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diff --git a/39334.txt b/39334.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2dcf68e --- /dev/null +++ b/39334.txt @@ -0,0 +1,13428 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Blazing The Way, by Emily Inez Denny + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license + + +Title: Blazing The Way + True Stories, Songs and Sketches of Puget Sound + +Author: Emily Inez Denny + +Release Date: April 1, 2012 [EBook #39334] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLAZING THE WAY *** + + + + +Produced by Mark C. Orton, Pat McCoy, Bruce Jones and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: FORT DECATUR, JANUARY 26, 1856] + + + + + BLAZING THE WAY + + OR + + TRUE STORIES, SONGS AND SKETCHES + OF PUGET SOUND AND OTHER + PIONEERS + + + BY + EMILY INEZ DENNY + + WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR AND + FROM AUTHENTIC PHOTOGRAPHS + + SEATTLE: + RAINIER PRINTING COMPANY, Inc. + 1909 + + + + + Copyright 1899 + By + EMILY INEZ DENNY + + + Published 1909 + + + + + To My Dear Father and Mother, + Faithful Friends and Counselors, + Whose pioneer life I shared, + This book is affectionately dedicated + By THE AUTHOR + + + + + A star stood large and white awest, + Then Time uprose and testified; + They push'd the mailed wood aside, + They toss'd the forest like a toy, + That great forgotten race of men, + The boldest band that yet has been + Together since the siege of Troy, + And followed it and found their rest. + + --Miller + + + + +PREFACE + + + + +BLAZING THE WAY. + + +In the early days when a hunter, explorer or settler essayed to tread +the mysterious depths of the unknown forest of Puget Sound, he took care +to "blaze the way." At brief intervals he stopped to cut with his sharp +woodman's ax a generous chip from the rough bark of fir, hemlock or +cedar tree, leaving the yellow inner bark or wood exposed, thereby +providing a perfect guide by which he retraced his steps to the canoe or +cabin. As the initial stroke it may well be emblematical of the +beginnings of things in the great Northwest. + +I do not feel moved to apologize for this book; I have gathered the +fragments within my reach; such or similar works are needed to set forth +the life, character and movement of the early days on Puget Sound. The +importance of the service of the Pioneers is as yet dimly perceived; +what the Pilgrim Fathers were to New England, the Pioneers were to the +Pacific Coast, to the "nations yet to be," who, following in their +footsteps, shall people the wilds with teeming cities, a "human sea," +bearing on its bosom argosies of priceless worth. + +It does contain some items and incidents not generally known or +heretofore published. I hope others may be provoked to record their +pioneer experiences. + +I have had exceptional opportunities in listening to the thrice-told +tales of parents and friends who had crossed the plains, as well as +personal recollections of experiences and observation during a residence +of over fifty years in the Northwest, acknowledging also the good +fortune of having been one of the first white children born on Puget +Sound. + +Every old pioneer has a store of memories of adventures and narrow +escapes, hardships bravely endured, fresh pleasures enjoyed, rude but +genial merrymakings, of all the fascinating incidents that made up the +wonder-life of long ago. + +Chronology is only a row of hooks to hang the garments of the past upon, +else they may fall together in a confused heap. + +Not having a full line of such supports on which to hang the weaving of +my thoughts--I simply overturn my Indian basket of chips picked up after +"Blazing the Way," they being merely bits of beginnings in the +Northwest. + + E. I. DENNY. + + * * * * * + + NOTE--The poem referred to on page 144 will appear in another + work.--AUTHOR. + + + + +INDEX + + + PART I--THE GREAT MARCH + + CHAPTER PAGE + + I. CROSSING THE PLAINS 17 + II. DOWN THE COLUMBIA IN '51 34 + III. THE SETTLEMENT AT ALKI 41 + IV. FOUNDING OF SEATTLE AND INDIAN WAR 63 + V. THE MURDER OF McCORMICK 96 + VI. KILLING COUGARS 105 + VII. PIONEER CHILD LIFE 113 + VIII. MARCHING EXPERIENCES OF ESTHER + CHAMBERS 151 + IX. AN OLYMPIA WOMAN'S TRIP ACROSS THE + PLAINS IN 1851 168 + X. CAPTAIN HENRY ROEDER ON THE TRAIL 177 + + + PART II--MEN, WOMEN AND ADVENTURES + + I. SONG OF THE PIONEERS 182 + II. BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES AND SKETCHES, + JOHN DENNY, SARAH LATIMER DENNY 186 + III. DAVID THOMAS DENNY 203 + IV. THE FIRST WEDDING ON ELLIOT BAY 257 + V. LOUISA BOREN DENNY 272 + V_a_ MADGE DECATUR DENNY 288 + V_b_ ANNA LOUISA DENNY 294 + V_c_ WILLIAM RICHARD BOREN 300 + VI. ARTHUR A. DENNY, MARY A. DENNY 305 + VII. HENRY VAN ASSELT OF DUWAMISH 320 + VIII. THOMAS MERCER 329 + IX. DR. HENRY A. SMITH, THE BRILLIANT + WRITER 344 + X. FAMOUS INDIAN CHIEFS 358 + + + PART III--INDIAN LIFE AND SETTLERS' + BEGINNINGS + + I. SAVAGE DEEDS OF SAVAGE MEN 391 + II. PIONEER JOKES AND ANECDOTES 415 + III. TRAILS OF COMMERCE 436 + IV. BUILDING OF THE TERRITORIAL UNIVERSITY 452 + V. A CHEHALIS LETTER, PENNED IN '52 467 + VI. SOME PIONEERS OF PORT TOWNSEND 479 + VII. PERSONNEL OF THE PIONEER ARMY 489 + + + + +SYNOPSIS OF INCIDENTS. + + + Part I. + Page + + Chapter I--Crossing the Plains--Names of the Denny Company 20 + Attacked by Indians at American Falls 27 + Chapter II--A Narrow Escape from Going Over the Cascades 36 + About to Sink in the Cold Waters of the Columbia 38 + Chapter III--Tramping a Long Trail 42 + Landing of J. N. Low, D. T. Denny and Lee + Terry at Sgwudux (West Seattle) 43 + Exploring the Duwampsh River 44 + Names of Party from "Exact" 50 + Chapter IV--A Visit from Wolves 66 + A Flight to Fort Decatur 76 + Battle of Seattle 80 + Story of John I. King's Capture 91 + Chapter V--A Tragedy of the Trail 98 + Chapter VI--A Hair-raising Hunt for a Cougar 107 + Chapter VII--Seeking the Dead Among the Living 121 + The Strawberry of Memory 126 + Three Little Girls and a Pioneer "Fourth" 131 + A Rescue from Drowning 138 + Chapter VIII--Frontier Experiences 151 + Chapter IX--Placating Indians on the Plains 171 + Chapter X--Capt. Roeder's Meeting with the Bandit Joaquin 180 + + + Part II. + + Chapter I--Poem--Song of the Pioneers 182 + Chapter II--A Notable Pioneer Reformer, John Denny 188 + Chapter III--A Tireless Foundation Builder, David + Thomas Denny 203 + Threats from Anti-Chinese Agitators 211 + His Own Account of Arrival on Elliott Bay 214 + Surrounded by Indians 243 + Trials and Triumph 256 + Chapter IV--A Lively Celebration of the First Wedding + on Elliott Bay 258 + Story of a Bear Hunt 268 + Chapter V--Indian Courtship 275 + On the Day of Battle 276 + Chapter VI--Discovery of Shilshole or Salmon Bay 310 + An Escape from Murderous Savages 313 + Defense with a Hatchet 316 + Chapter VII--Immune Because of Indian Superstition 323 + Chapter VIII--Saving an Auburn-haired Girl 341 + Chapter IX--A Grand Description of a Vast Forest Fire 350 + Poem--"The Mortgage" 352 + Poem--"Pacific's Pioneers" 354 + Chapter X--Hanging of Leschi 370 + Poem--"The Chief's Reply" 388 + + + Part III. + + Chapter I--Shooting of Lachuse 392 + The Fight at Fort Nesqually 395 + Abbie Casto's Fate 409 + Chapter II--How the Old Shell Blew Up a Stump + and Cautioned Mr. Horton 423 + Mr. Beaty and the Cheese 425 + Chapter III--Poem--"The Beaver's Requiem" 436 + Chapter IV--Poem--"The Voice of the Old University Bell" 459 + Chapter V--Charming Description of Early Days on + the Chehalis 467 + Chapter VI--Founding of Port Townsend 481 + Chapter VII--A Number of Noted Names 489 + Poem--"Hail, and Farewell" 503 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + I Fort Decatur, Jan. 26, 1856 Frontispiece + II Chips Picked Up Facing page 17 + III Bargaining with Indians at Alki " " 49 + IV Indian Canoes Sailing with North + Wind " " 81 + V Log Cabin in the Swale " " 105 + VI Where We Wandered Long Ago " " 113 + VII A Visit from Our Tillicum " " 145 + VIII Sarah, John and Loretta Denny " " 193 + IX David Thomas Denny " " 209 + X Sons of L. B. and D. T. Denny " " 241 + XI Louisa B. Denny " " 257 + XII A Flower Garden Planted by L. + B. Denny " " 273 + XIII Daughters of D. T. and L. B. + Denny " " 289 + XIV Erythronium of Lake Union " " 337 + XV Types of Indian Houses " " 369 + XVI Last Voyage of the Lumei " " 385 + XVII A Few Artifacts of P. S. Indians " " 401 + XVIII Ship Belle Isle " " 481 + XIX Rev. Blaine, C. D. and Wm. R. + Boren " " 489 + XX Mrs. L. C. Low " " 493 + + + + +BLAZING THE WAY + + + + +PART I.--THE GREAT MARCH + + + + +CHAPTER I + +CROSSING THE PLAINS. + + With Faith's clear eye we saw afar + In western sky our empire's star, + And strong of heart and brave of soul, + We marched and marched to reach the goal. + Unrolled a scroll, the great, gray plains, + And traced thereon our wagon trains; + Our blazing campfires marked the road + As night succeeding night they glowed. + + --Song of the Pioneers. + + +The noble army of courageous, enduring, persistent, progressive pioneers +who from time to time were found threading their way across the +illimitable wilderness, forty or fifty years ago, in detached companies, +often unknown and unknowing each other, have proved conclusively that an +age of marvelous heroism is but recently past. + +[Illustration: "CHIPS PICKED UP AFTER BLAZING THE WAY"] + +The knowledge, foresight, faith and force exhibited by many of these +daring men and women proclaimed them endowed with the genius of +conquerors. + +The merely physical aspect of the undertaking is overpowering. To +transport themselves and their effects in slow and toilsome ways, +through hundreds of miles of weary wilderness, uninhabited except by +foes, over beetling mountain ranges, across swift and dangerous rivers, +through waterless deserts, in the shadow of continual dread, required a +fortitude and staying power seldom equaled in the history of human +effort. + +But above and beyond all this, they carried the profound convictions of +Christian men and women, of patriots and martyrs. They battled with the +forces of Nature and implacable enemies; they found, too, that their +moral battles must be openly fought year after year, often in the face +of riotous disregard of the laws of God and man. Arrived at their +journey's end, they planted the youngest scions of the Tree of Liberty; +they founded churches and schools, carefully keeping the traditions of +civilization, yet in many things finding greater and truer freedom than +they had left behind. + +The noblest of epics, masterpieces of painting, stupendous operas or the +grandest spectacular drama could but meagerly or feebly express the +characters, experiences and environment of those who crossed the plains +for the Pacific slope in the midst of the nineteenth century. + + "A mighty nation moving west, + With all its steely sinews set + Against the living forests. Hear + The shouts, the shots of pioneers! + The rended forests, rolling wheels, + As if some half-checked army reels, + Recoils, redoubles, comes again, + Loud-sounding like a hurricane." + + --Joaquin Miller. + +It is my intention to speak more especially of one little company who +were destined to take a prominent part in the laying of foundations in +the State of Washington. + +Previous to 1850, glowing accounts of the fertility, mildness, beauty +and general desirability of Oregon Territory, which then included +Washington, reached the former friends and acquaintances of Farley +Pierce, Liberty Wallace, the Rudolphs and others who wrote letters +concerning this favored land. Added to the impression made thereby, the +perusal of Fremont's travels, the desire for a change of climate from +the rigorous one of Illinois, the possession of a pioneering spirit and +the resolution was taken, "To the far Pacific Coast we will go;" acting +upon it, they took their places in the great movement having for its +watchword, "Westward Ho!" + +John Denny, a Kentuckian by birth, a pioneer of Indiana and Illinois, +whose record as a soldier of 1812, a legislator in company and fraternal +relations with Lincoln, Baker, Gates and Trumbull, distinguished him +for the most admirable qualities, was the leading spirit; his wife, +Sarah Latimer Denny, a Tennessean, thrifty, wise, faithful and +far-seeing, who had for many widowed years previous to her marriage to +John Denny, wrought out success in making a home and educating her three +children in Illinois, was a fit leader of pioneer women. + +These, with their grown-up sons and daughters, children and +grandchildren, began the great journey across the plains, starting from +Cherry Grove, Knox County, Illinois, on April 10th, 1851. Four "prairie +schooners," as the canvas-covered wagons were called, three of them +drawn by four-horse teams, one with a single span, a few saddle horses +and two faithful watchdogs, whose value is well known to those who have +traveled the wilds, made up the train. + +The names of these brave-hearted ones, ready to dare and endure all, are +as follows: + +John Denny, Sarah Latimer Denny and their little daughter, Loretta; A. +A. Denny, Mary A. Denny and their two children, Catherine and Lenora; C. +D. Boren, Mrs. Boren and their daughter, Gertrude; the only unmarried +woman, Miss Louisa Boren, sister of Mrs. A. A. Denny and C. D. Boren; C. +Crawford and family; four unmarried sons of John Denny, D. T. Denny, +James, Samuel and Wiley Denny. + +The wrench of parting with friends made a deep and lasting wound; no +doubt every old pioneer of the Pacific Coast can recall the anguish of +that parting, whose scars the healing years have never effaced. + +The route followed by our pioneers was the old emigrant road along the +north side of the Platte River, down the Columbia and up the Willamette +to Portland, Oregon Territory, which they afterwards left for their +ultimate destination, Puget Sound, where they found Nature so bountiful, +a climate so moderate and their surroundings so ennobling that I have +often heard them say they had no wish to return to dwell in the country +from whence they came. + +Past the last sign of civilization, the Mormon town of Kanesville, a +mile or two east of the Missouri River, the prairie schooners were +fairly out at sea. The great Missouri was crossed at Council Bluffs by +ferryboat on the 5th of May. The site of the now populous city of Omaha +was an untrodden waste. From thence they followed the beaten track of +the many who had preceded them to California and Oregon. + +Hundreds of wagons had ground their way over the long road before them, +and beside this road stretched the narrower beaten track of the +ox-drivers. + +On the Platte, shortly after crossing the Missouri, a violent +thunderstorm with sheets of rain fell upon them at night, blowing down +their tents and saturating their belongings, thereby causing much +discomfort and inconvenience. Of necessity the following day was spent +in drying out the whole equipment. + +It served as a robust initiation in roughing it; up to that time they +had carefully dressed in white night robes and lay down in neatly made +beds, but many a night after this storm were glad to rest in the easiest +way possible, when worn by travel and too utterly weary of the long +day's heat and dust, with grinding and bumping of wheels, to think of +the niceties of dainty living. + +For a time spring smiled on all the land; along the Platte the prairies +stretched away on either hand, delightfully green and fresh, on the +horizon lay fleecy white clouds, islands of vapor in the ethereal azure +sea above; but summer came on apace and the landscape became brown and +parched. + +The second day west of the Missouri our train fell in with a long line +of eighteen wagons drawn by horses, and fraternizing with the occupants, +joined in one company. This new company elected John Denny as Captain. +It did not prove a harmonious combination, however; discord arose, and +nowhere does it seem to arise so easily as in camp. There was +disagreement about standing guard; fault was found with the Captain and +another was elected, but with no better results. Our pioneers found it +convenient and far pleasanter to paddle their own canoes, or rather +prairie schooners, and so left the contentious ones behind. + +Long days of travel followed over the monotonous expanse of prairie, +each with scarcely varying incidents, toils and dangers. The stir of +starting in the morning, the morning forward movement, the halt for the +noonday meal, cooked over a fire of buffalo chips, and the long, weary +afternoon of heat and dust whose passing brought the welcome night, +marked the journey through the treeless region. + +At one of the noonings, the hopes of the party in a gastronomic line +were woefully disappointed. A pailful of choice home-dried peaches, +cooked with much care, had been set on a wagon tongue to cool and some +unlucky movement precipitated the whole luscious, juicy mass into the +sand below. It was an occurrence to make the visage lengthen, so far, +far distant were the like of them from the hungry travelers. + +Fuel was scarce a large part of the way until west of Fort Laramie, the +pitch pine in the Black Hills made such fires as delight the hearts of +campers. In a stretch of two hundred miles but one tree was seen, a lone +elm by the river Platte, which was finally cut down and the limbs used +for firewood. When near this tree, the train camped over Sunday, and our +party first saw buffaloes, a band of perhaps twenty. D. T. Denny and C. +D. Boren of the party went hunting in the hills three miles from the +camp but other hunters had been among them and scattered the band, +killing only one or two; however they generously divided the meat with +the new arrivals. Our two good hunters determined to get one if possible +and tried stalking a shaggy-maned beast that was separated from the +herd, a half mile from their horses left picketed on the grassy plain. +Shots were fired at him without effect and he ran away unhurt, +fortunately for himself as well as his pursuers. One of the hunters, D. +T. Denny, said it might have been a very serious matter for them to have +been charged by a wounded buffalo out on the treeless prairie where a +man had nothing to dodge behind but his own shadow. + +On the prairie before they reached Fort Laramie a blinding hailstorm +pelted the travelers. + +D. T. Denny, who was driving a four-horse team in the teeth of the +storm, relates that the poor animals were quite restive, no doubt +suffering much from their shelterless condition. They had been well +provided for as to food; their drivers carried corn which lasted for two +hundred miles. The rich grass of five hundred miles of prairie afforded +luxurious living beyond this, and everywhere along the streams where +camp was made there was an abundance of fresh herbage to be found. + +Many lonely graves were seen, graves of pioneers, with hopes as high, +mayhap, as any, but who pitched their silent tents in the wilderness to +await the Judgment Day. + +A deep solemnity fell upon the living as the train wound along, where on +the side of a mountain was a lone grave heaped up with stones to protect +it from the ravages of wolves. Tall pines stood around it and grass and +flowers adorned it with nature's broidery. Several joined in singing an +old song beginning + + "I came to the place + Where the white pilgrim lay, + And pensively stood by his tomb, + When in a low whisper I heard something say, + 'How sweetly I sleep here alone.'" + +Echoed only by the rustling of the boughs of scattered pines, moving +gently in the wind. + +As they approached the upheaved mountainous country, lively interest, a +keen delight in the novelty of their surroundings, and surprise at +unexpected features were aroused in the minds of the travelers. + +A thoughtful one has said that the weird beauty of the Wind River +Mountains impressed her deeply, their image has never left her memory +and if she were an artist she could faithfully represent them on canvas. + +A surprise to the former prairie dwellers was the vast extent of the +mountains, their imaginations having projected the sort of mountain +range that is quite rare, a single unbroken ridge traversed by climbing +up one side and going down the other! But they found this process must +be repeated an indefinite number of times and over such roughness as +their imaginations had never even suggested. + +What grinding, heaving and bumping over huge boulders! What shouting and +urging of animals, what weary hours of tortured endurance dragged along! +One of them remembers, too, perhaps vaguely, the suffering induced by an +attack of the mysterious mountain fever. + +The desert also imposed its tax of misery. Only at night could the +desert be safely crossed. Starting at four o'clock in the afternoon they +traveled all the following night over an arid, desolate region, the +Green River desert, thirty miles, a strange journey in the dimness of a +summer night with only the star-lamps overhead. In sight of the river, +the animals made a rush for the water and ran in to drink, taking the +wagons with them. + +Often the names of the streams crossed were indicative of their +character, suggestive of adventure or descriptive of their surroundings. +Thus "Sweetwater" speaks eloquently of the refreshing draughts that +slaked the thirst in contrast with the alkaline waters that were bitter; +Burnt River flowed past the blackened remains of an ancient forest and +Bear River may have been named for the ponderous game secured by a lucky +hunter. + +By July of 1851 the train reached Old Fort Hall, composed of a stockade +and log houses, situated on the Snake River, whose flood set toward the +long-sought Pacific shore. + +While camped about a mile from the fort the Superintendent wrote for +them directions for camping places where wood and water could be +obtained, extending over the whole distance from Fort Hall to the Dalles +of the Columbia River. He told James Denny, brother of D. T. Denny, that +if they met Indians they must on no account stop at their call, saying +that the Indians of that vicinity were renegade Shoshones and horse +thieves. + +On the morning of the fifth of July an old Indian visited the camp, but +no significance was attached to the incident, and all were soon moving +quietly along in sight of the Snake River; the road lay on the south +side of the river, which is there about two hundred yards wide. An +encampment of Indians was observed, on the north side of the river, as +they wound along by the American Falls, but no premonition of danger was +felt, on the contrary, they were absorbed in the contemplation of the +falls and basin below. Dark objects were seen to be moving on the +surface of the wide pool and all supposed them to be ducks disporting +themselves after the manner of harmless water fowl generally. What was +their astonishment to behold them swiftly and simultaneously approach +the river bank, spring out of the water and reveal themselves full +grown savages! + +With guns and garments, but few of the latter probably, on their heads, +they swam across and climbed up the bank to the level of the sage brush +plain. The leader, attired in a plug hat and long, black overcoat +flapping about his sinewy limbs, gun in hand, advanced toward the train +calling out, "How-de-do! How-de-do! Stop! Stop!" twice repeating the +words. The Captain, Grandfather John Denny, answered "Go back," +emphasizing the order by vigorous gestures. Mindful of the friendly +caution of the Superintendent at Fort Hall, the train moved on. The +gentleman of the plains retired to his band, who dodged back behind the +sagebrush and began firing at the train. One bullet threw up the dust +under the horse ridden by one of the company. The frightened women and +children huddled down as low as possible in the bottoms of the wagons, +expecting the shots to penetrate the canvas walls of their moving +houses. In the last wagon, in the most exposed position, one of the +mothers sat pale and trembling like an aspen leaf; the fate of the young +sister and two little daughters in the event of capture, beside the +danger of her own immediate death were too dreadful to contemplate. In +their extremity one said, "O, why don't they hurry! If I were driving I +would lay on the lash!" + +When the Indians found that their shots took no effect, they changed +their tactics and ran down along the margin of the river under shelter +of the bank, to head off the train at a point where it must go down one +hill and up another. There were seven men with five rifles and two +rifle-pistols, but these would have been of little avail if the teams +had been disabled. D. T. Denny drove the forward wagon, having one rifle +and the pistols; three of the men were not armed. + +All understood the maneuver of the Indians and were anxious to hurry the +teams unless it was Captain John Denny, who was an old soldier and may +have preferred to fight. + +Sarah Denny, his wife, looked out and saw the Indians going down the +river; no doubt she urged him to whip up. The order was given and after +moments that seemed hours, down the long hill they rushed pell-mell, +without lock or brake, the prairie schooners tossing like their +namesakes on a stormy sea. What a breathless, panting, nightmare it +seemed! If an axle had broken or a linchpin loosened the race would have +been lost. But on, madly careening past the canyon where the Indians +intended to intercept them, tearing up the opposite hill with desperate +energy, expecting every moment to hear the blood-curdling warwhoop, nor +did they slacken their speed to the usual pace for the remainder of the +day. As night approached, the welcome light of a campfire, that of J. N. +Low's company, induced them to stop. This camp was on a level near a +bluff; a narrow deep stream flowed by into the Snake River not far +away. The cattle were corraled, with the wagons in a circle and a fire +of brushwood built in the center. + +Around the Denny company's campfire, the women who prepared the evening +meal were in momentary fear of receiving a shot from an ambushed foe, +lit as they were against the darkness, but happily their fears were not +realized. Weary as the drivers were, guards were posted and watched all +night. The dogs belonging to the train were doubtless a considerable +protection, as they would have given the alarm had the enemy approached. + +One of the women went down to the brook the next morning to get water +for the camp and saw the tracks of Indian ponies in the dust on the +opposite side of the stream. Evidently they had followed the train to +that point, but feared to attack the united forces of the two camps. + +After this race for life the men stood guard every night; one of them, +D. T. Denny, was on duty one-half of every other night and alternately +slept on the ground under one of the wagons. + +This was done until they reached the Cayuse country. On Burnt River they +met thirty warriors, the advance guard of their tribe who were moving, +women, children, drags and dogs. The Indians were friendly and +cheeringly announced "Heap sleep now; we are _good_ Indians." + +The Denny and Low trains were well pleased to join their forces and +traveled as one company until they reached their journey's end. + +The day after the Indian attack, friendly visits were made and Mrs. J. +N. Low recalls that she saw two women of Denny's company frying cakes +and doughnuts over the campfire, while two others were well occupied +with the youngest of the travelers, who were infants. + +There were six men and two women in Low's company and when the two +companies joined they felt quite strong and traveled unmolested the +remainder of the way. + +An exchange of experiences brought out the fact that Low's company had +crossed the Missouri the third day of May and had traveled on the south +side of the Platte at the same time the Denny company made their way +along the north side of the same stream. + +At a tributary called Big Blue, as Mrs. Low relates, she observed the +clouds rolling up and admonished her husband to whip up or they would +not be able to cross for days if they delayed; they crossed, ascended +the bluffs where there was a semicircle of trees, loosed the cattle and +picketed the horses. By evening the storm reached them with lightning, +heavy thunder and great piles of hail. The next morning the water had +risen half way up tall trees. + +The Indians stole the lead horse of one of the four-horse teams and Mrs. +Low rode the other on a man's saddle. Many western equestriennes have +learned to be not too particular as to horse, habit or saddle and have +proven also the greater safety and convenience of cross-saddle riding. + +In the Black Hills while traveling along the crest of a high ridge, +where to get out of the road would have been disastrous, the train was +met by a band of Indians on ponies, who pressed up to the wagons in a +rather embarrassing way, bent apparently upon riding between and +separating the teams, but the drivers were too wise to permit this and +kept close together, without stopping to parley with them, and after +riding alongside for some distance, the designing but baffled redskins +withdrew. + +The presence of the native inhabitants sometimes proved a convenience; +especially was this true of the more peaceable tribes of the far west. +On the Umatilla River the travelers were glad to obtain the first fresh +vegetable since leaving the cultivated gardens and fields of their old +homes months before. One of the women traded a calico apron for green +peas, which were regarded as a great treat and much enjoyed. + +Farther on, as they neared the Columbia, Captain Low, who was riding +ahead of the train, met Indians with salmon, eager to purchase so fine a +fish and not wishing to stop the wagon, pulled off an overshirt over his +head and exchanged it for the piscatorial prize. + +The food that had sustained them on the long march was almost military +in its simplicity. Corn meal, flour, rice (a little, as it was not then +in common use), beans, bacon and dried fruits were the main dependence. +They could spend but little time hunting and fishing. On Bear River +"David" and "Louisa" each caught a trout, fine, speckled beauties. +"David" and the other hunters of the company also killed sage hens, +antelope and buffalo. + +After leaving the Missouri River they had no opportunity to buy anything +until they reached the Snake River, where they purchased some dried +salmon of the Indians. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +DOWN THE COLUMBIA IN '51. + + +After eighty days travel over one thousand seven hundred sixty-five +miles of road these weary pilgrims reached the mighty river of the West, +the vast Columbia. + +At The Dalles, the road Across the Plains was finished, from thence the +great waterways would lead them to their journey's end. + +It was there the immigrants first feasted on the delicious river salmon, +fresh from the foaming waters. The Indians boiled theirs, making a +savory soup, the odor of which would almost have fed a hungry man; the +white people cooked goodly pieces in the trusty camp frying pan. + +Not then accustomed to such finny monsters, they found a comparison for +the huge cuts as like unto sides of pork, and a receptacle for the +giant's morsels in a seaworthy washingtub. However, high living will +pall unto the taste; one may really tire of an uninterrupted piscatorial +banquet, and one of the company, A. A. Denny, declared his intention of +introducing some variety in the bill of fare. "Plague take it," he said, +"I'm tired of salmon--I'm going to have some chicken." + +But alas! the gallinaceous fowl, roaming freely at large, had also +feasted frequently on fragments no longer fresh of the overplus of +salmon, and its flavor was indescribable, wholly impossible, as the +French say. It was "fishy" fish rather than fowl. + +At The Dalles the company divided, one party composed of a majority of +the men started over the mountains with the wagons and teams; the women +and children prepared to descend the river in boats. + +In one boat, seated on top of the "plunder" were Mrs. A. A. Denny and +two children, Miss Louisa Boren, Mrs. Low and four children and Mrs. +Boren and one child. The other boat was loaded in like manner with a +great variety of useful and necessary articles, heaped up, on top of +which sat several women and children, among whom were Mrs. Sarah Denny, +grandmother of the writer, and her little daughter, Loretta. + +A long summer day was spent in floating down the great canyon where the +majestic Columbia cleaves the Cascade Range in twain. The succeeding +night the first boat landed on an island in the river, and the voyagers +went ashore to camp. During the night one of the little girls, Gertrude +Boren, rolled out of her bed and narrowly escaped falling into the +hurrying stream; had she done so she must have certainly been lost, but +a kind Providence decreed otherwise. Re-embarking the following day, +gliding swiftly on the current, they traversed a considerable distance +and the second night approached the Cascades. + +Swifter and more turbulent, the rushing flood began to break in more +furious foam-wreaths on every jagged rock, impotently striving to stay +its onward rush to the limitless ocean. + +Sufficient light enabled the observing eye to perceive the writhing +surface of the angry waters, but the boatmen were stupified with drink! + +All day long they had passed a bottle about which contained a liquid +facetiously called "Blue Ruin" and near enough their ruin it proved. + +I have penned the following description which met with the approval of +one of the principal actors in what so nearly proved a tragedy: + +It was midnight on the mighty Columbia. A waning moon cast a glowworm +light on the dark, rushing river; all but one of the weary women and +tired little children were deeply sunken in sleep. The oars creaked and +dipped monotonously; the river sang louder and louder every boat's +length. Drunken, bloated faces leered foolishly and idiotically; they +admonished each other to "Keep 'er goin'." + +The solitary watcher stirred uneasily, looked at the long lines of foam +out in midstream and saw how fiercely the white waves contended, and far +swifter flew the waters than at any hour before. What was the meaning of +it? Hark! that humming, buzzing, hissing, nay, bellowing roar! The blood +flew to her brain and made her senses reel; they must be nearing the +last landing above the falls, the great Cascades of the Columbia. + +But the crew gave no heed. + +Suddenly she cried out sharply to her sleeping sister, "Mary! Mary! wake +up! we are nearing the falls, I hear them roar." + +"What is it, Liza?" she said sleepily. + +"O, wake up! we shall all be drowned, the men don't know what they are +doing." + +The rudely awakened sleepers seemed dazed and did not make much outcry, +but a strong young figure climbed over the mass of baggage and +confronting the drunken boatmen, plead, urged and besought them, if they +considered their own lives, or their helpless freight of humanity, to +make for the shore. + +"Oh, men," she pleaded, "don't you hear the falls, they roar louder now. +It will soon be too late, I beseech you turn the boat to shore. Look at +the rapids beyond us!" + +"Thar haint no danger, Miss, leastways not yet; wots all this fuss about +anyhow? No danger," answered one who was a little disturbed; the others +were almost too much stupified to understand her words and stood staring +at the bareheaded, black haired young woman as if she were an apparition +and were no more alarmed than if the warning were given as a curious +mechanical performance, having no reference to themselves. + +Repeating her request with greater earnestness, if possible, a man's +voice broke in saying, "I believe she is right, put in men quick, none +of us want to be drowned." + +Fortunately this penetrated their besotted minds and they put about in +time to save the lives of all on board, although they landed some +distance below the usual place. + +A little farther and they would have been past all human help. + +One of the boatmen cheerfully acknowledged the next day that if it +"hadn't been fur that purty girl they had a' gone over them falls, +shure." + +The other boat had a similar experience; it began to leak profusely +before they had gone very far and would soon have sunk, had not the +crew, who doubtless were sober, made all haste to land. + +My grandmother has often related to me how she clasped her little child +to her heart and resigned herself to a fate which seemed inevitable; +also of a Mrs. McCarthy, a passenger likewise, becoming greatly excited +and alternately swearing and praying until the danger was past. An +inconvenient but amusing feature was the soaked condition of the +"plunder" and the way the shore and shrubbery thereon were decorated +with "hiyu ictas," as the Chinook has it, hung out to dry. Finding it +impossible to proceed, this detachment returned and took the mountain +road. + +A tramway built by F. A. Chenoweth, around the great falls, afforded +transportation for the baggage of the narrowly saved first described. +There being no accommodations for passengers, the party walked the +tramroad; at the terminus they unloaded and stayed all night. No +"commodious and elegant" steamer awaited them, but an old brig, bound +for Portland, received them and their effects. + +Such variety of adventure had but recently crowded upon them that it was +almost fearfully they re-embarked. A. A. Denny observed to Captain Low, +"Look here, Low, they say women are scarce in Oregon and we had better +be careful of ours." Presumably they were, as both survive at the +present day. + +From a proud ranger of the dashing main, the old brig had come down to +be a carrier of salt salmon packed in barrels, and plunder of +immigrants; as for the luckless passengers, they accommodated themselves +as best they could. + +The small children were tied to the mast to keep them from falling +overboard, as there were no bulwarks. + +Beds were made below on the barrels before mentioned and the travel-worn +lay down, but not to rest; the mosquitos were a bloodthirsty throng and +the beds were likened unto a corduroy road. + +One of the women grumbled a little and an investigation proved that it +was, as her husband said, "Nothing but the tea-kettle" wedged in between +the barrels. + +Another lost a moccasin overboard and having worn out all her shoes on +the way, went with one stockinged foot until they turned up the +Willamette River, then went ashore to a farmhouse where she was so +fortunate as to find the owner of a new pair of shoes which she bought, +and was thus able to enter the "city" of Portland in appropriate +footgear. + +After such vicissitudes, dangers and anxiety, the little company were +glad to tarry in the embryo metropolis for a brief season; then, having +heard of fairer shores, the restless pioneers moved on. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +THE SETTLEMENT AT ALKI. + + +Midway between Port Townsend and Olympia, in full view looking west from +the city of Seattle, is a long tongue of land, washed by the sparkling +waves of Puget Sound, called Alki Point. It helps to make Elliott Bay a +beautiful land-locked harbor and is regarded with interest as being the +site of the first settlement by white people in King County in what was +then the Territory of Oregon. _Alki_ is an Indian word pronounced with +the accent on the first syllable, which is _al_ as in altitude; _ki_ is +spoken as _ky_ in silky. Alki means "by and by." + +It doth truly fret the soul of the old settler to see it printed and +hear it pronounced Al-ki. + +The first movement toward its occupancy was on this wise: A small +detachment of the advancing column of settlers, D. T. Denny and J. N. +Low, left Portland on the Willamette, on the 10th of September, 1851, +with two horses carrying provisions and camp outfit. + +These men walked to the Columbia River to round up a band of cattle +belonging to Low. The cattle were ferried over the river at Vancouver +and from thence driven over the old Hudson Bay Company's trail to the +mouth of Cowlitz River, a tributary of the Columbia, up the Cowlitz to +Warbass Landing and on to Ford's prairie, a wide and rich one, where the +band were left to graze on the luxuriant pasturage. + +On a steep, rocky trail along the Cowlitz River, Denny was following +along not far behind a big, yellow ox that was scrambling up, trying +vainly to get a firm foothold, when Low, foreseeing calamity, called to +him to "Look out!" Denny swerved a little from the path and at that +moment the animal lost its footing and came tumbling past them, rolling +over several times until it landed on a lower level, breaking off one of +its horns. Here was a narrow escape although not from a wild beast. They +could not then stop to secure the animal although it was restored to the +flock some time after. + +From Ford's prairie, although footsore and weary, they kept on their way +until Olympia was reached. It was a long tramp of perhaps two hundred +fifty miles, the exact distance could not be ascertained as the trail +was very winding. + +As described by one of our earliest historians, Olympia then consisted +of about a dozen one-story frame cabins, covered with split cedar +siding, well ventilated and healthy, and perhaps twice as many Indian +huts near the custom house, as Olympia was then the port of entry for +Puget Sound. + +The last mentioned structure afforded space on the ground floor for a +store, with a small room partitioned off for a postoffice. + +Our two pioneers found here Lee Terry, who had been engaged in loading a +sailing vessel with piles. He fell in with the two persistent +pedestrians and thus formed a triumvirate of conquerors of a new world. +The pioneers tarried not in the embryo city but pushed on farther down +the great Inland Sea. + +With Captain Fay and several others they embarked in an open boat, the +Captain, who owned the boat, intending to purchase salmon of the Indians +for the San Francisco market. Fay was an old whaling captain. He +afterwards married Mrs. Alexander, a widow of Whidby Island, and lived +there until his death. + +The little party spent their first night on the untrod shores of +Sgwudux, the Indian name of the promontory now occupied by West Seattle, +landing on the afternoon of September 25th, 1851, and sleeping that +night under the protecting boughs of a giant cedar tree. + +On the 26th, Low, Denny and Terry hired two young Indians of Chief +Sealth's (Seattle's) tillicum (people), who were camped near by, to take +them up the Duwampsh River in a canoe. Safely seated, the paddles dipped +and away they sped over the dancing waves. The weather was fair, the air +clear and a magnificent panorama spread around them. The whole +forest-clad encircling shores of Elliott Bay, untouched by fire or ax, +the tall evergreens thickly set in a dense mass to the water's edge +stood on every hand. The great white dome of Mount Rainier, 14,444 feet +high, before them, toward which they traveled; behind them, stretched +along the western horizon, Towiat or Olympics, a grand range of +snow-capped mountains whose foothills were covered with a continuous +forest. + +Entering the Duwampsh River and ascending for several miles they reached +the farther margin of a prairie where Low and Terry, having landed, set +out over an Indian trail through the woods, to look at the country, +while Denny followed on the river with the Indians. On and on they went +until Denny became anxious and fired off his gun but received neither +shot nor shout in answer. The day waned, it was growing dark, and as he +returned the narrow deep river took on a melancholy aspect, the great +forest was gloomy with unknown fears, and he was alone with strange, +wild men whose language was almost unintelligible. Nevertheless, he +landed and camped with them at a place known afterward as the Maple +Prairie. + +Morning of the 27th of September saw them paddling up the river again in +search of the other two explorers, whom they met coming down in a canoe. +They had kept on the trail until an Indian camp was reached at the +junction of Black and Duwampsh Rivers the night before. All returned to +Sgwudux, their starting point, to sleep under the cedar tree another +night. + +On the evening of the 27th a scow appeared and stopped near shore where +the water was quite deep. Two women on board conversed with Captain Fay +in Chinook, evidently quite proud of their knowledge of the trade jargon +of the Northwest. The scow moved on up Elliott Bay, entered Duwampsh +River and ascended it to the claim of L. M. Collins, where another +settlement sprang into existence. + +On the 28th the pioneers moved their camp to Alki Point or Sma-qua-mox +as it was named by the Indians. + +Captain Fay returned from down the Sound on the forenoon of the 28th. +That night, as they sat around the campfire, the pioneers talked of +their projected building and the idea of split stuff was advanced, when +Captain Fay remarked, "Well, I think a log house is better in an Indian +country." + +"Why, do you think there is any danger from the Indians?" he was quickly +asked. + +"Well," he replied, with a sly twinkle in his eye, "It would keep off +the stray bullets when they _poo mowich_" (shoot deer). + +These hints, coupled with subsequent experiences, awoke the anxiety of +D. T. Denny, who soon saw that there were swarms of savages to the +northward. Those near by were friendly, but what of those farther away? + +One foggy morning, when the distance was veiled in obscurity, the two +young white men, Lee and David, were startled to see a big canoe full +of wild Indians from away down the Sound thrust right out of the dense +fog; they landed and came ashore; the chief was a tall, brawny fellow +with a black beard. They were very impudent, crowding on them and trying +to get into the little brush tent, but Lee Terry stood in the door-way +leaning, or braced rather, against the tree upon which one end of the +frail habitation was fastened. The white men succeeded in avoiding +trouble but they felt inwardly rather "shaky" and were much relieved +when their rude visitors departed. These Indians were Skagits. + +The brush shelter referred to was made of boughs laid over a pole placed +in the crotch of another pole at one end, the other end being held by a +crotch fastened to a tree. In it was placed their scanty outfit and +supplies, and there they slept while the cabin was building. + +A townsite was located and named "New York," which no doubt killed the +place, exotics do not thrive in the Northwest; however, the name was +after changed to Alki. + +D. T. Denny and Lee Terry were left to take care of the "townsite" while +J. N. Low returned with Captain Fay to Olympia and footed it over the +trail again to the Columbia. He carried with him a letter to A. A. Denny +in Portland, remarkable as the first one penned by D. T. Denny on Puget +Sound, also in that upon it and the account given by Low depended the +decision of the rest of the party to settle on the shores of the great +Inland Sea. The substance of the letter was, "Come as soon as you can; +we have found a valley that will accommodate one thousand families," +referring to that of the Duwampsh River. + +These two, David T. Denny and Lee Terry, proceeded to lay the foundation +of the first cabin built on Elliott Bay and also the first in King +County. Their only tools were an ax and a hammer. The logs were too +heavy for the two white men to handle by themselves, and after they were +cut, passing Indians, muscular braves, were called on to assist, which +they willingly did, Mr. Denny giving them bread as a reward, the same +being an unaccustomed luxury to them. + +Several days after the foundation was laid, L. M. Collins and "Nesqually +John," an Indian, passed by the camp and rising cabin, driving oxen +along the beach, on their way to the claim selected by Collins on the +fertile banks of the Duwampsh River. + +When D. T. Denny and Lee Terry wrote their names on the first page of +our history, they could not fully realize the import of their every act, +yet no doubt they were visionary. Sleeping in their little brush tent at +night, what dreams may have visited them! Dreams, perhaps, of fleets of +white-winged ships with the commerce of many nations, of busy cities, of +throngs of people. Probably they set about chopping down the tall fir +trees in a cheerful mood, singing and whistling to the astonishment of +the pine squirrels and screech owls thus rudely disturbed. Their camp +equipage and arrangements were of the simplest and rudest and Mr. Denny +relates that Lee Terry would not cook so he did the cooking. He made a +"johnny cake" board of willow wood to bake bread upon. + +Fish and game were cooked before the camp fire. The only cooking vessel +was a tin pail. + +One evening Old Duwampsh Curley, whose Indian name was Su-whalth, with +several others, visited them and begged the privilege of camping near +by. Permission given, the Indians built a fire and proceeded to roast a +fine, fat duck transfixed on a sharp stick, placing a large clam shell +underneath to catch the gravy. When it was cooked to their minds, Curley +offered a choice cut to the white men, who thanked him but declined to +partake, saying that they had eaten their supper. + +Old Curley remembered it and in after years often reminded his white +friend of the incident, laughing slyly, "He! He! Boston man halo tikke +Siwash muck-a-muck" (white man do not like Indian's food), knowing +perfectly well the reason they would not accept the proffered dainty. + +J. N. Low had returned to Portland and Terry went to Olympia on the +return trip of Collins' scow, leaving David T. Denny alone with "New +York," the unfinished cabin and the Indians. For three weeks he was the +sole occupant and was ill a part of the time. + +Meanwhile, the families left behind had not been idle, but having made +up their minds that the end of their rainbow rested on Puget Sound, set +sail on the schooner "Exact," with others who intended to settle at +various points on the Inland Sea, likewise a party of gold hunters bound +for Queen Charlotte's Island. + +They were one week getting around Cape Flattery and up the Sound as far +as Alki Point. It was a rough introduction to the briny deep, as the +route covered the most tempestuous portion of the northwest coast. Well +acquainted as they were with prairie schooners, a schooner on the ocean +was another kind of craft and they enjoyed (?) their first experience of +seasickness crossing the bar of the Columbia. As may be easily imagined, +the fittings were not of the most luxurious kind and father, mother and +the children gathered socially around a washing tub to pay their +respects to Neptune. + +The gold miners, untouched by mal de mer, sang jolly songs and played +cards to amuse themselves. Their favorite ditty was the round "Three +Blind Mice" and they sang also many good old campmeeting songs. Poor +fellows! they were taken captive by the Indians of Queen Charlotte's +Island and kept in slavery a number of years until Victorians sent an +expedition for their rescue, paid their ransom and they were released. + +[Illustration: BARGAINING WITH INDIANS AT ALKI, 1851] + +On a dull November day, the thirteenth of the month, this company +landed on Alki Point. + +There were A. A. Denny, his wife, Mary Boren Denny, and their three +little children; Miss Louisa Boren, a younger sister of Mrs. Denny; C. +D. Boren and his family; J. N. Low, Mrs. Low and their four children and +Wm. N. Bell, Mrs. Sarah Bell and their family. + +John and Sarah Denny with their little daughter, Loretta, remained in +Oregon for several years and then removed to the Sound. + +On that eventful morning the lonely occupant of the unfinished cabin was +startled by an unusual sound, the rattling of an anchor chain, that of +the "Exact." Not feeling well he had the night before made some hot tea, +drank it, piled both his own and Lee Terry's blankets over him and slept +long and late. Hearing the noise before mentioned he rose hastily, +pushed aside the boards leaned up for a door and hurried out and down to +the beach to meet his friends who left the schooner in a long boat. It +was a gloomy, rainy time and the prospect for comfort was so poor that +the women, except the youngest who had no family cares, sat them down on +a log on the beach and wept bitter tears of discouragement. Not so with +Miss Louisa Boren, whose lively curiosity and love of nature led her to +examine everything she saw, the shells and pebbles of the beach, rank +shrubbery and rich evergreens that covered the bank, all so new and +interesting to the traveler from the far prairie country. + +But little time could be spent, however, indulging in the luxury of woe +as all were obliged to exert themselves to keep their effects from being +carried away by the incoming tide and forgot their sorrow in busily +carrying their goods upon the bank; food and shelter must be prepared, +and as ever before they met the difficulties courageously. + +The roof of the cabin was a little imperfect and one of the pioneer +children was rendered quite uncomfortable by the more or less regular +drip of the rain upon her and in after years recalled it saying that she +had forever after a prejudice against camping out. + +David T. Denny inadvertantly let fall the remark that he wished they had +not come. A. A. Denny, his brother, came to him, pale with agitation, +asking what he meant, and David attempted to allay his fears produced by +anxiety for his helpless family, by saying that the cabin was not +comfortable in its unfinished state. + +The deeper truth was that the Sound country was swarming with Indians. +Had the pioneers fully realized the risk they ran, nothing would have +induced them to remain; their very unconsciousness afterward proved a +safeguard. + +The rainy season was fairly under way and suitable shelter was an +absolute necessity. + +Soon other houses were built of round fir logs and split cedar boards. + +The householders brought quite a supply of provisions with them on the +"Exact;" among other things a barrel of dried apples, which proved +palatable and wholesome. Sea biscuit, known as hard-bread, and potato +bread made of mashed potatoes and baked in the oven were oft times +substitutes for or adjuncts of the customary loaf. + +There was very little game in the vicinity of the settlement and at +first they depended on the native hunters and fishermen who brought +toothsome wild ducks and venison, fresh fish and clams in abundance. + +One of the pioneers relates that some wily rascals betrayed them into +eating pieces of game which he afterward was convinced were cut from a +cougar. The Indians who brought it called it "mowich" (deer), but the +meat was of too light a color for either venison or bear, and the +conformation of the leg bones in the pieces resembled _felis_ rather +than _cervus_. + +But the roasts were savory, it was unseemly to make too severe an +examination and the food supply was not then so certain as to permit +indulgence in an over-nice discrimination. + +The inventive genius of the pioneer women found generous exercise in the +manufacture of new dishes. The variations were rung on fish, potatoes +and clams in a way to pamper epicures. Clams in fry, pie, chowder, soup, +stew, boil and bake--even pickled clams were found an agreeable relish. +The great variety of food fishes from the kingly salmon to the tiny +smelt, with crabs, oysters, etc., and their many modes of preparation, +were perpetually tempting to the pioneer appetite. + +The question of food was a serious one for the first year, as the +resources of this land of plenty were unknown at first, but the pushing +pioneer proved a ready and adaptable learner. + +Flour, butter, syrup, sugar, tea and coffee were brought at long +intervals over great distances by sailing vessels. By the time these +articles reached the settlement their value became considerable. + +Game, fish and potatoes were staple articles of diet and judging from +the stalwart frames of the Indians were safe and substantial. + +Trading with the Indians brought about some acquaintance with their +leading characteristics. + +On one occasion, the youngest of the white women, Louisa Boren, +attempted to barter some red flannel for a basket of potatoes. + +The basket of "wapatoes" occupied the center of a level spot in front of +the cabin, backed by a semicircle of perhaps twenty-five Indians. A +tall, bronze tyee (chief) stood up to wa-wa (talk). He wanted so much +cloth; stretching out his long arms to their utmost extent, fully two +yards. + +"No," she said, "I will give you so much," about one yard. + +"Wake, cultus potlatch" (No, that is just giving them away) answered the +Indian, who measured several times and insisted that he would not trade +for an inch less. Out of patience at last, she disdainfully turned her +back and retired inside the cabin behind a mat screen. No amount of +coaxing from the savages could induce her to return, and the +disappointed spectators filed off, bearing their "hyas mokoke" (very +valuable) potatoes with them, no doubt marveling at the firmness of the +white "slanna" (woman). + +A more successful deal in potatoes was the venture of A. A. Denny and J. +N. Low, who traveled from Alki to Fort Nesqually, in a big canoe manned +by four Indians and obtained fifty bushels of little, round, red +potatoes grown by Indians from seed obtained from the "Sking George" +men. The green hides of beeves were spread in the bottom of the canoe +and the potatoes piled thereon. + +Returning to Alki it was a little rough and the vegetables were well +moistened with salt chuck, as were the passengers also, probably, +deponent saith not. + +It is not difficult for those who have traveled the Sound in all kinds +of weather to realize the aptness of the expression of the Chinese cook +of a camping party who were moving in a large canoe; when the waves +began to rise, he exclaimed in agitation, "Too littlee boat for too +muchee big waters." It is well to bear in mind that the "Sound" is a +great inland sea. A tenderfoot's description of the water over which he +floated, the timorous occupant of a canoe, testifies that it looked to +him to be "Two hundred feet deep, as clear as a kitten's eye and as cold +as death." + +All the different sorts of canoes of which I shall speak in another +chapter look "wobbly" and uncertain, yet the Indians make long voyages +of hundreds of miles by carefully observing the wind and tide. + +A large canoe will easily carry ten persons and one thousand pounds of +baggage. One of these commodious travelers, with a load of natives and +their "ictas" (baggage) landed on a stormy day at Alki and the occupants +spent several hours ashore. While engaged with their meal one of them +exclaimed, "Nannitch!" (look) at the same time pointing at the smoke of +the campfire curling steadily straight upward. Without another word they +tumbled themselves and belongings aboard and paddled off in silent +satisfaction. + +The ascending column of smoke was their barometer which read "Fair +weather, no wind." + +The white people, unacquainted with the shores, tides and winds of the +great Inland Sea, did well to listen to their Indian canoemen; sometimes +their unwillingness to do so exposed them to great danger and even loss +of life. + +The Indians living on Elliott Bay were chiefly the indigenous tribe of +D'wampsh or Duwampsh, changed by white people into "Duwamish." + +They gave abundant evidence of possessing human feeling beneath their +rough exterior. + +One of the white women at Alki, prepared some food for a sick Indian +child which finally recovered. The child's father, "Old Alki John," was +a very "hard case," but his heart was tender toward his child, and to +show his gratitude he brought and offered as a present to the kind white +"slanna" (woman) a bright, new tin pail, a very precious thing to the +Indian mind. Of course she readily accepted his thanks but persuaded him +to keep the pail. + +Savages though they were, or so appeared, the Indians of Elliott Bay +were correctly described in these words: + + "We found a race, though rude and wild, + Still tender toward friend or child, + For dark eyes laughed or shone with tears + As joy or sorrow filled the years. + Their black-eyed babes the red men kissed + And captive brothers sorely missed; + With broken hearts brown mothers wept + When babes away by death were swept." + + --Song of the Pioneers. + +But there were amusing as well as pathetic experiences. The Indians were +like untaught children in many things. Their curiosity over-came them +and their innocent impertinence sometimes required reproof. + +In a cabin at Alki one morning, a white woman was frying fish. Warming +by the fire stood "Duwampsh Curley;" the odor of the fish was doubtless +appetizing; Curley was moved with a wish to partake of it and reached +out a dark and doubtful-looking hand to pick out a piece. The white +woman had a knife in her hand to turn the pieces and raised it to strike +the imprudent hand which was quickly and sheepishly withdrawn. + +Had he been as haughty and ill-natured as some savages the result might +have been disastrous, but he took the reproof meekly and mended his +manners instead of retaliating. + +Now and then the settlers were spectators in dramas of Indian romance. + +"Old Alki John" had a wife whose history became interesting. For some +unknown reason she ran away from Puyallup to Alki. Her husband followed +her, armed with a Hudson Bay musket and a frame of mind that boded no +good. While A. A. Denny, D. T. Denny and Alki John were standing +together on the bank one day Old John's observing eye caught sight of a +strange Indian ascending the bank, carrying his gun muzzle foremost, a +suggestive position not indicative of peaceful intentions. "Nannitch" +(look) he said quietly; the stranger advanced boldly, but Old John's +calm manner must have had a soothing effect upon the bloodthirsty +savage, as he concluded to "wa-wa" (talk) a little before fighting. + +So the gutturals and polysyllables of the native tongue fairly flew +about until evidently, as Mr. D. T. Denny relates, some sort of +compromise was effected. Not then understanding the language, he could +not determine just the nature of the arrangement, but has always thought +it was amicably settled by the payment of money by "Old Alki John" to +her former husband. This Indian woman was young and fair, literally so, +as her skin was very white, she being the whitest squaw ever seen among +them; her head was not flattened, she was slender and of good figure. +Possibly she had white blood in her veins; her Indian name was +"Si-a-ye." + +Being left a widow, she was not left to pine alone very long; another +claimed her hand and she became Mrs. Yeow-de-pump. When this one joined +his brethren in the happy hunting ground, she remained a widow for some +time, but is now the wife of the Indian Zacuse, mentioned in another +place. + +There were women cabin builders. Each married woman was given half the +donation claim by patent from the government; improvement on her part of +the claim was therefore necessary. + +On a fine, fair morning in the early spring of 1852, two women set forth +from the settlement at Alki, to cross Elliott Bay in a fishing canoe, +with Indians to paddle and a large dog to protect them from possible +wild animals in the forest, for in that wild time, bears, cougars and +wolves roamed the shores of Puget Sound. + +Landed on the opposite shore, the present site of Seattle, they made +their way slowly and with difficulty through the dense undergrowth of +the heavy forest, there being not so much as a trail, over a long +distance. Arrived at the chosen spot, they cut with their own hands some +small fir logs and laid the foundation of a cabin. While thus employed +the weather underwent a change and on the return was rather threatening. +The wind and waves were boisterous, the canine passenger was frightened +and uneasy, thus adding to the danger. The water washed into the canoe +and the human occupants suffered no little anxiety until they reached +the beach at home. + +One of the conditions of safe travel in a canoe is a quiet and careful +demeanor, the most approved plan being to sit down in the bottom of the +craft and _stay there_. + +To have a large, heavy animal squirming about, getting up and lying down +frequently, must have tried their nerve severely and it must have taken +good management to prevent a serious catastrophe. The Bell family were +camped at that time on their claim in a rude shelter of Indian boards +and mats. + +The handful of white men at Alki spent their time and energy in getting +out piles for the San Francisco market. At first they had very few +appliances for handling the timber. The first vessel to load was the +brig Leonesa, which took a cargo of piles, cut, rolled and hauled by +hand, as there were no cattle at the settlement. + +There were also no roads and Lee Terry went to Puyallup for a yoke of +oxen, which he drove down on the beach to Alki. Never were dumb brutes +better appreciated than these useful creatures. + +But the winter, or rather rainy season, wore away; as spring approached +the settlers explored the shores of the Sound far and near and it became +apparent that Alki must wait till "by and by," as the eastern shore of +Elliott Bay was found more desirable and the pioneers prepared to move +again by locating donation claims on a portion of the land now covered +by a widespread city, which will bring us to the next chapter, "The +Founding of Seattle and Indian War." + +The following is a brief recapitulation of the first days on Puget +Sound; in these later years we see the rapid and skillful construction +of elegant mansions, charming cottages and stately business houses, all +in sight of the spot where stood the first little cabin of the pioneer. +The builders of this cabin were D. T. Denny, J. N. Low and Lee Terry, +assisted by the Indians, the only tools, an ax and a hammer, the place +Alki Point, the time, the fall of 1851. + +They baked their bread before the fire on a willow board hewed from a +piece of a tree which grew near the camp; the only cooking vessel was a +tin pail; the salmon they got off the Indians was roasted before the +fire on a stick. + +The cabin was unfinished when the famous landing was made, November +13th, 1851, because J. N. Low returned to Portland, having been on the +Sound but a few days, then Lee Terry boarded Collins' scow on its return +trip up Sound leaving D. T. Denny alone for about three weeks, during +most of which time he was ill. This was Low's cabin; after the landing +of Bell, Boren and A. A. Denny and the others of the party, among whom +were Low and C. C. Terry, a roof was put on the unfinished cabin and +they next built A. A. Denny's and then two cabins of split cedar for +Bell and Boren and their families. + +When they moved to the east side of Elliott Bay, Bell's was the first +one built. W. N. Bell and D. T. Denny built A. A. Denny's on the east +side, as he was sick. D. T. Denny had served an apprenticeship in cabin +building, young as he was, nineteen years of age, before he came to +Puget Sound. + +The first of D. T. Denny's cabins he built himself with the aid of three +Indians. There was not a stick or piece of sawed stuff in it. + +However, by the August following his marriage, which took place January +23rd, 1853, he bought of H. L. Yesler lumber from his sawmill at about +$25.00 per M. to put up a little board house, sixteen by twenty feet +near the salt water, between Madison and Marion streets, Seattle. + +This little home was my birthplace, the first child of the first white +family established at Elliott Bay. Mr. and Mrs. D. T. Denny had been +threatened by Indians and their cabin robbed, so thought it best to move +into the settlement. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +FOUNDING OF SEATTLE AND INDIAN WAR. + + +The most astonishing change wrought in the aspect of nature by the +building of a city on Puget Sound is not the city itself but the +destruction of the primeval forest. + +By the removal of the thick timber the country becomes unrecognizable; +replaced by thousands of buildings of brick, wood and stone, graded +streets, telephone and electric light systems, steam, electric and cable +railways and all the paraphernalia of modern civilization, the contrast +is very great. The same amount of energy and money expended in a +treeless, level country would probably have built a city three times as +large as Seattle. + +In February, 1852, Bell, Boren and the Dennys located claims on the east +side of Elliott Bay. Others followed, but it was not until May, 1853, +that C. D. Boren and A. A. Denny filed the first plat of the town, named +for the noted chief, "Seattle." The second plat was filed shortly after +by D. S. Maynard. Maynard was a physician who did not at first depend on +the practice of his profession; perhaps the settlers were too vigorous +to require pills, powders and potions, at any rate he proposed to engage +in the business of packing salmon. + +The settlers at Alki moved over to their claims in the spring of 1852, +some of them camping until they could build log cabins. + +Finally all were well established and then began the hand to hand +conflict for possession of the ground. The mighty forest must yield to +fire and the ax; then from the deep bosom of the earth what bounty +arose! + +The Indians proved efficient helpers, guides and workers in many ways. +One of the pioneers had three Indians to help him build his cabin. + +To speak more particularly of the original architecture of the country, +the cabins, built usually of round logs of the Douglas fir, about six +inches in diameter, were picturesque, substantial and well suited to the +needs of the pioneer. A great feature of the Seattle cabin was the door +made of thick boards hewed out of the timber as there was no sawmill on +the bay until H. L. Yesler built the first steam sawmill erected on the +Sound. This substantial door was cut across in the middle with a +diagonal joint; the lower half was secured by a stout wooden pin, in +order that the upper half might be opened and the "wa-wa" (talk) proceed +with the native visitor, who might or might not be friendly, while he +stood on the outside of the door and looked in with eager curiosity, on +the strange ways of the "Bostons." + +The style of these log cabins was certainly admirable, adapted as they +were to the situation of the settler. They were inexpensive as the +material was plentiful and near at hand, and required only energy and +muscle to construct them; there were no plumber's, gas or electric light +bills coming in every month, no taxes for improvements and a man could +build a lean-to or hay-shed without a building permit. The interiors +were generally neat, tasteful and home-like, made so by the versatile +pioneer women who occupied them. + +These primitive habitations were necessarily scattered as it was +imperative that they should be placed so as to perfect the titles of the +donation claims. Sometimes two settlers were able to live near each +other when they held adjoining claims, others were obliged to live +several miles away from the main settlement and far from a neighbor, in +lonely, unprotected places. + +What thoughts of the homes and friends they had left many weary leagues +behind, visited these lonely cabin dwellers! + +The husband was engaged in clearing, slashing and burning log heaps, +cutting timber, hunting for game to supply the larder, or away on some +errand to the solitary neighbor's or distant settlement. Often, during +the livelong day the wife was alone, occupied with domestic toil, all of +which had to be performed by one pair of hands, with only primitive and +rude appliances; but there were no incompetent servants to annoy, social +obligations were few, fashion was remote and its tyranny unknown, in +short, many disagreeable things were lacking. The sense of isolation +was intensified by frequently recurring incidents in which the dangers +of pioneer life became manifest. The dark, mysterious forest might send +forth from its depths at any moment the menace of savage beast or +relentless man. + +The big, grey, timber wolf still roamed the woods, although it soon +disappeared before the oncoming wave of invading settlers. Generally +quite shy, they required some unusual attraction to induce them to +display their voices. + +On a dark winter night in 1853, the lonely cabin of D. T. and Louisa +Denny was visited by a pair of these voracious beasts, met to discuss +the remains of a cow, belonging to W. N. Bell, which had stuck fast +among some tree roots and died in the edge of the clearing. How they did +snarl and howl, making the woods and waters resound with their cries as +they greedily devoured the carcass. The pioneer couple who occupied the +cabin entered no objection and were very glad of the protection of the +solid walls of their primitive domicile. The next day, Mr. Denny, with +dog and gun, went out to hunt them but they had departed to some remote +region. + +On another occasion the young wife lay sick and alone in the cabin above +mentioned and a good neighbor, Mrs. Sarah Bell, from her home a mile +away, came to see her, bringing some wild [A]pheasant's eggs the men had +found while cutting spars. While the women chatted, an Indian came and +stood idly looking in over the half-door and his companion lurked in the +brush near by. + +[Footnote A: Ruffed grouse.] + +John Kanem, a brother of the chief, Pat Kanem, afterward told the +occupants of the cabin that these Indians had divulged their intention +of murdering them in order to rob their dwelling, but abandoned the +project, giving as a reason that a "haluimi kloochman" (another or +unknown woman) was there and the man was away. + +Surely a kind Providence watched over these unprotected ones that they +might in after years fulfill their destiny. + +During the summer of 1855, before the Indian war, Mr. and Mrs. D. T. +Denny were living in a log cabin in the swale, an opening in the midst +of a heavy forest, on their donation claim, to which they had moved from +their first cabin on Elliott Bay. + +Dr. Choush, an Indian medicine man, came along one day in a state of +ill-suppressed fury. He had just returned from a Government "potlatch" +at the Tulalip agency. In relating how they were cheated he said that +the Indians were presented with strips of blankets which had been torn +into narrow pieces about six or eight inches wide, and a little bit of +thread and a needle or two. The Indians thereupon traded among +themselves and pieced the strips together. + +He was naturally angry and said menacingly that the white people were +few, their doors were thin and the Indians could easily break them in +and kill all the "Bostons." + +All this could not have been very reassuring to the inmates of the +cabin; however they were uniformly kind to the natives and had many +friends among them. + +Just before the outbreak a troop of Indians visited this cabin and their +bearing was so haughty that Mrs. Denny felt very anxious. When they +demanded "Klosh mika potlatch wapatoes," (Give us some potatoes) she +hurried out herself to dig them as quickly as possible that they might +have no excuse for displeasure, and was much relieved when they took +their departure. One Indian remained behind a long time but talked very +little. It is supposed that he thought of warning them of the intended +attack on the white settlement but was afraid to do so because of the +enmity against him that might follow among his own people. + +Gov. Stevens had made treaties with the Indians to extinguish their +title to the lands of the Territory. Some were dissatisfied and stirred +up the others against the white usurpers. This was perfectly natural; +almost any American of whatever color resents usurpation. + +Time would fail to recount the injuries and indignities heaped upon the +Indians by the evil-minded among the whites, who could scarcely have +been better than the same class among the natives they sought to +displace. + +As subsequently appeared, there was a difference of opinion among the +natives as to the desirability of white settlements in their domain: +Leschi, Coquilton, Owhi, Kitsap, Kamiakin and Kanasket were determined +against them, while Sealth (Seattle) and Pat Kanem were peaceable and +friendly. + +The former, shrewd chieftains, well knew that the white people coveted +their good lands. + +One night before the war, a passing white man, David T. Denny, heard +Indians talking together in one of their "rancherees" or large houses; +they were telling how the white men knew that the lands belonging to +Tseiyuse and Ohwi, two great Yakima chiefs, were very desirable. + +Cupidity, race prejudice and cruelty caused numberless injuries and +indignities against the Indians. In spite of all, there were those among +them who proved the faithful friends of the white race. + +Hu-hu-bate-sute or "Salmon Bay Curley," a tall, hawk-nosed, eagle-eyed +Indian with very curly hair, was a staunch friend of the "Bostons." + +Thlid Kanem or "Cut-Hand" sent Lake John Che-shi-a-hud to Shilshole to +inform this "Curley," who lived there, of the intended attack on +Seattle. Curley told Ira W. Utter, a white settler on Shilshole or +Salmon Bay, and brought him up to Seattle in his own canoe during the +night. + +"Duwampsh Curley" or Su-whalth, appears in a very unfavorable light in +Bancroft's history. My authority, who speaks the native tongue fluently +and was a volunteer in active duty on the day of the battle of Seattle, +says it was not Curley who disported himself in the manner therein +described. I find this refreshing note pencilled on the margin: "Now +this is all a lie about Curley." + +Curley rendered valuable assistance on the day of the fight. D. T. Denny +saw him go on a mission down the bay at the request of the navy +officers, to ascertain the position of the hostiles in the north part of +the town. + +"Old Mose" or Show-halthlk brought word to Seattle of the approach of +the hostile bands in January, 1856. + +But I seem to anticipate and hasten to refer again to the daily life of +the Founders of Seattle. + +Trade here, as at Alki, consisted in cutting piles, spars and timber to +load vessels for San Francisco. These ships brought food supplies and +merchandise, the latter often consisting of goods, calicoes, blankets, +shawls and tinware, suitable for barter with the Indians to whom the +settlers still looked for a number of articles of food. + +Bread being the staff of life to the white man, the supply of flour was +a matter of importance. In the winter of 1852 this commodity became so +scarce, from the long delay of ships carrying it, that the price became +quite fancy, reaching forty dollars per barrel. Pork likewise became a +costly luxury; A. A. Denny relates that he paid ninety dollars for two +barrels and when by an untoward fate one of the barrels of the precious +meat was lost it was regarded as a positive calamity. + +Left on the beach out of reach of high tide, it was supposed to be safe, +but during the night it was carried away by the waves that swept the +banks under the high wind. At the next low tide which came also at +night, the whole settlement turned out and searched the beach, with +pitchwood torches, from the head of the Bay to Smith's Cove, but found +no trace of the missing barrel of pork. + +An extenuating circumstance was the fact that a large salmon might be +purchased for a brass button, while red flannel, beads, knives and other +"ictas" (things) were legal tender for potatoes, venison, berries and +clams. + +Domestic animals were few; I do not know if there was a sheep, pig or +cow, and but few chickens, on Elliott Bay at the beginning of the year +1852. + +As late as 1859, Charles Prosch relates that he paid one dollar and a +half for a dozen eggs and the same price for a pound of butter. + +There were no roads, only a few trails through the forest; a common mode +of travel was to follow the beach, the traveler having to be especially +mindful of the tide as the banks are so abrupt in many places that at +high tide the shore is impassable. The Indian canoe was pressed into +service whenever possible. + +Very gradually ways through the forest were tunneled out and made +passable, by cutting the trees and grubbing the larger stumps, but small +obstructions were disdained and anything that would escape a wagon-bed +was given peaceable possession. + +Of the original settlement, J. N. Low and family remained at Alki. + +D. T. and Louisa Denny, who were married at the cabin home of A. A. +Denny, January 23rd, 1853, moved themselves and few effects in a canoe +to their cabin on the front of their donation claim, the habitation +standing on the spot for many years occupied by numerous "sweetbrier" +bushes, grown from seeds planted by the first bride of Seattle. + +Stern realities confronted them; a part of the time they were out of +flour and had no bread for days; they bought fish of the Indians, which, +together with game from the forest, brought down by the rifle of the +pioneer, made existence possible. + +And then, too, the pioneer housewife soon became a shrewd searcher for +indigenous articles of food. Among these were nettle greens gathered in +the woods. + +In their season the native berries were very acceptable; the +salmonberry ripening early in June; dewberries and red and black +huckleberries were plentiful in July and August. + +The first meal partaken of in this cabin consisted of salt meat from a +ship's stores and potatoes. They afterward learned to make a whole meal +of a medium sized salmon with potatoes, the fragments remaining not +worth mention. + +The furniture of their