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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Walks in Rome, by Augustus J.C. Hare
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
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+
+Title: Walks in Rome
+
+Author: Augustus J.C. Hare
+
+Release Date: March 29, 2012 [EBook #39308]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
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+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WALKS IN ROME ***
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+Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was
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+
+WALKS IN ROME
+
+TWO VOLS.--I.
+
+
+
+
+    WALKS IN ROME
+
+    BY AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE
+
+    AUTHOR OF "MEMORIALS OF A QUIET LIFE," "WANDERINGS IN SPAIN," ETC.
+
+    TWO VOLUMES.--I.
+
+    _FIFTH EDITION_
+
+    LONDON
+    DALDY, ISBISTER & CO.
+    56, LUDGATE HILL
+    1875
+
+    [_All rights reserved_]
+
+JOHN CHILDS AND SON, PRINTERS.
+
+    TO
+    HIS DEAR MOTHER
+    THE CONSTANT COMPANION OF MANY ROMAN WINTERS
+    These pages are Dedicated
+
+    BY THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+    INTRODUCTORY.
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+    THE ARRIVAL IN ROME                                                9
+
+    CHAPTER I.
+
+    DULL-USEFUL INFORMATION                                           27
+
+    CHAPTER II.
+
+    THE CORSO AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD                                   36
+
+    CHAPTER III.
+
+    THE CAPITOLINE                                                   109
+
+    CHAPTER IV.
+
+    THE FORUMS AND THE COLISEUM                                      159
+
+    CHAPTER V.
+
+    THE VELABRUM AND THE GHETTO                                      221
+
+    CHAPTER VI.
+
+    THE PALATINE                                                     273
+
+    CHAPTER VII.
+
+    THE COELIAN                                                      316
+
+    CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    THE AVENTINE                                                     348
+
+    CHAPTER IX.
+
+    THE VIA APPIA                                                    372
+
+    CHAPTER X.
+
+    THE QUIRINAL AND VIMINAL                                         433
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY.
+
+THE ARRIVAL IN ROME.
+
+
+"Again this date of Rome; the most solemn and interesting that my hand
+can ever write, and even now more interesting than when I saw it last,"
+wrote Dr. Arnold to his wife in 1840--and how many thousands before and
+since have experienced the same feeling, who have looked forward to a
+visit to Rome as one of the great events of their lives, as the
+realization of the dreams and longings of many years.
+
+An arrival in Rome is very different to that in any other town of
+Europe. It is coming to a place new and yet most familiar, strange and
+yet so well known. When travellers arrive at Verona, for instance, or at
+Arles, they generally go to the amphitheatres with a curiosity to know
+what they are like; but when they arrive at Rome and go to the Coliseum,
+it is to visit an object whose appearance has been familiar to them from
+childhood, and, long ere it is reached, from the heights of the distant
+Capitol, they can recognize the well-known form;--and as regards St.
+Peter's, who is not familiar with the aspect of the dome, of the
+wide-spreading piazza, and the foaming fountains, for long years before
+they come to gaze upon the reality?
+
+"My presentiment of the emotions with which I should behold the Roman
+ruins, has proved quite correct," wrote Niebuhr. "Nothing about them is
+new to me; as a child I lay so often, for hours together, before their
+pictures, that their images were, even at that early age, as distinctly
+impressed upon my mind, as if I had actually seen them."
+
+Yet, in spite of the presence of old friends and landmarks, travellers
+who pay a hurried visit to Rome, are bewildered by the vast mass of
+interest before them, by the endless labyrinth of minor objects, which
+they desire, or, still oftener, feel it a duty, to visit. Their Murray,
+their Baedeker, and their Bradshaw indicate appalling lists of churches,
+temples, and villas which ought to be seen, but do not distribute them
+in a manner which will render their inspection more easy. The promised
+pleasure seems rapidly to change into an endless vista of labour to be
+fulfilled and of fatigue to be gone through; henceforward the hours
+spent at Rome are rather hours of endurance than of pleasure--his
+_cicerone_ drags the traveller in one direction,--his antiquarian
+friend, his artistic acquaintance, would fain drag him in others,--he is
+confused by accumulated misty glimmerings from historical facts once
+learnt at school, but long since forgotten,--of artistic information,
+which he feels that he ought to have gleaned from years of society, but
+which, from want of use, has never made any depth of impression,--by
+shadowy ideas as to the story of this king and that emperor, of this
+pope and that saint, which, from insufficient time, and the absence of
+books of reference, he has no opportunity of clearing up. It is
+therefore in the hope of aiding some of these bewildered ones, and of
+rendering their walks in Rome more easy and more interesting, that the
+following chapters are written. They aim at nothing original, and are
+only a gathering up of the information of others, and a gleaning from
+what has been already given to the world in a far better and fuller, but
+less portable form; while, in their plan, they attempt to guide the
+traveller in his daily wanderings through the city and its suburbs.
+
+It must not, however, be supposed, that one short residence at Rome will
+be sufficient to make a foreigner acquainted with all its varied
+treasures; or even, in most cases, that its attractions will become
+apparent to the passing stranger. The squalid appearance of its modern
+streets, the filth of its beggars, the inconveniences of its daily life,
+will leave an impression which will go far to neutralize the effect of
+its ancient buildings, and the grandeur of its historic recollections.
+It is only by returning again and again, by allowing the _feeling_ of
+Rome to gain upon you, when you have constantly revisited the same view,
+the same temple, the same picture, that Rome engraves itself upon your
+heart, and changes from a disagreeable, unwholesome acquaintance, into a
+dear and intimate friend, seldom long absent from your thoughts.
+"Whoever," said Chateaubriand, "has nothing else left in life, should
+come to live in Rome; there he will find for society a land which will
+nourish his reflections, walks which will always tell him something new.
+The stone which crumbles under his feet will speak to him, and even the
+dust which the wind raises under his footsteps will seem to bear with it
+something of human grandeur."
+
+"When we have once known Rome," wrote Hawthorne, "and left her where she
+lies, like a long-decaying corpse, retaining a trace of the noble shape
+it was, but with accumulated dust and a fungous growth overspreading all
+its more admirable features--left her in utter weariness, no doubt, of
+her narrow, crooked, intricate streets, so uncomfortably paved with
+little squares of lava that to tread over them is a penitential
+pilgrimage; so indescribably ugly, moreover, so cold, so alley-like,
+into which the sun never falls, and where a chill wind forces its deadly
+breath into our lungs--left her, tired of the sight of those immense
+seven-storied, yellow-washed hovels, or call them palaces, where all
+that is dreary in domestic life seems magnified and multiplied, and
+weary of climbing those staircases which ascend from a ground-floor of
+cook-shops, cobblers'-stalls, stables, and regiments of cavalry, to a
+middle region of princes, cardinals, and ambassadors, and an upper tier
+of artists, just beneath the unattainable sky,--left her, worn out with
+shivering at the cheerless and smoky fireside by day, and feasting with
+our own substance the ravenous population of a Roman bed at night, left
+her sick at heart of Italian trickery, which has uprooted whatever faith
+in man's integrity had endured till now, and sick at stomach of sour
+bread, sour wine, rancid butter, and bad cookery, needlessly bestowed on
+evil meats,--left her, disgusted with the pretence of holiness and the
+reality of nastiness, each equally omnipresent,--left her, half lifeless
+from the languid atmosphere, the vital principle of which has been used
+up long ago or corrupted by myriads of slaughters,--left her, crushed
+down in spirit by the desolation of her ruin, and the hopelessness of
+her future,--left her, in short, hating her with all our might, and
+adding our individual curse to the infinite anathema which her old
+crimes have unmistakeably brought down:--when we have left Rome in such
+mood as this, we are astonished by the discovery, by-and-by, that our
+heartstrings have mysteriously attached themselves to the Eternal City,
+and are drawing us thitherward again, as if it were more familiar, more
+intimately our home, than even the spot where we were born."
+
+This is the attractive and sympathetic power of Rome which Byron so
+fully appreciated--
+
+      "Oh Rome my country! city of the soul!
+      The orphans of the heart must turn to thee,
+      Lone mother of dead empires! and controul
+      In their shut breasts their petty misery.
+      What are our woes and sufferance? Come and see
+      The cypress, hear the owl, and plod your way
+      O'er steps of broken thrones and temples. Ye!
+      Whose agonies are evils of a day--
+    A world is at our feet as fragile as our clay.
+
+      "The Niobe of nations! there she stands
+      Childless and crownless, in her voiceless woe;
+      An empty urn within her withered hands,
+      Whose sacred dust was scattered long ago;
+      The Scipios' tomb contains no ashes now;
+      The very sepulchres lie tenantless
+      Of their heroic dwellers: dost thou flow,
+      Old Tiber! through a marble wilderness?
+    Rise, with thy yellow waves, and mantle her distress!"
+
+The impressiveness of an arrival at the Eternal City was formerly
+enhanced by the solemn singularity of the country through which it was
+slowly approached. "Those who arrive at Rome now by the railway," says
+Mrs. Craven in her 'Anne Severin,' "and rush like a whirlwind into a
+station, which has nothing in its first aspect to distinguish it from
+that of one of the most obscure places in the world, cannot imagine the
+effect which the words 'Ecco Roma' formerly produced, when on arriving
+at the point in the road from which the Eternal City could be descried
+for the first time, the postillion stopped his horses, and pointing it
+out to the traveller in the distance, pronounced them with that Roman
+accent which is grave and sonorous, as the name of Rome itself."
+
+"How pleasing," says Cardinal Wiseman, "was the usual indication to
+early travellers, by voice and outstretched whip, embodied in the
+well-known exclamation of every vetturino, 'Ecco Roma.' To one 'lasso
+maris et viarum,' like Horace, these words brought the first promise of
+approaching rest. A few more miles of weary hills, every one of which,
+from its summit, gave a more swelling and majestic outline to what so
+far constituted 'Roma,' that is, the great cupola, not of the church,
+but of the city, its only discernible part, cutting, like a huge peak,
+into the dear winter sky, and the long journey was ended, and ended by
+the full realization of well-cherished hopes."
+
+Most travellers, perhaps, in the old days came by sea from Marseilles
+and arrived from Civita Vecchia, by the dreary road which leads through
+Palo, and near the base of the hills upon which stands Cervetri, the
+ancient Cære, from the junction of whose name and customs the word
+"ceremony" has arisen,--so especially useful in the great neighbouring
+city. "This road from Civita Vecchia," writes Miss Edwards, the talented
+authoress of 'Barbara's History,' "lies among shapeless hillocks, shaggy
+with bush and briar. Far away on one side gleams a line of soft blue
+sea--on the other lie mountains as blue, but not more distant. Not a
+sound stirs the stagnant air. Not a tree, not a housetop, breaks the
+wide monotony. The dust lies beneath the wheels like a carpet, and
+follows like a cloud. The grass is yellow, the weeds are parched; and
+where there have been wayside pools, the ground is cracked and dry. Now
+we pass a crumbling fragment of something that may have been a tomb or
+temple, centuries ago. Now we come upon a little wide-eyed peasant boy,
+keeping goats among the ruins, like Giotto of old. Presently a buffalo
+lifts his black mane above the neighbouring hillock, and rushes away
+before we can do more than point to the spot on which we saw it. Thus
+the day attains its noon, and the sun hangs overhead like a brazen
+shield, brilliant, but cold. Thus, too, we reach the brow of a long and
+steep ascent, where our driver pulls up to rest his weary beasts. The
+sea has now faded almost out of sight; the mountains look larger and
+nearer, with streaks of snow upon their summits, the Campagna reaches on
+and on and shows no sign of limit or of verdure,--while, in the midst of
+the clear air, half way, so it would seem, between you and the purple
+Sabine range, rises one solemn solitary dome. Can it be the dome of St.
+Peter's?"
+
+The great feature of the Civita Vecchia route was that after all the
+utter desolation and dreariness of many miles of the least interesting
+part of the Campagna, the traveller was almost stunned by the
+transition, when on suddenly passing the Porta Cavalleggieri, he found
+himself in the Piazza, of St. Peter's, with its wide-spreading
+colonnades, and high-springing fountains; indeed the first building he
+saw was St. Peter's, the first house that of the Pope, the palace of the
+Vatican. But the more gradual approach by land from Viterbo and Tuscany
+possessed equal if not superior interest.
+
+"When we turned the summit above Viterbo," wrote Dr. Arnold, "and opened
+on the view on the other side, it might be called the first approach to
+Rome. At the distance of more than forty miles, it was of course
+impossible to see the town, and besides the distance was hazy; but we
+were looking on the scene of the Roman history; we were standing on the
+outward edge of the frame of the great picture, and though the features
+of it were not to be traced distinctly, yet we had the consciousness
+that they were before us. Here, too, we first saw the Mediterranean, the
+Alban hills, I think, in the remote distance, and just beneath us, on
+the left, Soracte, an outlier of the Apennines, which has got to the
+right bank of the Tiber, and stands out by itself most magnificently.
+Close under us in front, was the Ciminian lake, the crater of an extinct
+volcano, surrounded as they all are, with their basin of wooded hills,
+and lying like a beautiful mirror stretched out before us. Then there
+was the grand beauty of Italian scenery, the depth of the valleys, the
+endless variety of the mountain outline, and the towns perched upon the
+mountain summits, and this now seen under a mottled sky, which threw an
+ever-varying light and shadow over the valley beneath, and all the
+freshness of the young spring. We descended along one of the rims of
+this lake to Ronciglione, and from thence, still descending on the
+whole, to Monterosi. Here the famous Campagna begins, and it certainly
+is one of the most striking tracts of country I ever beheld. It is by no
+means a perfect flat, except between Rome and the sea; but rather like
+the Bagshot Heath country, ridges of hills with intermediate valleys,
+and the road often running between high steep banks, and sometimes
+crossing sluggish streams sunk in a deep bed. All these banks are
+overgrown with broom, now in full flower; and the same plant was
+luxuriant everywhere. There seemed no apparent reason why the country
+should be so desolate; the grass was growing richly everywhere. There
+was no marsh anywhere visible, but all looked as fresh and healthy as
+any of our chalk downs in England. But it is a wide wilderness; no
+villages, scarcely any houses, and here and there a lonely ruin of a
+single square tower, which I suppose used to serve as strongholds for
+men and cattle in the plundering warfare in the middle ages. It was
+after crowning the top of one of these lines of hills, a little on the
+Roman side of Baccano, at five minutes after six, according to my watch,
+that we had the first view of Rome itself. I expected to see St. Peter's
+rising above the line of the horizon, as York Minster does, but instead
+of that, it was within the horizon, and so was much less conspicuous,
+and from the nature of the ground, it looked mean and stumpy. Nothing
+else marked the site of the city, but the trees of the gardens and a
+number of white villas specking the opposite bank of the Tiber for some
+little distance above the town, and then suddenly ceasing. But the whole
+scene that burst upon our view, when taken in all its parts, was most
+interesting. Full in front rose the Alban hills, the white villas on
+their sides distinctly visible, even at that distance, which was more
+than thirty miles. On the left were the Apennines, and Tivoli was
+distinctly to be seen on the summit of its mountain, on one of the
+lowest and nearest parts of the chain. On the right and all before us
+lay the Campagna, whose perfectly level outline was succeeded by that of
+the sea, which was scarcely more so. It began now to get dark, and as
+there is hardly any twilight, it was dark soon after we left La Storta,
+the last post before you enter Rome. The air blew fresh and cool, and we
+had a pleasant drive over the remaining part of the Campagna, till we
+descended into the valley of the Tiber, and crossed it by the Milvian
+bridge. About two miles further on we reached the walls of Rome, and
+entered it by the Porta del Popolo."
+
+Niebuhr coming the same way says:--"It was with solemn feelings that
+this morning from the barren heights of the moory Campagna, I first
+caught sight of the cupola of St. Peter's, and then of the city from the
+bridge, where all the majesty of her buildings and her history seems to
+lie spread out before the eye of the stranger; and afterwards entered by
+the Porta del Popolo."
+
+Madame de Staël gives us the impression which the same subject would
+produce on a different type of character:--
+
+"Le comte d'Erfeuil faisait de comiques lamentations sur les environs de
+Rome. Quoi, disait-il, point de maison de campagne, point de voiture,
+rien qui annonce le voisinage d'une grande ville! Ah! bon Dieu, quelle
+tristesse! En approchant de Rome, les postillons s'écrièrent avec
+transport: _Voyez, voyez, c'est la coupole de Saint-Pierre!_ Les
+Napolitains montrent aussi le Vésuve; et la mer fait de même l'orgueil
+des habitans des côtes. On croirait voir le dôme des Invalides, s'écria
+le comte d'Erfeuil."
+
+It was by this approach that most of its distinguished pilgrims have
+entered the capital of the Catholic world: monks, who came hither to
+obtain the foundation of their Orders; saints, who thirsted to worship
+at the shrines of their predecessors, or who came to receive the crown
+of martyrdom; priests and bishops from distant lands,--many coming in
+turn to receive here the highest dignity which Christendom could offer;
+kings and emperors, to ask coronation at the hands of the reigning
+pontiff; and among all these, came by this road, in the full fervour of
+Catholic enthusiasm, Martin Luther, the future enemy of Rome, then its
+devoted adherent. "When Luther came to Rome," says Ampère, in his
+'Portraits de Rome à Divers Ages,' "the future reformer was a young
+monk, obscure and fervent; he had no presentiment, when he set foot in
+the great Babylon, that ten years later he would burn the bull of the
+Pope in the public square of Wittenberg. His heart experienced nothing
+but pious emotions; he addressed to Rome in salutation the ancient hymn
+of the pilgrims; he cried, 'I salute thee, O holy Rome, Rome venerable
+through the blood and the tombs of the martyrs.' But after having
+prostrated on the threshold, he raised himself, he entered into the
+temple, he did not find the God he looked for; the city of the saints
+and martyrs was a city of murderers and prostitutes. The arts which
+marked this corruption were powerless over the stolid senses, and
+scandalised the austere spirit of the German monk; he scarcely gave a
+passing glance at the ruins of pagan Rome;--and inwardly horrified by
+all that he saw, he quitted Rome in a frame of mind very different from
+that which he brought with him; he knelt then with the devotion of the
+pilgrims, now he returned in a disposition like that of the _frondeurs_
+of the Middle Ages, but more serious than theirs. This Rome of which he
+had been the dupe, and concerning which he was disabused, should hear of
+him again; the day would come when, amid the merry toasts at his table,
+he would cry three times, 'I would not have missed going to Rome for a
+thousand florins, for I should always have been uneasy lest I should
+have been rendering injustice to the Pope.'"
+
+When one is in Rome life seems to be free from many of the petty
+troubles which beset it in other places; there is no foreign town which
+offers so many comforts and advantages to its English visitors. The
+hotels, indeed, are enormously expensive, and the rent of apartments is
+high; but when the latter is once paid, living is rather cheap than
+otherwise, especially for those who do not object to dine from a
+_trattoria_, and to drive in hackney carriages.
+
+The climate of Rome is very variable. If the _sirocco_ blows, it is mild
+and very relaxing; but the winters are more apt to be subject to the
+severe cold of the _tramontana_, which requires even greater precaution
+and care than that of an English winter. Nothing can be more mistaken
+than the impression that those who go to Italy are sure to find there a
+mild and congenial temperature. The climate of Rome has been subject to
+severity, even from the earliest times of its history. Dionysius speaks
+of one year in the time of the republic when the snow at Rome lay seven
+feet deep, and many men and cattle died of the cold.[1] Another year,
+the snow lay for forty days, trees perished, and cattle died of
+hunger.[2] Present times are a great improvement on these: snow seldom
+lies upon the ground for many hours together, and the beautiful
+fountains of the city are only hung with icicles long enough to allow
+the photographers to represent them thus; but still the climate is not
+to be trifled with, and violent transitions from the hot sunshine to the
+cold shade of the streets often prove fatal. "No one but dogs and
+Englishmen," say the Romans, "ever walk in the sun."
+
+The _malaria_, which is so much dreaded by the natives, lies dormant
+during the winter months, and seldom affects strangers, unless they are
+inordinately imprudent in sitting out in the sunset. With the heats of
+the late summer this insidious ague-fever is apt to follow on the
+slightest exertion, and particularly to overwhelm those who are employed
+in field labour. From June to November the Villa Borghese and the Villa
+Doria are uninhabitable, and the more deserted hills--the Coelian, the
+Aventine, and the greater part of the Esquiline,--are a constant prey to
+fever. The malaria, however, flies before a crowd of human life, and the
+Ghetto, which teems with inhabitants, is perfectly free from it. In the
+Campagna,--with the exception of Porto d'Anzio, which has always been
+healthy,--no town or village is safe after the month of August, and to
+this cause the utter desolation of so many formerly populous sites
+(especially those of Veii and Galera) may be attributed:--
+
+    "Roma, vorax hominum, domat ardua colla virorum;
+    Roma, ferax febrium, necis est uberrima frugum:
+    Romanæ febres stabili sunt jure fideles."
+
+Thus wrote Peter Damian in the 10th century, and those who refuse to be
+on their guard will find it so still.
+
+The greatest risk at Rome is incurred by those who, coming out of the
+hot sunshine, spend long hours in the Vatican and the other galleries,
+which are filled with a deadly chill during the winter months. As March
+comes on this chill wears away, and in April and May the temperature of
+the galleries is delightful, and it is impossible to find a more
+agreeable retreat. It is in the hope of inducing strangers to spend more
+time in the study of these wonderful museums, and of giving additional
+interest to the hours which are passed there, that so much is said about
+their contents in these volumes. As far as possible it has been desired
+to evade any mere catalogue of their collections,--so that no mention
+has been made of objects which possess inferior artistic or historical
+interest; while by introducing anecdotes connected with those to which
+attention is drawn, or by quoting the opinion of some good authority
+concerning them, an endeavour has been made to fix them in the
+recollection.
+
+So much has been written about Rome, that in quoting from the remarks of
+others the great difficulty has been selection,--and the rule has been
+followed that the most learned books are not always the most instructive
+or the most interesting. No endeavour has been made to enter into deep
+archæological questions,--to define the exact limits of the Walls of
+Servius Tullius,--or to hazard a fresh opinion as to how the earth
+accumulated in the Roman Forum, or whence the pottery came, out of which
+the Monte Testaccio has arisen; but it has rather been sought to gather
+up and present to the reader such a succession of word pictures from
+various authors, as may not only make the scenes of Rome more
+interesting at the time, but may deepen their impression afterwards.
+This was the work which the late illustrious M. Ampère intended to carry
+out, and which he would have done so much better and more fully.
+
+From the experience of many years the writer can truly say that the more
+intimately these scenes become known, the more deeply they become
+engraven upon the inmost affections. Rome, as Goethe truly says, "is a
+world, and it takes years to find oneself at home in it." It is not a
+hurried visit to the Coliseum, with guide book and cicerone, which will
+enable one to drink in the fulness of its beauty; but a long and
+familiar friendship with its solemn walls, in the ever-varying grandeur
+of golden sunlight and grey shadow--till, after many days'
+companionship, its stones become dear as those of no other building ever
+can be;--and it is not a rapid inspection of the huge cheerless
+basilicas and churches, with their gaudy marbles and gilded ceilings and
+ill-suited monuments, which arouses your sympathy; but the long
+investigation of their precious fragments of ancient cloister, and
+sculptured fountain,--of mouldering fresco, and mediæval tomb,--of
+mosaic-crowned gateway, and palm-shadowed garden;--and the
+gradually-acquired knowledge of the wondrous story which clings around
+each of these ancient things, and which tells how each has a motive and
+meaning entirely unsuspected and unseen by the passing eye.
+
+The immense extent of Rome, and the wide distances to be traversed
+between its different ruins and churches, is in itself a sufficient
+reason for devoting more time to it than to the other cities of Italy.
+Surprise will doubtless be felt that so few pagan ruins remain,
+considering the enormous number which are known to have existed even
+down to a comparatively late period. A monumental record of A.D. 540,
+published by Cardinal Mai, mentions 324 streets, 2 capitols--the
+Tarpeian and that on the Quirinal,--80 gilt statues of the gods (only
+the Hercules remains), 66 ivory statues of the gods, 46,608 houses,
+17,097 palaces, 13,052 fountains, 3785 statues of emperors and generals
+in bronze, 22 great equestrian statues of bronze (only Marcus Aurelius
+remains), 2 colossi (Marcus Aurelius and Trajan), 9026 baths, 31
+theatres, and 8 amphitheatres!
+
+It is impossible to speak too highly of the facilities afforded to
+strangers for seeing and enjoying everything, especially by the Roman
+nobility. The beautiful grounds of the Villa Borghese and the Villa
+Doria appear to be kept up at an enormous expense, solely for the use
+and pleasure of the public, and almost all the palaces and collections
+are thrown open on fixed days with unequalled liberality. In almost all
+these galleries, museums, and gardens the stranger is permitted to
+wander about and linger as he pleases, entirely unmolested by officious
+servants and ignorant _ciceroni_.
+
+Those will enjoy Rome most who have studied it thoroughly before leaving
+their own homes. In the multiplicity of engagements in which a foreigner
+is soon involved, there is little time for historical research, and few
+are able to do more than "read up their Murray," so that half the
+pleasure and all the advantage of a visit to Rome are thrown away: while
+those who arrive with the foundation already prepared, easily and
+naturally acquire, amid the scenes around which the history of the world
+revolved, an amount of information which will be astonishing even to
+themselves. "People out of Rome," says Goethe, "have no idea how one is
+_schooled_ there;" but then, as the author of 'Vera' remarks, "that is
+true of Rome, which Madame Swetchine said of life, viz. that you find
+exactly what you put into it."
+
+The pagan monuments of Rome have been written of and discussed ever
+since they were built, and the catacombs have lately found historians
+and guides both able and willing,--about the later Christian monuments
+far less has hitherto been said. In English, except in the immense
+collection of interest which is imbedded in the works of Hemans, and in
+the few beautiful notices of some of the early martyrs by Mrs. Jameson,
+very little has been written; in French there is far more. There is a
+natural shrinking in the English Protestant mind from all that is
+connected with the story of the saints,--especially the later saints of
+the Roman Catholic Church. Many believe, with Addison, "that the
+Christian antiquities are so embroiled in fable and legend, that one
+derives but little satisfaction from searching into them." And yet, as
+Mrs. Jameson observes, when all that the controversialist can desire is
+taken away from the reminiscences of those, who to the Roman Catholic
+mind have consecrated the homes of their earthly life, how much
+remains!--"so much to awaken, to elevate, to touch the heart;--so much
+that will not fade from the memory, so much that may make a part of our
+after-life."
+
+No attempt has been made in these pages to describe the country round
+Rome, beyond a few of the most ordinary drives and excursions outside
+the walls. The opening of the railways to Naples and Civita Vecchia have
+now brought a vast variety of new excursions within the range of a
+day's expedition--and the papal citadel of Anagni, the temples of Cori,
+the cyclopean remains of Segni, Alatri, Norba, Cervetri, and Corneto,
+and the wild heights of Soracte, will probably ere long become as well
+known as the oft-visited Tivoli, Ostia, and Albano. It is intended to
+supplement these "Walks in Rome" by a similar volume of "Excursions
+round Rome."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+DULL-USEFUL INFORMATION.
+
+
+     _Hotels._--For passing travellers or bachelors, the best are: Hotel
+     d'Angleterre, Bocca di Leone; Hotel de Rome, Corso. For families,
+     or for a long residence: Hotel des Iles Britanniques, Piazza del
+     Popolo; Hotel de Russie (close to the last), Via Babuino; Hotel de
+     Londres, and Hotel Europa, Piazza di Spagna; Hotel Costanzi, Via S.
+     Nicolo in Tolentino, in a high airy situation towards the
+     railway-station, and very comfortable and well managed, but further
+     from the sights of Rome. Less expensive, are: Hotel d'Allemagne,
+     Via Condotti; Hotel Vittoria, Via Due Macelli; Hotel d'Italie, Via
+     Quattro Fontane; Hotel della Pace, 8 Via Felice; Hotel Minerva,
+     Piazza della Minerva, very near the Pantheon. A large new hotel is
+     the "Quirinale," in the Via Nazionale.
+
+     _Pensions_ are much wanted in Rome. The best are those of Miss
+     Smith and Madame Tellenbach, in the Piazza di Spagna; Pension Suez,
+     Via S. Nicolo in Tolentino; and the small Hotel du Sud, in the Capo
+     le Case.
+
+     _Apartments_ have lately greatly increased in price. An apartment
+     for a very small family in one of the best situations can seldom be
+     obtained for less than 300 to 500 francs a month. The English
+     almost all prefer to reside in the neighbourhood of the Piazza di
+     Spagna. The best situations are the sunny side of the Piazza
+     itself, the Trinità de' Monti, the Via Gregoriana, and Via Sistina.
+     Less good situations are, the Corso, Via Condotti, Via Due Macelli,
+     Via Frattina, Capo le Case, Via Felice, Via Quattro Fontane, Via
+     Babuino, and Via delle Croce,--in which last, however, are many
+     very good apartments. On the other side of the Corso suites of
+     rooms are much less expensive, but they are less convenient for
+     persons who make a short residence in Rome. In many of the palaces
+     are large apartments which are let by the year.
+
+     _Trattorie_ (Restaurants) send out dinners to families in
+     apartments in a tin box with a stove, for which the bearer calls
+     the next morning. A dinner for six francs ought to be amply
+     sufficient for three persons, and to leave enough for luncheon the
+     next day. _Restaurants_ where luncheons or dinners may be obtained
+     upon the spot, are those of Bedeau, Via della Croce, and Nazzari,
+     Piazza di Spagna. Those who wish for a real Roman dinner of
+     Porcupine, Hedgehog, and other such delicacies, find it at the
+     Falcone, where Ariosto used to lodge when in Rome.
+
+     _English Church._--Just outside the Porta del Popolo, on the left.
+     Services at 9 A.M., 11 A.M., and 3 P.M. on Sundays; daily service
+     twice on week-days. The _American Church_ is in the same building,
+     with an entrance further on.
+
+     _Post Office._--In the Piazza Colonna. The English mail leaves
+     daily at 8 P.M.
+
+     _Telegraph Office._--121 Piazza Monte-Citorio. A telegraph of 20
+     words to England, including name and address, costs 11 francs.
+
+     _Bankers._--Hooker, 20 Piazza di Spagna; Macbean, 378 Corso;
+     Plowden, 50 Via Mercede; Spada and Flamini, 20 Via Condotti.
+
+     _For sending Boxes to England._--Welby, Strada Papala. (His agents
+     in London, Messrs. Scott, 11 King William St.)
+
+     _English Doctors._--Dr. Grigor, 3 Pa di Spagna; Dr. Small, 56 Via
+     Babuino; Dr. Gason, 82 Via della Croce. _German_: Dr. Taussig, 144
+     Via Babuino. _American_: Dr. Gould, 107 Via Babuino. _Italian_: Dr.
+     Valeri, 138 Via Babuino.
+
+     _Homoeopathic Doctor._--Dr. Liberali, 69 Via della Frezza.
+
+     _Dentist._--Dr. Parmby, 93 Piazza di Spagna.
+
+     _Sick-nurses._--Mrs. Meyer, 44 Via delle Carozze; the Nuns of the
+     Bon-Secours at the convent in the Via del Banchi.
+
+     _Chemists._--English Pharmacy, 498 Corso; Sininberghi, 134 Via
+     Frattina; and Borioni, Via Babuino, are those usually employed by
+     the English; but the chemists' shops in the Corso are as good, and
+     much less expensive.
+
+_English House Agent._--Shea, 11 Piazza di Spagna.
+
+_English Livery Stables._--Jarrett, 3 Piazza del Popolo; Ranucci, Vicolo
+Aliberti.
+
+_Circulating Library._--Piale, 1, 2, Piazza di Spagna.
+
+_Booksellers._--Monaldini, Piazza di Spagna; Spithover, Piazza di
+Spagna; Bocca, 216 Corso; Loesther, 346 Corso.
+
+_Italian Masters._--Vannini, 31 Via Condotti (in the summer at the Bagni
+di Lucca); Monachesi (a Roman), 8 Via S. Sebastianello; Gordini, 374
+Corso; N. Lucantini, 17 Via della Stamperia.
+
+_Photographers.--For views of Rome._--Watson, Via Babuino; Macpherson,
+12 Vicolo Aliberti; Mang, 104 Via Felice; Anderson (his photographs sold
+at Spithover's); Joseph Phelps, 169 Via Babuino; Maggi, 329 Corso. _For
+Artistic Bits_, very much to be recommended, De Bonis, 11 Via Felice.
+_For Portraits_.--Suscipi, 48 Via Condotti (the best for medallions);
+Alessandri, 12 Corso (excellent for Cartes de Visite); Lais, 57 Via del
+Campo-Marzo; Ferretti, 50 Via Sta. Maria in Via.
+
+_Drawing Materials._--Dovizelli, 136 Via Babuino; Corteselli, 150 Via
+Felice. For commoner articles and stationery, the "Cartoleria," 214
+Corso, opposite the Piazza Colonna.
+
+_Engravings._--At the Stamperia Nazionale (fixed prices), 6 Via della
+Stamperia, near the fountain of Trevi.
+
+_Antiquities._--Depoletti, 31 Via Fontanella Borghese; Innocenti, 118
+Via Frattina; Santelli, 141 Via Frattina; Capobianchi, 152 Via Babuino.
+
+_Bronzes._--Röhrich, 104 Via Sistina; Chiapanelli, 92 Via Babuino;
+Dressler, 17 Via Due Macelli.
+
+_Cameos._--Saulini, 96 Via Babuino; Neri, 72 Via Babuino.
+
+_Mosaics._--Rinaldi, 125 Via Babuino; Boschetti, 74 Via Condotti.
+
+_Jewellers._--Castellani, 88 Via Poli (closed from 12 to 1), very
+beautiful, but very expensive; Pierret, 20 Piazza di Spagna; Innocenti,
+33 Piazza Trinità de' Monti.
+
+_Roman Pearls._--Rey, 122 Via Babuino; Lacchini, 70 Via Condotti.
+
+_Bookbinder._--Olivieri, 1 Via Frattina.
+
+_Engraver._--(For visiting cards, &c.), Martelli, 139 Via Frattina.
+
+_Tailors._--Mattina (the "Poole" of Rome), Corso, opposite S. Carlo,
+entrance 2 Via delle Carozze; Vai, 60 Piazza di Spagna; Reanda, 61
+Piazza. S. Apostoli; Evert, 77 Piazza Borghese.
+
+_Shoemakers._--Rubini, 223 Corso (none good).
+
+_Dressmaker._--Clarisse, 166 Corso.
+
+_Shops for Ladies' Dress._--Massoni, Palazzo Simonetti; the Ville de
+Lyon, 48 Via dei Prefetti (behind S. Lorenzo in Lucina); Sebastiani, 8
+Via del Campo-Marzo; Giovannetti, 50 to 53 Campo-Marzo.
+
+_Roman Ribbons and Shawls._--Arvotti, 66 Piazza Madama (fixed prices);
+Bianchi, 82 Via della Minerva.
+
+_Gloves._--Cremonesi, 420 Corso; 4 Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina.
+
+_Carpets and small Household Articles._--Cagiati, 250 Corso.
+
+_German Baker._--Colalucci, 88 Via della Croce (excellent).
+
+_English Grocer._--Lowe, 76 Piazza di Spagna.
+
+_Italian Grocer and Wine Merchant._--Giacosa, Via della Maddalena.
+
+_Oil, Candles and Wood, &c._--Luigioni, 70 Piazza di Spagna.
+
+_English Dairy._--Palmegiani, 66 Piazza di Spagna.
+
+
+_Artists' Studios._--
+
+  Benonville, 61 Via Babuino,--landscapes.
+  Brennan, 76 Via Borghetto.
+  Coleman, 16 Via dei Zucchelli,--very good for animals.
+  Corrodi, 25 Angelo-Custode,--water-colour landscapes, very highly finished.
+  Desoulavy, 33 Via Margutta,--landscapes.
+  Fattorini, Via Margutta,--a very beautiful copyist.
+  Flatz, 3 Mario di Fiori,--sacred subjects.
+  Haseltine, J. H., 59 Via Babuino.
+  *Joris, 33 Via Margutta,--quite first-rate for figure subjects
+   in water-colour.
+  Garelli, 217 Ripetta,--an admirable copyist, generally to be found
+   in the Capitoline Gallery.
+  *Glennie, 17 Piazza Margana,--water-colour, first-rate.
+  Knebel, 33 Via Margutta,--oil landscapes.
+  Maes, 33 Via Margutta.
+  *Marianecci, 53 Via Margutta,--the prince of copyists.
+  Muller, 60 Piazza Barberini,--water-colour landscapes.
+  Podesti, 55 Via Margutta,--oil: large historical and sacred subjects.
+  Poingdestre, 36 Vicolo dei Greci--oil: landscapes.
+  Buchanan Read, 55 Via Margutta.
+  *Rivière, 36 Vicolo dei Greci,--water-colour.
+  De Sanctis, 33 Via Margutta.
+  Strutt (Arthur), 81 Via della Croce,--landscapes and figures,
+   both oil and water-colour.
+  Tapiro (Spanish), 72 Sistina,--admirable for figures.
+  Tilton, 20 Via S. Basilio,--remarkable for his drawings of the Nile.
+  Vertunni, 53 Via Margutta.
+  Wedder, 55A Via Margutta.
+  *Penry Williams, 12 Piazza Mignanelli.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Sculptors' Studios._--
+
+    D'Epinay, 57 Via Sistina.
+    Fabj-Altini, 4 S. Nicolo in Tolentino.
+    Miss Foley, 53 Via Margutta,--admirable for medallion portraits and
+    busts, also the author of a beautiful fountain.
+    *Miss Hosmer, 118 Via Margutta--(Gibson's studio).
+    Miss Lewis, 8 Via S. Nicolo in Tolentino.
+    Macdonald, 7 Piazza Barberini.
+    Rosetti, 55 Via Margutta.
+    Story, 2 Via S. Nicolo in Tolentino.
+    Tadolini, 150A Via Babuino.
+    Wood (Shakspeare), 504 Corso,--excels in medallion portraits.
+    Wood (Warrington), 7 Piazza Trinità de' Monti.
+
+
+It is impossible for a traveller who spends only a week or ten days in
+Rome to see a tenth part of the sights which it contains. Perhaps the
+most important objects are:
+
+     _Churches._--S. Peter's, S. John Lateran, Sta. Maria Maggiore, S.
+     Lorenzo fuori Mura, S. Paoli fuori Mura, S. Agnese fuori Mura, Ara
+     Coeli, S. Clemente, S. Pietro in Montorio, S. Pietro in Vincoli,
+     Sta. Sabina, Sta. Prassede and Sta. Pudentiana, S. Gregorio, S.
+     Stefano Rotondo, Sta. Maria sopra Minerva, Sta. Maria del Popolo.
+
+     _Palaces._--Vatican, Capitol, Borghese, Barberini (and, if
+     possible, Corsini, Colonna, Sciarra, Rospigliosi, and Spada).
+
+     _Villas._--Albani, Doria, Borghese, Wolkonski, and, though less
+     important, Ludovisi.
+
+     _Ruins._--Palace of the Cæsars, Temples in Forum, Coliseum, and, if
+     possible, the ruins in the Ghetto, and the Baths of Caracalla.
+
+It is desirable for the traveller who is pressed for time to apply at
+once to his Banker for orders for any of the villas for which they are
+necessary. The following scheme will give a good general idea of Rome
+and its neighbourhood in a few days. The sights printed in italics can
+only be seen on the days to which they are ascribed:--
+
+     _Monday._--General view of Capitol, Gallery of Sculpture, Ara
+     Coeli, General view of Forum, Coliseum, St. John Lateran (with
+     cloisters), and drive out to the Via Latina and the aqueducts at
+     Tavolato.
+
+     _Tuesday._--Morning: St. Peter's and the Vatican Stanze. Afternoon:
+     _Villa Albani_, St. Agnese, and drive to the Ponte Nomentana.
+
+     _Wednesday._--Go to Tivoli (the Cascades, Cascatelle, and Villa
+     d'Este).
+
+     _Thursday._--Morning: _Palace of the Cæsars._ Afternoon: drive on
+     the Via Appia as far as Torre Mezzo Strada; in returning, see the
+     Baths of Caracalla.
+
+     _Friday._--Morning: Palazzo Borghese, Palazzo Spada, The Ghetto,
+     The Temple of Vesta, cross the Ponte Rotto to Sta. Cecilia; and end
+     in the afternoon at St. Pietro in Montorio and the _Villa Doria_
+     (or on Monday).
+
+     _Saturday._--Frascati and Albano. Drive to Frascati early, take
+     donkeys, by Rocca di Papa to Mte. Cavo; take luncheon at the
+     Temple, and return by Palazzuolo and the upper and lower Galleries
+     to Albano, whither the carriage should be sent on to await you at
+     the Hotel de Russie. Drive back to Rome in the evening.
+
+     _Sunday._--Morning: Sta. Maria del Popolo on way to English Church.
+     Afternoon: St. Peter's again; drive to Monte Mario (Villa Mellini),
+     or in the Villa Borghese, and end with the Pincio.
+
+     _2d Monday._--Morning: Sta. Prassede, Sta. Pudentiana, Sta. Maria
+     Maggiore. Afternoon: Sta. Sabina, Priorato Garden, English
+     Cemetery, S. Paolo, and the Tre Fontane.
+
+     _2d Tuesday._--Morning: Vatican Sculptures. Afternoon: S. Gregorio,
+     S. Stefano Rotondo, S. Clemente, S. Pietro in Vincoli, Sta. Maria
+     degli Angeli, S. Lorenzo fuori Mura, and drive out to the Torre dei
+     Schiavi, returning by the Porta Maggiore.
+
+     _2d Wednesday._--Morning: Palazzo Barberini, _Palazzo Rospigliosi_,
+     (and on Saturdays) Vatican Pictures. Afternoon: Forum in detail,
+     SS. Cosmo and Damian, and ascend the Coliseum.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The following list may be useful as a guide to some of the best subjects
+for artists who wish to draw at Rome, and have not much time to search
+for themselves:--
+
+_Morning Light_:
+
+    Temple of Vesta with the fountain.
+    Arch of Constantine from the Coliseum (early).
+    Coliseum from behind Sta. Francesca Romana (early).
+    Temples in the Forum from the School of Xanthus.
+    View from the Garden of the Rupe Tarpeia.
+    In the Garden of S. Giovanni e Paolo.
+    In the Garden of S. Buonaventura.
+    In the Garden of the S. Bartolomeo in Isola.
+    In the Garden of S. Onofrio.
+    On the Tiber from Poussin's Walk.
+    From the door of the Villa Medici.
+    At S. Cosimato.
+    At the back entrance of Ara Coeli.
+    At the Portico of Octavia.
+    Looking to the Arch of Titus up the Via Sacra.
+    In the Cloister of the Lateran.
+    In the Cloister of the Certosa.
+    Near the Temple of Bacchus.
+    On the Via Appia, beyond Cecilia Metella.
+    Torre Mezza Strada on the Via Appia.
+    Torre Nomentana, looking to the mountains.
+    Ponte Nomentana, looking to the Mons Sacer.
+    Torre dei Schiavi, looking towards Tivoli.
+    Aqueducts at Tavolato.
+
+_Evening Light_:
+
+    From St. John Lateran.
+    From the Ponte Rotto.
+    From the Terrace of the Villa Doria (St. Peter's).
+    Palace of the Cæsars--Roman side--looking to Sta. Balbina.
+    Palace of the Cæsars--French side--looking to the Coliseum.
+    Apse of S. Giovanni e Paolo.
+    Near the Navicella.
+    Garden of the Villa Mattei.
+    Garden of the Villa Wolkonski.
+    Garden of the Priorato.
+    Porta S. Lorenzo.
+    Torre dei Schiavi, looking towards Rome.
+    Via Latina, looking towards the Aqueducts.
+    Via Latina, looking towards Rome.
+
+The months of November and December are the best for drawing. The
+colouring is then magnificent; it is enhanced by the tints of the
+decaying vegetation, and the shadows are strong and clear. January is
+generally cold for sitting out, and February wet; and before the end of
+March the vegetation is often so far advanced that the Alban Hills,
+which have retained glorious sapphire and amethyst tints all winter,
+change into commonplace green English downs; while the Campagna, from
+the crimson and gold of its dying thistles and fenochii, becomes a
+lovely green plain waving with flowers.
+
+Foreigners are much too apt to follow the native custom of driving
+constantly in the Villa Borghese, the Villa Doria, and on the Pincio,
+and getting out to walk there during their drives. For those who do not
+care always to see the human world, a delightful variety of drives can
+be found; and it is a most agreeable plan for invalids, without
+carriages of their own, to take a "course to the Parco di San Gregorio,"
+or to the sunny avenues near the Lateran, and walk there instead of on
+the Pincio. A carriage for the return may almost always be found in the
+Forum or at the Lateran.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+THE CORSO AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.
+
+     The Piazza del Popolo--Obelisk--Sta. Maria del Popolo--(The
+     Pincio--Villa Medici--Trinità de' Monti) (Via Babuino--Via
+     Margutta--Piazza di Spagna--Propaganda) (Via Ripetta--SS. Rocco e
+     Martino--S. Girolamo degli Schiavoni)--S. Giacomo degli
+     Incurabili--Via Vittoria--Mausoleum of Augustus--S. Carlo in
+     Corso--Via Condotti--Palazzo Borghese--Palazzo Ruspoli--S. Lorenzo
+     in Lucina--S. Sylvestro in Capite--S. Andrea delle Fratte--Palazzo
+     Chigi--Piazza Colonna--Palace and Obelisk of Monte-Citorio--Temple
+     of Neptune--Fountain of Trevi--Palazzo Poli--Palazzo Sciarra--The
+     Caravita--S. Ignazio--S. Marcello--Sta. Maria in Via Lata--Palazzo
+     Doria Pamfili--Palazzo Salviati--Palazzo Odescalchi--Palazzo
+     Colonna--Church of SS. Apostoli--Palazzo Savorelli--Palazzo
+     Buonaparte--Palazzo di Venezia--Palazzo Torlonia--Ripresa dei
+     Barberi--S. Marco--Church of Il Gesu--Palazzo Altieri.
+
+
+The first object of every traveller will naturally be to reach the
+Capitol, and look down thence upon ancient Rome; but as he will go down
+to the Corso to do this, and must daily pass most of its surrounding
+buildings, we will first speak of those objects which will, ere long,
+become the most familiar.
+
+A stranger's first lesson in Roman geography should be learnt standing
+in the _Piazza del Popolo_, whence three streets branch off--the Corso,
+in the centre, leading towards the Capitol, beyond which lies ancient
+Rome; the Babuino, on the left, leading to the Piazza di Spagna and the
+English quarter; the Ripetta, on the right, leading to the Castle of St.
+Angelo and St. Peter's. The scene is one well known from pictures and
+engravings. The space between the streets is occupied by twin churches,
+erected by Cardinal Gastaldi.
+
+     "Les deux églises élevées au Place du Peuple par le Cardinal
+     Gastaldi à l'entrée du Corso, sont d'un effet médiocre. Comment un
+     cardinal n'a-t-il pas senti qu'il ne faut pas élever une église
+     pour _faire pendant_ à quelque chose? C'est ravaler la majesté
+     divine." _Stendhal_, i. 172.
+
+It is in the church on the left that sermons are preached every winter
+on Sunday afternoons by some of the best Roman Catholic
+controversialists, just at the right moment for catching the Protestant
+congregations as they emerge from their chapels outside the Porta del
+Popolo.
+
+These churches are believed to occupy the site of the magnificent tomb
+of Sylla, who died at Puteoli B.C. 82, but was honoured at Rome with a
+public funeral, at which the patrician ladies burnt masses of incense
+and perfumes on his funeral pyre.
+
+The _Obelisk_ of the Piazza del Popolo was placed on this site by Sixtus
+V. in 1589, but was originally brought to Rome and erected in honour of
+Apollo by the Emperor Augustus.
+
+     "Apollo was the patron of the spot which had given a name to the
+     great victory of Actium; Apollo himself, it was proclaimed, had
+     fought for Rome and for Octavius on that auspicious day; the same
+     Apollo, the Sun-god, had shuddered in his bright career at the
+     murder of the Dictator, and terrified the nations by the eclipse of
+     his divine countenance." ... Therefore, "besides building a temple
+     to Apollo on the Palatine hill, the Emperor Augustus sought to
+     honour him by transplanting to the Circus Maximus, the sports of
+     which were under his special protection, an obelisk from
+     Heliopolis, in Egypt. This flame-shaped column was a symbol of the
+     sun, and originally bore a blazing orb upon its summit. It is
+     interesting to trace an intelligible motive for the first
+     introduction into Europe of these grotesque and unsightly monuments
+     of eastern superstition."--_Merivale, Hist. of the Romans._
+
+     "This red granite obelisk, oldest of things, even in Rome, rises in
+     the centre of the piazza, with a four-fold fountain at its base.
+     All Roman works and ruins (whether of the empire, the far-off
+     republic, or the still more distant kings) assume a transient,
+     visionary, and impalpable character, when we think that this
+     indestructible monument supplied one of the recollections which
+     Moses and the Israelites bore from Egypt into the desert.
+     Perchance, on beholding the cloudy pillar and fiery column, they
+     whispered awe-stricken to one another, 'In its shape it is like
+     that old obelisk which we and our fathers have so often seen on the
+     borders of the Nile.' And now that very obelisk, with hardly a
+     trace of decay upon it, is the first thing that the modern
+     traveller sees after entering the Flaminian Gate."--_Hawthorne's
+     Transformation._
+
+It was on the left of the Piazza, at the foot of what was even then
+called "the Hill of Gardens," that Nero was buried (A.D. 68).
+
+     "When Nero was dead, his nurse Eclaga, with Alexandra, and Acte the
+     famous concubine, having wrapped his remains in rich white stuff,
+     embroidered with gold, deposited them in the Domitian monument,
+     which is seen in the Campus-Martius under the Hill of Gardens. The
+     tomb was of porphyry, having an altar of Luna marble, surrounded by
+     a balustrade of Thasos marble."--_Suetonius._
+
+Church tradition tells that from the tomb of Nero afterwards grew a
+gigantic walnut-tree, which became the resort of innumerable crows,--so
+numerous as to become quite a pest to the neighbourhood. In the eleventh
+century, Pope Paschal II. dreamt that these crows were demons, and that
+the Blessed Virgin commanded him to cut down and burn the tree ("albero
+malnato"), and build a sanctuary to her honour in its place. A church
+was then built by means of a collection amongst the common people;
+hence the name which it still retains of "St. Mary of the People."
+
+_Sta. Maria del Popolo_ was rebuilt by Bacio Pintelli for Sixtus IV. in
+1480, and very richly adorned. It was modernized by Bernini for
+Alexander VII. (Fabio Chigi, 1655-67), of whom it was the family
+burial-place, but it still retains many fragments of beautiful fifteenth
+century work (the principal door of the nave is a fine example of this);
+and its interior is a perfect museum of sculpture and art.
+
+Entering the church by the west door, and following the right aisle, the
+first chapel (Venuti, formerly Della Rovere[3]) is adorned with
+exquisite paintings by _Pinturicchio_. Over the altar is the
+Nativity--one of the most beautiful frescoes in the city; in the
+lunettes are scenes from the life of St. Jerome. Cardinal Christoforo
+della Rovere, who built this chapel and dedicated it to "the Virgin and
+St. Jerome," is buried on the left, in a grand fifteenth century tomb;
+on the right is the monument of Cardinal di Castro. Both of these tombs
+and many others in this church have interesting and greatly varied
+lunettes of the Virgin and Child.
+
+The second chapel, of the Cibo family, rich in pillars of nero-antico
+and jasper, has an altarpiece representing the Assumption of the Virgin,
+by _Carlo Maratta_. In the cupola is the Almighty, surrounded by the
+heavenly host.[4]
+
+The third chapel is also painted by _Pinturicchio_. Over the altar, the
+Madonna and four saints; above, God the Father, surrounded by angels. In
+the other lunettes, scenes in the life of the Virgin;--that of the
+Virgin studying in the Temple, a very rare subject, is especially
+beautiful. In a frieze round the lower part of the wall, a series of
+martyrdoms in grisaille. On the right is the tomb of Giovanni della
+Rovere, ob. 1483. On the left is a fine sleeping bronze figure of a
+bishop, unknown.
+
+The fourth chapel has a fine fifteenth century altar-relief of St.
+Catherine between St. Anthony of Padua and St. Vincent. On the right is
+the tomb of Marc-Antonio Albertoni, ob. 1485; on the left, that of
+Cardinal Costa, of Lisbon, ob. 1508, erected in his lifetime. In this
+tomb is an especially beautiful lunette of the Virgin adored by Angels.
+
+Entering the right transept, on the right is the tomb of Cardinal
+Podocanthorus of Cyprus, a very fine specimen of fifteenth century work.
+A door near this leads into a cloister, where is preserved, over a door,
+the Gothic altar-piece of the church of Sixtus IV, representing the
+Coronation of the Virgin, and two fine tombs--Archbishop Rocca, ob.
+1482, and Bishop Gomiel.
+
+The choir (shown when there is no service) has a ceiling by
+_Pinturicchio_. In the centre, the Virgin and Saviour, surrounded by the
+Evangelists and Sibyls; in the corners, the Fathers of the
+Church--Gregory, Ambrose, Jerome, and Augustine. Beneath are the tombs
+of Cardinal Ascanio Sforza, and Cardinal Girolamo Basso, nephews of
+Sixtus IV. (Francesco della Rovere), beautiful works of _Andrea di
+Sansovino_. These tombs were erected at the expense of Julius II.,
+himself a Della Rovere, who also gave the windows, painted by _Claude
+and Guillaume de Marseilles_, the only good specimens of stained glass
+in Rome.
+
+The high-altar is surmounted by a miraculous image of the Virgin,
+inscribed, "In honorificentia populi nostri," which was placed in this
+church by Gregory IX., and which, having been "successfully invoked" by
+Gregory XIII., in the great plague of 1578, has ever since been annually
+adored by the pope of the period, who prostrates himself before it upon
+the 8th of September. The chapel on the left of this has an Assumption,
+by _Annibale Caracci_.
+
+In the left transept is the tomb of Cardinal Bernardino Lonati, with a
+fine fifteenth century relief of the Resurrection.
+
+Returning by the left aisle, the last chapel but one is that of the
+Chigi family, in which the famous banker, Agostino Chigi (who built the
+Farnesina) is buried, and in which _Raphael_ is represented at once as a
+painter, a sculptor, and an architect. He planned the chapel itself; he
+drew the strange design of the Mosaic on the ceiling (carried out by
+_Aloisio della Pace_), which represents an extraordinary mixture of
+Paganism and Christianity, Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn (as
+the planets), conducted by angels, being represented with and
+surrounding Jehovah; and he modelled the beautiful statue of Jonah
+seated on the whale, which was sculptured in the marble by _Lorenzetto_.
+The same artist sculptured the figure of Elijah,--those of Daniel and
+Habakkuk being by _Bernini_. The altarpiece, representing the Nativity
+of the Virgin, is a fine work of _Sebastian del Piombo_. On the pier
+adjoining this chapel is the strange monument by _Posi_ (1771) of a
+Princess Odescalchi Chigi, who died in childbirth, at the age of twenty,
+erected by her husband, who describes himself, "In solitudine et luctu
+superstes."
+
+The last chapel contains two fine fifteenth century ciboria, and the
+tomb of Cardinal Antonio Pallavicini, 1507.
+
+On the left of the principal entrance is the remarkable monument of Gio.
+Batt. Gislenus, the companion and friend of Casimir I. of Poland (ob.
+1670). At the top is his portrait while living, inscribed, "Neque hic
+vivus"; then a medallion of a chrysalis, "In nidulo meo moriar";
+opposite to which is a medallion of a butterfly emerging, "Ut Phoenix
+multiplicabo dies": below is a hideous skeleton of giallo antico in a
+white marble winding-sheet, "Neque hic mortuus."
+
+     Martin Luther "often spoke of death as the Christian's true birth,
+     and this life as but a growing into the chrysalis-shell in which
+     the spirit lives till its being is developed, and it bursts the
+     shell, casts off the web, struggles into life, spreads its wings,
+     and soars up to God."
+
+The Augustine Convent adjoining this church was the residence of Luther
+while he was in Rome. Here he celebrated mass immediately on his
+arrival, after he had prostrated himself upon the earth, saying, "Hail
+sacred Rome! thrice sacred for the blood of the martyrs shed here!"
+Here, also, he celebrated mass for the last time before he departed from
+Rome to become the most terrible of her enemies.
+
+     "Lui pauvre écolier, élevé si durement, qui souvent, pendant son
+     enfance, n'avait pour oreiller qu'une dalle froide, il passe devant
+     des temples tout de marbre, devant des colonnes d'albâtre, des
+     gigantesques obélisques de granite, des fontaines jaillissantes,
+     des _villas_ fraîches et embellies de jardins, de fleurs, de
+     cascades et de grottes. Veut-il prier? il entre dans une église qui
+     lui semble un monde véritable, où les diamants scintillent sur
+     l'autel, l'or aux soffites, le marbre aux colonnes, la mosaïque aux
+     chapelles, au lieu d'un de ces temples rustiques qui n'ont dans sa
+     patrie pour tout ornement que quelques roses qu'une main pieuse va
+     déposer sur l'autel le jour du dimanche. Est-il fatigué de la
+     route? il trouve sur son chemin, non plus un modeste banc de bois,
+     mais un siège d'albâtre antique récemment déterré. Cherche-t-il une
+     sainte image? il n'aperçoit que des fantaisies païennes, des
+     divinités olympiques, Apollon, Vénus, Mars, Jupiter, auxquelles
+     travaillent mille mains de sculpteurs. De toutes ces merveilles, il
+     ne comprit rien, il ne vit rien. Aucun rayon de la couronne de
+     Raphaël, de Michel-Ange, n'éblouit ses regards; il resta froid et
+     muet devant tous les trésors de peinture et de sculpture rassemblés
+     dans les églises; son oreille fut fermée aux chants du Dante, que
+     le peuple répétait autour de lui. Il était entré à Rome en pèlerin,
+     il en sort comme Coriolan, et s'écrie avec Bembo: 'Adieu, Rome, que
+     doit fuir quiconque veut vivre saintement! Adieu, ville où tout est
+     permis, excepté d'être homme de bien.'"--_Audin, Histoire de
+     Luther_, c. ii.
+
+It was in front of this church that the cardinals and magnates of Rome
+met to receive the apostate Christina of Sweden upon her entrance into
+the city.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+On the left side of the piazza rise the terraces of the Pincio, adorned
+with rostral-columns, statues, and marble bas-reliefs, interspersed with
+cypresses and pines. A winding road, lined with mimosas and other
+flowering shrubs, leads to the upper platform, now laid out in public
+drives and gardens, but, till twenty years ago, a deserted waste, where
+the ghost of Nero was believed to wander in the middle ages.
+
+Hence the Eternal City is seen spread at our feet, and beyond it the
+wide-spreading Campagna, till a silver line marks the sea melting into
+the horizon beyond Ostia. All these churches and tall palace roofs
+become more than mere names in the course of the winter, but at first
+all is bewilderment Two great buildings alone arrest the attention:
+
+     "Westward, beyond the Tiber, is the Castle of St. Angelo, the
+     immense tomb of a pagan emperor with the archangel on its
+     summit.... Still further off, a mighty pile of buildings,
+     surmounted by a vast dome, which all of us have shaped and swelled
+     outward, like a huge bubble, to the utmost scope of our
+     imaginations, long before we see it floating over the worship of
+     the city. At any nearer view the grandeur of St. Peter's hides
+     itself behind the immensity of its separate parts, so that we only
+     see the front, only the sides, only the pillared length and
+     loftiness of the portico, and not the mighty whole. But at this
+     distance the entire outline of the world's cathedral, as well as
+     that of the palace of the world's chief priest, is taken in at
+     once. In such remoteness, moreover, the imagination is not debarred
+     from rendering its assistance, even while we have the reality
+     before our eyes, and helping the weakness of human sense to do
+     justice to so grand an object. It requires both faith and fancy to
+     enable us to feel, what is nevertheless so true, that yonder, in
+     front of the purple outline of the hills, is the grandest edifice
+     ever built by man, painted against God's loveliest
+     sky."--_Hawthorne._
+
+Here the band plays under the great palm-tree every afternoon except
+Friday. On Sunday afternoons the Pincio is in what Miss Thackeray
+describes as "a fashionable halo of sunset and pink parasols"--when
+immense crowds collect, showing every phase of Roman life; and disperse
+again as the Ave-Maria bell rings from the churches, either to descend
+into the city, or to hear benediction sung by the nuns in the Trinità
+de' Monti.
+
+     "When the fashionable hour of rendezvous arrives, the same spot,
+     which a few minutes before was immersed in silence and solitude,
+     changes as it were with the rapidity of a scene in a pantomime to
+     an animated panorama. The scene is rendered not a little ludicrous
+     by the miniature representation of the Ring in Hyde Park in a small
+     compass. An entire revolution of the carriage-drive is performed in
+     the short period of three minutes as near as may be, and the
+     perpetual occurrence of the same physiognomies and the same
+     carriages trotting round and round for two successive hours,
+     necessarily reminds one of the proceedings of a country fair, and
+     children whirling in a roundabout."--_Sir G. Head's 'Tour in
+     Rome.'_
+
+     "The Pincian Hill is the favourite promenade of the Roman
+     aristocracy. At the present day, however, like most other Roman
+     possessions, it belongs less to the native inhabitants than to the
+     barbarians from Gaul, Great Britain, and beyond the sea, who have
+     established a peaceful usurpation over all that is enjoyable or
+     memorable in the Eternal City. These foreign guests are indeed
+     ungrateful, if they do not breathe a prayer for Pope Clement, or
+     whatever Holy Father it may have been, who levelled the summit of
+     the mount so skilfully, and bounded it with the parapet of the city
+     wall; who laid out those broad walks and drives, and overhung them
+     with the shade of many kinds of tree; who scattered the flowers of
+     all seasons, and of every clime, abundantly over those smooth,
+     central lawns; who scooped out hollows in fit places, and setting
+     great basons of marble in them, caused ever-gushing fountains to
+     fill them to the brim; who reared up the immemorial obelisk out of
+     the soil that had long hidden it; who placed pedestals along the
+     borders of the avenues, and covered them with busts of that
+     multitude of worthies,--statesmen, heroes, artists, men of letters
+     and of song,--whom the whole world claims as its chief ornaments,
+     though Italy has produced them all. In a word, the Pincian garden
+     is one of the things that reconcile the stranger (since he fully
+     appreciates the enjoyment, and feels nothing of the cost,) to the
+     rule of an irresponsible dynasty of Holy Fathers, who seem to have
+     arrived at making life as agreeable an affair as it can well be.
+
+     "In this pleasant spot the red-trousered French soldiers are always
+     to be seen; bearded and grizzled veterans, perhaps, with medals of
+     Algiers or the Crimea on their breasts. To them is assigned the
+     peaceful duty of seeing that children do not trample on the
+     flower-beds, nor any youthful lover rifle them of their fragrant
+     blossoms to stick in his beloved one's hair. Here sits (drooping
+     upon some marble bench, in the treacherous sunshine,) the
+     consumptive girl, whose friends have brought her, for a cure, into
+     a climate that instils poison into its very purest breath. Here,
+     all day, come nursery maids, burdened with rosy English babies, or
+     guiding the footsteps of little travellers from the far western
+     world. Here, in the sunny afternoon, roll and rumble all kinds of
+     carriages, from the Cardinal's old-fashioned and gorgeous purple
+     carriage to the gay barouche of modern date. Here horsemen gallop
+     on thorough-bred steeds. Here, in short, all the transitory
+     population of Rome, the world's great watering-place, rides,
+     drives, or promenades! Here are beautiful sunsets; and here,
+     whichever way you turn your eyes, are scenes as well worth gazing
+     at, both in themselves and for their historical interest, as any
+     that the sun ever rose and set upon. Here, too, on certain
+     afternoons in the week, a French military band flings out rich
+     music over the poor old city, floating her with strains as loud as
+     those of her own echoless triumphs."--_Hawthorne._
+
+The garden of the Pincio is very small, but beautifully laid out. At a
+crossroads is placed an _Obelisk_, brought from Egypt, and which the
+late discoveries in hieroglyphics show to have been erected there, in
+the joint names of Hadrian and his empress Sabina, to their beloved
+Antinous, who was drowned in the Nile A.D. 131.
+
+From the furthest angle of the garden we look down upon the strange
+fragment of wall known as the _Muro-Torto_.
+
+     "Le Muro-Torto offre un souvenir curieux. On nomme ainsi un pan de
+     muraille qui, avant de faire partie du rempart d'Honorius, avait
+     servi à soutenir la terrasse du jardin du Domitius, et qui, du
+     temps de Bélisaire, était déjà incliné comme il l'est aujourd'hui.
+     Procope racconte que Bélisaire voulait le rebâtir, mais que les
+     Romains l'en empêchèrent, affirmant que ce point n'était pas
+     exposé, parce que Saint Pierre avait promis de le défendre. Procope
+     ajoute: 'Personne n'a osé réparer ce mur, et il reste encore dans
+     le même état.' Nous pouvons en dire autant que Procope, et le mur,
+     détaché de la colline à laquelle il s'appuyait, reste encore
+     incliné et semble près de tomber. Ce détail du siége de Rome est
+     confirmé par l'aspect singulier du Muro-Torto, qui _semble toujours
+     près de tomber_, et subsiste dans le même état depuis quatorze
+     siècles, comme s'il était soutenu miraculeusement par la main de
+     Saint Pierre. On ne saurait guère trouver pour l'autorité temporel
+     des papes, un meilleur symbole."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 397.
+
+     "At the furthest point of the Pincio, you look down from the
+     parapet upon the Muro-Torto, a massive fragment of the oldest Roman
+     wall, which juts over, as if ready to tumble down by its own
+     weight, yet seems still the most indestructible piece of work that
+     men's hands ever piled together. In the blue distance rise Soracte,
+     and other heights, which have gleamed afar, to our imagination, but
+     look scarcely real to our bodily eyes, because, being dreamed about
+     so much, they have taken the aerial tints which belong only to a
+     dream. These, nevertheless, are the solid framework of hills that
+     shut in Rome, and its broad surrounding Campagna; no land of
+     dreams, but the broadest page of history, crowded so full with
+     memorable events, that one obliterates another, as if Time had
+     crossed and recrossed his own records till they grew
+     illegible."--_Hawthorne._
+
+In early imperial times the site of the Pincio garden was occupied by
+the famous villa of Lucullus, who had gained his enormous wealth as
+general of the Roman armies in Asia.
+
+     "The life of Lucullus was like an ancient comedy, where first we
+     see great actions, both political and military, and afterwards
+     feasts, debauches, races by torchlight, and every kind of frivolous
+     amusement. For among frivolous amusements, I cannot but reckon his
+     sumptuous villas, walks, and baths; and still more so the
+     paintings, statues, and other works of art which he collected at
+     immense expense, idly squandering away upon them the vast fortune
+     he amassed in the wars. Insomuch that now, when luxury is so much
+     advanced, the gardens of Lucullus rank with those of the kings, and
+     are esteemed the most magnificent even of these."--_Plutarch._
+
+Here, in his Pincian villa, Lucullus gave his celebrated feast to Cicero
+and Pompey, merely mentioning to a slave beforehand that he should sup
+in the hall of Apollo, which was understood as a command to prepare all
+that was most sumptuous.
+
+     After Lucullus--the beautiful Pincian villa belonged to Valerius
+     Asiaticus, and in the reign of Claudius was coveted by his fifth
+     wife, Messalina. She suborned Silius, her son's tutor, to accuse
+     him of a licentious life, and of corrupting the army. Being
+     condemned to death, "Asiaticus declined the counsel of his friends
+     to starve himself, a course which might leave an interval for the
+     chance of pardon; and after the lofty fashion of the ancient
+     Romans, bathed, perfumed, and supped magnificently, and then opened
+     his veins, and let himself bleed to death. Before dying he
+     inspected the pyre prepared for him in his own gardens, and ordered
+     it to be removed to another spot, that an umbrageous plantation
+     which overhung it might not be injured by the flames."
+
+     As soon as she heard of his death, Messalina took possession of the
+     villa, and held high revel there with her numerous lovers, with the
+     most favoured of whom, Silius, she had actually gone through the
+     religious rites of marriage in the lifetime of the emperor, who was
+     absent at Ostia. But a conspiracy among the freedmen of the royal
+     household informed the emperor of what was taking place, and at
+     last even Claudius was aroused to a sense of her enormities.
+
+     "In her suburban palace, Messalina was abandoning herself to
+     voluptuous transports. The season was mid-autumn, the vintage was
+     in full progress; the wine-press was groaning; the ruddy juice was
+     streaming; women girt with scanty fawnskins danced as drunken
+     Bacchanals around her: while she herself, with her hair loose and
+     disordered, brandished the thyrsus in the midst, and Silius by her
+     side, buskined and crowned with ivy, tossed his head to the
+     flaunting strains of Silenus and the Satyrs. Vettius, one, it
+     seems, of the wanton's less fortunate paramours, attended the
+     ceremony, and climbed in merriment a lofty tree in the garden. When
+     asked what he saw, he replied, 'an awful storm from Ostia'; and
+     whether there was actually such an appearance, or whether the words
+     were spoken at random, they were accepted afterwards as an omen of
+     the catastrophe which quickly followed.
+
+     "For now in the midst of these wanton orgies the rumour quickly
+     spread, and swiftly messengers arrived to confirm it, that Claudius
+     knew it all, that Claudius was on his way to Rome, and was coming
+     in anger and vengeance. The lovers part: Silius for the forum and
+     the tribunals; Messalina for the shade of her gardens on the
+     Pincio, the price of the blood of the murdered Asiaticus." Once the
+     empress attempted to go forth to meet Claudius, taking her children
+     with her, and accompanied by Vibidia, the eldest of the vestal
+     virgins, whom she persuaded to intercede for her, but her enemies
+     prevented her gaining access to her husband; Vibidia was satisfied
+     for the moment by vague promises of a later hearing; and upon the
+     arrival of Claudius in Rome, Silius and the other principal lovers
+     of the empress were put to death. "Still Messalina hoped. She had
+     withdrawn again to the gardens of Lucullus, and was there engaged
+     in composing addresses of supplication to her husband, in which her
+     pride and long-accustomed insolence still faintly struggled into
+     her fears. The emperor still paltered with the treason. He had
+     retired to his palace; he had bathed, anointed, and lain down to
+     supper; and, warmed with wine and generous cheer, he had actually
+     despatched a message to the _poor creature_, as he called her,
+     bidding her come the next day, and plead her cause before him. But
+     her enemy Narcissus, knowing how easy might be the passage from
+     compassion to love, glided from the chamber, and boldly ordered a
+     tribune and some centurions to go and slay his victim. 'Such,' he
+     said, 'was the emperor's command'; and his word was obeyed without
+     hesitation. Under the direction of the freedman Euodus, the armed
+     men sought the outcast in her gardens, where she lay prostrate on
+     the ground, by the side of her mother Lepida. While their fortunes
+     flourished, dissensions had existed between the two; but now, in
+     her last distress, the mother had refused to desert her child, and
+     only strove to nerve her resolution to a voluntary death. 'Life,'
+     she urged, 'is over; nought remains but to look for a decent exit
+     from it.' But the soul of the reprobate was corrupted by her vices;
+     she retained no sense of honour; she continued to weep and groan as
+     if hope still existed; when suddenly the doors were burst open, the
+     tribune and his swordsmen appeared before her, and Euodus assailed
+     her, dumb-stricken as she lay, with contumelious and brutal
+     reproaches. Roused at last to the consciousness of her desperate
+     condition, she took a weapon from one of the men's hands and
+     pressed it trembling against her throat and bosom. Still she wanted
+     resolution to give the thrust, and it was by a blow of the
+     tribune's falchion that the horrid deed was finally accomplished.
+     The death of Asiaticus was avenged on the very spot; the hot blood
+     of the wanton smoked on the pavement of his gardens, and stained
+     with a deeper hue the variegated marbles of Lucullus."--_Merivale,
+     Hist. of the Romans under the Empire._
+
+From the garden of the Pincio a terraced road (beneath which are the
+long-closed catacombs of St. Felix) leads to the _Villa Medici_, built
+for Cardinal Ricci da Montepulciano by Annibale Lippi in 1540. Shortly
+afterwards it passed into the hands of the Medici family, and was
+greatly enlarged by Cardinal Alessandro de Medici, afterwards Leo XI. In
+1801 the Academy for French Art-Students, founded by Louis XIV., was
+established here. The villa contains a fine collection of casts, open
+every day except Sunday.
+
+Behind the villa is a beautiful _Garden_ (which can be visited on
+application to the porter). The terrace, which looks down upon the Villa
+Borghese, is bordered by ancient sarcophagi, and has a colossal statue
+of Rome. The garden side of the villa has sometimes been ascribed to
+Michael Angelo.
+
+     "La plus grande coquetterie de la maison, c'est la façade
+     postérieure. Elle tient son rang parmi les chefs-d'oeuvre de la
+     Renaissance. On dirait que l'architecte a épuisé une mine de
+     bas-reliefs grecs et romains pour en tapisser son palais. Le jardin
+     est de la même époque: il date du temps où l'aristocratie romaine
+     professait le plus profond dédain pour les fleurs. On n'y voit que
+     des massifs de verdure, alignés avec un soin scrupuleux. Six
+     pelouses, entourées de haies à hauteur d'appui, s'étendent devant
+     la villa et laissent courir la vue jusqu'au mont Soracte, qui ferme
+     l'horizon. A gauche, quatre fois quatre carrés de gazon s'encadrent
+     dans de hautes murailles de lauriers, de buis gigantesques et de
+     chênes verts. Les murailles se rejoignent au-dessus des allées et
+     les enveloppent d'une ombre fraîche et mystérieuse. A droite, une
+     terrasse d'une style noble encadre un bois de chênes verts, tordus
+     et eventrés par le temps. J'y vais quelquefois travailler à
+     l'ombre; et le merle rivalise avec le rossignol au-dessus de ma
+     tête, comme un beau chantre de village peut rivaliser avec Mario ou
+     Roger. Un peu plus loin, une vigne toute rustique s'étend jusqu'à
+     la porte Pinciana, où Belisaire a mendié, dit-on. Les jardins
+     petits et grands sont semés de statues, d'Hermes, et de marbres de
+     toute sorte. L'eau coule dans des sarcophages antiques ou jaillit
+     dans des vasques de marbre: le marbre et l'eau sont les deux luxes
+     de Rome."--_About, Rome Contemporaine._
+
+     "The grounds of the Villa Medici are laid out in the old fashion of
+     straight paths, with borders of box, which form hedges of great
+     height and density, and are shorn and trimmed to the evenness of a
+     wall of stone, at the top and sides. There are green alleys, with
+     long vistas, overshadowed by ilex-trees; and at each intersection
+     of the paths the visitor finds seats of lichen-covered stone to
+     repose upon, and marble statues that look forlornly at him,
+     regretful of their lost noses. In the more open portions of the
+     garden, before the sculptured front of the villa, you see fountains
+     and flower-beds; and, in their season, a profusion of roses, from
+     which the genial sun of Italy distils a fragrance, to be scattered
+     abroad by the no less genial breeze."--_Hawthorne._
+
+A second door will admit to the higher terrace of _the Boschetto_; a
+tiny wood of ancient ilexes, from which a steep flight of steps leads to
+the "Belvidere," whence there is a beautiful view.
+
+     "They asked the porter for the key of the Bosco, which was given,
+     and they entered a grove of ilexes, whose gloomy shade effectually
+     shut out the radiant sunshine that still illuminated the western
+     sky. They then ascended a long and exceedingly steep flight of
+     steps, leading up to a high mound covered with ilexes.
+
+     "Here both stood still, side by side, gazing silently on the city,
+     where dome and bell-tower stood out against a sky of gold; the
+     desolate Monte Mario and its stone pines rising dark to the right.
+     Behind, close at hand, were sombre ilex woods, amid which rose here
+     and there the spire of a cypress or a ruined arch, and on the
+     highest point, the white Villa Ludovisi; beyond, stretched the
+     Campagna, girdled by hills melting into light under the evening
+     sky."--_Mademoiselle Mori._
+
+From the door of the Villa Medici is the scene familiar to artists, of a
+fountain shaded by ilexes, which frame a distant view of St Peter's.
+
+     "Je vois (de la Villa Medici) les quatre cinquièmes de la ville; je
+     compte les sept collines, je parcours les rues régulières qui
+     s'étendent entre le cours et la place d'Espagne, je fais le
+     d'enombrement des palais, des églises, des dômes, et des clochers;
+     je m'égare dans le Ghetto et dans la Trastévère. Je ne vois pas des
+     ruines autant que j'en voudrais: elles sont ramassées là-bas, sur
+     ma gauche, aux environs du Forum. Cependant nous avons tout près de
+     nous la colonne Antonine et la mausolée d'Adrien. La vue est fermée
+     agréablement par les pins de la villa Pamphili, qui reunissent
+     leurs larges parasols et font comme une table à mille pieds pour un
+     repas de géants. L'horizon fuit à gauche à des distances infinies;
+     la plaine est nue, onduleuse et bleue comme la mer. Mais si je vous
+     mettais en présence d'un spectacle si étendu et si divers, en seul
+     objet attirerait vos regards, un seul frapperait votre attention:
+     vous n'auriez des yeux que pour Saint Pierre. Son dôme est moitié
+     dans la ville, moitié dans la ciel. Quand j'ouvre ma fenêtre, vers
+     cinq heures du matin, je vois Rome noyée dans les brouillards de la
+     fièvre: seul, le dôme de Saint-Pierre est coloré par la lumière
+     rose du soleil levant."--_About._
+
+The terrace ("La Passeggiata") ends at the _Obelisk of the Trinità de'
+Monti_, erected here in 1822 by Pius VII., who found it near the Church
+of Sta. Croce in Gerusalemme.
+
+     "When the Ave Maria sounds, it is time to go to the church of
+     Trinità de' Monti, where French nuns sing; and it is charming to
+     hear them. I declare to heaven that I am become quite tolerant, and
+     listen to bad music with edification; but what can I do? The
+     composition is perfectly ridiculous, the organ-playing even more
+     absurd: but it is twilight, and the whole of the small bright
+     church is filled with persons kneeling, lit up by the sinking sun
+     each time that the door is opened; both the singing nuns have the
+     sweetest voices in the world, quite tender and touching, more
+     especially when one of them sings the responses in her melodious
+     voice, which we are accustomed to hear chaunted by priests in a
+     loud, harsh, monotonous tone. The impression is very singular;
+     moreover, it is well known that no one is permitted to see the fair
+     singers, so this caused me to form a strange resolution. I have
+     composed something to suit their voices, which I have observed very
+     minutely, and I mean to send it to them. It will be pleasant to
+     hear my chaunt performed by persons I never saw, especially as they
+     must in turn sing it to the 'barbaro Tedescho,' whom they also
+     never beheld."--_Mendelssohn's Letters._
+
+     "In the evenings people go to the Trinità to hear the nuns sing
+     from the organ-gallery. It sounds like the singing of angels. One
+     sees in the choir troops of young scholars, moving with slow and
+     measured steps, with their long white veils, like a flock of
+     spirits."--_Frederika Bremer._
+
+_The Church of the Trinità de' Monti_ was built in 1495 by Charles VIII.
+of France, at the request of S. Francesco di Paola. At the time of the
+French revolution it was plundered, but was restored by Louis XVIII. in
+1817. It contains several interesting paintings.
+
+In the second chapel on the left is the Descent from the Cross, the
+masterpiece of _Daniele da Volterra_, declared by Nicholas Poussin to be
+the third picture in the world, but terribly injured by the French in
+their attempts to remove it.
+
+     "We might almost fancy ourselves spectators of the mournful
+     scene,--the Redeemer, while being removed from the cross, gradually
+     sinking down with all that relaxation of limb and utter
+     helplessness which belongs to a dead body; the assistants engaged
+     in their various duties, and thrown into different and contrasted
+     attitudes, intently occupied with the sacred remains which they so
+     reverently gaze upon; the mother of the Lord in a swoon amidst her
+     afflicted companions; the disciple whom he loved standing with
+     outstretched arms, absorbed in contemplating the mysterious
+     spectacle. The truth in the representation of the exposed parts of
+     the body appears to be nature itself. The colouring of the heads
+     and of the whole picture accords precisely with the subject,
+     displaying strength rather than delicacy, a harmony, and in short a
+     degree of skill, of which M. Angelo himself might have been proud,
+     if the picture had been inscribed with his name. And to this I
+     believe the author alluded, when he painted his friend with a
+     looking-glass near it, as if to intimate that he might recognize in
+     the picture a reflection of himself."--_Lanzi._
+
+     "Daniele da Volterra's Descent from the Cross is one of the
+     celebrated pictures of the world, and has very grand features. The
+     body is not skilfully sustained; nevertheless the number of strong
+     men employed about it makes up in sheer muscle for the absence of
+     skill. Here are four ladders against the cross, stalwart figures
+     standing, ascending, and descending upon each, so that the space
+     between the cross and the ground is absolutely alive with
+     magnificent lines. The Virgin lies on one side, and is like a grand
+     creature struck down by a sudden death-blow. She has fallen, like
+     Ananias in Raphael's cartoon, with her head bent backwards, and her
+     arm under her. The crown of thorns has been taken from the dead
+     brow, and rests on the end of one of the ladders."--_Lady
+     Eastlake._
+
+The third chapel on the right contains an Assumption of the Virgin,
+another work of _Daniele da Volterra_. The fifth chapel is adorned with
+frescoes of his school. The sixth has frescoes of the school of
+_Perugino_. The frescoes in the right transept are by _F. Zuccaro_ and
+_Pierino del Vaga_; in that of the Procession of St. Gregory the
+mausoleum of Hadrian is represented as it appeared in the time of Leo X.
+
+The adjoining _Convent of the Sacré Coeur_ is much frequented as a
+place of education. The nuns are all persons of rank. When a lady takes
+the veil, her nearest relations inherit her property, except about
+1000_l._, which goes to the convent. The nuns are allowed to retain no
+personal property, but if they wish still to have the use of their
+books, they give them to the convent library. They receive visitors
+every afternoon, and quantities of people go to them from curiosity, on
+the plea of seeking advice.
+
+From the Trinità the two popular streets--Sistina and
+Gregoriana--branch off; the former leading in a direct line (though the
+name changes) to Sta. Maria Maggiore, and thence to St. John Lateran and
+Sta. Croce in Gerusalemme. The house adjoining the Trinità was that of
+Nicholas Poussin; that at the angle of the two streets, called the
+_Tempietto_, was once inhabited by Claude Lorraine. The adjoining house
+(64 Sistina)--formerly known as Palazzo della Regina di Polonia, from
+Maria Casimira, Queen of Poland, who resided there for some years--was
+inhabited by the Zuccari family, and has paintings on the ground-floor
+by _Federigo Zuccaro_. One of the rooms on the first-floor was adorned
+with frescoes by modern German artists at the expense of the Prussian
+consul Bartholdy, viz.:--
+
+    The Selling of Joseph: _Overbeck._
+    Joseph and Potiphar's Wife: _Veit._
+    Meeting of Joseph and his Brethren: _Cornelius._
+    The Seven Lean Years: _Overbeck._
+    Joseph interprets the Dreams in Prison: _Schadow._
+    The Brethren bring Joseph's Coat to Jacob: _Schadow._
+    Joseph interprets the Dreams of Pharaoh: _Cornelius._
+    The Seven Plentiful Years: _Veit._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+On the left of the Piazza del Popolo, the _Via Babuino_ branches off,
+deriving its name from the mutilated figure on a fountain halfway down.
+On the right is the Greek _Church of S. Atanasio_, attached to a college
+founded by Gregory XIII. in 1580.
+
+     "To-day, the feast of the Epiphany, I have witnessed mass according
+     to the Greek rite. The ceremonies appear to be more stately, more
+     severe, more significant, and at the same time more popular, than
+     those of the Latin rite."--_Goethe, Romische Briefe._
+
+Behind this street is the _Via Margutta_, almost entirely inhabited by
+artists and sculptors.
+
+     "The Via Margutta is a street of studios and stables, crossed at
+     the upper end by a little roofed gallery with a single window, like
+     a shabby Bridge of Sighs. Horses are continually being washed and
+     currycombed outside their stable doors; frequent heaps of
+     _immondeazzajo_ make the air unfragrant; and the perspective is
+     frequently damaged by rows of linen suspended across the road from
+     window to window. Unsightly as they are, however, these obstacles
+     in no wise affect the popularity of the Via Margutta, either as a
+     residence for the artist, or a lounge for the amateur. Fashionable
+     patrons leave their carriages at the corner, and pick their way
+     daintily among the gutters and dust-heaps. A boar-hunt by Vallatti
+     compensates for an unlucky splash; and a campagna sunset of
+     Desoulavey glows all the richer for the squalor through which it is
+     approached."--_Barbara's History._
+
+In this street also is situated the _Costume Academy_.
+
+     "Imagine a great barn of a room, with dingy walls half covered with
+     chalk studies of the figure in all possible attitudes. Opposite the
+     door is a low platform with revolving top, and beside it an
+     _écorché_, or plaster figure bereft of skin, so as to exhibit the
+     muscles. Ranges of benches, raised one above the other, occupy the
+     remainder of the room; and if you were to look in at about eight
+     o'clock on a winter's evening, you would find them tenanted by a
+     multitude of young artists, mostly in their shirt sleeves, with
+     perhaps three or four ladies, all disposed around the model, who
+     stands upon the platform in one of the picturesque costumes of
+     Southern Italy, with a cluster of eight lamps, intensified by a
+     powerful reflector, immediately above his or her unlucky head.
+
+     The costumes are regulated by Church times and seasons. During Lent
+     the models were mediæval dresses; during the winter and carnival,
+     Italian costumes of the present day; and with Easter begin mere
+     draperies, _pieghe_, or folds, as they are technically called.
+
+     Every evening the subject for the next night is chalked up on a
+     black board beside the platform; for the next _two_ nights rather;
+     for each model poses for two evenings; the position of his feet
+     being chalked upon the platform, so as to secure the same attitude
+     on the second evening. Consequently, four hours are allowed for
+     each drawing.... The _pieghe_ are only for a single time, as it
+     would be impossible to secure the same folds twice over.... The
+     expense of attending the Academy, including attendance, each
+     person's share in the model, and his own especial lamp, amounts to
+     2-1/2_d._ an evening, or a scudo and a half (about 6_s._ 6_d._) a
+     month; marvellously cheap, it most be confessed."--_H. M. B._, in
+     _Once a Week_.
+
+The Babuino ends in the ugly but central square of the _Piazza di
+Spagna_, where many of the best hotels and shops are situated. Hence the
+Trinità is reached by a magnificent flight of steps (disgracefully ill
+kept), which was built by Alessandro Specchi at the expense of a private
+individual, M. Gueffier, secretary to the French embassy at Rome, under
+Innocent XIII.
+
+     "No art-loving visitor to Rome can ever have passed the noble
+     flight of steps which leads from the Piazza di Spagna to the Church
+     of the Trinità de' Monti without longing to transfer to his
+     sketch-book the picturesque groups of models who there spend their
+     day, basking in the beams of the wintry sun, and eating those
+     little boiled beans whose yellow husks bestrew every place where
+     the lower class Romans congregate--practising, in short, the 'dolce
+     far niente.' Beppo, the celebrated lame beggar, is no longer to be
+     seen there, having been banished to the steps of the Church of St.
+     Agostino; but there is old Felice, with conical hat, brown cloak,
+     and bagpipes, father of half the models on the steps. He has been
+     seen in an artist's studio in Paris, and is reported to have
+     performed on foot the double journey between Rome and that capital.
+     There are two or three younger men in blue jackets and goat-skin
+     breeches; as many women in folded linen head-dresses, and red or
+     blue skirts; and a sprinkling of children of both sexes, in
+     costumes the miniature fac-similes of their elders. All these
+     speedily learn to recognise a visitor who is interested in that
+     especial branch of art which is embodied in models, and at every
+     turn in the street such a one is met by the flash of white teeth,
+     and the gracious sweetness of an Italian smile."--_H. M. B._
+
+     "Among what may be called the cubs or minor lions of Rome, there
+     was one that amused me mightily. It is always to be found there;
+     and its den is on the great flight of steps that lead from the
+     Piazza di Spagna to the Church of the Trinità de' Monti. In plainer
+     words, these steps are the great place of resort for the artists'
+     'Models,' and there they are constantly waiting to be hired. The
+     first time I went up there, I could not conceive why the faces
+     seemed so familiar to me; why they appeared to have beset me, for
+     years, in every possible variety of action and costume; and how it
+     came to pass that they started up before me, in Rome, in the broad
+     day, like so many saddled and bridled nightmares. I soon found that
+     we had made acquaintance, and improved it, for several years, on
+     the walls of various Exhibition Galleries. There is one old
+     gentleman with long white hair, and an immense beard, who, to my
+     knowledge, has gone half-through the catalogues of the Royal
+     Academy. This is the venerable or patriarchal model. He carries a
+     long staff; and every knob and twist in that staff I have seen,
+     faithfully delineated, innumerable times. There is another man in a
+     blue cloak, who always pretends to be asleep in the sun (when there
+     is any), and who, I need not say, is always very wide awake, and
+     very attentive to the disposition of his legs. This is the _dolce
+     far niente_ model. There is another man in a brown cloak, who leans
+     against a wall, with his arms folded in his mantle, and look out of
+     the corners of his eyes, which are just visible beneath his broad
+     slouched hat. This is the assassin model. There is another man, who
+     constantly looks over his own shoulder, and is always going away,
+     but never goes. This is the haughty or scornful model. As to
+     Domestic Happiness, and Holy Families, they should come very cheap,
+     for there are heaps of them, all up the steps; and the cream of the
+     thing is, that they are all the falsest vagabonds in the world,
+     especially made up for the purpose, and having no counterparts in
+     Rome or any other part of the habitable globe."--_Dickens._
+
+     "Climb these steps when the sun is setting. From a hundred belfries
+     the bells ring for Ave Maria, and there, across the town, and in a
+     blaze of golden glory, stands the great dome of St. Peter's: and
+     from the terrace of the Villa Medici you can see the whole
+     wonderful view, faintly pencilled Soracte far to your right, and
+     below you and around you the City and the Seven Hills."--_Vera._
+
+The _Barcaccia_, the fountain at the foot of the steps, executed by
+_Bernini_, is a stone boat commemorating the naumachia of
+Domitian,--naval battles which took place in an artificial lake
+surrounded by a kind of theatre, which once occupied the site of this
+piazza. In front of the _Palazzo di Spagna_ (the residence of the
+Spanish ambassador), which gives its name to the square, stands a
+_Column_ of cipollino, supporting a statue of the Virgin, erected by
+Pius IX. in 1854, in honour of his new dogma of the Immaculate
+Conception. At the base are figures of Moses, David, Isaiah, and
+Ezekiel.
+
+The Piazza di Spagna may be considered as the centre of the English
+quarter, of which the Corso forms the boundary.
+
+     "Every winter there is a gay and pleasant English colony in Rome,
+     of course more or less remarkable for rank, fashion, or
+     agreeability, with every varying year. Thrown together every day
+     and night after night, flocking to the same picture-galleries,
+     statue-galleries, Pincian drives, and church functions, the English
+     colonists at Rome perforce become intimate, and in many cases
+     friendly. They have an English library where the various meets for
+     the week are placarded: on such a day the Vatican galleries are
+     open; the next is the feast of Saint so-and-so; on Wednesday there
+     will be music and vespers at the Sistine Chapel; on Thursday the
+     pope will bless the animals--sheep, horses, and what-not; and
+     flocks of English accordingly rush to witness the benediction of
+     droves of donkeys. In a word, the ancient city of the Cæsars, the
+     august fanes of the popes, with their splendour and ceremony, are
+     all mapped out and arranged for English diversion."--Thackeray,
+     _The Newcomes._
+
+The Piazza is closed by the _Collegio di Propaganda Fede_, founded in
+1622 by Gregory XV., but enlarged by Urban VIII., who built the present
+edifice from plans of Bernini. Like all the buildings erected by this
+pope, its chief decorations are the bees of the Barberini. The object of
+the college is the education of youths of all nations as missionaries.
+
+     "The origin of the Propaganda is properly to be sought in an edict
+     of Gregory XIII., by which the direction of eastern missions was
+     confided to a certain number of cardinals, who were commanded to
+     promote the printing of catechisms in the less known tongues. But
+     the institution was not firmly established; it was unprovided with
+     the requisite means, and was by no means comprehensive in its
+     views. It was at the suggestion of the great preacher Girolamo da
+     Narni that the idea was first conceived of extending the
+     above-named institution. At his suggestion, a congregation was
+     established in all due form, and by this body regular meetings
+     were to be held for the guidance and conduct of missions in every
+     part of the world. The first funds were advanced by Gregory; his
+     nephew contributed from his private property; and since this
+     institution was in fact adapted to a want, the pressure of which
+     was then felt, it increased in prosperity and splendour. Who does
+     not know the services performed by the Propaganda for the diffusion
+     of philosophical studies? and not this only;--the institution has
+     generally laboured (in its earliest years most successfully,
+     perhaps) to fulfil its vocation in a liberal and noble
+     spirit."--_Ranke, Hist. of the Popes._
+
+     "On y reçoit des jeunes gens nés dans les pays ultramontains et
+     orientaux, où sont les infidéles et les hérétiques; ils y font leur
+     education religieuse et civile, et retournent dans leur pays comme
+     missionnaires pour propager la loi."--_A. Du Pays._
+
+     "Le collége du Propaganda Fede, ou l'on engraisse des missionnaires
+     pour donner à manger aux cannibales. C'est, ma foi, un excellent
+     ragout pour eux, que deux pères franciscains à la sauce rousse. Le
+     capucin en daube, se mange aussi comme le renard, quand il a été
+     gelé. Il y a à la Propagande une bibliothèque, une imprimerie
+     fournie de toutes sortes de caractères des langues orientales, et
+     de petits Chinois qu'on y élève ainsi que des alouettes
+     chanterelles, pour en attraper d'autres."--_De Brosses._
+
+In January a festival is held here, when speeches are recited by the
+pupils in all their different languages. The public is admitted by
+tickets.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The _Via Ripetta_ leaves the Piazza del Popolo on the right. Passing, on
+the right, a large building belonging to the Academy of St. Luke, we
+reach, on the right, the Quay of the Ripetta, a pretty architectural
+construction of Clement XI. in 1707.
+
+Hence, a clumsy ferry-boat gives access to a walk which leads to St.
+Peter's (by Porta Angelica) through the fields at the back of S. Angelo.
+These fields are of historic interest, being the _Prata Quinctia_ of
+Cincinnatus.
+
+     "L. Quinctius Cincinnatus, the only hope of the Roman people, lived
+     beyond the Tiber, opposite the place where the Navalia are, where
+     he cultivated the four acres of ground which are now called the
+     Quinctian meadows. There the messengers of the senate found him
+     leaning on his spade, either digging a trench or ploughing, but
+     certainly occupied in some field labour. The salutation, 'May it be
+     well with you and the republic,' was given and returned in the
+     usual form, and he was requested to put on his toga to receive a
+     message from the senate. Amazed, and asking if anything was wrong,
+     he desired his wife Racilia to fetch his toga from the cottage, and
+     having wiped off the sweat and dust with which he was covered, he
+     came forward dressed in his toga to the messengers, who saluted him
+     as dictator, and congratulated him."--_Livy_, iii. 26.
+
+The churches on the left of the Ripetta are, first, _SS. Rocco e
+Martino_, built 1657, by Antonio de Rossi, with a hospital adjoining it.
+
+     "The lying-in hospital adjoins the Church of San Rocco. It contains
+     seventy beds, furnished with curtains and screens, so as to
+     separate them effectually. Females are admitted without giving
+     their name, their country, or their condition in life; and such is
+     the delicacy observed in their regard, that they are at liberty to
+     wear a veil, so as to remain unknown even to their attendants, in
+     order to save the honour of their families, and prevent abortion,
+     suicide, or infanticide. Even should death ensue, the deceased
+     remains unknown. The children are conveyed to Santo Spirito; and
+     the mother who wishes to retain her offspring, affixes a
+     distinctive mark, by which it may be recognised and recovered. To
+     remove all disquietude from the minds of those who may enter, the
+     establishment is exempt from all civil, criminal, and
+     ecclesiastical jurisdiction, and its threshold is never crossed
+     except by persons connected with the establishment."--_Dr.
+     Donovan._
+
+Then, opposite the quay, _S. Girolamo degli Schiavoni_, built for Sixtus
+V. by Fontana. It contains, near the altar, a striking figure of St.
+Jerome, seated, with a book upon his knees.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+We will now follow the Corso, which, in spite of its narrowness and bad
+side-pavements, is the finest street in Rome. It is greatly to be
+regretted that this street, which is nearly a mile long, should lead to
+nothing, instead of ending at the steps of the Capitol, which would have
+produced a striking effect. It follows the line of the ancient Via
+Flaminia, and in consequence was once spanned by four triumphal
+arches--of Marcus Aurelius, Domitian, Claudius, and Gordian--but all
+these have disappeared. The Corso is perfectly lined with balconies,
+which, during the carnival, are filled with gay groups of maskers
+flinging confetti. These balconies are a relic of imperial times, having
+been invented at Rome, where they were originally called "Moeniana,"
+from the tribune Moenius, who designed them to accommodate spectators
+of processions in the streets below.
+
+     "The Corso is a street a mile long; a street of shops, and palaces,
+     and private houses, sometimes opening into a broad piazza. There
+     are verandahs and balconies, of all shapes and sizes, to almost
+     every house--not on one story alone, but often to one room or
+     another on every story--put there in general with so little order
+     or regularity, that if, year after year, and season after season,
+     it had rained balconies, hailed balconies, snowed balconies, blown
+     balconies, they could scarcely have come into existence in a more
+     disorderly manner."--_Dickens._
+
+On the left of the Corso is the Augustine Church of _Gesù e Maria_, with
+a façade by _Rinaldi_. Almost opposite, is the Church of _S. Giacomo
+degli Incurabili_, by _Carlo Maderno_. It is attached to a surgical
+hospital for 350 patients. In the adjoining Strada S. Giacomo was the
+studio of Canova, recognizable by fragments of bas-reliefs engrafted in
+its walls.
+
+Three streets beyond this (on right) is the _Via de' Pontefici_ (so
+called from a series of papal portraits, now destroyed, which formerly
+existed on the walls of one of its houses), where (No. 57R) is the
+entrance to the remains of the _Mausoleum of Augustus_.
+
+     "Hard by the banks of the Tiber, in the grassy meadows where the
+     Roman youths met in athletic and martial exercises, there rose a
+     lofty marble tower with three retiring stages, each of which had
+     its terrace covered with earth and planted with cypresses. These
+     stages were pierced with numerous chambers, destined to receive,
+     row within row, and story upon story, the remains of every member
+     of the imperial family, with many thousands of their slaves and
+     freedmen. In the centre of that massive mound the great founder of
+     the empire was to sleep his last sleep, while his statue was
+     ordained to rise conspicuous on its summit, and satiate its
+     everlasting gaze with the view of his beloved city."--_Merivale._
+
+The first funeral here was that of Marcellus, son of Octavia, the sister
+of Augustus, and first husband of his daughter Julia, who died of
+malaria at Baiæ, B.C. 23.
+
+    "Quantos ille virûm magnam Mavortis ad urbem
+    Campus aget gemitus! vel quæ, Tiberine, videbis
+    Funera, cum tumulum præterlabere recentem!
+    Nec puer Iliacâ quisquam de gente Latinos
+    In tantum spe tollet avos; nec Romula quondam
+    Ullo se tantum tellus jactabit alumno.
+    Heu pietas, heu prisca fides, invictaque bello
+    Dextera! non illi se quisquam impune tulisset
+    Obvius armato, seu quum pedes iret in hostem,
+    Seu spumantis equi foderet calcaribus armos.
+    Heu, miserande puer! si qua fata aspera rumpas,
+    Tu Marcellus eris."
+
+    _Æneid_, vi. 873.
+
+The next member of the family buried here was Agrippa, the second
+husband of Julia, ob. 12 B.C. Then came Octavia, sister of the emperor
+and widow of Antony, honoured by a public funeral, at which orations
+were delivered by Augustus himself, and Drusus, son of the empress
+Livia. Her body was carried to the tomb by Tiberius (afterwards
+emperor) and Drusus, the two sons of the empress. Drusus (B.C. 9) died
+in a German campaign by a fall from his horse, and was brought back
+hither for interment. In A.D. 14 the great Augustus died at Nola, and
+his body was burnt here on a funeral pile so gigantic, that the widowed
+Livia, dishevelled and ungirt, with bare feet, attended by the principal
+Roman senators, had to watch it for five days and nights, before it
+cooled sufficiently for them to collect the ashes of the emperor. At the
+moment of its being lighted an eagle was let loose from the summit of
+the pyre, under which form a senator, named Numerius Atticus, was
+induced, by a gift from Livia equivalent to 250,000 francs, to swear
+that he saw the spirit of Augustus fly away to heaven. Then came
+Germanicus, son of the first Drusus, and nephew of Tiberius, ob. A.D.
+19, at Antioch, where he was believed to have been poisoned by Piso and
+his wife Plancina. Then, in A.D. 23, Drusus, son of Tiberius, poisoned
+by his wife, Livilla, and her lover, Sejanus: then the empress, Livia,
+who died A.D. 29, at the age of 86. Agrippina, widow of Germanicus (ob.
+A.D. 33), starved to death, and her two sons, Nero and Drusus, also
+murdered by Tiberius, were long excluded from the family sepulchre, but
+were eventually brought hither by the youngest brother Caius, afterwards
+the emperor Caligula. Tiberius, who died A.D. 37, at the villa of
+Lucullus at Misenum, was brought here for burial. The ashes of Caligula,
+murdered A.D. 41, and first buried in the Horti Lamiani on the
+Esquiline, were transferred here by his sisters. In his reign, Antonia,
+the widow of Drusus, and mother of Germanicus, had died, and her ashes
+were laid up here. The Emperor Claudius, A.D. 54, murdered by Agrippina;
+his son, Britannicus, A.D. 55, murdered by Nero; and the Emperor Nerva,
+A.D. 98, were the latest inmates of the mausoleum.
+
+The last cremation which occurred here was long after the mausoleum had
+fallen into ruin, when the body of the tribune Rienzi, after having hung
+for two days at S. Marcello, was ordered to be burnt here by Jugurta and
+Sciaretta, and was consumed by a vast multitude of Jews (out of flattery
+to the Colonna, their neighbours at the Ghetto), "in a fire of dry
+thistles, till it was reduced to ashes, and no fibre of it remained."
+
+There is nothing now remaining to testify to the former magnificence of
+this building. The area is used in summer as an open-air theatre, where
+very amusing little plays are very well acted. Among its massive cells a
+poor washerwoman, known as "Sister Rose," established, some ten years
+ago, a kind of hospital for aged women (several of them centagenarians),
+whom she supported entirely by her own exertions, having originally
+begun by taking care of one old woman, and gradually adding another and
+another. The English church service was first performed in Rome in the
+Palazzo Correa, adjoining this building.
+
+Opposite the Via de' Pontefici, the _Via Vittoria_ leaves the Corso. To
+the Ursuline convent in this street (founded by Camilla Borghese in the
+seventeenth century) Madame Victoire and Madame Adelaide ("tantes du
+Roi") fled in the beginning of the great French revolution, and here
+they died.
+
+_The Church of S. Carlo in Corso_ (on right) is the national church of
+the Lombards. It is a handsome building with a fine dome. The interior
+was commenced by _Lunghi_ in 1614, and finished by _Pietro da Cortona_.
+It contains no objects of interest, unless a picture of the Apotheosis
+of S. Carlo Borromeo (the patron of the church), over the high altar, by
+_Carlo Maratta_, can be called so. The heart of the saint is preserved
+under the altar.
+
+Just beyond this on the left, the _Via Condotti_--almost lined with
+jewellers'-shops--branches off to the Piazza di Spagna. The Trinità de'
+Monti is seen beyond it. The opposite street, Via Fontanella, leads to
+St. Peter's, and in five minutes to the magnificent--
+
+_Palazzo Borghese_, begun in 1590 by Cardinal Deza, from designs of
+Martino Lunghi, and finished by Paul V. (Camillo Borghese, 1605-21),
+from those of Flaminio Ponzio. The apartments inhabited by the family
+are handsome, but contain few objects of interest.
+
+     "In the reign of Paul V. the Borghese became the wealthiest and
+     most powerful family in Rome. In the year 1612, the church
+     benefices already conferred upon Cardinal Scipione Borghese were
+     computed to secure him an income of 150,000 scudi. The temporal
+     offices were bestowed on Marc-Antonio Borghese, on whom the pope
+     also conferred the principality of Sulmona in Naples, besides
+     giving him rich palaces in Rome and the most beautiful villas in
+     the neighbourhood. He loaded his nephews with presents; we have a
+     list of them through his whole reign down to the year 1620. They
+     are sometimes jewels or vessels of silver, or magnificent
+     furniture, which was taken directly from the stores of the palace
+     and sent to the nephews; at other times carriages, rich arms, as
+     muskets and falconets, were presented to them; but the principal
+     thing was the round sums of hard money. These accounts make it
+     appear that to the year 1620, they had received in ready money
+     689,627 scudi, 31 baj; in luoghi di monte, 24,600 scudi, according
+     to their nominal value; in places, computing them at the sum their
+     sale would have brought to the treasury, 268,176 scudi; all which
+     amounted, as in the case of the Aldobrandini, to nearly a million.
+
+     "Nor did the Borghese neglect to invest their wealth in real
+     property. They acquired eighty estates in the Campagna of Rome; the
+     Roman nobles suffering themselves to be tempted into the sale of
+     their ancient hereditary domain by the large prices paid them, and
+     by the high rate of interest borne by the luoghi di monte, which
+     they purchased with the money thus acquired. In many other parts of
+     the ecclesiastical states, the Borghese also seated themselves, the
+     pope facilitating their doing so by the grant of peculiar
+     privileges. In some places, for example, they received the right of
+     restoring exiles; in others, that of holding a market, or certain
+     exemptions were granted to those who became their vassals. They
+     were freed from various imposts, and even obtained a bull, by
+     virtue of which their possessions were never to be
+     confiscated."--_Ranke, Hist. of the Popes._
+
+     "Si l'on peut reprocher à Paul, avec Muratori, ses libéralités
+     envers ses neveux, envers le cardinal Scipion, envers le duc de
+     Sulmone, il est juste d'ajouter que la plupart des membres de cette
+     noble famille rivalisèrent avec le pape de magnificence et de
+     générosité. Or, chaque année, Paul V. distribuait un million d'écus
+     d'or aux pélerins pauvres et un million et demi aux autres
+     nécessiteux. C'est à lui que remonte la fondation de la banque du
+     Saint-Esprit, dont les riches immeubles servirent d'hypothèques aux
+     dépôts qui lui furent confiés. Mais ce fut surtout dans les
+     constructions qu'il entreprit, que Paul V. déploya une royale
+     magnificence."--_Gournerie._
+
+     "The Palazzo Borghese is an immense edifice standing round the four
+     sides of a quadrangle; and though the suite of rooms, comprising
+     the picture-gallery, forms an almost interminable vista, they
+     occupy only a part of the ground-floor of one side. We enter from
+     the street into a large court surrounded with a corridor, the
+     arches of which support a second series of arches above. The
+     picture-rooms open from one into another, and have many points of
+     magnificence, being large and lofty, with vaulted ceilings and
+     beautiful frescoes, generally of mythological subjects, in the flat
+     central parts of the vault. The cornices are gilded; the deep
+     embrasures of the windows are panelled with wood-work; the doorways
+     are of polished and variegated marble, or covered with a
+     composition as hard, and seemingly as durable. The whole has a kind
+     of splendid shabbiness thrown over it, like a slight coating of
+     rust; the furniture, at least the damask chairs, being a good deal
+     worn; though there are marble and mosaic tables which may serve to
+     adorn another palace, when this has crumbled away with
+     age."--_Hawthorne._
+
+The Borghese Picture Gallery is the best private collection in Rome, and
+is open to the public daily from 9 to 2, except on Saturdays and
+Sundays. The gallery is entered from the side of the palace towards the
+Piazza Borghese. It contains several gems, which are here marked with
+an asterisk; noticeable pictures are:--
+
+     _1st Room._--Schools of Milan and Perugia.
+
+    1. Holy Family: _Sandro Botticelli_.
+    2. Holy Family: _Lorenzo di Credi_.
+    3. Holy Family: _Paris Alfani Perugino_.
+    4. Portrait: _Lorenzo di Credi_.
+    5. Vanity: _School of Leonardo da Vinci_.
+    27, 28. Petrarch and Laura.
+    32. St. Agatha: _School of Leonardo_.
+    33. The Young Christ: _School of Leonardo_.
+    34. Madonna: _School of Perugino_.
+    35. Raphael as a boy: _Raphael?_
+    43. Madonna: _Francesco Francia?_
+    44. Calvario: _C. Crivelli_.
+    48. St. Sebastian: _Perugino_.
+    49, 57. History of Joseph: _Pinturicchio_.
+    59. Presepio: _Sketch attributed to Raphael when young_.
+    61. St. Antonio: _Francesco Francia_.
+    66. Presepio: _Mazzolino_.
+    67. Adoration of the Child Jesus: _Ortolano_.
+    68. Christ and St. Thomas: _Mazzolino?_
+    69. Holy Family: _Pollajuolo_.
+
+     _2nd Room._--Chiefly of the school of Garofalo.
+
+    6. Madonna with St. Joseph and St. Michael: _Garofalo_.
+    9. The mourners over the dead Christ: _Garofalo_.*
+    18. Portrait of Julius II.: _Giulio Romano, after Raphael_.
+    22. Portrait of a Cardinal: _Bronzino? called Raphael_.*
+    23. 'Madonna col divin' amore': _School of Raphael_.*
+    26. Portrait of Cæsar Borgia: _Bronzino, attributed to Raphael_.*[5]
+    28. Portrait of a (naked) woman: _Bronzino_.
+    36. Holy Family: _Andrea del Sarto_.
+    38. Entombment: _Raphael_.*
+
+     This picture was the last work of Raphael before he went to Rome.
+     It was ordered by Atalanta Baglioni for a chapel in S. Francesco
+     de' Conventuali at Perugia. Paul V. bought it for the Borghese.
+     The 'Faith, Hope, and Charity' at the Vatican, formed a predella
+     for this picture.
+
+     "Raphael's picture of 'Bearing the Body of Christ to the
+     Sepulchre,' though meriting all its fame in respect of drawing,
+     expression, and knowledge, has lost all signs of reverential
+     feeling in the persons of the bearers. The reduced size of the
+     winding-sheet is to blame for this, by bringing them rudely in
+     contact with their precious burden. Nothing can be finer than their
+     figures, or more satisfactory than their labour, if we forget what
+     it is they are carrying; but it is the weight of the burden only,
+     and not the character of it, which the painter has kept in view,
+     and we feel that the result would have been the same had these
+     figures been carrying a sack of sand. Here, from the youth of the
+     figure, the bearer at the feet appears to be St. John."--_Lady
+     Eastlake._
+
+    40. Holy Family: _Fra Bartolomeo_.
+    43. Madonna: _Fr. Francia_.
+    44. Madonna: _Sodoma_.
+    51. St. Stephen: _Francesco Francia_.*
+    59. Adoration of the Magi: _Mazzolino_.
+    60. Presepio: _Garofalo_.
+    65. The Fornarina: _Copy of Raphael, Giulio Romano?_
+    69. St. John Baptist in the Wilderness: _Giulio Romano_.
+
+_3rd Room._--Chiefly of the school of Andrea del Sarto. (The works of
+this painter are often confounded with those of his disciple, Domenico
+Puligo.)
+
+    1. Christ bearing the Cross: _Andrea Solario_.
+    2. Portrait: _Parmigianino._
+    5. 'Noli me tangere': _Bronzino?_
+    11. The Sorceress Circe: _Dosso Dossi_.
+    13. Mater Dolorosa: _Solario?_
+    22. Holy Family: _School of Raphael_.
+    24. Madonna and Child with three children: _A. del Sarto_.
+    28. Madonna, Child, and St. John: _A. del Sarto_.
+    29. Madonna, Child, St. John, and St. Elizabeth: _Pierino del
+    Vaga_.
+    33. Holy Family: _Pierino del Vaga_.
+    35. Venus and Cupids: _A. del Sarto_.
+    40. Danae: _Correggio_.*
+
+In the corner of this picture are the celebrated Cupids sharpening an
+arrow.
+
+    42. Cosmo de' Medici: _Bronzino_.
+    46. The Reading Magdalene: _School of Correggio_.
+    47. Holy Family: _Pomarancio_.
+    48. The Flagellation: _Sebastian del Piombo_.*
+    49. St. M. Magdalene: _A. del Sarto_.
+
+_4th Room._--Bolognese school.
+
+    1. Entombment: _Ann. Carracci_.
+    2. Cumæan Sibyl: _Domenichino_.*
+    18. St. Francis: _Cigoli_.
+    20. St. Joseph: _Guido Reni_.
+    23. St. Francis: _Ann. Carracci_.
+    29. St. Domenic: _Ann. Carracci_.
+    36. Madonna: _Carlo Dolce_.
+    37. Mater Dolorosa: _Carlo Dolce_.
+    38, 41. Two heads for an Annunciation: _Furino_.
+    42. Head of Christ: _Carlo Dolce_.
+    43. Madonna: _Sassoferrato_.
+
+_5th Room._--
+
+    11, 12, 13, 14. The Four Seasons: _Fr. Albani_.
+
+     "The Seasons, by Francesco Albani, were, beyond all others, my
+     favourite pieces; the beautiful, joyous, angel-children--the Loves,
+     were as if creations of my own dreams. How deliciously they were
+     staggering about in the picture of Spring! A crowd of them were
+     sharpening arrows, whilst one of them turned round the great
+     grindstone, and two others, floating above, poured water upon it.
+     In Summer, they flew about among the tree-branches, which were
+     loaded with fruit, which they plucked; they swam in the fresh
+     water, and played with it. Autumn brought the pleasures of the
+     chase. Cupid sits, with a torch in his hand, in his little chariot,
+     which two of his companions draw; while Love beckons to the brisk
+     hunter, and shows him the place where they can rest themselves side
+     by side. Winter has lulled all the little ones to sleep; soundly
+     and fast they lie slumbering around. The Nymphs steal their quivers
+     and arrows, which they throw on the fire, that there may be an end
+     of the dangerous weapons."--_Andersen, in The Improvisatore._
+
+    15. La Caccia di Diana: _Domenichino_.
+    25. The Deposition, with Angels: _F. Zuccari_.
+
+_6th Room._--
+
+    5. Return of the Prodigal Son: _Guercino_.
+    7. Portrait of G. Ghislieri: _Pietro da Cortona_.
+    10. St Stanislaus with the Child Jesus: _Ribera_.*
+    12. Joseph Interpreting the Dreams in Prison: _Valentin_.
+    13. The Three Ages of Man. _Copy from Titian by Sassoferrato_.[6]
+    18. Madonna: _Sassoferrato_.
+    22. Flight of Æneas from Troy: _Baroccio_.
+
+_7th Room._--Richly decorated with mirrors, painted with Cupids by
+_Girofiri_, and wreaths of flowers by _Mario di Fiori_.
+
+_8th Room._--Contains nothing of importance, except a mosaic portrait of
+Paul V. by _Marcello Provenzali_.
+
+_9th Room._--Containing several interesting frescoes.
+
+    1. The Nuptials of Alexander and Roxana.
+    2. The Nuptials of Vertumnus and Pomona.
+    3. 'Il Bersaglio dei Dei.'
+
+     These three frescoes were brought hither from the Casino of
+     Raphael, in the Villa Borghese (destroyed in the siege of Rome in
+     1849), and are supposed to have been painted by some of Raphael's
+     pupils from his designs. The other frescoes in this room are by
+     _Giulio Romano_, and were removed from the Villa Lante, when it was
+     turned into a convent.
+
+_10th Room._--
+
+    2. Cupid blindfolded by Venus: _Titian_.
+    4. Judith: _School of Titian_.
+    9. Portrait: _Pordenone_.
+    13. David with the head of Goliath: _Giorgione_.*
+    14. St. John the Baptist preaching (unfinished): _Paul Veronese_.
+    16. St. Domenic: _Titian_.
+    19. Portrait: _Giac. Bassano_.
+    21. 'Sacred and Profane Love': _Titian_.*
+
+     "Out of Venice there is nothing of Titian's to compare to his
+     Sacred and Profane Love. It represents two figures: one, a heavenly
+     and youthful form, unclothed, except with a light drapery; the
+     other, a lovely female, dressed in the most splendid attire; both
+     are sitting on the brink of a well, into which a little winged Love
+     is groping, apparently to find his lost dart.... Description can
+     give no idea of the consummate beauty of this composition. It has
+     all Titian's matchless warmth of colouring, with a correctness of
+     design no other painter of the Venetian school ever attained. It
+     is nature, but not individual nature: it is ideal beauty in all its
+     perfection, and breathing life in all its truth, that we
+     behold."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+     "Two female forms are seated on the edge of a sarcophagus-shaped
+     fountain, the one in a rich Venetian costume, with gloves, flowers
+     in her hands, and a plucked rose beside her, is in deep meditation,
+     as if solving some difficult question. The other is unclothed; a
+     red drapery is falling behind her, while she exhibits a form of the
+     utmost beauty and delicacy; she is turning towards the other figure
+     with the sweetest persuasiveness of expression. A Cupid is playing
+     in the fountain; in the distance is a rich, glowing
+     landscape."--_Kugler._
+
+    30. Madonna: _Giov. Bellini_.
+    34. St. Cosmo and Damian: _Venetian School_.
+
+_11th Room._--Veronese school.
+
+    1. Madonna with Adam (?) and St. Augustine: _Lorenzo Lotto_, MDVIII.
+    2. St. Anthony preaching to the Fishes: _P. Veronese?_
+    3. Madonna: _Titian?_
+    11. Venus and Cupid on Dolphins: _Luc. Cambiaso_.
+    14. Last Supper: _And. Schiavone_.
+    15. Christ and the Mother of Zebedee's Children: _Bonifazio_.*
+    16. Return of the Prodigal Son: _Bonifazio_.*
+    17. Samson: _Titian_.
+    18. Christ and the Woman taken in Adultery: _Bonifazio_.
+    19. Madonna and Saints: _Palma Vecchio_.
+
+     In this picture the donors are introduced--the head of the man is
+     grandly devout and beautiful.
+
+    25. Portrait of Himself: _Titian?_
+    27. Portrait: _Giov. Bellini_.
+    31. Madonna and St. Peter: _Giov. Bellini_.
+    32. Holy Family: _Palma Vecchio_.
+    33. Portrait of the Family of Licini da Pordenone: _Bart.
+        Licini da Pordenone_.
+
+_12th Room._--Dutch and German school.
+
+    1. Crucifixion: _Vandyke_.
+    7. Entombment: _Vandyke_.
+    8. Tavern Scene: _Teniers_.
+    9. Interior: _Brouerer_.
+    19. Louis VI. of Bavaria: _Albert Dürer?_
+    21. Portrait: _Holbein_.
+    21. Landscape and Horses: _Wouvermann_.
+    22. Cattle-piece: _Paul Potter_.
+    24. Portrait: _Holbein_.
+    26. Skating (in brown): _Berghem_.
+    27. Portrait: _Vandyke_.
+    35. Portrait: _Lucas von Leyden?_
+    44. Venus and Cupid: _Lucas Cranach_.
+
+The _Palazzetto Borghese_ on the opposite side of the piazza, originally
+intended as a dower-house for the family, is now let in apartments. It
+is this house which is described as the "Palazzo Clementi," in
+_Mademoiselle Mori_.
+
+At the corner of the Via Fontanella and the Corso is the handsome
+_Palazzo Ruspoli_, built by Ammanati in 1586. It has a grand white
+marble staircase erected by Lunghi in 1750. Beyond this are the palaces
+_Fiano_, _Verospi_, and _Teodoli_.
+
+     "Les palais de Rome, bien que n'ayant pas un caractère original
+     comme ceux de Florence ou de Venise n'en sont pas moins cependant
+     un des traits de la ville des papes. Ils n'appartiennent ni au
+     moyen age, ni à la renaissance (la Palais de Venise seul rappelle
+     les constructions massives de Florence); ils sont des modèles
+     d'architecture civile moderne. Les Bramante, les Sangallo, les
+     Balthazar Peruzzi, qui les ont batis, sont des maîtres qu'on ne se
+     lasse pas d'étudier. La magnificence de ces palais reside
+     principalement dans leur architecture et dans les collections
+     artistiques que quelques-uns contiennent. Un certain nombre sont
+     malheureusement dans un triste état d'abandon. De plus, à
+     l'exception d'un très petit nombre, ils sont restés inachevés. Cela
+     se conçoit; presque tous sont le produit du luxe célibataire des
+     papes ou des cardinaux; très-peu de ces personages ont pu voir la
+     fin de ce qu'ils avaient commencé. Leurs heritiers, pour le
+     plupart, se souciaient fort peu de jeter les richesses qu'ils
+     venaient d'acquerir dans les édifices de luxe et de vanité. A
+     l'intérieur, le plus souvent, est un mobilier rare, suranné, et
+     mesquin."--_A. Du Pays._[7]
+
+The _Palazzo Bernini_ (151 Corso), on the left, has, inside its
+entrance, a curious statue of "Calumny" by _Bernini_, with an
+inscription relative to his own sufferings from slander.
+
+On the right, the small piazza of S. Lorenzo opens out of the Corso.
+Here is the _Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina_, founded in the fifth
+century, but rebuilt in its present form by Paul V. in 1606. The
+campanile is of an older date, and so are the lions in the portico.
+
+     "When the lion, or other wild beast, appears in the act of preying
+     on a smaller animal or on a man, is implied the severity of the
+     Church towards the impenitent or heretical; but when in the act of
+     sporting with another creature, her benignity towards the neophyte
+     and the docile. At the portal of St Lorenzo in Lucina, this idea is
+     carried out in the figure of a mannikin affectionately stroking the
+     head of the terrible creature who protects, instead of devouring
+     him."--_Hemans' Christian Art._
+
+No one should omit seeing the grand picture of _Guido Reni_, over the
+high altar of this church,--the Crucifixion, seen against a wild, stormy
+sky. Niccolas Poussin, ob. 1660, is buried here, and one of his best
+known Arcadian landscapes is reproduced in a bas-relief upon his tomb,
+which was erected by Chateaubriand, with the epitaph,--
+
+    "Parce piis lacrymis, vivit Pussinus in urnâ,
+      Vivus qui dederat, nescius ipse mori.
+    Hîc tamen ipse silet; si vis audire loquentem,
+      Mirum est, in tabulis vivit, et eloquitur."
+
+
+In "The Ring and the Book" of Browning, this church is the scene of
+Pompilia's baptism and marriage. She is made to say:--
+
+           --"This St. Lorenzo seems
+    My own particular place, I always say.
+    I used to wonder, when I stood scarce high
+    As the bed here, what the marble lion meant,
+    Eating the figure of a prostrate man."
+
+
+Here the bodies of her parents are represented as being exposed after
+the murder:
+
+           --"beneath the piece
+    Of Master Guido Reni, Christ on Cross,
+    Second to nought observable in Rome."
+
+
+On the left, where the Via della Vite turns out of the Corso, an
+inscription in the wall records the destruction, in 1665, of the
+triumphal arch of Marcus Aurelius, which existed here till that time.
+The magnificence of this arch is attested by the bas-reliefs
+representing the history of the emperor, which were removed from it, and
+are preserved on the staircase of the palace of the Conservators.
+
+     "Les Barbares n'en savaient pas assez et n'avaient pas assez de
+     patience pour démolir les monuments romains; mais, avec les
+     ressources de la science moderne et à la suite d'une administration
+     régulière, on est venu à bout de presque tout ce que le temps avait
+     épargné. Il y'avait, par exemple, au commencement du XVIe.
+     siècle, quatre arcs de triomphe qui n'existent plus; le dernier,
+     celui de Marc Aurele, a été enlevé par le pape Alexandre VII. On
+     lit encore dans le Corso l'inconcevable inscription dans laquelle
+     le pape se vante d'avoir debarrassé la promenade publique de ce
+     monument, qui, vu sa date, devait être d'un beau style."--_Ampère,
+     Voyage Dantesque._
+
+A little further down the Corso, on the left, the Via delle Convertite
+leads to _S. Sylvestro in Capite_, one of three churches in Rome
+dedicated to the sainted pope of the time of Constantine. This, like S.
+Lorenzo, has a fine mediæval campanile. The day of St. Sylvester's
+death, December 31 (A.D. 335), is kept here with great solemnity, and is
+celebrated by magnificent musical services. This pope was buried in the
+cemetery of Priscilla, whence his remains were removed to S. Martino al
+Monte. The title "In Capite" is given to this church on account of the
+head of St John Baptist, which it professes to possess, as is narrated
+by an inscription engrafted into its walls.
+
+The convent attached to this church was founded in 1318, especially for
+noble sisters of the house of Colonna who dedicated themselves to God.
+Here it was that the celebrated Vittoria Colonna, Marchesa di Pescara,
+came to reside in 1525, when widowed in her thirty-sixth year, and here
+she began to write her sonnets, a kind of "In Memoriam," to her husband.
+It is a curious proof of the value placed upon her remaining in the
+world, that Pope Clement VII. was persuaded to send a brief to the
+abbess and nuns, desiring them to offer her "all spiritual and temporal
+consolations," but forbidding them, under pain of the greater
+excommunication, to permit her to take the veil in her affliction.[8]
+
+At the end of this street, continued under the name of Via de Mercede
+(No. 11 was the residence of Bernini), and behind the Propaganda, is the
+_Church of S. Andrea delle Fratte_, whose brick cupola by Borromini is
+so picturesque a feature. The bell-tower beside it swings when the bells
+are rung. In the second chapel on the right is the beautiful modern tomb
+of Mademoiselle Julie Falconnet, by Miss Hosmer. The opposite chapel is
+remarkable for a modern miracle (?) annually commemorated here.
+
+     "M. Ratisbonne, un juif, appartenant à une très-riche famille
+     d'Alsace, qui se trouvait accidentellement à Rome, se promenant
+     dans l'église de S. Andrea delle Fratte pendant qu'on y faisait les
+     préparatifs pour les obsèques de M. de la Ferronays, s'y est
+     converti subitement. Il se trouvait debout en face d'une chapelle
+     dédiée à l'ange gardien, à quelques pas, lorsque tout-à-coup il a
+     eu une apparition lumineuse de la Sainte Vierge qui lui a fait
+     signe d'aller vers cette chapelle. Une force irrésistible l'y a
+     entraíné, il y est tombé à genoux, et il a été à l'instant
+     chrétien. Sa première parole à celui qui l'avait accompagné a été,
+     en relevant son visage inondé de larmes: 'Il faut que ce monsieur
+     ait beaucoup prié pour moi.'"--_Récit d'une Soeur._
+
+     "Era un istante ch'io mi stava in chiesa allora che di colpo mi
+     sentii preso da inesprimibile conturbamento. Alzai gli occhi; tutto
+     l'edifizio s'era dileguato a' miei sguardi; sola una cappella aveva
+     come in se raccolta tutta la luce, e di mezzo di raggianti
+     splendori s' è mostrata diritta sull'altare, grande,
+     sfolgoreggiante, piena di maestà, e di dolcezza, la Vergine Maria.
+     Una forza irresistibile m'ha sospinto verso di lei. La Vergine m'ha
+     fatto della mano segno d'inginocchiarmi; pareva volermi dire,
+     'Bene!' Ella non mi ha parlato ma io ho inteso tutto."--_Recital of
+     Alfonse Ratisbonne._[9]
+
+M. de la Ferronays, whose character is now so well known from the
+beautiful family memoirs of Mrs. Augustus Craven, is buried beneath the
+altar where this vision occurred. In the third chapel on the left is the
+tomb of Angelica Kauffmann; in the right aisle that of the Prussian
+artist, Schadow. The two angels in front of the choir are by _Bernini_,
+who intended them for the bridge of S. Angelo.
+
+Returning to the Corso, the Via S. Claudio (left) leads to the pretty
+little church of that name, adjoining the Palazzo Parisani. Behind, is
+the Church of Sta. Maria in Via.
+
+At the corner of the Piazza Colonna is the _Palazzo Chigi_, begun in
+1526 by Giacomo della Porta, and finished by Carlo Maderno. It contains
+several good pictures and a fine library, but is seldom shown.[10]
+
+The most remarkable members of the great family of Chigi have been the
+famous banker Agostino Chigi, who lived so sumptuously at the Farnesina
+(see chap. 20), and Fabio Chigi, who mounted the papal throne as
+Alexander VII., and who long refused to have anything to do with the
+aggrandisement of his family, saying that the poor were the only
+relations he would acknowledge, and, like Christ, he did not wish for
+any nearer ones. To keep himself in mind of the shortness of earthly
+grandeur, this pope always kept a coffin in his room, and drank out of a
+cup shaped like a skull.
+
+The side of the _Piazza Colonna_, which faces the Corso, is occupied by
+the Post-Office. On its other sides are the Piombino and Ferrajuoli
+palaces, of no interest. In the centre is placed the fine _Column_,
+which was found on the Monte Citorio in 1709, having been originally
+erected by the senate and people A.D. 174, to the Emperor Marcus
+Aurelius Antoninus (adopted son of the Emperor Hadrian,--husband of his
+niece, Annia Faustina,--father of the Emperor Commodus). It is
+surrounded by bas-reliefs, representing the conquest of the Marcomanni.
+One of these has long been an especial object of interest, from being
+supposed to represent a divinity (Jupiter?) sending rain to the troops,
+in answer to the prayers of a Christian legion from Mitylene. Eusebius
+gives the story, stating that the piety of these Christians induced the
+emperor to ask their prayers in his necessity, and a letter in Justin
+Martyr (of which the authenticity is much doubted), in which Aurelius
+allows the fact, is produced in proof. The statue of St. Paul on the
+top of the column was erected by Sixtus V.; the pedestal also is modern.
+
+Behind the Piazza Colonna is the _Piazza Monte Citorio_, containing an
+_Obelisk_ which was discovered in broken fragments near the Church of S.
+Lorenzo in Lucina. It was repaired with pieces of the column of
+Antoninus Pius, the pedestal of which may still be seen in the Vatican
+garden. Its hieroglyphics are very perfect and valuable, and show that
+it was erected more than 600 years before Christ, in honour of
+Psammeticus I. It was brought from Heliopolis by Augustus, and erected
+by him in the Campus Martius, where it received the name of Obeliscus
+Solaris, from being made to act as a sun-dial.
+
+     "Ei, qui est in campo, divus Augustus addidit mirabilem usum ad
+     deprehendendas solis umbras, dierumque ac noctium ita magnitudines,
+     strato lapide ad magnitudinem obelisci, cui par fieret umbra, brumæ
+     confectæ die, sexta hora; paulatimque per regulas (quæ sunt ex die
+     exclusæ) singulis diebus decresceret ac rursus augesceret: digna
+     cognitu res et ingenio foecundo. Manilius mathematicus apici
+     auratam pilam addidit, cujus umbra vertice colligeretur in se ipsa
+     alias enormiter jaculante apice ratione (ut ferunt) a capite
+     hominis intellecta. Hæc observatio triginta jam ferè annos non
+     congruit, sive solis ipsius dissono cursu, et coeli aliqua
+     ratione mutato, sive universa tellure a centra suo aliquid emota ut
+     deprehendi et in aliis locis accipio: sive urbis tremoribus ibi
+     tantum gnomone intorto, sive inundationibus Tiberis sedimento molis
+     facto: quanquam ad altitudinem impositi oneris in terram quoque
+     dicantur acta fundamenta."--_Plin. Nat. Hist._ lib. xxxiv. 14.
+
+_The Palace of the Monte Citorio_ (designed by Bernini) contains public
+offices connected with police, passports, &c. On the opposite side of
+the piazza are the Railway and Telegraph Offices.
+
+Proceeding up the Corso, the Via di Pietra (right) leads into the small
+Piazza di Pietra, one side of which is occupied by the eleven remaining
+columns of the _Temple of Neptune_, built up by Innocent XII. into the
+walls of the modern Custom-house. It is worth while to enter the
+courtyard in order to look back and observe the immense masses of stone
+above the entrance, part of the ancient temple,--which are here
+uncovered.
+
+Close to this, behind the Palazzo Cini, in the Piazza Orfanelli, is the
+_Teatro Capranica_, occupying part of a palace of _c._ 1350, with gothic
+windows. The opposite church, _Sta. Maria in Aquiro_, recalls by its
+name the column of the Equiria, celebrated in ancient annals as the
+place where certain games and horse-races, instituted by Romulus, were
+celebrated. Ovid describes them in his Fasti. The church was founded
+_c._ 400, but was re-built under Francesco da Volterra in 1590.
+
+A small increase of width in the Corso is now dignified by the name of
+the _Piazza Sciarra_. The street which turns off hence, under an arch
+(Via de Muratte, on the left), leads to the _Fountain of Trevi_, erected
+in 1735 by Niccolo Salvi for Clement XII. The statue of Neptune is by
+Pietro Bracci.
+
+     "The fountain of Trevi draws its precious water from a source far
+     beyond the walls, whence it flows hitherward through old
+     subterranean aqueducts, and sparkles forth as pure as the virgin
+     who first led Agrippa to its well-springs by her father's door. In
+     the design of the fountain, some sculptor of Bernini's school has
+     gone absolutely mad, in marble. It is a great palace-front, with
+     niches and many bas-reliefs, out of which looks Agrippa's legendary
+     virgin, and several of the allegoric sisterhood; while at the base
+     appears Neptune with his floundering steeds and tritons blowing
+     their horns about him, and twenty other artificial fantasies, which
+     the calm moonlight soothes into better taste than is native to
+     them. And, after all, it is as magnificent a piece of work as ever
+     human skill contrived. At the foot of the palatial façade, is
+     strown, with careful art and ordered regularity, a broad and broken
+     heap of massive rock, looking as if it may have lain there since
+     the deluge. Over a central precipice falls the water, in a
+     semicircular cascade; and from a hundred crevices, on all sides,
+     snowy jets gush up, and streams spout out of the mouths and
+     nostrils of stone monsters, and fall in glistening drops; while
+     other rivulets, that have run wild, come leaping from one rude step
+     to another, over stones that are mossy, shining and green with
+     sedge, because, in a century of their wild play, nature has adopted
+     the fountain of Trevi, with all its elaborate devices, for her own.
+     Finally the water, tumbling, sparkling, and dashing with joyous
+     haste and never ceasing murmur, pours itself into a great marble
+     basin and reservoir, and fills it with a quivering tide; on which
+     is seen, continually, a snowy semi-circle of momentary foam from
+     the principal cascade, as well as a multitude of snow-points from
+     smaller jets. The basin, occupies the whole breadth of the piazza,
+     whence flights of steps descend to its border. A boat might float,
+     and make mimic voyages, on this artificial lake.
+
+     "In the daytime there is hardly a livelier scene in Rome than the
+     neighbourhood of the fountain of Trevi; for the piazza is then
+     filled with stalls of vegetable and fruit dealers,
+     chestnut-roasters, cigar-vendors, and other people whose petty and
+     wandering traffic is transacted in the open air. It is likewise
+     thronged with idlers, lounging over the iron railing, and with
+     _forestieri_, who come hither to see the famous fountain. Here,
+     also, are men with buckets, urchins with cans, and maidens (a
+     picture as old as the patriarchal times) bearing their pitchers
+     upon their heads. For the water of Trevi is in request, far and
+     wide, as the most refreshing draught for feverish lips, the
+     pleasantest to mingle with wine, and the wholesomest to drink in
+     its native purity, that can anywhere be found. But, at midnight,
+     the piazza is a solitude; and it is a delight to behold this
+     untameable water, sporting by itself in the moonshine, and
+     compelling all the elaborate trivialities of art to assume a
+     natural aspect, in accordance with its own powerful simplicity.
+     Tradition goes, that a parting draught at the fountain of Trevi
+     ensures a traveller's return to Rome, whatever obstacles and
+     improbabilities may seem to beset him."--_Hawthorne's
+     Transformation_.
+
+     "Le bas-relief, placé au-dessus de cette fontaine, représente la
+     jeune fille indiquant la source précieuse, comme dans l'antiquité
+     une peinture représentait le même évènement dans une chapelle
+     construite au lieu où il s'était passé."--_Ampère, Emp._ i. 264.
+
+In this piazza is the rather handsome front of _Sta. Maria in Trivia_,
+formerly Sta. Maria in Fornica, erected by Cardinal Mazarin, on the site
+of an older church built by Belisarius--as is told by an inscription:--
+
+    "Hanc vir patricius Belisarius urbis amicus
+      Ob culpæ veniam condidit ecclesiam.
+    Hanc, idcirco, pedem qui sacram ponis in ædem
+      Ut miseretur eum sæpe precare Deum."
+
+The fault which Belisarius wished to expiate, was the exile of Pope
+Sylverius (A.D. 536), who was starved to death in the island of Ponza.
+The crypt of the present building, being the parish church of the
+Quirinal, contains the entrails of twenty popes (removed for
+embalmment)--from Sixtus V. to Pius VIII.--who died in the Quirinal
+Palace!
+
+The little church near the opposite corner of the piazza is that of _The
+Crociferi_, and is still (1870) served by the Venerable Don Giovanni
+Merlini, Father General of the Order of the Precious Blood, and the
+personal friend of its founder, Gaspare del Buffalo.
+
+The Fountain of Trevi occupies one end of the gigantic _Palazzo Poli_,
+which contains the English consulate. At the other end is the shop of
+the famous jeweller, Castellani, well worth visiting, for the sake of
+its beautiful collection of Etruscan designs, both in jewellery and in
+larger works of art.
+
+     "Castellani est l'homme qui a ressuscité la bijouterie romaine. Son
+     escalier, tapissé d'inscriptions et de bas-reliefs antiques, fait
+     croire que nous entrons dans un musée. Un jeune marchand aussi
+     érudit que les archéologues fait voir une collection de bijoux
+     anciens de toutes les époques, depuis les origines de l'Etrurie
+     jusqu'au siècle de Constantin. C'est la source où Castellani puise
+     les éléments d'un art nouveau qui détrônera avant dix ans la
+     pacotille du Palais-Royal."--_About_, _Rome Contemporaine_.
+
+     "C'est en s'inspirant des parures retrouvées dans les tombes de
+     l'Etrurie, des bracelets et des colliers dont se paraient les
+     femmes étrusques et sabines, que M. Castellani, guidé par le goût
+     savant et ingénieux d'un homme qui porte dignement l'ancien nom de
+     Caetani, a introduit dans la bijouterie un style à la fois
+     classique et nouveau. Parmi les artistes les plus originaux de Rome
+     sont certainement les orfèvres Castellani et D. Miguele Caetani,
+     duc de Sermoneta."--_Ampère_, _Hist. Rom._ i. 388.
+
+The _Palazzo Sciarra_ (on left of the Corso), built in 1603 by Labacco,
+contains a gallery of pictures. Its six celebrated gems are marked with
+an asterisk. We may notice:--
+
+    _1st Room._--
+
+     5. Death of St. John Baptist: _Valentin_.
+    13. Holy Family: _Innocenza da Imola_.
+    15. Rome Triumphant: _Valentin_.
+    20. Madonna: _Titian_.
+    23. Sta. Francesca Romana: _Carlo Veneziano_.
+
+    _2nd Room._--
+
+    17. Flight into Egypt: _Claude Lorrain_.
+    18. Sunset: _Claude Lorrain_.
+
+    _3rd Room._--
+
+     6. Holy Family: _Francia_.
+     9. Boar Hunt: _Garofalo_.
+    11. Holy Family: _Andrea del Sarto_.
+    17. A Monk led by an Angel to the Heavenly Spheres: _Gaudenzio
+          Ferrari_.
+    26. The Vestal Claudia drawing a boat with the statue of Ceres up
+          the Tiber: _Garofalo_.
+    29. Tavern Scene: _Teniers_.
+    33. The Fornarina: _Copy of Raphael by Giulio Romano_.
+    36. Holy Family with Angels: _Lucas Cranach_, 1504.
+
+    _4th Room._--
+
+    1. Holy Family: _Fra Bartolomeo_.*
+
+     "The glow and freshness of colouring in this admirable painting,
+     the softness of the skin, the beauty and sweetness of the
+     expression, the look with which the mother's eyes are bent upon
+     the baby she holds in her arms, and the innocent fondness with
+     which the other child gazes up in her face, are worthy of the
+     painter whose works Raphael delighted to study, and from which, in
+     a great measure, he formed his principles of colouring."--_Eaton's
+     Rome_.
+
+    5. St. John the Evangelist: _Guercino_.
+    6. The Violin Player (Andrea Marone?): _Raphael_.*
+
+     "The Violin Player is a youth holding the bow of a violin and a
+     laurel wreath in his hand, and looking at the spectators over his
+     shoulder. The expression of his countenance is sensible and
+     decided, and betokens a character alive to the impressions of
+     sense, yet severe. The execution is excellent,--inscribed with the
+     date 1518."--_Kugler._
+
+     7. St. Mark: _Guercino_.
+     8. Daughter of Herodias: _Guercino_.
+    12. Conjugal Love: _Agostino Caracci_.
+    16. The Gamblers: _Caravaggio_.*
+
+     "This is a masterpiece of the painter. A sharper is playing at
+     cards with a youth of family and fortune, whom his confederate,
+     while pretending to be looking on, is assisting to cheat. The
+     subject will remind you of the Flemish School, but this painting
+     bears no resemblance to it. Here is no farce, no caricature.
+     Character was never more strongly marked, nor a tale more
+     inimitably told. It is life itself, and you almost forget it is a
+     picture, and expect to see the game go on. The colouring is beyond
+     all praise."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+    17. Modesty and Vanity: _Leonardo da Vinci_.*
+
+     "One of Leonardo's most beautiful pictures is in Rome, in the
+     Sciarra Palace--two female half-figures of Modesty and Vanity. The
+     former, with a veil over her head, is a particularly pleasing,
+     noble profile, with a clear, open expression; she beckons to her
+     sister, who stands fronting the spectator, beautifully arrayed, and
+     with a sweet seducing smile. This picture is remarkably powerful in
+     colouring, and wonderfully finished, but unfortunately has become
+     rather dark in the shadows."--_Kugler._
+
+    19. Magdalen: _Guido Reni_.
+    24. Family Portrait: _Titian_.
+    25. Portrait: _Bronzino_.
+    26. St. Sebastian: _Perugino_.
+    29. Bella Donna: _Titian_.*
+
+     Sometimes supposed to represent Donna Laura Eustachio, the peasant
+     Duchess of Alphonso I. of Ferrara.
+
+     "When Titian or Tintoret look at a human being, they see at a
+     glance the whole of its nature, outside and in; all that it has of
+     form, of colour, of passion, or of thought; saintliness and
+     loveliness; fleshly power, and spiritual power; grace, or strength,
+     or softness, or whatsoever other quality, those men will see to the
+     full, and so paint, that, when narrower people come to look at what
+     they have done, every one may, if he chooses, find his own special
+     pleasure in the work. The sensualist will find sensuality in
+     Titian; the thinker will find thought; the saint, sanctity; the
+     colourist, colour; the anatomist, form; and yet the picture will
+     never be a popular one in the full sense, for none of these
+     narrower people will find their special taste so alone consulted,
+     as that the qualities which would ensure their gratification shall
+     be sifted or separated from others; they are checked by the
+     presence of the other qualities, which ensure the gratification of
+     other men.... Only there is a strange undercurrent of everlasting
+     murmur about the name of Titian, which means the deep consent of
+     all great men that he is greater than they."--_Ruskin's Two Paths,
+     Lect. 2._
+
+    31. Death of the Virgin: _Albert Durer_.
+    32. Maddalena della Radice: _Guido Reni_.*
+
+     "The two Magdalens by Guido are almost duplicates, and yet one is
+     incomparably superior to the other. She is reclining on a rock, and
+     her tearful and uplifted eyes, the whole of her countenance and
+     attitude, speak the overwhelming sorrow that penetrates her soul.
+     Her face might charm the heart of a stoic; and the contrast of her
+     youth and enchanting loveliness, with the abandonment of grief, the
+     resignation of all earthly hope, and the entire devotion of herself
+     to penitence and heaven, is most affecting."--_Eaton's Rome._[11]
+
+Near the Piazza Sciarra, the Corso (as Via Flaminia) was formerly
+spanned by the Arch of Claudius, removed in 1527. Some reliefs from this
+arch are preserved in the portico of the Villa Borghese, and though much
+mutilated are of fine workmanship. The inscription, which commemorated
+the erection of the arch in honour of the conquest of Britain, is
+preserved in the courtyard of the Barberini Palace.
+
+On the right of the Piazza Sciarra is the Via della Caravita, containing
+the small but popular _Church of the Caravita_,[12] used for the
+peculiar religious exercises of the Jesuits, especially for their
+terrible Lenten "flagellation" services, which are one of the most
+extraordinary sights afforded by Catholic Rome.
+
+     "The ceremony of pious whippings, one of the penances of the
+     convents, still takes place at the time of vespers in the oratory
+     of the Padre Caravita and in another church in Rome. It is preceded
+     by a short exhortation, during which a bell rings, and whips, that
+     is, strings of knotted whipcord, are distributed quietly amongst
+     such of the audience as are on their knees in the nave. On a second
+     bell, the candles are extinguished--a loud voice issues from the
+     altar, which pours forth an exhortation to think of unconfessed, or
+     unrepented, or unforgiven crimes. This continues a sufficient time
+     to allow the kneelers to strip off their upper garments; the tone
+     of the preacher is raised more loudly at each word, and he
+     vehemently exhorts his hearers to recollect that Christ and the
+     martyrs suffered much more than whipping. 'Show, then, your
+     penitence--show your sense of Christ's sacrifice--show it with the
+     whip.' The flagellation begins. The darkness, the tumultuous sound
+     of blows in every direction--'Blessed Virgin Mary, pray for us!'
+     bursting out at intervals,--the persuasion that you are surrounded
+     by atrocious culprits and maniacs, who know of an absolution for
+     every crime--so far from exciting a smile, fixes you to the spot in
+     a trance of restless horror, prolonged beyond bearing. The
+     scourging continues ten or fifteen minutes."--_Lord Broughton._
+
+     "Each man on entering the church was supplied with a scourge. After
+     a short interval the doors were barred, the lights extinguished;
+     and from praying, the congregation proceeded to groaning, crying,
+     and finally, being worked up into a kind of ecstatic fury, applied
+     the scourge to their uncovered shoulders without
+     mercy."--_Whiteside's Italy in the Nineteenth Century._
+
+Beyond the Caravita is the _Church of S. Ignazio_, built by Cardinal
+Ludovisi. The façade, of 1685, is by Algardi. It contains the tomb of
+Gregory XIV. (Nicolo Sfondrati, 1590--91), and that of S. Ludovico
+Gonzaga, both sculptured by _Le Gros_.
+
+     "In S. Ignazio is the chapel of San Luigi Gonzaga, on whom not a
+     few of the young Roman damsels look with something of the same kind
+     of admiration as did Clytie on Apollo, whom he and St. Sebastian,
+     those two young, beautiful, graceful saints, very fairly represent
+     in Christian mythology. His festa falls in June, and then his altar
+     is embosomed in flowers, arranged with exquisite taste; and a pile
+     of letters may be seen at its foot, written to the saint by young
+     men and maidens, and directed to Paradiso. They are supposed to be
+     burnt unread, except by San Luigi, who must find singular petitions
+     in these pretty little missives, tied up now with a green ribbon,
+     expressive of hope, now with a red one, emblematic of love, or
+     whatever other significant colour the writer may
+     prefer."--_Mademoiselle Mori._
+
+The frescoes on the roof and tribune are by the Padre Pozzi.
+
+     "Amid the many distinguished men whom the Jesuits sent forth to
+     every region of the world, I cannot recollect the name of a single
+     artist unless it be the Father Pozzi, renowned for his skill in
+     perspective, and who used his skill less as an artist than a
+     conjuror, to produce such illusions as make the vulgar stare; to
+     make the impalpable to the grasp appear as palpable to the vision;
+     the near seem distant, the distant near; the unreal, real; to cheat
+     the eye; to dazzle the sense;--all this has Father Pozzi most
+     cunningly achieved in the Gesù and the Sant' Ignazio at Rome; but
+     nothing more, and nothing better than this. I wearied of his
+     altar-pieces and of his wonderful roofs which pretend to be no
+     roofs at all. Scheme, tricks, and deceptions in art should all be
+     kept for the theatre. It appeared to me nothing less than profane
+     to introduce _shams_ into the temples of God."--_Mrs. Jameson._
+
+On the left of the Corso--opposite the handsome Palazzo Simonetti--is
+the _Church of S. Marcello_ (Pope, 308--10), containing some interesting
+modern monuments. Among them are those of Pierre Gilles, the traveller
+(ob. 1555), and of the English Cardinal Weld. Here, also, Cardinal
+Gonsalvi, the famous and liberal minister of Pius VII., is buried in
+the same tomb with his beloved younger brother, the Marchese Andrea
+Gonsalvi. Their monument, by Rinaldi, tells that here repose the bodies
+of two brothers--
+
+    "Qui cum singulari amore dum vivebant
+          Se mutuo dilexissent
+            Corpora etiam sua
+    Una eademque urna condi voluere."
+
+
+Here are the masterpieces which made the reputation of Pierino del Vaga
+(1501--1547). In the chapel of the Virgin are the cherubs, whose
+graceful movements and exquisite flesh-tints Vasari declares to have
+been unsurpassed by any artist in fresco. In the chapel of the Crucifix
+is the Creation of Eve, which is even more beautiful.
+
+     "The perfectly beautiful figure of the naked Adam is seen lying,
+     overpowered by sleep, while Eve, filled with life, and with folded
+     hands, rises to receive the blessing of her Maker,--a most grand
+     and solemn figure standing erect in heavy drapery."--_Vasari_, iv.
+
+This church is said to occupy the site of a house of the Christian
+matron Lucina, in which Marcellus died of wounds incurred in attempting
+to settle a quarrel among his Christian followers. It was in front of it
+that the body of the tribune Rienzi, after his murder on the Capitol
+steps, was hung up by the feet for two days as a mark for the rabble to
+throw stones at.
+
+The next street to the right leads to the _Collegio Romano_, founded by
+St. Francis Borgia, Duke of Gandia (a descendant of Pope Alexander VI.),
+who, after a youth spent amid the splendours of the court of Madrid,
+retired to Rome in 1550, in the time of Julius III., and became the
+successor of Ignatius Loyola as general of the Jesuits. The buildings
+were erected, as we now see them, by Ammanati, in 1582, for Gregory
+XIII. The college is entirely under the superintendence of the Jesuits.
+The library is large and valuable. The _Kircherian Museum_ (shown to
+gentlemen from ten to eleven on Sundays) is worth visiting. It contains
+a number of antiquities, illustrative of Roman and Etruscan customs, and
+many beautiful ancient bronzes and vases. The most important object is
+the "Cista Mistica," a bronze vase and cover, which was given as a prize
+to successful gladiators, and which was originally fitted up with
+everything useful for their profession.
+
+The _Observatory_ of the Collegio Romano has obtained a European
+reputation from the important astronomical researches of its director,
+the Padre Secchi.
+
+The Collegio Romano has produced eight popes--Urban VIII., Innocent X.,
+Clement IX., Clement X., Innocent XII., Clement XI., Innocent XIII., and
+Clement XII. Among its other pupils have been S. Camillo de Lellis, the
+Blessed Leonardo di Porto-Maurizio, the Venerable Pietro Berna, and
+others.
+
+     "Ignace, François Borgia, ont passé par ici. Leur souvenir plane,
+     comme un encouragement et une bénédiction, sur ces salles où ils
+     présidèrent aux études, sur ces chaires où peut-être retentit leur
+     parole, sur ces modestes cellules qu'ils ont habitées. A la fin du
+     seizième siècle, les élèves du collége Romain perdirent un de leurs
+     condisciples que sa douce aménité et ses vertus angéliques avaient
+     rendu l'objet d'un affectueux respect. Ce jeune homme avait été
+     page de Philippe II.; il était allié aux maisons royales
+     d'Autriche, de Bourbon et de Lorraine. Mais au milieu de ces
+     illusions d'une grande vie, sous ce brillant costume de cour qui
+     semblait lui promettre honneurs et fortune, il ne voyait jamais que
+     la pieuse figure de sa mère agenouillée au pied des autels, et
+     priant pour lui. A peine âgé de seize ans, il s'échappe de Madrid,
+     il vient frapper à la porte du collége Romain, et demande place, au
+     dortoir et à l'étude, pour Louis Gonzague, fils du comte de
+     Castiglione. Pendant sept ans, Louis donna dans cette maison le
+     touchant exemple d'une vie céleste; puis ses jours _déclinèrent_,
+     comme parle l'Ecriture; il avait assez vécu."--_Gournerie_, _Rome
+     Chrétienne_, ii. 211.
+
+We now reach (on right) the _Church of Sta. Maria in Via Lata_, which
+was founded by Sergius I., in the eighth century, but twice rebuilt, the
+second time under Alexander VII., in 1662, when the façade was added by
+Pietro da Cortona.
+
+     In this church "they still show a little chapel in which, as hath
+     been handed down from the first ages, St. Luke the Evangelist
+     wrote, and painted the effigy of the Virgin Mother of God."--_See
+     Jameson's Sacred Art_, p. 155.
+
+The subterranean church is shown as the actual house in which St. Paul
+lodged when he was in Rome.
+
+     "And when we came to Rome, the centurion delivered the prisoners to
+     the captain of the guard: but Paul was suffered to dwell by himself
+     with a soldier that kept him."
+
+     "And when they had appointed him a day, there came many to him into
+     his lodging; to whom he expounded and testified the kingdom of God,
+     persuading them concerning Jesus, both out of the law of Moses, and
+     out of the prophets, from morning till evening." ...
+
+     "And Paul dwelt two whole years in his own hired house, and
+     received all that came in unto him, preaching the kingdom of God,
+     and teaching those things which concern the Lord Jesus Christ, with
+     all confidence, no man forbidding him."--_Acts_ xxviii. 16, 23, 30,
+     31.
