy
+mountains. We rested at Altorf in a Capuchin Convent, situated on a
+height; and finally, here I am on the banks of the Vierwaldstadt
+Lake. To-morrow I purpose crossing the lake to Lucerne, where I
+hope to find letters from you. I shall then also get rid of a party
+of young people from Berlin, who have been pursuing almost the same
+route with me, meeting me at every turn, and boring me terribly;
+the patriotism of a lieutenant, a dyer, and a young carpenter,--all
+three bent on destroying France,--was peculiarly distasteful to me.
+
+
+     Sarnen, the 20th.
+
+I crossed the Vierwaldstadt Lake early this morning, in a continued
+pour of rain, and found your welcome letter of the 5th in Lucerne.
+As it contained nothing but good tidings, I immediately arranged a
+tour of three days to Unterwalden and the Brünig. I intend to call
+again at Lucerne for your next letter, and then I am off to the
+West, and out of Switzerland. I shall take leave of it with deep
+regret. The country is beautiful beyond all conception; and though
+the weather is again odious,--rain and storms the whole day, and
+all through the night,--yet the Tellen Platte, the Grütli, Brunnen
+and Schwytz, and the dazzling green of the meadows this evening in
+Unterwalden, are too lovely ever to be forgotten. The hue of this
+green is most unique, refreshing the eye and the whole being. I
+shall certainly attend to your kind precautionary injunctions, dear
+Mother, but you need be under no apprehensions about me. I am by no
+means careless with regard to my health, and have not, for a long
+time, felt so well as during my pedestrian excursions in
+Switzerland. If eating, and drinking, and sleeping, and music in
+one's head, can make a man healthy, then, God be praised, I may
+well call myself so; for my guide and I vie with each other in
+eating and drinking, and not less so unluckily in singing. In
+sleeping alone I surpass him; and though I sometimes disturb him by
+my trumpet or oboe tones, he in turn cuts short my morning sleep.
+Please God, therefore, we shall have a happy meeting. Before that
+time arrives, however, many a page of my journal must yet travel to
+you; but even this interval will quickly pass, just as everything
+quickly passes, except indeed what is best of all!--so let us be
+true and loving to each other.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Engelberg, August 23rd, 1831.
+
+My heart is so full that I must tell you about it. In this
+enchanting valley I have just taken up Schiller's "Wilhelm Tell,"
+and read half of the first scene; there is surely no genius like
+that of Germany! Heaven knows why it is so, but I do think that no
+other nation could fully comprehend such an opening scene, far less
+be able to compose it. This is what I call a poem, and a beginning;
+first the pure, clear verse, in which the lake, smooth as a mirror,
+and all else, is so vividly described, and then the slow
+commonplace Swiss talk, and Baumgarten coming in,--it is quite
+glorious! How fresh, how powerful, how exciting! We have no such
+work as this in music, and yet even that sphere ought one day to
+produce something equally perfect. It is so admirable in him too,
+to have created an entire Switzerland for himself, inasmuch as he
+never saw it, and yet all is so faithful and so strikingly
+truthful; the people and life, the scenery and nature. I was
+delighted when the old innkeeper here, in a solitary mountain
+village, brought me from the monastery the book with the well-known
+characters and old familiar names; but the opening again quite
+surpassed all my expectations. It is now more than four years since
+I read it. I mean presently to go over to the monastery, to work
+off my excitement on the organ.
+
+     Afternoon.
+
+Do not be astonished at my enthusiasm, but read the scene through
+again yourself, and then you will find my excitement quite natural.
+Such passages as those where all the shepherds and hunters shout
+"Save him! save him!" in the close at the Grütli, when the sun is
+about to rise, could indeed only have occurred to a German, and
+above all to Schiller; and the whole piece is crowded with similar
+passages. Let me refer to that particular one at the end of the
+second scene, where Tell comes with the rescued Baumgarten to
+Stauffacher, and the agitating conference closes in such
+tranquillity and peace: this, along with the beauty of the thought,
+is so thoroughly Swiss. Then the beginning of the Grütli--the
+symphony which the orchestra ought to play at the end I composed in
+my mind to-day, because I could do nothing satisfactory on the
+little organ: altogether a variety of plans and ideas occurred to
+me. There is a vast deal to do in this world, and I mean to be
+industrious. The expression that Goethe made use of to me, that
+Schiller could have _supplied_ two great tragedies every year, with
+its business-like tone, always inspired me with particular respect:
+but not till this morning did the full force of its signification
+become clear to me, and it has made me feel that I must set to work
+in earnest. Even the mistakes are captivating, and there is
+something grand in them; and though certainly Bertha, Rudenz, and
+old Attinghausen, seem to me great blemishes, still Schiller's idea
+is evident, and he was in a manner forced to do as he has done; and
+it is consolatory to find that even so great a man could for once
+commit such an egregious mistake.
+
+I have passed a most enjoyable morning, and I feel in the kind of
+mood which makes you long to recall such a man to life, in order to
+thank him, and inspiring an earnest desire, one day, to compose a
+work which shall impress others with similar feelings.
+
+Probably you do not understand what induced me to take up my
+quarters here in Engelberg. It happened thus:--I have not had a
+single day's rest since I left Untersee, and therefore wished to
+remain for a day at Meiringen, but was tempted by the lovely
+weather in the morning, to come on here. The usual rain and wind
+assailed me on the mountains, and so I arrived very tired. This is
+the nicest inn imaginable,--clean, tidy, very small and rustic,--an
+old white-haired innkeeper; a wooden house, situated in a meadow, a
+little apart from the road; and the people so kind and cordial,
+that I feel quite at home. I think this kind of domestic comfort is
+only to be found among those who speak the German tongue; at all
+events, I never met with it anywhere else; and though other nations
+may not feel the want of it, or scarcely care about it, still _I_
+am a native of Hamburg, and so it makes me feel happy and at home.
+It is not therefore strange that I decided on taking my day's rest
+here with these worthy old people. My room has windows on every
+side, commanding a view of the valley: the room is prettily
+panelled with wood; some coloured texts and a crucifix are hanging
+on the walls; there is a solid green stove, and a bench encircling
+it, and two lofty bedsteads. When I am lying in bed I have the
+following view:--
+
+   [Illustration]
+
+I have failed again in my buildings, and in the hills too, but I
+hope to make a better sketch of it for you in my book, if the
+weather is tolerable to-morrow. I shall always consider this valley
+to be one of the loveliest in all Switzerland. I have not yet seen
+the gigantic mountains by which it is encompassed, as they have
+been all day shrouded in mist; but the beautiful meadows, the
+numerous brooks, the houses, and the foot of the hills, so far as I
+could see them, are exquisitely lovely. The green of the
+Unterwalden is more brilliant than in any other canton, and it is
+celebrated for its meadows even among the Swiss. The previous
+journey too from Sarnen was enchanting, and never did I see larger
+or finer trees, or a more fruitful country. Moreover the road is
+attended with as few difficulties as if you were traversing a large
+garden; the declivities are clothed with tall slender beeches; the
+stones overgrown by moss and herbs; then there are springs, brooks,
+small lakes, and houses: on one side is a view of the Unterwalden
+and its green plains; and shortly after a view of the whole vale of
+Hasli, the snowy mountains, and cataracts leaping down from rocky
+precipices; the road too is shaded the whole way by enormous trees.
+
+Yesterday, early, as I told you, I was tempted by the bright sun to
+cross the Genthel valley to ascend the Joch, but on the summit the
+most dreadful weather set in; we were obliged to make our way
+through the snow, and this was sometimes anything but pleasant. We
+speedily, however, emerged out of the sleet and snow, and an
+enchanting moment ensued, when the clouds broke, while we were
+still standing in them; and far beneath us, we saw through the
+mists as through a black veil, the green valley of Engelberg. We
+soon made our way down, and heard the silvery bell of the monastery
+ring out the Ave Maria. We next saw the white building on the
+meadow, and arrived here after an expedition of nine hours. I need
+not say how acceptable at such a time is a comfortable inn, and how
+good the rice and milk seems, and how long you sleep next morning.
+
+To-day we have had very disagreeable weather, so they brought me
+"Wilhelm Tell" from the library of the monastery, and the rest you
+know. I was much struck by Schiller having so completely failed in
+portraying Rudenz, for the whole character is feeble, and without
+sufficient motive, and it seems as if he had resolved purposely to
+represent him throughout, in the worst possible light. His words,
+in the scene with the apple, might tend to redeem him, but being
+preceded by that with Bertha, they make no impression. When he
+joins the Swiss, after the death of Attinghausen, it might be
+supposed that he is changed, but he instantly proclaims that his
+Bertha is carried off, so again he has as little merit as ever. It
+occurred to me that if he had uttered the very same manly words
+against Gessler, without the explanation with Bertha having
+previously taken place, and if such a result had arisen out of this
+in the following act, the character would have been much better,
+and the explanatory scene not so merely theatrical as it now is.
+This is certainly very like the egg and the hen, but I should like
+to hear your opinion on the subject. I dare not speak to one of our
+learned men on such matters; these gentlemen are a vast deal too
+wise! If however I chance some of these days to meet one of those
+youthful modern poets, who look down on Schiller, and only partly
+approve of him; so much the worse for him, for I must infallibly
+crush him to death.
+
+Now, good night; I must rise very early to-morrow; it is to be a
+grand fête to-day in the monastery, and a solemn religious service,
+and I am to play the organ for them. The monks were listening this
+morning while I was extemporizing a little, and were so pleased,
+that they invited me to play the people in and out at their
+festival to-morrow. The father organist has also given me the
+subject on which I am to extemporize; it is better than any that
+would have occurred to an organist in Italy.
+
+  [Music]
+
+I shall see to-morrow what I can make of this. I played a couple of
+new pieces of mine on the organ this afternoon in the church, and
+they sounded rather well. When I came past the monastery the same
+evening, the church was closed, and scarcely were the doors shut,
+when the monks began to sing nocturns fervently, in the dark
+church; they intoned the deep B, which vibrated splendidly, and
+could be heard far down the valley.
+
+
+     August 24th.
+
+This has been another splendid day--the weather bright and
+enjoyable, and the bluest sky that I have seen since I left
+Chamouni; it was a holiday in the village, and in all the
+mountains. After long-continued fogs, and every variety of bad
+weather, once more to see from the window in the morning the clear
+range of mountains and their pinnacles, is indeed a grand
+spectacle. They are acknowledged to be finest after rain, and
+to-day they looked as fresh as if newly created. This valley is not
+surpassed by any in Switzerland. If I ever return here this shall
+be my head-quarters, for it is even more lovely, and more spacious
+and unconfined than Chamouni, and more free than Interlaken. The
+Spann-örter are incredibly grand peaks, and the round Titlis
+heavily laden with snow, the foot of which lies in the meadows, and
+the effect of the Urner rocks in the distance, are also well worth
+seeing: it is now full moon, and the valley is clothed in beauty.
+
+This whole day I have done nothing but sketch, and play the organ:
+in the morning I performed my duties as organist--it was a grand
+affair. The organ stands close to the high altar, next to the
+stalls for the "patres;"--so I took my place in the midst of the
+monks, a very Saul among the prophets. An impatient Benedictine at
+my side played the double bass, and others the violins; one of
+their dignitaries was first violin. The _pater præceptor_ stood in
+front of me, sang a solo, and conducted with a long stick, as thick
+as my arm. The _élèves_ in the monastery formed the choir, in their
+black cowls; an old decayed rustic played on an old decayed oboe,
+and at a little distance two more were puffing away composedly at
+two huge trumpets with green tassels; and yet with all this the
+affair was gratifying. It was impossible not to like the people,
+for they had plenty of zeal, and all worked away as well as they
+could. A mass, by Emmerich, was given, and every note of it
+betrayed its "powder and pigtail." I played thorough-bass
+faithfully from my ciphered part, adding wind instruments from time
+to time, when I was weary; made the responses, extemporized on the
+appointed theme, and at the end, by desire of the Prelate, played a
+march, in spite of my repugnance to do this on the organ, and was
+then honourably dismissed.
+
+This afternoon I played again alone to the monks, who gave me the
+finest subjects in the world--the "Credo" among others--a
+_fantasia_ on the latter was very successful; it is the only one
+that in my life I ever wished I could have written down, but now I
+can only remember its general purport, and must ask permission to
+send Fanny, in this letter, a passage that I do not wish to forget.
+By degrees various counter subjects were introduced in opposition
+to the _canto fermo_; first dotted notes, then triplets, at last
+rapid semiquavers, through which the "Credo" was to work its way;
+quite at the close, the semiquavers became very wild, and arpeggios
+followed on the whole organ in G minor. I proceeded to take up the
+theme on the pedal in long notes (during the continued arpeggios),
+so that it ended with A. On the A, I made a pedal point in
+arpeggios, and then it suddenly occurred to me to play the
+arpeggios with the left hand alone, so that the right hand could
+introduce the "Credo" again in the treble with A, thus:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+etc.
+
+This was followed by a stop on the last note, and a pause, and then
+it concluded. I wish you had heard it, for I am sure you would have
+been pleased. It was time for the monks to go to _complines_, and
+we took leave of each other cordially. They wished to give me
+letters of introduction for some other places in Unterwalden, but I
+declined this, as I intend to go to Lucerne early to-morrow, and
+after that I expect not to be more than five or six days longer in
+Switzerland.--Your
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+TO WILHELM TAUBERT.
+
+     Lucerne, August 27th, 1831.
+
+I wish to offer you my thanks, but I really do not know where to
+begin first; whether for the pleasure your songs caused me in
+Milan, or for your kind letter which I received yesterday; both
+however are closely connected, and so I think we have already made
+acquaintance. It is quite as fitting that we should be presented to
+each other through the medium of music-paper, as by a third person
+in society; indeed I think that in the former case you feel even
+more intimate and confidential. Moreover, persons who introduce any
+one often pronounce the name so indistinctly, that you seldom know
+who is standing before you; and they never say one word as to
+whether the man is gay and good-humoured, or melancholy and gloomy.
+So we are infinitely better off. Your songs have pronounced your
+name clearly and plainly; they also disclose what you think and
+what you are; that you love music, and wish to make progress; so
+thus perhaps I know you better than if we had frequently met.
+
+What a source of pleasure it is, and how cheering, to know there is
+another musician in the world who has the same purposes and
+aspirations, and who follows the same path as yourself; perhaps you
+cannot feel this so strongly as I do at this moment, who have just
+come from a country where music no longer exists among the people.
+I never before could have believed this of any nation, and least of
+all of Italy, with such rich and luxuriant nature, and such
+glorious, inspiriting antecedents. But alas! the occurrences I
+latterly witnessed there, fully proved to me that even more than
+harmony is dead in that land; it would indeed be marvellous if any
+music could exist where there is no solid principle. At last I was
+really bewildered, and thought that I must have become a
+hypochondriac, for all the buffoonery I saw was most distasteful to
+me, and yet a vast number of serious people and sedate citizens
+entered into it. When they played me anything of their own, and
+afterwards praised and extolled my pieces, I cannot tell you how
+repugnant it was to me; I felt disposed to become a hermit, with
+beard and cowl, and the whole world was at a discount with me. In
+Italy you first learn to value a true musician; that is, one whose
+thoughts are absorbed in _music_, and not in money, or decorations,
+or ladies, or fame; it is doubly delightful when you find that,
+without your being aware of it, your own ideas exist and are
+developed elsewhere; your songs therefore gave me especial
+pleasure, because I could gather from them that you must be a
+genuine musician, and so let us mutually stretch out our hands
+across the mountains.
+
+I beg that you will also look on me in the light of a friend, and
+not write so formally as to my "counsel" and "teaching." This
+portion of your letter makes me feel almost nervous, and I scarcely
+know what to say; the most agreeable part however is your promise
+to send me something to Munich, and to write to me again. I will
+then tell you frankly and freely my honest opinion, and you shall
+do the same with regard to my new compositions, and thus I think we
+shall give each other good counsel. I am very eager to see those
+recent works of yours that you have promised me, for I do not doubt
+that I shall receive much gratification from them, and many things
+which are only foreshadowed in the former songs, will probably in
+these become manifest and distinct. I shall therefore say nothing
+to-day of the impression your songs have made on me, because
+possibly any suggestion or question may be already answered in what
+you are about to send me. I earnestly entreat of you to write to me
+fully, and in detail, about yourself, in order that we may become
+better acquainted. I can then write to you what I purpose and what
+I think, and thus we shall continue in close connection.
+
+Let me know what you have recently composed and are now composing;
+your mode of life in Berlin, and your plans for the future; in
+short all that concerns your musical life, which will be of the
+greatest interest to me. Probably this will be obvious in the music
+you have so kindly promised me, but fortunately both may be
+combined. Have you hitherto composed nothing on a greater scale;
+some wild symphony, or opera, or something of the kind? I, for my
+part, feel at this moment the most invincible desire to write an
+opera, and yet I have scarcely leisure even to commence any work,
+however small. I do believe that if the libretto were to be given
+to me to-day, the opera would be written by to-morrow, so strong
+is my impulse towards it. Formerly the bare idea of a symphony was
+so exciting, that I could think of nothing else when one was in my
+head; the sound of instruments has such a solemn and glorious
+effect; and yet for some time past I have laid aside a symphony
+that I had commenced, in order to compose on a cantata of Goethe's
+merely because it included, besides the orchestra, voices and a
+chorus. I intend now, indeed, to complete the symphony, but there
+is nothing I so strongly covet as a regular opera.
+
+Where the libretto is to come from I know less than ever since last
+night, when for the first time for more than a year I saw a German
+æsthetic paper. The German Parnassus seems in as disorganized a
+condition as European politics. God help us! I was obliged to
+digest the supercilious Menzel, who presumed modestly to depreciate
+Goethe,--and the supercilious Grabbe, who modestly depreciates
+Shakspeare,--and the philosophers who proclaim Schiller to be
+rather trivial! Is this new, arrogant, overbearing spirit, this
+perverse cynicism, as odious to you as it is to me? and are you of
+the same opinion with myself, that the first and most indispensable
+quality of any artist is to feel respect for great men, and to bow
+down in spirit before them; to recognize their merits, and not to
+endeavour to extinguish their great flame, in order that his own
+feeble rushlight may burn a little brighter? If a person be
+incapable of feeling true greatness, I should like to know how he
+intends to make _me_ feel it? And as all these people, with their
+airs of contempt, only at last succeed in producing imitations of
+this or that particular form, without any presentiment of free,
+fresh, creative power, unfettered by individual opinion, or
+æsthetics or criticism, or the whole world besides; as this is the
+case, do they not deserve to be abused? and I do abuse them. Pray
+do not take this amiss; perhaps I have gone too far. But, it was
+long since I had read anything of the kind, and it vexes me to see
+that such folly still goes on, and that the philosopher who
+maintains that art is dead, still persists in declaring that it is
+so; as if art could in reality ever die.
+
+These are truly strange, wild, and troubled times; and let those
+who feel that art is no more, allow it for Heaven's sake to rest in
+peace; but however roughly the storm may rage without, it cannot so
+quickly succeed in sweeping away the dwelling; and he who works on
+quietly within, fixing his thoughts on his own capabilities and
+purposes, and not on those of others, will see the hurricane blow
+over, and afterwards find it difficult to realize that it ever was
+so violent as it appeared at the time. I have resolved to act thus
+so long as I can, and to pursue my path steadily, for at all events
+no one will deny that music still exists, and that is the chief
+thing.
+
+How cheering it is to meet with a person who has chosen the same
+object and the same means as yourself! and I would fain tell you
+how gratifying each new corroboration of this is to me, but I
+scarcely know how to do so. You must imagine it for yourself, and
+your own thoughts must supply any deficiencies; so farewell! Pray
+let me hear from you soon, and frequently. I beg to send my kindest
+wishes to our dear friend Berger;[22] I have been long intending to
+write to him, but have never yet accomplished it. I shall certainly
+however do so one of these days. Forgive this long, dry letter,
+next time it shall be more interesting, and now once more
+farewell.--Yours,
+
+        FELIX MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY.
+
+  [22] Ludwig Berger, Mendelssohn's instructor on the piano.
+
+
+     Righi Culm, August 30th, 1831.
+
+I am on the Righi! I need say no more, for you know this mountain.
+What can be more grand or superb? I left Lucerne early this
+morning. All the mountains were obscured, and the weather-wise
+prophesied bad weather. As however I have always found that the
+very opposite of what the wise people say invariably occurs! I
+tried to make out signs for myself, though hitherto, in spite of
+their aid, I have found my predictions quite as false as those of
+the others; but this morning I really thought the weather very
+tolerable; still, as I did not wish to begin my ascent while all
+was still shrouded in vapour (for the Faulhorn had taught me
+caution), I spent the whole morning in sauntering round the foot
+of the Righi, gazing eagerly upwards, to see if the mists were
+likely to clear off. At last, about twelve o'clock, at Küssnacht, I
+stood on the cross path leading towards the Righi to the right, and
+Immensee to the left; and making up my mind not to see the Righi on
+this occasion, I took a tender farewell of it, and went through the
+Hohle Gasse to the Lake of Zug, along a charming path, past the
+water, to Arth; but could not resist frequently glancing at the
+summit of the Righi Culm, to see if it was becoming clearer; and
+while I was dining at Arth it did clear up. The wind was very
+favourable, the clouds lifted on every side; so I made up my mind
+to begin the ascent.
+
+There was no time to lose, however, if I wished to witness the
+sunset; so I went along at a steady mountain pace, and in the
+course of two hours and three-quarters I reached the Culm, and the
+well-known house. I then became aware that there were about forty
+men standing on the top, uplifting their hands in admiration, and
+making signs in a state of the greatest excitement. I ran up, and a
+new and wondrous sight it was. All the valleys were filled with
+fogs and clouds, and above them the lofty, snowy crests of the
+mountains and the glaciers and black rocks stood out bright and
+clear. The mists swept onwards, veiling a portion of the scenery;
+then came forth the Bernese Alps, the Jungfrau, the Mönch, and the
+Finsteraarhorn; then Titlis, and the Unterwalden mountains. At last
+the whole range was distinctly visible; the clouds in the valleys
+now also began to roll away, disclosing the lakes of Lucerne and
+Zug, and towards the hour of sunset, only thin streaks of bright
+vapour still floated on the landscape. Coming from the Alp, and
+then looking towards the Righi, it was as if the overture and other
+portions were repeated at the end of an opera. All the spots whence
+you have seen such sublime scenery, the Wengern Alp, the Wetter
+Hörner, the valley of Engelberg, here meet the eye once more in
+close vicinity, and you can take leave of them all. I had imagined
+that it was only at first, when still ignorant of the glaciers,
+that so great an impression was made, from the influence of
+surprise, but I think the effect at the last is even more striking
+than ever.
+
+
+     Schwytz, August 31st.
+
+Yesterday and to-day I gratefully recalled the happy auspices under
+which I first made acquaintance with this part of the world. The
+remembrance of your profound admiration of these wonders, elevating
+you above every-day life, has contributed not a little to awaken
+and to quicken my own perception of them. I often to-day recurred
+to your delight, and the deep impression it made on me at the time.
+So the Righi is evidently disposed to be gracious to our family,
+and in consequence of this kindly feeling towards us, conferred on
+me to-day a sunrise quite as brilliant and splendid as when you
+were here. The waning moon, the lively Alpine horn, the
+long-protracted rosy dawn which first stole over the cold.
+shadowy, snowy mountains, the white clouds on the Lake of Zug, the
+clear, sharp peaks bending towards each other in all directions,
+the light which gradually crept on the heights, the restless,
+shivering people, wrapped in coverlets, the monks from Maria zum
+Schnee, nothing was wanting.
+
+I could not tear myself away from this spectacle, and remained on
+the summit for six consecutive hours, gazing at the mountains. I
+thought that when next I saw them there might be many changes, so I
+wished to imprint the sight indelibly on my memory. People came and
+went, and talked of these anxious, troubled times, of politics, and
+of the grand mountain range before us.
+
+Thus the morning passed away, and at last, at half-past ten
+o'clock, I was obliged to go; indeed it was high time, as I wished
+to get to Einsiedel the same day, by Hacken. On my way, however, in
+the steep path leading to Lowerz, my trusty old umbrella, which
+also served me as a mountain staff, broke to pieces; this detained
+me, so that I preferred remaining here, and to-morrow I hope to be
+quite fresh for a start.
+
+
+     Wallenstadt, September 2nd.
+
+(Year of rains and storms.) Motto of the copper-smith--"If you
+can't sing a new song, then begin the old one afresh." Here am I
+again in the midst of fogs and clouds, unable to go either
+backwards or forwards, and if fortune specially favours us, we may
+have a slight inundation into the bargain. When I crossed the lake,
+the boatmen prophesied very fine weather, consequently the rain
+began half an hour later, and is not likely soon to cease, for
+there are piles of heavy, gloomy clouds, such as you can only see
+on the mountains. If it were twice as bad three days hence, I
+should not care, but it would be grievous indeed if Switzerland
+were to take leave of me with so ill-omened an aspect.
+
+I have this moment returned from the church, where I have been
+playing the organ for three hours, far into the twilight: an old
+man, a cripple, blew the bellows for me, and except him, there was
+not a single soul in the church. The only stops I found available,
+were a very weak croaking flute, and a quavering deep pedal
+diapason, of sixteen feet. I contrived to extemporize with these
+materials, and at last subsided into a choral melody in E minor,
+without being able to remember what it was. I could not get rid of
+it, when all at once it occurred to me that it was a Litany, the
+music of which was in my head because the words were in my heart,
+so then I had a wide field, and plenty of food for extemporizing.
+At length the consumptive deep bass resounded quite alone in E
+minor, thus:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+etc. and then came in its turn the flute, high up in the treble,
+with the choral in the same key, and so the sounds of the organ
+gradually died away, and I was obliged to stop, from the church
+being so dark.
+
+In the meantime there was a terrible hurricane of wind and rain
+outside, and not a trace of the grand lofty rocky precipices; the
+most dreary weather! and then I read some dreary newspapers, and
+everything wore a grey hue. Tell me, Fanny, do you know Auber's
+"Parisienne?" I consider it the very worst thing he has ever
+produced, perhaps because the subject was really sublime, and for
+other reasons also. Auber alone could have been guilty of composing
+for a great nation, in the most violent state of excitement, a
+cold, insignificant piece, quite commonplace, and trivial. The
+_refrain_ revolts me every time I think of it,--it is as if
+children were playing with a drum, and singing to it--only more
+objectionable. The words also are worthless; little antitheses and
+points are quite out of place here. Then the emptiness of the
+music! a march for acrobats, and at the end a mere miserable
+imitation of the "Marseillaise." Such music is not what this epoch
+demands. Woe to us _if_ it be indeed what suits this epoch,--if a
+mere copy of the Marseillaise Hymn be all that is required. What in
+the latter is full of fire, and spirit, and impetus, is in the
+former ostentatious, cold, calculated, and artificial. The
+"Marseillaise" is as superior to the "Parisienne" as everything
+produced by genuine enthusiasm must be, to what is made for a
+purpose, even if it be with a view to promote enthusiasm; it will
+never reach the heart, because it does not come from the heart.
+
+By the way, I never saw such a striking identity between a poet and
+a musician, as between Auber and Clauren. Auber faithfully renders
+note for note, what the other writes word for word--braggadocio,
+degrading sensuality, pedantry, epicurism, and parodies of foreign
+nationality. But why should Clauren be effaced from the literature
+of the day? Is it prejudicial to any one that he should remain
+where he is? and do you read what is really good with less
+interest? Any young poet must indeed be degenerate, if he does not
+cordially hate and despise such trash; but it is only too true that
+the people like him; so it is all very well, it is only the
+people's own loss. Write me your opinion of the "Parisienne." I
+sometimes sing it to myself for fun, as I go along; it makes a man
+walk like a chorister in a procession.
+
+
+     Sargans, September 3rd, noon.
+
+Wretched weather! it has rained all night, and all the morning too,
+and the cold as severe as in winter; deep snow is lying on the
+adjacent hills. There has been again a tremendous inundation in
+Appenzell, which has done the greatest damage, and destroyed all
+the roads. At the Lake of Zurich, there are numbers of pilgrimages,
+and processions, on account of the weather. I was obliged to drive
+here this morning, as all the footpaths were covered with mud and
+water. I shall remain till to-morrow, when the diligence passes
+through at an early hour, and I intend to go with it up the valley
+of the Rhine, as far as Altstetten.
+
+To-morrow I shall probably have reached, or crossed, the boundaries
+of Switzerland, for my pleasure excursion is now over. Autumn is
+arrived, and I have no right to complain if I pass a few tiresome
+days, after so many enchanting ones, that I can never forget. On
+the contrary, I think I almost like it; there is always enough to
+be done, even in Sargans, (a wretched hole,) and in a regular
+deluge, like that of to-day--for happily an organ is always to be
+found in this country; they are certainly small, and the lower
+octave, both in the key-board and the pedal, imperfect, or as I
+call it, crippled; but still they are organs, and that is enough for
+me.
+
+I have been playing all this morning, and really begun to practise,
+for it is a shame that I cannot play Sebastian Bach's principal
+works. I intend, if I can manage it, to practise for an hour every
+day in Munich, as after a couple of hours' work to-day, I certainly
+made considerable progress with my feet (_nota bene_, sitting).
+Ritz once told me that Schneider, in Dresden, played him the D
+major fugue, in the "wohl-temperirten Clavier," on the organ,
+supplying the bass with the pedal.
+
+  [Music]
+
+This had hitherto appeared to me so fabulous, that I could never
+properly comprehend it. It recurred to me this morning when I was
+playing the organ, so I instantly attempted it, and I at least see
+that it is far from being impossible, and that I shall accomplish
+it. The subject went pretty well, so I practised passages from the
+D major fugue, for the organ, from the F major toccata, and the G
+minor fugue, all of which I knew by heart. If I find a tolerable
+organ in Munich, and not an imperfect one, I will certainly conquer
+these, and feel childish delight at the idea of playing such pieces
+on the organ. The F major toccata, with the modulation at the
+close, sounded as if the church were about to tumble down; what a
+giant that Cantor was!
+
+Besides organ-playing, I have a good many sketches to finish, in my
+new drawing book, (one was entirely filled in Engelberg) and then I
+must eat like six hundred wrestlers. After dinner I practise the
+organ again, and thus a rainy day passes at Sargans. It seems
+prettily situated, with a castle on the hill, but I cannot go a
+step beyond the door.
+
+_Evening._--Yesterday at this time, I still projected a pedestrian
+tour, and wished at all events to go through the whole of the
+Appenzell. It was a strange feeling when I learned that all
+mountain excursions were probably at an end for this year: the
+heights are covered with deep snow, for just as it has rained here,
+in the valley, for thirty-six hours, it has snowed incessantly on
+the hills above. The flocks have been obliged to come down into the
+valley from the Alps, where they ought to have remained for a
+whole month yet, so that all idea of any footpaths is out of the
+question. Yesterday I was still on the hills, but now they will be
+inaccessible for six months to come. My pedestrian excursions are
+over; wondrously beautiful they were, and I shall never forget
+them.
+
+I mean to work hard at music, and high time that I should. I played
+on the organ till twilight, and was trampling energetically on the
+pedal, when we suddenly became aware that the deep C sharp in the
+great diapason, went buzzing softly on without ceasing; all our
+pressing, and shaking, and thumping on the keys, was of no avail,
+so we were obliged to climb into the organ among the big pipes. The
+C sharp continued gently humming,--the fault lay in the bellows;
+the organist was in the greatest perplexity, because to-morrow is a
+fête day; at last I stuffed my handkerchief into the pipe, and
+there was no more buzzing, but no more C sharp either. I played
+this passage incessantly, all the same:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+and it did very well.
+
+I am now going to finish my sketch of the Glacier of the Rhone, and
+then the day will be at my own disposal; which means that I am
+going to sleep. I will write to you on the next page to-morrow
+evening wherever I am, for to-day I have no idea where I shall be.
+Good night! Eight is striking in F minor, and it is raining and
+blowing in F sharp minor or G sharp minor; in short, in every
+possible sharp key.
+
+  [Music]
+
+
+     St. Gall, the 4th.
+
+Motto--"Vous pensez que je suis l'Abbé de St. Gall" (Citoyen).[23]
+I do feel so comfortable here, after braving such storms and
+tempests. During the four hours when I was crossing the mountains
+from Altstetten to this place, I was engaged in a regular battle
+with the elements; when I tell you that I never experienced
+anything like the storm, nor even imagined anything approaching to
+it, this does not say much; but the oldest people in the Canton
+declare the same: a large manufactory has been demolished, and
+several persons killed. To-morrow, in my last letter from
+Switzerland, I will tell you of my being again obliged to travel on
+foot, and arriving here, after crossing by Appenzell, which looked
+like Egypt after the seven plagues. The bell is now ringing for
+dinner, and I mean to feast like an abbot.
+
+  [23] Mendelssohn jokingly alludes to a poem of _Bürger_,--Der Abt
+  von St. Gallen.
+
+
+     Lindau, September 5th.
+
+Opposite me lies Switzerland, with her dark blue mountains,
+pedestrian journeys, storms, and glorious heights and valleys. Here
+ends the greatest part of my journey, and my journal also.
+
+At noon to-day, I crossed the wild grey Rhine in a ferry-boat,
+above Rheineck, and now here I am, already in Bavaria. I have of
+course entirely given up my projected excursion on foot, through
+the Bavarian mountains; for it would be folly to attempt anything
+of the kind this year. For the last four days it has rained more or
+less with incessant vehemence; it seemed as if Providence were
+wroth. I passed to-day through extensive orchards, which were not
+under water, but fairly submerged by mud and clay; everything looks
+deplorable and depressing; you must therefore forgive the doleful
+style of this last sheet. I never in any landscape saw a more
+dreary sight than the sward of the green hills, covered with deep
+snow; while below, the fruit-trees, with their ripe fruit, were
+standing reflected in the water. The scanty covering of muddy snow,
+which lay on the fir-woods and meadows, looked the personification
+of all that was dismal. A Sargans burgher told me that in 1811 this
+little town had been entirely burnt down, and recently with
+difficulty rebuilt; that they depend chiefly on the produce of
+their vineyards, which have been this year destroyed by
+hail-storms, and the Alps also were now no longer available; this
+gives rise to serious reflections, and to anxious thoughts with
+regard to this year.
+
+It is singular enough that if I am obliged to go on foot in such
+weather, and fairly exposed to it, I am not in the least annoyed;
+on the contrary, I rather rejoice in setting it at defiance. When I
+arrived by the diligence yesterday at Altstetten, in freezing
+cold, like a day in December, I found that there was no carriage
+road to Tourgen, to which place I had unluckily sent on my cloak
+and knapsack on the last fine day. I was obliged to have them the
+same evening, for the cold was intense, so I did not hesitate long,
+but set off once more for the last time to cross the mountains, and
+arrived in the Canton of Appenzell.
+
+The state of the woods, and hills, and meadows, and little bridges,
+baffles all description; being Sunday, and divine service going on,
+I failed in procuring a guide; not a living soul met me the whole
+way, for all the people had crept into their houses, so I toiled on
+quite alone towards Tourgen. To pass through a wood in such
+weather, and along such paths, inspires a wonderful sense of
+independence. Moreover I am now quite perfect in the Swiss _jodeln_
+and crowing, so I shouted lustily, and _jodelled_ several airs at
+the pitch of my voice, and arrived in Tourgen in capital spirits.
+The people in the inn there were rude and saucy, so I politely
+said, "You be hanged! I shall go on;" and taking out my map, I
+found that St. Gall was the nearest convenient place, and in fact
+the only practicable route. I could not succeed in persuading any
+one to go with me in such horrible weather, so I resolved to carry
+my own things, abusing all Swiss cordiality.
+
+Shortly afterwards, however, came the reverse of the medal, which
+not unfrequently occurs. I went to the peasant who had brought my
+luggage here, and found him in his pretty newly-built wooden house,
+and I had thus an opportunity of seeing a veritable and genuine
+Swiss interior, just as we imagine it to be. He and his whole
+family were sitting round a table, the house clean and warm, and
+the stove burning. The old man rose and gave me his hand, and
+insisted on my taking a seat; he then sent through the whole place
+to try to get me a carriage, or a man to carry my things, but as no
+one would either drive or walk, he at last sent his own son with
+me. He only asked two _Batzen_ for carrying my knapsack for two
+hours. A very pretty fair daughter was sitting at the table sewing,
+the mother reading a thick book, and the old man himself studying
+the newspapers; it was a charming picture.
+
+When at last I set off, the weather seemed to say, "If you defy me
+I can defy you also," for the storm broke loose with redoubled
+violence, and an invisible hand appeared to seize my umbrella at
+intervals, shaking it and crumpling it together, and my fingers
+were so benumbed that I could scarcely hold it fast; the paths were
+so desperately slippery that my guide fell sprawling full length
+before me in the mud; but what cared we? We _jodelled_ and reviled
+the weather to our hearts' content, and at last we passed the
+Nunnery, which we greeted by a serenade, and soon after reached St.
+Gall.
+
+Our journey was happily over, and yesterday I drove here, and at
+night met with a wonderful organ, on which I could play "Schmücke
+dich, O liebe Seele!" to my heart's content.
+
+To-day I proceed to Memmingen, to-morrow to Augsburg; the day
+after, God willing, to Munich; and thus, I may now say, I _have
+been_ in Switzerland. Perhaps I have rather bored you by all the
+trivial occurrences I have detailed. These are gloomy times, but we
+need not be so; and when I sent you my journal, it was chiefly to
+show you that I thought of you whenever I was pleased and happy,
+and was with you in spirit. The shabby, dripping pedestrian bids
+you farewell, and a town gentleman, with visiting-cards, fine
+linen, and a black coat, will write to you next time. Farewell.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+BURGHER LETTER FROM MUNICH.
+
+     Munich, October 6th, 1831.
+
+It is a delightful feeling to wake in the morning and to know that
+you are to score a grand allegro with all sorts of instruments, and
+various oboes and trumpets, while bright weather holds out the hope
+of a cheering long walk in the afternoon.
+
+I have enjoyed these pleasures for a whole week past, so the
+favourable impression that Munich made on me during my first visit,
+is now very much enhanced. I scarcely know any place where I feel
+so comfortable and domesticated as here. It is indeed very
+delightful to be surrounded by cheerful faces, and your own to be
+so also, and to know every man you meet in the streets.
+
+I am now preparing for my concert, so my hands are pretty full; my
+acquaintances every instant interrupting me in my work, the lovely
+weather tempting me to go out, and the copyists, in turn, forcing
+me to stay at home; all this constitutes the most agreeable and
+exciting life. I was obliged to put off my concert, on account of
+the October festival, which begins next Sunday, and lasts all the
+week. Every evening there is to be a performance at the theatre,
+and a ball, so all idea of an orchestra or a concert-room is out of
+the question. On Monday evening, however, the 17th, at half-past
+six, think of me,--for then we dash off with thirty violins, and
+two sets of wind instruments.
+
+The first part begins with the symphony in C minor, the second with
+the "Midsummer Night's Dream." The first part closes with my new
+concerto in G minor, and at the end of the second I have
+unwillingly agreed to extemporize. Believe me, I do so very
+reluctantly, but the people insist upon it. Bärmann has decided on
+playing again; Breiting, Mlle. Vial, Loehle, Bayer, and Pellegrini
+are the singers who are to execute a piece together. The locality
+is the large Odeon Hall, and the performance for the benefit of the
+poor in Munich. The magistrates invite the orchestra, and the
+burgomasters the singers. Every morning I am engaged in writing,
+correcting, and scoring till one o'clock, when I go to Scheidel's
+coffee-house in the Kaufinger Gasse, where I know each face by
+heart, and find the same people every day in the same position; two
+playing chess, three looking on, five reading the newspapers, six
+eating their dinner, and I am the seventh. After dinner Bärmann
+usually comes to fetch me, and we make arrangements about the
+concert, or after a walk we have cheese and beer, and then I return
+home and set to work again.
+
+This time I have declined all invitations for the evening; but
+there are so many agreeable houses, to which I can go uninvited,
+that a light is seldom to be seen in my room on the parterre till
+after eight o'clock. You must know that I lodge on a level with the
+street, in a room which was once a shop, so that if I unbar the
+shutters of my glass door, one step brings me into the middle of
+the street, and any one passing along, can put his head in at the
+window, and say good morning. Next to me a Greek lodges, who is
+learning the piano, and he is truly odious; but to make up for
+that, my landlord's daughter, who wears a round silver cap and is
+very slender, looks all the prettier.
+
+I have music in my rooms at four o'clock in the afternoon, three
+times every week: Bärmann, Breiting, Staudacher, young Poissl, and
+others, come regularly, and we have a musical picnic. In this way I
+become acquainted with operas, which, most unpardonably, I have not
+yet either heard or seen; such as Lodoiska, Faniska, Medea; also
+the Preciosa, Abu Hassan, etc. The theatre lends us the scores.
+
+Last Wednesday we had capital fun; several wagers had been lost,
+and it was agreed that we should enjoy the fruits of them all
+together; and after various suggestions, we at last decided on
+having a musical soirée in my room, and to invite all the
+dignitaries; so a list was made out of about thirty persons;
+several also came uninvited, who were presented to us by mutual
+friends. There was a sad want of space; at first we proposed
+placing several people on my bed, but it was surprising the number
+of patient sheep who managed to cram into my small room. The whole
+affair was most lively and successful. E---- was present, as dulcet
+as ever, languishing in all the glory of poetical enthusiasm, and
+grey stockings; in short, tiresome beyond all description.
+
+First I played my old quartett in B minor; then Breiting sang
+"Adelaide;" Herr S---- played variations on the violin (doing
+himself no credit); Bärmann performed Beethoven's first quartett
+(in F major), which he had arranged for two clarionets, corno di
+bassetto, and bassoon; an air from "Euryanthe" followed, which was
+furiously encored, and as a finale I extemporized--tried hard to
+get off--but they made such a tremendous uproar that _nolens_ I
+was forced to comply, though I had nothing in my head, but
+wine-glasses, benches, cold roast meat, and ham.
+
+The Cornelius ladies were next-door with my landlord and his
+family, to listen to me; the Schauroths were making a visit on the
+first story for the same purpose, and even in the hall, and in the
+street, people were standing; in addition to all this, the heat of
+the crowded room, the deafening noise, the gay audience; and when
+at last the time for eating and drinking arrived, the uproar was at
+its height; we fraternized glass in hand, and gave toasts; the
+more formal guests with their grave faces, sat in the midst of the
+jovial throng, apparently quite contented, and we did not separate
+till half-past one in the morning.
+
+The following evening formed a striking contrast. I was summoned to
+play before the Queen, and the Court; there all was proper and
+polite, and polished, and every time you moved your elbow, you
+pushed against an Excellency; the most smooth and complimentary
+phrases circulated in the room, and I, the _roturier_, stood in the
+midst of them, with my citizen heart, and my aching head! I managed
+however to get on pretty well, and at the end, I was commanded to
+extemporize on Royal themes, which I did, and was mightily
+commended; what pleased me most was, that when I had finished my
+extempore playing, the Queen said to me, that it was strange the
+power I possessed of carrying away my audience, for that during
+such music, no one could think of anything else; on which I begged
+to apologize for carrying away Her Majesty, etc.
+
+This, you see, is the mode in which I pass my time in Munich. I
+forgot, however, to say, that every day at twelve o'clock, I give
+little Mademoiselle L---- an hour's instruction in double
+counterpoint, and four-part composition, etc., which makes me
+realize more than ever the stupidity and confusion of most masters
+and books on this subject; for nothing can be more clear than the
+whole thing when properly explained.
+
+She is one of the sweetest creatures I ever saw, Imagine a small,
+delicate-looking, pale girl, with noble but not pretty features, so
+singular and interesting, that it is difficult to turn your eyes
+from her; while all her gestures and every word are full of genius.
+She has the gift of composing songs, and singing them in a way I
+never heard before, causing me the most unalloyed musical delight I
+ever experienced. When she is seated at the piano, and begins one
+of the songs, the sounds are quite unique; the music floats
+strangely to and fro, and every note expresses the most profound
+and refined feeling. When she sings the first note in her tender
+tones, every one present subsides into a quiet and thoughtful mood,
+and each, in his own way, is deeply affected.
+
+If you could but hear her voice! so innocent, so unconsciously
+lovely, emanating from her inmost soul, and yet so tranquil! Last
+year the genius was all there; she had written no song that did not
+contain some bright flash of talent, and then M----and I sounded
+forth her praises to the musical world; still no one seemed to
+place much faith in us; but since that time, she has made the most
+remarkable progress. Those who are not affected by her present
+singing, can have no feeling at all; but unluckily it is now the
+fashion to beg the young girl to sing her songs, and then the
+lights are removed from the piano, in order that the society may
+enjoy the plaintive strains.
+
+This forms an unpleasant contrast, and repeatedly when I was to
+have played something after her, I was quite unable, and declined
+doing so. It is probable that she may one day be spoiled by all
+this praise, because she has no one to comprehend or to guide her;
+and, strangely enough, she is as yet entirely devoid of all musical
+cultivation; she knows very little, and can scarcely distinguish
+good music from bad; in fact, except her own pieces, she thinks all
+else that she hears wonderfully fine. If she were at length to
+become satisfied as it were with herself, it would be all over with
+her. I have, for my part, done what I could, and implored her
+parents and herself in the most urgent manner, to avoid society,
+and not to allow such divine genius to be wasted. Heaven grant that
+I may be successful! I may, perhaps, dear sisters, soon send you
+some of her songs that she has copied out for me, in token of her
+gratitude for my teaching her what she already knows from nature;
+and because I have really led her to good and solid music.
+
+I also play on the organ every day for an hour, but unfortunately I
+cannot practise properly, as the pedal is short of five upper
+notes, so that I cannot play any of Sebastian Bach's passages on
+it; but the stops are wonderfully beautiful, by the aid of which
+you can vary chorals; so I dwell with delight on the celestial,
+liquid tone of the instrument. Moreover, Fanny, I have here
+discovered the particular stops which ought to be used in Sebastian
+Bach's "Schmücke dich, O liebe Seele." They seem actually made for
+this melody, and sound so touching, that a tremor invariably
+seizes me, when I begin to play it. For the flowing parts I have a
+flute stop of eight feet, and also a very soft one of four feet,
+which continually floats above the Choral. You have heard this
+effect in Berlin; but there is a keyboard for the Choral with
+nothing but reed stops, so I employ a mellow oboe and a soft
+clarion (four feet) and a viola; these give the Choral in subdued
+and touching tones, like distant human voices, singing from the
+depths of the heart.
+
+Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, by the time you will have received
+this letter, I shall be on the "Theresien Wiese," with eighty
+thousand other people; so think of me there, and farewell.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Munich, October 18th, 1831.
+
+     Dear Father,
+
+Pray forgive me for not having written to you for so long. The last
+few days previous to my concert, were passed in such bustle and
+confusion, that I really had not a moment's leisure; besides I
+preferred writing to you after my concert was over, that I might
+tell you all about it, hence the long interval between this and my
+former letter.
+
+I write to you in particular to-day, because it is so long since I
+have had a single line from you; I do beg you will soon write to
+me, if only to say that you are well, and to send me your kind
+wishes. You know this always makes me glad and happy; therefore
+excuse my addressing this letter, with all the little details of my
+concert, to you. My mother, and sisters, were desirous to hear
+them, but I was anxious to say how eagerly I hope for a few lines
+from you. Pray let me have them. It is a long time since you wrote
+to me!
+
+My concert took place yesterday, and was much more brilliant and
+successful than I expected. The affair went off well, and with much
+spirit. The orchestra played admirably, and the receipts for the
+benefit of the poor will be large. A few days after my former
+letter, I attended a general rehearsal, where the whole band were
+assembled, and in addition to the official invitation the orchestra
+had received, I was obliged to invite them verbally in a polite
+speech, in the theatre. This, to me, was the most trying part of
+the whole concert; still I did not object to it, for I really
+wished to know the sensations of a man who gives a concert, and
+this ceremony forms part of it. I stationed myself therefore at the
+prompter's box, and addressed the performers very courteously, who
+took off their hats, and when my speech was finished, there was a
+general murmur of assent. On the following day there were upwards
+of seventy signatures to the circular. Immediately afterwards, I
+had the pleasure of finding that the chorus singers had sent one of
+their leaders to me, to ask if I had not composed some chorus that
+I should like to be sung, in which case, they would all be happy to
+sing it _gratis_. Although I had decided not to give more than
+three pieces of my composition, still the offer was very
+gratifying, and the hearty sympathy especially delighted me, for
+even the regimental musicians whom I had to engage for the English
+horns and trumpets, positively refused to accept a single kreuzer,
+and we had above eighty performers in the orchestra.
+
+Then came all the tiresome minor arrangements about advertisements,
+tickets, preliminary rehearsals, etc., and in addition to all this,
+it was the week of the October festival. In Munich the days and
+hours always glide past so very rapidly, that when they are gone,
+it really seems as if they had never been, and this is more
+peculiarly the case during this October festival. Every afternoon
+about three o'clock you repair to the spacious, green "Theresien
+Wiese," which is swarming with people, and it is impossible to get
+away till the evening, for every one finds acquaintances without
+end, and something to talk about, or to look at; a fat ox,
+target-shooting, a race, or pretty girls in gold and silver caps,
+etc. Any affair you are engaged in, can be concluded there, for the
+whole town is congregated on the meadow, and not till the mists
+begin to rise, does the crowd disperse, and return towards the
+"Frauen Thürme." The people are in constant motion, running about
+in all directions, while the snowy mountains in the distance look
+clear and tranquil, each day giving promise of a bright morrow, and
+fulfilling that promise; and, what after all is the chief thing,
+none but careless happy faces to be seen, with the occasional
+exception perhaps of a few Deputies, drinking coffee in the open
+air, and discussing the lamentable condition of the people,--while
+the people themselves are standing round them looking as happy as
+possible. On the first day the King distributes the prizes himself,
+taking off his hat to each winner of a prize, and giving his hand
+to the peasants, or laying hold of their arms and shaking them; now
+I think this all very proper, as here externally at least society
+appears more blended, but whether it sinks deep into the heart, we
+can discuss together at some future time. I adhere to my first
+opinion; at all events it is so far well, that the absurd
+restraints of etiquette should not be too strictly observed
+outwardly, and so it is always something gained.
+
+My first rehearsal took place early on Saturday. We had about
+thirty-two violins, six double-basses, and double sets of wind
+instruments, etc.: but, Heaven knows why, the rehearsal went badly;
+I was forced to rehearse my symphony in C minor alone for two
+hours. My concerto did not go at all satisfactorily. We had only
+time to play over the "Midsummer Night's Dream" once, and even then
+so hurriedly, that I wished to withdraw it from the bills; but
+Bärmann would not hear of this, and assured me that they would do
+it better next time. I therefore was forced to wait in considerable
+anxiety for the next rehearsal: in the meantime there was happily a
+great ball on Sunday evening, which was very enjoyable, so I
+recovered my spirits, and arrived next morning at the general
+rehearsal in high good humour, and with perfect confidence. I
+started off at once with the overture; we played it over again and
+again, till at last it went well, and we did the same with my
+concerto, so that the whole rehearsal was quite satisfactory.
+
+On my way to the concert at night, when I heard the rattling of the
+carriages, I began to feel real pleasure in the whole affair. The
+Court arrived at half-past six. I took up my little English
+_bâton_, and conducted my symphony. The orchestra played
+magnificently, and with a degree of fire and enthusiasm that I
+never heard equalled under my direction; they all crashed in at the
+_forte_, and the _scherzo_ was most light and delicate; it seemed
+to please the audience exceedingly, and the King was always the
+first to applaud. Then my fat friend, Breiting, sang the air in A
+flat major from "Euryanthe," and the public shouted "Da capo!" and
+were in good humour, and showed good taste. Breiting was delighted,
+so he sang with spirit, and quite beautifully. Then came my
+concerto; I was received with long and loud applause; the orchestra
+accompanied me well, and the composition had also its merits, and
+gave much satisfaction to the audience; they wished to recall me,
+in order to give me another round of applause, according to the
+prevailing fashion here, but I was modest, and would not appear.
+Between the parts the King got hold of me, and praised me highly,
+asking all sorts of questions, and whether I was related to the
+Bartholdy in Rome, to whose house he was in the habit of going,
+because it was the cradle of modern art, etc.[24]
+
+  [24] _Vide_ the letter from Rome of the 1st of February, 1831.
+
+The second part commenced with the "Midsummer Night's Dream," which
+went admirably, and excited a great sensation; then Bärmann played,
+and after that we had the finale in A major from Lodoiska. I
+however did not hear either of these, as I was resting and cooling
+in the anteroom. When I appeared to extemporize, I was again
+enthusiastically received. The King had given me the theme of "Non
+più andrai," on which I was to _improviser_. My former opinion is
+now fully confirmed, that it is an absurdity to extemporize in
+public. I have seldom felt so like a fool as when I took my place
+at the piano, to present to the public the fruits of my
+inspiration; but the audience were quite contented, and there was
+no end of their applause. They called me forward again, and the
+Queen said all that was courteous; but I was annoyed, for I was far
+from being satisfied with myself, and I am resolved never again to
+extemporize in public,--it is both an abuse and an absurdity.
+
+So this is an account of my concert of the 17th, which is now among
+the things of the past. There were eleven hundred people present,
+so the poor may well be satisfied: but enough of all this.
+Farewell! May every happiness attend you all!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, December 19th, 1831.
+
+     Dear Father,
+
+Receive my hearty thanks for your letter of the 7th. Though I do
+not quite apprehend your meaning on some points, and also may
+differ from you, still I have no doubt that this will come all
+right when we talk things over together, especially if you permit
+me, as you have always hitherto done, to express my opinion in a
+straight-forward manner. I allude chiefly to your suggestion, that
+I should procure a libretto for an opera from some French poet, and
+then have it translated, and compose the music for the Munich
+stage.[25]
+
+  [25] Felix Mendelssohn, during his stay in Munich, received a
+  commission from the director of the theatre, to write an opera
+  for Munich.
+
+Above all, I must tell you how sincerely I regret that you have
+only now made known to me your views on this subject. I went to
+Düsseldorf, as you know, expressly to consult with Immermann on the
+point. I found him ready, and willing; he accepted the proposal,
+promising to send me the poem by the end of May at the latest, so I
+do not myself see how it is possible for me now to draw back;
+indeed I do not wish it, as I place entire confidence in him. I do
+not in the least understand what you allude to in your last letter,
+about Immermann, and his incapacity to write an opera. Although I
+by no means agree with you in this opinion, still it would have
+been my duty to have settled nothing without your express
+sanction, and I could have arranged the affair by letter from here,
+I believed however that I was acting quite to your satisfaction
+when I made him my offer. In addition to this, some new poems that
+he read to me, convinced me more than ever that he was a true poet,
+and supposing that I had an equal choice in merit, I would always
+decide rather in favour of a German than a French libretto; and
+lastly, he has fixed on a subject which has been long in my
+thoughts, and which, if I am not mistaken, my mother wished to see
+made into an opera,--I mean Shakspeare's "Tempest". I was
+therefore particularly pleased with this, so I shall doubly regret
+if you do not approve of what I have done. In any event, however, I
+entreat that you will neither be displeased with me, nor
+distrustful with regard to the work, nor cease to take any interest
+in it.
+
+From what I know of Immermann, I feel assured I may expect a
+first-rate libretto. What I alluded to about his solitary life,
+merely referred to his inward feelings and perceptions; for in
+other respects he is well acquainted with what is passing in the
+world. He knows what people like, and what to give them; but above
+all he is a genuine artist, which is the chief thing; but I am sure
+I need not say that I will not compose music for any words I do not
+consider really good, or which do not inspire me, and for this
+purpose it is essential that I should have your approval. I intend
+to reflect deeply on the poem before I begin the music. The
+dramatic interest or (in the best sense) the theatrical portion, I
+shall of course immediately communicate to you, and in short look
+on the affair in the serious light it deserves. The first step
+however is taken, and I cannot tell you how deeply I should regret
+your not being pleased.
+
+There is however one thing which consoles me, and it is that if I
+were to rely on my own judgment, I would again act precisely as I
+have now done, though I have had an opportunity of becoming
+acquainted with a great deal of French poetry, and seeing it in the
+most favourable light. Pray pardon me for saying exactly what I
+think. To compose for the translation of a French libretto, seems
+to me for various reasons impracticable, and I have an idea that
+you are in favour of it more on account of the _success_ which it
+is likely to enjoy than for its own _intrinsic merit_. Moreover I
+well remember how much you disliked the subject of the "Muette de
+Portici," a _Muette_ too who had gone astray, and of "Wilhelm
+Tell," which the author seems almost purposely to have rendered
+tedious.
+
+The success however these enjoy all over Germany does not assuredly
+depend on the work itself being either good or dramatic, for "Tell"
+is neither, but on their coming from Paris, and having pleased
+there. Certainly there is _one_ sure road to fame in Germany,--that
+by Paris and London; still it is not the only one; this is proved
+not only by all Weber's works, but also by those of Spohr, whose
+"Faust" is here considered classical music, and which is to be
+given at the great Opera-house in London next season. Besides, I
+could not possibly take that course, as my great opera has been
+bespoken for Munich, and I have accepted the commission. I am
+resolved therefore to make the attempt in Germany, and to remain
+and work there so long as I can continue to do so, and yet maintain
+myself, for this I consider my first duty. If I find that I cannot
+do this, then I must leave it for London or Paris, where it is
+easier to get on. I see indeed where I should be better remunerated
+and more honoured, and live more gaily, and at my ease, than in
+Germany, where a man must press forward, and toil, and take no
+rest,--still, if I can succeed there, I prefer the latter.
+
+None of the new libretti here, would in my opinion be attended with
+any success whatever, if brought out for the first time on a German
+stage. One of the distinctive characteristics of them all, is
+precisely of a nature that I should resolutely oppose, although the
+taste of the present day may demand it, and I quite admit that it
+may in general be more prudent to go with the current than to
+struggle against it. I allude to that of immorality. In "Robert le
+Diable" the nuns come one after the other to allure the hero of the
+piece, till at last the abbess succeeds in doing so: the same hero
+is conveyed by magic into the apartment of her whom he loves, and
+casts her from him in an attitude which the public here applauds,
+and probably all Germany will do the same; she then implores his
+mercy in a grand aria. In another opera a young girl divests
+herself of her garments, and sings a song to the effect that next
+day at this time she will be married; all this produces effect, but
+I have no music for such things. I consider it ignoble, so if the
+present epoch exacts this style, and considers it indispensable,
+then I will write oratorios.
+
+Another strong reason why it would prove impracticable is that no
+French poet would undertake to furnish me with a poem. Indeed, it
+is no easy matter to procure one from them for this stage, for all
+the best authors are overwhelmed with commissions. At the same time
+I think it quite possible that I might succeed in getting one;
+still it never would occur to any of them to write a libretto for a
+_German_ theatre. In the first place it would be much more feasible
+to give the opera here, and infinitely more rational too; in the
+second place, they would decline writing for any other stage than
+the French; in fact they could not realize any other. Above all it
+would be impossible to procure for them a sum equivalent to what
+they receive here from the theatres, and what they draw as their
+share from the _part d'auteur_.
+
+I know you will forgive me for having told you my opinion without
+reserve. You always allowed me to do so in conversation, so I hope
+you will not put a wrong construction on what I have written, and I
+beg you will amend my views by communicating your own.--Your
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, December 20th, 1831.
+
+     Dear Rebecca,
+
+I went yesterday to the Chambre des Députés, and I must now tell
+you about it; but what do you care about the Chambre des Députés?
+It is a political song, and you would rather hear whether I have
+composed any love songs, or bridal songs, or wedding songs; but it
+is a sad pity, that no songs but political ones are composed here.
+I believe I never in my life passed three such unmusical weeks as
+these. I feel as if I never could again think of composing; this
+all arises from the "juste milieu;" but it is still worse to be
+with musicians, for they do not _wrangle_ about politics, but
+_lament_ over them. One has lost his place, another his title, a
+third his money, and they say this all proceeds from the "Milieu."
+
+Yesterday I saw the "Milieu," in a light grey coat, and with a
+noble air, in the first place on the Ministerial bench. He was
+sharply attacked by M. Mauguin, who has a very long nose. Of course
+you don't care for all this; but what of that? I must have a chat
+with you. In Italy I was lazy, in Switzerland a wild student, in
+Munich a consumer of cheese and beer, and so in Paris I must talk
+politics. I intended to have composed various symphonies, and to
+have written some songs for certain ladies in Frankfort,
+Düsseldorf, and Berlin; but as yet not a chance of it. Paris
+obtrudes herself, and as above all things I must now see Paris, so
+I am busily engaged in seeing it, and am dumb.
+
+Moreover I am freezing with cold--another drawback. I cannot
+contrive to make my room warm, and I am not to get another and
+warmer apartment, till New Year's Day. In a dark little hole on the
+ground floor, overlooking a small damp garden, where my feet are
+like ice, how can I possibly write music? It is bitterly cold, and
+an Italian like myself is peculiarly susceptible. At this moment a
+man outside my window is singing a political song to a guitar.
+
+I live a reckless life--out morning, noon, and night: to-day at
+Baillot's; to-morrow I go to some friends of the Bigots; the next
+day, Valentin; Monday, Fould; Tuesday, Hiller; Wednesday, Gérard;
+and the previous week it was just the same. In the forenoon I rush
+off to the Louvre, and gaze at the Raphaels, and my favourite
+Titian; a person might well wish for a dozen more eyes to look at
+such a picture.
+
+Yesterday I was in the Chamber of Peers, who were engaged in
+pronouncing judgment on their own hereditary rights, and I saw M.
+Pasquier's wig. The day before I paid two musical visits, to the
+grumbling Cherubini, and the kind Herz. There is a large sign-board
+before the house: "Manufacture de Pianos, par Henri Herz, Marchand
+de Modes et de Nouveautés." I thought this formed one, not
+observing that it was a notice of two different firms, so I went in
+below, and found myself surrounded by gauze, and lace, and
+trimmings: so, rather abashed, I asked where the pianos were. A
+number of Herz's fair scholars with industrious faces, were
+waiting upstairs. I sat down by the fire and read your interesting
+account of our dear father's birthday, and so forth. Herz presently
+arrived, and gave audience to his pupils. We were very loving,
+recalled old times, and besprinkled each other mutually with great
+praise. On his pianos is inscribed: "Médaille d'or. Exposition de
+1827." This was very imposing.
+
+From thence I went to Erard's, where I tried over his instruments,
+and remarked written on them in large letters: "Médaille d'or.
+Exposition de 1827." My respect seemed to diminish. When I went
+home I opened my own instrument by Pleyel, and to be sure there
+also I saw in large letters: "Médaille d'or. Exposition de
+1827." The matter is like the title of "Hofrath," but it is
+characteristic. It is alleged that the chambers are about to
+discuss the following proposition: "Tous les Français du sexe
+masculin ont dès leur naissance le droit de porter l'ordre de la
+Légion d'Honneur," and the permission to appear without the order,
+can only be obtained by special services. You really scarcely see a
+man in the street without a bit of coloured ribbon, so it is no
+longer a distinction.
+
+_Apropos_, shall I be lithographed full length? Answer what you
+will, I don't intend to do it. One afternoon in Berlin, when I was
+standing _unter den Linden_ before Schenk's shop looking at H----'s
+and W----'s lithographs, I made a solemn vow to myself, unheard by
+man, that I would never allow myself to be hung up till I became a
+great man. The temptation in Munich was strong; there they wished
+to drape me with a Carbonaro cloak, a stormy sky in the background,
+and my fac-simile underneath, but I happily got off by adhering to
+my principles. Here again I am rather tempted, for the likenesses
+are very striking, but I keep my vow; and if, after all, I never do
+become a great man, though posterity will be deprived of a
+portrait, it will have an absurdity the less.
+
+It is now the 24th, and we had a very pleasant evening at Baillot's
+yesterday. He plays beautifully, and had collected a very musical
+society of attentive ladies and enthusiastic gentlemen, and I have
+seldom been so well amused in any circle, or enjoyed such honours.
+It was the greatest possible delight to me to hear my quartett in E
+flat major (dedicated to B. P.) performed in Paris by Baillot's
+quartett, and they executed it with fire and spirit. They commenced
+with a quintett by Bocherini, an old-fashioned _perruque_, but a
+very amiable old gentleman underneath it. The company then asked
+for a sonata of Bach's; we selected the one in A major; old
+familiar tones dawned once more on me, of the time when Baillot
+played it with Madame Bigot.[26] We urged each other on, the affair
+became animated, and so thoroughly amused both us and our audience,
+that we immediately commenced the one in E major, and next time we
+mean to introduce the four others.
+
+  [26] The lady who instructed Mendelssohn in the piano in Paris,
+  when the family resided there for a time in 1816.
+
+Then my turn came to play a solo. I was in the vein to extemporize
+successfully, and felt that I did so. The guests being now in a
+graver mood, I took three themes from the previous sonatas, and
+worked them up to my heart's content; it seemed to give immense
+pleasure to those present, for they shouted and applauded like mad.
+Then Baillot gave my quartett; his manner towards me has something
+very kind, and I was doubly pleased, as he is rather cold at first
+and seldom makes advances to any one. He appears a good deal
+depressed by the loss of his situation. I saw a number of old
+well-known faces, and they asked after you all, and recalled many
+anecdotes of that former period.
+
+When I was passing through Louvain two years ago with my
+"Liederspiel" in my head, and my injured knee,[27] I seized the
+brass handle of a pump to prevent myself from falling; and when I
+returned this year in the same miserable diligence, driven by a
+postilion exactly similar, with a big queue, the "Liederspiel," my
+knee, and Italy, were all things of the past; and yet the handle of
+the pump was still hanging there, as clean and brightly rubbed up
+as ever, having survived 1830, and all the revolutionary storms,
+and remaining quite unchanged. This is sentimental; my father must
+not read it, for it is the old story of the past and the present,
+which we discussed so eagerly one fine evening, and which recurs to
+me among the crowd here at every step. I thought of it at the
+Madeleine, and when I went to aunt J----'s, and at the Hôtel des
+Princes, and at the gallery, which my father showed me fifteen
+years ago, and when I saw the coloured signs, which at that time
+impressed me exceedingly, and are now grown brown and shabby.
+
+  [27] Mendelssohn had been thrown out of a cabriolet in London in
+  1829, and his knee seriously injured.
+
+Moreover this is Christmas Eve; but I feel little interest in it,
+or in New Year's Night either. Please God, another year may wear a
+very different aspect, and I will not then go to the theatre on
+Christmas Eve, as I am about to do to-night, to hear Lablache and
+Rossini for the first time. How little I care about it! I should
+much prefer _Polichinelles_ and apples to-day, and I think it very
+doubtful whether the orchestra will play as pretty a symphony as my
+"Kinder-Sinfonie."[28] I must be satisfied with it however. I am
+now modulating into the minor key, a fault with which the "École
+Allemande" are often reproached, and as I profess not to belong to
+the latter, the French say I am _cosmopolite_. Heaven defend me
+from being anything of the kind!
+
+  [28] A "Kinder-Sinfonie," composed by Mendelssohn in the year
+  1829, for a Christmas family fête.
+
+And now good-bye; a thousand compliments from Bertin de Vaux, Girod
+de l'Ain, Dupont de l'Eure, Tracy, Sacy, Passy and other kind
+friends. I had intended to have told you in this letter how
+Salverte attacked the Ministers, and how during this time a little
+_émeute_ took place on the Pont Neuf; how I sat in the Chambers
+along with Franck, in the midst of St. Simoniens; how witty Dupin
+was; but no more at present. May you all be well and happy this
+evening, and thinking of me!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, December 28th, 1831.
+
+     Dear Madam Fanny,
+
+For three months past I have been thinking of writing you a musical
+letter, but my procrastination has its revenge, for though I have
+been a fortnight here, I don't know whether I shall still be able
+to do so. I have appeared in every possible mood here; in that of
+an inquiring, admiring traveller; a coxcomb; a Frenchman, and
+yesterday actually as a Peer of France; but not yet as a musician.
+Indeed there is little likelihood of the latter, for the aspect of
+music here is miserable enough.
+
+The concerts in the Conservatoire, which were my great object,
+probably will not take place at all, because the Commission of the
+Ministry wished to give a Commission to the Commission of the
+society, to deprive a Commission of Professors of their share of
+the profits; on which the Commission of the Conservatoire replied
+to the Commission of the Ministry, that they might go and be hanged
+(suspended), and then they would not consent to it. The newspapers
+make some very severe comments on this, but you need not read them,
+as these papers are prohibited in Berlin; but you don't lose much
+by this. The Opéra Comique is bankrupt, and so it has had
+_relâche_ since I came; at the Grand Opéra, they only give little
+operas, which amuse me, though they neither provoke nor excite me.
+"Armida" was the last great opera, but they gave it in three acts,
+and this was two years ago. Choron's "Institut" is closed, the
+"Chapelle Royale" is gone out like a light; not a single Mass is to
+be heard on Sundays in all Paris, unless accompanied by serpents.
+Malibran is to appear here next week for the last time. So much the
+better, say you: retire within yourself, and write music for "Ach
+Gott vom Himmel," or a symphony, or the new violin quartett which
+you mentioned in your letter to me of the 28th, or any other
+serious composition; but this is even more impossible, for what is
+going on here is most deeply interesting, and entices you out,
+suggesting matter for thought and memory and absorbing every moment
+of time. Accordingly I was yesterday in the Chambre des Pairs, and
+counted along with them the votes, destined to abolish a very
+ancient privilege; immediately afterwards I hurried off to the
+Théâtre Français, where Mars was to appear for the first time for a
+year past; (she is fascinating beyond conception; a voice that we
+shall never hear equalled, causing you to weep, and yet to feel
+pleasure in doing so). To-day I must see Taglioni again, who along
+with Mars constitutes two Graces (if I find a third in my travels,
+I mean to marry her), and afterwards I mean to go to Gérard's
+classical _salon_. I lately went to hear Lablache and Rubini, after
+hearing Odillon Barrot quarrel with the Ministry. Having seen the
+pictures in the Louvre in the morning, I went to Baillot's; so what
+chance is there of living in retirement? The outer world is too
+tempting.
+
+There are moments, however, when my thoughts turn inwards--such as
+on that memorable evening, when Lablache sang so beautifully, or on
+Christmas-day, when there were no bells and no festivities, or when
+Paul's letter came from London, inviting me to visit him next
+spring; the said spring to be passed in England. Then I feel that
+all that now interests me is merely superficial: that I am neither
+a politician, nor a dancer, nor an actor, nor a _bel esprit_, but a
+_musician_--so I take courage, and am now writing a professional
+letter to my dear sister.
+
+My conscience smote me, especially when I read about your new music
+that you so carefully conducted on my father's birthday, and I
+reproached myself for not having said a single word to you about
+your previous composition; but I cannot let you off that, my
+colleague! What the deuce made you think of setting your G horns so
+high? Did you ever hear a G horn take the high G without a squeak?
+I only put this to yourself! and at the end of this introduction,
+when wind instruments come in, does not the following note
+
+  [Music]
+
+stare you in the face, and do not these deep oboes growl away all
+pastoral feeling, and all bloom? Do you not know that you ought to
+take out a license to sanction your writing the low B for oboes,
+and that it is only permitted on particular occasions, such as
+witches, or some great grief? Has not the composer evidently, in
+the A major air, overloaded the voice by too many other parts, so
+that the delicate intention, and the lovely melody of this
+otherwise charming piece, with all its beauties, is quite obscured
+and eclipsed?
+
+To speak seriously, however, this aria is very beautiful, and
+particularly fascinating. But I have a remark to make about your
+two choruses, which indeed applies rather to the text than to you.
+These two choruses are not sufficiently original. This sounds
+absurd; but my opinion is that it is the fault of the words, that
+express nothing original; one single expression might have improved
+the whole, but as they now stand, they would be equally suitable
+for church music, a cantata, an offertorium, etc. Where, however,
+they are not of such universal application, as for example, the
+lament at the end, they seem to be sentimental and not natural. The
+words of the last chorus are too material ("mit dem kraftlosen
+Mund, und der sich regenden Zunge"). At the beginning of the aria
+alone, are the words vigorous and spirited, and from them emanated
+the whole of your lovely piece of music. The choruses are of course
+fine, for they are written by you; but in the first place, it seems
+to me that they might be by any other good master, and secondly, as
+if they were not _necessarily_ what they are, indeed as if they
+might have been _differently_ composed. This arises from the
+poetry not imposing any particular music. I know that the latter is
+often the case with my own compositions; but though I am fully
+aware of the beam in my own eyes, I would fain extract the mote
+from yours, to relieve you at once from its pressure.
+
+My _résumé_ therefore is, that I would advise you to be more
+cautious in the choice of your words, because, after all, it is not
+everything in the Bible, even if it suits the theme, that is
+suggestive of _music_; but you have probably obviated these
+objections of mine in your new cantata, before being aware of them,
+in which case, I might as well have said nothing. So much the
+better if it be so, and then you can prosecute me for defamation!
+So far as your music and composition are concerned, they quite suit
+my taste; the young lady's cloven foot nowhere peeps forth, and if
+I knew any _Kapellmeister_ capable of writing such music, I would
+give him a place at my court. Fortunately I know no such person,
+and there is no occasion to place you at my right hand at court, as
+you are there already.[29]
+
+  [29] A play upon Fanny Hensel's house, in a court--No. 3,
+  Leipziger Strasse.
+
+When do you mean to send me something new to cheer me? Pray do so
+soon! As far as regards myself, shortly after my arrival here, I
+had one of those attacks of musical spleen, when all music, and
+more especially one's own, becomes actually hateful. I felt
+thoroughly unmusical, and did nothing but eat and sleep, and that
+revived me. F----, to whom I complained of my state, instantly
+constructed a musical theory on the subject, proving that it could
+not be otherwise; I however think exactly the reverse; but though
+we are so entirely dissimilar, and have as many differences as a
+Bushman and Caffre, still we like each other exceedingly.
+
+With L----, too, I get on famously. He is very pleasing, and the
+most _dilettante_ of all the _dilettanti_ I ever met. He knows
+everything by heart, and plays wrong basses to them all; he is only
+deficient in arrogance, for with all his undeniable talent, he is
+very modest and retiring. I am much with him, because he is a
+benevolent, kind-hearted man; we should thoroughly agree on all
+points, if he would not consider me a _doctrinaire_, and persist in
+talking politics (a subject that I wish to avoid for at least a
+hundred and twenty reasons; and chiefly because I don't in the
+least understand it); besides, he delights in hitting at Germany,
+and in depreciating London in favour of Paris. Both these things
+are prejudicial to my _constitution_, and whoever assails that, I
+must defend it and dispute with him.
+
+I was yesterday studying your new music, and enjoying it, when
+Kalkbrenner came in, and played various new compositions. The man
+is become quite romantic, purloins themes, ideas, and similar
+trifles, from Hiller, writes pieces in F sharp minor, practises
+every day for several hours, and is as he always was, a knowing
+fellow. Every time I see him, he inquires after "my charming
+sister, whom he likes so much, and who has such a fine talent for
+playing and composing." My invariable reply is, that she has not
+given up music, that she is very industrious, and that I love her
+very much; which is all true. And now farewell, dear sister. May
+you be well and happy, and may we meet at the New Year.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+TO CARL IMMERMANN IN DÜSSELDORF.
+
+     Paris, January 11th, 1832.
+
+You permitted me to give you occasional tidings of myself, and
+since I came here, I have daily intended to do so; the excitement
+here is however so great, that till to-day I have never been able
+to write. When I contrast this constant whirl and commotion, and
+the thousand distractions among a foreign people, with your house
+in the garden, and your warm winter room, your wish to exchange
+with me and to come here in my place, often recurs to me, and I
+almost wish I had taken you at your word. You must indeed in that
+case have remained all the same in your winter room, so that I
+might come out to you through the snow, take my usual place in the
+corner, and listen to the "Schwanritter;" for there is more life in
+it than in all the tumult here.
+
+In a word, I rejoice at the prospect of my return to Germany;
+everything there is indeed on a small scale, and homely, if you
+will, but _men_ live there; men who know what art really is, who
+do not admire, nor praise, in fact who do not _criticize_, but
+_create_. You do not admit this, but it is only because you are
+yourself among the number.
+
+I beg you will not however think that I am like one of those German
+youths with long hair, lounging about listlessly, and pronouncing
+the French superficial, and Paris frivolous. I only say all this
+because I now thoroughly enjoy and admire Paris, and am becoming
+better acquainted with it, and especially as I am writing to you in
+Düsseldorf. I have, on the contrary, cast myself headlong into the
+vortex, and do nothing the whole day but see new objects, the
+Chambers of Peers and Deputies, pictures and theatres, dio- neo-
+cosmo- and panoramas, constant parties, etc. Moreover, the
+musicians here are as numerous as the sands on the sea-shore, all
+hating each other; so each must be individually visited, and wary
+diplomacy is advisable, for they are all gossips, and what one says
+to another, the whole corps know next morning.
+
+The days have thus flown past hitherto as if only half as long as
+they were in reality, and as yet I have not been able to compose a
+single bar; in a few days, however, this exotic life will cease. My
+head is now dizzy from all I have seen and wondered at; but I then
+intend to collect my thoughts, and set to work, when I shall feel
+once more happy and domesticated.
+
+My chief pleasure is going to the little theatres in the evening,
+because there French life and the French people are truly mirrored;
+the "Gymnase Dramatique" is my particular favourite, where nothing
+is given but small _vaudevilles_. The extreme bitterness and deep
+animosity which pervade all these little comedies, are most
+remarkable, and although partially cloaked by the prettiest
+phrases, and the most lively acting, become only the more
+conspicuous. Politics everywhere play the chief part, which might
+have sufficed to make me dislike these theatres, for we have enough
+of them _elsewhere_; but the politics of the "Gymnase" are of a
+light and ironical description,--referring to the occurrences of
+the day, and to the newspapers, in order to excite laughter and
+applause, and at last you can't help laughing and applauding with
+the rest. Politics and sensuality are the two grand points of
+interest, round which everything circles; and in the many pieces I
+have seen, an attack on the Ministry, and a scene of seduction,
+were never absent.
+
+The whole style of the _vaudeville_, introducing certain
+conventional music at the end of the scene in every piece, when the
+actors partly sing and partly declaim some couplets with a witty
+point, is thoroughly French; we could never learn this, nor in fact
+wish to do so, for this mode of connecting the wit of the day with
+an established _refrain_, does not exist in our conversation, nor
+in our ideas. I cannot imagine anything more striking and
+effective, nor yet more prosaic.
+
+A great sensation has been recently caused here, by a new piece at
+the Gymnase, "Le Luthier de Lisbonne," which forms the delight of
+the public. A stranger is announced in the play-bills; scarcely
+does he appear when all the audience begin to laugh and to applaud,
+and you learn that the actor is a close imitation of Don Miguel, in
+gestures, manner, and costume; he proceeds to announce that he is a
+king, and the fortune of the piece is made. The more stupid,
+uncivilized, and uncouth, the Unknown appears, the greater is the
+enjoyment of the public, who allow none of his gestures or speeches
+to pass unobserved. He takes refuge from a riot in the house of
+this instrument maker, who is the most devoted of all royalists,
+but unluckily the husband of a very pretty woman. One of Don
+Miguel's favourites has forced her to grant him a rendezvous for
+the ensuing night, and he begs the king--who arrives at this
+moment--to give him his aid, by causing the husband to be beheaded.
+Don Miguel replies, "Très volontiers," and while the Luthier
+recognizes him, and falls at his feet, beside himself from joy, Don
+Miguel signs his death-warrant, but also that of his favourite,
+whom he means to replace with the pretty woman. At each enormity
+that he commits, we laugh and applaud, and are immensely delighted
+with this stupid stage Don Miguel. So ends the first act. In the
+second, it is supposed to be midnight; the pretty wife alone and
+agitated. Don Miguel jumps in at the window, and does all in his
+power to gain her favour, making her dance and sing to him, but she
+cannot endure him, and falls at his feet, imploring him to spare
+her; on which he seizes her, and drags her repeatedly round the
+stage, and if she did not make a snatch at a knife, and then a
+sudden knocking ensue, she might have been in a bad plight; at the
+close, the worthy Luthier rescues the king from the hands of the
+French soldiery, who are just arrived, and of whose valour, and
+love of liberty, he has a great horror. So the piece ends happily.
+
+A little comedy followed, where the wife betrays her husband, and
+has a lover; and another, where the man is faithless to his wife,
+and is maintained by his mistress; this is succeeded by a satire on
+the new constructions in the Tuileries, and on the Ministry, and so
+it goes on.
+
+I cannot say how it may be at the French Opera, for it is bankrupt,
+so there has been no acting there since I came. In the Académie
+Royale, however, Meyerbeer's "Robert le Diable" is played every
+night with great success; the house is always crowded, and the
+music has given general satisfaction. There is an expenditure of
+all possible means of producing stage effect, that I never saw
+equalled on any stage. All who can sing, dance, or act in Paris,
+sing, dance, and act on this occasion.
+
+The _sujet_ is romantic; that is, the devil appears in the
+piece--(this is quite sufficient romance and imagination for the
+Parisians). It is however very bad; and were it not for two
+brilliant scenes of seduction it would produce no effect whatever.
+The devil is a poor devil, and appears in armour, for the purpose
+of leading astray his son Robert, a Norman knight, who loves a
+Sicilian princess. He succeeds in inducing him to stake his money
+and all his personal property (that is, his sword) at dice, and
+then makes him commit sacrilege, giving him a magic branch, which
+enables him to penetrate into the Princess's apartment, and renders
+him irresistible. The son does all this with apparent willingness;
+but when at the end he is to assign himself to his father, who
+declares that he loves him, and cannot live without him, the devil,
+or rather the poet Scribe, introduces a peasant girl, who has in
+her possession the will of Robert's deceased mother, and reads him
+the document, which makes him doubt the story he has been told; so
+the devil is obliged to sink down through a trap-door at midnight,
+with his purpose unfulfilled, on which Robert marries the Princess,
+and the peasant girl, it seems, is intended to represent the
+principle of good. The devil is called Bertram.
+
+I cannot imagine how any music could be composed on such a cold,
+formal _extravaganza_ as this, and so the opera does not satisfy
+me. It is throughout frigid and heartless; and where this is the
+case it produces no effect on me. The people extol the music, but
+where warmth and truth are wanting, I have no test to apply.
+
+Michael Beer set off to-day for Havre. It seems he intends to
+compose poetry there; and I now remember that when I met you one
+day at Schadow's, and maintained that he was no poet, your
+rejoinder was, "That is a matter of taste." I seldom see Heine,
+because he is entirely absorbed in liberal ideas and in politics.
+He has recently published sixty "Frühlings Lieder." Very few of
+them seem to me either genuine or truthful, but these few are
+indeed inimitable. Have you read them? They appeared in the second
+volume of the "Reisebilder." Börne intends to publish some new
+volumes of letters: he and I are full of enthusiasm for Malibran
+and Taglioni; all these gentlemen are abusing and reviling Germany
+and all that is German, and yet they cannot speak even tolerable
+French; I think this rather provoking.
+
+Pray excuse my having sent you so much gossip, and for writing to
+you on such a disreputable margin of paper; but it is long since we
+met; and as for a time I could see you every day, it has become
+quite a necessity to write to you; so you must not take it amiss.
+You once promised to send me a few lines in reply: I don't know
+whether I may venture to remind you of this, but I should really be
+glad to hear how you pass your time, and what novelty a certain
+cupboard in the corner contains; how you get on with "Merlin," and
+my "Schwanritter," the sound of which still vibrates in my ears
+like sweet music; and also whether you sometimes think of me, and
+of next May, and "The Tempest." It is certainly expecting a good
+deal to ask you for an early reply to my letter, but I fear that
+you had enough of the first, and would rather not receive a second;
+therefore I take courage, and beg for an answer to this one. But I
+need not have asked this, for you usually guess my wishes before I
+can utter them; and if you are as kindly disposed towards me now
+as you were then, you will fulfil this desire of mine as you did
+all the others.--Yours,
+
+        FELIX MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY.
+
+
+     Paris, January 14th, 1832.
+
+I now first begin to feel at home here, and really to know Paris;
+it is indeed the most singular and amusing place imaginable; but
+for one who is no politician, it does not possess so much interest.
+So I have become a _doctrinaire_. I read my newspaper every
+morning, form my own opinion about peace and war, and, only among
+friends, confess that I know nothing of the matter.
+
+This is however not the case with F----, who is completely absorbed
+in the vortex of dilettantism and dogmatism, and really believes
+himself quite adapted to be a Minister. It is a sad pity, for
+nothing good will ever come of it. He has sufficient sense to be
+always occupied, but not enough to conduct any affair. He is a
+_dilettante_ on all points, and has a clever knack of criticizing
+others, but he produces nothing. We continue on the same intimate
+terms, meeting every day, and liking each other's society, but
+inwardly we remain strangers. I suspect that he writes for the
+public papers; he is very much with Heine, and chatters abuse
+against Germany like a magpie; all this I much dislike, and as I
+really have a sincere regard for him, it worries me. I suppose I
+must try to become accustomed to it, but it is really too sad to
+know where a person is deficient, and yet to be unable to remedy
+their defects. Moreover he grows visibly older; so this irregular,
+unoccupied life is the less suitable for him.
+
+A---- has left his parents' house, and gone to the Rue
+Monsigny,[30] where body and soul are equally engrossed. I have in
+my possession an appeal to mankind from P---- in which he makes his
+confession of faith, and invites every one to surrender a share of
+his property, however small, to the St. Simoniens; calling on all
+artists to devote their genius in future to this religion; to
+compose better music than Rossini or Beethoven; to build temples of
+peace, and to paint like Raphael or David. I have twenty copies of
+this pamphlet, which P---- desired me, dear Father, to send to you.
+I rest satisfied by sending you _one_, which you will find quite
+enough, and even that one, by some private hand of course.
+
+  [30] At that time the residence of the St. Simoniens.
+
+It is a bad sign of the state of the public mind here, that such a
+monstrous doctrine, in such detestable prose, should ever have
+existed, or impressed others; for it appears that the students of
+the Polytechnic School take considerable interest in it. It is
+difficult to say how far it may be carried, when there is
+temptation offered on every side, promising honour to one, fame to
+another; to me, an admiring public, and to the poor, money; while
+by their cold estimate of talent, they check all effort, and all
+progress. And then their ideas as to universal brotherhood, their
+disbelief in hell, and the devil, and eternal perdition, and of the
+annihilation of all egotism,--ideas, which in our country spring
+from nature, and prevail in every part of Christendom, and without
+which I should not wish to live, but which they however regard as a
+new invention and discovery, constantly repeating that they mean to
+transform the world, and to render mankind happy. A---- coolly
+tells me that he does not require to improve himself, but others
+only; because he is not at all imperfect, but on the contrary,
+perfect. They not only praise and compliment each other, but all
+those whom they wish to gain over; extolling any talent or
+capability you may possess, and lamenting that such great powers
+should be lost, by adhering to the old-fashioned notions of duty,
+vocation, and action, as they were formerly interpreted. When I
+listen to all this, it does seem to me a melancholy mystification.
+I attended a meeting last Sunday, where all the Fathers sat in a
+circle: then came the principal Father and demanded their reports,
+praising and blaming them, addressing the assembly, and issuing his
+commands; to me it was quite awful! A---- has completely renounced
+his parents, and lives with the Fathers, his disciples, and is
+endeavouring to procure a loan for their benefit; but enough of
+this subject!
+
+A Pole gives a concert next week, where I am to play in a
+composition for six performers, along with Kalkbrenner, Hiller,
+and Co.; do not be surprised therefore if you see my name
+mutilated, as in the "Messager" lately, when the death of Professor
+Flegel (Hegel) was announced from Berlin, and all the papers copied
+it.
+
+I have set to work again, and live most agreeably. I have not yet
+been able to write to you about the theatres, although they occupy
+me very much. How plain are the symptoms of bitterness and
+excitement even in the most insignificant farce; how invariably
+everything bears a reference to politics; how completely what is
+called the Romantic School has infected all the Parisians, for they
+think of nothing on the stage now but the plague, the gallows, the
+devil, etc., one striving to outstrip the other in horrors, and in
+liberalism; in the midst of these _misères_ and fooleries, how
+charming is a talent like that of Léontine Fay, who is the
+perfection of grace and fascination, and remains unsullied by the
+absurdities she is compelled to utter and to act. How strange all
+these contrasts are! but this I reserve for future discussion.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, January 21st, 1832.
+
+In every letter of yours I receive a little hit, because my answers
+are not very punctual, and so I reply without delay to your
+questions, dear Fanny, with regard to the new works that I am about
+to publish.
+
+It occurred to me that the octett and the quintett might make a
+very good appearance among my works, being in fact better than many
+compositions that already figure there. As the publication of these
+pieces costs me nothing, but, on the contrary, I derive profit from
+them, and not wishing to confuse their chronological order, my idea
+is to publish the following pieces at Easter:--quintett and octett
+(the latter also arranged as a duet), "Midsummer Night's Dream,"
+seven songs without words, six songs with words; on my return to
+Germany, six pieces of sacred music, and finally, if I can get any
+one to print it, and to pay for it, the symphony in D minor. As
+soon as I have performed "Meeresstille" at my concert in Berlin, it
+will also appear. I cannot however bring out "The Hebrides" here,
+because, as I wrote to you at the time, I do not consider it
+finished; the middle movement forte in D major is very stupid, and
+the whole modulations savour more of counterpoint, than of train
+oil and seagulls and salt fish--and it ought to be exactly the
+reverse. I like the piece too well to allow it to be performed in
+an imperfect state, and I hope soon to be able to work at it, and
+to have it ready for England, and the Michaelmas fair at Leipzig.
+
+You inquire also why I do not compose the Italian symphony in A
+major. Because I am composing the Saxon overture in A minor, which
+is to precede the "Walpurgis Night," that the work may be played
+with all due honour at the said Berlin concert, and elsewhere.
+
+You wish me to remove to the Marais, and to write the whole day. My
+dear child, that would never do; I have, at the most, only the
+prospect of three months to see Paris, so I must throw myself into
+the stream; indeed, this is why I came; everything here is too
+bright, and too attractive to be neglected; it rounds off my
+pleasant travelling reminiscences, and forms a fine colossal
+key-stone, and so I consider that to see Paris is at this moment my
+chief vocation. The publishers too are standing on each side of me
+like veritable Satans, demanding music for the piano, and offering
+to pay for it. By Heavens! I don't know whether I shall be able to
+withstand this, or write some kind of trio; for I hope you believe
+me to be superior to the temptation of a _pot-pourri_; but I should
+like to compose a couple of good trios.
+
+On Thursday the first rehearsal of my overture takes place, which
+is to be performed in the second concert at the "Conservatoire." In
+the third my symphony in D minor is to follow. Habeneck talks of
+seven or eight rehearsals, which will be very welcome to me.
+Moreover I am also to play something at Erard's concert; so I shall
+play my Munich concerto, but I must first practise it well. Then, a
+note is lying beside me, "Le Président du Conseil, Ministre de
+l'Intérieur, et Madame Casimir Périer prient," etc., on Monday
+evening to a ball; this evening there is to be music at Habeneck's;
+to-morrow at Schlesinger's; Tuesday, the first public _soirée_ at
+Baillot's; on Wednesday, Hiller plays his Concerto in the Hôtel de
+Ville, and this always lasts till past midnight. Let those who like
+it, lead a solitary life! these are all things that cannot be
+refused. So when am I to compose? In the forenoon? Yesterday, first
+Hiller came, then Kalkbrenner, then Habeneck. The day before that,
+came Baillot, Eichthal, and Rodrigues. Perhaps very early in the
+morning? Well, I do compose then--so you are confuted!
+
+P---- was with me yesterday, talking St. Simonienism, and either
+from a conviction of my stupidity, or my shrewdness, he made me
+disclosures which shocked me so much, that I resolved never again
+to go either to him or to his confederates. Early this morning
+Hiller rushed in, and told me he had just witnessed the arrest of
+the St. Simoniens. He wished to hear their orations; but the
+Fathers did not come. All of a sudden soldiers made their way in,
+and requested those present to disperse as quickly as possible,
+inasmuch as M. Enfantin and the others had been arrested in the Rue
+Monsigny. A party of National Guards are placed in the street, and
+other soldiers marched up there; everything is sealed up, and now
+the _procès_ will begin. My B minor quartett, which is lying in the
+Rue Monsigny, is also sealed up. The adagio alone is in the style
+of the "juste Milieu," all the other parts _mouvement_. I suppose I
+shall eventually be obliged to play it before a jury.
+
+I was lately standing beside the Abbé Bardin at a large party,
+listening to the performance of my quartett in A minor. At the last
+movement my neighbour pulled my coat, and said: "Il a cela dans
+une de ses sinfonies." "Qui?" said I, rather embarrassed.
+"Beethoven, l'auteur de ce quatuor," said he, with a consequential
+air. This was a very doubtful compliment! but is it not famous that
+my quartett should be played in the classes of the Conservatoire,
+and that the pupils there are practising off their fingers to play
+"Ist es wahr?"
+
+I have just come from St. Sulpice, where the organist showed off
+his organ to me; it sounded like a full chorus of old women's
+voices; but they maintain that it is the finest organ in Europe if
+it were only put into proper order, which would cost thirty
+thousand francs. The effect of the _canto fermo_, accompanied by a
+serpent, those who have not heard it could scarcely conceive, and
+clumsy bells are ringing all the time.
+
+The post is going, so I must conclude my gossip, or I might go on
+in this manner till the day after to-morrow. I have not yet told
+you that Bach's "Passion" is announced for performance in London,
+at Easter, in the Italian Opera House.--Yours,
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, February 4th, 1832.
+
+You will, I am sure, excuse my writing you only a few words to-day:
+it was but yesterday that I heard of my irreparable loss.[31] Many
+hopes, and a pleasant bright period of my life have departed with
+him, and I never again can feel so happy. I must now set about
+forming new plans, and building fresh castles in the air; the
+former ones are irrevocably gone, for he was interwoven with them
+all. I shall never be able to think of my boyish days, nor of the
+ensuing ones, without connecting him with them, and I had hoped,
+till now, that it might be the same for the future. I must
+endeavour to inure myself to this, but I can recall no one thing
+without being reminded of him; I shall never hear music, or write
+it, without thinking of him; all this makes the rending asunder of
+such a tie doubly distressing. The former epoch has now wholly
+passed away, but not only do I lose that, but also the man I so
+sincerely loved. If I never had any especial reason for loving him,
+or if I no longer had such reasons, I must have loved him all the
+same, even without a reason. He loved me too, and the knowledge
+that there was such a man in the world--one on whom you could
+repose, and who lived to love you, and whose wishes and aims were
+identical with your own--this is all over: it is the most severe
+blow I have ever received, and never can I forget him.
+
+  [31] The death of his friend Edward Ritz, the violin player.
+
+This was the celebration of my birthday. When I was listening to
+Baillot on Tuesday, and said to Hiller that I only knew one man who
+could play the music I loved for me, L---- was standing beside me,
+and knew what had happened, but did not give me the letter. He was
+not aware indeed that yesterday was my birthday, but he broke it to
+me by degrees yesterday morning, and then I recalled previous
+anniversaries, and took a review of the past, as every one should
+on his birthday; I remembered how invariably on this day he arrived
+with some special gift which he had long thought of, and which was
+always as pleasing and agreeable and welcome as himself. The day
+was a melancholy one to me: I could neither do anything, nor think
+of anything, but the one subject.
+
+To-day I have compelled myself to work, and succeeded. My overture
+in A minor is finished. I think of writing some pieces here, which
+will be well remunerated.
+
+I beg you will tell me every particular about him, and every
+detail, no matter how trifling; it will be a comfort to me to hear
+of him once more. The octett parts, so neatly copied by him, are
+lying before me at this moment, and remind me of him. I hope
+shortly to recover my usual equanimity, and to be able to write to
+you in better spirits and more at length. A new chapter in my life
+has begun, but as yet it has no title. Your
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, February 13th, 1832.
+
+I am now leading a quiet, pleasant life here; neither my present
+frame of mind, nor the pleasures of society, tempt me to enter into
+gaiety. Here, and indeed everywhere else, society is uninteresting,
+and not improving, and owing to the late hours, monopolizing a
+great deal of time. I do not refuse, however, when there is to be
+good music. I will write all particulars to Zelter of the first
+concert in the Conservatoire. The performers there play quite
+admirably, and in so finished a style, that it is indeed a pleasure
+to hear them; they delight in it themselves, and each takes the
+greatest possible trouble; the leader is an energetic, experienced
+musician, so they cannot fail to go well together.
+
+To-morrow my A minor quartett is to be performed in public.
+Cherubini says of Beethoven's later music, "Ça me fait éternuer,"
+and so I think it probable that the whole public will sneeze
+to-morrow. The performers are Baillot, Sauzay, Urhan, and
+Norblin--the best here.
+
+My overture in A minor is completed; it represents bad weather. A
+few days ago I finished an introduction, where it thaws, and spring
+arrives; I have counted the sheets of the "Walpurgis Night,"
+revised the seven numbers a little, and then boldly written
+underneath--Milan, July; Paris, February. I think it will please
+you. I must now write an adagio for my quintett without delay; the
+performers are calling loudly for one, and they are right.
+
+I do wish you could hear a rehearsal of my "Midsummer Night's
+Dream" at the Conservatoire, where they play it most beautifully.
+It is not yet certain whether it will be ready by next Sunday;
+there are to be two more rehearsals before then, but as yet it has
+only been twice played over. I think however that it will do, and I
+would rather it was given on Sunday than at the third concert,
+because I am to play on behalf of the poor on the 26th (something
+of Weber's), and on the 27th at Erard's concert (my Munich
+Concerto), and at other places, and I should like my composition to
+appear first at the "Conservatoire." I am also to play there, and
+the members are anxious that I should give them a Sonata of
+Beethoven's; it may seem bold, but I prefer his Concerto in G
+major, which is quite unknown here.
+
+I look forward with the utmost delight to the symphony in D minor,
+which is to be rehearsed next week; I certainly never dreamt that I
+should hear it in Paris for the first time.
+
+I often visit the theatre, where I see a great display of wit and
+talent, but a degree of immorality that almost exceeds belief. It
+is supposed that no lady can go to the "Gymnase"--still they do go.
+Depict me to yourself as reading "Notre Dame," dining with one or
+other of my acquaintances every day, and taking advantage of the
+lovely bright spring weather after three o'clock, to take a walk,
+and to pay a few visits, and to look at the gaily-dressed ladies
+and gentlemen in the splendid gardens of the Tuileries--then you
+will have my day in Paris. Adieu.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, February 21st, 1832.
+
+Almost every letter that I receive from you now announces some sad
+loss. Yesterday I got the one in which you tell me about poor
+U----, whom I shall no longer find with you; so this is not a time
+for idle talk; I feel that I must work, and strive to make
+progress.
+
+I have composed a grand adagio as an intermezzo for the quintett.
+It is called "Nachruf," and it occurred to me, as I had to compose
+something for Baillot, who plays so beautifully, and is so kindly
+disposed towards me, and who wishes to perform it in public; and
+yet he is only a recent acquaintance. Two days ago my overture to
+the "Midsummer Night's Dream" was given for the first time at a
+concert in the Conservatoire. It caused me great pleasure, for it
+went admirably, and seemed also to please the audience. It is to be
+repeated at one of the ensuing concerts, and my symphony, which has
+been rather delayed on this account, is to be rehearsed on Friday
+or Saturday. In the fourth or fifth concert, I am to play
+Beethoven's Concerto in G major.
+
+The musicians are all amazement at the honours conferred on me by
+the Conservatoire. They played my A minor quartett wonderfully last
+Tuesday, with such fire and precision, that it was delightful to
+listen to them, and as I can never again hear Ritz, I shall
+probably never hear it better given. It appeared to make a great
+impression on the audience, and at the scherzo they were quite
+uproarious.
+
+It is now high time, dear father, to write you a few words with
+regard to my travelling plans, and on this occasion in a more
+serious strain than usual, for many reasons. I must first, in
+taking a general view of the past, refer to what you designed to be
+the chief object of my journey; desiring me strictly to adhere to
+it. I was closely to examine the various countries, and to fix on
+the one where I wished to live and to work; I was further to make
+known my name and capabilities, in order that the people, among
+whom I resolved to settle, should receive me well, and not be
+wholly ignorant of my career; and, finally, I was to take advantage
+of my own good fortune, and your kindness, to press forward in my
+subsequent efforts. It is a happy feeling to be able to say, that I
+believe this has been the case.
+
+Always excepting those mistakes which are not discovered till too
+late, I think I have fulfilled the appointed object. People now
+know that I exist, and that I have a purpose, and any talent that I
+display, they are ready to approve and to accept. They have _made
+advances_ to me here, and _proposed_ to take my music, which they
+seldom do; as all the others, even Onslow, have been obliged to
+_offer_ their compositions. The London Philharmonic have requested
+me to perform something new of my own there on the 10th of March. I
+also got the commission from Munich without taking any step
+whatever to obtain it, and indeed not till _after_ my concert. It
+is my intention to give a concert here (if possible) and certainly
+in London in April, if the cholera does not prevent my going there;
+and this on my own account, in order to make money; I hope,
+therefore, I may say that I have also fulfilled this part of your
+wish--that I should make myself known to the public before
+returning to you.
+
+Your injunction, too, to make choice of the country that I
+preferred to live in, I have equally performed, at least in a
+general point of view. That country is Germany. This is a point on
+which I have now quite made up my mind. I cannot yet, however,
+decide on the particular city, for the most important of all, which
+for various reasons has so many attractions for me. I have not yet
+thought of in this light--I allude to Berlin. On my return,
+therefore, I must ascertain whether I can remain and establish
+myself there, according to my views and wishes, after having seen
+and enjoyed other places.
+
+This is also why I do not endeavour to get the commission for an
+opera here. If I compose really good music, which in these days is
+indispensable, it will both be understood and valued in Germany.
+(This has been the case with all the good operas there.) If I
+compose indifferent music, it will be quickly forgotten in Germany,
+but here it would be often performed and extolled, and sent to
+Germany, and given there on the authority of Paris, as we daily
+see. But I do not choose this; and if I am not capable of composing
+good music, I have no wish to be praised for it. So I shall first
+try Germany; and if things go so badly that I can no longer live
+there, I can then have recourse to some foreign country. Besides,
+few German theatres are so bad or in so dilapidated a condition as
+the Opéra Comique here. One bankruptcy succeeds another. When
+Cherubini is asked why he does not allow his operas to be given
+there, he replies, "Je ne sais pas donner des opéras, sans choeur,
+sans orchestre, sans chanteurs, et sans décorations." The Grand
+Opéra has bespoken operas for years to come, so there is no chance
+of anything being accepted by it for the next three or four years.
+
+In the meantime therefore I intend to return to you to write my
+"Tempest," and to see how it succeeds. The plan, therefore, dear
+father, that I wish to lay before you is this--to remain here till
+the end of March, or the beginning of April, (the invitation to the
+Philharmonic for the 10th of March, I have of course declined, or
+rather postponed,) then to go to London for a couple of months. If
+the Rhenish musical festival takes place, to which I am summoned, I
+shall go to Düsseldorf; and if not, return direct to you by the
+shortest road, and be by your side in the garden soon after
+Whitsunday. Farewell!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, March 15th, 1832.
+
+     Dear Mother,
+
+  [Music]
+
+This is the 15th of March, 1832. May every happiness and good
+attend you on this day. You prefer _receiving_ my letter on your
+birthday, to its being written on the day itself; but forgive me
+for saying that I cannot reconcile myself to this. My father said
+that no one could tell what might occur subsequently, therefore the
+letter ought to arrive on the anniversary of the day; but then I
+have this feeling in _double_ measure, as I neither in that case
+know what is to occur to _you_ on that day, nor to _myself_; but if
+your birthday be actually arrived, then I almost feel as if I were
+beside you, though you cannot hear my congratulations; but I can
+then send them to you, without any other solicitude than that of
+absence. This too will soon be over, please God. May He preserve
+you, and all at home, happily to me!
+
+I have now begun to throw myself in right earnest into a musical
+life, and as I know this must be satisfactory to you, I will write
+some details; for a letter and a sketch-book that I wished to send
+you some days ago by Mortier's aide-de-camp, are still waiting,
+like all Paris, for the departure of the Marshal, which does not
+however take place. If the letter and the book do eventually reach
+you through this man, pray give a kind reception to the whole
+consignment, but especially to the man (Count Perthuis), for he is
+one of the most friendly and amiable persons I ever met with.
+
+I had told you in that letter, that I am to play Beethoven's
+Concerto in G major two days hence, in the Conservatoire, and that
+the whole Court are to be present for the first time at the
+concert. K---- is ready to poison me from envy; he at first tried
+by a thousand intrigues to prevent my playing altogether, and when
+he heard that the Queen was actually coming, the did everything in
+his power to get me out of the way. Happily all the other members
+of the Conservatoire, the all-powerful Habeneck in particular, are
+my faithful allies, and so he signally failed. He is the only
+musician here who acts unkindly and hypocritically towards me; and
+though I never placed much confidence in him, still it is always a
+very painful sensation to know that you are in the society of a
+person who hates you, but is careful not to show it.
+
+
+     The 17th.
+
+I could not finish this letter, because during the last few days
+the incessant music I told you of, has been so overwhelming, that I
+really scarcely knew which way to turn. A mere catalogue therefore
+of all I have done, and have still to do, must suffice for to-day,
+and at the same time plead my excuse.
+
+I have just come back from a rehearsal at the Conservatoire. We
+rehearsed steadily; twice yesterday, and to-day almost everything
+repeated, but now all goes swimmingly. If the audience to-morrow
+are only half as enchanted as the orchestra to-day, we shall do
+well; for they shouted loudly for the adagio _da capo_, and
+Habeneck made them a little speech, to point out to them that at
+the close there was a solo bar, which they must be so good as to
+wait for. You would be gratified to see all the little kindnesses
+and courtesies the latter shows me. At the end of each movement of
+the symphony, he asks me if there is anything I do not approve of,
+so I have been able for the first time, to introduce into the
+French orchestra some favourite _nuances_ of my own.
+
+After the rehearsal Baillot played my octett in his class, and if
+any man in the world can play it, he is the man. His performance
+was finer than I ever heard it, and so was that of Urhan, Norblin,
+and the others, who all attacked the piece with the most ardent
+energy and spirit.
+
+Besides all this, I must finish the arrangement of the overture and
+the octett, and revise the quintett, as Simrock has bought it. I
+must write out "Lieder," and enjoy the author's delight of working
+up my B minor quartett, for it is to be brought out here by two
+different publishers, who have requested me to make some
+alterations before it is published. Finally, I have _soirées_ every
+evening. To-night Bohrer's; to-morrow a fête, with all the violin
+_gamins_ of the Conservatoire; next day, Rothschild; Tuesday, the
+Société des Beaux-Arts; Wednesday my octett at the Abbé Bardin's;
+Thursday my octett at Madame Kiéné's; Friday, a concert at Érard's;
+Sunday, a concert at Léo's; and lastly, on Monday--laugh if you
+choose--my octett is to be performed in a church, at a funeral Mass
+in commemoration of Beethoven. This is the strangest thing the
+world ever yet saw, but I could not refuse, and I in some degree
+enjoy the thoughts of being present, when Low Mass is read during
+the scherzo. I can scarcely imagine anything more absurd than a
+priest at the altar and my scherzo going on. It is like travelling
+_incognito_. Last of all Baillot gives a grand concert on the 7th
+of April, and so I have promised him to remain here till then, and
+to play a Concerto of Mozart's for him, and some other piece.
+
+On the 8th I take my place in the diligence, and set off to London,
+but before doing so I shall have heard my symphony in the
+Conservatoire, and sold various pieces, and shall leave this,
+rejoicing in the friendly reception I have met with from the
+musicians here.--Farewell!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, March 31st, 1832.
+
+Pray forgive my long silence, but I had nothing cheering to
+communicate, and am always very unwilling to write gloomy letters.
+Indeed, this being the case, I had better still have remained
+silent, for I am in anything but a gay mood. But now that we have
+the spectre here,[32] I mean to write to you regularly, that you
+may know that I am well, and pursuing my work.
+
+  [32] The cholera.
+
+The sad news of Goethe's loss makes me feel poor indeed! What a
+blow to the country! It is another of those mournful events
+connected with my stay here, which will always recur to my mind at
+the very name of Paris; and not all the kindness I have received,
+nor the tumult and excitement, nor the life and gaiety here, can
+ever efface this impression. May it please God to preserve me from
+still worse tidings, and grant us all a happy meeting; this is the
+chief thing!
+
+Various circumstances have induced me to delay my departure from
+here for at least a fortnight,--that is, till the middle of April;
+and the idea of my concert has begun to revive in my mind; I mean
+to accomplish it too, if the cholera does not deter people from
+musical, or any other kind of réunions. We shall know this in the
+course of a week, and in any case I must remain here till then. I
+believe however that everything will go on in the usual regular
+course, and "Figaro" prove to be in the right, who wrote an article
+called "Enfoncé le choléra," in which he says that Paris is the
+grave of all reputations, for no one there ever admired anything;
+yawning at Paganini (he does not seem to please much this time),
+and not even looking round in the street at an Emperor or a Dey; so
+possibly this malady might also lose its formidable reputation
+there.
+
+Count Perthuis has no doubt told you of my playing at the
+Conservatoire. The French say that it was _un beau succès_, and the
+audience were pleased. The Queen, too, sent me all sorts of fine
+compliments on the subject. On Saturday I am again to play twice in
+public. My octett, in church on Monday last, exceeded in absurdity
+anything the world ever saw or heard of. While the priest was
+officiating at the altar during the scherzo, it really sounded like
+"Fliegenschnauz und Mückennas, verfluchte Dilettanten." The people
+however considered it very fine sacred music.
+
+I am indeed delighted, dear Father, that my quartett in B minor
+pleases you; it is a favourite of mine, and I like to play it,
+although the adagio is much too cloying; still, the scherzo that
+follows has all the more effect. I can see that you seem rather
+inclined to deride my A minor quartett, when you say that there is
+a piece of instrumental music which has made you rack your brains
+to discover the composer's thoughts; when, in fact, he probably had
+no thoughts at all. I must defend the work, for I love it; but it
+certainly depends very much on the way in which it is executed, and
+one single musician who could perform it with zeal and sympathy, as
+Taubert did, would make a vast difference.--Your
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+EXTRACT FROM A LETTER FROM LONDON.
+
+     London, April 27th, 1832.
+
+I wish I could only describe how happy I feel to be here once more;
+how much I like everything, and how gratified I am by the kindness
+of old friends; but as it is all going on at this moment, I must be
+brief for to-day.
+
+I have also a number of people to seek out whom I have not yet
+seen, whilst I have been living with Klingemann, Rosen, and
+Moscheles, in as close intimacy as if we had never been parted.
+They form the nucleus of my present sojourn; we see each other
+every day; it is such a pleasure to me to be once more with good,
+earnest men, and true friends, with whom I do not require to be on
+my guard, nor to study them either. Moscheles and his wife show me
+a degree of touching kindness, which I value the more as my regard
+for them increases; and then the feeling of restored health, as if
+I lived afresh, and had come anew into this world--all these are
+combined.[33]
+
+  [33] Felix Mendelssohn had an attack of cholera during the last
+  weeks of his stay in Paris.
+
+
+     May 11th.
+
+I cannot describe to you the happiness of these first weeks here.
+As from time to time every evil seems to accumulate, as it did
+during my winter in Paris, where I lost some of my most beloved
+friends, and never felt at home, and at last became very ill; so
+the reverse sometimes occurs, and thus it is in this charming
+country, where I am once more amongst friends, and am well, and
+among well-wishers, and enjoy in the fullest measure the sensation
+of returning health. Moreover it is warm, the lilacs are in bloom,
+and music is going on: only imagine how pleasant all this is!
+
+I must really describe one happy morning last week: of all the
+flattering demonstrations I have hitherto received, it is the one
+which has most touched and affected me, and perhaps the only one
+which I shall always recall with fresh pleasure. There was a
+rehearsal last Saturday at the Philharmonic, where however nothing
+of mine was given, my overture not being yet written out. After
+"Beethoven's Pastoral Symphony," during which I was in a box, I
+wished to go into the room to talk to some old friends; scarcely,
+however, had I gone down below, when one of the orchestra called
+out, "There is Mendelssohn!" on which they all began shouting, and
+clapping their hands to such a degree, that for a time I really did
+not know what to do; and when this was over, another called out
+"Welcome to him!" on which the same uproar recommenced, and I was
+obliged to cross the room, and to clamber into the orchestra and
+return thanks.
+
+Never can I forget it, for it was more precious to me than any
+distinction, as it showed me that the _musicians_ loved me, and
+rejoiced at my coming, and I cannot tell you what a glad feeling
+this was.
+
+
+     May 18th.
+
+     Dear Father,
+
+I have received your letter of the 9th; God grant that Zelter may
+by this time be safe, and out of danger! You say indeed that he
+already is so, but I shall anxiously expect your next letter, to
+see the news of his recovery confirmed. I have dreaded this ever
+since Goethe's death, but when it actually occurs, it is a very
+different thing. May Heaven avert it!
+
+Pray tell me also what your mean by saying "there is no doubt that
+Zelter both wishes, and requires, to have you with him, because, at
+all events for the present, it is quite impossible for him to carry
+on the Academy, whence it is evident that if you do not undertake
+it, another must." Has Zelter expressed this wish to you, or do you
+only imagine that he entertains it? If the former were the case, I
+would instantly, on receiving your reply, write to Zelter, and
+offer him every service in my power, of every kind, and try to
+relieve him from all his labours, for as long a period as he
+desired; and this it certainly would be my duty to do.
+
+I intended to have written to Lichtenstein before my return about
+the proposal formerly made to me,[34] but of course I have given up
+all thoughts of doing so at present; for on no account would I
+assume that Zelter could not resume his duties, and even in that
+event, I could not reconcile myself to discuss the matter with any
+one but himself; every other mode of proceeding I should consider
+unfair towards him. If however he requires my services, I am ready,
+and shall rejoice if I can be of any use to him, but still more so,
+if he does not want me, and is entirely recovered. I beg you will
+write me a few words on this subject.
+
+  [34] In reference to a situation in the Singacademie.
+
+I must now inform you of my plans and engagements till I leave
+this. Yesterday I finished the "Rondeau brillant," and I am to play
+it this day week at Mori's evening concert. The day after I
+rehearse my Munich Concerto at the Philharmonic, and play it on
+Monday the 28th at their concert; on the 1st of June Moscheles'
+concert, where, with him, I play a Concerto of Mozart's for two
+pianos, and conduct my two overtures, "The Hebrides" and "The
+Midsummer Night's Dream." Finally, the last Philharmonic is on the
+11th, where I am to conduct some piece.
+
+I must finish the arrangement for Cramer, and some "Lieder" for the
+piano, also some songs with English words, besides some German ones
+for myself, for after all it is spring, and the lilacs are in
+bloom. Last Monday "The Hebrides" was given for the first time in
+the Philharmonic; it went admirably, and sounded very quaint among
+a variety of Rossini pieces. The audience received both me and my
+work with extreme kindness. This evening is Mr. Vaughan's concert;
+but I am sure you must be quite sick of hearing of so many
+concerts, so I conclude.
+
+
+     Norwood, Surrey, May 25th.
+
+These are hard times, and many are laid low![35] May it please God
+to preserve you all to me, and to grant us a joyful meeting! You
+will receive this letter from the same villa whence I wrote to you
+three years ago last November, just before my return.
+
+  [35] He had received the news of Zelter's death.
+
+I have now come out here for a few days to rest, and to collect my
+thoughts, just as I did at that time, on account of my health. All
+is unchanged here; my room is precisely the same; even the music in
+the old cupboard stands exactly in the same spot; the people are
+quite as considerate, and quiet, and attentive as formerly, and the
+three years have passed over both them and their house, as
+peacefully as if half the world had not been uprooted during that
+period.
+
+It is pleasant to see; the only difference is, that we have now gay
+spring, and apple-blossoms, and lilacs, and all kinds of flowers,
+whereas at that time we had autumn, with its fogs and blazing
+fires; but how much is now gone for ever, that we then still had;
+this gives much food for thought. Just as at that time I wrote to
+you saying little, save "farewell till we meet;" so must it be
+to-day also. It will indeed be a graver meeting, and I bring no
+"Liederspiel" with me composed in this room, as the former one was,
+but God grant I may only find you all well.
+
+You write, dear Fanny, that I ought especially to hasten my return,
+in order if possible to secure the situation in the Academy; but
+this I do not choose to do. I shall return as soon as I can,
+because my father writes that he wishes me to do so; I therefore
+intend to set off in about a fortnight, but solely for _that_
+reason; the other motive would rather tend to detain me here,
+indeed, if any motive could do so; for I will in no manner solicit
+the situation.
+
+When I reminded my father formerly of the proposal of the Director,
+the reason which he then advanced against it, seemed to me
+perfectly just; he said that he regarded this place rather as a
+sinecure for more advanced years, "when the Academy might be
+resorted to as a harbour of refuge." For the next few years I
+aspire as little to _this_ as to any other situation; my purpose is
+to live by the fruits of my labours, just as I do here, and my
+resolve is to be independent. Considering the peculiar position of
+the Academy, the small salary they give, and the great influence
+they might exercise, the place of Director seems to me only an
+honourable post, which I have no desire to _sue_ for. If they were
+to offer it to me, I would accept it, because I promised formerly
+to do so; but only for a settled time and on certain conditions;
+and if they do not intend to offer it, then my presence can be of
+no possible use. I do not certainly require to convince them of my
+capability for the office, and I neither will, nor can, intrigue.
+Besides, for the reasons I mentioned in a previous letter, I cannot
+leave England till after the 11th, and the affair will no doubt be
+decided before that time.
+
+I beg that no step of any kind may be taken on my behalf, except
+_that_ which my father mentioned concerning my immediate return;
+but nothing in the smallest degree approaching to solicitation; and
+when they do make their choice, I only hope that they may find a
+man who will perform his duties with as much zeal as old Zelter.
+
+I received the intelligence in the morning just as I was going to
+write to him; then came a rehearsal of my new piece for the piano,
+with its wild gaiety, and when the musicians were applauding and
+complimenting me, I could not help feeling strongly, that I was
+indeed in a foreign land. I then came here, where I found both men
+and places unchanged; but Hauser unexpectedly arrived, and we fell
+into each other's arms, and recalled the happy days we had enjoyed
+together in South Germany the previous autumn, and all that has
+passed away for ever, during the last six months. Your mournful
+news was always present to me in its sad reality--so this is the
+manner in which I have spent the last few days here. Forgive me for
+not being able to write properly to-day. I go to town this evening
+to play, and also to-morrow, Sunday, and Monday.
+
+I have now a favour to ask of you, dear Father, in reference to the
+cantatas of Sebastian Bach, which Zelter possessed. If you can
+possibly prevent their being disposed of before my return, pray do
+so, for I am most anxious at any price to see the entire collection
+before it is dispersed.
+
+I might have told you of many agreeable things that have occurred
+to me during the last few weeks, for every day brings me fresh
+proofs that the people like me, and are glad to associate with me;
+which is gratifying, and makes my life here easy and pleasant; but
+to-day I really cannot. Perhaps in my next letter my spirits may be
+sufficiently restored, to return to my usual narrative style.
+
+Many remembrances from the Moscheles; they are excellent people,
+and after so long an interval, it is most cheering once more to
+meet an artist, who is not a victim to envy, jealousy, or miserable
+egotism. He makes continued and steady progress in his art.
+
+The warm sun is shining out-of-doors, so I shall now go down into
+the garden, to perform some gymnastics there, and to smell the
+lilacs; this will show you that I am well.
+
+
+     London, June 1st.
+
+On the day that I received the news of Zelter's death, I thought
+that I should have had a serious illness, and indeed during the
+whole of the ensuing week I could not shake off this feeling. My
+manifold engagements however have now diverted my thoughts, and
+brought me to myself, or rather out of myself. I am well again, and
+very busy.
+
+First of all I must thank you, dear Father, for your kind letter.
+It is in a great measure already answered by my previous one, but I
+will now repeat why I decline sending any application to the
+committee.
+
+In the first place, I quite agree with your former opinion, that
+this situation in the Academy is not desirable at the outset of my
+career; indeed I could only accept it for a certain time, and under
+particular conditions, and even then, solely to perform my
+previous promise. If I solicit it, I am bound to accept the place,
+as they choose to give it, and to comply with their conditions as
+to salary, duties, etc., though I do not as yet even know what
+these are.
+
+In the second place, the reason they gave you why I should write,
+seems to me neither a true nor a straightforward one. They say they
+wish to be certain I will accept of it, and that on this account I
+must enroll myself among the candidates; but they _offered_ it to
+me three years ago, and Lichtenstein said they did so to ascertain
+if I would take it, and begged me to give a distinct answer on this
+point; at that time I said _yes_, that I was willing to carry it
+on, along with Rungenhagen. I am not sure that I should think the
+same now; but as I said so then, I can no longer draw back, and
+must keep my word. It is not necessary to repeat my assent, for as
+I once gave it, so it must remain; still less can I do so when I
+should have to _offer_ myself to them for the post they once
+_offered to me_. If they were disposed to adhere to their former
+offer, they would not require me to take a step which they took
+themselves three years ago; on the contrary, they would remember
+the assent I then gave, for they must know that I am incapable of
+breaking such a promise.
+
+A confirmation of my former promise is therefore quite unnecessary,
+and if they intend to appoint another to the situation, my letter
+would not prevent their doing so. I must further refer to my letter
+from Paris, in which I told you that I wished to return to Berlin
+in the spring, as it was the only city in Germany with which I was
+still unacquainted.
+
+This is my well-weighed purpose; I do not know how I shall get on
+in Berlin, or whether I shall be able to remain there,--that is,
+whether I shall be able to enjoy the same facilities for work, and
+progress, that are offered to me in other places. The only house
+that I know in Berlin is our own, and I feel certain I shall be
+quite happy there; but I must also be in a position to be actively
+employed, and this I shall discover when I return. I hope that all
+will come to pass as I wish, for of course the spot where _you_
+live must be always dearest to me; but till I know this to a
+certainty I do not wish to fetter myself by any situation.
+
+I conclude, because I have a vast deal to do to enable me to set
+off after the next Philharmonic. I must publish several pieces
+before I go; I receive numbers of commissions on all sides, and
+some so gratifying that I exceedingly regret not being able to set
+to work at once.
+
+Among others, I this morning got a note from a publisher, who
+wishes me to give him the score of two grand pieces of sacred
+music, for morning and evening service; you may imagine how much I
+am pleased with this proposal, and immediately on my arrival in the
+Leipziger Strasse I intend to begin them.
+
+"The Hebrides" I mean to reserve for a time for myself, before
+arranging it as a duet; but my new rondo is in hand, and I must
+finish those everlasting "Lieder" for the piano, as well as
+various other arrangements, and probably the Concerto. I played it
+last Monday in the Philharmonic, and I think I never in my life had
+such success. The audience were crazy with delight, and declared it
+was my best work.
+
+I am now going to Moscheles' concert, to conduct there, and to play
+Mozart's Concerto, in which I have inserted two long cadences for
+each of us.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+THE END
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters of Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy
+from Italy and Switzerland, by Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy
+
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters of Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy from
+Italy and Switzerland, by Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Letters of Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy from Italy and Switzerland
+
+Author: Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy
+
+Release Date: April 5, 2012 [EBook #39384]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF FELIX MENDELSSOHN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Hélène de Mink, Bryan Ness, Music transcribed
+by Anne Celnick, Linda Cantoni, and the DP Music Team and
+the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="p2 box">
+<p>Transcriber's note: Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the
+original document have been preserved. Obvious typographical errors
+have been corrected.</p>
+</div>
+
+<h1 class="p4"><span class="xlarge">LETTERS</span><br />
+<span class="small">OF</span><br />
+FELIX MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY<br />
+<span class="small">FROM</span><br />
+<span class="medium">ITALY AND SWITZERLAND.</span></h1>
+
+<p class="p2 center">TRANSLATED BY LADY WALLACE.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="small">WITH A BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICE</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">By</span> JULIE DE MARGUERITTES.</p>
+
+<div class="p2 figcenter">
+<img src="images/logo.jpg" width="100" height="157" alt="logo" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="p4 center">BOSTON:<br />
+OLIVER DITSON &mdash; CO., 277 WASHINGTON STREET.<br />
+NEW YORK: C. H. DITSON &mdash; CO.</p>
+
+<p><a id="Page_I"></a></p>
+
+<h2 class="p4">FELIX MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY.</h2>
+
+<p class="p2">Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy was born at
+Hamburg, on the third of February, 1809. The name
+to which he was destined to add such lustre, was
+already high in the annals of fame. Moses Mendelssohn,
+his grandfather, a great Jewish philosopher,
+one of the most remarkable men of his time, was the
+author of profound Metaphysical works, written both
+in German and Hebrew. To this great power of
+intellect, Moses Mendelssohn added a purity and
+dignity of character worthy of the old stoics. The
+epigraph on the bust of this ancestor of the composer,
+shows the esteem in which he was held by his
+contemporaries:</p>
+
+<p>"Faithful to the religion of his fathers, as wise
+as Socrates, like Socrates teaching the immortality
+of the soul, and like Socrates leaving a name that is
+immortal."</p>
+
+<p>One of Moses Mendelssohn's daughters married
+Frederick Schlegel, and swerving from the religion
+in which both had been brought up, both became
+Roman Catholics.</p>
+
+<p>Joseph Mendelssohn, the eldest son of this great
+old man, was also distinguished for his literary taste,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_II"> II</a></span>
+and has left two excellent works of very different
+characters, one on Dante, the other on the system of
+a paper currency.</p>
+
+<p>In conjunction with his brother, Abraham, he
+founded the banking-house of Mendelssohn &mdash; Company
+at Berlin, still flourishing under the management
+of the sons of the original founders, the
+brothers and cousins of Felix, the subject of this
+memoir.</p>
+
+<p>George Mendelssohn the son of Joseph, was
+also a distinguished political writer and Professor
+in the University at Bonn.</p>
+
+<p>With such an array of intellectual ancestry, the
+Mendelssohn of our day came into the world at
+Hamburg, on the third of February,1809. He was
+named Felix, and a more appropriate name could
+not have been found for him, for in character, circumstance
+and endowment, he was supremely happy.
+Goethe, speaking of him, said "the boy was born
+on a lucky day." His first piece of good fortune,
+was in having not only an excellent virtuous woman
+for his mother, but a woman who, besides these
+qualities, possessed extraordinary intellect and had
+received an education that fitted her to be the
+mother of children endowed as hers were. She
+professed the Lutheran creed, in which her children
+were brought up. Being of a distinguished commercial
+family and an heiress, her husband added her
+name of Bartholdy to his own. Mme. Mendelssohn
+Bartholdy's other children were, Fanny her first-born,
+whose life is entirely interwoven with that of
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_III"> III</a></span>
+her brother Felix, and Paul and Rebecca, born some
+years later.</p>
+
+<p>When yet a boy, Felix removed with his parents
+to Berlin, probably at the time of the formation of
+the banking house. The Prussian capital has often
+claimed the honor of being his birthplace, but that
+distinction really belongs to Hamburg.</p>
+
+<p>His extraordinary musical talent was not long in
+developing itself. His sister Fanny, his "soul's
+friend" and constant companion, almost as richly
+endowed as himself, aroused his emulation, and they
+studied music together first as an art, and then as a
+science, to be the foundation of future works of inspiration
+and genius.</p>
+
+<p>Zelter, severe and classic, profoundly scientific,
+inexorable for all that was not true science, became
+the teacher of these two gifted children in composition
+and in counterpoint. For piano-forte playing,
+Berger was the professor, though some years
+later Moscheles added the benefit of his counsels,
+and Felix was fond of calling himself the pupil of
+Moscheles, with whom in after life he contracted a
+close friendship. Zelter was exceedingly proud of
+his pupil, soon discovering that instead of an industrious
+and intelligent child, one of the greatest
+musical geniuses ever known was dawning on the
+world. When he was but fifteen, Zelter took the
+young musician to Weimar, and secured for him the
+acquaintance and good will of Goethe, which as
+long as Goethe lived, seemed to be the necessary
+consecration of all talent in Germany. By this time
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_IV"> IV</a></span>
+not only was he an admirable performer on the
+piano, possessed of a talent for improvisation and a
+memory so wonderful, that not only could he play
+almost all Bach, Händel, Haydn, Mozart and Beethoven
+by heart, but he could also without hesitation
+accompany a whole opera from memory, provided he
+had but seen the score once. The overture to Midsummer
+Night's Dream, so popular now in every country,
+was composed before he was seventeen, and was
+played for the first time as a duet on the piano by
+his sister Fanny and himself on the 19th November,
+1826. This is indeed the inspiration of youth with
+its brilliancy, its buoyancy, its triumphant joy, full
+of the poetry of a young heart, full of the imagination
+of a mind untainted by the world. It was not
+till some years after, that Mendelssohn completed
+the music to Shakspeare's great play. In 1827,
+Felix left the University of Berlin with great honors.
+He was a profound classical scholar, and has left as
+a specimen of his knowledge, a correct, graceful and
+elegant translation of Terence's comedy of Andria,
+a work greatly approved of by Goethe. He excelled
+in gymnastics, was an elegant rider, and like Lord
+Byron, a bold and accomplished swimmer. The year
+he left the University, he went to England, where
+Henrietta Sonntag was in the height of her fame.
+He played in several concerts where she sang, as
+well as with Moscheles, his old friend and teacher,
+now established in London.</p>
+
+<p>On his return to Germany in 1830, he visited
+Goethe at Weimar, and there planned his journey
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_V"> V</a></span>
+to Italy, a country which all men of genius yearn
+after, as the promised land of inspiration. When
+in Rome, Felix Mendelssohn began the grand Cantata
+of the Walpurgis Night, to Goethe's words, at
+which he worked for some years. On his return
+from his travels, Mendelssohn, who had now all the
+assurance and self-possession of an artist, was appointed
+chapel-master at Düsseldorf, a position which
+gave him the direction of the grand musical festivals
+held at that time in this city and in Aix-la-Chapelle.
+It was during his residence in Düsseldorf, that he
+composed his oratorio of St. Paul, and also, the
+first set of his "Songs without Words" for the piano,
+where the music, by its varied expression and its
+intensity, alone told the story of the poet. These
+compositions were a novelty for piano-forte players,
+and inaugurated a new style, full of interest, gradually
+setting aside the variations and sonatas which
+had become so meaningless and tedious. The oratorio
+of St. Paul was not given until 1836, when it was
+produced at Düsseldorf, under his own special superintendence.
+Mendelssohn composed very rapidly,
+but he was cautious in giving his works to the
+public, until they thoroughly satisfied his judgment,
+the most critical to which they could be submitted.</p>
+
+<p>In the latter part of 1836, having gone to Frankfort,
+to direct a concert of the Ceciliaverein, he
+became acquainted with Cecilia Jeanrenaud, a beautiful
+and accomplished girl, the second daughter of
+a clergyman of the Reformed Church, and in the
+spring of 1837 she became his wife. The marriage
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_VI"> VI</a></span>
+had been delayed some months by Mendelssohn's
+ill health; he had begun to feel the first symptoms
+of the nervous disease, affecting the brain,
+from which he was destined henceforth to suffer,
+and of which, finally, he was fated to die.</p>
+
+<p>After his marriage he undertook the direction of
+the Leipzig Concerts. All over Germany, Mendelssohn
+was in requisition; his immense genius as a
+composer, his great skill as a conductor, his gentle,
+fascinating manners, gave him extraordinary popularity.
+It was England, however, after all, who
+appreciated him most. Sacred music seems to appeal
+especially to the English taste. Haydn, Händel,
+Beethoven have all found more patronage and appreciation
+in England than in their own country. So it
+was with Mendelssohn; the greatest musical triumph
+ever achieved, was the performance of the oratorio
+of Elijah, given at Birmingham, the work on which
+Mendelssohn's fame will rest. He was nine years
+in composing this oratorio; and notwithstanding the
+most flattering ovation, Mendelssohn's serene temperament
+was not moved to vanity or conceit. In
+the very moment of his success, he sat down modestly
+to correct many things that had not satisfied
+him. The trio for three female voices (without accompaniment)
+one of the most beautiful pieces in
+the oratorio, was added by the composer after the
+public had declared itself satisfied with the work
+as it originally stood. Elijah was produced in 1847,
+but Mendelssohn had been several times to England
+before this, playing at the ancient and Philharmonic
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_VII"> VII</a></span>
+concerts; at that time, the resort of the élite in
+London.</p>
+
+<p>It was during one of these visits in 1842, that
+Prince Albert, who as a German and a musician,
+had sought his acquaintance, introduced him to
+Queen Victoria. The visit was entirely devoid of
+formality, for without any previous announcement,
+the Prince conducted Mendelssohn from his private
+apartments, to the Queen's study, where they found
+her surrounded by papers, and just terminating her
+morning's work. The Queen receiving him most
+graciously, apologized to the composer for the untidiness
+of the room, beginning herself to put it in
+order and laughingly accepting his assistance. After
+some agreeable conversation Mendelssohn sat down
+to the piano and played whatever the Queen asked
+of him. When at length he rose, Prince Albert
+asked the Queen to sing, and gracefully choosing
+one of Mendelssohn's own compositions, she complied
+with the request. Mendelssohn of course
+applauded, but the Queen laughingly told him, that
+she had been too frightened to sing well. "Ask
+Lablache," (Lablache was her singing master) added
+the Queen, "he will tell you that I can sing better
+than I have done to-day." Prince Albert and the
+Queen were ever warm patrons and friends of
+Mendelssohn.</p>
+
+<p>During all this time so brilliantly filled up, Mendelssohn's
+health was continually and gradually declining.