cabin was meager, a few chairs from a ship, a +bedstead made of fir poles and a ship's stove were the principle +articles. One window without glass but closed by a wooden shutter with +the open upper half-door served to light it in the daytime, while the +glimmer of a dog-fish-oil lamp was the illumination at night. + +The stock consisted of a single pair of chickens, a wedding present from +D. S. Maynard. The hen set under the door-step and brought out a fine +brood of chicks. The rooster soon took charge of them, scratched, called +and led them about in the most motherly manner, while the hen, +apparently realizing the fact that she was literally a rara avis +prepared to bring out another brood. + +Mr. and Mrs. D. T. Denny while visiting their friends at Alki on one +occasion witnessed a startling scene. + +An Indian had come to trade, "Old Alki John," and a misunderstanding +appears to have arisen about the price of a sack of flour. The women, +seated chatting at one end of the cabin, were chilled with horror to see +the white man, his face pale with anger and excitement, raise an ax as +if to strike the Indian, who had a large knife, such as many of them +wore suspended from the wrist by a cord; the latter, a tall and brawny +fellow, regarded him with a threatening look. + +Fortunately no blow was struck and the white man gradually lowered the +ax and dropped it on the floor. The Indian quietly departed, much to +their relief, as a single blow would likely have resulted in a bloody +affray and the massacre of all the white people. + +At that time there were neither jails, nor courthouse, no churches, but +one sawmill, no steamboats, railways or street cars, not even a rod of +wagon road in King County, indeed all the conveniences of modern +civilization were wanting. + +There were famous, historic buildings erected and occupied, other than +the cabin homes; the most notable of these was Fort Decatur. + +The commodious blockhouse so named after the good sloop-of-war that +rescued the town of Seattle from the hostiles, stood on an eminence at +the end of Cherry Street overlooking the Bay. At this time there were +about three hundred white inhabitants. + +The hewn timbers of this fort were cut by D. T. Denny and two others, on +the front of the donation claim, and hauled out on the beach ready to +load a ship for San Francisco, but ultimately served a very different +purpose from the one first intended. + +The mutterings of discontent among the Indians portended war and the +settlers made haste to prepare a place of refuge. The timbers were +dragged up the hill by oxen and many willing hands promptly put them in +place; hewn to the line, the joints were close and a good shingle roof +covered the building, to which were added two bastions of sawed stuff +from Yesler's mill. D. T. Denny remembers the winter was a mild one, and +men went about without coats, otherwise "in their shirtsleeves." While +they were building the fort, the U. S. Sloop-of-war _Decatur_, sailed up +the Bay with a fair breeze, came to anchor almost directly opposite, +swung around and fired off the guns, sixteen thirty-two-pounders, making +thunderous reverberations far and wide, a sweet sound to the settlers. + +Several of the too confident ones laughed and scoffed at the need of a +fort while peace seemed secure. One of these doubters was told by Mrs. +Louisa Denny that the people laughed at Noah when he built the ark, and +it transpired that a party was obliged to bring this objector and his +family into the fort from their claim two miles away, after dark of the +night before the battle. + +A few nights before the attack, a false alarm sent several settlers out +in fluttering nightrobes, cold, moonlight and frosty though it was. Mr. +Hillory Butler and his wife, Mrs. McConaha and her children calling to +the former "Wait for me." It is needless to say that Mr. Butler waited +for nobody until he got inside the fort. + +The excitement was caused by the shooting of Jack Drew, a deserter from +the Decatur. He was instantly killed by a boy of fifteen, alone with his +sister whom he thus bravely defended. This was Milton Holgate and the +weapon a shotgun, the charge of which took effect in the wanderer's +face. As the report rang out through the still night air it created a +panic throughout the settlement. + +A family living on the eastern outskirts of the village at the foot of a +hill were driven in and their house burned. The men had been engaged in +tanning leather and had quite a number of hides on hand that must have +enriched the flames. The owners had ridiculed the idea that there was +danger of an Indian attack and would not assist in building the fort, +scoffed at the man-of-war in the harbor and were generally contemptuous +of the whole proceeding. However, when fired on by the Indians they fled +precipitately to the fort they had scorned. One of them sank down, +bareheaded, breathless and panting on a block of wood inside the fort in +an exceedingly subdued frame of mind to the great amusement of the +soldiery, both Captain and men. + +The first decided move of the hostiles was the attack on the White River +settlers, burning, killing and destroying as is the wont of a savage +foe. + +Joe Lake, a somewhat eccentric character, had one of the hairbreadth +escapes fall to his share of the terrible times. He was slightly wounded +in an attack on the Cox home on White River. Joe was standing in the +open door when an Indian not far away from the cabin, seeing him, held +his ramrod on the ground for a rest, placed his gun across it and fired +at Joe; the bullet penetrated the clothing and just grazed his shoulder. +A man inside the cabin reached up for a gun which hung over the door; +the Indian saw the movement and guessing its purpose made haste to +depart. + +The occupants of the Cox residence hurriedly gathered themselves and +indispensable effects, and embarking in a canoe, with energetic +paddling, aided by the current, sped swiftly down the river into the Bay +and safely reached the fort. + +Beside the Decatur, a solitary sailing vessel, the Bark Brontes, was +anchored in the harbor. + +Those to engage in the battle were the detachments of men from the +Decatur, under Lieutenants Drake, Hughes, Morris and Phelps, ninety-six +men and eighteen marines, leaving a small number on board. + +A volunteer three months' company of settlers of whom C. C. Hewitt was +Captain, Wm. Gilliam, First Lieutenant, D. T. Denny, Corporal and Robert +Olliver, Sergeant, aided in the defense. + +A number of the settlers had received friendly warning and were +expecting the attack, some having made as many as three removals from +their claims, each time approaching nearer to the fort. + +Mr. and Mrs. D. T. Denny forsook their cabin in the wilderness and spent +an anxious night at the home of W. N. Bell, which was a mile or more +from the settlement, and the following day moved in to occupy a house +near A. A. Denny's, where the Frye block now stands. From thence they +moved again to a little frame house near the fort. + +Yoke-Yakeman, an Indian who had worked for A. A. Denny and was nicknamed +"Denny Jim," played an important part as a spy in a council of the +hostiles and gave the warning to Captain Gansevoort of the Decatur of +the impending battle. + +Mr. and Mrs. Blaine, the pioneer M. E. minister, and his wife, who was +the first school teacher of Seattle, went on board the man-of-war on +the 22nd of January, 1856, with their infant son, from their home +situated where the Boston Block now stands. + +On the morning of the 26th, while not yet arisen, she was urging her +husband to get a boat so that she might go ashore; he demurred, +parleying, with his hand upon the doorknob. Just then they heard the +following dialogue: + + Mr. H. L. Yesler (who had come aboard in some haste): "Captain, a + klootchman says there are lots of Indians back of Tom Pepper's + house." + + Captain Gansevoort (who was lying in his berth): "John bring me + my boots." + + H. L. Yesler: "Never mind Captain, just send the lieutenant with + the howitzer." + + Captain G.: "No sir! Where my men go, I go too John bring me my + boots." + +And thus the ball opened; a shell was dropped in the neighborhood of +"Tom Pepper's house" with the effect to arouse the whole horde of +savages, perhaps a thousand, gathered in the woods back of the town. + +Unearthly yells of Indians and brisk firing of musketry followed; the +battle raged until noon, when there was a lull. + +A volume of personal experiences might be written, but I will give here +but a few incidents. To a number of the settlers who were about +breakfasting, it was a time of breathless terror; they must flee for +their lives to the fort. The bullets from unseen foes whistled over +their heads and the distance traversed to the fort was the longest +journey of their lives. It was remembered afterward that some very +amusing things took place in the midst of fright and flight. One man, +rising late and not fully attired, donned his wife's red flannel +petticoat instead of the bifurcated garment that usually graced his +limbs. The "pants" were not handy and the petticoat was put on in a +trice. + +Louisa Boren Denny, my mother, was alone with her child about two years +old, in the little frame house, a short distance from the fort. She was +engaged in baking biscuits when hearing the shots and yells of the +Indians she looked out to see the marines from the Decatur swarming up +out of their boats onto Yesler's wharf and concluded it was best to +retire in good order. With provident foresight she snatched the pan from +the oven and turned the biscuits into her apron, picked up the child, +Emily Inez Denny, with her free hand and hurried out, leaving the +premises to their fate. Fortunately her husband, David T. Denny, who had +been standing guard, met her in the midst of the flying bullets and +assisted her, speedily, into the friendly fort. + +A terrible day it was for all those who were called upon to endure the +anxiety and suspense that hovered within those walls; perhaps the moment +that tried them most was when the report was circulated that all would +be burned alive as the Indians would shoot arrows carrying fire on the +roof of cedar shingles or heap combustibles against the walls near the +ground and thus set fire to the building. To prevent the latter +maneuver, the walls were banked with earth all around. + +But the Indians kept at a respectful distance, the rifle-balls and +shells were not to their taste and it is not their way to fight in the +open. + +A tragic incident was the death of Milton Holgate. Francis McNatt, a +tall man, stood in the door of the fort with one hand up on the frame +and Jim Broad beside him; Milton Holgate stood a little back of McNatt, +and the bullet from a savage's gun passed either over or under the +uplifted arm of McNatt, striking the boy between the eyes. + +Quite a number of women and children were taken on board the two ships +in the harbor, but my mother remained in the fort. + +The battle was again renewed and fiercely fought in the afternoon. + +Toward evening the Indians prepared to burn the town, but a brisk +dropping of shells from the big guns of the Decatur dispersed them and +they departed for cooler regions, burning houses on the outskirts of the +settlement as they retreated toward the Duwamish River. + +[Illustration: INDIAN CANOES SAILING WITH NORTH WIND] + +Leschi, the leader, threatened to return in a month with his bands and +annihilate the place. In view of other possible attacks, a second block +house was built and the forest side of the town barricaded. + +Fort Decatur was a two-story building, forty feet square; the upper +story was partitioned off into small rooms, where a half dozen or more +families lived until it was safe or convenient to return to their +distant homes. Each had a stove on which to cook, and water was carried +from a well inside the stockade. + +There were a number of children thus shut in, who enlivened the grim +walls with their shifting shadows, awakened mirth by their playfulness +or touched the hearts of their elders by their pathos. + +Like a ray of sunlight in a gloomy interior was little Sam Neely, a +great pet, a sociable, affectionate little fellow, visiting about from +corner to corner, always sure of attention and a kindly welcome. The +marines from the man-of-war spoiled him without stint. One of the +Sergeants gave his mother a half worn uniform, which she skilfully +re-made, gold braid, buttons and all, for little Sam. How proud he was, +with everybody calling him the "Little Sergeant"; whenever he approached +a loquacious group, some one was sure to say, "Well, Sergeant, what's +the news?" + +When the day came for the Neely family to move out of the fort, his +mother was very busy and meals uncertain. + +He finally appealed to a friend, who had before proven herself capable +of sympathy, for something to appease his gnawing hunger, and she +promptly gave him a bowl of bread and milk. Down he sat and ate with +much relish; as he drained the last drop he observed, "I was just so +hungry, I didn't know how hungry I was." + +Poor little Sam was drowned in the Duwampsh River the same year, and +buried on its banks. + +Laura Bell, a little girl of perhaps ten years, during her stay in the +fort exhibited the courage and constancy characterizing even the +children in those troublous times. + +She did a great part of the work for the family, cared for her younger +sisters, prepared and carried food to her sick mother who was heard to +say with tender gratitude, "Your dear little hands have brought me +almost everything I have had." Both have passed into the Beyond; one who +remembers Laura well says she was a beautiful, bright, rosy cheeked +child, pleasant to look upon. + +In unconscious childhood I was carried into Fort Decatur, on the morning +of the battle, yet by careful investigation it has been satisfactorily +proven that one lasting impression was recorded upon the palimpsest of +my immature mind. + +A shot was accidentally fired from a gun inside the fort, by which a +palefaced, dark haired lady narrowly escaped death. The bullet passed +through a loop of her hair, below the ear, just beside the white neck. +Her hair was dressed in an old fashioned way, parted in the middle on +the forehead and smoothly brushed down over the ears, divided and +twisted on each side and the two ropes of hair coiled together at the +back of the head. Like a flashlight photograph, her face is imprinted on +my memory, nothing before or after for sometime can I claim to recall. + +A daughter, the second child of David T. and Louisa Denny, was born in +Fort Decatur on the sixteenth of March, 1856, who lived to mature into a +gifted and gracious womanhood and passed away from earth in Christian +faith and hope on January seventeenth, 1889. + +Other children who remained in the fort for varying periods, were those +of the Jones, Kirkland, Lewis, McConaha and Boren families. + +Of the number of settlers who occupied the fort on the day of the +battle, the following are nearly, if not quite all, the families: Wm. N. +Bell, Mrs. Bell and several young children; John Buckley and Mrs. +Buckley; D. A. Neely and family, one of whom was little Sam Neely spoken +of elsewhere; Mr. and Mrs. Hillory Butler, gratefully remembered as the +best people in the settlement to visit and help the sick; the Holgates, +Mrs. and Miss Holgate, Lemuel Holgate, and Milton Holgate who was +killed; Timothy Grow, B. L. Johns and six children, whose mother died on +the way to Puget Sound; Joe Lake, the Kirkland family, father and +several daughters; Wm. Cox and family and D. T. Denny and family. + +During the Indian war, H. L. Yesler took Yoke-Yakeman, or "Denny Jim," +the friendly Indian before mentioned, with him across Lake Washington to +the hiding place of the Sammumpsh Indians who were aiding the hostiles. +Yesler conferred with them and succeeded in persuading the Indians to +come out of their retreat and go across the Sound. + +While returning, Denny Jim met with an accident which resulted fatally. +Intending to shoot some ducks, he drew his shotgun toward him, muzzle +first, and discharged it, the load entering his arm, making a flesh +wound. Through lack of skill, perhaps, in treating it, he died from the +effects, in Curley's house situated on the slope in front of Fort +Decatur toward the Bay. + +This Indian and the service he rendered should not be forgotten; the +same may be appropriately said of the faithful Spokane of whom the +following account has been given by eye witnesses: + + "At the attack of the Cascades of the Columbia, on the 26th of + March, 1856, the white people took refuge in Bradford's store, a + log structure near the river. Having burned a number of other + buildings, the Indians, Yakimas and Klickitats, attempted to fire + the store also; as fast as the shingles were ignited by burning + missiles in the hands of the Indians, the first was put out by + pouring brine from a pork barrel, with a tin cup, on the + incipient blazes, not being able to get any water. + + "The occupants, some wounded, suffered for fresh water, having + only some ale and whisky. They hoped to get to the river at + night, but the Indians illuminated the scene by burning + government property and a warehouse. + + "James Sinclair, who was shot and instantly killed early in the + fight, had brought a Spokane Indian with him. This Indian + volunteered to get water for the suffering inmates. A slide used + in loading boats was the only chance and he stripped off his + clothing, slid down to the river and returned with a bucket of + water. This was made to last until the 28th, when, the enemy + remaining quiet the Spokane repeated the daring performance of + going down the slide and returning with a pailful of water, with + great expedition, until he had filled two barrels, a feat + deserving more than passing mention." + +On Elliott Bay, the cabins of the farther away settlers had gone up in +smoke, fired by the hostile Indians. Some were deserted and new ones +built far away from the Sound in the depths of the forest. It required +great courage to return to their abandoned homes from the security of +the fort, yet doubtless the settlers were glad to be at liberty after +their enforced confinement. One pioneer woman says it was easy to see +_Indians_ among the stumps and trees around their cabin after the war. + +Many remained in the settlement, others left the country for safer +regions, while a few cultivated land under volunteer military guard in +order to provide the settlement with vegetables. + +The Yesler mill cookhouse, a log structure, was made historical in those +days. The hungry soldiers after a night watch were fed there and rushed +therefrom to the battle. + +While there was no church, hotel, storehouse, courthouse or jail it was +all these by turns. No doubt those who were sheltered within its walls, +ran the whole gamut of human emotion and experience. + +In the PUGET SOUND WEEKLY of July 30th, 1866, published in Seattle, it +was thus described: + + "There was nothing about this cook house very peculiar, except + the interest with which old memories had invested it. It was + simply a dingy-looking hewed log building, about twenty-five feet + square, a little more than one story high, with a shed addition + in the rear, and to strangers and newcomers was rather an + eye-sore and nuisance in the place--standing as it did in the + business part of the town, among the more pretentious buildings + of modern construction, like a quaint octogenarian, among a band + of dandyish sprigs of young America. To old settlers, however, + its weather-worn roof and smoke-blackened walls, inside and out, + were vastly interesting from long familiarity, and many pleasant + and perhaps a few unpleasant recollections were connected with + its early history, which we might make subjects of a small volume + of great interest, had we time to indite it. Suffice it to say, + however, that this old cook house was one among the first + buildings erected in Seattle; was built for the use of the saw + mill many years since, and though designed especially for a cook + house, has been used for almost every conceivable purpose for + which a log cabin, in a new and wild country, may be employed. + + "For many years the only place for one hundred miles or more + along the eastern shores of Puget Sound, where the pioneer + settlers could be hospitably entertained by white men and get a + square meal, was Yesler's cook house in Seattle, and whether he + had money or not, no man ever found the latch string of the cook + house drawn in, or went away hungry from the little cabin door; + and many an old Puget Sounder remembers the happy hours, jolly + nights, strange encounters and wild scenes he has enjoyed around + the broad fireplace and hospitable board of Yesler's cook house. + + "During the Indian war this building was the general rendezvous + of the volunteers engaged in defending the thinly populated + country against the depredations of the savages, and was also the + resort of the navy officers on the same duty on the Sound. Judge + Lander's office was held in one corner of the dining room; the + auditor's office, for some time, was kept under the same roof, + and, indeed, it may be said to have been used for more purposes + than any other building on the Pacific coast. It was the general + depository from which law and justice were dispensed throughout a + large scope of surrounding country. It has, at different times, + served for town hall, courthouse, jail, military headquarters, + storehouse, hotel and church; and in the early years of its + history served all these purposes at once. It was the place of + holding elections, and political parties of all sorts held their + meetings in it, and quarreled and made friends again, and ate, + drank, laughed, sung, wept, and slept under the same hospitable + roof. If there was to be a public gathering of the settlers of + any kind and for any purpose, no one ever asked where the place + of meeting was to be, for all knew it was to be at the cook + house. + + "The first sermon, by a Protestant, in King county was preached + by the Rev. Mr. Close in the old cook house. The first + lawsuit--which was the trial of the mate of the Franklin Adams, + for selling ship's stores and appropriating the proceeds--came + off, of course, in the old cook house. Justice Maynard presided + at this trial, and the accused was discharged from the old cook + house with the wholesome advice that in future he should be + careful to make a correct return of all his private sales of + other people's property. + + "Who, then, knowing the full history of this famous old relic of + early times, can wonder that it has so long been suffered to + stand and moulder, unused, in the midst of the more gaudy + surroundings of a later civilization? And who can think it + strange, when, at last, its old smoky walls were compelled to + yield to the pressure of progression, and be tumbled heedlessly + into the street, that the old settler looked sorrowfully upon the + vandal destruction, and silently dropped a tear over its leveled + ruins. Peace to the ashes of the old cook house." + +While the pioneers lingered in the settlement, they enjoyed the luxury +of living in houses of sawed lumber. Time has worked out his revenges +until what was then disesteemed is much admired now. A substantial and +picturesque lodge of logs, furnished with modern contrivances is now +regarded as quite desirable, for summer occupation at least. + +The struggle of the Indians to regain their domain resulted in many +sanguinary conflicts. The bloody wave of war ran hither and yon until +spent and the doom of the passing race was sealed. + +Seattle and the whole Puget Sound region were set back ten years in +development. Toilsome years they were that stretched before the +pioneers. They and their families were obliged to do whatever they could +to obtain a livelihood; they were neither ashamed nor afraid of honest +work and doubtless enjoyed the reward of a good conscience and vigorous +health. + +Life held many pleasures and much freedom from modern fret besides. As +one of them observed, "We were happy then, in our log cabin homes." + +Long after the incidents herein related occurred, one of the survivors +of the White River massacre wrote the following letter, which was +published in a local paper: + + "Burgh Hill, Ohio, Sept. 8.--I notice occasionally a pioneer + sketch in the Post-Intelligencer relating some incident in the + war of 1855-56. I have a vivid recollection of this, being a + member of one of the families concerned therein. I remember + distinctly the attack upon the fort at Seattle in January, 1856. + Though a child, the murdering of my mother and step-father by the + Indians a few weeks before made such an impression upon my mind + that I was terror-stricken at the thought of another massacre, + and the details are indelibly and most vividly fixed in my mind. + When I read of the marvelous growth of Seattle I can hardly + realize that it is possible. I add my mite to the pioneer history + of Seattle and vicinity. + + "I was born in Harrison township, Grant county, Wisconsin, + November 13, 1848. When I was five months old my father started + for the gold diggings in California, but died shortly after + reaching that state. In the early part of 1851 my mother married + Harvey Jones. In the spring of 1854 we started for Washington + territory, overland, reaching our destination on White river in + the fall, having been six months and five days in making the + trip. Our route lay through Iowa, Nebraska, Wyoming, Idaho, + Oregon and Washington territory. To speak in detail of all my + recollections of this journey would make this article too + lengthy. + + "My step-father took up land on White river some twenty miles up + the stream from Seattle. At that time there were only five or six + families in the settlement, the nearest neighbor to us being + about one-fourth mile distant. During the summer of 1855 I went + some two and a half miles to school along a path through the + dense woods in danger both from wild animals and Indians. Some of + the settlers became alarmed at reports of hostile intentions by + the Indians upon our settlement and left some two weeks before + the outbreak. Among those who thought their fears groundless and + remained was our family. + + "On Sunday morning, October 28, 1855, while at breakfast we were + surprised, and the house surrounded by a band of hostile Indians, + who came running from the grass and bushes, whooping and + discharging firearms. They seemed to rise from the ground so + sudden and stealthy had been the attack. Our family consisted of + my step-father (sick at the time), my mother, a half-sister, not + quite four years old, a half-brother, not quite two, a hired + man, Cooper by name, and myself. + + "As soon as the Indians began firing into the house my mother + covered us children over with a feather bed in the corner of one + of the rooms farthest from the side attacked. In a short time it + became evident we were entirely at the mercy of the savages, and + after a hurried consultation between my mother and the hired man, + he concluded to attempt to escape by flight; accordingly he came + into the room where I was, and with an ax pried off the casing of + the window and removed the lower sash, and then jumped out, but + as was afterward learned he was shot when only a few rods from + the house. + + "My step-father was shot about the same time inside the house + while passing from his room to the one in which my mother was. In + a short time there appeared to be a cessation of the firing, and + upon looking out from under the bed over us I saw an Indian in + the next room carrying something out. Soon we were taken out by + them. I did not see my mother. We were placed in the charge of + the leader of the band who directed them in their actions. They + put bedclothes and other combustible articles under the house and + set fire to them, and in this way burned the house. When it was + well nigh burned to the ground, we were led away by one of the + tribe, who in a short time allowed us to go where we pleased. I + first went to the nearest neighbor's, but all was confusion, and + no one was about. I then came back to the burned house. + + "I found my mother a short distance from the house, or where it + had stood, still alive. She warned me to leave speedily and soon. + I begged to stay with her but she urged me to flee. We made a + dinner of some potatoes which had been baked by the fire. I + carried my little half-brother and led my half-sister along the + path to where I had gone to school during the summer, but there + was no one there. I went still further on, but they, too, had + gone. I came back to the school house, not knowing what to do. It + was getting late. I was tired, as was my sister. My little + brother was fretful, and cried to see his mother. I had carried + him some three and a half or four miles altogether. + + "While trying to quiet them I saw an Indian coming toward us. He + had not seen us. I hid the children in the bushes and moved + toward him to meet him. I soon had the relief to recognize in him + an acquaintance I had often seen while attending school. We knew + him as Dave. He told me to bring the children to his wigwam. His + squaw was very kind, but my sister and brother were afraid of + her. In the night he took us in a canoe down the river to + Seattle. I was taken on board the man-of-war, Decatur, and they + were placed in charge of some one in the fort. An uncle, John + Smale, had crossed the plains when we did, but went to + California. He was written to about the massacre, and reached us + in June, 1856. We went to San Francisco and then to the Isthmus, + and from there we went to New York city. From there we were taken + to Wisconsin, where my sister and brother remained. I was brought + back to Ohio in September, 1856. They both died in October, 1864, + of diphtheria, in Wisconsin." + + "JOHN I. KING, M. D." + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE MURDER OF MCCORMICK. + + +The shores of Lake Union, in Seattle, now surrounded by electric and +steam railways, sawmills and manufactories, dwellings and public +buildings, were clothed with a magnificent, dense, primeval forest, when +the adventurous pioneers first looked upon its mirror-like surface. The +shadowy depths of the solemn woods held many a dark and tragic secret; +contests between enemies in both brute and human forms were doubtless +not infrequently hidden there. + +Many men came to the far northwest unheralded and unknown to the few +already established, and wandering about without guides, unacquainted +with the dangers peculiar to the region, were incautious and met a +mysterious fate. + +For a long time the "Pioneer and Democrat," of Olympia, Washington, one +of the earliest newspapers of the northwest, published an advertisement +in its columns inquiring for James Montgomery McCormick, sent to it from +Pennsylvania. It is thought to have been one and the same person with +the subject of this sketch. Even if it were not, the name will do as +well as any other. + +One brilliant summer day in July of 1853, a medium sized man, past +middle age, was pushing his way through the black raspberry jungle on +the east side of Lake Union, gathering handfuls of the luscious fruit +that hung in rich purple clusters above his head. A cool bubbling +spring, that came from far up the divide toward Lake Washington, tempted +him and stooping down he drank of the refreshing stream where it filled +a little pool in the shadow of a mossy log. Glancing about him, he +marked with a keen delight the loveliness of the vegetation, the plumy +ferns, velvet mosses and drooping cedars; how grateful to him must have +been the cool north breeze wandering through the forest! No doubt he +thought it a pleasant place to rest in before returning to the far away +settlement. Upon the mossy log he sat contentedly, marveling at the +stillness of the mighty forest. + +The thought had scarcely formed itself when he was startled by the +dipping of paddles, wild laughter and vociferous imitations of animals +and birds. A canoe grated on the beach and after a brief expectant +interval, tramping feet along the trail betokened an arrival and a group +of young Indians came in sight, one of whom carried a Hudson Bay musket. + +"Kla-how-ya" (How do you do), said the leader, a flathead, with shining +skin recently oiled, sinister black brows, and thick black hair cut +square and even at the neck. + +At first they whistled and muttered, affecting little interest in his +appearance, yet all the while were keenly studying him. + +The white man had with him a rifle, revolver and camp ax. The young +savages examined the gun, lifting it up and sighting at a knot-hole in a +distant tree; then the ax, the sharp edge of which they fingered, and +the revolver, to their minds yet more fascinating. + +They were slightly disdainful as though not caring to own such articles, +thereby allaying any fears he may have had as to their intentions. Being +able to converse but little with the natives, the stranger +good-naturedly permitted them to examine his weapons and even his +clothing came under their scrutiny. His garments were new, and well +adapted to frontier life. + +When he supposed their curiosity satisfied, he rose to go, when one of +the Indians asked him, "Halo chicamum?" (Have you any money?) he +incautiously slapped his hip pocket and answered "Hiyu chicamum" (plenty +of money), perhaps imagining they did not know its use or value, then +started on the trail. + +They let him go a little way out of sight and in a few, half-whispered, +eager, savage words agreed to follow him, with what purpose did not +require a full explanation. + +Noiselessly and swiftly they followed on his track. One shot from the +musket struck him in the back of the head and he fell forward and they +rushed upon him, seized the camp ax and dealt repeated blows; life +extinct, they soon stripped him of coat, shirt, and pantaloons, rifled +the pockets, finding $200 and a few small trinkets, knife or keys. With +the haste of guilt they threw the body still clothed in a suit of +undergarments, behind a big log, among the bushes and hurried away with +their booty, paddling swiftly far up the lake to their camp. + +A dark, cloudy night followed and the Indians huddled around a little +fire, ever and anon starting at some sound in the gloomy forest. Already +very superstitious, their guilt made them doubly afraid of imaginary +foes. On a piece of mat in the center of the group lay the money, +revolver, etc., of which they had robbed the unfortunate white man. They +intended to divide them by "slahal," the native game played with +"stobsh" and "slanna" (men and women), as they called the round black +and white disks with which they gambled. A bunch of shredded cedar bark +was brought from the canoe and the game began. All were very skillful +and continued for several hours, until at last they counted the clothes +to one, all the money to another, and the revolver and trifles to the +rest. One of the less fortunate in a very bad humor said "The game was +not good, I don't want this little 'cultus' (worthless) thing." + +"O, you are stupid and don't understand it," they answered tauntingly, +thereupon he rolled himself in his blanket and sulked himself to sleep, +while the others sat half dreamily planning what they would do with +their booty. + +Very early they made the portage between Lakes Union and Washington and +returned to their homes. + +But they did not escape detection. + +Only a few days afterward an Indian woman, the wife of Hu-hu-bate-sute +or "Salmon Bay Curley," crossed Lake Union to the black raspberry patch +to gather the berries. Creeping here and there through the thick +undergrowth, she came upon a gruesome sight, the disfigured body of the +murdered white man. Scarcely waiting for a horrified "Achada!" she fled +incontinently to her canoe and paddled quickly home to tell her husband. +Hu-hu-bate-sute went back with her and arrived at the spot, where one +log lay across another, hollowed out the earth slightly, rolled in and +covered the body near the place where it was discovered. + +Suspecting it was the work of some wild, reckless Indians he said +nothing about it. + +Their ill-gotten gains troubled the perpetrators of the deed, brought +them no good fortune and they began to think there was "tamanuse" about +them; they gave the revolver away, bestowed the small articles on some +unsuspecting "tenas" (children) and gave a part of the money to "Old +Steve," whose Indian name was Stemalyu. + +The one who criticised the division of the spoils, whispered about +among the other Indians dark hints concerning the origin of the suddenly +acquired wealth and gradually a feeling arose against those who had the +money. Quarreling one day over some trifle, one of them scornfully +referred to the other's part of the cruel deed: "You are wicked, you +killed a white man," said he. The swarthy face of the accused grew livid +with rage and he plunged viciously at the speaker, but turning, +eel-like, the accuser slipped away and ran out of sight into the forest. +An old Indian followed him and asked "What was that you said?" + +"O nothing, just idle talk." + +"You had better tell me," said the old man sternly. + +After some hesitation he told the story. The old man was deeply grieved +and so uneasy that he went all the way to Shilshole (Salmon Bay) to see +if his friend Hu-hu-bate-sute knew anything about it and that discreet +person astonished him by telling him his share of the story. By degrees +it became known to the Indians on both lakes and at the settlement. + +Meanwhile the wife of the one accused in the contention, took the money +and secretly dropped it into the lake. + +One warm September day in the fall of the same year, quite a concourse +of Indians were gathered out doors near the big Indian house a little +north of D. T. Denny's home in the settlement (Seattle); they were +having a great "wa-wa" (talk) about something; he walked over and asked +them what it was all about. + +"Salmon Bay Curley," who was among them, thereupon told him of the +murder and the distribution of the valuables. + +Shortly after, W. N. Bell, D. T. Denny, Dr. Maynard, E. A. Clark and one +or two others, with Curley as a guide, went out to the lake, found the +place and at first thought of removing the body, but that being +impossible, Dr. Maynard placed the skull, or rather the fragments of it, +in a handkerchief and took the two pairs of spectacles, one gold-rimmed, +the other steel-rimmed, which were left by the Indians, and all returned +to the settlement to make their report. + +Investigation followed and as a result four Indians were arrested. A +trial before a Justice Court was held in the old Felker house, which was +built by Captain Felker and was the first large frame house of sawed +lumber erected on the site of Seattle. + +At this trial, Klap-ke-lachi Jim testified positively against two of +them and implicated two others. The first two were summarily executed by +hanging from a tall sharply leaning stump over which a rope was thrown; +it stood where the New England Hotel was afterward built. A young Indian +and one called Old Petawow were the others accused. + +Petawow was carried into court by two young Indians, having somehow +broken his leg. There was not sufficient evidence against him to convict +and he was released. + +C. D. Boren was sheriff and for lack of a jail, the young Indian accused +was locked in a room in his own house. + +Not yet satisfied with the work of execution, a mob headed by E. A. +Clark determined to hang this Indian also. They therefore obtained the +assistance of some sailors with block and tackle from a ship in the +harbor, set up a tripod of spars, cut for shipment, over which they put +the rope. In order to have the coast clear so they could break the +"jail," a man was sent to Boren's house, who pretended that he wished to +buy some barrels left in Boren's care by a cooper and stacked on the +beach some distance away. + +The unsuspecting victim of the ruse accompanied him to the beach where +the man detained him as long as he thought necessary, talking of +barrels, brine and pickling salmon, and perhaps not liking to miss the +"neck-tie party," at last said, "Maybe we'd better get back, the boys +are threatening mischief." + +Taking the hint instantly, Boren started on a dead run up the beach in a +wild anxiety to save the Indian's life. In sight of the improvised +scaffold he beheld the Indian with the noose around his neck, E. A. +Clark and D. Livingston near by, a sea captain, who was a +mere-on-looker, and the four sailors in line with the rope in their +hands, awaiting the order to pull. + +The sheriff recovered himself enough to shout, "Drop that rope, you +rascals!" + +"O string him up, he's nothing but a Siwash," said one. + +"Dry up! you have no right to hang him, he will be tried at the next +term of court," said Boren. The sailors dropped the rope, Boren removed +the noose from the neck of the Indian, who was silent, bravely enduring +the indignity from the mob. The majesty of the law was recognized and +the crowd dispersed. + +The Indian was sent to Steilacoom, where he was kept in jail for six +months, but when tried there was no additional evidence and he was +therefore released. Returning to his people he changed his name, taking +that of his father's cousin, and has lived a quiet and peaceable life +throughout the years. + +Sad indeed seems the fate of this unknown wanderer, but not so much so +as that of others who came to the Northwest to waste their lives in +riotous living and were themselves responsible for a tragic end of a +wicked career, so often sorrowfully witnessed by the sober and +steadfast. + +Of the participants in this exciting episode, D. T. Denny, C. D. Boren +and the Indian, whose life was so promptly and courageously saved by C. +D. Boren from an ignominious death, are (in 1892) still living in King +County, Washington. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +KILLING COUGARS. + + +It was springtime in an early year of pioneer times. D. T. and Louisa +Denny were living in their log cabin in the swale, an opening in the +midst of the great forest, about midway between Elliott Bay and Lake +Union. Not very far away was their only neighbor, Thomas Mercer, with +his family of several young daughters. + +On a pleasant morning, balmy with the presage of coming summer, as the +two pioneers, David T. Denny and Thomas Mercer, wended, their way to +their task of cutting timber, they observed some of the cattle lying +down in an open space, and heard the tinkling bell of one of the little +band wandering about cropping fresh spring herbage in the edge of the +woods. They looked with a feeling of affection at the faithful dumb +creatures who were to aid in affording sustenance, as well as a sort of +friendly companionship in the lonely wilds. + +After a long, sunny day spent in swinging the ax, whistling, singing and +chatting, they returned to their cabins as the shadows were deepening in +the mighty forest. + +[Illustration: LOG CABIN IN THE SWALE] + +In the first cabin there was considerable anxiety manifested by the +mistress of the same, revealed in the conversation at the supper +table: + + "David," said she, "there was something wrong with the cattle + today; I heard a calf bawl as if something had caught it and + 'Whiteface' came up all muddy and distressed looking." + + "Is that so? Did you look to see what it was?" + + "I started to go but the baby cried so that I had to come back. A + little while before that I thought I heard an Indian halloo and + looked out of the door expecting to see him come down to the + trail, but I did not see anything at all." + + "What could it be? Well, it is so dark now in the woods that I + can't see anything; I will have to wait until tomorrow." + +Early the next morning, David went up to the place where he had seen the +calves the day before, taking "Towser," a large Newfoundland dog with +him, also a long western rifle he had brought across the plains. + +Not so many rods away from the cabin he found the remnants of a calf +upon which some wild beast had feasted the day previous. + +There were large tracks all around easily followed, as the ground was +soft with spring rains. Towser ran out into the thick timber hard after +a wild creature, and David heard something scratch and run up a tree and +thought it must be a wild cat. + +No white person had ever seen any larger specimen of the feline race in +this region. + +He stepped up to a big fir log and walked along perhaps fifty feet and +looking up a giant cedar tree saw a huge cougar glaring down at him with +great, savage yellow eyes, crouching motionless, except for the +incessant twitching, to and fro, of the tip of its tail, as a cat does +when watching a mouse. + +Right before him in so convenient a place as to attract his attention, +stood a large limb which had fallen and stuck into the ground alongside +the log he was standing on, so he promptly rested his gun on it, but it +sank into the soft earth from the weight of the gun and he quickly drew +up, aiming at the chest of the cougar. + +The gun missed fire. + +Fearing the animal would spring upon him, he walked back along the log +about twenty feet, took a pin out of his coat and picked out the tube, +poured in fresh powder from his powder horn and put on a fresh cap. + +All the time the yellow eyes watched him. + +Advancing again, he fired; the bullet struck through its vitals, but +away it went bolting up the tree quite a distance. Another bullet was +rammed home in the old muzzle loader. The cougar was dying, but still +held on by its claws stuck in the bark of the tree, its head resting on +a limb. Receiving one more shot in the head it let go and came hurtling +down to the ground. + +Towser was wild with savage delight and bit his prostrate enemy many +times, chewing at the neck until it was a mass of foam, but not once did +his sharp teeth penetrate the tough, thick hide. + +Hurrying back, David called for Mercer, a genial man always ready to +lend a hand, to help him get the beast out to the cabin. The two men +found it very heavy, all they could stagger under, even the short +distance it had to be carried. + +As soon as the killing of the cougar was reported in the settlement, two +miles away, everybody turned out to see the monster. + +Mrs. Catherine Blaine, the school teacher, who had gone home with the +Mercer children, saw the animal and marveled at its size. + +Henry L. Yesler and all the mill hands repaired to the spot to view the +dead monarch of the forest, none of whom had seen his like before. Large +tracks had been seen in various places but were credited to timber +wolves. This cougar's forearm measured the same as the leg of a large +horse just above the knee joint. + +Such an animal, if it jumped down from a considerable height, would +carry a man to the ground with such force as to stun him, when he could +be clawed and chewed up at the creature's will. + +While the curious and admiring crowd were measuring and guessing at the +weight of the cougar, Mr. Yesler called at the cabin. He kept looking +about while he talked and finally said, "You are quite high-toned here, +I see your house is papered," at which all laughed good-naturedly. Not +all the cabins were "papered," but this one was made quite neat by means +of newspapers pasted on the walls, the finishing touch being a border of +nothing more expensive than blue calico. + +At last they were all satisfied with their inspection of the first +cougar and returned to the settlement. + +A moral might be pinned here: if this cougar had not dined so +gluttonously on the tender calf, which no doubt made excellent veal, +possibly he would not have come to such a sudden and violent end. + +Had some skillful taxidermist been at hand to mount this splendid +specimen of Felis Concolor, the first killed by a white man in this +region, it would now be very highly prized. + +Some imagine that the danger of encounters with cougars has been +purposely exaggerated by the pioneer hunters to create admiring respect +for their own prowess. This is not my opinion, as I believe there is +good reason to fear them, especially if they are hungry. + +They are large, swift and agile, and have the advantage in the dense +forest of the northwest Pacific coast, as they can station themselves in +tall trees amid thick foliage and pounce upon deer, cattle and human +beings. + +Several years after the killing of the first specimen, a cow was caught +in the jaw by a cougar, but wrenched herself away in terror and pain +and ran home with the whole frightened herd at her heels, into the +settlement of Seattle. + +The natives have always feared them and would much rather meet a bear +than a cougar, as the former will, ordinarily, run away, while the +latter is hard to scare and is liable to follow and spring out of the +thick undergrowth. + +In one instance known to the pioneers first mentioned in this chapter, +an Indian woman who was washing at the edge of a stream beat a cougar +off her child with a stick, thereby saving its life. + +In early days, about 1869 or '70, a Mr. T. Cherry, cradling oats in a +field in Squowh Valley, was attacked by a cougar; holding his cradle +between him and the hungry beast, he backed toward the fence, the animal +following until the fence was reached. A gang of hogs were feeding just +outside the enclosure and the cougar leaped the fence, seized one of the +hogs and ran off with it. + +A saloon-keeper on the Snohomish River, walking along the trail in the +adjacent forest one day with his yellow dog, was startled by the sudden +accession to their party of a huge and hungry cougar. The man fled +precipitately, leaving the dog to his fate. The wild beast fell to and +made a meal of the hapless canine, devouring all but the tip of his +yellow tail, which his sorrowing master found near the trail the next +day. + +A lonely pioneer cabin on the Columbia River was enclosed by a high +board fence. One sunny day as the two children of the family were +playing in the yard, a cougar sprang from a neighboring tree and caught +one of the children; the mother ran out and beat off the murderous +beast, but the child was dead. + +She then walked six or seven miles to a settlement carrying the dead +child, while leading the other. What a task! The precious burden, the +heavier load of sorrow, the care of the remaining child, the dread of a +renewed attack from the cougar and the bodily fatigue incident to such a +journey, forming an experience upon which it would be painful to dwell. + +Many more such incidents might be given, but I am reminded at this point +that they would appropriately appear in another volume. + +Since the first settlement there have been killed in King County nearly +thirty of these animals. + +C. Brownfield, an old settler on Lake Union, killed several with the aid +of "Jack," a yellow dog which belonged to D. T. Denny for a time, then +to A. A. Denny. + +C. D. Boren, with his dog, killed others. + +Moses Kirkland brought a dog from Louisiana, a half bloodhound, with +which Henry Van Asselt hunted and killed several cougars. + +D. T. Denny killed one in the region occupied by the suburb of Seattle +known as Ross. It had been dining off mutton secured from Dr. H. A. +Smith's flock of sheep. It was half grown and much the color of a deer. + +Toward Lake Washington another flock of sheep had been visited by a +cougar, and Mr. Wetmore borrowed D. T. Denny's little dog "Watch," who +treed the animal, remaining by it all night, but it escaped until a trap +was set, when, being more hungry than cautious, it was secured. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +PIONEER CHILD LIFE. + + +The very thought of it makes the blood tingle and the heart leap. No +element was wanting for romance or adventure. Indians, bears, panthers, +far journeys, in canoes or on horseback, fording rivers, camping and +tramping, and all in a virgin wilderness so full of grandeur and +loveliness that even very little children were impressed by the +appearance thereof. The strangeness and newness of it all was hardly +understood by the native white children as they had no means of +comparing this region and mode of life with other countries and customs. + +Traditions did not trouble us; the Indians were generally friendly, the +bears were only black ones and ran away from us as fast as their furry +legs would carry them; the panthers did not care to eat us up, we felt +assured, while there was plenty of venison to be had by stalking, and on +a journey we rode safely, either on the pommel of father's saddle or +behind mother's, clinging like small kittens or cockleburs. + +Familiarity with the coquettish canoe made us perfectly at home with it, +and in later years when the tenderfoot arrived, we were convulsed with +inextinguishable laughter at what seemed to us an unreasoning terror of +a harmless craft. + +[Illustration: WHERE WE WANDERED LONG AGO] + +Ah! we lived close to dear nature then! Our play-grounds were the brown +beaches or the hillsides covered with plumy young fir trees, the alder +groves or the slashings where we hacked and chopped with our little +hatchets in imitation of our elders or the Father of His Country and +namesake of our state. Running on long logs, the prostrate trunks of +trees several hundred feet long, and jumping from one to another was +found to be an exhilarating pastime. + +When the frolicsome Chinook wind came singing across the Sound, the boys +flew home built kites of more or less ambitious proportions and the +little girls ran down the hills, performing a peculiar skirt dance by +taking the gown by the hem on either side and turning the skirt half +over the head. Facing the wind it assumed a balloonlike inflation very +pleasing to the small performer. It was thought the proper thing to let +the hair out of net or braids at the time, as the sensation of air +permeating long locks was sufficient excuse for its "weirdness" as I +suppose we would have politely termed it had we ever heard the word. +Instead we were more likely to be reproved for having such untidy heads +and perhaps reminded that we looked as wild as Indians. "As wild as +Indians," the poor Indians! How they admired the native white children! +Without ceremony they claimed blood brotherhood, saying, "You were born +in our 'illahee' (country) and are our 'tillicum' (people). You eat the +same food, will grow up here and belong to us." + +Often we were sung to sleep at night by their "tamanuse" singing, as we +lived quite near the bank below which many Indians camped, on Elliott +Bay. + +I never met with the least rudeness or suffered the slightest injury +from an Indian except on one occasion. Walking upon the beach one day +three white children drew near a group of Indian camps. Almost deserted +they were, probably the inhabitants had gone fishing; the only being +visible was a boy about ten years of age. Snarling out some bitter words +in an unknown tongue, he flung a stone which struck hard a small head, +making a slight scalp wound. Such eyes! they fairly glittered with +hatred. We hurried home, the victim crying with the pain inflicted, and +learned afterward that the boy was none of our "tillicum" but a stranger +from the Snohomish tribe. What cruel wrong had he witnessed or suffered +to make him so full of bitterness? + +The Indian children were usually quite amiable in disposition, and it +seemed hard to refuse their friendly advances which it became necessary +to do. In their primitive state they seemed perfectly healthy and happy +little creatures. They never had the toothache; just think of that, ye +small consumers of colored candies! Unknown to them was the creeping +horror that white children feel when about to enter the terrible +dentist's den. They had their favorite fear, however, the frightful +"statalth," or "stick siwash," that haunted the great forest. As near as +we could ascertain, these were the ghosts of a long dead race of savages +who had been of gigantic stature and whose ghosts were likewise very +tall and dreadful and very fond of chasing people out of the woods on +dark nights. Plenty of little white people know what the sensation is, +produced by imagining that something is coming after them in the dark. + +I have seen a big, brawny, tough looking Indian running as fast as he +could go, holding a blazing pitchwood torch over his head while he +glanced furtively over his shoulder for the approaching statalth. + +Both white and Indian children were afraid of the Northern Indians, +especially the Stickeens, who were head-takers. + +We were seldom panic stricken; born amid dangers there seemed nothing +novel about them and we took our environment as a matter of course. We +were taught to be courageous but not foolhardy, which may account for +our not getting oftener in trouble. + +The boys learned to shoot and shoot well at an early age, first with +shot guns, then rifles. Sometimes the girls proved dangerous with +firearms in their hands. A sister of the writer learned to shoot off the +head of a grouse at long range. A girl schoolmate, when scarcely grown, +shot and killed a bear. My brothers and cousin, Wm. R. Boren, were good +shots at a tender age and killed numerous bears, deer, grouse, +pheasants, ducks, wild pigeon, etc., in and about the district now +occupied by the city of Seattle. + +The wild flowers and the birds interested us deeply and every spring we +joyfully noted the returning bluebirds and robins, the migrating wren +and a number of other charming feathered friends. The high banks, not +then demolished by grades, were smothered in greenery and hung with +banners of bloom every succeeding season. + +We clambered up and down the steep places gathering armfuls of lillies +(trillium), red currant (ribes sanguineum), Indian-arrow-wood (spiraea), +snowy syringa (philadelphus) and blue forgetmenots and the yellow +blossoms of the Oregon grape (berberis glumacea and aquifolium), which +we munched with satisfaction for the _soursweet_, and the scarlet +honeysuckle to bite off the honeyglands for a like purpose. + +The salmonberry and blackberry seasons were quite delightful. To plunge +into the thick jungle, now traversed by Pike Street, Seattle, was a +great treat. There blackberries attained Brobdignagian hugeness, rich +and delicious. + +On a Saturday, our favorite reward for lessons and work well done, was +to be allowed to go down the lovely beach with its wide strip of +variegated shingle and bands of brown, ribbed sand, as far as the +"three big stones," no farther, as there were bears, panthers and +Indians, as hereinbefore stated, inhabiting the regions round about. + +One brilliant April day we felt very brave, we were bigger than ever +before, five was quite a party, and the flowers were O! so enchanting a +little farther on. Two of us climbed the bank to gather the tempting +blossoms. + +Our little dog, "Watch," a very intelligent animal, took the lead; +scarcely had we gained the top and essayed to break the branch of a wild +currant, gay with rose colored blossoms, when Watch showed unusual +excitement about something, a mysterious something occupying the +cavernous depths of an immense hollow log. With his bristles up, rage +and terror in every quivering muscle, he was slowly, very slowly, +backing toward us. + +Although in the woods often, we had never seen him act so before. We +took the hint and to our heels, tumbled down the yielding, yellow bank +in an exceedingly hasty and unceremonious manner, gathered up our party +of thoroughly frightened youngsters and hurried along the sand homeward, +at a double quick pace. + +Hardly stopping for a backward glance to see if the "something" was +coming after us, we reached home, safe but subdued. + +Not many days after the young truants were invited down to an Indian +camp to see the carcass of a cougar about nine feet long. There it lay, +stretched out full length, its hard, white teeth visible beyond the +shrunken lips, its huge paws quite helpless and harmless. + +It is more than probable that this was the "something" in the great +hollow log, as it was killed in the vicinity of the place where our +stampede occurred. + +Evidently Watch felt his responsibility and did the best he could to +divert the enemy while we escaped. + +The dense forest hid many an unseen danger in early days and it +transpired that I never saw a live cougar in the woods, but even a dead +one may produce real old fashioned fright in a spectator. + +Having occasion, when attending the University, at the age of twelve, to +visit the library of that institution, a strange adventure befell me; +the selection of a book absorbed my mind very fully and I was unprepared +for a sudden change of thought. Turning from the shelves, a terrible +sight met my eyes, a ferocious wild beast, all its fangs exhibited, in +the opposite corner of the room. How did each particular hair stand +upright and perspiration ooze from every pore! A moment passed and a +complete collapse of the illusion left the victim weak and disgusted; it +was only the stuffed cougar given to the Faculty to be the nucleus of a +great collection. + +The young Washingtonians, called "clam-diggers," were usually well fed, +what with venison, fish, grouse and berries, game of many kinds, and +creatures of the sea, they were really pampered, in the memory of the +writer. But it is related by those who experienced the privations +incident to the first year or two of white settlement, that the children +were sometimes hungry for bread, especially during the first winter at +Alki. Fish and potatoes were plentiful, obtained from the Indians, syrup +from a vessel in the harbor, but bread was scarce. On one occasion, a +little girl of one of the four white families on Elliott Bay, was +observed to pick up an old crust and carry it around in her pocket. +When asked what she intended to do with that crust, with childish +simplicity she replied, "Save it to eat with syrup at dinner." Not able +to resist its delicious flavor she kept nibbling away at the crust until +scarcely a crumb remained; its dessicated surface had no opportunity to +be masked with treacle. + +To look back upon our pioneer menu is quite tantalizing. + +The fish, of many excellent kinds, from the "salt-chuck," brought fresh +and flapping to our doors, in native baskets by Indian fishermen, cooked +in many appetizing ways; clams of all sizes from the huge bivalves +weighing three-quarters of a pound a piece to the tiny white soup clam; +sustain me, O my muse, if I attempt to describe their excellence. Every +conceivable preparation, soup, stew, baked, pie, fry or chowder was +tried with the happiest results. The Puget Sound oyster, not the stale, +globe-trotting oyster of however aristocratic antecedents, the enjoyment +in eating of which is chiefly as a reminiscence, but the fresh western +oyster, was much esteemed. + +The crab, too, figured prominently on the bill of fare, dropped alive in +boiling water and served in scarlet, _a la naturel_. + +A pioneer family gathered about the table enjoying a feast of the +stalk-eyed crustaceans, were treated to a little diversion in this wise. +The room was small, used for both kitchen and diningroom, as the house +boasted of but two or three rooms, consequently space was economized. + +A fine basket of crabs traded from an Indian were put in a tin pan and +set under the table; several were cooked, the rest left alive. As one of +the children was proceeding with the dismemberment necessary to extract +the delicate meat, as if to seek its fellows, the crab slipped from her +grasp and slid beneath the table. Stooping down she hastily seized her +crab, as she supposed, but to her utter astonishment it seemed to have +come to life, it _was_ alive, kicking and snapping. In a moment the +table was in an uproar of crab catching and wild laughter. The mother of +the astonished child declares that to this day she cannot help laughing +whenever she thinks of the crab that came to life. + +It was to this home that John and Sarah Denny, and their little +daughter, Loretta, came to visit their son, daughter and the +grandchildren, in the winter of 1857-8. + +Grandmother was tall and straight, dressed in a plain, dark gown, black +silk apron and lace cap; her hair, coal black, slightly gray on the +temples; her eyes dark, soft and gentle. She brought a little treat of +Oregon apples from their farm in the Waldo Hills, to the children, who +thought them the most wonderful fruit they had ever seen, more desirable +than the golden apples of Hesperides. + +We were to return with them, joyful news! What visions of bliss arose +before us! new places to see and all the nice things and good times we +children could have at grandfather's farm. + +When the day came, in the long, dark canoe, manned by a crew of Indians, +we embarked for Olympia, the head of navigation, bidding "good-bye" to +our friends, few but precious, who watched us from the bank, among whom +were an old man and his little daughter. + +A few days before he had been sick and one of the party sent him a +steaming cup of ginger and milk which, although simple, had proved +efficacious; ere we reached our home again he showed his gratitude in a +substantial manner, as will be seen farther on. + +At one beautiful resting place, the canoe slid up against a strip of +shingle covered with delicate shells; we were delighted to be allowed to +walk about, after sitting curled up in the bottom of the canoe for a +long time, to gather crab, pecten and periwinkle shells, even extending +our ramble to a lovely grove of dark young evergreens, standing in a +grassy meadow. + +The first night of the journey was spent in Steilacoom. It was March of +1858 and it was chilly traveling on the big salt water. We were cold and +hungry but the keeper of the one hotel in the place had retired and +refused to be aroused, so we turned to the only store, where the +proprietor received us kindly, brought out new blankets to cover us +while we camped on the floor, gave us bread and a hot oyster stew, the +best his place afforded. His generous hospitality was never forgotten by +the grateful recipients who often spoke of it in after years. + +I saw there a "witches' scene" of an old Indian woman boiling devilfish +or octopus in a kettle over a campfire, splendidly lit against the gloom +of night, and all reflected in the water. + +At the break of day we paddled away over the remainder of the +salt-chuck, as the Indians call the sea, until Stetchas was reached. +Stetchas is "bear's place," the Indian name for the site of Olympia. + +From thence the mail stage awaited us to Cowlitz Landing. The trip over +this stretch of country was not exactly like a triumphal progress. The +six-horse team plunged and floundered, while the wagon sank up to the +hub in black mud; the language of the driver has not been recorded. + +At the first stop out from Olympia, the Tilley's, famous in the first +annals, entertained us. At a bountiful and appetizing meal, one of the +articles, boiled eggs, were not cooked to suit Grandfather John Denny. +With amusing bluntness he sent the chicken out to be killed before he +ate it, complaining that the eggs were not hard enough. Mrs. Tilly made +two or three efforts and finally set the dish down beside him saying, +"There, if that isn't hard enough you don't deserve to have any." + +The long rough ride ended at Warbass' Landing on the Cowlitz River, a +tributary of the Columbia, and another canoe trip, this time on a swift +and treacherous stream, was safely made to Monticello, a mere little +settlement. A tiny steamboat, almost microscopic on the wide water, +carried us across the great Columbia with its sparkling waves, and up +the winding Willamette to Portland, Oregon. + +From thence the journey progressed to the falls below Oregon City. + +At the portage, we walked along a narrow plank walk built up on the side +of the river bank which rose in a high rounded hill. Its noble outline +stood dark with giant firs against a blue spring sky; the rushing, +silvery flood of the Willamette swept below us past a bank fringed with +wild currants just coming into bloom. + +At the end of the walk there stood a house which represented itself as a +resting place for weary travelers. We spent the night there but Alas! +for rest; the occupants were convivial and "drowned the shamrock" all +night long; as no doubt they felt obliged to do for wasn't it "St. +Patrick's Day in the mornin'?" + +Most likely we three, the juveniles, slumbered peacefully until aroused +to learn that we were about to start "sure enough" for grandfather's +farm in the Waldo Hills. + +At length the log cabin home was reached and our interest deepened in +everything about. So many flowers to gather as they came in lively +processional, blue violets under the oaks, blue-flags all along the +valley; such great, golden buttercups, larkspurs, and many a wildling we +scarcely called by any name. + +All the affairs of the house and garden, field and pasture seemed by us +especially gotten up, for our amusement and we found endless +entertainment therein. + +If a cheese was made or churning done we were sure to be "hanging +around" for a green curd or paring, a taste of sweet butter or a chance +to lift the dasher of the old fashioned churn. The milking time was +enticing, too, and we trotted down to the milking pen with our little +tin cups for a drink of fresh, warm milk from the fat, lowing kine, +which fed all day on rich grasses and waited at the edge of the flower +decked valley for the milkers with their pails. + +As summer advanced our joys increased, for there were wild strawberries +and such luscious ones! no berries in after years tasted half so good. + +Some artist has portrayed a group of children on a sunny slope among the +hills, busy with the scarlet fruit and called it "The Strawberry of +Memory"; such was the strawberry of that summer. + +One brilliant June day when all the landscape was steeped in sunshine we +went some distance from home to gather a large supply. It is needless to +say that we, the juvenile contingent, improved the opportunity well; and +when we sat at table the following day and grandfather helped us to +generous pieces of strawberry "cobbler" and grandmother poured over them +rich, sweet cream, our satisfaction was complete. It is likely that if +we had heard of the boy who wished for a neck as long as a giraffe so +that he could taste the good things all the way down, we would have +echoed the sentiment. + +Mentioning the giraffe, of the animal also we probably had no knowledge +as books were few and menageries, none at all. + +No lack was felt, however, as the wild animals were numerous and +interesting. The birds, rabbits and squirrels were friendly and +fearless then; the birds were especially loved and it was pleasing to +translate their notes into endearments for ourselves. + +But the rolling suns brought round the day when we must return to our +native heath on Puget Sound. Right sorry were the two little +"clam-diggers" to leave the little companion of delightful days, and +grandparents. With a rush of tears and calling "good-bye! good-bye!" as +long as we could see or hear we rode away in a wagon, beginning the long +journey, full of variety, back to the settlement on Elliott Bay. + +Ourselves, and wagon and team purchased in the "web-foot" country, were +carried down the Willamette and across the sweeping Columbia on a +steamer to Monticello. There the wagon was loaded into a canoe to ascend +the Cowlitz River, and we mounted the horses for a long day's ride, one +of the children on the pommel of father's saddle, the other perched +behind on mother's steed. + +The forest was so dense through which we rode for a long distance that +the light of noonday became a feeble twilight, the way was a mere +trail, the salal bushes on either side so tall that they brushed the +feet of the little riders. The tedium of succeeding miles of this weird +wilderness was beguiled by the stories, gentle warnings and +encouragement from my mother. + +The cicadas sang as if it were evening, the dark woods looked a little +fearful and I was advised to "Hold on tight and keep awake, there are +bears in these woods." + +The trail led us to the first crossing of the Cowlitz River, where +father hallooed long and loud for help to ferry us over, from a lonely +house on the opposite shore, but only echo and silence returned. The +deep, dark stream, sombre forest and deserted house made an eerie +impression on the children. + +The little party boarded the ferryboat and swimming the horses, +alongside crossed without delay. + +The next afternoon saw us nearing the crossing of the Cowlitz again at +Warbass Landing. + +The path crossed a pretty open space covered with ripe yellow grass and +set around with giant trees, just before it vanished in the hurrying +stream. + +Father rode on and crossed, quite easily, the uneven bed of the swift +river, with its gravelly islands and deep pools. + +When it came our turn, our patient beast plunged in and courageously +advanced to near the middle of the stream, wavered and stood still and +seemed about to go down with the current. How distinctly the green, +rapid water, gravelly shoals and distant bank with its anxious onlookers +is photographed on my memory's page! + +Only for a moment did the brave animal falter and then sturdily worked +her way to the shore. Mr. Warbass, with white face and trembling voice, +said "I thought you were gone, sure." His coat was off and he had been +on the point of plunging in to save us from drowning, if possible. +Willing hands helped us down and into the hospitable home, where we were +glad to rest after such a severe trial. A sleepless night followed for +my mother, who suffered from the reaction common to such experience, +although not panic stricken at the time of danger. + +It was here I received my first remembered lesson in "meum et tuum." +While playing under the fruit trees around the house I spied a peach +lying on the ground, round, red and fair to see. I took it in to my +mother who asked where I got it, if I had asked for it, etc. I replied I +had found it outdoors. + +"Well, it isn't yours, go and give it to the lady and never pick up +anything without asking for it." + +A lesson that was heeded, and one much needed by children in these days +when individual rights are so little regarded. + +The muddy wagon road between this point and Olympia over which the teams +had struggled in the springtime was now dry and the wagon was put +together with hope of a fairly comfortable trip. It was discovered in so +doing that the tongue of the vehicle had been left at Monticello. Not to +be delayed, father repaired to the woods and cut a forked ash stick and +made it do duty for the missing portion. + +At Olympia we were entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Dickinson with whom we +tarried as we went to Oregon. + +My mother preferred her steed to the steamer plying on the Sound; that +same trip the selfsame craft blew up. + +On horseback again, we followed the trail from Olympia to the Duwampsh +River, over hills and hollows, out on the prairie or in the dark forest, +at night putting up at the house of a hospitable settler. From thence we +were told that it was only one day's travel but the trail stretched out +amazingly. Night, and a stormy one, overtook the hapless travelers. + +The thunder crashed, the lightning flamed, sheets of rain came down, but +there was no escape. + +A halt was called at an open space in a grove of tall cedar trees, a +fire made and the horses hitched under the trees. + +The two children slept snugly under a fir bark shed made of slabs of +bark leaned up against a large log. Father and mother sat by the fire +under a cedar whose branches gave a partial shelter. Some time in the +night I was awakened by my mother lying down beside me, then slept +calmly on. + +The next morning everything was dripping wet and we hastened on to the +Duwampsh crossing where lived the old man who stood on the bank at +Seattle when we started. + +What a comfort it was to the cold, wet, hungry, weary quartette to be +invited into a dry warm place! and then the dinner, just prepared for +company he had been expecting; a bountiful supply of garden vegetables, +beets, cabbage, potatoes, a great dish of beans and hot coffee. These +seemed veritable luxuries and we partook of them with a hearty relish. + +A messenger was sent to Seattle to apprise our friends of our return, +two of them came to meet us at the mouth of the Duwampsh River and +brought us down the bay in a canoe to the landing near the old laurel +(Madrona) tree that leaned over the bank in front of our home. + +The first Fourth of July celebration in which I participated took place +in the old M. E. Church on Second Street, Seattle, in 1861. + +Early in the morning of that eventful day there was hurrying to and fro +in the Dennys' cottage, on Seneca Street, embowered in flowers which +even luxuriant as they were we did not deem sufficient. The nimble +eldest of the children was sent to a flower-loving neighbor's for +blossoms of patriotic hues, for each of the small Americans was to carry +a banner inscribed with a strong motto and wreathed with red, white and +blue flowers. Large letters, cut from the titles of newspapers spelled +out the legends on squares of white cotton, "Freedom for All," "Slavery +for none," "United we stand, divided we fall," each surrounded with a +heavy wreath of beautiful flowers. + +Arrived at the church, we found ourselves a little late, the orator was +just rounding the first of his eloquent periods; the audience, +principally men, turned to view the disturbers as they sturdily marched +up the aisle to a front seat, and seeing the patriotic family with their +expressive emblems, broke out in a hearty round of applause. Although +very young we felt the spirit of the occasion. + +The first commencement exercises at the University took place in 1863. +It was a great event, an audience of about nine hundred or more, +including many visitors from all parts of the Sound, Victoria, B. C., +and Portland, Oregon, gathered in the hall of the old University, then +quite new. + +I was then nine years of age and had been trained to recite "Barbara +Frietchie," it "goes without the saying" that it was received with +acclaim, as feeling ran high and the hearts of the people burned within +them for the things that were transpiring in the South. + +Still better were they pleased and much affected by the singing of "Who +Will Care for Mother Now," by Annie May Adams, a lovely young girl of +fifteen, with a pure, sympathetic, soprano voice and a touching +simplicity of style. + +How warm beat the hearts of the people on this far off shore, as at the +seat of war, and even the children shouted, sang and wept in sympathy +with those who shed their lifeblood for their country. + +The singing of "Red, White and Blue" by the children created great +enthusiasm; war tableaux such as "The Soldier's Farewell," "Who Goes +There?" "In Camp," were well presented and received with enthusiastic +applause, and whatever apology might have been made for the status of +the school, there was none to be made for its patriotism. + +Our teachers were Unionists without exception and we were taught many +such things; "Rally Round the Flag" was a favorite and up went every +right hand and stamped hard every little foot as we sang "Down With the +Traitor and Up With the Stars" with perhaps more energy than music. + +The children of my family, with those of A. A. Denny's, sometimes held +"Union Meetings;" at these were speeches made that were very intense, as +we thought, from the top of a stump or barrel, each mounting in turn to +declaim against slavery and the Confederacy, to pronounce sentence of +execution upon Jeff. Davis, Captain Semmes, et al. in a way to have made +those worthies uneasy in their sleep. Every book, picture, story, +indeed, every printed page concerning the war was eagerly scanned and I +remember sitting by, through long talks of Grandfather John Denny with +my father, to which I listened intently. + +We finally burned Semmes in effigy to express our opinion of him and +named the only poor, sour apple in our orchard for the Confederate +president. + +For a time there were two war vessels in the harbor, the "Saranac" and +"Suwanee," afterwards wrecked in Seymour Narrows. The Suwanee was +overturned and sunk by the shifting of her heavy guns, but was finally +raised. Both had fine bands that discoursed sweet music every evening. +We stood on the bank to listen, delighted to recognize our favorites, +national airs and war songs, from "Just Before the Battle, Mother" to +"Star Spangled Banner." + +Other beautiful music, from operas, perhaps, we enjoyed without +comprehending, although we did understand the stirring strains with +which we were so familiar. + +In those days the itinerant M. E. ministers were often the guests of my +parents and many were the good natured jokes concerning the fatalities +among the yellow-legged chickens. + +On one occasion a small daughter of the family, whose discretion had not +developed with her hospitality, rushed excitedly into the sitting room +where the minister was being entertained and said, "Mother, which +chicken shall I catch?" to the great amusement of all. + +One of the reverend gentlemen declared that whenever he put in an +appearance, the finest and fattest of the flock immediately lay down +upon their backs with their feet in the air, as they knew some of them +would have to appear on the festal board. + +Like children