+
+     "St. Paul after his arrival at Rome, having made his usual effort,
+     in the first place, for the salvation of his own countrymen, and as
+     usual, having found it vain, turned to the Gentiles, and during two
+     whole years, in which he was a prisoner, received all that came to
+     him, preaching the kingdom of God. It was thus that God overruled
+     his imprisonment for the furtherance of the gospel, so that his
+     bonds in Christ were manifest in the palace, and in all other
+     places, and many of the brethren in the Lord, waxing confident by
+     his bonds, were much more bold to speak the word without fear. Even
+     in the palace of Nero, the most noxious atmosphere, as we should
+     have concluded, for the growth of divine truth, his bonds were
+     manifest, the Lord Jesus was preached, and, more than this, was
+     received to the saving of many souls; for we find the Apostle
+     writing to his Philippian converts: 'All the saints salute you,
+     chiefly they which are of Cæsar's household.' The whole Church of
+     Christ has abundant reason to bless God for the dispensation which,
+     during the most matured period of St. Paul's Christian life,
+     detained him a close prisoner in the imperial city. Had he, to the
+     end of his course, been at large, occupied, as he had long been,
+     'in labours most abundant,' he would, humanly speaking, never have
+     found time to pen those epistles which are among the most blessed
+     portion of the Church's inheritance. It was from within the walls
+     of a prison, probably chained hand to hand to the soldier who kept
+     him, that St. Paul indited the Epistles to the Ephesians,
+     Philippians, Colossians, and Hebrews."--_Blunt's Lectures on St.
+     Paul._
+
+     "In writing to Philemon, Paul chooses to speak of himself as the
+     captive of Jesus Christ. Yet he went whither he would, and was free
+     to receive those who came to him. It is interesting to remember
+     amid these solemn vaults, the different events of St. Paul's
+     apostolate, during the two years that he lived here. It was here
+     that he converted Onesimus, that he received the presents of the
+     Philippians, brought by Epaphroditus; it was hence that he wrote to
+     Philemon, to Titus, to the inhabitants of Philippi and of Colosse;
+     it was here that he preached devotion to the cross with that
+     glowing eagerness, with that startling eloquence, which gained
+     fresh power from contest and which inspiration rendered sublime.
+
+     "Peter addressed himself to the Circumcised; Paul to the
+     Gentiles,[13]--to their silence that he might confound it, to their
+     reason that he might humble it. Had he not already converted the
+     proconsul Sergius Paulus and Dionysius the Areopagite? At Rome his
+     word is equally powerful, and among the courtiers of Nero, perhaps
+     even amongst his relations, are those who yield to the power of
+     God, who reveals himself in each of the teachings of his
+     servant.[14] Around the Apostle his eager disciples group
+     themselves--Onesiphorus of Ephesus, who was not ashamed of his
+     chain;[15] Epaphras of Colosse, who was captive with him,
+     _concaptivus meus_;[16] Timothy, who was one with his master in a
+     holy union of every thought, and who was attached to him like a
+     son, _sicut patri filius_;[17] Hermas, Aristarchus, Marcus,
+     Demas--and Luke the physician, the faithful companion of the
+     Apostle, his well-beloved disciple--'Lucas medicus
+     carissimus.'"--_From Gournerie, Rome Chrétienne._
+
+     "I honour Rome for this reason; for though I could celebrate her
+     praises on many other accounts--for her greatness, for her beauty,
+     for her power, for her wealth, and for her warlike exploits,--yet,
+     passing over all these things, I glorify her on this account, that
+     Paul in his lifetime wrote to the Romans, and loved them, and was
+     present with and conversed with them, and ended his life amongst
+     them. Wherefore the city is on this account renowned more than on
+     all others--on this account I admire her, not on account of her
+     gold, her columns, or her other splendid decorations."--_St. John
+     Chrysostom, Homily on the Ep. to the Romans._
+
+     "The Roman Jews expressed a wish to hear from St. Paul himself a
+     statement of his religious sentiments, adding that the Christian
+     sect was everywhere spoken against.... A day was fixed for the
+     meeting at his private lodging.
+
+     "The Jews came in great numbers at the appointed time. Then
+     followed an impressive scene, like that at Troas (Acts xxi.)--the
+     Apostle pleading long and earnestly,--bearing testimony concerning
+     the kingdom of God,--and endeavouring to persuade them by arguments
+     drawn from their own Scriptures,--'from morning till evening.' The
+     result was a division among the auditors--'not peace, but a
+     sword,'--the division which has resulted ever since, when the Truth
+     of God has encountered, side by side, earnest conviction with
+     worldly indifference, honest investigation with bigoted prejudice,
+     trustful faith with the pride of scepticism. After a long and
+     stormy discussion, the unbelieving portion departed; but not until
+     St. Paul had warned them, in one last address, that they were
+     bringing upon themselves that awful doom of judicial blindness,
+     which was denounced in their own Scriptures against obstinate
+     unbelievers; that the salvation which they rejected would be
+     withdrawn from them, and the inheritance they renounced would be
+     given to the Gentiles. The sentence with which he gave emphasis to
+     this solemn warning was that passage in Isaiah, which recurring
+     thus with solemn force at the very close of the Apostolic history,
+     seems to bring very strikingly together the Old Dispensation and
+     the New, and to connect the ministry of Our Lord with that of His
+     Apostles:--'Go unto this people and say: Hearing ye shall hear and
+     shall not understand, and seeing ye shall see and shall not
+     perceive: for the heart of this people is waxed gross, and their
+     ears are dull of hearing, and their eyes have they closed; lest
+     they should see with their eyes, and hear with their ears, and
+     understand with their heart, and should be converted, and I should
+     heal them.'
+
+     " ... During the long delay of his trial St. Paul was not reduced,
+     as he had been at Cæsarea, to a forced inactivity. On the contrary,
+     he was permitted the freest intercourse with his friends, and was
+     allowed to reside in a house of sufficient size to accommodate the
+     congregation which flocked together to listen to his teaching. The
+     freest scope was given to his labours, consistent with the military
+     custody under which he was placed. We are told, in language
+     peculiarly emphatic, that his preaching was subjected to no
+     restraint whatever. And that which seemed at first to impede, must
+     really have deepened the impression of his eloquence; for who could
+     see without emotion that venerable form subjected by iron links to
+     the coarse control of the soldier who stood beside him? how often
+     must the tears of the assembly have been called forth by the
+     upraising of that fettered hand, and the clanking of the chain
+     which checked its energetic action.
+
+     "We shall see hereafter that these labours of the imprisoned
+     Confessor were not fruitless; in his own words, he 'begot many
+     children in his chains.' Meanwhile, he had a wider sphere of action
+     than even the metropolis of the world. Not only 'the crowd which
+     pressed upon him daily,' but also 'the care of all the churches'
+     demanded his constant vigilance and exertion.... To enable him to
+     maintain this superintendence, he manifestly needed many faithful
+     messengers; men who (as he says of one of them) 'rendered him
+     profitable service'; and by some of whom he seems to have been
+     constantly accompanied, wheresoever he went. Accordingly we find
+     him, during this Roman imprisonment, surrounded by many of his
+     oldest and most valued attendants. Luke, his fellow-traveller,
+     remained with him during his bondage; Timotheus, his beloved son in
+     the faith, ministered to him at Rome, as he had done in Asia, in
+     Macedonia, and in Achaia. Tychicus, who had formerly borne him
+     company from Corinth to Ephesus, is now at hand to carry his
+     letters to the shores which they had visited together. But there
+     are two names amongst his Roman companions which excite a peculiar
+     interest, though from opposite reasons,--the names of Demas and of
+     Mark. The latter, when last we heard of him, was the unhappy cause
+     of the separation of Barnabas and Paul. He was rejected by Paul, as
+     unworthy to attend him, because he had previously abandoned the
+     work of the Gospel out of timidity or indolence. It is delightful
+     to find him now ministering obediently to the very Apostle who had
+     then repudiated his services; still more to know that he
+     persevered in this fidelity even to the end, and was sent for by
+     St. Paul to cheer his dying hours. Demas, on the other hand, is now
+     a faithful 'fellow-labourer' of the Apostle but in a few years we
+     shall find that he had 'forsaken' him, having 'loved this present
+     world.'
+
+     "Amongst the rest of St. Paul's companions at this time, there were
+     two whom he distinguishes by the honourable title of his
+     'fellow-prisoners.' One of these is Aristarchus, the other
+     Epaphras. With regard to the former, we know that he was a
+     Macedonian of Thessalonica, one of 'Paul's companions in travel,'
+     whose life was endangered by the mob at Ephesus, and who embarked
+     with St. Paul at Cæsarea when he set sail for Rome. The other,
+     Epaphras, was a Colossian, who must not be identified with the
+     Philippian Epaphroditus, another of St. Paul's fellow-labourers
+     during this time. It is not easy to say in what exact sense these
+     two disciples were peculiarly _fellow-prisoners_ of St. Paul.
+     Perhaps it only implies that they dwelt in his house, which was
+     also his prison.
+
+     "But of all the disciples now ministering to St. Paul at Rome, none
+     has a greater interest than the fugitive Asiatic slave Onesimus. He
+     belonged to a Christian named Philemon, a member of the Colossian
+     Church. But he had robbed his master, and fled from Colosse, and at
+     last found his way to Rome. Here he was converted to the faith of
+     Christ, and had confessed to St. Paul his sins against his
+     master."--_Conybeare and Howson, Life of St. Paul._
+
+A fountain in the crypt is shown, as having miraculously sprung up in
+answer to the prayers of St. Paul, that he might have wherewithal to
+baptize his disciples. At the end of the crypt are some large blocks of
+peperino, said to be remains of the arch erected by the senate in honour
+of the Emperor Gordian III., and destroyed by Innocent VIII.
+
+Far along the right side of the Corso now extends the façade of the
+immense _Palazzo Doria_, built by Valvasori (the front towards the
+Collegio Romano being by Pietro da Cortona, and that towards the Piazza
+Venezia by Amati). Entering the courtyard, one must turn left to reach
+the _Picture Gallery_ (which is open on Tuesdays and Fridays, from ten
+till two)--a vast collection, which contains some grand portraits and a
+few other fine paintings.
+
+The _1st Room_ entered is a great hall--to which pictures are removed
+for copying. It contains four fine sarcophagi, with reliefs of the Hunt
+of Meleager, the Story of Marsyas, Endymion and Diana, and a Bacchic
+procession. Of two ancient circular altars, one serves as the pedestal
+of a bearded Dionysus. The pictures are chiefly landscapes, of the
+school of Poussin and Salvator Rosa,--that of the Deluge is by _Ippolito
+Scarsellino_.
+
+_2nd Room._--In the centre a Centaur (restored), of basalt and
+rosso-antico. On either side groups of boys playing.
+
+     _Pictures:_--
+
+     4. Caritas Romana: _Valentin_.
+
+     5. Circumcision: _Giov. Bellini?_
+
+     7. Madonna and Saints: _Basaiti_.
+
+     15. Temptations of St. Anthony: _Scuola di Mantegna_.
+
+     19. St. John in the Desert: _Guercino?_
+
+     35. Birth of St. John: _Vittore Pisanello_.
+
+     21. Spozalizio: _V. Pisanello_.
+
+     23. St. Sylvester before Maximin II.: _Pesellino_.
+
+     24. Madonna and Child: _F. Francia?_
+
+     28. Annunciation: _Fil. Lippi_.
+
+     29. St. Sylvester and the Dragon: _Pesellino_ (see the account of
+     Sta. Maria Liberatrice).
+
+     33. St. Agnes on the burning pile: _Guercino_.
+
+     37. Magdalen: _Copy of the Titian in the Pitti Palace_.
+
+_4th Room._--
+
+     A bust of Innocent X. (with whose ill-acquired wealth this palace
+     was built) in rosso-antico, with a bronze head: _Bernini_.
+
+_5th Room._--
+
+     17. The Money-changers: _Quentin Matsys_.
+
+     25. St. Joseph: _Guercino_. In the centre, a group of Jacob
+     wrestling with the Angel: _School of Bernini_.
+
+_6th Room._--
+
+     8. Portrait of Olympia Maldacchini, the sister-in-law of Innocent
+     X., who ruled Rome in his time.
+
+     13. Madonna: _Carlo Maratta_.
+
+     30. Sketch of a Boy: _Incognito_.
+
+From this room we enter a small cabinet, hung with pictures of
+_Breughel_ and _Fiammingo_, and containing a bust by _Algardi_, of
+Olympia Maldacchini-Pamfili, who built the Villa Doria Pamfili for her
+son.
+
+_7th Room._--
+
+     8. Belisarius in the desert: _Salvator Rosa_.
+
+     19. Slaughter of the Innocents: _Mazzolino_.
+
+We now enter the Galleries--which begin towards the left--
+
+_1st Gallery._--
+
+     2. Holy Family in glory, and two Franciscan Saints adoring:
+     _Garofalo_.
+
+     3. Magdalen: _Annibale Caracci_.
+
+     8. Two Heads: _Quentin Matsys_.
+
+     9. Holy Family: _Sassoferrato_.
+
+     10. Story of the conversion of S. Eustachio (see the description of
+     his church): _School of Albert Durer_.
+
+     14. A Portrait: _Titian_.
+
+     15. Holy Family: _Andrea del Sarto_.
+
+     20. The Three Ages of Man: _Titian_.*
+
+     21. Return of the Prodigal Son: _Guercino_.
+
+     25. Landscape with the Flight into Egypt: _Claude Lorraine_.
+
+     26. The meeting of Mary and Elizabeth: _Garofalo_.
+
+     38. Copy of the "Nozze Aldobrandini:" _Poussin_.
+
+     45. Madonna: _Guido Reni_.
+
+     50. Holy Family: _Giulio Romano, from Raphael_.
+
+_2nd Gallery._--
+
+     6. Madonna: _Fran. Francia_.
+
+     14. "Bartolo and Baldo:" _Raphael_.*
+
+     17. Portrait: _Titian_.
+
+     21. Portrait of a Widow: _Vandyke_.
+
+     24. Three Heads, called Calvin, Luther, and Catherine: _Giorgione_.
+
+     26. Sacrifice of Isaac: _Titian_.
+
+     33. Portrait of a Pamfili: _Vandyke_.
+
+     40. Herodias with the Head of John the Baptist: _Pordenone_. A
+     grand bust of Andrew Doria.
+
+     50. "The Confessor:" _Rubens_.
+
+     53. Joanna of Arragon: _School of Leonardo da Vinci_.*
+
+     56. Magdalene: _School of Titian_.
+
+     61. Adoration of the Infant Jesus: _Gio. Batt. Benvenuti_
+     ('_l'Ortolano_').
+
+     66. Holy Family: _Garofalo_.
+
+     69. Glory crowning Virtue (a sketch): _Correggio_.
+
+     80. Portrait of Titian and his Wife: _Titian_. Also a number of
+     pictures of the Creation: _Breughel_.
+
+_3rd Gallery._--
+
+     1, 6, 28, 34. Landscapes (with figures introduced): _Ann. Caracci_.
+
+     5. Landscape, with Mercury stealing cattle: _Claude Lorraine_.
+
+     10. Titian's Wife: _Titian_.
+
+     11. "Niccolaus Macchiavellus Historiar. Scriptor:" _Bronzino_.
+
+     12. "The Mill:" _Claude Lorraine_.*
+
+     "The foreground of the picture of 'the Mill' is a piece of very
+     lovely and perfect forest scenery, with a dance of peasants by a
+     brook-side; quite enough subject to form, in the hands of a master,
+     an impressive and complete picture. On the other side of the brook,
+     however, we have a piece of pastoral life; a man with some bulls
+     and goats tumbling head foremost into the water, owing to some
+     sudden paralytic affection of all their legs. Even this group is
+     one too many; the shepherd had no business to drive his flock so
+     near the dancers, and the dancers will certainly frighten the
+     cattle. But when we look farther into the picture, our feelings
+     receive a sudden and violent shock, by the unexpected appearance,
+     amidst things pastoral and musical, of the military; a number of
+     Roman soldiers riding in on hobby-horses, with a leader on foot,
+     apparently encouraging them to make an immediate and decisive
+     charge on the musicians. Beyond the soldiers is a circular temple,
+     in exceedingly bad repair; and close beside it, built against its
+     very walls, a neat water-mill in full work; by the mill flows a
+     large river with a weir across it.... At an inconvenient distance
+     from the water-side stands a city, composed of twenty-five round
+     towers and a pyramid. Beyond the city is a handsome bridge; beyond
+     the bridge, part of the Campagna, with fragments of aqueducts;
+     beyond the Campagna the chain of the Alps; on the left, the
+     cascades of Tivoli.
+
+     "This is a fair example of what is commonly called an 'ideal'
+     landscape; _i.e._ a group of the artist's studies from nature,
+     individually spoiled, selected with such opposition of character as
+     may insure their neutralizing each other's effect, and united with
+     sufficient unnaturalness and violence of association to insure
+     their producing a general sensation of the impossible."--_Ruskin's
+     Modern Painters._
+
+     "Many painters take a particular spot, and sketch it to perfection;
+     but Claude was convinced that taking nature as he found it, seldom
+     produced beauty. Neither did he like exhibiting in his pictures
+     accidents of nature. He professed to pourtray the style of general
+     nature, and so his pictures were a composition of the various
+     draughts which he had previously made from beautiful scenes and
+     prospects."--_Sir J. Reynolds._
+
+     18. Pietà: _Ann. Caracci_.
+
+     23. Landscape, with the Temple of Apollo: _Claude Lorraine_.
+
+     26. Portrait: _Mazzolino_.
+
+     27. Portrait: _Giorgione_.
+
+     33. Landscape, with Diana hunting: _Claude Lorraine_.
+
+At the end of this gallery is a small cabinet, containing the gems of
+the collection:--
+
+     1. Portrait of a "Letterato:" _Lucas V. Leyden?_*
+
+     2. Portrait of Andrea Doria: _Sebastian del Piombo_.*
+
+     3. Portrait of Giannetto Doria: _Bronzino_.*
+
+     4. Portrait of S. Filippo Neri, as a boy: _Barocci_.
+
+     5. Portrait of Innocent X.; Gio. Battista Pamfili (1644--55):
+     _Velasquez_.*
+
+     6. Entombment: _John Emelingk_.*
+
+Here, also, is the bust of the late beloved Princess Doria (Lady Mary
+Talbot), which has always been veiled in crape since her death.
+
+The _4th Gallery_ is decorated with mirrors, and with statues of no
+especial merit.
+
+     "In the whole immense range of rooms of the Palazzo Doria, I saw
+     but a single fire-place, and that so deep in the wall that no
+     amount of blaze would raise the atmosphere of the room ten degrees.
+     If the builder of the palace, or any of his successors, have
+     committed crimes worthy of Tophet, it would be a still worse
+     punishment to him to wander perpetually through this suite of
+     rooms, on the cold floors of polished brick tiles, or marble, or
+     mosaic, growing a little chiller and chiller through every moment
+     of eternity--or at least, till the palace crumbles down upon
+     him."--_Hawthorne, Notes on Italy._
+
+Opposite the Palazzo Doria is the _Palazzo Salviati_. The next two
+streets on the left lead into the long narrow square called _Piazza
+Santi Apostoli_, containing several handsome palaces. That on the right
+is the _Palazzo Odescalchi_, built by Bernini, in 1660, for Cardinal
+Fabio Chigi, to whose family it formerly belonged. It has some fine
+painted and carved wooden ceilings. This palace is supposed to be the
+scene of the latest miracle of the Roman Catholic Church. The present
+Princess Odescalchi had long been bedridden, and was apparently dying of
+a hopeless disease, when, while her family were watching what they
+considered her last moments, the pope (Pius IX.) sent, by the hands of a
+nun, a little loaf (panetello), which he desired her to swallow. With
+terrible effort, the sick woman obeyed, and was immediately healed, and
+on the following day the astonished Romans saw her go in person to the
+pope, at the Vatican, to return thanks for her restoration!
+
+The building at the end of the square is the _Palazzo Valentini_, which
+once contained a collection of antiquities.
+
+Near this, on the left, but separated from the piazza by a courtyard, is
+the vast _Palazzo Colonna_, begun, in the fifteenth century, by Martin
+V., and continued at various later periods. Julius II. at one time made
+it his residence, and also Cardinal (afterwards San Carlo) Borromeo.
+Part of it is now the residence of the French ambassadors. The palace is
+built very near the site of the ancient fortress of the Colonna
+family--so celebrated in times of mediæval warfare with the Orsini--of
+which one lofty tower still remains, in a street leading up to the
+Quirinal.
+
+The _Gallery_ is shown every day, except Sundays and holidays, from 11
+to 3. It is entered by the left wing. The first room is a fine, gloomy
+old hall, containing the family dais, and hung with decaying Colonna
+portraits. Then come three rooms covered with tapestries, the last
+containing a pretty statue of a girl, sometimes called Niobe. Hence we
+reach the pictures. The _1st Room_ has an interesting collection of the
+early schools, including Madonnas of _Filippo Lippi_; _Luca Longhi_;
+_Botticelli_; _Gentile da Fabriano_; _Innocenza da Imola_; a curious
+Crucifixion, by _Jacopo d'Avanzo_; and a portrait by _Giovanni Sanzio_,
+father of Raphael.
+
+The ceiling of the _3rd Room_ has a fresco, by _Battoni_ and _Luti_, of
+the apotheosis of Martin V. (Oddone Colonna, 1417--24). Among its
+pictures, are St. Bernard, _Giovanni Bellini_; Onuphrius Pavinius,
+_Titian_; Holy Family, _Bronzino_; Peasant dining, _Annibale Caracci_;
+St. Jerome, _Spagna_; Portrait, _Paul Veronese_; Holy Family,
+_Bonifazio_.
+
+Hence we enter the _Great Hall_, a truly grand room, hung with mirrors
+and painted with flowers by _Mario de' Fiori_, and with genii by
+_Maratta_. The statues here are unimportant. The ceiling is adorned with
+paintings, by _Coli_ and _Gherardi_, of the battle of Lepanto, Oct. 8,
+1571, which Marc-Antonio Colonna assisted in gaining. The best pictures
+are the family portraits:--Federigo Colonna, _Sustermanns_; Don Carlo
+Colonna, _Vandyke_; Card. Pompeio Colonna, _Lorenzo Lotto_; Vittoria
+Colonna, _Muziano_; Lucrezia Colonna, _Vandyke_; Pompeio Colonna,
+_Agostino Caracci_; Giacomo Sciarra Colonna, _Giorgione_. We may also
+notice an extraordinary picture of the Madonna rescuing a child from a
+demon, by _Niccolo d'Alunno_, with a double portrait, by _Tintoret_, on
+the right wall, and a Holy Family of _Palma Vecchio_ at the end of the
+gallery. Near the entrance are some glorious old cabinets, inlaid with
+ivory and lapis-lazuli. On the steps leading to the upper end of the
+hall is a bomb left on the spot where it fell during the siege of Rome
+in 1848.
+
+(Through the palace access may be obtained to the beautiful Colonna
+Gardens; but as they are generally visited from the Quirinal, they will
+be noticed in the description of that hill.)
+
+     "On parle d'un Pierre Colonna, dépouillé de tous ses biens en 1100
+     par le pape Pascal II. Il fallait que la famille fût déjà
+     passablement ancienne, car les grandes fortunes ne s'élèvent pas en
+     un jour."--_About._
+
+     "Si n'etoit le différent des Ursins et des Colonnois (Orsini and
+     Colonna) la terre de l'Eglise seroit la plus heureuse habitation
+     pour les subjects, qui soit en tout le monde."--_Philippe de
+     Comines._ 1500.
+
+    "Gloriosa Colonna, in cui s' appoggia
+      Nostra speranza, e'l gran nome Latino,
+      Ch'ancor non torte del vero cammino
+    L'ira di Giove per ventosa pioggia."
+
+    _Petrarca, Sonnetto_ X.
+
+Adjoining the Palazzo Colonna is the fine _Church of the Santi
+Apostoli_, founded in the sixth century, rebuilt by Martin V., in 1420,
+and modernized, _c._ 1602, by Fontana. The portico contains a
+magnificent bas-relief of an eagle and an oak-wreath (frequently copied
+and introduced in architectural designs).
+
+     "Entrez sous la portique de l'église des Saints-Apôtres, et vous
+     trouverez là, encadré par hasard dans le mur, un aigle qu'entoure
+     une couronne d'un magnifique travail. Vous reconnaîtrez facilement
+     dans cet aigle et cette couronne la représentation d'une ensigne
+     romaine, telle que les bas-reliefs de la colonne Trajane vous en
+     ont montré plusieurs; seulement ce qui était là en petit est ici en
+     grand."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 168.
+
+Also in the portico, is a monument, by _Canova_, to Volpato, the
+engraver. Over the sacristy door is the tomb of Pope Clement XIV. (Giov.
+Antonio Ganganelli, 1769-74), also by Canova, executed in his
+twenty-fifth year.
+
+     "La mort de Clément XIV. est du 22 Septembre, 1774. A cette époque,
+     Alphonse de Liguori était évêque de Sainte-Agathe des Goths, au
+     royaume de Naples. Le 22 Septembre, au matin, l'évêque tomba dans
+     une espèce de sommeil léthargique après avoir dit la messe, et,
+     pendant vingt-quatre heures, il demeura sans mouvement dans son
+     fauteuil. Ses serviteurs s'étonnant de cet état, le lendemain, avec
+     lui:--'Vous ne savez pas, leur dit-il, que j'ai assisté le pape qui
+     vient de mourir.' Peu après, la nouvelle du décès de Clément arriva
+     à Sainte Agathe."--_Gournerie, Rome Chrétienne_, ii. 362.
+
+In 1873 the traditional grave of St. Philip and St. James, the
+"Apostoli" to whom this church is dedicated, was opened during its
+restoration. Two bodies were found, enclosed in a sarcophagus of
+beautiful transparent marble, and have been duly enshrined. In the choir
+are monuments of the fifteenth century, to two relations of Pope Sixtus
+IV., Pietro Riario, and Cardinal Raffaelo Riario. To the right is the
+tomb of the Chevalier Girard, brother-in-law of Pope Julius II., and
+maître d'hôtel to Charles VIII. and Louis XII. of France. The tomb of
+Cardinal Bessarion was removed from the church, in 1702, to the
+cloisters of the adjoining Convent, which is the residence of the
+General of the Order of "Minori Conventuali" (Black Friars). The
+altar-piece represents the martyrdom of SS. Philip and James, by
+_Muratori_.
+
+The heart of Maria Clementina Sobieski (buried in St. Peter's), wife of
+James III., called the First Pretender, is also preserved here, as is
+shown by a Latin inscription.
+
+     "Le roi d'Angleterre est devot a l'excès; sa matinée se passe en
+     prières aux Saints-Apôtres, près du tombeau de sa femme."--_De
+     Brosses_, 1739.
+
+In 1552 this church was remarkable for the sermons of the monk Felix
+Peretti, afterwards Sixtus V.
+
+     "Suivant un manuscrit de la bibliothèque Alfieri, un jour, pendant
+     qu'il était dans la chaire des Saints-Apôtres, un billet cacheté
+     lui fut remis; Frère Félix l'ouvre et y lit, en face d'un certain
+     nombre de propositions que l'on disait être extraites de ses
+     discours, ce mot écrit en gros caractères: MENTIRIS (tu mens). Le
+     fougueux orateur eut peine à contenir son émotion; il termina son
+     sermon en quelques paroles, et courut au palais de l'Inquisition
+     présenter le billet mystérieux, et demander qu'on examinât
+     scrupuleusement sa doctrine. Cet examen lui fut favorable, et il
+     lui valut l'amitié du grand inquisiteur, Michael Ghislieri, qui
+     comprit aussitôt tout le parti qu'on pouvait tirer d'un homme dont
+     les moindres actions étaient empreintes d'une inébranlable force de
+     caractère."--_Gournerie._
+
+In this church is buried the young Countess Savorelli, the story of
+whose love, misfortunes, and death, has been celebrated by About, under
+the name of _Tolla_ (the Lello of the story having been one of the
+Doria-Pamfili family).
+
+     "The convent which Tolla had sanctified by her death sent three
+     embassies in turn to beg to preserve her relics: already the people
+     spoke of her as a saint. But Count Feraldi (Savorelli) considered
+     that it was due to his honour and to his vengeance to bear her
+     remains with pomp to the tomb of his family. He had sufficient
+     influence to obtain that for which permission is not granted once
+     in ten years: the right of transporting her uncovered, upon a bed
+     of white velvet, and of sparing her the horrors of a coffin. The
+     beloved remains were wrapped in the white muslin robe which she
+     wore in the garden on the day when she exchanged her sweet vows
+     with Lello. The Marchesa Trasimeni, ill and wasted as she was, came
+     herself to arrange her hair in the manner she loved. Every garden
+     in Rome despoiled itself to send her its flowers; it was only
+     necessary to choose. The funeral procession quitted the church of
+     S. Antonio Abbate on Thursday evening at 7.30 for the Santi
+     Apostoli, where the Feraldis are buried. The body was preceded by a
+     long file of the black and white confraternities, each bearing its
+     banner. The red light of the torches played upon the countenance of
+     the beautiful dead, and seemed to animate her afresh. The piazza
+     was filled with a dense and closely packed but dumb crowd; no
+     discordant sound troubled the grief of the relations and friends of
+     Tolla, who wept together at the Palazzo Feraldi....
+
+     "The Church of the Apostoli and the tomb of the poor loving girl,
+     became at certain days of the year an object of pilgrimage, and
+     more than one young Roman maiden adds to her evening litany the
+     words, 'St. Tolla, virgin and martyr, pray for us.'"--_About._
+
+Just beyond the church is the _Palazzo Muto-Savorelli_ (the home of
+Tolla, "Palazzo Feraldi") long the residence of Prince Charles Edward
+("the last Pretender"), who died here in 1788. Hence the _Via delle
+Vergini_, with its dismal lines of latticed convent-windows, leads to
+the Fountain of Trevi.
+
+Returning to the Corso, we pass (right) _Palazzo Buonaparte_, built by
+Giovanni dei Rossi in 1660. Here Lætitia Buonaparte--"Madame Mère"--the
+mother of Napoleon I., died February 2nd, 1836. The present head of the
+family is Cardinal Lucien-Louis Buonaparte, son of Prince Charles (son
+of Lucien) and of Princess Zénaïde, daughter of King Joseph of Spain.
+His only surviving brother is Prince Napoleon Buonaparte.
+
+This palace forms one corner of the _Piazza di Venezia_, which contains
+the ancient castellated _Palace_ of the Republic of Venice, built in
+1468 by Giuliano da Majano (with materials plundered from the Coliseum)
+for Paul II., who was of Venetian birth. On the ruin of the republic the
+palace fell into the hands of Austria, and is still the residence of the
+Austrian ambassador, to whom it was specially reserved on the cession of
+Venice to Italy.
+
+Opposite this, on a line with the Corso, is the _Palazzo Torlonia_,
+built by Fontana in 1650, for the Bolognetti family.
+
+     "Nobility is certainly more the fruit of wealth in Italy than in
+     England. Here, where a title and estate are sold together, a man
+     who can buy the one secures the other. From the station of a
+     lacquey, an Italian who can amass riches, may rise to that of duke.
+     Thus Torlonia, the Roman banker, purchased the title and estate of
+     the Duca di Bracciano, fitted up the 'Palazzo Nuovo di Torlonia'
+     with all the magnificence that wealth commands; and a marble
+     gallery, with its polished floors, modern statues, painted
+     ceilings, and gilded furniture, far outshines the faded splendour
+     of the halls of the old Roman nobility."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+     "Un ancien domestique de place, devenu spéculateur et banquier,
+     achète un marquisat, puis une principauté. Il crée un majorat pour
+     son fils aîné et une seconde géniture en faveur de l'autre. L'un
+     épouse une Sforza-Cesarini et marie ses deux fils à une Chigi et
+     une Ruspoli; l'autre obtient pour femme une Colonna-Doria. C'est
+     ainsi que la famille Torlonia, par la puissance de l'argent et la
+     faveur du saint-père, s'est élevée presque subitement à la hauteur
+     des plus grands maisons népotiques et féodales."--_About._
+
+The most interesting of the antiquities preserved in this palace is a
+bas-relief, representing a combat between men and animals, brought
+hither from the Palazzo Orsini, and probably pourtraying the famous
+dedication of the theatre of Marcellus on that site, celebrated by the
+slaughter of six hundred animals.
+
+The end of the Corso--narrowed by a projecting wing of the Venetian
+Palace--is known as the _Ripresa dei Barberi_, because there the
+horses, which run in the races during the Carnival, are caught in large
+folds of drapery let down across the street to prevent their dashing
+themselves to pieces against the opposite wall.
+
+Close to the end of this street, built into the wall of a house in the
+Via di Marforio, is one of the few relics of republican times in the
+city,--a Doric _Tomb_, bearing an inscription which states that it was
+erected by order of the people on land granted by the Senate to Caius
+Publicius Bibulus, the plebeian ædile, and his posterity. Petrarch
+mentions in one of his letters that he wrote one of his sonnets leaning
+against the tomb of Bibulus.
+
+This tomb has a secondary interest as marking the commencement of the
+Via Flaminia, as it stood just outside the Porta Ratumena from whence
+that road issued. There are some obscure remains of another tomb on the
+other side of the street. The Via Flaminia, like the Via Appia, was once
+fringed with tombs.
+
+From the Ripresa dei Barberi, a street passing under an arch on the
+right, leads to the back of the Venetian Palace, where is the _Church of
+S. Marco_, originally founded in the time of Constantine, but rebuilt in
+833, and modernized by Cardinal Quirini in 1744. Its portico, which is
+lined with early Christian inscriptions, contains a fine fifteenth
+century doorway, surmounted by a figure of St. Mark. The interior is in
+the form of a basilica, its naves and aisles separated by twenty
+columns, and ending in an apse. The best pictures are S. Marco, "a pope
+enthroned, by _Carlo Crivelli_, resembling in sharpness of finish and
+individuality the works of Bartolomeo Viviani,"[18] and a Resurrection
+by _Palma Giovane_.
+
+     "The mosaics of S. Marco, executed under Pope Gregory IV. (A.D.
+     827--844), with all their splendour, exhibit the utmost poverty of
+     expression. Above the tribune, in circular compartments, is the
+     portrait of Christ between the symbols of the Evangelists, and
+     further below SS. Peter and Paul (or two prophets) with scrolls;
+     within the tribune, beneath a hand extended with a wreath, is the
+     standing figure of Christ with an open book, and on either side, S.
+     Angelo and Pope Gregory IV. Further on, but still belonging to the
+     dome, are the thirteen lambs, forming a second and quite uneven
+     circle round the figures. The execution is here especially rude,
+     and of true Byzantine rigidity, while, as if the artist knew that
+     his long lean figures were anything but secure upon their feet, he
+     has given them each a separate little pedestal. The lines of the
+     drapery are chiefly straight and parallel, while, with all this
+     rudeness, a certain play of colour has been contrived by the
+     introduction of high lights of another colour."--_Kugler._
+
+This church is said to have been originally founded in honour of the
+Evangelist in 337 by Pope Marco, but this pope, being himself canonized,
+is also honoured here, and is buried under the high altar. On April
+25th, St. Mark's Day, a grand procession of clergy starts from this
+church. It was for the most part rebuilt under Gregory IV. in 838.
+
+Behind the Palazzo Venezia is the vast _Church of Il Gesù_, begun in
+1568 by the celebrated Vignola, but the cupola and façade completed in
+1575 by his scholar Giacomo della Porta. In the interior is the monument
+of Cardinal Bellarmin, and various pictures representing events in the
+lives or deaths of the Jesuit saints,--that of the death of St. Francis
+Xavier is by _Carlo Maratta_. The high altar, by Giacomo della Porta,
+has fine columns of giallo-antico. The altar of St. Ignatius at the end
+of the left transept is of gaudy magnificence. It was designed by Padre
+Pozzi, the group of the Trinity being by Bernardino Ludovisi; the globe
+in the hand of the Almighty is said to be the largest piece of
+lapis-lazuli in existence. Beneath this altar, and his silver statue,
+lies the body of St. Ignatius Loyola, in an urn of gilt bronze, adorned
+with precious stones. A great ceremony takes place in this church on
+July 31st, the feast of St. Ignatius, and on December 31st a Te Deum is
+sung here for the mercies of the past year, in the presence of the pope,
+cardinals, and the people of Rome,--a really solemn and impressive
+service.
+
+The _Convent of the Gesù_ is the residence of the General of the Jesuits
+("His Paternity"), and the centre of religious life in their Order. The
+rooms in which St. Ignatius lived and died are of the deepest historic
+interest. They consist of four chambers. The first, now a chapel, is
+that in which he wrote his "Constitutions." The second, also a chapel,
+is that in which he died. It contains the altar at which he daily
+celebrated mass, and the autograph engagement to live under the same
+laws of obedience, poverty, and chastity, signed by Laynez, Francis
+Xavier, and Ignatius Loyola. On its walls are two portraits of Ignatius
+Loyola, one as a young knight, the other as a Jesuit father, and
+portraits of S. Carlo Borromeo and S. Filippo Neri. It was in this
+chamber also that St. Francis Borgia died. The third room was that of
+the attendant monk of St. Ignatius; the fourth is now a kind of museum
+of relics containing portions of his robes and small articles which
+belonged to him and to other saints of the Order.
+
+Facing the Church of the Gesù is the _Palazzo Altieri_, built by
+Cardinal Altieri in 1670, from designs of Giov. Antonio Rossi.
+
+     "Quand le palais Altieri fut achevé, les Altieri, neveux de Clément
+     X., invitèrent leur oncle à le venir voir. Il s'y fit porter, et
+     d'aussi loin qu'il aperçut la magnificence et l'étendue de cette
+     superbe fabrique, il reboussa chemin le coeur serré, sans dire un
+     seul mot, et mourut peu après."--_De Brosses._
+
+     "On the staircase of the Palazzo Altieri, is an ancient colossal
+     marble _finger_, of such extraordinary size, that it is really
+     worth a visit."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+This palace was the residence of the late noble-hearted vicar-general,
+Cardinal Altieri, who died a martyr to his devotion to his flock (as
+Bishop of Albano) during the terrible visitation of cholera at Albano in
+1867.
+
+The _Piazza del Gesù_ is considered to be the most draughty place in
+Rome. The legend runs that the devil and the wind were one day taking a
+walk together. When they came to this square, the devil, who seemed to
+be very devout, said to the wind, "Just wait a minute, mio caro, while I
+go into this church." So the wind promised, and the devil went into the
+Gesù, and has never come out again--and the wind is blowing about in the
+Piazza del Gesù to this day.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+THE CAPITOLINE.
+
+
+     The Story of the Hill--Piazza del Campidoglio--Palace of the
+     Senator--View from the Capitol Tower--The Tabularium--The Museo
+     Capitolino--Gallery of Statues--Palace of the Conservators--Gallery
+     of Pictures--Palazzo Caffarelli--Tarpeian Rock--Convent and Church
+     of Ara-Coeli--Mamertine Prisons.
+
+The Capitoline was the hill of the kings and the republic, as the
+Palatine was of the empire.
+
+Entirely composed of tufa, its sides, now concealed by buildings or by
+the accumulated rubbish of ages, were abrupt and precipitous, as are
+still the sides of the neighbouring citadels of Corneto and Cervetri. It
+was united to the Quirinal by an isthmus of land cut away by Trajan, but
+in every other direction was isolated by its perpendicular cliffs:--
+
+    "Arduus in valles et fora clivus erat."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ i. 264.
+
+Up to the time of the Tarquins, it bore the name of Mons Saturnus,[19]
+from the mythical king Saturn, who is reported to have come to Italy in
+the reign of Janus, and to have made a settlement here. His name was
+derived from sowing, and he was looked upon as the introducer of
+civilization and social order, both of which are inseparably connected
+with agriculture. His reign here was thus considered to be the golden
+age of Italy. His wife was Ops, the representative of plenty.[20]
+
+     "C'est la tradition d'un âge de paix représenté par le règne
+     paisible de Saturne; avant qu'il y eut une _Roma_, ville de la
+     force, il y eut une _Saturnia_, ville de la paix."--_Ampère, Hist.
+     Rom._ i. 86.
+
+Virgil represents Evander, the mythical king of the Palatine, as
+exhibiting Saturnia, already in ruins, to Æneas.
+
+    "Hæc duo præterea disjectis oppida muris,
+    Reliquias veterumque vides monumenta virorum.
+    Hanc Janus pater, hanc Saturnus condidit arcem:
+    Janiculum huic, illi fuerat Saturnia nomen."
+
+    _Æn._ viii. 356.
+
+When Romulus had fixed his settlement upon the Palatine, he opened an
+asylum for fugitive slaves upon the then deserted Saturnus, and here, at
+a sacred oak, he is said to have offered up the spoils of the
+Cæcinenses, and their king Acron, who had made a war of reprisal upon
+him, after the rape of their women in the Campus Martius; here also he
+vowed to build a temple to Jupiter Feretrius, where spoils should always
+be offered. But in the mean time, the Sabines, under Titius Tatus,
+besieged and took the hill, having a gate of its fortress (said to have
+been on the ascent above the spot where the arch of Severus now stands)
+opened to them by Tarpeia, who gazed with longing upon the golden
+bracelets of the warriors, and, obtaining a promise to receive that
+which they wore upon their arms, was crushed by their shields as they
+entered. Some authorities, however, maintain that she asked and obtained
+the hand of king Tatius. From this time the hill was completely occupied
+by the Sabines, and its name became partially merged in that of _Mons
+Tarpeia_, which its southern side has always retained. Niebuhr states
+that it is a popular superstition that the beautiful Tarpeia still sits,
+sparkling with gold and jewels, enchanted and motionless, in a cave in
+the centre of the hill.
+
+After the death of Tatius, the Capitoline again fell under the
+government of Romulus, and his successor, Numa Pompilius, founded here a
+Temple of Fides Publica, in which the flamens were always to sacrifice
+with a fillet on their right hands, in sign of fidelity. To Numa also is
+attributed the worship of the god Terminus, who had a temple here in
+very early ages.
+
+Under Tarquinius Superbus, B.C. 535, the magnificent _Temple of Jupiter
+Capitolinus_, which had been vowed by his father, was built with money
+taken from the Volscians in war. In digging its foundations, the head of
+a man was found, still bloody, an omen which was interpreted by an
+Etruscan augur to portend that Rome would become the head of Italy. In
+consequence of this, the name of the hill was once more changed, and has
+ever since been _Mons Capitolinus_, or Capitolium.
+
+The site of this temple has always been one of the vexed questions of
+history. At the time it was built, as now, the hill consisted of two
+peaks, with a level space between them. Niebuhr and Gregorovius place
+the temple on the south-eastern height, but Canina and other
+authorities, with more probability, incline to the north-eastern
+eminence, the present site of Ara-Coeli, because, among many other
+reasons, the temple faced the south, and also the Forum, which it could
+not have done upon the south-eastern summit; and also because the
+citadel is always represented as having been nearer to the Tiber than
+the temple: for when Herdonius, and the Gauls, arriving by the river,
+scaled the heights of the Capitol, it was the _citadel_ which barred
+their path, and in which, in the latter case, Manlius was awakened by
+the noise of the sacred geese of Juno.
+
+The temple of Jupiter occupied a lofty platform, the summit of the rock
+being levelled to receive it. Its façade was decorated with three ranges
+of columns, and its sides by a single colonnade. It was nearly square,
+being 200 Roman feet in length, and 185 in width.[21] The interior was
+divided into three cells; the figure of Jupiter occupied that in the
+centre, Minerva was on his right, and Juno on his left. The figure of
+Jupiter was the work of an artist of the Volscian city of Fregellæ,[22]
+and was formed of terra-cotta, painted like the statues which we may
+still see in the Etruscan museum at the Vatican, and clothed with the
+tunica palmata, and the toga picta, the costume of victorious generals.
+In his right hand was a thunder-bolt, and in his left a spear.
+
+    "Jupiter angusta vix totus stabat in Æde;
+      Inque Jovis dextra fictile fulmen erat."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ i. 202.
+
+At a later period the statue was formed of gold, but this figure had
+ceased to exist in the time of Pliny.[23] When Martial wrote, the
+statues of Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva, were all gilt.
+
+    "Scriptus es æterno nunc primum, Jupiter, auro,
+    Et soror, et summi filia tota patris."
+
+    _Martial,_ xi. _Ep._ 5.
+
+In the wall adjoining the cella of Minerva, a nail was fastened every
+year, to mark the lapse of time.[24] In the centre of the temple was the
+statue of Terminus.
+
+     "The sumptuous fane of Jupiter Capitolinus had peculiar claims on
+     the veneration of the Roman citizens; for not only the great lord
+     of the earth was worshipped in it, but the conservative principle
+     of property itself found therein its appropriate symbol. While the
+     statue of Jupiter occupied the usual place of the divinity in the
+     furthest recess of the building, an image of the god Terminus was
+     also placed in the centre of the nave, which was open to the
+     heavens. A venerable legend affirmed, that when, in the time of the
+     kings, it was requisite to clear a space on the Capitoline to erect
+     on it a temple to the great father of the gods, and the shrines of
+     the lesser divinities were to be removed for the purpose, Terminus
+     alone, the patron of boundaries, refused to quit his place, and
+     demanded to be included in the walls of the new edifice. Thus
+     propitiated he was understood to declare that henceforth the bounds
+     of the republic should never be removed; and the pledge was more
+     than fulfilled by the ever increasing circuit of her
+     dominion."--_Merivale, Romans Under the Empire._
+
+The gates of the temple were of gilt bronze, and its pavement of
+mosaic;[25] in a vault beneath were preserved the Sibylline books placed
+there by Tarquin. The building of Tarquin lasted 400 years, and was
+burnt down in the civil wars, B.C. 83. It was rebuilt very soon
+afterwards by Sylla, and adorned with columns of Pentelic marble, which
+he had brought from the temple of Jupiter Olympus at Athens.[26] Sylla,
+however, did not live to rededicate it, and it was finished by Q.
+Lutatius Catulus, B.C. 62. This temple lasted till it was burnt to the
+ground by the soldiers of Vitellius, who set fire to it by throwing
+torches upon the portico, A.D. 69, and dragging forth Sabinus, the
+brother of Vespasian, murdered him at the foot of the Capitol, near the
+Mamertine Prisons.[27] Domitian, the younger son of Vespasian, was, at
+that time, in the temple with his uncle, and escaped in the dress of a
+priest; in commemoration of which, he erected a chapel to Jupiter
+Conservator, close to the temple, with an altar upon which his adventure
+was sculptured. The temple was rebuilt by Vespasian, who took so great
+an interest in the work, that he carried away some of the rubbish on his
+own shoulders; but his temple was the exact likeness of its predecessor,
+only higher, as the aruspices said that the gods would not allow it to
+be altered.[28] In this building Titus and Vespasian celebrated their
+triumph for the fall of Jerusalem. The ruin of the temple began in A.D.
+404, during the short visit of the youthful Emperor Honorius to Rome,
+when the plates of gold which lined its doors were stripped off by
+Stilicho.[29] It was finally plundered by the Vandals, in A.D. 455, when
+its statues were carried off to adorn the African palace of Genseric,
+and half its roof was stripped of the gilt bronze tiles which covered
+it; but it is not known precisely when it ceased to exist,--the early
+fathers of the Christian Church speak of having seen it. The story that
+the bronze statue of Jupiter, belonging to this temple, was transformed
+by Leo I. into the famous image of St. Peter, is very doubtful.
+
+Close beside this, the queen of Roman temples, stood the _Temple of
+Fides_, said to have been founded by Numa, where the senate were
+assembled at the time of the murder of Tiberius Gracchus, B.C. 133, who
+fell in front of the temple of Jupiter, at the foot of the statues of
+the kings: his blood being the first spilt in Rome in a civil war.[30]
+Near this, also, were the twin _Temples of Mars and Venus Erycina_,
+vowed after the battle of Thrasymene, and consecrated, B.C. 215, by the
+consuls Q. Fabius Maximus and T. Otacilius Crassus. Near the top of the
+Clivus was the _Temple of Jupiter Tonans_, built by Augustus, in
+consequence of a vow which he made in an expedition against the Cantabri
+when his litter was struck, and the slave who preceded him was killed by
+lightning. This temple was so near, that it was considered as a porch to
+that of Jupiter Capitolinus, and in token of that character, Augustus
+hung some bells upon its pediment.
+
+On the Arx, or opposite height of the Capitol, was the _Temple of Honour
+and Virtue_, built B.C. 103, by Marius, with the spoils taken in the
+Cimbric wars. This temple was of sufficient size to allow of the senate
+meeting there, to pass the decree for Cicero's recall.[31] Here Nardini
+places the ancient _Temple of Jupiter Feretrius_, in which Romulus
+dedicated the first spolia opima. Here, on the site of the house of
+Manlius, was built the _Temple of Juno Moneta_, B.C. 345, in accordance
+with a vow of L. Furius Camillus.[32] On this height, also, was the
+_Altar of Jupiter Pistor_, which commemorated the stratagem of the
+Romans, who threw down loaves into the camp of the besieging Gauls, to
+deceive them as to the state of their supplies.[33]
+
+    "Nomine, quam pretio celebratior, arce Tonantis,
+      Dicam Pistoris quid velit ara Jovis."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ vi. 349.
+
+It was probably also on this side of the hill that the gigantic _Statue
+of Jupiter_ stood, which was formed out of the armour taken from the
+Samnites, B.C. 293, and which is stated by Pliny to have been of such a
+size that it was visible from the top of Monte Cavo.
+
+Two cliffs are now rival claimants to be considered as the Tarpeian
+Rock; but it is most probable that the whole of the hill on this side of
+the Intermontium was called the Mons Tarpeia, and was celebrated under
+that name by the poets.
+
+    "In summo custos Tarpeiæ Manlius arcis
+    Stabat pro templo, et Capitolia celsa tenebat:
+    Romuleoque recens horrebat regia culmo.
+    Atque hic auratis volitans argenteus anser
+    Porticibus, Gallos in limine adesse canebat."
+
+    _Virgil, Æn._ viii. 652.
+
+    "Aurea Tarpeia ponet Capitolia rupe,
+    Et junget nostro templorum culmina coelo."
+
+    _Sil. Ital._ iii. 623.
+
+    ... "juvat inter tecta Tonantis,
+    Cernere Tarpeia pendentes rupe Gigantes."
+
+    _Claud._ vi. _Cons. Hon._ 44.
+
+Among the buildings upon the _Intermontium_, or space between the two
+heights, were the Tabularium, or Record Office, part of which still
+remains; a portico, built by Scipio Nasica,[34] and an arch which Nero
+built here to his own honour, the erection of which upon the sacred
+hill, hitherto devoted to the gods, was regarded even by the subservient
+senate as an unparalleled act of presumption.[35]
+
+In mediæval times the revolutionary government of Arnold of Brescia
+established itself on this hill (1144), and Pope Lucius II., in
+attempting to regain his temporal power, was slain with a stone in
+attacking it. Here Petrarch received his laurel crown (1341); and here
+the tribune Rienzi promulgated the laws of the "good estate." At this
+time nothing existed on the Capitol but the church and convent of
+Ara-Coeli, and a few ruins. Yet the cry of the people at the
+coronation of Petrarch, "Long life to _the Capitol_ and the poet!" shows
+that the scene itself was then still more present to their minds than
+the principal actor upon it. But, when the popes returned from Avignon,
+the very memory of the Capitol seemed effaced, and the spot was only
+known as the Goat's Hill,--_Monte Caprino_. Pope Boniface IX. (1389--94)
+was the first to erect on the Capitol, on the ruins of the Tabularium, a
+residence for the senator and his assessors, Paul III. (1544--50)
+employed Michael Angelo to lay out the Piazza del Campidoglio; when he
+designed the Capitoline Museum and the Palace of the Conservators. Pius
+IV., Gregory XIII., and Sixtus V. added the sculptures and other
+monuments which now adorn the steps and balustrade.[36]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Just beyond the end of the Corso, the _Via della Pedacchia_ turns to the
+right, under a quaint archway in the secret passage constructed as a
+means of escape for the Franciscan Generals of Ara-Coeli to the
+Palazzo Venezia, as that in the Borgo is for the escape of the popes to
+S. Angelo. In this street is a house decorated with simple but elegant
+Doric details, and bearing an inscription over the door which shows that
+it was that of Pietro da Cortona.
+
+The street ends in the sunny open space at the foot of the Capitol, with
+Ara-Coeli on its left, approached by an immense flight of steps,
+removed hither from the Temple of the Sun, on the Quirinal, but marking
+the site of the famous staircase to the temple of Jupiter Capitolinus,
+which Julius Cæsar descended on his knees, after his triumph for his
+Gallic victories.[37]
+
+The grand staircase, "_La Cordonnata_," was opened in its present form
+on the occasion of the entry of Charles V., in 1536.[38] At its foot are
+two lions of Egyptian porphyry, which were removed hither from the
+Church of S. Stefano in Cacco, by Pius IV. It was down the staircase
+which originally existed on this site, that Rienzi the tribune fled in
+his last moments, and close to the spot where the left-hand lion stands,
+that he fell, covered with wounds, his wife witnessing his death from a
+window of the burning palace above. A small space between the two
+staircases has lately been transformed into a garden, through which
+access may be obtained to four vaulted brick chambers, remnants of the
+substructions of the temple of Jupiter Capitolinus. A living wolf is
+kept here in commemoration of the nurse of Romulus and Remus.
+
+At the head of the stairs are colossal statues of the twin heroes,
+Castor and Pollux (brought hither from the Ghetto), commemorating the
+victory of the Lake Regillus, after which they rode before the army to
+Rome, to announce the joyful news, watered their horses at the Aqua
+Argentina, and then passed away from the gaze of the multitude into
+celestial spheres. Beyond these, on either side, are two trophies of
+imperial times discovered in the ruin on the Esquiline, misnamed the
+Trophies of Marius. Next come statues of Constantine the Great and his
+son Constantine II., from their baths on the Quirinal. The two ends of
+the parapet are occupied by ancient Milliaria, being the first and
+seventh milestones of the Appian Way. The first milestone was found in
+_situ_, and showed that the miles counted from the gates of Rome, and
+not, as was formerly supposed, from the Milliarium Aureum, at the foot
+of the Capitol.
+
+We now find ourselves in the _Piazza del Campidoglio_, occupying the
+Intermontium, where Brutus harangued the people after the murder of
+Julius Cæsar. In the centre of the square is the famous _Statue of
+Marcus Aurelius_, the only perfect ancient equestrian statue in
+existence. It was originally gilt, as may still be seen from marks of
+gilding upon the figure, and stood in front of the arch of
+Septimius-Severus. Hence it was removed by Sergius III. to the front of
+the Lateran, where, not long after, it was put to a singular use by John
+XIII., who hung a refractory prefect of the city from it by his
+hair.[39] During the rejoicings consequent upon the elevation of Rienzi
+to the tribuneship in 1347, one of its nostrils was made to flow with
+water and the other with wine. From its vicinity to the Lateran, so
+intimately connected with the history of Constantine, it was supposed
+during the middle ages to represent that Christian emperor, and this
+fortunate error alone preserved it from the destruction which befell so
+many other ancient imperial statues. Michael Angelo, when he designed
+the buildings of the Capitoline Piazza, wished to remove the statue to
+its present site, but the canons of the Lateran were unwilling to part
+with their treasure, and only consented to its removal upon an annual
+acknowledgment of their proprietorship, for which a bunch of flowers is
+still presented once a year by the senators to the chapter of the
+Lateran. Michael Angelo, standing in fixed admiration before this
+statue, is said to have bidden the horse "Cammina." Even until late
+years an especial guardian has been appointed to take care of it, with
+an annual stipend of ten scudi a year, and the title of "Il custode del
+Cavallo."
+
+     "They stood awhile to contemplate the bronze equestrian statue of
+     Marcus Aurelius. The moonlight glistened upon traces of the gilding
+     which had once covered both rider and steed; these were almost
+     gone, but the aspect of dignity was still perfect, clothing the
+     figure as it were with an imperial robe of light. It is the most
+     majestic representation of the kingly character that ever the world
+     has seen. A sight of the old heathen emperor is enough to create an
+     evanescent sentiment of loyalty even in a democratic bosom, so
+     august does he look, so fit to rule, so worthy of man's profoundest
+     homage and obedience, so inevitably attractive of his love. He
+     stretches forth his hand with an air of proud magnificence and
+     unlimited authority, as if uttering a decree from which no appeal
+     was permissible, but in which the obedient subject would find his
+     highest interests consulted: a command that was in itself a
+     benediction."--_Hawthorne._
+
+     "I often ascend the Capitoline Hill to look at Marcus Aurelius and
+     his horse, and have not been able to refrain from caressing the
+     lions of basalt. You cannot stand on the Aventine or the Palatine
+     without grave thoughts, but standing on the spot brings me very
+     little nearer the image of past ages."--_Niebuhr's Letters._
+
+     "La statue équestre de Marc-Aurèle a aussi sa légende, et celle-là
+     n'est pas du moyen âge, mais elle a été recueillie il y a peu
+     d'années de la bouche d'un jeune Romain. La dorure, en partie
+     détruite, se voit encore en quelques endroits. A en croire le jeune
+     Romain, cependant, la dorure, au lieu d'aller s'effaçant toujours
+     davantage, était en voie de progrès. 'Voyez, disait-il, la statue
+     de bronze commence à se dorer, et quand elle le sera entièrement,
+     le monde finira.'--C'est toujours, sous une forme absurde, la
+     vieille idée romaine, que les destinées et l'existence de Rome sont
+     liées aux destinées et à l'existence du monde. C'est ce qui faisait
+     dire au septième siècle; ainsi que les pèlerins saxons l'avaient
+     entendu et le répétaient; 'Quand le Colisée tombera, Rome et le
+     monde finiront.'"--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 228.
+
+The building at the back of the piazza is _The Palace of the Senator_,
+originally built by Boniface IX. (1389), but altered by Michael Angelo
+to correspond with his buildings on either side. The fountain at the
+foot of the double staircase was erected by Sixtus V., and is adorned
+with statues of river gods found in the Colonna Gardens, and a curious
+porphyry figure of Minerva--adapted as Rome. The body of this statue
+was found at Cori, but the head and arms are modern additions.
+
+     "Rome personnifiée, cette déesse à laquelle on érigea des temples,
+     voulut d'abord être une Amazone, ce qui se conçoit, car elle était
+     guerrière avant tout. C'est sous la forme de Minerve que Rome est
+     assise sur la place du Capitole."--_Ampère, Hist. Romaine_, iii.
+     242.
+
+In the interior of this building the Hall of the Senators contains some
+papal statues, and that of Charles of Anjou, who was made senator of
+Rome in the thirteenth century.
+
+The _Tower of the Capitol_ contains the great bell of Viterbo, carried
+off from that town during the wars of the middle ages, which is never
+rung except to announce the death of a pope, or the opening of the
+carnival. During the closing years of the temporal power of the popes,
+it has been difficult to obtain admission to the tower, but the ascent
+is well repaid by the view from the summit, which embraces not only the
+seven hills of Rome, but the various towns and villages of the
+neighbouring plain and mountains which successively fell under its
+dominion.
+
+     "Pour suivre les vicissitudes des luttes extérieures des Romains
+     contre les peuples qui les entourent et les pressent de tous côtés,
+     nous n'aurons qu'à regarder à l'horizon la sublime campagne romaine
+     et ces montagnes qui l'encadrent si admirablement. Elles sont
+     encore plus belles et l'oeil prend encore plus de plaisir à les
+     contempler quand on songe à ce qu'elles ont vu d'efforts et de
+     courage dans les premiers temps de la république. Il n'est presque
+     pas un point de cette campagne qui n'ait été témoin de quelque
+     rencontre glorieuse; il n'est presque un rocher de ces montagnes
+     qui n'est été pris et repris vingt fois.
+
+     "Toutes ces nations sabelliques qui dominaient la ville du Tibre et
+     semblaient placées là sur des hauteurs disposées en demi-cercle
+     pour l'envelopper et l'écraser, toutes ces nations sont devant nous
+     et à la portée du regard.
+
+     "Voici de côté de la mer les montagnes des Volsques; plus à l'est
+     sont les Herniques et les Æques; au nord, les Sabins; à l'ouest,
+     d'autres ennemis, les Etrusques, dont le mont Ciminus est le
+     rempart.
+
+     "Au sud, la plaine se prolonge jusqu'à la mer. Ici sont les Latins,
+     qui, n'ayant pas des montagnes pour leur servir de citadelle et de
+     refuge, commenceront par être des alliés.
+
+     "Nous pouvons donc embrasser le panorama historique des premiers
+     combats qu'eurent à soutenir et que soutinrent si vaillamment les
+     Romains affranchis."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ ii. 373.
+
+Beneath the Palace of the Senator (entered by a door in the street on
+the right), are the gigantic remains of the _Tabularium_, consisting of
+huge rectangular blocks of peperino supporting a Doric colonnade, which
+is shown by an inscription still preserved to have been that of the
+public Record Office, where the Tabulæ, engraved plates bearing
+important decrees of the Senate, were preserved, having been placed
+there by Q. Lutatius Catulus in B.C. 79. A gallery in the interior of
+the Tabularium has been fitted up as a museum of architectural
+antiquities collected from the neighbouring temples. This building is as
+it were the boundary between inhabited Rome and that Rome which is a
+city of ruins.
+
+     "I came to the Capitol, and looked down on the other side. There
+     before my eyes opened an immense grave, and out of the grave rose a
+     city of monuments in ruins, columns, triumphal arches, temples, and
+     palaces, broken, ruinous, but still beautiful and grand,--with a
+     solemn mournful beauty! It was the giant apparition of ancient
+     Rome."--_Frederika Bremer._
+
+The traces of an ancient staircase still exist, which led down from the
+Tabularium to the Forum. This is believed by many to have been the path
+by which the besiegers under Vitellius, A.D. 69, attacked the Capitol.
+
+The east side of the piazza--on the left as one stands at the head of
+the steps--is the _Museo Capitolino_ (open daily from 9 to 4, for a
+fee; and on Mondays and Thursdays gratis, from 2-1/2 to 4-1/2).
+
+Above the fountain in the court, opposite the entrance, reclines the
+colossal statue of a river-god, called Marforio, removed hither from the
+end of the Via di Marforio (Forum Martis?) near the arch of Severus.
+This figure, according to Roman fancy, was the friend and gossip of
+Pasquin (at the Palazzo Braschi), and lively dialogues, merciless to the
+follies of the government and the times, used to appear with early
+morning, placarded on their respective pedestals, as passing between the
+two. Thus, when Clement XI. mulcted Rome of numerous sums to send to his
+native Urbino, Marforio asked, "What is Pasquino doing?" The next
+morning Pasquin answered, "I am taking care of Rome, that it does not go
+away to Urbino." In the desire of putting an end to such inconvenient
+remarks, the government ordered the removal of one of the statues to the
+Capitol, and, since Marforio has been shut up, Pasquino has lost his
+spirits.
+
+From the corridor on the ground floor open several rooms devoted to
+ancient inscriptions and sarcophagi with bas-reliefs. The first room on
+the left has some bronzes--in the centre a mutilated horse, found, 1849,
+in the Trastevere.
+
+     "Calamis, venu un peu avant Phidias, n'eut point de rival pour les
+     chevaux. Calamis, qui fut fondeur en bronze, serait-il l'auteur du
+     cheval de bronze du Capitole, qui, en effet, semble plutôt un peu
+     antérieur que postérieur à Phidias?"--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii.
+     234.
+
+At the foot of the staircase is a colossal statue of the Emperor
+Hadrian, found on the Coelian.
+
+The _Staircase_ is lined with the fragments of the _Pianta Capitolina_,
+a series of marble slabs of imperial date (found in the sixteenth
+century under SS. Cosmo and Damian), inscribed with ground plans of
+Rome, and exceedingly important from the light they throw upon the
+ancient topography of the city.
+
+The upper _Corridor_ is lined with statues and busts. Here and elsewhere
+we will only notice those especially remarkable for beauty or historic
+interest.[40]
+
+     L. 12. Satyr playing on a flute.
+     R. 13. Cupid bending his bow.
+     R. 20. Old woman intoxicated.
+
+     "Tout le monde a remarqué dans le musée du Capitole une vieille
+     femme serrant des deux mains une bouteille, la bouche entr'ouverte,
+     les yeux mourants tournés vers le ciel, comme si, dans la
+     jubilation de l'ivresse, elle savourait le vin qu'elle vient de
+     boire. Comment ne pas voir dans cette caricature en marbre une
+     reproduction de _la Vielle Femme ivre_ de Myron, qui passait pour
+     une des curiosités de Smyrne."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 272.
+
+    L. 26. The infant Hercules strangling a serpent.
+    L. 28. Grand Sarcophagus--the Rape of Proserpine.
+    R. 33. Satyr playing on a flute.
+    (In the wall on the left inscriptions from the columbarium of Livia.)
+    R. 43. Head of Ariadne.
+    L. 48. Sarcophagus--the birth and childhood of Bacchus.
+    L. 56. Statue, draped.
+    R. 64. Jupiter, on a cippus with a curious relief of Claudia drawing
+    the boat with the image of the Magna Mater up the Tiber.
+    L. 69. Bust of Caligula.
+    R. 70. Marcus Aurelius, as a boy--a very beautiful bust.
+    R. 70. Statue of Minerva from Velletri. The same as that in the
+    Braccio Nuovo of the Vatican.
+    R. 72. Trajan.
+    76. In the window, a magnificent vase, found near the tomb
+    of Cecilia Metella, standing on a puteal adorned with reliefs of the
+    twelve principal gods and goddesses.
+
+From the right of this corridor open two chambers. The first is named
+the _Room of the Doves_, from the famous mosaic found in the ruins of
+Hadrian's villa near Tivoli, and generally called _Pliny's Doves_,
+because Pliny, when speaking of the perfection to which the mosaic art
+had attained, describes a wonderful mosaic of Sosus of Pergamos, in
+which one dove is seen drinking and casting her shadow on the water,
+while others are pluming themselves on the edge of the vase. As a
+pendant to this is another _Mosaic, of a Tragic and Comic Mask_. In the
+farther window is the _Iliac Tablet_, an interesting relief in the soft
+marble called palombino, relating to the story of the destruction of
+Troy, and the flight of Æneas, and found at Bovillæ.
+
+     "L'ensemble de la guerre contre Troie est contenu dans un abrégé
+     figuré qu'on appelle la Table Iliaque, petit bas-relief destiné à
+     offrir un résumé visible de cette guerre aux jeunes Romains, et à
+     servir dans les écoles soit pour l'_Iliade_, soit pour les poëmes
+     cycliques comme d'un _Index parlant_.
+
+     "La Table Iliaque est un ouvrage romain fait à Rome. Tout ce qui
+     touche aux origines troyennes de cette ville, inconnues à Homère et
+     célébrées surtout par Stésichore avant de l'être par Virgile, tient
+     dans ce bas-relief une place importante et domine dans sa
+     composition."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 431.
+
+In the centre of the room is a pretty statuette of a girl shielding a
+dove.
+
+The second chamber, known as _The Reserved Cabinet_, contains the famous
+_Venus of the Capitol_--a Greek statue, found immured in a wall upon the
+Quirinal.
+
+     "La vérité et la complaisance avec lesquelles la nature est rendue
+     dans la Vénus du Capitole faisaient de cette belle statue,--qui
+     pourtant n'a rien d'indécent bien que par une pruderie peu chaste
+     on l'ait reléguée dans un cabinet réservé,--faisaient de cette
+     belle statue un sujet de scandale pour l'austérité des premiers
+     chrétiens. C'était sans doute afin de la soustraire à leurs
+     mutilations qu'on l'avait enfouie avec soin, ce qui l'a conservée
+     dans son intégrité; ainsi son danger l'a sauvée. Comme on l'a
+     trouvée dans le quartier suspect de la Suburra, on peut supposer
+     qu'elle ornait l'atrium élégant de quelque riche
+     courtisane."--_Ampère_, iii. 318.
+
+The two smaller sculptures of Leda and the Swan, and Cupid and
+Psyche--two lovely children embracing (most needlessly secluded here),
+were found on the Aventine.
+
+From the end of the gallery we enter
+
+_The Hall of the Emperors._ In the centre is the beautiful seated statue
+of Agrippina (grand-daughter of Augustus--wife of Germanicus--and mother
+of Caligula).
+
+     "On s'arrête avec respect devant la première Agrippine, assise avec
+     une si noble simplicité et dont le visage exprime si bien la
+     fermeté virile."--_Ampère_, iv.
+
+     "Ici nous la contemplons telle que nous pouvons nous la figurer
+     après la mort de Germanicus. Elle semble mise aux fers par le
+     destin, mais sans pouvoir encore renoncer aux pensées superbes dont
+     son âme était remplie aux jours de son bonheur."--_Braun._
+
+Round the room are ranged 83 busts of Roman emperors, empresses, and
+their near relations, forming perhaps the most interesting portrait
+gallery in the world. Even viewed as works of art, many of them are of
+the utmost importance. They are--
+
+     1. Julius Cæsar, nat. B.C. 100; ob. B.C. 44.
+     2. Augustus, Imp. B.C. 12--A.D. 14.
+     3. Marcellus, his nephew and son-in-law, son
+     of Octavia, ob. B.C. 23, aged 20.
+     4, 5. Tiberius, Imp. A.D. 14-37.
+     6. Drusus, his brother, son of Livia and Claudius Nero, ob. B.C. 10.
+     7. Drusus, son of Tiberius and Vipsania, ob. A.D. 23.
+     8. Antonia, daughter of Mark Antony and Octavia, wife of the elder
+     Drusus, mother of Germanicus and Claudius.
+     9. Germanicus, son of Drusus and Antonia, ob. A.D. 19.
+     10. Agrippina, daughter of Julia and Agrippa, granddaughter of
+     Augustus, wife of Germanicus. Died of starvation under Tiberius, A.D. 33.
+     11. Caligula, Imp. A.D. 37-41, son of Germanicus and
+     Agrippina. Murdered by the tribune Cheroea (in basalt).
+     12. Claudius, Imp. A.D. 41-54, younger son of Drusus and Antonia.
+     Poisoned by Agrippina.
+     13. Messalina, third wife of Claudius. Put
+     to death by Claudius, A.D. 48.
+
+     "Une grosse commère sensuelle, aux traits bouffis, à l'air assez
+     commun, mais qui pouvait plaire à Claude."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 32.
+
+    14. Agrippina the younger, sixth wife of Claudius, daughter of Germanicus
+        and Agrippina the elder, great-granddaughter of Augustus. Murdered by
+        her son Nero, A.D. 60.
+
+     "Ce buste la montre avec cette beauté plus grande que celle de sa
+     mère, et qui était pour elle un moyen. Agrippine a les yeux levés
+     vers le ciel, on dirait qu'elle craint, et qu'elle attend."--_Emp._
+     ii. 34.
+
+    15, 16. Nero, Imp. A.D. 54-69, son of Agrippina the younger by her first
+        husband, Ahenobarbus. Died by his own hand.
+    17. Poppæa Sabina (?), second wife of Nero. Killed by a kick from
+    her husband, A.D. 62.
+
+     "Ce visage a la délicatesse presque enfantine que pouvait offrir
+     celui de cette femme, dont les molles recherches et les soins
+     curieux de toilette étaient célèbres, et dont Diderot a dit avec
+     vérité, bien qu'avec un peu d'emphase, 'C'était une furie sous le
+     visage des grâces.'"--_Emp._ ii. 38.
+
+    18. Galba, Imp. A.D. 69. Murdered in the Forum.
+    19. Otho, Imp. A.D. 69. Died by his own hand.
+    20. Vitellius (?), Imp. A.D. 69. Murdered at the Scalæ Gemoniæ.
+    21. Vespasian, Imp. A.D. 70-79.
+    22. Titus, Imp. A.D. 79-81. Supposed to have been poisoned by Domitian.
+    23. Julia, daughter of Titus.
+    24. Domitian, Imp. A.D. 81-96, son of Vespasian. Murdered
+        in the Palace of the Cæsars.
+
+     "Domitien est sans comparaison le plus beau des trois Flaviens:
+     mais c'est une beauté formidable, avec un air farouche et
+     faux."--_Emp._ ii. 12.
+
+  25. Longina (?).
+  26. Nerva (?), Imp. A.D. 96.
+  27. Trajan, Imp. A.D. 98-118.
+  28. Plotina, wife of Trajan.
+  29. Marciana, sister of Trajan.
+  30. Matidia, daughter of Marciana, niece of Trajan.
+  31, 32. Hadrian, Imp. A.D. 118-138, adopted son of Trajan.
+  33. Julia Sabina, wife of Hadrian, daughter of Matidia.
+  34. Elius Verus, first adopted son of Hadrian.
+  35. Antoninus Pius, Imp. A.D. 138-161, second adopted son of Hadrian.
+  36. Faustina the elder, wife of Antoninus Pius and sister of Elius Verus.
+  37. Marcus Aurelius, Imp. A.D. 161-180, son of Servianus by Paulina, sister
+      of Hadrian, adopted by Antoninus Pius, as a boy.
+  38. Marcus Aurelius, in later life.
+  39. Annia Faustina, wife of Marcus Aurelius, daughter of Antoninus Pius
+      and Faustina the elder.
+  40. Galerius Antoninus, son of Antoninus Pius.
+  41. Lucius Verus, son-in-law of Marcus Aurelius.
+  42. Lucilla, wife of Lucius Verus, daughter of Marcus Aurelius and Faustina
+      the younger. Put to death at Capri for a plot against her husband.
+  43. Commodus, Imp. A.D. 180-193, son of Marcus Aurelius and Faustina.
+      Murdered in the Palace of the Cæsars.
+  44. Crispina, wife of Commodus. Put to death by her husband at Capri.
+  45. Pertinax, Imp. A.D. 193, successor of Commodus, reigned three months.
+      Murdered in the Palace of the Cæsars.
+  46. Didius Julianus, Imp. A.D. 193, successor of Pertinax. Murdered in
+      the Palace of the Cæsars.
+  47. Manlia Scantilla (?), wife of Didius Julianus.
+                       {rival candidates (after murder of Didius
+  48. Pescennius Niger,{Julianus, A.D. 193) for the Empire, which
+  49. Clodius Albinus, {they failed to obtain, and were both put to
+                       {death.
+  50, 51. Septimius Severus, Imp. A.D. 193-211, successor of Didius Julianus.
+  52. Julia Pia, wife of Septimius Severus.
+  53. Caracalla, Imp. A.D. 211-217, son of Sept. Severus and Julia Pia.
+      Murdered.
+  54. Geta, brother of Caracalla, by whose order he was murdered in the
+      arms of Julia Pia.
+  55. Macrinus, Imp. A.D. 217, murderer and successor of Caracalla. Murdered.
+  56. Diadumenianus, son of Macrinus. Murdered with his father.
+  57. Heliogabalus, Imp. A.D. 218--222, son of Julia Soemis, daughter of
+      Julia Moesa, who was sister of Julia Pia. Murdered.
+  58. Annia Faustina, third wife of Heliogabalus, great-granddaughter of
+      Marcus Aurelius.
+  59. Julia Moesa, sister-in-law of Septimius Severus, aunt of Caracalla,
+      and grandmother of Alexander Severus.
+  60. Alexander Severus, Imp., son of Julia Mammea, second daughter of Julia
+      Moesa. Murdered at the age of 30.
+  61. Julia Mammea, daughter of Julia Moesa, and mother of Alexander
+      Severus. Murdered with her son.
+  62. Julius Maximinus, Imp. 235--238; elected by the army. Murdered.
+  63. Maximus. Murdered with his father, at the age of 18.
+  64. Gordianus Africanus, Imp. 238; a descendant of Trajan. Died by his
+      own hand.
+  65. (Antoninus) Gordianus, Junior, Imp. 238, son of Gordianus Africanus and
+      Fabia Orestella, great-granddaughter of Antoninus Pius. Died in battle.
+  66. Pupienus, Imp. 238, {reigned together for four months and then
+  67. Balbinus, Imp. 238, {were murdered.
+  68. Gordianus Pius, Imp. 238, grandson, through his mother, of Gordianus
+      Africanus. Murdered.
+  69. Philip II., Imp. 244, son of, and co-emperor with Philip I. Murdered.
+  70. Decius(?), Imp. 249--251. Forcibly elected by the army. Killed in
+      battle.
+  71. Quintus Herennius Etruscus, son of Decius and Herennia Etruscilla.
+      Killed in battle with his father.
+  72. Hostilianus, son or son-in-law of Decius, Imp. 251, with Treb. Gallus.
+      Murdered.
+  73. Trebonianus Gallus, Imp. 251--254. Murdered.
+  74, 75. Volusianus, son of Trebonianus Gallus. Murdered.
+  76. Gallienus, Imp. 261--268. Murdered.
+  77. Salonina, wife of Gallienus.
+  78. Saloninus, son of Gallienus and Salonina. Put to death by Postumus, A.D.
+      259, at the age of 17.
+  79. Marcus Aurelius Carinus, Imp. 283, son of the Emperor Carus. Murdered.
+  80. Diocletian, Imp. 284-305; elected by the army.
+  81. Constantinus Chlorus, Imp. 305-306, son of Eutropius and Claudia, niece
+      of the Emperor Claudius and Quintilius, father of Constantine the Great.
+  82. Julian the Apostate, Imp. 361-363, son of Julius Constantius and nephew
+      of Constantine the Great. Died in battle.
+  83. Magnus Decentius, brother of the Emperor Magnentius. Strangled
+      himself, 353.
+
+     "In their busts the lips of the Roman emperors are generally
+     closed, indicating reserve and dignity, free from human passions
+     and emotions."--_Winckelmann._
+
+     "At Rome the emperors become as familiar as the popes. Who does not
+     know the curly-headed Marcus Aurelius, with his lifted brow and
+     projecting eyes--from the full round beauty of his youth to the
+     more haggard look of his latest years? Are there any modern
+     portraits more familiar than the severe wedge-like head of
+     Augustus, with his sharp cut lips and nose,--or the dull phiz of
+     Hadrian, with his hair combed down over his low forehead,--or the
+     vain, perking face of Lucius Verus, with his thin nose, low brow,
+     and profusion of curls,--or the brutal bull head of Caracalla,--or
+     the bestial, bloated features of Vitellius?
+
+     "These men, who were but lay figures to us at school, mere pegs of
+     names to hang historic robes upon, thus interpreted by the living
+     history of their portraits, the incidental illustrations of the
+     places where they lived and moved and died, and the buildings and
+     monuments they erected, become like men of yesterday. Art has made
+     them our contemporaries. They are as near to us as Pius VII. and
+     Napoleon."--_Story's Roba di Roma._
+
+     "Nerva est le premier des bons, et Trajan le premier des grands
+     empereurs romains; après lui il y en eut deux autres, les deux
+     Antonins. Trois sur soixante-dix, tel est à Rome le bilan des
+     gloires morales de l'empire."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ liii.
+
+Among the reliefs round the upper walls of this room are two,--of
+Endymion sleeping, and of Perseus delivering Andromeda, which belong to
+the set in the Palazzo Spada, and are exceedingly beautiful.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_The Hall of Illustrious Men_ contains a seated statue of M. Claudius
+Marcellus (?), the conqueror of Syracuse, B.C. 212. Round the room are
+ranged 93 busts of ancient philosophers, statesmen, and warriors. Among
+the more important are:--
+
+       4, 5, 6. Socrates.
+             9. Aristides, the orator.
+            10. Seneca (?).
+            16. Marcus Agrippa.
+            19. Theophrastus.
+            23. Thales.
+            25. Theon.
+            27. Pythagoras.
+            28. Alexander the Great(?).
+            30. Aristophanes.
+            31. Demosthenes.
+            38. Aratus.
+        39, 40. Democritus of Aldera.
+        42, 43. Euripides.
+    44, 45, 46. Homer.
+            47. Eumenides.
+            48. Cneius Domitius Corbulo, general under Claudius and Nero.
+            49. Scipio Africanus.
+            52. Cato Minor.
+            54. Aspasia(?).
+            55. Cleopatra (?).
+            60. Thucydides (?).
+            61. Æschines.
+        62, 64. Epicurus.
+            63. Epicurus and Metrodorus.
+        68, 69. Masinissa.
+            71. Antisthenes.
+        72, 73. Julian the Apostate.
+            75. Cicero.
+            76. Terence.
+            82. Æschylus (?).
+
+Among the interesting bas-reliefs in this room is one of a Roman
+interior with a lady trying to persuade her cat to dance to a lyre--the
+cat, meanwhile, snapping, on its hind legs, at two ducks; the detail of
+the room is given--even to the slippers under the bed.
+
+_The Saloon_ contains, down the centre,
+
+     1. Jupiter (in nero-antico), from Porto d'Anzio, on an altar with
+     figures of Mercury, Apollo, and Diana.
+
+     2, 4. Centaurs (in bigio-morato), by _Aristeas_ and _Papias_ (their
+     names are on the bases), from Hadrian's villa.
+
+     3. The young Hercules, found on the Aventine. It stands on an altar
+     of Jupiter.
+
+     "On voit au Capitole une statue d'Hercule très-jeune, en basalte,
+     qui frappe assez désagréablement, d'abord, par le contraste,
+     habilement exprimé toutefois, des formes molles de l'enfance et de
+     la vigueur caractéristique du héros. L'imitation de la Grèce se
+     montre même dans la matière que l'artiste a choisie; c'est un
+     basalt verdâtre, de couleur sombre. Tisagoras et Alcon avaient fait
+     un Hercule en fer, pour exprimer la force, et, comme dit Pline,
+     pour signifier l'énergie persévérante de dieu."--_Ampère, Hist.
+     Rom._ iii. 406.
+
+     5. Æsculapius (in nero-antico), on an altar, representing a
+     sacrifice.
+
+Among the statues and busts round the room the more important are:--
+
+     9. Marcus Aurelius.
+
+     14. A Satyr.
+
+     21. Hadrian, as Mars, from Ceprano.
+
+     24. Hercules, in gilt bronze, found in the Forum-Boarium (the
+     columns on either side come from the tomb of Cecilia Metella).
+
+     "On cite de Myron trois Hercules, dont deux à Rome; l'un de ces
+     derniers a probablement servi de modèle à l'Hercule en bronze doré
+     du Capitole. Cette statue a été trouvée dans le marché aux
+     Boeufs, non loin du grand cirque. L'Hercule de Myron était dans
+     un temple élevé par Pompée et situé près du grand cirque; mais la
+     statue du Capitole, dont le geste est maniéré, quel que soit son
+     mérite, n'est pas assez parfaite qu'on puisse y reconnaître une
+     oeuvre de Myron. Peut-être Pompée n'avait placé dans son temple
+     qu'une copie de l'un des deux Hercules de Myron et la donnait pour
+     l'original; peut-être aussi Pline y a-t-il été trompé. La vanité
+     que l'un montre dans tous les actes de sa vie et le peu de
+     sentiment vrai que trahit si souvent la vaste composition de
+     l'autre s'accordent également avec cette supposition et la rendent
+     assez vraisemblable."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 273.
+
+     28. Hecuba.
+
+     "Nous avons le personnage même d'Hécube dans la Pleureuse du
+     Capitole. Cette prétendué pleureuse est une Hécube furieuse et une
+     Hécube en scène, car elle porte le costume, elle a le geste et la
+     vivacité du théâtre, je dirais volontiers de la pantomime.... Son
+     regard est tourné vers le ciel, sa bouche lance des imprécations;
+     on voit qu'elle pourra faire entendre ces hurlements, ces
+     aboiements de la douleur effrénée que l'antiquité voulut exprimer
+     en supposant que la malheureuse Hécube avait été métamorphosée en
+     chienne, une chienne à laquelle on a arraché ses petits."--_Ampère,
+     Hist. Rom._ iii. 468.
+
+     31. Colossal bust of Antoninus Pius.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_The Hall of the Faun_ derives its name from the famous Faun of
+rosso-antico, holding a bunch of grapes to his mouth, found in Hadrian's
+Villa. It stands on an altar dedicated to Serapis. Against the right
+wall is a magnificent sarcophagus, whose reliefs (much studied by
+Flaxman) represent the battle of Theseus and the Amazons. The opposite
+sarcophagus has a relief of Diana and Endymion. We should also notice--
+
+15. A boy with a mask.
+
+21. A boy with a goose (found near the Lateran).
+
+Let into the wall is a black tablet--the Lex Regia, or
+Senatus-Consultum, conferring imperial powers upon Vespasian, being the
+very table upon which Rienzi declaimed in favour of the rights of the
+people.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_The Hall of the Dying Gladiator_ contains the three gems of the
+collection--"the Gladiator," "the Antinous of the Capitol," and the
+"Faun of Praxiteles." Besides these, we should notice--2. Apollo with
+the lyre, and 9. a bust of M. Junius Brutus, the assassin of Julius
+Cæsar.
+
+In the centre of the room is the grand statue of the wounded Gaul,
+generally known as the Dying Gladiator.
+
+    "I see before me the gladiator lie:
+    He leans upon his hand--his manly brow
+    Consents to death, but conquers agony,
+    And his drooped head sinks gradually low,--
+    And through his side the last drops, ebbing slow
+    From the red gash, fall heavy, one by one,
+    Like the first of a thunder-shower; and now
+    The arena swims around him--he is gone,
+    Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hailed the wretch who won.
+
+    "He heard it, but he heeded not--his eyes
+    Were with his heart, and that was far away;
+    He reck'd not of the life he lost, nor prize,
+    But where his rude hut by the Danube lay
+    There were his young barbarians all at play,
+    There was their Dacian mother--he, their sire,
+    Butchered to make a Roman holiday.
+    All this rushed with his blood--shall he expire,
+    And unavenged? Arise, ye Goths, and glut your ire!"
+
+    _Byron, Childe Harold._
+
+It is delightful to read in this room the description in
+_Transformation_:--
+
+     "It was that room in the centre of which reclines the noble and
+     most pathetic figure of the dying gladiator, just sinking into his
+     death-swoon. Around the walls stand the Antinous, the Amazon, the
+     Lycian Apollo, the Juno; all famous productions of antique
+     sculpture, and still shining in the undiminished majesty and beauty
+     of their ideal life, although the marble that embodies them is
+     yellow with time, and perhaps corroded by the damp earth in which
+     they lay buried for centuries. Here, likewise, is seen a symbol (as
+     apt at this moment as it was two thousand years ago) of the Human
+     Soul, with its choice of Innocence or Evil close at hand, in the
+     pretty figure of a child, clasping a dove to her bosom, but
+     assaulted by a snake.
+
+     "From one of the windows of this saloon, we may see a broad flight
+     of stone steps, descending alongside the antique and massive
+     foundation of the Capitol, towards the battered triumphal arch of
+     Septimius Severus, right below. Farther on, the eye skirts along
+     the edge of the desolate Forum (where Roman washerwomen hang out
+     their linen to the sun), passing over a shapeless confusion of
+     modern edifices, piled rudely up with ancient brick and stone, and
+     over the domes of Christian churches, built on the old pavements
+     of heathen temples, and supported by the very pillars that once
+     upheld them. At a distance beyond--yet but a little way,
+     considering how much history is heaped into the intervening
+     space--rises the great sweep of the Coliseum, with the blue sky
+     brightening through its upper tier of arches. Far off, the view is
+     shut in by the Alban mountains, looking just the same, amid all
+     this decay and change, as when Romulus gazed thitherward over his
+     half-finished wall.
+
+     "In this chamber is the Faun of Praxiteles. It is the marble image
+     of a young man, leaning his right arm on the trunk or stump of a
+     tree: one hand hangs carelessly by his side, in the other he holds
+     a fragment of a pipe, or some such sylvan instrument of music. His
+     only garment, a lion's skin with the claws upon the shoulder, falls
+     half-way down his back, leaving his limbs and entire front of the
+     figure nude. The form, thus displayed, is marvellously graceful,
+     but has a fuller and more rounded outline, more flesh, and less of
+     heroic muscle, than the old sculptors were wont to assign to their
+     types of masculine beauty. The character of the face corresponds
+     with the figure; it is most agreeable in outline and feature, but
+     rounded and somewhat voluptuously developed, especially about the
+     throat and chin; the nose is almost straight, but very slightly
+     curves inward, thereby acquiring an indescribable charm of
+     geniality and humour. The mouth, with its full yet delicate lips,
+     seems so really to smile outright, that it calls forth a responsive
+     smile. The whole statue--unlike anything else that ever was wrought
+     in the severe material of marble--conveys the idea of an amiable
+     and sensual creature, easy, mirthful, apt for jollity, yet not
+     incapable of being touched by pathos. It is impossible to gaze long
+     at this stone image, without conceiving a kindly sentiment towards
+     it, as if its substance were warm to the touch, and imbued with
+     actual life. It comes very near to some of our pleasantest
+     sympathies."--_Hawthorne._
+
+     "Praxitèle avait dit à Phryné de choisir entre ses ouvrages celui
+     qu'elle aimerait le mieux. Pour savoir lequel de ses
+     chefs-d'oeuvre l'artiste préférait, elle lui fit annoncer que le
+     feu avait pris à son atelier. 'Sauvez, s'écria-t-il, mon Satyre et
+     mon Amour!'"--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 309.
+
+The west or right side of the Capitoline Piazza is occupied by _the
+Palace of the Conservators_, which contains the Protomoteca, the Picture
+Gallery, and various other treasures.
+
+The little court at the entrance is full of historical relics, including
+remains of two gigantic statues of Apollo; a colossal head of Domitian;
+and the marble pedestal, which once in the mausoleum of Augustus
+supported the cinerary urn of Agrippina, wife of Germanicus, with a very
+perfect inscription. In the opposite loggia are a statue of Rome
+Triumphant, and a group of a lion attacking a horse, found in the bed of
+the Almo. In the portico on the right is the only authentic statue of
+Julius Cæsar; on the left, a statue of Augustus, leaning against the
+rostrum of a galley, in allusion to the battle of Actium.
+
+_The Protomoteca_, a suite of eight rooms on the ground floor, contains
+a collection of busts of eminent Italians, with a few foreigners
+considered as naturalised by a long residence in Rome. Those in the
+second room, representing artists of the thirteenth, fourteenth, and
+fifteenth centuries, were entirely executed at the expense of Canova.
+
+At the foot of the staircase is a restoration by Michael Angelo of the
+column of Caius Duilius. On the upper flight of the staircase is a
+bas-relief of Curtius leaping into the gulf, here represented as a
+marsh.
+
+     "Un bas-relief d'un travail ancien, dont le style ressemble à celui
+     des figures peintes sur les vases dits archaïques, représente
+     Curtius engagé dans son marais; le cheval baisse la tête et flaire
+     le marécage, qui est indiqué par des roseaux. Le guerrier penché en
+     avant, presse sa monture. On a vivement, en présence de cette
+     curieuse sculpture, le sentiment d'un incident héroïque
+     probablement réel, et en même temps de l'aspect primitif du lieu
+     qui en fut témoin."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom. i. 321._
+
+On the first and second landings are magnificent reliefs, representing
+events in the life of Marcus Aurelius, Imp., belonging to the arch
+dedicated to him, which was wantonly destroyed, in order to widen the
+Corso, by Alexander VII.
+
+     "Jusqu'au lègne de Commode Rome est représentée par une Amazone;
+     dans l'escalier du palais des Conservateurs, Rome, en tunique
+     courte d'Amazone et le globe à la main, reçoit Marc Aurèle; le
+     globe dans la main de Rome date de César."--_Ampère_, iii. 242.
+
+_The Halls of the Conservators_ consist of eight rooms. The 1st, painted
+in fresco from the history of the Roman kings, by the _Cavaliere
+d'Arpino_, contains statues of Urban VIII., by Bernini; Leo X., by the
+Sicilian Giacomo della Duca;[41] and Innocent X., in bronze, by Algardi.
+The 2nd room, adorned with subjects from republican history by
+_Lauretti_, has statues of modern Roman generals--Marc Antonio Colonna,
+Tommaso Rospigliosi, Francesco Aldobrandini, Carlo Barberini, brother of
+Urban VIII., and Alessandro Farnese, Duke of Parma. The 3rd room,
+painted by _Daniele di Volterra_, with subjects from the wars with the
+Cimbri, contains the famous _Bronze Wolf of the Capitol_, one of the
+most interesting relics in the city. The figure of the wolf is of
+unknown antiquity; those of Romulus and Remus are modern. It has been
+doubted whether this is the wolf described by Dionysius as "an ancient
+work of brass" standing in the temple of Romulus under the Palatine, or
+the wolf described by Cicero, who speaks of a little gilt figure of the
+founder of the city sucking the teats of a wolf. The Ciceronian wolf was
+struck by lightning in the time of the great orator, and a fracture in
+the existing figure, attributed to lightning, is adduced in proof of its
+identity with it.
+
+              "Geminos huic ubera circum
+    Ludere pendentes pueros, et lambere matrem
+    Impavidos: illam tereti cervice reflexam
+    Mulcere alternos, et corpora fingere lingua."
+
+    _Virgil, Æn._ viii. 632.
+
+    "And thou, the thunder-stricken nurse of Rome!
+    She-wolf! whose brazen-imaged dugs impart
+    The milk of conquest yet within the dome
+    Where, as a monument of antique art,
+    Thou standest:--mother of the mighty heart,
+    Which the great founder sucked from thy wild teat,
+    Scorch'd by the Roman Jove's ethereal dart,
+    And thy limbs black with lightning--dost thou yet
+    Guard thy immortal cubs, nor thy fond charge forget?"
+
+    _Byron, Childe Harold._
+
+Standing near the wolf is the well-known and beautiful figure of a boy
+extracting a thorn from his foot, called the Shepherd Martius.
+
+     "La ressemblance du type si fin de l'Apollon au lézard et du
+     charmant bronze du Capitole _le tíreur d'épine_ est trop frappante
+     pour qu'on puisse se refuser à voir dans celui-ci une inspiration
+     de Praxitèle ou de son école. C'est tout simplement un enfant
+     arrachant de son pied une épine qui l'a blessé, sujet naïf et
+     champêtre analogue au Satyre se faisant rendre ce service par un
+     autre Satyre. On a voulu y voir un athlète blessé par une épine
+     pendant sa course et qui n'en est pas moins arrivé au but; mais la
+     figure est trop jeune et n'a rien d'athlétique. Le moyen âge avait
+     donné aussi son explication et inventé sa legende. On raccontait
+     qu'un jeune berger, envoyé à la découverte de l'ennemi, était
+     revenu sans s'arrêter et ne s'était permis qu'alors d'arracher une
+     épine qui lui blessait le pied. Le moyen âge avait senti le charme
+     de cette composition qu'il interprétait à sa manière, car elle est
+     sculptée sur un arceau de la cathédrale de Zurich qui date du
+     siècle de Charlemagne."--_Ampère_, iii. 315.
+
+Forming part of the decorations of this room are two fine pictures, a
+dead Christ with a monk praying, and Sta. Francesca Romana, by
+_Romanelli_. Near the door of exit is a bust said to be that of Junius
+Brutus.
+
+     "Il est permis de voir dans le buste du Capitole un vrai portrait
+     de Brutus; il est difficile d'en douter en le contemplant. Voilà
+     bien le visage farouche, la barbe _hirsute_, les cheveux roides
+     collés si rudement sur le front, la physiognomie inculte et
+     terrible du prémier consul romain; la bouche serrée respire la
+     détermination et l'énergie; les yeux, formés d'une matière
+     jaunâtre, se détachent en clair sur le bronze noirci par les
+     siècles et vous jettent un regard fixe et farouche. Tout près est
+     la louve de bronze. Brutus est de la même famille. On sent qu'il y
+     a du lait de cette louve dans les veines du second fondateur de
+     Rome, comme dans les veines du premier, et que lui aussi, pareil au
+     Romulus de la légende, marchera vers son but à travers le sang des
+     siens.
+
+     "Le buste de Brutus est placé sur un piédestal qui le met à la
+     hauteur du regard. Là, dans un coin sombre, j'ai passé bien des
+     moments face à face avec l'impitoyable fondateur de la liberté
+     romaine."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ ii. 270.
+
+The 4th Room contains the _Fasti Consulares_, tables found near the
+temple of Minerva Chalcidica, and inscribed with the names of public
+officers from Romulus to Augustus. The 5th Room contains two bronze
+ducks (formerly shown as the sacred geese of the Capitol) and a female
+head--found in the gardens of Sallust, a bust of Medusa, by _Bernini_,
+and many others. The 6th, or Throne Room, hung with faded tapestry, has
+a frieze in fresco, by _Annibale Caracci_, representing the triumphs of
+Scipio Africanus. The 7th Room is painted by _Daniele da Volterra_(?)
+with the history of the Punic Wars. The 8th Room (now used as a passage)
+is a chapel, containing a lovely fresco, by _Pinturicchio_, of the
+Madonna and Child with Angels.
+
+     "The Madonna is seated enthroned, fronting the spectator; her large
+     mantle forms a grand cast of drapery; the child on her lap sleeps
+     in the loveliest attitude; she folds her hands and looks down,
+     quiet, serious, and beautiful: in the clouds are two adoring
+     angels."--_Kugler._
+
+The four Evangelists are by _Caravaggio_; the pictures of Roman saints
+(Cecilia, Alexis, Eustachio, Francesca-Romana), by _Romanelli_.
+
+By the same staircase, passing on the left a wonderful relief of the
+apotheosis of the wicked Faustina, we may arrive at the _Picture Gallery
+of the Capitol_ (which can also be approached by a separate staircase,
+entered from an alley at the back of the building), reached by two rooms
+inscribed with the names of the Roman Conservators from the middle of
+the sixteenth century. This gallery contains very few first-rate
+pictures, but has a beautiful St. Sebastian, by Guido, and several fine
+works of _Guercino_. The most noticeable pictures are--
+
+_1st Room._--
+
+     2. Disembodied Spirit (unfinished): _Guido Reni_.
+    13. St. John Baptist: _Guercino_.
+    16. Mary Magdalene: _Guido Reni_.
+    20. The Cumæan Sibyl: _Domenichino_.
+    26. Mary Magdalene: _Tintoretto_.
+    27. Presentation in the Temple: _Fra. Bartolomeo_.
+    30. Holy Family: _Garofalo_.
+    52. Madonna and Saints: _Botticelli?_
+    61. Portrait of himself: _Guido Reni_.
+    78. Madonna and Saints: _F. Francia_, 1513.
+    80. Portrait: _Velasquez_.
+    87. St. Augustine: _Giovanni Bellini_.
+    89. Romulus and Remus: _Rubens_.
+
+_2nd Room._--
+
+    100. Two male portraits: _Vandyke_.
+    104. Adoration of the Shepherds: _Mazzolino_.
+    106. Two Portraits: _Vandyke_.
+    116. St. Sebastian: _Guido Reni_.
+    117. Cleopatra and Augustus: _Guercino_.
+    119. St. Sebastian: _Lud. Caracci_.
+    128. Gipsy telling a fortune: _Caravaggio_.
+    132. Portrait: _Giovanni Bellini_.
+    134. Portrait of Michael Angelo: _M. Venusti?_
+    136. Petrarch: _Gio. Bellini?_
+    142. Nativity of the Virgin: _Albani_.
+    143. Sta. Petronilla: _Guercino_. An enormous picture, brought hither
+         from St. Peter's, where it has been replaced by a mosaic copy. The
+         composition is divided into two parts. The lower represents the
+         burial of Sta. Petronilla, the upper the ascension of her spirit.
+
+"The Apostle Peter had a daughter, born in lawful wedlock, who
+accompanied him in his journey from the East. Petronilla was wonderfully
+fair; and Valerius Flaccus, a young and noble Roman, who was a heathen,
+became enamoured of her beauty, and sought her for his wife; and he,
+being very powerful, she feared to refuse him; she therefore desired him
+to return in three days, and promised that he should then carry her
+home. But she prayed earnestly to be delivered from this peril; and when
+Flaccus returned in three days, with great pomp, to celebrate the
+marriage, he found her dead. The company of nobles who attended him,
+carried her to the grave, in which they laid her, crowned with roses;
+and Flaccus lamented greatly."--_Mrs. Jameson, from the Perfetto
+Legendario._
+
+199. Death and Assumption of the Virgin: _Cola della Matrice_.
+
+"Here the death of the Virgin is treated at once in a mystical and
+dramatic style. Enveloped in a dark blue mantle, spangled with golden
+stars, she lies extended on a couch; St. Peter, in a splendid scarlet
+cope as bishop, reads the service; St. John, holding the palm, weeps
+bitterly. In front, and kneeling before the couch or bier, appear the
+three great Dominican saints as witnesses of the religious mystery; in
+the centre St. Dominic; on the left, St. Catherine of Siena; and on the
+right, St. Thomas Aquinas. In a compartment above is the
+Assumption."--_Jameson's Legends of the Madonna_, p. 315.
+
+    123. Virgin and Angels: _Paul Veronese_.
+    124. Rape of Europa: _Paul Veronese_.
+
+At the head of the Capitol steps, to the right of the terrace, is the
+entrance to the _Palazzo Caffarelli_, the residence of the Prussian
+minister. It has a small but beautiful garden, and the view from the
+windows is magnificent.
+
+     "After dinner, Bunsen called for us, and took us first to his house
+     on the Capitol, the different windows of which command the
+     different views of ancient and modern Rome. Never shall I forget
+     the view of the former; we looked down on the Forum, and just
+     opposite were the Palatine and the Aventine, with the ruins of the
+     Palace of the Cæsars on the one, and houses intermixed with gardens
+     on the other. The mass of the Coliseum rose beyond the Forum, and
+     beyond all, the wide plain of the Campagna to the sea. On the left
+     rose the Alban hills, bright in the setting sun, which played full
+     upon Frescati and Albano, and the trees which edge the lake, and
+     further away in the distance, it lit up the old town of
+     Labicum."--_Arnold's Letters._
+
+From the further end of the courtyard of the Caffarelli Palace one can
+look down upon part of the bare cliff of the Rupe Tarpeia. Here there
+existed till 1868 a small court, which is represented as the scene of
+the murder in Hawthorne's Marble Faun, or "Transformation." The door,
+the niche in the wall, and all other details mentioned in the novel,
+were realities. The character of the place is now changed by the removal
+of the boundary-wall. The part of the rock seen from here is that
+usually visited from below by the Via Tor de' Specchi.
+
+To reach the principal portion of the south-eastern height of the
+Capitol, we must ascend the staircase beyond the Palace of the
+Conservators, on the right. Here we shall find ourselves upon the
+highest part of
+
+              "The Tarpeian rock, the citadel
+    Of great and glorious Rome, queen of the earth,
+    So far renown'd, and with the spoils enriched
+    Of nations."
+          _Paradise Regained._
+
+                          "The steep
+    Tarpeian, fittest goal of treason's race,
+    The promontory whence the traitor's leap
+    Cured all ambition."
+         _Childe Harold._
+
+The dirty lane, with its shabby houses, and grass-grown spaces, and
+filthy children, has little to remind one of the appearance of the hill
+as seen by Virgil and Propertius, who speak of the change in their time
+from an earlier aspect.
+
+    "Hinc ad Tarpeiam sedem, et Capitolia ducit,
+    Aurea nunc, olim, silvestribus horrida dumis,
+    Jam tum religio pavidos terrebat agrestes
+    Dira loci; jam tum silvam saxumque tremebant."
+                _Virgil, Æn._ viii. 347.
+
+    "Hoc quodcumque vides, hospes, qua maxima Roma est,
+    Ante Phrygem Aeneam collis et herba fuit."
+                _Propertius_, iv. eleg. I.
+
+It was on this side that the different attacks were made upon the
+Capitol. The first was by the Sabine Herdonius at the head of a band of
+slaves, who scaled the heights and surprised the garrison, in B.C. 460,
+and from the heights of the citadel proclaimed freedom to all slaves who
+should join him, with abolition of debts, and defence of the plebs from
+their oppressors; but his offers were disregarded, and on the fourth day
+the Capitol was re-taken, and he was slain with nearly all his
+followers. The second attack was by the Gauls, who, according to the
+well-known story, climbed the rock near the Porta Carmentale, and had
+nearly reached the summit unobserved--for the dogs neglected to
+bark--when the cries of the sacred geese of Juno aroused an officer
+named Manlius, who rushed to the defence, and hurled over the precipice
+the first assailant, who dragged down others in his fall, and thus the
+Capitol was saved. In remembrance of this incident, a goose was
+annually carried in triumph, and a dog annually crucified upon the
+Capitol, between the temple of Summanus and that of Youth.[42] This was
+the same Manlius, the friend of the people, who was afterwards condemned
+by the patricians on pretext that he wished to make himself king, and
+thrown from the Tarpeian rock, on the same spot, in sight of the Forum,
+where Spurius Cassius, an ex-consul, had been thrown down before. To
+visit the part of the rock from which these executions must have taken
+place, it is necessary to enter a little garden near the German
+Hospital, whence there is a beautiful view of the river and the
+Aventine.
+
+     "Quand on veut visiter la roche Tarpéienne, on sonne à une porte de
+     peu d'apparence, sur laquelle sont écrits ces mots: _Rocca
+     Tarpeia_. Une pauvre femme arrive et vous mène dans un carré de
+     choux. C'est de là qu'on précipita Manlius. Je serais desolé que le
+     carré de choux manquât."--_Ampère, Portraits de Rome._
+
+This side of the Intermontium is now generally known as _Monte Caprino_,
+a name which Ampère derives from the fact that Vejovis, the Etruscan
+ideal of Jupiter, was always represented with a goat.[43] On this side
+of the hill, the viaduct from the Palatine, built by Caligula (who
+affected to require it to facilitate communication with his friend
+Jupiter), joined the Capitoline.
+
+We have still to examine the north-eastern height, the site of the most
+interesting of pagan temples, now occupied by one of the most
+interesting of Christian churches. The name of the famous _Church of
+Ara-Coeli_ is generally attributed to an altar erected by Augustus to
+commemorate the Delphic oracle respecting the coming of our Saviour,
+which is still recognised in the well-known hymn of the Church:
+
+    Teste David cum Sibylla.[44]
+
+The altar bore the inscription "Ara Primogeniti Dei." Those who seek a
+more humble origin for the church, say that the name merely dates from
+mediæval times, when it was called "Sta, Maria in Aurocoelio." It
+originally belonged to the Benedictine Order, but was transferred to the
+Franciscans by Innocent IV. in 1252, since which time its convent has
+occupied an important position as the residence of the General of the
+Minor Franciscans (Grey-friars), and is the centre of religious life in
+that Order.
+
+The staircase on the left of the Senators' palace, which leads to the
+side entrance of Ara-Coeli, is in itself full of historical
+associations. It was at its head that Valerius the consul was killed in
+the conflict with Herdonius for the possession of the Capitol. It was
+down the ancient steps on this site that Annius, the envoy of the
+Latins, fell (B.C. 340), and was nearly killed, after his audacious
+proposition in the temple of Jupiter, that the Latins and Romans should
+become one nation, and have a common senate and consuls. Here also,[45]
+in B.C. 133, Tiberius Gracchus was knocked down with the leg of a chair,
+and killed in front of the temple of Jupiter.
+
+It is at the top of these steps, that the monks of Ara-Coeli, who are
+celebrated as dentists, perform their hideous, but useful and gratuitous
+operations, which may be witnessed here every morning!
+
+Over the side entrance of Ara-Coeli is a beautiful mosaic of the
+Virgin and Child. This, with the ancient brick arches above, framing
+fragments of deep blue sky--and the worn steps below--forms a subject
+dear to Roman artists, and is often introduced as a background to groups
+of monks and peasants. The interior of the church is vast, solemn, and
+highly picturesque. It was here, as Gibbon himself tells us, that on the
+15th of October, 1764, as he sat musing amidst the ruins of the Capitol,
+while the bare-footed friars were singing vespers, the idea of writing
+the "Decline and Fall" of the city first started to his mind.
+
+     "As we lift the great curtain and push into the church, a faint
+     perfume of incense salutes the nostrils. The golden sunset bursts
+     in as the curtain of the (west) door sways forward, illuminates the
+     mosaic floor, catches on the rich golden ceiling, and flashes here
+     and there over the crowd (gathered in Epiphany), on some brilliant
+     costume or closely shaven head. All sorts of people are thronging
+     there, some kneeling before the shrine of the Madonna, which gleams
+     with its hundreds of silver votive hearts, legs, and arms, some
+     listening to the preaching, some crowding round the chapel of the
+     _Presepio_. Old women, haggard and wrinkled, come tottering along
+     with their _scaldini_ of coals, drop down on their knees to pray,
+     and, as you pass, interpolate in their prayers a parenthesis of
+     begging. The church is not architecturally handsome, but it is
+     eminently picturesque, with its relics of centuries, its mosaic
+     pulpits and floors, its frescoes of Pinturicchio and Pesaro, its
+     antique columns, its rich golden ceiling, its gothic mausoleum to
+     the Savelli, and its mediæval tombs. A dim, dingy look is over
+     all--but it is the dimness of faded splendour; and one cannot stand
+     there, knowing the history of the church, its great antiquity, and
+     the varied fortunes it has known, without a peculiar sense of
+     interest and pleasure.
+
+     "It was here that Romulus in the grey dawning of Rome built the
+     temple of Jupiter Feretrius. Here the _spolia opima_ were
+     deposited. Here the triumphal processions of the emperors and
+     generals ended. Here the victors paused before making their vows,
+     until, from the Mamertine prisons below, the message came to
+     announce that their noblest prisoner and victim--while the clang of
+     their triumph and his defeat rose ringing in his ears, as the
+     procession ascended the steps--had expiated with death the crime of
+     being the enemy of Rome. On the steps of Ara-Coeli, nineteen
+     centuries ago, the first great Cæsar climbed on his knees after
+     his first triumph. At their base, Rienzi, the last of the Roman
+     tribunes, fell--and if the tradition of the Church is to be
+     trusted, it was on the site of the present high altar that Augustus
+     erected the 'Ara Primogeniti Dei,' to commemorate the Delphic
+     prophecy of the coming of our Saviour. Standing on a spot so
+     thronged with memories, the dullest imagination takes fire. The
+     forms and scenes of the past rise from their graves and pass before
+     us, and the actual and visionary are mingled together in strange
+     poetic confusion."--_Roba di Roma_, i. 73.
+
+The floor of the church is of the ancient mosaic known as Opus
+Alexandrinum. The nave is separated from the aisles by twenty-two
+ancient columns, of which two are of cipollino, two of white marble, and
+eighteen of Egyptian granite. They are of very different forms and
+sizes, and have probably been collected from various pagan edifices. The
+inscription "A Cubiculo Augustorum" upon the third column on the left of
+the nave, shows that it was brought from the Palace of the Cæsars. The
+windows in this church are amongst the few in Rome which show traces of
+gothic. At the end of the nave, on either side, are two ambones, marking
+the position of the choir before it was extended to its present site in
+the sixteenth century.
+
+The transepts are full of interesting monuments. That on the right is
+the burial-place of the great family of Savelli, and contains--on the
+left, the monument of Luca Savelli, 1266 (father of Pope Honorius IV.)
+and his son Pandolfo,--an ancient and richly sculptured sarcophagus, to
+which a gothic canopy was added by _Agostino_ and _Agnolo da Siena_ from
+designs of Giotto. Opposite, is the tomb of the mother of Honorius, Vana
+Aldobrandesca, upon which is the statue of the pope himself, removed
+from his monument in the old St. Peter's by Paul III.
+
+On the left of the high altar is the tomb of Cardinal Gianbattista
+Savelli, ob. 1498, and near it--in the pavement, the half-effaced
+gravestone of Sigismondo Conti, whose features are so familiar to us
+from his portrait introduced into the famous picture of the Madonna di
+Foligno, which was painted by Raphael at his order, and presented by him
+to this church, where it remained over the high altar, till 1565, when
+his great niece Anna became a nun at the convent of the Contesse at
+Foligno, and was allowed to carry it away with her. In the east transept
+is another fine gothic tomb, that of Cardinal Matteo di Acquasparta
+(1302), a General of the Franciscans mentioned by Dante for his wise and
+moderate rule.[46] The quaint chapel in the middle of this transept, now
+dedicated to St. Helena, is supposed to occupy the site of the "Ara
+Primogeniti Dei."
+
+Upon the pier near the ambone of the gospel is the monument of Queen
+Catherine of Bosnia, who died at Rome in 1478, bequeathing her states to
+the Roman Church on condition of their reversion to her son, who had
+embraced Mahommedanism, if he should return to the Catholic faith. Near
+this, upon the transept wall, is the tomb of Felice de Fredis, ob. 1529,
+upon which it is recorded that he was the finder of the Laocoon. The
+Chapel of the Annunciation, opening from the west isle, has a tomb to G.
+Crivelli, by Donatello, bearing his signature, "Opus Donatelli
+Florentini." The Chapel of Santa Croce is the burial-place of the
+Ponziani family, and was the scene of the celebrated ecstasy of the
+favourite Roman saint Francesca Romana.
+
+     "The mortal remains of Vanozza Ponziani (sister-in-law of
+     Francesca) were laid in the church of Ara-Coeli, in the chapel of
+     Santa Croce. The Roman people resorted there in crowds to behold
+     once more their loved benefactress--the mother of the poor, the
+     consoler of the afflicted. All strove to carry away some little
+     memorial of one who had gone about among them doing good, and
+     during the three days which preceded the interment, the concourse
+     did not abate. On the day of the funeral Francesca knelt on one
+     side of the coffin, and, in sight of all the crowd, she was wrapped
+     in ecstasy. They saw her body lifted from the ground, and a
+     seraphic expression in her uplifted face. They heard her murmur
+     several times with an indescribable emphasis the word 'Quando?
+     Quando?' When all was over, she still remained immoveable; it
+     seemed as if her soul had risen on the wings of prayer, and
+     followed Vanozza's spirit into the realms of bliss. At last her
+     confessor ordered her to rise and go and attend on the sick. She
+     instantly complied, and walked away to the hospital which she had
+     founded, apparently unconscious of everything about her, and only
+     roused from her trance by the habit of obedience, which, in or out
+     of ecstasy, never forsook her."--_Lady Georgiana Fullerton's Life
+     of Sta. Fr. Romana._
+
+There are several good pictures over the altars in the aisles of
+Ara-Coeli. In the Chapel of St Margaret of Cortona are frescoes
+illustrative of her life by _Filippo Evangelisti_,--in that of S.
+Antonio, frescoes by _Nicola da Pesaro_;--but no one should omit
+visiting the first chapel on the right of the west door, dedicated to S.
+Bernardino of Siena, and painted by _Bernardino Pinturicchio_, who has
+put forth his best powers to do honour to his patron saint with a series
+of exquisite frescoes, representing his assuming the monastic habit, his
+preaching, his vision of the Saviour, his penitence, death, and burial.
+
+Almost opposite this--closed except during Epiphany--is the Chapel of
+the _Presepio_, where the famous image of the _Santissimo Bambino d'Ara
+Coeli_ is shown at that season lying in a manger.
+
+     "The simple meaning of the term _Presepio_ is a manger; but it is
+     also used in the Church to signify a representation of the birth of
+     Christ. In the Ara-Coeli the whole of one of the side-chapels is
+     devoted to this exhibition. In the foreground is a grotto, in which
+     is seated the Virgin Mary, with Joseph at her side and the
+     miraculous Bambino in her lap. Immediately behind are an ass and an
+     ox. On one side kneel the shepherds and kings in adoration; and
+     above, God the Father is seen surrounded by crowds of cherubs and
+     angels playing on instruments, as in the early pictures of Raphael.
+     In the background is a scenic representation of a pastoral
+     landscape, on which all the skill of the scene-painter is expended.
+     Shepherds guard their flocks far away, reposing under palm-trees or
+     standing on green slopes which glow in the sunshine. The distances
+     and perspective are admirable. In the middle ground is a crystal
+     fountain of glass, near which sheep, preternaturally white, and
+     made of real wool and cotton wool, are feeding, tended by figures
+     of shepherds carved in wood. Still nearer come women bearing great
+     baskets of real oranges and other fruits on their heads. All the
+     nearer figures are full-sized, carved in wood, painted, and dressed
+     in appropriate robes. The miraculous Bambino is a painted doll
+     swaddled in a white dress, which is crusted over with magnificent
+     diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. The Virgin also wears in her ears
+     superb diamond pendants. The general effect of the scenic show is
+     admirable, and crowds flock to it and press about it all day long.
+
+     "While this is taking place on one side of the church, on the other
+     is a very different and quite as singular an exhibition. Around one
+     of the antique columns a stage is erected, from which little
+     maidens are reciting, with every kind of pretty gesticulation,
+     sermons, dialogues, and little speeches, in explanation of the
+     _Presepio_ opposite. Sometimes two of them are engaged in alternate
+     questions and answers about the mysteries of the Incarnation and
+     the Redemption. Sometimes the recitation is a piteous description
+     of the agony of the Saviour and the sufferings of the Madonna, the
+     greatest stress being, however, always laid upon the latter. All
+     these little speeches have been written for them by their priest or
+     some religious friend, committed to memory, and practised with
+     appropriate gestures over and over again at home. Their little
+     piping voices are sometimes guilty of such comic breaks and
+     changes, that the crowd about them rustles into a murmurous
+     laughter. Sometimes, also, one of the little preachers has a
+     _dispetto_, pouts, shakes her shoulders, and refuses to go on with
+     her part; another, however, always stands ready on the platform to
+     supply the vacancy, until friends have coaxed, reasoned, or
+     threatened the little pouter into obedience. These children are
+     often very beautiful and graceful, and their comical little
+     gestures and intonations, their clasping of hands and rolling up of
+     eyes, have a very amusing and interesting effect."--_Story's Roba
+     di Roma._
+
+At other times the Bambino dwells in the inner Sacristy, where it can be
+visited by admiring pilgrims. It is a fresh-coloured doll, tightly
+swathed in gold and silver tissue, crowned, and sparkling with jewels.
+It has servants of its own, and a carriage in which it drives out with
+its attendants, and goes to visit the sick. Devout peasants always kneel
+as the blessed infant passes. Formerly it was taken to sick persons and
+left on their beds for some hours, in the hope that it would work a
+miracle. Now it is never left alone. In explanation of this, it is said
+that an audacious woman formed the design of appropriating to herself
+the holy image and its benefits. She had another doll prepared of the
+same size and appearance as the "Santissimo," and having feigned
+sickness, and obtained permission to have it left with her, she dressed
+the false image in its clothes, and sent it back to Ara-Coeli. The
+fraud was not discovered till night, when the Franciscan monks were
+awakened by the most furious ringing of bells and by thundering knocks
+at the west door of the church, and hastening thither could see nothing
+but a wee naked pink foot peeping in from under the door; but when they
+opened the door, without stood the little naked figure of the true
+Bambino of Ara-Coeli, shivering in the wind and the rain,--so the
+false baby was sent back in disgrace, and the real baby restored to its
+home, never to be trusted away alone any more.
+
+In the sacristy is the following inscription relating to the Bambino:--
+
+     "Ad hoc sacellum Ara Coeli a festo nativitatis domini usque ad
+     festum Epiphaniæ magna populi frequentia invisitur et colitur in
+     presepio Christi nati infantuli simulacrum ex oleæ ligno apud
+     montem olivarum Hierosolymis a quodam devoto Minorita sculptum eo
+     animo, ut ad hoc festum celebrandum deportaretur. De quo in primis
+     hoc accidit, quod deficiente colore inter barbaras gentes ad
+     plenam infantuli figurationem et formam, devotus et anxius artifex,
+     professione laicus, precibus et orationibus impetravit, ut sacrum
+     simulacrum divinitus carneo colore perfunctum reperiretur. Cumque
+     navi Italiam veheretur, facto naufragio apud Tusciæ oras, simulacri
+     capsa Liburnum appulit. Ex quo, recognita, expectabatur, enim a
+     Fratribus, et jam fama illius a Hierosolymis ad nostras familiæ
+     partes advenerat, ad destinatam sibi Capitolii sedem devenit.
+     Fertur etiam, quod aliquando ex nimia devotione à quadam devota
+     foemina sublatum ad suas ædes miraculosè remeaverit. Quapropter
+     in maxima veneratione semper est habitum a Romanis civibus, et
+     universo populo donatum monilibus, et jocalibus pretiosis,
+     liberalioribusque in dies prosequitur oblationibus."
+
+The outer Sacristy contains a fine picture of the Holy Family by _Giulio
+Romano_.
+
+The scene on the long flight of steps which leads to the west door of
+Ara-Coeli is very curious during Epiphany.
+
+     "If any one visit the Ara-Coeli during an afternoon in Christmas
+     or Epiphany, the scene is very striking. The flight of one hundred
+     and twenty-four steps is then thronged by merchants of Madonna
+     wares, who spread them out over the steps and hang them against the
+     walls and balustrades. Here are to be seen all sorts of curious
+     little coloured prints of the Madonna and Child of the most
+     extraordinary quality, little bags, pewter medals, and crosses
+     stamped with the same figures and to be worn on the neck--all
+     offered at once for the sum of one _baiocco_. Here also are framed
+     pictures of the saints, of the Nativity, and in a word of all sorts
+     of religious subjects appertaining to the season. Little wax dolls,
+     clad in cotton-wool to represent the Saviour, and sheep made of the
+     same materials, are also sold by the basket-full. Children and
+     _Contadini_ are busy buying them, and there is a deafening roar all
+     up and down the steps, of 'Mezzo baiocco, bello colorito, mezzo
+     baiocco, la Santissima Concezione Incoronata,'--'Diario Romano,
+     Lunario Romano nuovo,'--'Ritratto colorito, medaglia e quadruccio,
+     un baiocco tutti, un baiocco tutti,'--'Bambinella di cera, un
+     baiocco.' None of the prices are higher than one baiocco, except to
+     strangers, and generally several articles are held up together,
+     enumerated, and proffered with a loud voice for this sum. Meanwhile
+     men, women, children, priests, beggars, soldiers, and _villani_ are
+     crowding up and down, and we crowd with them."--_Roba di Roma_, i.
+     72.
+
+     "On the sixth of January the lofty steps of Ara-Coeli looked like
+     an ant-hill, so thronged were they with people. Men and boys who
+     sold little books (legends and prayers), rosaries, pictures of
+     saints, medallions, chestnuts, oranges, and other things, shouted
+     and made a great noise. Little boys and girls were still preaching
+     zealously in the church, and people of all classes were crowding
+     thither. Processions advanced with the thundering cheerful music of
+     the fire-corps. Il Bambino, a painted image of wood, covered with
+     jewels, and with a yellow crown on its head, was carried by a monk
+     in white gloves, and exhibited to the people from a kind of
+     altar-like erection at the top of the Ara-Coeli steps. Everybody
+     dropped down upon their knees; Il Bambino was shown on all sides,
+     the music thundered, and the smoking censers were
+     swung."--_Frederika Bremer._
+
+The _Convent of Ara-Coeli_ contains much that is picturesque and
+interesting. S. Giovanni Capistrano was abbot here in the reign of
+Eugenius IV.
+
+Let us now descend from the Capitoline Piazza towards the Forum, by the
+staircase on the left of the Palace of the Senator. Close to the foot of
+this staircase is a church, very obscure-looking, with some rude
+frescoes on the exterior. Yet every one must enter this building, for
+here are the famous _Mamertine Prisons_, excavated from the solid rock
+under the Capitol.
+
+The prisons are entered through the low Church of S. Pietro in Carcere,
+hung round with votive offerings and blazing with lamps.
+
+     "There is an upper chamber in the Mamertine Prisons, over what is
+     said to have been--and very possibly may have been--the dungeon of
+     St. Peter. The chamber is now fitted up as an oratory, dedicated to
+     that saint; and it lives, as a distinct and separate place, in my
+     recollection, too. It is very small and low-roofed; and the dread
+     and gloom of the ponderous, obdurate old prison are on it, as if
+     they had come up in a dark mist through the floor. Hanging on the
+     walls, among the clustered votive offerings, are objects, at once
+     strangely in keeping and strangely at variance with the
+     place--rusty daggers, knives, pistols, clubs, divers instruments of
+     violence and murder, brought here, fresh from use, and hung up to
+     propitiate offended Heaven; as if the blood upon them would drain
+     off in consecrated air, and have no voice to cry with. It is all so
+     silent and so close, and tomblike; and the dungeons below are so
+     black, and stealthy, and stagnant, and naked; that this little dark
+     spot becomes a dream within a dream: and in the vision of great
+     churches which come rolling past me like a sea, it is a small wave
+     by itself, that melts into no other wave, and does not flow on with
+     the rest."--_Dickens._
+
+Enclosed in the church, near the entrance, may be observed the outer
+frieze of the prison wall, with the inscription C. TIBIUS. C. F.
+RUFINUS. M.. COCCEIUS. NERVA. COS. EX. S. C., recording the names of two
+consuls of A.D. 22, who are supposed to have repaired the prison.
+Juvenal's description of the time when one prison was sufficient for all
+the criminals in Rome naturally refers to this building:
+
+    "Felices proavorum atavos, felicia dicas
+    Sæcula, quæ quondam sub regibus atque tribunis
+    Viderunt uno contentam carcere Romam."
+
+    _Sat._ iii. 312.
+
+A modern staircase leads to the horrible dungeon of Ancus Martius,
+sixteen feet in height, thirty in length, and twenty-two in breadth.
+Originally there was no staircase, and the prisoners were let down
+there, and thence into the lower dungeon, through a hole in the middle
+of the ceiling. The large door at the side is a modern innovation,
+having been opened to admit the vast mass of pilgrims during the festa.
+The whole prison is constructed of huge blocks of tufa without cement.
+Some remains are shown of the _Scalæ Gemoniæ_, so called from the groans
+of the prisoners--by which the bodies were dragged forth to be exposed
+to the insults of the populace or to be thrown into the Tiber. It was by
+this staircase that Cicero came forth and announced the execution of
+the Catiline conspirators to the people in the Forum, by the single word
+_Vixerunt_, "they have ceased to live." Close to the exit of these
+stairs the Emperor Vitellius was murdered. On the wall by which you
+descend to the lower dungeon is a mark, kissed by the faithful, as the
+spot against which St. Peter's head rested. The lower prison, called
+_Robur_, is constructed of huge blocks of tufa, fastened together by
+cramps of iron and approaching horizontally to a common centre in the
+roof. It has been attributed from early times to Servius Tullius; but
+Ampère[47] argues against the idea that the lower prison was of later
+origin than the upper, and suggests that it is Pelasgic, and older than
+any other building in Rome. It is described by Livy, and by Sallust, who
+depicts its horrors in his account of the execution of the Catiline
+conspirators.[48] The spot is shown to which these victims were attached
+and strangled in turn. In this dungeon, at an earlier period, Appius
+Claudius and Oppius the decemvirs committed suicide (B.C. 449). Here
+Jugurtha, king of Mauritania, was starved to death by Marius. Here
+Julius Cæsar, during his triumph for the conquest of Gaul, caused his
+gallant enemy Vercingetorix to be put to death. Here Sejanus, the friend
+and minister of Tiberius, disgraced too late, was executed for the
+murder of Drusus, son of the emperor, and for an intrigue with his
+daughter-in-law, Livilla. Here, also, Simon Bar-Gioras, the last
+defender of Jerusalem, suffered during the triumph of Titus.
+
+The spot is more interesting to the Christian world as the prison of SS.
+Peter and Paul, who are said to have been bound for nine months to a
+pillar, which is shown here. A fountain of excellent water, beneath the
+floor of the prison, is attributed to the prayers of St. Peter, that he
+might have wherewith to baptize his gaolers, Processus and Martinianus;
+but, unfortunately for this ecclesiastical tradition, the fountain is
+described by Plutarch as having existed at the time of Jugurtha's
+imprisonment This fountain probably gave the dungeon the name of
+_Tullianum_, by which it was sometimes known, _tullius_ meaning a
+spring.[49] This name probably gave rise to the idea of its connection
+with Servius Tullius.
+
+It is hence that the Roman Catholic Church believes that St. Peter and
+St Paul addressed their farewells to the Christian world.
+
+     That of St. Peter:--
+
+     "Shortly I must put off this my tabernacle, even as our Lord Jesus
+     Christ hath showed me. Moreover I will endeavour that ye may be
+     able after my decease to have these things always in remembrance.
+     For we have not followed cunningly devised fables, when we made
+     known to you the power and coming of our Lord Jesus Christ....
+     Nevertheless we, according to his promise, look for new heavens and
+     a new earth, wherein dwelleth righteousness."--_2nd St. Peter._
+
+     That of St. Paul:--
+
+     "God hath not given us a spirit of fear.... Be not thou, therefore,
+     ashamed of the testimony of our Lord, nor of me his prisoner; but
+     be thou partaker of the afflictions of the gospel according to the
+     power of God.... I suffer trouble as an evil doer, even unto bonds;
+     but the word of God is not bound. Therefore I endure all things,
+     for the elect's sake, that they also may obtain the salvation which
+     is in Christ Jesus.... I charge thee by God and by the Lord Jesus
+     Christ, who shall judge the quick and the dead ... preach the
+     word; be instant in season, out of season; reprove, rebuke, exhort
+     with all long-suffering and doctrine; ... watch in all things,
+     endure afflictions, do the work of an evangelist, make full proof
+     of thy ministry. For I am now ready to be offered, and the time of
+     my departure is at hand. I have fought a good fight, I have
+     finished my course, I have kept the faith."--_2nd Timothy._
+
+On July 4, the prisons are the scene of a picturesque solemnity, when
+they are visited at night by the religious confraternities, who first
+kneel and then prostrate themselves in silent devotion.
+
+Above the Church of S. Pietro in Carcere, is that of _S. Giuseppe del
+Falegnami_, St. Joseph of the Carpenters.
+
+     "Pourquoi les guides et les antiquaires qui nous ont si souvent
+     montré la voie triomphale qui mène au Capitale et nous en ont tant
+     de fois énuméré les souvenirs; pourquoi aucun d'eux ne nous a-t-il
+     jamais parlé de ce qui survint le jour du triomphe de Titus,
+     là-bas, près des prisons Mamertines? Laisse-moi vous rappeler que
+     ce jour-là le triomphateur, au moment de monter au temple, devant
+     verser le sang d'une victime, s'arrêta à cette place, tandis que
+     l'on détachait de son cortége un captif de plus haute taille et
+     plus richement vêtu que les autres, et qu'on l'emmenait dans cette
+     prison pour y achever son supplice avec le lacet même qu'il portait
+     autour du cou. Ce ne fût qu'après cette immolation que le cortége
+     reprit sa marche et acheva de monter jusqu'au Capitole! Ce captif
+     dont on ne daigne nous parler, c'était Simon Bar-Gioras; c'était un
+     des trois derniers défenseurs de Jérusalem; c'était un de ceux qui
+     la défendirent jusqu'au bout, mais hélas! qui la défendirent comme
+     des démons maîtres d'une âme de laquelle ils ne veulent pas se
+     laisser chasser, et non point comme des champions héroïques d'une
+     cause sacrée et perdue. Aussi cette grandeur que la seule infortune
+     suffit souvent pour donner, elle manque à la calamité la plus
+     grande que le monde ait vue, et les noms attachés à cette immense
+     catastrophe ne demeurèrent pas même fameux! Jean de Giscala,
+     Eléazar, Simon Bar-Gioras; qui pense à eux aujourd'hui? L'univers
+     entier proclame et vénère les noms de deux pauvres juifs qui,
+     quatre ans auparavant, dans cette même prison, avaient eux aussi
+     attendu la supplice; mais le malheur, le courage, la mort tragique
+     des autres, ne leur ont point donné la gloire, et un dédaigneux
+     oubli les a effacés de la mémoire des hommes!"--_(Anne Severin)
+     Mrs. Augustus Craven._
+
+                        "Along the sacred way
+    Hither the triumph came, and, winding round
+    With acclamation, and the martial clang
+    Of instruments, and cars laden with spoil,
+    Stopped at the sacred stair that then appeared,
+    Then thro' the darkness broke, ample, star-bright,
+    As tho' it led to heaven. 'Twas night; but now
+    A thousand torches, turning night to day,
+    Blazed, and the victor, springing from his seat,
+    Went up, and, kneeling as in fervent prayer,
+    Entered the Capitol. But what are they
+    Who at the foot withdraw, a mournful train
+    In fetters? And who, yet incredulous,
+    Now gazing wildly round, now on his sons,
+    On those so young, well pleased with all they see,
+    Staggers along, the last? They are the fallen,
+    Those who were spared to grace the chariot-wheels;
+    And there they parted, where the road divides,
+    The victor and the vanquished--there withdrew;
+    He to the festal board, and they to die.
+      "Well might the great, the mighty of the world,
+    They who were wont to fare deliciously
+    And war but for a kingdom more or less,
+    Shrink back, nor from their thrones endure to look,
+    To think that way! Well might they in their pomp
+    Humble themselves, and kneel and supplicate
+    To be delivered from a dream like this!"
+
+    _Rogers' Italy._
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+THE FORUMS AND THE COLISEUM.
+
+     Forum of Trajan--(Sta. Maria di Loreto)--Temple of Mars
+     Ultor--Forum of Augustus--Forum of Nerva--Forum of Julius
+     Cæsar--(Academy of St. Luke)--Forum Romanum--Tribune--Comitium
+     --Vulcanal--Temple of Concord--Temple of Vespasian--Temple of
+     Saturn--Arch of Septimius Severus--Temple of Castor and
+     Pollux--Pillar of Phocas--Temple of Antoninus and
+     Faustina--Basilica of Constantine--(Sta. Martina--S. Adriano--Sta.
+     Maria--Liberatrice, SS. Cosmo and Damian--Sta. Francesca
+     Romana)--Temple of Venus and Rome--Arch of Titus--(Sta. Maria
+     Pallara--S. Buonaventura)--Meta Sudans--Arch of
+     Constantine--Coliseum.
+
+
+Following the Corso to its end at the Ripresa dei Barberi, and turning
+to the left, we find ourselves at once amid the remains of the _Forum of
+Trajan_, erected by the architect Apollodorus for the Emperor Trajan on
+his return from the wars of the Danube. This forum now presents the
+appearance of a ravine between the Capitoline and Quirinal, but is an
+artificial hollow, excavated to facilitate the circulation of life
+within the city. An inscription over the door of the column, which
+overtops the other ruins, shows that it was raised in order to mark the
+depth of earth which was removed to construct the forum. The earth was
+formerly as high as the top of the column, which reaches, 100 Roman
+feet, to the level of the Palatine Hill. The forum was sometimes called
+the "Ulpian," from one of the names of the emperor.
+
+     "Before the year A.D. 107 the splendours of the city and the Campus
+     beyond it were still separated by a narrow isthmus, thronged
+     perhaps by the squalid cabins of the poor, and surmounted by the
+     remains of the Servian wall which ran along its summit. Step by
+     step the earlier emperors had approached with their new forums to
+     the foot of this obstruction. Domitian was the first to contemplate
+     and commence its removal. Nerva had the fortune to consecrate and
+     to give his own name to a portion of his predecessor's
+     construction; but Trajan undertook to complete the bold design, and
+     the genius of his architect triumphed over all obstacles, and
+     executed a work which exceeded in extent and splendour any previous
+     achievement of the kind. He swept away every building on the site,
+     levelled the spot on which they had stood, and laid out a vast area
+     of columnar galleries, connecting halls and chambers for public use
+     and recreation. The new forum was adorned with two libraries, one
+     for Greek, the other for Roman volumes, and it was bounded on the
+     west by a basilica of magnificent dimensions. Beyond this basilica,
+     and within the limits of the Campus, the same architect
+     (Apollodorus) erected a temple for the worship of Trajan himself;
+     but this work probably belonged to the reign of Trajan's successor,
+     and no doubt the Ulpian forum, with all its adjuncts, occupied many
+     years in building. The area was adorned with numerous statues, in
+     which the figure of Trajan was frequently repeated, and among its
+     decorations were groups in bronze or marble, representing his most
+     illustrious actions. The balustrades and cornices of the whole mass
+     of buildings flamed with gilded images of arms and horses. Here
+     stood the great equestrian statue of the emperor; here was the
+     triumphal arch decreed him by the senate, adorned with sculpture,
+     which Constantine, two centuries later, transferred without a blush
+     to his own, a barbarous act of this first Christian emperor, to
+     which however we probably owe their preservation to this day from
+     more barbarous spoliation."--_Merivale, Romans under the Empire_,
+     ch. lxiii.
+
+The beautiful _Column of Trajan_ was erected by the senate and people of
+Rome, A.D. 114. It is composed of thirty-four blocks of marble, and is
+covered with a spiral band of bas-reliefs illustrative of the Dacian
+wars, and increasing in size as it nears the top, so that it preserves
+throughout the same proportion when seen from below. It was formerly
+crowned by a statue of Trajan, holding a gilt globe, which latter is
+still preserved in the Hall of Bronzes in the Capitol. This statue had
+fallen from its pedestal long before Sixtus V. replaced it by the
+existing figure of St. Peter. At the foot of the column was a sepulchral
+chamber, intended to receive the imperial ashes, which were however
+preserved in a golden urn, upon an altar in front of it.
+
+                            "And apostolic statues climb
+    To crush the imperial urn, whose ashes slept sublime."
+           _Childe Harold_, cx.
+
+It was while walking in this forum, that Gregory the Great, observing
+one of the marble groups which told of a good and great action of
+Trajan, lamented bitterly that the soul of so noble a man should be
+lost, and prayed earnestly for the salvation of the heathen emperor. He
+was told that the soul of Trajan should be saved, but that to ensure
+this he must either himself undergo the pains of purgatory for three
+days, or suffer earthly pain and sickness for the rest of his life. He
+chose the latter, and never after was in health. This incident is
+narrated by his three biographers, John and Paul Diaconus, and John of
+Salisbury.[50]
+
+The forum of Trajan was partly uncovered by Pope Paul III. in the
+sixteenth century, but excavated in its present form by the French in
+1812. There is much still buried under the streets and neighbouring
+houses.
+
+     "All over the surface of what once was Rome it seems to be the
+     effort of Time to bury up the ancient city, as it were a corpse,
+     and he the sexton; so that, in eighteen centuries, the soil over
+     its grave has grown very deep, by the slow scattering of dust, and
+     the accumulation of more modern decay upon older ruin.
+
+     "This was the fate, also, of Trajan's forum, until some papal
+     antiquary, a few hundred years ago, began to hollow it out again,
+     and disclosed the whole height of the gigantic column, wreathed
+     round with bas-reliefs of the old emperor's warlike deeds (rich
+     sculpture, which, twining from the base to the capital, must be an
+     ugly spectacle for his ghostly eyes, if he considers that this
+     huge, storied shaft must be laid before the judgment seat, as a
+     piece of the evidence of what he did in the flesh). In the area
+     before the column stands a grove of stone, consisting of the broken
+     and unequal shafts of a vanished temple, still keeping a majestic
+     order, and apparently incapable of further demolition. The modern
+     edifices of the piazza (wholly built, no doubt, out of the spoil of
+     its old magnificence) look down into the hollow space whence these
+     pillars rise.
+
+     "One of the immense gray granite shafts lies in the piazza, on the
+     verge of the area. It is a great, solid fact of the Past, making
+     old Rome actually visible to the touch and eye; and no study of
+     history, nor force of thought, nor magic of song, can so vitally
+     assure us that Rome once existed, as this sturdy specimen of what
+     its rulers and people wrought. There is still a polish remaining on
+     the hard substance of the pillar, the polish of eighteen centuries
+     ago, as yet but half rubbed off."--_Hawthorne, Transformation._
+
+On the north of this forum are two churches: that nearest to the Corso
+is _Sta. Maria di Loreto_ (founded by the corporation of bakers in
+1500), with a dome surmounted by a picturesque lantern by Giuliano di
+Sangallo, c. 1506. It contains a statue of Sta. Susanna (_not_ the
+Susanna of the Elders) by _Fiammingo_ (François de Quesnoy), which is
+justly considered the chef-d'oeuvre of the Bernini School. The
+companion church is called _Sta. Maria di Vienna_, and (like Sta. Maria
+della Vittoria) commemorates the liberation of Vienna from the Turks in
+1683, by Sobieski, king of Poland. It was built by Innocent XI.
+
+Leaving the forum at the opposite corner by the Via Alessandrina, and
+passing under the high wall of the Convent of the Nunziatina, a street,
+opening on the left, discloses several beautiful pillars, which, after
+having borne various names, are now declared to be the remains of the
+_Temple of Mars Ultor_, built by Augustus in his new forum, which was
+erected in order to provide accommodation for the crowds which
+overflowed the Forum Romanum and Forum Julium.
+
+     "The title of Ultor marked the war and the victory by which,
+     agreeably to his vow, Augustus had avenged his uncle's death.
+
+    "'Mars ades, et satia scelerato sanguine ferrum;
+      Stetque favor causa pro meliore tuus.
+    Templa feres, et, me victore, vocaberis Ultor.'[51]
+
+     The porticoes, which extended on each side of the temple with a
+     gentle curve, contained statues of distinguished Roman generals.
+     The banquets of the Salii were transferred to this temple, a
+     circumstance which led to its identification, from the discovery of
+     an inscription here recording the _mansiones_ of these priests.
+     Like the priesthood in general, they appear to have been fond of
+     good living, and there is a well-known anecdote of the Emperor
+     Claudius having been lured by the steams of their banquet from his
+     judicial functions in the adjacent forum, to come and take part in
+     their feast. The temple was appropriated to meetings of the senate
+     in which matters connected with wars and triumphs were debated....
+     Here while Tiberius was building a temple to Augustus upon the
+     Palatine, his golden statue reposed upon a couch."--_Dyer's City of
+     Rome._
+
+     "Up to the time of Augustus, the god Mars, the reputed father of
+     the Roman race, had never, it is said, enjoyed the distinction of a
+     temple within the walls. He was then introduced into the city which
+     he had saved from overthrow and ruin; and the aid he had lent in
+     bringing the murderers of Cæsar to justice, was signalised by the
+     title of Avenger, by which he was now specially addressed.... The
+     temple of Mars Ultor, of gigantic proportions, 'Et deus est ingens
+     et opus,' was erected in the new forum of Augustus at the foot of
+     the Capitoline and Quirinal hills."--_Merivale, Romans under the
+     Empire._
+
+     "Ce temple était particulièrement cher à Auguste. Il voulut que les
+     magistrats en partissent pour aller dans leurs provinces; que
+     l'honneur du triomphe y fût décerné, et que les triomphateurs y
+     fissent hommage à Mars Vengeur de leur couronne et de leur sceptre;
+     que les drapeaux pris à l'ennemi y fussent conservés; que les chefs
+     de la cavalerie exécutassent des jeux en avant des marches de ce
+     temple; enfin que les censeurs, en sortant de leur charge, y
+     plantassent le clou sacré, vieil usage étrusque jusque-là attaché
+     au Capitole. Auguste désirait que ce temple fondé par lui prît
+     l'importance du Capitole.
+
+     "Il fit dédier le temple par ses petit-fils Caius et Lucius; et son
+     autre petit-fils, Agrippa, à la tête des plus nobles enfants de
+     Rome, y célébra le jeu de Troie, qui rappelait l'origine prétendue
+     troyenne de César; deux cent soixante lions furent égorgés dans la
+     cirque, c'était leur place; deux troupes de gladiateurs
+     combattirent dans les Septa ou se faisaient les élections au temps
+     de la république, comme si Auguste eût voulu, par ces combats qui
+     se livraient en l'honneur des morts, célébrer les funérailles de la
+     liberté romaine."--_Ampère, Emp._ i. 224.
+
+The temple of Mars stands at the north-eastern corner of the magnificent
+_Forum of Augustus_, which extended from here as far as the present Via
+Alessandrina, surpassing in size the forum of Julius Cæsar, to which it
+was adjoining. It was of sufficient size to be frequently used for
+fights of animals (venationes). Among its ornaments were statues of
+Augustus triumphant and of the subdued provinces--with inscriptions
+illustrative of the great deeds he had accomplished there; also a
+picture by Apelles representing War with her hands bound behind her,
+seated upon a pile of arms. Part of the boundary wall exists, enclosing
+on two sides the remains of the temple of Mars Ultor, and is constructed
+of huge masses of peperino. The arch, in the wall close to the temple,
+is known as Arco dei Pantani. The sudden turn in the wall here is
+interesting as commemorating a concession made to the wish of some
+proprietors, who were unwilling to part with their houses for the sake
+of the forum.
+
+     "C'est l'histoire du moulin de Sans-Souci, qui du reste paraît
+     n'être pas vraie.
+
+     "Il est piquant d'assister aujourd'hui à ce ménagement d'Auguste
+     pour l'opinion qu'il voulait gagner. Envoyant le mur s'infléchir
+     parce-qu'il a fallu épargner quelques maisons, on croit voir la
+     toute-puissance d'Auguste gauchir à dessein devant les intérêts
+     particuliers, seule puissance avec laquelle il reste à compter
+     quand tout intérêt général a disparu. L'obliquité de la politique
+     d'Auguste est visible dans l'obliquité de ce mur, qui montre et
+     rend pour ainsi dire palpable le manège adroit de la tyrannie, se
+     déguisant pour se fonder. Le mur biaise, comme biaisa constamment
+     l'empereur."--_Ampère, Emp._ i. 233.
+
+(The street on the left--passing the Arco dei Pantani--the Via della
+Salita del Grillo, commemorates the approach to the castle of the great
+mediæval family Del Grillo; the street on the right leads through the
+ancient Suburra.)
+
+At the corner of the next street (Via della Croce Bianca)--on the left
+of the Via Alessandrina--is the ruin called the "Colonnace," being part
+of the _Portico of Pallas Minerva_, which decorated the _Forum
+Transitorium_, begun by Domitian, but dedicated in the short reign of
+Nerva, and hence generally called the _Forum of Nerva_, on account of
+the execration with which the memory of Domitian was regarded. Up to the
+seventeenth century seven magnificent columns of the temple of Minerva
+were still standing, but they were destroyed by Paul V., who used part
+of them in building the Fontana Paolina. The existing remains consist of
+two half-buried Corinthian columns with a figure of Minerva, and a
+frieze of bas-reliefs.
+
+     "Les bas-reliefs du forum de Nerva représentent des femmes occupées
+     des travaux d'aiguille, auxquels présidait Minerve. Quand on se
+     rappelle, que Domitien avait placé à Albano, près du temple de
+     cette déesse, un collège de prêtres qui imitaient la parure et les
+     moeurs de femmes, on est tenté de croire qu'il y a dans le choix
+     des subjets figurés ici une allusion aux habitudes efféminées de
+     ces prétres."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 161.
+
+     "The portico of the temple of Minerva is most rich and beautiful in
+     architecture, but woefully gnawed by time, and shattered by
+     violence, besides being buried midway in the accumulation of the
+     soil, that rises over dead Rome like a flood-tide. Within this
+     edifice of antique sanctity a baker's shop is now established, with
+     an entrance on one side; for everywhere, the remnants of old
+     grandeur and divinity have been made available for the meanest
+     neccessities of to-day."--_Hawthorne._
+
+It was in this forum that Nerva caused Vetronius Turinus, who had
+trafficked with his court interest, to be suffocated with smoke, a
+herald proclaiming at the time, "Fumo punitur qui vendidit fumum."
+
+Returning a short distance down the Via Alessandrina, and turning (left)
+down the Via Bonella, we traverse the site of the _Forum of Julius
+Cæsar_, upon which 4000 sestertia (800,000 _l._) were expended, and
+which is described by Dion-Cassius as having been more beautiful than
+the Forum Romanum. It was ornamented with a Temple of Venus
+Genetrix--from whom Julius Cæsar claimed to be descended--which
+contained a statue of the goddess by Archesilaus, a statue of Cæsar
+himself, and a group of Ajax and Medea by Timomacus. Here, also, Cæsar
+had the effrontery to place the statue of his mistress, Cleopatra, by
+the side of that of the goddess. In front of the temple stood a bronze
+figure of a horse--supposed to be the famous Bucephalus--the work of
+Lysippus.
+
+    "Cedat equus Latiæ qui, contra templa Diones,
+    Cæsarei stat sede Fori. Quem tradere es ausus
+    Pellæo Lysippa Duci, mox Cæsaris ora
+    Aurata cervice tulit."
+
+    _Statius, Silv._ i. 84.
+
+The only visible remains of this forum are some courses of huge square
+blocks of stone (Lapis Gabinus), in a dirty court.
+
+Part of the site of the forum of Julius Cæsar is now occupied--on the
+right near the end of the Via Bonella--by the _Accademia di San Luca_,
+founded in 1595, Federigo Zuccaro being its first director. The
+collections are open from 9 to 5 daily. A ceiling representing Bacchus
+and Ariadne, is by _Guido_. The best pictures are:--
+
+     Bacchus and Ariadne: _Poussin_.
+     Vanity: _Paul Veronese_.
+     Calista and the Nymphs: _Titian_.
+     The murder of Lucretia: _Guido Cagnacci_.
+     Fortune: _Guido_.
+     Innocent XI.: _Velasquez_.
+     The Saviour and the Pharisee: _Titian_.
+     A lovely fresco of a child: _Raphael_.
+     St. Luke painting the Virgin: _Attributed to Raphael_.
+
+"St. Luke painting the Virgin has been a frequent and favourite
+subject. The most famous of all is a picture in the Academy of St.
+Luke, ascribed to Raphael. Here St. Luke, kneeling on a footstool
+before an easel, is busied painting the Virgin with the Child in
+her arms, who appears to him out of heaven, sustained by clouds;
+behind St. Luke stands Raphael himself, looking on."--_Mrs.
+Jameson._
+
+A skull preserved here was long supposed to be that of Raphael, but his
+true skull has since been found in his grave in the Pantheon.
+
+     "On a longtemps vénéré ici un crâne que l'on croyait être celui de
+     Raphael; crâne étroit sur lequel les phrénologistes auront prononcé
+     de vains oracles, devant lequel on aura bien profondément rêvé et
+     qui n'était que celui d'un obscur chanoine bien innocent de toutes
+     ces imaginations."--_A. Du Pays._
+
+Just beyond St. Luca, we enter the Forum Romanum.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The interest of Rome comes to its climax in the Forum. In spite of all
+that is destroyed, and all that is buried, so much still remains to be
+seen, and every stone has its story. Even without entering into all the
+vexed archæological questions which have filled the volumes of Canina,
+Bunsen, Niebuhr, and many others, the occupation which a traveller
+interested in history will find here is all but inexhaustible; and,
+after the disputes of centuries, the different sites seem now to be
+verified with tolerable certainty. The study of the Roman Forum is
+complicated by the _succession_ of public edifices by which it has been
+occupied, each period of Roman history having a different set of
+buildings, and each in a great measure supplanting that which went
+before. Another difficulty has naturally arisen from the exceedingly
+circumscribed space in which all these buildings have to be arranged,
+and which shows that many of the ancient temples must have been mere
+chapels, and the so-called "lakes" little more than fountains.
+
+     "This spot, where the senate had its assemblies, where the rostra
+     were placed, where the destinies of the world were discussed, is
+     the most celebrated and the most classical of ancient Rome. It was
+     adorned with the most magnificent monuments, which were so crowded
+     upon one another, that their heaped-up ruins are not sufficient for
+     all the names which are handed down to us by history. The course of
+     centuries has overthrown the Forum, and made it impossible to
+     define; the level of the ancient soil is twenty-four feet below
+     that of to-day, and however great a desire one may feel to
+     reproduce the past, it must be acknowledged that this very
+     difference of level is a terrible obstacle to the powers of
+     imagination; again, the uncertainties of archæologists are
+     discouraging to curiosity and the desire of illusion. For more than
+     three centuries learning has been at work upon this field of ruins,
+     without being able even to agree upon its bearings; some describing
+     it as extending from north to south, others from east to west. The
+     origin of the Forum goes back to the alliance of the Romans and
+     Sabines. It was a space surrounded by marshes, which extended
+     between the Palatine and the Capitol, occupied by the two colonies,
+     and serving as a neutral ground where they could meet. The Curtian
+     Lake was situated in the midst. Constantly adorned under the
+     republic and the empire, it appears that it continued to exist
+     until the eleventh century. Its total ruin dates from Robert
+     Guiscard, who, when called to the assistance of Gregory VII., left
+     it a heap of ruins. Abandoned for many centuries, it became a
+     receptacle for rubbish, which gradually raised the level of the
+     soil. About 1547, Paul III. began to make excavations in the Forum.
+     Then the place became a cattle-market, and the glorious name of
+     Forum Romanum changed into that of Campo Vaccino.
+
+     "The Forum was surrounded by a portico of two stories, the lower of
+     which was occupied by shops (tabernæ). In the beginning of the
+     sixth century of Rome, two fires destroyed part of the edifices
+     with which it had been embellished. This was an opportunity for
+     isolating the Forum, and basilicas and temples were raised in
+     succession along its sides, which in their turn were partly
+     destroyed in the fire of Nero. Domitian rebuilt a part, and added
+     the temple of Vespasian, and Antoninus that of Faustina."--_A. Du
+     Pays._
+
+The excavations which were made in the Forum before 1871 are for the
+most part due to the generosity of Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire. The
+papal government always displayed the most extraordinary apathy about
+extending them, and, when a large excavation was made in the winter of
+1869--70, by the British Archæological Society, in front of the Church
+of Sta. Martina, insisted on its being immediately filled up again,
+instead of extending it, as might easily have been done, to join the
+excavation which had long existed on the Clivus Capitolinus. Lately the
+excavations have been considerably increased, but were the roads
+leading to the Forum to be closed, and a large body of efficient
+labourers set to work, the whole of the Roman Forum and its surroundings
+might be laid bare in a month, without any injury to the interesting
+churches in its neighbourhood. At present, even that part which is
+disinterred is cut up by a number of raised causeways, which distract
+the eye and mar the general effect, and the excavations, recommenced by
+the Italian government, are slowly and inadequately carried on.
+
+If we stand on the causeway in front of the arch of Septimius Severus,
+and turn towards the Capitol, we look upon the Clivus Capitolinus, which
+is perfectly crowded with historical sites and fragments, viz.:--
+
+1. The modern Capitol, resting on the _Tabularium_. This is one of the
+earliest architectural relics in Rome. It is built in the Etruscan
+style, of huge blocks of tufa or peperino placed long-and cross-ways
+alternately. It was formerly composed of two stages called Camellaria.
+Only the lower now remains. It contained the tables of the laws. The
+corridor which remains in the interior is used as a museum of
+architectural fragments. The Tabularium probably communicated with the
+_Ærarium_ in the temple of Saturn.
+
+2. On the right of the excavated space, and nearest the Tabularium, the
+site of the _Tribune_, in front of which were the _Rostra_, to which the
+head of Octavius was affixed by Marius, and the head and hand of Cicero
+by Antony, and where Fulvia, the widow of Clodius, spat in his dead
+face, and pierced his inanimate tongue with the pin which she wore in
+her hair. In front of the rostrum were the statues of the three Sibyls
+called Tria Fata.