+His nervous susceptibility was such that
+he was often obliged to abstain from playing for
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_VIII"> VIII</a></span>
+weeks together, his gentle and affectionate wife
+watching him and keeping him as much as possible
+from composition. This was a very difficult task,
+for Mendelssohn was a great worker. Even when
+travelling, he would take out pen and ink from his
+pocket and compose at one corner of the table,
+whilst the dinner was getting ready.</p>
+
+<p>Little was Mendelssohn prepared, either mentally
+or physically at this time, to bear the one great
+sorrow that overwhelmed this happy life, on which
+the sun of prosperity had ever shone. His sister
+Fanny, to whom many of his letters were written,
+and who had been the companion of his studies,
+possessing the same tastes and a great deal of the
+same genius; his sister Fanny, who was the nearest
+and dearest affection of his life, was suddenly taken
+from him. She had married and was living in Frankfort,
+where she was the ornament of society, in this
+enlightened and art-loving city, when in the midst
+of a rehearsal of Faust, a symphony of her own
+composition, she was struck with apoplexy and fell
+back dead in her chair. There is no doubt that this
+shock considerably increased the disease from which
+Mendelssohn was suffering, and though he used to
+rally and even appear resigned, this sorrow, until the
+day of his death, lay heavy at his heart. Again he
+tried to find health and peace in travel; he went to
+Switzerland with his wife, who strove to keep him
+from all occupation and labor, but he would gently
+urge her to let him work. "The time is not far off,
+when I shall rest; I must make the most of the time
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_IX"> IX</a></span>
+given me." "I know not how short a time it may
+be," would he say to her. On his return from Switzerland
+and Baden-Baden, he went to Berlin; and once
+more all that remained of this tenderly attached
+family, were united for a short time. At length he
+returned to his home in Leipzig, serene as ever, but
+worn to a shadow by the acute and continued pains
+in the head for which he could obtain no relief. On
+the 9th of October, he went to the house of a friend,
+one of the artists of the Leipzig concerts, and entreated
+her to sing for him a song he had that
+night composed. By a strange coincidence, this
+song began with these words, "Vanished has the
+light of day." It was Mendelssohn's last composition,
+the last music he heard on earth, for whilst the
+lady was singing it, he was seized with vertigo and
+was carried insensible back to his house. He recovered,
+however, comparatively from this attack,
+but a second stroke of apoplexy placed his life in
+extreme peril, and a third, on the 3rd of November,
+made him utterly unconscious. Towards nine o'clock
+on the evening of the 4th, (1847,) he breathed his
+last, going to his everlasting rest as easily and as
+calmly as a tired child sinks to sleep. He was in
+the thirty-ninth year of his age.</p>
+
+<p>Mendelssohn's death was looked upon, throughout
+Germany, as a public calamity. The funeral ceremonies
+at Leipzig were of a most imposing character,
+and all the way from Leipzig to Berlin, where the
+corpse was taken, to be buried in the family vault,
+the most touching honors greeted it. Nearly all the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_X"> X</a></span>
+crowned heads of Europe wrote letters of condolence
+to his widow.</p>
+
+<p>Mendelssohn as a musician is profoundly original.
+In his oratorios "Paul" and "Elijah" he has swerved
+from the conventional religious style; eschewing all
+fugues, his oratorios are full of power, and contain
+great dramatic effects&mdash;at once grand and solemn.
+His other music is remarkable for the sweetness of
+its melodies&mdash;its earnest simplicity. His instrumentality
+is scientific without being pedantic or heavy,
+and utterly devoid of antiquated formalism; though
+pathetic often, there is always a vigor and life in
+all his inspirations; the low mournful wail that runs
+through all Chopin's works, arising from a morbid
+condition of health and heart, is never felt in Mendelssohn.
+There is none of the bitterness, the long
+suffering that artists' lives entail and that artists
+infuse into their works, for Mendelssohn was a
+happy man from first to last.</p>
+
+<p>Mendelssohn the happy, "the boy born on a lucky
+day," has left a life-record that amid the gloomy
+heart-rending and often degrading histories of artists,
+shines with a chaste and holy life. Nature,
+the world and circumstance had done every thing
+for him. To the great and all-sufficient gift of his
+musical genius he added many others,&mdash;he had the
+eye of a painter, the heart of a poet, his intellect was
+of the highest order; he was tall, handsome, graceful,
+his social position one of the finest in Berlin, rich,
+and surrounded by the tenderest family affections.
+With all these advantages, with all the success
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_XI"> XI</a></span>
+that attended him, with all the flattery lavished on
+him, Mendelssohn was never vain or proud, and
+throughout his life was utterly free from envy. His
+fine, fearless, childlike spirit, led him through the
+world, unconscious of evil, undaunted by it. With
+all the temptations that must have assailed the
+young, handsome, rich man, there is not one moment
+of his life over which his friends would wish to draw
+a veil. On such a life as that of Felix Mendelssohn,
+it is good for every one to look, for once, genius
+is not set forth as a dazzling screen to hide and to
+excuse disorder and crime, but genius, that one
+great gift from heaven, was employed as heaven
+would have directed it, each action, each succeeding
+year of his life, bringing forth in various but harmonious
+ways, that extraordinary moral and intellectual
+worth, that rare beauty of character that
+endeared him to all who knew him, ensured him
+the unvarying love of kindred and friends, and the
+admiration of the whole world.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_XII"> XII</a></span></p>
+<p><a id="Page_XIII"></a></p>
+
+<h2 class="p4">PREFACE.</h2>
+
+<p class="p4">Last year a paragraph was inserted in the newspapers,
+requesting any one who possessed letters
+from Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy to send them to
+Professor Droysen, or to myself, with the view of
+completing a selection from his correspondence
+which we contemplated publishing. Our design in
+this was twofold.</p>
+
+<p>In the first place, we wished to offer to the public
+in Mendelssohn's own words, which always so truly
+and faithfully mirrored his thoughts, the most genuine
+impression of his character; and secondly, we
+thought that the biographical elements contained
+in such a correspondence, might be of infinite use
+in the compilation of a memoir&mdash;which we reserve
+for a future day&mdash;and serve as its precursor and
+basis.</p>
+
+<p>There are difficulties, however, opposed to the
+immediate fulfilment of our original purpose to its
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_XIV"> XIV</a></span>
+full extent; and at present it is impossible to decide
+when these can be removed.</p>
+
+<p>I have, therefore, formed the resolution to carry
+out my plan in the meantime within more circumscribed
+limits, but which leaves me unfettered.</p>
+
+<p>On Mendelssohn's return from his first visit to
+England, in the year 1829, he came to Berlin for a
+short time to attend a family festivity, and thence
+in 1830 proceeded to Italy, returning through
+Switzerland to France, and in the beginning of
+1832 visiting England for the second time.</p>
+
+<p>This period, which to a certain degree forms a
+separate section of his life, and which, through the
+vivid impressions it made, assuredly exercised an
+important influence on Mendelssohn's development
+(we may mention that he was only one-and-twenty
+at the commencement of his journey), supplies us
+with a number of letters addressed to his parents,
+and to his sisters, Fanny and Rebecca, as well as to
+myself. I have also added some communications of
+the same date, to various friends, partly entire and
+partly in extracts, and now present them to the
+public in their original integrity.</p>
+
+<p>Those who were personally acquainted with Mendelssohn,
+and who wish once more to realize him as
+he was when in life,&mdash;and those also who would be
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_XV"> XV</a></span>
+glad to acquire a more definite idea of his individuality
+than can be found in the general inferences
+deduced from his musical creations,&mdash;will not lay
+down these letters dissatisfied. Along with this
+particular source of interest they offer a more universal
+one, as they prove how admirably Mendelssohn's
+superior nature, and perceptions of Art,
+mutually pervaded and regulated each other.</p>
+
+<p>With this view, it appeared to me a duty to give
+to the public these letters, stored up in the peaceful
+home for which they were originally destined and
+exclusively intended, and thus to make them accessible
+to a more extended circle. They begin by a
+visit to Goethe. May his words then accompany
+these Letters, as an appropriate convoy:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="line">Be sure the works of mighty men,</div>
+<div class="line">The good, the faithful, the sublime,</div>
+<div class="line">Stored in the gallery of Time,</div>
+<div class="line">Repose awhile&mdash;to wake again."<a name="FNanchor_1" id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p class=" right smcap">Paul Mendelssohn Bartholdy.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Berlin</span>, <i>March</i>, 1861.</p>
+
+<p><a id="Page_XVI"></a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1"> 1</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="p4">LETTERS.</h2>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Weimar, May 21st, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>Never, in the whole course of my travels, do I
+remember a more glorious and inspiriting day for a
+journey than yesterday. At an early hour in the
+morning the sky was grey and cloudy, but the sun
+presently burst forth; the air was cool and fresh,
+and being Ascension Sunday the people were all
+dressed in their best. In one village I saw them
+crowding into church as I passed, in another coming
+away from divine service, and, last of all, playing
+at bowls. The gardens were bright with tulips, and
+I drove quickly past, eagerly looking at everything.
+At Weissenfels they gave me a little basket carriage,
+and at Naumburg an open droschky. My
+effects, including my hat and cloak, were piled
+upon it behind. I bought a few bunches of lilies-of-the-valley,
+and thus I travelled on through the
+country, as if on a pleasure excursion.</p>
+
+<p>Some collegians came up to me beyond Naumburg,
+and envied me. We then drove past President
+G&mdash;&mdash;, seated in a small carriage, which
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"> 2</a></span>
+evidently had some difficulty in containing him, and
+his daughters or <em>wives</em>; in short, the two ladies
+with him, who appeared equally envious of my
+position. We actually <em>trotted</em> up the Kösen Hill,
+for the horses scarcely drew bridle, and overtook
+several heavily-laden carriages, the drivers of which
+no doubt also envied me, for I was really to be
+envied. The scenery had a charming air of spring&mdash;so
+cheerful and gay, and blooming. The sun sank
+solemnly behind the hills, and presently we came up
+with the Russian minister and his suite, in two
+heavy carriages, each with four horses, in true
+ponderous official array; and my light droschky
+darted past him like a hare.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I got a pair of restive horses, so
+that I had my little annoyance also, (according to
+my theory, enhancing pleasure,) and not a single
+bar did I compose all day, but enjoyed complete
+idleness. It was a delicious day, and one I shall
+not soon forget. I close this description with the
+remark, that the children in Eckartsberge dance
+merry rounds hand-in-hand, just as ours do at home,
+and that the appearance of a stranger did not in
+the least disturb them, in spite of his distinguished
+air; I should have liked to join in their game.</p>
+
+<h3>May 24th.</h3>
+
+<p>I wrote this before going to see Goethe, early in
+the forenoon, after a walk in the park; but I could
+not find a moment to finish my letter till now. I
+shall probably remain here for a couple of days,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"> 3</a></span>
+which is no sacrifice, for I never saw the old gentleman
+so cheerful and amiable as on this occasion, or
+so talkative and communicative. My especial reason
+however for staying two days longer, is a very
+agreeable one, and makes me almost vain, or I
+ought rather to say proud, and I do not intend to
+keep it secret from you,&mdash;Goethe, you must know,
+sent me a letter yesterday addressed to an artist
+here, a painter, which I am to deliver myself; and
+Ottilie confided to me that it contains a commission
+to take my portrait, as Goethe wishes to place it in a
+collection of likenesses he has recently commenced
+of his friends. This circumstance gratified me exceedingly;
+as however I have not yet seen the
+complaisant artist who is to accomplish this, nor has
+he seen me, it is probable that I shall have to remain
+here until the day after to-morrow. I don't in the
+least regret this, for, as I have told you, I live a
+most agreeable life here, and thoroughly enjoy the
+society of the old poet. I have dined with him
+every day, and am invited again to-day. This evening
+there is to be a party at his house, where I am
+to play. It is quite delightful to hear him conversing
+on every subject, and seeking information on
+all points.</p>
+
+<p>I must however tell you everything regularly and
+in order, so that you may know each separate detail.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the day I went to see Ottilie, who, though
+still delicate, and often complaining, I thought
+more cheerful than formerly, and quite as kind and
+amiable as ever towards myself. We have been
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"> 4</a></span>
+constantly together since then, and it has been a
+source of much pleasure to me to know her more
+intimately. Ulrike is more agreeable and charming
+than formerly; a certain earnestness pervades her
+whole nature, and she has now a degree of repose,
+and a depth of feeling, that render her one of the
+most attractive creatures I have ever met. The
+two boys, Walter and Wolf, are lively, studious,
+cordial lads, and to hear them talking about
+"Grandpapa's Faust," is most pleasant.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to my narrative. I sent Zelter's
+letter at once to Goethe, who immediately invited
+me to dinner. I thought him very little changed
+in appearance, but at first rather silent and apathetic;
+I think he wished to see how I demeaned
+myself. I was vexed, and thought that possibly he
+was always now in this mood. Happily the conversation
+turned on the <em>Frauen-Vereine</em> in Weimar, and
+on the 'Chaos,' a humorous paper circulated among
+themselves by the ladies here, I having soared so
+high as to be a contributor to this undertaking.
+All at once the old man became quite gay, laughing
+at the two ladies about their charities and intellectualism,
+and their subscriptions and hospital work,
+which he seems cordially to detest. He called on
+me to aid him in his onslaught, and as I did not
+require to be asked twice, he speedily became just
+what he used to be, and at last more kind and confidential
+than I had ever seen him. The assault
+soon became general. The 'Robber Bride' of Ries,
+he said contained all that an artist in these days
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"> 5</a></span>
+required to live happily,&mdash;a robber and a bride;
+then he attacked the young people of the present
+day for their universal tendency to languor and
+melancholy, and related the story of a young lady
+to whom he had once paid court, and who also felt
+some interest in him; a discussion on the exhibitions
+followed, and a fancy bazaar for the poor,
+where the ladies of Weimar were the shopwomen,
+and where he declared it was impossible to purchase
+anything because the young people made a private
+agreement among themselves, and hid the different
+articles till the proper purchasers appeared.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner he all at once began&mdash;"Gute Kinder&mdash;hübsche
+Kinder&mdash;muss immer lustig sein&mdash;tolles
+Volk," etc., his eyes looking like those of a
+drowsy old lion. Then he begged me to play to
+him, and said it seemed strange that he had heard
+no music for so long; that he supposed we had
+made great progress, but he knew nothing of it.
+He wished me to tell him a great deal on the
+subject, saying "Do let us have a little rational
+conversation together;" and turning to Ottilie, he
+said, "No doubt you have already made your own
+wise arrangements, but they must yield to my
+express orders, which are, that you must make tea
+here this evening, that we may be all together
+again." When in return she asked him if it would
+not make him too late, as Riemer was coming to
+work with him, he replied, "As you gave your children
+a holiday from their Latin to-day, that they
+might hear Felix play, I think you might also give
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6"> 6</a></span>
+me one day of relaxation from <em>my</em> work." He
+invited me to return to dinner, and I played a great
+deal to him in the evening.</p>
+
+<p>My three Welsh pieces, dedicated to three English
+sisters, have great success here;<a name="FNanchor_2" id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> and I am
+trying to rub up my English. As I had begged
+Goethe to address me as <em>thou</em>, he desired Ottilie to
+say to me on the following day, in that case I must
+remain longer than the two days I had fixed, otherwise
+he could not regain the more familiar habit I
+wished. He repeated this to me himself, saying that
+he did not think I should lose much by staying a
+little longer, and invited me always to dine with
+him when I had no other engagement. I have consequently
+been with him every day, and yesterday I
+told him a great deal about Scotland, and Hengstenberg,
+and Spontini, and Hegel's 'Æsthetics.'<a name="FNanchor_3" id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> He
+sent me to Tiefurth with the ladies, but prohibited
+my driving to Berka, because a very pretty girl lived
+there, and he did not wish to plunge me into misery.</p>
+
+<p>I thought to myself, this was indeed the Goethe
+of whom people will one day say, that he was not
+one single individual, but consisted of several little
+<em>Goethiden</em>. I am to play over to him to-day various
+pieces of Bach, Haydn, and Mozart, and thus lead
+him on, as he said, to the present day
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7"> 7</a></span>
+I should indeed have been very foolish to have
+regretted my delay; besides, I am a conscientious
+traveller, and have seen the Library, and 'Iphigenia
+in Aulis.' Hummel has struck out all the octaves,
+etc.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Weimar, May 25th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>I have just received your welcome letter, written
+on Ascension Day. I cannot help myself, but must
+still write to you from this place. I will soon send
+you, dear Fanny, a copy of my symphony; I am
+having it written out here, and mean to forward it
+to Leipzig (where perhaps it will be performed),
+with strict orders to deliver it into your own hands,
+as soon as possible. Try to collect opinions as to
+the title I ought to select; Reformation Symphony,
+Confession Symphony, Symphony for a Church Festival,
+Juvenile Symphony, or whatever you like.
+Write to me on this subject, and instead of a number
+of stupid suggestions, send me one clever one;
+still, I should rather like to hear some of the
+nonsensical ones sure to be devised on the occasion.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday evening I was at a party at Goethe's,
+and played alone the whole evening,&mdash;the Concert-Stück,
+the Invitation à la Valse, and Weber's Polonaise
+in C, my three Welsh pieces, and my Scotch
+Sonata. It was over by ten o'clock, but I of course
+stayed till twelve o'clock, when we had all sorts of
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"> 8</a></span>
+fun, dancing and singing; so you see I lead a most
+jovial life here. The old gentleman goes to his
+room regularly at nine o'clock, and as soon as he is
+gone, we begin our frolics, and never separate
+before midnight.</p>
+
+<p>To-morrow my portrait is to be finished; a large
+black-crayon sketch, and very like; but I look
+rather sulky. Goethe is so friendly and kind to me,
+that I don't know how to thank him sufficiently, or
+what to do to deserve it. In the forenoon he likes
+me to play to him the compositions of the various
+great masters, in chronological order, for an hour,
+and also tell him the progress they have made,
+while he sits in a dark corner, like a <em>Jupiter tonans</em>,
+his old eyes flashing on me. He did not wish to
+hear anything of Beethoven's, but I told him that
+I could not let him off, and played the first part of
+the Symphony in C minor. It seemed to have a
+singular effect on him; at first he said, "This
+causes no emotion, nothing but astonishment: it is
+<em>grandios</em>." He continued grumbling in this way,
+and after a long pause he began again,&mdash;"It is very
+grand, very wild; it makes one fear that the house
+is about to fall down; and what must it be when
+played by a number of men together!" During
+dinner, in the midst of another subject, he alluded
+to it again. You know that I dine with him every
+day, when he questions me very minutely, and is
+always so gay and communicative after dinner, that
+we generally remain together alone for an hour
+while he speaks on uninterruptedly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9"> 9</a></span>
+I have no greater pleasure than when he brings
+out engravings, and explains them to me, or gives
+his opinion of Ernani, or Lamartine's Elegies, or
+the theatre, or pretty girls. He has several times
+lately invited people, which he rarely does now,
+so that most of the guests had not seen him
+for a long time. I then play a great deal, and he
+compliments me before all these people, and "<em>ganz
+stupend</em>" is his favourite expression. To-day he
+has invited a number of Weimar beauties on my
+account, because he thinks that I ought to enjoy
+the society of young people. If I go up to him on
+such occasions, he says, "My young friend, you
+must join the ladies, and make yourself agreeable
+to them." I am not however devoid of tact, so I
+contrived to have him asked yesterday whether I
+did not come too often; but he growled out to
+Ottilie, who put the question to him, that "he must
+now begin to speak to me in good earnest, for I had
+such clear ideas, that he hoped to <em>learn much from
+me</em>." I became twice as tall in my own estimation,
+when Ottilie repeated this to me. He said so to
+me himself yesterday; and when he declared that
+there were many subjects he had at heart that I
+must explain to him, I <em>said</em>, "Oh, certainly!" but
+I <em>thought</em>, "This is an honour I can never forget,"&mdash;often
+it is the very reverse.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"> 10</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Munich, June 6th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>It is a long time since I have written to you, and
+I fear you may have been anxious on my account.
+You must not be angry with me, for it was really
+no fault of mine, and I have been not a little annoyed
+about it. I expedited my journey as well as
+I could, inquiring everywhere about diligences, and
+invariably receiving false information. I travelled
+through one night on purpose to enable me to
+write to you by this day's post, of which I was told
+at Nürnberg; and when at last I arrive, I find that
+no post leaves here to-day: it is enough to drive
+one wild, and I feel out of all patience with Germany
+and her petty Principalities, her different
+kinds of money, her diligences, which require an
+hour and a quarter for a German mile, and her
+Thuringian forests, where there is incessant rain
+and wind,&mdash;nay, even with her 'Fidelio' this very
+evening, for, though dead beat, I must do my duty
+by going to see it, when I would far rather go to bed.
+Pray do not be angry with me, or scold me for my
+delay in writing; I do assure you that this very
+night while I was travelling, I thought I saw peeping
+through the clouds the shadow of your threatening
+finger; but I shall now proceed to explain
+why I could not write sooner.</p>
+
+<p>Some days after my last letter from Weimar, I
+wished, as I told you, to set off for this place, and
+said so during dinner to Goethe, who made no
+reply. After dinner however he withdrew with
+Ottilie into the recess of a window, and said, "You
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11"> 11</a></span>
+must persuade him to remain." She endeavoured to
+prevail on me to do so, and walked up and down in
+the garden with me. I wished however to show
+that I was a man of determination, so I remained
+steady to my resolve. Then came the old gentleman
+himself, and said he saw no use in my being in
+such a hurry; that he had still a great deal to tell
+me, and I had still a great deal to play to him; and
+what I had told him as to the object of my journey,
+was really all nonsense,&mdash;Weimar was my present object,&mdash;and
+he could not see that I was likely to find
+in <em>tables-d'hôte</em> elsewhere, what I could not obtain
+here: I would see plenty of hotels in my travels.
+He talked on in this style, which touched my heart,
+especially as Ottilie and Ulrike added their persuasions,
+assuring me that the old gentleman much
+more often insisted on people going away, than on
+their remaining; and as no one can be so sure of
+enjoying a number of happy days, that he can
+afford to throw away those that cannot fail to be
+pleasant, and as they promised to go with me to
+Jena, I resolved <em>not</em> to be a man of determination,
+and agreed to stay.</p>
+
+<p>Seldom in the course of my life have I so little
+regretted any resolution as on this occasion, for the
+following day was by far the most delightful that I
+ever passed in Goethe's house. After an early
+drive, I found old Goethe very cheerful; he began
+to converse on various subjects, passing from the
+'Muette de Portici' to Walter Scott, and thence to
+the beauties in Weimar; to the 'Students,' and the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12"> 12</a></span>
+'Robbers,' and so on to Schiller; then he spoke on
+uninterruptedly for more than an hour, with the
+utmost animation, about Schiller's life and writings,
+and his position in Weimar. He proceeded to
+speak of the late Grand-Duke, and of the year 1775,
+which he designated as the intellectual spring of
+Germany, declaring that no man living could describe
+it so well as he could; indeed, it had been
+his intention to have devoted the second volume of
+his life to this subject; but what with botany, and
+meteorology, and other stuff of the same kind, for
+which no one cared a straw, he had not yet been
+able to fulfil his purpose. He proceeded to relate
+various anecdotes of the time when he was director
+of the theatre, and when I wished to thank him, he
+said, "It is mere chance, it all comes to light
+incidentally,&mdash;called forth by your welcome presence."
+These words sounded marvellously pleasant
+to me; in short, it was one of those conversations
+that a man can never forget so long as he lives.
+Next day he made me a present of a sheet of the
+manuscript of 'Faust,' and at the bottom of the
+page he wrote, "To my dear young friend F. M. B.,
+mighty, yet delicate master of the piano&mdash;a friendly
+souvenir of happy May days in 1830. J. W. von
+Goethe." He also gave me three letters of introduction
+to take with me.</p>
+
+<p>If that relentless 'Fidelio' did not begin at so
+early an hour. I could tell you much more, but as it
+is, I have only time to detail my farewell interview
+with the old gentleman. At the very beginning of
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13"> 13</a></span>
+my visit to Weimar, I spoke of a print taken from
+Adrian von Ostade, of a peasant family praying,
+which nine years ago made a deep impression on
+me. When I went at an early hour to take leave of
+Goethe, I found him seated beside a large portfolio,
+and he said, "So you are actually going away? I
+must try to keep all right till you return; but at all
+events we won't part now without some pious
+feelings, so let us once more look at the praying
+family together." He told me that I must sometimes
+write to him&mdash;(courage! courage! I mean to
+do so from this very place), and then he embraced
+me, and we drove off to Jena, where the Frommans
+received me with much kindness, and where the
+same evening I took leave of Ottilie and Ulrike,
+and came on here.</p>
+
+<p><em>Nine o'clock.</em>&mdash;'Fidelio' is over; and while waiting
+for supper I add a few words.</p>
+
+<p>Schechner is very much gone off; the quality of
+her voice has become husky; she repeatedly sang
+flat, yet there were moments when her expression
+was so touching, that I wept in my own fashion; all
+the others were bad, and there was also much to
+censure in the performance. Still, there is great
+talent in the orchestra, and the style in which they
+played the overture was very good. Certainly our
+Germany is a strange land; producing great people,
+but not appreciating them; possessing many fine
+singers and intellectual artists, but none sufficiently
+modest and subordinate to render their parts faithfully,
+and without false pretension. Marzeline introduces
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14"> 14</a></span>
+all sorts of flourishes into her part; Jaquino
+is a blockhead; the minister a simpleton: and when a
+German like Beethoven writes an opera, then comes
+a German like Stuntz or Poissl (or whoever it may
+have been) and strikes out the ritournelle, and
+similar unnecessary passages; another German adds
+a trombone part to his symphonies; a third declares
+that Beethoven is overloaded: and thus is a great
+man sacrificed.</p>
+
+<p>Farewell! be happy and merry; and may all my
+heartfelt wishes for you be fulfilled.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<p class="smcap">To Fanny Hensel.</p>
+
+<h3>Munich, June 14th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>My dearest Sister,</p>
+
+<p>I received your letter of the 5th this morning; I
+see from it that you are not yet quite well. I wish
+I were with you, and could see you, and talk to
+you; but this is impossible, so I have written a
+song for you expressive of my wishes and thoughts.
+You were in my mind when I composed it, and
+I was in a tender mood. There is indeed nothing
+very new in it. You know me well, and what I am;
+in no respect am I changed, so you may smile at
+this and rejoice. I could say and wish many other
+things for you, but none better; and this letter too
+shall contain nothing else. You know that I am
+always your own; and may it please God to bestow
+on you all that I hope and pray.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15"> 15</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/033.jpg" width="300" height="494" alt="music033"  />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16"> 16</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/034.jpg" width="300" height="486" alt="music034" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"> 17</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/035.jpg" width="300" height="288" alt="music035" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/033.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Linz, August 11th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>Dearest Mother,</p>
+
+<p>"How a travelling musician bore his bad luck in
+Salzburg." A fragment from the unwritten journal
+of Count F. M. B. (continuation.) After I had
+finished my last letter to you, a regular day of misfortunes
+commenced for me. I took up my pencil,
+and so entirely destroyed two of my pet sketches,
+taken in the Bavarian mountains, that I was obliged
+to tear them from my book, and to throw them out
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"> 18</a></span>
+of the window. This provoked me exceedingly; so
+to divert my mind, I went to the Capuchin Hill: of
+course I contrived to lose my way, and at the very
+moment, when I at last found myself on the summit,
+it began to rain so furiously that I was forced to
+run down again with all speed under the shelter of
+an umbrella. Well! I resolved at all events to
+have a look at the monastery at the foot of the
+hill, so I rang the bell, when I suddenly recollected
+that I had not sufficient money to give the monk
+who was to show the building, and as this is a kind
+of thing that they take highly amiss, I hurried away
+without waiting till the porter appeared.</p>
+
+<p>I then closed my packet of letters for Leipzig,
+and took it myself to the post, but there I was told,
+that it must first be examined at the Custom-house;
+so thither I went. They kept me waiting a whole
+hour, till they composed a certificate of three lines,
+and behaved so saucily that I was forced to quarrel
+with them. Hang Salzburg! thought I; so I
+ordered horses for Ischl, where I hoped to escape
+from all my bad luck. No horses were to be had
+without a permission from the police. I went to
+the police office. "No permission can be granted
+till you bring your passport." Why pursue the
+subject? After innumerable delays, and running
+about hither and thither, the wished-for post-carriage
+arrived. My dinner was over, my luggage
+ready, and I thought that at last all was in good
+train: my bill and the servants fees were paid.</p>
+
+<p>Just as I reached the door, I saw two handsome
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"> 19</a></span>
+open carriages approaching at a foot's pace, and the
+people of the inn hurrying to receive the travellers,
+who were following on foot. I however paid no
+attention to the new arrivals, but jumped into my
+carriage. I observed, that at the same moment,
+one of the travelling carriages drew up close to
+mine, and that a lady was seated in it,&mdash;but what a
+lady! That you may not instantly jump to the
+conclusion that I had suddenly fallen in love, which
+would have been the crowning point of my unlucky
+day, I must tell you that she was an elderly lady;
+but she looked very amiable and benevolent; she
+wore a black dress, and a massive gold chain, and
+smiled good-humouredly when she paid the postilion
+his fare. Heaven knows why I continued to arrange
+my luggage instead of driving off. I did look
+across continually at the other carriage, and though
+the lady was an entire stranger to me I felt a strong
+inclination to address her. It might be mere imagination
+on my part, but I do think that she too looked
+at the dusty traveller in his student's cap. At
+length she got out of the carriage, and stood close
+to the door of my vehicle, leaning her hand on it,
+and I required all my knowledge of the common
+proprieties of travelling, not to get out myself and
+say to her, "Dear lady, what may your name be?"
+Routine however conquered, and I called out with
+an air of dignity, "Postilion! go on!" on which the
+lady quickly withdrew her hand, and we set off. I
+felt in no very pleasant humour, and while thinking
+over the events of the day, I fell asleep.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"> 20</a></span>
+A carriage with two gentlemen passing us, woke
+me up, and the following dialogue ensued between
+the postilion and myself. <em>I.</em> These gentlemen are
+coming from Ischl, so I shall probably find no
+horses there. <em>He.</em> Oh! the two carriages that
+stopped at the Inn were also from Ischl; still there
+is no doubt you will get horses. <em>I.</em> Are you sure
+they came from Ischl? <em>He.</em> Quite sure: they go
+there every year, and were here last summer also;
+I drove them. It is a baroness from Vienna,
+(Heavens! thought I,) and she is dreadfully rich, and
+has such handsome daughters. When they went to
+Berchtesgaden to visit the mines, I drove them, and
+very nice they looked in their miner's dresses: they
+have a grand estate, and yet they speak to us quite
+familiarly. Halt! cried I; what name?&mdash;Don't
+know.&mdash;Pereira?<a name="FNanchor_4" id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>&mdash;Not sure.&mdash;Drive back,&mdash;said I
+in a resolute tone.&mdash;If I do, we shall not reach Ischl
+to-night, and we have got over the worst hill; you
+can learn the name at the next stage.&mdash;I hesitated,
+and we drove on. They did not know the name at
+the next stage, nor at the following one either. At
+length, at the end of seven long wearisome hours,
+we arrived, and before I left the carriage, I said,
+who were the party who drove to Salzburg this
+morning in two carriages? and received the quiet
+reply,&mdash;Baroness Pereira; she proceeds to Gastein
+early to-morrow morning, but returns four or five
+days hence. Now I had arrived at a certainty, and I
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"> 21</a></span>
+also spoke to her driver, who said that none of the
+family were here. The two gentlemen I met in a carriage
+on the road, were sons of the Baroness (the
+very two I had never seen). In addition to all this, I
+remembered a wretched portrait that I had once
+got a glimpse of at our aunt H&mdash;&mdash;'s, and the lady
+in the black dress was Baroness Pereira! Heaven
+knows when I may have another opportunity of
+seeing her! I do not think that she ever could
+have made a more pleasing impression on me, and
+I shall not assuredly soon forget her attractive
+appearance, and her kind expression of countenance.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing is more unsatisfactory than a presentiment;
+we all experience them, but we never
+discover till too late, that they really were presentiments.
+I would have returned then and there,
+and travelled through the night, but I reflected that
+I should only overtake her at the very moment of
+her departure, or that possibly she might have left
+Salzburg before my arrival, and that I should thus
+frustrate all the plan of my journey to Vienna. At
+one moment I thought of going to Gastein, but I
+could not help feeling that Salzburg had treated
+me very badly, so I once more said adieu, and went
+to bed very crest-fallen. Next morning I desired
+that her empty house should be pointed out to me,
+and made a sketch of it for you, dear mother. My
+bad luck, however, was still growling in the distance,
+for I could find no favourable spot to take
+my sketch from. Besides, they charged me more
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"> 22</a></span>
+than a ducat at the inn for one night's entertainment,
+etc., etc. I gave utterance to various anathemas,
+both in English and German, and drove
+away, laying aside among the things of the past,
+Ischl, Salzburg, Baroness Pereira, and the Traunsee;
+and so I came on here, where I have taken a day's
+rest.</p>
+
+<p>To-morrow I intend to pursue my journey, and
+(D. V.) to sleep in Vienna the day after. I will
+write to you further from thence. Thus ended my
+day of misfortunes; "truth, and <em>no</em> poetry," not
+even the leaning the hand against the door of my
+carriage is invention; all is a portrait taken from
+life. The most incomprehensible thing is that I
+should have totally overlooked Flora, who it seems
+was also there, for the old lady in a tartan cloak,
+who went into the inn, was Frau von W&mdash;&mdash;, and
+the old gentleman with green spectacles who followed
+her, could not well have been Flora? In
+short, when things once take a wrong turn, they
+will have their course. I can write no more to-day,
+for my disappointment is still too recent; in my
+next letter I will describe the Salzkammergut, and
+all the beauties of my journey yesterday. How
+right Devrient was to advise me to take this route!
+The Traunstein also, and the Traun Falls, are wonderfully
+fine; and after all, the world is a very
+pleasant world, and it is fortunate for me that you
+are in it, and that I shall find letters from you the
+day after to-morrow, and possibly much that is
+agreeable besides. Dear Fanny, I mean now to
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"> 23</a></span>
+compose my <em>Non nobis</em>, and the symphony in A
+minor. Dear Rebecca, if you could hear me singing
+"Im warmen Thal" in a spasmodic fashion, you
+would think it rather deplorable; you could sing it
+better. Oh, Paul! can you declare that you understand
+the Schein Gulden, W. W. Gulden, heavy
+Gulden, light Gulden, Conventions Gulden, and the
+devil and his grandmother's Gulden? I don't, one
+bit. I wish therefore that you were with me, but
+for many reasons besides this one. Farewell!</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Presburg, September 27th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Brother,</p>
+
+<p>Peals of bells, drums and music, carriages on carriages,
+people hurrying in all directions, everywhere
+gay crowds, such is the general aspect around me,
+for to-morrow is to be the coronation of the King,
+which the whole city has been expecting since
+yesterday, and are now imploring that the sky may
+clear up, and wake bright and cheerful, for the
+grand ceremony which ought to have taken place
+yesterday was obliged to be deferred on account of
+the torrents of rain. This afternoon the sky is blue
+and beautiful, and the moon is now shining down
+tranquilly on the tumult of the city. To-morrow at
+a very early hour the Crown Prince is to take his
+oaths (as King of Hungary) in the large Market-place;
+he is then to go to church in grand procession,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"> 24</a></span>
+attended by a whole array of bishops and
+nobles of the realm, and afterwards rides up the
+Königsberg, which lies opposite my windows, in
+order to wave his sword towards the banks of the
+Danube and the four quarters of the globe, in token
+that he takes possession of his new realm.</p>
+
+<p>This excursion has made me acquainted with a
+new country; for Hungary with her magnates, her
+high dignitaries, her Oriental luxury, and also her
+barbarism, is to be seen here, and the streets offer a
+spectacle which is to me both novel and striking.
+We really seem here to approach closer to the East;
+the miserably obtuse peasants or serfs; the troops
+of gipsies; the equipages and retainers of the
+nobles overloaded with gold and gems, (for the
+grandees themselves are only visible through the
+closed windows of their carriages); then the singularly
+bold national physiognomy, the yellow hue,
+the long moustaches, the soft foreign idiom&mdash;all
+this makes the most motley impression in the world.</p>
+
+<p>Early yesterday I went alone through the streets.
+First came a long array of jovial officers, on spirited
+little horses; behind them a crew of gipsies, making
+music; succeeded by Vienna fashionables, with eye-glasses
+and kid gloves, conversing with a Capuchin
+monk; then a couple of uncivilized peasants in
+long white coats, their hats pressed down on their
+foreheads, and their straight black hair cut even all
+round, (they have reddish-brown complexions, a
+languid gait, and an indescribable expression of
+savage stupidity and indifference); then came a
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"> 25</a></span>
+couple of sharp, acute-looking students of theology,
+in their long blue coats, walking arm-in-arm; Hungarian
+proprietors in their dark blue national
+costume; court servants; and numbers of carriages
+every moment arriving, covered with mud. I followed
+the crowd as they slowly moved on up the hill,
+and so at last I arrived at the dilapidated castle,
+which commands an extensive view of the whole
+city and the Danube. People were looking down
+on all sides from the ancient white walls, and from
+the towers and balconies; in every corner boys
+were scribbling their names on the walls for the
+benefit of posterity; in a small chamber (perhaps
+once on a time a chapel, or a sleeping-apartment)
+an ox was in the act of being roasted whole, and as
+it turned on the spit, the people shouted with delight;
+a succession of cannons bristled before the
+castle, destined to bellow forth their appropriate
+thunders at the coronation.</p>
+
+<p>Below, on the Danube, which runs very rapidly
+here, darting with the speed of an arrow through
+the pontoon bridge, lay a new steamer, that had
+just arrived, laden with strangers; then the extensive
+view of the flat but wooded country, and
+meadows overflowed by the Danube; of the embankments
+and streets swarming with human beings,
+and mountains clothed with Hungarian vines&mdash;all
+this was not a little strange and foreign. Then the
+pleasant contrast of living in the same house with
+the best and most friendly people in the world, and
+finding novelty doubly interesting in their society.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"> 26</a></span>
+These were really among the happy days, dear
+brother, that a kind Providence so often and so
+richly bestows on me.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>September 28th, one o'clock.</h3>
+
+<p>The King is crowned&mdash;the ceremony was wonderfully
+fine. How can I even try to describe it to
+you? An hour hence we will all drive back to
+Vienna, and thence I pursue my journey. There is
+a tremendous uproar under my windows, and the
+Burgher-guards are flocking together, but only for
+the purpose of shouting "<em>Vivat!</em>" I pushed my
+way through the crowd, while our ladies saw everything
+from the windows, and never can I forget the
+effect of all this brilliant and almost fabulous magnificence.</p>
+
+<p>In the great square of the Hospitallers the people
+were closely packed together, for there the oaths
+were to be taken on a platform hung with cloth;
+and afterwards the people were to be allowed the
+privilege of tearing down the cloth for their own
+use; close by was a fountain spouting red and
+white Hungarian wine. The grenadiers could not
+keep back the people; one unlucky hackney coach
+that stopped for a moment was instantly covered
+with men, who clambered on the spokes of the
+wheels, and on the roof, and on the box, swarming
+on it like ants, so that the coachman, unable to
+drive on without becoming a murderer, was forced
+to wait quietly where he was. When the procession
+arrived, which was received bare-headed, I had the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"> 27</a></span>
+utmost difficulty in taking off my hat, and holding
+it above my head; an old Hungarian, however,
+behind me, whose view it intercepted, quickly devised
+a remedy, for without ceremony he made a
+snatch at my unlucky hat, and in an instant flattened
+it to the size of a cap; then they yelled as if
+they had all been spitted, and fought for the cloth; in
+short they were a mob; but my Magyars! the
+fellows look as if they were born noblemen, and
+privileged to live at ease, looking very melancholy,
+but riding like the devil.</p>
+
+<p>When the procession descended the hill, first
+came the court servants, covered with embroidery,
+the trumpeters and kettle drums, the heralds and all
+that class, and then suddenly galloped along the
+street a mad Count, <em>en pleine carrière</em>, his horse
+plunging and capering, and the caparisons edged
+with gold; the Count himself a mass of diamonds,
+rare herons' plumes, and velvet embroidery (though
+he had not yet assumed his state uniform, being
+bound to ride so madly&mdash;Count Sandor is the name
+of this furious cavalier.) He had an ivory sceptre
+in his hand with which he urged on his horse,
+causing it each time to rear, and to make a tremendous
+bound forward.</p>
+
+<p>When his wild career was over, a procession of
+about sixty more magnates arrived, all in the same
+fantastic splendour, with handsome coloured turbans,
+twisted moustaches, and dark eyes. One rode
+a white horse covered with a gold net; another a
+dark grey, the bridle and housings studded with
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"> 28</a></span>
+diamonds; then came a black charger with purple
+cloth caparisons. One magnate was attired from
+head to foot in sky blue, thickly embroidered with
+gold, a white turban, and a long white dolman;
+another in cloth of gold, with a purple dolman;
+each one more rich and gaudy than the other, and
+all riding so boldly and fearlessly, and with such
+defiant gallantry, that it was quite a pleasure to
+look at them. At length came the Hungarian
+Guards, with Esterhazy at their head, dazzling in
+gems and pearl embroidery. How can I describe
+the scene? You ought to have seen the procession
+deploy and halt in the spacious square, and all the
+jewels and bright colours, and the lofty golden
+mitres of the bishops, and the crucifixes glittering
+in the brilliant sunshine like a thousand stars!</p>
+
+<p>Well, to-morrow, God willing, I proceed on my
+journey. Now, dear brother, you have a letter, so
+pray write soon, and let me hear how you are getting
+on. So you have had an <em>émeute</em> in Berlin?
+and that, too, an <em>émeute</em> of tailors' apprentices?
+What did it all mean? Once more I send you my
+farewell from Germany, my dear parents, and
+brother and sisters. I am leaving Hungary for
+Italy, and thence I hope to write to you more frequently
+and more at leisure. Be of good cheer,
+dear Paul, and go forwards in a confident spirit;
+rejoice with those that rejoice, and do not forget
+the brother who is wandering about the world.</p>
+
+<p class="right">Yours, <span class="smcap">Felix</span>.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"> 29</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Venice, October 10th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>Italy at last! and what I have all my life considered
+as the greatest possible felicity, is now begun,
+and I am basking in it. The day has been so fruitful
+in enjoyment, that I must, now that it is evening,
+endeavour to collect my thoughts a little to write to
+you, my dear parents, and to thank you for having
+bestowed such happiness on me. You also, my
+dear brother and sisters, are often in my thoughts.
+How much I wish for you, Paul, to be with me here,
+once more to enjoy your delight in our rapid travels
+by sea and by land; and I should like to prove to
+you, Hensel, that the "Assumption of the Blessed
+Virgin" is the most divine work ever produced by
+the hands of man. You are not here, however, so
+I am obliged to give vent to my enthusiasm in bad
+Italian to the <em>laquais de place</em>, who stands still and
+listens.</p>
+
+<p>I shall however become quite confused, if things
+are to go on as they have done on this first day,
+when every hour brought with it so much never to
+be forgotten, that I do not know where to find sufficient
+grasp of intellect to comprehend it all properly.
+I saw the "Assumption," then a whole
+gallery of paintings in the Manfrini Palace; then
+a church festival in the church where hangs Titian's
+St. Peter; afterwards St. Mark's, and in the afternoon
+I had a row on the Adriatic, and visited the
+public gardens, where the people lie on the grass
+and eat. I then returned to the Piazza of St.
+Mark, where in the twilight there is always an immense
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"> 30</a></span>
+crowd and crush of people; and all this I
+was obliged to see to-day, because there is so much
+that is novel and interesting to be seen to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>But I must now relate methodically how I came
+hither by water, (for, as Telemachus says, to do so
+by land would be no easy matter,) and so I begin
+my history at Gratz, which is certainly the most
+tiresome hole in the world, and where you yawn all
+day; and why should I have stayed a single day
+longer, on account of a (he) relation? How can a
+traveller with any experience possibly accept of a
+brother, who is also an ensign, in the place of a
+charming mother and sister? In short, the man did
+not know what to do with me, for which I forgive
+him freely, and shall not defame him to his mother,
+when I perform my promise and write to her; but
+he took me to the theatre to see the "Rehbock,"
+the most wretched, silly, objectionable piece that
+the late Kotzebue ever wrote; and moreover he
+declared it to be very good and very amusing, and
+this is not to be forgiven, for this <em>Rehbock</em> has such
+a <em>haut goût</em> or <em>fumet</em>, that it could not even please
+a cat: but at all events I have left Gratz, for here
+I am in Venice.</p>
+
+<p>My old vetturino woke me up at four o'clock in
+the dark, and the horse crawled off with us both.
+I thought of you, dear father, at least a hundred
+times during our journey of two days. You would
+certainly have gone wild with impatience, and possibly
+assaulted the coachman also, for at every
+little declivity, he got slowly off the box, deliberately
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"> 31</a></span>
+put on the drag, and crept up the smallest
+hill at a snail's pace; then he thought fit to walk
+beside his horses for a time, to stretch his legs:
+every possible conveyance passed us on the road,
+even when drawn by dogs or donkeys, and when at
+last, at a steep hill, the fellow put on two oxen as
+leaders, whose pace exactly corresponded with that
+of his horse, I had the greatest difficulty in not
+belabouring him, indeed I did so more than once;
+but he then gravely assured me that we were going
+at a capital pace, and I had no means of proving
+the contrary. Moreover he always passed the night
+in the most detestable pot-houses, starting again at
+four o'clock in the morning, so on arriving at
+Klagenfurt I was fairly worn out; but when in
+answer to my question as to the time the Venetian
+diligence set out, I received the answer,&mdash;in an hour
+hence,&mdash;I seemed to revive. I was promised a place,
+and I also got a good supper. The diligence,
+indeed, did not arrive for two hours after its time,
+having been detained by deep snow on the Sömmering,
+but still it came at last. Three Italians were
+inside, and chattered so that I could scarcely get
+to sleep, but my snoring fairly silenced them after
+a time.</p>
+
+<p>At last morning broke, and as we drove into Resciutta,
+the driver said, that on the other side of the
+bridge there, no one understood a word of German. I
+therefore took leave of my mother tongue for a long
+time to come, and we drove over the bridge. The
+style of the houses immediately beyond was entirely
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32"> 32</a></span>
+different. The flat roofs with their convex tiles, the
+deep windows, the high white walls, and lofty square
+towers, all betokened another land. The pale olive
+faces of the men, the innumerable beggars who besieged
+the carriage, the various small chapels,
+brightly and carefully painted on every side with
+flowers, the nuns, monks, and so forth, were all
+symptomatic of Italy. The monotonous character
+of the whole scenery however, and of the road we
+were travelling, passing through bare white rocks,
+along the banks of a river with a rough rocky bed,
+in summer creeping along in the form of a tiny
+brook, certainly does not seem characteristic of
+Italy. "I purposely made this passage rather
+meagre, in order that the <em>subject</em> might be more
+distinctly heard," says Abt Vogler; and I almost
+think that Providence has done pretty much the
+same here, for when we had passed Ospedaletto the
+<em>subject</em> did come out well, and a fine sight it was. I
+had imagined that the first impression of Italy would
+be like that of a sudden explosion, violent and startling;
+I have not hitherto found this to be the case.
+The effect produced on me has been rather that of
+a genial warmth, mildness and cheerfulness, and an
+indescribable sensation of pervading content and
+satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p>After passing Ospedaletto we entered a plain,
+leaving the blue mountains behind us; the sun shone
+bright and warm through the foliage of the vines;
+the road winding through orchards, in which the
+trees were connected by trailing boughs. I felt as
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33"> 33</a></span>
+if I were at home again, and knew every object, and
+was once more about to take possession of it all.
+The carriage too seemed to <em>fly</em> over the smooth
+road, and towards evening we arrived at Udine,
+where we passed the night, when for the first time
+I ordered my supper in Italian, my tongue skating
+as if on slippery ice, first gliding into English, and
+then stumbling afresh. Moreover next morning I
+was famously cheated, but I did not in the least
+care, and on we went. It happened to be Sunday,
+and on every side people were coming along, in
+bright southern costumes, and flowers; the women
+with roses in their hair. Light single-horse carriages
+drove past, and men were riding to church
+on donkeys; at the inns, groups of idlers were to
+be seen in the most picturesque, indolent attitudes:
+among others, one man placed his arm quietly
+round his wife's waist, and swung round with her
+and then they went on their way; this sounds trivial
+enough, and yet it had a pretty effect. Venetian
+villas now were occasionally visible from the road,
+and by degrees became more frequent, till at length
+our way led past houses, trees, and gardens like a
+park. The whole country had a gay festive air,
+as if a Prince were expected to make his grand
+entry, and the vine-branches with their rich purple
+grapes hanging in festoons from the trees, made
+the most lovely of all festive wreaths. The inhabitants
+were all gaily dressed and adorned, and a few
+scattered cypresses only enhanced the general
+effect.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34"> 34</a></span>
+In Treviso there was an illumination, paper
+lanterns suspended in every part of the great
+square, and a large gaudy transparency in the
+centre. Some most lovely girls were walking about,
+in their long white veils and scarlet petticoats. It
+was quite dark when we arrived at Mestre last
+night, when we got into a boat, and in a dead calm,
+gently rowed across to Venice. On our passage
+thither, where nothing but water is to be seen, and
+distant lights, we saw a small rock which stands in
+the midst of the sea; on this a lamp was burning;
+all the sailors took off their hats as we passed, and
+one of them said, this was the "Madonna of Tempests,"
+which are often most dangerous and violent
+here. We then glided quietly into the great city,
+under innumerable bridges, without sound of post-horns,
+or rattling of wheels, or toll-keepers; the
+passage now became more thronged, and numbers
+of ships were lying near; past the theatre, where
+gondolas in long rows lie waiting for their masters,
+just as our own carriages do at home, then into the
+great canal, past the church of St. Mark, the Lions,
+the palace of the Doges, and the Bridge of Sighs.
+The obscurity of night only enhanced my delight
+on hearing the familiar names, and seeing the dark
+outlines.</p>
+
+<p>And so I am actually in Venice! Well, to-day I
+have seen the finest pictures in the world, and have
+at last personally made the acquaintance of a very
+admirable man, whom hitherto I only knew by name&mdash;I
+allude to a certain Signor Giorgione, an inimitable
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35"> 35</a></span>
+artist&mdash;and also to Pordenone, who paints the
+most noble portraits, both of himself and many of
+his simple scholars, in such a devout, faithful, and
+pious spirit, that you seem to converse with him,
+and to feel an affection for him. Who would not
+have been confused by all this? But if I am to
+speak of Titian, I must do so in a more reverent
+mood. Till now, I never knew that he was the felicitous
+artist I have this day seen him to be. That
+he thoroughly enjoyed life, in all its beauty and fulness,
+the picture in Paris proves; but he has fathomed
+the depths of human sorrow, as well as the joys of
+Heaven. His glorious "Entombment," and also
+the "Assumption," fully evince this. How Mary
+floats on the cloud, while a waving movement seems
+to pervade the whole picture; how you see at a
+glance her very breathing, her awe, and piety, and
+in short a thousand feelings,&mdash;all words seem poor
+and commonplace in comparison! The three angels
+too, on the right of the picture, are of the highest
+order of beauty,&mdash;pure, serene loveliness, so unconscious,
+so bright and so seraphic. But no more of
+this! or I must perforce become poetical, or indeed
+am so already, and this does not at all suit me; but
+I shall certainly see it every day.</p>
+
+<p>I must however say a few words about the "Entombment,"
+as you have the engraving. Look at it,
+and think of me. This picture represents the conclusion
+of a great tragedy: so still, so grand, and
+so acutely painful. Magdalene is supporting Mary,
+fearing that she will die of anguish; she endeavours
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36"> 36</a></span>
+to lead her away, but looks round herself once more,
+evidently wishing to imprint this spectacle indelibly
+on her heart, thinking that it is for the last time;
+it surpasses everything; and then the sorrowing
+John, who sympathizes and suffers with Mary; and
+Joseph, who absorbed in his piety, and occupied
+with the tomb, directs and conducts the whole; and
+Christ himself, lying there so tranquil, having endured
+to the end: then the blaze of brilliant colour,
+and the gloomy mottled sky! It is a composition
+that speaks to my heart and fills me with enthusiasm,
+and will never leave my memory.</p>
+
+<p>I believe few things I have yet to see in Italy will
+affect me so deeply; but you know that I am devoid
+of all prejudices, and I give you a fresh proof of this
+by telling you that the "Martyrdom of St. Peter,"
+from which I expected the most, pleased me the
+least of the three; it did not strike me as being a
+complete whole; the landscape, which is very fine,
+seemed to me to predominate too much. Then I was
+dissatisfied with the disposition in the picture of <em>two</em>
+victims and only <em>one</em> murderer; (for the small figure
+in the distant background does not remedy this).
+I could not bring myself to consider it a martyrdom.
+But probably I am in error, and I intend to study it
+more carefully to-morrow; my contemplation of it,
+besides, was disturbed by some one strumming most
+sacrilegiously on the organ, and these sacred forms
+were forced to listen to such miserable opera <em>finales</em>!
+But this matters not: where such pictures are, I
+require no organist. I play the organ in my thoughts
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37"> 37</a></span>
+for myself, and feel as little irritated by such trash
+as I should be by an ignorant rabble. Titian, however,
+was a man well adapted to improve others; so
+I shall try to profit by him, and to rejoice that I am
+in Italy. At this moment the gondoliers are shouting
+to each other, and the lights are reflected in the
+depths of the waters; one is playing a guitar, and
+singing to it. It is a charming night. Farewell!
+and think of me in every happy hour as I do of you.</p>
+
+<p class="smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">To Professor Zelter.</span><a name="FNanchor_5" id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p>
+
+<h3>Venice, October 16th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Professor,</p>
+
+<p>I have entered Italy at last, and I intend this
+letter to be the commencement of a regular series
+of reports, which I purpose transmitting to you, of
+all that appears to me particularly worthy of notice.
+Though I only now for the first time write to you, I
+must beg you to impute the blame to the state of
+constant excitement in which I lived, both in Munich
+and in Vienna. It was needless for me to describe to
+you the parties in Munich, which I attended every
+evening, and where I played the piano more unremittingly
+than I ever did in my life before; one <em>soirée</em>
+succeeding another so closely, that I really had
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38"> 38</a></span>
+not a moment to collect my thoughts. Moreover,
+it would not have particularly interested you, for
+after all, "good society which does not offer materials
+for the smallest epigram," is equally vapid in a
+letter. I hope that you have not taken amiss my
+long silence, and that I may expect a few lines from
+you, even if they contain nothing save that you are
+well and cheerful.</p>
+
+<p>The aspect of the world at this moment is very
+bleak and stormy, and much that was once thought
+durable and unchangeable, has been swept away in
+the course of a couple of days. It is then doubly
+welcome to hear well-known voices, to convince us
+that there are certain things which cannot be annihilated
+or demolished, but remain firm and steadfast.
+You must know that I am at this moment
+very uneasy at not having received any news from
+home for some weeks past. I found no letters from
+my family, either at Trieste or here, so a few lines
+from you, written in your old fashion, would both
+cheer and gratify me, especially as it would prove
+that you think of me with the same kindness that
+you have always done from my childhood to the
+present time.</p>
+
+<p>My family have no doubt told you of the exhilarating
+impression made on me by the first sight of the
+plains of Italy. I hurry from one enjoyment to
+another hour by hour, and constantly see something
+novel and fresh; but immediately on my arrival I
+discovered some masterpieces of art, which I study
+with deep attention, and contemplate daily for a
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39"> 39</a></span>
+couple of hours at least. These are three pictures
+by Titian. The "Presentation of Mary as a Child
+in the Temple;" the "Assumption of the Virgin;"
+and the "Entombment of Christ." There is also a
+portrait by Giorgione, representing a girl with a
+cithern in her hand, plunged in thought, and looking
+forth from the picture in serious meditation (she is
+apparently about to begin a song, and you feel as if
+you must do the same): besides many others.</p>
+
+<p>To see these alone would be worth a journey to
+Venice; for the fruitfulness, genius, and devotion
+of the great men who painted these pictures, seem
+to emanate from them afresh as often as you gaze
+at their works, and I do not much regret that I
+have scarcely heard any music here; for I suppose
+I must not venture to include the music of the
+angels, in the "Assumption," encircling Mary with
+joyous shouts of welcome; one gaily beating the
+tambourine, a couple of others blowing away on
+strange crooked flutes, while another charming
+group are singing&mdash;or the music floating in the
+thoughts of the cithern player. I have only once
+heard anything on the organ, and miserable it
+was. I was gazing at Titian's "Martyrdom of St.
+Peter" in the Franciscan Church. Divine service
+was going on, and nothing inspires me with more
+solemn awe than when on the very spot for which
+they were originally created and painted, those
+ancient pictures in all their grandeur, gradually
+steal forth out of the darkness in which the long
+lapse of time has veiled them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40"> 40</a></span>
+As I was earnestly contemplating the enchanting
+evening landscape with its trees, and angels among
+the boughs, the organ commenced. The first sound
+was quite in harmony with my feelings; but the
+second, third, and in fact all the rest, quickly roused
+me from my reveries, and sent me straight home,
+for the man was playing in church and during
+divine service, and in the presence of respectable
+people, thus:</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/058.jpg" width="300" height="251" alt="music058" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/058a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>with the "Martyrdom of St. Peter" actually close
+beside him! I was therefore in no great hurry to
+make the acquaintance of the organist. There is
+no regular Opera here at this moment, and the gondoliers
+no longer sing, Tasso's stanzas; moreover,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41"> 41</a></span>
+what I have hitherto seen of modern Venetian art,
+consists of poems framed and glazed on the subject
+of Titian's pictures, or Rinaldo and Armida,
+by a new Venetian painter, or a St. Cecilia by a
+ditto, besides various specimens of architecture in
+no style at all; as all these are totally insignificant,
+I cling to the ancient masters, and study how they
+worked. Often, after doing so, I feel a musical inspiration,
+and since I came here I have been busily
+engaged in composition.</p>
+
+<p>Before I left Vienna, a friend of mine made me a
+present of Luther's Hymns, and on reading them
+over I was again so much struck by their power, that
+I intend to compose music for several next winter.
+I have nearly completed here the choral "Aus tiefer
+Noth," for four voices <em>a capella</em>; and the Christmas
+hymn, "Vom Himmel hoch," is already in my head.
+I wish also to set the following hymns to music:
+"Ach Gott, vom Himmel sieh darein," "Wir glauben
+all' an einen Gott," "Verleih uns Frieden," "Mitten
+wir im Leben sind," and finally "Ein' feste
+Burg." The latter, however, it is my intention to
+compose for a choir and orchestra. Pray write to
+me about this project of mine, and say whether you
+approve of my retaining the ancient melodies in
+them all, but not adhering to them too strictly:
+for instance, if I were to take the first verse of
+"Vom Himmel hoch" as a separate grand chorus.
+Besides this, I am hard at work at an orchestral
+overture, and if an opportunity for an opera offered
+it would be most welcome.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42"> 42</a></span>
+I finished two pieces of sacred music in Vienna&mdash;a
+choral in three movements for chorus and orchestra
+("O! Haupt voll Blut und Wunden") and
+an Ave Maria for a choir of eight voices, <em>a capella</em>.
+The people I associated with there were so dissipated
+and frivolous, that I became quite spiritually-minded,
+and conducted myself like a divine among
+them. Moreover, not one of the best pianoforte
+players there, male or female, ever played a note of
+Beethoven, and when I hinted that he and Mozart
+were not to be despised, they said, "So you are an
+admirer of classical music?"&mdash;"Yes," said I.</p>
+
+<p>To-morrow I intend to go to Bologna to have a
+glance at the St. Cecilia, and then proceed by
+Florence to Rome, where I hope (D. V.) to arrive
+eight or ten days hence. I will then write to you
+more satisfactorily. I only wished to make a beginning
+to-day, and to beg you not to forget me, and
+kindly to accept my heartfelt wishes for your health
+and happiness.  Your faithful</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Florence, October 23rd, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>Here am I in Florence, the air warm and the sky
+bright; everything is beautiful and glorious, "wo
+blieb die Erde," as Goethe says. I have now received
+your letter of the 3rd, by which I see that
+you are all well, that my anxiety was needless, that
+you are all going on as usual, and thinking of me;
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43"> 43</a></span>
+so I feel happy again, and can now see everything,
+and enjoy everything, and am able to write to you;
+in short, my mind is at rest on the main point. I
+made my journey here amid a thousand doubts and
+fears, quite uncertain whether to go direct to Rome,
+because I did not expect any letters at Florence.
+Fortunately, however, I decided on coming here,
+and now it is of no consequence how the misunderstanding
+arose, that caused me to wait for letters in
+Venice, while you had written to Florence; all I
+can promise is to endeavour in future to be less
+over-anxious. My driver pointed out a spot between
+the hills, on which lay a blue mist, and said
+"<em>Ecco Firenze!</em>" I eagerly looked towards the
+place, and saw the round dome looming out of the
+mist before me, and the spacious wide valley in
+which the city is situated. My love of travel revived
+when at last Florence appeared. I looked at
+some willow-trees (as I thought) beside the road,
+when the driver said, "Buon olio," and then I saw
+that they were hanging full of olives.</p>
+
+<p>My driver, as a genus, is undoubtedly a most villanous
+knave, thief, and impostor; he has cheated me
+and half-starved me, and yet I think him almost
+amiable from his enthusiastic animal nature. About
+an hour before we arrived in Florence he said that
+the beautiful scenery was now about to commence;
+and true it is that the fair land of Italy does first
+begin then. There are villas on every height, and
+decorated old walls, with sloping terraces of roses
+and aloes, flowers and grapes and olive leaves, the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44"> 44</a></span>
+sharp points of cypresses, and the flat tops of pines,
+all sharply defined against the sky; then handsome
+square faces, busy life on the roads on every side,
+and at a distance in the valley, the blue city.</p>
+
+<p>So I drove confidently into Florence in my little
+open carriage, and though I looked shabby and
+dusty, like one coming from the Apennines, I cared
+little for that. I passed recklessly through all
+the smart equipages from which the most refined
+English ladies looked at me; while I thought it may
+one day actually come to pass that you who are now
+looking down on the <em>roturier</em>, may shake hands
+with him, the only difference being a little clean
+linen and so forth. By the time that we came to
+the <em>battisterio</em>, I no longer felt diffident, but gave
+orders to drive to the Post, and then I was really
+happy, for I received three letters,&mdash;yours of the
+22nd and the 3rd, and my father's also. I was now
+quite delighted, and as we drove along beside the
+Arno, to Schneider's celebrated hotel, the world
+seemed once more a very pleasant world.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>October 24th.</h3>
+
+<p>The Apennines are really not so beautiful as I
+had imagined; for the name always suggested to me
+richly wooded, picturesque hills, covered with vegetation,
+whereas they are merely a long chain of
+melancholy bleak hills; and the little verdure there
+is, not gratifying to the eye. There are no dwellings
+to be seen, no merry brooks or rills; only an
+occasional stream, its broad bed dried up, or a little
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45"> 45</a></span>
+water-channel. Add to this the shameful roguery
+of the inhabitants: really, at last, I became quite
+confused and perplexed, by their incessant cheating,
+and could scarcely discover for what object they
+were lying. I therefore, once for all, invariably
+protested against every demand they made, and
+declared that I would not pay at all if they asked
+more than I chose to give; so in this way I managed
+very tolerably.</p>
+
+<p>Last night I was again in grand quarters: I had
+made an agreement with the vetturino for board
+and lodging, and all I required. The natural consequence
+was, that the fellow took me to the most
+detestable little inns, and actually starved me. So
+late yesterday we arrived at a solitary pothouse,
+the filth of which no pen can describe. The stair
+was strewed with heaps of dead leaves and firewood;
+moreover the cold was intense, and they invited me
+to warm myself in the kitchen, which I agreed to
+do. A bench was placed for me beside the fire; a
+whole troop of peasants were standing about, also
+warming themselves. I looked quite regal from my
+bench on the hearth among this rough set of fellows,
+who, in their broad-leaved hats, lit up by the fire, and
+babbling in their incomprehensible dialect, looked
+vastly suspicious characters. I made them prepare
+my soup under my own eyes, giving moreover good
+advice on the subject; but, after all, it was not
+eatable.</p>
+
+<p>I entered into conversation with my subjects
+from my throne on the hearth, and they pointed out
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46"> 46</a></span>
+to me a little hill in the distance incessantly vomiting
+forth flames, which had a singular effect in the
+dark ("Raticosa" is the name of the hill), and then
+I was conducted to my bed-room. The landlord
+took hold of the sackcloth sheets, and said, "Very
+fine linen!" but I slept as sound as a bear, and before
+falling asleep I said to myself, Now you are in
+the Apennines: and next morning, after getting no
+breakfast, my vetturino civilly asked me how I
+liked my night's entertainment. The fellow talked
+a great deal of nonsense about politics, and the
+present state of France, abused his horse in German
+for being born in Switzerland, and spoke French to
+the beggars who swarmed round the cabriolet, while
+I corrected many a fault in his pronunciation.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>October 25th.</h3>
+
+<p>I now intend to go once more to the Tribune, to be
+inspired with feelings of reverence. There is a particular
+place where I like to sit, as the little Venus
+de' Medici is directly opposite, and above, that of
+Titian, and by turning rather to the left, I have a
+view of the Madonna del Cardello, a favourite picture
+of mine, and which invariably reminds me of
+<em>la belle Jardinière</em>, and seems to me a kindred
+creation; and also the Fornarina, which made no
+great impression on me from the first, for I know
+the engraving, which is very faithful, and the face
+has, I think, a most disagreeable and even ordinary
+expression. In gazing thus, however, at the two
+Venuses, their loveliness inspires a feeling of piety;
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"> 47</a></span>
+it is as if the two spirits who could produce such
+creations, were flying through the hall and grasping
+you as they passed.</p>
+
+<p>Titian must have been a marvellous man, and
+enjoyed his life in his works; still the fair Medici
+is not to be slighted, and then the divine Niobe
+with all her children: while we gaze at her, we can
+find no words. I have not yet been to the Pitti
+Palace, which possesses the Saint Ezekiel, and the
+Madonna della Sedia, of Raphael. I saw the gardens
+of the palace yesterday in sunshine; they are
+superb, and the thick solid stems of the myrtles
+and laurels, and the innumerable cypresses, made
+a strange exotic impression on me; but when I
+declare that I consider beeches, limes, oaks, and
+firs, ten times more beautiful and picturesque, I
+think I hear Hensel exclaim, "Oh, the northern
+bear!"</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>October 30th.</h3>
+
+<p>After the soft rain of yesterday, the air is so mild
+and genial, that I am at this moment seated at the
+open window writing to you; and indeed it is
+pleasant enough to see the people going about the
+streets, offering the prettiest baskets of flowers,
+fresh violets, roses, and pinks. Two days ago,
+being satiated with all pictures, statues, vases, and
+museums, I resolved to take a long walk till sunset;
+so after buying a bunch of narcissuses and heliotropes,
+I went up the hill through the vineyards. It
+was one of the most delightful walks I ever remember;
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48"> 48</a></span>
+every one must feel revived and refreshed at the
+sight of nature in such a garb as this, and a thousand
+happy thoughts passed through my mind.</p>
+
+<p>First of all, I went to a villa called Bello
+Sguardo, whence the whole of Florence and its spacious
+valley are to be seen, and I thoroughly enjoyed
+the view of the superb city and its massive towers
+and palaces. But most of all I admired the countless
+villas, covering every hill and every acclivity
+as far as the eye can reach, as if the city extended
+beyond the mountains into the far distance. And
+when I took up a telescope and looked down on the
+valley through the blue mists, every portion of it
+seemed thickly dotted with bright objects and white
+villas, while such a large circle of dwellings inspired
+me with a feeling of home and comfort.</p>
+
+<p>I proceeded far over the hills to the highest point
+I could see, on which stood an ancient tower, and
+when I reached it I found all the people throughout
+the building busily engaged in making wine, drying
+grapes, and repairing casks. It proved to be
+Galileo's tower, from which he used to make his
+discoveries and observations; from here also there
+was a very extensive view, and the girl who took
+me to the roof of the tower related a number of
+stories in her peculiar dialect, which I scarcely
+understood at all; but she afterwards presented me
+with some of her sweet dried grapes, which I ate
+with great gusto. And so I went on to another
+tower I saw at a distance, but could not manage to
+find my way; and examining my map as I went
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49"> 49</a></span>
+along, I stumbled on a traveller busily searching
+his map also; the only difference between us being,
+that he was an old Frenchman with green spectacles,
+who addressed me thus, "È questo S. Miniato al
+Monte, Signor?" With admirable decision I replied,
+"Sì, Signor;" and it turned out that I was
+right. A. F&mdash;&mdash; immediately recurred to my
+memory, as she had advised me to see this monastery,
+which is indeed wonderfully fine.</p>
+
+<p>When I tell you I went from there to the Boboli
+Gardens, where I saw the sun set, and at night
+enjoyed the brightest moonlight, you may imagine
+how much I was invigorated by my ramble. I will
+write to you about the pictures here some other
+time, for to-day it is too late, as I have still to take
+leave of the Pitti Palace and the great Gallery, and
+to gaze once more at my Venus, who is not indeed
+mentioned before ladies, but whose beauty is truly
+divine. The courier goes at five o'clock, and God
+willing, I shall be in Rome the day after to-morrow.
+From thence you shall hear again.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Rome, November 2nd, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>... I refrain from writing longer in this melancholy
+strain; for just as your letter, after a lapse of
+fourteen days, has saddened me, my answer will
+have the same effect on you fourteen days hence.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50"> 50</a></span>
+You would write to me in the same style, and so it
+might go on for ever. As four weeks must pass before
+I can receive any answer, I feel that I ought to
+restrict myself to relating events past and present,
+and not dwell much on the particular frame of my
+mind at the moment, which is indeed usually sufficiently
+manifest in the narrative given, and the
+various occurrences described.</p>
+
+<p>I have scarcely yet arrived at the conviction that
+I am now actually in Rome; and when yesterday,
+just as day was breaking, I drove across a bridge
+with statues, under a deep blue sky, and in dazzling
+white moonlight, and the courier said, "Ponte
+Molle," it all seemed to me like a dream, and at the
+same moment I saw before me my sick-bed in
+London a year ago, and my rough Scotch journey,
+and Munich, and Vienna, and the pines on these
+hills. The journey from Florence to Rome has
+very few attractions. Siena, which is, I understand
+worth seeing, we passed through during the night.
+It was unpleasant to see a regular Government
+courier compelled to take a military escort, which
+was doubled at night; still it must be absolutely
+necessary, as he is obliged to pay for it. In these
+days this ought not to be the case. In the meantime
+everything progresses, and there are moments
+when the bound forwards is actually visible.</p>
+
+<p>I was still in Florence, waiting for the departure
+of the post, reading a French newspaper, when at
+the very moment the bell sounded, I read among
+the advertisements, "Vie de Siebenkäs, par Jean
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51"> 51</a></span>
+Paul." Many reflections occurred to me as to so
+many men of renown gradually vanishing from our
+sight, and our great geniuses having such homage
+paid to them after their death, and yet during their
+<em>life</em>, Lafontaine's novels and French vaudevilles
+alone make any impression on their fellow-countrymen;
+while <em>we</em> only strive to appreciate the very
+refuse of the French, and neglect Beaumarchais
+and Rousseau. However, it matters little after all.</p>
+
+<p>The first thing connected with music that I met
+with here, was the "Tod Jesu," by Graun, which
+an Abbate here, Fortunato Santini, has translated
+faithfully and admirably into Italian. It appears
+that the music of this heretic has been sent along
+with the translation to Naples, where it is to be
+produced this winter at a great festival, and I hear
+that the musical world there are quite enchanted
+with it, and are studying the work with infinite
+love and enthusiasm. I understand that the Abbate
+has been long impatiently expecting me, because he
+hopes to obtain considerable information from me
+about German music, and thinks I may also have
+the score of Bach's "Passion." Thus music progresses
+onwards, as sure to pierce through as the
+sun; if mists still prevail, it is merely a sign that
+the spring-time has not yet come, but come again
+it must and will! Farewell! and from my heart I
+say,&mdash;May a merciful Providence preserve you all
+in health and happiness!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52"> 52</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Rome, November 8th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>I must now write to you of my first week in
+Rome; how I have arranged my time, how I look
+forward to the winter, and what impression the
+glorious objects by which I am surrounded have
+made on me; but this is no easy task. I feel as if
+I were entirely changed since I came here. Formerly
+when I wished to check my haste and
+impatience to press forward, and to continue my
+journey more rapidly, I attributed this eagerness
+merely to the force of habit, but I am now fully
+persuaded that it arose entirely from my anxiety to
+reach this goal. Now that I have at last attained
+it my mood is so tranquil and joyous, and yet so
+earnest, that I shall not attempt to describe it to
+you. What it is that thus works on me I cannot
+exactly define; for the awe-inspiring Coliseum, and
+the brilliant Vatican, and the genial air of spring,
+all contribute to make me feel thus, and so do the
+kindly people, my comfortable apartments, and
+everything else. At all events I am different from
+what I was. I am better in health and happier
+than I have been for a long time, and take delight
+in my work, and feel such an inclination for it, that
+I expect to accomplish much more than I anticipated;
+indeed, I have already done a good deal. If
+it pleases Providence to grant me a continuation of
+this happy mood, I look forward to the most delightful
+and productive winter.</p>
+
+<p>Picture to yourself a small house, with two windows
+in front, in the Piazza di Spagna, No. 5 which
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"> 53</a></span>
+all day long enjoys the warm sun, and an apartment
+on the first floor, where there is a good Viennese
+grand piano: on the table are some portraits of
+Palestrina, Allegri, etc., along with the scores of
+their works, and a Latin psalm-book, from which I
+am to compose the <em>Non Nobis</em>;&mdash;such is my present
+abode. The Capitol was too far away, besides I
+had a great dread of the cold air, which here I have
+no cause to guard against; for when I look out of
+my window in the morning across the square, I see
+every object sharply defined in the sunshine against
+the blue sky. My landlord was formerly a captain
+in the French army, and his daughter has the most
+splendid contralto voice I ever heard. Above me
+lives a Prussian captain, with whom I talk politics,&mdash;in
+short, the situation is excellent.</p>
+
+<p>When I come into the room early in the morning,
+and see the sun shining so brightly on the breakfast-table
+(you see I am marred as a poet), I feel so
+cheerful and comfortable, for it is now far on in the
+autumn, and who in our country at this season looks
+for warmth, or a bright sky, or grapes and flowers?
+After breakfast I begin my work, and play, and
+sing, and compose till near noon. Then Rome in
+all her vast dimensions lies before me like an interesting
+problem to enjoy; but I go deliberately to
+work, daily selecting some different object appertaining
+to history. One day I visit the ruins of the
+ancient city; another I go to the Borghese gallery,
+or to the Capitol, or St. Peter's, or the Vatican.
+Each day is thus made memorable, and as I take
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54"> 54</a></span>
+my time, each object becomes firmly and indelibly
+impressed on me. When I am occupied in the
+forenoon I am willing to leave off, and should like
+to continue my writing, but I say to myself that I
+must see the Vatican, and when I am actually there,
+I equally dislike leaving it; thus each of my occupations
+causes me the most genuine pleasure, and
+one enjoyment follows another.</p>
+
+<p>Just as Venice, with her past, reminded me of a
+vast monument: her crumbling modern palaces,
+and the perpetual remembrance of former splendour,
+causing sad and discordant sensations; so
+does the past of Rome suggest the impersonation
+of history; her monuments elevate the soul, inspiring
+solemn yet serene feelings, and it is a thought
+fraught with exultation that man is capable of
+producing creations, which, after the lapse of a
+thousand years, still renovate and animate others.
+When I have fairly imprinted an object like this
+on my mind, and each day a fresh one, twilight has
+usually arrived and the day is over.</p>
+
+<p>I then visit my friends and acquaintances, when
+we mutually communicate what each has done,
+which means <em>enjoyed</em> here, and are reciprocally
+pleased. I have been most evenings at Bendemann's
+and Hübner's, where German artists usually assemble,
+and I sometimes go to Schadow's. The Abbate
+Santini is a valuable acquaintance for me, as he
+has a very complete library of ancient Italian
+music, and he kindly gives or lends me anything I
+like, for no one can be more obliging. At night he
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55"> 55</a></span>
+makes either Ahlborn or me accompany him home,
+as an Abbate being seen alone at night in the
+streets would bring him into evil repute. That
+such youngsters as Ahlborn and I should act as
+duennas to a priest of sixty is diverting enough.</p>
+
+<p>The Duchess of &mdash;&mdash; gave me a list of old music
+which she was anxious to procure copies of if possible.
+Santini's collection contains all this, and I am
+much obliged to him for having furnished me with
+copies, for I am now looking through them all, and
+becoming acquainted with them. I beg you will
+send me for him, as a token of my gratitude, the six
+cantatas of Sebastian Bach, published by Marx at
+Simrock's, or some of his pieces for the organ. I
+should however prefer the cantatas: he already has
+the "Magnificat" and the Motets, and others. He
+has translated the "Singet dem Herrn ein neues
+Lied," and intends it to be executed at Naples, for
+which he deserves a reward. I am writing to Zelter
+all particulars about the Papal singers, whom I
+have heard three times,&mdash;in the Quirinal, in the
+Monte Cavallo, and once in San Carlo.</p>
+
+<p>I look forward with delight to seeing Bunsen,
+we shall have much to discuss together, and I have
+likewise an idea that he has got some work for me;
+if I can conscientiously undertake it, I will do so
+gladly, and render it all the justice in my power.
+Among my home pleasures I include that of reading
+for the first time Goethe's Journey to Italy; and I
+must avow that it is a source of great satisfaction
+to me to find that he arrived in Rome the very
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56"> 56</a></span>
+same day that I did; that he also went first to the
+Quirinal, and heard a Requiem there; that he was
+seized with the same fit of impatience in Florence
+and Bologna; and felt the same tranquil, or as he calls
+it, solid spirit here: indeed, everything that he describes,
+I exactly experience myself, so I am pleased.</p>
+
+<p>He speaks in detail of a large picture of Titian's
+in the Vatican, and declares that its meaning is not
+to be devised; only a number of figures standing
+beautifully grouped together. I fancy, however,
+that I have discovered a very deep sense in it, and
+I believe that whoever finds the most beauties in
+Titian, is sure to be most in the right, for he was a
+glorious man. Though he has not had the opportunity
+of displaying and diffusing his genius here,
+as Raphael has done in the Vatican, still I can
+never forget his three pictures in Venice, and to
+these I may add the one in the Vatican, which I
+saw for the first time this morning. If any one
+could come into the world with full consciousness,
+every object around would smile on him with the
+same vivid life and animation, that these pictures do
+on us. "The School of Athens," and the "Disputa,"
+and the "Peter," stand before us precisely as they
+were created; and then the entrance through splendid
+open arches, whence you can see the Piazza of
+St. Peter's, and Rome, and the blue Alban hills; and
+above our heads figures from the Old Testament,
+and a thousand bright little angels, and arabesques
+of fruit, and garlands of flowers; and then on to
+the gallery!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"> 57</a></span>
+You may well be proud, dear Hensel, for your
+copy of the "Transfiguration" is superb! The
+pleasing emotion which seizes me, when I see for
+the first time some immortal work, and the pervading
+idea and chief impression it inspires, I did
+not experience on this occasion from the original,
+but from <em>your</em> copy. The first effect of this picture
+to-day, was precisely the same that yours had previously
+made on me; and it was not till after
+considerable research and contemplation that I
+succeeded in finding out anything new to me. On
+the other hand, the Madonna di Foligno dawned on
+me in the whole splendour of her loveliness. I
+have passed a happy morning in the midst of all
+these glorious works; as yet I have not visited the
+statues, but have reserved my first impression of
+them for another day.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<h3>November 9th, morning.</h3>
+
+<p>Thus every morning brings me fresh anticipations,
+and every day fulfils them. The sun is again
+shining on my breakfast-table and I am now going
+to my daily work. I will send you, dear Fanny, by
+the first opportunity, what I composed in Vienna,
+and anything else that may be finished, and my
+sketch-book to Rebecca; but I am far from being
+pleased with it this time, so I intend to study attentively
+the sketches of the landscape painters here,
+in order to acquire if possible a new manner. I
+tried to produce one of my own, but it would not
+do!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58"> 58</a></span>
+To-day I am going to the Lateran, and the ruins
+of ancient Rome; and in the evening to a kind
+English family, whose acquaintance I made here.
+Pray send me a good many letters of introduction.
+I am exceedingly anxious to know numbers of people,
+especially Italians. So I live on happily, and
+think of you in every pleasant moment. May you
+also be happy, and rejoice with me at the prospect
+which lies before me here!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix M. B.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Rome, November 16th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Fanny,</p>
+
+<p>No post left this the day before yesterday, and I
+could not talk to you, so when I remembered that
+my letter must necessarily remain two days before
+it left Rome, I felt it impossible to write; but I
+thought of you times without number, and wished
+you every happiness, and congratulated myself that
+you were born a certain number of years ago. It is,
+indeed, cheering to think what charming, rational
+beings, are to be found in the world; and you are
+certainly one of these. Continue cheerful, bright,
+and well, and make no great change in yourself. I
+don't think you require to be much better; may
+good fortune ever abide with you!</p>
+
+<p>And now I think these are all my birthday good
+wishes; for really it is not fair to expect that a man
+of my <em>calibre</em> should wish you also a fresh stock of
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59"> 59</a></span>
+musical ideas; besides you are very unreasonable
+in complaining of any deficiency in that respect.
+<em>Per Bacco!</em> if you had the inclination, you certainly
+have sufficient genius to compose, and if you have
+no desire to do so, why grumble so much? If I had
+a baby to nurse, I certainly should not write any
+scores, and as I have to compose <em>Non Nobis</em>, I
+cannot unluckily carry my nephew about in my
+arms. But to speak seriously, your child is scarcely
+six months old yet, and you can think of anything
+but Sebastian?<a name="FNanchor_6" id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> (not Bach!) Be thankful that you
+have him. Music only retreats when there is no
+longer a place for her, and I am not surprised that
+you are not an unnatural mother. However, you
+have my best wishes on your birthday, for all that
+your heart desires; so I may as well wish you half-a-dozen
+melodies into the bargain; not that this
+will be of much use.</p>
+
+<p>In Rome here, we celebrated the 14th of November
+by the sky shining, in blue and festive array,
+and breathing on us warm genial air. So I went on
+pleasantly towards the Capitol and into church,
+where I heard a miserable sermon from &mdash;&mdash;, who
+is no doubt a very good man, but to my mind has
+a most morose style of preaching; and any one
+who could irritate me on <em>such</em> a day, in the Capitol,
+and in church, must have an especial talent for so
+doing. I afterwards went to call on Bunsen, who
+had just arrived. He and his wife received me
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60"> 60</a></span>
+most kindly, and we conversed on much that was
+interesting, including politics and regrets for your
+absence. <em>Apropos</em>, my favourite work that I am
+now studying is Goethe's 'Lili's Park,' especially
+three portions: "Kehr' ich mich um, und brumm:"
+then, "Eh la menotte;" and best of all, "Die ganze
+Luft ist warm, ist blüthevoll," where decidedly
+clarionets must be introduced. I mean to make it
+the subject of a scherzo for a symphony.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday, at dinner at Bunsen's, we had among
+others a German musician. Oh, heavens! I wish I
+were a Frenchman! The man said to me, "Music
+must be <em>handled</em> every day." "Why?" replied I,
+which rather embarrassed him. He also spoke of
+earnest purpose; and said that Spohr had no earnest
+purpose, but that he had distinctly discerned gleams
+of an earnest purpose in my <em>Tu es Petrus</em>. The
+fellow, however, has a small property at Frascati,
+and is about to <em>lay down</em> the profession of music.
+We have not got so far as that yet!</p>
+
+<p>After dinner came Catel, Eggers, Senf, Wolf,
+then a painter, and then two more, and others. I
+played the piano, and they asked for pieces by
+Sebastian Bach, so I played numbers of his compositions,
+which were much admired. I also explained
+clearly to them the mode in which the "Passion" is
+executed; for they seemed scarcely to believe it.
+Bunsen possesses it, arranged for the piano; he
+showed it to the Papal singers, and they said before
+witnesses, that such music could not possibly be
+executed by human voices. I think the contrary.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61"> 61</a></span>
+It seems, however, that Trautwein is about to publish
+the score of the Passion of St. John. I suppose
+I must order a set of studs for Paris, <em>à la Back</em>.</p>
+
+<p>To-day Bunsen is to take me to Baini's, whom he
+has not seen for a year as he never goes out except
+to hear confessions. I am glad to know him, and
+shall endeavour to improve my intimacy with him,
+for he can solve many an enigma for me. Old
+Santini continues as kind as ever. When we are
+together in society, if I praise any particular piece
+or am not acquainted with it, next morning he is
+sure to knock gently at my door, and to bring me
+the piece in question carefully wrapped up in a
+blue pocket-handkerchief; I, in return, accompany
+him home every evening; and we have a great
+regard for each other. He also brought me his <em>Te
+Deum</em>, written in eight parts, requesting me to
+correct some of the modulations, as G major predominates
+too much; so I mean to try if I cannot
+introduce some A minor or E minor.</p>
+
+<p>I am now very anxious to become acquainted
+with a good many Italians. I visit at the house of
+a certain Maestro di San Giovanni Laterano, whose
+daughters are musical, but not pretty, so this does
+not count for much. If therefore you can send me
+letters, pray do so. I work in the morning; at noon
+I see and admire, and thus the day glides away till
+sunset: but I should like in the evening to associate
+with the Roman world. My kind English
+friends have arrived from Venice; Lord Harrowby
+and his family are to pass the winter here.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62"> 62</a></span>
+Schadow, Bendeman, Bunsen, Tippelskirch, all receive
+every evening; in short I have no lack of
+acquaintances, but I should like to know some
+Italians also.</p>
+
+<p>The present, dear Fanny, that I have prepared
+for your birthday, is a psalm, for chorus and orchestra,
+<em>Non nobis, Domine</em>. You know the melody
+well; there is an air in it which has a good
+ending, and the last chorus will I hope please you.
+I hear that next week I shall have an opportunity
+of sending it to you, along with a quantity of new
+music. I intend now to finish my overture, and
+then (D.V.) to proceed with my symphony. A
+pianoforte concerto, too, that I wish to write for
+Paris, begins to float in my head. If Providence
+kindly bestows on me success and bright days, I
+hope we shall enjoy them together. Farewell!
+May you be happy!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Rome, November 22nd, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>My dear Brother and Sisters,</p>
+
+<p>You know how much I dislike, at a distance of
+two hundred miles, and fourteen days' journey from
+you, to offer good advice. I mean to do so, however,
+for once. Let me tell you therefore of a
+mistake in your conduct, and in truth the same that
+I once made myself. I do assure you that never in
+my life have I known my father write in so irritable
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63"> 63</a></span>
+a strain as since I came to Rome, and so I wish to
+ask you if you cannot devise some domestic recipe
+to cheer him a little? I mean by forbearance and
+yielding to his wishes, and in this manner, by allowing
+my father's view of any subject to predominate
+over your own; then, not to speak at all on topics
+that irritate him; and instead of saying shameful,
+say unpleasant; or instead of superb, very fair.
+This method has often a wonderfully good effect;
+and I put it, with all submission to yourselves,
+whether it might not be equally successful in this
+case? For, with the exception of the great events
+of the world, ill-humour often seems to me to proceed
+from the same cause that my father's did when
+I chose to pursue my own path in my musical
+studies. He was then in a constant state of irritation,
+incessantly abusing Beethoven and all visionaries;
+and this often vexed me very much, and
+made me sometimes very unamiable. At that very
+time something new came out, which put my father
+out of sorts, and made him I believe not a little
+uneasy. So long therefore as I persisted in extolling
+and exalting my Beethoven, the evil
+became daily worse; and one day, if I remember
+rightly, I was even sent out of the room. At last, however,
+it occurred to me that I might speak a great
+deal of truth, and yet avoid the particular truth
+obnoxious to my father; so the aspect of affairs
+speedily began to improve, and soon all went well.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps you may have in some degree forgotten
+that you ought now and then to be forbearing, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64"> 64</a></span>
+not aggressive. My father considers himself both
+much older and more irritable than, thank God, he
+really is; but it is our duty always to submit our
+opinion to his, even if the truth be as much on our
+side, as it often is on his, when opposed to us.
+Strive, then, to praise what he likes, and do not
+attack what is implanted in his heart, more especially
+ancient established ideas. Do not commend
+what is new till it has made some progress in the
+world, and acquired a name, for till then it is a
+mere matter of taste. Try to draw my father into
+your circle, and be playful and kind to him. In
+short, try to smooth and to equalize things; and remember
+that I, who am now an experienced man of
+the world, never yet knew any family, taking into
+due consideration all defects and failings, who have
+hitherto lived so happily together as ours.</p>
+
+<p>Do not send me any answer to this, for you will
+not receive it for a month, and by that time no
+doubt some fresh topic will have arisen; besides, if
+I have spoken nonsense, I do not wish to be scolded
+by you; and if I have spoken properly, I hope you
+will follow my good advice.</p>
+
+<h3>November 23rd.</h3>
+
+<p>Just as I was going to set to work at the "Hebrides,"
+arrived Herr B&mdash;&mdash;, a musical professor from
+Magdeburg. He played me over a whole book of
+songs, and an Ave Maria, and begged to have the
+benefit of my opinion. I seemed in the position of
+a juvenile Nestor, and made him some insipid
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65"> 65</a></span>
+speeches, but this caused me the loss of a morning
+in Rome, which is a pity. The Choral, "Mitten wir
+im Leben sind," is finished, and is certainly one of
+the best sacred pieces that I have yet composed.
+After I have completed the Hebrides, I think of
+arranging Händel's Solomon for future performance,
+with proper curtailments, etc. I then purpose
+writing the Christmas music of "Vom Himmel
+hoch," and the symphony in A minor; perhaps also
+some pieces for the piano, and a concerto, etc., just
+as they come into my head.</p>
+
+<p>I own I do sadly miss some friend to whom I could
+communicate my new works, and who could examine
+the score along with me, and play a bass or a flute;
+whereas now when a piece is finished I must lay it
+aside in my desk without its giving pleasure to any
+one. London spoiled me in this respect. I can
+never again expect to meet all together such friends
+as I had there. Here I can only say the half of
+what I think, and leave the best half unspoken;
+whereas there it was not necessary to say more than
+the half, because the other half was a mere matter
+of course, and already understood. Still, this is a
+most delightful place.</p>
+
+<p>We young people went lately to Albano, and set
+off in the most lovely weather. The road to Frascati
+passed under the great aqueduct, its dark brown
+outlines standing out sharply defined against the
+clear blue sky; thence we proceeded to the monastery
+at Grotta Ferrata, where there are some beautiful
+frescoes by Domenichino; then to Marino, very
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66"> 66</a></span>
+picturesquely situated on a hill, and proceeding
+along the margin of the lake we reached Castel Gandolfo.
+The scenery, like my first impression of Italy,
+is by no means so striking or so wonderfully beautiful
+as is generally supposed, but most pleasing and
+gratifying to the eye, and the outlines undulating
+and picturesque, forming a perfect whole, with its
+<em>entourage</em> and distribution of light.</p>
+
+<p>Here I must deliver a eulogy on monks; they
+finish a picture at once, giving it tone and colour,
+with their wide loose gowns, their pious meditative,
+gait, and their dark aspect. A beautiful shady
+avenue of evergreen oaks runs along the lake from
+Castel Gandolfo to Albano, where monks of every
+order are swarming, animating the scenery and yet
+marking its solitude. Near the city a couple of
+begging monks were walking together; further on, a
+whole troop of young Jesuits; then we saw an elegant
+young priest in a thicket reading; beyond this
+two more were standing in the wood with their guns,
+watching for birds. Then we came to a monastery,
+encircled by a number of small chapels. At last all
+was solitude; but at that moment appeared a dirty,
+stupid-looking Capuchin, laden with huge nosegays,
+which he placed before the various shrines, kneeling
+down in front of them before proceeding to decorate
+them.</p>
+
+<p>As we passed on, we met two old prelates engaged
+in eager conversation. The bell for vespers was
+ringing in the monastery of Albano, and even on
+the summit of the highest hill stands a Passionist
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67"> 67</a></span>
+convent, where they are only permitted to speak for
+a single hour daily, and occupy themselves solely in
+reading the history of the passion of Christ. In
+Albano, among girls with pitchers on their heads,
+vendors of flowers and vegetables, and all the crowd
+and tumult, we saw a coal-black dumb monk, returning
+to Monte Cavo, who formed a singular contrast
+to the rest of the scene. They seem to have taken
+entire possession of all this splendid country, and
+form a strange melancholy ground-tone for all that
+is lively, gay, and free, and the ever-living cheerfulness
+bestowed by nature. It is as if men, on that
+very account, required a counterpoise. This is not
+however my case, and I need no contrast to enable
+me to enjoy what I see.</p>
+
+<p>I am often with Bunsen, and as he likes to turn
+the conversation on the subject of his Liturgy and
+its musical portions, which I consider very deficient,
+I am perfectly plain-spoken, and give him a straight-forward
+opinion; and I believe this is the only way
+to establish a mutual understanding. We have had
+several long, serious discussions, and I hope we
+shall eventually know each other better. Yesterday
+Palestrina's music was performed at Bunsen's house
+(as on every Monday), and then for the first time I
+played before the Roman musicians <em>in corpore</em>. I
+am quite aware of the necessity in every foreign city
+of playing so as to make myself understood by the
+audience. This makes me usually feel rather embarrassed,
+and such was the case with me yesterday.
+After the Papal singers finished Palestrina's music,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68"> 68</a></span>
+it was my turn to play something. A brilliant piece
+would have been unsuitable, and there had been
+more than enough of serious music; I therefore
+begged Astolfi, the Director, to give me a theme, so
+he lightly touched the notes with one finger thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/086.jpg" width="300" height="60" alt="music086" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/086a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>smiling as he did so. The black-frocked Abbati
+pressed round me and seemed highly delighted. I
+observed this, and it inspirited me so much that
+towards the end I succeeded famously; they clapped
+their hands like mad, and Bunsen declared that I
+had astounded the clergy; in short, the affair went
+off well. There is no encouraging prospect of any
+public performance here, so society is the only resource,
+which is fishing in troubled waters.</p>
+
+<p class="right">Yours, <span class="smcap">Felix</span>.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Rome, November 30th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>To come home from Bunsen's by moonlight, with
+your letter in my pocket, and then to read it through
+leisurely at night,&mdash;this is a degree of pleasure I
+wish many may enjoy. In all probability I shall stay
+here the whole winter, and not go to Naples till
+April. It is so delightful to look round on every
+side, and to appreciate it all properly. There is
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69"> 69</a></span>
+much that must be thought over, in order to receive
+a due impression from it. I have also within myself
+so much work requiring both quiet and industry,
+that I feel anything like haste would be utter destruction;
+and though I adhere faithfully to my
+system, to receive each day only one fresh image
+into my mind, still I am sometimes compelled even
+then to give myself a day of rest, that I may not
+become confused. I write you a short letter to-day,
+because I must for the present adhere to my work;
+and yet I cannot refrain from culling all the beauty
+that lies at my feet. The weather, too, is <em>brutto</em>
+and cold, so that I am not in a very communicative
+mood. The Pope is dying, or possibly dead by this
+time. "We shall soon get a new one," say the
+Italians, coolly. His death will not affect the Carnival,
+nor the church festivals, with their pomps
+and processions, and fine music; and as there will
+be in addition to these, solemn requiems, and the
+lying-in-state at St. Peter's, they care little about it,
+provided it does not occur in February.</p>
+
+<p>I am delighted to hear that Mantius sings my
+songs, and likes them. Give him my kind regards,
+and ask him why he does not perform his promise,
+and write to me. I have written to him repeatedly
+in the shape of music. In the "Ave Maria," and in
+the choral "Aus tiefer Noth," some passages are
+composed expressly for him, and he will sing them
+charmingly. In the "Ave," which is a salutation,
+a tenor solo takes the lead of the choir (I thought
+of a disciple all the time). As the piece is in A
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70"> 70</a></span>
+major, and goes rather high at the words <em>Benedicta
+tu</em>, he must prepare his high A; it will vibrate
+well. Ask him to sing you a song I sent to Devrient
+from Venice, "Von schlechtem Lebenswandel."
+It is expressive of mingled joy and despair; no
+doubt he will sing it well. Show it to no one, but
+confine it solely to forty eyes. Ritz<a name="FNanchor_7" id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> too never
+writes, and yet I am constantly longing for his violin
+and his depth of feeling when he plays, which
+all recurs to my mind when I see his welcome writing.
+I am now working daily at the "Hebrides,"
+and will send it to Ritz as soon as it is finished. It
+is quite a piece to suit him&mdash;so very singular.</p>
+
+<p>Next time I write I will tell you more of myself.
+I work hard, and lead a pleasant, happy life; my
+mirror is stuck full of Italian, German, and English
+visiting-cards, and I spend every evening with one
+of my acquaintances. There is a truly Babylonian
+confusion of tongues in my head, for English,
+Italian, German and French are all mixed up together
+in it. Two days ago I again extemporized
+before the Papal singers. The fellows had contrived
+to get hold of the most strange, quaint
+theme for me, wishing to put my powers to the test.
+They call me, however, <em>l'insuperabile professorone</em>,
+and are particularly kind and friendly. I much
+wished to have described to you the Sunday music in
+the Sistina, a <em>soirée</em> at Torlonia's, the Vatican, St.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71"> 71</a></span>
+Onofrio, Guido's Aurora, and other small matters,
+but I reserve them for my next letter. The post
+is about to set off, and this letter with it. My
+good wishes are always with you, to-day and ever.</p>
+
+<p class="right">Yours, <span class="smcap">Felix</span>.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Rome, December 7th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>I cannot even to-day manage to write to you as
+fully as I wish. Heaven knows how time flies here!
+I was introduced this week to several agreeable
+English families, and so I have the prospect of many
+pleasant evenings this winter. I am much with
+Bunsen. I intend also to cultivate Baini. I think
+he conceives me to be only a <em>brutissimo Tedesco</em>, so
+that I have a famous opportunity of becoming well
+acquainted with him. His compositions are certainly
+of no great value, and the same may be said of the
+whole music here. The wish is not wanting, but the
+means do not exist. The orchestra is below contempt.
+Mdlle. Carl,<a name="FNanchor_8" id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> (who is engaged as <em>prima
+donna assoluta</em> for the season, at both the principal
+theatres here,) is now arrived, and begins to make
+<em>la pluie et le beau temps</em>. The Papal singers even
+are becoming old; they are almost all unmusical,
+and do not execute even the most established pieces
+in tune. The whole choir consists of thirty-two
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"> 72</a></span>
+singers, but that number are rarely together. Concerts
+are given by the so-called Philharmonic Society,
+but only with the piano. There is no orchestra, and
+when recently they wished to perform Haydn's
+"Creation," the instrumentalists declared it was
+impossible to play it. The sounds they bring out of
+their wind instruments, are such as in Germany we
+have no conception of.</p>
+
+<p>The Pope is dead, and the Conclave assembles on
+the 14th. A great part of the winter will be occupied
+with the ceremonies of his funeral, and the enthronement
+of the new Pope. All music therefore
+and large parties must be at an end, so I very much
+doubt whether I shall be able to undertake any public
+performance during my stay here; but I do not
+regret this, for there are so many varied objects to
+enjoy inwardly, that my dwelling on these and meditating
+on them is no disadvantage. The performance
+of Graun's "Passion" in Naples, and more especially
+the translation of Sebastian Bach's, prove that the
+good cause is sure eventually to make its way,
+though it will neither kindle enthusiasm, nor will it
+be appreciated. It is no worse however with regard
+to music&mdash;in fact, rather better&mdash;than with their
+estimate of every other branch of the fine arts; for
+when some of Raphael's Loggie are with inconceivable
+recklessness and disgraceful barbarism actually
+defaced, to give place to inscriptions in pencil; when
+the lower parts of the arabesques are totally destroyed,
+because Italians with knives, and Heaven
+knows what else besides, inscribe their insignificant
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73"> 73</a></span>
+names there; when one person painted in large
+letters under the Apollo Belvedere, 'Christ;' when
+an altar has been erected in front of Michael Angelo's
+"Last Judgment," so large that it hides the
+centre of the picture, thus destroying the whole
+effect; when cattle are driven through the splendid
+saloons of the Villa Madama, the walls of which are
+painted by Giulio Romano, and fodder is stored in
+them, simply from indifference towards the beautiful,&mdash;all
+this is certainly much worse than a bad orchestra,
+and painters must be even more distressed
+by such things than I am by their miserable music.</p>
+
+<p>The fact is, that the people are mentally enervated
+and apathetic. They have a religion, but
+they do not believe in it; they have a Pope and a
+Government, but they turn them into ridicule; they
+can recall a brilliant and heroic past, but they do
+not value it. It is thus no marvel that they do not
+delight in Art, for they are indifferent to all that is
+earnest. It is really quite revolting to see their
+unconcern about the death of the Pope, and their
+unseemly merriment during the ceremonies. I myself
+saw the corpse lying in state, and the priests
+standing round incessantly whispering and laughing;
+and at this moment, when masses are being
+said for his soul, they are in the very same church
+hammering away at the scaffolding of the catafalque,
+so that the strokes of the hammers and the noise of
+the workpeople entirely prevent any one hearing
+the religious services. As soon as the Cardinals
+assemble in conclave, satires appear against them,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74"> 74</a></span>
+where, for instance, they parody the Litanies, and instead
+of praying to be delivered from each particular
+sin, they name the bad qualities of each well-known
+cardinal; or, again, they perform an entire opera,
+where all the characters are Cardinals, one being
+the <em>primo amoroso</em>, another the <em>tiranno assoluto</em>, a
+third, stage candle-snuffer, etc. This could not be
+the case where the people took any pleasure in Art.
+Formerly it was no better, but they had faith then;
+and it is this which makes the difference. Nature,
+however, and the genial December atmosphere, and
+the outlines of the Alban hills, stretching as far as
+the sea, all remain unchanged. There they can
+scribble no names, or compose no inscriptions.
+These every one can still individually enjoy in all
+their freshness, and to these I cling. I feel much
+the want of a <em>friend</em> here, to whom I could freely
+unbosom myself; who could read my music as I
+write it, thus making it doubly precious in my
+eyes; in whose society I could feel an interest, and
+enjoy repose; and honestly learn from him, (it would
+not require a very wise man for this purpose.) But
+just as trees are not ordained to grow up into the
+sky, so probably such a man is not likely to be
+found here; and the good fortune I have hitherto
+so richly enjoyed elsewhere, is not to fall to my
+share at present; so I must hum over my melodies
+to myself, and I dare say I shall do well enough.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75"> 75</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Rome, December 10th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Father,</p>
+
+<p>It is a year this very day since we kept your
+birthday at Hensel's, and now let me give you some
+account of Rome, as I did at that time of London.
+I intend to finish my Overture to the "Einsame
+Insel"<a name="FNanchor_9" id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> as a present to you, and if I write under it
+the 11th December, when I take up the sheets I
+shall feel as if I were about to place them in your
+hands. You would probably say that you could not
+read them, but still I should have offered you the
+best it was in my power to give; and though I
+desire to do this every day, still there is a peculiar
+feeling connected with a birthday. Would I were
+with you! I need not offer you my good wishes,
+for you know them all already, and the deep interest
+I, and all of us, take in your happiness and welfare,
+and that we cannot wish any good for you, that is
+not reflected doubly on ourselves. To-day is a holiday.
+I rejoice in thinking how cheerful you are at
+home; and when I repeat to you how happily I
+live here, I feel as if this were also a felicitation.
+A period like this, when serious thought and enjoyment
+are combined, is indeed most cheering and
+invigorating. Every time I enter my room I rejoice
+that I am not obliged to pursue my journey on the
+following day, and that I may quietly postpone
+many things till the morrow&mdash;that I am in Rome!
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76"> 76</a></span>
+Hitherto much that passed through my brain was
+swept away by fresh ideas, each new impression
+chasing away the previous one, while here, on the
+contrary, they are all in turn properly developed.
+I never remember having worked with so much zeal,
+and if I am to complete all that I have projected, I
+must be very industrious during the winter. I am
+indeed deprived of the great delight of showing my
+finished compositions to one who could take pleasure
+in them, and enter into them along with me;
+but this impels me to return to my labours, which
+please me most when I am fairly in the midst of
+them. And now this must be combined with the
+various solemnities, and festivals of every kind,
+which are to supplant my work for a few days; and
+as I have resolved to see and to enjoy all I possibly
+can, I do not allow my occupation to prevent this,
+and shall then return with fresh zeal to my composition.</p>
+
+<p>This is indeed a delightful existence! My health
+is as good as possible, though the hot wind, called
+here the <em>sirocco</em>, rather attacks my nerves, and I
+find I must beware of playing the piano much, or
+at night; besides it is easy for me to refrain from
+doing so for a few days, as for some weeks past I
+have been playing almost every evening. Bunsen,
+who often warns me against playing if I find it prejudicial,
+gave a large party yesterday, where nevertheless
+I was obliged to play; but it was a pleasure
+to me, for I had the opportunity of making so many
+agreeable acquaintances. Thorwaldsen, in particular,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77"> 77</a></span>
+expressed himself in so gratifying a manner
+with regard to me, that I felt quite proud, for I
+honor him as one of the greatest of men, and
+always have revered him. He looks like a lion,
+and the very sight of his face is invigorating. You
+feel at once that he must be a noble artist; his
+eyes look so clear, as if with him every object must
+assume a definite form and image. Moreover he is
+very gentle, and kind, and mild, because his nature
+is so superior; and yet he seems to be able to enjoy
+every trifle. It is a real source of pleasure to see
+a great man, and to know that the creator of works
+that will endure for ever stands before you in person;
+a living being with all his attributes, and
+individuality, and genius, and yet a man like others.</p>
+
+<h3>December 11th, morning.</h3>
+
+<p>Now your actual birthday is arrived! A few
+lines of music suggested themselves to me on the
+occasion, and though they may not be worth much,
+the congratulations I have been in the habit of offering,
+were of quite as little value. Fanny may add
+the second part. I have only written what occurred
+to my mind as I entered the room, the sun shining,
+on your birthday:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/095.jpg" width="300" height="126" alt="music095a" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78"> 78</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/096.jpg" width="300" height="486" alt="music095a" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79"> 79</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/097.jpg" width="300" height="466" alt=" music095a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/095a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80"> 80</a></span>
+Bunsen has just been here, and begs me to send
+you his best regards and congratulations. He is all
+kindness and courtesy towards me, and as you wish
+to know, I think I may say that we suit each other
+remarkably well. The few words you wrote about
+P&mdash;&mdash; recalled him to my memory in all his offensiveness.
+The Abbate Santini ought to be an
+obscure man compared with him, for he never
+attempts to magnify his own importance by impertinence
+or self-sufficiency. P&mdash;&mdash; is one of those
+collectors who make learning and libraries distasteful
+to others by their narrow-mindedness, whereas
+Santini is a genuine collector, in the best sense of
+the word, caring little whether his collection be of
+much value in a pecuniary point of view. He therefore
+gives everything away indiscriminately, and is
+only anxious to procure something new, for his chief
+object is the diffusion and universal knowledge of
+ancient music. I have not seen him lately, as every
+morning now he figures, <em>ex officio</em>, in his violet gown
+at St. Peter's; but if he has made use of some ancient
+text, he will say so without scruple, as he has
+no wish to be thought the first discoverer. He is,
+in fact, a man of limited capacity; and this I consider
+great praise in a certain sense, for though he is
+neither a musical nor any other luminary, and even
+bears some resemblance to Lessing's inquisitive friar,
+still he knows how to confine himself within his own
+sphere. Music itself does not interest him much, if
+he can only have it on his shelves; and he is, and
+esteems himself to be, simply a quiet, zealous collector.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81"> 81</a></span>
+I must admit that he is fatiguing, and not
+altogether free from irritability; still I love any one
+who adopts and perseveres in some particular pursuit,
+prosecuting it to the best of his ability, and
+endeavouring to perfect it for the benefit of mankind,
+and I think every one ought to esteem him just the
+same, whether he chance to be tiresome or agreeable.</p>
+
+<p>I wish you would read this aloud to P&mdash;&mdash;. It
+always makes me furious when men who have no
+pursuit, presume to criticize those who wish to effect
+something, even on a small scale; so on this very
+account I took the liberty of rebuking lately a certain
+musician in society here. He began to speak
+of Mozart, and as Bunsen and his sister love Palestrina,
+he tried to flatter their tastes by asking me,
+for instance, what I thought of the worthy Mozart,
+and all his sins. I however replied, that so far as I
+was concerned, I should feel only too happy to renounce
+all <em>my</em> virtues in exchange for Mozart's sins:
+but that of course I could not venture to pronounce
+on the extent of <em>his</em> virtues. The people all laughed,
+and were highly amused. How strange it is that
+such persons should feel no awe of so great a name!</p>
+
+<p>It is some consolation, however, that it is the same
+in every sphere of art, as the painters here are quite
+as bad. They are most formidable to look at, sitting
+in their <em>Café Greco</em>. I scarcely ever go there, for
+I dislike both them and their favourite places of resort.
+It is a small dark room, about eight feet
+square, where on one side you may smoke, but not
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82"> 82</a></span>
+on the other; so they sit round on benches, with
+their broad-leaved hats on their heads, and their
+huge mastiffs beside them; their cheeks and throats,
+and the whole of their faces covered with hair, puffing
+forth clouds of smoke (only on one side of the
+room), and saying rude things to each other, while
+the mastiffs swarm with vermin. A neckcloth or a
+coat would be quite innovations. Any portion of
+the face visible through the beard, is hid by spectacles;
+so they drink coffee, and speak of Titian and
+Pordenone, just as if they were sitting beside them,
+and also wore beards and wide-awakes! Moreover,
+they paint such sickly Madonnas and feeble saints,
+and such milk-sop heroes, that I feel the strongest
+inclination to knock them down. These infernal
+critics do not even shrink from discussing Titian's
+picture in the Vatican, about which you asked me;
+they say that it has neither subject nor meaning; yet
+it never seems to occur to them, that a master who
+had so long studied a picture with due love and
+reverence, must have had quite as deep an insight
+into the subject as they are likely to have, even with
+their coloured spectacles. And if in the course of
+my life I accomplish nothing but this, I am at all
+events determined to say the most harsh and cutting
+things to those who show no reverence towards their
+masters, and then I shall at least have performed
+one good work. But there they stand, and see all
+the splendour of those creations, so far transcending
+their own conceptions, and yet dare to criticize them.</p>
+
+<p>In this picture there are three stages, or whatever
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83"> 83</a></span>
+they are called the same as in the "Transfiguration."
+Below, saints and martyrs are represented in suffering
+and abasement; on every face is depicted sadness,
+nay almost impatience; one figure in rich
+episcopal robes looks upwards, with the most eager
+and agonized longing, as if weeping, but he cannot
+see all that is floating above his head, but which <em>we</em>
+see, standing in front of the picture. Above, Mary
+and her Child are in a cloud, radiant with joy, and
+surrounded by angels, who have woven many garlands;
+the Holy Child holds one of these, and seems
+as if about to crown the saints beneath, but his
+Mother withholds his hand for the moment. The
+contrast between the pain and suffering below,
+whence St. Sebastian looks forth out of the picture
+with such gloom and almost apathy, and the lofty
+unalloyed exultation in the clouds above, where
+crowns and palms are already awaiting him, is truly
+admirable. High above the group of Mary, hovers
+the Holy Spirit, from whom emanates a bright
+streaming light, thus forming the apex of the whole
+composition. I have just remembered that Goethe,
+at the beginning of his first visit to Rome, describes
+and admires this picture; but I no longer have the
+book to enable me to read it over, and to compare
+my description with his. He speaks of it in considerable
+detail. It was at that time in the Quirinal,
+and subsequently transferred to the Vatican;
+whether it was painted on a given subject, as some
+allege, or not, is of no moment. Titian has imbued
+it with his genius and his poetical feeling, and has
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84"> 84</a></span>
+thus made it his own. I like Schadow much, and am
+often with him; on every occasion, and especially in
+his own department, he is mild and clear-judging,
+doing justice with due modesty to all that is truly
+great; he recently said that Titian had never painted
+an indifferent or an uninteresting picture, and I believe
+he is right; for life and enthusiasm and the soundest
+vigour are displayed in all his productions, and where
+these are, it is good to be also. There is one singular
+and fortunate peculiarity here: though all the
+objects have been, a thousand times over, described,
+discussed, copied, and criticized, in praise or blame,
+by the greatest masters, and the most insignificant
+scholars, cleverly or stupidly, still they never fail to
+make a fresh and sublime impression on all, affecting
+each person according to his own individuality.
+Here we can take refuge from man in all that surrounds
+us; in Berlin it is often exactly the reverse.</p>
+
+<p>I have this moment received your letter of the
+27th, and am pleased to find that I have already
+answered many of the questions it contains. There
+is no hurry about the letters I asked for, as I have
+now made almost more acquaintances than I
+wish; besides, late hours, and playing so much, do
+not suit me in Rome, so I can await the arrival of
+these letters very patiently: it was not so at the
+time I urged you to send them. I cannot however
+understand what you mean by your allusion to
+<em>coteries</em> which I ought to have outgrown, for I
+know that I, and all of us, invariably dreaded and
+detested what is usually so called,&mdash;that is, a
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85"> 85</a></span>
+frivolous, exclusive circle of society, clinging to
+empty outward forms. Among persons, however,
+who daily meet, while their mutual objects of
+interest remain the same, who have no sympathy
+with public life (and this is certainly the case
+in Berlin, with the exception of the theatre), it is
+not unnatural that they should form for themselves
+a gay, cheerful, and original mode of treating passing
+events, and that this should give rise to a
+peculiar, and perhaps monotonous style of conversation;
+but this by no means constitutes a <em>coterie</em>.
+I feel convinced that I shall never belong to one,
+whether I am in Rome or Wittenberg. I am glad
+that the last words I was writing when your letter
+arrived, chanced to be that in Berlin you must take
+refuge in society from all that surrounds you; thus
+proving that I had no spirit of <em>coterie</em>, which invariably
+estranges men from each other. I should
+deeply regret your observing anything of the kind
+in me or in any of us, except indeed for the moment.
+Forgive me, my dear father, for defending myself
+so warmly, but this word is most repugnant to my
+feelings, and you say in your letters that I am always
+to speak out what I think in a straightforward
+manner, so pray do not take this amiss.</p>
+
+<p>I was in St. Peter's to-day, where the grand
+solemnities called the absolutions have begun for
+the Pope, and which last till Tuesday, when the
+Cardinals assemble in conclave. The building surpasses
+all powers of description. It appears to me
+like some great work of nature, a forest, a mass of
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86"> 86</a></span>
+rocks, or something similar; for I never can realize
+the idea that it is the work of man. You strive to
+distinguish the ceiling as little as the canopy of
+heaven. You lose your way in St. Peter's, you
+take a walk in it, and ramble till you are quite
+tired; when divine service is performed and chanted
+there, you are not aware of it till you come quite
+close. The angels in the Baptistery are monstrous
+giants; the doves, colossal birds of prey; you lose
+all idea of measurement with the eye, or proportion;
+and yet who does not feel his heart expand,
+when standing under the dome, and gazing up at
+it? At present a monstrous catafalque has been
+erected in the nave in this shape.<a name="FNanchor_10" id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> The coffin is
+placed in the centre under the pillars; the thing is
+totally devoid of taste, and yet it has a wondrous
+effect. The upper circle is thickly studded with
+lights, so are all the ornaments; the lower circle is
+lighted in the same way, and over the coffin hangs
+a burning lamp, and innumerable lights are blazing
+under the statues. The whole structure is more
+than a hundred feet high, and stands exactly opposite
+the entrance. The guards of honour, and the
+Swiss, march about in the quadrangle; in every
+corner sits a Cardinal in deep mourning, attended
+by his servants, who hold large burning torches,
+and then the singing commences with responses, in
+the simple and monotonous tone you no doubt remember.
+It is the only occasion when there is any
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87"> 87</a></span>
+singing in the middle of the church, and the effect
+is wonderful. Those who place themselves among
+the singers (as I do) and watch them, are forcibly
+impressed by the scene: for they all stand round a
+colossal book from which they sing, and this book
+is in turn lit up by a colossal torch that burns
+before it; while the choir are eagerly pressing forward
+in their vestments, in order to see and to sing
+properly: and Baini with his monk's face, marking
+time with his hand, and occasionally joining in the
+chant with a stentorian voice. To watch all these
+different Italian faces, was most interesting; one
+enjoyment quickly succeeds another here, and it is
+the same in their churches, especially in St. Peter's,
+where by moving a few steps the whole scene is
+changed. I went to the very furthest end, whence
+there was indeed a wonderful <em>coup d'&oelig;il</em>. Through
+the spiral columns of the high altar, which is confessedly
+as high as the palace in Berlin, far beyond
+the space of the cupola, the whole mass of the
+catafalque was seen in diminished perspective, with
+its rows of lights, and numbers of small human
+beings crowding round it. When the music commences,
+the sounds do not reach the other end for
+a long time, but echo and float in the vast space,
+so that the most singular and vague harmonies are
+borne towards you. If you change your position,
+and place yourself right in front of the catafalque,
+beyond the blaze of light and the brilliant pageantry,
+you have the dusky cupola replete with blue vapour;
+all this is quite indescribable. Such is Rome!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88"> 88</a></span>
+This has become a long letter, so I must conclude;
+it will reach you on Christmas-day. May
+you all enjoy it happily! I send each of you presents,
+which are to be dispatched two days hence,
+and will arrive in time for the anniversary of your
+silver wedding-day. Many glad festivals are thus
+crowded together, and I scarcely know whether to
+imagine myself with you to-day, and to wish you,
+dear father, all possible happiness, or to arrive with
+my letter at Christmas, and not to be allowed by
+my mother to pass through the room with the
+Christmas-tree. I am afraid I must be contented
+with thinking of you.&mdash;Farewell all! May you be
+happy!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<p>I have just received your letter, which brings me
+the intelligence of Goethe's illness. What I personally
+feel at this news I cannot express. This
+whole evening his words, "I must try to keep all
+right till your return," have sounded continually in
+my ears, to the exclusion of every other thought:
+when he is gone, Germany will assume a very
+different aspect for artists. I have never thought
+of Germany without feeling heartfelt joy and pride
+that Goethe lived there; and the rising generation
+seem for the most part so weakly and feeble, that it
+makes my heart sink within me. He is the last;
+and with him closes a happy prosperous period for
+us! This year ends in solemn sadness.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89"> 89</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Rome, December 20th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>In my former letter I told you of the more serious
+aspect of Roman life; but as I wish to describe to
+you how I live, I must now tell you of the gayeties
+that have prevailed during this week.</p>
+
+<p>To-day we have the most genial sunshine, a blue
+sky, and a transparent atmosphere, and on such days
+I have my own mode of passing my time. I work
+hard till eleven o'clock, and from that hour till
+dark, I do nothing but breathe the air. For the
+first time, for some days past, we yesterday had
+fine weather. After therefore working for a time
+in the morning at "Solomon," I went to the Monte
+Pincio, where I rambled about the whole day. The
+effect of this exhilarating air is quite magical; and
+when I arose to-day, and again saw bright sunshine,
+I exulted in the thoughts of the entire idleness I
+was again about to indulge in. The whole world is
+on foot, revelling in a December spring. Every
+moment you meet some acquaintance, with whom
+you lounge about for a time, then leave him, and
+once more enjoy your solitary revery. There are
+swarms of handsome faces to be seen. As the sun
+declines, the appearance of the whole landscape,
+and every hue, undergo a change. When the Ave
+Maria sounds, it is time to go to the church of
+Trinità de' Monti, where French nuns sing; and it
+is charming to hear them. I declare to heaven that
+I am become quite tolerant, and listen to bad music
+with edification; but what can I do? the composition
+is positively ridiculous; the organ playing even
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90"> 90</a></span>
+more absurd. But it is twilight, and the whole of
+the small bright church is filled with persons kneeling,
+lit up by the sinking sun each time that the
+door is opened; both the singing nuns have the
+sweetest voices in the world, quite tender and
+touching, more especially when one of them sings
+the responses in her melodious voice, which we are
+accustomed to hear chanted by priests in a loud,
+harsh, monotonous tone. The impression is very
+singular; moreover, it is well known that no one is
+permitted to see the fair singers,&mdash;so this caused me
+to form a strange resolution. I have composed
+something to suit their voices, which I observed
+very minutely, and I mean to send it to them,&mdash;there
+are several modes to which I can have recourse
+to accomplish this. That they will sing it,
+I feel quite assured; and it will be pleasant for me
+to hear my chant performed by persons whom I
+never saw, especially as they must in turn sing it to
+the <em>barbaro Tedesco</em>, whom they also never beheld.
+I am charmed with this idea. The text is in Latin,&mdash;a
+Prayer to Mary. Does not this notion please
+you?<a name="FNanchor_11" id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></p>
+
+<p>After church I walk again on the hill until it is
+quite dark, when Madame Vernet and her daughter,
+and pretty Madame V&mdash;&mdash; (for whose acquaintance
+I have to thank Roesel), are much admired by us
+Germans, and we form groups round them, or follow,
+or walk beside them. The background is
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91"> 91</a></span>
+formed by haggard painters with terrific beards;
+they smoke tobacco on the Monte Pincio, whistle to
+their huge dogs, and enjoy the sunset in their own
+way.</p>
+
+<p>As I am in a frivolous mood to-day, I must relate
+to you, dear sisters, every particular of a ball I
+lately attended, and where I danced with a degree
+of zeal I never did before. I had spoken a few fair
+words to the <em>maître de danse</em> (who stands in the
+middle here, and regulates everything), consequently
+he allowed the galop to continue for more than half
+an hour, so I was in my element, and pleasantly
+conscious that I was dancing in the Palazzo Albani,
+in Rome, and also with the prettiest girl in it,
+according to the verdict of the competent judges
+(Thorwaldsen, Vernet, etc.) The way in which I became
+acquainted with her is also an anecdote of
+Rome. I was at Torlonia's first ball, though not dancing,
+as I knew none of the ladies present, but merely
+looking at the people. Suddenly some one tapped
+me on the shoulder, saying, "So you also are admiring
+the English beauty; I am quite dazzled." It
+was Thorwaldsen himself standing at the door, lost
+in admiration; scarcely had he said this, when we
+heard a torrent of words behind us,&mdash;"Mais où
+est-elle donc, cette petite Anglaise? Ma femme
+m'a envoyé pour la regarder. Per Bacco!" It
+was quite clear that this little thin Frenchman, with
+stiff, grey hair, and the ribbon of the Legion of
+Honour, must be Horace Vernet. He now discussed
+the youthful beauty with Thorwaldsen, in the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92"> 92</a></span>
+most earnest and scientific manner; and it was
+quite a pleasure to me to see these two old masters
+admiring the young girl together, while she was
+dancing away, quite unconcerned. They were then
+presented to her parents, but I felt very insignificant,
+as I could not join in the conversation. A
+few days afterwards, however, I was with some
+acquaintances whom I knew through the Attwoods,
+at Venice, they having invited me for the purpose
+of presenting me to some of their friends; and
+these friends turned out to be the very persons I
+have been speaking of; so your son and brother was
+highly delighted.</p>
+
+<p>My pianoforte playing is a source of great gratification
+to me here. You know how Thorwaldsen
+loves music, and I sometimes play to him in the
+morning while he is at work. He has an excellent
+instrument in his studio, and when I look at the
+old gentleman and see him kneading his brown
+clay, and delicately fining off an arm, or a fold of
+drapery,&mdash;in short, when he is creating what we must
+all admire when completed, as an enduring work,&mdash;then
+I do indeed rejoice that I have the means of
+bestowing any enjoyment on him. Nevertheless, I
+have not fallen into arrear with my own tasks.
+The "Hebrides" is completed at last, and a strange
+production it is. The chant for the nuns is in my
+head; and I think of composing Luther's choral
+for Christmas, but on this occasion I must do so
+quite alone; and it will be a more serious affair this
+time, and so will the anniversary of your silver
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93"> 93</a></span>
+wedding-day, when I intend to have a great many
+lights, and to sing my "Liederspiel," and to have a
+peep at my English <em>bâton</em>. After the new year, I
+intend to resume instrumental music, and to write
+several things for the piano, and probably a symphony
+of some kind, for two have been haunting my
+brain.</p>
+
+<p>I have lately frequented a most delightful spot,&mdash;the
+tomb of Cecilia Metella. The Sabine hills had
+a sprinkling of snow, but it was glorious sunshine;
+the Alban hills were like a dream or a vision.
+There is no such thing as distance in Italy, for all
+the houses on the hills can be counted, with their
+roofs and windows. I have thus inhaled this air to
+satiety; and to-morrow in all probability, more
+serious occupations will be resumed, for the sky is
+cloudy, and it is raining hard, but what a spring
+this will be!</p>
+
+<h3>December 21st.</h3>
+
+<p>This is the shortest day, and very gloomy, as might
+have been anticipated; so to-day nothing can be
+thought of but fugues, chorals, balls, etc. But I
+must say a few words about Guido's "Aurora,"
+which I often visit; it is a picture the very type of
+haste and impetus; for surely no man ever imagined
+such hurry and tumult, such sounding and clashing.
+Painters maintain that it is lighted from two sides,&mdash;they
+have my full permission to light <em>theirs</em> from
+three if it will improve them,&mdash;but the difference
+lies elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94"> 94</a></span>
+I really cannot compose a tolerable song here, for
+who is there to sing it to me? But I am writing a
+grand fugue, "Wir glauben all," and sing it to myself
+in such a fashion that my friend the Captain
+rushes downstairs in alarm, puts in his head, and
+asks what I want. I answer&mdash;a counter theme.
+But how much I do really want; and yet how much
+I have got! Thus life passes onwards.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Rome, December 28th, 1830.</h3>
+
+<p>Rome in wet weather is the most odious, uncomfortable
+place imaginable. For some days past we
+have had incessant storms and cold, and streams of
+water from the sky; and I can scarcely comprehend
+how, only one week ago, I could write you a letter
+full of rambles and orange-trees and all that is
+beautiful: in such weather as this everything becomes
+ugly. Still, I must write to you about it,
+otherwise my previous letter would not have the
+advantage of contrast, and of that there is no lack.
+If in Germany we can form no conception of the
+bright winter days here, quite as little can we realize
+a really wet winter day in Rome; everything is
+arranged for fine weather, so the bad is borne like a
+public calamity, and in the hope of better times.
+There is no shelter anywhere; in my room, which is
+usually so comfortable, the water pours in through
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95"> 95</a></span>
+the windows, which will not shut fast; the wind
+whistles through the doors, which will not close; the
+stone floor chills you in spite of double mattings,
+and the smoke from the chimney is driven into the
+room, because the fire will not burn; foreigners
+shiver and freeze here like tailors.</p>
+
+<p>All this is, however, actual luxury when compared
+with the streets; and when I am obliged to go out,
+I consider it a positive misfortune. Rome, as every
+one knows, is built on seven large hills; but there
+are a number of smaller ones besides, and all the
+streets are sloping, so the water pours down them,
+and rushes towards you; nowhere is there a raised
+footpath, or a <em>trottoir</em>; at the stair of the Piazza di
+Spagna, there is a flood like the great water-works
+in Wilhelms-Höhe; the Tiber has overflowed its
+banks, and inundated the adjacent streets: this,
+then, is the water from below. From above come
+violent showers of rain, but that is the least part.
+The houses have no water-spouts, and the long roofs
+slant precipitously, but, being of different lengths,
+this causes an incessant violent inundation on both
+sides of the street, so that go where you will, close
+to the houses, or in the middle of the streets, beside
+a barber's shop or a palace, you are sure to be deluged,
+and, quite unawares, you find yourself standing
+under a tremendous shower-bath, the water pelting
+on your umbrella, while a stream is running before
+you that you cannot jump over, so you are obliged
+to return the way you came: this is the water overhead.
+Then the carriages drive as rapidly as possible,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96"> 96</a></span>
+and close to the houses, so that you must retreat
+into the doorways till they are past; they not only
+splash men and houses, but each other, so that when
+two meet, one must drive into the gutter, which,
+being a rapid current, the consequences are lamentable.
+Lately I saw an Abbate hurrying along, whose
+umbrella chancing to knock off the broad-brimmed
+hat of a peasant, it fell with the crown exposed to
+one of these deluges, and when the man went to pick
+it up, it was quite filled with water. "Scusi," said
+the Abbate. "Padronè," replied the peasant. The
+hackney coaches moreover only ply till five o'clock,
+so if you go to a party at night, it costs you a scudo.
+<em>Fiat justitia et pereat mundus</em>&mdash;Rome in rainy
+weather is vastly disagreeable.</p>
+
+<p>I see by a letter of Devrient's, that one I wrote
+to him from Venice, and which I took to the post
+myself on the 17th of October, had not reached
+him on the 19th of November. It would appear
+also, that another which I sent the same day to
+Munich had not arrived; both these letters contained
+music, and this accounts for the loss. At
+that very time in Venice they carried off all my
+manuscripts to the Custom-house, after visiting my
+effects at night, shortly before the departure of the
+post, and I only received them again here, after
+much worry and writing backwards and forwards.
+Every one assured me that the cause of this was a
+secret correspondence being suspected in cipher in
+the manuscript music. I could scarcely credit such
+intolerable stupidity; but as my two letters from
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_97"> 97</a></span>
+Venice containing music have not arrived, and
+these only, the thing is clear enough. I intend
+to complain of this to the Austrian ambassador
+here, but it will do no good, and the letters are
+lost, which I much regret. Farewell!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Rome, January 17th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>For a week past we have had the most lovely
+spring weather. Young girls are carrying about
+nosegays of violets and anemones, which they
+gather early in the morning at the Villa Pamfili.
+The streets and squares swarm with gaily attired
+pedestrians; the Ave Maria has already been
+advanced twenty minutes, but what is become of
+the winter? Some little time ago it indeed reminded
+me of my work, to which I now mean to
+apply steadily, for I own that during the gay social
+life of the previous weeks, I had rather neglected
+it. I have nearly completed the arrangement of
+"Solomon," and also my Christmas anthem, which
+consists of five numbers; the two symphonies also
+begin to assume a more definite form, and I particularly
+wish to finish them here. Probably I shall be
+able to accomplish this during Lent, when parties
+cease (especially balls) and spring begins, and then
+I shall have both time and inclination to compose,
+in which case I hope to have a good store of new
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98"> 98</a></span>
+works. Any performance of them here is quite out
+of the question. The orchestras are worse than
+any one could believe; both musicians, and a right
+feeling for music, are wanting. The two or three
+violin performers play just as they choose, and join
+in when they please; the wind instruments are
+tuned either too high or too low; and they execute
+flourishes like those we are accustomed to hear in
+farm-yards, but hardly so good; in short the whole
+forms a Dutch concert, and this applies even to compositions
+with which they are familiar.</p>
+
+<p>The question is, whether all this could be radically
+reformed by introducing other people into the
+orchestra, by teaching the musicians time, and by
+instructing them in first principles. I think in that
+case the people would no doubt take pleasure in it;
+so long, however, as this is not done, no improvement
+can be hoped for, and every one seems so indifferent
+on the subject, that there is not the
+slightest prospect of such a thing. I heard a solo
+on the flute, where the flute was more than a quarter
+of a tone too high; it set my teeth on edge, but no
+one remarked it, and when at the end a shake
+came, they applauded mechanically. If it were
+even a shade better with regard to singing! The
+great singers have left the country. Lablache,
+David, Lalande, Pisaroni, etc., sing in Paris, and
+the minor ones who remain, copy their inspired
+moments, which they caricature in the most insupportable
+manner.</p>
+
+<p>We in Germany may perhaps wish to accomplish
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99"> 99</a></span>
+something false or impossible, but it is, and always
+will be, quite <em>dissimilar</em>; and just as a <em>cicisbeo</em>
+will for ever be odious and repulsive to my feelings,
+so is it also with Italian music. I may be too
+obtuse to comprehend either; but I shall never feel
+otherwise; and recently, at the Philharmonic, after
+the music of Pacini and Bellini, when the Cavaliere
+Ricci begged me to accompany him in "Non più
+andrai," the very first notes were so utterly different
+and so infinitely remote from all the previous music,
+that the matter was clear to me then, and never will
+it be equalized, so long as there is such a blue sky,
+and such a charming winter as the present. In the
+same way the Swiss can paint no beautiful scenery,
+precisely because they have it the whole day before
+their eyes. "Les Allemands traitent la musique
+comme une affaire d'état," says Spontini, and I
+accept the axiom. I lately heard some musicians
+here talking of their composers, and I listened in
+silence. One quoted &mdash;&mdash;, but the others interrupted
+him, saying he could not be considered an
+Italian, for the German school still clung to him,
+and he had never been able to get rid of it; consequently
+he had never been at home in Italy: we
+Germans say precisely the reverse of him, and it
+must be not a little trying to find yourself so <em>entre
+deux</em>, and without any fatherland. So far as I am
+concerned I stick to my own colours, which are
+quite honourable enough for me.</p>
+
+<p>Last night a theatre that Torlonia has undertaken
+and organized, was opened with a new opera of Pacini's.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100"> 100</a></span>
+The crowd was great, and every box filled
+with handsome, well-dressed people; young Torlonia
+appeared in a stage-box with his mother, the old
+Duchess, and they were immensely applauded. The
+audience called out <em>Bravo, Torlonia, grazie, grazie!</em>
+Opposite to him was Jerome, with his suite, and
+covered with orders: in the next box Countess
+Samoilow, etc. Over the orchestra is a picture of
+Time pointing to the dial of the clock, which revolves
+slowly, and is enough to make any one melancholy.