everywhere we lavished our young affections on pets of +many kinds. Among these were a family of kittens, one at least of which +was considered superfluous. An Indian woman, who came to trade clams for +potatoes, was given the little "pish-pish," as she called it, with which +she seemed much pleased, carrying it away wrapped in her shawl. + +Her camp was a mile away on the shore of Elliott Bay, from whence it +returned through the thick woods, on the following day. Soon after she +came to our door to exhibit numerous scratches on her hands and arms +made by the "mesachie pish-pish" (bad cat), as she now considered it. My +mother healed her wounds by giving her some "supalel" (bread) esteemed a +luxury by the Indians, they seldom having it unless they bought a little +flour and made ash-cake. + +Now this same ash-cake deserves to rank with the southern cornpone or +the western Johnny cake. Its flavor is sweet and nut-like, quite unlike +that of bread baked in an ordinary oven. + +The first Christmas tree was set up in our own house. It was not then a +common American custom; we usually called out "Christmas Gift," +affecting to claim a present after the Southern "Christmas Gif" of the +darkies. One early Christmas, father brought in a young Douglas fir tree +and mother hung various little gifts on its branches, among them, bright +red Lady apples and sticks of candy; that was our very first Christmas +tree. A few years afterward the whole village joined in loading a large +tree with beautiful and costly articles, as times were good, fully one +thousand dollars' worth was hung upon and heaped around it. + +When the fourth time our family returned to the donation claim, now a +part of the city of Seattle, we found a veritable paradise of flowers, +field and forest. + +The claim reached from Lake Union to Elliott Bay, about a mile and a +half; a portion of it was rich meadow land covered with luxuriant grass +and bordered with flowering shrubs, the fringe on the hem of the mighty +evergreen forest covering the remainder. + +Hundreds of birds of many kinds built their nests here and daily +throughout the summer chanted their hymns of praise. Robins and wrens, +song-sparrows and snow birds, thrushes and larks vied with each other in +joyful song. + +The western meadow larks wandered into this great valley, adding their +rich flute-like voices to the feathered chorus. + +Woodpeckers, yellow hammers and sap-suckers, beat their brave tattoo on +the dead tree trunks and owls uttered their cries from the thick +branches at night. Riding to church one Sunday morning we beheld seven +little owls sitting in a row on the dead limb of a tall fir tree, about +fourteen feet from the ground. Winking and blinking they sat, silently +staring as we passed by. + +Rare birds peculiar to the western coast, the rufous-backed hummingbird, +like a living coal of fire, and the bush-titmouse which builds a curious +hanging nest, also visited this natural park. + +The road we children traveled from this place led through heavy forest +and the year of the drouth (1868) a great fire raged; we lost but little +time on this account; it had not ceased before we ran past the tall firs +and cedars flaming far above our heads. + +Returning from church one day, when about half way home, a huge fir tree +fell just behind us, and a half mile farther on we turned down a branch +road at the very moment that a tree fell across the main road usually +traveled. + +The game was not then all destroyed; water fowl were numerous on the +lakes and bays and the boys of the family often went shooting. + +Rather late in the afternoon of a November day, the two smaller boys, +taking a shot gun with them, repaired to Lake Union, borrowed a little +fishing canoe of old Tsetseguis, the Indian who lived at the landing, +and went to look at some muskrat traps they had set. + +It was growing quite dark when they thought of returning. For some +reason they decided to change places in the canoe, a very "ticklish" +thing to do. When one attempted to pass the other, over went the little +cockle-shell and both were struggling in the water. The elder managed to +thrust one arm through the strap of the hunting bag worn by the younger +and grasped him by the hair, said hair being a luxuriant mass of long, +golden brown curls. Able to swim a little he kept them afloat although +he could not keep the younger one's head above water. His cries for help +reached the ears of a young man, Charles Nollop, who was preparing to +cook a beefsteak for his supper--he threw the frying pan one way while +the steak went the other, and rushed, coatless and hatless, to the +rescue with another man, Joe Raber, in a boat. + +An older brother of the two lads, John B. Denny, was just emerging from +the north door of the big barn with two pails of milk; hearing, as he +thought, the words "I'm drowning," rather faintly from the lake, he +dropped the pails unceremoniously and ran down to the shore swiftly, +found only an old shovel-nosed canoe and no paddle, seized a picket and +paddled across the little bay to where the water appeared agitated; +there he found the boys struggling in the water, or rather one of them, +the other was already unconscious. Arriving at the same time in their +boat Charley Nollop and Joe Raber helped to pull them out of the water. +The long golden curls of the younger were entangled in the crossed +cords of the shot pouch and powder flask worn by the older one, who was +about to sink for the last time, as he was exhausted and had let go of +the younger, who was submerged. + +Their mother reached the shore as the unconscious one was stretched upon +the ground and raised his arms and felt for the heart which was beating +feebly. + +The swimmer walked up the hill to the house; the younger, still +unconscious, was carried, face downward, into a room where a large fire +was burning in an open fireplace, and laid down before it on a rug. +Restoratives were quickly applied and upon partial recovery he was +warmly tucked in bed. A few feverish days followed, yet both escaped +without serious injury. + +Mrs. Tsetseguis was much grieved and repeated over and over, "I told the +Oleman not to lend that little canoe to the boys, and he said, 'O it's +all right, they know how to manage a canoe.'" + +Tsetseguis was also much distressed and showed genuine sympathy, +following the rescued into the house to see if they were really safe. + +The games we played in early days were often the time-honored ones +taught us by our parents, and again were inventions of our own. During +the Rebellion we drilled as soldiers or played "black man;" by the +latter we wrought excitement to the highest pitch, whether we chased the +black man, or returning the favor, he chased us. + +The teeter-board was available when the neighbor's children came; the +wonder is that no bones were broken by our method. + +The longest, strongest, Douglas fir board that could be found, was +placed across a large log, a huge stone rested in the middle and the +children, boys and girls, little and big, crowded on the board almost +filling it; then we carefully "waggled" it up and down, watching the +stone in breathless and ecstatic silence until weary of it. + +Our bravado consisted in climbing up the steepest banks on the bay, or +walking long logs across ravines or on steep inclines. + +The surroundings were so peculiar that old games took on new charms when +played on Puget Sound. Hide-and-seek in a dense jungle of young Douglas +firs was most delightful; the great fir and cedar trees, logs and +stumps, afforded ample cover for any number of players, from the sharp +eyes of the one who had been counted "out" with one of the old rhymes. + +The shadow of danger always lurked about the undetermined boundary of +our play-grounds, wild animals and wild men might be not far beyond. + +We feared the drunken white man more than the sober Indian, with much +greater reason. Even the drunken Indian never molested us, but usually +ran "amuck" among the inhabitants of the beach. + +Neither superstitious nor timid we seldom experienced a panic. + +The nearest Indian graveyard was on a hill at the foot of Spring Street, +Seattle. It sloped directly down to the beach; the bodies were placed in +shallow graves to the very brow and down over the face of the sandy +bluff. All this hill was dug down when the town advanced. + +The children's' graves were especially pathetic, with their rude +shelters, to keep off the rain of the long winter months, and upright +poles bearing bits of bright colored cloth, tin pails and baskets. + +Over these poor graves no costly monuments stood, only the winds sang +wild songs there, the sea-gulls flitted over, the fair, wild flowers +bloomed and the dark-eyed Indian mothers tarried sometimes, human as +others in their sorrow. + +But the light-hearted Indian girls wandered past, hand in hand, singing +as they went, pausing to turn bright friendly eyes upon me as they +answered the white child's question, "Ka mika klatawa?" (Where are you +going?) + +"O, kopa yawa" (O, over yonder), nodding toward the winding road that +stretched along the green bank before them. Without a care or sorrow, +living a healthy, free, untrammeled life, they looked the impersonation +of native contentment. + +The social instinct of the pioneers found expression in various ways. + +A merry party of pioneer young people, invited to spend the evening at a +neighbor's, were promised the luxury of a candy-pull. The first batch +was put on to boil and the assembled youngsters engaged in old fashioned +games to while away the time. Unfortunately for their hopes the molasses +burned and they were obliged to throw it away. There was a reserve in +the jug, however, and the precious remainder was set over the fire and +the games went on again. Determined to succeed, the hostess stirred, +while an equally anxious and careful guest held the light, a small +fish-oil lamp. The lamp had a leak and was set on a tin plate; in her +eagerness to light the bubbling saccharine substance and to watch the +stirring-down, she leaned over a little too far and over went the lamp +directly into the molasses. + +What consternation fell upon them! The very thought of the fish-oil was +nauseating, and that was all the molasses. There was no candy-pulling, +there being no grocery just around the corner where a fresh supply might +be obtained, indeed molasses and syrup were very scarce articles, +brought from a great distance. + +The guests departed, doubtless realizing that the "best laid plans ... +gang aft agley." + +The climate of Puget Sound is one so mild that snow seldom falls and ice +rarely forms as thick as windowglass, consequently travel, traffic and +amusement are scarcely modified during the winter, or more correctly, +the rainy season. Unless it rained more energetically than usual, the +children went on with their games as in summer. + +The long northern twilight of the summertime and equally long evenings +in winter had each their special charm. + +The pictures of winter scenes in eastern magazines and books looked +strange and unfamiliar to us, but as one saucy girl said to a tenderfoot +from a blizzard-swept state, "We see more and deeper snow everyday than +you ever saw in your life." + +"How is that?" said he. + +"On Mount Rainier," she answered, laughing. + +Even so, this magnificent mountain, together with many lesser peaks, +wears perpetual robes of snow in sight of green and blooming shores. + +When it came to decorating for Christmas, well, we had a decided +advantage as the evergreens stood thick about us, millions of them. Busy +fingers made lavish use of rich garlands of cedar to festoon whole +buildings; handsome Douglas firs, reaching from floor to ceiling, +loaded with gay presents and blazing with tapers, made the little +"clam-diggers'" eyes glisten and their mouths water. In the garden the +flowers bloomed often in December and January, as many as twenty-six +varieties at once. + +One New Year's day I walked down the garden path and plucked a fine, red +rosebud to decorate the New Year's cake. + +The pussy-willows began the floral procession of wildlings in January +and the trilliums and currants were not far behind unless a "cold snap" +came on in February and the flowers _dozed on_, for they never seem to +_sleep_ very profoundly here. By the middle of February there was, +occasionally, a general display of bloom, but more frequently it began +about the first of March, the seasons varying considerably. + +The following poem tells of favorite flowers gathered in the olden time +"i' the spring o' the year!" + +In the summertime we had work as well as play, out of doors. The garden +surrounding our cottage in 1863, overflowed with fruits, vegetables and +flowers. Nimble young fingers were made useful in helping to tend them. +Weeding beds of spring onions and lettuce, sticking peas and beans, or +hoeing potatoes, were considered excellent exercise for young muscles; +no need of physical "culchuah" in the school had dawned upon us, as +periods of work and rest, study and play, followed each other in +healthful succession. + +Having a surplus of good things, the children often went about the +village with fresh vegetables and flowers, more often the latter, +generous bouquets of fragrant and spicy roses and carnations, sweet peas +and nasturtiums, to sell. Two little daughters in pretty, light print +dresses and white hats were flower girls who were treated like little +queens. + +There was no disdain of work to earn a living in those days; every +respectable person did something useful. + +For recreation, we went with father in the wagon over the "bumpy" road +when he went to haul wood, or perhaps a long way on the county road to +the meadow, begging to get off to gather flowers whenever we saw them +peeping from their green bowers. + +Driving along through the great forest which stood an almost solid green +wall on either hand, we called "O father, stop! stop; here is the +lady-slipper place." + +"Well, be quick, I can't wait long." + +Dropping down to the ground, we ran as fast as our feet could carry us +to gather the lovely, fragrant orchid, Calypso Borealis, from its mossy +bed. + +When the ferns were fully grown, eight or ten feet high, the little +girls broke down as many as they could drag, and ran along the road, +great ladies, with long green trains! + +[Illustration: A VISIT FROM OUR TILLICUM] + +We found the way to the opening in the woods, where in the midst +thereof, grandfather sat making cedar shingles with a drawing knife. +Huge trees lay on the ground, piles of bolts had been cut and the heap +of shingles, clear and straight of the very best quality, grew apace. + +Very tall and grand the firs and cedars stood all around, like stately +pillars with a dome of blue sky above; the birds sang in the underbrush +and the brown butterflies floated by. + +Among all the beautiful things, there was one to rivet the eye and +attention; a dark green fir tree, perhaps thirty feet high, around whose +trunk and branches a wild honeysuckle vine had twined itself from the +ground to the topmost twig. + +It had the appearance of a giant candelabrum, with the orange-scarlet +blossoms that tipped the boughs like jets of flame. + +Many a merry picnic we had in blackberry time, taking our lunch with us +and spending the day; sometimes in an Indian canoe we paddled off +several miles, to Smith's Cove or some other likely place. + +It was necessary to watch the tide at the Cove or the shore could not be +reached across the mudflat. + +Once ashore how happy we were; clambering about over the hills, +gathering the ripe fruit, now and then turning about to gaze at the +snowy sentinel in the southern sky, grand old Mount Rainier. + +How wide the sparkling waters of the bay! the sky so pure and clear, the +north wind so cool and refreshing. The plumy boughs stirred gently +overhead and shed for us the balsamic odors, the flowers waved a welcome +at our feet. + +In the winter there was seldom any "frost on the rills" or "snow on the +hills," but when it did come the children made haste to get all the +possible fun out of the unusual pastime of coasting. Mothers were glad +when the Chinook wind came and ate up the snow and brought back the +ordinary conditions, as the children were frequently sick during a cold +spell. + +Now the tenderfoot, as the newcomer is called in the west, is apt to be +mistaken about the Chinook wind; there is a wet south wind and a dry +south wind on Puget Sound. The Chinook, as the "natives" have known it, +is a dry wind, clears the sky, and melts and dries up the snow at once. +Wet south wind, carrying heavy rain often follows after snow, and slush +reigns for a few days. Perhaps this is a distinction without much +difference. + +Storms rarely occur, I remember but two violent ones in which the gentle +south wind seemed to forget its nature and became a raging gale. + +The first occurred when I was a small child. The wind had been blowing +for some time, gradually increasing in the evening, and as night +advanced becoming heavier every hour. Large stones were taken up from +the high bank on the bay and piled on the roof with limbs broken from +tough fir trees. Thousands of giant trees fell crashing and groaning to +the ground, like a continuous cannonade; the noise was terrific and we +feared for our lives. + +At midnight, not daring to leave the house, and yet fearing that it +might be overthrown, we knelt and commended ourselves to Him who rules +the storm. + +About one o'clock the storm abated and calmly and safely we lay down to +sleep. + +The morning broke still and clear, but many a proud monarch of the +forest lay prone upon the ground. + +Electric storms were very infrequent; if there came a few claps of +thunder the children exclaimed, "O mother, hear the thunder storm!" + +"Well, children, that isn't much of a thunder storm; you just ought to +hear the thunder in Illinois, and the lighting was a continual blaze." + +Our mother complained that we were scarcely enough afraid of snakes; as +there are no deadly reptiles on Puget Sound, we thrust our hands into +the densest foliage or searched the thick grass without dread of a +lurking enemy. + +The common garter snake, a short, thick snake, whose track across the +dusty roads I have seen, a long lead-colored snake and a small brown +one, comprise the list known to us. + +Walking along a narrow trail one summer day, singing as I went, the song +was abruptly broken, I sprang to one side with remarkable agility, a +long, wiggling thing "swished" through the grass in an opposite +direction. Calling for help, I armed myself with a club, and with my +support, boldly advanced to seek out the serpent. When discovered we +belabored it so earnestly that its head was well-nigh severed from its +body. + +It was about five feet long, the largest I had even seen, whether +poisonous or not is beyond my knowledge. + +There are but two spiders known to be dangerous, a white one and a small +black "crab" spider. A little girl acquaintance was bitten by one of +these, it was supposed, though not positively known; the bite was on the +upper arm and produced such serious effects that a large piece of flesh +had to be removed by the surgeon's knife and amputation was narrowly +escaped. + +A mysterious creature inhabiting Lake Union sometimes poisoned the young +bathers. One of my younger brothers was bitten on the knee, and a +lameness ensued, which continued for several months. There was only a +small puncture visible with a moderate swelling, which finally passed +away. + +The general immunity from danger extends to the vegetable world, but +very few plants are unsafe to handle, chief among them being the Panax +horridum or "devil's club." + +So the happy pioneer children roamed the forest fearlessly and sat on +the vines and moss under the great trees, often making bonnets of the +shining salal leaves pinned together with rose thorns or tiny twigs, +making whistles of alder, which gave forth sweet and pleasant sounds if +successfully made; or in the garden making dolls of hollyhocks, mallows +and morning glories. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +MARCHING EXPERIENCES OF ESTHER CHAMBERS. + + +The following thrilling account, written by herself and first published +in the "Weekly Ledger" of Tacoma, Washington, of June 3, 1892, is to be +highly commended for its clear and forcible style: + + "My father, William Packwood, left Missouri in the spring of 1844 + with my mother and four children in an ox team to cross the + plains to Oregon. + + "My mother's health was very poor when we started. She had to be + helped in and out of the wagon, but the change by traveling + improved her health so much that she gained a little every day, + and in the course of a month or six weeks she was able to get up + in the morning and cook breakfast, while my father attended his + team and did other chores. I had one sister older than myself, + and I was only six years old. My little sister and baby brother, + who learned to walk by rolling the water keg as we camped nights + and mornings, were of no help to my sick mother. + + "The company in which we started was Captain Gilliam's and we + traveled quite a way when we joined Captain Ford's company, + making upward of sixty wagons in all. + + "Our company was so large that the Indians did not molest us, + although we, after letting our stock feed until late in the + evening, had formed a large corral of the wagons, in which we + drove the cattle and horses, and stood guard at night, as the + Indians had troubled small companies by driving off their stock, + but they were not at all hostile to us. + + "We came to a river and camped. The next morning we were visited + by Indians, who seemed to want to see us children, so we were + terribly afraid of the Indians, and, as father drove in the river + to cross, the oxen got frightened at the Indians and tipped the + wagon over, and father jumped and held the wagon until help came. + We thought the Indians would catch us, so we jumped to the lower + part of the box, where there was about six inches of water. The + swim and fright I will never forget--the Indian fright, of + course. + + "I was quite small but I do remember the beautiful scenery. We + could see antelope, deer, rabbits, sage hens and coyotes, etc., + and in the camp we children had a general good time. All joined + at night in the plays. One night Mr. Jenkins' boys told me to ask + their father for his sheath knife to cut some sticks with. When + using it on the first stick, I cut my lefthand forefinger nail + and all off, except a small portion of the top of my finger, and + the scar is still visible. + + "On another evening we children were having a nice time, when a + boy by the name of Stephen, who had been in the habit of hugging + around the children's shoulders and biting them, hugged me and + bit a piece almost out of my shoulder. This was the first time I + remember seeing my father's wrath rise on the plains, as he was a + very even-tempered man. He said to the offending boy, 'If you do + that again, I shall surely whip you.' + + "A few days later we came to a stream that was deep but narrow. + Mr. Stephens, this boy's father, was leading a cow by a rope tied + around his waist and around the cow's head for the purpose of + teaching the rest of the cattle to swim. The current being very + swift, washed the cow down the stream, dragging the man. The + women and children were all crying at a great rate, when one of + the party went to Mrs. Stephens, saying, 'Mr. Stephens is + drowning.' 'Well,' she replied, 'there is plenty of more men + where he came from.' Mr. Stephens, his cow and all lodged safely + on a drift. They got him out safely, but he did not try to swim a + stream with a cow tied to his waist again. + + "We could see the plains covered with buffalo as we traveled + along, just like the cattle of our plains are here. + + "One day a band of buffalo came running toward us, and one jumped + between the wheel cattle and the wheels of the wagon, and we came + very near having a general stampede of the cattle; so when the + teamsters got their teams quieted down, the men, gathering their + guns, ran and killed three of the buffalo, and all of the company + were furnished with dried beef, which was fine for camping. + + "We came to a place where there was a boiling spring that would + cook eggs, and a short distance from this was a cold, clear + spring, and a short distance from this was a heap of what looked + like ashes, and when we crossed it the cattle's' feet burned until + they bawled. Another great sight I remember of seeing was an oil + spring. + + "Then we reached the Blue Mountains. Snow fell as we traveled + through them. + + "We then came down in the Grande Ronde valley, and it seemed as + if we had reached a paradise. It was a beautiful valley. Here + Indians came to trade us dried salmon, la camas cakes and dried + crickette cakes. We traded for some salmon and the la camas + cakes, but the crickette cakes we did not hanker after. + + "A man in one train thought he would fool an Indian chief, so he + told the Indian he would swap his girl sixteen years old, for a + couple of horses. The bargain was made and he took the horses, + and the Indian hung around until near night. When the captain of + the company found out that the Indian was waiting for his girl to + go with him, the captain told the man that we might all be killed + through him, and made him give up the horses to the chief. The + Indian chief was real mad as he took the horses away. + + "We went on down to The Dalles, where we stopped a few days. + There was a mission at The Dalles where two missionaries lived, + Brewer and Waller. We emigrants traded some of our poor, tired + cattle off to them for some of their fat beef, and some coarse + flour chopped on a hand mill, like what we call chop-feed + nowadays. + + "Then we had to make a portage around the falls, and the women + and children walked. I don't remember the distance, but we walked + until late at night, and waded in the mud knee-deep, and my + mother stumped her toe and fell against a log or she might have + gone down into the river. We little tots fell down in the mud + until you'd have thought we were pigs. + + "The men drove around the falls another way, and got out of + provisions. + + "My father, seeing a boat from the high bluffs, going down to the + river hailed it, and when he came down to the boat he found us. + He said he had gotten so hungry that he killed a crow and ate it, + and thought it tasted splendid. He took provisions to the cattle + drivers and we came on down the river to Fort Vancouver. It + rained on us for a week and our bedclothes were drenched through + and through, so at night we would open our bed of wet clothes and + cuddle in them as though we were in a palace car, and all kept + well and were not sick a day in all of our six months' journey + crossing the plains. My mother gained and grew fleshy and strong. + + "Next we arrived in what is now the city of Portland, which then + consisted of a log cabin and a few shanties. We stayed there a + few days to dry our bedding. + + "Then we moved out to the Tualatin Plains, where we wintered in a + barn, with three other families, each family having a corner of + the barn, with fire in the center and a hole in the roof for the + smoke to go out. My father went to work for a man by the name of + Baxton, as all my father was worth in money, I think, was + twenty-five cents, or something like that. He arrived with a cow, + calf and three oxen, and had to support his family by mauling + rails in the rain, to earn the wheat, peas and potatoes we ate, as + that was all we could get, as bread was out of the question. + Shortly after father had gone to work my little brother had a + rising on his cheek. It made him so sick that mother wanted us + little tots to go to the place where my father was working. It + being dark, we got out of our way and went to a man, who had an + Indian woman, by the name of Williams. In the plains there are + swales that fill up with water when the heavy rains come, and they + are knee deep. I fell in one of these, but we got to Mr. Williams + all right. But when we found our neighbor we began crying, so Mr. + Williams persuaded us to come in and he would go and get father, + which he did, and father came home with us to our barn house. My + little brother got better, and my father returned to his work + again. + + "Among the settlers on the Tualatin Plains were Mr. Lackriss, Mr. + Burton, Mr. Williams and General McCarver, who had settled on + farms before we came, and many a time did we go to their farms + for greens and turnips, which were something new and a great + treat to us. + + "Often the Indians used to frighten us with their war dances, as + we called them, as we did not know the nature of Indians, so, as + General McCarver was used to them, we often asked him if the + Indians were having a war dance for the purpose of hostility. He + told us, that was the way they doctored their sick. + + "General McCarver settled in Tacoma when the townsite was first + laid out and is well known. He died in Tacoma, leaving a family. + + "After we moved out to the Tualatin Plains, many a night when + father was away we lay awake listening to the dogs barking, + thinking the Indians were coming to kill us, and when father came + home I felt safe and slept happily. + + "In the spring of 1845 my father took a nice place in West + Yamhill, about two miles from the Willamette River and we had + some settlers around, but our advantage for a school was poor, as + we were too far from settlers to have a school, so my education, + what little I have, was gotten by punching the cedar fire and + studying at night, but, however, we were a happy family, hoping + to accumulate a competency in our new home. + + "One dog, myself and elder sister and brother were carrying water + from our spring, which was a hundred yards or more from our + house, when a number of Indians came along. We were afraid of + them and all hid. I hid by the trail, when an old Indian, seeing + me, yelled out, 'Adeda!' and I began to laugh, but my sister was + terribly frightened and yelled at me to hide, so they found all + of us, but they were friendly to us, only a wretched lot to + steal, as they stole the only cow we had brought through, leaving + the calf with us without milk. + + "My father was quite a hunter, and deer were plenty, and once in + a while he would get one, so we did get along without milk. + During the first year we could not get bread, as there were no + mills or places to buy flour. A Canadian put up a small chop mill + and chopped wheat something like feed is chopped now. + + "My father being a jack-of-all-trades, set to work and put up a + turning lathe and went to making chairs, and my mother and her + little tots took the straw from the sheaves and braided and made + hats. We sold the chairs and hats and helped ourselves along in + every way we could and did pretty well. + + "One day, while my father's lathe was running, some one yelled + 'Stop!' A large black bear was walking through the yard. The men + gave him a grand chase, but bruin got away from them. + + "My father remained on this place until the spring of 1847, when + he and a number of other families decided to move to Puget Sound. + During that winter they dug two large canoes, lashed them + together as a raft or flatboat to move on, and sold out their + places, bought enough provisions to last that summer, and loading + up with their wagons, families and provisions, started for Puget + Sound. + + "Coming up the Cowlitz River was a hard trip, as the men had to + tow the raft over rapids and wade. The weather was very bad. + Arriving at what was called the Cowlitz Landing we stayed a few + days and moved out to the Catholic priest's place (Mr. Langlay's) + where the women and children remained while the men went back to + Oregon for our stock. They had to drive up the Cowlitz River by a + trail, and swim the rivers. My father said it was a hard trip. + + "On arriving at Puget Sound we found a good many settlers. Among + them, now living that I know of, was Jesse Ferguson, on Bush + Prairie. We stayed near Mr. Ferguson's place until my father, + McAllister and Shager, who lives in Olympia, took them to places + in the Nisqually bottoms. My father's place then, is now owned by + Isaac Hawk. + + "Mr. McAllister was killed in the Indian war of 1855-6, leaving + a family of a number of children, of whom one is Mrs. Grace Hawk. + The three families living in the bottom were often frightened by + the saucy Indians telling us to leave, as the King George men + told them to make us go, so on one occasion there came about 300 + Indians in canoes. They were painted and had knives, and said + they wanted to kill a chief that lived by us by the name of + Quinasapam. When he saw the warriors coming he came into our + house for protection, and all of the Indians who could do so came + in after him. Mr. Shager and father gave them tobacco to smoke. + So they smoked and let the chief go and took their departure. If + there were ever glad faces on this earth and free hearts, ours + were at that time. + + "My father and Mr. McAllister took a job of bursting up old + steamboat boilers for Dr. Tolmie for groceries and clothing, and + between their improving their farms they worked at this. While + they were away the Indians' dogs were plenty, and, like wolves, + they ran after everything, including our only milch cow, and she + died, so there was another great loss to us, but after father got + through with the old boilers, he took another job of making + butter firkins for Dr. Tolmie and shingles also. This was a great + help to the new settlers. The Hudson Bay Company was very kind to + settlers. + + "In 1849 the gold fever began to rage and my father took the + fever. I was standing before the fire, listening to my mother + tell about it, when my dress caught fire, and my mother and Mrs. + Shager got the fire extinguished, when I found my hair was off on + one side of my head and my dress missing. I felt in luck to save + my life. + + "In the spring of 1850 all arrangements were made for the + California gold mines and we started by land in an ox team. We + went back through Oregon and met our company in Yamhill, where we + had lived. They joined our company of about thirty wagons. + Portions of our journey were real pleasant, but the rest was + terribly rough. In one canyon we crossed a stream seventy-five + times in one day, and it was the most unpleasant part of our + journey. + + "After two months' travel we arrived in Sacramento City, Cal., + and found it tolerably warm for us, not being used to a warm + climate. + + "Father stayed in California nearly two years. Our fortune was + not a large one. We returned by sea to Washington and made our + home in the Nisqually Bottom. + + "On April 30, 1854, I was married to a man named G. W. T. Allen + and lived with him on Whidby Island seven years, during which + time four children were born. We finally agreed to disagree. Only + one of our children by my first husband is living. She is Mrs. L. + L. Andrews of Tacoma, Washington. He is in the banking business. + On July 7, 1863, I was married to my present husband, McLain + Chambers. We have lived in Washington ever since. We have had + nine children. Our oldest, a son, I. M. Chambers, lives on a farm + near Roy, Wash. Others are married and live at Roy, Yelm and + Stampede. We have two little boys at home. Have lost three within + the last three years. We live a mile and a half southeast of Roy, + Wash. + + "I have lived here through all the hostilities of the war. Dr. + Tolmie sent wagons to haul us to the fort for safety. My present + husband was a volunteer and came through with a company of + scouts, very hungry. They were so hungry that when they saw my + mother take a pan of biscuits from the stove, one of them saying, + 'Excuse me, but we are almost starved,' grabbed the biscuits from + the pan, eating like a hungry dog. + + "I suppose you have heard of the murder of Col. I. N. Ebey of + Whidby Island? He was beheaded by the Northern or Fort Simpson + Indians and his family and George Corliss and his wife made their + escape from the house by climbing out of the windows, leaving + even their clothes and bushwhacking it until morning. I was on + Whidby Island about seven miles from where he was killed, that + same night, alone with my little girl, now Mrs. Andrews. When one + of our neighbors called at the gate and said, 'Colonel Ebey was + beheaded last night,' I said 'Captain Barrington, it cannot be, + as I have been staying here so close by alone without being + disturbed.' Shortly after the Indians came armed, and one of + them came up to me, shaking a large knife in his hand saying, + 'Iskum mika tenas and klatawa copa stick or we will kill you.' I + said to him, 'I don't understand; come and go to the field where + my husband and an Indian boy are,' but they refused to go and + left me soon. I started for the field with my child, and the + further I went the more scared I got until when I reached my + husband, I cried like a child. He ran to the house and sent a + message to the agent on the reservation, but they skipped out of + his reach, and never bothered me again, but I truly suffered as + though I were sick, although I stayed alone with a boy eight or + nine years old." + +"A BOY OF SEVEN WHO CAME TO SHOW HIS FATHER THE WAY." + +In the same columns with the preceding sketch appeared R. A. Bundy's +story of his juvenile adventures: + + "I will try to give an account of my trip crossing the plains in + the pioneer days. You need not expect a flowery story, as you + will observe before I get through. The chances for an education + in those days were quite different from what they are today. Here + goes with my story, anyway: + + "My father left his old home in the State of Illinois in the + month of April in the year 1865. As I was a lad not seven years + of age until the 27th of the month, of course I was obliged to + go along to show the old man the way. + + "We were all ready to start, and a large number of others that + were going in the same train had gathered at our place. There + were also numerous relatives present to bid us good-bye, and warn + us of the big undertaking we were about to embark in, and tell of + the dangers we would encounter. But a lad of my age always thinks + it is a great thing to go along with a covered wagon, especially + if 'pap' is driving. I crawled right in and did not apprehend + anything dangerous or wearisome about a short trip like that. I + will have to omit dates and camping places, as I was too young to + pay any attention to such things; and you may swear that I was + always around close. Everything went along smoothly with me for a + short time. Riding in a covered wagon was a picnic, but my + father's team was composed of both horses and cattle, and the + oxen soon became tenderfooted and had to be turned loose and + driven behind the wagons. + + "About this time A. L. McCauley, whose account of the trip has + appeared in the 'Ledger,' fell in with the train. He thought + himself a brave man and as he had had a 'right smart' experience + in traveling, especially since the war broke out, and was used to + going in the lead and had selected a great many safe camping + places for himself during that time, the men thought he would be + a good man to hide from the Indians, so he was elected captain. + He went ahead and showed my old man the way. I being now relieved + of this responsibility, stayed behind the train and drove the + tenderfooted oxen. When McCauley found a camping place I always + brought up the rear. + + "That was not quite so much of a picnic as some of us old-timers + have nowadays at Shilo. I found out after driving oxen a few + days, that I was going 'with' the old man. + + "For a week or two my job was not as bad as some who have never + tried it might imagine. But six months of travel behind the + wagons barefooted, over sagebrush, sand toads, hot sand and + gravel, rattlesnakes, prickly pears, etc., made me sometimes wish + I had gone back home when the old dog did, or that 'pap' had sold + me at the sale with the other property. In spite of my + disagreeable situation, however, I kept trudging alone, bound to + stay with the crowd. I thought my lot was a rough one when I saw + other boys older than myself riding and occasionally walking just + for pleasure. I could not see where the fun came in, and thought + that if the opportunity was offered I could stand it to ride all + the time. I thought I had the disadvantage until the Indians got + all the stock. + + "I remember one night that our famous captain said he had found + us a good, safe camping place. The next morning the people were + all right but the horses and cattle were all gone. For a while + it looked like the whole train would have to walk. I did not care + so much for myself but I thought it would be hard on those that + were not used to it. + + "During the day the men got a part of the horses back, and I was + feeling pretty good, thinking the rest would get to ride, but + along in the afternoon my joyful mood was suddenly changed. All + the men, excepting a few on the sick list, were out after the + stock, when the captain and some other men came running into camp + as fast as their horses could carry them. The captain got off his + horse, apparently almost scared to death. He told the women that + they would never see their men again; that the Indians were + coming from every direction. That was in the Wood River country, + and it made me feel pretty bad after walking so far. We were all + frightened, and some boys and myself found a hiding place in a + wagon. We got under a feather bed and waited, expecting every + minute that the Indians would come. They did not come so we came + out and found that the captain was feeling rather weak and had + laid down to have a rest. Shortly after we came out, one of the + men came in leading an Indian pony. It was then learned that the + captain and some of the men with him had been running from some + of the men belonging to the train, thinking they were Indians. + They found all their horses but two and captured two Indian + ponies. The next day we journeyed on and I felt more like + walking, knowing that the others could ride. We did not meet with + any other difficulty that seriously attracted my attention. + + "We arrived on the Touchet at Waitsburg in October or November, + and don't you forget it, I had spent many a hot, tiresome day, + having walked all the way across the plains." + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +AN OLYMPIA WOMAN'S TRIP ACROSS THE PLAINS IN 1851. + + +Mrs. C. J. Crosby of Olympia, Washington, contributes this narrative of +her personal experience, to the literature of the Northwest: + + "It was in the early spring of '51 that my father took the + emigrant fever to come West, to what was then termed Oregon + Territory, and get some of Uncle Sam's land which was donated to + any one who had the perseverance and courage to travel six long + weary months, through a wild, savage country with storms and + floods as well as the terrible heat and dust of summer to contend + against. Our home was in Covington, Indiana, and my father, Jacob + Smith, with his wife and five children, myself being the eldest, + started from there the 24th day of March for a town called + Council Bluffs on the Missouri River, where all the emigrants + bought their supplies for their long journey in the old time + prairie schooner. Our train was composed of twenty-four wagons + and a good number of people. A captain was selected, whose duty + it was to ride ahead of the train and find good camping place for + the day or night, where there was plenty of wood, water and + grass. + + "The first part of our journey we encountered terrible floods, + little streams would suddenly become raging torrents and we were + obliged to cross them in hastily-constructed boats; two incidents + I distinctly remember. + + "We had traveled all day and in the evening came to a stream + called the Elk Horn, where we had some trouble and only part of + the train crossed that night--we were among the number; well, we + got something to eat as best we could, and being very tired all + went to bed as early as possible; the river was a half mile from + where we camped, but in the night it overflowed and the morning + found our wagons up to the hubs in water, our cooking utensils + floating off on the water, except those that had gone to the + bottom, and all the cattle had gone off to find dry ground, and + for a while things in general looked very discouraging. However, + the men started out at daylight in search of the stray cattle, + soon found them and hitched them to the wagons and started for + another camping place, and to wait until we were joined by those + who were left behind the night before. We all rejoiced to leave + that river as soon as possible, but not many days expired before + we came to another river which was worse than the first one--it + was exceedingly high and very swift, but by hard work and + perseverance they got all the wagons across the river without any + accident, with the exception of my father's, which was the last + to cross. They got about half way over when the provision wagon + slid off the boat and down the river it went. Well, I can hardly + imagine how any one could understand our feelings unless they had + experienced such a calamity; to see all the provisions we had in + the world floating away before our eyes and not any habitation + within many hundred miles of us; for a while we did indeed feel + as though the end had come this time sure. We could not retrace + our footsteps, or go forward without provisions; each one in the + train had only enough for their own consumption and dare not + divide with their best friend; however, while they were debating + what was best to do, our wagon had landed on a sandbar and the + men waded out and pulled it ashore. It is needless for me to say + there was great rejoicing in the camp that day; of course, nearly + everything in the wagon was wet, but while in camp they were + dried out. Fortunately the flour was sealed up in tin cans; the + corn meal became sour before it got dry, but it had to be used + just the same. In a few days we were in our usual spirits, but + wondering what new trials awaited us, and it came all too soon; + the poor cattle all got poisoned from drinking alkali water; at + first they did not know what to do for them, but finally someone + suggested giving them fat bacon, which brought them out all right + in a day or two. Then their feet became very sore from constant + traveling and thorns from the cactus points, and we would be + obliged to remain in camp several days for them to recruit. + + "As we proceeded farther on our way we began to fear the Indians, + and occasionally met strolling bands of them all decked out with + bows and arrows, their faces hideous with paint and long feathers + sticking in their top-knots, they looked very fierce and savage; + they made us understand we could not travel through their country + unless we paid them. So the men gave them some tobacco, beads and + other trinkets, but would not give them any ammunition; they went + away angry and acted as though they would give us trouble. + + "Some of the men stood guard every night to protect the camp as + well as the horses and cattle, as they would drive them off in + the night and frequently kill them. + + "Thus we traveled from day to day, ever anxious and on the + lookout for a surprise from some ambush by the wayside, they were + so treacherous, but kind Providence protected us and we escaped + the fate of the unfortunate emigrants who preceded us. + + "Fortunately there was but little sickness in our train and only + one death, that of my little brother; he was ill about two weeks + and we never knew the cause of his death. At first it seemed an + impossibility to go away and leave him alone by the wayside, and + what could we do without a coffin and not any boards to make one? + A trunk was thought of and the little darling was laid away in + that. The grave had to be very deep so the wild animals could not + dig up the body, and the Indians would plunder the graves, too, + so it was made level with the ground. We felt it a terrible + affliction; it seemed indeed the climax of all we had endured. It + was with sad hearts we once again resumed our toilsome journey. + + "We saw the bones of many people by the wayside, bleaching in the + sun, and it was ever a constant reminder of the dear little one + that was left in the wilderness. However, I must not dwell too + long over this dark side of the picture, as there was much to + brighten and cheer us many times; there were many strange, + beautiful things which were a great source of delight and wonder, + especially the boiling springs, the water so hot it would cook + anything, and within a short distance springs of ice water, and + others that made a noise every few minutes like the puffing of a + steamer. Then there were rocks that resembled unique old castles, + as they came into view in the distance. All alone in the prairie + was one great rock called Independence Rock; it was a mile around + it, half a mile wide and quite high in some places; there were + hundreds of emigrants' names and dates carved on the side of the + rock as high as they could reach. It reminded one of a huge + monument. I wonder if old Father Time has effaced all the names + yet? + + "In the distance we saw great herds of buffalo and deer; the + graceful, swift-footed antelope was indeed a sight to behold, and + we never grew tired of the lovely strange flowers we found along + the road. + + "The young folks, as well as the old, had their fun and jokes, + and in the evening all would gather 'round the campfire, telling + stories and relating the trials and experiences each one had + encountered during the day, or meditating what the next day would + bring forth of weal or woe. Thus the months and days passed by, + and our long journey came to an end when we reached the Dalles on + the Columbia River, where we embarked on the small steamer that + traveled down the river and landed passengers and freight at a + small place called the Cascades. At this place there was a + portage of a half mile; then we traveled on another steamer and + landed in Portland the last day of October, the year 1851, + remained there during the winter and in the spring of 1852 came + to Puget Sound with a number of others who were anxious for some + of Uncle Sam's land. + + "Olympia, a very small village, was the only town on the Sound + except Fort Steilacoom, where a few soldiers were stationed. We + spent a short time in Olympia before going to Whidby Island, + where my father settled on his claim, and we lived there five + years, when we received a patent from the government, but before + our home was completed he had the misfortune to break his arm, + and, not being properly set, he was a cripple the remainder of + his life." + +In 1852 there were a couple of log houses at Alki Point, occupied by Mr. +Denny and others; they called the "town" New York. We went ashore from +the schooner and visited them. + +To the above properly may be added an account published in a Seattle +paper: + + "Mrs. C. J. Crosby, of Olympia, gives the following interesting + sketch of her early days on Whidby Island: + + "As I am an old settler and termed a moss-back by those who have + come later, I feel urged to relate a few facts pertaining to my + early life on Whidby Island in the days of 1852. My father, Jacob + Smith, with his wife and five children, crossed the plains the + year of 1851. We started from Covington, Indiana, on the 24th day + of March and arrived in Portland, Oregon, the last day of + October. + + "We remained there during the winter, coming to Olympia the + spring of 1852, where we spent a short time before going down to + the island. My father settled on a claim near Pen's Cove, and + almost opposite what is now called Coupeville. We lived there + five years, when he sold his claim to Capt. Swift for three + thousand five hundred dollars and we returned to Olympia. + + "The year '52 we found several families living on the island; + also many bachelors who had settled on claims. I have heard my + mother say she never saw the face of a white woman for nine + months. My third sister was the second white child born on the + island. I remember once we did not have any flour or bread for + six weeks or more. We lived on potatoes, salmon and clams. + Finally a vessel came in the Sound bringing some, but the price + per barrel was forty-five dollars and it was musty and sour. + Mother mixed potatoes with the flour so that we could eat it at + all, and also to make it last a long time. + + "There is also another incident impressed on my memory that I + never can forget. One morning an Indian came to the house with + some fish oil to sell, that and tallow candles being the only + kind of light we had in those days. She paid him all he asked for + the oil, besides giving him a present, but he wanted more. He got + very angry and said he would shoot her. She told him to shoot and + took up the fire shovel to him. Meantime she told my brother to + go to a neighbor's house, about half a mile distant, but before + the men arrived the Indian cleared out. However, had it not been + for the kindness of the Indians we would have suffered more than + we did." + +From other published accounts I have culled the following: + + "Peter Smith crossed the plains in 1852 and settled near + Portland. When it was known the Indians would make trouble, Mr. + Smith, being warned by a friendly Indian, took his family to + Fort Steilacoom and joined the 'Home Guard,' but shortly + afterward joined a company of militia and saw real war for three + months. + + "Just before the hostilities in 1855, two Indians visited his + house. One of them was a magnificent specimen of physical manhood + and chief of his tribe. They wanted something to eat. Now several + settlers had been killed by Indians after gaining access to their + houses, but, nothing daunted, Mrs. Smith went to work and + prepared a very fine dinner, and Mr. S. made them sandwiches for + their game bag, putting on an extra allowance of sugar, and + appeared to be as bold as a lion. He also accepted an invitation + to visit their camp, which he did in their company, and formed a + lasting friendship. + + "The mince, fruit and doughnuts did their good work. + + "During the war Mr. Smith had his neck merely bruised by a + bullet. On his return home he found the Indians had been there + before him and stolen his hogs and horses and destroyed his + grain, a loss of eleven hundred dollars, for which he has never + received any pay." + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +CAPT. HENRY ROEDER ON THE TRAIL. + + +Capt. Roeder came by steamer to Portland and thence made his way to +Olympia overland from the mouth of the Cowlitz River. This was in the +winter of 1852. The story of this journey is best told in the words of +the veteran pioneer himself, who has narrated his first experiences in +the then Territory of Oregon as follows: + + "In company with R. V. Peabody, I traveled overland from the + mouth of the Cowlitz, through the mud to Olympia. We started + early in December from Portland. It took us four days to walk + from the Cowlitz River to Olympia, and it was as hard traveling + as I have ever seen. Old residents will remember what was known + as Sanders' Bottom. It was mud almost to your waist. We stopped + one night with an old settler, whose name I cannot now recall, + but whom we all called in those days 'Old Hardbread.' On the + Skookumchuck we found lodging with Judge Ford, and on arriving at + Olympia we put up with Mr. Sylvester, whose name is well known to + all the old residents on the Sound. I remember that at Olympia we + got our first taste of the Puget Sound clam, and mighty glad we + were, too, to get a chance to eat some of them. + + "From Olympia to Seattle we traveled by Indian canoe. I remember + distinctly rounding Alki Point and entering the harbor of Elliott + Bay. I saw what was, perhaps, the first house that was built, + where now stands the magnificent city of Seattle. This was a + cabin that was being erected on a narrow strip of land jutting + out into the bay, which is now right in the heart of Seattle. Dr. + Maynard was the builder. It was situated adjoining the lot at + Commercial and Main Streets, occupied by the old Arlington just + before the fire of 1889. The waters of the Sound lapped the + shores of the narrow peninsula upon which it was built, but since + then the waters have been driven back by the filling of earth, + sawdust and rock, which was put on both sides of the little neck + of land. + + "After a few days' stay here, Peabody and I journeyed by Indian + canoe to Whatcom. We carried our canoe overland to Hood Canal. On + the second day out we encountered a terrible storm and put into + shelter with a settler on the shore of the canal. His name was + O'Haver, and he lived with an Indian wife. We had white turnips + and dried salmon for breakfast and dried salmon and white turnips + for dinner. This bill of fare was repeated in this fashion for + three days, and I want to tell you that we were glad when the + weather moderated and we were enabled to proceed. + + "We were told that we could procure something in the edible line + at Port Townsend, but were disappointed. The best we could + obtain at the stores was some hard bread, in which the worms had + propagated in luxuriant fashion. This food was not so + particularly appetizing, as you may imagine. A settler kindly + took pity on us and shared his slender stock of food. Thence we + journeyed to Whatcom, where I have resided nearly ever since." + +Capt. Roeder told also before he had finished his recital of an +acquaintance he had formed in California with the noted Spanish murderer +and bandit, Joaquin, and his tribe of cutthroats and robbers. Joaquin's +raids and his long career in crime among the mining camps of the early +days of California are part of the history of that state. Capt. Roeder +was traveling horseback on one occasion between Marysville and Rush +Creek. This was in 1851. The night before he left Marysville the sheriff +and a posse had attempted to capture Joaquin and his band. The +authorities had offered a reward of $10,000 for Joaquin and $5,000 for +his men, dead or alive. The sheriff went out from Marysville with a +cigar in his mouth and his sombrero on the side of his head, as if he +were attending a picnic. It was his own funeral, however, instead of a +picnic, for his body was picked out of a fence corner, riddled with +bullets. + + "I was going at a leisurely gait over the mountain road or bridle + path that led from Marysville to Rush Creek," said Capt. Roeder. + "Suddenly, after a bend in the road, I found myself in the midst + of a band of men mounted on bronchos. They were dark-skinned and + of Spanish blood. Immediately I recognized Joaquin and + 'Three-Fingered Jack,' his first lieutenant. My heart thumped + vigorously, and I thought that it was all up with me. I managed + somehow to control myself and did not evince any of the + excitement I felt or give the outlaws any sign that I knew or + suspected who they were. + + "One of the riders, after saluting me in Spanish, asked me where + I was from and whither I was traveling. I told them freely and + frankly, as if the occurrence were an everyday transaction. + Learning that I had just come from Marysville, the seat of their + last outrage, they inquired the news. I told them the truth--that + the camp was in a state of great excitement, due to the late + visit of the outlaw, Joaquin, and his band; that the sheriff had + been murdered and three or four miners and others in the vicinity + had been murdered and robbed. It was Joaquin's pleasant practice + to lariat a man, rob him and cut his throat, leaving the body by + the roadside. They asked me which way Joaquin had gone and I told + them that he was seen last traveling towards Arizona. As a matter + of fact, the outlaw and his band were then traveling in a + direction exactly opposite from that which I had given. + + "My replies apparently pleased them. 'Three-Fingered Jack' + proposed a drink, after asking me which way I traveled. I said, + 'I would have proposed the compliment long ago had I any in my + canteen,' whereat Jack drew his own bottle and offered me a + drink. + + "You may imagine my feelings then. I knew that if they believed I + had recognized them they would give me poison or kill me with a + knife. I took the canteen and drank from it. You may imagine my + joy when I saw Jack lift the bottle to his lips and drain it. + Then I knew that I had deceived them. We exchanged adieus in + Spanish, and that is the last I saw of Joaquin and his associate + murderers." + + + + +PART II. + +MEN, WOMEN AND ADVENTURES + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +SONG OF THE PIONEERS. + + + With faith's clear eye we saw afar + In western sky our empire's star + And strong of heart and brave of soul, + We marched and marched to reach the goal. + Unrolled a scroll, the great gray plains, + And traced thereon our wagon trains, + Our blazing campfires marked the road + As each succeeding night they glowed. + + Gaunt hunger, drouth, fierce heat and cold + Beset us as in days of old + Great dragons sought to swallow down + Adventurous heroes of renown. + There menaced us our tawny foes, + Where any bank or hillock rose; + A cloud of dust or shadows' naught + Seemed ever with some danger fraught. + + Weird mountain ranges crossed our path + And frowned on us in seeming wrath; + Their beetling crags and icy brows + Well might a hundred fears arouse. + Impetuous rivers swirled and boiled, + As though from mischief ever foiled. + At length in safety all were crossed, + Though roughly were our "schooners" tossed. + + With joy we saw fair Puget Sound, + White, glistening peaks set all around. + At Alki Point our feet we stayed, + (The women wept, the children played). + On Chamber's prairie, Whidby's isle, + Duwamish river, mile on mile + Away from these, on lake or bay + The lonely settlers blazed the way + For civilization's march and sway. + + The mountains, forests, bays and streams, + Their grandeur wove into our dreams; + Our thoughts grew great and undismayed, + We toiled and sang or waiting, prayed. + As suns arose and then went down + We gazed on Rainier's snowy crown. + God's battle-tents gleamed in the west, + So pure they called our thoughts above + To heaven's joy and peace and love. + + We found a race tho' rude and wild, + Still tender toward friend or child, + For dark eyes laughed or shone with tears + As joy or sorrow filled the years; + Their black-eyed babes the red men kissed + And captive brothers sorely missed. + With broken hearts, brown mothers wept + When babes away by death were swept. + + Chief Sealth stood the white man's friend, + With insight keen he saw the end + Of struggles vain against a foe + Whose coming forced their overthrow. + For pity oft he freed the slaves, + To reasoning cool he called his braves; + But bitter wrongs the pale-face wrought-- + Revenge and hatred on us brought. + + * * * * * + + With life the woods and waters teemed, + A boundless store we never dreamed, + Of berries, deer and grouse and fish, + Sufficient for a gourmand's wish. + Our dusky neighbors friendly-wise + Brought down the game before our eyes; + They wiled the glittering finny tribe, + Well pleased to trade with many a jibe. + + We lit the forests far and wide + With pitchwood torches, true and tried, + We traveled far in frail canoes, + Cayuses rode, wore Indian shoes, + And clothes of skin, and ate clam stews, + Clam frys and chowder; baked or fried + The clam was then the settler's pride; + "Clam-diggers" then, none dared deride. + + * * * * * + + A sound arose our hearts to thrill, + From whirring saws in Yesler's mill; + The village crept upon the hill. + On many hills our city's spread, + As fair a queen as one that wed + The Adriatic, so 'tis said. + Our tasks so hard are well nigh done-- + Today our hearts will beat as one! + + Each one may look now to the west + For end of days declared the best, + Since sunset here is sunrise there, + Our heavenly home is far more fair. + As up the slope of coming years + Time pushes on the pioneers, + With peace may e'er our feet be shod + And press at last the mount of God. + + E. I. DENNY. + + Seattle, June, 1893. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES AND SKETCHES. + +JOHN DENNY. + + +As elsewhere indicated, only a few of the leading characters will be +followed in their careers. Of these, John Denny is fittingly placed +first. + +John Denny was born of pioneer parents near Lexington, Kentucky, May +4th, 1793. In 1813 he was a volunteer in Col. Richard M. Johnson's +regiment of mounted riflemen, and served through the war, participated +in the celebrated battle of the Thames in Canada, where Tecumseh was +killed and the British army under Proctor surrendered. Disaster fell +upon him, the results of which followed him throughout his life. The +morning gun stampeded the horses in camp while the soldiers were still +asleep, and they ran over John Denny where he lay asleep in a tent, +wounding his knee so that the synovial fluid ran out and also broke +three of his ribs. In 1823 he removed to Putnam County, Indiana, then an +unknown wilderness, locating six miles east of Greencastle, where he +resided for the succeeding twelve years. He is remembered as a leading +man of energy and public spirit. + +In 1835 he removed to Illinois and settled in Knox County, then near the +frontier of civilization, where he lived for the next succeeding +sixteen years, during which time he represented his county in both +branches of the state legislature, serving with Lincoln, Douglas, Baker, +Yates, Washburn and Trumbull, with all of whom he formed warm personal +friendships, which lasted through life, despite political differences. + +In 1851, at an age when most men think they have outlived their +usefulness and seek the repose demanded by their failing physical +strength, accompanied by his children and grandchildren, he braved the +toils and perils of an overland journey to this then remote wilderness +upon the extreme borders of civilization and settled upon a farm in +Marion County, Oregon, while his sons, Arthur A. and David T., took +claims on Elliott Bay and were among the founders of Seattle, where they +command universal respect for their intelligence, integrity and public +spirit, Arthur having represented the territory as delegate in congress +and served several terms in the Territorial Legislature. + +David has held many responsible public positions, including Probate +Judge and Regent of the University, and is respected by all as a +clear-headed and scrupulously honest man and most estimable citizen. + +John Denny remained in Oregon about six years, but held no official +position there, for the reason that he was an uncompromising Whig and +Oregon was overwhelmingly Democratic, including among the leaders of +the Democratic party George H. Williams, Judge Deady, Gov. Gibbs and +much of the best intellect of the state. + +He, however, entered warmly into the political discussions of the times, +and many incidents are remembered and many anecdotes told of the +astonishment and discomfiture of some of the most pretentious public +speakers when meeting the unpretending pioneer farmer in public +discussion. He was a natural orator and had improved his gift by +practice and extensive reading. + +Few professional men were better posted in current history and +governmental philosophy or could make a better use of their knowledge in +addressing a popular audience. + +In 1859 he removed to Seattle, and from that time on to the day of his +death was a recognized leader in every enterprise calculated to promote +the prosperity of the town or advance its educational and social +interests. No public measure, no public meeting to consider public +enterprise, was a success in which he was not a central figure, not as +an assumed director, but as an earnest co-operator, who enthused others +by his own undaunted spirit of enterprise, and when past eighty years of +age his voice was heard stirring up the energies of the people, and by +his example, no less than his precepts, he shamed the listless and +selfish younger men into activity and public spirit. + +When any special legislative aid was desired for this section, John +Denny was certain to be selected to obtain it; by his efforts mainly the +Territorial University was located at this place. + +He passed his long and active life almost wholly upon the frontiers of +civilization, not from any aversion to the refinements and restraints of +social life, for few men possessed higher social qualities or had in any +greater degree the nicer instincts of a gentleman--he held a patent of +nobility under the signet of the Almighty, and his intercourse with +others was ever marked by a courtesy which betokened not only +self-respect but a due regard for the rights and opinions of others. He +was impelled by as noble ambition as ever sought the conquest of empire +or the achievement of personal glory--the subduing of the unoccupied +portions of his country to the uses of man, with the patriotic purpose +of extending his country's glory and augmenting its resources. + +His first care in every settlement was to establish and promote +education, religion and morality as the only true foundation of social +as well as individual prosperity, and with all his courage and manly +strength he rarely, if ever, was drawn into a lawsuit. + +John Denny was of that noble race of men, now nearly extinct, who formed +the vanguard of Western civilization and were the founders of empire. +Their day is over, their vocation ended, because the limit of their +enterprise has been reached. Among the compeers of the same stock were +Dick Johnson, Harrison, Lincoln, Harden and others famous in the history +of the country, who only excelled him in historic note by biding their +opportunities in waiting to reap the fruits of the harvest which they +had planted. He was the peer of the best in all the elements of manhood, +of heart and brain. In all circumstances and surroundings he was a +recognized leader of men, and would have been so honored and so +commanded that leading place in public history had he waited for the +development of the social institutions which he helped to plant in the +Western states, now the seat of empire. All who entered his presence +were instinctively impressed by his manhood. Yet no man was less +pretentious or more unostentatious in his intercourse with others. + +He reverenced his manhood, and felt himself here among men his brethren +under the eye of a common Father. + +He felt that he was bound to work for all like a brother and like a son. + +So he was brave, so he was true, so his integrity was unsullied, so not +a stain dims his memory; so he rebuked vice and detested meanness and +hated with a cordial hate all falsehood, all dishonesty and all +trickery; so he was the chivalrous champion of the innocent and +oppressed; so he was gentle and merciful, because he was working among +a vast family as a brother "recognizing the Great Father, Who sits over +all, Who is forever Truth and forever Love." + +Such words as these were said of him at the time of his death, when the +impressions of his personality were fresh in the minds of the people. + +He entered into rest July 28th, 1875. + +It is within my recollection that the keen criticisms and droll +anecdotes of John Denny were often repeated by his hearers. The power +with which he swayed an audience was something wonderful to behold; the +burning enthusiasm which his oratory kindled, inciting to action, the +waves of convulsive laughter his wit evoked were abundant evidence of +his influence. + +In repartee, he excelled. At one time when A. A. Denny was a member of +the Territorial Legislature, John Denny was on his way to the capital to +interview him, doubtless concerning some important measure; he received +the hospitality of a settler who was a stranger to him and moreover very +curious with regard to the traveler's identity and occupation. At last +this questioning brought forth the remarkable statement that he, John +Denny, had a son in the lunatic ass-ylum in Olympia whom he intended +visiting. + +The questioner delightedly related it afterward, laughing heartily at +the compliment paid to the Legislature. + +In a published sketch a personal friend says: "He was so full of humor +that it was impossible to conceal it, and his very presence became a +mirth-provoking contagion absolutely irresistible in its effects. + +"Let him come when he would, everybody was ready to drop everything else +to listen to a story from Uncle John. + +"He went home to the States during the war, via the Isthmus of Panama. +On the trip down from San Francisco the steamer ran on a rock and stuck +fast. Of course, there was a great fright and excitement, many crying +out 'We shall all be drowned,' 'Lord save us!' etc. Amid it all Uncle +John coolly took in the chances of the situation, and when a little +quiet had been restored so he could be heard by all in the cabin, he +said: 'Well, I reckon there was a fair bargain between me and the +steamship company to carry me down to Panama, and they've got their cash +for it, and now if they let me drown out here in this ornery corner, +where I can't have a decent funeral, I'll sue 'em for damages, and bust +the consarned old company all to flinders.' + +"This had the effect to divert the passengers, and helped to prevent a +panic, and not a life was lost. + +"In early life he had been a Whig and in Illinois had fought many a hard +battle with the common enemy. He had represented his district repeatedly +in the legislature of that state, and he used to tell with pride, and a +good deal of satisfaction, how one day a handful of the Whigs, Old Abe +and himself among the number, broke a quorum of the house by jumping +from a second-story window, thereby preventing the passage of a bill +which was obnoxious to the Whigs. + +"The Democrats had been watching their opportunity, and having secured a +quorum with but few of the Whigs in the house, locked the doors and +proposed to put their measure through. But the Whigs nipped the little +game in the manner related." + +After Lincoln had become President and John Denny had crossed the Plains +and pioneered it in Oregon and Washington Territories, the latter +visited the national capital on important business. + +While there Mr. Denny attended a presidential reception and tested his +old friend's memory in this way: Forbidding his name to be announced, he +advanced in the line and gave his hand to President Lincoln, then +essayed to pass on. Lincoln tightened his grasp and said, "No you don't, +John Denny; you come around back here and we'll have a talk after a +while." + +On the stump he was perfectly at home, never coming off second best. His +ready wit and tactics were sure to stand him in hand at the needed +moment. + +[Illustration: SARAH DENNY, JOHN DENNY, S. LORETTA DENNY] + +In one of the early campaigns of Washington Territory, which was a +triangular combat waged by Republicans, Democrats and "Bolters," John +Denny, who was then a Republican, became one of the third party. At a +political meeting which was held in Seattle, at which I was present, a +young man recently from the East and quite dandyish, a Republican and a +lawyer, made quite a high-sounding speech; after he sat down John Denny +advanced to speak. + +He began very coolly to point out how they had been deceived by the +rascally Republican representative in his previous term of office, and +suddenly pointing his long, lean forefinger directly at the preceding +speaker, his voice gathering great force and intensity, he electrified +the audience by saying, "And no little huckleberry lawyer can blind us +to the facts in the case." + +The audience roared, the "huckleberry lawyer's" face was scarlet and his +curly locks fairly bristled with embarrassment. The hearers were +captivated and listened approvingly to a round scoring of the opponents +of the "bolters." + +He was a fearless advocate of temperance, or prohibition rather, of +woman suffragists when they were weak, few and scoffed at, an +abolitionist and a determined enemy of tobacco. I have seen him take his +namesake among the grandchildren between his aged knees and say, "Don't +ever eat tobacco, John; your grandfather wishes he had never touched +it." His oft-repeated advice was heeded by this grandson, who never +uses it in any form. + +He was tall, slender, with snow-white hair and a speaking countenance +full of the most glowing intelligence. + +When the news came to the little village of Seattle that he had returned +from Washington City, where he had been laboring to secure an +appropriation for the Territorial University, two of his little +grandchildren ran up the hill to meet him; he took off his high silk +hat, his silvery hair shining in the fair sunlight and smiled a +greeting, as they grasped either hand and fairly led him to their home. + +A beautiful tribute from the friend before quoted closes this brief and +inadequate sketch: + + "He sleeps out yonder midway between the lakes (Washington and + Union), where the shadows of the Cascades in the early morning + fall upon the rounded mound of earth that marks his resting + place, and the shadows of the Olympics in the early evening rest + lovingly and caressingly on the same spot; there, where the song + birds of the forest and the wild flowers and gentle zephyrs, + laden with the perfume of the fir and cedar, pay a constant + tribute to departed goodness and true worth." + + +SARAH LATIMER DENNY. + +The subject of this sketch was a Tennessean of an ancestry notable for +staying qualities, religious steadfastness and solid character, as well +as gracious and kindly bearing. + +On her father's side she traced descent from the martyr, Hugh Latimer, +and although none of the name have been called to die at the stake in +the latter days, Washington Latimer, nephew of Sarah Latimer Denny, was +truly a martyr to principle, dying in Andersonville prison during the +Rebellion. + +The prevailing sentiment of the family was patriotic and strongly in +favor of the abolition movement. + +One of the granddaughters pleasurably recalls the vision of Joseph +Latimer, father of Sarah, sitting in his dooryard, under the boughs of a +great Balm of Gilead tree, reading his Bible. + +Left to be the helper of her mother when very young, by the marriage of +her elder sister, she quickly became a competent manager in household +affairs, sensible of her responsibilities, being of a grave and quiet +disposition. + +She soon married a young Baptist minister, Richard Freeman Boren, whose +conversion and call to the ministry were clear and decided. His first +sermon was preached in the sitting room of a private house, where were +assembled, among others, a number of his gay and pleasure-loving +companions, whom he fearlessly exhorted to a holy life. + +His hands were busy with his trade of cabinetmaking a part of the time, +for the support of his family, although he rode from place to place to +preach. + +A few years of earnest Christian work, devoted affection and service to +his family and he passed away to his reward, leaving the young widow +with three little children, the youngest but eighteen months old. + +In her old age she often reverted to their brief, happy life together, +testifying that he never spoke a cross word to her. + +She told of his premonition of death and her own remarkable dream +immediately preceding that event. + +While yet in apparently perfect health he disposed of all his tools, +saying that he would not need them any more. + +One night, toward morning, she dreamed that she saw a horse saddled and +bridled at the gate and some one said to her that she must mount and +ride to see her husband, who was very sick; she obeyed, in her dream, +riding over a strange road, crossing a swollen stream at one point. + +At daylight she awoke; a horse with side-saddle on was waiting and a +messenger called her to go to her husband, as he was dangerously ill at +a distant house. Exactly as in her dream she was conducted, she +traversed the road and crossed the swollen stream to reach the place +where he lay, stricken with a fatal malady. + +After his death she returned to her father's house, but the family +migrated from Tennessee to Illinois, spent their first winter in +Sangamon County, afterward settling in Knox County. + +There the brave young pioneer took up her abode in a log cabin on a +piece of land which she purchased with the proceeds of her own hard +toil. + +The cabin was built without nails, of either oak or black walnut logs, +it is not now known, with oak clapboards, braces and weight-poles and +puncheon floor. There was one window without glass, a stick and clay +mortar chimney, and a large, cheerful fireplace where the backlogs and +fore-sticks held pyramids of dancing, ruddy flames, and the good cooking +was done in the good old way. + +By industry and thrift everything was turned to account. The ground was +made to yield wheat, corn and flax; the last was taken through the whole +process of manufacture into bed and table linen on the spot. Sheep were +raised, the wool sheared, carded, spun, dyed and woven, all by hand, by +this indefatigable worker, just as did many others of her time. + +They made almost every article of clothing they wore, besides cloth for +sale. + +Great, soft, warm feather beds comforted them in the cold Illinois +winters, the contents of which were plucked from the home flock of +geese. + +As soon as the children were old enough, they assisted in planting corn +and other crops. + +The domestic supplies were almost entirely of home production and +manufacture. Soap for washing owed its existence to the ash-hopper and +scrap-kettle, and the soap-boiling was an important and necessary +process. The modern housewife would consider herself much afflicted if +she had to do such work. + +And the sugar-making, which had its pleasant side, the sugar camp and +its merry tenants. + +About half a mile from the cabin stood the sugar maple grove to which +this energetic provider went to tap the trees, collect the sap and +finally boil the same until the "sugaring off." A considerable event it +was, with which they began the busy season. + +One of the daughters of Sarah Latimer Denny remembers that when a little +child she went with her mother to the sugar camp where they spent the +night. Resting on a bed of leaves, she listened to her mother as she +sang an old camp meeting hymn, "Wrestling Jacob," while she toiled, +mending the fire and stirring the sap, all night long under dim stars +sprinkled in the naked branches overhead. + +Other memories of childish satisfaction hold visions of the early +breakfast when "Uncle John" came to see his widowed sister, who, with +affectionate hospitality, set the "Johnny-cake" to bake on a board +before the fire, made chocolate, fried the chicken and served them with +snowy biscuits and translucent preserves. + +For the huge fireplace, huge lengths of logs, for the backlogs, were +cut, which required three persons to roll in place. + +Cracking walnuts on the generous hearth helped to beguile the long +winter evenings. A master might have beheld a worthy subject in the +merry children and their mother thus occupied. + +If other light were needed than the ruddy gleams the fire gave, it was +furnished by a lard lamp hung by a chain and staple in the wall, or one +of a pallid company of dipped candles. + +Sometimes there were unwelcome visitors bent on helping themselves to +the best the farm afforded; one day a wolf chased a chicken up into the +chimney corner of the Boren cabin, to the consternation of the small +children. Wolves also attacked the sheep alongside the cabin at the very +moment when one of the family was trying to catch some lambs; such +savage boldness brought hearty and justifiable screams from the young +shepherdess thus engaged. + +The products of the garden attached to this cabin are remembered as +wonderful in richness and variety; the melons, squashes, pumpkins, etc., +the fragrant garden herbs, the dill and caraway seeds for the famous +seedcakes carried in grandmothers' pockets or "reticules." In addition +to these, the wild fruits and game; haws, persimmons, grapes, plums, +deer and wild turkey; the medicinal herbs, bone-set and blood-root; the +nut trees heavily laden in autumn, all ministered to the comfort and +health of the pioneers. + +The mistress was known for her generous hospitality then, and throughout +her life. In visiting and treating the sick she distanced educated +practitioners in success. Never a violent partisan, she was yet a +steadfast friend. One daughter has said that she never knew any one who +came so near loving her neighbor as herself. Just, reasonable, kind, +ever ready with sympathetic and wholesome advice, it was applicably said +of her, "She openeth her mouth with wisdom and in her tongue is the law +of kindness." + +As the years went by the children were sent to school, the youngest +becoming a teacher. + +Toilsome years they were, but doubtless full of rich reward. + +Afterward, while yet in the prime of life, she married John Denny, a +Kentuckian and pioneer of Indiana, Illinois and finally of Oregon and +Washington. + +With this new alliance new fields of effort and usefulness opened before +her. The unusual occurrence of a widowed mother and her two daughters +marrying a widower and his two sons made this new tie exceeding strong. +With them, as before stated, she crossed the plains and "pioneered it" +in Oregon among the Waldo Hills, from whence she moved to Seattle on +Puget Sound with her husband and little daughter, Loretta Denny, in +1859. + +The shadow of pioneer days was scarcely receding, the place was a little +straggling village and much remained of beginnings. As before in all +other places, her busy hands found much to do; many a pair of warm +stockings and mittens from her swift needles found their way into the +possession of the numerous grand and great-grandchildren. In peaceful +latter days she sat in a cozy corner with knitting basket at hand, her +Bible in easy reach. + +Her mind was clear and vigorous and she enjoyed reading and conversing +upon topics old and new. + +Her cottage home with its blooming plants, of which "Grandmother's +calla," with its frequent, huge, snowy spathes, was much admired, +outside the graceful laburnum tree and sweet-scented roses, was a place +that became a Mecca to the tired feet and weary hearts of her kins-folk +and acquaintances. + +With devoted, filial affection her youngest daughter, S. Loretta Denny, +remained with her until she entered into rest, February 10th, 1888. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DAVID THOMAS DENNY. + + +David Thomas Denny was the first of the name to set foot upon the shores +of Puget Sound. Born in Putnam County, Indiana, March 17th, 1832, he was +nineteen years of age when he crossed the plains with his father's +company in 1851. He is a descendant of an ancient family, English and +Scotch, who moved to Ireland and thence to America, settling in Berk's +County, Pa. His father was John Denny, a notable man in his time, a +soldier of 1812, and a volunteer under William Henry Harrison. + +The long, rough and toilsome journey across the plains was a schooling +for the subsequent trials of pioneer life. Young as he was, he stood in +the very forefront, the outmost skirmish line of his advancing +detachment of the great army moving West. The anxious watch, the +roughest toil, the reconnaissance fell to his lot. He drove a four-horse +team, stood guard at night, alternately sleeping on the ground, under +the wagon, hunted for game to aid in their sustenance, and, briefly, +served his company in many ways with the energy and faithfulness which +characterized his subsequent career. + +With his party he reached Portland in August, 1851; from thence, with J. +N. Low, he made his way to Olympia on Puget Sound, where he arrived +footsore and weary, they having traveled on foot the Hudson Bay +Company's trail from the Columbia River. From Olympia, with Low, Lee +Terry, Captain Fay and others, he journeyed in an open boat to Duwampsh +Head, which has suffered many changes of name, where they camped, +sleeping under the boughs of a great cedar tree the first night, +September 25th, 1851. + +The next day Denny, Terry and Low made use of the skill and knowledge of +the native inhabitants by hiring two young Indians to take them up the +Duwampsh River in their canoe. He was left to spend the following night +with the two Indians, as his companions had wandered so far away that +they could not return, but remained at an Indian camp farther up the +river. On the 28th they were reunited and returned to their first camp, +from which they removed the same day to Alki Point. + +A cabin was commenced and after a time, Low and Terry returned to +Portland, leaving David Thomas Denny, nineteen years of age, the only +white person on Elliott Bay. There were then swarms of Indians on the +Sound. + +For three weeks he held this outpost of civilization, a part of the time +being far from well. So impressed was he with the defenselessness of the +situation that he expressed himself as "sorry" when his friends landed +from the schooner "Exact" at Alki Point on the 13th of November, 1851. +No doubt realizing that an irretrievable step had been taken, he tried +to reassure them by explaining that "the cabin was unfinished and that +they would not be comfortable." Many incidents of his early experience +are recorded in this volume elsewhere. + +He was married on the 23rd of January, 1853, to Miss Louisa Boren, one +of the most intelligent, courageous and devoted of pioneer women. They +were the first white couple married in Seattle. He was an explorer of +the eastern side of Elliott Bay, but was detained at home in the cabin +by lameness occasioned by a cut on his foot, when A. A. Denny, W. N. +Bell and C. D. Boren took their claims, so had fourth choice. + +For this reason his claim awaited the growth of the town of Seattle many +years, but finally became very valuable. + +It was early discovered by the settlers that he was a conscientious man; +so well established was this fact that he was known by the sobriquet of +"Honest Dave." + +Like all the other pioneers, he turned his hand to any useful thing that +was available, cutting and hewing timber for export, clearing a farm, +hauling wood, tending cattle, anything honorable; being an advocate of +total abstinence and prohibition, _he never kept a saloon_. + +He has done all in his power to discountenance the sale and use of +intoxicants, the baleful effects of which were manifest among both +whites and Indians. + +Every movement in the early days seems to have been fraught with danger. +D. T. Denny traveled in a canoe with two Indians from the Seattle +settlement in July, 1852, to Bush's Prairie, back of Olympia, to +purchase cattle for A. A. Denny, carrying two hundred dollars in gold +for that purpose. He risked his life in so doing, as he afterward +learned that the Indians thought of killing him and taking the money, +but for some unknown reason decided not to do the deed. + +He was a volunteer during the Indian war of 1855-6, in Company C, and +with his company was not far distant when Lieut. Slaughter was killed, +with several others. Those who survived the attack were rescued by this +company. + +On the morning of the battle of Seattle, he was standing guard near Fort +Decatur; the most thrilling moment of the day to him was probably that +in which he helped his wife and child into the fort as they fled from +the Indians. + +Although obliged to fight the Indians in self-defense in their warlike +moods, yet he was ever their true friend and esteemed by them as such. +He learned to speak the native tongue fluently, in such manner as to be +able to converse with all the neighboring tribes, and unnumbered times, +through years of disappointment, sorrow and trouble, they sought his +advice and sympathy. + +For a quarter of a century the hand-to-hand struggle went on by the +pioneer and his family, to conquer the wilds, win a subsistence and +obtain education. + +By thrift and enterprise they attained independence, and as they went +along helped to lay the foundations of many institutions and enterprises +of which the commonwealth is now justly proud. + +David Thomas Denny possessed the gifts and abilities of a typical +pioneer; a good shot, his trusty rifle provided welcome articles of +food; he could make, mend and invent useful and necessary things for +pioneer work; it was a day, in fact, when "Adam delved" and "Eve" did +likewise, and no man was too fine a "gentleman" to do any sort of work +that was required. + +Having the confidence of the community, he was called upon to fill many +positions of trust; he was a member of the first Board of Trustees of +Seattle, Treasurer of King County, Regent of the Territorial University, +Probate Judge, School Director, etc., etc. + +Although a Republican and an abolitionist, he did not consider every +Democrat a traitor, and thereby incurred the enmity of some. Party +feeling ran high. + +At that time (during the Rebellion) there stood on Pioneer Place in +Seattle a very tall flagstaff. Upon the death of a prominent Democrat +it was proposed to half-mast the flag on this staff, but during the +night the halyards were cut, it was supposed by a woman, at the +instigation of her husband and others, but the friends of the deceased +hired "Billie" Fife, a well-known cartoonist and painter, to climb to +the top and rig a new rope, a fine sailor feat, for which he received +twenty dollars. + +The first organizer of Good Templar Lodges was entertained at Mr. +Denny's house, and he, with several of the family, became charter +members of the first organization on October 4th, 1866. He was the first +chaplain of the first lodge of I. O. G. T. organized in Seattle. + +In after years the subject of this sketch became prominent in the +Prohibition movement; it was suggested to him at one time that he permit +his name to be used as Prohibition candidate for Governor of the State +of Washington, but the suggestion was never carried out. He would have +considered it an honor to be defeated in a good cause. + +He also became a warm advocate of equal suffrage, and at both New York +and Omaha M. E. general conferences he heartily favored the admission of +women lay delegates, and much regretted the adverse decision by those in +authority. + +The old pioneers were and are generally broad, liberal and progressive +in their ideas and principles; they found room and opportunity to think +and act with more freedom than in the older centers of civilization, +consequently along every line they are in the forefront of modern +thought. + +For its commercial development, Seattle owes much to David Thomas Denny, +and others like him, in perhaps a lesser degree. In the days of small +beginnings, he recognized the possibilities of development in the little +town so fortunately located. His hard-earned wealth, energy and talents +have been freely given to make the city of the present as well as that +which it will be. + +D. T. Denny made a valuable gift to the city of Seattle in a plot of +land in the heart of the best residence portion of the city. Many years +ago it was used as a cemetery, but was afterward vacated and is now a +park. He landed on the site of Seattle with twenty-five cents in his +pocket. His acquirement of wealth after years of honest work was +estimated at three million. + +Not only his property, money, thought and energy have gone into the +building up of Seattle, but hundreds of people, newly arrived, have +occupied his time in asking information and advice in regard to their +settling in the West. + +[Illustration: DAVID THOMAS DENNY] + +He was president of the first street railway company of Seattle, and +afterward spent thousands of dollars on a large portion of the system of +cable and electric roads of which the citizens of Seattle are wont to +boast, unknowing, careless or forgetting that what is their daily +convenience impoverished those who built, equipped and operated them. He +and his company owned and operated for a time the Consolidated Electric +road to North Seattle, Cedar Street and Green Lake; the cable road to +Queen Anne Hill, and built and equipped the "Third Street and Suburban" +electric road to the University and Ravenna Park. + +The building and furnishing of a large sawmill with the most approved +modern machinery, the establishing of an electric light plant, +furnishing a water supply to a part of the city, and in many other +enterprises he was actively engaged. + +For many years he paid into the public treasury thousands of dollars for +taxes on his unimproved, unproductive real estate, a considerable +portion of which was unjustly required and exacted, as it was impossible +to have sold the property at its assessed valuation. As one old settler +said, he paid "robber taxes." + +When, in the great financial panic that swept over the country in 1893, +he obtained a loan of the city treasurer and mortgaged to secure it real +estate worth at least three times the sum borrowed, the mob cried out +against him and sent out his name as one who had robbed the city, +forsooth! + +This was not the only occasion when the canaille expressed their +disapproval. + +Previous to, and during the anti-Chinese riot in Seattle, which occurred +on Sunday, February 7th, 1886, he received a considerable amount of +offensive attention. In the dark district of Seattle, there gathered one +day a forerunner of the greater mob which created so much disturbance, +howling that they would burn him out. "We'll burn his barn," they +yelled, their provocation being that he employed Chinese house servants +and rented ground to Mongolian gardeners. The writer remembers that it +was a fine garden, in an excellent state of cultivation. No doubt many +of the agitators themselves had partaken of the products thereof many +times, it being one of the chief sources of supply of the city. + +The threats were so loud and bitter against the friends of the Chinese +that it was felt necessary to post a guard at his residence. The eldest +son was in Oregon, attending the law school of the University; the next +one, D. Thos. Denny, Jr., not yet of age, served in the militia during +the riot; the third and youngest remained at home ready to help defend +the same. The outlook was dark, but after some serious remarks +concerning the condition of things, Mr. Denny went up stairs and brought +down his Winchester rifle, stood it in a near corner and calmly resumed +his reading. As he had dealt with savages before, he stood his ground. +At a notorious trial of white men for unprovoked murder of Chinese, it +was brought out that "Mr. David Denny, he 'fliend' (friend) of Chinese, +Injun and Nigger." + +During the time that his great business called for the employment of a +large force of men, he was uniformly kind to them, paying the highest +market price for their labor. Some were faithful and honest, some were +not; instead of its being a case of "greedy millionaire," it was a case +of just the opposite thing, as it was well known that he was robbed time +and again by dishonest employes. + +When urged to close down his mill, as it was running behind, he said "I +can't do it, it will throw a hundred men out of employment and their +families will suffer." So he borrowed money, paying a ruinous rate of +interest, and kept on, hoping that business would improve; it did not +and the mill finally went under. A good many employes who received the +highest wages for the shortest hours, struck for more, and others were +full of rage when the end came and there were only a few dollars due on +their wages. + +Neither was he a "heartless landlord," the heartlessness was on the +other side, as numbers of persons sneaked off without paying their rent, +and many built houses, the lumber in which was never paid for. + +According to their code it was not _stealing_ to rob a person supposed +to be wealthy. + +The common remark was, "Old Denny can stand it, he's got lots of money." + +The anarchist-communistic element displayed their strength and venom in +many ways in those days. They heaped abuse on those, who unfortunately +for themselves, employed men, and bit the hand that fed them. + +Their cry was "Death to Capitalists!" They declared their intention at +one time of hanging the leading business men of Seattle, breaking the +vaults of the bank open, burning the records and dividing lands and +money among themselves. But the reign of martial law at the culmination +of their heroic efforts in the Anti-Chinese riot, brought them to their +senses, the history of which period may be told in another chapter. + +From early youth, David Thomas Denny was a faithful member of the M. E. +Church, serving often in official capacity and rendering valuable +assistance, with voice, hand and pocketbook. Twice he was sent as lay +delegate to the General Conference, a notable body of representative +men, of which he was a member in 1888 and again in 1892. + +The conference of 1888 met in New York City and held its sessions at the +Metropolitan Opera House. His family accompanied him, crossing the +continent by the Canadian Pacific R. R. by way of Montreal to New York. + +In the latter place, they met their first great sorrow, in the death, +after a brief illness, of the beloved youngest daughter, the return and +her burial in her native land by the sundown seas. Soon followed other +days of sadness and trial; in less than a year, the second daughter, +born in Fort Decatur, passed away, and others of the family, hovered on +the brink of the grave, but happily were restored. + +Loss of fortune followed loss of friends as time went on, but these +storms passed and calm returned. He went steadfastly on, confident of +the rest that awaits the people of God. + +At the age of sixty-seven he was wide awake, alert and capable of +enduring hardships, no doubt partly owing to a temperate life. In late +years he interested himself in mining and was hopeful of his own and his +friends' future, and that of the state he helped to found. + +While sojourning in the Cascade Mountains in 1891, David T. Denny wrote +the following: + + "Ptarmigan Park: On Sept. 25th, 1851, just forty years ago, + Leander Terry, an older brother of C. C. Terry, John N. Low and + I, landed on what has since been known as Freeport Point, now + West Seattle. We found Chief Sealth with his tribe stopping on + the beach and fishing for salmon--a quiet, dignified man was + Sealth. + + "We camped on the Point and slept under a large cedar tree, and + the next morning hired a couple of young Indians to take us up + the Duwampsh River; stayed one night at the place which was + afterward taken for a claim by E. B. Maple, then returned and + camped one night at our former place on the Point; then on the + morning of the 28th of September went around to Alki Point and + put down the foundation of the first cabin started in what is now + King County. Looking out over Elliott Bay at that time the site + where Seattle now stands, was an unbroken forest with no mark + made by the hand of man except a little log fort made by the + Indians, standing near the corner of Commercial and Mill Streets. + + "Since that day we have had our Indian war, the Crimean war has + been fought, the war between Prussia and Austria, that between + France and Prussia, the great Southern Rebellion and many smaller + wars. + + "Then to think of the wonderful achievements in the use of + electricity and the end is not yet. + + "I should like to live another forty years just to see the growth + of the Sound country, if nothing else. I fully believe it is + destined to be the most densely populated and wealthiest of the + United States. One thing that leads me to this conclusion is the + evidence of a large aboriginal population which subsisted on the + natural productions of the land and water. Reasoning by + comparison, what a vast multitude can be supported by an + intelligent use of the varied resources of the country and the + world to draw from besides." + +And again he wrote: + + "Ptarmigan Park, Sept. 28th, 1891: Just forty years ago + yesterday, J. N. Low, Lee Terry and myself laid the foundation of + the first cabin started in what is now King County, Washington, + then Thurston County, Oregon Territory. + + "Vast have been the changes since that day. + + "Looking back it does not seem so very long ago and yet children + born since that have grown to maturity, married, and reared + families. + + "Many of those who came to Elliott Bay are long since gone to + their last home. Lee Terry has been dead thirty-five years, Capt. + Robert Fay, twenty or more years, and J. N. Low over two years, + in fact most of the early settlers have passed away: John Buckley + and wife, Jacob Maple, S. A. Maple, Wm. N. Bell and wife, C. C. + Terry and wife, A. Terry, L. M. Collins and wife, Mrs. Kate + Butler, E. Hanford, Mother Holgate, John Holgate and many others. + If they could return to Seattle now they would not know the + place, and yet had it not been for various hindrances, the Indian + war, the opposition of the N. P. R. R. and the great fire, + Seattle would be much larger than it now is, the country would be + much more developed and we would have a larger rural population. + + "However, from this time forward, I fully believe the process of + development will move steadily on, especially do I believe that + we are just commencing the development of the mineral resources + of the country. Undoubtedly there has been more prospecting for + the precious metals during 1891 than ever before all put + together. + + "In the Silver Creek region there has been, probably, six hundred + claims taken and from all accounts the outlook is very favorable. + Also from Cle Elum and Swauk we have glowing accounts. + + "In the Ptarmigan Park district about fifty claims have been + taken, a large amount of development work done and some very fine + samples of ore taken out." + + (Signed) D. T. DENNY. + +In the Seattle Daily Times of September 25th, 1901. + + "JUST FIFTY YEARS AGO TODAY. + + "On September 25, 1851, Mr. D. T. Denny, Now Living in This City, + Was Greeted on the Shores of Elliott Bay by Chief Seattle. + + "Fifty years ago today, the first white settlers set foot in King + County. + + "Fifty years ago today, a little band of pioneers rounded Alki + Point and grounded their boat at West Seattle. Chief Seattle + stalked majestically down the beach and greeted them in his + characteristic way. During the ensuing week they were guests of + a Western sachem, the king of Puget Sound waters, and never were + white men more royally entertained. + + "At that time Chief Seattle was at the height of his popularity. + With a band of five hundred braves behind him, he stood in a + position to command the respect of all wandering tribes and of + the first few white men, whose heart-hungering and restlessness + had driven them from the civilization of the East, across the + plains of the Middle West, to the shores of the Pacific. + + "As Mr. Denny is essentially the premier of this country, it + would not be out of order to give a glimpse of his early history. + He is the true type of pioneer. Although he is somewhat bent with + age, and his hair is white with the snows of many winters, + nevertheless, he still shows signs of that ruggedness that was + with him in the early Western days of his youth. Not only is he a + pioneer, but he came from a family of pioneers. Years and years + ago his ancestors crossed the Atlantic and landed on the Atlantic + coast. Not satisfied with the prevailing conditions there, they + began to push westward, settling in what is now Pennsylvania. As + the country became opened up and settled, this Denny family of + hardy pioneers again turned their faces to the westward sun, and + this time Indiana made them a home, and still later Illinois." + + +THE START WESTWARD. + +It was in the latter state that Mr. D. T. Denny and his brother first +began to hear stories of the Willamette valley. Wonderful tales were +being carried across the plains of the fertility of the land around the +Columbia River and the spirit of restlessness that had been +characteristic of their ancestors began to tell upon them, and after +reading all they could find of this practically unknown wilderness, they +bade farewell to their Illinois friends, and started off across the +plains. + +The start was made on the 10th day of April, 1851, from Knox County, +Illinois. D. T. Denny was accompanied by his older brother A. A. Denny, +and family. They drove two four-horse teams, and a two-horse wagon, and +ten days after the start had been made they crossed the Missouri River. +The fourth of July, 1851, found them at Fort Hall on Snake River, +Montana, an old Hudson Bay trading station. On the 11th day of August, +they reached The Dalles, Oregon, and there, after a brief consultation, +they decided to separate. + +Mr. A. A. Denny here shipped the wagons and his family down the river on +some small vessel they were fortunate enough to find there, while Mr. D. +T. Denny took the horses and pushed over the Cascade Mountains. He +followed what was then known as the old Barlow road and reached +Portland on the 17th day of August. + +They decided to stay in Portland for a few days, until they could learn +more about the country than they then knew, and it was in that city that +the subject of this sketch worked his first day for money. He helped +Thomas Carter unload a brig that had reached port from Boston, receiving +the sum of three dollars for his labors, and it was the "biggest three +dollars he ever earned in his life," so he said. + +While at Portland they began to hear stories of Puget Sound, and after a +brief consultation, the Denny brothers and Mr. John N. Low, who had also +made the journey across the plains, decided to investigate the country +that now lies around the Queen City of the West. + + +OFF FOR ELLIOTT BAY. + +As A. A. Denny had his family to look after, it was decided that Mr. Low +and D. T. Denny would make the trip, and as a consequence, on the 10th +day of September they ferried Low's stock across the river to what was +then Fort Vancouver. From there they followed the Hudson Bay trail to +the Cowlitz River, and up the Cowlitz to Ford's Prairie. Leaving their +stock there for a short time, they pushed on to Olympia, now the capital +of the state. + +When they reached Olympia they found Capt. R. C. Fay and George M. +Martin on the point of leaving down Sound to fish for salmon, and +Messrs. Low, Denny and Terry arranged to come as far as the Duwamish +River with them. The start was made. There was no fluttering of flags +nor booming of cannon such as marked the departure of Columbus when he +left for a new country, and in fact this little band of men, in an open +boat, little dreamed that they would ultimately land within a stone's +throw of what was destined to become one of the greatest cities in the +West. + +Fifty years ago today they camped with Chief Seattle on the promontory +across the bay. They slept that night under the protecting branches of a +cedar tree, and on the morning of the 26th they hired two of Seattle's +braves to paddle them up the river in a dugout canoe. They spent that +day in looking over the river bottoms, where are now situated the towns +of Maple Prairie and Van Asselt. There were no settlements there then, +and nothing but giant pines and firs greeted their gaze for miles. It +was a wonderful sight to these hardy Eastern men, and as they wished to +know something more of the country, Messrs. Low and Terry decided to +leave the canoe and depart on a short tour of exploration. One, two and +three hours passed and they failed to put in an appearance. In vain did +Mr. Denny fire his gun, and yell himself hoarse, but he was compelled to +spend the night in the wilderness with the two Indians. + + +DECIDED TO LOCATE. + +The next day, however, or to be explicit, on the 27th of September, he +was gratified at the appearance of his friends on the river bank. They +had become lost the night before, and falling in with a band of Indians, +had spent the night with them. Having seen enough of the country to +become convinced that it was the place for them, they returned to what +is now West Seattle for the night. After the sun had disappeared behind +the Olympics, they heard a scow passing the point, which afterwards they +found contained L. M. Collins and family, who had pushed on up the river +and settled on the banks of the Duwamish. + +On the morning of the 28th they decided to take up claims back of Alki +point, and on that day started to lay the foundation of the first cabin +in King county. Having decided to settle on Elliott bay, Mr. Low +determined to return to Portland for his family, whereupon Mr. Denny +wrote the following letter to his brother and sent it with him: + + "We have examined the valley of the Duwamish river and find it a + fine country. There is plenty of room for one thousand settlers. + Come on at once." + +By the time Mr. Low had reached Portland, William Bell and C. D. Boren +had also become interested in the Puget Sound district, and therefore +Messrs. Low, Denny, Bell and Boren, with their families, hired a +schooner to take them down the Columbia, up on the outside, in through +the Strait, and up the Sound to Alki, reaching the latter point on the +13th of November, 1851. + +In speaking of those early pioneer days, Mr. Denny said: + + "We built up quite a settlement over on Alki, and the Indians of + course came and settled around us. No, we were not molested to + any great extent. I remember that on one night, our women folks + missed a lot of clothing they had hung out to dry, and I at once + went to their big chief and told him what had happened. In a very + short time not only were the missing articles returned to us, but + a lot that we didn't know were gone." + + +WHISKY CAUSED TROUBLE. + + "In those early days, in all my experience with Indians, I have + always found them peaceable enough as long as they left whisky + alone. Of course we had trouble with them, but it was always due + to the introduction of the white man's firewater, which has been + more than a curse to the red man. + + "When we reached here, the Indians were more advanced than one + would have naturally supposed. We were able to buy berries, fish + and game of them, and potatoes also. Great fine tubers they were + too, much better than any we had ever been able to raise back in + Illinois. In fact I don't know what we would have done during + the first two winters had it not been for the Indians. + + "But talk about game," he continued, a glow coming to his face as + the old scenes were brought up to him, "why, I have seen the + waters of Elliott Bay fairly black with ducks. Deer and bear were + plentiful then and this was a perfect paradise for the man with a + rod or gun. Never, I am sure, was there a country in which it was + so easy to live as it was in the Puget Sound district fifty years + ago." + + "In coming across the plains, Mr. Denny, were you attacked by + Indians, or have any adventures out of the ordinary?" was asked. + + "Well," said he meditatively, "we did have one little brush that + might have ended with the loss of all our lives. It was just + after leaving Fort Hall, in Montana. We had come up to what I + think was called the American Falls. While quite a distance away + we noticed the water just below the falls was black, with what we + supposed were ducks, but as we drew nearer we saw they were + Indians swimming across with one hand and holding their guns high + in the air with the other. We turned off slightly and started + down the trail at a rattling rate. We had not gone far when a big + chief stepped up on the bank. He was dressed mainly in a tall + plug hat and a gun, and he shouted, 'How do, how do, stop, stop!' + Well, we didn't, and after repeating his question he dropped + behind the sage brush and opened fire. + + "My brother lay in my wagon sick with mountain fever, and that, + of course, materially reduced our fighting force. Had they + succeeded in shooting down one of our horses, it would, of + course, have been the end of us, but fortunately they did not and + we at last escaped them. No, no one was wounded, but it was the + worst scrape I ever had with the Indians, and I hope I will never + have to go through a similar experience again. It isn't pleasant + to be shot at, even by an Indian." + +RECOGNIZED THE SPOT. + + "In 1892," said Mr. Denny, "I went East over the Great Northern. + I was thinking of my first experience in Montana when I reached + that state, when all of a sudden we rounded a curve and passed + below the falls. I knew them in a minute, and instantly those old + scenes and trying times came back to me in a way that was + altogether too realistic for comfort. No, I have not been back + since. + + "Mr. Prosch, Mr. Ward and myself," continued this old pioneer, + "had intended to take our families over to Alki today and hold a + sort of a picnic in honor of what happened fifty years ago, but + of course my sickness has prevented us from doing so. I don't + suppose we will be here to celebrate the event at the end of + another fifty years, and I should have liked to have gone today. + Instead, I suppose I shall sit here and think of what I saw and + heard at Alki Point just fifty years ago. I can live it over + again, in memories at least. + + "Now, young man," concluded Mr. Denny, not unkindly, "please get + the names of those early pioneers and the dates right. A Seattle + paper published a bit of this history a few days ago, and they + got everything all mixed up. This is the story, and should be + written right, because if it isn't, the story becomes valueless. + I dislike very much to have the stories and events of those early + days misstated and misrepresented." + +In 1899, Mr. Denny had the arduous task of personally superintending the +improvement of the old Snoqualmie road around the shore of Lake Kichelas +and on for miles through the mountains, building and repairing bridges, +making corduroy, blasting out rocks, changing the route at times; after +much patient effort and endurance of discomfort and hardship, he left it +much improved, for which many a weary way-farer would be grateful did +they but know. In value the work was far beyond the remuneration he +received. + +During the time he was so occupied he had a narrow escape from death by +an accident, the glancing of a double-bitted ax in the hands of a too +energetic workman; it struck him between the eyes, inflicting a wound +which bled alarmingly, but finally was successfully closed. + +The next year he camped at Lake Kichelas in the interests of a mining +company, and incidentally enjoyed some fishing and prospecting. It was +the last time he visited the mountains. + +Gradually some maladies which had haunted him for years increased. As +long as he could he exerted himself in helping his family, especially in +preparing the site for a new home. He soon after became a great sufferer +for several years, struggling against his infirmities, in all exhibiting +great fortitude and patience. + +His mind was clear to the last and he was able to converse, to read and +to give sound and admirable advice and opinions. + +Almost to the last day of his life he took interest in the progress of +the nation and of the world, following the great movements with +absorbing interest. + +He expressed a desire to see his friends earnest Christians, his own +willingness to leave earthly scenes and his faith in Jesus. + +So he lived and thus he died, passing away on the morning of November +25th, 1903, in the seventy-second year of his age. + +He was a great pioneer, a mighty force, commercial, moral and religious, +in the foundation-building of the Northwest. + +In a set of resolutions presented by the Pioneer Association of the +State of Washington occur these words: "The record of no citizen was +ever marked more distinctly by acts of probity, integrity and general +worth than that of Mr. D. T. Denny, endearing him to all the people and +causing them to regard him with the utmost esteem and favor." + +On the morning of November 26th, 1903, there appeared in the +Post-Intelligencer, the following: + + "David Thomas Denny, who came to the site of Seattle in 1851, the + first of his name on Puget Sound, died at his home, a mile north + of Green Lake, at 3:36 yesterday morning. All the members of his + family, including John Denny, who arrived the day before from + Alaska, were at the bedside. Until half an hour before he passed + away Mr. Denny was conscious, and engaged those about him in + conversation." + + +MARRIED IN A CABIN. + +The story of the early life of the Denny brothers tallies very nearly +with the history of Seattle. Mr. and Mrs. David Denny were married in a +cabin on the north end of A. A. Denny's claim near the foot of Lenora +street, January 23, 1853. The next morning the couple moved to their own +cabin--built by the husband's hands--at the foot of what is now Denny +Way. The moving was accomplished in a canoe. + +Though they professed a great respect for David Denny, the Indians were +numerous and never very reliable. In a year or two, therefore, the +family moved up nearer the sawmill and little settlement which had +grown up near the foot of Cherry street. D. T. Denny had meanwhile +staked out a very large portion of what is now North Seattle--a plat of +three hundred and twenty acres. Later he made seven additions to the +city of Seattle from this claim. In 1857 it was a wilderness of thick +brush, but the pioneer moved his family to his farm on the present site +of Recreation park in that year. The Indian war had occurred the winter +before and the red men were quiet, having received a lesson from the +blue jackets which were landed from the United States gunboat Decatur. + +Three or four years later the family moved to a cottage at the corner of +Second avenue and Seneca street. In the early '70s they moved to the +large home at the corner of Dexter and Republican streets, where the +children grew up. In 1890 the family took possession of the large house +standing on Queen Anne avenue, known as the Denny home, which was +occupied by the family until a few years ago, when they moved to Fremont +and later to the house where Mr. Denny died, in Licton Park, some +distance north of Green Lake. + +Until about ten years ago David T. Denny was considered the wealthiest +man in Seattle. His large property in the north end of the city had been +the source of more and more revenue as the town grew. When the needs of +the town became those of a big city he hastened to supply them with +energy and money. His mill on the shores of Lake Union was the largest +in the city, when Seattle was first known as a milling town. The +establishment of an electric light plant and a water supply to a part of +the city were among the enterprises which he headed. + +The cable and horse car roads were consolidated into a company headed by +D. T. Denny more than a decade ago. In the effort to supply the company +with the necessary funds Mr. Denny attempted to convert much of his +property into cash. At that time an estimate of his resources was made +by a close personal friend, who yesterday said that the amount was +considerably over three million dollars, which included his valuable +stock in the traction companies. In the hard times of '93 Mr. Denny was +unable to realize the apparent value of his property, and a considerable +reduction of his fortune was a result. Since then he has been to a great +extent engaged in mining in the Cascade mountains, and for the past +three years has been closely confined to his home by a serious illness. + +Among the gifts of D. T. Denny to the city of Seattle is Denny Park. +Denny Way, the Denny school and other public places in Seattle bear his +name. D. T. Denny was a liberal Republican always. He was at one time a +member of the board of regents of the territorial university, the first +treasurer of King county, probate judge for two years and for twelve +years a school director of District No. 1, comprising the city of +Seattle. + +Several of those who were associated with David T. Denny during the time +when he was in active business and a strong factor in local affairs have +offered estimates of his character and of the part he took in the +founding and building of the city. Said Col. William T. Prosser: + + "It is sad to think that David T. Denny will no more be seen upon + the streets of the city he assisted in founding more than fifty + years ago. During all that time he was closely identified with + its varying periods of danger, delayed hopes and bitter + disappointments, as well as those of marvelous growth, activity + and prosperity. The changing features of the city were reflected + in his own personal history. The waves of prosperity and + adversity both swept over him, yet throughout his entire career + he always maintained his integrity and through it all he bore + himself as an energetic and patriotic citizen and as a Christian + gentleman." + +Judge Thomas Burke: + + "D. T. Denny had great faith in Seattle, and his salient + characteristic was his readiness in pushing forward its welfare. + I remember him having an irreproachable character--honest, just + in all his dealings and strong in his spirit. In illustration of + his strong feeling on the temperance question I remember that he + embodied a clause in the early deeds of the property which he + sold to the effect that no intoxicating liquors were to be sold + upon the premises. Yes, he was a good citizen." + +Charles A. Prosch: + + "Although Mr. Denny's later years were clouded by financial + troubles, reverses did not soil his spirit nor change his + integrity. He was progressive to the last and one of the most + upright men I know." + +D. B. Ward: + + "I first met David Denny in 1859 and I have known him more or + less intimately ever since. I know him to have possessed strict + integrity, unswerving purpose and cordial hospitality. My first + dinner in Seattle was eaten at his home--where a baked salmon + fresh from the Sound was an oddity to me. His financial troubles + some years ago grew out of his undaunted public spirit. He was + president of the first consolidated street car system here, and + in his efforts to support it most of his property was + confiscated. I knew him for a strong, able man." + +Judge Orange Jacobs: + + "Mr. Denny was a quiet man, but he carried the stamp of truth. He + was extremely generous, and as I remember, he possessed a fine + mind. In his death I feel a personal, poignant grief." + +Rev. W. S. Harrington: + + "D. T. Denny was a man of much more than average ability. He + thought much and deeply on all questions which affected the + welfare of man. He was retiring and his strength was known to + few. But his integrity was thorough and transparent and his + purpose inflexible. Even though he suffered, his spirit was never + bitter toward his fellows, and his benefactions were numerous. + Above all, he was a Christian and believed in a religion which he + sought to live, not to exhibit. His long illness was borne with a + patience and a sweetness which commanded my deep respect and + admiration." + +Samuel L. Crawford: + + "A man with the courage to fight for his convictions of right and + with a marvelous capacity for honest work--such is the splendid + heritage David T. Denny has left to his sorrowing family. When + but 19 years of age he walked from the Columbia river to Puget + Sound, driving a small band of stock ahead of him through the + brush. + + "No sooner had his party settled and the log cabin been completed + than David commenced looking for more work, and, like all others + who seek diligently, he was successful, for early in December of + that year the brig Leonesa, Capt. Daniel S. Howard, stopped at + Alki Point, seeking a cargo of piling for San Francisco. David T. + Denny, William N. Bell, C. D. Boren, C. C. Terry, J. N. Low, A. + A. Denny and Lee Terry took the contract of cutting the piling + and loading the vessel, which they accomplished in about two + weeks, a remarkably short time, when the weather and the lack of + teams and other facilities are taken into consideration. + + "Other vessels came for cargo and Mr. Denny became an expert + woodsman, helping to supply them with piling from the shores. In + 1852 Mr. Denny, in company with his brother Arthur and some + others, came over to Elliott Bay and laid the foundation of + Seattle, the great city of the future. Mr. Denny, being a + bachelor, took the most northerly claim, adjoining that of W. N. + Bell, and built a cabin near the shore, at the foot of what is + now Denny Way. The Indians being troublesome, he moved into a + small house beside that of his brother on the site of the present + Stevens Hotel. + + "In the meantime he married a sister of C. D. Boren, and a small + family commenced to spring up around him, thus requiring larger + quarters. In 1871 Mr. Denny built a large frame house on the + southwest shore of Lake Union, on a beautiful knoll. He cleared + up a large portion of his claim, and for many years engaged in + farming and stock-raising. He afterward built a palatial home on + his property at the foot of Queen Anne Hill, midway between Lake + Union and the Sound, but this he occupied only a short time. In + 1852, in company with his brother Arthur, Mr. Denny discovered + Salmon Bay. + + "Mr. Denny was a just man and always dealt fairly with the + Indians. For this reason the Indians learned to love and respect + him, and for many years they have gone to him to settle their + disputes and help them out of their difficulties with the whites + and among themselves. + + "As Seattle grew, David Denny platted much of his claim and sold + it off in town lots. He built the Western mill at the south end + of Lake Union and engaged extensively in the building and + promotion of street railways. He had too many irons in the fire, + and when the panic came in 1892-3 it crippled him financially, + but he gave up his property, the accumulation of a lifetime of + struggle and work, to satisfy his creditors, and went manfully to + work in the mountains of Washington to regain his lost fortune. + His heroic efforts were rapidly being crowned with success, as he + is known to have secured a number of mines of great promise, on + which he has done a large amount of development work during the + past few years. + + "In the death of David T. Denny, Seattle loses an upright, + generous worker, who has always contributed of his brain, brawn + and cash for the upbuilding of the city of which he was one of + the most important founders." + + +DEXTER HORTON'S TRIBUTE. + + "'I have known Mr. Denny for fifty years. A mighty tree has + fallen. He was one of the best men, of highest character and + principle, this city ever claimed as a citizen. That is enough.' + + "By Father F. X. Prefontaine, of the Church of Our Lady of Good + Help: 'I have known Mr. Denny about thirty-six or thirty-seven + years. I always liked him, though I was more intimately + acquainted with his brother, Hon. A. A. Denny, and his venerable + father, John Denny. His father in his time impressed me as a fine + gentleman, a great American. He was a man who was always called + upon at public meetings for a speech and he was a deeply earnest + man, so much so that tears often showed in his eyes while he was + addressing the people.' + + "Hon. Boyd J. Tallman, judge of the Superior Court: 'I have only + known Mr. Denny since 1889, and I always entertained the highest + regard for him. He was a man of firm conviction and principle and + was always ready to uphold them. Though coming here to help found + the town, he was always ready to advocate and stand for the + principle of prohibition and temperance on all occasions. While + there were many who could not agree with him in these things, + every manly man felt bound to accord to Mr. Denny honesty of + purpose and respect for the sincerity of his opinion. I believe + that in his death a good man has gone and this community has + suffered a great loss.'" + + +C. B. BAGLEY TALKS. + + "Clarence B. Bagley, who as a boy and man has known Mr. Denny for + almost the full number of years the latter lived at Seattle, was + visibly overcome at the news of his death. Mr. Bagley would + gladly have submitted a more extended estimate than he did of Mr. + Denny's life and character, but he was just hurrying into court + to take his place as a juryman. + + "'Mr. Denny was one of the best men Seattle ever had. He was a + liberal man, ever ready to embark his means in enterprises + calculated to upbuild and aid in the progress of Seattle. He was + a man of strong convictions, strong almost to obstinacy in + upholding and maintaining cherished principles he fully believed. + + "'Mr. Denny suffered reverses through his willingness to + establish enterprises for the good of the whole city. He built + the Western Mill at Lake Union when the location was away in the + woods, and eventually lost a great deal of money in it during the + duller periods of the city's life. He also lost a great deal of + money in giving this city a modern street railway system. His + character as an honorable man and Christian always stood out + boldly, his integrity of purpose never questioned.' + + "Lawrence J. Colman, son of J. M. Colman, the pioneer, said: 'Our + family has known Mr. Denny for thirty-one years, ever since + coming to Seattle. We regarded him as an absolutely upright, + conscientious and Christian man, notwithstanding the reverses + that came to him, in whom our confidence was supreme, and one who + did not require his character to be upheld, for it shone brightly + at all times by its own lustre.'" + + +SAMUEL COOMBS TALKS. + + "S. F. Coombs, the well-known pioneer, had known Mr. Denny since + 1859, about forty-five years. 'It was to Mr. Denny,' said Mr. + Coombs, 'that the Indians who lived here and knew him always went + for advice and comfort and to have their disputes settled. Their + high estimate of the man was shown in many ways, where the whites + were under consideration. Mr. Denny was a man whom I always + admired and greatly respected. He afforded me much information of + the resident Indians here and around Salmon Bay, as he was + intimately acquainted with them all. + + "'At one time Mr. Denny was reckoned as Seattle's wealthiest + citizen. When acting as deputy assessor for Andrew Chilberg, the + city lying north of Mill Street, now Yesler Way, was my district + to assess. Denny's holdings, D. T. Denny's plats, had the year + previous been assessed by the acre. The law was explicit, and to + have made up the assessment by the acre would have been illegal. + Mr. Denny's assessed value the year before was fifty thousand + dollars. The best I could do was to make the assessment by the + lot and block. For the year I assessed two hundred and fifty + thousand. Recourse was had to the county commissioners, but the + assessment remained about the same. Just before his purchase of + the Seattle street car system he was the wealthiest man in King + County, worth more than five hundred thousand dollars. + + "'Of Mr. Denny it may be said that if others had applied the + Golden Rule as he did, he would have been living in his old home + in great comfort in this city today.'" + + +LIFE OF DAVID DENNY. + + "Fifty-two years and two months ago David Thomas Denny came to + Seattle, to the spot where Seattle now stands enthroned upon her + seven hills. Mr. Denny, the last but one of the little band of + pioneers--some half dozen men first to make this spot their + home--has been gathered to his fathers; 'has wrapped the mantle + of his shroud about him and laid down to pleasant dreams.' Gone + is a man and citizen who perhaps loved Seattle best of all those + who ever made Seattle their home. This is attested by the fact + that from the time that Mr. Denny first came to Elliott Bay it + has been his constant home. Never but once or twice during that + long period of time did he go far away, and then for but a very + short time. Once he went as far away as New York--and that proved + a sad trip--and once, in recent years, to California. Both trips + were comparatively brief, and he who first conquered the primeval + forest that crowned the hills around returned home full of + intense longing to get back and full of love for the old home. + + "Mr. Denny lived a rugged, honorable, upright life--the life of a + patriarch. He bore patiently a long period of intense suffering + manfully and without murmur, and when the end approached he + calmly awaited the summons and died as if falling away into a + quiet sleep. So he lived, so he died. + + "Few indeed who can comprehend the extent of his devotion to + Seattle. Living in Seattle for the last two years, yet for that + period he never looked once upon the city which he helped to + build. About that long ago he moved from his home which he had + maintained for some years at Fremont, to the place where he died, + Licton Springs, about a mile north of Green Lake. Said Mr. Denny + as he went from the door of the old home he was giving up for the + new: 'This will be the last time I will ever look upon Seattle,' + and Mr. Denny's words were true. He never was able to leave again + the little sylvan home his family--his wife, sister and + children--had raised for him in the woods. There, dearly loved, + he was watched over and cared for by the children and by the wife + who had shared with him for two-score-and-ten years the joys and + sorrows, the ups and downs that characterized his life in a more + marked degree than was the experience of any other of the + pioneers who first reached this rugged bay. + + "Mr. Denny was once, not so very long ago, a wealthy man--some + say the wealthiest in the city--but he died poor, very poor; but + he paid his debts to the full. Once the owner in fee simple of + land upon which are now a thousand beautiful Seattle homes, he + passed on to his account a stranger in a strange land, and + without title to his own domicile. When the crisis and the crash + came that wrecked his fortune he went stoutly to work, and if he + ever repined it was not known outside of the family and small + circle of chosen friends. That was about fourteen years ago, and + up to two years ago Mr. Denny toiled in an humble way, perhaps + never expecting, never hoping to regain his lost fortune. Those + last years of labor were spent, for the most part, at the Denny + Mine on Gold Creek, a mine, too, in which he had no direct + interest or ownership, or in directing work upon the Snoqualmie + Pass road. He came down from the hills to his sick bed and to his + death. + + "Mr. Denny's life for half a century is the history of the town. + Without the Dennys there might have been no Seattle. Of all the + band that came here in the fall of 1851, they seemed to have + taken deepest root and to have left the stamp of their name and + individuality which is keen and patent to this day." + +[Illustration: SONS OF D. T. AND LOUISA DENNY + + Victor W. S. D. Thomas John B.] + + +CAME FROM ILLINOIS. + + "The Dennys came from Illinois, from some place near Springfield, + and crossing Iowa, rendezvoused at what was then Kanesville, now + Council Bluffs. They came by way of Fort Hall and the South Pass, + along the south side of the Snake River, where, at or near + American Falls, they had their first and only brush with the + Indians. There was only desultory firing and no one was injured. + The party reached The Dalles August 11, 1851. The party separated + there, Low, Boren and A. A. Denny going by river to Portland, + arriving August 22. In September, Low and D. T. Denny drove a + herd of cattle, those that drew them across the plains, to + Chehalis River to get them to a good winter range. These men came + on to the Sound and here they arrived before the end of that + month. After looking around some, Low went away, having hired Mr. + Denny, who was an unmarried man, to stay behind and build Low a + cabin. This was done and on September 28th, 1851, the foundation + of this first cabin was laid close to the beach at Alki Point. + + "A. A. Denny, Low, Boren, Bell and C. C. Terry arrived at Alki + Point, joining D. T. Denny. That made a happy little family, + twenty-four persons, twelve men and women, twelve children and + one cabin. In this they all resided until the men could erect a + second log cabin. By this time the immediate vicinity of the + point had been stripped of its building logs and the men had to + go back and split shakes and carry them out of the woods on their + backs. With these they erected two 'shake' or split cedar houses + that, with the two log cabins, provided fair room for the + twenty-four people. + + "During that winter the men cut and loaded a small brig with + piles for San Francisco. The piles were cut near the water and + rolled and dragged by hand to where they would float to the + vessel's side. There were no oxen in the country at that time and + the first team that came to Elliott Bay was driven along the + beach at low tide from up near Tacoma." + + +SURROUNDED BY INDIANS. + + "The first winter spent at Alki Point the settlers were almost + constantly surrounded with one thousand Indians armed with old + Hudson Bay Company's muskets. This company maintained one of its + posts at Nisqually, Pierce County, and traded flintlocks and + blankets with the Indians all over Western Washington, taking in + trade their furs and skins. The Indians from far and near hearing + of the settlement of whites came and camped on the beach nearly + the whole winter. + + "In addition to the Indians of this bay the Muckleshoots, Green + Rivers, Snoqualmies, Tulalips, Port Madisons and likely numerous + other bands were on hand. At one time the Muckleshoots and + Snoqualmies lined up in front of the little cluster of whites and + came near engaging in a battle, having become enraged at one + another. The whites acted as peacemakers and no blood was + spilled. + + "In those days the government gave what was known as donation + claims, one hundred sixty acres to a man, and an equal amount to + the women. In the spring of 1852 the Dennys, Bell and Boren, came + over to this side and took donation claims. Boren located first + on the south, his line being at about the line of Jackson Street. + A. A. Denny came next and Bell third. Shortly after D. T. Denny + located, taking a strip of ground from the bay back to Lake Union + and bounded by lines north and south which tally about with Denny + Way on the south and Mercer Street on the north. Later Mr. Denny + bought the eastern shore of Lake Union, extending from the lake + to the portage between Union and Washington. + + "Mr. Denny's first house on this side of the bay, built + presumably in the spring of 1852, was located on the beach at the + foot of what is now Denny Way in North Seattle. This was a + one-story log cabin. It was on the bluff overlooking the bay and + the woods hemmed it in, and it was only by cutting and slashing + that one could open a way back into the forest." + + +MR. DENNY'S FARM. + + "Some time later Mr. Denny begun his original clearing for a farm + at what is now the vicinity of Third Avenue North and Republican + Street, and also in the early years of residence here--about 1860 + or 1861--built a home on the site of what is now occupied by + modern business houses at Second Avenue and Seneca Street. + + "It seems to have been Mr. Denny's plan to work out on his farm + at Third Avenue and Republican Street during the dry summer + season and to reside down in the settlement in the winter. The + farm at Third Avenue and Republican Street grew apace until in + after years it became the notable spot in all the district of + what is now North Seattle. After the arrival on the coast of the + Chinaman it was leased to them for a number of years, and became + widely known as the China gardens. Mr. Denny does not seem to + have planted orchard to any extent here, but at Second and Seneca + he had quite an orchard. Forming what later became a part of the + original D. T. Denny farm was a large tract of open, boggy land + running well through the center of Mr. Denny's claim from about + Third Avenue down to Lake Union. This was overgrown largely with + willow and swamp shrubs. In ancient times it was either a lake or + beaver marsh, and long after the whites came, ducks frequented + the place. The house built at Second Avenue and Seneca Street by + Mr. Denny was a small one-story structure of three or four rooms. + + "In 1871 Mr. Denny built another homestead of the D. T. Denny + family at this place. It was, after its completion, one of the + most commodious and important houses in the city. This house was + built overlooking Lake Union, instead of the bay. The site + selected was on what is now Dexter Avenue and Republican Street. + This house still stands, a twelve or fourteen-room house, + surrounded by orchard and grounds." + + +BUILT A NEW HOME. + + "Mr. Denny lived at the Lake Union home until just after the big + fire here in 1889, when he began the erection and completed a + fine mansion on Queen Anne Avenue, with fine grounds, but he did + not long have the pleasure of residing here. The unfortunate + business enterprises in which he soon found himself engulfed, + swept away his vast wealth, and 'Honest Dave,' as he had become + familiarly to be known, was left without a place wherein to rest + his head." + +These tributes also recite something of the story of his life: + + "He was one of the original locators of donation claims on + Elliott Bay, within the present limits of Seattle. The two + Dennys, David and his brother, Arthur, now deceased; Dr. Maynard, + Carson D. Boren and W. N. Bell, were the first locators of the + land upon which the main portion of Seattle now rests. All of + them, save Boren, have passed away, and Boren has not lived in + Seattle for many years; so it may be said that David Denny was + the last of the Seattle pioneers. Of his seventy-one years of + life, fifty-two were passed on Puget Sound and fifty-one in the + City of Seattle, in the upbuilding of which he bore a prominent + part. + + "With his original donation claim and lands subsequently + acquired, Mr. Denny was for many years the heaviest property + owner in actual acreage in Seattle. Most of his holdings had + passed into the hands of others before his death. In his efforts + to build up the city he engaged in the promotion of many large + enterprises, and was carrying large liabilities, although well + within the limit of his financial ability, when the panic of ten + years ago rendered it impossible to realize upon any property of + any value, and left equities in real property covered even by + light mortgages, absolutely valueless. In that disastrous period + he, among all Seattle's citizens, was stricken the hardest blow, + but he never lost the hope or the energy of the born pioneer, nor + faith in the destinies of the city which he had helped to found. + His name remains permanently affixed to many of the monuments of + Seattle, and he will pass into history as one of the men who laid + the foundations of one of the great cities of the world, and who + did much in erecting the superstructure. + + "In the enthusiasms of early life the ambitious men and women of + America turn their faces toward 'the setting sun' and bravely + assume the task of building homes in uninhabited places and + transforming the wilderness into prosperous communities. Those + who undertake such work are to be listed among God's + noblemen--for without such men little progress would be made in + the development of any country. + + "For more than a hundred years one of the interesting features of + life in the United States is that connected with pioneering. The + men and women of energy are usually possessed with an adventurous + spirit which chafes under the fixed customs and inflexible + conservatism of the older communities, and longs to take a hand + in crowding the frontier toward the Pacific. + + "The poet has said that only the brave start out West and only + the strong success in getting there. Thus it is that those, who, + more than a half century ago, elected to cross the American + continent were from the bravest of the eastern or middle portion + of the United States. Many who started turned back; others died + by the wayside. Only the 'strong' reached their destination. + + "Of this class was the small party which landed at Alki Point in + the late summer of 1851 and began the task of building up a + civilization where grew the gigantic forests and where roamed the + dusky savage. Of that number was David T. Denny, the last + survivor but one, C. D. Boren, of the seven men who composed the + first white man's party to camp on the shores of Elliott Bay. + + "It requires some stretch of the imagination to view the + surroundings that enveloped that band of hardy pioneers and to + comprehend the magnitude of the task that towered before them. It + was no place for the weak or faint-hearted. There was work to + do--and no one shirked. + + "Since then more than fifty years have come and gone, and from + the humble beginnings made by David T. Denny and the others has + grown a community that is the metropolis of the Pacific Northwest + and which, a few years hence, will be the metropolis of the + entire Pacific Coast. That this has been the product of these + initial efforts is due in a large measure to the energy, the + example, the business integrity and public spirit of him whose + demise is now mourned as that of the last but one of the male + survivors of that little party of pioneers of 1851. + + "The history of any community can be told in the biographies of a + few of the leading men connected with its affairs. The history of + Seattle can be told by writing a complete biography of David T. + Denny. He was among the first to recognize that here was an + eligible site for a great city. He located a piece of land with + this object in view and steadfastly he clung to his purpose. When + a public enterprise was to be planned that would redound to the + growth and prestige of Seattle he was at the front, pledging his + credit and contributing of his means. + + "Then came a time in the growth of cities on the Pacific Coast + when the spirit of speculation appeared to drive men mad. Great + schemes were laid and great enterprises planned. Some of them + were substantial; some of them were not. With a disposition to do + anything honorable that would contribute to the glory of Seattle, + David T. Denny threw himself into the maelstrom with all of his + earthly possessions and took chances of increasing his already + handsome fortune. Then came the panic of 1893 and Mr. Denny was + among many other Seattle men who emerged from the cataclysm + without a dollar. + + "Subsequent years made successful the enterprise that proved the + financial ruin of so many of Seattle's wealthy, but it was too + late for those who had borne the brunt of the battle. Others came + in to reap where the pioneers had sown and the latter were too + far along in years to again take up the struggle of accumulating + a competence. His declining years were passed in the circle of + loving friends who never failed to speak of him as the + personification of honesty and integrity and one whose noble + traits of character in this respect were worthy of all + emulation." + +The following is an epitaph written for his tomb: + + "David Thomas Denny, Born March 17th, 1832, Died Nov. 25th, 1903. + The first of the name to reach Puget Sound, landing at Duwampsh + Head, Sept. 25th, 1851. A great pioneer from whose active and + worthy life succeeding generations will reap countless benefits." + + "He giveth his beloved sleep." + +The early days of the State, or rather, Territory, of Washington +produced a distinct type of great men, one of whom was David Thomas +Denny. + +Had Washington a poet to tell of the achievements of her heroic founders +and builders a considerable epic would be devoted to the remarkable +career and character of this noble man. + +At the risk of repetition I append this slight recapitulation: + +The first of the name to set foot on Puget Sound, _Oregon Territory_, +September 25th, 1851, he then evinced the characteristics more fully +developed in after years. + +He had crossed the plains and then from Portland proceeded to Puget +Sound by the old Hudson Bay trail. He landed at Duwampsh Head where now +is West Seattle, and there met and shook hands with Chief Sealth, or old +Seattle as the whites called him. He helped to build the first cabin +home at Alki Point. He alone was the Committee of Reception when the +notable party landed from the "Exact." He ran the race of the bravest of +the brave pioneers. + +Beginning at the very bottom of the ladder, he worked with his hands, as +did the others, at every sort of work to be found in a country entirely +unimproved. + +A ready axman, a very Nimrod, a natural linguist, he began the attack on +the mighty forest, he slew wild animals and birds for food, he made +friends with the native tribes. + +He builded, planted, harvested, helped to found schools, churches, +government and civilized society. Always and everywhere he embodied and +upheld scriptural morality and temperance. + +Many now living could testify to his untiring service to the stranded +newcomers. Employment, money, credit, hospitality, time, advice, he gave +freely to help and encourage the settlers following the pioneers. + +He was Probate Judge, County Treasurer, City Councilman, Regent of the +University, School Director for twelve years, etc., etc. He administered +a number of estates with extreme care and faithfulness. + +David T. Denny early realized that Seattle was a strategic site for a +great city and by thrifty investments in wild land prepared for +settlements sure to come. + +After long years of patient toil, upright dealing and wise management, +he began to accumulate until his property was worth a fortune. + +With increasing wealth his generosity increased and he gave liberally to +carry on all the institutions of a civilized community. + +David T. Denny gave "Denny Park" to the City of Seattle. + +Denny school was named for him, as is perfectly well known to many +persons. + +As prosperity increased he became more active in building the city and +lavished energy, toil, property and money, installing public enterprises +and utilities, such as water supply, electric lights, a large sawmill, +banks, street railways, laying off additions to the city, grading and +improvements, etc., etc. + +Then came 1893, the black year of trade. Thousands lost all they +possessed. David T. Denny suffered a martyrdom of disappointment, +humiliation, calumny, extreme and undeserved reproach from those who +crammed themselves with securities, following the great money panic in +which his immense holdings passed into the hands of others. + +He was a soldier of the Indian war and was on guard near the door of +Fort Decatur when the memorable attack took place on January 26th, 1856. +The fort was built of timbers hewn by D. T. Denny and two others, taken +from his donation claim. These timbers were brought to Seattle, then a +little settlement of about three hundred people. There he helped to +build the fort. + +Many persons have expressed a desire to see a fitting memorial erected +to the memory of Seattle's "Fairy Prince," Founder and Defender, David +Thomas Denny. + +I feel the inadequacy of these fragmentary glimpses of the busy life of +this well known pioneer. I have not made a set arrangement of the +material as I wished to preserve the testimony of others, hence there +appear some repetitions; an accurate and intimate biography may come in +the future. + +Logically, his long, active, useful life in the Northwest, might be +divided into epochs on this wise: + +1st. The log cabin and "claim" era, in which, within my own memory, he +was seen toiling early and late, felling the forest giants, cultivating +the soil, superintending Indian workers and bringing in game, killed +with his rifle. + +2nd. The farm-home era, when he built a substantial house on his part of +the donation claim, near the south end of Lake Union, obtained cattle +(famous Jersey stock of California), horses, etc. The home then achieved +by himself and his equally busy wife, was one to be desired, surrounded +as it was by beautiful flowers, orchards, wide meadows and pastures, and +outside these, the far-spreading primeval forest. + +3rd. Town-building. The west end of the claim, belonging to Louisa +Denny, was first platted; other plats followed, as may be seen by +reference to Seattle records. Commercial opportunities loomed large and +he entered upon many promising enterprises. All these flourished for a +time. + +4th. 1893. The failure of Baring Bros., as he told me repeatedly, began +it--theirs being the result of having taken bonds of the Argentine +Republic, and a revolution happening along, $100,000,000.00 went by the +board; a sizable failure. + +Partly on account of this and partly on account of the vast advantage of +the lender over the borrower, and partly through the vast anxiety of +those who held his securities, they were able to distribute among +themselves his hard-earned fortune. + +"A certain man went down from Jerusalem to Jericho and fell among +thieves, which stripped him of his raiment and wounded him and departed +leaving him half dead." + +The Deficiency Judgment also loomed large and frequent and his last days +were disturbed by those who still pressed their greedy claims, even +following after his death, with a false, unjust and monstrous sale of +the cemetery in which he lies buried! + +But he is with the just men made perfect. + +Law, custom and business methods have permitted, from time immemorial, +gross injustice to debtors; formerly they were imprisoned; a man might +speedily pay his debts, if in prison! + +The Deficiency Judgment and renewal of the same gives opportunity for +greedy and unprincipled creditors to rob the debtor. There should be a +law compelling the return of the surplus. When one class of people make +many times their money out of the misfortunes of others, there is +manifestly great inequality. + +The principles of some are to grab all they can, "skin" all they can, +and follow up all they can even to the _graveyard_. + + +"THESE THINGS OUGHT NOT SO TO BE." + +5th. In the end he laid down all earthly things, and in spite of grief +and suffering, showed a clear perception and grasp of justice, mercy and +truth. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +THE FIRST WEDDING ON ELLIOTT BAY. + + +Concerning this notable occurrence many interesting incidents were +recorded by an interviewer who obtained the same from the lips of David +Thomas Denny. + + "On January 23rd, 1895, Mr. and Mrs. David T. Denny celebrated + their forty-second wedding anniversary--and the anniversary of + the first wedding in Seattle--in their home at 'Decatur Terrace' + (512 Temperance Street), Seattle, with a gathering of children, + grandchildren, relatives and friends that represented four + distinctive generations. + + "One of the notable features of the evening was the large + gathering of pioneers who collectively represented more years of + residence in Seattle than ever were found together before. + +[Illustration: LOUISA B. DENNY] + + "What added interest to the occasion was the historical fact that + Mr. and Mrs. Denny were the first couple married in Seattle, and + the transition from the small, uncouth log cabin, built + forty-three years ago by the sturdy young pioneer for his bride, + to the present beautiful residence with all its modern + convenience in which the respected couple are enjoying the fruits + of a well spent life, was the subject of many congratulations + from the friends of the honored host and hostess who remembered + their early trials and tribulations. All present were more or + less connected with the history of Seattle, all knew one + another's history, and with their children and grandchildren the + gathering, unconventional in every respect, with the two-year-old + baby romping in the arms of the octogenarian, presented a + colossal, happy family reunion. + + "The old pioneer days were not forgotten, and one corner of the + reception room was made to represent the interior of a cabin, + lined with newspapers, decorated with gun, bullet pouch and + powder horn and measure, a calico sunbonnet, straw hat and + hunting shirt. + + "A table was set to represent one in the early fifties, namely, + two boards across two boxes, for a table, a smoked salmon, a tin + plate full of boiled potatoes, some sea biscuits and a few large + clams. Such a meal, when it was had, was supposed to be a feast. + + "Many other relics were in sight; a thirty-two pound solid shot, + fired by the sloop-of-war Decatur among the Indians during the + uprising; a ten-pound shot belonging to Dr. Maynard's cannon; a + pair of enormous elk's horns belonging to a six hundred and + thirty-pound elk killed by Mr. D. T. Denny, September 7th, 1869, + in the woods north west of Green Lake; the first Bible of the + family from which the eldest daughter, Miss Emily Inez, learned + her letters; an old-fashioned Indian halibut hook, an ingenious + contrivance; an old family Bible, once the property of the + father of David T. Denny, bearing the following inscription on + the inside cover: + + 'The property of J. Denny, + Purchased of J. Strange, + August the 15th, 1829, + Price 62-1/2 cents. + Putnam County, Indiana.' + + "Also a number of daguerreotypes of Mr. and Mrs. D. T. Denny in + the early years of their married life, taken in the fifties, and + one of W. G. Latimer and his sister. + + "All these and many more afforded food for conversation and + reminiscences on the part of the old pioneers present. + + "An informal programme introduced the social intercourse of the + evening. Harold Denny, a grandson of the hosts and son of Mr. + John B. Denny, made an address to his grandparents, giving them + the greeting of the assembly in these words: + + "'O fortunate, O happy day,' + The people sing, the people say, + The bride and bridegroom, pioneers, + Crowned now with good and gracious years + Serenely smile upon the scene. + The growing state they helped to found + Unto their praise shall yet redound. + O may they see a green old age, + With every leaf a written page + Of joy and peace from day to day. + In good, new times not far away + May people sing and people say, + 'Heaven bless their coming years; + Honor the noble Pioneers.' + + "The chief diversion was afforded by the sudden entrance of a + band of sixteen young men and women gorgeously dressed as + Indians, preceded by a runner who announced their approach. They + were headed by Capt. D. T. Davies who acted as chief. The band + marched in true Indian file, formed a circle and sat down on the + floor with their 'tamanuse' boards upon which they beat the old + time music and sang their Indian songs. After an impressive hush, + the chief addressed their white chief, Denny, in the Chinook + language, wishing Mr. and Mrs. Denny many returns of the + auspicious occasion. + + "Mr. Denny, who is an adept in the Indian languages, replied in + the same tongue, thanking his dark brethren for their good + intentions and speaking of the happy relations that always + existed between the whites and the Indians until bad white men + and whisky turned the minds and brains of the Indians. The + council then broke up and took their departure. + + "The marriage certificate of Mr. and Mrs. Denny is written on + heavy blue paper and has been so carefully preserved that, beyond + the slight fading of the ink, it is as perfect as when first + given in the dense forests on the shores of Elliott Bay. It reads + as follows: + + "'This may certify that David Denny and Louisa Boren were joined + in marriage at the residence of Arthur A. Denny in the County of + King and Territory of Oregon, by me in the presence of A. A. + Denny and wife and others, on this 23rd day of January, 1853. D. + S. Maynard, J. P.' + + "Another historical event, apropos right here, was the death and + burial of D. S. Maynard early in 1873. + + "The funeral services were conducted March 15, 1873, by Rev. John + F. Damon in Yesler's pavilion, then located at what is now Cherry + and Front Streets. The funeral was under the auspices of St. + John's lodge, of which Dr. Maynard was a member. The remains were + escorted to what is now Denny Park--the gift to the city, of Mr. + David T. Denny--and the casket was deposited and kept in the tool + house of that place until the trail could be cut to the new + Masonic--now Lake View--cemetery. Maynard's body was the first + interred there. + + "Miss Louisa Boren, who married Mr. David T. Denny, was the + younger sister of A. A. Denny's wife and came across the plains + with the Denny's in 1851. + + "The house of A. A. Denny, in which the marriage took place, was + located near the foot of what is now Bell Street, and was the + first cabin built by A. A. Denny when he moved over from Alki + Point. Seattle was then a dense forest down to the water's edge, + and had at that time, in the spring of 1852, only three cabins, + namely: C. D. Boren's, the bride's brother; W. N. Bell's and A. + A. Denny's. Boren's stood where now stands the Merchant's + National Bank, and Bell's was near the foot of Battery Street. + + "At first the forests were so dense that the only means of + communication was along the beach at low tide; after three or + four months, a trail was beaten between the three cabins. David + lived with his brother, but he built himself a cabin previous to + his marriage, near the foot of Denny Way, near and north of + Bell's house. To this lonely cabin in the woods, he took his + bride and they lived there until August, 1853, eking out an + existence like the other pioneers, chopping wood, cutting piles + for shipment, living on anyhow, but always managing to have + enough to eat, such as it was, with plenty of pure spring water. + + "In August, of 1853, he built a cabin on the spot where now the + Frye Block stands and they passed the winter of 1853 there. + + "In the spring of 1854 he built another cabin further east on the + donation claim, east of what is now Box Street, between Mercer + and Republican, and they moved into it, remaining there until + near the time of the Indian outbreak. + + "Mr. Denny had acquired a knowledge of the various Indian + dialects, and through this learned much of the threatened + outbreak, and moved his family in time back to the house on the + Frye Block site, which was also near the stockade or fort that + stood at the foot of Cherry Street. During the greater part of + the winter of 1855 the women in the settlement lived in the fort, + and Mrs. Denny passed much of the time there. + + "After the Indian trouble was over the Denny's moved out again to + their outside cabin. The Indians making the trouble were the + Swunumpsh and the Klickitats, from east of the mountains; the + Sound Indians, the Duwampsh and the Suquampsh, were friendly and + helped the whites a great deal. Sealth or Seattle belonged to the + Suquampsh tribe and his men gave the first warning of the + approach of the hostile Indians. + + "Mr. and Mrs. David T. Denny have had eight children, four + daughters and four sons. One son died shortly after birth, and all + the others grew to maturity, after which the father and mother + were called to mourn the loss of two daughters. Two daughters and + three sons survive, namely: Miss Emily Inez, Mrs. Abbie D. + Lindsley, Mr. John B. Denny, Mr. D. Thomas Denny and Mr. Victor + W. S. Denny. + + "The sons are all married and nine out of ten grandchildren were + present last evening to gladden the hearts of Grandpa and Grandma + Denny. The absent members of the family group were Mrs. John B. + Denny and daughter, in New York on a visit. + + "'People in these days of modern improvements and plenty know + nothing of the hardships the pioneer of forty years ago had to + undergo right here,' said Mr. Denny. + + "'Nearly forty years of life in a dense forest surrounded by + savages and wild beasts, with the hardest kind of work necessary + in order to eke out an existence, was the lot of every man and + woman here. It was a life of privation, inconveniences, + anxieties, fears and dangers innumerable, and required physical + and mental strength to live it out. Of course, we all had good + health, for in twenty-four years' time we only had a doctor four + times. Our colony grew little by little, good men and bad men + came in and by the time the Indians wanted to massacre us we had + about three hundred white men, women and children. We got our + provisions from ships that took our piles and then the Indians + also furnished us with venison, potatoes, fish, clams and wild + fowl. Flour, sugar and coffee we got from San Francisco. When we + could get no flour, we made a shift to live on potatoes.' + + "In speaking of cold weather, Mr. Denny recalled the year of + 1852, when it was an open winter until March 3, but that night + fourteen inches of snow fell and made it the coldest winter, all + in that one month. The next severe winter was that of 1861-2, + which was about the coldest on record. During those cold spells + the pioneers kept warm cutting wood. + + "The unique invitations sent out for this anniversary, consisted + of a fringed piece of buck-skin stretched over the card and + painted '1851, Ankuti. 1895, Okoke Sun.' They were well responded + to, and every room in the large house was filled with interested + guests, from the baby in arms to the white haired friend of the + old people. Pioneers were plenty, and it is doubtful if there + ever was a gathering in the City of Seattle that could aggregate + so many years of residence in the Queen City of the West on the + shores of Elliott Bay. + + "Arranged according to families, and classing those as pioneers + who came prior to the Indian war of 1855-6, the following list + will be found of historical value: + + "Rev. and Mrs. D. E. Blaine, pioneers; A. A. Denny, brother of D. + T. Denny; Loretta Denny, sister of D. T. Denny; Lenora Denny, + daughter of A. A. Denny; Rev. and Mrs. Daniel Bagley, pioneers of + 1852, Oregon, Seattle 1860; Mrs. Clarence B. Bagley, daughter of + Thomas Mercer, 1852; C. B. Bagley, pioneer, 1852 Oregon, Seattle + 1860; Hillory Butler, pioneer; Mrs. Gardner Kellogg, daughter of + Bonney, Pierce County 1853; Walter Graham, pioneer; Rev. Geo. F. + Whitworth, pioneer; Thomas Mercer, 1852 Oregon, Seattle 1853; + David Graham, 1858; Mrs. Susan Graham, daughter of Thomas Mercer; + Mrs. S. D. Libby, wife of Captain Libby, pioneer; George Frye, + 1853; Mrs. Katherine Frye, daughter of A. A. Denny; Sophie and + Bertie Frye, granddaughters of A. A. Denny; Mrs. Mamie Kauffman + Dawson, granddaughter of Wm. N. Bell, pioneer; Mr. and Mrs. D. B. + Ward, pioneers (Mrs. Ward, daughter of Charles Byles, of Thurston + County, 1853); Mrs. Abbie D. Lindsley, daughter of D. T. and + Louisa Denny; the Bryans, all children of Edgar Bryan, a pioneer + of Thurston County; J. W. George, pioneer 1852; Orange Jacobs, + pioneer of Oregon." + +In another chapter it has been shown how D. T. Denny was the first of +the name to reach Puget Sound. Not having yet attained his majority he +was required to consider, judge and act for himself and others. Like the +two spies, who entered the Promised Land in ancient days, Low and Denny +viewed the goodly shores of Puget Sound for the sake of others by whom +their report was anxiously awaited. + +As before stated, Low returned to carry the tidings of the wonderful +country bordering on the Inland Sea, while David T. Denny, but nineteen +years of age, was left alone, the only white person on Elliott Bay, +until the Exact came with the brave families of the first settlers. From +that time on he has been in the forefront of progress and effort, +beginning at the very foundation of trade, business enterprises, +educational interests, religious institutions and reforms. From the +early conditions of hard toil in humble occupations, through faith, +foresight and persistence, he rose to a leading position in the business +world, when his means were lavished in modern enterprises and +improvements through which many individuals and the general public were +benefited, said improvements being now in daily use in the City of +Seattle. + +One of these is the Third Street and Suburban Electric Railway, built +and equipped by this energetic pioneer and his sons. + +The old donation claim having become valuable city property, the +taxation was heavy to meet the expenses of extravagant and wasteful +administration partly, and partly incidental to the phenomenal growth of +the city, consequently both Mr. and Mrs. D. T. Denny have paid into the +public treasury a considerable fortune, ten or twelve thousand a year +for ten years, twenty thousand for grades, six thousand at a time for +school tax and so on--much more than they were able to use for +themselves. + + * * * * * + +A fascinating volume would recount their hunting adventures, as all, +father and sons, are fine shots; game, both large and small, swarmed +about the present site of Seattle in the early days. + +Indeed, for many years the bounty of Nature failed not; as late as 1879, +ruffed grouse or "pheasants," blue grouse, brown and black bears were +numerous seven or eight miles north of Seattle, a region then untenanted +wilds. The women folk were not always left behind on hunting +expeditions, and the pioneer mother, and daughters, too, quite often +accompanied them. + +Into this primeval wilderness, to a mineral spring known and visited by +the Indians in times past and called by them Licton, came the father, +mother and eldest son to enjoy all they might discover. The two hunting +dogs proved necessary and important members of the party by rousing up a +big black bear and her cubs near the spring,--but we will let the +pioneer mother, Mrs. Louisa Denny, tell the tale as she has often told +it in the yesterdays: + + "We were out in the deep forest at the mineral spring the Indians + call 'Licton'; the two dogs, Prince and Gyp, treed a black bear + cub in a tall fir on the farther side of the brook, a little way + along the trail; the hunters pressed up and fired. Receiving a + shot, the cub gave a piercing scream and, tumbling down, aroused + the old bear, which, though completely hidden by the undergrowth, + answered it with an enraged roar that sounded so near that the + hunters fled without ceremony. I sat directly in the path, on the + ends of some poles laid across the brook for a foot bridge, very + calmly resting and not at all excited--as yet. My boy yelled to + me, at the top of his voice, 'Get up a tree, mother! get up a + tree, quick! The old bear is coming!' Hearing a turmoil at the + foot of the big tree, where the dogs, old bear and two cubs were + engaged in a general melee, I also thought it best to 'get up a + tree.' We dashed across the brook and climbed up a medium sized + alder tree--the boy first, myself next, and my husband last and + not very far from the ground. We could hear the bear crashing + around through the tall bushes and ferns, growling at every step + and only a little way off, but she did not come out in sight. The + dogs came and lay down under the tree where we were. Two long, + weary hours we watched for Bruin, and then, everything being + quiet, climbed down, stiff and sore, parted the brushes + cautiously and reconnoitered. One climbed up a leaning tree to + get a better view, but there was no view to be had, the woods + were so thick. We crept along softly until we reached the foot of + the big fir, and there lay the wounded cub, dead! The hunters + dragged it a long distance, looking back frequently and feeling + very uncertain, as they had no means of knowing the whereabouts + of the enemy. I walked behind carrying one of the guns. Perhaps I + was cruel in asking them if they looked behind them when they + tacked the skin on the barn at home! However, it was certainly a + case of discretion better than valor, as one weapon was only a + shotgun and the rank undergrowth gave no advantage. It seemed to + make everybody laugh when we told of our adventure, but I did not + think the experience altogether amusing, and I shall never forget + that mother-bear's roar. They have killed plenty of big game + since; my two younger boys shot a fine, large black bear whose + beautiful skin adorns my parlor floor and is much admired." + +This is but one incident in the life of a pioneer woman, the greater +portion of whose existence has been spent in the wilds of the Northwest. +In perils oft, in watchings many, in often uncongenial toil, Louisa +Boren Denny spent the years of her youth and prime, as did the other +pioneer mothers. + +"What a book the story of my life would make!" she exclaimed in a +retrospective mood--yet, like the majority of the class she typifies, +she has left the book unwritten, while hand and brain have been busy +with the daily duties pressing on her. + +A childhood on the beautiful, flower-decked, virgin prairie of Illinois, +in the log cabin days of that state, the steadfast pursuit of knowledge +until maturity, when she went out to instruct others, the breaking of +many ties of friendship to accompany her relatives across the plains, +the joy of new scenes so keenly appreciated by the observant mind, the +self-denials and suffering inevitable to that stupendous journey and the +reaching of the goal on Puget Sound, at once the beginning and the +ending of eventful days, might be the themes of its opening chapters. + +Her marriage and the rearing of beautiful and gifted children, in the +midst of the solemn and noble solitudes of Nature's great domain, where +they often wandered together hand in hand, she the gentle teacher, they +the happy learners, green boughs and fair blossoms bending near--yes, +the toil, too, as well as pleasure, in which the willing hands wrought +and tireless feet hastened to and fro in the service of her God, all +these things I shared in are indelibly written on my memory's pages, +though they be never recorded elsewhere. + + +AND WHILE SHE WROUGHT, SHE THOUGHT + +Many times in the latter years, spoken opinions have shown that she has +originated ideas of progress and reform that have been subsequently +brought before the public as initiative and original, but were no less +original with her. + +Mrs. Louisa Denny was a member of the famous grand jury, with several +other women of the best standing; during their term the gamblers packed +their grip-sacks to leave Seattle, as those "old women on the jury" were +making trouble for them. + +For many years she was called upon or volunteered to visit the sick, +anon to be present at a surgical operation, and with ready response and +steady nerve complied. + +Generous to a fault, hospitable and kind, in countless unknown deeds of +mercy and unrecorded words, she expressed good-will toward humanity, and +the recipients, a goodly company, might well arise up and call her +"Blessed." + +A separate sketch is given in which the life of the first bride of +Seattle is more fully set forth. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +LOUISA BOREN DENNY, THE FIRST BRIDE OF SEATTLE, + + +Was born in White County, Illinois, on the 1st of June, 1827, and is the +daughter of Richard Freeman Boren and Sarah Latimer Boren. Her father, a +young Baptist minister, died when she was an infant, and she has often +said, "I have missed my father all my life." A religious nature seems to +have been inherited, as she has also said, "I cannot remember when I did +not pray to God." + +Her early youth was spent on the great prairies, then a veritable garden +adorned with many beautiful wild flowers, in the log cabin with her +widowed, pioneer mother, her sister Mary and brother Carson. + +She learned to be industrious and thrifty without parsimony; to be +simple, genuine, faithful. In the heat of summer or cold of winter she +trudged to school, as she loved learning, showing, as her mind +developed, a natural aptitude and taste for the sciences; chemistry, +philosophy, botany and astronomy being her especial delights. + +Of a striking personal appearance, her fair complexion with a deep rose +flush in the cheeks, sparkling eyes, masses of heavy black hair, small +and perfect figure, would have attracted marked attention in any circle. + +Her temperate and wholesome life, never given to fashion's follies, +retained for her these points of beauty far beyond middle life, when +many have lost all semblance of their youth and have become faded and +decrepit. + +Her school life merged into the teacher's and she took her place in the +ranks of the pioneer instructors, who were truly heroic. + +She taught with patience the bare-foot urchins, some of whom were +destined for great things, and boarded 'round as was the primitive +custom. + +Going to camp meetings in the summer, lectures and singing schools in +the winter were developing influences in those days, and primitive +pleasures were no less delightful; the husking-bees, quilting parties +and sleigh rides of fifty years ago in which she participated. + +In 1851, when she was twenty-four years of age, she joined the army of +pioneers moving West, in the division composed of her mother's and +step-father's people, her mother having married John Denny and her +sister Mary, A. A. Denny. + +[Illustration: FLOWER GARDEN PLANTED BY LOUISA B. DENNY] + +With what buoyant spirits, bright with hope and anticipation, they set +out, except for the cloud of sorrow that hovered over them for the +parting with friends they left behind. But they soon found it was to be +a hard-fought battle. Louisa Boren, the only young, unmarried woman of +the party, found many things to do in assisting those who had family +cares. Her delight in nature was unlimited, and although she found no +time to record her observations and experiences, her anecdotes and +descriptions have given pleasure to others in after years. + +She possessed dauntless courage and in the face of danger was cool and +collected. + +It was she who pleaded for the boat to be turned inshore on a memorable +night on the Columbia River, when they came so near going over the falls +(the Cascades) owing to the stupefied condition of the men who had been +imbibing "Blue Ruin" too freely. + +When the party arrived at Alki Point on Puget Sound, although the +outlook was not cheerful, she busied herself a little while after +landing in observing the luxuriant and, to her, curious vegetation. + +She soon made friends with the Indians and succeeded admirably in +dealing with them, having patience and showing them kindness, for which +they were not ungrateful. + +It transpired that the first attempt at building on the site of Seattle, +so far as known to the writer, is to be credited to Louisa Boren and +another white woman, who crossed Elliott Bay in a canoe with Indian +paddlers and a large dog to protect them from wild animals. They made +their way through an untouched forest, and the two women cut and laid +logs for the foundation of a cabin. + +As she was strikingly beautiful, young and unmarried, both white and +Indian braves thought it would be a fine thing to win her hand, and +intimations of this fact were not wanting. The young Indians brought +long poles with them and leaned them up against the cabin at Alki, the +significance of which was not at first understood, but it was afterward +learned that they were courtship poles, according to their custom. + +The white competitors found themselves distanced by the younger Denny, +who was the first of the name to set foot on Puget Sound. + +On January 23rd, 1853, in the cabin of A. A. Denny, on the east side of +Elliott Bay, Louisa Boren was married to David T. Denny. + +In order to fulfil law and custom, David had made a trip to Olympia and +back in a canoe to obtain a marriage license, but was told that no one +there had authority to issue one, so he returned undaunted to proceed +without it; neither was there a minister to perform the ceremony, but +Dr. Maynard, who was a Justice of the Peace, successfully tied the knot. + +Among the few articles of wearing apparel it was possible to transport +to these far-off shores in a time of slow and difficult travel, was a +white lawn dress, which did duty as a wedding gown. + +The young couple moved their worldly possessions in an Indian canoe to +their own cabin on the bay, about a mile and a half away, in a little +clearing at the edge of the vast forest. + +Here began the life of toil and struggle which characterized the early +days. + +Then came the Indian war. A short time before the outbreak, while they +were absent at the settlement, some Indians robbed the cabin; as they +returned they met the culprits. Mrs. Denny noticed that one of them had +adorned his cap with a white embroidered collar and a gray ribbon +belonging to her. The young rascal when questioned said that the other +one had given them to him. Possibly it was true; at any rate when George +Seattle heard of it he gave the accused a whipping. + +The warnings given by their Indian friends were heeded and they retired +to the settlement, to a little frame house not far from Fort Decatur. + +On the morning of the battle, January 26th, Louisa Boren Denny was +occupied with the necessary preparation of food for her family. She +heard shots and saw from her window the marines swarming up from their +boats onto Yesler's wharf, and rightly judging that the attack had begun +she snatched the biscuits from the oven, turned them into her apron, +gathered up her child, two years old, and ran toward the fort. Her +husband, who was standing guard, met her and assisted them into the +fort. + +A little incident occurred in the fort which showed her strong +temperance principles. One of the officers, perhaps feeling the need of +something to strengthen his courage, requested her to pour out some +whisky for him, producing a bottle and glass; whether or no his hand +was already unsteady from fear or former libations, she very properly +refused and has, throughout her whole life, discouraged the use of +intoxicants. + +A number of the settlers remained in the fort for some time, as it was +unsafe for them to return to their claims. + +On the 16th of March, 1856, her second child was born in Fort Decatur. + +With this infant and the elder of two years and three months, they +journeyed back again into the wilderness, where she took up the toilsome +and uncertain life of the frontier. "There was nothing," she has said, +"that was too hard or disagreeable for me to undertake." + +All the work of the house and even lending a hand at digging and +delving, piling and burning brush outside, and the work was done without +questioning the limits of her "spere." + +They removed again to the edge of the settlement and lived for a number +of years in a rose-embowered cottage on Seneca Street. + +Accumulating cares filled the years, but she met them with the same high +courage throughout. Her sons and daughters were carefully brought up +and given every available advantage even though it cost her additional +sacrifice. + +Her half of the old donation claim became very valuable in time as city +property, but the enormous taxation robbed her to a considerable extent +of its benefits. + +The manner of life of this heroic mother, type of her race, was such as +to develop the noblest traits of character. The patience, steadfastness, +courage, hopefulness and the consideration for the needs and trials of +others, wrought out in her and others like her, during the pioneer days, +challenge the admiration of the world. + +I have seen the busy toil, the anxious brow, the falling tears of the +pioneer woman as she tended her sick or fretful child, hurried the +dinner for the growing family and the hired Indians who were clearing, +grubbing or ditching, bent over the washtub to cleanse the garments of +the household, or up at a late hour to mend little stockings for +restless feet, meanwhile helping the young students of the family to +conquer the difficulties that lay before them. + +The separation from dearly loved friends, left far behind, wrought upon +the mind of the pioneer woman to make her sad to melancholy, but after a +few years new ties were formed and new interests grasped to partially +wear this away, but never entirely, it is my opinion. + +She traveled on foot many a weary mile or rode over the roughest roads +in a jolting, springless wagon; in calm or stormy weather in the +tip-tilting Indian canoes, or on the back of the treacherous cayuse, +carrying her babes with her through dangerous places, where to care for +one's self would seem too great a burden to most people, patient, calm, +uncomplaining. + +The little brown hands were busy from morning to night in and about the +cabin or cottage; seldom could a disagreeable task be delegated to +another; to dress the fish and clams, dig the potatoes in summer as +needed for the table, pluck the ducks and grouse, cook and serve the +same, fell to her lot before the children were large enough to assist. +Moreover, to milk the cows, feed the horses, chop wood occasionally, +shoot at predatory birds and animals, burn brush piles and plant a +garden and tactfully trade with the Indians were a few of the +accomplishments she mastered and practiced with skill and success. + +In the summer time this mother took the children out into the great +evergreen forest to gather wild berries for present and future use. +While the youngest slept under giant ferns or drooping cedar, she filled +brimming pails with the luscious fruit, salmonberry, dewberry or +huckleberry in their seasons. Here, too, the older children could help, +and there was an admixture of pleasure in stopping to gather the wild +scarlet honeysuckle, orange lilies, snowy Philadelphus, cones, mosses +and lichens and listening to the "blackberry bird," as we called the +olive-backed thrush, or the sigh of the boughs overhead. + +The family dog went along, barking cheerfully at every living thing, +chasing rabbits, digging out "suwellas" or scaring up pheasants and +grouse which the eldest boy would shoot. It was a great treat to the +children, but when all returned home, tired after the day's adventure, +it was mother's hands prepared the evening meal and put the sleepy +children to bed. + +Everywhere that she has made her home, even for a few years, she has +cultivated a garden of fragrant and lovely flowers, a source of much +pleasure to her family and friends. The old-fashioned roses and +hollyhocks, honeysuckles and sweet Williams grew and flourished, with +hosts of annuals around the cottage on Seneca Street in the '60s, and +at the old homestead on Lake Union the old and new garden favorites ran +riot; so luxuriant were the Japan and Ascension lilies, the velvety +pansies, tea, climbing, moss and monthly roses, fancy tulips, English +violets, etc., etc., as to call forth exclamations from passersby. Some +were overheard in enthusiastic praise saying, "Talk about Florida! just +look at these flowers!" + +The great forest, with its wealth of beautiful flowers and fruitful +things, gave her much delight; the wild flowers, ferns, vines, mosses, +lichens and evergreens, to which she often called our attention when we +all went blackberrying or picnicing in the old, old time. + +The grand scenery of the Northwest accords with her thought-life. She +always keenly enjoys the oft-recurring displays of wonderful color in +the western sky, the shimmering waves under moon or sun, the majestic +mountains and dark fir forests that line the shores of the Inland Sea. + +In early days she was of necessity everything in turn to her family; +when neither physician nor nurse was readily obtainable, her treatment +of their ailments commanded admiration, as she promptly administered and +applied with excellent judgment the remedies at her command with such +success that professional service was not needed for thirty years except +in case of accident of unusual kind. + +She looked carefully to the food, fresh air, exercise and bathing of her +little flock with the most satisfying results. She believes in the house +for the people, not the people for the house, and has invariably put the +health and comfort of her household before her care for things. + +Her mind is one to originate and further ideas of reform and eagerly +appropriate the best of others' conclusions. + +Ever the sympathetic counsellor and friend of her children in work and +study, she shared their pastimes frequently as well. She remembers +going through the heavy forest which once surrounded Lake Union with her +boys trout-fishing in the outlet of the lake; while she poked the fish +with a pole from their hiding places under the bank the boys would gig +them, having good success and much lively sport. + +On one trip they had the excitement of a cougar hunt; that is, the +cougar seemed to be hunting them, but they "made tracks" and +accomplished their escape; the cougar was afterward killed. + +Several other of her adventures are recounted elsewhere. It would +require hundreds of pages to set forth a moving picture of the stirring +frontier life in which she participated. + +Louisa Boren Denny is a pioneer woman of the best type. + +Her charities have been many; kind and encouraging words, sympathy and +gifts to the needy and suffering; her nature is generous and unselfish, +and, though working quietly, her influence is and has ever been none the +less potent for good. + +"Peace hath her victories no less renowned than war." + +Of the victories over environment and circumstances much might be +written. The lack of comforts and conveniences compelled arduous manual +toil and the busy "brown hands" found many homely duties to engage their +activities. In and out of the cabins the high-browed pioneer mothers +wrought, where now the delicate dames, perhaps, indolently occupy +luxuriant homes. + +It is impossible for these latter to realize the loneliness, wildness +and rudeness of the surroundings of the pioneer women. Instead of +standing awed before the dauntless souls that preceded them, with a toss +of the head they say, "You might endure such things but we couldn't, _we +are so much finer clay_." + +The friends they left behind were sorely regretted; one pioneer woman +said the most cruel deprivation was the rarity of letters from home +friends, the anxious waiting month after month for some word that might +tell of their well-being. Neither telegraph nor fleet mail service had +then been established. + +The pioneer woman learned to face every sort of danger from riding rough +water in an Indian canoe to hunting blackberries where bears, panthers +and Indians roamed the deep forest. One said that she would not go +through it again for the whole State of Washington. + +Each was obliged to depend almost wholly on herself and was compelled to +invent and apply many expedients to feed and clothe herself and little +ones. There was no piano playing or fancy work for her, but she made, +mended and re-made, cooked, washed and swept, helped put in the garden +or clear the land, all the time instructing her children as best she +could, and by both precept and example, inculcating those high +principles that mark true manhood and womanhood. + +The typical band of pioneer women who landed on Alki Point, all but one +of whom sat down to weep, have lived to see a great city built, in less +than a half century, the home of thousands who reap the fruits of their +struggles in the wilderness. + +The heroic endurance with which they toiled and waited, many years, the +tide in their affairs, whereby they attained a moderate degree of ease, +comfort and freedom from anxiety, all so hardily won, is beyond words of +admiration. + +The well-appointed kitchen of today, with hot and cold water on tap, +fine steel range, cupboards and closets crowded with every sort of +cunning invention in the shape of utensils for cooking, is a luxurious +contrast to the meager outfit of the pioneer housewife. As an example of +the inconvenience and privations of the early '50s, I give the following +from the lips of one of the pioneer daughters, Sarah (Bonney) Kellogg: + +"When we came to Steilacoom in 1853, we lived overhead in a rough lumber +store building, and my mother had to go up and down stairs and out into +the middle of the street or roadway and cook for a numerous family by a +stump fire. She owned the only sieve in the settlement, a large round +one; flour was $25.00 a barrel and had weevils in it at that, so every +time bread was made the flour had to be sifted to get them out. The +sieve was very much in demand and frequently the children were sent here +or there among the neighbors to bring it home. + +"We had sent to Olympia for a stove, but it was six weeks before it +reached its destination." + +Think of cooking outdoors for six weeks for a family of growing +children, with only the fewest possible dishes and utensils, too! + +Any woman of the present time may imagine, if she will, what it would be +to have every picture, or other ornament, every article of furniture, +except the barest necessities for existence, the fewest possible in +number, every fashionable garment, her house itself with its vines and +shrubbery suddenly vanish and raise her eyes to see without the somber +forest standing close around; within, the newspapered or bare walls of a +log cabin, a tiny window admitting little light, a half-open door, but +darkened frequently by savage faces; or to strain her ears to catch the +song, whistle or step of her husband returning through the dark forest, +fearing but hoping and praying that he may not have fallen on the way by +the hand of a foe. She might look down to see her form clad in homely +garments of cotton print, moccasins on her feet, and her wandering +glance touch her sunbonnet hanging on a peg driven between the logs. + +Now and then a wild cry sounds faintly or fully over the water or from +the sighing depths of the vast wilderness. + +An unusual challenge by ringing stentorian voices may call her to the +door to scan the face of the waters and see great canoes loaded with +brawny savages, whose intentions are uncertain, paddled swiftly up the +bay, instead of the familiar sound of steam whistles and gliding in of +steamships to a welcome port. + +Should it be a winter evening and her companion late, they seat +themselves at a rude table and partake of the simplest food from the +barely sufficient dishes, meanwhile striving to reassure each other ere +retiring for the night. + +So day after day passed away and many years of them, the conditions +gradually modified by advancing civilization, yet rendered even more +arduous by increasing cares and toils incident upon the rearing and +educating of a family with very little, if any, assistance from such +sources as the modern mother has at her command. Physicians and nurses, +cooks and house-maids were almost entirely lacking, and the mother, with +what the father could help her, had to be all these in turn. + +In all ordinary, incipient or trifling ailments they necessarily became +skillful, and for many years kept their families in health with active +and vigorous bodies, clear brains and goodly countenances. + +The pioneer women are of sterling worth and character. The patience, +courage, purity and steadfastness which were developed in them presents +a moral resemblance to the holy women of old. + +Pioneer men are generally liberal in their views, as was witnessed when +the suffrage was bestowed upon the women of Washington Territory several +years ago. + + + + +CHAPTER Va. + +A NATIVE DAUGHTER, BORN IN FORT DECATUR. + + +Madge Decatur Denny was born in Fort Decatur, in the year of the Indian +war, on March 16th, 1856; to those sheltering walls had the gentle +mother, Louisa Boren Denny, fled on the day of battle. Ushered into the +world of danger and rude alarms, her nature proved, in its development, +one well suited to the circumstances and conditions; courage, +steadfastness and intrepidity were marked traits in her character. Far +from being outwardly indicated, they were rather contrasted by her +delicate and refined appearance; one said of her, "Madge is such a +dainty thing." + +Madge was a beautiful child, and woman, too, with great sparkling eyes, +abundant golden-brown curls and rosy cheeks. What a picture lingers in +my memory!--of this child with her arms entwined about the slender neck +of a pet fawn, her eyes shining with love and laughter, her burnished +hair shimmering like a halo in the sunlight as she pattered here and +there with her graceful playfellow. + +The Indians admired her exceedingly, and both they and the white people +of the little settlement often remarked upon her beauty. + +In early youth she showed a keen intellectuality, reading with avidity +at ten years such books as Irving's "Life of Washington," "History of +France," "Pilgrim's Progress," Sir Walter Scott's "Lay of the Last +Minstrel" and "Lady of the Lake." From that time on she read every book +or printed page that fell in her way; a very rapid reader, one who +seemed to take in a page at a few glances, she ranged happily over the +fields of literature like a bright-winged bird. Poetry, fiction, +history, bards, wits, essayists, all gave of their riches to her fresh, +inquiring young mind. + +The surpassing loveliness and grandeur of the "world in the open air" +appealed to her pure nature even in extreme youth; her friends recall +with wonder that when only two and a half years of age she marked the +enchantment of a scene in Oregon, of flowery mead, dark forest and deep +canyon, under a bright June sky, by plucking at her mother's gown and +lisping, "Look! mother, look! so pitty!" (pretty). + +[Illustration: DAUGHTERS OF D. T. AND LOUISA DENNY + + Emily Inez Madge Decatur Anna Louisa Mrs. Abbie + Denny-Lindsley] + +And such a lover of flowers! From this same season when she gathered +armfuls of great, golden buttercups, blue violets, scarlet columbines, +"flags" and lilies from the sunny slopes of the Waldo Hills, through her +youth, on the evergreen banks of Puget Sound where she climbed +fearlessly about to pluck the purple lupine, orange honeysuckle, Oregon +grape and sweet wild roses, was her love of them exemplified. Very often +she walked or rode on horseback some distance to procure the lovely +lady's slipper (Calypso borealis), the favorite flower of the pioneer +children. + +A charming letter writer, she often added the adornment of a tiny group +of wild flowers in the corner, a few yellow violets, fairylike +twin-flowers or lady's slippers. + +At one time she had a large correspondence with curious young Eastern +people who wished to know something of the far Northwest; to these she +sent accurate and graphic descriptions of tall trees, great mountains, +waterfalls, lakes and seas, beasts, birds and fishes. She possessed no +mean literary talent; without her knowledge some of her letters strayed +into print. A very witty one was published in a newspaper, cut out and +pasted in the scrapbook of an elocutionist, and to her astonishment +produced as a "funny piece" before an audience among whom she sat, the +speaker evidently not knowing its author. A parody on "Poe's Raven" made +another audience weep real tears in anguished mirth. + +Every felicitous phrase or quaint conceit she met was treasured up, and +to these were added not a few of her own invention, and woe betide the +wight who accompanied her to opera, concert or lecture, for her _sotto +voce_ comments, murmured with a grave countenance, were disastrous to +their composure and "company manners." + +It must be recorded of her that she gave up selfish pleasures to be her +mother's helper, whose chief stay she was through many years. In her +last illness she said, with much tenderness, "Mother, who will help you +now?" + +Madge was a true _lady_ or _loaf-giver_. Every creature, within or +without the domicile, partook of her generous care, from the pet canary +to the housedog, all the human inhabitants and the stranger within the +gates. + +Moreover, she was genuine, nothing she undertook was slighted or done in +a slipshod manner. + +Her taste and judgment were accurate and sound in literature and art; +her love of art led her to exclaim regretfully, "When we are dead and +gone, the landscape will bristle with easels." + +A scant population and the exigencies of the conditions placed art +expression in the far future, yet she saw the vast possibilities before +those who should be so fortunate as to dwell in the midst of such native +grandeur, beauty and richness of color. + +Like many other children, we had numerous pets, wild things from the +forest or the, to us, charming juvenile members of the barnyard flocks. +When any of these succumbed to the inevitable, a funeral of more or less +pomp was in order, and many a hapless victim of untoward fate was thus +tearfully consigned to the bosom of Mother Earth. On one occasion, at +the obsequies of a beloved bird or kitten, I forget which, Madge, then +perhaps six years of age, insisted upon arranging a litter, draped with +white muslin and decorated with flowers, and followed it, as it was +borne by two other children, singing with serious though tearless eyes, + + "We're traveling to the grave + To lay this body down, + And the last word that I heard him speak + Was about Jerusalem," etc. + +She was so thoroughly in earnest that the older children refrained from +laughing at what some might have thought unnecessary solemnity. + +Madge had her share of adventures, too; one dark night she came near +drowning in Lake Washington. Having visited the Newcastle coal mines +with a small party of friends and returned to the lake shore, they were +on the wharf ready to go on board the steamer. In some manner, perhaps +from inadequate lighting, she stepped backward and fell into the water +some distance below. The water was perhaps forty feet deep, the mud +unknown. Several men called for "A rope! A rope!" but not a rope could +they lay their hands on. After what seemed an age to her, a lantern +flashed into the darkness and a long pole held by seven men was held +down to her; she grasped it firmly and, as she afterward said, felt as +if she could climb to the moon with its assistance--and was safely drawn +up, taken to a miner's cottage, where a kind-hearted woman dressed her +in dry clothing. She reached home none the worse for her narrow escape. + +Her nerves were nerves of steel; she seldom exhibited a shadow of fear +and seemed of a spirit to undertake any daring feat. To dare the +darkness, climb declivities, explore recesses, seemed pleasures to her +courageous nature. At Snoqualmie Falls, in the Archipelago de Haro, in +the Jupiter Hills of the Olympic Range, she climbed up and down the +steep gorges with the agility of the chamois or our own mountain goat. +The forest, the mountain, the seashore yielded their charm to her, each +gave their messages. In a collection which she culled from many sources, +ranging from sparkling gayety to profound seriousness, occur these +words: + + "I saw the long line of the vacant shore + The sea-weed and the shells upon the sand + And the brown rocks left bare on every hand + As if the ebbing tide would flow no more. + Then heard I more distinctly than before, + The ocean breathe and its great breast expand, + And hurrying came on the defenseless land, + The insurgent waters with tumultuous roar; + All thought and feeling and desire, I said + Love, laughter, and the exultant joy of song + Have ebbed from me forever! Suddenly o'er me + They swept again from their deep ocean bed, + And in a tumult of delight and strong + As youth, and beautiful as youth, upbore me." + +It must have been that "Bird and bee and blossom taught her Love's spell +to know," and then she went away to the "land where Love itself had +birth." + + + + +CHAPTER Vb. + +LIKE A FOREST FLOWER. + +ANNA LOUISA DENNY. + + +Anna was the fourth daughter of D. T. and Louisa Boren Denny. In infancy +she showed a marked talent for music, signifying by her eyes, head and +hands her approval of certain tunes, preferring them to all others. +Before she was able to frame words she could sing tunes. When a young +girl her memory for musical tones was marvelous, enabling her to +reproduce difficult strains while yet unable to read the notes. +Possessed of a pure, high, flexible soprano voice, her singing was a +delight to her friends. Upon hearing famous singers render favorite +airs, her pleasure shone from every feature, although her comments were +few. On the long summer camping expeditions of the family, the music +books went along with her brothers' cornets, possibly her own flute, and +many a happy hour was spent as we drove leisurely along past the tall, +dark evergreens, or floated on the silvery waters of the Sound, with +perhaps a book of duets open before us, singing sweet songs of bird, +blossom and pine tree. + +While the other daughters were small and delicately formed, Anna grew up +to be a tall, statuesque woman of a truly noble appearance, with a fair +face, a high white forehead crowned by masses of brown hair, and a +countenance mirthful, sunny, serious, but seldom stern. + +A certain draped marble statue in the Metropolitan Museum in New York +bears a striking resemblance to Anna, but is not of so noble a type. + +Childhood in the wild Northwest braved many dangers both seen and +unseen. + +While returning late one summer night through the deep forest to our +home after having attended a concert in which the children had taken +part, Anna, then a little girl of perhaps seven or eight years, had a +narrow escape from some wild beast, either a cougar or wildcat. Her +mother, who was leading her a little behind the others, said that +something grabbed at her and disappeared instantly in the thick +undergrowth; grasping her hand more firmly she started to run and the +little party, thoroughly frightened, fairly flew along the road toward +home. + +In this north country it is never really dark on a cloudless summer +night, but the heavy forests enshroud the roads and trails in a deep +twilight. + +Anna, like her sister Madge, was a daring rider and they often went +together on long trips through the forest. At one time each was mounted +on a lively Indian pony, both of which doubtless had seen strange things +and enjoyed many exciting experiences, but were supposed to be quite +lamblike and docile. Some reminiscence must have crossed their equine +minds, and they apparently challenged each other to a race, so race they +must and race they did at a lightning speed on the home run. + +They came flying up the lane to the house (the homestead on Lake Union) +in a succession of leaps that would have made Pegasus envious had he +been "thar or tharabouts." Their riders stuck on like cockleburrs until +they reached the gate, when a sudden stop threw Anna to the ground, but +she escaped injury, the only damage being a wrecked riding habit. + +Anna made no pretension to great learning, yet possessed a well-balanced +and cultivated mind. With no ado of great effort she stood first in her +class. + +At a notable celebration of Decoration Day in Seattle, she was chosen to +walk beside the teacher at the head of the school procession; both were +tall, handsome young women, carrying the school banner bearing the +motto, "Right, then Onward." + +It was to this school, which bore his own name, that her father +presented a beautiful piano as a memorial of her; it bears the words, +from her own lips, "I believe in Jesus," in gold letters across the +front. + +In 1888 she accompanied her family across the continent to the eastern +coast, where she expected to be reunited with a friend, a young girl to +whom she was much attached, but it was otherwise ordered; after a brief +illness in New York City, she passed away and was brought back to her +own loved native land, by the sun-down-seas. Afar in a forest nook she +rests, where wildwood creatures pass by, the pine trees wave and the +stars sweep over, waiting, watching for the Day toward which the whole +creation moves. + + * * * * * + +They wandered through the wonderful forest, by lake, fern-embroidered +stream and pebble seashore, gazed on the glistening mountains, the +sparkling waves, the burning sunsets, shining with such jewel colors as +to make them think of the land of hope, the New Jerusalem. And the +majestic snow-dome of Mountain Rainier which at the first sight thereof +caused a noted man to leap up and shout aloud the joy that filled his +soul; they lived in sight of it for years. + + * * * * * + +It might be asked, "Does the environment affect the character and mental +development, even the physical configuration?" We answer, "Yes, we +believe it does." The fine physique, the bright intellectuality, the +lovely character of these daughters of the West were certainly in part +produced and developed by the wonderful world about them. Simple, pure, +exalted natures ought to be, and we believe are, the rule among the +children of the pioneers of Puget Sound and many of their successors. + + * * * * * + +In this time of gathering up portraits of fair women, I cannot help +reverting to the good old times on Puget Sound, when among the daughters +of the white settlers ugliness was the exception, the majority +possessing many points of beauty. Bright, dark eyes, brilliant +complexions, graceful forms, luxuriant hair and fine teeth were the +rule. The pure air, mild climate, simple habits and rational life were +amply proved producers of physical perfection. Old-timers will doubtless +remember the handsome Bonney girls, the Misses Chambers, the Misses +Thornton, Eva Andrews, Mary Collins, Nellie Burnett, Alice Mercer, the +Dennys, noticeable for clear white skin and brilliant color, with +abundant dark hair, Gertrude and Mary Boren with rosy cheeks and blue +eyes; Blanche Hinds, very fair, with large, gray eyes, and others I +cannot now name, as well as a number of beautiful matrons. Every +settlement had its favored fair. + +Perhaps because women were so scarce, they were petted and indulged and +came up with the idea that they were very fine porcelain indeed; they +were all given the opportunities in the reach of their parents and were +quite fastidious in their dress and belongings. + + * * * * * + +Of the other children of D. T. and Louisa Boren Denny, John B. is a well +educated and accomplished man of versatility, a lawyer, musician, and +practical miner. + +D. Thomas is an electrician; was a precocious young business man who +superintended the building of an electric street railway when under +twenty-five years of age. + +Victor W. S., a practical miner, assayer and mining expert, who has been +engaged in developing gold and silver mines. Abbie D., an artist and +writer, who has published numerous articles, a fine shot with the rifle +and an accomplished housewife; and E. I. Denny, the author of this work, +who is not now engaged in writing an autobiography. + +All, including the last mentioned, are fond of wild life, hunting, +camping and mountain climbing, in which they have had much experience +and yearly seek for more. + + + + +CHAPTER Vc. + +ONE OF THE COURAGEOUS YOUTHS. + + +William Richard Boren was one of the boy pioneers. He was born in +Seattle on the 4th of October, 1854. + +The children necessarily shared with their parents and guardians the +hardships, dangers, adventures and pleasures of the wild life of the +early days. + +When his father, Carson D. Boren, went to the gold diggings, William +came to the D. T. Denny cottage and remained there for some time. As +there was then no boy in the family (there were three little girls) he +stepped into usefulness almost immediately. To bring home the cows, weed +in the garden, carry flowers and vegetables to market, cut and carry +wood, the "chores" of a pioneer home he helped to do willingly and +cheerfully. + +Every pair of hands must help, and the children learned while very young +that they were to be industrious and useful. + +It required real fortitude to go on lonely trails or roads through the +dark, thick forest in the deepening twilight that was impenetrable +blackness in the wall of sombre evergreens on either hand. + +Some children seem to have little fear of anything, but it was +different with William; he was afraid; as he graphically described it, +he "_felt as if something would catch him in the back_." But he +steadfastly traveled the dark trails, showing a remarkable quality of +courage. + +His sensations cannot be attributed to constitutional timidity +altogether, as there were real dangers from wild beasts and savage men +in those days. + +He would often go long distances from the settlement through the great +forest as the shadows were darkening into night, listening breathlessly +for the welcome jingle of the bells of the herd, or anxiously to +snapping twigs and creaking of lodged trees or voices of night-birds. +But when the cattle were gathered up and he could hear the steady tinkle +of the leader's bell, although to the eye she was lost in the dusk in +the trail ahead, he felt safe. + +He calmly faced dangers, both seen and unseen, in after years. + +By the time he was twelve or fourteen he had learned to shoot very well +with the shotgun and could bring home a fine bunch of blue grouse or +"pheasants" (ruffed grouse). + +Late one May evening he came into the old kitchen, laden with charming +spoils from the forest, a large handful of the sweet favorite of the +pioneer children, the lady's slipper or Calypso Borealis, and a bag of +fat "hooters" for the stew or pie so much relished by the settlers. + +The majority of the pioneer boys were not expected to be particular as +to whether they did men's work or women's work, and William was a +notable example of versatility, lending a hand with helpless babies, +cooking or washing, the most patient and faithful of nurses, lifting +many a burden from the tired house-mother. + +He was a total abstainer from intoxicants and tobacco, and to the +amusement of his friends said he "could not see any sense in jumping +around the room," as he described the social dance. It surprised no one, +therefore, that he should grow up straight and vigorous, able to endure +many hardships. + +William was a very Nimrod by the time he reached his majority, a fine +shot with the rifle and successful in killing large game. As he came in +sight one day on the trail to our camp in the deep forest, he appeared +carrying the blackest and glossiest of bear cubs slung over one +shoulder. I called to him, "Halt, if you please, and let me sketch you +right there." He obligingly consented and in a few moments bear, gun and +hunter were transferred to paper. And a good theme it was; with a +background of dark firs and cedars, in a mass of brightest green ferns, +stood the stalwart figure, clad in vivid scarlet and black, gun on one +shoulder and bear cub on the other. + +William Boren was an active and useful member of the M. E. or "White +Church" in Seattle many years ago. This was the first church established +in Seattle. + +He removed from the settlement and lived on a ranch for a number of +years. + +For a time in youth he was in the mining district; while there he +imposed upon himself heavy burdens, packing as much as two hundred +pounds over the trail. + +This was probably overexertion; also in later years, heavy lifting in a +logging camp may have helped break his naturally strong constitution. + +Many muscular and vigorous persons do not realize the necessity for +caution in exertion. I have seen strong young men balancing their weight +against the "hold" of huge stumps, by hanging across a large pole in +mid-air. + +During his ranch life he was waylaid, basely and cruelly attacked and +beaten into insensibility by two ruffians. Most likely this caused the +fatal brain trouble from which he died in January, 1899, at the home of +his sister, Gertrude Boren, who through a long illness cared for him +with affectionate solicitude. + + * * * * * + + "O bearded, stalwart, westmost men, + A kingdom won without the guilt + Of studied battle; that hath been + Your blood's inheritance. + + * * * * * + + "Yea, Time, the grand old harvester, + Has gathered you from wood and plain. + We call to you again, again; + The rush and rumble of the car + Comes back in answer. Deep and wide + The wheels of progress have passed on; + The silent pioneer is gone." + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +ARTHUR A. DENNY. + +(Born June 20th, 1822, Died January 9th, 1889.) + + +A ponderous volume of biography could scarcely set forth the +journeyings, experiences, efforts, achievements and character of this +well-known pioneer of the Northwest Coast. He was one of the foremost of +the steadfast leaders of the pioneers. A long, useful and worthy life he +spent among men, the far-reaching influence of which cannot be +estimated. When he passed away both private citizens and public +officials honored him; those who had known him far back in his youth and +through the intervening years said of the eulogies pronounced upon his +life, "Well, it is all true, and much more might be said." + +A. A. Denny was a son of John Denny and brother of David Thomas Denny; +each of them exerted a great influence on the life and institutions of +the Northwest. + +From sketches published in the local papers I have made these +selections: + + "The Dennys are a very ancient family of England, Ireland and + Scotland. The present branch traces its ancestry from Ireland to + America through great-grandparents, David and Margaret Denny, + who settled in Berks County, Pennsylvania, previous to the + revolutionary war. There Robert Denny, the grandfather of A. A. + Denny was born in 1753. In early life he removed to Frederick + County, Virginia, where in 1778 he married Rachel Thomas; and + about 1790 removed to and settled in Mercer County, Kentucky. + + "There John Denny, father of the deceased, was born May 4, 1793, + and was married August 25, 1814, to Sarah Wilson, daughter of + Bassel and Ann (Scott) Wilson, who was born in the old town of + Bladensburg, near Washington City, February 3, 1797. Her parents + came to America in an early day. + + "Their paternal and maternal grandparents served in the + revolutionary war. The former belonged to Washington's command at + the time of Braddock's defeat. + + "John Denny was a soldier in the war of 1812, being in Col. + Richard M. Johnson's regiment of Kentucky volunteers. He was also + an ensign in Capt. McFee's company, and was with Gen. Harrison at + the battle of the Thames, when Proctor was defeated and the noted + Tecumseh killed. He was a member of the Illinois legislature in + 1840 and 1841, with Lincoln, Yates, Bates and others, who + afterwards became renowned in national affairs. In politics he + was first a Whig and afterward a Republican. For many years he + was a Justice of the Peace. He died July 28th, 1875, when 83 + years of age. His first wife died March 21st, 1841, when 44 years + of age. + + "About 1816 John Denny and his family removed to Washington + County, Indiana, and settled near Salem, where Arthur A. Denny + was born June 20th, 1822. One year later they removed to Putnam + County, six miles east from Greencastle, where they remained + twelve years, and from there went to Knox County, Illinois. Mr. + A. A. Denny has said of his boyhood: + + "'My early education began in the log schoolhouse so familiar to + the early settler in the West. The teachers were paid by + subscription, so much per pupil, and the schools rarely lasted + more than half the year, and often but three months. Among the + earliest of my recollections is of my father hewing out a farm in + the beech woods of Indiana, and I well remember that the first + school that I attended was two and a half miles from my home. + When I became older it was often necessary for me to attend to + home duties half of the day before going to school a mile + distant. By close application I was able to keep up with my + class. + + "'My opportunities to some extent improved as time advanced. I + spent my vacations with an older brother at carpenter and joiner + work to obtain the means to pay my expenses during term time.'" + +A. A. Denny was married November 23, 1843, to Mary Ann Boren, to whom +he has paid a graceful and well-deserved tribute in these words: + + "She has been kind and indulgent to all my faults, and in cases + of doubt and difficulty in the long voyage we have made together + she has always been, without the least disposition to dictate, a + safe and prudent adviser." + +He held many public offices, each and all of which he filled with +scrupulous care, from county supervisor in Illinois in 1843 to first +postmaster of Seattle in 1853. He was elected to the legislature of +Washington Territory, serving for nine consecutive sessions, being the +speaker of the third; was registrar of the U. S. Land Office at Olympia +from 1861 to 1865. He was a member of the Thirty-ninth Congress, being a +delegate from Washington Territory. Even in his age he was given the +unanimous vote of the Republicans for U. S. Senator from the State of +Washington. + +His business enterprises date from the founding of the City of Seattle +and are interwoven with its history. + +He was a volunteer in the war against the Indians and had some stirring +experiences. In his book, "Pioneer Days on Puget Sound," he gives a very +clear and accurate account of the beginning of the trouble with the +Indians and many facts concerning the war following. + +He found, as many others did, good and true friends, as well as +enemies, among the Indians. On page 68 of the work mentioned may be +found these words: "I will say further, that my acquaintance and +experience with the Puget Sound Indians proved them to be sincere in +their friendship, and no more unfaithful and treasonable than the +average white man, and I am disposed to believe that the same might be +truthfully said of many other Indians." + +With regard to the dissatisfied tenderfoot he says: "All old settlers +know that it is a common occurrence for parties who have reached here by +the easy method of steamer or railway in a palace car to be most blindly +unreasonable in their fault-finding, and they are often not content with +abusing the country and climate, but they heap curses and abuse on those +who came before them by the good old method of ninety or a hundred days +crossing the plains, just as though we had sent for them and thus given +them an undoubted right to abuse us for their lack of good strong sense. +Then we all know, too, that it as been a common occurrence for those +same fault-finders to leave, declaring that the country was not fit for +civilized people to live in; and not by any means unusual for the same +parties to return after a short time ready to settle down and commence +praising the country, as though they wanted to make amends for their +unreasonable behavior in the first instance." + +There are a good many other pithy remarks in this book, forcible for +their truth and simplicity. + +As the stories of adventure have an imperishable fascination, I give his +own account of the discovery of Shilshole or Salmon Bay: + + "When we selected our claims we had fears that the range for our + stock would not afford them sufficient feed in the winter, and it + was not possible to provide feed for them, which caused us a + great deal of anxiety. From statements made by the Indians, which + we could then but imperfectly understand, we were led to believe + that there was prairie or grass lands to the northwest, where we + might find feed in case of necessity, but we were too busy to + explore until in December, 1852, when Bell, my brother, D. T. + Denny, and myself determined to look for the prairie. It was slow + and laborious traveling through the unbroken forest, and before + we had gone far Bell gave out and returned home, leaving us to + proceed alone. In the afternoon we unexpectedly came to a body of + water, and at first thought we had inclined too far eastward and + struck the lake, but on examination we found it to be tidewater. + From our point of observation we could not see the outlet to the + Sound, and our anxiety to learn more about it caused us to spend + so much time that when we turned homeward it soon became so dark + that we were compelled to camp for the night without dinner, + supper or blankets, and we came near being without fire also, as + it had rained on us nearly all day and wet our matches so that we + could only get fire by the flash of a rifle, which was + exceedingly difficult under the circumstances." + +D. T. Denny remembers that A. A. Denny pulled some of the cotton wadding +out of his coat and then dug into a dead fir tree that was dry inside +and put it in with what other dry stuff they could find, which was very +little, and D. T. Denny fired off his gun into it with the muzzle so +close as to set fire to it. + +He also relates that he shot a pheasant and broiled it before the fire, +dividing it in halves. + +A. A. Denny further says: + + "Our camp was about midway between the mouth of the bay and the + cove, and in the morning we made our way to the cove and took the + beach for home. Of course, our failing to return at night caused + great anxiety at home, and soon after we got on the beach we met + Bell coming on hunt of us, and the thing of most interest to us + just then was he had his pockets filled with hard bread. + + "This was our first knowledge of Shilshole Bay, which, we soon + after fully explored, and were ready to point newcomers in that + direction for locations." + +Old Salmon Bay Curley had told them there was grass in that region, +which was true they afterward learned, but not prairie grass, it was +salt marsh, in sufficient quantity to sustain the cattle. + +Speaking of the Indians, he tells how they settled around the cabins of +the whites at Alki until there were perhaps a thousand, and relates this +incident: "On one occasion during the winter, Nelson (Chief Pialse) came +with a party of Green River and Muckilshoot Indians, and got into an +altercation with John Kanem and the Snoqualmies. They met and the +opposing forces, amounting to thirty or forty on a side, drew up +directly in front of Low's house, armed with Hudson Bay muskets, the two +parties near enough together to have powder-burnt each other, and were +apparently in the act of opening fire, when we interposed and restored +peace without bloodshed, by my taking John Kanem away and keeping them +apart until Nelson and his party left." + +His daughter, Lenora Denny, related the same incident to me. She +witnessed it as a little child and remembers it perfectly, together with +her fright at the preparations for battle, and added that Kanem desired +her father at their conference behind the cabin just to let him go +around behind the enemy's line of battle and stab their chief; nobody +would know who did it and that would be sufficient in lieu of the +proposed fight. Mr. Denny dissuaded him and the "war" terminated as +above stated. + +In the fall of 1855, the Indians exhibited more and more hostility +toward the whites, and narrow escapes were not uncommon before the war +fairly broke out. + +About this time as A. A. Denny was making a canoe voyage from Olympia +down the Sound he met with a thrilling experience. + +When he and his two Indian canoemen were opposite a camp of savages on +the beach, they were hailed by the latter with: + +"Who is it you have in the canoe and where are you going?" spoken in +their native tongue. After calling back and forth for some little time, +two of them put out hastily in a canoe to overtake the travelers, +keeping up an earnest and excited argument with one of Mr. Denny's +Indians, both of whom he observed never ceased paddling. One of the +strangers was dressed up in war-paint and had a gun across his lap; he +kept up the angry debate with one of the travelers while the other was +perfectly silent. + +Finally the pursuers were near enough so that one reached out to catch +hold of the canoe when Denny's men paddled quickly out of reach and +increased their speed to a furious rate, continuing to paddle with all +their might until a long distance from their threatening visitors. +Although Mr. Denny did not understand their speech, their voices and +gestures were not difficult to interpret; he felt they wished to kill +him and thought himself lost. + +He afterward learned that his canoeman, who had answered the attacking +party, had saved his life by his courage and cunning. The savages from +the camp had demanded that Mr. Denny be given up to them that they might +kill him in revenge for the killing of some Indians, saying he was a +"hyas tyee" (great man) and a most suitable subject for their +satisfaction. + +He had answered that Mr. Denny was not near so high up nor as great as +some others and was always a good friend of the Indians and then carried +him to a place of safety by fast and furious paddling. The one who was +silent during the colloquy declared afterward that he said nothing for +fear they would kill him too. + +This exhibition of faithfulness on the part of Indian hirelings is +worthy of note in the face of many accusations of treachery on the part +of their race. + +It is my opinion that Arthur Armstrong Denny led an exemplary life and +that he ever desired to do justice to others. If he failed in doing so, +it was the fault of those with whom he was associated rather than his +own. + +A leading trait in his character was integrity, another was the modesty +that ever accompanies true greatness, noticeable also in his well known +younger brother, D. T. Denny; neither has been boastful, arrogant or +grasping for public honors. + +A. A. Denny fought the long battle of the pioneer faithfully and well +and sleeps in an honored grave. + + +MARY A. DENNY. + +Mary Ann Boren (Denny) was born in Tennessee, November 25th, 1822, the +first child of Richard Boren and Sarah Latimer Boren (afterward Denny). +Her grandfather Latimer, a kind hearted, sympathetic man, sent a bottle +of camphor to revive the pale young mother. This camphor bottle was kept +in the family, the children resorting to it for the palliation of cuts +and bruises throughout their adolescence, and it is now preserved by her +own family as a cherished relic, having seen eighty years and more since +its presentation. + +After the death of her father, leaving her mother a young widow with +three small children, they lived in Illinois as pioneers, where Mary +shared the toils, dangers and vicissitudes of frontier life. Was not +this the school for the greater pioneering of the farthest west? + +November 23rd, 1843, she married Arthur A. Denny, a man who both +recognized and acknowledged her worth. + +When she crossed the plains in 1851 with the Denny company, Mrs. Denny +was a young matron of twenty-nine years, with two little daughters. The +journey, arduous to any, was peculiarly trying to her with the helpless +ones to care for and make as comfortable as such tenting in the wilds +might be. + +At Fort Laramie her own feet were so uncomfortable in shoes that she +put on a pair of moccasins which David T. Denny had bought of an Indian +and worn for one day. Mrs. Denny wore them during the remainder of the +journey to Portland. + +One incident among many serves to show her unfaltering courage; an +Indian reached into her wagon to take the gun hung up inside: Mrs. Mary +A. Denny pluckily seized a hatchet and drew it to strike a vigorous blow +when the savage suddenly withdrew, doubtless with an increased respect +for white squaws in general and this one in particular. + +The great journey ended, at Portland her third child, Rolland H., was +born. If motherhood be a trial under the most favorable circumstances, +what must it have been on the long march? + +On the stormy and dangerous trip from Portland on the schooner Exact, +out over the bar and around Cape Flattery to the landing at Alki Point, +went the little band with this brave mother and her babe. + +On a drizzly day in November, the 13th, 1851, she climbed the bank at +Alki Point to the rude cabin, bare of everything now considered +necessary to begin housekeeping. They were imperfectly protected from +the elements and the eldest child, Catharine, or Kate as she was called, +yet remembers how the rain dropped on her face the first night they +slept in the unfinished cabin, giving her a decided prejudice against +camping out. + +The mother's health was poor and it became necessary to provide +nourishment for the infant; as there were no cows within reach, or +tinned substitutes, the experiment of feeding him on clam juice was made +with good effect. + +Louisa Boren Denny, her sister, then unmarried, relates the following +incident: + + "At Alki Point one day, I stood just within the door of the cabin + and Mary stood just inside; both of us saw an Indian bob up from + behind the bank and point his gun directly at my sister Mary and + almost immediately lower it without firing." + +Mary A. Denny, when asked recently what she thought might have been his +reason for doing so replied, "Well, I don't know, unless it was just to +show what he could do; it was Indian Jim; I suppose he did it to show +that he could shoot me if he wanted to." + +Probably he thought to frighten her at least, but with the customary +nerve of the pioneer woman, she exhibited no sign of fear and he went +his way. + +They afterward learned that on the same evening there had been some +trouble with the Indians at the Maple Place and it was thought that this +Indian was one of the disaffected or a sympathizer. + +Mrs. Mary A. Denny moved about from place to place, living first in the +cabin at Alki Point, then a cabin on Elliott Bay, on the north end of +their claim, then another cabin near the great laurel tree, on the site +of the Stevens Hotel, Seattle. After a time the family went to Olympia. +Her husband was in the Land Office, was a member of the Territorial +Legislature and Delegate to Congress; all the while she toiled on in her +home with her growing family. + +They returned to Seattle and built what was for those times a very good +residence on the corner of Pike Street and First Avenue, where they had +a fine orchard, and there they lived many years. + +After having struggled through long years of poverty, not extreme, to be +sure, but requiring much patient toil and endurance, their property +became immensely valuable and they enjoyed well deserved affluence. + +Mrs. Mary A. Denny's family consists of four sons and two daughters; +Orion O., the second son, was the second white child born in Seattle. +Catherine (Denny) Frye, the elder daughter, was happily married in her +girlhood and is the mother of a most interesting family. Rolland H., +Orion O., A. Wilson and Charles L. Denny, the four sons, are prominent +business men of Seattle. + +Mrs. Denny makes her home with Lenora, the younger unmarried daughter, +at her palatial residence in Seattle. The last mentioned is a traveled, +well read woman of most sympathetic nature, devoted to her friends, one +who has shown kindness to many strangers in times past as they were +guests in her parents' home. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +HENRY VAN ASSELT OF DUWAMISH. + + +In the Post-Intelligencer of December 8th and 9th, 1902, appeared the +following sketches of this well known pioneer: + + "At the ripe old age of 85, with the friendship and affection of + every man he knew in this life, Henry Van Asselt, one of the + founders of King County, and one of the four of the first white + men to set foot on the shores of Elliott Bay, died yesterday + morning at his home, on Fifteenth Avenue, of paralysis. Mr. Van + Asselt, with Samuel and Jacob Maple and L. M. Collins, landed in + a canoe September 14th, 1851, at the mouth of the Duwamish River, + where it enters the harbor of Seattle. They had come from the + Columbia River and were more than two months in advance of Arthur + Denny, one of the pioneer builders of the city of Seattle. Van + Asselt's name is perpetuated through the town of Van Asselt, + adjoining the southern limits of the city. He was well known all + over the Puget Sound country, and he was the last living member + of one of the first bands of white arrivals, on the shores of + Elliott Bay. + + "Mr. Van Asselt was a Hollander, having been born in Holland + April 11, 1817, two years after the battle of Waterloo. He was in + his early youth a soldier in the Holland army during its dispute + with Belgium. An expert marksman and an indefatigable huntsman, + he came to America in 1850, on a sailing schooner, and a year + later was traveling the trail from the Central West to + California. Instead of going to the land of gold and sunshine, + Van Asselt headed north, reaching the Columbia River in the fall + of 1850. A year later found him crossing the Columbia River, + after a short sojourn in the mining camps of Northern California. + With three companions, L. M. Collins, Jacob and Samuel Maple, + Henry Van Asselt made the perilous journey from the Columbia + River to the Sound, where, near Olympia, he boarded a canoe, and + after two days' traveling reached the mouth of the Duwamish + River. Ascending the stream to the junction of the White and + Black Rivers, a distance of only a few miles, he staked out a + donation land claim of 320 acres in the heart of the richest + section of the Duwamish valley." + + +SAID VALUES INCREASED. + + "The sturdy Hollander cleared the valley of its primeval forest + of firs, and made it truly blossom with farm products of every + description. The land today (1902) is worth $1,000 an acre and + upwards. At his death, the aged pioneer, the last of his + generation, had in his own name some 100 odd acres of this land. + Not many weeks ago he had sold twenty-four acres of the old + homestead as the site of the new rolling mill and foundry to be + constructed by the Vulcan Iron Works. + + "Mr. Van Asselt was not the least interesting, by any means, of + the old pioneers of King County. In fact, until his death he was + the last living member of the first group of white men to set + foot on the shores of Elliott Bay. He was a very devout man, and + in the late years of his life, when he had retired from active + business, it was his custom to spend part of every Sunday at the + county jail, reading to the prisoners excerpts from holy writ and + giving them words of hopefulness and cheer. This duty was + performed for many years as regularly as was his attendance at + the Methodist Protestant church, in this city, of which he had + been for thirty years a member. It is to be said of the dead + pioneer that he was universally loved and respected, and it was + his proudest boast that he had never made an enemy in his life. + This was literally true. + + "Crossing the plains in 1850, young Van Asselt was of great + assistance to his party in procuring game and in driving the + hostile Indians away, because of his superior marksmanship, which + he had acquired as a hunter on the estates of wealthy residents + of his native country. He landed at Oregon City, Ore., in + September, 1850, and the ensuing winter he spent in mining in + California. He accumulated a considerable sum, and, lured by + stories of the richness and vastness of the great Northwest, he + returned to Portland in 1851, and, crossing the Columbia, made + his way to the Sound country. On this trip he was accidentally + wounded, the bullet being imbedded in his shoulder. In the days + of the Indian troubles on the Sound, Van Asselt was safe from the + attacks of the hostiles, who held him in superstitious reverence + because of the fact that he carried a bullet in his body. They + believed that he could not be killed by a tomahawk. This fact, + perhaps, had much to do with his escape from assassination at the + hands of the hostiles in the Indian war of 1855. + + "Jacob and Samuel Maple, who with L. M. Collins accompanied Mr. + Van Asselt to Puget Sound, have been dead many years. Arthur A. + Denny has been gathered to his fathers, along with many others of + the old pioneers of King County and Washington. Van Asselt is the + last of that hardy race that opened the wilderness on Puget Sound + and made it blossom like the rose. + + "The news of the death of Van Asselt was received as a sad blow + among the people of Van Asselt, where the aged pioneer spent the + greater portion of his days in the house which still stands as a + monument to his rugged pioneer days. In Van Asselt the people + speak the name of the pioneer with reverence on account of the + many charities he extended to the poor during his lifetime, and + also on account of the many acts which he did in pioneer days to + save and maintain the peaceful relations with the savages. + + "The marriage of Mr. and Mrs. Van Asselt was celebrated in this + county, on Christmas evening 1862. All of those present at the + wedding have now passed away with a few exceptions. + + "Mr. Van Asselt leaves a wife, Mrs. Mary Jane Maple Van Asselt; a + son, Dr. J. H. Van Asselt; two daughters, Mrs. J. H. Benadom, of + Puyallup, and Dr. Nettie Van Asselt Burling, and a grandson, + Floyd Julian, son of Mrs. Mary Adriane Van Asselt Julian, who + died in 1893. Mr. Van Asselt also leaves a brother, Rev. Garrett + Van Asselt, of Utrecht, Holland, and several sisters in Holland. + + "The following were selected as active pallbearers: William P. + Harper, Dexter Horton, D. B. Ward, O. J. Carr, Isaac Parker, M. + R. Maddocks. The honorary pallbearers were: Edgar Bryan, Rev. + Daniel Bagley, F. M. Guye, Joseph Foster, William Carkeek, Judge + Orange Jacobs. + + "As illustrative of the regard and esteem in which this pioneer + was held by those who knew him best, Dexter Horton, the well + known banker and capitalist, who met Mr. Van Asselt in 1852, said + last night: + + "'Mr. Van Asselt was a man of sterling character. His word was as + good as a government bond. I knew him almost from the beginning + of his life here. He was one of the kindliest men I ever met. + + "'For fifteen years after I came to Seattle I conducted a general + merchandise store here. There were mighty few of us here in those + early times and we were all intimately acquainted. I dare say + that when a newcomer had resided on the Sound, anywhere from + Olympia to the Strait of Fuca, for thirty days, I became + acquainted with him. They dropped in here to trade, traveling in + Indian canoes. There never was a man of them that I did not trust + to any reasonable extent for goods, and my losses on that account + in fifteen years' dealing with the early settlers were less than + $1,000. This is sufficient testimony as to the character and + integrity of the men who, like Van Asselt, faced the privations + and dangers of the Western Trail to find homes for themselves on + the Pacific Coast. + + "'Mr. Van Asselt located on a level farm in the Duwamish valley + on his arrival here. He was a man of great energy and thrift, and + soon had good and paying crops growing. He used to bring his + produce to Seattle, either by Indian canoe, or afterwards, when a + trail was cut under the brow of the hill, by teams. This produce + was readily disposed of, as we had a large number of men working + in the mills and few to supply their necessities. + + "'I remember that after he had lived here for several years he + moved to town and established a cabinet maker's shop. He was an + expert in that line of work. I have an ancient curly maple bureau + which he made for me, and Mrs. A. A. Denny has another. They are + beautifully fashioned, Van Asselt being well skilled in the + trade. Doubtless others among the old-timers here have mementos + of his handicraft. + + "'Van Asselt was of the type of men who blazed the path for + generations that followed them to the Pacific Coast. His + integrity was unchallenged, and his charities were numerous and + unostentatious. He used to give every worthy newcomer work on his + ranch, and many an emigrant in those days got his first start + from Henry Van Asselt.' + + "Samuel Crawford knew Mr. Van Asselt intimately since 1876. He + said last night: + + "'Henry Van Asselt, or Uncle Henry, as we all called him, spent + the winter of 1850-1851 with my great-great-grandfather, Robert + Moore, at Oregon City, Ore., or more properly speaking, on the + west shore of the Willamette, just across from Oregon City. Mr. + Van Asselt told me this himself. Moore kept a large place, which + was a sort of rendezvous for the immigrants, and many a man found + shelter at his ranch. He gave them work enough to keep them + going, and Van Asselt found employment with him that winter, + making shingles from cedar bolts with a draw knife. + + "'Mr. Van Asselt was one of the best men that ever lived. His + word was as good as gold, and he never overlooked a chance to do + a friend a favor. While he spoke English with difficulty, on + occasion he could make a good speech, and he always took a deep + interest in public affairs. There was probably no important + public question involving the interests of Seattle and the Puget + Sound country but that Mr. Van Asselt had his say. He did not + care for public office, however, but preferred to go along in his + quiet way, doing all the good that was possible. He firmly + believed in the future of Seattle, which he loved dearly, and I + remember many years ago of his purchase of two blocks of ground + on Renton Hill, in the vicinity of the residence where he passed + the last years of his life. This was nearly twenty years ago.' + + "Thomas W. Prosch had known Mr. Van Asselt for many years. He, + too, paid a tribute to his fine character, and rugged honesty. + 'Six years ago,' said Mr. Prosch, 'I went to talk with Mr. Van + Asselt regarding his early experiences on the Sound. He told me + of his long and arduous trip across the plains in 1850, and of + his escapades with the Indians then and afterward. He said + himself that he believed he led a charmed life, as the Indians + took many a shot at him, but without avail. He was a dead shot + himself, and the Indians had great respect for his skill. He was + a very determined man, and undoubtedly had a great influence over + the savages. + + "'Mr. Van Asselt told me that he met Hill Harmon, a well known + Oregon settler, in the spring of 1851, and together they crossed + the Columbia and came to Olympia. From there they went with two + or three others to Nesqually, where they met Luther M. Collins, + one of the first settlers in King County. Collins endeavored to + persuade them to locate near him, but they wanted a better place. + Finally Collins brought them to the Duwamish valley and located + them here. One of the party bought Collins' place at Nesqually, + and he came here to locate with Van Asselt and the others. + Collins' family was the first white family to establish a home in + King County.'" + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +THOMAS MERCER. + + +Thomas Mercer was born in Harrison county, Ohio, March 11, 1813, the +eldest of a large family of children. He remained with his father until +he was twenty-one, gaining a common school education and a thorough +knowledge of the manufacture of woolen goods. His father was the owner +of a well appointed woolen mill. The father, Aaron Mercer, was born in +Virginia and was of the same family as General Mercer of revolutionary +fame. His mother, Jane Dickerson Mercer, was born in Pennsylvania of an +old family of that state. + +The family moved to Princeton, Ill., in 1834, a period when buffalo were +still occasionally found east of the Mississippi river, and savage +Indians annoyed and harassed outlying settlements in that region. A +remarkable coincidence is a matter of family tradition. Nancy Brigham, +who later became Mr. Mercer's wife, and her family, were compelled to +flee by night from their home near Dixon at the time of the Black Hawk +war, and narrowly escaped massacre. In 1856, about twenty years later, +her daughters, the youngest only eight years old, also made a midnight +escape in Seattle, two thousand miles away from the scene of their +mother's adventure, and they endured the terrors of the attack upon the +village a few days later when the shots and shouts of the thousand +painted devils rang out in the forest on the hillside from a point near +the present gas works to another near where Madison street ends at First +Avenue. + + +CROSSING THE PLAINS. + +In April, 1852, a train of about twenty wagons, drawn by horses, was +organized at Princeton to cross the plains to Oregon. In this train were +Thomas Mercer, Aaron Mercer, Dexter Horton, Daniel Bagley, William H. +Shoudy, and their families. Some of these still live in or near Seattle +and others settled in Oregon. Mr. Mercer was chosen captain of the train +and discharged the arduous duties of that position fearlessly and +successfully. Danger and disease were on both sides of the long, dreary +way, and hundreds of new made graves were often counted along the +roadside in a day. But this train seemed to bear a charmed existence. +Not a member of the original party died on the way, although many were +seriously ill. Only one animal was lost. + +As the journey was fairly at an end and western civilization had been +reached at The Dalles, Oregon, Mrs. Mercer was taken ill, but managed to +keep up until the Cascades were reached. There she grew rapidly worse +and soon died. Several members of the expedition went to Salem and +wintered there, and in the early spring of 1853 Mercer and Dexter Horton +came to Seattle and decided to make it their home. Mr. Horton entered +immediately upon a business career, the success of which is known in +California, Oregon and Washington, and Mr. Mercer settled upon a +donation claim whose eastern end was the meander line of Lake Union and +the western end, half way across to the bay. Mercer street is the +dividing line between his and D. T. Denny's claims, and all of these +tracts were included within the city limits about fifteen years ago. + +Mr. Mercer brought one span of horses and a wagon from the outfit with +which he crossed the plains and for some time all the hauling of wood +and merchandise was done by him. The wagon was the first one in King +county. In 1859 he went to Oregon for the summer and while there married +Hester L. Ward, who lived with him nearly forty years, dying last +November. During the twenty years succeeding his settlement here he +worked hard clearing the farm and carrying on dairying and farming in a +small way and doing much work with his team. In 1873 portions of the +farm came into demand for homes and his sales soon put him in easy +circumstances and in later years made him independent, though the past +few years of hard times have left but a small part of the estate. + +The old home on the farm that the Indians spared when other buildings +in the county not protected by soldiers were burned, is still standing +and is the oldest building in the county. Mr. D. T. Denny had a log +cabin on his place which was not destroyed--these two alone escaped. The +Indians were asked, after the war, why they did not burn Mercer's house, +to which they replied, "Oh, old Mercer might want it again." Denny and +Mercer had always been particularly kind to the natives and just in +their dealings, and the savages seem to have felt some little gratitude +toward them. + +In the early '40s Mr. Mercer and Rev. Daniel Bagley were co-workers in +the anti-slavery cause with Owen Lovejoy, of Princeton, who was known to +all men of that period in the great Middle West. Later Mr. Mercer joined +the Republican party and has been an ardent supporter of its men and +measures down to the present. He served ten years as probate judge of +King county, and at the end of that period declined a renomination. + +In early life he joined the Methodist Protestant church and has ever +been a consistent member of that body. Rev. Daniel Bagley was his pastor +fifty-two years ago at Princeton, and continued to hold that relation to +him in Seattle from 1860 until 1885, when he resigned his Seattle +pastorate. + +To Mr. Mercer belongs the honor of naming the lakes adjacent to and +almost surrounding the city. At a social gathering or picnic in 1855 he +made a short address and proposed the adoption of "Union" for the small +lake between the bay and the large lake, and "Washington" for the other +body of water. This proposition was received with favor and at once +adopted. In the early days of the county and city he was always active +in all public enterprises, ready alike with individual effort and with +his purse, according to his ability, and no one of the city's thousands +has taken a keener interest or greater pride than he in the recent +development of the city's greatness, although he could no longer share +actively in its accomplishment. He was exceedingly anxious to see the +canal completed between salt water and the lakes. + +His oldest daughter, Mrs. Henry Parsons, lives near Olympia, and is a +confirmed invalid. The second daughter was the first wife of Walter +Graham, of this place, but died in 1862. The next younger daughters, +Mrs. David Graham and Mrs. C. B. Bagley, lived near him and cared for +him entirely since the death of Mrs. Mercer last November. In all the +collateral branches the aged patriarch leaves behind him here in King +county fully half a hundred of relatives of greater or lesser degrees of +kinship. + +His generosity and benevolence have ever been proverbial. The churches, +Y. M. C. A., orphanages and other objects of public benevolence and +private charity have good cause to remember his liberality. In a period +of five years he gave away at least $20,000 in public and private +donations. + +Judge Mercer was a charter member of the Pioneers' Association, and took +great interest in its affairs. He always made a special effort to attend +the annual meeting, until the last two years, when his health would not +permit. + +Another of the band of hardy pioneers who laid the foundation of the +great commonwealth bounded by California on the south, British Columbia +on the north, the Rocky Mountains on the east and the illimitable +Pacific toward the setting sun, has gone to rest. + + "Judge Thomas Mercer died yesterday morning, May 25th, at 5:15 + o'clock, after a brief illness, at his home in North Seattle, + within a stone's throw of the old homestead where he and his four + motherless daughters, all mere children, settled in the somber + and unbroken forest two score and five years ago, when the + Seattle of today consisted of a sawmill, a trading post and less + than a half hundred white people."--(From Post-Intelligencer of + May 26th, 1898.) + +For many years we looked across the valley to see the smoke from the +fire on the Mercer hearthstone winding skyward, for they were our only +neighbors. Even for this, we were not so solitary, nor quite so lonely +as we must have been with no human habitation in our view. And then we +felt the kindly presence, sympathy we knew we could always claim, the +cheerful greetings and friendly visits. + +When his aged pastor, Rev. Daniel Bagley, with snowy locks, stood above +his bier and a troop of silver-haired pioneers in tearful silence +harkened, he told of fifty years of friendship; how they crossed the +plains together, and of the quiet, steady, Christian life of Thomas +Mercer. + +He said, "Whatever other reasons may have been given, that he understood +some Indians to say the reason they did not burn Mercer's house during +the war, was that Mercer was 'klosh tum-tum,' (kind, friendly, literally +a good heart), and 'he wawa-ed Sahale Tyee' (prayed to the Heavenly +Chief or Great Spirit). Thus did he let his light shine; even the +savages beheld it." + +In closing a touching, suggestive and affectionate tribute, he quoted +these lines: + + "O what hath Jesus bought for me! + Before my ravish'd eyes + Rivers of life divine I see, + And trees of Paradise; + I see a world of spirits bright, + Who taste the pleasures there; + They all are robed in spotless white, + And conqu'ring palms they bear." + + +HESTER L. MERCER. + +When a child I often visited this good pioneer woman--so faithful, +cheerful, kind, self-forgetful. + +With busy hands she toiled from morning to night, scarcely sitting down +without some house-wifely task to occupy her while she chatted. + +Of a very lively disposition, her laugh was frequent and merry. + +A more generous, frank and warm-hearted nature was hard to find, the +demands made upon it were many and such as to exhaust a shallow one. Her +experiences were varied and thrilling, as the following account from the +Seattle Post-Intelligencer of November 13th, 1897, will show: + + "There is something in the life of this pioneer woman that makes + a lasting impression upon the minds of those who consider it. + Mrs. Mercer's general life differed somewhat from the lives of + many pioneer women in that she was always a pioneer. Many had + given up an existence in the thickly settled portions of the east + to accept the burdensome, half-civilized life of the west. They + had at least once known the joys of civilization. It was not so + with Mrs. Mercer. She was a pioneer from the time she was ushered + into the world. + + "She was born in Kentucky. Go back 75 years in the life of that + state and you will get something of its early history. Those who + lived there that long ago were pioneers. Her father and mother + were Jesse and Elizabeth Ward. They were of that staunch, sturdy + people that struggled to obtain a home and accumulate a little + fortune in the southern country. Jesse Ward at the age of 18 + joined a regiment of Kentucky volunteers which was a part of + Jackson's army at the defense of New Orleans in 1814. + + "Mrs. Mercer was born in Hartford, the county seat of Ohio + county, Kentucky. She was but a little tot when her mother died. + + "Her father married again, and children, issues of the second + marriage, had been born before Mr. Ward and his family said + good-bye to old Kentucky or in reality, young Kentucky, and moved + to Arkansas. That was in 1845. There they lived until 1853 and + Hester Mercer had a chance of proving her true womanhood. The + family had settled near Batesville, Independence county. At that + time the county had much virgin soil and it was not a hard matter + to figure up the population of the state. Mrs. Mercer seemed to + be the head of the family. While the male members of the family + were at work clearing land and establishing what they thought + would be a permanent home, she was busily occupied in making + clothes for herself and others of the family. And what a task it + was in those days to make clothes. Crude machinery, in the + settled states of the east, turned out with what was considered + wonderful rapidity, cloth for garments. But the common people of + the West knew nothing of the details of such luxuries. + +[Illustration: ERYTHRONIUM OF LAKE UNION] + + "Mrs. Mercer, then Hester Ward, took the wool from the sheep, + cleaned it, wove it, dyed the cloth, cut and made it into + clothing for her father and brothers. When she wanted a gown she + could have it, that is, after she had gone into the fields, + picked the necessary cotton, developed it into dress goods and + turned the goods into a garment. + + "Mr. D. B. Ward, a half brother of Mrs. Mercer, has in his + possession pieces of the goods out of which she made her gowns + when a girl. + + "In 1853, Mr. Ward, having heard so much of the great + opportunities that were offered to the pioneer who would accept + life in the far West, started with his family and a party of + other pioneers across the great Western plains. Stories without + end could be told of the adventures and incidents, the results of + that long journey. There were nine children of Mr. Ward in his + party. The start was made March 9, 1853, and on September 30, + Waldo Hills, near Salem, Oregon, was reached. + + "The Indians, of course, figured in the life of the Wards while + they were crossing the plains, just as they seemed to come into + the life of every other band of pioneers that undertook the + journey. When about eight miles, by the emigrant route, east of + the North Platte, Mr. Ward's party encountered a big band of + Arapahoes. Every one was a warrior. They were in full war regalia + and dangling from their belts were dozens of scalps. They had + been in battle with their enemies, the Blackfeet and Snake River + Indians the day before. Crowned with victory, they were on their + way home to celebrate. + + "The Ward party had been resting in the woods and were about + breaking camp to continue their journey when the Indian braves + made their appearance. They insisted that they were friendly, but + their behavior was not wholly consistent. They crowded in and + about the wagons, wanted this and that and finally became + impudent because their requests were denied. + + "The Ward party had an old bugler with them; when he placed his + lips to the bugle something that bordered on music came from the + instrument. While the Indians were making their presence known + the old bugler grabbed up his bugle and let out several blasts, + which echoed and re-echoed around. The leaves trembled, the trees + seemed to shake and the Indian braves, who did not fear an + encounter with a thousand Blackfeet, were dumbfounded. Their + heads went up in the air, the ears of their horses shot forward. + The leader of the braves murmured a few words in his native + tongue and then like the wind those 400 braves were gone. If the + Great White Father had appeared, as they probably expected he + would, he would have had to travel many miles to find the + Arapahoes. + + "The Ward party was soon out of the woods, when they met another + band. The old chief was with them. He was mounted on a white + mule and produced a copy of a treaty with the government to show + that his people loved the white men. + + "Down in the valley through which the pioneers were compelled to + travel they saw many little tents. Other Indians were camped + there. The old chief and his party accompanied the emigrants. + Every Indian showed an ugly disposition. The emigrants were + compelled to stop in the midst of the tents in the valley. The + old chief explained through an interpreter that his people had + just come back from a great battle. They were hungry, he said, + and wanted food and the emigrants would have to give it to them, + for were not these whites, he said, passing through the sacred + land of the Indian? + + "The Ward party was a small one, it could muster but 22 men. Each + man was well armed, but the Indians were mixing up with them and + it would have been impossible to get together for united action. + It was necessary to submit to the wishes of the Indians. Bacon, + sugar, flour and crackers were given up and the old chief divided + them among his people. + + "While this division was being made young braves were busying + themselves by annoying the members of the party. Among the white + people was a young woman who had charge of two horses attached to + a light covered wagon. Several of the braves took a fancy to her. + They gave the whites to understand that any woman who could drive + horses was all right and must not go any farther. Mr. Ward and + his men had a hard time keeping the Indians from stealing the + girl. Once they crowded about her and for a time it was thought + she would be taken by force. The white men and several of the + women went to her rescue. Mrs. Mercer was in the rescue party. + She shoved the Indians right and left and in the end the girl was + rescued and smuggled into a closed wagon, where she remained + concealed for some hours. + + "Another young woman in the party had beautiful auburn hair. An + Indian warrior took a fancy to her, thought she was the finest + woman he had ever seen, and said that his people would compromise + if she were given to him for a wife. Again there was trouble and + the girl had to be hidden in a closed wagon. + + "The Indians kept up their annoyance of the party for some time, + but finally their hunger got the better of them and they sat down + to eat the food which the Ward party had under compulsion given + them. + + "The Indian chief consented that the white people should take + their departure. They were quick to do so and were soon some + distance from the Indian camp. + + "After the Wards reached Oregon, Hester settled down to pioneer + life with the other members of the family, but in the fall of + 1859, Thomas Mercer, then probate judge of King county, + Washington Territory, wooed and won her and they were married. + The wedding was one of the important affairs of early days. Rev. + Daniel Bagley, of this city, performed the ceremony. After Mr. + and Mrs. Mercer came to Seattle they took up their residence in a + little house on First Avenue, near Washington Street. The Mercer + home at present occupies a block of the old donation claim. The + home is on Lombard Street between Prospect and Villard Avenues. + + "When Mr. and Mrs. Mercer came to Seattle, John Denny and wife + and James Campbell and wife accompanied them. The three families + swelled the population to thirteen families. + + "D. B. Ward, a half brother of Mrs. Mercer, also came with them. + + "'Seattle was not a very big city in those days,' said Mr. Ward + recently in discussing the matter. 'I remember that soon after my + arrival I thought I would take a walk up in the woods. I went to + the church, which stood where at present is the Boston National + Bank building. I found windows filled with little holes. It was a + great mystery to me. I went down town and made inquiry about it + and was told that every hole represented a bullet fired by the + Indians during the fight three years before.' + + "Mrs. Mercer was a woman of many grand qualities; she never + permitted any suffering to go on about her if she were in a + position to relieve it. She was a good friend of the poor and + did many kind acts of which the world knew but little." + +In the latter years of her life she was a patient, uncomplaining +invalid, and finally entered into rest on the 12th of November, 1897, +having lived in Seattle for thirty-nine years. She was buried with honor +and affection; the pallbearers were old pioneers averaging a forty +years' residence in the same place; D. T. Denny, the longest, being one +of the founders, for forty-five years; they were Dexter Horton, T. D. +Hinckley, D. T. Denny, Edgar Bryan, David Kellogg and Hans Nelson. + +Mr. Mercer, at the age of 84 (in 1897), still survives her, passing a +peaceful old age in the midst of relatives and friends. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +DR. HENRY A. SMITH, THE BRILLIANT WRITER. + + +This well known pioneer joined the "mighty nation moving west" in 1852. +From Portland, the wayside inn of weary travelers, he pushed on to Puget +Sound, settling in 1853 on Elliott Bay, at a place known for many years +as Smith's Cove. + +Being a gifted writer he has made numerous contributions to northwestern +literature, both in prose and poetry. + +In a rarely entertaining set of papers entitled "Early Reminiscences," +he brings vividly to the minds of his readers the "good old times" on +Elliott Bay, as he describes the manner of life, personal adventure, odd +characters and striking environment of the first decade of settlement. +In them he relates that after the White River massacre, he conveyed his +mother to a place of safety, by night, in a boat with muffled oars. + + To quote his own words: "Early the next morning I persuaded James + Broad and Charley Williamson, a couple of harum-scarum run-away + sailors, to accompany me to my ranch in the cove, where we + remained two weeks securing crops. We always kept our rifles near + us while working in the field, so as to be ready for + emergencies, and brave as they seemed their faces several times + blanched white as they sprang for their guns on hearing brush + crack near them, usually caused by deer. One morning on going to + the field where we were digging potatoes, we found fresh moccasin + tracks, and judged from the difference in the size of the tracks + that at least half a dozen savages had paid the field a visit + during the night. As nothing had been disturbed we concluded that + they were waiting in ambush for us and accordingly we retired to + the side of the field farthest from the woods and began work, + keeping a sharp lookout the while. Soon we heard a cracking in + the brush and a noise that sounded like the snapping of a + flintlock. We grabbed our rifles and rushed into the woods where + we heard the noise, so as to have the trees for shelter, and if + possible to draw a bead on the enemy. On reaching shelter, the + crackling sound receded toward Salmon Bay. But fearing a surprise + if we followed the sound of retreat, we concluded to reach the + Bay by way of a trail that led to it, but higher up; we reached + the water just in time to see five redskins land in a canoe, on + the opposite side of the Bay where the Crooks' barn now stands. + After that I had hard work to keep the runaways until the crop + was secured, and did so only by keeping one of them secreted in + the nearest brush constantly on guard. At night we barred the + doors and slept in the attic, hauling the ladder up after us. + Sometimes, when the boys told blood-curdling stories until they + became panicky by their own eloquence, we slept in the woods, but + that was not often. + + "In this way the crops were all saved, cellared and stacked, only + to be destroyed afterward by the torch of the common enemy. + + "Twice the house was fired before it was finally consumed, and + each time I happened to arrive in time to extinguish the flames, + the incendiaries evidently having taken to their heels as soon as + the torch was applied." + +While yet new to the country he met with an adventure not uncommon to +the earliest settlers in the great forest, recorded as follows: + +"I once had a little experience, but a very amusing one, of being +'lost.' In the summer of 1854, I concluded to make a trail to Seattle. +Up to that time I had ridden to the city in a 'Chinook buggy.' One +bright morning I took a compass and started for Seattle on as nearly a +straight line as possible. After an hour's travel the sun was hid by +clouds and the compass had to be entirely relied upon for the right +course. This was tedious business, for the woods had never been burned, +and the old fallen timber was almost impassable. About noon I noticed to +my utter astonishment, that the compass had reversed its poles. I knew +that beds of mineral would sometimes cause a variation of the needle and +was delighted at the thought of discovering a _valuable iron mine_ so +near salt water. A good deal of time was spent in breaking bushes and +thoroughly marking the spot so that there would be no difficulty in +finding it again, and from that on I broke bushes as I walked, so as to +be able to easily retrace my steps. From that place I followed the +compass _reversed_, calculating, as I walked, the number of ships that +would load annually at Seattle with pig-iron, and the amount of ground +that would be eventually covered at the cove with furnaces, rolling +mills, foundries, tool manufacturing establishments, etc. + +"As night came on I became satisfied that I had traveled too far to the +east, and had passed Seattle, and the prospect of spending a night in +the woods knocked my iron calculations into pi. Soon, however, I was +delighted to see a clearing ahead, and a shake-built shanty that I +concluded must be the ranch that Mr. Nagle had commenced improving some +time before, and which, I had understood, lay between Seattle and Lake +Washington. When I reached the fence surrounding the improvements, I +seated myself on one of the top rails for a seat and to ponder the +advisability of remaining with my new neighbor over night, or going on +to town. While sitting thus, I could not help contrasting his +improvements with my own. The size of the clearing was the same, the +house was a good deal like mine, the only seeming difference was that +the front of his faced the west, whereas the front of mine faced the +east. While puzzling over this strange coincidence, my own mother came +out of the house to feed the poultry that had commenced going to roost, +in a rookery for all the world like my own, only facing the wrong way. +'In the name of all that's wonderful!' I thought, 'what is she doing +here? and how did she get here ahead of me?' Just then the world took a +spin around, my ranch wheeled into line, and, lo! I was sitting on my +own fence, and had been looking at my own improvements without knowing +them." And from this he draws a moral and adorns the tale with the +philosophic conclusion that people cannot see and think alike owing to +their point of view, and we therefore must be charitable. + +Until accustomed to it and schooled in wood-craft, the mighty and +amazing forest was bewildering and mysterious to the adventurous +settler; however, they soon learned how not to lose themselves in its +labyrinthine depths. + +Dr. Smith is a past master in description, as will be seen by this +word-picture of a fire in a vast pitchy and resinous mass of combustible +material. I have witnessed many, each a magnificent display. + + "Washington beats the world for variety and magnificence of awe + inspiring mountains and other scenery. I have seen old ocean in + her wildest moods, have beheld the western prairie on fire by + night, when the long, waving lines of flame flared and flashed + their red light against the low, fleecy clouds till they + blossomed into roseate beauty, looking like vast spectral flower + gardens, majestically sweeping through the heavens; have been in + the valley of the river Platte, when all the windows of the sky + and a good many doors opened at once and the cloud-masked + batteries of the invisible hosts of the air volleyed and + thundered till the earth fairly reeled beneath the terrific + cannonade that tore its quivering bosom with red-hot bombs until + awe-stricken humanity shriveled into utter nothingness in the + presence of the mad fury of the mightiest forces of nature. But + for magnificence of sublime imagery and awe-inspiring grandeur a + forest fire raging among the gigantic firs and towering cedars + that mantle the shores of Puget Sound, surpasses anything I have + ever beheld, and absolutely baffles all attempts at description. + It has to be seen to be comprehended. The grandest display of + forest pyrotechnics is witnessed when an extensive tract that has + been partly cleared by logging is purposely or accidentally + fired. When thus partly cleared, all the tops of the fir, cedar, + spruce, pine and hemlock trees felled for their lumber remain on + the ground, their boughs fairly reeking with balsam. All inferior + trees are left standing, and in early days when only the very + choicest logs would be accepted by the mills, about one-third + would be left untouched, and then the trees would stand thicker, + mightier, taller than in the average forest of the eastern and + middle states. + + "I once witnessed the firing of a two thousand acre tract thus + logged over. It was noon in the month of August, and not a breath + of air moved the most delicate ferns on the hillsides. The birds + had hushed their songs for their midday siesta, and the babbling + brook at our feet had grown less garrulous, as if in sympathy + with the rest of nature, when the torch was applied. A dozen or + more neighbors had come together to witness the exhibition of the + unchained element about to hold high carnival in the amphitheater + of the hills, and each one posted himself, rifle in hand, in some + conspicuous place at least a quarter of a mile from the slashing + in order to get a shot at any wild animal fleeing from the 'wrath + to come.' + + "The tract was fired simultaneously on all sides by siwashes, who + rapidly circled it with long brands, followed closely by rivers + of flame in hot pursuit. + + "As soon as the fire worked its way to the massive winrows of dry + brush, piled in making roads in every direction, a circular wall + of solid flame rose half way to the tops of the tall trees. Soon + the rising of the heated air caused strong currents of cooler air + to set in from every side. The air currents soon increased to + cyclones. Then began a race of the towering, billowy, surging + walls of fire for the center. Driven furiously on by these + ever-increasing, eddying, and fiercely contending tornadoes, the + flames lolled and rolled and swayed and leaped, rising higher and + higher, until one vast, circular tidal wave of liquid fire rolled + in and met at the center with the whirl and roar of pandemoniac + thunder and shot up in a spiral and rapidly revolving red-hot + cone, a thousand feet in mid-air, out of whose flaring and + crater-like apex poured dense volumes of tarry smoke, spreading + out on every side, like unfolding curtains of night, till the sun + was darkened and the moon was turned to blood and the stars + seemed literally raining from heaven, as glowing firebrands that + had been carried up by the fierce tornado of swirling flame and + carried to immense distances by upper air currents, fell back in + showers to the ground. The vast tract, but a few moments before + as quiet as a sleeping infant in its cradle, was now one vast + arena of seething, roaring, raging flame. The long, lithe limbs + of the tall cedars were tossing wildly about, while the strong + limbs of the sturdier firs and hemlocks were freely gyrating like + the sinewy arms of mighty giant athletes engaged in mortal + combat. Ever and anon their lower, pitch-dripping branches would + ignite from the fervent heat below, when the flames would rush to + the very tops with the roar of contending thunders and shoot + upward in bright silvery volumes from five to seven hundred feet, + or double the height of the trees themselves. Hundreds of these + fire-volumes flaring and flaming in quick succession and + sometimes many of them simultaneously, in conjunction with the + weird eclipse-like darkness that veiled the heavens, rendered the + scene one of awful grandeur never to be forgotten. + + "So absorbed were we all in the preternatural war of the fiercely + contending elements that we forgot our guns, our game and + ourselves. + + * * * * * + + "The burnt district, after darkness set in, was wild and weird in + the extreme. The dry bark to the very tops of the tall trees was + on fire and constantly falling off in large flakes, and the air + was filled ever and anon with dense showers of golden stars, + while the trees in the environs seemed to move about through the + fitful shadows like grim brobdignags clad in sheeny armor." + +Having witnessed many similar conflagrations I am able to say that the +subject could scarcely be better treated. + +Through the courtesy of the author, Dr. H. A. Smith, I have been +permitted to insert the following poem, which has no doubt caused many a +grim chuckle and scowl of sympathy, too, from the old pioneers of the +Northwest: + + "THE MORTGAGE. + + "The man who holds a mortgage on my farm + And sells me out to gratify his greed, + Is shielded by our shyster laws from harm, + And ever laud for the dastard deed! + Though morally the man is really worse + Than if he knocked me down and took my purse; + The last would mean, at most, a moment's strife, + The first would mean the struggle of a life, + And homeless children wailing in the cold, + A prey to want and miseries manifold; + Then if I loot him of his mangy pup + The guardians of the law will lock me up, + And jaundiced justice fly into a rage + While pampered Piety askance my rags will scan, + And Shylock shout, 'Behold a dangerous man!' + But notwithstanding want to Heaven cries, + And villains masquerade in virtue's guise, + And Liberty is moribund or dead-- + Except for men who corporations head-- + One little consolation still remains, + The human race will one day rend its chains." + +In transcribing Indian myths and religious beliefs, Dr. Smith displays +much ability. After having had considerable acquaintance with the native +races, he concludes that "Many persons are honestly of the opinion that +Indians have no ideas above catching and eating salmon, but if they will +lay aside prejudice and converse freely with the more intelligent +natives, they will soon find that they reason just as well on all +subjects that attract their attention as we do, and being free from +pre-conceived opinions, they go directly to the heart of theories and +reason both inductively and deductively with surprising clearness and +force." + +Dr. Smith exhibits in his writings a broadly charitable mind which sees +even in the worst, still some lingering or smothered good. + +Dr. Smith is one of a family of patriots; his great-grandfather, +Copelton Smith, who came from Germany to America in 1760 and settled in +or near Philadelphia, Pa., fought for liberty in the war of the +Revolution under General Washington. His father, Nicholas Smith, a +native of Pennsylvania, fought for the Stars and Stripes in 1812. Two +brothers fought for Old Glory in the war of the Rebellion, and he +himself was one of the volunteers who fought for their firesides in the +State, then Territory of Washington. + +"A family of fighters," as he says, "famous for their peaceful +proclivities when let alone." + +The varied experiences of life in the Northwest have developed in him a +sane and sweet philosophy, perhaps nowhere better set forth in his +writings than in his poem "Pacific's Pioneers," read at a reunion of the +founders of the state a few years ago, and with which I close this brief +and inadequate sketch: + + "PACIFIC'S PIONEERS. + + "A greeting to Pacific's Pioneers, + Whose peaceful lives are drawing to a close, + Whose patient toil, for lo these many years, + Has made the forest blossom as the rose. + + "And bright-browed women, bonny, brave and true, + And laughing lasses, sound of heart and head, + Who home and kindred bade a last adieu + To follow love where fortune led. + + "I do not dedicate these lines alone + To men who live to bless the world today, + But I include the nameless and unknown + The pioneers who perished by the way. + + "Not for the recreant do my numbers ring, + The men who spent their lives in sport and spree, + Nor for the barnacles that always cling + To every craft that cruises Freedom's sea. + + "But nearly all were noble, brave and kind, + And little cared for fame or fashion's gyves; + And though they left their Sunday suits behind + They practiced pure religion all their lives. + + "Their love of peace no people could excel, + Their dash in war the poet's pen awaits; + Their sterling loyalty made possible + Pacific's golden galaxy of states. + + "They had no time to bother much about + Contending creeds that vex the nation's Hub, + But then they left their leather latches out + To every wandering Arab short of grub. + + "Cut off from all courts, man's earthly shield from harm, + They looked for help to Him whose court's above, + And learned to lean on labor's honest arm, + And live the higher law, the law of love. + + "Not one but ought to wear a crown of gold, + If crowns were made for men who do their best + Amid privations cast and manifold + That unborn generations may be blest. + + "Among these rugged pioneers the rule + Was equal rights, and all took special pride + In 'tending Mother Nature's matchless school, + And on her lessons lovingly relied. + + "And this is doubtless why they are in touch + With Nature's noblemen neath other skies; + And though of books they may not know as much + Their wisdom lasts, as Nature never lies. + + "And trusting God and His unerring plan + As only altruistic natures could + Their faith extended to their fellow man, + The image of the Author of all good. + + "Since Nature here has done her best to please + By making everything in beauty's mold, + Loads down with balm of flowers every breeze, + And runs her rivers over reefs of gold, + + "It seems but natural that men who yearn + For native skies, and visit scenes of yore, + Are seldom satisfied till they return + To roam the Gardens of the Gods once more! + + "And since they fell in love with nature here + How fitting they should wish to fall asleep + Where sparkling mountain spires soar and spear + The stainless azure of the upper deep. + + "And yet we're saddened when the papers say + Another pioneer has passed away! + And memory recalls when first, forsooth, + We saw him in the glorious flush of youth. + + "How plain the simple truth when seen appears, + No wonder that faded leaves we fall! + This is the winter of the pioneers + That blows a wreath of wrinkles to us all! + + "A few more mounds for faltering feet to seek, + When, somewhere in this lovely sunset-land + Like some weird, wintry, weather-beaten peak + Some rare old Roman all alone will stand. + + "But not for long, for ere the rosy dawn + Of many golden days has come and gone, + Our pine-embowered bells will shout to every shore + 'Pacific's Pioneers are now no more!' + + "But lovely still the glorious stars will glow + And glitter in God's upper deep like pearls + And mountains too will wear their robes of snow + Just as they did when we were boys and girls. + + "Ah well, it may be best, and is, no doubt, + As death is quite as natural as birth + And since no storms can blow the sweet stars out, + Why should one wish to always stay on earth? + + "Especially as God can never change, + And man's the object of His constant care + And though beyond the Pleiades we range + His boundless love and mercy must be there." + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +FAMOUS INDIAN CHIEFS. + + +Sealth or "Old Seattle," a peaceable son of the forest, was of a line of +chieftains, his father, Schweabe, or Schweahub, a chief before him of +the Suquampsh tribe inhabiting a portion of the west shore of Puget +Sound, his mother, a Duwampsh of Elliott Bay, whose name was +Wood-sho-lit-sa. + +Sealth's birthplace was the famous Oleman House, near the site of which +he is now buried. Oleman House was an immense timber structure, long ago +inhabited by many Indians; scarcely a vestige of it now remains. It was +built by Sealth's father. Chief Sealth was twice married and had three +sons and five daughters, the last of whom, Angeline, or Ka-ki-is-il-ma, +passed away on May 31, 1896. In an interview she informed me that her +grandfather, Schweabe, was a tall, slim man, while Sealth was rather +heavy as well as tall. Sealth was a hunter, she said, but not a great +warrior. In the time of her youth there were herds of elk near Oleman +House which Sealth hunted with the bow or gun. + +The elk, now limited to the fastnesses of the Olympic Mountains, were +also hunted in the cove south of West Seattle, by Englishmen, Sealth's +cousin, Tsetseguis, helping, with other Indians, to carry out the +game. + +Angeline further said that her father, "Old Seattle," as the white +people called him, inherited the chiefship when a little boy. As he grew +up he became more important, married, obtained slaves, of whom he had +eight when the Dennys came, and acquired wealth. Of his slaves, Yutestid +is living (1899) and when reminded of him she laughed and repeated his +name several times, saying, "Yutestid! Yutestid! How was it possible for +me to forget him? Why, we grew up together!" Yutestid was a slave by +descent, as also were five others; the remaining two he had purchased. +It is said that he bought them out of pity from another who treated them +cruelly. + +Sealth, Keokuk, William and others, with quite a band of Duwampsh and +Suquampsh Indians, once attacked the Chimacums, surrounded their large +house or rancheree at night; at some distance away they joined hands +forming a circle and gradually crept up along the ground until quite +near, when they sprang up and fired upon them; the terrified occupants +ran out and were killed by their enemies. On entering they found one of +the wounded crawling around crying "Ah! A-ah!" whom they quickly +dispatched with an ax. + +A band of Indians visited Alki in 1851, who told the story to the white +settlers, imitating their movements as the attacking party and +evidently much enjoying the performance. + +About the year 1841, Sealth set himself to avenge the death of his +nephew, Almos, who was killed by Owhi. With five canoe loads of his +warriors, among whom was Curley, he ascended White River and attacked a +large camp, killed more than ten men and carried the women and children +away into captivity. + +At one time in Olympia some renegades who had planned to assassinate +him, fired a shot through his tent but he escaped unhurt. Dr. Maynard, +who visited him shortly after, saw that while he talked as coolly as if +nothing unusual had occurred, he toyed with his bow and arrow as if he +felt his power to deal death to the plotters, but nothing was ever known +of their punishment. + +Sealth was of a type of Puget Sound Indian whose physique was not by any +means contemptible. Tall, broad shouldered, muscular, even brawny, +straight and strong, they made formidable enemies, and on the warpath +were sufficiently alarming to satisfy the most exacting tenderfoot whose +contempt for the "bowlegged siwash" is by no means concealed. Many of +the old grizzly-haired Indians were of large frame and would, if living, +have made a towering contrast to their little "runts" of critics. + +Neither were their minds dwarfed, for evidently not narrowed by running +in the grooves of other men's thoughts, they were free to nourish +themselves upon nature and from their magnificent environment they drew +many striking comparisons. + +Not versed in the set phrases of speech, time-worn and hackneyed, their +thoughts were naive, fresh, crude and angular as the frost-rended rocks +on the mountain side. A number of these Indians were naturally gifted as +orators; with great, mellow voices, expressive gestures, flaming +earnestness, piteous pathos and scorching sarcasm, they told their +wrongs, commemorated their dead and declared their friendship or hatred +in a voluminous, polysyllabic language no more like Chinook than +American is like pigeon English. + +The following is a fragment valuable for the intimation it gives of +their power as orators, as well as a true description of the appearance +of Sealth, written by Dr. H. A. Smith, a well known pioneer, and +published in the Seattle Sunday Star of October 29, 1877: + + "Old Chief Seattle was the largest Indian I ever saw, and by far + the noblest looking. He stood nearly six feet in his moccasins, + was broad-shouldered, deep-chested and finely proportioned. His + eyes were large, intelligent, expressive and friendly when in + repose, and faithfully mirrored the varying moods of the great + soul that looked through them. He was usually solemn, silent and + dignified, but on great occasions moved among assembled + multitudes like a Titan among Lilliputians, and his lightest word + was law. + + "When rising to speak in council or to tender advice, all eyes + were turned upon him, and deep-toned, sonorous and eloquent + sentences rolled from his lips like the ceaseless thunders of + cataracts flowing from exhaustless fountains, and his magnificent + bearing was as noble as that of the most civilized military + chieftain in command of the force of a continent. Neither his + eloquence, his dignity nor his grace was acquired. They were as + native to his manhood as leaves and blossoms are to a flowering + almond. + + "His influence was marvelous. He might have been an emperor but + all his instincts were democratic, and he ruled his subjects with + kindness and paternal benignity. + + "He was always flattered by marked attentions from white men, and + never so much as when seated at their tables, and on such + occasions he manifested more than anywhere else his genuine + instincts of a gentleman. + + "When Governor Stevens first arrived in Seattle and told the + natives that he had been appointed commissioner of Indian affairs + for Washington Territory, they gave him a demonstrative reception + in front of Dr. Maynard's office near the water front on Main + Street. The bay swarmed with canoes and the shore was lined with + a living mass of swaying, writhing, dusky humanity, until Old + Chief Seattle's trumpet-toned voice rolled over the immense + multitude like the reveille of a bass drum, when silence became + as instantaneous and perfect as that which follows a clap of + thunder from a clear sky. + + "The governor was then introduced to the native multitude by Dr. + Maynard, and at once commenced in a conversational, plain and + straightforward style, an explanation of his mission among them, + which is too well understood to require recapitulation. + + "When he sat down, Chief Seattle arose, with all the dignity of a + senator who carries the responsibilities of a great nation on his + shoulders. Placing one hand on the governor's head, and slowly + pointing heavenward with the index finger of the other, he + commenced his memorable address in solemn and impressive tones: + + "'Yonder sky has wept tears of compassion on our fathers for + centuries untold, and which to us, looks eternal, may change. + Today it is fair, tomorrow it may be overcast with clouds. My + words are like the clouds that never set. What Seattle says the + chief Washington can rely upon, with as much certainty as our + pale-face brothers can rely upon the return of the seasons. The + son of the white chief says his father sends us greetings of + friendship and good-will. This is kind, for we know he has little + need of our friendship in return, because his people are many. + They are like the grass that covers the vast prairie, while my + people are few and resemble the scattering trees of a storm-swept + plain. + + "'The great, and I presume good, white chief sends us word that + he wants to buy our lands, but is willing to allow us to reserve + enough to live on comfortably. This indeed appears generous, for + the red man no longer has rights that he need respect, and the + offer may be wise also, for we are no longer in need of a great + country. + + "'There was a time when our people covered the whole land as the + waves of a wind-ruffled sea covers its shell-paved shore. That + time has long since passed away with the greatness of tribes + almost forgotten. I will not mourn over our untimely decay, or + reproach my pale-face brothers with hastening it, for we, too, + may have been somewhat to blame. + + "'When our young men grew angry at some real or imaginary wrong + and disfigured their faces with black paint, their hearts also + are disfigured and turned black, and then cruelty is relentless + and knows no bounds, and our old men are not able to restrain + them.' + + "He continued in this eloquent strain and closed by saying: 'We + will ponder your proposition and when we have decided we will + tell you, but should we accept it I here and now make this first + condition: That we shall not be denied the privilege, without + molestation, of visiting at will the graves of our ancestors and + friends. Every part of this country is sacred to my people; + every hillside, every valley, every plain and grove has been + hallowed by some fond memory or some sad experience of my tribe. + + "'Even the rocks that seem to lie dumb, as they swelter in the + sun, along the silent seashore in solemn grandeur, thrill with + memories of past events, connected with the fate of my people and + the very dust under our feet responds more lovingly to our + footsteps than to yours, because it is the ashes of our ancestors + and their bare feet are conscious of the sympathetic touch, for + the soil is rich with the life of our kindred. At night when the + streets of your cities and villages shall be silent and you think + them deserted they will throng with the returning hosts that once + filled and still love this beautiful land. The white man will + never be alone. Let him be just and deal kindly with my people, + for the dead are not altogether powerless.'" + +Concerning the well-known portrait of Sealth, Clarence Bagley has this +to say: + + "It was in the early summer of 1865 that the original picture + which is now so much seen of the old chief was taken. I think I + probably have a diary giving the day upon which the old chief sat + for his picture. An amateur artist named E. M. Sammis had secured + a camera at Olympia and coming to Seattle established himself in + a ramshackle building at the southeast corner of what is now Main + and First Avenue South. Old Chief Seattle used often to hang + about the gallery and scrutinize the pictures with evident + satisfaction. I myself spent not a little time in and about the + gallery and on the particular day the picture of the old chief + was taken, was there. It occurred to the photographer to get a + picture of the chief. The latter was easily persuaded to sit and + it is a wrong impression, that has become historic, that the + Indians generally were afraid of the photographer's art, + considering it black magic. + + "The chief's picture was taken and I printed the first copy taken + from the negative. There may possibly have been photographs taken + of the old chief at a later date, but I do not remember any, + certainly none earlier, that I ever knew of." + +With regard to Sealth's oratory, D. T. Denny relates that when the chief +with his "tillicum" camped on the "Point" near the site of the New +England Hotel, often in the evening he would stand up and address his +people. D. T. Denny's home was near the site of the Stevens Hotel +(Marion and First Avenue, Seattle), and many Indians were camped near +by. When these heard Chief Sealth's voice, they would turn their heads +in a listening attitude and evidently understood what he was saying, +although he was about three-fourths of a mile away, such was the +resonance and carrying power of his voice. + +My father has also related to me this incident: Sealth and his people +camped alongside the little white settlement at Alki. While there one +of his wives died and A. A. Denny made a coffin for the body, but they +wrapped the same in so many blankets that it would not go in and they +were obliged to remove several layers, although they probably felt +regret as the number of wrappings no doubt evidenced wealth and +position. + +D. T. Denny was well acquainted with George Seattle, or See-an-ump-kun, +one of Sealth's sons, who was a friendly, good-natured Indian, married +to a woman of the Sklallam tribe. The other surviving son when the +whites arrived, was called Jim Seattle. + +Thlid Kanem was a cousin of Sealth. + +On the 7th of June, 1866, the famous old chieftain joined the Great +Majority. + +He had outlived many of his race, doubtless because of his temperate +habits. + +If, as the white people concluded, he was born in 1786, his age was +eighty years. It might well have been greater, as they have no records +and old Indians show little change often in twenty or twenty-five years, +as I have myself observed. + +In 1890 some leading pioneers of Seattle erected a monument to his +memory over his grave in the Port Madison reservation. A Christian +emblem it is, a cross of Italian marble adorned with an ivy wreath and +bears this legend: + + "SEATTLE + Chief of the Suqamps and Allied Tribes, + Died June 7, 1866. + The Firm Friend of the Whites, and for Him the + City of Seattle was Named by Its + Founders." + +Also on the side opposite, + + "Baptismal name, Noah Sealth, Age probably + 80 years." + + +LESCHI. + +Leschi was a noted Nesqually-Klickitat chief, who at the head of a body +of warriors attacked Seattle in 1856. + +Other chiefs implicated were, Kitsap, Kanasket, Quiemuth, Owhi and +Coquilton. + +Leschi being accused of influencing the Indians at Seattle, who were +friendly, in January, 1856, an attempt was made to capture him by +Captain Keyes of Fort Steilacoom. Keyes sent Maloney and his company in +the Hudson Bay Company's steamer "Beaver" to take him prisoner. + +They attempted to land but Leschi gathered up his warriors and prepared +to fight. Being at a decided disadvantage, as but a few could land at a +time, the soldiers were obliged to withdraw. Keyes made a second attempt +in the surveying steamer "Active;" having no cannon he tried to borrow a +howitzer from the "Decatur" at Seattle, but the captain refused to loan +it and Keyes returned to get a gun at the fort. Leschi prudently +withdrew to Puyallup, where he continued his warlike preparations. +Followed by quite an army of hostile Indians, he landed on the shore of +Lake Washington, east of Seattle, at a point near what is now called +Leschi Park, and on the 26th of January, 1856, made the memorable attack +on Seattle. + +The cunning and skill of the Indian in warfare were no match for the +white man's cannon and substantial defenses and Leschi was defeated. He +threatened a second attack but none was ever made. By midsummer the war +was at an end. + +By an agreement of a council held in the Yakima country, between Col. +Wright and the conquered chiefs, among whom were Leschi, Quiemuth, +Nelson, Stahi and the younger Kitsap, they were permitted to go free on +parole, having promised to lead peaceable lives. Leschi complied with +the agreement but feared the revenge of white men, so gave himself up to +Dr. Tolmie, as stated elsewhere. Dr. Tolmie was Chief Factor of the +Hudson Bay Company. He came from Scotland in 1833 with another young +surgeon and served in the medical department at Fort Vancouver several +years. Dr. Tolmie was a prominent figure at Fort Nesqually, a very +influential man with the Indians and distinguished for his ability; he +lived in Victoria many years, where he died at a good old age. + +[Illustration: TYPES OF INDIAN HOUSES] + +A special term of court was held to try Leschi for a murder which it +could not be proven he committed and the jury failed to agree. He was +tried again in March, 1857, convicted and sentenced to be hanged on the +10th of June. The case was carried up to the supreme court and the +verdict sustained. Again he was sentenced to die on the 22nd of January, +1858. A strong appeal was made by those who wished to see justice done, +to Gov. McMullin, who succeeded Gov. Stevens, but a protest prevailed, +and when the day set for execution arrived, a multitude of people +gathered to witness it at Steilacoom. But the doomed man's friends saw +the purpose was revenge and a sharp reproof was administered. The +sheriff and his deputy were arrested, for selling liquor to the Indians, +before the hour appointed, and held until the time passed. Greatly +chagrined at being frustrated, the crowd held meetings the same evening +and by appealing to the legislature and some extraordinary legislation +in sympathy with them, supplemented by "ground and lofty tumbling" in +the courts, Leschi was sentenced for the third time. + +On the 19th of February, 1858, worn by sickness and prolonged +imprisonment he was murdered in accordance with the sentiment of his +enemies. + +No doubt the methods of _savage_ warfare were not approved, but that did +not prevent their hanging a man on parole. + +On July 3rd, 1895, a large gathering of Indians assembled on the +Nesqually reservation. Over one thousand were there. They met to remove +the bones of Leschi and Quiemuth to the reservation. The ceremonies were +very impressive; George Leschi, a nephew of Leschi and son of Quiemuth, +made a speech in the Indian tongue. He said the war was caused by the +whites demanding that the Nesqually and Puyallup Indians be removed to +the Quiniault reservation on the Pacific Coast, and their reservation +thrown open for settlement. It was in battling for the rights of their +people and to preserve the lands of their forefathers, he said, that the +war was inaugurated by the Indian chiefs. + + +PAT KANEM. + +The subject of this sketch was one of the most interesting characters +brought into prominence by the conflict of the two races in early days +of conquest in the Northwest. That he was sometimes misunderstood was +inevitable as he was self-contained and independent in his nature and +probably concealed his motives from friend and foe alike. + +The opinion of the Indians was not wholly favorable to him as he became +friendly to the white people, especially so toward some who were +influential. + +Pat Kanem was one of seven brothers, his mother a Snoqualmie of which +tribe he was the recognized leader, his father, of another tribe, the +Soljampsh. + +It is said that he planned the extermination or driving out of the +whites and brought about a collision at old Fort Nesqually in 1849, when +Leander Wallace was killed, he and his warriors having picked a quarrel +with the Indians in that vicinity who ran to the fort for protection. It +seems impossible to ascertain the facts as to the intention of the +Snoqualmies because of conflicting accounts. Some who are well +acquainted with the Indians think it was a quarrel, pure and simple, +between the Indians camped near by and the visiting Snoqualmies, without +any ulterior design upon the white men or upon the fort itself. Also, +Leander Wallace persisted in boasting that he could settle the +difficulty with a club and contrary to the persuasions of the people in +the fort went outside, thereby losing his life. + +Four of Pat Kanem's brothers were arrested; and although one shot killed +Wallace, two Indians were hung, a proceeding which would hardly have +followed had they been white men. John Kanem, one of Pat Kanem's +brothers, often visited Mr. and Mrs. D. T. Denny afterward, and would +repeat again and again, "They killed my brother" (Kluskie mem-a-loose +nika ow). + +A Snoqualmie Indian in an interview recently said that Qushun (Little +Cloud) persuaded Pat Kanem to give up his brother so that he might +surely obtain and maintain the chiefship. Whatever may have been his +attitude at first toward the white invaders he afterward became their +ally in subduing the Indian outbreak. + +As A. A. Denny recounts in his valuable work "Pioneer Days on Puget +Sound," Pat Kanem gave him assurance of his steadfast friendship before +the war and further demonstrated it by appearing according to previous +agreement, accompanied by women and children of the tribe, obviously a +peace party, with gifts of choice game which he presented on board to +the captain of the "Decatur." + +With half a hundred or more of his warriors, his services were accepted +by the governor and they applied themselves to the gruesome industry of +taking heads from the hostile ranks. Eighty dollars for a chief's head +and twenty for a warrior's were the rewards offered. + +Lieut. Phelps, gratefully remembered by the settlers of Seattle, thus +described his appearance at Olympia, after having invested some of his +pay in "Boston ictas" (clothes): "Pat Kanem was arrayed in citizen's +garb, including congress gaiters, white kid gloves, and a white shirt +with standing collar reaching half-way up his ears, and the whole +finished off with a flaming red neck-tie." + +Pat Kanem died while yet young; he must have been regarded with +affection by his people. Years afterward when one of his tribe visited +an old pioneer, he was given a photograph of Pat Kanem to look at; +wondering at his silence the family were struck by observing that he +was gazing intently on the pictured semblance of his dead and gone +chieftain, while great tears rolled unchecked down the bronze cheeks. +What thoughts of past prosperity, the happy, roving life of the long ago +and those who mingled in it, he may have had, we cannot tell. + + +STUDAH. + +Studah, or Williams, was one of three sons of a very old Duwampsh chief, +"Queaucton," who brought them to A. A. Denny asking that he give them +"Boston" names. He complied by calling them Tecumseh, Keokuk and +William. + +The following sketch was written by Rev. G. F. Whitworth, a well-known +pioneer: + + "William, the chief of the surviving Indians of the Duwampsh + tribe, died at the Indian camp on Cedar River on Wednesday, April + 1. He was one of the few remaining Indians who were at all + prominent in the early settlement of this country, and is almost, + if not actually, the last of those who were ever friendly to the + whites. His father, who died about the time that the first white + settlements were made in this country, was the principal or head + chief of the Duwamish Indians. He left three sons, Tecumseh, + Keokuk and William. All of whom are now dead. Tecumseh, + presumably the eldest son, succeeded his father, and was + recognized as chief until he was deposed by Capt. (now Gen.) + Dent, U. S. A., who acted under authority of the United States + government in relation to the Indians, at that time. He had some + characteristics which seemed to disqualify him for the office, + while on the other hand William seemed pre-eminently fitted to + fill the position, and was therefore chief and had been + recognized both by whites and Indians up to the time of his + death. + + "At the time of the Indian war, he, like Seattle and Curley, was + a true friend of the whites. The night before Seattle was + attacked there was a council of war held in the woods back of the + town, and William attended that council, and his voice was heard + for peace and against war. He was always friendly to the whites, + and for nearly forty years he has been faithful in his friendship + to E. W. Smithers, to whom I am indebted for much of the + information contained in this article. + + "Those who knew William will remember that he was distinguished + for natural dignity of manner. He was an earnest and sincere + Catholic, was a thoroughly good Indian, greatly respected by his + tribe, and having the confidence of those among the whites who + knew him. William was an orator and quite eloquent in his own + language. On one occasion shortly after Capt. Hill, U. S. A., + came to the territory, some complaints had been made to the + superintendent, which were afterwards learned to be unfounded, + asking to have the Duwamish Indians removed from Black River to + the reservation. Capt. Hill was sent to perform this service, and + went with a steamer to their camp, which was on Mr. Smither's + farm, a little above the railroad bridge. The captain was + accompanied by United States Agent Finkbonner, and on his arrival + at the camp addressed the Indians, through an interpreter, + informing them of the nature of his errand, and directing them to + gather their 'ictas' without delay and go on board the steamer, + to be at once conveyed to the reservation. William and his + Indians listened respectfully to the captain, and when he had + closed his remarks William made his reply. + + "His speech was about an hour in length, in which his eloquence + was clearly exhibited. He replied that the father at Olympia or + the Great Father at Washington City, had no right to remove his + tribe. They were peaceful, had done no wrong. They were under no + obligation to the government, had received nothing at its hands, + and had asked for nothing; they had entered into no treaty; their + lands had been taken from them. This, however, was their home. He + had been born on Cedar River, and there he intended to remain, + and there his bones should be laid. They were not willing to be + removed. They could not be removed. He might bring the soldiers + to take them, but when they should come he would not find them, + for they would flee and hide themselves in the 'stick' (the + woods) where the soldiers could not find them. Capt. Hill found + himself in a dilemma, out of which he was extricated by Mr. + Smithers, who convinced the captain that the complaints were + unfounded, and that with two or three exceptions those who had + signed the complaint and made the request did not reside in that + neighborhood, but lived miles away. They were living on Mr. + Smithers' land with his consent, and when he further guaranteed + their good behavior, and Mrs. Smithers assured him that she had + no fears and no grievance, but that when Mr. Smithers was away + she considered them a protection rather than otherwise, the + captain concluded to return without them, and to report the facts + as he found them. + + "William's last message was sent to Mr. Smithers a few days + before he died, and was a request that he would see that he was + laid to rest as befitted his rank, and not allow him to be buried + like a seedy old vagrant, as many of the newcomers considered him + to be. + + "It is hardly necessary for me to say that this request was + faithfully complied with, and that on Friday, April 3, his + remains were interred in the Indian burying ground near Renton. + The funeral was a large one, Indians from far and near coming to + render their last tribute of respect to his memory. + + "From the time of his birth until his death he had lived in the + region of Cedar and Black Rivers, seventy-nine years. + + "His successor as chief will be his nephew, Rogers, who is a son + of Tecumseh." + + +"ANGELINE." + +Ka-ki-is-il-ma, called Angeline by the white settlers, about whom so much +has been written, was a daughter of Sealth. + +In an interview, some interesting facts were elicited. + +Angeline saw white people first at Nesqually, "King George" people, the +Indians called the Hudson Bay Company's agents and followers. + +She saw the brothers of Pat Kanem arrested for the killing of Wallace; +she said that Sealth thought it was right that the two Snoqualmies were +executed. + +When a little girl she wore deerskin robes or long coats and a collar of +shells; in those days her tribe made three kinds of robes, some of +"suwella," "shulth" or mountain beaver fur, and of deer-skins; the third +was possibly woven, as they made blankets of mountain sheep's wool and +goat's hair. + +Angeline was first married to a big chief of the Skagits, Dokubkun by +name; her second husband was Talisha, a Duwampsh chief. She was a widow +of about forty-five when Americans settled on Elliott Bay. Two +daughters, Chewatum or Betsy and Mamie, were her only children known to +the white people, and both married white men. Betsy committed suicide by +hanging herself in the shed room of a house on Commercial Street, tying +herself to a rafter by a red bandanna handkerchief. Betsy left an +infant son, since grown up, who lived with Angeline many years. Mary or +Mamie married Wm. DeShaw and has been dead for some time. + +It has been said that some are born great, some achieve greatness, while +others have greatness thrust upon them. Of the last described class, +Angeline was a shining representative. Souvenir spoons, photographs, and +cups bearing her likeness have doubtless traveled over a considerable +portion of the civilized world, all of the notoriety arising therefrom +certainly being unsought by the poor old Indian woman. + +Newspaper reporters, paragraphers, and magazine writers have never +wearied of limning her life, recounting even the smallest incidents and +making of her a conspicuous figure in the literature of the Northwest. + +It quite naturally follows that some absurd things have been written, +some heartless, others pathetic and of real literary value, although it +has been difficult for the tenderfoot to avoid errors. Upon the event of +her death, which occurred on Sunday, May 31st, 1896, a leading paper +published an editorial in which a brief outline of the building of the +city witnessed by Angeline was given and is here inserted: + + "Angeline, as she had been named by the early settlers, had seen + many wonders. Born on the lonely shores of an unknown country, + reared in the primeval forest, she saw all the progress of modern + civilization. She saw the first cabin of the pioneer; the + struggles for existence on the part of the white man with nature; + the hewing of the log, then the work of the sawmill, the revolt + of the aboriginal inhabitants against the intruder and the + subjugation of the inferior race; the growth from one hut to a + village; from village to town; the swelling population with its + concomitants of stores, ships and collateral industries; the + platting of a town; the organization of government; the + accumulation of commerce; the advent of railroads and + locomotives; of steamships and great engines of maritime warfare; + the destruction of a town by fire and the marvelous energy which + built upon its site, a city. Where there had been a handful of + shacks she saw a city of sixty thousand people; in place of a few + canoes she saw a great fleet of vessels, stern-wheelers, + side-wheelers, propellers, whalebacks, the Charleston and + Monterey. She saw the streets lighted by electricity; saw the + telephone, elevators and many other wonders. + + * * * * * + + "Death came to her as it does to all; but it came as the + precursor of extinction, it adds another link in the chain which + exemplifies the survival of the fittest." + +These comments are coldly judicial and exactly after the mind of the +unsympathetic tenderfoot or the "hard case" of early days. In speaking +of the "survival of the fittest" and the "subjugation of the inferior +race" a contrast is drawn flattering to the white race, but any mention +of the incalculable injury, outrages, indignities and villainies +practiced upon the native inhabitants by evil white men is carefully +avoided. Angeline "saw" a good many other things not mentioned in the +above eulogy upon civilization. She saw the wreck wrought by the white +man's drink; the Indians never made a fermented liquor of their own. + +Angeline said that her father, Sealth, once owned all the land on which +Seattle is built, that he was friendly to the white people and wanted +them to have the land; that she was glad to see fine buildings, stores +and such like, but not the saloons; she did not like it at all that the +white people built saloons and Joe, her grandson, would go to them and +get drunk and then they made her pay five dollars to get him out of +jail! + +However, I will not dwell here on the dark side of the poor Indians' +history, I turn therefore to more pleasant reminiscence. + +Ankuti (a great while ago) when the days were long and happy, in the +time of wild blackberries, two pioneer women with their children, of +whom the writer was one, embarked with Angeline and Mamie in a canoe, +under the old laurel (madrona) tree and paddled down Elliott Bay to a +fine blackberry patch on W. N. Bell's claim. + +After wandering about a long while they sat down to rest on mossy logs +beside the trail. They sat facing the water, the day was waning, and as +they thought of their return one of them said, "O look at the canoe!" It +was far out on the shining water; the tide had come up while the party +wandered in the woods and the canoe, with its stake, was quite a +distance from the bank. Mamie ran down the trail to the beach, took off +her moccasins and swam out to the canoe, her mother and the rest +intently watching her. Then she dived down to the bottom; as her round, +black head disappeared beneath the rippling surface, Angeline said "Now +she's gone." But in a few moments we breathed a sigh of relief as up she +rose, having pulled up the stake, and climbed into the canoe, although +how she did it one cannot tell, and paddled to the shore to take in the +happy crew. This little incident, but more especially the scene, the +forms and faces of my friends, the dark forest, moss-cushioned seats +under drooping branches, and the graceful canoe afloat on the silvery +water--and it _did_ seem for a few, long moments that Mamie was gone as +Angeline said in her anxiety for her child's safety showing she too was +a human mother--all this has never left my memory! + +Angeline lived for many years in her little shanty near the water front, +assisted often with food and clothing from kindly white friends. She had +a determination to live, die and be buried in Seattle, as it was her +home, and that, too, near her old pioneer friends, thus typifying one of +the dearest wishes of the Indians. + +She was one of the good Indian washerwomen, gratefully remembered by +pioneer housewives. These faithful servitors took on them much toil, +wearing and wearisome, now accomplished by machinery or Chinese. + +The world is still deceived by the external appearance; but even the +toad "ugly and venomous" was credited with a jewel in its head. + +Now Angeline was ugly and untidy, and all that, but not as soulless as +some who relegated her to the lowest class of living creatures. + +A white friend whom she often visited, Mrs. Sarah Kellogg, said to the +writer, "Angeline lived up to the light she had; she was honest and +would never take anything that was offered her unless she needed it. I +always made her some little present, saying, 'Well, Angeline, what do +you want? Some sugar?' 