+
+3. Below, a little(**typo? little?) more to the right, is the site of
+the _Comitium_, where the survivor of the Horatii was condemned to
+death, and saved by the voice of the people. Here, also, was the
+trophied pillar which bore the arms of the Curiatii. In the area of the
+Comitium grew the famous fig-tree which was always preserved here in
+commemoration of the tree under which Romulus and Remus were suckled by
+the wolf, and beneath which was a bronze representation of the wolf and
+the children.
+
+4. A little more to the left, is the site of _the Vulcanal_, so called
+from an altar dedicated to Vulcan, a platform (still defined) where, in
+the earliest times, Romulus and Tatius used to meet on intermediate
+ground and transact affairs common to both; and where Brutus was seated,
+when, without any change of countenance, he saw his two sons beaten and
+beheaded. Adjoining the Vulcanal was the _Græcostasis_, where foreign
+ambassadors waited before they were admitted to an audience of the
+senate.
+
+5. Below the Vulcanal, and just behind the Arch of Severus, is the site
+of the _Temple of Concord_, dedicated, with blasphemous
+inappropriateness, B.C. 121, by the consul Opimius, immediately after
+the murder of Caius Gracchus. Here Cicero pronounced his orations
+against Catiline before the senate. A pavement of coloured marbles
+remains. At its base are still to be seen some small remains of the
+_Colonna Mænia_, which was surmounted by the statue of C. Mænius, who
+decorated the rostra with the iron beaks of vessels taken in war.
+
+6. The three beautiful columns which are still standing were attributed
+to a temple of Jupiter Tonans, but are now decided to belong to the
+_Temple of Vespasian_. The engravings of Piranesi represent them as
+buried almost to their capitals, and they remained in this state until
+they were disinterred during the first French occupation. The space was
+so limited in this part of Rome, that in order to prevent encroaching
+upon the street Clivus Capitolinus, which descends the hill between this
+temple and that of Saturn, the temple of Vespasian was raised on a kind
+of terrace, and the staircase which led to it was thrust in between the
+columns. This temple was restored by Septimius Severus, and to this the
+letters on the entablature refer, being part of the word _Restituere_.
+Instruments of sacrifice are sculptured on the frieze.
+
+7. On the left of the excavated space, close beneath the Tabularium, a
+low range of columns recently re-erected represents the building called
+the _School of Xanthus_, chambers, for the use of the scribes and
+persons in the service of the curule ædiles, which derived their name
+from Xanthus, a freedman, by whom they were rebuilt.
+
+8. The eight Ionic columns still standing, part of the _Temple of
+Saturn_, the ancient god of the Capitol. Before this temple Pompey sate
+surrounded by soldiers, listening to the orations which Cicero was
+delivering from the rostrum, when he received the personal address, "Te
+enim jam appello, et ea voce ut me exaudire possis." Here the tribune
+Metellus flung himself before the door and vainly attempted to defend
+the treasure of the _Ærarium_ in this temple against Julius Cæsar. The
+present remains are those of an indifferent and late renovation of an
+earlier temple, being composed of columns which differ in diameter, and
+a frieze put together from fragments which do not belong to one another.
+The original temple was built by Tarquin, and was supposed to mark the
+site of the ancient Sabine altar of the god and the limit of the wood of
+refuge mentioned by Virgil.
+
+9. Just below the Temple of Saturn is the site of the _Arch of
+Tiberius_, erected, according to Tacitus, upon the recovery by
+Germanicus of the standards which Varus had lost.
+
+10. The remains of the _Milliarium Aureum_, which formed the upper
+extremity of a wall faced with marbles, ending near the arch of Severus
+in a small conical pyramid. Distances without the walls were inscribed
+upon the Milliarium Aureum, as distances within the walls were upon the
+pyramid (from which in this case they were also measured) which bore the
+name of _Umbilicus Romæ_. The Via Sacra, which is still visible,
+descended from the Capitol between the temples of Saturn and
+Vespasian,--being known here as the Clivus Capitolinus, and passed to
+the left of--
+
+11. The _Arch of Septimius Severus_, which was erected by the senate
+A.D. 205, in honour of that emperor and his two sons, Caracalla and
+Geta. It is adorned with bas-reliefs relating his victories in the
+east,--his entry into Babylon and the tower of the temple of Belus are
+represented. A curious memorial of imperial history may be observed in
+the inscription, where we may still discern the erasure made by
+Caracalla after he had put his brother Geta to death in A.D. 213, for
+the sake of obliterating his memory. The added words are OPTIMIS
+FORTISSIMISQVE PRINCIPIBUS--but the ancient inscription P. SEPT. LVC.
+FIL. GETÆ. NOBILISS. CÆSARI, has been made out by painstaking
+decipherers. In one of the piers is a staircase leading to the top of
+the arch which was formerly (as seen from coins of Severus and
+Caracalla) adorned by a car drawn by six horses abreast, and containing
+figures of Severus and his sons. It was in front of this arch that the
+statue of Marcus Aurelius stood, which is now at the Capitol.
+
+     "Les proportions de l'arc de Septime-Sévère sont encore belles.
+     L'aspect en est imposant; il est solide sans être lourd. La grande
+     inscription où se lisent les épithètes victorieuses qui rappellent
+     les succès militaires de l'empereur, Parthique, Dacique,
+     Adiabénique, se déploie sur une vaste surface et donne à
+     l'entablement un air de majesté qu'admirent les artistes. Cette
+     inscription est doublement historique; elle rappelle les campagnes
+     de Sévère et la tragédie domestique qui après lui ensanglanta sa
+     famille, le meurtre d'un de ses fils immolé par l'autre, et
+     l'acharnement de celui-ci à poursuivre la mémoire du frère qu'il
+     avait fait assassiner. Le nom de Géta a été visiblement effacé par
+     Caracalla. La même chose se remarque dans une inscription sur
+     bronze qu'on voit au Capitale et sur le petit arc du Marché aux
+     boeufs dont j'ai parlé, où l'image de Géta a été effacée comme
+     son nom. Caracalla ne permit pas même à ce nom proscrit de se
+     cacher parmi les hiéroglyphes. En Egypte, ceux qui composaient le
+     nom de Géta ont été grattés sur les monuments."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii.
+     278.
+
+(The excavations in thé Forum are open to the public on the same days as
+the Palace of the Cæsars--Thursdays and Sundays.)
+
+The platform on which we have been standing leads to the Via della
+Consolazione, occupying the site of the ancient _Vicus Jugarius_, where
+Augustus erected an altar to Ceres, and another to Ops Augusta, the
+goddess of wealth. (In this street, on the left, is a good cinque-cento
+doorway.) Where this street leaves the Forum was the so-called _Lacus
+Servilius_, a basin which probably derived its name from Servilius Ahala
+(who slew the philanthropist Sp. Mælius with a dagger near this very
+spot), and which was encircled with a ghastly row of heads in the
+massacres under Sylla. This fountain was adorned by M. Aggrippa with a
+figure of a hydra. The right side of the Forum is now occupied for a
+considerable distance by the disinterred remains of the _Basilica
+Julia_, begun by Julius Cæsar, and finished by Augustus, who dedicated
+it in honour of his daughter. A basilica of this description was
+intended partly as a Law Court and partly as an Exchange. In this
+basilica the judges called Centumviri held their courts, which were four
+in number:
+
+    "Jam clamor, centumque viri, densumque coronæ
+    Vulgus: et infanti Julia tecta placent."
+
+    _Martial_, vi. _Ep._ 38.
+
+Beyond the basilica are three beautiful columns which belong to a
+restoration of the _Temple of Castor and Pollux_, dedicated by
+Postumius, B.C. 484. Here costly sacrifices were always offered in the
+ides of July, at the anniversary of the battle of the Lake Regillus,
+after which the Roman knights, richly clothed, crowned with olive, and
+bearing their trophies, rode past it in military procession, starting
+from the temple of Mars outside the Porta Capena. The entablature which
+the three columns support is of great richness, and the whole fragment
+is considered to be one of the finest existing specimens of the
+Corinthian order. None of the Roman ruins have given rise to more
+discussion than this. It has perpetually changed its name. Bunsen and
+many other authorities considered it to belong to the temple of Minerva
+Chalcidica; but as it is known that the position of the now discovered
+Basilica Julia was exactly between the temple of Saturn and that of
+Castor, and a passage of Ovid describes the latter as being close to the
+site of the temple of Vesta, which is also ascertained, it seems almost
+certain now that it belonged to the temple of the Dioscuri. Dion-Cassius
+mentions that Caligula made this temple a vestibule to his house on the
+Palatine.
+
+Here, on the right, branches off the Via dei Fienili, once the _Vicus
+Tuscus_, or Etruscan quarter (see Chap. V.), leading to the Circus
+Maximus. At its entrance was the bronze statue of Vertumnus, the god of
+Etruria, and patron of the quarter. The long trough-shaped fountain
+here, at which such picturesque groups of oxen and buffaloes are
+constantly standing, is a memorial of the _Lake of Juturna_ the sister
+of Turnus, or as she was sometimes described, the wife of Janus the
+Sabine war-god. This fountain, for such it must have been, was dried up
+by Paul V.
+
+    "At quæ venturas præcedit sexta kalendas,
+      Hac sunt Ledæis templa dicata deis.
+    Fratribus illa deis fratres de gente deorum
+      Circa Juturnæ composuere lacus."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ i. 705.
+
+Here, close under the Palatine, is the site of the famous _Temple of
+Vesta_, in which the sacred fire was preserved, with the palladium saved
+from Troy. On the altar of this temple, blood was sprinkled annually
+from the tail of the horse which was sacrificed to Mars in the
+Campus-Martius. The foundation of the temple was attributed to Numa, but
+the worship must have existed in Pelasgic times, as the mother of
+Romulus was a vestal. It was burnt down in the fire of Nero, rebuilt and
+again burnt down under Commodus, and probably restored for the last time
+by Heliogabalus. Here, during the consulate of the young Marius, the
+high priest Scævola was murdered, splashing the image of Vesta with his
+blood,--and here (A.D. 68) Piso, the adopted son of Galba, was murdered
+in the sanctuary whither he had fled for refuge, and his head, being cut
+off, was affixed to the rostra. Behind the temple, along the lower ridge
+of the Palatine, stretched the sacred grove of Vesta, and the site of
+the Church of Sta. Maria Liberatrice was occupied by the _Atrium Vestæ_,
+a kind of convent for the vestal virgins. Here Numa Pompilius fixed his
+residence, hoping to conciliate both the Latins of the Palatine and the
+Sabines of the Capitoline by occupying a neutral ground between them.
+
+    "Quæris iter? dicam, vicinum Castora, canæ
+      Transibis Vestæ, virgineamque domum,
+    Inde sacro veneranda petes palatia Clivo."
+
+    _Martial_, i. _Ep._ 70.
+
+    "Hic focus est Vestæ, qui Pallada servat et ignem.
+      Hic fuit antiqui regia parva Numæ."
+         _Ovid, Trist._ iii. _El._ 1.
+
+    "Hic locus exiguus, qui sustinet atria Vestæ,
+      Tunc erat intonsi regia magna Numæ.
+    Forma tamen templi, quae nunc manet, ante fuisse
+      Dicitur; et formæ causa probanda subest.
+    Vesta eadem est, et Terra; subest vigil ignis utrique,
+      Significant sedem terra focusque suam.
+    Terra pilæ similis, nullo fulcimine nixa,
+      Aëre subjecto tam grave pendet onus.
+    Arte Syracosia suspensus in aëre clauso
+      Stat globus, immensi parva figura poli;
+    Et quantum a summis, tantum secessit ab imis
+      Terra. Quod ut fiat, forma rotunda facit.
+    Par facies templi: nullus procurrit ab illo
+      Angulus. A pluvio vindicat imbre tholus."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ vi. 263.
+
+    "Servat et Alba, Lares, et quorum lucet in aris
+    Ignis adhuc Phrygius, nullique adspecta virorum
+    Pallas, in abstruso pignus memorabile templo."
+
+    _Lucan_, ix. 992.
+
+Close to the temple of Vesta was the _Regia_, where Julius Cæsar lived
+(as pontifex maximus)--where Pompeia his second wife admitted her lover
+Clodius in the disguise of a woman to the mysteries of the Bona
+Dea--whence Cæsar went forth to his death--and from which his last wife
+Calpurnia rushed forth with loud outcries to receive his dead body.
+
+Somewhere in this part of the Forum was the famous _Curtian Lake_, so
+called from Mettus Curtius, a Sabine warrior, who with difficulty
+escaped from its quagmires to the Capitol after a battle between Romulus
+and Tatius.[52] Tradition declares that the quagmire afterwards became a
+gulf, which an oracle declared would never close until that which was
+most important to the Roman people was sacrificed to it. Then the young
+Marcus Curtius, equipped in full armour, leapt his horse into the abyss,
+exclaiming that nothing was more important to the Roman people than arms
+and courage; and the gulf was closed.[53] Two altars were afterwards
+erected on the site to the two heroes, and a vine and an olive tree grew
+there.[54]
+
+    "Hoc, ubi nunc fora sunt, udæ tenuere paludes:
+      Amne redundatis fossa madebat aquis.
+    Curtius ille lacus, siccas qui sustinet aras,
+      Nunc solida est tellus, sed lacus ante fuit."
+             _Ovid, Fast._ vi. 401.
+
+Some fountain, like those of Servilius and Juturna, bearing the name of
+Lacus Curtius must have existed on this site to imperial times, for the
+Emperor Galba was murdered there.
+
+     "A single cohort still surrounded Galba, when the standard-bearer
+     tore the Emperor's image from his spear-head, and dashed it on the
+     ground. The soldiers were at once decided for Otho; swords were
+     drawn, and every symptom of favour for Galba amongst the bystanders
+     was repressed by menaces, till they dispersed and fled in horror
+     from the Forum. At last, the bearers of the emperor's litter
+     overturned it at the Curtian pool beneath the Capitol. In a few
+     moments enemies swarmed around his body. A few words he muttered,
+     which have been diversely reported: some said that they were abject
+     and unbecoming; others affirmed that he presented his neck to the
+     assassin's sword, and bade him strike 'if it were for the good of
+     the republic;' but none listened, none perhaps heeded the words
+     actually spoken; Galba's throat was pierced, but even the author of
+     his mortal wound was not ascertained, while his breast being
+     protected by the cuirass, his legs and arms were hacked with
+     repeated gashes."--_Merivale_, vii. 73.
+
+At the foot of the Clivus Capitolinus, on the left (looking towards the
+Arch of Titus) stood the _Temple of Janus Quirinus_, between the great
+Forum and the Forum of Julius Cæsar, and near the ascent to the Porta
+Janualis, by which Tarpeia admitted the Sabines to the Capitol.
+Procopius, in the sixth century, saw the little bronze temple of Janus
+still standing. This was one of many temples of the great Sabine god.
+
+    "Quum tot sint Jani; cur stas sacratus in uno,
+    Hic ubi juncta foris templa duobus habes?"
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ i. 257.
+
+This was the temple which was the famous index of peace and war, closed
+by Augustus for the third time from its foundation after the victory of
+Actium.[55]
+
+    " ...et vacuum duellis
+    Janum Quirini clausit, et ordinem
+    Rectum, et vaganti fræna licentiæ
+    Injecit."
+
+    _Horace_, Ode iv. 15.
+
+Besides this temple there were three arches, whose sites are unknown,
+dedicated to Janus in different parts of the Forum.
+
+    " ...Hæc Janus summus ab imo
+    Perdocet----"
+
+    _Horace, Ep._ i. 1, 54.
+
+The central arch was the resort of brokers and money-lenders.[56]
+
+    " ...Postquam omnis res mea Janum
+    Ad medium fracta est."
+
+    _Hor. Sat._ ii. 3, 18.
+
+Along this side of the Forum stood the _Tabernæ Argentariæ_, the
+silversmiths' shops, and beyond them--probably in front of S.
+Adriano--were the Tabernæ Novæ, where Virginia was stabbed by her father
+with a butcher's knife, which he had seized from one of the stalls,
+saying, "This, my child, is the only way to keep thee free," as he
+plunged it into her heart.[57] Near this also was the statue of Venus
+Cloacina.[58]
+
+The front of the Church of S. Adriano is a fragment of the _Basilica of
+Æmilius Paulus_, built with part of 1500 talents which Cæsar had sent
+from Gaul to win him over to his party. This basilica occupied the site
+of the famous _Curia_ of Tullus Hostilius.
+
+     "Là se réunit, pour la première fois sous un toit, le conseil des
+     anciens rois que le savant Properce, avec un sentiment vrai des
+     antiquités romaines, nous montre tel qu'il était dans l'origine, se
+     rassemblant au son de la trompe pastorale dans un pré, comme le
+     peuple dans certains petits cantons de la Suisse."--_Ampère, Hist.
+     Rom._ ii. 310.
+
+The Curia was capable of containing six hundred senators, their number
+in the time of the Gracchi. It had no tribune,--each speaker rose in
+turn and spoke in his place. Here was "the hall of assembly in which the
+fate of the world was decided." The Curia was destroyed by fire, which
+it caught from the funeral pyre of Clodius. Around the Curia stood many
+statues of Romans who had rendered especial service to the state. The
+Curia Julia occupied the site of the Curia Hostilia in the early part of
+the reign of Augustus. Close by the old Curia was the _Basilica Porcia_,
+built by Cato the Censor, which was likewise burnt down at the funeral
+of Clodius. Near this, the base of the rostral column, _Colonna Duilia_,
+has been found.
+
+Opposite the Basilica Julia, in the depth of the Forum, is the _Column
+of Phocas_, raised to that emperor by the exarch Smaragdus in 608. This
+is--
+
+    "The nameless column with a buried base,"
+
+of Byron, but is now neither nameless nor buried, its pedestal having
+been laid bare by the Duchess of Devonshire in 1813, and bearing an
+inscription which shows an origin that no one ever anticipated.
+
+     "In the age of Phocas (602--610), the art of erecting a column like
+     that of Trajan or M. Aurelius had been lost. A large and handsome
+     Corinthian pillar, taken from some temple or basilica, was
+     therefore placed in the Forum, on a huge pyramidal basis quite out
+     of proportion to it, and was surmounted with a statue of Phocas in
+     gilt bronze. It has so little the appearance of a monumental
+     column, that for a long while it was thought to belong to some
+     ruined building, till, in 1813, the inscription was discovered. The
+     name of Phocas had, indeed, been erased; but that it must have been
+     dedicated to him is shown by the date.... The base of this column,
+     discovered by the excavations of 1816 to have rested on the ancient
+     pavement of the Forum, proves that this former centre of Roman life
+     was still, at the beginning of the seventh century, unencumbered
+     with ruins."--_Dyer's History of the City of Rome._
+
+     "Ce monument et l'inscription qui l'accompagne sont précieux pour
+     l'histoire, car ils montrent le dernier terme de l'avilissement où
+     Rome devait tomber. Smaragdus est le premier magistrat de
+     Rome,--mais ce magistrat est un préfet, l'élu du pouvoir impérial
+     et non de ses concitoyens;--il commande, non, il est vrai, à la
+     capitale du monde, mais au chef-lieu du duché de Rome. Ce préfet,
+     qui n'est connu de l'histoire que par ses lâches ménagements envers
+     les Barbares, imagine de voler une colonne à un beau temple, au
+     temple d'un empereur de quelque mérite, pour la dédier à un
+     exécrable tyran monté sur le trône par des assassinats, au
+     meurtrier de l'empereur Maurice, à l'ignoble Phocas, que tout le
+     monde connaît, grâce à Corneille, qui l'a encore trop ménagé. Et le
+     plat drôle ose appeler très-clément celui qui fit égorger sous les
+     yeux de Maurice ses quatre fils avant de l'égorger lui-même. Il
+     décerne le titre de triomphateur à Phocas, qui laissa conquérir par
+     Chosroès une bonne part de l'empire. Il ose écrire: 'pour les
+     innombrables bienfaits de sa piété, pour le repos procuré à
+     l'Italie et à la liberté.' Ainsi l'histoire monumentale de la Rome
+     de l'empire finit honteusement par un hommage ridicule de la
+     bassesse à la violence."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 389.
+
+A little behind the Column of Phocas are the marble slabs commemorating
+the sacrifices called Suovetaurilia, consisting of a pig, a sheep, and
+an ox, animals which are sculptured here in bold relief. On the side
+towards the Capitol a number of figures are represented, amongst them a
+woman presenting a child to the emperor, in reference to Trajan's asylum
+for orphans, or for those who were too poor to bring up their children.
+On the other side is a burning of deeds in reference to the famous
+remission of debts by Trajan.
+
+Beyond this, on the left, the base of the famous statue of Domitian has
+been discovered as described by Statius:
+
+    "Ipse loci custos, cujus sacrata vorago,
+    Famosusque lacus nomen memorabile servat."
+
+    _Silv._ i. 66.
+
+Here the Via Sacra turns, almost continuing the Vicus Tuscus. On its
+right, on a line with the Temple of the Dioscuri, has been discovered
+the base of the small Temple of Julius Cæsar (Ædes Divi Julii),[59]
+which was surrounded with a colonnade of closely-placed columns and
+surmounted by a statue of the deified triumvir. This was the first
+temple in Rome which was dedicated to a mortal.
+
+    "Fratribus assimilis, quos proxima templa tenentes
+    Divus ab excelsa Julius æde videt."
+
+    _Ovid, Pont. El._ ii. 2.
+
+Dion Cassius narrates that this temple was erected on the spot where the
+body of Julius was burnt. It was adorned by Augustus with the beaks of
+the vessels taken in the battle of Actium, and hence obtained the name
+of Rostra Julia. He also placed here the statue of Venus Anadyomene of
+Apelles, because Cæsar had claimed descent from that goddess. Here, in
+A.D. 14, the body of Augustus, being brought from Nola, where he died,
+was placed upon a bier, while Tiberius pronounced a funeral oration over
+it, before it was carried to the Campus Martius.
+
+The road turns again in front of the remains of the _Temple of Antoninus
+and Faustina_, erected by the flattery of the senate to the memory of
+the licentious Empress Faustina, the faithless wife of Antoninus Pius,
+whom they elevated to the rank of a goddess. Her husband, dying before
+its completion, was associated in her honours, and the inscription,
+which still remains on the portico, is "DIVO ANTONINO ET DIVÆ FAUSTINÆ.
+EX. S. C." The front of the temple is adorned with eight columns of
+cipolino, forty-three feet high, supporting a frieze ornamented with
+griffins and candelabra. The effect of these remains would be
+magnificent if the modern road were removed, and the temple were laid
+bare in its full height, with the twenty-one steps which formerly led to
+it. It is also greatly injured by the hideous Church of S. Lorenzo in
+Miranda, which encloses the cella of the temple, and whose name, says
+Ampère, naively expresses the admiration in which its builders held
+these remains.[60]
+
+On the left we now reach the Church of SS. Cosmo and Damian, considered
+by Nibby and others to occupy the site of a temple of Remus. Ampère has
+since proved that this temple never existed, and that the remains are
+those of a _Temple of the Penates_, rebuilt by Augustus. Here Valerius
+Publicola had a house, to which he removed from the Velia, in deference
+to the wishes of the Roman people.
+
+     "Le sentiment d'effroi que la demeure féodale des Valérius causait,
+     était pareille à celui qu'inspiraient aux Romains du moyen âge les
+     tours des barons, que le peuple, dès qu'il était le maître, se
+     hâtait de démolir. Valerius n'attendit pas qu'on se portât à cette
+     extrémité, et il vint habiter au pied de la Velia. C'est le premier
+     triomphe des plébéiens sur l'aristocratie romaine et la première
+     concession de cette aristocratie."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ ii. 274.
+
+A little further on are three gigantic arches, being all that remains of
+the magnificent _Basilica of Constantine_, which was 320 feet in length
+and 235 feet in width. The existing ruins are those of one of the aisles
+of the basilica. There are traces of an entrance towards the Coliseum.
+The roof was supported by eight Corinthian columns, of which one,
+remaining here till the time of Paul V., was removed by him to the
+piazza of Sta. Maria Maggiore, where it still stands. This site was
+previously occupied by the _Temple of Peace_, burnt down in the time of
+Commodus. This temple was the great museum of Rome under the empire, and
+contained the seven-branched candlestick and other treasures brought
+from Jerusalem,[61] as well as all the works of art which had been
+collected in the palace of Nero and which were removed hither by
+Vespasian. A statue of the Nile, with children playing around it, is
+mentioned by Pliny as among the sights in the temple of Peace.[62]
+
+It was near this that the Via Sacra was crossed by the _Arch of Fabius_,
+erected B.C. 121, in honour of the conqueror of the Allobroges,--the
+then inhabitants of Savoy. Close to this portion of the Via Sacra also
+stood a statue of Valeria, daughter of Publicola, by whom the honours of
+the virgin Cloelia were disputed.
+
+Besides those which we have noticed, there is mention in classical
+authors of many other buildings and statues which were once crowded into
+this narrow space; but all trace of many even of those enumerated is
+still buried many feet below the soil.
+
+The modern name of _Campo Vaccino_, by which the Forum is now known, is
+supposed by some antiquaries to be derived from Vitruvius Vacco, who
+once had a house there.
+
+     "La guerre aux habitants de Privernum (Piperno) rattache à une
+     localité du Palatin.... Les habitants de Fondi avaient fait cause
+     commune avec les habitants de Privernum. Leur chef, Vitruvius
+     Vacca, possedait une maison sur le Palatin; c'était un homme
+     considérable dans son pays et même à Rome. Ils demandèrent et
+     obtinrent grâce. Privernum fut pris, et Vitruvius Vacca, qui s'y
+     était réfugié, conduit à Rome, enfermé dans le prison Mamertine
+     pour y être gardé jusqu'au retour du consul, et alors battu de
+     verges et mis à mort; sa maison du Palatin fut rasée, et le lieu où
+     elle avait été garda le nom de _Prés de Vacca_."--_Ampère, Histoire
+     Romaine_, iii. 17.
+
+But the name will seem singularly appropriate to those who are familiar
+with the groups of meek-faced oxen of the Campagna, which are always to
+be seen lying in the shade under the trees of the Forum, or drinking at
+its water-troughs.
+
+     "'Romanoque Foro et lautis mugire Carinis.'
+
+     "Ce vers m'a toujours profondément frappé, lorsque je traversais le
+     Forum, aujourd'hui Campo-Vaccino (le champ du bétail); je voyais
+     en effet presque toujours à son extrémité des boeufs couchés au
+     pied du Palatin. Virgile, se reportant de la Rome de son temps à la
+     Rome ancienne d'Evandre, ne trouvait pas d'image plus frappante du
+     changement produit par les siècles, que la présence d'un troupeau
+     de boeufs dans le lieu destiné à être le Forum. Eh bien, le jour
+     devait venir où ce qui était pour Virgile un passé lointain et
+     presque incroyable se reproduirait dans la suite des âges; le Forum
+     devait être de nouveau un lieu agreste, ses magnificences s'en
+     aller et les boeufs y revenir.
+
+     "J'aimais à les contempler à travers quelques colonnes moins
+     vieilles que les souvenirs qu'ils me retracaient, reprenant
+     possession de ce sol d'où les avait chassés la liberté, la gloire,
+     Cicéron, César, et où devait les ramener la plus grande vicissitude
+     de l'historie, la destruction de l'empire romain per les barbares.
+     Ce que Virgile trouvait si étrange dans le passé n'étonne plus dans
+     le présent; les boeufs mugissent au Forum; ils s'y couchent et y
+     ruminent aujourd'hui, de même qu'au temps d'Evandre et comme s'il
+     n'était rien arrivé."--Ampère, Hist. Rom. 1. 211.
+
+                  "In many a heap the ground
+    Heaves, is if Ruin in a frantic mood
+    Had done his utmost. Here and there appears,
+    As left to show his handy-work not ours,
+    An idle column, a half-buried arch,
+    A wall of some great temple. It was once,
+    And long, the centre of their Universe,
+    The Forum--whence a mandate, eagle-winged,
+    Went to the ends of the earth. Let us descend
+    Slowly. At every step much may be lost,
+    The very dust we tread stirs as with life,
+    And not a breath but from the ground sends up
+    Something of human grandeur.
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    Now all is changed; and here, as in the wild,
+    The day is silent, dreary as the night;
+    None stirring, save the herdsman and his herd,
+    Savage alike; or they that would explore,
+    Discuss, and learnedly; or they that come,
+    (And there are many who have crossed the earth,)
+    That they may give the hours to meditation,
+    And wander, often saving to themselves,
+    'This was the Roman Forum!'"
+
+    _Rogers' Italy._
+
+     "We descended into the Forum, the light fast fading away and
+     throwing a kindred soberness over the scene of ruin. The soil has
+     risen from rubbish at least fifteen feet, so that no wonder that
+     the hills look lower than they used to do, having been never very
+     considerable at the first. There it was one scene of desolation,
+     from the massy foundation-stones of the Capitoline Temple, which
+     were laid by Tarquinius the Proud, to a single pillar erected in
+     honour of Phocas, the eastern emperor, in the fifth century. What
+     the fragments of pillars belonged to, perhaps we can never know;
+     but that I think matters little. I care not whether it was a temple
+     of Jupiter Stator or the Basilica Julia, but one knows that one is
+     on the ground of the Forum, under the Capitol, the place where the
+     tribes assembled, and the orators spoke; the scene, in short, of
+     all the internal struggles of the Roman people."--_Arnold's
+     Journal._
+
+     "They passed the solitary column of Phocas, and looked down into
+     the excavated space, where a confusion of pillars, arches,
+     pavements, and shattered blocks and shafts--the crumbs of various
+     ruins dropt from the devouring maw of Time--stand, or lie, at the
+     base of the Capitoline Hill. That renowned hillock (for it is
+     little more) now rose abruptly above them. The ponderous masonry,
+     with which the hillside is built up, is as old as Rome itself, and
+     looks likely to endure while the world retains any substance or
+     permanence. It once sustained the Capitol, and now bears up the
+     great pile which the mediæval builders raised on the antique
+     foundation, and that still loftier tower, which looks abroad upon a
+     larger page of deeper historic interest than any other scene can
+     show. On the same pedestal of Roman masonry, other structures will
+     doubtless arise, and vanish like ephemeral things.
+
+     "To a spectator on the spot, it is remarkable that the events of
+     Roman history, and of Roman life itself, appear not so distant as
+     the Gothic ages which succeeded them. We stand in the Forum, or on
+     the height of the Capitol, and seem to see the Roman epoch close at
+     hand. We forget that a chasm extends between it and ourselves, in
+     which lie all those dark, rude, unlettered centuries, around the
+     birthtime of Christianity, as well as the age of chivalry and
+     romance, the feudal system, and the infancy of a better
+     civilization than that of Rome. Or, if we remember these mediæval
+     times, they look further off than the Augustan age. The reason may
+     be, that the old Roman literature survives, and creates for us an
+     intimacy with the classic ages, which we have no means of forming
+     with the subsequent ones.
+
+     "The Italian climate, moreover, robs age of its reverence, and
+     makes it look nearer than it is. Not the Coliseum, nor the tombs of
+     the Appian Way, nor the oldest pillar in the Forum, nor any other
+     Roman ruin, be it as dilapidated as it may, ever give the
+     impression of venerable antiquity which we gather, along with the
+     ivy, from the grey walls of an English abbey or castle. And yet
+     every brick and stone, which we pick up among the former, had
+     fallen, ages before the foundation of the latter was
+     begun."--_Hawthorne, Transformation._
+
+     "A Rome, vous marchez sur les pierres qui ont été les dieux de
+     César et de Pompée: vous considérez la ruine de ces grands
+     ouvrages, dont la vieillesse est encore belle, et vous vous
+     promènerez tous les jours parmi les histoires et les fables.... Il
+     n'y à que Rome où la vie soit agréable, où le corps trouve ses
+     plaisirs et l'esprit les siens, où l'on est à la source des belles
+     choses. Rome est cause que vous n'êtes plus barbares, elle vous a
+     appris la civilité et la religion.... Il est certain que je ne
+     monte jamais au Palatin ni au Capitole que je n'y change d'esprit,
+     et qu'il ne me vienne d'autres pensées que les miennes ordinaires.
+     Cet air m'inspire quelque chose de grand et de généreux que je
+     n'avais point auparavant: si je rêve deux heures au bord du Tibre,
+     je suis aussi savant que si j'avais étudié huit jours."--_Balzac._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Before leaving the Forum we must turn from its classical to its mediæval
+remains, and examine the very interesting group of churches which have
+sprung up amid its ruins.
+
+Almost opposite the Mamertine Prisons, surmounted by a handsome dome, is
+the _Church of Sta. Martina_, which contains the original model,
+bequeathed by the sculptor Thorwaldsen, of his Copenhagen statue of
+Christ in the act of benediction. The opposite transept contains a very
+inferior statue of Religion by _Canova_. The figure of Sta. Martina by
+_Guerini_ reposes beneath the high altar. The subterranean church is
+well worth visiting. An ante-chapel adorned with statues of four virgin
+martyrs leads to a chapel erected at the cost and from the designs of
+Pietro da Cortona, whose tomb stands near its entrance, with a fine bust
+by _Bernini_. In the centre of the inner chapel lamps are burning round
+the magnificent bronze altar which covers the shrine of Sta. Martina,
+and beneath it, you can discover the martyr's tomb by the light of a
+torch which a monk lets down through a hole. In the tribune is an
+ancient throne. A side chapel contains the grave in which the body of
+the virgin saint, with three other martyrs, her companions, was found in
+1634: it is adorned with a fine bas-relief by _Algardi_.
+
+     "At the foot of the Capitoline hill, on the left hand as we descend
+     from the Ara Coeli into the Forum, there stood in very ancient
+     times a small chapel dedicated to Sta. Martina, a Roman virgin, who
+     was martyred in the persecution under Alexander Severus. The
+     veneration paid to her was of very early date, and the Roman people
+     were accustomed to assemble there on the first day of the year.
+     This observance was, however, confined to the people, and not very
+     general till 1634; an era which connects her in rather an
+     interesting manner with the history of art. In this year, as they
+     were about to repair her chapel, they discovered, walled into the
+     foundations, a sarcophagus of terra-cotta, in which was the body of
+     a young female, whose severed head reposed in a separate casket.
+     These remains were very naturally supposed to be those of the saint
+     who had been so long venerated on that spot. The discovery was
+     hailed with the utmost exultation, not by the people only, but by
+     those who led the minds and consciences of the people. The pope
+     himself, Urban VIII., composed hymns in her praise; and Cardinal
+     Francesco Barberini undertook to rebuild her church. Amongst those
+     who shared the general enthusiasm was the painter, Pietro da
+     Cortona, who was at Rome at the time, who very earnestly dedicated
+     himself and his powers to the glorification of Sta. Martina. Her
+     church had already been given to the Academy of Painters, and
+     consecrated to St. Luke, their patron saint. It is now 'San Luca
+     and Santa Martina.' Pietro da Cortona erected at his own cost, the
+     chapel of Sta. Martina, and when he died, endowed it with his whole
+     fortune. He painted for the altarpiece his best picture, in which
+     the saint is represented as triumphing over the idols, while the
+     temple in which she has been led to sacrifice, is struck by
+     lightning from heaven, and falls in ruins around her. In a votive
+     picture of Sta. Martina kneeling at the feet of the Virgin and
+     Child, she is represented as very young and lovely; near her, a
+     horrid instrument of torture, a two-pronged fork with barbed
+     extremities, and the lictor's axe, signifying the manner of her
+     death."--_Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art._
+
+The feast of the saint is observed here on Jan. 30, with much solemnity.
+Then in all the Roman churches is sung the Hymn of Sta. Martina--
+
+    "Martinæ celebri plaudite nomini,
+    Cives Romulei, plaudite gloriæ;
+    Insignem mentis dicite virginem,
+    Christi dicite martyrem.
+
+    Hæc dum conspicuis orta parentibus
+    Inter delicias, inter amabiles
+    Luxus illecebras, ditibus affluit
+    Faustæ muneribus domus.
+
+    Vitæ despiciens commoda, dedicat
+    Se rerum Domino, et munifica manu
+    Christi pauperibus distribuens opes
+    Quærit præmia coelitum.
+
+    A nobis abigas lubrica gaudia
+    Tu, qui martyribus dexter ades,
+    Deus
+    Une et trine: tuis da famulis jubar,
+    Quo clemens animos beas. Amen."
+
+There is nothing especial to notice in _S. Adriano_, which is built in
+the ruins of the basilica of Emilius Paulus, or in _S. Lorenzo in
+Miranda_, which occupies the temple of Antoninus and Faustina, but _Sta.
+Maria Liberatrice_, built on the site of the house of Numa and the
+convent of the Vestals, commemorates by its name a curious legend of the
+fourth century. On this site, it is said, dwelt in a cave, a terrible
+dragon who had slain three hundred persons with the poison of his
+breath. Into this cave, instructed thereto by St. Peter, and entrusting
+himself to the care of the Virgin, descended St. Silvester the Pope,
+attended by two acolytes bearing torches, and here, having pronounced
+the name of Christ, he was miraculously enabled to bind the dragon, and
+to shut him up till the day of Judgment. But when he ascended in safety,
+he found at the mouth of the cave two magicians who had followed him in
+the hope of discovering some imposture, dying from the poison of the
+dragon's breath,--and these also he saved alive.
+
+We now reach the circular building which has been so long known as the
+temple of Remus. To the right of the entrance are two pillars of
+cipolino, almost buried in the soil. The porphyry pillars at the
+entrance, supporting a richly sculptured cornice, were probably set up
+in their present position when the temple was turned into a church. The
+bronze doors were brought from Perugia. If, as is now supposed, the
+temple on this site was that of the Penates, the protectors against all
+kinds of illness and misfortune, the modern dedication to the protecting
+physicians Cosmo and Damian may have had some reference to that which
+went before.
+
+The Church of _SS. Cosmo and Damiano_ was founded within the ancient
+temple by Pope Felix IV. in 527, and restored by Adrian I. in 780. In
+1633 the whole building was modernized by Urban VIII., who, in order to
+raise it to the present level of the soil, cut the ancient church in
+half by the vaulting which now divides the upper and lower churches. To
+visit the lower church a monk must be summoned, who will bring a torch.
+This is well worth while. It is of great size, and contains a curious
+well into which Christian martyrs in the time of Nero are said to have
+been precipitated. The tomb of the martyrs Cosmo and Damian is beneath
+the altar, which is formed of beautiful transparent marble. Under a side
+altar is the grave of Felix IV. The third and lowest church (the
+_original_ crypt) which is very small, is said to have been a place of
+refuge during the early Christian persecutions. Here is shown the altar
+at which Felix IV. celebrated mass while his converts were hiding
+here--the grave in which the body of the pope was afterwards
+discovered--and a miraculous spring, still flowing, which is said to
+have burst forth in answer to his prayers that he might have wherewithal
+to baptize his disciples. A passage which formerly led from hence to the
+Catacombs of St. Sebastian, was walled up, twenty years ago, by the
+paternal government, because twenty persons were lost in it. In this
+crypt were found the famous "Pianta Capitolina," now preserved in the
+Capitol. In the upper church, on the right of the entrance from the
+circular vestibule into the body of the building is this inscription--
+
+     "L'imagine di Madonna Santissima che esiste all'altar magg. parlò a
+     S. Gregorio Papa dicendogli, 'Perchè piu non mi saluti mentre
+     passando eri solito salutarmi?' Il santo domandò perdona e concesse
+     a quelli che celebrano in quell'altare la liberazione dell'anima
+     dal purgatorio, cioé per quell'anima per la quale si celebra la
+     messa."[63]
+
+Another inscription narrates--
+
+     "Gregorius primus concessit omnibus et singulis visitantibus
+     ecclesiam istam sanctorum Cosmæ et Damiani mille annos de
+     indulgentia, et in die stationis ejusdem ecclesiæ idem Gregorius
+     concessit decem millia annorum de indulgentia."
+
+Among the many relics preserved in this church are, "Una ampulla lactis
+Beatæ Mariæ Virginis"; "De Domo Sanctæ Mariæ Magdalenæ"; "De Domo Sancti
+Zachariæ profeta!"
+
+Deserving of the most minute attention is the grand mosaic of
+Christ--coming on the clouds of sunset.
+
+     "The mosaics of SS. Cosmo and Damian (A.D. 526--530) are the finest
+     of ancient Christian Rome. Above the arch appear, on each side of
+     the Lamb, four angels, of excellent but somewhat severe style; then
+     follow various apocalyptic emblems: a modern walling up having left
+     but few traces of the four and twenty elders. A gold surface,
+     dimmed by age, with little purple clouds, forms the background:
+     though in Rome, at least, at both an earlier and later date, a blue
+     ground prevailed. In the apsis itself, upon a dark blue ground,
+     with golden-edged clouds, is seen the colossal figure of Christ;
+     the right hand raised, either in benediction or teaching, the left
+     holding a written scroll; above is the hand, which is the emblem of
+     the First Person of the Trinity. Below, on each side, the apostles
+     Peter and Paul are leading SS. Cosmo and Damiano, each with crowns
+     on their heads, towards the Saviour, followed by St. Theodore on
+     the right, and by Pope Felix IV., the founder of the church, on the
+     left. This latter, unfortunately, is an entirely restored figure.
+     Two palm-trees, sparkling with gold, above one of which appears the
+     emblem of eternity, the phoenix--with a star-shaped nimbus, close
+     the composition on each side. Further below, indicated by
+     water-plants, sparkling also with gold, is the river Jordan. The
+     figure of Christ may be regarded as one of the most marvellous
+     specimens of the art of the middle ages. Countenance, attitude, and
+     drapery combine to give him an expression of quiet majesty, which,
+     for many centuries after, is not found again in equal beauty and
+     freedom. The drapery, especially, is disposed in noble folds, and
+     only in its somewhat too ornate details is a further departure from
+     the antique observable. The saints are not as yet arranged in stiff
+     parallel forms, but are advancing forward, so that their figures
+     appear somewhat distorted, while we already remark something
+     constrained and inanimate in their step. The apostles Peter and
+     Paul wear the usual ideal costume. SS. Cosmo and Damiano are
+     attired in the late Roman dress: violet mantles, in gold stuff,
+     with red embroideries of oriental barbaric effect. Otherwise the
+     chief motives of the drapery are of great beauty, though somewhat
+     too abundant in folds. The high lights are brought out by gold and
+     other sparkling materials, producing a gorgeous play of colour
+     which relieves the figures vigorously from the dark blue
+     background. Altogether, a feeling for colour is here displayed, of
+     which no later mosaics with gold grounds give any idea. The heads,
+     with the exception of the principal figure, are animated and
+     individual, though without any particular depth of expression;
+     somewhat elderly, also, in physiognomy, but still far removed from
+     any Byzantine stiffness; St. Peter has already the bald head, and
+     St. Paul the short brown hair and dark beard, by which they were
+     afterwards recognizable. Under this chief composition, on a gold
+     ground, is seen the Lamb upon a hill, with the four rivers of
+     Paradise, and the twelve sheep on either hand. The great care of
+     execution is seen in the five or six gradations of tints which the
+     artist has adopted."--_Kugler._
+
+SS. Cosmo and Damian, to whom this church is dedicated, were two Arabian
+physicians who exercised their art from charity. They suffered under
+Diocletian. "First they were thrown into the sea, but an angel saved
+them; and then into the fire, but the fire refused to burn them; then
+they were bound to crosses and stoned, but the stones either fell
+harmless or rebounded on their executioners and killed them, so then the
+pro-consul Lycias, believing them to be sorcerers, commanded that they
+should be beheaded, and thus they died." SS. Cosmo and Damian were the
+patron saints of the Medici, and their gilt statues were carried in
+state at the coronation of Leo X. (Giovanni de' Medici). Their fame is
+general in many parts of France, where their fête is celebrated by a
+village fair--children who ask for their fairing of a toy or gingerbread
+calling it their "St. Côme."
+
+     "It is related that a certain man, who was afflicted with a cancer
+     in his leg, went to perform his devotions in the Church SS. Cosmo
+     and Damian at Rome, and he prayed most earnestly that these
+     beneficent saints would be pleased to aid him. When he had prayed,
+     a deep sleep fell upon him. Then he beheld St. Cosmo and St.
+     Damian, who stood beside him; and one carried a box of ointments,
+     and the other a sharp knife. And one said, 'What shall we do to
+     replace this diseased leg when we have cut it off?' And the other
+     replied, 'There is a Moor who has been buried just now at St.
+     Pietro in Vincoli; let us take his leg for the purpose.' So they
+     brought the leg of the dead man, and with it they replaced the leg
+     of the sick man; anointing it with celestial ointment, so that he
+     remained whole. When he awoke he almost doubted whether it could be
+     himself; but his neighbours, seeing that he was healed, looked into
+     the tomb of the Moor, and found that there had been an exchange of
+     legs: and thus the truth of this great miracle was proved to all
+     beholders."--_Mrs. Jameson, from the Legenda Aurea._
+
+Just beyond the basilica of Constantine, stands the _Church of Sta.
+Francesca Romana_, which is full of interest. It was first built by St.
+Sylvester on the site of the temple of Venus and dedicated to the
+Virgin, under the title of Sta. Maria Antica. It was rebuilt in A.D. 872
+by John VIII., who resided in the adjoining monastery during his
+pontificate. An ancient picture attributed to St. Luke, brought from
+Troy in 1100, was the only object in this church which was preserved
+when the building was totally destroyed by fire in 1216, after which the
+church, then called Sta. Maria Nuova, was restored by Honorius III.
+During the restoration, the picture was kept at S. Adriano, and its
+being brought back led to a contest amongst the people, which was ended
+by a child exclaiming--"What are you doing? the Madonna is already in
+her own church." She had betaken herself thither none knew how.
+
+In the twelfth century the church was given to the Lateran Canons, in
+the fourteenth to the Olivetan monks; under Eugenius IV., the latter
+extended their boundaries so far that they included the Coliseum, but
+their walls were forced down in the succeeding pontificate. Gregory XI.,
+Paul II., and Cæsar Borgia, were cardinals of Sta. Maria Novella. In
+1440 the name was changed to that of Sta. Francesca Romana, when that
+saint, Francesca de' Ponziani, foundress of the Order of Oblates, was
+buried here. Her tomb was erected in 1640 by Donna Agata Pamfili, sister
+of Innocent X., herself an Oblate. It is from the designs of Bernini,
+and is rich in marbles. The figure was not added till 1868.
+
+     "After the death of Francesca, her body remained during a night and
+     a day at the Ponziani Palace, the Oblates watching by turns over
+     the beloved remains.... Francesca's face, which had recently borne
+     traces of age and suffering, became as beautiful again as in the
+     days of youth and prosperity; and the astonished bystanders gazed
+     with wonder and awe at her unearthly loveliness. Many of them
+     carried away particles from her clothes, and employed them for the
+     cure of several persons who had been considered beyond the
+     possibility of recovery. In the course of the day the crowd
+     augmented to a degree which alarmed the inhabitants of the palace,
+     Battista Ponziani took measures to have the body removed at once to
+     the church, and a procession of the regular and secular clergy
+     escorted the venerated remains to Santa Maria Nuova, where they
+     were to be interred.
+
+     "The popular feeling burst forth on the occasion; it was no longer
+     to be restrained. Francesca was invoked by the crowd, and her
+     beloved name was heard in every street, in every piazza, in every
+     corner of the Eternal City. It flew from mouth to mouth, it seemed
+     to float in the air, to be borne aloft by the grateful enthusiasm
+     of a whole people, who had seen her walk to that church by her
+     mother's side in her holy childhood; who had seen her kneel at that
+     altar in the grave beauty of womanhood, in the hour of bereavement,
+     and now in death, carried thither in state, she the gentle, the
+     humble saint of Rome, the poor woman of the Trastevere, as she was
+     sometimes called at her own desire."--_Lady G. Fullerton's Life of
+     Sta. Francesca Romana._
+
+A chapel on the right of the church contains the monument of Cardinal
+Vulcani, 1322, supporting his figure, with Faith, Hope, and Charity
+sculptured in high relief below. Near the door is that of Cardinal
+Adimari, 1432, who died here after an ineffectual mission to the
+anti-pope Pedro da' Luna. In the left transept was a fine Perugino
+(removed 1867); in the right transept is the tomb of Pope Gregory XI.,
+by Pietro Paolo Olivieri, erected by the senate in gratitude for his
+having restored the papal court to Rome from Avignon. A bas-relief
+represents his triumphal entry, with St. Catherine of Siena, by whose
+entreaties he was induced to return, walking before his mule. A breach
+in the walls indicates the ruinous state into which Rome had fallen, the
+chair of St. Peter is represented as floating back through the air,
+while an angel carries the papal tiara and keys; a metaphorical figure
+of Rome is coming forth to welcome the pope.
+
+     "The greatest part of the praise due to Gregory's return to Rome
+     belongs to St. Catherine of Siena, who, with infinite courage,
+     travelled to Avignon, and persuaded the pope to return, and by his
+     presence to dispel the evils which disgraced Italy, in consequence
+     of the absence of the popes. Thus it is not to be wondered at, that
+     those writers, who rightly understand the matter, should have said
+     that Catherine, the virgin of Siena, brought back to God the
+     abandoned apostolical chair upon her shoulders."--_Ughelli, Ital.
+     Sacra_, vi. col. 45.
+
+Near Pope Gregory's tomb some blackened marks in the wall are shown as
+holes made by the (gigantic) knees of St. Peter, when he knelt to pray
+that Simon Magus might be dropped by the demons he had invoked to
+support him in the air, which he is said to have done to show his power
+on this spot.
+
+     "When the error of Simon was spreading farther and farther, the
+     illustrious pair of men, Peter and Paul, the rulers of the Church,
+     arrested it by going thither, who suddenly exhibited as dead,
+     Simon, the putative God, on his appearance. For when Simon declared
+     that he would ascend aloft into heaven, the servants of God cast
+     him headlong to the earth, and though this occurrence was wonderful
+     in itself, it was not wonderful under the circumstances, for it was
+     Peter who did it, he who bears with him the keys of heaven, ... it
+     was Paul who did it, he who was caught up into the third
+     heaven."--_St. Cyril of Jerusalem._
+
+     "Simon promised to fly, and thus ascend to the heavenly abodes. On
+     the day agreed upon, he went to the Capitoline hill, and throwing
+     himself from the rock, began his ascent. Then Peter, standing in
+     the midst, said, 'O Lord Jesus, show him that his arts are in
+     vain.' Hardly had the words been uttered, when the wings which
+     Simon had made use of became entangled, and he fell. His thigh was
+     fractured, never to be healed,--and some time afterwards, the
+     unhappy man died at Aretia, whither he had retired after his
+     discomfiture."--_St. Ambrose._[64]
+
+     "There can be no doubt that there existed in the first century a
+     Simon, a Samaritan, a pretender to divine authority and
+     supernatural powers; who, for a time, had many followers; who stood
+     in a certain relation to Christianity; and who may have held some
+     opinions more or less similar to those entertained by the most
+     famous heretics of the early ages, the Gnostics. Irenæus calls this
+     Simon the father of all heretics. 'All those,' he says, 'who in any
+     way corrupt the truth, or mar the preaching of the Church, are
+     disciples and successors of Simon, the Samaritan magician.' Simon
+     gave himself forth as a God, and carried about with him a beautiful
+     woman named Helena, whom he represented as the first conception of
+     his--that is, of the divine--mind, the symbol and manifestation of
+     that portion of spirituality which had become entangled in
+     matter."--_Jameson's Sacred Art_, p. 204.
+
+The vault of the tribune is covered with mosaics.
+
+     "The restored tribune mosaics (A.D. 858--887, during the
+     pontificate of Nicholas I.), close the list of Roman Byzantine
+     works. By their time it had become apparent that such figures as
+     the art of the day was alone able to achieve, could have no
+     possible relation to each other, and therefore no longer constitute
+     a composition; the artists accordingly separated the Madonna on the
+     throne, and the four saints with uplifted hands, by graceful
+     arcades. The ground is gold, the nimbuses blue. The faces consist
+     only of feeble lines--the cheeks are only red blotches; the folds
+     merely dark strokes; nevertheless a certain flow and fulness in the
+     forms, and the character of a few accessories (for instance, the
+     exchange of a crown upon the Virgin's head for the invariable
+     Byzantine veil), seem to indicate that we have not so much to do
+     here with the decline of Byzantine art, as with a northern and
+     probably Frankish influence."--_Kugler._
+
+The convent attached to this church was the abode of Tasso during his
+first visit to Rome.
+
+Behind Sta. Francesca Romana, and facing the Coliseum, are the remains
+generally known as the _Temple of Venus and Rome_, also called Templum
+Urbis (now sometimes called by objectors the "Portico of Livia"), which,
+if this name is the correct one, was originally planned by the Emperor
+Hadrian to rival the Forum of Trajan, erected by the architect
+Apollodorus. It was built upon a site previously occupied by the atrium
+of Nero's Golden House. Little remains standing except a cella facing
+the Coliseum, and another in the cloisters of the adjoining convent
+(these, perhaps, being restorations by Maxentius, _c._ 307, after a fire
+had destroyed most of the building of Hadrian), but the surrounding
+grassy height is positively littered with fragments of the grey granite
+columns which once formed the grand portico (400 by 200 feet) of the
+building. A large mass of Corinthian cornice remains near the cella
+facing the Coliseum. This was the last pagan temple which remained in
+use in Rome.[65] It was only closed by Theodosius in 391, and remained
+entire till 625, when Pope Honorius carried off the bronze tiles of its
+roof to St. Peter's.
+
+    "Ac sacram resonare viam mugitibus, ante
+    Delubrum Romæ; colitur nam sanguine et ipsa
+    More deæ, nomenque loci, ceu numen, habetur.
+    Atque Urbis, Venerisque pari se culmine tollunt
+    Templa, simul geminis adolentur thura deabus."
+
+    _Prudentius contr. Symm._ v. 214.
+
+     "When about to construct his magnificent temple of Venus and Rome,
+     Hadrian produced a design of his own and showed it with proud
+     satisfaction to the architect Apollodorus. The creator of the
+     Trajan column remarked with a sneer that the deities, if they rose
+     from their seats, must thrust their heads through the ceiling. The
+     emperor, we are assured, could not forgive this banter; but we can
+     hardly take to the letter the statement that he put his critic to
+     death for it."--_Merivale_, ch. lxvi.
+
+In front of this temple stood the bronze statue of Cloelia, mentioned
+by Livy and Seneca, and (till the sixth century) the bronze elephants
+mentioned by Cassiodorus. Nearer the Coliseum may still be seen the
+remains of the foundation prepared by Hadrian for the _Colossal Statue
+of Nero_, executed in bronze by Zenodorus. This statue was twice moved,
+first by Vespasian, in A.D. 75, that it might face the chief entrance of
+his amphitheatre,[66] whose plan had been already laid out. At the same
+time--though it was a striking likeness of Nero--its head was surrounded
+with rays that it might represent Apollo. In its second position it is
+described by Martial:
+
+    "Hic ubi sidereus propius videt astra colossus
+      Et crescunt media pegmata celsa via,
+    Invidiosa feri radiabant atria regis,
+      Unaque jam tota stabat in urbe domus."
+
+    _De Spect._ ii.
+
+It was again moved (with the aid of forty-two elephants), a few yards
+further north, by Hadrian, when he built his temple of Venus and Rome.
+Pliny describes the colossus as 110, Dion Cassius as 100 feet high.
+
+     "Hadrian employed an architect named Decrianus to remove the
+     colossus of Nero, the face of which had been altered into a Sol. He
+     does not seem to have accomplished the design of Apollodorus to
+     erect a companion statue of Luna."--_Merivale_, ch. lxvi.
+
+Near the Church of Sta. Francesca the Via Sacra passes under the _Arch
+of Titus_, which, even in its restored condition, is the most beautiful
+monument of the kind remaining in Rome. Its Christian interest is
+unrivalled, from its having been erected by the senate to commemorate
+the taking of Jerusalem, and from its bas-reliefs of the seven-branched
+candlestick and other treasures of the Jewish Temple. In mediæval times
+it was called the Arch of the Seven Candlesticks (septem lucernarum)
+from the bas-relief of the candlestick, concerning which Gregorovius
+remarks, that the fantastic figures carved upon it prove that it was
+_not_ an exact likeness of that which came from Jerusalem. The
+bas-reliefs are now greatly mutilated, but they are shown in their
+perfect state in a drawing of Giuliano di Sangallo. On the frieze is the
+sacred river Jordan, as an aged man, borne on a bier. The arch, which
+was in a very ruinous condition, had been engrafted in the middle ages
+into a fortress tower called Turris Cartularia, and so it remained till
+the present century. This tower originally formed the entrance to the
+vast fortress of the powerful Frangipani family, which included the
+Coliseum and a great part of the Palatine and Coelian hills; and here,
+above the gate, Pope Urban II. dwelt in 1093, under the protection of
+Giovanni Frangipani. The arch was repaired by Pius VII., who replaced in
+travertine the lost marble portions at the top and sides.
+
+     "Standing beneath the arch of Titus, and amid so much ancient dust,
+     it is difficult to forbear the commonplaces of enthusiasm, on which
+     hundreds of tourists have already insisted. Over the half-worn
+     pavement, and beneath this arch, the Roman armies had trodden in
+     their outward march, to fight battles, a world's width away.
+     Returning victorious, with royal captives, and inestimable spoil, a
+     Roman triumph, that most gorgeous pageant of earthly pride, has
+     streamed and flaunted in hundred-fold succession over these same
+     flagstones, and through this yet stalwart archway. It is politic,
+     however, to make few allusions to such a past; nor is it wise to
+     suggest how Cicero's feet may have stepped on yonder stone, or how
+     Horace was wont to stroll near by, making his footsteps chime with
+     the measure of the ode that was ringing in his mind. The very
+     ghosts of that massive and stately epoch have so much density that
+     the people of to-day seem the thinner of the two, and stand more
+     ghost-like by the arches and columns, letting the rich sculpture be
+     discerned through their ill-compacted substance."--_Hawthorne,
+     Transformation._
+
+     "We passed on to the arch of Titus. Amongst the reliefs there is
+     the figure of a man bearing the golden candlestick from the Temple
+     at Jerusalem, as one of the spoils of the triumph. Yet He who
+     abandoned His visible and local temple to the hands of the heathen
+     for the sins of His nominal worshippers, has taken to Him His great
+     power, and has gotten Him glory by destroying the idols of Rome as
+     He had done the idols of Babylon; and the golden candlestick burns
+     and shall burn with an everlasting light, while the enemies of His
+     holy name, Babylon, Rome, or the carcass of sin in every land,
+     which the eagles of His wrath will surely find out, perish for ever
+     from before Him."--_Arnold's Journal._
+
+     "The Jewish trophies are sculptured in bas-relief on the inside of
+     the arch beneath the vaulting. Opposite to these is another
+     bas-relief representing Titus in the quadriga, the reins borne by
+     the goddess Roma. In the centre of the arch, Titus is borne to
+     heaven by an eagle. It may be conjectured that these ornaments to
+     his glory were designed after the death of Vespasian, and completed
+     after his own.... These witnesses to the truth of history are
+     scanned at this day by Christians passing to and fro between the
+     Coliseum and the Forum; and at this day the Jew refuses to walk
+     beneath them, and creeps stealthily by the side, with downcast
+     eyes, or countenance averted."--_Merivale, Romans under the
+     Empire_, vii. 250.
+
+     "The restoration of the arch of Titus reflects the greatest credit
+     on the commission appointed by Pius VII. for the restoration of
+     ancient edifices. This, not only beautiful, but precious monument,
+     had been made the nucleus of a hideous castellated fort by the
+     Frangipani family. Its masonry, however, embraced and held
+     together, as well as crushed, the marble arch; so that on freeing
+     it from its rude buttresses there was fear of its collapsing, and
+     it had first to be well bound together by props and bracing beams,
+     a process in which the Roman architects are unrivalled. The simple
+     expedient was then adopted by the architect Stern of completing the
+     arch in stone; for its sides had been removed. Thus increased in
+     solid structure, which continued all the architectural lines, and
+     renewed its proportions to the mutilated centre, the arch was both
+     completely secured and almost restored to its pristine
+     elegance."--_Wiseman's Life of Pius VII._
+
+The processions of the popes going to the Lateran for their solemn
+installation, used to halt beside the arch of Titus while a Jew
+presented a copy of the Pentateuch, with a humble oath of fealty. This
+humiliating ceremony was omitted for the first time at the installation
+of Pius IX.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+At this point it may not be inappropriate to notice two other buildings,
+which, though situated on the Palatine, are totally disconnected with
+the other objects occupying that hill.
+
+A lane runs up to the right from the arch of Titus. On the left is a
+gateway, surmounted by a faded fresco of St. Sebastian. Here is the
+entrance to a wild and beautiful garden, possessing most lovely views of
+the various ruins, occupying the site of the gardens of Adonis. This is
+the place where St. Sebastian underwent his (so-called) martyrdom, and
+will call to mind the many fine pictures, scattered over Europe, of the
+youthful and beautiful saint, bound to a tree, and pierced with arrows.
+The finest of these are the Domenichino, in Sta. Maria degli Angeli, and
+the Sodoma at Florence. He is sometimes represented as bound to an
+orange tree, and sometimes, as in the Guido at Bologna, to a cypress,
+like those we still see on this spot. Here was an important Benedictine
+Convent, where Pope Boniface IV. was a monk before his election to the
+papacy, and where the famous abbots of Monte Casino had their Roman
+residence. Here, in 1118, fifty-one cardinals took refuge, and elected
+Gelasius II. as Pope. The only building remaining is the _Church of Sta.
+Maria Pallara_ or _S. Sebastiano_, containing some curious inscriptions
+relating to events which have occurred here, and--in the tribune,
+frescoes, of the Saviour in benediction with four saints, and below,
+two other groups representing the Virgin with saints and angels, placed,
+as we learn by the inscription beneath, by one Benedict--probably an
+abbot.
+
+Further up the lane a "Via Crucis" leads to the _Church of S.
+Buonaventura_, "the seraphic doctor" (Cardinal and Bishop of Albano, ob.
+July 14, 1274), who in childhood was raised from the point of death
+(1221) by the prayers of St. Francis, who was so surprised when he came
+to life, that he involuntarily exclaimed, "O buona ventura"--("what a
+happy chance")--whence the name by which he was afterwards known.[67]
+
+The little church contains several good modern monuments. Beneath the
+altar is shown the body of the Blessed Leonardo of Porto-Maurizio (ob.
+1751), who arranged the Via Crucis in the Coliseum, and who is much
+revered by the ultra-Romanists for having prophesied the proclamation of
+the dogma of the Immaculate Conception. The crucifix and the picture of
+the Madonna which he carried with him in his missions, are preserved in
+niches on either side of the tribune, and many other relics of him are
+shown in his cell in the adjoining convent of Minor Franciscans. Entered
+through the convent is a lovely little garden, whence there is a grand
+view of the Coliseum, and where a little fountain is shaded by two tall
+palm trees.
+
+     "Oswald went next to the monastery of S. Buenaventura, built on the
+     ruins of Nero's palace. There, where so many crimes had reigned
+     remorselessly, poor friars, tormented by conscientious scruples,
+     doom themselves to fasts and stripes for the least omission of
+     duty. 'Our only hope,' said one, 'is that when we die, our faults
+     will not have exceeded our penances.' Nevill, as he entered,
+     stumbled over a trap, and asked its purpose. 'It is through that we
+     are interred,' answered one of the youngest, already a prey to the
+     bad air. The natives of the south fear death so much that it is
+     wondrous to find there these perpetual mementoes; yet nature is
+     often fascinated by what she dreads, and such an intoxication fills
+     the soul exclusively. The antique sarcophagus of a child serves as
+     the fountain of this institution. The boasted palm of Rome is the
+     only tree of its garden."--_Madame de Staël, Corinne._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The arch of Titus is spoken of as being "in summa _Via Sacra_," as the
+street was called which led from the southern gate of Rome to the
+Capitol, and by which the victorious generals passed in their triumphant
+processions to the temple of Jupiter. Between the arch of Titus and the
+Coliseum, the ancient pavement of this famous road, composed of huge
+polygonal blocks of lava, has been allowed to remain. Here we may
+imagine Horace taking his favourite walk.
+
+    "Ibam forte Via Sacrâ, sicut meus est mos,
+    Nescio quid meditans nugarum, et totus in illis."
+
+    _Sat._ i. 9.
+
+It appears to have been the favourite resort of the _flaneurs_ of the
+day:
+
+    "Videsne, Sacram metiente te viam
+      Cum bis ter ulnarum togâ,
+    Ut ora vertat huc et huc euntium
+      Liberrima indignatio?"
+
+    _Horace, Epod._ 4.
+
+The Via Sacra was originally bordered with shops, some of which,
+together with some baths, have been unearthed on the right of the road.
+Ovid alludes frequently to the purchases which might be made there in
+his time. In this especial part of the Via was the market for fruit and
+honey.[68]
+
+    "Dum bene dives ager, dum rami pondere nutant;
+      Adferat in calatho rustica dona puer.
+    Rure suburbano poteris tibi dicere missa;
+      Illa vel in Sacra sint licet empta Via."
+
+    _Ovid, Art. Aman._ ii. 263.
+
+At the foot of the hill are the remains of the bason and the brick cone
+of a fountain called _Meta Sudans_, where the gladiators used to wash.
+Seneca, who lived in this neighbourhood, complains (Epist. lvi.) of the
+noise which was made by a showman who blew his trumpet close to this
+fountain.
+
+On the right the Via Triumphalis leads to the Via Appia, passing under
+the _Arch of Constantine_. The lower bas-reliefs upon this arch, which
+are crude and ill-designed, refer to the deeds of Constantine; but the
+upper, of fine workmanship, illustrate the life of Trajan, which has led
+some to imagine that the arch was originally erected in honour of
+Trajan, and afterwards appropriated by Constantine. They were, however,
+removed from an arch of Trajan (whose ruins existed in 1430[69]), and
+were appropriated by Constantine for his own arch.
+
+     "Constantin a enlevé à un arc de triomphe de Trajan les statues de
+     prisonniers daces que l'on voit au sommet du sien. Ce vol a été
+     puni au seizième siècle, car, dans ce qui semble un accès de folie,
+     Lorenzino, le bizarre assassin d'Alexandre de Médicis a décapité
+     toutes les statues qui surmontaient l'arche Constantin, moins une,
+     la seule dont la tête soit antique. Heureusement on a dans les
+     musées, à Rome et ailleurs, bon nombre de ces statues de captifs
+     barbares avec le même costume, c'est-à-dire le pantalon et le
+     bonnet, souvent les mains liées, dans une attitude de soumission
+     morne, quelque fois avec une expression de sombre fierté, car l'art
+     romain avait la noblesse de ne pas humilier les vaincus; il ne les
+     représentait point à genoux, foulés aux pieds par leurs vainqueurs;
+     on ne donnait pas à leurs traits étranges un aspect qu'on eût pu
+     rendre hideux; on les plaçait sur le sommet des arcs de triomphe,
+     debout, la tête baissée, l'air triste."
+
+    "'Summus tristis captivus in arcu.'"
+
+    _Ampère, Emp._ ii. 169.
+
+
+The arch was further plundered by Clement VIII., who carried off one of
+its eight Corinthian columns to finish a chapel at the Lateran. They
+were formerly _all_ of giallo-antico. But it is still the most striking
+and beautiful of the Roman arches.
+
+     "L'inscription gravée sur l'arc de Constantin est curieuse par le
+     vague de l'expression en ce qui touche aux idées religieuses, par
+     l'indécision calculée des termes dont se servait un sénat qui
+     voulait éviter de se compromettre dans un sens comme dans l'autre.
+     L'inscription porte que cet arc a été dédié a l'empereur parcequ'il
+     a délivré la république d'un tyran (on dit encore la république!)
+     par la grandeur de son âme et une inspiration de la Divinité,
+     _instinctu Divinitatis_. Il parait même que ces mots ont été
+     ajoutés après coup pour remplacer une formule peut-être plus
+     explicitement païenne. Ce monument, qui célèbre le triomphe de
+     Constantin, ne proclame donc pas encore nettement le triomphe du
+     Christianisme. Comment s'en étonner, quand sur les monnaies de cet
+     empereur on voit d'un côté le monogramme du Christ et l'autre
+     l'effigie de Rome, qui était une divinité pour les
+     païens?"--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 355.
+
+We now turn to the _Coliseum_, originally called The Flavian
+Amphitheatre. This vast building was begun in A.D. 72, upon the site of
+the reservoir of Nero, by the Emperor Vespasian, who built as far as the
+third row of arches, the last two rows being finished by Titus after his
+return from the conquest of Jerusalem. It is said that 12,000 captive
+Jews were employed in this work, as the Hebrews in building the Pyramids
+of Egypt, and that the external walls alone cost a sum equal to
+17,000,000 francs. It consists of four stories, the first Doric, the
+second Ionic, the third and fourth Corinthian. Its circumference is 1641
+feet, its length is 287, its width 182, its height 157. The entrance for
+the emperor was between two arches facing the Esquiline, where there is
+no cornice. Here there are remains of stucco decoration. On the opposite
+side was a similar entrance from the Palatine. Towards S. Gregorio has
+been discovered the subterranean passage in which the Emperor Commodus
+was near being assassinated. The numerous holes visible all over the
+exterior of the building were made in the middle ages, to extract the
+iron cramps, at that time of great value. The arena was surrounded by a
+wall sufficiently high to protect the spectators from the wild beasts,
+who were introduced by subterranean passages closed by huge gates, from
+the side towards the Coelian. The _podium_ contained the places of
+honour reserved for the Emperor and his family, the Senate, and the
+Vestal virgins. The places for the other spectators who entered by
+openings called _vomitoria_, were arranged in three stages (_caveæ_),
+separated by a gallery (_præcinctio_). The first stage for knights and
+tribunes, had 24 steps, the second (for the common people) 16, the third
+(for the soldiery) 10. The women, by order of the emperor, sate apart
+from the men, and married and unmarried men were also divided. The whole
+building was probably capable of containing 100,000 persons. At the top,
+on the exterior, may be seen the remains of the consoles which sustained
+the _velarium_ which was drawn over the arena to shelter the spectators
+from the sun or rain. The arena could on occasions be filled with water
+for the sake of naval combats.
+
+Nothing is known with certainty as to the architect of the Coliseum,
+though a tradition of the Church (founded on an inscription in the crypt
+of S. Martino al Monte), ascribes it to Gaudentius, a Christian martyr,
+who afterwards suffered on the spot.[70]
+
+     "The name of the architect to whom the great work of the Coliseum
+     was entrusted has not come down to us. The ancients seem themselves
+     to have regarded this name as a matter of little interest; nor, in
+     fact, do they generally care to specify the authorship of their
+     most illustrious buildings. The reason is obvious. The forms of
+     ancient art in this department were almost wholly conventional, and
+     the limits of design within which they were executed gave little
+     room for the display of original taste and special character.... It
+     is only in periods of eclecticism and renaissance, when the taste
+     of the architect has wider scope, and may lead the eye instead of
+     following it, that interest attaches to his personal merit. Thus it
+     is that the Coliseum, the most conspicuous type of Roman
+     civilisation, the monument which divides the admiration of
+     strangers in modern Rome with St. Peter's itself, is nameless and
+     parentless, while every stage in the construction of the great
+     Christian temple, the creation of a modern revival, is appropriated
+     with jealous care to its special claimants.
+
+     "The dedication of the Coliseum afforded to Titus an opportunity
+     for a display of magnificence hitherto unrivalled, A battle of
+     cranes with dwarfs representing the pigmies was a fanciful novelty,
+     and might afford diversion for a moment; there were combats of
+     gladiators, among whom women were included, though no noble matron
+     was allowed to mingle in the fray; and the capacity of the vast
+     edifice was tested by the slaughter of five thousand animals in its
+     circuit. The show was crowned with the immission of water into the
+     arena, and with a sea-fight representing the contests of the
+     Corinthians and Corcyreans, related by Thucydides.... When all was
+     over, Titus himself was seen to weep, perhaps from fatigue,
+     possibly from vexation and disgust; but his tears were interpreted
+     as a presentiment of his death, which was now impending, and it is
+     probable that he was already suffering from a decline of bodily
+     strength.... He lamented effeminately the premature decease he too
+     surely anticipated, and, looking wistfully at the heavens,
+     exclaimed that he did not deserve to die. He expired on the 13th
+     September, 81, not having quite completed his fortieth
+     year."--_Merivale_, ch. Ix.
+
+     "Hadrian gave a series of entertainments in honour of his
+     birth-day, with the slaughter of a thousand beasts, including a
+     hundred lions and as many lionesses. One magical scene was the
+     representation of forests, when the whole arena became planted with
+     living trees, shrubs, and flowers; to complete which illusion the
+     ground was made to open, and send forth wild animals from yawning
+     clefts, instantly re-covered with bushes.
+
+     "One may imagine the frantic excess to which the taste for
+     gladiatorial combats was carried in Rome, from the preventive law
+     of Augustus that gladiators should no more combat without
+     permission of the senate; that prætors should not give these
+     spectacles more than twice a year; that more than sixty couples
+     should not engage at the same time; and that neither knights nor
+     senators should ever contend in the arena. The gladiators were
+     classified according to the national manner of fighting which they
+     imitated. Thus were distinguished the Gothic, Dacian, Thracian, and
+     Samnite combatants; the _Retiarii_, who entangled their opponents
+     in nets thrown with the left hand, defending themselves with
+     tridents in the right; the _Secutores_, whose special skill was in
+     pursuit; the _Laqueatores_, who threw slings against their
+     adversaries; the _Dimachæ_, armed with a short sword in each hand;
+     the _Hoplomachi_, armed at all points; the _Myrmillones_, so called
+     from the figure of a fish at the crest of the Gallic helmet they
+     wore; the _Bustuarii_, who fought at funeral games; the
+     _Bestiarii_, who only assailed animals; other classes who fought on
+     horseback, called _Andabates_; and those combating in chariots
+     drawn by two horses, _Essedarii_. Gladiators were originally
+     slaves, or prisoners of war; but the armies who contended on the
+     Roman arena in later epochs, were divided into compulsory and
+     voluntary combatants, the former alone composed of slaves, or
+     condemned criminals. The latter went through a laborious education
+     in their art, supported at the public cost, and instructed by
+     masters called _Lanistæ_, resident in colleges, called _Ludi_. To
+     the eternal disgrace of the morals of Imperial Rome, it is recorded
+     that women sometimes fought in the arena, without more modesty than
+     hired gladiators. The exhibition of himself in this character by
+     Commodus, was a degradation of the imperial dignity, perhaps more
+     infamous, according to ancient Roman notions, than the theatrical
+     performances of Nero."--_Hemans' Story of Monuments in Rome._
+
+The Emperor Commodus (A.D. 180-182), frequently fought in the Coliseum
+himself, and killed both gladiators and wild beasts, calling himself
+Hercules, dressed in a lion's-skin, with his hair sprinkled with
+gold-dust.
+
+The gladiatorial combats came to an end, when, in A.D. 403, an oriental
+monk named Telemachus, was so horrified at them, that he rushed into the
+midst of the arena and besought the spectators to renounce them: instead
+of listening to him, they stoned him to death. The first martyrdom here
+was that of St Ignatius, said to have been the child especially blessed
+by our Saviour--the disciple of John--and the companion of Polycarp--who
+was sent here from Antioch, where he was bishop. When brought into the
+arena, he knelt down, and exclaimed, "Romans who are present, know that
+I have not been brought into this place for any crime, but in order that
+by this means I may merit the fruition of the glory of God, for love of
+whom I have been made prisoner. I am as the grain of the field, and must
+be ground by the teeth of the lions, that I may become bread fit for His
+table." The lions were then let loose, and devoured him, except the
+larger bones, which the Christians collected during the night.
+
+     "It is related of Ignatius that he grew up in such innocence of
+     heart and purity of life, that to him it was granted to hear the
+     angels sing; hence, when he became bishop of Antioch, he introduced
+     into the service of his church the practice of singing the praises
+     of God in responses, as he had heard the choirs of angels answering
+     each other.... His story and fate are so well attested, and so
+     sublimely affecting, that it has always been to me a cause of
+     surprise as well as regret to find so few representations of
+     him."--_Jameson's Sacred Art_, 693.
+
+Soon after the death of Ignatius, 115 Christians were shot down here
+with arrows. Under Hadrian, A.D. 218, a patrician named Placidus, his
+wife Theophista, and his two sons, were first exposed here to the wild
+beasts, but when these refused to touch them were shut up in a brazen
+bull, and roasted by a fire lighted beneath. In 253, Abdon and Sennen,
+two rich citizens of Babylon, were exposed here to two lions and four
+bears, but on their refusing to attack them, were killed by the swords
+of the gladiators. In A.D. 259, Sempronius, Olympius, Theodulus, and
+Exuperia, were burnt at the entrance of the Coliseum, before the statue
+of the Sun. In A.D. 272, Sta. Prisca was vainly exposed here to a lion,
+then starved for three days, then stretched on a rack to have her flesh
+torn by iron hooks, then put into a furnace, and--having survived all
+these torments--was finally beheaded. In A.D. 277, Sta. Martina, another
+noble Roman lady, was exposed in vain to the beasts and afterwards
+beheaded in the Coliseum. St. Alexander under Antoninus; St. Potitus,
+168; St. Eleutherius, bishop of Illyria, under Hadrian; St Maximus, son
+of a senator, 284; and Vitus, Crescentia, and Modesta, under Domitian,
+were also martyred here.[71]
+
+     "It is no fiction, but plain, sober, honest truth, to say: so
+     suggestive and distinct is it at this hour: that, for a
+     moment--actually in passing in--they who will, may have the whole
+     great pile before them, as it used to be, with thousands of eager
+     faces staring down into the arena, and such a whirl of strife, and
+     blood, and dust going on there, as no language can describe. Its
+     solitude, its awful beauty, and its utter desolation, strike upon
+     the stranger, the next moment, like a softened sorrow; and never in
+     his life, perhaps, will he be so moved and overcome by any sight,
+     not immediately connected with his own affections and afflictions.
+
+     "To see it crumbling there, an inch a year; its walls and arches
+     overgrown with green, its corridors open to the day; the long
+     grass growing in its porches; young trees of yesterday springing
+     up on its ragged parapets, and bearing fruit--chance produce of the
+     seeds dropped there by the birds who build their nests within its
+     chinks and crannies; to see its pit of fight filled up with earth,
+     and the peaceful cross planted in the centre; to climb into its
+     upper halls, and look down on ruin, ruin, ruin, all about it; the
+     triumphal arches of Constantine, Septimius Severus, and Titus, the
+     Roman Forum, the Palace of the Cæsars, the temples of the old
+     religion, fallen down and gone; is to see the ghost of old Rome,
+     wicked, wonderful old city, haunting the very ground on which its
+     people trod. It is the most impressive, the most stately, the most
+     solemn, grand, majestic, mournful sight conceivable. Never, in its
+     bloodiest prime, can the sight of the gigantic Coliseum, full and
+     running over with the lustiest life, have moved one heart, as it
+     must move all who look upon it now, a ruin. God be thanked: a ruin!
+
+     "As it tops all other ruins: standing there, a mountain among
+     graves: so do its ancient influences outlive all other remnants of
+     the old mythology and old butchery of Rome, in the nature of the
+     fierce and cruel Roman people. The Italian face changes as the
+     visitor approaches the city; its beauty becomes devilish; and there
+     is scarcely one countenance in a hundred, among the common people
+     in the streets, that would not be at home and happy in a renovated
+     Coliseum to-morrow."--_Dickens._
+
+The spot where the Christian martyrs suffered is now marked by a tall
+cross, devoutly kissed by the faithful,--and all round the arena of the
+Coliseum, are the small chapels or "stations," used in the Via Crucis,
+which is observed here at 4 P.M. every Friday, when a confraternity
+clothed in grey, with only the eyes visible, is followed by a crowd of
+worshippers who chaunt and pray at each station in turn,--after which a
+Capuchin monk preaches from a pulpit on the left of the arena. These
+sermons are often very striking, being delivered in a familiar style,
+and upon popular subjects of the day, but they also often border on the
+burlesque.
+
+     "Oswald voulut aller au Colisée pour entendre le Capucin qui devait
+     y prêcher en plein air au pied de l'un des autels qui désignent,
+     dans l'intérieur de l'enceinte, ce qu'on appelle _la route de la
+     Croix_. Quel plus beau sujet pour l'éloquence que l'aspect de ce
+     monument, que cette arène où les martyrs ont succédé aux
+     gladiateurs! Mais il ne faut rien espérer à cet égard du pauvre
+     Capucin, qui ne connâit de l'histoire des hommes que sa propre vie.
+     Néanmoins, si l'on parvient à ne pas écouter son mauvais sermon, on
+     se sent ému par les divers objets dont il est entouré. La plupart
+     de ses auditeurs sont de la confrérie des Camaldules; ils se
+     revêtent, pendant les exercises religieux, d'une espèce de robe
+     grise qui couvre entièrement la tête et le corps, et ne laisse que
+     deux petites ouvertures pour les yeux; c'est ainsi que les ombres
+     pourraient être représentées. Ces hommes, ainsi cachés sous leurs
+     vêtements, se prosternent la face contre terre, et se frappent la
+     poitrine. Quand le prédicateur se jette à genoux en criant
+     _miséricorde de pitié!_ le peuple qui l'environne se jette aussi à
+     genoux, et répète ce même cri, qui va se perdre sous les vieux
+     portiques du Colisée. Il est impossible de ne pas éprouver alors
+     une émotion profondément religieuse; cet appel de la douleur à la
+     bonté, de la terre au ciel, remue l'âme jusque dans son sanctuaire
+     le plus intime."--_Madame de Staël._
+
+     "'C'est aujourd'hui Vendredi,' dit Guy, 'il y aura foule au
+     Colisée, il vaudrait mieux, je crois, y aller un autre jour.'
+
+     "'Non, non,' dit Eveline, 'c'est précisément pour cela que je veux
+     y aller. On m'a dit qu'il fallait le voir ainsi rempli de monde, et
+     que d'ailleurs cette fête était curieuse.'
+
+     "'Ce n'est pas une fête,' dit Guy gravement, 'c'est un simple acte
+     de dévotion qui se répète tous les Vendredis.'
+
+     "'En vérité,' dit Eveline, 'et pourquoi le Vendredi?'
+
+     "'Parceque c'est le jour où Christ est mort pour nous; par cette
+     raison, vous ne l'ignorez pas, ce jour est demeuré consacré dans le
+     monde chrétien ... dans le monde catholique du moins,' repondit
+     Guy.
+
+     "'Mais à quel propos choisit-on le Colisée pour s'y réunir ce jour
+     là?'
+
+     "'Parceque le Colisée a été baigné du sang des martyrs et que leur
+     souvenir se mêle là plus qu'ailleurs à celui de la croix pour
+     laquelle ils l'ont versé.'"--_Mrs. Augustus Craven in Anne
+     Severin._
+
+The pulpit of the Coliseum was used for the stormy sermons of Gavazzi,
+who called the people to arms from thence in the revolution of March,
+1848.
+
+It is well worth while to ascend to the upper galleries (a man who
+lives near the entrance from the Forum will open a locked door for the
+purpose), as then only is it possible to realize the vast size and
+grandeur of the building.
+
+     "_May, 1827._--Lastly, we ascended to the top of the Coliseum,
+     Bunsen leaving us at the door, to go home; and I seated myself just
+     above the main entrance, towards the Forum, and there took my
+     farewell look over Rome. It was a delicious evening, and everything
+     was looking to advantage:--the huge Coliseum just under me, the
+     tufts of ilex and aliternus and other shrubs that fringe the walls
+     everywhere in the lower part, while the outside wall, with its top
+     of gigantic stones, lifts itself high above, and seems like a
+     mountain barrier of bare rock, enclosing a green and varied valley.
+     I sat and gazed upon the scene with an intense and mingled feeling.
+     The world could show nothing grander; it was one which for years I
+     had longed to see, and I was now looking at it for the last time.
+     When I last see the dome of St. Peter's I shall seem to be parting
+     from more than a mere town full of curiosities, where the eye has
+     been amused, and the intellect gratified. I never thought to have
+     felt thus tenderly towards Rome; but the inexplicable solemnity and
+     beauty of her ruined condition has quite bewitched me, and to the
+     latest hour of my life I shall remember the Forum, the surrounding
+     hills, and the magnificent Coliseum."--_Arnold's Letters._
+
+The upper arches frame a series of views of the Aventine, the
+Capitoline, the Coelian, and the Campagna, like a succession of
+beautiful pictures.
+
+Those who visit the Coliseum by moonlight will realize the truthfulness
+of the following descriptions:--
+
+    "I do remember me, that in my youth,
+    When I was wandering,--upon such a night,
+    I stood within the Coliseum's wall,
+    Midst the chief relics of almighty Rome;
+    The trees which grew along the broken arches
+    Waved dark in the blue midnight, and the stars
+    Shone through the rents of ruin; from afar
+    The watch-dog bayed beyond the Tiber; and
+    More near from out the Cæsar's palace came
+    The owl's long cry, and, interruptedly,
+    Of distant sentinels the fitful song
+    Began and died upon the gentle wind:--
+    Some cypresses beyond the time-worn breach
+    Appeared to skirt the horizon, yet they stood
+    Within a bowshot where the Cæsars dwelt,
+    And dwell the tuneless birds of night, amidst
+    A grove which springs through levell'd battlements,
+    And twines its roots with the imperial hearths;
+    Ivy usurps the laurel's place of growth;--
+    But the gladiator's bloody circus stands,
+    A noble wreck in ruinous perfection!
+    While Cæsar's chambers, and the Augustan halls,
+    Grovel on earth in indistinct decay.
+    And thou didst shine, thou rolling moon, upon
+    All this, and cast a wide and tender light,
+    Which softened down the hoar austerity
+    Of rugged desolation, and fill'd up,
+    As 't were anew, the gaps of centuries;
+    Leaving that beautiful which still was so,
+    And making that which was not, till the place
+    Became religion, and the heart ran o'er
+    With silent worship of the great of old:--
+    The dead but scepter'd sovereigns, who still rule
+    Our spirits from their urns."
+
+    _Manfred._
+
+    "Arches on arches! as it were that Rome,
+    Collecting the chief trophies of her line,
+    Would build up all her triumphs in one dome,
+    Her Coliseum stands; the moonbeams shine
+    As 't were its natural torches, for divine
+    Should be the light which streams here, to illume
+    The long-explored but still exhaustless mine
+    Of contemplation; and the azure gloom
+    Of an Italian night, where the deep skies assume
+
+    "Hues which have words, and speak to ye of heaven,
+    Floats o'er this vast and wondrous monument,
+    And shadows forth its glory. There is given
+    Under the things of earth, which Time hath bent,
+    A spirit's feeling, and where he hath leant
+    His hand, but broke his scythe, there is a power
+    And magic in the ruined battlement,
+    For which the palace of the present hour
+    Must yield its pomp, and wait till ages are its dower."
+
+    _Childe Harold._
+
+     "No one can form any idea of full moonlight in Rome who has not
+     seen it. Every individual object is swallowed in the huge masses of
+     light and shadow, and only the marked and principal outlines remain
+     visible. Three days ago (Feb. 2, 1787) we made good use of a light
+     and most beautiful night. The Coliseum presents a vision of beauty.
+     It is closed at night; a hermit lives inside in a little church,
+     and beggars roost amid the ruined vaults. They had lighted a fire
+     on the bare ground, and a gentle breeze drove the smoke across the
+     arena. The lower portion of the ruin was lost, while the enormous
+     walls above stood forth into the darkness. We stood at the gates
+     and gazed upon this phenomenon. The moon shone high and bright.
+     Gradually the smoke moved through the chinks and apertures in the
+     walls, and the moon illuminated it like a mist. It was an exquisite
+     moment!"--_Goethe._
+
+It is believed that the building of the Coliseum remained entire until
+the eighth century, and that its ruin dates from the invasion of Robert
+Guiscard, who destroyed it to prevent its being used as a stronghold by
+the Romans. During the middle ages it served as a fortress, and became
+the castle of the great family of Frangipani, who here gave refuge to
+Pope Innocent II. (Papareschi) and his family, against the anti-pope
+Anacletus II., and afterwards in the same way protected Innocent III.
+(Conti) and his brothers against the anti-pope Paschal II. Constantly at
+war with the Frangipani were the Annibaldi, who possessed a neighbouring
+fortress, and obtained from Gregory IX. a grant of half the Coliseum,
+which was rescinded by Innocent IV. During the absence of the popes at
+Avignon the Annibaldi got possession of the whole of the Coliseum, but
+it was taken away again in 1312, and placed in the hands of the
+municipality, after which it was used for bull-fights, in which (as
+described by Monaldeschi) nobles of high rank took part and lost their
+lives. In 1381 the senate made over part of the ruins to the Canons of
+the Lateran, to be used as a hospital, and their occupation is still
+commemorated by the arms of the Chapter (our Saviour's head between two
+candelabra) sculptured in various parts of the building. From the
+fourteenth century it began to be looked upon as a stone-quarry, and the
+Palazzos Farnese, Barberini, S. Marco, and the Cancellaria, were built
+with materials plundered from its walls. It is said that the first of
+these destroyers, Cardinal Farnese, only extorted permission from his
+reluctant uncle, Paul III., to quarry as much stone as he could remove
+in twelve hours, and that he availed himself of this permission to let
+loose four thousand workmen upon the building. Sixtus V. endeavoured to
+utilize it by turning the arcades into shops, and establishing a woollen
+manufactory, and Clement XI. (1700--1721) by a manufactory of saltpetre,
+but both happily failed. In the last century the tide of restoration
+began to set in. A Carmelite monk, Angelo Paoli, represented the
+iniquity of allowing a spot consecrated by such holy memories to be
+desecrated, and Clement XI. consecrated the arena to the memory of the
+martyrs who had suffered there, and erected in one of the archways the
+still existing chapel of Sta. Maria della Pietà. The hermit appointed to
+take care of this chapel was stabbed in 1742, which caused Benedict XIV.
+to shut in the Coliseum with bars and gates. After this time destruction
+became sacrilege, and the five last popes all contributed to strengthen
+and preserve the walls which remain. Even so late as thirty years ago,
+however, the interior was (like that of an English abbey) an uneven
+grassy space littered with masses of ruin, amid which large trees grew
+and flourished, and the clearing out of the arena, though exhibiting
+more perfectly the ancient form of the building, is much to be regretted
+by lovers of the picturesque.[72]
+
+Among the ecclesiastical legends connected with the Coliseum, it is said
+that Gregory the Great presented some foreign ambassadors with a handful
+of earth from the arena as a relic for their sovereigns, and upon their
+receiving the gift with disrespect, he pressed it, when blood flowed
+from the soil. Pius V, urged those who wished for relics to gather up
+the dust of the Coliseum, wet with the blood of the martyrs.
+
+In 1744 "the blessed Leonardo di Porto Maurizio," who is buried in S.
+Buonaventura, drew immense crowds to the Coliseum by his preaching, and
+obtained permission from Benedict XIV. to found the confraternity of
+"Amanti di Gesù e Maria," for whom the Via Crucis was established here.
+Recently the ruins have been associated with the holy beggar, Benoit
+Joseph Labré (beatified by Pius IX. in 1860), who died at Rome in 1783,
+after a life spent in devotion. He was accustomed to beg in the
+Coliseum, to sleep at night under its arcades, and to pray for hours at
+its various shrines.
+
+The name Coliseum is first found in the writings of the Venerable Bede,
+who quotes a prophecy of Anglo-Saxon pilgrims.
+
+    "While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand;
+    When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall;
+    And when Rome falls, the world."[73]
+
+The name was probably derived from its size; the amphitheatre of Capua
+was also called Colossus.
+
+     "When one looks at the Coliseum everything else becomes small; it
+     is so great that one cannot keep its true image in one's soul; one
+     only remembers it on a smaller scale, and returning thither again
+     finds it again grown larger."--_Goethe, Romische Briefe._
+
+Once or twice in the course of every Roman winter the Coliseum is
+illuminated with Bengal lights.
+
+     "Les étrangers se donnent parfois l'amusement d'éclairer le Colisée
+     avec des feux de Bengale. Cela ressemble un peu trop à un finale de
+     mélodrame, et on peut préférer comme illumination un radieux soleil
+     on les douces lueurs de la lune. Cependant j'avoue que la première
+     fois que le Colisée m'apparut ainsi, embrasé de feux rougeâtres,
+     son histoire me revint vivement à la pensée. Je trouvais qu'il
+     avait en ce moment sa vraie couleur, la couleur du sang."--_Ampère,
+     Emp._ ii. 156.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+THE VELABRUM AND THE GHETTO.
+
+     S. Teodoro--Sta. Anastasia--Circus Maximus--S. Giorgio in
+     Velabro--Arch of Septimius Severus--Arch of
+     Janus--Cloaca-Maxima--Sta. Maria in Cosmedin--Temple of
+     Vesta--Temple of Fortuna Virilis--House of
+     Rienzi--Ponte-Rotto--Ponte Sublicio--S. Nicolo in Carcere--Theatre
+     of Marcellus--Portico of Octavia--Pescheria--Jewish
+     Synagogue--Palazzo Cenci--Fontana Tartarughe--Palazzo
+     Mattei--Palazzo Caetani--Sta. Caterina dei Funari--Sta. Maria
+     Campitelli--Palazzo Margana--Convent of the Tor de' Specchi.
+
+
+The second turn on the right of the Roman Forum is the Via dei Fienili,
+formerly the _Vicus Tuscus_, so called from the Etruscan colony
+established there after the drying up of the marsh which occupied that
+site in the earliest periods of Roman history. During the empire, this
+street, leading from the Forum to the Circus Maximus, was one of the
+most important. Martial speaks of its silk-mercers; from an inscription
+on a tomb we know that the fashionable tailors were to be found there;
+and the perfumers' shops were of such abundance as to give to part of
+the street the name of Vicus Thurarius. At its entrance was the statue
+of the Etruscan god, Vertumnus, the patron of the quarter.[74] This was
+the street by which the processions of the Circensian games passed from
+the Forum to the Circus Maximus. In one of the Verrine Orations, an
+accusation brought by Cicero against the patrician Verres, was that from
+avaricious motives he had paved even this street--used for processions
+of the Circus--in such a manner that he would not venture to use it
+himself.[75]
+
+All this valley was once a stagnant marsh, left by inundations of the
+Tiber, for in early times the river often overflowed the whole valley
+between the Palatine and the Capitoline hills, and even reached as far
+as the foot of the Quirinal, where the Goat's Pool, at which Romulus
+disappeared, is supposed to have formed part of the same swamp. Ovid, in
+describing the processions of the games, speaks of the willows and
+rushes which once covered this ground, and the marshy places which one
+could not pass over except with bare feet:
+
+    "Qua Velabra solent in Circum ducere pompas,
+      Nil præter salices crassaque canna fuit,
+    Sæpe suburbanas rediens conviva per undas
+      Cantat, et ad nautas ebria verba jacit.
+    Nondum conveniens diversis iste figuris
+      Nomen ab averso ceperat amne deus.
+    Hic quoque lucus erat juncis et arundine densus,
+      Et pede velato non adeunda palus.
+    Stagna recesserunt, et aquas sua ripa coërcet:
+      Siccaque nunc tellus. Mos tamen ille manet."
+
+    _Fast._ vi. 405.
+
+We even know the price which was paid for being ferried across the
+Velabrum: "it was a _quadrans_, three times as much as one pays now for
+the boat at the Ripetta."[76] The creation of the Cloaca Maxima had
+probably done much towards draining, but some fragments of the marsh
+remained to a late period.
+
+According to Varro the name of the Velabrum was derived from _vehere_,
+because of the boats which were employed to convey passengers from one
+hill to the other.[77] Others derive the name from _vela_, also in
+reference to the mode of transit, or, according to another idea, in
+reference to the awnings which were stretched across the street to
+shelter the processions,--though the name was in existence long before
+any processions were thought of.
+
+It was the waters of the Velabrum which bore the cradle of Romulus and
+Remus from the Tiber, and deposited it under the famous fig-tree of the
+Palatine.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+On the left of the Via dei Fienili (shut in by a railing, generally
+closed, but which will be opened on appealing to the sacristan next
+door) is the round _Church of S. Teodoro_. The origin of this building
+is unknown. It used to be called the temple of Romulus, on the very
+slight foundation that the famous bronze wolf, mentioned by Dionysius as
+existing in the temple of Romulus, was found near this spot. Dyer
+supposes that it may have been the Temple of Cybele; this, however, was
+upon, and not under, the Palatine. Be they what they may, the remains
+were dedicated as a Christian church by Adrian I., in the eighth
+century, and some well preserved mosaics in the tribune are of that
+time.
+
+     "It is curious to note in Rome how many a modern superstition has
+     its root in an ancient one, and how tenaciously customs still cling
+     to the old localities. On the Capitoline hill the bronze she-wolf
+     was once worshipped as the wooden Bambino is now. It stood in the
+     Temple of Romulus, and there the ancient Romans used to carry
+     children to be cured of their diseases by touching it. On the
+     supposed site of the temple now stands the church dedicated to S.
+     Teodoro, or Santo Toto, as he is called in Rome. Though names must
+     have changed and the temple has vanished, and church after church
+     has here decayed and been rebuilt, the old superstition remains,
+     and the common people at certain periods still bring their sick
+     children to Santo Toto, that he may heal them with his
+     touch."--_Story's Roba di Roma._[78]
+
+Further on the left, still under the shadow of the Palatine Hill, is the
+large _Church of Sta. Anastasia_, containing, beneath the altar, a
+beautiful statue of the martyred saint reclining on a faggot.
+
+     "Notwithstanding her beautiful Greek name, and her fame as one of
+     the great saints of the Greek Calendar, Sta. Anastasia is
+     represented as a noble Roman lady, who perished during the
+     persecution of Diocletian. She was persecuted by her husband and
+     family for openly professing the Christian faith, but being
+     sustained by the eloquent exhortations of St. Chrysogonus, she
+     passed triumphantly, receiving in due time the crown of martyrdom,
+     being condemned to the flames. Chrysogonus was put to death with
+     the sword and his body thrown into the sea.
+
+     "According to the best authorities, these two saints did not suffer
+     in Rome, but in Illyria; yet in Rome we are assured that Anastasia,
+     after her martyrdom, was buried by her friend Apollina in the
+     garden of her house under the Palatine hill and close to the Circus
+     Maximus. There stood the church, dedicated in the fourth century,
+     and there it now stands. It was one of the principal churches in
+     Rome in the time of St. Jerome, who, according to ancient
+     tradition, celebrated mass at one of the altars, which is still
+     regarded with peculiar veneration."--_Mrs. Jameson's Sacred and
+     Legendary Art._
+
+It was the custom for the mediæval popes to celebrate their second mass
+of Christmas night in this church, for which reason Sta. Anastasia is
+still especially commemorated in that mass.
+
+To the left of the high altar is the tomb of the learned Cardinal Mai,
+by the sculptor Benzoni, who owed everything to the kind interest with
+which this cardinal regarded him from childhood. The epitaph is
+remarkable. It is thus translated by Cardinal Wiseman:
+
+    "I, who my life in wakeful studies wore,
+      Bergamo's son, named Angelo, here lie.
+    The empyreal robe and crimson hat I bore,
+      Rome gave. Thou giv'st me, Christ, th' empyreal sky.
+    Awaiting Thee, long toil I could endure:
+    So with Thee be my rest now, sweet, secure."
+
+Through this church, also, we may enter some of the subterraneous
+chambers of the Palace of the Cæsars.
+
+The valley near this, between the Palatine and the Aventine, was the
+site of the _Circus Maximus_, of which the last vestiges were destroyed
+in the time of Paul V. Its ground plan can, however, be identified, with
+the assistance of the small circus of Maxentius on the Via Appia, which
+still partially exists. It was intended for chariot-races and
+horse-races, and is said to have been first instituted by Tarquinius
+Priscus after his conquest of the Latin town of Apiolæ. It was a vast
+oblong, ending in a semicircle, and surrounded by three rows of seats,
+termed collectively _cavea_. In the centre of the area was the low wall
+called the _spina_, at each end of which were the _metæ_, or goals.
+Between the metæ were columns supporting the _ova_, egg-shaped balls,
+and _Delphinæ_, or dolphins, each seven in number, one of which was put
+up for each circuit made in the race. At the extremity of the Circus
+were the stalls for the horses and chariots called _Carceres_. This, the
+square end of the Circus, was termed _oppidum_, from its external
+resemblance to a town, with walls and towers. In the Circus Maximus,
+which was used for hunting wild beasts, Julius Cæsar made a canal,
+called _Euripus_,[79] ten feet wide, between the seats and the
+racecourse, to protect the spectators. The _Ludi Circenses_ were first
+established by Romulus, to attract his Sabine neighbours, in order that
+he might supply his city with wives. The games were generally at the
+expense of the ædiles, and their cost was so great, that Cæsar was
+obliged to sell his Tiburtine villa, to defray those given during his
+ædileship. Perhaps the most magnificent games known were those in the
+reign of Carinus (Imp. A.D. 283), when the Circus was transformed into
+an artificial forest, in which hundreds of wild beasts and birds were
+slaughtered. At one time this Circus was capable of containing 385,000
+persons.
+
+At the western extremity of the Circus Maximus stood the Temple of
+Ceres, Liber, and Libera (said to have been vowed by the Dictator Albus
+Postumius, at the battle of the Lake Regillus), dedicated by the Consul
+Sp. Cassius, B.C. 492.
+
+     "Quand le père de Cassius l'eut immolé de ses propres mains à
+     l'avidité patricienne, il fit don du pécule de son fils--un fils
+     n'avait que son pécule comme un esclave--à ce même temple de Cérès
+     que Spurius Cassius avait consacré, et par une féroce ironie, mit
+     au bas de la statue faite avec cet argent, et qu'il dédiait à la
+     déesse: 'Don de la famille Cassia.'
+
+     "L'ironie était d'autant plus amère, que l'on vendait auprès du
+     temple de Cérès ceux qui avaient offensé au tribun.
+
+     "Ce temple, mis particulièrement sous la surveillance des édiles et
+     où ils avaient leurs archives, était le temple de la démocratie
+     romaine. Le farouche patricien le choisit pour lui faire adresser
+     par son fils mort au service de la démocratie un dérisoire
+     hommage."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ ii. 416.
+
+We must now retrace our steps for a short distance, and descend into a
+hollow on the left, which we have passed, between the churches of S.
+Teodoro and Sta. Anastasia.
+
+Here an interesting group of buildings still stands to mark the site of
+the famous ox-market, _Forum Boarium_. In its centre a brazen bull,
+brought from Egina,[80] once commemorated the story of the oxen of
+Geryon, which Hercules left to pasture on this marshy site, and which
+were stolen hence by Cacus,--and is said by Ovid to have given a name to
+the locality:
+
+    "Pontibus et magno juncta est celeberrima Circo
+    Area, quæ posito de bove nomen habet."
+
+    _Fast._ vi. 478.
+
+The fact of this place being used as a market for oxen is mentioned by
+Livy.[81]
+
+The Forum Boarium is associated with several deeds of cruelty. After the
+battle of Cannæ, a male and female Greek and a male and female Gaul were
+buried alive here;[82] and here the first fight of gladiators took
+place, being introduced by M. and D. Brutus, at the funeral of their
+father in B.C. 264.[83] Here the Vestal virgins buried the sacred
+utensils of their worship, at the spot called Doliola, when they fled
+from Rome after the battle of the Allia.[84]
+
+Amongst the buildings which once existed in the Forum Boarium, but of
+which no trace remains, were the Temple of the Sabine deity Matuta, and
+the Temple of Fortune, both ascribed to Servius Tullius.
+
+    "Hac ibi luce ferunt Matutæ sacra parenti,
+    Sceptiferas Servi templa dedisse manus."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ vi. 479.
+
+    "Lux eadem, Fortuna, tua est, auctorque, locusque,
+    Sed superinjectis quis latet æde togis?
+    Servius est: hoc constat enim----"
+
+    _Fast._ vi. 569.
+
+The Temple of Fortune was rebuilt by Lucullus, and Dion Cassius mentions
+that the axle of Julius Cæsar's car broke down in front of it on
+occasion of one of his triumphs.[85] Another temple in this
+neighbourhood was that of Pudicitia Patricia, into which the noble
+ladies refused to admit Virginia, because she had espoused a plebeian
+consul[86] (see Chap. X.). Here, also, was the Temple of Hercules
+Victor, erected by Pompey.[87] The two earliest triumphal arches were
+built in this forum, being in honour of L. Stertinius, erected B.C. 196,
+after his victories in Spain.
+
+The building which first attracts attention, among those now standing,
+is the _Arch of Janus_, the Sabine god. It has four equal sides and
+arches, turned to the four points of the compass, and forty-eight
+niches, probably intended for the reception of small statues.
+Bas-reliefs on the inverted blocks employed in the lower part of this
+edifice, show that they must have been removed from earlier buildings.
+This was probably used as a portico for shelter or business for those
+who trafficked in the Forum; there were many similar porticoes in
+ancient Rome.
+
+On the left of the arch of Janus is a narrow alley, spanned by low brick
+arches, which leads first to the beautiful clear spring of the Aqua
+Argentina, which, according to some authorities, is the place where
+Castor and Pollux watered their horses after the battle of the Lake
+Regillus.
+
+    "Then on rode those strange horsemen,
+      With slow and lordly pace;
+    And none who saw their bearing
+      Durst ask their name or race.
+    On rode they to the Forum,
+      While laurel boughs and flowers
+    From house-tops and from windows,
+      Fell on their crests in showers.
+
+    "When they drew nigh to Vesta,
+      They vaulted down amain,
+    And washed their horses in the well
+      That springs by Vesta's fane.
+    And straight again they mounted
+      And rode to Vesta's door;
+    Then, like a blast, away they passed,
+      And no man saw them more."
+
+    _Macaulay's Lays._
+
+The alley is closed by an arch of the celebrated _Cloaca Maxima_, the
+famous drain formed by Tarquinius Priscus, fifth king of Rome, to dry
+the marshy land of the Velabrum.
+
+     "Infima urbis loca circa Forum, aliasque interjectas collibus
+     convalles, quia ex planis locis haud facile evehebant aquas,
+     cloacis a fastigio in Tiberim ductis siccat."--_Livy_, lib. i. c.
+     38.
+
+The Cloaca extended from the Forum to the Tiber, and is still, after
+2,400 years, used, during the latter part of its course, for the purpose
+for which it was originally intended, though Pliny was filled with
+wonder that, in his time, it had already withstood the earthquakes,
+inundations, and accidents of seven hundred years. Strabo tells that the
+tunnel of the Cloaca was of sufficient height to admit a waggon laden
+with hay, but this probably supposes the water at its lowest. Agrippa,
+who cleaned out the Cloaca, navigated its whole length in a boat. The
+mouth of the Cloaca, composed of three concentric courses of blocks of
+peperino, without cement, is visible on the river a little to the right
+of the temple of Vesta.
+
+     "Ces lieux ont encore un air et comme une odeur de marécage--quand
+     on rôde aux approches de la nuit dans ce coin désert de Rome où fut
+     placée la scène des premiers moments de son premier roi, on y
+     retrouve, à présent mieux qu'au temps de Tite-Live, quelque chose
+     de l'impression que ce lieu devait produire il y a vingt-cinq
+     siècles, à l'époque où, selon la vieille tradition, le berceau de
+     Romulus s'arrêta dans les boues du Vélabre, au pied du Palatin,
+     près de l'antre Lupercal. Il faut s'écarter un peu de cet endroit,
+     qui était au pied du versant occidental du Palatin, et faire
+     quelques pas à droite pour aller chercher les traces du Vélabre là
+     où les rues et les habitations modernes ne les ont pas entièrement
+     effacées. En s'avançant vers la Cloaca Maxima, on rencontre un
+     enfoncement où une vieille église, elle-même au dedans humide et
+     moisie, rappelle par son nom, San Giorgio in Velabro, que le
+     Vélabre a été là. On voit sourdre encore les eaux qui
+     l'alimentaient sous une voûte sombre et froide, tapissée de
+     mousses, de scolopendres et de grandes herbes frissonnant dans la
+     nuit. Alentour, tout a un aspect triste et abandonné, abandonné
+     comme le furent au bord du marais, suivant l'antique récit, les
+     enfants dont on croit presque ouïr dans le crépuscule les
+     vagissements. L'imagination n'a pas de peine à se représenter les
+     arbres et les plantes aquatiques qui croissaient sur le bord de cet
+     enfoncement que voilà, et à travers lesquelles la louve de la
+     légende se glissait à cette heure pour venir boire à cette eau. Ces
+     lieux sont assez peu fréquentés et assez silencieux pour qu'on se
+     les figure comme ils étaient alors, alors qu'il n'y avait ici,
+     comme dit Tite-Live, vrai cette fois, que des solitudes désertes:
+     _Vastæ tunc solitudines erant_."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ i. 271.
+
+The church with the picturesque campanile near the arch of Janus, is _S.
+Giorgio in Velabro_, founded in the fourth century, as the Basilica
+Sempronia, but repeatedly rebuilt. The architrave above its portico was
+that where Rienzi affixed his famous inscription, announcing the return
+to the Good Estate: "_In breve tempo gli Romani torneranno al loro
+antico buono stato_." The church is seldom open, except on its festival
+(Jan. 20), and during its station in Lent. The interior is in the
+basilica form, the long nave being lined by sixteen columns, of various
+sizes, and with strangely different capitals, showing that they have
+been plundered from ancient temples. The carving on some of the capitals
+is sharp and delicate. There is a rather handsome ancient baldacchino,
+with an old Greek picture let into its front, over the high altar.
+Beneath is preserved a fragment of the banner of St George. Some injured
+frescoes in the tribune replace mosaics which once existed here, and
+which were attributed to Giotto. In the centre is the Saviour, between
+the Virgin and St. Peter; on one side, St. George with the martyr's palm
+and the warrior's banner,--on the other, St. Sebastian, with an arrow.
+Several fragments of carving and inscriptions are built into the side
+walls. The pictures are poor and ugly which relate to the saint of the
+church, St. George (the patron of England and Germany), the knight of
+Cappadocia, who delivered the Princess Cleodolinda from the dragon.
+
+     "Among good specimens of thirteenth century architecture is the
+     portico of S. Giorgio, with Ionic columns and horizontal
+     architrave, on which is a gothic inscription, in quaint Leonine
+     verse, informing us that the Cardinal (or Prior) Stephen, added
+     this detail (probably the campanile also), to the ancient
+     church--about the middle of the thirteenth century, as is supposed,
+     though no date is given here; and in the midst of an age so alien
+     to classic influences, a work in which classic feeling thus
+     predominates, is remarkable."--_Heman's Sacred Art._
+
+Partly hidden by the portico of this church, is the beautiful miniature
+_Arch of Septimius Severus_, erected to the emperor, his wife Julia Pia,
+and his sons Caracalla and Geta, by the silversmiths (argentarii) who
+had their shops in the Forum Boarium on this very spot ("cujus loci qui
+invehent"). The part of the dedication relating to Geta (as in the
+larger arch of Septimius) was obliterated after his murder, and the
+words FORTISSIMO FELICISSIMOQUE PRINCIPI engraved in its place. The
+architecture and sculpture, part of which represents a sacrifice by the
+imperial family, prove the decadence of art at this period.
+
+Proceeding in a direct line from the Arch of Janus, we reach the _Church
+of Sta. Maria in Cosmedin_, on the site of a Temple of Ceres, dedicated
+by the consul Spurius Cassius, B.C. 493, and afterwards re-dedicated to
+Ceres and Proserpine, probably by Augustus, who had been initiated into
+the Eleusinian mysteries in Greece. The church was built in the basilica
+form, in 782, by Adrian I., when the name Cosmedin, from the Greek
+[Greek: kosmos], is supposed to have been given, from the
+ornaments with which he adorned it It was intended for the use of the
+Greek exiles expelled from the East by the iconoclasts under
+Constantine Copronimus, and derived the epithet of Sta. Maria in Scuola
+Greca, from a "Schola" attached to it for their benefit. Another relic
+of the Greek colony which existed here is to be found in the name of the
+adjoining street, Via della Greca. In the middle ages the whole bank of
+the river near this was called Ripa Greca.
+
+The interior of this church is of great interest. The nave is divided
+from the aisles by twelve ancient marble columns, of which two have
+especially curious antique capitals, and are evidently remains of the
+temple which once existed here. The choir is raised, as at S. Clemente.
+The pavement is of splendid Opus Alexandrinum (1120); the ambones are
+perfect; there is a curious crypt; the altar covers an ancient bason of
+red granite, and is shaded by a gothic canopy, supported by four
+Egyptian granite pillars; behind it is a fine episcopal throne, with
+lions, said to have been used by St. Augustine, an ancient Greek picture
+of the Virgin, and a graceful tabernacle of marble inlaid with mosaic,
+by _Deodato Cosmati_. In the sacristy is a very curious mosaic, one of
+the few relics preserved from the old St Peter's, A.D. 705. (There is
+another in S. Marco at Florence.) Crescimbeni, the founder and historian
+of the Arcadian Academy (d. 1728), is buried in this church, of which he
+was a canon. On St. Valentine's Day the skull of St. Valentine, crowned
+with roses, is exhibited here.
+
+In the portico is the strange and huge mask of stone, which gives the
+name of _Bocca della Verita_ to the neighbouring piazza. It was believed
+that if a witness, whose truthfulness was doubtful, were desired to
+place his hand in the mouth of this mask, he would be unable to withdraw
+it, if he were guilty of perjury.
+
+     "Cette Bouche-de-Vérité est une curieuse relique du moyen âge. Elle
+     servait aux jugements de Dieu. Figurez-vous une meule de moulin qui
+     ressemble, non pas à un visage humain, mais au visage de la lune:
+     on y distingue des yeux, un nez et une bouche ouverte où l'accusé
+     mettait la main pour prêter serment. Cette bouche mordait les
+     menteurs; au moins la tradition l'assure. J'y ai introduit ma
+     dextre en disant que le Ghetto était un lieu de délices, et je n'ai
+     pas été mordu."--_About, Rome Contemporaine._
+
+On the other side of the portico is the tomb of Cardinal Alfanus, ob.
+1150.
+
+     "The church was rebuilt under Calixtus II.; about A.D. 1128, by
+     Alfanus, Roman Chancellor, whose marble sepulchre stands in the
+     atrium, with his epitaph, along a cornice, giving him that most
+     comprehensive title, 'an honest man,' _vir probus_. Some more than
+     half-faded paintings, a Madonna and Child, angels, and two mitred
+     heads, on the wall behind the canopy, give importance to this
+     Chancellor's tomb. Though now disfigured exteriorly by a modern
+     façade in the worst style, interiorly by a waggon-vault roof and
+     heavy pilasters, this church is still one of the mediæval gems of
+     Rome, and retains many olden details: the classic colonnades,
+     probably left in their original place since the time of Adrian I.;
+     and the fine campanile, one of the loftiest in Rome; also the
+     sculptured doorway, the rich intarsio pavement, the high altar, the
+     marble and mosaic-inlaid ambones, the marble episcopal throne, with
+     supporting lions and a mosaic decoration above, &c.,--all of the
+     twelfth century. But we have to regret the destruction of the
+     ancient choir-screens, and (still more inexcusable) the
+     white-washing of wall surfaces so as entirely to conceal the
+     mediæval paintings which adorned them, conformably to that once
+     almost universal practice of polychrome decoration in churches,
+     prescribed even by law under Charlemagne. Ciampini (see his
+     valuable history of this basilica) mentions the iron rods for
+     curtains between the columns of the atrium, and those, still in
+     their place, in the porch, with rings for suspending; also a small
+     chapel with paintings, at one end of the atrium, designed for those
+     penitents who were not allowed to worship within the sacred
+     building--as such, an evidence of disciplinary observance, retained
+     till the twelfth century. Over the portal are some tiny
+     bas-reliefs, so placed along the inner side of the lintel that many
+     might pass underneath without seeing them: in the centre, a hand
+     blessing, with the Greek action, between two sheep, laterally; the
+     four evangelistic emblems, and two doves, each pecking out of a
+     vase, and one perched upon a dragon (more like a lizard), to
+     signify the victory of the purified soul over mundane
+     temptations."--_Hemans' Christian Art._
+
+Close to this church stood the Palace of Pope Gelasius II. (1118).
+
+Opposite the church is a beautiful fountain, erected by one of the
+Medici, and beyond it the graceful round temple now called the _Temple
+of Vesta_, supposed by Canina to have been that of Mater Matuta, and by
+others to have been that of Hercules founded by Pompey. It is known to
+have existed in the time of Vespasian. It is very small, the
+circumference of the peristyle being only 156 feet, and that of the
+cella 26 feet,--the height of the surrounding Corinthian columns
+(originally twenty in number) 32 feet This temple was first dedicated as
+a church under the name of S. Stefano delle Carrozze; it is now called
+_Sta. Maria del Sole_.
+
+This is not the Temple of Vesta (which was situated near the Church of
+Sta. Maria Liberatrice in the Forum) of which Horace wrote:--
+
+    "Vidimus flavum Tiberim, retortis
+    Littore Etrusco violenter undis,
+    Ire dejectum monumenta regum
+                      Templaque Vestæ."
+
+    _Carm._ i. 2.
+
+The modern overhanging roof of the temple has been much objected to, as
+it replaces an entablature like that on the temple of the Sibyl at
+Tivoli; but artists admire the exquisite play of light and shade caused
+by its rugged tiles, and, finding it a perfect "subject," wish for no
+change.
+
+     "C'est auprès de la Bouche-de-Vérité, devant le petit temple de
+     Vesta, que la justice romaine exécute un meurtrier sur cent. Quand
+     j'arrivai sur la place, on n'y guillotinait personne; mais six
+     cuisinières, dont une aussi belle que Junon, dansaient la
+     tarantelle au son d'un tambour de basque. Malheureusement elles
+     divinèrent ma qualité d'étranger, et elles se mirent à polker
+     contre la mesure."--_About._
+
+Close to this--overhanging a little hollow way--is the _Temple of
+Fortuna Virilis_, built originally by Servius Tullius, but rebuilt
+during the republic, and, if the existing building is really republican,
+the most ancient temple remaining in Rome. It is surrounded by Ionic
+columns (one side being enclosed in other buildings), 28 feet high,
+clothed with hard stucco, and supporting an entablature adorned with
+figures of children, oxen, candelabra, &c. The Roman matrons had a great
+regard for this goddess, who was supposed to have the power of
+concealing their personal imperfections from the eyes of men. At the
+close of the tenth century this temple was consecrated to the Virgin,
+but has since been bestowed upon _St. Mary of Egypt_.
+
+Hard by, is a picturesque end of building, laden with rich but
+incongruous sculpture, at one time called "The House of Pilate," but now
+known as the _House of Rienzi_. It derives its present name from a long
+inscription over a doorway, which tallies with the bombastic epithets
+assumed by "The Last of the Tribunes" in his pompous letter of Aug. 1,
+1347, when, in his semi-madness, he summoned kings and emperors to
+appear before his judgment-seat. The inscription closes:--
+
+    "Primus de primis magnus Nicolaus ab imis,
+    Erexit patrum decus ob renovare suorum.
+    Stat patris Crescens matrisque Theodora nomen.
+    Hoc culmen clarum caro de pignore gessit,
+    Davidi tribuit qui pater exhibuit."
+
+It is believed, from the inscription, that the house was fortified by
+Nicholas, son of Crescentius and Theodora, who gave it to David, his
+son; that the Crescentius alluded to was son of the famous patrician who
+headed the populace against Otho III.; and that, three centuries later,
+the house may have belonged to Cola di Rienzi, a name which is, in fact,
+only popular language for Niccola Crescenzo. It is, however, known that
+Rienzi was not born in this house, but in a narrow street behind S.
+Tommaso, in the Rione alla Regola, where his father Lorenzo kept an inn,
+and his mother, Maddalena, gained her daily bread as a washerwoman and
+water-carrier--so were the Crescenzi fallen!
+
+Here is the entrance to a suspension-bridge, which joins the remaining
+arches of the _Ponte Rotto_, and leads to the Trastevere. On this site
+was the Pons Æmilius, begun, B.C. 180, by M. Æmilius Lepidus and Marcus
+Fulvius Nobilior, and finished by P. Scipio Africanus and L. Mummius,
+the censors, in B.C. 142. Hence the body of the Emperor Heliogabalus was
+thrown into the Tiber. The bridge has been three times rebuilt by
+different popes, but two of its arches were finally carried away in an
+inundation of 1598, and have never since been replaced. The existing
+remains, which only date from the time of Julius III., are highly
+picturesque.
+
+     "Quand on a établi un pont en fil de fer, on lui a donné pour base
+     les piles du Ponte-Rotto, élevé au moyen âge sur les fondements du
+     Pons Palatinus, qui fut achevé sous la censure de Scipion
+     l'Africain. Scipion l'Africain et un pont en fil de fer, voilà de
+     ces contrastes qu'on ne trouve qu'à Rome."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 209.
+
+From this bridge is the best view of the Isola Tiberina and its bridges,
+and hence, also, the Temple of Vesta is seen to great advantage. Just
+below is the mouth of the Cloaca Maxima.
+
+     "Quand du Ponte-Rotto on considère le triple cintre de l'ouverture
+     par laquelle la Cloaca Maxima se déchargeait dans le Tibre, on a
+     devant les yeux un monument qui rappelle beaucoup de grandeur et
+     beaucoup d'oppression. Ce monument extraordinaire est une page
+     importante de l'histoire romaine. Il est à la fois la suprême
+     expression de la puissance des rois étrusques et le signe
+     avant-coureur de leur chute. L'on croit voir l'arc triomphal de la
+     royauté par où devait entrer la république."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._
+     ii. 233.
+
+In the bed of the river a little lower down may be seen, at low water,
+some massive fragments of masonry. Here stood the _Pons Sublicius_, the
+oldest bridge in Rome, built by Ancus Martius (B.C. 639), on which
+Horatius Cocles and his two companions "kept the bridge" against the
+Etruscan army of Lars Porsenna, till--
+
+    "Back darted Spurius Lartius;
+      Herminius darted back:
+    And, as they passed, beneath their feet
+      They felt the timbers crack.
+    But when they turned their faces,
+      And on the farther shore
+    Saw brave Horatius stand alone,
+      They would have crossed once more.
+
+    "But with a crash like thunder
+      Fell every loosened beam,
+    And, like a dam, the mighty wreck
+      Lay right athwart the stream:
+    And a long shout of triumph
+      Rose from the walls of Rome,
+    As to the highest turret-tops
+      Was splashed the yellow foam."
+
+    _Macaulay's Lays._
+
+The name "Sublicius" came from the wooden beams of its construction,
+which enabled the Romans to cut it away. The bridge was rebuilt by
+Tiberius and again by Antoninus Pius, each time of beams, but upon stone
+piers, of which the present remains are fragments, the rest having been
+destroyed by an inundation in the time of Adrian I.
+
+On the Trastevere bank, between these two bridges, half hidden in shrubs
+and ivy (but worth examination in a boat), are two gigantic _Heads of
+Lions_, to which in ancient times chains were fastened, and drawn across
+the river to prevent hostile vessels from passing.
+
+Near this we enter the _Via S. Giovanni Decollato_, decorated with
+numerous heads of John the Baptist in the dish, let into the walls over
+the doors of the houses. The "Confraternità della Misericordia di S.
+Giovanni Decollato," founded in 1488, devote themselves to criminals
+condemned to death. They visit them in prison, accompany them to
+execution, receive their bodies, and offer masses for their souls in
+their little chapel. Vasari gives the highest praise to two pictures of
+Francesco Salviati in the Church of S. Giov. Decollato, "before which
+all Rome stood still in admiration,"--representing the appearance of the
+angel to Zacharias, and the meeting of the Virgin and Elizabeth.
+
+On the left is the _Hospital of Sta. Galla_, commemorating the pious
+foundation of a Roman matron in the time of John I. (523--526), who
+attained such celebrity, that she is still commemorated in the Roman
+mass by the prayer--
+
+     "Almighty and merciful God, who didst adorn the blessed Galla with
+     the virtue of a wonderful love towards thy poor; grant us, through
+     her merits and prayers, to practise works of love, and to obtain
+     Thy mercy, through the Lord, &c. Amen."
+
+On, or very near this site, stood the _Porta Carmentalis_, which, with
+the temple beside it, commemorated Carmenta, the supposed mother of
+Evander, a Sabine prophetess, who is made by Ovid to predict the future
+grandeur of Rome.[88] Carmenta was especially invoked by women in
+childbirth. The Porta Carmentalis was reached from the Forum by the
+Vicus Jugarius. It was by this route that the Fabii went forth to meet
+their doom in the valley of the Crimera. The Porta had two gates--one
+for those who entered, the other for those who left it, so that in each
+case the passenger passed through the "Janus," as it was called, upon
+his right. After the massacre of the Fabii, the road by which they left
+the city was avoided, and the Janus Carmentalis on the right was closed,
+and called the Porta Scelerata.
+
+    "Carmentis portæ dextro via proxima Jano est
+    Ire per hanc noli, quisquis es; omen habet."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ ii. 201.
+
+Just beyond the Porta Carmentalis was the district called _Tarentum_,
+where there was a subterranean "Ara Ditis Patris et Proserpinæ."
+
+We now reach (left) the _Church of S. Nicolo in Carcere_. It has a mean
+front, with an inscription in honour of one of the Aldobrandini family,
+and is only interesting as occupying the site of the three _Temples of
+Juno Matuta, Piety(?), and Hope_, which are believed to mark the site of
+the Forum Olitorium. The vaults beneath the church contain the massive
+substructions of these temples, and fragments of their columns.
+
+The central temple is believed to be that of Piety, built by M. Acilius
+Glabrio, the duumvir, in B.C. 165 (though Pliny says that this temple
+was on the site afterwards occupied by the theatre of Marcellus), in
+fulfilment of a vow made by his father, a consul of the same name, on
+the day of his defeating the forces of Antiochus the Great, king of
+Syria, at Thermopylæ. Others endeavour to identify it with the temple
+built on the site of the Decemviral prisons, to keep up the recollection
+of the famous story, called the "Caritas Romana,"--of a woman condemned
+to die of hunger in prison being nourished by the milk of her own
+daughter. Pliny and Valerius Maximus tell the story as of a mother;
+Festus only speaks of a father;[89]--yet art and poetry have always
+followed the latter legend. A cell is shown, by torchlight, as the scene
+of this touching incident.
+
+    "There is a dungeon, in whose dim drear light
+    What do I gaze on? Nothing. Look again!
+    Two forms are slowly shadowed on my sight--
+    Two insulated phantoms of the brain:
+    It is not so; I see them full and plain--
+    An old man, and a female young and fair,
+    Fresh as a nursing mother, in whose vein
+    The blood is nectar:--but what doth she there,
+    With her unmantled neck, and bosom white and bare?
+
+    "But here youth offers to old age the food,
+    The milk of his own gift:--it is her sire,
+    To whom she renders back the debt of blood
+    Born with her birth. No, he shall not expire
+    While in those warm and lovely veins the fire
+    Of health and holy feeling can provide
+    Great Nature's Nile, whose deep stream rises higher
+    Than Egypt's river;--from that gentle side
+    Drink, drink, and live, old man! Heaven's realm holds no such tide.
+
+    "The starry fable of the milky-way
+    Has not thy story's purity; it is
+    A constellation of a sweeter ray,
+    And sacred Nature triumphs more in this
+    Reverse of her decree, than in the abyss
+    Where sparkle distant worlds:--Oh, holiest nurse!
+    No drop of that clear stream its way shall miss
+    To thy sire's heart, replenishing its source
+    With life, as our freed souls rejoin the universe."
+
+    _Childe Harold._
+
+A memorial of this story of a prison is preserved in the name of the
+church--S. Nicolo _in Carcere_. It was probably owing to this legend
+that, in front of the Temple of Piety, was placed the _Columna
+Lactaria_, where infants were exposed, in the hope that some one would
+take pity upon and nurse them out of charity.
+
+A wide opening out of the street near this, with a pretty fountain, is
+called the _Piazza Montanara_, and is one of the places where the
+country people collect and wait for hire.
+
+     "Le dimanche est le jour où les paysans arrivent à Rome. Ceux qui
+     cherchent l'emploi de leurs bras viennent se louer aux marchands de
+     campagne, c'est-à-dire aux fermiers. Ceux qui sont loués et qui
+     travaillent hors des murs viennent faire leurs affaires et
+     renouveler leurs provisions. Ils entrent en ville au petit jour
+     après avoir marché une bonne partie de la nuit. Chaque famille
+     amène un âne, qui porte le bagage. Hommes, femmes, et enfants,
+     poussant leur âne devant eux, s'établissent dans un coin de la
+     place Farnèse, ou de la place Montanara. Les boutiques voisines
+     restent ouvertes jusqu'à midi, par un privilège spécial. On va, on
+     vient, on achète, on s'accroupit dans les coins pour compter les
+     pièces de cuivre. Cependant les ânes se reposent sur leurs quatre
+     pieds au bord des fontaines. Les femmes, vêtues d'un corset en
+     cuirasse, d'un tablier rouge, et d'une veste rayée, encadrent leur
+     figure hâlée dans une draperie de linge très-blanc. Elles sont
+     toutes à peindre sans exception: quand ce n'est pas pour la beauté
+     de leurs traits, c'est pour l'élégance naïve de leurs attitudes.
+     Les hommes ont le long manteau bleu de ciel et le chapeau pointu;
+     là-dessous leurs habits de travail font merveille, quoique roussis
+     par le temps et couleur de perdrix. Le costume n'est pas uniforme;
+     on voit plus d'un manteau amadou rapiécé de bleu vif ou de rouge
+     garance. Le chapeau de paille abonde en été. La chaussure est
+     très-capricieuse; soulier, botte et sandale foulent successivement
+     le pavé. Les déchaussés trouvent ici près de grandes et profondes
+     boutiques où l'on vend des marchandises d'occasion. Il y a des
+     souliers de tout cuir et de tout âge dans ces trésors de la
+     chaussure; on y trouverait des cothurnes de l'an 500 de la
+     république, en cherchant bien. Je viens de voir un pauvre diable
+     qui essayait une paire de bottes à revers. Elles vont à ses jambes
+     comme une plume à l'oreille d'un porc, et c'est plaisir de voir la
+     grimace qu'il fait chaque fois qu'il pose le pied à terre. Mais le
+     marchand le fortifie par de bonnes paroles: 'Ne crains rien,' lui
+     dit-il, 'tu souffriras pendant cinq ou six jours, et puis tu n'y
+     penseras plus.' Un autre marchand débite des clous à la livre: le
+     chaland les enfonce lui-même dans ses semelles; il y a des bancs
+     _ad hoc_. Le long des murs, cinq ou six chaises de paille servent
+     de boutique à autant de barbiers en plein vent. Il en coute un sou
+     pour abattre une barbe de huit jours. Le patient, barbouillé de
+     savon, regarde le ciel d'un oeil résigné; le barbier lui tire le
+     nez, lui met les doigts dans la bouche, s'interrompt pour aiguiser
+     le rasoir sur un cuir attaché au dossier de la chaise, ou pour
+     écorner une galette noire qui pend au mur. Cependant l'opération
+     est faite en un tour de main; le rasé se lève et sa place est
+     prise. Il pourrait aller se laver à la fontaine, mais il trouve
+     plus simple de s'essuyer du revers de sa manche.
+
+     "Les écrivains publics alternent avec les barbiers. On leur apporte
+     les lettres qu'on a reçues; ils les lisent et font la réponse:
+     total, trois sous. Dès qu'un paysan s'approche de la table pour
+     dicter quelque-chose, cinq ou six curieux se réunissent
+     officieusement autour de lui pour mieux entendre. Il y a une
+     certaine bonhomie dans cette indiscrétion. Chacun place son mot,
+     chacun donne un conseil: 'Tu devrais dire ceci.'--'Non; dis plutôt
+     cela.'--'Laissez-le parler,' crie un troisième, 'il sait mieux que
+     vous ce qu'il veut faire écrire.'
+
+     "Quelques voitures chargées de galettes d'orge et de maïs circulent
+     au milieu de la foule. Un marchand de limonade, armé d'une pince de
+     bois, écrase les citrons dans les verres. L'homme sobre boit à la
+     fontaine en faisant un aqueduc des bords de son chapeau. Le gourmet
+     achète des viandes d'occasion devant un petit étalage, où les
+     rebuts de cuisine se vendent à la poignée. Pour un sou, le débitant
+     remplit de boeuf haché et d'os de côtelettes un morceau de vieux
+     journal; une pincée de sel ajoutée sur le tout pare agréablement la
+     denrée. L'acheteur marchande, non sur le prix, qui est invariable,
+     mais sur la quantité; il prend au tas quelques bribes de viande, et
+     on le laisse faire; car rien ne se conclut à Rome sans marchander.
+
+     "Les ermites et les moines passent de groupe en groupe en quêtant
+     pour les âmes du purgatoire. M'est avis que ces pauvres ouvriers
+     font leur purgatoire en ce monde; et qu'il vaudrait mieux leur
+     donner de l'argent que de leur en demander; ils donnent pourtant,
+     et sans se faire tirer l'oreille.
+
+     "Quelquefois un beau parleur s'amuse à raconter une histoire; on
+     fait cercle autour de lui, et à mesure que l'auditoire augmente il
+     élève la voix. J'ai vu de ces conteurs qui avaient la physionomie
+     bien fine et bien heureuse; mais je ne sais rien de charmant comme
+     l'attention de leur public. Les peintres du quinzième siècle ont dû
+     prendre à la place Montanara les disciples qu'ils groupaient autour
+     du Christ."--_About, Rome Contemporaine._
+
+An opening on the left discloses the vast substructions of the _Theatre
+of Marcellus_. This huge edifice seems to have been projected by Julius
+Caesar, but he probably made little progress in it. It was actually
+erected by Augustus, and dedicated (_c._ 13 B.C.) in memory of the young
+nephew whom he married to his daughter Julia, and intended as his
+successor, but who was cut off by an early death. The theatre was
+capable of containing 20,000 spectators, and consisted of three tiers of
+arches, but the upper range has disappeared, and the lower is very
+imperfect. Still it is a grand remnant, and rises magnificently above
+the paltry houses which surround it. The perfect proportions of its
+Doric and Ionic columns served as models to Palladio.
+
+     "Le mur extérieur du portique demi-circulaire qui enveloppait les
+     gradins offre encore à notre admiration deux étages d'arceaux et de
+     colonnes doriques et ioniques d'une beauté presque grecque. L'étage
+     supérieur, qui devait être corinthien, a disparu. Les _fornices_,
+     ou voûtes du rez-de chaussée, sont habitées encore aujourd'hui
+     comme elles l'étaient dans l'antiquité, mais plus honnêtement, par
+     de pauvres gens qui vendent des ferrailles. Au-dessous des belles
+     colonnes de l'enceinte extérieure, on a construit des maisons
+     modernes dans lesquelles sont pratiquées des fenêtres, et à ces
+     fenêtres du théâtre de Marcellus, on voit des pots à fleurs, ni
+     plus ni moins qu à une mansarde de la rue Saint Denis; des chemises
+     sèchent sur l'entablement; des cheminées surmontent la ruine
+     romaine, et un grand tube se dessine à l'extrémité.
+
+     "Dans les jeux célébrés à l'occasion de la dédicace du théâtre de
+     Marcellus, on vit pour la première fois un tigre apprivoisé,
+     _tigrim mansuefactum_. Dans ce tigre le peuple romain pouvait
+     contempler son image."--_Ampère, Emp._ i. 256.
+
+In the middle ages this theatre was the fortress of the great family of
+Pierleoni, the rivals of the Frangipani, who occupied the Coliseum;
+their name is commemorated by the neighbouring street, Via Porta Leone.
+The constant warfare in which they were engaged with their neighbours
+did much to destroy the building, whose interior became reduced to a
+mass of ruins, forming a hill, upon which Baldassare Peruzzi (1526)
+built the _Palazzo Savelli_, of which the entrance, flanked by the two
+armorial bears of the family, may be seen in the street (Via Savelli)
+which leads to the Ponte Quattro Capi.
+
+     "Au dix-septième siècle, les Savelli exerçaient encore une
+     jurisdiction féodale. Leur tribunal, aussi régulièrement constitué
+     que pas un, s'appellait Corte Savella.[90] Ils avaient le droit
+     d'arracher tous les ans un criminel à la peine de mort: droit de
+     grâce, droit régalien reconnu par la monarchie absolue des papes.
+     Les femmes de cette illustre famille ne sortaient point de leurs
+     palais sinon dans un carosse bien fermé. Les Orsini et les Colonna
+     se vantaient que pendant les siècles, aucun traité de paix n'avait
+     été conclu entre les princes chrétiens, dans lequel ils n'eussent
+     été nominativement compris."--_About._
+
+The palace has now passed to the family of Orsini-Gravina, who descended
+from a senator of A.D. 1200. The princes of Orsini and Colonna, in
+their quality as attendants on the throne (_principi assistenti al
+soglio_), take precedence of all other Roman nobles.
+
+     "Nicolovius will remember the Theatre of Marcellus, in which the
+     Savelli family built a palace. My house is half of it. It has stood
+     empty for a considerable time, because the drive into the courtyard
+     (the interior of the ancient theatre) rises like the slope of a
+     mountain upon the heaps of rubbish; although the road has been cut
+     in a zig-zag, it is still a break-neck affair. There is another
+     entrance from the Piazza Montanara, whence a flight of
+     seventy-three steps leads up to the same story I have mentioned;
+     the entrance-hall of which is on a level with the top of the
+     carriage-way through the courtyard. The apartments in which we
+     shall live are those over the colonnade of Ionic pillars forming
+     the third story of the ancient theatre, and some, on a level with
+     them, which have been built out like wings on the rubbish of the
+     ruins. These enclose a little quadrangular garden, which is indeed
+     very small, only about eighty or ninety feet long, and scarcely so
+     broad, but so delightful! It contains three fountains--an abundance
+     of flowers: there are orange-trees on the wall between the windows,
+     and jessamine under them. We mean to plant a vine besides. From
+     this story, you ascend forty steps, or more, higher, where I mean
+     to have my own study, and there are most cheerful little rooms,
+     from which you have a prospect over the whole country beyond the
+     Tiber, Monte Mario, and St. Peter's, and can see over St. Pietro in
+     Montorio, indeed almost as far as the Aventine. It would, I think,
+     be possible besides to erect a loggia upon the roof (for which I
+     shall save money from other things), that we may have a view over
+     the Capitol, Forum, Palatine, Coliseum, and all the inhabited parts
+     of the city."--_Niebuhr's Letters._
+
+Following the wall of the theatre, down a filthy street, we arrive at
+the picturesque group of ruins of the "Porticus Octaviæ," erected by
+Augustus, in honour of his sister (the unhappy wife of Antony), close to
+the theatre to which he had given the name of her son. The exact form of
+the building is known from the Pianta Capitolina,--that it was a
+parallelogram, surrounded by a double arcade of 270 columns, and
+enclosing the temples of Jupiter and Juno, built by the Greek
+architects, Batracus and Saurus.[91]
+
+With regard to these temples, Pliny narrates a fact which reminds one of
+the story of the Madonna of Sta. Maria Nuova.[92] The porters having
+carelessly carried the statues of the gods to the wrong temples, it was
+imagined that they had done so from divine inspiration, and the people
+would not venture to remove them, so that the statues always remained
+where they had been placed, though their surroundings were utterly
+unsuitable.
+
+The _Portico of Octavia_ built by Augustus, occupied the site of an
+earlier portico--the Porticus Metelli--built by A. Cæcilius Metellus,
+after his triumph over Andriscus in Macedonia, in B.C. 146. Temples of
+Jupiter Stator and Juno existed also in this portico, one of them being
+the earliest temple built of marble in Rome. Before these temples
+Metellus placed the famous group of twenty-five bronze statues, which he
+had brought from Greece, executed by Lysippus for Alexander the Great,
+and representing that conqueror himself and twenty-four horsemen of his
+troop who had fallen at the Granicus.[93]
+
+The existing fragment of the portico is the original entrance to the
+whole. The building had suffered from fire in the reign of Titus, and
+was restored by Septimius Severus, and of this time is the large brick
+arch on one side of the ruin.
+
+     "It was in this hall of Octavia that Titus and Vespasian celebrated
+     their triumph over Israel with festive pomp and splendour. Among
+     the Jewish spectators stood the historian Flavius Josephus, who was
+     one of the followers and flatterers of Titus ... and to this base
+     Jewish courtier we owe a description of the
+     triumph."--_Gregorovius, Wanderjahre in Italien._
+
+Within the portico is the _Church of S. Angelo in Pescheria_. Here it
+was that Cola Rienzi summoned, at midnight--May 20, 1347--all good
+citizens to hold a meeting for the re-establishment of "the good
+estate;" here he kept the vigil of the Holy Ghost; and hence he went
+forth, bareheaded, in complete armour, accompanied by the papal legate,
+and attended by a vast multitude, to the Capitol, where he called upon
+the populace to ratify the Good Estate.
+
+It is said that one of the causes which most incited the indignation of
+Rienzi against the assumption and pride of the Roman families, was the
+fact of their painting their arms on the ancient Roman buildings, and
+thus in a manner appropriating them to their own glory. Remains of coats
+of arms thus painted may be seen on the front wall of the Portico of
+Octavia. It was also on this very wall that Rienzi painted his famous
+allegorical picture. In this painting kings and men of the people were
+seen burning in a furnace, with a woman half consumed, who personified
+Rome,--and on the right was a church, whence issued a white-robed angel,
+bearing in one hand a naked sword, while with the other he plucked the
+woman from the flames. On the church tower were SS. Peter and Paul,
+crying to the angel, "Aquilo, aquilo, succurri a l'albergatrice
+nostra,"--and beyond this were represented falcons (typical of the Roman
+barons) falling from heaven into the flames, and a white dove bearing a
+wreath of olive, which it gave to a little bird (Rienzi), which was
+chased by the falcons. Beneath was inscribed: "I see the time of great
+justice, do thou await that time."
+
+    "Then turn we to her latest tribune's name,
+    From her ten thousand tyrants turn to thee,
+    Redeemer of dark centuries of shame--
+    The friend of Petrarch--hope of Italy--
+    Rienzi! last of Romans! While the tree
+    Of Freedom's wither'd trunk puts forth a leaf,
+    Even for thy tomb a garland let it be--
+    The forum's champion, and the people's chief--
+    Her newborn Numa thou--with reign, alas! too brief."
+
+    _Childe Harold._
+
+Through the brick arch of the Portico we enter upon the ancient
+_Pescheria_, with the marble fish-slabs of imperial times still
+remaining in use. It is a striking scene--the dark, many-storied houses
+almost meeting overhead and framing a narrow strip of deep blue
+sky,--below, the bright groups of figures and rich colouring of hanging
+cloths and drapery.
+
+     "C'est une des ruines les plus remarquables de Rome, et une de
+     celles qui offrent ces contrastes piquants entre le passé et le
+     présent, amusement perpétuel de l'imagination dans la ville des
+     contrastes. Le portique d'Octavie est, aujourd'hui, le marché aux
+     poissons. Les colonnes et le fronton s'élèvent au milieu de
+     l'endroit le plus sale de Rome; leur effet n'en est pas moins
+     pittoresque, il l'est peut-être davantage. Le lieu est fait pour
+     une aquarelle, et quand un beau soleil éclaire les débris antiques,
+     les vieux murs sombres de la rue étroite où la poisson se vend sur
+     des tables de marbre blanc, et à travers laquelle des nattes sont
+     tendues, on a, à côté du monument romain, le spectacle d'un marché
+     du moyen âge, et un peu le souvenir d'un bazar d'Orient."--_Ampère,
+     Emp._ i. 179.
+
+     "Who that has ever been to Rome does not remember Roman streets of
+     an evening, when the day's work is done? They are all alive in a
+     serene and homelike fashion. The old town tells its story. Low
+     arches cluster with life--a life humble and stately, though rags
+     hang from the citizens and the windows. You realize it as you pass
+     them--their temples are in ruins, their rule is over--their
+     colonies have revolted long centuries ago. Their gates and their
+     columns have fallen like the trees of a forest, cut down by an
+     invading civilization."--_Miss Thackeray._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Here we are in the centre of the Jews' quarter--the famous _Ghetto_.
+
+The name "Ghetto" is derived from the Hebrew word _chat_, broken,
+destroyed, shaven, cut down, cast off, abandoned (see the Hebrew in
+Isaiah xiv. 12; xv. 2; Jer. xlviii. 25, 27; Zech. xi. 10--14; &c.). The
+first Jewish slaves were brought to Rome by Pompey the Great, after he
+had taken Jerusalem, and forcibly entered the Holy of Holies. But for
+centuries after this they lived in Rome in wealth and honour, their
+princes Herod and Agrippa being received with royal distinction, and
+finding a home in the Palace of the Cæsars,--in which Berenice (or
+Veronica), the daughter of Agrippa, presided as the acknowledged
+mistress of Titus, who would willingly have made her empress of Rome.
+The chief Jewish settlement in imperial times was nearly on the site of
+their present abode, but they were not compelled to live here, and also
+had a large colony in the Trastevere; and when St. Peter was at Rome (if
+the Church tradition be true), he dwelt, with Aquila and Priscilla, on
+the slopes of the Aventine. Julius, Augustus, and Tiberius Cæsar treated
+the Jews with kindness, but under Caligula they already met with
+ill-treatment and contempt,--that emperor being especially irritated
+against them as the only nation which refused to yield him divine
+honours, and because they had successfully resisted the placing of his
+statue in the Holy of Holies at Jerusalem. On the destruction of
+Jerusalem by Titus, thousands of Jewish slaves were brought to Rome, and
+were employed on the building of the Coliseum. At the same time
+Vespasian, while allowing the Hebrews in Rome the free exercise of their
+religion, obliged them to pay the tax of half a skekel, formerly paid
+into the Temple treasury, to Jupiter Capitolinus,--and this custom is
+still kept up in the annual tribute paid by the Jews in the Camera
+Capitolina.
+
+Under Domitian the Jews were banished from the city to the valley of
+Egeria, where they lived in a state of poverty and outlawry, which is
+described by Juvenal,[94] and occupied themselves with soothsaying,
+love-charms, magic-potions, and mysterious cures.[95]
+
+During the reigns of the earlier popes, the Jews at Rome enjoyed a great
+amount of liberty, and the anti-pope Anacletus II. (ob. 1138) was even
+the grandson of a baptized Jew, whose family bore a leading part in
+Rome, as one of the great patrician houses. The clemency with which the
+Jews were regarded was, however, partly due to their skill as
+physicians,--and long after their persecutions had begun (as late as
+Martin V., 1417--31), the physician of the Vatican was a Jew. The first
+really bitter enemy of the Jews was Eugenius IV. (Gabriele Condolmiere,
+1431--39), who forbade Christians to trade, to eat, or to dwell with
+them, and prohibited them from walking in the streets, from building new
+synagogues, or from occupying any public post. Paul II. (1468) increased
+their humiliation by compelling them to run races during the Carnival,
+as the horses run now, amidst the hoots of the populace. This custom
+continued for two hundred years. Sprenger's "Roma Nuova" of 1667,
+mentions that "the asses ran first, then the Jews--naked, with only a
+band round their loins--then the buffaloes, then the Barbary horses."
+It was Clement IX. (Rospigliosi), in 1668, who first permitted the Jews
+to pay a sum equivalent to 1500 francs annually instead of racing.
+
+     "On the first Saturday in Carnival, it was the custom for the heads
+     of the Jews in Rome to appear as a deputation before the
+     Conservators in the Capitol. Throwing themselves upon their knees,
+     they offered a nosegay and twenty scudi with the request that this
+     might be employed to ornament the balcony in which the Roman Senate
+     sate in the Piazza del Popolo. In like manner they went to the
+     senator, and, after the ancient custom, implored permission to
+     remain in Rome. The senator placed his foot on their foreheads,
+     ordered them to stand up, and replied in the accustomed formula,
+     that Jews were not adopted in Rome, but allowed from compassion to
+     remain there. This humiliation has now disappeared, but the Jews
+     still go to the Capitol, on the first Saturday of Carnival, to
+     offer their homage and tribute for the pallii of the horses, which
+     they have to provide, in memory that now the horses amuse the
+     people in their stead."--_Gregorovius, Wanderjahre._
+
+The Jews were first shut up within the walls of the Ghetto by the
+fanatical Dominican pope, Paul IV. (Gio. Pietro Caraffa, 1555--59), and
+commanded never to appear outside it, unless the men were in yellow
+hats, or the women in yellow veils. "For," says the Bull Cum Nimis,
+
+     "It is most absurd and unsuitable that the Jews, whose own crime
+     has plunged them into everlasting slavery, under the plea that
+     Christian magnanimity allows them, should presume to dwell and mix
+     with Christians, not bearing any mark of distinction, and should
+     have Christian servants, yea, even buy houses."
+
+The Ghetto, or Vicus Judæorum, as it was at first called, was shut in by
+walls which reached from the Ponte Quattro Capi to the Piazza del
+Pianto, or "Place of Weeping," whose name bears witness to the grief of
+the people on the 26th July, 1556, when they were first forced into
+their prison-house.
+
+     "Those Jews who were shut up in the Ghetto were placed in
+     possession of the dwellings of others. The houses in that quarter
+     were the property of Romans, and some of them were inhabited by
+     families of consideration, such as the Boccapaduli. When these
+     removed they remained the proprietors and the Jews only tenants.
+     But as they were to live for ever in these streets, it was
+     necessary that the Jews should have a perpetual lease to defend
+     them against a twofold danger,--negligence on the part of the owner
+     to announce to his Jewish tenant when his possession expired, or
+     bankruptcy if the owner raised his rent. Thus originated a law
+     which established that the Romans should remain in possession of
+     the dwellings let to the Jews, but that the latter should hold the
+     houses in fee farm; that is, the expiration of the contract cannot
+     be announced to a Jewish tenant, and so long as he pays the lawful
+     rent, the rent can never be raised; the Jew at the same time may
+     alter or enlarge his house as he chooses. This still existing
+     privilege is called the Jus Gazzaga. By virtue of it a Jew is in
+     hereditary possession of the lease, and can sell it to his
+     relations or others, and to the present day it is a costly fortune
+     to be in possession of a Jus Gazzaga, or a hereditary lease. Highly
+     extolled is the Jewish maiden who brings her bridegroom such a
+     dowry. Through this salutary law the Jew became possessed of a
+     home, which to some extent he may call his own."--_Gregorovius._
+
+The Jews were kindly treated by Sixtus V. on the plea that they were
+"the family from whom Christ came," and he allowed them to practise many
+kinds of trades, and to have intercourse with Christians, and to build
+houses, libraries, and synagogues, but his mild laws were all repealed
+by Clement VIII. (Aldobrandini, 1592--1605), and under Clement XI. and
+Innocent XIII. all trade was forbidden them, except that in old-clothes,
+rags, and iron, "stracci feracci." To these Benedict XIV. (Lambertini)
+added trade in drapery, with which they are still largely occupied.
+Under Gregory XIII. (Buoncompagni, 1572--85) the Jews were forced to
+hear a sermon every week in the church, first of S. Benedetto alla
+Regola, then in S. Angelo in Peschiera, and every Sabbath police-agents
+were sent into the Ghetto to drive men, women, and children into the
+church with scourges, and to lash them while there if they appeared to
+be inattentive.
+
+     "Now was come about Holy Cross Day, and now must my lord preach his
+     first sermon to the Jews: as it was of old cared for in the
+     merciful bowels of the Church, that, so to speak, a crumb at least
+     from her conspicuous table here in Rome, should be, though but once
+     yearly, cast to the famishing dogs, undertrampled and bespitten
+     upon beneath the feet of the guests; and a moving sight in truth
+     this, of so many of the besotted, blind, restive, and
+     ready-to-perish Hebrews! now maternally brought--nay (for He saith,
+     'Compel them to come in'), haled, as it were, by the head and hair,
+     and against their obstinate hearts, to partake of the heavenly
+     grace...."--_Diary by the Bishop's Secretary,_ 1600.
+
+Though what the Jews really said, on thus being driven to church, was
+rather to this effect:--
+
+                   IX.
+
+    "Groan all together now, whee-hee-hee!
+    It's a-work, it's a-work, ah, woe is me!
+    It began, when a herd of us, picked and placed,
+    Were spurred through the Corso, stripped to the waist;
+    Jew-brutes, with sweat and blood well spent
+    To usher in worthily Christian Lent.
+
+                    X.
+
+    'It grew, when the hangman entered our bounds,
+    Yelled, pricked us out to his church like hounds.
+    It got to a pitch, when the hand indeed
+    Which gutted my purse, would throttle my creed.
+    And it overflows, when, to even the odd,
+    Men I helped to their sins, help me to their God."
+
+    _R. B. Browning, Holy Cross Day._
+
+This custom of compelling Jews to listen to Christian sermons was
+renewed by Leo XII., and was only abolished in the early years of Pius
+IX. The walls of the Ghetto also remained, and its gates were closed at
+night until the reign of the present pope, who removed the limits of the
+Ghetto, and revoked all the oppressive laws against the Jews. The humane
+feeling with which he regarded this hitherto oppressed race is said to
+have been first evinced,--when, on the occasion of his placing a liberal
+alms in the hand of a beggar, one of his attendants interposed, saying,
+"It is a Jew!" and the pope replied, "What does that matter, it is a
+man?"
+
+     "The present population of the Ghetto is estimated at 3800, a
+     number out of all proportion, considering the small size of the
+     Ghetto, which covers less space than the fifth part of any small
+     town of 3000 inhabitants. The Jews are under the chief congregation
+     of the Inquisition, and their especial magistrate for all civil and
+     criminal processes is the Cardinal Vicar. The tribunal which
+     governs them consists of the Cardinal Vicar, the Prelato
+     Vicegerente, the Prelato Luogo-tenente Civile, and the Criminal
+     Lieutenant. In police matters, the President of the Region of S.
+     Angelo and Campitelli exercises the local police magistracy. The
+     Jewish community has itself the right of regulating its internal
+     order by the so-called Fattori del Ghetto, chosen every half-year.
+     The common tribute of the Ghetto to the state, and to various
+     religious bodies, amounts to about 13,000 francs."
+
+Opposite the gate of the Ghetto near the Ponte Quattro Capi a converted
+Jew erected a church, which is still to be seen, with a painting of the
+Crucifixion on its outside wall (upon which every Jew must look as he
+comes out of the Ghetto), and underneath an inscription in large letters
+of Hebrew and Latin from Isaiah, lxv. 2:--"All day long I have stretched
+out my hands to a disobedient and gainsaying people." The lower streets
+of the Ghetto, especially the Fiumara, which is nearest to the banks of
+the Tiber, are annually overflowed during the spring rains and melting
+of the mountain snows, which is productive of great misery and distress.