+Pacini then appeared at the piano, and was
+kindly welcomed. He had prepared no overture, so
+the opera began with a chorus, accompanied by
+strokes on an anvil tuned in the proper key. The
+Corsair came forward, sang his <em>aria</em>, and was applauded,
+on which the Corsair above, and the
+Maestro below, bowed (this pirate is a contralto,
+and sung by Mademoiselle Mariani); a variety of
+airs followed, and the piece became very tiresome.
+This seemed to be also the opinion of the public, for
+when Pacini's grand <em>finale</em> began, the whole pit
+stood up, talking to each other as loud as they
+could, laughing and turning their backs on the stage.
+Madame Samoilow fainted in her box, and was carried
+out. Pacini glided away from the piano, and
+at the end of the act, the curtain fell in the midst
+of a great tumult. Then came the grand ballet of
+<em>Barbe Bleue</em>, followed by the last act of the opera.
+As the audience were now in a mood for it, they
+hissed the whole ballet from the very beginning, and
+accompanied the second act also with hooting and
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101"> 101</a></span>
+laughter. At the close Torlonia was called for, but
+he would not appear.</p>
+
+<p>This is the matter-of-fact narrative of a first performance
+at the opening of a theatre in Rome. I had
+anticipated much amusement, so I came away considerably
+out of humour; still, if the music had made
+<em>furore</em>, I should have been very indignant, for it is
+so wretched that it really is beneath all criticism.
+But that they should turn their backs on their favourite
+Pacini, whom they wished to crown in the
+Capitol, parody his melodies, and sing them in a
+ludicrous style, this does, I confess, provoke me not
+a little, and is likewise a proof of how low such a
+musician stands in the public opinion. Another
+time they will carry him home on their shoulders;
+but this is no compensation. They would not act
+thus in France with regard to Boieldieu; independent
+of all love of art, a sense of propriety would
+prevent their doing so: but enough of this subject,
+for it is too vexatious.</p>
+
+<p>Why should Italy still insist on being the land of
+Art, while it is in reality the Land of Nature, thus
+delighting every heart! I have already described
+to you my walks to the Monte Pincio. I continue
+them daily. I went lately with the Vollards to
+Ponte Nomentano, a solitary dilapidated bridge in
+the spacious green Campagna. Many ruins from
+the days of ancient Rome, and many watch-towers
+from the Middle Ages, are scattered over this long
+succession of meadows; chains of hills rise towards
+the horizon, now partially covered with snow, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_102"> 102</a></span>
+fantastically varied in form and colour by the
+shadows of the clouds. And there is also the enchanting,
+vapoury vision of the Alban hills, which
+change their hues like a chameleon, as you gaze at
+them,&mdash;where you can see for miles little white
+chapels glittering on the dark ground of the hills,
+as far as the Passionist Convent on the summit,
+and whence you can trace the road winding through
+thickets, and the hills sloping downwards to the
+Lake of Albano, while a hermitage peeps through
+the trees. The distance is equal to that from Berlin
+to Potsdam, say I as a good Berliner; but that
+it is a lovely vision, I say in earnest. No lack of
+music <em>there</em>; it echoes and vibrates <em>there</em> on every
+side; not in the vapid, tasteless theatres. So we
+rambled about, chasing each other in the Campagna,
+and jumping over the fences, and when the sun went
+down we drove home, feeling so weary, and yet so self-satisfied
+and pleased, as if we had done great things;
+and so we have, if we <em>rightly appreciated</em> it all.</p>
+
+<p>I have now applied myself again to drawing, and
+have latterly put in some tints, as I should be glad
+to be able to recall some of these bright hues, and
+practice quickens the perceptions. I must now
+tell you, dear mother, of a great, very great pleasure
+I recently enjoyed, because you will rejoice with
+me. Two days ago I was for the first time in a
+small circle with Horace Vernet, and played there.
+He had previously told me that his most favourite
+and esteemed music was "Don Juan," especially
+the Duet and the Commendatore at the end; and as
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_103"> 103</a></span>
+I highly approved of such sentiments on his part,
+the result was, that while playing a prelude to
+Weber's <em>Concert-Stück</em>, I imperceptibly glided further
+into extemporizing&mdash;thought I would please
+him by taking these themes, and so I worked them
+up fancifully for some time. This caused him a
+degree of delight far beyond what I ever knew my
+music produce in any one, and we became at once
+more intimate. Afterwards he suddenly came up
+to me, and whispered that we must make an exchange,
+for that he also was an improvisatore; and
+when I was naturally curious to know what he
+meant, he said it was his secret. He is however
+like a little child, and could not conceal it for more
+than a quarter of an hour, when he came in again,
+and taking me into the next room, he asked me if I
+had any time to spare, as he had stretched and
+prepared a canvas, and proposed painting my portrait
+on it, which I was to keep in memory of this
+day, or roll it up and send it to you, or take it with
+me, just as I chose. He said he should have no
+easy task with his improvisation, but at all events
+he would attempt it. I was only too glad to give
+my consent, and cannot tell you how much I was
+enchanted with the delight and enthusiasm he evidently
+felt in my playing.</p>
+
+<p>It was in every respect a happy evening; as I
+ascended the hill with him, all was so still and
+peaceful, and only one window lit up in the large
+dark villa.<a name="FNanchor_12" id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> Fragments of music floated on the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_104"> 104</a></span>
+air, and its echoes in the dark night, mingled with
+the murmuring of fountains, were sweeter than I can
+describe. Two young students were drilling in the
+anteroom, while the third acted the part of lieutenant,
+and commanded in good form. In another
+room my friend Montfort, who gained the prize for
+music in the Conservatorium, was seated at a piano,
+and others were standing round, singing a chorus;
+but it went very badly. They urged another young
+man to join them, and when he said that he did not
+know how to sing, his friend rejoined, "Qu'est-ce
+que ça fait? c'est toujours une voix de plus!" I
+helped them as I best could, and we were well
+amused. Afterwards we danced, and I wish you
+could have seen Louisa Vernet dancing the Saltarella
+with her father. When at length she was
+forced to stop for a few moments, and snatched up
+a tambourine, playing with the utmost spirit,
+and relieving us, who could really scarcely any
+longer move our hands, I wished I had been a
+painter, for what a superb picture she would have
+made! Her mother is the kindest creature in the
+world, and the grandfather, Charles Vernet (who
+paints such splendid horses), danced a quadrille the
+same evening with so much ease, making so many
+<em>entrechats</em>, and varying his steps so gracefully, that
+it is a sad pity he should actually be seventy-two
+years of age. Every day he rides, and tires out two
+horses, paints and draws a little, and spends the
+evening in society.</p>
+
+<p>In my next letter I must tell you of my acquaintance
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_105"> 105</a></span>
+with Robert, who has just finished an admirable
+picture, "The Harvest," and also describe my
+recent visits with Bunsen to the studios of Cornelius,
+Koch, Overbeck, etc. My time is fully occupied,
+for there is plenty to do and to see; unluckily I cannot
+make time elastic, however much I may strive to
+extend it. I have as yet said nothing of Raphael's
+portrait as a child, and Titian's "Nymphs Bathing,"
+who in a piquant enough fashion are designated
+"Sacred and Profane Love," one being in full gala
+costume, while the other is devoid of all drapery,<a name="FNanchor_13" id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>
+or of my exquisite "Madonna di Foligno," or of
+Francesco Francia, the most guileless and devout
+painter in the world; or of poor Guido Reni, whom
+the bearded painters of the present day treat with
+such contempt, and yet he painted a certain Aurora,
+and many other splendid objects besides; but what
+avails description? It is well for me that I can
+revel in the sight of them. When we meet, I may
+perhaps be able to give you a better idea of them.</p>
+
+<p class="right">Your <span class="smcap">Felix</span>.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+
+<h3><a name="Rome_February_1st_1831" id="Rome_February_1st_1831"></a>Rome, February 1st, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>I intended not to write to you till my birthday, but
+possibly two days hence I may not be in a writing
+mood, and must drive all fancies away by hard work.
+It does not seem probable that the Papal military
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_106"> 106</a></span>
+band will surprise me in the morning,<a name="FNanchor_14" id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> and as I
+have told all my acquaintances that I was born on
+the 25th, I think the day will glide quietly by; I
+prefer this to a trivial half-and-half celebration. I
+will place your portrait before me in the morning,
+and feel happy in looking at it and in thinking of
+you. I shall then play over my military overture,
+and select my favourite dish for dinner, from the
+<em>carte</em> at the <em>Lepre</em>. It is not unprofitable to be
+obliged to do all this for one's self, both on birthdays
+and other days. I feel isolated enough, and am
+rather partial to the other extreme. At night the
+Torlonias are so obliging as to give a ball to eight
+hundred persons; on Wednesday, the day before,
+and on Friday, the day after my birthday, I am invited
+to the house of some English friends. During
+the previous week, I have been busily engaged in
+sight-seeing, and revisited many well-known objects;&mdash;thus
+I was in the Vatican, the Farnesina, Corsini,
+the Villa Lante, Borghese, etc. Two days ago I
+saw the frescoes for the first time in Bartholdy's
+house;<a name="FNanchor_15" id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> inasmuch as the English ladies who reside
+there, and who have transformed the painted saloon
+into a sleeping apartment, with a four-post bed,
+would never hitherto permit me to enter it. So this
+was my first visit to my uncle's house, where at last
+I saw his pictures, and the view of the city. It was
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_107"> 107</a></span>
+a noble, regal idea to have these frescoes; and the
+execution of such a sublime thought, in spite of every
+kind of impediment and annoyance, simply in order
+that the design should be carried out, seems to me
+very charming.</p>
+
+<p>But to turn to an entirely different subject. In
+many circles here, it is the fashion to consider piety
+and dulness synonymous, and yet they are very different;
+our German clergyman here is not behindhand
+in this respect. There are men in Rome with
+an amount of fanaticism credible in the sixteenth
+century, but quite monstrous in the present day;
+they all wish to make converts, abusing each other
+in a Christian manner, and each ridiculing the belief
+of his neighbour, till it is quite too sad to hear them.
+As if to have simplicity, and to be simple, were the
+same thing! Unfortunately I must here retract my
+favourite axiom, that <em>goodwill</em> can effect all things,
+<em>ability</em> must accompany it; but I am soaring too
+high, and my father will lecture me. I wish this
+letter were better, but we have snow on the ground;
+the roofs in the Piazza di Spagna are quite white,
+and heavy clouds of snow are gathering; nothing
+can be more odious to us Southerners, and we are
+freezing. The Monte Pincio is a mass of ice. Your
+Northern Lights have their revenge on us. Who
+can write or think with any degree of warmth? I
+was so pleased at the idea of being a whole winter
+without snow, but now I must give up that notion.
+The Italians say that spring breezes will come in a
+few days; then gay life, and gay letters, will be resumed.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_108"> 108</a></span>
+Farewell! may you enjoy every good, and
+think of me.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Rome, February 8th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>The Pope is elected: the Pope is crowned. He
+performed mass in St. Peter's on Sunday, and conferred
+his benediction; in the evening the dome
+was illuminated, succeeded by the Girandola; the
+Carnival began on Saturday, and pursues its headlong
+course in the most motley forms. The city
+has been illuminated each evening. Last night
+there was a ball at the French Embassy; to-day the
+Spanish Ambassador gives a grand entertainment.
+Next door to me they sell <em>confetti</em>, and how they do
+shout! And now I might as well stop, for why
+attempt to describe what is, in fact, indescribable?
+You ought to make Hensel tell you of these splendid
+<em>fêtes</em>, which in pomp, brilliancy, and animation,
+surpass all the imagination can conceive, for my
+sober pen is not equal to the task. What a different
+aspect everything has assumed during the last
+eight days, for now the mildest and most genial sun
+is shining, and we remain in the balcony enjoying
+the air till after sunset. Oh, that I could enclose
+for you, in this letter, only one quarter of an hour of
+all this pleasure, or tell you how life actually flies in
+Rome, every minute bringing its own memorable delights!
+It is not difficult to give <em>fêtes</em> here; if the
+simple architectural outlines are lighted up, the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_109"> 109</a></span>
+dome of St. Peter's blazes forth in the dark purple
+atmosphere, calmly shining. If there are fireworks,
+they brighten the gloomy solid walls of the Castle
+of St. Angelo, and fall into the Tiber; when they
+commence their fantastic <em>fêtes</em> in February, the most
+lustrous sun shines down on them and beautifies
+them. It is a wondrous land.</p>
+
+<p>But I must not forget to tell you that I spent my
+birthday very differently from what I expected. I
+must however be brief, for an hour hence I go to
+join the Carnival in the Corso. My birthday had
+three celebrations&mdash;the eve, the birthday itself, and
+the day after. On the 2nd of February, Santini
+was sitting in my room in the morning, and in
+answer to my impatient questions about the Conclave,
+he replied with a diplomatic air, that there
+was little chance of a Pope being elected before
+Easter. Herr Brisbane also called, and told me
+that after leaving Berlin, he had been in Constantinople,
+and Smyrna, etc., and inquired after all his
+acquaintances in Berlin, when suddenly the report
+of a cannon was heard, and then another, and the
+people rushed across the Piazza di Spagna, shouting
+with all their might. We three started off, Heaven
+knows how, and ran breathlessly to the Quirinal,
+where the man was just retreating, who had shouted
+through a broken window&mdash;"Annuncio vobis gaudium
+magnum; habemus Papam R. E. dominum
+Capellari, qui nomen assumsit Gregorius XVI."
+All the Cardinals now crowded into the balcony, to
+breathe fresh air, and laughed, and talked together
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_110"> 110</a></span>
+It was the first time they had been in the open air
+for fifty days, and yet they looked so gay, their red
+caps shining brightly in the sun; the whole Piazza
+was filled with people, who clambered on the obelisk,
+and on the horses of Phidias, and the statues projected
+far above in the air. Carriage after carriage
+drove up, amid jostling and shouting. Then the
+new Pope appeared, and before him was borne the
+golden cross, and he blessed the crowd for the first
+time, while the people at the same moment prayed,
+and cried "Hurrah!" All the bells in Rome were
+ringing, and there was firing of cannons, and flourishes
+of trumpets, and military music. This was
+the <em>eve</em> of my birthday.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning I followed the crowd down the long
+street to the Piazza of St. Peter's, which looked
+finer than I had ever seen it, lit up brightly by the
+sun, and swarming with carriages; the Cardinals in
+their red coaches, driving in state to the sacristy,
+with servants in embroidered liveries, and people
+innumerable, of every nation, rank, and condition;
+and high above them the dome and the church
+seeming to float in blue vapour, for there was considerable
+mist in the morning air. And I thought
+that Capellari would probably appropriate all this
+to himself when he saw it; but I knew better. It
+was all to celebrate my birthday; and the election of
+the Pope, and the homage, a mere spectacle in honour
+of me; but it was well and naturally performed; and
+so long as I live. I shall never forget it.</p>
+
+<p>The Church of St. Peter's was crowded to the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_111"> 111</a></span>
+door. The Pope was borne in on his throne, and
+fans of peacocks' feathers carried before him, and
+then set down on the High Altar, when the Papal
+singers intoned, "<em>Tu es sacerdos magnus</em>." I only
+heard two or three chords, but it required no more;
+the sound was enough. Then one Cardinal succeeded
+another, kissing the Pope's foot and his
+hands, when he in turn embraced them. After surveying
+all this for a time, standing closely pressed
+by a crowd, and unable to move, to look suddenly
+aloft to the dome, as far as the lantern, inspires a
+singular sensation. I was with Diodati, among a
+throng of Capuchins; these saintly men are far from
+being devotional on an occasion of this kind, and by
+no means cleanly. But I must hasten on; the Carnival
+is beginning, and I must not lose any portion
+of it.</p>
+
+<p>At night, (in honour of my birthday,) barrels of
+pitch were burned in all the streets, and the Propaganda
+illuminated. The people thought this was
+owing to its being the former residence of the Pope,
+but <em>I</em> knew it was because I lived exactly opposite,
+and I had only to lean out of my window to enjoy it
+all. Then came Torlonia's ball, and in every corner
+were seen glimpses of red caps above, and red stockings
+below. The following day they worked very
+hard at scaffoldings, platforms, and stages for the
+Carnival; edicts were posted up about horse-racing,
+and specimens of masks were displayed at the
+windows, and (in celebration of the day following my
+birthday) the illumination of the dome, and the Girandola
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_112"> 112</a></span>
+were fixed for Sunday. On Saturday all the
+world went to the Capitol, to witness the form of the
+Jews' supplications to be suffered to remain in the
+Sacred City for another year; a request which is
+refused at the foot of the hill, but after repeated
+entreaties, granted on the summit, and the Ghetto is
+assigned to them. It was a tiresome affair; we
+waited two hours, and after all, understood the
+oration of the Jews as little as the answer of the
+Christians. I came down again in very bad humour,
+and thought that the Carnival had commenced
+rather unpropitiously. So I arrived in the Corso
+and was driving along, thinking no evil, when I was
+suddenly assailed by a shower of sugar comfits. I
+looked up; they had been flung by some young ladies
+whom I had seen occasionally at balls, but scarcely
+knew, and when in my embarrassment I took off my
+hat to bow to them, the pelting began in right earnest.
+Their carriage drove on, and in the next was Miss
+T&mdash;&mdash;, a delicate young Englishwoman. I tried to
+bow to her, but she pelted me too, so I became quite
+desperate, and clutching the <em>confetti</em>, I flung them
+back bravely; there were swarms of my acquaintances,
+and my blue coat was soon as white as that of
+a miller. The B&mdash;&mdash;s were standing on a balcony,
+flinging <em>confetti</em> like hail at my head; and thus pelting
+and pelted, amid a thousand jests and jeers, and
+the most extravagant masks, the day ended with
+races.</p>
+
+<p>The following day there was no carnival, but as a
+compensation, the Pope conferred his benediction
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_113"> 113</a></span>
+from the Loggia, in the Piazza of St. Peter's; he
+was consecrated as Bishop in the Church, and at
+night the dome was lighted up. The sudden, nay
+<em>instantaneous</em> change the illumination of the building
+effects, you must ask Hensel to paint or to describe,
+whichever he prefers. Nothing can be more startling
+than the sudden and surprising vision, of so many
+hundred human beings, previously invisible, now revealed
+as it were in the air, working and moving
+about&mdash;and the glorious Girandola,&mdash;but who can
+conceive it! Now the gaieties recommence. Farewell!
+in my next letter I mean to continue my description.
+Yesterday, at the Carnival, flowers and
+<em>bonbons</em> were indiscriminately thrown, and a mask
+gave me a bouquet, which I have dried, and mean to
+bring home for you. All idea of occupation is out
+of the question at present; I have only composed
+one little song; but when Lent comes, I intend to be
+more industrious. Who can at such a moment think
+either of writing or music? I must go out, so farewell,
+dear ones.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Rome, February 22nd, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>A thousand thanks for your letter of the 8th,
+which I received yesterday, on my return from
+Tivoli. I cannot tell you, dear Fanny, how much I
+am delighted with your plan about the Sunday music.
+This idea of yours is most brilliant, and I do entreat
+of you, for Heaven's sake, not to let it die away
+again; on the contrary, pray give your travelling
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_114"> 114</a></span>
+brother a commission to write something new for
+you. He will gladly do so, for he is quite charmed
+with you, and with your project. You must let me
+know what voices you have, and also take counsel
+with your subjects as to what they like best (for
+the people, O Fanny, have rights). I think it
+would be a good plan to place before them something
+easy, interesting and pleasing,&mdash;for instance,
+the Litany of Sebastian Bach. But to speak seriously,
+I recommend the "Shepherd of Israel," or
+the "Dixit Dominus," of Hændel.</p>
+
+<p>Do you mean to play something during the intervals
+to these people? I think this would not be
+unprofitable to either party, for they must have time
+to take breath, and you must study the piano, and
+thus it would become a vocal and instrumental concert.
+I wish so much that I could be one of the
+audience, and compliment you afterwards. Be discreet
+and indulgent, and avoid fatiguing either
+yourself or the voices of your singers. Do not be
+irritable when things go badly; say very little on the
+subject to any one. Lastly, above all, endeavour to
+prevent the choir feeling any tedium, for this is the
+principal point. One of my pieces certainly owes
+its birth to this Sunday music. When you wrote to
+me about it lately, I reflected whether there was anything
+I could send you, thus reviving an old favourite
+scheme of mine, which has however now assumed
+such vast proportions, that I cannot let you have
+any part of it by E&mdash;&mdash;, but you shall have it at
+some future time.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_115"> 115</a></span>
+Listen and wonder! Since I left Vienna I have
+partly composed Goethe's first "Walpurgis Night,"
+but have not yet had courage to write it down. The
+composition has now assumed a form, and become
+a grand Cantata, with full orchestra, and may turn
+out well. At the opening there are songs of spring,
+etc., and plenty of others of the same kind. Afterwards,
+when the watchmen with their "Gabeln, und
+Zacken, und Eulen," make a great noise, the fairy
+frolics begin, and you know that I have a particular
+foible for them; the sacrificial Druids then appear,
+with their trombones in C major, when the watchmen
+come in again in alarm, and here I mean to
+introduce a light mysterious tripping chorus; and
+lastly to conclude with a grand sacrificial hymn.
+Do you not think that this might develop into a
+new style of Cantata? I have an instrumental introduction,
+as a matter of course, and the effect of
+the whole is very spirited. I hope it will soon be
+finished. I have once more begun to compose with
+fresh vigour, and the Italian symphony makes rapid
+progress; it will be the most sportive piece I have
+yet composed, especially the last movement. I
+have not yet decided on the <em>adagio</em>, and think I
+shall reserve it for Naples. "Verleih uns Frieden"
+is completed, and "Wir glauben all" will also be
+ready in a few days. The Scotch symphony alone
+is not yet quite to my liking; if any brilliant idea
+occurs to me, I will seize it at once, quickly write it
+down, and finish it at last.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_116"> 116</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Rome, March 1st, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>While I write this date, I shrink from the thought
+of how time flies. Before this month is at an end
+the Holy Week begins, and when it is over, my stay
+in Rome will be drawing to a close. I now try to
+reflect whether I have made the best use of my time,
+and on every side I perceive a deficiency. If I
+could only compass one of my two symphonies! I
+must and will reserve the Italian one till I have seen
+Naples, which must play a part in it, but the other
+also seems to elude my grasp; the more I try to
+seize it and the nearer the end of this delightful
+quiet Roman period approaches, the more am I perplexed,
+and the less do I seem to succeed. I feel as
+if it will be long indeed before I can write again as
+freely as here, and so I am eager to finish what I
+have to do, but I make no progress. The "Walpurgis
+Night" alone gets on quickly, and I hope it
+will soon be accomplished. Besides, I cannot resist
+every day sketching, that I may carry away with me
+reminiscences of my favourite haunts. There is still
+much that I wish to see, so I perfectly well know
+that this month will suddenly come to an end, and
+much remain undone; and indeed it is quite too
+beautiful here.</p>
+
+<p>Rome is considerably changed, and neither so gay
+nor so cheerful as formerly.<a name="FNanchor_16" id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> Almost all my acquaintances
+are gone; the promenades and streets
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_117"> 117</a></span>
+are deserted, the galleries closed, and it is impossible
+to gain admittance into them. All news from
+without almost entirely fails us, (for we saw the
+details about Bologna first in the 'Allgemeine
+Zeitung' yesterday;) people seldom or never congregate
+together; in fact, everything has subsided
+into entire rest; but then the weather is lovely, and
+no one can deprive us of this warm, balmy atmosphere.
+Those who are most to be pitied in the
+present state of affairs are the Vernet ladies, who
+are unpleasantly situated here. The hatred of the
+entire Roman populace is, strangely enough, directed
+against the French Pensionaries, believing that
+their influence alone could easily effect a revolution.
+Threatening anonymous letters have been repeatedly
+sent to Vernet; indeed he one day found an armed
+Transteverin stationed in front of the windows of
+his studio, who however took to flight when Vernet
+fetched his gun: and as the ladies are now entirely
+alone, and isolated in the villa, their family are
+naturally very uneasy. Still all continues quiet and
+serene within the city, and I am quite convinced it
+will remain so.</p>
+
+<p>The German painters are really more contemptible
+than I can tell you. Not only have they cut
+off their whiskers and moustaches, and their long
+hair and beards, openly declaring that as soon as all
+danger is at an end they will let them grow again,
+but these tall stalwart fellows go home as soon as it
+is dark, lock themselves in, and discuss their fears
+together. They call Horace Vernet a braggart,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_118"> 118</a></span>
+and yet he is very different from these miserable
+creatures, whose conduct makes me cordially despise
+them. Latterly I occasionally visited some of the
+modern studios. Thorwaldsen has just finished a
+statue in clay of Lord Byron. He is seated amidst
+ancient ruins, his feet resting on the capital of a
+column, while he is gazing into the distance,
+evidently about to write something on the tablets
+he holds in his hand. He is represented not in
+Roman costume, but in a simple modern dress, and
+I think it looks well, and does not destroy the
+general effect. The statue has the natural air and
+easy pose so remarkable in all this sculptor's works,
+and yet the poet looks sufficiently gloomy and
+elegiac, though not affected. I must some day write
+you a whole letter about the 'Triumph of Alexander,'
+for never did any piece of sculpture make
+such an impression on me; I go there every week,
+and stand gazing at that alone, and enter Babylon
+along with the Conqueror. I lately called on
+A&mdash;&mdash;; he has brought with him some admirable
+pencil sketches from Naples and Sicily, so I should
+be glad to take some hints from him, but I fear that
+he is a considerable exaggerator, and does not
+sketch faithfully. His landscape of the Colosseum,
+at H. B., is a beautiful romance; for I cannot say
+that in the original I ever perceived woods of large
+cypresses and orange-trees, or fountains or thickets
+in the centre, extending to the ruins. Moreover,
+<em>his</em> moustaches have also disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>I have something amusing to tell you in conclusion.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_119"> 119</a></span>
+I wish, O my Fanny, that as a contrast to
+your Sunday harmony you had heard the music we
+perpetrated last Sunday evening. We wished to
+sing the Psalms of Marcello, being Lent, and the
+best dilettanti consequently assembled. A Papal
+singer was in the middle, a <em>maestro</em> at the piano,
+and we sang. When a soprano solo came, all the
+ladies pressed forward, each insisting on singing it,
+so it was executed as a <em>tutti</em>. The tenor by my side
+never alighted on the right note, and rambled about
+in the most insecure regions. When I chimed in as
+second tenor, he dropped into my part, and when I
+tried to assist him, he seemed to think that was my
+original part, and kept steadily to his own. The
+Papal singer at one instant sang in the soprano
+falsetto, and presently took the first bass; soon
+after he quaked out the <em>alt</em>, and when all that was
+of no avail, he smiled sorrowfully across at me, and
+we nodded mysteriously to each other. The <em>maestro</em>,
+in striving to set us all right, repeatedly lost his
+own place, being a bar behind, or one in advance,
+and thus we sang with the most complete anarchy,
+just as we thought fit. Suddenly came a very
+solemn solo passage for the bass, which <em>all</em> attacked
+valiantly, but at the second bar broke into a chorus
+of loud laughter, in which we unanimously joined,
+so the affair ended in high good-humour. The
+people who had come as audience talked at the
+pitch of their voices, and then went out and dispersed.
+Eynard came in and listened to our music
+for a time, then made a horrid grimace, and was
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_120"> 120</a></span>
+seen no more. Farewell! Health and happiness
+attend you all!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Rome, March 15th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>The letters of introduction that R&mdash;&mdash; sent me,
+have been of no use to me here. L&mdash;&mdash; likewise,
+to whom I was presented by Bunsen, has not taken
+the smallest notice of me, and tries to look the
+other way when we meet. I rather suspect the
+man is an aristocrat. Albani admitted me, so I
+had the honour of conversing for half an hour with
+a Cardinal. After reading the introductory letter,
+he asked me if I was a pensioner of the King of
+Hanover. "No," said I. He supposed that I must
+have seen St. Peter's? "Yes," said I. As I knew
+Meyerbeer, he assured me that he could not endure
+his music; it was too scientific for him; indeed,
+everything he wrote was so learned, and so devoid
+of melody, that you at once saw that he was a
+German, and the Germans, <em>mon ami</em>, have not the
+most remote conception of what melody is! "No,"
+said I. "In <em>my</em> scores," continued he, "all sing; not
+only the voices sing, but also the first violin sings,
+and the second violin also, and the oboe sings, and
+so it goes on, even to the horns, and last of all the
+double-bass sings too." I was naturally desirous, in
+all humility, to see some of his music; he was
+modest, however, and would show me nothing, but
+he said that wishing to make my stay in Rome a
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_121"> 121</a></span>
+agreeable as possible, he hoped I would pay a visit
+to his villa, and I might take as many of my
+friends with me as I chose. It was near such and
+such a place. I thanked him very much, and subsequently
+boasted considerably of this gracious
+permission; but presently discovered that this villa
+is open to the public, and any one can go there
+who chooses. Since that time I have heard no
+more of him, and as this and some other instances
+have inspired me with respect, mingled with aversion,
+towards the highest Roman circles, I resolved
+not to deliver the letter to Gabrielli, and was satisfied
+by having the whole Bonaparte family pointed
+out to me on the promenade, where I met them
+daily.</p>
+
+<p>I think Mizkiewicz very tiresome. He possesses
+that kind of indifference which bores both himself
+and others, though the ladies persist in designating
+it melancholy and lassitude; but this makes it no
+better in my eyes. If he looks at St. Peter's, he deplores
+the times of the hierarchy; if the sky is blue
+and beautiful, he wishes it were dull and gloomy; if
+it is gloomy, he is freezing; if he sees the Colosseum,
+he wishes he had lived at that period. I wonder
+what sort of a figure he would have made in the days
+of Titus!</p>
+
+<p>You inquire about Horace Vernet, and this is,
+indeed, a pleasant theme. I believe I may say that
+I have learned something from him, and every one
+may do the same. He produces with incredible
+facility and freshness. When a form meets his eye
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_122"> 122</a></span>
+which touches his feelings, he instantly adopts it,
+and while others are deliberating whether it can be
+called beautiful, and praising or censuring, he has
+long completed his work, entirely deranging our
+æsthetical standard. Though this facility cannot be
+acquired, still its principle is admirable, and the
+serenity which springs from it, and the energy it
+calls forth in working, nothing else can replace.</p>
+
+<p>Among the alleys of evergreen trees, where at this
+season of blossoms the fragrance is so charming, in
+the midst of the shrubberies and gardens of the Villa
+Medicis, stands a small house, in which as you approach
+you invariably hear a tumult,&mdash;shouting and
+wrangling, or a piece executed on a trumpet, or the
+barking of dogs; this is Vernet's <em>atelier</em>. The most
+picturesque disorder everywhere prevails; guns, a
+hunting-horn, a monkey, palettes, a couple of dead
+hares or rabbits; the walls covered with pictures,
+finished and unfinished. "The Investiture of the
+National Cockade" (an eccentric picture which does
+not please me), portraits recently begun of Thorwaldsen,
+Eynard, Latour-Maubourg, some horses, a
+sketch of Judith, and studies for it; the portrait of
+the Pope, a couple of Moorish heads, bagpipers,
+Papal soldiers, my unworthy self, Cain and Abel,
+and last of all a drawing of the interior of the place
+itself, all hang up in his studio.</p>
+
+<p>Lately his hands were quite full, owing to the
+number of portraits bespoken from him; but in the
+street, he saw one of the Campagna peasants, who
+are armed and mounted by Government, and ride
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_123"> 123</a></span>
+about Rome. The singular costume caught the
+artist's eye, and next day he began a picture representing
+a similar peasant, sitting on his horse in bad
+weather in the Campagna, and seizing his gun in
+order to take aim at some one with it; in the distance
+are visible a small troop of soldiers, and the desolate
+plain. The minute details of the weapon, where the
+peasant peeps through the soldier's uniform, the
+wretched horse and its shabby trappings, the discomfort
+prevalent throughout, and the Italian
+phlegm in the bearded fellow, make a charming little
+picture; and no one can help envying him, who sees
+the real delight with which his brush traverses the
+stretched canvas, at one moment putting in a little
+rivulet, and a couple of soldiers, and a button on the
+saddle; then lining the soldier's great-coat with
+green. Numbers of people come to look on: during
+my first sitting twenty persons, at least, arrived one
+after the other. Countess E&mdash;&mdash; asked him to allow
+her to be present when he was at work; but when he
+darted on it as a hungry man does on food, her
+amazement was great. The whole family are, as I
+told you, good people, and when old Charles talks
+about his father Joseph, you must feel respect for
+them, and I maintain that they are noble. Good-bye,
+for it is late, and I must send my letter to the Post.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_124"> 124</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Rome, March 29th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>In the midst of the Holy Week. To-morrow for
+the first time I am to hear the Miserere, and while
+you last Sunday performed "The Passion," the Cardinals
+and all the priesthood here received twisted
+palms and olive-branches. The Stabat Mater of
+Palestrina was sung, and there was a grand procession.
+My work has got on badly during the last
+few days. Spring is in all her bloom; a genial blue
+sky without, such as we at most only dream of,
+and a journey to Naples in my every thought; so
+even a quiet time to write is not to be found. C&mdash;&mdash;,
+who is usually a cool fellow, has written me such a
+glowing letter from Naples! The most prosaic men
+become poetical when they speak of it. The finest
+season of the year in Italy, is from the 15th of April
+to the 15th of May. Who can wonder that I find it
+impossible to return to my misty Scotch mood? I
+have therefore laid aside the Scotch symphony for
+the present, but hope to write out the "Walpurgis
+Night" here. I shall manage to do so if I work hard
+to-day and to-morrow, and if we have bad weather,
+for really a fine day is too great a temptation. As
+soon as an impediment occurs, I hope to find some
+resource in the open air, so I go out and think of
+anything and everything but my composition, and do
+nothing but lounge about, and when the church bells
+begin to ring, it is the Ave Maria already. All I
+want now is a short overture. If I can accomplish
+this, the thing is complete, and I can write it out in a
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_125"> 125</a></span>
+couple of days. Then I have done with music, and
+leaving all music-paper here, I shall go off to Naples,
+where, please God, I mean to do nothing.</p>
+
+<p>Two French friends of mine have tempted me to
+<em>flâner</em> with them a good deal of late. When they
+are together, it is either a perpetual tragedy, or
+comedy,&mdash;as you will. Y&mdash;&mdash; distorts everything,
+without a spark of talent, always groping in the
+dark, but esteeming himself the creator of a new
+world; writing moreover the most frightful things,
+and yet dreaming and thinking of nothing but
+Beethoven, Schiller, and Goethe; a victim at the
+same time to the most boundless vanity, and looking
+down condescendingly on Mozart and Haydn, so
+that all his enthusiasm seems to me very doubtful.
+Z&mdash;&mdash; has been toiling for three months at a little
+rondo on a Portuguese theme; he arranges neatly
+and brilliantly, and according to rule, and he now
+intends to set about composing six waltzes, and is
+in a state of perfect ecstasy if I will only play him
+over a number of Vienna waltzes. He has a high
+esteem for Beethoven, but also for Rossini and for
+Bellini, and no doubt for Auber,&mdash;in short, for
+everybody. Then my turn comes to be praised,
+who would be only too glad to murder Y&mdash;&mdash;, till
+he chances to eulogize Gluck, when I can quite
+agree with him. I like nevertheless to walk about
+with these two, for they are the only musicians
+here, and both very pleasant, amiable persons. All
+this forms an amusing contrast.</p>
+
+<p>You say, dear mother, that Y&mdash;&mdash; must have a
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_126"> 126</a></span>
+fixed aim in his art; but this is far from being my
+opinion. I believe he wishes to be married, and is
+in fact worse than the other, because he is by far
+the most affected of the two. I really cannot stand
+his obtrusive enthusiasm, and the gloomy despondency
+he assumes before ladies,&mdash;this stereotyped
+genius in black and white; and if he were not a
+Frenchman, (and it is always pleasant to associate
+with them, as they have invariably something interesting
+to say,) it would be beyond endurance. A
+week hence, I shall probably write you my last
+letter from Rome, and then you shall hear of me
+from Naples. It is still quite uncertain whether I
+go to Sicily or not; I almost think not, as in any
+event I must have recourse to a steamboat, and it
+is not yet settled that one is to go.</p>
+
+<p class="right">In haste, yours, <span class="smcap">Felix</span>.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<h3>Rome, April 4th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>The Holy Week is over, and my passport to
+Naples prepared. My room begins to look empty,
+and my winter in Rome is now among my reminiscences
+of the past. I intend to leave this in a few
+days, and my next letter (D. V.) shall be from
+Naples. Interesting and amusing as the winter in
+Rome has been, it has closed with a truly memorable
+week; for what I have seen and heard far
+surpassed my expectations, and being the conclusion,
+I will endeavour in this, my last letter from
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_127"> 127</a></span>
+Rome, to give you a full description of it all. People
+have often both zealously praised and censured
+the ceremonies of the Holy Week, and have yet
+omitted, as is often the case, the chief point, namely
+its perfection as a complete whole. My father may
+probably remember the description of Mdlle. de
+R&mdash;&mdash;, who after all only did what most people do,
+who write or talk about music and art, when in a
+hoarse and prosaic voice she attempted at dinner to
+give us some idea of the fine clear Papal choir.
+Many others have given the mere music, and been
+dissatisfied, because external adjuncts are required
+to produce the full effect. Those persons may be
+in the right; still so long as these indispensable
+externals are there, and especially in such entire
+perfection, so long will it impress others; and just
+as I feel convinced that place, time, order, the vast
+crowd of human beings awaiting in the most profound
+silence the moment for the music to begin,
+contribute largely to the effect, so do I contemn the
+idea of deliberately separating what ought in fact to
+be indivisible, and this for the purpose of exhibiting
+a certain portion, which may thus be depreciated.
+That man must be despicable indeed, on whom
+the devotion and reverence of a vast assemblage
+did not make a corresponding impression of devotion
+and reverence, even if they were worshipping
+the Golden Calf; let him alone destroy this, who
+can replace it by something better.</p>
+
+<p>Whether one person repeats it from another,
+whether it comes up to its great reputation, or is
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_128"> 128</a></span>
+merely the effect of the imagination, is quite the
+same thing. It suffices that we have a perfect
+totality, which has exercised the most powerful influence
+for centuries past, and still exercises it, and
+therefore I reverence it, as I do every species of real
+perfection. I leave it to theologians to pronounce
+on its religious influence, for the various opinions on
+that point are of no great value. There is more to
+be considered than the mere ceremonies: for me it
+is sufficient, as I already said, that in any sphere the
+object should be fully carried out, so far as ability
+will permit, with fidelity and conscientiousness, to
+call forth my respect and sympathy. Thus you must
+not expect from me a formal critique on the singing,
+as to whether they intoned correctly or incorrectly,
+in tune or out of tune, or whether the compositions
+are fine. I would rather strive to show you, that as
+a whole the affair cannot fail to make a solemn impression,
+and that everything contributes to this
+result, and as last week I enjoyed music, forms, and
+ceremonies, without severing them, revelling in the
+perfect whole, so I do not intend to separate them
+in this letter. The technical part, to which I naturally
+paid particular attention, I mean to detail more
+minutely to Zelter.</p>
+
+<p>The first ceremony was on Palm Sunday, when
+the concourse of people was so great, that I could
+not make my way through the crowd to my usual
+place on what is called the Prelates' Bench, but was
+forced to remain among the Guard of Honour,
+where indeed I had a very good view of the solemnities,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_129"> 129</a></span>
+but could not follow the singing properly, as
+they pronounced the words very indistinctly, and on
+that day I had no book. The result was that on this
+first day, the various antiphons, Gospels, and Psalms,
+and the mode of chanting, instead of reading, which
+is employed here in its primitive form, made the
+most confused and singular impression on me. I
+had no clear conception what rule they followed
+with regard to the various cadences. I took considerable
+pains gradually to discover their method,
+and succeeded so well, that at the end of the Holy
+Week I could have sung with them. I thus also
+escaped the extreme weariness, so universally complained
+of during the endless Psalms before the
+Miserere; for I quickly detected any variety in
+the monotony, and when perfectly assured of any particular
+cadence, I instantly wrote it down; so I made
+out by degrees (which indeed I deserved) the melodies
+of eight Psalms. I also noted down the antiphons,
+etc., and was thus incessantly occupied and interested.</p>
+
+<p>The first Sunday, however, as I already told you,
+I could not make it all out satisfactorily: I only
+knew that the choir sang "Hosanna in excelsis," and
+intoned various hymns, while twisted palms were
+offered to the Pope, which he distributed among the
+Cardinals. These palms are long branches decorated
+with buttons, crosses, and crowns, all entirely made
+of dried palm-leaves, which makes them look like
+gold. The Cardinals, who are seated in the Chapel
+in the form of a quadrangle, with the abbati at their
+feet, now advance each in turn to receive their
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_130"> 130</a></span>
+palms, with which they return to their places; then
+come the bishops, monks, abbati, and all the other
+orders of the priesthood; the Papal singers, the
+knights, and others, who receive olive-branches
+entwined with palm-leaves. This makes a long procession,
+during which the choir continues to sing
+unremittingly. The abbati hold the long palms of
+their cardinals like the lances of sentinels, slanting
+them on the ground before them, and at this moment
+there is a brilliancy of colour in the chapel that I
+never before saw at any ceremony. There were
+the Cardinals in their gold embroidered robes and
+red caps, and the violet abbati in front of them,
+with golden palms in their hands, and further in
+advance, the gaudy servants of the Pope, the Greek
+priests, the patriarchs in the most gorgeous attire;
+the Capuchins with long white beards, and all the
+other religious Orders; then again the Swiss, in
+their popinjay uniforms, all carrying green olive-branches,
+while singing is going on the whole time;
+though certainly it is scarcely possible to distinguish
+what is being sung, yet the mere sound is sufficient
+to delight the ear.</p>
+
+<p>The Pope's throne is then carried in, on which he
+is elevated in all processions, and where I saw Pius
+VIII. enthroned on the day of my arrival (<em>vide</em> the
+'Heliodorus' of Raphael, where he is portrayed).
+The Cardinals, two and two, with their palms, head
+the procession, and the folding doors of the chapel
+being thrown open, it slowly defiles through them.
+The singing, which has hitherto incessantly prevailed,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_131"> 131</a></span>
+like an element, becomes fainter and fainter, for the
+singers also walk in the procession, and at length are
+only indistinctly heard, the sound dying away in the
+distance. Then a choir in the chapel bursts forth
+with a query, to which the distant one breathes a
+faint response; and so it goes on for a time, till the
+procession again draws near, and the choirs reunite.
+Let them sing how or what they please, this cannot
+fail to produce a fine effect; and though it is quite
+true that nothing can be more monotonous, and even
+devoid of form, than the hymns <em>all' unisono</em>, being
+without any proper connection, and sung <em>fortissimo</em>
+throughout, still I appeal to the impression that as
+a <em>whole</em> it must make on every one. After the procession
+returns, the Gospel is chanted in the most
+singular tone, and is succeeded by the Mass. I must
+not omit here to make mention of my favourite moment;
+I mean the Credo. The priest takes his place
+for the first time in the centre, before the altar, and
+after a short pause, intones in his hoarse old voice
+the Credo of Sebastian Bach. When he has finished,
+the priests stand up, the Cardinals leave
+their seats, and advance into the middle of the
+chapel, where they form a circle, all repeating the
+continuation in a loud voice, "Patrem omnipotentem,"
+etc. The choir then chimes in, singing the
+same words. When I for the first time heard my
+well-known</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/149.jpg" width="300" height="64" alt="music149a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/149a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_132"> 132</a></span>
+and all the grave monks round me began to recite
+in loud and eager tones, I felt quite excited, for this
+is the moment I still like the best of all. After
+the ceremony, Santini made me a present of his
+olive-branch, which I carried in my hand the whole
+day when I was walking about, for the weather was
+beautiful. The Stabat Mater which succeeds the
+Credo, made much less effect; they sang it incorrectly
+and out of tune, and likewise curtailed it
+considerably. The 'Sing Akademie' executes it infinitely
+better. There is nothing on Monday or
+Tuesday; but on Wednesday, at half-past four, the
+nocturns begin.</p>
+
+<p>The Psalms are sung in alternate verses by two
+choirs, though invariably by one class of voices,
+basses or tenors. For an hour and a half, therefore,
+nothing but the most monotonous music is heard;
+the Psalms are only once interrupted by the Lamentations,
+and this is the first moment when, after a
+long time, a complete chord is given. This chord
+is very softly intoned, and the whole piece sung
+<em>pianissimo</em>, while the Psalms are shouted out as much
+as possible, and always upon one note, and the words
+uttered with the utmost rapidity, a cadence occurring
+at the end of each verse, which defines the
+different characteristics of the various melodies.
+It is not therefore surprising that the mere soft
+sound (in G major) of the first Lamentation, should
+produce so touching an effect. Once more the
+single tone recommences; a wax light is extinguished
+at the end of each Psalm, so that in the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_133"> 133</a></span>
+course of an hour and a half the fifteen lights round
+the altar are all out; six large-sized candles still
+burn in the vestibule. The whole strength of the
+choir, with alti and soprani, etc., intone <em>fortissimo</em>
+and <em>unisono</em>, a new melody, the "Canticum Zachariæ,"
+in D minor, singing it slowly and solemnly in
+the deepening gloom; the last remaining lights are
+then extinguished. The Pope leaves his throne,
+and falls on his knees before the altar, while all
+around do the same, repeating a paternoster <em>sub
+silentio</em>; that is, a pause ensues, during which you
+know that each Catholic present says the Lord's
+Prayer, and immediately afterwards the Miserere
+begins <em>pianissimo</em> thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/151.jpg" width="300" height="147" alt="music151a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/151a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>This is to me the most sublime moment of the
+whole. You can easily picture to yourself what
+follows, but not this commencement. The continuation,
+which is the Miserere of Allegri, is a simple
+sequence of chords, grounded either on tradition,
+or what appears to me much more probable, merely
+embellishments, introduced by some clever <em>maestro</em>
+for the fine voices at his disposal, and especially for
+a very high soprano. These <em>embellimenti</em> always
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_134"> 134</a></span>
+recur on the same chords, and as they are cleverly
+constructed, and beautifully adapted for the voice,
+it is invariably pleasing to hear them repeated. I
+could not discover anything unearthly or mysterious
+in the music; indeed, I am perfectly contented that
+its beauty should be earthly and comprehensible.
+I refer you, dearest Fanny, to my letter to Zelter.
+On the first day they sang Baini's Miserere.</p>
+
+<p>On Thursday, at nine o'clock in the morning, the
+solemnities recommenced, and lasted till one o'clock.
+There was High Mass, and afterwards a procession.
+The Pope conferred his benediction from the Loggia
+of the Quirinal, and washed the feet of thirteen
+priests, who are supposed to represent the pilgrims,
+and were seated in a row, wearing white gowns and
+white caps, and who afterwards dine. The crowd
+of English ladies was extraordinary, and the whole
+affair repugnant to my feelings. The Psalms began
+again in the afternoon, and lasted on this occasion
+till half past seven. Some portions of the Miserere
+were taken from Baini, but the greater part were
+Allegri's. It was almost dark in the chapel when
+the Miserere commenced. I clambered up a tall
+ladder standing there by chance, and so I had the
+whole chapel crowded with people, and the kneeling
+Pope and his Cardinals, and the music, beneath me.
+It had a splendid effect. On Friday forenoon the
+chapel was stripped of every decoration, and the
+Pope and Cardinals in mourning. The history of
+the Passion, according to St. John, the music by
+Vittoria, was sung; then the Improperia of Palestrina,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_135"> 135</a></span>
+during which the Pope and all the others,
+taking off their shoes, advance to the cross and
+adore it. In the evening Baini's Miserere was
+given, which they sang infinitely the best.</p>
+
+<p>Early on Saturday, in the baptistery of the Lateran,
+Heathens, Jews, and Mahomedans were baptized, all
+represented by a little child, who screeched the whole
+time, and subsequently some young priests received
+consecration for the first time. On Sunday the Pope
+himself performed High Mass in the Quirinal, and
+subsequently pronounced his benediction on the
+people, and then all was over. It is now Saturday,
+the 9th of April, and to-morrow at an early hour I
+get into a carriage and set off for Naples, where a
+new style of beauty awaits me. You will perceive by
+the end of this letter that I write in haste. This is
+my last day, and a great deal yet to be done. I do
+not therefore finish my letter to Zelter, but will send
+it from Naples. I wish my description to be correct,
+and my approaching journey distracts my attention
+sadly. Thus I am off to Naples; the weather is clearing
+up, and the sun shining, which it has not done for
+some days past. My passport is prepared, the carriage
+ordered, and I am looking forward to the months
+of spring. Adieu!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Naples, April 13th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Rebecca,</p>
+
+<p>This must stand in lieu of a birthday letter: may
+it wear a holiday aspect for you! It arrives late in
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_136"> 136</a></span>
+the day, but with equally sincere good wishes. Your
+birthday itself I passed in a singular but delightful
+manner, though I could not write, having neither
+pens nor ink; in fact, I was in the very middle of the
+Pontine Marshes. May the ensuing year bring you
+every happiness, and may we meet somewhere! If
+you were thinking of me on that day, our thoughts
+must have met either on the Brenner or at Inspruck;
+for I was constantly thinking of you. Even without
+looking at the date of this letter, you will at once
+perceive by its tone that I am in Naples. I have not
+yet been able to compass one serious quiet reflection,
+there is everywhere such jovial life here, inviting you
+to do nothing, and to think of nothing, and even the
+example of so many thousand people has an irresistible
+influence. I do not indeed intend that this should
+continue, but I see plainly that it must go on for the
+first few days. I stand for hours on my balcony,
+gazing at Vesuvius and the Bay.</p>
+
+<p>But I must now endeavour to resume my old descriptive
+style, or my materials will accumulate so
+much that I shall become confused, and I fear you
+may not be able to follow me properly. So much
+that is novel crowds on me, that a journal would be
+requisite to detail to you my life and my state of excitement.
+So I begin by acknowledging that I deeply
+regretted leaving Rome. My life there was so quiet,
+and yet so full of interest, having made many kind
+and friendly acquaintances, with whom I had become
+so domesticated, that the last days of my stay, with
+all their discomforts and perpetual running about,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_137"> 137</a></span>
+seemed doubly odious. The last evening I went to
+Vernet's to thank him for my portrait, which is now
+finished, and to take leave of him. We had some
+music, talked politics, and played chess, and then I
+went down the Monte Pincio to my own house,
+packed up my things, and the next morning drove
+off with my travelling companions. As I gazed out
+of the cabriolet at the scenery, I could dream to my
+heart's desire. When we arrived at our night quarters,
+we all went out walking. The two days glided
+past more like a pleasure excursion than a journey.</p>
+
+<p>The road from Rome to Naples is indeed the
+most luxuriant that I know, and the whole mode of
+travelling most agreeable. You fly through the
+plain; for a very slight gratuity the postilions gallop
+their horses like mad, which is very advisable in
+the Marshes. If you wish to contemplate the
+scenery, you have only to abstain from offering any
+gratuity, and you are soon driven slowly enough.
+The road from Albano, by Ariccia and Genzano, as
+far as Velletri, runs between hills, and is shaded by
+trees of every kind; uphill and downhill, through
+avenues of elms, past monasteries and shrines. On
+one side is the Campagna, with its heather, and its
+bright hues; beyond comes the sea, glittering charmingly
+in the sunshine, and above, the clearest sky;
+for since Sunday morning the weather has been
+glorious.</p>
+
+<p>Well! we drove into Velletri, our night quarters,
+where a great Church festival was going on. Handsome
+women with primitive faces were pacing the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_138"> 138</a></span>
+alleys in groups, and men were standing together
+wrapped in cloaks, in the street. The church was
+decorated with garlands of green leaves, and as we
+drove past it we heard the sounds of a double
+bass and some violins; fireworks were prepared in
+the square; the sun went down clear and serene,
+and the Pontine Marshes, with their thousand colours,
+and the rocks rearing their heads one by one
+against the horizon, indicated the course we were
+to pursue on the following day. After supper I
+resolved to go out again for a short time, and discovered
+a kind of illumination; the streets were
+swarming with people, and when I at last came to
+the spot where the church stood, I saw, on turning
+the corner, that the whole street had burning
+torches on each side, and in the middle the people
+were walking up and down, crowding together, and
+pleased to see each other so distinctly at night. I
+cannot tell you what a pretty sight it was. The
+concourse was greatest before the church; I pressed
+forward into it along with the rest. The little
+building was filled with people kneeling, adoring
+the Host, which was exposed; no one spoke a word,
+nor was there any music. This stillness, the lighted
+church, and the many kneeling women with white
+handkerchiefs on their heads, and white gowns, had
+a striking effect. When I left the church a shrewd,
+handsome Italian boy explained the whole festival,
+assuring me that it would have been far finer had
+it not been for the recent disturbances, for they had
+been the cause of depriving the people of the horseraces,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_139"> 139</a></span>
+and barrels of pitch, etc., and on this account
+it was unlucky that the Austrians had not come
+sooner.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning, at six o'clock, we pursued
+our way through the Pontine Marshes. It is a species
+of Bergstrasse. You drive through a straight
+avenue of trees along a plain. On one side of the
+avenue is a continued chain of hills, on the other
+the Marshes. They are, however, covered with
+innumerable flowers, which smell very sweet; but
+in the long-run this becomes very stupefying, and I
+distinctly felt the oppression of the atmosphere, in
+spite of the fine weather. A canal runs along
+beside the <em>chaussée</em>, constructed by the orders of
+Pius VI. to form a conduit for the marshes, where
+we saw a number of buffaloes wallowing, their heads
+emerging out of the water, and apparently enjoying
+themselves. The straight, level road has a singular
+appearance. You see the chain of hills at the end
+of the avenue when you come to the first station,
+and again at the second and third, the only difference
+being that as you advance so many miles
+nearer, the hills loom gradually larger. Terracina,
+which is situated exactly at the end of this avenue,
+is invisible till you come quite close to it. On
+making a sudden turn to the left, round the corner
+of a rock, the whole expanse of the sea lies before
+you. Citron-gardens, and palms, and a variety of
+plants of Southern growth, clothe the declivity in
+front of the town; towers appearing above the
+thickets, and the harbour projecting into the sea.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_140"> 140</a></span>
+To me, the finest object in nature is, and always will
+be, the ocean. I love it almost more than the sky.
+Nothing in Naples made a more enchanting impression
+on my mind than the sea, and I always feel
+happy when I see before me the spacious surface of
+waters.</p>
+
+<p>The South, properly speaking, begins at Terracina.
+This is another land, and every plant and every
+bush reminds you of it. Above all, the two mighty
+ridges of hills delighted me, between which the road
+runs; they were totally devoid of bushes or trees,
+but clothed entirely with masses of golden wall-flowers,
+so that they had a bright yellow hue, and
+the fragrance was almost too strong. There is a
+great want of grass and large trees. The old robbers'
+nests of Fondi and Itri looked very piratical
+and gloomy. The houses are built against the walls
+of the rocks, and there are likewise some large towers
+of the date of the Middle Ages. Many sentinels and
+posts were stationed on the tops of the hills; but we
+made out our journey without any adventure. We
+remained all night in Mola di Gaeta; there we saw
+the renowned balcony whence you look over orange
+and citron groves to the blue sea, with Vesuvius and
+the islands in the far distance. This was on the 11th
+of April. As I had been celebrating your birthday
+all day long in my own thoughts, I could not in the
+evening resist informing my companions that it was
+your birthday; so your health was drunk again and
+again. An old Englishman, who was of the party,
+wished me a "happy return to my sister." I emptied
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_141"> 141</a></span>
+the glass to your health, and thought of you. Remain
+unchanged till we meet again.</p>
+
+<p>With such thoughts in my head, I went in the
+evening to the citron-garden, close to the sea-shore,
+and listened to the waves rolling in from afar, and
+breaking on the shore, and sometimes gently rippling
+and splashing. It was indeed a heavenly night.
+Among a thousand other thoughts, Grillparzer's
+poem recurred to my memory, which it is almost impossible
+to set to music; for which reason, I suppose,
+Fanny has composed a charming melody on it; but I
+do not jest when I say that I sang the song over repeatedly
+to myself, for I was standing on the very
+spot he describes. The sea had subsided, and was
+now calm, and at rest; this was the first song. The
+second followed next day, for the sea was like a
+meadow or pure ether as you gazed at it, and pretty
+women nodded their heads, and so did olives and
+cypresses; but they were all equally brown, so I remained
+in a poetic mood.</p>
+
+<p>What is it that shines through the leaves, and
+glitters like gold? Only cartridges and sabres; for
+the King had been reviewing some troops in Sant'
+Agata, and soldiers defiled on both sides of the
+path, who had the more merit in my eyes because
+they resembled the Prussians, and for a long time
+past I have seen only Papal soldiers. Some carried
+dark-lanterns on their muskets, as they had been
+marching all night. The whole effect was bold and
+gay. We now came to a short rocky pass, from
+which you descend into the valley of Campana, the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_142"> 142</a></span>
+most enchanting spot I have ever seen; it is like a
+boundless garden, covered entirely with plants and
+vegetation as far as the eye can reach. On one side
+are the blue outlines of the sea, on the other an
+undulating range of hills above which snowy peaks
+project; and at a great distance Vesuvius and the
+islands, bathed in blue vapours, start up on the level
+surface; large avenues of trees intersect the vast
+space, and a verdant growth forces its way from
+under every stone. Everywhere you see grotesque
+aloes and cactuses, and the fragrance and vegetation
+are quite unparalleled.</p>
+
+<p>The pleasure we enjoy in England through men,
+we here enjoy through nature; and as there is no
+corner there, however small, of which some one has
+not taken possession in order to cultivate and adorn
+it, so here there is no spot which Nature has not
+appropriated, bringing forth on it flowers and herbs,
+and all that is beautiful. The Campana valley is
+fruitfulness itself. On the whole of the vast immeasurable
+surface bounded in the far distance by
+blue hills and a blue sea, nothing but green meets
+the eye. At last you come to Capua. I cannot
+blame Hannibal for remaining too long there.
+From Capua to Naples the road runs uninterruptedly
+between trees, with hanging vines, till at the end of
+the avenue, Vesuvius, and the sea, with Capri, and
+a mass of houses, lie before you. I am living here
+in St. Lucia as if in heaven; for in the first place I
+see before me Vesuvius, and the hills as far as Castellamare,
+and the bay, and in the second place, I
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_143"> 143</a></span>
+am living up three stories high. Unfortunately that
+traitor Vesuvius does not smoke at all, and looks
+precisely like any other fine mountain; but at night
+the people float in lighted boats on the Bay, to
+catch sword-fish. This has a pretty enough effect.
+Farewell!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<h3>Naples, April 10th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>We are so accustomed to find that everything
+turns out quite differently from what we expected
+and calculated, that you will feel no surprise when
+instead of a letter like a journal, you receive a very
+short one, merely saying that I am quite well, and
+little else.</p>
+
+<p>As for the scenery, I cannot describe it, and if
+you have no conception of what it really is, after all
+that has been said and written on the subject, there
+is little chance of my enlightening you; for what
+makes it so indescribably beautiful, is precisely that
+it is not of a nature to admit of description. Any
+other detail I could send you would be about my
+life here; but it is so simple, that a very few words
+suffice to depict it. I do not wish to make any acquaintances,
+for I am resolved not to remain here
+longer than a few weeks. I intend to make various
+excursions to see the country, and all I desire here,
+is to become thoroughly intimate with nature: so I
+go to bed at nine o'clock, and rise at five, to refresh
+myself by gazing from my balcony at Vesuvius, the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_144"> 144</a></span>
+sea, and the coast of Sorrento, in the bright morning
+light. I have also taken very long solitary
+rambles, discovering beautiful views for myself, and
+I have infinite satisfaction in finding that what I
+consider the loveliest spot of all is almost entirely
+unknown to the Neapolitans. During these excursions
+I sought out some house on a height, to which
+I scrambled up; or else merely followed any path I
+fancied, allowing myself to be surprised by night
+and moonshine, and making acquaintance with vine-dressers,
+in order to learn my way back; arriving
+at last at home about nine o'clock, very tired,
+through the Villa Reale. The view from this villa,
+of the sea and the enchanting Capri by moonlight,
+is truly charming, and so is the almost overpowering
+fragrance of the acacias in full bloom, and the fruit-trees
+scattered all over with rose-coloured blossoms,
+looking like trees with pink foliage,&mdash;all this is
+indeed quite indescribable.</p>
+
+<p>As I live chiefly with and in nature, I can write
+less than usual; perhaps we may talk it over when
+we meet, and the sketches in our sitting-room at
+home will furnish materials and reminiscences for
+conversation. One thing I must not however omit,
+dear Fanny, which is, that I quite approve of your
+taste when I recall what you told me years ago that
+your favorite spot was the island of Nisida. Perhaps
+you may have forgotten this, but I have not.
+It looks as if it were made expressly for pleasure-grounds.
+On emerging from the thicket of Bagnuolo,
+Nisida has quite a startling effect, rising out of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_145"> 145</a></span>
+sea, so near, so large and so green; while the other
+islands, Procida, Ischia, and Capri, stand afar off,
+and indistinct in their blue tints. After the murder
+of Cæsar, Brutus took refuge in this island, and
+Cicero visited him there; the sea lay between them
+then, and the rocks, covered with vegetation, bent
+over the sea, just as they do now. <em>These</em> are the
+antiquities that interest me, and are infinitely more
+suggestive than crumbling mason-work. There is a
+degree of innate superstition and dishonesty among
+the people here that is totally inconceivable, and
+this has often even marred my pleasure in nature;
+for the Swiss, of whom my father complained so
+much, are positively guileless, primitive beings,
+compared with the Neapolitans. My landlord invariably
+gives me too little change for a piastre,
+and when I tell him of it, he coolly fetches the remainder.
+The only acquaintances I intend to make
+here are musical ones, that I may leave nothing
+incomplete,&mdash;for instance Fodor, who does not sing
+in public, Donizetti, Coccia, etc.</p>
+
+<p>I now conclude by a few words to you, dear
+Father. You write to me that you disapprove of
+my going to Sicily; I have consequently given up
+this plan, though I cannot deny that I do so with
+great reluctance, for it was really more than a mere
+<em>whim</em> on my part. There is no danger to be apprehended,
+and, as if on purpose to vex me, a steamer
+leaves this city on the 4th of May, which is to make
+the entire tour; and a good many Germans, and probably
+the minister here, are to take advantage of it.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_146"> 146</a></span>
+I should have liked to see a mountain vomiting forth
+flames, as Vesuvius has been hitherto so unkind as
+not even to smoke. Your instructions however
+have till now so entirely coincided with my own inclinations,
+that I cannot allow the first opportunity
+I have of showing my obedience to your wishes
+(even when opposed to my own), to pass without
+complying with them, so I have effaced Sicily from
+my travelling route. Perhaps we may meet sooner
+in consequence of this; and now farewell, for I am
+going to walk to Capo di Monte.</p>
+
+<p class="smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Naples, April 27th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>It is now nearly a fortnight since I have heard
+from you. I do earnestly hope that nothing unpleasant
+has occurred, and every day I expect the
+post will bring me tidings of you all. My letters
+from Naples are of little value, for I am too deeply
+absorbed here to be able easily to extricate myself,
+and to write descriptive letters. Besides, when we
+had bad weather lately, I took advantage of it to
+resume my labours, and zealously applied myself to
+my "Walpurgis Night," which daily increases in
+interest for me, so I employ every spare moment in
+completing it. I hope to finish it in a few days, and
+I think it will turn out well. If I continue in my
+present mood, I shall finish my Italian symphony
+also in Italy, in which case I shall have a famous
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_147"> 147</a></span>
+store to bring home with me, the fruits of this winter.
+Moreover every day I have something new to
+see. I generally make my excursions with the
+Schadows.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday we went to Pompeii. It looks as if it
+had been burnt down, or like a recently deserted
+city. As both of these always seem to me deeply
+affecting, the impression made on me was the most
+melancholy that I have yet experienced in Italy.
+It is as if the inhabitants had just gone out, and yet
+almost every object tells of another religion and
+another life; in short, of seventeen hundred years
+ago; and the French and English ladies scramble
+about as gaily as possible, and sketch it all. It is
+the old tragedy of the Past and the Present, a
+problem I never can solve. Lively Naples is indeed
+a pleasant contrast; but it is painful to see the
+crowd of wretched beggars who waylay you in every
+street and path, swarming round the carriage the
+instant it stops. The old white-haired men particularly
+distress me, and such a mass of misery exceeds
+all belief. If you are walking on the sea-shore, and
+gazing at the islands, and then chance to look round
+at the land, you find yourself the centre of a group
+of cripples, who make a trade of their infirmities;
+or you discover (which lately happened to me) that
+you are surrounded by thirty or forty children, all
+whining out their favourite phrase, "Muoio di fame,"
+and rattling their jaws to show that they have nothing
+to eat. All this forms a most repulsive contrast;
+and yet to me it is still more repugnant that you
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_148"> 148</a></span>
+must entirely renounce the great pleasure of seeing
+happy faces; for even when you have given the
+richest gratuities to guards, waiters, or workpeople,
+in short, to whom you will, the invariable rejoinder
+is, "Nienti di più?" in which case you may be very
+sure that you have given too much. If it is the
+proper sum, they give it back with the greatest
+apparent indignation, and then return and beg to
+have it again. These are trifles, certainly, but they
+show the lamentable condition of the people. I
+have even gone so far as to feel provoked with the
+perpetual smiling aspect of nature, when in the
+most retired spots troops of beggars everywhere
+assailed me, some even persisting in following me a
+long way. It is only when I am quietly seated in
+my own room, gazing down on the Bay, and on
+Vesuvius, that being totally alone with them I feel
+really cheerful and happy.</p>
+
+<p>To-day we are to ascend the hill to visit the
+Camaldoli Monastery, and to-morrow, if the weather
+permits, we proceed to Procida and Ischia. I go
+this evening to Madame Fodor's with Donizetti,
+Benedict, etc. She is very kind and amiable towards
+me, and her singing has given me great pleasure,
+for she has wonderful facility, and executes her
+<em>fiorituri</em> with so much taste, that it is easy to see
+how many things Sonntag acquired from her, especially
+the <em>mezza voce</em>, which Fodor, whose voice
+is no longer full and fresh, most prudently and
+judiciously introduces into many passages. As she
+is not singing at the theatre, I am most fortunate in
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_149"> 149</a></span>
+having made her acquaintance personally. The
+theatre is now closed for some weeks, because the
+blood of St. Januarius is shortly to liquefy. What
+I heard at the opera previously did not repay the
+trouble of going. The orchestra, like that in Rome,
+was worse than in any part of Germany, and not
+even one tolerable female singer. Tamburini alone,
+with his vigorous bass voice, imparted some life to
+the whole. Those who wish to hear Italian operas,
+must now-a-days go to Paris or London. Heaven
+grant that this may not eventually be the case with
+German music also!</p>
+
+<p>I must however return to my "Witches," so you
+must forgive my not writing any more to-day. This
+whole letter seems to hover in uncertainty, or rather
+I do so in my "Walpurgis Night," whether I am to
+introduce the big drum or not. "Zacken, Gabeln,
+und wilde Klapperstöcke," seem to force me to the
+big drum, but moderation dissuades me. I certainly
+am the only person who ever composed for the scene
+on the Brocken without employing a piccolo-flute,
+but I can't help regretting the big drum, and before
+I can receive Fanny's advice, the "Walpurgis
+Night" will be finished and packed up. I shall
+then set off again on my travels, and Heaven knows
+what I may have in my head by that time. I feel
+convinced that Fanny would say <em>yes</em>; still, I feel
+very doubtful; at all events a vast noise is indispensable.</p>
+
+<p>Oh, Rebecca! can you not procure the words of
+some songs, and send them to me? I feel quite in
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_150"> 150</a></span>
+the humour for them, and you must require something
+new to sing. If you can furnish me with some
+pretty verses, old or new, gay or grave, I will compose
+something in a style to suit your voice. I am
+at your service for any compact of this kind. Pray
+do send me wherewithal to work at, during my journey,
+in the inns. Now, farewell to you all! May
+you be as happy as I ever wish you to be, and think
+of me!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<h3>Naples, May 17th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>On Saturday, the 14th of May, at two o'clock, I
+told my driver to turn the carriage. We were opposite
+the Temple of Ceres at Pæstum, the most
+southern point of my journey. The carriage consequently
+turned towards the north, and from that
+moment, as I journey onwards, I am every hour
+drawing nearer to you. It is about a year now since
+I travelled with my father to Dessau and Leipzig;
+the time in fact exactly corresponds, for it was
+about the half-year. I have made good use of the
+past year. I have acquired considerable experience
+and many new impressions. Both in Rome and here
+I have been very busy, but no change has occurred
+in my outward circumstances; and till the beginning
+of the new year, in fact so long as I am in
+Italy, it will probably be the same. This period
+has not however been less valuable to me than some
+when outwardly, and in the opinion of others, I have
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_151"> 151</a></span>
+appeared to make greater progress; for there must
+always be a close connection between the two. If
+I have gathered experience, it cannot fail to influence
+me outwardly, and I shall allow no opportunity
+to escape to show that it has done so. Possibly
+some such may occur before the end of my journey,
+so I may for the present continue to enjoy nature,
+and the blue sky, during the months that still remain
+for me in Italy, without thinking of anything
+else; for <em>there</em> alone lies true art, now in Italy,&mdash;<em>there</em>
+and in her monuments; and there it will ever
+remain; and there we shall ever find it, for our instruction
+and delight, so long as Vesuvius stands,
+and so long as the balmy air, and the sea, and the
+trees do not pass away.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of all this, I am enough of a musician to
+own that I do heartily long once more to hear an
+orchestra or a full chorus where there is at least
+some sound, for here there is nothing of the sort.
+This is <em>our</em> peculiar province, and to be so long
+deprived of such an element, leaves a sad void.
+The orchestra and chorus here are like those in our
+second-rate provincial towns, only more harsh and
+incorrect. The first violinist, all through the opera,
+beats the four quarters of each bar on a tin candle-stick,
+which is often more distinctly heard than the
+voices (it sounds somewhat like obbligati castanets,
+only louder); and yet in spite of this the voices are
+never together. Every little instrumental solo is
+adorned with old-fashioned flourishes, and a bad
+tone pervades the whole performance, which is
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_152"> 152</a></span>
+totally devoid of genius, fire, or spirit. The singers
+are the worst Italian ones I ever heard anywhere
+(except, indeed, in Italy), and those who wish to
+have a true idea of Italian singing must go to Paris
+or to London. Even the Dresden company, whom I
+heard last year in Leipzig, are superior to any here.
+This is but natural, for in the boundless misery that
+prevails in Naples, where can the bases of a theatre
+be found, which of course requires considerable
+capital? The days when every Italian was a born
+musician, if indeed they ever existed, are long gone
+by. They treat music like any other fashionable
+article, with total indifference; in fact, they scarcely
+pay it the homage of outward respect, so it is not
+to be wondered at that every single person of talent
+should, as regularly as they appear, transfer themselves
+to foreign countries, where they are better
+appreciated, their position better defined, and where
+they find opportunities of hearing and learning
+something profitable and inspiriting.</p>
+
+<p>The only really good singer here is Tamburini;
+he has, however, long since been heard in Vienna
+and Paris, and I believe in London also; so now,
+when he begins to discover that his voice is on the
+decline, he comes back to Italy. I cannot admit
+either that the Italians alone understand the art of
+singing; for there is no music, however florid. I
+have ever heard executed by Italians, that Sonntag
+cannot accomplish, and in even greater perfection.
+She certainly, as she acknowledges, learned much
+from Fodor; but why should not another German
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_153"> 153</a></span>
+in turn learn the same from Sonntag? and Malibran
+is a Spaniard. Italy can no longer claim the glorious
+appellation of "the land of music;" in truth,
+she has already lost it, and possibly she may yet do
+so even in the opinion of the world, though this
+is problematical. I was lately in company with
+some professional musicians, who were speaking of
+a new opera by a Neapolitan, Coccia; and one of
+them asked if it was clever. "Probably it is," said
+another, "for Coccia was long in England, where he
+studied, and some of his compositions are much
+liked there." This struck me as very remarkable, for
+in England they would have spoken exactly in the
+same way of Italy; but <em>quo me rapis</em>? I say
+nothing to you, dear sisters, in this letter, but in the
+course of a few days I mean to send you a little
+pamphlet dedicated to you. Do not be alarmed, it
+is not poetry; the thing is simply entitled "Journal
+of an Excursion to the Islands, in May."</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<h3>Naples, May 28th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>My dear Sisters,</p>
+
+<p>As my journal is become too stupid and uninteresting
+to send you, I must at least supply you with
+an <em>abrégé</em> of my history. You must know, then,
+that on Friday, the 20th of May, we breakfasted <em>in
+corpore</em> at Naples, on fruit, etc.; this <em>in corpore</em> includes
+the travelling party to Ischia, consisting of
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_154"> 154</a></span>
+Ed. Bendemann, T. Hildebrand, Carl Sohn, and
+Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy. My knapsack was
+not very heavy, for it contained scarcely anything
+but Goethe's poems, and three shirts; so we packed
+ourselves into a hired carriage, and drove through
+the grotto of Posilippo to Pozzuoli. The road runs
+along by the sea, and nothing can be more lovely; so
+it is all the more painful to witness the horrible collection
+of cripples, blind men, beggars, and galley
+slaves, in short, the poor wretches of every description
+who there await you, amid the holiday aspect
+of nature.</p>
+
+<p>I seated myself quietly on the mole and sketched,
+while the others plodded and toiled through the
+Temple of Serapis, the theatres, the hot springs,
+and extinct volcanoes, which I had already seen to
+satiety on three different occasions. Then, like youthful
+patriarchs or nomads, we collected all our goods
+and chattels, cloaks, knapsacks, books and portfolios
+on donkeys, and placing ourselves also on them, we
+made the tour of the Bay of Baiæ, as far as the
+Lake of Avernus, where you are obliged to buy fish
+for dinner; we crossed the hill to Cumæ (<em>vide</em>
+Goethe's 'Wanderer') and descended on Baiæ,
+where we ate and rested. We then looked at more
+ruined temples, ancient baths, and other things of
+the kind, and thus evening had arrived before we
+crossed the bay.</p>
+
+<p>At half-past nine we arrived at the little town of
+Ischia, where we found every corner of the only inn
+fully occupied, so we resolved to go on to Don Tommaso's;
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_155"> 155</a></span>
+a journey of two hours nominally, but which
+we performed in an hour and a quarter. The evening
+was deliciously cool, and innumerable glow-worms,
+who allowed us to catch them, were scattered on the
+vine-branches, and fig-trees, and shrubs. When we
+at last arrived, somewhat fatigued, at Don Tommaso's
+house, about eleven o'clock, we found all the
+people still up, clean rooms, fresh fruits, and a friendly
+deacon to wait on us, so we remained comfortably
+seated opposite a heap of cherries till midnight. The
+next morning the weather was bad, and the rain incessant,
+so we could not ascend the Epomeo, and as we
+seemed little disposed to converse (we did not get on in
+this respect, Heaven knows why!) the affair would
+have become rather a bore, if Don Tommaso had not
+possessed the prettiest poultry-yard and farm in
+Europe. Right in front of the door stands a large
+leafy orange-tree covered with ripe fruit, and from
+under its branches a stair leads to the dwelling. Each
+of the white stone steps is decorated with a large vase
+of flowers, these steps leading to a spacious open hall,
+whence through an archway you look down on the
+whole farm-yard, with its orange-trees, stairs, thatched
+roofs, wine casks and pitchers, donkeys and peacocks.
+That a foreground may not be wanting, an Indian fig-tree
+stands under the walled arch, so luxuriant that
+it is fastened to the wall with ropes. The background
+is formed by vineyards with summer-houses,
+and the adjacent heights of the Monte Epomeo.
+Being protected from the rain by the archway, the
+party seated themselves there under shelter, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_156"> 156</a></span>
+sketched the various objects in the farm the best
+way they could, the whole livelong day. I was on
+no ceremony, and sketched along with them, and I
+think I in some degree profited by so doing. At
+night we had a terrific storm, and as I was lying in
+bed, I remarked that the thunder growled tremendously
+on Monte Epomeo, and the echoes continued
+to vibrate like those on the Lake of Lucerne, but
+even for a greater length of time.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning, Sunday, the weather was again fine.
+We went to Foria, and saw the people going to the
+cathedral in their holiday costumes. The women
+wore their well-known head-dress of folds of white
+muslin placed flat on the head; the men were standing
+in the square before the church, in their bright
+red caps, gossiping about politics, and we gradually
+wound our way through these festal villages up the
+hill. It is a huge rugged volcano, full of fissures,
+ravines, cavities, and steep precipices. The cavities
+being used for wine cellars, they are filled with large
+casks. Every declivity is clothed with vines and
+fig-trees, or mulberry-trees. Corn grows on the sides
+of the steep rocks, and yields more than one crop
+every year. The ravines are covered with ivy, and
+innumerable bright-coloured flowers and herbs, and
+wherever there is a vacant space, young chestnut-trees
+shoot up, furnishing the most delightful shade.
+The last village, Fontana, lies in the midst of verdure
+and vegetation. As we climbed higher, the
+sky became overcast and gloomy, and by the time
+we reached the most elevated peaks of the rocks, a
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_157"> 157</a></span>
+thick fog had come on. The vapours flitted about,
+and although the rugged outlines of the rocks, and
+the telegraph, and the cross, stood forth strangely in
+the clouds, still we could not see even the smallest
+portion of the view. Soon afterwards rain commenced,
+and as it was impossible to remain, and
+wait as you do on the Righi, we were obliged to take
+leave of Epomeo without having made his acquaintance.
+We ran down in the rain, one rushing after
+the other, and I do believe that we were scarcely an
+hour in returning.</p>
+
+<p>Next day we went to Capri. This place has
+something Eastern in its aspect, with the glowing
+heat reflected from its rocky white walls, its palm-trees,
+and the rounded domes of the churches that
+look like mosques. The sirocco was burning, and
+rendered me quite unfit to enjoy anything; for
+really climbing up five hundred and thirty-seven
+steps to Anacapri in this frightful heat, and then
+coming down again, is toil only fit for a horse.
+True, the sea is wondrously lovely, looking down
+on it from the summit of the bleak rock, and
+through the singular fissures of the jagged peaks,
+so strangely formed.</p>
+
+<p>But above all, I must tell you of the blue grotto,
+for it is not known to every one, as you can only
+enter it either in very calm weather, or by swimming.
+The rocks there project precipitously into the sea,
+and are probably as steep under the water as above
+it. A huge cavity has been hollowed out by nature,
+but in such a manner, that round the whole circumference
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_158"> 158</a></span>
+of the grotto, the rocks rest on the sea in
+all their breadth, or rather are sunk precipitously
+into it, and ascend thence to the vault of the cavern.
+The sea fills the whole space of the grotto,
+the entrance to which lies under the water, only a
+very small portion of the opening projecting above
+the water, and through this narrow space you can
+only pass in a small boat, in which you must lie
+flat. When you are once in, the whole extent of
+the huge cave and its vault is revealed, and you can
+row about in it with perfect ease, as if under a dome.
+The light of the sun also pierces through the opening
+into the grotto underneath the sea, but broken
+and dimmed by the green sea water, and thence it
+is that such magical visions arise. The whole of
+the rocks are sky-blue and green in the twilight,
+resembling the hue of moonshine, yet every nook,
+and every depth, is distinctly visible. The water is
+thoroughly lighted up and brilliantly illuminated
+by the light of the sun, so that the dark skiff glides
+over a bright shining surface. The colour is the
+most dazzling blue I ever saw, without shadow or
+cloud, like a pane of opal glass; and as the sun
+shines down, you can plainly discern all that is
+going on under the water, while the whole depths of
+the sea with its living creatures are disclosed. You
+can see the coral insects and polypuses clinging to
+the rocks, and far below, fishes of different species
+meeting and swimming past each other. The rocks
+become deeper in colour as they go lower into the
+water, and are quite black at the end of the grotto,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_159"> 159</a></span>
+where they are closely crowded together, and still
+further under them, you can see crabs, fishes, and
+reptiles in the clear waters. Every stroke too of
+the oars echoes strangely under the vault, and as
+you row round the wall, new objects come to light.
+I do wish you could see it, for the effect is singularly
+magical. On turning towards the opening by
+which you entered, the daylight seen through it
+seems bright orange, and by moving even a few
+paces you are entirely isolated under the rock in
+the sea, with its own peculiar sunlight: it is as if
+you were actually living under the water for a time.</p>
+
+<p>We then proceeded to Procida, where the women
+adopt the Greek dress, but do not look at all
+prettier from doing so. Curious faces were peeping
+from every window. A couple of Jesuits, in black
+gowns and with gloomy countenances, were seated
+in a gay arbour of vines, evidently enjoying themselves,
+and made a good picture. Then we crossed
+the sea to Pozzuoli, and through the grotto of
+Posilippo again home.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot write to Paul about his change of residence,
+and his entrance into the great, wide world
+of London, because he mentions casually, that he
+will probably leave for London in the course of
+three weeks, so my letter could not possibly reach
+him in Berlin; a week hence I shall take my chance,
+and address to my brother in London. That smoky
+place is fated to be now and ever my favourite residence;
+my heart glows when I even think of it,
+and I paint to myself my return there, passing
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_160"> 160</a></span>
+through Paris, and finding Paul independent, alone,
+and another man, in the dear old haunts; when he
+will present me to his new friends, and I will present
+him to my old ones, and we shall live and dwell
+together: so even at this moment I am all impatience
+soon to go there. I see by some newspapers
+my friends have sent me, that my name is not forgotten,
+and so I hope when I return to London, to
+be able to work steadily, which I was previously
+unable to do, being forced to go to Italy. If they
+make any difficulty in Munich about my opera, or if
+I cannot get a <em>libretto</em> that I like, I intend in that
+case to compose an opera for London. I know that
+I could receive a commission to do so, as soon as I
+chose. I am also bringing some new pieces with
+me for the Philharmonic, and so I shall have made
+good use of my time.</p>
+
+<p>As my evenings here are at my own disposal, I
+read a little French and English. The "Barricades"
+and "Les États de Blois" particularly interest me,
+as while I read them I realize with horror a period
+which we have often heard extolled as a vigorous
+epoch, too soon passed away. Though these books
+seem to me to have many faults, yet the delineation
+of the two opposite leaders is but too correct; both
+were weak, irresolute, miserable hypocrites, and I
+thank God that the so highly-prized middle ages
+are gone never to return. Say nothing of this to
+any disciple of Hegel's, but it is so nevertheless;
+and the more I read and think on the subject, the
+more I feel this to be true. Sterne has become a
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_161"> 161</a></span>
+great favourite of mine. I remembered that Goethe
+once spoke to me of the 'Sentimental Journey,'
+and said that it was impossible for any one better
+to paint what a froward and perverse thing is the
+human heart. I chanced to meet with the book,
+and thought I should like to read it. It pleases me
+very much. I think it very subtle, and beautifully
+conceived and expressed.</p>
+
+<p>There are very few German books to be had here.
+I am therefore restricted to Goethe's Poems, and
+assuredly these are suggestive enough, and always
+new. I feel especial interest in those poems which
+he evidently composed in or near Naples, such as
+Alexis and Dora; for I daily see from my window
+how this wonderful work was created. Indeed,
+which is often the case with master-pieces, I often
+suddenly and involuntarily think, that the very same
+ideas might have occurred to myself on a similar
+occasion, and as if Goethe had only by some chance
+been the first to express them.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to the poem, "Gott segne dich, junge
+Frau," I maintain that I have discovered its locality
+and dined with the woman herself; but of course she
+is now grown old, and the boy she was then nursing
+is become a stalwart vine-dresser. Her house lies
+between Pozzuoli and Baiæ, "eines Tempels Trümmern,"
+and is fully three miles from Cumæ. You
+may imagine therefore with what new light and
+truth these poems dawn on me, and the different
+feeling with which I now regard and study them.
+I say nothing of Mignon's song at present, but it is
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_162"> 162</a></span>
+singular that Goethe and Thorwaldsen are still
+living, that Beethoven only died a few years ago,
+and yet H&mdash;&mdash; declares that German art is as dead
+as a rat. <em>Quod non.</em> So much the worse for him
+if he really feels thus; but when I reflect for a time
+on his conclusions, they appear to me very shallow.
+<em>Apropos</em>, Schadow, who returns to Düsseldorf in
+the course of a few days, has promised to extract,
+if possible, some new songs for me from Immermann,
+which rejoices me much. That man is a true poet,
+which is proved by his letters, and everything that
+he has written. Count Platen is a little, shrivelled,
+wheezing old man, with gold spectacles, yet not
+more than five-and-thirty! He quite startled me.
+The Greeks look very different! He abuses the
+Germans terribly, forgetting however that he does
+so in German. But farewell for to-day.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<h3>Rome, June 6th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>My dear Parents,</p>
+
+<p>It is indeed high time that I should write to you
+a rational, methodical letter, for I fear that none of
+those from Naples were worth much. It really
+seemed as if the atmosphere there deterred every
+one from serious reflection, at least I very seldom
+succeeded in collecting my thoughts or ideas; and
+now I have been scarcely more than a few hours
+here, when I once more resume that Roman tranquillity,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_163"> 163</a></span>
+and grave serenity, which I alluded to in my
+former letters from this place. I cannot express
+how infinitely better I love Rome than Naples.
+People allege that Rome is monotonous, of one
+uniform hue, melancholy, and solitary. It is certainly
+true that Naples is more like a great European
+city, more lively and varied, and more cosmopolitan;
+but I may say to you confidentially, that I begin
+gradually to feel the most decided hatred of all that
+is cosmopolitan;&mdash;I dislike it, just as I dislike
+<em>many-sidedness</em>, which, moreover, I rather think I
+do not much believe in. Anything that aspires to
+be distinguished, or beautiful, or really great, must
+be <em>one-sided</em>; but then this <em>one side</em> must be brought
+to a state of the most consummate perfection, and
+no man can deny that such is the case at Rome.</p>
+
+<p>Naples seems to me too small to be called properly
+a great city; all the life and bustle are confined
+to two large thoroughfares&mdash;the Toledo, and the
+coast from the harbour to the Chiaja. Naples does
+not realize to my mind the idea of a centre for a
+great nation, which London offers in such perfection;
+chiefly indeed because it is deficient in a
+people: for the fishermen and lazzaroni I cannot
+designate as a people, they are more like savages,
+and their centre is not Naples, but the sea. The
+middle classes, by which I mean those who pursue
+various trades, and the working citizens who form
+the basis of other great towns, are quite subordinate;
+indeed, I may almost say that such a class is
+not to be found there. It was this that often made
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_164"> 164</a></span>
+me feel out of humour during my stay in Naples,
+much as I loved and enjoyed the scenery; but as a
+dissatisfied feeling constantly recurred, I think I
+at last discovered the cause to lie within myself. I
+cannot say that I was precisely unwell during the
+incessant sirocco, but it was more disagreeable than
+an indisposition which passes away in a few days. I
+felt languid, disinclined for all that was serious,&mdash;in
+fact, lazy. I lounged about the streets all day with
+a morose face, and would have preferred lying on
+the ground, without the trouble of thinking, or wishing,
+or doing anything; then it suddenly occurred to
+me, that the principal classes in Naples live in reality
+precisely in the same manner; that consequently
+the source of my depression did not spring from
+myself, as I had feared, but from the whole combination
+of air, climate, etc. The atmosphere is suitable
+for grandees who rise late, never require to go out on
+foot, never think (for this is heating), sleep away a
+couple of hours on a sofa in the afternoon, then eat
+ice, and drive to the theatre at night, where again
+they do not find anything to think about, but
+simply make and receive visits. On the other
+hand, the climate is equally suitable for a fellow in
+a shirt, with naked legs and arms, who also has no
+occasion to move about&mdash;begging for a few <em>grani</em>
+when he has literally nothing left to live on&mdash;taking
+his afternoon's siesta stretched on the ground, or
+on the quay, or on the stone pavement (the pedestrians
+step over him, or shove him aside if he lies
+right in the middle). He fetches his <em>frutti di mare</em>
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_165"> 165</a></span>
+himself out of the sea, sleeps wherever he may
+chance to find himself at night; in short, he employs
+every moment in doing exactly what he likes best,
+just as an animal does.</p>
+
+<p>These are the two principal classes of Naples.
+By far the largest portion of the population of the
+Toledo there, consists of gaily dressed ladies and
+gentlemen, or husbands and wives driving together
+in handsome equipages, or of those olive <em>sans-culottes</em>
+who sometimes carry about fish for sale, brawling in
+the most stentorian way, or bearing burdens when
+they have no longer any money left. I believe there
+are few indeed who have any settled occupation, or
+follow up any pursuit with zeal and perseverance,
+or who like work for the sake of working. Goethe
+says that the misfortune of the North is, that people
+there always wish to be doing something, and striving
+after some end; and he goes on to say, that an
+Italian was right, who advised him not to think so
+much, for it would only give him a headache. I
+suspect however that he was merely jesting; at all
+events, he did not act in this manner himself, but, on
+the contrary, like a genuine Northman. If however
+he means that the difference of character is produced
+by nature, and subservient to her influence, then
+there is no doubt that he is quite in the right. I can
+perfectly conceive that it must be so, and why wolves
+howl; still it is not necessary to howl along with them.
+The proverb should be exactly reversed. Those
+who, owing to their position, are obliged to work,
+and must consequently both think and bestir themselves,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_166"> 166</a></span>
+treat the matter as a necessary evil, which
+brings them in money, and when they actually have
+it, they too live like the great, or the naked, gentlemen.
+Thus there is no shop where you are not
+cheated. Natives of Naples, who have been customers
+for many years, are obliged to bargain, and to
+be as much on their guard as foreigners; and one of
+my acquaintances, who had dealt at the same shop
+for fifteen years, told me that during the whole
+of that period there had been invariably the same
+battle about a few scudi, and that nothing could
+prevent it.</p>
+
+<p>Thence it is that there is so little industry or competition,
+and that Donizetti finishes an opera in ten
+days; to be sure, it is sometimes hissed, but that
+does not matter, for it is paid for all the same, and
+he can then go about amusing himself. If at last
+however his reputation becomes endangered, he will
+in that case be forced really to work, which he would
+find by no means agreeable. This is why he sometimes
+writes an opera in three weeks, bestowing
+considerable pains on a couple of airs in it, so that
+they may please the public, and then he can afford
+once more to divert himself, and once more to write
+trash. Their painters, in the same way, paint the
+most incredibly bad pictures, far inferior even to
+their music. Their architects also erect buildings
+in the worst taste; among others, an imitation, on a
+small scale, of St. Peter's, in the Chinese style.
+But what does it matter? the pictures are bright in
+colour, the music makes plenty of noise, the buildings
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_167"> 167</a></span>
+give plenty of shade, and the Neapolitan grandees
+ask no more.</p>
+
+<p>My physical mood was similar to theirs, everything
+inspiring me with a wish to be idle, and to
+lounge about, and sleep; yet I was constantly saying
+to myself that this was wrong; and striving to
+occupy myself, and to work, which I could not
+accomplish. Hence arose the querulous tone of
+some of the letters I wrote to you, and I could only
+escape from such a mood by rambling over the hills,
+where nature is so divine, making every man feel
+grateful and cheerful. I did not neglect the musicians,
+and we had a great deal of music, but I cared
+little in reality for their flattering encomiums.
+Fodor is hitherto the only genuine artist, male or
+female, that I have seen in Italy; elsewhere I should
+probably have found a great many faults with her
+singing, but I overlooked them all, because when
+she sings it is real music, and after such a long privation,
+that was most acceptable.</p>
+
+<p>Now however I am once more in old Rome, where
+life is very different. There are processions daily, for
+last week was the Corpus Domini; and just as I left
+the city during the celebration of the week following
+the Holy Week, I now return after the Corpus
+Christi to find them engaged in the same way. It
+made a singular impression on me to see that the
+streets had in the interim assumed such an aspect
+of summer: on all sides booths with lemons and
+iced water, the people in light dresses, the windows
+open, and the <em>jalousies</em> closed. You sit at the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_168"> 168</a></span>
+doors of coffee-houses, and eat <em>gelato</em> in quantities;
+the Corso swarms with equipages, for people
+no longer walk much, and though in reality I miss
+no dear friends or relatives, yet I felt quite moved
+when I once more saw the Piazza di Spagna, and
+the familiar names written up on the corners of the
+streets. I shall stay here for about a week, and then
+proceed northwards.</p>
+
+<p>The Infiorata is on Thursday, but it is not yet
+quite certain that it will take place, because they
+have some apprehensions of a revolution; but I
+hope I shall witness this ceremony. I mean to take
+advantage of this opportunity to see the hills once
+more, and then to set off for the north. Wish me
+a good journey, for I am on the eve of departure.
+It is a year this very day since I arrived in Munich,
+heard 'Fidelio,' and wrote to you. We have not
+met since then; but, please God, we shall see each
+other again before another year.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Rome, June 16, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Professor,</p>
+
+<p>It was my intention some time ago to have written
+you a description of the music during the Holy
+Week, but my journey to Naples intervened, and
+during my stay there, I was so constantly occupied
+in wandering among the mountains, and in gazing
+at the sea, that I had not a moment's leisure to
+write; hence arose the delay for which I now beg to
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_169"> 169</a></span>
+apologize. Since then I have not heard a single
+note worth remembering; in Naples the music is
+most inferior. During the last two months, therefore,
+I have no musical reminiscences to send you,
+save those of the Holy Week, which however made
+so indelible an impression on my mind, that they
+will be always fresh in my memory. I already described
+to my parents the effect of the whole ceremonies,
+and they probably sent you the letter.</p>
+
+<p>It was fortunate that I resolved to listen to the
+various Offices with earnest and close attention, and
+still more so, that from the very first moment I felt
+sensations of reverence and piety. I consider such
+a mood indispensable for the reception of new ideas,
+and no portion of the general effect escaped me,
+although I took care to watch each separate detail.</p>
+
+<p>The ceremonies commenced on Wednesday, at half
+past four o'clock, with the antiphon "Zelus domus
+tuæ." A little book containing the Offices for the
+Holy Week explains the sense of the various solemnities.
+"Each Nocturn contains three Psalms,
+signifying that Christ died for all, and also symbolical
+of the three laws, the natural, the written,
+and the evangelical. The 'Domine labia mea' and
+the 'Deus in adjutorium' were not sung on this
+occasion, when the death of our Saviour and Master
+is deplored, as slain by the hands of wicked
+godless men. The fifteen lights represent the
+twelve apostles and the three Marys." (In this
+manner the book contains much curious information
+on this subject, so I mean to bring it with me for you.)
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_170"> 170</a></span>
+The Psalms are chanted <em>fortissimo</em> by all the male
+voices of two choirs. Each verse is divided into
+two parts, like a question and answer, or rather,
+classified into A and B; the first chorus sings A,
+and the second replies with B. All the words, with
+the exception of the last, are sung with extreme rapidity
+on one note, but on the last they make a short
+"melisma," which is different in the first and second
+verse. The whole Psalm, with all its verses, is sung
+on this melody, or <em>tono</em> as they call it, and I wrote
+down seven of these <em>toni</em>, which were employed
+during the three days. You cannot conceive how
+tiresome and monotonous the effect is, and how
+harshly and mechanically they chant through the
+Psalms. The first <em>tonus</em> which they sang was&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/188a.jpg" width="300" height="62" alt="music188a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/188a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/188b.jpg" width="300" height="62" alt="music188b" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/188b.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>Thus the whole forty-two verses of the Psalm are
+sung in precisely the same manner; one half of the
+verse ending in G, A, G, the other in G, E, G.
+They sing with the accent of a number of men
+quarrelling violently, and it sounds as if they were
+shouting out furiously one against another. The
+closing words of each Psalm are chanted more
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_171"> 171</a></span>
+slowly and impressively, a long "triad" being substituted
+for the "melisma," sung <em>piano</em>. For instance,
+this is the first:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/189.jpg" width="300" height="119" alt="music189a"  />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/189a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>An antiphon, and sometimes more than one,
+serves as an introduction to each Psalm. These
+are generally sung by two counter-tenor voices, in
+<em>canto fermo</em>, in harsh, hard tones; the first half of
+each verse in the same style, and the second responded
+to by the chorus of male voices that I already
+described. I have kept the several antiphons that
+I wrote down, that you may compare them with the
+book. On the afternoon of Wednesday, the 68th,
+69th, and 70th Psalms were sung. (By the bye,
+this division of the verses of the Psalms sung in
+turns by each chorus, is one of the innovations that
+Bunsen has introduced into the Evangelical Church
+here; he also ushers in each choral by an antiphon,
+composed by Georg, a musician who resides here,
+in the style of <em>canti fermi</em>, first sung by a few
+voices, succeeded by a choral, such as "Ein' feste
+Burg ist unser Gott.") After the 70th Psalm
+comes a paternoster <em>sub silentio</em>&mdash;that is, all present
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_172"> 172</a></span>
+stand up, and a short silent inward prayer ensues,
+and a pause.</p>
+
+<p>Then commences the first Lamentation of Jeremiah,
+sung in a low subdued tone, in the key of G
+major, a solemn and fine composition of Palestrina's.
+The solos are chanted entirely by high tenor voices,
+swelling and subsiding alternately, in the most delicate
+gradations, sometimes floating almost inaudibly,
+and gently blending the various harmonies;
+being sung without any bass voices, and immediately
+succeeding the previous harsh intonation of the
+Psalms, the effect is truly heavenly. It is rather
+unfortunate however that those very parts which
+ought to be sung with the deepest emotion and
+reverence, being evidently those composed with
+peculiar fervour, should chance to be merely the
+titles of the chapter or verse, <em>aleph</em>, <em>beth</em>, <em>gimel</em>, etc.,
+and that the beautiful commencement, which sounds
+as if it came direct from Heaven, should be precisely
+on these words, "Incipit Lamentatio Jeremiæ Prophetæ
+Lectio I." This must be not a little repulsive
+to every Protestant heart, and if there be any
+design to introduce a similar mode of chanting into
+our churches, it appears to me that this will always
+be a stumbling-block; for any one who sings
+"chapter first" cannot possibly feel any pious emotions,
+however beautiful the music may be, let him
+strive as he will.</p>
+
+<p>My little book indeed says, "Vedendo profetizzato
+il crocifiggimento con gran pietà, si cantano eziandio
+molto lamentevolmente <em>aleph</em>, e le altre simili
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_173"> 173</a></span>
+parole, che sono le lettere dell' alfabeto Ebreo,
+perchè erano in costume di porsi in ogni canzone in
+luogo di lamento, come è questa. Ciascuna lettera
+ha in se, tutto it sentimento di quel versetto che la
+segue, ed è come un argomento di esso;" but this
+explanation is not worth much. After this the 71st,
+72nd, and 73rd Psalms are sung in the same manner,
+with their antiphons. These are apportioned
+to the various voices. The soprano begins, "In
+monte Oliveti," on which the bass voices chime in
+<em>forte</em>, "Oravit ad Patrem: Pater," etc. Then follow
+the lessons, from the treatise of Saint Augustine on
+the Psalms. The strange mode in which these are
+chanted appeared to me very extraordinary when I
+heard them for the first time on Palm Sunday, without
+knowing what it meant. A solitary voice is
+heard reciting on one note, not as in the Psalms,
+but very slowly and impressively, making the tone
+ring out clearly.</p>
+
+<p>There are different cadences employed for the
+different punctuation of the words, to represent a
+comma, interrogation, and full stop. Perhaps you
+are already acquainted with these: to me they were
+a novelty, and appeared very singular. The first,
+for example, was chanted by a powerful bass voice
+in G. If a comma occurs, he sings so, on the last
+word:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/191.jpg" width="150" height="48" alt="music191a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/191a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_174"> 174</a></span></p>
+
+<p>an interrogation thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/192a.jpg" width="150" height="44" alt="music192a" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/192a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>a full stop:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;">
+<img src="images/192b.jpg" width="150" height="48" alt="music192b" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/192b.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>For example:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/192c.jpg" width="300" height="54" alt="music192c" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/192c.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>I cannot describe to you how strange the falling
+cadence from A to C sounds; especially when the
+bass is followed by a soprano, who begins on D, and
+makes the same falling cadence from E to G; then
+an alto does the same in his key; for they sang
+three different lessons alternately with the <em>canto
+fermo</em>. I send you a specimen of the mode in which
+they render the <em>canto fermo</em>, regardless both of the
+words and the sense. The phrase "better he had
+never been born" was thus sung:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/192d.jpg" width="300" height="126" alt="music192d" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/192d.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_175"> 175</a></span>
+quite <em>fortissimo</em> and monotonously. Then came the
+Psalms 74, 75, and 76, followed by three lessons,
+succeeded by the Miserere, sung in the same style
+as the preceding Psalms, in the following <em>tonus</em>:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/193a.jpg" width="300" height="119" alt="music193a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/193a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/193b.jpg" width="300" height="62" alt="music193b" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/193b.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>It will be long before you can improve on this.
+Then followed Psalms 8, 62, and 66; "Canticum
+Moysi" in its own tone. Psalms 148, 149, and 150
+came next, and then antiphons. During this time
+the lights on the altar are all extinguished, save one
+which is placed behind the altar. Six wax candles
+still continue to burn high above the entrance, the
+rest of the space is already dim, and now the whole
+chorus <em>unisono</em> intone with the full strength of their
+voices the "Canticum Zachariæ," during which the
+last remaining lights are extinguished. The mighty
+swelling chorus in the gloom, and the solemn vibration
+of so many voices, have a wonderfully fine
+effect.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_176"> 176</a></span>
+The melody (in D minor) is also very beautiful.
+At the close all is profound darkness. An antiphon
+begins on the sentence, "Now he that betrayed him
+gave them a sign," and continues to the words "that
+same is he, hold him fast." Then all present fall on
+their knees, and one solitary voice softly sings,
+"Christus factus est pro nobis obediens usque ad
+mortem;" on the second day is added, "mortem
+autem crucis;" and on Good Friday, "propter
+quod et Deus exaltavit illum, et dedit illi Nomen,
+quod est super omne nomen." A pause ensues,
+during which each person repeats the Paternoster
+to himself. During this silent prayer, a death-like
+silence prevails in the whole church; presently the
+Miserere commences, with a chord softly breathed
+by the voices, and gradually branching off into two
+choirs. This beginning, and its first harmonious
+vibration, certainly made the deepest impression on
+me. For an hour and a half previously, one voice
+alone had been heard chanting almost without any
+variety; after the pause came an admirably constructed
+chord, which has the finest possible effect,
+causing every one to feel in their hearts the power
+of music; it is this indeed that is so striking. The
+best voices are reserved for the Miserere, which is
+sung with the greatest variety of effect, the voices
+swelling and dying away, from the softest <em>piano</em> to
+the full strength of the choir. No wonder that it
+should excite deep emotion in every heart. Moreover
+they do not neglect the power of contrast;
+verse after verse being chanted by all the male
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_177"> 177</a></span>
+voices in unison, <em>forte</em>, and harshly. At the beginning
+of the subsequent verses, the lovely, rich, soft
+sounds of voices steal on the ear, lasting only for a
+short space, and succeeded by a chorus of male
+voices. During the verses sung in monotone, every
+one knows how beautifully the softer choir are about
+to uplift their voices; soon they are again heard,
+again to die away too quickly, and before the
+thoughts can be collected, the service is over.</p>
+
+<p>On the first day, when the Miserere of Baini was
+given in the key of B minor, they sang thus:&mdash;"Miserere
+mei Deus" to "misericordiam tuam" from
+the music, with solo voices, two choirs using the
+whole strength of voices at their command; then all
+the bass singers commenced <em>tutti forte</em> by F sharp,
+chanting on that note "et secundum multitudinem"
+to "iniquitatem meam," which is immediately succeeded
+by a soft chord in B minor, and so on, to the
+last verse of all, which they sing with their entire
+strength; a second short silent prayer ensues, when
+all the Cardinals scrape their feet noisily on the pavement,
+which betokens the close of the ceremony. My
+little book says, "This noise is symbolical of the
+tumult made by the Hebrews in seizing Christ." It
+may be so, but it sounded exactly like the commotion
+in the pit of a theatre, when the beginning of a play
+is delayed, or when it is finally condemned. The
+single taper still burning, is then brought from behind
+the altar, and all silently disperse by its solitary light.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving the chapel, I must not omit to mention
+the striking effect of the blazing chandelier lighting
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_178"> 178</a></span>
+up the great vestibule, when the Cardinals and their
+attendant priests traverse the illuminated Quirinal
+through ranks of Swiss Guards. The Miserere sung
+on the first day was Baini's, a composition entirely
+devoid of life or power, like all his works; still it had
+chords and music, and so it made a certain impression.</p>
+
+<p>On the second day they gave some pieces by Allegri
+and Bai. On Good Friday all the music was
+Bai's. As Allegri composed only one verse, on
+which the rest are chanted, I heard the three compositions
+which they gave on that day. It is however
+quite immaterial which they sing, for the <em>embellimenti</em>
+are pretty much the same in all three. Each chord
+has its <em>embellimento</em>, thus very little of the original
+composition is to be discovered. How these <em>embellimenti</em>
+have crept in they will not say. It is maintained
+that they are traditional; but this I entirely
+disbelieve. In the first place no musical tradition is
+to be relied on; besides, how is it possible to carry
+down a five-part movement to the present time, from
+mere hearsay? It does not sound like it. It is evident
+that they have been more recently added; and
+it appears to me that the director, having had good
+high voices at his command, and wishing to employ
+them during the Holy Week, wrote down for their
+use ornamental phrases, founded on the simple unadorned
+chords, to enable them to give full scope
+and effect to their voices. They certainly are not of
+ancient date, but are composed with infinite talent
+and taste, and their effect is admirable; one in particular
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_179"> 179</a></span>
+is often repeated, and makes so deep an impression,
+that when it begins, an evident excitement
+pervades all present; indeed, in any discussion as to
+the mode of executing this music, and when people
+say that the voices do not seem like the voices of
+men, but those of angels from on high, and that these
+sounds can never he heard elsewhere, it is this particular
+<em>embellimento</em> to which they invariably allude.
+For example, in the Miserere, whether that of Bai
+or Allegri (for they have recourse to the same <em>embellimenti</em>
+in both) these are the consecutive
+chords:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/197a.jpg" width="300" height="68" alt="music197a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/197a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>Instead of this, they sing it so:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/197b.jpg" width="300" height="130" alt="music197b" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_180"> 180</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/198.jpg" width="300" height="127" alt="music197b"  />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/197b.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>The soprano intones the high C in a pure soft
+voice, allowing it to vibrate for a time, and slowly
+gliding down, while the alto holds the C steadily, so
+that at first I was under the delusion that the high
+C was still held by the soprano; the skill, too, with
+which the harmony is gradually developed is truly
+admirable. The other <em>embellimenti</em> are adapted in
+the same way to the consecutive chords: but the
+first one is by far the most beautiful. I can give no
+opinion as to the particular mode of executing the
+music; but what I once read, that some particular
+acoustic contrivance caused the continued vibration
+of the sounds, is an entire fable, quite as much so as
+the assertion that they sing from tradition, and without
+any fixed time, one voice simply following the
+other; for I saw plainly enough the shadow of Baini's
+long arm moving up and down; indeed, he sometimes
+struck his music-desk quite audibly. There is no
+lack of mystery too, on the part of the singers and
+others: for example, they never say beforehand
+what particular Miserere they intend to sing, but
+that it will be decided at the moment, etc., etc.
+The key in which they sing, depends on the purity
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_181"> 181</a></span>
+of the voices. The first day it was in B minor, the
+second and third in E minor, but each time they
+finished almost in B flat minor.</p>
+
+<p>The chief soprano, Mariano, came from the mountains
+to Rome expressly to sing on this occasion,
+and it is to him I owe hearing the <em>embellimenti</em> with
+their highest notes. However careful and attentive
+the singers may be, still the negligence and bad
+habits of the whole previous year have their revenge,
+consequently the most fearful dissonance sometimes
+occurs.</p>
+
+<p>I must not forget to tell you that on the Thursday,
+when the Miserere was about to begin, I clambered
+up a ladder leaning against the wall, and was thus
+placed close to the roof of the chapel, so that I
+had the music, the priests, and the people far beneath
+me in gloom and shadow. Seated thus alone
+without the vicinity of any obtrusive stranger, the
+impression made on me was very profound. But to
+proceed: you must have had more than enough of
+Misereres in these pages, and I intend to bring you
+more particular details, both verbal and written.</p>
+
+<p>On Thursday, at half-past ten o'clock, high Mass
+was celebrated. They sang an eight-part composition
+of Fazzini's, in no way remarkable. I reserve
+for you some <em>canti fermi</em> and antiphons, which I
+wrote down at the time, and my little book describes
+the order of the various services and the meaning of
+the different ceremonies. At the "Gloria in Excelsis"
+all the bells in Rome peal forth, and are not
+rung again till after Good Friday. The hours are
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_182"> 182</a></span>
+marked in the churches by wooden clappers. The
+words of the "Gloria," the signal for all the strange
+tumult of bells, were chanted from the altar by old
+Cardinal Pacca, in a feeble trembling voice; this
+being succeeded by the choirs and all the bells, had a
+striking effect. After the "Credo" they sang the
+"Fratres ego enim" of Palestrina, but in the most
+unfinished and careless manner. The washing of
+the pilgrims' feet followed, and a procession in which
+all the singers join; Baini beating time from a large
+book carried before him, making signs first to one,
+and then to another, while the singers pressed forward
+to look at the music, counting the time as they
+walked, and then chiming in,&mdash;the Pope being borne
+aloft in his state chair. All this I have already described
+to my parents.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening there were Psalms, Lamentations,
+Lessons, and the Miserere again, scarcely differing
+from those of the previous day. One lesson was
+chanted by a soprano solo on a peculiar melody, that
+I mean to bring home with me. It is an adagio, in
+long-drawn notes, and lasts a quarter of an hour at
+least. There is no pause in the music, and the
+melody lies very high, and yet it was executed with
+the most pure, clear, and even intonation. The
+singer did not drop his tone so much as a single
+comma, the very last notes swelling and dying away
+as even and full as at the beginning; it was, indeed, a
+masterly performance. I was struck with the meaning
+they attach to the word <em>appoggiatura</em>. If the melody
+goes from C to D, or from C to E, they sing thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_183"> 183</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/201a.jpg" width="300" height="50" alt="music201a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/201a.mid">Listen</a>]&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+[<a href="music/201b.mid">Listen</a>]&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+[<a href="music/201c.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/201d.jpg" width="300" height="76" alt="music201d" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/201d.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/201e.jpg" width="300" height="136" alt="music201e" />
+</div>
+
+<p>[<a href="music/201e.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>and this they call an <em>appoggiatura</em>. Whatever they
+may choose to designate it, the effect is most disagreeable,
+and it must require long habit not to be
+discomposed by this strange practice, which reminds
+me very much of our old women at home in church;
+moreover the effect is the same. I saw in my book
+that the "Tenebræ" was to be sung, and thinking
+that it would interest you to know how it is given in
+the Papal chapel, I was on the watch with a sharp-pointed
+pencil when it commenced, and send you
+herewith the principal parts. It was sung very
+quick, and <em>forte</em> throughout, without exception.
+The beginning was:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/202a.jpg" width="300" height="106" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/202a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_184"> 184</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Then</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/202b.jpg" width="300" height="268" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/202b.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+
+<p>I cannot help it, but I own it does irritate me to
+hear such holy and touching words sung to such
+dull, drawling music. They say it is <em>canto fermo</em>,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_185"> 185</a></span>
+Gregorian, etc.; no matter. If at that period there
+was neither the feeling nor the capability to write
+in a different style, at all events we have now the
+power to do so, and certainly this mechanical monotony
+is not to be found in the scriptural words;
+they are all truth and freshness, and moreover expressed
+in the most simple and natural manner.
+Why then make them sound like a mere formula?
+and, in truth, such singing as this is nothing more!
+The word "Pater" with a little flourish, the "meum"
+with a little shake, the "ut quid me"&mdash;can this be
+called sacred music? There is certainly no false
+expression in it, because there is <em>none</em> of any kind;
+but does not this very fact prove the desecration of
+the words? A hundred times during the ceremony
+I was driven wild by such things as these; and then
+came people in a state of ecstasy, saying how splendid
+it had all been. This sounded to me like a bad
+joke, and yet they were quite in earnest!</p>
+
+<p>At Mass early on Friday morning, the chapel is
+stripped of all its decorations, the altar uncovered,
+and the Pope and Cardinals in mourning. The
+"Passion," from St. John, was sung, composed by
+Vittoria, but the words of the people in the chorus
+alone are his, the rest are chanted according to an established
+formula: but more of this hereafter. The
+whole appeared to me too trivial and monotonous,
+I was quite out of humour, and, in fact, dissatisfied
+with the affair altogether. One of the two following
+modes ought to be adopted. The "Passion" ought
+either to be recited quietly by the priest, as St.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_186"> 186</a></span>
+John relates it, in which case there is no occasion
+for the chorus to sing "Crucifige eum," nor for the
+alto to represent Pilate&mdash;or else the scene should be
+so thoroughly realized, that it ought to make me feel
+as if I were actually present, and saw it all myself.
+In that event, Pilate ought to sing just as he would
+have spoken, the chorus shout out "Crucifige" in a
+tone anything but sacred; and then, through the
+impress of entire truth, and the dignity of the object
+represented, the singing would become sacred church
+music.</p>
+
+<p>I require no under-current of thought when I hear
+music, which is not to me "a mere medium to elevate
+the mind to piety," as they say here, but a distinct
+language speaking plainly to me; for though the
+sense is <em>expressed</em> by the words, it is equally contained
+in the music. This is the case with the
+"Passion" of Sebastian Bach; but as they sing it
+here, it is very imperfect, being neither a simple
+narrative, nor yet a grand solemn dramatic truth.
+The chorus sings "Barabbam" to the same sacred
+chords as "et in terra pax." Pilate speaks exactly
+in the same manner as the Evangelist. The voice
+that represents our blessed Saviour commences
+always <em>piano</em>, in order to have one definite distinction,
+but when the chorus breaks loose, shouting out
+their sacred chords, it seems entirely devoid of
+meaning. Pray forgive these strictures. I now
+proceed to simple narration again. The Evangelist
+is a tenor, and the mode of chanting, the same as
+that of the Lessons, with a peculiar falling cadence
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_187"> 187</a></span>
+at the comma, interrogation, and full stop. The
+Evangelist intones on D, and sings thus at a full
+stop:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/205a.jpg" width="250" height="55" alt="music205a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/205a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>at a comma:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/205b.jpg" width="200" height="56" alt="music052b" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/205b.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>and at the conclusion, when another personage
+enters, so:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/205c.jpg" width="250" height="51" alt="music205c" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/205c.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>Christ is represented by a bass, and commences
+always thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/205d.jpg" width="300" height="61" alt="music205d" />
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/205d.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>I could not catch the formula, though I noted down
+several parts, which I can show you when I return:
+among others, the words spoken on the Cross. All
+the other personages,&mdash;Pilate, Peter, the Maid, and
+the High Priest,&mdash;are altos, and sing this melody
+only:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/205e.jpg" width="200" height="52" alt="music205e" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/205e.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_188"> 188</a></span>
+The chorus sings the words of the people from
+their places above, while everything else is sung
+from the altar. I must really mark down here as a
+curiosity the "Crucifige," just as I noted it at the
+time:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/206.jpg" width="300" height="238" alt="music206" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/206.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>The "Barabbam" too is most singular;&mdash;very
+tame Jews indeed! But my letter is already too
+long, so I shall discuss the subject no further.
+Prayers are then offered up for all nations and institutions,
+each separately designated. When the
+prayer for the Jews is uttered, no one kneels, as
+they do at all the others, nor is Amen said. They
+pray <em>pro perfidis Judæis</em>, and the author of my
+book discovers an explanation of this also. Then
+follows the Adoration of the Cross; a small crucifix
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_189"> 189</a></span>
+is placed in the centre of the chapel, and all approach
+barefooted (without shoes), fall down before
+it and kiss it; during this time the "Improperia"
+are sung. I have only once heard this composition,
+but it seems to me to be one of Palestrina's finest
+works, and they sing it with remarkable enthusiasm.
+There is surprising delicacy and harmony in its
+execution by the choir; they are careful to place
+every passage in its proper light, and to render it
+sufficiently prominent without making it too conspicuous&mdash;one
+chord blending softly with the other.
+Moreover, the ceremony is very solemn and dignified,
+and the most profound silence reigns in the
+chapel.</p>
+
+<p>They sing the oft-recurring Greek "Holy" in
+the most admirable manner, each time with the
+sane smoothness and expression. You will be not
+a little surprised, however, when you see it written
+down, for they sing as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/207.jpg" width="300" height="157" alt="music207" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_190"> 190</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/208.jpg" width="300" height="178" alt="music207" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/207.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>Such passages as that at the commencement,
+where all the voices sing the very same embellishment,
+repeatedly occur, and the ear becomes accustomed
+to them. The effect of the whole is
+undoubtedly superb. I only wish you could hear
+the tenors in the first chorus, and the mode in which
+they take the high A on the word "Theos;" the
+note is so long-drawn and ringing, though softly
+breathed, that it sounds most touching. This is
+repeated again and again till all in the chapel have
+performed the Adoration of the Cross; but as on
+this occasion the crowd was not very great, I unluckily
+had not the opportunity of hearing it as
+often as I could have wished.</p>
+
+<p>I quite understand why the "Improperias" produced
+the strongest effect on Goethe, for they are
+nearly the most faultless of all, as both music and
+ceremonies, and everything connected with them,
+are in the most entire harmony. A procession follows
+to fetch the Host, which had been exposed and
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_191"> 191</a></span>
+adored on the previous evening in another chapel of
+the Quirinal, lighted up by many hundred wax-lights.
+The morning service closed at half-past one with a
+hymn in <em>canto fermo</em>. At half-past three in the
+afternoon the first nocturn began, with the Psalms,
+Lessons, etc. I corrected what I had written
+down, heard the Miserere of Baini, and about seven
+o'clock followed the Cardinals home through the
+illuminated vestibule&mdash;so all was now seen, and all
+was now over.</p>
+
+<p>I was anxious, dear Professor, to describe the
+Holy Week to you minutely, as they were memorable
+days to me, every hour bringing with it something
+interesting and long anticipated. I also
+particularly rejoiced in feeling that, in spite of the
+excitement and the numerous discussions in praise
+or blame, the solemnities made as vivid an impression
+on me, as if I had been quite free from all
+previous prejudice or prepossession. I thus saw the
+truth confirmed, that perfection, even in a sphere
+the most foreign to us, leaves its own stamp on the
+mind. May you read this long letter with even half
+the pleasure I feel in recalling the period of the
+Holy Week at Rome.</p>
+
+<p class="right">Yours faithfully,<br />
+<span class="smcap">Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy</span></p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_192"> 192</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3>Florence, June 25th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Sisters,</p>
+
+<p>On such a day as this my paternal home and those
+I love are much in my thoughts; my feelings on
+this point are rather singular. If I feel at any time
+unwell, or fatigued, or out of humour, I have no
+particular longing for my own home or for my
+family; but when brighter days ensue, when every
+hour makes an indelible impression, and every
+moment brings with it glad and pleasant sensations
+then I ardently wish that I were with you, or you
+with me; and no minute passes without my thinking
+of one or other of you, to whom I have something
+particular to say.</p>
+
+<p>I have to-day passed the whole forenoon, from ten
+till three, in the gallery; it was glorious! Besides
+all the beautiful work I saw, from which so much
+fresh benefit is always to be derived, I wandered
+about among the pictures, feeling so much sympathy,
+and such kindly emotions in gazing at them. I now
+first thoroughly realized the great charm of a large
+collection of the highest works of art. You pass
+from one to the other, sitting and dreaming for an
+hour before some picture, and then on to the next.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday was a holiday here, so to-day the Palazzo
+degli Uffizi was crowded with people who had
+come into the city to see the races, and to visit the
+far-famed gallery; chiefly peasants, male and female,
+in their country costumes. All the apartments
+were thrown open, and as I was about to contemplate
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_193"> 193</a></span>
+them for the last time. I contrived to slip
+quietly through the crowd, and to remain quite
+solitary, for I knew that I had not one acquaintance
+among them.</p>
+
+<p>The busts of the various princes who founded and
+enriched this collection, are placed near the entrance,
+at the top of the staircase. I suppose I must have
+been peculiarly susceptible to-day, for the faces of
+the Medici interested me exceedingly; they looked
+so noble and refined, so proud and so dignified. I
+stood looking at them for a long time, and imprinted
+on my memory those countenances of world-wide
+renown.</p>
+
+<p>I then went to the Tribune. This room is so delightfully
+small you can traverse it in fifteen paces,
+and yet it contains a world of art. I again sought
+out my favourite armchair, which stands under the
+statue of the "Slave Whetting his Knife" (<em>L'Arrotino</em>),
+and taking possession of it, I enjoyed myself
+for a couple of hours; for here, at one glance, I had
+the "Madonna del Cardellino," "Pope Julius II.," a
+female portrait by Raphael, and above it a lovely
+Holy Family, by Perugino; and so close to me that
+I could have touched the statue with my hand, the
+Venus de' Medici; beyond, that of Titian; on the
+other side, the "Apollino" and the "Wrestlers"
+(<em>Lottatori</em>); in front of the Raphael, the merry
+Greek Dancing Faun, who seems to feel an uncouth
+delight in discordant music, for the fellow has just
+struck two cymbals together, and is listening to the
+sound, while treading with his foot on a kind of
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_194"> 194</a></span>
+Pan's pipes, as an accompaniment: what a clown he
+is! The space between is occupied by other pictures
+of Raphael's, a portrait by Titian, a Domenichino,
+etc., and all these within the circumference of
+a small semicircle, no larger than one of your own
+rooms. This is a spot where a man feels his own
+insignificance, and may well learn to be humble.</p>
+
+<p>I occasionally walked through the other rooms,
+where a large picture by Leonardo da Vinci, only
+commenced and sketched in, with all its wild dashes
+and strokes, is very suggestive. I was especially
+struck with the genius of the monk Fra Bartolommeo,
+who must have been a man of the most devout,
+tender, and earnest spirit. There is a small picture
+of his here, which I discovered for myself. It is
+about the size of this sheet of paper, in two divisions,
+and represents the "Adoration" and the "Presentation
+in the Temple." The figures are about two-thirds
+of a finger-length in size, but finished in the
+most exquisite and consummate manner, with the
+most brilliant colouring, the brightest decorations,
+and in the most genial sunshine. You can see in
+the picture itself, that the pious <em>maestro</em> has taken
+delight in painting it, and in finishing the most minute
+details; probably with the view of giving it
+away, to gratify some friend. We feel as if the
+painter belonged to it, and still ought to be sitting
+before his work, or had only this moment left it. I
+felt the same with regard to many pictures to-day,
+especially that of the "Madonna del Cardellino,"
+which Raphael painted as a wedding-gift, and a surprise
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_195"> 195</a></span>
+for his friend. I could not help meditating on
+all these great men, so long passed away from earth,
+though their whole inner soul is still displayed in
+such lustre to us, and to all the world.</p>
+
+<p>While reflecting on these things, I came by chance
+into the room containing the portraits of great
+painters. I formerly merely regarded them in the
+light of valuable curiosities, for there are more
+than three hundred portraits, chiefly painted by the
+masters themselves, so that you see at the same
+moment the man and his work; but to-day a fresh
+idea dawned on me with regard to them,&mdash;that each
+painter resembles his own productions, and that
+each while painting his own likeness, has been careful
+to represent himself just as he really was. In
+this way you become personally acquainted with all
+these great men, and thus a new light is shed on
+many things. I will discuss this point more minutely
+with you when we meet; but I must not omit to
+say, that the portrait of Raphael is almost the most
+touching likeness I have yet seen of him. In the
+centre of a large rich screen, entirely covered with
+portraits, hangs a small solitary picture, without
+any particular designation, but the eye is instantly
+arrested by it; this is Raphael&mdash;youthful, very pale
+and delicate, and with such onward aspirations,
+such longing and wistfulness in the mouth and eyes,
+that it is as if you could see into his very soul.
+That he cannot succeed in expressing all that he
+sees and feels, and is thus impelled to go forward,
+and that he must die an early death,&mdash;all this is
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_196"> 196</a></span>
+written on his mournful, suffering, yet fervid countenance,
+and when looking at his dark eyes, which
+glance at you out of the very depths of his soul,
+and at the pained and contracted mouth, you cannot
+resist a feeling of awe.</p>
+
+<p>How I wish you could see the portrait that hangs
+above it; that of Michael Angelo, an ugly, muscular,
+savage, rugged fellow, in all the vigour of life, looking
+gruff and morose; and on the other side a wise,
+grave man, with the aspect of a lion, Leonardo da
+Vinci; but you cannot see this portrait, and I will
+not describe it in writing, but tell you of it when we
+meet. Believe me, however, it is truly glorious.
+Then I passed on to the Niobe, which of all statues
+makes the greatest impression on me; and back
+again to my painters, and to the Tribune, and
+through the Corridors, where the Roman Emperors,
+with their dignified yet knavish physiognomies,
+stare you in the face; and last of all I took a final
+leave of the Medici family.</p>
+
+<p>It was indeed a morning never to be forgotten.</p>
+
+<h3>June 26th.</h3>
+
+<p>Do not suppose however that I mean to assert
+that all days are spent thus. You must battle your
+way through the present living mob, before you can
+arrive at the nobility, long since dead, and those
+who have not a strong arm are sure to come badly
+off in the conflict. Such a journey as mine from
+Rome to Perugia, and on here, is no joke. Jean
+Paul says that the presence of a person who openly
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_197"> 197</a></span>
+hates you is most painful and oppressive. Such a
+being is the Roman <em>vetturino</em>: he grants you no
+sleep; exposes you to hunger and thirst; at night,
+when he is bound to provide you with your <em>pranzo</em>,
+he contrives that you shall not arrive till midnight,
+when every one is of course asleep, and you are
+only too thankful to get a bed. In the morning he
+sets off before four o'clock, and rests his horses at
+noon for five hours, but invariably in some solitary
+little wayside inn, where nothing is to be had. Each
+day he makes out about six German miles, and
+drives <em>piano</em>, while the sun burns <em>fortissimo</em>.</p>
+
+<p>I was very badly off owing to all this, for my
+fellow-travellers were far from being congenial;
+three Jesuits inside, and in the cabriolet, where I
+particularly desired to sit, a most disagreeable Venetian
+lady. If I wished to escape from her, I was
+obliged to go inside, and listen to the praises of
+Charles X., and to hear that Ariosto ought to have
+been burnt as a corrupt writer, subversive of all
+morality. It was still worse outside, and we never
+seemed to get on. The first day, after a journey of
+four hours, the axletree broke, and we were obliged
+to remain for nine hours in the same house in the
+Campagna where we chanced to be, and at last to
+stay all night. If there was a church on the road
+that we had an opportunity of visiting, the most
+beautiful and devotional creations of Perugino, or
+Giotto, or Cimabue, enchanted our eyes; and so we
+passed from irritation to delight, and then to irritation
+again. This was a wretched state to be in. I
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_198"> 198</a></span>
+was not in the least amused by it all; and if Nature
+had not bestowed on us bright moonshine at the
+Lake of Thrasymene, and if the scenery had not
+been so wonderfully fine, and if in every town we
+had not seen a superb church, and if we had not
+passed through a large city each day as we journeyed
+on, and if&mdash;but you see I am not easily satisfied.</p>
+
+<p>The route however was beautiful, and I must now
+describe my arrival in Florence, which also includes
+my whole Italian life of the previous days. At Incisa,
+half a day's journey from Florence, my <em>vetturino</em>
+became so intolerable from his insolence and
+abuse, that I found it necessary to take out my
+luggage, and to tell him to drive to the devil,&mdash;which
+he accordingly did, rather against his will.</p>
+
+<p>It was Midsummer's day, and a celebrated fête
+was to take place in Florence the same evening,
+which I would on no account whatever have missed.
+This is just the kind of thing that the Italians take
+advantage of, so the landlady at Incisa offered me a
+carriage at four times the proper fare. When I refused
+to take it, she said I might try to procure
+another; and so I accordingly did, but found that no
+carriages for hire were to be had, only post-horses.
+I went to the Post, and was there told, to my disgust,
+that they were at my landlady's, and that she
+had wished to make me pay an exorbitant price for
+them. I went back and demanded horses. She
+said, if I did not choose to pay what she asked, I
+should have none. I desired to see the regulations,
+which they are all obliged to have. She said there
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_199"> 199</a></span>
+was no occasion to show them, and turned her back
+on me. The use of physical strength, which plays a
+great part here, was resorted to by me on this occasion,
+for I seized her and pushed her back into a
+room (for we were standing in the passage) and then
+hurried down the street to the Podestà. It turned
+out however that there was no such person in the
+town, but that he lived four miles off. The affair
+became every instant more disagreeable, the crowd
+of boys at my heels increasing at every step. Fortunately
+a decent-looking man came up, to whom the
+mob seemed to show some respect; so I accosted
+him, and explained all that had occurred. He sympathized
+with me, and took me to a vine-dresser's
+who had a little carriage for hire.</p>
+
+<p>The whole crowd now congregated before his door,
+many pressing forward into the house after me, and
+shouting that I was mad; but the carriage drove up,
+and I threw a few scudi to an old beggar, on which
+they all called out that I was a <em>bravo Signore</em>, and
+wished me <em>buon viaggio</em>. The moderate price the
+man demanded more fully showed me the abominable
+overcharge of the landlady. The carriage was easy,
+and the horses went on at a good pace, and so we
+travelled across the hills to Florence. In the course
+of half an hour we overtook my lazy vetturino. I
+put up my umbrella to defend me from the sun, and
+I scarcely ever travelled so pleasantly and so comfortably
+as during those few hours, having left all
+annoyances behind me, and before me the prospect
+of the beautiful fête.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_200"> 200</a></span>
+Very soon the Duomo, and the hundreds of villas
+scattered through the valleys, were visible. Once
+more we passed by decorated terraces, and the tops
+of trees seen over them; the Arno valley looking
+lovelier than ever. And so I arrived here in good
+spirits and dined; and even while doing so I heard a
+tumult, and looking out of the window I saw crowds,
+both young and old, all hurrying in their holiday
+costumes across the bridges.</p>
+
+<p>I followed them to the Corso, and then to the
+races; afterwards to the illuminated Pergola, and
+last of all to a masked ball in the Goldoni Theatre.
+At one o'clock in the morning I went towards home,
+thinking that the whole affair was over; but the
+Arno was still covered with gondolas, illuminated by
+coloured lamps, and crossing each other in every
+direction. Under the bridge a large ship was passing,
+hung with green lanterns; the water shone
+brightly as it rippled along, while a still brighter
+moon looked down on the whole scene. I recalled
+to myself the various occurrences of the day, and
+the thoughts that had chased each other through
+my mind, and resolved to write them all to you. It
+is in fact a reminiscence for myself, for it may not be
+so suggestive to you, but it will one day be of service
+to me, enabling me to recall various scenes
+connected with fair Italy.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_201"> 201</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center smcap">Extract from a Letter to Frau von Pereira,
+in Vienna.</p>
+
+<h3>Genoa, July, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>At first I resolved not to answer your letter until
+I had fulfilled your injunctions, and composed
+"Napoleon's Midnight Review;" and now I have
+to ask your forgiveness for not having done so,
+but there is a peculiarity in this matter. I take
+music in a very serious light, and I consider it quite
+inadmissible to compose anything that I do not
+thoroughly feel. It is just as if I were to utter a
+falsehood; for notes have as distinct a meaning as
+words, perhaps even a more definite sense. Now it
+appears to me almost impossible to compose for a
+descriptive poem. The mass of compositions of this
+nature do not militate against this opinion, but
+rather prove its truth; for I am not acquainted with
+one single work of the kind that has been successful.
+You are placed between a dramatic conception or a
+mere narrative; the one, in the "Erl König," causes
+the willows to rustle, the child to shriek, and the
+horse to gallop. The other imagines a ballad singer,
+calmly narrating the horrible tale, as you would a
+ghost story, and this is the most accurate view of
+the two; Reichardt almost invariably adopted this
+reading, but it does not suit me; the music stands
+in my way. I feel in a far more spectral spirit when
+I read such a poem quietly to myself, and imagine
+the rest, than when it is depicted, or related to me.</p>
+
+<p>It does not answer to look on "Napoleon's Midnight
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_202"> 202</a></span>
+Review" as a narrative, inasmuch as no
+particular person speaks, and the poem is not written
+in the style of a ballad. It seems to me more like a
+clever conception than a poem; it strikes me that
+the poet himself placed no great faith in his misty
+forms.</p>
+
+<p>I could indeed have composed music for it in the
+same descriptive style, as Neukomm and Fischhof,
+in Vienna. I might have introduced a very novel
+rolling of drums in the bass, and blasts of trumpets
+in the treble, and have brought in all sorts of hobgoblins.