'No, I have plenty of sugar, I would like a +little tea.' So it was with anything else mentioned, if she was supplied +she said so. I had not seen her for quite a while at one time, and +hearing she was sick sent my husband to the door of her shack to inquire +after her. Sure enough she lay in her bunk unable to rise. When asked if +she wanted anything to eat, she replied, 'No, I have plenty of +muck-amuck; Arthur Denny sent me a box full, but I want some candles and +matches.' + +"She told me that she was getting old and might die any time and that +she never went to bed without saying her prayers. + +"During a long illness she came to my house quite often, but was sent +away by those in charge; when I was at last able to sit up, I saw her +approaching the house and went down to the kitchen to be ready to +receive her. As usual I inquired after her wants, when she somewhat +indignantly asked, 'Don't you suppose I can come to see you without +wanting something?' + +"One day as she sat in my kitchen a young white girl asked before her, +in English, of course, 'Does Angeline know anything about God?' She said +quickly in Chinook, 'You tell that girl that I know God sees me all the +time; I might lie or steal and you would never find it out, but God +would see me do it.'" + +In her old age she exerted herself, even when feeble from sickness, to +walk long distances in quest of food and other necessities, stumping +along with her cane and sitting down now and then on a door-step to rest. + +All the trades-people knew her and were generally kind to her. + +At last she succumbed to an attack of lung trouble and passed away. +Having declared herself a Roman Catholic, she was honorably buried from +the church in Seattle, Rev. F. X. Prefontaine officiating, while several +of the old pioneers were pallbearers. + +A canoe-shaped coffin had been prepared on which lay a cross of native +rhododendrons and a cluster of snowballs, likely from an old garden. A +great concourse of people were present, many out of curiosity, no doubt, +while some were there with real feeling and solemn thought. Her old +friend, Mrs. Maynard, stood at the head of the grave and dropped in a +sprig of cedar. She spoke some encouraging words to Joe Foster, Betsy's +son, and Angeline's sole mourner, advising him to live a good life. + +And so Angeline was buried according to her wish, in the burying ground +of the old pioneers. + + +YUTESTID. + +After extending numerous invitations, I was pleasantly surprised upon my +return to my home one day to find Mr. and Mrs. Yutestid awaiting an +interview. + +In the first place this Indian name is pronounced _Yute-stid_ and he is +the only survivor (in 1898) of Chief Sealth's once numerous household. +His mother was doubtless a captive, a Cowichan of British Columbia; his +father, a Puget Sound Indian from the vicinity of Olympia. He was quite +old, he does not know how old, but not decrepit; Angeline said they grew +up together. + +[Illustration: LAST VOYAGE OF THE LUMEI] + +He is thin and wiry looking, with some straggling bristles for a beard +and thick short hair, still quite black, covering a head which looks as +if it had been flattened directly on top as well as back and front as +they were wont to do. This peculiar cranial development does not affect +his intelligence, however, as we have before observed in others; he is +quick-witted and knows a great many things. Yutestid says he can speak +all the leading dialects of the Upper Sound, Soljampsh, Nesqually, +Puyallup, Snoqualmie, Duwampsh, Snohomish, but not the Sklallam and +others north toward Vancouver. + +Several incidents related in this volume were mentioned and he +remembered them perfectly, referred to the naming of "New York" on Alki +Point and the earliest settlement, repeating the names of the pioneers. +The murder at Bean's Point was committed by two Soljampsh Indians, he +said, and they were tried and punished by an Indian court. + +He remembers the hanging of Pat Kanem's brothers, Kussass and +Quallawowit. + +"Long ago, the Indians fight, fight, fight," he said, but he declared he +had never heard of the Duwampsh campaign attributed to Sealth. + +Yutestid was not at the battle of Seattle but at Oleman House with +Sealth's tribe and others whom Gov. Stevens had ordered there. He +chuckled as he said "The bad Indians came into the woods near town and +the man-of-war (Decatur) mamoked pooh (shot) at them and they were +frightened and ran away." + +Lachuse, the Indian who was shot near Seneca Street, Seattle, he +remembered, and when I told him how the Indian doctor extracted the +buckshot from the wounds he sententiously remarked, "Well, sometimes +the Indian doctors did very well, sometimes they were old humbugs, just +the same as white people." + +Oleman House was built long before he was born, according to his +testimony, and was adorned by a carved wooden figure, over the entrance, +of the great thunder bird, which performed the office of a lightning rod +or at least prevented thunder bolts from striking the building. + +When asked what the medium of exchange was "ankuti" (long ago), he +measured on the index finger the length of pieces of abalone shell +formerly used for money. + +In those days he saw the old women make feather robes of duck-skins, +also of deer-skins and dog-skins with the hair on; they made bead work, +too; beaded moccasins called "_Yachit_." + +The old time ways were very slow; he described the cutting of a huge +cedar for a canoe as taking a long time to do, by hacking around it with +a stone hammer and "chisel." + +Before the advent of the whites, mats served as sails. + +I told him of having seen the public part of Black Tamanuse and they +both laughed at the heathenism of long ago and said, "We don't have that +now." + +Yutestid denied that _his_ people ate dog when making black tamanuse, +but said the Sklallams did so. + +"If I could speak better English or you better Chinook I could tell you +lots of stories," he averred. Chinook is so very meager, however, that +an interpreter of the native tongue will be necessary to get these +stories. + +They politely shook hands and bade me "Good-bye" to jog off through the +rain to their camping place, Indian file, he following in the rear +contentedly smoking a pipe. Yutestid is industrious, cultivating a patch +of ground and yearly visiting the city of Seattle with fruit to sell. + + + THE CHIEF'S REPLY. + + Yonder sky through ages weeping + Tender tears o'er sire and son, + O'er the dead in grave-banks sleeping, + Dead and living loved as one, + May turn cruel, harsh and brazen, + Burn as with a tropic sun, + But my words are true and changeless, + Changeless as the season's run. + + Waving grass-blades of wide prairie + Shuttled by lithe foxes wary, + As the eagle sees afar, + So the pale-face people are; + Like the lonely scattering pine-trees + On a bleak and stormy shore, + Few my brother warriors linger + Faint and failing evermore. + + Well I know you could command us + To give o'er the land we love, + With your warriors well withstand us + And ne'er weep our graves above. + See on Whulch the South wind blowing + And the waves are running free! + Once my people they were many + Like the waves of Whulch's sea. + + When our young men rise in anger, + Gather in a war-bent band, + Face black-painted and the musket + In the fierce, relentless hand, + Old men pleading, plead in vain, + Their dark spirits none restrain. + + If to you our land we barter, + This we ask ere set of sun, + To the graves of our forefathers, + Till our days on earth are done, + We may wander as our hearts are + Wandering till our race is run. + + Speak the hillsides and the waters, + Speak the valleys, plains and groves, + Waving trees and snow-robed mountains, + Speak to him where'er he roves, + To the red men's sons and daughters + Of their joys, their woes and loves. + + By the shore the rocks are ringing + That to you seem wholly dumb, + Ever with the waves are singing, + Winds with songs forever come; + Songs of sorrow for the partings + Death and time make as of yore, + Songs of war and peace and valor, + Red men sang on Whulch's shore. + See! the ashes of our fathers, + Mingling dust beneath our feet, + Common earth to you, the strangers, + Thrills us with a longing sweet. + Fills our pulses rhythmic beat. + At the midnight in your cities + Empty seeming, silent streets + Shall be peopled with the hosts + Of returning warriors' ghosts. + Tho' I shall sink into the dust, + My warning heed; be kind, be just, + Or ghosts shall menace and avenge. + + + + +PART III. + +INDIAN LIFE AND SETTLERS' BEGINNINGS. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +SAVAGE DEEDS OF SAVAGE MEN. + + +At Bean's Point, opposite Alki on Puget Sound, an Indian murdered, at +night, a family of Indians who were camping there. + +The Puyallups and Duwampsh came together in council at Bean's Point, +held a trial and condemned and executed the murderer. Old Duwampsh +Curley was among the members of this native court and likely Sealth and +his counsellors. + +One of the family escaped by wading out into the water where he might +have become very cool, if not entirely cold, if it had not been that +Captain Fay and George Martin, a Swedish sailor, were passing by in +their boat and the Indian begged to be taken in, a request they readily +granted and landed him in a place of safety. + +Again at Bean's Point an Indian was shot by a white man, a Scandinavian; +the charge was a liberal one of buckshot. + +Some white men who went to inquire into the matter followed the +Indian's trail, finding ample evidence that he had climbed the hill back +of the house, where he may have been employed to work, and weak from his +wounds had sat down on a log and then went back to the water; but his +body was never found. It was supposed that the murderer enticed him back +again and when he was dead, weighted and sunk him in the deep, cold +waters of the Sound. + +At one time there was quite a large camp of Indians where now runs +Seneca Street, Seattle, near which was my home. It was my father's +custom to hire the Indians to perform various kinds of hard labor, such +as grubbing stumps, digging ditches, cutting wood, etc. For a while we +employed a tall, strong, fine-looking Indian called Lachuse to cut wood; +through a long summer day he industriously plied the ax and late in the +twilight went down to a pool of water, near an old bridge, to bathe. As +he passed by a clump of bushes, suddenly the flash and report of a gun +shattered the still air and Lachuse fell heavily to the ground with his +broad chest riddled with buckshot. + +There was great excitement in the camp, running and crying of the women +and debate by the men, who soon carried him into the large Indian house. +He was laid down in the middle of the room and the medicine man, finding +him alive, proceeded to suck the wounds while the tamanuse noise went +on. + +A distracted, grey-haired lum-e-i, his mother, came to our house to beg +for a keeler of water, all the time crying, "Mame-loose Lachuse! +Achada!" + +Two of the little girls of our family, sleeping in an old-fashioned +trundle bed, were so frightened at the commotion that they pulled the +covers up over their heads so far that their feet protruded below. + +The medicine man's treatment seems to have been effective, aided by the +tamanuse music, as Lachuse finally recovered. + +The revengeful deed was committed by a Port Washington Indian, in +retaliation for the stealing of his "klootchman" (wife) by an Indian of +the Duwampsh tribe, although it was not Lachuse, this sort of revenge +being in accordance with their heathen custom. + +"Jim Keokuk," an Indian, killed another Indian in the marsh near the gas +works; he struck him on the head with a stone. Jim worked as deck hand +on a steamer for a time, but he in turn was finally murdered by other +Indians, wrapped with chains and thrown overboard, which was afterward +revealed by some of the tribe. + +There were many cases of retaliation, but the Indians were fairly +peaceable until degraded by drink. + +The beginning of hostilities against the white people on the Sound, by +some historians is said to have been the killing of Leander Wallace at +old Fort Nesqually. One of them gives this account: + + "Prior to the Whitman massacre, Owhi and Kamiakin, the great + chiefs of the upper and lower Yakima nations, while on a visit to + Fort Nesqually, had observed to Dr. Tolmie that the Hudson Bay + Company's posts with their white employes were a great + convenience to the natives, but the American immigration had + excited alarm and was the constant theme of hostile conversation + among the interior tribes. The erection in 1848, at Fort + Nesqually, of a stockade and blockhouse had also been the subject + of angry criticism by the visiting northern tribes. So insolent + and defiant had been their conduct that upon one afternoon for + over an hour the officers and men of the post had guns pointed + through the loop-holes at a number of Skawhumpsh Indians, who, + with their weapons ready for assault, had posted themselves under + cover of adjacent stumps and trees. + + "Shortly before the shooting of Wallace, rumors had reached the + fort that the Snoqualmies were coming in force to redress the + alleged cruel treatment of Why-it, the Snoqualmie wife of the + young Nesqually chief, Wyampch, a dissipated son of Lahalet. + + "Dr. Tolmie treated such a pretext as a mere cloak for a + marauding expedition of the Snoqualmies. + + "Sheep shearing had gathered numbers of extra hands, chiefly + Snohomish, who were occupying mat lodges close to the fort, + besides unemployed stragglers and camp followers. + + "On Tuesday, May 1, 1849, about noon, numbers of Indian women and + children fled in great alarm from their lodges and sought refuge + within the fort. A Snoqualmie war party, led by Pat Kanem, + approached from the southwestern end of the American plains. Dr. + Tolmie having posted a party of Kanakas in the northwest bastion + went out to meet them. + + "Tolmie induced Pat Kanem to return with him to the fort, closing + the gate after their entrance." + +The following is said to be the account given by the Hudson Bay +Company's officials: + + "The gate nearest the mat lodges was guarded by a white man and + an Indian servant. While Dr. Tolmie was engaged in attending a + patient, he heard a single shot fired, speedily followed by two + or three others. He hastily rushed to the bastion, whence a + volley was being discharged at a number of retreating Indians who + had made a stand and found cover behind the sheep washing dam of + Segualitschu Creek. Through a loop-hole the bodies of an Indian + and a white man were discernible at a few yards distance from the + north gate where the firing had commenced. + + "He hastened thither and found Wallace breathing his last, with a + full charge of buckshot in his stomach. The dying man was + immediately carried inside of the fort. + + "The dead Indian was a young Skawhumpsh, who had accompanied the + Snoqualmies. + + "The Snohomish workers, as also the stragglers, had been, with + the newly arrived Snoqualmies, in and out of the abandoned + lodges, chatting and exchanging news. A thoughtless act of the + Indian sentry posted at the water gate, in firing into the air, + had occasioned a general rush of the Snohomish, who had been cool + observers of all that had passed outside. + + "Walter Ross, the clerk, came to the gate armed, and seeing + Kussass, a Snoqualmie, pointing his gun at him, fired but missed + him. Kussass then fired at Wallace. Lewis, an American, had a + narrow escape, one ball passing through his vest and trousers and + another grazing his left arm. + + "Quallawowit, as soon as the firing began, shot through the + pickets and wounded Tziass, an Indian, in the muscles of his + shoulder, which soon after occasioned his death. + + "The Snoqualmies as they retreated to the beach killed two Indian + ponies and then hastily departed in their canoes. + + "At the commencement of the shooting, Pat Kanem, guided by + Wyampch, escaped from the fort, a fortunate occurrence, as, upon + his rejoining his party the retreat at once began. + + "When Dr. Tolmie stooped to raise Wallace, and the Snoqualmies + levelled their guns to kill that old and revered friend, an + Indian called 'the Priest' pushed aside the guns, exclaiming + 'Enough mischief has already been done.' + + "The four Indians of the Snoqualmie party whose names were given + by Snohomish informers to Dr. Tolmie, together with Kussass and + Quallawowit, were afterward tried for the murder of Wallace." + +Their names were Whyik, Quallawowit, Kussass, Stahowie, Tatetum and +Quilthlimkyne; the last mentioned was a Duwampsh. + +Eighty blankets were offered for the giving up of these Indians. + +The Snoqualmies came to Steilacoom, where they were to be tried, in war +paint and parade. + +The officials came from far; down the Columbia; up the Cowlitz, and +across to Puget Sound, about two hundred miles in primitive style, by +canoe, oxcart or cayuse. + +The trial occupied two days; on the third day, the two condemned, +Kussass and Quallawowit, were executed. + +One shot Wallace, _two_ Indians were hung; Leschi, a leader in the +subsequent war of 1855, looked on and went away resenting the injustice +of taking two lives for one. Other Indians no doubt felt the same, thus +preparing the way for their deadly opposition to the white race. + +It certainly seems likely that the "pretext" of the Snoqualmies was a +valid one as Wyampch, the young Nesqually chief, was a drunkard, and +Why-it, his Snoqualmie wife, was no doubt treated much as Indian wives +generally in such a case, frequently beaten and kicked into +insensibility. + +The Snoqualmies had been quarreling with the Nesquallies before this and +it is extremely probable that, as was currently reported among old +settlers, the trouble was among the Indians themselves. + +There are two stories also concerning Wallace; first, that he was +outside quietly looking on, which he ought to have known better than to +do; second, that he was warned not to go outside but persisted in going, +boasting that he could settle the difficulty with a club, paying for his +temerity with his life. + +A well known historian has said that the "different tribes had been +successfully treated with, but the Indians had acted treacherously +inasmuch as it was well known that they had long been plotting against +the white race to destroy it. This being true and they having entered +upon a war without cause, however, he (Gov. Stevens) might sympathize +with the restlessness of an inferior race who perceived that destiny was +against them, he nevertheless had high duties toward his own." + +Now all this was true, yet there were other things equally true. Not all +the treachery, not all the revenge, not all the cruelty were on the +side of the "inferior" race. Even all the inferiority was not on one +side. The garbled translation by white interpreters, the lying, deceit, +nameless and numberless impositions by lawless white men must have +aroused and fostered intense resentment. That there were white savages +here we have ample proof. + +When Col. Wright received the conquered Spokane chiefs in council with +some the pipe of peace was smoked. After it was over, Owhi presented +himself and was placed in irons for breaking an agreement with Col. +Wright, who bade him summon his son, Qualchin, on pain of death by +hanging if his son refused to come. + +The next day Qualchin appeared not knowing that the order had been +given, and was seized and hung without trial. Evidently Kamiakin, the +Yakima chief, had good reason to fear the white man's treachery when he +refused to join in the council. + +The same historian before mentioned tells how Col. Wright called +together the Walla Wallas, informed them that he knew that they had +taken part in recent battles and ordered those who had to stand up; +thirty-five promptly rose. Four of these were selected and hung. Now +these Indians fought for home and country and volunteered to be put to +death for the sake of their people, as it is thought by some, those hung +for the murder of Whitman and his companions, did, choosing to do so of +their own free will, not having been the really guilty ones at all. + +Quiemuth, an Indian, after the war, emerged from his hiding place, went +to a white man on Yelm prairie requesting the latter to accompany him to +Olympia that he might give himself up for trial. Several persons went +with him; reached Olympia after midnight, the governor placed him in his +office, locking the door. It was soon known that the Indian was in the +town and several white men got in at the back door of the building. The +guard may have been drowsy or their movements very quiet; a shot was +fired and Quiemuth and the others made a rush for the door where a white +man named Joe Brannan stabbed the Indian fatally, in revenge for the +death of his brother who had been killed by Indians some time before. + +Three of the Indian leaders in Western Washington were assassinated by +white men for revenge. Leschi, the most noted of the hostile chiefs on +the Sound, was betrayed by two of his own people, some have said. + +I have good authority for saying that he gave himself up for fear of a +similar fate. + +He was tried three times before he was finally hung after having been +kept in jail a long time. Evidently there were some obstructionists who +agreed with the following just and truthful statement by Col. G. O. +Haller, a well-known Indian fighter, first published in the Seattle +Post-Intelligencer: + + "The white man's aphorism 'The first blow is half the battle,' is + no secret among Indians, and they practice it upon entering a + war. Indeed, weak nations and Indian tribes, wrought to + desperation by real or fancied grievances, inflict while able to + do so horrible deeds when viewed by civilized and Christ-like + men. War is simply barbarism. And when was war refined and + reduced to rules and regulations that must control the Indian who + fights for all that is dear to him--his native land and the + graves of his sires--who finds the white man's donation claim + spread over his long cultivated potato patch, his hog a + trespasser on his old pasture ground and his old residence turned + into a stable for stock, etc.? + + "Leschi, like many citizens during the struggle for secession, + appealed to his instincts--his attachment to his tribe--his + desire, at the same time to conform to the requirements of the + whites, which to many of his people were repulsive and + incompatible. He decided and struck heavy blows against us with + his warriors. Since then we have learned a lesson. + +[Illustration: A FEW ARTIFACTS OF PUGET SOUND INDIANS] + + "Gen. Lee inflicted on the Union army heavy losses of life and + destruction of property belonging to individuals. When he + surrendered his sword agreeing to return to his home and become a + law-abiding citizen, Gen. Grant protected him and his paroled + army from the vengeance of men who sought to make treason + odious. This was in 1866 and but the repetition of the Indian war + of 1856. + + "Col. Geo. Wright, commanding the department of the Columbia, + displayed such an overwhelming force in the Klickitat country + that it convinced the hostile Indians of the hopelessness of + pursuing war to a successful issue, and when they asked the terms + of peace, Col. Wright directed them to return to their former + homes, be peaceful and obey the orders of the Indian agents sent + by our government to take charge of them, and they would be + protected by the soldiers. + + "The crimes of war cannot be atoned by crimes in cold blood after + the war. Two wrongs do not make a right. + + "Leschi, though shrewd and daring in war, adopted Col. Wright's + directions, dropped hostilities, laid aside his rifle and + repaired to Puget Sound, his home. + + "Like Lee, he was entitled to protection from the officers and + soldiers. But Leschi, on the Sound, feared the enmity of the + whites, and gave himself up to Dr. Tolmie, an old friend, at + Nesqually--not captured by two Indians of his own tribe and + delivered up. Then began a crusade against Leschi for all the + crimes of his people in war. + + "On the testimony of a perjured man, whose testimony was + demonstrated, by a survey of the route claimed by the deponent, + to be a falsehood, he was found guilty by the jury, not of the + offense alleged against him, for it was physically impossible for + Leschi to be at the two points indicated in the time alleged; + hence he was a martyr to the vengeance of unforgiving white men." + +I remember having seen the beautiful pioneer woman spoken of in the +following account first published in a Seattle paper. The Castos were +buried in the old burying ground in a corner next the road we traveled +from our ranch to school. + +This is the article, head-lines and all: + + "John Bonser's Death Recalls an Indian Massacre. + Beautiful Abbie Casto's Fate. + How Death Came Upon Three Pioneers of Squak + Valley--Swift Vengeance on the Murderers. + + "The death of John Bonser, one of the earliest pioneers of + Oregon, at Sauvie's Island, near Portland, recently, recalls one + of the bloodiest tragedies that ever occurred in King County and + one which will go down in history as the greatest example the + pioneers had of the evil effect of giving whisky to the Indians. + The event is memorable for another reason, and that is that the + daughter of John Bonser, wife of William Casto, and probably the + most beautiful woman in the territory, was a victim. + + "'I don't take much stock in the handsome, charming women we read + about,' said C. B. Bagley yesterday, 'but Mrs. Casto, if placed + in Seattle today with face and form as when she came among us in + 1864, would be among the handsomest women in the city, and I + shall never forget the sensation created in our little settlement + when messengers arrived from Squak valley, where the Castos + moved, with the news that Mrs. Casto, her husband and John + Holstead had been killed by Indians, and that a friendly + Klickitat had slain the murderers. + + "The first impression was that there had been an uprising among + the treacherous natives and a force, consisting of nearly all the + able-bodied men in the community, started for the scene of the + massacre. + + "It is a hard matter for the people of metropolitan Seattle to + carry themselves back, figuratively speaking, to 1864, and + imagine the village of that period with its thirty families. + + "The boundaries were limited to a short and narrow line extending + along the water front not farther north than Pike Street. The few + houses were small and unpretentious and the business portion of + the town was confined to Commercial Street, between Main and + Yesler Avenue. + + "At that time and even after the great fire in 1889, Yesler + Avenue was known as Mill Street, the name having originated from + the fact that Yesler's mill was located at its foot. Where the + magnificent Dexter Horton bank building now stands stood a small + wooden structure occupied by Dexter Horton as a store, and where + the National Bank of Commerce building, at the corner of Yesler + Avenue and Commercial Street, stood the mill store of the + Yesler-Denny Company. S. B. Hinds, a name forgotten in commercial + circles, kept store on Commercial Street, between Washington and + Main Streets. Charles Plummer was at the corner of Main and + Commercial, and J. R. Williamson was on the east side of + Commercial Street, a half block north. This comprised the entire + list of stores at that time. The forests were the only source to + which the settlers looked for commercial commodities, and these, + when put in salable shape, were often-times compelled to await + means of transportation to markets. Briefly summed up, spars, + piles, lumber and hop-poles were about all the sources of income. + + "At that time there was no 'blue book,' and, in fact women were + scarce. It is not surprising then that the arrival of William + Casto, a man aged 38 years and a true representative of the + Kentucky colonel type, with his young wife, the daughter of John + Bonser, of Sauvies Island, Columbia River, near Portland, should + have been a memorable occasion. Mrs. Casto was a natural not an + artificial beauty--one of those women to whom all apparel adapts + itself and becomes a part of the wearer. Every movement was + graceful and her face one that an artist would have raved + about--not that dark, imperious beauty that some might expect, + but the exact opposite. Her eyes were large, blue and expressive, + while her complexion, clear as alabaster, was rendered more + attractive by a rosy hue. She was admired by all and fairly + worshipped by her husband. It was one of those rare cases where + disparity in ages did not prevent mutual devotion. + + "In the spring of the year that Casto came to Seattle he took up + a ranch in the heart of Squak valley, where the Tibbetts farm now + lies. Here he built a small house, put in a garden and commenced + clearing. In order to create an income for himself and wife he + opened a small trading post and carried on the manufacture of + hoop poles. The valley was peculiarly adapted to this business, + owing to the dense growth of hazel bush, the very article most + desired. + + "'Casto did most of his trading with San Francisco merchants and + frequently received as much as $1,500 for a single shipment. Such + a business might be laughed at in 1893, but at that time it meant + a great deal to a sparsely settled community where wealth was + largely prospective. It is a notable fact that, even in the early + days when North Seattle was a howling wilderness and large game + ran wild between the town limits and Lake Washington, the + advantages of that body of water were appreciated and a + successful effort was made by Henry L. Yesler, L. V. Wyckoff and + others to connect the one with the other by a wagon road. The + lake terminus was at a point called Fleaburg, now known as the + terminus of the Madison Street cable line. Fleaburg was a small + Indian settlement, and according to tradition derived its name + from innumerable insects that made life miserable for the + inhabitants and visitors. The many miles of travel this cut saved + was greatly appreciated by the Squak settlers, because it was not + only to their advantage in a commercial sense, but also made them + feel that they were much nearer to the mother settlement. Another + short cut was made by means of a foot path starting from Coal + Creek on the eastern shore of the lake. This was so rough that + only persons well acquainted with the country would have taken + advantage of it. While it was not practical, yet it furnished + means of reaching the settlement, in case of necessity, in one + day, whereas the water route took twice as long. + + "'Even at that time the great fear of the settlers, who were few + in number, was the Indians. If a young man in Seattle went + hunting his mother cautioned him to 'be very careful of the + Indians.' Many people now living in or about the city will + remember that in the fall of 1864 there were fears of an Indian + uprising. How the rumors started or on what they were founded + would be hard to state, nevertheless the fact remains that there + was a general feeling of uneasiness. During the summer there had + been trouble on the Snohomish River between white men and + members of the Snohomish tribe. Three of the latter were killed, + and among them a chief. These facts alone would have led a person + well versed in the characteristics of the Washington Indian to + look for trouble of some kind, although to judge from what + direction and in what manner would have been difficult. + + "'Casto at that time had several of the Snohomish Indians working + for him, but the thought of fear never entered his mind. He had + great influence over his workmen and was looked up to by them as + a sort of white 'tyee' or chief. Any one that knew Casto could + not but like him, he was so free-hearted, kind and considerate of + every person he met, whether as a friend and equal or as his + servant. He had one fault, however, which goes hand in hand the + world over with a free heart--he loved liquor and now and then + drank too much. He also got in the habit of giving it to the + Indians in his employ. On several occasions the true Indian + nature, under the influence of stimulants, came out, and it + required all his authority to avoid bloodshed. His neighbors, who + could be numbered on the fingers of both hands, with some to + spare, cautioned him not to give 'a redskin whisky and arouse the + devil,' but he laughed at them, and when they warned him of + treachery, thought they spoke nonsense. He would not believe that + the men whom he treated so kindly and befriended in every + conceivable manner would do him harm under any conditions. He + reasoned that his neighbors did not judge the character of the + native correctly and underestimated his influence. There was no + reason why he should not give his Indians liquor if he so + desired. + + "'He acted on this decision on the afternoon of November 7, 1864, + and then went to his home for supper. The Indians got gloriously + drunk and then commenced to thirst for blood. In the crowd were + two of the Snohomish tribe, bloodthirsty brutes, and still + seeking revenge for the death of their tribesmen and chief on the + Snohomish river the summer previous. Their resolve was made. + Casto's life would atone for that of the chief, his wife and + friend, John Holstead, for the other two. They secretly took + their guns and went to Casto's house. The curtain of the room + wherein all three were seated at the supper table was up, and the + breast of Casto was in plain view of the assassins. There was no + hesitation on the part of the Indians. The first shot crashed + through the window and pierced Casto in a vital spot. He arose to + his feet, staggered and fell upon a lounge. His wife sprang to + his assistance, but the rifle spoke again and she fell to the + floor. The third shot hit Holstead, but not fatally, and the + Indians, determined to complete their bloody work, ran to the + front door. They were met by Holstead, who fought like a demon, + but at length fell, his body stabbed in more than twenty places. + Not content with the slaughter already done, the bloodthirsty + wretches drove their knives into the body of Casto's beautiful + wife in a manner most inhuman. Having finished their bloody work + of revenge they left the house, never for a moment thinking their + lives were in danger. In this particular they made a fatal error. + + "The shots fired had attracted a Klickitat Indian named Aleck to + the scene. As fate had it, he was a true friend to the white man + and held Casto, his employer, in high regard. It took him but a + brief period to comprehend the situation, and he determined to + avenge the death of his master, wife and friend. He concealed + himself, and when the bloody brutes came out of the house he + crept up behind them. One shot was enough to end the earthly + career of one, but the other took to his heels. Aleck followed + him with a hatchet he had drawn from his belt, and, being fleeter + of foot, caught up. Then with one swift blow the skull of the + fleeing Indian was cleft, and as he fell headlong to the ground + Aleck jumped on him, and again and again the bloody hatchet drank + blood until the head that but a few minutes before had human + shape looked like a chipped pumpkin. + + "While this series of bloody deeds was being enacted the few + neighbors became wild with alarm, and, thinking that an Indian + war had broken out, started for Seattle immediately. The band + was made up of a Mr. Bush and family and three or four single men + who had ranches in the valley. + + "They reached Seattle the morning of the 9th and told the news, + stating their fears of an Indian uprising. A party consisting of + all the able-bodied men in the town immediately started for the + scene of the tragedy by the short cut, and arrived there in the + evening. The sight that met their eyes was horrible. In the + bushes was found the body of the Indian who had been shot, and + not far distant were the remains of the other, covered with blood + and dirt mixed. In the house the sight was even more horrible. + Holstead lay in the front room in a pool of clotted blood, his + body literally punctured with knife wounds, and in the adjoining + room, on a sofa, half reclining, was the body of Casto. On the + floor, almost in the middle of the room, was Mrs. Casto, + beautiful even in death, and lying in a pool of blood. + + "The coroner at that time was Josiah Settle, and he, after + looking around and investigating, found that the only witnesses + he had were an old squaw, who claimed to have been an eye witness + to the tragedy, and Aleck, the Klickitat. The inquest was held + immediately, and the testimony agreed in substance with facts + previously stated. The jury then returned the following verdict: + + "'Territory of Washington, County of King, before Josiah Settle, + Coroner. + + "'We, the undersigned jurors summoned to appear before Josiah + Settle, the coroner of King county, at Squak, on the 9th day of + November, 1864, to inquire into the cause of death of William + Casto, Abbie Casto and John Holstead, having been duly sworn + according to law, and having made such inquisition after + inspecting the bodies and hearing the testimony adduced, upon our + oath each and all do say that we find that the deceased were + named William Casto, Abbie Casto and John Holstead; that William + Casto was a native of Kentucky, Abbie Casto was formerly a + resident of Sauvies Island, Columbia county, Ore., and John + Holstead was a native of Wheeling, Va., and that they came to + their deaths on the 7th of November, 1864, in this county, by + knives and pistols in the hands of Indians, the bodies of the + deceased having been found in the house of William Casto, at + Squak, and we further find that we believe John Taylor and + George, his brother, Indians of the Snoqualmie tribe, to have + been the persons by whose hands they came to their deaths.' + + "The bodies were brought to Seattle and buried in what is now + known as the Denny Park, then a cemetery, North Seattle. Since + then they have been removed to the Masonic cemetery. + + "The news of the murder was sent to John Bonser, in Oregon, and + he came to the town at once. For several weeks after the event + the columns of the Seattle _Gazette_ were devoted in part to a + discussion of the question of selling and giving liquor to the + Indians, the general conclusion being that it was not only + against the law but a dangerous practice. + + "Out of the killing by Aleck of the two Snohomish Indians grew a + feud which resulted in the death of Aleck's son. The old man was + the one wanted, but he was too quick with the rifle and they + never got him. He died a few years ago, aged nearly ninety + years." + +So we see that whisky caused the death of six persons in this case. + +The Lower Sound Indians were, if anything, more fierce and wild than +those toward the south. + +George Martin, the Swedish sailor who accompanied Capt. Fay, in 1851, +said that he saw Sklallam Indians dancing a war dance at which there +appeared the head of one of their enemies, which they had roasted; small +pieces of it were touched to their lips, but were not eaten. + +In an early day when Ira W. Utter lived on Salmon Bay, or more properly +_Shilshole_ Bay, he was much troubled by cougars killing his cattle, +calves particularly. Thinking strychnine a good cure he put a dose in +some lights of a beef, placed on a stick with the opposite end thrust in +the ground. "Old Limpy," an Indian, spied the tempting morsel, took it +to his home, roasted and ate the same and went to join his ancestors in +the happy hunting grounds. + +This Indian received his name from a limp occasioned by a gunshot wound +inflicted by Lower Sound Indians on one of their raids. He was just +recovering when the white people settled on Elliott Bay. + +The very mention of these raids must have been terrifying to our +Indians, as we called those who lived on the Upper Sound. On one +occasion as a party of them were digging clams on the eastern shore of +Admiralty Inlet, north of Meadow Point, they were attacked by their +northern enemies, who shot two or three while the rest _klatawaw-ed_ +with all the _hyak_ (hurry) possible and hid themselves. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +PIONEER JOKES AND ANECDOTES. + + +In early days, the preachers came in for some rather severe criticisms, +although the roughest of the frontiersmen had a genuine reverence for +their calling. + +Ministers of the Gospel, as well as others, were obliged to turn the +hand to toil with ax and saw. Now these tools require frequent recourse +to sharpening processes and the minister with ax on shoulder, requesting +the privilege of grinding that useful article on one of the few +grindstones in the settlement occasioned no surprise, but when he +prepared to grind by putting the handle on "wrong side to," gave it a +brisk turn and snapped it off short, the disgust of the owner found vent +in the caustic comment, "Well, if you're such a blame fool as that, I'll +never go to hear you preach in the world!" + +James G. Swan tells of an amusing experience with a Neah Bay Indian +chief, in these words: + + "I had a lively time with old Kobetsi, the war chief, whose name + was Kobetsi-bis, which in the Makah language means frost. I had + been directed by Agent Webster to make a survey of the + reservation as far south as the Tsoess river, where Kobetsi + lived, and claimed exclusive ownership to the cranberry meadows + along the bank of that river. He was then at his summer residence + on Tatoosh Island. The Makah Indians had seen and understood + something of the mariner's compass, but a surveyor's compass was + a riddle to them. + + "A slave of Kobetsi, who had seen me at work on the cranberry + meadows, hurried to Tatoosh Island and reported that I was + working a tamanuse, or magic, by which I could collect all the + cranberries in one pile, and that Peter had sold me the land. + This enraged the old ruffian, and he came up to Neah Bay with + sixteen braves, with their faces painted black, their long hair + tied in a knot on top of their heads with spruce twigs, their + regular war paint, and all whooping and yelling. The old fellow + declared he would have my head. Peter and the others laughed at + him, and I explained to him what I had been about. He was + pacified with me, but on his return to Tatoosh Island he shot the + slave dead for making a fool of his chief." + +The same writer is responsible for this account of a somewhat harsh +practical joke; the time was November, 1859, the place Port Angeles Bay, +in a log cabin where Captain Rufus Holmes resided: + + "Uncle Rufus had a chum, a jolly, fat butcher named Jones, who + lived in Port Townsend, and a great wag. He often visited Uncle + Rufus for a few days' hunt and always took along some grub. On + one occasion he procured an eagle, which he boiled for two days + and then managed to disjoint. When it was cold he carefully + wrapped the pieces in a cabbage leaf and took it to Uncle Rufus + as a wild swan, but somewhat tough. The captain chopped it up + with onions and savory herbs and made a fine soup, of which he + partook heartily, Jones contenting himself with some clam + fritters and fried salmon, remarking that it was his off day on + soup. After dinner the wretched wag informed him that he had been + eating an eagle, and produced the head and claws as proof. This + piece of news operated on Uncle Rufus like an emetic, and after + he had earnestly expressed his gastronomic regrets, Jones asked + with feigned anxiety, 'Did the soup make you sick, Uncle Rufus?' + + "Not to be outdone, the captain made reply, 'No, not the soup, + but the thought I had been eating one of the emblems of my + country.'" + +A young man of lively disposition and consequently popular, was the +victim of an April fool joke in the "auld lang syne." Very fond he was +of playing tricks on others but some of the hapless worms turned and +planned a sweet and neat revenge, well knowing it was hard to get ahead +of the shrewd and witty youth. A "two-bit" piece, which had likely +adorned the neck or ear of an Indian belle, as it had a hole pierced in +it, was nailed securely to the floor of the postoffice in the village of +Seattle, and a group of loungers waited to see the result. Early on the +first, the young man before indicated walked briskly and confidently in. +Observing the coin he stooped airily and essayed to pick it up, +remarking, "It isn't everybody that can pick up two bits so early in the +morning!" "April Fool!" and howls of laughter greeted his failure to +pocket the coin. With burning face he sheepishly called for his mail and +hurried out with the derisive shout of "It isn't everybody that can pick +up two bits so early in the morning, Ha! ha! ha!" ringing in his ears. + +Such fragments of early history as the following are frequently afloat +in the literature of the Sound country: + + "THEY VOTED THEMSELVES GUNS. + + "How Pioneer Legislators Equipped Themselves to Fight the + Indians. + + "If the state legislature should vote to each member of both + houses a first-class rifle, a sensation indeed would be created. + But few are aware that such a precedent has been established by a + legislature of Washington Territory. It has been so long ago, + though, that the incident has almost faded from memory, and there + are but few of the members to relate the circumstances. + + "It was in 1855, when I was a member of the council, that we + passed a law giving each legislator a rifle," said Hon. R. S. + Robinson, a wealthy old pioneer farmer living near Chimacum in + Jefferson County, while going to Port Townsend the other night + on the steamer Rosalie. Being in a reminiscent humor, he told + about the exciting times the pioneers experienced in both dodging + Indians and navigating the waters of Puget Sound in frail canoes. + + "It was just preceding the Indian outbreak of 1855-6, the + settlers were apprehensive of a sudden onslaught," continued Mr. + Robinson. "Gov. Stevens had secured from the war department + several stands of small arms and ammunition, which were intended + for general distribution, and we thought one feasible plan was to + provide each legislator with a rifle and ammunition. Many times + since I have thought of the incident, and how ridiculous it would + seem if our present legislature adopted our course as a + precedent, and armed each member at the state's expense. Things + have changed considerably. In those days guns and ammunition were + perquisites. Now it is stationery, lead pencils and waste + baskets." + +Among other incidents related by a speaker whose subject was "Primitive +Justice," was heard this story at a picnic of the pioneers: + + "An instance in which I was particularly interested being + connected with the administration of the sheriff's office + occurred in what is now Shoshone County, Idaho, but was then a + part of Washington Territory. A man was brought into the town + charged with a crime; he was taken before the justice at once, + but the trial was adjourned because the man was drunk. The + sheriff took the prisoner down the trail, but before he had gone + far the man fell down in a drunken sleep. A wagon bed lay handy + and this was turned over the man and weighted down with stones to + prevent his escape. The next morning he was again brought before + the justice, who, finding him guilty, sentenced him to thirty + days confinement _in the jail from whence he had come_ and to be + fed on bread and water." + +No doubt this was a heavy punishment, especially the water diet. + +An incident occurred in that historic building, the Yesler cook house, +never before published. + +A big, powerful man named Emmick, generally known as "Californy," was +engaged one morning in a game of fisticuffs of more or less seriousness, +when Bill Carr, a small man, stepped up and struck Emmick, who was too +busy with his opponent just then to pay any attention to the impertinent +meddler. Nevertheless he bided his time, although "Bill" made himself +quite scarce and was nowhere to be seen when "Californy's" bulky form +cast a shadow on the sawdust. After a while, however, he grew more +confident and returned to a favorite position in front of the fire in +the old cook house. He was just comfortably settled when in came +"Californy," who pounced on him like a wildcat on a rabbit, stood him on +his head and holding him by the heels "chucked" him up and down like a +dasher on an old-fashioned churn, until Carr was much subdued, then left +him to such reflections as were possible to an all but cracked cranium. +It is safe to say he did not soon again meddle with strife. + +This mode of punishment offers tempting possibilities in cases where the +self-conceit of small people is offensively thrust upon their superiors. + +The village of Seattle crept up the hill from the shore of Elliott Bay, +by the laborious removal of the heavy forest, cutting, burning and +grubbing of trees and stumps, grading and building of neat residences. + +In the clearing of a certain piece of property between Fourth and Fifth +streets, on Columbia, Seattle, now in the heart of the city, three +pioneers participated in a somewhat unique experience. One of them, the +irrepressible "Gard" or Gardner Kellogg, now well known as the very +popular chief of the fire department of Seattle, has often told the +story, which runs somewhat like this: + +Mr. and Mrs. Gardner Kellogg were dining on a Sunday, with the latter's +sister and her husband, Mr. and Mrs. O. C. Shorey, as they often did, at +their home on Third Avenue. It was a cold, drizzly day, but in spite of +that "Gard" and Mr. Shorey walked out to the edge of the clearing, where +the dense young fir trees still held the ground, and the former was +soon pushing up a stump fire on his lots. + +As he poked the fire a bright thought occurred to him and he observed to +his companion that he believed it "would save a lot of hard work, +digging out the roots, to bring up that old shell and put it under the +stump." + +The "old shell" was one that had been thrown from the sloop-of-war +"Decatur" during the Indian war, and had buried itself in the earth +without exploding. In excavating for the Kellogg's wood house it had +been unearthed. + +Mr. Shorey thought it might not be safe if some one should pass by: "O, +nobody will come out this way this miserable day; it may not go off +anyway," was the answer. + +So the shell was brought up and they dug under the roots of the stump, +put it in and returned to the Shorey residence. + +When they told what they had done, it was, agreed that it was extremely +unlikely that anyone would take a pleasure walk in that direction on so +gloomy a day. + +Meanwhile a worthy citizen of the little burgh had gone roaming in +search of his stray cow. As before stated, it was a chilly, damp day, +and the man who was looking for his cow, Mr. Dexter Horton, for it was +none other than he, seeing the fire, was moved to comfort himself with +its genial warmth. + +He advanced toward it and spread his hands benignantly as though +blessing the man that invented fire, rubbed his palms together in a mute +ecstasy of mellow satisfaction and then reversed his position, lifted +his coat-tails and set his feet wide apart, even as a man doth at his +own peaceful hearthstone. The radiant energy had not time to reach the +marrow when a terrific explosion took place. It threw earth, roots and +splinters, firebrands and coals, yards away, hurled the whilom +fire-worshiper a considerable distance, cautioned him with a piece of +hot iron that just missed his face, covered him with the debris, +mystified and stupefied him, but fortunately did not inflict any +permanent injury. + +As he recovered the use of his faculties the idea gained upon him that +it was a mean, low-down trick anyhow to blow up stumps that way. He was +very much disgusted and refused very naturally to see anything funny +about it; but as time passed by and he recovered from the shock, the +ludicrous side appeared and he was content to let it be regarded as a +pioneer pleasantry. + +The innocent perpetrator of this amazing joke has no doubt laughed long +and loud many times as he has pictured to himself the vast astonishment +of his fellow townsman, and tells the story often, with the keenest +relish, to appreciative listeners. + +Yes, to be blown up by an old bomb-shell on a quiet Sunday afternoon, +while resting beside a benevolent looking stump-fire that not even +remotely suggested warlike demonstrations, was rather tough. + + +HOW BEAN'S POINT WAS NAMED. + +Opposite Alki Point was a fine prairie of about forty acres to which C. +C. Terry at first laid claim. Some of the earliest settlers of the first +mentioned locality crossed the water, taking their cattle, ploughed and +planted potatoes on this prairie. Terry subsequently settled elsewhere +and the place was settled on by a large man of about sixty years, a Nova +Scotian, it was supposed, who bore the name of _Bean_. This lonely +settler was a sort of spiritualist; in Fort Decatur, while one of a +group around a stove, he leaned his arm on the wall and when a natural +tremor resulted, insisted that the "spirits" did it. After the war he +returned to his cabin and while in his bed, probably asleep, was shot +and killed by an Indian. Since then the place has been known as Bean's +Point. + +Dr. H. A. Smith, the happiest story-teller of pioneer days, relates in +his "Early Reminiscences" how "Dick Atkins played the dickens with poor +old Beaty's appetite for cheese" in this engaging manner: + + "One day when he (Dick Atkins) was merchandising on Commercial + Street, Seattle, as successor to Horton & Denny, he laid a piece + of cheese on the stove to fry for his dinner. A dozen loafers + were around the stove and among them Mr. Beaty, remarkable + principally for his appetite, big feet and good nature. And he + on this occasion good-naturedly took the cheese from the stove + and cooled and swallowed it without waiting to say grace, while + Dick was in the back room, waiting on a customer. When the cheese + was fairly out of sight, Beaty grew uneasy and skedadled up the + street. When Atkins returned and found his cheese missing, and + was told what became of it, he rushed to the door just in time to + catch sight of Beaty's coat-tail going into Dr. Williamson's + store. Without returning for his coat or hat, off he darted at + full speed. Beaty had fairly got seated, when Dick stood before + him and fairly screamed: + + "'Did you eat that cheese?' + + "'Wal--yes--but I didn't think you'd care much.' + + "'Care! Care! good thunder, no! but I thought _you_ might care, + as I had just put a DOUBLE DOSE OF ARSENIC in it to kill rats.' + + "'Don't say!' exclaimed Beaty, jumping to his feet, 'thought it + tasted mighty queer; what can I do?' + + "'Come right along with me; there is only one thing that can save + you.' + + "And down the street they flew as fast as their feet would carry + them. As soon as they had arrived at the store, Atkins drew off a + pint of rancid fish-oil and handed it to Beaty saying, 'Swallow + it quick! Your life depends upon it!' + + "Poor Beaty was too badly frightened to hesitate, and after a few + gags, pauses and wry faces he handed back the cup, drained to the + bitter dregs. 'There now,' said Dick, 'go home and to bed, and if + you are alive in the morning come around and report yourself.' + + "After he was gone one of the spectators asked if the cheese was + really poisoned. + + "'No,' replied Dick, 'and I intended telling the gormand it was + not, but when I saw that look of gratitude come into his face as + he handed back the empty cup, my heart failed me, and my revenge + became my defeat.' 'No, gentlemen, Beaty is decidedly ahead in + this little game. I never before was beaten at a game of cold + bluff after having stacked the cards myself. I beg you to keep + the matter quiet, gentlemen.' But it was always hard for a dozen + men to keep a secret." + +These same "Early Reminiscences" contain many a merry tale, some "thrice +told" to the writer of this work, of the people who were familiar +figures on the streets of Seattle and other settlements, in the long +ago, among them two of the Rev. J. F. DeVore, with whom I was +acquainted. + + "When he lived in Steilacoom, at a time when that city was even + smaller than it is now, a certain would-be bully declared, with + an oath, that if it were not for the respect he had for the + 'cloth,' he would let daylight through his portly ministerial + carcass. Thereupon the 'cloth' was instantly stripped off and + dashed upon the ground, accompanied with the remark, 'The "cloth" + never stands in the way of a good cause. I am in a condition, now + sir, to be enlightened.' But instead of attempting to shed any + light into this luminary of the pulpit, whose eyes fairly blazed + with a light not altogether of this world, the blustering bully + lit out down the street at the top of his speed." + +The following has a perennial freshness, although I have heard it a +number of times: + + "When Olympia was a struggling village and much in need of a + church, this portly, industrious man of many talents took upon + himself the not overly pleasant task of raising subscriptions for + the enterprise, and in his rounds called on Mr. Crosby, owner of + the sawmill at Tumwater, and asked how much lumber he would + contribute to the church. Mr. Crosby eyed the 'cloth' a moment + and sarcastically replied, 'As much as _you_, sir, will raft and + take away between this and sundown.' 'Show me the pile!' was the + unexpected rejoinder. Then laying off his coat and beaver tile he + waded in with an alacrity that fairly made Mr. Crosby's hair + bristle. All day, without stopping a moment, even for dinner, his + tall, stalwart form bent under large loads of shingles, sheeting, + siding, scantling, studding and lath, and even large sills and + plates were rolled and tumbled into the bay with the agility of + a giant, and before sundown Mr. Crosby had the proud + satisfaction of seeing the 'cloth' triumphantly poling a raft + toward Olympia containing lumber enough for a handsome church and + a splendid parsonage besides. + + "Mr. Crosby was heard to say a few days afterward that no ten men + in his employ could, or would, have done that day's work. Meeting + the divine shortly afterwards, Mr. Crosby said, 'Well, parson, + you can handle more lumber between sunrise and dark than any man + I ever saw.' + + "'Oh,' said the parson, 'I was working that day for my Maker.' + + "Moral: Never trust pioneer preachers with your lumber pile, + simply because they wear broadcloth coats, for most of them know + how to take them off, and then they can work as well as pray." + +This conjuror with the pen has called up another well known personality +of the earliest times in the following sketch and anecdote: + + "Dr. Maynard was of medium size. He had blue eyes, a square + forehead, a strong face and straight black hair, when worn short, + but when worn long, as it was when whitened by the snows of many + winters, it was quite curly and fell in ringlets over his + shoulders. Add to this description, a long, gray beard, and you + will see him as he appeared on our streets when on his last legs. + When 'half seas over,' he overflowed with generous impulses, + would give away anything within reach and was full of extravagant + promises, many of which were out of his power to fulfill. He once + owned Alki Point and sometimes would move there in order to + 'reform,' but seldom remained longer than a month or six weeks. + Alki Point was covered with huge logs and stumps, excepting a + little cleared ground near the bay where the house stood. But + when the doctor saw it through his telescopic wine-glasses it was + transformed into a beautiful farm with broad meadows covered with + lowing herds and prancing steeds whose 'necks were clothed with + thunder.' + + "One day, in the fall of 1860, while viewing his farm through his + favorite glasses, David Stanley, the venerable Salmon Bay hermit, + happened along, when Maynard gave him a glowing description of + his Alki Point farm as he himself beheld it just then, and wound + up by proposing to take the old man in partnership, and offered + him half of the fruit and farm stock for simply looking after it + and keeping the fences in repair. The temptation to gain sudden + riches was too much for even his unworldliness of mind, and he + made no delay in embarking for Alki Point with all his worldly + effects. His object in living alone, was, he said, to comply with + the injunction to keep one's self 'unspotted from the world,' but + the doctor assured him that the change would not seriously + interfere with his meditations, inasmuch as few people landed at + Alki Point, notwithstanding its many attractions. + + "The day of his departure for the Mecca of all his earthly hopes + turned out very stormy. It was after dark before he reached the + point, and on trying to land his boat filled with water. He lost + many of his fowls and came near losing his life in the boiling + surf. After getting himself and his 'traps' ashore, he built a + fire, dried his blankets, fried some bacon, ate a hearty supper + and turned in. + + "The excitement of the day, however, prevented sleep, and he got + up and sat by the fire till morning. As soon as it was light he + strolled out to look at the stock, but to his surprise, only a + bewildering maze of logs and interminable stumps were to be seen + where he expected to behold broad fields and green pastures. The + only thing he could find resembling stock were--to use his own + language--'an old white horse, stiff in all his joints and blind + in one eye, and a little, runty, scrubby, ornery, steer calf.' + After wandering about over and under logs till noon, he concluded + he had missed the doctor's farm, and returned to the beach with + the intention of pulling further around, but seeing some men in a + boat a short distance from shore, he hailed it and inquired for + Dr. Maynard's farm. Charley Plummer was one of the party and he + told the old man that he had the honor of being already upon it. + Stanley explained his object in being there, and after a fit of + rib-breaking laughter, Mr. Plummer advised him to return to + Salmon Bay as soon as possible, which he did the very next day. + + "The old man had a keen sense of the ludicrous, and joined + heartily in the laugh, saying he had been taken in a great many + times in his life, but never in so laughable manner as on this + occasion. A few days afterward as Charley Plummer was sitting in + Dr. Maynard's office the hermit put in an appearance. 'Good + afternoon, doctor,' said he, with an air of profound respect. + 'Why, how do you do, Uncle Stanley, glad to see you--how does the + poultry ranch prosper? By the way, have you moved to Alki Point + yet?' 'O, yes, I took my traps, poultry and all, over there + several days ago, and had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Plummer + there. Did he mention the circumstances?' 'No,' said the doctor, + 'he just came in. How did you find things?' + + "'To tell the truth, doctor, I couldn't rest until I could see + you and thank you from the bottom of my heart for the inestimable + blessing you have conferred upon me.' + + "At this demonstration of satisfaction uttered with an air of + profound gratitude, the doctor leaned back complacently in his + easy chair, while an expression of benignant self-approval + illuminated his benevolent face. + + "'Yes,' continued he, 'I can never be sufficiently grateful for + the benefit your generosity has already been to me individually, + besides it bids fair to prove a signal triumph for religion and + morality, and it may turn out to be a priceless contribution to + science.' + + "At the utterance of this unexpected 'rhapsody' the doctor turned + with unalloyed delight, and seeing that the old man hesitated, he + encouraged him by saying, 'Go on, Uncle, go right along and tell + all about it, although I can't understand exactly how it can + prove a triumph for religion or science.' + + "'Well,' continued the old man with solemn countenance, 'my + orthodoxy has been a little shaky of late, in fact I have + seriously doubted the heavenly origin of various forms of + inspiration, but when I got to Alki Point and looked around my + skepticism fell from my eyes as did the scales from the eyes of + Saul of old.' + + "'Yes,' interrupted the doctor, 'the scenery over there is really + grand and I have often felt devotional myself while contemplating + the grand mountain scenery----' + + "'Scenery? Well--yes, I suppose there is some scenery scattered + around over there, but it isn't that.' + + "'No, well what was it, uncle?' + + "'Why, sir, as I was saying, when I get a chance to fairly look + around I was thoroughly satisfied that nothing but a miracle, in + fact, nothing short of the ingenuity and power of the Almighty + could possibly have piled up so many logs and stumps to the acre + as I found on your _farm_.' + + "Here the doctor's face perceptibly lengthened and a very dry + laugh, a sort of hysterical cross between a chuckle and a + suppressed oath, escaped him, but before he had time to speak the + old man went on: + + "'So much for the triumph of religion, but science, sir, will be + under much weightier obligations to us when you and I succeed in + making an honest living from the progeny of an old blind horse + and a little, miserable runty steer calf.' + + "This was too much for the doctor and springing to his feet he + fairly shouted, 'There, there, old man, not another word! come + right along and I will stand treat for the whole town and we will + never mention Alki Point again.' + + "'No, thank you,' said the hermit, dryly, 'I never indulge, and + since you have been the means of my conversion you ought to be + the last man in the world to lead me into temptation, besides our + income from the blind horse and runty steer calf will hardly + justify such extravagance.' + + "Hat and cane in hand he got as far as the door, when Maynard + called to him saying, 'Look here, old man, I hope you're not + offended, and if you will say nothing about this little matter, + I'll doctor you the rest of your life for nothing.' + + "After scratching his head a moment the hermit looked up and + naively answered, 'No, I'm not mad, only astonished, and as for + your free medicine, if it is all as bitter as the free dose you + have just given me, I don't want any more of it,' and he bowed + himself out and was soon lost to the doctor's longing gaze. With + eyes still fixed on the door he exclaimed, 'Blast my head if I + thought the old crackling had so much dry humor in him. Come, + Charley, let's have something to brave our nerves.'" + +Among the unfortunate victims of the drink habit in an early day was +poor old Tom Jones. Nature had endowed him with a splendid physique, but +he wrecked himself, traveling downward, until he barely lived from hand +to mouth. He made a house on the old Conkling place, up the bay toward +the Duwampsh River, his tarrying place. Having been absent from his +customary haunts for a considerable time, it was reported that he was +dead. In the village of Seattle, some marauder had been robbing +henroosts and Tom Jones was accused of being the guilty party. +Grandfather John Denny told one of his characteristic stories about +being awakened by a great commotion in his henhouse, the lusty cocks +crowing "Tom Jo-o-o-ones is dead! Tom Jo-o-o-ones is dead!" rejoicing +greatly that they were henceforth safe. + +D. T. Denny gathered up seven men and went to investigate the truth of +the report of his demise. They found him rolled up in his blankets, in +his bunk, not dead but helplessly sick. When they told him what they had +come for--to hold an inquest over his dead body, the tears rolled down +his withered face. They had him moved nearer town and cared for, but he +finally went the way of all the earth. + +Another of the army of the wretched was having an attack of the "devil's +trimmings," as Grandfather John Denny called them, in front of a saloon +one day and a group stood around waiting for him to "come to"; upon his +showing signs of returning consciousness, _all but one_ filed into the +saloon to get a nerve bracer. D. T. Denny, who relates the incident, +turned away, he being the only temperance man in the group. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +TRAILS OF COMMERCE. + + +Samuel L. Simpson wrote this sympathetic poem concerning the old Hudson +Bay Company's steamer Beaver, the first steam vessel on the North +Pacific Coast. She came out from London in 1836 and is well remembered +by Puget Sound pioneers. In 1889 she went on the rocks in Burrard Inlet, +British Columbia. + + + THE BEAVER'S REQUIEM. + + "Forlorn in the lonesome North she lies, + That never again will course the sea, + All heedless of calm or stormy skies, + Or the rocks to windward or a-lee; + For her day is done + And her last port won + Let the wild, sad waves her minstrel be. + + "She will roam no more on the ocean trails, + Where her floating scarf of black was seen + Like a challenge proud to the shrieking gales + By the mighty shores of evergreen; + For she lies at rest + With a pulseless breast + In the rough sea's clasp and all serene. + + "How the world has changed since she kissed the tide + Of the storied Thames in the Georgian reign, + And was pledged with wine as the bonny bride + Of the West's isle-gemmed barbaric main-- + With a dauntless form + That could breast the storm + As she wove the magic commercial chain. + + "For Science has gemmed her brow with stars + From many and many a mystic field, + And the nations have stood in crimsoned wars + And thrones have fallen and empires reeled + Since she sailed that day + From the Thames away + Under God's blue sky and St. George's shield. + + "And the world to which, as a pioneer, + She first came trailing her plume of smoke, + Is beyond the dreams of the clearest seer + That ever in lofty symbols spoke-- + In the arts of peace, + In all life's increase, + And all the gold-browed stress invoke. + + "A part of this was a work of hers, + In a daring life of fifty years; + But the sea-gulls now are her worshipers, + Wheeling with cries more sad than tears, + Where she lies alone + And the surges moan-- + And slowly the north sky glooms and clears. + + "And may we not think when the pale mists glide, + Like the sheeted dead by that rocky shore, + That we hear in the rising, rolling tide + The call of the captain's ring once more? + And it well might be, + So forlorn is she, + Where the weird winds sigh and wan birds soar." + +The development of the most easily reached natural resources was +necessarily first. + +The timber and fisheries were a boundless source of wealth in evidence. + +As early as 1847, a sawmill run with power afforded by the falls of the +Des Chutes at Tumwater, furnished lumber to settlers as a means of +profit. + +The first cargo was taken by the brig _Orbit_ in 1850, to San Francisco, +she being the first American merchant vessel in the carrying trade of +Puget Sound. The brig _George Emory_ followed suit; each carried a +return cargo of goods for trade with the settlers and Indians. + +At first the forest-fallers had no oxen to drag the timbers, after they +were hewn, to the water's edge, but rolled and hauled them by hand as +far as practicable. It was in this manner that the brig _Leonesa_ was +loaded with piles at Alki in the winter of 1851-2, by the Dennys, Terry, +Low, Boren and Bell. + +Lee Terry brought a yoke of oxen to complete the work of loading, from +Puyallup, on the beach, as there was no road through the heavy forest. + +Several ships were loaded at Port Townsend, where the possession of +three yoke of oxen gave them a decided advantage. + +One ship, the _G. W. Kendall_, was sent from San Francisco to Puget +Sound for ice. It is needless to say the captain did not get a cargo of +that luxury; he reported that water did not freeze in Puget Sound and +consoled the owner of the ship by returning with a valuable cargo of +piles. + +The cutting of logs to build houses and the grubbing of stumps to clear +the land for gardens alternated with the cutting of piles. In the +clearing of land, the Indians proved a great assistance; far from being +lazy many of them were hard workers and would dig and delve day after +day to remove the immense stumps of cedar and fir left after cutting the +great trees. The settlers burned many by piling heaps of logs and brush +on them, others by boring holes far into the wood and setting fire, +while some were rent by charges of powder when it could be afforded. + +The clearing of land in this heavily timbered country was an item of +large expense if hired, otherwise of much arduous toil for the owner. +The women and children often helped to pile brush and set fires and many +a merry party turned out at night to "chunk up" the blazing heaps; after +nightfall, their fire-lit figure flitting hither and yon against the +purple darkness, suggested well-intentioned witches. + +Cutting down the tall trees, from two hundred fifty to four hundred +fifty feet, required considerable care and skill. Sometimes we felt the +pathos of it all, when a huge giant, the dignified product of patient +centuries of growth, fell crashing, groaning to the earth. This side of +the subject, is presented in a poem "The Lone Fir Tree," not included in +this volume. + +When finally the small patches of land were cleared, planted and tended, +the returns were astonishing, such marvelous vegetables, small fruits +and flowers, abundant and luxuriant, rewarded the toiler. Nature +herself, by her heaps of vegetation, had foreshown the immense +productiveness of the soil. + +In the river valleys were quite extensive prairies, which afforded +superior stock range, but the main dependence of the people was in the +timber. + +In 1852 H. L. Yesler came, who built the first steam sawmill on Puget +Sound, at Seattle. Other mills sprang up at Port Ludlow, Port Gamble, +Port Madison and Port Blakely, making the names of Meigs, Pope, Talbot, +Keller, Renton, Walker, Blinn and others, great in the annals of +sawmilling on Puget Sound. + +This very interesting account concerning Yesler's sawmill and those who +worked in it in the early days was first published in a Seattle paper +many years ago: + + "The other day some of Parke's men at work on the foundation of + the new Union Block on Front, corner of Columbia Street, delving + among ancient fragments of piles, stranded logs and other debris + of sea-wreck, long buried at that part of the waterfront, found + at the bottom of an excavation they were making, a mass of + knotted iron, corroded, attenuated and salt-eaten, which on being + drawn out proved to be a couple of ancient boom-chains. + + "The scribe, thinking he might trace something of the history of + these ancient relics, hunted up Mr. Yesler, whom, after + considerable exploration through the mazes of his wilderness on + Third and Jefferson Streets, he found, hose in hand, watering a + line of lilies, hollyhocks, penstemons, ageratums, roses, et al. + + "The subject of the interview being stated, Mr. Yesler proceeded + to relate: 'Yes, after I got my mill started in 1853, the first + lot of logs were furnished by Dr. Maynard. He came to me and said + he wanted to clear up a piece on the spit, where he wanted to lay + out and sell some town lots. It was somewhere about where the New + England and Arlington now stand. The location of the old mill is + now an indeterminate spot, somewhere back of Z. C. Miles' + hardware store. The spot where the old cookhouse stood is in the + intersection of Mill and Commercial Streets, between the Colman + Block and Gard. Kellogg's drug store. Hillory Butler and Bill + Gilliam had the contract from Maynard, and they brought the logs + to the mill by hand--rolled or carried them in with handspikes. I + warrant you it was harder work than Hillory or Bill has done for + many a day since. Afterwards, Judge Phillips, who went into + partnership with Dexter Horton in the store, got out logs for me + somewhere up the bay. + + "'During the first five years after my mill was started, cattle + teams for logging were but few on the Sound, and there were no + steamboats for towing rafts until 1858. Capt. John S. Hill's + "_Ranger No. 2_," which he brought up from San Francisco, was the + first of the kind, and George A. Meigs' little tug _Resolute_, + which blew up with Capt. Johnny Guindon and his crew in 1861, + came on about the same time. A great deal of the earliest logging + on the Sound was done exclusively by hand, the logs being thrown + into the water by handspikes and towed to the mill on the tide by + skiffs. + + "'In 1853 Hillory Butler took a contract to get me out logs at + Smith's Cove. George F. Frye was his teamster. In the fall of + 1854 and spring and summer of 1855, Edward Hanford and John C. + Holgate logged for me on their claims, south of the townsite + toward the head of the bay. T. D. Hinckley was their teamster, + also Jack Harvey. On one occasion, when bringing in a raft to the + mill, John lost a diary which he was keeping and I picked it up + on the beach. The last entry it contained read: "June 5, 1855. + Started with a raft for Yesler's mill. Fell off into the water." + I remember I wrote right after "and drowned," and returned the + book. I don't know how soon afterward John learned from his own + book of his death by drowning. + + "'The Indian war breaking out in the fall of '55 put a stop to + their logging operations, as of all the rest. + + "'The Indians killed or drove off all the cattle hereabouts and + burned the dwellings of Hanford, Holgate and Bell on the borders + of the town, besides destroying much other property throughout + the country. + + "'The logging outfits in those days were of the most primitive + and meager description. Rafts were fastened together by ropes or + light boom-chains. Supplies of hardware and other necessaries + were brought up from San Francisco by the lumber vessels on their + return trips as ordered by the loggers. I remember on one + occasion Edmund Carr, John A. Strickler, F. McNatt and John Ross + lost the product of a season's labor by their raft getting away + from them and going to pieces while in transit between the mill + and the head of the bay. My booming place was on the north side + of the mill along the beach where now the foundations are going + up for the Toklas & Singerman, Gasch, Melhorn and Lewis brick + block. There being no sufficient breakwater thereabouts in those + times, I used often to lose a great many logs as well as + boom-chains and things by the rafts being broken up by storms. + + "'My mill in the pioneer times before the Indian war furnished + the chief resource of the early citizens of the place for a + subsistence. + + "'When there were not enough white men to be had for operating + the mill, I employed Indians and trained them to do the work. + George Frye was my sawyer up to the time he took charge of the + _John B. Libby_ on the Whatcom route. My engineers at different + times were T. D. Hinckley, L. V. Wyckoff, John T. Moss and + Douglass. Arthur A. Denny was screw-tender in the mill for quite + a while; D. T. Denny worked at drawing in the logs. Nearly all + the prominent old settlers at some time or other were employed in + connection with the mill in some capacity, either at logging or + as mill hands. I loaded some lumber for China and other foreign + ports, as well as San Francisco.'" + +The primitive methods, crude appliances and arduous toil in the early +sawmills have given place to palaces of modern mechanical contrivance +it would require a volume to describe, of enormous output, loading +hundreds of vessels for unnumbered foreign ports, and putting in +circulation millions of dollars. + +As a forcible contrast to Mr. Yesler's reminiscence, this specimen is +given of modern milling, entitled "Sawing Up a Forest," representing the +business of but one of the great mills in later days (1896) at work on +Puget Sound: + + "The best evidence of the revival of the lumber trade of the + Sound, is to be found at the great Blakeley mill, where four + hundred thousand feet of lumber is being turned out every + twenty-four hours, and the harbor is crowded with ships destined + for almost all parts of the world. + + "One of the mill officials said, 'We are at present doing a large + business with South American and Australian ports, and expect + with proper attention to secure the South African trade, which, + if successful, will be a big thing. We have the finest lumber in + the world, and there is no reason why we should not be doing five + times the business that is being done on the Sound. Why, there is + some first quality and some selected Norway lumber out there on + the wharf, and it does not even compare with our second quality + lumber.' + + "The company has at present (1896) 350 men employed and between + $15,000.00 and $20,000.00 in wages is paid out every month. + + "The following vessels are now loading or are loaded and ready to + sail: + + "Bark Columbia, for San Francisco, 700,000 feet; ship Aristomene, + for Valparaiso, 1,450,000 feet; ship Earl Burgess, for Amsterdam, + 1,250,000 feet; bark Mercury, for San Francisco, 1,000,000 feet; + ship Corolla, for Valparaiso, 1,000,000 feet; barkentine Katie + Flickinger, for Fiji Islands, 550,000 feet; bark Matilda, for + Honolulu, 650,000 feet; bark E. Ramilla, for Valparaiso, 700,000 + feet; ship Beechbank, for Valparaiso, 2,000,000 feet. + + "To load next week: + + "Barkentine George C. Perkins, for Sidney, N. S. W., 550,000 + feet; bark Guinevere, for Valparaiso, 850,000 feet. + + "Those to arrive within the next two weeks: + + "Bark Antoinette, for Valparaiso, 900,000 feet; barkentine J. L. + Stanford, for Melbourne, 1,200,000 feet; ship Saga, for + Valparaiso, 1,200,000 feet; bark George F. Manson, for Shanghai, + China, 950,000 feet; ship Harvester, for South Africa, 1,000,000 + feet." + +Shingle making was a prominent early industry. The process was slow, +done entirely by hand, in vivid contrast with the great facility and +productiveness of the modern shingle mills of this region; in +consequence of the slowness of manufacture they formerly brought a much +higher price. It was an ideal occupation at that time. After the mammoth +cedars were felled, sawn and rived asunder, the shingle-maker sat in the +midst of the opening in the great forest, towering walls of green on all +sides, with the blue sky overhead and fragrant wood spread all around, +from which he shaped the thin, flat pieces by shaving them with a +drawing knife. + +Cutting and hewing spars to load ships for foreign markets began before +1856. + +As recorded in a San Francisco paper: + + "In 1855, the bark Anadyr sailed from Utsalady on Puget Sound, + with a cargo of spars for the French navy yard at Brest. In 1857 + the same ship took a load from the same place to an English navy + yard. + + "To China, Spain, Mauritius and many other places, went the + tough, enduring, flexible fir tree of Puget Sound. The severe + test applied have proven the Douglas fir to be without an equal + in the making of masts and spars. + + "In later days the Fram, of Arctic fame, was built of Puget Sound + fir." + +The discovery and opening of the coal mines near Seattle marks an epoch +in the commerce of the Northwest. + +As early as 1859 coal was found and mined on a small scale east of +Seattle. + +The first company, formed in 1866-7, was composed of old and well-known +citizens: D. Bagley, G. F. Whitworth and Selucius Garfield, who was +called the "silver-tongued orator." Others joined in the enterprise of +developing the mines, which were found to be extensive and valuable. +Legislation favored them and transportation facilities grew. + +The names of McGilvra, Yesler, Denny and Robinson were prominent in the +work. Tramways, chutes, inclines, tugboats, barges, coalcars and +locomotives brought out the coal to deep water on the Sound, across +Lakes Washington and Union, and three pieces of railroad. A long trestle +at the foot of Pike Street, Seattle, at which the ship "Belle Isle," +among others, often loaded, fell in, demolished by the work of the +teredo. + +The writer remembers two startling trips up the incline, nine hundred +feet long, on the east side of Lake Washington, in an empty coal car, +the second time duly warned by the operatives that the day before a car +load of furniture had been "let go" over the incline and smashed to +kindlingwood long before it reached the bottom. The trips were made +amidst an oppressive silence and were never repeated. + +The combined coal fields of Washington cover an area of one thousand six +hundred fifty square miles. Since the earliest developments great +strides have been made and a large number of coal mines are operated, +such as the Black Diamond, Gilman, Franklin, Wilkeson, the U. S. +government standard, Carbonado, Roslyn, etc., with a host of underground +workers and huge steam colliers to carry an immense output. + +The carrying of the first telegraph line through the dense forest was +another step forward. Often the forest trees were pressed into service +and insulators became the strange ornaments of the monarchs of the +trackless wilderness. + +Pioneer surveyors, of whom A. A. Denny was one, journalists, lawyers and +other professional men, with the craftsmen, carpenters who helped to +repair the Decatur and build the fort, masons who helped to build the +old University of Washington, and other industrious workers brought to +mind might each and every one furnish a volume of unique and +interesting reminiscence. + +The women pioneers certainly demand a work devoted to them alone. + +Simultaneously with the commercial and political development, the +educational and religious took place. The children of the pioneers were +early gathered in schools and the parents preceded the teachers or +supplemented their efforts with great earnestness. Books, papers and +magazines were bountifully provided and both children and grown people +read with avidity. For many years the mails came slowly, but when the +brimming bags were emptied, the contents were eagerly seized upon, and +being almost altogether eastern periodical literature, the children +narrowly escaped acquiring the mental squint which O. W. Holmes speaks +of having affected the youth of the East from the perusal of English +literature. + +The pioneer mail service was one of hardship and danger. The first mail +overland in the Sound region was carried by A. B. Rabbeson in 1851, and +could not have been voluminous, as it was transported in his pockets +while he rode horseback. + +A well known mail carrier of early days was Nes Jacob Ohm or "Dutch +Ned," as every one called him. He, with his yellow dog and sallow +cayuse, was regarded as an indispensable institution. All three stood +the test of travel on the trail for many years. The yellow canine had +quite a reputation as a panther dog, and no doubt was a needed +protection in the dark wild forest, but he has long since gone where the +good dogs go and the cayuse probably likewise. + +"Ned" was somewhat eccentric though a faithful servant of the public. In +common with other forerunners of civilization he was a little +superstitious. + +One winter night, grown weary of drowsing by his bright, warm fireplace +in his little cabin, he began to walk back and forth in an absent-minded +way, when suddenly his hair fairly stood on end; there were two stealthy +shadows following him every where he turned. In what state of mind he +passed the remainder of the night is unknown, but soon after he related +the incident to his friends evincing much anxiety as to what it might +signify. Probably he had two lights burning in different parts of the +room or sufficiently bright separate flames in the fireplace. + +Doubtless it remained a mystery unexplained to him, to the end of his +days. + +The pioneer merchants who traded with the Indians, and swapped calico +and sugar for butter and eggs, with the settlers, pioneer steamboat men +who ran the diminutive steamers between Olympia and Seattle, pioneer +editors, who published tri-weeklies whose news did not come in daily, +pioneer milliners who "did up" the hats of the other pioneer women with +taste and neatness, pioneer legislators, blacksmiths, bakers, +shoemakers, foundry men, shipbuilders, etc., blazed the trails of +commerce where now there are broad highways. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +BUILDING OF THE TERRITORIAL UNIVERSITY. + + +Early in 1861, the University Commissioners, Rev. D. Bagley, John +Webster and Edmund Carr, selected the site for the proposed building, +ten acres in Seattle, described as a "beautiful eminence overlooking +Elliott Bay and Puget Sound." A. A. Denny donated eight and a fraction +acres, Terry and Lander, one and a fraction acres. The structure was +fifty by eighty feet, two stories in height, beside belfry and +observatory. There were four rooms above, including the grand lecture +room, thirty-six by eighty feet, and six rooms below, beside the +entrance hall of twelve feet, running through the whole building. + +The president's house was forty by fifty, with a solid foundation of +brick and cement cellar; the boarding house twenty-four by forty-eight, +intended to have an extension when needed. A supply was provided of the +purest spring water, running through one thousand four hundred feet of +charred pump logs. + +Buildings of such dimensions were not common in the Northwest in those +days; materials were expensive and money was scarce. + +It was chiefly through the efforts of John Denny that a large +appropriation of land was made by Congress for the benefit of the +new-born institution. Although advanced in years, his hair as white as +snow, he made the long journey to Washington city and return when months +were required to accomplish it. + +By the sale of these lands the expense of construction and purchase of +material were met. The land was then worth but one dollar and a half per +acre, but enough was sold to amount to $30,400.69. + +At that time the site lay in the midst of a heavy forest, through which +a trail was made in order to reach it. + +Of the ten-acre campus, seven acres were cleared of the tall fir and +cedar trees at an expense of two hundred and seventy-five dollars per +acre, the remaining three were worse, at three hundred and sixteen +dollars per acre. + +The method of removing these forest giants was unique and imposing. The +workers partially grubbed perhaps twenty trees standing near each other, +then dispatched a sailor aloft in their airy tops to hitch them together +with a cable and descend to terra firma. A king among the trees was +chosen whose downfall should destroy his companions, and relentlessly +uprooting it, the tree-fallers suddenly and breathlessly withdrew to +witness a grand sight, the whole group of unnumbered centuries' growth +go crashing down at once. They would scarcely have been human had they +uttered no shout of triumph at such a spectacle. To see but one great, +towering fir tree go grandly to the earth with rush of boughs and +thunderous sound is a thrilling, pathetic and awe-inspiring sight. + +About the center of the tract was left a tall cedar tree to which was +added a topmast. The tree, shorn of its limbs and peeled clean of bark, +was used for a flagstaff. + +The old account books, growing yearly more curious and valuable, show +that the majority of the old pioneers joined heartily in the undertaking +and did valiant work in building the old University. + +They dug, hewed, cleared land, hauled materials, exchanged commodities, +busily toiled from morn to night, traveled hither and yon, in short did +everything that brains, muscle and energy could accomplish in the face +of what now would be deemed well nigh insurmountable obstacles. The +president of the board of commissioners, the Rev. D. Bagley, has said +that in looking back upon it he was simply foolhardy. "Why, we had not a +dollar to begin with," said he; nevertheless pluck and determination +accomplished wonders; many of the people took the lands at one dollar +and a half an acre, in payment for work and materials. + +Clarence B. Bagley, son of Rev. D. Bagley, is authority for the +following statement, made in 1896: + + "Forty-eight persons were employed on the work and nearly all the + lumber for the building was secured from the mills at Port + Blakeley and Port Madison, while the white pine of the finishing + siding, doors, sash, etc., came from a mill at Seabeck, on Hood + Canal. I have been looking over the books my father kept at that + time and find the names of many persons whom all old-timers will + remember. I found the entry relating to receiving 10,000 brick + from Capt. H. H. Roeder, the price being $15.50 per thousand, + while lime was $3 per barrel and cement $4.50 per barrel. Another + entry shows that seven gross of ordinary wood screws cost in that + early day $9.78. Capt. Roeder is now a resident of Whatcom + County. The wages then were not very high, the ordinary workman + receiving $2 and $2.25 per day and the carpenters and masons $4 + per day. + + "On the 10th of March, John Pike and his son, Harvey Pike, began + to clear the ground for the buildings and a few days later James + Crow and myself commenced. The Pikes cleared the acre of ground + in the southeast corner and we cleared the acre just adjoining, + so that we four grubbed the land on which the principal building + now stands. All the trees were cut down and the land leveled off, + and the trees which now grace the grounds started from seeds and + commenced to grow up a few years later and are now about + twenty-five years old. Among the men who helped clear the land + were: Hillory Butler, John Carr, W. H. Hyde, Edward Richardson, + L. Holgate, H. A. Atkins, Jim Hunt, L. B. Andrews, L. Pinkham, + Ira Woodin, Dr. Josiah Settle, Parmelee & Dudley, and of that + number that are now dead are Carr, Hyde, Holgate, Atkins and + Parmelee and Dudley. Mr. Crow is now living at Kent and owns a + good deal of property there. Mr. Carr was a relative of the + Hanfords. Mr. Holgate was a brother of the Holgate who was killed + in Seattle during the Indian war, being shot dead while standing + at the door of the fort. He was an uncle of the Hanfords. Mr. + Atkins was mayor of the town at one time. + + "R. King, who dressed the flagstaff, is not among the living. The + teamsters who did most of the hauling were Hillory Butler, Thomas + Mercer and D. B. Ward, all of whom are still living. William + White was blacksmith here then and did a good deal of work on the + building. He is now living in California and is well-to-do, but + his son is still a resident of Seattle. Thomas Russell was the + contractor for putting up the frame of the university building. + He died some time since and of his estate there is left the + Russell House, and his family is well known. John Dodge and John + T. Jordan did a good deal of the mason work, both of whom are now + dead, but they have children who still live in this city. The + stone for the foundation was secured from Port Orchard and the + lime came from Victoria, being secured here at a large cost." + +George Austin, who raised the flagstaff and put the top on, has been +dead many years. Dexter Horton and Yesler, Denny & Co. kept stores in +those days and furnished the nails, hardware and general merchandise. +Mr. Horton's store was where the bank now stands and the store of +Yesler, Denny & Co. was where the National Bank of Commerce now stands. +L. V. Wyckoff, the father of Van Wyckoff, who was sheriff of the county +for many years, did considerable hauling and draying. He also is dead. +Frank Mathias was a carpenter and did a good deal of the finishing work. +He died in California and his heirs have since been fighting for his +estate. + +H. McAlear kept a stove and hardware store and furnished the stoves for +the building. He is now dead and there has been a contest over some of +his property in the famous Hill tract in this city. + +D. C. Beatty and R. H. Beatty, not relatives, were both carpenters. The +former is now living on a farm near Olympia and the latter is in the +insane asylum at Steilacoom. Ira Woodin is still alive and is the +founder of Woodinville. In the early days Mr. Woodin and his father +owned the only tannery in the country, which was located at the corner +of South Fourth Street and Yesler Avenue, then Mill Street. O. J. Carr, +whose name appears as a carpenter, lives at Edgewater. He was the +postmaster of the town for many years. + +O. C. Shorey and A. P. DeLin, as "Shorey & DeLin," furnished the desks +for the several rooms and also made the columns that grace the front +entrance to the building. + +Plummer & Hinds furnished some of the materials used in the +construction. George W. Harris, the banker, auditor of the Lake Shore +road, is a stepson of Mr. Plummer. + +Jordan and Thorndyke were plasterers and both have been dead for many +years. + +David Graham, who did some of the grading, is still living in Seattle. +A. S. Mercer did most of the grading with Mr. Graham. Mr. Mercer is a +brother of Thomas Mercer, who brought out two parties of young ladies +from the Atlantic Coast by sea, many of whom are married and are now +living in Seattle. Harry Hitchcock, one of the carpenters, is now dead. +Harry Gordon was a painter and was quite well known for some years. He +finally went East, and I think is still living, although I have not +heard from him for many years. Of the three who composed the board of +university commissioners Mr. Carr and Mr. Webster are dead. + +All the paint, varnishes, brushes, etc., were purchased in Victoria and +the heavy duties made the cost very high; in fact, everything was costly +in those days. An entry is made of a keg of lath nails which cost $15, +and a common wooden wheelbarrow cost $7. The old bell came from the +East, and cost, laid down in Seattle, $295. It cost $50 to put in +position, and thus the whole cost was nearly $350. It is made of steel +and was rung from the tower for the first time in March, 1862. + +The only tinner in the place covered the cupola where hung the bell. Its +widely reaching voice proclaimed many things beside the call to studies, +fulfilling often the office of bell-buoy and fog-horn to distracted +mariners wandering in fog and smoke, and giving alarm in case of fire. +The succeeding lines set forth exactly historical facts as well as +expressing the attachment of the old pupils to the bell and indeed to +the university itself: + + THE VOICE OF THE OLD UNIVERSITY BELL. + + A vibrant voice thrilled through the air, + Now here, now there, seemed everywhere; + My young thoughts stirred, laid away in a shroud, + And joyfully rose and walked abroad. + It was long ago in my youth and pride, + When my young thoughts lived and my young thoughts died, + And often and over all unafraid + They wander and wander like ghosts unlaid. + + Through calm and storm for many a year, + I faithfully called my children dear, + And honest and urgent have been my tones + To hurry the laggard and hasten the drones, + But earnest and early or lazy and late + They toiled up the hill and entered the gate, + Across the campus they rushed pell-mell + At the call of the old University bell. + If danger menaced on land or sea, + The note of warning loud and free; + Or a joyous peal in the twilight dim + Of the New Year's dawn, after New Year's hymn. + If a ship in the bay floated out ablaze, + Or the fog-wreaths blinded the mariner's gaze, + Safe into port they steered them well, + Cheered by the old University bell. + + When Lincoln the leader was stricken low, + O! a darker day may we never know, + A bitter wail from my heart was wrung + To float away from my iron tongue, + On storm-wing cast it traveled fast, + Above me writhed the flag half-mast. + My children wept, their fathers frowned, + With clenched hands looked down to the ground, + For the saddest note that ever fell + From the throat of the old University bell. + + But deep was the joy and wild was the clamor, + With leaping hot haste they hurried the hammer, + When the battles were fought and the war was all over, + O'er the North and the South did the peace angels hover; + My children sang sweetly and softly and low + "The Union forever, is safe now we know," + The years they may come and the years they may go, + And hearts that were loyal will ever be so. + + There's a long roll-call, I ring over all + That have harkened and answered in the old hall; + Adams and Andrews, (from A unto Z, + Alphabetic arrangement as any can see), + Bonney and Bagley and Mercer and Hays, + Francis and Denny in bygone days, + Hastings and Ebey, the Oregon Strongs, + And many another whose name belongs + To fame and the world, or has passed away + To realms that are bright with endless day. + + The presidents ruled with a right good will, + Mercer and Barnard, Whitworth and Hill, + Anderson, Powell, Gatch and Hall, + Harrington now and I've named them all. + Witten and Thayer, Hansee and Lee, + The wise professors were fair to see, + They strictly commanded, did study compel + At the call of the old University bell. + + Osborne, McCarty, Thornton and Spain, + With their companions in sunshine and rain, + Back in the seventies, might tell what befell + At the ring of the old University bell. + The eighties came on and the roll-call grew longer + Emboldened with learning, my voice rang the stronger; + The day of Commencement saw young men and maids + Proudly emerge from the classic shades + Where oft they had heard and heeded well + The voice of the old University bell. + + They bore me away to a shrine new and fine, + Where the pilgrims of learning with yearning incline; + Enwrapped they now seem, in a flowery dream, + The stars of good fortune so radiant beam. + Of the long roll call not one is forgot, + If sorrow beset them or happy their lot; + My wandering children all love me so well, + Their life-work done, they'll wish a soft knell + Might be tolled by the old University bell. + +Such is the force of habit that it was many years before I could shake +off the inclination to obey the imperative summons of the old +University bell. + +With other small children, I ran about on the huge timbers of the +foundation, in the dusk when the workmen were gone, glancing around a +little fearfully at the dark shadows in the thick woods, and then +running home as fast as our truant feet could carry us. + +The laying of the cornerstone was an imposing ceremony to our minds and +a significant as well as gratifying occasion to our elders. + +The speeches, waving of flags, salutes, Masonic emblems and service with +the music rendered by a fine choir, accompanied by a pioneer melodeon, +made it quite as good as a Fourth of July. + +All the well-to-do ranchers and mill men sent their children from every +quarter. The Ebeys of Whidby Island, Hays of Olympia, Strongs of Oregon, +Burnetts of down Sound and Dennys of Seattle, beside the children of +many other prominent pioneers, received their introduction to learning +beneath its generous shelter. A cheerful, energetic crowd they were with +clear brains and vigorous bodies. + +The school was of necessity preparatory; in modern slang, a University +was rather previous in those days. + +But all out-of-doors was greater than our books when it came to physical +geography and natural history, to say nothing of botany, geology, etc. +Observing eyes and quick wits discovered many things not yet in this +year of grace set down in printed pages. + +A curious thing, and rather absurd, was the care taken to instruct us in +"bounding" New Hampshire, Vermont and all the rest of the Eastern +states, while owing to the lack of local maps we were obliged to gain +the most of our knowledge of Washington by traveling over it. + +The first instruction given within its walls was in a little summer +school taught by Mrs. O. J. Carr, which I attended. + +Previous to this my mother was my patient and affectionate instructor, +an experienced and efficient one I will say, as teaching had been her +profession before coming west. + +Asa Mercer was at the head of the University for a time, followed by W. +E. Barnard, under whose sway it saw prosperous days. A careful and +painstaking teacher with a corps of teachers fresh from eastern schools, +and ably seconded in his efforts by his lovely wife, a very accomplished +lady, he was successful in building up the attendance and increasing the +efficiency of the institution. But after a time it languished, and was +closed, the funds running low. + +Under the Rev. F. H. Whitworth it again arose. It was then run with the +common school funds, which raised such opposition that it finally came +to a standstill. + +D. T. Denny was a school director and county treasurer at the same +time, but could not pay any monies to the University without an order +from the county superintendent. On one occasion he was obliged to put a +boy on horseback and send him eleven miles through the forest and back, +making a twenty-two mile ride, to obtain the required order. + +The children and young people who attended the University in the old +times are scattered far and wide, some have attained distinction in +their callings, many are worthy though obscure, and some have passed +away from earthly scenes. + +We spoke our "pieces," delivered orations, wrote compositions, played +ball games of one or more "cats" and many old-fashioned games in and +around the big building and often climbed up to the observatory to look +out over the beautiful bay and majestic mountains. That glistening sheet +of water often drew the eyes from the dull page and occasionally an +unwary pupil would be reminded in a somewhat abrupt fashion to proceed +with his researches. + +One afternoon a boy who had been gazing on its changing surface for some +minutes, caught sight of a government vessel rounding the point, and +jumped up saying excitedly, "There's a war ship a-comin'!" to the +consternation though secret delight of the whole school. + +"Well, don't stop her," dryly said the teacher, and the boy subsided +amid the smothered laughter of his companions. + +Cupid sometimes came to school then, as I doubt not he does in these +days, not as a learner but distracter--to those who were his victims. + +It's my opinion, and I have it from St. Catherine, he should have been +set on the dunce block and made to study Malthus. + +Two notable victims are well remembered, one a lovely blonde young girl, +a beautiful singer; the other as dark as a Spaniard, with melting black +eyes and raven tresses. They did not wait to graduate but named the +happy day. The blonde married a Democratic editor, well known in early +journalism, the other a very popular man, yet a resident of Seattle. + +The whole of the second story of the University consisted of one great +hall or assembly room with two small ante-rooms. Here the school +exhibitions were held, lectures and entertainments given. Christmas +trees, Sunday schools, political meetings and I do not know what else, +although I think no balls were ever permitted in those days, a modern +degeneration to my mind. + +The old building has always been repainted white until within a few +years and stood among the dark evergreen a thing of dignity and beauty, +the tall fluted columns with Doric capitals being especially admired. + +But changes will come; a magnificent, new, expensive and ornate edifice +has been provided with many modern adjuncts--and the old University has +been painted a grimy putty color! + +The days of old, the golden days, will never be forgotten by the +students of the old University, which, although perhaps not so +comfortable or elegant nor of so elevated a curriculum as the new, +compassed the wonderful beginnings of things intellectual, sowing the +seed that others might harvest, planting the tree of knowledge from +which others should gather the fruit. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +A CHEHALIS LETTER, PENNED IN '52. + + + Mound Prairie, Chehalis River, near + Mr. Ford's Tavern, Lewis County, + Oregon Territory. 14 Nov. 1852. + +My dear Elizabeth: + +I believe this is the first letter I have addressed to you since we +removed from Wisconsin, and I feel truly thankful to say that through +the infinite mercy of God both my family and self have been in the +enjoyment of excellent, uninterrupted health. + +The last letter we received from Wisconsin was from my brother Thomas, +complaining of our long silence. We found, too, that Mr. James' long +letter, containing an account of our route--arrival in Oregon--our +having made a claim on the Clackamas, with description of it--and all +our progress up to February last, had been received. So here begins the +next chapter. About the middle of March we removed into our new log +house; here we found everything necessary to make a homestead +comfortable and even delightful--a beautiful building spot on a pleasant +knoll of considerable extent--a clear brook running along within a few +yards of our door; and surrounded by the grandest mountain scenery--and +more than that, decidedly healthy. Within walking distance of Oregon +City and Milwaukee, and eight miles from Portland. With all these +advantages the boys could not reconcile themselves to it on account of +the great lack of grass which prevails for twenty miles 'round. + +Brush of all description, Hazel, Raspberry, Salal, Rose, Willow and Fern +grow to a most gigantic size. And in February what appeared to us and +others--a kind of grass--sprang up quickly over the ground and mountain +side; nor was it 'till May, when it blossomed out, that we discovered +what we hoped would be nourishment for our cattle, was nothing more than +the grass Iris, and fully accounted for the straying of our cattle and +the constant hunt that was kept up by our neighbors and selves after +cattle and horses. + +In fact we soon found that this was no place for cattle until it had +been subdued and got into cultivation. To make the matter worse we were +every now and then in the receipt of messages and accounts from our +friends and acquaintances who were located, some in Umpqua, some in the +Willamette Valley, some at Puget Sound. Those from Umpqua sent us word +that there was grass enough all winter, on one claim for a thousand head +of cattle. Mr. Lucas in the Callipooiah Mountains at the head of the +Willamette, sent us pressing invitations to come up and settle by him, +where he had grass as high as his knees in February. In the Willamette +the first rate places were all taken up. Samuel and Billy joined in +begging their father to make a tour north or south to see some of these +desirable places. Finally he was induced, though rather reluctantly (so +well he liked our pleasant home and so confident was he of raising grass +and grain) to visit one or the other after harvest. We finished our +harvest in July and in August Mr. J., accompanied by Billy, set off on a +journey of exploration to the north. The land route lay along the north +bank of the Columbia for sixty miles to the mouth of the Cowlitz, then +thirty miles up that river over Indian trails, all but impassable. This +brought them into the beautiful prairies of Puget Sound, sixty or +seventy miles through which brought them to that branch of the Pacific. +They returned after an absence of between three and four weeks. So well +were Mr. James and Billy pleased with the country that they made no +delay on their return in selling out their improvements which they had +an opportunity of doing immediately. We had milked but two cows during +the summer, but even with the poor feed we had, I had kept the family in +butter and sold $20 worth, but then I had fifty cents and five shillings +per pound. As to my poultry, I obtained with some difficulty the favor +of a pullet and a rooster for $2.00. In March I added another hen to my +stock, and so rapidly did they increase, that in September I had, small +and big, eighty. After keeping six pullets and a rooster for myself, I +made $25.00 off the rest, so you may judge by a little what much will +do in Oregon. + +Well, it is time for me to take you on board the Batteaux, as I wish you +all had been on the 16th of September, when we set sail down the +Willamette from Milwaukee. After two days we entered the Columbia, one +of the noblest of rivers. After three days, with a head wind all the +time, we entered the mouth of the Cowlitz, a beautiful stream, but so +swift that none but Indians can navigate it. We had to hire five Indians +for $50.00 to take us up. Four days brought us to what is called the +upper landing of the Cowlitz. Here ended our river travel--by far the +most pleasant journey I ever made. There we met Samuel and Billy who +with Tom had taken the cattle by the trail. We halted at a Mr. +Jackson's, where we stopped for a fortnight, while Mr. J. and the boys +journeyed away in search of adventures and a claim. + +On the banks of the Chehalis, 30 miles north of where we stopped and 30 +miles south of the Sound, they found a claim satisfactory in every +respect to all parties, and what was not a little, we found a cabin a +great deal better than the one we found last winter. + +The Indians told us that _tennes_ (white) Jack, who _momicked_ (worked) +it had _clatawawed_ (traveled or went) to California in quest of +_chicamun_ (metal) and had never _chacooed_ (come back), so we entered +on _tennes_ Jack's labours. As a farm and location, this certainly +exceeds our most sanguine expectations. I often thought last year that +we had bettered our conditions from what they were in Wisconsin, and now +I think we have improved ours ten times beyond what we then were. + +Our claim is along the banks of the Chehalis, a navigable river which +empties into the Pacific at Grays Harbor, about 70 miles below us. A +settlement is just commenced at the mouth of the river and a sawmill is +erected 10 miles below us, or rather is building. These are all the +settlements on the river below us, and our nearest neighbor above us is +6 miles up. A prairie of 10 miles long and varying in width from 2 to 4 +miles stretched away to the north of us, watered with a beautiful stream +of water and covered with grass at this time as green as in May. + +A stream of water flows within a few yards of our house, so full of +salmon that Tom and Johnny could with ease catch a barrel in an hour; +they are from 20 to 30 lbs. in a fish. Besides which we have a small +fish here very much resembling a pilchard. + +We are blessed with the most beautiful springs of water, one of which +will be enclosed in our door yard. As far as I can learn there are in +the thickest settled parts of this portion of Oregon, about one family +in a township--many towns are not so thickly settled. We are the only +inhabitants of this great prairie except a few Indians who have a +fishing station about a mile from us. These are on very friendly terms +with us, supplying us with venison, wild fowl and mats at a very +reasonable price, as we are the only customers and we in return letting +them have what _sappalille_ (flour) and molasses we can at a reasonable +price, which they are always willing to pay. Soap is another article I +am glad to see in request among them. And it affords them no little +amusement to look at the plates of the Encyclopedia. But I fear it will +be long before they will be brought to _momick_ the _illahe_ (earth). +They are the finest and stoutest set of Indians we have seen. + +We converse with them by means of a jargon composed of English, French +and Chinook, and which the Indians speak fluently, and we are getting to +_waw-waw_ (speak) pretty well. My children, I am thankful to say, look +better than I ever saw them in America; they have not had the least +symptoms of any of the diseases that they were so much afflicted with in +Wisconsin. And now, my dear Elizabeth, if wishing would bring you here, +you should soon be here in what appears to me to be one of the most +delightful portions of the globe. But then, ever since I have been in +America I have regarded a mild climate as a "pearl of great price" in +temporal things and felt willing to pay for it accordingly and I have +not had the least reason to think I have valued it too high. Many and +many a year has passed since I have enjoyed life as I have since I have +been in Oregon. + +I should have told you that the Chehalis is one of the most beautiful +rivers in Oregon. Our claim stretches a mile along the north bank of it. +It flows through quite an elevated part of the country. Our house, +though within a few rods of the river, has one of the finest views in +Oregon, the prairie stretching away to the north like a fine lawn, +skirted on each side by oak and maple, at this time in all the brilliant +hues of Autumn; behind, on gently rising hills, forests of fir and cedar +of most gigantic height and size; farther still to the northeast rises +the ever snow-clad mountains of Rainier and St. Helens, on the opposite +side to the southwest of the coast range, so near that we can see the +trees on them. So magnificent are those immense snow mountains that none +but those who have seen them can form any idea of it. + +This prairie takes its name from a remarkable mound about a mile from +our house; it stands in about 25 acres and is 100 feet high, with a pure +spring half way up. The rest of the prairie is almost level without a +spring except in the margin. The soil of the mound, as well as some of +the margin, has just enough clay to make it a rich and excellent soil; +the rest of the prairie is deficient in clay; it has a rich black mould +overlaying two feet deep, resting on substratum of sand and gravel, +which in some places is so mixed with the soil as to give it the name +of a gravelly prairie. You might have the choice of fifty such prairies +as this and some better on this river. Farmers were never better paid in +the world, even my little dairy of two cows has for the month past +turned me in, at least I have sold butter to the amount of two and a +half bushels of wheat a day at Wisconsin prices of 30 cents, and have by +me 26 pounds for which I shall have at least 60 cents or $1.00 per +pound. I now milk three cows; we have four; and Mr. James means to add +two more and a few sheep. Mr. J. sold the worst yoke of cattle he had +for $160.00. Cows are worth from $50.00 to $100.00; sheep are from $5.00 +to $9.00; chickens, 60 cents to $1.00 each; eggs, 50 cents per dozen; +dry goods and groceries just the same as in the states; wheat $3.00 per +bushel. We left our wheat on the Clackamas to be threshed. They, Samuel +and Billy, are now preparing to put in ten acres of fall wheat, potatoes +are $2.00 per bushel. Indians easy to hire, both men and women, at +reasonable wages. Extensive coal mines of excellent quality have been +discovered within 15 miles of this place. But all these things are +secondary in my estimation compared with the climate, which is allowed +by all English to be superior to their native clime. + +It makes me very sad to think how we are separated as a family, never to +meet again (at least in all probability) under one roof. O, that we may +all meet at least at the right hand of God, let this be our sole concern +and our path will be made plain in temporals. + +You have the advantage of us in schools, churches and society, but I +feel quite patient to wait the arrival of those blessings in addition to +those we enjoy. This letter will be accompanied by a paper to Mr. +McNaves, "_The Columbian_," published at Olympia, Puget Sound. Mr. James +has just written an article for it, entitled the "Rainy Season." I +wonder how Amy and Edward are getting on; how I wish they were here. Do +you think they will ever come over? Should any of you (of course I +include any old friends and acquaintances at Caledonia) determine on +removing to this part, the instructions in my husband's letter are the +best we can give. + +There has been great suffering on the road this year. We have seen a +great many families who came through in a very fair manner, some of them +without even the loss of a single head of cattle; these were among the +first trains; among the latter the loss of cattle and lives was awful. +Some horrid murders were committed on the road, for which the murderers +were tried and shot or hung on the spot. The papers say there will be +fifteen thousand added to the population of Oregon by this year's +emigration. It is in contemplation to open a road through from Grand +Ronde on to Puget Sound, which will shorten the distance at least 300 +miles and out of the very worst of the road. Samuel and Billy are +determined to come to meet you on the new route with Jack and Dandy, and +more if wanted. Now we are settled in earnest you shall hear from us +oftener and hope we shall the same from you. Give my kindest and best +love to Mother. One old lady, about her age, crossed the plains when we +did; she was alive and well when we left the other side of the Columbia. + +I must introduce to you an old acquaintance--the Rooks--caw! caw! caw! +all around us. We have a rookery on our farm. It is now the 28th of +Nov., a fortnight since I wrote the above, in hopes that it would be on +its passage to Wisconsin ere this, but was disappointed of sending to +the postoffice. Weather warm and sunshiny as May, two or three white +frosts that vanished with the rising of the sun are all we have had, not +the slightest prospect of sleighing nearer than the slopes of Mt. +Rainier. + +I have just asked all hands for the dark side of Oregon, not one could +mention anything worth calling such. Mr. J. says the shades are so light +as to be invisible. The grey squirrel on the south of the Columbia was +the most formidable enemy to the farmer; more of that when I write next. + +My kindest love to all the dear children; how I long to see them all +again, particularly Anna; O, that she may be a very good girl. Richard +and Allan often talk of writing to Avis and Lydia. How are Mr. and Mrs. +Welch and family? How gladly would I welcome them to my humble cabin. I +cannot help thinking, too, that Mrs. W. and I could enjoy ourselves here +on the green sward and in looking at the beautiful evergreen shrubs and +plants on the banks of the Chehalis, though we might be overtaken by a +mild sprinkling. A canoe on the waters of that beautiful stream would +help to compensate for the loss of a sleigh on the snows of Wisconsin, +particularly when it can be enjoyed at the same season of the year. But +I suppose I must look upon all this as a Utopian dream, as I expect few +if any of you would barter your comfortable house for a log cabin; well, +it is my home, and I hope I have not given you an exaggerated +description of it. I wished my husband to write a more particular +description of the soil and its productions than I could give, but he +was in no writing mood. He says the prairies as far as he has seen are +not equal to Iowa or Illinois, but for climate and health he thinks +Oregon equals if not surpasses most parts of the world. + + * * * * * + +Well, I must bid you good-bye, with kind regards to Mr. and Mrs. +Drummond, with all my other friends in Yorkville, Mr. Moyle and Susan, +with all my friends and acquaintances in Caledonia. I will write again, +all's well, about Christmas, and hope you will attend to the same rate +and write once in a month. Farewell my dear sister. Yours in true +affection, + + A. M. JAMES. + +P. S.--If Jane and Dick are married, I will risk saying that the best +thing they can do is to come here. All the children send their love to +you all. I should be thankful for a few flower seeds. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +SOME PIONEERS OF PORT TOWNSEND. + + +In Port Townsend and Seattle papers of 1902 appeared the following items +of history pertaining to settlers of Port Townsend: + + "Port Townsend, Feb. 15, 1902.--On Friday, February 21, there is + to be held in Port Townsend a reunion of old settlers to + celebrate the fiftieth anniversary of the landing at this place + of some of the first white families to settle on Puget Sound + north of the little town of Steilacoom. + + "Much interest is being manifested in the coming celebration + among the old-timers on Puget Sound, many of whom have already + responded to invitations that have been sent them. Most of these + letters contain interesting anecdotes or references touching the + past. One of them is from Judge E. D. Warbass, of San Juan + county, who writes from 'Idlewild,' his country home, near Friday + Harbor, under date of February 1. In his letter to J. A. Kuhn, + whom he addresses as 'My Dear Ankutty Tillikum,' he says: + + "'This is my birthday, born in A. D. 1825. Please figure up the + time for yourself. I have just finished my breakfast and chores, + and will get this letter off on the 9 o'clock mail. I am + sincerely obliged for the honor of being invited to come to the + Port Townsend celebration and to prepare and read some + reminiscences of my experiences during all these years. I hope to + be able to do so, and will, if I can, but you know I am no longer + the same rollicking Ed, but quite an old man. However, I am + willing to contribute my mite towards making your celebration a + success, and weather and health permitting, will be there. Delate + mika siam.' + + "A. A. Plummer, Sr., and Henry Bacheller came to Port Townsend by + sailing vessel from San Francisco, in the fall of 1851, and + remained here during the winter. A few days after they arrived + here, L. B. Hastings and F. W. Pettygrove came in overland from + Portland, carrying their blankets on their backs. They soon + decided to return to Portland and bring their families over. Mr. + Hastings arranged with Plummer and Bacheller to build a cabin for + him by the time he returned. + + "He and Pettygrove went back to Portland, and soon afterward Mr. + Hastings bought the schooner Mary Taylor. He made up a party of + congenial people, and on February 9, 1852, the Mary Taylor sailed + from the Columbia river with the following named persons, and + their families, on board: L. B. Hastings, F. W. Pettygrove, + Benjamin Ross, David Shelton, Thomas Tallentyre and Smith Hayes. + The last named had no family. + + "On February 19 the schooner passed in by Cape Flattery, and on + the afternoon of the 20th came upon the Hudson Bay settlement on + Vancouver Island, at Victoria. Present survivors of the trip, who + were then children, recall how their fathers lifted them up to + their shoulders and pointed out the little settlement, telling + them at the same time that that country belonged to England, and + of their own purpose of crossing over to the American side and + there establishing a home for themselves. That night the schooner + dropped anchor in Port Townsend bay. + + "Early next morning--February 21--the schooner was boarded by + Quincy A. Brooks, deputy collector and inspector of customs. Mr. + Brooks had arrived here only a few hours ahead of the Mary + Taylor, coming from Olympia and bringing with him the following + customs inspectors: A. M. Poe, H. C. Wilson and A. B. Moses. + These men had been sent here by the collector of customs to + investigate stories of smuggling being carried on between the + Hudson Bay Company and Indians on the Sound. The customs + officials were camped on the beach. With them were B. J. Madison + and William Wilton, the former of whom later settled here. A. A. + Plummer and Henry Bacheller were also camped on the beach here at + the same time, having been here since their arrival from San + Francisco in the preceding fall. + +[Illustration: SHIP "BELLE ISLE" LOADING COAL, 1876] + + "Early in the forenoon of February 21 all on board the schooner + Mary Taylor were landed on the beach and immediately began the + work of carving out homes for themselves in what was then a + wilderness thickly inhabited by Indians. Mr. Hastings found his + cabin ready for occupancy, all but the roof, which had not been + put on. A temporary roof was constructed and the family moved in. + That night twelve inches of snow fell, it being the first snow + that had fallen here during the entire winter. Mr. Hastings' + schooner afterward made several trips between the Columbia river + and the Sound, bringing additional families here. + + "The present survivors of the Mary Taylor's passengers are the + following: L. W. D. Shelton and his sister, Mary, Oregon C. + Hastings, Frank W. Hastings, Maria Hastings Littlefield, Benj. S. + Pettygrove and Sophia Pettygrove McIntyre. All but Mr. Shelton + and his sister and Oregon C. Hastings are residents of Port + Townsend. + + "Oregon C. Hastings was born in Illinois in 1845, and crossed the + plains in 1849 with his parents. He is living in Victoria. + + "Benjamin S. Pettygrove is a native of Portland, Oregon, where he + was born on September 30, 1846. He was the first white male child + born in Portland. + + "Frank W. Hastings was born in Portland on November 16, 1848. + + "Sophia Pettygrove was born in Portland on November 17, 1848. She + was married on her 17th birthday to Captain James McIntyre, who + lost his life a few weeks ago in the wreck of the steamship + Bristol in Alaskan waters. + + "Judge J. A. Kuhn is the moving spirit in the matter of these + pioneers' reunions and in the organization of Native Sons and + Native Daughters lodges. He made a promise to G. Morris Haller of + Seattle, as far back as 1877, he says, that he would take up the + organizations referred to, in the interest of history and + research. The matter remained dormant, however, till the year + 1893, when, on March 2, of that year, he instituted in Port + Townsend, Jefferson Camp No. 1, Native Sons of Washington, with + 12 members present. The camp now has 118 members. On July 3, + 1895, he instituted in Port Townsend, Lucinda Hastings Parlor No. + 1, Native Daughters of Washington. There are now in the state + nine camps of Native Sons and four parlors of Native Daughters. + + "A. A. Plummer, Sr., now deceased, was one of the fathers of Port + Townsend and was considered quite a remarkable man. He was born + in the state of Maine, March 3, 1822, and was a veteran of the + Mexican war. He fought under Col. Stevens in that conflict and at + its close went to California, going from there to Portland by + sailing vessel in 1850. + + "Major Quincy A. Brooks was the second deputy collector of + customs ever sworn into the service in the Puget Sound district. + In January, 1852, he succeeded Elwood Evans as deputy collector + for the district. The collector of customs was then Simpson P. + Moses, of Cincinnati, Ohio, and the custom house was located at + Olympia." + +At the reunion on the 21st of February, 1902, many things were brought +to light. + + "Among the many stories of early days and reminiscences recalled + at the pioneers' gathering one of the most interesting was Mr. + Shelton's story of the trip of the Mary Taylor from Portland to + Port Townsend. Mr. Shelton had committed his reminiscences to + manuscript as follows: + + "'Fifty years ago, some time about the first of February, the + little 75-ton schooner Mary Taylor left Portland, Ore., for Puget + Sound, having on board the families of L. B. Hastings, F. W. + Pettygrove, David Shelton, Thomas Tallentyre, Benjamin Ross and + Smith Hayes. Mr. Hayes had no family here, but I think he had a + family in the East. Mr. Ross had one son, about 20 years old. + + "'Our little craft was navigated by Captain Hutchinson and a crew + of four or five men. The families were all old acquaintances. + Those of Hastings, Ross and Shelton crossed the plains together + in 1847, and concluded to cast their fortunes together again in + their last great move, which was to this country. + + "'We lay at Astoria several days, waiting for a favorable + opportunity to cross the bar. We made three trials before we + ventured out to sea and were three or four days getting up to + Cape Flattery, where we lay quite a while in a calm. We found + here that we were in soundings, and some of the party commenced + fishing, but all they could catch were dog fish, which we tried + to eat, but we found that they were not the kind of fish that we + cared about. + + "'Our first sight of Indians in this part of the country was off + Neah Bay. We were drifting near Waadah Island, when canoes came + swarming out of their village in the bay. We had heard ugly + stories about this tribe, and prepared for them by stacking our + arms around the masts, to be handy in case of need. They were + clamorous to come on board, but we thought that they were as well + off in their canoes as they would be anywhere else. Some of our + party sauntered along the deck with guns in their hands, in view + of the Indians. + + "'The Indians then wanted to trade fish for tobacco and trinkets. + A few pieces of tobacco were thrown into their canoes and then + they commenced throwing fish aboard, and such fish for a landsman + to look at! There were bull-heads, rock-cod, kelp-fish, mackerel, + fish as flat as your hand, and skates, and other monstrosities, + the likes of which the most of our party had never seen before, + and when our old cook dished them up for us at dinner we found + that they were fine and delicious. There is where we made the + acquaintance of sea-bass and rock-cod, and we have cultivated + their acquaintance ever since. There were also mussels and clams + among the lot, which we found to be very good. We were surrounded + by another lot of Indians near Clallam Bay, with about the same + performances and with the same results as at Neah Bay.' + + "Another incident that I recall happened near Dungeness spit. A + couple of canoes filled with Indians came alongside and as there + was only a few of them they were allowed to come on board. The + tyee of the crowd introduced himself as Lord Jim. He wore a plug + hat, a swallowtailed coat, a shirt and an air of immense + importance. I suppose he had secured his outfit as a 'cultus + potlatch' from persons he had met. He had evidently met several + white people in his time, as he had a number of testimonials as + to his character as a good Indian. I remember of hearing one of + his testimonials read and it impressed me as having come from one + who had studied the Indian character to some effect. It read + something like this: + + "'To whom it may concern: This will introduce Lord Jim, a noted + Indian of this part of the country. Look out for him or he will + steal the buttons off your coat.' A further acquaintance with + Lord Jim seemed to inspire the belief that the confidence of the + writer was not misplaced. + + "Shortly after we left Lord Jim we sailed along Protection + Island, one of the beauty spots of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. + Somewhere along here another thing happened--trivial in its + nature--the memory of which has stayed with me all these years. + Mr. Pettygrove was walking the deck in a meditative manner, when + he happened to feel that he needed a cigar. He called to his son, + Ben, about six years old, and told him to bring him some cigars. + Ben wanted to know how many he should get. His father told him to + get as many as he had fingers on both hands. Ben, proud of his + commission, darted away and soon returned with eight cigars. His + father looked at them a moment and said: 'How is this; you have + only brought me eight cigars?' 'Well,' said Ben, 'that is all the + fingers I have.' 'No,' said his father, 'you have ten on both + your hands.' 'Why, no I haven't,' said Ben, 'two of them are + thumbs,' and I guess Ben was right. + + "The next morning, after passing Dungeness Spit, we found our + vessel anchored abreast of what is now the business part of Port + Townsend, which was then a large Indian village. That was + February 21, 1852, fifty years ago today. How it stirs the blood + and quickens the memory to look back over those eventful + years--eventful years for our state, our Pacific Coast and our + entire country--and these years have been equally eventful for + the little band that landed here that day so full of hope and + energy. + + "Our fathers and mothers are all gone to their well-earned rest + and reward. Of the thirteen children that were with them at that + time nine are still living, and I am proud of the fact that they + are all respectable citizens of the community in which they live. + They have seen all the history of this part of the country that + amounts to much and in their humble way have helped to make it. + They have helped conquer the wilderness and the savages and have + done their share in laying the foundation of what will be one of + the greatest states of our Union. Their fathers were men of + honesty and more than ordinary force of character, as their deeds + and labors in behalf of their country and families show, and the + mothers of blessed memory--their children never realized the + power for good they were in this world until they were grown and + had families of their own, but they know it now. They know now + how they encouraged their husbands when dark days came; how they + cheerfully shared the trials and hardships incident to those + early pioneer days, and when brighter fortunes came they + exercised the same helpful guiding influence in their well + ordered, comfortable homes that they did in their first log + cabins in the wilderness." + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +PERSONNEL OF THE PIONEER ARMY. + + +A long roll of honor I might call of the brave men and women who dared +and strove in the wild Northwest of the long ago. If I speak of +representative pioneers, those unnamed might be equally typical of the +bold army of "forest-felling kings," "forest-fallers" as well as +"fighters," like those Northland men of old. + +There are the names of Denny, Yesler, Phillips, Terry, Low, Boren, +Butler, Bell, Mercer, Maple, Van Asselt, Horton, Hanford, McConaha, +Smith, Maynard, Frye, Blaine and others who felled the forest and laid +foundations at and near Seattle; Briggs, Hastings, Van Bokkelin, +Hammond, Pettygrove with others founded Port Townsend, while Lansdale, +Crockett, Alexander, Cranney, Kellogg, Hancock, Izett, Busby, Ebey and +Coupe, led the van for Whidby Island; Eldridge and Roeder at Bellingham +Bay; toward the head of navigation, McAllister, Bush, Simmons, Packwood, +Chambers, Shelton, are a few of those who blazed the way. + +The blows of the sturdy forest-felling kings rang out from many a +favored spot on the shores of the great Inland Sea, cheerful signals for +the thousands to come after them. + +[Illustration: WILLIAM R. BOREN REV. D. E. BLAINE CARSON D. BOREN] + +These, and the long list of the Here Unnamed, waged the warfare of +beginnings, which required such large courage, independence, +persistence, faith and uncompromising toil, as the velvet-shod +aftercomers can scarcely conceive of. + +Simultaneously with the early subjugation of the country, the political, +educational, commercial and social initiatory movements were made of +whose present development the people of Puget Sound may well be proud. + +Since the organization of the Washington Pioneer Association in October, +1883, the old pioneers and their children have met year by year in the +lavish month of June to recount their adventures, toils and privations, +and enjoy the sympathy begotten of similar experiences, in the midst of +modern ease and plenty. + +A concourse of this kind in Seattle evoked the following words of +appreciation: + + "No organization, no matter what its nature might be, could + afford the people of Seattle more gratification by holding its + assemblage in their midst than is afforded them by the action of + the Pioneers' Association of Washington Territory in holding its + annual gathering in this city. Unlike conventions and gatherings + in which only a portion of the community is interested, the + meeting of the pioneers is interesting to all. To some, of + course, the event is of more importance than to others, but all + have an interest in the Pioneers' Association, all have a pride + in the achievement of its members, and all can feel that they + are the beneficiaries of the struggle and hardships of which the + pioneers tell. + + "The reminiscences of the pioneers from the history of the first + life breathings of our commonwealth--of a commonwealth which, + though in its infancy, is grand indeed, and which gives promise + of attaining greatness in the full maturity of its powers of + which those who laid the foundations of the state scarcely + dreamed. The pioneers are the fathers of the commonwealth; their + struggles and their hardships were the struggles and the + hardships of a state coming into being. They cleared the forests, + not for themselves alone, but for posterity and for all time. As + they subdued a wild and rugged land and prepared it to sustain + and support its share of the people of the earth, each blow of + their ax was a blow destined to resound through all time, each + furrow turned by their ploughshares that the earth might yield + again and again to their children's children so long as man shall + inhabit the earth. No stroke of work done in the progress of that + great labor was done in vain. None of the mighty energy was lost. + Each tree that fell, fell never to rise. Each nail driven in a + settler's hut was a nail helping to bind together the fabric of + the community. Each day's labor was given to posterity more + surely than if it had been sold for gold to be buried in the + earth and brought forth by delighted searchers centuries hence. + + "It is for this that we honor the pioneers. It is for this that + we are proud and happy to have them meet among us. We are their + heirs. Our inheritance is the fruit of their labor, the reward of + their fortitude, the recompense of their hardships. The home of + today, the center of comfort and contentment, the very soul of + the state, could not have been but for the log cabins of forty + years ago. The imposing edifice of learning, the complete system + of education, could not have been but for the crude school house + of the past. The churches and religious institutions of today are + the result of the untiring and unselfish labors of the itinerant + preacher who wandered back and forth, now painfully picking his + way through the forest, now threading with his frail canoe the + silver streams, now gliding over the calm waters of the Sound, + ever laying broad and deep the true foundations of the grand + civilization that was to be. The flourishing cities, the steel + rails that bind us to the world, the stately steamers that, + behemoth-like, journey to and fro in our waters,--these things + could not be but for the rude straggling hamlets, the bridle path + cut with infinite labor through the most impenetrable of forests, + and the canoe which darted arrow-like through gloomy passages, + over bright bays and up laughing waters. + + "All honor to the pioneers--all honor and welcome. We say it who + are their heirs, we whose homes are on the land which they + reclaimed from the forests, we who till the fields that they + first tilled, we whose pride and glory is the grand land-locked + sea on which they gazed delighted so many years ago. Welcome to + them, and may they come together again and again as the years + pass away. When their eyes are dim with age and their hair is as + white as the snows that cover the mountains they love, may they + still see the land which they created the home of a great, proud + people, a people loving the land they love, a people honoring and + obeying the laws that they have honored and obeyed so long, a + people honoring, glorying in, the flag which they bore over + treeless plains, over lofty mountains, over raging torrents, + through suffering and danger, always proudly, always confidently, + always hopefully, until they planted it by the shore of the + Western sea in the most beautiful of all lands. May each old + settler, as he journeys year by year toward the shoreless sea, + over whose waters he must journey away, feel that the flag which + he carried so far and so bravely will wave forever in the soft + southwestern breeze, which kisses his furrowed brow and toys with + his silvery hair. May he feel, too, that the love of the people + is with him, that they watch him, lovingly, tenderly, as he + journeys down the pathway, and the story of his deeds is graven + forever on their minds, and love and honor forever on their + hearts." + +And so do I, a descendent of a long line of pioneers in America, +reiterate, "Honor the Pioneers." + +[Illustration: MRS. LYDIA C. LOW] + + +LYDIA C. LOW. + +Mrs. Low was one of the party that landed at Alki, Nov. 13th, 1851, +having crossed the plains with her husband and children. + +I have heard her tell of seeing my father, D. T. Denny, the lone white +occupant of Alki, as she stepped ashore from the boat that carried the +passengers from the schooner. + +The Lows did not make a permanent settlement there, but moved to a farm +back of Olympia, thence to Sonoma, Cal., and back again to Puget Sound, +where they made their home at Snohomish for many years. Mrs. Low was the +mother of a large family of nine children, who shared her pioneer life. +Some died in childhood, accidents befell others, a part were more +fortunate, yet she seemed in old age serene, courageous, undaunted as +ever, faithful and true, lovely and beloved. + +She passed from earth away on Dec. 11th, 1901, her husband, John D. Low, +having preceded her a number of years before. + + +OTHER PIONEERS. + +Both Mr. and Mrs. Izett of Whidby Island are pioneers of note. Mrs. +Izett crossed the plains in 1847, and in 1852 came to the Sound on a +visit, at the same time Mr. Izett happened to arrive. He persuaded her +not to return to her old home. Mr. Izett in 1850 went to India from +England by way of Cape Horn, and two years later came to Seattle. For +four years he secured spars for the British government at Utsalady. In +1859 he built the first boat of any size to be constructed on Puget +Sound. This was a 100-ton schooner, and she was built at Oak Harbor. In +1862 he framed two of the first Columbia river steamers. Mrs. Izett is a +sister of Mrs. F. A. Chenoweth, whose husband was a judge, with four +associates, of the first Washington territorial tribunal. Another of the +members was Judge McFadden. Mr. Izett knew well Gen. Isaac I. Stevens, +the first governor of the territory. He came to Washington in the fall +of 1859, and issued his first proclamation as governor the following +February. The legislature met soon after. + + +J. W. MAPLE. + +John Wesley Maple was not only one of the oldest settlers of this (King) +county, but he was one of its most prominent men. He figured to some +extent in political life, but during the last few years had retired to +the homestead by the Duwamish, where his father had settled after +crossing the plains nearly fifty years ago, and where he himself met his +death yesterday. (In March of 1902.) + +He was born in Guernsey county, Ohio, January 1, 1840. As a little boy +he spent his childhood days near the farm of the McKinleys, and often +during his later years he was fond of relating apple stealing +expeditions in which he indulged as a little boy, and for which the +father of the late President McKinley often chastised him. From Ohio his +father, Jacob Maple, moved to Keokuk, Ia., where he lived near the farm +on which Mayor Humes, of Seattle, was reared. + +In 1856, Jacob Maple, the father, and Samuel Maple, the brother of John +W., came to Puget Sound. In 1862 the rest of the family followed them. +In crossing the plains John W. Maple was made captain of the four wagon +trains which were united in the expedition. He guided them to Pendleton, +Ore., where they separated. Thence he came to the Duwamish river, where +his father and brother had settled. + +Later Mr. Maple and Samuel Snyder took up a homestead on Squak slough. A +few years after that Mr. Maple went to Ellensburg. He finally returned +to spend the rest of his life on the homestead. + + +HELD MANY OFFICES. + +In the early days he was several times elected to county offices. He was +at one time supervisor for the road district extending from Yesler way +to O'Brien station and to Renton. In 1896 he was elected treasurer of +King county on the Populist ticket. He furnished a bond of $1,600,000. +At the end of his term a shortage was found. Every cent of this was +finally made good by him to those who stood on his bond. + +In 1897 Mr. Maple received a complimentary vote on the part of several +members of the state legislature for the office of United States +senator. For this office his neighbors indorsed him, and August +Toellnor, of Van Asselt, was sent by them to Olympia to see what could +be done to further the candidacy. Since the end of his term as treasurer +Mr. Maple has held no office, save that of school director in his +district. Only a week ago Mr. Maple announced to his friends that he had +left the Populist party and had returned to the Republican party, to +which he had belonged prior to the wave of Populism which swept over the +West in the early nineties. + +During all of his life he was an ardent student of literature, and he +possessed one of the finest libraries in the state. He was known as a +strong orator, and was during his younger days an exhorter in the +Methodist Protestant church, of which he was a member. + +Mr. Maple was married twice. His first wife, who died more than twenty +years ago, was Elizabeth Snyder, a daughter of Samuel Snyder, one of the +oldest residents of the Duwamish valley. Six children were the fruit of +this union, Charles, Alvin B., Cora, now Mrs. Frank Patten; Dora, now +Mrs. Charles Norwich; Bessie, now dead, and Clifford J. Maple. His +second wife was Minnie Borella. Three children were born to her, +Telford C., Lelah and Beulah Maple. + +Of his brothers and sisters the following are living: Mrs. Katherine Van +Asselt and Mr. Eli B. Maple, of this city; Mrs. Jane Cavanaugh, of +California; Mrs. Elvira Jones and Mrs. Ruth Smith, of Kent, and Aaron +Maple, who now lives on the old Maple homestead in Iowa. + + +CHARLES PROSCH AND THOMAS PROSCH. + +"The summer in which the gold excitement broke out in the Colville +country, in 1855," said Thomas Prosch, "several members of a party of +gold hunters from Seattle were massacred by the Indians in the Yakima +Valley while on their way to the gold fields. The party went through +Snoqualmie Pass in crossing the mountains. The territorial legislature +sent word to Washington and the government undertook to punish the +guilty tribes by a detachment of troops under Maj. Haller. This was +defeated and war followed for several years. It was most violent in King +county in 1855 and 1856, and in Eastern Washington in 1857 and 1858. The +principal incidents in the West were the massacre of the whites in 1855 +and the attack upon Seattle the following year. In 1857 Col. Steptoe +sustained a memorable defeat on the Eastern side of the mountains, and +the hostilities were terminated by the complete annihilation of the +Indian forces in the same locality the following year by Col. Wright. He +killed 1,000 horses and hanged many of the Indians besides the +frightful carnage of the battlefield." + +Mr. Prosch and his father, Charles Prosch, with several other members of +his family, arrived in the state and in Seattle between the years 1849 +and 1857. Gen. M. M. Carver, the founder of Tacoma, who was Mrs. Thomas +Prosch's father, came to the territory in 1843 with Dr. Whitman, who was +massacred, with Applegate and Nesmith. + +Time and strength would fail me did I attempt to obtain and record +accounts of many well known pioneers; I must leave them to other more +capable writers. However, I will briefly mention some who were prominent +during my childhood. + +The Hortons, Dexter Horton and Mrs. Horton, the latter a stout, +rosy-cheeked matron whose house and garden, particularly the dahlias +growing in the yard, elicited my childish admiration. I remember how +certain little pioneer girls were made happy by a visit from her, at +which time she fitted them with her own hands some pretty grey merino +dresses trimmed with narrow black velvet ribbon. Also how one of them +was impressed by the sorrow she could not conceal, the tears ran down +her cheeks as she spoke of a child she had lost. + +One family have never forgotten the Santa Claus visit to their cottage +home, the same being impersonated by Dexter Horton, who departed after +leaving some substantial tokens of his good will. + +The pioneer ministers of the Gospel were among the most fearless of +foundation builders. Reverends Wm. Close, Alderson, Franklin, Doane, +Bagley, Whitworth, Belknap, Greer, Mann, Atwood, Hyland, Prefontaine, +and others; of Rev. C. Alderson, who often visited my father and mother, +Hon. Allen Weir has this to say: + + "I remember very clearly when, during the 'sixties,' Brother + Alderson used to visit the settlement in which my father's family + lived at Dungeness, in Clallam county, Washington Territory. He + was then stationed at White River, twelve miles or more south of + Seattle. There was no Tacoma in those days. To reach Dungeness, + Brother Alderson had to walk over a muddy road a dozen miles or + more to Seattle, then by the old steamer Eliza Anderson to Port + Townsend, and then depend upon an Indian canoe twenty-five miles + to the old postoffice at Elliot Cline's house. After his arrival + it would require several days to get word passed around among the + neighbors so as to get a preaching announcement circulated. + Sometimes he would preach at Mr. Cline's house, sometimes at + Alonzo Davis', and sometimes at my father's. He was literally + blazing the trail where now is an highway. The first announcement + of these services in the Dungeness river bottom was when a + bearded, muddy-booted old bachelor from Long Prairie stopped to + halloo to father and interrupt log piling and stump clearing long + enough to say: 'H-a-y! Mr. Weir! The's a little red-headed + Englishman goin' to preach at Cline's on Sunday! Better go an' + git your conschense limbered up.' Everybody knew the road to + Cline's. At each meeting the audience was limited to the number + of settlers within a dozen miles. All had to attend or proclaim + themselves confirmed heathen. The preacher, who came literally as + the 'Voice of one crying in the wilderness,' was manifestly not + greatly experienced at that time in his work--but he was + intensely earnest, courageous, outspoken, a faithful messenger; + and under his ministrations many were reminded of their old-time + church privileges 'back in old Mizzoory,' in 'Kentuck,' or in + 'Eelinoy,' or elsewhere. I remember that to my boyish imagination + it seemed a wonderful amount of 'grit' was required to carry on + his gospel work. He made an impression as an honest toiler in the + vineyard, and was accepted at par value for his manly qualities. + He was welcomed to the hospitable homes of the people. If we + could not always furnish yellow-legged chickens for dinner we + always had a plentiful supply of bear meat or venison. + + "After Brother Alderson returned to Oregon I never met him again, + except at an annual conference in Albany (in 1876, I think it + was), but I always remembered him kindly as a sturdy soldier of + the Cross who improved his opportunities to administer reproof + and exhortation. The memory is a benediction." + +Of agreeable memory is Mrs. S. D. Libby, to whom the pioneer women were +glad to go for becoming headgear--and the hats were very pretty, too, as +well as the wearers, in those days. Good straw braids were valued and +frequently made over by one who had learned the bleacher's and shaper's +art in far Illinois. + +A little pioneer girl used often to rip the hats to the end that the +braids might be made to take some new and fashionable form. + +"The beautiful Bonney girls," Emmeline, Sarah and Lucy, afterward well +known as Mrs. Shorey, Mrs. G. Kellogg and Mrs. Geo. Harris, might each +give long and interesting accounts of early times. Others I think of are +the John Ross family, whose sons and daughters are among the few native +white children of pioneer families of Seattle (the Ross family were our +nearest neighbors for a long time, and good neighbors they were, too); +the Peter Andrews family, the Maynards, who were among the earliest and +most prominent settlers; Mrs. Maynard did many a kindness to the sick; +the Samuel Coombs family, of whom "Sam Coombs," the patriarch, known to +all, is a great lover and admirer of pioneers; Ray Coombs, his son, the +artist, and Louisa, his daughter, one of the belles of early times; the +L. B. Andrews family; Mr. Andrews was a friend of Grandfather John +Denny, and himself a pioneer of repute; his fair, pleasant, blue-eyed +daughter was my schoolmate at the old U., then new; the Hanfords, valued +citizens, now so distinguished and so well known; Mrs. Hanford's account +of the stirring events of early days was recognized and drawn from by +the historian Bancroft in compiling his great work; the De Lins; the +Burnetts, long known and much esteemed; the Sires family; the Harmons, +Woodins, Campbells, Plummers, Hinds, Weirs of Dungeness, later of +Olympia, of whom Allen Weir is well known and distinguished; yes, and +Port Gamble, Port Madison, Steilacoom and Olympia people, what volumes +upon volumes might have been, might be written--it will take many a +basket to hold the chips to be picked up after their and our _Blazing +the Way_. + + HAIL, AND FAREWELL. + + Heroic Pioneers! + Of kings and conquerors fully peers; + Well may the men of later day + Proclaim your deeds, crown you with bay; + Forest-fallers, reigning kings, + In that far time that memory brings. + Nor savage beast, nor savage man, + Majestic forests' frowning ban, + Could palsy arms or break the hearts, + Till wilds gave way to busy marts; + You served your time and country well, + Let tuneful voices paeans swell! + O, steadfast Pioneers! + Bowed 'neath the snows of many years, + Your patient courage never fails, + Your strong true prayers arise, + E'en from the heavenly trails + To "mansions in the skies." + To noble ones midst daily strife, + And those who've crossed the plains of life, + Far past the fiery, setting sun, + The dead and living loved as one, + (Tolls often now the passing bell) + We greeting give and bid farewell. + + O Mother Pioneers! + We greet you through our smiles and tears; + You laid foundations deep, + Climbed oft the sun-beat rocky steep + Of sorrow's mountain wild, + Descended through the shadowy vales + Led by the little child. + Within, without your cabins rude + As toiling builders well you wrought, + With busy hands and constant hearts, + And eager children wisdom taught; + Long be delayed the passing bell, + Long be it ere we say "Farewell!" + + Beloved Pioneers! + Whom glory waits in coming years, + You planted here with careful hand + The youngest scion in our land + Cut from the tree of Liberty; + To fullest stature it shall grow, + With fruitful branches bending low, + Your worth then shall the people know. + When all your work on earth is done, + Your marches o'er and battles won, + (No more will toll the passing bell) + They'll watch and wait at Heaven's gate + To bid you Hail! and nevermore, Farewell! + + * * * * * + +TRANSCRIBER NOTES: + + Punctuation has been normalized. + + Footnote has been moved closer to its reference. + + Archaic and alternate spellings have been retained with the + exception of those listed below: + + page 19: "intenton" changed to "intention" (It is my intention + to). + + page 19: "desirablity" changed to "desirability" (beauty and + general desirability). + + page 36: "strivinig" changed to "striving" (impotently striving to + stay). + + page 38: "clapsed" changed to "clasped" (how she clasped her + little child). + + page 49: "Capt" changed to "Cape" (around Cape Flattery and up the + Sound). + + page 52: "comformation" changed to "conformation" (and the + conformation of the leg bones). + + page 54: "To" changed to "Too" (Too littlee boat for too muchee + big waters). + + page 61: "of" changed to "off" (the salmon they got off the + Indians). + + page 66: "[A]pheasant'" changed to "[A]pheasant's" (bringing + some wild [A]pheasant's eggs the men). + + page 73: "funiture" changed to "furniture" (the furniture of their + cabin). + + page 74: "buldings" changed to "buildings" (historic buildings + erected and occupied). + + page 79: "to" changed to "too" (where my men go, I go too). + + page 85 and 263: "Klikitats" changed to "Klickitats" to match + spelling using in other places in the book. + + page 86 and 277: "whiskey" changed to "whisky" to match spelling + in other places in the book. + + page 90: "descrtuction" changed to "destruction" (looked + sorrowfully upon the vandal destruction). + + page 103: "wth" changed to "with" (Not yet satisfied with the work + of execution). + + page 114: "exhilirating" changed to "exhilarating" (found to be an + exhilarating pastime). + + page 114: "baloonlike" changed to "balloonlike" (a balloonlike + inflation). + + page 119: "prespiration" changed to "perspiration" (and + perspiration ooze from every pore). + + page 119: "necleus" changed to "nucleus" (to be the nucleus of a + great collection). + + page 129: "isnt'" changed to "isn't" (Well, it isn't yours). + + page 131: "Denny's" changed to "Dennys'" (to and fro in the + Dennys' cottage). + + page 141: "childrens'" changed to "children's" (The children's + graves) + + page 147: "occured" changed to "occurred" (The first occurred when + I was a small child). + + page 149: "well-night" changed to "well-nigh" (its head was + well-nigh severed from its body). + + page 154: "swop" changed to "swap" (so he told the Indian he would + swap his girl). + + page 154: "cattles'" changed to "cattle's" (the cattle's feet + burned) + + page 156: "Taulatin" changed to "Tualatin" (Then we moved out to + the Tualatin Plains). + + page 159: "was" changed to "what" (Arriving at what was called) + + page 164: "already" changed to "all ready" (We were all ready to + start). + + page 169: "hasty-constructed" changed to "hastily-constructed" (to + cross them in hastily-constructed boats). + + page 170: "hardlly" changed to "hardly" (I can hardly imagine how + any one could understand). + + page 210: "convenince" changed to "convenience" (what is their + daily convenience). + + page 240: "withour" changed to "without" (and without murmur). + + page 253: "culumny" changed to "calumny" (humiliation, calumny, + extreme and underserved). + + page 254: "reptitions" changed to "repetitions" (hence there + appear some repetitions). + + page 263: "setlement" changed to "settlement" (the women in the + settlement). + + page 270: "flower-decekd" changed to "flower-decked" + (flower-decked virgin prairie). + + page 276: "shore" changed to "short" (A short time before). + + page 290: "diging" changed to "digging" (digging out "suwellas"). + + page 291: "others" changed to "others'" (best of others' + conclusions). + + page 322: "accidently" changed to "accidentally" (he was + accidentally wounded). + + page 325: "tims" changed to "times" (few of us here in those early + times). + + page 357: "obejct" changed to "object" (And man's the object of + His constant care). + + page 360: "have" added to text (and would, if living, have made). + + page 361: "pollysyllabic" changed to "polysyllabic" (polysyllabic + language not more like). + + page 363: "explantion" changed to "explanation" (an explanation of + his mission). + + page 366: "rememben" changed to "remember" (but I do not remember + any). + + page 384: "supose" changed to "suppose" (Don't you suppose I can). + + page 390: "rythmic" changed to "rhythmic" (Fills our pulses + rhythmic beat). + + page 393: "protuded" changed to "protruded" (their feet protruded + below). + + page 412: "Or." changed to "Ore." for consistency (Columbia county, + Ore.) + + page 422: "tself" changed to "itself" (and had buried itself in + the earth). + + page 423: "ecstacy" changed to "ecstasy" (in a mute ecstasy of + mellow satisfaction). + + page 424: "Atkin" changed to "Atkins" (Dick Atkins). + + page 432: "orothodoxy" changed to "orthodoxy" ('my orthodoxy has + been a little shaky of late). + + page 453: "hundrd" changed to "hundred" (at three hundred and + sixteen dollars per acre). + + page 454: "foolhardly" changed to "foolhardy" (he was simply + foolhardy). + + page 455: "finishishing" changed to "finishing" (while the white + pin of the finishing). + + page 482: "the the" changed to "the" (and the family moved in). + + page 488: "childred" changed to "children" (their children never + realized). + + page 499: "massacreed" changed to "massacred" (who was massacred). + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Blazing The Way, by Emily Inez Denny + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BLAZING THE WAY *** + +***** This file should be named 39334.txt or 39334.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/9/3/3/39334/ + +Produced by Mark C. 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