+Yet in spite of this, and of the teeming population crowded into its
+narrow alleys, the mortality was less here during the cholera than in
+any other part of Rome, and malaria is unknown here, a freedom from
+disease which may perhaps be attributed to the Jewish custom of
+whitewashing their dwellings at every festival. There is no Jewish
+hospital, and if the Jews go to an ordinary hospital, they must submit
+to a crucifix being hung over their beds. It is remarkable that the very
+centre of the Jewish settlement should be the Portico of Octavia, in
+which Vespasian and Titus celebrated their triumph after the fall of
+Jerusalem. Here and there in the narrow alleys the seven-branched
+candlestick may be seen carved on the house walls, a "yet living symbol
+of the Jewish religion."
+
+Everything may be obtained in the Ghetto: precious stones, lace,
+furniture of all kinds, rich embroidery from Algiers and Constantinople,
+striped stuffs from Spain,--but all is concealed and under cover. "Cosa
+cercate," the Jew shopkeepers hiss at you as you thread their narrow
+alleys, and try to entice you into a bargain with them. The same article
+is often passed on by a mutual arrangement from shop to shop, and meets
+you wherever you go. On Friday evening all shops are shut, and bread is
+baked for the Sabbath, all merchandise is removed, and the men go to the
+synagogue, and wish each other "a good Sabbath," on their return.[96]
+
+In the Piazza della Scuola are five schools under one roof--the Scuola
+del Tempio, Catilana, Castigliana, Siciliana, and the Scuola Nuova,
+"which show that the Roman Ghetto is divided into five districts or
+parishes, each of which represents a particular race, according to the
+prevailing nationality of the Jews, whose fathers have been either
+Roman-Jewish from ancient times, or have been brought hither from Spain
+and Sicily; the Temple-district is said above all others to assert its
+descent from the Jews of Titus." In the same piazza, is the chief
+synagogue, richly adorned with sculpture and gilding. On the external
+frieze are represented in stucco the seven-branched candlestick, David's
+harp, and Miriam's timbrel. The interior is highly picturesque and
+quaint, and is hung with curious tapestries on festas. The frieze which
+surrounds it represents the temple of Solomon with all its sacred
+vessels. A round window in the north wall, divided into twelve panes of
+coloured glass, is symbolical of the twelve tribes of Israel, and a type
+of the Urim and Thummim. "To the west is the round choir, a wooden desk
+for singers and precentors. Opposite, in the eastern wall, is the Holy
+of Holies, with projecting staves (as if for the carrying of the ark)
+resting on Corinthian columns. It is covered by a curtain, on which
+texts and various devices of roses and tasteful arabesques in the style
+of Solomon's temple are embroidered in gold. The seven-branched
+candlestick crowns the whole. In this Holy of Holies lies the sealed
+Pentateuch, a large parchment roll. This is borne in procession through
+the hall and exhibited from the desk towards all the points of the
+compass, whereat the Jews raise their arms and utter a cry."
+
+     "On entering the Ghetto, we see Israel before its tents, in full
+     restless labour and activity. The people sit in their doorways, or
+     outside in the streets, which receive hardly more light than the
+     damp and gloomy chambers, and grub amid their old trumpery, or
+     patch and sew diligently. It is inexpressible what a chaos of
+     shreds and patches (called _Cenci_ in Italian) is here accumulated.
+     The whole world seems to be lying about in countless rags and
+     scraps, as Jewish plunder. The fragments lie in heaps before the
+     doors, they are of every kind and colour,--gold fringes, scraps of
+     silk brocade, bits of velvet, red patches, blue patches, orange,
+     yellow, black and white, torn, old, slashed and tattered pieces,
+     large and small. I never saw such varied rubbish. The Jews might
+     mend up all creation with it, and patch the whole world as gaily as
+     harlequin's coat. There they sit and grub in their sea of rags, as
+     though seeking for treasures, at least for a lost gold brocade. For
+     they are as good antiquarians as any of those in Rome, who grovel
+     amongst the ruins to bring to light the stump of a column, a
+     fragment of a relief, an ancient inscription, a coin, or such
+     matters. Each Hebrew Winckelmann in the Ghetto lays out his rags
+     for sale with a certain pride, as does the dealer in marble
+     fragments. The latter boasts a piece of giallo-antico, the Jew can
+     match it with an excellent fragment of yellow silk; porphyry here
+     is represented by a piece of dark red damask, verde-antico by a
+     handsome patch of ancient green velvet. And there is neither jasper
+     nor alabaster, black marble, or white, or parti-coloured, which the
+     Ghetto antiquarian is not able to match. The history of every
+     fashion from Herod the Great to the invention of paletôts, and of
+     every mode of the highest as well as of the lower classes may be
+     collected from these fragments, some of which are really
+     historical, and may once have adorned the persons of Romulus,
+     Scipio Africanus, Hannibal, Cornelia, Augustus, Charlemagne,
+     Pericles, Cleopatra, Barbarossa, Gregory VII., Columbus, and so
+     forth.
+
+     "Here sit the daughters of Zion on these heaps and sew all that is
+     capable of being sewn. Great is their boasted skill in all work of
+     mending, darning, and fine-drawing, and it is said that even the
+     most formidable rent in any old drapery or garment whatsoever,
+     becomes invisible under the hands of these Arachnes. It is chiefly
+     in the Fiumara, the street lying lowest and nearest to the river,
+     and in the street corners (one of which is called Argumille, _i.e._
+     of unleavened bread), that this business is carried on. I have
+     often seen with a feeling of pain the pale, stooping, starving
+     figures, laboriously plying the needle,--men as well as women,
+     girls, and children. Misery stares forth from the tangled hair, and
+     complains silently in the yellow-brown faces, and no beauty of
+     feature recalls the countenance of Rachel, Leah, or Miriam,--only
+     sometimes a glance from a deep-sunk, piercing black eye, that looks
+     up from its needle and rags, and seems to say--'From the daughter
+     of Zion, all her beauty is departed--she that was great among the
+     nations, and princess among the provinces, how is she become
+     tributary! She weepeth sore in the night, and her tears are on her
+     cheeks; among all her lovers she hath none to comfort her: all her
+     friends have dealt treacherously with her, they are become her
+     enemies. Judah is gone into captivity, because of affliction, and
+     because of great servitude; she dwelleth among the heathen, she
+     findeth no rest; all her persecutors overtook her between the
+     straits. How hath the Lord covered the daughter of Zion with a
+     cloud in his anger!"--_Gregorovius, Wanderjahre._
+
+The narrow street which is a continuation of the Pescheria, emerges upon
+the small square called _Piazza della Giudecca_. In the houses on the
+left may be seen some columns and part of an architrave, being the only
+visible remains of the _Theatre of Balbus_, erected by C. Cornelius
+Balbus, a general who triumphed in the time of Augustus, with the spoils
+taken from the Garamantes, a people of Africa. It was opened in the same
+year as the Theatre of Marcellus, and though very much smaller, was
+capable of containing as many as 11,600 spectators.
+
+To the right, still partly on the site of the ancient theatre, and
+extending along one side of the Piazza delle Scuole, is the vast
+_Palazzo Cenci_, the ancient residence of the famous Cenci family (now
+represented by Count Cenci-Bolognetti), and the scene of many of the
+terrible crimes and tragedies which stain its annals.
+
+     "The Cenci Palace is of great extent: and, though in part
+     modernized, there yet remains a vast and gloomy pile of feudal
+     architecture in the same state as during the dreadful scenes which
+     it once witnessed. The palace is situated in an obscure corner of
+     Rome, near the quarter of the Jews, and from the upper windows you
+     see the immense ruins of Mount Palatine, half hidden under the
+     profuse undergrowth of trees. There is a court in one part of the
+     palace supported by columns, and adorned with antique friezes of
+     fine workmanship, and built up, after the Italian fashion, with
+     balcony over balcony of open work. One of the gates of the palace,
+     formed of immense stones, and leading through a passage dark and
+     lofty, and opening into gloomy subterranean chambers, struck me
+     particularly."--_Shelley's Preface to "The Cenci."_
+
+Opposite the further entrance of the Palace, is the tiny Church of _S.
+Tommaso del Cenci_, founded 1113 by Cencio, bishop of Sabina; granted by
+Julius II. to Rocco Cenci;--and rebuilt in 1575 by the wicked Count
+Cenci.
+
+     "In 1585, Francesco Cenci was the head of the family, a man of
+     passions so ungovernable and heart so depraved, that he hesitated
+     at no species of crime. His first wife was a Princess Santa Croce,
+     whom he is believed to have poisoned in order to marry the
+     beautiful Lucrezia Petroni. His domestic cruelties to his children,
+     especially to his three elder sons, Giacomo, Christoforo, and
+     Rocco, were so terrible, that they petitioned the reigning Pope
+     Clement VIII. to interfere in their behalf, but he abruptly
+     dismissed them as rebels against the paternal authority; one
+     daughter, Marguerita, alone escaped from her miserable home, being
+     given in marriage by the pope to a Signor Gabrielli.
+
+     "The escape of this daughter made Francesco the more embittered
+     against the remainder of his family. His youngest child, Beatrice,
+     he immured in a solitary chamber, to which no one but himself was
+     admitted, and where he constantly starved and beat her severely.
+     When he received the news that his sons Christoforo and Rocco were
+     assassinated in the neighbourhood of Rome by an unknown hand, he
+     expressed the utmost joy, declaring that no money of his should
+     purchase masses for the repose of their souls, and that he could
+     have no peace until his wife and every child he had were in their
+     graves.
+
+     "Lucrezia, believing that the monster whom she had espoused was
+     possessed, in spite of his cruelty, by a criminal passion for his
+     own daughter, attempted secretly to save her, by presenting a
+     memorial to the pope imploring him to give her in marriage to a
+     Signor Guerra, who had long been attached to her. But this petition
+     was intercepted by Francesco, who then carried off Lucrezia and his
+     two youngest children, Beatrice and Bernardo, to Petrella, a vast
+     and desolate castle in the Apennines. Guerra, and Giacomo the
+     eldest remaining brother of Beatrice, hired a band of banditti in
+     the Sabine hills who were to attack the party on the way, and to
+     carry off Francesco for a ransom, liberating the women;--but the
+     rescue arrived too late.
+
+     "When they reached Petrella, Beatrice was incarcerated in a
+     subterranean dungeon, where she was persuaded that her lover Guerra
+     had been murdered, and was treated with such awful cruelty by her
+     father, that, for a time, she was deprived of her reason. One day a
+     servant, Marzio, whose betrothed had previously been seduced and
+     murdered by Francesco, roused by the shrieks of Beatrice, burst
+     into the room, and rushing upon his master dealt a terrible thrust
+     with a dagger on his neck, exclaiming, 'I murder thee, assassin of
+     thy own blood.' But Cenci arose uninjured, to the horror of Marzio,
+     who imagined that only a demon could avert such a blow, and who was
+     ignorant that he wore under his vestments, even in bed, a coat of
+     mail which covered his entire body.
+
+     "At length Beatrice contrived to communicate with her brother
+     Giacomo, who united with Guerra in hiring the services of Marzio
+     and of Olympio, another servant, who was inspired with an equal
+     thirst for vengeance upon Count Cenci. All felt that the death of
+     Francesco was the only hope for his unhappy family. The assassins
+     communicated with Lucrezia, who administered an opiate to her
+     husband, and then stole from him some keys which enabled her after
+     midnight to liberate Bernardo and Beatrice. The latter she found in
+     a state of stupefaction, and vainly endeavoured to rouse her,
+     signifying that the moment of escape had arrived. Beatrice showed
+     no symptom of surprise at the announcement, or at the visit of her
+     stepmother at that strange hour; she asked not how they had opened
+     her door, or how her liberty had been acquired. When they were all
+     assembled in the hall, Lucrezia told them the project, and asked
+     their aid. Bernardo at first hesitated, but Lucrezia roused him by
+     every argument she could urge and obtained his consent. Beatrice
+     made no reply.
+
+     " ... Francesco Cenci was murdered in his sleep. Marzio placed a
+     large nail or iron bolt on his right eye, which Olympio, with one
+     blow of a hammer, drove straight into the brain. The deed thus
+     accomplished, Marzio and Olympio wrapped the dead body in a sheet,
+     and carried it to a small pavilion built at the end of a
+     terrace-walk, overlooking an orchard. From this height they cast it
+     down on an old gnarled elder-tree, in order that when the body
+     should be found the next morning, it might appear that whilst
+     walking on the terrace, the foot of the count had slipped, and that
+     he had fallen head-foremost on one of the stunted branches of the
+     tree, which, piercing through his eye to the brain, had caused his
+     death. Returning to the hall, they received from Lucrezia a purse
+     of gold; Marzio, carrying with him a valuable cloak trimmed with
+     gold lace, turned towards Beatrice (who still stood leaning against
+     the table), and saying, 'I shall keep this as a memorial of you,'
+     departed with Olympio. The report of Francesco's death was not
+     spread through the castle until the next morning. Lucrezia then
+     rushed through the house uttering cries. In a day or two the
+     funeral took place, and immediately after the family returned to
+     Rome. Giacomo took possession of the Cenci palace, and Beatrice
+     daily improved in health of body and mind.
+
+     "Soon, however, the suspicious circumstances of Count Cenci's
+     death excited attention; the body was exhumed and examined, and
+     the inhabitants of Petrella placed under arrest, when a washerwoman
+     deposed to having received bloody sheets from one of the
+     inhabitants of the castle--she thought from Beatrice--the day after
+     the murder. On hearing this, the fear that he would turn against
+     them, induced Signor Guerra to hire assassins to pursue Olympio,
+     whom they despatched at Terni; but Marzio was arrested, and
+     confessed the circumstances of the murder, though when confronted
+     with Beatrice, he proclaimed her innocence of it, and declared her
+     incapable of crime.
+
+     "Guerra made good his escape, but the whole Cenci family were
+     thrown into prison and put to the torture. Giacomo, Bernardo, and
+     Lucrezia, unable to endure the sufferings of the rack, confessed at
+     once.
+
+     "Such, however, was not the case with the young and beautiful
+     Beatrice. Full of spirit and courage, neither the persuasions nor
+     threats of Moscati the judge could extort from her the smallest
+     confession. She endured the torture of the cord with all the
+     firmness which the purity of her heart inspired. The judge failed
+     to extort from her lips a single word which could throw a shade
+     over her innocence, and at length, believing it useless to pursue
+     the torture further, he suspended the proceedings, and reported
+     them to the pope. But Clement VIII, suspecting that the
+     unwillingness of Moscati to believe Beatrice guilty was induced by
+     her extreme beauty, only replied by consigning the prosecution to
+     another judge, and Beatrice was left in the hands of Luciani, 'a
+     man whose heart was a stranger to every feeling of humanity.' Upon
+     her renewed protestations of innocence, he ordered the torture of
+     the Vigilia.
+
+     "The torture of the Vigilia was as follows:--Upon a high
+     joint-stool, the seat about a span large, and instead of being
+     flat, cut in the form of pointed diamonds, the victim was seated:
+     the legs were fastened together and without support; the hands
+     bound behind the back, and with a running knot attached to a cord
+     descending from the ceiling: the body was loosely attached to the
+     back of the chair, cut also into angular points. A wretch stood
+     near, pushing the victim from side to side, and now and then, by
+     pulling the rope from the ceiling, gave the arms most painful
+     jerks. In this horrible position the sufferer _remained forty
+     hours_, the assistants being changed every fifth hour. At the
+     expiration of this time, Beatrice was carried into the prison more
+     dead than alive. The judge was annoyed at the account he received
+     of the fortitude of Beatrice, and, in a rage, he exclaimed, 'Never
+     shall it be said that a weak girl can escape from my hands, while
+     not one of those condemned have been able to resist my power!'
+
+     "On the third day the examination was renewed, and Beatrice was
+     condemned to the _tortura capillorum_. 'At a given signal, the
+     satellites of the tribunal carried Beatrice under a rope suspended
+     from the ceiling, and twisting into a cord her long and beautiful
+     hair, they attached it, with diabolical art, to the rope, so that
+     the whole body could by this means be raised from the ground. The
+     frightful preparations over, and her protestations of innocence
+     again disregarded, she was elevated from the ground by the hair of
+     her head; at the same time was added another torture, consisting of
+     a mesh of small cords twined about the fingers, twisting them
+     nearly out of joint and dragging the hand almost from the bone of
+     the arm. The wretched girl screamed with agony, while the judge
+     stood by, commanding the suspended rope to be tightened, and
+     raising the body by the hair from the ground gave it a sudden jerk,
+     exhorting her to confess. She cried out in a convulsion for water,
+     rolling her eyes in agony, and exclaiming, 'I am innocent.' The
+     torture being repeated with still greater cruelty, and the
+     fortitude of the young girl remaining unshaken, the judge,
+     believing it impossible that a young female could resist such
+     torments, concluded, with the superstition of the times, that she
+     carried about with her some witchcraft; he ordered her to be
+     examined, and finding no cause of suspicion, was about to have her
+     hair cut off, when it was suggested the torment of the _tortura
+     capillorum_ could not then be renewed; her hair was again fastened
+     to the rope, and for a whole hour she was subjected to such a
+     succession of cruelties as the heart shrinks from narrating: but
+     not a word escaped from her lips, that could compromise her
+     innocence.
+
+     "In the mean time Lucrezia, Giacomo, and Bernardo were taken into
+     the hall Erculeo, and in their presence a repetition of the torture
+     was ordered, to so awful an extent, that she fainted and lay
+     senseless. A new cruelty was devised--the _taxilla_,--her feet were
+     bared, and to the soles was applied a block of heated wood,
+     prepared in such a way as to retain the scorching heat; then did
+     the unhappy girl utter piercing shrieks, and remained some minutes
+     apparently dead. These accumulated tortures were repeated, until
+     her relations, who were handcuffed lest they should render her any
+     assistance, began to implore her with heart-rending tears and
+     entreaties to yield. To this the judge mingled threats and the
+     application of further torments, and enforced them with such
+     rigour, that the victim shrieked in agony, and exclaimed, 'Oh!
+     cease this martyrdom, and I will confess anything.'
+
+     "The tortures were at once suspended and restoratives applied,
+     while her family on their knees implored Beatrice to adhere to her
+     promise, urging that the unnatural cruelties of her father would be
+     a just defence for the crime imputed to her, and that by agreeing
+     to their deposition, she might give them a hope of common
+     liberation. The unhappy girl replied, 'Be it as you wish. I am
+     content to die if I can preserve you'--and to each interrogatory of
+     the judge she replied, '_E vero_,' until asked whether she did not
+     urge the assassins to kill her father, and, on their refusal,
+     propose to commit the crime herself, when she involuntarily
+     exclaimed, 'Impossible, impossible! a tiger could not do it; how
+     much less a daughter!' Threatened anew with the torture, she
+     answered not, but, raising her eyes to Heaven, and moving her lips
+     in prayer, she said, 'Oh my God, Thou knowest if this be true!'
+     Thus did the judge force from Beatrice an assent to a deed at which
+     her very nature revolted.
+
+     "Luciani hastened to the pope with the news that Beatrice had
+     confessed. Clement VIII. was seized with one of those fits of anger
+     to which he was subject, and exclaimed--'Let them all be
+     immediately bound to the tails of wild horses, and dragged through
+     the streets until life is extinct.' The horror evinced by all
+     classes at this sentence induced him to grant a respite of
+     twenty-five days, at the end of which a trial took place, and the
+     advocate Farinacci boldly pleaded the defence of the prisoners. But
+     while their fate was hanging in the balance, the Marchesa
+     Santa-Croce was murdered by her own son, which caused Clement to
+     order the immediate execution of the whole Cenci family, and the
+     entreaties of their friends only induced him to spare the life of
+     Bernardo, with the horrible proviso that he was to remain upon the
+     scaffold and witness the execution of his relations.
+
+     " ... During the fearful and protracted transit to the scaffold, it
+     was the custom of the satellites of the inquisition, at regular
+     intervals, to tear from the body pieces of flesh with heated
+     pincers, but in this instance the pope dispensed with this torture,
+     but ordered that Giacomo should be beaten to death and then
+     quartered. As the procession passed the piazza of the Palazzo
+     Cenci, Giacomo, who had appeared resigned, became dreadfully
+     agitated, and uttered heart-rending cries of, 'My children! my
+     children!' The people shouted, 'Dogs, give him his children!' The
+     procession was proceeding, when the multitude assumed such a
+     threatening aspect, that two of the Compagnia dei Confortati
+     thought themselves authorised to pause, the unhappy man imploring
+     them in accents of despair, to suffer him once more to behold his
+     children. The crowd became pacified on seeing Giacomo descend from
+     the cart and conducted to the vestibule of his palace, where they
+     brought to him his children and his wife. The latter fainted on the
+     last step.
+
+     "The scene that followed was the most affecting and painful that
+     the imagination can picture. His three children clung around his
+     legs, uttering cries that rent the hearts of all present The
+     unhappy man embraced them, telling them that in Bernardo they would
+     find a father; then, fixing his eyes on his unconscious wife, he
+     said, 'Let us go!' Reascending the cart, the procession stopped
+     before the prison of the Corte Savella.
+
+     "Here Beatrice and Lucrezia appeared before the gates, conducted by
+     the Confortati. They knelt down and prayed for some time before the
+     crucifix, and then walked on foot behind the carriage. Lucrezia
+     wore a robe of black, and a long black veil covered her head and
+     shoulders; Beatrice in a dark robe and veil, a handkerchief of
+     cloth of silver on her head, and slippers of white velvet,
+     ornamented with crimson sandals and rosettes, followed.... Twice
+     during the passage, an attempt was made to rescue Beatrice, but
+     each failed, and she reached the chapel, where all the condemned
+     were to receive the blessing of the Sacrament before execution.
+
+     "The first brought out to ascend the scaffold was Bernardo, who,
+     according to the conditions of his reprieve, was to witness the
+     death of his relatives. The poor boy, before he had reached the
+     summit, fell down in a swoon, and was obliged to be supported to
+     his seat of torture. Preceded by the standard and the brethren of
+     the Misericordia, the executioner next entered the chapel to convey
+     Lucrezia. Binding her hands behind her back, and removing the veil
+     that covered her head and shoulders, he led her to the foot of the
+     scaffold. Here she stopped, prayed devoutly, kissed the crucifix,
+     and taking off her shoes, mounted the ladder barefoot. From
+     confusion and terror, she with difficulty ascended, crying out,
+     'Oh, my God! oh, holy brethren, pray for my soul, oh, God, pardon
+     me!' The principal executioner beckoned to her to place herself on
+     the block; the unhappy woman, from her unwieldy figure, being
+     unable to do so, some violence was used, the executioner raised his
+     axe, and with one stroke severed the head from the body! Catching
+     it by the hair, he exposed it, still quivering, to the gaze of the
+     populace; then wrapping it in the veil, he laid it on a bier in the
+     corner of the scaffold, the body falling into a coffin placed
+     underneath. The violence used towards the sufferer had so excited
+     the multitude, that a universal uproar commenced. Forty young men
+     rushed forward to the chapel to rescue Beatrice, but were again
+     defeated, after a short struggle....
+
+     "Meanwhile Beatrice, kneeling in the chapel absorbed in prayer,
+     heeded not the uproar that surrounded her. She rose, as the
+     standard appeared to precede her to the block, and with eagerness
+     demanded, 'Is my mother then really dead?'--Answered in the
+     affirmative, she prayed with fervour; then raising her voice, she
+     said, 'Lord, thou hast called me, and I obey the summons
+     willingly, as I hope for mercy!' Approaching her brother, she bade
+     him farewell, and with a smile of love, said, 'Grieve not for me.
+     We shall be happy in heaven, I have forgiven thee.' Giacomo
+     fainted; his sister, turning round, said, 'Let us proceed!' The
+     executioner appeared with a cord, but seemed afraid to fasten it
+     round her body. She saw this, and with a sad smile said, 'Bind this
+     body; but hasten to release the soul, which pants for immortality!'
+
+     "Scarcely had the victim arrived at the foot of the scaffold, when
+     the square, filled with that vast multitude before so uproarious,
+     suddenly assumed the silence of a desert. Each one bent forward to
+     hear her speak; with every eye riveted on her, and lips apart, it
+     seemed as if their very existence depended on any words she might
+     utter. Beatrice ascended the stairs with a slow but firm step. In a
+     moment she placed herself on the block, which had caused so much
+     fear to Lucrezia. She did not allow the executioner to remove the
+     veil, but laid it herself upon the table. In this dreadful
+     situation she remained a few minutes, a universal cry of horror
+     staying the arm of the executioner. But soon the head of his victim
+     was held up separated from the trunk, which was violently agitated
+     for a few seconds. The miserable Bernardo Cenci, forced to witness
+     the fate of his sister, again swooned away; nor could he be
+     restored to his senses for more than half an hour.
+
+     "Meanwhile the scaffold was made ready for the dreadful punishment
+     destined for Giacomo. Having performed some religious ceremonies,
+     he appeared dressed in a cloak and cap. Turning towards the people,
+     he said in a clear voice, 'Although in the agonies of torture I
+     accused my sister and brother of sharing in the crime for which I
+     suffer, I accused them falsely. Now that I am about to render an
+     account of my actions to God, I solemnly assert their entire
+     innocence. Farewell, my friends. Oh, pray to God for me.'
+
+     "Saying these words, he knelt down; the executioner bound his legs
+     to the block and bandaged his eyes. To particularise the details of
+     this execution would be too dreadful; suffice it to say, he was
+     beaten, beheaded, and quartered in the sight of that vast
+     multitude, and by the side of a brother, who was sprinkled with his
+     blood. All was now over.
+
+     "..... Near the statue of St. Paul, according to custom, were
+     placed three biers, each with four lighted torches. In these were
+     laid the bodies of the victims. A crown of flowers had been placed
+     around the head of Beatrice, who seemed as though in sleep, so
+     calm, so peaceful was that placid face, while a smile such as she
+     wore in life still hovered on her lips. Many a tear was shed over
+     that bier, many a flower was scattered around her, whose fate all
+     mourned--whose innocence none questioned.
+
+     "On that night the bodies were interred. The corpse of Beatrice,
+     clad in the dress she wore on the scaffold, was borne, covered with
+     garlands of flowers, to the church of San Pietro in Montorio; and
+     buried at the foot of the high altar, before Raffaelle's celebrated
+     picture of the Transfiguration."[97]
+
+Retracing our steps to the Piazza della Giudecca and turning left down a
+narrow alley, which is always busy with Jewish traffic, we reach the
+_Piazza delle Tartarughe_, so called from the tortoises which form part
+of the adornments of its lovely little fountain,--designed by Giacomo
+della Porta, the four figures of boys being by Taddeo Landini.
+
+At this point we leave the Ghetto.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Forming one side of the Piazza delle Tartarughe is the _Palazzo
+Costaguti_, celebrated for its six splendid ceilings by great artists,
+viz.:--
+
+    1. _Albani_: Hercules wounding the Centaur Nessus.
+    2. _Domenichino_: Apollo in his car, Time discovering truth,
+        &c., much injured.
+    3. _Guercino_: _Rinaldo_ and _Armida_ in a chariot drawn by dragons.
+    4. _Cav. d'Arpino_: Juno nursing Hercules, Venus and Cupids.
+    5. _Lanfranco_: Justice and Peace.
+    6. _Romanelli_: Arion saved by the dolphin.
+
+In a corner of the piazza, is a well-known _Lace-Shop_, much frequented
+by English ladies, but great powers of bargaining are called for. Almost
+immediately behind this is one of the most picturesque mediæval
+courtyards in the city.
+
+On the same line, at the end of the street, is the _Palazzo Mattei_,
+built by Carlo Maderno (1615) for Duke Asdrubal Mattei, on the site of
+the Circus of Flaminius. The small courtyard of this palace is well
+worth examining, and is one of the handsomest in Rome, being quite
+encrusted, as well as the staircase, with ancient bas-reliefs, busts,
+and other sculptures. It contained a gallery of pictures, the greater
+part of which have been dispersed. The rooms have frescoes by
+_Pomerancio_, _Lanfranco_, _Pietro da Cortona_, _Domenichino_, and
+_Albani_.
+
+Behind this, facing the Via delle Botteghe Oscure, is the vast _Palazzo
+Caëtani_, now inhabited by the learned Don Michael-Angelo Caëtani (Duke
+of Sermoneta and Prince of Teano), whose family is one of the most
+distinguished in the mediæval history of Rome, and which gave Boniface
+VIII. to the church:
+
+    "Lo principe de' nuovi farisei."
+
+    _Dante, Inferno,_ xxvii.
+
+It claims descent from Anatolius, created Count of Gaieta by Pope
+Gregory II. in 730.
+
+Close to the Palazzo Mattei is the _Church of Sta. Caterina de' Funari_,
+built by Giacomo della Porta, in 1563, adjoining a convent of
+Augustinian nuns. The streets in this quarter are interesting as bearing
+witness in their names to the existence of the Circus Flaminius, the
+especial circus of the plebs, which once occupied all the ground near
+this. The _Via delle Botteghe Oscure_, commemorates the dark shops which
+in mediæval times occupied the lower part of the circus, as they do now
+that of the Theatre of Marcellus. The Via dei Funari, the ropemakers who
+took advantage for their work of the light and open space which the
+interior of the deserted circus afforded. The remains of the circus
+existed to the sixteenth century.
+
+Near this, turning right, is the _Piazza di Campitelli_, which contains
+the _Church of S. Maria in Campitelli_, built by Rinaldi for Alexander
+VII. in 1659, upon the site of an oratory erected by Sta. Galla in the
+time of John I. (523-6), in honour of an image of the Virgin, which one
+day miraculously appeared imploring her charity, in company with the
+twelve poor women to whom she was daily in the habit of giving alms. The
+oratory of Sta. Galla was called Sta. Maria in Portico, from the
+neighbouring portico of Octavia, a name which is sometimes applied to
+the present church. The miraculous mendicant image is now enshrined in
+gold and lapis-lazuli over the high altar. Other relics supposed to be
+preserved here are the bodies of Sta. Cyrica, Sta. Victoria, and Sta.
+Vincenza, and half that of Sta. Barbara! The second chapel on the right
+has a picture of the Descent of the Holy Ghost by _Luca Giordano_; in
+the first chapel on the left is the tomb of Prince Altieri, inscribed
+"Umbra," and that of his wife, Donna Laura di Carpegna, inscribed
+"Nihil;" they rest on lions of rosso-antico. In the right transept is
+the tomb, by _Pettrich_, of Cardinal Pacca, who lived in the Palazzo
+Pacca, on the opposite side of the square, and was the faithful friend
+of Pius VII. in his exile. The bas-relief on the tomb, of St. Peter
+delivered by the angel, is in allusion to the deliverance from the
+French captivity.
+
+The name Campitelli is probably derived from Campusteli, because in this
+neighbourhood (see Ch. XIV.) was the Columna Bellica, from which when
+war was declared a dart was thrown into a plot of ground, representing
+the hostile territory,--perhaps the very site of this church.
+
+In the street behind this, leading into the Via di Ara Coeli, are the
+remains of the ancient _Palazzo Margana_, with a very richly-sculptured
+gateway of _c._ 1350.
+
+Opening from hence upon the left is the _Via Tor de' Specchi_, whose
+name commemorates the legend of Virgil as a necromancer, and of his
+magic tower lined with mirrors, in which all the secrets of the city
+were reflected and brought to light.
+
+Here is the famous _Convent of the Tor de' Specchi_, founded by Sta.
+Francesca Romana, and open to the public during the octave of the
+anniversary of her death (following the 9th of March). At this time the
+pavements are strewn with box, the halls and galleries are bright with
+fresh flowers, and Swiss guards are posted at the different turnings, to
+facilitate the circulation of visitors. It is a beautiful specimen of a
+Roman convent. The first hall is painted with ancient frescoes,
+representing scenes in the life of the saint. Here, on a table, is the
+large bowl in which Sta. Francesca prepared ointment for the poor. Other
+relics are her veil, shoes, &c. Passing a number of open cloisters,
+cheerful with flowers and orange-trees, we reach the chapel, where
+sermons or rather lectures are delivered at the anniversary upon the
+story of Sta. Francesca's life, and where her embalmed body may be seen
+beneath the altar. A staircase seldom seen, but especially used by
+Francesca, is only ascended by the nuns upon their knees. It leads to
+her cell and a small chapel, black with age, and preserved as when she
+used them. The picturesque dress of the Oblate sisters who are
+everywhere visible, adds to the interest of the scene.
+
+     "It is no gloomy abode, the Convent of the Tor di Specchi, even in
+     the eyes of those who cannot understand the happiness of a nun. It
+     is such a place as one loves to see children in; where religion is
+     combined with everything that pleases the eye and recreates the
+     mind. The beautiful chapel; the garden with its magnificent
+     orange-trees; the open galleries, with their fanciful decorations
+     and scenic recesses, where a holy picture or figure takes you by
+     surprise, and meets you at every turn; the light airy rooms, where
+     religious prints and ornaments, with flowers, birds, and ingenious
+     toys, testify that innocent enjoyments are encouraged and smiled
+     upon; while from every window may be caught a glimpse of the
+     Eternal City, a spire, a ruined wall,--something that speaks of
+     Rome and its thousand charms.
+
+     "It was on the 21st of March, the festival of St. Benedict, that
+     Francesca herself entered the convent, not as the foundress, but as
+     a humble suppliant for admission. At the foot of the stairs, having
+     taken off her customary black gown, her veil, and her shoes, and
+     placed a cord around her neck, she knelt down, kissed the ground,
+     and, shedding an abundance of tears, made her general confession
+     aloud in the presence of all the Oblates; she described herself as
+     a miserable sinner, a grievous offender against God, and asked
+     permission to dwell amongst them as the meanest of their servants;
+     and to learn from them to amend her life, and enter upon a holier
+     course. The spiritual daughters of Francesca hastened to raise and
+     embrace her; and clothing her with their habit, they led the way to
+     the chapel, where they all returned thanks to God. While she
+     remained there in prayer, Agnese de Lellis, the superioress,
+     assembled the sisters in the chapter-room, and declared to them,
+     that now their true mother and foundress had come amongst them, it
+     would be absurd for her to remain in her present office; that
+     Francesca was their guide, their head, and that into her hands she
+     should instantly resign her authority. They all applauded her
+     decision, and gathering around the Saint, announced to her their
+     wishes. As was to be expected, Francesca strenuously refused to
+     accede to this proposal, and pleaded her inability for the duties
+     of a superioress. The Oblates had recourse to Don Giovanni, the
+     confessor of Francesca, who began by entreating, and finally
+     commanded her acceptance of the charge. His order she never
+     resisted; and accordingly, on the 25th of March, she was duly
+     elected to that office."--_Lady Georgina Fullerton's Life of Sta.
+     Francesca Romana._
+
+     "Sta. Francesca Romana is represented in the dress of a Benedictine
+     nun, a black robe and a white hood or veil; and her proper
+     attribute is an angel, who holds in his hand the book of the Office
+     of the Virgin, open at the words, '_Tenuisti manum dexteram meam,
+     et in voluntate tua deduxisti me, et cum gloria suscepisti me_'
+     (Ps. lxxiii. 23, 24); which attribute is derived from an incident
+     thus narrated in the acts of her canonisation. Though unwearied in
+     her devotions, yet if, during her prayers, she was called away by
+     her husband on any domestic duty, she would close her book, saying
+     that 'a wife and a mother, when called upon, must quit her God at
+     the altar, and find him in her household affairs.' Now it happened
+     once, that, in reciting the Office of Our Lady, she was called away
+     four times just as she was beginning the same verse, and, returning
+     the fifth time, she found that verse written upon the page in
+     letters of golden light by the hand of her guardian
+     angel."--_Jameson's Sacred Art_, p. 151.
+
+Almost opposite the convent is the Via del Monte Tarpeio, a narrow
+alley, leading up to the foot of the Tarpeian rock, beneath the Palazzo
+Caffarelli, and one of the points at which the rock is best seen. This
+spot is believed to have been the site of the house of Spurius Mælius,
+who tried to ingratiate himself with the people, by buying up corn and
+distributing it in a year of scarcity (B.C. 440), but who was in
+consequence put to death by the patricians. His house was razed to the
+ground, and its site, being always kept vacant, went by the name of
+Æquimælium.[98]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+THE PALATINE.
+
+     The Story of the Hill--Orti Farnesiani--The Via Nova--Roma
+     Quadrata--The Houses of the early Kings--Temple of Jupiter
+     Stator--Palace of Augustus--Palace of
+     Vespasian--Crypto-Porticus--Temple of Jupiter-Victor--The Lupercal
+     and the Hut of Faustulus--Palace of Tiberius--Palace of
+     Caligula--Clivus Victoriæ--Ruins of the Kingly Period--Altar of the
+     Genius Loci--House of Hortensius--Septizonium of Severus--Palace of
+     Domitian.
+
+
+"The Palatine formed a trapezium of solid rock, two sides of which were
+about 300 yards in length, the others about 400: the area of its summit,
+to compare it with a familiar object, was nearly equal to the space
+between Pall-Mall and Piccadilly in London."[99]
+
+The history of the Palatine is the history of the City of Rome. Here was
+the Roma Quadrata, the "oppidum," or fortress of the Pelasgi, of which
+the only remaining trace is the name Roma, signifying force. This is the
+fortress where the shepherd-king Evander is represented by Virgil as
+welcoming Æneas.
+
+The Pelasgic fortress was enclosed by Romulus within the limits of this
+new city, which, "after the Etruscan fashion, he traced round the foot
+of the hill with a plough drawn by a bull and a heifer, the furrow being
+carefully made to fall inwards, and the heifer yoked to the near-side,
+to signify that strength and courage were required without, obedience
+and fertility within the city.... The locality thus enclosed was
+reserved for the temples of the gods and the residence of the ruling
+class, the class of patricians or burghers, as Niebuhr has taught us to
+entitle them, which predominated over the dependent commons, and only
+suffered them to crouch for security under the walls of Romulus. The
+Palatine was never occupied by the plebs. In the last age of the
+republic, long after the removal of this partition, or of the civil
+distinction between the great classes of the state, here was still the
+chosen site of the mansions of the highest nobility."[100]
+
+In the time of the early kings the City of Rome was represented by the
+Palatine only. It was at first divided into two parts, one inhabited,
+and the other called Velia, and left for the grazing of cattle. It had
+two gates, the Porta Romana to the north, and the Porta Mugonia--so
+called from the lowing of the cattle--to the south, on the side of the
+Velia.
+
+Augustus was born on the Palatine, and dwelt there in common with other
+patrician citizens in his youth. After he became emperor he still lived
+there, but simply, and in the house of Hortensius, till, on its
+destruction by fire, the people of Rome insisted upon building him a
+palace more worthy of their ruler. This building was the
+foundation-stone of "the Palace of the Cæsars," which in time overran
+the whole hill, and, under Nero, two of the neighbouring hills besides,
+and whose ruins are daily being disinterred and recognised, though much
+confusion still remains regarding their respective sites. In A.D. 663,
+part of the palace remained sufficiently perfect to be inhabited by the
+Emperor Constans, and its plan is believed to have been entire for a
+century after, but it never really recovered its sack by Genseric in
+A.D. 455, in which it was completely gutted, even of the commonest
+furniture; and as years passed on it became imbedded in the soil which
+has so marvellously enshrouded all the ancient buildings of Rome, so
+that till within the last ten years, only a few broken nameless walls
+were visible above ground.
+
+    "Cypress and ivy, weed and wallflower grown
+    Matted and mass'd together, hillocks heap'd
+    On what were chambers, arch crush'd, columns strown
+    In fragments, choked-up vaults, and frescoes steep'd
+    In subterranean damps, where the owl peep'd,
+    Deeming it midnight:--Temples, baths, or halls?
+    Pronounce who can; for all that Learning reap'd
+    From her research has been, that these are walls.--
+    Behold the Imperial Mount! 'Tis thus the mighty falls."
+
+    _Byron, Childe Harold._
+
+How different is this description to that of Claudian (de Sexto
+Consulat. Honorii).
+
+    "The Palatine, proud Rome's imperial seat,
+    (An awful pile) stands venerably great:
+    Thither the kingdoms and the nations come,
+    In supplicating crowds to learn their doom:
+    To Delphi less th' inquiring worlds repair,
+    Nor does a greater god inhabit there:
+    This sure the pompous mansion was design'd
+    To please the mighty rulers of mankind;
+    Inferior temples rise on either hand,
+    And on the borders of the palace stand,
+    While o'er the rest her head she proudly rears,
+    And lodged amidst her guardian gods appears."
+
+    _Addison's Translation._
+
+After the middle of the sixteenth century a great part of the Palatine
+became the property of the Farnese family, latterly represented by the
+Neapolitan Bourbons, who sold the "Orti Farnesiani," in 1861, to the
+Emperor Napoleon III., for £10,000. Up to that time this part of the
+Palatine was a vast kitchen-garden, broken here and there by picturesque
+groups of ilex trees and fragments of mouldering wall. In one corner was
+a casino of the Farnese (still standing) adorned in fresco by some of
+the pupils of Raphael. This and all the later buildings in the "Orti,"
+are marked with the Farnese _fleur-de-lis_, and on the principal
+staircase of the garden is some really grand distemper ornament of their
+time. Since 1861 extensive excavations have been carried on here under
+the superintendence of Signor Rosa, which have resulted in the discovery
+of the palaces of some of the earlier emperors, and the substructions of
+several temples. After the revolution of 1870 the French portion of the
+Palatine was sold by the Ex-Emperor Napoleon to the Roman municipal
+government.
+
+In visiting the Palace of the Cæsars, it will naturally be asked how it
+is known that the different buildings are what they are described to be.
+In a great measure this has been ascertained from the descriptions of
+Tacitus and other historians,--but the greatest assistance of all has
+been obtained from the Tristia of Ovid, who, while in exile, consoles
+himself by recalling the different buildings of his native city, which
+he mentions in describing the route taken by his book, which he had
+persuaded a friend to convey to the imperial library. He supposes the
+book to enter the Palatine by the Clivus Victoriæ behind the Temple of
+Vesta, and follows its course, remarking the different objects it passed
+on the right or the left.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+If we enter the palace by the Farnese gateway, on the right of the
+Campo-Vaccino, opposite SS. Cosmo e Damiano, we had better only ascend
+the first division of the staircase and then turn to the left. Passing
+along the lower ridge of the Palatine, afterwards occupied by many of
+the great patrician houses, whose sites we shall return to and examine
+in detail, we reach that corner of the garden which is nearest to the
+Arch of Titus. Here a paved road of large blocks of lava has lately been
+laid bare, and is identified beyond a doubt as part of the Via Nova,
+which led from the Porta Mugonia of the Palatine along the base of the
+hill to the Velabrum. In the reign of Augustus it appears to have been
+made to communicate also with the Forum.
+
+    "Qua Nova Romano nunc Via juncta Foro est."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ vi. 396.
+
+At this point the road was called _Summa Via Nova_.
+
+Near this spot must have been the site of the house where Octavius lived
+with his wife Afra, the niece of Julius Cæsar (daughter of his eldest
+sister Julia), and where their son, Octavius, afterwards the Emperor
+Augustus, was born. This house afterwards passed into the possession of
+C. Lætorius, a patrician; but after the death of Augustus, part of it
+was turned into a chapel, and consecrated to him. It was situated at the
+top of a staircase--"supra scalas annularias"[101]--which probably led
+to the Forum, and is spoken of as "ad capita bubula," perhaps from
+bulls' heads, with which it may have been decorated.
+
+Here we find ourselves, owing to the excavations, in a deep hollow
+between the two divisions of the hill. On the left is the Velia, upon
+which, near the Porta Mugonia, the Sabine king, Ancus Martius, had his
+palace. When Ancus died, he was succeeded by an Etruscan stranger,
+Lucius Tarquinius, who took the name of Tarquinius Priscus. This king
+also lived upon the Velia,[102] with Tanaquil his queen, and here he was
+murdered in a popular rising, caused by the sons of his predecessor.
+Here his brave wife Tanaquil closed the doors, concealed the death of
+the king, harangued the people from the windows,[103] and so gained time
+till Servius Tullius was prepared to take the dead king's place and
+avenge his murder.[104]
+
+Keeping to the valley, on our right are now some huge blocks of tufa, of
+great interest as part of the ancient _Roma Quadrata_, anterior to
+Romulus. Beyond this, also on the right, are foundations of the _Temple
+of Jupiter Stator_, built by Romulus, who vowed that he would found a
+temple to Jupiter under that name, if he would arrest the flight of his
+Roman followers in their conflict with the superior forces of the
+Sabines.[105]
+
+    "Inde petens dextram, porta est, ait, ista Palati;
+    Hic Stator, hoc primum condita Roma loco est."
+
+    _Ovid, Trist._ iii. El. I.
+
+    "Tempus idem Stator ædis habet, quam Romulus olim
+    Ante Palatini condidit ora jugi."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ vi. 793.
+
+The temple of Jupiter Stator has an especial interest from its
+connection with the story of Cicero and Catiline.
+
+     "Cicéron rassembla le sénat dans le temple de Jupiter Stator. Le
+     choix du lieu s'explique facilement; ce temple était près de la
+     principale entrée du Palatin sur le Vélia, dominant, en cas
+     d'émeute, le Forum, que Cicéron et les principaux sénateurs
+     habitants du Palatin n'avaient pas à traverser comme s'il eût fallu
+     se rendre à la Curie. D'ailleurs Jupiter Stator, qui avait arrêté
+     les Sabines à la porte de Romulus, arrêterait ces nouveaux ennemis
+     qui voulaient sa ruine. Là Cicéron prononça la première
+     Catilinaire. Ce discours dut être en grande partie improvisé, car
+     les événements aussi improvisaient. Cicéron ne savait si Catilina
+     oserait se présenter devant le sénat; en le voyant entrer, il
+     conçut son fameux exorde: 'Jusqu'à quand, Catilina, abuseras-tu de
+     notre patience!'
+
+     "Malgré la garde volontaire de chevaliers qui avait accompagné
+     Cicéron et qui se tenait à la porte du temple, Catilina y entra et
+     salua tranquillement l'assemblée; nul ne lui rendit son salut, à
+     son approche on s'écarta et les places restèrent vides autour de
+     lui. Il écouta les foudroyantes apostrophes de Cicéron, qui, après
+     l'avoir accablé des preuves de son crime, se bornait à lui dire:
+     'Sors de Rome. Va-t-en!'
+
+     "Catilina se leva et d'un air modeste pria le sénat de ne pas
+     croire le consul avant qu'une enquête eût été faite. 'II n'est pas
+     vraisemblable, ajouta-t-il, avec une hauteur toute aristocratique,
+     qu'un patricien, lequel, aussi bien que ses ancêtres, a rendu
+     quelques services à la république, ne puisse exister que par sa
+     ruine, et qu'on ait besoin d'un étranger d'Arpinum pour la sauver.'
+     Tant d'orgueil et d'impudence révoltèrent l'assemblée; on cria à
+     Catilina: 'Tu es un ennemi de la patrie, un meurtrier.' Il sortit,
+     réunit encore ses amis, leur recommanda de se débarasser de
+     Cicéron, prit avec lui un aigle d'argent qui avait appartenu à une
+     légion de Marius, et à minuit quitta Rome et partit par la voie
+     Aurélia pour aller rejoindre son armée."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iv.
+     445.
+
+Nearly opposite the foundations of Jupiter Stator, on the left,--are
+some remains considered to be those of the Porta Palatii.
+
+The valley is now blocked by a vast mass of building which entirely
+closes it. This is the palace of Augustus, built in the valley between
+the Velia and the other eminence of the Palatine, which Rosa, contrary
+to other opinions, identifies with the _Germale_. The division of the
+Palatine thus named, was reckoned as one of "the seven hills" of
+ancient Rome. Its name was thought to be derived from Germani, owing to
+Romulus and Remus being found in its vicinity.[106]
+
+The _Palace of Augustus_ was begun soon after the battle of Actium, and
+gradually increased in size, till the whole valley was blocked up by it,
+and its roofs became level with the hill-sides. Part of the ground which
+it covered had previously been occupied by the villa of Catiline.[107]
+Here Suetonius says that Augustus occupied the same bed-room for forty
+years. Before the entrance of the palace it was ordained by the Senate,
+B.C. 26, that two bay-trees should be planted, in remembrance of the
+citizens he had preserved, while an oak wreath was placed above the gate
+in commemoration of his victories.
+
+    "Singula dum miror, video fulgentibus armis
+      Conspicuos postes, tectaque digna deo.
+    An Jovis hæc, dixi, domus est? Quod ut esse putarem,
+      Augurium menti querna corona dabat.
+    Cujus ut accepi dominum, non fallimur, inquam:
+      Et magni rerum est hanc Jovis esse domum.
+    Cur tamen apposita velatur janua lauro?
+      Cingit et Augustas arbor opaca fores?"
+
+    _Ovid, Trist._ i. 33.
+
+    "State Palatinæ laurus; prætextaque quercu
+      Stet domus; æternos tres habet una deos."
+
+    _Fast._ iv. 953.
+
+It was before the gate of this palace that Augustus upon one day in
+every year sate as a beggar, receiving alms from the passers-by, in
+obedience to a vision that he should thus appease Nemesis.
+
+Upon the top of this building of Augustus, Vespasian built his palace in
+A.D. 70, not only using the walls of the older palace as a support for
+his own, but filling the chambers of the earlier building entirely up
+with earth, so that they became a solid massive foundation. The ruins
+which we visit are thus for the most part those of the palace of
+Vespasian, but from one of its halls we can descend into rooms
+underneath excavated from the palace of Augustus. The three projecting
+rostra which we now see in front of the palace are restorations by
+Signor Rosa.
+
+The palace on the Palatine was not the place where the emperors
+generally lived. They resided at their villas, and came into the town to
+the Palace of the Cæsars for the transaction of public business. Thus
+this palace was, as it were, the St. James's of Rome. The fatigue and
+annoyance of a public arrival every morning, amid the crowd of clients
+who always waited upon the imperial footsteps, was naturally very great,
+and to obviate this the emperors made use of a subterranean passage
+which ran round the whole building, and by which they were enabled to
+arrive unobserved, and not to present themselves in public till their
+appearance upon the rostra in front of the building to receive the
+morning salutations of their people.
+
+If we ascend a winding path to the right, to the garden which now covers
+the greater part of the hill Germale, we shall find a staircase which
+descends on the left to join this passage, following which, we will
+ascend, with the emperor, into his palace.
+
+The passage, called _Crypto-Porticus_, is still quite perfect, and
+retains a great part of its mosaic pavements and much of its inlaid
+ceilings, from which the gilt mosaic has been picked out, but the
+pattern is still traceable. The passage was lighted from above. It was
+by this route that St. Laurence was led up for trial in the basilica,
+of the palace. Turning to the left, we again emerge upon the upper
+level.
+
+The emperor here reached the palace, but as he did not yet wish to
+appear in public, he turned to the left by the private passage called
+_Fauces_, which still remains, running behind the main halls of the
+building. Here he was received by the different members of the imperial
+family, much as Napoleon III. was received by Princesses Mathilde,
+Clotilde, and the Murats, in a private apartment at the Tuileries,
+before entering the ball-room. Hence, passing across the end of the
+basilica, the emperor reached the portico in front of the palace,
+looking down upon the hollow space where were the Temple of Jupiter
+Stator and the other buildings connected with the early history of the
+Roman state. Here the whole Court received him and escorted him to the
+central rostra, where he had his public reception from the people
+assembled below, and whence perhaps he addressed to them a few words of
+morning salutation in return. The attendants meanwhile defiled on either
+side to the lower terraced elevation, which still remains.
+
+This ceremony being gone through, the emperor returned as he came, to
+the basilica, for the transaction of business.
+
+The name Basilica means "King's House." It was the ancient Law Court. It
+usually had a portico, was oblong in form, and ended in an apse for
+ornament. The Christians adopted it for their places of worship because
+it was the largest type of building then known. They also adopted the
+names of the different parts of the pagan basilica, as the Confessional,
+from the _Confession_, the bar of justice at which the criminal was
+placed,--the Tribune, from the _Tribunal_ of the Judge, &c. A chapel
+and sacristy added on either side produced the form of the cross. The
+_Basilica_ here is of great width. A leg of the emperor's chair actually
+remains _in situ_ upon the tribunal, and part of the richly wrought bar
+of the Confession still exists. This was the bar at which St. Laurence
+and many other Christian martyrs were judged. The basilica in the palace
+of the Cæsars was also the scene of the trial of Valerius Asiaticus in
+the time of Claudius (see Chap. II.), when the Empress Messalina, who
+was seated near the emperor upon the tribunal, was so overcome by the
+touching eloquence of the innocent man, that she was obliged to leave
+the hall to conceal her emotion,--but characteristically whispered as
+she went out, that the accused must nevertheless on no account be
+suffered to escape with his life,[108]--that she might take possession
+of his Pincian Garden, which was as Naboth's Vineyard in her eyes. An
+account is extant which describes how it was necessary to increase the
+width of the seat upon the tribunal at this period, in consequence of a
+change in the fashion of dress among the Roman ladies.
+
+This basilica, though perhaps not then itself in existence, will always
+have peculiar interest as showing the form and character of that earlier
+basilica in the Palace of the Cæsars, in which St. Paul was tried before
+Nero. But it is quite possible that it may be the same actual basilica
+itself,--and that the palace of Nero which overran the whole of the
+hill, may have had its basilica on this site, where it was preserved by
+Vespasian in his later and more contracted palace.
+
+     "The appeals from the provinces in civil causes were heard, not by
+     the emperor himself, but by his delegates, who were persons of
+     consular rank: Augustus had appointed one such delegate to hear
+     appeals from each province respectively. But criminal appeals
+     appear generally to have been heard by the emperor in person,
+     assisted by his council of assessors. Tiberius and Claudius had
+     usually sat for this purpose in the Forum; but Nero, after the
+     example of Augustus, heard these causes in the imperial palace,
+     whose ruins still crown the Palatine. Here, at one end of a
+     splendid hall,[109] lined with the precious marbles of Egypt and of
+     Libya, we must imagine Cæsar seated in the midst of his assessors.
+     These councillors, twenty in number, were men of the highest rank
+     and greatest influence. Among them were the two consuls and
+     selected representatives of each of the other great magistracies of
+     Rome. The remainder consisted of senators chosen by lot. Over this
+     distinguished bench of judges presided the representatives of the
+     most powerful monarchy which has ever existed,--the absolute ruler
+     of the whole civilised world.
+
+     "Before the tribunal of the blood-stained adulterer Nero, Paul was
+     brought in fetters, under the custody of his military guard. The
+     prosecutors and their witnesses were called forward, to support
+     their accusation; for although the subject-matter for decision was
+     contained in the written depositions forwarded from Judæa by
+     Festus, yet the Roman law required the personal presence of the
+     accusers and the witnesses, whenever it could be obtained. We
+     already know the charges brought against the Apostle. He was
+     accused of disturbing the Jews in the exercise of their worship,
+     which was secured to them by law; of desecrating their Temple; and,
+     above all, of violating the public peace of the empire by perpetual
+     agitation, as the ringleader of a new and factious sect. This
+     charge was the most serious in the view of a Roman statesman; for
+     the crime alleged amounted to _majestas_, or treason against the
+     commonwealth, and was punishable with death.
+
+     "These accusations were supported by the emissaries of the
+     Sanhedrim, and probably by the testimony of witnesses from Judæa,
+     Ephesus, Corinth, and the other scenes of Paul's activity.... When
+     the parties on both sides had been heard, and the witnesses all
+     examined, the judgment of the court was taken. Each of the
+     assessors gave his opinion in writing to the emperor, who never
+     discussed the judgment with his assessors, as had been the practice
+     of better emperors, but after reading their opinion, gave sentence
+     according to his own pleasure, without reference to the judgment
+     of the majority. On this occasion it might have been expected that
+     he would have pronounced the condemnation of the accused, for the
+     influence of Poppæa had now reached its culminating point, and she
+     was a Jewish proselyte. We can scarcely doubt that the emissaries
+     from Palestine would have demanded her aid for the destruction of a
+     traitor to the Jewish faith; nor would any scruples have prevented
+     her listening to their request, backed as it probably was,
+     according to Roman usage, by a bribe. However this may be, the
+     trial resulted in the acquittal of St. Paul. He was pronounced
+     guiltless of the charges brought against him, his fetters were
+     struck off, and he was liberated from his long
+     captivity."--_Conybeare and Howson._
+
+Beyond the basilica is the _Tablinum_, the great hall of the palace,
+which served as a kind of commemorative domestic museum, where family
+statues and pictures were preserved. This vast room was lighted from
+above, on the plan which may still be seen at Sta. Maria degli Angeli,
+which was in fact a great hall of a Roman house. The roof of this hall
+was one vast arch, unsupported except by the side walls. We have record
+of a period when these walls were supposed insufficient for the great
+weight, and had to be strengthened, in interesting confirmation of which
+we can still see how the second wall was added and united to the first.
+
+Appropriately opening from the family picture gallery of the Tablinum,
+was the _Lararium_, a private chapel for the worship of such members of
+the family--Livia and many others--as were deified after death. An
+altar, on the original site, has been erected here by Signor Rosa, from
+bits which have been found.
+
+Hitherto the chambers which we have visited were open to the public;
+beyond this, none but his immediate family and attendants could follow
+the emperor. We now enter the _Peristyle_, a courtyard, which was open
+to the sky, but surrounded with arcades ornamented with statues, where
+we may imagine that the empresses amused themselves with their birds
+and flowers. Hence, by a narrow staircase, we can descend into what is
+perhaps the most interesting portion of the whole, the one unearthed
+fragment of the actual _Palace of Augustus_, which still retains remains
+of gilding and fresco, and an artistic group in stucco. An original
+window remains, and it will be recollected on looking at it, that when
+this was built it was not subterranean, but merely in the hollow of the
+valley, afterwards filled up. In these actual rooms may have lived
+Livia, who in turn inhabited three houses on the Palatine, first that of
+her first husband Nero Drusus, whom Augustus compelled her to divorce;
+then the imperial house of Augustus; and lastly that of Tiberius, the
+son by her first husband, whom she was the means of raising to the
+throne.
+
+We now reach the _Triclinium_ or dining-room, surrounded by a skirting
+of pavonazzetto with a cornice of giallo. Tacitus describes a scene in
+the imperial triclinium, in which the Emperor Tiberius is represented as
+reclining at dinner, having on one side his aged mother, the Empress
+Livia, and on the other his niece Agrippina, widow of Germanicus and
+granddaughter of the great Augustus.[110] It was while the imperial
+family were seated at a banquet in the triclinium, in the time of Nero,
+that his young step-brother Britannicus (son of Claudius and Messalina)
+swallowed the cup of poison which the emperor had caused Locusta to
+prepare and sank back dead upon his couch, his wretched sisters Antonia
+and Octavia, also seated at the ghastly feast, not daring to give
+expression to their grief and horror,--and Nero merely desiring the
+attendants to carry the boy out, and saying that it was a fit to which
+he was subject.[111] Here it was that Marcia the concubine presented the
+cup of drugged wine to the wicked Commodus, on his return from a wild
+beast hunt, and produced the heavy slumber during which he was strangled
+by the wrestler Narcissus. In this very room also his successor
+Pertinax, who had spent his short reign of three months in trying to
+reform the State, resuscitate the finances, and to heal, as far as
+possible, 'the wounds inflicted by the hand of tyranny,' received the
+news that the guard, impatient of unwonted discipline, had risen against
+him, and going forth to meet his assassins, fell, covered with wounds,
+just in front of the palace.[112]
+
+Vitruvius says that every well-arranged Roman house has a dining-room
+opening into a nymphæum, and accordingly here, on the right, is a
+_Nymphæum_, with a beautiful fountain surrounded by miniature niches,
+once filled with bronzes and statues. Water was conveyed hither by the
+Neronian aqueduct. The pavement of this room was of oriental alabaster,
+of which fragments remain.
+
+Beyond the Triclinium is a disgusting memorial of Roman imperial life,
+in the _Vomitorium_, with its bason, whither the feasters retired to
+tickle their throats with feathers, and come back with renewed appetite
+to the banquet.
+
+We now reach the portico which closed the principal apartments of the
+palace on the south-west. Some of its Corinthian pillars have been
+re-erected on the sites where they were found. From hence we can look
+down upon some grand walls of republican times, formed of huge tufa
+blocks.
+
+Passing a space of ground, called, without much authority,
+_Bibliotheca_, we reach a small _Theatre_ on the edge of the hill,
+interesting as described by Pliny, and because the Emperor Vespasian,
+who is known to have been especially fond of reciting his own
+compositions, probably did so here. Hence we may look down upon the
+valley between the Palatine and Aventine, where the rape of the Sabines
+took place, and upon the site of the Circus Maximus. From hence, we may
+imagine, that the later emperors surveyed the hunts and games in that
+circus, when they did not care to descend into the amphitheatre itself.
+
+Beyond this, on the right, is (partially restored) the grand staircase
+leading to the platform once occupied by the _Temple of Jupiter-Victor_,
+vowed by Fabius Maximus during the Samnite war, in the assurance that he
+would gain the victory. On the steps is a sacrificial altar, which
+retains its grooves for the blood of the victims, with an inscription
+stating that it was erected by "Cnæus Domitius C. Calvinus,
+Pontifex,"--who was a general under Julius Cæsar, and consul B.C. 53 and
+B.C. 40.
+
+Now, for some distance, there are no remains, because this space was
+always kept clear, for here, constantly renewed, stood the _Hut of
+Faustulus and the Sacred Fig-tree_.
+
+     "The old Roman legend ran as follows:--Procas, king of Alba, left
+     two sons. Numitor, the elder, being weak and spiritless, suffered
+     Amulius to wrest the government from him, and reduce him to his
+     father's private estates. In the enjoyment of these he lived rich,
+     and, as he desired nothing more, secure: but the usurper dreaded
+     the claims that might be set up by heirs of a different character.
+     He had Numitor's son murdered, and appointed his daughter, Silvia,
+     one of the Vestal virgins.
+
+     "Amulius had no children, or at least only one daughter: so that
+     the race of Anchises and Aphrodite seemed on the point of
+     expiring, when the love of a god prolonged it, in spite of the
+     ordinances of man, and gave it a lustre worthy of its origin.
+     Silvia had gone into the sacred grove, to draw water from the
+     spring for the service of the temple. The sun quenched its rays:
+     the sight of a wolf made her fly into a cave: there Mars
+     overpowered the timid virgin, and then consoled her with the
+     promise of noble children, as Posidon consoled Tyro, the daughter
+     of Salmoneus. But he did not protect her from the tyrant; nor could
+     the protestations of her innocence save her. Vesta herself seemed
+     to demand the condemnation of the unfortunate priestess; for at the
+     moment when she was delivered of twins, the image of the goddess
+     hid its eyes, her altar trembled, and her fire died away. Amulius
+     ordered that the mother and her babes should be drowned in the
+     river. In the Anio Silvia exchanged her earthly life for that of a
+     goddess. The river carried the bole or cradle, in which the
+     children were lying, into the Tiber, which had overflowed its banks
+     far and wide, even to the foot of the woody hills. At the root of a
+     wild fig-tree, the Ficus Ruminalis, which was preserved and held
+     sacred for many centuries, at the foot of the Palatine, the cradle
+     overturned. A she-wolf came to drink of the stream: she heard the
+     whimpering of the children, carried them into her den hard by, made
+     a bed for them, licked and suckled them. When they wanted other
+     food than milk, a woodpecker, the bird sacred to Mars, brought it
+     to them. Other birds consecrated to auguries hovered over them, to
+     drive away insects. This marvellous spectacle was seen by
+     Faustulus, the shepherd of the royal flocks. The she-wolf drew
+     back, and gave up the children to human nature. Acca Laurentia, his
+     wife, became their foster-mother. They grew up, along with her
+     twelve sons, on the Palatine hill, in straw huts which they built
+     for themselves: that of Romulus was preserved by continual repairs,
+     as a sacred relic, down to the time of Nero. They were the stoutest
+     of the shepherd lads, fought bravely against wild beasts and
+     robbers, maintaining their right against every one by their might,
+     and turning might into right. Their booty they shared with their
+     comrades. The followers of Romulus were called Quinctilii, those of
+     Remus Fabii: the seeds of discord were soon sown amongst them.
+     Their wantonness engaged them in disputes with the shepherds of the
+     wealthy Numitor, who fed their flocks on Mount Aventine: so that
+     here, as in the story of Evander and Cacus, we find the quarrel
+     between the Palatine and the Aventine in the tales of the remotest
+     times. Remus was taken by the stratagem of these shepherds, and
+     dragged to Alba as a robber. A secret foreboding, the remembrance
+     of his grandsons, awakened by the story of the two brothers, kept
+     Numitor from pronouncing a hasty sentence. The culprit's
+     foster-father hastened with Romulus to the city, and told the old
+     man and the youths of their kindred. They resolved to avenge their
+     own wrong and that of their house. With their faithful comrades,
+     whom the dangers of Remus had brought to the city, they slew the
+     king; and the people of Alba again became subject to Numitor.
+
+     "But love for the home which fate had assigned them drew the youths
+     back to the banks of the Tiber, to found a city there, and the
+     shepherds, their old companions, were their first citizens.... This
+     is the old tale, as it was written by Fabius, and sung in ancient
+     lays down to the time of Dionysius."--_Niebuhr's Hist. of Rome._
+
+In the cliff of the Palatine, below the fig-tree, was shown for many
+centuries the cavern Lupercal, sacred from the earliest times to the
+Pelasgic god Pan.
+
+    "Hinc lucum ingentum, quem Romulus acer Asylum
+    Retulit, et gelidâ monstrat sub rupe Lupercal,
+    Parrhasio dictum Panos de monte Lycæi."
+
+    _Virgil, Æn._ viii. 342.
+
+     "La louve, nourrice de Romulus, a peut-être été imaginée en raison
+     des rapports mythologiques qui existaient entre le loup et Pan
+     défenseur des troupeaux. Ce qu'il y a de sûr, c'est que les fêtes
+     lupercales gardèrent le caractère du dieu en l'honneur duquel elles
+     avaient été primitivement instituées et l'empreinte d'une origine
+     pélasgique; ces fêtes au temps de Cicéron avaient encore un
+     caractère pastoral en mémoire de l'Arcadie d'où on les croyait
+     venues. Les Luperques qui représentaient les Satyres, compagnons de
+     Pan, faisaient le tour de l'antique séjour des Pélasges sur le
+     Palatin. Ces hommes nus allaient frappant avec les lanières de peau
+     de bouc, l'animal lascif par excellence, les femmes pour les rendre
+     fécondes; des fêtes analogues se célébraient en Arcadie sous le nom
+     de Lukéia (les fêtes des loups), dont le mot lupercales est une
+     traduction."--_Ampère, Hist. Rome_, i. 143.
+
+In the hut of Romulus were preserved several objects venerated as relics
+of him.
+
+     "On conservait le bâton augural avec lequel Romulus avait dessiné
+     sur le ciel, suivant le rite étrusque, l'espace où s'était
+     manifesté le grand auspice des douze vautours dans lesquels Rome
+     crut voir la promesse des douze siècles qu'en effet le destin
+     devait lui accorder. Tous les augures se servirent par la suite de
+     ce bâton sacré, qui fut trouvé intact après l'incendie du monument
+     dans lequel il était conservé, miracle païen dont l'equivalent
+     pourrait se rencontrer dans plus d'une légende de la Rome
+     chrétienne. On montrait le cornouiller né du bois de la lance que
+     Romulus, avec la vigueur surhumaine d'un demi-dieu, avait jetée de
+     l'Aventin sur le Palatin, où elle s'était enfoncée dans la terre et
+     avait produit un grand arbre.
+
+     "On montrait sur le Palatin le berceau et la cabane de Romulus.
+     Plutarque a vu ce berceau, le _Santo-Presepio_ des anciens Romains,
+     qui était attaché avec des liens d'airain, et sur lequel on avait
+     tracé des caractères mystérieux. La cabane était à un seul étage,
+     en planches et couverte de roseaux, que l'on reconstruisait
+     pieusement chaque fois qu'un incendie la détruisait; car elle brûla
+     à diverses reprises, ce que la nature des matériaux dont elle était
+     formée fait croire facilement. J'ai vu dans les environs de Rome un
+     cabaret rustique dont la toiture était exactement pareille à celle
+     de là cabane de Romulus."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ i. 342.
+
+Turning along the terrace which overhangs the Velabrum we reach the
+ruins of the _Palace of Tiberius_,[113] in which he resided during the
+earlier part of his reign, when he was under the influence of his aged
+and imperious mother Livia. Here he had to mourn for Drusus, his only
+son, who fell a victim (A.D. 23) to poison administered to him by his
+wife Livilla and her lover the favourite Sejanus. Here also, in A.D. 29,
+died Livia, widow of Augustus, at the age of eighty-six, "a memorable
+example of successful artifice, having attained in succession, by craft
+if not by crime, every object she could desire in the career of female
+ambition."[114]
+
+The row of arches remaining are those of the soldiers' quarters. In the
+fourth arch is a curious _graffite_ of a ship. In another the three
+pavements in use at different times may be seen _in situ_, one above
+another. On the terrace above these arches has recently been discovered
+a large piscina, or _fish-pond_, and the painted chambers of a building,
+which is supposed to have been the _House of Drusus_ (elder brother of
+Tiberius) _and Antonia_. Several of the rooms in this building are
+richly decorated in fresco, one has a picture of a street with figures
+of females going to a sacrifice, and of ladies at their toilette;
+another of Mercury, Io, and Argus; and a third of Galatea and
+Polyphemus. From the names of the characters in these pictures
+represented being affixed to them in Greek, we may naturally conclude
+that they are the work of Greek artists.
+
+The north-eastern corner of the area is entirely occupied by the vast
+ruins of the _Palace of Caligula_, built against the side of the hill
+above the _Clivus Victorioe_, which still remains, and consisting of
+ranges of small rooms, communicating with open galleries, edged by
+marble balustrades, of which a portion exists. In these rooms the
+half-mad Caius Caligula rushed about, sometimes dressed as a charioteer,
+sometimes as a warrior, and delighted in astonishing his courtiers by
+his extraordinary pranks, or shocking them by trying to enforce a belief
+in his own divinity.[115]
+
+     "C'est dans ce palais que, tourmenté par l'insomnie et par
+     l'agitation de son âme furieuse, il passera une partie de la nuit à
+     errer sous d'immenses portiques, attendant et appellant le jour.
+     C'est là aussi qu'il aura l'incroyable idée de placer un dieu
+     infâme.
+
+     "Caligula se fit bâtir sur le Palatin deux temples. Il avait
+     d'abord voulu avoir une demeure sur le mont Capitolin; mais, ayant
+     réfléchi que Jupiter l'avait precédé au Capitole, il en prit de
+     l'humeur et retourna sur le Palatin. Dans les folies de Caligula,
+     on voit se manifester cette pensée: Je suis dieu! pensée qui
+     n'était peut-être pas très-extraordinaire chez un jeune homme de
+     vingt-cinq ans devenu tout-à-coup maître du monde. Il parut en
+     effet croire à sa divinité, prenant le nom et les attributs de
+     divers dieux, et changeant de nature divine en changeant de
+     perruque.
+
+     "Non content de s'élever un temple à lui-même, Caligula en vint à
+     être son propre prêtre et à s'adorer. Le despotisme oriental avait
+     connu cette adoration étrange de soi: sur les monuments de l'Egypte
+     on voit Ramsès-roi présenter son offrande à Ramsès-dieu; mais
+     Caligula fit ce que n'avait fait aucun Pharaon; il se donna pour
+     collègue, dans ce culte de sa propre personne, son cheval, qu'il ne
+     nomma pas, mais qu'il songea un moment de nommer consul."--_Ampère,
+     Emp._ ii. 8.
+
+     Here "one day at a public banquet, when the consuls were reclining
+     by his side, Caligula burst suddenly into a fit of laughter; and
+     when they courteously inquired the cause of his mirth, astounded
+     them by coolly replying that he was thinking how by one word he
+     could cause both their heads to roll on the floor. He amused
+     himself with similar banter even with his wife Cæsonia, for whom he
+     seems to have had a stronger feeling than for any of his former
+     consorts. While fondling her neck he is reported to have said,
+     'Fair as it is, how easily I could sever it.'"--_Merivale_, ch.
+     xlviii.
+
+After the murder of Caligula (Jan. 24, 794) by the tribune Cheræa, in
+the vaulted passage which led from the palace to the theatre, a singular
+chance which occurred in this part of the palace led to the elevation of
+Claudius to the throne.
+
+     "In the confusion which ensued upon the death of Caius, several of
+     the prætorian guards had flung themselves furiously into the palace
+     and began to plunder its glittering chambers. None dared to offer
+     them any opposition; the slaves or freedmen fled and concealed
+     themselves. One of the inmates, half-hidden behind a curtain in an
+     obscure corner, was dragged forth with brutal violence; and great
+     was the intruder's surprise when they recognised him as Claudius,
+     the long despised and neglected uncle of the murdered emperor.[116]
+     He sank at their feet almost senseless with terror: but the
+     soldiers in their wildest mood still respected the blood of the
+     Cæsars, and instead of slaying or maltreating the suppliant, the
+     brother of Germanicus, they hailed him, more in jest perhaps than
+     earnest, with the title of Imperator, and carried him off to their
+     camp."--_Merivale_, ch. xlix.
+
+In this same palace Claudius was feasting when he was told that his
+hitherto idolised wife Messalina was dead, without being told whether
+she died by her own hand or another's,--and asked no questions, merely
+desiring a servant to pour him out some more wine, and went on eating
+his supper.[117] Here also Claudius, who so dearly loved eating,
+devoured his last and fatal supper of poisoned mushrooms which his next
+loving wife (and niece) Agrippina prepared for him, to make way for her
+son Nero upon the throne.[118]
+
+The Clivus Victoriæ commemorates by its name the _Temple of
+Victory_,[119] said to have been founded by the Sabine aborigines before
+the time of Romulus, and to be the earliest temple at Rome of which
+there is any mention except that of Saturnus. This temple was rebuilt by
+the consul L. Posthumius.
+
+Chief of a group of small temples, the famous _Temple of Cybele_,
+"Mother of the Gods," stood at this corner of the Palatine. Thirteen
+years before it was built, the "Sacred Stone," the form under which the
+"Idæan Mother" was worshipped, had been brought from Pessinus in
+Phrygia, because, according to the Sibylline books, frequent showers of
+stones which had occurred could only be expiated by its being
+transported to Rome. It was given up to the Romans by their ally
+Attalus, king of Pergamus, and P. Cornelius Scipio, the young brother of
+Africanus--accounted the worthiest and most virtuous of the Romans--was
+sent to receive it. As the vessel bearing the holy stone came up the
+Tiber it grounded at the foot of the Aventine, when the aruspices
+declared that only chaste hands would be able to move it. Then the
+Vestal Claudia drew the vessel up the river by a rope.
+
+     "Ainsi Sainte Brigitte, Suédoise morte à Rome, prouva sa pureté en
+     touchant le bois de l'autel, qui reverdit soudain. Une statue fut
+     érigée à Claudia, dans le vestibule du temple de Cybèle. Bien
+     qu'elle eût été, disait on, seule épargnée dans deux incendies du
+     temple, nous n'avons plus cette statue, mais nous avons au Capitole
+     un bas-relief où l'événement miraculeux est représenté. C'est un
+     autel dédié par une affranchie de la gens Claudia; il a été trouvé
+     au pied de l'Aventin, près du lieu qu'on désignait comme celui où
+     avait été opéré le miracle."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 142.
+
+In her temple, which was _round and surmounted_ by a cupola, Cybele was
+represented by a statue with its face to the east; the building was
+adorned with a painting of Corybantes, and plays were acted in front of
+it.[120]
+
+          "Qua madidi sunt tecta Lyæi
+    Et Cybeles picto stat Corybante domus."
+
+    _Martial, Ep._ i. 71, 9.
+
+This temple, after its second destruction by fire, was entirely rebuilt
+by Augustus in A.D. 2.
+
+     "Cybèle est certainement la grande déesse, la grande mère,
+     c'est-à-dire la personnification de la fécondité et de la vie
+     universelle: bizarre idole qui présente le spectacle hideux de
+     mamelles disposés par paires le long d'un corps comme enveloppé
+     dans une gaîne, et d'où sortent des taureaux et des abeilles,
+     images des forces créatrices et des puissances ordonnatrices de la
+     nature. On honorait cette déesse de l'Asie par des orgies
+     furieuses, par un mélange de débauche effrénée et de rites cruels;
+     ses prêtres efféminés dansaient au son des flûtes lydiennes et de
+     ses _crotales_, véritables castagnettes, semblables à celles que
+     fait résonner aujourd'hui la paysanne romaine en dansant la
+     fougueuse _saltarelle_. On voit au musée du Capitole l'effigie
+     bas-relief d'un _archigalle_, d'un chef de ces prêtres insensés, et
+     près de lui les attributs de la déesse asiatique, les flûtes, les
+     crotales, et la mystérieuse corbeille. Cet archigalle, avec son air
+     de femme, sa robe qui conviendrait à une femme, nous retrace
+     l'espèce de démence religieuse à laquelle s'associaient les délires
+     pervers d'Héliogabale."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 310.
+
+We have the authority of Martial[121] that in the immediate
+neighbourhood of the temple of Cybele, stood the _Temple of Apollo_,
+though Signor Rosa places it on the other side of the hill in the
+gardens of S. Buonaventura. Its remains have yet to be discovered.
+
+     "Nothing could exceed the magnificence of this temple, according to
+     the accounts of ancient authors. Propertius, who was present at its
+     dedication, has devoted a short elegy to the description of it, and
+     Ovid describes it as a splendid structure of white marble.
+
+    'Tum medium claro surgebat marmore templum,
+        Et patria Phoebo carius Ortygia.
+    Auro solis erat supra fastigia currus,
+        Et valvæ Libyci nobile dentis opus.
+    Altera dejectos Parnassi vertice Gallos,
+        Altera moerebat funera Tantalidos.
+    Deinde inter matrem Deus ipse, interque sororem
+        Pythius in longa carmina veste sonat.'
+
+    _Propertius,_ ii. _El._ 31.
+
+    'Inde timore pari gradibus sublimia celsis
+        Ducor ad intonsi candida templa Dei.'
+
+    _Ovid, Trist._ iii. _El._ 1.
+
+     "From the epithet _aurea_ porticus, it seems probable that the
+     cornice of the portico which surrounded it was gilt. The columns
+     were of African marble, or _giallo-antico_, and must have been
+     fifty-two in number, as between them were the statues of the fifty
+     Danaids, and that of their father, brandishing a naked sword.
+
+    'Quæris cur veniam tibi tardior? aurea Phoebi
+      Porticus a magno Cæsare aperta fuit.
+    Tota erat in speciem Poenis digesta columnis:
+      Inter quas Danai foemina turba senis.'
+
+    _Propert._ ii. _El._ 31.
+
+    'Signa peregrinis ubi sunt alterna columnis
+      Belides, et stricto barbarus ense pater.'
+
+    _Ovid, Trist._ iii. 1. 61.
+
+     "Here also was a statue of Apollo sounding the lyre, apparently a
+     likeness of Augustus; whose beauty when a youth, to judge from his
+     bust in the Vatican, might well entitle him to counterfeit the god.
+     Around the altar were the images of four oxen, the work of Myron,
+     so beautifully sculptured that they seemed alive. In the middle of
+     the portico rose the temple, apparently of white marble. Over the
+     pediment was the chariot of the sun. The gates were of ivory, one
+     of them sculptured with the story of the giants hurled down from
+     the heights of Parnassus, the other representing the destruction of
+     the Niobids. Inside the temple was the statue of Apollo in a tunica
+     talaris, or long garment, between his mother Latona and his sister
+     Diana, the work of Scopas, Cephisodorus, and Timotheus. Under the
+     base of Apollo's statue Augustus caused to be buried the Sibylline
+     books which he had selected and placed in gilt chests. Attached to
+     the temple was a library called _Bibliotheca Græca et Latina_,
+     apparently, however, only one structure, containing the literature
+     of both tongues. Only the choicest works were admitted to the
+     honour of a place in it, as we may infer from Horace:
+
+                          'Tangere vitet
+    Scripta, Palatinus quæcunque recepit Apollo.'
+
+    _Ep._ i. 3. 16.
+
+     "The library appears to have contained a bronze statue of Apollo,
+     fifty feet high; whence we must conclude that the roof of the hall
+     exceeded that height. In this library, or more probably, perhaps,
+     in an adjoining apartment, poets, orators, and philosophers recited
+     their productions. The listless demeanour of the audience on such
+     occasions seems, from the description of the younger Pliny, to have
+     been, in general, not over-encouraging. Attendance seems to have
+     been considered as a friendly duty."--_Dyer's City of Rome._
+
+The temple of Apollo was built by Augustus to commemorate the battle of
+Actium. He appropriated to it part of the land covered with houses which
+he had purchased upon the Palatine;--another part he gave to the
+Vestals; the third he used for his own palace.
+
+    "Phoebus habet partem, Vestæ pars altera cessit:
+    Quod superest illis, tertius ipse tenet.
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    Stet domus, æternos tres habet una deos."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ iv. 951.
+
+Thus Apollo and Vesta became as it were the household gods of Augustus:
+
+    "Vestaque Cæsareos inter sacrata penates,
+    Et cum Cæsarea tu, Phoebe domestice, Vesta."
+
+    _Ovid, Metam._ xv. 864.
+
+Other temples on the Palatine were that of _Juno_ Sospita:
+
+    "Principio mensis Phrygiæ contermina Matri
+      Sospita delubris dicitur aucta novis."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ ii. 55.
+
+of Minerva:
+
+    "Sexte, Palatinæ cultor facunde Minervæ
+      Ingenio frueris qui propiore Dei."
+
+     _Martial,_ v. _Ep._ 5.
+
+a temple of Moonlight mentioned by Varro (iv. 10) and a shrine of Vesta.
+
+    "Vestaque Cæsareos inter sacrata penates."
+
+    _Ovid, Met._ i.
+
+From the _Torretta del Palatino_ which is near the house of Caligula,
+there is a magnificent view over the seven hills of Rome;--the Palatine,
+Aventine, Capitoline, Coelian, Quirinal, Viminal, and Esquiline. From
+this point also it is very interesting to remember that these were not
+the heights considered as "the Seven Hills" in the ancient history of
+Rome, when the sacrifices of the _Septimontium_ were offered upon the
+Palatine, Velia, and Germale, the three divisions of the Palatine--of
+which one can no longer be traced; upon the Fagutal, Oppius, and
+Cispius, the secondary heights of the Esquiline; and upon the Suburra,
+which perhaps comprehended the Viminal.[122] Hence also we see the
+ground we have traversed on the Palatine spread before us like a map.
+
+If we descend the staircase in the Palace of Caligula, we may trace as
+far as the Porta Romana the piers of the _Bridge of Caligula_, which,
+half in vanity, half in madness, he threw across the valley, that he
+might, as he said, the more easily hold intercourse with his friend and
+comrade Jupiter upon the Capitol. One of the piers which he used for his
+bridge, beyond the limits of the palace, was formed by the temple of
+Augustus built by Tiberius.[123] This bridge, with all other works of
+Caligula, was of very short duration, being destroyed immediately after
+his death by Claudius.
+
+Returning by the Clivus Victoriæ, we shall find ourselves again on the
+eastern slope of the hill from which we started, the site once occupied
+by so many of the great patrician families. Here at one time lived Caius
+Gracchus, who to gratify the populace, gave up his house on the side of
+the Palatine, and made his home in the gloomy Suburra. Here also lived
+his coadjutor in the consulship, Fulvius Flaccus, who shared his fate,
+and whose house was razed to the ground by the people after his murder.
+At this corner of the hill also was the house of Q. Lutatius Catulus,
+poet and historian, who was consul B.C. 102, and together with Marius
+was conqueror of the Cimbri in a great battle near Vercelli. In memory
+of this he founded a temple of the "Fortuna hujusce diei," and decorated
+the portico of his house with Cimbrian trophies. Varro mentions that his
+house had also a domed roof.[124] Here also the consul Octavius,
+murdered on the Janiculum by the partisans of Marius, had a house, which
+was rebuilt with great magnificence by Emilius Scaurus, who adorned it
+with columns of marble thirty-eight feet high.[125] These two last-named
+houses were bought by the wealthy Clodius, who gave 14,800,000
+sesterces, or about 130,000_l._, for that of Scaurus, and throwing down
+the Porticus Catuli, included its site, and the house of E. Scaurus, in
+his own magnificent dwelling. Clodius was a member of the great house of
+the Claudii, and was the favoured lover of Pompeia, wife of Julius
+Cæsar, by whose connivance, disguised as a female musician, he attempted
+to be present at the orgies of the Bona Dea, which were celebrated in
+the house of the Pontifex Maximus close to the temple of Vesta, and from
+which men were so carefully excluded, that even a male mouse, says
+Juvenal, dared not show himself there. The position of his own dwelling,
+and that of the pontifex, close to the foot of the Clivus Victoriæ,
+afforded every facility for this adventure, but it was discovered by his
+losing himself in the passages of the Regia. A terrible scandal was the
+result--Cæsar divorced Pompeia, and the senate referred the matter to
+the pontifices, who declared that Clodius was guilty of sacrilege.
+Clodius attempted to prove an alibi, but Cicero's evidence showed that
+he was with him in Rome only three hours before he pretended to have
+been at Interamna. Bribery and intimidation secured his acquittal by a
+majority of thirty-one to twenty-five,[126] but from this time a deadly
+enmity ensued between him and Cicero.
+
+The house of Clodius naturally leads us to that of Cicero, which was
+also situated at this corner of the Palatine, whence he could see his
+clients in the Forum and go to and fro to his duties there. This house
+had been built for M. Livius Drusus, who, when his architect proposed a
+plan to prevent its being overlooked, answered, "Rather build it so that
+all my fellow-citizens may behold everything that I do." In his acts
+Drusus seemed to imitate the Gracchi; but he sought popularity for its
+own sake, and after being the object of a series of conspiracies was
+finally murdered in the presence of his mother Cornelia, in his own
+hall, where the image of his father was sprinkled with his blood. When
+dying he turned to those around him and asked, with characteristic
+arrogance, based perhaps upon conscious honesty of purpose, "when will
+the commonwealth have a citizen like me again?" After the death of
+Drusus the house was inhabited by L. Licinius Crassus the orator, who
+lived here in great elegance and luxury. His house was called from its
+beauty "the Venus of the Palatine," and was remarkable for its size, the
+taste of its furniture, and the beauty of its grounds. "It was adorned
+with pillars of Hymettian marble, with expensive vases, and triclinia
+inlaid with brass. His gardens were provided with fishponds, and some
+noble lotus-trees shaded his walks. Ahenobarbus, his colleague in the
+censorship, found fault with such corruption of manners,[127] estimated
+his house at a hundred million, or, according to Valerius Maximus,[128]
+six million sesterces, and complained of his crying for the loss of a
+lamprey as if it had been a daughter. It was a tame lamprey which used
+to come at the call of Crassus, and feed out of his hand. Crassus
+retorted by a public speech against his colleague, and by his great
+powers of ridicule, turned him into derision; jested upon his name,[129]
+and to the accusation of weeping for a lamprey, replied, that it was
+more than Ahenobarbus had done for the loss of any of his three
+wives."[130] Cicero purchased the house of Crassus a year or two after
+his consulate for a sum equal to about 30,000_l._, and removed thither
+from the Carinæ with his wife Terentia. His house was close to that of
+Clodius, but a little lower down the hill, which enabled him to threaten
+to increase the height, so as to shut out his neighbour's view of the
+city. Upon his accession to the tribuneship Clodius procured the
+disgrace of Cicero, and after his flight to Greece, obtained a decree of
+banishment against him. He then pillaged and destroyed his house upon
+the Palatine, as well as his villas at Tusculum and Formia, and obliged
+Terentia to take refuge with the Vestals, whose Superior was fortunately
+her sister. But in the following year, a change of consuls and revulsion
+of the popular favour led to the recall of Cicero, who found part of his
+house appropriated by Clodius, who had erected a shrine to Libertas
+(with a statue which was that of a Greek courtezan carried off from the
+tomb)[131] on the site of the remainder, which he had razed to the
+ground.[132]
+
+     "Clodius had also destroyed the portico of Catulus; in fact, he
+     appears to have been desirous of appropriating all this side of the
+     Palatine. He wanted to buy the house of the ædile Seius. Seius
+     having declared that so long as he lived, Clodius should not have
+     it, Clodius caused him to be poisoned, and then bought his house
+     under a feigned name! He was thus enabled to erect a portico three
+     hundred feet in length, in place of that of Catulus. The latter,
+     however, was afterwards restored at the public expense.
+
+     "Cicero obtained public grants for the restoration of his house and
+     of his Tusculan and Formian villas, but very far from enough to
+     cover the losses he had suffered. The aristocratic part of the
+     Senate appears to have envied and grudged the _novus homo_ to whose
+     abilities they looked for protection. He was advised not to rebuild
+     his house on the Palatine, but to sell the ground. It was not in
+     Cicero's temper to take such a course; but he was hampered ever
+     after with debts. Clodius, who had been defeated but not beaten,
+     still continued his persecutions. He organised a gang of street
+     boys to call out under Cicero's windows, 'Bread! Bread!' His bands
+     interrupted the dramatic performances on the Palatine, at the
+     Megalesian games, by rushing upon the stage. On another occasion,
+     Clodius, at the head of his myrmidons, besieged the Senate in the
+     temple of Concord. He attacked Cicero in the streets, to the danger
+     of his life; and when he had begun to rebuild his house, drove away
+     the masons, overthrew what part had been re-erected of Catulus'
+     portico, and cast burning torches into the house of Quintus Cicero,
+     which he had hired next to his brother's on the Palatine, and
+     consumed a great part of it."--_Dyer's City of Rome_, 152.
+
+The indemnity which Cicero received from the state in order to rebuild
+his house on the Palatine, amounted to about 16,000_l._ The house of
+Quintus Cicero was rebuilt close to his brother's at the same time by
+Cyrus, the fashionable architect of the day.[133]
+
+Among other noble householders on this part of the Palatine was Mark
+Antony,[134] whose house was afterwards given by Augustus to Agrippa and
+Messala, soon after which it was burnt down.
+
+A small _Museum_ in this part of the garden contains some of the
+smaller objects which have been found in the excavations, and specimens
+of the different marbles and alabasters. There is nothing of any great
+importance. The fragments of statues and some busts which have been
+found (including Flavia Domitilla, wife of Vespasian, and Julia,
+daughter of Titus), have been sent to Paris, but casts have been left
+here.
+
+We have now made the round of the French division of the Palatine.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It has been decided that some remains which exist in the garden of the
+Villa Mills (now a Convent of Visitandine Nuns) are those of the House
+of Hortensius, an orator, "who was second only to Cicero in eloquence,
+and who, in the early part at least of their lives, was his chief
+opponent."[135] Cicero himself describes the extraordinary gifts of his
+rival[136] as well as the integrity with which he fulfilled the duties
+of a quæstor.[137] In the latter portion of his public career Hortensius
+was frequently engaged on the same side with Cicero, and then always
+recognised his superiority by allowing him to speak last. Hortensius
+died B.C. 50, to the great grief of his ancient rival.[138] The splendid
+villas of Hortensius were celebrated. He was accustomed to water his
+trees with wine at regular intervals,[139] and had huge fishponds at
+Bauli, into which the salt-water fish came to be fed from his hand, and
+he became so fond of them, that he wept for the death of a favourite
+muræna.[140] But the house on the Palatine was exceedingly simple and
+had no decorations but plain columns of Alban stone.[141] This was the
+chosen residence of Augustus, until, upon its destruction by fire, the
+citizens insisted upon raising the more sumptuous residence in the
+hollow of the Palatine by public subscription. The subterranean chambers
+which have been discovered have some interesting remains of stucco
+ornament.
+
+The villa, which is now turned into a convent, possessed some frescoes
+painted by Giulio Romano from designs of Raphael, but these have been
+destroyed or removed in deference to the modesty of the present
+inhabitants. The neighbouring church and garden of S. Sebastiano occupy
+the site of the _Gardens of Adonis_. (See Chap. IV.)
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A large, and by far the most picturesque portion of the Palace of the
+Cæsars (the only part which was not imbedded in soil ten years ago), is
+now accessible either from the end of the lane of S. Buenaventura, or
+from a gate on the left of the Via dei Fienili just before reaching Sta.
+Anastasia. The excavations in the last-named quarter were begun by the
+Emperor of Russia, who purchased the site, but afterwards presented it
+to the city.
+
+Behind Sta. Maria Liberatrice, in some farm buildings, are remains which
+probably belong to the Regia of Julius Cæsar.
+
+Beyond this, against the escarpment of the Palatine, a part of the
+_Walls of Romulus_ has been discovered, built in large oblong blocks.
+Here also are fragments of bases of towers of republican times. Behind
+S. Teodoro are remains of an early concrete wall, behind which the tufa
+rock is visible. The wall is only built where the tufa is of a soft
+character.
+
+     "La système de construction est le même que dans les villes
+     d'Étrurie et dans la muraille bâtie à Rome par les rois étrusques.
+     Cependant l'appareil est moins régulier. Les murs d'une petite
+     ville du Latium fondée par un aventurier ne pouvaient être aussi
+     soignés que les murs des villes de l'Étrurie, pays tout autrement
+     civilisé. La petite cité de Romulus, bornée au Palatin, n'avait pas
+     l'importance de la Rome des Tarquins, qui couvrait les huit
+     collines.
+
+     "Du reste, la construction est étrusque et devait l'être. Romulus
+     n'avait dans sa ville, habitée par des pâtres et des bandits,
+     personne qui fût capable d'en bâtir l'enceinte. Les Étrusques,
+     grands bâtisseurs, étaient de l'autre côté du fleuve. Quelques-uns
+     même l'avaient probablement passé déjà et habitaient le mont
+     Coelius. Romulus dut s'adresser à eux, et faire faire cet ouvrage
+     par des architects et des maçons étrusques. Ce fut aussi selon le
+     rite de l'Étrurie, pays sacerdotal, que Romulus, suivant en cela
+     l'usage établi dans les cités latines, fit consacer l'enceinte de
+     la ville nouvelle. Il agit en cette circonstance comme agit un
+     paysan romain, quand il appelle un prêtre pour bénir l'emplacement
+     de la maison qu'il veut bâtir.
+
+     "Les détails de la cérémonie par laquelle fut inaugurée la première
+     enceinte de Rome nous ont été transmis par Plutarque,[142] et, avec
+     un grand détail par Tacite,[143] qui sans doute avait sous les yeux
+     les livres des pontifes. Nous connaissons avec exactitude le
+     contour que traça la charrue sacrée. Nous pouvons le suivre encore
+     aujourd'hui.
+
+     "Romulus attela an taureau blanc et une vache blanche à une charrue
+     dont le soc était d'airain.[144] L'usage de l'airain a précédé à
+     Rome, comme partout, l'usage du fer. Il partit du lieu consacré par
+     l'antique autel d'Hercule, au-dessous de l'angle occidental du
+     Palatin et de la première Rome des Pelasges, et, se dirigeant vers
+     le sud-est, traça son sillon le long de la base de la colline.
+
+     "Ceux qui suivaient Romulus, rejetaient les mottes de terre en
+     dedans du sillon, image du Vallum futur. Ce sillon était l'Agger de
+     Servius Tullius en petit. A l'extrémité de la vallée qui sépare le
+     Palatin de l'Aventin, où devait être le grand cirque, et où est
+     aujourd'hui la rue des _Cerchi_, il prit à gauche, et, contournant
+     la colline, continua, en creusant toujours son sillon, à tracer
+     sans le savoir la route que devaient suivre un jour les triomphes,
+     puis revint au point d'où il était parti. La charrue, l'instrument
+     du labour, le symbole de la vie agricole des enfants de Saturne,
+     avait dessiné le contour de la cité guerrière de Romulus. De même,
+     quand on avait détruit une ville, on faisait passer la charrue sur
+     le sol qu'elle avait occupé. Par là, ce sol devenait sacré, et il
+     n'était pas plus permis de l'habiter qu'il ne l'était de franchir
+     le sillon qu'on creusait autour des villes lors de leur fondation,
+     comme le fit Romulus et comme le firent toujours depuis les
+     fondateurs d'une colonie; car toute colonie était une
+     Rome."--_Ampère, Hist. Rome_, i. 283.
+
+Close under this, the northern side of the walls of Romulus, ran the
+_Via Nova_, down which Marcus Cædicius was returning to the city in the
+gloaming, when, at this spot, between the sacred grove and the temple of
+Vesta, he heard a supernatural voice, bidding him to warn the senate of
+the approach of the Gauls. After the Gauls had invaded Rome, and
+departed again, an altar and sanctuary recorded the miracle on this
+site.[145]
+
+At the corner near Sta. Anastasia, are remains of a private house of
+early times built against the cliff. Near this were the steps called the
+_Stairs of Cacus_, leading up to the hut of Faustulus. On the other side
+the _Gradus Pulchri Littoris_, the [Greek: kalê Aktê] of
+Plutarch, led to the river.[146]
+
+Here a remarkable altar of republican times has been discovered, and
+remains _in situ_. It is inscribed SEI DEO SEI DIVAE SAC.--C SEXTIVS C T
+CALVINUS TR--DE SENATI SENTENTIA RESTITVIT. Some suppose this to be the
+actual altar mentioned above as erected to the Genius Loci, in
+consequence of the mysterious warning of the Gallic invasion. The father
+of the tribune, C. S. Calvinus, mentioned in the inscription, was consul
+with C. Cassius Longinus, B.C. 124, and is described by Cicero as an
+elegant orator of a sickly constitution.[147]
+
+Beyond this a number of chambers have been discovered under the steep
+bank of the Palatine, and retain a quantity of _graffiti_ scratched upon
+their walls. The most interesting of these, found in the fourth chamber,
+has been removed to the museum of the Collegio Romano. It is generally
+believed to have been executed during the reign of Septimius Severus,
+and to have been done in an idle moment by one of the soldiers occupying
+these rooms, supposed to have been used as guard-chambers under that
+emperor. If so, it is perhaps the earliest existing pictorial allusion
+to the manner of our Saviour's death. It is a caricature evidently
+executed in ridicule of a Christian fellow-soldier. The figure on the
+cross has an ass's head, and by the worshipping figure is inscribed in
+Greek characters, _Alexamenos worships his God_.
+
+     "The lowest orders of the populace were as intelligently hostile to
+     it [the worship of the Crucified] as were the philosophers. Witness
+     that remarkable caricature of the adoration of our crucified Lord,
+     which was discovered some ten years ago beneath the ruins of the
+     Palatine palace. It is a rough sketch, traced, in all probability,
+     by the hand of some pagan slave in one of the earliest years of the
+     third century of our era. A human figure with an ass's head is
+     represented as fixed to a cross, while another figure in a tunic
+     stands on one side. This figure is addressing himself to the
+     crucified monster, and is making a gesture which was the customary
+     pagan expression of adoration. Underneath there runs a rude
+     inscription: _Alexamenos adores his God_. Here we are face to face
+     with a touching episode of the life of the Roman Church in the days
+     of Severus or of Caracalla. As under Nero, so, a century and a half
+     later, there were worshippers of Christ in the household of Cæsar.
+     But the paganism of the later date was more intelligently and
+     bitterly hostile to the Church than the paganism which had shed the
+     blood of the apostles. The Gnostic invective which attributed to
+     the Jews the worship of an ass, was applied by pagans
+     indiscriminately to Jews and Christians. Tacitus attributes the
+     custom to a legend respecting services rendered by wild asses to
+     the Israelites in the desert; 'and so, I suppose,' observes
+     Tertullian, 'it was thence presumed that we, as bordering upon the
+     Jewish religion, were taught to worship such a figure.' Such a
+     story, once current, was easily adapted to the purposes of a pagan
+     caricaturist. Whether from ignorance of the forms of Christian
+     worship, or in order to make his parody of it more generally
+     intelligible to its pagan admirers, the draughtsman has ascribed to
+     Alexamenos the gestures of a heathen devotee. But the real object
+     of his parody is too plain to be mistaken. Jesus Christ, we may be
+     sure, had other confessors and worshippers in the Imperial palace
+     as well as Alexamenos. The moral pressure of the advancing Church
+     was felt throughout all ranks of pagan society; ridicule was
+     invoked to do the work of argument; and the moral persecution which
+     crowned all true Christian devotion was often only the prelude to a
+     sterner test of that loyalty to a crucified Lord, which was as
+     insensible to the misrepresentations, as Christian faith was
+     superior to the logic, of heathendom."[148]--_Liddon, Bampton
+     Lectures of 1866_, lect. vii. p. 593.
+
+These chambers acquire a great additional interest from the belief which
+many entertain that they are those once occupied by the Prætorian Guard,
+in which St. Paul was confined.
+
+     "The close of the Epistle to the Ephesians contains a remarkable
+     example of the forcible imagery of St. Paul. Considered simply in
+     itself, the description of the Christian's armour is one of the
+     most striking passages in the sacred volume. But if we view it in
+     connection with the circumstances with which the Apostle was
+     surrounded, we find a new and living emphasis in his enumeration of
+     all the parts of the heavenly panoply,--the belt of sincerity and
+     truth, with which the loins are girded for the spiritual war,--the
+     breast-plate of that righteousness, the inseparable links whereof
+     are faith and love,--the strong sandals, with which the feet of
+     Christ's soldiers are made ready, not for such errands of death and
+     despair as those on which the Prætorian soldiers were daily sent,
+     but for the universal message of the gospel of peace,--the large
+     shield of confident trust, wherewith the whole man is protected,
+     and whereon the fiery arrows of the Wicked One fall harmless and
+     dead,--the close-fitting helmet, with which the hope of salvation
+     invests the head of the believer,--and finally the sword of the
+     Spirit, the Word of God, which, when wielded by the Great Captain
+     of our Salvation, turned the tempter in the wilderness to flight,
+     while in the hands of His chosen Apostle (with whose memory the
+     sword seems inseparably associated), it became the means of
+     establishing Christianity on the earth.
+
+     "All this imagery becomes doubly forcible if we remember that when
+     St. Paul wrote the words he was chained to a soldier, and in the
+     close neighbourhood of military sights and sounds. The appearance
+     of the Prætorian Guards was daily familiar to him; as his 'chains,'
+     on the other hand (so he tells us in the succeeding Epistle),
+     became well known throughout the whole _Prætorium_! (Phil. i. 13).
+     A difference of opinion has existed as to the precise meaning of
+     the word in this passage. Some have identified it, as in the
+     authorised version, with the house of Cæsar on the Palatine: more
+     commonly it has been supposed to mean that permanent camp of the
+     Prætorian Guards, which Tiberius established on the north of the
+     city, outside the walls. As regards the former opinion, it is true
+     that the word came to be used, almost as we use the word 'palace,'
+     for royal residences generally or for any residences of princely
+     splendour. Yet we never find the word employed for the imperial
+     house at Rome: and we believe the truer view to be that which has
+     been recently advocated, namely, that it denotes here, not the
+     palace itself, but the quarters of that part of the imperial
+     guards, which was in immediate attendance upon the emperor. The
+     emperor was _prætor_ or commander-in-chief of the troops, and it
+     was natural that his immediate guard should be in _prætorium_ near
+     him. It might, indeed, be argued that this military establishment
+     on the Palatine would cease to be necessary, when the Prætorian
+     camp was established: but the purpose of that establishment was to
+     concentrate near the city those cohorts, which had previously been
+     dispersed in other parts of Italy: a local body-guard near the
+     palace would not cease to be necessary: and Josephus, in his
+     account of the imprisonment of Agrippa, speaks of a 'camp' in
+     connection with the 'royal house.' Such we conceive to have been
+     the barrack immediately alluded to by St. Paul: though the
+     connection of these smaller quarters with the general camp was such
+     that he would naturally become known to '_all the rest_' of the
+     guards, as well as those who might for the time be connected with
+     the imperial household.
+
+     "St. Paul tells us (in the Epistle to the Philippians) that
+     throughout the Prætorian quarter he was well known as a prisoner
+     for the cause of Christ, and he sends special salutations to the
+     Philippian Church from the Christians of the imperial household.
+     These notices bring before us very vividly the moral contrasts by
+     which the Apostle was surrounded. The soldier to whom he was
+     chained to-day might have been in Nero's body-guard yesterday; his
+     comrade who next relieved guard might have been one of the
+     executioners of Octavia, and might have carried her head to Poppæa
+     a few weeks before.
+
+     "History has few stronger contrasts than when it shows us Paul
+     preaching Christ under the walls of Nero's palace. Thenceforward
+     there were but two religions in the Roman world; the worship of the
+     emperor, and the worship of the Saviour. The old superstitions had
+     long been worn out; they had lost all hold on educated minds....
+     Over against the altars of Nero and Poppæa, the voice of a prisoner
+     was daily heard, and daily woke in grovelling souls the
+     consciousness of their divine destiny. Men listened, and knew that
+     self-sacrifice was better than ease, humiliation more exalted than
+     pride, to suffer nobler than to reign. They felt that the only
+     religion which satisfied the needs of man was the religion of
+     sorrow, the religion of self-devotion, the religion of the
+     cross."--_Conybeare and Howson._
+
+Hence, we may ascend through some gardens beneath the Villa Mills, to
+the terrace which surmounts the grand ruins at the end of the Palace of
+the Cæsars, supposed to be remains of the _Palace of Nero_, but as no
+inscriptions have been discovered, no part of it can be identified.[149]
+These are by far the most picturesque portions of the ruins, and few
+compositions can be finer than those formed by the huge masses of
+stately brick arches, laden with a wealth of laurustinus, cytizus, and
+other flowering shrubs, standing out against the soft hues and delicate
+blue and pink shadows of the distant Campagna. Beneath the terrace is a
+fine range of lofty chambers, with a broken statue at the end, through
+which there is a striking view. One of these ruined halls has been
+converted into a kind of museum of architectural fragments found in this
+part of the palace, many of them of great beauty. This was the portion
+of the palace which longest remained entire, and which was inhabited by
+Heraclius in the seventh century. Some consider that these ruins were
+incorporated into the
+
+_Septizonium of Severus_, so called from its seven stories of building,
+erected A.D. 198, and finally destroyed by Sixtus V., who carried off
+its materials for the building of St Peter's. It was erected by Severus
+at the southern corner of the palace, in order that it might at once
+strike the eyes of his African compatriots,[150] on their arrival in
+Rome. He built two other edifices which he called Septizonium, one on
+the Esquiline near the baths of Titus, and the other on the Via Appia,
+which he intended as the burial-place of his family, and where his son
+Geta was actually interred.
+
+The remaining ruins on this division of the hill, supposed to be those
+of a theatre, a library, &c., have not yet been historically identified.
+They probably belong to the _Palace of Domitian_ (Imp. A.D. 81--96), who
+added largely to the buildings on the Palatine. The magnificence of his
+palace is extolled in the inflated verses of Statius, who describes the
+imperial dwelling as exciting the jealousy of the abode of Jupiter--as
+losing itself amongst the stars by its height, and rising above the
+clouds into the full splendour of the sunshine! Such was the
+extravagance displayed by Domitian in these buildings, that Plutarch
+compares him to Midas, who wished everything to be made of gold. This
+was the scene of many of the tyrannical vagaries of Domitian.
+
+     "'Having once made a great feast for the citizens, he proposed,'
+     says Dion, 'to follow it up with an entertainment to a select
+     number of the highest nobility. He fitted up an apartment all in
+     black. The ceiling was black, the walls were black, the pavement
+     was black, and upon it were ranged rows of bare stone seats, black
+     also. The guests were introduced at night without their attendants,
+     and each might see at the head of his couch a column placed, like a
+     tomb-stone, on which his own name was graven, with the cresset lamp
+     above it, such as is suspended in the tombs. Presently there
+     entered a troop of naked boys, blackened, who danced around with
+     horrid movements, and then stood still before them, offering them
+     the fragments of food which are commonly presented to the dead. The
+     guests were paralysed with terror, expecting at every moment to be
+     put to death; and the more, as the others maintained a deep
+     silence, as though they were dead themselves, and Domitian spake of
+     things pertaining to the state of the departed only.' But this
+     funeral feast was not destined to end tragically. Cæsar happened to
+     be in a sportive mood, and when he had sufficiently enjoyed his
+     jest, and had sent his visitors home expecting worse to follow, he
+     bade each to be presented with the silver cup and platter on which
+     his dismal supper had been served, and with the slave, now neatly
+     washed and apparelled, who had waited upon him. Such, said the
+     populace, was the way in which it pleased the emperor to solemnise
+     the funereal banquet of the victims of his defeats in Dacia, and of
+     his persecutions in the city."--_Merivale_, ch. lxii.
+
+It was in this palace that the murder of Domitian took place:
+
+     "Of the three great deities, the august assessors in the Capitol,
+     Minerva was regarded by Domitian as his special patroness. Her
+     image stood by his bedside: his customary oath was by her divinity.
+     But now a dream apprised him that the guardian of his person was
+     disarmed by the guardian of the empire, and that Jupiter had
+     forbidden his daughter to protect her favourite any longer. Scared
+     by these horrors he lost all self-control, and petulantly cried,
+     and the cry was itself a portent: 'Now strike Jove whom he will!'
+     From supernatural terrors he reverted again and again to earthly
+     fears and suspicions. Henceforward the tyrant allowed none to be
+     admitted to his presence without being previously searched; and he
+     caused the ends of the corridor in which he took exercise to be
+     lined with polished marble, to reflect the image of any one behind
+     him; at the same time he inquired anxiously into the horoscope of
+     every chief whom he might fear as a possible rival or successor.
+
+     "The victim of superstition had long since, it was said,
+     ascertained too surely the year, the day, the hour which should
+     prove fatal to him. He had learnt too that he was to die by the
+     sword.... The omens were now closing about the victim, and his
+     terrors became more importunate and overwhelming. 'Something,' he
+     exclaimed, 'is about to happen, which men shall talk of all the
+     world over.' Drawing a drop of blood from a pimple on his forehead,
+     'May this be all,' he added. His attendants, to reassure him,
+     declared that the hour had passed. Embracing the flattering tale
+     with alacrity, and rushing at once to the extreme of confidence, he
+     announced that the danger was over, and that he would bathe and
+     dress for the evening repast. But the danger was just then ripening
+     within the walls of the palace. The mysteries there enacted few,
+     indeed, could penetrate, and the account of Domitian's fall has
+     been coloured by invention and fancy. The story that a child, whom
+     he suffered to attend in his private chamber, found by chance the
+     tablets which he had placed under his pillow, and that the empress,
+     on inspecting them, and finding herself, with his most familiar
+     servants, designated for execution, contrived a plot for his
+     assassination, is one so often repeated as to cause great
+     suspicion. But neither can we accept the version of Philostratus,
+     who would have us believe that the murder of Domitian was the deed
+     of a single traitor, a freedman of Clemens, named Stephanus, who,
+     indignant at his patron's death, and urged to fury by the sentence
+     on his patron's wife, Domitilla, rushed alone into the tyrant's
+     chamber, diverted his attention with a frivolous pretext, and smote
+     him with the sword he bore concealed in his sleeve. It is more
+     likely that the design, however it originated, was common to
+     several of the household, and that means were taken among them to
+     disarm the victim, and baffle his cries for assistance. Stephanus,
+     who is said to have excelled in personal strength, may have been
+     employed to deal the blow; for not more, perhaps, than one
+     attendant would be admitted at once into the presence. Struck in
+     the groin, but not mortally, Domitian snatched at his own weapon,
+     but found the sword removed from its scabbard. He then clutched the
+     assassin's dagger, cutting his own fingers to the bone; then
+     desperately thrust the bloody talons into the eyes of his
+     assailant, and beat his head with a golden goblet, shrieking all
+     the time for help. Thereupon in rushed Parthenius, Maximus, and
+     others, and despatched him as he lay writhing on the
+     pavement."--_Merivale_, ch. lxii.
+
+Trajan stripped the palace of his predecessors of all its ornaments to
+adorn the temple of Jupiter Capitolinus,[151] but it was restored by
+Commodus, after a fire which occurred in his reign,[152] and enriched by
+Heliogabalus,[153] and almost every succeeding emperor, till the time of
+Theodoric.[154]
+
+    "'Brickwork I found thee, and marble I left thee!' their Emperor vaunted;
+    'Marble I thought thee, and brickwork I find thee!' the Tourist may
+     answer."
+
+    _A. H. Clough._
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+THE COELIAN.
+
+     S. Gregorio--S. Giovanni e Paolo--Arch of Dolabella--S. Tommaso in
+     Formis--Villa Mattei--Sta. Maria della Navicella--S. Stefano
+     Rotondo--I Santi Quattro Incoronati--S. Clemente.
+
+
+The Coelian Hill extends from St. John Lateran to the Vigna of the
+Porta Capena, and from the Fountain of Egeria to the Convent of S.
+Gregorio. It is now entirely uninhabited, except by monks of the
+Camaldolese, Passionist, and Redemptorist Orders, and by the Augustinian
+Nuns of the Incoronati.
+
+In the earliest times the name of this hill was Mons Querquetulanus,
+"The Hill of Oaks," and it was clothed with forest, part of which long
+remained as the sacred wood of the Camenæ. It first received its name of
+Coelius from Coelius Vibenna, an Etruscan Lucumo of Ardea, who is
+said to have come to the assistance of Romulus in his war against the
+Sabine king Tatius, and to have afterwards established himself here. In
+the reign of Tullus Hostilius the Coelian assumed some importance, as
+that king fixed his residence here, and transported hither the Latin
+population of Alba.
+
+As the Coelian had a less prominent share in the history of Rome than
+any of the other hills, it preserves scarcely any historical monuments
+of pagan times. All those which existed under the republic were
+destroyed by a great fire which ravaged this hill in the reign of
+Tiberius,[155] except the Temple of the Nymphs, which once stood in the
+grove of the Camenæ, and which had been already burnt by Clodius, in
+order to destroy the records of his falsehoods and debts which it
+contained.[156] Some small remains in the garden of the Passionist
+convent are attributed to the temple which Agrippina raised to her
+husband the Emperor Claudius, and in S. Stefano Rotondo some antiquaries
+recognize the Macellum of Nero. There are no remains of the palace of
+the Emperor Tetricus, who lived here, "between the two sacred
+groves,"[157] in a magnificent captivity under Aurelian, whom he
+received here at a banquet, at which he exhibited an allegorical picture
+representing his reception of the empire of Gaul, and his subsequent
+resignation of it for the simple insignia of a Roman senator.[158]
+
+To the Christian visitor, however, the Coelian will always prove of
+the deepest interest--and the slight thread of connection which runs
+between all its principal objects, as well as their nearness to one
+another, brings them pleasantly within the limits of a single day's
+excursion. Many of those who are not mere passing visitors at Rome, will
+probably find that their chief pleasure lies not amid the well-known
+sights of the great basilicas and palaces, but in quiet walks through
+the silent lanes and amid the decaying buildings of these more distant
+hills.
+
+     "The recollection of Rome will come back, after many years, in
+     images of long delicious strolls, in musing loneliness, through the
+     deserted ways of the ancient city; of climbing among its hills,
+     over ruins, to reach some vantage-ground for mapping out the
+     subjacent territory, and looking beyond on the glorious chains of
+     greater and lesser mountains, clad in their imperial hues of gold
+     and purple; and then, perhaps, of solemn entrance into the cool
+     solitude of an open basilica, where your thought now rests, as your
+     body then did, after the silent evening prayer, and brings forward
+     from many well-remembered nooks, every local inscription, every
+     lovely monument of art, the characteristic feature of each, or the
+     great names with which it is associated. The Liberian speaks to you
+     of Bethlehem and its treasured mysteries; the Sessorian of Calvary
+     and its touching relics. Baronius gives you his injunctions on
+     Christian architecture inscribed, as a legacy, in his title of
+     Fasciola; St. Dominic lives in the fresh paintings of a faithful
+     disciple, on the walls of the opposite church of St. Xystus; there
+     stands the chair and there hangs the hat of St. Charles, as if he
+     had just left his own church, from which he calls himself in his
+     signature to letters 'the Cardinal of St. Praxedes;' near it, in a
+     sister church, is fresh the memory of St. Justin Martyr, addressing
+     his apologies for Christianity to heathen emperor and senate, and
+     of Pudens and his British spouse; and, far beyond the city gates,
+     the cheerful Philip[159] is seen kneeling at S. Sebastiano, waiting
+     for the door to the Platonia to be opened for him, that he may
+     watch the night through in the martyr's dormitory."--_Wiseman's
+     Life of Leo XII._
+
+     "For myself, I must say that I know nothing to compare with a
+     pilgrimage among the antique churches scattered over the Esquiline,
+     the Coelian, and the Aventine Hills. They stand apart, each in
+     its solitude, amid gardens, and vineyards, and heaps of nameless
+     ruins;--here a group of cypresses, there a lofty pine or solitary
+     palm; the tutelary saint, perhaps some Sant' Achilleo, or Santa
+     Bibiana, whom we never heard of before,--an altar rich in precious
+     marbles,--columns of porphyry,--the old frescoes dropping from the
+     walls,--the everlasting colossal mosaics looking down so solemn, so
+     dim, so spectral;--these grow upon us, until at each succeeding
+     visit they themselves, and the associations by which they are
+     surrounded, become a part of our daily life, and may be said to
+     hallow that daily life when considered in a right spirit. True,
+     what is most sacred, what is most poetical, is often desecrated to
+     the fancy by the intrusion of those prosaic realities which easily
+     strike prosaic minds; by disgust at the foolish fabrications which
+     those who recite them do not believe, by lying inscriptions, by
+     tawdry pictures, by tasteless and even profane restorations;--by
+     much that saddens, much that offends, much that disappoints;--but
+     then so much remains! So much to awaken, to elevate, to touch the
+     heart; so much that will not pass away from the memory, so much
+     that makes a part of our after-life."--_Mrs. Jameson._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+We may pass under the Arch of Constantine, or through the pleasant sunny
+walks known as the _Parco di San Gregorio_,--planted by the French
+during their first occupation of Rome, but which may almost be regarded
+as a remnant of the sacred grove of the Camenæ which once occupied this
+site.
+
+The further gate of the Parco opens on a small triangular piazza, whence
+a broad flight of steps lead up to the _Church of S. Gregorio_, to the
+English pilgrim one of the most interesting spots in Rome, for it was at
+the head of these steps that St. Augustine took his last farewell of
+Gregory the Great, and, kneeling on this green-sward below, the first
+missionaries of England received the parting blessing of the great
+pontiff, as he stood on the height in the gateway. As we enter the
+portico (built 1633, by Card. Scipio Borghese,) we see on either side
+two world-famous inscriptions.
+
+On the right:
+
+            Adsta hospes
+              et lege.
+    Hic olim fuit M. Gregori domus
+    Ipse in monasterium convertit,
+    Ubi monasticen professus est
+      Et diu abbas præfuit.
+    Monachi primum Benedictini
+      Mox Græci tenuere
+        Dein Benedictini iterum
+              Post varios casos
+                Quum jamdiu
+            Esset commendatum
+            Et poene desertum.
+                Anno MDLXXIII
+            Camaldulenses inducti
+              Qui et industria sua
+                Et ope plurium
+              R. E. Cardinalium
+      Quorum hic monumenta exstant,
+    Favente etiam Clemente XI. P. M.
+      Templum et adjacentes ædes
+      In hanc quam cernis formam
+              Restituerunt.
+
+On the left:
+
+                  Ex hoc monasterio
+                    Prodierunt.
+    S. Gregorius, M. Fundator et Parens
+    S. Eleutherius, A.B. Hilarion, A.B.
+    S. Augustinus. Anglor. Apostol.
+    S. Laurentius. Cantuar. Archiep.
+    S. Mellitus. Londinen. Ep. mox.
+                  Archiep. Cantuar.
+    S. Justus. Ep. Roffensis.
+    S. Paulinus. Ep. Eborac.
+    S. Maximianus. Syracusan. Ep.
+    SS. Antonius, Merulus, et Joannes, Monachi.
+    St. Petrus. A.B. Cantuar.
+      Marinianus. Archiep. Raven.
+      Probus. Xenodochi. Jerosolymit.
+      Curator. A. S. Gregori. Elect.
+      Sabinus Callipodit. Ep.
+      Gregorius. Diac. Card. S. Eustach.
+      Hic. Etiam. Diu. Vixit. M. Gregori
+      Mater. S. Silvia. Hoc. Maxime
+      Colenda. Quod. Tantum. Pietatis
+      Sapientiæ. Et. Doctrinæ. Lumen
+                Pepererit.
+
+     "Cette ville incomparable renferme peu de sites plus attrayants et
+     plus dignes d'éternelle mémoire. Le sanctuaire occupe l'angle
+     occidental du mont Coelius.... Il est à égale distance du grand
+     Cirque, des Thermes de Caracalla et du Colisée, tout proche de
+     l'église des saints martyrs Jean et Paul. Le berceau du
+     christianisme de l'Angleterre touche ainsi au sol trempé par le
+     sang de tant de milliers de martyrs. En face s'élève le mont
+     Palatin, berceau de Rome païenne, encore couvert des vastes débris
+     du palais des Césars.... Où est donc l'Anglais digne de ce nom qui,
+     en portant son regard du Palatin au Colisée, pourrait contempler
+     sans émotion ce coin de terre d'où lui sont venus la foi, le nom
+     chrétien et la Bible dont il est si fier. Voilà où les enfants
+     esclaves de ses aïeux étaient recueillis et sauvés! Sur ces pierres
+     s'agenouillaient ceux qui ont fait sa patrie chrétienne! Sous ces
+     voûtes a été conçu par une âme sainte, confié à Dieu, béni par
+     Dieu, accepté et accompli par d'humbles et généreux chrétiens, le
+     grand dessein! Par ces degrés sont descendus les quarante moines
+     qui ont porté à l'Angleterre la parole de Dieu, la lumière de
+     l'Évangile, la succession apostolique et la règle de
+     Saint-Benoît!"--_Montalembert, Moines d'Occident._
+
+Hard by was the house of Sta. Silvia, mother of St. Gregory, of which
+the ruins still remain, opposite to the church of S. Giovanni e Paolo,
+and in the little garden which still exists, we may believe that he
+played as a child under his mother's care. Close to his mother's home he
+founded the monastery of St. Andrew, where he dwelt for many years as a
+monk, employed in writing homilies, and in the enjoyment of visionary
+conversation with the Virgin, whom he believed to answer him in person
+from her picture before which he knelt. "To this monastery he presented
+his own portrait, with those of his father and mother, which were
+probably in existence 300 years after his death; and this portrait of
+himself probably furnished that peculiar type of physiognomy which we
+trace in all the best representations of him."[160] During the life of
+penance and poverty which was led here by St. Gregory, he sold all his
+goods for the benefit of the poor, retaining nothing but a silver bason
+given him by his mother. One day a poor shipwrecked sailor came several
+times to beg in the cell where he was writing, and as he had no money,
+he gave him instead this one remaining treasure. A long time after, St.
+Gregory saw the same shipwrecked sailor reappear in the form of his
+guardian angel, who told him that God had henceforth destined him to
+rule his church, and become the successor of St. Peter, whose charity he
+had imitated.[161]
+
+     "Un moine (A.D. 590) va monter pour la première fois sur la chaire
+     apostolique. Ce moine, le plus illustre de tous ceux qui ont compté
+     parmi les souverains pontifes, y rayonnera d'un éclat qu'aucun de
+     ses prédécesseurs n'a égalé et qui rejaillera comme une sanction
+     suprême, sur l'institut dont il est issu. Grégoire, le seul parmi
+     les hommes avec le Pape Léon Ier qui ait reçu à la fois, du
+     consentement universel, le double surnom de Saint et de Grand, sera
+     l'eternel honneur de l'Ordre bénédictin comme de la papauté. Par
+     son génie, mais surtout par le charme et l'ascendant de sa vertu,
+     il organisera le domaine temporel des papes, il développera et
+     régularisera leur souveraineté spirituelle, il fondera leur
+     paternelle suprématie sur les royautés naissantes et les nations
+     nouvelles qui vont devenir les grands peuples de l'avenir, et
+     s'appeler la France, l'Espagne, l'Angleterre. A vrai dire, c'est
+     lui qui inaugure le moyen âge, la société moderne et la
+     civilisation chrétienne."--_Montalembert._
+
+The church of St. Gregory is approached by a cloistered court filled
+with monuments. On the left is that of Sir Edward Carne, one of the
+commissioners to obtain the opinion of foreign universities respecting
+the divorce of Henry VIII. from Catherine of Arragon, ambassador to
+Charles V., and afterwards to the court of Rome. He was recalled when
+the embassy was suppressed by Elizabeth, but was kept at Rome by Paul
+IV., who had conceived a great affection for him, and he died here in
+1561. Another monument, of an exile for the catholic faith, is that of
+Robert Pecham, who died 1567, inscribed:
+
+     "Roberto Pecham Anglo, equite aurato, Philippi et Mariæ Angliæ et
+     Hispan regibus olim a consiliis genere religione virtute præclaro
+     qui cum patriam suam a fede catholica deficientem adspicere sine
+     summo dolore non posset, relictis omnibus quæ in hac vita carissima
+     esse solent, in voluntarium profectus exilium, post sex annis
+     pauperibus Christi heredibus testamento institutis, sanctissime e
+     vita migravit."
+
+The _Church_, rebuilt in 1734, under Francesco Ferrari, has sixteen
+ancient granite columns and a fine Opus-Alexandrinum pavement. Among its
+monuments we may observe that of Cardinal Zurla, a learned writer on
+geographical subjects, who was abbot of the adjoining convent. It was a
+curious characteristic of the laxity of morals in the time of Julius II.
+(1503-13), that her friends did not hesitate to bury the famous Aspasia
+of that age in this church, and to inscribe upon her tomb: "Imperia,
+cortisana Romana, quæ digna tanto nomine, raræ inter homines formæ
+specimen dedit. Vixit annos xxvi. dies xii. obiit 1511, die 15
+Augusti,"--but this monument has now been removed.
+
+At the end of the right aisle is a picture by _Badalocchi_,
+commemorating a miracle on this spot, when, at the moment of elevation,
+the Host is said to have bled in the hands of St. Gregory, to convince
+an unbeliever of the truth of transubstantiation. It will be observed
+that in this and in most other representations of St. Gregory, a dove is
+perched upon his shoulder, and whispering into his ear. This is
+commemorative of the impression that every word and act of the saint was
+directly inspired by the Holy Ghost; a belief first engendered by the
+happy promptitude of Peter, his arch-deacon, who invented the story to
+save the beloved library of his master which was about to be destroyed
+after his death by the people, in a pitiful spirit of revenge, because
+they fancied that a famine which was decimating them, had been brought
+about by the extravagance of Gregory.[162] An altar beneath this picture
+is decorated with marble reliefs, representing the same miracle, and
+also the story of the soul of the Emperor Trajan being freed from
+purgatory by the intercession of Gregory. (Chap. IV.)
+
+A low door near this leads into the monastic cell of St. Gregory,
+containing his marble chair, and the spot where his bed lay, inscribed:
+
+    "Nocte dieque vigil longo hic defessu labore
+      Gregorius modica membra quiete levat."
+
+Here also an immense collection of minute relics of saints are exposed
+to the veneration of the credulous.
+
+On the opposite side of the church is the _Salviati Chapel_, the
+burial-place of that noble family, modernized in 1690 by Carlo Maderno.
+Over the altar is a copy of Annibale Caracci's picture of St. Gregory,
+which once existed here, but is now in England. On the right is the
+picture of the Madonna, "which spoke to St. Gregory," and which is said
+to have become suddenly impressed upon the wall after a vision in which
+she appeared to him;--on the left is a beautiful marble ciborium.
+
+Hence a sacristan will admit the visitor into the _Garden of Sta.
+Silvia_, whence there is a grand view over the opposite Palatine.
+
+     "To stand here on the summit of the flight of steps which leads to
+     the portal, and look across to the ruined Palace of the Cæsars,
+     makes the mind giddy with the rush of thoughts. _There_, before us,
+     the Palatine Hill--pagan Rome in the dust; _here_, the little cell,
+     a few feet square, where slept in sackcloth the man who gave the
+     last blow to the power of the Cæsars, and first set his foot as
+     sovereign on the cradle and capital of their greatness."--_Mrs.
+     Jameson._
+
+Here are three Chapels, restored by the historian Cardinal Baronius, in
+the sixteenth century. The first, of _Sta. Silvia_, contains a fresco of
+the Almighty with a choir of angels, by _Guido_, and beneath it a
+beautiful statue of the venerable saint (especially invoked against
+convulsions), by _Niccolo Cordieri_--one of the best statues of saints
+in Rome. The second chapel, of _St. Andrew_, contains the two famous
+rival frescoes of _Guido_ and _Domenichino_. Guido has represented St.
+Andrew kneeling in reverent thankfulness at first sight of the cross on
+which he was to suffer; Domenichino--a more painful subject--the
+flagellation of the saint. Of these paintings Annibale Caracci observed
+that "Guido's was the painting of the Master; but Domenichino's the
+painting of the scholar who knew more than the master." The beautiful
+group of figures in the corner, where a terrified child is hiding its
+face in its mother's dress, is introduced in several other pictures of
+Domenichino.
+
+     "It is a well-known anecdote that a poor old woman stood for a long
+     time before the story of Domenichino, pointing it out bit by bit
+     and explaining it to a child who was with her,--and that she then
+     turned to the story told by Guido, admired the landscape, and went
+     away. It is added that when Annibale Caracci heard of this, it
+     seemed to him in itself a sufficient reason for giving the
+     preference to the former work. It is also said that when
+     Domenichino was painting one of the executioners, he worked himself
+     up into a fury with threatening words and gestures, and that
+     Annibale, surprising him in this condition, embraced him, saying:
+     'Domenico, to-day you have taught me a lesson, which is that a
+     painter, like an orator, must first feel himself that which he
+     would represent to others.'"--_Lanzi_, v. 82.
+
+     "In historical pictures Domenichino is often cold and studied,
+     especially in the principal subject, while on the other hand, the
+     subordinate persons have much grace, and a noble character of
+     beauty. Thus, in the scourging of St. Andrew, a group of women
+     thrust back by the executioners is of the highest beauty. Guido's
+     fresco is of high merit--St. Andrew, on his way to execution, sees
+     the cross before him in the distance, and falls upon his knees in
+     adoration,--the executioners and spectators regard him with
+     astonishment."--_Kugler._
+
+The third chapel, of _Sta. Barbara_, contains a grand statue of St.
+Gregory by _Niccolo Cordieri_[163] (where the whispering dove is again
+represented), and the table at which he daily fed twelve poor pilgrims
+after washing their feet. The Roman breviary tells how on one occasion
+an angel appeared at the feast as the thirteenth guest. This story,--the
+sending forth of St. Augustine,--and other events of St. Gregory's life,
+are represented in rude frescoes upon the walls by _Viviani_.
+
+The adjoining _Convent_ (modern) is of vast size, and is now occupied by
+Camaldolese monks, though in the time of St. Gregory it belonged to the
+Benedictines. In its situation it is beautiful and quiet, and must have
+been so even in the time of St. Gregory, who often regretted the
+seclusion which he was compelled to quit.
+
+     "Un jour, plus accablé que jamais par le poids des affaires
+     séculières, il s'était retiré dans un lieu secret pour s'y livrer
+     dans un long silence à sa tristesse, et y fut rejoint par le
+     diàcre Pierre, son élève, son ami d'enfance et le compagnon de ses
+     chères études. 'Vous est-il donc arrivé quelque chagrin nouveau,'
+     lui dit le jeune homme, 'pour que vous soyez ainsi plus triste qu'à
+     l'ordinaire.' 'Mon chagrin,' lui répondit le pontife, 'est celui de
+     tous mes jours, toujours vieux par l'usage, et toujours nouveau par
+     sa croissance quotidienne. Ma pauvre âme se rappelle ce qu'elle
+     était autrefois, dans notre monastère, quand elle planait sur tout
+     ce qui passe, sur tout ce qui change; quand elle ne songeait qu'au
+     ciel; quand elle franchissait par la contemplation le cloître de ce
+     corps qui l'enserre; quand elle aimait d'avance la mort comme
+     l'entrée de la vie. Et maintenant il lui faut, à cause de ma charge
+     pastorale, supporter les mille affaires des hommes du siècle et se
+     souiller dans cette poussière. Et quand, après s'être ainsi
+     répandue au dehors, elle veut retrouver sa retraite intérieure,
+     elle n'y revient qu'amoindrie. Je médite sur tout ce que je souffre
+     et sur tout ce que j'ai perdu. Me voici, battu par l'océan et tout
+     brisé par la tempête; quand je pense à ma vie d'autrefois, il me
+     semble regarder en arrière vers le rivage. Et ce qu'il y a de plus
+     triste, c'est qu'ainsi ballotté par l'orage, je puis à peine
+     entrevoir le port que j'ai quitté.'"--_Montalembert, Moines
+     d'Occident._
+
+Pope Gregory XVI. was for some years abbot of this convent, to which he
+was afterwards a generous benefactor;--regretting always, like his great
+predecessor, the peace of his monastic life. His last words to his
+cardinals, who were imploring him, for political purposes, to conceal
+his danger, were singularly expressive of this--"Per Dio
+lasciatemi!--voglio morire da frate, non da sovrano." The last great
+ceremony enacted at S. Gregorio was when Cardinal Wiseman consecrated
+the mitred abbot of English Cistercians,--Dr. Manning preaching at the
+same time on the prospects of English Catholicism.
+
+Ascending the steep paved lane between S. Gregorio and the Parco, the
+picturesque church on the left with the arcaded apse and tall campanile
+(_c._ A.D. 1206), inlaid with coloured tiles and marbles, is that of
+_SS. Giovanni e Paolo_, two officers in the household of the Christian
+princess Constantia, daughter of the Emperor Constantine, in whose time
+they occupied a position of great influence and trust. When Julian the
+Apostate came to the throne, he attempted to persuade them to sacrifice
+to idols, but they refused, saying, "Our lives are at the disposal of
+the emperor, but our souls and our faith belong to our God." Then
+Julian, fearing to bring them to public martyrdom, lest their popularity
+should cause a rebellion and the example of their well-known fortitude
+be an encouragement to others, sent off soldiers to behead them
+privately in their own house. Hence the inscription on the spot, "Locus
+martyrii SS. Joannis et Paoli in ædibus propriis." The church was built
+by Pammachus, the friend of St. Jerome, on the site of the house of the
+saints. It is entered by a portico adorned with eight ancient granite
+columns, interesting as having been erected by the English pope,
+Nicholas Breakspear, A.D. 1158. The interior, in the basilica form, has
+sixteen ancient columns and a beautiful Opus-Alexandrinum pavement. In
+the centre of the floor is a stone, railed off, upon which it is said
+that the saints were beheaded. Their bodies are contained in a porphyry
+urn under the high altar. In early times these were the only bodies of
+saints preserved within the walls of Rome (the rest being in the
+catacombs). In the Sacramentary of St. Leo, in the Preface of SS. John
+and Paul, it is said, "Of Thy merciful providence Thou hast vouchsafed
+to crown not only the circuit of the city with the glorious passions of
+the martyrs, but also to hide in the very heart of the city itself the
+victorious limbs of St. John and St. Paul."[164]
+
+Above the tribune are frescoes by _Pomerancio_. A splendid chapel on the
+right was built 1868;--two of its alabaster pillars were the gift of
+Pius IX. Beneath the altar on the left of the tribune is preserved the
+embalmed body of St. Paul of the Cross (who died 1776), founder of the
+Order of Passionists, who inhabit the adjoining convent. The aged face
+bears a beautiful expression of repose;--the body is dressed in the robe
+which clothed it when living.[165]
+
+Male visitors are admitted through the convent to its large and
+beautiful _Garden_, which overhangs the steep side of the Coelian
+towards the Coliseum, of which there is a fine view between its ancient
+cypresses. Here, on a site near the monastery, are some remains believed
+to be those of the temple built by Agrippina (_c._ A.D. 57), daughter of
+Germanicus, to the honour of her deified husband (and uncle) Claudius,
+after she had sent him to Olympus by feeding him with poisonous
+mushrooms. This temple was pulled down by Nero, who wished to efface the
+memory of his predecessor, on the pretext that it interfered with his
+Golden House; but was rebuilt under Vespasian. In this garden also is
+the entrance to the vast substructions known as the _Vivarium_, whence
+the wild beasts who devoured the early Christian martyrs were frightened
+by burning tow down a subterranean passage into the arena.
+
+The famous Church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo at Venice was founded by
+emigrants from this convent. The memory of these saints was so much
+honoured up to the time of Pope Gregory the Great, that the eve of their
+festival was an obligatory fast. Their fête (June 26) is still kept with
+great solemnities on the Coelian, when the railing round their place
+of execution is wreathed and laden with flowers. When the "station" is
+held at their church, the apse is illuminated.
+
+Continuing to follow the lane up the Coelian, we reach the richly
+tinted brick _Arch of Dolabella_, erected, A.D. 10, by the consuls P.
+Cornelius Dolabella and Caius Julius Silanus. Nero, building his
+aqueduct to the palace of the Cæsars, made use of this, which already
+existed, and included it in his line of arches.
+
+Above the arch is a _Hermitage_, revered as that where S. Giovanni di
+Matha lived, and where he died in 1213. Before he came to reside here he
+had been miraculously brought from Tunis (whither he had gone on a
+mission) to Ostia, in a boat without helm or sail, in which he knelt
+without ceasing before the crucifix throughout the whole of his voyage!
+
+Passing beneath the gateway, we emerge upon the picturesque irregular
+Piazza of the Navicella, the central point of the Coelian, which is
+surrounded by a most interesting group of buildings, and which contains
+an isolated fragment of the aqueduct of Nero, dear to artists from its
+colour. Behind this, under the trees, is the little marble _Navicella_,
+which is supposed to have been originally a votive offering of a sailor
+to Jupiter Redux, whose temple stood near this; but which was adapted by
+Leo X. as a Christian emblem of the Church,--the boat of St. Peter.
+
+     "The allegory of a ship is peculiarly dwelt upon by the ancient
+     Fathers. A ship entering the port was a favourite heathen emblem of
+     the close of life. But the Christian idea, and its elevation from
+     individual to universal or catholic humanity, is derived directly
+     from the Bible,--see, for instance, I Peter iii. 20, 21. 'Without
+     doubt,' says St. Augustine, 'the ark is the figure of the city of
+     God pilgrimising in this world, in other words, of the Church,
+     which is saved by the wood on which hung the mediator between God
+     and man, the man Christ Jesus.' The same interpretation was
+     recognised in the Latin Church in the days of Tertullian and St.
+     Cyprian, &c. The bark of St. Peter is similarly represented on a
+     Greek gem, found in the Catacombs, as sailing on a fish, probably
+     Leviathan or Satan, while doves, emblematical of the faithful,
+     perch on the mast and stern,--two Apostles row, a third lifts up
+     his hands in prayer, and our Saviour, approaching the vessel,
+     supports Peter by the hand when about to sink.... But the allegory
+     of the ship is carried out to its fullest extent in the
+     fifty-seventh chapter of the second book of the 'Apostolical
+     Constitutions,' supposed to have been compiled in the name of the
+     Apostles, in the fourth century."--_Lord Lindsay's Christian Art_,
+     i. 18.
+
+On the right is (first) the gateway of the deserted convent of
+Redemptorists, called _S. Tommaso in Formis_, which was founded by S.
+Giovanni de Matha, who, when celebrating his first mass at Paris, beheld
+in a vision, an angel robed in white, with a red and blue cross upon his
+breast, and his hands resting in benediction upon the heads of two
+captives,--a white and a black man. The bishop of Paris sent him to Rome
+to seek explanation from Innocent III., who was celebrated as an
+interpreter of dreams,--his foundation of the Franciscan order having
+resulted from one which befell him. S. Giovanni was accompanied to the
+pope by another hermit, Felix de Valois. They found that Innocent had
+himself seen the same vision of the angel between the two captives while
+celebrating mass at the Lateran, and he interpreted it as inculcating
+the duty of charity towards Christian slaves, for which purpose he
+founded the Trinitarians, since called Redemptorists. The story of the
+double vision is commemorated in a _Mosaic_, erected above the door,
+A.D. 1260, and bearing the name of the artist, Jacobus Cosmati.
+
+The next gate beyond the church is that of the _Villa Mattei_, the
+garden of the Redemptorists. (The villa is now the property of Baron
+Richard Hoffmann: visitors are generally admitted upon writing down
+their names at the gate.)
+
+These grounds are well worth visiting--quite the ideal of a deserted
+Roman garden, a wealth of large Roman daisies, roses, and periwinkle
+spreading at will amid remains of ancient statues and columns. A grand
+little avenue of ilexes leads to a terrace whence there is a most
+beautiful view towards the aqueducts and the Alban Hills, with a noble
+sarcophagus and a quantity of fine aloes and prickly-pears in the
+foreground. There is an obelisk, of which only the top is Egyptian. It
+is said that there is a man's hand underneath;--when the obelisk was
+lowered it fell suddenly, and one of the workmen had not time to take
+his hand away. In the grounds annexed to the lower part of the villa is
+the Fountain of Egeria (p. 375).
+
+Almost standing in the garden of the villa, and occupying the site of
+the house of Sta. Cyriaca, is the _Church of Sta. Maria in Domenica_ or
+_della Navicella_. (If no one is here, the hermit at S. Stefano Rotondo
+will unlock it.) The portico is due to Raphael (his design is at
+Windsor). The damp interior (rebuilt by Leo X. from designs of Raphael)
+is solemn and striking. It is in the basilica form, the nave separated
+from the aisles by eighteen columns of granite and one (smaller, near
+the tribune) of porphyry. The frieze, in chiaroscuro, was painted by
+_Giulio Romano_ and _Pierino del Vaga_. Beneath the confessional are
+the bones of Sta. Balbina, whose fortress-like church stands on the
+Pseudo-Aventine. In the tribune are curious mosaics, in which the figure
+of Pope Paschal I. is introduced, the square nimbus round his head being
+an evidence of its portrait character, _i. e._, that it was done during
+his lifetime.[166]
+
+     "Within the tribune are mosaics of the Virgin and Child seated on a
+     throne, with angels ranged in regular rows on each side; and, at
+     her feet, with unspeakable stiffness of limb, the kneeling figure
+     of Pope Paschal I. Upon the walls of the tribune is the Saviour
+     with a nimbus, surrounded with two angels and the twelve apostles,
+     and further below, on a much larger scale, two prophets, who appear
+     to point towards him. The most remarkable thing here is the rich
+     foliage decoration. Besides the wreaths of flowers (otherwise not a
+     rare feature) which are growing out of two vessels on the edge of
+     the dome, the floor beneath the figures is also decorated with
+     flowers--a graceful species of ornament seldom aimed at in the
+     moroseness of Byzantine art. From this point, the decline into
+     utter barbarism is rapid."--_Kugler._
+
+     "The Olivetan monks inhabited the church and cloisters of Sta.
+     Maria in Domenica, commonly called in Navicella, from the rudely
+     sculptured marble monument that stands on the grass before its
+     portal, a remnant of bygone days, to which neither history nor
+     tradition has given a name, but which has itself given one to the
+     picturesque old church which stands on the brow of the Coelian
+     Hill."--_Lady Georgiana Fullerton._
+
+A tradition of the Church narrates that St. Lorenzo, deacon and martyr,
+daily distributed alms to the poor in front of this church--then the
+house of Sta. Cyriaca--with whom he had taken refuge.
+
+Opposite, is the round _Church of S. Stefano Rotondo_, dedicated by St.
+Simplicius in 467. It appears to have been built on the site of an
+ancient circular building, and to have belonged to the great victual
+market--Macellum Magnum--erected by Nero in this quarter.[167] It is
+seldom used for service, except on St. Stephen's Day (December 26), but
+visitors are admitted through a little cloister, in which stands a well
+of beautiful proportions, of temp. Leo X.--attributed to Michael Angelo.
+The interior is exceedingly curious architecturally. It is one hundred
+and thirty-three feet in diameter, with a double circle of granite
+columns, thirty-six in the outer and twenty in the inner series,
+enclosing two tall Corinthian columns, with two pilasters supporting a
+cross wall. In the centre is a kind of temple in which are relics of St.
+Stephen (his body is said to be at S. Lorenzo). In the entrance of the
+church is an ancient marble seat from which St. Gregory is said to have
+read his fourth homily.
+
+The walls are lined with frescoes by _Pomerancio_ and _Tempesta_. They
+begin with the Crucifixion, but as the Holy Innocents really suffered
+before our Saviour, one of them is represented lying on each side of the
+cross. Next comes the stoning of St. Stephen, and the frescoes continue
+to pourtray every phase of human agony in the most revolting detail, but
+are interesting as showing a historical series of what the Roman
+Catholic Church considers as the best authenticated martyrdoms, viz.:
+
+                       {St. Peter, crucified.
+                       {St. Paul, beheaded.
+                       {St. Vitale, buried alive.
+                       {St. Thecla, tossed by a bull.
+  Under Nero           {St. Gervase, beaten to death.
+                       {SS. Protasius, Processus, and Martinianus, beheaded.
+                       {St. Faustus and others, clothed in skins of beasts
+                       {and torn to pieces by dogs.
+
+                       {St. John, boiled in oil (which he survived) at the
+                       {Porta Latina.
+                       {St. Cletus, Pope, beheaded.
+  Under Domitian       {St. Denis, beheaded (and carrying his head).
+                       {St. Domitilla, roasted alive.
+                       {SS. Nereus and Achilles, beheaded.
+
+                       {St. Ignatius, Bishop of Antioch, eaten by lions in
+                       {the Coliseum.
+  Under Trajan         {St. Clement, Pope, tied to an anchor and thrown
+                       {into the sea.
+                       {St. Simon, Bishop of Jerusalem, crucified.
+
+                       {St. Eustachio, his wife Theophista, and his children
+                       {Agapita and Theophista, burnt in a
+                       {brazen bull before the Coliseum.
+  Under Hadrian        {St. Alexander, Pope, beheaded.
+
+                       {St. Sinforosa, drowned, and her seven sons martyred
+                       {in various ways.
+                       {St. Pius, Pope, beheaded.
+
+                       {St. Felicitas and her seven sons martyred in
+  Under Antoninus-Pius {various ways.
+  and Marcus           {St. Justus, beheaded.
+  Aurelius             {St. Margaret, stretched on a rack, and torn to
+                       {pieces with iron forks.
+
+                       {St. Blandina, tossed by a bull, in a net.
+  Under Antoninus      {St. Attalus, roasted on red-hot chair.
+  and Verus            {St. Pothicus and others, burnt alive.
+
+                       {SS. Perpetua and Felicitas, torn to pieces by lions
+  Under Septimius      {in the Coliseum.
+  Severus and          {SS. Victor and Zephyrinus, Leonida and Basil,
+  Caracalla            {beheaded.
+                       {St. Alexandrina, covered with boiling pitch.
+
+                       {St. Calixtus, Pope, thrown into a well with a stone
+                       {round his neck.
+                       {St. Calepodius, dragged through Rome by wild
+                       {horses, and thrown into the Tiber.
+  Under Alexander      {St. Martina, torn with iron forks.
+  Severus              {St. Cecilia, who, failing to be suffocated with hot
+                       {water, was stabbed in the throat.
+                       {St. Urban the Pope, Tibertius, Valerianus, and
+                       {Maximus, beheaded.
+
+                       {St. Pontianus, Pope, beheaded in Sardinia.
+                       {St. Agatha, her breasts cut off.
+                       {SS. Fabian and Cornelius, Popes, and St. Cyprian
+                       {of Carthage, beheaded.
+                       {St. Tryphon, burnt.
+                       {SS. Abdon and Sennen, torn by lions.
+                       {St. Apollonia, burnt, after all her teeth were pulled
+  Under Valerianus     {out.
+  and Gallienus        {St. Stephen, Pope, burnt in his episcopal chair.
+                       {St. Cointha, torn to pieces.
+                       {St. Sixtus, Pope, killed with the sword.
+                       {St. Venantius, thrown from a wall.
+                       {St. Laurence the deacon, roasted on a gridiron.
+                       {St. Hippolytus, torn by wild horses.
+                       {SS. Rufina and Semula, drowned in the Tiber.
+                       {SS. Protus and Hiacinthus, beheaded.
+
+                       {Three hundred Christians, burnt in a furnace.
+                       {St. Tertullian, burnt with hot irons.
+                       {St. Nemesius, beheaded.
+                       {St. Sempronius, Olympius, and Theodulus, burnt.
+  Under Claudius       {St. Marius, hung, with a huge weight tied to his
+  II.                  {feet.
+                       {St. Martha, and her children, martyred in different
+                       {ways.
+                       {SS. Cyprian and Justinian, boiled.
+                       {St. Valentine, killed with the sword.
+
+                       {St. Agapitus (aged 15), hung head downwards over
+                       {a pan of burning charcoal. Inscribed above
+                       {are these words from Wisdom, 'Properavit ut
+  Under Aurelian       {educeret illum a seductionibus et iniquitatibus
+  and Numerianus       {gentis suæ.'
+                       {St. Christina, transfixed through the heart.
+                       {St. Columba, burnt.
+                       {SS. Chrysanthus and Daria, buried alive.
+
+                       {St. Agnes, bound to a stake, afterwards beheaded.
+                       {St. Caius, Pope, beheaded.
+                       {St. Emerantia, stoned to death.
+                       {Nearly the whole population of Nicomedia martyred
+                       {in different ways.
+                       {St. Erasmus, laid in a coffin, into which boiling
+                       {lead was poured.
+                       {St. Blaise, bound to a column, and torn to pieces.
+                       {St. Barbara, burnt with hot irons.
+                       {St. Eustrathius and his companions, martyred in
+  Under Diocletian     {different ways.
+  and Maximianus       {St. Vincent, burnt on a gridiron.
+                       {SS. Primus and Felicianus, torn by lions.
+                       {St. Anastasia, thrown from a rock?
+                       {SS. Quattro Incoronati, martyred in various ways.
+                       {SS. Peter and Marcellinus, beheaded.
+                       {St. Boniface, placed in a dungeon full of boiling
+                       {pitch.
+                       {St. Lucia, shut up in a well full of serpents.
+                       {St. Euphemia, run through with a sword.
+                       {SS. Vitus, Modestus, and Crescentius, boiled alive.
+                       {St. Sebastian, shot with arrows (which he survived).
+                       {SS. Cosmo and Damian, Pantaleon, Saturninus,
+                       {Susanna, Gornius, Adrian, and others, in
+                       {different ways.
+
+                       {St. Catherine of Alexandria, and others, broken
+                       {on the wheel.
+  Under Maxentius      {SS. Faustina and Porfirius, burnt with a company
+                       {of soldiers.
+                       {St. Marcellus, Pope, died worn out by persecution.
+
+                       {St. Simon and 1600 citizens cut into fragments.
+  Under Maximinus      {St. Peter, Bishop of Alexandra, and forty soldiers,
+  and Licinius         {left to die, up to their waists in a frozen lake.
+
+                       {SS. John and Paul, beheaded.
+                       {St. Artemius, crushed between two stones.
+  Under Julian the     {St. Pigmenius, drowned in the Tiber.
+  Apostate             {St. Bibiana, flogged to death, and thrown for food
+                       {to dogs in the Forum.
+
+The last picture represents the reunion of eminent martyrs (in which the
+Roman Church includes English sufferers under Elizabeth), and above is
+inscribed this verse from Isaiah xxv., "Laudabit populus fortis, civitas
+gentium robustarum."
+
+     "Au-dessus du tableau de la Crucifixion se trouve cette
+     inscription: 'Roi glorieux des martyrs, s'il donne sa vie pour
+     racheter la péché, il verra une postérité sans fin.' Et quelle
+     postérité! Hommes, femmes, vieillards, jeunes hommes, jeunes
+     filles, enfants! Comme tous accourent, comme tous savent
+     mourir."--_Une Chrétienne à Rome._
+
+     "Les païens avaient divinisé la vie, les chrétiens divinisèrent la
+     mort."--_Madame de Stael._
+
+     "S. Stefano Rotondo exhibits, in a series of pictures all round the
+     church, the martyrdoms of the Christians in the so-called
+     persecutions, with a general picture of the most eminent martyrs
+     since the triumph of Christianity. No doubt many of the particular
+     stories thus painted will bear no critical examination; it is
+     likely enough, too, that Gibbon has truly accused the general
+     statements of exaggeration. But this is a thankless labour, such as
+     Lingard and others have undertaken with regard to the St.
+     Bartholomew massacre, and the Irish massacre of 1642. Divide the
+     sum total of reported martyrs by twenty,--by fifty, if you
+     will,--but after all you have a number of persons of all ages and
+     sexes suffering cruel torments and death for conscience' sake and
+     for Christ's, and by their sufferings manifestly, with God's
+     blessing, ensuring the triumph of Christ's gospel. Neither do I
+     think that we consider the excellence of this martyr-spirit half
+     enough. I do not think pleasure is a sin: the stoics of old, and
+     the ascetic Christians since, who have said so (see the answers of
+     that excellent man, Pope Gregory the Great, to Augustine's
+     questions, as given at length by Bede), have, in saying so,
+     outstepped the simplicity and wisdom of Christian truth. But,
+     though pleasure is not a sin, yet surely the contemplation of
+     suffering for Christ's sake is a thing most needful to us in our
+     days, from whom, in our daily life, suffering seems so far removed.
+     And, as God's grace enabled rich and delicate persons, women, and
+     even children, to endure all extremities of pain and reproach in
+     times past, so there is the same grace no less mighty now, and if
+     we do not close ourselves against it, it might in us be no less
+     glorified in a time of trial. And that such times of trial will
+     come, my children, in your times, if not in mine, I do believe
+     fully, both from the teaching of man's wisdom and of God's. And
+     therefore pictures of martyrdom are, I think, very wholesome--not
+     to be sneered at, nor yet to be looked on as a mere
+     excitement,--but as a sober reminder to us of what Satan can do to
+     hurt, and what God's grace can enable the weakest of His people to
+     bear. Neither should we forget those who, by their sufferings, were
+     more than conquerors, not for themselves only, but for us, in
+     securing to us the safe and triumphant existence of Christ's
+     blessed faith--in securing to us the possibility, nay, the actual
+     enjoyment, had it not been for the Antichrist of the priesthood--of
+     Christ's holy and glorious [Greek: ekklêsia], the congregation and
+     commonwealth of Christ's people."--_Arnold's Letters._
+
+     "On croit que l'église de Saint-Etienne-le-Rond est bâtie sur
+     l'emplacement du _Macellum Augusti_. S'il en est ainsi, les
+     supplices des martyrs, hideusement représentés sur les murs de
+     cette église, rappellent ce qu'elle a remplacé."--_Ampère, Emp._ i.