+But I love my serious elements of sound
+too well to do anything of the sort; for this kind of
+thing always appears to me a joke; somewhat like
+the painting's in juvenile spelling-books, where
+the roofs are coloured bright red, to make the
+children aware they are intended for roofs; and I
+should have been most reluctant to write out and
+send you anything incomplete, or that did not entirely
+please myself, because I always wish you to
+have the best I can accomplish.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Milan, July 14th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>This letter will probably be the last (D.V.) that I
+shall write to you from an Italian city; I may possibly
+send you another from the Borromean Islands,
+which I intend to visit in a few days, but do not rely
+on this.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_203"> 203</a></span>
+My week here has been one of the most agreeable
+and amusing that I have passed in Italy; and how
+this could be the case in Milan, hitherto utterly unknown
+to me, I shall now proceed to relate. In the
+first place, I immediately secured a small piano, and
+attacked with <em>rabbia</em> that endless "Walpurgis
+Night," to finish the thing at last; and to-morrow
+morning it will be completed, except the overture;
+for as yet I have not quite made up my mind whether
+it shall be a grand symphony, or a short introduction
+breathing of spring. I should like to take the
+opinion of some adept on this point. I must say
+the conclusion has turned out better than I myself
+expected. The hobgoblins and the bearded Druid,
+with the trombones sounding behind him, diverted
+me immensely, and so I passed two forenoons very
+happily.</p>
+
+<p>'Tasso' also contributed to my pleasure, which I
+have now for the first time been able to read with
+facility; it is a splendid poem. I was glad to be
+already well acquainted with Goethe's 'Tasso;'
+being constantly reminded of it by the principal
+passages of the Italian poet, whose verse, like that
+of Goethe, is so dreamy, harmonious, and tender, its
+sweet melody delighting the ear. Your favourite
+passage, dear father, "Era la notte allor," struck me
+as very beautiful, but the stanzas that I admire
+most, are those descriptive of Clorinda's death;
+they are so wonderfully imaginative, and fine. The
+close however does not quite please me. Tancred's
+'Lamentations' are, I think, more charmingly composed
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_204"> 204</a></span>
+than true to nature; they contain too many
+clever ideas and antitheses; and even the words of
+the hermit, which soothe him, sound more like a
+censure on the hermit himself. I should infallibly
+have killed him on the spot, if he had talked to me
+in such a strain.</p>
+
+<p>Recently I was reading the episode of 'Armida'
+in a carriage, surrounded by a company of Italian
+actors, who were incessantly singing Rossini's "Ma
+trema, trema," when suddenly there recurred to my
+thoughts Gluck's "Vous m'allez quitter," and Rinaldo's
+falling asleep, and the voyage in the air&mdash;and
+I felt in a most melting mood. This is genuine
+music; thus have men felt, and thus have men
+spoken, and such strains can never die. I do cordially
+hate the present licentious style. Do not take
+it amiss; your motto is, Without hatred, no love,&mdash;and
+I did feel so moved when I thought of Gluck,
+and his grand embodiments.</p>
+
+<p>Every evening I was in society, owing to a mad
+prank, which however proved very successful. I
+think I have invented this kind of eccentric proceeding,
+and may take out a patent for it, as I have
+already made my most agreeable acquaintances <em>ex
+abrupto</em>, without letters or introductions of any
+kind.</p>
+
+<p>I asked by chance on my arrival at Milan the
+name of the Commandant, and the <em>laquais de place</em>
+named General Ertmann. I instantly thought of
+Beethoven's Sonata in A major, and its dedication;
+and as I had heard all that was good of Madame
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_205"> 205</a></span>
+Ertmann, from those who knew her; that she was
+so kind, and had bestowed such loving care on
+Beethoven, and played herself so beautifully, I, next
+morning, at a suitable hour for a visit, put on a
+black coat, desired that the Government-house
+should be pointed out to me, and occupied myself
+on the way thither by composing some pretty
+speeches for the General's lady, and went on boldly.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot however deny that I felt rather dismayed
+when I was told that the General lived in the first
+story, facing the street; and when I was fairly in
+the splendid vaulted hall, I was seized with a sudden
+panic, and would fain have turned back: but I
+could not help thinking that it was vastly provincial
+on my part to take fright at a vaulted hall, so I
+went straight up to a group of soldiers standing
+near, and asked an old man in a short nankeen
+jacket, if General Ertmann lived there, intending
+then to send in my name to the lady. Unluckily
+the man replied, "I am General Ertmann: what is
+your pleasure?" This was unpleasant, as I was
+forced to have recourse to the speech I had prepared.
+The General, however, did not seem particularly
+edified by my statement, and wished to
+know whom he had the honour of addressing. This
+also was far from agreeable, but fortunately he was
+acquainted with my name, and became very polite:
+his wife, he said was not at home, but I should find
+her at two o'clock, or any hour after that which
+might suit me.</p>
+
+<p>I was glad that all had gone off so well, and in
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_206"> 206</a></span>
+the meantime went to the Brera, where I passed the
+time in studying the 'Sposalizio' of Raphael, and
+at two o'clock I presented myself to Freifrau
+Dorothea von Ertmann. She received me with
+much courtesy, and was most obliging, playing me
+Beethoven's Sonata in C sharp minor, and the one
+in D minor. The old General, who now appeared
+in his handsome grey uniform, covered with orders,
+was quite enchanted, and had tears of delight in
+his eyes, because it was so long since he had heard
+his wife play; he said there was not a person in
+Milan who cared to hear what I had heard. She
+mentioned the trio in B major, but said she could
+not remember it. I played it, and sang the other
+parts: this enchanted the old couple, and so their
+acquaintance was soon made.</p>
+
+<p>Since then their kindness to me is so great that it
+quite overwhelms me. The old General shows me
+all the remarkable objects in Milan; in the afternoon
+his lady takes me in her carriage to drive on
+the Corso, and at night we have music till one
+o'clock in the morning. Yesterday at an early hour
+they drove with me in the environs; at noon I dined
+with them, and in the evening there was a party.
+They are the most agreeable and cultivated couple
+you can imagine, and both as much in love with each
+other as if they were a newly wedded pair,&mdash;and
+yet they have been married for four-and-thirty years.
+Yesterday he spoke of his profession, of military
+life, of personal courage, and similar subjects, with
+a degree of lucidity, and liberality of feeling, that
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_207"> 207</a></span>
+I scarcely ever met with, except in my father. The
+General has been now an officer for six-and-forty
+years, and you should really see him galloping beside
+his wife's carriage in the park,&mdash;the old gentleman
+looking so dignified and animated!</p>
+
+<p>She plays Beethoven's works admirably, though
+it is so long since she studied them; she sometimes
+rather exaggerates the expression, dwelling too long
+on one passage, and then hurrying the next; but
+there are many parts that she plays splendidly, and
+I think I have learned something from her. When
+sometimes she can bring no more tone out of the
+instrument, and begins to sing in a voice that emanates
+from the very depths of her soul, she reminds
+me of you, dear Fanny, though you are infinitely
+her superior. When I was approaching the end of
+the adagio in the B major trio, she exclaimed, "The
+amount of expression here is beyond any one's playing;"
+and it is quite true of this passage.</p>
+
+<p>The following day, when I went there again to
+play her the symphony in C minor, she insisted on
+my taking off my coat, as the day was so hot. In
+the intervals of our music she related the most interesting
+anecdotes of Beethoven, and that when
+she was playing to him in the evening he not unfrequently
+used the snuffers as a tooth-pick! She told
+me that when she lost her last child, Beethoven at
+first shrank from coming to her house; but at length
+he invited her to visit him, and when she arrived,
+she found him seated at the piano, and simply
+saying, "Let us speak to each other by music," he
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_208"> 208</a></span>
+played on for more than an hour, and, as she expressed
+it, "he said much to me, and at last gave
+me consolation." In short I am now in the most
+genial mood, and quite at my ease, having no
+occasion to resort to any disguise, or to be silent,
+for we understand each other admirably on all
+points. She played the Kreutzer Sonata yesterday
+with violin accompaniment, and when the violin-player
+(an Austrian cavalry officer) made a long
+flourish, <em>à la</em> Paganini, at the beginning of the
+adagio, the old General made such a desperate
+grimace, that I nearly fell off my chair from
+laughing.</p>
+
+<p>I called on Teschner, as you, dear mother, desired
+me to do so; such a musician however is as depressing
+as a thick fog. Madame Ertmann has more
+soul in her little finger than that fellow has in his
+whole body, with his formidable moustaches, behind
+which he seems to lie in ambush. There is no
+public music in Milan; they still speak with enthusiasm
+of last winter, when Pasta and Rubini sang
+here, but say that they were miserably supported,
+and the orchestra and choruses bad. I however
+heard Pasta six years ago in Paris, and I can do the
+same every year, with the addition of a good orchestra
+and a good chorus, and many other advantages;
+so it is evident that if I wish to hear Italian music,
+I must go to Paris or to England. The Germans
+however take it amiss when you say this, and persist
+<em>par force</em> in singing, playing, and acquiring new
+ideas here, declaring this is the land of inspiration;
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_209"> 209</a></span>
+while I maintain that inspiration is peculiar to no
+country, but floats about in the air.</p>
+
+<p>Two days ago I was in the morning theatre here,
+and was amused. There you can see more of
+the life of the people than in any other part of Italy.
+It is a large theatre with boxes, the pit filled with
+wooden benches, on which you can find places if you
+come early; the stage is like every other stage, but
+there is no roof either over the pit or boxes, so that
+the bright sun shines into the theatre and into the
+eyes of the actors. Moreover, the piece they gave
+was in the Milanese dialect. You feel as if you
+were secretly watching all these complicated and
+diverting situations, and might take part in them if
+necessary, and thus the most familiar comic dilemmas
+become novel and interesting; and the public
+seem to feel the most lively interest in them. And
+now, good night. I wished to talk to you a little
+before going to bed, and so it has become a letter.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<p class="center smcap">Extracts from two Letters to Edward Devrient.</p>
+
+<h3>Milan, July 15th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>You reproach me with being two-and-twenty without
+having yet acquired fame. To this I can only
+reply, had it been the will of Providence that I
+should be renowned at the age of two-and-twenty, I
+no doubt should have been so. I cannot help it, for
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_210"> 210</a></span>
+I no more write to gain a name, than to obtain a
+Kapellmeister's place. It would be a good thing if
+I could secure both. But so long as I do not
+actually starve, so long is it my duty to write only
+as I feel, and according to what is in my heart, and
+to leave the results to <em>Him</em> who disposes of other
+and greater matters. Every day, however, I am
+more sincerely anxious to write exactly as I feel,
+and to have even less regard than ever to external
+views; and when I have composed a piece just as it
+sprang from my heart, then I have done my duty
+towards it; and whether it brings hereafter fame,
+honour, decorations, or snuff-boxes, etc., is a matter
+of indifference to me. If you mean, however, that I
+have neglected, or delayed perfecting myself, or my
+compositions, then I beg you will distinctly and
+clearly say in what respect and wherein I have done
+so. This would be indeed a serious reproach.</p>
+
+<p>You wish me to write operas, and think I am
+unwise not to have done so long ago. I answer,
+place a right libretto in my hand, and in two months
+the work shall be completed, for every day I feel
+more eager to write an opera. I think that it may
+become something fresh and spirited, if I begin it
+now; but I have got no words yet, and I assuredly
+never will write music for any poetry that does not
+inspire me with enthusiasm. If you know a man
+capable of writing the libretto of an opera, for
+Heaven's sake tell me his name, that is all I want.
+But till I have the words, you would not wish me to
+be idle&mdash;even if it were possible for me to be so?</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_211"> 211</a></span>
+I have recently written a good deal of sacred
+music; that is quite as much a necessity to me, as
+the impulse that often induces people to study some
+particular book, the Bible, or others, as the only
+reading they care for at the time. If it bears any
+resemblance to Sebastian Bach, it is again no fault
+of mine, for I wrote it just according to the mood I
+was in; and if the words inspired me with a mood
+akin to that of old Bach, I shall value it all the
+more, for I am sure you do not think that I would
+merely copy his form, without the substance; if it
+were so, I should feel such disgust and such a void,
+that I could never again finish a composition.
+Since then I have written a grand piece of music
+which will probably impress the public at large&mdash;the
+first "Walpurgis Night" of Goethe. I began
+it simply because it pleased me, and inspired me
+with fervour, and never thought that it was to be
+performed; but now that it lies finished before me, I
+see that it is quite suitable for a great <em>Concertstück</em>,
+and you must sing the Bearded Pagan Priest at my
+first subscription concert in Berlin. I wrote it expressly
+to suit your voice; and as I have hitherto
+found that the pieces I have composed with least
+reference to the public are precisely those which
+gave them the greatest satisfaction, so no doubt it
+will be on this occasion also. I only mention this
+to prove to you that I do not neglect <em>the practical</em>.
+To be sure this is invariably an after-thought, for
+who the deuce could write music, the most unpractical
+thing in the world&mdash;the very reason why I love
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_212"> 212</a></span>
+it so dearly&mdash;and yet think all the time of the practical!
+It is just as if a lover were to bring a
+declaration of love to his mistress in rhyme and
+verse, and recite it to her.</p>
+
+<p>I am now going to Munich, where they have
+offered me an opera, to see if I can find a man there
+who is a poet, for I will only have a man who has
+a certain portion of fire and genius. I do not expect
+a giant, and if I fail in meeting with a poet
+there, I shall probably make Immermann's acquaintance
+for this express purpose, and if he is not the
+man either, I shall try for him in London. I always
+fancy that the right man has not yet appeared; but
+what can I do to find him out? He certainly does
+not live in the Reichmann Hotel, nor next door; so
+where does he live? Pray write to me on this subject;
+although I firmly believe that a kind Providence,
+who sends us all things in due time when we
+stand in need of them, will supply this also if
+necessary; still we must do our duty, and look
+round us&mdash;and I do wish the libretto were found.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime I write as good music as I can,
+and hope to make progress, and we already agreed,
+when discussing this affair in my room, that, as I
+said before, I am not responsible for the rest. But
+enough now of this dry tone. I really have become
+once more almost morose and impatient, and yet I
+had so firmly resolved never again to be so!</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_213"> 213</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Lucerne, August 27th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>I quite feel that any opera I were to write now,
+would not be nearly so good as any second one I
+might compose afterwards; and that I must first
+enter on the new path I propose to myself, and pursue
+it for some little time, in order to discover
+whither it will lead, and how far it will go, whereas
+in instrumental music I already begin to know exactly
+what I really intend. Having worked so much
+in this sphere, I feel much more clear and tranquil
+with regard to it&mdash;in short, it urges me onwards.
+Besides, I have been made very humble lately, by a
+chance occurrence that still dwells on my mind.</p>
+
+<p>In the valley of Engelberg I found Schiller's
+"Wilhelm Tell," and on reading it over again, I
+was anew enchanted and fascinated by such a glorious
+work of art, and by all the passion, fire, and
+fervour it displays. An expression of Goethe's
+suddenly recurred to my mind. In the course of
+a long conversation about Schiller, he said that
+Schiller had been able to <em>supply</em> two great tragedies
+every year, besides other poems. This business-like
+term <em>supply</em>, struck me as the more remarkable on
+reading this fresh, vigorous work; and such energy
+seemed to me so wonderfully grand, that I felt as if
+in the course of my life I had never yet produced
+anything of importance; all my works seem so
+isolated. I feel as if I too must one day <em>supply</em>
+something. Pray do not think this presumptuous;
+but rather believe that I only say so because I know
+what <em>ought</em> to be, and what <em>is not</em>. Where I am
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_214"> 214</a></span>
+to find the opportunity, or even a glimpse of one, is
+hitherto to me quite a mystery. If however it be
+my mission, I firmly believe that the opportunity
+will be granted, and if I do not profit by it another
+will; but in that case I cannot divine why I feel
+such an impulse to press onwards. If you could
+succeed in not thinking about singers, decorations,
+and situations, but feel solely absorbed in representing
+men, nature, and life, I am convinced that you
+would yourself write the best libretto of any one
+living; for a person who is so familiar with the
+stage as you are, could not possibly write anything
+undramatic, and I really do not know what you
+could wish to change in your poetry. If there be
+an innate feeling for nature and melody, the verses
+cannot fail to be musical, even though they sound
+rather lame in the libretto; but so far as I am concerned,
+you may write prose if you like, I will
+compose music for it. But when one form is to be
+moulded into another, when the verses are to be
+made musically, but not <em>felt</em> musically, when fine
+words are to replace outwardly what is utterly
+deficient in fine feeling inwardly&mdash;there you are
+right&mdash;this is a dilemma from which no man can
+extricate himself; for as surely as pure metre,
+happy thoughts, and classical language do not
+suffice to make a good poem, unless a certain flash
+of poetical inspiration pervades the whole, so an
+opera can only become thoroughly musical, and
+accordingly thoroughly dramatic, by a vivid feeling
+of life in all the characters.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_215"> 215</a></span>
+There is a passage on this subject in Beaumarchais,
+who is censured because he makes his
+personages utter too few fine thoughts, and has put
+too few poetical phrases into their mouths. He
+answers, that this is not his fault. He must confess
+that during the whole time he was writing the piece,
+he was engaged in the most lively conversation with
+his <em>dramatis personæ</em>: that while seated at his writing
+table he was exclaming: "Figaro, prends garde,
+le Comte sait tout!&mdash;Ah! Comtesse, quelle imprudence!&mdash;vite,
+sauve-toi, petit page;" and then he
+wrote down their answers, whatever they chanced
+to be,&mdash;nothing more. This strikes me as being
+both true and charming.</p>
+
+<p>The sketch of the opera introducing an Italian
+Carnival, and the close in Switzerland, I already
+knew, but was not aware that it was yours. Be so
+good however as to describe Switzerland with great
+vigour, and immense spirit. If you are to depict
+an effeminate Switzerland, with <em>jodeln</em> and languishing,
+such as I saw here in the theatre last night in
+the 'Swiss Family,' when the very mountains and
+Alpine horns became sentimental, I shall lose all
+patience, and criticize you severely in Spener's
+paper. I beg you will make it full of animation,
+and write to me again on the subject.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Isola Bella, July 24th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>You no doubt imagine that you inhale the fragrance
+of orange-flowers, see blue sky, and a bright
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_216"> 216</a></span>
+sun, and a clear lake, when you merely read the
+date of this letter. Not at all! The weather is
+atrocious, rain pouring down, and claps of thunder
+heard at intervals;&mdash;the hills look frightfully bleak,
+as if the world were enshrouded in clouds; the lake
+is grey, and the sky sombre. I can smell no orange-flowers,
+and this island might quite as appropriately
+be called "Isola Brutta!" and this has gone on for
+three days! My unfortunate cloak! I am confessedly
+the "spirit of negation" (I refer to my
+mother), and as it is at present the fashion with
+every one not to consider the Borromean Islands
+"by any means so beautiful," and somewhat formal;
+and as the weather seems resolved to disgust me
+with this spot,&mdash;from a spirit of opposition I maintain
+that it is perfectly lovely. The approach to
+these islands, where you see crowded together green
+terraces with quaint statues, and many old-fashioned
+decorations, along with verdant foliage, and every
+species of southern vegetation, has a peculiar charm
+for me, and yet something affecting and solemn too.
+For what I last year saw in all the luxuriance and
+exuberance of wild nature, and to which my eye had
+become so accustomed, I find now cultivated by art,
+and about to pass away from me for ever. There
+are citron-hedges and orange-bushes; and sharp-pointed
+aloes shoot up from the walls&mdash;it is just as
+if, at the end of a piece, the beginning were to be
+repeated; and this, as you know, I particularly like.</p>
+
+<p>In the steamboat was the first peasant girl I have
+seen here in Swiss costume; the people speak a bad
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_217"> 217</a></span>
+half-French Italian. This is my last letter from
+Italy, but believe me the Italian lakes are not the
+least interesting objects in this country; <em>anzi</em>,&mdash;I
+never saw any more beautiful. People tried to persuade
+me that the gigantic forms of the Swiss Alps
+that have haunted me from my childhood<a name="FNanchor_17" id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> had been
+exaggerated by my imagination, and that after all
+a snowy mountain was not in reality so grand as I
+thought. I almost dreaded being undeceived, but
+at first sight of the foreground of the Alps from the
+Lake of Como, veiled in clouds, with here and there
+a surface of bright snow, sharp black points rearing
+their heads, and sinking precipitously into the lake,
+the hills first scattered over with trees and villages,
+and covered with moss, and then bleak and desolate,
+and on every side deep ravines filled with
+snow,&mdash;I felt just as I formerly did, and saw that I
+had exaggerated nothing.</p>
+
+<p>In the Alps all is more free, more sharply defined;
+more uncivilized, if you will: yet I always feel there
+both healthier and happier. I have just returned
+from the gardens of the Palace, which I visited in
+the midst of the rain. I wished to imitate Albano,<a name="FNanchor_18" id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>
+and sent for a barber to open a vein: he however
+misunderstood my purpose, and shaved me instead,&mdash;a
+very pardonable mistake. Gondolas are landing
+on every part of the island, for to-day is the fête
+following the great festival of yesterday, in honour
+of which the P. P. Borromeo sent for singers and
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_218"> 218</a></span>
+musicians from Milan, to sing and play to the
+islanders. The gardener asked me if I knew what
+a wind instrument was. I said with a clear conscience
+that I did; and he replied that I ought to
+try to imagine the effect of thirty such instruments,
+and violins and basses, all played at once; but indeed
+I could not possibly imagine it, for it must be heard
+to be believed. The sounds (continued he) seemed
+to come from Heaven, and all this was produced by
+<em>philharmony</em>. What he meant by this term I know
+not; but the music had evidently made more impression
+on him, than the best orchestra often does on
+musical connoisseurs. At this moment some one
+has just begun to play the organ in the church for
+Divine service, in the following strain:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/236.jpg" width="300" height="247" alt="music236" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/236.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_219"> 219</a></span>
+Full organ in the bass, Bourdon 16, and reed stops,
+have a very fine effect. The fellow has come all the
+way from Milan, too, expressly to make this disturbance
+in the church. I must go there for a little,
+so farewell for a few moments. I intend to remain
+here for the night, instead of crossing the lake
+again, for I am so much pleased with this little
+island. I certainly cannot say that I have slept
+soundly for the last two nights; one night owing to
+the innumerable claps of thunder, the next owing to
+the innumerable fleas; and, in all probability, I have
+to-night the prospect of both combined. But as the
+following morning I shall be speaking French, and
+have left Italy, and crossed the Simplon, I mean to
+ramble about all this day and to-morrow in true
+Italian fashion.</p>
+
+<p>I must now relate to you historically how I happened
+to come here. At the very last moment of
+my stay in Milan, the Ertmanns came to my room to
+bid me farewell, and we took leave of each other
+more cordially than I have done of any one for
+many a long day. I promised to send you many
+kind wishes from them, though they are unacquainted
+with you, and I also agreed to write to them occasionally.
+Another valued acquaintance I made
+there, is Herr Mozart, who holds an office in Milan;
+but he is a musician, heart and soul. He is said to
+bear the strongest resemblance to his father, especially
+in disposition; for the very same phrases
+that affect the feelings in his father's letters, from
+their candour and simplicity, constantly recur in the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_220"> 220</a></span>
+conversation of the son, whom no one can fail to
+love from the moment he is known. For instance,
+I consider it a very charming trait in him, that he is
+as jealous of the fame and name of his father, as if
+he were an incipient young musician; and one evening,
+at the Ertmanns', when a great many of
+Beethoven's works had been played, the Baroness
+asked me in a whisper to play something of Mozart's,
+otherwise his son would be quite mortified; so when
+I played the overture to "Don Juan," he began to
+thaw, and begged me to play also the overture to
+the "Flauto Magico" of his "<em>Vatter</em>," and seemed
+to feel truly filial delight in hearing it: it is impossible
+not to like him.</p>
+
+<p>He gave me letters to some friends near the Lake
+of Como, which procured me for once a glimpse of
+Italian provincial life, and I amused myself famously
+there for a few days with the Doctor, the Apothecary,
+the Judge, and other people of the locality. There
+were very lively discussions on the subject of Sand,
+and many expressed great admiration of him; this
+appeared strange to me, as the occurrence is of such
+distant date that no one any longer argues on the
+subject. They also spoke of Shakspeare's plays,
+which are now being translated into Italian. The
+Doctor said that the tragedies were good, but that
+there were some plays about witches that were too
+stupid and childish: one, in particular, "Il Sonno
+d' una Notte di Mezza State." In it the stale device
+occurred of a piece being rehearsed in the play,
+and it was full of anachronisms and childish ideas;
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_221"> 221</a></span>
+on which they all chimed in that it was very silly
+and advised me not to read it.<a name="FNanchor_19" id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> I remained meekly
+silent, and attempted no defence! I bathed frequently
+in the Lake, and sketched, and yesterday
+rowed on the Lake of Lugano, which frowned
+sternly on us with its cascades and dark canopy of
+clouds; then across the hills to Luvino, and to-day
+I came here by steam.</p>
+
+<p><em>Evening.</em>&mdash;I have this moment returned from the
+Isola Madre, and most splendid it is; spacious, and
+full of terraces, citron-hedges, and evergreen shrubs.
+The weather has at last become less inclement; thus
+the large white house on the island, with its ruins
+and terraces, looked very pretty. It is indeed a
+unique land, and I only wish I could bring with me
+to Berlin a portion of the same balmy air that I inhaled
+when in the boat to-day. You have nothing
+like it, and I would rather you enjoyed it, than all
+the people who imbibe it here. A fiercely moustachioed
+German was with me in the boat, who examined
+all the beautiful scenery as if he were about
+to purchase it and thought it too dear. Presently
+I heard a trait quite in the style of Jean Paul.
+When we were walking on the island, surrounded by
+verdure, an Italian, who was of the party, observed
+that this was a spot well adapted for lovers to ramble
+in, and to enjoy the charms of nature. "Ah!
+yes!" said I, in a languishing tone. "It was on
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_222"> 222</a></span>
+this account," continued he, "that I separated from
+my wife ten years ago; I established her at Venice
+in a small tobacconist's shop, and now I live as I
+please. You must one day do the same."</p>
+
+<p>The old boatman told us that he had rowed General
+Bonaparte on this lake, and related various
+anecdotes of him and Murat. He said Murat was
+a most extraordinary man; all the time that he was
+rowing him on the lake, he never ceased singing to
+himself for a single moment, and once when setting
+off on a journey he gave him his spirit-flask, and said
+he would buy another for himself in Milan. I cannot
+tell why these little traits, especially the singing,
+seemed to realize the man in my mind more than
+many a book of history.</p>
+
+<p>The "Walpurgis Nacht" is finished and revised,
+and the overture will soon be equally far advanced.
+The only person who has heard it as yet, is Mozart,
+and he was so delighted with it that the well-known
+composition caused me fresh pleasure; he insisted
+on my publishing it immediately. Pray forgive this
+letter, written in true student phraseology. You no
+doubt perceive from its style that I have not worn a
+neckcloth for a week past; but I wished you to
+know how gay and happy I have been during the
+days spent among the mountains, and with what
+pleasure I look forward to those that yet await me.</p>
+
+<p class="right">Yours, <span class="smcap">Felix</span>.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_223"> 223</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>A l'Union-prieuré de Chamounix, end of July, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>My dear Parents,</p>
+
+<p>I cannot refrain from writing to you from time to
+time, to thank you for my wondrously beautiful
+journey; and if I ever did so before, I must do so
+again now, for more delightful days than those on
+my journey hither, and during my stay here, I never
+experienced. Fortunately you already know this
+valley, so there is no occasion for me to describe it
+to you; indeed, how could I possibly have done so?
+But this I may say, that nowhere has nature in all
+her glory met my eyes in such brightness as here,
+both when I saw it with you for the first time and
+now; and as every one who sees it, ought to thank
+God for having given him faculties to comprehend,
+and to appreciate such grandeur, so I must also
+thank you for having supplied me with the means of
+enjoying such a pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>I had been told that I exaggerated the forms of
+the mountains in my imagination; but yesterday, at
+the hour of sunset, I was pacing up and down in
+front of the house, and each time that I turned my
+back on the mountains, I endeavoured vividly to
+represent to myself these gigantic masses, and each
+time when I again faced them, they far exceeded my
+previous conceptions. Like the morning that we
+drove away from this when the sun was rising<a name="FNanchor_20" id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> (no
+doubt you remember it) the hills have been clear
+and lovely ever since I arrived. The snow pure,
+and sharply defined, and apparently near in the dark
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_224"> 224</a></span>
+blue atmosphere; the glaciers thundering unremittingly,
+as the ice is melting; when clouds gather,
+they lie lightly on the base of the mountains, the
+summits of which stand forth clear above. Would
+that we could see them together! I have passed
+this whole day here quietly, and entirely alone. I
+wished to sketch the outlines of the mountains, so I
+went out and found an admirable point of view, but
+when I opened my book, the paper seemed so very
+small that I hesitated about attempting it. I have
+indeed succeeded in giving the outlines what is
+called <em>correctly</em>,&mdash;but every stroke looks so formal,
+when compared with the grace and freedom which
+everywhere here pervade nature. And then the
+splendour of colour! In short, this is the most
+brilliant point of my travels; and the whole of my
+excursion on foot, so solitary, independent, and
+enjoyable, is something new to me, and a hitherto
+unknown pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>I must however relate how I came here, otherwise
+my letter at last will contain nothing but exclamations.
+As I previously wrote to you, I had the most
+odious weather on the Lago Maggiore, and the
+Islands. It continued so incessantly stormy, cold,
+and wet, that the same evening I took my place in
+the diligence in rather a sulky humour, and we drove
+on towards the Simplon. Scarcely had we been
+journeying for half an hour, when the moon came
+out, the clouds dispersed, and next morning the
+weather was most bright and beautiful. I felt almost
+ashamed of this undeserved good fortune, and I
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_225"> 225</a></span>
+could now thoroughly enjoy the glorious scenery;
+the road winding first through high green valleys,
+then through rocky ravines and meadows, and at
+last past glaciers and snowy mountains. I had with
+me a little French book on the subject of the Simplon
+road, which both pleased and affected me; for
+the subject was Napoleon's correspondence with the
+<em>Directoire</em> about the projected work, and the first
+report of the General who crossed the mountain.
+With what spirit and vigour these letters are
+written! and yet a little swagger too, but with such
+a glow of enthusiasm that it quite touched me, as I
+was driven along this capital level road by an
+Austrian postilion. I compared the fire and poetry
+displayed in every description contained in these
+letters (I mean those of the subaltern General) with
+the eloquence of the present day, which leaves you
+so terribly cold and is so odiously prosaic in all its
+philanthropic views, and so lame&mdash;where there is
+plenty of <em>fanfaronnade</em>, but no genuine youth&mdash;and
+I could not but feel that a great epoch has passed
+away for ever. I was unable to divest myself of the
+idea that Napoleon never saw this work&mdash;one of his
+favourite conceptions&mdash;for he never crossed the
+Simplon when the road was finished, and was thus
+deprived of this great gratification. High up, in
+the Simplon village, all is bleak, and I actually
+shivered from cold for the first time during the last
+year and a half. A neat civil Frenchwoman keeps
+the inn on the summit, and it would not be easy to
+describe the sensation of satisfaction caused by its
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_226"> 226</a></span>
+thrifty cleanliness, which is nowhere to be found in
+Italy.</p>
+
+<p>We then descended into the Valais, as far as
+Brieg, where I stayed all night, overjoyed to find
+myself once more among honest, natural people, who
+could speak German, and who plundered me into
+the bargain in the most infamous manner. The
+following day I drove through the Valais&mdash;an enchanting
+journey: the road all along, like those you
+have seen in Switzerland, ran between two lofty
+ranges of mountains, their snowy peaks starting up
+at intervals, and through avenues of green, leafy
+walnut-trees, standing in front of pretty brown
+houses,&mdash;below, the wild grey Rhone,&mdash;past Lenk,
+and every quarter of an hour a village with a little
+church. From Martigny I travelled for the first
+time in my life literally on foot, and as I found the
+guides too dear I went on quite alone, and started
+with my cloak and knapsack on my shoulders.
+About a couple of hours later I met a stout peasant
+lad, who became my guide, and also carried my knapsack;
+and so we went on past Forclas to Trient, a
+little dairy village, where I breakfasted on milk and
+honey, and thence to the Col de Balme.</p>
+
+<p>The whole valley of Chamouni, and Mont Blanc,
+with all its precipitous glaciers, lay before me bathed
+in sunshine. A party of gentlemen and ladies (one
+of the latter very pretty and young) came from the
+opposite side on mules, with a number of guides;
+scarcely had we all assembled under one roof, when
+subtle vapours began to rise, shrouding first the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_227"> 227</a></span>
+mountain and then the valley, and at last thickly
+covering every object, so that soon nothing was to
+be seen. The ladies were afraid of going out into
+the fog, just as if they were not already in the midst
+of it; at last they set off, and from the window I
+watched the singular spectacle of the caravan
+leaving the house, all laughing, and talking loudly
+in French and English and <em>patois</em>. The voices
+presently became indistinct; then the figures likewise;
+and last of all I saw the pretty girl in her wide
+Scotch cloak; then only glimpses of grey shadows
+at intervals, and they all disappeared. A few minutes
+later I ran down the opposite side of the mountain
+with my guide; we soon emerged once more into
+sunshine, and entered the green valley of Chamouni
+with its glaciers; and at length arrived here at the
+Union. I have just returned from a ramble to
+Montanvert, the Mer de Glace, and to the source of
+the Arveiron. You know this splendid scenery, and
+so you will forgive me, if, instead of going to Geneva
+to-morrow, I first make the tour of Mont Blanc, that
+I may become acquainted with this personage from
+the southern side also, which is I hear the most
+striking. Farewell, dear parents! May we have a
+happy meeting!&mdash;Yours,</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<h3>Charney, August 6th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>My dear Sisters,</p>
+
+<p>You have, I know, read Ritter's "Afrika" from
+beginning to end, but still I do not think you know
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_228"> 228</a></span>
+where Charney is situated, so fetch out Keller's old
+travelling map, that you may be able to accompany
+me on my wanderings. Trace with your finger a
+line from Vevay to Clarens, and thence to the Dent
+de Jaman; this line represents a footpath; and where
+your finger has been my legs also went this morning&mdash;for
+it is now only half-past seven, and I am still
+fasting. I mean to breakfast here, and am writing
+to you in a neat wooden room, waiting till the milk
+is made warm for me; without, I have a view of the
+bright blue lake; and so I now begin my journal, and
+mean to continue it as I best can during my pedestrian
+tour.</p>
+
+<p><em>After breakfast.</em>&mdash;Heavens! here is a pretty business.
+My landlady has just told me with a long
+face, that there is not a creature in the village to
+show me the way across the Dent, or to carry my
+knapsack, except a young girl; the men being all at
+work. I usually set off every morning very early
+and quite alone, with my bundle on my shoulders,
+because I find the guides from the inns both too
+expensive and too tiresome; a couple of hours later
+I hire the first honest-looking lad I see, and so I
+travel famously on foot. I need not say how enchanting
+the lake and the road hither were; you
+must recall for yourself all the beauties you once
+enjoyed there. The footpath is in continued shade,
+under walnut-trees and up hill,&mdash;past villas and
+castles,&mdash;along the lake which glitters through the
+foliage; villages everywhere, and brooks and streams
+rushing along from every nook, in every village;
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_229"> 229</a></span>
+then the neat tidy houses,&mdash;it is all quite too charming,
+and you feel so fresh and so free. Here comes
+the girl with her steeple hat. I can tell you she is
+vastly pretty into the bargain, and her name is
+Pauline; she has just packed my things into her
+wicker basket. Adieu!</p>
+
+<h3>Evening, Château d'Oex, candle-light.</h3>
+
+<p>I have had the most delightful journey. What
+would I not give to procure you such a day! But
+then you must first become two youths and be able to
+climb actively, and drink milk when the opportunity
+offered, and treat with contempt the intense heat,
+the many rocks in the way, the innumerable holes in
+the path, and the still larger holes in your boots,
+and I fear you are rather too dainty for this; but it
+was most lovely! I shall never forget my journey
+with Pauline; she is one of the nicest girls I ever
+met, so pretty and healthy-looking, and naturally
+intelligent; she told me anecdotes about her village,
+and I in return told her about Italy; but I know
+who was the most amused.</p>
+
+<p>The previous Sunday, all the young people of <em>distinction</em>
+in her village had gone to a place far across
+the mountain, to dance there in the afternoon. They
+set off shortly after midnight, arrived while it was
+still dark, lighted a large fire and made coffee. Towards
+morning the men had running and wrestling
+matches before the ladies, (we passed a broken hedge
+testifying to the truth of this;) then they danced, and
+were at home again by Sunday evening, and early on
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_230"> 230</a></span>
+Monday morning they all resumed their labours in
+the vineyards. By Heavens, I felt a strong inclination
+to become a Vaudois peasant, while I was listening
+to Pauline, when from above she pointed out to
+me the villages where they dance when the cherries
+are ripe, and others where they dance when the cows
+go to pasture in the meadows and give milk. To-morrow
+they are to dance in St. Gingolph; they row
+across the lake, and any one who can play, takes his
+instrument with him; but Pauline is not to be of the
+party, because her mother will not allow it, from
+dread of the wide lake, and many other girls also
+do not go for the same reason, as they all cling together.</p>
+
+<p>She then asked my leave to say good-day to a
+cousin of hers, and ran down to a neat cottage in the
+meadow; soon the two girls came out together and
+sat on a bench and chattered; on the Col de Jaman
+above, I saw her relations busily mowing, and herding
+the cows.</p>
+
+<p>What cries and shouts ensued! Then those above
+began to <em>jodel</em>, on which they all laughed. I did not
+understand one syllable of their <em>patois</em>, except the
+beginning, which was, Adieu Pierrot! All these
+sounds were taken up by a merry mad echo, that
+shouted and laughed and <em>jodelled</em> too. Towards
+noon we arrived at Allière. When I had rested for
+a time, I once more shouldered my knapsack, for a
+fat old man provoked me by offering to carry it for
+me; then Pauline and I shook hands, and we took
+leave of each other. I descended into the meadows,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_231"> 231</a></span>
+and if you do not care about Pauline, or if I have
+bored you with her, it is not my fault, but that of the
+mode in which I have described her; nothing could
+be more pleasant in reality, and so was my further
+journey. I came to a cherry-orchard, where the
+people were gathering the fruit, so I lay down on the
+grass and ate cherries for a time along with them.
+I took my mid-day rest at Latine, in a clean wooden
+house. The carpenter who built it gave me his company
+to some roast lamb, and pointed out to me with
+pride every table, and press, and chair.</p>
+
+<p>At length I arrived here, at night, through dazzling
+green meadows, interspersed with houses, surrounded
+by fir-trees and rivulets: the church here stands on a
+velvet green eminence; more houses in the distance,
+and still further away, huts and rocks; and in a
+ravine, patches of snow still lying on the plain. It
+is one of those idyllic spots such as we have seen
+together in Wattwyl, but the village smaller and the
+mountains more green and lofty. I must conclude
+however to-day by a high eulogy on the Canton de
+Vaud. Of all the countries I know this is the most
+beautiful, and it is the spot where I should most like
+to live when I become really old. The people are so
+contented, and look so well, and the country also.
+Coming from Italy it is quite touching to see the
+honesty that still exists in the world,&mdash;happy faces,
+a total absence of beggars, or saucy officials: in short,
+there is the most complete contrast between the two
+nations. I thank God for having created so much
+that is beautiful; and may it be His gracious will to
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_232"> 232</a></span>
+permit us all, whether in Berlin, England, or in the
+Château d'Oex, to enjoy a happy evening and a
+tranquil night!</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Boltigen, August 7th, evening.</h3>
+
+<p>The lightning and thunder are terrific outside, and
+torrents of rain besides; in the mountains you first
+learn respect for weather. I have not gone further,
+for it would have been such a pity to traverse the
+lovely Simmen valley under an umbrella. It was
+grey morning, but delightfully cool for walking in
+the forenoon. The valley at Saanen, and the whole
+road, is incredibly fresh and gay. I am never weary
+of looking at the verdure. I do believe that if
+during a long life I were always gazing at undulating
+verdant meadows, dotted over with reddish-brown
+houses, I should always experience the same
+pleasure in looking at them. The road winds the
+whole way through meadows of this kind, and past
+running streams.</p>
+
+<p>At noon I dined at Zweisimmen, in one of those
+enormous Bernese houses, where everything glitters
+with neatness and cleanliness, and where even the
+smallest detail is carefully attended to. I there
+dispatched my knapsack by the diligence to Interlaken,
+and am now about to walk as a regular
+pedestrian through the country; a shirt in my
+pocket, a brush and comb, and my sketch-book, this
+is all I require; but I am very tired. May the
+weather be fine to-morrow!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_233"> 233</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Wimmis, the 8th.</h3>
+
+<p>A pretty affair! the weather is three times as bad
+as ever. I must give up my plan of going to Interlaken
+to-day, as there is no possibility of getting
+on. For the last few hours the water has been
+pouring straight down, as if the clouds above had
+been fairly squeezed out; the roads are as soft as
+feather-beds; only occasional shreds of the mountains
+are to be seen, and even these but rarely. I
+almost thought sometimes that I was in the Margravate
+of Brandenburg, and the Simmen valley looked
+perfectly flat. I was obliged to button my waistcoat
+tight over my sketch-book, for very soon my
+umbrella was of no use whatever, and so I arrived
+here to dinner about one o'clock. I had my breakfast
+in the following place. [<em>Vide</em> page <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.]</p>
+
+
+<h3>Weissenburg, August 8th.</h3>
+
+<p>I sketched this on the spot with a pen, so do not
+laugh at the bold stream. I passed the night very
+uncomfortably at Boltigen. There was no room in
+the inn, owing to a fair, so I was obliged to lodge
+in an adjacent house, where there were swarms of
+vermin quite as bad as in Italy, a creaking house
+clock, striking hoarsely every hour, and a baby that
+screeched the whole night. I really could not help
+for a time noticing the child's cries, for it screamed
+in every possible key, expressive of every possible
+emotion; first angry, then furious, then whining, and
+when it could screech no longer, it grunted in a
+deep bass. Let no one tell me that we must wish
+to return to the days of our childhood, because children
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_234"> 234</a></span>
+are so happy. I am convinced that such a
+little mortal as this, flies into a rage just as we do,
+and has also his sleepless nights, and his passions,
+and so forth.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/252.jpg" width="500" height="609" alt="Weissenburg sketch" />
+</div>
+
+<p>This philosophical view occurred to me this morning,
+while I was sketching Weissenburg, and so I
+wished to communicate it to you on the spot; but I
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_235"> 235</a></span>
+took up the 'Constitutionnel,' in which I read that
+Casimir Périer wishes to resign, and many other
+things that furnish matter for reflection; among
+others a most remarkable article on the cholera,
+which I should like to transcribe, for it is so extraordinary.
+The existence of this disease is totally
+and absolutely denied; only one person had it in
+Dantzic,&mdash;a Jew,&mdash;and he got well. Then followed
+a number of "Hegelisms" in French, and the election
+of the deputies&mdash;oh world!&mdash;As soon as I had
+finished reading the paper, I was obliged to set off
+again in the rain through the meadows. No such
+enchanting country as this is to be seen, even in a
+dream; in the worst weather, the little churches, and
+the numerous houses, and shrubs, and rills are still
+truly lovely. The verdure to-day was quite in its
+element. Dinner has been long over, and it is still
+pouring. I intend to go no further than Spiez this
+evening. I regret much that I can neither see this
+place, which seems beautifully situated, nor Spiez,
+which I know from Rösel's sketches. This is, in
+fact, the climax of the whole Simmen valley, and
+thence the old song says:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/253.jpg" width="300" height="126" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_236"> 236</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img src="images/254.jpg" width="300" height="68" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/253-4.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>I sang this the whole day while walking along.
+The Siebethal, however, showed no gratitude for the
+compliment, and the rain continued unremittingly.</p>
+
+<h3>Wyler, evening.</h3>
+
+<p>They could not take me in at Spiez, for there is
+no inn there where you can lodge, so I was obliged
+to return here. I very much admired the situation
+of Spiez; it is built on a rock, which projects into
+the lake, with numbers of turrets, and gables, and
+peaks. There I saw a manor-house, with an orangery;
+a sulky-looking nobleman with two sporting
+dogs at his heels; a little church, and terraces with
+bright flowers. It was all very lovely. To-morrow
+I shall see it from the other side, if the weather permits.
+To-day it has rained for three hours consecutively,
+and I was well soaked on the way here. The
+mountain streams are superb in such weather, for
+they leap and rage furiously. I crossed one of these
+demons, the Kander, which seemed to have taken
+leave of its senses, leaping and blustering, and
+foaming; the water looked quite brown, and scattered
+its yellow spray in all directions. A black
+peak of the mountains was here and there visible
+through the rain-laden clouds, which hung deeper
+into the valley than I ever before saw them. Yet
+the day was most enjoyable.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_237"> 237</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Wyler, the 9th, morning.</h3>
+
+<p>To-day the weather is worse than ever. It has
+rained the whole night through, and this morning
+too it is pouring. I have however intimated that
+I shall not set out in such weather, and if it continues
+I shall write to you again to-night from
+Wyler. In the meantime I have an opportunity
+of making acquaintance with my Swiss host. They
+are very primitive. I could not get on my shoes,
+because they had shrunk, owing to the rain. The
+landlady asked if I wished to have a shoe-horn; and
+as I said I did, she brought me a tablespoon; but
+it answered the purpose. And moreover they are
+eager politicians. Over my bed hangs a horrible
+distorted face, under which is written. "Brinz
+Baniadofsgi." If he had not a kind of Polish costume,
+it would be difficult to discover whether it is
+intended for a man or a woman, for neither the portrait
+itself nor the inscription throw much light on
+the subject.</p>
+
+<h3>Evening, at Untersee.</h3>
+
+<p>All jesting is turned into sad earnest, which in
+these days may easily be the case. The storm has
+raged furiously, and caused great damage and
+devastation; the people here say that they remember
+no more violent storm and rain for many years;
+and the hurricane rushes on with such incredible
+rapidity. This morning early the weather was
+merely wet and disagreeable, and yet this afternoon
+all the bridges are swept away, and every passage
+blocked up for the moment. There has been a
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_238"> 238</a></span>
+landslip at the Lake of Brienz, and everything is in
+an uproar.</p>
+
+<p>I have just heard here that war has been proclaimed
+in Europe; so the world certainly bears a
+wild, bleak aspect at this time, and I ought to feel
+thankful, that at all events for the present I have a
+warm room here, and a comfortable roof over my
+head. The rain ceased for a time early this morning,
+and I thought that the clouds were fairly
+exhausted; so I left Wyler, but soon found that
+the roads were sadly cut up; but worse was to
+come; the rain began again gently, but came down
+so violently about nine o'clock, and in such sudden
+squalls, that it was evident something strange was
+brewing. I crept into a half built hut, where a
+great mass of fodder was lying, and nestled comfortably
+among the fragrant hay. A soldier of the
+Canton, who was on his way to Thun, also crept in
+from the other side, and in the course of an hour, as
+the weather did not improve, we went on our different
+paths.</p>
+
+<p>I was obliged to take shelter again under a roof
+at Leisengen, and waited there a long time; but as
+my luggage was at Interlaken, a distance of only
+two hours from thence, I thought that I would set
+the weather at defiance; so about one o'clock I set
+out for Interlaken. There was literally nothing to
+be seen but the grey surface of the lake,&mdash;no mountains,
+and seldom even the outlines of the opposite
+shore. The little springs, which as you may remember
+often run along by the footpaths, had swollen into
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_239"> 239</a></span>
+streams, through which I was obliged to wade; and
+where the road was hilly, the waters accumulated
+in the hollows and formed a pool, so I was forced to
+jump over dripping hedges, into marshy meadows;
+the small blocks of wood&mdash;by means of which
+brooks are crossed here&mdash;lay deep under the water; at
+one moment I found myself between two of these
+brooks, which had run into each other, and for a
+considerable time I was obliged to walk against the
+current, above my ankles in water. All the streams
+are black, or chocolate-brown, looking like earth
+flowing along. Torrents poured down from above;
+the wind shook down the water from the dripping
+walnut-trees; the waterfalls which tumble into the
+lake thundered frightfully from both shores. You
+could trace the course of the brown muddy streaks,
+rushing along through the pure waters of the lake,
+which, in the midst of all this uproar, remained perfectly
+tranquil, its surface scarcely ruffled, quietly
+receiving all the blustering streams that poured
+into its bosom.</p>
+
+<p>A man now came up, who had taken off his shoes
+and stockings, and turned up his trowsers. This
+made me feel rather nervous. Presently I met two
+women, who said that I could not go through the
+village, for all the bridges were gone. I asked how
+far it was to Interlaken. "A good hour," they said.
+I could not make up my mind to turn back, so I went
+on towards the village, where the people shouted to
+me from the windows, that I could come no further,
+because the waters were rushing down so impetuously
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_240"> 240</a></span>
+from the mountains; and certainly there was a fine
+commotion in the middle of the village. The muddy
+stream had swept everything along with it, eddying
+round the houses, and running along the meadows
+and footpaths, and finally thundering down into the
+lake. Luckily there was a little boat there, in which
+I was ferried across to Neuhaus, though this expedition
+in an open boat, in torrents of rain, was far from
+pleasant. My condition, when I arrived at Neuhaus,
+was miserable enough; I looked as if I wore
+long black boots over my light-coloured trowsers,
+my shoes and stockings quite up to my knees, dark
+brown; then came the original white, then a soaked
+blue paletôt; even my sketch-book, that I had buttoned
+under my waistcoat, was wet through.</p>
+
+<p>I arrived in this plight at Interlaken, where I
+was very ill received, for the people there either
+could not or would not find room for me, and so I
+was forced to return to Untersee, where I am
+famously lodged, and most comfortable. Singularly
+enough, I had been all along anticipating with such
+pleasure revisiting the inn at Interlaken, of which
+I had so many reminiscences, and I drove up in my
+little Neuhaus carriage to the Nuss-Baum Platz,
+and saw the well-known glass gallery; the pretty
+landlady, too, came to the door, but somewhat aged
+and altered. Neither the dreadful storms, nor the
+various discomforts I had endured, annoyed me half
+so much as not being able to remain at Interlaken,
+consequently for the first time since I left Vevay I
+was out of humour for half an hour, and obliged to
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_241"> 241</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/259.jpg" width="300" height="58" alt="music259a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/259a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>sing Beethoven's adagio in A flat major, three or
+four times over, before I could recover my equanimity.
+I learned here, for the first time, the damage
+the storm had already done, and may yet do, for the
+rain is still incessant.</p>
+
+<p><em>Half-past Nine o'clock at Night.</em>&mdash;The bridge at
+Zweilütschenen is carried away; the <em>vetturini</em> from
+Brienz, and Grindelwald, will not encounter the risk
+of driving home, from the fear of some rock falling
+on their heads. The water here has risen to within
+a foot and a half of the Aar bridge; the gloom of
+the sky I cannot describe. I mean to wait here patiently;
+besides, I do not require the aid of localities,
+to enable me to summon up my reminiscences. They
+have given me a room where there is a piano; it
+indeed bears the date of the year 1794, and somewhat
+resembles in tone the little old "Silbermann"
+in my room at home, so I took a fancy to it at the
+very first chord I struck, and it also recalls you to
+my mind. This piano has outlived many things, and
+probably never dreamt that I was likely to compose
+by its aid, as I was not born till 1809, now fully
+two-and-twenty years ago; in the meantime, the
+piano, though seven-and-thirty years old, has plenty
+of good material in it yet.</p>
+
+<p>I have some new "Lieder" in hand, dear sisters.
+You have not seen my favourite one in E major
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_242"> 242</a></span>
+"Auf der Reise,"&mdash;it is very sentimental. I am now
+composing one which will not, I fear, be very good;
+but it will, at all events, please us three, for it is at
+least well intended. The words are Goethe's, but I
+don't say what they are; it is very daring in me to
+compose for this poetry, and the words are by no
+means suitable for music, but I thought them so
+divinely beautiful, that I could not resist singing
+them to myself. Enough for to-day; so good night,
+dear ones.</p>
+
+<h3>August 10th.</h3>
+
+<p>The weather this morning is clear and bright, and
+the storm has passed away; would that all storms
+ended as quickly, and were as soon allayed! I have
+passed a glorious day, sketching, composing, and
+inhaling fresh air. In the afternoon I went on horseback
+to Interlaken, for no man can go there on foot
+at this moment. The whole road is flooded, so that
+even on horseback I got very wet. In this place,
+too, every street is inundated and impassable. How
+beautiful Interlaken is! How humble and insignificant
+we feel when we see how splendid the good
+Lord has made this world; and nowhere can you see
+it in greater magnificence than here. I sketched for
+my father one of the walnut-trees he so much admires,
+and for the same reason I mean to send him a
+faithful drawing of one of the Bernese houses. Various
+parties of ladies and gentlemen, and children,
+drove past and stared at me; I thought to myself
+that they were now enjoying the same luxury I
+formerly did, and would fain have called out to them
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_243"> 243</a></span>
+not to forget this! Towards evening, the snowy
+mountains were glowing in the clearest outlines and
+in the loveliest hues.</p>
+
+<p>When I came back. I asked for some music paper,
+and they referred me to their Pastor, and he to the
+Forest-ranger, whose daughter gave me two pretty
+neat sheets. The "Lied" which I alluded to yesterday
+is now finished; I cannot help after all telling you
+what it is&mdash;but you must not laugh at me&mdash;it is actually,&mdash;but
+don't think I am seized with hydrophobia&mdash;a
+sonnet, "Die Liebende schreibt."<a name="FNanchor_21" id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> I am afraid
+its merit is not great; I think it was more inwardly
+felt than outwardly well expressed; still there are
+some good passages in it, and to-morrow I am going
+to set to music a little poem of Uhland's; a couple
+of pieces for the piano are also in progress. I can
+unfortunately form no judgment of my new compositions;
+I cannot tell whether they are good or bad;
+and this arises from the circumstance that all the
+people to whom I have played anything for the last
+twelve months, forthwith glibly declared it to be
+wonderfully beautiful, and that will never do. I
+really wish that some one would let me have a little
+rational blame once more, or what would be still
+more agreeable, a little <em>rational</em> praise, and then I
+should find it less indispensable to act the censor
+towards myself, and to be so distrustful of my own
+powers. Nevertheless, I must go on writing in the
+meantime.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_244"> 244</a></span>
+When I was at the Forest-ranger's, I heard that
+the whole country was devastated, and the most sad
+intelligence comes from all sides. All the bridges in
+the Hasli valley are entirely swept away, and also
+many houses and cottages. A man came here to-day
+from Lauterbrunnen, and he was up to his shoulders
+in water; the high road is ruined, and what sounded
+most dismal of all to me, a quantity of furniture and
+household things were seen floating down the Kander,
+coming no one knows whence. Happily the
+waters are beginning to subside, but the damage they
+have done cannot so easily be repaired. My travelling
+plans have also been considerably disturbed by
+these inundations, for, if there be any risk, I shall
+certainly not go into the mountains.</p>
+
+<h3>The 11th.</h3>
+
+<p>So I now close the first part of my journal, and
+send it off to you. To-morrow I shall begin a new
+one, for I intend then to go to Lauterbrunnen. The
+road is practicable for pedestrians, and not an idea
+of any danger; travellers from thence have come
+here to-day, but for carriages, the road will not be
+passable during the remainder of the year. I purpose,
+therefore, proceeding across the Lesser Scheideck
+to Grindelwald, and by the Great Scheideck
+to Meiringen; by Furka and Grimsel to Altorf, and
+so on to Lucerne; storms, rain, and everything else
+permitting,&mdash;which means, if God will. This morning
+early, I was on the Harder, and saw the mountains
+in the utmost splendour. I never remember
+the Jungfrau so clear and so glowing as both yesterday
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_245"> 245</a></span>
+evening and at early dawn to-day. I rode back
+to Interlaken, where I finished my sketch of the
+walnut-tree. After that I composed for a time, and
+wrote three waltzes for the Forest-ranger's daughter
+on the remaining music-paper she had given me,
+politely presenting them to her myself. I have just
+returned from a watery expedition to an inundated
+reading-room, as I wished to see how the Poles are
+getting on&mdash;unluckily there is no reference to them
+in the papers. I must now occupy myself till the
+evening in packing, but I am most reluctant to leave
+this room, where I am so comfortable, and shall
+sadly miss my little piano. I intend to sketch the
+view from this window with my pen on the back of
+my letter, and also to write out my second "Lied,"
+and then Untersee will soon also belong to my
+reminiscences. "Ach! wie schnell!" I quote
+myself, which is not over-modest, but these lines
+recur to me but too often when the days are shortening,
+the leaves of the travelling map turned over,
+and first Weimar, then Munich, and lastly Vienna,
+are all things of the past year. Well! here you
+have my window! [<em>Vide</em> page <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.]</p>
+
+<p><em>An hour later.</em>&mdash;My plans are altered, and I stay
+here till the day after to-morrow. The people say that
+by that time the roads will be considerably better, and
+there is plenty here both to see and to sketch. The
+Aar has not risen to such a height for seventy years.
+To-day people were stationed on the bridge, with
+poles and hooks, watching to catch any fragments
+of the broken-down bridges. It did look so strange
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_246"> 246</a></span>
+to see a black object come swimming along in the
+distance from the hills, which was at last recognized
+to be a piece of balustrade, or a cross-beam, or
+something of the sort, when all the people made a
+rush at it, and tried to fish it up with their hooks,
+and at length succeeded in dragging the monster
+out of the water. But enough of water,&mdash;that is,
+of my journal. It is now evening, and dark. I am
+writing by candle-light, and should he so glad if I
+could knock at your door, and take my seat beside
+you at the round table. It is the old story over
+again. Wherever it is bright and cheerful, and I
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_247"> 247</a></span>
+am well and happy, I most keenly feel your absence,
+and most long to be with you again. Who knows,
+however, whether we may not come here together in
+future years, and then think of this day, as we now
+do of former ones? But as none can tell whether
+this may ever come to pass, I shall meditate no
+longer on the subject, but write out my "Lied,"
+take another peep of the mountains, wish you all
+happiness and good fortune, and thus close my
+journal.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/264.jpg" width="500" height="477" alt="lauterbrunnen sketch"  />
+</div>
+
+<h3>Lauterbrunnen, August 13th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>I have just returned from an expedition on foot
+to the Schmadri Bach, and the Breithorn. All that
+you can by possibility conceive as to the grandeur
+and imposing forms of the mountains here, must fall
+far short of the reality of nature. That Goethe could
+write nothing in Switzerland but a few weak poems,
+and still weaker letters, is to me as incomprehensible
+as many other things in this world. The road
+here is again in a lamentable state; where, six days
+ago, there was the most beautiful highway, there is
+now only a desolate mass of rocks; numbers of
+huge blocks lying about, and heaps of rubbish and
+sand. No trace whatever of human hands to be
+seen. The waters, indeed, have entirely subsided,
+but they are still in a troubled state, for from time
+to time you can hear the stones tossed about, and
+the waterfalls also in the midst of their white foam,
+roll down black stones into the valley.</p>
+
+<p>My guide pointed out to me a pretty new house,
+standing in the midst of a wild turbulent stream;
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_248"> 248</a></span>
+he said that it belonged to his brother-in-law and
+formerly stood in a beautiful meadow, which had
+been very profitable; the man was obliged to leave
+the house during the night; the meadow has disappeared
+for ever, and masses of pebbles and stones
+have usurped its place. "He never was rich, but
+now he is poor," said he, in concluding his sad story.
+The strangest thing is, that in the very centre of
+this frightful devastation,&mdash;the Lütschine having
+overflowed the whole extent of the valley&mdash;among
+the marshy meadows, and masses of rocks, where
+there is no longer even a trace of a road, stands a
+<em>char-à-banc</em>&mdash;and is likely to stand for some time
+to come. It chanced that the people in it wished
+to drive through at the very time of the hurricane;
+then came the inundation, so they were forced to
+leave the carriage and everything else to fate, thus
+the <em>char-à-banc</em> is still standing waiting there. It
+was a very frightful sight when we reached the spot,
+where the whole valley, with its roads and embankments,
+is a perfect rocky sea; and my guide, who
+went first, kept whispering to himself, "'sisch
+furchtbar!" The torrent had carried into the middle
+of the stream some large trunks of trees, which
+are standing aloft; for at the same moment some
+huge fragments of rocks having been flung against
+them, the bare trees were closely wedged in betwixt
+them, and they now stand nearly perpendicular in
+the bed of the river.</p>
+
+<p>I should never come to an end were I to try to
+tell you all the various forms of havoc which I saw
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_249"> 249</a></span>
+between this place and Untersee. Still the beauty
+of the valley made a stronger impression on me
+than I can describe. It is much to be regretted,
+that when you were in this country, you went
+no further than Staubbach; for it is from there
+that the valley of Lauterbrunnen really begins.
+The Schwarzer Mönch, and all the other snowy
+mountains in the background, become more mighty
+and grand, and on every side bright foaming cascades
+tumble into the valley. You gradually approach
+the mountains covered with snow, and the
+glaciers in the background, through pine woods,
+and oaks, and maple-trees. The moist meadows,
+too, were covered with a profusion of brilliant
+flowers&mdash;snakewort, the wild scabious, campanulas,
+and many others. The Lütschine had accumulated
+masses of stones at the sides, having swept along
+fragments of rocks, as my guide said, "bigger than
+a stove," then the carved brown wooden houses, and
+the hedges; it is all beautiful beyond measure!
+Unfortunately we could not get to the Schmadri
+Bach, as bridges, paths, and fords, were all gone;
+but it was a walk I can never forget.</p>
+
+<p>I also tried to sketch the Mönch; but what can
+you hope to do with a small pencil? Hegel indeed
+says, "that every single human thought is more
+sublime than the whole of Nature;" but in this place
+I consider that too presumptuous; the axiom sounds
+indeed very fine, but is a confounded paradox nevertheless.
+I am quite contented, in the meantime, to
+adhere to Nature, which is the safest of the two.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_250"> 250</a></span>
+You know the situation of the inn here, and if you
+cannot recall it, refer to my former Swiss drawing
+book, where you will find it sketched, badly enough,
+and where I put in a footpath in front, from imagination,
+which made me laugh heartily to-day, when I
+thought of it. I am at this moment looking out of
+the same window, and gazing at the dark mountains,
+for it is late in the evening, that is, a quarter to
+eight o'clock, and I have an idea, which is "more
+sublime than the whole of Nature"&mdash;I mean to go
+to bed; so good night, dear ones.</p>
+
+<h3>The 14th, ten o'clock in the forenoon.</h3>
+
+<p>From the dairy hut on the Wengern Alp, in
+heavenly weather, I send you my greetings.</p>
+
+<h3>Grindelwald, evening.</h3>
+
+<p>I could not write more to you early this morning;
+I was most reluctant to leave the Jungfrau. What
+a day this has been for me! Ever since we were
+here together I have wished to see the Lesser
+Scheideck once more. So I woke early to-day, with
+some misgivings, for so much might intervene&mdash;bad
+weather, clouds, rain, fogs&mdash;but none of these
+occurred. It was a day as if made on purpose for
+me to cross the Wengern Alp. The sky was flecked
+with white clouds, floating far above the highest
+snowy peaks; no mists below on any of the mountains,
+and all their pinnacles glittering brightly in
+the morning air; every undulation, and the face of
+every hill, clear and distinct. Why should I even
+attempt to portray it? You have already seen the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_251"> 251</a></span>
+Wengern Alp, but at that time we had bad weather,
+whereas to-day the whole mountain range was in
+holiday attire. Nothing was wanting; from thundering
+avalanches, to its being Sunday, and people
+dressed in their best going to church, just as it was
+then.</p>
+
+<p>The hills had only dwelt in my memory as gigantic
+peaks, for their great altitude had entirely absorbed
+me. To-day I was struck with amazement at the
+immense extent of their base, their solid, spacious
+masses, and the connection of all these huge piles,
+which seem to lean towards each other, and to reach
+out their hands to one another. In addition to this
+you must imagine every glacier, and snowy plateau,
+and point of rock, dazzlingly lighted up and glittering.
+Then the far summits of distant mountain
+ranges stretching hither, as if surveying the others.
+I do believe that such are the thoughts of the
+Almighty. Those who do not yet know Him, may
+here see Him, and the nature He created, visibly
+displayed. Then the fresh, bracing air, which refreshes
+you when weary, and cools you when it is
+warm,&mdash;and so many springs! I must at some future
+time write you a separate treatise on springs, but
+I have not time for it to-day, as I have something
+particular to tell you.</p>
+
+<p>Now you will say, I suppose, he came down the
+mountain again, and is going to inform us once more
+how beautiful Switzerland is. Not at all. When I
+arrived at the herdsman's hut, I was told that in a
+meadow far up the Alps, there was to be a great fête
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_252"> 252</a></span>
+this very day, and I saw people at intervals climbing
+the mountain. I was not at all fatigued; an Alpine
+fête is not to be seen every day; the weather said,
+<em>yes</em>; the guide was willing. "Let us go to Intramen,"
+said I. The old herdsman went first, so we
+were obliged to climb very vigorously; for Intramen
+is more than a thousand feet higher than the
+Lesser Scheideck. The herdsman was a ruthless
+fellow, for he ran on before us like a cat; he soon
+took pity on my guide, and relieved him of my cloak
+and knapsack, but even with them he continued to
+push forward so eagerly that we really could not
+keep up with him. The path was frightfully steep;
+he extolled it, however, saying that there was a much
+nearer, but much steeper track: he was about sixty
+years of age, and when my youthful guide and I
+with difficulty surmounted a hill, we invariably saw
+him descending the next one. We walked on for
+two hours in the most fatiguing path I ever encountered;
+first a steep ascent, then down again into a
+hollow, over heaps of crumbling stones, and brooks
+and ditches, across two meadows covered with snow,
+in the most profound solitude, without a footpath,
+or the most remote trace of the hand of man; occasionally
+we could still hear the avalanches from the
+Jungfrau; otherwise all was still, and not a tree to
+be seen.</p>
+
+<p>When this silence and solitude had continued for
+some time, and we had clambered to the top of a
+grassy acclivity, we suddenly came in sight of a vast
+number of people standing in a circle, laughing,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_253"> 253</a></span>
+speaking, and shouting. They were all in gay
+dresses, and had flowers in their hats; there were
+a great many girls, some tables with casks of wine,
+and all around deep solemn silence, and tremendous
+mountains. It was singular that while I was in the
+act of climbing, I thought of nothing but rocks and
+stones, and the snow and the track; but the moment
+I saw human beings, all the rest was forgotten, and
+I only thought of men, and their sports, and the
+merry fête. It was really a fine sight. The scene
+was in a spacious green meadow far above the
+clouds; opposite were the snowy mountains in all
+their prodigious altitude, more especially the dome
+of the great Eiger, the Schreckhorn, and the Wetterhörner,
+and all the others as far as the Blümli's Alp;
+the Lauterbrunnen valley lay far beneath us in the
+misty depths, quite small, as well as our road of
+yesterday, with all the little cataracts like threads,
+the houses like dots, and the trees like grass. Far
+in the background the Lake of Thun occasionally
+glanced out of the mist.</p>
+
+<p>The crowd now began wrestling, and singing, and
+drinking, and laughing; all healthy, strong men. I
+was much amused by the wrestling, which I had
+never before seen. The girls served the men with
+<em>Kirschwasser</em> and <em>Schnapps</em>; the flasks passed from
+hand to hand, and I drank with them, and gave three
+little children some cakes, which made them quite
+happy; a very tipsy old peasant sang me some
+songs; then they all sang; then the guide favoured
+us with a modern song; and then little boys fought.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_254"> 254</a></span>
+<em>Everything</em> pleased me on the Alps, and I remained
+lying there till towards evening, and made myself
+quite at home. We descended rapidly into the meadows
+below, and soon descried the familiar inn, and
+its windows glittering in the evening sun; a fresh
+breeze from the glaciers began to blow; this soon
+cooled us. It is now getting late, and from time to
+time avalanches are heard,&mdash;so thus has my Sunday
+been spent.&mdash;A fête-day indeed!</p>
+
+<h3>On the Faulhorn, August 15th.</h3>
+
+<p>I am shivering with cold! Outside thick snow is
+falling, and the wind raging and blustering. We
+are eight thousand feet above the level of the sea,
+and a long tract of snow to traverse, but here I am!
+Nothing can be seen; all day the weather has been
+dreadful. When I remember how fine it was yesterday,
+while I earnestly wish that it may be as fine to-morrow,
+it reminds me of life, for we are always
+hovering between the past and the future. Our
+excursion of yesterday seems as far past and remote,
+as if I knew it only from old memories, and had
+scarcely been present myself; for to-day when during
+five mortal hours we were struggling on, against
+rain and fog, sticking in the mud, and seeing nothing
+round us but grey vapours, I could scarcely realize
+that it ever was or ever will be again fine weather,
+or that I ever lay idly stretched on this wet marshy
+grass. Besides, everything here wears such a wintry
+aspect; heated stoves, thick snow, cloaks, freezing,
+shivering people. I am at this moment in the highest
+inn in Europe; and just as in St. Peter's, you
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_255"> 255</a></span>
+look down on every church, and on the Simplon,
+upon every road, so from hence I look down on all
+other inns; but not <em>morally</em>, for this is little more
+than a few wooden planks. Never mind. I am
+now going to bed, and I will no longer watch my
+own breath. Good night! "Tom's a cold."</p>
+
+<h3>Hospital, August 18th.</h3>
+
+<p>I have not been able to open my journal for two
+or three days, as when night came I had no longer
+time for anything, but to dry myself and my clothes
+at the fire, to warm myself, to sigh over the weather,
+like the stove behind which I took refuge, and to
+sleep a good deal; besides, I did not wish to try your
+patience, by my everlasting repetitions of how deep
+I had sunk in the mud, and how incessantly it rained,
+and so forth. During the last few days in reality I
+went through the most beautiful country, and yet
+saw nothing but thick fogs, and water in the sky,
+and from the sky, and on the earth. I passed places
+that I had long wished to visit, without being able
+to enjoy them; what also damped my writing mood,
+was being obliged to battle with the weather, and if
+it continues the same, I shall only write occasionally,
+for really I should have nothing to say, but "a grey
+sky&mdash;rain and fog." I have been on the Faulhorn,
+the Great Scheideck, on Grimsel Spital, and to-day
+I crossed Grimsel and Furka, and the principal objects
+I have seen were the points of my shabby umbrella,
+and I had not even a glimpse of the huge
+mountains. At one moment, to-day, the Finsteraarhorn
+came to light, but it looked as savage as if it
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_256"> 256</a></span>
+wished to devour us; and yet if we were a single
+half-hour without rain, it was truly beautiful. A
+journey on foot through this country, even in the
+most unfavourable weather, is the most enchanting
+thing you can possibly imagine; if the sky were
+bright, I think the excess of pleasure would be quite
+overpowering; I must not therefore complain too
+much of the weather, for I have had my full share
+of enjoyment.</p>
+
+<p>During the last few days I felt like Tantalus.
+When I was on the Scheideck, a glimpse of the
+lower part of the Wetterhorn was sometimes visible
+through the clouds, and it seemed beyond measure
+magnificent and sublime; but I only saw the base.
+On the Faulhorn, I could not distinguish objects
+fifty paces off, although I stayed there till ten
+o'clock in the morning. We went down to the
+Scheideck in a heavy snow-storm, by a very wet and
+difficult path, which the incessant rain had made
+worse than usual. We arrived at Grimsel Spital in
+rain and storm. To-day I wished to have ascended
+the Sidelhorn, but was obliged to give it up on account
+of the fog. The Mayenwand was shrouded in
+grey clouds, and we had only a single peep of the
+Finsteraarhorn, when we were on the Furka. We
+also arrived here in a torrent of rain and water
+everywhere, but all this does not signify. My guide
+is a capital fellow: if it rains, he sings and <em>jodels</em>;
+if it is fine, so much the better; and though I failed
+in seeing some of the finest objects, still I saw a
+great deal that was interesting.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_257"> 257</a></span>
+On this occasion I have formed a particular
+friendship for the glaciers; they are indeed, the
+most marvellous monsters in the world. How
+strangely they are all tumbled about; here, a row
+of jagged points, there, toppling crags, and above,
+towers and bastions, while on every side, crevices
+and ravines are visible, all of the most wondrous
+pure ice, that rejects all soil of earth, casting up
+again on the surface the stones, sand, and gravel,
+flung down by the mountains. Then the superb
+colouring, when the sun shines on them, and their
+mysterious advance&mdash;they sometimes move on a foot
+and a half in a single day, so that the people in the
+village are in the greatest anxiety and alarm, when
+the glacier arrives so quietly, and yet with such
+irresistible force, for it shivers rocks and stones
+when they lie in the way&mdash;then the ominous crashing
+and thundering, and the rushing of so many springs
+near and round. They are splendid miracles. I
+was in the Rosenlaui glacier, which forms a kind of
+cave, that you can creep through; it looks as if
+built of emeralds, only more transparent. Above,
+around, on all sides, you can see rivulets running
+between the clear ice. In the centre of this narrow
+passage, the ice has left a large round window,
+through which you look down on the valley, and
+issue forth again under an arch of ice, and high
+above, black peaks rear their heads, from which
+masses of ice roll down in the boldest undulations.
+The glacier of the Rhone is the most imposing that
+I have seen, and the sun burst forth on it as we
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_258"> 258</a></span>
+passed early this morning. This is a suggestive
+sight, and you get a casual glimpse of the rocky
+peak of a mountain, a plateau covered with snow,
+cataracts, and bridges spanning them, and masses of
+crumbling stones and rocks; in short, even if you
+see little in Switzerland, it is at all events more
+than is to be seen in any other country.</p>
+
+<p>I have been drawing very busily, and think I have
+made some progress. I even tried to sketch the
+Jungfrau; it will at least serve as a reminiscence,
+and I can enjoy the thought that these strokes were
+actually made on the spot itself. I see people rushing
+through Switzerland, and declaring that they
+find nothing to admire there, or anywhere else
+(except themselves); not the least affected nor
+roused, remaining cold and prosaic, even in presence
+of the mountains; when I meet such people
+I should like to give them a good drubbing.
+Two Englishmen and an English lady are at this
+moment sitting beside me near the stove; they are
+as wooden as sticks. We have been travelling the
+same road for a couple of days, and I declare the
+people have never uttered a syllable except of abuse,
+that there were no fireplaces either on the Grimsel,
+or here; but that there are <em>mountains</em> here, is a fact
+to which they never allude; their whole journey is
+occupied in scolding their guide, who laughs at
+them, in quarrelling with the innkeepers, and in
+yawning in each others' faces. They think everything
+commonplace, because they are themselves
+commonplace, therefore they are not happier in
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_259"> 259</a></span>
+Switzerland than they would be in Bernau. I maintain
+that happiness is relative; another would thank
+God that he could see all this, and so I will be that
+other!</p>
+
+<h3>Fluelen, August 19th.</h3>
+
+<p>A day made for a journey; fine, and enjoyable,
+and bracing. When we wished to start this morning
+at six o'clock, there was such a storm of sleet and
+snow that we were obliged to wait till nine o'clock,
+when the sun came forth, the clouds dispersed, and
+we had delightful bright weather as far as this place;
+but now sombre clouds, heavy with rain, have collected
+over the lake, so that no doubt to-morrow the
+old troubles will break loose again. But how glorious
+this day has been, so clear and sunny&mdash;we had the
+most charming journey! You know the St. Gothard
+Road in all its beauty; you lose much by coming
+down from above, instead of ascending from this
+point, for the grand surprise of the Urner Loch is
+entirely lost, and the new road which has been made,
+with all the grandeur, as well as convenience, of the
+Simplon, impairs the effect of the Devil's Bridge:
+inasmuch as close beside it a new arch, much bolder
+and larger, has been constructed, which makes the
+old bridge look quite insignificant, but the ancient
+crumbling walls look much more romantic and picturesque.
+Though the view of Andermatt is thus lost,
+and the new Devil's Bridge far from being poetical,
+still you go merrily downhill all day, on a delightfully
+smooth road, flying rapidly past the various
+localities, and instead of being sprinkled by the foam
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_260"> 260</a></span>
+of the waterfall on the old bridge as formerly, and
+endangered by the wind, you now pass along far
+above the stream, between two ranges of solid
+parapets.</p>
+
+<p>We came past Göschenen and Wasen and presently
+appeared the huge firs and beech-trees close to Amsteg;
+then the charming valley of Altorf, with its
+cottages, meadows, and woods, its rocks and snowy
+mountains. We rested at Altorf in a Capuchin
+Convent, situated on a height; and finally, here I
+am on the banks of the Vierwaldstadt Lake. To-morrow
+I purpose crossing the lake to Lucerne,
+where I hope to find letters from you. I shall then
+also get rid of a party of young people from Berlin,
+who have been pursuing almost the same route with
+me, meeting me at every turn, and boring me terribly;
+the patriotism of a lieutenant, a dyer, and a
+young carpenter,&mdash;all three bent on destroying
+France,&mdash;was peculiarly distasteful to me.</p>
+
+<h3>Sarnen, the 20th.</h3>
+
+<p>I crossed the Vierwaldstadt Lake early this morning,
+in a continued pour of rain, and found your
+welcome letter of the 5th in Lucerne. As it contained
+nothing but good tidings, I immediately
+arranged a tour of three days to Unterwalden and
+the Brünig. I intend to call again at Lucerne for
+your next letter, and then I am off to the West, and
+out of Switzerland. I shall take leave of it with
+deep regret. The country is beautiful beyond all
+conception; and though the weather is again odious,&mdash;rain
+and storms the whole day, and all through
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_261"> 261</a></span>
+the night,&mdash;yet the Tellen Platte, the Grütli, Brunnen
+and Schwytz, and the dazzling green of the
+meadows this evening in Unterwalden, are too lovely
+ever to be forgotten. The hue of this green is most
+unique, refreshing the eye and the whole being. I
+shall certainly attend to your kind precautionary
+injunctions, dear Mother, but you need be under
+no apprehensions about me. I am by no means
+careless with regard to my health, and have not, for
+a long time, felt so well as during my pedestrian
+excursions in Switzerland. If eating, and drinking,
+and sleeping, and music in one's head, can make a
+man healthy, then, God be praised, I may well call
+myself so; for my guide and I vie with each other
+in eating and drinking, and not less so unluckily in
+singing. In sleeping alone I surpass him; and
+though I sometimes disturb him by my trumpet or
+oboe tones, he in turn cuts short my morning sleep.
+Please God, therefore, we shall have a happy meeting.
+Before that time arrives, however, many a page
+of my journal must yet travel to you; but even this
+interval will quickly pass, just as everything quickly
+passes, except indeed what is best of all!&mdash;so let us
+be true and loving to each other.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Engelberg, August 23rd, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>My heart is so full that I must tell you about it.
+In this enchanting valley I have just taken up
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_262"> 262</a></span>
+Schiller's "Wilhelm Tell," and read half of the first
+scene; there is surely no genius like that of Germany!
+Heaven knows why it is so, but I do think
+that no other nation could fully comprehend such an
+opening scene, far less be able to compose it. This
+is what I call a poem, and a beginning; first the
+pure, clear verse, in which the lake, smooth as a
+mirror, and all else, is so vividly described, and then
+the slow commonplace Swiss talk, and Baumgarten
+coming in,&mdash;it is quite glorious! How fresh, how
+powerful, how exciting! We have no such work as
+this in music, and yet even that sphere ought one
+day to produce something equally perfect. It is so
+admirable in him too, to have created an entire
+Switzerland for himself, inasmuch as he never saw
+it, and yet all is so faithful and so strikingly truthful;
+the people and life, the scenery and nature. I
+was delighted when the old innkeeper here, in a
+solitary mountain village, brought me from the
+monastery the book with the well-known characters
+and old familiar names; but the opening again quite
+surpassed all my expectations. It is now more
+than four years since I read it. I mean presently to
+go over to the monastery, to work off my excitement
+on the organ.</p>
+
+<h3>Afternoon.</h3>
+
+<p>Do not be astonished at my enthusiasm, but read
+the scene through again yourself, and then you will
+find my excitement quite natural. Such passages
+as those where all the shepherds and hunters shout
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_263"> 263</a></span>
+"Save him! save him!" in the close at the Grütli,
+when the sun is about to rise, could indeed only
+have occurred to a German, and above all to
+Schiller; and the whole piece is crowded with
+similar passages. Let me refer to that particular
+one at the end of the second scene, where Tell comes
+with the rescued Baumgarten to Stauffacher, and
+the agitating conference closes in such tranquillity
+and peace: this, along with the beauty of the
+thought, is so thoroughly Swiss. Then the beginning
+of the Grütli&mdash;the symphony which the orchestra
+ought to play at the end I composed in my
+mind to-day, because I could do nothing satisfactory
+on the little organ: altogether a variety of plans
+and ideas occurred to me. There is a vast deal to
+do in this world, and I mean to be industrious. The
+expression that Goethe made use of to me, that
+Schiller could have <em>supplied</em> two great tragedies
+every year, with its business-like tone, always inspired
+me with particular respect: but not till this
+morning did the full force of its signification become
+clear to me, and it has made me feel that I must set
+to work in earnest. Even the mistakes are captivating,
+and there is something grand in them; and
+though certainly Bertha, Rudenz, and old Attinghausen,
+seem to me great blemishes, still Schiller's
+idea is evident, and he was in a manner forced to do
+as he has done; and it is consolatory to find that
+even so great a man could for once commit such an
+egregious mistake.</p>
+
+<p>I have passed a most enjoyable morning, and I
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_264"> 264</a></span>
+feel in the kind of mood which makes you long to
+recall such a man to life, in order to thank him, and
+inspiring an earnest desire, one day, to compose a
+work which shall impress others with similar feelings.</p>
+
+<p>Probably you do not understand what induced me
+to take up my quarters here in Engelberg. It happened
+thus:&mdash;I have not had a single day's rest
+since I left Untersee, and therefore wished to remain
+for a day at Meiringen, but was tempted by the
+lovely weather in the morning, to come on here.
+The usual rain and wind assailed me on the mountains,
+and so I arrived very tired. This is the
+nicest inn imaginable,&mdash;clean, tidy, very small and
+rustic,&mdash;an old white-haired innkeeper; a wooden
+house, situated in a meadow, a little apart from the
+road; and the people so kind and cordial, that I feel
+quite at home. I think this kind of domestic comfort
+is only to be found among those who speak the
+German tongue; at all events, I never met with it
+anywhere else; and though other nations may not
+feel the want of it, or scarcely care about it, still <em>I</em>
+am a native of Hamburg, and so it makes me feel
+happy and at home. It is not therefore strange that
+I decided on taking my day's rest here with these
+worthy old people. My room has windows on every
+side, commanding a view of the valley: the room is
+prettily panelled with wood; some coloured texts
+and a crucifix are hanging on the walls; there is a
+solid green stove, and a bench encircling it, and two
+lofty bedsteads. When I am lying in bed I have
+the following view:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_265"> 265</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/283.jpg" width="500" height="491" alt="Engelberg sketch" />
+</div>
+
+<p>I have failed again in my buildings, and in the
+hills too, but I hope to make a better sketch of it
+for you in my book, if the weather is tolerable to-morrow.
+I shall always consider this valley to be
+one of the loveliest in all Switzerland. I have not
+yet seen the gigantic mountains by which it is encompassed,
+as they have been all day shrouded in
+mist; but the beautiful meadows, the numerous
+brooks, the houses, and the foot of the hills, so far
+as I could see them, are exquisitely lovely. The
+green of the Unterwalden is more brilliant than in
+any other canton, and it is celebrated for its meadows
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_266"> 266</a></span>
+even among the Swiss. The previous journey too
+from Sarnen was enchanting, and never did I see
+larger or finer trees, or a more fruitful country.
+Moreover the road is attended with as few difficulties
+as if you were traversing a large garden; the
+declivities are clothed with tall slender beeches; the
+stones overgrown by moss and herbs; then there
+are springs, brooks, small lakes, and houses: on one
+side is a view of the Unterwalden and its green
+plains; and shortly after a view of the whole vale
+of Hasli, the snowy mountains, and cataracts leaping
+down from rocky precipices; the road too is shaded
+the whole way by enormous trees.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday, early, as I told you, I was tempted by
+the bright sun to cross the Genthel valley to ascend
+the Joch, but on the summit the most dreadful
+weather set in; we were obliged to make our way
+through the snow, and this was sometimes anything
+but pleasant. We speedily, however, emerged out
+of the sleet and snow, and an enchanting moment
+ensued, when the clouds broke, while we were still
+standing in them; and far beneath us, we saw
+through the mists as through a black veil, the
+green valley of Engelberg. We soon made our way
+down, and heard the silvery bell of the monastery
+ring out the Ave Maria. We next saw the white
+building on the meadow, and arrived here after an
+expedition of nine hours. I need not say how
+acceptable at such a time is a comfortable inn, and
+how good the rice and milk seems, and how long you
+sleep next morning.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_267"> 267</a></span>
+To-day we have had very disagreeable weather, so
+they brought me "Wilhelm Tell" from the library
+of the monastery, and the rest you know. I was
+much struck by Schiller having so completely failed
+in portraying Rudenz, for the whole character is
+feeble, and without sufficient motive, and it seems
+as if he had resolved purposely to represent him
+throughout, in the worst possible light. His words,
+in the scene with the apple, might tend to redeem
+him, but being preceded by that with Bertha, they
+make no impression. When he joins the Swiss, after
+the death of Attinghausen, it might be supposed
+that he is changed, but he instantly proclaims that
+his Bertha is carried off, so again he has as little
+merit as ever. It occurred to me that if he had
+uttered the very same manly words against Gessler,
+without the explanation with Bertha having previously
+taken place, and if such a result had arisen
+out of this in the following act, the character would
+have been much better, and the explanatory scene
+not so merely theatrical as it now is. This is certainly
+very like the egg and the hen, but I should
+like to hear your opinion on the subject. I dare not
+speak to one of our learned men on such matters;
+these gentlemen are a vast deal too wise! If however
+I chance some of these days to meet one of
+those youthful modern poets, who look down on
+Schiller, and only partly approve of him; so much
+the worse for him, for I must infallibly crush him to
+death.</p>
+
+<p>Now, good night; I must rise very early to-morrow;
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_268"> 268</a></span>
+it is to be a grand fête to-day in the monastery,
+and a solemn religious service, and I am to play the
+organ for them. The monks were listening this
+morning while I was extemporizing a little, and
+were so pleased, that they invited me to play the
+people in and out at their festival to-morrow. The
+father organist has also given me the subject on
+which I am to extemporize; it is better than any
+that would have occurred to an organist in Italy.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/286.jpg" width="250" height="51" alt="music286a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/286a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>I shall see to-morrow what I can make of this. I
+played a couple of new pieces of mine on the organ
+this afternoon in the church, and they sounded
+rather well. When I came past the monastery the
+same evening, the church was closed, and scarcely
+were the doors shut, when the monks began to sing
+nocturns fervently, in the dark church; they intoned
+the deep B, which vibrated splendidly, and could be
+heard far down the valley.</p>
+
+<h3>August 24th.</h3>
+
+<p>This has been another splendid day&mdash;the weather
+bright and enjoyable, and the bluest sky that I have
+seen since I left Chamouni; it was a holiday in the
+village, and in all the mountains. After long-continued
+fogs, and every variety of bad weather, once
+more to see from the window in the morning the
+clear range of mountains and their pinnacles, is indeed
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_269"> 269</a></span>
+a grand spectacle. They are acknowledged to
+be finest after rain, and to-day they looked as fresh
+as if newly created. This valley is not surpassed
+by any in Switzerland. If I ever return here this
+shall be my head-quarters, for it is even more lovely,
+and more spacious and unconfined than Chamouni,
+and more free than Interlaken. The Spann-örter
+are incredibly grand peaks, and the round Titlis
+heavily laden with snow, the foot of which lies in the
+meadows, and the effect of the Urner rocks in the
+distance, are also well worth seeing: it is now full
+moon, and the valley is clothed in beauty.</p>
+
+<p>This whole day I have done nothing but sketch,
+and play the organ: in the morning I performed my
+duties as organist&mdash;it was a grand affair. The organ
+stands close to the high altar, next to the stalls for
+the "patres;"&mdash;so I took my place in the midst of
+the monks, a very Saul among the prophets. An
+impatient Benedictine at my side played the double
+bass, and others the violins; one of their dignitaries
+was first violin. The <em>pater præceptor</em> stood in front
+of me, sang a solo, and conducted with a long stick,
+as thick as my arm. The <em>élèves</em> in the monastery
+formed the choir, in their black cowls; an old decayed
+rustic played on an old decayed oboe, and at
+a little distance two more were puffing away composedly
+at two huge trumpets with green tassels;
+and yet with all this the affair was gratifying. It
+was impossible not to like the people, for they had
+plenty of zeal, and all worked away as well as they
+could. A mass, by Emmerich, was given, and every
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_270"> 270</a></span>
+note of it betrayed its "powder and pigtail." I
+played thorough-bass faithfully from my ciphered
+part, adding wind instruments from time to time,
+when I was weary; made the responses, extemporized
+on the appointed theme, and at the end, by
+desire of the Prelate, played a march, in spite of my
+repugnance to do this on the organ, and was then
+honourably dismissed.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon I played again alone to the monks,
+who gave me the finest subjects in the world&mdash;the
+"Credo" among others&mdash;a <em>fantasia</em> on the latter was
+very successful; it is the only one that in my life I
+ever wished I could have written down, but now I
+can only remember its general purport, and must
+ask permission to send Fanny, in this letter, a passage
+that I do not wish to forget. By degrees various
+counter subjects were introduced in opposition to
+the <em>canto fermo</em>; first dotted notes, then triplets,
+at last rapid semiquavers, through which the "Credo"
+was to work its way; quite at the close, the semiquavers
+became very wild, and arpeggios followed on
+the whole organ in G minor. I proceeded to take up
+the theme on the pedal in long notes (during the
+continued arpeggios), so that it ended with A. On
+the A, I made a pedal point in arpeggios, and then
+it suddenly occurred to me to play the arpeggios
+with the left hand alone, so that the right hand
+could introduce the "Credo" again in the treble
+with A, thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_271"> 271</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/289.jpg" width="300" height="260" alt="music289a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/289a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>etc.</p>
+
+<p>This was followed by a stop on the last note, and
+a pause, and then it concluded. I wish you had
+heard it, for I am sure you would have been pleased.
+It was time for the monks to go to <em>complines</em>, and
+we took leave of each other cordially. They wished
+to give me letters of introduction for some other
+places in Unterwalden, but I declined this, as I intend
+to go to Lucerne early to-morrow, and after
+that I expect not to be more than five or six days
+longer in Switzerland.&mdash;Your</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_272"> 272</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center smcap">To Wilhelm Taubert.</p>
+
+<h3>Lucerne, August 27th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>I wish to offer you my thanks, but I really do not
+know where to begin first; whether for the pleasure
+your songs caused me in Milan, or for your kind
+letter which I received yesterday; both however are
+closely connected, and so I think we have already
+made acquaintance. It is quite as fitting that we
+should be presented to each other through the
+medium of music-paper, as by a third person in
+society; indeed I think that in the former case you
+feel even more intimate and confidential. Moreover,
+persons who introduce any one often pronounce the
+name so indistinctly, that you seldom know who is
+standing before you; and they never say one word
+as to whether the man is gay and good-humoured,
+or melancholy and gloomy. So we are infinitely
+better off. Your songs have pronounced your name
+clearly and plainly; they also disclose what you
+think and what you are; that you love music, and
+wish to make progress; so thus perhaps I know you
+better than if we had frequently met.</p>
+
+<p>What a source of pleasure it is, and how cheering,
+to know there is another musician in the world who
+has the same purposes and aspirations, and who follows
+the same path as yourself; perhaps you cannot
+feel this so strongly as I do at this moment, who
+have just come from a country where music no longer
+exists among the people. I never before could have
+believed this of any nation, and least of all of Italy,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_273"> 273</a></span>
+with such rich and luxuriant nature, and such
+glorious, inspiriting antecedents. But alas! the
+occurrences I latterly witnessed there, fully proved
+to me that even more than harmony is dead in that
+land; it would indeed be marvellous if any music
+could exist where there is no solid principle. At
+last I was really bewildered, and thought that I
+must have become a hypochondriac, for all the buffoonery
+I saw was most distasteful to me, and yet a
+vast number of serious people and sedate citizens
+entered into it. When they played me anything of
+their own, and afterwards praised and extolled my
+pieces, I cannot tell you how repugnant it was to
+me; I felt disposed to become a hermit, with beard
+and cowl, and the whole world was at a discount with
+me. In Italy you first learn to value a true musician;
+that is, one whose thoughts are absorbed in
+<em>music</em>, and not in money, or decorations, or ladies,
+or fame; it is doubly delightful when you find that,
+without your being aware of it, your own ideas exist
+and are developed elsewhere; your songs therefore
+gave me especial pleasure, because I could gather
+from them that you must be a genuine musician, and
+so let us mutually stretch out our hands across the
+mountains.</p>
+
+<p>I beg that you will also look on me in the light
+of a friend, and not write so formally as to my
+"counsel" and "teaching." This portion of your
+letter makes me feel almost nervous, and I scarcely
+know what to say; the most agreeable part however
+is your promise to send me something to Munich,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_274"> 274</a></span>
+and to write to me again. I will then tell you
+frankly and freely my honest opinion, and you shall
+do the same with regard to my new compositions,
+and thus I think we shall give each other good
+counsel. I am very eager to see those recent works
+of yours that you have promised me, for I do not
+doubt that I shall receive much gratification from
+them, and many things which are only foreshadowed
+in the former songs, will probably in these become
+manifest and distinct. I shall therefore say nothing
+to-day of the impression your songs have made on
+me, because possibly any suggestion or question
+may be already answered in what you are about to
+send me. I earnestly entreat of you to write to me
+fully, and in detail, about yourself, in order that we
+may become better acquainted. I can then write to
+you what I purpose and what I think, and thus we
+shall continue in close connection.</p>
+
+<p>Let me know what you have recently composed
+and are now composing; your mode of life in Berlin,
+and your plans for the future; in short all that concerns
+your musical life, which will be of the greatest
+interest to me. Probably this will be obvious in
+the music you have so kindly promised me, but fortunately
+both may be combined. Have you hitherto
+composed nothing on a greater scale; some wild
+symphony, or opera, or something of the kind? I,
+for my part, feel at this moment the most invincible
+desire to write an opera, and yet I have scarcely
+leisure even to commence any work, however small.
+I do believe that if the libretto were to be given to
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_275"> 275</a></span>
+me to-day, the opera would be written by to-morrow,
+so strong is my impulse towards it. Formerly the
+bare idea of a symphony was so exciting, that I
+could think of nothing else when one was in my
+head; the sound of instruments has such a solemn
+and glorious effect; and yet for some time past I
+have laid aside a symphony that I had commenced,
+in order to compose on a cantata of Goethe's merely
+because it included, besides the orchestra, voices
+and a chorus. I intend now, indeed, to complete
+the symphony, but there is nothing I so strongly
+covet as a regular opera.</p>
+
+<p>Where the libretto is to come from I know less
+than ever since last night, when for the first time
+for more than a year I saw a German æsthetic
+paper. The German Parnassus seems in as disorganized
+a condition as European politics. God help
+us! I was obliged to digest the supercilious Menzel,
+who presumed modestly to depreciate Goethe,&mdash;and
+the supercilious Grabbe, who modestly depreciates
+Shakspeare,&mdash;and the philosophers who proclaim
+Schiller to be rather trivial! Is this new, arrogant,
+overbearing spirit, this perverse cynicism, as odious
+to you as it is to me? and are you of the same
+opinion with myself, that the first and most indispensable
+quality of any artist is to feel respect for
+great men, and to bow down in spirit before them;
+to recognize their merits, and not to endeavour to
+extinguish their great flame, in order that his own
+feeble rushlight may burn a little brighter? If a
+person be incapable of feeling true greatness, I
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_276"> 276</a></span>
+should like to know how he intends to make <em>me</em> feel
+it? And as all these people, with their airs of
+contempt, only at last succeed in producing imitations
+of this or that particular form, without any presentiment
+of free, fresh, creative power, unfettered
+by individual opinion, or æsthetics or criticism, or
+the whole world besides; as this is the case, do they
+not deserve to be abused? and I do abuse them.
+Pray do not take this amiss; perhaps I have gone
+too far. But, it was long since I had read anything
+of the kind, and it vexes me to see that such folly
+still goes on, and that the philosopher who maintains
+that art is dead, still persists in declaring that it is
+so; as if art could in reality ever die.</p>
+
+<p>These are truly strange, wild, and troubled times;
+and let those who feel that art is no more, allow it
+for Heaven's sake to rest in peace; but however
+roughly the storm may rage without, it cannot so
+quickly succeed in sweeping away the dwelling; and
+he who works on quietly within, fixing his thoughts
+on his own capabilities and purposes, and not on
+those of others, will see the hurricane blow over,
+and afterwards find it difficult to realize that it
+ever was so violent as it appeared at the time. I
+have resolved to act thus so long as I can, and to
+pursue my path steadily, for at all events no one
+will deny that music still exists, and that is the chief
+thing.</p>
+
+<p>How cheering it is to meet with a person who has
+chosen the same object and the same means as
+yourself! and I would fain tell you how gratifying
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_277"> 277</a></span>
+each new corroboration of this is to me, but I
+scarcely know how to do so. You must imagine it
+for yourself, and your own thoughts must supply any
+deficiencies; so farewell! Pray let me hear from
+you soon, and frequently. I beg to send my kindest
+wishes to our dear friend Berger;<a name="FNanchor_22" id="FNanchor_22" href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> I have been
+long intending to write to him, but have never yet
+accomplished it. I shall certainly however do so
+one of these days. Forgive this long, dry letter,
+next time it shall be more interesting, and now once
+more farewell.&mdash;Yours,</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Righi Culm, August 30th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>I am on the Righi! I need say no more, for you
+know this mountain. What can be more grand or
+superb? I left Lucerne early this morning. All
+the mountains were obscured, and the weather-wise
+prophesied bad weather. As however I have always
+found that the very opposite of what the wise people
+say invariably occurs! I tried to make out signs for
+myself, though hitherto, in spite of their aid, I have
+found my predictions quite as false as those of the
+others; but this morning I really thought the weather
+very tolerable; still, as I did not wish to begin my
+ascent while all was still shrouded in vapour (for
+the Faulhorn had taught me caution), I spent the</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_278"> 278</a></span>
+whole morning in sauntering round the foot of the
+Righi, gazing eagerly upwards, to see if the mists
+were likely to clear off. At last, about twelve
+o'clock, at Küssnacht, I stood on the cross path
+leading towards the Righi to the right, and Immensee
+to the left; and making up my mind not to see
+the Righi on this occasion, I took a tender farewell
+of it, and went through the Hohle Gasse to the
+Lake of Zug, along a charming path, past the water,
+to Arth; but could not resist frequently glancing at
+the summit of the Righi Culm, to see if it was becoming
+clearer; and while I was dining at Arth it
+did clear up. The wind was very favourable, the
+clouds lifted on every side; so I made up my mind
+to begin the ascent.</p>
+
+<p>There was no time to lose, however, if I wished to
+witness the sunset; so I went along at a steady
+mountain pace, and in the course of two hours and
+three-quarters I reached the Culm, and the well-known
+house. I then became aware that there were
+about forty men standing on the top, uplifting their
+hands in admiration, and making signs in a state of
+the greatest excitement. I ran up, and a new and
+wondrous sight it was. All the valleys were filled
+with fogs and clouds, and above them the lofty, snowy
+crests of the mountains and the glaciers and black
+rocks stood out bright and clear. The mists swept
+onwards, veiling a portion of the scenery; then came
+forth the Bernese Alps, the Jungfrau, the Mönch,
+and the Finsteraarhorn; then Titlis, and the Unterwalden
+mountains. At last the whole range was
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_279"> 279</a></span>
+distinctly visible; the clouds in the valleys now also
+began to roll away, disclosing the lakes of Lucerne
+and Zug, and towards the hour of sunset, only thin
+streaks of bright vapour still floated on the landscape.
+Coming from the Alp, and then looking
+towards the Righi, it was as if the overture and
+other portions were repeated at the end of an opera.
+All the spots whence you have seen such sublime
+scenery, the Wengern Alp, the Wetter Hörner,
+the valley of Engelberg, here meet the eye once
+more in close vicinity, and you can take leave of
+them all. I had imagined that it was only at first,
+when still ignorant of the glaciers, that so great
+an impression was made, from the influence of surprise,
+but I think the effect at the last is even more
+striking than ever.</p>
+
+<h3>Schwytz, August 31st.</h3>
+
+<p>Yesterday and to-day I gratefully recalled the
+happy auspices under which I first made acquaintance
+with this part of the world. The remembrance
+of your profound admiration of these wonders, elevating
+you above every-day life, has contributed not
+a little to awaken and to quicken my own perception
+of them. I often to-day recurred to your delight, and
+the deep impression it made on me at the time. So
+the Righi is evidently disposed to be gracious to our
+family, and in consequence of this kindly feeling
+towards us, conferred on me to-day a sunrise quite
+as brilliant and splendid as when you were here.
+The waning moon, the lively Alpine horn, the long-protracted
+rosy dawn which first stole over the cold.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_280"> 280</a></span>
+shadowy, snowy mountains, the white clouds on the
+Lake of Zug, the clear, sharp peaks bending towards
+each other in all directions, the light which gradually
+crept on the heights, the restless, shivering people,
+wrapped in coverlets, the monks from Maria zum
+Schnee, nothing was wanting.</p>
+
+<p>I could not tear myself away from this spectacle,
+and remained on the summit for six consecutive
+hours, gazing at the mountains. I thought that
+when next I saw them there might be many changes,
+so I wished to imprint the sight indelibly on my
+memory. People came and went, and talked of
+these anxious, troubled times, of politics, and of the
+grand mountain range before us.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the morning passed away, and at last, at
+half-past ten o'clock, I was obliged to go; indeed it
+was high time, as I wished to get to Einsiedel the
+same day, by Hacken. On my way, however, in the
+steep path leading to Lowerz, my trusty old umbrella,
+which also served me as a mountain staff, broke to
+pieces; this detained me, so that I preferred remaining
+here, and to-morrow I hope to be quite fresh for
+a start.</p>
+
+<h3>Wallenstadt, September 2nd.</h3>
+
+<p>(Year of rains and storms.) Motto of the copper-smith&mdash;"If
+you can't sing a new song, then begin
+the old one afresh." Here am I again in the midst
+of fogs and clouds, unable to go either backwards or
+forwards, and if fortune specially favours us, we may
+have a slight inundation into the bargain. When I
+crossed the lake, the boatmen prophesied very fine
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_281"> 281</a></span>
+weather, consequently the rain began half an hour
+later, and is not likely soon to cease, for there are
+piles of heavy, gloomy clouds, such as you can only
+see on the mountains. If it were twice as bad three
+days hence, I should not care, but it would be
+grievous indeed if Switzerland were to take leave of
+me with so ill-omened an aspect.</p>
+
+<p>I have this moment returned from the church,
+where I have been playing the organ for three hours,
+far into the twilight: an old man, a cripple, blew the
+bellows for me, and except him, there was not a
+single soul in the church. The only stops I found
+available, were a very weak croaking flute, and a
+quavering deep pedal diapason, of sixteen feet. I
+contrived to extemporize with these materials, and
+at last subsided into a choral melody in E minor,
+without being able to remember what it was. I
+could not get rid of it, when all at once it occurred
+to me that it was a Litany, the music of which was
+in my head because the words were in my heart, so
+then I had a wide field, and plenty of food for extemporizing.
+At length the consumptive deep bass
+resounded quite alone in E minor, thus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/299.jpg" width="300" height="117" alt="music299a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/299a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_282"> 282</a></span>
+and then came in its turn the flute, high up in the
+treble, with the choral in the same key, and so the
+sounds of the organ gradually died away, and I was
+obliged to stop, from the church being so dark.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime there was a terrible hurricane of
+wind and rain outside, and not a trace of the grand
+lofty rocky precipices; the most dreary weather! and
+then I read some dreary newspapers, and everything
+wore a grey hue. Tell me, Fanny, do you know
+Auber's "Parisienne?" I consider it the very worst
+thing he has ever produced, perhaps because the
+subject was really sublime, and for other reasons
+also. Auber alone could have been guilty of composing
+for a great nation, in the most violent state
+of excitement, a cold, insignificant piece, quite
+commonplace, and trivial. The <em>refrain</em> revolts
+me every time I think of it,&mdash;it is as if children
+were playing with a drum, and singing to it&mdash;only
+more objectionable. The words also are worthless;
+little antitheses and points are quite out of place
+here. Then the emptiness of the music! a march
+for acrobats, and at the end a mere miserable imitation
+of the "Marseillaise." Such music is not what
+this epoch demands. Woe to us <em>if</em> it be indeed
+what suits this epoch,&mdash;if a mere copy of the Marseillaise
+Hymn be all that is required. What in the
+latter is full of fire, and spirit, and impetus, is in
+the former ostentatious, cold, calculated, and artificial.
+The "Marseillaise" is as superior to the
+"Parisienne" as everything produced by genuine
+enthusiasm must be, to what is made for a purpose,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_283"> 283</a></span>
+even if it be with a view to promote enthusiasm; it
+will never reach the heart, because it does not come
+from the heart.</p>
+
+<p>By the way, I never saw such a striking identity
+between a poet and a musician, as between Auber
+and Clauren. Auber faithfully renders note for
+note, what the other writes word for word&mdash;braggadocio,
+degrading sensuality, pedantry, epicurism,
+and parodies of foreign nationality. But why should
+Clauren be effaced from the literature of the day?
+Is it prejudicial to any one that he should remain
+where he is? and do you read what is really good
+with less interest? Any young poet must indeed be
+degenerate, if he does not cordially hate and despise
+such trash; but it is only too true that the people
+like him; so it is all very well, it is only the people's
+own loss. Write me your opinion of the "Parisienne."
+I sometimes sing it to myself for fun, as I
+go along; it makes a man walk like a chorister in a
+procession.</p>
+
+<h3>Sargans, September 3rd, noon.</h3>
+
+<p>Wretched weather! it has rained all night, and
+all the morning too, and the cold as severe as in
+winter; deep snow is lying on the adjacent hills.
+There has been again a tremendous inundation in
+Appenzell, which has done the greatest damage, and
+destroyed all the roads. At the Lake of Zurich,
+there are numbers of pilgrimages, and processions,
+on account of the weather. I was obliged to drive
+here this morning, as all the footpaths were covered
+with mud and water. I shall remain till to-morrow,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_284"> 284</a></span>
+when the diligence passes through at an early hour,
+and I intend to go with it up the valley of the Rhine,
+as far as Altstetten.</p>
+
+<p>To-morrow I shall probably have reached, or
+crossed, the boundaries of Switzerland, for my pleasure
+excursion is now over. Autumn is arrived, and
+I have no right to complain if I pass a few tiresome
+days, after so many enchanting ones, that I can
+never forget. On the contrary, I think I almost like
+it; there is always enough to be done, even in Sargans,
+(a wretched hole,) and in a regular deluge,
+like that of to-day&mdash;for happily an organ is always
+to be found in this country; they are certainly
+small, and the lower octave, both in the key-board
+and the pedal, imperfect, or as I call it, crippled;
+but still they are organs, and that is enough for me.</p>
+
+<p>I have been playing all this morning, and really
+begun to practise, for it is a shame that I cannot play
+Sebastian Bach's principal works. I intend, if I
+can manage it, to practise for an hour every day in
+Munich, as after a couple of hours' work to-day, I
+certainly made considerable progress with my feet
+(<em>nota bene</em>, sitting). Ritz once told me that
+Schneider, in Dresden, played him the D major
+fugue, in the "wohl-temperirten Clavier," on the
+organ, supplying the bass with the pedal.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/302.jpg" width="200" height="47" alt="music302a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/302a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>This had hitherto appeared to me so fabulous, that I
+could never properly comprehend it. It recurred to
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_285"> 285</a></span>
+me this morning when I was playing the organ, so I
+instantly attempted it, and I at least see that it is
+far from being impossible, and that I shall accomplish
+it. The subject went pretty well, so I practised
+passages from the D major fugue, for the
+organ, from the F major toccata, and the G minor
+fugue, all of which I knew by heart. If I find a
+tolerable organ in Munich, and not an imperfect
+one, I will certainly conquer these, and feel childish
+delight at the idea of playing such pieces on the
+organ. The F major toccata, with the modulation
+at the close, sounded as if the church were about
+to tumble down; what a giant that Cantor was!</p>
+
+<p>Besides organ-playing, I have a good many
+sketches to finish, in my new drawing book, (one
+was entirely filled in Engelberg) and then I must
+eat like six hundred wrestlers. After dinner I
+practise the organ again, and thus a rainy day
+passes at Sargans. It seems prettily situated, with
+a castle on the hill, but I cannot go a step beyond
+the door.</p>
+
+<p><em>Evening.</em>&mdash;Yesterday at this time, I still projected
+a pedestrian tour, and wished at all events to
+go through the whole of the Appenzell. It was a
+strange feeling when I learned that all mountain
+excursions were probably at an end for this year:
+the heights are covered with deep snow, for just as
+it has rained here, in the valley, for thirty-six hours,
+it has snowed incessantly on the hills above. The
+flocks have been obliged to come down into the
+valley from the Alps, where they ought to have remained
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_286"> 286</a></span>
+for a whole month yet, so that all idea of
+any footpaths is out of the question. Yesterday I
+was still on the hills, but now they will be inaccessible
+for six months to come. My pedestrian excursions
+are over; wondrously beautiful they were, and
+I shall never forget them.</p>
+
+<p>I mean to work hard at music, and high time
+that I should. I played on the organ till twilight,
+and was trampling energetically on the pedal, when
+we suddenly became aware that the deep C sharp
+in the great diapason, went buzzing softly on without
+ceasing; all our pressing, and shaking, and
+thumping on the keys, was of no avail, so we were
+obliged to climb into the organ among the big pipes.
+The C sharp continued gently humming,&mdash;the fault
+lay in the bellows; the organist was in the greatest
+perplexity, because to-morrow is a fête day; at last
+I stuffed my handkerchief into the pipe, and there
+was no more buzzing, but no more C sharp either.
+I played this passage incessantly, all the same:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/304.jpg" width="200" height="48" alt="music.304a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/304a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p>and it did very well.</p>
+
+<p>I am now going to finish my sketch of the Glacier
+of the Rhone, and then the day will be at my own
+disposal; which means that I am going to sleep.
+I will write to you on the next page to-morrow evening
+wherever I am, for to-day I have no idea where
+I shall be. Good night! Eight is striking in F
+minor, and it is raining and blowing in F sharp
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_287"> 287</a></span>
+minor or G sharp minor; in short, in every possible
+sharp key.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/305.jpg" width="300" height="43" alt="music305a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/305a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<h3>St. Gall, the 4th.</h3>
+
+<p>Motto&mdash;"Vous pensez que je suis l'Abbé de St.
+Gall" (Citoyen).<a name="FNanchor_23" id="FNanchor_23" href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> I do feel so comfortable here,
+after braving such storms and tempests. During
+the four hours when I was crossing the mountains
+from Altstetten to this place, I was engaged in a
+regular battle with the elements; when I tell you
+that I never experienced anything like the storm,
+nor even imagined anything approaching to it, this
+does not say much; but the oldest people in the
+Canton declare the same: a large manufactory has
+been demolished, and several persons killed. To-morrow,
+in my last letter from Switzerland, I will
+tell you of my being again obliged to travel on
+foot, and arriving here, after crossing by Appenzell,
+which looked like Egypt after the seven plagues.
+The bell is now ringing for dinner, and I mean to
+feast like an abbot.</p>
+
+<h3>Lindau, September 5th.</h3>
+
+<p>Opposite me lies Switzerland, with her dark blue
+mountains, pedestrian journeys, storms, and glorious
+heights and valleys. Here ends the greatest part of
+my journey, and my journal also.</p>
+
+<p>At noon to-day, I crossed the wild grey Rhine in
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_288"> 288</a></span>
+a ferry-boat, above Rheineck, and now here I am,
+already in Bavaria. I have of course entirely given
+up my projected excursion on foot, through the
+Bavarian mountains; for it would be folly to attempt
+anything of the kind this year. For the last four
+days it has rained more or less with incessant vehemence;
+it seemed as if Providence were wroth. I
+passed to-day through extensive orchards, which
+were not under water, but fairly submerged by mud
+and clay; everything looks deplorable and depressing;
+you must therefore forgive the doleful style
+of this last sheet. I never in any landscape saw a
+more dreary sight than the sward of the green hills,
+covered with deep snow; while below, the fruit-trees,
+with their ripe fruit, were standing reflected in the
+water. The scanty covering of muddy snow, which
+lay on the fir-woods and meadows, looked the personification
+of all that was dismal. A Sargans
+burgher told me that in 1811 this little town had
+been entirely burnt down, and recently with difficulty
+rebuilt; that they depend chiefly on the produce
+of their vineyards, which have been this year
+destroyed by hail-storms, and the Alps also were
+now no longer available; this gives rise to serious
+reflections, and to anxious thoughts with regard to
+this year.</p>
+
+<p>It is singular enough that if I am obliged to go
+on foot in such weather, and fairly exposed to it, I
+am not in the least annoyed; on the contrary, I
+rather rejoice in setting it at defiance. When I
+arrived by the diligence yesterday at Altstetten, in
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_289"> 289</a></span>
+freezing cold, like a day in December, I found that
+there was no carriage road to Tourgen, to which
+place I had unluckily sent on my cloak and knapsack
+on the last fine day. I was obliged to have them
+the same evening, for the cold was intense, so I did
+not hesitate long, but set off once more for the last
+time to cross the mountains, and arrived in the
+Canton of Appenzell.</p>
+
+<p>The state of the woods, and hills, and meadows,
+and little bridges, baffles all description; being Sunday,
+and divine service going on, I failed in procuring
+a guide; not a living soul met me the whole
+way, for all the people had crept into their houses,
+so I toiled on quite alone towards Tourgen. To
+pass through a wood in such weather, and along
+such paths, inspires a wonderful sense of independence.
+Moreover I am now quite perfect in the
+Swiss <em>jodeln</em> and crowing, so I shouted lustily, and
+<em>jodelled</em> several airs at the pitch of my voice, and
+arrived in Tourgen in capital spirits. The people
+in the inn there were rude and saucy, so I politely
+said, "You be hanged! I shall go on;" and taking
+out my map, I found that St. Gall was the nearest
+convenient place, and in fact the only practicable
+route. I could not succeed in persuading any one
+to go with me in such horrible weather, so I resolved
+to carry my own things, abusing all Swiss cordiality.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly afterwards, however, came the reverse of
+the medal, which not unfrequently occurs. I went to
+the peasant who had brought my luggage here, and
+found him in his pretty newly-built wooden house,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_290"> 290</a></span>
+and I had thus an opportunity of seeing a veritable
+and genuine Swiss interior, just as we imagine it to
+be. He and his whole family were sitting round a
+table, the house clean and warm, and the stove
+burning. The old man rose and gave me his hand,
+and insisted on my taking a seat; he then sent
+through the whole place to try to get me a carriage,
+or a man to carry my things, but as no one would
+either drive or walk, he at last sent his own son with
+me. He only asked two <em>Batzen</em> for carrying my
+knapsack for two hours. A very pretty fair daughter
+was sitting at the table sewing, the mother reading
+a thick book, and the old man himself studying
+the newspapers; it was a charming picture.</p>
+
+<p>When at last I set off, the weather seemed to say,
+"If you defy me I can defy you also," for the storm
+broke loose with redoubled violence, and an invisible
+hand appeared to seize my umbrella at intervals,
+shaking it and crumpling it together, and my fingers
+were so benumbed that I could scarcely hold it fast;
+the paths were so desperately slippery that my guide
+fell sprawling full length before me in the mud; but
+what cared we? We <em>jodelled</em> and reviled the weather
+to our hearts' content, and at last we passed the
+Nunnery, which we greeted by a serenade, and soon
+after reached St. Gall.</p>
+
+<p>Our journey was happily over, and yesterday I
+drove here, and at night met with a wonderful
+organ, on which I could play "Schmücke dich, O
+liebe Seele!" to my heart's content.</p>
+
+<p>To-day I proceed to Memmingen, to-morrow to
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_291"> 291</a></span>
+Augsburg; the day after, God willing, to Munich;
+and thus, I may now say, I <em>have been</em> in Switzerland.
+Perhaps I have rather bored you by all the trivial
+occurrences I have detailed. These are gloomy
+times, but we need not be so; and when I sent you
+my journal, it was chiefly to show you that I thought
+of you whenever I was pleased and happy, and was
+with you in spirit. The shabby, dripping pedestrian
+bids you farewell, and a town gentleman, with
+visiting-cards, fine linen, and a black coat, will write
+to you next time. Farewell.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<p class="center smcap">Burgher Letter from Munich.</p>
+
+<h3>Munich, October 6th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>It is a delightful feeling to wake in the morning
+and to know that you are to score a grand allegro
+with all sorts of instruments, and various oboes and
+trumpets, while bright weather holds out the hope
+of a cheering long walk in the afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>I have enjoyed these pleasures for a whole week
+past, so the favourable impression that Munich
+made on me during my first visit, is now very much
+enhanced. I scarcely know any place where I feel
+so comfortable and domesticated as here. It is
+indeed very delightful to be surrounded by cheerful
+faces, and your own to be so also, and to know every
+man you meet in the streets.</p>
+
+<p>I am now preparing for my concert, so my hands
+are pretty full; my acquaintances every instant
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_292"> 292</a></span>
+interrupting me in my work, the lovely weather
+tempting me to go out, and the copyists, in turn,
+forcing me to stay at home; all this constitutes the
+most agreeable and exciting life. I was obliged to
+put off my concert, on account of the October festival,
+which begins next Sunday, and lasts all the
+week. Every evening there is to be a performance
+at the theatre, and a ball, so all idea of an orchestra
+or a concert-room is out of the question. On Monday
+evening, however, the 17th, at half-past six,
+think of me,&mdash;for then we dash off with thirty violins,
+and two sets of wind instruments.</p>
+
+<p>The first part begins with the symphony in C
+minor, the second with the "Midsummer Night's
+Dream." The first part closes with my new concerto
+in G minor, and at the end of the second I have unwillingly
+agreed to extemporize. Believe me, I do
+so very reluctantly, but the people insist upon it.
+Bärmann has decided on playing again; Breiting,
+Mlle. Vial, Loehle, Bayer, and Pellegrini are the
+singers who are to execute a piece together. The
+locality is the large Odeon Hall, and the performance
+for the benefit of the poor in Munich. The magistrates
+invite the orchestra, and the burgomasters the
+singers. Every morning I am engaged in writing,
+correcting, and scoring till one o'clock, when I go
+to Scheidel's coffee-house in the Kaufinger Gasse,
+where I know each face by heart, and find the same
+people every day in the same position; two playing
+chess, three looking on, five reading the newspapers,
+six eating their dinner, and I am the seventh. After
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_293"> 293</a></span>
+dinner Bärmann usually comes to fetch me, and we
+make arrangements about the concert, or after a
+walk we have cheese and beer, and then I return
+home and set to work again.</p>
+
+<p>This time I have declined all invitations for the
+evening; but there are so many agreeable houses, to
+which I can go uninvited, that a light is seldom to
+be seen in my room on the parterre till after eight
+o'clock. You must know that I lodge on a level
+with the street, in a room which was once a shop, so
+that if I unbar the shutters of my glass door, one
+step brings me into the middle of the street, and any
+one passing along, can put his head in at the window,
+and say good morning. Next to me a Greek lodges,
+who is learning the piano, and he is truly odious;
+but to make up for that, my landlord's daughter,
+who wears a round silver cap and is very slender,
+looks all the prettier.</p>
+
+<p>I have music in my rooms at four o'clock in the
+afternoon, three times every week: Bärmann, Breiting,
+Staudacher, young Poissl, and others, come
+regularly, and we have a musical picnic. In this way
+I become acquainted with operas, which, most unpardonably,
+I have not yet either heard or seen; such
+as Lodoiska, Faniska, Medea; also the Preciosa, Abu
+Hassan, etc. The theatre lends us the scores.</p>
+
+<p>Last Wednesday we had capital fun; several
+wagers had been lost, and it was agreed that we
+should enjoy the fruits of them all together; and
+after various suggestions, we at last decided on
+having a musical soirée in my room, and to invite
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_294"> 294</a></span>
+all the dignitaries; so a list was made out of about
+thirty persons; several also came uninvited, who
+were presented to us by mutual friends. There was
+a sad want of space; at first we proposed placing
+several people on my bed, but it was surprising the
+number of patient sheep who managed to cram into
+my small room. The whole affair was most lively
+and successful. E&mdash;&mdash; was present, as dulcet as
+ever, languishing in all the glory of poetical enthusiasm,
+and grey stockings; in short, tiresome beyond
+all description.</p>
+
+<p>First I played my old quartett in B minor; then
+Breiting sang "Adelaide;" Herr S&mdash;&mdash; played variations
+on the violin (doing himself no credit); Bärmann
+performed Beethoven's first quartett (in F
+major), which he had arranged for two clarionets,
+corno di bassetto, and bassoon; an air from "Euryanthe"
+followed, which was furiously encored, and
+as a finale I extemporized&mdash;tried hard to get off&mdash;but
+they made such a tremendous uproar that <em>nolens</em>
+I was forced to comply, though I had nothing in
+my head, but wine-glasses, benches, cold roast meat,
+and ham.</p>
+
+<p>The Cornelius ladies were next-door with my landlord
+and his family, to listen to me; the Schauroths
+were making a visit on the first story for the same
+purpose, and even in the hall, and in the street,
+people were standing; in addition to all this, the
+heat of the crowded room, the deafening noise,
+the gay audience; and when at last the time for
+eating and drinking arrived, the uproar was at its
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_295"> 295</a></span>
+height; we fraternized glass in hand, and gave
+toasts; the more formal guests with their grave
+faces, sat in the midst of the jovial throng, apparently
+quite contented, and we did not separate till
+half-past one in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>The following evening formed a striking contrast.
+I was summoned to play before the Queen, and the
+Court; there all was proper and polite, and polished,
+and every time you moved your elbow, you pushed
+against an Excellency; the most smooth and complimentary
+phrases circulated in the room, and I, the
+<em>roturier</em>, stood in the midst of them, with my citizen
+heart, and my aching head! I managed however to
+get on pretty well, and at the end, I was commanded
+to extemporize on Royal themes, which I did, and
+was mightily commended; what pleased me most
+was, that when I had finished my extempore playing,
+the Queen said to me, that it was strange the power
+I possessed of carrying away my audience, for that
+during such music, no one could think of anything
+else; on which I begged to apologize for carrying
+away Her Majesty, etc.</p>
+
+<p>This, you see, is the mode in which I pass my time
+in Munich. I forgot, however, to say, that every
+day at twelve o'clock, I give little Mademoiselle
+L&mdash;&mdash; an hour's instruction in double counterpoint,
+and four-part composition, etc., which makes me
+realize more than ever the stupidity and confusion
+of most masters and books on this subject; for
+nothing can be more clear than the whole thing
+when properly explained.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_296"> 296</a></span>
+She is one of the sweetest creatures I ever saw,
+Imagine a small, delicate-looking, pale girl, with
+noble but not pretty features, so singular and interesting,
+that it is difficult to turn your eyes from her;
+while all her gestures and every word are full of
+genius. She has the gift of composing songs, and
+singing them in a way I never heard before, causing
+me the most unalloyed musical delight I ever experienced.
+When she is seated at the piano, and
+begins one of the songs, the sounds are quite unique;
+the music floats strangely to and fro, and every note
+expresses the most profound and refined feeling.
+When she sings the first note in her tender tones,
+every one present subsides into a quiet and thoughtful
+mood, and each, in his own way, is deeply
+affected.</p>
+
+<p>If you could but hear her voice! so innocent, so
+unconsciously lovely, emanating from her inmost
+soul, and yet so tranquil! Last year the genius
+was all there; she had written no song that did not
+contain some bright flash of talent, and then M&mdash;&mdash;
+and I sounded forth her praises to the musical
+world; still no one seemed to place much faith in
+us; but since that time, she has made the most
+remarkable progress. Those who are not affected
+by her present singing, can have no feeling at all;
+but unluckily it is now the fashion to beg the young
+girl to sing her songs, and then the lights are removed
+from the piano, in order that the society may
+enjoy the plaintive strains.</p>
+
+<p>This forms an unpleasant contrast, and repeatedly
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_297"> 297</a></span>
+when I was to have played something after her, I
+was quite unable, and declined doing so. It is
+probable that she may one day be spoiled by all this
+praise, because she has no one to comprehend or to
+guide her; and, strangely enough, she is as yet entirely
+devoid of all musical cultivation; she knows
+very little, and can scarcely distinguish good music
+from bad; in fact, except her own pieces, she thinks
+all else that she hears wonderfully fine. If she were
+at length to become satisfied as it were with herself,
+it would be all over with her. I have, for my part,
+done what I could, and implored her parents and
+herself in the most urgent manner, to avoid society,
+and not to allow such divine genius to be wasted.
+Heaven grant that I may be successful! I may,
+perhaps, dear sisters, soon send you some of her
+songs that she has copied out for me, in token of her
+gratitude for my teaching her what she already
+knows from nature; and because I have really led
+her to good and solid music.</p>
+
+<p>I also play on the organ every day for an hour,
+but unfortunately I cannot practise properly, as the
+pedal is short of five upper notes, so that I cannot
+play any of Sebastian Bach's passages on it; but
+the stops are wonderfully beautiful, by the aid of
+which you can vary chorals; so I dwell with delight
+on the celestial, liquid tone of the instrument.
+Moreover, Fanny, I have here discovered the particular
+stops which ought to be used in Sebastian
+Bach's "Schmücke dich, O liebe Seele." They seem
+actually made for this melody, and sound so touching,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_298"> 298</a></span>
+that a tremor invariably seizes me, when I begin to
+play it. For the flowing parts I have a flute stop of
+eight feet, and also a very soft one of four feet, which
+continually floats above the Choral. You have
+heard this effect in Berlin; but there is a keyboard
+for the Choral with nothing but reed stops, so I employ
+a mellow oboe and a soft clarion (four feet) and
+a viola; these give the Choral in subdued and touching
+tones, like distant human voices, singing from
+the depths of the heart.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, by the time you
+will have received this letter, I shall be on the "Theresien
+Wiese," with eighty thousand other people; so
+think of me there, and farewell.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Munich, October 18th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Father,</p>
+
+<p>Pray forgive me for not having written to you for
+so long. The last few days previous to my concert,
+were passed in such bustle and confusion, that I
+really had not a moment's leisure; besides I preferred
+writing to you after my concert was over,
+that I might tell you all about it, hence the long interval
+between this and my former letter.</p>
+
+<p>I write to you in particular to-day, because it is
+so long since I have had a single line from you; I
+do beg you will soon write to me, if only to say that
+you are well, and to send me your kind wishes.
+You know this always makes me glad and happy;
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_299"> 299</a></span>
+therefore excuse my addressing this letter, with all
+the little details of my concert, to you. My mother,
+and sisters, were desirous to hear them, but I was
+anxious to say how eagerly I hope for a few lines
+from you. Pray let me have them. It is a long
+time since you wrote to me!</p>
+
+<p>My concert took place yesterday, and was much
+more brilliant and successful than I expected. The
+affair went off well, and with much spirit. The
+orchestra played admirably, and the receipts for
+the benefit of the poor will be large. A few days
+after my former letter, I attended a general rehearsal,
+where the whole band were assembled, and in
+addition to the official invitation the orchestra had
+received, I was obliged to invite them verbally in a
+polite speech, in the theatre. This, to me, was the
+most trying part of the whole concert; still I did
+not object to it, for I really wished to know the
+sensations of a man who gives a concert, and this
+ceremony forms part of it. I stationed myself therefore
+at the prompter's box, and addressed the performers
+very courteously, who took off their hats,
+and when my speech was finished, there was a
+general murmur of assent. On the following day
+there were upwards of seventy signatures to the
+circular. Immediately afterwards, I had the pleasure
+of finding that the chorus singers had sent
+one of their leaders to me, to ask if I had not composed
+some chorus that I should like to be sung, in
+which case, they would all be happy to sing it
+<em>gratis</em>. Although I had decided not to give more
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_300"> 300</a></span>
+than three pieces of my composition, still the offer
+was very gratifying, and the hearty sympathy especially
+delighted me, for even the regimental musicians
+whom I had to engage for the English horns
+and trumpets, positively refused to accept a single
+kreuzer, and we had above eighty performers in the
+orchestra.</p>
+
+<p>Then came all the tiresome minor arrangements
+about advertisements, tickets, preliminary rehearsals,
+etc., and in addition to all this, it was the week of
+the October festival. In Munich the days and hours
+always glide past so very rapidly, that when they are
+gone, it really seems as if they had never been, and
+this is more peculiarly the case during this October
+festival. Every afternoon about three o'clock you
+repair to the spacious, green "Theresien Wiese,"
+which is swarming with people, and it is impossible
+to get away till the evening, for every one finds
+acquaintances without end, and something to talk
+about, or to look at; a fat ox, target-shooting, a
+race, or pretty girls in gold and silver caps, etc.
+Any affair you are engaged in, can be concluded
+there, for the whole town is congregated on the
+meadow, and not till the mists begin to rise, does
+the crowd disperse, and return towards the "Frauen
+Thürme." The people are in constant motion, running
+about in all directions, while the snowy mountains
+in the distance look clear and tranquil, each
+day giving promise of a bright morrow, and fulfilling
+that promise; and, what after all is the chief thing,
+none but careless happy faces to be seen, with the
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_301"> 301</a></span>
+occasional exception perhaps of a few Deputies,
+drinking coffee in the open air, and discussing the
+lamentable condition of the people,&mdash;while the
+people themselves are standing round them looking
+as happy as possible. On the first day the King
+distributes the prizes himself, taking off his hat to
+each winner of a prize, and giving his hand to the
+peasants, or laying hold of their arms and shaking
+them; now I think this all very proper, as here externally
+at least society appears more blended, but
+whether it sinks deep into the heart, we can discuss
+together at some future time. I adhere to my first
+opinion; at all events it is so far well, that the
+absurd restraints of etiquette should not be too
+strictly observed outwardly, and so it is always
+something gained.</p>
+
+<p>My first rehearsal took place early on Saturday.
+We had about thirty-two violins, six double-basses,
+and double sets of wind instruments, etc.: but,
+Heaven knows why, the rehearsal went badly; I
+was forced to rehearse my symphony in C minor
+alone for two hours. My concerto did not go at all
+satisfactorily. We had only time to play over the
+"Midsummer Night's Dream" once, and even then
+so hurriedly, that I wished to withdraw it from the
+bills; but Bärmann would not hear of this, and assured
+me that they would do it better next time. I
+therefore was forced to wait in considerable anxiety
+for the next rehearsal: in the meantime there was
+happily a great ball on Sunday evening, which was
+very enjoyable, so I recovered my spirits, and arrived
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_302"> 302</a></span>
+next morning at the general rehearsal in high good
+humour, and with perfect confidence. I started off
+at once with the overture; we played it over again
+and again, till at last it went well, and we did the
+same with my concerto, so that the whole rehearsal
+was quite satisfactory.</p>
+
+<p>On my way to the concert at night, when I heard
+the rattling of the carriages, I began to feel real
+pleasure in the whole affair. The Court arrived at
+half-past six. I took up my little English <em>bâton</em>, and
+conducted my symphony. The orchestra played
+magnificently, and with a degree of fire and enthusiasm
+that I never heard equalled under my
+direction; they all crashed in at the <em>forte</em>, and the
+<em>scherzo</em> was most light and delicate; it seemed to
+please the audience exceedingly, and the King was
+always the first to applaud. Then my fat friend,
+Breiting, sang the air in A flat major from "Euryanthe,"
+and the public shouted "Da capo!" and
+were in good humour, and showed good taste.
+Breiting was delighted, so he sang with spirit, and
+quite beautifully. Then came my concerto; I was
+received with long and loud applause; the orchestra
+accompanied me well, and the composition had also
+its merits, and gave much satisfaction to the audience;
+they wished to recall me, in order to give me
+another round of applause, according to the prevailing
+fashion here, but I was modest, and would
+not appear. Between the parts the King got hold
+of me, and praised me highly, asking all sorts of
+questions, and whether I was related to the Bartholdy
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_303"> 303</a></span>
+in Rome, to whose house he was in the habit of
+going, because it was the cradle of modern art,
+etc.<a name="FNanchor_24" id="FNanchor_24" href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p>
+
+<p>The second part commenced with the "Midsummer
+Night's Dream," which went admirably, and
+excited a great sensation; then Bärmann played,
+and after that we had the finale in A major from
+Lodoiska. I however did not hear either of these,
+as I was resting and cooling in the anteroom.
+When I appeared to extemporize, I was again enthusiastically
+received. The King had given me
+the theme of "Non più andrai," on which I was to
+<em>improviser</em>. My former opinion is now fully confirmed,
+that it is an absurdity to extemporize in
+public. I have seldom felt so like a fool as when I
+took my place at the piano, to present to the public
+the fruits of my inspiration; but the audience were
+quite contented, and there was no end of their
+applause. They called me forward again, and the
+Queen said all that was courteous; but I was
+annoyed, for I was far from being satisfied with myself,
+and I am resolved never again to extemporize
+in public,&mdash;it is both an abuse and an absurdity.</p>
+
+<p>So this is an account of my concert of the 17th,
+which is now among the things of the past. There
+were eleven hundred people present, so the poor
+may well be satisfied: but enough of all this. Farewell!
+May every happiness attend you all!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_304"> 304</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Paris, December 19th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Father,</p>
+
+<p>Receive my hearty thanks for your letter of the
+7th. Though I do not quite apprehend your meaning
+on some points, and also may differ from you, still I
+have no doubt that this will come all right when we
+talk things over together, especially if you permit
+me, as you have always hitherto done, to express
+my opinion in a straight-forward manner. I allude
+chiefly to your suggestion, that I should procure a
+libretto for an opera from some French poet, and
+then have it translated, and compose the music for
+the Munich stage.<a name="FNanchor_25" id="FNanchor_25" href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a></p>
+
+<p>Above all, I must tell you how sincerely I regret
+that you have only now made known to me your
+views on this subject. I went to Düsseldorf, as you
+know, expressly to consult with Immermann on the
+point. I found him ready, and willing; he accepted
+the proposal, promising to send me the poem by the
+end of May at the latest, so I do not myself see how
+it is possible for me now to draw back; indeed I do
+not wish it, as I place entire confidence in him. I
+do not in the least understand what you allude to
+in your last letter, about Immermann, and his incapacity
+to write an opera. Although I by no
+means agree with you in this opinion, still it would
+have been my duty to have settled nothing without
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_305"> 305</a></span>
+your express sanction, and I could have arranged
+the affair by letter from here, I believed however
+that I was acting quite to your satisfaction when I
+made him my offer. In addition to this, some new
+poems that he read to me, convinced me more than
+ever that he was a true poet, and supposing that I
+had an equal choice in merit, I would always decide
+rather in favour of a German than a French libretto;
+and lastly, he has fixed on a subject which has been
+long in my thoughts, and which, if I am not mistaken,
+my mother wished to see made into an opera,&mdash;I
+mean Shakspeare's "Tempest". I was therefore
+particularly pleased with this, so I shall doubly regret
+if you do not approve of what I have done. In
+any event, however, I entreat that you will neither
+be displeased with me, nor distrustful with regard to
+the work, nor cease to take any interest in it.</p>
+
+<p>From what I know of Immermann, I feel assured
+I may expect a first-rate libretto. What I alluded
+to about his solitary life, merely referred to his inward
+feelings and perceptions; for in other respects
+he is well acquainted with what is passing in the
+world. He knows what people like, and what to
+give them; but above all he is a genuine artist,
+which is the chief thing; but I am sure I need not
+say that I will not compose music for any words I do
+not consider really good, or which do not inspire me,
+and for this purpose it is essential that I should
+have your approval. I intend to reflect deeply on
+the poem before I begin the music. The dramatic
+interest or (in the best sense) the theatrical portion,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_306"> 306</a></span>
+I shall of course immediately communicate to you,
+and in short look on the affair in the serious light it
+deserves. The first step however is taken, and I
+cannot tell you how deeply I should regret your not
+being pleased.</p>
+
+<p>There is however one thing which consoles me,
+and it is that if I were to rely on my own judgment,
+I would again act precisely as I have now done,
+though I have had an opportunity of becoming acquainted
+with a great deal of French poetry, and
+seeing it in the most favourable light. Pray pardon
+me for saying exactly what I think. To compose
+for the translation of a French libretto, seems to me
+for various reasons impracticable, and I have an idea
+that you are in favour of it more on account of the
+<em>success</em> which it is likely to enjoy than for its own
+<em>intrinsic merit</em>. Moreover I well remember how
+much you disliked the subject of the "Muette de
+Portici," a <em>Muette</em> too who had gone astray, and of
+"Wilhelm Tell," which the author seems almost
+purposely to have rendered tedious.</p>
+
+<p>The success however these enjoy all over Germany
+does not assuredly depend on the work itself
+being either good or dramatic, for "Tell" is neither,
+but on their coming from Paris, and having pleased
+there. Certainly there is <em>one</em> sure road to fame in
+Germany,&mdash;that by Paris and London; still it is
+not the only one; this is proved not only by all
+Weber's works, but also by those of Spohr, whose
+"Faust" is here considered classical music, and
+which is to be given at the great Opera-house in
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_307"> 307</a></span>
+London next season. Besides, I could not possibly
+take that course, as my great opera has been bespoken
+for Munich, and I have accepted the commission.
+I am resolved therefore to make the
+attempt in Germany, and to remain and work there
+so long as I can continue to do so, and yet maintain
+myself, for this I consider my first duty. If I find
+that I cannot do this, then I must leave it for
+London or Paris, where it is easier to get on. I
+see indeed where I should be better remunerated
+and more honoured, and live more gaily, and at
+my ease, than in Germany, where a man must press
+forward, and toil, and take no rest,&mdash;still, if I can
+succeed there, I prefer the latter.</p>
+
+<p>None of the new libretti here, would in my opinion
+be attended with any success whatever, if brought
+out for the first time on a German stage. One of
+the distinctive characteristics of them all, is precisely
+of a nature that I should resolutely oppose,
+although the taste of the present day may demand
+it, and I quite admit that it may in general be more
+prudent to go with the current than to struggle
+against it. I allude to that of immorality. In
+"Robert le Diable" the nuns come one after the
+other to allure the hero of the piece, till at last the
+abbess succeeds in doing so: the same hero is conveyed
+by magic into the apartment of her whom he
+loves, and casts her from him in an attitude which
+the public here applauds, and probably all Germany
+will do the same; she then implores his mercy in a
+grand aria. In another opera a young girl divests
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_308"> 308</a></span>
+herself of her garments, and sings a song to the
+effect that next day at this time she will be married;
+all this produces effect, but I have no music for
+such things. I consider it ignoble, so if the present
+epoch exacts this style, and considers it indispensable,
+then I will write oratorios.</p>
+
+<p>Another strong reason why it would prove impracticable
+is that no French poet would undertake to
+furnish me with a poem. Indeed, it is no easy
+matter to procure one from them for this stage, for
+all the best authors are overwhelmed with commissions.
+At the same time I think it quite possible
+that I might succeed in getting one; still it never
+would occur to any of them to write a libretto for a
+<em>German</em> theatre. In the first place it would be
+much more feasible to give the opera here, and
+infinitely more rational too; in the second place,
+they would decline writing for any other stage than
+the French; in fact they could not realize any other.
+Above all it would be impossible to procure for them
+a sum equivalent to what they receive here from the
+theatres, and what they draw as their share from the
+<em>part d'auteur</em>.</p>
+
+<p>I know you will forgive me for having told you
+my opinion without reserve. You always allowed
+me to do so in conversation, so I hope you will not
+put a wrong construction on what I have written,
+and I beg you will amend my views by communicating
+your own.&mdash;Your</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_309"> 309</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>Paris, December 20th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Rebecca,</p>
+
+<p>I went yesterday to the Chambre des Députés,
+and I must now tell you about it; but what do you
+care about the Chambre des Députés? It is a political
+song, and you would rather hear whether I
+have composed any love songs, or bridal songs, or
+wedding songs; but it is a sad pity, that no songs
+but political ones are composed here. I believe I
+never in my life passed three such unmusical weeks
+as these. I feel as if I never could again think of
+composing; this all arises from the "juste milieu;"
+but it is still worse to be with musicians, for they do
+not <em>wrangle</em> about politics, but <em>lament</em> over them.
+One has lost his place, another his title, a third his
+money, and they say this all proceeds from the
+"Milieu."</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday I saw the "Milieu," in a light grey
+coat, and with a noble air, in the first place on the
+Ministerial bench. He was sharply attacked by
+M. Mauguin, who has a very long nose. Of course
+you don't care for all this; but what of that? I
+must have a chat with you. In Italy I was lazy, in
+Switzerland a wild student, in Munich a consumer
+of cheese and beer, and so in Paris I must talk
+politics. I intended to have composed various symphonies,
+and to have written some songs for certain
+ladies in Frankfort, Düsseldorf, and Berlin; but as
+yet not a chance of it. Paris obtrudes herself, and
+as above all things I must now see Paris, so I am
+busily engaged in seeing it, and am dumb.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_310"> 310</a></span>
+Moreover I am freezing with cold&mdash;another drawback.
+I cannot contrive to make my room warm,
+and I am not to get another and warmer apartment,
+till New Year's Day. In a dark little hole on the
+ground floor, overlooking a small damp garden,
+where my feet are like ice, how can I possibly write
+music? It is bitterly cold, and an Italian like myself
+is peculiarly susceptible. At this moment a
+man outside my window is singing a political song
+to a guitar.</p>
+
+<p>I live a reckless life&mdash;out morning, noon, and
+night: to-day at Baillot's; to-morrow I go to some
+friends of the Bigots; the next day, Valentin;
+Monday, Fould; Tuesday, Hiller; Wednesday, Gérard;
+and the previous week it was just the same.
+In the forenoon I rush off to the Louvre, and gaze at
+the Raphaels, and my favourite Titian; a person
+might well wish for a dozen more eyes to look at
+such a picture.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday I was in the Chamber of Peers, who
+were engaged in pronouncing judgment on their own
+hereditary rights, and I saw M. Pasquier's wig. The
+day before I paid two musical visits, to the grumbling
+Cherubini, and the kind Herz. There is a large
+sign-board before the house: "Manufacture de
+Pianos, par Henri Herz, Marchand de Modes et de
+Nouveautés." I thought this formed one, not observing
+that it was a notice of two different firms, so
+I went in below, and found myself surrounded by
+gauze, and lace, and trimmings: so, rather abashed,
+I asked where the pianos were. A number of Herz's
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_311"> 311</a></span>
+fair scholars with industrious faces, were waiting
+upstairs. I sat down by the fire and read your
+interesting account of our dear father's birthday,
+and so forth. Herz presently arrived, and gave
+audience to his pupils. We were very loving, recalled
+old times, and besprinkled each other mutually
+with great praise. On his pianos is inscribed:
+"Médaille d'or. Exposition de 1827." This was
+very imposing.</p>
+
+<p>From thence I went to Erard's, where I tried over
+his instruments, and remarked written on them in
+large letters: "Médaille d'or. Exposition de 1827."
+My respect seemed to diminish. When I went home
+I opened my own instrument by Pleyel, and to be
+sure there also I saw in large letters: "Médaille d'or.
+Exposition de 1827." The matter is like the title
+of "Hofrath," but it is characteristic. It is alleged
+that the chambers are about to discuss the following
+proposition: "Tous les Français du sexe masculin
+ont dès leur naissance le droit de porter l'ordre de
+la Légion d'Honneur," and the permission to appear
+without the order, can only be obtained by special
+services. You really scarcely see a man in the
+street without a bit of coloured ribbon, so it is no
+longer a distinction.</p>
+
+<p><em>Apropos</em>, shall I be lithographed full length?
+Answer what you will, I don't intend to do it. One
+afternoon in Berlin, when I was standing <em>unter den
+Linden</em> before Schenk's shop looking at H&mdash;&mdash;'s
+and W&mdash;&mdash;'s lithographs, I made a solemn vow to
+myself, unheard by man, that I would never allow
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_312"> 312</a></span>
+myself to be hung up till I became a great man.
+The temptation in Munich was strong; there they
+wished to drape me with a Carbonaro cloak, a stormy
+sky in the background, and my fac-simile underneath,
+but I happily got off by adhering to my principles.
+Here again I am rather tempted, for the likenesses
+are very striking, but I keep my vow; and if, after
+all, I never do become a great man, though posterity
+will be deprived of a portrait, it will have an absurdity
+the less.</p>
+
+<p>It is now the 24th, and we had a very pleasant
+evening at Baillot's yesterday. He plays beautifully,
+and had collected a very musical society of attentive
+ladies and enthusiastic gentlemen, and I have seldom
+been so well amused in any circle, or enjoyed such
+honours. It was the greatest possible delight to me
+to hear my quartett in E flat major (dedicated to B.
+P.) performed in Paris by Baillot's quartett, and
+they executed it with fire and spirit. They commenced
+with a quintett by Bocherini, an old-fashioned
+<em>perruque</em>, but a very amiable old gentleman underneath
+it. The company then asked for a sonata of
+Bach's; we selected the one in A major; old familiar
+tones dawned once more on me, of the time when
+Baillot played it with Madame Bigot.<a name="FNanchor_26" id="FNanchor_26" href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> We urged
+each other on, the affair became animated, and so
+thoroughly amused both us and our audience, that
+we immediately commenced the one in E major, and
+next time we mean to introduce the four others.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_313"> 313</a></span>
+Then my turn came to play a solo. I was in the
+vein to extemporize successfully, and felt that I did
+so. The guests being now in a graver mood, I took
+three themes from the previous sonatas, and worked
+them up to my heart's content; it seemed to give
+immense pleasure to those present, for they shouted
+and applauded like mad. Then Baillot gave my
+quartett; his manner towards me has something
+very kind, and I was doubly pleased, as he is rather
+cold at first and seldom makes advances to any
+one. He appears a good deal depressed by the loss
+of his situation. I saw a number of old well-known
+faces, and they asked after you all, and recalled
+many anecdotes of that former period.</p>
+
+<p>When I was passing through Louvain two years
+ago with my "Liederspiel" in my head, and my
+injured knee,<a name="FNanchor_27" id="FNanchor_27" href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> I seized the brass handle of a pump
+to prevent myself from falling; and when I returned
+this year in the same miserable diligence, driven by
+a postilion exactly similar, with a big queue, the
+"Liederspiel," my knee, and Italy, were all things
+of the past; and yet the handle of the pump was
+still hanging there, as clean and brightly rubbed up
+as ever, having survived 1830, and all the revolutionary
+storms, and remaining quite unchanged.
+This is sentimental; my father must not read it, for
+it is the old story of the past and the present, which
+we discussed so eagerly one fine evening, and which
+recurs to me among the crowd here at every step.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_314"> 314</a></span>
+I thought of it at the Madeleine, and when I went to
+aunt J&mdash;&mdash;'s, and at the Hôtel des Princes, and at
+the gallery, which my father showed me fifteen years
+ago, and when I saw the coloured signs, which at
+that time impressed me exceedingly, and are now
+grown brown and shabby.</p>
+
+<p>Moreover this is Christmas Eve; but I feel little
+interest in it, or in New Year's Night either. Please
+God, another year may wear a very different aspect,
+and I will not then go to the theatre on Christmas
+Eve, as I am about to do to-night, to hear Lablache
+and Rossini for the first time. How little I care
+about it! I should much prefer <em>Polichinelles</em> and
+apples to-day, and I think it very doubtful whether
+the orchestra will play as pretty a symphony as my
+"Kinder-Sinfonie."<a name="FNanchor_28" id="FNanchor_28" href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> I must be satisfied with it
+however. I am now modulating into the minor key,
+a fault with which the "École Allemande" are often
+reproached, and as I profess not to belong to the
+latter, the French say I am <em>cosmopolite</em>. Heaven
+defend me from being anything of the kind!</p>
+
+<p>And now good-bye; a thousand compliments from
+Bertin de Vaux, Girod de l'Ain, Dupont de l'Eure,
+Tracy, Sacy, Passy and other kind friends. I had
+intended to have told you in this letter how Salverte
+attacked the Ministers, and how during this time a
+little <em>émeute</em> took place on the Pont Neuf; how I
+sat in the Chambers along with Franck, in the midst
+of St. Simoniens; how witty Dupin was; but no
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_315"> 315</a></span>
+more at present. May you all be well and happy
+this evening, and thinking of me!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Paris, December 28th, 1831.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Madam Fanny,</p>
+
+<p>For three months past I have been thinking of
+writing you a musical letter, but my procrastination
+has its revenge, for though I have been a fortnight
+here, I don't know whether I shall still be able to do
+so. I have appeared in every possible mood here;
+in that of an inquiring, admiring traveller; a coxcomb;
+a Frenchman, and yesterday actually as a
+Peer of France; but not yet as a musician. Indeed
+there is little likelihood of the latter, for the aspect
+of music here is miserable enough.</p>
+
+<p>The concerts in the Conservatoire, which were my
+great object, probably will not take place at all, because
+the Commission of the Ministry wished to give
+a Commission to the Commission of the society, to
+deprive a Commission of Professors of their share of
+the profits; on which the Commission of the Conservatoire
+replied to the Commission of the Ministry,
+that they might go and be hanged (suspended), and
+then they would not consent to it. The newspapers
+make some very severe comments on this, but you
+need not read them, as these papers are prohibited
+in Berlin; but you don't lose much by this. The
+Opéra Comique is bankrupt, and so it has had
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_316"> 316</a></span>
+<em>relâche</em> since I came; at the Grand Opéra, they
+only give little operas, which amuse me, though
+they neither provoke nor excite me. "Armida" was
+the last great opera, but they gave it in three acts,
+and this was two years ago. Choron's "Institut"
+is closed, the "Chapelle Royale" is gone out like a
+light; not a single Mass is to be heard on Sundays
+in all Paris, unless accompanied by serpents. Malibran
+is to appear here next week for the last time.
+So much the better, say you: retire within yourself,
+and write music for "Ach Gott vom Himmel," or a
+symphony, or the new violin quartett which you
+mentioned in your letter to me of the 28th, or any
+other serious composition; but this is even more
+impossible, for what is going on here is most deeply
+interesting, and entices you out, suggesting matter
+for thought and memory and absorbing every moment
+of time. Accordingly I was yesterday in the
+Chambre des Pairs, and counted along with them
+the votes, destined to abolish a very ancient privilege;
+immediately afterwards I hurried off to the
+Théâtre Français, where Mars was to appear for
+the first time for a year past; (she is fascinating
+beyond conception; a voice that we shall never hear
+equalled, causing you to weep, and yet to feel pleasure
+in doing so). To-day I must see Taglioni again,
+who along with Mars constitutes two Graces (if I
+find a third in my travels, I mean to marry her),
+and afterwards I mean to go to Gérard's classical
+<em>salon</em>. I lately went to hear Lablache and Rubini,
+after hearing Odillon Barrot quarrel with the Ministry.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_317"> 317</a></span>
+Having seen the pictures in the Louvre in the
+morning, I went to Baillot's; so what chance is there
+of living in retirement? The outer world is too
+tempting.</p>
+
+<p>There are moments, however, when my thoughts
+turn inwards&mdash;such as on that memorable evening,
+when Lablache sang so beautifully, or on Christmas-day,
+when there were no bells and no festivities, or
+when Paul's letter came from London, inviting me
+to visit him next spring; the said spring to be
+passed in England. Then I feel that all that now
+interests me is merely superficial: that I am neither
+a politician, nor a dancer, nor an actor, nor a <em>bel
+esprit</em>, but a <em>musician</em>&mdash;so I take courage, and am
+now writing a professional letter to my dear sister.</p>
+
+<p>My conscience smote me, especially when I read
+about your new music that you so carefully conducted
+on my father's birthday, and I reproached
+myself for not having said a single word to you
+about your previous composition; but I cannot let
+you off that, my colleague! What the deuce made
+you think of setting your G horns so high? Did
+you ever hear a G horn take the high G without a
+squeak? I only put this to yourself! and at the
+end of this introduction, when wind instruments
+come in, does not the following note</p>
+<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/335.jpg" width="50" height="23" alt="music334a" /></div>
+<div class="center">[<a href="music/335a.mid">Listen</a>]</div>
+<p>stare you in the face, and do not these deep oboes
+growl away all pastoral feeling, and all bloom? Do
+you not know that you ought to take out a license
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_318"> 318</a></span>
+to sanction your writing the low B for oboes, and
+that it is only permitted on particular occasions,
+such as witches, or some great grief? Has not the
+composer evidently, in the A major air, overloaded
+the voice by too many other parts, so that the delicate
+intention, and the lovely melody of this otherwise
+charming piece, with all its beauties, is quite
+obscured and eclipsed?</p>
+
+<p>To speak seriously, however, this aria is very
+beautiful, and particularly fascinating. But I have
+a remark to make about your two choruses, which
+indeed applies rather to the text than to you. These
+two choruses are not sufficiently original. This
+sounds absurd; but my opinion is that it is the fault
+of the words, that express nothing original; one
+single expression might have improved the whole, but
+as they now stand, they would be equally suitable for
+church music, a cantata, an offertorium, etc. Where,
+however, they are not of such universal application,
+as for example, the lament at the end, they seem to
+be sentimental and not natural. The words of the
+last chorus are too material ("mit dem kraftlosen
+Mund, und der sich regenden Zunge"). At the
+beginning of the aria alone, are the words vigorous
+and spirited, and from them emanated the whole of
+your lovely piece of music. The choruses are of
+course fine, for they are written by you; but in the
+first place, it seems to me that they might be by any
+other good master, and secondly, as if they were not
+<em>necessarily</em> what they are, indeed as if they might
+have been <em>differently</em> composed. This arises from
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_319"> 319</a></span>
+the poetry not imposing any particular music. I
+know that the latter is often the case with my own
+compositions; but though I am fully aware of the
+beam in my own eyes, I would fain extract the mote
+from yours, to relieve you at once from its pressure.</p>
+
+<p>My <em>résumé</em> therefore is, that I would advise you
+to be more cautious in the choice of your words,
+because, after all, it is not everything in the Bible,
+even if it suits the theme, that is suggestive of
+<em>music</em>; but you have probably obviated these objections
+of mine in your new cantata, before being
+aware of them, in which case, I might as well have
+said nothing. So much the better if it be so, and
+then you can prosecute me for defamation! So far
+as your music and composition are concerned, they
+quite suit my taste; the young lady's cloven foot
+nowhere peeps forth, and if I knew any <em>Kapellmeister</em>
+capable of writing such music, I would give him a
+place at my court. Fortunately I know no such
+person, and there is no occasion to place you at my
+right hand at court, as you are there already.<a name="FNanchor_29" id="FNanchor_29" href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a></p>
+
+<p>When do you mean to send me something new to
+cheer me? Pray do so soon! As far as regards
+myself, shortly after my arrival here, I had one of
+those attacks of musical spleen, when all music, and
+more especially one's own, becomes actually hateful.
+I felt thoroughly unmusical, and did nothing but eat
+and sleep, and that revived me. F&mdash;&mdash;, to whom I
+complained of my state, instantly constructed a
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_320"> 320</a></span>
+musical theory on the subject, proving that it could
+not be otherwise; I however think exactly the
+reverse; but though we are so entirely dissimilar,
+and have as many differences as a Bushman and
+Caffre, still we like each other exceedingly.</p>
+
+<p>With L&mdash;&mdash;, too, I get on famously. He is very
+pleasing, and the most <em>dilettante</em> of all the <em>dilettanti</em>
+I ever met. He knows everything by heart, and
+plays wrong basses to them all; he is only deficient
+in arrogance, for with all his undeniable
+talent, he is very modest and retiring. I am much
+with him, because he is a benevolent, kind-hearted
+man; we should thoroughly agree on all points, if
+he would not consider me a <em>doctrinaire</em>, and persist
+in talking politics (a subject that I wish to avoid
+for at least a hundred and twenty reasons; and
+chiefly because I don't in the least understand it);
+besides, he delights in hitting at Germany, and in
+depreciating London in favour of Paris. Both these
+things are prejudicial to my <em>constitution</em>, and whoever
+assails that, I must defend it and dispute with
+him.</p>
+
+<p>I was yesterday studying your new music, and
+enjoying it, when Kalkbrenner came in, and played
+various new compositions. The man is become
+quite romantic, purloins themes, ideas, and similar
+trifles, from Hiller, writes pieces in F sharp minor,
+practises every day for several hours, and is as he
+always was, a knowing fellow. Every time I see
+him, he inquires after "my charming sister, whom
+he likes so much, and who has such a fine talent for
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_321"> 321</a></span>
+playing and composing." My invariable reply is,
+that she has not given up music, that she is very industrious,
+and that I love her very much; which is
+all true. And now farewell, dear sister. May you
+be well and happy, and may we meet at the New
+Year.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<p class="smcap">To Carl Immermann in Düsseldorf.</p>
+
+<h3>Paris, January 11th, 1832.</h3>
+
+<p>You permitted me to give you occasional tidings
+of myself, and since I came here, I have daily intended
+to do so; the excitement here is however so
+great, that till to-day I have never been able to write.
+When I contrast this constant whirl and commotion,
+and the thousand distractions among a foreign
+people, with your house in the garden, and your
+warm winter room, your wish to exchange with me
+and to come here in my place, often recurs to me,
+and I almost wish I had taken you at your word.
+You must indeed in that case have remained all the
+same in your winter room, so that I might come out
+to you through the snow, take my usual place in the
+corner, and listen to the "Schwanritter;" for there
+is more life in it than in all the tumult here.</p>
+
+<p>In a word, I rejoice at the prospect of my return
+to Germany; everything there is indeed on a small
+scale, and homely, if you will, but <em>men</em> live there;
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_322"> 322</a></span>
+men who know what art really is, who do not admire,
+nor praise, in fact who do not <em>criticize</em>, but <em>create</em>.
+You do not admit this, but it is only because you are
+yourself among the number.</p>
+
+<p>I beg you will not however think that I am like
+one of those German youths with long hair, lounging
+about listlessly, and pronouncing the French superficial,
+and Paris frivolous. I only say all this because
+I now thoroughly enjoy and admire Paris, and am
+becoming better acquainted with it, and especially
+as I am writing to you in Düsseldorf. I have, on the
+contrary, cast myself headlong into the vortex, and
+do nothing the whole day but see new objects, the
+Chambers of Peers and Deputies, pictures and theatres,
+dio- neo- cosmo- and panoramas, constant parties,
+etc. Moreover, the musicians here are as numerous
+as the sands on the sea-shore, all hating each other;
+so each must be individually visited, and wary diplomacy
+is advisable, for they are all gossips, and what
+one says to another, the whole corps know next
+morning.</p>
+
+<p>The days have thus flown past hitherto as if only
+half as long as they were in reality, and as yet I have
+not been able to compose a single bar; in a few days,
+however, this exotic life will cease. My head is now
+dizzy from all I have seen and wondered at; but I
+then intend to collect my thoughts, and set to work,
+when I shall feel once more happy and domesticated.</p>
+
+<p>My chief pleasure is going to the little theatres in
+the evening, because there French life and the
+French people are truly mirrored; the "Gymnase
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_323"> 323</a></span>
+Dramatique" is my particular favourite, where
+nothing is given but small <em>vaudevilles</em>. The extreme
+bitterness and deep animosity which pervade
+all these little comedies, are most remarkable, and
+although partially cloaked by the prettiest phrases,
+and the most lively acting, become only the more
+conspicuous. Politics everywhere play the chief
+part, which might have sufficed to make me dislike
+these theatres, for we have enough of them <em>elsewhere</em>;
+but the politics of the "Gymnase" are of a
+light and ironical description,&mdash;referring to the occurrences
+of the day, and to the newspapers, in order
+to excite laughter and applause, and at last you
+can't help laughing and applauding with the rest.
+Politics and sensuality are the two grand points of
+interest, round which everything circles; and in the
+many pieces I have seen, an attack on the Ministry,
+and a scene of seduction, were never absent.</p>
+
+<p>The whole style of the <em>vaudeville</em>, introducing
+certain conventional music at the end of the scene
+in every piece, when the actors partly sing and
+partly declaim some couplets with a witty point, is
+thoroughly French; we could never learn this, nor
+in fact wish to do so, for this mode of connecting
+the wit of the day with an established <em>refrain</em>, does
+not exist in our conversation, nor in our ideas. I
+cannot imagine anything more striking and effective,
+nor yet more prosaic.</p>
+
+<p>A great sensation has been recently caused here,
+by a new piece at the Gymnase, "Le Luthier de
+Lisbonne," which forms the delight of the public.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_324"> 324</a></span>
+A stranger is announced in the play-bills; scarcely
+does he appear when all the audience begin to laugh
+and to applaud, and you learn that the actor is a
+close imitation of Don Miguel, in gestures, manner,
+and costume; he proceeds to announce that he is a
+king, and the fortune of the piece is made. The
+more stupid, uncivilized, and uncouth, the Unknown
+appears, the greater is the enjoyment of the public,
+who allow none of his gestures or speeches to pass unobserved.
+He takes refuge from a riot in the house
+of this instrument maker, who is the most devoted
+of all royalists, but unluckily the husband of a very
+pretty woman. One of Don Miguel's favourites has
+forced her to grant him a rendezvous for the ensuing
+night, and he begs the king&mdash;who arrives at this
+moment&mdash;to give him his aid, by causing the husband
+to be beheaded. Don Miguel replies, "Très volontiers,"
+and while the Luthier recognizes him, and
+falls at his feet, beside himself from joy, Don Miguel
+signs his death-warrant, but also that of his favourite,
+whom he means to replace with the pretty woman.
+At each enormity that he commits, we laugh and
+applaud, and are immensely delighted with this
+stupid stage Don Miguel. So ends the first act.
+In the second, it is supposed to be midnight; the
+pretty wife alone and agitated. Don Miguel jumps
+in at the window, and does all in his power to gain
+her favour, making her dance and sing to him, but
+she cannot endure him, and falls at his feet, imploring
+him to spare her; on which he seizes her,
+and drags her repeatedly round the stage, and if she
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_325"> 325</a></span>
+did not make a snatch at a knife, and then a sudden
+knocking ensue, she might have been in a bad plight;
+at the close, the worthy Luthier rescues the king
+from the hands of the French soldiery, who are just
+arrived, and of whose valour, and love of liberty, he
+has a great horror. So the piece ends happily.</p>
+
+<p>A little comedy followed, where the wife betrays
+her husband, and has a lover; and another, where
+the man is faithless to his wife, and is maintained by
+his mistress; this is succeeded by a satire on the
+new constructions in the Tuileries, and on the Ministry,
+and so it goes on.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot say how it may be at the French Opera,
+for it is bankrupt, so there has been no acting there
+since I came. In the Académie Royale, however,
+Meyerbeer's "Robert le Diable" is played every
+night with great success; the house is always
+crowded, and the music has given general satisfaction.
+There is an expenditure of all possible means
+of producing stage effect, that I never saw equalled
+on any stage. All who can sing, dance, or act in
+Paris, sing, dance, and act on this occasion.</p>
+
+<p>The <em>sujet</em> is romantic; that is, the devil appears
+in the piece&mdash;(this is quite sufficient romance and
+imagination for the Parisians). It is however very
+bad; and were it not for two brilliant scenes of
+seduction it would produce no effect whatever.
+The devil is a poor devil, and appears in armour,
+for the purpose of leading astray his son Robert, a
+Norman knight, who loves a Sicilian princess. He
+succeeds in inducing him to stake his money and all
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_326"> 326</a></span>
+his personal property (that is, his sword) at dice,
+and then makes him commit sacrilege, giving him a
+magic branch, which enables him to penetrate into
+the Princess's apartment, and renders him irresistible.
+The son does all this with apparent willingness;
+but when at the end he is to assign himself to his
+father, who declares that he loves him, and cannot
+live without him, the devil, or rather the poet
+Scribe, introduces a peasant girl, who has in her
+possession the will of Robert's deceased mother,
+and reads him the document, which makes him
+doubt the story he has been told; so the devil is
+obliged to sink down through a trap-door at midnight,
+with his purpose unfulfilled, on which Robert
+marries the Princess, and the peasant girl, it seems,
+is intended to represent the principle of good. The
+devil is called Bertram.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot imagine how any music could be composed
+on such a cold, formal <em>extravaganza</em> as this,
+and so the opera does not satisfy me. It is throughout
+frigid and heartless; and where this is the case
+it produces no effect on me. The people extol the
+music, but where warmth and truth are wanting, I
+have no test to apply.</p>
+
+<p>Michael Beer set off to-day for Havre. It seems
+he intends to compose poetry there; and I now remember
+that when I met you one day at Schadow's,
+and maintained that he was no poet, your rejoinder
+was, "That is a matter of taste." I seldom see
+Heine, because he is entirely absorbed in liberal
+ideas and in politics. He has recently published
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_327"> 327</a></span>
+sixty "Frühlings Lieder." Very few of them seem
+to me either genuine or truthful, but these few are
+indeed inimitable. Have you read them? They
+appeared in the second volume of the "Reisebilder."
+Börne intends to publish some new volumes of letters:
+he and I are full of enthusiasm for Malibran
+and Taglioni; all these gentlemen are abusing and
+reviling Germany and all that is German, and yet
+they cannot speak even tolerable French; I think
+this rather provoking.</p>
+
+<p>Pray excuse my having sent you so much gossip,
+and for writing to you on such a disreputable margin
+of paper; but it is long since we met; and as for a
+time I could see you every day, it has become quite
+a necessity to write to you; so you must not take it
+amiss. You once promised to send me a few lines
+in reply: I don't know whether I may venture to
+remind you of this, but I should really be glad to
+hear how you pass your time, and what novelty a
+certain cupboard in the corner contains; how you
+get on with "Merlin," and my "Schwanritter," the
+sound of which still vibrates in my ears like sweet
+music; and also whether you sometimes think of me,
+and of next May, and "The Tempest." It is certainly
+expecting a good deal to ask you for an early
+reply to my letter, but I fear that you had enough
+of the first, and would rather not receive a second;
+therefore I take courage, and beg for an answer
+to this one. But I need not have asked this, for
+you usually guess my wishes before I can utter
+them; and if you are as kindly disposed towards
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_328"> 328</a></span>
+me now as you were then, you will fulfil this desire
+of mine as you did all the others.&mdash;Yours,</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<h3>Paris, January 14th, 1832.</h3>
+
+<p>I now first begin to feel at home here, and really
+to know Paris; it is indeed the most singular and
+amusing place imaginable; but for one who is no
+politician, it does not possess so much interest. So
+I have become a <em>doctrinaire</em>. I read my newspaper
+every morning, form my own opinion about peace
+and war, and, only among friends, confess that I
+know nothing of the matter.</p>
+
+<p>This is however not the case with F&mdash;&mdash;, who is
+completely absorbed in the vortex of dilettantism and
+dogmatism, and really believes himself quite adapted
+to be a Minister. It is a sad pity, for nothing good
+will ever come of it. He has sufficient sense to be
+always occupied, but not enough to conduct any
+affair. He is a <em>dilettante</em> on all points, and has a
+clever knack of criticizing others, but he produces
+nothing. We continue on the same intimate terms,
+meeting every day, and liking each other's society,
+but inwardly we remain strangers. I suspect that
+he writes for the public papers; he is very much
+with Heine, and chatters abuse against Germany
+like a magpie; all this I much dislike, and as I
+really have a sincere regard for him, it worries me.
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_329"> 329</a></span>
+I suppose I must try to become accustomed to it,
+but it is really too sad to know where a person is
+deficient, and yet to be unable to remedy their
+defects. Moreover he grows visibly older; so this
+irregular, unoccupied life is the less suitable for
+him.</p>
+
+<p>A&mdash;&mdash; has left his parents' house, and gone to the
+Rue Monsigny,<a name="FNanchor_30" id="FNanchor_30" href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> where body and soul are equally
+engrossed. I have in my possession an appeal
+to mankind from P&mdash;&mdash; in which he makes his confession
+of faith, and invites every one to surrender
+a share of his property, however small, to the St.
+Simoniens; calling on all artists to devote their
+genius in future to this religion; to compose better
+music than Rossini or Beethoven; to build temples
+of peace, and to paint like Raphael or David. I have
+twenty copies of this pamphlet, which P&mdash;&mdash; desired
+me, dear Father, to send to you. I rest satisfied by
+sending you <em>one</em>, which you will find quite enough,
+and even that one, by some private hand of course.</p>
+
+<p>It is a bad sign of the state of the public mind
+here, that such a monstrous doctrine, in such detestable
+prose, should ever have existed, or impressed
+others; for it appears that the students of the Polytechnic
+School take considerable interest in it. It
+is difficult to say how far it may be carried, when
+there is temptation offered on every side, promising
+honour to one, fame to another; to me, an admiring
+public, and to the poor, money; while by their cold
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_330"> 330</a></span>
+estimate of talent, they check all effort, and all
+progress. And then their ideas as to universal
+brotherhood, their disbelief in hell, and the devil,
+and eternal perdition, and of the annihilation of all
+egotism,&mdash;ideas, which in our country spring from
+nature, and prevail in every part of Christendom,
+and without which I should not wish to live, but
+which they however regard as a new invention and
+discovery, constantly repeating that they mean to
+transform the world, and to render mankind happy.
+A&mdash;&mdash; coolly tells me that he does not require to
+improve himself, but others only; because he is not
+at all imperfect, but on the contrary, perfect. They
+not only praise and compliment each other, but all
+those whom they wish to gain over; extolling any
+talent or capability you may possess, and lamenting
+that such great powers should be lost, by adhering
+to the old-fashioned notions of duty, vocation, and
+action, as they were formerly interpreted. When I
+listen to all this, it does seem to me a melancholy
+mystification. I attended a meeting last Sunday,
+where all the Fathers sat in a circle: then came
+the principal Father and demanded their reports,
+praising and blaming them, addressing the assembly,
+and issuing his commands; to me it was quite awful!
+A&mdash;&mdash; has completely renounced his parents, and
+lives with the Fathers, his disciples, and is endeavouring
+to procure a loan for their benefit; but
+enough of this subject!</p>
+
+<p>A Pole gives a concert next week, where I am to
+play in a composition for six performers, along with
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_331"> 331</a></span>
+Kalkbrenner, Hiller, and Co.; do not be surprised
+therefore if you see my name mutilated, as in the
+"Messager" lately, when the death of Professor
+Flegel (Hegel) was announced from Berlin, and all
+the papers copied it.</p>
+
+<p>I have set to work again, and live most agreeably.
+I have not yet been able to write to you about the
+theatres, although they occupy me very much. How
+plain are the symptoms of bitterness and excitement
+even in the most insignificant farce; how invariably
+everything bears a reference to politics; how completely
+what is called the Romantic School has
+infected all the Parisians, for they think of nothing
+on the stage now but the plague, the gallows, the
+devil, etc., one striving to outstrip the other in
+horrors, and in liberalism; in the midst of these
+<em>misères</em> and fooleries, how charming is a talent like
+that of Léontine Fay, who is the perfection of grace
+and fascination, and remains unsullied by the absurdities
+she is compelled to utter and to act. How
+strange all these contrasts are! but this I reserve
+for future discussion.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Paris, January 21st, 1832.</h3>
+
+<p>In every letter of yours I receive a little hit, because
+my answers are not very punctual, and so I
+reply without delay to your questions, dear Fanny,
+with regard to the new works that I am about to
+publish.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_332"> 332</a></span>
+It occurred to me that the octett and the quintett
+might make a very good appearance among my
+works, being in fact better than many compositions
+that already figure there. As the publication of
+these pieces costs me nothing, but, on the contrary,
+I derive profit from them, and not wishing to confuse
+their chronological order, my idea is to publish the
+following pieces at Easter:&mdash;quintett and octett
+(the latter also arranged as a duet), "Midsummer
+Night's Dream," seven songs without words, six
+songs with words; on my return to Germany, six
+pieces of sacred music, and finally, if I can get
+any one to print it, and to pay for it, the symphony
+in D minor. As soon as I have performed "Meeresstille"
+at my concert in Berlin, it will also appear.
+I cannot however bring out "The Hebrides" here,
+because, as I wrote to you at the time, I do not
+consider it finished; the middle movement forte in
+D major is very stupid, and the whole modulations
+savour more of counterpoint, than of train oil and
+seagulls and salt fish&mdash;and it ought to be exactly
+the reverse. I like the piece too well to allow it to
+be performed in an imperfect state, and I hope
+soon to be able to work at it, and to have it ready
+for England, and the Michaelmas fair at Leipzig.</p>
+
+<p>You inquire also why I do not compose the Italian
+symphony in A major. Because I am composing the
+Saxon overture in A minor, which is to precede the
+"Walpurgis Night," that the work may be played
+with all due honour at the said Berlin concert, and
+elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_333"> 333</a></span>
+You wish me to remove to the Marais, and to
+write the whole day. My dear child, that would
+never do; I have, at the most, only the prospect of
+three months to see Paris, so I must throw myself
+into the stream; indeed, this is why I came; everything
+here is too bright, and too attractive to be
+neglected; it rounds off my pleasant travelling
+reminiscences, and forms a fine colossal key-stone,
+and so I consider that to see Paris is at this moment
+my chief vocation. The publishers too are standing
+on each side of me like veritable Satans, demanding
+music for the piano, and offering to pay for it. By
+Heavens! I don't know whether I shall be able to
+withstand this, or write some kind of trio; for I hope
+you believe me to be superior to the temptation of a
+<em>pot-pourri</em>; but I should like to compose a couple
+of good trios.</p>
+
+<p>On Thursday the first rehearsal of my overture
+takes place, which is to be performed in the second
+concert at the "Conservatoire." In the third my
+symphony in D minor is to follow. Habeneck talks
+of seven or eight rehearsals, which will be very welcome
+to me. Moreover I am also to play something
+at Erard's concert; so I shall play my Munich concerto,
+but I must first practise it well. Then, a note
+is lying beside me, "Le Président du Conseil, Ministre
+de l'Intérieur, et Madame Casimir Périer
+prient," etc., on Monday evening to a ball; this
+evening there is to be music at Habeneck's; to-morrow
+at Schlesinger's; Tuesday, the first public <em>soirée</em>
+at Baillot's; on Wednesday, Hiller plays his Concerto
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_334"> 334</a></span>
+in the Hôtel de Ville, and this always lasts till
+past midnight. Let those who like it, lead a solitary
+life! these are all things that cannot be refused. So
+when am I to compose? In the forenoon? Yesterday,
+first Hiller came, then Kalkbrenner, then Habeneck.
+The day before that, came Baillot, Eichthal,
+and Rodrigues. Perhaps very early in the morning?
+Well, I do compose then&mdash;so you are confuted!</p>
+
+<p>P&mdash;&mdash; was with me yesterday, talking St. Simonienism,
+and either from a conviction of my stupidity,
+or my shrewdness, he made me disclosures which
+shocked me so much, that I resolved never again to
+go either to him or to his confederates. Early this
+morning Hiller rushed in, and told me he had just
+witnessed the arrest of the St. Simoniens. He wished
+to hear their orations; but the Fathers did not
+come. All of a sudden soldiers made their way in,
+and requested those present to disperse as quickly
+as possible, inasmuch as M. Enfantin and the others
+had been arrested in the Rue Monsigny. A party
+of National Guards are placed in the street, and
+other soldiers marched up there; everything is
+sealed up, and now the <em>procès</em> will begin. My B
+minor quartett, which is lying in the Rue Monsigny,
+is also sealed up. The adagio alone is in the style
+of the "juste Milieu," all the other parts <em>mouvement</em>.
+I suppose I shall eventually be obliged to
+play it before a jury.</p>
+
+<p>I was lately standing beside the Abbé Bardin at
+a large party, listening to the performance of my
+quartett in A minor. At the last movement my
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_335"> 335</a></span>
+neighbour pulled my coat, and said: "Il a cela dans
+une de ses sinfonies." "Qui?" said I, rather embarrassed.
+"Beethoven, l'auteur de ce quatuor," said
+he, with a consequential air. This was a very
+doubtful compliment! but is it not famous that my
+quartett should be played in the classes of the
+Conservatoire, and that the pupils there are practising
+off their fingers to play "Ist es wahr?"</p>
+
+<p>I have just come from St. Sulpice, where the
+organist showed off his organ to me; it sounded
+like a full chorus of old women's voices; but they
+maintain that it is the finest organ in Europe if it
+were only put into proper order, which would cost
+thirty thousand francs. The effect of the <em>canto
+fermo</em>, accompanied by a serpent, those who have
+not heard it could scarcely conceive, and clumsy
+bells are ringing all the time.</p>
+
+<p>The post is going, so I must conclude my gossip,
+or I might go on in this manner till the day after
+to-morrow. I have not yet told you that Bach's
+"Passion" is announced for performance in London,
+at Easter, in the Italian Opera House.&mdash;Yours,</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Paris, February 4th, 1832.</h3>
+
+<p>You will, I am sure, excuse my writing you only
+a few words to-day: it was but yesterday that I
+heard of my irreparable loss.<a name="FNanchor_31" id="FNanchor_31" href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> Many hopes, and a
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_336"> 336</a></span>
+pleasant bright period of my life have departed with
+him, and I never again can feel so happy. I must
+now set about forming new plans, and building fresh
+castles in the air; the former ones are irrevocably
+gone, for he was interwoven with them all. I shall
+never be able to think of my boyish days, nor of the
+ensuing ones, without connecting him with them, and
+I had hoped, till now, that it might be the same for
+the future. I must endeavour to inure myself to
+this, but I can recall no one thing without being
+reminded of him; I shall never hear music, or write
+it, without thinking of him; all this makes the rending
+asunder of such a tie doubly distressing. The
+former epoch has now wholly passed away, but not
+only do I lose that, but also the man I so sincerely
+loved. If I never had any especial reason for loving
+him, or if I no longer had such reasons, I must
+have loved him all the same, even without a reason.
+He loved me too, and the knowledge that there was
+such a man in the world&mdash;one on whom you could
+repose, and who lived to love you, and whose wishes
+and aims were identical with your own&mdash;this is all
+over: it is the most severe blow I have ever received,
+and never can I forget him.</p>
+
+<p>This was the celebration of my birthday. When
+I was listening to Baillot on Tuesday, and said to
+Hiller that I only knew one man who could play the
+music I loved for me, L&mdash;&mdash; was standing beside me,
+and knew what had happened, but did not give me
+the letter. He was not aware indeed that yesterday
+was my birthday, but he broke it to me by degrees
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_337"> 337</a></span>
+yesterday morning, and then I recalled previous
+anniversaries, and took a review of the past, as every
+one should on his birthday; I remembered how invariably
+on this day he arrived with some special gift
+which he had long thought of, and which was always
+as pleasing and agreeable and welcome as himself.
+The day was a melancholy one to me: I could neither
+do anything, nor think of anything, but the one
+subject.</p>
+
+<p>To-day I have compelled myself to work, and succeeded.
+My overture in A minor is finished. I think
+of writing some pieces here, which will be well remunerated.</p>
+
+<p>I beg you will tell me every particular about him,
+and every detail, no matter how trifling; it will be a
+comfort to me to hear of him once more. The octett
+parts, so neatly copied by him, are lying before me
+at this moment, and remind me of him. I hope
+shortly to recover my usual equanimity, and to be
+able to write to you in better spirits and more at
+length. A new chapter in my life has begun, but
+as yet it has no title. Your</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+<h3>Paris, February 13th, 1832.</h3>
+
+<p>I am now leading a quiet, pleasant life here;
+neither my present frame of mind, nor the pleasures
+of society, tempt me to enter into gaiety. Here, and
+indeed everywhere else, society is uninteresting, and
+not improving, and owing to the late hours, monopolizing
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_338"> 338</a></span>
+a great deal of time. I do not refuse, however,
+when there is to be good music. I will write all
+particulars to Zelter of the first concert in the Conservatoire.
+The performers there play quite admirably,
+and in so finished a style, that it is indeed a
+pleasure to hear them; they delight in it themselves,
+and each takes the greatest possible trouble; the
+leader is an energetic, experienced musician, so they
+cannot fail to go well together.</p>
+
+<p>To-morrow my A minor quartett is to be performed
+in public. Cherubini says of Beethoven's
+later music, "Ça me fait éternuer," and so I think it
+probable that the whole public will sneeze to-morrow.
+The performers are Baillot, Sauzay, Urhan, and
+Norblin&mdash;the best here.</p>
+
+<p>My overture in A minor is completed; it represents
+bad weather. A few days ago I finished an introduction,
+where it thaws, and spring arrives; I have
+counted the sheets of the "Walpurgis Night," revised
+the seven numbers a little, and then boldly
+written underneath&mdash;Milan, July; Paris, February.
+I think it will please you. I must now write an
+adagio for my quintett without delay; the performers
+are calling loudly for one, and they are right.</p>
+
+<p>I do wish you could hear a rehearsal of my "Midsummer
+Night's Dream" at the Conservatoire, where
+they play it most beautifully. It is not yet certain
+whether it will be ready by next Sunday; there are
+to be two more rehearsals before then, but as yet it
+has only been twice played over. I think however
+that it will do, and I would rather it was given on
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_339"> 339</a></span>
+Sunday than at the third concert, because I am to
+play on behalf of the poor on the 26th (something of
+Weber's), and on the 27th at Erard's concert (my
+Munich Concerto), and at other places, and I should
+like my composition to appear first at the "Conservatoire."
+I am also to play there, and the members
+are anxious that I should give them a Sonata of
+Beethoven's; it may seem bold, but I prefer his Concerto
+in G major, which is quite unknown here.</p>
+
+<p>I look forward with the utmost delight to the
+symphony in D minor, which is to be rehearsed next
+week; I certainly never dreamt that I should hear it
+in Paris for the first time.</p>
+
+<p>I often visit the theatre, where I see a great display
+of wit and talent, but a degree of immorality
+that almost exceeds belief. It is supposed that no
+lady can go to the "Gymnase"&mdash;still they do go.
+Depict me to yourself as reading "Notre Dame,"
+dining with one or other of my acquaintances every
+day, and taking advantage of the lovely bright
+spring weather after three o'clock, to take a walk,
+and to pay a few visits, and to look at the gaily-dressed
+ladies and gentlemen in the splendid gardens
+of the Tuileries&mdash;then you will have my day in Paris.
+Adieu.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Paris, February 21st, 1832.</h3>
+
+<p>Almost every letter that I receive from you now
+announces some sad loss. Yesterday I got the one
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_340"> 340</a></span>
+in which you tell me about poor U&mdash;&mdash;, whom I
+shall no longer find with you; so this is not a time
+for idle talk; I feel that I must work, and strive to
+make progress.</p>
+
+<p>I have composed a grand adagio as an intermezzo
+for the quintett. It is called "Nachruf," and it
+occurred to me, as I had to compose something for
+Baillot, who plays so beautifully, and is so kindly
+disposed towards me, and who wishes to perform it
+in public; and yet he is only a recent acquaintance.
+Two days ago my overture to the "Midsummer
+Night's Dream" was given for the first time at a
+concert in the Conservatoire. It caused me great
+pleasure, for it went admirably, and seemed also to
+please the audience. It is to be repeated at one of
+the ensuing concerts, and my symphony, which has
+been rather delayed on this account, is to be rehearsed
+on Friday or Saturday. In the fourth or
+fifth concert, I am to play Beethoven's Concerto in
+G major.</p>
+
+<p>The musicians are all amazement at the honours
+conferred on me by the Conservatoire. They played
+my A minor quartett wonderfully last Tuesday, with
+such fire and precision, that it was delightful to
+listen to them, and as I can never again hear Ritz,
+I shall probably never hear it better given. It appeared
+to make a great impression on the audience,
+and at the scherzo they were quite uproarious.</p>
+
+<p>It is now high time, dear father, to write you a
+few words with regard to my travelling plans, and
+on this occasion in a more serious strain than usual,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_341"> 341</a></span>
+for many reasons. I must first, in taking a general
+view of the past, refer to what you designed to be
+the chief object of my journey; desiring me strictly
+to adhere to it. I was closely to examine the
+various countries, and to fix on the one where I
+wished to live and to work; I was further to make
+known my name and capabilities, in order that the
+people, among whom I resolved to settle, should
+receive me well, and not be wholly ignorant of my
+career; and, finally, I was to take advantage of my
+own good fortune, and your kindness, to press
+forward in my subsequent efforts. It is a happy
+feeling to be able to say, that I believe this has
+been the case.</p>
+
+<p>Always excepting those mistakes which are not
+discovered till too late, I think I have fulfilled the
+appointed object. People now know that I exist,
+and that I have a purpose, and any talent that I
+display, they are ready to approve and to accept.
+They have <em>made advances</em> to me here, and <em>proposed</em>
+to take my music, which they seldom do; as all the
+others, even Onslow, have been obliged to <em>offer</em> their
+compositions. The London Philharmonic have requested
+me to perform something new of my own
+there on the 10th of March. I also got the commission
+from Munich without taking any step whatever
+to obtain it, and indeed not till <em>after</em> my concert.
+It is my intention to give a concert here (if possible)
+and certainly in London in April, if the cholera
+does not prevent my going there; and this on my
+own account, in order to make money; I hope,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_342"> 342</a></span>
+therefore, I may say that I have also fulfilled this
+part of your wish&mdash;that I should make myself known
+to the public before returning to you.</p>
+
+<p>Your injunction, too, to make choice of the country
+that I preferred to live in, I have equally performed,
+at least in a general point of view. That country is
+Germany. This is a point on which I have now
+quite made up my mind. I cannot yet, however,
+decide on the particular city, for the most important
+of all, which for various reasons has so many attractions
+for me. I have not yet thought of in this light&mdash;I
+allude to Berlin. On my return, therefore, I must
+ascertain whether I can remain and establish myself
+there, according to my views and wishes, after having
+seen and enjoyed other places.</p>
+
+<p>This is also why I do not endeavour to get the
+commission for an opera here. If I compose really
+good music, which in these days is indispensable, it
+will both be understood and valued in Germany.
+(This has been the case with all the good operas
+there.) If I compose indifferent music, it will be
+quickly forgotten in Germany, but here it would
+be often performed and extolled, and sent to Germany,
+and given there on the authority of Paris, as
+we daily see. But I do not choose this; and if I am
+not capable of composing good music, I have no
+wish to be praised for it. So I shall first try Germany;
+and if things go so badly that I can no longer
+live there, I can then have recourse to some foreign
+country. Besides, few German theatres are so bad
+or in so dilapidated a condition as the Opéra Comique
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_343"> 343</a></span>
+here. One bankruptcy succeeds another. When
+Cherubini is asked why he does not allow his operas
+to be given there, he replies, "Je ne sais pas donner
+des opéras, sans ch&oelig;ur, sans orchestre, sans chanteurs,
+et sans décorations." The Grand Opéra has
+bespoken operas for years to come, so there is no
+chance of anything being accepted by it for the
+next three or four years.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime therefore I intend to return to
+you to write my "Tempest," and to see how it succeeds.
+The plan, therefore, dear father, that I
+wish to lay before you is this&mdash;to remain here till
+the end of March, or the beginning of April, (the
+invitation to the Philharmonic for the 10th of March,
+I have of course declined, or rather postponed,) then
+to go to London for a couple of months. If the
+Rhenish musical festival takes place, to which I am
+summoned, I shall go to Düsseldorf; and if not, return
+direct to you by the shortest road, and be by
+your side in the garden soon after Whitsunday.
+Farewell!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Paris, March 15th, 1832.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Mother,</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/361.jpg" width="300" height="109" alt="music361a" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">[<a href="music/361a.mid">Listen</a>]</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_344"> 344</a></span>
+This is the 15th of March, 1832. May every happiness
+and good attend you on this day. You prefer
+<em>receiving</em> my letter on your birthday, to its being
+written on the day itself; but forgive me for saying
+that I cannot reconcile myself to this. My father
+said that no one could tell what might occur subsequently,
+therefore the letter ought to arrive on the
+anniversary of the day; but then I have this feeling
+in <em>double</em> measure, as I neither in that case know
+what is to occur to <em>you</em> on that day, nor to <em>myself</em>;
+but if your birthday be actually arrived, then
+I almost feel as if I were beside you, though you
+cannot hear my congratulations; but I can then
+send them to you, without any other solicitude than
+that of absence. This too will soon be over, please
+God. May He preserve you, and all at home, happily
+to me!</p>
+
+<p>I have now begun to throw myself in right earnest
+into a musical life, and as I know this must be satisfactory
+to you, I will write some details; for a letter
+and a sketch-book that I wished to send you some
+days ago by Mortier's aide-de-camp, are still waiting,
+like all Paris, for the departure of the Marshal,
+which does not however take place. If the letter
+and the book do eventually reach you through this
+man, pray give a kind reception to the whole consignment,
+but especially to the man (Count Perthuis),
+for he is one of the most friendly and amiable
+persons I ever met with.</p>
+
+<p>I had told you in that letter, that I am to play
+Beethoven's Concerto in G major two days hence,
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_345"> 345</a></span>
+in the Conservatoire, and that the whole Court are
+to be present for the first time at the concert.
+K&mdash;&mdash; is ready to poison me from envy; he at first
+tried by a thousand intrigues to prevent my playing
+altogether, and when he heard that the Queen was
+actually coming, the did everything in his power to
+get me out of the way. Happily all the other members
+of the Conservatoire, the all-powerful Habeneck
+in particular, are my faithful allies, and so he signally
+failed. He is the only musician here who acts unkindly
+and hypocritically towards me; and though I
+never placed much confidence in him, still it is always
+a very painful sensation to know that you are in the
+society of a person who hates you, but is careful not
+to show it.</p>
+
+<h3>The 17th.</h3>
+
+<p>I could not finish this letter, because during the
+last few days the incessant music I told you of, has
+been so overwhelming, that I really scarcely knew
+which way to turn. A mere catalogue therefore of
+all I have done, and have still to do, must suffice for
+to-day, and at the same time plead my excuse.</p>
+
+<p>I have just come back from a rehearsal at the
+Conservatoire. We rehearsed steadily; twice yesterday,
+and to-day almost everything repeated, but
+now all goes swimmingly. If the audience to-morrow
+are only half as enchanted as the orchestra to-day,
+we shall do well; for they shouted loudly for
+the adagio <em>da capo</em>, and Habeneck made them a
+little speech, to point out to them that at the close
+there was a solo bar, which they must be so good as
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_346"> 346</a></span>
+to wait for. You would be gratified to see all the
+little kindnesses and courtesies the latter shows me.
+At the end of each movement of the symphony, he
+asks me if there is anything I do not approve of, so
+I have been able for the first time, to introduce into
+the French orchestra some favourite <em>nuances</em> of
+my own.</p>
+
+<p>After the rehearsal Baillot played my octett in his
+class, and if any man in the world can play it, he is
+the man. His performance was finer than I ever
+heard it, and so was that of Urhan, Norblin, and the
+others, who all attacked the piece with the most
+ardent energy and spirit.</p>
+
+<p>Besides all this, I must finish the arrangement of
+the overture and the octett, and revise the quintett,
+as Simrock has bought it. I must write out
+"Lieder," and enjoy the author's delight of working
+up my B minor quartett, for it is to be brought out
+here by two different publishers, who have requested
+me to make some alterations before it is published.
+Finally, I have <em>soirées</em> every evening. To-night
+Bohrer's; to-morrow a fête, with all the violin
+<em>gamins</em> of the Conservatoire; next day, Rothschild;
+Tuesday, the Société des Beaux-Arts; Wednesday
+my octett at the Abbé Bardin's; Thursday my octett
+at Madame Kiéné's; Friday, a concert at Érard's;
+Sunday, a concert at Léo's; and lastly, on Monday&mdash;laugh
+if you choose&mdash;my octett is to be performed
+in a church, at a funeral Mass in commemoration of
+Beethoven. This is the strangest thing the world
+ever yet saw, but I could not refuse, and I in some
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_347"> 347</a></span>
+degree enjoy the thoughts of being present, when
+Low Mass is read during the scherzo. I can
+scarcely imagine anything more absurd than a
+priest at the altar and my scherzo going on. It is
+like travelling <em>incognito</em>. Last of all Baillot gives
+a grand concert on the 7th of April, and so I have
+promised him to remain here till then, and to play
+a Concerto of Mozart's for him, and some other
+piece.</p>
+
+<p>On the 8th I take my place in the diligence, and
+set off to London, but before doing so I shall have
+heard my symphony in the Conservatoire, and sold
+various pieces, and shall leave this, rejoicing in the
+friendly reception I have met with from the musicians
+here.&mdash;Farewell!</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>Paris, March 31st, 1832.</h3>
+
+<p>Pray forgive my long silence, but I had nothing
+cheering to communicate, and am always very unwilling
+to write gloomy letters. Indeed, this being
+the case, I had better still have remained silent,
+for I am in anything but a gay mood. But now
+that we have the spectre here,<a name="FNanchor_32" id="FNanchor_32" href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> I mean to write to
+you regularly, that you may know that I am well,
+and pursuing my work.</p>
+
+<p>The sad news of Goethe's loss makes me feel poor
+indeed! What a blow to the country! It is another
+of those mournful events connected with my stay
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_348"> 348</a></span>
+here, which will always recur to my mind at the
+very name of Paris; and not all the kindness I have
+received, nor the tumult and excitement, nor the
+life and gaiety here, can ever efface this impression.
+May it please God to preserve me from still worse
+tidings, and grant us all a happy meeting; this is
+the chief thing!</p>
+
+<p>Various circumstances have induced me to delay
+my departure from here for at least a fortnight,&mdash;that
+is, till the middle of April; and the idea of my
+concert has begun to revive in my mind; I mean to
+accomplish it too, if the cholera does not deter
+people from musical, or any other kind of réunions.
+We shall know this in the course of a week, and in
+any case I must remain here till then. I believe
+however that everything will go on in the usual
+regular course, and "Figaro" prove to be in the
+right, who wrote an article called "Enfoncé le
+choléra," in which he says that Paris is the grave of
+all reputations, for no one there ever admired anything;
+yawning at Paganini (he does not seem to
+please much this time), and not even looking round
+in the street at an Emperor or a Dey; so possibly
+this malady might also lose its formidable reputation
+there.</p>
+
+<p>Count Perthuis has no doubt told you of my
+playing at the Conservatoire. The French say that
+it was <em>un beau succès</em>, and the audience were pleased.
+The Queen, too, sent me all sorts of fine compliments
+on the subject. On Saturday I am again to
+play twice in public. My octett, in church on Monday
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_349"> 349</a></span>
+last, exceeded in absurdity anything the world
+ever saw or heard of. While the priest was officiating
+at the altar during the scherzo, it really sounded
+like "Fliegenschnauz und Mückennas, verfluchte
+Dilettanten." The people however considered it
+very fine sacred music.</p>
+
+<p>I am indeed delighted, dear Father, that my quartett
+in B minor pleases you; it is a favourite of
+mine, and I like to play it, although the adagio is
+much too cloying; still, the scherzo that follows has
+all the more effect. I can see that you seem rather
+inclined to deride my A minor quartett, when you
+say that there is a piece of instrumental music which
+has made you rack your brains to discover the composer's
+thoughts; when, in fact, he probably had no
+thoughts at all. I must defend the work, for I love
+it; but it certainly depends very much on the way
+in which it is executed, and one single musician who
+could perform it with zeal and sympathy, as Taubert
+did, would make a vast difference.&mdash;Your</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<p class="center smcap">Extract from a letter from London.</p>
+
+<h3>London, April 27th, 1832.</h3>
+
+<p>I wish I could only describe how happy I feel to
+be here once more; how much I like everything,
+and how gratified I am by the kindness of old
+friends; but as it is all going on at this moment, I
+must be brief for to-day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_350"> 350</a></span>
+I have also a number of people to seek out whom
+I have not yet seen, whilst I have been living with
+Klingemann, Rosen, and Moscheles, in as close intimacy
+as if we had never been parted. They form
+the nucleus of my present sojourn; we see each
+other every day; it is such a pleasure to me to be
+once more with good, earnest men, and true friends,
+with whom I do not require to be on my guard, nor
+to study them either. Moscheles and his wife show
+me a degree of touching kindness, which I value the
+more as my regard for them increases; and then the
+feeling of restored health, as if I lived afresh, and
+had come anew into this world&mdash;all these are combined.<a name="FNanchor_33" id="FNanchor_33" href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a></p>
+
+<h3>May 11th.</h3>
+
+<p>I cannot describe to you the happiness of these
+first weeks here. As from time to time every evil
+seems to accumulate, as it did during my winter in
+Paris, where I lost some of my most beloved friends,
+and never felt at home, and at last became very ill;
+so the reverse sometimes occurs, and thus it is in
+this charming country, where I am once more
+amongst friends, and am well, and among well-wishers,
+and enjoy in the fullest measure the sensation
+of returning health. Moreover it is warm, the
+lilacs are in bloom, and music is going on: only
+imagine how pleasant all this is!</p>
+
+<p>I must really describe one happy morning last
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_351"> 351</a></span>
+week: of all the flattering demonstrations I have
+hitherto received, it is the one which has most
+touched and affected me, and perhaps the only one
+which I shall always recall with fresh pleasure.
+There was a rehearsal last Saturday at the Philharmonic,
+where however nothing of mine was given,
+my overture not being yet written out. After "Beethoven's
+Pastoral Symphony," during which I was
+in a box, I wished to go into the room to talk to
+some old friends; scarcely, however, had I gone
+down below, when one of the orchestra called out,
+"There is Mendelssohn!" on which they all began
+shouting, and clapping their hands to such a degree,
+that for a time I really did not know what to do;
+and when this was over, another called out "Welcome
+to him!" on which the same uproar recommenced,
+and I was obliged to cross the room, and to
+clamber into the orchestra and return thanks.</p>
+
+<p>Never can I forget it, for it was more precious to
+me than any distinction, as it showed me that the
+<em>musicians</em> loved me, and rejoiced at my coming, and
+I cannot tell you what a glad feeling this was.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+
+<h3>May 18th.</h3>
+
+<p>Dear Father,</p>
+
+<p>I have received your letter of the 9th; God grant
+that Zelter may by this time be safe, and out of
+danger! You say indeed that he already is so, but
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_352"> 352</a></span>
+I shall anxiously expect your next letter, to see the
+news of his recovery confirmed. I have dreaded
+this ever since Goethe's death, but when it actually
+occurs, it is a very different thing. May Heaven
+avert it!</p>
+
+<p>Pray tell me also what your mean by saying "there
+is no doubt that Zelter both wishes, and requires, to
+have you with him, because, at all events for the
+present, it is quite impossible for him to carry on
+the Academy, whence it is evident that if you do not
+undertake it, another must." Has Zelter expressed
+this wish to you, or do you only imagine that he entertains
+it? If the former were the case, I would
+instantly, on receiving your reply, write to Zelter,
+and offer him every service in my power, of every
+kind, and try to relieve him from all his labours, for
+as long a period as he desired; and this it certainly
+would be my duty to do.</p>
+
+<p>I intended to have written to Lichtenstein before
+my return about the proposal formerly made to me,<a name="FNanchor_34" id="FNanchor_34" href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a>
+but of course I have given up all thoughts of doing
+so at present; for on no account would I assume
+that Zelter could not resume his duties, and even in
+that event, I could not reconcile myself to discuss
+the matter with any one but himself; every other
+mode of proceeding I should consider unfair towards
+him. If however he requires my services, I am
+ready, and shall rejoice if I can be of any use to him,
+but still more so, if he does not want me, and is entirely
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_353"> 353</a></span>
+recovered. I beg you will write me a few
+words on this subject.</p>
+
+<p>I must now inform you of my plans and engagements
+till I leave this. Yesterday I finished the
+"Rondeau brillant," and I am to play it this day
+week at Mori's evening concert. The day after I
+rehearse my Munich Concerto at the Philharmonic,
+and play it on Monday the 28th at their concert; on
+the 1st of June Moscheles' concert, where, with him,
+I play a Concerto of Mozart's for two pianos, and
+conduct my two overtures, "The Hebrides" and
+"The Midsummer Night's Dream." Finally, the
+last Philharmonic is on the 11th, where I am to
+conduct some piece.</p>
+
+<p>I must finish the arrangement for Cramer, and
+some "Lieder" for the piano, also some songs with
+English words, besides some German ones for myself,
+for after all it is spring, and the lilacs are in
+bloom. Last Monday "The Hebrides" was given
+for the first time in the Philharmonic; it went admirably,
+and sounded very quaint among a variety
+of Rossini pieces. The audience received both me
+and my work with extreme kindness. This evening
+is Mr. Vaughan's concert; but I am sure you must
+be quite sick of hearing of so many concerts, so I
+conclude.</p>
+
+<h3>Norwood, Surrey, May 25th.</h3>
+
+<p>These are hard times, and many are laid low!<a name="FNanchor_35" id="FNanchor_35" href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a>
+May it please God to preserve you all to me, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_354"> 354</a></span>
+to grant us a joyful meeting! You will receive this
+letter from the same villa whence I wrote to you
+three years ago last November, just before my
+return.</p>
+
+<p>I have now come out here for a few days to rest,
+and to collect my thoughts, just as I did at that
+time, on account of my health. All is unchanged
+here; my room is precisely the same; even the music
+in the old cupboard stands exactly in the same spot;
+the people are quite as considerate, and quiet, and
+attentive as formerly, and the three years have
+passed over both them and their house, as peacefully
+as if half the world had not been uprooted during
+that period.</p>
+
+<p>It is pleasant to see; the only difference is, that we
+have now gay spring, and apple-blossoms, and lilacs,
+and all kinds of flowers, whereas at that time we
+had autumn, with its fogs and blazing fires; but how
+much is now gone for ever, that we then still had;
+this gives much food for thought. Just as at that
+time I wrote to you saying little, save "farewell till
+we meet;" so must it be to-day also. It will indeed
+be a graver meeting, and I bring no "Liederspiel"
+with me composed in this room, as the former one
+was, but God grant I may only find you all well.</p>
+
+<p>You write, dear Fanny, that I ought especially to
+hasten my return, in order if possible to secure the
+situation in the Academy; but this I do not choose
+to do. I shall return as soon as I can, because my
+father writes that he wishes me to do so; I therefore
+intend to set off in about a fortnight, but solely for
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_355"> 355</a></span>
+<em>that</em> reason; the other motive would rather tend to
+detain me here, indeed, if any motive could do so;
+for I will in no manner solicit the situation.</p>
+
+<p>When I reminded my father formerly of the proposal
+of the Director, the reason which he then
+advanced against it, seemed to me perfectly just; he
+said that he regarded this place rather as a sinecure
+for more advanced years, "when the Academy might
+be resorted to as a harbour of refuge." For the
+next few years I aspire as little to <em>this</em> as to any
+other situation; my purpose is to live by the fruits
+of my labours, just as I do here, and my resolve is
+to be independent. Considering the peculiar position
+of the Academy, the small salary they give, and
+the great influence they might exercise, the place of
+Director seems to me only an honourable post, which
+I have no desire to <em>sue</em> for. If they were to offer it
+to me, I would accept it, because I promised formerly
+to do so; but only for a settled time and on certain
+conditions; and if they do not intend to offer it,
+then my presence can be of no possible use. I do
+not certainly require to convince them of my capability
+for the office, and I neither will, nor can,
+intrigue. Besides, for the reasons I mentioned in a
+previous letter, I cannot leave England till after the
+11th, and the affair will no doubt be decided before
+that time.</p>
+
+<p>I beg that no step of any kind may be taken on
+my behalf, except <em>that</em> which my father mentioned
+concerning my immediate return; but nothing in
+the smallest degree approaching to solicitation; and
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_356"> 356</a></span>
+when they do make their choice, I only hope that
+they may find a man who will perform his duties
+with as much zeal as old Zelter.</p>
+
+<p>I received the intelligence in the morning just as
+I was going to write to him; then came a rehearsal
+of my new piece for the piano, with its wild gaiety,
+and when the musicians were applauding and complimenting
+me, I could not help feeling strongly,
+that I was indeed in a foreign land. I then came
+here, where I found both men and places unchanged;
+but Hauser unexpectedly arrived, and we fell into
+each other's arms, and recalled the happy days we
+had enjoyed together in South Germany the previous
+autumn, and all that has passed away for ever,
+during the last six months. Your mournful news
+was always present to me in its sad reality&mdash;so this
+is the manner in which I have spent the last few
+days here. Forgive me for not being able to write
+properly to-day. I go to town this evening to play,
+and also to-morrow, Sunday, and Monday.</p>
+
+<p>I have now a favour to ask of you, dear Father, in
+reference to the cantatas of Sebastian Bach, which
+Zelter possessed. If you can possibly prevent their
+being disposed of before my return, pray do so, for
+I am most anxious at any price to see the entire
+collection before it is dispersed.</p>
+
+<p>I might have told you of many agreeable things
+that have occurred to me during the last few weeks,
+for every day brings me fresh proofs that the people
+like me, and are glad to associate with me; which is
+gratifying, and makes my life here easy and pleasant;
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_357"> 357</a></span>
+but to-day I really cannot. Perhaps in my next
+letter my spirits may be sufficiently restored, to
+return to my usual narrative style.</p>
+
+<p>Many remembrances from the Moscheles; they
+are excellent people, and after so long an interval,
+it is most cheering once more to meet an artist,
+who is not a victim to envy, jealousy, or miserable
+egotism. He makes continued and steady progress
+in his art.</p>
+
+<p>The warm sun is shining out-of-doors, so I shall
+now go down into the garden, to perform some
+gymnastics there, and to smell the lilacs; this will
+show you that I am well.</p>
+
+<h3>London, June 1st.</h3>
+
+<p>On the day that I received the news of Zelter's
+death, I thought that I should have had a serious
+illness, and indeed during the whole of the ensuing
+week I could not shake off this feeling. My manifold
+engagements however have now diverted my
+thoughts, and brought me to myself, or rather out
+of myself. I am well again, and very busy.</p>
+
+<p>First of all I must thank you, dear Father, for
+your kind letter. It is in a great measure already
+answered by my previous one, but I will now repeat
+why I decline sending any application to the committee.</p>
+
+<p>In the first place, I quite agree with your former
+opinion, that this situation in the Academy is not
+desirable at the outset of my career; indeed I could
+only accept it for a certain time, and under particular
+conditions, and even then, solely to perform my
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_358"> 358</a></span>
+previous promise. If I solicit it, I am bound to
+accept the place, as they choose to give it, and to
+comply with their conditions as to salary, duties,
+etc., though I do not as yet even know what these
+are.</p>
+
+<p>In the second place, the reason they gave you
+why I should write, seems to me neither a true nor
+a straightforward one. They say they wish to be
+certain I will accept of it, and that on this account
+I must enroll myself among the candidates; but they
+<em>offered</em> it to me three years ago, and Lichtenstein
+said they did so to ascertain if I would take it, and
+begged me to give a distinct answer on this point;
+at that time I said <em>yes</em>, that I was willing to carry it
+on, along with Rungenhagen. I am not sure that I
+should think the same now; but as I said so then, I
+can no longer draw back, and must keep my word.
+It is not necessary to repeat my assent, for as I once
+gave it, so it must remain; still less can I do so
+when I should have to <em>offer</em> myself to them for the
+post they once <em>offered to me</em>. If they were disposed
+to adhere to their former offer, they would not require
+me to take a step which they took themselves
+three years ago; on the contrary, they would remember
+the assent I then gave, for they must know that
+I am incapable of breaking such a promise.</p>
+
+<p>A confirmation of my former promise is therefore
+quite unnecessary, and if they intend to appoint
+another to the situation, my letter would not prevent
+their doing so. I must further refer to my letter
+from Paris, in which I told you that I wished to
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_359"> 359</a></span>
+return to Berlin in the spring, as it was the only city
+in Germany with which I was still unacquainted.</p>
+
+<p>This is my well-weighed purpose; I do not know
+how I shall get on in Berlin, or whether I shall be
+able to remain there,&mdash;that is, whether I shall be
+able to enjoy the same facilities for work, and progress,
+that are offered to me in other places. The
+only house that I know in Berlin is our own, and I
+feel certain I shall be quite happy there; but I must
+also be in a position to be actively employed, and
+this I shall discover when I return. I hope that all
+will come to pass as I wish, for of course the spot
+where <em>you</em> live must be always dearest to me; but
+till I know this to a certainty I do not wish to fetter
+myself by any situation.</p>
+
+<p>I conclude, because I have a vast deal to do to
+enable me to set off after the next Philharmonic.
+I must publish several pieces before I go; I receive
+numbers of commissions on all sides, and some
+so gratifying that I exceedingly regret not being able
+to set to work at once.</p>
+
+<p>Among others, I this morning got a note from a
+publisher, who wishes me to give him the score of
+two grand pieces of sacred music, for morning and
+evening service; you may imagine how much I am
+pleased with this proposal, and immediately on my
+arrival in the Leipziger Strasse I intend to begin
+them.</p>
+
+<p>"The Hebrides" I mean to reserve for a time for
+myself, before arranging it as a duet; but my new
+rondo is in hand, and I must finish those everlasting
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_360"> 360</a></span>
+"Lieder" for the piano, as well as various other
+arrangements, and probably the Concerto. I played
+it last Monday in the Philharmonic, and I think I
+never in my life had such success. The audience
+were crazy with delight, and declared it was my
+best work.</p>
+
+<p>I am now going to Moscheles' concert, to conduct
+there, and to play Mozart's Concerto, in which I
+have inserted two long cadences for each of us.</p>
+
+<p class="right smcap">Felix.</p>
+
+<hr class="c15 p4" />
+<div class="footnotes"><h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2>
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a></p>
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry"><div class="stanza">
+<div class="line">"Was in der Zeiten Bildersaal</div>
+<div class="line">Jemals ist trefflich gewesen,</div>
+<div class="line">Das wird immer einer einmal</div>
+<div class="line">Wieder auffrischen und lesen."</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Three pieces for the piano, composed in 1829 for the album of
+three young English ladies; subsequently published as Opus 16.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Felix Mendelssohn attended the Berlin University as a matriculated
+student for more than a year; a vast number of sheets
+written by him at this period, during the lectures, are still extant.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> A relation of the family.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_5" id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Mendelssohn's instructor in the theory of music.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_6" id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> The name of the child.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_7" id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> The violin player, Edward Ritz, an intimate friend of Mendelssohn's.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_8" id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Formerly a singer in the Royal Theatre at Berlin.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_9" id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Afterwards published under the name of "Overture to the
+Hebrides."</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_10" id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> A little sketch of the catafalque was enclosed in the letter.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_11" id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> This piece appeared afterwards as Opus 39.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_12" id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Vernet lived in the Villa Medici.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_13" id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> This picture is in the Borghese Gallery.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_14" id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> On the 3rd of February, 1830, the bands of some regiments in
+Berlin gave Mendelssohn a serenade in honour of his birthday.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_15" id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> The Prussian Consul-General Bartholdy, who died in Rome,
+and was an uncle of Felix Mendelssohn's.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_16" id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Some disturbances had in the meantime broken out in the
+Ecclesiastical States, at Bologna.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_17" id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> The whole family had been in Switzerland in the year 1821.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_18" id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> In the 'Titan' of Jean Paul.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_19" id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> The overture to the "Midsummer Night's Dream" was composed
+by Mendelssohn as early as the year 1826.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_20" id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> In the year 1821.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_21" id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> In the "Liederheft," Opus 15 of his posthumous works.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_22" id="Footnote_22" href="#FNanchor_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> Ludwig Berger, Mendelssohn's instructor on the piano.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_23" id="Footnote_23" href="#FNanchor_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> Mendelssohn jokingly alludes to a poem of <em>Bürger</em>,&mdash;Der Abt
+von St. Gallen.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_24" id="Footnote_24" href="#FNanchor_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> <em>Vide</em> the letter from <a href="#Rome_February_1st_1831">Rome</a> of the 1st of February, 1831.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_25" id="Footnote_25" href="#FNanchor_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Felix Mendelssohn, during his stay in Munich, received a
+commission from the director of the theatre, to write an opera for
+Munich.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_26" id="Footnote_26" href="#FNanchor_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> The lady who instructed Mendelssohn in the piano in Paris,
+when the family resided there for a time in 1816.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_27" id="Footnote_27" href="#FNanchor_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> Mendelssohn had been thrown out of a cabriolet in London in
+1829, and his knee seriously injured.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_28" id="Footnote_28" href="#FNanchor_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> A "Kinder-Sinfonie," composed by Mendelssohn in the year
+1829, for a Christmas family fête.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_29" id="Footnote_29" href="#FNanchor_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> A play upon Fanny Hensel's house, in a court&mdash;No. 3, Leipziger
+Strasse.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_30" id="Footnote_30" href="#FNanchor_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> At that time the residence of the St. Simoniens.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_31" id="Footnote_31" href="#FNanchor_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> The death of his friend Edward Ritz, the violin player.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_32" id="Footnote_32" href="#FNanchor_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> The cholera.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_33" id="Footnote_33" href="#FNanchor_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> Felix Mendelssohn had an attack of cholera during the last
+weeks of his stay in Paris.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_34" id="Footnote_34" href="#FNanchor_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> In reference to a situation in the Singacademie.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_35" id="Footnote_35" href="#FNanchor_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> He had received the news of Zelter's death.</p>
+
+<hr class="c5" />
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="p2 center small">THE END</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters of Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy
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@@ -0,0 +1,9892 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters of Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy from
+Italy and Switzerland, by Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Letters of Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy from Italy and Switzerland
+
+Author: Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy
+
+Release Date: April 5, 2012 [EBook #39384]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF FELIX MENDELSSOHN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Helene de Mink, Bryan Ness, Music transcribed
+by Anne Celnick, Linda Cantoni, and the DP Music Team and
+the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note: Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the
+original document have been preserved. Obvious typographical errors
+have been corrected.
+
+
+
+
+     LETTERS
+     OF
+     FELIX MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY
+     FROM
+     ITALY AND SWITZERLAND.
+
+     TRANSLATED BY LADY WALLACE.
+
+     WITH A BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICE
+     BY JULIE DE MARGUERITTES.
+
+     [Illustration: logo]
+
+     BOSTON:
+     OLIVER DITSON & CO., 277 WASHINGTON STREET.
+     NEW YORK: C. H. DITSON & CO.
+
+
+
+
+FELIX MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY.
+
+
+Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy was born at Hamburg, on the third of
+February, 1809. The name to which he was destined to add such
+lustre, was already high in the annals of fame. Moses Mendelssohn,
+his grandfather, a great Jewish philosopher, one of the most
+remarkable men of his time, was the author of profound Metaphysical
+works, written both in German and Hebrew. To this great power of
+intellect, Moses Mendelssohn added a purity and dignity of
+character worthy of the old stoics. The epigraph on the bust of
+this ancestor of the composer, shows the esteem in which he was
+held by his contemporaries:
+
+"Faithful to the religion of his fathers, as wise as Socrates, like
+Socrates teaching the immortality of the soul, and like Socrates
+leaving a name that is immortal."
+
+One of Moses Mendelssohn's daughters married Frederick Schlegel,
+and swerving from the religion in which both had been brought up,
+both became Roman Catholics.
+
+Joseph Mendelssohn, the eldest son of this great old man, was also
+distinguished for his literary taste, and has left two excellent
+works of very different characters, one on Dante, the other on the
+system of a paper currency.
+
+In conjunction with his brother, Abraham, he founded the
+banking-house of Mendelssohn & Company at Berlin, still flourishing
+under the management of the sons of the original founders, the
+brothers and cousins of Felix, the subject of this memoir.
+
+George Mendelssohn the son of Joseph, was also a distinguished
+political writer and Professor in the University at Bonn.
+
+With such an array of intellectual ancestry, the Mendelssohn of our
+day came into the world at Hamburg, on the third of February,1809.
+He was named Felix, and a more appropriate name could not have been
+found for him, for in character, circumstance and endowment, he was
+supremely happy. Goethe, speaking of him, said "the boy was born on
+a lucky day." His first piece of good fortune, was in having not
+only an excellent virtuous woman for his mother, but a woman who,
+besides these qualities, possessed extraordinary intellect and had
+received an education that fitted her to be the mother of children
+endowed as hers were. She professed the Lutheran creed, in which
+her children were brought up. Being of a distinguished commercial
+family and an heiress, her husband added her name of Bartholdy to
+his own. Mme. Mendelssohn Bartholdy's other children were, Fanny
+her first-born, whose life is entirely interwoven with that of her
+brother Felix, and Paul and Rebecca, born some years later.
+
+When yet a boy, Felix removed with his parents to Berlin, probably
+at the time of the formation of the banking house. The Prussian
+capital has often claimed the honor of being his birthplace, but
+that distinction really belongs to Hamburg.
+
+His extraordinary musical talent was not long in developing itself.
+His sister Fanny, his "soul's friend" and constant companion,
+almost as richly endowed as himself, aroused his emulation, and
+they studied music together first as an art, and then as a science,
+to be the foundation of future works of inspiration and genius.
+
+Zelter, severe and classic, profoundly scientific, inexorable for
+all that was not true science, became the teacher of these two
+gifted children in composition and in counterpoint. For piano-forte
+playing, Berger was the professor, though some years later
+Moscheles added the benefit of his counsels, and Felix was fond of
+calling himself the pupil of Moscheles, with whom in after life he
+contracted a close friendship. Zelter was exceedingly proud of his
+pupil, soon discovering that instead of an industrious and
+intelligent child, one of the greatest musical geniuses ever known
+was dawning on the world. When he was but fifteen, Zelter took the
+young musician to Weimar, and secured for him the acquaintance and
+good will of Goethe, which as long as Goethe lived, seemed to be
+the necessary consecration of all talent in Germany. By this time
+not only was he an admirable performer on the piano, possessed of
+a talent for improvisation and a memory so wonderful, that not only
+could he play almost all Bach, Haendel, Haydn, Mozart and Beethoven
+by heart, but he could also without hesitation accompany a whole
+opera from memory, provided he had but seen the score once. The
+overture to Midsummer Night's Dream, so popular now in every
+country, was composed before he was seventeen, and was played for
+the first time as a duet on the piano by his sister Fanny and
+himself on the 19th November, 1826. This is indeed the inspiration
+of youth with its brilliancy, its buoyancy, its triumphant joy,
+full of the poetry of a young heart, full of the imagination of a
+mind untainted by the world. It was not till some years after, that
+Mendelssohn completed the music to Shakspeare's great play. In
+1827, Felix left the University of Berlin with great honors. He was
+a profound classical scholar, and has left as a specimen of his
+knowledge, a correct, graceful and elegant translation of Terence's
+comedy of Andria, a work greatly approved of by Goethe. He excelled
+in gymnastics, was an elegant rider, and like Lord Byron, a bold
+and accomplished swimmer. The year he left the University, he went
+to England, where Henrietta Sonntag was in the height of her fame.
+He played in several concerts where she sang, as well as with
+Moscheles, his old friend and teacher, now established in London.
+
+On his return to Germany in 1830, he visited Goethe at Weimar, and
+there planned his journey to Italy, a country which all men of
+genius yearn after, as the promised land of inspiration. When in
+Rome, Felix Mendelssohn began the grand Cantata of the Walpurgis
+Night, to Goethe's words, at which he worked for some years. On his
+return from his travels, Mendelssohn, who had now all the assurance
+and self-possession of an artist, was appointed chapel-master at
+Duesseldorf, a position which gave him the direction of the grand
+musical festivals held at that time in this city and in
+Aix-la-Chapelle. It was during his residence in Duesseldorf, that he
+composed his oratorio of St. Paul, and also, the first set of his
+"Songs without Words" for the piano, where the music, by its varied
+expression and its intensity, alone told the story of the poet.
+These compositions were a novelty for piano-forte players, and
+inaugurated a new style, full of interest, gradually setting aside
+the variations and sonatas which had become so meaningless and
+tedious. The oratorio of St. Paul was not given until 1836, when it
+was produced at Duesseldorf, under his own special superintendence.
+Mendelssohn composed very rapidly, but he was cautious in giving
+his works to the public, until they thoroughly satisfied his
+judgment, the most critical to which they could be submitted.
+
+In the latter part of 1836, having gone to Frankfort, to direct a
+concert of the Ceciliaverein, he became acquainted with Cecilia
+Jeanrenaud, a beautiful and accomplished girl, the second daughter
+of a clergyman of the Reformed Church, and in the spring of 1837
+she became his wife. The marriage had been delayed some months by
+Mendelssohn's ill health; he had begun to feel the first symptoms
+of the nervous disease, affecting the brain, from which he was
+destined henceforth to suffer, and of which, finally, he was fated
+to die.
+
+After his marriage he undertook the direction of the Leipzig
+Concerts. All over Germany, Mendelssohn was in requisition; his
+immense genius as a composer, his great skill as a conductor, his
+gentle, fascinating manners, gave him extraordinary popularity. It
+was England, however, after all, who appreciated him most. Sacred
+music seems to appeal especially to the English taste. Haydn,
+Haendel, Beethoven have all found more patronage and appreciation in
+England than in their own country. So it was with Mendelssohn; the
+greatest musical triumph ever achieved, was the performance of the
+oratorio of Elijah, given at Birmingham, the work on which
+Mendelssohn's fame will rest. He was nine years in composing this
+oratorio; and notwithstanding the most flattering ovation,
+Mendelssohn's serene temperament was not moved to vanity or
+conceit. In the very moment of his success, he sat down modestly to
+correct many things that had not satisfied him. The trio for three
+female voices (without accompaniment) one of the most beautiful
+pieces in the oratorio, was added by the composer after the public
+had declared itself satisfied with the work as it originally stood.
+Elijah was produced in 1847, but Mendelssohn had been several times
+to England before this, playing at the ancient and Philharmonic
+concerts; at that time, the resort of the elite in London.
+
+It was during one of these visits in 1842, that Prince Albert, who
+as a German and a musician, had sought his acquaintance, introduced
+him to Queen Victoria. The visit was entirely devoid of formality,
+for without any previous announcement, the Prince conducted
+Mendelssohn from his private apartments, to the Queen's study,
+where they found her surrounded by papers, and just terminating her
+morning's work. The Queen receiving him most graciously, apologized
+to the composer for the untidiness of the room, beginning herself
+to put it in order and laughingly accepting his assistance. After
+some agreeable conversation Mendelssohn sat down to the piano and
+played whatever the Queen asked of him. When at length he rose,
+Prince Albert asked the Queen to sing, and gracefully choosing one
+of Mendelssohn's own compositions, she complied with the request.
+Mendelssohn of course applauded, but the Queen laughingly told him,
+that she had been too frightened to sing well. "Ask Lablache,"
+(Lablache was her singing master) added the Queen, "he will tell
+you that I can sing better than I have done to-day." Prince Albert
+and the Queen were ever warm patrons and friends of Mendelssohn.
+
+During all this time so brilliantly filled up, Mendelssohn's health
+was continually and gradually declining. His nervous susceptibility
+was such that he was often obliged to abstain from playing for
+weeks together, his gentle and affectionate wife watching him and
+keeping him as much as possible from composition. This was a very
+difficult task, for Mendelssohn was a great worker. Even when
+travelling, he would take out pen and ink from his pocket and
+compose at one corner of the table, whilst the dinner was getting
+ready.
+
+Little was Mendelssohn prepared, either mentally or physically at
+this time, to bear the one great sorrow that overwhelmed this happy
+life, on which the sun of prosperity had ever shone. His sister
+Fanny, to whom many of his letters were written, and who had been
+the companion of his studies, possessing the same tastes and a
+great deal of the same genius; his sister Fanny, who was the
+nearest and dearest affection of his life, was suddenly taken from
+him. She had married and was living in Frankfort, where she was the
+ornament of society, in this enlightened and art-loving city, when
+in the midst of a rehearsal of Faust, a symphony of her own
+composition, she was struck with apoplexy and fell back dead in her
+chair. There is no doubt that this shock considerably increased the
+disease from which Mendelssohn was suffering, and though he used to
+rally and even appear resigned, this sorrow, until the day of his
+death, lay heavy at his heart. Again he tried to find health and
+peace in travel; he went to Switzerland with his wife, who strove
+to keep him from all occupation and labor, but he would gently urge
+her to let him work. "The time is not far off, when I shall rest; I
+must make the most of the time given me." "I know not how short a
+time it may be," would he say to her. On his return from
+Switzerland and Baden-Baden, he went to Berlin; and once more all
+that remained of this tenderly attached family, were united for a
+short time. At length he returned to his home in Leipzig, serene as
+ever, but worn to a shadow by the acute and continued pains in the
+head for which he could obtain no relief. On the 9th of October, he
+went to the house of a friend, one of the artists of the Leipzig
+concerts, and entreated her to sing for him a song he had that
+night composed. By a strange coincidence, this song began with
+these words, "Vanished has the light of day." It was Mendelssohn's
+last composition, the last music he heard on earth, for whilst the
+lady was singing it, he was seized with vertigo and was carried
+insensible back to his house. He recovered, however, comparatively
+from this attack, but a second stroke of apoplexy placed his life
+in extreme peril, and a third, on the 3rd of November, made him
+utterly unconscious. Towards nine o'clock on the evening of the
+4th, (1847,) he breathed his last, going to his everlasting rest as
+easily and as calmly as a tired child sinks to sleep. He was in the
+thirty-ninth year of his age.
+
+Mendelssohn's death was looked upon, throughout Germany, as a
+public calamity. The funeral ceremonies at Leipzig were of a most
+imposing character, and all the way from Leipzig to Berlin, where
+the corpse was taken, to be buried in the family vault, the most
+touching honors greeted it. Nearly all the crowned heads of Europe
+wrote letters of condolence to his widow.
+
+Mendelssohn as a musician is profoundly original. In his oratorios
+"Paul" and "Elijah" he has swerved from the conventional religious
+style; eschewing all fugues, his oratorios are full of power, and
+contain great dramatic effects--at once grand and solemn. His other
+music is remarkable for the sweetness of its melodies--its earnest
+simplicity. His instrumentality is scientific without being
+pedantic or heavy, and utterly devoid of antiquated formalism;
+though pathetic often, there is always a vigor and life in all his
+inspirations; the low mournful wail that runs through all Chopin's
+works, arising from a morbid condition of health and heart, is
+never felt in Mendelssohn. There is none of the bitterness, the
+long suffering that artists' lives entail and that artists infuse
+into their works, for Mendelssohn was a happy man from first to
+last.
+
+Mendelssohn the happy, "the boy born on a lucky day," has left a
+life-record that amid the gloomy heart-rending and often degrading
+histories of artists, shines with a chaste and holy life. Nature,
+the world and circumstance had done every thing for him. To the
+great and all-sufficient gift of his musical genius he added many
+others,--he had the eye of a painter, the heart of a poet, his
+intellect was of the highest order; he was tall, handsome,
+graceful, his social position one of the finest in Berlin, rich,
+and surrounded by the tenderest family affections. With all these
+advantages, with all the success that attended him, with all the
+flattery lavished on him, Mendelssohn was never vain or proud, and
+throughout his life was utterly free from envy. His fine, fearless,
+childlike spirit, led him through the world, unconscious of evil,
+undaunted by it. With all the temptations that must have assailed
+the young, handsome, rich man, there is not one moment of his life
+over which his friends would wish to draw a veil. On such a life as
+that of Felix Mendelssohn, it is good for every one to look, for
+once, genius is not set forth as a dazzling screen to hide and to
+excuse disorder and crime, but genius, that one great gift from
+heaven, was employed as heaven would have directed it, each action,
+each succeeding year of his life, bringing forth in various but
+harmonious ways, that extraordinary moral and intellectual worth,
+that rare beauty of character that endeared him to all who knew
+him, ensured him the unvarying love of kindred and friends, and the
+admiration of the whole world.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Last year a paragraph was inserted in the newspapers, requesting
+any one who possessed letters from Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy to
+send them to Professor Droysen, or to myself, with the view of
+completing a selection from his correspondence which we
+contemplated publishing. Our design in this was twofold.
+
+In the first place, we wished to offer to the public in
+Mendelssohn's own words, which always so truly and faithfully
+mirrored his thoughts, the most genuine impression of his
+character; and secondly, we thought that the biographical elements
+contained in such a correspondence, might be of infinite use in the
+compilation of a memoir--which we reserve for a future day--and
+serve as its precursor and basis.
+
+There are difficulties, however, opposed to the immediate
+fulfilment of our original purpose to its full extent; and at
+present it is impossible to decide when these can be removed.
+
+I have, therefore, formed the resolution to carry out my plan in
+the meantime within more circumscribed limits, but which leaves me
+unfettered.
+
+On Mendelssohn's return from his first visit to England, in the
+year 1829, he came to Berlin for a short time to attend a family
+festivity, and thence in 1830 proceeded to Italy, returning through
+Switzerland to France, and in the beginning of 1832 visiting
+England for the second time.
+
+This period, which to a certain degree forms a separate section of
+his life, and which, through the vivid impressions it made,
+assuredly exercised an important influence on Mendelssohn's
+development (we may mention that he was only one-and-twenty at the
+commencement of his journey), supplies us with a number of letters
+addressed to his parents, and to his sisters, Fanny and Rebecca, as
+well as to myself. I have also added some communications of the
+same date, to various friends, partly entire and partly in
+extracts, and now present them to the public in their original
+integrity.
+
+Those who were personally acquainted with Mendelssohn, and who wish
+once more to realize him as he was when in life,--and those also
+who would be glad to acquire a more definite idea of his
+individuality than can be found in the general inferences deduced
+from his musical creations,--will not lay down these letters
+dissatisfied. Along with this particular source of interest they
+offer a more universal one, as they prove how admirably
+Mendelssohn's superior nature, and perceptions of Art, mutually
+pervaded and regulated each other.
+
+With this view, it appeared to me a duty to give to the public
+these letters, stored up in the peaceful home for which they were
+originally destined and exclusively intended, and thus to make them
+accessible to a more extended circle. They begin by a visit to
+Goethe. May his words then accompany these Letters, as an
+appropriate convoy:--
+
+     "Be sure the works of mighty men,
+     The good, the faithful, the sublime,
+     Stored in the gallery of Time,
+     Repose awhile--to wake again."[1]
+
+        PAUL MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY.
+
+  BERLIN, _March_, 1861.
+
+  [1] "Was in der Zeiten Bildersaal
+      Jemals ist trefflich gewesen,
+      Das wird immer einer einmal
+      Wieder auffrischen und lesen."
+
+
+
+
+LETTERS.
+
+
+     Weimar, May 21st, 1830.
+
+Never, in the whole course of my travels, do I remember a more
+glorious and inspiriting day for a journey than yesterday. At an
+early hour in the morning the sky was grey and cloudy, but the sun
+presently burst forth; the air was cool and fresh, and being
+Ascension Sunday the people were all dressed in their best. In one
+village I saw them crowding into church as I passed, in another
+coming away from divine service, and, last of all, playing at
+bowls. The gardens were bright with tulips, and I drove quickly
+past, eagerly looking at everything. At Weissenfels they gave me a
+little basket carriage, and at Naumburg an open droschky. My
+effects, including my hat and cloak, were piled upon it behind. I
+bought a few bunches of lilies-of-the-valley, and thus I travelled
+on through the country, as if on a pleasure excursion.
+
+Some collegians came up to me beyond Naumburg, and envied me. We
+then drove past President G----, seated in a small carriage, which
+evidently had some difficulty in containing him, and his daughters
+or _wives_; in short, the two ladies with him, who appeared equally
+envious of my position. We actually _trotted_ up the Koesen Hill,
+for the horses scarcely drew bridle, and overtook several
+heavily-laden carriages, the drivers of which no doubt also envied
+me, for I was really to be envied. The scenery had a charming air
+of spring--so cheerful and gay, and blooming. The sun sank solemnly
+behind the hills, and presently we came up with the Russian
+minister and his suite, in two heavy carriages, each with four
+horses, in true ponderous official array; and my light droschky
+darted past him like a hare.
+
+In the evening I got a pair of restive horses, so that I had my
+little annoyance also, (according to my theory, enhancing
+pleasure,) and not a single bar did I compose all day, but enjoyed
+complete idleness. It was a delicious day, and one I shall not soon
+forget. I close this description with the remark, that the children
+in Eckartsberge dance merry rounds hand-in-hand, just as ours do at
+home, and that the appearance of a stranger did not in the least
+disturb them, in spite of his distinguished air; I should have
+liked to join in their game.
+
+
+     May 24th.
+
+I wrote this before going to see Goethe, early in the forenoon,
+after a walk in the park; but I could not find a moment to finish
+my letter till now. I shall probably remain here for a couple of
+days, which is no sacrifice, for I never saw the old gentleman so
+cheerful and amiable as on this occasion, or so talkative and
+communicative. My especial reason however for staying two days
+longer, is a very agreeable one, and makes me almost vain, or I
+ought rather to say proud, and I do not intend to keep it secret
+from you,--Goethe, you must know, sent me a letter yesterday
+addressed to an artist here, a painter, which I am to deliver
+myself; and Ottilie confided to me that it contains a commission to
+take my portrait, as Goethe wishes to place it in a collection of
+likenesses he has recently commenced of his friends. This
+circumstance gratified me exceedingly; as however I have not yet
+seen the complaisant artist who is to accomplish this, nor has he
+seen me, it is probable that I shall have to remain here until the
+day after to-morrow. I don't in the least regret this, for, as I
+have told you, I live a most agreeable life here, and thoroughly
+enjoy the society of the old poet. I have dined with him every day,
+and am invited again to-day. This evening there is to be a party at
+his house, where I am to play. It is quite delightful to hear him
+conversing on every subject, and seeking information on all points.
+
+I must however tell you everything regularly and in order, so that
+you may know each separate detail.
+
+Early in the day I went to see Ottilie, who, though still delicate,
+and often complaining, I thought more cheerful than formerly, and
+quite as kind and amiable as ever towards myself. We have been
+constantly together since then, and it has been a source of much
+pleasure to me to know her more intimately. Ulrike is more
+agreeable and charming than formerly; a certain earnestness
+pervades her whole nature, and she has now a degree of repose, and
+a depth of feeling, that render her one of the most attractive
+creatures I have ever met. The two boys, Walter and Wolf, are
+lively, studious, cordial lads, and to hear them talking about
+"Grandpapa's Faust," is most pleasant.
+
+But to return to my narrative. I sent Zelter's letter at once to
+Goethe, who immediately invited me to dinner. I thought him very
+little changed in appearance, but at first rather silent and
+apathetic; I think he wished to see how I demeaned myself. I was
+vexed, and thought that possibly he was always now in this mood.
+Happily the conversation turned on the _Frauen-Vereine_ in Weimar,
+and on the 'Chaos,' a humorous paper circulated among themselves
+by the ladies here, I having soared so high as to be a contributor
+to this undertaking. All at once the old man became quite
+gay, laughing at the two ladies about their charities and
+intellectualism, and their subscriptions and hospital work, which
+he seems cordially to detest. He called on me to aid him in his
+onslaught, and as I did not require to be asked twice, he speedily
+became just what he used to be, and at last more kind and
+confidential than I had ever seen him. The assault soon became
+general. The 'Robber Bride' of Ries, he said contained all that an
+artist in these days required to live happily,--a robber and a
+bride; then he attacked the young people of the present day for
+their universal tendency to languor and melancholy, and related the
+story of a young lady to whom he had once paid court, and who also
+felt some interest in him; a discussion on the exhibitions
+followed, and a fancy bazaar for the poor, where the ladies of
+Weimar were the shopwomen, and where he declared it was impossible
+to purchase anything because the young people made a private
+agreement among themselves, and hid the different articles till the
+proper purchasers appeared.
+
+After dinner he all at once began--"Gute Kinder--huebsche
+Kinder--muss immer lustig sein--tolles Volk," etc., his eyes
+looking like those of a drowsy old lion. Then he begged me to play
+to him, and said it seemed strange that he had heard no music for
+so long; that he supposed we had made great progress, but he knew
+nothing of it. He wished me to tell him a great deal on the
+subject, saying "Do let us have a little rational conversation
+together;" and turning to Ottilie, he said, "No doubt you have
+already made your own wise arrangements, but they must yield to my
+express orders, which are, that you must make tea here this
+evening, that we may be all together again." When in return she
+asked him if it would not make him too late, as Riemer was coming
+to work with him, he replied, "As you gave your children a holiday
+from their Latin to-day, that they might hear Felix play, I think
+you might also give me one day of relaxation from _my_ work." He
+invited me to return to dinner, and I played a great deal to him in
+the evening.
+
+My three Welsh pieces, dedicated to three English sisters, have
+great success here;[2] and I am trying to rub up my English. As I
+had begged Goethe to address me as _thou_, he desired Ottilie to
+say to me on the following day, in that case I must remain longer
+than the two days I had fixed, otherwise he could not regain the
+more familiar habit I wished. He repeated this to me himself,
+saying that he did not think I should lose much by staying a little
+longer, and invited me always to dine with him when I had no other
+engagement. I have consequently been with him every day, and
+yesterday I told him a great deal about Scotland, and Hengstenberg,
+and Spontini, and Hegel's 'AEsthetics.'[3] He sent me to Tiefurth
+with the ladies, but prohibited my driving to Berka, because a very
+pretty girl lived there, and he did not wish to plunge me into
+misery.
+
+  [2] Three pieces for the piano, composed in 1829 for the album of
+  three young English ladies; subsequently published as Opus 16.
+
+  [3] Felix Mendelssohn attended the Berlin University as a
+  matriculated student for more than a year; a vast number of
+  sheets written by him at this period, during the lectures, are
+  still extant.
+
+I thought to myself, this was indeed the Goethe of whom people will
+one day say, that he was not one single individual, but consisted
+of several little _Goethiden_. I am to play over to him to-day
+various pieces of Bach, Haydn, and Mozart, and thus lead him on, as
+he said, to the present day.
+
+I should indeed have been very foolish to have regretted my delay;
+besides, I am a conscientious traveller, and have seen the Library,
+and 'Iphigenia in Aulis.' Hummel has struck out all the octaves,
+etc.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Weimar, May 25th, 1830.
+
+I have just received your welcome letter, written on Ascension Day.
+I cannot help myself, but must still write to you from this place.
+I will soon send you, dear Fanny, a copy of my symphony; I am
+having it written out here, and mean to forward it to Leipzig
+(where perhaps it will be performed), with strict orders to deliver
+it into your own hands, as soon as possible. Try to collect
+opinions as to the title I ought to select; Reformation Symphony,
+Confession Symphony, Symphony for a Church Festival, Juvenile
+Symphony, or whatever you like. Write to me on this subject, and
+instead of a number of stupid suggestions, send me one clever one;
+still, I should rather like to hear some of the nonsensical ones
+sure to be devised on the occasion.
+
+Yesterday evening I was at a party at Goethe's, and played alone
+the whole evening,--the Concert-Stueck, the Invitation a la Valse,
+and Weber's Polonaise in C, my three Welsh pieces, and my Scotch
+Sonata. It was over by ten o'clock, but I of course stayed till
+twelve o'clock, when we had all sorts of fun, dancing and singing;
+so you see I lead a most jovial life here. The old gentleman goes
+to his room regularly at nine o'clock, and as soon as he is gone,
+we begin our frolics, and never separate before midnight.
+
+To-morrow my portrait is to be finished; a large black-crayon
+sketch, and very like; but I look rather sulky. Goethe is so
+friendly and kind to me, that I don't know how to thank him
+sufficiently, or what to do to deserve it. In the forenoon he likes
+me to play to him the compositions of the various great masters, in
+chronological order, for an hour, and also tell him the progress
+they have made, while he sits in a dark corner, like a _Jupiter
+tonans_, his old eyes flashing on me. He did not wish to hear
+anything of Beethoven's, but I told him that I could not let him
+off, and played the first part of the Symphony in C minor. It
+seemed to have a singular effect on him; at first he said, "This
+causes no emotion, nothing but astonishment: it is _grandios_." He
+continued grumbling in this way, and after a long pause he began
+again,--"It is very grand, very wild; it makes one fear that the
+house is about to fall down; and what must it be when played by a
+number of men together!" During dinner, in the midst of another
+subject, he alluded to it again. You know that I dine with him
+every day, when he questions me very minutely, and is always so gay
+and communicative after dinner, that we generally remain together
+alone for an hour while he speaks on uninterruptedly.
+
+I have no greater pleasure than when he brings out engravings, and
+explains them to me, or gives his opinion of Ernani, or Lamartine's
+Elegies, or the theatre, or pretty girls. He has several times
+lately invited people, which he rarely does now, so that most of
+the guests had not seen him for a long time. I then play a great
+deal, and he compliments me before all these people, and "_ganz
+stupend_" is his favourite expression. To-day he has invited a
+number of Weimar beauties on my account, because he thinks that I
+ought to enjoy the society of young people. If I go up to him on
+such occasions, he says, "My young friend, you must join the
+ladies, and make yourself agreeable to them." I am not however
+devoid of tact, so I contrived to have him asked yesterday whether
+I did not come too often; but he growled out to Ottilie, who put
+the question to him, that "he must now begin to speak to me in good
+earnest, for I had such clear ideas, that he hoped to _learn much
+from me_." I became twice as tall in my own estimation, when
+Ottilie repeated this to me. He said so to me himself yesterday;
+and when he declared that there were many subjects he had at heart
+that I must explain to him, I _said_, "Oh, certainly!" but I
+_thought_, "This is an honour I can never forget,"--often it is the
+very reverse.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Munich, June 6th, 1830.
+
+It is a long time since I have written to you, and I fear you may
+have been anxious on my account. You must not be angry with me, for
+it was really no fault of mine, and I have been not a little
+annoyed about it. I expedited my journey as well as I could,
+inquiring everywhere about diligences, and invariably receiving
+false information. I travelled through one night on purpose to
+enable me to write to you by this day's post, of which I was told
+at Nuernberg; and when at last I arrive, I find that no post leaves
+here to-day: it is enough to drive one wild, and I feel out of all
+patience with Germany and her petty Principalities, her different
+kinds of money, her diligences, which require an hour and a quarter
+for a German mile, and her Thuringian forests, where there is
+incessant rain and wind,--nay, even with her 'Fidelio' this very
+evening, for, though dead beat, I must do my duty by going to see
+it, when I would far rather go to bed. Pray do not be angry with
+me, or scold me for my delay in writing; I do assure you that this
+very night while I was travelling, I thought I saw peeping through
+the clouds the shadow of your threatening finger; but I shall now
+proceed to explain why I could not write sooner.
+
+Some days after my last letter from Weimar, I wished, as I told
+you, to set off for this place, and said so during dinner to
+Goethe, who made no reply. After dinner however he withdrew with
+Ottilie into the recess of a window, and said, "You must persuade
+him to remain." She endeavoured to prevail on me to do so, and
+walked up and down in the garden with me. I wished however to show
+that I was a man of determination, so I remained steady to my
+resolve. Then came the old gentleman himself, and said he saw no
+use in my being in such a hurry; that he had still a great deal to
+tell me, and I had still a great deal to play to him; and what I
+had told him as to the object of my journey, was really all
+nonsense,--Weimar was my present object,--and he could not see that
+I was likely to find in _tables-d'hote_ elsewhere, what I could not
+obtain here: I would see plenty of hotels in my travels. He talked
+on in this style, which touched my heart, especially as Ottilie and
+Ulrike added their persuasions, assuring me that the old gentleman
+much more often insisted on people going away, than on their
+remaining; and as no one can be so sure of enjoying a number of
+happy days, that he can afford to throw away those that cannot fail
+to be pleasant, and as they promised to go with me to Jena, I
+resolved _not_ to be a man of determination, and agreed to stay.
+
+Seldom in the course of my life have I so little regretted any
+resolution as on this occasion, for the following day was by far
+the most delightful that I ever passed in Goethe's house. After an
+early drive, I found old Goethe very cheerful; he began to converse
+on various subjects, passing from the 'Muette de Portici' to Walter
+Scott, and thence to the beauties in Weimar; to the 'Students,'
+and the 'Robbers,' and so on to Schiller; then he spoke on
+uninterruptedly for more than an hour, with the utmost animation,
+about Schiller's life and writings, and his position in Weimar. He
+proceeded to speak of the late Grand-Duke, and of the year 1775,
+which he designated as the intellectual spring of Germany,
+declaring that no man living could describe it so well as he could;
+indeed, it had been his intention to have devoted the second volume
+of his life to this subject; but what with botany, and meteorology,
+and other stuff of the same kind, for which no one cared a straw,
+he had not yet been able to fulfil his purpose. He proceeded to
+relate various anecdotes of the time when he was director of the
+theatre, and when I wished to thank him, he said, "It is mere
+chance, it all comes to light incidentally,--called forth by your
+welcome presence." These words sounded marvellously pleasant to me;
+in short, it was one of those conversations that a man can never
+forget so long as he lives. Next day he made me a present of a
+sheet of the manuscript of 'Faust,' and at the bottom of the page
+he wrote, "To my dear young friend F. M. B., mighty, yet delicate
+master of the piano--a friendly souvenir of happy May days in 1830.
+J. W. von Goethe." He also gave me three letters of introduction to
+take with me.
+
+If that relentless 'Fidelio' did not begin at so early an hour. I
+could tell you much more, but as it is, I have only time to detail
+my farewell interview with the old gentleman. At the very beginning
+of my visit to Weimar, I spoke of a print taken from Adrian von
+Ostade, of a peasant family praying, which nine years ago made a
+deep impression on me. When I went at an early hour to take leave
+of Goethe, I found him seated beside a large portfolio, and he
+said, "So you are actually going away? I must try to keep all right
+till you return; but at all events we won't part now without some
+pious feelings, so let us once more look at the praying family
+together." He told me that I must sometimes write to him--(courage!
+courage! I mean to do so from this very place), and then he
+embraced me, and we drove off to Jena, where the Frommans received
+me with much kindness, and where the same evening I took leave of
+Ottilie and Ulrike, and came on here.
+
+_Nine o'clock._--'Fidelio' is over; and while waiting for supper I
+add a few words.
+
+Schechner is very much gone off; the quality of her voice has
+become husky; she repeatedly sang flat, yet there were moments when
+her expression was so touching, that I wept in my own fashion; all
+the others were bad, and there was also much to censure in the
+performance. Still, there is great talent in the orchestra, and the
+style in which they played the overture was very good. Certainly
+our Germany is a strange land; producing great people, but not
+appreciating them; possessing many fine singers and intellectual
+artists, but none sufficiently modest and subordinate to render
+their parts faithfully, and without false pretension. Marzeline
+introduces all sorts of flourishes into her part; Jaquino is a
+blockhead; the minister a simpleton: and when a German like
+Beethoven writes an opera, then comes a German like Stuntz or
+Poissl (or whoever it may have been) and strikes out the
+ritournelle, and similar unnecessary passages; another German adds
+a trombone part to his symphonies; a third declares that Beethoven
+is overloaded: and thus is a great man sacrificed.
+
+Farewell! be happy and merry; and may all my heartfelt wishes for
+you be fulfilled.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+TO FANNY HENSEL.
+
+     Munich, June 14th, 1830.
+
+     My dearest Sister,
+
+I received your letter of the 5th this morning; I see from it that
+you are not yet quite well. I wish I were with you, and could see
+you, and talk to you; but this is impossible, so I have written a
+song for you expressive of my wishes and thoughts. You were in my
+mind when I composed it, and I was in a tender mood. There is
+indeed nothing very new in it. You know me well, and what I am; in
+no respect am I changed, so you may smile at this and rejoice. I
+could say and wish many other things for you, but none better; and
+this letter too shall contain nothing else. You know that I am
+always your own; and may it please God to bestow on you all that I
+hope and pray.
+
+  [Music]
+
+  [Music]
+
+  [Music]
+
+
+     Linz, August 11th, 1830.
+
+     Dearest Mother,
+
+"How a travelling musician bore his bad luck in Salzburg."
+A fragment from the unwritten journal of Count F. M. B.
+(continuation.) After I had finished my last letter to you, a
+regular day of misfortunes commenced for me. I took up my pencil,
+and so entirely destroyed two of my pet sketches, taken in the
+Bavarian mountains, that I was obliged to tear them from my book,
+and to throw them out of the window. This provoked me exceedingly;
+so to divert my mind, I went to the Capuchin Hill: of course I
+contrived to lose my way, and at the very moment, when I at last
+found myself on the summit, it began to rain so furiously that I
+was forced to run down again with all speed under the shelter of an
+umbrella. Well! I resolved at all events to have a look at the
+monastery at the foot of the hill, so I rang the bell, when I
+suddenly recollected that I had not sufficient money to give the
+monk who was to show the building, and as this is a kind of thing
+that they take highly amiss, I hurried away without waiting till
+the porter appeared.
+
+I then closed my packet of letters for Leipzig, and took it myself
+to the post, but there I was told, that it must first be examined
+at the Custom-house; so thither I went. They kept me waiting a
+whole hour, till they composed a certificate of three lines, and
+behaved so saucily that I was forced to quarrel with them. Hang
+Salzburg! thought I; so I ordered horses for Ischl, where I hoped
+to escape from all my bad luck. No horses were to be had without a
+permission from the police. I went to the police office. "No
+permission can be granted till you bring your passport." Why pursue
+the subject? After innumerable delays, and running about hither and
+thither, the wished-for post-carriage arrived. My dinner was over,
+my luggage ready, and I thought that at last all was in good train:
+my bill and the servants fees were paid.
+
+Just as I reached the door, I saw two handsome open carriages
+approaching at a foot's pace, and the people of the inn hurrying to
+receive the travellers, who were following on foot. I however paid
+no attention to the new arrivals, but jumped into my carriage. I
+observed, that at the same moment, one of the travelling carriages
+drew up close to mine, and that a lady was seated in it,--but what
+a lady! That you may not instantly jump to the conclusion that I
+had suddenly fallen in love, which would have been the crowning
+point of my unlucky day, I must tell you that she was an elderly
+lady; but she looked very amiable and benevolent; she wore a black
+dress, and a massive gold chain, and smiled good-humouredly when
+she paid the postilion his fare. Heaven knows why I continued to
+arrange my luggage instead of driving off. I did look across
+continually at the other carriage, and though the lady was an
+entire stranger to me I felt a strong inclination to address her.
+It might be mere imagination on my part, but I do think that she
+too looked at the dusty traveller in his student's cap. At length
+she got out of the carriage, and stood close to the door of my
+vehicle, leaning her hand on it, and I required all my knowledge of
+the common proprieties of travelling, not to get out myself and say
+to her, "Dear lady, what may your name be?" Routine however
+conquered, and I called out with an air of dignity, "Postilion! go
+on!" on which the lady quickly withdrew her hand, and we set off. I
+felt in no very pleasant humour, and while thinking over the events
+of the day, I fell asleep.
+
+A carriage with two gentlemen passing us, woke me up, and the
+following dialogue ensued between the postilion and myself. _I._
+These gentlemen are coming from Ischl, so I shall probably find no
+horses there. _He._ Oh! the two carriages that stopped at the Inn
+were also from Ischl; still there is no doubt you will get horses.
+_I._ Are you sure they came from Ischl? _He._ Quite sure: they go
+there every year, and were here last summer also; I drove them. It
+is a baroness from Vienna, (Heavens! thought I,) and she is
+dreadfully rich, and has such handsome daughters. When they went to
+Berchtesgaden to visit the mines, I drove them, and very nice they
+looked in their miner's dresses: they have a grand estate, and yet
+they speak to us quite familiarly. Halt! cried I; what name?--Don't
+know.--Pereira?[4]--Not sure.--Drive back,--said I in a resolute
+tone.--If I do, we shall not reach Ischl to-night, and we have got
+over the worst hill; you can learn the name at the next stage.--I
+hesitated, and we drove on. They did not know the name at the next
+stage, nor at the following one either. At length, at the end of
+seven long wearisome hours, we arrived, and before I left the
+carriage, I said, who were the party who drove to Salzburg this
+morning in two carriages? and received the quiet reply,--Baroness
+Pereira; she proceeds to Gastein early to-morrow morning, but
+returns four or five days hence. Now I had arrived at a certainty,
+and I also spoke to her driver, who said that none of the family
+were here. The two gentlemen I met in a carriage on the road, were
+sons of the Baroness (the very two I had never seen). In addition
+to all this, I remembered a wretched portrait that I had once got a
+glimpse of at our aunt H----'s, and the lady in the black dress was
+Baroness Pereira! Heaven knows when I may have another opportunity
+of seeing her! I do not think that she ever could have made a more
+pleasing impression on me, and I shall not assuredly soon forget
+her attractive appearance, and her kind expression of countenance.
+
+  [4] A relation of the family.
+
+Nothing is more unsatisfactory than a presentiment; we all
+experience them, but we never discover till too late, that they
+really were presentiments. I would have returned then and there,
+and travelled through the night, but I reflected that I should only
+overtake her at the very moment of her departure, or that possibly
+she might have left Salzburg before my arrival, and that I should
+thus frustrate all the plan of my journey to Vienna. At one moment
+I thought of going to Gastein, but I could not help feeling that
+Salzburg had treated me very badly, so I once more said adieu, and
+went to bed very crest-fallen. Next morning I desired that her
+empty house should be pointed out to me, and made a sketch of it
+for you, dear mother. My bad luck, however, was still growling in
+the distance, for I could find no favourable spot to take my sketch
+from. Besides, they charged me more than a ducat at the inn for
+one night's entertainment, etc., etc. I gave utterance to various
+anathemas, both in English and German, and drove away, laying aside
+among the things of the past, Ischl, Salzburg, Baroness Pereira,
+and the Traunsee; and so I came on here, where I have taken a day's
+rest.
+
+To-morrow I intend to pursue my journey, and (D. V.) to sleep in
+Vienna the day after. I will write to you further from thence. Thus
+ended my day of misfortunes; "truth, and _no_ poetry," not even the
+leaning the hand against the door of my carriage is invention; all
+is a portrait taken from life. The most incomprehensible thing is
+that I should have totally overlooked Flora, who it seems was also
+there, for the old lady in a tartan cloak, who went into the inn,
+was Frau von W----, and the old gentleman with green spectacles who
+followed her, could not well have been Flora? In short, when things
+once take a wrong turn, they will have their course. I can write no
+more to-day, for my disappointment is still too recent; in my next
+letter I will describe the Salzkammergut, and all the beauties of
+my journey yesterday. How right Devrient was to advise me to take
+this route! The Traunstein also, and the Traun Falls, are
+wonderfully fine; and after all, the world is a very pleasant
+world, and it is fortunate for me that you are in it, and that I
+shall find letters from you the day after to-morrow, and possibly
+much that is agreeable besides. Dear Fanny, I mean now to compose
+my _Non nobis_, and the symphony in A minor. Dear Rebecca, if you
+could hear me singing "Im warmen Thal" in a spasmodic fashion, you
+would think it rather deplorable; you could sing it better. Oh,
+Paul! can you declare that you understand the Schein Gulden, W. W.
+Gulden, heavy Gulden, light Gulden, Conventions Gulden, and the
+devil and his grandmother's Gulden? I don't, one bit. I wish
+therefore that you were with me, but for many reasons besides this
+one. Farewell!
+
+
+     Presburg, September 27th, 1830.
+
+     Dear Brother,
+
+Peals of bells, drums and music, carriages on carriages, people
+hurrying in all directions, everywhere gay crowds, such is the
+general aspect around me, for to-morrow is to be the coronation of
+the King, which the whole city has been expecting since yesterday,
+and are now imploring that the sky may clear up, and wake bright
+and cheerful, for the grand ceremony which ought to have taken
+place yesterday was obliged to be deferred on account of the
+torrents of rain. This afternoon the sky is blue and beautiful, and
+the moon is now shining down tranquilly on the tumult of the city.
+To-morrow at a very early hour the Crown Prince is to take his
+oaths (as King of Hungary) in the large Market-place; he is then to
+go to church in grand procession, attended by a whole array of
+bishops and nobles of the realm, and afterwards rides up the
+Koenigsberg, which lies opposite my windows, in order to wave his
+sword towards the banks of the Danube and the four quarters of the
+globe, in token that he takes possession of his new realm.
+
+This excursion has made me acquainted with a new country; for
+Hungary with her magnates, her high dignitaries, her Oriental
+luxury, and also her barbarism, is to be seen here, and the streets
+offer a spectacle which is to me both novel and striking. We really
+seem here to approach closer to the East; the miserably obtuse
+peasants or serfs; the troops of gipsies; the equipages and
+retainers of the nobles overloaded with gold and gems, (for the
+grandees themselves are only visible through the closed windows of
+their carriages); then the singularly bold national physiognomy,
+the yellow hue, the long moustaches, the soft foreign idiom--all
+this makes the most motley impression in the world.
+
+Early yesterday I went alone through the streets. First came a long
+array of jovial officers, on spirited little horses; behind them a
+crew of gipsies, making music; succeeded by Vienna fashionables,
+with eye-glasses and kid gloves, conversing with a Capuchin monk;
+then a couple of uncivilized peasants in long white coats, their
+hats pressed down on their foreheads, and their straight black hair
+cut even all round, (they have reddish-brown complexions, a languid
+gait, and an indescribable expression of savage stupidity and
+indifference); then came a couple of sharp, acute-looking students
+of theology, in their long blue coats, walking arm-in-arm;
+Hungarian proprietors in their dark blue national costume; court
+servants; and numbers of carriages every moment arriving, covered
+with mud. I followed the crowd as they slowly moved on up the hill,
+and so at last I arrived at the dilapidated castle, which commands
+an extensive view of the whole city and the Danube. People were
+looking down on all sides from the ancient white walls, and from
+the towers and balconies; in every corner boys were scribbling
+their names on the walls for the benefit of posterity; in a small
+chamber (perhaps once on a time a chapel, or a sleeping-apartment)
+an ox was in the act of being roasted whole, and as it turned on
+the spit, the people shouted with delight; a succession of cannons
+bristled before the castle, destined to bellow forth their
+appropriate thunders at the coronation.
+
+Below, on the Danube, which runs very rapidly here, darting with
+the speed of an arrow through the pontoon bridge, lay a new
+steamer, that had just arrived, laden with strangers; then the
+extensive view of the flat but wooded country, and meadows
+overflowed by the Danube; of the embankments and streets swarming
+with human beings, and mountains clothed with Hungarian vines--all
+this was not a little strange and foreign. Then the pleasant
+contrast of living in the same house with the best and most
+friendly people in the world, and finding novelty doubly
+interesting in their society. These were really among the happy
+days, dear brother, that a kind Providence so often and so richly
+bestows on me.
+
+
+     September 28th, one o'clock.
+
+The King is crowned--the ceremony was wonderfully fine. How can I
+even try to describe it to you? An hour hence we will all drive
+back to Vienna, and thence I pursue my journey. There is a
+tremendous uproar under my windows, and the Burgher-guards are
+flocking together, but only for the purpose of shouting "_Vivat!_"
+I pushed my way through the crowd, while our ladies saw everything
+from the windows, and never can I forget the effect of all this
+brilliant and almost fabulous magnificence.
+
+In the great square of the Hospitallers the people were closely
+packed together, for there the oaths were to be taken on a platform
+hung with cloth; and afterwards the people were to be allowed the
+privilege of tearing down the cloth for their own use; close by was
+a fountain spouting red and white Hungarian wine. The grenadiers
+could not keep back the people; one unlucky hackney coach that
+stopped for a moment was instantly covered with men, who clambered
+on the spokes of the wheels, and on the roof, and on the box,
+swarming on it like ants, so that the coachman, unable to drive on
+without becoming a murderer, was forced to wait quietly where he
+was. When the procession arrived, which was received bare-headed, I
+had the utmost difficulty in taking off my hat, and holding it
+above my head; an old Hungarian, however, behind me, whose view it
+intercepted, quickly devised a remedy, for without ceremony he made
+a snatch at my unlucky hat, and in an instant flattened it to the
+size of a cap; then they yelled as if they had all been spitted,
+and fought for the cloth; in short they were a mob; but my Magyars!
+the fellows look as if they were born noblemen, and privileged to
+live at ease, looking very melancholy, but riding like the devil.
+
+When the procession descended the hill, first came the court
+servants, covered with embroidery, the trumpeters and kettle drums,
+the heralds and all that class, and then suddenly galloped along
+the street a mad Count, _en pleine carriere_, his horse plunging
+and capering, and the caparisons edged with gold; the Count himself
+a mass of diamonds, rare herons' plumes, and velvet embroidery
+(though he had not yet assumed his state uniform, being bound to
+ride so madly--Count Sandor is the name of this furious cavalier.)
+He had an ivory sceptre in his hand with which he urged on his
+horse, causing it each time to rear, and to make a tremendous bound
+forward.
+
+When his wild career was over, a procession of about sixty more
+magnates arrived, all in the same fantastic splendour, with
+handsome coloured turbans, twisted moustaches, and dark eyes. One
+rode a white horse covered with a gold net; another a dark grey,
+the bridle and housings studded with diamonds; then came a black
+charger with purple cloth caparisons. One magnate was attired from
+head to foot in sky blue, thickly embroidered with gold, a white
+turban, and a long white dolman; another in cloth of gold, with a
+purple dolman; each one more rich and gaudy than the other, and all
+riding so boldly and fearlessly, and with such defiant gallantry,
+that it was quite a pleasure to look at them. At length came the
+Hungarian Guards, with Esterhazy at their head, dazzling in gems
+and pearl embroidery. How can I describe the scene? You ought to
+have seen the procession deploy and halt in the spacious square,
+and all the jewels and bright colours, and the lofty golden mitres
+of the bishops, and the crucifixes glittering in the brilliant
+sunshine like a thousand stars!
+
+Well, to-morrow, God willing, I proceed on my journey. Now, dear
+brother, you have a letter, so pray write soon, and let me hear how
+you are getting on. So you have had an _emeute_ in Berlin? and
+that, too, an _emeute_ of tailors' apprentices? What did it all
+mean? Once more I send you my farewell from Germany, my dear
+parents, and brother and sisters. I am leaving Hungary for Italy,
+and thence I hope to write to you more frequently and more at
+leisure. Be of good cheer, dear Paul, and go forwards in a
+confident spirit; rejoice with those that rejoice, and do not
+forget the brother who is wandering about the world.
+
+     Yours, FELIX.
+
+
+     Venice, October 10th, 1830.
+
+Italy at last! and what I have all my life considered as the
+greatest possible felicity, is now begun, and I am basking in it.
+The day has been so fruitful in enjoyment, that I must, now that it
+is evening, endeavour to collect my thoughts a little to write to
+you, my dear parents, and to thank you for having bestowed such
+happiness on me. You also, my dear brother and sisters, are often
+in my thoughts. How much I wish for you, Paul, to be with me here,
+once more to enjoy your delight in our rapid travels by sea and by
+land; and I should like to prove to you, Hensel, that the
+"Assumption of the Blessed Virgin" is the most divine work ever
+produced by the hands of man. You are not here, however, so I am
+obliged to give vent to my enthusiasm in bad Italian to the
+_laquais de place_, who stands still and listens.
+
+I shall however become quite confused, if things are to go on as
+they have done on this first day, when every hour brought with it
+so much never to be forgotten, that I do not know where to find
+sufficient grasp of intellect to comprehend it all properly. I saw
+the "Assumption," then a whole gallery of paintings in the Manfrini
+Palace; then a church festival in the church where hangs Titian's
+St. Peter; afterwards St. Mark's, and in the afternoon I had a row
+on the Adriatic, and visited the public gardens, where the people
+lie on the grass and eat. I then returned to the Piazza of St.
+Mark, where in the twilight there is always an immense crowd and
+crush of people; and all this I was obliged to see to-day, because
+there is so much that is novel and interesting to be seen
+to-morrow.
+
+But I must now relate methodically how I came hither by water,
+(for, as Telemachus says, to do so by land would be no easy
+matter,) and so I begin my history at Gratz, which is certainly the
+most tiresome hole in the world, and where you yawn all day; and
+why should I have stayed a single day longer, on account of a (he)
+relation? How can a traveller with any experience possibly accept
+of a brother, who is also an ensign, in the place of a charming
+mother and sister? In short, the man did not know what to do with
+me, for which I forgive him freely, and shall not defame him to his
+mother, when I perform my promise and write to her; but he took me
+to the theatre to see the "Rehbock," the most wretched, silly,
+objectionable piece that the late Kotzebue ever wrote; and moreover
+he declared it to be very good and very amusing, and this is not to
+be forgiven, for this _Rehbock_ has such a _haut gout_ or _fumet_,
+that it could not even please a cat: but at all events I have left
+Gratz, for here I am in Venice.
+
+My old vetturino woke me up at four o'clock in the dark, and the
+horse crawled off with us both. I thought of you, dear father, at
+least a hundred times during our journey of two days. You would
+certainly have gone wild with impatience, and possibly assaulted
+the coachman also, for at every little declivity, he got slowly off
+the box, deliberately put on the drag, and crept up the smallest
+hill at a snail's pace; then he thought fit to walk beside his
+horses for a time, to stretch his legs: every possible conveyance
+passed us on the road, even when drawn by dogs or donkeys, and when
+at last, at a steep hill, the fellow put on two oxen as leaders,
+whose pace exactly corresponded with that of his horse, I had the
+greatest difficulty in not belabouring him, indeed I did so more
+than once; but he then gravely assured me that we were going at a
+capital pace, and I had no means of proving the contrary. Moreover
+he always passed the night in the most detestable pot-houses,
+starting again at four o'clock in the morning, so on arriving at
+Klagenfurt I was fairly worn out; but when in answer to my question
+as to the time the Venetian diligence set out, I received the
+answer,--in an hour hence,--I seemed to revive. I was promised a
+place, and I also got a good supper. The diligence, indeed, did not
+arrive for two hours after its time, having been detained by deep
+snow on the Soemmering, but still it came at last. Three Italians
+were inside, and chattered so that I could scarcely get to sleep,
+but my snoring fairly silenced them after a time.