+     270.
+
+The first chapel on the left, dedicated to SS. Primus and Felicianus,
+contains some delicate small mosaics.
+
+     "The mosaics of the small altar of S. Stefano Rotondo, are of A.D.
+     642--649. A brilliantly-decorated cross is represented between two
+     standing figures of St. Primus and St. Felicianus. On the upper end
+     of the cross (very tastefully introduced) appears a small head of
+     Christ with a nimbus, over which the hand of the Father is extended
+     in benediction."--_Kugler._
+
+In the next chapel is a very beautiful tomb of Bernardino Capella, Canon
+of St. Peter's, who died 1524.
+
+In a small house, which formerly stood among the gardens in this
+neighbourhood, Palestrina lived and wrote.
+
+     "Sous le règne de Paul IV., Palestrina faisait partie de la
+     chapelle papale; mais il fut obligé de la quitter, parce-qu'il
+     était marié. Il se retira alors dans une chaumière perdue au milieu
+     des vignes du Mont Coelius, et là, seul, inconnu au monde, il se
+     livra, durant de longs jours, à cette extase de la pensée qui
+     agrandit, au-delà de toute mesure, la puissance créatrice de
+     l'homme. Le désir des Pères du concile lui ayant été manifesté, il
+     prit aussitôt une plume, écrivit en tête de son cahier, 'Mon Dieu,
+     éclairez-moi,' et se mit à l'oeuvre avec un saint enthousiasme.
+     Ses premiers efforts ne répondirent pas à l'idéal que son génie
+     s'était formé; mais peu à peu ses pensées s'éclaircirent, et les
+     flots de poésie qui inondaient son âme, se répandirent en mélodies
+     touchantes. Chaque parole du texte retentissait clairement, allait
+     chercher toutes les consciences, et les exaltait dans une émotion
+     commune. La _messe du pape Marcel_ trancha la question; et Pie IV.
+     s'écria, après l'avoir entendue, qu'il avait cru assister aux
+     concerts des anges."--_Gournerie, Rome Chrétienne_, ii. 195.
+
+Following the lane of S. Stefano Rotondo--skirted by broken fragments of
+Nero's aqueduct--almost to its debouchment near St. J. Lateran, and then
+turning to the left, we reach the quaint fortress like church and
+convent of the _Santi Quattro Incoronati_ crowned by a stumpy campanile
+of 1112. The full title of this church is "I Santi quattro Pittori
+Incoronati e i cinque Scultori Martiri," the names which the Church
+attributes to the painters being Severus, Severianus, Carpoforus, and
+Vittorinus; and those of the sculptors Claudius, Nicostratus,
+Sinforianus, Castorius, and Simplicius,--who all suffered for refusing
+to carve and paint idols for Diocletian. Their festa is kept on Nov. 8.
+
+This church was founded on the site of a temple of Diana by Honorius I.,
+A.D. 622; rebuilt by Leo IV. A.D. 850; and again rebuilt in its present
+form by Paschal II., who consecrated it afresh in A.D. 1111. It is
+approached through a double court, in which are many ancient
+columns,--perhaps remains of the temple. Some antiquaries suppose that
+the church itself was once of larger size, and that the pillars which
+now form its atrium were once included in the nave. The interior is
+arranged on the English plan with a triforium and a clerestory, the
+triforium being occupied by the nuns of the adjoining convent. The
+aisles are groined, but the nave has a wooden ceiling. Behind the
+tribune is a vaulted passage, partly subterranean. The tribune contains
+a marble throne, and is adorned with frescoes by _Giovanni di San
+Giovanni_.[168] In the right aisle are preserved some of the verses of
+Pope Damasus. Another inscription tells of the restoration of the church
+in the fifteenth century, and describes the state of desolation into
+which it had fallen.
+
+    "Hæc quæcumque vides veteri prostrata ruina
+    Obruta verberis, ederis, dumisque jacebant."
+
+Opening out of the court in front of the church is the little _Chapel of
+S. Sylvestro_, built by Innocent II. in 1140. It contains a series of
+very curious frescoes.
+
+     "Showing the influence of Byzantine upon Roman art is the little
+     chapel of S. Silvestro, detailing the history of the conversion of
+     Constantine with a naïveté which, with the exception of a certain
+     dignity in some of the figures, constitutes their sole attraction.
+     They are indeed little better than Chinese paintings; the last of
+     the series, representing Constantine leading Pope Sylvester's horse
+     by the bridle, walking beside him in his long flowing robe, with a
+     chattah held over his head by an attendant, has quite an Asiatic
+     character."--_Lord Lindsay's Christian Art._
+
+     "Here, as in so many instances, legend is the genuine reflex, not
+     of the external, but the moral part of history. In this series of
+     curious wall-paintings, we see Constantine dismissing, consoled and
+     laden with gifts, the mothers whose children were to be slaughtered
+     to provide a bath of blood, the remedy prescribed--but which he
+     humanely rejected--for his leprosy, his punishment for persecuting
+     the Church while he yet lingered in the darkness of paganism; we
+     see the vision of St. Peter and St. Paul, who appear to him in his
+     dreams, and prescribe the infallible cure for both physical and
+     moral disease through the waters of baptism; we see the mounted
+     emissaries, sent by the emperor to seek St. Sylvester, finding that
+     pontiff concealed in a cavern on Mount Soracte; we see that saint
+     before the emperor, exhibiting to him the authentic portraits of
+     the two apostles (said to be still preserved at St. Peter's),
+     pictures in which Constantine at once recognises the forms seen in
+     his vision, assuming them to be gods entitled to his worship; we
+     see the imperial baptism, with a background of fantastic
+     architecture, the rite administered both by immersion (the neophyte
+     standing in an ample font) and affusion; we see the pope on a
+     throne, before which the emperor is kneeling, to offer him a
+     tiara--no doubt the artist intended thus to imply the immediate
+     bestowal of temporal sovereignty (very generally believed the act
+     of Constantine in the first flush of his gratitude and neophyte
+     zeal) upon the papacy; lastly, we see the pontiff riding into Rome
+     in triumph, Constantine himself leading his horse, and other mitred
+     bishops following on horseback. Another picture--evidently by the
+     same hand--quaintly represents the finding of the true cross by St.
+     Helena, and the miracle by which it was distinguished from the
+     crosses of the two thieves,--a subject here introduced because a
+     portion of that revered relic was among treasures deposited in this
+     chapel, as an old inscription, on one side, records. The largest
+     composition on these walls, which completes the series, represents
+     the Saviour enthroned amidst angels and apostles. This chapel is
+     now only used for the devotions of a guild of marble-cutters, and
+     open for mass on but one Sunday--the last--in every
+     month."--_Hemans Mediæval Christian Art._
+
+In the fresco of the Crucifixion in this chapel an angel is represented
+taking off the crown of thorns and putting on a real crown, an incident
+nowhere else introduced in art.
+
+The castellated Convent of the Santi Quattro was built by Paschal II. at
+the same time as the church, and was used as a papal palace while the
+Lateran was in ruins, hence its defensive aspect, suited to the
+troublous times of the anti-popes. It is now inhabited by Augustinian
+Nuns.
+
+At the foot of the Coelian beneath the Incoronati, and in the street
+leading from the Coliseum to the Lateran, is the _Church of S.
+Clemente_, to which recent discoveries, have given an extraordinary
+interest.
+
+The upper church, in spite of modernizations under Clement XI. in the
+last century, retains more of the details belonging to primitive
+ecclesiastical architecture than any other building in Rome. It was
+consecrated in memory of Clement, the fellow-labourer of St Paul, and
+the third bishop of Rome, upon the site of his family house. It was
+already important in the time of Gregory the Great, who here read his
+thirty-third and thirty-eighth homilies. It was altered by Adrian I. in
+A.D. 772, and by John VIII. in A.D. 800, and again restored in A.D. 1099
+by Paschal II., who had been cardinal of the church, and who was elected
+to the papacy within its walls. The greater part of the existing
+building is thus either of the ninth or the twelfth century.
+
+At the west end a porch supported by two columns, and attributed to the
+eighth century, leads into the _quadriporticus_, from which is the
+entrance to the nave, separated from its aisles by sixteen columns
+evidently plundered from pagan buildings. Raised above the nave and
+protected by a low marble wall is the _cancellum_, preserving its
+ancient pavement, ambones, altar, and episcopal throne.
+
+     "In S. Clemente, built on the site of his paternal mansion, and
+     restored at the beginning of the twelfth century, an example is
+     still to be seen, in perfect preservation, of the primitive church;
+     everything remains in statu quo--the court, the portico, the
+     cancellum, the ambones, paschal candlestick, crypt, and
+     ciborium--virgin and intact; the wooden roof has unfortunately
+     disappeared, and a small chapel, dedicated to St. Catherine, has
+     been added, yet even this is atoned for by the lovely frescoes of
+     Masaccio. I most especially recommend this relic of early
+     Christianity to your affectionate and tender admiration. Yet the
+     beauty of S. Clemente is internal only, outwardly it is little more
+     than a barn."--_Lord Lindsay._
+
+On the left of the side entrance is the Chapel of the Passion, clothed
+with frescoes of _Masaccio_, which, though restored, are very
+beautiful--over the altar is the Crucifixion, on the side walls the
+stories of St. Clement and St Catherine.
+
+     "The celebrated series relating to St. Catherine is still most
+     striking in the grace and refinement of its principal figures:
+
+     "1. St. Catherine (cousin of the Emperor Constantine) refuses to
+     worship idols.
+
+     "2. She converts the empress of Maximin. She is seen through a
+     window seated inside a prison, and the empress is seated outside
+     the prison, opposite to her, in a graceful listening attitude.
+
+     "3. The empress is beheaded, and her soul is carried to heaven by
+     an angel.
+
+     "4. Catherine disputes with the pagan philosophers. She is standing
+     in the midst of a hall, the forefinger of one hand laid on the
+     other, as in the act of demonstrating. She is represented fair and
+     girlish, dressed with great simplicity in a tunic and girdle,--no
+     crown, nor any other attribute. The sages are ranged on each side,
+     some lost in thought, others in astonishment, the tyrant (Maximin)
+     is seen behind, as if watching the conference, while through an
+     open window we behold the fire kindled for the converted
+     philosophers, and the scene of their execution.
+
+     "5. Catherine is delivered from the wheels, which are broken by an
+     angel.
+
+     "6. She is beheaded. In the background three angels lay her in a
+     sarcophagus on the summit of Mount Sinai."--See _Jameson's Sacred
+     Art_, p. 491.
+
+     "'Masaccio,' says Vasari, 'whose enthusiasm for art would not allow
+     him to rest contentedly at Florence, resolved to go to Rome, that
+     he might learn there to surpass every other painter.' It was during
+     this journey, which, in fact, added much to his renown, that he
+     painted, in the Church of San Clemente--the chapel which now so
+     usually disappoints the expectations of the traveller, on account
+     of the successive restorations by which his work has been
+     disfigured.... The heavy brush which has passed over each
+     compartment has spared neither the delicacy of the outline, the
+     roundness of the forms, nor the play of light and shade: in a word,
+     nothing which constitutes the peculiar merit of Masaccio."--_Rio,
+     Poetry of Christian Art._
+
+At the end of the right aisle is the beautiful tomb of Cardinal
+Rovarella, ob. 1476. A statue of St. John the Baptist is by Simone,
+brother of Donatello. Beneath the altar repose the relics of St.
+Clement, St. Ignatius of Antioch--martyred in the Coliseum, St. Cyril,
+and St. Servulus.
+
+    "'The Fathers are in dust, yet live to God:'
+      So says the Truth; as if the motionless clay
+    Still held the seeds of life beneath the sod,
+      Smouldering and struggling till the judgment-day.
+
+    "And hence we learn with reverence to esteem
+      Of these frail houses, though the grave confines:
+    Sophist may urge his cunning tests, and deem
+      That they are earth;--but they are heavenly shrines."
+
+    _J. H. Newman_, 1833.
+
+     "St. Grégoire raconte que de son temps on voyait dans le vestibule
+     de l'église Saint Clément un pauvre paralytique, priant et
+     mendiant, sans que jamais une plainte sortît de sa bouche, malgré
+     les vives douleurs qu'il endurait. Chaque fidèle lui donnait, et le
+     paralytique distribuait à son tour, aux malheureux ce qu'il avait
+     reçu de la compassion publique. Lorsqu'il mourut, son corps fut
+     placé près de celui de Saint Clément, pape, et de Saint Ignace
+     d'Antioche, et son nom fut inscrit au martyrologe. On le vénère
+     dans l'Eglise sous le nom de Saint Servulus."--_Une Chrétienne à
+     Rome._
+
+The mosaics in the tribune are well worth examination.
+
+     "There are few Christian mosaics in which mystic meaning and poetic
+     imagination are more felicitous than in those on the apse of S.
+     Clemente, where the crucifix, and a wide-spreading vine-tree
+     (allusive to His words, who said 'I am the True Vine'), spring from
+     the same stem; twelve doves, emblems of the apostles, being on the
+     cross with the Divine Sufferer; the Mother and St. John beside it,
+     the usual hand stretched out in glory above, with a crown; the four
+     doctors of the Church, also other small figures, men and birds,
+     introduced amidst the mazy vine-foliage; and at the basement, the
+     four mystic rivers, with stags and peacocks drinking at their
+     streams. The figure of St. Dominic is a modern addition. It seems
+     evident, from characteristics of style, that the other mosaics
+     here, above the apsidal arch, and at the spandrils, are more
+     ancient, perhaps by about a century; these latter representing the
+     Saviour in benediction, the four Evangelic emblems, St. Peter and
+     St. Clement, St. Paul and St. Laurence seated; the two apostles
+     designated by their names, with the Greek 'hagios' in Latin
+     letters. The later art-work was ordered (see the Latin inscription
+     below) in 1299, by a cardinal titular of S. Clemente, nephew to
+     Boniface VIII.; the same who also bestowed the beautiful gothic
+     tabernacle for the holy oils, with a relief representing the donor
+     presented by St. Dominic to the Virgin and Child--set against the
+     wall near the tribune, an admirable, though but an accessorial,
+     object of mediæval art."--_Hemans' Mediæval Art._
+
+From the sacristy a staircase leads to the _Lower Church_ (occasionally
+illuminated for the public) first discovered in 1857. Here, there are
+several pillars of the rarest marbles in perfect preservation, and a
+very curious series of frescoes of the eighth and ninth centuries, parts
+of which are still clear and almost uninjured. These include--the
+Crucifixion, with the Virgin and St. John standing by the cross,--the
+earliest example in Rome of this well-known subject; the Ascension,
+sometimes called by Romanists (in preparation for their dogma of 1870),
+"the Assumption of the Virgin," because the figure of the Virgin is
+elevated above the other apostles, though she is evidently intent on
+watching the retreating figure of her divine Son--in this fresco the
+figure of a pope is introduced (with the square nimbus, showing that it
+was painted in his lifetime), and the inscription "Sanctissimus dominus,
+Leo Papa Romanus," probably Leo III. or Leo IV.; the Maries at the
+sepulchre; the descent into Hades; the Marriage of Cana; the Funeral of
+St. Cyril with Pope Nicholas I. (858--67) walking in the procession;
+and, the most interesting of all--probably of somewhat later date, the
+story of S. Clemente, and that of S. Alexis, whose adventures are
+described in the account of his church on the Aventine. An altar of
+Mithras was discovered during the excavations here. Beneath this crypt
+is still a third structure, discovered 1867,--probably the very house of
+St. Clement,--(decorated with rich stucco ornament)--sometimes supposed
+to be the 'cavern near S. Clemente' to which the Emperor Otho III., who
+died at the age of twenty-two, retired in A.D. 999 with his confessor,
+and where he spent fourteen days in penitential retirement.
+
+According to the Acts of the Martyrs, the Prefect Mamertinus ordered the
+arrest of Pope Clement, and intended to put him to death, but was
+deterred by a tumult of the people, who cried with one voice, "What evil
+has he done, or rather what good has he not done?" Clement was then
+condemned to exile in the Chersonese, and Mamertinus, touched by his
+submission and courage, dismissed him with the words--"May the God you
+worship bring you relief in the place of your banishment."
+
+In his exile Clement received into the Church more than two hundred
+Christians who had been waiting for baptism, and miraculously discovered
+water for their support in a barren rock, to which he was directed by a
+Lamb, in whose form he recognised the guidance of the Son of God. The
+enthusiasm which these marvels excited led Trajan to send executioners,
+by whom he was tied to an anchor and thrown into the sea. But his
+disciples, kneeling on the shore, prayed that his relics might be given
+up to them, when the waves retired, and disclosed a marble chapel, built
+by unearthly hands--over the tomb of the saint. From the Chersonese the
+remains of St. Clement were brought back to Rome by St. Cyril, the
+Apostle of the Slavonians, who, dying here himself, was buried by his
+side.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+THE AVENTINE.
+
+     Jewish Burial-ground--Sta. Sabina--S. Alessio--The Priorato--Sta.
+     Prisca--The Vigna dei Gesuiti--S. Sabba--Sta. Balbina.
+
+
+The Aventine, which is perhaps the highest, and now--from its coronet of
+convents--the most picturesque of all the Roman hills, is of irregular
+form, and is divided into two parts by a valley; one side, the higher,
+is crowned by the churches of Sta. Sabina, S. Alessio, and the Priorato,
+which together form "the Capitol of the Aventine;" the other, known as
+the Pseudo-Aventine, is marked by the churches of S. Sabba and Sta.
+Balbina.
+
+Virgil and Ovid allude repeatedly to the thick woods which once clothed
+the Aventine.[169] Dionysius speaks of the laurels or bays, an
+indigenous tree of ancient Rome, which grew there in abundance. Only one
+side of the hill, that towards the Tiber, now shows any of the natural
+cliff, but it was once remarkable for its rocks, and the Pseudo-Aventine
+obtained the name of Saxum from a huge solitary mass of stone which
+surmounted it.
+
+    "Est moles nativa; loco res nomina fecit
+    Appellant Saxum: pars bona mentis ea est."[170]
+
+The upper portion of the hill is of volcanic formation, and it is
+supposed that the legend of Cacus vomiting forth flames from his cave on
+the side of the Aventine had its origin in noxious sulphuric vapours
+emitted by the soil, as is still the case at the Solfatara on the way to
+Tivoli. The demi-god Faunus, who had an oracle at the Solfatara, had
+also an oracle on this hill.[171]
+
+Some derive the name of Aventine from Aventinus-Silvius, king of Alba,
+who was buried here;[172] others from Avens, a Sabine river; while
+others say that the name simply means "the hill of birds," and connect
+it with the story of the foundation of the city. For when it became
+necessary to decide whether Romulus or Remus was to rule over the
+newly-built Rome, Romulus seated himself upon the Palatine to watch the
+auspices, but Remus upon the rock of the Pseudo-Aventine. Here Remus saw
+only six vultures, while Romulus saw twelve, but each interpreted the
+augury in his own favour, and Remus leapt across the boundary of the
+Palatine, whether in derision or war, and was slain by his brother, or
+by Celer, one of his followers. He was brought back and buried upon the
+Aventine, and the stone whence he had watched the vultures was
+thenceforth called the Sacred Rock. Ancient tradition places the tomb of
+Remus on the Pseudo-Aventine, but in the middle ages the tomb of Caius
+Cestus was believed--even by Petrarch--to be the monument of Remus.
+
+Some authorities consider that when Remus was watching the vultures on
+the Pseudo-Aventine, that part of the hill was already occupied by a
+Pelasgic fortress called Romoria, but at this time and for long
+afterwards, the higher part of the Aventine was held by the Sabines.
+Here the Sabine king Numa dedicated an altar to Jupiter Elicius,[173]
+and the Sabine god Consus had also an altar here. Hither Numa came to
+visit the forest-gods Faunus and Picus at their sacred fountain:
+
+    Lucus Aventino suberat niger ilicis umbra,
+      Quo posses viso dicere, numen inest.
+    In medio gramen, muscoque adoperta virenti
+      Manabat saxo vena perennis aquæ.
+    Inde fere soli Faunus Picusque bibebant.[174]
+
+By mingling wine and honey with the waters of their spring, Numa snared
+the gods, and compelled them to tell him how he might learn from Jupiter
+the knowledge of his will, and to reveal to him a charm against thunder
+and lightning.[175]
+
+The Sabine king Tatius, the rival of Romulus, was buried on the Aventine
+"in a great grove of laurels," and, at his tomb, then called
+Armilustrum, it was the custom, every year, in the month of October, to
+hold a feast for the purification of arms, accompanied by martial
+dances. A horse was at the same time sacrificed to Janus, the Sabine
+war-god.[176]
+
+Ancus Martius surrounded the Aventine by a wall,[177] and settled there
+many thousands of the inhabitants of Latin towns which he had subdued.
+This was the origin of the plebs, who were soon to become such
+formidable opponents of the first colonists of the Palatine, who took
+rank as patricians, and who at first found in them an important
+counterpoise to the power of the original Sabine inhabitants, against
+whom the little Latin colony of Romulus had hitherto been standing
+alone. The Aventine continued always to be the especial property and
+sanctuary of the plebs, the patricians avoiding it--in the first
+instance, it is supposed, from an impression that the hill was of evil
+omen, owing to the story of Remus. In B.C. 416, the tribune Icilius
+proposed and carried a law by which all the public lands of the Aventine
+were officially conferred upon the plebs, who forthwith began to cover
+its heights with houses, in which each family of the people had a right
+in one floor,--a custom which still prevails at Rome. At this time,
+also, the Aventine was included for the first time within the
+pomoerium or religious boundary of the city. Owing to its being the
+"hill of the people," the commons henceforth held their comitia and
+elected their tribunes here; and here, after the murder of Virginia, to
+whom the tribune Icilius had been betrothed, the army assembled against
+Appius Claudius.
+
+Very little remains of the numerous temples which once adorned the hill,
+but their sites are tolerably well ascertained. We still ascend the
+Aventine by the ancient Clivus Publicius, originally paved by two
+brothers Publicii, who were ædiles at the same time, and had embezzled a
+public sum of money, which they were compelled to expend thus--
+
+    Parte locant clivum, qui tune erat ardua rupes:
+    Utile nunc iter est, Publiciumque vocant.[178]
+
+At the foot of this road was the temple of Luna, or Jana, in which
+Tatius had also erected an altar to Janus or the Sun.
+
+    Luna regit menses; hujus quoque tempora mensis
+    Finit Aventino Luna colenda jugo.[179]
+
+It was up this road that Caius Gracchus, a few hours before his death,
+fled to take refuge in a small Temple of Diana, which stood somewhere
+near the present site of S. Alessio, where, kneeling before the statue
+of the goddess, he implored that the people who had betrayed him might
+never be free. Close by, singularly enough, rose the Temple of Liberty,
+which his grandfather Sempronius Gracchus had built. Adjoining this
+temple was a hall where the archives of the censors were kept, and where
+they transacted business; this was rebuilt by Asinius Pollio, who added
+to it the first public library established in Rome.
+
+    Nec me, quæ doctis patuerunt prima libellis
+    Atria, Libertas tangere passa sua est.[180]
+
+In the same group stood the famous sanctuary of Juno Regina, vowed by
+Camillus during the siege of Veii, and to which the Juno of the captured
+city was removed after she had given a verbal consent when asked whether
+she wished to go to Rome and inhabit a new temple, much as the modern
+queen of heaven is apt to do in modern times at Rome.[181] The Temples
+of Liberty and Juno were both rebuilt under Augustus; some imagine that
+they were under a common roof. If they were distinct buildings, nothing
+of the former remains; some beautiful columns built into the church of
+Sta. Sabina are all that remain of the temple of Juno, though Livy
+thought that her reign here would be eternal--
+
+    ... in Aventinum, æternam sedem suam.[182]
+
+Also belonging to this group was a Temple of Minerva.
+
+    Sol abit a Geminis, et Cancri signa rubescunt:
+    Coepit Aventina Pallas in arce coli.[183]
+
+Here the dramatist Livius Andronicus, who lived upon the Aventine, was
+honoured after his death by a company of scribes and actors. Another
+poet who lived upon the Aventine was Ennius, who is described as
+inhabiting a humble dwelling, and being attended by a single female
+slave. The poet Gallus also lived here.
+
+    Totis, Galle, jubes tibi me servire diebus,
+    Et per Aventinum ter quater ire tuum![184]
+
+On the other side of the Aventine (above the Circus Maximus), which was
+originally covered with myrtle--a shrub now almost extinct at Rome--on
+the site now occupied by Sta. Prisca, was a more important Temple of
+Diana, sometimes called by the Sabine name of Murcia,--built in
+imitation of the temple of Diana at Ephesus. Propertius writes--
+
+    Phyllis Aventinæ quædam est vicina Dianæ;[185]
+
+and Martial--
+
+    Quique videt propius magna certamina Circi
+    Laudat Aventinæ vicinus Sura Dianæ.[186]
+
+Here till the time of Dionysius was preserved the pillar of brass on
+which was engraved the law of Icilius.
+
+Near this were the groves of Simila, the retreat of the infamous
+association discovered and terribly punished at the time of the Greek
+wars; and--in the time of the empire--the gardens of Servilia, where she
+received the devotion of Julius Cæsar, and in which her son Brutus is
+said to have conspired his murder, and to have been interrogated by his
+wife Portia as to the mystery, which he refused to reveal to her,
+fearing her weakness under torture, until, by the concealment of a
+terrible wound which she had given to herself, she had proved to him
+that the daughter of Cato could suffer and be silent.
+
+The Aventine continued to be inhabited, and even populous, until the
+sixth century, from which period its prosperity began to decline. In the
+eleventh century it was occupied by the camp of Henry IV. of Germany,
+when he came in war against Gregory VII. In the thirteenth century
+Honorius III. made a final effort to re-establish its popularity; but
+with each succeeding generation it has become--partly owing to the
+ravages of malaria--more and more deserted, till now its sole
+inhabitants are monks, and the few ague-stricken contadini who look
+after the monastic vineyards. In wandering along its desolate lanes,
+hemmed in by hedges of elder, or by walls covered with parasitical
+plants, it is difficult to realize the time when it was so thickly
+populated; and except in the quantities of coloured marbles with which
+its fields and vineyards are strewn, there is nothing to remind one of
+the 16 ædiculæ, 64 baths, 25 granaries, 88 fountains, 130 of the larger
+houses called _domus_, and 2487 of the poorer houses called _insulæ_,
+which occupied this site.
+
+The present interest of the hill is almost wholly ecclesiastical, and
+centres around the story of St. Dominic, and the legends of the saints
+and martyrs connected with its different churches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The best approach to the Aventine is behind the Church of Sta. Maria in
+Cosmedin, where the _Via Sta. Sabina_, once the Clivus Publicius
+(available for carriages), turns up the hill.
+
+A lane on the left leads to the Jewish burial-ground, used as a place of
+sepulture for the Ghetto for many centuries. A curious instance of the
+cupidity attributed to the Jewish race may be seen in the fact, that
+they have, for a remuneration of four baiocchi, habitually given leave
+to their neighbours to discharge the contents of a rubbish cart into
+their cemetery, a permission of which the Romans have so abundantly
+availed themselves, that the level of the soil has been raised by many
+yards, and whole sets of older monuments have been completely swallowed
+up, and new ones erected over their heads.
+
+After we turn the corner at the hill top, with its fine view over the
+Palatine, and cross the trench of fortification formed during the fear
+of a Garibaldian invasion in 1867, we skirt what appears to be part of a
+city wall. This is in fact the wall of the Honorian city, built by Pope
+Honorius III., of the great family of Savelli, whose idea was to render
+the Aventine once more the populous and favourite portion of the city,
+and who began great works for this purpose. Before his arrangements were
+completed St. Dominic arrived in Rome, and was appointed master of the
+papal household, and abbot of the convent of Sta. Sabina, where his
+ministrations and popularity soon formed such an attraction, that the
+pope wisely abandoned his design of founding a new city which should
+commemorate himself, and left the field to St. Dominic,--to whom he made
+over the land on this side of the hill. Henceforward the convent of
+Sta. Sabina and its surroundings have become, more than any other spot,
+connected with the history of the Dominican Order,--there, all the great
+saints of the Order have received their first inspiration,--have
+resided,--or are buried; there St. Dominic himself received in a
+beatific vision the institution of the rosary; there he was ordered to
+plant the famous orange-tree, which, being then unknown in Rome, he
+brought from his native Spain as the only present which it was suitable
+for the gratitude of a poor monk to offer to his patron Honorius, who
+was himself one of the great botanists of his time,--an orange-tree
+which still lives, and which is firmly believed by the monks to flourish
+or fail with the fortunes of the Order, so that it has lately been
+greatly the worse for the suppression of the convents in Northern Italy,
+though the residence of Père Lacordaire within the convent proved
+exceedingly beneficial to it, and his visit even caused a new sucker to
+sprout.
+
+The _Church of Sta. Sabina_ was built on the site of the house of the
+saint--in which she suffered martyrdom under the Emperor Hadrian,[187]
+in A.D. 423--by Peter, a priest of Illyria, "rich for the poor, and poor
+for himself" _(pauperibus locuples, sibi pauper)_, as we read by the
+mosaic inscription inside the principal entrance. St. Gregory the Great
+read two of his homilies here. The church was rebuilt in 824, and
+restored and reconsecrated by Gregory IX. in 1238. Much of its
+interest,--ancient pavements, mosaics, &c.,--was destroyed in 1587 by
+Sixtus V., who took the credit of discovering the relics of the martyrs
+who are buried beneath the altar.
+
+On the west is a covered corridor containing several ancient
+inscriptions. It is supported on one side by ancient spiral columns of
+pavonazzetto, on the other these have been plundered and replaced by
+granite. Hence, through a window, ladies are allowed to gaze upon the
+celebrated orange-tree, 665 years old, which they cannot approach; a
+rude figure of St. Dominic is sculptured upon the low wall which
+surrounds it. The west door, of the twelfth century, in a richly
+sculptured frame, is cited by Kugler as an instance of the extinction of
+the Byzantine influence upon art. Its panels are covered with carvings
+from the Old and New Testament, referred by Mamachi to the seventh, by
+Agincourt to the thirteenth century. Some of the subjects have been
+destroyed; among those which remain are the Annunciation, the Angels
+appearing to the Shepherds, the Angel and Zachariah in the Temple, the
+Magi, Moses turning the rods into serpents, the ascent of Elijah, Christ
+before Pilate, the denial of Peter, and the Ascension. Within the
+entrance are the only remains of the magnificent mosaic, erected in 431,
+under Celestine I., which entirely covered the west wall till the time
+of Sixtus V., consisting of an inscription in large letters, with a
+female figure on either side, that on the left bearing the name
+"Ecclesia cum circumcisione," that on the right, "Ecclesia ex gentibus."
+Among the parts destroyed were the four beasts typical of the
+Evangelists, and St. Peter and St. Paul. The church was thus gorgeously
+decorated, because in the time of the Savelli popes, it was what the
+Sistine is now, the Chiesa Apostolica.
+
+The nave is lined by twenty-four Corinthian columns of white marble,
+relics of the temple of Juno Regina, which once stood here. Above, is
+an inlaid frieze of pietradura, of A.D. 431, which once extended up to
+the windows, but was destroyed by Sixtus V., who at the same time built
+up the windows which till then existed over each pier. In the middle of
+the pavement near the altar, is a very curious mosaic figure over the
+grave of Munoz de Zamora, a General of the Dominican Order, who died in
+1300. Nearer the west door are interesting incised slabs representing a
+German bishop and a lady, benefactors of this church, and (on the left)
+a slab with arms in mosaic, to a lady of the Savelli family. In the left
+aisle is another monument of 1312, commemorating a warrior of the
+imperial house of Germany. The high altar covers the remains of Sabina
+and Seraphia, Alexander the Pope, Eventius and Theodulus, all martyrs.
+In the chapel beneath St. Dominic is said to have flagellated himself
+three times nightly, "perché uno colpo solo non abbastava per
+mortificare la carne."
+
+At the end of the right aisle is the Chapel of the Rosary, where a
+beautiful picture of Sassoferrato, called "La Madonna del Rosario,"
+commemorates the vision of St. Dominic on that spot, in which he
+received the rosary from the hands of the Virgin.
+
+     "St. Catherine of Siena kneels with St. Dominic before the throne
+     of the Madonna; the lily at her feet. The Infant Saviour is turned
+     towards her, and with one hand he crowns her with thorns, with the
+     other he presents the rosary. This is the master-piece of the
+     painter, with all his usual elegance, without his usual
+     insipidity."--_Jameson's Monastic Orders._
+
+Few Roman Catholic practices have excited more animadversion than the
+"vain repetition" of the worship of the Rosary. The Père Lacordaire (a
+Dominican) defended it, saying--
+
+     "Le rationaliste sourit en voyant passer de longues files de gens
+     qui redisent une même parole. Celui qui est éclairé d'une meilleure
+     lumière comprend que l'amour n'a qu'un mot, et qu'en le disant
+     toujours, il ne le répète jamais."
+
+Grouped around this chapel are three beautiful tombs,--a cardinal, a
+bishop, and a priest of the end of the fifteenth century. That of the
+cardinal (which is of the well-known Roman type of the time), is
+inscribed "Ut moriens viveret, vixit est moriturus;" the others are
+incised slabs. At the other end of this aisle is a marble slab, on which
+St. Dominic is said to have been wont to lie prostrate in prayer. One
+day while he was lying thus, the Devil in his rage is said to have
+hurled a huge stone (a round black marble, _pietra di paragone_,) at
+him, which missed the saint, who left the attack entirely unnoticed. The
+devil was frantic with disappointment, and the stone, remaining as a
+relic, is preserved on a low pillar in the nave. A small gothic
+ciborium, richly inlaid with mosaic, remains on the left of the tribune.
+
+Opening from the left aisle is a chapel built by Elic of Tuscany--very
+rich in precious marbles. The frame of the panel on the left is said to
+be unique.
+
+It was in this church, in 1218, that St. Hyacinth, struck by the
+preaching of St. Dominic, and by the recollection of the barbarism,
+heathenism, and ignorance which prevailed in many parts of his native
+land of Silesia, offered himself as its missionary, and took the vows of
+the Dominican Order, together with his cousin St. Ceslas. Hither fled to
+the monastic life St. Thomas Aquinas, pursued to the very door of the
+convent by the tears and outcries of his mother, who vainly implored him
+to return to her. One evening, a pilgrim, worn out with travel and
+fatigue, arrived at the door of this convent mounted upon a wretched
+mule, and implored admittance. The prior in mockery asked, "What are you
+come for, my father? are you come to see if the college of cardinals is
+disposed to elect you as pope?" "I come to Rome," replied the pilgrim
+Michele Ghislieri, "because the interests of the Church require it, and
+I shall leave as soon as my task is accomplished; meanwhile I implore
+you to give me a brief hospitality and a little hay for my mule."
+Sixteen years afterwards Ghislieri mounted the papal throne as Pius V.,
+and proved, during a troubled reign, the most rigid follower and eager
+defender of the institutions of St. Dominic. One day as Ghislieri was
+about to kiss his crucifix in the eagerness of prayer, "the image of
+Christ," says the legend, retired of its own accord from his touch, for
+it had been poisoned by an enemy, and a kiss would have been death. This
+crucifix is now preserved as a precious relic in the convent, where the
+cells both of St. Dominic and of St. Pius V. are preserved, though, like
+most historical chambers of Roman saints, their interest is lessened by
+their having been beautified and changed into chapels. In the cell of
+St. Dominic is a portrait by _Bazzani_, founded on the records of his
+personal appearance; the lily lies by his side,--the glory hovers over
+his head,--he is, as the chronicler describes him, "of amazing beauty."
+In this cell he is said frequently to have passed the night in prayer
+with his rival St. Francis of Assisi. The refectory is connected with
+another story of St. Dominic:--
+
+     "It happened that when he was residing with forty of his friars in
+     the convent of Sta. Sabina at Rome, the brothers who had been sent
+     to beg for provisions had returned with a very small quantity of
+     bread, and they knew not what they should do, for night was at
+     hand, and they had not eaten all day. Then St. Dominic ordered that
+     they should seat themselves in the refectory, and, taking his place
+     at the head of the table, he pronounced the usual blessing: and
+     behold! two beautiful youths clad in white and shining garments
+     appeared amongst them; one carried a basket of bread, and the other
+     a pitcher of wine, which they distributed to the brethren: then
+     they disappeared, and no one knew how they had come in, nor how
+     they had gone out. And the brethren sat in amazement; but St.
+     Dominic stretched forth his hand, and said calmly, 'My children,
+     eat what God hath sent you:' and it was truly celestial food, such
+     as they had never tasted before nor since."--_Jameson's Monastic
+     Orders_, p. 369.
+
+Other saints who sojourned for a time in this convent were St. Norbert,
+founder of the Premonstratensians (ob. 1134), and St. Raymond de
+Penaforte (ob. 1275), who left his labours in Barcelona for a time in
+1230 to act as chaplain to Gregory IX.
+
+In 1287 a conclave was held at Sta. Sabina for the election of a
+successor to Pope Martin IV., but was broken up by the malaria, six
+cardinals dying at once within the convent, and all the rest taking
+flight except Cardinal Savelli, who would not desert his paternal home,
+and survived by keeping large fires constantly burning in his chamber.
+Ten months afterwards his perseverance was rewarded by his own election
+to the throne as Honorius IV.
+
+In the garden of the convent are some small remains of the palace of the
+Savelli pope, Honorius III. Here, on the declivity of the Aventine, many
+important excavations were made in 1856--57, by the French Prior Besson,
+a person of great intelligence, and he was rewarded by the discovery of
+an ancient Roman house--its chambers paved with black and white mosaic,
+and some fine fragments of the wall of Servius Tullius, formed of
+gigantic blocks of peperino. In the chambers which were found decorated
+in stucco with remnants of painting in figures and arabesque ornaments,
+"one little group represented a sacrifice before the statue of a god, in
+an ædicula. Some rudely scratched Latin lines on this surface led to the
+inference that this chamber, after becoming subterranean and otherwise
+uninhabitable, had served for a prison; one unfortunate inmate having
+inscribed curses against those who caused his loss of liberty; and
+another, more devout, left record of his vows to sacrifice to Bacchus in
+case of recovering that blessing."[188]
+
+Since the death of Prior Besson[189] the works have been abandoned, and
+the remains already discovered have been for the most part earthed up
+again. A nympheum, a well, and several subterranean passages, are still
+visible on the hillside.
+
+Just beyond Sta. Sabina is the Hieronymite _Church and Convent of S.
+Alessio_, the only monastery of Hieronymites in Italy where meat was
+allowed to be eaten,--in consideration of the malaria. The first church
+erected here was built in A.D. 305 in honour of St. Boniface, martyr, by
+Aglae, a noble Roman lady, whose servant (and lover) he had been. It was
+reconsecrated in A.D. 401 by Innocent I., in honour of St. Alexis, whose
+paternal mansion was on this site. This saint, young and beautiful, took
+a vow of virginity, and being forced by his parents into marriage, fled
+on the same evening from his home, and was given up as lost. Worn out
+and utterly changed he returned many years afterwards to be near those
+who were dear to him, and remained, unrecognised, as a poor beggar,
+under the stairs which led to his father's house. Seventeen years
+passed away, when a mysterious voice suddenly echoed through the Roman
+churches, crying, "Seek ye out the man of God, that he may pray for
+Rome." The crowd was stricken with amazement,--when the same voice
+continued, "Seek in the house of Euphemian." Then, pope, emperor, and
+senators rushed together to the Aventine, where they found the despised
+beggar dying beneath the doorstep, with his countenance beaming with
+celestial light, a crucifix in one hand, and a sealed paper in the
+other. Vainly the people strove to draw the paper from the fingers which
+were closing in the gripe of death, but when Innocent I. bade the dying
+man in God's name to give it up, they opened, and the pope read aloud to
+the astonished multitude the secret of Alexis; and his father Euphemian
+and his widowed bride, regained in death the son and the husband they
+had lost.
+
+S. Alessio is entered through a courtyard.
+
+     "The courtyards in front of S. Alessio, Sta. Cecilia, S. Gregorio,
+     and other churches, are like the vestibula of the ancient Roman
+     houses, on the site of which they were probably built. This style
+     of building, says Tacitus, was generally introduced by Nero. Beyond
+     opened the _prothyra_, or inner entrance, with the _cellæ_ for the
+     porter and dog, _both_ chained, on either side."
+
+In the portico of the church is a statue of Benedict XIII. (Pietro
+Orsini, 1724). The west door has a rich border of mosaic. The church has
+been so much modernised as to retain no appearance of antiquity. The
+fine Opus-Alexandrinum pavement is preserved. In the floor is the
+incised gothic monument of Lupi di Olmeto, General of the Hieronymites
+(ob. 1433). Left of the entrance is a shrine of S. Alessio, with his
+figure sleeping under the staircase--part of the actual wooden stairs
+being enclosed in a glass case over his head. Not far from this is the
+ancient well of his father's house. In a chapel which opens out of a
+passage leading to the sacristy is the fine tomb of Cardinal Guido di
+Balneo, of the time of Leo X. He is represented sitting, with one hand
+resting on the ground--the delicate execution of his lace in marble is
+much admired. The mosaic roof of this chapel was burst open by a
+cannon-ball during the French bombardment of 1849, but the figure was
+uninjured. The baldacchino (well known from Macpherson's photographs) is
+remarkable for its perfect proportions. Behind, in the tribune, are the
+inlaid mosaic pillars of a gothic tabernacle. No one should omit to
+descend into the _Crypt of S. Alessio_, which is an early church,
+supported on stunted pillars, and containing a marble episcopal chair,
+green with age. Here the pope used to meet the early conclaves of the
+Church in times of persecution. The pillar under the altar is shown as
+that to which St. Sebastian was bound when he was shot with the arrows.
+
+The cloister of the convent, from which ladies are excluded, blooms with
+orange and lemon trees. There are only six Hieronymite brethren here
+now. The convent was at one time purchased by the ex-king Ferdinand of
+Spain, who intended turning it into a villa for himself.
+
+A short distance beyond S. Alessio is a sort of little square, adorned
+with trophied memorials of the knights of Malta, and occupying the site
+of the laurel grove (Armilustrum) which contained the tomb of Tatius.
+Here is the entrance of the Priorato garden, where is the famous _View
+of St. Peter's through the Keyhole_, admired by crowds of people on
+Ash-Wednesday, when the "stazione" is held at the neighbouring churches.
+Entering the garden (which can always be visited) we find ourselves in a
+beautiful avenue of old bay-trees framing the distant St. Peter's. A
+terrace overhanging the Tiber has an enchanting view over the river and
+town. In the garden is an old pepper-tree, and in a little court a
+picturesque palm-tree and well. From hence we can enter the church,
+sometimes called _S. Basilio_, sometimes _Sta. Maria Aventina_, an
+ancient building modernized by Cardinal Rezzonico in 1765, from the very
+indifferent designs of Piranesi. It contains an interesting collection
+of tombs, most of them belonging to the Knights of Malta; that of Bishop
+Spinelli is an ancient marble sarcophagus, with a relief of Minerva and
+the Muses. A richly sculptured ancient altar contains relics of saints
+found beneath the pavement of the church.
+
+The Priorato garden, so beautiful and attractive in itself, has an
+additional interest as that in which the famous Hildebrand (Gregory
+VII., 1073--80) was brought up as a boy, under the care of his uncle,
+who was abbot of the adjoining monastery. A massive cornice in these
+grounds is one of the few architectural fragments of ancient Rome
+existing on the Aventine. It may perhaps have belonged to the smaller
+temple of Diana in which Caius Gracchus took refuge, and in escaping
+from which, down the steep hillside, he sprained his ankle, and so was
+taken by his pursuers. Some buried houses were discovered and some
+precious vases brought to light, when Urban VIII. built the stately
+buttress walls which now support the hillside beyond the Priorato.
+
+The cliff below these convents is the supposed site of the cave of the
+giant Cacus, described by Virgil.
+
+    "At specus et Caci detecta apparuit ingens
+    Regia, et umbrosæ penitus patuere cavernæ;
+    Non secus, ac si quâ penitus vi terra dehiscens
+    Infernas reseret sedes, et regna recludat
+    Pallida, dîs invisa; superque immane barathrum
+    Cernatur, trepidentque immisso lumine manes."
+
+    _Æneid_, lib. viii.
+
+Hercules brought the oxen of Geryon to pasture in the valley between the
+Aventine and Palatine. Cacus issuing from his cave while their owner was
+asleep, carried off four of the bulls, dragging them up the steep side
+of the hill by their tails, that Hercules might be deceived by their
+foot-prints being reversed. Then he concealed them in his cavern, and
+barred the entrance with a rock. Hercules sought the stolen oxen
+everywhere, and when he could not find them, he was going away with the
+remainder. But as he drove them along the valley near the Tiber one of
+his oxen lowed, and when the stolen oxen in the cave heard that, they
+answered; and Hercules, after rushing three times round the Aventine
+boiling with fury, shattered the stone which guarded the entrance of the
+cave with a mass of rock, and, though the giant vomited forth smoke and
+flames against him, he strangled him in his arms. Thus runs the legend,
+which is explained by Ampère.
+
+     "Cacus habite une caverne de l'Aventin, montagne en tout temps mal
+     famée, montagne anciennement hérissée de rochers et couverte de
+     forêts, dont la forêt Noevia, longtemps elle-même un repaire de
+     bandits, était une dépendance et fut un reste qui subsista dans
+     les temps historiques. Ce Cacus était sans doute un brigand
+     célèbre, dangereux pour les pâtres du voisinage dont il volait les
+     troupeaux quand ils allaient paître dans les prés situés au bord du
+     Tibre et boire l'eau du fleuve. Les hauts faits de Cacus lui
+     avaient donné cette célébrité qui, parmi les paysans romains,
+     s'attache encore à ses pareils, et surtout le stratagème employé
+     par lui probablement plus d'une fois pour dérouter les bouviers des
+     environs, en emmenant les animaux qu'il dérobait, à manière de
+     cacher la direction de leurs pas. La caverne du bandit avait été
+     découverte et forcée par quelque pâtre courageux, qui y avait
+     pénétré vaillamment, malgré la terreur que ce lieu souterrain et
+     formidable inspirait, y avait surpris le voleur et l'avait
+     étranglé.
+
+     "Tel était, je crois, le récit primitif où il n'était pas plus
+     question d'Hercule que de Vulcain, et dans lequel Cacus n'était pas
+     mis à mort par un demi-dieu, mais par un certain Recaranus, pâtre
+     vigoureux et de grande taille. A ces récits de bergers, qui
+     allaient toujours exagérant les horreurs de l'antre de Cacus et la
+     résistance désespérée de celui-ci, vinrent se mêler peu à peu des
+     circonstances merveilleuses."--_Hist. Rom._ i. 170.
+
+We must retrace our steps, as far as the summit of the hill towards the
+Palatine, and then turn to the right in order to reach the ugly
+obscure-looking _Church of Sta. Prisca_, founded by Pope Eutychianus in
+A.D. 280, but entirely modernised by Cardinal Giustiniani from designs
+of Carlo Lombardi, who encased its fine granite columns in miserable
+stucco pilasters. Over the high altar is a picture by _Passignano_ of
+the baptism of the saint, which is said to have taken place in the
+ancient crypt beneath the church, where an inverted Corinthian
+capital,--a relic of the temple of Diana which once occupied this
+site,--is shown as the font in which Sta. Prisca was baptized by St.
+Peter.
+
+Opening from the right aisle is a kind of terraced loggia with a
+peculiar and beautiful view. In the adjoining vineyard are three arches
+of an aqueduct.
+
+     "According to the old tradition, this church stands on the site of
+     the house of Aquila and Priscilla, where St. Peter lodged when at
+     Rome, and who are the same mentioned by St. Paul as tent-makers;
+     and here is shown the font, from which, according to the same
+     tradition, St. Peter baptized the first Roman converts to
+     Christianity. The altar-piece represents the baptism of Sta.
+     Prisca, whose remains being afterwards placed in the church, it has
+     since borne her name. According to the legend, she was a Roman
+     virgin of illustrious birth, who, at the age of thirteen, was
+     exposed in the amphitheatre. A fierce lion was let loose upon her,
+     but her youth and innocence disarmed the fury of the savage beast,
+     which, instead of tearing her to pieces, humbly licked her
+     feet;--to the great consolation of Christians, and the confusion of
+     idolaters. Being led back to prison, she was there beheaded.
+     Sometimes she is represented with a lion, sometimes with an eagle,
+     because it is related that an eagle watched by her body till it was
+     laid in the grave; for thus, says the story, was virgin innocence
+     honoured by kingly bird as well as by kingly beast."--_Mrs.
+     Jameson._
+
+Opposite the door of this church is the entrance of the _Vigna dei
+Gesuiti_, a wild and beautiful vineyard occupying the greater part of
+this deserted hill, and extending as far as the Porta S. Paolo and the
+pyramid of Caius Cestius. Several farm-houses are scattered amongst the
+vines and fruit trees. There are beautiful views towards the Alban
+mountains, and to the Pseudo-Aventine with its fortress-like convents.
+The ground is littered with fragments of marbles and alabaster, which
+lie unheeded among the vegetables, relics of unknown edifices which once
+existed here. Just where the path in the vineyard descends a slight
+declivity towards S. Paolo, are the finest existing remains of the
+_Walls of Servius Tullius_,[190] formed of large quadrilateral blocks of
+tufa, laid alternately long and cross-ways, as in the Etruscan
+buildings. The spot is beautiful, and overgrown by a luxuriance of wild
+mignonette and other flowers in the late spring.
+
+Descending to the valley beneath Sta. Prisca, and crossing the lane
+which leads from the Via Appia to the Porta S. Paolo, we reach, on the
+side of the Pseudo-Aventine, the _Church of S. Sabba_, which is supposed
+to mark the site of the Porta Randusculana of the walls of Servius
+Tullius. Its position is very striking, and its portico, built in A.D.
+1200, is picturesque and curious.
+
+This church is of unknown origin, but is known to have existed in the
+time of St. Gregory the Great, and to have been one of the fourteen
+privileged abbacies of Rome. Its patron saint was St. Sabbas, an abbot
+of Cappadocia, who died at Jerusalem in A.D. 532.
+
+     "The record of the artist Jacobus dei Cosmati, dated the third year
+     of Innocent III. (1205), on the lintel of the mosaic-inlaid
+     doorway, justifies us in classing this church among monuments of
+     the thirteenth century. From its origin a Greek monastery, it was
+     assigned by Lucius II., in 1141, to the Benedictines of the Cluny
+     rule. An epigraph near the sacristy mentions a rebuilding either of
+     the cloisters or church, in 1325, by an abbot Joannes; and in 1465
+     the roof was renewed in woodwork by a cardinal, the nephew of Pius
+     II.
+
+     "In 1512 the Cistercians of Clairvaux were located here by Julius
+     II.; and some years later these buildings were given to the
+     Germanic-Hungarian College. Amidst gardens and vineyards,
+     approached by a solitary lane between hedgerows, this now deserted
+     sanctuary has a certain affecting character in its forlornness.
+     Save on Thursdays, when the German students are brought hither by
+     their Jesuit professors to enliven the solitude by their sports and
+     converse, we might never succeed in finding entrance to this quiet
+     retreat of the monks of old.
+
+     "Within the arched porch, through which we pass into an outer
+     court, we read an inscription telling that here stood the house and
+     oratory (called _cella nova_) of Sta. Sylvia, mother of St. Gregory
+     the Great, whence the pious matron used daily to send a porridge of
+     legumes to her son, while he inhabited his monastery on the Clivus
+     Scauri, or northern ascent of the Coelian. Within that court
+     formerly stood the cloistral buildings, of which little now
+     remains. The façade is remarkable for its atrium in two stories:
+     the upper with a pillared arcade, probably of the fifteenth
+     century; the lower formerly supported by six porphyry columns,
+     removed by Pius VI. to adorn the Vatican library, where they still
+     stand. The porphyry statuettes of two emperors embracing, supposed
+     either an emblem of the concord between the East and West, or the
+     intended portraits of the co-reigning Constantine II. and
+     Constans--a curious example of sculpture in its deep decline, and
+     probably imported by Greek monks from Constantinople--project from
+     two of those ancient columns."--_Hemans' Mediæval Art._
+
+The interior of St. Sabba is in the basilica form. It retains some
+fragments of inlaid pavements, some handsome inlaid marble panels on
+either side of the high altar, and an ancient sarcophagus. The tribune
+has rude paintings of the fourteenth century--the Saviour between St.
+Andrew and St. Sabbas the Abbot; and below the Crucifixion, the Madonna
+and the twelve Apostles. Beneath the tribune is a crypt,--and over its
+altar a beautifully ornamented disk with a Greek cross in the centre.
+
+Behind St. Sabbas is another delightful vineyard, but it is difficult to
+gain admittance. Here Flaminius Vacca describes the discovery of a
+mysterious chamber without door or window, whose pavement was of agate
+and cornelian, and whose walls were plated with gilt copper; but of this
+nothing remains.[191]
+
+To reach the remaining church of the Aventine, we have to turn to the
+Via Appia, and then follow the lane which leads up the hillside from the
+Baths of Caracalla to the _Church of Sta. Balbina_, whose picturesque
+red brick tower forms so conspicuous a feature, as seen against the long
+soft lines of the flat Campagna, in so many Roman views. It was erected
+in memory of Sta. Balbina, a virgin martyr (buried in Sta. Maria in
+Domenica), who suffered under Hadrian, A.D. 132. It contains the remains
+of an altar erected by Cardinal Barbo, in the old basilica of St.
+Peter's, a splendid ancient throne of marble inlaid with mosaics, and a
+fine tomb of Stefano Sordi, supporting a recumbent figure, and adorned
+with mosaics by one of the Cosmati.
+
+Adjoining this church Monsignor de Mérode established a house of
+correction for youthful offenders, to avert the moral result of exposing
+them to communication with other prisoners.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+THE VIA APPIA.
+
+     The Porta Capena--Baths of Caracalla--Vigna Guidi--SS. Nereo ed
+     Achilleo--SS. Sisto e Domenico--S. Cesareo (S. Giovanni in Oleo--S.
+     Giovanni in Porta Latina)--Columbarium of the Freedmen of
+     Octavia--Tomb of the Scipios--Columbarium of the Vigna Codini--Arch
+     of Drusus--Porta S. Sebastiano--Tombs of Geta and Priscilla--Church
+     of Domine Quo Vadis (Vigna Marancia)--Catacombs of S. Calixtus, of
+     S. Pretextatus, of the Jews, and SS. Nereo ed Achilleo--(Temple of
+     Bacchus, _i.e._ S. Urbano--Grotto of Egeria--Temple of Divus
+     Rediculus)--Basilica and Catacombs of S. Sebastiano--Circus of
+     Maxentius--Temple of Romulus, son of Maxentius--Tomb of Cecilia
+     Metella--Castle of the Caetani--Tombs of the Via Appia--Sta. Maria
+     Nuova--Roma Vecchia--Casale Rotondo--Tor di Selce, &c.
+
+
+The _Via Appia_, called Regina Viarum by Statius, was begun B.C. 312, by
+the Censor Appius Claudius the Blind, "the most illustrious of the great
+Sabine and Patrician race, of whom he was the most remarkable
+representative." It was paved throughout, and during the first part of
+its course served as a kind of patrician cemetery, being bordered by a
+magnificent avenue of family tombs. It began at the Porta Capena, itself
+crossed by the Claudian aqueduct, which was due to the same great
+benefactor,--
+
+    "Substitit ad veteres arcus madidamque Capenam,"
+
+and was carried by Claudius across the Pontine Marshes as far as Capua,
+but afterwards extended to Brundusium.
+
+The site of the Porta Capena, so important as marking the commencement
+of the Appian Way, was long a disputed subject. The Roman antiquaries
+maintained that it was outside the present Walls, basing their opinion
+on the statement of St. Gregory, that the river Almo was in that Regio,
+and considering the Almo identical with a small stream which is crossed
+in the hollow about half a mile beyond the Porta S. Sebastiano, and
+which passes through the Valle Caffarelle, and falls into the Tiber near
+S. Paolo. This stream, however, which rises at the foot of the Alban
+Hills below the lake, divides into two parts about six miles from Rome,
+and its smaller division, after flowing close to the Porta San Giovanni,
+recedes again into the country, enters Rome near the Porta Metronia, a
+little behind the Church of S. Sisto, and passing through the Circus
+Maximus, falls into the Tiber at the Pulchrum Littus, below the temple
+of Vesta. Close to the point where this, the smaller branch of the Almo,
+crosses the Via San Sebastiano, Mr. J. H. Parker, in 1868--69,
+discovered some remains, on the original line of walls, which he has
+identified, beyond doubt, as those of the _Porta Capena_, whose position
+had been already proved by Ampère and other authorities.
+
+Close to the Porta Capena stood a large group of historical buildings,
+of which no trace remains. On the right of the gate was the temple of
+Mars:
+
+    "Lux eadem Marti festa est; quem prospicit extra
+    Appositum Tectæ Porta Capena viæ."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ vi. 191.
+
+It is probably in allusion to this temple that Propertius says:
+
+    "Armaque quum tulero portæ votiva Capenæ,
+    Subscribam, salvo grata puella viro."
+
+    _Prop._ iv. _Eleg._ 3.
+
+Martial alludes to a little temple of Hercules near this:
+
+    "Capena grandi porta qua pluit gutta,
+    Phrygiæque Matris Almo qua lavat ferrum,
+    Horatiorum qua viret sacer campus,
+    Et qua pusilli fervet Herculis fanum."
+
+    _Mart._ iii. _Ep._ 47.
+
+Near the gate also stood the tomb of the murdered sister of the
+Horatii,[192] with the temples of Honour and Virtue, vowed by Marcellus
+and dedicated by his son,[193] and a fountain, dedicated to Mercury:
+
+    "Est aqua Mercurii portæ vicina Capenæ;
+      Si juvat expertis credere, numen habet.
+    Huc venit incinctus tunicas mercator, et urna
+      Purus suffita, quam ferat, haurit aquam.
+    Uda fit hinc laurus: lauro sparguntur ab uda
+      Omnia, quæ dominos sunt habitura novos."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ v. 673.
+
+It was at the Porta Capena that the survivor of the Horatii met his
+sister.
+
+     "Horatius went home at the head of the army, bearing his triple
+     spoils. But as they were drawing near to the Capenian gate, his
+     sister came out to meet him. Now she had been betrothed in marriage
+     to one of the Curiatii, and his cloak, which she had wrought with
+     her own hands, was borne on the shoulders of her brother; and she
+     knew it, and cried aloud, and wept for him she had loved. At the
+     sight of her tears Horatius was so wrath that he drew his sword,
+     and stabbed his sister to the heart; and he said, 'So perish the
+     Roman maiden who shall weep for her country's enemy!'"--_Arnold's
+     Hist. of Rome_, i. 16.
+
+Among the many other historical scenes with which the Porta Capena is
+connected, we may remember that it was here that Cicero was received in
+triumph by the senate and people of Rome, upon his return from
+banishment B.C. 57.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Two roads lead to the Via S. Sebastiano, one the Via S. Gregorio, which
+comes from the Coliseum beneath the arch of Constantine; the other, the
+street which comes from the Ghetto, through the Circus Maximus, between
+the Palatine and Aventine.
+
+The first gate on the left, after the junction of these roads, is that
+of the vineyard of the monks of S. Gregorio, in which the site of the
+Porta Capena was found. The remains discovered have been reburied, owing
+to the indifference or jealousy of the government; but the vineyard is
+worth entering on account of the picturesque view it possesses of the
+Palace of the Cæsars.
+
+On the right, a lane leads up the Pseudo-Aventine to the Church of Sta.
+Balbina, described Chap. VIII.
+
+On the left, where the Via Appia crosses the brook of the Almo, now
+called Maranna, the Via di San Sisto Vecchio leads to the back of the
+Coelian behind S. Stefano Rotondo. Here, in the hollow, in the grounds
+of the Villa Mattei, under some picturesque farm-buildings, is a spring
+which modern archæology has determined to be the true _Fountain of
+Egeria_, where Numa Pompilius is described as having his mysterious
+meetings with the nymph Egeria. The locality of this fountain was
+verified when that of the Porta Capena was ascertained, as it was
+certain that it was in the immediate neighbourhood of that gate, from a
+passage in the 3d Satire of Juvenal, which describes, that when he was
+waiting at the Porta Capena with Umbritius while the waggon was loading
+for his departure to Cumæ, they rambled into the valley of Egeria, and
+Umbritius said, after speaking of his motives for leaving Rome, "I could
+add other reasons to these, but my beasts summon me to move on, and the
+sun is setting. I must be going, for the muleteer has long been
+summoning me by the cracking of his whip."
+
+To this valley the oppressed race of the Jews was confined by Domitian,
+their furniture consisting of a basket and a wisp of hay:
+
+    "Nunc sacri fontis nemus et delubra locantur
+    Judæis, quorum cophinus foenumque supellex."
+
+    _Juvenal, Sat._ iii. 13.
+
+On the right, are the _Baths of Caracalla_, the largest mass of ruins in
+Rome, except the Coliseum; consisting for the most part of huge
+shapeless walls of red and orange-coloured brickwork, framing vast
+strips of blue sky, and tufted with shrubs and flowers. These baths,
+which could accommodate 1600 bathers at once, were begun in A.D. 212, by
+Caracalla, continued by Heliogabalus, and finished under Alexander
+Severus. They covered a space of 2,625,000 square yards--a size which
+made Ammianus Marcellinus say that the Roman baths were like
+provinces--and they were supplied with water by the Antonine Aqueduct,
+which was brought hither for that especial purpose from the Claudian,
+over the Arch of Drusus.
+
+Antiquaries have amused themselves by identifying different chambers, to
+which, with considerable uncertainty, the names of Calidarium,
+Laconicum, Tepidarium, Frigidarium, &c., have been affixed.
+
+The habits of luxury and inertion which were introduced with the
+magnificent baths of the emperors were among the principal causes of the
+decline and fall of Rome. Thousands of the Roman youth frittered away
+their hours in these magnificent halls, which were provided with
+everything which could gratify the senses. Poets were wont to recite
+their verses to those who were reclining in the baths.
+
+                         ----"In medio qui
+    Scripta foro recitent, sunt multi,--quique lavantes:
+    Suave locus voci resonat conclusus."
+
+    _Horace, Sat._ i. 4.
+
+     "These _Thermæ_ of Caracalla, which were one mile in circumference,
+     and open at stated hours for the indiscriminate service of the
+     senators and the people, contained above sixteen hundred seats of
+     marble. The walls of the lofty apartments were covered with curious
+     mosaics that imitated the art of the pencil in elegance of design
+     and in the variety of their colours. The Egyptian granite was
+     beautifully encrusted with the precious green marble of Numidia.
+     The perpetual stream of hot water was poured into the capacious
+     basons through so many wide mouths of bright and massy silver; and
+     the meanest Roman could purchase, with a small copper coin, the
+     daily enjoyment of a scene of pomp and luxury which might excite
+     the envy of the kings of Asia. From these stately palaces issued
+     forth a swarm of dirty and ragged plebeians, without shoes and
+     without mantle; who loitered away whole days in the street or
+     Forum, to hear news and to hold disputes; who dissipated, in
+     extravagant gaming, the miserable pittance of their wives and
+     children; and spent the hours of the night in the indulgence of
+     gross and vulgar sensuality."--_Gibbon._
+
+In the first great hall was found, in 1824, the immense mosaic pavement
+of the pugilists, now in the Lateran museum. Endless works of art have
+been discovered here from time to time, among them the best of the
+Farnese collection of statues,--the Bull, the Hercules, and the
+Flora,--which were dug up in 1534, when Paul III. carried off all the
+still remaining marble decorations of the baths to use for the Farnese
+Palace. The last of the pillars to be removed from hence is that which
+supports the statue of Justice in the Piazza Sta. Trinità at Florence.
+
+A winding stair leads to the top of the walls, which are worth
+ascending, as well for the idea which you there receive of the vast size
+of the ruins, as for the lovely views of the Campagna, which are
+obtained between the bushes of lentiscus and phillyrea with which they
+are fringed. It was seated on these walls that Shelley wrote his
+"Prometheus Unbound."
+
+     "This poem was chiefly written upon the mountainous ruins of the
+     baths of Caracalla, among the flowery glades and thickets of
+     odoriferous blossoming trees which are extended in ever-winding
+     labyrinths upon its immense platforms and dizzy arches suspended in
+     the air. The bright blue sky of Rome, and the effect of the
+     vigorous awakening spring in that divinest climate, and the new
+     life with which it drenches the spirits even to intoxication, were
+     the inspiration of the drama."--_Preface to the Prometheus._
+
+     "Maintenant les murailles sont nues, sauf quelques fragments de
+     chapiteaux oubliés par la destruction; mais elles conservent ce que
+     seules des mains de géant pourraient leur ôter, leur masse
+     écrasante, la grandeur de leurs aspects, la sublimité de leurs
+     ruines. On ne regrette rien quand on contemple ces énormes et
+     pittoresque débris, baignés à midi par une ardente lumière ou se
+     remplissant d'ombres à la tombée de la nuit, s'élançant, à une
+     immense hauteur vers un ciel éblouissant, ou se dressant, mornes et
+     mélancoliques, sous un ciel grisâtre,--ou bien, lorsque, montant
+     sur la plate-forme inégale, crevassée, couverte d'arbustes et
+     tapissée de gazon, on voit, comme du haut d'une colline, d'un côté
+     se dérouler la campagne romaine et le merveilleux horizon de
+     montagnes qui la termine, de l'autre apparaître, ainsi qu'une
+     montagne de plus, le dôme de Saint-Pierre, la seule des oeuvres
+     d'homme qui ait quelque chose de la grandeur des oeuvres de
+     Dieu."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 286.
+
+The name of the lane which leads to the baths (_Via all' Antoniana_)
+recalls the fact that, "with a vanity which seems like mockery,
+Caracalla dared to bear the name of Antoninus," which was always dear
+to the Roman people.
+
+Passing under the wall of the government-garden for raising shrubs for
+the public walks, a door on the left of the Via Appia, with a sculptured
+marble frieze above it, is that of Guidi, the antiquity vendor, who has
+a small museum here of splendid fragments of marble and alabaster for
+sale. Opposite is the Vigna of Signor Guidi, who has unearthed a
+splendid mosaic pavement of Tritons riding on dolphins, and who has here
+also a collection of antique fragments to be disposed of.
+
+On the right, is _SS. Nereo ed Achilleo_, a most interesting little
+church. The tradition runs that St. Peter, going to execution, let drop
+here one of the bandages of his wounds, and that the spot was marked by
+the early Christians with an oratory, which bore the name of Fasciola.
+Nereus and Achilles, eunuchs in the service of Clemens Flavius and
+Flavia Domitilla (members of the imperial family exiled to Pontia under
+Diocletian), having suffered martyrdom at Terracina, their bodies were
+transported here in 524 by John I., when the oratory was enlarged into a
+church, which was restored under Leo III., in 795. The church was
+rebuilt in the sixteenth century, by Cardinal Baronius, who took his
+title from hence. In his work he desired that the ancient basilica
+character should be carefully carried out, and all the ancient ornaments
+of the church were preserved and re-erected. His anxiety that his
+successors should not meddle with or injure these objects of antiquity
+is shown by, the inscription on a marble slab in the tribune:
+
+     "Presbyter, Card. Successor quisquis fueris, rogo te, per gloriam
+     Dei, et per merita horum martyrum, nihil demito, nihil minuito, nec
+     mutato; restitutam antiquitatem pie servato; sic Deus martyrum
+     suorum precibus semper adjuvet!"
+
+The chancel is raised and surrounded by an inlaid marble screen. Instead
+of ambones there are two plain marble reading-desks for the epistle and
+gospel. The altar is inlaid, and has "transennæ," or a marble grating,
+through which the tomb of the saints Nereus and Achilles may be seen,
+and through which the faithful might pass their handkerchiefs to touch
+it. Behind, in the semicircular choir, is an ancient episcopal throne,
+supported by lions, and ending in a gothic gable. Upon it part of the
+twenty-eighth homily of St. Gregory was engraved by Baronius, under the
+impression that it was delivered thence,--though it was really first
+read in the catacomb, whence the bodies of the saints were not yet
+removed. All these decorations are of the restoration under Leo III., in
+the eighth century. Of the same period are the mosaics on the arch of
+the tribune (partly painted over in later times), representing, in the
+centre, the Transfiguration (the earliest instance of the subject being
+treated in art), with the Annunciation on one side, and the Madonna and
+Child attended by angels on the other.
+
+It is worth while remarking that when the relics of Flavia Domitilla
+(who was niece of Vespasian) and of Nereus and Achilles were brought
+hither from the catacomb on the Via Ardeatina, which bears the name of
+the latter, they were first escorted in triumph to the Capitol, and made
+to pass under the imperial arches which bore as inscriptions: "The
+senate and the Roman people to Sta. Flavia Domitilla, for having brought
+more honour to Rome by her death than her illustrious relations by
+their works." ... "To Sta. Flavia Domitilla, and to the Saints Nereus
+and Achilles, the excellent citizens who gained peace for the Christian
+republic at the price of their blood."
+
+Opposite, on the left, is a courtyard leading to the _Church of S.
+Sisto_, with its celebrated convent, long deserted on account of
+malaria.
+
+It was here that St. Dominic first resided in Rome, and collected one
+hundred monks under his rule, before he was removed to Sta. Sabina by
+Honorius III. After he went to the Aventine, it was decided to utilize
+this convent by collecting here the various Dominican nuns, who had been
+living hitherto under very lax discipline, and allowed to leave their
+convents, and reside in their own families. The nuns of Sta. Maria in
+Trastevere resisted the order, and only consented to remove on condition
+of bringing with them a Madonna picture attributed to St. Luke, hoping
+that the Trasteverini would refuse to part with their most cherished
+treasure. St. Dominic obviated the difficulty by going to fetch the
+picture himself at night, attended by two cardinals, and a bare-footed,
+torch-bearing multitude.
+
+     "On Ash-Wednesday, 1218, the abbess and some of her nuns went to
+     take possession of their new monastery, and being in the
+     chapter-house with St. Dominic and Cardinal Stefano di Fossa Nuova,
+     suddenly there came in one tearing his hair, and making great
+     outcries, for the young Lord Napoleon Orsini, nephew of the
+     cardinal, had been thrown from his horse, and killed on the spot.
+     The cardinal fell speechless into the arms of Dominic, and the
+     women and others who were present were filled with grief and
+     horror. They brought the body of the youth into the chapter-house,
+     and laid it before the altar; and Dominic, having prayed, turned to
+     it, saying, 'O adolescens Napoleo, in nomine Domini nostri Jesu
+     Christi tibi dico surge,' and thereupon he arose sound and whole,
+     to the unspeakable wonder of all present."--_Jameson's Monastic
+     Orders._
+
+After being convinced by this miracle of the divine mission of St.
+Dominic, forty nuns settled at S. Sisto, promising never more to cross
+its threshold.[194]
+
+There is very little remaining of the ancient S. Sisto, except the
+campanile, which is of 1500. But the vaulted _Chapter-House_, now
+dedicated to St. Dominic, is well worth visiting. It has recently been
+covered with frescoes by the Padre Besson,--himself a Dominican
+monk,--who received his commission from Father Mullooly, Prior of S.
+Clemente, the Irish Dominican convent, to which S. Sisto is now annexed.
+The three principal frescoes represent three miracles of St. Dominic--in
+each case of raising from the dead. One represents the resuscitation of
+a mason of the new monastery, who had fallen from a scaffold; another,
+that of a child in a wild and beautiful Italian landscape; the third,
+the restoration of Napoleone Orsini on this spot,--the mesmeric
+upspringing of the lifeless youth being most powerfully represented. The
+whole chapel is highly picturesque, and effective in colour. Of two
+inscriptions, one commemorates the raising of Orsini; the other, a
+prophecy of St. Dominic, as to the evil end of two monks who deserted
+their convent.
+
+Just beyond S. Sisto, where the Via della Ferratella branches off on the
+left to the Lateran, stands a small ædiculum, or _Shrine of the Lares_,
+with brick niches for statues.
+
+Further, on the right, standing back from a kind of piazza, adorned with
+an ancient granite column, is the _Church of S. Cesareo_, which already
+existed in the time of St. Gregory the Great, but was modernized under
+Clement VII. (1523--34). Its interior retains many of its ancient
+features. The pulpit is one of the most exquisite specimens of church
+decoration in Rome, and is covered with the most delicate sculpture,
+interspersed with mosaic; the emblems of the Evangelists are introduced
+in the carving of the panels. The high altar is richly encrusted with
+mosaics, probably by the Cosmati family; tiny owls form part of the
+decorations of the capitals of its pillars. Beneath is a "confession,"
+where two angels are drawing curtains over the tomb of the saint. The
+chancel has an inlaid marble screen. In the tribune is an ancient
+episcopal throne, once richly ornamented with mosaics.
+
+In this church St. Sergius was elected to the papal throne, in 687; and
+here, also, an Abbot of SS. Vincenzo ed Anastasio was elected in 1145,
+as Eugenius III., and was immediately afterwards forced by the opposing
+senate to fly to Montecelli, and then to the Abbey of Farfa, where his
+consecration took place.
+
+Part of the palace of the titular cardinal of S. Cesareo remains in the
+adjoining garden, with an interesting loggia of _c._ 1200.
+
+In this neighbourhood was the _Piscina Publica_, which gave a name to
+the twelfth Region of the city. It was used for learning to swim, but
+all trace of it had disappeared before the time of Festus, whose date is
+uncertain, but who lived before the end of the fourth century--
+
+    "In thermas fugio: sonas ad aurem,
+    Piscinam peto: non licet natare."
+
+    _Martial_, iii. _Ep._ 44.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Here a lane turns on the left, towards the ancient _Porta Latina_
+(through which the Via Latina led to Capua), now closed.
+
+In front of the gate is a little chapel, of the sixteenth century,
+called _S. Giovanni in Oleo_, decorated with indifferent frescoes, on
+the spot where St. John is said to have been thrown into a cauldron of
+boiling oil (under Domitian), from which "he came forth as from a
+refreshing bath." It is the suffering in the burning oil which gave St.
+John the palm of a martyr, with which he is often represented in art.
+The festival of "St. John ante Port. Lat." (May 6) is preserved in the
+English Church Calendar.
+
+On the left, is the _Church of S. Giovanni a Porta Latina_, built in
+1190 by Celestine III.
+
+In spite of many modernizations, the last by Cardinal Rasponi in 1685,
+this building retains externally more of its ancient character than most
+Roman churches, in its fine campanile and the old brick walls of the
+nave and apse, decorated with terra-cotta friezes. The portico is
+entered by a narrow arch resting on two granite columns. The
+entrance-door and the altar have the peculiar mosaic ribbon decoration
+of the Cosmati, of 1190. The frescoes are all modern; in the tribune,
+are the deluge and the baptism of Christ,--the type and antitype. Of the
+ten columns, eight are simple and of granite, two are fluted and of
+porta-santa, showing that they were not made for the church, but removed
+from some pagan building--probably from the temple of Ceres and
+Proserpine. Near the entrance is a very picturesque marble _Well_, like
+those so common at Venice and Padua, decorated with an intricate pattern
+of rich carving.
+
+In the opposite vineyard, behind the chapel of the Oleo, very
+picturesquely situated under the Aurelian Wall, is the _Columbarium of
+the Freedmen of Octavia_. A columbarium was a tomb containing a number
+of cinerary urns in niches like pigeon-holes, whence the name. Many
+columbaria were held in common by a great number of persons, and the
+niches could be obtained by purchase or inheritance; in other cases, the
+heads of the great houses possessed whole columbaria for their families
+and their slaves. In the present instance the columbarium is more than
+usually decorated, and, though much smaller, it is far more worth seeing
+than the columbaria which it is the custom to visit immediately upon the
+Appian Way. One of the cippi, above the staircase, is beautifully
+decorated with shells and mosaic. Below, is a chamber, whose vault is
+delicately painted with vines and little Bacchi gathering in the
+vintage. Round the walls are arranged the urns, some of them in the form
+of temples, and very beautifully designed, others merely pots sunk into
+the wall, with conical lids, like pipkins let into a kitchen-range. A
+beautiful vase of lapis-lazuli found here has been transferred to the
+Vatican.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Proceeding along the Via Appia, on the left by a tall cypress (No. 13)
+is the entrance to _the Tomb of the Scipios_, a small catacomb in the
+tufa rock, discovered in 1780, from which the famous sarcophagus of L.
+Scipio Barbatus, and a bust of the poet Ennius,[195] were removed to the
+Vatican by Pius VII.
+
+    "The Scipios' tomb contains no ashes now;
+    The very sepulchres lie tenantless
+    Of their heroic dwellers."
+
+    _Childe Harold._
+
+The contadino at the neighbouring farmhouse provides lights, with which
+one can visit a labyrinth of steep narrow passages, some of which still
+retain inscribed sepulchral slabs. Among the Scipios whose tombs have
+been discovered here were Lucius Scipio Barbatus and his son, the
+conqueror of Corsica; Aula Cornelia wife of Cneius Scipio Hispanis; a
+son of Scipio Africanus; Lucius Cornelius son of Scipio Asiaticus;
+Cornelius Scipio Hispanis and his son Lucius Cornelius. At the further
+end of these passages, and now, like them, subterranean, may be seen the
+pediment and arched entrance of the tomb towards the Via Latina. "It is
+uncertain whether Scipio Africanus was buried at Liternum or in the
+family tomb. In the time of Livy monuments to him were extant in both
+places."[196]
+
+There is a beautiful view towards Rome from the vineyard above the tomb.
+
+A little further on, left (No. 14), is the entrance of the _Vigna
+Codini_ (a private garden with an extortionate custode), containing
+three interesting _Columbaria_. Two of these are large square vaults,
+supported by a central pillar, which, as well as the walls, is
+perforated by niches for urns. The third has three vaulted passages.
+
+We now reach the _Arch of Drusus_. On its summit are the remains of the
+aqueduct by which Caracalla carried water to his baths. The arch once
+supported an equestrian statue of Drusus, two trophies, and a seated
+female figure representing Germany.
+
+The Arch of Drusus was decreed by the senate in honour of the second son
+of the empress Livia, by her first husband, Tiberius Nero. He was father
+of Germanicus and the emperor Claudius, and brother of Tiberius. He died
+during a campaign on the Rhine, B.C. 9, and was brought back to be
+buried by his step-father Augustus in his own mausoleum. His virtues are
+attested in a poem ascribed to Pedo Albinovanus.
+
+     "This arch, 'Marmoreum arcum cum tropæo Appia Via' (Suet. I), is,
+     with the exception of the Pantheon, the most perfect existing
+     monument of Augustan architecture. It is heavy, plain, and narrow,
+     with all the dignified but stern simplicity which belongs to the
+     character of its age."--_Merivale._
+
+     "It is hard for one who loves the very stones of Rome, to pass over
+     all the thoughts which arise in his mind, as he thinks of the great
+     Apostle treading the rude and massive pavement of the Appian Way,
+     and passing under that Arch of Drusus at the Porta S. Sebastiano,
+     toiling up the Capitoline Hill past the Tabularium of the Capitol,
+     dwelling in his hired house in the Via Lata or elsewhere,
+     imprisoned in those painted caves in the Prætorian Camp, and at
+     last pouring out his blood for Christ at the Tre Fontane, on the
+     road to Ostia."--_Dean Alford's Study of the New Testament_, p.
+     335.
+
+_The Porta San Sebastiano_ has two fine semicircular towers of the
+Aurelian wall, resting on a basement of marble blocks, probably
+plundered from the tombs on the Via Appia. Under the arch is a gothic
+inscription relating to the repulse of some unknown invaders.
+
+It was here that the senate and people of Rome received in state the
+last triumphant procession which has entered the city by the Via Appia,
+that of Marc-Antonio Colonna, after the victory of Lepanto in 1571. As
+in the processions of the old Roman generals, the children of the
+conquered prince were forced to adorn the triumph of the victor, who
+rode into Rome attended by all the Roman nobles, "in abito di grande
+formalità,"[197] preceded by the standard of the fleet.
+
+From the gate, the _Clivus Martis_ (crossed by the railway to Civita
+Vecchia) descends into the valley of the Almo, where antiquaries
+formerly placed the Porta Capena. On the hillside stood a Temple of
+Mars, vowed in the Gallic war, and dedicated by T. Quinctius the
+"duumvir sacris faciundis," in B.C. 387. No remains exist of this
+temple. It was "approached from the Via Capena by a portico, which must
+have rivalled in length the celebrated portico at Bologna extending to
+the church of the Madonna di S. Luca."[198] Near this, a temple was
+erected to Tempestas in B.C. 260, by L. Cornelius Scipio, to commemorate
+the narrow escape of his fleet from shipwreck off the coast of
+Sardinia.[199] Near this, also, the poet Terence owned a small estate of
+twenty acres, presented to him by his friend Scipio Emilianus.[200]
+After crossing the brook, we pass between two conspicuous tombs. That on
+the left is the _Tomb of Geta_, son of Septimius Severus, the murdered
+brother of Caracalla; that on the right is the _Tomb of Priscilla_, wife
+of Abascantius, a favourite freedman of Domitian.
+
+    "Est locus, ante urbem, qua primum nascitur ingens
+    Appia, quaque Italo gemitus Almone Cybele
+    Ponit, et Idæos jam non reminiscitur amnes.
+    Hic te Sidonio velatam molliter ostro
+    Eximius conjux (nec enim fumantia busta
+    Clamoremque rogi potuit perferre), beato
+    Composuit, Priscilla, toro."
+
+    _Statius_, lib. v. _Sylv._ i. 222.
+
+Just beyond this, the _Via Ardeatina_ branches off on the right,
+passing, after about two miles, the picturesque _Vigna Marancia_, a
+pleasant spot, with fine old pines and cypresses.
+
+Where the roads divide, is the _Church of Domine Quo Vadis_, containing
+a copy of the celebrated footprint said to have been left here by Our
+Saviour: the original being removed to S. Sebastiano.
+
+     "After the burning of Rome, Nero threw upon the Christians the
+     accusation of having fired the city. This was the origin of the
+     first persecution, in which many perished by terrible and hitherto
+     unheard-of deaths. The Christian converts besought Peter not to
+     expose his life. As he fled along the Appian Way, about two miles
+     from the gates, he was met by a vision of our Saviour travelling
+     towards the city. Struck with amazement, he exclaimed, 'Lord,
+     whither goest thou?' to which the Saviour, looking upon him with a
+     mild sadness, replied, 'I go to Rome to be crucified a second
+     time,' and vanished. Peter, taking this as a sign that he was to
+     submit himself to the sufferings prepared for him, immediately
+     turned back to the city.[201] Michael Angelo's famous statue, now
+     in the Church of Sta. Maria sopra Minerva, is supposed to represent
+     Christ as he appeared to St. Peter on this occasion. A cast or copy
+     of it is in the little church of 'Domine, quo vadis?'
+
+     "It is surprising that this most beautiful, picturesque, and, to my
+     fancy, sublime legend, has been so seldom treated; and never, as it
+     seems to me, in a manner worthy of its capabilities and high
+     significance. It is seldom that a story can be told by two figures,
+     and these two figures placed in such grand and dramatic
+     contrast;--Christ in His serene majesty, and radiant with all the
+     joy of beatitude, yet with an expression of gentle reproach; the
+     Apostle at his feet arrested in his flight, amazed, and yet filled
+     with a trembling joy; and for the background the wide Campagna, or
+     towering walls of imperial Rome."--_Mrs. Jameson._[202]
+
+Beyond the church is a second "Bivium," or cross-ways, where a lane on
+the left leads up the Valle Caffarelle. Here, feeling an uncertainty
+_which_ was the crossing where Our Saviour appeared to St. Peter, the
+English Cardinal Pole erected a second tiny chapel of "Domine Quo
+Vadis," which remains to this day.
+
+On the left, is the _Columbarium of the Freedmen of Augustus and Livia_,
+divided into three chambers, but despoiled of its adornments. Other
+Columbaria near this are assigned to the Volusii, and the Cæcilii.
+
+Over the wall on the left of the Via Appia now hangs in profusion the
+rare yellow-berried ivy. Many curious plants are to be found on these
+old Roman walls. Their commonest parasite, the Pellitory--"_herba
+parietina_," calls to mind the nickname given to the Emperor Trajan in
+derision of his passion for inscribing his name upon the walls of Roman
+buildings which he had merely restored, as if he were their
+founder;[203] a passion in which the popes have since largely
+participated.
+
+We now reach (on the right) the entrance of the _Catacombs of St.
+Calixtus_.
+
+     (The Catacombs (except those at S. Sebastiano) can only be visited
+     in company of a guide. For most of the Catacombs it is necessary to
+     obtain a _permesso_ at the office of the Cardinal-Vicar, 70 Via
+     della Scrofa, before 12 A.M.; upon which a day (generally Sunday)
+     is fixed, which must be adhered to. The Catacombs of St. Calixtus
+     are sometimes superficially shown without a special _permesso_. It
+     may be well for the visitor to provide himself with
+     tapers--_cerini._)
+
+All descriptions of dangers attending a visit to the Catacombs, if
+accompanied by a guide, and provided with "cerini," are quite imaginary.
+Neither does the visitor ever suffer from cold; the temperature of the
+Catacombs is mild and warm; the vaults are almost always dry, and the
+air pure.
+
+     "The Roman Catacombs--a name consecrated by long usage, but having
+     no etymological meaning, and not a very determinate geographical
+     one--are a vast labyrinth of galleries excavated in the bowels of
+     the earth in the hills around the Eternal City; not in the hills on
+     which the city itself was built, but in those beyond the walls.
+     Their extent is enormous; not as to the amount of superficial soil
+     which they underlie, for they rarely, if ever, pass beyond the
+     third mile-stone from the city, but in the actual length of their
+     galleries; for these are often excavated on various levels, or
+     _piani_, three, four, or even five--one above the other; and they
+     cross and recross one another, sometimes at short intervals, on
+     each of these levels; so that, on the whole, there are certainly
+     not less than 350 miles of them; that is to say, if stretched out
+     in one continuous line, they would extend the whole length of Italy
+     itself. The galleries are from two to four feet in width, and vary
+     in height according to the nature of the rock in which they are
+     dug. The walls on both sides are pierced with horizontal niches,
+     like shelves in a bookcase or berths in a steamer, and every niche
+     once contained one or more dead bodies. At various intervals this
+     succession of shelves is interrupted for a moment, that room may be
+     made for a doorway opening into a small chamber; and the walls of
+     these chambers are generally pierced with graves in the same way as
+     the galleries.
+
+     "These vast excavations once formed the ancient Christian
+     cemeteries of Rome; they were begun in apostolic times, and
+     continued to be used as burial-places of the faithful till the
+     capture of the city by Alaric in the year 410. In the third
+     century, the Roman Church numbered twenty-five or twenty-six of
+     them, corresponding to the number of her titles, or parishes,
+     within the city; and besides these, there are about twenty others,
+     of smaller dimensions, isolated monuments of special martyrs, or
+     belonging to this or that private family. Originally they all
+     belonged to private families or individuals, the villas or gardens
+     in which they were dug being the property of wealthy citizens who
+     had embraced the faith of Christ, and devoted of their substance to
+     His service. Hence their most ancient titles were taken merely from
+     the names of their lawful owners, many of which still survive.
+     Lucina, for example, who lived in the days of the Apostles, and
+     others of the same family, or at least of the same name, who lived
+     at various periods in the next two centuries; Priscilla, also a
+     contemporary of the Apostles; Flavia Domitilla, niece of Vespasian;
+     Commodilla, whose property lay on the Via Ostiensis; Cyriaca, on
+     the Via Tiburtina; Pretextatus, on the Via Appia; Pontiano, on the
+     Via Portuensis; and the Jordani, Maximus and Thraso, all on the Via
+     Salaria Nova. These names are still attached to the various
+     catacombs, because they were originally begun upon the land of
+     those who bore them. Other catacombs are known by the names of
+     those who presided over their formation, as that of St. Calixtus,
+     on the Via Appia; or St. Mark, on the Via Ardeatina; or of the
+     principal martyrs who were buried in them, as SS. Hermes, Basilla,
+     Protus, and Hyacinthus, on the Via Salaria Vetus; or, lastly, by
+     some peculiarity of their position, as _ad Catacumbas_ on the Via
+     Appia, and _ad duas Lauros_ on the Via Labicana.
+
+     "It has always been agreed among men of learning who have had an
+     opportunity of examining these excavations, that they were used
+     exclusively by the Christians as places of burial and of holding
+     religious assemblies. Modern research has now placed it beyond a
+     doubt, that they were also originally designed for this purpose and
+     for no other: that they were not deserted sand-pits (_arenariæ_) or
+     quarries, adapted to Christian uses, but a development, with
+     important modifications, of a form of sepulchre not altogether
+     unknown even among the heathen families of Rome, and in common use
+     among the Jews both in Rome and elsewhere.
+
+     "At first, the work of making the Catacombs was done openly,
+     without let or hindrance, by the Christians; the entrances to them
+     were public on the high-road or on the hill-side, and the galleries
+     and chambers were freely decorated with paintings of a sacred
+     character. But early in the third century, it became necessary to
+     withdraw them as much as possible from the public eye; new and
+     often difficult entrances were now effected in the recesses of
+     deserted _arenariæ_, and even the liberty of Christian art was
+     cramped and fettered, lest what was holy should fall under the
+     profane gaze of the unbaptized.
+
+     "Each of these burial-places was called in ancient times either
+     _hypogæum_, i. e. generically, a subterranean place, or
+     _coemeterium_, a sleeping-place, a new name of Christian origin
+     which the pagans could only repeat, probably without understanding;
+     sometimes also _martyrium_, or _confessio_ (its Latin equivalent),
+     to signify that it was the burial-place of martyrs or confessors of
+     the faith. An ordinary grave was called _locus_ or _loculus_, if it
+     contained a single body; or _bisomum_, _trisomum_, or
+     _quadrisomum_, if it contained two, three, or four. The graves were
+     dug by _fossores_, and burial in them was called _depositio_. The
+     galleries do not seem to have had any specific name; but the
+     chambers were called _cubicula_. In most of these chambers, and
+     sometimes also in the galleries themselves, one or more tombs are
+     to be seen of a more elaborate kind; a long oblong _chasse_, like a
+     sarcophagus, either hollowed out in the rock or built up of
+     masonry, and closed by a heavy slab of marble lying horizontally on
+     the top. The niche over tombs of this kind was of the same length
+     as the grave, and generally vaulted in a semicircular form, whence
+     they were called _arcosolia_. Sometimes, however, the niche
+     retained the rectangular form, in which case there was no special
+     name for it, but for distinction's sake we may be allowed to call
+     it a table-tomb. Those of the _arcosolia_, which were also the tomb
+     of martyrs, were used on the anniversaries of their deaths
+     (_Natalitia_, or birthdays) as altars whereon the holy mysteries
+     were celebrated; hence, whilst some of the _cubicula_ were only
+     family-vaults, others were chapels, or places of public assembly.
+     It is probable that the holy mysteries were celebrated also in the
+     private vaults, on the anniversaries of the deaths of their
+     occupants; and each one was sufficiently large in itself for use on
+     these private occasions; but in order that as many as possible
+     might assist at the public celebrations, two, three, or even four
+     of the _cubicula_ were often made close together, all receiving
+     light and air through one shaft or air-hole (_luminare_), pierced
+     through the superincumbent soil up to the open air. In this way as
+     many as a hundred persons might be collected in some parts of the
+     catacombs to assist at the same act of public worship; whilst a
+     still larger number might have been dispersed in the _cubicula_ of
+     neighbouring galleries, and received there the bread of life
+     brought to them by the assistant priests and deacons. Indications
+     of this arrangement are not only to be found in ancient
+     ecclesiastical writings; they may still be seen in the very walls
+     of the catacombs themselves, episcopal chairs, chairs for the
+     presiding deacon or deaconess, and benches for the faithful, having
+     formed part of the original design when the chambers were hewn out
+     of the living rock, and still remaining where they were first
+     made."--_Roma Sotterranea, Northcote and Brownlow._
+
+     "To our classic associations, Rome was still, under Trajan and the
+     Antonines, the city of the Cæsars, the metropolis of pagan
+     idolatry--in the pages of her poets and historians we still linger
+     among the triumphs of the Capitol, the shows of the Coliseum; or if
+     we read of a Christian being dragged before the tribunal, or
+     exposed to the beasts, we think of him as one of a scattered
+     community, few in number, spiritless in action, and politically
+     insignificant. But all this while there was living beneath the
+     visible an invisible Rome--a population unheeded,
+     unreckoned--thought of vaguely, vaguely spoken of, and with the
+     familiarity and indifference that men feel who live on a
+     volcano--yet a population strong-hearted, of quick impulses, nerved
+     alike to suffer or to die, and in number, resolution, and physical
+     force sufficient to have hurled their oppressors from the throne of
+     the world, had they not deemed it their duty to kiss the rod, to
+     love their enemies, to bless those that cursed them, and to submit,
+     for their Redeemer's sake, to the 'powers that be.' Here, in these
+     'dens and caves of the earth,' they lived; here they died--a
+     'spectacle' in their lifetime 'to men and angels,' and in their
+     death a 'triumph' to mankind--a triumph of which the echoes still
+     float around the walls of Rome, and over the desolate Campagna,
+     while those that once thrilled the Capitol are silenced, and the
+     walls that returned them have long since crumbled into
+     dust."--_Lord Lindsay' s Christian Art_, i. 4.
+
+The name Catacombs is modern, having originally been only applied to S.
+Sebastiano "ad catacumbas." The early Christians called their
+burial-places by the Greek name _Coemeteria_, sleeping-places. Almost
+all the catacombs are between the first and third mile-stones from the
+Aurelian wall, to which point the city extended before the wall itself
+was built. This was in obedience to the Roman law which forbade burial
+within the precincts of the city.
+
+The fact that the Christians were always anxious not to burn their dead,
+but to bury them, in these rock-hewn sepulchres, was probably owing to
+the remembrance that our Lord was himself laid "in a new tomb hewn out
+of the rock," and perhaps also for this reason the bodies were wrapt in
+fine linen cloths, and buried with precious spices, of which remains
+have been found in the tombs.
+
+The Catacomb which is known as St. Calixtus, is composed of a number of
+catacombs, once distinct, but now joined together. Such were those of
+Sta. Lucina; of Anatolia, daughter of the consul Æmilianus; and of Sta.
+Soteris, "a virgin of the family to which St. Ambrose belonged in a
+later generation," and who was buried "in coemeterio suo," A.D. 304.
+The passages of these catacombs were gradually united with those which
+originally belonged to the cemetery of Calixtus.
+
+The high mass of ruin which meets our eyes on first entering the
+vineyard of St. Calixtus, is a remnant of the tomb of the Cæcilii, of
+which family a number of epitaphs have been found. Beyond this is
+another ruin, supposed by Marangoni to have been the basilica which St.
+Damasus provided for his own burial and that of his mother and sister;
+which Padre Marchi believed to be the church of St. Mark and St.
+Marcellinus;--but which De Rossi identifies with the _cella memoriæ_,
+sometimes called of St. Sistus, sometimes of St. Cecilia (because built
+immediately over the graves of those martyrs), by St. Fabian in the
+third century.[204]
+
+Descending into the Catacomb by an ancient staircase restored, we reach
+(passing a sepulchral cubiculum on the right) the _Chapel of the Popes_,
+a place of burial and of worship of the third or fourth century, (as it
+was restored after its discovery in 1854) but still retaining remains
+of the marble slabs with which it was faced by Sixtus III. in the fifth
+century, and of marble columns, &c. with which it was adorned by St. Leo
+III. (795--816). The walls are lined with graves of the earliest popes,
+many of them martyrs--viz. St. Zephyrinus, (202--211); St Pontianus, who
+died in banishment in Sardinia, (231--236); St. Anteros, martyred under
+Maximian in the second month of his pontificate, (236); St. Fabian,
+martyred under Decius, (236--250); St. Lucius, martyred under Valerian,
+(253--255); St. Stephen I., martyred in his episcopal chair under
+Valerian, (255--257); St. Sixtus II., martyred in the catacombs of St.
+Pretextatus, (257--260); St. Dionysius, (260--271); St. Eutychianus,
+martyr, (275--283); and St. Caius, (284--296). Of these, the gravestones
+of Anteros, Fabian, Lucius, and Eutychianus, have been discovered, with
+inscriptions in Greek, which is acknowledged to have been the earliest
+language of the Church,--in which St. Paul and St. James wrote, and in
+which the proceedings of the first twelve Councils were carried on.[205]
+Though no inscriptions have been found relating to the other popes
+mentioned, they are known to have been buried here from the earliest
+authorities.
+
+Over the site of the altar is one of the beautifully-cut inscriptions of
+Pope St. Damasus (366--384), "whose labour of love it was to rediscover
+the tombs which had been blocked up for concealment under Diocletian, to
+remove the earth, widen the passages, adorn the sepulchral chambers with
+marble, and support the friable tufa walls with arches of brick and
+stone."[206]
+
+    "Hic congesta jacet quæris si turba Piorum
+    Corpora Sanctorum retinent veneranda sepulchra,
+    Sublimes animas rapuit sibi Regia Coeli:
+    Hic comites Xysti portant qui ex hoste tropæa;
+    Hic numerus procerum servat qui altaria Christi;
+    Hic positus longâ vixit qui in pace Sacerdos;
+    Hic Confessores sancti quos Græcia misit;
+    Hic juvenes, puerique, senes, castique nepotes,
+    Quis mage virgineum placuit retinere pudorem.
+    Hic fateor Damasus volui mea condere membra,
+    Sed cineres timui sanctos vexare Piorum.
+
+    "Here, if you would know, lie heaped together a number of the holy,
+    These honoured sepulchres inclose the bodies of the saints,
+    Their lofty souls the palace of heaven has received.
+    Here lie the companions of Xystus, who bear away the trophies
+     from the enemy;
+    Here a tribe of the elders which guards the altars of Christ;
+    Here is buried the priest who lived long in peace;[207]
+    Here the holy confessors who came from Greece;[208]
+    Here lie youths and boys, old men and their chaste descendants,
+    Who kept their virginity undefiled.
+    Here I Damasus wished to have laid my limbs,
+    But feared to disturb the holy ashes of the saints."[209]
+
+From this chapel we enter the _Cubiculum of Sta. Cecilia_, where the
+body of the saint was buried by her friend Urban after her martyrdom in
+her own house in the Trastevere (see Chap. XVII.) A.D. 224, and where it
+was discovered in 820 by Pope Paschal I. (to whom its resting-place had
+been revealed in a dream), "fresh and perfect as when it was first laid
+in the tomb, and clad in rich garments mixed with gold, with linen
+cloths stained with blood rolled up at her feet, lying in a cypress
+coffin."[210]
+
+Close to the entrance of the cubiculum, upon the wall, is a painting of
+Cecilia, "a woman richly attired, and adorned with bracelets and
+necklaces." Near it is a niche for the lamp which burnt before the
+shrine, at the back of which is a large head of Our Saviour, "of the
+Byzantine type, and with rays of glory behind it in the form of a Greek
+cross. Side by side with this, but on the flat surface of the wall, is a
+figure of St. Urban (the friend of Cecilia, who laid her body here) in
+full pontifical robes, with his name inscribed." Higher on the wall are
+figures of three saints, "executed apparently in the fourth, or perhaps
+even the fifth century"--Polycamus, an unknown martyr, with a palm
+branch; Sebastianus; and Curinus, a bishop (Quirinus bishop of
+Siscia--buried at St. Sebastian). In the pavement is a gravestone of
+Septimus Pretextatus Cæcilianus, "a servant of God, who lived worthy for
+three-and-thirty years;"--considered important as suggesting a
+connection between the family of Cecilia and that of St. Prætextatus, in
+whose catacomb on the other side of the Appian Way her husband and
+brother-in-law were buried, and where her friend St. Urban was
+concealed.
+
+These two chapels are the only ones which it is necessary to dwell upon
+here in detail. The rest of the catacomb is shown in varying order, and
+explained in different ways. Three points are of historic interest. 1.
+The roof-shaped tomb of Pope St. Melchiades, who lived long in peace and
+died A.D. 313. 2. The Cubiculum of Pope St. Eusebius, in the middle of
+which is placed an inscription, pagan on one side, on the other a
+restoration of the fifth century of one of the beautiful inscriptions
+of Pope Damasus, which is thus translated:--
+
+     "Heraclius forbade the lapsed to grieve for their sins. Eusebius
+     taught those unhappy ones to weep for their crimes. The people were
+     rent into parties, and with increasing fury began sedition,
+     slaughter, fighting, discord, and strife. Straightway both (the
+     pope and the heretic) were banished by the cruelty of the tyrant,
+     although the pope was preserving the bonds of peace inviolate. He
+     bore his exile with joy, looking to the Lord as his judge, and on
+     the shore of Sicily gave up the world and his life."
+
+At the top and bottom of the tablet is the following title:--
+
+    "Damasus Episcopus fecit Eusebio episcopo et martyri,"
+
+and on either side a single file of letters which hands down to us the
+name of the sculptor who executed the Damasine inscriptions.
+
+    "Furius Dionysius Filocalus scripsit Damasis pappæ cultor atque amatot."
+
+3. Near the exit, properly in the catacomb of Sta. Lucina, connected
+with that of Calixtus by a labyrinth of galleries, is the tomb of Pope
+St. Cornelius (251, 252) the only Roman bishop down to the time of St.
+Sylvester (314) who bore the name of any noble Roman family, and whose
+epitaph, (perhaps in consequence) is in Latin, while those of the other
+popes are in Greek. The tomb has no chapel of its own, but is a mere
+grave in a gallery, with a rectangular instead of a circular space
+above, as in the cubicula. Near the tomb are fragments of one of the
+commemorative inscriptions of St. Damasus, which has been ingeniously
+restored by De Rossi thus:--
+
+    "Aspice, descensu extructo tenebrisque fugatis
+    Corneli monumenta vides tumulumque sacratum
+    Hoc opus ægroti Damasi præstantia fecit,
+    Esset ut accessus melior, populisque paratum
+    Auxilium sancti, et valeas si fundere puro
+    Corde preces, Damasus melior consurgere posset,
+    Quem non lucis amor, tenuit mage cura laboris."
+
+     "Behold! a way down has been constructed, and the darkness
+     dispelled; you see the monuments of Cornelius, and his sacred tomb.
+     This work the zeal of Damasus has accomplished, sick as he is, in
+     order that the approach might be better, and the aid of the saint
+     might be made convenient for the people; and that, if you will pour
+     forth your prayers from a pure heart, Damasus may rise up better in
+     health, though it has not been love of life, but care for work,
+     that has kept him (here below)."[211]
+
+St. Cornelius was banished under Gallus to Centumcellæ--now Civita
+Vecchia, and was brought back thence to Rome for martyrdom Sept. 14,
+A.D. 252. On the same day of the month, in 258, died his friend and
+correspondent St. Cyprian, archbishop of Carthage,[212] who is
+consequently commemorated by the Church on the same day with St.
+Cornelius. Therefore also, on the right of the grave, are two figures of
+bishops with inscriptions declaring them to be St. Cornelius and St.
+Cyprian. Each holds the book of the Gospels in his hands and is clothed
+in pontifical robes, "including the pallium, which had not yet been
+confined as a mark of distinction to metropolitans."[213] Beneath the
+picture stands a pillar which held one of the vases of oil which were
+always kept burning before the shrines of the martyr. Beyond the tomb,
+at the end of the gallery, is another painting of two bishops, St.
+Sistus II., martyred in the catacomb of Pretextatus, and St. Optatus
+who was buried near him.
+
+In going round this catacomb, and in most of the others, the visitor
+will be shown a number of rude paintings, which will be explained to him
+in various ways, according to the tendencies of his guide. The paintings
+may be considered to consist of three classes, symbolical; allegorical
+and biblical; and liturgical. There is little variety of subject,--the
+same are introduced over and over again.
+
+The symbols most frequently introduced on and over the graves are:--
+
+     _The Anchor_, expressive of hope. Heb. vi. 19.
+
+     _The Dove_, symbolical of the Christian soul released from its
+     earthly tabernacle. Ps. lv. 6.
+
+     _The Sheep_, symbolical of the soul still wandering amid the
+     pastures and deserts of earthly life. Ps. cxix. 176. Isaiah liii.
+     6. John x. 14; xxi. 15, 16, 17.
+
+     _The Phoenix_, "the palm bird," emblematical of eternity and the
+     resurrection.
+
+     _The Fish_--typical of Our Saviour--from the word [Greek: ichthus],
+     formed by the initial letters of the titles of Our Lord--[Greek: Iêsous
+     Christos theou Huihos Sôtêr]--"Jesus Christ, the Son of God, the Saviour."
+
+     _The Ship_--representing the Church militant, sometimes seen
+     carried on the back of the fish.
+
+     _Bread_, represented with fish, sometimes carried in a basket on
+     its back, sometimes with it on a table--in allusion to the
+     multiplication of the loaves and fishes.
+
+     _A Female Figure Praying_, an "Orante"--in allusion to the Church.
+
+     _A Vine_--also in allusion to the Church. Ps. lxxx. 8. Isaiah v. 1.
+
+     _An Olive branch_, as a sign of peace.
+
+     _A Palm branch_, as a sign of victory and martyrdom. Rev. vii. 9.
+
+
+_Allegorical and Biblical Representations._
+
+Of these _The Good Shepherd_ requires an especial notice from the
+importance which is given to it and its frequent introduction in
+catacomb art, both in sculpture and painting.
+
+     "By far the most interesting of the early Christian paintings is
+     that of Our Saviour as the Good Shepherd, which is almost
+     invariably painted on the central space of the dome or cupola,
+     subjects of minor interest being disposed around it in
+     compartments, precisely in the style, as regards both the
+     arrangement and execution, of the heathen catacombs.
+
+     "He is represented as a youth in a shepherd's frock and sandals,
+     carrying the 'lost sheep' on his shoulders, or leaning on his staff
+     (the symbol, according to St. Augustine, of the Christian
+     hierarchy), while the sheep feed around, or look up at him.
+     Sometimes he is represented seated in the midst of the flock,
+     playing on a shepherd's pipe,--in a few instances, in the oldest
+     catacombs, he is introduced in the character of Orpheus, surrounded
+     by wild beasts enrapt by the melody of his lyre,--Orpheus being
+     then supposed to have been a prophet or precursor of the Messiah.
+     The background usually exhibits a landscape or meadow, sometimes
+     planted with olive-trees, doves resting on their branches,
+     symbolical of the peace of the faithful; in others, as in a fresco
+     preserved in the Museum Christianum, the palm of victory is
+     introduced, --but such combinations are endless. In one or two
+     instances the surrounding compartments are filled with
+     personifications of the Seasons, apt emblems of human life, whether
+     natural or spiritual.
+
+     "The subject of the Good Shepherd, I am sorry to add, is not of
+     Roman but Greek origin, and was adapted from a statue of Mercury
+     carrying a goat, at Tanagra, mentioned by Pausanias. The Christian
+     composition approximates to its original more nearly in the few
+     instances where Our Saviour is represented carrying a goat,
+     emblematical of the scapegoat of the wilderness. Singularly enough,
+     though of Greek parentage, and recommended to the Byzantines by
+     Constantine, who erected a statue of the Good Shepherd in the forum
+     of Constantinople, the subject did not become popular among them;
+     they seem, at least, to have tacitly abandoned it to Rome."--_Lord
+     Lindsay's Christian Art._
+
+     "The Good Shepherd seems to have been quite the favourite subject.
+     We cannot go through any part of the Catacombs, or turn over any
+     collection of ancient Christian monuments, without coming across it
+     again and again. We know from Tertullian that it was often designed
+     upon chalices. We find it ourselves painted in fresco upon the
+     roofs and walls of the sepulchral chambers; rudely scratched upon
+     gravestones, or more carefully sculptured on sarcophagi; traced in
+     gold upon glass, moulded on lamps, engraved on rings; and, in a
+     word, represented on every species of Christian monument that has
+     come down to us. Of course, amid such a multitude of examples,
+     there is considerable variety of treatment. We cannot, however,
+     appreciate the suggestion of Kügler, that this frequent repetition
+     of the subject is probably to be attributed to the capabilities
+     which it possessed in an artistic point of view. Rather, it was
+     selected because it expressed the whole sum and substance of the
+     Christian dispensation. In the language even of the Old Testament,
+     the action of Divine Providence upon the world is frequently
+     expressed by images and allegories borrowed from pastoral life; God
+     is the Shepherd, and men are His sheep. But in a still more special
+     way our Divine Redeemer offers Himself to our regards as the Good
+     Shepherd. He came down from His eternal throne into this wilderness
+     of the world to seek the lost sheep of the whole human race, and
+     having brought them together into one fold on earth, thence to
+     transport them into the ever-verdant pastures of Paradise."--_Roma
+     Sotterranea._
+
+Other biblical subjects are:--from the _Old Testament_ (those of Noah,
+Moses, Daniel, and Jonah being the only ones at all common)--
+
+     1. The Fall. Adam and Eve on either side of the Tree of Knowledge,
+     round which the serpent is coiled. Sometimes, instead of this, "Our
+     Saviour (as the representative of the Deity) stands between them,
+     condemning them, and offering a lamb to Eve and a sheaf of corn to
+     Adam, to signify the doom of themselves and their posterity to
+     delve and to spin through all future ages."
+
+     2. The Offering of Cain and Abel. They present a lamb and sheaf of
+     corn to a seated figure of the Almighty.
+
+     3. Noah in the Ark, represented as a box--a dove, bearing an
+     olive-branch, flies towards him. Interpreted to express the
+     doctrine that "the faithful having obtained remission of their sins
+     through baptism, have received from the Holy Spirit the gift of
+     divine peace, and are saved in the mystical ark of the church from
+     the destruction which awaits the world."[214] (Acts ii. 47.)
+
+     4. Sacrifice of Isaac.
+
+     5. Passage of the Red Sea.
+
+     6. Moses receiving the Law.
+
+     7. Moses striking water from the rock--(very common).
+
+     8. Moses pointing to the pots of manna.
+
+     9. Elijah going up to heaven in the chariot of fire.
+
+     10. The Three Children in the fiery furnace;--very common as
+     symbolical of martyrdom.
+
+     11. Daniel in the lions' den;--generally a naked figure with hands
+     extended, and a lion on either side; most common--as an
+     encouragement to Christian sufferers.
+
+     12. Jonah swallowed up by the whale, represented as a strange kind
+     of sea-horse.
+
+     13. Jonah disgorged by the whale.
+
+     14. Jonah under the gourd; or, according to the Vulgate, under the
+     ivy.
+
+     15. Jonah lamenting for the death of the gourd.
+
+     These four subjects from the story of Jonah are constantly
+     repeated, perhaps as encouragement to the Christians suffering from
+     the wickedness of Rome--the modern Nineveh, which they were to warn
+     and pray for.
+
+Subjects from the _New Testament_ are:
+
+     1. The Nativity--the ox and the ass kneeling.
+
+     2. The Adoration of the Magi--repeatedly placed in juxtaposition
+     with the story of the Three Children.
+
+     3. Our Saviour turning water into wine.
+
+     4. Our Saviour conversing with the woman of Samaria.
+
+     5. Our Saviour healing the paralytic man--who takes up his bed.
+     This is very common.
+
+     6. Our Saviour healing the woman with the issue of blood.
+
+     7. Our Saviour multiplying the loaves and fishes.
+
+     8. Our Saviour healing the daughter of the woman of Canaan.
+
+     9. Our Saviour healing the blind man.
+
+     10. The raising of Lazarus, who appears at a door in his
+     grave-clothes, while Christ with a wand stands before it. This is
+     the New Testament subject oftenest introduced. It is constantly
+     placed in juxtaposition with a picture of Moses striking the rock.
+     "These two subjects may be intended to represent the beginning and
+     end of the Christian course, 'the fountain of water springing up to
+     life everlasting.' God's grace and the gift of faith being typified
+     by the water flowing from the rock, 'which was Christ,' and life
+     everlasting by the victory over death and the second life
+     vouchsafed to Lazarus."[215]
+
+     11. Our Saviour's triumphal entry into Jerusalem.
+
+     12. Our Saviour giving the keys to Peter--very rare.
+
+     13. Our Saviour predicting the denial of Peter.
+
+     14. The denial of Peter.
+
+     15. Our Saviour before Pilate.
+
+     16. St.Peter taken to prison.
+
+     These last six subjects are only represented on tombs.[216]
+
+The class of paintings shown as _Liturgical_ are less definite than
+these. In the Catacombs of Calixtus several obscure paintings are shown
+(in cubicula anterior to the middle of the third century), which are
+said to have reference to the sacrament of baptism. Pictures of the
+paralytic carrying his bed are identified by some Roman Catholic
+authorities with the sacrament of penance. (!) Bosio believed that in
+the Catacomb of Sta. Priscilla he had found paintings which illustrated
+the sacrament of ordination. Representations undoubtedly exist which
+illustrate the _agape_ or love-feast of the primitive Church.
+
+On the opposite side of the Via Appia from St. Calixtus (generally
+entered from the road leading to S. Urbano) is the _Catacomb of St.
+Pretextatus_, interesting as being the known burial-place of several
+martyrs. A large crypt was discovered here in 1857, built with solid
+masonry and lined with Greek marble.
+
+     "The workmanship points to early date, and specimens of pagan
+     architecture in the same neighbourhood enable us to fix the middle
+     of the latter half of the second century (A.D. 175) as a very
+     probable date for its erection. The Acts of the Saints explain to
+     us why it was built with bricks, and not hewn out of the rock--viz.
+     because the Christian who made it (Sta. Marmenia) had caused it to
+     be excavated immediately below her own house; and now that we see
+     it, we understand the precise meaning of the words used by the
+     itineraries describing it--viz. 'a large cavern, most firmly
+     built.' The vault of the chapel is most elaborately painted, in a
+     style by no means inferior to the best classical productions of the
+     age. It is divided into four bands of wreaths, one of roses,
+     another of corn-sheaves, a third of vine-leaves and grapes (and in
+     all these, birds are introduced visiting their young in nests), and
+     the last or highest, of leaves of laurel or the bay-tree. Of course
+     these severally represent the seasons of spring, summer, autumn,
+     and winter. The last is a well-known figure or symbol of death; and
+     probably the laurel, as the token of victory, was intended to
+     represent the new and Christian idea of the everlasting reward of a
+     blessed immortality. Below these bands is another border, more
+     indistinct, in which reapers are gathering in the corn; and at the
+     back of the arch is a rural scene, of which the central figure is
+     the Good Shepherd carrying a sheep upon his shoulders. This,
+     however, has been destroyed by graves pierced through the wall and
+     the rock behind it, from the eager desire to bury the dead of a
+     later generation as near as possible to the tombs of the martyrs.
+     As De Rossi proceeded to examine these graves in detail, he could
+     hardly believe his eyes when he read around the edge of one of them
+     these words and fragments of words:--_Mi Refrigeri Januarius
+     Agatopos Felicissim Martyres_--'Januarius, Agapetus, Felicissimus,
+     martyrs, refresh the soul of....' The words had been scratched upon
+     the mortar while it was yet fresh, fifteen centuries ago, as the
+     prayer of some bereaved relative for the soul of him whom they were
+     burying here, and now they revealed to the antiquarian of the
+     nineteenth century the secret he was in quest of--viz. the place of
+     burial of the saints whose aid is here invoked; for the numerous
+     examples to be seen in other cemeteries warrant us in concluding
+     that the bodies of the saints, to whose intercession the soul of
+     the deceased is here recommended, were at the time of his burial
+     lying at no great distance."--_Roma Sotterranea._
+
+The St. Januarius buried here was the eldest of the seven sons of St.
+Felicitas, martyred July 10, A.D. 162. St. Agapitus and St. Felicissimus
+were deacons of Pope Sixtus II., who were martyred together with him and
+St. Pretextatus[217] in this very catacomb, because Sixtus II. "had set
+at nought the commands of the Emperor Valerian."[218]
+
+A mutilated inscription of St. Damasus, in the Catacomb of Calixtus,
+near the tomb of Cornelius, thus records the death of this pope:
+
+    "Tempore quo gladius secuit pia visura Matris
+    Hic positus rector cælestia jussa docebam;
+    Adveniunt subito, rapiunt qui forte sedentem;
+    Militibus missis, populi tunc colla dedere.
+    Mox sibi cognovit senior quis tollere vellet
+    Palmam seque suumque caput prior obtulit ipse,
+    Impatiens feritas posset ne lædere quemquam.
+    Ostendit Christus reddit qui præmia vitæ
+    Pastoris meritum, numerum gregis ipse tuetur."
+
+     "At the time when the sword pierced the heart of our Mother
+     (Church), I, its ruler, buried here, was teaching the things of
+     heaven. Suddenly they came, they seized me seated as I was;--the
+     soldiers being sent in, the people gave their necks (to the
+     slaughter). Soon the old man saw who was willing to bear away the
+     palm from himself, and was the first to offer himself and his own
+     head, fearing lest the blow should fall on any one else. Christ who
+     awards the rewards of life recognises the merit of the pastor, he
+     himself is preserving the number of his flock."
+
+An adjoining crypt, considered to date from A.D. 130, is believed to be
+the burial-place of St. Quirinus.
+
+Above this catacomb are ruins of two basilicas, erected in honour of St.
+Zeno; and of Tiburtius, Valerian, and Maximus, companions of Sta.
+Cecilia in martyrdom.
+
+In the road leading to S. Urbano is the entrance to the _Jewish
+Catacomb_. It is entered by a chamber open to the sky, floored with
+black and white mosaic, which is supposed to have formed part of a pagan
+dwelling. The following chamber has remains of a well. Hence a low door
+forms the entrance of a gallery out of which open six cubicula, one of
+them containing a fine while marble sarcophagus, and decorated with a
+painting of the seven-branched candlestick. A side passage leads to
+other cubicula, and to an open space which seems to have been an actual
+arenarium. A winding passage at the end of the larger gallery leads to
+the graves in the floor divided into different cells for corpses, and
+called _Cocim_ by Rabbinical writers. A cubiculum at the end of the
+catacomb has paintings of figures--Plenty, with a cornucopia; Victory,
+with a palm leaf, &c. The inscriptions found show that this cemetery was
+exclusively Jewish. They refer to officers of the synagogue, rulers
+([Greek: archontes]), and scribes ([Greek: grammateis]), &c. The
+inscriptions are in great part in Greek letters, expressing Latin words.
+
+Another small Jewish catacomb has been discovered behind the basilica of
+St. Sebastian. Behind the Catacomb of St. Calixtus, on the right of the
+Via Ardeatina, is the _Catacomb of SS. Nereo ed Achilleo_. Close to its
+entrance is the farm of _Tor Marancia_, where are some ruins, believed
+to be remains of the villa of Flavia Domitilla. This celebrated member
+of the early Christian Church was daughter of the Flavia Domitilla who
+was sister of the Emperor Domitian,--and wife of Titus Flavius Clemens,
+son of the Titus Flavius Sabinus who was brother of the Emperor
+Vespasian. Her two sons were, Vespasian Junior and Domitian Junior, who
+were intended to succeed to the throne, and to whom Quinctilian was
+appointed as tutor by the emperor. Dion Cassius narrates that "Domitian
+put to death several persons, and amongst them Flavius Clemens the
+consul, although he was his nephew, and although he had Flavia Domitilla
+for his wife, who was also related to the emperor. They were both
+accused of atheism, on which charge many others also had been
+condemned, going after the manners and customs of the Jew; and some of
+them were put to death, and others had their goods confiscated; but
+Domitilla was only banished to Pandataria."[219] This Flavia Domitilla
+is frequently confused with her niece of the same name,[220] whose
+banishment is mentioned by Eusebius, when he says:--"The teaching of our
+faith had by this time shone so far and wide, that even pagan historians
+did not refuse to insert in their narratives some account of the
+persecution and the martyrdoms that were suffered in it. Some, too, have
+marked the time accurately, mentioning, amongst many others, in the
+fifteenth year of Domitian (A.D. 97), Flavia Domitilla, the daughter of
+a sister of Flavius Clemens, one of the Roman consuls of those days,
+who, for her testimony for Christ, was punished by exile to the island
+of Pontia." It was this younger Domitilla who was accompanied in her
+exile by her two Christian servants, Nereus and Achilles; whose
+banishment is spoken of by St. Jerome as "a life-long martyrdom,"--whose
+cell was afterwards visited by Sta. Paula,[221] and who, according to
+the Acts of SS. Nereus and Achilles, was brought back to the mainland to
+be burnt alive at Terracina, because she refused to sacrifice to idols.
+The relics of Domitilla, with those of her servants, were preserved in
+the catacomb under the villa which had belonged to her Christian aunt.
+
+Receiving as evidence the story of Sta. Domitilla, this catacomb must be
+looked upon as the oldest Christian cemetery in existence. Its galleries
+were widened and strengthened by John I. (523--526). A chamber near the
+entrance is pointed out as the burial-place of Sta. Petronilla.
+
+     "The sepulchre of SS. Nereus and Achilles was in all probability in
+     that chapel to which we descend by so magnificent a staircase, and
+     which is illuminated by so fine a _luminare_; for that this is the
+     central point of attraction in the cemetery is clear, both from the
+     staircase and the luminare just mentioned, as also from the greater
+     width of the adjacent galleries and other similar tokens." Here
+     then St. Gregory the Great delivered his twenty-eighth homily
+     (which Baronius erroneously supposes to have been delivered in the
+     Church of SS. Nereo ed Achilleo, to which the bodies of the saints
+     were not yet removed), in which he says--"These saints, before
+     whose tomb we are assembled, despised the world and trampled it
+     under their feet, when peace, plenty, riches, and health gave it
+     charms."
+
+     " ... There is a higher and more ancient _piano_, in which coins
+     and medals of the first two centuries, and inscriptions of great
+     value, have been recently discovered. Some of these inscriptions
+     may still be seen in one of the chambers near the bottom of the
+     staircase; they are both Latin and Greek; sometimes both languages
+     are mixed; and in one or two instances Latin words are written in
+     Greek characters. Many of these monuments are of the deepest
+     importance both in an antiquarian and religious point of view; in
+     archaeology, as showing the practice of private Christians in the
+     first ages to make the subterranean chambers at their own expense
+     and for their own use, _e. g._--'M. Aurelius Restutus made this
+     subterranean for himself, and those of his family who believed in
+     the Lord,'--where, both the triple names and the limitation
+     introduced at the end (which shows that many of his family were
+     still pagan), are unquestionably proofs of very high
+     antiquity."--_Northcote's Roman Catacombs_, p. 103, &c.
+
+Among the most remarkable paintings in this catacomb are, Orpheus with
+his lyre, surrounded by birds and beasts who are charmed with his music;
+Elijah ascending to heaven in a chariot drawn by four horses; and the
+portrait of Our Lord.
+
+     "The head and bust of our Lord form a medallion, occupying the
+     centre of the roof in the same _cubiculum_ where Orpheus is
+     represented. This painting, in consequence of the description
+     given of it by Kügler (who misnamed the catacomb St. Calixtus), is
+     often eagerly sought after by strangers visiting the catacombs. It
+     is only just, however, to add, that they are generally
+     disappointed. Kügler supposed it to be the oldest portrait of Our
+     Blessed Saviour in existence, but we doubt if there is sufficient
+     authority for such a statement. He describes it in these
+     words:--'The face is oval, with a straight nose, arched eyebrows, a
+     smooth and rather high forehead, the expression serious and mild;
+     the hair, parted on the forehead, flows in long curls down the
+     shoulders; the beard is not thick, but short and divided; the age
+     between thirty and forty.' But this description is too minute and
+     precise, too artistic, for the original, as it is now to be seen. A
+     lively imagination may, perhaps, supply the details described by
+     our author, but the eye certainly fails to distinguish
+     them."--_Roma Sotterranea_, p. 253.
+
+Approached by a separate entrance on the slope of the hill-side is a
+sepulchral chamber, which De Rossi considers to have been the
+_Burial-place of Sta. Domitilla_.
+
+     "It is certainly one of the most ancient and remarkable Christian
+     monuments yet discovered. Its position, close to the highway; its
+     front of fine brickwork, with a cornice of terra-cotta, with the
+     usual space for an inscription (which has now, alas, perished); the
+     spaciousness of its gallery, with its four or five separate niches
+     prepared for as many sarcophagi; the fine stucco on the wall; the
+     eminently classical character of its decorations; all these things
+     make it perfectly clear that it was the monument of a Christian
+     family of distinction, excavated at great cost, and without the
+     slightest attempt at concealment. In passing from the vestibule
+     into the catacomb, we recognise the transition from the use of the
+     sarcophagus to that of the common _loculus_; for the first two or
+     three graves on either side, though really mere shelves in the
+     wall, are so disguised by painting on the outside as to present to
+     passers-by the complete outward appearance of a sarcophagus. Some
+     few of these graves are marked with the names of the dead, written
+     in black on the largest tiles, and the inscriptions on the other
+     graves are all of the simplest and oldest form. Lastly, the whole
+     of the vaulted roof is covered with the most exquisitely graceful
+     designs, of branches of the vine (with birds and winged genii among
+     them) trailing with all the freedom of nature over the whole walls,
+     not fearing any interruption by graves, nor confined by any of
+     those lines of geometrical symmetry which characterise similar
+     productions in the next century. Traces also of landscapes may be
+     seen here and there, which are of rare occurrence in the catacombs,
+     though they may be seen in the chambers assigned by De Rossi to SS.
+     Nereus and Achilles. The Good Shepherd, an _agape_, or the heavenly
+     feast, a man fishing, and Daniel in the lions' den, are the chief
+     historical or allegorical representations of Christian mysteries
+     which are painted here. Unfortunately they have been almost
+     destroyed by persons attempting to detach them from the
+     wall."--_Roma Sotterranea_, p. 70.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A road to the left now leads to the Via Appia Nuova, passing about a
+quarter of a mile hence, a turn on the left to the ruin generally known
+as the _Temple of Bacchus_, from an altar dedicated to Bacchus which was
+found there, but considered by modern antiquaries as a temple of Ceres
+and Proserpine. This building has been comparatively saved from the
+destruction which has befallen its neighbours by having been consecrated
+as a church in A.D. 820 by Pope Pascal I., in honour of his sainted
+predecessor Urban I., A.D. 226--whose pontificate was chiefly passed in
+refuge in the neighbouring Catacomb of St. Calixtus--because of a belief
+that he was wont to resort hither.
+
+A chapel at a great depth below the church, is shown as that in which
+St. Urban baptized and celebrated mass. A curious fresco here represents
+the Virgin between St. Urban and St. John.
+
+Around the upper part of the interior are a much injured series of
+frescoes, comprising--the life of Christ from the Annunciation to the
+descent into Hades,--and the life of St. Cecilia and her husband
+Valerian, ending in the burial of Cecilia by Pope Urban in the Catacombs
+of Calixtus, and the story of the martyred Urban I. In the picture of
+the Crucifixion, the thieves have their names, "Calpurnius and
+Longinus." The frescoes were altered in the seventeenth century to suit
+the views of the Roman Church, keys being placed in the hand of Peter,
+&c. Sets of drawings taken _before_ and _after_ the alterations, are
+preserved in the Barberini Library, and curiously show the difference.
+
+A winding path leads from S. Urbano into the valley. Here, beside the
+Almo rivulet, is a ruined Nymphæum containing a mutilated statue of a
+river-god, which was called "the Grotto of Egeria," till a few years
+ago, when the discovery of the true site of the Porta Capena fixed that
+of the grotto within the walls. The fine grove of old ilex-trees on the
+hillside, was at the same time pointed out as the sacred grove of
+Egeria.
+
+    "Egeria! sweet creation of some heart
+    Which found no mortal resting-place so fair
+    As thine ideal breast; whate'er thou art
+    Or wert,--a young Aurora of the air,
+    The nympholepsy of some fond despair;
+    Or, it might be, a beauty of the earth,
+    Who found a more than common votary there
+    Too much adoring; whatsoe'er thy birth,
+    Thou wert a beautiful thought, and softly bodied forth.
+
+    "The mosses of thy fountain still are sprinkled
+    With thine Elysian water-drops; the face
+    Of thy cave-guarded spring, with years unwrinkled,
+    Reflects the meek-eyed genius of the place,
+    Whose green, wild margin now no more erase
+    Art's works; nor must the delicate waters sleep,
+    Prisoned in marble, bubbling from the base
+    Of the cleft statue, with a gentle leap
+    The rill runs o'er, and round, fern, flowers, and ivy, creep,
+
+    "Fantastically tangled; the green hills
+    Are clothed with early blossoms, through the grass
+    The quick-eyed lizard rustles, and the bills
+    Of summer-birds sing welcome as ye pass;
+    Flowers fresh in hue, and many in their class,
+    Implore the pausing step, and with their dyes
+    Dance in the soft breeze in a fairy mass;
+    The sweetness of the violet's deep blue eyes,
+    Kiss'd by the breath of heaven, seems coloured by its skies."
+
+    _Byron, Childe Harold._
+
+It is now known that this nymphæum and the valley in which it stands
+belonged to the suburban villa called Triopio, of Herodes Atticus, whose
+romantic story is handed down to us through two Greek inscriptions in
+the possession of the Borghese family, and is further illustrated by the
+writings of Filostratus and Pausanias.
+
+     A wealthy Greek named Ipparchus offended his government and lost
+     all his wealth by confiscation, but the family fortunes were
+     redeemed, through the discovery by his son Atticus of a vast
+     treasure, concealed in a small piece of ground which remained to
+     them, close to the rock of the Acropolis. Dreading the avarice of
+     his fellow-citizens, Atticus sent at once to Nerva, the then
+     emperor, telling him of the discovery, and requesting his orders as
+     to what he was to do with the treasure. Nerva replied, that he was
+     welcome to keep it, and use it as he pleased. Not yet satisfied or
+     feeling sufficiently sure of the protection of the emperor, Atticus
+     again applied to him, saying that the treasure was far too vast for
+     the use of a person in a private station of life, and asking how he
+     was to use it. The emperor again replied that the treasure was his
+     own and due to his own good fortune, and that "what he could not
+     use he might abuse." Atticus then entered securely into possession
+     of his wealth, which he bequeathed to his son Herodes, who used his
+     fortune magnificently in his bountiful charities, in the
+     encouragement of literature and art throughout both Greece and
+     Italy, and (best appreciated of all by the Greeks) in the splendour
+     of the public games which he gave.
+
+     Early in the reign of Antoninus Pius, Herodes Atticus removed to
+     Rome, where he was appointed professor of rhetoric to Marcus
+     Aurelius and Lucius Verus, the two adopted sons of the emperor, and
+     where he attained the consulship in A.D. 143. Soon after his
+     arrival he fell in love with Annia Regilla, a beautiful and wealthy
+     heiress, and in spite of the violent opposition of her brother,
+     Annius Attilius Braduas, who, belonging to the Julian family, and
+     claiming an imaginary descent from Venus and Anchises, looked upon
+     the marriage as a mesalliance, he succeeded in obtaining her hand.
+     Part of the wealth which Annia Regilla brought to her husband was
+     the Valle Caffarelli and its nymphæum.
+
+     For some years Herodes Atticus and Annia Regilla enjoyed the
+     perfection of married happiness in this beautiful valley; but
+     shortly before the expected birth of her fifth child, she died very
+     suddenly, leaving her husband almost frantic with grief and
+     refusing every consolation. He was roused, however, from his first
+     anguish by his brother-in-law Annius Braduas, who had never laid
+     aside his resentment at the marriage, and who now accused him of
+     having poisoned his wife. Herodes demanded a public trial, and was
+     acquitted. Filostratus records that the intense grief he showed and
+     the depth of the mourning he wore, were taken as signs of his
+     innocence. Further to clear himself from imputation, Herodes
+     offered all the jewels of Annia Regilla upon the altar of the
+     Eleusinian deities, Ceres and Proserpine, at the same time calling
+     down the vengeance of the outraged gods if he were guilty of
+     sacrilege.
+
+     The beloved Regilla was buried in a tomb surrounded by "a
+     sepulchral field" within the precincts of the villa, dedicated to
+     Minerva and Nemesis, and (as recorded in one of the Greek
+     inscriptions) it was made an act of the highest sacrilege, for any
+     but her own descendants to be laid within those sacred limits. A
+     statue was also erected to Regilla in the Triopian temple of Ceres
+     and Proserpine, which is now supposed to be the same with that
+     usually called the temple of Bacchus. Not only did Herodes hang his
+     house with black in his affliction, but all gaily coloured marbles
+     were stripped from the walls, and replaced with the dark grey
+     marble known as "bardiglio,"--and his depth of woe made him so
+     conspicuous, that a satirical person seeing his cook prepare white
+     beans for dinner, wondered that he could dare to do so in a house
+     so entirely black.
+
+The inscriptions in which this story is related (one of them containing
+thirty-nine Greek verses) are engraved on slabs of Pentelic marble--and
+Philostratus and Pausanias narrate that the quarries of this marble were
+the property of Herodes, and that in his magnificent buildings he almost
+exhausted them.[222]
+
+The field path from hence leads back to the Church of Domine Quo Vadis,
+passing on the right a beautifully-finished tomb (of the time of
+Septimius Severus) known as the _Temple of Divus Rediculus_, and
+formerly described as having been built to commemorate the retreat of
+Hannibal, who came thus far in his intended attack upon Rome. The temple
+erected in memory of this event was really on the right of the Via
+Appia. It was dedicated to Rediculus, the god of Return. The folly of
+ciceroni often cites this name as "Ridiculous."
+
+     The neighbourhood of the Divus Rediculus (which he however places
+     on the _right_ of the Via Appia) is described by Pliny in
+     connection with a curious story of imperial times. There was a
+     cobbler who had his stall in the Roman Forum, and who possessed a
+     tame raven, which was a great favourite with the young Romans, to
+     whom he would bid good day as he sate perched upon the rostra. At
+     length he became quite a public character, and the indignation was
+     so great when his master killed him with his hammer in a fit of
+     rage at his spoiling some new leather, that they slew the cobbler
+     and decreed a public funeral to the bird; who was carried to the
+     grave on a bier adorned with honorary crowns, preceded by a piper,
+     and supported by two negroes in honour of his colour,--and
+     buried--"ad rogum usque, qui constructus dextrâ Viæ Appiæ ad
+     secundum lapidem in campo Rediculo appellate fuit."--_Pliny, Nat.
+     Hist._ lib. x. c. 60.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Returning to the Via Appia, we reach, on the right, the _Basilica of S.
+Sebastiano_, rebuilt in 1611 by Flaminio Ponzio for Cardinal Scipio
+Borghese on the site of a church which had been founded by Constantine,
+where once existed the house and garden of the matron Lucina, in which
+she had buried the body of Sebastian, after his (second) martyrdom under
+Diocletian. The basilica contains nothing ancient, but the six granite
+columns in the portico. The altar covers the relics of the saint (a
+Gaul, a native of Narbonne, a Christian soldier under Diocletian) and
+the chapel of St. Sebastian has a statue of him in his youth, designed
+by Bernini and executed by Antonio Giorgetti.
+
+     "The almost colossal form lies dead, the head resting on his helmet
+     and armour. It is evidently modelled from nature, and is perhaps
+     the finest thing ever designed by Bernini.... It is probably from
+     the association of arrows with his form and story that St.
+     Sebastian has been regarded from the first ages of Christianity as
+     the protecting saint against plague and pestilence; Apollo was the
+     deity who inflicted plague, and therefore was invoked with prayer
+     and sacrifice against it; and to the honour of Apollo, in this
+     particular character, St. Sebastian has succeeded."--_Jameson's
+     Sacred Art_, p. 414.
+
+The original of the footprint in the Domine Quo Vadis is said to be
+preserved here.
+
+On the left of the entrance is the descent into the catacombs, with the
+inscription:
+
+     "In hoc sacrosancto loco qui dicitur ad Catacumbas, ubi sepulta
+     fuerunt sanctorum martyrum corpora 174,000 ac 46 summorum
+     pontificium pariterque martyrum. In altare in quo corpus divi
+     Sebastiani Christi athletæ jacet celebrans summus Pontifex S.
+     Gregorius Magnus vidit angelum Dei candidiorem nive, sibi in
+     tremendo sacrificio ministrantem ac dicentem, 'Hic est locus
+     sacratissimus in quo est divina promissio et omnium peccatorum
+     remissio, splendor et lux perpetua, sine fine lætitia, quam Christi
+     martyr Sebastianus habere promeruit.' Prout Severanus Tom. Pº.
+     pagina 450, ac etiam antiquissimæ lapideæ testantur tabulæ.
+
+     "Ideo in hoc insigne privilegiato altari, tam missæ cantatæ quam
+     privatæ, dum celebrante, animæ quæ sunt in purgatorio pro quibus
+     sacrificium offertur plenariam indulgentiam, et omnium suorum
+     peccatorum remissionem consequuntur prout ab angelo dictum fuit et
+     summi pontifices confirmarunt."
+
+These are the catacombs which are most frequently visited by strangers,
+because they can always be seen on application to the monks attached to
+the church,--though they are of greatly inferior interest to those of St
+Calixtus.
+
+     "Though future excavations may bring to light much that is
+     interesting in this cemetery, the small portion now accessible is,
+     as a specimen of the Catacombs, utterly without value. Its only
+     interest consists in its religious associations: here St. Bridget
+     was wont to kneel, rapt in contemplation; here St. Charles Borromeo
+     spent whole nights in prayer; and here the heart of St. Philip Neri
+     was so inflamed with divine love as to cause his very bodily frame
+     to be changed."--_Northcote's Roman Catacombs._
+
+    "Philip, on thee the glowing ray
+      Of heaven came down upon thy prayer,
+    To melt thy heart, and burn away
+      All that of earthly dross was there.
+
+    "And so, on Philip when we gaze,
+      We see the image of his Lord;
+    The saint dissolves amid the blaze
+      Which circles round the Living Word.
+
+    "The meek, the wise, none else is here,
+      Dispensing light to men below;
+    His awful accents fill the ear,
+      Now keen as fire, now soft as snow."
+
+    _J. H. Newman_, 1850.
+
+Owing to the desire in the early Christian Church of saving the graves
+of their first confessors and martyrs from desecration, almost all the
+catacombs were gradually blocked up, and by lapse of time their very
+entrances were forgotten. In the fourteenth century very few were still
+open. In the fifteenth century none remained except this of St.
+Sebastian, which continued to be frequented by pilgrims, and was called
+in all ancient documents "coemeterium ad catacumbas."
+
+At the back of the high-altar is an interesting half-subterranean
+building, attributed to Pope Liberius (352--355), and afterwards adorned
+by Pope Damasus, who briefly tells its history in one of his
+inscriptions, which may still be seen here:
+
+    "Hinc habitasse prius sanctos cognoscere debes,
+    Nomina quisque Petri pariter Paulique requiris.
+    Discipulos Oriens misit, quod sponte fatemur,
+    Sanguinis ob meritum Christumque per astra sequuti,
+    Aetherios petiere sinus et regna piorum.
+    Roma suos potius meruit defendere cives.
+    Hæc Damasus vestras referat sidera laudes."
+
+     "Here you should know that saints dwelt. Their names, if you ask
+     them, were Peter and Paul. The East sent disciples, which we freely
+     acknowledge. For the merit of their blood they followed Christ to
+     the stars, and sought the heavenly home and the kingdom of the
+     blest. Rome however deserved to defend her own citizens. May
+     Damasus record these things for your praise, O new stars."
+
+     "The two Apostles, St. Peter and St. Paul, were originally buried,
+     the one at the Vatican, the other on the Ostian Way, at the spot
+     where their respective basilicas now stand; but, as soon as the
+     Oriental Christians had heard of their death, they sent some of
+     their brethren to remove their bodies, and bring them back to the
+     East, where they considered that they had a right to claim them as
+     their fellow-citizens and countrymen. These so far prospered in
+     their mission as to gain a momentary possession of the sacred
+     relics, which they carried off, along the Appian Way, as far as the
+     spot where the church of St. Sebastian was afterwards built. Here
+     they rested for a while, to make all things ready for their
+     journey, or, according to another account, were detained by a
+     thunderstorm of extraordinary violence, which delay, however
+     occasioned, was sufficient to enable the Christians of Rome to
+     overtake them and recover their lost treasure. These Roman
+     Christians then buried the bodies, with the utmost secrecy, in a
+     deep pit, which they dug on the very spot where they were. Soon,
+     indeed, they were restored to their original places of sepulture,
+     as we know from contemporary authorities, and there seems reason to
+     believe the old ecclesiastical tradition to be correct, which
+     states them to have only remained in this temporary abode for a
+     year and seven months. The body of St. Peter, however, was destined
+     to revisit it a second time, and for a longer period; for when, at
+     the beginning of the third century, Heliogabalus made his circus at
+     the Vatican, Calixtus, who was then pope, removed the relics of the
+     Apostle to their former temporary resting-place, the pit on the
+     Appian Way. But in A.D. 257, St. Stephen, the pope, having been
+     discovered in this very cemetery and having suffered martyrdom
+     there, the body of St. Peter was once more removed, and restored to
+     its original tomb in the Vatican."--_Northcote's Roman Catacombs._
+
+In the passages of this catacomb are misguiding inscriptions placed here
+in 1409 by William, Archbishop of Bourges, calling upon the faithful to
+venerate _here_ the tombs of Sta. Cecilia and of many of the martyred
+popes, who are buried elsewhere. The martyr St. Cyrinus is known to have
+been buried here from very early itineraries, but his grave has not been
+discovered.
+
+     "When I was a boy, being educated at Rome, I used every Sunday, in
+     company with other boys of my own age and tastes, to visit the
+     tombs of the apostles and martyrs, and to go into the crypts
+     excavated there in the bowels of the earth. The walls on either
+     side as you enter are full of the bodies of the dead, and the whole
+     place is so dark, that one seems almost to see the fulfilment of
+     those words of the prophet, 'Let them go down alive into Hades.'
+     Here and there a little light, admitted from above, suffices to
+     give a momentary relief to the horror of the darkness; but as you
+     go forwards, and find yourself again immersed in the utter
+     blackness of night, the words of the poet come spontaneously to
+     your mind: 'The very silence fills the soul with dread.'"--_St.
+     Jerome_ (A.D. 354), _In Ezek._ ch. lx.
+
+     "A gaunt Franciscan friar, with a wild bright eye, was our only
+     guide down into this profound and dreadful place. The narrow ways
+     and openings hither and thither, coupled with the dead and heavy
+     air, soon blotted out, in all of us, any recollection of the track
+     by which we had come; and I could not help thinking, 'Good Heaven,
+     if in a sudden fit of madness he should dash the torches out, or if
+     he should be seized with a fit, what would become of us!' On we
+     wandered, among martyrs' graves: passing great subterranean vaulted
+     roads, diverging in all directions, and choked up with heaps of
+     stones, that thieves and murderers may not take refuge there, and
+     form a population under Rome, even worse than that which lives
+     between it and the sun. Graves, graves, graves; graves of men, of
+     women, of little children, who ran crying to the persecutors, 'We
+     are Christians! we are Christians!' that they might be murdered
+     with their parents; graves with the palm of martyrdom roughly cut
+     into their stone boundaries, and little niches, made to hold a
+     vessel of the martyr's blood; graves of some who lived down here,
+     for years together, ministering to the rest, and preaching truth,
+     and hope, and comfort, from the rude altars, that bear witness to
+     their fortitude at this hour; more roomy graves, but far more
+     terrible, where hundreds, being surprised, were hemmed in and
+     walled up; buried before death, and killed by slow starvation.
+
+     "'The triumphs of the Faith are not above-ground in our splendid
+     churches,' said the friar, looking round upon us, as we stopped to
+     rest in one of the low passages, with bones and dust surrounding us
+     on every side. 'They are here! among the martyrs' graves!' He was a
+     gentle, earnest man, and said it from his heart; but when I thought
+     how Christian men have dealt with one another; how, perverting our
+     most merciful religion, they have hunted down and tortured, burnt
+     and beheaded, strangled, slaughtered, and oppressed each other; I
+     pictured to myself an agony surpassing any that this Dust had
+     suffered with the breath of life yet lingering in it, and how these
+     great and constant hearts would have been shaken--how they would
+     have quailed and drooped--if a foreknowledge of the deeds that
+     professing Christians would commit in the great name for which they
+     died, could have rent them with its own unutterable anguish, on the
+     cruel wheel, and bitter cross, and in the fearful
+     fire."--_Dickens._
+
+     "Countless martyrs, they say, rest in these ancient sepulchres. In
+     these dark depths the ancient Church took refuge from persecution;
+     there she laid her martyrs, and there, over their tombs, she
+     chaunted hymns of triumph, and held communion with Him for whom
+     they died. In that church I spend hours. I have no wish to descend
+     into those sacred sepulchres, and pry among the graves the
+     resurrection trump will open soon enough. I like to think of the
+     holy dead, lying undisturbed and quiet there; of their spirits in
+     Paradise; of their faith triumphant in the city that massacred
+     them.
+
+     "No doubt they also had their perplexities, and wondered why the
+     wicked triumph, and sighed to God, 'How long, O Lord, how
+     long?'"--_Schonberg Cotta Family._
+
+     "And when he had opened the fifth seal, I saw under the altar the
+     souls of them that were slain for the word of God, and for the
+     testimony which they held: and they cried with a loud voice,
+     saying, How long, O Lord, holy and true, dost thou not judge and
+     avenge our blood on them that dwell on the earth? And white robes
+     were given unto every one of them; and it was said unto them, that
+     they should rest yet for a little season, until their
+     fellow-servants also and their brethren, that should be killed as
+     they were, should be fulfilled."--_Rev._ vi. 9--11.
+
+In the valley beneath S. Sebastiano are the ruins of the _Circus of
+Maxentius_, near those of a villa of that emperor. The circus was 1482
+feet long, 244 feet broad, and was capable of containing 15,000
+spectators, yet it is a miniature compared with the Circus Maximus,
+though very interesting as retaining in tolerable preservation all the
+different parts which composed a circus. The circular ruin near it was a
+_Temple_ dedicated by Maxentius to his son Romulus.
+
+     "Le jeune Romulus, étant mort, fut placé au rang des dieux, dans
+     cet olympe qui s'écroulait. Son père lui éleva un temple dont la
+     partie inférieure se voit encore, et le cirque lui-même fut
+     peut-être une dépendance de ce temple funèbre, car les courses de
+     chars étaient un des honneurs que l'antiquité rendait aux morts, et
+     sont souvent pour cela représentées sur les tombeaux."--_Ampère,
+     Emp._ ii. 360.
+
+These ruins are very picturesque, backed by the peaks of the Sabine
+range, which in winter are generally covered with snow.
+
+The opposite hill is crowned by the _Tomb of Cecilia Metella_, daughter
+of Quintus Metellus Creticus, and wife of Crassus. It is a round tower,
+seventy feet in diameter. The bulls' heads on the frieze gave it the
+popular name of Capo di Bove. The marble coating of the basement was
+carried off by Urban VIII. to make the fountain of Trevi. The
+battlements were added when the tomb was turned into a fortress by the
+Caëtani in the thirteenth century.
+
+     "About two miles, or more, from the city gates, and right upon the
+     roadside, is an immense round pile, sepulchral in its original
+     purpose, like those already mentioned. It is built of great blocks
+     of hewn stone, on a vast, square foundation of rough, agglomerated
+     material, such as composes the mass of all the other ruinous tombs.
+     But, whatever might be the cause, it is in a far better state of
+     preservation than they. On its broad summit rise the battlements of
+     a mediæval fortress, out of the midst of which (so long since had
+     time begun to crumble the supplemental structure, and cover it with
+     soil, by means of wayside dust) grow trees, bushes, and thick
+     festoons of ivy. This tomb of a woman has become the dungeon-keep
+     of a castle; and all the care that Cecilia Metella's husband could
+     bestow, to secure endless peace for her beloved relics, only
+     sufficed to make that handful of precious ashes the nucleus of
+     battles, long ages after her death."--_Hawthorne, Transformation._
+
+    "There is a stern round tower of other days,
+    Firm as a fortress, with its fence of stone,
+    Such as an army's baffled strength delays,
+    Standing with half its battlements alone,
+    And with two thousand years of ivy grown,
+    The garland of eternity, where wave
+    The green leaves over all by time o'erthrown;--
+    What was this tower of strength? within its cave
+    What treasure lay so lock'd, so hid?--a woman's grave.
+
+    "But who was she, the lady of the dead,
+    Tomb'd in a palace? Was she chaste and fair?
+    Worthy a king's--or more--a Roman's bed?
+    What race of chiefs and heroes did she bear?
+    What daughter of her beauties was the heir?
+    How lived--how loved--how died she? Was she not
+    So honoured--and conspicuously there,
+    Where meaner relics must not dare to rot,
+    Placed to commemorate a more than mortal lot?
+
+    "Perchance she died in youth: it may be, bow'd
+    With woes far heavier than the ponderous tomb
+    That weigh'd upon her gentle dust, a cloud
+    Might gather o'er her beauty, and a gloom
+    In her dark eye, prophetic of the doom
+    Heaven gives its favourites--early death; yet shed
+    A sunset charm around her, and illume
+    With hectic light, the Hesperus of the dead,
+    Of her consuming cheek the autumnal leaf-like red.
+
+    "Perchance she died in age--surviving all,
+    Charms, kindred, children--with the silver grey
+    On her long tresses, which might yet recall,
+    It may be, still a something of the day
+    When they were braided, and her proud array
+    And lovely form were envied, praised, and eyed
+    By Rome--but whither would Conjecture stray?
+    Thus much alone we know--Metella died,
+    The wealthiest Roman's wife: Behold his love or pride!"
+
+    _Childe Harold._
+
+Close to the tomb are the ruins of a Gothic church of the Caëtani.
+
+     "Le tombeau de Cecilia-Metella était devenu un château fort alors
+     aux mains des Caëtani, et autour du château s'était formé un
+     village avec son église, dont on a récemment retrouvé les
+     restes."--_Ampère, Voyage Dantesque._
+
+It is at Cecilia Metella's tomb that the beauties of the Via Appia
+really begin. A very short distance further, we emerge from the walls
+which have hitherto shut in the road on either side, and enjoy
+uninterrupted views over the Latin plain, strewn with its ruined castles
+and villages--and the long lines of aqueducts, to the Sabine and Alban
+mountains.
+
+     "The Via Appia is a magnificent promenade, amongst ruinous tombs,
+     the massive remains of which extend for many miles over the Roman
+     Campagna. The powerful families of ancient Rome loved to build
+     monuments to their dead by the side of the public road, probably to
+     exhibit at once their affection for their relations and their own
+     power and affluence. Most of these monuments are now nothing but
+     heaps of ruins, upon which are placed the statues and sculptures
+     which have been found in the earth or amongst the rubbish. Those
+     inscriptions which have been found on the Via Appia bear witness to
+     the grief of the living for the dead, but never to the hope of
+     reunion. On a great number of sarcophagi or the friezes of tombs
+     may be seen the dead sitting or lying as if they were alive, some
+     seem to be praying. Many heads have great individuality of
+     character. Sometimes a white marble figure, beautifully draped,
+     projects from these heaps of ruins, but without head or hands;
+     sometimes a hand is stretched out, or a portion of a figure rises
+     from the tomb. It is a street through monuments of the dead, across
+     an immense churchyard; for the desolate Roman Campagna may be
+     regarded as such. To the left it is scattered with the ruins of
+     colossal aqueducts, which, during the time of the emperors,
+     conveyed lakes and rivers to Rome, and which still, ruinous and
+     destroyed, delight the eye by the beautiful proportions of their
+     arcades. To the right is an immense prairie, without any other
+     limit than that of the ocean, which, however, is not seen from it.
+     The country is desolate, and only here and there are there any huts
+     or trees to be seen."--_Frederika Bremer._
+
+     "For the space of a mile or two beyond the gate of S. Sebastiano,
+     this ancient and famous road is as desolate and disagreeable as
+     most of the other Roman avenues. It extends over small,
+     uncomfortable paving-stones, between brick and plastered walls,
+     which are very solidly constructed, and so high as almost to
+     exclude a view of the surrounding country. The houses are of the
+     most uninviting aspect, neither picturesque, nor homelike and
+     social; they have seldom or never a door opening on the wayside,
+     but are accessible only from the rear, and frown inhospitably upon
+     the traveller through iron-grated windows. Here and there appears a
+     dreary inn, or a wine-shop, designated by the withered bush beside
+     the entrance, within which you discover a stone-built and
+     sepulchral interior, where guests refresh themselves with sour
+     bread and goat's-milk cheese, washed down with wine of dolorous
+     acerbity.
+
+     "At frequent intervals along the roadside, up rises the ruin of an
+     ancient tomb. As they stand now, these structures are immensely
+     high, and broken mounds of conglomerated brick, stone, pebbles, and
+     earth, all molten by time into a mass as solid and indestructible
+     as if each tomb were composed of a single boulder of granite. When
+     first erected, they were cased externally, no doubt, with slabs of
+     polished marble, artfully wrought, bas-reliefs, and all such
+     suitable adornments, and were rendered majestically beautiful by
+     grand architectural designs. This antique splendour has long since
+     been stolen from the dead, to decorate the palaces and churches of
+     the living. Nothing remains to the dishonoured sepulchres, except
+     their massiveness.
+
+     "Even the pyramids form hardly a stranger spectacle, or a more
+     alien from human sympathies, than the tombs of the Appian Way, with
+     their gigantic height, breadth, and solidity, defying time and the
+     elements, and far too mighty to be demolished by an ordinary
+     earthquake. Here you may see a modern dwelling, and a garden with
+     its vines and olive-trees, perched on the lofty dilapidation of a
+     tomb, which forms a precipice of fifty feet in depth on each of the
+     four sides. There is a house on that funeral mound, where
+     generations of children have been born, and successive lives have
+     been spent, undisturbed by the ghost of the stern Roman whose ashes
+     were so preposterously burdened. Other sepulchres wear a crown of
+     grass, shrubbery, and forest-trees, which throw out a broad sweep
+     of branches, having had time, twice over, to be a thousand years
+     of age. On one of them stands a tower, which, though immemorially
+     more modern than the tomb, was itself built by immemorial hands,
+     and is now rifted quite from top to bottom by a vast fissure of
+     decay; the tomb-hillock, its foundation, being still as firm as
+     ever, and likely to endure until the last trump shall rend it wide
+     asunder, and summon forth its unknown dead.