+
+At last morning broke, and as we drove into Resciutta, the driver
+said, that on the other side of the bridge there, no one understood
+a word of German. I therefore took leave of my mother tongue for a
+long time to come, and we drove over the bridge. The style of the
+houses immediately beyond was entirely different. The flat roofs
+with their convex tiles, the deep windows, the high white walls,
+and lofty square towers, all betokened another land. The pale olive
+faces of the men, the innumerable beggars who besieged the
+carriage, the various small chapels, brightly and carefully painted
+on every side with flowers, the nuns, monks, and so forth, were all
+symptomatic of Italy. The monotonous character of the whole scenery
+however, and of the road we were travelling, passing through bare
+white rocks, along the banks of a river with a rough rocky bed, in
+summer creeping along in the form of a tiny brook, certainly does
+not seem characteristic of Italy. "I purposely made this passage
+rather meagre, in order that the _subject_ might be more distinctly
+heard," says Abt Vogler; and I almost think that Providence has
+done pretty much the same here, for when we had passed Ospedaletto
+the _subject_ did come out well, and a fine sight it was. I had
+imagined that the first impression of Italy would be like that of a
+sudden explosion, violent and startling; I have not hitherto found
+this to be the case. The effect produced on me has been rather that
+of a genial warmth, mildness and cheerfulness, and an indescribable
+sensation of pervading content and satisfaction.
+
+After passing Ospedaletto we entered a plain, leaving the blue
+mountains behind us; the sun shone bright and warm through the
+foliage of the vines; the road winding through orchards, in which
+the trees were connected by trailing boughs. I felt as if I were
+at home again, and knew every object, and was once more about to
+take possession of it all. The carriage too seemed to _fly_ over
+the smooth road, and towards evening we arrived at Udine, where we
+passed the night, when for the first time I ordered my supper in
+Italian, my tongue skating as if on slippery ice, first gliding
+into English, and then stumbling afresh. Moreover next morning I
+was famously cheated, but I did not in the least care, and on we
+went. It happened to be Sunday, and on every side people were
+coming along, in bright southern costumes, and flowers; the women
+with roses in their hair. Light single-horse carriages drove past,
+and men were riding to church on donkeys; at the inns, groups of
+idlers were to be seen in the most picturesque, indolent attitudes:
+among others, one man placed his arm quietly round his wife's
+waist, and swung round with her and then they went on their way;
+this sounds trivial enough, and yet it had a pretty effect.
+Venetian villas now were occasionally visible from the road, and by
+degrees became more frequent, till at length our way led past
+houses, trees, and gardens like a park. The whole country had a gay
+festive air, as if a Prince were expected to make his grand entry,
+and the vine-branches with their rich purple grapes hanging in
+festoons from the trees, made the most lovely of all festive
+wreaths. The inhabitants were all gaily dressed and adorned, and a
+few scattered cypresses only enhanced the general effect.
+
+In Treviso there was an illumination, paper lanterns suspended in
+every part of the great square, and a large gaudy transparency in
+the centre. Some most lovely girls were walking about, in their
+long white veils and scarlet petticoats. It was quite dark when we
+arrived at Mestre last night, when we got into a boat, and in a
+dead calm, gently rowed across to Venice. On our passage thither,
+where nothing but water is to be seen, and distant lights, we saw a
+small rock which stands in the midst of the sea; on this a lamp was
+burning; all the sailors took off their hats as we passed, and one
+of them said, this was the "Madonna of Tempests," which are often
+most dangerous and violent here. We then glided quietly into the
+great city, under innumerable bridges, without sound of post-horns,
+or rattling of wheels, or toll-keepers; the passage now became more
+thronged, and numbers of ships were lying near; past the theatre,
+where gondolas in long rows lie waiting for their masters, just as
+our own carriages do at home, then into the great canal, past the
+church of St. Mark, the Lions, the palace of the Doges, and the
+Bridge of Sighs. The obscurity of night only enhanced my delight on
+hearing the familiar names, and seeing the dark outlines.
+
+And so I am actually in Venice! Well, to-day I have seen the finest
+pictures in the world, and have at last personally made the
+acquaintance of a very admirable man, whom hitherto I only knew by
+name--I allude to a certain Signor Giorgione, an inimitable
+artist--and also to Pordenone, who paints the most noble
+portraits, both of himself and many of his simple scholars, in such
+a devout, faithful, and pious spirit, that you seem to converse
+with him, and to feel an affection for him. Who would not have been
+confused by all this? But if I am to speak of Titian, I must do so
+in a more reverent mood. Till now, I never knew that he was the
+felicitous artist I have this day seen him to be. That he
+thoroughly enjoyed life, in all its beauty and fulness, the picture
+in Paris proves; but he has fathomed the depths of human sorrow, as
+well as the joys of Heaven. His glorious "Entombment," and also the
+"Assumption," fully evince this. How Mary floats on the cloud,
+while a waving movement seems to pervade the whole picture; how you
+see at a glance her very breathing, her awe, and piety, and in
+short a thousand feelings,--all words seem poor and commonplace in
+comparison! The three angels too, on the right of the picture, are
+of the highest order of beauty,--pure, serene loveliness, so
+unconscious, so bright and so seraphic. But no more of this! or I
+must perforce become poetical, or indeed am so already, and this
+does not at all suit me; but I shall certainly see it every day.
+
+I must however say a few words about the "Entombment," as you have
+the engraving. Look at it, and think of me. This picture represents
+the conclusion of a great tragedy: so still, so grand, and so
+acutely painful. Magdalene is supporting Mary, fearing that she
+will die of anguish; she endeavours to lead her away, but looks
+round herself once more, evidently wishing to imprint this
+spectacle indelibly on her heart, thinking that it is for the last
+time; it surpasses everything; and then the sorrowing John, who
+sympathizes and suffers with Mary; and Joseph, who absorbed in his
+piety, and occupied with the tomb, directs and conducts the whole;
+and Christ himself, lying there so tranquil, having endured to the
+end: then the blaze of brilliant colour, and the gloomy mottled
+sky! It is a composition that speaks to my heart and fills me with
+enthusiasm, and will never leave my memory.
+
+I believe few things I have yet to see in Italy will affect me so
+deeply; but you know that I am devoid of all prejudices, and I give
+you a fresh proof of this by telling you that the "Martyrdom of St.
+Peter," from which I expected the most, pleased me the least of the
+three; it did not strike me as being a complete whole; the
+landscape, which is very fine, seemed to me to predominate
+too much. Then I was dissatisfied with the disposition in the
+picture of _two_ victims and only _one_ murderer; (for the small
+figure inthe distant background does not remedy this). I could
+not bring myself to consider it a martyrdom. But probably I am
+in error, and I intend to study it more carefully to-morrow; my
+contemplation of it, besides, was disturbed by some one strumming most
+sacrilegiously on the organ, and these sacred forms were forced to
+listen to such miserable opera _finales_! But this matters not:
+where such pictures are, I require no organist. I play the organ in
+my thoughts for myself, and feel as little irritated by such trash
+as I should be by an ignorant rabble. Titian, however, was a man
+well adapted to improve others; so I shall try to profit by him,
+and to rejoice that I am in Italy. At this moment the gondoliers
+are shouting to each other, and the lights are reflected in the
+depths of the waters; one is playing a guitar, and singing to it.
+It is a charming night. Farewell! and think of me in every happy
+hour as I do of you.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+TO PROFESSOR ZELTER.[5]
+
+     Venice, October 16th, 1830.
+
+     Dear Professor,
+
+I have entered Italy at last, and I intend this letter to be the
+commencement of a regular series of reports, which I purpose
+transmitting to you, of all that appears to me particularly worthy
+of notice. Though I only now for the first time write to you, I
+must beg you to impute the blame to the state of constant
+excitement in which I lived, both in Munich and in Vienna. It was
+needless for me to describe to you the parties in Munich, which I
+attended every evening, and where I played the piano more
+unremittingly than I ever did in my life before; one _soiree_
+succeeding another so closely, that I really had not a moment to
+collect my thoughts. Moreover, it would not have particularly
+interested you, for after all, "good society which does not offer
+materials for the smallest epigram," is equally vapid in a letter.
+I hope that you have not taken amiss my long silence, and that I
+may expect a few lines from you, even if they contain nothing save
+that you are well and cheerful.
+
+  [5] Mendelssohn's instructor in the theory of music.
+
+The aspect of the world at this moment is very bleak and stormy,
+and much that was once thought durable and unchangeable, has been
+swept away in the course of a couple of days. It is then doubly
+welcome to hear well-known voices, to convince us that there are
+certain things which cannot be annihilated or demolished, but
+remain firm and steadfast. You must know that I am at this moment
+very uneasy at not having received any news from home for some
+weeks past. I found no letters from my family, either at Trieste or
+here, so a few lines from you, written in your old fashion, would
+both cheer and gratify me, especially as it would prove that you
+think of me with the same kindness that you have always done from
+my childhood to the present time.
+
+My family have no doubt told you of the exhilarating impression
+made on me by the first sight of the plains of Italy. I hurry from
+one enjoyment to another hour by hour, and constantly see something
+novel and fresh; but immediately on my arrival I discovered some
+masterpieces of art, which I study with deep attention, and
+contemplate daily for a couple of hours at least. These are three
+pictures by Titian. The "Presentation of Mary as a Child in the
+Temple;" the "Assumption of the Virgin;" and the "Entombment of
+Christ." There is also a portrait by Giorgione, representing a girl
+with a cithern in her hand, plunged in thought, and looking forth
+from the picture in serious meditation (she is apparently about to
+begin a song, and you feel as if you must do the same): besides
+many others.
+
+To see these alone would be worth a journey to Venice; for the
+fruitfulness, genius, and devotion of the great men who painted
+these pictures, seem to emanate from them afresh as often as you
+gaze at their works, and I do not much regret that I have scarcely
+heard any music here; for I suppose I must not venture to include
+the music of the angels, in the "Assumption," encircling Mary with
+joyous shouts of welcome; one gaily beating the tambourine, a
+couple of others blowing away on strange crooked flutes, while
+another charming group are singing--or the music floating in the
+thoughts of the cithern player. I have only once heard anything on
+the organ, and miserable it was. I was gazing at Titian's
+"Martyrdom of St. Peter" in the Franciscan Church. Divine service
+was going on, and nothing inspires me with more solemn awe than
+when on the very spot for which they were originally created and
+painted, those ancient pictures in all their grandeur, gradually
+steal forth out of the darkness in which the long lapse of time has
+veiled them.
+
+As I was earnestly contemplating the enchanting evening landscape
+with its trees, and angels among the boughs, the organ commenced.
+The first sound was quite in harmony with my feelings; but the
+second, third, and in fact all the rest, quickly roused me from my
+reveries, and sent me straight home, for the man was playing in
+church and during divine service, and in the presence of
+respectable people, thus:
+
+  [Music]
+
+with the "Martyrdom of St. Peter" actually close beside him! I was
+therefore in no great hurry to make the acquaintance of the
+organist. There is no regular Opera here at this moment, and the
+gondoliers no longer sing, Tasso's stanzas; moreover, what I have
+hitherto seen of modern Venetian art, consists of poems framed and
+glazed on the subject of Titian's pictures, or Rinaldo and Armida,
+by a new Venetian painter, or a St. Cecilia by a ditto, besides
+various specimens of architecture in no style at all; as all these
+are totally insignificant, I cling to the ancient masters, and
+study how they worked. Often, after doing so, I feel a musical
+inspiration, and since I came here I have been busily engaged in
+composition.
+
+Before I left Vienna, a friend of mine made me a present of
+Luther's Hymns, and on reading them over I was again so much struck
+by their power, that I intend to compose music for several next
+winter. I have nearly completed here the choral "Aus tiefer Noth,"
+for four voices _a capella_; and the Christmas hymn, "Vom Himmel
+hoch," is already in my head. I wish also to set the following
+hymns to music: "Ach Gott, vom Himmel sieh darein," "Wir glauben
+all' an einen Gott," "Verleih uns Frieden," "Mitten wir im Leben
+sind," and finally "Ein' feste Burg." The latter, however, it is my
+intention to compose for a choir and orchestra. Pray write to me
+about this project of mine, and say whether you approve of my
+retaining the ancient melodies in them all, but not adhering to
+them too strictly: for instance, if I were to take the first verse
+of "Vom Himmel hoch" as a separate grand chorus. Besides this, I am
+hard at work at an orchestral overture, and if an opportunity for
+an opera offered it would be most welcome.
+
+I finished two pieces of sacred music in Vienna--a choral in three
+movements for chorus and orchestra ("O! Haupt voll Blut und
+Wunden") and an Ave Maria for a choir of eight voices, _a capella_.
+The people I associated with there were so dissipated and
+frivolous, that I became quite spiritually-minded, and conducted
+myself like a divine among them. Moreover, not one of the best
+pianoforte players there, male or female, ever played a note of
+Beethoven, and when I hinted that he and Mozart were not to be
+despised, they said, "So you are an admirer of classical
+music?"--"Yes," said I.
+
+To-morrow I intend to go to Bologna to have a glance at the St.
+Cecilia, and then proceed by Florence to Rome, where I hope (D. V.)
+to arrive eight or ten days hence. I will then write to you more
+satisfactorily. I only wished to make a beginning to-day, and to
+beg you not to forget me, and kindly to accept my heartfelt wishes
+for your health and happiness. Your faithful
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Florence, October 23rd, 1830.
+
+Here am I in Florence, the air warm and the sky bright; everything
+is beautiful and glorious, "wo blieb die Erde," as Goethe says. I
+have now received your letter of the 3rd, by which I see that you
+are all well, that my anxiety was needless, that you are all going
+on as usual, and thinking of me; so I feel happy again, and can
+now see everything, and enjoy everything, and am able to write to
+you; in short, my mind is at rest on the main point. I made my
+journey here amid a thousand doubts and fears, quite uncertain
+whether to go direct to Rome, because I did not expect any letters
+at Florence. Fortunately, however, I decided on coming here, and
+now it is of no consequence how the misunderstanding arose, that
+caused me to wait for letters in Venice, while you had written to
+Florence; all I can promise is to endeavour in future to be less
+over-anxious. My driver pointed out a spot between the hills, on
+which lay a blue mist, and said "_Ecco Firenze!_" I eagerly looked
+towards the place, and saw the round dome looming out of the mist
+before me, and the spacious wide valley in which the city is
+situated. My love of travel revived when at last Florence appeared.
+I looked at some willow-trees (as I thought) beside the road, when
+the driver said, "Buon olio," and then I saw that they were hanging
+full of olives.
+
+My driver, as a genus, is undoubtedly a most villanous knave,
+thief, and impostor; he has cheated me and half-starved me, and yet
+I think him almost amiable from his enthusiastic animal nature.
+About an hour before we arrived in Florence he said that the
+beautiful scenery was now about to commence; and true it is that
+the fair land of Italy does first begin then. There are villas on
+every height, and decorated old walls, with sloping terraces of
+roses and aloes, flowers and grapes and olive leaves, the sharp
+points of cypresses, and the flat tops of pines, all sharply
+defined against the sky; then handsome square faces, busy life on
+the roads on every side, and at a distance in the valley, the blue
+city.
+
+So I drove confidently into Florence in my little open carriage,
+and though I looked shabby and dusty, like one coming from the
+Apennines, I cared little for that. I passed recklessly through all
+the smart equipages from which the most refined English ladies
+looked at me; while I thought it may one day actually come to pass
+that you who are now looking down on the _roturier_, may shake
+hands with him, the only difference being a little clean linen and
+so forth. By the time that we came to the _battisterio_, I no
+longer felt diffident, but gave orders to drive to the Post, and
+then I was really happy, for I received three letters,--yours of
+the 22nd and the 3rd, and my father's also. I was now quite
+delighted, and as we drove along beside the Arno, to Schneider's
+celebrated hotel, the world seemed once more a very pleasant world.
+
+
+     October 24th.
+
+The Apennines are really not so beautiful as I had imagined; for
+the name always suggested to me richly wooded, picturesque hills,
+covered with vegetation, whereas they are merely a long chain of
+melancholy bleak hills; and the little verdure there is, not
+gratifying to the eye. There are no dwellings to be seen, no merry
+brooks or rills; only an occasional stream, its broad bed dried up,
+or a little water-channel. Add to this the shameful roguery of the
+inhabitants: really, at last, I became quite confused and
+perplexed, by their incessant cheating, and could scarcely discover
+for what object they were lying. I therefore, once for all,
+invariably protested against every demand they made, and declared
+that I would not pay at all if they asked more than I chose to
+give; so in this way I managed very tolerably.
+
+Last night I was again in grand quarters: I had made an agreement
+with the vetturino for board and lodging, and all I required. The
+natural consequence was, that the fellow took me to the most
+detestable little inns, and actually starved me. So late yesterday
+we arrived at a solitary pothouse, the filth of which no pen can
+describe. The stair was strewed with heaps of dead leaves and
+firewood; moreover the cold was intense, and they invited me to
+warm myself in the kitchen, which I agreed to do. A bench was
+placed for me beside the fire; a whole troop of peasants were
+standing about, also warming themselves. I looked quite regal from
+my bench on the hearth among this rough set of fellows, who, in
+their broad-leaved hats, lit up by the fire, and babbling in their
+incomprehensible dialect, looked vastly suspicious characters. I
+made them prepare my soup under my own eyes, giving moreover good
+advice on the subject; but, after all, it was not eatable.
+
+I entered into conversation with my subjects from my throne on the
+hearth, and they pointed out to me a little hill in the distance
+incessantly vomiting forth flames, which had a singular effect in
+the dark ("Raticosa" is the name of the hill), and then I was
+conducted to my bed-room. The landlord took hold of the sackcloth
+sheets, and said, "Very fine linen!" but I slept as sound as a
+bear, and before falling asleep I said to myself, Now you are in
+the Apennines: and next morning, after getting no breakfast, my
+vetturino civilly asked me how I liked my night's entertainment.
+The fellow talked a great deal of nonsense about politics, and the
+present state of France, abused his horse in German for being born
+in Switzerland, and spoke French to the beggars who swarmed round
+the cabriolet, while I corrected many a fault in his pronunciation.
+
+
+     October 25th.
+
+I now intend to go once more to the Tribune, to be inspired with
+feelings of reverence. There is a particular place where I like to
+sit, as the little Venus de' Medici is directly opposite, and
+above, that of Titian, and by turning rather to the left, I have a
+view of the Madonna del Cardello, a favourite picture of mine, and
+which invariably reminds me of _la belle Jardiniere_, and seems to
+me a kindred creation; and also the Fornarina, which made no great
+impression on me from the first, for I know the engraving, which is
+very faithful, and the face has, I think, a most disagreeable and
+even ordinary expression. In gazing thus, however, at the two
+Venuses, their loveliness inspires a feeling of piety; it is as if
+the two spirits who could produce such creations, were flying
+through the hall and grasping you as they passed.
+
+Titian must have been a marvellous man, and enjoyed his life in his
+works; still the fair Medici is not to be slighted, and then the
+divine Niobe with all her children: while we gaze at her, we can
+find no words. I have not yet been to the Pitti Palace, which
+possesses the Saint Ezekiel, and the Madonna della Sedia, of
+Raphael. I saw the gardens of the palace yesterday in sunshine;
+they are superb, and the thick solid stems of the myrtles and
+laurels, and the innumerable cypresses, made a strange exotic
+impression on me; but when I declare that I consider beeches,
+limes, oaks, and firs, ten times more beautiful and picturesque, I
+think I hear Hensel exclaim, "Oh, the northern bear!"
+
+
+     October 30th.
+
+After the soft rain of yesterday, the air is so mild and genial,
+that I am at this moment seated at the open window writing to you;
+and indeed it is pleasant enough to see the people going about the
+streets, offering the prettiest baskets of flowers, fresh violets,
+roses, and pinks. Two days ago, being satiated with all pictures,
+statues, vases, and museums, I resolved to take a long walk till
+sunset; so after buying a bunch of narcissuses and heliotropes, I
+went up the hill through the vineyards. It was one of the most
+delightful walks I ever remember; every one must feel revived and
+refreshed at the sight of nature in such a garb as this, and a
+thousand happy thoughts passed through my mind.
+
+First of all, I went to a villa called Bello Sguardo, whence the
+whole of Florence and its spacious valley are to be seen, and I
+thoroughly enjoyed the view of the superb city and its massive
+towers and palaces. But most of all I admired the countless villas,
+covering every hill and every acclivity as far as the eye can
+reach, as if the city extended beyond the mountains into the far
+distance. And when I took up a telescope and looked down on the
+valley through the blue mists, every portion of it seemed thickly
+dotted with bright objects and white villas, while such a large
+circle of dwellings inspired me with a feeling of home and comfort.
+
+I proceeded far over the hills to the highest point I could see, on
+which stood an ancient tower, and when I reached it I found all the
+people throughout the building busily engaged in making wine,
+drying grapes, and repairing casks. It proved to be Galileo's
+tower, from which he used to make his discoveries and observations;
+from here also there was a very extensive view, and the girl who
+took me to the roof of the tower related a number of stories in her
+peculiar dialect, which I scarcely understood at all; but she
+afterwards presented me with some of her sweet dried grapes, which
+I ate with great gusto. And so I went on to another tower I saw at
+a distance, but could not manage to find my way; and examining my
+map as I went along, I stumbled on a traveller busily searching
+his map also; the only difference between us being, that he was an
+old Frenchman with green spectacles, who addressed me thus, "E
+questo S. Miniato al Monte, Signor?" With admirable decision I
+replied, "Si, Signor;" and it turned out that I was right. A. F----
+immediately recurred to my memory, as she had advised me to see
+this monastery, which is indeed wonderfully fine.
+
+When I tell you I went from there to the Boboli Gardens, where I
+saw the sun set, and at night enjoyed the brightest moonlight, you
+may imagine how much I was invigorated by my ramble. I will write
+to you about the pictures here some other time, for to-day it is
+too late, as I have still to take leave of the Pitti Palace and the
+great Gallery, and to gaze once more at my Venus, who is not indeed
+mentioned before ladies, but whose beauty is truly divine. The
+courier goes at five o'clock, and God willing, I shall be in Rome
+the day after to-morrow. From thence you shall hear again.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, November 2nd, 1830.
+
+... I refrain from writing longer in this melancholy strain; for
+just as your letter, after a lapse of fourteen days, has saddened
+me, my answer will have the same effect on you fourteen days hence.
+You would write to me in the same style, and so it might go on for
+ever. As four weeks must pass before I can receive any answer, I
+feel that I ought to restrict myself to relating events past and
+present, and not dwell much on the particular frame of my mind at
+the moment, which is indeed usually sufficiently manifest in the
+narrative given, and the various occurrences described.
+
+I have scarcely yet arrived at the conviction that I am now
+actually in Rome; and when yesterday, just as day was breaking, I
+drove across a bridge with statues, under a deep blue sky, and in
+dazzling white moonlight, and the courier said, "Ponte Molle," it
+all seemed to me like a dream, and at the same moment I saw before
+me my sick-bed in London a year ago, and my rough Scotch journey,
+and Munich, and Vienna, and the pines on these hills. The journey
+from Florence to Rome has very few attractions. Siena, which is, I
+understand worth seeing, we passed through during the night. It was
+unpleasant to see a regular Government courier compelled to take a
+military escort, which was doubled at night; still it must be
+absolutely necessary, as he is obliged to pay for it. In these days
+this ought not to be the case. In the meantime everything
+progresses, and there are moments when the bound forwards is
+actually visible.
+
+I was still in Florence, waiting for the departure of the post,
+reading a French newspaper, when at the very moment the bell
+sounded, I read among the advertisements, "Vie de Siebenkaes, par
+Jean Paul." Many reflections occurred to me as to so many men of
+renown gradually vanishing from our sight, and our great geniuses
+having such homage paid to them after their death, and yet during
+their _life_, Lafontaine's novels and French vaudevilles alone make
+any impression on their fellow-countrymen; while _we_ only strive
+to appreciate the very refuse of the French, and neglect
+Beaumarchais and Rousseau. However, it matters little after all.
+
+The first thing connected with music that I met with here, was the
+"Tod Jesu," by Graun, which an Abbate here, Fortunato Santini, has
+translated faithfully and admirably into Italian. It appears that
+the music of this heretic has been sent along with the translation
+to Naples, where it is to be produced this winter at a great
+festival, and I hear that the musical world there are quite
+enchanted with it, and are studying the work with infinite love and
+enthusiasm. I understand that the Abbate has been long impatiently
+expecting me, because he hopes to obtain considerable information
+from me about German music, and thinks I may also have the score of
+Bach's "Passion." Thus music progresses onwards, as sure to pierce
+through as the sun; if mists still prevail, it is merely a sign
+that the spring-time has not yet come, but come again it must and
+will! Farewell! and from my heart I say,--May a merciful Providence
+preserve you all in health and happiness!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, November 8th, 1830.
+
+I must now write to you of my first week in Rome; how I have
+arranged my time, how I look forward to the winter, and what
+impression the glorious objects by which I am surrounded have made
+on me; but this is no easy task. I feel as if I were entirely
+changed since I came here. Formerly when I wished to check my haste
+and impatience to press forward, and to continue my journey more
+rapidly, I attributed this eagerness merely to the force of habit,
+but I am now fully persuaded that it arose entirely from my anxiety
+to reach this goal. Now that I have at last attained it my mood is
+so tranquil and joyous, and yet so earnest, that I shall not
+attempt to describe it to you. What it is that thus works on me I
+cannot exactly define; for the awe-inspiring Coliseum, and the
+brilliant Vatican, and the genial air of spring, all contribute to
+make me feel thus, and so do the kindly people, my comfortable
+apartments, and everything else. At all events I am different from
+what I was. I am better in health and happier than I have been for
+a long time, and take delight in my work, and feel such an
+inclination for it, that I expect to accomplish much more than I
+anticipated; indeed, I have already done a good deal. If it pleases
+Providence to grant me a continuation of this happy mood, I look
+forward to the most delightful and productive winter.
+
+Picture to yourself a small house, with two windows in front, in
+the Piazza di Spagna, No. 5 which all day long enjoys the warm
+sun, and an apartment on the first floor, where there is a good
+Viennese grand piano: on the table are some portraits of
+Palestrina, Allegri, etc., along with the scores of their works,
+and a Latin psalm-book, from which I am to compose the _Non
+Nobis_;--such is my present abode. The Capitol was too far away,
+besides I had a great dread of the cold air, which here I have no
+cause to guard against; for when I look out of my window in the
+morning across the square, I see every object sharply defined in
+the sunshine against the blue sky. My landlord was formerly a
+captain in the French army, and his daughter has the most splendid
+contralto voice I ever heard. Above me lives a Prussian captain,
+with whom I talk politics,--in short, the situation is excellent.
+
+When I come into the room early in the morning, and see the sun
+shining so brightly on the breakfast-table (you see I am marred as
+a poet), I feel so cheerful and comfortable, for it is now far on
+in the autumn, and who in our country at this season looks for
+warmth, or a bright sky, or grapes and flowers? After breakfast I
+begin my work, and play, and sing, and compose till near noon. Then
+Rome in all her vast dimensions lies before me like an interesting
+problem to enjoy; but I go deliberately to work, daily selecting
+some different object appertaining to history. One day I visit the
+ruins of the ancient city; another I go to the Borghese gallery, or
+to the Capitol, or St. Peter's, or the Vatican. Each day is thus
+made memorable, and as I take my time, each object becomes firmly
+and indelibly impressed on me. When I am occupied in the forenoon I
+am willing to leave off, and should like to continue my writing,
+but I say to myself that I must see the Vatican, and when I am
+actually there, I equally dislike leaving it; thus each of my
+occupations causes me the most genuine pleasure, and one enjoyment
+follows another.
+
+Just as Venice, with her past, reminded me of a vast monument: her
+crumbling modern palaces, and the perpetual remembrance of former
+splendour, causing sad and discordant sensations; so does the past
+of Rome suggest the impersonation of history; her monuments elevate
+the soul, inspiring solemn yet serene feelings, and it is a thought
+fraught with exultation that man is capable of producing creations,
+which, after the lapse of a thousand years, still renovate and
+animate others. When I have fairly imprinted an object like this on
+my mind, and each day a fresh one, twilight has usually arrived and
+the day is over.
+
+I then visit my friends and acquaintances, when we mutually
+communicate what each has done, which means _enjoyed_ here, and are
+reciprocally pleased. I have been most evenings at Bendemann's and
+Huebner's, where German artists usually assemble, and I sometimes go
+to Schadow's. The Abbate Santini is a valuable acquaintance for me,
+as he has a very complete library of ancient Italian music, and he
+kindly gives or lends me anything I like, for no one can be more
+obliging. At night he makes either Ahlborn or me accompany him
+home, as an Abbate being seen alone at night in the streets would
+bring him into evil repute. That such youngsters as Ahlborn and I
+should act as duennas to a priest of sixty is diverting enough.
+
+The Duchess of ---- gave me a list of old music which she was
+anxious to procure copies of if possible. Santini's collection
+contains all this, and I am much obliged to him for having
+furnished me with copies, for I am now looking through them all,
+and becoming acquainted with them. I beg you will send me for him,
+as a token of my gratitude, the six cantatas of Sebastian Bach,
+published by Marx at Simrock's, or some of his pieces for the
+organ. I should however prefer the cantatas: he already has the
+"Magnificat" and the Motets, and others. He has translated the
+"Singet dem Herrn ein neues Lied," and intends it to be executed at
+Naples, for which he deserves a reward. I am writing to Zelter all
+particulars about the Papal singers, whom I have heard three
+times,--in the Quirinal, in the Monte Cavallo, and once in San
+Carlo.
+
+I look forward with delight to seeing Bunsen, we shall have much to
+discuss together, and I have likewise an idea that he has got some
+work for me; if I can conscientiously undertake it, I will do so
+gladly, and render it all the justice in my power. Among my home
+pleasures I include that of reading for the first time Goethe's
+Journey to Italy; and I must avow that it is a source of great
+satisfaction to me to find that he arrived in Rome the very same
+day that I did; that he also went first to the Quirinal, and heard
+a Requiem there; that he was seized with the same fit of impatience
+in Florence and Bologna; and felt the same tranquil, or as he calls
+it, solid spirit here: indeed, everything that he describes, I
+exactly experience myself, so I am pleased.
+
+He speaks in detail of a large picture of Titian's in the Vatican,
+and declares that its meaning is not to be devised; only a number
+of figures standing beautifully grouped together. I fancy, however,
+that I have discovered a very deep sense in it, and I believe that
+whoever finds the most beauties in Titian, is sure to be most in
+the right, for he was a glorious man. Though he has not had the
+opportunity of displaying and diffusing his genius here, as Raphael
+has done in the Vatican, still I can never forget his three
+pictures in Venice, and to these I may add the one in the Vatican,
+which I saw for the first time this morning. If any one could come
+into the world with full consciousness, every object around would
+smile on him with the same vivid life and animation, that these
+pictures do on us. "The School of Athens," and the "Disputa," and
+the "Peter," stand before us precisely as they were created; and
+then the entrance through splendid open arches, whence you can see
+the Piazza of St. Peter's, and Rome, and the blue Alban hills; and
+above our heads figures from the Old Testament, and a thousand
+bright little angels, and arabesques of fruit, and garlands of
+flowers; and then on to the gallery!
+
+You may well be proud, dear Hensel, for your copy of the
+"Transfiguration" is superb! The pleasing emotion which seizes me,
+when I see for the first time some immortal work, and the pervading
+idea and chief impression it inspires, I did not experience on this
+occasion from the original, but from _your_ copy. The first effect
+of this picture to-day, was precisely the same that yours had
+previously made on me; and it was not till after considerable
+research and contemplation that I succeeded in finding out anything
+new to me. On the other hand, the Madonna di Foligno dawned on me
+in the whole splendour of her loveliness. I have passed a happy
+morning in the midst of all these glorious works; as yet I have not
+visited the statues, but have reserved my first impression of them
+for another day.
+
+
+     November 9th, morning.
+
+Thus every morning brings me fresh anticipations, and every day
+fulfils them. The sun is again shining on my breakfast-table and I
+am now going to my daily work. I will send you, dear Fanny, by the
+first opportunity, what I composed in Vienna, and anything else
+that may be finished, and my sketch-book to Rebecca; but I am far
+from being pleased with it this time, so I intend to study
+attentively the sketches of the landscape painters here, in order
+to acquire if possible a new manner. I tried to produce one of my
+own, but it would not do!
+
+To-day I am going to the Lateran, and the ruins of ancient Rome;
+and in the evening to a kind English family, whose acquaintance I
+made here. Pray send me a good many letters of introduction. I am
+exceedingly anxious to know numbers of people, especially Italians.
+So I live on happily, and think of you in every pleasant moment.
+May you also be happy, and rejoice with me at the prospect which
+lies before me here!
+
+        FELIX M. B.
+
+
+     Rome, November 16th, 1830.
+
+     Dear Fanny,
+
+No post left this the day before yesterday, and I could not talk to
+you, so when I remembered that my letter must necessarily remain
+two days before it left Rome, I felt it impossible to write; but I
+thought of you times without number, and wished you every
+happiness, and congratulated myself that you were born a certain
+number of years ago. It is, indeed, cheering to think what
+charming, rational beings, are to be found in the world; and you
+are certainly one of these. Continue cheerful, bright, and well,
+and make no great change in yourself. I don't think you require to
+be much better; may good fortune ever abide with you!
+
+And now I think these are all my birthday good wishes; for really
+it is not fair to expect that a man of my _calibre_ should wish you
+also a fresh stock of musical ideas; besides you are very
+unreasonable in complaining of any deficiency in that respect. _Per
+Bacco!_ if you had the inclination, you certainly have sufficient
+genius to compose, and if you have no desire to do so, why grumble
+so much? If I had a baby to nurse, I certainly should not write any
+scores, and as I have to compose _Non Nobis_, I cannot unluckily
+carry my nephew about in my arms. But to speak seriously, your
+child is scarcely six months old yet, and you can think of anything
+but Sebastian?[6] (not Bach!) Be thankful that you have him. Music
+only retreats when there is no longer a place for her, and I am not
+surprised that you are not an unnatural mother. However, you have
+my best wishes on your birthday, for all that your heart desires;
+so I may as well wish you half-a-dozen melodies into the bargain;
+not that this will be of much use.
+
+  [6] The name of the child.
+
+In Rome here, we celebrated the 14th of November by the sky
+shining, in blue and festive array, and breathing on us warm genial
+air. So I went on pleasantly towards the Capitol and into church,
+where I heard a miserable sermon from ----, who is no doubt a very
+good man, but to my mind has a most morose style of preaching; and
+any one who could irritate me on _such_ a day, in the Capitol, and
+in church, must have an especial talent for so doing. I afterwards
+went to call on Bunsen, who had just arrived. He and his wife
+received me most kindly, and we conversed on much that was
+interesting, including politics and regrets for your absence.
+_Apropos_, my favourite work that I am now studying is Goethe's
+'Lili's Park,' especially three portions: "Kehr' ich mich um, und
+brumm:" then, "Eh la menotte;" and best of all, "Die ganze Luft ist
+warm, ist bluethevoll," where decidedly clarionets must be
+introduced. I mean to make it the subject of a scherzo for a
+symphony.
+
+Yesterday, at dinner at Bunsen's, we had among others a German
+musician. Oh, heavens! I wish I were a Frenchman! The man said to
+me, "Music must be _handled_ every day." "Why?" replied I, which
+rather embarrassed him. He also spoke of earnest purpose; and said
+that Spohr had no earnest purpose, but that he had distinctly
+discerned gleams of an earnest purpose in my _Tu es Petrus_. The
+fellow, however, has a small property at Frascati, and is about to
+_lay down_ the profession of music. We have not got so far as that
+yet!
+
+After dinner came Catel, Eggers, Senf, Wolf, then a painter, and
+then two more, and others. I played the piano, and they asked for
+pieces by Sebastian Bach, so I played numbers of his compositions,
+which were much admired. I also explained clearly to them the mode
+in which the "Passion" is executed; for they seemed scarcely to
+believe it. Bunsen possesses it, arranged for the piano; he showed
+it to the Papal singers, and they said before witnesses, that such
+music could not possibly be executed by human voices. I think the
+contrary. It seems, however, that Trautwein is about to publish
+the score of the Passion of St. John. I suppose I must order a set
+of studs for Paris, _a la Back_.
+
+To-day Bunsen is to take me to Baini's, whom he has not seen for a
+year as he never goes out except to hear confessions. I am glad to
+know him, and shall endeavour to improve my intimacy with him, for
+he can solve many an enigma for me. Old Santini continues as kind
+as ever. When we are together in society, if I praise any
+particular piece or am not acquainted with it, next morning he is
+sure to knock gently at my door, and to bring me the piece in
+question carefully wrapped up in a blue pocket-handkerchief; I, in
+return, accompany him home every evening; and we have a great
+regard for each other. He also brought me his _Te Deum_, written in
+eight parts, requesting me to correct some of the modulations, as G
+major predominates too much; so I mean to try if I cannot introduce
+some A minor or E minor.
+
+I am now very anxious to become acquainted with a good many
+Italians. I visit at the house of a certain Maestro di San Giovanni
+Laterano, whose daughters are musical, but not pretty, so this does
+not count for much. If therefore you can send me letters, pray do
+so. I work in the morning; at noon I see and admire, and thus the
+day glides away till sunset: but I should like in the evening to
+associate with the Roman world. My kind English friends have
+arrived from Venice; Lord Harrowby and his family are to pass the
+winter here. Schadow, Bendeman, Bunsen, Tippelskirch, all receive
+every evening; in short I have no lack of acquaintances, but I
+should like to know some Italians also.
+
+The present, dear Fanny, that I have prepared for your birthday, is
+a psalm, for chorus and orchestra, _Non nobis, Domine_. You know
+the melody well; there is an air in it which has a good ending, and
+the last chorus will I hope please you. I hear that next week I
+shall have an opportunity of sending it to you, along with a
+quantity of new music. I intend now to finish my overture, and then
+(D.V.) to proceed with my symphony. A pianoforte concerto, too,
+that I wish to write for Paris, begins to float in my head. If
+Providence kindly bestows on me success and bright days, I hope we
+shall enjoy them together. Farewell! May you be happy!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, November 22nd, 1830.
+
+     My dear Brother and Sisters,
+
+You know how much I dislike, at a distance of two hundred miles,
+and fourteen days' journey from you, to offer good advice. I mean
+to do so, however, for once. Let me tell you therefore of a mistake
+in your conduct, and in truth the same that I once made myself. I
+do assure you that never in my life have I known my father write in
+so irritable a strain as since I came to Rome, and so I wish to
+ask you if you cannot devise some domestic recipe to cheer him a
+little? I mean by forbearance and yielding to his wishes, and in
+this manner, by allowing my father's view of any subject to
+predominate over your own; then, not to speak at all on topics that
+irritate him; and instead of saying shameful, say unpleasant; or
+instead of superb, very fair. This method has often a wonderfully
+good effect; and I put it, with all submission to yourselves,
+whether it might not be equally successful in this case? For, with
+the exception of the great events of the world, ill-humour often
+seems to me to proceed from the same cause that my father's did
+when I chose to pursue my own path in my musical studies. He was
+then in a constant state of irritation, incessantly abusing
+Beethoven and all visionaries; and this often vexed me very much,
+and made me sometimes very unamiable. At that very time something
+new came out, which put my father out of sorts, and made him I
+believe not a little uneasy. So long therefore as I persisted in
+extolling and exalting my Beethoven, the evil became daily worse;
+and one day, if I remember rightly, I was even sent out of the
+room. At last, however, it occurred to me that I might speak a
+great deal of truth, and yet avoid the particular truth obnoxious
+to my father; so the aspect of affairs speedily began to improve,
+and soon all went well.
+
+Perhaps you may have in some degree forgotten that you ought now
+and then to be forbearing, and not aggressive. My father considers
+himself both much older and more irritable than, thank God, he
+really is; but it is our duty always to submit our opinion to his,
+even if the truth be as much on our side, as it often is on his,
+when opposed to us. Strive, then, to praise what he likes, and do
+not attack what is implanted in his heart, more especially ancient
+established ideas. Do not commend what is new till it has made some
+progress in the world, and acquired a name, for till then it is a
+mere matter of taste. Try to draw my father into your circle, and
+be playful and kind to him. In short, try to smooth and to equalize
+things; and remember that I, who am now an experienced man of the
+world, never yet knew any family, taking into due consideration all
+defects and failings, who have hitherto lived so happily together
+as ours.
+
+Do not send me any answer to this, for you will not receive it for
+a month, and by that time no doubt some fresh topic will have
+arisen; besides, if I have spoken nonsense, I do not wish to be
+scolded by you; and if I have spoken properly, I hope you will
+follow my good advice.
+
+
+     November 23rd.
+
+Just as I was going to set to work at the "Hebrides," arrived Herr
+B----, a musical professor from Magdeburg. He played me over a
+whole book of songs, and an Ave Maria, and begged to have the
+benefit of my opinion. I seemed in the position of a juvenile
+Nestor, and made him some insipid speeches, but this caused me the
+loss of a morning in Rome, which is a pity. The Choral, "Mitten wir
+im Leben sind," is finished, and is certainly one of the best
+sacred pieces that I have yet composed. After I have completed the
+Hebrides, I think of arranging Haendel's Solomon for future
+performance, with proper curtailments, etc. I then purpose writing
+the Christmas music of "Vom Himmel hoch," and the symphony in A
+minor; perhaps also some pieces for the piano, and a concerto,
+etc., just as they come into my head.
+
+I own I do sadly miss some friend to whom I could communicate my
+new works, and who could examine the score along with me, and play
+a bass or a flute; whereas now when a piece is finished I must lay
+it aside in my desk without its giving pleasure to any one. London
+spoiled me in this respect. I can never again expect to meet all
+together such friends as I had there. Here I can only say the half
+of what I think, and leave the best half unspoken; whereas there it
+was not necessary to say more than the half, because the other half
+was a mere matter of course, and already understood. Still, this is
+a most delightful place.
+
+We young people went lately to Albano, and set off in the most
+lovely weather. The road to Frascati passed under the great
+aqueduct, its dark brown outlines standing out sharply defined
+against the clear blue sky; thence we proceeded to the monastery at
+Grotta Ferrata, where there are some beautiful frescoes by
+Domenichino; then to Marino, very picturesquely situated on a
+hill, and proceeding along the margin of the lake we reached Castel
+Gandolfo. The scenery, like my first impression of Italy, is by no
+means so striking or so wonderfully beautiful as is generally
+supposed, but most pleasing and gratifying to the eye, and the
+outlines undulating and picturesque, forming a perfect whole, with
+its _entourage_ and distribution of light.
+
+Here I must deliver a eulogy on monks; they finish a picture at
+once, giving it tone and colour, with their wide loose gowns, their
+pious meditative, gait, and their dark aspect. A beautiful shady
+avenue of evergreen oaks runs along the lake from Castel Gandolfo
+to Albano, where monks of every order are swarming, animating the
+scenery and yet marking its solitude. Near the city a couple of
+begging monks were walking together; further on, a whole troop of
+young Jesuits; then we saw an elegant young priest in a thicket
+reading; beyond this two more were standing in the wood with their
+guns, watching for birds. Then we came to a monastery, encircled by
+a number of small chapels. At last all was solitude; but at that
+moment appeared a dirty, stupid-looking Capuchin, laden with huge
+nosegays, which he placed before the various shrines, kneeling down
+in front of them before proceeding to decorate them.
+
+As we passed on, we met two old prelates engaged in eager
+conversation. The bell for vespers was ringing in the monastery of
+Albano, and even on the summit of the highest hill stands a
+Passionist convent, where they are only permitted to speak for a
+single hour daily, and occupy themselves solely in reading the
+history of the passion of Christ. In Albano, among girls with
+pitchers on their heads, vendors of flowers and vegetables, and all
+the crowd and tumult, we saw a coal-black dumb monk, returning to
+Monte Cavo, who formed a singular contrast to the rest of the
+scene. They seem to have taken entire possession of all this
+splendid country, and form a strange melancholy ground-tone for all
+that is lively, gay, and free, and the ever-living cheerfulness
+bestowed by nature. It is as if men, on that very account, required
+a counterpoise. This is not however my case, and I need no contrast
+to enable me to enjoy what I see.
+
+I am often with Bunsen, and as he likes to turn the conversation on
+the subject of his Liturgy and its musical portions, which I
+consider very deficient, I am perfectly plain-spoken, and give him
+a straight-forward opinion; and I believe this is the only way to
+establish a mutual understanding. We have had several long, serious
+discussions, and I hope we shall eventually know each other better.
+Yesterday Palestrina's music was performed at Bunsen's house (as on
+every Monday), and then for the first time I played before the
+Roman musicians _in corpore_. I am quite aware of the necessity in
+every foreign city of playing so as to make myself understood by
+the audience. This makes me usually feel rather embarrassed, and
+such was the case with me yesterday. After the Papal singers
+finished Palestrina's music, it was my turn to play something. A
+brilliant piece would have been unsuitable, and there had been more
+than enough of serious music; I therefore begged Astolfi, the
+Director, to give me a theme, so he lightly touched the notes with
+one finger thus:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+smiling as he did so. The black-frocked Abbati pressed round me and
+seemed highly delighted. I observed this, and it inspirited me so
+much that towards the end I succeeded famously; they clapped their
+hands like mad, and Bunsen declared that I had astounded the
+clergy; in short, the affair went off well. There is no encouraging
+prospect of any public performance here, so society is the only
+resource, which is fishing in troubled waters.
+
+         Yours, FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, November 30th, 1830.
+
+To come home from Bunsen's by moonlight, with your letter in my
+pocket, and then to read it through leisurely at night,--this is a
+degree of pleasure I wish many may enjoy. In all probability I
+shall stay here the whole winter, and not go to Naples till April.
+It is so delightful to look round on every side, and to appreciate
+it all properly. There is much that must be thought over, in order
+to receive a due impression from it. I have also within myself so
+much work requiring both quiet and industry, that I feel anything
+like haste would be utter destruction; and though I adhere
+faithfully to my system, to receive each day only one fresh image
+into my mind, still I am sometimes compelled even then to give
+myself a day of rest, that I may not become confused. I write you a
+short letter to-day, because I must for the present adhere to my
+work; and yet I cannot refrain from culling all the beauty that
+lies at my feet. The weather, too, is _brutto_ and cold, so that I
+am not in a very communicative mood. The Pope is dying, or possibly
+dead by this time. "We shall soon get a new one," say the Italians,
+coolly. His death will not affect the Carnival, nor the church
+festivals, with their pomps and processions, and fine music; and as
+there will be in addition to these, solemn requiems, and the
+lying-in-state at St. Peter's, they care little about it, provided
+it does not occur in February.
+
+I am delighted to hear that Mantius sings my songs, and likes them.
+Give him my kind regards, and ask him why he does not perform his
+promise, and write to me. I have written to him repeatedly in the
+shape of music. In the "Ave Maria," and in the choral "Aus tiefer
+Noth," some passages are composed expressly for him, and he will
+sing them charmingly. In the "Ave," which is a salutation, a tenor
+solo takes the lead of the choir (I thought of a disciple all the
+time). As the piece is in A major, and goes rather high at the
+words _Benedicta tu_, he must prepare his high A; it will vibrate
+well. Ask him to sing you a song I sent to Devrient from Venice,
+"Von schlechtem Lebenswandel." It is expressive of mingled joy and
+despair; no doubt he will sing it well. Show it to no one, but
+confine it solely to forty eyes. Ritz[7] too never writes, and yet
+I am constantly longing for his violin and his depth of feeling
+when he plays, which all recurs to my mind when I see his welcome
+writing. I am now working daily at the "Hebrides," and will send it
+to Ritz as soon as it is finished. It is quite a piece to suit
+him--so very singular.
+
+  [7] The violin player, Edward Ritz, an intimate friend of
+  Mendelssohn's.
+
+Next time I write I will tell you more of myself. I work hard, and
+lead a pleasant, happy life; my mirror is stuck full of Italian,
+German, and English visiting-cards, and I spend every evening with
+one of my acquaintances. There is a truly Babylonian confusion of
+tongues in my head, for English, Italian, German and French are all
+mixed up together in it. Two days ago I again extemporized before
+the Papal singers. The fellows had contrived to get hold of the
+most strange, quaint theme for me, wishing to put my powers to the
+test. They call me, however, _l'insuperabile professorone_, and are
+particularly kind and friendly. I much wished to have described to
+you the Sunday music in the Sistina, a _soiree_ at Torlonia's, the
+Vatican, St. Onofrio, Guido's Aurora, and other small matters, but
+I reserve them for my next letter. The post is about to set off,
+and this letter with it. My good wishes are always with you, to-day
+and ever.
+
+          Yours, FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, December 7th, 1830.
+
+I cannot even to-day manage to write to you as fully as I wish.
+Heaven knows how time flies here! I was introduced this week to
+several agreeable English families, and so I have the prospect of
+many pleasant evenings this winter. I am much with Bunsen. I intend
+also to cultivate Baini. I think he conceives me to be only a
+_brutissimo Tedesco_, so that I have a famous opportunity of
+becoming well acquainted with him. His compositions are certainly
+of no great value, and the same may be said of the whole music
+here. The wish is not wanting, but the means do not exist. The
+orchestra is below contempt. Mdlle. Carl,[8] (who is engaged as
+_prima donna assoluta_ for the season, at both the principal
+theatres here,) is now arrived, and begins to make _la pluie et le
+beau temps_. The Papal singers even are becoming old; they are
+almost all unmusical, and do not execute even the most established
+pieces in tune. The whole choir consists of thirty-two singers,
+but that number are rarely together. Concerts are given by the
+so-called Philharmonic Society, but only with the piano. There is
+no orchestra, and when recently they wished to perform Haydn's
+"Creation," the instrumentalists declared it was impossible to play
+it. The sounds they bring out of their wind instruments, are such
+as in Germany we have no conception of.
+
+  [8] Formerly a singer in the Royal Theatre at Berlin.
+
+The Pope is dead, and the Conclave assembles on the 14th. A great
+part of the winter will be occupied with the ceremonies of his
+funeral, and the enthronement of the new Pope. All music therefore
+and large parties must be at an end, so I very much doubt whether I
+shall be able to undertake any public performance during my stay
+here; but I do not regret this, for there are so many varied
+objects to enjoy inwardly, that my dwelling on these and meditating
+on them is no disadvantage. The performance of Graun's "Passion" in
+Naples, and more especially the translation of Sebastian Bach's,
+prove that the good cause is sure eventually to make its way,
+though it will neither kindle enthusiasm, nor will it be
+appreciated. It is no worse however with regard to music--in fact,
+rather better--than with their estimate of every other branch of
+the fine arts; for when some of Raphael's Loggie are with
+inconceivable recklessness and disgraceful barbarism actually
+defaced, to give place to inscriptions in pencil; when the lower
+parts of the arabesques are totally destroyed, because Italians
+with knives, and Heaven knows what else besides, inscribe their
+insignificant names there; when one person painted in large
+letters under the Apollo Belvedere, 'Christ;' when an altar has
+been erected in front of Michael Angelo's "Last Judgment," so large
+that it hides the centre of the picture, thus destroying the whole
+effect; when cattle are driven through the splendid saloons of the
+Villa Madama, the walls of which are painted by Giulio Romano, and
+fodder is stored in them, simply from indifference towards the
+beautiful,--all this is certainly much worse than a bad orchestra,
+and painters must be even more distressed by such things than I am
+by their miserable music.
+
+The fact is, that the people are mentally enervated and apathetic.
+They have a religion, but they do not believe in it; they have a
+Pope and a Government, but they turn them into ridicule; they can
+recall a brilliant and heroic past, but they do not value it. It is
+thus no marvel that they do not delight in Art, for they are
+indifferent to all that is earnest. It is really quite revolting to
+see their unconcern about the death of the Pope, and their unseemly
+merriment during the ceremonies. I myself saw the corpse lying in
+state, and the priests standing round incessantly whispering and
+laughing; and at this moment, when masses are being said for his
+soul, they are in the very same church hammering away at the
+scaffolding of the catafalque, so that the strokes of the hammers
+and the noise of the workpeople entirely prevent any one hearing
+the religious services. As soon as the Cardinals assemble in
+conclave, satires appear against them, where, for instance, they
+parody the Litanies, and instead of praying to be delivered from
+each particular sin, they name the bad qualities of each well-known
+cardinal; or, again, they perform an entire opera, where all the
+characters are Cardinals, one being the _primo amoroso_, another
+the _tiranno assoluto_, a third, stage candle-snuffer, etc. This
+could not be the case where the people took any pleasure in Art.
+Formerly it was no better, but they had faith then; and it is this
+which makes the difference. Nature, however, and the genial
+December atmosphere, and the outlines of the Alban hills,
+stretching as far as the sea, all remain unchanged. There they can
+scribble no names, or compose no inscriptions. These every one can
+still individually enjoy in all their freshness, and to these I
+cling. I feel much the want of a _friend_ here, to whom I could
+freely unbosom myself; who could read my music as I write it, thus
+making it doubly precious in my eyes; in whose society I could feel
+an interest, and enjoy repose; and honestly learn from him, (it
+would not require a very wise man for this purpose.) But just as
+trees are not ordained to grow up into the sky, so probably such a
+man is not likely to be found here; and the good fortune I have
+hitherto so richly enjoyed elsewhere, is not to fall to my share at
+present; so I must hum over my melodies to myself, and I dare say I
+shall do well enough.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, December 10th, 1830.
+
+     Dear Father,
+
+It is a year this very day since we kept your birthday at Hensel's,
+and now let me give you some account of Rome, as I did at that time
+of London. I intend to finish my Overture to the "Einsame Insel"[9]
+as a present to you, and if I write under it the 11th December,
+when I take up the sheets I shall feel as if I were about to place
+them in your hands. You would probably say that you could not read
+them, but still I should have offered you the best it was in my
+power to give; and though I desire to do this every day, still
+there is a peculiar feeling connected with a birthday. Would I were
+with you! I need not offer you my good wishes, for you know them
+all already, and the deep interest I, and all of us, take in your
+happiness and welfare, and that we cannot wish any good for you,
+that is not reflected doubly on ourselves. To-day is a holiday. I
+rejoice in thinking how cheerful you are at home; and when I repeat
+to you how happily I live here, I feel as if this were also a
+felicitation. A period like this, when serious thought and
+enjoyment are combined, is indeed most cheering and invigorating.
+Every time I enter my room I rejoice that I am not obliged to
+pursue my journey on the following day, and that I may quietly
+postpone many things till the morrow--that I am in Rome! Hitherto
+much that passed through my brain was swept away by fresh ideas,
+each new impression chasing away the previous one, while here, on
+the contrary, they are all in turn properly developed. I never
+remember having worked with so much zeal, and if I am to complete
+all that I have projected, I must be very industrious during the
+winter. I am indeed deprived of the great delight of showing my
+finished compositions to one who could take pleasure in them, and
+enter into them along with me; but this impels me to return to my
+labours, which please me most when I am fairly in the midst of
+them. And now this must be combined with the various solemnities,
+and festivals of every kind, which are to supplant my work for a
+few days; and as I have resolved to see and to enjoy all I possibly
+can, I do not allow my occupation to prevent this, and shall then
+return with fresh zeal to my composition.
+
+  [9] Afterwards published under the name of "Overture to the
+  Hebrides."
+
+This is indeed a delightful existence! My health is as good as
+possible, though the hot wind, called here the _sirocco_, rather
+attacks my nerves, and I find I must beware of playing the piano
+much, or at night; besides it is easy for me to refrain from doing
+so for a few days, as for some weeks past I have been playing
+almost every evening. Bunsen, who often warns me against playing
+if I find it prejudicial, gave a large party yesterday, where
+nevertheless I was obliged to play; but it was a pleasure
+to me, for I had the opportunity of making so many agreeable
+acquaintances. Thorwaldsen, in particular, expressed himself in so
+gratifying a manner with regard to me, that I felt quite proud, for
+I honor him as one of the greatest of men, and always have revered
+him. He looks like a lion, and the very sight of his face is
+invigorating. You feel at once that he must be a noble artist; his
+eyes look so clear, as if with him every object must assume a
+definite form and image. Moreover he is very gentle, and kind, and
+mild, because his nature is so superior; and yet he seems to be
+able to enjoy every trifle. It is a real source of pleasure to see
+a great man, and to know that the creator of works that will endure
+for ever stands before you in person; a living being with all his
+attributes, and individuality, and genius, and yet a man like
+others.
+
+
+     December 11th, morning.
+
+Now your actual birthday is arrived! A few lines of music suggested
+themselves to me on the occasion, and though they may not be worth
+much, the congratulations I have been in the habit of offering,
+were of quite as little value. Fanny may add the second part. I
+have only written what occurred to my mind as I entered the room,
+the sun shining, on your birthday:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+  [Music]
+
+  [Music]
+
+Bunsen has just been here, and begs me to send you his best regards
+and congratulations. He is all kindness and courtesy towards me,
+and as you wish to know, I think I may say that we suit each other
+remarkably well. The few words you wrote about P---- recalled him
+to my memory in all his offensiveness. The Abbate Santini ought to
+be an obscure man compared with him, for he never attempts to
+magnify his own importance by impertinence or self-sufficiency.
+P---- is one of those collectors who make learning and libraries
+distasteful to others by their narrow-mindedness, whereas Santini
+is a genuine collector, in the best sense of the word, caring
+little whether his collection be of much value in a pecuniary point
+of view. He therefore gives everything away indiscriminately, and
+is only anxious to procure something new, for his chief object is
+the diffusion and universal knowledge of ancient music. I have not
+seen him lately, as every morning now he figures, _ex officio_, in
+his violet gown at St. Peter's; but if he has made use of some
+ancient text, he will say so without scruple, as he has no wish to
+be thought the first discoverer. He is, in fact, a man of limited
+capacity; and this I consider great praise in a certain sense, for
+though he is neither a musical nor any other luminary, and even
+bears some resemblance to Lessing's inquisitive friar, still he
+knows how to confine himself within his own sphere. Music itself
+does not interest him much, if he can only have it on his shelves;
+and he is, and esteems himself to be, simply a quiet, zealous
+collector. I must admit that he is fatiguing, and not altogether
+free from irritability; still I love any one who adopts and
+perseveres in some particular pursuit, prosecuting it to the best
+of his ability, and endeavouring to perfect it for the benefit of
+mankind, and I think every one ought to esteem him just the same,
+whether he chance to be tiresome or agreeable.
+
+I wish you would read this aloud to P----. It always makes me
+furious when men who have no pursuit, presume to criticize those
+who wish to effect something, even on a small scale; so on this
+very account I took the liberty of rebuking lately a certain
+musician in society here. He began to speak of Mozart, and as
+Bunsen and his sister love Palestrina, he tried to flatter their
+tastes by asking me, for instance, what I thought of the worthy
+Mozart, and all his sins. I however replied, that so far as I was
+concerned, I should feel only too happy to renounce all _my_
+virtues in exchange for Mozart's sins: but that of course I could
+not venture to pronounce on the extent of _his_ virtues. The people
+all laughed, and were highly amused. How strange it is that such
+persons should feel no awe of so great a name!
+
+It is some consolation, however, that it is the same in every
+sphere of art, as the painters here are quite as bad. They are most
+formidable to look at, sitting in their _Cafe Greco_. I scarcely
+ever go there, for I dislike both them and their favourite places
+of resort. It is a small dark room, about eight feet square, where
+on one side you may smoke, but not on the other; so they sit round
+on benches, with their broad-leaved hats on their heads, and their
+huge mastiffs beside them; their cheeks and throats, and the whole
+of their faces covered with hair, puffing forth clouds of smoke
+(only on one side of the room), and saying rude things to each
+other, while the mastiffs swarm with vermin. A neckcloth or a coat
+would be quite innovations. Any portion of the face visible through
+the beard, is hid by spectacles; so they drink coffee, and speak of
+Titian and Pordenone, just as if they were sitting beside them, and
+also wore beards and wide-awakes! Moreover, they paint such sickly
+Madonnas and feeble saints, and such milk-sop heroes, that I feel
+the strongest inclination to knock them down. These infernal
+critics do not even shrink from discussing Titian's picture in the
+Vatican, about which you asked me; they say that it has neither
+subject nor meaning; yet it never seems to occur to them, that a
+master who had so long studied a picture with due love and
+reverence, must have had quite as deep an insight into the subject
+as they are likely to have, even with their coloured spectacles.
+And if in the course of my life I accomplish nothing but this, I am
+at all events determined to say the most harsh and cutting things
+to those who show no reverence towards their masters, and then I
+shall at least have performed one good work. But there they stand,
+and see all the splendour of those creations, so far transcending
+their own conceptions, and yet dare to criticize them.
+
+In this picture there are three stages, or whatever they are
+called the same as in the "Transfiguration." Below, saints and
+martyrs are represented in suffering and abasement; on every face
+is depicted sadness, nay almost impatience; one figure in rich
+episcopal robes looks upwards, with the most eager and agonized
+longing, as if weeping, but he cannot see all that is floating
+above his head, but which _we_ see, standing in front of the
+picture. Above, Mary and her Child are in a cloud, radiant with
+joy, and surrounded by angels, who have woven many garlands; the
+Holy Child holds one of these, and seems as if about to crown the
+saints beneath, but his Mother withholds his hand for the moment.
+The contrast between the pain and suffering below, whence St.
+Sebastian looks forth out of the picture with such gloom and almost
+apathy, and the lofty unalloyed exultation in the clouds above,
+where crowns and palms are already awaiting him, is truly
+admirable. High above the group of Mary, hovers the Holy Spirit,
+from whom emanates a bright streaming light, thus forming the apex
+of the whole composition. I have just remembered that Goethe, at
+the beginning of his first visit to Rome, describes and admires
+this picture; but I no longer have the book to enable me to read it
+over, and to compare my description with his. He speaks of it in
+considerable detail. It was at that time in the Quirinal, and
+subsequently transferred to the Vatican; whether it was painted on
+a given subject, as some allege, or not, is of no moment. Titian
+has imbued it with his genius and his poetical feeling, and has
+thus made it his own. I like Schadow much, and am often with him;
+on every occasion, and especially in his own department, he is mild
+and clear-judging, doing justice with due modesty to all that is
+truly great; he recently said that Titian had never painted an
+indifferent or an uninteresting picture, and I believe he is right;
+for life and enthusiasm and the soundest vigour are displayed in
+all his productions, and where these are, it is good to be also.
+There is one singular and fortunate peculiarity here: though all
+the objects have been, a thousand times over, described, discussed,
+copied, and criticized, in praise or blame, by the greatest
+masters, and the most insignificant scholars, cleverly or stupidly,
+still they never fail to make a fresh and sublime impression on
+all, affecting each person according to his own individuality. Here
+we can take refuge from man in all that surrounds us; in Berlin it
+is often exactly the reverse.
+
+I have this moment received your letter of the 27th, and am pleased
+to find that I have already answered many of the questions it
+contains. There is no hurry about the letters I asked for, as I
+have now made almost more acquaintances than I wish; besides, late
+hours, and playing so much, do not suit me in Rome, so I can await
+the arrival of these letters very patiently: it was not so at the
+time I urged you to send them. I cannot however understand what you
+mean by your allusion to _coteries_ which I ought to have outgrown,
+for I know that I, and all of us, invariably dreaded and detested
+what is usually so called,--that is, a frivolous, exclusive circle
+of society, clinging to empty outward forms. Among persons,
+however, who daily meet, while their mutual objects of interest
+remain the same, who have no sympathy with public life (and this is
+certainly the case in Berlin, with the exception of the theatre),
+it is not unnatural that they should form for themselves a gay,
+cheerful, and original mode of treating passing events, and that
+this should give rise to a peculiar, and perhaps monotonous style
+of conversation; but this by no means constitutes a _coterie_. I
+feel convinced that I shall never belong to one, whether I am in
+Rome or Wittenberg. I am glad that the last words I was writing
+when your letter arrived, chanced to be that in Berlin you must
+take refuge in society from all that surrounds you; thus proving
+that I had no spirit of _coterie_, which invariably estranges men
+from each other. I should deeply regret your observing anything of
+the kind in me or in any of us, except indeed for the moment.
+Forgive me, my dear father, for defending myself so warmly, but
+this word is most repugnant to my feelings, and you say in your
+letters that I am always to speak out what I think in a
+straightforward manner, so pray do not take this amiss.
+
+I was in St. Peter's to-day, where the grand solemnities called the
+absolutions have begun for the Pope, and which last till Tuesday,
+when the Cardinals assemble in conclave. The building surpasses all
+powers of description. It appears to me like some great work of
+nature, a forest, a mass of rocks, or something similar; for I
+never can realize the idea that it is the work of man. You strive
+to distinguish the ceiling as little as the canopy of heaven. You
+lose your way in St. Peter's, you take a walk in it, and ramble
+till you are quite tired; when divine service is performed and
+chanted there, you are not aware of it till you come quite close.
+The angels in the Baptistery are monstrous giants; the doves,
+colossal birds of prey; you lose all idea of measurement with the
+eye, or proportion; and yet who does not feel his heart expand,
+when standing under the dome, and gazing up at it? At present a
+monstrous catafalque has been erected in the nave in this
+shape.[10] The coffin is placed in the centre under the pillars;
+the thing is totally devoid of taste, and yet it has a wondrous
+effect. The upper circle is thickly studded with lights, so are all
+the ornaments; the lower circle is lighted in the same way, and
+over the coffin hangs a burning lamp, and innumerable lights are
+blazing under the statues. The whole structure is more than a
+hundred feet high, and stands exactly opposite the entrance. The
+guards of honour, and the Swiss, march about in the quadrangle; in
+every corner sits a Cardinal in deep mourning, attended by his
+servants, who hold large burning torches, and then the singing
+commences with responses, in the simple and monotonous tone you no
+doubt remember. It is the only occasion when there is any singing
+in the middle of the church, and the effect is wonderful. Those who
+place themselves among the singers (as I do) and watch them, are
+forcibly impressed by the scene: for they all stand round a
+colossal book from which they sing, and this book is in turn lit up
+by a colossal torch that burns before it; while the choir are
+eagerly pressing forward in their vestments, in order to see and to
+sing properly: and Baini with his monk's face, marking time with
+his hand, and occasionally joining in the chant with a stentorian
+voice. To watch all these different Italian faces, was most
+interesting; one enjoyment quickly succeeds another here, and it is
+the same in their churches, especially in St. Peter's, where by
+moving a few steps the whole scene is changed. I went to the very
+furthest end, whence there was indeed a wonderful _coup d'oeil_.
+Through the spiral columns of the high altar, which is confessedly
+as high as the palace in Berlin, far beyond the space of the
+cupola, the whole mass of the catafalque was seen in diminished
+perspective, with its rows of lights, and numbers of small human
+beings crowding round it. When the music commences, the sounds do
+not reach the other end for a long time, but echo and float in the
+vast space, so that the most singular and vague harmonies are borne
+towards you. If you change your position, and place yourself right
+in front of the catafalque, beyond the blaze of light and the
+brilliant pageantry, you have the dusky cupola replete with blue
+vapour; all this is quite indescribable. Such is Rome!
+
+  [10] A little sketch of the catafalque was enclosed in the
+  letter.
+
+This has become a long letter, so I must conclude; it will reach
+you on Christmas-day. May you all enjoy it happily! I send each of
+you presents, which are to be dispatched two days hence, and will
+arrive in time for the anniversary of your silver wedding-day. Many
+glad festivals are thus crowded together, and I scarcely know
+whether to imagine myself with you to-day, and to wish you, dear
+father, all possible happiness, or to arrive with my letter at
+Christmas, and not to be allowed by my mother to pass through the
+room with the Christmas-tree. I am afraid I must be contented with
+thinking of you.--Farewell all! May you be happy!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+I have just received your letter, which brings me the intelligence
+of Goethe's illness. What I personally feel at this news I cannot
+express. This whole evening his words, "I must try to keep all
+right till your return," have sounded continually in my ears, to
+the exclusion of every other thought: when he is gone, Germany will
+assume a very different aspect for artists. I have never thought of
+Germany without feeling heartfelt joy and pride that Goethe lived
+there; and the rising generation seem for the most part so weakly
+and feeble, that it makes my heart sink within me. He is the last;
+and with him closes a happy prosperous period for us! This year
+ends in solemn sadness.
+
+
+     Rome, December 20th, 1830.
+
+In my former letter I told you of the more serious aspect of Roman
+life; but as I wish to describe to you how I live, I must now tell
+you of the gayeties that have prevailed during this week.
+
+To-day we have the most genial sunshine, a blue sky, and a
+transparent atmosphere, and on such days I have my own mode of
+passing my time. I work hard till eleven o'clock, and from that
+hour till dark, I do nothing but breathe the air. For the first
+time, for some days past, we yesterday had fine weather. After
+therefore working for a time in the morning at "Solomon," I went to
+the Monte Pincio, where I rambled about the whole day. The effect
+of this exhilarating air is quite magical; and when I arose to-day,
+and again saw bright sunshine, I exulted in the thoughts of the
+entire idleness I was again about to indulge in. The whole world is
+on foot, revelling in a December spring. Every moment you meet some
+acquaintance, with whom you lounge about for a time, then leave
+him, and once more enjoy your solitary revery. There are swarms of
+handsome faces to be seen. As the sun declines, the appearance of
+the whole landscape, and every hue, undergo a change. When the Ave
+Maria sounds, it is time to go to the church of Trinita de' Monti,
+where French nuns sing; and it is charming to hear them. I declare
+to heaven that I am become quite tolerant, and listen to bad music
+with edification; but what can I do? the composition is positively
+ridiculous; the organ playing even more absurd. But it is
+twilight, and the whole of the small bright church is filled with
+persons kneeling, lit up by the sinking sun each time that the door
+is opened; both the singing nuns have the sweetest voices in the
+world, quite tender and touching, more especially when one of them
+sings the responses in her melodious voice, which we are accustomed
+to hear chanted by priests in a loud, harsh, monotonous tone. The
+impression is very singular; moreover, it is well known that no one
+is permitted to see the fair singers,--so this caused me to form a
+strange resolution. I have composed something to suit their voices,
+which I observed very minutely, and I mean to send it to
+them,--there are several modes to which I can have recourse to
+accomplish this. That they will sing it, I feel quite assured; and
+it will be pleasant for me to hear my chant performed by persons
+whom I never saw, especially as they must in turn sing it to the
+_barbaro Tedesco_, whom they also never beheld. I am charmed with
+this idea. The text is in Latin,--a Prayer to Mary. Does not this
+notion please you?[11]
+
+  [11] This piece appeared afterwards as Opus 39.
+
+After church I walk again on the hill until it is quite dark, when
+Madame Vernet and her daughter, and pretty Madame V---- (for whose
+acquaintance I have to thank Roesel), are much admired by us
+Germans, and we form groups round them, or follow, or walk beside
+them. The background is formed by haggard painters with terrific
+beards; they smoke tobacco on the Monte Pincio, whistle to their
+huge dogs, and enjoy the sunset in their own way.
+
+As I am in a frivolous mood to-day, I must relate to you, dear
+sisters, every particular of a ball I lately attended, and where I
+danced with a degree of zeal I never did before. I had spoken a few
+fair words to the _maitre de danse_ (who stands in the middle here,
+and regulates everything), consequently he allowed the galop to
+continue for more than half an hour, so I was in my element, and
+pleasantly conscious that I was dancing in the Palazzo Albani, in
+Rome, and also with the prettiest girl in it, according to the
+verdict of the competent judges (Thorwaldsen, Vernet, etc.) The way
+in which I became acquainted with her is also an anecdote of Rome.
+I was at Torlonia's first ball, though not dancing, as I knew none
+of the ladies present, but merely looking at the people. Suddenly
+some one tapped me on the shoulder, saying, "So you also are
+admiring the English beauty; I am quite dazzled." It was
+Thorwaldsen himself standing at the door, lost in admiration;
+scarcely had he said this, when we heard a torrent of words behind
+us,--"Mais ou est-elle donc, cette petite Anglaise? Ma femme m'a
+envoye pour la regarder. Per Bacco!" It was quite clear that this
+little thin Frenchman, with stiff, grey hair, and the ribbon of the
+Legion of Honour, must be Horace Vernet. He now discussed the
+youthful beauty with Thorwaldsen, in the most earnest and
+scientific manner; and it was quite a pleasure to me to see these
+two old masters admiring the young girl together, while she was
+dancing away, quite unconcerned. They were then presented to her
+parents, but I felt very insignificant, as I could not join in the
+conversation. A few days afterwards, however, I was with some
+acquaintances whom I knew through the Attwoods, at Venice, they
+having invited me for the purpose of presenting me to some of their
+friends; and these friends turned out to be the very persons I have
+been speaking of; so your son and brother was highly delighted.
+
+My pianoforte playing is a source of great gratification to me
+here. You know how Thorwaldsen loves music, and I sometimes play to
+him in the morning while he is at work. He has an excellent
+instrument in his studio, and when I look at the old gentleman and
+see him kneading his brown clay, and delicately fining off an arm,
+or a fold of drapery,--in short, when he is creating what we must
+all admire when completed, as an enduring work,--then I do indeed
+rejoice that I have the means of bestowing any enjoyment on him.
+Nevertheless, I have not fallen into arrear with my own tasks. The
+"Hebrides" is completed at last, and a strange production it is.
+The chant for the nuns is in my head; and I think of composing
+Luther's choral for Christmas, but on this occasion I must do so
+quite alone; and it will be a more serious affair this time, and so
+will the anniversary of your silver wedding-day, when I intend to
+have a great many lights, and to sing my "Liederspiel," and to have
+a peep at my English _baton_. After the new year, I intend to
+resume instrumental music, and to write several things for the
+piano, and probably a symphony of some kind, for two have been
+haunting my brain.
+
+I have lately frequented a most delightful spot,--the tomb of
+Cecilia Metella. The Sabine hills had a sprinkling of snow, but it
+was glorious sunshine; the Alban hills were like a dream or a
+vision. There is no such thing as distance in Italy, for all the
+houses on the hills can be counted, with their roofs and windows. I
+have thus inhaled this air to satiety; and to-morrow in all
+probability, more serious occupations will be resumed, for the sky
+is cloudy, and it is raining hard, but what a spring this will be!
+
+
+     December 21st.
+
+This is the shortest day, and very gloomy, as might have been
+anticipated; so to-day nothing can be thought of but fugues,
+chorals, balls, etc. But I must say a few words about Guido's
+"Aurora," which I often visit; it is a picture the very type of
+haste and impetus; for surely no man ever imagined such hurry and
+tumult, such sounding and clashing. Painters maintain that it is
+lighted from two sides,--they have my full permission to light
+_theirs_ from three if it will improve them,--but the difference
+lies elsewhere.
+
+I really cannot compose a tolerable song here, for who is there to
+sing it to me? But I am writing a grand fugue, "Wir glauben all,"
+and sing it to myself in such a fashion that my friend the Captain
+rushes downstairs in alarm, puts in his head, and asks what I want.
+I answer--a counter theme. But how much I do really want; and yet
+how much I have got! Thus life passes onwards.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, December 28th, 1830.
+
+Rome in wet weather is the most odious, uncomfortable place
+imaginable. For some days past we have had incessant storms and
+cold, and streams of water from the sky; and I can scarcely
+comprehend how, only one week ago, I could write you a letter full
+of rambles and orange-trees and all that is beautiful: in such
+weather as this everything becomes ugly. Still, I must write to you
+about it, otherwise my previous letter would not have the advantage
+of contrast, and of that there is no lack. If in Germany we can
+form no conception of the bright winter days here, quite as little
+can we realize a really wet winter day in Rome; everything is
+arranged for fine weather, so the bad is borne like a public
+calamity, and in the hope of better times. There is no shelter
+anywhere; in my room, which is usually so comfortable, the water
+pours in through the windows, which will not shut fast; the wind
+whistles through the doors, which will not close; the stone floor
+chills you in spite of double mattings, and the smoke from the
+chimney is driven into the room, because the fire will not burn;
+foreigners shiver and freeze here like tailors.
+
+All this is, however, actual luxury when compared with the streets;
+and when I am obliged to go out, I consider it a positive
+misfortune. Rome, as every one knows, is built on seven large
+hills; but there are a number of smaller ones besides, and all the
+streets are sloping, so the water pours down them, and rushes
+towards you; nowhere is there a raised footpath, or a _trottoir_;
+at the stair of the Piazza di Spagna, there is a flood like the
+great water-works in Wilhelms-Hoehe; the Tiber has overflowed its
+banks, and inundated the adjacent streets: this, then, is the water
+from below. From above come violent showers of rain, but that is
+the least part. The houses have no water-spouts, and the long roofs
+slant precipitously, but, being of different lengths, this causes
+an incessant violent inundation on both sides of the street, so
+that go where you will, close to the houses, or in the middle of
+the streets, beside a barber's shop or a palace, you are sure to be
+deluged, and, quite unawares, you find yourself standing under a
+tremendous shower-bath, the water pelting on your umbrella, while a
+stream is running before you that you cannot jump over, so you are
+obliged to return the way you came: this is the water overhead.
+Then the carriages drive as rapidly as possible, and close to the
+houses, so that you must retreat into the doorways till they are
+past; they not only splash men and houses, but each other, so that
+when two meet, one must drive into the gutter, which, being a rapid
+current, the consequences are lamentable. Lately I saw an Abbate
+hurrying along, whose umbrella chancing to knock off the
+broad-brimmed hat of a peasant, it fell with the crown exposed to
+one of these deluges, and when the man went to pick it up, it was
+quite filled with water. "Scusi," said the Abbate. "Padrone,"
+replied the peasant. The hackney coaches moreover only ply till
+five o'clock, so if you go to a party at night, it costs you a
+scudo. _Fiat justitia et pereat mundus_--Rome in rainy weather is
+vastly disagreeable.
+
+I see by a letter of Devrient's, that one I wrote to him from
+Venice, and which I took to the post myself on the 17th of October,
+had not reached him on the 19th of November. It would appear also,
+that another which I sent the same day to Munich had not arrived;
+both these letters contained music, and this accounts for the loss.
+At that very time in Venice they carried off all my manuscripts to
+the Custom-house, after visiting my effects at night, shortly
+before the departure of the post, and I only received them again
+here, after much worry and writing backwards and forwards. Every
+one assured me that the cause of this was a secret correspondence
+being suspected in cipher in the manuscript music. I could scarcely
+credit such intolerable stupidity; but as my two letters from
+Venice containing music have not arrived, and these only, the
+thing is clear enough. I intend to complain of this to the Austrian
+ambassador here, but it will do no good, and the letters are lost,
+which I much regret. Farewell!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, January 17th, 1831.
+
+For a week past we have had the most lovely spring weather. Young
+girls are carrying about nosegays of violets and anemones, which
+they gather early in the morning at the Villa Pamfili. The streets
+and squares swarm with gaily attired pedestrians; the Ave Maria has
+already been advanced twenty minutes, but what is become of the
+winter? Some little time ago it indeed reminded me of my work, to
+which I now mean to apply steadily, for I own that during the gay
+social life of the previous weeks, I had rather neglected it. I
+have nearly completed the arrangement of "Solomon," and also my
+Christmas anthem, which consists of five numbers; the two
+symphonies also begin to assume a more definite form, and I
+particularly wish to finish them here. Probably I shall be able to
+accomplish this during Lent, when parties cease (especially balls)
+and spring begins, and then I shall have both time and inclination
+to compose, in which case I hope to have a good store of new
+works. Any performance of them here is quite out of the question.
+The orchestras are worse than any one could believe; both
+musicians, and a right feeling for music, are wanting. The two or
+three violin performers play just as they choose, and join in when
+they please; the wind instruments are tuned either too high or too
+low; and they execute flourishes like those we are accustomed to
+hear in farm-yards, but hardly so good; in short the whole forms a
+Dutch concert, and this applies even to compositions with which
+they are familiar.
+
+The question is, whether all this could be radically reformed by
+introducing other people into the orchestra, by teaching the
+musicians time, and by instructing them in first principles. I
+think in that case the people would no doubt take pleasure in it;
+so long, however, as this is not done, no improvement can be hoped
+for, and every one seems so indifferent on the subject, that there
+is not the slightest prospect of such a thing. I heard a solo on
+the flute, where the flute was more than a quarter of a tone too
+high; it set my teeth on edge, but no one remarked it, and when at
+the end a shake came, they applauded mechanically. If it were even
+a shade better with regard to singing! The great singers have left
+the country. Lablache, David, Lalande, Pisaroni, etc., sing in
+Paris, and the minor ones who remain, copy their inspired moments,
+which they caricature in the most insupportable manner.
+
+We in Germany may perhaps wish to accomplish something false or
+impossible, but it is, and always will be, quite _dissimilar_; and
+just as a _cicisbeo_ will for ever be odious and repulsive to my
+feelings, so is it also with Italian music. I may be too obtuse to
+comprehend either; but I shall never feel otherwise; and recently,
+at the Philharmonic, after the music of Pacini and Bellini, when
+the Cavaliere Ricci begged me to accompany him in "Non piu andrai,"
+the very first notes were so utterly different and so infinitely
+remote from all the previous music, that the matter was clear to me
+then, and never will it be equalized, so long as there is such a
+blue sky, and such a charming winter as the present. In the same
+way the Swiss can paint no beautiful scenery, precisely because
+they have it the whole day before their eyes. "Les Allemands
+traitent la musique comme une affaire d'etat," says Spontini, and I
+accept the axiom. I lately heard some musicians here talking of
+their composers, and I listened in silence. One quoted ----, but
+the others interrupted him, saying he could not be considered an
+Italian, for the German school still clung to him, and he had never
+been able to get rid of it; consequently he had never been at home
+in Italy: we Germans say precisely the reverse of him, and it must
+be not a little trying to find yourself so _entre deux_, and
+without any fatherland. So far as I am concerned I stick to my own
+colours, which are quite honourable enough for me.
+
+Last night a theatre that Torlonia has undertaken and organized,
+was opened with a new opera of Pacini's. The crowd was great, and
+every box filled with handsome, well-dressed people; young Torlonia
+appeared in a stage-box with his mother, the old Duchess, and they
+were immensely applauded. The audience called out _Bravo, Torlonia,
+grazie, grazie!_ Opposite to him was Jerome, with his suite, and
+covered with orders: in the next box Countess Samoilow, etc. Over
+the orchestra is a picture of Time pointing to the dial of the
+clock, which revolves slowly, and is enough to make any one
+melancholy. Pacini then appeared at the piano, and was kindly
+welcomed. He had prepared no overture, so the opera began with a
+chorus, accompanied by strokes on an anvil tuned in the proper key.
+The Corsair came forward, sang his _aria_, and was applauded, on
+which the Corsair above, and the Maestro below, bowed (this pirate
+is a contralto, and sung by Mademoiselle Mariani); a variety of
+airs followed, and the piece became very tiresome. This seemed to
+be also the opinion of the public, for when Pacini's grand _finale_
+began, the whole pit stood up, talking to each other as loud as
+they could, laughing and turning their backs on the stage. Madame
+Samoilow fainted in her box, and was carried out. Pacini glided
+away from the piano, and at the end of the act, the curtain fell in
+the midst of a great tumult. Then came the grand ballet of _Barbe
+Bleue_, followed by the last act of the opera. As the audience were
+now in a mood for it, they hissed the whole ballet from the very
+beginning, and accompanied the second act also with hooting and
+laughter. At the close Torlonia was called for, but he would not
+appear.
+
+This is the matter-of-fact narrative of a first performance at the
+opening of a theatre in Rome. I had anticipated much amusement, so
+I came away considerably out of humour; still, if the music had
+made _furore_, I should have been very indignant, for it is so
+wretched that it really is beneath all criticism. But that they
+should turn their backs on their favourite Pacini, whom they wished
+to crown in the Capitol, parody his melodies, and sing them in a
+ludicrous style, this does, I confess, provoke me not a little, and
+is likewise a proof of how low such a musician stands in the public
+opinion. Another time they will carry him home on their shoulders;
+but this is no compensation. They would not act thus in France with
+regard to Boieldieu; independent of all love of art, a sense of
+propriety would prevent their doing so: but enough of this subject,
+for it is too vexatious.
+
+Why should Italy still insist on being the land of Art, while it is
+in reality the Land of Nature, thus delighting every heart! I have
+already described to you my walks to the Monte Pincio. I continue
+them daily. I went lately with the Vollards to Ponte Nomentano, a
+solitary dilapidated bridge in the spacious green Campagna. Many
+ruins from the days of ancient Rome, and many watch-towers from the
+Middle Ages, are scattered over this long succession of meadows;
+chains of hills rise towards the horizon, now partially covered
+with snow, and fantastically varied in form and colour by the
+shadows of the clouds. And there is also the enchanting, vapoury
+vision of the Alban hills, which change their hues like a
+chameleon, as you gaze at them,--where you can see for miles little
+white chapels glittering on the dark ground of the hills, as far as
+the Passionist Convent on the summit, and whence you can trace the
+road winding through thickets, and the hills sloping downwards to
+the Lake of Albano, while a hermitage peeps through the trees. The
+distance is equal to that from Berlin to Potsdam, say I as a good
+Berliner; but that it is a lovely vision, I say in earnest. No lack
+of music _there_; it echoes and vibrates _there_ on every side; not
+in the vapid, tasteless theatres. So we rambled about, chasing each
+other in the Campagna, and jumping over the fences, and when the
+sun went down we drove home, feeling so weary, and yet so
+self-satisfied and pleased, as if we had done great things; and so
+we have, if we _rightly appreciated_ it all.
+
+I have now applied myself again to drawing, and have latterly put
+in some tints, as I should be glad to be able to recall some of
+these bright hues, and practice quickens the perceptions. I must
+now tell you, dear mother, of a great, very great pleasure I
+recently enjoyed, because you will rejoice with me. Two days ago I
+was for the first time in a small circle with Horace Vernet, and
+played there. He had previously told me that his most favourite and
+esteemed music was "Don Juan," especially the Duet and the
+Commendatore at the end; and as I highly approved of such
+sentiments on his part, the result was, that while playing a
+prelude to Weber's _Concert-Stueck_, I imperceptibly glided further
+into extemporizing--thought I would please him by taking these
+themes, and so I worked them up fancifully for some time. This
+caused him a degree of delight far beyond what I ever knew my music
+produce in any one, and we became at once more intimate. Afterwards
+he suddenly came up to me, and whispered that we must make an
+exchange, for that he also was an improvisatore; and when I was
+naturally curious to know what he meant, he said it was his secret.
+He is however like a little child, and could not conceal it for
+more than a quarter of an hour, when he came in again, and taking
+me into the next room, he asked me if I had any time to spare, as
+he had stretched and prepared a canvas, and proposed painting my
+portrait on it, which I was to keep in memory of this day, or roll
+it up and send it to you, or take it with me, just as I chose. He
+said he should have no easy task with his improvisation, but at all
+events he would attempt it. I was only too glad to give my consent,
+and cannot tell you how much I was enchanted with the delight and
+enthusiasm he evidently felt in my playing.
+
+It was in every respect a happy evening; as I ascended the hill
+with him, all was so still and peaceful, and only one window lit up
+in the large dark villa.[12] Fragments of music floated on the
+air, and its echoes in the dark night, mingled with the murmuring
+of fountains, were sweeter than I can describe. Two young students
+were drilling in the anteroom, while the third acted the part of
+lieutenant, and commanded in good form. In another room my friend
+Montfort, who gained the prize for music in the Conservatorium, was
+seated at a piano, and others were standing round, singing a
+chorus; but it went very badly. They urged another young man to
+join them, and when he said that he did not know how to sing, his
+friend rejoined, "Qu'est-ce que ca fait? c'est toujours une voix de
+plus!" I helped them as I best could, and we were well amused.
+Afterwards we danced, and I wish you could have seen Louisa Vernet
+dancing the Saltarella with her father. When at length she was
+forced to stop for a few moments, and snatched up a tambourine,
+playing with the utmost spirit, and relieving us, who could really
+scarcely any longer move our hands, I wished I had been a painter,
+for what a superb picture she would have made! Her mother is the
+kindest creature in the world, and the grandfather, Charles Vernet
+(who paints such splendid horses), danced a quadrille the same
+evening with so much ease, making so many _entrechats_, and varying
+his steps so gracefully, that it is a sad pity he should actually
+be seventy-two years of age. Every day he rides, and tires out two
+horses, paints and draws a little, and spends the evening in
+society.
+
+  [12] Vernet lived in the Villa Medici.
+
+In my next letter I must tell you of my acquaintance with Robert,
+who has just finished an admirable picture, "The Harvest," and also
+describe my recent visits with Bunsen to the studios of Cornelius,
+Koch, Overbeck, etc. My time is fully occupied, for there is plenty
+to do and to see; unluckily I cannot make time elastic, however
+much I may strive to extend it. I have as yet said nothing of
+Raphael's portrait as a child, and Titian's "Nymphs Bathing," who
+in a piquant enough fashion are designated "Sacred and Profane
+Love," one being in full gala costume, while the other is devoid of
+all drapery,[13] or of my exquisite "Madonna di Foligno," or of
+Francesco Francia, the most guileless and devout painter in the
+world; or of poor Guido Reni, whom the bearded painters of the
+present day treat with such contempt, and yet he painted a certain
+Aurora, and many other splendid objects besides; but what avails
+description? It is well for me that I can revel in the sight of
+them. When we meet, I may perhaps be able to give you a better idea
+of them.
+
+         Your FELIX.
+
+  [13] This picture is in the Borghese Gallery.
+
+     Rome, February 1st, 1831.
+
+I intended not to write to you till my birthday, but possibly two
+days hence I may not be in a writing mood, and must drive all
+fancies away by hard work. It does not seem probable that the Papal
+military band will surprise me in the morning,[14] and as I have
+told all my acquaintances that I was born on the 25th, I think the
+day will glide quietly by; I prefer this to a trivial half-and-half
+celebration. I will place your portrait before me in the morning,
+and feel happy in looking at it and in thinking of you. I shall
+then play over my military overture, and select my favourite dish
+for dinner, from the _carte_ at the _Lepre_. It is not unprofitable
+to be obliged to do all this for one's self, both on birthdays and
+other days. I feel isolated enough, and am rather partial to the
+other extreme. At night the Torlonias are so obliging as to give a
+ball to eight hundred persons; on Wednesday, the day before, and
+on Friday, the day after my birthday, I am invited to the house
+of some English friends. During the previous week, I have been
+busily engaged in sight-seeing, and revisited many well-known
+objects;--thus I was in the Vatican, the Farnesina, Corsini, the
+Villa Lante, Borghese, etc. Two days ago I saw the frescoes for the
+first time in Bartholdy's house;[15] inasmuch as the English ladies
+who reside there, and who have transformed the painted saloon into
+a sleeping apartment, with a four-post bed, would never hitherto
+permit me to enter it. So this was my first visit to my uncle's
+house, where at last I saw his pictures, and the view of the city.
+It was a noble, regal idea to have these frescoes; and the
+execution of such a sublime thought, in spite of every kind of
+impediment and annoyance, simply in order that the design should be
+carried out, seems to me very charming.
+
+  [14] On the 3rd of February, 1830, the bands of some regiments in
+  Berlin gave Mendelssohn a serenade in honour of his birthday.
+
+  [15] The Prussian Consul-General Bartholdy, who died in Rome, and
+  was an uncle of Felix Mendelssohn's.
+
+But to turn to an entirely different subject. In many circles here,
+it is the fashion to consider piety and dulness synonymous, and yet
+they are very different; our German clergyman here is not
+behindhand in this respect. There are men in Rome with an amount of
+fanaticism credible in the sixteenth century, but quite monstrous
+in the present day; they all wish to make converts, abusing each
+other in a Christian manner, and each ridiculing the belief of his
+neighbour, till it is quite too sad to hear them. As if to have
+simplicity, and to be simple, were the same thing! Unfortunately I
+must here retract my favourite axiom, that _goodwill_ can effect
+all things, _ability_ must accompany it; but I am soaring too high,
+and my father will lecture me. I wish this letter were better, but
+we have snow on the ground; the roofs in the Piazza di Spagna are
+quite white, and heavy clouds of snow are gathering; nothing can be
+more odious to us Southerners, and we are freezing. The Monte
+Pincio is a mass of ice. Your Northern Lights have their revenge on
+us. Who can write or think with any degree of warmth? I was so
+pleased at the idea of being a whole winter without snow, but now I
+must give up that notion. The Italians say that spring breezes will
+come in a few days; then gay life, and gay letters, will be
+resumed. Farewell! may you enjoy every good, and think of me.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, February 8th, 1831.
+
+The Pope is elected: the Pope is crowned. He performed mass in St.
+Peter's on Sunday, and conferred his benediction; in the evening
+the dome was illuminated, succeeded by the Girandola; the Carnival
+began on Saturday, and pursues its headlong course in the most
+motley forms. The city has been illuminated each evening. Last
+night there was a ball at the French Embassy; to-day the Spanish
+Ambassador gives a grand entertainment. Next door to me they sell
+_confetti_, and how they do shout! And now I might as well stop,
+for why attempt to describe what is, in fact, indescribable? You
+ought to make Hensel tell you of these splendid _fetes_, which in
+pomp, brilliancy, and animation, surpass all the imagination can
+conceive, for my sober pen is not equal to the task. What a
+different aspect everything has assumed during the last eight days,
+for now the mildest and most genial sun is shining, and we remain
+in the balcony enjoying the air till after sunset. Oh, that I could
+enclose for you, in this letter, only one quarter of an hour of all
+this pleasure, or tell you how life actually flies in Rome, every
+minute bringing its own memorable delights! It is not difficult to
+give _fetes_ here; if the simple architectural outlines are lighted
+up, the dome of St. Peter's blazes forth in the dark purple
+atmosphere, calmly shining. If there are fireworks, they brighten
+the gloomy solid walls of the Castle of St. Angelo, and fall into
+the Tiber; when they commence their fantastic _fetes_ in February,
+the most lustrous sun shines down on them and beautifies them. It
+is a wondrous land.
+
+But I must not forget to tell you that I spent my birthday very
+differently from what I expected. I must however be brief, for an
+hour hence I go to join the Carnival in the Corso. My birthday had
+three celebrations--the eve, the birthday itself, and the day
+after. On the 2nd of February, Santini was sitting in my room in
+the morning, and in answer to my impatient questions about the
+Conclave, he replied with a diplomatic air, that there was little
+chance of a Pope being elected before Easter. Herr Brisbane also
+called, and told me that after leaving Berlin, he had been in
+Constantinople, and Smyrna, etc., and inquired after all his
+acquaintances in Berlin, when suddenly the report of a cannon was
+heard, and then another, and the people rushed across the Piazza di
+Spagna, shouting with all their might. We three started off, Heaven
+knows how, and ran breathlessly to the Quirinal, where the man was
+just retreating, who had shouted through a broken window--"Annuncio
+vobis gaudium magnum; habemus Papam R. E. dominum Capellari, qui
+nomen assumsit Gregorius XVI." All the Cardinals now crowded into
+the balcony, to breathe fresh air, and laughed, and talked together
+It was the first time they had been in the open air for fifty
+days, and yet they looked so gay, their red caps shining brightly
+in the sun; the whole Piazza was filled with people, who clambered
+on the obelisk, and on the horses of Phidias, and the statues
+projected far above in the air. Carriage after carriage drove up,
+amid jostling and shouting. Then the new Pope appeared, and before
+him was borne the golden cross, and he blessed the crowd for the
+first time, while the people at the same moment prayed, and cried
+"Hurrah!" All the bells in Rome were ringing, and there was firing
+of cannons, and flourishes of trumpets, and military music. This
+was the _eve_ of my birthday.
+
+Next morning I followed the crowd down the long street to the
+Piazza of St. Peter's, which looked finer than I had ever seen it,
+lit up brightly by the sun, and swarming with carriages; the
+Cardinals in their red coaches, driving in state to the sacristy,
+with servants in embroidered liveries, and people innumerable, of
+every nation, rank, and condition; and high above them the dome and
+the church seeming to float in blue vapour, for there was
+considerable mist in the morning air. And I thought that Capellari
+would probably appropriate all this to himself when he saw it; but
+I knew better. It was all to celebrate my birthday; and the
+election of the Pope, and the homage, a mere spectacle in honour of
+me; but it was well and naturally performed; and so long as I live.
+I shall never forget it.
+
+The Church of St. Peter's was crowded to the door. The Pope was
+borne in on his throne, and fans of peacocks' feathers carried
+before him, and then set down on the High Altar, when the Papal
+singers intoned, "_Tu es sacerdos magnus_." I only heard two or
+three chords, but it required no more; the sound was enough. Then
+one Cardinal succeeded another, kissing the Pope's foot and his
+hands, when he in turn embraced them. After surveying all this for
+a time, standing closely pressed by a crowd, and unable to move, to
+look suddenly aloft to the dome, as far as the lantern, inspires a
+singular sensation. I was with Diodati, among a throng of
+Capuchins; these saintly men are far from being devotional on an
+occasion of this kind, and by no means cleanly. But I must hasten
+on; the Carnival is beginning, and I must not lose any portion of
+it.
+
+At night, (in honour of my birthday,) barrels of pitch were burned
+in all the streets, and the Propaganda illuminated. The people
+thought this was owing to its being the former residence of the
+Pope, but _I_ knew it was because I lived exactly opposite, and I
+had only to lean out of my window to enjoy it all. Then came
+Torlonia's ball, and in every corner were seen glimpses of red caps
+above, and red stockings below. The following day they worked very
+hard at scaffoldings, platforms, and stages for the Carnival;
+edicts were posted up about horse-racing, and specimens of masks
+were displayed at the windows, and (in celebration of the day
+following my birthday) the illumination of the dome, and the
+Girandola were fixed for Sunday. On Saturday all the world went to
+the Capitol, to witness the form of the Jews' supplications to be
+suffered to remain in the Sacred City for another year; a request
+which is refused at the foot of the hill, but after repeated
+entreaties, granted on the summit, and the Ghetto is assigned to
+them. It was a tiresome affair; we waited two hours, and after all,
+understood the oration of the Jews as little as the answer of the
+Christians. I came down again in very bad humour, and thought that
+the Carnival had commenced rather unpropitiously. So I arrived in
+the Corso and was driving along, thinking no evil, when I was
+suddenly assailed by a shower of sugar comfits. I looked up; they
+had been flung by some young ladies whom I had seen occasionally at
+balls, but scarcely knew, and when in my embarrassment I took off
+my hat to bow to them, the pelting began in right earnest. Their
+carriage drove on, and in the next was Miss T----, a delicate young
+Englishwoman. I tried to bow to her, but she pelted me too, so I
+became quite desperate, and clutching the _confetti_, I flung them
+back bravely; there were swarms of my acquaintances, and my blue
+coat was soon as white as that of a miller. The B----s were
+standing on a balcony, flinging _confetti_ like hail at my head;
+and thus pelting and pelted, amid a thousand jests and jeers, and
+the most extravagant masks, the day ended with races.
+
+The following day there was no carnival, but as a compensation, the
+Pope conferred his benediction from the Loggia, in the Piazza of
+St. Peter's; he was consecrated as Bishop in the Church, and at
+night the dome was lighted up. The sudden, nay _instantaneous_
+change the illumination of the building effects, you must ask
+Hensel to paint or to describe, whichever he prefers. Nothing can
+be more startling than the sudden and surprising vision, of so
+many hundred human beings, previously invisible, now revealed as
+it were in the air, working and moving about--and the glorious
+Girandola,--but who can conceive it! Now the gaieties recommence.
+Farewell! in my next letter I mean to continue my description.
+Yesterday, at the Carnival, flowers and _bonbons_ were indiscriminately
+thrown, and a mask gave me a bouquet, which I have dried, and mean
+to bring home for you. All idea of occupation is out of the question
+at present; I have only composed one little song; but when Lent comes,
+I intend to be more industrious. Who can at such a moment think either
+of writing or music? I must go out, so farewell, dear ones.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, February 22nd, 1831.
+
+A thousand thanks for your letter of the 8th, which I received
+yesterday, on my return from Tivoli. I cannot tell you, dear Fanny,
+how much I am delighted with your plan about the Sunday music. This
+idea of yours is most brilliant, and I do entreat of you, for
+Heaven's sake, not to let it die away again; on the contrary, pray
+give your travelling brother a commission to write something new
+for you. He will gladly do so, for he is quite charmed with you,
+and with your project. You must let me know what voices you have,
+and also take counsel with your subjects as to what they like best
+(for the people, O Fanny, have rights). I think it would be a good
+plan to place before them something easy, interesting and
+pleasing,--for instance, the Litany of Sebastian Bach. But to speak
+seriously, I recommend the "Shepherd of Israel," or the "Dixit
+Dominus," of Haendel.
+
+Do you mean to play something during the intervals to these people?
+I think this would not be unprofitable to either party, for they
+must have time to take breath, and you must study the piano, and
+thus it would become a vocal and instrumental concert. I wish so
+much that I could be one of the audience, and compliment you
+afterwards. Be discreet and indulgent, and avoid fatiguing either
+yourself or the voices of your singers. Do not be irritable when
+things go badly; say very little on the subject to any one. Lastly,
+above all, endeavour to prevent the choir feeling any tedium, for
+this is the principal point. One of my pieces certainly owes its
+birth to this Sunday music. When you wrote to me about it lately, I
+reflected whether there was anything I could send you, thus
+reviving an old favourite scheme of mine, which has however now
+assumed such vast proportions, that I cannot let you have any part
+of it by E----, but you shall have it at some future time.
+
+Listen and wonder! Since I left Vienna I have partly composed
+Goethe's first "Walpurgis Night," but have not yet had courage to
+write it down. The composition has now assumed a form, and become a
+grand Cantata, with full orchestra, and may turn out well. At the
+opening there are songs of spring, etc., and plenty of others of
+the same kind. Afterwards, when the watchmen with their "Gabeln,
+und Zacken, und Eulen," make a great noise, the fairy frolics
+begin, and you know that I have a particular foible for them; the
+sacrificial Druids then appear, with their trombones in C major,
+when the watchmen come in again in alarm, and here I mean to
+introduce a light mysterious tripping chorus; and lastly to
+conclude with a grand sacrificial hymn. Do you not think that this
+might develop into a new style of Cantata? I have an instrumental
+introduction, as a matter of course, and the effect of the whole is
+very spirited. I hope it will soon be finished. I have once more
+begun to compose with fresh vigour, and the Italian symphony makes
+rapid progress; it will be the most sportive piece I have yet
+composed, especially the last movement. I have not yet decided on
+the _adagio_, and think I shall reserve it for Naples. "Verleih uns
+Frieden" is completed, and "Wir glauben all" will also be ready in
+a few days. The Scotch symphony alone is not yet quite to my
+liking; if any brilliant idea occurs to me, I will seize it at
+once, quickly write it down, and finish it at last.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, March 1st, 1831.
+
+While I write this date, I shrink from the thought of how time
+flies. Before this month is at an end the Holy Week begins, and
+when it is over, my stay in Rome will be drawing to a close. I now
+try to reflect whether I have made the best use of my time, and on
+every side I perceive a deficiency. If I could only compass one of
+my two symphonies! I must and will reserve the Italian one till I
+have seen Naples, which must play a part in it, but the other also
+seems to elude my grasp; the more I try to seize it and the nearer
+the end of this delightful quiet Roman period approaches, the more
+am I perplexed, and the less do I seem to succeed. I feel as if it
+will be long indeed before I can write again as freely as here, and
+so I am eager to finish what I have to do, but I make no progress.
+The "Walpurgis Night" alone gets on quickly, and I hope it will
+soon be accomplished. Besides, I cannot resist every day sketching,
+that I may carry away with me reminiscences of my favourite haunts.
+There is still much that I wish to see, so I perfectly well know
+that this month will suddenly come to an end, and much remain
+undone; and indeed it is quite too beautiful here.
+
+Rome is considerably changed, and neither so gay nor so cheerful as
+formerly.[16] Almost all my acquaintances are gone; the promenades
+and streets are deserted, the galleries closed, and it is
+impossible to gain admittance into them. All news from without
+almost entirely fails us, (for we saw the details about Bologna
+first in the 'Allgemeine Zeitung' yesterday;) people seldom or
+never congregate together; in fact, everything has subsided into
+entire rest; but then the weather is lovely, and no one can deprive
+us of this warm, balmy atmosphere. Those who are most to be pitied
+in the present state of affairs are the Vernet ladies, who are
+unpleasantly situated here. The hatred of the entire Roman populace
+is, strangely enough, directed against the French Pensionaries,
+believing that their influence alone could easily effect a
+revolution. Threatening anonymous letters have been repeatedly sent
+to Vernet; indeed he one day found an armed Transteverin stationed
+in front of the windows of his studio, who however took to flight
+when Vernet fetched his gun: and as the ladies are now entirely
+alone, and isolated in the villa, their family are naturally very
+uneasy. Still all continues quiet and serene within the city, and I
+am quite convinced it will remain so.
+
+  [16] Some disturbances had in the meantime broken out in the
+  Ecclesiastical States, at Bologna.
+
+The German painters are really more contemptible than I can tell
+you. Not only have they cut off their whiskers and moustaches, and
+their long hair and beards, openly declaring that as soon as all
+danger is at an end they will let them grow again, but these tall
+stalwart fellows go home as soon as it is dark, lock themselves in,
+and discuss their fears together. They call Horace Vernet a
+braggart, and yet he is very different from these miserable
+creatures, whose conduct makes me cordially despise them. Latterly
+I occasionally visited some of the modern studios. Thorwaldsen has
+just finished a statue in clay of Lord Byron. He is seated amidst
+ancient ruins, his feet resting on the capital of a column, while
+he is gazing into the distance, evidently about to write something
+on the tablets he holds in his hand. He is represented not in Roman
+costume, but in a simple modern dress, and I think it looks well,
+and does not destroy the general effect. The statue has the natural
+air and easy pose so remarkable in all this sculptor's works, and
+yet the poet looks sufficiently gloomy and elegiac, though not
+affected. I must some day write you a whole letter about the
+'Triumph of Alexander,' for never did any piece of sculpture make
+such an impression on me; I go there every week, and stand gazing
+at that alone, and enter Babylon along with the Conqueror. I lately
+called on A----; he has brought with him some admirable pencil
+sketches from Naples and Sicily, so I should be glad to take some
+hints from him, but I fear that he is a considerable exaggerator,
+and does not sketch faithfully. His landscape of the Colosseum,
+at H. B., is a beautiful romance; for I cannot say that in
+the original I ever perceived woods of large cypresses and
+orange-trees, or fountains or thickets in the centre, extending to
+the ruins. Moreover, _his_ moustaches have also disappeared.
+
+I have something amusing to tell you in conclusion. I wish, O my
+Fanny, that as a contrast to your Sunday harmony you had heard the
+music we perpetrated last Sunday evening. We wished to sing the
+Psalms of Marcello, being Lent, and the best dilettanti
+consequently assembled. A Papal singer was in the middle, a
+_maestro_ at the piano, and we sang. When a soprano solo came, all
+the ladies pressed forward, each insisting on singing it, so it was
+executed as a _tutti_. The tenor by my side never alighted on the
+right note, and rambled about in the most insecure regions. When I
+chimed in as second tenor, he dropped into my part, and when I
+tried to assist him, he seemed to think that was my original part,
+and kept steadily to his own. The Papal singer at one instant sang
+in the soprano falsetto, and presently took the first bass; soon
+after he quaked out the _alt_, and when all that was of no avail,
+he smiled sorrowfully across at me, and we nodded mysteriously to
+each other. The _maestro_, in striving to set us all right,
+repeatedly lost his own place, being a bar behind, or one in
+advance, and thus we sang with the most complete anarchy, just as
+we thought fit. Suddenly came a very solemn solo passage for the
+bass, which _all_ attacked valiantly, but at the second bar broke
+into a chorus of loud laughter, in which we unanimously joined, so
+the affair ended in high good-humour. The people who had come as
+audience talked at the pitch of their voices, and then went out and
+dispersed. Eynard came in and listened to our music for a time,
+then made a horrid grimace, and was seen no more. Farewell! Health
+and happiness attend you all!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, March 15th, 1831.
+
+The letters of introduction that R---- sent me, have been of no use
+to me here. L---- likewise, to whom I was presented by Bunsen, has
+not taken the smallest notice of me, and tries to look the other
+way when we meet. I rather suspect the man is an aristocrat. Albani
+admitted me, so I had the honour of conversing for half an hour
+with a Cardinal. After reading the introductory letter, he asked me
+if I was a pensioner of the King of Hanover. "No," said I. He
+supposed that I must have seen St. Peter's? "Yes," said I. As I
+knew Meyerbeer, he assured me that he could not endure his music;
+it was too scientific for him; indeed, everything he wrote was so
+learned, and so devoid of melody, that you at once saw that he was
+a German, and the Germans, _mon ami_, have not the most remote
+conception of what melody is! "No," said I. "In _my_ scores,"
+continued he, "all sing; not only the voices sing, but also the
+first violin sings, and the second violin also, and the oboe sings,
+and so it goes on, even to the horns, and last of all the
+double-bass sings too." I was naturally desirous, in all humility,
+to see some of his music; he was modest, however, and would show me
+nothing, but he said that wishing to make my stay in Rome a
+agreeable as possible, he hoped I would pay a visit to his villa,
+and I might take as many of my friends with me as I chose. It was
+near such and such a place. I thanked him very much, and
+subsequently boasted considerably of this gracious permission; but
+presently discovered that this villa is open to the public, and any
+one can go there who chooses. Since that time I have heard no more
+of him, and as this and some other instances have inspired me with
+respect, mingled with aversion, towards the highest Roman circles,
+I resolved not to deliver the letter to Gabrielli, and was
+satisfied by having the whole Bonaparte family pointed out to me on
+the promenade, where I met them daily.
+
+I think Mizkiewicz very tiresome. He possesses that kind of
+indifference which bores both himself and others, though the ladies
+persist in designating it melancholy and lassitude; but this makes
+it no better in my eyes. If he looks at St. Peter's, he deplores
+the times of the hierarchy; if the sky is blue and beautiful, he
+wishes it were dull and gloomy; if it is gloomy, he is freezing; if
+he sees the Colosseum, he wishes he had lived at that period. I
+wonder what sort of a figure he would have made in the days of
+Titus!
+
+You inquire about Horace Vernet, and this is, indeed, a pleasant
+theme. I believe I may say that I have learned something from him,
+and every one may do the same. He produces with incredible facility
+and freshness. When a form meets his eye which touches his
+feelings, he instantly adopts it, and while others are deliberating
+whether it can be called beautiful, and praising or censuring, he
+has long completed his work, entirely deranging our aesthetical
+standard. Though this facility cannot be acquired, still its
+principle is admirable, and the serenity which springs from it, and
+the energy it calls forth in working, nothing else can replace.
+
+Among the alleys of evergreen trees, where at this season of
+blossoms the fragrance is so charming, in the midst of the
+shrubberies and gardens of the Villa Medicis, stands a small house,
+in which as you approach you invariably hear a tumult,--shouting
+and wrangling, or a piece executed on a trumpet, or the barking of
+dogs; this is Vernet's _atelier_. The most picturesque disorder
+everywhere prevails; guns, a hunting-horn, a monkey, palettes, a
+couple of dead hares or rabbits; the walls covered with pictures,
+finished and unfinished. "The Investiture of the National Cockade"
+(an eccentric picture which does not please me), portraits recently
+begun of Thorwaldsen, Eynard, Latour-Maubourg, some horses, a
+sketch of Judith, and studies for it; the portrait of the Pope, a
+couple of Moorish heads, bagpipers, Papal soldiers, my unworthy
+self, Cain and Abel, and last of all a drawing of the interior of
+the place itself, all hang up in his studio.
+
+Lately his hands were quite full, owing to the number of portraits
+bespoken from him; but in the street, he saw one of the Campagna
+peasants, who are armed and mounted by Government, and ride about
+Rome. The singular costume caught the artist's eye, and next day he
+began a picture representing a similar peasant, sitting on his
+horse in bad weather in the Campagna, and seizing his gun in order
+to take aim at some one with it; in the distance are visible a
+small troop of soldiers, and the desolate plain. The minute details
+of the weapon, where the peasant peeps through the soldier's
+uniform, the wretched horse and its shabby trappings, the
+discomfort prevalent throughout, and the Italian phlegm in the
+bearded fellow, make a charming little picture; and no one can help
+envying him, who sees the real delight with which his brush
+traverses the stretched canvas, at one moment putting in a little
+rivulet, and a couple of soldiers, and a button on the saddle; then
+lining the soldier's great-coat with green. Numbers of people come
+to look on: during my first sitting twenty persons, at least,
+arrived one after the other. Countess E---- asked him to allow her
+to be present when he was at work; but when he darted on it as a
+hungry man does on food, her amazement was great. The whole family
+are, as I told you, good people, and when old Charles talks about
+his father Joseph, you must feel respect for them, and I maintain
+that they are noble. Good-bye, for it is late, and I must send my
+letter to the Post.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, March 29th, 1831.
+
+In the midst of the Holy Week. To-morrow for the first time I am to
+hear the Miserere, and while you last Sunday performed "The
+Passion," the Cardinals and all the priesthood here received
+twisted palms and olive-branches. The Stabat Mater of Palestrina
+was sung, and there was a grand procession. My work has got on
+badly during the last few days. Spring is in all her bloom; a
+genial blue sky without, such as we at most only dream of, and a
+journey to Naples in my every thought; so even a quiet time to
+write is not to be found. C----, who is usually a cool fellow, has
+written me such a glowing letter from Naples! The most prosaic men
+become poetical when they speak of it. The finest season of the
+year in Italy, is from the 15th of April to the 15th of May. Who
+can wonder that I find it impossible to return to my misty Scotch
+mood? I have therefore laid aside the Scotch symphony for the
+present, but hope to write out the "Walpurgis Night" here. I shall
+manage to do so if I work hard to-day and to-morrow, and if we have
+bad weather, for really a fine day is too great a temptation. As
+soon as an impediment occurs, I hope to find some resource in the
+open air, so I go out and think of anything and everything but my
+composition, and do nothing but lounge about, and when the church
+bells begin to ring, it is the Ave Maria already. All I want now is
+a short overture. If I can accomplish this, the thing is complete,
+and I can write it out in a couple of days. Then I have done with
+music, and leaving all music-paper here, I shall go off to Naples,
+where, please God, I mean to do nothing.
+
+Two French friends of mine have tempted me to _flaner_ with them a
+good deal of late. When they are together, it is either a perpetual
+tragedy, or comedy,--as you will. Y---- distorts everything,
+without a spark of talent, always groping in the dark, but
+esteeming himself the creator of a new world; writing moreover the
+most frightful things, and yet dreaming and thinking of nothing but
+Beethoven, Schiller, and Goethe; a victim at the same time to the
+most boundless vanity, and looking down condescendingly on Mozart
+and Haydn, so that all his enthusiasm seems to me very doubtful.
+Z---- has been toiling for three months at a little rondo on a
+Portuguese theme; he arranges neatly and brilliantly, and according
+to rule, and he now intends to set about composing six waltzes, and
+is in a state of perfect ecstasy if I will only play him over a
+number of Vienna waltzes. He has a high esteem for Beethoven, but
+also for Rossini and for Bellini, and no doubt for Auber,--in
+short, for everybody. Then my turn comes to be praised, who would
+be only too glad to murder Y----, till he chances to eulogize
+Gluck, when I can quite agree with him. I like nevertheless to walk
+about with these two, for they are the only musicians here, and
+both very pleasant, amiable persons. All this forms an amusing
+contrast.
+
+You say, dear mother, that Y---- must have a fixed aim in his art;
+but this is far from being my opinion. I believe he wishes to be
+married, and is in fact worse than the other, because he is by far
+the most affected of the two. I really cannot stand his obtrusive
+enthusiasm, and the gloomy despondency he assumes before
+ladies,--this stereotyped genius in black and white; and if he were
+not a Frenchman, (and it is always pleasant to associate with them,
+as they have invariably something interesting to say,) it would be
+beyond endurance. A week hence, I shall probably write you my last
+letter from Rome, and then you shall hear of me from Naples. It is
+still quite uncertain whether I go to Sicily or not; I almost think
+not, as in any event I must have recourse to a steamboat, and it is
+not yet settled that one is to go.
+
+         In haste, yours, FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, April 4th, 1831.
+
+The Holy Week is over, and my passport to Naples prepared. My room
+begins to look empty, and my winter in Rome is now among my
+reminiscences of the past. I intend to leave this in a few days,
+and my next letter (D. V.) shall be from Naples. Interesting and
+amusing as the winter in Rome has been, it has closed with a truly
+memorable week; for what I have seen and heard far surpassed my
+expectations, and being the conclusion, I will endeavour in this,
+my last letter from Rome, to give you a full description of it
+all. People have often both zealously praised and censured the
+ceremonies of the Holy Week, and have yet omitted, as is often the
+case, the chief point, namely its perfection as a complete whole.
+My father may probably remember the description of Mdlle. de R----,
+who after all only did what most people do, who write or talk about
+music and art, when in a hoarse and prosaic voice she attempted at
+dinner to give us some idea of the fine clear Papal choir. Many
+others have given the mere music, and been dissatisfied, because
+external adjuncts are required to produce the full effect. Those
+persons may be in the right; still so long as these indispensable
+externals are there, and especially in such entire perfection, so
+long will it impress others; and just as I feel convinced that
+place, time, order, the vast crowd of human beings awaiting in the
+most profound silence the moment for the music to begin, contribute
+largely to the effect, so do I contemn the idea of deliberately
+separating what ought in fact to be indivisible, and this for the
+purpose of exhibiting a certain portion, which may thus be
+depreciated. That man must be despicable indeed, on whom the
+devotion and reverence of a vast assemblage did not make a
+corresponding impression of devotion and reverence, even if they
+were worshipping the Golden Calf; let him alone destroy this, who
+can replace it by something better.
+
+Whether one person repeats it from another, whether it comes up to
+its great reputation, or is merely the effect of the imagination,
+is quite the same thing. It suffices that we have a perfect
+totality, which has exercised the most powerful influence for
+centuries past, and still exercises it, and therefore I reverence
+it, as I do every species of real perfection. I leave it to
+theologians to pronounce on its religious influence, for the
+various opinions on that point are of no great value. There is more
+to be considered than the mere ceremonies: for me it is sufficient,
+as I already said, that in any sphere the object should be fully
+carried out, so far as ability will permit, with fidelity and
+conscientiousness, to call forth my respect and sympathy. Thus you
+must not expect from me a formal critique on the singing, as to
+whether they intoned correctly or incorrectly, in tune or out of
+tune, or whether the compositions are fine. I would rather strive
+to show you, that as a whole the affair cannot fail to make a
+solemn impression, and that everything contributes to this result,
+and as last week I enjoyed music, forms, and ceremonies, without
+severing them, revelling in the perfect whole, so I do not intend
+to separate them in this letter. The technical part, to which I
+naturally paid particular attention, I mean to detail more minutely
+to Zelter.
+
+The first ceremony was on Palm Sunday, when the concourse of people
+was so great, that I could not make my way through the crowd to my
+usual place on what is called the Prelates' Bench, but was forced
+to remain among the Guard of Honour, where indeed I had a very good
+view of the solemnities, but could not follow the singing
+properly, as they pronounced the words very indistinctly, and on
+that day I had no book. The result was that on this first day, the
+various antiphons, Gospels, and Psalms, and the mode of chanting,
+instead of reading, which is employed here in its primitive form,
+made the most confused and singular impression on me. I had no
+clear conception what rule they followed with regard to the various
+cadences. I took considerable pains gradually to discover their
+method, and succeeded so well, that at the end of the Holy Week I
+could have sung with them. I thus also escaped the extreme
+weariness, so universally complained of during the endless Psalms
+before the Miserere; for I quickly detected any variety in the
+monotony, and when perfectly assured of any particular cadence, I
+instantly wrote it down; so I made out by degrees (which indeed I
+deserved) the melodies of eight Psalms. I also noted down the
+antiphons, etc., and was thus incessantly occupied and interested.
+
+The first Sunday, however, as I already told you, I could not make
+it all out satisfactorily: I only knew that the choir sang "Hosanna
+in excelsis," and intoned various hymns, while twisted palms were
+offered to the Pope, which he distributed among the Cardinals.
+These palms are long branches decorated with buttons, crosses, and
+crowns, all entirely made of dried palm-leaves, which makes them
+look like gold. The Cardinals, who are seated in the Chapel in the
+form of a quadrangle, with the abbati at their feet, now advance
+each in turn to receive their palms, with which they return to
+their places; then come the bishops, monks, abbati, and all the
+other orders of the priesthood; the Papal singers, the knights, and
+others, who receive olive-branches entwined with palm-leaves. This
+makes a long procession, during which the choir continues to sing
+unremittingly. The abbati hold the long palms of their cardinals
+like the lances of sentinels, slanting them on the ground before
+them, and at this moment there is a brilliancy of colour in the
+chapel that I never before saw at any ceremony. There were the
+Cardinals in their gold embroidered robes and red caps, and the
+violet abbati in front of them, with golden palms in their hands,
+and further in advance, the gaudy servants of the Pope, the Greek
+priests, the patriarchs in the most gorgeous attire; the Capuchins
+with long white beards, and all the other religious Orders; then
+again the Swiss, in their popinjay uniforms, all carrying green
+olive-branches, while singing is going on the whole time; though
+certainly it is scarcely possible to distinguish what is being
+sung, yet the mere sound is sufficient to delight the ear.
+
+The Pope's throne is then carried in, on which he is elevated in
+all processions, and where I saw Pius VIII. enthroned on the day of
+my arrival (_vide_ the 'Heliodorus' of Raphael, where he is
+portrayed). The Cardinals, two and two, with their palms, head the
+procession, and the folding doors of the chapel being thrown open,
+it slowly defiles through them. The singing, which has hitherto
+incessantly prevailed, like an element, becomes fainter and
+fainter, for the singers also walk in the procession, and at length
+are only indistinctly heard, the sound dying away in the distance.
+Then a choir in the chapel bursts forth with a query, to which the
+distant one breathes a faint response; and so it goes on for a
+time, till the procession again draws near, and the choirs reunite.
+Let them sing how or what they please, this cannot fail to produce
+a fine effect; and though it is quite true that nothing can be more
+monotonous, and even devoid of form, than the hymns _all' unisono_,
+being without any proper connection, and sung _fortissimo_
+throughout, still I appeal to the impression that as a _whole_ it
+must make on every one. After the procession returns, the Gospel is
+chanted in the most singular tone, and is succeeded by the Mass. I
+must not omit here to make mention of my favourite moment; I mean
+the Credo. The priest takes his place for the first time in the
+centre, before the altar, and after a short pause, intones in his
+hoarse old voice the Credo of Sebastian Bach. When he has finished,
+the priests stand up, the Cardinals leave their seats, and advance
+into the middle of the chapel, where they form a circle, all
+repeating the continuation in a loud voice, "Patrem omnipotentem,"
+etc. The choir then chimes in, singing the same words. When I for
+the first time heard my well-known
+
+  [Music: Cre-do in u-num De-um]
+
+and all the grave monks round me began to recite in loud and eager
+tones, I felt quite excited, for this is the moment I still like
+the best of all. After the ceremony, Santini made me a present of
+his olive-branch, which I carried in my hand the whole day when
+I was walking about, for the weather was beautiful. The Stabat
+Mater which succeeds the Credo, made much less effect; they
+sang it incorrectly and out of tune, and likewise curtailed it
+considerably. The 'Sing Akademie' executes it infinitely better.
+There is nothing on Monday or Tuesday; but on Wednesday, at
+half-past four, the nocturns begin.
+
+The Psalms are sung in alternate verses by two choirs, though
+invariably by one class of voices, basses or tenors. For an hour
+and a half, therefore, nothing but the most monotonous music is
+heard; the Psalms are only once interrupted by the Lamentations,
+and this is the first moment when, after a long time, a complete
+chord is given. This chord is very softly intoned, and the whole
+piece sung _pianissimo_, while the Psalms are shouted out as much
+as possible, and always upon one note, and the words uttered with
+the utmost rapidity, a cadence occurring at the end of each verse,
+which defines the different characteristics of the various
+melodies. It is not therefore surprising that the mere soft sound
+(in G major) of the first Lamentation, should produce so touching
+an effect. Once more the single tone recommences; a wax light is
+extinguished at the end of each Psalm, so that in the course of an
+hour and a half the fifteen lights round the altar are all out; six
+large-sized candles still burn in the vestibule. The whole strength
+of the choir, with alti and soprani, etc., intone _fortissimo_ and
+_unisono_, a new melody, the "Canticum Zachariae," in D minor,
+singing it slowly and solemnly in the deepening gloom; the last
+remaining lights are then extinguished. The Pope leaves his throne,
+and falls on his knees before the altar, while all around do the
+same, repeating a paternoster _sub silentio_; that is, a pause
+ensues, during which you know that each Catholic present says the
+Lord's Prayer, and immediately afterwards the Miserere begins
+_pianissimo_ thus:--
+
+  [Music: mi-se-re-re me-i]
+
+This is to me the most sublime moment of the whole. You can easily
+picture to yourself what follows, but not this commencement. The
+continuation, which is the Miserere of Allegri, is a simple
+sequence of chords, grounded either on tradition, or what appears
+to me much more probable, merely embellishments, introduced by some
+clever _maestro_ for the fine voices at his disposal, and
+especially for a very high soprano. These _embellimenti_ always
+recur on the same chords, and as they are cleverly constructed,
+and beautifully adapted for the voice, it is invariably pleasing to
+hear them repeated. I could not discover anything unearthly or
+mysterious in the music; indeed, I am perfectly contented that its
+beauty should be earthly and comprehensible. I refer you, dearest
+Fanny, to my letter to Zelter. On the first day they sang Baini's
+Miserere.
+
+On Thursday, at nine o'clock in the morning, the solemnities
+recommenced, and lasted till one o'clock. There was High Mass, and
+afterwards a procession. The Pope conferred his benediction from
+the Loggia of the Quirinal, and washed the feet of thirteen
+priests, who are supposed to represent the pilgrims, and were
+seated in a row, wearing white gowns and white caps, and who
+afterwards dine. The crowd of English ladies was extraordinary, and
+the whole affair repugnant to my feelings. The Psalms began again
+in the afternoon, and lasted on this occasion till half past seven.
+Some portions of the Miserere were taken from Baini, but the
+greater part were Allegri's. It was almost dark in the chapel when
+the Miserere commenced. I clambered up a tall ladder standing there
+by chance, and so I had the whole chapel crowded with people, and
+the kneeling Pope and his Cardinals, and the music, beneath me. It
+had a splendid effect. On Friday forenoon the chapel was stripped
+of every decoration, and the Pope and Cardinals in mourning. The
+history of the Passion, according to St. John, the music by
+Vittoria, was sung; then the Improperia of Palestrina, during
+which the Pope and all the others, taking off their shoes, advance
+to the cross and adore it. In the evening Baini's Miserere was
+given, which they sang infinitely the best.
+
+Early on Saturday, in the baptistery of the Lateran, Heathens,
+Jews, and Mahomedans were baptized, all represented by a little
+child, who screeched the whole time, and subsequently some young
+priests received consecration for the first time. On Sunday the
+Pope himself performed High Mass in the Quirinal, and subsequently
+pronounced his benediction on the people, and then all was over. It
+is now Saturday, the 9th of April, and to-morrow at an early hour I
+get into a carriage and set off for Naples, where a new style of
+beauty awaits me. You will perceive by the end of this letter that
+I write in haste. This is my last day, and a great deal yet to be
+done. I do not therefore finish my letter to Zelter, but will send
+it from Naples. I wish my description to be correct, and my
+approaching journey distracts my attention sadly. Thus I am off to
+Naples; the weather is clearing up, and the sun shining, which it
+has not done for some days past. My passport is prepared, the
+carriage ordered, and I am looking forward to the months of spring.
+Adieu!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Naples, April 13th, 1831.
+
+     Dear Rebecca,
+
+This must stand in lieu of a birthday letter: may it wear a holiday
+aspect for you! It arrives late in the day, but with equally
+sincere good wishes. Your birthday itself I passed in a singular
+but delightful manner, though I could not write, having neither
+pens nor ink; in fact, I was in the very middle of the Pontine
+Marshes. May the ensuing year bring you every happiness, and may we
+meet somewhere! If you were thinking of me on that day, our
+thoughts must have met either on the Brenner or at Inspruck; for I
+was constantly thinking of you. Even without looking at the date of
+this letter, you will at once perceive by its tone that I am in
+Naples. I have not yet been able to compass one serious quiet
+reflection, there is everywhere such jovial life here, inviting you
+to do nothing, and to think of nothing, and even the example of so
+many thousand people has an irresistible influence. I do not indeed
+intend that this should continue, but I see plainly that it must go
+on for the first few days. I stand for hours on my balcony, gazing
+at Vesuvius and the Bay.
+
+But I must now endeavour to resume my old descriptive style, or my
+materials will accumulate so much that I shall become confused, and
+I fear you may not be able to follow me properly. So much that is
+novel crowds on me, that a journal would be requisite to detail to
+you my life and my state of excitement. So I begin by acknowledging
+that I deeply regretted leaving Rome. My life there was so quiet,
+and yet so full of interest, having made many kind and friendly
+acquaintances, with whom I had become so domesticated, that the
+last days of my stay, with all their discomforts and perpetual
+running about, seemed doubly odious. The last evening I went to
+Vernet's to thank him for my portrait, which is now finished, and
+to take leave of him. We had some music, talked politics, and
+played chess, and then I went down the Monte Pincio to my own
+house, packed up my things, and the next morning drove off with my
+travelling companions. As I gazed out of the cabriolet at the
+scenery, I could dream to my heart's desire. When we arrived at our
+night quarters, we all went out walking. The two days glided past
+more like a pleasure excursion than a journey.
+
+The road from Rome to Naples is indeed the most luxuriant that I
+know, and the whole mode of travelling most agreeable. You fly
+through the plain; for a very slight gratuity the postilions gallop
+their horses like mad, which is very advisable in the Marshes. If
+you wish to contemplate the scenery, you have only to abstain from
+offering any gratuity, and you are soon driven slowly enough. The
+road from Albano, by Ariccia and Genzano, as far as Velletri, runs
+between hills, and is shaded by trees of every kind; uphill and
+downhill, through avenues of elms, past monasteries and shrines. On
+one side is the Campagna, with its heather, and its bright hues;
+beyond comes the sea, glittering charmingly in the sunshine, and
+above, the clearest sky; for since Sunday morning the weather has
+been glorious.
+
+Well! we drove into Velletri, our night quarters, where a great
+Church festival was going on. Handsome women with primitive faces
+were pacing the alleys in groups, and men were standing together
+wrapped in cloaks, in the street. The church was decorated with
+garlands of green leaves, and as we drove past it we heard the
+sounds of a double bass and some violins; fireworks were prepared
+in the square; the sun went down clear and serene, and the Pontine
+Marshes, with their thousand colours, and the rocks rearing their
+heads one by one against the horizon, indicated the course we were
+to pursue on the following day. After supper I resolved to go out
+again for a short time, and discovered a kind of illumination; the
+streets were swarming with people, and when I at last came to the
+spot where the church stood, I saw, on turning the corner, that the
+whole street had burning torches on each side, and in the middle
+the people were walking up and down, crowding together, and pleased
+to see each other so distinctly at night. I cannot tell you what a
+pretty sight it was. The concourse was greatest before the church;
+I pressed forward into it along with the rest. The little building
+was filled with people kneeling, adoring the Host, which was
+exposed; no one spoke a word, nor was there any music. This
+stillness, the lighted church, and the many kneeling women with
+white handkerchiefs on their heads, and white gowns, had a striking
+effect. When I left the church a shrewd, handsome Italian boy
+explained the whole festival, assuring me that it would have been
+far finer had it not been for the recent disturbances, for they had
+been the cause of depriving the people of the horseraces, and
+barrels of pitch, etc., and on this account it was unlucky that the
+Austrians had not come sooner.
+
+The following morning, at six o'clock, we pursued our way through
+the Pontine Marshes. It is a species of Bergstrasse. You drive
+through a straight avenue of trees along a plain. On one side of
+the avenue is a continued chain of hills, on the other the Marshes.
+They are, however, covered with innumerable flowers, which smell
+very sweet; but in the long-run this becomes very stupefying, and I
+distinctly felt the oppression of the atmosphere, in spite of the
+fine weather. A canal runs along beside the _chaussee_, constructed
+by the orders of Pius VI. to form a conduit for the marshes, where
+we saw a number of buffaloes wallowing, their heads emerging out of
+the water, and apparently enjoying themselves. The straight, level
+road has a singular appearance. You see the chain of hills at the
+end of the avenue when you come to the first station, and again at
+the second and third, the only difference being that as you advance
+so many miles nearer, the hills loom gradually larger. Terracina,
+which is situated exactly at the end of this avenue, is invisible
+till you come quite close to it. On making a sudden turn to the
+left, round the corner of a rock, the whole expanse of the sea lies
+before you. Citron-gardens, and palms, and a variety of plants of
+Southern growth, clothe the declivity in front of the town; towers
+appearing above the thickets, and the harbour projecting into the
+sea. To me, the finest object in nature is, and always will be,
+the ocean. I love it almost more than the sky. Nothing in Naples
+made a more enchanting impression on my mind than the sea, and I
+always feel happy when I see before me the spacious surface of
+waters.
+
+The South, properly speaking, begins at Terracina. This is another
+land, and every plant and every bush reminds you of it. Above all,
+the two mighty ridges of hills delighted me, between which the road
+runs; they were totally devoid of bushes or trees, but clothed
+entirely with masses of golden wall-flowers, so that they had a
+bright yellow hue, and the fragrance was almost too strong. There
+is a great want of grass and large trees. The old robbers' nests of
+Fondi and Itri looked very piratical and gloomy. The houses are
+built against the walls of the rocks, and there are likewise some
+large towers of the date of the Middle Ages. Many sentinels and
+posts were stationed on the tops of the hills; but we made out our
+journey without any adventure. We remained all night in Mola di
+Gaeta; there we saw the renowned balcony whence you look over
+orange and citron groves to the blue sea, with Vesuvius and the
+islands in the far distance. This was on the 11th of April. As I
+had been celebrating your birthday all day long in my own thoughts,
+I could not in the evening resist informing my companions that it
+was your birthday; so your health was drunk again and again. An old
+Englishman, who was of the party, wished me a "happy return to my
+sister." I emptied the glass to your health, and thought of you.