+
+     "Yes, its unknown dead! For, except in one or two doubtful
+     instances, these mountainous sepulchral edifices have not availed
+     to keep so much as the bare name of an individual or a family from
+     oblivion. Ambitious of everlasting remembrance as they were, the
+     slumberers might just as well have gone quietly to rest, each in
+     his pigeon-hole of a columbarium, or under his little green
+     hillock, in a grave-yard, without a headstone to mark the spot. It
+     is rather satisfactory than otherwise, to think that all these idle
+     pains have turned out so utterly abortive."--_Hawthorne._
+
+Near the fourth milestone, is the tomb of Marcus Servilius Quartus (with
+an inscription), restored by Canova in 1808. A bas-relief of the death
+of Atys, killed by Adrastus, a short distance beyond this, has been
+suggested as part of the tomb of Seneca, who was put to death "near the
+fourth milestone" by order of Nero. An inscribed tomb beyond this is
+that of Sextus Pompeius Justus.
+
+Near this, in the Campagna on the left, are some small remains, supposed
+to be those of a Temple of Juno.
+
+Beyond this a number of tombs can be identified, but none of any
+importance. Such are the tombs of Plinius Eutychius, erected by Plinius
+Zosimus, a freedman of Pliny the younger; of Caius Licinius; the Doric
+tomb of the tax-gatherer Claudius Philippanus, inscribed "Tito. Claudio.
+Secundo. Philippiano. Coactori. Flavia. Irene. Vxori Indulgentissimo;"
+of Rabinius, with three busts in relief; of Hermodorus; of Elsia Prima,
+priestess of Isis; of Marcus C. Cerdonus, with the bas-relief of an
+elephant bearing a burning altar.
+
+Beyond the fifth milestone, two circular mounds with basements of
+peperino, were considered by Canina to be the tombs of the Horatii and
+Curiatii.
+
+On the opposite side of the road is the exceedingly picturesque mediæval
+fortress, known as _Torre Mezza Strada_, into which are incorporated the
+remains of the Church of Sta. Maria Nuova, or della Gloria. Behind this
+extend a vast assemblage of ruins, which form a splendid foreground to
+the distant mountain view, and whose size has led to their receiving the
+popular epithet of _Roma Vecchia_. Here was the favourite villa of the
+Emperor Commodus, where he was residing, when the people, excited by a
+sudden impulse during the games of the Circus, rose and poured out of
+Rome against him--as the inhabitants of Paris to Versailles--and refused
+to depart, till, terrified into action by the entreaties of his
+concubine Marcia, he tossed the head of the unpopular Cleander to them
+out of the window, and had the brains of that minister's child dashed
+out against the stones. This villa is proved by the discovery of a
+number of pipes bearing their names to have been that of the brothers
+Condianus and Maximus, of the great family of the Quintilii, which was
+confiscated by Commodus.
+
+     "L'histoire des deux frères est intéressante et romanesque.
+     Condianus et Maximus Quintilius étaient distingués par la science,
+     les talents militaires, la richesse, et surtout par une tendresse
+     mutuelle qui ne s'était jamais démentie. Servant toujours ensemble,
+     l'un se faisait le lieutenant de l'autre. Bien qu'étrangers à toute
+     conspiration, leur vertu les fit soupçonner d'être peu favorables à
+     Commode; ils furent proscrits et moururent ensemble comme ils
+     avaient vécu. L'un d'eux avait un fils nommé Sextus. Au moment de
+     la mort de son père et de son oncle, ce fils se trouvait en Syrie.
+     Pensant bien que le même sort l'attendait, il feignit de mourir
+     pour sauver sa vie. Sextus, après avoir bu sang du lièvre, monta à
+     cheval, se laissa tomber, vomit le sang qu'il avait pris et qui
+     parut être son propre sang. On mit dans sa bière le corps d'un
+     bélier qui passa pour son cadavre, et il disparut. Depuis ce temps,
+     il erra sons divers déguisements; mais on sut qu'il avait échappé,
+     et on se mit à sa recherche. Beaucoup furent tués parce-qu'ils lui
+     ressemblaient ou parce-qu'ils étaient soupçonnés de lui avoir donné
+     asile. Il n'est pas bien sûr qu'il ait été atteint, que sa tête se
+     trouvât parmi celles qu'on apporta à Rome et qu'on dit être la
+     sienne. Ce qui est certain, c'est qu'après la mort de Commode, un
+     aventurier, tenté par la belle villa et par les grandes richesses
+     des Quintilii, se donna pour Sextus et réclama son héritage. Il
+     paraît ne pas avoir manqué d'adresse et avoir connu celui pour
+     lequel il voulut qu'on le prît, car par ses réponses il se tira
+     très-bien de toutes les enquêtes. Peut-être s'était-il lié avec
+     Sextus et l'avait-il assassiné ensuite. Cependant l'empereur
+     Pertinax, successeur de Commode, l'ayant fait venir, eut l'idée de
+     lui parler grec. Le vrai Sextus connaissait parfaitement cette
+     langue. Le faux Sextus, qui ne savait pas le grec, répondit tout de
+     travers, et sa fraude fut ainsi découverte."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii.
+     253.
+
+On the left of the Via Appia, appears a huge monument, on a narrow base,
+called the Tomb of the Metelli. Beyond this, after the fifth milestone,
+are the tombs of Sergius Demetrius, a wine merchant; of Lucius Arrius;
+of Septimia Gallia; and of one of the Cæcilii, in whose sepulchre,
+according to Eutropius, was buried Pomponius Atticus, the friend of
+Cicero, whose daughter Vipsania was the first wife of Agrippa, and whose
+granddaughter Vipsania Agrippina was the first wife of Tiberius.
+
+Close to the sixth milestone is the mass of masonry sometimes called
+"Casale Rotondo," or "Cotta's Tomb," from that name being found there
+inscribed on a stone, but generally attributed to Messala Corvinus, the
+poet, and friend of Horace, and believed to have been raised to him by
+his son Valerius Maximus Cotta, mentioned in Ovid.
+
+    "Te autem in turba non ausim, Cotta, silere,
+    Pieridum lumen, præsidiumque fori."
+
+    _Epist._ xvi.
+
+This tomb was even larger than that of Cecilia Metella, and was turned
+into a fortress by the Orsini in the fifteenth century.
+
+Beyond this are tombs identified as those of P. Quintius, tribune of the
+sixteenth legion; Marcus Julius, steward of Claudius; Publius Decumius
+Philomusus (with appropriate bas-reliefs of two mice nibbling a cake);
+and of Cedritius Flaccianius.
+
+Passing on the left the _Tor di Selce_, erected upon a huge unknown
+tomb, are the tombs of Titia Eucharis, and of Atilius Evodus, jeweller
+(margaritarius) on the Via Sacra, with the inscription, "Hospes
+resiste--aspice ubi continentur ossa hominis boni misericordis amantis
+pauperis." Near the eighth milestone are ruins attributed to the temples
+of Silvanus and of Hercules,--of which the latter is mentioned in
+Martial's Epigrams, beyond which were the villas of Bassus and of
+Persius. The last tomb identified is that of Quintus Verranius. Near the
+ninth milestone is a tomb supposed to be that of Gallienus (Imp. 268),
+who lived close by in a villa, amid the ruins of which "the Discobolus"
+was discovered.
+
+From the stream called Pontecello, near the tenth milestone, the road
+gradually ascends to Albano, passing several large but unnamed tombs. At
+the Osteria delle Frattocchie it joins the Via Appia Nuova. Close to the
+gate of Albano, it passes on the left the tall tomb attributed to Pompey
+the Great, in accordance with the statement of Plutarch, and in spite of
+the epigram of Varro Atacinus, which says:--
+
+    "Marmoreo Licinius tumulo jacet; at Cato parvo;
+    Pompeius nullo: quis putet esse Deus."
+
+Among the many processions which have passed along this road, perhaps
+the most remarkable have been that bearing back to Rome the dead body of
+Sylla, who died at Pozzuoli, "in a gilt litter, with royal ornaments,
+trumpets before him, and horsemen behind;"[223] and the funeral of
+Augustus, who dying at Nola (A.D. 14), was brought to Bovillæ, and
+remained there a month in the sanctuary of the Julian family, after
+which the knights brought the body in solemn procession to his palace on
+the Palatine.
+
+But throughout a walk along the Appian Way, the one great Christian
+interest of this world-famous road, will, to the Christian visitor,
+overpower all others.
+
+     "And so we went toward Rome.
+
+     "And from thence, when the brethren heard of us, they came to meet
+     us as far as Appii-forum, and the Three Taverns: whom when Paul
+     saw, he thanked God, and took courage.
+
+     "And when we came to Rome, the centurion delivered the prisoners to
+     the captain of the guard; but Paul was suffered to dwell by
+     himself, with a soldier that kept him."--_Acts_ xxviii. 14--16.
+
+     "It is not without its manifold uses to remember that, amidst the
+     dim and wavering traditions of later times, one figure at least
+     stands out clear and distinct and undoubted, and this figure is the
+     Apostle Paul. He, whatever we may think concerning any other
+     apostle or apostolic man in connection with Rome, he, beyond a
+     shadow of doubt, appears in the New Testament as her great teacher.
+     No criticism or scepticism of modern times has ever questioned the
+     perfect authenticity of that last chapter of the Acts, which gives
+     the account of his journey, stage by stage, till he set foot within
+     the walls of the city. However much we may be compelled to distrust
+     any particular traditions concerning special localities of his life
+     and death, we cannot doubt for a moment that his eye rested on the
+     same general view of sky and plain and mountain; that his feet trod
+     the pavement of the same Appian road; that his way lay through the
+     same long avenue of ancient tombs on which we now look and wonder;
+     that he entered (and there we have our last authentic glimpse of
+     his progress) through the arch of Drusus, and then is lost to our
+     view in the great Babylon of Rome."--_A. P. Stanley's Sermons._
+
+     "When St. Paul was approaching Rome, all the bases of the mountains
+     were (as indeed they are partially now) clustered round with the
+     villas and gardens of wealthy citizens. The Appian Way climbs and
+     then descends along its southern slope. After passing Lanuvium it
+     crossed a crater-like valley or immense substructions, which still
+     remain. Here is Aricia, an easy stage from Rome. The town was above
+     the road, and on the hillside swarms of beggars beset travellers as
+     they passed. On the summit of the next rise, Paul of Tarsus would
+     obtain his first view of Rome. There is no doubt that the prospect
+     was, in many respects, very different from the view which is now
+     obtained from the same spot. It is true that the natural features
+     of the scene are unaltered. The long wall of blue Sabine mountains,
+     with Soracte in the distance, closed in the Campagna, which
+     stretched far across to the sea and round the base of the Alban
+     hills. But ancient Rome was not, like modern Rome, impressive from
+     its solitude, standing alone, with its one conspicuous cupola, in
+     the midst of a desolate though beautiful waste. St. Paul would see
+     a vast city, covering the Campagna, and almost continuously
+     connected by its suburbs with the villas on the hill where he
+     stood, and with the bright towns which clustered on the sides of
+     the mountains opposite. Over all the intermediate space were the
+     houses and gardens, through which aqueducts and roads might be
+     traced in converging lines towards the confused mass of edifices
+     which formed the city of Rome. Here no conspicuous building,
+     elevated above the rest, attracted the eye or the imagination.
+     Ancient Rome had neither cupola nor campanile, still less had it
+     any of those spires which give life to all the capitals of northern
+     Christendom. It was a widespread aggregate of buildings, which,
+     though separated by narrow streets and open spaces, appeared, when
+     seen from near Aricia, blended into one indiscriminate mass: for
+     distance concealed the contrasts which divided the crowded
+     habitations of the poor and the dark haunts of filth and
+     misery--from the theatres and colonnades, the baths, the temples,
+     and palaces with gilded roofs, flashing back the sun.
+
+     "The road descended into the plain at Bovillæ, six miles from
+     Aricia: and thence it proceeded in a straight line, with the
+     sepulchres of illustrious families on either hand. One of these was
+     the burial-place of the Julian gens, with which the centurion who
+     had charge of the prisoners was in some way connected. As they
+     proceeded over the old pavement, among gardens and modern houses,
+     and approached nearer the busy metropolis--the 'conflux issuing
+     forth or entering in' in various costumes and on various
+     errands,--vehicles, horsemen, and foot-passengers, soldiers and
+     labourers, Romans and foreigners,--became more crowded and
+     confusing. The houses grew closer. They were already in Rome. It
+     was impossible to define the commencement of the city. Its populous
+     portions extended far beyond the limits marked out by Servius. The
+     ancient wall, with its once sacred pomoerium, was rather an
+     object for antiquarian interest, like the walls of York or Chester,
+     than any protection against the enemies, who were kept far aloof by
+     the legions on the frontier.
+
+     "Yet the Porta Capena is a spot which we can hardly leave without
+     lingering for a moment. Under this arch--which was perpetually
+     dripping with the water of the aqueduct that went over it--had
+     passed all those who, since a remote period of the republic, had
+     travelled by the Appian Way,--victorious generals with their
+     legions, returning from foreign service,--emperors and courtiers,
+     vagrant representatives of every form of heathenism, Greeks and
+     Asiatics, Jews and Christians. From this point entering within the
+     city, Julius and his prisoners moved on, with the Aventine on their
+     left, close round the base of the Coelian, and through the hollow
+     ground which lay between this hill and the Palatine: thence over
+     the low ridge called Velia, where afterwards was built the arch of
+     Titus, to commemorate the destruction of Jerusalem; and then
+     descending, by the _Via Sacra_, into that space which was the
+     centre of imperial power and imperial magnificence, and associated
+     also with the most glorious recollections of the republic. The
+     Forum was to Rome, what the Acropolis was to Athens, the heart of
+     all the characteristic interest of the place. Here was the
+     _Milliarium Aureum_, to which the roads of all the provinces
+     converged. All around were the stately buildings, which were raised
+     in the closing years of the republic, and by the earlier emperors.
+     In front was the Capitoline Hill, illustrious long before the
+     invasion of the Gauls. Close on the left, covering that hill, whose
+     name is associated in every modern European language with the
+     notion of imperial splendour, were the vast ranges of the
+     _palace_--the 'house of Cæsar' (Philipp. iv. 22). Here were the
+     household troops quartered in a _prætorium_ attached to the palace.
+     And here (unless, indeed, it was in the great Prætorian Camp
+     outside the city wall) Julius gave up his prisoner to Burrus, the
+     Prætorian Prefect, whose official duty it was to keep in custody
+     all accused persons who were to be tried before the
+     Emperor."--_Conybeare and Howson._
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+THE QUIRINAL AND VIMINAL.
+
+     Palazzo Barberini--Palazzo Albani--S. Carlo a Quattro Fontane--S.
+     Andrea a Monte Cavallo--Quirinal Palace--Palazzo della
+     Consulta--Palazzo Rospigliosi--Colonna Gardens and Temple of the
+     Sun--S. Silvestro a Monte Cavallo--Sta. Caterina di Siena--SS.
+     Domenico e Sisto--Sta. Agata dei Goti--Sta. Maria in Monte--S.
+     Lorenzo Pane e Perna--Sta. Pudenziana--S. Paolo Primo Eremita--S.
+     Dionisio--S. Vitale.
+
+
+It is difficult to determine the exact limits of what in ancient times
+were regarded as the Quirinal and Viminal hills. They, like the
+Esquiline and Coelian, are "in fact merely spurs or tongues of hill,
+projecting inwards from a common base, the broad table-land, which
+slopes on the other side almost imperceptibly into the Campagna."[224]
+That, which is described in this chapter as belonging to these two
+hills, is chiefly the district to the right of the Via Quattro Fontane,
+and its continuations--which extend in a straight line to Sta. Maria
+Maggiore.
+
+The Quirinal, like all the other hills, except the Palatine and the
+Coelian, belonged to the Sabines in the early period of Roman history,
+and is full of records of their occupation. They had a Capitol here
+which is believed to have been long anterior to that on the Capitoline,
+and which was crowned by a temple of Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. This
+Sabine capitol occupied the site of the present Palazzo Rospigliosi.
+
+The name Quirinal is derived from the Sabine word _Quiris_--signifying a
+lance, which gave the Sabines their name of Quirites, or lance-bearers,
+and to their god the name Quirinus.[225] After his death Romulus
+received this title, and an important temple was raised to him on the
+Quirinal by Numa,[226] under this name, thus identifying him with Janus
+Quirinus, the national god. This temple was surrounded by a sacred grove
+mentioned by Ovid.[227] It was rebuilt by the consul L. Papirius Cursor,
+to commemorate his triumph after the third Samnite war, B.C. 293, when
+he adorned it with a sun-dial (_solarium horologium_), the first set up
+in Rome, which, however, not being constructed for the right latitude,
+did not show the time correctly. This defect was not remedied till
+nearly a century afterwards, when Q. Marcius Philippus set up a correct
+dial.[228] In front of this temple grew two celebrated myrtle-trees, one
+called _Patricia_, the other _Plebeia_, which shared the fortunes of
+their respective orders, as the orange-tree at Sta. Sabina now does that
+of the Dominicans. Thus, up to the fifth century, Patricia flourished
+gloriously, and Plebeia pined; but from the time when the plebeians
+completely gained the upper hand, Patricia withered away.[229] The
+temple was rebuilt by Augustus, and Dion Cassius states that the number
+of pillars by which it was surrounded accorded with that of the years of
+his life.[230]
+
+Adjoining the temple was a portico:
+
+    "Vicini pete porticum Quirini:
+    Turbam non habet otiosiorem
+    Pompeius."
+
+    _Martial_, xi. Ep. i.
+
+                     ----"Officium cras
+    Primo sole mihi peragendum in valle Quirini."
+
+    _Juvenal, Sat._ ii. 132.
+
+Hard by was a temple of Fortuna Publica,
+
+    "Qui dicet, Quondam sacrata est colle Quirini
+    Hac Fortuna die Publica; verus erit."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ iv. 375.
+
+also an altar to Mamurius, an ancient Sabine divinity, probably
+identical with Mars, and a temple of Salus, or Health, which gave a name
+to the Porta Salutaria, which must have stood nearly on the site of the
+present Quattro Fontane, and near which, not inappropriately, was a
+temple of Fever, in the Via S. Vitale, where fever is still prevalent.
+
+The site of the temple of Quirinus is ascertained to have been nearly
+that now occupied by S. Andrea a Monte Cavallo. On the opposite side of
+the street, where part of the papal palace now stands, was the temple of
+Semo-Sanctus, the reputed father of Sabinus. Between these two temples
+was the House of Pomponius Atticus (the friend and correspondent of
+Cicero), a situation which gave an opportunity for the witticism of
+Cicero when he said that Caesar would rather dwell with Quirinus than
+with Salus, meaning that he would rather be at war than be in good
+health.[231]
+
+In the same neighbourhood lived Martial the epigrammatist, "on the
+third floor, in a narrow street," whence he had a view as far as the
+portico of Agrippa, near the Flaminian Way. Below, probably on the site
+now occupied by the Piazza Barberini, was a Circus of Flora.
+
+    "Mater, ades, florum, ludis celebranda jocosis:
+      Distuleram partes mense priore tuas.
+    Incipis Aprili: transis in tempora Maii.
+      Alter te, fugiens; cum venit, alter habet.
+    Quum tua sint cedantque tibi confinia mensum,
+      Convenit in laudes ille vel ille tuas.
+    Circus in hunc exit, clamataque palma theatris:
+      Hoc quoque cum Circi munere carmen eat."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ v. 183.
+
+Among the great families who lived on the Quirinal were the Cornelii,
+who had a street of their own, _Vicus Corneliorum_, probably on the
+slopes behind the present Colonna Palace; and the Flavii, who were of
+Sabine origin.[232] Domitian was born here in the house of the Flavii,
+afterwards consecrated by him as a temple, in which Vespasian, Titus,
+and Domitian himself were buried, and Julia the ugly daughter of
+Titus--well known from her statues in the Vatican.
+
+As some fragments remain of the two buildings erected on the Quirinal
+during the later empire, Aurelian's Temple of the Sun, and the Baths of
+Constantine, they will be noticed in the regular course.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+On the ascent of the hill, just above the Piazza del Tritone, is the
+noble _Barberini Palace_, built by Urban VIII. from designs of Carlo
+Maderno, continued by Borromini, and finished by Bernini, in 1640. It is
+screened from the street by a magnificent railing between columns,
+erected 1865--67, and if this railing could be continued, and the block
+of houses towards the piazza removed, it would be far the most splendid
+private palace in Rome.
+
+This immense building is a memorial of the magnificence and ambition of
+Urban VIII. Its size is enormous, the smallest apartment in the palace
+containing forty rooms. The Prince at present inhabits the right wing;
+with him lives his elder brother the Duke, who abdicated the family
+honours in his favour. In the left wing--occupied in the beginning of
+this century by the ex-king (Charles VII.) and queen of Spain, and the
+"Prince of Peace"--is the huge apartment of the late Cardinal Barberini,
+now uninhabited. On this side is the grand staircase, upon which is
+placed a lion in high relief, found on the family property at
+Palestrina. It is before this lion that Canova is said to have lain for
+hours upon the pavement, studying for his tomb of Clement XIII. in St.
+Peter's. The _guarda-roba_, badly kept, contains many curious relics of
+family grandeur; amongst them is a sedan-chair, painted by Titian.
+
+The _Library_ (open on Thursdays from nine to two) contains a most
+valuable collection of MSS., about 7000 in number, brought together by
+Cardinal Francesco Barberini, nephew of Urban VIII. They include
+collections of letters of Galileo, Bembo, and Bellarmine; the official
+reports to Urban VIII., relating to the state of Catholicism in England
+in the time of Charles I.; a copy of the Bible in the Samaritan
+character; a Bible of the fourth century; several MSS. copies of Dante;
+a missal illuminated by Ghirlandajo; and a book of sketches of ancient
+Roman edifices, of 1465, by Giuliano de Sangallo,--most interesting to
+the antiquarian and architect, as preserving the forms of many public
+buildings which have disappeared since that date. Among the 50,000
+printed books is a Hebrew Bible of 1788, one of the twelve known copies
+of the complete edition of Soncino; a Latin Plato, by Ficino, with
+marginal notes by Tasso and his father Bernardo; a Dante of 1477, with
+notes by Bembo, &c.
+
+In the right wing is a huge _Hall_ (adorned with second-rate statues),
+with a grand ceiling by _Pietro da Cortona_ (1596--1669), representing
+"Il Trionfo della Gloria," the Forge of Vulcan, Minerva annihilating the
+Titans, and other mythological subjects--much admired by Lanzi, and
+considered by Kugler to be the most important work of the artist. Four
+vast frescoes of the Fathers of the Church are preserved here, having
+been removed from the dome of St. Peter's, where they were replaced with
+mosaics by Urban VIII. Below are other frescoes by _Pietro da Cortona_,
+a portrait of Urban VIII., and some tapestries illustrative of the
+events of his reign and of his own intense self-esteem--thus the Virgin
+and Angels are represented bringing in the ornaments of the papacy at
+his coronation, &c. But the conceit of Pope Urban reaches its climax in
+a room at the top of the house, which exhibits a number of the Barberini
+bees (the family crest) flocking against the sun, and eclipsing it--to
+typify the splendour of the family. The Will of Pope Urban VIII. is a
+very curious document, providing against the extinction of the family in
+every apparent contingency; this, however, now seems likely to take
+place; the heir is a Sciarra. The pillars in front of the palace, and
+all the surrounding buildings, teem with the bees of the Barberini,
+which may also be seen on the Propaganda and many other great Roman
+edifices, and which are creeping up the robe of Urban VIII. in St.
+Peter's.
+
+     "The Barberini were the last papal nephews who aspired to
+     independent principalities. Urban VIII., though he enriched them
+     enormously, appears to have been but little satisfied with them. He
+     used to complain that he had four relations who were fit for
+     nothing, the first, Cardinal Francesco, was a saint, and worked no
+     miracles: the second, Cardinal Antonio, was a monk, and had no
+     patience: the third, Cardinal Antonio the younger, was an orator
+     (_i.e._ an ambassador), and did not know how to speak: and the
+     fourth was a general, who could not draw a sword."--_Goethe,
+     Romische Briefe._
+
+On the right, on entering the palace, is the small _Collection of
+Pictures_ (open when the custode chooses to be there), indifferently
+lodged for a building so magnificent. We may notice:--
+
+     _2nd Room._--
+
+    34. Urban VIII.: _Andrea Sacchi_.
+    35. A Cardinal: _Titian_.
+    48. Madonna and Child, St. John, and St Jerome: _Francia_.
+    54. Madonna and Child: _Sodoma_.
+    58. Madonna and Child: _Giovanni Bellini_.
+    63. Daughter of Raphael Mengs: _Mengs_.
+    67. Portrait of himself: _Masaccio_.
+    74. Adam and Eve: _Domenichino_.
+
+     _3rd Room._--
+
+     73. The "Schiava:" _Palma Vecchio_.
+
+     "The so-called Slave (a totally unmeaning name) is probably a mere
+     school picture, of grand beauty, but with too clumsy a style of
+     drapery, too cold an expression, and too brown a carnation for
+     Titian--to whom it is attributed."--_Kugler._
+
+     76. Castel Gandolfo: _Claude Lorraine_.
+
+     78. Portrait: _Bronzino_.
+
+     79. Christ among the Doctors--painted in five days, in 1506:
+     _Albert Durer_.
+
+     81. "The mother of Beatrice Cenci"? _Caravaggio_.
+
+     82. The Fornarina (with the painter's name on the armlet):
+     _Raphael_.
+
+     "The history of this person, to whom Raphael was attached even to
+     his death, is obscure, nor are we very clear with regard to her
+     likenesses. In the tribune at Florence there is a portrait,
+     inscribed with the date 1512, of a very beautiful woman holding the
+     fur trimming of her mantle with her right hand, which is said to
+     represent her. The picture is decidedly by Raphael, but can hardly
+     represent the Fornarina; at least it has no resemblance to this
+     portrait, which has the name of Raphael on the armlet, and of the
+     authenticity of which (particularly with respect to the subject)
+     there can hardly be a doubt. In this the figure is seated, and is
+     uncovered to the waist; she draws a light drapery around her; a
+     shawl is twisted round her head. The execution is beautiful and
+     delicate, although the lines are sufficiently defined; the forms
+     are fine and not without beauty, but at the same time not free from
+     an expression of coarseness and common life. The eyes are large,
+     dark, and full of fire, and seem to speak of brighter days. There
+     are repetitions of this picture, from the school of Raphael, in
+     Roman galleries."--_Kugler._
+
+    86. Death of Germanicus: _Poussin._
+    88. Seaport: _Claude Lorraine._
+    90. Holy Family: _Andrea del Sarto._
+    93. Annunciation: _Botticelli._
+
+But the interest of this collection centres entirely around two
+portraits--that (81) of Lucrezia, the unhappy wife of Francesco Cenci,
+by _Scipione Gaetani_, and that (85) of Beatrice Cenci, by _Guido Reni_.
+
+     "The portrait of Beatrice Cenci is most interesting as a just
+     representation of one of the loveliest specimens of the workmanship
+     of nature. There is a fixed and pale composure upon the features;
+     she seems sad and stricken down in spirit, yet the despair thus
+     expressed is lightened by the patience of gentleness. Her head is
+     bound with folds of white drapery, from which the yellow strings of
+     her golden hair escape, and fall about her neck. The moulding of
+     her face is exquisitely delicate; the eyebrows are distinct and
+     arched; the lips have that permanent meaning of imagination and
+     sensibility which suffering has not repressed, and which it seems
+     as if death scarcely could extinguish. Her forehead is large and
+     clear; her eyes, which we are told were remarkable for their
+     vivacity, are swollen with weeping, and lustreless, but beautifully
+     tender and serene. In the whole mien there is a simplicity and
+     dignity, which, united with her exquisite loveliness and deep
+     sorrow, is inexpressibly pathetic. Beatrice Cenci appears to have
+     been one of those persons in whom energy and gentleness dwell
+     together without destroying one another; her nature simple and
+     profound. The crimes and miseries in which she was an actor and
+     sufferer, are as the mask and the mantle in which circumstances
+     clothed her for her impersonation on the scene of the
+     world."--_Shelley's Preface to the Cenci._
+
+     "The picture of Beatrice Cenci represents simply a female head; a
+     very youthful, girlish, perfectly beautiful face, enveloped in
+     white drapery, from beneath which strays a lock or two of what
+     seems a rich, though hidden luxuriance of auburn hair. The eyes are
+     large and brown, and meet those of the spectator, evidently with a
+     strange, ineffectual effort to escape. There is a little redness
+     about the eyes, very slightly indicated, so that you would question
+     whether or no the girl had been weeping. The whole face is very
+     quiet; there is no distortion or disturbance of any single feature;
+     nor is it easy to see why the expression is not cheerful, or why a
+     single touch of the artist's pencil should not brighten it into
+     joyousness. But, in fact, it is the very saddest picture ever
+     painted or conceived; it involves an unfathomable depth of sorrow,
+     the sense of which comes to the observer by a sort of intuition. It
+     is a sorrow that removes this beautiful girl out of the sphere of
+     humanity, and sets her in a far-off region, the remoteness of
+     which, while yet her face is so close before us,--makes us shiver
+     as at a spectre. You feel all the time you look at Beatrice, as if
+     she were trying to escape from your gaze. She knows that her sorrow
+     is so strange and immense, that she ought to be solitary for ever
+     both for the world's sake and her own; and this is the reason we
+     feel such a distance between Beatrice and ourselves, even when our
+     eyes meet hers. It is infinitely heart-breaking to meet her glance,
+     and to know that nothing can be done to help or comfort her,
+     neither does she ask help or comfort, knowing the hopelessness of
+     her case better than we do. She is a fallen angel--fallen and yet
+     sinless: and it is only this depth of sorrow with its weight and
+     darkness, that keeps her down to earth, and brings her within our
+     view even while it sets her beyond our reach."--_Hawthorne,
+     Transformation._
+
+     "The portrait of Beatrice Cenci is a picture almost impossible to
+     be forgotten. Through the transcendent sweetness and beauty of the
+     face, there is a something shining out that haunts me. I see it
+     now, as I see this paper, or my pen. The head is loosely draped in
+     white; the light hair falling down below the linen folds. She has
+     turned suddenly towards you; and there is an expression in the
+     eyes--although they are very tender and gentle--as if the wildness
+     of a momentary terror, or distraction, had been struggled with and
+     overcome, that instant; and nothing but a celestial hope, and a
+     beautiful sorrow, and a desolate earthly helplessness remained.
+     Some stories say that Guido painted it the night before her
+     execution; some other stories, that he painted it from memory,
+     after having seen her on her way to the scaffold. I am willing to
+     believe that, as you see her on his canvas, so she turned towards
+     him, in the crowd, from the first sight of the axe, and stamped
+     upon his mind a look which he has stamped on mine as though I had
+     stood beside him in the concourse. The guilty palace of the Cenci:
+     blighting a whole quarter of the town, as it stands withering away
+     by grains: had that face, to my fancy, in its dismal porch, and at
+     its black blind windows, and flitting up and down its dreary
+     stairs, and growing out of the darkness of its ghostly galleries.
+     The history is written in the painting; written, in the dying
+     girl's face, by Nature's own hand. And oh! how in that one touch
+     she puts to flight (instead of making kin) the puny world that
+     claims to be related to her, in right of poor conventional
+     forgeries!"--_Dickens._
+
+     "Five days had been passed by Beatrice in the secret prisons of the
+     Torre Savella, when, at an early hour in the morning, her advocate,
+     Farinacci, entered her sad abode. With him appeared a young man of
+     about twenty-five years of age, dressed in the fashion of a writer
+     in the courts of justice of that day. Unheeded by Beatrice, he sat
+     regarding her at a little distance with fixed attention. She had
+     risen from her miserable pallet, but, unlike the wretched inmate of
+     a dungeon, she seemed a being from a brighter sphere. Her eyes were
+     of liquid softness, her forehead large and clear, her countenance
+     of angelic purity, mysteriously beautiful. Around her head a fold
+     of white muslin had been carelessly wrapped, from whence in rich
+     luxuriance fell her fair and waving hair. Profound sorrow imparted
+     an air of touching sensibility to her lovely features. With all the
+     eagerness of hope, she begged Farinacci to tell her frankly if his
+     visit foreboded good, and assured him of her gratitude for the
+     anxiety he evinced, to save her life and that of her family.
+
+     "Farinacci conversed with her for some time, while at a distance
+     sat his companion, sketching the features of Beatrice. Turning
+     round, she observed this with displeasure and surprise; Farinacci
+     explained that this seeming writer was the celebrated painter,
+     Guido Reni, who, earnestly desiring her picture, had entreated to
+     be introduced into the prison for the purpose of obtaining so rich
+     an acquisition. At first unwilling, but afterwards consenting, she
+     turned and said, 'Signor Guido, your renown might make me desirous
+     of knowing you, but how will you undervalue me in my present
+     situation. From the fatality that surrounds me, you will judge me
+     guilty. Perhaps my face will tell you I am not wicked; it will show
+     you, too, that I now languish in this prison, which I may quit,
+     only to ascend the scaffold. Your great name, and my sad story, may
+     make my portrait interesting, and,' she added, with touching
+     simplicity, 'the picture will awaken compassion if you write on one
+     of its angles the word, _innocente_.' The great artist set himself
+     to work, and produced the picture now in the Palazzo Barberini, a
+     picture that rivets the attention of every beholder, which, once
+     seen, ever after hovers over the memory with an interest the most
+     harrowing and mysterious."--_From "Beatrice Cenci, Storia del
+     Secolo XVI., Raccontata dal D.A.A., Firenze." Whiteside's
+     Translation._
+
+There is a pretty old-fashioned garden belonging to this palace, at one
+corner of which--overhanging an old statue--was the celebrated
+_Barberini Pine_, often drawn by artists from the Via Sterrata at the
+back of the garden, where statue and pine combined well with the Church
+of S. Caio; but, alas, this magnificent tree was cut down in 1872.
+
+At the back of the palace-court, behind the arched bridge leading to the
+garden, is--let into the wall--an inscription which formed part of the
+dedication of an arch erected to Claudius by the senate and people, in
+honour of the conquest of Britain. The letters were inlaid with bronze.
+It was found near the Palazzo Sciarra, where the arch is supposed to
+have stood.
+
+Ascending to the summit of the hill, we find four ugly statues of
+river-gods, lying over the _Quattro Fontane_, from which the street
+takes its name.
+
+On the left is the _Palazzo Albani_, recently restored by Queen
+Christina of Spain.
+
+     "In one of its rooms is a very ancient painting of Jupiter and
+     Ganymede, in a very uncommon style, uniting considerable grandeur
+     of conception, great force and decision, and a deep tone and colour
+     which produce great effect. It is said to be Grecian."--_Eaton's
+     Rome._
+
+The opposite church, _S. Carlo a Quattro Fontane_, is worth observing
+from the fact that the whole building, church and convent, corresponds
+with one of the four piers supporting the cupola of St. Peter's. Here
+was formed the point of attack against the Quirinal Palace, November 16,
+1848, which caused the flight of Pius IX., and the downfall of his
+government. From a window of this convent the shot was fired which
+killed Monsignor Palma, one of the pontifical secretaries, and a writer
+on ecclesiastical history--who had unfortunately exposed himself at one
+of the windows opposite. The church contains two pictures by _Mignard_
+relating to the history of S. Carlo.
+
+Turning down Via del Quirinale, on the left is _S. Andrea a Monte
+Cavallo_ (on the supposed site of the temple of Quirinus), erected, as
+it is told by an inscription inside, by Camillo Pamphili, nephew of
+Innocent X., from designs of Bernini. It has a Corinthian façade and a
+projecting semicircular portico with Ionic columns. The interior is
+oval. It is exceedingly rich, being almost entirely lined with red
+marble streaked with white (Sicilian jasper), divided by white marble
+pillars supporting a gilt cupola. The high altar--supposed to cover the
+body of St. Zeno--between really magnificent pillars, is surmounted by a
+fine picture, by _Borgognone_, of the crucifixion of St. Andrew. Near
+this is the tomb, by _Festa_, of Emmanuel IV., king of Sardinia, who
+abdicated his throne in 1802, to become a Jesuit monk in the adjoining
+convent, where he died in 1818. On the right is the chapel of Santa
+Croce, with three pictures of the passion and death of Christ by
+_Brandini_; and that of St. Francis Xavier, with three pictures by
+_Baciccio_, representing the saint preaching,--baptizing an Indian
+queen,--and lying dead in the island of Sancian in China. On the left
+is the chapel of the Virgin, with pictures, by _David_, of the three
+great Jesuit saints--St. Ignatius Loyola, St. Francis Borgia, and St.
+Luigi Gonzaga--adoring the Virgin, and, by _Gerard de la Nuit_, of the
+Adoration of the Shepherds and of the Magi; and lastly the chapel of S.
+Stanislas Kostka, containing his shrine of gold and lapis-lazuli, under
+an exceedingly rich altar, which is adorned with a beautiful picture by
+_Carlo Maratta_, representing the saint receiving the Infant Jesus from
+the arms of his mother. At the sides of the chapel are two other
+pictures by _Maratta_, one of which represents S. Stanislas "bathing
+with water his breast inflamed with divine love," the other his
+receiving the host from the hands of an angel. These are the three
+principal incidents in the story of the young S. Stanislas, who belonged
+to a noble Polish family and abandoned the world to shut himself up
+here, saying, "I am not born for the good things of this world; that
+which my heart desires is the good things of eternity."
+
+     "I have long ago exhausted all my capacity of admiration for
+     splendid interiors of churches; but methinks this little, little
+     temple (it is not more than fifty or sixty feet across) has a more
+     perfect and gem-like beauty than any other. Its shape is oval, with
+     an oval dome, and above that another little dome, both of which are
+     magnificently frescoed. Around the base of the larger dome is
+     wreathed a flight of angels, and the smaller and upper one is
+     encircled by a garland of cherubs--cherub and angel all of pure
+     white marble. The oval centre of the church is walled round with
+     precious and lustrous marble, of a red-veined variety, interspersed
+     with columns and pilasters of white; and there are arches, opening
+     through this rich wall, forming chapels, which the architect seems
+     to have striven hard to make even more gorgeous than the main body
+     of the church. The pavement is one star of various tinted
+     marble."--_Hawthorne, Notes on Italy._
+
+The adjoining _Convent of the Noviciate of the Order of Jesus_ contains
+the room in which S. Stanislas Kostka died, at the age of eighteen, with
+his reclining statue by _Le Gros_, the body in white, his dress (that of
+a novice) in black, and the couch upon which he lies in yellow marble.
+Behind his statue is a picture of a celestial vision which consoled him
+in his last moments. On the day of his death, November 13, the convent
+is thrown open, and mass is said without ceasing in this chamber, which
+is visited by thousands.
+
+     "La petite chambre de S. Stanislas Kostka, est un de ces lieux où
+     la prière naît spontanément dans le coeur, et s'en échappe comme
+     par un cours naturel."--_Veuillot, Parfum de Rome._[233]
+
+In the convent garden is shown the fountain where "the angels used to
+bathe the breast of S. Stanislas burning with the love of Christ."
+
+Passing the Benedictine convent, with a courtyard containing an old
+sarcophagus as a fountain, and a humble church decorated with rude
+frescoes of St. Benedict and Sta. Scholastica, we reach a small and
+popular church, rich in marbles, belonging to the _Perpetua Adoratrice
+del Divin Sacramento del Altare_, founded by sister Maddalena of the
+Incarnation, who died 1829, and is buried on the right of the entrance.
+Here the low monotonous chant of the perpetual adoration may be
+constantly heard.
+
+The _Piazza of the Monte Cavallo_ has in its centre the red granite
+obelisk (ninety-five feet high with its base) erected here by Antinori
+in 1781, for Pius VI. It was originally brought from Egypt by Claudius,
+A.D. 57, together with the obelisk now in front of Sta. Maria Maggiore,
+and they were both first placed at the entrance of the mausoleum of
+Augustus. At its base are the colossal statues found in the baths of
+Constantine, of the Dioscuri Castor and Pollux reining in their horses.
+These statues give a name to the district. Their bases bear the names of
+Phidias and Praxiteles, and though their claim to be the work of such
+distinguished sculptors is doubtful, they are certainly of Greek origin.
+Copies of these statues at Berlin have received the nicknames of
+Gehemmter Fortschritt, and Beförderter Rückschritt,--Progress checked
+and Retrogression encouraged.
+
+     "At the time when the _Mirabilia Romæ_ were published, that is,
+     about the thirteenth century, these statues were believed to
+     represent the young philosophers, Praxiteles and Phidias, who came
+     to Rome during the reign of Tiberius, and promised to tell him his
+     most secret words and actions provided he would honour them with a
+     monument. Having performed their promise, they obtained these
+     statues, which represent them naked, because all human science was
+     naked and open to their eyes. From this fable, wild and absurd as
+     it is, we may nevertheless draw the inference that the statues had
+     been handed down from time immemorial as the works of Phidias and
+     Praxiteles, though those artists had in the lapse of ages been
+     metamorphosed into philosophers. May we not also assume the
+     existence of a tradition that the statues were brought to Rome in
+     the reign of Tiberius? In the middle ages the group appears to have
+     been accompanied by a statue of Medusa, sitting at their feet, and
+     having before her a shell. According to the text of the
+     _Mirabilia_, as given by Montfaucon in his _Diarium Italicum_, this
+     figure represented the Church. The snakes which surrounded her
+     typified the volumes of Scripture, which nobody could approach
+     unless he had first been washed--that is, baptized--in the water of
+     the shell. But the Prague MS. of the _Mirabilia_ interprets the
+     female figure to represent Science, and the serpents to typify the
+     disputed questions with which she is concerned."--_Dyer's Hist. of
+     the City of Rome._
+
+     "L'imitation du grand style de Phidias est visible dans plusieurs
+     sculptures qu'il a inspirées, et surtout dans les colosses de
+     Castor et Pollux, domptant des chevaux, qui ont fait donner à une
+     partie du mont Quirinal le nom de _Monte Cavallo_.
+
+     "Il ne faut faire aucune attention aux inscriptions qui attribuent
+     un des deux colosses à Phidias et l'autre à Praxitèle, Praxitèle
+     dont le style n'a rien à faire ici; son nom a été inscrit sur la
+     base de l'une des deux statues, comme Phèdre le reprochait déjà à
+     des faussaires du temps d'Auguste, qui croyaient augmenter le
+     mérite d'un nouvel ouvrage en y mettant le nom de Praxitèle. Quelle
+     que soit l'époque où les colosses de Monte Cavallo ont été
+     exécutés, malgré quelques différences, on doit affirmer que les
+     deux originaux étaient de la même école, de l'école de
+     Phidias."--_Ampère, Hist. Romaine_, iii. 252.
+
+     "Chacun des deux héros dompte d'une seule main un cheval fougueux
+     qui se cabre. Ces formes colossales, cette lutte de l'homme avec
+     les animaux, donnent, comme tous les ouvrages des anciens, une
+     admirable idée de la puissance physique de la nature
+     humaine."--_Mad. de Staël._
+
+    "Ye too, marvellous Twain, that erect on the Monte Cavallo
+    Stand by your rearing steeds in the grace of your motionless movement,
+    Stand with your upstretched arms and tranquil regardant faces,
+    Stand as instinct with life in the might of immutable manhood,--
+    O ye mighty and strange, ye ancient divine ones of Hellas."
+
+    _A. H. Clough._
+
+     "Before me were the two Monte Cavallo statues, towering
+     gigantically above the pygmies of the present day, and looking like
+     Titans in the act of threatening heaven. Over my head the stars
+     were just beginning to look out, and might have been taken for
+     guardian angels keeping watch over the temples below. Behind, and
+     on my left, were palaces; on my right, gardens, and hills beyond,
+     with the orange tints of sunset over them still glowing in the
+     distance. Within a stone's throw of me, in the midst of objects
+     thus glorious in themselves, and thus in harmony with each other,
+     was stuck an unplaned post, on which glimmered a paper lantern.
+     Such is Rome."--_Guesses at Truth._
+
+Close by is a fountain playing into a fine bason of Egyptian granite,
+brought hither by Pius VII. from the Forum, where it had long been used
+for watering cattle.
+
+On the left, is the _Palace of the Consulta_, built in 1730 by Clement
+XII. (Corsini), from designs of Fuga. Before its gates, under the old
+regime, some of the Papal Guardia Nobile were always to be seen sunning
+themselves in a uniform so resplendent that it could scarcely be
+believed that the pay of this "noble guard" of the Pope amounted only to
+£5 6_s._ 3_d._ a month!
+
+On the right, is the immense _Palace of the Quirinal_, which also
+extends along one whole side of the street we have been pursuing.
+
+     "That palace-building, ruin-destroying pope, Paul IV., began to
+     erect the enormous palace on the Quirinal Hill; and the
+     prolongation of his labours, by a long series of successive
+     pontiffs, has made it one of the largest and ugliest buildings
+     extant."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+     The chief, indeed almost the only, interest of this palace arises
+     from its having been the favourite residence of Pius VII.
+     (Chiaramonte). It was here that he was taken prisoner by the
+     French. General Radet forced his way into the pope's room on the
+     night of June 6, 1809, and, while excusing himself for being the
+     messenger, hastily intimated to the pontiff, in the name of the
+     emperor, that he must at once abdicate his temporal sovereignty.
+     Pius absolutely refused, upon which he was forced to descend the
+     staircase, and found a coach waiting at the entrance of the palace.
+     Here the pope paused, his face streaming with tears, and, standing
+     in the starlit piazza, solemnly extended his arms in benediction
+     over his sleeping people. Then he entered the carriage, followed by
+     Cardinal Pacca, and was hurried away to exile.... "Whirled away
+     through the heat and dust of an Italian summer's day, without an
+     attendant, without linen, without his spectacles--fevered and
+     wearied, he never for a moment lost his serenity. Cardinal Pacca
+     tells us, that when they had just started on this most dismal of
+     journeys, the pope asked him if he had any money. The secretary of
+     state replied that he had had no opportunity of providing himself.
+     'We then drew forth our purses,' continues the cardinal, 'and
+     notwithstanding the state of affliction we were in at being thus
+     torn away from Rome, and all that was dear to us, we could hardly
+     compose our countenances, on finding the contents of each purse to
+     consist--of the pope's, of a papetto (10_d._), and of mine, of
+     three grossi (7-1/2_d._). We had precisely thirty-five baiocchi
+     between us. The pope, extending his hand, showed his papetto to
+     General Radet, saying, at the same time, 'Look here--this is all I
+     possess.'"[234].... Six years after, Napoleon was sent to St.
+     Helena, and Pius VII. returned in triumph to Rome!
+
+It was from this same palace that Pius IX.--who has never inhabited it
+since--made his escape to Gaeta during the revolution of 1848, when the
+siege of the Quirinal by the insurgents had succeeded in extorting the
+appointment of a democratic ministry.
+
+     "On the afternoon of the 24th of November, the Duc d'Harcourt had
+     arrived at the Quirinal in his coach as ambassador of France, and
+     craved an audience of the sovereign. The guards wondered that he
+     stayed so long; but they knew not that he sat reading the
+     newspapers in the papal study, while the pope had retired to his
+     bed-room to change his dress. Here his major-domo, Filippani, had
+     laid out the black cassock and dress of an ordinary priest. The
+     pontiff took off his purple stole and white pontifical robe, and
+     came forth in the simple garb he had worn in his quiet youth. The
+     Duc d'Harcourt threw himself on his knees exclaiming, 'Go forth,
+     holy Father; divine wisdom inspires this counsel, divine power will
+     lead it to a happy end.' By secret passages and narrow staircases,
+     Pius IX. and his trusty servant passed unseen to a little door,
+     used only occasionally for the Swiss guards, and by which they were
+     to leave the palace. They reached it, and bethought them that the
+     key had been forgotten! Filippani hastened back to the papal
+     apartment to fetch it; and returning unquestioned to the wicket,
+     found the pontiff on his knees, and quite absorbed in prayer. The
+     wards were rusty, and the key turned with difficulty; but the door
+     was opened at last, and the holy fugitive and his servant quickly
+     entered a poor hackney coach that was waiting for them outside.
+     Here, again, they ran risk of being discovered through the
+     thoughtless adherence to old etiquette of the other servant, who
+     stood by the coach, and who, having let down the steps, knelt, as
+     usual, before he shut the door.
+
+     "The pope wore a dark great coat over his priest's cassock, a
+     low-crowned round hat, and a broad brown woollen neckcloth outside
+     his straight Roman collar. Filippani had on his usual loose cloak;
+     but under this he carried the three-cornered hat of the pope, a
+     bundle of the most private and secret papers, the papal seals, the
+     breviary, the cross-embroidered slippers, a small quantity of
+     linen, and a little box full of gold medals stamped with the
+     likeness of his Holiness. From the inside of the carriage, he
+     directed the coachman to follow many winding and diverging streets,
+     in the hope of misleading the spies, who were known to swarm at
+     every corner. Beside the Church of SS. Pietro e Marcellino, in the
+     deserted quarter beyond the Coliseum, they found the Bavarian
+     minister, Count Spaur, waiting in his own private carriage, and
+     imagining every danger which could have detained them so long. The
+     sovereign pressed the hand of his faithful Filippani, and entered
+     the Count's carriage. Silently they drove on through the old gate
+     of Rome,--Count Spaur having there shown the passport of the
+     Bavarian minister going to Naples on affairs of state.
+
+     "Meanwhile the Duc d'Harcourt grew tired of reading the newspapers
+     in the pope's study; and when he thought that his Holiness must be
+     far beyond the walls of Rome, he left the palace, and taking
+     post-horses, hastened with all speed to overtake the fugitive on
+     the road to Civita Vecchia, whither he believed him to be flying.
+     As he left the study in the Quirinal, a prelate entered with a
+     large bundle of ecclesiastical papers, on which, he said, he had to
+     confer with the pope; then his chamberlain went in to read to him
+     his breviary, and the office of the day. The rooms were lighted up,
+     and the supper taken in as usual; and at length it was stated that
+     his Holiness, feeling somewhat unwell, had retired to rest; and his
+     attendants, and the guard of honour, were dismissed for the night.
+     It is true that a certain prelate, who chanced to see the little
+     door by which the fugitive had escaped into the street left open,
+     began to cry out, 'The pope has escaped! the pope has escaped!' But
+     Prince Gabrielli was beside him; and, clapping his hand upon the
+     mouth of the alarmist, silenced him in time, by whispering, 'Be
+     quiet, Monsignore; be quiet, or we shall be cut to pieces!'
+
+     "Near La Riccia, the fugitives found Countess Spaur (who had
+     arranged the whole plan of the escape) waiting with a coach and six
+     horses--in which they pursued their journey to Gaeta, reaching the
+     Neapolitan frontier between five and six in the morning. The pope
+     throughout carried with him the sacrament in the pyx which Pius the
+     Seventh carried when he was taken prisoner to France, and which, as
+     if with prescience of what would happen, had been lately sent to
+     him as a memorial by the Bishop of Avignon."--_Beste._
+
+It is in the Quirinal Palace that the later conclaves have always met
+for the election of the popes.
+
+     "In the afternoon of the last day of the novendiali, as they are
+     called, after the death of a pope, the cardinals assemble (at S.
+     Sylvestro a Monte Cavallo), and walk in procession, accompanied by
+     their conclavisti, a secretary, a chaplain, and a servant or two,
+     to the great gate of the royal residence, in which one will remain
+     as master and supreme lord. Of course the hill is crowded by
+     persons, lining the avenue kept open for the procession. Cardinals
+     never before seen by them, or not for many years, pass before
+     them; eager eyes scan and measure them, and try to conjecture, from
+     fancied omens in eye, in figure, or in expression, who will be
+     shortly the sovereign of their fair city; and, what is much more,
+     the head of the Catholic Church, from the rising to the setting
+     sun. They all enter equal over the threshold of that gate: they
+     share together the supreme rule, spiritual and temporal: there is
+     still embosomed in them all, the voice yet silent, that will soon
+     sound from one tongue over all the world, and the dormant germ of
+     that authority which will soon again be concentrated in one man
+     alone. To-day they are all equal; perhaps to-morrow one will sit
+     enthroned, and all the rest will kiss his feet; one will be
+     sovereign, and others his subjects; one the shepherd, and the
+     others his flock.
+
+            *       *       *       *       *
+
+     "From the Quirinal Palace stretches out, the length of a whole
+     street, an immense wing, divided in its two upper floors into a
+     great number of small but complete suites of apartments, occupied
+     permanently, or occasionally, by persons attached to the Court.
+     During conclave these are allotted, literally so, to the cardinals,
+     each of whom lives apart with his own attendants. His food is
+     brought daily from his own house, and is overhauled, and delivered
+     to him in the shape of 'broken victuals,' by the watchful guardians
+     of the _turns_ and lattices, through which alone anything, even
+     conversation, can penetrate into the seclusion of that sacred
+     retreat. For a few hours, the first evening, the doors are left
+     open, and the nobility, the diplomatic body, and, in fact, all
+     presentable persons, may roam from cell to cell, paying a brief
+     compliment to its occupant, perhaps speaking the same good wishes
+     to fifty, which they know can only be accomplished in one. After
+     that, all is closed; a wicket is left accessible for any cardinal
+     to enter, who is not yet arrived; but every aperture is jealously
+     guarded by faithful janitors, judges and prelates of various
+     tribunals, who relieve one another. Every letter even is opened and
+     read, that no communications may be held with the outer world. The
+     very street on which the wing of the conclave looks is barricaded
+     and guarded by a picquet at each end; and as, fortunately, opposite
+     there are no private residences, and all the buildings have access
+     from the back, no inconvenience is thereby created.... In the mean
+     time, within, and unseen from without, _fervet opus_.
+
+     "Twice a day the cardinals meet in the chapel belonging to the
+     palace, included in the enclosure, and there, on tickets so
+     arranged that the voter's name cannot be seen, write the name of
+     him for whom they give their suffrage. These papers are examined in
+     their presence, and if the number of votes given to any one do not
+     constitute the majority, they are burnt in such a manner that the
+     smoke, issuing through a flue, is visible to the crowd usually
+     assembled in the square outside. Some day, instead of this usual
+     signal to disperse, the sound of pick and hammer is heard, a small
+     opening is seen in the wall which had temporarily blocked up the
+     great window over the palace gateway. At last the masons of the
+     conclave have opened a rude door, through which steps out on the
+     balcony the first Cardinal Deacon, and proclaims to the many, or to
+     the few, who may happen to be in waiting, that they again possess a
+     sovereign and a pontiff."--_Cardinal Wiseman._
+
+     "Sais-tu ce que c'est qu'un conclave? Une réunion de vieillards,
+     moins occupés du ciel que de la terre, et dont quelques-uns se font
+     plus maladifs, plus goutteux, et plus cacochymes qu'ils ne le sont
+     encore, dans l'espérance d'inspirer un vif interêt à leurs
+     partisans. Grand nombre d'éminences ne renonçant jamais à la
+     possibilité d'une élection, le rival le plus près de la tombe
+     excite toujours le moins de répugnance. Un rhumatisme est ici un
+     titre à la confiance; l'hydropisie a ses partisans: car l'ambition
+     et la mort comptent sur les mêmes chances. Le cercueil sert comme
+     de marchepied au trône; et il y a tel pieux candidat qui
+     négocierait avec son concurrent, si la durée du nouveau règne
+     pouvait avoir son terme obligatoire comme celui d'un effet de
+     commerce. Eh! ne sais-tu pas toi-même que le pâtre d'Ancône brûla
+     gaiement ses béquilles dès qu'il eut ceint la tiare; et que Léon
+     X., élu à trente-huit ans, avait eu grand soin de ne guérir d'un
+     mal mortel que le lendemain de son couronnement?"--_Lorenzo
+     Ganganelli (Clement XIV.) à Carlo Bertinazzi, Avril 16, 1769._
+
+Under the rule of the Popes the palace was shown from 12 A.M. to 4 P.M.
+on presentation of a ticket, which could easily be obtained through a
+banker. It was stripped of all historical memorials and contained very
+few fine pictures, so was little worth visiting. Since the winter of
+1870--71 the palace has been appropriated as the residence of the
+Sardinian Royal Family.
+
+On the landing of the principal staircase, in a bad light, is a very
+important fresco by _Melozzo da Forli_, a rare master of the Paduan
+school.[235]
+
+     "On the vaulted ceiling of a chapel in the Church of the SS.
+     Apostoli at Rome, Melozzo executed a work (1472) which, in those
+     times, can have admitted of comparison with few. When the chapel
+     was rebuilt in the eighteenth century some fragments were saved.
+     That comprehending the Creator between angels was removed to a
+     staircase in the Quirinal palace, while single figures of angels
+     were placed in the sacristy of St. Peter's. These detached portions
+     suffice to show a beauty and fulness of form, and a combination of
+     earthly and spiritual grandeur, comparable in their way to the
+     noblest productions of Titian, although in mode of execution rather
+     recalling Coreggio. Here, as in the cupola frescoes of Coreggio
+     himself, half a century later, we trace that constant effort at
+     true perspective of the figure, hardly in character, perhaps, with
+     high ecclesiastical art; the drapery, also, is of a somewhat
+     formless description; but the grandeur of the principal figure, the
+     grace and freshness of the little adoring cherubs, and the elevated
+     beauty of the angels are expressed with an easy naïveté, to which
+     only the best works of Mantegna and Signorelli can
+     compare."--_Kugler._
+
+Passing through a great hall, one hundred and ninety feet long, we are
+shown a number of rooms fitted up by Pius VII. and Gregory XVI. for the
+papal summer residence. They contain few objects of interest. In one
+chamber is a Last Supper by _Baroccio_;--in the next a fine tapestry
+representing the marriage of Louis XIV. The following rooms contain some
+good Gobelin tapestries.
+
+Several apartments have mosaic pavements, brought hither from pagan
+edifices. The chamber is shown in which Pius VII. died,--the bed has
+been changed. In the next room--an audience chamber--he was taken
+prisoner. Here is a curious ancient pietra-dura of the
+Annunciation,--the ceiling is painted by Overbeck. In one of the
+following rooms are some pictures, including--
+
+    S. Giorgio: _Pordenone_.
+
+     "One picture especially attracted me at the Quirinal; a St. George,
+     the conqueror of the dragon, and deliverer of the maiden. No one
+     could tell me the name of the master, till a modest little man
+     stepped forward, and told me the picture was by Pordenone the
+     Venetian, one of his best works, showing all his merits. This quite
+     explained my liking for it; the picture had struck me, because
+     being best acquainted with the Venetian school, I could best
+     appreciate the merits of one of its masters."--_Goethe, Romische
+     Briefe._
+
+    Marriage of S. Catherine: _Battoni_.
+    St. Peter and St. Paul: _Fra Bartolomeo_.
+
+     "The two standing figures of St. Peter and St. Paul, as large as
+     life, were executed during a short residence in Rome. The first was
+     completed by Raphael after Fra Bartolomeo's departure."--_Kugler._
+
+The room which is decorated with a fine modern tapestry of the martyrdom
+of St. Stephen, has a plaster frieze, being the original cast of the
+Triumph of Alexander the Great, modelled for Napoleon by _Thorwaldsen_.
+One of the last rooms shown is a kind of picture gallery. Among the best
+works here are:--
+
+    Saul and David: _Guercino_.
+    Ecce Homo: _Domenichino_.
+    St. Jerome: _Spagnoletto_.
+    The Flight into Egypt: _Baroccio_.
+
+Here also is a worthless picture of the Battle of Mentana, presented to
+Pius IX. by the English Catholic ladies.
+
+The _Private Chapel of the Pope_, opening from this gallery, contains a
+magnificent picture of the Annunciation by _Guido_, and frescoes of the
+life of the Virgin by _Albani_. The great hall of the Consistory, a bare
+room with benches, has a fresco of the Virgin and Child by _Carlo
+Maratta_, over an altar.
+
+The _Gardens of the Quirinal_ can be visited with an order from 8 to 12
+A.M. They are in the stiff style of box hedges and clipped avenues,
+which seems to belong especially to Rome, and which we know to have
+been popular here even in imperial times. Pliny, in his account of his
+Tusculan villa, describes his gardens decorated with "figures of
+different animals, cut in box: evergreens clipped into a thousand
+different shapes; sometimes into letters forming different names; walls
+and hedges of cut box, and trees twisted into a variety of forms." But
+the Quirinal gardens are also worth visiting, on account of the many
+pretty glimpses they afford of St. Peter's and other distant buildings,
+and the oddity of some of the devices--an organ played by water, &c. The
+Casino, built by Fuga, has frescoes by _Orizonti_, _Pompeo Battoni_, and
+_Pannini_.
+
+If we turn to the left on issuing from the palace, we reach--on the
+left--the entrance to the courtyard of the vast _Palazzo Rospigliosi_,
+built by Flaminio Ponzio, in 1603, for Cardinal Scipio Borghese, on a
+portion of the site of the Baths of Constantine. It was inhabited by
+Cardinal Bentivoglio, and sold by him to Cardinal Mazarin, who enlarged
+it from designs of Carlo Maderno. From his time to 1704 it was inhabited
+by French ambassadors, and it then passed to the Rospigliosi family. The
+present Prince Rospigliosi inhabits the second floor, his brother,
+Prince Pallavicini, the first.
+
+The palace itself (well known from its hospitalities) is not shown, but
+the _Casino_ is open on Wednesdays and Saturdays. It is situated at the
+end of a very small but pretty garden planted with magnolias, and
+consists of three chambers. On the roof of the central room is the
+famous Aurora of Guido.
+
+     "Guido's Aurora is the very type of haste and impetus; for surely
+     no man ever imagined such hurry and tumult, such sounding and
+     clashing. Painters maintain that it is lighted from two
+     sides,--they have my full permission to light theirs from three if
+     it will improve them, but the difference lies
+     elsewhere."--_Mendelssohn's Letters_, p. 91.
+
+     "This is the noblest work of Guido. It is embodied poetry. The
+     Hours, that hand in hand encircle the car of Phoebus, advance
+     with rapid pace. The paler, milder forms of those gentle sisters
+     who rule over declining day, and the glowing glance of those who
+     bask in the meridian blaze, resplendent in the hues of heaven,--are
+     of no mortal grace and beauty; but they are eclipsed by Aurora
+     herself, who sails on the golden clouds before them, shedding
+     'showers of shadowing roses' on the rejoicing earth; her celestial
+     presence diffusing gladness, and light, and beauty around. Above
+     the heads of the heavenly coursers, hovers the morning star, in the
+     form of a youthful cherub, bearing his flaming torch. Nothing is
+     more admirable in this beautiful composition than the motion given
+     to the whole. The smooth and rapid step of the circling Hours as
+     they tread on the fleecy clouds; the fiery steeds; the whirling
+     wheels of the car; the torch of Lucifer, blown back by the velocity
+     of his advance; and the form of Aurora, borne through the ambient
+     air, till you almost fear she should float from your
+     sight."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+     "The work of Guido is more poetic than that of Guercino, and
+     luminous, and soft, and harmonious. Cupid, Aurora, Phoebus, form
+     a climax of beauty, and the Hours seem as light as the clouds on
+     which they dance."--_Forsyth._
+
+     Lanzi points out that Guido always took the Venus de Medici and the
+     Niobe as his favourite models, and that there is scarcely one of
+     his large pictures in which the Niobe or one of her sons is not
+     introduced, yet with such dexterity, that the theft is scarcely
+     perceptible.
+
+The frescoes of the frieze are by _Tempesta;_ the landscapes by _Paul
+Brill_. In the hall are busts, statues, and a bronze horse found in the
+ruins of the Baths.
+
+There is a small collection of pictures--the only work of real
+importance being the beautiful _Daniele di Volterra_ of our Saviour
+bearing his cross, in the room on the left. In the same room are two
+large pictures, David triumphing with the head of Goliath,
+_Domenichino_; and Perseus rescuing Andromeda, _Guido_. In the room on
+the right are, Adam gathering fig-leaves for Eve, in a Paradise which is
+crowded with animals like a menagerie, _Domenichino_; and Samson pulling
+down the pillars upon the Philistines, _Ludovico Caracci_.
+
+A second small garden belonging to this palace is well worth seeing in
+May from the wealth of camellias, azaleas, and roses, with which it is
+filled.
+
+Opposite the Rospigliosi Palace, by ringing at a gate in the wall, we
+gain admission to the _Colonna Gardens_ (connected with the palace in
+the Piazza SS. Apostoli, by a series of bridges across the intervening
+street). Here, on a lofty terrace which has a fine view towards the
+Capitol, and overshadowed by grand cypresses, are the colossal remains
+of the _Temple of the Sun_ (huge fragments of cornice) built by Aurelian
+(A.D. 270--75). At the other end of the terrace, looking down through
+two barns into a kind of pit, we can see some remains of the _Baths of
+Constantine_--built A.D. 326--and of the great staircase which led up to
+them from the valley below. The portico of these baths remained erect
+till the time of Clement XII. (1730--40), and was adorned with four
+marble statues, of which two--those of the two Constantines--may now be
+seen on the terrace of the Capitol.
+
+Beneath the magnificent cypress-trees on the slope of the hill are
+several fine sarcophagi. Only the stem is preserved of the grand
+historical pine-tree, which was planted on the day on which Cola di
+Rienzi died, and which was one of the great ornaments of the city till
+1848, when it was broken in a storm.
+
+Just beyond the end of the garden, are the great _Convent_ and _Church
+of S. Silvestro a Monte Cavallo_--belonging to the Missionaries of St.
+Vincent de Paul--in which the Cardinals meet before going in procession
+to the Conclave. It contains a few rather good pictures. The cupola of
+the second chapel has frescoes by _Domenichino_, of David dancing before
+the Ark,--the Queen of Sheba and Solomon,--Judith with the head of
+Holofernes,--and Esther fainting before Ahasueras. These are considered
+by Lanzi as some of the finest frescoes of the master. In the left
+transept is a chapel containing a picture of the Assumption, painted on
+slate, considered the masterpiece of _Scipione Gaetani_. The last chapel
+but one on the left has a ceiling by _Cav. d'Arpino_, and frescoes on
+the walls by _Polidoro da Caravaggio_. The picture over the altar,
+representing St. Dominic and St. Catherine of Siena, is by _Mariotto
+Albertinelli_. Cardinal Bentivoglio--who wrote the history of the wars
+in Flanders, and lived in the Rospigliosi Palace--is buried here.
+
+We now reach the height of Maganaopoli, from which the isthmus which
+joined the Quirinal to the Capitoline was cut away by Trajan. Here is a
+cross-ways. On the right is a descent to the Forum of Trajan, at the
+side of which is the villa of Cardinal Antonelli, and beyond it, the
+handsome modern palace of Count Trapani, cousin to the King of Naples.
+
+Opposite, is the _Church of Sta. Caterina di Siena_, possessing some
+frescoes attributed, on doubtful grounds, to the rare master _Timoteo
+della Vite_. Adjoining, is a large convent, enclosed within the
+precincts of which is the tall brick mediæval tower, sometimes called
+the Tower of Nero, but generally known as the _Torre delle Milizie_,
+_i.e._ the Roman Militia. It was erected by the sons of Peter Alexius, a
+baron attached to the party of the Senator Pandolfo de Suburra. The
+lower part is said to have been built in 1210, the upper in 1294 and
+1330.
+
+     "People pass through two regular courses of study at Rome,--the
+     first in learning, and the second in unlearning.
+
+     "'This is the tower of Nero, from which he saw the city in
+     flames,--and this is the temple of Concord,--and this is the temple
+     of Castor and Pollux,--and this is the temple of Vesta,--and these
+     are the baths of Paulus-Æmilius,'--and so on, says your lacquey.
+
+     "'This is not the tower of Nero,--nor that the temple of Castor and
+     Pollux,--nor the other the temple of Concord,--nor are any of these
+     things what they are called,' says your antiquary."--_Eaton's
+     Rome._
+
+The Convent of Sta. Caterina was built by the celebrated Vittoria
+Colonna, who requested the advice of Michael Angelo on the subject, and
+was told that she had better make the ancient "Torre" into a belfry. A
+very curious account of the interview in which this subject was
+discussed, and which took place in the Church of S. Silvestro a Monte
+Cavallo, is left us in the memoirs of Francesco d'Olanda, a Portuguese
+painter, who was himself present at the conversation.
+
+Near this point are two other fine mediæval towers. One is to the right
+of the descent to the Forum of Trajan, being that of the Colonnas, now
+called _Tor di Babele_, ornamented with three beautiful fragments of
+sculptured frieze, one of them bearing the device of the Colonna, a
+crowned column rising from a wreath. The other tower, immediately facing
+us, is called _Torre del Grillo_, from the ancient family of that name.
+
+Opposite Sta. Caterina is the handsome _Church of SS. Domenico e Sisto_,
+approached by a good double twisted staircase. Over the second altar on
+the left is a picture of the marriage of St. Catherine by _Allegrani_,
+and, on the anniversary of her (visionary) marriage (July 19), the dried
+hand of the saint is exhibited here to the unspeakable comfort of the
+faithful.
+
+Turning by this church into the Via Maganaopoli (formerly Baganaopoli, a
+corruption of Balnea Pauli--Baths of Emilius Paulus), we pass on the
+left the _Palazzo Aldobrandini_, with a bright pleasant-looking court
+and handsome fountain. The present Prince Aldobrandini is brother of
+Prince Borghese. Of this family was S. Pietro Aldobrandini, generally
+known as S. Pietro Igneo, who was canonized because, in 1067, he walked
+unhurt, crucifix in hand, through a burning fiery furnace ten feet long
+before the church door of Settimo, near Florence, to prove an accusation
+of simony which he had brought against Pietro di Pavia, bishop of that
+city.
+
+In the Via di Mazzarini, in the hollow between the Quirinal and Viminal,
+is the _Convent of Sta. Agata in Suburra_, through the courtyard of
+which we enter the _Church of Sta. Agata dei Goti_. A tradition declares
+that this (like S. Sabba on the Aventine) is on the site of a house of
+Sta. Silvia, mother of St. Gregory the Great, who consecrated the church
+after it had been plundered by the Goths, and dedicated it to Sta.
+Agata. It was rebuilt by Ricimer, the king-maker, in A.D. 472. Twelve
+ancient granite columns and a handsome opus-alexandrinum pavement are
+its only signs of antiquity. The church now belongs to the Irish
+Seminary. In the left aisle is the monument of Daniel O'Connell, with
+bas-reliefs by Benzoni, inscribed:--
+
+     "This monument contains the heart of O'Connell, who dying at Genoa
+     on his way to the Eternal City, bequeathed his soul to God, his
+     body to Ireland, and his heart to Rome. He is represented at the
+     bar of the British House of Commons in MDCCCXXIII., when he refused
+     to take the anti-catholic declaration, in these remarkable
+     words--'I at once reject this declaration; part of it I believe to
+     be untrue, and the rest I know to be false.' He was born vi. Aug.
+     MDCCLXXVI., and died xv. May, MDCCCXLVIII. Erected by Charles
+     Bianconi, the faithful friend of the immortal liberator, and of
+     Ireland the land of his adoption."
+
+At the end of the left aisle is a chapel, which Cardinal Antonelli (who
+has his palace near this) decorated, 1863, with frescoes and arabesques
+as a burial-place for his family. In the opposite chapel is a gilt
+figure of Sta. Agata carrying her breasts--showing the manner in which
+she suffered.
+
+     "Agatha was a maiden of Catania, in Sicily, whither Decius the
+     emperor sent Quintianus as governor. He, inflamed by the beauty of
+     Agatha, tempted her with rich gifts and promises, but she repulsed
+     him with disdain. Then Quintianus ordered her to be bound and
+     beaten with rods, and sent two of his slaves to tear her bosom with
+     iron shears, and as her blood flowed forth, she said to him, 'O
+     thou cruel tyrant! art thou not ashamed to treat me thus--hast thou
+     not thyself been fed at thy mother's breasts?' Thus only did she
+     murmur. And in the night a venerable man came to her, bearing a
+     vase of ointment, and before him walked a youth bearing a torch. It
+     was the holy apostle Peter, and the youth was an angel; but Agatha
+     knew it not; though such a glorious light filled the prison, that
+     the guards fled in terror.... Then St. Peter made himself known and
+     ministered to her, restoring with heavenly balm her wounded
+     breasts.
+
+     "Quintianus, infuriated, demanded who had healed her. She replied,
+     'He whom I confess and adore with heart and lips, he hath sent his
+     apostle who hath healed me.' Then Quintianus caused her to be
+     thrown bound upon a great fire, but instantly an earthquake arose,
+     and the people in terror cried, 'This visitation is sent because of
+     the sufferings of the maiden Agatha.' So he caused her to be taken
+     from the fire, and carried back to prison, where she prayed aloud
+     that having now proved her faith, she might be freed from pain and
+     see the glory of God;--and her prayer was answered and her spirit
+     instantly departed into eternal glory, Feb. 5, A.D. 251."--_From
+     the "Legende delle SS. Vergini."_
+
+Agatha (patroness of Catania) is one of the saints most reverenced by
+the Roman people. On the 5th of February her vespers are sung here,
+which contain the antiphons:--
+
+     "Who art thou that art come to heal my wounds?--I am an apostle of
+     Christ, doubt not concerning me, my daughter.
+
+     "Medicine for the body have I never used; but I have the Lord Jesus
+     Christ, who with his word alone restoreth all things.
+
+     "I render thanks to thee, O Lord Jesus Christ, for that thou hast
+     been mindful of me, and hast sent thine apostle to heal my wounds.
+
+     "I bless thee, O Father of my Lord Jesus Christ, because through
+     thine apostle thou hast restored my breasts to me.
+
+     "Him who hath vouchsafed to heal me of every wound, and to restore
+     to me my breasts, him do I invoke, even the living God.
+
+            *       *       *       *       *
+
+     "Blessed Agatha, standing in her prison, stretched forth her hands
+     and prayed unto the Lord, saying, 'O Lord Jesus Christ, my good
+     master, I thank thee because thou hast given me strength to
+     overcome the tortures of the executioners; and now, Lord, speak the
+     word, that I may depart hence to thy glory which fadeth not away."
+
+The tomb of John Lascaris (a refugee from Constantinople when taken by
+the Turks) has--in Greek--the inscription:--
+
+     "Lascaris lies here in a foreign grave; but, stranger, that does
+     not disturb him, rather does he rejoice; yet he is not without
+     sorrow, as a Grecian, that his fatherland will not bestow upon him
+     the freedom of a grave."
+
+Passing the great Convent of S. Bernardino Senensis, we reach the Via
+dei Serpenti, interesting as occupying the supposed site of the Vallis
+Quirinalis, where Julius Proculus, returning from Alba Longa,
+encountered the ghost of Romulus:
+
+    "Sed Proculus Longâ veniebat Julius Albâ;
+      Lunaque fulgebat; nec facis usus erat:
+    Cum subito motu nubes crepuere sinistræ:
+      Retulit ille gradus, horrueruntque comæ.
+    Pulcher, et humano major, trabeâque decorus,
+      Romulus in mediâ visus adesse viâ."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ ii. 498.
+
+Turning to the right down the Via dei Serpenti, we reach the Piazza Sta.
+Maria in Monti, containing a fountain, and a church dedicated to SS.
+Sergius and Bacchus, two martyrs who suffered under Maximian at Rasapha
+in Syria.
+
+One side of this piazza is occupied by the _Church of Sta. Maria in
+Monti_, in which is deposited a figure of the beggar Labre (canonized by
+Pius IX. in 1860), dressed in the gown of a mendicant-pilgrim, which he
+wore when living. Over the altar is a picture of him in the Coliseum,
+distributing to his fellow-beggars the alms which he had obtained. His
+fête is observed here on April 16. (At No. 3 Via dei Serpenti, one may
+visit the chamber in which Labre died--and in the Via dei Crociferi,
+near the fountain of Trevi, a chapel containing many of his relics,--the
+bed on which he died, the crucifix which he wore in his bosom, &c.)
+
+     "Benoît Joseph Labre naquit en 1748 dans le diocèse de Boulogne
+     (France) de parents chrétiens et jouissant d'une modeste aisance.
+     D'une piété vive et tendre, il voulut d'abord se faire religieux;
+     mais sa santé ne put résister, ni aux règles des Chartreux, ni à
+     celles des Trappistes, chez lesquels il entra successivement. _Il
+     fut alors sollicité intérieurement_, est il dit dans la notice sur
+     sa vie, _de mener une vie de pénitence et de charité au milieu du
+     siècle_. Pendant sept années, il parcourut en pèlerin-mendiant,
+     les sanctuaires de la Vierge les plus vénérés de toute l'Europe; on
+     a calculé qu'il fit, à pied, plus de cinq mille lieues, pendant ces
+     sept années.
+
+     "En 1777, il revint en Italie, pour ne plus en sortir. Il habitait
+     Rome, faisant seulement une fois chaque année, le pèlerinage de
+     Lorète. Il passait une grande partie de ses journées dans les
+     églises, mendiait, et faisait des oeuvres de charité. Il couchait
+     quelquefois sous le portique des églises, et le plus souvent au
+     Colysée derrière la petite chapelle de la cinquième station du
+     chemin de la croix. L'église qu'il fréquentait le plus, était celle
+     de Ste. Marie des Monts; le 16 Avril, 1783, après y avoir prié fort
+     longtemps, en sortant, il tomba, comme évanoui, sur les marches du
+     péristyle de l'église. On le transporta dans une maison voisine, où
+     il mourut le soir."--_Une Année à Rome._
+
+Almost opposite this church, a narrow alley, which appears to be a
+_cul-de-sac_ ending in a picture of the Crucifixion, is in reality the
+approach to the carefully concealed _Convent of the Farnesiani Nuns_,
+generally known as the _Sepolte Vive_. The only means of communicating
+with them is by rapping on a barrel which projects from a wall on a
+platform above the roofs of the houses,--when a muffled voice is heard
+from the interior,--and if your references are satisfactory, the barrel
+turns round and eventually discloses a key by which the initiated can
+admit themselves to a small chamber in the interior of the convent. Over
+its door is an inscription, bidding those who enter that chamber to
+leave all worldly thoughts behind them. Round the walls are
+inscribed,--"Qui non diligit, manet in morti."--"Militia est vita
+hominis super terram."--"Alter alterius onera portate"; and, on the
+other side, opposite the door,
+
+    "Vi esorto a rimirar
+      La vita del mondo
+    Nella guisa che la mira
+      Un moribondo."
+
+In one of the walls is an opening with a double grille, beyond which is
+a metal plate, pierced with holes like the rose of a watering-pot. It is
+beyond this grille and behind this plate, that the abbess of the Sepolte
+Vive receives her visitors, but she is even then veiled from head to
+foot in heavy folds of thick bure. Gregory XVI., who of course could
+penetrate within the convent and who wished to try her, said, "Sorella
+mia, levate il velo." "No, mio padre," she replied, "E vietato dalla
+nostra regola."
+
+The nuns of the Sepolte Vive are never seen again after they once assume
+the black veil, though they are allowed double the ordinary noviciate.
+They never hear anything of the outer world, even of the deaths of their
+nearest relations. Daily, they are said to dig their own graves and lie
+down in them, and their remaining hours are occupied in perpetual and
+monotonous adoration of the Blessed Sacrament.
+
+Returning as far as the Via Pane e Perna (a continuation of the Via
+Maganaopoli) we ascend the slope of the _Viminal Hill_, now with
+difficulty to be distinguished from the Quirinal. It derives its name
+from _vimina_, osiers, and was once probably covered with woods, since a
+temple of Sylvanus or Pan was one of several which adorned its principal
+street--the Vicus Longus--the site of which is now marked by the
+countrified lane called Via S. Vitale. This end of the hill is crowned
+by the _Church of S. Lorenzo Pane e Perna_, built on the site of the
+martyrdom of the deacon St. Laurence, who suffered under Claudius II.,
+in A.D. 264, for refusing to give up the goods of the Church. Over the
+altar is a huge fresco, representing the saint extended upon a red-hot
+gridiron, and below--entered from the exterior of the church--a crypt
+is shown as the scene of his cruel sufferings.[236]
+
+     "Blessed Laurentius, as he lay stretched and burning on the
+     gridiron, said to the impious tyrant, 'The meat is done, make haste
+     hither and eat. As for the treasures of the Church which you seek,
+     the hands of the poor have carried them to a heavenly
+     treasury.'"--_Antiphon of St. Laurence._
+
+The funeral of St. Bridget of Sweden took place in this church, July
+1373, but after resting here for a year, her body was removed by her son
+to the monastery of Wastein in Sweden.
+
+Under the second altar on the right are shown the relics of St. Crispin
+and St. Crispinian, "two holy brothers, who departed from Rome with St.
+Denis to preach the Gospel in France, where, after the example of St.
+Paul, they laboured with their hands, being by trade shoemakers. And
+these good saints made shoes for the poor without fee or reward (for
+which the angels supplied them with leather), until, denounced as
+Christians, they suffered martyrdom at Soissons, being, after many
+tortures, beheaded by the sword (A.D. 300)."[237] The festival of St.
+Crispin and St. Crispinian is held on October 25, the anniversary of the
+battle of Agincourt.
+
+    "And Crispin Crispian shall ne'er go by,
+    From this day to the ending of the world,
+    But we in it shall be remembered."
+
+    _Shakespeare, Henry V._
+
+Throughout the middle ages the statues of Posidippus and Menander, now
+in the gallery of statues at the Vatican, were kissed and worshipped in
+this church under the impression that they represented saints (see Ch.
+XV.). They were found on this site, which was once occupied by the baths
+of Olympias, daughter-in-law of Constantine.
+
+The strange name of the church, Pane e Perna, is supposed to have had
+its origin in a dole of bread and ham once given at the door of the
+adjacent convent. In the garden belonging to the convent is a mediæval
+house of _c._ 1200. The campanile is of 1450.
+
+The small neighbouring _Church of S. Lorenzo in Fonte_ covers the site
+of the prison of St. Lawrence, and a fountain is shown there as that in
+which he baptized Vicus Patricius and his daughter Lucilla, whom he
+miraculously raised from the dead.
+
+Descending the hill below the church--in the valley between the
+Esquiline and Viminal--we reach at the corner of the street a spot of
+preëminent historical interest, as that where Servius Tullius was
+killed, and where Tullia (B.C. 535) drove in her chariot over the dead
+body of her father. The Vicus Urbius by which the old king had reached
+the spot is now represented by the Via Urbana; the Vicus Cyprius, by
+which he was about to ascend to the palace on the hill Cispius, by the
+Via di Sta. Maria Maggiore.
+
+     "Servius-Tullius, après avoir pris le chemin raccourci qui partait
+     du pied de la Velia et allait du côté des Carines, atteignit le
+     Vicus-Cyprius (Via Urbana).
+
+     "Parvenu à l'extrémité du Vicus-Cyprius, le roi fut atteint et
+     assassiné par les gens de Tarquin auprès d'un temple de Diane.
+
+     "C'est arrivés en cet endroit, au moment de tourner à droite et de
+     gagner, en remontant le Vicus-Virbius, le Cispius, où habitait son
+     père, que les chevaux s'arrêtèrent; que Tullie, poussée par
+     l'impatience fièvreuse de l'ambition, et n'ayant plus que quelques
+     pas à faire pour arriver au terme, avertie par le cocher que le
+     cadavre de son père était là gisant, s'écria: 'Eh bien, pousse le
+     char en avant.'
+
+     "Le meurtre s'est accompli au pied du Viminal, à l'extrémité du
+     Vicus-Cyprius, là où fut depuis le Vicus-Sceleratus, la rue
+     Funeste.
+
+     "Le lieu où la tradition plaçait cette tragique aventure ne peut
+     être sur l'Esquilin: mais nécessairement au pied de cette colline
+     et du Viminal, puisque, parvenu à l'extrémité du Vicus-Cyprius, le
+     cocher allait tourner à droite et remonter pour gravir l'Esquilin.
+     Il ne faut donc pas chercher, comme Nibby, la rue Scélérate sur une
+     des pentes, ou, comme Canina et M. Dyer, sur le sommet de
+     l'Esquilin, d'où l'on ne pouvait monter sur l'Esquilin.
+
+     "Tullie n'allait pas sur l'Oppius (San-Pietro in Vincoli), dans la
+     demeure de son mari, mais sur le Cispius, dans la demeure de son
+     père. C'était de la demeure royale qu'elle allait prendre
+     possession pour le nouveau roi.
+
+            *       *       *       *       *
+
+     "Je n'oublierai jamais le soir où, après avoir longtemps cherché le
+     lieu qui vit la mort de Servius et le crime de Tullie, tout-à-coup
+     je découvris clairement que j'y étais arrivé, et m'arrêtant plein
+     d'horreur, comme le cocher de la parricide, plongeant dans l'ombre
+     un regard qui, malgré moi, y cherchait le cadavre du vieux roi, je
+     me dis: 'C'était là!'"
+
+    _Ampère, Hist. Rom._ ii. 153.
+
+Turning to the left, at the foot of the Esquiline, we find the
+interesting _Church of Sta. Pudenziana_, supposed to be the most ancient
+of all the Roman churches ("omnium ecclesiaram urbis vetustissima").
+Cardinal Wiseman, who took his title from this church, considers it was
+the principal place of worship in Rome after apostolic times, being
+founded on the site of the house where St. Paul lodged, A.D. 41 to 50,
+with the senator Pudens, whose family were his first converts, and who
+is said to have himself suffered martyrdom under Nero. On this ancient
+place of worship an oratory was engrafted by Pius I. (_c._ A.D. 145), in
+memory of the younger daughter of Pudens, Pudenziana, perhaps at the
+request of her sister Prassede, who is believed to have survived till
+that time. In very early times two small churches existed here, known
+as "Titulus Pudentis" and "Titulus Pastoris," the latter in memory of a
+brother of Pius I.
+
+The church, which has been successively altered by Adrian I. in the
+eighth century, by Gregory VII., and by Innocent II., was finally
+modernised by Cardinal Caetani in 1597. Little remains of ancient
+external work except the graceful brick campanile (_c._ 1130) with
+triple arcades of open arches on every side separated by bands of
+terra-cotta moulding,--and the door adorned with low reliefs of the Lamb
+bearing a cross, and of Sta. Prassede and Sta. Pudenziana with the vases
+in which they collected the blood of the martyrs, and two other figures,
+probably St. Pudens and St. Pastor.
+
+The chapel on the left of the tribune, which is regarded as the "Titulus
+Pudentis," has an old mosaic pavement, said to have belonged to the
+house of Pudens. Here is a bas-relief by Giacomo della Porta,
+representing our Saviour delivering the keys to St. Peter; and here is
+preserved part of the altar at which St. Peter is said to have
+celebrated mass (the rest is at the Lateran), and which was used by all
+the early popes till the time of Sylvester. Among early Christian
+inscriptions let into the walls, is one to a Cornelia, of the family of
+the Pudenziani, with a rude portrait.
+
+Opening from the left aisle is the chapel of the Caetani family, with
+tombs of the seventeenth century. Over the altar is a bas-relief of the
+Adoration of the Magi, by _Paolo Olivieri_. On each side are fine
+columns of Lunachella marble. Over the entrance from the nave are
+ancient mosaics,--of the Evangelists and of Sta. Pudenziana collecting
+the blood of the martyrs. Beneath, is a gloomy and neglected vault, in
+which all the sarcophagi and coffins of the dead Caetani are shown by
+torchlight.
+
+In the tribune are magnificent mosaics, ascribed by some to the eighth,
+by others to the fourth century, and considered by De Rossi,[238] as the
+best of all ancient Christian mosaics.
+
+     "In conception and treatment this work is indeed classic: seated on
+     a rich throne in the centre, is the Saviour with one arm extended,
+     and in the other hand holding a book open at the words,
+     _Conservator Ecclesiæ Pudentianæ_; laterally stand SS. Praxedis and
+     Pudentiana with leafy crowns in their hands; and at a lower level,
+     but more in front, SS. Peter and Paul with eight other male
+     figures, all in the amply-flowing costume of ancient Romans; while
+     in the background are seen, beyond a portico with arcades, various
+     stately buildings, one a rotunda, another a parallelogram with a
+     gable-headed front, recognizable as a baptistery and basilica,
+     here, we may believe, in authentic copy from the earliest types of
+     the period of the first Christian emperors. Above the group, and
+     hovering in the air, a large cross, studded with gems, surmounts
+     the head of our Saviour, between the four symbols of the
+     Evangelists, of which one has been entirely, and another in the
+     greater part, sacrificed to some wretched accessories in woodwork
+     actually allowed to conceal portions of this most interesting
+     mosaic! As to expression, a severe solemnity is that prevailing,
+     especially in the principal head, which _alone_ is crowned with the
+     nimbus--one among other proofs, if but negative, of its high
+     antiquity."--_Heman's Ancient Christian Art._
+
+Besides Sta. Pudenziana and St. Pudens,--St. Novatus and St. Siricius
+are said to be buried here. Those who visit this sanctuary every day
+obtain an indulgence of 3000 years, with remission of a third part of
+their sins! Excavations made by Mr. J. H. Parker, in 1865, have laid
+bare some interesting constructions beneath the church,--supposed to be
+those of the house of Pudens--a part of the public baths of Novatus, the
+son of Pudens, which were in use for some centuries after his time, and
+a chamber in which is supposed to have been the oratory dedicated by
+Pius I. in A.D. 145.
+
+     "Eubulus greeteth thee, and _Pudens_, and Linus, and Claudia, and
+     all the brethren."--_2 Timothy_ iv. 21.
+
+The following account of the family of Pudens is received as the legacy
+of Pastor to the Christian Church.
+
+     "Pudens went to his Saviour, leaving his daughters strengthened
+     with chastity, and learned in all the divine law. These sold their
+     goods, and distributed the produce to the poor, and persevered
+     strictly in the love of Christ, guarding intact the flower of their
+     virginity, and only seeking for glory in vigils, fastings, and
+     prayer. They desired to have a baptistery in their house, to which
+     the blessed Pius not only consented, but with his own hand drew the
+     plan of the fountain. Then calling in their slaves, both from town
+     and country, the two virgins gave liberty to those who were
+     Christians, and urged belief in the faith upon those who had not
+     yet received it. By the advice of the blessed Pius, the
+     affranchisement was declared, with all the ancient usages, in the
+     oratory founded by Pudens; then, at the festival of Easter,
+     ninety-six neophytes were baptized; so that thenceforth assemblies
+     were constantly held in the said oratory, which night and day
+     resounded with hymns of praise. Many pagans gladly came thither to
+     find the faith and receive baptism.
+
+     "Meanwhile the Emperor Antonine, being informed of what was taking
+     place, issued an edict commanding all Christians to dwell apart in
+     their own houses, without mixing with the rest of the people, and
+     that they should neither go to the public shops, nor to the baths.
+     Praxedis and Pudentiana then assembled those whom they had led to
+     the faith, and housed them. They nourished them for many days,
+     watching and praying. The blessed bishop Pius himself frequently
+     visited us with joy, and offered the sacrifice for us to the
+     Saviour.
+
+     "Then Pudentiana went to God. Her sister and I wrapped her in
+     perfumes and kept her concealed in the oratory. Then, at the end of
+     twenty-eight days, we carried her to the cemetery of Priscilla, and
+     laid her near her father Pudens.
+
+     "Eleven months after, Novatus died in his turn. He bequeathed his
+     goods to Praxedis, and she then begged of St. Pius to erect a
+     titular (a church) in the baths of Novatus, which were no longer
+     used, and where there was a large and spacious hall. The bishop
+     made the dedication in the name of the blessed virgin Praxedis. In
+     the same place he consecrated a baptistery.
+
+     "But, at the end of two years, a great persecution was declared
+     against the Christians, and many of them received the crown of
+     martyrdom. Praxedis concealed a great number of them in her
+     oratory, and nourished them at once with the food of this world and
+     with the word of God. But the Emperor Antonine, having learnt that
+     these meetings took place in the oratory of Priscilla, caused it to
+     be searched, and many Christians were taken, especially the priest
+     Simetrius and twenty-two others. And the blessed Praxedis collected
+     their bodies by night, and buried them in the cemetery of
+     Priscilla, on the seventh day of the calends of June. Then the
+     virgin of the Saviour, worn out with sorrow, only asked for death.
+     Her tears and her prayers reached to heaven, and fifty-four days
+     after her brethren had suffered, she passed to God. And I, Pastor,
+     the priest, have buried her body near that of her father
+     Pudens."--_From the Narration of Pastor._
+
+Returning by the main line of streets to the Quattro Fontane, we skirt
+on the right the wall of the Villa Negroni (see Ch. XI). Beyond this, on
+the left, is the _Church of S. Paolo Primo Eremita_. The strange-looking
+palm-tree over the door, with a raven perched upon it and two lions
+below, commemorates the story of the saint, who, retiring to the desert
+at the age of 22, lived there till he was 112, eating nothing but the
+dates of his tree for twenty-two years, after which bread was daily
+brought to him by a raven. In his last hours St. Anthony came to visit
+him and was present at his burial, when two lions his companions came to
+dig his grave. The sustaining palm-tree and the three animals who loved
+S. Paolo are again represented over the altar. Further on the left, we
+pass the Via S. Vitale, occupying the site of the Vicus Longus,
+considered by Dyer to have been the longest street in the ancient city.
+Here stood the temples of Sylvanus, and of Fever, with that of Pudicitia
+Plebeia, founded _c._ B.C. 297, by Virginia the patrician, wife of
+Volumnius, when excluded from the patrician temple of Pudicitia in the
+Forum Boarium, on account of her plebeian marriage. "At its altar none
+but plebeian matrons of unimpeachable chastity, and who had been married
+to only one husband, were allowed to sacrifice."[239]
+
+The _Church of S. Vitale_ on the Viminal, which now stands here, was
+founded by Innocent I. in A.D. 416. The interior is covered with
+frescoes of martyrdoms. It is seldom open except early on Sunday
+mornings. S. Vitale, father of S. Gervasius and S. Protasius, was the
+martyr and patron saint of Ravenna who was buried alive under Nero.
+
+Beyond this, on the left of the Via delle Quattro Fontane, is the
+_Church of S. Dionisio_, belonging to the Basilian nuns, called
+Apostoline di S. Basilio. It contains an Ecce Homo of _Luca Giordano_,
+and the gaudy shrine of the virgin martyr Sta. Coraola.
+
+END OF VOL. I.
+
+[Illustration: ROME
+
+Showing the more important streets and buildings. (left-side of map)]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+WALKS IN ROME
+
+TWO VOLS.--II.
+
+
+
+
+    WALKS IN ROME
+
+    BY AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE
+    AUTHOR OF "MEMORIALS OF A QUIET LIFE," "WANDERINGS IN SPAIN," ETC
+
+    TWO VOLUMES.----II.
+
+    _FIFTH EDITION_
+
+    LONDON
+    DALDY, ISBISTER & CO.
+    56, LUDGATE HILL
+    1875
+
+    [_All rights reserved_]
+
+JOHN CHILDS AND SON, PRINTERS.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+    CHAPTER XI.
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+    THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN                       7
+
+    CHAPTER XII.
+
+    THE ESQUILINE                                                     46
+
+    CHAPTER XIII.
+
+    THE BASILICAS OF THE LATERAN, SANTA CROCE, AND S. LORENZO         94
+
+    CHAPTER XIV.
+
+    IN THE CAMPUS MARTIUS                                            148
+
+    CHAPTER XV.
+
+    THE BORGO AND ST. PETER'S                                        223
+
+    CHAPTER XVI.
+
+    THE VATICAN                                                      282
+
+    CHAPTER XVII.
+
+    THE ISLAND AND THE TRASTEVERE                                    360
+
+    CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+    THE TRE FONTANE AND S. PAOLO                                     392
+
+    CHAPTER XIX.
+
+    THE VILLAS BORGHESE MADAMA, AND MELLINI                          410
+
+    CHAPTER XX.
+
+    THE JANICULAN                                                    432
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN.
+
+     The Cappuccini--S. Isidore--S. Niccolo in Tolentino--Via S.
+     Basilio--Convent of the Pregatrici--Villa Massimo Rignano--Gardens
+     of Sallust--Villa Ludovisi--Porta Salara--(Villa Albani--Catacombs
+     of Sta. Felicitas and Sta. Priscilla--Ponte Salara)--Porta
+     Pia--(Villa Torlonia--Sant' Agnese--Sta. Costanza--Ponte
+     Nomentana--Mons Sacer--S. Alessandro)--Villa Torlonia within the
+     walls--Via Macao--Pretorian Camp--Railway Station--Villa
+     Negroni--Agger of Servius Tullius--Sta. Maria degli
+     Angeli--Fountain of the Termini--Sta. Maria della Vittoria--Sta.
+     Susanna--S. Bernardo--S. Caio.
+
+
+Opening from the left of the Piazza Barberini, is the small _Piazza of
+the Cappuccini_, named from a convent suppressed since the Sardinian
+occupation, but which was one of the largest and most populous in Rome.
+
+The conventual church, dedicated to _Sta. Maria della Concezione_,
+contains several fine pictures. In the first chapel, on the right, is
+the magnificent _Guido_ of the Archangel Michael trampling upon the
+Devil,--said to be a portrait of Pope Innocent X., against whom the
+painter had a peculiar spite.
+
+     "Here the angel, standing, yet scarcely touching the ground, poised
+     on his outspread wings, sets his left foot on the head of his
+     adversary; in one hand he brandishes a sword, in the other he holds
+     the end of a chain, with which he is about to bind down the demon
+     in the bottomless pit. The attitude has been criticised, and
+     justly; the grace is somewhat mannered, verging on the theatrical;
+     but Forsyth is too severe when he talks of 'the air of a dancing
+     master': one thing, however, is certain, we do not think about the
+     attitude when we look at Raphael's St. Michael (in the Louvre); in
+     Guido's it is the first thing that strikes us; but when we look
+     farther, the head redeems all; it is singularly beautiful, and in
+     the blending of the masculine and feminine graces, in the serene
+     purity of the brow, and the flow of the golden hair, there is
+     something divine; a slight, very slight expression of scorn is in
+     the air of the head. The fiend is the worst part of the picture; it
+     is not a fiend, but a degraded prosaic human ruffian; we laugh with
+     incredulous contempt at the idea of an angel called down from
+     heaven to overcome such a wretch. In Raphael the fiend is human,
+     but the head has the god-like ugliness and malignity of a satyr;
+     Guido's fiend is only stupid and base. It appears to me that there
+     is just the same difference--the same _kind_ of difference--between
+     the angel of Raphael and the angel of Guido, as between the
+     description in Tasso and the description in Milton; let any one
+     compare them. In Tasso we are struck by the picturesque elegance of
+     the description as a piece of art, the melody of the verse, the
+     admirable choice of the expressions, as in Guido by the finished
+     but somewhat artificial and studied grace. In Raphael and Milton we
+     see only the vision of a 'shape divine.'"--_Jameson's Sacred Art_,
+     p. 107.
+
+In the same chapel is a picture by _Gherardo della Notte_ of Christ in
+the purple robe. The third chapel contains a fresco by _Domenichino_ of
+the Death of St Francis, and a picture of the Ecstasy of St. Francis,
+which was a gift from the same painter to this church.
+
+The first chapel on the left contains The Visit of Ananias to Saul, by
+_Pietro da Cortona_.
+
+     "Whoever would know to what length this painter carried his style
+     in his altar-piece should examine the Conversion of St. Paul in the
+     Cappuccini at Rome, which though placed opposite to the St. Michael
+     of Guido, cannot fail to excite the admiration of such judges as
+     are willing to admit various styles of beauty in art."--_Lanzi._
+
+On the left of the high-altar is the tomb of Prince Alexander Sobieski,
+son of John III., king of Poland, who died at Rome in 1714.
+
+The church was founded in 1624, by Cardinal Barberini, the old
+monk-brother of Urban VIII., who, while his nephews were employed in
+building magnificent palaces, refused to take advantage of the family
+elevation otherwise than to endow this church and convent. He is buried
+in front of the altar, with the remarkable epitaph--very different to
+the pompous, self-glorifying inscriptions of his brother--
+
+    "Hic jacet pulvis, cinis, et nihil."
+
+This Cardinal Barberini possesses some historical interest from the
+patronage he extended to Milton during his visit to Rome in 1638.
+
+     "During his sojourn in Rome Milton enjoyed the conversation of
+     several learned and ingenious men, and particularly of Lucas
+     Holsteinius, keeper of the Vatican library, who received him with
+     the greatest humanity, and showed him all the Greek authors,
+     whether in print or MS.--which had passed through his correction;
+     and also presented him to Cardinal Barberini, who, at an
+     entertainment of music, performed at his own expense, waited for
+     him at the door, and taking him by the hand, brought him into the
+     assembly. The next morning he waited upon the Cardinal to return
+     him thanks for these civilities, and by the means of Holsteinius
+     was again introduced to his Eminence, and spent some time in
+     conversation with him."--_Newton's Life of Milton._[240]
+
+Over the entrance is a cartoon (with some differences) for the Navicella
+of Giotto.
+
+From this church is entered the famous cemetery of the Cappuccini (not
+subterranean), consisting of four chambers, ornamented with human bones
+in patterns, and with mummified bodies. The earth was brought from
+Jerusalem. As the cemetery was too small for the convent, when any monk
+died, the one who had been buried longest was ejected to make room for
+him. The loss of a grave was supposed to be amply compensated by the
+short rest in the holy earth which the body had already enjoyed. It is
+pleasant to read on the spot the pretty sketch in the "Improvisatore."
+
+     "I was playing near the church of the Capuchins, with some other
+     children who were all younger than myself. There was fastened on
+     the church door a little cross of metal; it was fastened about the
+     middle of the door, and I could just reach it with my hand. Always
+     when our mothers had passed by with us they had lifted us up that
+     we might kiss the holy sign. One day, when we children were
+     playing, one of the youngest of them inquired, 'why the child Jesus
+     did not come down and play with us?' I assumed an air of wisdom,
+     and replied that he was really bound upon the cross. We went to the
+     church door, and although we found no one, we wished, as our
+     mothers had taught us, to kiss him, but we could not reach up to
+     it; one therefore lifted up the other, but just as the lips were
+     pointed for the kiss, that one who lifted the other lost his
+     strength, and the kissing one fell down just when his lips were
+     about to touch the invisible child Jesus. At that moment my mother
+     came by, and when she saw our child's play, she folded her hands,
+     and said, 'You are actually some of God's angels, and thou art mine
+     own angel,' added she, and kissed me.
+
+     "The Capuchin monk, Fra Martino, was my mother's confessor. He made
+     very much of me, and gave me a picture of the Virgin, weeping great
+     tears, which fell, like rain-drops, down into the burning flames of
+     hell, where the damned caught this draught of refreshment. He took
+     me over with him into the convent, where the open colonnade, which
+     enclosed in a square the little potato-garden, with the two cypress
+     and orange-trees, made a very deep impression upon me. Side by
+     side, in the open passages, hung old portraits of deceased monks,
+     and on the door of each cell were pasted pictures from the history
+     of the martyrs, which I contemplated with the same holy emotions as
+     afterwards the masterpieces of Raphael and Andrea del Sarto.
+
+     "'Thou art really a bright youth,' said he; 'thou shall now see the
+     dead.' Upon this, he opened a little door of a gallery which lay a
+     few steps below the colonnade. We descended, and now I saw round
+     about me skulls upon skulls, so placed one upon another, that they
+     formed walls, and therewith several chapels. In these were regular
+     niches, in which were seated perfect skeletons of the most
+     distinguished of the monks, enveloped in their brown cowls, their
+     cords round their waists, and with a breviary or withered bunch of
+     flowers in their hands. Altars, chandeliers, bas-reliefs, of human
+     joints, horrible and tasteless as the whole idea. I clung fast to
+     the monk, who whispered a prayer, and then said to me, 'Here also I
+     shall some time sleep; wilt thou thus visit me?'
+
+     "I answered not a word, but looked horrified at him, and then round
+     about me upon the strange grizzly assembly. It was foolish to take
+     me, a child, into this place. I was singularly impressed with the
+     whole thing, and did not feel myself easy again until I came into
+     his little cell, where the beautiful yellow oranges almost hung in
+     at the window, and I saw the brightly coloured picture of the
+     Madonna, who was borne upwards by angels into the clear sunshine,
+     while a thousand flowers filled the grave in which she had
+     rested.....
+
+     "On the festival of All-Saints I was down in the chapel of the
+     dead, where Fra Martino took me when I first visited the convent.
+     All the monks sang masses for the dead, and I, with two other boys
+     of my own age, swung the incense-breathing censer before the great
+     altar of skulls. They had placed lights in the chandeliers made of
+     bones, new garlands were placed around the brows of the skeleton
+     monks, and fresh bouquets in their hands. Many people, as usual,
+     thronged in; they all knelt and the singers intoned the solemn
+     Miserere. I gazed for a long time on the pale yellow skulls, and
+     the fumes of the incense which wavered in strange shapes between me
+     and them, and everything began to swim round before my eyes; it was
+     as if I saw everything through a large rainbow; as if a thousand
+     prayer-bells rung in my ear; it seemed as if I was borne along a
+     stream; it was unspeakably delicious--more, I know not;
+     consciousness left me,--I was in a swoon."--_Hans Ch. Andersen._
+
+The street behind the Piazza Cappuccini leads to the _Church of S.
+Isidoro_,[241] built 1622, for Irish Franciscan monks. The altar-piece,
+representing S. Isidore, is by _Andrea Sacchi_. This church contains
+several tombs of distinguished Irishmen who have died in Rome.
+
+Opposite are the recently founded convent and small chapel of the
+_Pregatrici_--nuns most picturesquely attired in blue and white, and
+devoted to the perpetual adoration of the Sacrament, who sing during the
+Benediction service, like the nuns of the Trinità di Monti.
+
+The _Via S. Niccolo in Tolentino_ leads by the handsome Church of that
+name, from the Piazza Barberini to the railway station. In this street
+are the hotels "Costanzi" and "Del Globo."
+
+Parallel with, and behind this, the _Via S. Basilio_ runs up the
+hill-side. At the top of this street is the entrance of the _Villa
+Massimo Rignano_, containing some fine palm-trees. This site, with the
+ridge of the opposite hill, and the valley between, was once occupied by
+the _Gardens of Sallust_ (Horti Pretiosissimi), purchased for the
+emperors after the death of the historian, and a favourite residence of
+Vespasian, Nerva, and especially of Aurelian. Some vaulted halls under
+the cliff of the opposite hill, and a circular ruin surrounded by
+niches, are the only remains of the many fine buildings which once
+existed here, and which comprised a palace, baths, and the portico
+called Milliarensis, 1000 feet long. These edifices are known to have
+been ruined when Rome was taken by the Goths under Alaric (410), who
+entered at the neighbouring Porta Salara. The obelisk now in front of
+the Trinità di Monti, was removed from hence by Pius VI. The picturesque
+old casino of the Barberini, which occupied the most prominent position
+in the gardens, was pulled down in 1869, to make way for a house
+belonging to Spithover the librarian. The hill-side is supported by long
+picturesque buttresses, beneath which are remains of the huge masonry of
+Servius Tullius, whose _Agger_ may be traced on the ridge of the hill
+running towards the present railway station. Part of these grounds are
+supposed to have formed the Campus Sceleratus, where the vestal virgins
+suffered who had broken their vows of chastity.
+
+     "When condemned by the college of pontifices, the vestal was
+     stripped of her vittæ and other badges of office, was scourged, was
+     attired like a corpse, placed in a close litter, and borne through
+     the forum, attended by her weeping kindred with all the ceremonies
+     of a real funeral, to the Campus Sceleratus, within the city walls,
+     close to the Colline gate. There a small vault underground had been
+     previously prepared, containing a couch, a lamp, and a table with a
+     little food. The Pontifex Maximus, having lifted up his hands to
+     heaven and uttered a secret prayer, opened the litter, led forth
+     the culprit, and placing her on the steps of the ladder which gave
+     access to the subterranean cell, delivered her over to the common
+     executioner and his assistants, who conducted her down, drew up the
+     ladder, and having filled the pit with earth until the surface was
+     level with the surrounding ground, left her to perish deprived of
+     all the tributes of respect usually paid to the spirits of the
+     departed. In every case the paramour was publicly scourged to death
+     in the forum."--_Smith's Dict. of Antiquities._
+
+     "A Vignaiuolo showed us in the Gardens of Sallust a hole, through
+     which he said those vestal virgins were put who had violated their
+     vows of chastity. While we were listening to their story, some
+     pretty Contadini came up to us attended by their rustic swains, and
+     after looking into the hole, pitied the vestal
+     virgins--'_Poverine_,' shrugged their shoulders, and laughing,
+     thanked their stars and the Madonna, that poor Fanciulle were not
+     buried alive for such things now-a-days."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+A turn in the road now leads to the gate of the beautiful _Villa
+Ludovisi_, to which it has been very difficult to obtain admittance
+since the Sardinian occupation. The excellent proprietors, the Duke and
+Duchess Sora, have lived at Foligno in complete seclusion, since the
+change of government.
+
+The villa was built early in the last century by Cardinal Ludovisi,
+nephew of Gregory XV., from whom it descended to the Prince of Piombino,
+father of Duke Sora. The grounds, which are of an extent extraordinary
+when considered as being within the walls of a capital, were laid out by
+Le Nôtre, and are in the stiff French style of high clipped hedges, and
+avenues adorned with vases and sarcophagi. Near the entrance is a pretty
+fountain shaded by a huge plane-tree; the Quirinal is seen in the
+distance.
+
+To the right of the entrance is the principal casino of sculptures, a
+very beautiful collection (catalogues on the spot). Especially
+remarkable are,--the grand colossal head, known as the "Ludovisi Juno"
+(41);
+
+     "A Rome, une Junon surpasse toutes les autres par son aspect et
+     rappelle la Junon de Polyclète par sa majesté: c'est la célèbre
+     Junon Ludovisi que Goethe admirait tant, et devant laquelle dans un
+     accès de dévotion païenne,--seul genre de dévotion qu'il ait connu
+     à Rome,--il faisait, nous dit-il, sa prière du matin.
+
+     "Cette tête colossale de Junon offre bien les caractères de la
+     sculpture de Polyclète; la gravité, la grandeur, la dignité; mais
+     ainsi que dans d'autres Junons qu'on peut supposer avoir été
+     sculptées à Rome, l'imitateur de Polyclète, on doit le croire,
+     adoucit la sévérité, je dirai presque la dureté de l'original,
+     telle qu'elle se montre sur les médailles d'Argos, et celles
+     d'Elis."--_Ampère, Hist. Romaine_, iii. 264.
+
+     "No words can give a true impression of the colossal head of Juno
+     in the Villa Ludovisi: it is like a song of Homer."--_Goethe._
+
+--the _Statue of Mars_ seated (I), with a Cupid at his feet, found in
+the portico of Octavia, and restored by Bernini;
+
+     "II y avait bien un Mars assis de Scopas, et ce Mars était à Rome;
+     mais un dieu dans son temple devait être assis sur un trône et non
+     sur un rocher, comme le prétendu Mars Ludovisi. On a donc eu
+     raison, selon moi, de reconnaître dans cette belle statue un
+     Achille, à l'expression pensive de son visage, et surtout à
+     l'attitude caractéristique que le sculpteur lui a donnée, lui
+     faisant embrasser son genou avec ses deux mains, attitude qui, dans
+     le langage de la sculpture antique, était le signe d'une méditation
+     douloureuse. On citait comme très-beau un Achille de Silanion,
+     sculpteur grec habile à rendre les sentiments violents. D'après
+     cela, son Achille pouvait être un Achille indigné; c'est de lui que
+     viendrait l'Achille de la villa Ludovisi. L'expression de dépit,
+     plus énergique dans l'original, eût été adoucie dans une admirable
+     copie.'--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 437.
+
+--and No. 28;
+
+     "Le beau groupe auquel on avait donné le nom d'Arria et Pætus; il
+     fallait fermer les yeux à l'évidence pour voir un Romain du temps
+     de Claude dans ce chef barbare qui, après avoir tué sa femme, se
+     frappe lui-même d'un coup mortel. Le type du visage, la chevelure,
+     le caractère de l'action, tout est gaulois; la manière même dont
+     s'accomplit l'immolation volontaire montre que ce n'est pas un
+     Romain que nous avons devant les yeux; un Romain se tuait plus
+     simplement, avec moins de fracas. Le principal personnage du groupe
+     Ludovisi conserve en ce moment suprême quelque chose de triomphant
+     et de théâtral; soulevant d'une main sa femme affaissée sous le
+     coup qu'il lui a porté, de l'autre il enfonce son épée dans sa
+     poitrine. La tête haute, l'oeil tourné vers le ciel, il semble
+     répéter le mot de sa race: 'Je ne crains qu'une chose, c'est que le
+     ciel tombe sur ma tête.'"--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 207.
+
+At the end of the gardens, to the left, is another casino, from whose
+roof a most beautiful view may be obtained. Here are the most famous
+frescoes of _Guercino_. On the ceiling of the ground-floor, Aurora
+driving away Night and scattering flowers in her course, with Evening
+and Daybreak in the lunettes; and, on the first floor, "Fame" attended
+by Force and Virtue. Smaller rooms on the ground floor have landscapes
+by _Guercino_ and _Domenichino_, and some groups of Cupids by _T.
+Zucchero_; on the staircase is a fine bas-relief of two Cupids dragging
+a quiver.
+
+     "The prophets and sibyls of Guercino da Cento (1590--1666), and his
+     Aurora, in a garden pavilion of the Villa Ludovisi, at Rome, almost
+     attain to the effect of oil paintings in their glowing colouring
+     combined with the broad and dark masses of shadow."--_Kugler._
+
+     "In allegorising nature, Guercino imitates the deep shades of
+     night, the twilight grey, and the irradiations of morning, with all
+     the magic of _chiaroscuro_; but his figures are too mortal for the
+     region where they move."--_Forsyth._
+
+In B.C. 82, the district near the Porta Collina, now occupied by the
+Villa Ludovisi, was the scene of a great battle for the very existence
+of Rome, between Sylla, and the Samnites and Lucanians under the Samnite
+general Pontius Telesinus, who declared he would raze the city to the
+ground if he were victorious. The left wing under Sylla was put to
+flight; but the right wing, commanded by Crassus, enabled him to restore
+the battle, and to gain a complete victory; fifty thousand men fell on
+each side.
+
+The road now runs along the ridge of the hill to the Porta Salara, by
+which Alaric entered Rome through the treachery of the Isaurian guard,
+on the 24th of August, 410.
+
+Passing through the gate and turning to the right along the outside of
+the wall, we may see, against the grounds of the Villa Ludovisi, the two
+round towers of the now closed _Porta Pinciana_, restored by Belisarius.
+This is the place where tradition declares that in his declining years
+the great general sat begging, with the cry, "Date obolum Belisario."
+
+     "A côté de la Porta Pinciana, on lit sur une pierre les paroles
+     célèbres: 'Donnez une obole à Bélisaire'; mais cette inscription
+     est moderne, comme la légende à laquelle elle fait allusion, et
+     qu'on ne trouve dans nul historien contemporain de Bélisaire.
+     Bélisaire ne demanda jamais l'aumône, et si le cicerone montre
+     encore aux voyageurs l'endroit où, vieux et aveugle, il implorait
+     une obole de la charité des passants, c'est que près de ce lieu il
+     avait, sur la colline du Pincio, son palais, situé entre les
+     jardins de Lucullus et les jardins de Salluste, et digne
+     probablement de ce double voisinage par sa magnificence. Ce qui est
+     vrai, c'est que le vainqueur des Goths et des Vandales fut
+     disgracié par Justinien, grâce aux intrigues de Théodora. La
+     légende, comme presque toujours, a exprimé par une fable une
+     vérité, l'ingratitude si fréquente des souverains envers ceux qui
+     leur ont rendu lus plus grands services."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 396.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A short distance from the gate, along the Via Salara, is, on the right,
+the _Villa Albani_ (shown on Tuesdays by an order), built in 1760 by
+Cardinal Alessandro Albani,--sold in 1834 to the Count of Castelbarco,
+and in 1868 to Prince Torlonia, its present possessor. The scene from
+its garden terrace is among the loveliest of Roman pictures, the view of
+the delicate Sabine mountains--Monte Gennaro, with the Montecelli
+beneath it--and in the middle distance, the churches of Sant' Agnese and
+Sta. Costanza, relieved by dark cypresses and a graceful fountain.
+
+The _Casino_, which is, in fact, a magnificent palace, is remarkable as
+having been built from Cardinal Albani's own designs, Carlo Marchionni
+having been only employed to see that they were carried out.
+
+     "Here is a villa of exquisite design, planned by a profound
+     antiquary. Here Cardinal Albani, having spent his life in
+     collecting ancient sculpture, formed such porticoes and such
+     saloons to receive it as an old Roman would have done: porticoes
+     where the statues stood free upon the pavement between columns
+     proportioned to their stature; saloons which were not stocked but
+     embellished with families of allied statues, and seemed full
+     without a crowd. Here Winckelmann grew into an antiquary under the
+     cardinal's patronage and instruction; and here he projected his
+     history of art, which brings this collection continually into
+     view."--_Forsyth's Italy._
+
+The collection of sculptures is much reduced since the French invasion,
+when 294 of the finest specimens were carried off by Napoleon to Paris,
+where they were sold by Prince Albani upon their restoration in 1815, as
+he was unwilling to bear the expense of transport. The greater
+proportion of the remaining statues are of no great importance. Those of
+the imperial family in the vestibule are interesting--those of Julius
+and Augustus Cæsar, of Agrippina wife of Germanicus, and of Faustina,
+are seated; most of the heads have been restored.
+
+Conspicuous among the treasures of this villa, are the sarcophagus with
+reliefs of the marriage of Peleus and Thetis, pronounced by Winckelmann
+to be one of the finest in existence; a head of Æsop, supposed to be
+after Lysippus; and the bronze "Apollo Sauroctonos," considered by
+Winckelmann to be the original statue by Praxiteles described by Pliny,
+and the most beautiful bronze statue in the world,--it was found on the
+Aventine. But most important of all is the famous relievo of Antinous
+crowned with lotus, from the Villa Adriana (over the chimney-piece of
+the first room to the right of the saloon), supposed to have formed part
+of an apotheosis of Antinous:
+
+     "As fresh, and as highly finished, as if it had just left the
+     studio of the sculptor, this work, after the Apollo and the
+     Laocoon, is perhaps the most beautiful monument of antiquity which
+     time has transmitted to us."--_Winckelmann, Hist. de l'Art_, vi.
+     ch. 7.
+
+Inferior only to this, is another bas-relief, also over a
+chimney-piece,--the parting of Orpheus and Eurydice.
+
+     "Les deux époux vont se quitter. Eurydice attache sur Orphée un
+     profond regard d'adieu. Sa main est posée sur l'épaule de son
+     époux, geste ordinaire dans les groupes qui expriment la séparation
+     de ceux qui s'aiment. La main d'Orphée dégage doucement celle
+     d'Eurydice, tandis que Mercure fait de la sienne un léger mouvement
+     pour l'entraîner. Dans ce léger mouvement est tout leur sort;
+     l'effet le plus pathétique est produit par la composition la plus
+     simple; l'émotion la plus pénétrante s'exhale de la sculpture la
+     plus tranquille."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 256.
+
+The villa also contains a collection of pictures, of which the most
+interesting are the sketches of _Giulio Romano_ for the frescoes of the
+story of Psyche in the Palazzo del Te at Mantua, and two fine pictures
+by Luca Signorelli and Perugino, in compartments, in the first room on
+the left of the saloon. All the works of art have lately been
+rearranged. The _Caffè_ and the _Bigliardo_--(reached by an avenue of
+oaks, which, being filled with ancient tombstones, has the effect of a
+cemetery)--contain more statues, but of less importance.
+
+Beyond the villa, the Via Salara (said by Pliny to derive its name from
+the salt of Ostia exported to the north by this route) passes on the
+left the site of Antemnæ, and crosses the Anio two miles from the city,
+by the _Ponte Salara_, destroyed by the Roman government in the terror
+of Garibaldi's approach from Monte Rotondo, in 1867. This bridge was a
+restoration by Narses, in the sixth century, but stood on the
+foundations of that famous Ponte Salara, upon which Titus Manlius fought
+the Gaulish giant, and cutting off his head, carried off the golden
+collar which earned him the name of Torquatus.
+
+     "Manlius prend un bouclier léger de fantassin, une épée espagnole
+     commode pour combattre de très-près, et s'avance à la rencontre du
+     Barbare. Les deux champions, isolés sur le pont, comme sur un
+     théâtre, se joignent au milieu. Le Barbare portait un vêtement
+     bariolé et une armure ornée de dessins et d'incrustations dorées,
+     conforme au caractère de sa race, aussi vaine que vaillante. Les
+     armes du Romain étaient bonnes, mais sans éclat. Point chez lui,
+     comme chez son adversaire, de chant, de transports, d'armes agitées
+     avec fureur, mais un coeur plein de courage et d'une colère
+     muette qu'il réservait tout entière pour le combat.
+
+     "Le Gaulois, qui dépassait son adversaire de toute la tête, met en
+     avant son bouclier et fait tomber pesamment son glaive sur l'armure
+     de son adversaire. Celui-ci le heurte deux fois de son bouclier, le
+     force à reculer, le trouble, et se glissant alors entre le bouclier
+     et le corps du Gaulois, de deux coups rapidement portés lui ouvre
+     le ventre. Quand le grand corps est tombé, Manlius lui coupe la
+     tête, et, ramassant le collier de son ennemi décapité, jette tout
+     sanglant sur son cou ce collier, le _torques_, propre aux Gaulois,
+     et qu'on peut voir au Capitole porté par celui qu'on appelle à tort
+     le gladiateur mourant. Un soldat donne, en plaisantant, à Manlius
+     le sobriquet de _Torquatus_, que sa famille a toujours été fière de
+     porter."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 10.
+
+Beyond the ruins of the bridge, is a huge tomb with a tower, now used as
+an Osteria. Hence, the road leads by the Villa of Phaon (Villa Spada)
+where Nero died, and the site of Fidenæ, now known as Castel Giubeleo,
+to Monte Rotondo.
+
+The district beyond the Porta Salara, and that extending between the Via
+Salara and the Monte Parioli, are completely undermined by catacombs
+(see Ch. IX.). The most important are--1. Nearest the gate, the
+_Catacomb of St. Felicitas_, which had three tiers of galleries, adorned
+by Pope Boniface I., who took refuge there from persecution,--now much
+dilapidated. Over this cemetery was a church, now destroyed, which is
+mentioned by William of Malmesbury. 2. _The Catacomb of SS. Thraso and
+Saturninus_, much decorated with the usual paintings. 3. _The Catacomb
+of Sta. Priscilla_, near the descent to the Anio. This cemetery is of
+great interest, from the number of martyrs' graves it contains, and from
+its peculiar construction in an ancient _arenarium_, pillars and walls
+of masonry being added throughout the central part, in order to sustain
+the tufa walls. Here were buried--probably because the entrance to the
+Chapel of the Popes at St. Calixtus was blocked up to preserve it in the
+persecution under Diocletian--Pope St. Marcellinus (ob. 308), and Pope
+St. Marcellus (ob. 310), who was sent into exile by Maxentius. On the
+tomb of the latter was placed, in finely cut type, the following epitaph
+by Pope Damasus:--
+
+    "Veredicus Rector, lapsos quia crimina flere
+    Prædixit, miseris fuit omnibus hostis amarus.
+    Hinc furor, hinc odium sequitur, discordia, lites,
+    Seditio, cædes, solvuntur foedera pacis.
+    Crimen ob alterius Christum qui in pace negavit,
+    Finibus expulsus patriæ est feritate tyranni.
+    Hæc breviter Damasus voluit comperta referre,
+    Marcelli ut populus meritum cognoscere posset."
+
+     "The truth-speaking pope, because he preached that the lapsed
+     should weep for their crimes, was bitterly hated by all those
+     unhappy ones. Hence followed fury, hatred, discord, contentions,
+     sedition, and slaughter, and the bonds of peace were ruptured. For
+     the crime of another, who in (a time of) peace had denied Christ,
+     (the pontiff) was expelled the shores of his country by the cruelty
+     of the tyrant. These things Damasus having learnt, was desirous to
+     narrate briefly, that people might recognise the merit of
+     Marcellus."[242]
+
+Several of the paintings in this catacomb are remarkable; especially
+that of a woman with a child, claimed by the Roman Church as one of the
+earliest representations of the Virgin. The painting is thus described
+by Northcote:--
+
+     "De Rossi unhesitatingly says that he believes this painting of our
+     Blessed Lady to belong almost to the apostolic age. It is to be
+     seen on the vaulted roof of a _loculus_, and represents the Blessed
+     Virgin seated, her head partially covered by a short light veil,
+     and with the Holy Child in her arms; opposite to her stands a man,
+     clothed in the pallium, holding a volume in one hand, and with the
+     other pointing to a star which appears above and between the
+     figures. This star almost always accompanies our Blessed Lady, both
+     in paintings and in sculptures, where there is an obvious
+     historical excuse for it, _e. g._, when she is represented with the
+     Magi offering their gifts, or by the side of the manger with the ox
+     and the ass; but with a single figure, as in the present instance,
+     it is unusual. The most obvious conjecture would be that the figure
+     was meant for St. Joseph, or for one of the Magi. De Rossi,
+     however, gives many reasons for preferring the prophet Isaias,
+     whose prophecies concerning the Messias abound with imagery
+     borrowed from light."--_Roma Sotterranea._
+
+This catacomb is one of the oldest, Sta. Priscilla, from whom it is
+named, being supposed to have been the mother of Pudens, and a
+contemporary of the apostles. Her granddaughters, Prassede and
+Pudenziana, were buried here before the removal of their relics to the
+church on the Esquiline. With this cemetery is connected the
+extraordinary history of the manufacture of Sta. Filomena, now one of
+the most popular saints in Italy, and one towards whom idolatry is
+carried out with frantic enthusiasm both at Domo d'Ossola and in some of
+the Neapolitan States. The story of this saint is best told in the words
+of Mrs. Jameson.
+
+     "In the year 1802, while some excavations were going forward in the
+     catacomb of Priscilla, a sepulchre was discovered containing the
+     skeleton of a young female; on the exterior were rudely painted
+     some of the symbols constantly recurring in these chambers of the
+     dead; an anchor, an olive branch (emblems of Hope and Peace), a
+     scourge, two arrows, and a javelin: above them the following
+     inscription, of which the beginning and end were destroyed:--
+
+    ----LUMENA PAX TE CUM FI----
+
+     "The remains, reasonably supposed to be those of one of the early
+     martyrs for the faith, were sealed up and deposited in the treasury
+     of relics in the Lateran; here they remained for some years
+     unthought of. On the return of Pius VII. from France, a Neapolitan
+     prelate was sent to congratulate him. One of the priests in his
+     train, who wished to create a sensation in his district, where the
+     long residence of the French had probably caused some decay of
+     piety, begged for a few relics to carry home, and these recently
+     discovered remains were bestowed on him; the inscription was
+     translated somewhat freely, to signify _Santa Philumena, rest in
+     peace_. Another priest, whose name is suppressed _because of his
+     great humility_, was favoured by a vision in the broad noon-day, in
+     which he beheld the glorious virgin Filomena, who was pleased to
+     reveal to him that she had suffered death for preferring the
+     Christian faith and her vow of chastity to the addresses of the
+     emperor, who wished to make her his wife. This vision leaving much
+     of her history obscure, a certain young artist, whose name is also
+     suppressed, perhaps because of his great humility, was informed in
+     a vision that the emperor alluded to was Diocletian, and at the
+     same time the torments and persecutions suffered by the Christian
+     virgin Filomena, as well as her wonderful constancy, were also
+     revealed to him. There were some difficulties in the way of the
+     Emperor Diocletian, which _incline_ the writer of the _historical_
+     account to incline to the opinion that the young artist in his
+     wisdom _may_ have made a mistake, and that the emperor may have
+     been not Diocletian but Maximian. The facts, however, now admitted
+     of no doubt; the relics were carried by the priest Francesco da
+     Lucia to Naples; they were enclosed in a case of wood resembling in
+     form the human body; this figure was habited in a petticoat of
+     white satin, and over it a crimson tunic after the Greek fashion;
+     the face was painted to represent nature, a garland of flowers was
+     placed on the head, and in the hands a lily and a javelin with the
+     point reversed to express her purity and her martyrdom; then she
+     was laid in a half-sitting posture in a sarcophagus, of which the
+     sides were glass, and, after lying for some time in state in the
+     chapel of the Torres family in the Church of Sant' Angiolo, she was
+     carried in grand procession to Mugnano, a little town about twenty
+     miles from Naples, amid the acclamations of the people, working
+     many and surprising miracles by the way.... Such is the legend of
+     Sta. Filomena, and such the authority on which she has become
+     within the last twenty years one of the most popular saints in
+     Italy."--_Sacred and Legendary Art_, p. 671.
+
+It is hoped that very interesting relics may still be discovered in this
+Catacomb.
+
+     "In an account preserved by St. Gregory of Tours, we are told that
+     under Numerianus, the martyrs Chrysanthus and Daria were put to
+     death in an _arenaria_, and that a great number of the faithful
+     having been seen entering a subterranean crypt on the Via Salara,
+     to visit their tombs, the heathen emperor caused the entrance to be
+     hastily built up, and a vast mound of sand and stone to be heaped
+     in front of it, so that they might be all buried alive, even as the
+     martyrs whom they had come to venerate. St. Gregory adds, that when
+     the tombs of these martyrs were re-discovered, after the ages of
+     persecution had ceased, there were found with them, not only the
+     relics of those worshippers who had been thus cruelly put to death,
+     skeletons of men, women, and children lying on the floor, but also
+     the silver cruets (_urcei argentei_) which they had taken down with
+     them for the celebration of the sacred mysteries. St. Damasus was
+     unwilling to destroy so touching a memorial of past ages. He
+     abstained from making any of those changes by which he usually
+     decorated the martyrs' tombs, but contented himself with setting up
+     one of his invaluable historical inscriptions, and opening a window
+     in the adjacent wall or rock, that all might see, without
+     disturbing, this monument so unique in its kind--this Christian
+     Pompeii in miniature. These things might still be seen in St.
+     Gregory's time, in the sixth century; and De Rossi holds out hopes
+     that some traces of them may be restored even to our own
+     generation, some fragments of the inscription perhaps, or even the
+     window itself through which our ancestors once saw so moving a
+     spectacle, assisting, as it were, at a mass celebrated in the third
+     century."--_Roma Sotterranea_, p. 88.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Returning to the Porta Salara, and following the walls, we reach the
+_Porta Pia_, built, as it is now seen, by Pius IX.--very ugly, but
+appropriately decorated with statues of St. Agnes and St. Alexander, to
+whose shrines it leads. The statues lost their heads in the capture of
+Rome in 1870 by the Italian troops, who entered the city by a breach in
+the walls close to this. A little to the right was the _Porta
+Nomentana_, flanked by round towers, closed by Pius IV. It was by this
+gate that the oppressed Roman people retreated to the Mons Sacer--and
+that Nero fled.
+
+     "Suivons-le du Grand-Cirque à la porte Nomentane. Quel spectacle!
+     Néron, accoutumé à toutes les recherches de la volupté, s'avance à
+     cheval, les pieds nus, en chemise, couvert d'un vieux manteau dont
+     la couleur était passée, un mouchoir sur le visage. Quatre
+     personnes seulement l'accompagnent; parmi elles est ce Sporus, que
+     dans un jour d'indicible folie il avait publiquement épousé. Il
+     sent la terre trembler, il voit les éclairs au ciel: Néron a peur.
+     Tous ceux qu'il a fait mourir lui apparaissent et semblent se
+     précipiter sur lui. Nous voici à la porte Nomentane, qui touche au
+     Camp des Prétoriens. Néron reconnaît ce lieu où, il y a quinze ans,
+     suivant alors le chemin qu'il vient de suivre, il est venu se faire
+     reconnaître empereur par les prétoriens. En passant sous les murs
+     de leur camp, vers lequel son destin le ramène, il les entend
+     former des voeux pour Galba, et lancer des imprécations contre
+     lui. Un passant lui dit: 'Voilà des gens qui cherchent Néron.' Son
+     cheval se cabre au milieu de la route: c'est qu'il a flairé un
+     cadavre. Le mouchoir qui couvrait son visage tombe; un prétorien
+     qui se trouvait là le ramasse et le rend à l'empereur, qu'il salue
+     par son nom. A chacun de ces incidents son effroi redouble. Enfin
+     il est arrivé à un petit chemin qui s'ouvre à notre gauche, dans la
+     direction de la voie Salara, parallèle à la voie Nomentane. C'est
+     entre ces deux voies qu'était la villa de Phaon, à quatre milles de
+     Rome. Pour l'attendre, Néron, qui a mis pied à terre, s'enfonce à
+     travers un fourré d'épines et un champ de roseaux comme il s'en
+     trouve tant dans la Campagne de Rome; il a peine de s'y frayer un
+     chemin; il arrive ainsi au mur de derrière de la villa. Près de là
+     était un de ces antres creusés pour l'extraction du sable
+     volcanique, appelé _pouzzolane_, tels qu'on en voit encore de ce
+     côté. Phaon engage le fugitif à s'y cacher; il refuse. On fait un
+     trou dans la muraille de la villa par où il pénètre, marchant
+     quatre pieds, dans l'intérieur. Il entre dans une petite salle et
+     se couche sur un lit formé d'un méchant matelas sur lequel on avait
+     jeté un vieux manteau. Ceux qui l'entourent le pressent de mourir
+     pour échapper aux outrages et au supplice. Il essaye à plusieurs
+     reprises de se donner la mort et n'y peut se résoudre; il pleure.
+     Enfin, en entendant les cavaliers qui venaient le saisir, il cite
+     un vers grec, fait un effort et se tue avec le secours d'un
+     affranchi."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 65.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Immediately outside the Porta Pia is the entrance of the beautiful
+_Villa Patrizi_, whose grounds enclose the small _Catacomb of St.
+Nicomedus_. Then comes the _Villa Lezzani_, where Sta. Giustina is
+buried in a chapel, and where her festa is observed on the 25th of
+October.
+
+Beyond this is the ridiculous _Villa Torlonia_ (shown with an order on
+Wednesdays from 11 to 4, but not worth seeing), sprinkled with mock
+ruins.
+
+At little more than a mile from the gate the road reaches the _Basilica
+of St' Agnese fuori le Mura_, founded by Constantine at the request of
+his daughter Constantia, in honour of the virgin martyr buried in the
+neighbouring catacomb; but rebuilt 625--38 by Honorius I. It was altered
+in 1490 by Innocent VIII., but retains more of its ancient character
+than most of the Roman churches. The polychrome decorations of the
+interior, and the rebuilding of the monastery, were carried out at the
+expense of Pius IX., as a thank-offering for his escape, when he fell
+through the floor here into a cellar, with his cardinals and attendants,
+on April 15, 1855. The scene is represented in a large fresco by
+_Domenico Tojetti_, in a chamber on the right of the courtyard.
+
+The approach to the church is by a picturesque staircase of forty-five
+ancient marble steps, lined with inscriptions from the catacombs. The
+nave is divided from the aisles by sixteen columns, four of which are of
+"porta-santa" and two of "pavonazzetto." A smaller range of columns
+above these supports the roof of a triforium, which is on a level with
+the road. The baldacchino, erected in 1614, is supported by four
+porphyry columns. Beneath is the shrine of St. Agnes surmounted by her
+statue, an antique of oriental alabaster, with modern head, and hands of
+gilt bronze. The mosaics of the tribune, representing St. Agnes between
+Popes Honorius I. and Symmachus, are of the seventh century. Beneath, is
+an ancient episcopal chair.
+
+The second chapel on the right has a beautiful mosaic altar, and a
+relief of SS. Stephen and Laurence of 1490. The third chapel is that of
+St. Emerentiana, foster-sister of St. Agnes, who was discovered praying
+beside the tomb of her friend, and was stoned to death because she
+refused to sacrifice to idols.
+
+     "So ancient is the worship paid to St. Agnes, that next to the
+     Evangelists and Apostles, there is no saint whose effigy is older.
+     It is found on the ancient glass and earthenware vessels used by
+     the Christians in the early part of the third century, with her
+     name inscribed, which leaves no doubt of her identity. But neither
+     in these images, nor in the mosaics, is the lamb introduced, which
+     in later times has become her inseparable attribute, as the
+     patroness of maidens and maidenly modesty."--_Jameson's Sacred
+     Art_, p. 105.
+
+St. Agnes suffered martyrdom by being stabbed in the throat, under
+Diocletian, in her thirteenth year (see Ch. XIV.), after which,
+according to the expression used in the acts of her martyrdom, her
+parents "with all joy" laid her in the catacombs. One day as they were
+praying near the body of their child, she appeared to them surrounded by
+a great multitude of virgins, triumphant and glorious like herself, with
+a lamb by her side, and said, "I am in heaven, living with these virgins
+my companions, near Him whom I have so much loved." By her tomb, also,
+Constantia, a princess sick with hopeless leprosy, was praying for the
+healing of her body, when she heard a voice saying, "Rise up,
+Constantia, and go on constantly ('Costanter age, Constantia') in the
+faith of Jesus Christ, the Son of God, who shall heal your
+diseases,"--and, being cured of her evil, she besought her father to
+build this basilica as a thank-offering.[243]
+
+On the 21st of January, a beautiful service is celebrated here, in which
+two lambs, typical of the purity of the virgin saint, are blessed upon
+the altar. They are sent by the chapter of St. John Lateran, and their
+wool is afterwards used to make the pallium of the pope, which is
+consecrated before it is worn, by being deposited in a golden urn upon
+the tomb of St. Peter. The pallium is the sign of episcopal
+jurisdiction.
+
+     "Ainsi, le simple ornement de laine que ces prélats doivent porter
+     sur leurs épaules comme symbole de la brebis du bon Pasteur, et que
+     le pontife Romain prend sur l'autel même de Saint Pierre pour le
+     leur adresser, va porter jusqu'aux extrémités de l'Eglise, dans une
+     union sublime, le double sentiment de la force du Prince des
+     Apôtres et de la douceur virginale d'Agnes."--_Dom Guéranger._
+
+Close to St' Agnese is the round _Church of Sta. Costanza_. erected by
+Constantine as a mausoleum for his daughters Constantia and Helena, and
+converted into a church by Alexander IV. (1254--61) in honour of the
+Princess Constantia, ob. 354, whose life is represented by Marcellinus
+as anything but saintlike, and who is supposed to have been confused in
+her canonization with a sainted nun of the same name. The rotunda,
+seventy-three feet in diameter, is surrounded by a vaulted corridor;
+twenty-four double columns of granite support the dome. The vaulting is
+covered with mosaic arabesques of the fourth century, of flowers and
+birds, with scenes referring to a vintage. The same subjects are
+repeated on the splendid porphyry sarcophagus of Sta. Costanza, of which
+the interest is so greatly marred by its removal to the Vatican from its
+proper site, whence it was first stolen by Pope Paul II., who intended
+to use it as his own tomb.
+
+     "Les enfants qui foulent le raisin, tels qu'on les voit dans les
+     mosaïques de l'église de Sainte Constance, les bas-reliefs de son
+     tombeau et ceux de beaucoup d'autres tombeaux chrétiens sont bien
+     d'origine païenne, car on les voit aussi figurer dans les
+     bas-reliefs où paraît Priape."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 257.
+
+Behind the two churches is an oblong space, ending in a fine mass of
+ruin, which is best seen from the valley below. This was long supposed
+to be the Hippodrome of Constantine, but is now discovered to have
+belonged to an early Christian cemetery.
+
+_The Catacomb of St Agnese_ is entered from a vineyard about a quarter
+of a mile beyond the church. It is lighted and opened to the public on
+St. Agnes' Day. After those of St. Calixtus, this, perhaps, is the
+catacomb which is most worthy of a visit.
+
+We enter by a staircase attributed to the time of Constantine. The
+passages are lined with the usual _loculi_ for the dead, sometimes
+adapted for a single body, sometimes for two laid together. Beside many
+of the graves the palm of victory may be seen scratched on the mortar,
+and remains of the glass bottles or _ampullæ_, which are supposed to
+indicate the graves of martyrs, and to have contained a portion of their
+blood, of which they are often said to retain the trace. One of the
+graves in the first gallery bears the names of consuls of A.D. 336,
+which fixes the date of this part of the cemetery.
+
+The most interesting features here are a square chamber hewn in the
+rock, with an arm-chair (_sedia_) cut out of the rock on either side of
+the entrance, supposed to have been a school for catechists,--and near
+this is a second chamber for female catechists, with plain seats in the
+same position. Opening out of the gallery close by is a chamber which
+was apparently used as a chapel; its _arcosolium_ has marks of an altar
+remaining at the top of the grave, and near it is a credence-table; the
+roof is richly painted,--in the central compartment is our Lord seated
+between the rolls of the Old and New Testament. Above the arcosolium, in
+the place of honour, is our Saviour as the Good Shepherd, bearing a
+sheep upon his shoulders, and standing between other sheep and
+trees;--in the other compartments are Daniel in the lions' den, the
+Three Children in the furnace, Moses taking off his shoes, Moses
+striking the rock, and--nearest the entrance--the Paralytic carrying his
+bed. A neighbouring chapel has also remains of an altar and
+credence-table, and well-preserved paintings,--the Good Shepherd, Adam
+and Eve, with the tree between them, Jonah under the gourd, and in the
+fourth compartment a figure described by Protestants merely as an
+Orante, and by Roman Catholics as the Blessed Virgin.[244] Near this
+chapel we can look down through an opening into the second floor of the
+catacomb, which is lined with graves like the first.
+
+In the further part of the catacomb is a long narrow chapel which has
+received the name of the _cathedral_ or _basilica_. It is divided into
+three parts, of which the furthest, or presbytery, contains an ancient
+episcopal chair with lower seats on either side for priests--probably
+the throne where Pope St. Liberius (A.D. 359) officiated, with his face
+to the people, when he lived for more than a year hidden here from
+persecution. Hence a flight of steps leads down to what Northcote calls
+"the Lady Chapel," where, over the altar, is a fresco of an orante,
+without a nimbus, with outstretched arms,--with a child in front of her.
+On either side of this picture, a very interesting one, is the monogram
+of Constantine, and the painting is referred to his time. Near this
+chapel is a chamber with a spring running through it, evidently used as
+a baptistery.
+
+At the extremity of the catacomb, under the basilica of St. Agnes, is
+one of its most interesting features. Here the passages become wider and
+more irregular, the walls sloping and unformed, and graves cease to
+appear, indicating one of the ancient _arenaria_, which here formed the
+approach to the catacomb, and beyond which the Christians excavated
+their cemetery.
+
+The graves throughout almost all the catacombs have been rifled, the
+bones which they contained being distributed as relics throughout Roman
+Catholic Christendom, and most of the sarcophagi and inscriptions
+removed to the Lateran and other museums.
+
+     "Vous pourriez voir ici la capitale des catacombes de toute la
+     chrétienté. Les martyrs, les confesseurs, et les vierges, y
+     fourmillent de tous côtés. Quand on se fait besoin de quelques
+     reliques en pays étrangers, le Pape n'a qu'à descendre ici et
+     crier, _Qui de vous autres veut aller être saint en Pologne?_
+     Alors, s'il se trouve quelque mort de bonne volonté, il se lève et
+     s'en va."--_De Brosses_, 1739.
+
+Half a mile beyond St' Agnese, the road reaches the willow-fringed river
+Anio, in which "Silvia changed her earthly life for that of a goddess,"
+and which carried the cradle containing her two babes Romulus and Remus
+into the Tiber, to be brought to land at the foot of the Palatine
+fig-tree. Into this river we may also recollect that Sylla caused the
+ashes of his ancient rival Marius to be thrown. The river is crossed by
+the _Ponte Nomentana_, a mediæval bridge, partially covered, with forked
+battlements.
+
+     "Ponte Nomentana is a solitary dilapidated bridge in the spacious
+     green Campagna. Many ruins from the days of ancient Rome, and many
+     watch-towers from the middle ages, are scattered over this long
+     succession of meadows; chains of hills rise towards the horizon,
+     now partially covered with snow, and fantastically varied in form
+     and colour by the shadows of the clouds. And there is also the
+     enchanting vapoury vision of the Alban hills, which change their
+     hues like the chameleon, as you gaze at them--where you can see for
+     miles little white chapels glittering on the dark foreground of the
+     hills, as far as the Passionist Convent on the summit, and whence
+     you can trace the road winding through thickets, and the hills
+     sloping downwards to the lake of Albano, while a hermitage peeps
+     through the trees."--_Mendelssohn's Letters._
+
+The hill immediately beyond the bridge is the _Mons Sacer_ (not only the
+part usually pointed out on the right of the road, but the whole
+hillside), to which the famous secession of the Plebs took place in B.C.
+549, amounting, according to Dionysius, to about 4000 persons. Here they
+encamped upon the green slopes for four months, to the terror of the
+patricians, who foresaw that Rome, abandoned by its defenders, would
+fall before its enemies, and that the crops would perish for want of
+cultivation. Here Menenius Agrippa delivered his apologue of the belly
+and its members, which is said to have induced them to return to Rome;
+that which really decided them to do so being the concession of
+tribunes, to be the organs and representatives of the plebs as the
+consuls were of the patricians. The epithet Sacer is ascribed by
+Dionysius to an altar which the plebeians erected at the time on the
+hill to [Greek: Zeus Deimatios].
+
+A second secession to the Mons Sacer took place in B.C. 449, when the
+plebs rose against Appius Claudius after the death of Virginia, and
+retired hither under the advice of M. Duilius, till the decemvirs
+resigned.
+
+Following the road beyond the bridge past the castle known as _Casale
+dei Pazzi_ (once used as a lunatic asylum) and the picturesque tomb
+called Torre Nomentana,--as far as the seventh milestone--we reach the
+remains of the unburied _Basilica of S. Alessandro_, built on the site
+of the place where that pope suffered martyrdom with his companions
+Eventius and Theodulus, A.D. 119, and was buried on the same spot by the
+Christian matron Severina.[245] The plan of the basilica, disinterred
+1856-7, is still quite perfect. The tribune and high altar retain
+fragments of rich marbles and alabasters; the episcopal throne also
+remains in its place.
+
+The "Acts of the martyrs Alexander, Eventius, and Theodulus," narrate
+that Severina buried the bodies of the first two martyrs in one tomb,
+and the third separately--"Theodulum vero alibi sepelivit." This is
+borne out by the discovery of a chapel opening from the nave, where the
+single word "martyri," is supposed to point out the grave of Theodulus.
+A baptistery has been found with its font, and another chapel adjoining
+is pointed out as the place where neophytes assembled to receive
+confirmation from the bishop. Among epitaphs laid bare in the pavement
+is one to a youth named Apollo "votus Deo" (dedicated to the
+priesthood?) at the age of 14. Entered from the church is the catacomb
+called "ad nymphas," containing many ancient inscriptions and a few rude
+paintings.
+
+Mass is solemnly performed here by the Cardinal Prefect of the
+Propaganda on the festival of St. Alexander, May 3, when the roofless
+basilica--backed by the blue Sabine mountains and surrounded by the
+utterly desolate Campagna--is filled with worshippers, and presents a
+striking scene. Beyond this a road to the left leads through beautiful
+woods to _Mentana_, occupying the site of the ancient Nomentum, and
+recently celebrated for the battle between the papal troops and the
+Garibaldians on Nov. 3, 1867. The conflict took place chiefly on the
+hillside which is passed on the right before reaching the town. Two
+miles further is _Monte Rotondo_, with a fine old castle of the
+Barberini family (once of the Orsini), from which there is a beautiful
+view. This place was also the scene of fighting in 1867. It is possible
+to vary the route in returning to Rome from hence by the lower road
+which leads by the (now broken) Ponte Salara.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+If we re-enter Rome by the Porta Pia, immediately within the gates we
+find another Villa belonging to the Torlonia family. The straight road
+from the gate leads by the Termini to the Quattro Fontane and the Monte
+Cavallo. On the left, if we follow the _Via de Macao_, which takes its
+strange name from a gift of land which the princes of Savoy made to the
+Jesuits for a mission in China, we reach a small piazza with two pines,
+where a gate on the left leads to the remains of the _Pretorian Camp_,
+established by Sejanus, the minister of Tiberius. It was dismantled by
+Constantine, but from three sides having been enclosed by Aurelian in
+the line of his city-wall, its form is still preserved to us. The
+Pretorian Camp was an oblong of 1200 by 1500 feet; its area was occupied
+by a vineyard of the Jesuits till 1861, when a "Campo Militare" was
+again established here, for the pontifical troops.
+
+     "En suivant l'enceinte de Rome, quand on arrive à l'endroit où elle
+     se continue par le mur du Camp des prétoriens, on est frappé de la
+     supériorité de construction que présente celui-ci. La partie des
+     murs d'Honorius qui est voisine a été refaite au huitième siècle.
+     Le commencement et la fin de l'empire se touchent. On peut
+     apprécier d'un coup d'oeil l'état de la civilisation aux deux
+     époques: voilà ce qu'on faisait dans le premier siècle, et voilà ce
+     qu'on faisait au huitième, après la conquête de l'empire Romain par
+     les Barbares. Il faut songer toutefois que cette époque où l'on
+     construisait si bien a amené celle où l'on ne savait plus
+     construire."--_Ampère, Emp._ i. 421.
+
+Hence a road, three-quarters of a mile long, leads--passing under an
+arch of Sixtus V.--to the Porta S. Lorenzo (Ch. XIII.).
+
+The road opposite the gateway leading to the Camp is bordered on the
+left by the buildings belonging to the _Railway Station_, beyond which
+is the entrance to the grounds of the _Villa Massimo Negroni_, which
+possessed a delightful terrace, fringed with orange-trees--a most
+agreeable sunny walk in winter--and many pleasant shady nooks and
+corners for summer, but which has been mutilated and stripped of all its
+beauties since the Sardinian rule. In a part of this villa beyond the
+railway but still visible from hence, is a colossal statue of Minerva
+(generally called "Rome"), which is a relic of the residence here of
+Cardinal Felix Perretti, who as a boy had watched the pigs of his father
+at Montalto, and who lived to mount the papal throne as Sixtus V. The
+pedestal of the statue bears his arms,--a lion holding three pears in
+its paw. Here, with her husband's uncle, lived the famous Vittoria
+Accoramboni, the wife of the handsome Francesco Perretti, who had been
+vainly sought in marriage by the powerful and ugly old Prince Paolo
+Orsini. It was from hence that her young husband was summoned to a
+secret interview with her brothers on the slopes of the Quirinal, where
+he was cruelly murdered by the hired bravos of her first lover. Hence
+also Vittoria went forth--on the very day of the installation of Sixtus
+V.--to her strange second marriage with the murderer of her husband, who
+died six months after, leaving her with one of the largest fortunes in
+Italy--an amount of wealth which led to her own barbarous murder through
+the jealousy of the Orsini a month afterwards.
+
+Here, after the election of her brother to the papacy, lived Camilla,
+the sister of Sixtus V., whom he refused to recognise when she came to
+him in splendid attire as a princess, but tenderly embraced when she
+reappeared in her peasant's wimple and hood. From hence her two
+granddaughters were married,--one to Virginius Orsini, the other to
+Marc-Antonio Colonna, an alliance which healed the feud of centuries
+between the two families.
+
+In later times the Villa Negroni was the residence of the poet Alfieri.
+
+The principal terrace ends near a reservoir which belonged to the baths
+of Diocletian.
+
+     "As one looks from the Villa Negroni windows, one cannot fail to be
+     impressed by the strange changes through which this wonderful city
+     has passed. The very spot on which Nero, the insane emperor-artist,
+     fiddled while Rome was burning, has now become a vast
+     kitchen-garden, belonging to Prince Massimo (himself a descendant,
+     as he claims, of Fabius Cunctator), where men no longer, but only
+     lettuces, asparagus, and artichokes, are ruthlessly cut down. The
+     inundations are not for mock sea-fights among slaves, but for the
+     peaceful purposes of irrigation. In the bottom of the valley, a
+     noble old villa, covered with frescoes, has been turned into a
+     manufactory for bricks, and part of the Villa Negroni itself is now
+     occupied by the railway station. Yet here the princely family of
+     Negroni lived, and the very lady at whose house Lucrezia Borgia
+     took her famous revenge may once have sauntered under the walls,
+     which still glow with ripening oranges, to feed the gold fish in
+     the fountain,--or walked with stately friends through the long
+     alleys of clipped cypresses, or pic-nicked _alla Giornata_ on lawns
+     which are now but kitchen-gardens, dedicated to San
+     Cavolo."--_Story's Roba di Roma._
+
+The lower part of the Villa Negroni, and the slopes towards the
+Esquiline, were once celebrated as the _Campus Esquilinus_, a large
+pauper burial-ground, where bodies were thrown into pits called
+_puticoli_,[246] as is still the custom at Naples. There were also tombs
+here of a somewhat pretentious character: "those probably of rich
+well-to-do burgesses, yet not great enough to command the posthumous
+honour of a roadside mausoleum."[247] Horace dwells on the horrors of
+this burial-ground, where he places the scene of Canidia's
+incantations:--
+
+    "Nec in sepulcris pauperum prudens anus
+    Novemdiales dissipare pulveres."
+        _Epod._ xvii. 47.
+
+                    'Has nullo perdere possum
+    Nec prohibere modo, simul ac vaga luna decorum
+    Protulit os, quin ossa legant, herbasque nocentes.
+    Vidi egomet nigrâ succinctam vadere pallâ
+    Canidiam, pedibus nudis passoque capillo,
+    Cum Saganâ majore ululantem; pallor utrasque
+    Fecerat horrendas aspectu,
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+                            Serpentes atque videres
+    Infernas errare canes; lunamque rubentem,
+    Ne foret his testis, post magna latere sepulcra."
+           _Hor. Sat._ i. 8'
+
+The place was considered very unhealthy until its purification by
+Mæcenas.
+
+    "Huc prius angustis ejecta cadavera cellis
+    Conservus vili portanda locabat in arcâ.
+    Hoc miseræ plebi stabat commune sepulcrum,
+    Pantolabo scurræ, Nomentanoque nepoti.
+    Mille pedes in fronte, trecentos cippus in agrum
+    Hîc dabat; heredes monumentum ne sequeretur.
+    Nunc licet Esquiliis habitare salubribus, atque
+    Aggere in aprico spatiari; quo modo tristes
+    Albis informem spectabant ossibus agrum."
+
+    _Hor. Sat._ i. 8.
+
+    "Post insepulta membra different lupi,
+    Et Esquilinæ alites."
+
+    _Hor. Ep._ v. 100.