+Remain unchanged till we meet again.
+
+With such thoughts in my head, I went in the evening to the
+citron-garden, close to the sea-shore, and listened to the waves
+rolling in from afar, and breaking on the shore, and sometimes
+gently rippling and splashing. It was indeed a heavenly night.
+Among a thousand other thoughts, Grillparzer's poem recurred to my
+memory, which it is almost impossible to set to music; for which
+reason, I suppose, Fanny has composed a charming melody on it; but
+I do not jest when I say that I sang the song over repeatedly to
+myself, for I was standing on the very spot he describes. The sea
+had subsided, and was now calm, and at rest; this was the first
+song. The second followed next day, for the sea was like a meadow
+or pure ether as you gazed at it, and pretty women nodded their
+heads, and so did olives and cypresses; but they were all equally
+brown, so I remained in a poetic mood.
+
+What is it that shines through the leaves, and glitters like gold?
+Only cartridges and sabres; for the King had been reviewing some
+troops in Sant' Agata, and soldiers defiled on both sides of the
+path, who had the more merit in my eyes because they resembled the
+Prussians, and for a long time past I have seen only Papal
+soldiers. Some carried dark-lanterns on their muskets, as they had
+been marching all night. The whole effect was bold and gay. We now
+came to a short rocky pass, from which you descend into the valley
+of Campana, the most enchanting spot I have ever seen; it is like
+a boundless garden, covered entirely with plants and vegetation as
+far as the eye can reach. On one side are the blue outlines of the
+sea, on the other an undulating range of hills above which snowy
+peaks project; and at a great distance Vesuvius and the islands,
+bathed in blue vapours, start up on the level surface; large
+avenues of trees intersect the vast space, and a verdant growth
+forces its way from under every stone. Everywhere you see grotesque
+aloes and cactuses, and the fragrance and vegetation are quite
+unparalleled.
+
+The pleasure we enjoy in England through men, we here enjoy through
+nature; and as there is no corner there, however small, of which
+some one has not taken possession in order to cultivate and adorn
+it, so here there is no spot which Nature has not appropriated,
+bringing forth on it flowers and herbs, and all that is beautiful.
+The Campana valley is fruitfulness itself. On the whole of the vast
+immeasurable surface bounded in the far distance by blue hills and
+a blue sea, nothing but green meets the eye. At last you come to
+Capua. I cannot blame Hannibal for remaining too long there. From
+Capua to Naples the road runs uninterruptedly between trees, with
+hanging vines, till at the end of the avenue, Vesuvius, and the
+sea, with Capri, and a mass of houses, lie before you. I am living
+here in St. Lucia as if in heaven; for in the first place I see
+before me Vesuvius, and the hills as far as Castellamare, and the
+bay, and in the second place, I am living up three stories high.
+Unfortunately that traitor Vesuvius does not smoke at all, and
+looks precisely like any other fine mountain; but at night the
+people float in lighted boats on the Bay, to catch sword-fish. This
+has a pretty enough effect. Farewell!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Naples, April 10th, 1831.
+
+We are so accustomed to find that everything turns out quite
+differently from what we expected and calculated, that you will
+feel no surprise when instead of a letter like a journal, you
+receive a very short one, merely saying that I am quite well, and
+little else.
+
+As for the scenery, I cannot describe it, and if you have no
+conception of what it really is, after all that has been said and
+written on the subject, there is little chance of my enlightening
+you; for what makes it so indescribably beautiful, is precisely
+that it is not of a nature to admit of description. Any other
+detail I could send you would be about my life here; but it is so
+simple, that a very few words suffice to depict it. I do not wish
+to make any acquaintances, for I am resolved not to remain here
+longer than a few weeks. I intend to make various excursions to see
+the country, and all I desire here, is to become thoroughly
+intimate with nature: so I go to bed at nine o'clock, and rise at
+five, to refresh myself by gazing from my balcony at Vesuvius, the
+sea, and the coast of Sorrento, in the bright morning light. I
+have also taken very long solitary rambles, discovering beautiful
+views for myself, and I have infinite satisfaction in finding that
+what I consider the loveliest spot of all is almost entirely
+unknown to the Neapolitans. During these excursions I sought out
+some house on a height, to which I scrambled up; or else merely
+followed any path I fancied, allowing myself to be surprised by
+night and moonshine, and making acquaintance with vine-dressers, in
+order to learn my way back; arriving at last at home about nine
+o'clock, very tired, through the Villa Reale. The view from this
+villa, of the sea and the enchanting Capri by moonlight, is truly
+charming, and so is the almost overpowering fragrance of the
+acacias in full bloom, and the fruit-trees scattered all over with
+rose-coloured blossoms, looking like trees with pink foliage,--all
+this is indeed quite indescribable.
+
+As I live chiefly with and in nature, I can write less than usual;
+perhaps we may talk it over when we meet, and the sketches in our
+sitting-room at home will furnish materials and reminiscences for
+conversation. One thing I must not however omit, dear Fanny, which
+is, that I quite approve of your taste when I recall what you told
+me years ago that your favorite spot was the island of Nisida.
+Perhaps you may have forgotten this, but I have not. It looks as if
+it were made expressly for pleasure-grounds. On emerging from the
+thicket of Bagnuolo, Nisida has quite a startling effect, rising
+out of the sea, so near, so large and so green; while the other
+islands, Procida, Ischia, and Capri, stand afar off, and indistinct
+in their blue tints. After the murder of Caesar, Brutus took refuge
+in this island, and Cicero visited him there; the sea lay between
+them then, and the rocks, covered with vegetation, bent over the
+sea, just as they do now. _These_ are the antiquities that interest
+me, and are infinitely more suggestive than crumbling mason-work.
+There is a degree of innate superstition and dishonesty among the
+people here that is totally inconceivable, and this has often even
+marred my pleasure in nature; for the Swiss, of whom my father
+complained so much, are positively guileless, primitive beings,
+compared with the Neapolitans. My landlord invariably gives me too
+little change for a piastre, and when I tell him of it, he coolly
+fetches the remainder. The only acquaintances I intend to make here
+are musical ones, that I may leave nothing incomplete,--for
+instance Fodor, who does not sing in public, Donizetti, Coccia,
+etc.
+
+I now conclude by a few words to you, dear Father. You write to me
+that you disapprove of my going to Sicily; I have consequently
+given up this plan, though I cannot deny that I do so with great
+reluctance, for it was really more than a mere _whim_ on my part.
+There is no danger to be apprehended, and, as if on purpose to vex
+me, a steamer leaves this city on the 4th of May, which is to make
+the entire tour; and a good many Germans, and probably the minister
+here, are to take advantage of it. I should have liked to see a
+mountain vomiting forth flames, as Vesuvius has been hitherto so
+unkind as not even to smoke. Your instructions however have till
+now so entirely coincided with my own inclinations, that I cannot
+allow the first opportunity I have of showing my obedience to your
+wishes (even when opposed to my own), to pass without complying
+with them, so I have effaced Sicily from my travelling route.
+Perhaps we may meet sooner in consequence of this; and now
+farewell, for I am going to walk to Capo di Monte.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Naples, April 27th, 1831.
+
+It is now nearly a fortnight since I have heard from you. I do
+earnestly hope that nothing unpleasant has occurred, and every day
+I expect the post will bring me tidings of you all. My letters from
+Naples are of little value, for I am too deeply absorbed here to be
+able easily to extricate myself, and to write descriptive letters.
+Besides, when we had bad weather lately, I took advantage of it to
+resume my labours, and zealously applied myself to my "Walpurgis
+Night," which daily increases in interest for me, so I employ every
+spare moment in completing it. I hope to finish it in a few days,
+and I think it will turn out well. If I continue in my present
+mood, I shall finish my Italian symphony also in Italy, in which
+case I shall have a famous store to bring home with me, the fruits
+of this winter. Moreover every day I have something new to see. I
+generally make my excursions with the Schadows.
+
+Yesterday we went to Pompeii. It looks as if it had been burnt
+down, or like a recently deserted city. As both of these always
+seem to me deeply affecting, the impression made on me was the most
+melancholy that I have yet experienced in Italy. It is as if the
+inhabitants had just gone out, and yet almost every object tells of
+another religion and another life; in short, of seventeen hundred
+years ago; and the French and English ladies scramble about as
+gaily as possible, and sketch it all. It is the old tragedy of the
+Past and the Present, a problem I never can solve. Lively Naples is
+indeed a pleasant contrast; but it is painful to see the crowd of
+wretched beggars who waylay you in every street and path, swarming
+round the carriage the instant it stops. The old white-haired men
+particularly distress me, and such a mass of misery exceeds all
+belief. If you are walking on the sea-shore, and gazing at the
+islands, and then chance to look round at the land, you find
+yourself the centre of a group of cripples, who make a trade of
+their infirmities; or you discover (which lately happened to me)
+that you are surrounded by thirty or forty children, all whining
+out their favourite phrase, "Muoio di fame," and rattling their
+jaws to show that they have nothing to eat. All this forms a most
+repulsive contrast; and yet to me it is still more repugnant that
+you must entirely renounce the great pleasure of seeing happy
+faces; for even when you have given the richest gratuities to
+guards, waiters, or workpeople, in short, to whom you will, the
+invariable rejoinder is, "Nienti di piu?" in which case you may be
+very sure that you have given too much. If it is the proper sum,
+they give it back with the greatest apparent indignation, and then
+return and beg to have it again. These are trifles, certainly, but
+they show the lamentable condition of the people. I have even gone
+so far as to feel provoked with the perpetual smiling aspect of
+nature, when in the most retired spots troops of beggars everywhere
+assailed me, some even persisting in following me a long way. It is
+only when I am quietly seated in my own room, gazing down on the
+Bay, and on Vesuvius, that being totally alone with them I feel
+really cheerful and happy.
+
+To-day we are to ascend the hill to visit the Camaldoli Monastery,
+and to-morrow, if the weather permits, we proceed to Procida and
+Ischia. I go this evening to Madame Fodor's with Donizetti,
+Benedict, etc. She is very kind and amiable towards me, and her
+singing has given me great pleasure, for she has wonderful
+facility, and executes her _fiorituri_ with so much taste, that it
+is easy to see how many things Sonntag acquired from her,
+especially the _mezza voce_, which Fodor, whose voice is no longer
+full and fresh, most prudently and judiciously introduces into many
+passages. As she is not singing at the theatre, I am most fortunate
+in having made her acquaintance personally. The theatre is now
+closed for some weeks, because the blood of St. Januarius is
+shortly to liquefy. What I heard at the opera previously did not
+repay the trouble of going. The orchestra, like that in Rome, was
+worse than in any part of Germany, and not even one tolerable
+female singer. Tamburini alone, with his vigorous bass voice,
+imparted some life to the whole. Those who wish to hear Italian
+operas, must now-a-days go to Paris or London. Heaven grant that
+this may not eventually be the case with German music also!
+
+I must however return to my "Witches," so you must forgive my not
+writing any more to-day. This whole letter seems to hover in
+uncertainty, or rather I do so in my "Walpurgis Night," whether I
+am to introduce the big drum or not. "Zacken, Gabeln, und wilde
+Klapperstoecke," seem to force me to the big drum, but moderation
+dissuades me. I certainly am the only person who ever composed for
+the scene on the Brocken without employing a piccolo-flute, but I
+can't help regretting the big drum, and before I can receive
+Fanny's advice, the "Walpurgis Night" will be finished and packed
+up. I shall then set off again on my travels, and Heaven knows what
+I may have in my head by that time. I feel convinced that Fanny
+would say _yes_; still, I feel very doubtful; at all events a vast
+noise is indispensable.
+
+Oh, Rebecca! can you not procure the words of some songs, and send
+them to me? I feel quite in the humour for them, and you must
+require something new to sing. If you can furnish me with some
+pretty verses, old or new, gay or grave, I will compose something
+in a style to suit your voice. I am at your service for any compact
+of this kind. Pray do send me wherewithal to work at, during my
+journey, in the inns. Now, farewell to you all! May you be as happy
+as I ever wish you to be, and think of me!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Naples, May 17th, 1831.
+
+On Saturday, the 14th of May, at two o'clock, I told my driver to
+turn the carriage. We were opposite the Temple of Ceres at Paestum,
+the most southern point of my journey. The carriage consequently
+turned towards the north, and from that moment, as I journey
+onwards, I am every hour drawing nearer to you. It is about a year
+now since I travelled with my father to Dessau and Leipzig; the
+time in fact exactly corresponds, for it was about the half-year. I
+have made good use of the past year. I have acquired considerable
+experience and many new impressions. Both in Rome and here I have
+been very busy, but no change has occurred in my outward
+circumstances; and till the beginning of the new year, in fact so
+long as I am in Italy, it will probably be the same. This period
+has not however been less valuable to me than some when outwardly,
+and in the opinion of others, I have appeared to make greater
+progress; for there must always be a close connection between the
+two. If I have gathered experience, it cannot fail to influence me
+outwardly, and I shall allow no opportunity to escape to show that
+it has done so. Possibly some such may occur before the end of my
+journey, so I may for the present continue to enjoy nature, and the
+blue sky, during the months that still remain for me in Italy,
+without thinking of anything else; for _there_ alone lies true art,
+now in Italy,--_there_ and in her monuments; and there it will ever
+remain; and there we shall ever find it, for our instruction and
+delight, so long as Vesuvius stands, and so long as the balmy air,
+and the sea, and the trees do not pass away.
+
+In spite of all this, I am enough of a musician to own that I do
+heartily long once more to hear an orchestra or a full chorus where
+there is at least some sound, for here there is nothing of the
+sort. This is _our_ peculiar province, and to be so long deprived
+of such an element, leaves a sad void. The orchestra and chorus
+here are like those in our second-rate provincial towns, only more
+harsh and incorrect. The first violinist, all through the opera,
+beats the four quarters of each bar on a tin candle-stick, which is
+often more distinctly heard than the voices (it sounds somewhat
+like obbligati castanets, only louder); and yet in spite of this
+the voices are never together. Every little instrumental solo is
+adorned with old-fashioned flourishes, and a bad tone pervades the
+whole performance, which is totally devoid of genius, fire, or
+spirit. The singers are the worst Italian ones I ever heard
+anywhere (except, indeed, in Italy), and those who wish to have a
+true idea of Italian singing must go to Paris or to London. Even
+the Dresden company, whom I heard last year in Leipzig, are
+superior to any here. This is but natural, for in the boundless
+misery that prevails in Naples, where can the bases of a theatre be
+found, which of course requires considerable capital? The days when
+every Italian was a born musician, if indeed they ever existed, are
+long gone by. They treat music like any other fashionable article,
+with total indifference; in fact, they scarcely pay it the homage
+of outward respect, so it is not to be wondered at that every
+single person of talent should, as regularly as they appear,
+transfer themselves to foreign countries, where they are better
+appreciated, their position better defined, and where they find
+opportunities of hearing and learning something profitable and
+inspiriting.
+
+The only really good singer here is Tamburini; he has, however,
+long since been heard in Vienna and Paris, and I believe in London
+also; so now, when he begins to discover that his voice is on the
+decline, he comes back to Italy. I cannot admit either that the
+Italians alone understand the art of singing; for there is no
+music, however florid. I have ever heard executed by Italians, that
+Sonntag cannot accomplish, and in even greater perfection. She
+certainly, as she acknowledges, learned much from Fodor; but why
+should not another German in turn learn the same from Sonntag? and
+Malibran is a Spaniard. Italy can no longer claim the glorious
+appellation of "the land of music;" in truth, she has already lost
+it, and possibly she may yet do so even in the opinion of the
+world, though this is problematical. I was lately in company with
+some professional musicians, who were speaking of a new opera by a
+Neapolitan, Coccia; and one of them asked if it was clever.
+"Probably it is," said another, "for Coccia was long in England,
+where he studied, and some of his compositions are much liked
+there." This struck me as very remarkable, for in England they
+would have spoken exactly in the same way of Italy; but _quo me
+rapis_? I say nothing to you, dear sisters, in this letter, but in
+the course of a few days I mean to send you a little pamphlet
+dedicated to you. Do not be alarmed, it is not poetry; the thing is
+simply entitled "Journal of an Excursion to the Islands, in May."
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Naples, May 28th, 1831.
+
+     My dear Sisters,
+
+As my journal is become too stupid and uninteresting to send you, I
+must at least supply you with an _abrege_ of my history. You must
+know, then, that on Friday, the 20th of May, we breakfasted _in
+corpore_ at Naples, on fruit, etc.; this _in corpore_ includes the
+travelling party to Ischia, consisting of Ed. Bendemann, T.
+Hildebrand, Carl Sohn, and Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy. My knapsack
+was not very heavy, for it contained scarcely anything but Goethe's
+poems, and three shirts; so we packed ourselves into a hired
+carriage, and drove through the grotto of Posilippo to Pozzuoli.
+The road runs along by the sea, and nothing can be more lovely; so
+it is all the more painful to witness the horrible collection of
+cripples, blind men, beggars, and galley slaves, in short, the poor
+wretches of every description who there await you, amid the holiday
+aspect of nature.
+
+I seated myself quietly on the mole and sketched, while the others
+plodded and toiled through the Temple of Serapis, the theatres, the
+hot springs, and extinct volcanoes, which I had already seen to
+satiety on three different occasions. Then, like youthful
+patriarchs or nomads, we collected all our goods and chattels,
+cloaks, knapsacks, books and portfolios on donkeys, and placing
+ourselves also on them, we made the tour of the Bay of Baiae, as far
+as the Lake of Avernus, where you are obliged to buy fish for
+dinner; we crossed the hill to Cumae (_vide_ Goethe's 'Wanderer')
+and descended on Baiae, where we ate and rested. We then looked at
+more ruined temples, ancient baths, and other things of the kind,
+and thus evening had arrived before we crossed the bay.
+
+At half-past nine we arrived at the little town of Ischia, where we
+found every corner of the only inn fully occupied, so we resolved
+to go on to Don Tommaso's; a journey of two hours nominally, but
+which we performed in an hour and a quarter. The evening was
+deliciously cool, and innumerable glow-worms, who allowed us to
+catch them, were scattered on the vine-branches, and fig-trees, and
+shrubs. When we at last arrived, somewhat fatigued, at Don
+Tommaso's house, about eleven o'clock, we found all the people
+still up, clean rooms, fresh fruits, and a friendly deacon to wait
+on us, so we remained comfortably seated opposite a heap of
+cherries till midnight. The next morning the weather was bad, and
+the rain incessant, so we could not ascend the Epomeo, and as we
+seemed little disposed to converse (we did not get on in this
+respect, Heaven knows why!) the affair would have become rather a
+bore, if Don Tommaso had not possessed the prettiest poultry-yard
+and farm in Europe. Right in front of the door stands a large leafy
+orange-tree covered with ripe fruit, and from under its branches a
+stair leads to the dwelling. Each of the white stone steps is
+decorated with a large vase of flowers, these steps leading to a
+spacious open hall, whence through an archway you look down on the
+whole farm-yard, with its orange-trees, stairs, thatched roofs,
+wine casks and pitchers, donkeys and peacocks. That a foreground
+may not be wanting, an Indian fig-tree stands under the walled
+arch, so luxuriant that it is fastened to the wall with ropes. The
+background is formed by vineyards with summer-houses, and the
+adjacent heights of the Monte Epomeo. Being protected from the rain
+by the archway, the party seated themselves there under shelter,
+and sketched the various objects in the farm the best way they
+could, the whole livelong day. I was on no ceremony, and sketched
+along with them, and I think I in some degree profited by so doing.
+At night we had a terrific storm, and as I was lying in bed, I
+remarked that the thunder growled tremendously on Monte Epomeo, and
+the echoes continued to vibrate like those on the Lake of Lucerne,
+but even for a greater length of time.
+
+Next morning, Sunday, the weather was again fine. We went to Foria,
+and saw the people going to the cathedral in their holiday
+costumes. The women wore their well-known head-dress of folds of
+white muslin placed flat on the head; the men were standing in the
+square before the church, in their bright red caps, gossiping about
+politics, and we gradually wound our way through these festal
+villages up the hill. It is a huge rugged volcano, full of
+fissures, ravines, cavities, and steep precipices. The cavities
+being used for wine cellars, they are filled with large casks.
+Every declivity is clothed with vines and fig-trees, or
+mulberry-trees. Corn grows on the sides of the steep rocks, and
+yields more than one crop every year. The ravines are covered with
+ivy, and innumerable bright-coloured flowers and herbs, and
+wherever there is a vacant space, young chestnut-trees shoot up,
+furnishing the most delightful shade. The last village, Fontana,
+lies in the midst of verdure and vegetation. As we climbed higher,
+the sky became overcast and gloomy, and by the time we reached the
+most elevated peaks of the rocks, a thick fog had come on. The
+vapours flitted about, and although the rugged outlines of the
+rocks, and the telegraph, and the cross, stood forth strangely in
+the clouds, still we could not see even the smallest portion of the
+view. Soon afterwards rain commenced, and as it was impossible to
+remain, and wait as you do on the Righi, we were obliged to take
+leave of Epomeo without having made his acquaintance. We ran down
+in the rain, one rushing after the other, and I do believe that we
+were scarcely an hour in returning.
+
+Next day we went to Capri. This place has something Eastern in its
+aspect, with the glowing heat reflected from its rocky white walls,
+its palm-trees, and the rounded domes of the churches that look
+like mosques. The sirocco was burning, and rendered me quite unfit
+to enjoy anything; for really climbing up five hundred and
+thirty-seven steps to Anacapri in this frightful heat, and then
+coming down again, is toil only fit for a horse. True, the sea is
+wondrously lovely, looking down on it from the summit of the bleak
+rock, and through the singular fissures of the jagged peaks, so
+strangely formed.
+
+But above all, I must tell you of the blue grotto, for it is not
+known to every one, as you can only enter it either in very calm
+weather, or by swimming. The rocks there project precipitously into
+the sea, and are probably as steep under the water as above it. A
+huge cavity has been hollowed out by nature, but in such a manner,
+that round the whole circumference of the grotto, the rocks rest
+on the sea in all their breadth, or rather are sunk precipitously
+into it, and ascend thence to the vault of the cavern. The sea
+fills the whole space of the grotto, the entrance to which lies
+under the water, only a very small portion of the opening
+projecting above the water, and through this narrow space you can
+only pass in a small boat, in which you must lie flat. When you are
+once in, the whole extent of the huge cave and its vault is
+revealed, and you can row about in it with perfect ease, as if
+under a dome. The light of the sun also pierces through the opening
+into the grotto underneath the sea, but broken and dimmed by the
+green sea water, and thence it is that such magical visions arise.
+The whole of the rocks are sky-blue and green in the twilight,
+resembling the hue of moonshine, yet every nook, and every depth,
+is distinctly visible. The water is thoroughly lighted up and
+brilliantly illuminated by the light of the sun, so that the dark
+skiff glides over a bright shining surface. The colour is the most
+dazzling blue I ever saw, without shadow or cloud, like a pane of
+opal glass; and as the sun shines down, you can plainly discern all
+that is going on under the water, while the whole depths of the sea
+with its living creatures are disclosed. You can see the coral
+insects and polypuses clinging to the rocks, and far below, fishes
+of different species meeting and swimming past each other. The
+rocks become deeper in colour as they go lower into the water, and
+are quite black at the end of the grotto, where they are closely
+crowded together, and still further under them, you can see crabs,
+fishes, and reptiles in the clear waters. Every stroke too of the
+oars echoes strangely under the vault, and as you row round the
+wall, new objects come to light. I do wish you could see it, for
+the effect is singularly magical. On turning towards the opening by
+which you entered, the daylight seen through it seems bright
+orange, and by moving even a few paces you are entirely isolated
+under the rock in the sea, with its own peculiar sunlight: it is as
+if you were actually living under the water for a time.
+
+We then proceeded to Procida, where the women adopt the Greek
+dress, but do not look at all prettier from doing so. Curious faces
+were peeping from every window. A couple of Jesuits, in black gowns
+and with gloomy countenances, were seated in a gay arbour of vines,
+evidently enjoying themselves, and made a good picture. Then we
+crossed the sea to Pozzuoli, and through the grotto of Posilippo
+again home.
+
+I cannot write to Paul about his change of residence, and his
+entrance into the great, wide world of London, because he mentions
+casually, that he will probably leave for London in the course of
+three weeks, so my letter could not possibly reach him in Berlin; a
+week hence I shall take my chance, and address to my brother in
+London. That smoky place is fated to be now and ever my favourite
+residence; my heart glows when I even think of it, and I paint to
+myself my return there, passing through Paris, and finding Paul
+independent, alone, and another man, in the dear old haunts; when
+he will present me to his new friends, and I will present him to my
+old ones, and we shall live and dwell together: so even at this
+moment I am all impatience soon to go there. I see by some
+newspapers my friends have sent me, that my name is not forgotten,
+and so I hope when I return to London, to be able to work steadily,
+which I was previously unable to do, being forced to go to Italy.
+If they make any difficulty in Munich about my opera, or if I
+cannot get a _libretto_ that I like, I intend in that case to
+compose an opera for London. I know that I could receive a
+commission to do so, as soon as I chose. I am also bringing some
+new pieces with me for the Philharmonic, and so I shall have made
+good use of my time.
+
+As my evenings here are at my own disposal, I read a little French
+and English. The "Barricades" and "Les Etats de Blois" particularly
+interest me, as while I read them I realize with horror a period
+which we have often heard extolled as a vigorous epoch, too soon
+passed away. Though these books seem to me to have many faults, yet
+the delineation of the two opposite leaders is but too correct;
+both were weak, irresolute, miserable hypocrites, and I thank God
+that the so highly-prized middle ages are gone never to return. Say
+nothing of this to any disciple of Hegel's, but it is so
+nevertheless; and the more I read and think on the subject, the
+more I feel this to be true. Sterne has become a great favourite
+of mine. I remembered that Goethe once spoke to me of the
+'Sentimental Journey,' and said that it was impossible for any one
+better to paint what a froward and perverse thing is the human
+heart. I chanced to meet with the book, and thought I should like
+to read it. It pleases me very much. I think it very subtle, and
+beautifully conceived and expressed.
+
+There are very few German books to be had here. I am therefore
+restricted to Goethe's Poems, and assuredly these are suggestive
+enough, and always new. I feel especial interest in those poems
+which he evidently composed in or near Naples, such as Alexis and
+Dora; for I daily see from my window how this wonderful work was
+created. Indeed, which is often the case with master-pieces, I
+often suddenly and involuntarily think, that the very same ideas
+might have occurred to myself on a similar occasion, and as if
+Goethe had only by some chance been the first to express them.
+
+With regard to the poem, "Gott segne dich, junge Frau," I maintain
+that I have discovered its locality and dined with the woman
+herself; but of course she is now grown old, and the boy she was
+then nursing is become a stalwart vine-dresser. Her house lies
+between Pozzuoli and Baiae, "eines Tempels Truemmern," and is fully
+three miles from Cumae. You may imagine therefore with what new
+light and truth these poems dawn on me, and the different feeling
+with which I now regard and study them. I say nothing of Mignon's
+song at present, but it is singular that Goethe and Thorwaldsen
+are still living, that Beethoven only died a few years ago, and yet
+H---- declares that German art is as dead as a rat. _Quod non._ So
+much the worse for him if he really feels thus; but when I reflect
+for a time on his conclusions, they appear to me very shallow.
+_Apropos_, Schadow, who returns to Duesseldorf in the course of a
+few days, has promised to extract, if possible, some new songs for
+me from Immermann, which rejoices me much. That man is a true poet,
+which is proved by his letters, and everything that he has written.
+Count Platen is a little, shrivelled, wheezing old man, with gold
+spectacles, yet not more than five-and-thirty! He quite startled
+me. The Greeks look very different! He abuses the Germans terribly,
+forgetting however that he does so in German. But farewell for
+to-day.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, June 6th, 1831.
+
+     My dear Parents,
+
+It is indeed high time that I should write to you a rational,
+methodical letter, for I fear that none of those from Naples were
+worth much. It really seemed as if the atmosphere there deterred
+every one from serious reflection, at least I very seldom succeeded
+in collecting my thoughts or ideas; and now I have been scarcely
+more than a few hours here, when I once more resume that Roman
+tranquillity, and grave serenity, which I alluded to in my former
+letters from this place. I cannot express how infinitely better I
+love Rome than Naples. People allege that Rome is monotonous, of
+one uniform hue, melancholy, and solitary. It is certainly true
+that Naples is more like a great European city, more lively and
+varied, and more cosmopolitan; but I may say to you confidentially,
+that I begin gradually to feel the most decided hatred of all that
+is cosmopolitan;--I dislike it, just as I dislike _many-sidedness_,
+which, moreover, I rather think I do not much believe in. Anything
+that aspires to be distinguished, or beautiful, or really great,
+must be _one-sided_; but then this _one side_ must be brought to a
+state of the most consummate perfection, and no man can deny that
+such is the case at Rome.
+
+Naples seems to me too small to be called properly a great
+city; all the life and bustle are confined to two large
+thoroughfares--the Toledo, and the coast from the harbour to the
+Chiaja. Naples does not realize to my mind the idea of a centre for
+a great nation, which London offers in such perfection; chiefly
+indeed because it is deficient in a people: for the fishermen and
+lazzaroni I cannot designate as a people, they are more like
+savages, and their centre is not Naples, but the sea. The middle
+classes, by which I mean those who pursue various trades, and the
+working citizens who form the basis of other great towns, are quite
+subordinate; indeed, I may almost say that such a class is not to
+be found there. It was this that often made me feel out of humour
+during my stay in Naples, much as I loved and enjoyed the scenery;
+but as a dissatisfied feeling constantly recurred, I think I at
+last discovered the cause to lie within myself. I cannot say that I
+was precisely unwell during the incessant sirocco, but it was more
+disagreeable than an indisposition which passes away in a few days.
+I felt languid, disinclined for all that was serious,--in fact,
+lazy. I lounged about the streets all day with a morose face, and
+would have preferred lying on the ground, without the trouble of
+thinking, or wishing, or doing anything; then it suddenly occurred
+to me, that the principal classes in Naples live in reality
+precisely in the same manner; that consequently the source of my
+depression did not spring from myself, as I had feared, but from
+the whole combination of air, climate, etc. The atmosphere is
+suitable for grandees who rise late, never require to go out on
+foot, never think (for this is heating), sleep away a couple of
+hours on a sofa in the afternoon, then eat ice, and drive to the
+theatre at night, where again they do not find anything to think
+about, but simply make and receive visits. On the other hand, the
+climate is equally suitable for a fellow in a shirt, with naked
+legs and arms, who also has no occasion to move about--begging for
+a few _grani_ when he has literally nothing left to live on--taking
+his afternoon's siesta stretched on the ground, or on the quay, or
+on the stone pavement (the pedestrians step over him, or shove him
+aside if he lies right in the middle). He fetches his _frutti di
+mare_ himself out of the sea, sleeps wherever he may chance to
+find himself at night; in short, he employs every moment in doing
+exactly what he likes best, just as an animal does.
+
+These are the two principal classes of Naples. By far the largest
+portion of the population of the Toledo there, consists of gaily
+dressed ladies and gentlemen, or husbands and wives driving
+together in handsome equipages, or of those olive _sans-culottes_
+who sometimes carry about fish for sale, brawling in the most
+stentorian way, or bearing burdens when they have no longer any
+money left. I believe there are few indeed who have any settled
+occupation, or follow up any pursuit with zeal and perseverance, or
+who like work for the sake of working. Goethe says that the
+misfortune of the North is, that people there always wish to be
+doing something, and striving after some end; and he goes on to
+say, that an Italian was right, who advised him not to think so
+much, for it would only give him a headache. I suspect however that
+he was merely jesting; at all events, he did not act in this manner
+himself, but, on the contrary, like a genuine Northman. If however
+he means that the difference of character is produced by nature,
+and subservient to her influence, then there is no doubt that he is
+quite in the right. I can perfectly conceive that it must be so,
+and why wolves howl; still it is not necessary to howl along with
+them. The proverb should be exactly reversed. Those who, owing to
+their position, are obliged to work, and must consequently both
+think and bestir themselves, treat the matter as a necessary evil,
+which brings them in money, and when they actually have it, they
+too live like the great, or the naked, gentlemen. Thus there is no
+shop where you are not cheated. Natives of Naples, who have been
+customers for many years, are obliged to bargain, and to be as much
+on their guard as foreigners; and one of my acquaintances, who had
+dealt at the same shop for fifteen years, told me that during the
+whole of that period there had been invariably the same battle
+about a few scudi, and that nothing could prevent it.
+
+Thence it is that there is so little industry or competition, and
+that Donizetti finishes an opera in ten days; to be sure, it is
+sometimes hissed, but that does not matter, for it is paid for all
+the same, and he can then go about amusing himself. If at last
+however his reputation becomes endangered, he will in that case be
+forced really to work, which he would find by no means agreeable.
+This is why he sometimes writes an opera in three weeks, bestowing
+considerable pains on a couple of airs in it, so that they may
+please the public, and then he can afford once more to divert
+himself, and once more to write trash. Their painters, in the same
+way, paint the most incredibly bad pictures, far inferior even to
+their music. Their architects also erect buildings in the worst
+taste; among others, an imitation, on a small scale, of St.
+Peter's, in the Chinese style. But what does it matter? the
+pictures are bright in colour, the music makes plenty of noise, the
+buildings give plenty of shade, and the Neapolitan grandees ask no
+more.
+
+My physical mood was similar to theirs, everything inspiring me
+with a wish to be idle, and to lounge about, and sleep; yet I was
+constantly saying to myself that this was wrong; and striving to
+occupy myself, and to work, which I could not accomplish. Hence
+arose the querulous tone of some of the letters I wrote to you, and
+I could only escape from such a mood by rambling over the hills,
+where nature is so divine, making every man feel grateful and
+cheerful. I did not neglect the musicians, and we had a great deal
+of music, but I cared little in reality for their flattering
+encomiums. Fodor is hitherto the only genuine artist, male or
+female, that I have seen in Italy; elsewhere I should probably have
+found a great many faults with her singing, but I overlooked them
+all, because when she sings it is real music, and after such a long
+privation, that was most acceptable.
+
+Now however I am once more in old Rome, where life is very
+different. There are processions daily, for last week was the
+Corpus Domini; and just as I left the city during the celebration
+of the week following the Holy Week, I now return after the Corpus
+Christi to find them engaged in the same way. It made a singular
+impression on me to see that the streets had in the interim assumed
+such an aspect of summer: on all sides booths with lemons and iced
+water, the people in light dresses, the windows open, and the
+_jalousies_ closed. You sit at the doors of coffee-houses, and eat
+_gelato_ in quantities; the Corso swarms with equipages, for people
+no longer walk much, and though in reality I miss no dear friends
+or relatives, yet I felt quite moved when I once more saw the
+Piazza di Spagna, and the familiar names written up on the corners
+of the streets. I shall stay here for about a week, and then
+proceed northwards.
+
+The Infiorata is on Thursday, but it is not yet quite certain that
+it will take place, because they have some apprehensions of a
+revolution; but I hope I shall witness this ceremony. I mean to
+take advantage of this opportunity to see the hills once more, and
+then to set off for the north. Wish me a good journey, for I am on
+the eve of departure. It is a year this very day since I arrived in
+Munich, heard 'Fidelio,' and wrote to you. We have not met since
+then; but, please God, we shall see each other again before another
+year.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Rome, June 16, 1831.
+
+     Dear Professor,
+
+It was my intention some time ago to have written you a description
+of the music during the Holy Week, but my journey to Naples
+intervened, and during my stay there, I was so constantly occupied
+in wandering among the mountains, and in gazing at the sea, that I
+had not a moment's leisure to write; hence arose the delay for
+which I now beg to apologize. Since then I have not heard a single
+note worth remembering; in Naples the music is most inferior.
+During the last two months, therefore, I have no musical
+reminiscences to send you, save those of the Holy Week, which
+however made so indelible an impression on my mind, that they will
+be always fresh in my memory. I already described to my parents the
+effect of the whole ceremonies, and they probably sent you the
+letter.
+
+It was fortunate that I resolved to listen to the various Offices
+with earnest and close attention, and still more so, that from the
+very first moment I felt sensations of reverence and piety. I
+consider such a mood indispensable for the reception of new ideas,
+and no portion of the general effect escaped me, although I took
+care to watch each separate detail.
+
+The ceremonies commenced on Wednesday, at half past four o'clock,
+with the antiphon "Zelus domus tuae." A little book containing the
+Offices for the Holy Week explains the sense of the various
+solemnities. "Each Nocturn contains three Psalms, signifying that
+Christ died for all, and also symbolical of the three laws, the
+natural, the written, and the evangelical. The 'Domine labia mea'
+and the 'Deus in adjutorium' were not sung on this occasion, when
+the death of our Saviour and Master is deplored, as slain by the
+hands of wicked godless men. The fifteen lights represent the
+twelve apostles and the three Marys." (In this manner the book
+contains much curious information on this subject, so I mean to
+bring it with me for you.) The Psalms are chanted _fortissimo_ by
+all the male voices of two choirs. Each verse is divided into two
+parts, like a question and answer, or rather, classified into A and
+B; the first chorus sings A, and the second replies with B. All the
+words, with the exception of the last, are sung with extreme
+rapidity on one note, but on the last they make a short "melisma,"
+which is different in the first and second verse. The whole Psalm,
+with all its verses, is sung on this melody, or _tono_ as they call
+it, and I wrote down seven of these _toni_, which were employed
+during the three days. You cannot conceive how tiresome and
+monotonous the effect is, and how harshly and mechanically they
+chant through the Psalms. The first _tonus_ which they sang was--
+
+  [Music: In-fi-xus sum in li-mo pro-fun-di,
+  et non est sub-stan-tia]
+
+Thus the whole forty-two verses of the Psalm are sung in precisely
+the same manner; one half of the verse ending in G, A, G, the other
+in G, E, G. They sing with the accent of a number of men
+quarrelling violently, and it sounds as if they were shouting out
+furiously one against another. The closing words of each Psalm are
+chanted more slowly and impressively, a long "triad" being
+substituted for the "melisma," sung _piano_. For instance, this is
+the first:--
+
+  [Music: Qui di-li-gunt no-men e-jus
+  ha-bi-ta-bunt in e-a.]
+
+An antiphon, and sometimes more than one, serves as an introduction
+to each Psalm. These are generally sung by two counter-tenor
+voices, in _canto fermo_, in harsh, hard tones; the first half of
+each verse in the same style, and the second responded to by the
+chorus of male voices that I already described. I have kept the
+several antiphons that I wrote down, that you may compare them with
+the book. On the afternoon of Wednesday, the 68th, 69th, and 70th
+Psalms were sung. (By the bye, this division of the verses of the
+Psalms sung in turns by each chorus, is one of the innovations that
+Bunsen has introduced into the Evangelical Church here; he also
+ushers in each choral by an antiphon, composed by Georg, a musician
+who resides here, in the style of _canti fermi_, first sung by a
+few voices, succeeded by a choral, such as "Ein' feste Burg ist
+unser Gott.") After the 70th Psalm comes a paternoster _sub
+silentio_--that is, all present stand up, and a short silent
+inward prayer ensues, and a pause.
+
+Then commences the first Lamentation of Jeremiah, sung in a low
+subdued tone, in the key of G major, a solemn and fine composition
+of Palestrina's. The solos are chanted entirely by high tenor
+voices, swelling and subsiding alternately, in the most delicate
+gradations, sometimes floating almost inaudibly, and gently
+blending the various harmonies; being sung without any bass voices,
+and immediately succeeding the previous harsh intonation of the
+Psalms, the effect is truly heavenly. It is rather unfortunate
+however that those very parts which ought to be sung with the
+deepest emotion and reverence, being evidently those composed with
+peculiar fervour, should chance to be merely the titles of the
+chapter or verse, _aleph_, _beth_, _gimel_, etc., and that the
+beautiful commencement, which sounds as if it came direct from
+Heaven, should be precisely on these words, "Incipit Lamentatio
+Jeremiae Prophetae Lectio I." This must be not a little repulsive to
+every Protestant heart, and if there be any design to introduce a
+similar mode of chanting into our churches, it appears to me that
+this will always be a stumbling-block; for any one who sings
+"chapter first" cannot possibly feel any pious emotions, however
+beautiful the music may be, let him strive as he will.
+
+My little book indeed says, "Vedendo profetizzato il
+crocifiggimento con gran pieta, si cantano eziandio molto
+lamentevolmente _aleph_, e le altre simili parole, che sono le
+lettere dell' alfabeto Ebreo, perche erano in costume di porsi in
+ogni canzone in luogo di lamento, come e questa. Ciascuna lettera
+ha in se, tutto it sentimento di quel versetto che la segue, ed e
+come un argomento di esso;" but this explanation is not worth much.
+After this the 71st, 72nd, and 73rd Psalms are sung in the same
+manner, with their antiphons. These are apportioned to the various
+voices. The soprano begins, "In monte Oliveti," on which the bass
+voices chime in _forte_, "Oravit ad Patrem: Pater," etc. Then
+follow the lessons, from the treatise of Saint Augustine on the
+Psalms. The strange mode in which these are chanted appeared to me
+very extraordinary when I heard them for the first time on Palm
+Sunday, without knowing what it meant. A solitary voice is heard
+reciting on one note, not as in the Psalms, but very slowly and
+impressively, making the tone ring out clearly.
+
+There are different cadences employed for the different punctuation
+of the words, to represent a comma, interrogation, and full stop.
+Perhaps you are already acquainted with these: to me they were a
+novelty, and appeared very singular. The first, for example, was
+chanted by a powerful bass voice in G. If a comma occurs, he sings
+so, on the last word:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+an interrogation thus:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+a full stop:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+For example:--
+
+  [Music: con-jun-ga-mus o-ra-ti-o-nem.]
+
+I cannot describe to you how strange the falling cadence from A to
+C sounds; especially when the bass is followed by a soprano, who
+begins on D, and makes the same falling cadence from E to G; then
+an alto does the same in his key; for they sang three different
+lessons alternately with the _canto fermo_. I send you a specimen
+of the mode in which they render the _canto fermo_, regardless both
+of the words and the sense. The phrase "better he had never been
+born" was thus sung:--
+
+  [Music: Me-li-us il-li e-rat si
+  na-tus non fu-is-set]
+
+quite _fortissimo_ and monotonously. Then came the Psalms 74, 75,
+and 76, followed by three lessons, succeeded by the Miserere, sung
+in the same style as the preceding Psalms, in the following
+_tonus_:--
+
+  [Music: Et se-cun-dum mul-ti-tu-di-nem
+  mi-se-ra-tio-rum tua--rum
+  de-le i-ni-qui-ta-tem me-am.]
+
+It will be long before you can improve on this. Then followed
+Psalms 8, 62, and 66; "Canticum Moysi" in its own tone. Psalms 148,
+149, and 150 came next, and then antiphons. During this time the
+lights on the altar are all extinguished, save one which is placed
+behind the altar. Six wax candles still continue to burn high above
+the entrance, the rest of the space is already dim, and now the
+whole chorus _unisono_ intone with the full strength of their
+voices the "Canticum Zachariae," during which the last remaining
+lights are extinguished. The mighty swelling chorus in the gloom,
+and the solemn vibration of so many voices, have a wonderfully fine
+effect.
+
+The melody (in D minor) is also very beautiful. At the close all is
+profound darkness. An antiphon begins on the sentence, "Now he that
+betrayed him gave them a sign," and continues to the words "that
+same is he, hold him fast." Then all present fall on their knees,
+and one solitary voice softly sings, "Christus factus est pro nobis
+obediens usque ad mortem;" on the second day is added, "mortem
+autem crucis;" and on Good Friday, "propter quod et Deus exaltavit
+illum, et dedit illi Nomen, quod est super omne nomen." A pause
+ensues, during which each person repeats the Paternoster to
+himself. During this silent prayer, a death-like silence prevails
+in the whole church; presently the Miserere commences, with a chord
+softly breathed by the voices, and gradually branching off into two
+choirs. This beginning, and its first harmonious vibration,
+certainly made the deepest impression on me. For an hour and a half
+previously, one voice alone had been heard chanting almost without
+any variety; after the pause came an admirably constructed chord,
+which has the finest possible effect, causing every one to feel in
+their hearts the power of music; it is this indeed that is so
+striking. The best voices are reserved for the Miserere, which is
+sung with the greatest variety of effect, the voices swelling and
+dying away, from the softest _piano_ to the full strength of the
+choir. No wonder that it should excite deep emotion in every heart.
+Moreover they do not neglect the power of contrast; verse after
+verse being chanted by all the male voices in unison, _forte_, and
+harshly. At the beginning of the subsequent verses, the lovely,
+rich, soft sounds of voices steal on the ear, lasting only for a
+short space, and succeeded by a chorus of male voices. During the
+verses sung in monotone, every one knows how beautifully the softer
+choir are about to uplift their voices; soon they are again heard,
+again to die away too quickly, and before the thoughts can be
+collected, the service is over.
+
+On the first day, when the Miserere of Baini was given in the key
+of B minor, they sang thus:--"Miserere mei Deus" to "misericordiam
+tuam" from the music, with solo voices, two choirs using the whole
+strength of voices at their command; then all the bass singers
+commenced _tutti forte_ by F sharp, chanting on that note "et
+secundum multitudinem" to "iniquitatem meam," which is immediately
+succeeded by a soft chord in B minor, and so on, to the last verse
+of all, which they sing with their entire strength; a second short
+silent prayer ensues, when all the Cardinals scrape their feet
+noisily on the pavement, which betokens the close of the ceremony.
+My little book says, "This noise is symbolical of the tumult made
+by the Hebrews in seizing Christ." It may be so, but it sounded
+exactly like the commotion in the pit of a theatre, when the
+beginning of a play is delayed, or when it is finally condemned.
+The single taper still burning, is then brought from behind the
+altar, and all silently disperse by its solitary light.
+
+On leaving the chapel, I must not omit to mention the striking
+effect of the blazing chandelier lighting up the great vestibule,
+when the Cardinals and their attendant priests traverse the
+illuminated Quirinal through ranks of Swiss Guards. The Miserere
+sung on the first day was Baini's, a composition entirely devoid of
+life or power, like all his works; still it had chords and music,
+and so it made a certain impression.
+
+On the second day they gave some pieces by Allegri and Bai. On Good
+Friday all the music was Bai's. As Allegri composed only one verse,
+on which the rest are chanted, I heard the three compositions which
+they gave on that day. It is however quite immaterial which they
+sing, for the _embellimenti_ are pretty much the same in all three.
+Each chord has its _embellimento_, thus very little of the original
+composition is to be discovered. How these _embellimenti_ have
+crept in they will not say. It is maintained that they are
+traditional; but this I entirely disbelieve. In the first place no
+musical tradition is to be relied on; besides, how is it possible
+to carry down a five-part movement to the present time, from mere
+hearsay? It does not sound like it. It is evident that they have
+been more recently added; and it appears to me that the director,
+having had good high voices at his command, and wishing to employ
+them during the Holy Week, wrote down for their use ornamental
+phrases, founded on the simple unadorned chords, to enable them to
+give full scope and effect to their voices. They certainly are not
+of ancient date, but are composed with infinite talent and taste,
+and their effect is admirable; one in particular is often
+repeated, and makes so deep an impression, that when it begins, an
+evident excitement pervades all present; indeed, in any discussion
+as to the mode of executing this music, and when people say that
+the voices do not seem like the voices of men, but those of angels
+from on high, and that these sounds can never he heard elsewhere,
+it is this particular _embellimento_ to which they invariably
+allude. For example, in the Miserere, whether that of Bai or
+Allegri (for they have recourse to the same _embellimenti_ in both)
+these are the consecutive chords:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+Instead of this, they sing it so:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+  [Music]
+
+The soprano intones the high C in a pure soft voice, allowing it to
+vibrate for a time, and slowly gliding down, while the alto holds
+the C steadily, so that at first I was under the delusion that the
+high C was still held by the soprano; the skill, too, with which
+the harmony is gradually developed is truly admirable. The other
+_embellimenti_ are adapted in the same way to the consecutive
+chords: but the first one is by far the most beautiful. I can give
+no opinion as to the particular mode of executing the music; but
+what I once read, that some particular acoustic contrivance caused
+the continued vibration of the sounds, is an entire fable, quite as
+much so as the assertion that they sing from tradition, and without
+any fixed time, one voice simply following the other; for I saw
+plainly enough the shadow of Baini's long arm moving up and down;
+indeed, he sometimes struck his music-desk quite audibly. There is
+no lack of mystery too, on the part of the singers and others: for
+example, they never say beforehand what particular Miserere they
+intend to sing, but that it will be decided at the moment, etc.,
+etc. The key in which they sing, depends on the purity of the
+voices. The first day it was in B minor, the second and third in E
+minor, but each time they finished almost in B flat minor.
+
+The chief soprano, Mariano, came from the mountains to Rome
+expressly to sing on this occasion, and it is to him I owe hearing
+the _embellimenti_ with their highest notes. However careful and
+attentive the singers may be, still the negligence and bad habits
+of the whole previous year have their revenge, consequently the
+most fearful dissonance sometimes occurs.
+
+I must not forget to tell you that on the Thursday, when the
+Miserere was about to begin, I clambered up a ladder leaning
+against the wall, and was thus placed close to the roof of the
+chapel, so that I had the music, the priests, and the people far
+beneath me in gloom and shadow. Seated thus alone without the
+vicinity of any obtrusive stranger, the impression made on me was
+very profound. But to proceed: you must have had more than enough
+of Misereres in these pages, and I intend to bring you more
+particular details, both verbal and written.
+
+On Thursday, at half-past ten o'clock, high Mass was celebrated.
+They sang an eight-part composition of Fazzini's, in no way
+remarkable. I reserve for you some _canti fermi_ and antiphons,
+which I wrote down at the time, and my little book describes the
+order of the various services and the meaning of the different
+ceremonies. At the "Gloria in Excelsis" all the bells in Rome peal
+forth, and are not rung again till after Good Friday. The hours are
+marked in the churches by wooden clappers. The words of the
+"Gloria," the signal for all the strange tumult of bells, were
+chanted from the altar by old Cardinal Pacca, in a feeble trembling
+voice; this being succeeded by the choirs and all the bells, had a
+striking effect. After the "Credo" they sang the "Fratres ego enim"
+of Palestrina, but in the most unfinished and careless manner. The
+washing of the pilgrims' feet followed, and a procession in which
+all the singers join; Baini beating time from a large book carried
+before him, making signs first to one, and then to another, while
+the singers pressed forward to look at the music, counting the time
+as they walked, and then chiming in,--the Pope being borne aloft in
+his state chair. All this I have already described to my parents.
+
+In the evening there were Psalms, Lamentations, Lessons, and the
+Miserere again, scarcely differing from those of the previous day.
+One lesson was chanted by a soprano solo on a peculiar melody, that
+I mean to bring home with me. It is an adagio, in long-drawn notes,
+and lasts a quarter of an hour at least. There is no pause in the
+music, and the melody lies very high, and yet it was executed with
+the most pure, clear, and even intonation. The singer did not drop
+his tone so much as a single comma, the very last notes swelling
+and dying away as even and full as at the beginning; it was,
+indeed, a masterly performance. I was struck with the meaning they
+attach to the word _appoggiatura_. If the melody goes from C to D,
+or from C to E, they sing thus:--
+
+  [Music] or [Music] or [Music]
+
+and this they call an _appoggiatura_. Whatever they may choose to
+designate it, the effect is most disagreeable, and it must require
+long habit not to be discomposed by this strange practice, which
+reminds me very much of our old women at home in church; moreover
+the effect is the same. I saw in my book that the "Tenebrae" was to
+be sung, and thinking that it would interest you to know how it is
+given in the Papal chapel, I was on the watch with a sharp-pointed
+pencil when it commenced, and send you herewith the principal
+parts. It was sung very quick, and _forte_ throughout, without
+exception. The beginning was:--
+
+  [Music: Te-ne-brae fac----tae sunt
+  dum cru-ci-fi-xis--sent
+  Je--sum Ju-dae-i.
+  etc.]
+
+Then
+
+  [Music: De-us me--us, ut quid me
+  de-re-li--qui-sti?
+  ex-cla--mans Je-sus vo--ce
+  mag-na a-it: Pa-ter, in ma-
+  nus tu-as com-men-do spi-ri-tum
+  me----um.
+  etc.]
+
+I cannot help it, but I own it does irritate me to hear such holy
+and touching words sung to such dull, drawling music. They say it
+is _canto fermo_, Gregorian, etc.; no matter. If at that period
+there was neither the feeling nor the capability to write in a
+different style, at all events we have now the power to do so, and
+certainly this mechanical monotony is not to be found in the
+scriptural words; they are all truth and freshness, and moreover
+expressed in the most simple and natural manner. Why then make them
+sound like a mere formula? and, in truth, such singing as this is
+nothing more! The word "Pater" with a little flourish, the "meum"
+with a little shake, the "ut quid me"--can this be called sacred
+music? There is certainly no false expression in it, because there
+is _none_ of any kind; but does not this very fact prove the
+desecration of the words? A hundred times during the ceremony I was
+driven wild by such things as these; and then came people in a
+state of ecstasy, saying how splendid it had all been. This sounded
+to me like a bad joke, and yet they were quite in earnest!
+
+At Mass early on Friday morning, the chapel is stripped of all its
+decorations, the altar uncovered, and the Pope and Cardinals in
+mourning. The "Passion," from St. John, was sung, composed by
+Vittoria, but the words of the people in the chorus alone are his,
+the rest are chanted according to an established formula: but more
+of this hereafter. The whole appeared to me too trivial and
+monotonous, I was quite out of humour, and, in fact, dissatisfied
+with the affair altogether. One of the two following modes ought to
+be adopted. The "Passion" ought either to be recited quietly by the
+priest, as St. John relates it, in which case there is no occasion
+for the chorus to sing "Crucifige eum," nor for the alto to
+represent Pilate--or else the scene should be so thoroughly
+realized, that it ought to make me feel as if I were actually
+present, and saw it all myself. In that event, Pilate ought to sing
+just as he would have spoken, the chorus shout out "Crucifige" in a
+tone anything but sacred; and then, through the impress of entire
+truth, and the dignity of the object represented, the singing would
+become sacred church music.
+
+I require no under-current of thought when I hear music, which is
+not to me "a mere medium to elevate the mind to piety," as they say
+here, but a distinct language speaking plainly to me; for though
+the sense is _expressed_ by the words, it is equally contained in
+the music. This is the case with the "Passion" of Sebastian Bach;
+but as they sing it here, it is very imperfect, being neither a
+simple narrative, nor yet a grand solemn dramatic truth. The chorus
+sings "Barabbam" to the same sacred chords as "et in terra pax."
+Pilate speaks exactly in the same manner as the Evangelist. The
+voice that represents our blessed Saviour commences always _piano_,
+in order to have one definite distinction, but when the chorus
+breaks loose, shouting out their sacred chords, it seems entirely
+devoid of meaning. Pray forgive these strictures. I now proceed to
+simple narration again. The Evangelist is a tenor, and the mode of
+chanting, the same as that of the Lessons, with a peculiar falling
+cadence at the comma, interrogation, and full stop. The Evangelist
+intones on D, and sings thus at a full stop:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+at a comma:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+and at the conclusion, when another personage enters, so:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+Christ is represented by a bass, and commences always thus:--
+
+  [Music: E----go]
+
+I could not catch the formula, though I noted down several parts,
+which I can show you when I return: among others, the words spoken
+on the Cross. All the other personages,--Pilate, Peter, the Maid,
+and the High Priest,--are altos, and sing this melody only:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+The chorus sings the words of the people from their places above,
+while everything else is sung from the altar. I must really mark
+down here as a curiosity the "Crucifige," just as I noted it at the
+time:--
+
+  [Music: Tol-le! Tol-le! Cru-ci-fi-
+  ge e-um.]
+
+The "Barabbam" too is most singular;--very tame Jews indeed! But my
+letter is already too long, so I shall discuss the subject no
+further. Prayers are then offered up for all nations and
+institutions, each separately designated. When the prayer for the
+Jews is uttered, no one kneels, as they do at all the others, nor
+is Amen said. They pray _pro perfidis Judaeis_, and the author of my
+book discovers an explanation of this also. Then follows the
+Adoration of the Cross; a small crucifix is placed in the centre
+of the chapel, and all approach barefooted (without shoes), fall
+down before it and kiss it; during this time the "Improperia" are
+sung. I have only once heard this composition, but it seems to me
+to be one of Palestrina's finest works, and they sing it with
+remarkable enthusiasm. There is surprising delicacy and harmony in
+its execution by the choir; they are careful to place every passage
+in its proper light, and to render it sufficiently prominent
+without making it too conspicuous--one chord blending softly with
+the other. Moreover, the ceremony is very solemn and dignified, and
+the most profound silence reigns in the chapel.
+
+They sing the oft-recurring Greek "Holy" in the most admirable
+manner, each time with the sane smoothness and expression. You will
+be not a little surprised, however, when you see it written down,
+for they sing as follows:--
+
+  [Music: A-gi-os O The---os]
+
+  [Music: Sanc-tus De-us.]
+
+Such passages as that at the commencement, where all the voices
+sing the very same embellishment, repeatedly occur, and the ear
+becomes accustomed to them. The effect of the whole is undoubtedly
+superb. I only wish you could hear the tenors in the first chorus,
+and the mode in which they take the high A on the word "Theos;" the
+note is so long-drawn and ringing, though softly breathed, that it
+sounds most touching. This is repeated again and again till all in
+the chapel have performed the Adoration of the Cross; but as on
+this occasion the crowd was not very great, I unluckily had not the
+opportunity of hearing it as often as I could have wished.
+
+I quite understand why the "Improperias" produced the strongest
+effect on Goethe, for they are nearly the most faultless of all, as
+both music and ceremonies, and everything connected with them, are
+in the most entire harmony. A procession follows to fetch the Host,
+which had been exposed and adored on the previous evening in
+another chapel of the Quirinal, lighted up by many hundred
+wax-lights. The morning service closed at half-past one with a hymn
+in _canto fermo_. At half-past three in the afternoon the first
+nocturn began, with the Psalms, Lessons, etc. I corrected what I
+had written down, heard the Miserere of Baini, and about seven
+o'clock followed the Cardinals home through the illuminated
+vestibule--so all was now seen, and all was now over.
+
+I was anxious, dear Professor, to describe the Holy Week to you
+minutely, as they were memorable days to me, every hour bringing
+with it something interesting and long anticipated. I also
+particularly rejoiced in feeling that, in spite of the excitement
+and the numerous discussions in praise or blame, the solemnities
+made as vivid an impression on me, as if I had been quite free from
+all previous prejudice or prepossession. I thus saw the truth
+confirmed, that perfection, even in a sphere the most foreign to
+us, leaves its own stamp on the mind. May you read this long letter
+with even half the pleasure I feel in recalling the period of the
+Holy Week at Rome.
+
+     Yours faithfully,
+        FELIX MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY.
+
+
+     Florence, June 25th, 1831.
+
+     Dear Sisters,
+
+On such a day as this my paternal home and those I love are much in
+my thoughts; my feelings on this point are rather singular. If I
+feel at any time unwell, or fatigued, or out of humour, I have no
+particular longing for my own home or for my family; but when
+brighter days ensue, when every hour makes an indelible impression,
+and every moment brings with it glad and pleasant sensations then I
+ardently wish that I were with you, or you with me; and no minute
+passes without my thinking of one or other of you, to whom I have
+something particular to say.
+
+I have to-day passed the whole forenoon, from ten till three, in
+the gallery; it was glorious! Besides all the beautiful work I saw,
+from which so much fresh benefit is always to be derived, I
+wandered about among the pictures, feeling so much sympathy, and
+such kindly emotions in gazing at them. I now first thoroughly
+realized the great charm of a large collection of the highest works
+of art. You pass from one to the other, sitting and dreaming for an
+hour before some picture, and then on to the next.
+
+Yesterday was a holiday here, so to-day the Palazzo degli Uffizi
+was crowded with people who had come into the city to see the
+races, and to visit the far-famed gallery; chiefly peasants, male
+and female, in their country costumes. All the apartments were
+thrown open, and as I was about to contemplate them for the last
+time. I contrived to slip quietly through the crowd, and to remain
+quite solitary, for I knew that I had not one acquaintance among
+them.
+
+The busts of the various princes who founded and enriched this
+collection, are placed near the entrance, at the top of the
+staircase. I suppose I must have been peculiarly susceptible
+to-day, for the faces of the Medici interested me exceedingly; they
+looked so noble and refined, so proud and so dignified. I stood
+looking at them for a long time, and imprinted on my memory those
+countenances of world-wide renown.
+
+I then went to the Tribune. This room is so delightfully small you
+can traverse it in fifteen paces, and yet it contains a world of
+art. I again sought out my favourite armchair, which stands under
+the statue of the "Slave Whetting his Knife" (_L'Arrotino_), and
+taking possession of it, I enjoyed myself for a couple of hours;
+for here, at one glance, I had the "Madonna del Cardellino," "Pope
+Julius II.," a female portrait by Raphael, and above it a lovely
+Holy Family, by Perugino; and so close to me that I could have
+touched the statue with my hand, the Venus de' Medici; beyond, that
+of Titian; on the other side, the "Apollino" and the "Wrestlers"
+(_Lottatori_); in front of the Raphael, the merry Greek Dancing
+Faun, who seems to feel an uncouth delight in discordant music, for
+the fellow has just struck two cymbals together, and is listening
+to the sound, while treading with his foot on a kind of Pan's
+pipes, as an accompaniment: what a clown he is! The space between
+is occupied by other pictures of Raphael's, a portrait by Titian, a
+Domenichino, etc., and all these within the circumference of a
+small semicircle, no larger than one of your own rooms. This is a
+spot where a man feels his own insignificance, and may well learn
+to be humble.
+
+I occasionally walked through the other rooms, where a large
+picture by Leonardo da Vinci, only commenced and sketched in, with
+all its wild dashes and strokes, is very suggestive. I was
+especially struck with the genius of the monk Fra Bartolommeo, who
+must have been a man of the most devout, tender, and earnest
+spirit. There is a small picture of his here, which I discovered
+for myself. It is about the size of this sheet of paper, in two
+divisions, and represents the "Adoration" and the "Presentation in
+the Temple." The figures are about two-thirds of a finger-length in
+size, but finished in the most exquisite and consummate manner,
+with the most brilliant colouring, the brightest decorations, and
+in the most genial sunshine. You can see in the picture itself,
+that the pious _maestro_ has taken delight in painting it, and in
+finishing the most minute details; probably with the view of giving
+it away, to gratify some friend. We feel as if the painter belonged
+to it, and still ought to be sitting before his work, or had only
+this moment left it. I felt the same with regard to many pictures
+to-day, especially that of the "Madonna del Cardellino," which
+Raphael painted as a wedding-gift, and a surprise for his friend.
+I could not help meditating on all these great men, so long passed
+away from earth, though their whole inner soul is still displayed
+in such lustre to us, and to all the world.
+
+While reflecting on these things, I came by chance into the room
+containing the portraits of great painters. I formerly merely
+regarded them in the light of valuable curiosities, for there are
+more than three hundred portraits, chiefly painted by the masters
+themselves, so that you see at the same moment the man and his
+work; but to-day a fresh idea dawned on me with regard to
+them,--that each painter resembles his own productions, and that
+each while painting his own likeness, has been careful to represent
+himself just as he really was. In this way you become personally
+acquainted with all these great men, and thus a new light is shed
+on many things. I will discuss this point more minutely with you
+when we meet; but I must not omit to say, that the portrait of
+Raphael is almost the most touching likeness I have yet seen of
+him. In the centre of a large rich screen, entirely covered with
+portraits, hangs a small solitary picture, without any particular
+designation, but the eye is instantly arrested by it; this is
+Raphael--youthful, very pale and delicate, and with such onward
+aspirations, such longing and wistfulness in the mouth and eyes,
+that it is as if you could see into his very soul. That he
+cannot succeed in expressing all that he sees and feels, and
+is thus impelled to go forward, and that he must die an early
+death,--all this is written on his mournful, suffering, yet fervid
+countenance, and when looking at his dark eyes, which glance at you
+out of the very depths of his soul, and at the pained and
+contracted mouth, you cannot resist a feeling of awe.
+
+How I wish you could see the portrait that hangs above it; that of
+Michael Angelo, an ugly, muscular, savage, rugged fellow, in all
+the vigour of life, looking gruff and morose; and on the other side
+a wise, grave man, with the aspect of a lion, Leonardo da Vinci;
+but you cannot see this portrait, and I will not describe it in
+writing, but tell you of it when we meet. Believe me, however, it
+is truly glorious. Then I passed on to the Niobe, which of all
+statues makes the greatest impression on me; and back again to my
+painters, and to the Tribune, and through the Corridors, where the
+Roman Emperors, with their dignified yet knavish physiognomies,
+stare you in the face; and last of all I took a final leave of the
+Medici family.
+
+It was indeed a morning never to be forgotten.
+
+
+     June 26th.
+
+Do not suppose however that I mean to assert that all days are
+spent thus. You must battle your way through the present living
+mob, before you can arrive at the nobility, long since dead, and
+those who have not a strong arm are sure to come badly off in the
+conflict. Such a journey as mine from Rome to Perugia, and on here,
+is no joke. Jean Paul says that the presence of a person who openly
+hates you is most painful and oppressive. Such a being is the
+Roman _vetturino_: he grants you no sleep; exposes you to hunger
+and thirst; at night, when he is bound to provide you with your
+_pranzo_, he contrives that you shall not arrive till midnight,
+when every one is of course asleep, and you are only too thankful
+to get a bed. In the morning he sets off before four o'clock, and
+rests his horses at noon for five hours, but invariably in some
+solitary little wayside inn, where nothing is to be had. Each day
+he makes out about six German miles, and drives _piano_, while the
+sun burns _fortissimo_.
+
+I was very badly off owing to all this, for my fellow-travellers
+were far from being congenial; three Jesuits inside, and in the
+cabriolet, where I particularly desired to sit, a most disagreeable
+Venetian lady. If I wished to escape from her, I was obliged to go
+inside, and listen to the praises of Charles X., and to hear that
+Ariosto ought to have been burnt as a corrupt writer, subversive of
+all morality. It was still worse outside, and we never seemed to
+get on. The first day, after a journey of four hours, the axletree
+broke, and we were obliged to remain for nine hours in the same
+house in the Campagna where we chanced to be, and at last to stay
+all night. If there was a church on the road that we had an
+opportunity of visiting, the most beautiful and devotional
+creations of Perugino, or Giotto, or Cimabue, enchanted our eyes;
+and so we passed from irritation to delight, and then to irritation
+again. This was a wretched state to be in. I was not in the least
+amused by it all; and if Nature had not bestowed on us bright
+moonshine at the Lake of Thrasymene, and if the scenery had not
+been so wonderfully fine, and if in every town we had not seen a
+superb church, and if we had not passed through a large city each
+day as we journeyed on, and if--but you see I am not easily
+satisfied.
+
+The route however was beautiful, and I must now describe my arrival
+in Florence, which also includes my whole Italian life of the
+previous days. At Incisa, half a day's journey from Florence, my
+_vetturino_ became so intolerable from his insolence and abuse,
+that I found it necessary to take out my luggage, and to tell him
+to drive to the devil,--which he accordingly did, rather against
+his will.
+
+It was Midsummer's day, and a celebrated fete was to take place in
+Florence the same evening, which I would on no account whatever
+have missed. This is just the kind of thing that the Italians take
+advantage of, so the landlady at Incisa offered me a carriage at
+four times the proper fare. When I refused to take it, she said I
+might try to procure another; and so I accordingly did, but found
+that no carriages for hire were to be had, only post-horses. I went
+to the Post, and was there told, to my disgust, that they were at
+my landlady's, and that she had wished to make me pay an exorbitant
+price for them. I went back and demanded horses. She said, if I did
+not choose to pay what she asked, I should have none. I desired to
+see the regulations, which they are all obliged to have. She said
+there was no occasion to show them, and turned her back on me. The
+use of physical strength, which plays a great part here, was
+resorted to by me on this occasion, for I seized her and pushed her
+back into a room (for we were standing in the passage) and then
+hurried down the street to the Podesta. It turned out however that
+there was no such person in the town, but that he lived four miles
+off. The affair became every instant more disagreeable, the crowd
+of boys at my heels increasing at every step. Fortunately a
+decent-looking man came up, to whom the mob seemed to show some
+respect; so I accosted him, and explained all that had occurred. He
+sympathized with me, and took me to a vine-dresser's who had a
+little carriage for hire.
+
+The whole crowd now congregated before his door, many pressing
+forward into the house after me, and shouting that I was mad; but
+the carriage drove up, and I threw a few scudi to an old beggar, on
+which they all called out that I was a _bravo Signore_, and wished
+me _buon viaggio_. The moderate price the man demanded more fully
+showed me the abominable overcharge of the landlady. The carriage
+was easy, and the horses went on at a good pace, and so we
+travelled across the hills to Florence. In the course of half an
+hour we overtook my lazy vetturino. I put up my umbrella to defend
+me from the sun, and I scarcely ever travelled so pleasantly and so
+comfortably as during those few hours, having left all annoyances
+behind me, and before me the prospect of the beautiful fete.
+
+Very soon the Duomo, and the hundreds of villas scattered through
+the valleys, were visible. Once more we passed by decorated
+terraces, and the tops of trees seen over them; the Arno valley
+looking lovelier than ever. And so I arrived here in good spirits
+and dined; and even while doing so I heard a tumult, and looking
+out of the window I saw crowds, both young and old, all hurrying in
+their holiday costumes across the bridges.
+
+I followed them to the Corso, and then to the races; afterwards to
+the illuminated Pergola, and last of all to a masked ball in the
+Goldoni Theatre. At one o'clock in the morning I went towards home,
+thinking that the whole affair was over; but the Arno was still
+covered with gondolas, illuminated by coloured lamps, and crossing
+each other in every direction. Under the bridge a large ship was
+passing, hung with green lanterns; the water shone brightly as it
+rippled along, while a still brighter moon looked down on the whole
+scene. I recalled to myself the various occurrences of the day, and
+the thoughts that had chased each other through my mind, and
+resolved to write them all to you. It is in fact a reminiscence for
+myself, for it may not be so suggestive to you, but it will one day
+be of service to me, enabling me to recall various scenes connected
+with fair Italy.
+
+
+EXTRACT FROM A LETTER TO FRAU VON PEREIRA, IN VIENNA.
+
+     Genoa, July, 1831.
+
+At first I resolved not to answer your letter until I had fulfilled
+your injunctions, and composed "Napoleon's Midnight Review;" and
+now I have to ask your forgiveness for not having done so, but
+there is a peculiarity in this matter. I take music in a very
+serious light, and I consider it quite inadmissible to compose
+anything that I do not thoroughly feel. It is just as if I were to
+utter a falsehood; for notes have as distinct a meaning as words,
+perhaps even a more definite sense. Now it appears to me almost
+impossible to compose for a descriptive poem. The mass of
+compositions of this nature do not militate against this opinion,
+but rather prove its truth; for I am not acquainted with one single
+work of the kind that has been successful. You are placed between a
+dramatic conception or a mere narrative; the one, in the "Erl
+Koenig," causes the willows to rustle, the child to shriek, and the
+horse to gallop. The other imagines a ballad singer, calmly
+narrating the horrible tale, as you would a ghost story, and this
+is the most accurate view of the two; Reichardt almost invariably
+adopted this reading, but it does not suit me; the music stands in
+my way. I feel in a far more spectral spirit when I read such a
+poem quietly to myself, and imagine the rest, than when it is
+depicted, or related to me.
+
+It does not answer to look on "Napoleon's Midnight Review" as a
+narrative, inasmuch as no particular person speaks, and the poem is
+not written in the style of a ballad. It seems to me more like a
+clever conception than a poem; it strikes me that the poet himself
+placed no great faith in his misty forms.
+
+I could indeed have composed music for it in the same descriptive
+style, as Neukomm and Fischhof, in Vienna. I might have introduced
+a very novel rolling of drums in the bass, and blasts of trumpets
+in the treble, and have brought in all sorts of hobgoblins. But I
+love my serious elements of sound too well to do anything of the
+sort; for this kind of thing always appears to me a joke; somewhat
+like the painting's in juvenile spelling-books, where the roofs are
+coloured bright red, to make the children aware they are intended
+for roofs; and I should have been most reluctant to write out and
+send you anything incomplete, or that did not entirely please
+myself, because I always wish you to have the best I can
+accomplish.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Milan, July 14th, 1831.
+
+This letter will probably be the last (D.V.) that I shall write to
+you from an Italian city; I may possibly send you another from the
+Borromean Islands, which I intend to visit in a few days, but do
+not rely on this.
+
+My week here has been one of the most agreeable and amusing that I
+have passed in Italy; and how this could be the case in Milan,
+hitherto utterly unknown to me, I shall now proceed to relate. In
+the first place, I immediately secured a small piano, and attacked
+with _rabbia_ that endless "Walpurgis Night," to finish the thing
+at last; and to-morrow morning it will be completed, except the
+overture; for as yet I have not quite made up my mind whether it
+shall be a grand symphony, or a short introduction breathing of
+spring. I should like to take the opinion of some adept on this
+point. I must say the conclusion has turned out better than I
+myself expected. The hobgoblins and the bearded Druid, with the
+trombones sounding behind him, diverted me immensely, and so I
+passed two forenoons very happily.
+
+'Tasso' also contributed to my pleasure, which I have now for the
+first time been able to read with facility; it is a splendid poem.
+I was glad to be already well acquainted with Goethe's 'Tasso;'
+being constantly reminded of it by the principal passages of the
+Italian poet, whose verse, like that of Goethe, is so dreamy,
+harmonious, and tender, its sweet melody delighting the ear. Your
+favourite passage, dear father, "Era la notte allor," struck me as
+very beautiful, but the stanzas that I admire most, are those
+descriptive of Clorinda's death; they are so wonderfully
+imaginative, and fine. The close however does not quite please me.
+Tancred's 'Lamentations' are, I think, more charmingly composed
+than true to nature; they contain too many clever ideas and
+antitheses; and even the words of the hermit, which soothe him,
+sound more like a censure on the hermit himself. I should
+infallibly have killed him on the spot, if he had talked to me in
+such a strain.
+
+Recently I was reading the episode of 'Armida' in a carriage,
+surrounded by a company of Italian actors, who were incessantly
+singing Rossini's "Ma trema, trema," when suddenly there recurred
+to my thoughts Gluck's "Vous m'allez quitter," and Rinaldo's
+falling asleep, and the voyage in the air--and I felt in a most
+melting mood. This is genuine music; thus have men felt, and thus
+have men spoken, and such strains can never die. I do cordially
+hate the present licentious style. Do not take it amiss; your motto
+is, Without hatred, no love,--and I did feel so moved when I
+thought of Gluck, and his grand embodiments.
+
+Every evening I was in society, owing to a mad prank, which however
+proved very successful. I think I have invented this kind of
+eccentric proceeding, and may take out a patent for it, as I have
+already made my most agreeable acquaintances _ex abrupto_, without
+letters or introductions of any kind.
+
+I asked by chance on my arrival at Milan the name of the
+Commandant, and the _laquais de place_ named General Ertmann. I
+instantly thought of Beethoven's Sonata in A major, and its
+dedication; and as I had heard all that was good of Madame
+Ertmann, from those who knew her; that she was so kind, and had
+bestowed such loving care on Beethoven, and played herself so
+beautifully, I, next morning, at a suitable hour for a visit, put
+on a black coat, desired that the Government-house should be
+pointed out to me, and occupied myself on the way thither by
+composing some pretty speeches for the General's lady, and went on
+boldly.
+
+I cannot however deny that I felt rather dismayed when I was told
+that the General lived in the first story, facing the street; and
+when I was fairly in the splendid vaulted hall, I was seized with a
+sudden panic, and would fain have turned back: but I could not help
+thinking that it was vastly provincial on my part to take fright at
+a vaulted hall, so I went straight up to a group of soldiers
+standing near, and asked an old man in a short nankeen jacket, if
+General Ertmann lived there, intending then to send in my name to
+the lady. Unluckily the man replied, "I am General Ertmann: what is
+your pleasure?" This was unpleasant, as I was forced to have
+recourse to the speech I had prepared. The General, however, did
+not seem particularly edified by my statement, and wished to know
+whom he had the honour of addressing. This also was far from
+agreeable, but fortunately he was acquainted with my name, and
+became very polite: his wife, he said was not at home, but I should
+find her at two o'clock, or any hour after that which might suit
+me.
+
+I was glad that all had gone off so well, and in the meantime went
+to the Brera, where I passed the time in studying the 'Sposalizio'
+of Raphael, and at two o'clock I presented myself to Freifrau
+Dorothea von Ertmann. She received me with much courtesy, and was
+most obliging, playing me Beethoven's Sonata in C sharp minor, and
+the one in D minor. The old General, who now appeared in his
+handsome grey uniform, covered with orders, was quite enchanted,
+and had tears of delight in his eyes, because it was so long since
+he had heard his wife play; he said there was not a person in Milan
+who cared to hear what I had heard. She mentioned the trio in B
+major, but said she could not remember it. I played it, and sang
+the other parts: this enchanted the old couple, and so their
+acquaintance was soon made.
+
+Since then their kindness to me is so great that it quite
+overwhelms me. The old General shows me all the remarkable objects
+in Milan; in the afternoon his lady takes me in her carriage to
+drive on the Corso, and at night we have music till one o'clock in
+the morning. Yesterday at an early hour they drove with me in the
+environs; at noon I dined with them, and in the evening there was a
+party. They are the most agreeable and cultivated couple you can
+imagine, and both as much in love with each other as if they
+were a newly wedded pair,--and yet they have been married for
+four-and-thirty years. Yesterday he spoke of his profession, of
+military life, of personal courage, and similar subjects, with a
+degree of lucidity, and liberality of feeling, that I scarcely
+ever met with, except in my father. The General has been now an
+officer for six-and-forty years, and you should really see him
+galloping beside his wife's carriage in the park,--the old
+gentleman looking so dignified and animated!
+
+She plays Beethoven's works admirably, though it is so long since
+she studied them; she sometimes rather exaggerates the expression,
+dwelling too long on one passage, and then hurrying the next; but
+there are many parts that she plays splendidly, and I think I have
+learned something from her. When sometimes she can bring no more
+tone out of the instrument, and begins to sing in a voice that
+emanates from the very depths of her soul, she reminds me of you,
+dear Fanny, though you are infinitely her superior. When I was
+approaching the end of the adagio in the B major trio, she
+exclaimed, "The amount of expression here is beyond any one's
+playing;" and it is quite true of this passage.
+
+The following day, when I went there again to play her the symphony
+in C minor, she insisted on my taking off my coat, as the day was
+so hot. In the intervals of our music she related the most
+interesting anecdotes of Beethoven, and that when she was playing
+to him in the evening he not unfrequently used the snuffers as a
+tooth-pick! She told me that when she lost her last child,
+Beethoven at first shrank from coming to her house; but at length
+he invited her to visit him, and when she arrived, she found him
+seated at the piano, and simply saying, "Let us speak to each
+other by music," he played on for more than an hour, and, as
+she expressed it, "he said much to me, and at last gave me
+consolation." In short I am now in the most genial mood, and quite
+at my ease, having no occasion to resort to any disguise, or to be
+silent, for we understand each other admirably on all points. She
+played the Kreutzer Sonata yesterday with violin accompaniment, and
+when the violin-player (an Austrian cavalry officer) made a long
+flourish, _a la_ Paganini, at the beginning of the adagio, the old
+General made such a desperate grimace, that I nearly fell off my
+chair from laughing.
+
+I called on Teschner, as you, dear mother, desired me to do so;
+such a musician however is as depressing as a thick fog. Madame
+Ertmann has more soul in her little finger than that fellow has in
+his whole body, with his formidable moustaches, behind which he
+seems to lie in ambush. There is no public music in Milan; they
+still speak with enthusiasm of last winter, when Pasta and Rubini
+sang here, but say that they were miserably supported, and the
+orchestra and choruses bad. I however heard Pasta six years ago in
+Paris, and I can do the same every year, with the addition of a
+good orchestra and a good chorus, and many other advantages; so it
+is evident that if I wish to hear Italian music, I must go to Paris
+or to England. The Germans however take it amiss when you say this,
+and persist _par force_ in singing, playing, and acquiring new
+ideas here, declaring this is the land of inspiration; while I
+maintain that inspiration is peculiar to no country, but floats
+about in the air.
+
+Two days ago I was in the morning theatre here, and was amused.
+There you can see more of the life of the people than in any other
+part of Italy. It is a large theatre with boxes, the pit filled
+with wooden benches, on which you can find places if you come
+early; the stage is like every other stage, but there is no roof
+either over the pit or boxes, so that the bright sun shines into
+the theatre and into the eyes of the actors. Moreover, the piece
+they gave was in the Milanese dialect. You feel as if you were
+secretly watching all these complicated and diverting situations,
+and might take part in them if necessary, and thus the most
+familiar comic dilemmas become novel and interesting; and the
+public seem to feel the most lively interest in them. And now, good
+night. I wished to talk to you a little before going to bed, and so
+it has become a letter.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+EXTRACTS FROM TWO LETTERS TO EDWARD DEVRIENT.
+
+     Milan, July 15th, 1831.
+
+You reproach me with being two-and-twenty without having yet
+acquired fame. To this I can only reply, had it been the will of
+Providence that I should be renowned at the age of two-and-twenty,
+I no doubt should have been so. I cannot help it, for I no more
+write to gain a name, than to obtain a Kapellmeister's place. It
+would be a good thing if I could secure both. But so long as I do
+not actually starve, so long is it my duty to write only as I feel,
+and according to what is in my heart, and to leave the results to
+_Him_ who disposes of other and greater matters. Every day,
+however, I am more sincerely anxious to write exactly as I feel,
+and to have even less regard than ever to external views; and when
+I have composed a piece just as it sprang from my heart, then I
+have done my duty towards it; and whether it brings hereafter fame,
+honour, decorations, or snuff-boxes, etc., is a matter of
+indifference to me. If you mean, however, that I have neglected, or
+delayed perfecting myself, or my compositions, then I beg you will
+distinctly and clearly say in what respect and wherein I have done
+so. This would be indeed a serious reproach.
+
+You wish me to write operas, and think I am unwise not to have done
+so long ago. I answer, place a right libretto in my hand, and in
+two months the work shall be completed, for every day I feel more
+eager to write an opera. I think that it may become something fresh
+and spirited, if I begin it now; but I have got no words yet, and I
+assuredly never will write music for any poetry that does not
+inspire me with enthusiasm. If you know a man capable of writing
+the libretto of an opera, for Heaven's sake tell me his name, that
+is all I want. But till I have the words, you would not wish me to
+be idle--even if it were possible for me to be so?
+
+I have recently written a good deal of sacred music; that is quite
+as much a necessity to me, as the impulse that often induces people
+to study some particular book, the Bible, or others, as the only
+reading they care for at the time. If it bears any resemblance to
+Sebastian Bach, it is again no fault of mine, for I wrote it just
+according to the mood I was in; and if the words inspired me with a
+mood akin to that of old Bach, I shall value it all the more, for I
+am sure you do not think that I would merely copy his form, without
+the substance; if it were so, I should feel such disgust and such a
+void, that I could never again finish a composition. Since then I
+have written a grand piece of music which will probably impress the
+public at large--the first "Walpurgis Night" of Goethe. I began it
+simply because it pleased me, and inspired me with fervour, and
+never thought that it was to be performed; but now that it lies
+finished before me, I see that it is quite suitable for a great
+_Concertstueck_, and you must sing the Bearded Pagan Priest at my
+first subscription concert in Berlin. I wrote it expressly to suit
+your voice; and as I have hitherto found that the pieces I have
+composed with least reference to the public are precisely those
+which gave them the greatest satisfaction, so no doubt it will be
+on this occasion also. I only mention this to prove to you that I
+do not neglect _the practical_. To be sure this is invariably an
+after-thought, for who the deuce could write music, the most
+unpractical thing in the world--the very reason why I love it so
+dearly--and yet think all the time of the practical! It is just as
+if a lover were to bring a declaration of love to his mistress in
+rhyme and verse, and recite it to her.
+
+I am now going to Munich, where they have offered me an opera, to
+see if I can find a man there who is a poet, for I will only have a
+man who has a certain portion of fire and genius. I do not expect a
+giant, and if I fail in meeting with a poet there, I shall probably
+make Immermann's acquaintance for this express purpose, and if he
+is not the man either, I shall try for him in London. I always
+fancy that the right man has not yet appeared; but what can I do to
+find him out? He certainly does not live in the Reichmann Hotel,
+nor next door; so where does he live? Pray write to me on this
+subject; although I firmly believe that a kind Providence, who
+sends us all things in due time when we stand in need of them, will
+supply this also if necessary; still we must do our duty, and look
+round us--and I do wish the libretto were found.
+
+In the meantime I write as good music as I can, and hope to make
+progress, and we already agreed, when discussing this affair in my
+room, that, as I said before, I am not responsible for the rest.
+But enough now of this dry tone. I really have become once more
+almost morose and impatient, and yet I had so firmly resolved never
+again to be so!
+
+
+     Lucerne, August 27th, 1831.
+
+I quite feel that any opera I were to write now, would not be
+nearly so good as any second one I might compose afterwards; and
+that I must first enter on the new path I propose to myself, and
+pursue it for some little time, in order to discover whither it
+will lead, and how far it will go, whereas in instrumental music I
+already begin to know exactly what I really intend. Having worked
+so much in this sphere, I feel much more clear and tranquil with
+regard to it--in short, it urges me onwards. Besides, I have been
+made very humble lately, by a chance occurrence that still dwells
+on my mind.
+
+In the valley of Engelberg I found Schiller's "Wilhelm Tell," and
+on reading it over again, I was anew enchanted and fascinated by
+such a glorious work of art, and by all the passion, fire, and
+fervour it displays. An expression of Goethe's suddenly recurred to
+my mind. In the course of a long conversation about Schiller, he
+said that Schiller had been able to _supply_ two great tragedies
+every year, besides other poems. This business-like term _supply_,
+struck me as the more remarkable on reading this fresh, vigorous
+work; and such energy seemed to me so wonderfully grand, that I
+felt as if in the course of my life I had never yet produced
+anything of importance; all my works seem so isolated. I feel as if
+I too must one day _supply_ something. Pray do not think this
+presumptuous; but rather believe that I only say so because I know
+what _ought_ to be, and what _is not_. Where I am to find the
+opportunity, or even a glimpse of one, is hitherto to me quite a
+mystery. If however it be my mission, I firmly believe that the
+opportunity will be granted, and if I do not profit by it another
+will; but in that case I cannot divine why I feel such an impulse
+to press onwards. If you could succeed in not thinking about
+singers, decorations, and situations, but feel solely absorbed in
+representing men, nature, and life, I am convinced that you would
+yourself write the best libretto of any one living; for a person
+who is so familiar with the stage as you are, could not possibly
+write anything undramatic, and I really do not know what you could
+wish to change in your poetry. If there be an innate feeling for
+nature and melody, the verses cannot fail to be musical, even
+though they sound rather lame in the libretto; but so far as I am
+concerned, you may write prose if you like, I will compose music
+for it. But when one form is to be moulded into another, when the
+verses are to be made musically, but not _felt_ musically, when
+fine words are to replace outwardly what is utterly deficient in
+fine feeling inwardly--there you are right--this is a dilemma from
+which no man can extricate himself; for as surely as pure metre,
+happy thoughts, and classical language do not suffice to make a
+good poem, unless a certain flash of poetical inspiration pervades
+the whole, so an opera can only become thoroughly musical, and
+accordingly thoroughly dramatic, by a vivid feeling of life in all
+the characters.
+
+There is a passage on this subject in Beaumarchais, who is censured
+because he makes his personages utter too few fine thoughts, and
+has put too few poetical phrases into their mouths. He answers,
+that this is not his fault. He must confess that during the whole
+time he was writing the piece, he was engaged in the most lively
+conversation with his _dramatis personae_: that while seated at his
+writing table he was exclaming: "Figaro, prends garde, le Comte
+sait tout!--Ah! Comtesse, quelle imprudence!--vite, sauve-toi,
+petit page;" and then he wrote down their answers, whatever they
+chanced to be,--nothing more. This strikes me as being both true
+and charming.
+
+The sketch of the opera introducing an Italian Carnival, and the
+close in Switzerland, I already knew, but was not aware that it was
+yours. Be so good however as to describe Switzerland with great
+vigour, and immense spirit. If you are to depict an effeminate
+Switzerland, with _jodeln_ and languishing, such as I saw here in
+the theatre last night in the 'Swiss Family,' when the very
+mountains and Alpine horns became sentimental, I shall lose all
+patience, and criticize you severely in Spener's paper. I beg you
+will make it full of animation, and write to me again on the
+subject.
+
+
+     Isola Bella, July 24th, 1831.
+
+You no doubt imagine that you inhale the fragrance of
+orange-flowers, see blue sky, and a bright sun, and a clear lake,
+when you merely read the date of this letter. Not at all! The
+weather is atrocious, rain pouring down, and claps of thunder heard
+at intervals;--the hills look frightfully bleak, as if the world
+were enshrouded in clouds; the lake is grey, and the sky sombre. I
+can smell no orange-flowers, and this island might quite as
+appropriately be called "Isola Brutta!" and this has gone on for
+three days! My unfortunate cloak! I am confessedly the "spirit of
+negation" (I refer to my mother), and as it is at present the
+fashion with every one not to consider the Borromean Islands "by
+any means so beautiful," and somewhat formal; and as the weather
+seems resolved to disgust me with this spot,--from a spirit of
+opposition I maintain that it is perfectly lovely. The approach to
+these islands, where you see crowded together green terraces with
+quaint statues, and many old-fashioned decorations, along with
+verdant foliage, and every species of southern vegetation, has a
+peculiar charm for me, and yet something affecting and solemn too.
+For what I last year saw in all the luxuriance and exuberance of
+wild nature, and to which my eye had become so accustomed, I find
+now cultivated by art, and about to pass away from me for ever.
+There are citron-hedges and orange-bushes; and sharp-pointed aloes
+shoot up from the walls--it is just as if, at the end of a piece,
+the beginning were to be repeated; and this, as you know, I
+particularly like.
+
+In the steamboat was the first peasant girl I have seen here in
+Swiss costume; the people speak a bad half-French Italian. This is
+my last letter from Italy, but believe me the Italian lakes are not
+the least interesting objects in this country; _anzi_,--I never saw
+any more beautiful. People tried to persuade me that the gigantic
+forms of the Swiss Alps that have haunted me from my childhood[17]
+had been exaggerated by my imagination, and that after all a snowy
+mountain was not in reality so grand as I thought. I almost dreaded
+being undeceived, but at first sight of the foreground of the Alps
+from the Lake of Como, veiled in clouds, with here and there a
+surface of bright snow, sharp black points rearing their heads, and
+sinking precipitously into the lake, the hills first scattered over
+with trees and villages, and covered with moss, and then bleak and
+desolate, and on every side deep ravines filled with snow,--I felt
+just as I formerly did, and saw that I had exaggerated nothing.
+
+  [17] The whole family had been in Switzerland in the year 1821.
+
+In the Alps all is more free, more sharply defined; more
+uncivilized, if you will: yet I always feel there both healthier
+and happier. I have just returned from the gardens of the Palace,
+which I visited in the midst of the rain. I wished to imitate
+Albano,[18] and sent for a barber to open a vein: he however
+misunderstood my purpose, and shaved me instead,--a very pardonable
+mistake. Gondolas are landing on every part of the island, for
+to-day is the fete following the great festival of yesterday, in
+honour of which the P. P. Borromeo sent for singers and musicians
+from Milan, to sing and play to the islanders. The gardener asked
+me if I knew what a wind instrument was. I said with a clear
+conscience that I did; and he replied that I ought to try to
+imagine the effect of thirty such instruments, and violins and
+basses, all played at once; but indeed I could not possibly imagine
+it, for it must be heard to be believed. The sounds (continued he)
+seemed to come from Heaven, and all this was produced by
+_philharmony_. What he meant by this term I know not; but the music
+had evidently made more impression on him, than the best orchestra
+often does on musical connoisseurs. At this moment some one has
+just begun to play the organ in the church for Divine service, in
+the following strain:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+Full organ in the bass, Bourdon 16, and reed stops, have a very
+fine effect. The fellow has come all the way from Milan, too,
+expressly to make this disturbance in the church. I must go there
+for a little, so farewell for a few moments. I intend to remain
+here for the night, instead of crossing the lake again, for I am so
+much pleased with this little island. I certainly cannot say that I
+have slept soundly for the last two nights; one night owing to the
+innumerable claps of thunder, the next owing to the innumerable
+fleas; and, in all probability, I have to-night the prospect of
+both combined. But as the following morning I shall be speaking
+French, and have left Italy, and crossed the Simplon, I mean to
+ramble about all this day and to-morrow in true Italian fashion.
+
+  [18] In the 'Titan' of Jean Paul.
+
+I must now relate to you historically how I happened to come here.
+At the very last moment of my stay in Milan, the Ertmanns came to
+my room to bid me farewell, and we took leave of each other more
+cordially than I have done of any one for many a long day. I
+promised to send you many kind wishes from them, though they are
+unacquainted with you, and I also agreed to write to them
+occasionally. Another valued acquaintance I made there, is Herr
+Mozart, who holds an office in Milan; but he is a musician, heart
+and soul. He is said to bear the strongest resemblance to his
+father, especially in disposition; for the very same phrases that
+affect the feelings in his father's letters, from their candour and
+simplicity, constantly recur in the conversation of the son, whom
+no one can fail to love from the moment he is known. For instance,
+I consider it a very charming trait in him, that he is as jealous
+of the fame and name of his father, as if he were an incipient
+young musician; and one evening, at the Ertmanns', when a great
+many of Beethoven's works had been played, the Baroness asked me in
+a whisper to play something of Mozart's, otherwise his son would be
+quite mortified; so when I played the overture to "Don Juan," he
+began to thaw, and begged me to play also the overture to the
+"Flauto Magico" of his "_Vatter_," and seemed to feel truly filial
+delight in hearing it: it is impossible not to like him.
+
+He gave me letters to some friends near the Lake of Como, which
+procured me for once a glimpse of Italian provincial life, and I
+amused myself famously there for a few days with the Doctor, the
+Apothecary, the Judge, and other people of the locality. There were
+very lively discussions on the subject of Sand, and many expressed
+great admiration of him; this appeared strange to me, as the
+occurrence is of such distant date that no one any longer argues on
+the subject. They also spoke of Shakspeare's plays, which are now
+being translated into Italian. The Doctor said that the tragedies
+were good, but that there were some plays about witches that were
+too stupid and childish: one, in particular, "Il Sonno d' una Notte
+di Mezza State." In it the stale device occurred of a piece being
+rehearsed in the play, and it was full of anachronisms and childish
+ideas; on which they all chimed in that it was very silly and
+advised me not to read it.[19] I remained meekly silent, and
+attempted no defence! I bathed frequently in the Lake, and
+sketched, and yesterday rowed on the Lake of Lugano, which frowned
+sternly on us with its cascades and dark canopy of clouds; then
+across the hills to Luvino, and to-day I came here by steam.
+
+  [19] The overture to the "Midsummer Night's Dream" was composed
+  by Mendelssohn as early as the year 1826.
+
+_Evening._--I have this moment returned from the Isola Madre, and
+most splendid it is; spacious, and full of terraces, citron-hedges,
+and evergreen shrubs. The weather has at last become less
+inclement; thus the large white house on the island, with its ruins
+and terraces, looked very pretty. It is indeed a unique land, and I
+only wish I could bring with me to Berlin a portion of the same
+balmy air that I inhaled when in the boat to-day. You have nothing
+like it, and I would rather you enjoyed it, than all the people who
+imbibe it here. A fiercely moustachioed German was with me in the
+boat, who examined all the beautiful scenery as if he were about to
+purchase it and thought it too dear. Presently I heard a trait
+quite in the style of Jean Paul. When we were walking on the
+island, surrounded by verdure, an Italian, who was of the party,
+observed that this was a spot well adapted for lovers to ramble in,
+and to enjoy the charms of nature. "Ah! yes!" said I, in a
+languishing tone. "It was on this account," continued he, "that I
+separated from my wife ten years ago; I established her at Venice
+in a small tobacconist's shop, and now I live as I please. You must
+one day do the same."
+
+The old boatman told us that he had rowed General Bonaparte on this
+lake, and related various anecdotes of him and Murat. He said Murat
+was a most extraordinary man; all the time that he was rowing him
+on the lake, he never ceased singing to himself for a single
+moment, and once when setting off on a journey he gave him his
+spirit-flask, and said he would buy another for himself in Milan. I
+cannot tell why these little traits, especially the singing, seemed
+to realize the man in my mind more than many a book of history.
+
+The "Walpurgis Nacht" is finished and revised, and the overture
+will soon be equally far advanced. The only person who has heard it
+as yet, is Mozart, and he was so delighted with it that the
+well-known composition caused me fresh pleasure; he insisted on my
+publishing it immediately. Pray forgive this letter, written in
+true student phraseology. You no doubt perceive from its style that
+I have not worn a neckcloth for a week past; but I wished you to
+know how gay and happy I have been during the days spent among the
+mountains, and with what pleasure I look forward to those that yet
+await me.
+
+         Yours, FELIX.
+
+
+     A l'Union-prieure de Chamounix, end of July, 1831.
+
+     My dear Parents,
+
+I cannot refrain from writing to you from time to time, to thank
+you for my wondrously beautiful journey; and if I ever did so
+before, I must do so again now, for more delightful days than those
+on my journey hither, and during my stay here, I never experienced.
+Fortunately you already know this valley, so there is no occasion
+for me to describe it to you; indeed, how could I possibly have
+done so? But this I may say, that nowhere has nature in all her
+glory met my eyes in such brightness as here, both when I saw it
+with you for the first time and now; and as every one who sees it,
+ought to thank God for having given him faculties to comprehend,
+and to appreciate such grandeur, so I must also thank you for
+having supplied me with the means of enjoying such a pleasure.
+
+I had been told that I exaggerated the forms of the mountains in my
+imagination; but yesterday, at the hour of sunset, I was pacing up
+and down in front of the house, and each time that I turned my back
+on the mountains, I endeavoured vividly to represent to myself
+these gigantic masses, and each time when I again faced them, they
+far exceeded my previous conceptions. Like the morning that we
+drove away from this when the sun was rising[20] (no doubt you
+remember it) the hills have been clear and lovely ever since I
+arrived. The snow pure, and sharply defined, and apparently near in
+the dark blue atmosphere; the glaciers thundering unremittingly,
+as the ice is melting; when clouds gather, they lie lightly on the
+base of the mountains, the summits of which stand forth clear
+above. Would that we could see them together! I have passed this
+whole day here quietly, and entirely alone. I wished to sketch the
+outlines of the mountains, so I went out and found an admirable
+point of view, but when I opened my book, the paper seemed so very
+small that I hesitated about attempting it. I have indeed succeeded
+in giving the outlines what is called _correctly_,--but every
+stroke looks so formal, when compared with the grace and freedom
+which everywhere here pervade nature. And then the splendour of
+colour! In short, this is the most brilliant point of my travels;
+and the whole of my excursion on foot, so solitary, independent,
+and enjoyable, is something new to me, and a hitherto unknown
+pleasure.
+
+  [20] In the year 1821.
+
+I must however relate how I came here, otherwise my letter at last
+will contain nothing but exclamations. As I previously wrote to
+you, I had the most odious weather on the Lago Maggiore, and the
+Islands. It continued so incessantly stormy, cold, and wet, that
+the same evening I took my place in the diligence in rather a sulky
+humour, and we drove on towards the Simplon. Scarcely had we been
+journeying for half an hour, when the moon came out, the clouds
+dispersed, and next morning the weather was most bright and
+beautiful. I felt almost ashamed of this undeserved good fortune,
+and I could now thoroughly enjoy the glorious scenery; the road
+winding first through high green valleys, then through rocky
+ravines and meadows, and at last past glaciers and snowy mountains.
+I had with me a little French book on the subject of the Simplon
+road, which both pleased and affected me; for the subject was
+Napoleon's correspondence with the _Directoire_ about the projected
+work, and the first report of the General who crossed the mountain.
+With what spirit and vigour these letters are written! and yet a
+little swagger too, but with such a glow of enthusiasm that it
+quite touched me, as I was driven along this capital level road by
+an Austrian postilion. I compared the fire and poetry displayed in
+every description contained in these letters (I mean those of the
+subaltern General) with the eloquence of the present day, which
+leaves you so terribly cold and is so odiously prosaic in all its
+philanthropic views, and so lame--where there is plenty of
+_fanfaronnade_, but no genuine youth--and I could not but feel that
+a great epoch has passed away for ever. I was unable to divest
+myself of the idea that Napoleon never saw this work--one of
+his favourite conceptions--for he never crossed the Simplon
+when the road was finished, and was thus deprived of this great
+gratification. High up, in the Simplon village, all is bleak, and I
+actually shivered from cold for the first time during the last year
+and a half. A neat civil Frenchwoman keeps the inn on the summit,
+and it would not be easy to describe the sensation of satisfaction
+caused by its thrifty cleanliness, which is nowhere to be found in
+Italy.
+
+We then descended into the Valais, as far as Brieg, where I stayed
+all night, overjoyed to find myself once more among honest, natural
+people, who could speak German, and who plundered me into the
+bargain in the most infamous manner. The following day I drove
+through the Valais--an enchanting journey: the road all along, like
+those you have seen in Switzerland, ran between two lofty ranges of
+mountains, their snowy peaks starting up at intervals, and through
+avenues of green, leafy walnut-trees, standing in front of pretty
+brown houses,--below, the wild grey Rhone,--past Lenk, and every
+quarter of an hour a village with a little church. From Martigny I
+travelled for the first time in my life literally on foot, and as I
+found the guides too dear I went on quite alone, and started with
+my cloak and knapsack on my shoulders. About a couple of hours
+later I met a stout peasant lad, who became my guide, and also
+carried my knapsack; and so we went on past Forclas to Trient, a
+little dairy village, where I breakfasted on milk and honey, and
+thence to the Col de Balme.
+
+The whole valley of Chamouni, and Mont Blanc, with all its
+precipitous glaciers, lay before me bathed in sunshine. A party of
+gentlemen and ladies (one of the latter very pretty and young) came
+from the opposite side on mules, with a number of guides; scarcely
+had we all assembled under one roof, when subtle vapours began to
+rise, shrouding first the mountain and then the valley, and at
+last thickly covering every object, so that soon nothing was to be
+seen. The ladies were afraid of going out into the fog, just as if
+they were not already in the midst of it; at last they set off, and
+from the window I watched the singular spectacle of the caravan
+leaving the house, all laughing, and talking loudly in French and
+English and _patois_. The voices presently became indistinct; then
+the figures likewise; and last of all I saw the pretty girl in her
+wide Scotch cloak; then only glimpses of grey shadows at intervals,
+and they all disappeared. A few minutes later I ran down the
+opposite side of the mountain with my guide; we soon emerged once
+more into sunshine, and entered the green valley of Chamouni with
+its glaciers; and at length arrived here at the Union. I have just
+returned from a ramble to Montanvert, the Mer de Glace, and to the
+source of the Arveiron. You know this splendid scenery, and so you
+will forgive me, if, instead of going to Geneva to-morrow, I first
+make the tour of Mont Blanc, that I may become acquainted with this
+personage from the southern side also, which is I hear the most
+striking. Farewell, dear parents! May we have a happy meeting!--Yours,
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Charney, August 6th, 1831.
+
+     My dear Sisters,
+
+You have, I know, read Ritter's "Afrika" from beginning to end, but
+still I do not think you know where Charney is situated, so fetch
+out Keller's old travelling map, that you may be able to accompany
+me on my wanderings. Trace with your finger a line from Vevay to
+Clarens, and thence to the Dent de Jaman; this line represents a
+footpath; and where your finger has been my legs also went this
+morning--for it is now only half-past seven, and I am still
+fasting. I mean to breakfast here, and am writing to you in a neat
+wooden room, waiting till the milk is made warm for me; without, I
+have a view of the bright blue lake; and so I now begin my journal,
+and mean to continue it as I best can during my pedestrian tour.
+
+_After breakfast._--Heavens! here is a pretty business. My landlady
+has just told me with a long face, that there is not a creature in
+the village to show me the way across the Dent, or to carry my
+knapsack, except a young girl; the men being all at work. I usually
+set off every morning very early and quite alone, with my bundle on
+my shoulders, because I find the guides from the inns both too
+expensive and too tiresome; a couple of hours later I hire the
+first honest-looking lad I see, and so I travel famously on foot. I
+need not say how enchanting the lake and the road hither were; you
+must recall for yourself all the beauties you once enjoyed there.
+The footpath is in continued shade, under walnut-trees and up
+hill,--past villas and castles,--along the lake which glitters
+through the foliage; villages everywhere, and brooks and streams
+rushing along from every nook, in every village; then the neat
+tidy houses,--it is all quite too charming, and you feel so fresh
+and so free. Here comes the girl with her steeple hat. I can tell
+you she is vastly pretty into the bargain, and her name is Pauline;
+she has just packed my things into her wicker basket. Adieu!
+
+
+     Evening, Chateau d'Oex, candle-light.
+
+I have had the most delightful journey. What would I not give to
+procure you such a day! But then you must first become two youths
+and be able to climb actively, and drink milk when the opportunity
+offered, and treat with contempt the intense heat, the many rocks
+in the way, the innumerable holes in the path, and the still larger
+holes in your boots, and I fear you are rather too dainty for this;
+but it was most lovely! I shall never forget my journey with
+Pauline; she is one of the nicest girls I ever met, so pretty and
+healthy-looking, and naturally intelligent; she told me anecdotes
+about her village, and I in return told her about Italy; but I know
+who was the most amused.
+
+The previous Sunday, all the young people of _distinction_ in her
+village had gone to a place far across the mountain, to dance there
+in the afternoon. They set off shortly after midnight, arrived
+while it was still dark, lighted a large fire and made coffee.
+Towards morning the men had running and wrestling matches before
+the ladies, (we passed a broken hedge testifying to the truth of
+this;) then they danced, and were at home again by Sunday evening,
+and early on Monday morning they all resumed their labours in the
+vineyards. By Heavens, I felt a strong inclination to become a
+Vaudois peasant, while I was listening to Pauline, when from above
+she pointed out to me the villages where they dance when the
+cherries are ripe, and others where they dance when the cows go to
+pasture in the meadows and give milk. To-morrow they are to dance
+in St. Gingolph; they row across the lake, and any one who can
+play, takes his instrument with him; but Pauline is not to be of
+the party, because her mother will not allow it, from dread of the
+wide lake, and many other girls also do not go for the same reason,
+as they all cling together.
+
+She then asked my leave to say good-day to a cousin of hers, and
+ran down to a neat cottage in the meadow; soon the two girls came
+out together and sat on a bench and chattered; on the Col de Jaman
+above, I saw her relations busily mowing, and herding the cows.
+
+What cries and shouts ensued! Then those above began to _jodel_, on
+which they all laughed. I did not understand one syllable of their
+_patois_, except the beginning, which was, Adieu Pierrot! All these
+sounds were taken up by a merry mad echo, that shouted and laughed
+and _jodelled_ too. Towards noon we arrived at Alliere. When I had
+rested for a time, I once more shouldered my knapsack, for a fat
+old man provoked me by offering to carry it for me; then Pauline
+and I shook hands, and we took leave of each other. I descended
+into the meadows, and if you do not care about Pauline, or if I
+have bored you with her, it is not my fault, but that of the mode
+in which I have described her; nothing could be more pleasant in
+reality, and so was my further journey. I came to a cherry-orchard,
+where the people were gathering the fruit, so I lay down on the
+grass and ate cherries for a time along with them. I took my
+mid-day rest at Latine, in a clean wooden house. The carpenter who
+built it gave me his company to some roast lamb, and pointed out to
+me with pride every table, and press, and chair.
+
+At length I arrived here, at night, through dazzling green meadows,
+interspersed with houses, surrounded by fir-trees and rivulets: the
+church here stands on a velvet green eminence; more houses in the
+distance, and still further away, huts and rocks; and in a ravine,
+patches of snow still lying on the plain. It is one of those
+idyllic spots such as we have seen together in Wattwyl, but the
+village smaller and the mountains more green and lofty. I must
+conclude however to-day by a high eulogy on the Canton de Vaud. Of
+all the countries I know this is the most beautiful, and it is the
+spot where I should most like to live when I become really old. The
+people are so contented, and look so well, and the country also.
+Coming from Italy it is quite touching to see the honesty that
+still exists in the world,--happy faces, a total absence of
+beggars, or saucy officials: in short, there is the most complete
+contrast between the two nations. I thank God for having created so
+much that is beautiful; and may it be His gracious will to permit
+us all, whether in Berlin, England, or in the Chateau d'Oex, to
+enjoy a happy evening and a tranquil night!
+
+
+     Boltigen, August 7th, evening.
+
+The lightning and thunder are terrific outside, and torrents of
+rain besides; in the mountains you first learn respect for weather.
+I have not gone further, for it would have been such a pity to
+traverse the lovely Simmen valley under an umbrella. It was grey
+morning, but delightfully cool for walking in the forenoon. The
+valley at Saanen, and the whole road, is incredibly fresh and gay.
+I am never weary of looking at the verdure. I do believe that if
+during a long life I were always gazing at undulating verdant
+meadows, dotted over with reddish-brown houses, I should always
+experience the same pleasure in looking at them. The road winds the
+whole way through meadows of this kind, and past running streams.
+
+At noon I dined at Zweisimmen, in one of those enormous Bernese
+houses, where everything glitters with neatness and cleanliness,
+and where even the smallest detail is carefully attended to. I
+there dispatched my knapsack by the diligence to Interlaken, and am
+now about to walk as a regular pedestrian through the country; a
+shirt in my pocket, a brush and comb, and my sketch-book, this is
+all I require; but I am very tired. May the weather be fine
+to-morrow!
+
+
+     Wimmis, the 8th.
+
+A pretty affair! the weather is three times as bad as ever. I must
+give up my plan of going to Interlaken to-day, as there is no
+possibility of getting on. For the last few hours the water has
+been pouring straight down, as if the clouds above had been fairly
+squeezed out; the roads are as soft as feather-beds; only
+occasional shreds of the mountains are to be seen, and even these
+but rarely. I almost thought sometimes that I was in the Margravate
+of Brandenburg, and the Simmen valley looked perfectly flat. I was
+obliged to button my waistcoat tight over my sketch-book, for very
+soon my umbrella was of no use whatever, and so I arrived here to
+dinner about one o'clock. I had my breakfast in the following
+place. [_Vide_ page 234.]
+
+
+     Weissenburg, August 8th.
+
+I sketched this on the spot with a pen, so do not laugh at the bold
+stream. I passed the night very uncomfortably at Boltigen. There
+was no room in the inn, owing to a fair, so I was obliged to lodge
+in an adjacent house, where there were swarms of vermin quite as
+bad as in Italy, a creaking house clock, striking hoarsely every
+hour, and a baby that screeched the whole night. I really could not
+help for a time noticing the child's cries, for it screamed in
+every possible key, expressive of every possible emotion; first
+angry, then furious, then whining, and when it could screech no
+longer, it grunted in a deep bass. Let no one tell me that we must
+wish to return to the days of our childhood, because children are
+so happy. I am convinced that such a little mortal as this, flies
+into a rage just as we do, and has also his sleepless nights, and
+his passions, and so forth.
+
+   [Illustration]
+
+This philosophical view occurred to me this morning, while I was
+sketching Weissenburg, and so I wished to communicate it to you on
+the spot; but I took up the 'Constitutionnel,' in which I read
+that Casimir Perier wishes to resign, and many other things that
+furnish matter for reflection; among others a most remarkable
+article on the cholera, which I should like to transcribe, for it
+is so extraordinary. The existence of this disease is totally and
+absolutely denied; only one person had it in Dantzic,--a Jew,--and
+he got well. Then followed a number of "Hegelisms" in French, and
+the election of the deputies--oh world!--As soon as I had finished
+reading the paper, I was obliged to set off again in the rain
+through the meadows. No such enchanting country as this is to be
+seen, even in a dream; in the worst weather, the little churches,
+and the numerous houses, and shrubs, and rills are still truly
+lovely. The verdure to-day was quite in its element. Dinner has
+been long over, and it is still pouring. I intend to go no further
+than Spiez this evening. I regret much that I can neither see this
+place, which seems beautifully situated, nor Spiez, which I know
+from Roesel's sketches. This is, in fact, the climax of the whole
+Simmen valley, and thence the old song says:--
+
+  [Music: Hin-term Nie-sen, vorn am Nie-sen, sind die be-sten
+  Al-pen im Sie-be-thal, Sie-be-thal,
+  Sie-be-thal, Sie-be-thal, Sie-be-thal.]
+
+I sang this the whole day while walking along. The Siebethal,
+however, showed no gratitude for the compliment, and the rain
+continued unremittingly.
+
+
+     Wyler, evening.
+
+They could not take me in at Spiez, for there is no inn there where
+you can lodge, so I was obliged to return here. I very much admired
+the situation of Spiez; it is built on a rock, which projects into
+the lake, with numbers of turrets, and gables, and peaks. There I
+saw a manor-house, with an orangery; a sulky-looking nobleman with
+two sporting dogs at his heels; a little church, and terraces with
+bright flowers. It was all very lovely. To-morrow I shall see it
+from the other side, if the weather permits. To-day it has rained
+for three hours consecutively, and I was well soaked on the way
+here. The mountain streams are superb in such weather, for they
+leap and rage furiously. I crossed one of these demons, the Kander,
+which seemed to have taken leave of its senses, leaping and
+blustering, and foaming; the water looked quite brown, and
+scattered its yellow spray in all directions. A black peak of the
+mountains was here and there visible through the rain-laden clouds,
+which hung deeper into the valley than I ever before saw them. Yet
+the day was most enjoyable.
+
+
+     Wyler, the 9th, morning.
+
+To-day the weather is worse than ever. It has rained the whole
+night through, and this morning too it is pouring. I have however
+intimated that I shall not set out in such weather, and if it
+continues I shall write to you again to-night from Wyler. In the
+meantime I have an opportunity of making acquaintance with my Swiss
+host. They are very primitive. I could not get on my shoes, because
+they had shrunk, owing to the rain. The landlady asked if I wished
+to have a shoe-horn; and as I said I did, she brought me a
+tablespoon; but it answered the purpose. And moreover they are
+eager politicians. Over my bed hangs a horrible distorted face,
+under which is written. "Brinz Baniadofsgi." If he had not a kind
+of Polish costume, it would be difficult to discover whether it is
+intended for a man or a woman, for neither the portrait itself nor
+the inscription throw much light on the subject.
+
+
+     Evening, at Untersee.
+
+All jesting is turned into sad earnest, which in these days may
+easily be the case. The storm has raged furiously, and caused great
+damage and devastation; the people here say that they remember no
+more violent storm and rain for many years; and the hurricane
+rushes on with such incredible rapidity. This morning early the
+weather was merely wet and disagreeable, and yet this afternoon all
+the bridges are swept away, and every passage blocked up for the
+moment. There has been a landslip at the Lake of Brienz, and
+everything is in an uproar.
+
+I have just heard here that war has been proclaimed in Europe; so
+the world certainly bears a wild, bleak aspect at this time, and I
+ought to feel thankful, that at all events for the present I have a
+warm room here, and a comfortable roof over my head. The rain
+ceased for a time early this morning, and I thought that the clouds
+were fairly exhausted; so I left Wyler, but soon found that the
+roads were sadly cut up; but worse was to come; the rain began
+again gently, but came down so violently about nine o'clock, and in
+such sudden squalls, that it was evident something strange was
+brewing. I crept into a half built hut, where a great mass of
+fodder was lying, and nestled comfortably among the fragrant hay. A
+soldier of the Canton, who was on his way to Thun, also crept in
+from the other side, and in the course of an hour, as the weather
+did not improve, we went on our different paths.
+
+I was obliged to take shelter again under a roof at Leisengen, and
+waited there a long time; but as my luggage was at Interlaken, a
+distance of only two hours from thence, I thought that I would set
+the weather at defiance; so about one o'clock I set out for
+Interlaken. There was literally nothing to be seen but the grey
+surface of the lake,--no mountains, and seldom even the outlines of
+the opposite shore. The little springs, which as you may remember
+often run along by the footpaths, had swollen into streams,
+through which I was obliged to wade; and where the road was hilly,
+the waters accumulated in the hollows and formed a pool, so I was
+forced to jump over dripping hedges, into marshy meadows; the small
+blocks of wood--by means of which brooks are crossed here--lay deep
+under the water; at one moment I found myself between two of these
+brooks, which had run into each other, and for a considerable time
+I was obliged to walk against the current, above my ankles in
+water. All the streams are black, or chocolate-brown, looking like
+earth flowing along. Torrents poured down from above; the wind
+shook down the water from the dripping walnut-trees; the waterfalls
+which tumble into the lake thundered frightfully from both shores.
+You could trace the course of the brown muddy streaks, rushing
+along through the pure waters of the lake, which, in the midst of
+all this uproar, remained perfectly tranquil, its surface scarcely
+ruffled, quietly receiving all the blustering streams that poured
+into its bosom.
+
+A man now came up, who had taken off his shoes and stockings, and
+turned up his trowsers. This made me feel rather nervous. Presently
+I met two women, who said that I could not go through the village,
+for all the bridges were gone. I asked how far it was to
+Interlaken. "A good hour," they said. I could not make up my mind
+to turn back, so I went on towards the village, where the people
+shouted to me from the windows, that I could come no further,
+because the waters were rushing down so impetuously from the
+mountains; and certainly there was a fine commotion in the middle
+of the village. The muddy stream had swept everything along with
+it, eddying round the houses, and running along the meadows and
+footpaths, and finally thundering down into the lake. Luckily there
+was a little boat there, in which I was ferried across to Neuhaus,
+though this expedition in an open boat, in torrents of rain, was
+far from pleasant. My condition, when I arrived at Neuhaus, was
+miserable enough; I looked as if I wore long black boots over my
+light-coloured trowsers, my shoes and stockings quite up to my
+knees, dark brown; then came the original white, then a soaked blue
+paletot; even my sketch-book, that I had buttoned under my
+waistcoat, was wet through.
+
+I arrived in this plight at Interlaken, where I was very ill
+received, for the people there either could not or would not find
+room for me, and so I was forced to return to Untersee, where I am
+famously lodged, and most comfortable. Singularly enough, I had
+been all along anticipating with such pleasure revisiting the inn
+at Interlaken, of which I had so many reminiscences, and I drove up
+in my little Neuhaus carriage to the Nuss-Baum Platz, and saw the
+well-known glass gallery; the pretty landlady, too, came to the
+door, but somewhat aged and altered. Neither the dreadful storms,
+nor the various discomforts I had endured, annoyed me half so much
+as not being able to remain at Interlaken, consequently for the
+first time since I left Vevay I was out of humour for half an hour,
+and obliged to
+
+  [Music]
+
+sing Beethoven's adagio in A flat major, three or four times over,
+before I could recover my equanimity. I learned here, for the first
+time, the damage the storm had already done, and may yet do, for
+the rain is still incessant.
+
+_Half-past Nine o'clock at Night._--The bridge at Zweiluetschenen is
+carried away; the _vetturini_ from Brienz, and Grindelwald, will
+not encounter the risk of driving home, from the fear of some rock
+falling on their heads. The water here has risen to within a foot
+and a half of the Aar bridge; the gloom of the sky I cannot
+describe. I mean to wait here patiently; besides, I do not require
+the aid of localities, to enable me to summon up my reminiscences.
+They have given me a room where there is a piano; it indeed bears
+the date of the year 1794, and somewhat resembles in tone the
+little old "Silbermann" in my room at home, so I took a fancy to it
+at the very first chord I struck, and it also recalls you to my
+mind. This piano has outlived many things, and probably never
+dreamt that I was likely to compose by its aid, as I was not born
+till 1809, now fully two-and-twenty years ago; in the meantime, the
+piano, though seven-and-thirty years old, has plenty of good
+material in it yet.
+
+I have some new "Lieder" in hand, dear sisters. You have not seen
+my favourite one in E major "Auf der Reise,"--it is very
+sentimental. I am now composing one which will not, I fear, be very
+good; but it will, at all events, please us three, for it is at
+least well intended. The words are Goethe's, but I don't say what
+they are; it is very daring in me to compose for this poetry, and
+the words are by no means suitable for music, but I thought them so
+divinely beautiful, that I could not resist singing them to myself.
+Enough for to-day; so good night, dear ones.
+
+
+     August 10th.
+
+The weather this morning is clear and bright, and the storm has
+passed away; would that all storms ended as quickly, and were as
+soon allayed! I have passed a glorious day, sketching, composing,
+and inhaling fresh air. In the afternoon I went on horseback to
+Interlaken, for no man can go there on foot at this moment. The
+whole road is flooded, so that even on horseback I got very wet. In
+this place, too, every street is inundated and impassable. How
+beautiful Interlaken is! How humble and insignificant we feel when
+we see how splendid the good Lord has made this world; and nowhere
+can you see it in greater magnificence than here. I sketched for my
+father one of the walnut-trees he so much admires, and for the same
+reason I mean to send him a faithful drawing of one of the Bernese
+houses. Various parties of ladies and gentlemen, and children,
+drove past and stared at me; I thought to myself that they were now
+enjoying the same luxury I formerly did, and would fain have called
+out to them not to forget this! Towards evening, the snowy
+mountains were glowing in the clearest outlines and in the
+loveliest hues.
+
+When I came back. I asked for some music paper, and they referred
+me to their Pastor, and he to the Forest-ranger, whose daughter
+gave me two pretty neat sheets. The "Lied" which I alluded to
+yesterday is now finished; I cannot help after all telling you what
+it is--but you must not laugh at me--it is actually,--but don't
+think I am seized with hydrophobia--a sonnet, "Die Liebende
+schreibt."[21] I am afraid its merit is not great; I think it was
+more inwardly felt than outwardly well expressed; still there are
+some good passages in it, and to-morrow I am going to set to music
+a little poem of Uhland's; a couple of pieces for the piano are
+also in progress. I can unfortunately form no judgment of my new
+compositions; I cannot tell whether they are good or bad; and this
+arises from the circumstance that all the people to whom I have
+played anything for the last twelve months, forthwith glibly
+declared it to be wonderfully beautiful, and that will never do. I
+really wish that some one would let me have a little rational blame
+once more, or what would be still more agreeable, a little
+_rational_ praise, and then I should find it less indispensable to
+act the censor towards myself, and to be so distrustful of my own
+powers. Nevertheless, I must go on writing in the meantime.
+
+  [21] In the "Liederheft," Opus 15 of his posthumous works.
+
+When I was at the Forest-ranger's, I heard that the whole country
+was devastated, and the most sad intelligence comes from all sides.
+All the bridges in the Hasli valley are entirely swept away, and
+also many houses and cottages. A man came here to-day from
+Lauterbrunnen, and he was up to his shoulders in water; the high
+road is ruined, and what sounded most dismal of all to me, a
+quantity of furniture and household things were seen floating down
+the Kander, coming no one knows whence. Happily the waters are
+beginning to subside, but the damage they have done cannot so
+easily be repaired. My travelling plans have also been considerably
+disturbed by these inundations, for, if there be any risk, I shall
+certainly not go into the mountains.
+
+
+     The 11th.
+
+So I now close the first part of my journal, and send it off to
+you. To-morrow I shall begin a new one, for I intend then to go to
+Lauterbrunnen. The road is practicable for pedestrians, and not an
+idea of any danger; travellers from thence have come here to-day,
+but for carriages, the road will not be passable during the
+remainder of the year. I purpose, therefore, proceeding across the
+Lesser Scheideck to Grindelwald, and by the Great Scheideck to
+Meiringen; by Furka and Grimsel to Altorf, and so on to Lucerne;
+storms, rain, and everything else permitting,--which means, if God
+will. This morning early, I was on the Harder, and saw the
+mountains in the utmost splendour. I never remember the Jungfrau so
+clear and so glowing as both yesterday evening and at early dawn
+to-day. I rode back to Interlaken, where I finished my sketch of
+the walnut-tree. After that I composed for a time, and wrote three
+waltzes for the Forest-ranger's daughter on the remaining
+music-paper she had given me, politely presenting them to her
+myself. I have just returned from a watery expedition to an
+inundated reading-room, as I wished to see how the Poles are
+getting on--unluckily there is no reference to them in the papers.
+I must now occupy myself till the evening in packing, but I am most
+reluctant to leave this room, where I am so comfortable, and shall
+sadly miss my little piano. I intend to sketch the view from this
+window with my pen on the back of my letter, and also to write out
+my second "Lied," and then Untersee will soon also belong to my
+reminiscences. "Ach! wie schnell!" I quote myself, which is not
+over-modest, but these lines recur to me but too often when the
+days are shortening, the leaves of the travelling map turned over,
+and first Weimar, then Munich, and lastly Vienna, are all things of
+the past year. Well! here you have my window! [_Vide_ page 246.]
+
+_An hour later._--My plans are altered, and I stay here till the
+day after to-morrow. The people say that by that time the roads
+will be considerably better, and there is plenty here both to see
+and to sketch. The Aar has not risen to such a height for seventy
+years. To-day people were stationed on the bridge, with poles and
+hooks, watching to catch any fragments of the broken-down bridges.
+It did look so strange to see a black object come swimming along
+in the distance from the hills, which was at last recognized to be
+a piece of balustrade, or a cross-beam, or something of the sort,
+when all the people made a rush at it, and tried to fish it up with
+their hooks, and at length succeeded in dragging the monster out of
+the water. But enough of water,--that is, of my journal. It is now
+evening, and dark. I am writing by candle-light, and should he so
+glad if I could knock at your door, and take my seat beside you at
+the round table. It is the old story over again. Wherever it is
+bright and cheerful, and I am well and happy, I most keenly feel
+your absence, and most long to be with you again. Who knows,
+however, whether we may not come here together in future years, and
+then think of this day, as we now do of former ones? But as none
+can tell whether this may ever come to pass, I shall meditate no
+longer on the subject, but write out my "Lied," take another peep
+of the mountains, wish you all happiness and good fortune, and thus
+close my journal.
+
+   [Illustration]
+
+
+     Lauterbrunnen, August 13th, 1831.
+
+I have just returned from an expedition on foot to the Schmadri
+Bach, and the Breithorn. All that you can by possibility conceive
+as to the grandeur and imposing forms of the mountains here, must
+fall far short of the reality of nature. That Goethe could write
+nothing in Switzerland but a few weak poems, and still weaker
+letters, is to me as incomprehensible as many other things in this
+world. The road here is again in a lamentable state; where, six
+days ago, there was the most beautiful highway, there is now only a
+desolate mass of rocks; numbers of huge blocks lying about, and
+heaps of rubbish and sand. No trace whatever of human hands to be
+seen. The waters, indeed, have entirely subsided, but they are
+still in a troubled state, for from time to time you can hear the
+stones tossed about, and the waterfalls also in the midst of their
+white foam, roll down black stones into the valley.
+
+My guide pointed out to me a pretty new house, standing in the
+midst of a wild turbulent stream; he said that it belonged to his
+brother-in-law and formerly stood in a beautiful meadow, which had
+been very profitable; the man was obliged to leave the house during
+the night; the meadow has disappeared for ever, and masses of
+pebbles and stones have usurped its place. "He never was rich, but
+now he is poor," said he, in concluding his sad story. The
+strangest thing is, that in the very centre of this frightful
+devastation,--the Luetschine having overflowed the whole extent
+of the valley--among the marshy meadows, and masses of rocks,
+where there is no longer even a trace of a road, stands a
+_char-a-banc_--and is likely to stand for some time to come. It
+chanced that the people in it wished to drive through at the very
+time of the hurricane; then came the inundation, so they were
+forced to leave the carriage and everything else to fate, thus the
+_char-a-banc_ is still standing waiting there. It was a very
+frightful sight when we reached the spot, where the whole valley,
+with its roads and embankments, is a perfect rocky sea; and my
+guide, who went first, kept whispering to himself, "'sisch
+furchtbar!" The torrent had carried into the middle of the stream
+some large trunks of trees, which are standing aloft; for at the
+same moment some huge fragments of rocks having been flung against
+them, the bare trees were closely wedged in betwixt them, and they
+now stand nearly perpendicular in the bed of the river.
+
+I should never come to an end were I to try to tell you all the
+various forms of havoc which I saw between this place and
+Untersee. Still the beauty of the valley made a stronger impression
+on me than I can describe. It is much to be regretted, that when
+you were in this country, you went no further than Staubbach; for
+it is from there that the valley of Lauterbrunnen really begins.
+The Schwarzer Moench, and all the other snowy mountains in the
+background, become more mighty and grand, and on every side bright
+foaming cascades tumble into the valley. You gradually approach the
+mountains covered with snow, and the glaciers in the background,
+through pine woods, and oaks, and maple-trees. The moist meadows,
+too, were covered with a profusion of brilliant flowers--snakewort,
+the wild scabious, campanulas, and many others. The Luetschine had
+accumulated masses of stones at the sides, having swept along
+fragments of rocks, as my guide said, "bigger than a stove," then
+the carved brown wooden houses, and the hedges; it is all beautiful
+beyond measure! Unfortunately we could not get to the Schmadri
+Bach, as bridges, paths, and fords, were all gone; but it was a
+walk I can never forget.
+
+I also tried to sketch the Moench; but what can you hope to do with
+a small pencil? Hegel indeed says, "that every single human thought
+is more sublime than the whole of Nature;" but in this place I
+consider that too presumptuous; the axiom sounds indeed very fine,
+but is a confounded paradox nevertheless. I am quite contented, in
+the meantime, to adhere to Nature, which is the safest of the two.
+You know the situation of the inn here, and if you cannot recall
+it, refer to my former Swiss drawing book, where you will find it
+sketched, badly enough, and where I put in a footpath in front,
+from imagination, which made me laugh heartily to-day, when I
+thought of it. I am at this moment looking out of the same window,
+and gazing at the dark mountains, for it is late in the evening,
+that is, a quarter to eight o'clock, and I have an idea, which is
+"more sublime than the whole of Nature"--I mean to go to bed; so
+good night, dear ones.
+
+
+     The 14th, ten o'clock in the forenoon.
+
+From the dairy hut on the Wengern Alp, in heavenly weather, I send
+you my greetings.
+
+
+     Grindelwald, evening.
+
+I could not write more to you early this morning; I was most
+reluctant to leave the Jungfrau. What a day this has been for me!
+Ever since we were here together I have wished to see the Lesser
+Scheideck once more. So I woke early to-day, with some misgivings,
+for so much might intervene--bad weather, clouds, rain, fogs--but
+none of these occurred. It was a day as if made on purpose for me
+to cross the Wengern Alp. The sky was flecked with white clouds,
+floating far above the highest snowy peaks; no mists below on any
+of the mountains, and all their pinnacles glittering brightly in
+the morning air; every undulation, and the face of every hill,
+clear and distinct. Why should I even attempt to portray it? You
+have already seen the Wengern Alp, but at that time we had bad
+weather, whereas to-day the whole mountain range was in holiday
+attire. Nothing was wanting; from thundering avalanches, to its
+being Sunday, and people dressed in their best going to church,
+just as it was then.
+
+The hills had only dwelt in my memory as gigantic peaks, for their
+great altitude had entirely absorbed me. To-day I was struck with
+amazement at the immense extent of their base, their solid,
+spacious masses, and the connection of all these huge piles, which
+seem to lean towards each other, and to reach out their hands to
+one another. In addition to this you must imagine every glacier,
+and snowy plateau, and point of rock, dazzlingly lighted up and
+glittering. Then the far summits of distant mountain ranges
+stretching hither, as if surveying the others. I do believe that
+such are the thoughts of the Almighty. Those who do not yet know
+Him, may here see Him, and the nature He created, visibly
+displayed. Then the fresh, bracing air, which refreshes you when
+weary, and cools you when it is warm,--and so many springs! I must
+at some future time write you a separate treatise on springs, but I
+have not time for it to-day, as I have something particular to tell
+you.
+
+Now you will say, I suppose, he came down the mountain again, and
+is going to inform us once more how beautiful Switzerland is. Not
+at all. When I arrived at the herdsman's hut, I was told that in a
+meadow far up the Alps, there was to be a great fete this very
+day, and I saw people at intervals climbing the mountain. I was not
+at all fatigued; an Alpine fete is not to be seen every day; the
+weather said, _yes_; the guide was willing. "Let us go to
+Intramen," said I. The old herdsman went first, so we were obliged
+to climb very vigorously; for Intramen is more than a thousand feet
+higher than the Lesser Scheideck. The herdsman was a ruthless
+fellow, for he ran on before us like a cat; he soon took pity on my
+guide, and relieved him of my cloak and knapsack, but even with
+them he continued to push forward so eagerly that we really could
+not keep up with him. The path was frightfully steep; he extolled
+it, however, saying that there was a much nearer, but much steeper
+track: he was about sixty years of age, and when my youthful guide
+and I with difficulty surmounted a hill, we invariably saw him
+descending the next one. We walked on for two hours in the most
+fatiguing path I ever encountered; first a steep ascent, then down
+again into a hollow, over heaps of crumbling stones, and brooks and
+ditches, across two meadows covered with snow, in the most profound
+solitude, without a footpath, or the most remote trace of the hand
+of man; occasionally we could still hear the avalanches from the
+Jungfrau; otherwise all was still, and not a tree to be seen.