+
+     "The Campus Esquilinus, between the roads which issued from the
+     Esquiline and Viminal gates, was the spot assigned for casting out
+     the carcases of slaves, whose foul and half-burnt remains were
+     hardly hidden from the vultures. The _accursed field_ was enclosed,
+     it would appear, neither by wall nor fence, to exclude the
+     wandering steps of man or beast; and from the public walk on the
+     summit of the ridge, it must have been viewed in all its horrors.
+     Here prowled in troops the houseless dogs of the city and the
+     suburbs; here skulked the solitary wolf from the Alban hills, and
+     here perhaps, to the doleful murmurs of the Marsic chaunt, the
+     sorceress compounded her philtres of the ashes of dead men's bones.
+     Mæcenas (B.C. 7) deserved the gratitude of the citizens, when he
+     obtained a grant of this piece of land, and transformed it into a
+     park or garden.... The Campus Esquilinus is now part of the gardens
+     of the Villa Negroni."--_Merivale, Romans under the Empire._
+
+Within what were the grounds of the Villa Negroni until they were
+encroached upon by the railway, but now only to be visited with a
+"lascia passare" from the station master, are some of the best remains
+of the _Agger of Servius Tullius_. In 1869--70, some curious painted
+chambers were discovered here, but were soon destroyed,--and the foolish
+jealousy of the authorities prevented any drawings or photographs being
+taken. The Agger can be traced from the Porta Esquilina (near the Arch
+of Gallienus), to the Porta Collina (near the Gardens of Sallust). In
+the time of the empire it had become a kind of promenade, as we learn
+from Horace.[248]
+
+Opposite the station are the vast, but for the most part uninteresting,
+remains of the _Baths of Diocletian_, covering a space of 440,000 square
+yards. They were begun by Diocletian and Maximian, about A.D. 302, and
+finished by Constantius and Maximinus. It is stated by Cardinal
+Baronius, that 40,000 Christians were employed in the work; some bricks
+marked with crosses have been found in the ruins. At the angles of the
+principal front were two circular halls, both of which remain; one is
+near the modern Villa Strozzi, at the back of the Negroni garden, and is
+now used as a granary, the other is transformed into the Church of S.
+Bernardo.
+
+The Baths are supposed to have first fallen into decay after the Gothic
+invasion of A.D. 410. In the sixteenth century the site was sold to
+Cardinal Bella, ambassador of Francis I. at Rome, who built a fine
+palace among the ruins; after his death, in 1560, the property was
+re-sold to S. Carlo Borromeo. He sold it again to his uncle, Pope Pius
+IV., who founded the monastery of Carthusian monks. These, in 1593, sold
+part of the ruins to Caterina Sforza, who founded the Cistercian convent
+of S. Bernardo.
+
+About 1520, a Sicilian priest called Antonio del Duca came to Rome,
+bringing with him from Palermo pictures of the seven archangels
+(Michael, Gabriel, Raphael, Uriel, Santhiel, Gendiel, and Borachiel),
+copied from some which existed in the Church of S. Angiolo. Carried away
+by the desire of instituting archangel-worship at Rome, he obtained
+leave to affix these pictures to seven of the columns still standing
+erect in the Baths of Diocletian, which, ten years after, Julius II.
+allowed to be consecrated under the title of Sta. Maria degli Angeli;
+though Pius IV., declaring that angel-worship had never been sanctioned
+by the Church, except under the three names mentioned in Scripture,
+ordered the pictures of Del Duca to be taken away.[249] At the same time
+he engaged Michael Angelo to convert the great oblong hall of the Baths
+(Calidarium) into a church. The church then arranged was not such as we
+now see, the present entrance having been then the atrium of the side
+chapel, and the main entrance at first by what is now the right
+transept, while the high altar stood in what is now the left transept.
+In 1749, the desire of erecting a chapel to the Beato Nicolo Albergati,
+led to the church being altered, under Vanvitelli, as we now see it.
+
+The _Church of Sta. Maria degli Angeli_, still most magnificent, is now
+entered by a rotunda (Laconicum) which contains four monuments of some
+interest; on the right of the entrance is that of the artist Carlo
+Maratta, who died 1713; on the left that of Salvator Rosa, who died
+1673, with an epitaph by his son, describing him as "Pictorum sui
+temporis nulli secundum, poetarum omnium temporum principibus parem!"
+Beyond, on the right, is the monument of Cardinal Alciati, professor of
+law at Milan, who procured his hat through the interest of S. Carlo
+Borromeo, with the epitaph "Virtute vixit, memoria vivit, gloria
+vivet,"--on the left, that of Cardinal Parisio di Corenza, inscribed,
+"Corpus humo tegitur, fama per ora volat, spiritus astra tenet." In the
+chapel on the right are the angels of Peace and Justice, by _Pettrich_;
+in that on the left Christ appearing to the Magdalen, by _Arrigo
+Fiamingo_. Against the pier on the right is the grand statue of S.
+Bruno, by _Houdon_, of which Clement XIV. (Ganganelli) used to say, "He
+would speak, if the rule of his Order did not forbid it."
+
+The body of the church is now a perfect gallery of very large pictures,
+most of which were brought from St. Peter's, where their places have
+been supplied by mosaic copies. In what is now the right transept, on
+the right, is the Crucifixion of St. Peter, _Ricciolini_; the Fall of
+Simon Magus, a copy of _Francesco Vanni_ (the original in St. Peter's);
+on the left, St. Jerome, with St. Bruno and St. Francis, _Muziano_
+(1528--92) (the landscape by _Brill_); and the Miracles of St. Peter,
+_Baglioni_. This transept ends in the chapel of the Beato Nicolo
+Albergati, a Carthusian Cardinal, who was sent as legate by Martin V.,
+in 1422, to make a reconciliation between Charles VI. of France and
+Henry V. of England. The principal miracle ascribed to him, the
+conversion of bread into coal in order to convince the Emperor of
+Germany of his divine authority, is represented in the indifferent
+altar-piece. In the left transept, which ends in the chapel of S. Bruno,
+are: on the left, St. Basil by the solemnity of the Mass rebuking the
+Emperor Valens, _Subleyras_; and the Fall of Simon Magus, _Pompeo
+Battoni_;--on the right, the Immaculate Conception, _P. Bianchi_; and
+Tabitha raised from the Dead, _P. Costanzi_.
+
+In the tribune are, on the right, the Presentation of the Virgin in the
+Temple, _Romanelli_; and the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, a grand fresco
+of _Domenichino_, painted originally on the walls of St. Peter's, and
+removed here with great skill by the engineer Zabaglia;--on the left,
+the Death of Ananias and Sapphira, _Pomarancio_; and the Baptism of
+Christ, _Maratta_.
+
+On the right of the choir is the tomb of Cardinal Antonio Serbelloni; on
+the left that of Pius IV., Giovanni Angelo Medici (1559-1565), under
+whose reign the Council of Trent was closed,--uncle of S. Carlo
+Borromeo, a lively and mundane pope, but the cruel persecutor of the
+Caraffa nephews of his predecessor, Paul IV., whom he executed in the
+Castle of S. Angelo.
+
+Of the sixteen columns in this church (45 feet in height, 16 feet in
+diameter), only the eight in the transept are of ancient Egyptian
+granite; the rest are in brick, stuccoed in imitation, and were
+additions of Vanvitelli. On the pavement is a meridian line, laid down
+in 1703.
+
+     "Quand Dioclétien faisait travailler les pauvres chrétiens à ses
+     étuves, ce n'était pas son dessein de bâtir des églises à leurs
+     successeurs; il ne pensait pas être fondateur, comme il l'a été,
+     d'un monastère de Pères Chartreux et d'un monastère de Pères
+     Feuillants.... C'est aux dépens de Dioclétien, de ses pierres et de
+     son ciment qu'on fait des autels et des chapelles à Jesus-Christ,
+     des dortoirs et des réfectoires à ses serviteurs. La providence de
+     Dieu se joue de cette sorte des pensées des hommes, et les
+     événements sont bien éloignés des intentions quand la terre a un
+     dessein et le ciel un autre."--_Balzac._
+
+The Carthusian convent behind the church (ladies are not admitted)
+contains several picturesque fountains. That in the great cloister,
+built from designs of Michael Angelò, is surrounded by a group of huge
+and grand cypresses, said to have been planted by his hand.
+
+     "Il semble que la vie ne sert ici qu'à contempler la mort--les
+     hommes qui existent ainsi sont pourtant les mêmes à qui la guerre
+     et toute son activité suffirait à peine s'ils y étaient accoutumés.
+     C'est un sujet inépuisable de réflexion que les différentes
+     combinaisons de la destinée humaine sur la terre. Il se passe dans
+     l'intérieur de l'âme mille accidents, il se forme mille habitudes,
+     qui font de chaque individu un monde et son histoire."--_Madame de
+     Staël._
+
+On a line with the monastery is a Prison for Women--then an Institution
+for Deaf, Dumb, and Blind--then the ugly _Fountain of the Termini_
+(designed by Fontana), sometimes called Fontanone dell' Acqua Felice,
+(Felice, from Fra Felice, the name by which Sixtus V. was known before
+his papacy,) to which the Acqua Felice was brought from Colonna 22 miles
+distant in the Alban hills, in 1583, by Sixtus V. It is surmounted by a
+hideous statue of Moses by _Prospero Bresciano_, who is said to have
+died of vexation at the ridicule it excited when uncovered. The side
+statues, of Aaron and Gideon, are by _Giov. Batt. della Porta_ and
+_Flaminio Vacca_.
+
+Opposite this, in the Via della Porta Pia, is the _Church of Sta. Maria
+della Vittoria_, built in 1605, by Carlo Maderno, for Paul V. Its façade
+was added from designs of Giov. Batt. Soria, by Cardinal Borghese, in
+payment to the monks of the adjoining Carmelite convent, for the statue
+of the Hermaphrodite, which had been found in their vineyard.
+
+The name of the church commemorates an image of the Virgin, burnt in
+1833, which was revered as having been instrumental in gaining the
+victory for the Catholic imperial troops over the Protestant Frederick
+and Elizabeth of Bohemia, at the battle of the White Mountain, near
+Prague. The third chapel on the left contains the Trinity, by
+_Guercino_; a Crucifixion, by _Guido_; and a portrait of Cardinal
+Cornaro, _Guido_. The altar-piece of the second chapel on the right,
+representing St. Francis receiving the Infant Christ from the Virgin, is
+by _Domenichino_, as are two frescoes on the side walls. In the left
+transept, above an altar adorned with a gilt bronze-relief of the Last
+Supper, by Cav. d'Arpino, is a group representing Sta. Teresa transfixed
+by the dart of the Angel of Death, by _Bernini_. The following
+criticisms upon it are fair specimens of the contrast between English
+and French taste.
+
+     "All the Spanish pictures of Sta. Theresa sin in their materialism;
+     but the grossest example--the most offensive--is the marble group
+     of Bernini, in the Santa Maria della Vittoria at Rome. The head of
+     Sta. Theresa is that of a languishing nymph, the angel is a sort of
+     Eros; the whole has been significantly described as 'a parody of
+     Divine love.' The vehicle, white marble,--its place in a Christian
+     church,--enhance all its vileness. The least destructive, the
+     least prudish in matters of art, would here willingly throw the
+     first stone."--_Mrs. Jameson's Monastic Orders_, p. 421.
+
+     "La sainte Thérèse de Bernin est adorable! couchée, évanouie
+     d'amour les mains, les pieds nus pendants, les yeux demiclos, elle
+     s'est laissée tomber de bonheur et d'extase. Son visage est maigri,
+     mais combien noble! C'est la vraie grande dame qui a séché dans les
+     feux, dans les larmes, en attendant celui qu'elle aime. Jusqu'aux
+     draperies tortillées, jusqu'à l'allanguissement des mains
+     défaillantes, jusqu'au soupir qui meurt sur ses levres
+     entr'ouvertes, il n'y a rien en elle ni autour d'elle qui n'exprime
+     l'angoisse volupteuse et le divin élancement de son transport. On
+     ne peut pas rendre avec des mots une attitude si enivrée et si
+     touchante. Renversée sur le dos, elle pâme, tout son être se
+     dissout; le moment poignant arrive, elle gémit; c'est son dernier
+     gémissement, la sensation est trop forte. L'ange cependant, un
+     jeune page de quatorze ans, en légère tunique, la poitrine
+     découverte jusqu'au dessous du sein, arrive gracieux, aimable;
+     c'est le plus joli page de grand seigneur qui vient faire le
+     bonheur d'une vassal trop tendre. Un sourire demi-complaisant,
+     demi-malin, creuse des fossettes dans ses fraîches joues luisantes;
+     sa flêche d'or à la main indique le tressaillement délicieux et
+     terrible dont il va secouer tous les nerfs de ce corps charmant,
+     ardent, qui s'étale devant sa main. On n'a jamais fait ce roman si
+     séduisant et si tendre."--_Taine, Voyage en Italie._
+
+Close by is the handsome _Church of Sta. Susanna_, rebuilt by _Carlo
+Maderno_, for Sixtus V., on the site of an oratory founded by Pope Caius
+(A.D. 283), in the house of his brother Gabinus, who was martyred with
+his daughter Susanna because she refused to break her vow of virginity
+by a marriage with Maximianus Galerus, adopted son of the Emperor
+Diocletian, to whom this family were related. The bodies of these
+martyrs are said to rest beneath the high altar. The side chapel of St.
+Laurence was presented by Camilla Peretti, the sister of Sixtus V.,
+together with a dowry of fifty scudi, to be paid every year to the nine
+best girls in the parish, on the festival of Sta. Susanna. The frescoes
+of the story of Susanna and the Elders, painted here on the side walls,
+from the analogy of names, are by _Baldassare Croce_; those in the
+tribune are by _Cesare Nebbia_.
+
+Opposite this, is the Cistercian convent and _Church of S. Bernardo_, a
+rotunda of the Baths of Diocletian, turned into a church in 1598, by
+Caterina Sforza, Contessa di Santa Fiora.
+
+Hence the Via della Porta Pia leads to the Quattro Fontane. On the left
+is the small _Church of S. Caio_, which encloses the tomb of that pope,
+inscribed "Sancti Caii, Papæ, martyris ossa." Further, on the left, is
+the great recently suppressed convent of the Carmelites, and the _Church
+of Sta. Teresa_. The right of the street is bordered by the
+orange-shaded wall of the Barberini garden.
+
+Between S. Caio and Sta. Teresa, is the _Studio of Overbeck_, the
+venerable German devotional painter, who died 1869. His daughter allows
+visitors to be admitted on Sunday afternoons.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+THE ESQUILINE.
+
+     Golden House of Nero--Baths of Titus and Trajan--S. Pietro in
+     Vincoli--Frangipani Tower--House of Lucrezia Borgia--S. Martino al
+     Monte--Sta. Lucia in Selce--Sta. Prassede--Santissimo
+     Redentore--Arch of Gallienus--Trophies of Marius--Sta.
+     Bibiana--Temple of Minerva Medica--S. Eusebio--S. Antonio
+     Abbate--Sta. Maria Maggiore.
+
+
+The Esquiline, which is the largest of the so-called 'hills of Rome,' is
+not a distinct hill, but simply a projection of the Campagna. "The
+Quirinal, Viminal, Esquiline, and Coelian stretch out towards the
+Tiber, like four fingers of a hand, of which the plain whence they
+detach themselves represents the vast palm. This hand has seized the
+world."[250]
+
+Varro says that the name Esquiline was derived from the word _excultus_,
+because of the ornamental groves which were planted on this hill by
+Servius Tullius,--such as the Lucus Querquetulanus, Fagutalis, and
+Esquilinus.[251] The sacred wood of the Argiletum long remained on the
+lower slope of the hill, where the Via Sta. Maria dei Monti now is.
+
+The Esquiline, which is still unhealthy, must have been so in ancient
+times, for among its temples were those dedicated to Fever, near Sta.
+Maria Maggiore--to Juno Mephitis,[252] near a pool which emitted
+poisonous exhalations--and to Venus Libitina,[253] for the registration
+of deaths, and arrangement of funerals. As the hill was in the hands of
+the Sabines, its early divinities were Sabine. Besides those already
+mentioned, it had an altar of the Sabine sun-god Janus, dedicated
+together with an altar to Juno by the survivor of the Horatii,[254] and
+a temple of Juno Lucina, the goddess of birth and light.
+
+    "Monte sub Esquilio multis incæduus annis
+    Junonis magnæ nomine lucus erat."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ ii. 435.
+
+This hill has two heights. That which is crowned by Santa Maria Maggiore
+was formerly called _Cispius_, where Servius Tullius had a palace; that
+which is occupied by S. Pietro in Vincoli was formerly called _Oppius_,
+where Tarquinius Superbus lived. It was in returning to his palace on
+the former (and not on the latter height, as generally maintained) that
+Servius Tullius was murdered.
+
+The most important buildings of the Esquiline, in the later republican
+and in imperial times, were on the slope of the hill behind the Forum,
+and near the Coliseum, in the fashionable quarter called Carinæ,--the
+"rich Carinæ,"
+
+          "Passimque armenta videbant
+    Romanoque Foro et lautis mugire Carinis."
+
+    _Virgil, Æn._ viii. 361.
+
+of which the principal street probably occupied the site of the present
+Via del Colosseo. At the entrance of this suburb, where the fine
+mediæval Torre dei Conti now stands, was the house of Spurius Cassius
+(Consul B.C. 493), which was confiscated and demolished, and the ground
+ordained to be always kept vacant, because he was suspected of aiming at
+regal power. Here, however, or very nearly on this site, the _Ædes
+Telluris_, or temple of Tellus, was erected _c._ B.C. 269,[255]--a
+building of sufficient importance for the senate, summoned by Antony, to
+assemble in it. The quarter immediately surrounding this temple acquired
+the name of _In Tellure_, which is still retained by several of its
+modern churches.[256] Near this temple--"in tellure," lived Pompey, in a
+famous though small historical house, which he adorned on the outside
+with rostra in memory of his naval victories, and which was painted
+within to look like a forest with trees and birds, much probably as the
+chambers are painted which were discovered a few years ago in the villa
+of Livia.[257] Here Julia, the daughter of Julius Cæsar, and wife of
+Pompey, died. After the death of Pompey this house was bought by the
+luxurious Antony. The difference between its two masters is pourtrayed
+by Cicero, who describes the severe comfort of the house of Pompey
+contrasted with the voluptuous luxury of its second master, and winds up
+his oration by exclaiming, "I pity even the roofs and the walls under
+the change." At a later period the same house was the favourite
+residence of Antoninus Pius. Hard by, in the Carinæ, the favourite
+residence of Roman knights, lived the father of Cicero, and hence the
+young Tullius went to listen in the forum to the orators whom he was one
+day to surpass.[258] Also in the Carinæ, but nearer the site of the
+Coliseum, was the magnificent house of the wealthy Vedius Pollio, which
+he bequeathed to Augustus, who pulled it down, and built the portico of
+Livia on its site:
+
+    "Disce tamen, veniens ætas, ubi Livia nunc est
+      Porticus, immensæ tecta fuisse domûs.
+    Urbis opus domus una fuit; spatiumque tenebat,
+      Quo brevius muris oppida multa tenent.
+    Hæc æquata solo est, nullo sub crimine regni,
+      Sed quia luxuriâ visa nocere suâ.
+    Sustinuit tantas operum subvertere moles,
+      Totque suas heres perdere Cæsar opes."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ vi. 639.
+
+At its opposite extremity the Carinæ was united to the unfashionable and
+plebeian quarter of the _Suburra_, occupying the valley formed by the
+convergence of the Esquiline, Quirinal, and Viminal--which is still
+crowded with a teeming population. In one of the small streets leading
+from the Vicus Cyprius (between the Esquiline and Viminal) towards the
+Carinæ, was the _Tigellum Sororis_, which was extant--repaired at the
+public expense--till the fifth century. This, "the Sister's Beam,"
+commemorated the well-known story of the last of the Horatii, who,
+returning from the slaughter of the Curiatii, and being met by his
+sister, bewailing one of the dead to whom she was betrothed, stabbed her
+in his anger. He was condemned to death, but at the prayer of his father
+his crime was expiated by his passing under the yoke of "the Sister's
+Beam." On one side of the Tigellum Sororis was an altar to Juno Sororis;
+on the other an altar to Janus Curiatius.[259]
+
+During the empire several poets had their residence on the Esquiline.
+Virgil lived there, near the gardens of Mæcenas, which covered the
+slopes between the Esquiline and Viminal. Propertius had a house there,
+as we learn from himself--
+
+    "I, puer, et citus hæc aliqua propone columna
+    Et dominum Esquiliis scribe habitare tuum."
+
+    _Propert. Eleg._ iv. 23.
+
+It is believed, but without certainty, that Horace also lived upon the
+Esquiline. He was constantly there in the villa of Mæcenas, where he was
+buried, and which he has described in his poems both in its original
+state as a desecrated cemetery, and again after his friend had converted
+it into a beautiful garden.
+
+    "Nunc licet Esquiliis habitare salubribus, atque
+    Aggere in aprico spatiari, quo modo tristes
+    Albis informem spectabant ossibus agrum."
+
+    _Sat._ i.
+
+The house of Mæcenas, the great patron of the poets of the Augustan age,
+probably occupied a site above the Carinæ, where the baths of Titus
+afterwards were. It was a lofty and magnificent edifice, and is
+described by Horace, who calls it--
+
+    "Fastidiosam desere copiam, et
+    Molem propinquam nubibus arduis:
+      Omitte mirari beatæ
+        Fumum et opes strepitumque Romæ."
+
+    _Od._ iii. 29.
+
+Mæcenas bequeathed his villa to Augustus, and Tiberius at one time
+resided in it.
+
+Another, though less well-known poet of this age, who lived upon the
+Esquiline, was Pedo Albinovanus, much extolled by Ovid, who lived at the
+summit of the Vicus Cyprius (probably the Via Sta. Maria Maggiore), in a
+little house:
+
+    "Illic parva tui domus Pedonis
+        Cælata est aquilæ minore penna."
+
+    _Martial_, x. _Ep._ 19.
+
+Near this was the _Lacus Orphei_, a fountain, in the centre of which was
+a rock, &c., surmounted by a statue of Orpheus with the enchanted beasts
+around him. The house of Pedo was afterwards inhabited by Pliny. On
+_Septimius_, as the furthest slope of the Esquiline towards the Viminal
+was called, lived Maximus--of whom Martial says:--
+
+    "Esquiliis domus est, domus est tibi colle Dianæ,
+      Et tua Patricius culmina Vicus habet:
+    Hinc viduæ Cybeles, illinc sacraria Vestæ,
+      Inde Novum, Veterem prospicis inde Jovem."
+
+    _Mart._ vii. _Ep._ 72.
+
+Only the northern side of the Esquiline is now inhabited at all; the
+southern, and by far the larger portion, is clothed with vineyards and
+gardens, sprinkled over with titanic masses of ruin. On most parts of
+the hill, one might imagine oneself far away in the country. According
+to Niebuhr, the dweller amid the vines of the Esquiline, when he
+descends into the city, still says, "I am going to Rome."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Nero (A.D. 54--68) purchased the site of the villa of Mæcenas, and
+covered the whole side of the hill towards the Carinæ with the vast
+buildings of his Golden House, which also swallowed up the Coelian and
+a great part of the Palatine; but he did not destroy the buildings which
+already existed, and "the Golden House was still the old mansion of
+Augustus and the villa of Mæcenas connected by a long series of columns
+and arches."[260] Titus (A.D. 79--81) and Trajan (A.D. 98--117) used
+part of the same site for their baths, and the ruins of all these
+buildings are now jumbled up together, and the varying whims of
+antiquaries have constantly changed the names of each fragment that has
+been discovered.
+
+The more interesting of these ruins are on the southern slope of the
+Esquiline towards the Coliseum, and are most easily approached from the
+Via Polveriera. They are shown now as the _Baths of Titus_, or Camere
+Esquiline, and occupy a space of about 1150 feet by 850. That the
+chambers which are now visible were to be seen in the time of Leo X.
+(1513--22) we learn from Vasari, who says that Raphael and Giovanni da
+Udine were wont to study there and copy the arabesques to assist their
+work in the Vatican Loggie. After this, neglect and the falling in of
+the soil caused these treasures to be lost till 1774, when they were
+again partially unearthed, but they were only completely brought to view
+by the French, who began to take the work in hand in 1811, and continued
+their excavations for three years.
+
+The principal remains, which are now exhibited by the dim torch of a
+solitary cicerone, are those of nine chambers, extending for 300 feet,
+and having on the north a kind of corridor, or cryptoporticus, whose
+vault is covered with paintings of birds, griffins, and flowers, &c. In
+two of these halls are alcoves for couches, and in one is a cavity for a
+fountain with a trench round it, like that in the nymphæum of the Palace
+of the Cæsars. In one of the halls is a group representing Venus
+attended by two Cupids, with doves hovering over her. Near this a
+pedestal is shown as that occupied by the Laocoon, though it was really
+found in the Vigna de Fredis, between the Sette Sale and Sta. Maria
+Maggiore. A set of thirty engravings, published by Mirri, from drawings
+taken in 1776, show what the paintings were at that time, but very few
+now remain perfect. A group of Coriolanus and his mother, represented in
+Mirri's work, is now inaccessible. All the paintings are Pompeian in
+character, and for some time were considered the best remains of ancient
+pictorial art in Rome, but they are inferior to those which have since
+been discovered on the Latin way and at the Baths of Livia. The chambers
+which open beyond the nine outer halls are considered to be part of the
+Golden House. In one of these the Meleager of the Vatican was found. A
+small chapel, dedicated to Sta. Felicitas and her seven sons (evidently
+engrafted upon the pagan building in the sixth century), was discovered
+in 1813. It is like the chapels in the catacombs, and is decorated with
+the conventional frescoes of the Good Shepherd, Daniel in the lions'
+den, &c. There are also some faint remains of a fresco of the sainted
+patrons.
+
+Behind the convent of S. Pietro in Vincoli, in the open vineyards, are
+other ruins called the _Sette Sale_, being remains of the reservoirs (in
+reality nine in number) for the Baths. In these vineyards also are three
+large circular ruins, adorned on the interior with rows of niches for
+statues. One of them is partly built into the Polveriera, or powder
+magazine. These have been referred alternately to the Baths of Titus
+and those of Trajan.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Immediately behind the forum of Nerva stands the colossal brick tower,
+known as the Torre dei Conti, and built by Innocent III. (1198--1216) as
+a retreat for his family, now extinct. Its architect was Marchione
+d'Arezzo, and it was so much admired by Petrarch that he declared it had
+"no equal upon earth;" he must have meant in height. Four of the Conti
+have mounted the papal throne, Innocent III., Gregory IX., Alexander
+IV., and Innocent XIII. The last-named pope (1721--24) boasted of having
+"nine uncles, eight brothers, four nephews, and seven great nephews;"
+yet--a century after--and not a Conti remained.
+
+If we turn to the left close to this, we shall find, in a commanding
+position, the famous Church of _S. Pietro in Vincoli_, said to have been
+originally founded in A.D. 109 by Theodora, sister of Hermes, Prefect of
+Rome, both converts of the then pope, who was the martyr St. Alexander
+of the basilica in the Campagna. A bolder legend attributes the
+foundation to St. Peter himself, who is believed to have dedicated this
+church to his Divine Master. History, however, can assign no earlier
+foundation than that in 442, by the Empress Eudoxia, wife of Valentinian
+III., from whom the church takes its name of the _Eudoxican Basilica_,
+and who placed there one of the famous chains which now form its great
+attraction to Roman Catholic pilgrims.
+
+     "The chains, left in the Mamertine Prisons after St. Peter's
+     confinement there, are said to have been found by the martyr Sta.
+     Balbina, in 126, and by her given to Theodora, another sainted
+     martyr, sister to Hermes, Prefect of Rome, from whom they passed
+     into the hands of St. Alexander, first pope of that name, and were
+     finally deposited by him in the church erected by Theodora, where
+     they have since remained. Such is the legendary, but the historic
+     origin of this basilica cannot be traced higher than about the
+     middle of the fifth century, subsequent to the year 439, when
+     Juvenal, Bishop of Jerusalem, presented to the Empress Eudoxia,
+     wife of Theodosius the younger, two chains, believed to be those of
+     St. Peter, one of which was placed by her in the basilica of the
+     apostles at Constantinople, and the other sent to Rome for her
+     daughter Eudoxia, wife of Valentinian III., who caused this church,
+     hence called Eudoxian, to be erected, as the special shrine of
+     Peter's chains."--_Hemans._
+
+One chain had been sent to Rome by Eudoxia the elder, and the other
+remained at Constantinople, but the Romans could not rest satisfied with
+the possession of half the relic; and within the walls of this very
+basilica, Leo I. beheld in a vision the miraculous and mystical uniting
+of the two chains, since which they have both been exhibited here, and
+the day of their being soldered together by invisible power, August 1,
+has been kept sacred in the Latin Church!
+
+The church is at present entered by an ugly atrium, which was the work
+of Fontana in 1705; but Bacio Pintelli had already done almost all that
+was possible to destroy the features of the old basilica, under the
+Cardinal Titular of the church, Giulio della Rovere, the same who, as
+Pope Julius II., destroyed the old St Peter's and eighty-seven tombs of
+his predecessors. By Pintelli the present capitals were added to the
+columns in the nave, and the horizontal architrave above them was
+exchanged for a series of narrow round-headed arches.
+
+But, in spite of alterations, the interior is still imposing. Two long
+lines of ancient fluted Doric columns (ten on each side), relics of the
+Baths of Titus or Trajan, which once covered this site, lead the eye to
+the high altar, supposed to cover the remains of the seven Maccabean
+brothers, and to the tribune, which contains an ancient episcopal
+throne, and is adorned with frescoes by _Jacopo Coppi_, a Florentine of
+the sixteenth century, illustrative of the life of St. Peter. Beneath
+these is the tomb of G. Clovis, a miniature painter of the sixteenth
+century, and canon of this church.
+
+On the left of the entrance is the tomb of Antonio Pollajuolo, the
+famous worker in bronze, and his brother Pietro. The fresco above, which
+is ascribed to Pollajuolo, refers to the translation of the body of St.
+Sebastian, as "Depulsor Pestilitatis," from the catacombs to this
+church,--one of the most picturesque stories of the middle ages. The
+great plague of A.D. 680 was ushered in by an awful vision of the two
+angels of good and evil, who wandered through the streets by night, side
+by side, when the one smote upon the door where death was to enter,
+unless arrested by the other. The people continued to die by hundreds
+daily. At length a citizen dreamt that the sickness would cease when the
+body of St. Sebastian should be brought into the city, and when this was
+done, the pestilence was stayed. In the fresco the whole story is told.
+In the background the citizen tells his dream to Pope Agatho, who is
+seated among his cardinals. On the right the angels of good and evil
+(the bad angel represented as a devil) are making their mysterious
+visitation, on the left a procession is bringing in the relics, and the
+foreground is strewn with the corpses of the dead. The general
+invocation of St. Sebastian in Italy, and the frequent introduction of
+his figure in art, have their origin in this story.
+
+At the entrance of the left aisle is a fine bas-relief of St. Peter
+throned, delivering his keys to an angel, who acknowledges his supremacy
+by receiving them on his knees. This work was executed in 1465, and
+serves as a monument to the Cardinal de Cusa, Bishop of Brixen, whose
+incised gravestone lies beneath.
+
+Over the second altar is a most interesting mosaic of 680, representing,
+in old age, the St. Sebastian whom we are accustomed to see as a
+beautiful youth, wounded with arrows,--which he survived:--
+
+     "A single figure in mosaic exists as an altar-piece in S. Pietro in
+     Vincoli. It is intended for St. Sebastian, who was removed to the
+     church by Pope Agathon, on occasion of the plague in 680, and
+     doubtless executed soon after this date. As a specimen of its kind
+     it is very remarkable. There is no analogy between this figure and
+     the usual youthful type of St. Sebastian which was subsequently
+     adopted. On the contrary, the saint is represented here as an old
+     man with white hair and beard, carrying the crown of martyrdom in
+     his hand, and dressed from head to foot in true Byzantine style. In
+     his countenance there is still some life and dignity. The more
+     careful shadowing also of the drapery shows that, in a work
+     intended to be so much exposed to the gaze of the pious, more pains
+     were bestowed than usual; nevertheless, the figure, upon the whole,
+     is very inanimate; the ground is blue."--_Kugler._
+
+The first altar in the right aisle has a picture of St. Augustine by
+_Guercino_; then come tombs of Cardinals Margotti and Agucci, from
+designs of _Domenichino_, who has introduced a portrait of the former in
+his monument. At the end of this aisle is the beautiful picture of St.
+Margaret and the Dragon by _Guercino_; the saint is inspired, and
+displaying no sign of fear,--an earthly impulse only appearing in the
+motion of her hand, which seems pushing back the dragon.
+
+     "St. Margaret was daughter of a priest of Antioch named Theodosius,
+     and was brought up as a Christian by her nurse, whose sheep she
+     watched upon the hills, while meditating upon the mysteries of the
+     gospel. The governor of Antioch fell in love with her and wished to
+     marry her, but she refused, and declared herself a Christian. Her
+     friends thereupon deserted her, and the governor tried to subdue
+     her by submitting her to horrible tortures, amid which her faith
+     did not fail. She was then dragged to a dungeon, where Satan, in
+     the form of a terrible dragon, came upon her with his inflamed and
+     hideous mouth wide open, and sought to terrify and confound her;
+     but she held up the cross of the Redeemer, and he fled before it.
+     She finally suffered death by decapitation. Her legend was
+     certainly known in the fifth century: in the fourteenth century she
+     was one of the favourite saints, and was specially invoked by women
+     against the pains of child-birth.
+
+    "'Mild Margarete, that was God's maide;
+    Maid Margarete, that was so meeke and milde.'"
+
+    See _Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art_, v. I.
+
+
+Here is the glory of the church--the famous Moses of _Michael Angelo_,
+forming part of the decorations of the unfinished monument of Julius II.
+
+     "This pope, whom nature had intended for a conqueror, and destiny
+     clothed with the robe of a priest, takes his place by the side of
+     the great warriors of the sixteenth century, by the side of Charles
+     V., of Francis I., of Gonsalvo, of Cortes, of Alba, of Bayard, and
+     of Doria. It is difficult to imagine Julius II. murmuring prayers,
+     or saying mass in pontifical robes, and performing, in the midst of
+     all those unmanly functions and thousand passive forms, the
+     spirit-deadening part which is assigned to the popes, while his
+     soul was on fire with great-hearted designs, and while in the music
+     of the psalms he seemed to hear the thunder of cannon. He wished to
+     be a prince of the Church; and with the political instinct of a
+     prince he founded his state in the midst of the most difficult wars
+     against France, and unhesitatingly conquered and took possession of
+     Bologna, Piacenza, Parma, Reggio, and Urbino....
+
+     The greatest pope since Innocent III., and the creator of a new
+     political spirit in the papacy, he wished, as a second Augustus, to
+     glorify himself and his creation. He took up again the projects of
+     Nicholas V. Rome should become his monument. To carry out his
+     designs he found the genius of Bramante and Raphael, and, above
+     all, that of Michael Angelo, who belonged to him like an organ of
+     his being. St. Peter's, of which he laid the foundation-stone, the
+     paintings of the Sistine, the loggie of Bramante, the stanze of
+     Raphael, are memorials of Julius the Second."--_Gregorovius,
+     Grabmaler der Papste._
+
+Most of all Julius II. sought immortality in his tomb, for which the
+original design was absolutely gigantic. Eighteen feet high, and twelve
+wide, it was intended to contain more than forty statues, which were to
+include Moses, St. Peter and St. Paul, Rachel and Leah, and chained
+figures of the Provinces, while those of the Heaven and the Earth were
+to support the sarcophagus of the pope. This project was cut short by
+the death of Julius in 1513, when only four of the statues were
+finished, and eight designed.[261] Of those which were finished, three
+statues, the Moses, the Rachel, and the Leah, were afterwards used for
+the existing memorial, which was put together under Paul III. by the
+Duke of Urbino, heir of Julius II.--in this church of which his uncle
+had been a cardinal.
+
+     "The eye does not know where to rest in this the masterpiece of
+     sculpture since the time of the Greeks. It seems to be as much an
+     incarnation of the genius of Michael Angelo, as a suitable allegory
+     of Pope Julius. Like Moses, he was at once lawgiver, priest, and
+     warrior. The figure is seated in the central niche, with
+     long-flowing beard descending to the waist, with horned head, and
+     deep-sunk eyes, which blaze, as it were, with the light of the
+     burning bush, with a majesty of anger which makes one tremble, as
+     of a passionate being, drunken with fire. All that is positive and
+     all that is negative in him is equally dreadful. If he were to
+     rise up, it seems as if he would shout forth laws which no human
+     intellect could fathom, and which, instead of improving the world,
+     would drive it back into chaos. His voice, like that of the gods of
+     Homer, would thunder forth in tones too awful for the ear of man to
+     support. Yes! there is something infinite which lies in the Moses
+     of Michael Angelo. Nor is his countenance softened by the twilight
+     of sadness, which is stealing from his forehead over his eyes. It
+     is the same deep sadness which clouded the countenance of Michael
+     Angelo himself. But here it is less touching than terrible. The
+     Greeks could not have endured a glance from such a Moses, and the
+     artist would certainly have been blamed, because he had thrown no
+     softening touch over his gigantic picture. That which we have is
+     the archetype of a terrible and quite unapproachable sublimity.
+     This statue might take its place in the cell of a colossal temple,
+     as that of Jupiter Ammon, but the tomb where it is placed is so
+     little suited to it, that regarded even only as its frame it is too
+     small."--_Gregorovius._
+
+On either side of the principal figure are niches containing Michael
+Angelo's statues of Rachel and Leah,--emblematic of active and
+contemplative life. Those above, of the Prophet and the Sibyl, are by
+Raphael da Montelupo, his best pupil; on the summit is the Madonna with
+the Infant Jesus by Scherano da Settignano. The worst figure of the
+whole is that, by Maso dal Bosco, of the pope himself, who seems quite
+overwhelmed by the grandeur of his companions, and who lies upon a
+pitiful sarcophagus, leaning his head upon his hand, and looking down
+upon the Moses. He is represented with the beard which he was the first
+pope to reintroduce after an interval of many centuries,--and it is said
+to have been from his example that Francis I., Charles V., and others,
+adopted it also.
+
+After all, Julius II. was not buried here, and the tomb is merely
+commemorative. He rests beneath a plain marble slab near his uncle
+Sixtus IV., in the chapel of the Sacrament at St. Peter's.
+
+Close to the Moses is the entrance to the chapel in which the chains are
+preserved, behind a bronze screen--the work of Pollajuolo. They are of
+unequal size, owing to many fragments of one of them (first whole links,
+then only filings) having been removed in the course of centuries by
+various popes and sent to Christian princes who have been esteemed
+worthy of the favour![262] The longest is about five feet in length. At
+the end of one of them is a collar, which is said to have encircled the
+neck of St. Peter. They are exposed on the day of the "station" (the
+first Monday in Lent) in a reliquary presented by Pius IX., adorned with
+statuettes of St. Peter and the angel--to whom he is represented as
+saying, "Ecce nunc scio vere."[263] On the following day a priest gives
+the chains to be kissed by the pilgrims, and touches their foreheads
+with them, saying, "By the intercession of the blessed Apostle Peter,
+may God preserve you from evil. Amen."
+
+     "Peter, therefore, was kept in prison: but prayer was made without
+     ceasing of the church unto God for him. And when Herod would have
+     brought him forth, the same night Peter was sleeping between two
+     soldiers, bound with two chains: and the keepers before the door
+     kept the prison. And, behold, the angel of the Lord came upon him,
+     and a light shined in the prison: and he smote Peter on the side,
+     and raised him up, saying, Arise up quickly. And his chains fell
+     off from his hands."--_Acts_ xii. 5--7.
+
+Other relics preserved here are portions of the crosses of St. Peter and
+St. Andrew, and the body of Sta. Costanza.
+
+The sacristy, opening out of this chapel, contains a number of pictures,
+including, very appropriately, the Deliverance of St. Peter from Prison,
+by _Domenichino_. Here, till a few years ago, was preserved the famous
+and beautiful small picture, known as the Speranza of _Guido_. It has
+lately been sold by the monks to an Englishman, and is replaced by a
+copy.
+
+In this church Hildebrand was crowned pope as Gregory VII. (1073).
+Stephen IX. was also proclaimed here in 939. The adjoining convent was
+built from designs of Giuliano San Gallo. Its courtyard contains a
+picturesque well (with columns), bearing the arms of Julius II., by
+_Simone Mosca_. The arcades were decorated in the present century with
+frescoes by _Pietra Camosci_, as a votive offering for his recovery from
+cholera, to St. Sebastian, "depulsori pestilitatis."
+
+Opposite S. Pietro in Vincoli is a convent of Maronite monks, in whose
+garden is a tall palm-tree, perhaps the finest in Rome. In the view from
+the portico of the church it forms a conspicuous feature, and the
+combination of the old tower, the palm-tree, and the distant capitol,
+standing out against the golden sky of sunset, is one very familiar to
+Roman artists.
+
+The tall machicolated _Tower_ on the right was once a fortress of the
+Frangipani family, who obtained their glorious surname of
+"bread-breakers" from the generosity which they showed in the
+distribution of food to the poor during a famine in the thirteenth
+century. The tower is now used as a belfry to the adjoining Church of
+_S. Francesco di Paola_, being the only mediæval fortress tower applied
+to this purpose. The adjoining building is known as the _House of
+Lucrezia Borgia_, and the balcony over the gateway on the other side is
+pointed out as that in which she used to stand meditating on her crimes.
+Here Cæsar Borgia and his unhappy brother, the Duke of Gandia, supped
+with Lucrezia and their mother Vanozza, the evening before the murder of
+the duke, of which Cæsar was accused by popular belief. It is worth
+while to descend under the low-browed arch from the church piazza, and
+look back upon this lofty house, with its steep, dark, winding
+staircase,--a most picturesque bit of street architecture, which looks
+better the further you descend. The Via S. Francesco di Paola is
+considered by Ampère[264] to have been the place where the house of the
+Horatii and the Tigellum Sororis once stood.
+
+Following the narrow lane behind S. Pietro, we reach, on the left, _S.
+Martino al Monte_, the great church of the Carmelites, which, though of
+uninviting exterior, is of the highest interest. It was built in A.D.
+500 by S. Symmachus, and dedicated to the saints Sylvestro and Martino,
+on the site of an older church founded by St. Sylvester in the time of
+Constantine. After repeated alterations, it was modernised in 1650 by P.
+Filippini, General of the Carmelites. The nave is separated from the
+aisles by twenty-four ancient Corinthian columns. The aisles are painted
+with landscapes by _Gaspar Poussin_, having figures introduced by his
+brother Nicholas. The roof is an addition by S. Carlo Borromeo.
+
+The pillars of different marbles are magnificent, and the effect of the
+raised choir, with winding staircases to the crypt below, is highly
+picturesque. On the walls are frescoes by _Cavaluccio_ (ob. 1795), who
+is buried in the left aisle. The collection of incised gravestones
+deserves attention, they comprise those of a knight in mail armour of
+1349; Cardinal Diomede Caraffa, with a curious epitaph; and various
+generals and remarkable monks of the Carmelite Order. Beneath the high
+altar rest the bodies of Popes Sergius, Sylvester, Martin I., Fabian,
+Stephen I., Soter, Ciriacus, Anastasius, and Innocent I., with several
+saints not papal, removed hither from the catacombs. In the curious
+crypt, part of the Baths of Titus, the early Council of Sylvester and
+Constantine was held, as represented in the fresco in the left aisle of
+the upper church. The back of the ancient chair of Sylvester still
+remains, green with age and damp. In the chapel on the left, where St.
+Sylvester used to celebrate mass, is an ancient mosaic of the Madonna.
+In front of the papal chair is the grand sepulchral figure of a
+Carmelite, who was General of the Order in the time of Sta. Teresa. An
+urn contains the intestines of the "Beato," Cardinal Giuseppe-Maria de
+Tommasis, who died in 1713. His body is preserved beneath an altar in
+the left aisle of the upper church, and is dressed in his cardinal's
+robes.
+
+     "In 1650 was reopened, beneath SS. Martino e Sylvestro, the
+     long-forgotten oratory formed (according to Anastasius) by
+     Sylvester among the halls of Trajan's Thermæ--or, more probably, in
+     an antique palace adjacent to those imperial baths--and called by
+     Christian writers 'Titulus Equitii,' from the name of a Roman
+     priest then proprietor of the ground. Now a gloomy, time-worn, and
+     sepulchral subterranean, this structure is in form an extensive
+     quadrangle, under a high-hung vault, divided into four aisles by
+     massive square piers; the central bay of one aisle adorned with a
+     large red cross, painted as if studded with gems; and ranged round
+     this, four books, each within a nimbus, earliest symbolism to
+     represent the Evangelists. Among the much-faded and dim-seen
+     frescoes on these dusky walls, are figures of the Saviour between
+     SS. Peter and Paul, besides other saints, each crowned by a large
+     nimbus."--_Hemans' Ancient Sacred Art._
+
+Here is preserved a mitre, probably the most ancient extant, and said to
+be that of St. Sylvester, who lived in the fourth century, and who was
+the first Latin bishop to wear the mitre originally worn by the priests
+of pagan temples. This ancient mitre is so low as to rise only just
+above the crown of the head.
+
+This church was dedicated to St. Martin, the holy Bishop of Tours,
+within a hundred years after his death, showing the very early
+veneration with which that saint was regarded.
+
+Leaving S. Martino by the other door, near the tribune, we emerge at the
+top of the steep street called _Sta. Lucia in Selci_, which is the same
+with that described by Martial in going to visit the younger Pliny as--
+
+    "Altum vincere tramitem Suburræ." _Lib._ x. _Ep._ 19, 5.
+
+And again--
+
+    "Alto Suburrani vincenda est semita clivi." _Lib._ v. _Ep._ 23, 5.
+
+Here is a whole group of convents. In the hollow is the convent of S.
+Francesco di Paola, with several others. Just above (in the Via Quattro
+Cantone) is the convent of the Oratorians, or S. Filippo Neri. At this
+point also are two mediæval towers, one enclosed within the convent
+walls of Sta. Lucia in Selci, the other on the opposite side of the
+street, supposed by some to be the tower of Mecænas, celebrated by
+Horace. On the left of the street is the house of Domenichino (Domenico
+Zampieri), whose residence here is commemorated by an inscription.
+
+Mounting the street we soon reach, on the right, the picturesque tenth
+century west gate (a high narrow arch upon Ionic columns, modernized and
+plastered over under the Sardinian government) of the _Church of Sta.
+Prassede_, which leads into the atrium of the church. This is seldom
+open, but we can enter by a door in the north aisle.
+
+Sta. Prassede was sister of Sta. Pudenziana, and daughter of Pudens and
+his wife Claudia, with whom St. Paul lodged, and who were among his
+first converts (see Ch. X., Sta. Pudenziana). She gave shelter in her
+house to a number of persecuted Christians, twenty-three of whom were
+discovered and martyred in her presence. She then buried their bodies in
+the catacombs of her grandmother, Sta. Priscilla, but, collecting their
+blood in a sponge, placed it in a well in her own house, where she was
+afterwards buried herself. An oratory is said to have been erected on
+the site by Pius I., A.D. 160, and was certainly in existence in A.D.
+499, when it is mentioned in the acts of a Council. In A.D. 822 the
+original church was destroyed, and the present church erected by Pascal
+I., of whose time are the low tower, the porch, the terra-cotta
+cornices, and the mosaics. During the absence of the popes at Avignon,
+Sta. Prassede was one of the many churches which fell almost into ruin,
+and it has since suffered terribly from injudicious modernisations,
+first in the fifteenth century from Rosellini, under Nicholas V., and
+afterwards under S. Carlo Borromeo in 1564.
+
+The interior is a basilica, the nave being separated from the aisles by
+sixteen granite columns, many of which have been boxed up in hideous
+stucco pilasters, decorated with frescoes of apostles; but their
+Corinthian capitals are visible, carved with figures of birds (the
+eagle, cock, and dove) in strong relief against the acanthus leaves. The
+nave is divided into four compartments by arches rising from the square
+pilasters; the roof is coffered.
+
+In the right aisle is the entrance to the famous chapel, called, from
+its unusual and mysterious splendour, the _Orto del
+Paradiso_--originally dedicated to S. Zeno, then to the Virgin, with the
+invocation "Libera nos a poenis inferi," and finally to the great
+relic which it contains. Females are never allowed to enter this shrine
+except upon Sundays in Lent, but can see the relic through a grating.
+Males are admitted by the door which is flanked by two columns of rare
+black and white marble, supporting a richly-sculptured marble cornice,
+above which are two lines of mosaic heads in circlets--in the outer, the
+Saviour and the twelve apostles; in the inner, the Virgin between St.
+Stephen and St. Laurence, with eight female saints; at the angles St.
+Pudens and St. Pastor. In the interior of the chapel four granite
+columns support a lofty groined vault, which, together with the upper
+part of the walls, is entirely covered with mosaic figures, which stand
+out distinctly from a gold ground.
+
+     "Here are SS. Peter and Paul before a throne, on which is the
+     cross, but no seated figure; the former apostle holding a single
+     gold key,[265] the latter a scroll; St. John the Evangelist, with a
+     richly-bound volume; SS. James and Andrew, the two daughters of
+     Pudens, and St. Agnes, all in rich vestments, and holding crowns;
+     the Virgin Mary (a veiled matronly figure), and St. John the
+     Baptist standing beside her; under the arch of a window, another
+     half-figure of Mary, with three other females, all having the
+     nimbus, one crowned, one with a square halo to indicate a person
+     still living; above these, the Divine Lamb on a hill, from which
+     the four rivers issue, with stags drinking of their waters; above
+     the altar, the Saviour, between four other saints,--figures in part
+     barbarously sacrificed to a modern tabernacle that conceals them.
+     On the vault a colossal half-figure of the Saviour, youthful but
+     severe in aspect, with cruciform nimbus, appears in a large
+     circular halo supported by four archangels, solemn forms in long
+     white vestments, that stand finely distinct in the dim light.
+     Within a niche over the altar is another mosaic of the Virgin and
+     Child, with the two daughters of Pudens, in which Rumohr
+     (Italienische Forsch.) observes ruder execution, indicating origin
+     later than the ninth century."--_Hemans' Ancient Christian Art._
+
+The relic preserved here (one of the principal objects of pilgrimage in
+Rome) is the column to which our Saviour is reputed to have been bound,
+said to have been given by the Saracens to Giovanni Colonna, cardinal of
+this church, and legate of the crusade, because, when he had fallen into
+their hands and was about to be put to death, he was rescued by a
+marvellous intervention of celestial light. Its being of the rarest
+blood jasper is a reason against its authenticity; the peculiarity of
+its formation having even given rise to the mineralogical term, "Granito
+della Colonna." A disk of porphyry in the pavement marks the grave of
+forty martyrs collected by Paschal I. The mother of that pope is also
+buried here, and the inscription commemorating her observes an ancient
+ecclesiastical usage in allowing her the title of "episcopa:" "_Ubi
+utique benignissimæ suæ genitricis, scilicet Dominæ Theodoræ, Episcopæ
+corpus quiescit._" In this chapel Paschal I. saw the spirit of his
+nephew dragged to heaven by an angel, through the little window, while
+he was saying a mass for his soul.
+
+The high altar covers the entrance to a small crypt, in which are two
+ancient sarcophagi, containing the remains of the sainted sisters
+Prassede and Pudenziana. An altar here, richly decorated with mosaic, is
+shown as that which existed in the house of Prassede. Above is a fresco,
+referred to the twelfth century, representing the Madonna between the
+sainted sisters. At the end of the left aisle is a large slab of granite
+(nero-bianco), upon which Sta. Prassede is said to have slept, and above
+it a picture of her asleep. In the centre of the nave is the well where
+she collected the blood, with a hideous statue of her squeezing it out
+of a sponge.
+
+The chapel at the end of the left aisle is that of S. Carlo Borromeo,
+who was cardinal of this church, and contains his episcopal throne (a
+wooden chair) and a table, at which, like St. Gregory, he used to feed
+and wait upon twelve poor men daily. The pictures in this chapel, by
+_Louis Stern_, represent S. Carlo in prayer, and in ecstasy before the
+Sacrament. In the cloister is an old orange-tree which was planted by
+him, but is still flourishing.
+
+Opposite the side entrance of the Orto del Paradiso is the tomb of
+Cardinal Cetive (1474), with his sleeping figure and statuettes of SS.
+Peter and Paul, Sta. Prassede, and Sta. Pudenziana. This will recall
+Browning's quaint forcible poem of 'The Bishop who orders his tomb at
+Saint Praxed's church.'
+
+    "Saint Praxed's ever was the church for peace.
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    And there how I shall lie through centuries,
+    And hear the blessed mutter of the mass,
+    And see God made and eaten all day long,
+    And feel the steady candle flame, and taste
+    Good strong thick stupefying incense-smoke!"
+
+Other tombs of interest are those of Cardinal Ancherus, assassinated in
+1286 outside the Porta S. Giovanni, and of Monsignor Santoni, a bust,
+said to have been executed by Bernini when only ten years old.
+
+Two pictures in side chapels are interesting in a Vallombrosan church,
+as connected with saints of that order,--one representing S. Pietro
+Aldobrandini passing through the furnace at Settimo; and another the
+martyrdom of Cardinal Beccaria, put to death at Florence (whither he was
+sent by Alexander IV. to make peace between the Guelfs and
+Ghibellines)--and consigned to hell by Dante.
+
+       ----"Quel di Beccaria
+    Di cui segò Fiorenza la gorgiera."
+
+    _Inferno_, xxxii.
+
+Steps of magnificent rosso-antico lead to the tribune, which is covered
+with mosaics of A.D. 817-824. Those on the arch represent the heavenly
+Jerusalem; within is the Saviour with a cruciform halo--the hand of the
+first person of the Trinity holding a crown over his head--and St. Peter
+and St. Paul bringing in the sainted sisters of the church; on the
+right, Pope Paschal I.,[266] with a model of his church; on the left,
+St. Zeno (?). Above these figures, is the Adoration of the spotless
+Lamb, and beneath their feet the Jordan; below all is the Lamb again,
+with the twelve sheep issuing from the mystic cities of Jerusalem and
+Bethlehem, and verses recording the work of Paschal I.
+
+     "The arrangement of saints at Sta. Prassede (817) is altogether
+     different from that at Ravenna, but equally striking. Over the
+     grand arch which separates the choir from the nave is a mosaic,
+     representing the New Jerusalem, as described in the Revelations. It
+     is a walled enclosure, with a gate at each end, guarded by angels.
+     Within is seen the Saviour of the World, holding in his hand the
+     orb of sovereignty, and a company of blessed seated on thrones:
+     outside, the noble army of martyrs is seen approaching, conducted
+     and received by angels. They are all arrayed in white, and carry
+     crowns in their hands. Lower down, on each side, a host of martyrs
+     press forward with palms and crowns, to do homage to the Lamb,
+     throned in the midst. None of the martyrs are distinguished by
+     name, except those to whom the church is dedicated--Sta. Prassede
+     and her sister Pudenziana."--_Mrs. Jameson._
+
+While Pope Gelasius II. was celebrating mass in this church, he was
+attacked by armed bands of the inimical houses of Leone and Frangipani,
+and was only rescued by the assistance of his nephew Gaetano, after a
+conflict of some hours. Hence in 1630, Moriandi, abbot of Sta.
+Prassede, was suddenly carried off and put to fearful tortures, which
+resulted in his death, ostensibly on account of irregularities in his
+convent, but really because he had been heard to speak against Urban
+VIII.[267]
+
+In the sacristy is preserved a fine picture by Giulio Romano of the
+Flagellation--especially appropriate in the church of the Colonna.
+
+Hence the curious campanile of the old church (built 1110) may be
+entered, and a loggia whence the great relics of the church are
+exhibited at Easter, including: portions of the crown of thorns, of the
+sponge, of the Virgin's hair, and a miniature portrait of our Saviour
+which is said to have belonged to St. Peter and to have been left by him
+with the daughters of Pudens.
+
+The _Monastery_ attached to the church, founded by Paschal I., was first
+occupied by Basilian, but since 1198 has belonged to Vallombrosan monks.
+Nothing remains of the mosaic-covered chapel of St. Agnes, built by the
+founder within its walls.
+
+Where the Via Sta. Prassede crosses the road leading from Sta. Maria
+Maggiore to the Lateran, is the modern gothic church of _Il Santissimo
+Redentore_, built by Father Douglas within the last few years.
+
+A little beyond this, attached to the Church of S. Vito, from which it
+has sometimes been named, is the _Arch of Gallienus_ (supposed to occupy
+the site of the Esquiline gate in the wall of Servius), dedicated to
+Gallienus (A.D. 253--260) and his Empress Salonina, by Marcus Aurelius
+Victor, evidently a court-flatterer of the period, who was prefect of
+Rome, and possessed gardens on this spot. It is of very inferior
+execution; the original plan had three arches; only that in the centre
+remains, but traces of another may be seen on the side next the church.
+Gallienus was a cruel and self-indulgent emperor, who excited the
+indignation of the Romans by leaving his old father, Valerian, to die a
+captive in the hands of the Persians, so that the inscription,
+"_Clementissimo principi cuius invicta virtus sola pietate superata
+est_," is singularly false, even for the time.
+
+     "Il arrivait à Gallien de faire tuer trois ou quatre mille soldats
+     en un jour, et il écrivait des lettres comme celle-ci, adressée à
+     un de ses généraux: 'Tu n'auras pas fait assez pour moi, si tu ne
+     mets à mort que des hommes armés, car le sort de la guerre aurait
+     pu les faire périr. Il faut tuer quiconque a eu une intention
+     mauvaise, quiconque a mal parlé de moi. Déchire, tue, extermine:
+     _lacera, occide, concide_.' Entré dans Byzance en promettant leur
+     pardon aux troupes qui avaient combattu contre lui, il les fit
+     égorger, et les soldats ravagèrent la ville au point qu'il n'y
+     resta pas un habitant. Voilà pour la clémence. Tandis que Valérien,
+     son père, était prisonnier du roi des Perses Sapor, qui pour monter
+     à cheval se servait du dos du vieil empereur comme d'un marchepied,
+     en attendant qu'il le fit empailler, l'indigne fils de Valérien
+     vivait au sein des plus honteuses voluptés, et ne tentait pas un
+     seul effort pour le délivrer. Voilà pour la vaillance et la
+     piété."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 334.
+
+Close to this Gallienus had ordered a statue of himself to be erected,
+which was to be double the height of the colossus of Nero, but it was
+unfinished at the time of his death, and destroyed by his successor.
+From the centre of the arch hung, from the thirteenth century, the chain
+and keys of the gates of Viterbo, removed at the same time as the great
+bell of the Capitol. These interesting memorials of middle-age warfare
+were taken down in 1825.
+
+Passing under the arch we enter upon the Via Maggiore, the main artery
+leading to Santa Croce. On the left is the humble convent of the
+_Monache Polacche_, where the long-suffering Madre Makrena, the sole
+survivor of the terrible persecution of the nuns of Minsk, has lived in
+the closest retirement since her escape in 1845.
+
+     The story of the cruel sufferings of the Polish-Basilian nuns of
+     Minsk reminds one of the worst persecutions of the early
+     Christians, under Nero and Diocletian. Makrena Miaczylslawska was
+     abbess of a convent of thirty-eight nuns, whom the apostate bishop
+     Siemasko first tried to compel to the Greek faith in the summer of
+     1838. Their refusal led to their being driven, laden with chains,
+     to Witepsk, in Siberia, where they were forced to hard labour, many
+     of them being beaten to death, one roasted alive in a hot stove,
+     and another having her brains beaten out with a stake by the abbess
+     of the Czernice (apostate nuns), on their persisting in their
+     refusal to change their religion. In 1840 the surviving nuns were
+     removed to Polock, where they were forced to work at building a
+     palace for the bishop Siemasko, and where nine of them perished by
+     a falling scaffold, and many others expired under the heavy weights
+     they were compelled to carry, or under the lash. In 1842 their
+     tortures were increased tenfold, eight of the sisters having their
+     eyes torn out, and others being trodden to death. In 1843 those who
+     still survived were removed to Miadzioly, where the "protopope
+     Skrykin" said that he would "drown them like puppies," and where
+     they were dragged by boats through the shallows of the half-frozen
+     Dwina, up to their necks in water, till many died of the cold. In
+     the spring of 1845, Makrena, with the only three nuns who survived
+     with the use of their limbs (Eusebia Wawrzecka, Clotilda Konarska,
+     and Irene Pomarnacka,) scaled the walls of their prison, while the
+     priests and nuns who guarded them were lying drunk after an orgie,
+     and, after wandering for three months in the forests of Lithuania,
+     made good their escape. The nuns remained in Vienna; the abbess,
+     after a series of extraordinary adventures, arrived in Rome, where
+     she was at first lodged in the convent of the Trinità de' Monti.
+     The story of the nuns of Minsk was taken down from her dictation at
+     the same time by a number of eminent ecclesiastics, authorized by
+     the pope, and the authenticity of her statements verified; after
+     which she retired into complete seclusion in the Polish convent on
+     the Esquiline, where she has long filled the humble office of
+     portress. Her legs are eaten into the bone by the chains she wore
+     in her prison life. The story of the persecution at Minsk may be
+     read in "Le Récit de Makrena Miaczylslawska," published at Paris,
+     by Lecoffre, in 1846; in a paper by Charles Dickens, in the
+     "Household Words," for May, 1854; and in "Pictures of Christian
+     Heroism," 1855.
+
+Nearly opposite this convent is the picturesque ruin of a nymphæum,
+probably of the time of Septimius Severus, erroneously called _The
+Trophies of Marius_, from the trophies, now on the terrace in front of
+the Capitol, which were found here.
+
+Beyond this, on the right, is the entrance of the _Villa Palombara_,
+occupying a great part of the site of the Baths of Titus.
+
+     "This villa once belonged to Queen Christina of Sweden, who has
+     left upon the little doorway exactly opposite the ruin called the
+     Trophies of Marius, a curious record of her credulity. It consists
+     of a collection of unintelligible words, signs, and triangles,
+     given her by some alchymist, as the rule to make gold, and which,
+     no doubt, he had found successful, having obtained from her, and
+     probably from many other votaries, abundance of that precious metal
+     in exchange for it. But as she could make nothing of it, she caused
+     it to be inscribed here, in case any passenger, wiser than herself,
+     should be able to develope the mystic signs of this golden
+     secret."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+Though the existing ruin is misnamed, the trophies erected in honour of
+the victories which Marius gained over the Cimbri were really set up
+near this; and, curiously enough, on this site also Marius was defeated
+at the "Forum Esquilinum" by Sylla, who suddenly descended upon Rome
+from Nola with six legions, and entering by the Porta Esquilina, met his
+adversary here, and forced him to fly to Ostia.
+
+Behind the Trophies of Marius a lane branches off on the left to the
+desolate _Church of Sta. Bibiana_.
+
+     In the time of Julian the Apostate, there dwelt in Rome a Christian
+     unity, consisting of Flavian, his wife Dalfrosa, and his two
+     daughters, Bibiana and Demetria. All these died for their faith.
+     Flavian was exiled, and died of starvation; Dalfrosa was beheaded;
+     the sisters were imprisoned (A.D. 362) and scourged, and Demetria
+     died at once under the torture. Bibiana glorified God by longer
+     sufferings. Apronius, the prefect of the city, astonished by her
+     beauty, conceived a guilty passion for her, and placed her under
+     the care of one of his creatures named Rufina, who was gradually to
+     bend her to his will. But Bibiana repelled his proposals with
+     horror, and her firmness excited him to such fury, that he
+     commanded her to be bound to a column, and scourged to compliance.
+     "The order was executed with all imaginable cruelty, rivers of
+     blood flowed from each wound, and morsels of flesh were torn away,
+     till even the most barbarous spectators were stricken with horror.
+     The saint alone continued immoveable, with her eyes fixed upon
+     heaven, and her countenance radiant with celestial peace,--until
+     her body being torn to pieces, her soul escaped to her heavenly
+     bridegroom, to receive the double crown of virginity and
+     martyrdom."[268]
+
+     After the death of Bibiana, her body was exposed to dogs for three
+     days in the Forum Boarium, but remained unmolested; after which it
+     was stolen at night by John the priest, who buried it here.
+
+The church, founded in the fifth century by Olympia, a Roman matron, was
+modernised by Bernini for Urban VIII., and has no external appearance of
+antiquity. The interior is adorned with frescoes; those on the right are
+by _Agostino Ciampelli_, those on the left are considered by Lanzi as
+the best works of _Pietro da Cortona_. They pourtray in detail the story
+of the saint:--
+
+    1. Bibiana refuses to sacrifice to idols.
+    2. The death of Demetria.
+    3. Bibiana is scourged at the column.
+    4. The body of Bibiana is watched over by a dog.
+    5. Olympia founds the church, which is dedicated by Pope Simplicius.
+
+The statue of the saint at the high altar is considered the masterpiece
+of _Bernini_. It is dignified and graceful, and would hardly be
+recognised as his work.
+
+     "This statue is one of his earliest works; and it is said that when
+     Bernini, in advanced life, returned from France, he uttered, on
+     seeing it, an involuntary expression of admiration. 'But,' added
+     he, 'had I always worked in this style, I should have been a
+     beggar.' This would lead us to conclude, that his own taste led him
+     to prefer simplicity and truth, but that he was obliged to conform
+     to the corrupted predilection of the age."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+The remains of the saint are preserved beneath the altar, in a splendid
+sarcophagus of oriental alabaster, adorned with a leopard's head. A
+column of rosso-antico is shown as that to which Sta. Bibiana was bound
+during her flagellation. The _fête_ of the martyred sisters is observed
+with great solemnity on December 2.
+
+     "Il est touchant de voir, le jour de la fête, le Chapitre entier de
+     la grande et somptueuse basilique de Sainte-Marie-Majeure venir
+     processionellement à cette modeste église et célébrer de
+     solennelles et pompeuses cérémonies en l'honneur de ces deux
+     vierges et leur mère: C'est que si ces trois femmes étaient faibles
+     et ignorées selon le monde, elles sont devenues par leur foi,
+     fortes et sublimes; et l'Église ne croit pouvoir trop faire pour
+     glorifier une pareille grandeur."--_Impressions d'une Catholique à
+     Rome._
+
+On or near this site were the _Horti Lamiani_, in which the Emperor
+Caligula was hastily buried after his assassination, A.D. 41, though his
+remains were shortly afterwards disinterred by his sisters and burnt.
+These gardens were probably the property of Ælius Lamia, to whom Horace
+addressed one of his odes.[269] At an earlier period Elius Tubero lived
+here, celebrated for his virtue, his poverty, and his little house,
+where sixteen members of the Elian Gens dwelt harmoniously
+together.[270] He married the daughter of L. Emilius Paulus, "who," says
+Plutarch, "though the daughter of one who had twice been consul and
+twice triumphed, did not blush for the poverty of her husband, but
+admired the virtue which had made him poor."
+
+On the other side of the Trophies of Marius, the Via Porta Maggiore
+leads to the gate of that name (see Ch. XIII.). Approached by a gate on
+the left of this road, most desolate, until the making of the railway
+amid its vineyards and gardens, and crowned with lentiscus and other
+shrubs, is the picturesque ruin generally called the _Temple of Minerva
+Medica_, from a false impression that the Giustiniani Minerva, now in
+the Vatican, had been found here.[271] It is now generally decided to be
+a remnant of the bath built by Augustus in honour of his grandsons Caius
+and Lucius Cæsar (sons of Agrippa and Julia). It is a decagon, with a
+vaulted brick roof, and nine niches for statues; those of Æsculapius,
+Antinous, Hercules, Adonis, Pomona, and (the Farnese) Faun, have been
+found on the site.
+
+Near this is a curious _Columbarium of the Arruntia Family_, and a
+brick-lined hollow, supposed to be part of the Naumachia which Dion
+Cassius says that Augustus constructed "in the grove of Caius and
+Lucius."
+
+Just where the lane turns off to Sta. Bibiana is the entrance to the
+courtyard of the _Church and Monastery of S. Eusebio_, built upon the
+site of the house of the saint, a priest of noble family, martyred by
+starvation under Constantius, A.D. 357. His body rests under the high
+altar, with that of St. Orosus, a Spanish priest, who suffered at the
+same time. The ceiling of the church is painted by _Mengs_, and
+represents the apotheosis of the patron saint. The campanile dates from
+1220. In this convent (which was conceded to the Jesuits in 1825 by Leo
+XII.) English clergymen about to join the Roman Catholic Church
+frequently "make a retreat" before their reception; Archdeacon
+Wilberforce is one of many converts who have been received here.
+
+Turning towards Sta. Maria Maggiore, on the left is a _Cross_ on a
+pedestal formed by a cannon reversed, and inscribed "In hoc signo
+vinces,"--a memorial of the absolution given by Clement VIII. in 1595 to
+Henry IV. of France on his being received into the Roman Catholic
+Church.
+
+Opposite this is a peculiar round arched doorway--unique in
+Rome--forming the entrance to the _Church of S. Antonio Abbate_, said to
+occupy the site of a temple of Diana. The church is decorated with very
+coarsely-executed frescoes of the life of the saint,--his birth, his
+confirmation by a bishop who predicted his future saintship, and his
+temptation by the devil in various forms.
+
+     "S. Antonio, called 'the patriarch of monks,' became a hermit in
+     his twentieth year, and lived alone in the Egyptian desert till his
+     fifty-fifth year, when he founded his monastery of Phaim, where he
+     died at the age of 105, having passed his life in perpetual prayer,
+     and often tasting no food for three days at a time. In the desert
+     Satan was permitted to assault him in a visible manner, to terrify
+     him with dismal noises; and once he so grievously beat him that he
+     lay almost dead, covered with bruises and wounds. At other times
+     the fiends attacked him with terrible clamours, and a variety of
+     spectres, in hideous shapes of the most frightful wild beasts,
+     which they assumed to dismay and terrify him; till a ray of
+     heavenly light breaking in upon him, chased them away, and caused
+     him to cry out, 'Where wast thou, my Lord and Master? Why wast thou
+     not with me?' And a voice answered, 'Anthony, I was here the whole
+     time; I stood by thee, and beheld thy combat: and because thou hast
+     manfully withstood thy enemies I will always protect thee, and will
+     render thy name famous throughout the earth.'"--_Butler's Lives of
+     the Saints._
+
+     "Surely the imagery painted on the inner walls of Egyptian tombs,
+     and probably believed by Anthony and his compeers to be connected
+     with devil-worship, explains his visions. In the 'Words of the
+     Elders' a monk complains of being troubled with 'pictures, old and
+     new.' Probably, again, the pain which Anthony felt was the agony of
+     a fever, and the visions which he saw its delirium."--_Kingsley's
+     Hermits._
+
+In the chapel of S. Antonio is a very ancient mosaic, representing a
+tiger tearing a bull.
+
+     "Le tigre en mosaïque conservé dans l'église de St. Antoine, patron
+     des animaux, est, selon toute apparence, le portrait d'un acteur
+     renommé."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iv. 28.
+
+Hither, on the week following the feast of St. Anthony (January 17),
+horses, mules, and cows are brought to be blest as a preservative
+against accidents for the year to come. On the 23rd, the horses of the
+pope, Prince Borghese, and other Roman grandees (about 2-1/2 P.M.) are
+sent for this purpose. All the animals are sprinkled with holy water by
+a priest, who receives a gift in proportion to the wealth of their
+master, and recites over each group the formula,--
+
+     "Per intercessionem beati Antonii Abbatis, hæc animalia liberantur
+     a malis, in nomine Patris et Filii et Spiritus Sancti. Amen!"
+
+     "Les bergers romains faisaient la _lustration_ de leurs taureaux;
+     ils purifiaient leurs brebis à la fête de Pales (pour écarter d'eux
+     toute influence funeste), comme ils les font encore asperger d'eau
+     bénite à la fête de Saint Antoine."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ ii.
+     329.[272]
+
+     "'Long live St. Anthony,' writes Mabillon (in the 17th century) as
+     he describes the horses, asses, and mules, all going on the saint's
+     festival to be sprinkled with holy water, and receive the
+     benediction of a reverend father. 'All would go to ruin,' say the
+     Romans, 'if this act of piety were omitted.' So nobody escapes
+     paying toll on this occasion, not even Nostro Signore
+     himself."--_Stephens' French Benedictines._
+
+     "S. Antonio Abbate is the patron of the four-footed creation, and
+     his feast is a saturnalia for the usually hard-worked beasts and
+     for their attendants and drivers. Gentlefolks must be content on
+     this day to stay at home or go on foot, for there are not wanting
+     solemn tales of how the unbelievers who had obliged their coachmen
+     to drive out on this day have been punished by great misfortunes.
+     The church of S. Antonio stands in a large piazza, usually looking
+     like a desert; but to-day it was enlivened by a varied throng:
+     horses and mules, with tails and manes splendidly interlaced with
+     ribbons, are brought to a small chapel standing somewhat apart from
+     the church, where a priest armed with a large asperge plentifully
+     besprinkles the animals with the holy water which is placed before
+     him in tubs and pails, sometimes apparently with a sly wish to
+     excite them to gambols. Devout coachmen bring larger or smaller
+     wax-tapers, and their masters send alms and gifts, in order to
+     secure to their valuable and useful animals a year's exemption from
+     disease and accident. Horned cattle and donkeys, equally precious
+     and serviceable to their owners, have their share in the
+     blessing."--_Goethe, Romische Briefe._
+
+     "At the blessing of the animals, an adventure happened, which
+     afforded us some amusement. A countryman, having got a blessing on
+     his beast, putting his whole trust in its power, set off from the
+     church door at a grand gallop, and had scarcely cleared a hundred
+     yards before the ungainly animal tumbled down with him, and over
+     its head he rolled into the dirt. He soon got up, however, and
+     shook himself, and so did the horse, without either seeming to be
+     much the worse. The priest seemed not a whit out of countenance at
+     this; and some of the standers-by exclaimed, with laudable
+     steadfastness of faith, 'That but for the blessing, they might have
+     broken their necks.'"--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+     "Un postilion Italien, qui voyait mourir son cheval, priait pour
+     lui, et s'écriait: O, Sant' Antonio, abbiate pietà dell' anima
+     sua!"--_Madame de Staël._
+
+     "The hog was the representative of the demon of sensuality and
+     gluttony, which Anthony is supposed to have vanquished by the
+     exercise of piety and by the divine aid. The ancient custom of
+     placing in all his effigies a black pig at his feet, or under his
+     feet, gave rise to the superstition, that this unclean animal was
+     especially dedicated to him and under his protection. The monks of
+     the Order of St. Anthony kept herds of consecrated pigs, which were
+     allowed to feed at the public charge, and which it was a
+     profanation to steal or kill; hence the proverb about the fatness
+     of a 'Tantony pig.'"--_Jameson's Sacred Art_, p. 750.
+
+We now enter the Piazza of Sta. Maria Maggiore, in front of which stands
+a beautiful Corinthian column, now called _Colonna della Vergine_. This
+is the last remaining column of the Basilica of Constantine, and is
+forty-seven feet high without its base and capital. It was brought
+hither by Paul V. in 1613. The figure of the Virgin on the top is by
+Bertelot.
+
+The _Basilica of Sta. Maria Maggiore_, frequently named from its founder
+the _Liberian Basilica_, was founded A.D. 352, by Pope Liberius, and
+John,[273] a Roman patrician, to commemorate a miraculous fall of snow,
+which covered this spot of ground and no other, on the 5th of August,
+when the Virgin appearing in a vision, showed them that she had thus
+appropriated the site of a new temple.[274] This legend is commemorated
+every year on the 5th of August, the festa of La Madonna della Neve,
+when, during a solemn high mass in the Borghese chapel, showers of white
+rose-leaves are thrown down constantly through two holes in the ceiling,
+"like a leafy mist between the priests and worshippers."
+
+This church, in spite of many alterations, is in some respects
+internally the most beautiful and harmonious building in Rome, and
+retains much of the character which it received when rebuilt between 432
+and 440, by Sixtus III., who dedicated it to Sta. Maria Mater Dei, and
+established it as one of the four patriarchal basilicas, whence it is
+provided with the "porta santa," only opened by the pope, with great
+solemnity, four times in a century.
+
+The west front was added under Benedict XIV. (Lambertini) in 1741, by
+Ferdinando Fuga, destroying a portico of the time of Eugenius III., of
+which the only remnant is an architrave, inserted into which is an
+inscription, quoted by its defenders in proof of the existence of
+Mariolatry in the twelfth century:--
+
+    "Tertius Eugenius Romanus Papa benignus
+      Obtulit hoc munus, Virgo Maria, tibi,
+    Quæ Mater Christi fieri merito meruisti,
+      Salva perpetua Virginitate tibi.
+    Es Via, Vita, Salus, totius Gloria Mundi,
+      Da veniam culpis, Virginitatis Honos."
+
+In this portico is a statue of Philip IV. of Spain by _Lucenti_. In the
+upper story are preserved the mosaics which once decorated the old
+façade, some of them representing the miracle which led to the
+foundation of the church.
+
+     "To 1300 belong the mosaics on the upper part of the façade of Sta.
+     Maria Maggiore (now inserted in the loggia), in which, in two rows,
+     framed in architectural decorations, may be seen Christ in the act
+     of benediction, and several saints above, and the legend of the
+     founding of the church below--both well-arranged compositions. An
+     inscription gives the name of the otherwise unknown master,
+     'Philippus Rusuti.' This work was formerly attributed to the
+     Florentine mosaicist Gaddo Gaddi, who died 1312."--_Kugler._
+
+Five doors, if we include the walled-up Porta Santa, lead into the
+magnificent nave (280 feet long, 60 broad), lined by an avenue of white
+marble columns, surmounted by a frieze of mosaic pictures from the Old
+Testament, of A.D. 440--unbroken, except where six of the subjects have
+been cut away to make room for arches in front of the two great side
+chapels. The mosaics increase in splendour as they approach the tribune,
+in front of which is a grand baldacchino by Fuga, erected by Benedict
+XIV., supported by four porphyry columns wreathed with gilt leaves, and
+surmounted by four marble angels by Pietro Bracci. The pavement is of
+the most glorious opus-alexandrinum, and its crimson and violet hues
+temper the white and gold on the walls. The flat roof (by Sangallo),
+panelled and carved, is gilt with the first gold brought to Spain from
+South America, and presented to Alexander VI. by Ferdinand and Isabella.
+
+     "The mosaics above the chancel arch are valuable for the
+     illustration of Christian doctrine: the throne of the Lamb as
+     described in the Apocalypse, SS. Peter and Paul beside it (the
+     earliest instance of their being thus represented); and the four
+     symbols of the Evangelists above; the Annunciation; the Angel
+     appearing to Zacharias; the Massacre of the Innocents; the
+     Presentation in the Temple; the Adoration of the Magi; Herod
+     receiving the head of St. John the Baptist; and, below these
+     groups, a flock of sheep, type of the faithful, issuing from the
+     mystic cities, Bethlehem and Jerusalem. We see here one curious
+     example of the nimbus, round the head of Herod, as a symbol of
+     power, apart from sanctity. In certain details these mosaics have
+     been altered, with a view to adapting them to modern devotional
+     bias, in a manner that deserves reprobation; but Ciampini
+     (Monumenta Vetera) shows us in engraving what the originals were
+     before this alteration, effected under Benedict XIV. In the group
+     of the Adoration the child _alone_ occupied the throne, while
+     opposite (in the original work) was seated, on another chair, an
+     elderly person in a long blue mantle veiling the head--concluded by
+     Ciampini to be the senior among the Magi; the two others, younger,
+     and both in the usual Oriental dress, with trousers and Phrygian
+     caps, being seen to approach at the same side, whilst the mother
+     _stood_ beside the throne of the child,--her figure recognisable
+     from its resemblance to others in scenes where she appears in the
+     same series. As this group is now before us, the erect figure is
+     left out; the seated one is converted into that of Mary, with a
+     halo round the head, though in the original even such attribute
+     (alike given to the Saviour and to all the angels introduced) is
+     _not_ assigned to her."--_Hemans' Ancient Christian Art._
+
+The vault of the tribune is covered with mosaics by Jacopo da Turrita,
+the same who executed those at the Lateran basilica.
+
+     "A general affinity with the style of Cimabue is observable in some
+     mosaics executed by contemporary artists. Those in Sta. Maria
+     Maggiore are inscribed with the name of Jacobus Torriti, and
+     executed between 1287 and 1292. They are surpassed by no
+     contemporary work in dignity, grace, and decorative beauty of
+     arrangement. In a blue, gold-starred circle is seen Christ
+     enthroned with the Virgin; on each side are adoring angels,
+     kneeling and flying, on a gold ground, with St. Peter and St. Paul,
+     the two St. Johns, St. Francis, and St. Anthony (the same in size
+     and position as at St. J. Lateran), advancing devoutly along. The
+     upper part is filled with graceful vine-branches, with symbolical
+     animals among them. Below is Jordan, with small river gods, boats,
+     and figures of men and animals. Further below are scenes from the
+     life of Christ in animated arrangement. The group in the centre of
+     the circle, of Christ enthroned with the Virgin, is especially
+     fine: while the Saviour is placing the crown on His mother's head,
+     she lifts up her hands with the expression both of admiration and
+     of modest remonstrance.[275] The forms are very pure and noble; the
+     execution careful, and very different from the Roman mosaics of the
+     twelfth century."--_Kugler._
+
+In front of and beneath the high altar Pius IX. has lately been
+preparing his own monument, by constructing a splendid chamber
+approached by staircases, and lined with the most precious alabaster and
+marbles.
+
+On the right of the western entrance is the tomb of the Rospigliosi
+pope, Clement IX. (1667--69), the work of Ercole Ferrata, a pupil of
+Bernini. His body rests before the high altar, surrounded by a number of
+the members of his family. Left of the entrance is the tomb of Nicholas
+IV., Masci (1288-92), erected to his memory three hundred years after
+his death by Sixtus V. while still a cardinal. He is represented giving
+benediction, between two allegorical figures of Justice and Religion,--a
+fine work of Leonardo da Sarzana.
+
+     "It is well to know that this pope, a mere upstart from the dust,
+     sought to support himself through the mighty family of Colonna, by
+     raising them too high. His friend, the Cardinal Giacomo Colonna,
+     contributed with him to the renewal of the mosaics which are in the
+     tribune of Sta. Maria Maggiore, and one can see their two figures
+     there to this day. It was in this reign that Ptolemais, the last
+     possession of the Christians in Asia, fell into the hands of the
+     Mohammedans; thus ended the era of the Crusades."--_Gregorovius._
+
+Behind this tomb, near the walled-up Porta Santa, is a good tomb of two
+bishops, brothers, of the fifteenth century, and in the same aisle are
+many other monuments of the sixteenth century, some of them fine in
+their way.
+
+Nearly on a line with the baldacchino is the entrance of the _Borghese
+Chapel_, built by Flaminio Ponzio for Paul V. in 1608, gorgeous with
+precious marbles and alabasters. Over its altar is preserved one of the
+pictures attributed to St. Luke (and announced to be such in a papal
+bull attached to the walls!), much revered from the belief that it
+stayed the plague which decimated the city during the reign of Pelagius
+II., and that (after its intercession had been sought by a procession by
+order of Innocent VIII.) it brought about the overthrow of the Moorish
+dominion in Spain.
+
+     "On conserve à Sainte Marie Majeure une des images de la Madonne
+     peintes par St. Luc, et plusieurs fois on a trouvé les anges
+     chantant les litanies autour de ce tableau."--_Stendhal._
+
+     The "Scheme of decorations in this gorgeous chapel is so
+     remarkable, as testifying to the development which the theological
+     idea of the Virgin, as the Sposa or personified Church, had
+     attained in the time of Paul V.--the same pope who in 1615
+     promulgated the famous bull relative to the Immaculate
+     Conception"--that the insertion of the whole passage of Mrs.
+     Jameson on this subject will not be considered too much.
+
+     "First, and elevated above all, we have the 'Madonna della
+     Concezione,' 'Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception,' in a glory of
+     light, sustained and surrounded by angels, having the crescent
+     under her feet, according to the approved treatment. Beneath, round
+     the dome, we read in conspicuous letters the text from the
+     Revelation:--SIGNUM. MAGNUM. APPARAVIT. IN. COELO. MULIER.
+     AMICTA. SOLE. ET. LUNA. SUB. PEDIBUS. EJUS. ET. IN. CAPITE. EJUS.
+     CORONA. STELLARUM. DUODECIM. Lower down is a second inscription
+     expressing the dedication. MARIÆ. CHRISTI. MATRI. SEMPER. VIRGINI.
+     PAULUS. QUINTUS. P.M. The decorations beneath the cornice consist
+     of eighteen large frescoes, and six statues in marble, above life
+     size. We have the subjects arranged in the following order:--
+
+     "1. The four great prophets, Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel, and Daniel,
+     in their usual place in the four pendatives of the dome.
+
+     "2. Two large frescoes. In the first the Vision of St. Gregory
+     Thaumaturgus, and Heretics bitten by Serpents. In the second, St.
+     John Damascene and S. Ildefonso miraculously rewarded for defending
+     the majesty of the Virgin.
+
+     "3. A large fresco, representing the four Doctors of the Church who
+     had especially written in honour of the Virgin: viz., Irenæus and
+     Cyprian, Ignatius and Theophilus, grouped two and two.
+
+     "4. St. Luke, who painted the Virgin, and whose gospel contains the
+     best account of her.
+
+     "5. As spiritual conquerors in the name of the Virgin, St. Dominic
+     and St. Francis, each attended by two companions of his Order.
+
+     "6. As military conquerors in the name of the Virgin, the Emperor
+     Heraclius, and Narses, the general against the Arians.
+
+     "7. A group of three female figures, representing the three famous
+     saintly princesses, who in marriage preserved their virginity,
+     Pulcheria, Edeltruda (our famous Queen Ethelreda), and Cunegunda.
+
+     "8. A group of three learned Bishops, who had especially defended
+     the immaculate purity of the Virgin, St. Cyril, St. Anselm, and St.
+     Denis (?).
+
+     "9. The miserable ends of those who were opposed to the honour of
+     the Virgin. 1. The death of Julian the Apostate, very oddly
+     represented; he lies on an altar, transfixed by an arrow, as a
+     victim; St. Mercurius in the air. 2. The death of Leo IV., who
+     destroyed the effigies of the Virgin. 3. The death of Constantine
+     IV., also a famous iconoclast.
+
+     "The statues which are placed in niches are--
+
+     "1--2. St. Joseph, as the nominal husband, and St. John the
+     Evangelist, as the nominal son, of the Virgin; the latter, also, as
+     prophet and poet, with reference to the passage in the Revelation,
+     xii. i.
+
+     "3--4. Aaron, as priestly ancestor (because his wand blossomed),
+     and David, as kingly ancestor, of the Virgin.
+
+     "5--6. St. Dionysius the Areopagite, who was present at the death
+     of the Virgin, and St. Bernard, who composed the famous 'Salve
+     Regina' in her honour.
+
+     "Such is this grand systematic scheme of decoration, which, to
+     those who regard it cursorily, is merely a sumptuous confusion of
+     colours and forms, or at best a 'fine example of the Guido school
+     and Bernini.' It is altogether a very complete and magnificent
+     specimen of the prevalent style of art, and a very comprehensive
+     and suggestive expression of the prevalent tendency of thought in
+     the Roman Catholic Church from the beginning of the seventeenth
+     century. In no description of this chapel have I seen the names and
+     subjects accurately given: the style of art belongs to the
+     _decadence_, and the taste being worse than questionable, the
+     prevailing _doctrinal_ idea has been neglected, or never
+     understood."--_Legends of the Madonna_, lxxi.
+
+On the right is the tomb of Clement VIII. (1592--1605), the Florentine
+Ippolito Aldobrandini, the builder of the new palace of the Vatican, and
+the cruel torturer and executioner of the Cenci. He is represented in
+the act of benediction. The bas-reliefs on his monument commemorate the
+principal events of his reign,--the conclusion of peace between France
+and Spain, and the taking of Ferrara, which he seized from the heirs of
+Alphonso II.
+
+On the left is the tomb of Paul V. (1605-1621), Camillo Borghese,--in
+whose reign St. Peter's was finished, as every traveller learns from the
+gigantic inscription over its portico,--who founded the great Borghese
+family, and left to his nephew, Cardinal Scipio Borghese, a fortune
+which enabled him to buy the Borghese Palace and to build the Borghese
+Villa.
+
+     "It is a truly herculean figure, with a grandly developed head,
+     while in his thick neck, pride, violence, and sensuality seem to be
+     united. He is the first pope who wore the beard of a cavalier, like
+     that of Henry IV., which recalls the Thirty-years' War, which he
+     lived through; as far as the battle of the White Mountain. In this
+     round, domineering, pride-swollen countenance, appears the
+     violent, imperious spirit of Paul, which aimed at an absolute
+     power. Who does not remember his famous quarrel with Venice, and
+     the rôle which his far superior adversary Paolo Sarpi played with
+     such invincible courage? The bas-reliefs of his tomb represent the
+     reception given by the pope to the envoys of Congo and Japan, the
+     building of the citadel of Ferrara, the sending of auxiliary troops
+     to Hungary to the assistance of Rudolph II., and the canonization
+     of Sta. Francesca Romana and S. Carlo Borromeo."--_Gregorovius._
+
+The frescoes in the cupola are by _Cigoli_; those around the altar by
+the Cav. D'Arpino; those above the tombs and on the arches by _Guido_,
+except the Madonna, which is by _Lanfranco_. The late beloved Princess
+Borghese, _née_ Lady Gwendoline Talbot, was buried in front of the
+altar, all Rome following her to the grave.
+
+     The funeral of Princess Borghese proved the feeling with which she
+     was regarded. Her body lay upon a car which was drawn by forty
+     young Romans, and was followed by all the poor of Rome, the
+     procession swelling like a river in every street and piazza it
+     passed through, while from all the windows as it passed flowers
+     were showered down. In funeral ceremonies of great personages at
+     Rome an ancient custom is observed by which, when the body is
+     lowered into the grave, a chamberlain, coming out to the church
+     door, announces to the coachman, who is waiting with the family
+     carriage, that his master or mistress has no longer need of his
+     services; and the coachman thereupon breaks his staff of office and
+     drives mournfully away. When this formality was fulfilled at the
+     funeral of Princess Borghese, the whole of the vast crowd waiting
+     outside the basilica broke into tears and sobs, and kneeling by a
+     common impulse, prayed aloud for the soul of their benefactress.
+
+The chapel has been lately the scene of a miraculous story, with
+reference to a visionary appearance of the Princess Borghese, which has
+obtained great credit among the people, by whom she is already looked
+upon as a saint.
+
+The first chapel in the right aisle is that of the Patrizi family, and
+close by is the sepulchral stone of their noble ancestor, Giovanni
+Patricino, whose bones were found beneath the high altar, and deposited
+here in 1700. A little further is the chapel of the Santa Croce, with
+ten porphyry columns. Then comes the _Chapel of the Holy Sacrament_,
+built by Fontana for Sixtus V. while still Cardinal of Montalto. Gregory
+XIII., who was then on the throne, visited this gorgeous chapel when it
+was nearly completed, and immediately decided that one who could build
+such a splendid temple was sufficiently rich, and suppressed the
+cardinal's pension. Fontana advanced a thousand scudi for the completion
+of the work, and had the delicacy never to allow the cardinal to imagine
+that he was indebted to him. The chapel, restored 1870, is adorned with
+statues by Giobattista Pozzo, Cesare Nebbia, and others. Under the altar
+is a presepio--one of the best works of Bernini, and opposite to it, in
+the confession, a beautiful statue of S. Gaetano (founder of the
+Theatines, who died 1547[276]), with two little children. On the right
+is the splendid tomb of Pius V., Michaele Ghislieri (1566--72), the
+barefooted, bareheaded Dominican monk of Sta. Sabina, who in his short
+six years' reign beheld amongst other events the victory of Lepanto, the
+fall of the Huguenots in France, and the massacre of St. Bartholomew,
+events which were celebrated at Rome with _fêtes_ and thanksgivings. The
+figure of the pope, a monk wasted to a skeleton (by Leonardo de
+Sarzana), sits in the central niche, between statues of St. Dominic and
+St. Peter Martyr. A number of bas-reliefs by different sculptors
+represent the events of his life. Some are by the Flemish artists
+Nicolas d'Arras and Egidius.
+
+On the left, is the tomb of Sixtus V. (1585-90), Felice Perretti, who
+as a boy kept his father's pigs at Montalto; who as a young man was a
+Franciscan monk preaching in the Apostoli, and attracting crowds by his
+eloquence; and who then rose to be bishop of Fermo, soon after to be
+cardinal, and was lastly raised to the papal throne, which he occupied
+only five years, a time which sufficed for the prince of the Church who
+loved building the most, to renew Rome entirely.
+
+     "If anything can still the spectator to silence, and awaken him to
+     great recollections, it is the monument of this astonishing man,
+     who, as child, herded swine, and as an old man commanded people and
+     kings, and who filled Rome with so many works, that from every side
+     his name, like an echo, rings in the traveller's ear. We never
+     cease to be amazed at the wonderful luck which raised Napoleon from
+     the dust to the throne of the world, as if it were a romance or a
+     fairy story. But if in the history of kings these astonishing
+     changes are extraordinary accidents, they seem quite natural in the
+     history of the popes, they belong to the very essence of
+     Christendom, which does not appeal to the person, but to the
+     spirit; and while the one history is full of ordinary men, who,
+     without the prerogative of their crown, would have sunk into
+     eternal oblivion, the other is rich in great men, who, placed in a
+     different sphere, would have been equally worthy of
+     renown."--_Gregorovius._
+
+In a little chapel on the left of the entrance of this--which is as it
+were a transept of the church--is a fine picture of St. Jerome by
+_Spagnuoletto_, and in the chapel opposite a sarcophagus of two early
+Christian consuls, richly wrought in the Roman imperial style, but with
+Christian subjects,--Daniel in the den of lions, Zaccheus in the
+sycamore-tree, Martha at the raising of Lazarus, &c.
+
+At the east end of the right aisle, near the door, is perhaps the finest
+gothic monument in Rome,--the tomb of Cardinal Gonsalvi, bishop of
+Albano, _c._ 1299.
+
+     "A recumbent statue, in pontifical vestments, rests on a
+     sarcophagus, and two angels draw aside curtains as if to show us
+     the dead; in the background is a mosaic of Mary enthroned, with
+     the Child, the apostle Matthias, St. Jerome, and a smaller kneeling
+     figure of Gonsalvi, in pontifical robes; at the apex is a
+     tabernacle with cusped arch, and below the epitaph 'Hoc opus fecit
+     Joannes Magister Cosmæ civis Romanus,' the artist's record of
+     himself. In the hands of St. Matthias and St. Jerome are scrolls;
+     on that held by the apostle, the words, 'Me tenet ara prior'; on
+     St. Jerome's,'Recubo presepis ad antrum', these epigraphs
+     confirming the tradition that the bodies of St. Matthias and St.
+     Jerome repose in this church, while indicating the sites of their
+     tombs. Popular regards have distinguished this tomb; no doubt in
+     intended honour to the Blessed Virgin, lamps are kept ever burning,
+     and vases of flowers ranged, before her mosaic image."--_Hemans'
+     Mediæval Christian Art._
+
+At the west end of the right aisle is the entrance of the _Baptistery_,
+which has a vast porphyry vase as a font. Hence we reach the _Sacristy_,
+in the inner chamber of which are some exceedingly beautiful bas-reliefs
+by _Mino da Fiesole_.
+
+One of the greatest of the Christmas ceremonies is the procession at 5
+A.M., in honour of the great relic of the church--the Santa
+Culla--_i.e._, the cradle in which our Saviour was carried into Egypt,
+not, as is frequently imagined, the manger, which is allowed to have
+been of stone, and of which a single stone only is supposed to have
+found its way to Rome, and to be preserved in the altar of the Blessed
+Sacrament. The "Santa Culla" is preserved in a magnificent reliquary,
+six feet high, adorned with bas-reliefs and statuettes in silver. On the
+afternoon of Christmas eve the public can visit the relic at an altar in
+a little chapel near the sacristy. On the afternoon of Christmas Day it
+is also exposed, but upon the high altar, where it is less easily seen.
+
+     "Le Seigneur Jésus a voulu naître dans une étable; mais les hommes
+     ont apporté précieusement le petit berceau qui a reçu le salut du
+     monde, dans la reine des cités, et ils l'ont enchâssé dans l'or.
+
+     "C'est bien ici que nous devons accourir avec joie et redire ce
+     chant triomphant de l'Église: _Adeste, fideles, læti triumphantes;
+     venite, venite in Bethleem_."--_Une Chrétienne à Rome._
+
+Among the many other relics preserved here are two little bags of the
+brains of St. Thomas à Becket.
+
+It was in this church that Pope St. Martin I. was celebrating mass in
+the seventh century, when a guard sent by the Exarch Olympius appeared
+on the threshold with orders to seize and put him to death. At the sight
+of the pontiff the soldier was stricken with blindness, a miracle which
+led to the conversion of Olympius and many other persons.
+
+Platina, the historian of the popes, was buried here, with the epitaph:
+"Quisquis es, si pius, Platynam et sua ne vexes, anguste jacent et soli
+volunt esse."
+
+Sta. Maria Maggiore was the scene of the seizure of Hildebrand by
+Cencius:
+
+     "On Christmas Eve, 1075, the city of Rome was visited by a dreadful
+     tempest. Darkness brooded over the land, and the trembling
+     spectators believed that the day of final judgment was about to
+     dawn. In this war of the elements, however, two processions were
+     seen advancing to the Church of Sta. Maria Maggiore. At the head of
+     one was the aged Hildebrand, conducting a few priests to worship at
+     the shrine of the Virgo Deipara. The other was preceded by Cencius,
+     a Roman noble. At each pause in the tempest might be heard the
+     hallelujahs of the worshippers, or the voice of the pontiff,
+     pouring out benedictions on the little flock which knelt before
+     him--when Cencius grasped his person, and some yet more daring
+     ruffian inflicted a wound on his forehead. Bound with cords,
+     stripped of his sacred vestments, beaten, and subjected to the
+     basest indignities, the venerable minister of Christ was carried to
+     a fortified mansion within the walls of the city, again to be
+     removed at daybreak to exile or death. Women were there, with
+     women's sympathy and kindly offices, but they were rudely put
+     aside; and a drawn sword was already aimed at the pontiff's bosom,
+     when the cries of a fierce multitude, threatening to burn or batter
+     down the house, arrested the aim of the assassin. An arrow,
+     discharged from below, reached and slew him. The walls rocked
+     beneath the strokes of the maddened populace, and Cencius, falling
+     at his prisoner's feet, became himself a suppliant for pardon and
+     for life.... In profound silence, and with undisturbed serenity,
+     Hildebrand had thus far submitted to these atrocious indignities.
+     The occasional raising of his eyes towards heaven alone indicated
+     his consciousness of them. But to the supplication of his prostrate
+     enemy he returned an instant and a calm assurance of forgiveness.
+     He rescued Cencius from the exasperated besiegers, dismissed him in
+     safety and in peace, and returned, amidst the acclamations of the
+     whole Roman people, to complete the interrupted solemnities of Sta.
+     Maria Maggiore."--_Stephens' Lectures on Eccles. Hist._
+
+Leaving the church by the door behind the tribune, we find ourselves at
+the top of the steep slope of the Esquiline and in front of an _Obelisk_
+erected here by Fontana for Sixtus V.,--brought from Egypt by Claudius,
+and one of two which were used to guard the entrance to the mausoleum of
+Augustus. The inscriptions on three of its sides are worth
+notice:--"Christi Dei in æternum viventis cunabula lætissime colo, qui
+mortui sepulchro Augusti tristis serviebam."--"Quem Augustus de vergine
+nasciturum vivens adoravit, sed deinceps dominum dici noluit,
+adoro."--"Christus per invictam crucem populo pacem præbeat, qui Augusti
+pace in præsepe nasci voluit."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+THE BASILICAS OF THE LATERAN, SANTA CROCE, AND S. LORENZO.
+
+     Via S. Giovanni--The Obelisk and Baptistery--Basilica and
+     Cloisters--Mosaic of the Triclinium--Santa Scala--Palace of the
+     Lateran--Villa Massimo Arsole--SS. Pietro e Marcellino--Villa
+     Wolkonski--(Porta Furba--Tombs of the Via Latina--Basilica of S.
+     Stefano)--Santa Croce in Gerusalemme--Amphitheatrum
+     Castrense--Porta Maggiore--(Tomb of Sta. Helena--Torre dei
+     Schiavi--Cervaletto--Cerbara)--Porta and Basilica of S.
+     Lorenzo--Catacomb of S. Hippolytus.
+
+
+Behind the Coliseum the Via S. Giovanni ascends the slope of the
+Esquiline. In mediæval times this road was always avoided by the popes,
+on account (as most authorities state) of the scandal attaching to the
+more than doubtful legend of Joan, the famous papessa, who is said to
+have horrified her attendants by giving birth to a child on this spot,
+during a procession from the Lateran, and to have died of shame and
+terror immediately afterwards. Joan is stated to have been educated at
+Athens, to have skilfully obtained her election to the papal throne,
+disguised as a man, between the reign of Leo IV. and that of Benedict
+III. (855), and to have taken the name of John VIII. In the cathedral of
+Siena the heads of all the popes in terra-cotta (down to Alexander
+III.) decorate the frieze above the arches of the nave, and among them
+was that of Pope Joan, inscribed "Johannes VIII. Femina de Anglia," till
+1600, when it was changed into a head of Pope Zacharias by the Grand
+Duke, at the request of Pope Clement VIII.
+
+On the left of this street is S. Clemente (described Ch. VII.). On the
+right, a long wall flooded by a cascade of Banksia roses in spring, and
+a villa inlaid with terra-cotta ornaments, are those of the favourite
+residence of the well-known Marchese Campana, the learned archæologist
+of Etruria, and the chief benefactor of the Etruscan museum at the
+Vatican, cruelly imprisoned and exiled by the papal government in 1858,
+upon an accusation of having tampered with the revenues of Monte di
+Pietà.
+
+Beyond the turn of the road leading to S. Stefano Rotondo (Ch. VII.),
+bas-reliefs of Our Saviour's Head (from the Acheirotopeton in the Sancta
+Sanctorum) between two candelabra--upon the different buildings,
+announce the property of the Lateran chapter.
+
+The _Piazza di San Giovanni_ is surrounded by a remarkable group of
+buildings. In front are the Baptistery and Basilica of the Lateran. On
+the right is a Hospital for women, capable of containing 600 patients;
+on the left, beyond the modern palace, are seen the buildings which
+enclose the Santa Scala, and some broken arches of the Aqua Marcia. In
+the centre of the piazza is the _Obelisk of the Lateran_, 150 feet high,
+the oldest object in Rome, being referred by translators of
+hieroglyphics to the year 1740 B.C., when it was raised in memory of the
+Pharaoh Thothmes IV. It was brought, from the temple of the Sun at
+Heliopolis, to Alexandria by Constantine, and removed thence by his son
+Constantius to Rome, where it was used, together with the obelisk now in
+the Piazza del Popolo, to ornament the Circus Maximus. Hence it was
+moved to its present site in 1588, by Fontana, for Sixtus V. The obelisk
+was then broken into three pieces, and in order to piece them together,
+some part had to be cut off, but it is still the tallest in the city.
+One of the inscriptions on the basement is false, as it narrates that
+Constantine received at the Lateran the baptism which he did not receive
+till he was dying at Nicomedia.
+
+An octagon building of mean and miserable exterior is that of the
+_Baptistery of the Lateran_, sometimes called S. Giovanni in Fonte,
+built, not by Constantine, to whom it is falsely ascribed, but by Sixtus
+III. (430-40). Of his time are the two porphyry columns at the entrance
+on the side nearest the church, and the eight which form a colonnade
+round the interior, supporting a cornice from which rise the eight small
+columns of white marble, which sustain the dome. In the centre is the
+font of green basalt in which Rienzi bathed on the night of August 1,
+1347, before his public appearance as a knight, when he summoned Clement
+VI. and other sovereigns of Europe to appear before him for judgment.
+The cupola is decorated with scenes from the life of John the Baptist by
+_Andrea Sacchi_. On the walls are frescoes pourtraying the life of
+Constantine by _Gimignano_, _Carlo Maratta_, and _Andrea Camassei_.
+
+On the right is the _Chapel of St. John the Baptist_, built by Pope
+Hilary (461-67). Between two serpentine columns is a figure of St. John
+Baptist by _L. Valadico_ after Donatello.
+
+On the left is the _Chapel of St. John the Evangelist_, also built by
+Hilary, who presented its bronze doors (said to have once belonged to
+the Baths of Caracalla) in remembrance of his delivery from the fury of
+fanatical monks at the Second Council of Ephesus, where he appeared as
+the legate of Leo I.,--a fact commemorated by the inscription:
+"Liberatori suo B. Joanni Evangelistæ Hilarius Episcopus famulus
+Christi." The vault is covered with mosaics representing the Spotless
+Lamb in Paradise. Here is a statue of St. John by _Landini_.
+
+Close by is the entrance to the _Oratory of S. Venanzio_,[277] built in
+640 by John IV., and dedicated to St. Venantius, from a filial feeling
+to his father, who bore the same name. Nothing, however, remains of this
+time but the mosaics. Those in the apse represent the Saviour in the act
+of benediction with angels, and below him the Virgin (an aged woman) in
+adoration,[278] with St. Peter and St. John Baptist, St. Paul and St.
+John the Evangelist, St. Venantius and St. Domnus--and another figure
+unnamed, probably John IV., holding the model of a church. Outside the
+chancel arch are eight saints, with their names (Palmianus, Julius,
+Asterius, Anastasius, Maurus, Septimius, Antiochianus, Cajanus), the
+symbols of the evangelists, and the cities Bethlehem and Jerusalem; also
+the verses:--
+
+    "Martyribus Christi Domini pia vota Johannes
+    Reddidit antistes sanctificante Deo.
+    Ac sacri fontis simile fulgente metallo,
+    Providus instanter hoc copulavit opus:
+    Quo quisque gradiens et Christum pronus adorans,
+    Effusasque preces impetrat ille suas."
+
+The next chapel, called the _Capella Borgia_, and used as the
+burial-place of that family, was once an open portico, but this
+character was destroyed by the building up of the intercolumniations. On
+its façade are a number of fragments of ancient friezes, &c. Over the
+inner door is a bas-relief of the Crucifixion, of 1494.
+
+The piteous modernization of this ancient group of chapels is chiefly
+due to the folly of Urban VIII. The baptistery is used on Easter Eve for
+the ceremony of adult baptism, the recipients being called Jews.
+
+The _Lateran_ derives its name from a rich patrician family, whose
+estates were confiscated by Nero, when their head, Plautius Lateranus,
+was put to death for taking part in the conspiracy of Piso.[279] It
+afterwards became an imperial residence, and a portion of it being given
+by Maximianus to his daughter Fausta, second wife of Constantine,
+received the name of "Domus Faustæ." It was this which was given by
+Constantine to Pope Melchiades in 312,--a donation which was confirmed
+to St. Sylvester, in whose reign the first basilica was built here, and
+consecrated on November 9, 324, Constantine having laboured with his own
+hands at the work. This basilica was overthrown by an earthquake in 896,
+but was rebuilt by Sergius III. (904--11), being then dedicated to St.
+John the Baptist. This second basilica, whose glories are alluded to by
+Dante,--
+
+           ----"Quando Laterano
+    Alle cose mortale andò di sopra."
+
+    _Paradiso_, xxxi.
+
+was of the greatest interest, but was almost entirely destroyed by fire
+in 1308. It was rebuilt, only to be again burnt down in 1360, when it
+remained for four years in utter ruin, in which state it was seen and
+mourned over by Petrarch. The fourth restoration of the basilica was due
+to Urban V. (1362-70), but it has since undergone a series of
+mutilations and modernizations, which have deplorably injured it. The
+west front still retains the inscription "Sacrosancta Lateranensis
+ecclesia, Omnium urbis et orbis Ecclesiarum Mater et Caput;" the Chapter
+of the Lateran still takes precedence even over that of St. Peter's; and
+every newly elected pope comes hither for his coronation.
+
+     "St. J. Lateran est regardé comme le siége du patriarchal romain. À
+     St. Pierre le pape est souverain pontife. À St. J. Lateran il est
+     évêque de Rome. Quand le pape est élu, il vient à St. J. Lateran
+     prendre possession de son siége comme évêque de Rome."--_A. Du
+     Pays._
+
+The west end of the basilica is in part a remnant of the building of the
+tenth century, and has two quaint towers (rebuilt by Sixtus IV.) at the
+end of the transept, and a rich frieze of terra-cotta. The church is
+entered from the transept by a portico, ending in a gloomy chapel which
+contains a statue of Henry IV., by _Niccolo Cordieri_. The
+_transept_--rich in colour from its basement of varied marbles, and its
+upper frescoes of the legendary history of Constantine--is by far the
+finest part of the basilica, which, as a whole, is infinitely inferior
+to Sta. Maria Maggiore. The nave, consisting of five aisles, is of grand
+proportions, but has been hideously modernized under _Borromini_, who
+has enclosed all its ancient columns, except two near the tribune, in
+tawdry plaster piers, in front of which are huge statues of the
+apostles; the roof is gilt and gaudy, the tabernacle ugly and
+ill-proportioned,--only the ancient pavement of opus-alexandrinum is
+fine. Confessionals for different languages are placed here as in St.
+Peter's. The _Tabernacle_ was erected by Urban V. in the fourteenth
+century. Four granite columns support a gothic canopy, decorated at its
+angles with canopied statuettes. Between these, on either side, are
+three much restored frescoes by _Berni da Siena_, those in central
+panels representing the Annunciation, the Crucifixion, the Coronation of
+the Virgin, and the Saviour as a shepherd (very beautifully treated)
+feeding his flock with corn. The skulls of SS. Peter and Paul are said
+to be preserved here. The altar encloses the greater part of the famous
+wooden table, saved at great risk of life from the conflagration of
+1308, upon which St. Peter is supposed to have celebrated mass in the
+house of Pudens.[280] The steps of the altar (at the top of which the
+pope is installed) have an allegorical enamelled border with emblems of
+an asp, a dragon, a lion, and basilisk, in allusion to Psalm xci.
+
+In the confession, in front of the altar, is the bronze tomb of Martin
+V., Oddone Colonna (1417--24), the wise and just pope who was elected at
+the Council of Constance to put an end to the schism which had long
+divided the papacy, and which had almost reduced the capital of the
+Church to ruins. A bronze slab bears his figure, in low-relief, and is a
+fine work of _Antonio Filarete_, author of the bronze doors at St.
+Peter's. It bears the appropriate surname which was given to this
+justly-loved pope--"Temporum suorum felicitas."
+
+The tribune is of the time of Nicholas IV. (1287--1292). Above the arch
+is a grand mosaic head of the Saviour, attributed to the time of
+Constantine, and evidently of the fourth century,--of great interest on
+this spot, as commemorating the vision of the Redeemer, who is said to
+have appeared here on the day of the consecration of the church by
+Sylvester and Constantine, looking down upon the people, and solemnly
+hallowing the work with his visible presence. The head, which is grand
+and sad in expression, is surrounded by six-winged seraphim. Below is an
+ornamented cross, above which hovers a dove--from whose beak, running
+down the cross, flow the waters which supply the four rivers of
+Paradise. The disciples, as harts (panting for the water-brooks) and
+sheep, flock to drink of the waters of life. In the distance is the New
+Jerusalem, within which the Phoenix, the bird of eternity, is seated
+upon the tree of Life, guarded by an angel with a two-edged sword.
+Beside the cross stand, on the left, the Virgin with her hand resting on
+the head of the kneeling pope, Nicholas IV.; St. Peter with a scroll
+inscribed, "Tu es Christus filius Dei vivi;" St. Paul with a scroll
+inscribed, "Salvatorem expectamus Dominum Jesum." On the right St. John
+the Baptist, St. John the Evangelist, St. Andrew (all with their names).
+Between the first and second of these figures are others, on a smaller
+scale, of St. Francis and St. Anthony of Padua. All these persons are
+represented as walking in a flowery Paradise, in which the souls of the
+blessed are besporting, and in front of which flows the Jordan. Below,
+between the windows, are figures of prophets, and (very small) of two
+Franciscans, who were the artists of the lower portion of the mosaic, as
+is shown by the inscriptions, "Jacobus Turriti, pictor, hoc opus
+fecit;"--"Fra Jacobus de Camerino socius magistri."
+
+Behind the tribune, is all that remains internally of the architecture
+of the tenth century, in the vaulted passage called "Portico Leonino,"
+from its founder, Leo I. It is supported on low marble and granite
+columns with Ionic and Corinthian capitals. Here are collected a variety
+of relics of the ancient basilica. On either side of the entrance are
+mosaic tablets, which relate to the building of the church. Then, on the
+right, is a curious kneeling statue of Pope Nicholas IV., Masci
+(1287--92). On the left, in the centre, is an altar, above which is an
+ancient crucifix, and on either side tenth century statues of SS. Peter
+and Paul.
+
+On the right is the entrance to the sacristy (whose inner bronze doors
+date from 1196), which contains an Annunciation by _Sebastian del
+Piombo_, and a sketch by _Raphael_ for the Madonna, called "Della Casa
+d'Alba," now at St. Petersburg; also an ancient bas-relief, which
+represents the old and humble basilica of Pope Sergius. On the left, at
+the end of the passage, is a very handsome cinquecento ciborium, and
+near it the "Tabula Magna Lateranensis," containing the list of relics
+belonging to the church.
+
+Near this, opening from the transept, is the _Capella del Coro_, with
+handsome wooden stallwork. It contains a portrait of Martin V., by
+_Scipione Gaetani_.
+
+The altar of the Sacrament, which closes the transept, has four fluted
+bronze columns, said to have been brought from Jerusalem by Titus, and
+to be hollow and filled with earth from Palestine.[281] The last chapel
+in the left aisle is the _Corsini Chapel_, erected in 1729 in honour of
+St. Andrea Corsini, from designs of Alessandro Galilei. It is in the
+form of a Greek cross, and ranks next to the Borghese Chapel in the
+richness of its marble decoration. The mosaic altar-piece, representing
+S. Andrea Corsini, is a copy from _Guido_. The founder of the chapel,
+Clement XII., Lorenzo Corsini (1730--40), is buried in a splendid
+porphyry sarcophagus which he plundered from the Pantheon. Above it is a
+bronze statue of the pope.[282] Opposite is the tomb of Cardinal Neri
+Corsini, with a number of statues of the Bernini school.
+
+Beneath the chapel is a vault lined with sarcophagi of the Corsini. Its
+altar is surmounted by a magnificent Pietà--in whose beautiful and
+impressive figures it is difficult to recognise a work of the usually
+coarse and theatrical artist _Bernini_.
+
+     Of the many tombs of mediæval popes which formerly existed in this
+     basilica,[283] none remain, except the memorial slab and epitaph of
+     Sylvester II., Gerbert (999--1003). This pope is said (by the
+     chronicler Martin Polonus de Corenza) to have been a kind of
+     magician, who obtained first the archbishopric of Rheims, then that
+     of Ravenna, and then the papacy, by the aid of the devil, to whom,
+     in return, he promised to belong after death. When he ascended the
+     throne, he asked the devil how long he could reign, and the devil,
+     as is his custom, answered by a double-entendre, "If you never
+     enter Jerusalem, you will reign a long time." He occupied the
+     throne for four years, one month, and ten days, when, one day, as
+     he was officiating in the basilica of Sta. Croce in Gerusalemme, he
+     saw that he had passed the fatal threshold, and that his death was
+     impending. Overwhelmed with repentance, he confessed his
+     backslidings before the people, and exhorted them to lay aside
+     pride, to resist the temptations of the devil, and to lead a good
+     life. After this he begged of his attendants to cut his body in
+     pieces after he was dead, as he deserved, and to place it on a
+     common cart, and bury it wherever the horses stopped of their own
+     accord. Then was manifested the will of the Divine Providence, that
+     repentant sinners should learn that their God preserves for them a
+     place of pardon even in this life,--for the horses went of their
+     own accord to St. John Lateran, where he was buried. "Since then,"
+     says Platina, "the rattling of his bones, and the sweat, or rather
+     the damp, with which his tomb becomes covered, has always been the
+     infallible sign and forerunner of the death of a pope"!
+
+Against the second pillar of the right aisle, counting from the west
+door, is a very interesting fresco of _Giotto_, originally one of many
+paintings executed by him for the loggia of the adjoining papal palace,
+whence the benediction and "plenary indulgence" were given in the
+jubilee year. It represents Boniface VIII. (Benedetto Gaetani,
+1294--1303), the founder of the jubilee, between two priests.
+
+     "On y voit Boniface annonçant au peuple le jubilé. Le portrait du
+     pape doit être ressemblant. J'ai reconnu dans cette physiognomie,
+     où il y a plus de finesse que de force, la statue que j'avais vue
+     couchée sur le tombeau de ce pape, dans les souterrains du
+     Vatican."--_Ampère, Voyage Dantesque._
+
+Opening from this aisle are several chapels. The second is that of the
+newly established and rich family of Torlonia, which contains a marble
+Pietà, by Tenerani, and some handsome modern monuments. The third is
+that of the Massimi (designed by Giacomo della Porta), which has, as an
+altar-piece, the Crucifixion by _Sermoneta_. Beyond this, in the right
+aisle, are several remarkable tombs of cardinals, among which is the
+tomb of Cardinal Guissano, who died in 1287. The painters Cav. d'Arpino
+and Andrea Sacchi are buried in this church.
+
+Entered from the last chapel in the left aisle (by a door which the
+sacristan will open) is the beautiful twelfth century _Cloister of the
+Monastery_, surrounded by low arches supported on exquisite inlaid and
+twisted columns, above which is a lovely frieze of coloured marbles. The
+court thus enclosed is a garden of roses; in the centre is a well
+(adorned with crosses) of the tenth century, called the "Well of the
+Woman of Samaria." In the cloister is a collection of architectural and
+traditional relics, including a beautiful old white marble throne,
+inlaid with mosaics, a candelabrum resting on a lion, and several other
+exquisitely wrought details from the old basilica; also a porphyry slab
+upon which the soldiers are said to have cast lots for the seamless
+robe; columns which were rent by the earthquake of the Crucifixion; a
+slab, resting on pillars, shown as a measure of the height of Our
+Saviour,[284] and a smaller slab, also on pillars, of which it is said
+that it was once an altar, at which the officiating priest doubted of
+the Real Presence, when the wafer fell from his hand through the stone,
+leaving a round hole which still remains.
+
+Five General Councils have been held at the Lateran, viz.:--
+
+     I.--March 19, 1123, under Calixtus II., with regard to the
+     Investiture.
+
+     II.--April 18, 1139, under Innocent II., to condemn the doctrines
+     of Arnold of Brescia and Peter de Bruys, and to oppose the
+     anti-pope Anacletus II.
+
+     III.--March 5, 1179, under Alexander III., to condemn the
+     doctrines of Waldenses and Albigenses, and to end the schism
+     caused by Frederick Barbarossa.
+
+     IV.--Nov. 11, 1215, at which 400 bishops assembled under Innocent
+     III., to condemn the Albigenses, and the heresies of the Abbot
+     Joachim.
+
+     V.--May 3, 1512, under Julius II. and Leo X., at which the
+     Pragmatic Sanction was abolished, and a Concordat concluded between
+     the Pope and Francis I. for the destruction of the liberties of the
+     Gallican Church.
+
+It is in the basilica of the Lateran that the Church places the first
+meeting between St. Francis and St Dominic.
+
+     "Une nuit, pendant que Dominique dormait, il lui sembla voir
+     Jésus-Christ se préparant à exterminer les superbes, les
+     voluptueux, les avares, lorsque tout-à-coup la Vierge l'apaisa en
+     lui présentant deux hommes: l'un d'eux lui-même; quant à l'autre,
+     il ne le connaissait pas; mais le lendemain, la première personne
+     qu'il aperçut, en entrant au Latran, fut l'inconnu qui lui était
+     apparu en songe. Il était couvert de haillons et priait avec
+     ferveur. Dominique se précipita dans ses bras, et l'embrassant avec
+     effusion: 'Tu es mon compagnon,' lui dit-il; 'nous courons la même
+     carrière, demeurons ensemble, et aucun ennemi ne prévaudra contre
+     nous.' Et, à partir de ce moment, dit la légende, ils n'eurent plus
+     qu'un coeur et qu'une âme dans le Seigneur. Ce pauvre, ce
+     mendiant, était saint François d'Assise."--_Gournerie, Rome
+     Chrétienne._
+
+Issuing from the west door of the basilica, we find ourselves in a wide
+portico, one of whose five doors is a Porta Santa. At the end, is
+appropriately placed an ancient marble statue of Constantine, who is in
+the dress of a Roman warrior, bearing the _labarum_, or standard of the
+cross, which is here represented as a lance surmounted by the monogram
+of Christ. From this portico we look down upon one of the most beautiful
+and characteristic views in Rome. On one side are the Alban Hills, blue
+in morning, or purple in evening light, sprinkled with white villages of
+historic interest--Albano, Rocca di Papa, Marino, Frescati, Colonna; on
+the other side are the Sabine Mountains, tipped with snow; in the
+middle distance the long, golden-hued lines of aqueducts stretch away
+over the plain, till they are lost in the pink haze, and nearer still
+are the desolate basilica of Santa Croce, the fruit gardens of the Villa
+Wolkonski, interspersed with rugged fragments of massive brickwork, and
+the glorious old walls of the city itself. The road at our feet is the
+Via Appia Nuova, which leads to Naples, and which immediately passes
+through the modern gate of Rome, known as the Porta _San Giovanni_
+(built in the sixteenth century by Gregory XIII.). Nearer to us, on the
+right, is an ancient gateway, the finest on the Aurelian wall, bricked
+up by Ladislaus, king of Naples, in 1408. By this gate, known as the
+_Porta Asinaria_, from the family of the Asinarii, Belisarius entered
+Rome in 505, and Totila, through the treachery of the Isaurian Guard, in
+546. Here also, in 1084, Henry IV. entered Rome against Hildebrand with
+his anti-pope Guibert; and, a few years after, the name of the gate
+itself was changed to Porta Perusta, in consequence of the injuries it
+received from Robert Guiscard, who came to the rescue of the lawful
+pontiff.
+
+The broad open space which we see beneath the steps was the favourite
+walk of the mediæval popes.
+
+     "The splendid palace of the Lateran reflected the rays of the
+     evening sun, as Francis of Assisi with two or three of his
+     disciples approached it to obtain the papal sanction for the rules
+     of his new Order. A group of churchmen in sumptuous apparel were
+     traversing with slow and measured steps its lofty terrace, then
+     called 'the Mirror,' as if afraid to overtake him who preceded
+     them, in a dress studiously simple, and with a countenance wrapped
+     in earnest meditation. Unruffled by passion, and yet elate with
+     conscious power, that eagle eye, and those capacious brows,
+     announced him the lord of a dominion which might have satisfied the
+     pride of Diogenes, and the ambition of Alexander. Since the
+     Tugurium was built on the Capitoline, no greater monarch had ever
+     called the seven hills his own. But, in his pontificate, no era had
+     occurred more arduous than that in which Innocent III. saw the
+     mendicants of Assisi prostrate at his feet. The interruption was as
+     unwelcome as it was abrupt; as he gazed at the squalid dress and
+     faces of his suitors, and observed their bare and unwashed feet,
+     his lip curled with disdain, and sternly commanding them to
+     withdraw, he seemed again to retire from the outer world into some
+     of the deep recesses of that capacious mind. Francis and his
+     companions betook themselves to prayer; Innocent to his couch.
+     There (says the legend) he dreamed that a palm-tree sprouted up
+     from the ground beneath his feet, and, swiftly shooting up into the
+     heavens, cast her boughs on every side, a shelter from the heat,
+     and a refreshment to the weary. The vision of the night dictated
+     the policy of the morning, and assured Innocent that, under his
+     fostering care, the Franciscan palm would strike deep her roots,
+     and expand her foliage on every side, in the vineyard of the
+     Church."--_Stephens' St. Francis of Assisi._
+
+The western façade of the basilica, built by Alessandro Galilei in 1734,
+has a fine effect at a distance, but the statues of Christ and the
+apostles which line its parapet are too large for its proportions.
+
+_The ancient Palace of the Lateran_ was the residence of the popes for
+nearly 1000 years. Almost all the events affecting the private lives of
+a vast line of ecclesiastical sovereigns happened within its walls.
+Plundered in each successive invasion, stricken with malaria during the
+autumn months, and often partially burnt, it was finally destroyed by
+the great enemy of Roman antiquities, Sixtus V. Among the scenes which
+occurred within its walls, perhaps the most terrible was that when John
+X., the completer of the Lateran basilica, was invaded here by Marozia,
+who was beginning to seize the chief power in Rome, and who carried the
+pope off prisoner to St. Angelo, after he had seen his brother Peter
+murdered before his eyes in the hall of the pontifical palace.
+
+The only remnants preserved of this famous building are the private
+chapel of the popes, and the end wall of their dining-hall, known as the
+_Triclinium_, which contains a copy, erected by Benedict XIV., of the
+ancient mosaic of the time of Leo III. which formerly existed here, and
+the remains of which are preserved in the Vatican.
+
+     "In this mosaic, Hallam (Middle Ages) sees proof that the authority
+     of the Greek Emperor was not entirely abrogated at Rome till long
+     after the period of papal aggrandisement by Pepin and his son, but
+     he is warranted by no probabilities in concluding that Constantine
+     V., whose reign began A.D. 780, is intended by the emperor kneeling
+     with St. Peter or Pope Sylvester."--_Hemans' Ancient Christian
+     Art._
+
+Professor Bryce finds two paintings in which the theory of the mediæval
+empire is unmistakeably set forth; one of them in Rome, the other in
+Florence, (a fresco in the chapter-house of S. M. Novella).
+
+     "The first of these is the famous mosaic of the Lateran triclinium,
+     constructed by Pope Leo III., about A.D. 800, and an exact copy of
+     which, made by the order of Sixtus V., may still be seen over
+     against the facade of St. John Lateran. Originally meant to adorn
+     the state banqueting-hall of the popes, it is now placed in the
+     open air, in the finest situation in Rome, looking from the brow of
+     a hill across the green ridges of the Campagna to the olive groves
+     of Tivoli and the glistering crags and snow-capped summits of the
+     Umbrian and Sabine Apennine. It represents in the centre Christ
+     surrounded by the apostles, whom He is sending forth to preach the
+     gospel; one hand is extended to bless, the other holds a book with
+     the words 'Pax vobis.' Below and to the right Christ is depicted
+     again, and this time sitting: on His right hand kneels Pope
+     Sylvester, on His left the Emperor Constantine; to the one He gives
+     the keys of heaven and hell, to the other a banner surmounted by a
+     cross. In the group on the opposite, that is, on the left side of
+     the arch, we see the Apostle Peter seated, before whom in like
+     manner kneel Pope Leo III. and Charles the Emperor; the latter
+     wearing, like Constantine, his crown. Peter, himself grasping the
+     keys, gives to Leo the pallium of an archbishop, to Charles the
+     banner of the Christian army. The inscription is 'Beatus Petrus
+     dona vitam Leoni P. Pet victoriam Carulo regi dona;' while round
+     the arch is written, 'Gloria in excelsis Deo, et in terra pax
+     omnibus bonæ voluntatis.'
+
+     "The order and nature of the ideas here symbolized is sufficiently
+     clear. First comes the revelation of the gospel, and the divine
+     commission to gather all men into its fold. Next, the institution,
+     at the memorable era of Constantine's conversion, of the two powers
+     by which the Christian people is to be respectively taught and
+     governed. Thirdly, we are shown the permanent Vicar of God, the
+     apostle who keeps the keys of heaven and hell, re-establishing
+     these same powers on a new and firmer basis. The badge of
+     ecclesiastical supremacy he gives to Leo as the spiritual head of
+     the faithful on earth, the banner of the Church militant to
+     Charles, who is to maintain her cause against heretics and
+     infidels."--_J. Bryce_, _Holy Roman Empire_, ch. vii. pp. 117, 118,
+     3rd ed., 1871.
+
+In the building behind the Triclinium, attached to a convent of
+Passionist monks, and erected by Fontana for Sixtus V., is preserved
+_the Santa Scala_. This famous staircase, supposed to be that of the
+house of Pilate, ascended and descended by our Saviour, is said to have
+been brought from Jerusalem by Helena, mother of Constantine the Great,
+and has been regarded with especial reverence by the Roman Church for
+1500 years. In 897 it was injured and partially thrown down by an
+earthquake, but was re-erected in the old Lateran palace, whence it was
+removed to its present site on the demolition of that venerable
+building. Clement XII. caused the steps to be covered by a wooden
+casing, which has since been repeatedly worn out by the knees of
+ascending pilgrims. Apertures are left, through which the marble steps
+can be seen; two of them are said to be stained with the blood of the
+Saviour!
+
+At the foot of the stairs, within the atrium, are fine sculptures of
+_Giacometti_, representing the "Ecce Homo,"--and the "Kiss of Judas,"
+purchased and placed here by Pius IX.
+
+Between these statues the pilgrims kneel to commence the ascent of the
+Santa Scala. The effect of the staircase (especially on Fridays in Lent,
+and most of all on Good Friday), with the figures ascending on their
+knees in the dim light, and the dark vaulted ceiling covered with faded
+frescoes, is exceedingly picturesque.
+
+     "Reason may condemn, but feeling cannot resist the claim to
+     reverential sympathy in the spectacle daily presented by the Santa
+     Scala. Numerous indulgences have been granted by different popes to
+     those who ascend it with prayer at each step. Whilst kneeling upon
+     these stairs public penance used to be performed in the days of the
+     Church's more rigorous discipline; as the saintly matron Fabiola
+     there appeared a penitent before the public gaze, in sackcloth and
+     ashes, A.D. 390.... There is no day on which worshippers may not be
+     seen slowly ascending those stairs; but it is during Holy Week the
+     concourse is at its height; and on Good Friday I have seen this
+     structure completely covered by the multitude, like a swarm of bees
+     settling on flowers!"--_Hemans' Ancient Sacred Art._
+
+     "Brother Martin Luther went to accomplish the ascent of the Santa
+     Scala--the Holy Staircase--which once, they say, formed part of
+     Pilate's house. He slowly mounted step after step of the hard
+     stone, worn into hollows by the knees of penitents and pilgrims. An
+     indulgence for a thousand years--indulgence from penance--is
+     attached to this act of devotion. Patiently he crept half-way up
+     the staircase, when he suddenly stood erect, lifted his face
+     heavenward, and, in another moment, turned and walked slowly down
+     again.
+
+     "He said that, as he was toiling up, a voice as if from heaven,
+     seemed to whisper to him the old, well-known words, which had been
+     his battle-cry in so many a victorious combat,--'The just shall
+     live by faith.'
+
+     "He seemed awakened, as if from a nightmare, and restored to
+     himself. He dared not creep up another step; but, rising from his
+     knees, he stood upright, like a man suddenly loosed from bonds and
+     fetters, and with the firm step of a freeman, he descended the
+     staircase, and walked from the place."--_Schönberg-Cotta
+     Chronicles._
+
+     "Did the feet of the Saviour actually tread these steps? Are these
+     reliques really portions of his cross, crown of thorns, &c., or is
+     all this fictitious? To me it is all one.
+
+     "'He is not here, he is risen!' said the angel at the tomb. The
+     worship of the bodily covering which the spirit has cast off
+     belongs to the soul still in the larva condition; and the ascending
+     of the Scala Santa on the knees is too convenient a mode for
+     obtaining the forgiveness of sins, and at the same time a hindrance
+     upon the only true way."--_Frederika Bremer._
+
+Ascending one of the lateral staircases--no _foot_ must touch the Santa
+Scala--we reach the outside of the _Sancta Sanctorum_, a chapel held so
+intensely sacred that none but the pope can officiate at its altar, and
+that it is _never_ open to others, except on the morning before Palm
+Sunday, when the canons of the Lateran come hither to worship, in solemn
+procession, with torches and a veiled crucifix, and, even then, none but
+the clergy are allowed to pass its threshold. The origin of the
+sanctuary is lost in antiquity, but it was the private chapel of the
+mediæval popes in the old palace, and is known to have existed already,
+dedicated to St. Laurence, in the time of Pelagius I. (578--590), who
+deposited here some relics of St. Andrew and St. Luke. It was restored
+by Honorius III. in 1216, and almost rebuilt by Nicholas III. in 1277.
+
+It is permitted to gaze through a grating upon the picturesque glories
+of the interior, which are chiefly of the thirteenth century. The altar
+is in a recess, supported by two porphyry columns. Above it a beautiful
+silver tabernacle, presented by Innocent III. (1198-1216), to contain
+the great relic, which invests the chapel with its peculiar sanctity,--a
+portrait of our Saviour (placed here by Stephen III. in 752), held by
+the Roman Church as authentic,--to have been begun by St. Luke and
+finished by an angel, whence the name by which it is known,
+"Acheirotopeton," or, the "picture made without hands."
+
+     "The different theories as to the acheirotopeton picture, and the
+     manner in which it reached this city, are stated with naïveté by
+     Maroni--_i.e._, that the apostles and the Madonna, meeting after
+     the ascension, resolved to order a portrait of the Crucified, for
+     satisfying the desire of the faithful, and commissioned St. Luke to
+     execute the task; that after three days' prayer and fasting, such a
+     portrait was drawn in outline by that artist, but, before he had
+     begun to colour, the tints were found to have been filled in by
+     invisible hands; that this picture was brought from Jerusalem to
+     Rome, either by St. Peter, or by Titus (together with the sacred
+     spoils of the temple); or else expedited hither in a miraculous
+     voyage of only twenty-four hours by S. Germanus, patriarch of
+     Constantinople, who desired thus to save such a treasure from the
+     outrages of the Iconoclasts; and that, about A.D. 726, Pope Gregory
+     II., apprised of its arrival at the mouth of the Tiber by
+     revelation, proceeded to carry it thence, with due escort, to Rome;
+     since which advent it has remained in the Sancta
+     Sanctorum."--_Hemans' Mediæval Christian Art._
+
+Above the altar is, in gilt letters, the inscription, "non est in tota
+sanctior urbe locus." Higher up, under gothic arches, and between
+twisted columns, are pictures of sainted popes and martyrs, but these
+have been so much retouched as to have lost their interest. The gratings
+here are those of the relic chamber, which contains the reputed sandals
+of Our Saviour, fragments of the true cross, &c. On the ceiling is a
+grand mosaic,--a head of Our Saviour within a nimbus, sustained by
+six-winged seraphim--ascribed to the eighth century. The sill in front
+of the screen is covered with money, thrown in as offerings by the
+pilgrims.
+
+The chapel was once much larger. Its architect was probably Deodatus
+Cosmati. An inscription near the door tells us, "Magister Cosmatus fecit
+hoc opus."
+
+Here, in the time when the Lateran palace was inhabited, the feet of
+twelve sub-deacons were annually washed by the pope on Holy Thursday. On
+the Feast of the Assumption the sacred picture used to be borne in
+triumph through the city, halting in the Forum, where the feet of the
+pope were washed in perfumed waters on the steps of Sta. Maria Nuova,
+and the "Kyrie Eleison" was chaunted a hundred times. This custom was
+abolished by Pius V. in 1566.
+
+The _Modern Palace of the Lateran_ was built from designs of Fontana by
+Sixtus V. In 1693 Innocent XII. turned it into a hospital,--in 1438
+Gregory XVI. appropriated it as a museum. The entrance faces the obelisk
+in the Piazza di San Giovanni. The palace is always shown, but the
+terrible cold which pervades it makes it a dangerous place except in the
+late spring months, and a visit to it is often productive of fever.
+
+The ground floor is the principal receptacle for antiquities, found at
+Rome within the last few years. It contains a number of very beautiful
+sarcophagi and bas-reliefs.
+
+Entering under the corridor on the right, the most remarkable objects
+are:--
+
+     _1st Room._--
+
+     LEFT WALL:
+
+     Relief of the Abduction of Helen.
+
+     RIGHT WALL:
+
+     High relief of two pugilists, 'Dares and Entellus.'
+
+     Grand relief of Trajan followed by senators, from the Forum of
+     Trajan.
+
+     The sacred oak of Jupiter, with figures.
+
+     Bust of Marcus Aurelius.
+
+     _2nd Room._--
+
+     Beautiful architectural fragments, chiefly from the Forum of
+     Trajan.
+
+     _3rd Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     Statue of Æsculapius.
+
+     RIGHT WALL:
+
+     Statue of Antinous, called the Braschi, found at Palestrina.
+
+     Bought from the Braschi family by Gregory XVI for 12,000 scudi.
+
+     WALL OF EGRESS:
+
+     Sarcophagus of a child, with a relief representing pugilists.
+
+     _4th Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     Greek relief of Medea and the daughters of Peleus.
+
+     Above (one of a number of busts), 762. Beautiful head of a Dryad.
+
+     Statue of Germanicus.
+
+     RIGHT WALL:
+
+     Statue of Mars.
+
+     WALL OF EGRESS:
+
+     Copy of the Faun of Praxiteles.
+
+     IN THE CENTRE:
+
+     A fine vase of Lumachella.
+
+A passage is crossed to the
+
+     _5th Room._--
+
+     IN THE CENTRE:
+
+    1. Sacrifice of Mithras.
+    2. A stag of basalt.
+    3. A cow.
+
+     RIGHT WALL:
+
+     Sepulchral urn, with a curious relief representing children and
+     cock-fighting.
+
+     _6th Room._--
+
+     An interesting collection of statues, from Cervetri (Cære),
+     including those of Tiberius and Claudius; between them Agrippina,
+     sixth wife of Claudius,--and others less certain.
+
+     BETWEEN THE WINDOWS:
+
+     Drusilla, sister of Claudius, and, on the wall, part of her
+     epitaph.
+
+     _7th Room._--
+
+     RIGHT WALL:
+
+     Faun dancing,--found near Sta. Lucia in Selce.
+
+     FACING THE ENTRANCE:
+
+     _A grand statue of Sophocles_ (the gem of the collection), found at
+     Terracina, 1838. Given by the Antonelli family.
+
+     "Sophocle, dans une pose aisée et fière, un pied en avant, un bras
+     enveloppé dans son manteau qu'il serre contre son corps, contemple
+     avec une majestueuse sérénité la nature humaine et la domine d'un
+     regard sûr et tranquille."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 573.
+
+     _8th Room._--
+
+     Statue of Neptune, from Porto--the legs and arms restored.
+
+     _9th Room._--
+
+     Architectural fragments from the Via Appia and Forum.
+
+     _10th Room._--
+
+     A series of interesting reliefs, found 1848, at the tomb of the
+     Aterii at Centocellæ, representing the preparations for the funeral
+     solemnities of a great Roman lady.
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     The building of the sepulchre. A curious machine for raising heavy
+     stones is introduced.
+
+     RIGHT WALL:
+
+     The body of the dead surrounded by burning torches, the mourners
+     tearing their hair and beating their breasts.
+
+     WALL OF EGRESS:
+
+     Showing several Roman buildings which the funeral procession would
+     pass,--among them the Coliseum and the Arch of Titus--inscribed,
+     "Arcus in sacra via summa."
+
+     Signor Rosa has considered this last relief of great importance, as
+     indicating by the different monuments the route which a
+     well-ordered funeral procession ought to pursue.
+
+A second passage is crossed to the
+
+     _11th Room._--
+
+     Containing several fine sarcophagi.
+
+     _12th Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     Sarcophagus, with the story of Orestes.
+
+     RIGHT WALL:
+
+     Sarcophagus decorated with Cupids bearing garlands, and supporting
+     a head of Augustus.
+
+     WALL OF EGRESS:
+
+     Sarcophagus representing the destruction of the children of Niobe.
+
+     _13th Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     Statue of C. Lælius Saturninus.
+
+     IN THE CENTRE:
+
+     Sarcophagus of P. Cæcilius Vallianus, representing a funeral
+     banquet.
+
+     LEFT WALL:
+
+     Unfinished statue of a captive barbarian, with sculptor's marks
+     remaining, to guide the workman's chisel.
+
+     _15th Room._--
+
+     This and the next room are devoted to objects recently found in the
+     excavations at Ostia.
+
+     LEFT WALL:
+
+     Mosaic in a niche.
+
+     _16th Room._--
+
+     IN THE CENTRE:
+
+     Reclining statue of Atys.
+
+     RIGHT WALL:
+
+     Frescoes of the story of Orpheus and Eurydice, from a tomb at
+     Ostia.
+
+The _Christian Museum_, founded by Pius IX., and arranged by Padre
+Marchi and the Cavaliere Rossi, is of great interest. In the first hall
+is a statue of Christ by _Sosnowsky_, and in the wall behind it three
+mosaics,--two from the catacombs, that in the centre--of Christ with SS.
+Peter and Paul--from the old St. Peter's. Hence we ascend a staircase
+lined with Christian sarcophagi. At the foot are two statues of the Good
+Shepherd.
+
+     "Une des compositions de Calamis ne doit pas être oubliée à Rome,
+     car ce sujet païen a été adopté par l'art chrétien des premiers
+     temps. Les représentations du _Bon Pasteur rapportant la brebis_,
+     expressions touchante de la miséricorde divine, ont leur origine
+     dans le _Mercure porte-bélier_ (Criophore). Quelquefois c'est un
+     _berger_ qui porte un bélier, une brebis ou un agneau; l'on se
+     rapproche ainsi a l'idée du _bon pasteur_. En général, le bon
+     pasteur, dans les monuments chrétiens, porte une _brebis_, la
+     brebis égarée de l'Évangile; mais quelquefois aussi il porte _un
+     bélier_; et alors le souvenir de l'original païen dans la
+     composition chrétienne est manifeste."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii.
+     256.
+
+The sarcophagus on the left, which tells the story of Jonah, is
+especially fine. The corridor above is also lined with sarcophagi. The
+best are on the left; of these the most remarkable are, the 1st, the
+marriage at Cana; 4th, the Good Shepherd repeated several times among
+vines, with cherubs gathering the grapes; 7th, a sarcophagus with a
+canopy supported by two pavonazzetto columns, and on the wall behind,
+frescoes of the Good Shepherd, &c. At the raised end of the corridor is
+the seated statue of Hippolytus, Bishop of Porto in the third century
+(the upper part a restoration), found in the Catacomb of Sta. Cyriaca,
+and moved hither from the Vatican Library; upon the chair is engraved
+the celebrated Paschal Calendar, which is supposed to settle the
+unorthodoxy of those early Christians who kept Easter at the same time
+as the Jews.
+
+Hence, three rooms lined with drawings from the paintings in the
+different catacombs, lead to,--
+
+
+THE PICTURE GALLERY.
+
+     _1st Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     Cartoon of stoning of Stephen: _Giulio Romano_.
+
+     Below this is the celebrated mosaic called _Asarotos_, representing
+     an unswept floor after a banquet. It is inscribed with the name of
+     its artist, _Heraclitus_, but is a copy from one of the two famous
+     mosaics of Sosus of Pergamus (the other is "Pliny's Doves"). It was
+     found on the Aventine in 1833 in the gardens of Servilius, and
+     "probably adorned a dining-room where Cæsar may have supped with
+     Servilia, the sister of Cato, and mother of Brutus." A similar
+     pavement is alluded to by Statius:--
+
+                "Varias ubi picta per artes
+    Gaudet humus superare novis asarota figuris."
+
+    _Sylv._ i. 3, 55.
+
+     LEFT WALL:
+
+     Christ and St Thomas--a cartoon: _Camuccini_.
+
+     WINDOW WALL:
+
+     The first sketch for the famous fresco of the Descent from the
+     Cross at the Trinità de' Monti: _Daniele da Volterra_.
+
+On the right is the entrance of the
+
+     _2nd Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     Annunciation: _Cav. d' Arpino_.
+
+     RIGHT WALL:
+
+     George IV. of England (most strangely out of place): _Lawrence_.
+
+     WALL OF EGRESS:
+
+     Assumption of the Virgin: _After Guercino_.
+
+From the corner of this room, on the right, a staircase leads to a
+gallery, whence one may look down upon the huge and hideous mosaic
+pavement--with portraits of twenty-eight athletes--found in the Baths of
+Caracalla in 1822.
+
+     "Les gladiateurs de la mosaïque de Saint Jean de Latran ont reçu la
+     forte alimentation qu'on donnait à leurs pareils; ils ont bien cet
+     air de résolution brutale que devaient avoir ceux qui prononçaient
+     ce féroce serment que nous a conservé Pétrone: 'Nous jurons d'obéir
+     à nôtre maître Eumolpe, qu'il nous ordonne de nous laisser brûler,
+     enchaîner, frapper, tuer par le fer ou autrement; et comme vrais
+     gladiateurs, nous dévouons à notre maître nos corps et nos
+     vies.'"--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iv. 33.
+
+On the left of 1st room is the
+
+     _3rd Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     Madonna with SS. Peter, Dominic, and Anthony on the right, and SS.
+     John Baptist, Laurence, and Francis on the left: _Marco Palmezzano
+     di Forli_, 1537.
+
+     IN THE LEFT CORNER:
+
+     Madonna and Saints: _Carlo Crivelli_, 1482.
+
+     LEFT WALL:
+
+     St. Thomas receiving the girdle of the Virgin (the Sacra Cintola of
+     Prato)--with a predella: _Benozzo Gozzoli_.
+
+     WALL OF EGRESS:
+
+     Madonna with St. John Baptist and St. Jerome: _Palmezzano_.
+
+     _4th Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     Sixtus V. as Cardinal: _Sassoferrato_.
+
+     Madonna: _Carlo Crivelli_, 1482--very highly finished.
+
+     LEFT WALL:
+
+     Sixtus V. as Pope: _Domenichino_(?).
+
+     Two Gobelins from pictures of Fra Bartolommeo at the Quirinal.
+
+     WALL OF EGRESS:
+
+     Christ with the Tribute Money: _Caravaggio_.
+
+     _5th Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     Entombment: _Venetian School_.
+
+     LEFT WALL:
+
+     Greek Baptism: _Pietro Nocchi_, 1840.
+
+     WALL OF EGRESS:
+
+     Holy Family: _Andrea del Sarto_.
+
+     _6th Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     Baptism of Christ: _Cesare da Sesto_.
+
+     LEFT WALL:
+
+     SS. Agnes and Emerentiana: _Luca Signorelli_; Annunciation: _F.
+     Francia_; SS. Laurence and Benedict (very peculiar, as scarcely
+     showing their faces at all, but magnificent in colour): _Luca
+     Signorelli_.
+
+     WALL OF EGRESS:
+
+     Coronation of the Virgin, with wings, of saints, angels, and doves:
+     _F. Filippo Lippi_.
+
+     BETWEEN THE WINDOWS: S. Jerome, in tempera: _Giovanni Sanzio,
+     father of Raphael_.
+
+     _7th Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     Pagan sacrifice: _Caravaggio_ (?).
+
+     LEFT WALL:
+
+     _Altar-piece by Antonio da Murano_, 1464.
+
+     WALL OF EGRESS:
+
+     Christ at Emmaus: _Caravaggio_.
+
+     _8th Room._--
+
+     An oil copy of the fresco of the Flagellation of St. Andrew by
+     Domenichino, at S. Gregorio.
+
+     _9th Room._--
+
+     A set of beautiful terracotta busts and reliefs by _Pettrich_,
+     illustrative of North American Indian life. This room is called the
+     Hall of Council, and is surrounded by fresco portraits of popes,
+     and pictures allegorical of their arms, &c.
+
+The walls of the open galleries on this floor of the palace have been
+covered with early Christian inscriptions from the catacombs, which have
+been thus arranged in arches:--
+
+    1--3. Epitaphs of martyrs and others of temp. Damasus I. (366 to 384).
+    4--7. Dated inscriptions from 238 to 557.
+    8--9. Inscriptions relating to doctrine.
+    10.--Inscriptions relating to popes, presbyters, and deacons.
+    11--12. Inscriptions relating to simple ecclesiastics.
+    13.--Inscriptions of affection to relations and friends.
+    14--16. Symbolical.
+    17.--Simple epitaphs from different catacombs.
+
+On the third floor of the palace are casts from the bas-reliefs on the
+column of Trajan.
+
+Before leaving the Lateran altogether, we must notice amongst its early
+institutions, the famous school of music which existed here throughout
+the middle ages.
+
+     "Gregory the Great, whose object it seems to have been to render
+     religion a thing of the senses, was the founder of the music of the
+     Church. He instituted the school for it in the Lateran, whence the
+     Carlovingian monarchs obtained teachers of singing and
+     organ-playing. The Frankish monks were sent thither for
+     instruction."--_Dyer's Hist. of the City of Rome._
+
+Opposite the palace is the entrance of the _Villa Massimo Arsoli_, to
+which admission may be obtained by a permesso given at the Palazzo
+Massimo alle Colonne. There is little to see here, however, except a
+casino beautifully decorated with scenes taken from the great Italian
+poets by the modern German artists, Schnorr, Kock, Ph. Veit, Overbeck,
+and Führich.
+
+     "Les sujets sont tirés de Dante, de l'Arioste, et du Tasse. Dante a
+     été confide à Cornélius, l'Arioste à Schnorr, le Tasse à Overbeck,
+     les trois plus célèbres noms de cette école qui croit pouvoir
+     remonter par une imitation savante à la naïveté du XVe.
+     siècle."--_Ampère, Voyage Dantesque._
+
+Leading from the Piazza di San Giovanni to Sta. Maria Maggiore is the
+Via Immerulana, where, in the hollow, is the strange-looking _Church of
+SS. Pietro e Marcellino_, in which is preserved a miraculous painting of
+the Crucifixion; the figure upon the cross is supposed to move the eyes,
+when regarded by the faithful. This picture, a small replica of the
+magnificent Guido at S. Lorenzo in Lucina, is shown, behind a grille, by
+a nun of Sta. Theresa, veiled from head to foot in blue, like an
+immovable pillar of blue drapery.
+
+     "SS. Pietro e Marcellino stands in the valley behind the Esquiline,
+     in the long, lonely road between Sta. Maria Maggiore and the
+     Lateran. SS. Peter Exorcista and Marcellinus are always represented
+     together in priestly habits, bearing their palms. Their legend
+     relates, that in the persecution under Diocletian they were cast
+     into prison. Artemius, keeper of the dungeon, had a daughter named
+     Paulina, and she fell sick; and St. Peter offered to restore her
+     to health, if her father would believe in the true God. And the
+     jailer mocked him, saying, 'If I put thee into the deepest dungeon,
+     and load thee with heavier chains, will thy God deliver thee? If he
+     doth, I will believe in him.' And Peter answered, 'Be it so, not
+     out of regard to thee; for it matters little to our God whether
+     such an one as thou believe in him or not, but that the name of
+     Christ may be glorified, and thyself confounded.'
+
+     "And in the middle of the night Peter and Marcellinus, in white
+     shining garments, entered the chamber of Artemius as he lay asleep,
+     who, being struck with awe, fell down and worshipped the name of
+     Christ; and he, his wife, daughter, and three hundred others, were
+     baptized. After this the two holy men were condemned to die for the
+     faith, and the executioner was ordered to lead them to a forest
+     three miles from Rome, that the Christians might not discover their
+     place of sepulture. And when he had brought them to a solitary
+     thicket overgrown with brambles and thorns, he declared to them
+     that they were to die, upon which they cheerfully fell to work and
+     cleared away a space fit for the purpose, and dug the grave in
+     which they were to be laid. Then they were beheaded (June 2), and
+     died encouraging each other.
+
+     "The fame of SS. Pietro e Marcellino is not confined to Rome. In
+     the reign of Charlemagne they were venerated as martyrs throughout
+     Italy and Gaul; and Eginhard, the secretary of Charlemagne who
+     married his daughter Emma, is said to have held them in particular
+     honour. Every one, I believe, knows the beautiful story of Eginhard
+     and Emma,--and the connection of these saints with them, as their
+     chosen protectors, lends an interest to their solitary deserted
+     church. In the Roma Sotterranea of Bosio, p. 126, there is an
+     ancient fragment found in the catacombs, which represents St. Peter
+     Exorcista, St. Marcellinus, and Paulina, standing together."--_Mrs.
+     Jameson._
+
+Behind the Santa Scala, a narrow lane leads to the _Villa Wolkonski_ (a
+"permesso" may be obtained through your banker), a most beautiful
+garden, running along the edge of the hill, intersected by the broken
+arches of the Aqua Claudia, and possessing exquisite views over the
+Campagna, with its lines of aqueducts to the Alban and Sabine mountains.
+_No one should omit to visit this villa._
+
+     "Where the aqueducts, just about to enter the city, most nearly
+     converge, and looking across the Campagna--which their arches only
+     seem able to span--towards Albano and the hills, stands the Villa.
+     Embosomed in olive and in ilex trees, it is rich in hoar cypresses,
+     in urns, and in those pathetic fragments of old workmanship which
+     an undergrowth of violets and acanthus half hides, and half
+     reveals."--_Vera._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+About a mile beyond the Porta S. Giovanni, a road branches off on the
+left to the _Porta Furba_, an arch of the Aqua Felice, founded on the
+line of the Claudian and Marcian aqueducts. Artists may find a
+picturesque subject here in a pretty fountain, with a portion of the
+decaying aqueduct. Beyond the arch is the mound called _Monte del
+Grano_, which has been imagined to be the burial-place of Alexander
+Severus. Beyond this, the road (to Frescati) passes on the left the vast
+ruins, called _Sette Bassi_.
+
+The direct road--which leads to Albano--reaches, about two miles from
+the gate, a queer building, called the Casa del Diavolo, on the outside
+of which some rude frescoes testify to the popular belief as to its
+owner. Just beyond this a field track on the left leads to the _Via
+Latina_, of which a certain portion, paved with huge polygonal blocks of
+lava, is now laid bare. Here are some exceedingly interesting and
+well-preserved tombs, richly ornamented with painting and stucco. The
+view, looking back upon Rome, or forward to the long line of broken
+arches of the Claudian aqueduct, seen between these ruined sepulchres,
+is most striking and beautiful.
+
+Close by have been discovered remains of a villa of the Servilii, which
+afterwards belonged to the Asinarii. Here also, in 1858 (on the left of
+the Via Latina), Signor Fortunati discovered the long buried and
+forgotten _Basilica of S. Stefano_. It is recorded by Anastasius that
+this basilica was founded in the time of Leo I. (440--461) by Demetria,
+a lady who escaped from the siege by the Goths, with her mother, to
+Carthage, where she became a nun. It was restored by Leo III. at the end
+of the eighth century. The remains are interesting, though they do
+little more than show perfectly the substruction and plan of the ancient
+building. An inscription relating to the foundation of the church by
+Demetria has been found among the ruins.