+
+When this silence and solitude had continued for some time, and we
+had clambered to the top of a grassy acclivity, we suddenly came in
+sight of a vast number of people standing in a circle, laughing,
+speaking, and shouting. They were all in gay dresses, and had
+flowers in their hats; there were a great many girls, some tables
+with casks of wine, and all around deep solemn silence, and
+tremendous mountains. It was singular that while I was in the act
+of climbing, I thought of nothing but rocks and stones, and the
+snow and the track; but the moment I saw human beings, all the rest
+was forgotten, and I only thought of men, and their sports, and the
+merry fete. It was really a fine sight. The scene was in a spacious
+green meadow far above the clouds; opposite were the snowy
+mountains in all their prodigious altitude, more especially the
+dome of the great Eiger, the Schreckhorn, and the Wetterhoerner, and
+all the others as far as the Bluemli's Alp; the Lauterbrunnen valley
+lay far beneath us in the misty depths, quite small, as well as our
+road of yesterday, with all the little cataracts like threads, the
+houses like dots, and the trees like grass. Far in the background
+the Lake of Thun occasionally glanced out of the mist.
+
+The crowd now began wrestling, and singing, and drinking, and
+laughing; all healthy, strong men. I was much amused by the
+wrestling, which I had never before seen. The girls served the men
+with _Kirschwasser_ and _Schnapps_; the flasks passed from hand to
+hand, and I drank with them, and gave three little children some
+cakes, which made them quite happy; a very tipsy old peasant sang
+me some songs; then they all sang; then the guide favoured us with
+a modern song; and then little boys fought. _Everything_ pleased
+me on the Alps, and I remained lying there till towards evening,
+and made myself quite at home. We descended rapidly into the
+meadows below, and soon descried the familiar inn, and its windows
+glittering in the evening sun; a fresh breeze from the glaciers
+began to blow; this soon cooled us. It is now getting late, and
+from time to time avalanches are heard,--so thus has my Sunday been
+spent.--A fete-day indeed!
+
+
+     On the Faulhorn, August 15th.
+
+I am shivering with cold! Outside thick snow is falling, and the
+wind raging and blustering. We are eight thousand feet above the
+level of the sea, and a long tract of snow to traverse, but here I
+am! Nothing can be seen; all day the weather has been dreadful.
+When I remember how fine it was yesterday, while I earnestly wish
+that it may be as fine to-morrow, it reminds me of life, for we are
+always hovering between the past and the future. Our excursion of
+yesterday seems as far past and remote, as if I knew it only from
+old memories, and had scarcely been present myself; for to-day when
+during five mortal hours we were struggling on, against rain and
+fog, sticking in the mud, and seeing nothing round us but grey
+vapours, I could scarcely realize that it ever was or ever will be
+again fine weather, or that I ever lay idly stretched on this wet
+marshy grass. Besides, everything here wears such a wintry aspect;
+heated stoves, thick snow, cloaks, freezing, shivering people. I am
+at this moment in the highest inn in Europe; and just as in St.
+Peter's, you look down on every church, and on the Simplon, upon
+every road, so from hence I look down on all other inns; but not
+_morally_, for this is little more than a few wooden planks. Never
+mind. I am now going to bed, and I will no longer watch my own
+breath. Good night! "Tom's a cold."
+
+
+     Hospital, August 18th.
+
+I have not been able to open my journal for two or three days, as
+when night came I had no longer time for anything, but to dry
+myself and my clothes at the fire, to warm myself, to sigh over the
+weather, like the stove behind which I took refuge, and to sleep a
+good deal; besides, I did not wish to try your patience, by my
+everlasting repetitions of how deep I had sunk in the mud, and how
+incessantly it rained, and so forth. During the last few days in
+reality I went through the most beautiful country, and yet saw
+nothing but thick fogs, and water in the sky, and from the sky, and
+on the earth. I passed places that I had long wished to visit,
+without being able to enjoy them; what also damped my writing mood,
+was being obliged to battle with the weather, and if it continues
+the same, I shall only write occasionally, for really I should have
+nothing to say, but "a grey sky--rain and fog." I have been on the
+Faulhorn, the Great Scheideck, on Grimsel Spital, and to-day I
+crossed Grimsel and Furka, and the principal objects I have seen
+were the points of my shabby umbrella, and I had not even a glimpse
+of the huge mountains. At one moment, to-day, the Finsteraarhorn
+came to light, but it looked as savage as if it wished to devour
+us; and yet if we were a single half-hour without rain, it was
+truly beautiful. A journey on foot through this country, even in
+the most unfavourable weather, is the most enchanting thing you can
+possibly imagine; if the sky were bright, I think the excess of
+pleasure would be quite overpowering; I must not therefore complain
+too much of the weather, for I have had my full share of enjoyment.
+
+During the last few days I felt like Tantalus. When I was on the
+Scheideck, a glimpse of the lower part of the Wetterhorn was
+sometimes visible through the clouds, and it seemed beyond measure
+magnificent and sublime; but I only saw the base. On the Faulhorn,
+I could not distinguish objects fifty paces off, although I stayed
+there till ten o'clock in the morning. We went down to the
+Scheideck in a heavy snow-storm, by a very wet and difficult path,
+which the incessant rain had made worse than usual. We arrived at
+Grimsel Spital in rain and storm. To-day I wished to have ascended
+the Sidelhorn, but was obliged to give it up on account of the fog.
+The Mayenwand was shrouded in grey clouds, and we had only a single
+peep of the Finsteraarhorn, when we were on the Furka. We also
+arrived here in a torrent of rain and water everywhere, but all
+this does not signify. My guide is a capital fellow: if it rains,
+he sings and _jodels_; if it is fine, so much the better; and
+though I failed in seeing some of the finest objects, still I saw a
+great deal that was interesting.
+
+On this occasion I have formed a particular friendship for the
+glaciers; they are indeed, the most marvellous monsters in the
+world. How strangely they are all tumbled about; here, a row of
+jagged points, there, toppling crags, and above, towers and
+bastions, while on every side, crevices and ravines are visible,
+all of the most wondrous pure ice, that rejects all soil of earth,
+casting up again on the surface the stones, sand, and gravel, flung
+down by the mountains. Then the superb colouring, when the sun
+shines on them, and their mysterious advance--they sometimes move
+on a foot and a half in a single day, so that the people in the
+village are in the greatest anxiety and alarm, when the glacier
+arrives so quietly, and yet with such irresistible force, for it
+shivers rocks and stones when they lie in the way--then the ominous
+crashing and thundering, and the rushing of so many springs near
+and round. They are splendid miracles. I was in the Rosenlaui
+glacier, which forms a kind of cave, that you can creep through; it
+looks as if built of emeralds, only more transparent. Above,
+around, on all sides, you can see rivulets running between the
+clear ice. In the centre of this narrow passage, the ice has left a
+large round window, through which you look down on the valley, and
+issue forth again under an arch of ice, and high above, black peaks
+rear their heads, from which masses of ice roll down in the boldest
+undulations. The glacier of the Rhone is the most imposing that I
+have seen, and the sun burst forth on it as we passed early this
+morning. This is a suggestive sight, and you get a casual glimpse
+of the rocky peak of a mountain, a plateau covered with snow,
+cataracts, and bridges spanning them, and masses of crumbling
+stones and rocks; in short, even if you see little in Switzerland,
+it is at all events more than is to be seen in any other country.
+
+I have been drawing very busily, and think I have made some
+progress. I even tried to sketch the Jungfrau; it will at least
+serve as a reminiscence, and I can enjoy the thought that these
+strokes were actually made on the spot itself. I see people rushing
+through Switzerland, and declaring that they find nothing to admire
+there, or anywhere else (except themselves); not the least affected
+nor roused, remaining cold and prosaic, even in presence of the
+mountains; when I meet such people I should like to give them a
+good drubbing. Two Englishmen and an English lady are at this
+moment sitting beside me near the stove; they are as wooden as
+sticks. We have been travelling the same road for a couple of days,
+and I declare the people have never uttered a syllable except of
+abuse, that there were no fireplaces either on the Grimsel, or
+here; but that there are _mountains_ here, is a fact to which they
+never allude; their whole journey is occupied in scolding their
+guide, who laughs at them, in quarrelling with the innkeepers, and
+in yawning in each others' faces. They think everything
+commonplace, because they are themselves commonplace, therefore
+they are not happier in Switzerland than they would be in Bernau.
+I maintain that happiness is relative; another would thank God that
+he could see all this, and so I will be that other!
+
+
+     Fluelen, August 19th.
+
+A day made for a journey; fine, and enjoyable, and bracing. When we
+wished to start this morning at six o'clock, there was such a storm
+of sleet and snow that we were obliged to wait till nine o'clock,
+when the sun came forth, the clouds dispersed, and we had
+delightful bright weather as far as this place; but now sombre
+clouds, heavy with rain, have collected over the lake, so that no
+doubt to-morrow the old troubles will break loose again. But how
+glorious this day has been, so clear and sunny--we had the most
+charming journey! You know the St. Gothard Road in all its beauty;
+you lose much by coming down from above, instead of ascending from
+this point, for the grand surprise of the Urner Loch is entirely
+lost, and the new road which has been made, with all the grandeur,
+as well as convenience, of the Simplon, impairs the effect of the
+Devil's Bridge: inasmuch as close beside it a new arch, much bolder
+and larger, has been constructed, which makes the old bridge look
+quite insignificant, but the ancient crumbling walls look much more
+romantic and picturesque. Though the view of Andermatt is thus
+lost, and the new Devil's Bridge far from being poetical, still you
+go merrily downhill all day, on a delightfully smooth road, flying
+rapidly past the various localities, and instead of being sprinkled
+by the foam of the waterfall on the old bridge as formerly, and
+endangered by the wind, you now pass along far above the stream,
+between two ranges of solid parapets.
+
+We came past Goeschenen and Wasen and presently appeared the huge
+firs and beech-trees close to Amsteg; then the charming valley of
+Altorf, with its cottages, meadows, and woods, its rocks and snowy
+mountains. We rested at Altorf in a Capuchin Convent, situated on a
+height; and finally, here I am on the banks of the Vierwaldstadt
+Lake. To-morrow I purpose crossing the lake to Lucerne, where I
+hope to find letters from you. I shall then also get rid of a party
+of young people from Berlin, who have been pursuing almost the same
+route with me, meeting me at every turn, and boring me terribly;
+the patriotism of a lieutenant, a dyer, and a young carpenter,--all
+three bent on destroying France,--was peculiarly distasteful to me.
+
+
+     Sarnen, the 20th.
+
+I crossed the Vierwaldstadt Lake early this morning, in a continued
+pour of rain, and found your welcome letter of the 5th in Lucerne.
+As it contained nothing but good tidings, I immediately arranged a
+tour of three days to Unterwalden and the Bruenig. I intend to call
+again at Lucerne for your next letter, and then I am off to the
+West, and out of Switzerland. I shall take leave of it with deep
+regret. The country is beautiful beyond all conception; and though
+the weather is again odious,--rain and storms the whole day, and
+all through the night,--yet the Tellen Platte, the Gruetli, Brunnen
+and Schwytz, and the dazzling green of the meadows this evening in
+Unterwalden, are too lovely ever to be forgotten. The hue of this
+green is most unique, refreshing the eye and the whole being. I
+shall certainly attend to your kind precautionary injunctions, dear
+Mother, but you need be under no apprehensions about me. I am by no
+means careless with regard to my health, and have not, for a long
+time, felt so well as during my pedestrian excursions in
+Switzerland. If eating, and drinking, and sleeping, and music in
+one's head, can make a man healthy, then, God be praised, I may
+well call myself so; for my guide and I vie with each other in
+eating and drinking, and not less so unluckily in singing. In
+sleeping alone I surpass him; and though I sometimes disturb him by
+my trumpet or oboe tones, he in turn cuts short my morning sleep.
+Please God, therefore, we shall have a happy meeting. Before that
+time arrives, however, many a page of my journal must yet travel to
+you; but even this interval will quickly pass, just as everything
+quickly passes, except indeed what is best of all!--so let us be
+true and loving to each other.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Engelberg, August 23rd, 1831.
+
+My heart is so full that I must tell you about it. In this
+enchanting valley I have just taken up Schiller's "Wilhelm Tell,"
+and read half of the first scene; there is surely no genius like
+that of Germany! Heaven knows why it is so, but I do think that no
+other nation could fully comprehend such an opening scene, far less
+be able to compose it. This is what I call a poem, and a beginning;
+first the pure, clear verse, in which the lake, smooth as a mirror,
+and all else, is so vividly described, and then the slow
+commonplace Swiss talk, and Baumgarten coming in,--it is quite
+glorious! How fresh, how powerful, how exciting! We have no such
+work as this in music, and yet even that sphere ought one day to
+produce something equally perfect. It is so admirable in him too,
+to have created an entire Switzerland for himself, inasmuch as he
+never saw it, and yet all is so faithful and so strikingly
+truthful; the people and life, the scenery and nature. I was
+delighted when the old innkeeper here, in a solitary mountain
+village, brought me from the monastery the book with the well-known
+characters and old familiar names; but the opening again quite
+surpassed all my expectations. It is now more than four years since
+I read it. I mean presently to go over to the monastery, to work
+off my excitement on the organ.
+
+     Afternoon.
+
+Do not be astonished at my enthusiasm, but read the scene through
+again yourself, and then you will find my excitement quite natural.
+Such passages as those where all the shepherds and hunters shout
+"Save him! save him!" in the close at the Gruetli, when the sun is
+about to rise, could indeed only have occurred to a German, and
+above all to Schiller; and the whole piece is crowded with similar
+passages. Let me refer to that particular one at the end of the
+second scene, where Tell comes with the rescued Baumgarten to
+Stauffacher, and the agitating conference closes in such
+tranquillity and peace: this, along with the beauty of the thought,
+is so thoroughly Swiss. Then the beginning of the Gruetli--the
+symphony which the orchestra ought to play at the end I composed in
+my mind to-day, because I could do nothing satisfactory on the
+little organ: altogether a variety of plans and ideas occurred to
+me. There is a vast deal to do in this world, and I mean to be
+industrious. The expression that Goethe made use of to me, that
+Schiller could have _supplied_ two great tragedies every year, with
+its business-like tone, always inspired me with particular respect:
+but not till this morning did the full force of its signification
+become clear to me, and it has made me feel that I must set to work
+in earnest. Even the mistakes are captivating, and there is
+something grand in them; and though certainly Bertha, Rudenz, and
+old Attinghausen, seem to me great blemishes, still Schiller's idea
+is evident, and he was in a manner forced to do as he has done; and
+it is consolatory to find that even so great a man could for once
+commit such an egregious mistake.
+
+I have passed a most enjoyable morning, and I feel in the kind of
+mood which makes you long to recall such a man to life, in order to
+thank him, and inspiring an earnest desire, one day, to compose a
+work which shall impress others with similar feelings.
+
+Probably you do not understand what induced me to take up my
+quarters here in Engelberg. It happened thus:--I have not had a
+single day's rest since I left Untersee, and therefore wished to
+remain for a day at Meiringen, but was tempted by the lovely
+weather in the morning, to come on here. The usual rain and wind
+assailed me on the mountains, and so I arrived very tired. This is
+the nicest inn imaginable,--clean, tidy, very small and rustic,--an
+old white-haired innkeeper; a wooden house, situated in a meadow, a
+little apart from the road; and the people so kind and cordial,
+that I feel quite at home. I think this kind of domestic comfort is
+only to be found among those who speak the German tongue; at all
+events, I never met with it anywhere else; and though other nations
+may not feel the want of it, or scarcely care about it, still _I_
+am a native of Hamburg, and so it makes me feel happy and at home.
+It is not therefore strange that I decided on taking my day's rest
+here with these worthy old people. My room has windows on every
+side, commanding a view of the valley: the room is prettily
+panelled with wood; some coloured texts and a crucifix are hanging
+on the walls; there is a solid green stove, and a bench encircling
+it, and two lofty bedsteads. When I am lying in bed I have the
+following view:--
+
+   [Illustration]
+
+I have failed again in my buildings, and in the hills too, but I
+hope to make a better sketch of it for you in my book, if the
+weather is tolerable to-morrow. I shall always consider this valley
+to be one of the loveliest in all Switzerland. I have not yet seen
+the gigantic mountains by which it is encompassed, as they have
+been all day shrouded in mist; but the beautiful meadows, the
+numerous brooks, the houses, and the foot of the hills, so far as I
+could see them, are exquisitely lovely. The green of the
+Unterwalden is more brilliant than in any other canton, and it is
+celebrated for its meadows even among the Swiss. The previous
+journey too from Sarnen was enchanting, and never did I see larger
+or finer trees, or a more fruitful country. Moreover the road is
+attended with as few difficulties as if you were traversing a large
+garden; the declivities are clothed with tall slender beeches; the
+stones overgrown by moss and herbs; then there are springs, brooks,
+small lakes, and houses: on one side is a view of the Unterwalden
+and its green plains; and shortly after a view of the whole vale of
+Hasli, the snowy mountains, and cataracts leaping down from rocky
+precipices; the road too is shaded the whole way by enormous trees.
+
+Yesterday, early, as I told you, I was tempted by the bright sun to
+cross the Genthel valley to ascend the Joch, but on the summit the
+most dreadful weather set in; we were obliged to make our way
+through the snow, and this was sometimes anything but pleasant. We
+speedily, however, emerged out of the sleet and snow, and an
+enchanting moment ensued, when the clouds broke, while we were
+still standing in them; and far beneath us, we saw through the
+mists as through a black veil, the green valley of Engelberg. We
+soon made our way down, and heard the silvery bell of the monastery
+ring out the Ave Maria. We next saw the white building on the
+meadow, and arrived here after an expedition of nine hours. I need
+not say how acceptable at such a time is a comfortable inn, and how
+good the rice and milk seems, and how long you sleep next morning.
+
+To-day we have had very disagreeable weather, so they brought me
+"Wilhelm Tell" from the library of the monastery, and the rest you
+know. I was much struck by Schiller having so completely failed in
+portraying Rudenz, for the whole character is feeble, and without
+sufficient motive, and it seems as if he had resolved purposely to
+represent him throughout, in the worst possible light. His words,
+in the scene with the apple, might tend to redeem him, but being
+preceded by that with Bertha, they make no impression. When he
+joins the Swiss, after the death of Attinghausen, it might be
+supposed that he is changed, but he instantly proclaims that his
+Bertha is carried off, so again he has as little merit as ever. It
+occurred to me that if he had uttered the very same manly words
+against Gessler, without the explanation with Bertha having
+previously taken place, and if such a result had arisen out of this
+in the following act, the character would have been much better,
+and the explanatory scene not so merely theatrical as it now is.
+This is certainly very like the egg and the hen, but I should like
+to hear your opinion on the subject. I dare not speak to one of our
+learned men on such matters; these gentlemen are a vast deal too
+wise! If however I chance some of these days to meet one of those
+youthful modern poets, who look down on Schiller, and only partly
+approve of him; so much the worse for him, for I must infallibly
+crush him to death.
+
+Now, good night; I must rise very early to-morrow; it is to be a
+grand fete to-day in the monastery, and a solemn religious service,
+and I am to play the organ for them. The monks were listening this
+morning while I was extemporizing a little, and were so pleased,
+that they invited me to play the people in and out at their
+festival to-morrow. The father organist has also given me the
+subject on which I am to extemporize; it is better than any that
+would have occurred to an organist in Italy.
+
+  [Music]
+
+I shall see to-morrow what I can make of this. I played a couple of
+new pieces of mine on the organ this afternoon in the church, and
+they sounded rather well. When I came past the monastery the same
+evening, the church was closed, and scarcely were the doors shut,
+when the monks began to sing nocturns fervently, in the dark
+church; they intoned the deep B, which vibrated splendidly, and
+could be heard far down the valley.
+
+
+     August 24th.
+
+This has been another splendid day--the weather bright and
+enjoyable, and the bluest sky that I have seen since I left
+Chamouni; it was a holiday in the village, and in all the
+mountains. After long-continued fogs, and every variety of bad
+weather, once more to see from the window in the morning the clear
+range of mountains and their pinnacles, is indeed a grand
+spectacle. They are acknowledged to be finest after rain, and
+to-day they looked as fresh as if newly created. This valley is not
+surpassed by any in Switzerland. If I ever return here this shall
+be my head-quarters, for it is even more lovely, and more spacious
+and unconfined than Chamouni, and more free than Interlaken. The
+Spann-oerter are incredibly grand peaks, and the round Titlis
+heavily laden with snow, the foot of which lies in the meadows, and
+the effect of the Urner rocks in the distance, are also well worth
+seeing: it is now full moon, and the valley is clothed in beauty.
+
+This whole day I have done nothing but sketch, and play the organ:
+in the morning I performed my duties as organist--it was a grand
+affair. The organ stands close to the high altar, next to the
+stalls for the "patres;"--so I took my place in the midst of the
+monks, a very Saul among the prophets. An impatient Benedictine at
+my side played the double bass, and others the violins; one of
+their dignitaries was first violin. The _pater praeceptor_ stood in
+front of me, sang a solo, and conducted with a long stick, as thick
+as my arm. The _eleves_ in the monastery formed the choir, in their
+black cowls; an old decayed rustic played on an old decayed oboe,
+and at a little distance two more were puffing away composedly at
+two huge trumpets with green tassels; and yet with all this the
+affair was gratifying. It was impossible not to like the people,
+for they had plenty of zeal, and all worked away as well as they
+could. A mass, by Emmerich, was given, and every note of it
+betrayed its "powder and pigtail." I played thorough-bass
+faithfully from my ciphered part, adding wind instruments from time
+to time, when I was weary; made the responses, extemporized on the
+appointed theme, and at the end, by desire of the Prelate, played a
+march, in spite of my repugnance to do this on the organ, and was
+then honourably dismissed.
+
+This afternoon I played again alone to the monks, who gave me the
+finest subjects in the world--the "Credo" among others--a
+_fantasia_ on the latter was very successful; it is the only one
+that in my life I ever wished I could have written down, but now I
+can only remember its general purport, and must ask permission to
+send Fanny, in this letter, a passage that I do not wish to forget.
+By degrees various counter subjects were introduced in opposition
+to the _canto fermo_; first dotted notes, then triplets, at last
+rapid semiquavers, through which the "Credo" was to work its way;
+quite at the close, the semiquavers became very wild, and arpeggios
+followed on the whole organ in G minor. I proceeded to take up the
+theme on the pedal in long notes (during the continued arpeggios),
+so that it ended with A. On the A, I made a pedal point in
+arpeggios, and then it suddenly occurred to me to play the
+arpeggios with the left hand alone, so that the right hand could
+introduce the "Credo" again in the treble with A, thus:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+etc.
+
+This was followed by a stop on the last note, and a pause, and then
+it concluded. I wish you had heard it, for I am sure you would have
+been pleased. It was time for the monks to go to _complines_, and
+we took leave of each other cordially. They wished to give me
+letters of introduction for some other places in Unterwalden, but I
+declined this, as I intend to go to Lucerne early to-morrow, and
+after that I expect not to be more than five or six days longer in
+Switzerland.--Your
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+TO WILHELM TAUBERT.
+
+     Lucerne, August 27th, 1831.
+
+I wish to offer you my thanks, but I really do not know where to
+begin first; whether for the pleasure your songs caused me in
+Milan, or for your kind letter which I received yesterday; both
+however are closely connected, and so I think we have already made
+acquaintance. It is quite as fitting that we should be presented to
+each other through the medium of music-paper, as by a third person
+in society; indeed I think that in the former case you feel even
+more intimate and confidential. Moreover, persons who introduce any
+one often pronounce the name so indistinctly, that you seldom know
+who is standing before you; and they never say one word as to
+whether the man is gay and good-humoured, or melancholy and gloomy.
+So we are infinitely better off. Your songs have pronounced your
+name clearly and plainly; they also disclose what you think and
+what you are; that you love music, and wish to make progress; so
+thus perhaps I know you better than if we had frequently met.
+
+What a source of pleasure it is, and how cheering, to know there is
+another musician in the world who has the same purposes and
+aspirations, and who follows the same path as yourself; perhaps you
+cannot feel this so strongly as I do at this moment, who have just
+come from a country where music no longer exists among the people.
+I never before could have believed this of any nation, and least of
+all of Italy, with such rich and luxuriant nature, and such
+glorious, inspiriting antecedents. But alas! the occurrences I
+latterly witnessed there, fully proved to me that even more than
+harmony is dead in that land; it would indeed be marvellous if any
+music could exist where there is no solid principle. At last I was
+really bewildered, and thought that I must have become a
+hypochondriac, for all the buffoonery I saw was most distasteful to
+me, and yet a vast number of serious people and sedate citizens
+entered into it. When they played me anything of their own, and
+afterwards praised and extolled my pieces, I cannot tell you how
+repugnant it was to me; I felt disposed to become a hermit, with
+beard and cowl, and the whole world was at a discount with me. In
+Italy you first learn to value a true musician; that is, one whose
+thoughts are absorbed in _music_, and not in money, or decorations,
+or ladies, or fame; it is doubly delightful when you find that,
+without your being aware of it, your own ideas exist and are
+developed elsewhere; your songs therefore gave me especial
+pleasure, because I could gather from them that you must be a
+genuine musician, and so let us mutually stretch out our hands
+across the mountains.
+
+I beg that you will also look on me in the light of a friend, and
+not write so formally as to my "counsel" and "teaching." This
+portion of your letter makes me feel almost nervous, and I scarcely
+know what to say; the most agreeable part however is your promise
+to send me something to Munich, and to write to me again. I will
+then tell you frankly and freely my honest opinion, and you shall
+do the same with regard to my new compositions, and thus I think we
+shall give each other good counsel. I am very eager to see those
+recent works of yours that you have promised me, for I do not doubt
+that I shall receive much gratification from them, and many things
+which are only foreshadowed in the former songs, will probably in
+these become manifest and distinct. I shall therefore say nothing
+to-day of the impression your songs have made on me, because
+possibly any suggestion or question may be already answered in what
+you are about to send me. I earnestly entreat of you to write to me
+fully, and in detail, about yourself, in order that we may become
+better acquainted. I can then write to you what I purpose and what
+I think, and thus we shall continue in close connection.
+
+Let me know what you have recently composed and are now composing;
+your mode of life in Berlin, and your plans for the future; in
+short all that concerns your musical life, which will be of the
+greatest interest to me. Probably this will be obvious in the music
+you have so kindly promised me, but fortunately both may be
+combined. Have you hitherto composed nothing on a greater scale;
+some wild symphony, or opera, or something of the kind? I, for my
+part, feel at this moment the most invincible desire to write an
+opera, and yet I have scarcely leisure even to commence any work,
+however small. I do believe that if the libretto were to be given
+to me to-day, the opera would be written by to-morrow, so strong
+is my impulse towards it. Formerly the bare idea of a symphony was
+so exciting, that I could think of nothing else when one was in my
+head; the sound of instruments has such a solemn and glorious
+effect; and yet for some time past I have laid aside a symphony
+that I had commenced, in order to compose on a cantata of Goethe's
+merely because it included, besides the orchestra, voices and a
+chorus. I intend now, indeed, to complete the symphony, but there
+is nothing I so strongly covet as a regular opera.
+
+Where the libretto is to come from I know less than ever since last
+night, when for the first time for more than a year I saw a German
+aesthetic paper. The German Parnassus seems in as disorganized a
+condition as European politics. God help us! I was obliged to
+digest the supercilious Menzel, who presumed modestly to depreciate
+Goethe,--and the supercilious Grabbe, who modestly depreciates
+Shakspeare,--and the philosophers who proclaim Schiller to be
+rather trivial! Is this new, arrogant, overbearing spirit, this
+perverse cynicism, as odious to you as it is to me? and are you of
+the same opinion with myself, that the first and most indispensable
+quality of any artist is to feel respect for great men, and to bow
+down in spirit before them; to recognize their merits, and not to
+endeavour to extinguish their great flame, in order that his own
+feeble rushlight may burn a little brighter? If a person be
+incapable of feeling true greatness, I should like to know how he
+intends to make _me_ feel it? And as all these people, with their
+airs of contempt, only at last succeed in producing imitations of
+this or that particular form, without any presentiment of free,
+fresh, creative power, unfettered by individual opinion, or
+aesthetics or criticism, or the whole world besides; as this is the
+case, do they not deserve to be abused? and I do abuse them. Pray
+do not take this amiss; perhaps I have gone too far. But, it was
+long since I had read anything of the kind, and it vexes me to see
+that such folly still goes on, and that the philosopher who
+maintains that art is dead, still persists in declaring that it is
+so; as if art could in reality ever die.
+
+These are truly strange, wild, and troubled times; and let those
+who feel that art is no more, allow it for Heaven's sake to rest in
+peace; but however roughly the storm may rage without, it cannot so
+quickly succeed in sweeping away the dwelling; and he who works on
+quietly within, fixing his thoughts on his own capabilities and
+purposes, and not on those of others, will see the hurricane blow
+over, and afterwards find it difficult to realize that it ever was
+so violent as it appeared at the time. I have resolved to act thus
+so long as I can, and to pursue my path steadily, for at all events
+no one will deny that music still exists, and that is the chief
+thing.
+
+How cheering it is to meet with a person who has chosen the same
+object and the same means as yourself! and I would fain tell you
+how gratifying each new corroboration of this is to me, but I
+scarcely know how to do so. You must imagine it for yourself, and
+your own thoughts must supply any deficiencies; so farewell! Pray
+let me hear from you soon, and frequently. I beg to send my kindest
+wishes to our dear friend Berger;[22] I have been long intending to
+write to him, but have never yet accomplished it. I shall certainly
+however do so one of these days. Forgive this long, dry letter,
+next time it shall be more interesting, and now once more
+farewell.--Yours,
+
+        FELIX MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY.
+
+  [22] Ludwig Berger, Mendelssohn's instructor on the piano.
+
+
+     Righi Culm, August 30th, 1831.
+
+I am on the Righi! I need say no more, for you know this mountain.
+What can be more grand or superb? I left Lucerne early this
+morning. All the mountains were obscured, and the weather-wise
+prophesied bad weather. As however I have always found that the
+very opposite of what the wise people say invariably occurs! I
+tried to make out signs for myself, though hitherto, in spite of
+their aid, I have found my predictions quite as false as those of
+the others; but this morning I really thought the weather very
+tolerable; still, as I did not wish to begin my ascent while all
+was still shrouded in vapour (for the Faulhorn had taught me
+caution), I spent the whole morning in sauntering round the foot
+of the Righi, gazing eagerly upwards, to see if the mists were
+likely to clear off. At last, about twelve o'clock, at Kuessnacht, I
+stood on the cross path leading towards the Righi to the right, and
+Immensee to the left; and making up my mind not to see the Righi on
+this occasion, I took a tender farewell of it, and went through the
+Hohle Gasse to the Lake of Zug, along a charming path, past the
+water, to Arth; but could not resist frequently glancing at the
+summit of the Righi Culm, to see if it was becoming clearer; and
+while I was dining at Arth it did clear up. The wind was very
+favourable, the clouds lifted on every side; so I made up my mind
+to begin the ascent.
+
+There was no time to lose, however, if I wished to witness the
+sunset; so I went along at a steady mountain pace, and in the
+course of two hours and three-quarters I reached the Culm, and the
+well-known house. I then became aware that there were about forty
+men standing on the top, uplifting their hands in admiration, and
+making signs in a state of the greatest excitement. I ran up, and a
+new and wondrous sight it was. All the valleys were filled with
+fogs and clouds, and above them the lofty, snowy crests of the
+mountains and the glaciers and black rocks stood out bright and
+clear. The mists swept onwards, veiling a portion of the scenery;
+then came forth the Bernese Alps, the Jungfrau, the Moench, and the
+Finsteraarhorn; then Titlis, and the Unterwalden mountains. At last
+the whole range was distinctly visible; the clouds in the valleys
+now also began to roll away, disclosing the lakes of Lucerne and
+Zug, and towards the hour of sunset, only thin streaks of bright
+vapour still floated on the landscape. Coming from the Alp, and
+then looking towards the Righi, it was as if the overture and other
+portions were repeated at the end of an opera. All the spots whence
+you have seen such sublime scenery, the Wengern Alp, the Wetter
+Hoerner, the valley of Engelberg, here meet the eye once more in
+close vicinity, and you can take leave of them all. I had imagined
+that it was only at first, when still ignorant of the glaciers,
+that so great an impression was made, from the influence of
+surprise, but I think the effect at the last is even more striking
+than ever.
+
+
+     Schwytz, August 31st.
+
+Yesterday and to-day I gratefully recalled the happy auspices under
+which I first made acquaintance with this part of the world. The
+remembrance of your profound admiration of these wonders, elevating
+you above every-day life, has contributed not a little to awaken
+and to quicken my own perception of them. I often to-day recurred
+to your delight, and the deep impression it made on me at the time.
+So the Righi is evidently disposed to be gracious to our family,
+and in consequence of this kindly feeling towards us, conferred on
+me to-day a sunrise quite as brilliant and splendid as when you
+were here. The waning moon, the lively Alpine horn, the
+long-protracted rosy dawn which first stole over the cold.
+shadowy, snowy mountains, the white clouds on the Lake of Zug, the
+clear, sharp peaks bending towards each other in all directions,
+the light which gradually crept on the heights, the restless,
+shivering people, wrapped in coverlets, the monks from Maria zum
+Schnee, nothing was wanting.
+
+I could not tear myself away from this spectacle, and remained on
+the summit for six consecutive hours, gazing at the mountains. I
+thought that when next I saw them there might be many changes, so I
+wished to imprint the sight indelibly on my memory. People came and
+went, and talked of these anxious, troubled times, of politics, and
+of the grand mountain range before us.
+
+Thus the morning passed away, and at last, at half-past ten
+o'clock, I was obliged to go; indeed it was high time, as I wished
+to get to Einsiedel the same day, by Hacken. On my way, however, in
+the steep path leading to Lowerz, my trusty old umbrella, which
+also served me as a mountain staff, broke to pieces; this detained
+me, so that I preferred remaining here, and to-morrow I hope to be
+quite fresh for a start.
+
+
+     Wallenstadt, September 2nd.
+
+(Year of rains and storms.) Motto of the copper-smith--"If you
+can't sing a new song, then begin the old one afresh." Here am I
+again in the midst of fogs and clouds, unable to go either
+backwards or forwards, and if fortune specially favours us, we may
+have a slight inundation into the bargain. When I crossed the lake,
+the boatmen prophesied very fine weather, consequently the rain
+began half an hour later, and is not likely soon to cease, for
+there are piles of heavy, gloomy clouds, such as you can only see
+on the mountains. If it were twice as bad three days hence, I
+should not care, but it would be grievous indeed if Switzerland
+were to take leave of me with so ill-omened an aspect.
+
+I have this moment returned from the church, where I have been
+playing the organ for three hours, far into the twilight: an old
+man, a cripple, blew the bellows for me, and except him, there was
+not a single soul in the church. The only stops I found available,
+were a very weak croaking flute, and a quavering deep pedal
+diapason, of sixteen feet. I contrived to extemporize with these
+materials, and at last subsided into a choral melody in E minor,
+without being able to remember what it was. I could not get rid of
+it, when all at once it occurred to me that it was a Litany, the
+music of which was in my head because the words were in my heart,
+so then I had a wide field, and plenty of food for extemporizing.
+At length the consumptive deep bass resounded quite alone in E
+minor, thus:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+etc. and then came in its turn the flute, high up in the treble,
+with the choral in the same key, and so the sounds of the organ
+gradually died away, and I was obliged to stop, from the church
+being so dark.
+
+In the meantime there was a terrible hurricane of wind and rain
+outside, and not a trace of the grand lofty rocky precipices; the
+most dreary weather! and then I read some dreary newspapers, and
+everything wore a grey hue. Tell me, Fanny, do you know Auber's
+"Parisienne?" I consider it the very worst thing he has ever
+produced, perhaps because the subject was really sublime, and for
+other reasons also. Auber alone could have been guilty of composing
+for a great nation, in the most violent state of excitement, a
+cold, insignificant piece, quite commonplace, and trivial. The
+_refrain_ revolts me every time I think of it,--it is as if
+children were playing with a drum, and singing to it--only more
+objectionable. The words also are worthless; little antitheses and
+points are quite out of place here. Then the emptiness of the
+music! a march for acrobats, and at the end a mere miserable
+imitation of the "Marseillaise." Such music is not what this epoch
+demands. Woe to us _if_ it be indeed what suits this epoch,--if a
+mere copy of the Marseillaise Hymn be all that is required. What in
+the latter is full of fire, and spirit, and impetus, is in the
+former ostentatious, cold, calculated, and artificial. The
+"Marseillaise" is as superior to the "Parisienne" as everything
+produced by genuine enthusiasm must be, to what is made for a
+purpose, even if it be with a view to promote enthusiasm; it will
+never reach the heart, because it does not come from the heart.
+
+By the way, I never saw such a striking identity between a poet and
+a musician, as between Auber and Clauren. Auber faithfully renders
+note for note, what the other writes word for word--braggadocio,
+degrading sensuality, pedantry, epicurism, and parodies of foreign
+nationality. But why should Clauren be effaced from the literature
+of the day? Is it prejudicial to any one that he should remain
+where he is? and do you read what is really good with less
+interest? Any young poet must indeed be degenerate, if he does not
+cordially hate and despise such trash; but it is only too true that
+the people like him; so it is all very well, it is only the
+people's own loss. Write me your opinion of the "Parisienne." I
+sometimes sing it to myself for fun, as I go along; it makes a man
+walk like a chorister in a procession.
+
+
+     Sargans, September 3rd, noon.
+
+Wretched weather! it has rained all night, and all the morning too,
+and the cold as severe as in winter; deep snow is lying on the
+adjacent hills. There has been again a tremendous inundation in
+Appenzell, which has done the greatest damage, and destroyed all
+the roads. At the Lake of Zurich, there are numbers of pilgrimages,
+and processions, on account of the weather. I was obliged to drive
+here this morning, as all the footpaths were covered with mud and
+water. I shall remain till to-morrow, when the diligence passes
+through at an early hour, and I intend to go with it up the valley
+of the Rhine, as far as Altstetten.
+
+To-morrow I shall probably have reached, or crossed, the boundaries
+of Switzerland, for my pleasure excursion is now over. Autumn is
+arrived, and I have no right to complain if I pass a few tiresome
+days, after so many enchanting ones, that I can never forget. On
+the contrary, I think I almost like it; there is always enough to
+be done, even in Sargans, (a wretched hole,) and in a regular
+deluge, like that of to-day--for happily an organ is always to be
+found in this country; they are certainly small, and the lower
+octave, both in the key-board and the pedal, imperfect, or as I
+call it, crippled; but still they are organs, and that is enough for
+me.
+
+I have been playing all this morning, and really begun to practise,
+for it is a shame that I cannot play Sebastian Bach's principal
+works. I intend, if I can manage it, to practise for an hour every
+day in Munich, as after a couple of hours' work to-day, I certainly
+made considerable progress with my feet (_nota bene_, sitting).
+Ritz once told me that Schneider, in Dresden, played him the D
+major fugue, in the "wohl-temperirten Clavier," on the organ,
+supplying the bass with the pedal.
+
+  [Music]
+
+This had hitherto appeared to me so fabulous, that I could never
+properly comprehend it. It recurred to me this morning when I was
+playing the organ, so I instantly attempted it, and I at least see
+that it is far from being impossible, and that I shall accomplish
+it. The subject went pretty well, so I practised passages from the
+D major fugue, for the organ, from the F major toccata, and the G
+minor fugue, all of which I knew by heart. If I find a tolerable
+organ in Munich, and not an imperfect one, I will certainly conquer
+these, and feel childish delight at the idea of playing such pieces
+on the organ. The F major toccata, with the modulation at the
+close, sounded as if the church were about to tumble down; what a
+giant that Cantor was!
+
+Besides organ-playing, I have a good many sketches to finish, in my
+new drawing book, (one was entirely filled in Engelberg) and then I
+must eat like six hundred wrestlers. After dinner I practise the
+organ again, and thus a rainy day passes at Sargans. It seems
+prettily situated, with a castle on the hill, but I cannot go a
+step beyond the door.
+
+_Evening._--Yesterday at this time, I still projected a pedestrian
+tour, and wished at all events to go through the whole of the
+Appenzell. It was a strange feeling when I learned that all
+mountain excursions were probably at an end for this year: the
+heights are covered with deep snow, for just as it has rained here,
+in the valley, for thirty-six hours, it has snowed incessantly on
+the hills above. The flocks have been obliged to come down into the
+valley from the Alps, where they ought to have remained for a
+whole month yet, so that all idea of any footpaths is out of the
+question. Yesterday I was still on the hills, but now they will be
+inaccessible for six months to come. My pedestrian excursions are
+over; wondrously beautiful they were, and I shall never forget
+them.
+
+I mean to work hard at music, and high time that I should. I played
+on the organ till twilight, and was trampling energetically on the
+pedal, when we suddenly became aware that the deep C sharp in the
+great diapason, went buzzing softly on without ceasing; all our
+pressing, and shaking, and thumping on the keys, was of no avail,
+so we were obliged to climb into the organ among the big pipes. The
+C sharp continued gently humming,--the fault lay in the bellows;
+the organist was in the greatest perplexity, because to-morrow is a
+fete day; at last I stuffed my handkerchief into the pipe, and
+there was no more buzzing, but no more C sharp either. I played
+this passage incessantly, all the same:--
+
+  [Music]
+
+and it did very well.
+
+I am now going to finish my sketch of the Glacier of the Rhone, and
+then the day will be at my own disposal; which means that I am
+going to sleep. I will write to you on the next page to-morrow
+evening wherever I am, for to-day I have no idea where I shall be.
+Good night! Eight is striking in F minor, and it is raining and
+blowing in F sharp minor or G sharp minor; in short, in every
+possible sharp key.
+
+  [Music]
+
+
+     St. Gall, the 4th.
+
+Motto--"Vous pensez que je suis l'Abbe de St. Gall" (Citoyen).[23]
+I do feel so comfortable here, after braving such storms and
+tempests. During the four hours when I was crossing the mountains
+from Altstetten to this place, I was engaged in a regular battle
+with the elements; when I tell you that I never experienced
+anything like the storm, nor even imagined anything approaching to
+it, this does not say much; but the oldest people in the Canton
+declare the same: a large manufactory has been demolished, and
+several persons killed. To-morrow, in my last letter from
+Switzerland, I will tell you of my being again obliged to travel on
+foot, and arriving here, after crossing by Appenzell, which looked
+like Egypt after the seven plagues. The bell is now ringing for
+dinner, and I mean to feast like an abbot.
+
+  [23] Mendelssohn jokingly alludes to a poem of _Buerger_,--Der Abt
+  von St. Gallen.
+
+
+     Lindau, September 5th.
+
+Opposite me lies Switzerland, with her dark blue mountains,
+pedestrian journeys, storms, and glorious heights and valleys. Here
+ends the greatest part of my journey, and my journal also.
+
+At noon to-day, I crossed the wild grey Rhine in a ferry-boat,
+above Rheineck, and now here I am, already in Bavaria. I have of
+course entirely given up my projected excursion on foot, through
+the Bavarian mountains; for it would be folly to attempt anything
+of the kind this year. For the last four days it has rained more or
+less with incessant vehemence; it seemed as if Providence were
+wroth. I passed to-day through extensive orchards, which were not
+under water, but fairly submerged by mud and clay; everything looks
+deplorable and depressing; you must therefore forgive the doleful
+style of this last sheet. I never in any landscape saw a more
+dreary sight than the sward of the green hills, covered with deep
+snow; while below, the fruit-trees, with their ripe fruit, were
+standing reflected in the water. The scanty covering of muddy snow,
+which lay on the fir-woods and meadows, looked the personification
+of all that was dismal. A Sargans burgher told me that in 1811 this
+little town had been entirely burnt down, and recently with
+difficulty rebuilt; that they depend chiefly on the produce of
+their vineyards, which have been this year destroyed by
+hail-storms, and the Alps also were now no longer available; this
+gives rise to serious reflections, and to anxious thoughts with
+regard to this year.
+
+It is singular enough that if I am obliged to go on foot in such
+weather, and fairly exposed to it, I am not in the least annoyed;
+on the contrary, I rather rejoice in setting it at defiance. When I
+arrived by the diligence yesterday at Altstetten, in freezing
+cold, like a day in December, I found that there was no carriage
+road to Tourgen, to which place I had unluckily sent on my cloak
+and knapsack on the last fine day. I was obliged to have them the
+same evening, for the cold was intense, so I did not hesitate long,
+but set off once more for the last time to cross the mountains, and
+arrived in the Canton of Appenzell.
+
+The state of the woods, and hills, and meadows, and little bridges,
+baffles all description; being Sunday, and divine service going on,
+I failed in procuring a guide; not a living soul met me the whole
+way, for all the people had crept into their houses, so I toiled on
+quite alone towards Tourgen. To pass through a wood in such
+weather, and along such paths, inspires a wonderful sense of
+independence. Moreover I am now quite perfect in the Swiss _jodeln_
+and crowing, so I shouted lustily, and _jodelled_ several airs at
+the pitch of my voice, and arrived in Tourgen in capital spirits.
+The people in the inn there were rude and saucy, so I politely
+said, "You be hanged! I shall go on;" and taking out my map, I
+found that St. Gall was the nearest convenient place, and in fact
+the only practicable route. I could not succeed in persuading any
+one to go with me in such horrible weather, so I resolved to carry
+my own things, abusing all Swiss cordiality.
+
+Shortly afterwards, however, came the reverse of the medal, which
+not unfrequently occurs. I went to the peasant who had brought my
+luggage here, and found him in his pretty newly-built wooden house,
+and I had thus an opportunity of seeing a veritable and genuine
+Swiss interior, just as we imagine it to be. He and his whole
+family were sitting round a table, the house clean and warm, and
+the stove burning. The old man rose and gave me his hand, and
+insisted on my taking a seat; he then sent through the whole place
+to try to get me a carriage, or a man to carry my things, but as no
+one would either drive or walk, he at last sent his own son with
+me. He only asked two _Batzen_ for carrying my knapsack for two
+hours. A very pretty fair daughter was sitting at the table sewing,
+the mother reading a thick book, and the old man himself studying
+the newspapers; it was a charming picture.
+
+When at last I set off, the weather seemed to say, "If you defy me
+I can defy you also," for the storm broke loose with redoubled
+violence, and an invisible hand appeared to seize my umbrella at
+intervals, shaking it and crumpling it together, and my fingers
+were so benumbed that I could scarcely hold it fast; the paths were
+so desperately slippery that my guide fell sprawling full length
+before me in the mud; but what cared we? We _jodelled_ and reviled
+the weather to our hearts' content, and at last we passed the
+Nunnery, which we greeted by a serenade, and soon after reached St.
+Gall.
+
+Our journey was happily over, and yesterday I drove here, and at
+night met with a wonderful organ, on which I could play "Schmuecke
+dich, O liebe Seele!" to my heart's content.
+
+To-day I proceed to Memmingen, to-morrow to Augsburg; the day
+after, God willing, to Munich; and thus, I may now say, I _have
+been_ in Switzerland. Perhaps I have rather bored you by all the
+trivial occurrences I have detailed. These are gloomy times, but we
+need not be so; and when I sent you my journal, it was chiefly to
+show you that I thought of you whenever I was pleased and happy,
+and was with you in spirit. The shabby, dripping pedestrian bids
+you farewell, and a town gentleman, with visiting-cards, fine
+linen, and a black coat, will write to you next time. Farewell.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+BURGHER LETTER FROM MUNICH.
+
+     Munich, October 6th, 1831.
+
+It is a delightful feeling to wake in the morning and to know that
+you are to score a grand allegro with all sorts of instruments, and
+various oboes and trumpets, while bright weather holds out the hope
+of a cheering long walk in the afternoon.
+
+I have enjoyed these pleasures for a whole week past, so the
+favourable impression that Munich made on me during my first visit,
+is now very much enhanced. I scarcely know any place where I feel
+so comfortable and domesticated as here. It is indeed very
+delightful to be surrounded by cheerful faces, and your own to be
+so also, and to know every man you meet in the streets.
+
+I am now preparing for my concert, so my hands are pretty full; my
+acquaintances every instant interrupting me in my work, the lovely
+weather tempting me to go out, and the copyists, in turn, forcing
+me to stay at home; all this constitutes the most agreeable and
+exciting life. I was obliged to put off my concert, on account of
+the October festival, which begins next Sunday, and lasts all the
+week. Every evening there is to be a performance at the theatre,
+and a ball, so all idea of an orchestra or a concert-room is out of
+the question. On Monday evening, however, the 17th, at half-past
+six, think of me,--for then we dash off with thirty violins, and
+two sets of wind instruments.
+
+The first part begins with the symphony in C minor, the second with
+the "Midsummer Night's Dream." The first part closes with my new
+concerto in G minor, and at the end of the second I have
+unwillingly agreed to extemporize. Believe me, I do so very
+reluctantly, but the people insist upon it. Baermann has decided on
+playing again; Breiting, Mlle. Vial, Loehle, Bayer, and Pellegrini
+are the singers who are to execute a piece together. The locality
+is the large Odeon Hall, and the performance for the benefit of the
+poor in Munich. The magistrates invite the orchestra, and the
+burgomasters the singers. Every morning I am engaged in writing,
+correcting, and scoring till one o'clock, when I go to Scheidel's
+coffee-house in the Kaufinger Gasse, where I know each face by
+heart, and find the same people every day in the same position; two
+playing chess, three looking on, five reading the newspapers, six
+eating their dinner, and I am the seventh. After dinner Baermann
+usually comes to fetch me, and we make arrangements about the
+concert, or after a walk we have cheese and beer, and then I return
+home and set to work again.
+
+This time I have declined all invitations for the evening; but
+there are so many agreeable houses, to which I can go uninvited,
+that a light is seldom to be seen in my room on the parterre till
+after eight o'clock. You must know that I lodge on a level with the
+street, in a room which was once a shop, so that if I unbar the
+shutters of my glass door, one step brings me into the middle of
+the street, and any one passing along, can put his head in at the
+window, and say good morning. Next to me a Greek lodges, who is
+learning the piano, and he is truly odious; but to make up for
+that, my landlord's daughter, who wears a round silver cap and is
+very slender, looks all the prettier.
+
+I have music in my rooms at four o'clock in the afternoon, three
+times every week: Baermann, Breiting, Staudacher, young Poissl, and
+others, come regularly, and we have a musical picnic. In this way I
+become acquainted with operas, which, most unpardonably, I have not
+yet either heard or seen; such as Lodoiska, Faniska, Medea; also
+the Preciosa, Abu Hassan, etc. The theatre lends us the scores.
+
+Last Wednesday we had capital fun; several wagers had been lost,
+and it was agreed that we should enjoy the fruits of them all
+together; and after various suggestions, we at last decided on
+having a musical soiree in my room, and to invite all the
+dignitaries; so a list was made out of about thirty persons;
+several also came uninvited, who were presented to us by mutual
+friends. There was a sad want of space; at first we proposed
+placing several people on my bed, but it was surprising the number
+of patient sheep who managed to cram into my small room. The whole
+affair was most lively and successful. E---- was present, as dulcet
+as ever, languishing in all the glory of poetical enthusiasm, and
+grey stockings; in short, tiresome beyond all description.
+
+First I played my old quartett in B minor; then Breiting sang
+"Adelaide;" Herr S---- played variations on the violin (doing
+himself no credit); Baermann performed Beethoven's first quartett
+(in F major), which he had arranged for two clarionets, corno di
+bassetto, and bassoon; an air from "Euryanthe" followed, which was
+furiously encored, and as a finale I extemporized--tried hard to
+get off--but they made such a tremendous uproar that _nolens_ I
+was forced to comply, though I had nothing in my head, but
+wine-glasses, benches, cold roast meat, and ham.
+
+The Cornelius ladies were next-door with my landlord and his
+family, to listen to me; the Schauroths were making a visit on the
+first story for the same purpose, and even in the hall, and in the
+street, people were standing; in addition to all this, the heat of
+the crowded room, the deafening noise, the gay audience; and when
+at last the time for eating and drinking arrived, the uproar was at
+its height; we fraternized glass in hand, and gave toasts; the
+more formal guests with their grave faces, sat in the midst of the
+jovial throng, apparently quite contented, and we did not separate
+till half-past one in the morning.
+
+The following evening formed a striking contrast. I was summoned to
+play before the Queen, and the Court; there all was proper and
+polite, and polished, and every time you moved your elbow, you
+pushed against an Excellency; the most smooth and complimentary
+phrases circulated in the room, and I, the _roturier_, stood in the
+midst of them, with my citizen heart, and my aching head! I managed
+however to get on pretty well, and at the end, I was commanded to
+extemporize on Royal themes, which I did, and was mightily
+commended; what pleased me most was, that when I had finished my
+extempore playing, the Queen said to me, that it was strange the
+power I possessed of carrying away my audience, for that during
+such music, no one could think of anything else; on which I begged
+to apologize for carrying away Her Majesty, etc.
+
+This, you see, is the mode in which I pass my time in Munich. I
+forgot, however, to say, that every day at twelve o'clock, I give
+little Mademoiselle L---- an hour's instruction in double
+counterpoint, and four-part composition, etc., which makes me
+realize more than ever the stupidity and confusion of most masters
+and books on this subject; for nothing can be more clear than the
+whole thing when properly explained.
+
+She is one of the sweetest creatures I ever saw, Imagine a small,
+delicate-looking, pale girl, with noble but not pretty features, so
+singular and interesting, that it is difficult to turn your eyes
+from her; while all her gestures and every word are full of genius.
+She has the gift of composing songs, and singing them in a way I
+never heard before, causing me the most unalloyed musical delight I
+ever experienced. When she is seated at the piano, and begins one
+of the songs, the sounds are quite unique; the music floats
+strangely to and fro, and every note expresses the most profound
+and refined feeling. When she sings the first note in her tender
+tones, every one present subsides into a quiet and thoughtful mood,
+and each, in his own way, is deeply affected.
+
+If you could but hear her voice! so innocent, so unconsciously
+lovely, emanating from her inmost soul, and yet so tranquil! Last
+year the genius was all there; she had written no song that did not
+contain some bright flash of talent, and then M----and I sounded
+forth her praises to the musical world; still no one seemed to
+place much faith in us; but since that time, she has made the most
+remarkable progress. Those who are not affected by her present
+singing, can have no feeling at all; but unluckily it is now the
+fashion to beg the young girl to sing her songs, and then the
+lights are removed from the piano, in order that the society may
+enjoy the plaintive strains.
+
+This forms an unpleasant contrast, and repeatedly when I was to
+have played something after her, I was quite unable, and declined
+doing so. It is probable that she may one day be spoiled by all
+this praise, because she has no one to comprehend or to guide her;
+and, strangely enough, she is as yet entirely devoid of all musical
+cultivation; she knows very little, and can scarcely distinguish
+good music from bad; in fact, except her own pieces, she thinks all
+else that she hears wonderfully fine. If she were at length to
+become satisfied as it were with herself, it would be all over with
+her. I have, for my part, done what I could, and implored her
+parents and herself in the most urgent manner, to avoid society,
+and not to allow such divine genius to be wasted. Heaven grant that
+I may be successful! I may, perhaps, dear sisters, soon send you
+some of her songs that she has copied out for me, in token of her
+gratitude for my teaching her what she already knows from nature;
+and because I have really led her to good and solid music.
+
+I also play on the organ every day for an hour, but unfortunately I
+cannot practise properly, as the pedal is short of five upper
+notes, so that I cannot play any of Sebastian Bach's passages on
+it; but the stops are wonderfully beautiful, by the aid of which
+you can vary chorals; so I dwell with delight on the celestial,
+liquid tone of the instrument. Moreover, Fanny, I have here
+discovered the particular stops which ought to be used in Sebastian
+Bach's "Schmuecke dich, O liebe Seele." They seem actually made for
+this melody, and sound so touching, that a tremor invariably
+seizes me, when I begin to play it. For the flowing parts I have a
+flute stop of eight feet, and also a very soft one of four feet,
+which continually floats above the Choral. You have heard this
+effect in Berlin; but there is a keyboard for the Choral with
+nothing but reed stops, so I employ a mellow oboe and a soft
+clarion (four feet) and a viola; these give the Choral in subdued
+and touching tones, like distant human voices, singing from the
+depths of the heart.
+
+Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, by the time you will have received
+this letter, I shall be on the "Theresien Wiese," with eighty
+thousand other people; so think of me there, and farewell.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Munich, October 18th, 1831.
+
+     Dear Father,
+
+Pray forgive me for not having written to you for so long. The last
+few days previous to my concert, were passed in such bustle and
+confusion, that I really had not a moment's leisure; besides I
+preferred writing to you after my concert was over, that I might
+tell you all about it, hence the long interval between this and my
+former letter.
+
+I write to you in particular to-day, because it is so long since I
+have had a single line from you; I do beg you will soon write to
+me, if only to say that you are well, and to send me your kind
+wishes. You know this always makes me glad and happy; therefore
+excuse my addressing this letter, with all the little details of my
+concert, to you. My mother, and sisters, were desirous to hear
+them, but I was anxious to say how eagerly I hope for a few lines
+from you. Pray let me have them. It is a long time since you wrote
+to me!
+
+My concert took place yesterday, and was much more brilliant and
+successful than I expected. The affair went off well, and with much
+spirit. The orchestra played admirably, and the receipts for the
+benefit of the poor will be large. A few days after my former
+letter, I attended a general rehearsal, where the whole band were
+assembled, and in addition to the official invitation the orchestra
+had received, I was obliged to invite them verbally in a polite
+speech, in the theatre. This, to me, was the most trying part of
+the whole concert; still I did not object to it, for I really
+wished to know the sensations of a man who gives a concert, and
+this ceremony forms part of it. I stationed myself therefore at the
+prompter's box, and addressed the performers very courteously, who
+took off their hats, and when my speech was finished, there was a
+general murmur of assent. On the following day there were upwards
+of seventy signatures to the circular. Immediately afterwards, I
+had the pleasure of finding that the chorus singers had sent one of
+their leaders to me, to ask if I had not composed some chorus that
+I should like to be sung, in which case, they would all be happy to
+sing it _gratis_. Although I had decided not to give more than
+three pieces of my composition, still the offer was very
+gratifying, and the hearty sympathy especially delighted me, for
+even the regimental musicians whom I had to engage for the English
+horns and trumpets, positively refused to accept a single kreuzer,
+and we had above eighty performers in the orchestra.
+
+Then came all the tiresome minor arrangements about advertisements,
+tickets, preliminary rehearsals, etc., and in addition to all this,
+it was the week of the October festival. In Munich the days and
+hours always glide past so very rapidly, that when they are gone,
+it really seems as if they had never been, and this is more
+peculiarly the case during this October festival. Every afternoon
+about three o'clock you repair to the spacious, green "Theresien
+Wiese," which is swarming with people, and it is impossible to get
+away till the evening, for every one finds acquaintances without
+end, and something to talk about, or to look at; a fat ox,
+target-shooting, a race, or pretty girls in gold and silver caps,
+etc. Any affair you are engaged in, can be concluded there, for the
+whole town is congregated on the meadow, and not till the mists
+begin to rise, does the crowd disperse, and return towards the
+"Frauen Thuerme." The people are in constant motion, running about
+in all directions, while the snowy mountains in the distance look
+clear and tranquil, each day giving promise of a bright morrow, and
+fulfilling that promise; and, what after all is the chief thing,
+none but careless happy faces to be seen, with the occasional
+exception perhaps of a few Deputies, drinking coffee in the open
+air, and discussing the lamentable condition of the people,--while
+the people themselves are standing round them looking as happy as
+possible. On the first day the King distributes the prizes himself,
+taking off his hat to each winner of a prize, and giving his hand
+to the peasants, or laying hold of their arms and shaking them; now
+I think this all very proper, as here externally at least society
+appears more blended, but whether it sinks deep into the heart, we
+can discuss together at some future time. I adhere to my first
+opinion; at all events it is so far well, that the absurd
+restraints of etiquette should not be too strictly observed
+outwardly, and so it is always something gained.
+
+My first rehearsal took place early on Saturday. We had about
+thirty-two violins, six double-basses, and double sets of wind
+instruments, etc.: but, Heaven knows why, the rehearsal went badly;
+I was forced to rehearse my symphony in C minor alone for two
+hours. My concerto did not go at all satisfactorily. We had only
+time to play over the "Midsummer Night's Dream" once, and even then
+so hurriedly, that I wished to withdraw it from the bills; but
+Baermann would not hear of this, and assured me that they would do
+it better next time. I therefore was forced to wait in considerable
+anxiety for the next rehearsal: in the meantime there was happily a
+great ball on Sunday evening, which was very enjoyable, so I
+recovered my spirits, and arrived next morning at the general
+rehearsal in high good humour, and with perfect confidence. I
+started off at once with the overture; we played it over again and
+again, till at last it went well, and we did the same with my
+concerto, so that the whole rehearsal was quite satisfactory.
+
+On my way to the concert at night, when I heard the rattling of the
+carriages, I began to feel real pleasure in the whole affair. The
+Court arrived at half-past six. I took up my little English
+_baton_, and conducted my symphony. The orchestra played
+magnificently, and with a degree of fire and enthusiasm that I
+never heard equalled under my direction; they all crashed in at the
+_forte_, and the _scherzo_ was most light and delicate; it seemed
+to please the audience exceedingly, and the King was always the
+first to applaud. Then my fat friend, Breiting, sang the air in A
+flat major from "Euryanthe," and the public shouted "Da capo!" and
+were in good humour, and showed good taste. Breiting was delighted,
+so he sang with spirit, and quite beautifully. Then came my
+concerto; I was received with long and loud applause; the orchestra
+accompanied me well, and the composition had also its merits, and
+gave much satisfaction to the audience; they wished to recall me,
+in order to give me another round of applause, according to the
+prevailing fashion here, but I was modest, and would not appear.
+Between the parts the King got hold of me, and praised me highly,
+asking all sorts of questions, and whether I was related to the
+Bartholdy in Rome, to whose house he was in the habit of going,
+because it was the cradle of modern art, etc.[24]
+
+  [24] _Vide_ the letter from Rome of the 1st of February, 1831.
+
+The second part commenced with the "Midsummer Night's Dream," which
+went admirably, and excited a great sensation; then Baermann played,
+and after that we had the finale in A major from Lodoiska. I
+however did not hear either of these, as I was resting and cooling
+in the anteroom. When I appeared to extemporize, I was again
+enthusiastically received. The King had given me the theme of "Non
+piu andrai," on which I was to _improviser_. My former opinion is
+now fully confirmed, that it is an absurdity to extemporize in
+public. I have seldom felt so like a fool as when I took my place
+at the piano, to present to the public the fruits of my
+inspiration; but the audience were quite contented, and there was
+no end of their applause. They called me forward again, and the
+Queen said all that was courteous; but I was annoyed, for I was far
+from being satisfied with myself, and I am resolved never again to
+extemporize in public,--it is both an abuse and an absurdity.
+
+So this is an account of my concert of the 17th, which is now among
+the things of the past. There were eleven hundred people present,
+so the poor may well be satisfied: but enough of all this.
+Farewell! May every happiness attend you all!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, December 19th, 1831.
+
+     Dear Father,
+
+Receive my hearty thanks for your letter of the 7th. Though I do
+not quite apprehend your meaning on some points, and also may
+differ from you, still I have no doubt that this will come all
+right when we talk things over together, especially if you permit
+me, as you have always hitherto done, to express my opinion in a
+straight-forward manner. I allude chiefly to your suggestion, that
+I should procure a libretto for an opera from some French poet, and
+then have it translated, and compose the music for the Munich
+stage.[25]
+
+  [25] Felix Mendelssohn, during his stay in Munich, received a
+  commission from the director of the theatre, to write an opera
+  for Munich.
+
+Above all, I must tell you how sincerely I regret that you have
+only now made known to me your views on this subject. I went to
+Duesseldorf, as you know, expressly to consult with Immermann on the
+point. I found him ready, and willing; he accepted the proposal,
+promising to send me the poem by the end of May at the latest, so I
+do not myself see how it is possible for me now to draw back;
+indeed I do not wish it, as I place entire confidence in him. I do
+not in the least understand what you allude to in your last letter,
+about Immermann, and his incapacity to write an opera. Although I
+by no means agree with you in this opinion, still it would have
+been my duty to have settled nothing without your express
+sanction, and I could have arranged the affair by letter from here,
+I believed however that I was acting quite to your satisfaction
+when I made him my offer. In addition to this, some new poems that
+he read to me, convinced me more than ever that he was a true poet,
+and supposing that I had an equal choice in merit, I would always
+decide rather in favour of a German than a French libretto; and
+lastly, he has fixed on a subject which has been long in my
+thoughts, and which, if I am not mistaken, my mother wished to see
+made into an opera,--I mean Shakspeare's "Tempest". I was
+therefore particularly pleased with this, so I shall doubly regret
+if you do not approve of what I have done. In any event, however, I
+entreat that you will neither be displeased with me, nor
+distrustful with regard to the work, nor cease to take any interest
+in it.
+
+From what I know of Immermann, I feel assured I may expect a
+first-rate libretto. What I alluded to about his solitary life,
+merely referred to his inward feelings and perceptions; for in
+other respects he is well acquainted with what is passing in the
+world. He knows what people like, and what to give them; but above
+all he is a genuine artist, which is the chief thing; but I am sure
+I need not say that I will not compose music for any words I do not
+consider really good, or which do not inspire me, and for this
+purpose it is essential that I should have your approval. I intend
+to reflect deeply on the poem before I begin the music. The
+dramatic interest or (in the best sense) the theatrical portion, I
+shall of course immediately communicate to you, and in short look
+on the affair in the serious light it deserves. The first step
+however is taken, and I cannot tell you how deeply I should regret
+your not being pleased.
+
+There is however one thing which consoles me, and it is that if I
+were to rely on my own judgment, I would again act precisely as I
+have now done, though I have had an opportunity of becoming
+acquainted with a great deal of French poetry, and seeing it in the
+most favourable light. Pray pardon me for saying exactly what I
+think. To compose for the translation of a French libretto, seems
+to me for various reasons impracticable, and I have an idea that
+you are in favour of it more on account of the _success_ which it
+is likely to enjoy than for its own _intrinsic merit_. Moreover I
+well remember how much you disliked the subject of the "Muette de
+Portici," a _Muette_ too who had gone astray, and of "Wilhelm
+Tell," which the author seems almost purposely to have rendered
+tedious.
+
+The success however these enjoy all over Germany does not assuredly
+depend on the work itself being either good or dramatic, for "Tell"
+is neither, but on their coming from Paris, and having pleased
+there. Certainly there is _one_ sure road to fame in Germany,--that
+by Paris and London; still it is not the only one; this is proved
+not only by all Weber's works, but also by those of Spohr, whose
+"Faust" is here considered classical music, and which is to be
+given at the great Opera-house in London next season. Besides, I
+could not possibly take that course, as my great opera has been
+bespoken for Munich, and I have accepted the commission. I am
+resolved therefore to make the attempt in Germany, and to remain
+and work there so long as I can continue to do so, and yet maintain
+myself, for this I consider my first duty. If I find that I cannot
+do this, then I must leave it for London or Paris, where it is
+easier to get on. I see indeed where I should be better remunerated
+and more honoured, and live more gaily, and at my ease, than in
+Germany, where a man must press forward, and toil, and take no
+rest,--still, if I can succeed there, I prefer the latter.
+
+None of the new libretti here, would in my opinion be attended with
+any success whatever, if brought out for the first time on a German
+stage. One of the distinctive characteristics of them all, is
+precisely of a nature that I should resolutely oppose, although the
+taste of the present day may demand it, and I quite admit that it
+may in general be more prudent to go with the current than to
+struggle against it. I allude to that of immorality. In "Robert le
+Diable" the nuns come one after the other to allure the hero of the
+piece, till at last the abbess succeeds in doing so: the same hero
+is conveyed by magic into the apartment of her whom he loves, and
+casts her from him in an attitude which the public here applauds,
+and probably all Germany will do the same; she then implores his
+mercy in a grand aria. In another opera a young girl divests
+herself of her garments, and sings a song to the effect that next
+day at this time she will be married; all this produces effect, but
+I have no music for such things. I consider it ignoble, so if the
+present epoch exacts this style, and considers it indispensable,
+then I will write oratorios.
+
+Another strong reason why it would prove impracticable is that no
+French poet would undertake to furnish me with a poem. Indeed, it
+is no easy matter to procure one from them for this stage, for all
+the best authors are overwhelmed with commissions. At the same time
+I think it quite possible that I might succeed in getting one;
+still it never would occur to any of them to write a libretto for a
+_German_ theatre. In the first place it would be much more feasible
+to give the opera here, and infinitely more rational too; in the
+second place, they would decline writing for any other stage than
+the French; in fact they could not realize any other. Above all it
+would be impossible to procure for them a sum equivalent to what
+they receive here from the theatres, and what they draw as their
+share from the _part d'auteur_.
+
+I know you will forgive me for having told you my opinion without
+reserve. You always allowed me to do so in conversation, so I hope
+you will not put a wrong construction on what I have written, and I
+beg you will amend my views by communicating your own.--Your
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, December 20th, 1831.
+
+     Dear Rebecca,
+
+I went yesterday to the Chambre des Deputes, and I must now tell
+you about it; but what do you care about the Chambre des Deputes?
+It is a political song, and you would rather hear whether I have
+composed any love songs, or bridal songs, or wedding songs; but it
+is a sad pity, that no songs but political ones are composed here.
+I believe I never in my life passed three such unmusical weeks as
+these. I feel as if I never could again think of composing; this
+all arises from the "juste milieu;" but it is still worse to be
+with musicians, for they do not _wrangle_ about politics, but
+_lament_ over them. One has lost his place, another his title, a
+third his money, and they say this all proceeds from the "Milieu."
+
+Yesterday I saw the "Milieu," in a light grey coat, and with a
+noble air, in the first place on the Ministerial bench. He was
+sharply attacked by M. Mauguin, who has a very long nose. Of course
+you don't care for all this; but what of that? I must have a chat
+with you. In Italy I was lazy, in Switzerland a wild student, in
+Munich a consumer of cheese and beer, and so in Paris I must talk
+politics. I intended to have composed various symphonies, and to
+have written some songs for certain ladies in Frankfort,
+Duesseldorf, and Berlin; but as yet not a chance of it. Paris
+obtrudes herself, and as above all things I must now see Paris, so
+I am busily engaged in seeing it, and am dumb.
+
+Moreover I am freezing with cold--another drawback. I cannot
+contrive to make my room warm, and I am not to get another and
+warmer apartment, till New Year's Day. In a dark little hole on the
+ground floor, overlooking a small damp garden, where my feet are
+like ice, how can I possibly write music? It is bitterly cold, and
+an Italian like myself is peculiarly susceptible. At this moment a
+man outside my window is singing a political song to a guitar.
+
+I live a reckless life--out morning, noon, and night: to-day at
+Baillot's; to-morrow I go to some friends of the Bigots; the next
+day, Valentin; Monday, Fould; Tuesday, Hiller; Wednesday, Gerard;
+and the previous week it was just the same. In the forenoon I rush
+off to the Louvre, and gaze at the Raphaels, and my favourite
+Titian; a person might well wish for a dozen more eyes to look at
+such a picture.
+
+Yesterday I was in the Chamber of Peers, who were engaged in
+pronouncing judgment on their own hereditary rights, and I saw M.
+Pasquier's wig. The day before I paid two musical visits, to the
+grumbling Cherubini, and the kind Herz. There is a large sign-board
+before the house: "Manufacture de Pianos, par Henri Herz, Marchand
+de Modes et de Nouveautes." I thought this formed one, not
+observing that it was a notice of two different firms, so I went in
+below, and found myself surrounded by gauze, and lace, and
+trimmings: so, rather abashed, I asked where the pianos were. A
+number of Herz's fair scholars with industrious faces, were
+waiting upstairs. I sat down by the fire and read your interesting
+account of our dear father's birthday, and so forth. Herz presently
+arrived, and gave audience to his pupils. We were very loving,
+recalled old times, and besprinkled each other mutually with great
+praise. On his pianos is inscribed: "Medaille d'or. Exposition de
+1827." This was very imposing.
+
+From thence I went to Erard's, where I tried over his instruments,
+and remarked written on them in large letters: "Medaille d'or.
+Exposition de 1827." My respect seemed to diminish. When I went
+home I opened my own instrument by Pleyel, and to be sure there
+also I saw in large letters: "Medaille d'or. Exposition de
+1827." The matter is like the title of "Hofrath," but it is
+characteristic. It is alleged that the chambers are about to
+discuss the following proposition: "Tous les Francais du sexe
+masculin ont des leur naissance le droit de porter l'ordre de la
+Legion d'Honneur," and the permission to appear without the order,
+can only be obtained by special services. You really scarcely see a
+man in the street without a bit of coloured ribbon, so it is no
+longer a distinction.
+
+_Apropos_, shall I be lithographed full length? Answer what you
+will, I don't intend to do it. One afternoon in Berlin, when I was
+standing _unter den Linden_ before Schenk's shop looking at H----'s
+and W----'s lithographs, I made a solemn vow to myself, unheard by
+man, that I would never allow myself to be hung up till I became a
+great man. The temptation in Munich was strong; there they wished
+to drape me with a Carbonaro cloak, a stormy sky in the background,
+and my fac-simile underneath, but I happily got off by adhering to
+my principles. Here again I am rather tempted, for the likenesses
+are very striking, but I keep my vow; and if, after all, I never do
+become a great man, though posterity will be deprived of a
+portrait, it will have an absurdity the less.
+
+It is now the 24th, and we had a very pleasant evening at Baillot's
+yesterday. He plays beautifully, and had collected a very musical
+society of attentive ladies and enthusiastic gentlemen, and I have
+seldom been so well amused in any circle, or enjoyed such honours.
+It was the greatest possible delight to me to hear my quartett in E
+flat major (dedicated to B. P.) performed in Paris by Baillot's
+quartett, and they executed it with fire and spirit. They commenced
+with a quintett by Bocherini, an old-fashioned _perruque_, but a
+very amiable old gentleman underneath it. The company then asked
+for a sonata of Bach's; we selected the one in A major; old
+familiar tones dawned once more on me, of the time when Baillot
+played it with Madame Bigot.[26] We urged each other on, the affair
+became animated, and so thoroughly amused both us and our audience,
+that we immediately commenced the one in E major, and next time we
+mean to introduce the four others.
+
+  [26] The lady who instructed Mendelssohn in the piano in Paris,
+  when the family resided there for a time in 1816.
+
+Then my turn came to play a solo. I was in the vein to extemporize
+successfully, and felt that I did so. The guests being now in a
+graver mood, I took three themes from the previous sonatas, and
+worked them up to my heart's content; it seemed to give immense
+pleasure to those present, for they shouted and applauded like mad.
+Then Baillot gave my quartett; his manner towards me has something
+very kind, and I was doubly pleased, as he is rather cold at first
+and seldom makes advances to any one. He appears a good deal
+depressed by the loss of his situation. I saw a number of old
+well-known faces, and they asked after you all, and recalled many
+anecdotes of that former period.
+
+When I was passing through Louvain two years ago with my
+"Liederspiel" in my head, and my injured knee,[27] I seized the
+brass handle of a pump to prevent myself from falling; and when I
+returned this year in the same miserable diligence, driven by a
+postilion exactly similar, with a big queue, the "Liederspiel," my
+knee, and Italy, were all things of the past; and yet the handle of
+the pump was still hanging there, as clean and brightly rubbed up
+as ever, having survived 1830, and all the revolutionary storms,
+and remaining quite unchanged. This is sentimental; my father must
+not read it, for it is the old story of the past and the present,
+which we discussed so eagerly one fine evening, and which recurs to
+me among the crowd here at every step. I thought of it at the
+Madeleine, and when I went to aunt J----'s, and at the Hotel des
+Princes, and at the gallery, which my father showed me fifteen
+years ago, and when I saw the coloured signs, which at that time
+impressed me exceedingly, and are now grown brown and shabby.
+
+  [27] Mendelssohn had been thrown out of a cabriolet in London in
+  1829, and his knee seriously injured.
+
+Moreover this is Christmas Eve; but I feel little interest in it,
+or in New Year's Night either. Please God, another year may wear a
+very different aspect, and I will not then go to the theatre on
+Christmas Eve, as I am about to do to-night, to hear Lablache and
+Rossini for the first time. How little I care about it! I should
+much prefer _Polichinelles_ and apples to-day, and I think it very
+doubtful whether the orchestra will play as pretty a symphony as my
+"Kinder-Sinfonie."[28] I must be satisfied with it however. I am
+now modulating into the minor key, a fault with which the "Ecole
+Allemande" are often reproached, and as I profess not to belong to
+the latter, the French say I am _cosmopolite_. Heaven defend me
+from being anything of the kind!
+
+  [28] A "Kinder-Sinfonie," composed by Mendelssohn in the year
+  1829, for a Christmas family fete.
+
+And now good-bye; a thousand compliments from Bertin de Vaux, Girod
+de l'Ain, Dupont de l'Eure, Tracy, Sacy, Passy and other kind
+friends. I had intended to have told you in this letter how
+Salverte attacked the Ministers, and how during this time a little
+_emeute_ took place on the Pont Neuf; how I sat in the Chambers
+along with Franck, in the midst of St. Simoniens; how witty Dupin
+was; but no more at present. May you all be well and happy this
+evening, and thinking of me!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, December 28th, 1831.
+
+     Dear Madam Fanny,
+
+For three months past I have been thinking of writing you a musical
+letter, but my procrastination has its revenge, for though I have
+been a fortnight here, I don't know whether I shall still be able
+to do so. I have appeared in every possible mood here; in that of
+an inquiring, admiring traveller; a coxcomb; a Frenchman, and
+yesterday actually as a Peer of France; but not yet as a musician.
+Indeed there is little likelihood of the latter, for the aspect of
+music here is miserable enough.
+
+The concerts in the Conservatoire, which were my great object,
+probably will not take place at all, because the Commission of the
+Ministry wished to give a Commission to the Commission of the
+society, to deprive a Commission of Professors of their share of
+the profits; on which the Commission of the Conservatoire replied
+to the Commission of the Ministry, that they might go and be hanged
+(suspended), and then they would not consent to it. The newspapers
+make some very severe comments on this, but you need not read them,
+as these papers are prohibited in Berlin; but you don't lose much
+by this. The Opera Comique is bankrupt, and so it has had
+_relache_ since I came; at the Grand Opera, they only give little
+operas, which amuse me, though they neither provoke nor excite me.
+"Armida" was the last great opera, but they gave it in three acts,
+and this was two years ago. Choron's "Institut" is closed, the
+"Chapelle Royale" is gone out like a light; not a single Mass is to
+be heard on Sundays in all Paris, unless accompanied by serpents.
+Malibran is to appear here next week for the last time. So much the
+better, say you: retire within yourself, and write music for "Ach
+Gott vom Himmel," or a symphony, or the new violin quartett which
+you mentioned in your letter to me of the 28th, or any other
+serious composition; but this is even more impossible, for what is
+going on here is most deeply interesting, and entices you out,
+suggesting matter for thought and memory and absorbing every moment
+of time. Accordingly I was yesterday in the Chambre des Pairs, and
+counted along with them the votes, destined to abolish a very
+ancient privilege; immediately afterwards I hurried off to the
+Theatre Francais, where Mars was to appear for the first time for a
+year past; (she is fascinating beyond conception; a voice that we
+shall never hear equalled, causing you to weep, and yet to feel
+pleasure in doing so). To-day I must see Taglioni again, who along
+with Mars constitutes two Graces (if I find a third in my travels,
+I mean to marry her), and afterwards I mean to go to Gerard's
+classical _salon_. I lately went to hear Lablache and Rubini, after
+hearing Odillon Barrot quarrel with the Ministry. Having seen the
+pictures in the Louvre in the morning, I went to Baillot's; so what
+chance is there of living in retirement? The outer world is too
+tempting.
+
+There are moments, however, when my thoughts turn inwards--such as
+on that memorable evening, when Lablache sang so beautifully, or on
+Christmas-day, when there were no bells and no festivities, or when
+Paul's letter came from London, inviting me to visit him next
+spring; the said spring to be passed in England. Then I feel that
+all that now interests me is merely superficial: that I am neither
+a politician, nor a dancer, nor an actor, nor a _bel esprit_, but a
+_musician_--so I take courage, and am now writing a professional
+letter to my dear sister.
+
+My conscience smote me, especially when I read about your new music
+that you so carefully conducted on my father's birthday, and I
+reproached myself for not having said a single word to you about
+your previous composition; but I cannot let you off that, my
+colleague! What the deuce made you think of setting your G horns so
+high? Did you ever hear a G horn take the high G without a squeak?
+I only put this to yourself! and at the end of this introduction,
+when wind instruments come in, does not the following note
+
+  [Music]
+
+stare you in the face, and do not these deep oboes growl away all
+pastoral feeling, and all bloom? Do you not know that you ought to
+take out a license to sanction your writing the low B for oboes,
+and that it is only permitted on particular occasions, such as
+witches, or some great grief? Has not the composer evidently, in
+the A major air, overloaded the voice by too many other parts, so
+that the delicate intention, and the lovely melody of this
+otherwise charming piece, with all its beauties, is quite obscured
+and eclipsed?
+
+To speak seriously, however, this aria is very beautiful, and
+particularly fascinating. But I have a remark to make about your
+two choruses, which indeed applies rather to the text than to you.
+These two choruses are not sufficiently original. This sounds
+absurd; but my opinion is that it is the fault of the words, that
+express nothing original; one single expression might have improved
+the whole, but as they now stand, they would be equally suitable
+for church music, a cantata, an offertorium, etc. Where, however,
+they are not of such universal application, as for example, the
+lament at the end, they seem to be sentimental and not natural. The
+words of the last chorus are too material ("mit dem kraftlosen
+Mund, und der sich regenden Zunge"). At the beginning of the aria
+alone, are the words vigorous and spirited, and from them emanated
+the whole of your lovely piece of music. The choruses are of course
+fine, for they are written by you; but in the first place, it seems
+to me that they might be by any other good master, and secondly, as
+if they were not _necessarily_ what they are, indeed as if they
+might have been _differently_ composed. This arises from the
+poetry not imposing any particular music. I know that the latter is
+often the case with my own compositions; but though I am fully
+aware of the beam in my own eyes, I would fain extract the mote
+from yours, to relieve you at once from its pressure.
+
+My _resume_ therefore is, that I would advise you to be more
+cautious in the choice of your words, because, after all, it is not
+everything in the Bible, even if it suits the theme, that is
+suggestive of _music_; but you have probably obviated these
+objections of mine in your new cantata, before being aware of them,
+in which case, I might as well have said nothing. So much the
+better if it be so, and then you can prosecute me for defamation!
+So far as your music and composition are concerned, they quite suit
+my taste; the young lady's cloven foot nowhere peeps forth, and if
+I knew any _Kapellmeister_ capable of writing such music, I would
+give him a place at my court. Fortunately I know no such person,
+and there is no occasion to place you at my right hand at court, as
+you are there already.[29]
+
+  [29] A play upon Fanny Hensel's house, in a court--No. 3,
+  Leipziger Strasse.
+
+When do you mean to send me something new to cheer me? Pray do so
+soon! As far as regards myself, shortly after my arrival here, I
+had one of those attacks of musical spleen, when all music, and
+more especially one's own, becomes actually hateful. I felt
+thoroughly unmusical, and did nothing but eat and sleep, and that
+revived me. F----, to whom I complained of my state, instantly
+constructed a musical theory on the subject, proving that it could
+not be otherwise; I however think exactly the reverse; but though
+we are so entirely dissimilar, and have as many differences as a
+Bushman and Caffre, still we like each other exceedingly.
+
+With L----, too, I get on famously. He is very pleasing, and the
+most _dilettante_ of all the _dilettanti_ I ever met. He knows
+everything by heart, and plays wrong basses to them all; he is only
+deficient in arrogance, for with all his undeniable talent, he is
+very modest and retiring. I am much with him, because he is a
+benevolent, kind-hearted man; we should thoroughly agree on all
+points, if he would not consider me a _doctrinaire_, and persist in
+talking politics (a subject that I wish to avoid for at least a
+hundred and twenty reasons; and chiefly because I don't in the
+least understand it); besides, he delights in hitting at Germany,
+and in depreciating London in favour of Paris. Both these things
+are prejudicial to my _constitution_, and whoever assails that, I
+must defend it and dispute with him.
+
+I was yesterday studying your new music, and enjoying it, when
+Kalkbrenner came in, and played various new compositions. The man
+is become quite romantic, purloins themes, ideas, and similar
+trifles, from Hiller, writes pieces in F sharp minor, practises
+every day for several hours, and is as he always was, a knowing
+fellow. Every time I see him, he inquires after "my charming
+sister, whom he likes so much, and who has such a fine talent for
+playing and composing." My invariable reply is, that she has not
+given up music, that she is very industrious, and that I love her
+very much; which is all true. And now farewell, dear sister. May
+you be well and happy, and may we meet at the New Year.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+TO CARL IMMERMANN IN DUeSSELDORF.
+
+     Paris, January 11th, 1832.
+
+You permitted me to give you occasional tidings of myself, and
+since I came here, I have daily intended to do so; the excitement
+here is however so great, that till to-day I have never been able
+to write. When I contrast this constant whirl and commotion, and
+the thousand distractions among a foreign people, with your house
+in the garden, and your warm winter room, your wish to exchange
+with me and to come here in my place, often recurs to me, and I
+almost wish I had taken you at your word. You must indeed in that
+case have remained all the same in your winter room, so that I
+might come out to you through the snow, take my usual place in the
+corner, and listen to the "Schwanritter;" for there is more life in
+it than in all the tumult here.
+
+In a word, I rejoice at the prospect of my return to Germany;
+everything there is indeed on a small scale, and homely, if you
+will, but _men_ live there; men who know what art really is, who
+do not admire, nor praise, in fact who do not _criticize_, but
+_create_. You do not admit this, but it is only because you are
+yourself among the number.
+
+I beg you will not however think that I am like one of those German
+youths with long hair, lounging about listlessly, and pronouncing
+the French superficial, and Paris frivolous. I only say all this
+because I now thoroughly enjoy and admire Paris, and am becoming
+better acquainted with it, and especially as I am writing to you in
+Duesseldorf. I have, on the contrary, cast myself headlong into the
+vortex, and do nothing the whole day but see new objects, the
+Chambers of Peers and Deputies, pictures and theatres, dio- neo-
+cosmo- and panoramas, constant parties, etc. Moreover, the
+musicians here are as numerous as the sands on the sea-shore, all
+hating each other; so each must be individually visited, and wary
+diplomacy is advisable, for they are all gossips, and what one says
+to another, the whole corps know next morning.
+
+The days have thus flown past hitherto as if only half as long as
+they were in reality, and as yet I have not been able to compose a
+single bar; in a few days, however, this exotic life will cease. My
+head is now dizzy from all I have seen and wondered at; but I then
+intend to collect my thoughts, and set to work, when I shall feel
+once more happy and domesticated.
+
+My chief pleasure is going to the little theatres in the evening,
+because there French life and the French people are truly mirrored;
+the "Gymnase Dramatique" is my particular favourite, where nothing
+is given but small _vaudevilles_. The extreme bitterness and deep
+animosity which pervade all these little comedies, are most
+remarkable, and although partially cloaked by the prettiest
+phrases, and the most lively acting, become only the more
+conspicuous. Politics everywhere play the chief part, which might
+have sufficed to make me dislike these theatres, for we have enough
+of them _elsewhere_; but the politics of the "Gymnase" are of a
+light and ironical description,--referring to the occurrences of
+the day, and to the newspapers, in order to excite laughter and
+applause, and at last you can't help laughing and applauding with
+the rest. Politics and sensuality are the two grand points of
+interest, round which everything circles; and in the many pieces I
+have seen, an attack on the Ministry, and a scene of seduction,
+were never absent.
+
+The whole style of the _vaudeville_, introducing certain
+conventional music at the end of the scene in every piece, when the
+actors partly sing and partly declaim some couplets with a witty
+point, is thoroughly French; we could never learn this, nor in fact
+wish to do so, for this mode of connecting the wit of the day with
+an established _refrain_, does not exist in our conversation, nor
+in our ideas. I cannot imagine anything more striking and
+effective, nor yet more prosaic.
+
+A great sensation has been recently caused here, by a new piece at
+the Gymnase, "Le Luthier de Lisbonne," which forms the delight of
+the public. A stranger is announced in the play-bills; scarcely
+does he appear when all the audience begin to laugh and to applaud,
+and you learn that the actor is a close imitation of Don Miguel, in
+gestures, manner, and costume; he proceeds to announce that he is a
+king, and the fortune of the piece is made. The more stupid,
+uncivilized, and uncouth, the Unknown appears, the greater is the
+enjoyment of the public, who allow none of his gestures or speeches
+to pass unobserved. He takes refuge from a riot in the house of
+this instrument maker, who is the most devoted of all royalists,
+but unluckily the husband of a very pretty woman. One of Don
+Miguel's favourites has forced her to grant him a rendezvous for
+the ensuing night, and he begs the king--who arrives at this
+moment--to give him his aid, by causing the husband to be beheaded.
+Don Miguel replies, "Tres volontiers," and while the Luthier
+recognizes him, and falls at his feet, beside himself from joy, Don
+Miguel signs his death-warrant, but also that of his favourite,
+whom he means to replace with the pretty woman. At each enormity
+that he commits, we laugh and applaud, and are immensely delighted
+with this stupid stage Don Miguel. So ends the first act. In the
+second, it is supposed to be midnight; the pretty wife alone and
+agitated. Don Miguel jumps in at the window, and does all in his
+power to gain her favour, making her dance and sing to him, but she
+cannot endure him, and falls at his feet, imploring him to spare
+her; on which he seizes her, and drags her repeatedly round the
+stage, and if she did not make a snatch at a knife, and then a
+sudden knocking ensue, she might have been in a bad plight; at the
+close, the worthy Luthier rescues the king from the hands of the
+French soldiery, who are just arrived, and of whose valour, and
+love of liberty, he has a great horror. So the piece ends happily.
+
+A little comedy followed, where the wife betrays her husband, and
+has a lover; and another, where the man is faithless to his wife,
+and is maintained by his mistress; this is succeeded by a satire on
+the new constructions in the Tuileries, and on the Ministry, and so
+it goes on.
+
+I cannot say how it may be at the French Opera, for it is bankrupt,
+so there has been no acting there since I came. In the Academie
+Royale, however, Meyerbeer's "Robert le Diable" is played every
+night with great success; the house is always crowded, and the
+music has given general satisfaction. There is an expenditure of
+all possible means of producing stage effect, that I never saw
+equalled on any stage. All who can sing, dance, or act in Paris,
+sing, dance, and act on this occasion.
+
+The _sujet_ is romantic; that is, the devil appears in the
+piece--(this is quite sufficient romance and imagination for the
+Parisians). It is however very bad; and were it not for two
+brilliant scenes of seduction it would produce no effect whatever.
+The devil is a poor devil, and appears in armour, for the purpose
+of leading astray his son Robert, a Norman knight, who loves a
+Sicilian princess. He succeeds in inducing him to stake his money
+and all his personal property (that is, his sword) at dice, and
+then makes him commit sacrilege, giving him a magic branch, which
+enables him to penetrate into the Princess's apartment, and renders
+him irresistible. The son does all this with apparent willingness;
+but when at the end he is to assign himself to his father, who
+declares that he loves him, and cannot live without him, the devil,
+or rather the poet Scribe, introduces a peasant girl, who has in
+her possession the will of Robert's deceased mother, and reads him
+the document, which makes him doubt the story he has been told; so
+the devil is obliged to sink down through a trap-door at midnight,
+with his purpose unfulfilled, on which Robert marries the Princess,
+and the peasant girl, it seems, is intended to represent the
+principle of good. The devil is called Bertram.
+
+I cannot imagine how any music could be composed on such a cold,
+formal _extravaganza_ as this, and so the opera does not satisfy
+me. It is throughout frigid and heartless; and where this is the
+case it produces no effect on me. The people extol the music, but
+where warmth and truth are wanting, I have no test to apply.
+
+Michael Beer set off to-day for Havre. It seems he intends to
+compose poetry there; and I now remember that when I met you one
+day at Schadow's, and maintained that he was no poet, your
+rejoinder was, "That is a matter of taste." I seldom see Heine,
+because he is entirely absorbed in liberal ideas and in politics.
+He has recently published sixty "Fruehlings Lieder." Very few of
+them seem to me either genuine or truthful, but these few are
+indeed inimitable. Have you read them? They appeared in the second
+volume of the "Reisebilder." Boerne intends to publish some new
+volumes of letters: he and I are full of enthusiasm for Malibran
+and Taglioni; all these gentlemen are abusing and reviling Germany
+and all that is German, and yet they cannot speak even tolerable
+French; I think this rather provoking.
+
+Pray excuse my having sent you so much gossip, and for writing to
+you on such a disreputable margin of paper; but it is long since we
+met; and as for a time I could see you every day, it has become
+quite a necessity to write to you; so you must not take it amiss.
+You once promised to send me a few lines in reply: I don't know
+whether I may venture to remind you of this, but I should really be
+glad to hear how you pass your time, and what novelty a certain
+cupboard in the corner contains; how you get on with "Merlin," and
+my "Schwanritter," the sound of which still vibrates in my ears
+like sweet music; and also whether you sometimes think of me, and
+of next May, and "The Tempest." It is certainly expecting a good
+deal to ask you for an early reply to my letter, but I fear that
+you had enough of the first, and would rather not receive a second;
+therefore I take courage, and beg for an answer to this one. But I
+need not have asked this, for you usually guess my wishes before I
+can utter them; and if you are as kindly disposed towards me now
+as you were then, you will fulfil this desire of mine as you did
+all the others.--Yours,
+
+        FELIX MENDELSSOHN BARTHOLDY.
+
+
+     Paris, January 14th, 1832.
+
+I now first begin to feel at home here, and really to know Paris;
+it is indeed the most singular and amusing place imaginable; but
+for one who is no politician, it does not possess so much interest.
+So I have become a _doctrinaire_. I read my newspaper every
+morning, form my own opinion about peace and war, and, only among
+friends, confess that I know nothing of the matter.
+
+This is however not the case with F----, who is completely absorbed
+in the vortex of dilettantism and dogmatism, and really believes
+himself quite adapted to be a Minister. It is a sad pity, for
+nothing good will ever come of it. He has sufficient sense to be
+always occupied, but not enough to conduct any affair. He is a
+_dilettante_ on all points, and has a clever knack of criticizing
+others, but he produces nothing. We continue on the same intimate
+terms, meeting every day, and liking each other's society, but
+inwardly we remain strangers. I suspect that he writes for the
+public papers; he is very much with Heine, and chatters abuse
+against Germany like a magpie; all this I much dislike, and as I
+really have a sincere regard for him, it worries me. I suppose I
+must try to become accustomed to it, but it is really too sad to
+know where a person is deficient, and yet to be unable to remedy
+their defects. Moreover he grows visibly older; so this irregular,
+unoccupied life is the less suitable for him.
+
+A---- has left his parents' house, and gone to the Rue
+Monsigny,[30] where body and soul are equally engrossed. I have in
+my possession an appeal to mankind from P---- in which he makes his
+confession of faith, and invites every one to surrender a share of
+his property, however small, to the St. Simoniens; calling on all
+artists to devote their genius in future to this religion; to
+compose better music than Rossini or Beethoven; to build temples of
+peace, and to paint like Raphael or David. I have twenty copies of
+this pamphlet, which P---- desired me, dear Father, to send to you.
+I rest satisfied by sending you _one_, which you will find quite
+enough, and even that one, by some private hand of course.
+
+  [30] At that time the residence of the St. Simoniens.
+
+It is a bad sign of the state of the public mind here, that such a
+monstrous doctrine, in such detestable prose, should ever have
+existed, or impressed others; for it appears that the students of
+the Polytechnic School take considerable interest in it. It is
+difficult to say how far it may be carried, when there is
+temptation offered on every side, promising honour to one, fame to
+another; to me, an admiring public, and to the poor, money; while
+by their cold estimate of talent, they check all effort, and all
+progress. And then their ideas as to universal brotherhood, their
+disbelief in hell, and the devil, and eternal perdition, and of the
+annihilation of all egotism,--ideas, which in our country spring
+from nature, and prevail in every part of Christendom, and without
+which I should not wish to live, but which they however regard as a
+new invention and discovery, constantly repeating that they mean to
+transform the world, and to render mankind happy. A---- coolly
+tells me that he does not require to improve himself, but others
+only; because he is not at all imperfect, but on the contrary,
+perfect. They not only praise and compliment each other, but all
+those whom they wish to gain over; extolling any talent or
+capability you may possess, and lamenting that such great powers
+should be lost, by adhering to the old-fashioned notions of duty,
+vocation, and action, as they were formerly interpreted. When I
+listen to all this, it does seem to me a melancholy mystification.
+I attended a meeting last Sunday, where all the Fathers sat in a
+circle: then came the principal Father and demanded their reports,
+praising and blaming them, addressing the assembly, and issuing his
+commands; to me it was quite awful! A---- has completely renounced
+his parents, and lives with the Fathers, his disciples, and is
+endeavouring to procure a loan for their benefit; but enough of
+this subject!
+
+A Pole gives a concert next week, where I am to play in a
+composition for six performers, along with Kalkbrenner, Hiller,
+and Co.; do not be surprised therefore if you see my name
+mutilated, as in the "Messager" lately, when the death of Professor
+Flegel (Hegel) was announced from Berlin, and all the papers copied
+it.
+
+I have set to work again, and live most agreeably. I have not yet
+been able to write to you about the theatres, although they occupy
+me very much. How plain are the symptoms of bitterness and
+excitement even in the most insignificant farce; how invariably
+everything bears a reference to politics; how completely what is
+called the Romantic School has infected all the Parisians, for they
+think of nothing on the stage now but the plague, the gallows, the
+devil, etc., one striving to outstrip the other in horrors, and in
+liberalism; in the midst of these _miseres_ and fooleries, how
+charming is a talent like that of Leontine Fay, who is the
+perfection of grace and fascination, and remains unsullied by the
+absurdities she is compelled to utter and to act. How strange all
+these contrasts are! but this I reserve for future discussion.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, January 21st, 1832.
+
+In every letter of yours I receive a little hit, because my answers
+are not very punctual, and so I reply without delay to your
+questions, dear Fanny, with regard to the new works that I am about
+to publish.
+
+It occurred to me that the octett and the quintett might make a
+very good appearance among my works, being in fact better than many
+compositions that already figure there. As the publication of these
+pieces costs me nothing, but, on the contrary, I derive profit from
+them, and not wishing to confuse their chronological order, my idea
+is to publish the following pieces at Easter:--quintett and octett
+(the latter also arranged as a duet), "Midsummer Night's Dream,"
+seven songs without words, six songs with words; on my return to
+Germany, six pieces of sacred music, and finally, if I can get any
+one to print it, and to pay for it, the symphony in D minor. As
+soon as I have performed "Meeresstille" at my concert in Berlin, it
+will also appear. I cannot however bring out "The Hebrides" here,
+because, as I wrote to you at the time, I do not consider it
+finished; the middle movement forte in D major is very stupid, and
+the whole modulations savour more of counterpoint, than of train
+oil and seagulls and salt fish--and it ought to be exactly the
+reverse. I like the piece too well to allow it to be performed in
+an imperfect state, and I hope soon to be able to work at it, and
+to have it ready for England, and the Michaelmas fair at Leipzig.
+
+You inquire also why I do not compose the Italian symphony in A
+major. Because I am composing the Saxon overture in A minor, which
+is to precede the "Walpurgis Night," that the work may be played
+with all due honour at the said Berlin concert, and elsewhere.
+
+You wish me to remove to the Marais, and to write the whole day. My
+dear child, that would never do; I have, at the most, only the
+prospect of three months to see Paris, so I must throw myself into
+the stream; indeed, this is why I came; everything here is too
+bright, and too attractive to be neglected; it rounds off my
+pleasant travelling reminiscences, and forms a fine colossal
+key-stone, and so I consider that to see Paris is at this moment my
+chief vocation. The publishers too are standing on each side of me
+like veritable Satans, demanding music for the piano, and offering
+to pay for it. By Heavens! I don't know whether I shall be able to
+withstand this, or write some kind of trio; for I hope you believe
+me to be superior to the temptation of a _pot-pourri_; but I should
+like to compose a couple of good trios.
+
+On Thursday the first rehearsal of my overture takes place, which
+is to be performed in the second concert at the "Conservatoire." In
+the third my symphony in D minor is to follow. Habeneck talks of
+seven or eight rehearsals, which will be very welcome to me.
+Moreover I am also to play something at Erard's concert; so I shall
+play my Munich concerto, but I must first practise it well. Then, a
+note is lying beside me, "Le President du Conseil, Ministre de
+l'Interieur, et Madame Casimir Perier prient," etc., on Monday
+evening to a ball; this evening there is to be music at Habeneck's;
+to-morrow at Schlesinger's; Tuesday, the first public _soiree_ at
+Baillot's; on Wednesday, Hiller plays his Concerto in the Hotel de
+Ville, and this always lasts till past midnight. Let those who like
+it, lead a solitary life! these are all things that cannot be
+refused. So when am I to compose? In the forenoon? Yesterday, first
+Hiller came, then Kalkbrenner, then Habeneck. The day before that,
+came Baillot, Eichthal, and Rodrigues. Perhaps very early in the
+morning? Well, I do compose then--so you are confuted!
+
+P---- was with me yesterday, talking St. Simonienism, and either
+from a conviction of my stupidity, or my shrewdness, he made me
+disclosures which shocked me so much, that I resolved never again
+to go either to him or to his confederates. Early this morning
+Hiller rushed in, and told me he had just witnessed the arrest of
+the St. Simoniens. He wished to hear their orations; but the
+Fathers did not come. All of a sudden soldiers made their way in,
+and requested those present to disperse as quickly as possible,
+inasmuch as M. Enfantin and the others had been arrested in the Rue
+Monsigny. A party of National Guards are placed in the street, and
+other soldiers marched up there; everything is sealed up, and now
+the _proces_ will begin. My B minor quartett, which is lying in the
+Rue Monsigny, is also sealed up. The adagio alone is in the style
+of the "juste Milieu," all the other parts _mouvement_. I suppose I
+shall eventually be obliged to play it before a jury.
+
+I was lately standing beside the Abbe Bardin at a large party,
+listening to the performance of my quartett in A minor. At the last
+movement my neighbour pulled my coat, and said: "Il a cela dans
+une de ses sinfonies." "Qui?" said I, rather embarrassed.
+"Beethoven, l'auteur de ce quatuor," said he, with a consequential
+air. This was a very doubtful compliment! but is it not famous that
+my quartett should be played in the classes of the Conservatoire,
+and that the pupils there are practising off their fingers to play
+"Ist es wahr?"
+
+I have just come from St. Sulpice, where the organist showed off
+his organ to me; it sounded like a full chorus of old women's
+voices; but they maintain that it is the finest organ in Europe if
+it were only put into proper order, which would cost thirty
+thousand francs. The effect of the _canto fermo_, accompanied by a
+serpent, those who have not heard it could scarcely conceive, and
+clumsy bells are ringing all the time.
+
+The post is going, so I must conclude my gossip, or I might go on
+in this manner till the day after to-morrow. I have not yet told
+you that Bach's "Passion" is announced for performance in London,
+at Easter, in the Italian Opera House.--Yours,
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, February 4th, 1832.
+
+You will, I am sure, excuse my writing you only a few words to-day:
+it was but yesterday that I heard of my irreparable loss.[31] Many
+hopes, and a pleasant bright period of my life have departed with
+him, and I never again can feel so happy. I must now set about
+forming new plans, and building fresh castles in the air; the
+former ones are irrevocably gone, for he was interwoven with them
+all. I shall never be able to think of my boyish days, nor of the
+ensuing ones, without connecting him with them, and I had hoped,
+till now, that it might be the same for the future. I must
+endeavour to inure myself to this, but I can recall no one thing
+without being reminded of him; I shall never hear music, or write
+it, without thinking of him; all this makes the rending asunder of
+such a tie doubly distressing. The former epoch has now wholly
+passed away, but not only do I lose that, but also the man I so
+sincerely loved. If I never had any especial reason for loving him,
+or if I no longer had such reasons, I must have loved him all the
+same, even without a reason. He loved me too, and the knowledge
+that there was such a man in the world--one on whom you could
+repose, and who lived to love you, and whose wishes and aims were
+identical with your own--this is all over: it is the most severe
+blow I have ever received, and never can I forget him.
+
+  [31] The death of his friend Edward Ritz, the violin player.
+
+This was the celebration of my birthday. When I was listening to
+Baillot on Tuesday, and said to Hiller that I only knew one man who
+could play the music I loved for me, L---- was standing beside me,
+and knew what had happened, but did not give me the letter. He was
+not aware indeed that yesterday was my birthday, but he broke it to
+me by degrees yesterday morning, and then I recalled previous
+anniversaries, and took a review of the past, as every one should
+on his birthday; I remembered how invariably on this day he arrived
+with some special gift which he had long thought of, and which was
+always as pleasing and agreeable and welcome as himself. The day
+was a melancholy one to me: I could neither do anything, nor think
+of anything, but the one subject.
+
+To-day I have compelled myself to work, and succeeded. My overture
+in A minor is finished. I think of writing some pieces here, which
+will be well remunerated.
+
+I beg you will tell me every particular about him, and every
+detail, no matter how trifling; it will be a comfort to me to hear
+of him once more. The octett parts, so neatly copied by him, are
+lying before me at this moment, and remind me of him. I hope
+shortly to recover my usual equanimity, and to be able to write to
+you in better spirits and more at length. A new chapter in my life
+has begun, but as yet it has no title. Your
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, February 13th, 1832.
+
+I am now leading a quiet, pleasant life here; neither my present
+frame of mind, nor the pleasures of society, tempt me to enter into
+gaiety. Here, and indeed everywhere else, society is uninteresting,
+and not improving, and owing to the late hours, monopolizing a
+great deal of time. I do not refuse, however, when there is to be
+good music. I will write all particulars to Zelter of the first
+concert in the Conservatoire. The performers there play quite
+admirably, and in so finished a style, that it is indeed a pleasure
+to hear them; they delight in it themselves, and each takes the
+greatest possible trouble; the leader is an energetic, experienced
+musician, so they cannot fail to go well together.
+
+To-morrow my A minor quartett is to be performed in public.
+Cherubini says of Beethoven's later music, "Ca me fait eternuer,"
+and so I think it probable that the whole public will sneeze
+to-morrow. The performers are Baillot, Sauzay, Urhan, and
+Norblin--the best here.
+
+My overture in A minor is completed; it represents bad weather. A
+few days ago I finished an introduction, where it thaws, and spring
+arrives; I have counted the sheets of the "Walpurgis Night,"
+revised the seven numbers a little, and then boldly written
+underneath--Milan, July; Paris, February. I think it will please
+you. I must now write an adagio for my quintett without delay; the
+performers are calling loudly for one, and they are right.
+
+I do wish you could hear a rehearsal of my "Midsummer Night's
+Dream" at the Conservatoire, where they play it most beautifully.
+It is not yet certain whether it will be ready by next Sunday;
+there are to be two more rehearsals before then, but as yet it has
+only been twice played over. I think however that it will do, and I
+would rather it was given on Sunday than at the third concert,
+because I am to play on behalf of the poor on the 26th (something
+of Weber's), and on the 27th at Erard's concert (my Munich
+Concerto), and at other places, and I should like my composition to
+appear first at the "Conservatoire." I am also to play there, and
+the members are anxious that I should give them a Sonata of
+Beethoven's; it may seem bold, but I prefer his Concerto in G
+major, which is quite unknown here.
+
+I look forward with the utmost delight to the symphony in D minor,
+which is to be rehearsed next week; I certainly never dreamt that I
+should hear it in Paris for the first time.
+
+I often visit the theatre, where I see a great display of wit and
+talent, but a degree of immorality that almost exceeds belief. It
+is supposed that no lady can go to the "Gymnase"--still they do go.
+Depict me to yourself as reading "Notre Dame," dining with one or
+other of my acquaintances every day, and taking advantage of the
+lovely bright spring weather after three o'clock, to take a walk,
+and to pay a few visits, and to look at the gaily-dressed ladies
+and gentlemen in the splendid gardens of the Tuileries--then you
+will have my day in Paris. Adieu.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, February 21st, 1832.
+
+Almost every letter that I receive from you now announces some sad
+loss. Yesterday I got the one in which you tell me about poor
+U----, whom I shall no longer find with you; so this is not a time
+for idle talk; I feel that I must work, and strive to make
+progress.
+
+I have composed a grand adagio as an intermezzo for the quintett.
+It is called "Nachruf," and it occurred to me, as I had to compose
+something for Baillot, who plays so beautifully, and is so kindly
+disposed towards me, and who wishes to perform it in public; and
+yet he is only a recent acquaintance. Two days ago my overture to
+the "Midsummer Night's Dream" was given for the first time at a
+concert in the Conservatoire. It caused me great pleasure, for it
+went admirably, and seemed also to please the audience. It is to be
+repeated at one of the ensuing concerts, and my symphony, which has
+been rather delayed on this account, is to be rehearsed on Friday
+or Saturday. In the fourth or fifth concert, I am to play
+Beethoven's Concerto in G major.
+
+The musicians are all amazement at the honours conferred on me by
+the Conservatoire. They played my A minor quartett wonderfully last
+Tuesday, with such fire and precision, that it was delightful to
+listen to them, and as I can never again hear Ritz, I shall
+probably never hear it better given. It appeared to make a great
+impression on the audience, and at the scherzo they were quite
+uproarious.
+
+It is now high time, dear father, to write you a few words with
+regard to my travelling plans, and on this occasion in a more
+serious strain than usual, for many reasons. I must first, in
+taking a general view of the past, refer to what you designed to be
+the chief object of my journey; desiring me strictly to adhere to
+it. I was closely to examine the various countries, and to fix on
+the one where I wished to live and to work; I was further to make
+known my name and capabilities, in order that the people, among
+whom I resolved to settle, should receive me well, and not be
+wholly ignorant of my career; and, finally, I was to take advantage
+of my own good fortune, and your kindness, to press forward in my
+subsequent efforts. It is a happy feeling to be able to say, that I
+believe this has been the case.
+
+Always excepting those mistakes which are not discovered till too
+late, I think I have fulfilled the appointed object. People now
+know that I exist, and that I have a purpose, and any talent that I
+display, they are ready to approve and to accept. They have _made
+advances_ to me here, and _proposed_ to take my music, which they
+seldom do; as all the others, even Onslow, have been obliged to
+_offer_ their compositions. The London Philharmonic have requested
+me to perform something new of my own there on the 10th of March. I
+also got the commission from Munich without taking any step
+whatever to obtain it, and indeed not till _after_ my concert. It
+is my intention to give a concert here (if possible) and certainly
+in London in April, if the cholera does not prevent my going there;
+and this on my own account, in order to make money; I hope,
+therefore, I may say that I have also fulfilled this part of your
+wish--that I should make myself known to the public before
+returning to you.
+
+Your injunction, too, to make choice of the country that I
+preferred to live in, I have equally performed, at least in a
+general point of view. That country is Germany. This is a point on
+which I have now quite made up my mind. I cannot yet, however,
+decide on the particular city, for the most important of all, which
+for various reasons has so many attractions for me. I have not yet
+thought of in this light--I allude to Berlin. On my return,
+therefore, I must ascertain whether I can remain and establish
+myself there, according to my views and wishes, after having seen
+and enjoyed other places.
+
+This is also why I do not endeavour to get the commission for an
+opera here. If I compose really good music, which in these days is
+indispensable, it will both be understood and valued in Germany.
+(This has been the case with all the good operas there.) If I
+compose indifferent music, it will be quickly forgotten in Germany,
+but here it would be often performed and extolled, and sent to
+Germany, and given there on the authority of Paris, as we daily
+see. But I do not choose this; and if I am not capable of composing
+good music, I have no wish to be praised for it. So I shall first
+try Germany; and if things go so badly that I can no longer live
+there, I can then have recourse to some foreign country. Besides,
+few German theatres are so bad or in so dilapidated a condition as
+the Opera Comique here. One bankruptcy succeeds another. When
+Cherubini is asked why he does not allow his operas to be given
+there, he replies, "Je ne sais pas donner des operas, sans choeur,
+sans orchestre, sans chanteurs, et sans decorations." The Grand
+Opera has bespoken operas for years to come, so there is no chance
+of anything being accepted by it for the next three or four years.
+
+In the meantime therefore I intend to return to you to write my
+"Tempest," and to see how it succeeds. The plan, therefore, dear
+father, that I wish to lay before you is this--to remain here till
+the end of March, or the beginning of April, (the invitation to the
+Philharmonic for the 10th of March, I have of course declined, or
+rather postponed,) then to go to London for a couple of months. If
+the Rhenish musical festival takes place, to which I am summoned, I
+shall go to Duesseldorf; and if not, return direct to you by the
+shortest road, and be by your side in the garden soon after
+Whitsunday. Farewell!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, March 15th, 1832.
+
+     Dear Mother,
+
+  [Music]
+
+This is the 15th of March, 1832. May every happiness and good
+attend you on this day. You prefer _receiving_ my letter on your
+birthday, to its being written on the day itself; but forgive me
+for saying that I cannot reconcile myself to this. My father said
+that no one could tell what might occur subsequently, therefore the
+letter ought to arrive on the anniversary of the day; but then I
+have this feeling in _double_ measure, as I neither in that case
+know what is to occur to _you_ on that day, nor to _myself_; but if
+your birthday be actually arrived, then I almost feel as if I were
+beside you, though you cannot hear my congratulations; but I can
+then send them to you, without any other solicitude than that of
+absence. This too will soon be over, please God. May He preserve
+you, and all at home, happily to me!
+
+I have now begun to throw myself in right earnest into a musical
+life, and as I know this must be satisfactory to you, I will write
+some details; for a letter and a sketch-book that I wished to send
+you some days ago by Mortier's aide-de-camp, are still waiting,
+like all Paris, for the departure of the Marshal, which does not
+however take place. If the letter and the book do eventually reach
+you through this man, pray give a kind reception to the whole
+consignment, but especially to the man (Count Perthuis), for he is
+one of the most friendly and amiable persons I ever met with.
+
+I had told you in that letter, that I am to play Beethoven's
+Concerto in G major two days hence, in the Conservatoire, and that
+the whole Court are to be present for the first time at the
+concert. K---- is ready to poison me from envy; he at first tried
+by a thousand intrigues to prevent my playing altogether, and when
+he heard that the Queen was actually coming, the did everything in
+his power to get me out of the way. Happily all the other members
+of the Conservatoire, the all-powerful Habeneck in particular, are
+my faithful allies, and so he signally failed. He is the only
+musician here who acts unkindly and hypocritically towards me; and
+though I never placed much confidence in him, still it is always a
+very painful sensation to know that you are in the society of a
+person who hates you, but is careful not to show it.
+
+
+     The 17th.
+
+I could not finish this letter, because during the last few days
+the incessant music I told you of, has been so overwhelming, that I
+really scarcely knew which way to turn. A mere catalogue therefore
+of all I have done, and have still to do, must suffice for to-day,
+and at the same time plead my excuse.
+
+I have just come back from a rehearsal at the Conservatoire. We
+rehearsed steadily; twice yesterday, and to-day almost everything
+repeated, but now all goes swimmingly. If the audience to-morrow
+are only half as enchanted as the orchestra to-day, we shall do
+well; for they shouted loudly for the adagio _da capo_, and
+Habeneck made them a little speech, to point out to them that at
+the close there was a solo bar, which they must be so good as to
+wait for. You would be gratified to see all the little kindnesses
+and courtesies the latter shows me. At the end of each movement of
+the symphony, he asks me if there is anything I do not approve of,
+so I have been able for the first time, to introduce into the
+French orchestra some favourite _nuances_ of my own.
+
+After the rehearsal Baillot played my octett in his class, and if
+any man in the world can play it, he is the man. His performance
+was finer than I ever heard it, and so was that of Urhan, Norblin,
+and the others, who all attacked the piece with the most ardent
+energy and spirit.
+
+Besides all this, I must finish the arrangement of the overture and
+the octett, and revise the quintett, as Simrock has bought it. I
+must write out "Lieder," and enjoy the author's delight of working
+up my B minor quartett, for it is to be brought out here by two
+different publishers, who have requested me to make some
+alterations before it is published. Finally, I have _soirees_ every
+evening. To-night Bohrer's; to-morrow a fete, with all the violin
+_gamins_ of the Conservatoire; next day, Rothschild; Tuesday, the
+Societe des Beaux-Arts; Wednesday my octett at the Abbe Bardin's;
+Thursday my octett at Madame Kiene's; Friday, a concert at Erard's;
+Sunday, a concert at Leo's; and lastly, on Monday--laugh if you
+choose--my octett is to be performed in a church, at a funeral Mass
+in commemoration of Beethoven. This is the strangest thing the
+world ever yet saw, but I could not refuse, and I in some degree
+enjoy the thoughts of being present, when Low Mass is read during
+the scherzo. I can scarcely imagine anything more absurd than a
+priest at the altar and my scherzo going on. It is like travelling
+_incognito_. Last of all Baillot gives a grand concert on the 7th
+of April, and so I have promised him to remain here till then, and
+to play a Concerto of Mozart's for him, and some other piece.
+
+On the 8th I take my place in the diligence, and set off to London,
+but before doing so I shall have heard my symphony in the
+Conservatoire, and sold various pieces, and shall leave this,
+rejoicing in the friendly reception I have met with from the
+musicians here.--Farewell!
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+     Paris, March 31st, 1832.
+
+Pray forgive my long silence, but I had nothing cheering to
+communicate, and am always very unwilling to write gloomy letters.
+Indeed, this being the case, I had better still have remained
+silent, for I am in anything but a gay mood. But now that we have
+the spectre here,[32] I mean to write to you regularly, that you
+may know that I am well, and pursuing my work.
+
+  [32] The cholera.
+
+The sad news of Goethe's loss makes me feel poor indeed! What a
+blow to the country! It is another of those mournful events
+connected with my stay here, which will always recur to my mind at
+the very name of Paris; and not all the kindness I have received,
+nor the tumult and excitement, nor the life and gaiety here, can
+ever efface this impression. May it please God to preserve me from
+still worse tidings, and grant us all a happy meeting; this is the
+chief thing!
+
+Various circumstances have induced me to delay my departure from
+here for at least a fortnight,--that is, till the middle of April;
+and the idea of my concert has begun to revive in my mind; I mean
+to accomplish it too, if the cholera does not deter people from
+musical, or any other kind of reunions. We shall know this in the
+course of a week, and in any case I must remain here till then. I
+believe however that everything will go on in the usual regular
+course, and "Figaro" prove to be in the right, who wrote an article
+called "Enfonce le cholera," in which he says that Paris is the
+grave of all reputations, for no one there ever admired anything;
+yawning at Paganini (he does not seem to please much this time),
+and not even looking round in the street at an Emperor or a Dey; so
+possibly this malady might also lose its formidable reputation
+there.
+
+Count Perthuis has no doubt told you of my playing at the
+Conservatoire. The French say that it was _un beau succes_, and the
+audience were pleased. The Queen, too, sent me all sorts of fine
+compliments on the subject. On Saturday I am again to play twice in
+public. My octett, in church on Monday last, exceeded in absurdity
+anything the world ever saw or heard of. While the priest was
+officiating at the altar during the scherzo, it really sounded like
+"Fliegenschnauz und Mueckennas, verfluchte Dilettanten." The people
+however considered it very fine sacred music.
+
+I am indeed delighted, dear Father, that my quartett in B minor
+pleases you; it is a favourite of mine, and I like to play it,
+although the adagio is much too cloying; still, the scherzo that
+follows has all the more effect. I can see that you seem rather
+inclined to deride my A minor quartett, when you say that there is
+a piece of instrumental music which has made you rack your brains
+to discover the composer's thoughts; when, in fact, he probably had
+no thoughts at all. I must defend the work, for I love it; but it
+certainly depends very much on the way in which it is executed, and
+one single musician who could perform it with zeal and sympathy, as
+Taubert did, would make a vast difference.--Your
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+EXTRACT FROM A LETTER FROM LONDON.
+
+     London, April 27th, 1832.
+
+I wish I could only describe how happy I feel to be here once more;
+how much I like everything, and how gratified I am by the kindness
+of old friends; but as it is all going on at this moment, I must be
+brief for to-day.
+
+I have also a number of people to seek out whom I have not yet
+seen, whilst I have been living with Klingemann, Rosen, and
+Moscheles, in as close intimacy as if we had never been parted.
+They form the nucleus of my present sojourn; we see each other
+every day; it is such a pleasure to me to be once more with good,
+earnest men, and true friends, with whom I do not require to be on
+my guard, nor to study them either. Moscheles and his wife show me
+a degree of touching kindness, which I value the more as my regard
+for them increases; and then the feeling of restored health, as if
+I lived afresh, and had come anew into this world--all these are
+combined.[33]
+
+  [33] Felix Mendelssohn had an attack of cholera during the last
+  weeks of his stay in Paris.
+
+
+     May 11th.
+
+I cannot describe to you the happiness of these first weeks here.
+As from time to time every evil seems to accumulate, as it did
+during my winter in Paris, where I lost some of my most beloved
+friends, and never felt at home, and at last became very ill; so
+the reverse sometimes occurs, and thus it is in this charming
+country, where I am once more amongst friends, and am well, and
+among well-wishers, and enjoy in the fullest measure the sensation
+of returning health. Moreover it is warm, the lilacs are in bloom,
+and music is going on: only imagine how pleasant all this is!
+
+I must really describe one happy morning last week: of all the
+flattering demonstrations I have hitherto received, it is the one
+which has most touched and affected me, and perhaps the only one
+which I shall always recall with fresh pleasure. There was a
+rehearsal last Saturday at the Philharmonic, where however nothing
+of mine was given, my overture not being yet written out. After
+"Beethoven's Pastoral Symphony," during which I was in a box, I
+wished to go into the room to talk to some old friends; scarcely,
+however, had I gone down below, when one of the orchestra called
+out, "There is Mendelssohn!" on which they all began shouting, and
+clapping their hands to such a degree, that for a time I really did
+not know what to do; and when this was over, another called out
+"Welcome to him!" on which the same uproar recommenced, and I was
+obliged to cross the room, and to clamber into the orchestra and
+return thanks.
+
+Never can I forget it, for it was more precious to me than any
+distinction, as it showed me that the _musicians_ loved me, and
+rejoiced at my coming, and I cannot tell you what a glad feeling
+this was.
+
+
+     May 18th.
+
+     Dear Father,
+
+I have received your letter of the 9th; God grant that Zelter may
+by this time be safe, and out of danger! You say indeed that he
+already is so, but I shall anxiously expect your next letter, to
+see the news of his recovery confirmed. I have dreaded this ever
+since Goethe's death, but when it actually occurs, it is a very
+different thing. May Heaven avert it!
+
+Pray tell me also what your mean by saying "there is no doubt that
+Zelter both wishes, and requires, to have you with him, because, at
+all events for the present, it is quite impossible for him to carry
+on the Academy, whence it is evident that if you do not undertake
+it, another must." Has Zelter expressed this wish to you, or do you
+only imagine that he entertains it? If the former were the case, I
+would instantly, on receiving your reply, write to Zelter, and
+offer him every service in my power, of every kind, and try to
+relieve him from all his labours, for as long a period as he
+desired; and this it certainly would be my duty to do.
+
+I intended to have written to Lichtenstein before my return about
+the proposal formerly made to me,[34] but of course I have given up
+all thoughts of doing so at present; for on no account would I
+assume that Zelter could not resume his duties, and even in that
+event, I could not reconcile myself to discuss the matter with any
+one but himself; every other mode of proceeding I should consider
+unfair towards him. If however he requires my services, I am ready,
+and shall rejoice if I can be of any use to him, but still more so,
+if he does not want me, and is entirely recovered. I beg you will
+write me a few words on this subject.
+
+  [34] In reference to a situation in the Singacademie.
+
+I must now inform you of my plans and engagements till I leave
+this. Yesterday I finished the "Rondeau brillant," and I am to play
+it this day week at Mori's evening concert. The day after I
+rehearse my Munich Concerto at the Philharmonic, and play it on
+Monday the 28th at their concert; on the 1st of June Moscheles'
+concert, where, with him, I play a Concerto of Mozart's for two
+pianos, and conduct my two overtures, "The Hebrides" and "The
+Midsummer Night's Dream." Finally, the last Philharmonic is on the
+11th, where I am to conduct some piece.
+
+I must finish the arrangement for Cramer, and some "Lieder" for the
+piano, also some songs with English words, besides some German ones
+for myself, for after all it is spring, and the lilacs are in
+bloom. Last Monday "The Hebrides" was given for the first time in
+the Philharmonic; it went admirably, and sounded very quaint among
+a variety of Rossini pieces. The audience received both me and my
+work with extreme kindness. This evening is Mr. Vaughan's concert;
+but I am sure you must be quite sick of hearing of so many
+concerts, so I conclude.
+
+
+     Norwood, Surrey, May 25th.
+
+These are hard times, and many are laid low![35] May it please God
+to preserve you all to me, and to grant us a joyful meeting! You
+will receive this letter from the same villa whence I wrote to you
+three years ago last November, just before my return.
+
+  [35] He had received the news of Zelter's death.
+
+I have now come out here for a few days to rest, and to collect my
+thoughts, just as I did at that time, on account of my health. All
+is unchanged here; my room is precisely the same; even the music in
+the old cupboard stands exactly in the same spot; the people are
+quite as considerate, and quiet, and attentive as formerly, and the
+three years have passed over both them and their house, as
+peacefully as if half the world had not been uprooted during that
+period.
+
+It is pleasant to see; the only difference is, that we have now gay
+spring, and apple-blossoms, and lilacs, and all kinds of flowers,
+whereas at that time we had autumn, with its fogs and blazing
+fires; but how much is now gone for ever, that we then still had;
+this gives much food for thought. Just as at that time I wrote to
+you saying little, save "farewell till we meet;" so must it be
+to-day also. It will indeed be a graver meeting, and I bring no
+"Liederspiel" with me composed in this room, as the former one was,
+but God grant I may only find you all well.
+
+You write, dear Fanny, that I ought especially to hasten my return,
+in order if possible to secure the situation in the Academy; but
+this I do not choose to do. I shall return as soon as I can,
+because my father writes that he wishes me to do so; I therefore
+intend to set off in about a fortnight, but solely for _that_
+reason; the other motive would rather tend to detain me here,
+indeed, if any motive could do so; for I will in no manner solicit
+the situation.
+
+When I reminded my father formerly of the proposal of the Director,
+the reason which he then advanced against it, seemed to me
+perfectly just; he said that he regarded this place rather as a
+sinecure for more advanced years, "when the Academy might be
+resorted to as a harbour of refuge." For the next few years I
+aspire as little to _this_ as to any other situation; my purpose is
+to live by the fruits of my labours, just as I do here, and my
+resolve is to be independent. Considering the peculiar position of
+the Academy, the small salary they give, and the great influence
+they might exercise, the place of Director seems to me only an
+honourable post, which I have no desire to _sue_ for. If they were
+to offer it to me, I would accept it, because I promised formerly
+to do so; but only for a settled time and on certain conditions;
+and if they do not intend to offer it, then my presence can be of
+no possible use. I do not certainly require to convince them of my
+capability for the office, and I neither will, nor can, intrigue.
+Besides, for the reasons I mentioned in a previous letter, I cannot
+leave England till after the 11th, and the affair will no doubt be
+decided before that time.
+
+I beg that no step of any kind may be taken on my behalf, except
+_that_ which my father mentioned concerning my immediate return;
+but nothing in the smallest degree approaching to solicitation; and
+when they do make their choice, I only hope that they may find a
+man who will perform his duties with as much zeal as old Zelter.
+
+I received the intelligence in the morning just as I was going to
+write to him; then came a rehearsal of my new piece for the piano,
+with its wild gaiety, and when the musicians were applauding and
+complimenting me, I could not help feeling strongly, that I was
+indeed in a foreign land. I then came here, where I found both men
+and places unchanged; but Hauser unexpectedly arrived, and we fell
+into each other's arms, and recalled the happy days we had enjoyed
+together in South Germany the previous autumn, and all that has
+passed away for ever, during the last six months. Your mournful
+news was always present to me in its sad reality--so this is the
+manner in which I have spent the last few days here. Forgive me for
+not being able to write properly to-day. I go to town this evening
+to play, and also to-morrow, Sunday, and Monday.
+
+I have now a favour to ask of you, dear Father, in reference to the
+cantatas of Sebastian Bach, which Zelter possessed. If you can
+possibly prevent their being disposed of before my return, pray do
+so, for I am most anxious at any price to see the entire collection
+before it is dispersed.
+
+I might have told you of many agreeable things that have occurred
+to me during the last few weeks, for every day brings me fresh
+proofs that the people like me, and are glad to associate with me;
+which is gratifying, and makes my life here easy and pleasant; but
+to-day I really cannot. Perhaps in my next letter my spirits may be
+sufficiently restored, to return to my usual narrative style.
+
+Many remembrances from the Moscheles; they are excellent people,
+and after so long an interval, it is most cheering once more to
+meet an artist, who is not a victim to envy, jealousy, or miserable
+egotism. He makes continued and steady progress in his art.
+
+The warm sun is shining out-of-doors, so I shall now go down into
+the garden, to perform some gymnastics there, and to smell the
+lilacs; this will show you that I am well.
+
+
+     London, June 1st.
+
+On the day that I received the news of Zelter's death, I thought
+that I should have had a serious illness, and indeed during the
+whole of the ensuing week I could not shake off this feeling. My
+manifold engagements however have now diverted my thoughts, and
+brought me to myself, or rather out of myself. I am well again, and
+very busy.
+
+First of all I must thank you, dear Father, for your kind letter.
+It is in a great measure already answered by my previous one, but I
+will now repeat why I decline sending any application to the
+committee.
+
+In the first place, I quite agree with your former opinion, that
+this situation in the Academy is not desirable at the outset of my
+career; indeed I could only accept it for a certain time, and under
+particular conditions, and even then, solely to perform my
+previous promise. If I solicit it, I am bound to accept the place,
+as they choose to give it, and to comply with their conditions as
+to salary, duties, etc., though I do not as yet even know what
+these are.
+
+In the second place, the reason they gave you why I should write,
+seems to me neither a true nor a straightforward one. They say they
+wish to be certain I will accept of it, and that on this account I
+must enroll myself among the candidates; but they _offered_ it to
+me three years ago, and Lichtenstein said they did so to ascertain
+if I would take it, and begged me to give a distinct answer on this
+point; at that time I said _yes_, that I was willing to carry it
+on, along with Rungenhagen. I am not sure that I should think the
+same now; but as I said so then, I can no longer draw back, and
+must keep my word. It is not necessary to repeat my assent, for as
+I once gave it, so it must remain; still less can I do so when I
+should have to _offer_ myself to them for the post they once
+_offered to me_. If they were disposed to adhere to their former
+offer, they would not require me to take a step which they took
+themselves three years ago; on the contrary, they would remember
+the assent I then gave, for they must know that I am incapable of
+breaking such a promise.
+
+A confirmation of my former promise is therefore quite unnecessary,
+and if they intend to appoint another to the situation, my letter
+would not prevent their doing so. I must further refer to my letter
+from Paris, in which I told you that I wished to return to Berlin
+in the spring, as it was the only city in Germany with which I was
+still unacquainted.
+
+This is my well-weighed purpose; I do not know how I shall get on
+in Berlin, or whether I shall be able to remain there,--that is,
+whether I shall be able to enjoy the same facilities for work, and
+progress, that are offered to me in other places. The only house
+that I know in Berlin is our own, and I feel certain I shall be
+quite happy there; but I must also be in a position to be actively
+employed, and this I shall discover when I return. I hope that all
+will come to pass as I wish, for of course the spot where _you_
+live must be always dearest to me; but till I know this to a
+certainty I do not wish to fetter myself by any situation.
+
+I conclude, because I have a vast deal to do to enable me to set
+off after the next Philharmonic. I must publish several pieces
+before I go; I receive numbers of commissions on all sides, and
+some so gratifying that I exceedingly regret not being able to set
+to work at once.
+
+Among others, I this morning got a note from a publisher, who
+wishes me to give him the score of two grand pieces of sacred
+music, for morning and evening service; you may imagine how much I
+am pleased with this proposal, and immediately on my arrival in the
+Leipziger Strasse I intend to begin them.
+
+"The Hebrides" I mean to reserve for a time for myself, before
+arranging it as a duet; but my new rondo is in hand, and I must
+finish those everlasting "Lieder" for the piano, as well as
+various other arrangements, and probably the Concerto. I played it
+last Monday in the Philharmonic, and I think I never in my life had
+such success. The audience were crazy with delight, and declared it
+was my best work.
+
+I am now going to Moscheles' concert, to conduct there, and to play
+Mozart's Concerto, in which I have inserted two long cadences for
+each of us.
+
+        FELIX.
+
+
+THE END
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters of Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy
+from Italy and Switzerland, by Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy
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