+
+Not far from this is the _Catacomb of the Santi-Quattro_.
+
+Three and a half miles from Rome is the Osteria of _Tavolato_, near
+which is one of the most striking and picturesque portions of the
+Claudian Aqueduct. It is on the rising ground between this aqueduct and
+the road, that the _Temple of Fortuna Muliebris_ is believed to have
+stood. This was the temple which Valeria, the sister of Publicola, and
+Volumnia, the mother of Coriolanus, claimed to erect at their own
+expense, when the senate asked them to choose their recompense for
+having preserved Rome by their entreaties.
+
+     "As Valeria, sister of Publicola, was sitting in the temple, as a
+     suppliant before the image of Jupiter, Jupiter himself seemed to
+     inspire her with a sudden thought, and she immediately rose, and
+     called upon all the other noble ladies who were with her, to arise
+     also, and she led them to the house of Volumnia, the mother of
+     Caius (Coriolanus). There she found Virgilia, the wife of Caius,
+     with his mother, and also his little children. Valeria then
+     addressed Volumnia and Virgilia, and said, 'Our coming here to you
+     is our own doing; neither the senate nor any mortal man have sent
+     us; but the god in whose temple we were sitting as suppliants put
+     it into our hearts, that we should come and ask you to join with
+     us, women with women, without any aid of men, to win for our
+     country a great deliverance, and for ourselves a name, glorious
+     above all women, even above those Sabine wives in the old time, who
+     stopped the battle between their husbands and their fathers. Come,
+     then, with us to the camp of Caius, and let us pray to him to show
+     us mercy.' Volumnia said, 'We will go with you:' and Virgilia took
+     her young children with her, and they all went to the camp of the
+     enemy.
+
+     "It was a sad and solemn sight to see this train of noble ladies,
+     and the very Volscian soldiers stood in silence as they passed by,
+     and pitied them and honoured them. They found Caius sitting on the
+     general's seat, in the midst of the camp, and the Volscian chiefs
+     were standing round him. When he first saw them he wondered what it
+     could be; but presently he knew his mother, who was walking at the
+     head of the train, and then he could not contain himself, but leapt
+     down from his seat, and ran to meet her, and was going to kiss her.
+     But she stopped him, and said, 'Ere thou kiss me, let me know
+     whether I am speaking to an enemy or to my son; whether I stand in
+     thy camp as thy prisoner or thy mother?' Caius could not answer
+     her; and then she went on and said, 'Must it be, then, that had I
+     never borne a son, Rome never would have seen the camp of an enemy;
+     that had I remained childless, I should have died a free woman in a
+     free city? But I am too old to bear much longer either thy shame or
+     my misery. Rather look to thy wife and children, whom, if thou
+     persistest, thou art dooming to an untimely death, or a long life
+     of bondage.' Then Virgilia and his children came up to him and
+     kissed him, and all the noble ladies wept, and bemoaned their own
+     fate and the fate of their country. At last Caius cried out, 'O
+     mother, what hast thou done to me?' and he wrung her hand
+     vehemently, and said, 'Mother, thine is the victory; a happy
+     victory for thee and for Rome, but shame and ruin to thy son.' Then
+     he fell on her neck and embraced her, and he embraced his wife and
+     his children, and sent them back to Rome; and led away the army of
+     the Volscians, and never afterwards attacked Rome any more. The
+     Romans, as was right, honoured Volumnia and Valeria for their deed,
+     and a temple was built and dedicated to 'Woman's Fortune' just on
+     the spot where Caius had yielded to his mother's words; and the
+     first priestess of the temple was Valeria, into whose heart Jupiter
+     had first put the thought to go to Volumnia, and to call upon her
+     to go out to the enemy's camp and entreat her son."--_Arnold's
+     Hist. of Rome_, vol. i.
+
+     "Il y a peu de scènes dans l'histoire plus émouvantes que celle-là,
+     et elle ne perd rien à la décoration du théâtre; en se plaçant sur
+     un tertre à quatre milles de Rome, près de la voie Latine, dans un
+     lieu où il n'y a aujourd'hui que des tombeaux et des ruines, on
+     peut se figurer le camp des Volsques, dont les armes et les tentes
+     étincellent au soleil. Les montagnes s'élèvent à l'horizon. A
+     travers la plaine ardente et poudreuse défile une foule voilée dont
+     les gémissements retentissent dans le silence de la campagne
+     romaine. Bientôt Coriolan est entouré de cette multitude suppliante
+     dont les plaintes, les cris, devaient avoir la vivacité des
+     démonstrations passionées des Romaines de nos jours. Coriolan eût
+     ré sisté à tout ce bruit, il eût peut-être résisté aux larmes de
+     sa femme et aux caresses de ses enfants; il ne résista pas à la
+     sévérité de sa mère.
+
+     "Le soir, par un glorieux coucher du soleil de Rome qui éclaire
+     leur joie, la procession triomphante s'éloigne en adressant un
+     chant de reconnaissance aux dieux, et lui se retire dans sa tente,
+     étonné d'avoir pu céder."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ ii. 402.
+
+The return drive to Rome may be varied by turning to the right about a
+mile beyond this, into a lane which leads past the so-called temple of
+Bacchus to the Via Appia Vecchia.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+We may now follow the lines of white mulberry-trees across the open
+space in front of St. John Lateran, which is a continuation of the
+ancient papal promenade of "the Mirror," to Sta. Croce. The sister
+basilicas look at each other, and at Sta. Maria Maggiore, down avenues
+of trees. On the left are the walls of Rome, upon which run the arches
+of the Aqua Marcia.
+
+     "Few Roman churches are set within so impressive a picture as Santa
+     Croce, approached on every side through these solitudes of
+     vineyards and gardens, quiet roads, and long avenues of trees, that
+     occupy such immense extent within the walls of Rome. The scene from
+     the Lateran, looking towards this basilica across the level common,
+     between lines of trees, with the distance of Campagna and
+     mountains, the castellated walls, the arcades of the Claudian
+     aqueduct, amid gardens and groves, is more than beautiful, full of
+     memory and association. The other approach, by the unfrequented Via
+     di Sta. Croce, presents the finest distances, seen through a
+     foliage beyond the dusky towers of the Honorian walls, and a wide
+     extent of slopes covered with vineyards, amid which stand at
+     intervals some of those forlorn cottage farms, grey and
+     dilapidated, that form characteristic features in Roman scenery.
+     The majestic ruins of Minerva-Medica, the so-called temple of Venus
+     and Cupid, the fragments of the Baths of St. Helena, the Castrense
+     Amphitheatre, the arches of the aqueduct, half concealed in cypress
+     and ivy, are objects which must increase the attractions of a walk
+     to this sanctuary of the cross. But the exterior of the church is
+     disappointing and inappropriate, retaining nothing antique except
+     the square Lombardic tower of the twelfth century, in storeys of
+     narrow-arched windows, its brickwork ornamented with disks of
+     coloured marble, and a canopy, with columns, near the summit, for a
+     statue no longer in its place."--_Hemans' Catholic Italy_, vol. i.
+
+The site of the _Basilica of Sta. Croce in Gerusalemme_ was once
+occupied by the garden of Heliogabalus, and afterwards by the palace of
+the Empress Helena, mother of Constantine, whose residence here was
+known as the Palatium Sessorianum, whence the name of Sessorian,
+sometimes given to the basilica.
+
+The church was probably once a hall in the palace of Helena, to which an
+apse was added by Constantine, in whose reign it was consecrated by Pope
+Sylvester. It was repaired by Gregory II. early in the eighth century;
+the monastery was added by Benedict VII. about 975, and the whole was
+rebuilt by Lucius II. in 1144. The church was completely modernized by
+Benedict XIV. in the last century, and scarcely anything, except the
+tower, now remains externally, which is even as old as the twelfth
+century. The fine columns of granite and bigio-lumachellato, which now
+adorn the façade, were plundered from the neighbouring temple in 1744.
+
+The interior of the church is devoid of beauty, owing to modernizations.
+Four out of twelve fine granite columns, which divided its nave and
+aisles, are boxed up in senseless plaster piers. The high altar is
+adorned with an urn of green basalt, sculptured with lions' heads, which
+contains the bodies of SS. Anastasius and Cæsarius. Two of the pillars
+of the baldacchino are of breccia-corallina. The fine frescoes of the
+tribune by _Pinturicchio_ have been much retouched. They were executed
+under Alexander VI., on a commission from Cardinal Carvajal, who is
+himself represented as kneeling before the cross, which is held by the
+Empress Helena.
+
+     "The very important frescoes of the choir apsis of Sta. Croce (now
+     much over-painted) are of Pinturicchio's better time. They
+     represent the finding of the Cross, with a colossal Christ in a
+     nimbus among angels above,--a figure full of wild
+     grandeur."--_Kugler._
+
+     "Near the entrance of the church is a valuable monument of the
+     papal history of the tenth century, in a metrical epitaph to
+     Benedict VII., recording his foundation of the adjoining monastery
+     for monks, who were to sing day and night the praises of the Deity;
+     his charities to the poor; and the deeds of the anti-pope Franco,
+     called by Baronius (with play upon his assumed name Boniface)
+     Malefacius, who usurped the Holy See, imprisoned and strangled the
+     lawful pope, Benedict VI., and pillaged the treasury of St.
+     Peter's, but in one month was turned out and excommunicated, when
+     he fled to Constantinople. The chronology of this epitaph is by the
+     ancient system of Indictions, the death of the pope dated XII.
+     Indiction, corresponding to the year 984: and the Latin style of
+     the tenth century is curiously exemplified in lines relating to the
+     anti-pope:
+
+    'Hic primus repulit Franconis spurca superbi
+    Culmina qui invasit sedis apostolicæ
+    Qui dominumque suum captum in castro habebat
+    Carceris interea auctis constrictus in uno
+    Strangulatus ubi exuerat hominem.'"
+
+    _Hemans' Catholic Italy._
+
+
+The consecration of the Golden Rose, formerly sent to foreign princes,
+used to take place in this church. The principal observances here now
+are connected with the exhibition of the relics, of which the principal
+is the Title of the True Cross.
+
+     "In 1492, when some repairs were ordered by Cardinal Mendoza, a
+     niche was discovered near the summit of the apse, enclosed by a
+     brick front, inscribed 'Titulus Crucis.' In it was a leaden coffer,
+     containing an imperfect plank of wood, 2 inches thick, 1-1/2 palm
+     long, 1 palm broad. On this, in letters more or less perfect, was
+     the inscription in Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, _Jesus Nazarene King_.
+     It was venerated by Innocent VIII., with the college of cardinals,
+     and enclosed by Mendoza in the silver shrine, where it is exposed
+     three times a year from the balcony. The relics are exposed on the
+     4th Sunday in Lent. On Good Friday the rites are more impressive
+     here than in any other church, the procession of white-robed monks,
+     and the deep toll of the bell announcing the display of the relics
+     by the mitred abbot, are very solemn, and it is surprising, that
+     while crowds of strangers submit to be crushed in the Sistine,
+     scarcely one visits this ancient basilica on that day."--_Hemans'
+     Catholic Italy._
+
+     "The list of relics on the right of the apsis of Sta. Croce
+     includes, the finger of St. Thomas Apostle, with which he touched
+     the most holy side of our Lord Jesus Christ; one of the pieces of
+     money with which the Jews paid the treachery of Judas; great part
+     of the veil and of the hair of the most blessed Virgin; a mass of
+     cinders and charcoal, united in the form of a loaf, with the fat of
+     St. Lawrence, martyr; one bottle of the most precious blood of our
+     Lord Jesus Christ; another of the milk of the most blessed Virgin;
+     a little piece of the stone where Christ was born; a little piece
+     of the stone where our Lord sate when he pardoned Mary Magdalen; of
+     the stone where our Lord wrote the law, given to Moses on Mount
+     Sinai; of the stone where reposed SS. Peter and Paul; of the cotton
+     which collected the blood of Christ; of the manna which fed the
+     Israelites; of the rod of Aaron, which flourished in the desert; of
+     the relics of the eleven prophets!"--_Percy's Romanism._
+
+Two staircases near the tribune lead to the subterranean church, which
+has an altar with a pietà, and statues of SS. Peter and Paul of the
+twelfth century. Hence opens the chapel of Sta. Helena,[285] which women
+(by a perversion especially strange in this case) are never allowed to
+enter except on the festival of the saint, August 18. It is built upon a
+soil composed of earth brought by the empress from Palestine. Her statue
+is over the altar. The vault has mosaics (originally erected under
+Valentinian III., but restored by _Zucchi_ in 1593) representing, in
+ovals, a half-length figure of the Saviour; the Evangelists and their
+symbols; the Finding of the True Cross; SS. Peter and Paul; St.
+Sylvester, the conservator of the church; and Sta. Helena, with Cardinal
+Carvajal kneeling before her.
+
+Here the feast of the "Invention of the True Cross" (May 3) is
+celebrated with great solemnity, when the hymns "Pange Lingua" and
+"Vexilla Regis" are sung, and the antiphon:--
+
+     "O Cross, more glorious than the stars, world famous, beauteous of
+     aspect, holiest of things, which alone wast worthy to sustain the
+     weight of the world: dear wood, dear nails, dear burden, bearing;
+     save those present assembled in thy praise to-day. Alleluia."
+
+And the collect:--
+
+     "O God, who by the glorious uplifting of the salvation-bearing
+     cross, hast displayed the miracles of thy passion, grant that by
+     the merit of that life-giving wood, we may attain the suffrages of
+     eternal life, &c."
+
+The adjoining _Monastery_ belongs to the Cistercians. Only part of one
+wing is ancient. The library formerly contained many curious MSS., but
+most of these were lost to the basilica, when the collection was removed
+to the Vatican during the French occupation and the exile of Pius VII.
+
+The garden of the monastery contains the ruin generally known as the
+_Temple of Venus and Cupid_, but considered by Dr. Braun to be the
+Sessorian Basilica or law-court, where the causes of slaves (who were
+allowed to appeal to no other court) were wont to be heard. Behind the
+monastery is the _Amphitheatrum Castrense_, attributed to the time of
+Nero, when it is supposed to have been erected for the games of two
+cohorts of soldiers, quartered near here. It is ingrafted into the line
+of the Honorian walls, and is best seen from the outside of the city.
+Its arches and pillars, with Corinthian capitals, are all of brick.
+
+(On the left of the Via Sta. Croce, which leads hence to Sta. Maria
+Maggiore, is the gate of the _Villa Altieri_, chiefly remarkable for its
+grand umbrella pine, the finest in the city. Further, on the right, is a
+tomb of unknown origin, now used as a farm-house and a wine-shop.)
+
+Turning to the right from the basilica, we follow a lane which leads
+beneath some fine brick arches of an aqueduct of the time of Nero, cited
+by Ampère,[286] as exemplifying the perfection to which architecture
+attained in the reign of this emperor, "by the quality of the bricks,
+and the excellence and small quantity of the cement." These ruins are
+popularly called the Baths of Sta. Helena.
+
+Passing these arches we find ourselves facing the _Porta Maggiore_,
+formed by two arches of the Claudian Aqueduct, formerly known as the
+Porta Labicana, and Porta Prenestina, of which the former was closed in
+the time of Honorius, and has never been re-opened. Three inscriptions
+remain, the first relating to the building of the aqueduct by the
+Emperor Tiberius Claudius;--the second and third to its restoration by
+Vespasian and Titus. Above the Aqua Claudia flowed a second stream, the
+Anio Novus.
+
+Outside the gate, only lately disclosed, upon the removal of
+constructions of the time of Honorius (the fragments of those worth
+preserving are placed on the opposite wall), is the _Tomb of the Baker
+Eurysaces_, who was also one of the inspectors of aqueducts. The tomb is
+attributed to the early years of the Empire. Its first storey is
+surmounted by the inscription: "EST HOC MONUMENTUM MARCEI VERGILEI
+EVRYSACES PISTORIS REDEMPTORIS APPARET." Its second storey is composed
+of rows of the mortars used in baking, placed sideways, and supporting
+a frieze with bas-reliefs telling the story of a baker's work, from the
+bringing of the corn into the mill to its distribution as bread. In the
+front of the tomb was formerly a relief of the baker and his wife, with
+a sarcophagus, and the inscription: "FUIT ATISTIA UXOR MIHEI--FEMINA
+OPTVMA VEIXSIT--QUOIVS CORPORIS RELIQUIÆ--QUOD SUPERANT SUNT IN--HOC
+PANARIO." This has been foolishly removed, and is now to be seen upon
+the opposite wall.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+From this gate many pleasant excursions may be taken. The direct road
+leads to Palestrina by Zagarolo, and at 1-1/2 mile from the gate passes,
+on the left, _Torre Pignatarra_, the tomb of Sta. Helena, whence the
+magnificent porphyry sarcophagus, now in the Vatican, was removed. The
+name is derived from the _pignatte_, or earthen pots, used in the
+building. Beneath it is a catacomb, now closed. The adjoining _Catacomb
+of SS. Pietro e Marcellino_ contains some well preserved paintings; the
+most interesting is that of the Divine Lamb on a mound (from which four
+rivers flow as in the mosaics of the ancient basilicas), with figures of
+Petrus, Gorgonius, Marcellinus, and Tiburtius. At three miles from the
+gate the road reaches _Centocellæ_, whence, near the desolate tower
+called _Torre Pernice_, there is a most picturesque view of the aqueduct
+_Aqua Alexandrina_, built by Alexander Severus, with a double line of
+arches crossing the hollow. At five miles, on the right, is the Borghese
+farm of Torre Nuova, with a fine group of old stone pines.
+
+The road which turns left from the gate leads by the _Aqua Bollicante_,
+where the Arvales sang their hymn, to the picturesque ruins of the
+_Torre dei Schiavi_, the palace of the Emperors Gordian (A.D. 238),
+adjoining which are the remains of a round temple of Apollo. This is,
+perhaps, one of the most striking scenes in the Campagna and--backed by
+the violet mountains above Tivoli--is a favourite subject with artists.
+
+     "Les Gordiens, très-grands personnages, furent de très-petits
+     empereurs. Ils montrent ce qu'était devenu l'aristocratie romaine
+     dégénérée. Le premier, honnête et pusillanime, comme le prouvent
+     son élection et sa mort, était un peu replet et avait dans l'air du
+     visage quelque chose de solennel et de théâtral (_pompali vultu_).
+     Il aimait et cultivait les lettres. Son fils également se fit
+     quelque réputation en ce genre, grâce surtout à sa bibliothèque de
+     soixante mille volumes; mais il avait d'autres goûts encore que
+     celui des livres: on lui donne jusqu'à vingt-deux concubines en
+     titre, et de chacune d'elles, il eut trois ou quatre enfants. Il
+     menait une vie épicurienne dans ses jardins et sous des ombrages
+     délicieux: c'étaient les jardins et les ombrages d'une villa
+     magnifique que les Gordiens avaient sur la voie Prénestine, et dont
+     Capitolin, au temps duquel elle existait encore, nous a laissé une
+     description détaillée. Le péristyle était formé de deux cents
+     colonnes des marbres les plus précieux, le cipollin, le
+     pavonazetto, le jaune et le rouge antiques. La villa renfermait
+     trois basiliques et les thermes que ceux de Rome surpassaient à
+     peine. Telle était l'opulence d'une habitation privée vers le
+     milieu du troisième siècle de l'empire."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 328.
+
+The road which continues in a straight line from hence passes, on the
+left, the Torre Tre Teste. The eighth mile-stone is of historic
+interest, being described by Livy (v. 49) as the spot where the dictator
+Camillus overtook and exterminated the army of Gauls who were retreating
+from Rome with the spoils of the Capitol.
+
+At the ninth mile is the _Ponte di Nono_, a magnificent old bridge with
+seven lofty arches of lapis-gabinus. This leads (twelve miles from Rome)
+to the dried-up lake and the ruins of Gabii (Castiglione), including
+that of the temple of Juno Gabina.
+
+                      "Quique arva Gabinæ
+    Junonis, gelidumque Anienem, et roscida rivis
+    Hernica saxa colunt."
+
+    _Virgil, Æn._ vii. 682.
+
+The road which branches off on the left leads (twelve miles from Rome)
+to _Lunghezza_, the fine old castle of the Strozzi family, situated on
+the little river Osa. Hence a beautiful walk through a wood leads to
+Castello del Osa, the ruins of the ancient _Collatia_, so celebrated
+from the tragedy of Lucretia. Two miles beyond the Torre dei Schiavi, on
+the left, is the fine castellated farm of _Cervaletto_, a property of
+the Borghese. A field road of a mile and half, passing in front of this
+(practicable for carriages), leads to another fine old castellated farm
+(five miles from Rome), close to which are the extraordinary _Grottoes
+of Cerbara_,--a succession of romantic caves of great size, in the tufa
+rocks, from which the material of the Coliseum was excavated. Here the
+"Festa degli Artisti" is held in May, which is well worth seeing,--the
+artists in costume riding in procession, and holding games, amid these
+miniature Petra-like ravines. Beyond Cerbara are remains of a villa of
+Lucius Verus, and, on the bank of the Anio, the romantically-situated
+castle of _Rustica_.
+
+From the Porta Maggiore we may follow a lane along the inside of the
+wall, crossing the railway--whence there is a picturesque view of the
+temple of Minerva Medica--to _The Porta S. Lorenzo_, anciently called
+the Porta Tiburtina (the road to Tivoli passes through it), built in
+402, by the Emperors Arcadius and Honorius, on the advice of Stilicho,
+as we learn from an inscription over the archway of the Marcian,
+Tepulan, and Julian Aqueducts, now half buried within the later brick
+gateway.
+
+The road just beyond the gate is connected with the story of the
+favourite saint of the Roman people.
+
+     "When Sta. Francesca Romana had no resource but to beg for the sick
+     under her care, she went to the basilica of _S. Lorenzo fuori_
+     Mura, where was the station of the day, and seated herself amongst
+     the crowd of beggars, who, according to custom, were there
+     assembled. From the rising of the sun to the ringing of the
+     vesper-bell, she sate there, side by side with the lame, the
+     deformed, and the blind. She held out her hand as they did, gladly
+     enduring, not the semblance, but the reality, of that deep
+     humiliation. When she had received enough wherewith to feed the
+     poor at home, she rose, and entering the old basilica, adored the
+     Blessed Sacrament, and then walked back the long and weary way,
+     blessing God all the while."--_Lady G. Fullerton._
+
+A quarter of a mile beyond the gate we come in sight of the church and
+monastery, but the effect is much spoilt by the hideous modern cemetery,
+formed since the following description was written:--
+
+     "S. Lorenzo is as perfect a picture of a basilica externally, as S.
+     Clemente is internally. Viewing it from a little distance, the
+     whole pile--in its grey reverend dignity--the row of stones
+     indicating the atrium, with an ancient cross in the centre--the
+     portico overshadowing faded frescoes--the shelving roof, the
+     body-wall bulging out and lapping over, like an Egyptian
+     temple--the detached Lombard steeple--with the magic of sun and
+     shadow, and the background of the Campagna, bounded by the blue
+     mountains of Tivoli--together with the stillness, the repose,
+     interrupted only by the chirp of the grasshopper, and the distant
+     intermitted song of the Contadino--it forms altogether such a scene
+     as painters love to sketch, and poets to re-people with the shadows
+     of past ages; and I open a wider heaven for either fraternity to
+     fly their fancies in, when I add that it was there the ill-fated
+     Peter de Courtenay was crowned Emperor of the East."--_Lord
+     Lindsay, Christian Art._
+
+     "To St. Laurence was given a crown of glory in heaven, and upon
+     earth eternal and universal praise and fame; for there is scarcely
+     a city or town in all Christendom which does not contain a church
+     or altar dedicated to his honour. The first of these was built by
+     Constantine outside the gates of Rome, on the spot where he was
+     buried; and another was built on the summit of the hill, where he
+     was martyred; besides these, there are at Rome four others; and in
+     Spain the Escurial, and at Genoa the Cathedral."--_Mrs. Jameson._
+
+We have already followed St. Laurence to the various spots in Rome
+connected with his story,--to the green space at the Navicella, where he
+distributed his alms before the house of St. Cyriaca (in whose catacomb
+he was first buried); to the basilica in the Palace of the Cæsars, where
+he was tried and condemned; to S. Lorenzo in Fonte, where he was
+imprisoned; to S. Lorenzo Pane e Perna, where he died; to S. Lorenzo in
+Lucina, where his supposed gridiron is preserved; and now we come to his
+grave, where a grand basilica has arisen around the little oratory,
+erected by Constantine, which marked his first burial-place in the
+Catacombs.
+
+The first basilica erected here was built in the end of the sixth
+century, by Pope Pelagius II., but this was repeatedly enlarged and
+beautified by succeeding popes, and at length was so much altered in
+1216, by Honorius III., that the old basilica became merely the choir or
+tribune of a larger and more important church. So many other changes
+have since taken place, that Bunsen remarks upon S. Lorenzo as more
+difficult of explanation than any other of the Roman churches.
+
+In front of the basilica stands a bronze statue of St. Laurence, upon a
+tall granite pillar.
+
+The portico is supported by six Ionic columns, four of them spiral.
+Above these is a mosaic frieze of the thirteenth century. In the centre
+is the Spotless Lamb, having, on the right, St. Laurence, Honorius III.,
+and another figure; and on the left three heads, two of whom are
+supposed to be the virgin martyr Sta. Cyriaca, and her mother
+Tryphoena, buried in the adjoining cemetery. Above this is a very
+richly decorated marble frieze, boldly relieved with lions' heads. The
+gable of the church is faced with modern mosaics of saints. Within the
+portico are four splendid sarcophagi; that on the left of the entrance
+is adorned with reliefs representing a vintage, with cupids as the
+vine-gatherers, and contains the remains of Pope Damasus II., who died
+in 1049, after a reign of only twenty-three days. At the sides of the
+door are two marble lions. The walls of the portico are covered with a
+very curious series of frescoes, lately repainted. They represent four
+consecutive stories.
+
+On the right:--
+
+     A holy hermit, living a life of solitude and prayer, heard a
+     rushing noise, and, looking out of his window, saw a troop of
+     demons, who told him that the Emperor Henry II. had just expired,
+     and that they were hurrying to lay claim to his soul. The hermit
+     trembled, and besought them to let him know as they returned how
+     they had succeeded. Some days after, they came back and narrated
+     that when the Archangel was weighing the good and evil deeds of the
+     emperor in his balance, the weight was falling in their
+     favour--when suddenly the roasted St. Laurence appeared, bearing a
+     golden chalice, which the emperor, shortly before his death, had
+     bestowed upon the Church, and cast it into the scale of good deeds,
+     and so turned the balance the other way, but that in revenge they
+     had broken off one of the golden handles of the chalice. And when
+     the hermit heard these things he rejoiced greatly; and the soul of
+     the emperor was saved and he became a canonized saint,--and the
+     devils departed blaspheming.
+
+The order of the frescoes representing this legend is:--
+
+    1, 2. Scenes in the life of Henry II.
+    3. The Emperor offers the golden chalice.
+    4. A banquet scene.
+    5. The hermit discourses with the devils.
+    6. The death of Henry II.--1024.
+    7. The dispute for the soul of the Emperor.
+    8. It is saved by St. Laurence.
+
+The second series represents the whole story of the acts, trial,
+martyrdom, and burial of St. Laurence; one or two frescoes in this were
+entirely effaced, and have been added by the restorer. Of the old series
+were:--
+
+    1. The investiture of St. Laurence as deacon.
+    2. St. Laurence washes the feet of poor Christians.
+    3. He heals Sta. Cyriaca.
+    4. He distributes alms on the Coelian.
+    5. He meets St. Sixtus led to death, and receives his blessing.
+    6. He is led before the prefect.
+    7. He restores sight to Lucillus.
+    8. He is scourged.
+    9. He baptizes St. Hippolytus.
+    11. He refuses to give up the treasures of the Church.
+    13, 14, 15. His burial by St. Hippolytus.
+
+The third series represents the story of St. Stephen, followed by that
+of the translation of his relics to this basilica.
+
+     The relics of St. Stephen were preserved at Constantinople, whither
+     they had been transported from Jerusalem by the Empress Eudoxia,
+     wife of Theodosius II. Hearing that her daughter Eudoxia, wife of
+     Valentinian II., Emperor of the West, was afflicted with a devil,
+     she begged her to come to Constantinople that her demon might be
+     driven out by the touch of the relics. The younger Eudoxia wished
+     to comply,--but the devil refused to leave her, unless St. Stephen
+     was brought to Rome. An agreement was therefore made that the
+     relics of St. Stephen should be exchanged for those of St.
+     Laurence. St. Stephen arrived, and the empress was immediately
+     relieved of her devil, but when the persons who had brought the
+     relics of St. Stephen from Constantinople were about to take those
+     of St. Laurence back with them, they all fell down dead! Pope
+     Pelagius prayed for their restoration to life, which was granted
+     for a short time, to prove the efficacy of prayer, but they all
+     died again ten days after! Thus the Romans knew that it would be
+     criminal to fulfil their promise, and part with the relics of St.
+     Laurence, and the bodies of the two martyrs were laid in the same
+     sarcophagus.
+
+The frescoes in the left wall represent a separate story:--
+
+     A holy sacristan arose before the dawn to enjoy solitary prayers
+     before the altars of this church. Once when he was thus employed,
+     he found that he was not alone, and beheld three persons, a priest,
+     a deacon, and sub-deacon, officiating at the altar, and the church
+     around him filled with worshippers, whose faces bore no mortal
+     impress. Tremblingly he drew near to him whom he dreaded the least,
+     and inquired of the deacon, who this company might be. 'The priest
+     whom thou seest is the blessed apostle Peter,' answered the spirit,
+     'and I am Laurence who suffered cruel torments for the love of my
+     master Christ, upon a Wednesday, which was the day of his betrayal;
+     and in remembrance of my martyrdom we are come to-day to celebrate
+     here the mysteries of the Church; and the sub-deacon who is with us
+     is the first martyr, St. Stephen,--and the worshippers are the
+     apostles, the martyrs, and virgins who have passed with me into
+     Paradise, and have come back hither to do me honour; and of this
+     solemn service thou art chosen as the witness. When it is day,
+     therefore, go to the pope and tell what thou hast seen, and bid
+     him, in my name, to come hither and to celebrate a solemn mass with
+     all his clergy, and to grant indulgences to the faithful.' But the
+     sacristan trembled and said, 'If I go to the pope he will not
+     believe me: give me some visible sign, then, which will show what I
+     have seen.' And St. Laurence ungirt his robe, and giving his girdle
+     to the sacristan, bade him show it in proof of what he told. In the
+     morning the old man related what he had seen to the abbot of the
+     monastery, who bore the girdle to the then pope, Alexander II. The
+     pope accompanied him back to the basilica,--and on their way they
+     were met by a funeral procession, when, to test the powers of the
+     girdle, the pope laid it on the bier, and at once the dead arose
+     and walked. Then all men knew that the sacristan had told what was
+     true, and the pope celebrated mass as he had been bidden, and
+     promised an indulgence of forty years to all who should visit on a
+     Wednesday any church dedicated to St. Laurence.
+
+This story is told in eight pictures:--
+
+     1. The sacristan sees the holy ones.
+
+     2. The Phantom Mass.
+
+     3. The sacristan tells the abbot.
+
+     4. The abbot tells the pope.
+
+     5. The pope consults his cardinals.
+
+     6. The dead is raised by the girdle.
+
+     7. Mass is celebrated at St. Lorenzo, and souls are freed from
+     purgatory by the intercession of the saint.
+
+     8. Prayer is made at the shrine of St. Laurence.
+
+The nave--which is the basilica of Honorius III.--is divided from its
+side aisles by twenty-two Ionic columns of granite and cipollino. The
+sixth column on the right has a lizard and a frog amongst the
+decorations of its capital, which led Winckelmann to the supposition
+that these columns were brought hither from the Portico of Octavia,
+because Pliny describes that the architects of the Portico of Metellus,
+which formerly occupied that site, were two Spartans, named Sauros and
+Batrachus, who implored permission to carve their names upon their work;
+and that when leave was refused, they introduced them under this
+form,--Batrachus signifying a frog, and Sauros a lizard.
+
+Above the architrave are frescoes by _Fracassini_, of the lives and
+martyrdoms of SS. Stephen and Laurence. Higher up are saints connected
+with the history of the basilica. The roof is painted in patterns. The
+splendid opus-alexandrinum pavement is of the tenth century. On the left
+of the entrance is a baptismal font, above which are more frescoes
+relating to the story of St. Laurence. On the right, beneath a mediæval
+canopy, is a very fine sarcophagus, sculptured with a wedding
+scene,--adapted as the tomb of Cardinal Fieschi, nephew of Innocent IV.,
+who died in 1256. Inside the canopy, is a fresco of Christ throned, to
+whom St. Laurence presents the cardinal, and St. Stephen Innocent IV.
+Behind stand St. Eustace and St. Hippolytus. The west end of the church
+is closed by the inscription, "Hi sunt qui venerunt de tribulatione
+magna, et laverunt stolas suas in sanguine agni."
+
+The splendid ambones in the nave, inlaid with serpentine and porphyry,
+are of the twelfth century. That on the right, with a candelabrum for
+the Easter candle, was for the gospel; that on the left for the epistle.
+
+At the end of the left aisle, a passage leads down to a subterranean
+chapel, used for prayer for the souls in purgatory. Here is the entrance
+to the _Catacombs of Sta. Ciriaca_, which are said to extend as far as
+Sant' Agnese, but which have been much and wantonly injured in the works
+for the new cemetery. Here the body of St. Laurence is related to have
+been found. Over the entrance is inscribed:--
+
+     "Hæc est tumba illa toto orbe terrarum celeberrima ex cimeterio S.
+     Cyriacæ Matronæ ubi sacrum si quis fecerit pro defunctis eorum
+     animas e purgatorii poenis divi Laurentii meritis evocabit."[287]
+
+Passing the triumphal arch, we enter the early basilica of Pope Pelagius
+II. (572--590), which is on a lower level than that of the nave. Here
+are twelve splendid columns of pavonazzetto, of which the two first bear
+trophies carved above the acanthus leaves of their capitals. These
+support an entablature formed from various antique fragments, put
+together without uniformity,--and a triforium, divided by twelve small
+columns.
+
+On the inside, which was formerly the outside, of the triumphal arch, is
+a restored mosaic of the time of Pelagius, representing the Saviour
+seated upon the world, having on the right St. Peter, St. Laurence, and
+St. Pelagius, and on the left St. Paul and St. Stephen, and with them,
+in a warrior's dress, St. Hippolytus, the soldier who was appointed to
+guard St. Laurence in prison, and who, being converted by him, was
+dragged to death by wild horses, after seeing nineteen of his family
+suffer before his eyes. He is the patron saint of horses. Here also are
+the mystic cities, Bethlehem and Jerusalem.
+
+A long poetical inscription is known to have once existed here; only two
+lines remain round the arch:--
+
+    "Martyrium flaminis olim Levita subisti
+    Jure tuis templis lux veneranda redit."
+
+The high altar, with a baldacchino, supported by four porphyry columns,
+covers the remains of SS. Laurence and Stephen, enclosed in a silver
+shrine by Pelagius II., a pope so munificent that he had given up his
+own house as a hospital for aged poor. St. Justin is also buried here.
+
+     "No one knew what had become of the body of St. Stephen for 400
+     years, when Lucian, a priest of Carsamagala, in Palestine, was
+     visited in a dream by Gamaliel, the doctor of the law at whose feet
+     Paul was brought up in all the learning of the Jews; and Gamaliel
+     revealed to him that after the death of Stephen he had carried away
+     the body of the saint, and had buried it in his own sepulchre, and
+     had also deposited near it the body of Nicodemus and other saints;
+     and this dream having been repeated three times, Lucian went with
+     others deputed by the bishop, and dug with mattocks and spades in
+     the spot which had been indicated,--a sepulchre in a garden,--and
+     found what they supposed to be the remains of St. Stephen, their
+     peculiar sanctity being proved by many miracles. These relics were
+     first deposited in Jerusalem, in the church of Sion, and afterwards
+     by the younger Theodosius carried to Constantinople, whence they
+     were taken to Rome, and placed by Pope Pelagius in the same tomb
+     with St. Laurence. It is related that when they opened the
+     sarcophagus, and lowered into it the body of St. Stephen, St.
+     Laurence moved on one side, giving the place of honour on the right
+     hand to St. Stephen: hence the common people of Rome have conferred
+     on St. Laurence the title of 'Il cortese Spagnuolo'--the courteous
+     Spaniard."--_Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art._
+
+Behind the altar is a mosaic screen, with panels of porphyry and
+serpentine, and an ancient episcopal throne.
+
+The lower church was filled up with soil till 1864, when restorations
+were ordered here. These were entrusted to Count Vespignani, and have
+been better carried out than most church alterations in Rome; but an
+interesting portico, with mosaics by one of the famous Cosmati family,
+has been destroyed to make room for some miserable arrangements
+connected with the modern cemetery.
+
+It was in this basilica that Peter Courtenay, Count of Auxerre, with
+Yolande his wife, received the imperial crown of Constantinople from
+Honorius III. in 1217.
+
+Adjoining the church is the very picturesque _Cloister of the
+Monastery_, built in 1190, for Cistercian monks, but assigned as a
+residence for any Patriarchs of Jerusalem who might visit Rome. Here are
+preserved many ancient inscriptions, and other fragments from the
+neighbouring catacombs.
+
+The basilica is now almost engulfed in the Cemetery of S. Lorenzo, the
+great modern burial-ground of Rome. It was opened in 1837, but has been
+much enlarged in the last ten years. Hither wend the numerous funerals
+which are seen passing through the streets after Ave-Maria, with a
+procession of monks bearing candles. A frightful gate, with a laudatory
+inscription to Pius IX., and a hideous modern chapel, have been erected.
+There are very few fine monuments. The best are those in imitation of
+the cinque-cento tombs of which there are so many in the Roman churches.
+That by Podesti, the painter, to his wife, in the right corridor of the
+cloister, is touching. The higher ground to the left, behind the church,
+is occupied by the tombs of the rich. Those of the poor are
+indiscriminately scattered over a wide plain. A range of cliffs on the
+left were perforated by the catacombs of Sta. Cyriaca, which, with the
+bad taste so constantly displayed in Rome, have been wantonly and
+shamefully broken up. Those who do not wish to descend into a catacomb,
+may here see (from without) all their arrangements--in the passages
+lined with sepulchres, and even some small chapels, lined with rude
+frescoes, laid open to the air, where the cliff has been cut away.
+
+A Roman funeral is a most sad sight, and strikes one with an unutterable
+sense of desolation.
+
+     "After a death the body is entirely abandoned to the priests, who
+     take possession of it, watch over it, and prepare it for burial;
+     while the family, if they can find refuge anywhere else, abandon
+     the house and remain away a week.... The body is not ordinarily
+     allowed to remain in the house more than twelve hours, except on
+     condition that it is sealed up in lead or zinc. At nightfall a sad
+     procession of _becchini_ and _frati_ may be seen coming down the
+     street, and stopping before the house of the dead. The _becchini_
+     are taken from the lowest classes of the people, and hired to carry
+     the corpse on the bier and to accompany it to the church and
+     cemetery. They are dressed in shabby black _cappe_, covering their
+     head and face as well as their body, and having two large holes cut
+     in front of the eyes to enable them to see. These _cappe_ are
+     girdled round the waist, and the dirty trousers and worn-out shoes
+     are miserably manifest under the skirts of their dress--showing
+     plainly that their duty is occasional. All the _frati_ and
+     _becchini_, except the four who carry the bier, are furnished with
+     wax candles, for no one is buried in Rome without a candle. You may
+     know the rank of the person to be buried by the lateness of the
+     hour and the number of the _frati_. If it be the funeral of a
+     person of wealth or a noble, it takes place at a late hour, the
+     procession of _frati_ is long, and the bier elegant. If it be a
+     state-funeral, as of a prince, carriages accompany it in mourning,
+     the coachman and lackeys are bedizened in their richest liveries,
+     and the state hammer-cloths are spread on the boxes, with the
+     family arms embossed on them in gold. But if it be a pauper's
+     funeral, there are only _becchini_ enough to carry the bier to the
+     grave, and two _frati_, each with a little candle; and the sunshine
+     is yet on the streets when they come to take away the corpse.
+
+     "You will see this procession stop before the house where the
+     corpse is lying. Some of the _becchini_ go up-stairs, and some keep
+     guard below. Scores of shabby men and boys are gathered round the
+     _frati_; some attracted simply by curiosity, and some for the
+     purpose of catching the wax, which gutters down from the candles as
+     they are blown by the wind. The latter may be known by the great
+     horns of paper which they carry in their hands. While this crowd
+     waits for the corpse, the _frati_ light their candles, and talk,
+     laugh, and take snuff together. Finally comes the body, borne down
+     by four of the _becchini_. It is in a common rough deal coffin,
+     more like an ill-made packing-case than anything else. No care or
+     expense has been laid out upon it to make it elegant, for it is
+     only to be seen for a moment. Then it is slid upon the bier, and
+     over it is drawn the black velvet pall with golden trimmings, on
+     which a cross, death's head, and bones are embroidered. Four of the
+     _becchini_ hoist it on their shoulders, the _frati_ break forth
+     into their hoarse chaunt, and the procession sets out for the
+     church. Little and big boys and shabby men follow along, holding up
+     their paper horns against the sloping candles to catch the dripping
+     wax. Every one takes off his hat, or makes the sign of the cross,
+     or mutters a prayer, as the body passes; and with a dull, sad,
+     monotonous chaunt, the candles gleaming and flaring, and casting
+     around them a yellow flickering glow, the funeral winds along
+     through the narrow streets, and under the sombre palaces and
+     buildings, where the shadows of night are deepening every moment.
+     The spectacle seen from a distance, and especially when looked down
+     upon from a window, is very effective; but it loses much of its
+     solemnity as you approach it; for the _frati_ are so vulgar, dirty,
+     and stupid, and seem so utterly indifferent and heartless, as they
+     mechanically croak out their psalms, that all other emotions yield
+     to a feeling of disgust."--_Story's Roba di Roma._
+
+     "Ces rapprochements soudains de l'antiquité et des temps modernes,
+     provoqués par la vue d'un monument dont la destinée se lie à l'une
+     et aux autres, sont très-fréquents à Rome. L'histoire poétique
+     d'Énée aurait pu m'en fournir plusieurs. Ainsi dans l'Énéide, aux
+     funérailles de Pallas, une longue procession s'avance, portant des
+     flambeaux funèbres, suivant l'usage antique, dit Virgile. En effet,
+     on se souvient que l'usage des cierges remontait à l'abolition des
+     sacrifices humains, accompli dans les temps héroïques par le dieu
+     pélasgique Hercule. La description que fait Virgile des funérailles
+     de Pallas pourrait convenir à un de ces enterrements romains où
+     l'on voit de longues files de capucins marchant processionnellement
+     en portant des cierges.
+
+    ... 'Lucet via longo
+    Ordine flammarum.'"
+
+    _Æn._ xi. 143.
+
+    --_Ampère_, i. 217.
+
+
+On the other side of the road from S. Lorenzo is the _Catacomb of St.
+Hippolytus_, interesting as described by the Christian poet Prudentius,
+who wrote at the end of the fourth century.
+
+     "Not far from the city walls, among the well-trimmed orchards,
+     there lies a crypt buried in darksome pits. Into its secret
+     recesses a steep path in the winding stairs directs one, even
+     though the turnings shut out the light. The light of day, indeed,
+     comes in through the doorway, as far as the surface of the opening,
+     and illuminates the threshold of the portico; and when, as you
+     advance further, the darkness as of night seems to get more and
+     more obscure throughout the mazes of the cavern, there occur at
+     intervals apertures cut in the roof which convey the bright rays of
+     the sun upon the cave. Although the recesses, twisting at random
+     this way and that, form narrow chambers with darksome galleries,
+     yet a considerable quantity of light finds its way through the
+     pierced vaulting down into the hollow bowels of the mountain. And
+     thus throughout the subterranean crypt it is possible to perceive
+     the brightness and enjoy the light of the absent sun. To such
+     secret places is the body of Hippolytus conveyed, near to the spot
+     where now stands the altar dedicated to God. That same altar-slab
+     (mensa) gives the sacrament, and is the faithful guardian of its
+     martyrs' bones, which it keeps laid up there in expectation of the
+     Eternal Judge, while it feeds the dwellers by the Tiber with holy
+     food. Wondrous is the sanctity of the place! The altar is at hand
+     for those who pray, and it assists the hopes of men by mercifully
+     granting what they need. Here have I, when sick with ills both of
+     soul and body, oftentimes prostrated myself in prayer and found
+     relief.... Early in the morning men come to salute (Hippolytus):
+     all the youth of the place worship here: they come and go until the
+     setting of the sun. Love of religion collects together into one
+     dense crowd both Latins and foreigners; they imprint their kisses
+     on the shining silver; they pour out their sweet balsams; they
+     bedew their faces with tears."--See _Roma Sotterranea_, p. 98.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+IN THE CAMPUS MARTIUS.
+
+     S. Antonio dei Portoguesi--Torre della Scimia--S. Agostino--S.
+     Apollinare--Palazzo Altemps--Sta. Maria dell' Anima--Sta. Maria
+     della Pace--Palazzo del Governo Vecchio--Monte Giordano and Palazzo
+     Gabrielli--Sta. Maria Nuova--Sta. Maria di Monserrato--S. Girolamo
+     della Carità--Sta. Brigitta--S. Tommaso degl' Inglese--Palazzo
+     Farnese--Sta. Maria della Morte--Palazzo Falconieri--Campo di
+     Fiore--Palazzo Cancelleria--SS. Lorenzo e Damaso--Palazzo
+     Linote--Palazzo Spada--Trinità dei Pellegrini--Sta. Maria in
+     Monticelli--Palazzo Santa Croce--S. Carlo a Catinari--Theatre of
+     Pompey--S. Andrea della Valle--Palazzo Vidoni--Palazzo Massimo alle
+     Colonne--S. Pantaleone--Palazzo Braschi--Statue of Pasquin--Sant'
+     Agnese--Piazza Navona--Palazzo Pamfili--S. Giacomo degli
+     Spagnuoli--Palazzo Madama--S. Luigi dei Francesi--The Sapienza--S.
+     Eustachio--Pantheon--Sta. Maria sopra Minerva--Il Piè die Marmo.
+
+
+The Campus Martius, now an intricate labyrinth of streets, occupying the
+wide space between the Corso and the Tiber, was not included within the
+walls of ancient Rome, but even to late imperial times continued to be
+covered with gardens and pleasure-grounds, interspersed with open
+spaces, which were used for the public exercises and amusements of the
+Roman youth.
+
+    "Tunc ego me memini ludos in gramine Campi
+    Aspicere, et didici, lubrice Tibri, tuos."
+
+    _Ovid_, _Fast._ vi. 237.
+
+    "Tot jam abiere dies, cum me, nec cura theatri,
+    Nec tetigit Campi, nec mea musa juvat."
+
+    _Propert._ ii. _El._ 13.
+
+The vicinity of the Tiber afforded opportunities for practice in
+swimming.
+
+    "Quamvis non alius flectere equum sciens
+    Æque conspicitur gramine Martio."
+
+    _Hor._ iii. _Od._ 7.
+
+    "Altera gramineo spectabis Equiria campo,
+    Quem Tiberis curvis in latus urget aquis."
+
+    _Ovid_, _Fast._ iii. 519.
+
+        "Once, upon a raw and gusty day,
+    The troubled Tiber chafing with her shores,
+    Cæsar said to me, 'Dar'st thou, Cassius, now
+    Leap in with me into this angry flood,
+    And swim to yonder point?' Upon the word,
+    Accoutred as I was, I plunged in,
+    And bade him follow,--so, indeed, he did:
+    The torrent roared; and we did buffet it
+    With lusty sinews; throwing it aside,
+    And stemming it with hearts of controversy."
+
+    _Shakspeare_, _Julius Cæsar_.
+
+It was only near the foot of the Capitol that any buildings were erected
+under the republic, and these only public offices; under the empire a
+few magnificent edifices were scattered here and there over the plain.
+In the time of Cicero, the Campus was quite uninhabited; it is supposed
+that the population were first attracted here when the aqueducts were
+cut during the Lombard invasion, which drove the inhabitants from the
+hills, and obliged them to seek a site where they could avail themselves
+of the Tiber.
+
+The hills, which were crowded by a dense population in ancient Rome, are
+now for the most part deserted; the plain, which was deserted in
+ancient Rome, is now thickly covered with inhabitants.
+
+The plain was bounded on two sides by the Quirinal and Capitoline hills,
+which were both in the hands of the Sabines, but it had no connection
+with the Latin hill of the Palatine. Thus it was dedicated to the Sabine
+god, Mamers or Mars, either before the time of Servius Tullius, as is
+implied by Dionysius, or after the time of the Tarquins, as stated by
+Livy.
+
+Tarquinius Superbus had appropriated the Campus Martius to his own use,
+and planted it with corn. After he was expelled, and his crops cut down
+and thrown into the Tiber, the land was restored to the people. Here the
+tribunes used to hold the assemblies of the plebs in the Prata Flaminia
+at the foot of the Capitol, before any buildings were erected as their
+meeting-place.
+
+The earliest building in the Campus Martius of which there is any
+record, is the Temple of Apollo, built by the consul C. Julius, in B.C.
+430. Under the censor C. Flaminius, in B.C. 220, a group of important
+edifices arose on a site which is ascertained to be nearly that occupied
+by the Palazzo Caetani, Palazzo Mattei, and Sta. Caterina dei Funari.
+The most important was the Circus Flaminius, where the plebeian games
+were celebrated under the care of the plebeian ædiles, and which in
+later times was flooded by Augustus, when thirty-six crocodiles were
+killed there for the amusement of the people.[288]
+
+Close to this Circus was the _Villa Publica_, erected B.C. 438, for
+taking the census, levying troops, and such other public business as
+could not be transacted within the city.
+
+Here, also, foreign ambassadors were received before their entrance into
+the city, as afterwards at the Villa Papa Giulio, and here victorious
+generals awaited the decree which allowed them a triumph.[289] It was in
+the Villa Publica that Sylla cruelly massacred three thousand partisans
+of Marius, after he had promised them their lives.
+
+    "Tunc flos Hesperiæ, Latii jam sola juventus,
+    Concidit, et miseræ maculavit ovilia Romæ."
+
+    _Lucan_, ii. 196.
+
+The cries of these dying men were heard by the senate who were assembled
+at the time in the _Temple of Bellona_ (restored by Appius Claudius
+Cæcus in the Samnite War), which stood hard by, and in front of which at
+the extremity of the Circus Flaminius, where the Piazza Paganica now is,
+stood the _Columna Bellica_, where the Ferialis, when war was declared,
+flung a lance into a piece of ground, supposed to represent the enemy's
+country, when it was not possible to do it at the hostile frontier
+itself. Julius Cæsar flung the spear here when war was declared against
+Cleopatra.[290]
+
+    "Prospicit a templo summum brevis area Circum.
+      Est ibi non parvæ parva columna notæ.
+    Hinc solet hasta manu, belli prænuncia, mitti;
+      In regem et gentes, cum placet arma capi."
+
+    _Ovid_, _Fast._ vi. 205.
+
+Almost adjoining the Villa Publica was the Septa, where the Comitia
+Centuriata of the plebs assembled for the election of their tribunes.
+The other name of this place of assembly, Ovilia, or the sheepfolds,
+bears witness to its primitive construction, when it was surrounded by a
+wooden barrier. In later times the Ovilia was more richly adorned;
+Pliny describes it as containing two groups of sculpture--Pan and the
+young Olympus, and Chiron and the young Achilles--for which the keepers
+were responsible with their lives;[291] and under the empire it was
+enclosed in magnificent buildings.
+
+In B.C. 189 the _Temple of Hercules Musagetes_ was built by the censor
+Fulvius Nobilior. It occupied a site on the north-west of the portico of
+Octavia.[292] Sylla restored it:--
+
+    "Altera pars Circi custode sub Hercule tuta est;
+      Quod Deus Euboico carmine munus habet.
+    Muneris est tempus, qui Nonas Lucifer ante est:
+      Si titulos quæris; Sulla probavit opus."
+
+    _Ovid_, _Fast._ vi. 209.
+
+This temple was rebuilt by L. Marcius Philippus, stepfather of Augustus,
+and surrounded by a portico called after him Porticus Philippi.[293]
+
+    "Vites censeo porticum Philippi,
+    Si te viderit Hercules, peristi."
+
+    _Martial_, v. _Ep._ 50.[294]
+
+The _Portico of Octavia_ itself was originally built by the prætor, Cn.
+Octavius, in B.C. 167, and rebuilt by Augustus, who re-dedicated it in
+memory of his sister. Close adjoining was the _Porticus Metelli_, built
+B.C. 146, by Cæcilius Metellus.[295] It contained two _Temples of Juno
+and Jupiter_.[296] Another _Temple of Juno_ stood between this and the
+theatre of Pompey, having been erected by M. Æmilius Lepidus in B.C.
+170, together with a _Temple of Diana_.[297] Near the same spot was a
+_Temple of Fortuna Equestris_, erected in consequence of a vow of Q.
+Fulvius Flaccus when fighting against the Celtiberians in B.C. 176; a
+_Temple of Isis and Serapis_; and a _Temple of Mars_, erected by D.
+Junius Brutus, for his victories over the Gallicians in B.C. 136;[298]
+at this last-named temple the people, assembled in their centuries,
+voted the war against Philip of Macedon. In the same neighbourhood was
+the _Theatre of Balbus_, a general under Julius Cæsar, occupying the
+site of the Piazza della Scuola.
+
+The munificence of Pompey extended the public buildings much further
+into the Campus. He built, after his triumph, a _Temple of Minerva_ on
+the site now occupied by the Church of Sta. Maria sopra Minerva, on
+which the beautiful statue called "the Giustiniani Minerva" was found,
+and the _Theatre of Pompey_, surrounded by pillared porticoes and walks
+shaded with plane-trees.
+
+    "Scilicet umbrosis sordet Pompeia columnis
+      Porticus aulæis nobilis Attalicis:
+    Et creber pariter platanis surgentibus ordo,
+      Flumina sopito quæque Marone cadunt."
+
+    _Propertius_, ii. _El._ 32.
+
+    "Tu modo Pompeia lentus spatiare sub umbra,
+      Cum Sol Herculei terga leonis adit."
+
+    _Ovid_, _de Art. Am._ i. 67.
+
+    "Inde petit centum pendentia tecta columnis,
+      Illinc Pompeii dona, nemusque duplex."
+
+    _Martial_, ii. _Ep._ 14.
+
+Under the empire important buildings began to rise up further from the
+city. The _Amphitheatre of Statilius Taurus_, whose ruins are supposed
+to be the foundation of the Monte-Citorio, was built by a general under
+Augustus; the magnificent _Pantheon_, the _Baths of Agrippa_, and the
+_Diribitorium_--where the soldiers received their pay--whose huge and
+unsupported roof was one of the wonders of the city,[299] were due to
+his son-in-law. Agrippa also brought the _Aqua Virgo_ into the city to
+supply his baths, conveying it on pillars across the Flaminian Way, the
+future Corso.
+
+    "Qua vicina pluit Vipsanis porta columnis,
+      Et madet assiduo lubricus imbre lapis,
+    In jugulum pueri, qui roscida templa subibat,
+      Decidit hiberno prægravis unda gelu."
+
+    _Martial_, iv. _Ep._ 18.
+
+Near this aqueduct was a temple of Juturna;
+
+    "Te quoque lux eadem, Turni soror, æde recepit;
+    Hic ubi Virginea campus obitur aqua."
+
+    _Ovid_, _Fast._ i. 463.
+
+and another of Isis.
+
+    "A Meroë portabit aquas, ut spargat in æde
+    Isidis, antiquo quæ proxima surgit ovili."
+
+    _Juvenal_, _Sat._ vi. 528.
+
+These were followed by the erection of the _Temple of Neptune_--by some
+ascribed to Agrippa, who is said to have built it in honour of his naval
+victories, by others to the time of the Antonines; by the great
+_Imperial Mausoleum_, then far out in the country; and by the _Baths of
+Nero_, on the site now occupied by S. Luigi and the neighbouring
+buildings.
+
+            " ... Quid Nerone pejus?
+    Quid thermis melius Neronianis?"
+
+    _Martial_, vii. _Ep._ 33.
+
+          " ... Fas sit componere magnis
+    Parva, Neronea nec qui modo totus in unda
+    Hic iterum sudare negat."
+
+    _Statius_, _Silv._ i. 5.
+
+Besides these were an _Arch of Tiberius_, erected by Claudius; a _Temple
+of Hadrian_ and _Basilica of Matidia_, built by Antoninus Pius, in
+honour of his predecessors; the _Temple and Arch of Marcus Aurelius_,
+near the site of the present Palazzo Chigi; and an _Arch of Gratian,
+Valentinian II., and Theodosius_.
+
+Of all these various buildings nothing remains except the Pantheon, a
+single arch of the Baths of Agrippa, some disfigured fragments of the
+Mausoleum, a range of columns belonging to the temple of Neptune, and a
+portion of the Portico of Octavia. The interest of the Campus Martius is
+almost entirely mediæval or modern, and the objects worth visiting are
+scattered amid such a maze of dirty and intricate streets, that they are
+seldom sought out except by those who make a long stay in Rome, and care
+for everything connected with its history and architecture.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Following the line of streets which leads from the Piazza di Spagna to
+St. Peter's (Via Condotti, Via Fontanella Borghese), beyond the Borghese
+Palace, let us turn to the left by the Via della Scrofa,[300] at the
+entrance of which is the _Palazzo Galitzin_ on the right, and the
+_Palazzo Cardelli_ on the left.
+
+Passing, on the right, _St. Ivo of Brittany_, the national church of the
+Bretons, the second turn on the right, Via S. Antonio dei Portoguesi,
+shows a church dedicated to St. Anthony of Padua, and the fine mediæval
+tower called _Torre della Scimia_.
+
+In this tower once lived a man who had a favourite ape. One day this
+creature seized upon a baby, and rushing to the summit, was seen from
+below, by the agonized parents, perched upon the battlements, and
+balancing their child to and fro over the abyss. They made a vow in
+their terror that if the baby were restored in safety, they would make
+provision that a lamp should burn nightly for ever before an image of
+the Virgin on the summit. The monkey, without relaxing its hold of the
+infant, slid down the wall, and bounding and grimacing, laid the child
+at its mother's feet. Thus a lamp always burns upon the battlements
+before an image of the Madonna.
+
+This building is better known, however, as "Hilda's Tower," a fictitious
+name which it has received from Hawthorne's mysterious novel.
+
+     "Taking her way through some of the intricacies of the city, Miriam
+     entered what might be called either a widening of a street or a
+     small piazza. The neighbourhood comprised a baker's oven, emitting
+     the usual fragrance of sour bread; a shoe shop; a linendraper's
+     shop; a pipe and cigar shop; a lottery office; a station for French
+     soldiers, with a sentinel pacing in front; and a fruit stand, at
+     which a Roman matron was selling the dried kernels of chesnuts,
+     wretched little figs, and some bouquets of yesterday. A church, of
+     course, was near at hand, the façade of which ascended into lofty
+     pinnacles, whereon were perched two or three winged figures of
+     stone, either angelic or allegorical, blowing stone trumpets in
+     close vicinity to the upper windows of an old and shabby palace.
+     This palace was distinguished by a feature not very common in the
+     architecture of Roman edifices; that is to say, a mediæval tower,
+     square, massive, lofty, and battlemented and machicolated at the
+     summit.
+
+     "At one of the angles of the battlements stood a shrine of the
+     Virgin, such as we see everywhere at the street-corners of Rome,
+     but seldom or never, except in this solitary instance, at a height
+     above the ordinary level of men's views and aspirations. Connected
+     with this old tower and its lofty shrine, there is a legend; and
+     for centuries a lamp has been burning before the Virgin's image at
+     noon, at midnight, at all hours of the twenty-four, and must be
+     kept burning for ever, as long as the tower shall stand; or else
+     the tower itself, the palace, and whatever estate belongs to it,
+     shall pass from its hereditary possessor, in accordance with an
+     ancient vow, and become the property of the Church.
+
+     "As Miriam approached, she looked upward, and saw--not, indeed, the
+     flame of the never-dying lamp, which was swallowed up in the broad
+     sunlight that brightened the shrine--but a flock of white doves,
+     shining, fluttering, and wheeling above the topmost height of the
+     tower, their silver wings flashing in the pure transparency of the
+     air. Several of them sat on the ledge of the upper window, pushing
+     one another off by their eager struggle for this favourite station,
+     and all tapping their beaks and flapping their wings tumultuously
+     against the panes; some had alighted in the street, far below, but
+     flew hastily upward, at the sound of the window being thrust ajar,
+     and opening in the middle, on rusty hinges, as Roman windows
+     do."--_Transformation._
+
+The next street, on the right, leads to the _Church of S. Agostino_,
+built originally by Bacio Pintelli, in 1483, for Cardinal
+d'Estouteville, archbishop of Rouen and Legate in France (the vindicator
+of Joan of Arc), but altered in 1740 by Vanvitelli. The delicate work of
+the front, built of travertine robbed from the Coliseum, is much admired
+by those who do not seek for strength of light and shadow. This
+church--dedicated to her son--contains the remains of Sta. Monica,
+brought hither from Ostia, where she died. The chapel of St. Augustin,
+in the right transept, contains a gloomy picture by _Guercino_ of St.
+Augustin between St. John Baptist and St. Paul the Hermit. The high
+altar, by Bernini, has an image of the Madonna brought from Sta. Sophia
+at Constantinople, and attributed to St. Luke. The second chapel in the
+left aisle has a group of the Virgin and Child with St. Anna, by
+_Andrea Sansovino_, 1512.
+
+On the third pilaster, to the left of the nave, is a fresco of Isaiah by
+_Raphael_, painted in 1512, but retouched by Daniele de Volterra in the
+reign of Paul IV. The prophet holds a scroll with words from Isaiah
+xxvi. 2. Few will agree with the stricture of Kugler:--
+
+     "In a fresco, representing the prophet Isaiah and two angels, who
+     hold a tablet, the comparison is unfavourable to Raphael. An effort
+     to rival the powerful style of Michael-Angelo is very visible in
+     this picture; an effort which, notwithstanding the excellence of
+     the execution in parts, has produced only an exaggerated and
+     affected figure."--_Kugler_, ii. 371.
+
+The church overflows with silver hearts and other votive offerings,
+which are all addressed to the Madonna and Child of _Andrea Sansovino_,
+close to the west entrance, which is really a fine piece of
+sculpture--for an object of Roman Catholic idolatry.
+
+     "On the pedestal of the image is inscribed--'N. S. Pio VII. concede
+     in perpetuo 100 giorni d'indulgenza da lucrarsi una volta al giorno
+     da tutte quelle che divotamente toccheranno il piede di questa S.
+     Immagine recitando un Ave Maria per il bisogno di S. Chiesa. 7
+     Giug. MD.CCCXXII."
+
+Around this statue are, or were a short time ago, a whole array of
+assassins' daggers hung up, strange instances of trespass-offering.
+
+     "The Church of S. Agostino is the Methodist meeting-house, so to
+     speak, of Rome, where the extravagance of the enthusiasm of the
+     lower orders is allowed the freest scope. Its Virgin and Child are
+     covered, smothered, with jewels, votive offerings of those whose
+     prayers the image had heard and answered. All round the image the
+     walls are covered with votive offerings likewise; some of a similar
+     kind--jewels, watches, valuables of different descriptions. Some
+     offerings again consist of pictures, representing, generally in
+     the rudest way, some sickness or accident, cured or averted by the
+     appearance in the clouds of the Madonna, as seen in the image.
+     Almost the whole side of the church is covered, from pavement to
+     roof, with these curious productions."--_Alford's Letters from
+     Abroad._
+
+     "It is not long since the report was spread, that one day when a
+     poor woman called upon this image of the Madonna for help, it began
+     to speak, and replied, 'If I had only something, then I could help
+     thee, but I myself am so poor!'
+
+     "This story was circulated, and very soon throngs of credulous
+     people hastened hither to kiss the foot of the Madonna, and to
+     present her with all kinds of gifts. The image of the Virgin, a
+     beautiful figure in brown marble, now sits shining with ornaments
+     of gold and precious stones. Candles and lamps burn around, and
+     people pour in, rich and poor, great and small, to kiss, some of
+     them two or three times--the Madonna's foot, a gilt foot, to which
+     the forehead also is devotionally pressed. The marble foot is
+     already worn away with kissing, the Madonna is now rich.... Below
+     the altar it is inscribed in golden letters that Pius VII. promised
+     two hundred days' absolution to all such as should kiss the
+     Madonna's foot, and pray with the whole heart _Ave
+     Maria_."--_Frederika Bremer._
+
+Passing the arch, just beyond this, is the _Church of S. Apollinare_,
+built originally by Adrian I. (772--795), but modernized under Benedict
+XIV. by Fuga. It contains a number of relics of saints brought from the
+East by Basilian monks. Over the altar, on the left, in the inner
+vestibule, is a Madonna by _Perugino_. The church now belongs to the
+German college.
+
+     S. Apollinare is said to have accompanied St. Peter from Antioch to
+     Rome, and to have remained here as his companion and assistant
+     (whence the church dedicated to him here). He was afterwards sent
+     to preach the faith in Ravenna, where he became the first Christian
+     bishop, and suffered martyrdom outside the Rimini gate, July 23,
+     A.D. 79.
+
+Adjoining this church is the _Seminario Romano_, founded by Pius IV., on
+a system drawn up by his nephew, S. Carlo Borromeo. Eight hundred young
+boys are annually educated here. In order to gain admittance, it is
+necessary to be of Roman birth, to be acquainted with grammar, and to
+wish to take orders. Pupils are held to their first intention of
+entering the priesthood, by being compelled to refund all the expenses
+of their education, if they renounce it.
+
+Nearly opposite the church is the _Palazzo Altemps_, built 1580, by
+Martino Lunghi. Its courtyard, due, like all the best palace work in
+Rome, to Baldassare Peruzzi, is exceedingly graceful and picturesque.
+Ancient statues and flowering shrubs occupy the spaces between the
+arches of the ground-floor, and on the first-floor is a loggia, richly
+decorated with delicate arabesques in the style of Giovanni da Udine.
+Near this loggia is a chapel of exceedingly beautiful proportions, and
+delicately worked detail. It has several good frescoes, especially the
+Flight into Egypt, and Sta. Cecilia singing to the Virgin and the Child.
+At the west end is a small gracefully proportioned music-gallery, in
+various coloured marbles; in an inner chapel is a fine bronze crucifix.
+The palace, of which the most interesting parts are shown on request, is
+now the property of the Duke of Gallese, to whom it came by the marriage
+of Jules Hardouin, Duke of Gallese, with Donna Lucrezia d'Altemps.
+
+Following the Via S. Agostino by the mediæval _Torre Sanguinea_, whose
+name bears witness to the mediæval frays of popes and anti-popes, we
+reach the German national church of _Sta. Maria dell' Anima_, which
+derives its name from a marble group of the Madonna invoked by two souls
+in purgatory, found among the foundations, and now inserted in the
+tympanum of the portal. It was originally built _c._ 1440, with funds
+bequeathed by "un certo Giovanni Pietro," but enlarged in 1514; the
+façade is by Giuliano da Sangallo. The door-frames, of delicate
+workmanship, are by Antonio Giamberti.
+
+The front entrance is generally closed, but one can always gain
+admittance from behind, through the courtyard of the German hospital.
+
+The interior is peculiar, from its great height and width in comparison
+with its length. It is divided into three almost equal aisles. Over the
+high altar is a damaged picture of the Holy Family with saints, by
+_Giulio Romano_. On the right is the fine tomb of Pope Adrian VI.,
+Adrian Florent (1522--23), designed by Baldassare Peruzzi, and carried
+out by Michelangelo Sanese and Niccolo Tribolo. This pope, the son of a
+ship-builder at Utrecht, was professor at the university of Louvain, and
+tutor of Charles V. After the witty, brilliant age of Julius II. and Leo
+X., he ushered in a period of penitence and devotion. He drove from the
+papal court the throng of artists and philosophers who had hitherto
+surrounded it, and he put a stop to the various great buildings which
+were in progress, saying, "I do not wish to adorn priests with churches,
+but churches with priests." Still he found the times so much too
+frivolous for him, that he only survived a year. In his epitaph we
+read:--
+
+     "Hadrianus hic situs est, qui nihil sibi infelicius in vita quam
+     quod imperaret, duxit."[301]
+
+and--
+
+    "Proh dolor! quantum refert in quæ tempora vel optimi.
+    .... Cujusque virtus incidat!"
+
+The tomb was erected at the expense of Cardinal William of Enkenfort,
+the only prelate to whom he had time to give a hat.
+
+     "It is an irony, that Adrian, who despised all the arts on
+     principle, and looked upon Greek statues as idolatrous, had a more
+     artistic monument than Leo X. of the house of Medici. Baldassare
+     Peruzzi made the design, its sculptures were carried out by
+     Michelangelo Sanese and Tribolo, and they merit the highest
+     acknowledgment. Here, as is so often the case, the architecture is,
+     as it were, a frontispiece; but the way in which the pope is
+     represented, resembles, in conformity with his character, the type
+     of the middle ages. He is stretched upon a simple marble
+     sarcophagus, and slumbers with his head supported by his hand. His
+     countenance (Adrian was very handsome) is deeply marked and
+     sorrowful. In the lunette above, following the ancient type,
+     appears Mary with the Child between St. Peter and St. Paul. Below,
+     in the niches, stand the figures of the four cardinal virtues:
+     Temperance holds a chain; Courage a branch of a tree, while a lion
+     stands by her side; Justice has an ostrich by her side; Wisdom
+     carries a mirror and a serpent. These figures are executed with
+     great care. Lastly, under the sarcophagus is a large bas-relief
+     representing the entry of the pope to Rome. He sits on horseback in
+     the dress of a cardinal; behind him follow cardinals and monks; the
+     senator of Rome renders homage on his knees, while from the gate
+     the eternal Rome comes forth to meet him. This Cypria, so well
+     adorned by his predecessors, seems ill-pleased to do homage to this
+     cross old man. With secret pleasure one sees a pagan idea carried
+     out in the corner: the Tiber is represented as a river god with his
+     horn of abundance; and thus the devout pope could not defend
+     himself against the heathen spirit of the time, which has at least
+     attached itself to his tomb."--_Gregorovius, Grabmäler der Päpste._
+
+Opposite the pope, on the left of the choir, is the fine tomb of a Duke
+of Cleves, who died 1575, by Egidius of Riviere and Nicolaus of Arras.
+
+The body of the church has several good pictures. In the 1st chapel of
+the right aisle is St. Bruno receiving the keys of the cathedral of
+Miessen in Saxony from a fisherman, who had found them in the inside of
+a fish, by _Carlo Saraceni_; in the 2nd chapel, the monument of
+Cardinal Slusius; in the 3rd chapel, an indifferent copy of the Pietà of
+Michael Angelo, by _Nanni di Bacio Bigio_. In the 1st chapel of the left
+aisle is the martyrdom of St. Lambert, _C. Saraceni_.
+
+     The two pictures in this church are cited by Lanzi as the best
+     works of this comparatively rare artist, sometimes called Carlo
+     Veneziano, 1585--1625. He sought to follow in the steps of
+     Caravaggio; many will think that he surpassed him, when they look
+     upon the richness of colour and grand effect of light and shadow
+     which is displayed here.
+
+In the 3rd chapel (del Christo Morto), frescoes from the life of Sta.
+Barbara, _Mich. Coxcie_, altar-piece (the entombment) and frescoes by
+_Salviati_.
+
+On the left of the west door is the tomb of Cardinal Andrea of Austria,
+nephew of Ferdinand II., who died 1650; on the right that of Cardinal
+Enckenovirt, died 1500. In the passage towards the sacristy is a fine
+bas-relief, representing Gregory XIII. giving a sword to the Duke of
+Cleves.
+
+Close to this church is that of _Sta. Maria della Pace_, built in 1487,
+by Baccio Pintelli, to fulfil a curious _ex-voto_ made by Sixtus IV.
+Formerly there stood here a little chapel dedicated to St. Andrew, in
+whose portico was an image of the Virgin. One day a drunken soldier
+pierced the bosom of this Madonna with his sword, when blood
+miraculously spirted forth. Sixtus IV. (Francesco della Rovere,
+1471--84) visited the spot with his cardinals, and vowed to compensate
+the Virgin by building her a church, if she would grant peace to Europe
+and the Church, then afflicted by a cruel war with the Turks. Peace was
+restored, and the Church of "St. Mary of Peace" was erected by the
+grateful pope. Pietro da Cortona added the peculiar semicircular
+portico under Alexander VII. The interior has only a short nave ending
+under an octagonal cupola.
+
+Above the 1st chapel on the right (that of the Chigi family) are the
+_Four Sibyls of Raphael_.
+
+     "This is one of Raphael's most perfect works: great mastery is
+     shown in the mode of filling and taking advantage of the apparently
+     unfavourable space. The angels who hold the tablets to be written
+     on, or read by the Sibyls, create a spirited variety in the severe
+     symmetrical arrangement of the whole. Grace in the attitudes and
+     movements, with a peculiar harmony of form and colour, pervade the
+     whole picture; but important restorations have unfortunately become
+     necessary in several parts. An interesting comparison may be
+     instituted between this work and the Sibyls of Michael Angelo. In
+     each we find the peculiar excellence of the great masters; for
+     while Michael Angelo's figures are grand, sublime, profound, the
+     fresco of the Pace bears the impress of Raphael's severe and
+     ingenious grace. The four Prophets, on the wall over the Sibyls,
+     were executed by Timoteo della Vite, after drawings by
+     Raphael."--_Kugler._
+
+     "The Sibyls have suffered much from time, and more, it is said,
+     from restoration; yet the forms of Raphael, in all their
+     loveliness, all their sweetness, are still before us; they breathe
+     all the soul, the sentiment, the chaste expression, and purity of
+     design that characterize his works. The dictating angels hover over
+     the heads of the gifted maids, one of whom writes with rapid pen
+     the irreversible decrees of Fate. The countenances and musing
+     attitudes of her sister Sibyls express those feelings of habitual
+     thoughtfulness and pensive sadness natural to those who are cursed
+     with the knowledge of futurity, and all its coming
+     evils."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+     "The Sibyls are simply beautiful women of antique form, to whom,
+     with the aid of books, scrolls, and inscriptions, the Sibyllic idea
+     has been given, but who would equally pass for the abstract
+     personifications of virtues or cities. They are four in
+     number,--the Cumana, Phrygia, Persica, and Tiburtina; all, with the
+     exception of the last, in the fulness of youth and beauty, and
+     occupied, apparently, with no higher aim than that of displaying
+     both. Indeed, the Tiburtina matches ill with the rest, either in
+     character or action. She is aged, has an open book on her lap, but
+     turns with a strange and rigid action as if suddenly called. The
+     very comparison with her tends to divest the others of the
+     Sibylline character. In this, the angels who float above, and
+     obviously inspire them, also help, for while adding to the charm of
+     the composition, which is one of the most exquisite as to mere
+     art, they interfere with that inwardly inspired expression which
+     all other art has given to these women.
+
+     "The inscription on the scroll of the Cumæan Sibyl gives in Greek
+     the words, 'The Resurrection of the Dead.' The Persica is writing
+     on the scroll held by the angel, 'He will have the lot of Death.'
+     The beautiful Phrygia is presented with a scroll, 'The heavens
+     surround the sphere of the earth;' and the Tiburtina has under her
+     the inscription, 'I will open and arise.' The fourth angel floats
+     above, holding the seventh line of Virgil's Eclogue, 'Jam nova
+     progenies.'"--_Lady Eastlake's 'History of Our Lord.'_
+
+The 1st chapel on the left has monuments of the Ponzetti family. The 2nd
+chapel on the left has an altar-piece of the Virgin between St. Bridget
+and St. Catherine, by _Baldassare Peruzzi_; in the front of the picture
+kneels the donor, Cardinal Ponzetti. The 1st altar on the right has the
+Adoration of the Shepherds by _Sermoneta_. The 2nd chapel, the
+burial-place of the Santa Croce family, has rich carved work of the
+sixteenth century. The high altar, designed by Carlo Maderno, has an
+ancient (miracle-working) Madonna. Of the four paintings of the cupola,
+the Nativity of the Virgin is by _Francesco Vanni_; the Visitation,
+_Carlo Maratta_; the Presentation in the Temple, _Baldassare Peruzzi_;
+the Death of the Virgin, _Morandi_.
+
+Newly-married couples have the touching custom of attending their first
+mass here, and invoking "St. Mary of Peace" to rule the course of their
+new life.
+
+The _Cloister of the Convent_, entered on the left under the dome, was
+designed by _Bramante_ for Cardinal Caraffa in 1504.
+
+From the portico of the church the Via in Parione leads to the _Via del
+Governo Vecchio_. Here, on the right, is the _Palazzo del Governo
+Vecchio_, with a richly-sculptured door-*way, and ancient cloistered
+court.
+
+Proceeding as far as the Piazza del Orologio, we see on the right an
+eminence known as _Monte Giordano_, supposed to be artificial, and to
+have arisen from the ruins of ancient buildings.
+
+     Its name is derived from Giordano Orsini, a noble of one of the
+     oldest Roman families, who built the palace there, which is now
+     known as the _Palazzo Gabrielli_, and which has rather a handsome
+     fountain. It was probably in consequence of the name Jordan, that
+     this hillock was chosen in mediæval times as the place where the
+     Jews in Rome received the newly-elected pope on his way to the
+     Lateran, and where their elders, covered with veils, presented him,
+     on their knees, with a copy of the Pentateuch bound in gold. Then
+     the Jews spoke in Hebrew, saying, "Most holy Father, we Hebrew men
+     beseech your Holiness, in the name of our synagogue, to vouchsafe
+     to us that the Mosaic Law, given on Mount Sinai by the Almighty God
+     to Moses our priest, may be confirmed and approved, as also other
+     eminent popes, the predecessors of your Holiness, have approved and
+     confirmed it". And the pope replied, "We confirm the Law, but we
+     condemn your faith and interpretation thereof, because He who you
+     say is to come, the Lord Jesus Christ, is come already, as our
+     Church teaches and preaches."
+
+Turning to the left, we enter a piazza, one side of which is occupied by
+the convent of the Oratorians, and the vast _Church of Santa Maria in
+Valicella, or the Chiesa Nuova_, built by Martino Lunghi for Gregory
+XIII. and S. Filippo Neri. The façade is by Rughesi. The decorations of
+the magnificently-ugly interior are partly due to Pietro da Cortona, who
+painted the roof and cupola.
+
+On the left of the tribune is the gorgeous _Chapel of S. Filippo Neri_,
+containing the shrine of the saint, rich in lapis-lazuli and gold,
+surmounted by a mosaic copy of the picture by _Guido_ in the adjoining
+convent.
+
+On the right, in the 1st chapel, is the Crucifixion, by _Scipione
+Gaetani_; in the 3rd chapel, the Ascension, _Maziano_. On the left, in
+the 2nd chapel, is the Adoration of the Magi, _Cesare Nebbia_; in the
+3rd chapel, the Nativity, _Durante Alberti_; in the 4th chapel, the
+Visitation, _Baroccio_. In the left transept are statues of SS. Peter
+and Paul, by _Valsoldo_, and the Presentation in the Temple, by
+_Baroccio_. When S. Filippo Neri saw this picture, he said to the
+painter "Ma come avete ben fatto!--Che vera somiglianza!--E così che mi
+ha apparato tante volte la Santa Vergine."
+
+The high altar has four columns of porta-santa. Its pictures are by
+_Rubens_ in his youth;--that in the centre represents the Virgin in a
+glory of angels; on the right are St. Gregory, S. Mauro, and St. Papias;
+on the left St. Domitilla, St. Nereus, and St. Achilleus.
+
+_The Sacristy_, entered from the left transept, is by Marucelli. It has
+a grand statue of S. Filippo Neri, by _Algardi_. The ceiling is painted
+by _Pietro da Cortona_--the subject is an angel bearing the instruments
+of the passion to heaven.
+
+The _Monastery_, built by Borromini, contains the magnificent library
+founded by S. Filippo. The cell of the saint is accessible, even to
+ladies. It retains his confessional, chair, shoes, rope-girdle,--and
+also a cast taken from his face after death, and some pictures which
+belonged to him, including one of Sta. Francesca Romana, and the
+portrait of an archbishop of Florence. In the private chapel adjoining,
+is the altar at which he daily said mass, over which is a picture of his
+time. Here also are the crucifix which was in his hands when he died,
+his candlesticks, and some sacred pictures on tablets which he carried
+to the sick. The door of the cell is the same, and the little bell by
+which he summoned his attendant. In a room below is the carved coffin in
+which he lay in state, a picture of him lying dead, and the portrait by
+_Guercino_ from which the mosaic in the church is taken. A curious
+picture in this chamber represents an earthquake at Beneventum, in which
+Pope Gregory XIV. believed that his life was saved by an image of S.
+Filippo. When S. Filippo Nero died,--as in the case of S. Antonio,--the
+Catholic world exclaimed intuitively, "Il Santo è morto!"
+
+    "Let the world flaunt her glories! each glittering prize,
+    Though tempting to others, is naught in my eyes.
+    A child of St. Philip, my master and guide,
+    I would live as he lived, and would die as he died.
+
+    "If scanty my fare, yet how was he fed?
+    On olives and herbs and a small roll of bread.
+    Are my joints and bones sore with aches and with pains?
+    Philip scourged his young flesh with fine iron chains.
+
+    "A closet his home, where he, year after year,
+    Bore heat or cold greater than heat or cold here;
+    A rope stretch'd across it, and o'er it he spread
+    His small stock of clothes; and the floor was his bed.
+
+    "One lodging besides; God's temple he chose,
+    And he slept in its porch his few hours of repose;
+    Or studied by light which the altar-lamp gave,
+    Or knelt at the martyr's victorious grave."
+
+    _J. H. Newman_, 1857.
+
+The church of the Chiesa Nuova belongs exclusively to the Oratorian
+Fathers. Pope Leo XII. wished to turn it into a parish church.
+
+     "It was said that the superior of the house took, and showed, to
+     the Holy Father, an autograph memorial of the founder St. Philip
+     Neri to the pope of his day, petitioning that his church should
+     never be a parish. And below it was written that pope's promise,
+     also in his own hand, that it never should. This pope was St. Pius
+     V. Leo bowed to such authorities, said that he could not contend
+     against two saints, and altered his plans."--_Wiseman's Life of Leo
+     XII._
+
+     "S. Filippo Neri was good-humoured, witty, strict in essentials,
+     indulgent in trifles. He never commanded; he advised, or perhaps
+     requested: he did not discourse, he conversed: and he possessed, in
+     a remarkable degree, the acuteness necessary to distinguish the
+     peculiar merit of every character."--_Ranke._
+
+     "S. Filippo Neri laid the foundation of the Congregation of
+     Oratorians in 1551. Several priests and young ecclesiastics
+     associating themselves with him, began to assist him in his
+     conferences, and in reading prayers and meditations to the people
+     in the Church of the Holy Trinity. They were called Oratorians,
+     because at certain hours every morning and afternoon, by ringing a
+     bell, they called the people to the church to prayers and
+     meditations. In 1564, when the saint had formed his congregation
+     into a regular community, he preferred several of his young
+     ecclesiastics to holy orders; one of whom was the eminent Cæsar
+     Baronius, whom, for his sanctity, Benedict XIV., by a decree dated
+     on the 12th of January, 1745, honoured with the title of 'Venerable
+     Servant of God.' At the same time he formed his disciples into a
+     community, using one common purse and table, and he gave them rules
+     and statutes. He forbade any of them to bind themselves to this
+     state by vow or oath, that all might live together joined only by
+     the bands of fervour and holy charity; labouring with all their
+     strength to establish the kingdom of Christ in themselves by the
+     most perfect sanctification of their own souls, and to propagate
+     the same in the souls of others, by preaching, instructing the
+     ignorant, and teaching the Christian doctrine."--_Alban Butler._
+
+     "S. Filippo Neri exacted from his scholars and associates various
+     undignified outward acts. He required from a young Roman prince,
+     who wished to enjoy the distinction of being a member of his Order,
+     that he should walk through Rome with a fox's tail fastened on
+     behind: and when the prince declined to submit to this, he was
+     declined admission to the Order. Another was made to go through the
+     city without a coat; and another, with torn and tattered sleeves. A
+     nobleman took compassion on the last, and offered him a new pair of
+     sleeves: the youth declined, but afterwards, by command of the
+     master, was obliged gratefully to fetch and wear them. During the
+     building of the new church, he compelled his disciples to bring up
+     the materials like day labourers, and to lay their hands to the
+     work."--_Goethe, Romische Briefe._
+
+It was in the piazza in front of this church that (during the reign of
+Clement XIV.) a beautiful boy was wont to improvise wonderful verses to
+the admiration of the crowds who surrounded him. This boy was named
+Trapassi, and was the son of a grocer in the neighbourhood. The
+Arcadian Academy changed his name into Greek, and called him
+"Metastasio."
+
+From the corner of the piazza in front of the Chiesa Nuova, the Via
+Calabraga leads into the Via Monserrato, which it enters between Sta.
+Lucia del Gonfalone on the right, and S. Stefano in Piscinula on the
+left;--then, passing on the right S. Giacomo in Aino--behind which, and
+the Palazzo Ricci, is Santo Spirito dei Napolitani, a much frequented
+and popular little church--we reach _Sta. Maria di Monserrato_, built by
+Sangallo, in 1495, where St. Ignatius Loyola was wont to preach and
+catechise.
+
+Here, behind the altar, under a stone unmarked by any epitaph, repose at
+last the remains of Pope Alexander VI., Rodrigo Borgia
+(1492--1503),--the infamous father of the beautiful and wicked Cæsar and
+Lucretia Borgia, who is believed to have died from accidentally drinking
+in a vineyard-banquet the poison which he had prepared for one of his
+own cardinals. When exhumed and turned out of the pontifical vaults of
+St Peter's by Julius II., he found a refuge here in his national church.
+The bones of his uncle Calixtus III., Alfonso Borgia (1455--58), rest in
+the same grave.
+
+A little further, on the left, is the _Church of S. Tommaso degli
+Inglesi_, rebuilt 1870, on the site of a church founded by Offa, king of
+the East Saxons in 775, but destroyed by fire in 817. It was rebuilt,
+and was dedicated by Alexander III. (1159) to St. Thomas à Becket, who
+had lodged in the adjoining hospital when he was in Rome. Gregory XIII.,
+in 1575, united the hospital which existed here with one for English
+sailors on the Ripa Grande, dedicated to St. Edmund the Martyr, and
+converted them into a college for English missionaries.
+
+     "Nothing like a hospice for English pilgrims existed till the first
+     great Jubilee, when John Shepherd and his wife Alice, seeing this
+     want, settled in Rome, and devoted their substance to the support
+     of poor palmers from their own country. This small beginning grew
+     into sufficient importance for it to become a royal charity; the
+     King of England became its patron, and named its rector, often a
+     person of high consideration. Among the fragments of old monuments
+     scattered about the house by the revolution, and now collected and
+     arranged in a corridor of the college, is a shield surmounted by a
+     crown, and carved with the ancient arms of England, lions or
+     lionceaux, and fleur-de-lis, quarterly. This used formerly to be
+     outside the house, and under it was inscribed:
+
+        'Hæc conjuncta duo,
+          Successus debita legi,
+        Anglia dant, regi
+          Francia signa suo.
+    Laurentius Chance me fecit M.CCC.XII.'"
+
+    _Cardinal Wiseman._
+
+
+In the hall of the college are preserved portraits of Roman Catholics
+who suffered for their faith in England under Henry VIII. and Elizabeth.
+
+The small cloister has a beautiful tomb of Christopher Bainbrigg,
+archbishop of York, British envoy to Julius II., who died at Rome 1514,
+and a monument of Sir Thomas Dereham, ob. 1739. Against the wall is the
+monument of Martha Swinburne, a prodigy of nine years old, inscribed:
+
+     "Memoriæ Marthæ, Henrici et Marthæ Swinburne. Nat. Angliæ. ex.
+     Antiqua. et. Nobili. Familia. Caphæton. Northumbriæ. Parentes.
+     Moestiss. Filiæ. Carissimæ. Pr. Quæ. Ingenio. Excellenti. Forma.
+     Eximia. Incredibili. Doctrina. Moribus. Suavissimis. Vix. Ann.
+     viii. Men. xi. Tantum. Prærepta. Romæ. v. ID. SEPT. AN. MDCCLXVIII.
+
+     "Martha Swinburne, born Oct. X. MDCCLVIII. Died Sept. VIII.
+     MDCCLXVII. Her years were few, but her life was long and full. She
+     spoke English, French, and Italian, and had made some progress in
+     the Latin tongue; knew the English and Roman histories, arithmetic,
+     and geography; sang the most difficult music at sight with one of
+     the finest voices in the world, was a great proficient on the
+     harpsichord, wrote well, and danced many sorts of dances with
+     strength and elegance. Her face was beautiful and majestic, her
+     body a perfect model, and all her motions graceful. Her docility in
+     doing everything to make her parents happy, could only be equalled
+     by her sense and aptitude. With so many perfections, amidst the
+     praises of all persons, from the sovereign down to the beggar in
+     the street, her heart was incapable of vanity; affectation and
+     arrogance were unknown to her. Her beauty and accomplishments made
+     her the admiration of all beholders, the love of all that enjoyed
+     her company. Think, then, what the pangs of her wretched parents
+     must be on so cruel a separation. Their only comfort is in the
+     certitude of her being completely happy beyond the reach of pain,
+     and for ever freed from the miseries of this life. She can never
+     feel the torments they endure for the loss of a beloved child.
+     Blame them not for indulging an innocent pride in transmitting her
+     memory to posterity as an honour to her family and to her native
+     country England. Let this plain character, penned by her
+     disconsolate father, draw a tear of pity from every eye that
+     peruses it."
+
+The arm of St. Thomas à Becket is the chief "relic" preserved here.
+
+At the end of the street are two exceedingly ugly little churches--very
+interesting from their associations. On the right is _St. Girolamo della
+Carità_, founded on the site of the house of Sta. Paula, where she
+received St Jerome upon his being called to Rome from the Thebaid by
+Pope Damasus in 392. Here he remained for three years, till, embittered
+by the scandal excited by his residence in the house of the widow, he
+returned to his solitude.
+
+In 1519 S. Filippo Neri founded here a _Confraternity_ for the
+distribution of dowries to poor girls, for the assistance of debtors,
+and for the maintenance of fourteen priests for the visitation and
+confession of the sick.
+
+     "Lorsque St. Philippe de Neri fut prêtre, il alla se loger à
+     Saint-Jerôme _della Carità_, où il demeura trente-cinq ans, dans la
+     société des pieux ecclésiastiques qui administraient les
+     sacrements dans cette paroisse. Chaque soir, Philippe ouvrait, dans
+     sa chambre qui existe encore, des conférences sur tous les points
+     du dogme catholique; les jeunes gens affluaient à ces saintes
+     réunions: on y voyait Baronius; Bordini, qui fut archevêque;
+     Salviati, frère du cardinal; Tarugia, neveu du pape Jules III. Un
+     désir ardent d'exercer ensemble le ministère de la prédication et
+     les devoirs de la charité porta ces pieux jeunes gens à vivre en
+     commun, sous la discipline du vertueux prêtre, dont le parole était
+     si puissante sur leurs coeurs."--_Gournerie._
+
+The masterpiece of Domenichino, the Last Communion of St. Jerome, in
+which Sta. Paula is introduced kissing the hand of the dying saint, hung
+in this church till carried off to Paris by the French.
+
+Opposite this is the _Church of Sta. Brigitta_, on the site of the
+dwelling of the saint, a daughter of the house of Brahé, and wife of
+Walfon, duke of Nericia, who came hither in her widowhood, to pass her
+declining years near the Tomb of the Apostles. With her, lived her
+daughter St. Catherine of Sweden, who was so excessively beautiful, and
+met with so many importunities in that wild time (1350), that she made a
+vow never to leave her own roof except to visit the churches. The
+crucifix, prayer-book, and black mantle of St. Bridget are preserved
+here.[302]
+
+     "St. Bridget exercised a reformatory influence as well upon the
+     higher class of the priesthood in Rome as in Naples. For she did
+     not alone satisfy herself with praying at the graves of the
+     martyrs, she earnestly exhorted bishops and cardinals, nay, even
+     the pope himself, to a life of the true worship of God and of good
+     works, from which they had almost universally fallen, to devote
+     themselves to worldly ambition. She awoke the consciences of many,
+     as well by her prayers and remonstrances, as by her example. For
+     she herself, of a rich and noble race, that of a Brahé, one of the
+     nobles in Sweden, yet lived here in Rome, and laboured like a truly
+     humble servant of Christ. 'We must walk barefoot over pride, if we
+     would overcome it,' said she, and Brigitta Brahé did so; and, in so
+     doing, overcame those proud hearts, and won them to
+     God."--_Frederika Bremer._
+
+We now reach the _Palazzo Farnese_,--the most magnificent of all the
+Roman palaces,--begun by Paul III., Alessandro Farnese (1534--50), and
+finished by his nephew, Cardinal Alessandro Farnese. Its architects were
+Antonio di Sangallo, Michael Angelo, and Giacomo della Porta, who
+finished the façade towards the Tiber. The materials were plundered
+partly from the Coliseum and partly from the theatre of Marcellus; the
+granite basons of the fountains in front are from the baths of
+Caracalla. The immense size of the blocks of travertine used in the
+building give it a solid grandeur.
+
+This palace was inherited by the Bourbon kings of Naples by descent from
+Elizabetta Farnese, who was the last of her line, and it has for the
+last few years been the residence of the Neapolitan Court, who have
+lived here in the utmost seclusion since their exile. For this reason
+the palace is now very seldom shown. Its vast halls are painted with the
+masterpieces of Annibale Caracci--huge mythological subjects,--and a few
+frescoes by Guido, Domenichino, Daniele da Volterra, Taddeo Zucchero,
+and others; but there has not been much to see since the dispersion of
+the Farnese gallery of sculpture, of which the best pieces (the Bull,
+Hercules, Flora, &c.) are in the museum at Naples. In the courtyard is
+the sarcophagus which is said once to have held the remains of Cecilia
+Metella.
+
+     "The painting the gallery at the Farnese Palace is supposed to have
+     partly caused the death of Caracci. Without fixing any price he set
+     about it, and employed both himself and all his best pupils nearly
+     seven years in perfecting the work, never doubting that the Farnese
+     family, who had employed him, would settle a pension upon him, or
+     keep him in their service. When his work was finished they paid him
+     as you would pay a house-painter, and this ill-usage so deeply
+     affected him, that he took to drinking, and never painted anything
+     great afterwards."--_Miss Berry's Journals._
+
+Behind the Palazzo Farnese runs the _Via Giulia_, which contains the
+ugly fountain of the Mascherone. Close to the arch which leads to the
+Farnese gardens is the church of _Sta. Maria della Morte_, or _Dell'
+Orazione_, built by Fuga. It is in the hands of a pious confraternity
+who devote themselves to the burial of the dead.
+
+     "L'église de la _Bonne-Mort_ a son caveau, décoré dans le style
+     funèbre comme le couvent des Capucins. On y conserve aussi
+     élégamment que possible les os des noyés, asphyxiés et autres
+     victimes des accidents. La confrérie de la _Bonne-Mort_ va chercher
+     les cadavres; un sacristain assez adroit les dessèche et les
+     dispose en ornements. J'ai causé quelque temps avec cet artiste:
+     'Monsieur,' me disait-il, 'je ne suis heureux qu'ici, au milieu de
+     mon oeuvre. Ce n'est pas pour les quelques écus que je gagne tous
+     les jours en montrant la chapelle aux étrangers; non; mais ce
+     monument que j'entretiens, que j'embellie, que j'égaye par mon
+     talent, est devenu l'orgueil et la joie de ma vie.' Il me montra
+     ses matériaux, c'est-à-dire quelques poignées d'ossements jetés en
+     tas dans un coin, fit l'éloge de la pouzzolane, et témoigna de son
+     mépris pour la chaux. 'La chaux brûle les os,' me dit-il, 'elle les
+     fait tomber en poussière. On ne peut faire rien de bon avec les os
+     qui ont été dans la chaux. C'est de la drogue
+     (_robbaccia_).'"--_About._
+
+Beyond the arch is the _Palazzo Falconieri_ (with falcons at the
+corners), built by Borromini about 1650. There is something rather
+handsome in its tall three-arched loggia, as seen from the back of the
+courtyard, which overhangs the Tiber opposite the Farnesina. Cardinal
+Fesch (uncle of Napoleon I.) lived here, and here formed his fine
+gallery of pictures.
+
+     "The whole of Cardinal Fesch's collection was dispersed at his
+     death, having been vainly offered by him, during the last years of
+     his life, for sale to the English government, for an annuity of
+     4000_l._ per annum."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+Further on are the _Carceri Nuove_, prisons established by Innocent X.
+(appropriately reached by the Via del Malpasso), and then the _Palazzo
+Sacchetti_, built by Antonio da Sangallo for his own residence, and
+adorned by him with the arms of his patron, Paul III., and the grateful
+inscription, "Tu mihi quodcumque hoc rerum est." The collection of
+statues which was formed here by Cardinal Ricci, was removed to the
+Capitol by Benedict XIV., and became the foundation of the present
+Capitoline collection.
+
+In front of the Palazzo Farnese, beyond its own piazza, is that known as
+the _Campo di Fiore_, a centre of commerce among the working classes.
+Here the most terrible of the Autos da Fé were held by the Dominicans,
+in which many Jews and other heretics were burnt alive.
+
+     One of the most remarkable sufferers here was Giordano Bruno, who
+     was born at Nola, A.D. 1550. His chief heresy was ardent advocacy
+     of the Copernican system,--the author of which had died ten years
+     before his birth. He was also strongly opposed to the philosophy of
+     Aristotle, and gave great offence by setting forth views of his
+     own, which strongly tended to pantheism. He visited Paris, England,
+     and Germany, and everywhere excited hostility by the uncompromising
+     expression of his opinions. It was at Venice that he first came
+     into the power of his ecclesiastical enemies. After six years of
+     imprisonment in that city, he was brought to Rome to be put to
+     death. His execution took place in the Campo di Fiore on the 17th
+     of February, 1600, in the presence of an immense concourse. It was
+     noted that when the monks offered him the crucifix as he was led to
+     the stake, he turned away and refused to kiss it. This put the
+     finishing touch to his career, in the estimation of all beholders.
+     Scioppus, the Latinist, who was present at the execution, with a
+     sarcastic allusion to one of Bruno's heresies, the infinity of
+     worlds, wrote, "The flames carried him to those worlds which he had
+     imagined."[303]
+
+On the left of this piazza is the gigantic _Palace of the Cancelleria_,
+begun by Cardinal Mezzarota, and finished in 1494 by Cardinal Riario,
+from designs of Bramante. The huge blocks of travertine of which it is
+built were taken from the Coliseum. The colonnades have forty-four
+granite pillars, said to have belonged to the theatre of Pompey. The
+roses with which their (added) capitals are adorned are in reference to
+the arms of Cardinal Riario, nephew of Sixtus IV.
+
+This palace was the seat of the Tribunal of the Cancelleria Apostolica.
+In June, 1848, the Roman Parliament, summoned by Pius IX., was held
+here. In July, while the deputies were seated here, the mob burst into
+the council-chamber, and demanded the instant declaration of war against
+Austria. On the 16th of November, its staircase was the scene of the
+murder of Count Rossi.
+
+     "C'était le 16 Novembre, 1848, le ministre de Pie IX., voué dès
+     longtemps à la mort, dont la presse séditieuse disait: 'Si la
+     victime condamnée parvient à s'échapper, elle sera poursuivie sans
+     relâche, en tout lieu, le coupable sera frappé par une main
+     invisible, se fût-il réfugié sur le sein de sa mère ou dans le
+     tabernacle du Christ.'
+
+     "Dans la nuit du 14 au 15 Novembre, de jeunes étudiants, réunis
+     dans cette pensée, s'exercent sans frémir sur un cadavre apporté à
+     prix d'or au théâtre Capranica, et quand leurs mains infâmes furent
+     devenues assez sûres pour le crime, quand ils sont certains
+     d'atteindre au premier coup la veine jugulaire, chacun se rend à
+     son poste--'Gardez-vous d'aller au Palais Législatif, la mort vous
+     y attend,' fait dire au ministre une Française alors à Rome, Madame
+     la Comtesse de Menon: 'Ne sortez pas, ou vous serez assassiné!' lui
+     écrit de son côté la Duchesse de Rignano. Mais l'intrépide Rossi,
+     n'écoutant que sa conscience, arrive au Quirinal. A son tour le
+     pape le conjure d'être prudent, de ne point s'exposer, afin, lui
+     dit-il, 'd'éviter à nos ennemis un grand crime, et à moi une
+     immense douleur.'--'Ils sont trop lâches, ils n'oseront pas.' Pie
+     IX. le bénit et il continue de se diriger vers la chancellerie....
+
+     " ... Sa voiture s'arrête, il descend au milieu d'hommes sinistres,
+     leur lance un regard de dédain, et continuant sans crainte ni
+     peur, il commence à mouter; la foule le presse en sifflant, l'un le
+     frappe sur l'épaule gauche, d'un mouvement instinctif, il retourne
+     la tête, découvrant la veine fatale, il tombe, se relève, monte
+     quelques marches, et retombe inondé de sang."--_M. de Bellevue._
+
+Entered from the courtyard of the palace is the _Church of SS. Lorenzo e
+Damaso_, removed by Cardinal Riario in 1495, from another site, where it
+had been founded in 560 by the sainted pope Damasus. It consists of a
+short nave and aisles, and is almost square, with an apse and chapels.
+The doors are by Vignola. At the end of the left aisle is a curious
+black virgin, much revered. Opening from the right aisle is the chapel
+of the Massimi, with several tombs; a good modern monument of Princess
+Gabrielli, &c. Against the last pilaster is a seated statue of S.
+Hippolytus, Bishop of Porto, taken from that at the Lateran. His relics
+are preserved here, with those of S. Giovanni Calabita, and many other
+saints. The tomb of Count Rossi is also here, inscribed "Optimam mihi
+causam tuendam assumpsi, miserebitur Deus." The story of his death is
+told in the words: "Impiorum consilio meditata cæde occubuit." He was
+embalmed and buried on the very night of his murder, for fear of further
+outrage. St Francis Xavier used to preach in this church in the
+sixteenth century.
+
+Standing a little back from the street, in the Via de' Baullari, is a
+pretty little palace, carefully finished in all its details, and
+attributed to Baldassare Peruzzi. It is sometimes called _Palazzetto
+Farnese_, sometimes _Palazzo Linote_, and is now almost in a state of
+ruin.
+
+Turning to the left, in front of the Palazzo Farnese, we reach the
+Piazza Capo di Ferro, one side of which is occupied by the _Palazzo
+Spada alla Regola_, built in 1564, by Cardinal Capodifero, but
+afterwards altered and adorned by Borromini. The courtyard is very rich
+in sculptured ornament The palace is always visible, but has a rude and
+extortionate porter.
+
+In a picturesque and dimly-lighted hall on the first-floor, partially
+hung with faded tapestries, is the famous statue believed to be that of
+Pompey, at the foot of which Julius Cæsar fell. Suetonius narrates that
+it was removed by Augustus from the Curia, and placed upon a marble
+Janus in front of the basilica. Exactly on that spot was the existing
+statue found, lying under the partition-wall of two houses, whose
+proprietors intended to evade disputes by dividing it, when Cardinal
+Capodifero interfered, and in return received it as a gift from Pope
+Julius III., who bought it for 500 gold crowns.
+
+    "And them, dread statue! yet existent in
+    The austerest form of naked majesty,--
+    Thou who beheldest 'mid the assassins' din,
+    At thy bathed base the bloody Cæsar lie,
+    Folding his robe in dying dignity,
+    An offering to thine altar from the queen
+    Of gods and men, great Nemesis! did he die,
+    And thou, too, perish, Pompey? have ye been
+    Victors of countless kings, or puppets of a scene?"
+
+    _Byron, Childe Harold._
+
+     "I saw in the Palazzo Spada, the statue of Pompey: the statue at
+     whose base Cæsar fell. A stem, tremendous figure! I imagined one of
+     greater finish: of the last refinement: full of delicate touches:
+     losing its distinctness in the giddy eyes of one whose blood was
+     ebbing before it, and settling into some such rigid majesty as
+     this, as Death came creeping over the upturned face."--_Dickens._
+
+     "Cæsar was persuaded at first by the entreaties of his wife
+     Calpurnia, who had received secret warning of the plot, to send an
+     excuse to the senate; but afterwards, being ridiculed by Brutus for
+     not going, was carried thither in a litter.... At the moment when
+     Cæsar descended from his litter at the door of the hall, Popilius
+     Læna approached him, and was observed to enter into earnest
+     conversation with him. The conspirators regarded one another, and
+     mutually revealed their despair with a glance. Cassius and others
+     were grasping their daggers beneath their robes; the last resource
+     was to despatch themselves. But Brutus, observing that the manner
+     of Popilius was that of one supplicating rather than warning,
+     restored his companions' confidence with a smile. Caesar entered;
+     his enemies closed in a dense mass around him, and while they led
+     him to his chair kept off all intruders. Trebonius was specially
+     charged to detain Antonius in conversation at the door. Scarcely
+     was the victim seated, when Tillius Cimber approached with a
+     petition for his brother's pardon. The others, as was concerted,
+     joined in the supplication, grasping his hands, and embracing his
+     neck. Cæsar at first put them gently aside, but, as they became
+     more importunate, repelled them with main force. Tillius seized his
+     toga with both hands, and pulled it violently over his arms. Then
+     P. Casca, who was behind, drew a weapon, and grazed his shoulder
+     with an ill-directed stroke. Cæsar disengaged one hand, and
+     snatched at the hilt, shouting, 'Cursed Casca, what means
+     this?'--'Help,' cried Casca to his brother Lucius, and at the same
+     moment the others aimed each his dagger at the devoted object.
+     Cæsar for an instant defended himself, and even wounded one of his
+     assailants with his stylus; but when he distinguished Brutus in the
+     press, and saw the steel flashing in his hand also, 'What, thou
+     too, Brutus!' he exclaimed, let go his hold of Casca, and drawing
+     his robe over his face, made no further resistance. The assassins
+     stabbed him through and through, for they had pledged themselves,
+     one and all, to bathe their daggers in his blood. Brutus himself
+     received a wound in their eagerness and trepidation. The victim
+     reeled a few paces, propped by the blows he received on every side,
+     till he fell dead at the foot of Pompeius' statue."--_Merivale_,
+     ch. xxi.
+
+The collection of pictures in this palace is little worth seeing. Among
+its other sculptures are eight grand reliefs, which, till 1620, were
+turned upside down, and used as a pavement in Sant' Agnese fuori Mura;
+and a fine statue of Aristotle.
+
+     "Aristote est à Rome, vous pouvons l'aller voir au palais Spada,
+     tel que le peignent ses biographes et des vers de Christodore sur
+     une statue qui était à Constantinople, les jambes grêles, les joues
+     maigres, le bras hors du manteau, _exserto brachio_, comme dit
+     Sidoine Apollinaire d'une autre statue qui était à Rome. Le
+     philosophe est ici sans barbe aussi bien que sur plusieurs pierres
+     gravées; on attribuait à Aristote l'habitude de se raser, rare
+     parmi les philosophes et convenable à un sage qui vivait à la cour.
+     Du reste, c'est bien là _le maître de ceux qui savent_, selon
+     l'expression de Dante, corps usé par l'étude, tête petite mais qui
+     enferme et comprend tout."--_Ampère_, _Hist. Rom._ iii. 547.
+
+A little further, on the right, is the _Church of the Trinità dei
+Pellegrini_, built in 1614; the façade designed by Francesco de'
+Sanctis. It contains a picture of the Trinity by _Guido_.
+
+The hospital attached to this church was founded by S. Filippo Neri for
+receiving and nourishing pilgrims of pious intention, who had come from
+more than sixty miles' distance, for a space of from three to seven
+days. It is divided into two parts, for males and females. Here, during
+the Holy Week, the feet of the pilgrims are publicly washed, those of
+the men by princes, cardinals, &c., those of the women by queens,
+princesses, and other ladies of rank. In this case the washing is a
+reality, the feet not having been "prepared beforehand," as for the
+Lavanda at St Peter's.
+
+An authentic portrait of S. Filippo Neri is preserved here, said to have
+been painted surreptitiously by an artist who happened to be one of the
+inmates of the hospital. When S. Filippo saw it, he said, "You should
+not have stolen me unawares."
+
+The building in front of this church is the _Monte di Pietà_, founded by
+the Padre Calvo, in the fifteenth century, to preserve the people from
+suffering under the usury of the Jews. It is a government establishment,
+where money is lent at the rate of five per cent. to every class of
+person. Poor people, especially "Donne di facenda," who have no work in
+the summer, thankfully avail themselves of this and pawn their
+necklaces and earrings, which they are able to redeem when the means of
+subsistence come back with the return of the forestieri. Many Roman
+servants go through this process annually, and though the Monte di Pietà
+is often a scene of great suffering when unredeemed goods are sold for
+the benefit of the establishment, it probably in the main serves to
+avert much evil from the poorer classes.
+
+A short distance further, following the Via dei Specchi, surrounded by
+miserable houses (in one of which is a beautiful double gothic window,
+divided by a twisted column), is the small _Church of Sta. Maria in
+Monticelli_, which has a fine low campanile of 1110. Admission may
+always be obtained through the sacristy to visit the famous
+"miracle-working" picture called "Gesù Nazareno," a modern half-length
+of Our Saviour, with the eyelids drooping and half-closed. By an
+illusion of the painting, the eyes, if watched steadily, appear to open
+and then slowly to close again as if falling asleep,--in the same way
+that many English family portraits appear to follow the living
+bystanders with their eyes; but the effect is very curious. In the case
+of this picture, the pope turned Protestant, and disapproving of the
+attention it excited, caused its secret removal. Remonstrance was made,
+that the picture had been a "regalo" to the church, and ought not to be
+taken away, and when it was believed to be sufficiently forgotten, it
+was sent back by night. The mosaics in the apse of this obscure church
+are for the most part quite modern, but enclose a very grand and
+expressive head of the Saviour of the World, which dates from 1099, when
+it was ordered by Pope Paschal II.
+
+A little to the left of this church is the _Palazzo Santa Croce_. This
+palace will bring to mind the murder of the Marchesa Costanza Santa
+Croce, by her two sons (because she would not name them her heirs), on
+the day when the fate of Beatrice Cenci was trembling in the balance,
+which brought about her condemnation--the then pope, Clement VIII.,
+determining to make her terrible punishment "an example to all
+parricides."
+
+Prince Santa Croce claims to be a direct descendant of Valerius
+Publicola, the "friend of the people," who is commemorated in the name
+of a neighbouring church, "Sancta Maria de Publicolis."
+
+This is one of the few haunted houses in Rome: it is said that by night
+two statues of Santa Croce cardinals descend from their pedestals, and
+rattle their marble trains about its long galleries.
+
+Hence a narrow street leads to the _Church of S. Carlo a Catinari_,
+built in the seventeenth century, from designs of Rosati and Soria. It
+is in the form of a Greek cross. The very lofty cupola is adorned with
+frescoes of the cardinal virtues by _Domenichino_, and a fresco of S.
+Carlo, by _Guido_, once on the façade of the church, is now preserved in
+the choir. Over the high altar is a large picture by _Pietro da
+Cortona_, of S. Carlo in a procession during the plague at Milan. In the
+first chapel on the right, is the Annunciation, by _Lanfranco_; in the
+second chapel, on the left, the Death of St. Anna, by _Andrea Sacchi_.
+On the pilaster of the last chapel on the right is a good modern tomb,
+with delicate detail. The cord which S. Carlo Borromeo wore round his
+neck in the penitential procession during the plague at Milan, is
+preserved as a relic here. The Catinari, from whom this church is named,
+were makers of wooden dishes, who had stalls in the adjoining piazza,
+or sold their wares on its steps. The street opening from hence (Via de
+Giubbonari) contains on its right the Palazzo Pio; at the back of which
+are the principal remains of _The Theatre of Pompey_, which was once of
+great magnificence. In the portico (of a hundred columns) attached to
+this theatre, Brutus sate as prætor, on the morning of the murder of
+Julius Cæsar, and close by was the Curia, or senate-house, where:
+
+    ----"In his mantle muffling up his face,
+    Even at the base of Pompey's statue,
+    Which all the while ran blood, great Cæsar fell."[304]
+
+Behind the remains of the theatre, perhaps on the very site of the
+Curia, rises the fine modern _Church of S. Andrea della Valle_,[305]
+begun in 1591, by Olivieri, and finished by Carlo Maderno. The façade is
+by Carlo Rainaldi. The cupola is covered with frescoes by _Lanfranco_,
+those of the four Evangelists at the angles being by _Domenichino_, who
+also painted the flagellation and glorification of St. Andrew in the
+tribune. Beneath the latter are frescoes of events in the life of St.
+Andrew by _Calabrese_.
+
+     "In the fresco of the Flagellation, the apostle is bound by his
+     hands and feet to four short posts set firmly in the ground; one of
+     the executioners, in tightening a cord, breaks it, and falls back;
+     three men prepare to scourge him with thongs: in the foreground we
+     have the usual group of the mother and her frightened children.
+     This is a composition full of dramatic life and movement, but
+     unpleasing."--_Jameson's Sacred Art_, p. 229.
+
+In the second chapel on the left is the tomb of Giovanni della Casa,
+archbishop of Beneventum, 1556.
+
+The last piers of the nave are occupied by the tombs of Pius II., Eneas
+Sylvius Piccolomini (1458--64), and Pius III., Todeschini (1503),
+removed from the old basilica of St. Peter's. The tombs are hideous
+erections in four stages, by Niccolo della Guardia and Pietro da Todi.
+The epitaph of the famous Eneas Sylvius is as good as a biography.
+
+     "Pius II., sovereign pontiff, a Tuscan by nation, by birth a native
+     of Siena, of the family of the Piccolomini, reigned for six years.
+     His pontificate was short, but his glory was great. He reunited a
+     Christian Council (Basle) in the interests of the faith. He
+     resisted the enemies of the holy Roman see, both in Italy and
+     abroad. He placed Catherine of Siena amongst the saints of Christ.
+     He abolished the Pragmatic Sanction in France. He re-established
+     Ferdinand of Arragon in the kingdom of Sicily. He increased the
+     power of the Church. He established the alum mines which were
+     discovered near Talpha. Zealous for religion and justice, he was
+     also remarkable for his eloquence. As he was setting out for the
+     war which he had declared against the Turks, he died at Ancona.
+     There he had already his fleet prepared, and the doge of Venice,
+     with his senate, as companions in arms for Christ. Brought to Rome
+     by a decree of the fathers, he was laid in this spot, where he had
+     ordered the head of St. Andrew, which had been brought him from the
+     Peloponnese, to be placed. He lived fifty-eight years, nine months,
+     and twenty-seven days. Francis, cardinal of Siena, raised this to
+     the memory of his revered uncle. MCDLXIV."
+
+Pius III., who was the son of a sister of Eneas Sylvius, only reigned
+for twenty-six days. His tomb was the last to be placed in the old St.
+Peter's, which was pulled down by his successor.
+
+To the right, from S. Andrea della Valle runs the Via della Valle, on
+the right of which is the _Palazzo Vidoni_ (formerly called Caffarelli,
+and Stoppani), the lower portion of which was designed by Raphael, in
+1513, the upper floor being a later addition. There are a few
+antiquities preserved here, among them the "Calendarium Prænestinum" of
+Verrius Flaccus, being five months of a Roman calendar found by Cardinal
+Stoppani at Palestrina. At the foot of the stairs is a statue of Marcus
+Aurelius. At one corner of the palace on the exterior is the mutilated
+statue familiarly known as the _Abbate Luigi_, which was made to carry
+on witty conversation with the Madama Lucrezia near S. Marco, as Pasquin
+did with Marforio.
+
+To the left from St. Andrea della Valle runs the _Via S. Pantaleone_, on
+the right of which, cleverly fitting into an angle of the street, is the
+gloomy but handsome _Palazzo Massimo alle Colonne_, built _c._ 1526 by
+Baldassare Peruzzi. The semi-*circular portico has six Doric columns.
+The staircase and fountain are peculiar and picturesque. In the loggia
+is a fine antique lion.
+
+The palace is not often shown, but is a good specimen of one of the
+smaller Roman princely houses. In the drawing-*room, well placed, is the
+famous _Statue of the Discobolus_, a copy of the bronze statue of Myron,
+found in 1761, upon the Esquiline, near the ruined nymphæum known as the
+Trophies of Marius. This is more beautiful and better preserved than the
+Discobolus of the Vatican, of which the head is modern.
+
+     "Le tête du discobole Massimi se retourne vers le bras qui lance le
+     disque, [Greek: apestramminon eis tên diskophoron]. Cette tête est
+     admirable, ce qui est encore une resemblance avec Myron, qui excellait
+     dans les têtes comme Polyclète dans les poitrines et Praxitèle dans
+     les bras."--_Ampère_, iii. 271.
+
+The entrance-hall has its distinctive dais and canopy adorned with the
+motto of the family "Cunctando Restituit," in allusion to the descent
+which they claim from the great dictator Fabius Maximus, who is
+described by Ennius as having "saved the republic by delaying."
+
+     "Napoléon interpella un Massimo avec cette brusquerie qui
+     intimidait tant de gens: 'Est il vrai,' lui dit-il, 'que vous
+     descendiez de Fabius-Maximus?'
+
+     "'--Je ne saurais le prouver,' répondit le noble romain, 'mais
+     c'est un bruit qui court depuis plus de mille ans dans notre
+     famille.'"--_About._
+
+On the second floor is a chapel in memory of the temporary resuscitation
+to life by S. Filippo Neri of Paul Massimo, a youth of fourteen, who had
+died of a fever, March 16th, 1584.
+
+     "S. Filippo Neri was the spiritual director of the Massimo family;
+     it is in his honour that the Palazzo Massimo is dressed up in
+     festal guise every 16th of March. The annals of the family narrate,
+     that the son and heir of Prince Fabrizio Massimo died of a fever at
+     the age of fourteen, and that St. Philip, coming into the room amid
+     the lamentations of the father, mother, and sisters, laid his hand
+     upon the brow of the youth, and called him by his name, on which he
+     revived, opened his eyes, and sate up--'Art thou unwilling to die?'
+     asked the saint. 'No,' sighed the youth. 'Art thou resigned to
+     yield thy soul to God?' 'I am.' 'Then go,' said Philip. 'Va, che
+     sii benedetto, e prega Dio per noi.'--The boy sank back on his
+     pillow with a heavenly smile on his face and expired."--_Jameson's
+     Monastic Orders._
+
+The back of the palace towards the Piazza Navona is covered with curious
+frescoes in distemper by _Daniele di Volterra._
+
+In buildings belonging to this palace, Pannartz and Schweinheim
+established the first printing-office in Rome in 1455. The rare editions
+of this time bear in addition to the name of the printers, the
+inscription, "In ædibus Petri de Maximis."
+
+     "Conrad Sweynheim et Arnold Pannartz s'établirent près de Subiaco,
+     au monastère de Sainte-Scholastique, qui était occupé par les
+     Bénédictins de leur nation, et publièrent successivement, avec le
+     concours des moines, les _OEuvres de Lactance_, la _Cité de Dieu_
+     de saint Augustin, et le traité _de Oratore_ de Cicéron. En 1467,
+     ils se transportèrent à Rome, au palais Massimi, où ils
+     s'associèrent Jean André de Bussi, évêque d'Aleria, qui avait
+     étudié sous Victorin de Feltre, et dont la science leur fut d'une
+     haute utilité pour la correction de leurs textes. Le savant évêque
+     leur donnait son temps, ses veilles:--'Malheureux métier,'
+     disait-il, 'qui consiste non pas à chercher des perles dans le
+     fumier, mais du fumier parmi les perles!'--Et cependant il s'y
+     adonnait avec passion, sans même y trouver l'aisance. Les livres,
+     en effet, se vendirent d'abord si mal que Jean-André de Bussi
+     n'avait pas toujours de quoi se faire faire la barbe. Les premiers
+     livres qu'il publia chez Conrad et Arnold furent la _Grammaire de
+     Donatus_, à trois cents exemplaires, et les _Épitres familières de
+     Cicéron_, à cinq cent cinquante."--_Gournerie_, _Rome Chrétienne_,
+     ii. 79, 1.
+
+Further, on the right, is the modernized _Church of S. Pantaleone_,
+built originally in 1216 by Honorius III., and given by Gregory XV., in
+1641, to S. Giuseppe Calasanza, founder of the Order of the Scolopians,
+and of the institution of the Scuola Pia. He died in 1648, and is buried
+here in a porphyry sarcophagus.
+
+Adjoining this, is the very handsome _Palazzo Braschi_, the last result
+of papal nepotism in Rome,--built at the end of the last century by
+Morelli, for the Duke Braschi, nephew of Pius VI. The staircase, which
+is, perhaps, the finest in Rome, is adorned with sixteen columns of red
+oriental granite. Annual subscription balls for charities are held in
+this palace.
+
+At the further corner of the Braschi palace stands the mutilated but
+famous statue called Pasquino, from a witty tailor, who once kept a shop
+opposite, and who used to entertain his customers with all the clever
+scandal of the day. After the tailor's death his name was transferred to
+the statue, on whose pedestal were appended witty criticisms on passing
+events, sometimes in the form of dialogues which Pasquino was supposed
+to hold with his friend Marforio, another statue at the foot of the
+Capitol. From the repartees appended to this statue the term Pasquinade
+is derived.
+
+Pasquin has naturally been regarded as a mortal enemy by the popes, who,
+on several occasions, have made vain attempts to silence him. The
+bigoted Adrian VI. wished to have the statue burnt and then thrown into
+the Tiber, but it was saved by the suggestion of Ludovico Suessano, that
+his ashes would turn into frogs, who would croak louder than he had
+done. When Marforio, in the hope of stopping the dialogues, was shut up
+in the Capitoline museum, the pope attempted to incarcerate Pasquino
+also, but he was defended by his proprietor, Duke Braschi. Among
+offensive Pasquinades which have been placed here are:
+
+    "Venditur hic Christus, venduntur dogmata Petri,
+    Descendam infernum ne quoque vendar ego."
+
+Among the earliest Pasquinades were those against the venality and evil
+life of Alexander VI. (Rodrigo Borgia, 1492--1503):
+
+    "Vendit Alexander claves, altaria, Christum:
+    Emerat ille prius, vendere jure potest."
+
+and,
+
+    "Sextus Tarquinius, Sextus Nero--Sextus et iste;
+    Semper sub Sextis perdita Roma fuit."
+
+and, upon the body of his son Giovanni, murdered by his brother Cæsar
+Borgia, being fished up on the following day from the Tiber:
+
+    "Piscatorem hominum re te non, Sexte, putemus,
+    Piscaris natum retibus ecce tuum."
+
+In the reign of the warlike Julius II. (1503--13), of whom it is said
+that he threw the keys of Peter into the Tiber, while marching his army
+out of Rome, declaring that the sword of Paul was more useful to him:
+
+    "Cum Petri nihil efficiant ad prælia claves,
+    Auxilio Pauli forsitan ensis erit."
+
+and, in allusion to his warlike beard:
+
+    "Huc barbam Pauli, gladium Pauli, omnia Pauli:
+    Claviger ille nihil ad mea vota Petrus."
+
+At a moment of great unpopularity:
+
+    "Julius est Romæ, quid abest? Date, numina, Brutum.
+    Nam quoties Romæ est Julius, ilia perit."
+
+In reference to the sale of indulgences and benefices by Leo X.:
+
+    "Dona date, astantes; versus ne reddite; sola
+    Imperat æthereis alma Moneta deis."
+
+and to his love of buffoons:
+
+    "Cur non te fingi scurram, Pasquille, rogasti?
+    Cum Romæ scurris omnia jam licent."
+
+and with reference to the death of Leo, suddenly, under suspicion of
+poison, and without the sacrament:
+
+    "Sacra sub extrema, si forte requiritis, horâ
+    Cur Leo non potuit sumere: vendiderat."
+
+On the death of Clement VII. (1534), attributed to the mismanagement of
+his physician, Matteo Curzio:
+
+    "Curtius occidit Clementem--Curtius auro
+    Donandus, per quem publica parta salus."
+
+To Paul III. (1534--50) who attempted to silence him, Pasquin replied:
+
+    "Ut canerent data multa olim sunt vatibus æra;
+    Ut taceam, quantum tu mihi, Paule, dabis."
+
+Upon the spoliation of ancient Rome by Urban VIII.:
+
+    "Quod non fecerunt barbari, fecerunt Barberini."
+
+Upon the passion of Innocent X. (1644--55) for his sister-in-law,
+Olympia Maldacchini:
+
+    "Magis amat Olympiam quam Olympum."
+
+Upon Christina of Sweden, who died at Rome, in 1689:
+
+    "Regina senza Regno,
+    Christiana senza Fede,
+    E Donna senza Vergogna."
+
+In reference to the severities of the Inquisition during the reign of
+Innocent XI. (1676--89):
+
+     "Se parliamo, in galera; se scriviamo, impiccati; se stiamo in
+     quiete, al santo uffizio. Eh!--che bisogna fare?"
+
+To Francis of Austria, on his visit to Rome:
+
+    "Gaudium urbis,--fletus provinciarum,--risus mundi."
+
+After an awful storm, and the plunder of the works of art by Napoleon
+occurring together:
+
+    "L'Altissimo in sù, ci manda la tempesta,
+    L'Altissimo qua giù, ci toglia quel che resta,
+        E fra le Due Altissimi,
+        Stiamo noi malissimi."
+
+During the stay of the French in Rome:
+
+    "I Francesi son tutti ladri."
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "Non tutti--ma Buona parte."
+
+Against the vain-glorious follies of Pius VI., Pasquin was especially
+bitter. Pius finished the sacristry of St. Peter's, and inscribed over
+its entrance, "Quod ad Templi Vaticani ornamentum publico vota
+flagitabant, Pius VI. fecit." The next day Pasquin retorted:
+
+    "Publica! mentiris! Non publica vota fuere,
+    Sed tumidi ingenii vota fuere tui."
+
+Upon his nepotism, when building the Braschi palace:
+
+    "Tres habuit fauces, et terno Cerberus ore
+    Latratus intra Tartara nigra dabat.
+    Et tibi plena fame tria sunt vel quatuor ora
+    Quæ nulli latrant, quemque sed illa vocant."
+
+And in allusion to the self-laudatory inscriptions of this pope upon all
+his buildings, at a time when the two-baiocchi loaf of the common people
+was greatly reduced in size; one of these tiny loaves was exhibited
+here, with the satirical notice, "Munificentia Pii Sexti."
+
+But perhaps the most remarkable of all Pasquin's productions is his
+famous Antithesis Christi:
+
+    "Christus regna fugit--Sed vi Papa subjugat urbem.
+    Spinosam Christus--Triplicem gerit ille coronam.
+    Abluit ille pedes--Reges his oscula præbent.
+    Vectigal solvit--Sed clerum hic eximit omnem.
+    Pavit oves Christus--Luxum hic sectatur inertem.
+    Pauper erat Christus--Regna hic petit omnia mundi.
+    Bajulat ille crucem--Hic servis portatur avaris.
+    Spernit opes Christus--Auri hic ardore tabescit.
+    Vendentes pepulit templo--Quos suscipit iste.
+    Pace venit Christus--Venit hic radiantibus armis.
+    Christus mansuetus venit--Venit ille superbus.
+    Quas leges dedit hic--Præsul dissolvit iniquus.
+    Ascendit Christus--Descendit ad infera Præsul."
+
+The statue called Pasquin is said to represent Menelaus with the body of
+Patroclus, and to be the same as two groups which still exist at
+Florence, but so little remains of either of these heroes, that it could
+only have been when overpowered by "L'esprit de contradiction," that
+Bernini protested that this was "the finest piece of ancient sculpture
+in Rome."
+
+     "A l'angle que forment deux rues de Rome se voit encore il
+     Pasquino, nom donné par le peuple à un des plus beaux restes de la
+     sculpture antique. Bernin, qui exagérait, disait le plus beau;
+     cette assertion fut sur le point d'attirer un duel à celui qui se
+     l'était permise. Tout homme qui s'avise d'avoir une opinion sur les
+     monuments de Rome s'applaudira pour son compte, en le regrettant
+     peut-être, qu'on ne prenne plus si à coeur les questions
+     archéologiques."--_Ampère, Hist. Rome_, iii. 440.
+
+     "Jan. 16, 1870: The public opinion of Rome has only one traditional
+     organ. It is that mutilated block of marble called Pasquin's statue
+     ... on which are mysteriously affixed by unknown hands the frequent
+     squibs of Roman mother-wit on the events of the day. That organ has
+     now uttered its cutting joke on the Fathers in Council. Some
+     mornings ago there was found pasted in big letters on this defaced
+     and truncated stump of a once choice statue the inscription,
+     'Libero come il Concilio.' The sarcasm is admirably to the
+     point."--_Times._
+
+Following the Via dell' Anima from hence, on the right, opposite the
+mediæval _Torre Mellina_, is the _Church of Sant' Agnese_. It was built
+in 1642 by Girolamo Rainaldi, in the form of a Greek cross, upon the
+site of the scaffold where St. Agnes, in her fourteenth year, was
+compelled to be burnt alive.[306] When
+
+     "The blessed Agnes, with her hands extended in the midst of the
+     flames, prayed thus: 'It is to thee that I appeal, to thee, the
+     all-powerful, adorable, perfect, terrible God. O my Father, it is
+     through thy most blessed Son that I have escaped from the menaces
+     of a sacrilegious tyrant, and have passed unblemished through
+     shameful abominations. And thus I come to thee, to thee whom I have
+     loved, to thee whom I have sought, and whom I have always
+     chosen."--_Roman Breviary._
+
+Then the flames, miraculously changed into a heavenly shower, refreshed
+instead of burning her, and dividing in two, and leaving her uninjured,
+consumed her executioners, and the virgin saint cried:--
+
+     "I bless Thee, O Father of my God and Saviour Jesus Christ, who, by
+     the power of this thy well-beloved Son, commanded the fire to
+     respect me."
+
+     "At this age, a young girl trembles at an angry look from her
+     mother; the prick of a needle draws tears as easily as a wound. Yet
+     fearless under the bloody hands of her executioners, Agnes is
+     immoveable under the heavy chains which weigh her down; ignorant of
+     death, but ready to die, she presents her body to the point of the
+     sword of a savage soldier. Dragged against her will to the altar,
+     she holds forth her arms to Christ through the fires of the
+     sacrifice; and her hand forms even in those blasphemous flames the
+     sign which is the trophy of a victorious Saviour. She presents her
+     neck and her two hands to the fetters which they bring for her, but
+     it is impossible to find any small enough to encircle her delicate
+     limbs."--_St. Ambrose._
+
+The statue of St. Sebastian in this church is an antique, altered by
+_Maini_, that of St. Agnes is by _Ercole Ferrata_; the bas-relief of St.
+Cecilia is by _Antonio Raggi_. Over the entrance is the half-length
+figure and tomb of Innocent X. (Gio. Battista Pamfili, 1644--55), an
+amiable but feeble pope, who was entirely governed by his strong-minded
+and avaricious sister-in-law, Olympia Maldacchini, who deserted him on
+his death-bed, making off with the accumulated spoils of his ten years'
+papacy, which enabled her son, Don Camillo, to build the Palazzo Doria
+Pamfili, in the Corso, and the beautiful Villa Doria Pamfili.[307]
+
+     "After the three days during which the body of Innocent remained
+     exposed at St. Peter's, say the memoirs of the time, no one could
+     be found who would undertake his burial. They sent to tell Donna
+     Olympia to prepare for him a coffin, and an escutcheon, but she
+     answered that she was a poor widow. Of all his other relations and
+     nephews, not one gave any sign of life; so that at length the body
+     was carried away into a chamber where the masons kept their tools.
+     Some one, out of pity, placed a lighted tallow-candle near the
+     head; and some one else having mentioned that the room was full of
+     rats, and that they might eat the corpse, a person was found who
+     was willing to pay for a watcher. And after another day had
+     elapsed, Monsignor Scotti, the majordomo, had pity upon him, and
+     prepared him a coffin of poplar-wood, and Monsignor Segni, Canon of
+     St. Peter's, who had been his majordomo, and whom he had dismissed,
+     returned him good for evil, and expended five crowns for his
+     burial."--_Gregorovius._
+
+Beneath the church are vaulted chambers, said to be part of the house of
+infamy where St. Agnes was publicly exposed[308] before her execution.
+
+     "As neither temptation nor the fear of death could prevail with
+     Agnes, Sempronius thought of other means to vanquish her
+     resistance; he ordered her to be carried by force to a place of
+     infamy, and exposed to the most degrading outrages. The soldiers,
+     who dragged her thither, stripped her of her garments; and when she
+     saw herself thus exposed, she bent down her head in meek shame and
+     prayed; and immediately her hair, which was already long and
+     abundant, became like a veil, covering her whole person from head
+     to foot; and those who looked upon her were seized with awe and
+     fear as of something sacred, and dared not lift their eyes. So they
+     shut her up in a chamber, and she prayed that the limbs which had
+     been consecrated to Jesus Christ should not be dishonoured, and
+     suddenly she saw before her a white and shining garment, with which
+     she clothed herself joyfully, praising God, and saying, 'I thank
+     thee, O Lord, that I am found worthy to put on the garment of thine
+     elect!' and the whole place was filled with miraculous light,
+     brighter than the sun at noon-day.
+
+            *       *       *       *       *
+
+     "The chamber, which, for her preservation, was filled with heavenly
+     light, has become, from the change of level all over Rome, as well
+     as from the position of the church, a subterranean cell, and is now
+     a chapel of peculiar sanctity, into which you descend by
+     torchlight. The floor retains the old mosaic, and over the altar is
+     a bas-relief, representing St. Agnes, with clasped hands, and
+     covered only by her long tresses, while two ferocious soldiers
+     drive her before them. The upper church, as a piece of
+     architecture, is beautiful, and rich in precious marbles and
+     antique columns. The works of art are all mediocre, and of the 17th
+     century, but the statue over her altar has considerable elegance.
+     Often have I seen the steps of this church, and the church itself,
+     so crowded with kneeling worshippers at matins and vespers, that I
+     could not make my way among them;--principally the women of the
+     lower orders, with their distaffs and market baskets, who had come
+     thither to pray, through the intercession of the patron saint, for
+     the gifts of meekness and chastity,--gifts not abounding in these
+     regions."--_Jameson's Sacred Art._
+
+Yorkshire maidens, anxious to know who their future spouse is to be,
+still consult St. Agnes on St Agnes' Eve, after 24 hours' abstinence
+from everything but pure spring water, in the distich:
+
+    "St. Agnes, be a friend to me,
+    In the boon I ask of thee;
+    Let me this night my husband see."
+
+Here, on the festival of St. Agnes, the papal choir sing the antiphons
+of the virgin saint, and the hymn "Jesu Corona Virginum."
+
+The front of Sant' Agnese opens upon the _Piazza Navona_, a vast oblong
+square on the site of the ancient Circus Agonalis, decorated with three
+fountains. That in the centre, by Bernini, supports an obelisk brought
+from the Circus of Maxentius, where it was erected in honour of
+Domitian. Around the mass of rock which supports the obelisk are figures
+of the gods of the four largest rivers (Danube, Nile, Ganges, Rio de la
+Plata). That of the Nile veiled his face, said Bernini, that he might
+not be shocked by the façade which was added by Borromini to the Church
+of St Agnes.
+
+     "Bernin s'ingéra de creuser un des fameux piliers de St. Pierre
+     pour y pratiquer un petit escalier montant à la tribune; aussitôt
+     le dôme prit coup et se fendit. On fut obligé de le relier tout
+     entier avec un cercle de fer. Ce n'est point raillerie, le cercle y
+     est encore; le mal n'a pas augmenté depuis. Par malheur pour le
+     pauvre cavalier, on trouva dans les Mémoires de Michel-Ange qu'il
+     avait recommandé, _sub poenâ capitis_, de ne jamais toucher aux
+     quatre piliers massifs faits pour supporter le dôme, sachant de
+     quelle masse épouvantable il allait les charger; le pape voulait
+     faire pendre Bernin, qui, pour se rédimer, inventa la fontaine
+     Navone."--_De Brosses._
+
+The lower fountain, also by Bernini, is adorned with tritons and the
+figure of a Moor. The great palace to the right of the church is the
+_Palazzo Pamfili_, built by Rainaldi for Innocent X. in 1650. It
+possesses a ceiling painted by _Pietro di Cortona_ with the adventures
+of Eneas. Its music-hall is still occasionally used for public
+concerts.
+
+It was in this palace that the notorious Olympia Maldacchini, foundress
+of the Pamfili fortunes, besported herself during the reign of her
+brother-in-law, Innocent X.
+
+     "The great object of Donna Olympia was to keep at a distance from
+     Innocent every person and every influence that could either lessen
+     her own, or go shares in the profits to be extracted from it. For
+     this, after all, was the great and ultimate scope of her exertions.
+     To secure the profits of the papacy in hard cash; this was the
+     problem. No appointment to office of any kind was made, except in
+     consideration of a proportionable sum paid down into her own
+     coffers. This often amounted to three or four years' revenue of the
+     place to be granted. Bishoprics and benefices were sold as fast as
+     they became vacant. One story is told of an unlucky disciple of
+     Simon, who on treating with the popess, for a very valuable see,
+     just fallen vacant, and hearing from her a price, at which it might
+     be his, far exceeding all he could command, persuaded the members
+     of his family to sell all they had for the purpose of making this
+     profitable investment. The price was paid, and the bishopric was
+     given to him, but with a fearful resemblance to the case of
+     Ananias, he died within the year; and his ruined family saw the see
+     a second time sold by the insatiable and incorrigible Olympia....
+     During the last year of Innocent's life, Olympia literally hardly
+     ever quitted him. Once a week, we read, she left the Vatican,
+     secretly by night, accompanied by several porters carrying sacks of
+     coin, the proceeds of the week's extortions and sales, to her own
+     palace. And, during these short absences, she used to lock the pope
+     into his chamber, and take the key with her!"--_Trollope's Life of
+     Olympia Pamfili._
+
+On the opposite side of the piazza, some architectural fragments denote
+the half-ruined _Church of S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli_ of the fifteenth
+century. It possesses a gothic rose window, which is almost unique in
+Rome. There is a handsome door on the other side towards the Via della
+Sediola. The lower end of the square near this is occupied by the
+_Palazzo Lancellotti_, built by Pirro Ligorio, behind which is the
+frescoed front of Palazzo Massimo, mentioned above. The Piazza Navona
+has been used as a market ever since 1447. In the hot months, the
+singular custom prevails of occasionally stopping the escape of water
+from the fountains, and so turning the square into a lake, through which
+the rich splash about in carriages, and eat ices and drink coffee in the
+water, while the poor look on from raised galleries. It is supposed that
+this practice is a remnant of the pleasures of the Naumachia, once
+annually exhibited almost on this very spot, formerly the Circus
+Agonalis.
+
+Vitale Mascardi gives an extraordinary account of the magnificent
+tournament held here in 1634 in honour of the visit of Prince Alexander
+of Poland, when the piazza was hung with draperies of gold and silver,
+and Donna Anna Colonna and Donna Costanza Barberini awarded gorgeous
+prizes of diamonds to noble and princely competitors.
+
+Nearly opposite Sant' Agnese, a short street leads (passing on the left,
+Arvotti's, the famous Roman-scarf shop) to the front of the _Palazzo
+Madama_, which is sometimes said to derive its name from Margaret of
+Parma, daughter of Charles V., who once occupied it, and sometimes from
+Catherine de' Medici, who also lived here, and under whom it was altered
+in its present form by Paolo Marucelli. The balcony towards the piazza
+is the scene every Saturday at noon of the drawing of the Roman lottery.
+
+     "In the middle of the balcony, on the rail, is fixed a glass
+     barrel, with a handle to turn it round. Behind it stand three or
+     four officials, who have been just now ushered in with a blast from
+     two trumpeters, also stationed in the balcony. Immediately behind
+     the glass barrel itself stands a boy of some twelve or thirteen
+     years, dressed in the white uniform of one of the orphan
+     establishments, with a huge white shovel hat. Some time is occupied
+     by the folding, and putting into the barrel, pieces of paper,
+     inscribed with the numbers, from one onwards. Each of these is
+     proclaimed, as folded and put in, by one of the officials who acts
+     as spokesman or crier. At last, after eighty-seven, eighty-eight,
+     and eighty-nine have been given out, he raises his voice to a
+     chant, and sings forth, _Numero novanta_, 'number ninety,' this
+     completing the number put in.
+
+     "And now, or before this, appears on the balcony another
+     character--no less a person than a Monsignore, who appears, not in
+     his ordinary, but in his more solemn official costume; and this
+     connects the ceremonial directly with the spiritual authority of
+     the realm. And now commences the drawing. The barrel having been
+     for some time turned rapidly round to shuffle the numbers, the
+     orphan takes off his hat, makes the sign of the cross, and having
+     waved his open hand in the air to show that it is empty, inserts it
+     into the barrel, and draws out a number, giving it to the
+     Monsignore, who opens it and hands it to the crier. This latter
+     then proclaims it--'_Prima-estratta, numero venti cinque_.' Then
+     the trumpets blow their blast, and the same is repeated four times
+     more: the proclamation varying each time, _Seconda estratta_,
+     _Terza_, _Quatra_, _Quinta_, etc., five numbers being thus the
+     whole drawn, out of ninety put in. This done, with various
+     expressions of surprise, delight, or disappointment from the crowd
+     below, the officials disappear, the square empties itself, and all
+     is as usual till the next Saturday at the same time....
+
+     "In almost every street in Rome are shops devoted to the purchase
+     of lottery tickets. Two numbers purchased with the double chance of
+     these two numbers turning up are called an _ambo_, and three
+     purchased with the treble chance of those three turning up, are
+     called a _terno_, and, of course, the higher and more perilous the
+     stake, the richer the prize, if obtained."--_Alford's Letters from
+     Abroad._
+
+     "Les étrangers qui viennent à Rome commencent par blâmer sévèrement
+     la loterie. Au bout de quelque temps, l'esprit de tolérance qui est
+     dans l'air pénètre peu-à-peu jusqu'au fond de leur cerveau; ils
+     excusent un jeu philanthropique qui fournit au pauvre peuple six
+     jours d'espérances pour cinq sous. Bientôt, pour se rendre compte
+     du mécanisme de la loterie, ils entrent euxmêmes dans un bureau, en
+     évitant de se laisser voir. Trois mois après, ils poursuivent
+     ouvertement une combinaison savante; ils ont une théorie
+     mathématique qu'ils signeraient volontiers de leur nom; ils donnent
+     des leçons aux nouveaux arrivés; ils érigent le jeu en principe et
+     jurent qu'un homme est impardonnable s'il ne laisse pas une porte
+     ouverte à la Fortune."--_About, Rome Contemporaine._
+
+The court at the back of the palazzo is now occupied by the General Post
+Office.
+
+Close by is the _Church of S. Luigi dei Francesi_, rebuilt 1589, with a
+façade by Giacomo della Porta. It contains a number of tombs of eminent
+Frenchmen who have died in Rome, and some good pictures.
+
+Following the right aisle, the second chapel has frescoes from the life
+of Sta. Cecilia, by _Domenichino_ (she gives clothes to the poor,--is
+crowned by an angel with her husband Valerian,--refuses to sacrifice to
+idols,--suffers martyrdom,--enters into heaven).
+
+     "Domenichino is often cold and studied in the principal subject,
+     while the subordinate persons have much grace, and a noble
+     character of beauty. Of this the two frescoes in S. Luigi at Rome,
+     from the life of Sta. Cecilia, are striking examples. It is not the
+     saint herself, bestowing her goods from a balcony, who contributes
+     the chief subject, but the masterly group of poor people struggling
+     for them below. The same may be said of the death of the saint,
+     where the admiration and grief of the bystanders are
+     inimitable."--_Kugler._
+
+     "Reclining on a couch, in the centre of the picture, her hand
+     pressed on her bosom, her dying eyes raised to heaven, the saint is
+     breathing her last; while female forms, of exquisite beauty and
+     innocence, are kneeling around, or bending over her. The noble
+     figure of an old man, whose clasped hands and bent brow seem to
+     bespeak a father's affection, appears on one side; and lovely
+     children, in all the playful graces of unconscious infancy, as
+     usual in Domenichino's paintings, by contrast heighten, yet
+     relieve, the deep pathos of the scene. From above, an angel--such
+     an angel as Domenichino alone knew how to paint, a cherub form of
+     light and loveliness--is descending on rapid wing, bearing to the
+     expiring saint the crown and palm of glory."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+The copy of Raphael's Sta. Cecilia over the altar is by _Guido_. The
+fourth chapel has on the right frescoes by _Girolamo Sicciolante_, on
+the left by _Pellegrino da Bologna_, the altar-piece is by _Giacomo del
+Conte_. The fifth chapel has on the right the monument of Agincourt (ob.
+1814), the famous archæologist, on the left that of Guerin the painter.
+
+The high altar has an Assumption by _Bassano_.
+
+The first chapel in the left aisle has a St. Sebastian by _Massei_. In
+the fifth chapel, of St. Matthew, three pictures by _Caravaggio_
+represent the vocation and martyrdom of that saint.
+
+     "The paintings of Caravaggio at S. Luigi belong to his most
+     comprehensive works. The Martyrdom of St Matthew, with the angel
+     with a palm branch squatting upon a cloud, and a boy running away,
+     screaming, though highly animated, is an offensive production. On
+     the other hand, the Calling of the Apostle may be considered as a
+     _genre_ picture of grand characteristic figures; for instance,
+     those of the money-changers and publican at the table; some of them
+     counting money, others looking up astonished at the entrance of the
+     Saviour."--_Kugler._
+
+     "Over the altar is St. Matthew writing his Gospel; he looks up at
+     the attendant angel, who is behind with outspread wings, and in the
+     act of dictating. On the left is the Calling of St. Matthew: the
+     saint, who has been counting money, rises with one hand on his
+     breast, and turns to follow the Saviour: an old man, with
+     spectacles on his nose, examines with curiosity the personage whose
+     summons has had such a miraculous effect: a boy is slyly
+     appropriating the money which the apostle has thrown down. The
+     third picture is the martyrdom of the saint, who, in the sacerdotal
+     habit, lies extended on a block; while a half-naked executioner
+     raises the sword, and several spectators shrink back with horror.
+     There is nothing dignified or poetical in these representations;
+     and though painted with all that power of effect which
+     characterized Caravaggio, then at the height of his reputation,
+     they have also his coarseness of feeling and execution: the priests
+     were (not without reason) dissatisfied; and it required all the
+     influence of his patron, Cardinal Giustiniani, to induce them to
+     retain the pictures in the church where we now see
+     them."--_Jameson's Sacred Art_, p. 146.
+
+Amongst the monuments scattered over this church are those of Cardinal
+d'Ossat, ambassador of Henry IV.; Cardinal de la Grange d'Arquien,
+father-in-law of Sobieski, who died at the age of 105; Cardinal de la
+Trémouille, ambassador of Louis XIV.; Madame de Montmorin, with an
+epitaph by Chateaubriand; and Claude Lorraine, who is buried at the
+Trinità di Monti.
+
+The pillars which separate the nave and aisles are of splendid Sicilian
+jasper. They were intended for S. Ignazio, but when the Order of the
+Jesuits was dissolved by Clement XIV., he presented them to S. Luigi.
+
+The site of this church, the Palazzo Madama, and their adjoining
+buildings, was once occupied by the baths of Nero. They are commemorated
+by the name of the small church "S. Salvatore in Thermis."
+
+In front of S. Luigi are the _Palaces Patrizi and Giustiniani_, and,
+following--to the right--the Via della Sediola, on the left is the
+entrance to the _University of the Sapienza_, founded by Innocent IV. in
+1244 as a law school. Its buildings were begun by Pius III. and Julius
+II., and extended by Leo X. on plans of Michael Angelo. The portico was
+built under Gregory XIII. by Giacomo della Porta. The northern façade
+was erected by Borromini, with the ridiculous church (S. Ivo), built in
+the form of a bee to flatter Urban VIII., that insect being his device.
+The building is called the Sapienza, from the motto, "Initium Sapientiæ
+timor Domini," engraved over the window above the principal entrance.
+Forty professors teach here all the different branches of law, medicine,
+theology, philosophy, and philology.
+
+Behind the Sapienza is the small _Piazza di S. Eustachio_, containing on
+three sides the Giustiniani, Lante, and Maccarini palaces, and
+celebrated for the festival of the Befana,[309] which takes place here.
+
+     "The Piazza and all the adjacent streets are lined with booths
+     covered with every kind of plaything for children. These booths are
+     gaily illuminated with rows of candles and the three-wick'd brass
+     _lucerne_ of Rome; and at intervals, painted posts are set into the
+     pavement, crowned with pans of grease, with a wisp of tow for
+     wick, from which flames blaze and flare about. Besides these,
+     numbers of torches carried about by hand lend a wavering and
+     picturesque light to the scene. By eight o'clock in the evening
+     crowds begin to fill the piazza and the adjacent streets. Long
+     before one arrives the squeak of penny-trumpets is heard at
+     intervals; but in the piazza itself the mirth is wild and furious,
+     and the din that salutes one's ears on entering is almost
+     deafening. The object of every one is to make as much noise as
+     possible, and every kind of instrument for this purpose is sold at
+     the booths. There are drums beating, _tamburelli_ thumping and
+     jingling, pipes squeaking, watchman's rattles clacking,
+     penny-trumpets and tin-horns shrilling, the sharpest whistles
+     shrieking,--and mingling with these is heard the din of voices,
+     screams of laughter, and the confused burr and buzz of a great
+     crowd. On all sides you are saluted by the strangest noises.
+     Instead of being spoken to, you are whistled at. Companies of
+     people are marching together in platoons, or piercing through the
+     crowd in long files, and dancing and blowing like mad on their
+     instruments. It is a perfect witches' Sabbath. Here, huge dolls
+     dressed as Polichinello or Pantaloon are borne about for sale,--or
+     over the heads of the crowd great black-faced jumping-jacks, lifted
+     on a stick, twitch themselves in fantastic fits,--or, what is more
+     Roman than all, long poles are carried about strung with rings of
+     hundreds of _Giambelli_ (a light cake, called jumble in English),
+     which are screamed for sale at a _mezzo baiocco_ each. There is no
+     alternative but to get a drum, whistle, or trumpet, and join in the
+     racket,--and to fill one's pocket with toys for the children, and
+     absurd presents for one's older friends. The moment you are once in
+     for it, and making as much noise as you can, you begin to relish
+     the jest. The toys are very odd, particularly the Roman whistles;
+     some of these are made of pewter, with a little wheel that whirls
+     as you blow; others are of terra-cotta, very rudely modelled into
+     every shape of bird, beast, or human deformity, each with a whistle
+     in its head, breast, or tail, which it is no joke to hear, when
+     blown close to your ears by a stout pair of lungs. The scene is
+     extremely picturesque. Above, the dark vault of night, with its far
+     stars, the blazing and flaring of lights below, and the great, dark
+     walls of the Sapienza and church looking down grimly upon the
+     mirth."--_Story's Roba di Roma._
+
+The _Church of S. Eustachio_ commemorates one, who, first a brave
+soldier of the army of Titus in Palestine, became master of the horse
+under Trajan, and general under Hadrian, and who suffered martyrdom for
+refusing to sacrifice to idols, by being roasted alive in a brazen bull
+before the Coliseum, with his wife Theophista, and his sons, Agapetus
+and Theophistus. The relics of these saints repose in a porphyry
+sarcophagus under the high altar. The stags' heads on the portico and on
+the apex of the gable refer to the legend of the conversion of St.
+Eustace.
+
+     "One day, while hunting in the forest, he saw before him a white
+     stag, of marvellous beauty, and he pursued it eagerly, and the stag
+     fled before him, and ascended a high rock. Then Placidus (Eustace
+     was called Placidus before his conversion), looking up, beheld,
+     between the horns of the stag, a cross of radiant light, and on it
+     the image of the crucified Redeemer; and being astonished and
+     dazzled by this vision, he fell on his knees, and a voice which
+     seemed to come from the crucifix cried to him, and said, 'Placidus!
+     why dost thou pursue me? I am Christ, whom thou hast hitherto
+     served without knowing me. Dost thou now believe?' And Placidus
+     fell with his face to the earth, and said, 'Lord, I believe!' And
+     the voice answered, saying, 'Thou shall suffer many tribulations
+     for my sake, and shalt be tried by many temptations; but be strong
+     and of good courage, and I will not forsake thee.' To which
+     Placidus replied, 'Lord, I am content. Do thou give me patience to
+     suffer!' And when he looked up again the glorious vision had
+     departed."--_Jameson's Sacred Art_, p. 792.
+
+A similar story is told of St. Hubert, St. Julian, and St. Felix.
+
+A fresco of St. Peter, by _Pierino del Vaga_, in this church, was much
+admired by Vasari, who dilates upon the boldness of its design, the
+simple folds of its drapery, its careful drawing and judicious
+treatment.
+
+Two streets lead from the Piazza S. Eustachio to--
+
+_The Pantheon_, the most perfect pagan building in the city, built B.C.
+27, by Marcus Agrippa, the bosom friend of Augustus Cæsar, and the
+second husband of his daughter Julia. The inscription in huge letters,
+perfectly legible from beneath, "M. AGRIPPA. L. F. COS. TERTIUM FECIT,"
+records its construction. Another inscription on the architrave, now
+almost illegible, records its restoration under Septimius Severus and
+his son Caracalla, _c._ 202, who, "Pantheum vetustate corruptum cum omni
+cultu restitverunt." Some authorities have maintained that the Pantheon
+was originally only a vast hall in the baths of Agrippa, acknowledged
+remains of which exist at no great distance; but the name "Pantheum" was
+in use as early as A.D. 59.
+
+In A.D. 399 the Pantheon was closed as a temple in obedience to a decree
+of the Emperor Honorius, and in 608 was consecrated as a Christian
+church by Pope Boniface IV., with the permission of the Emperor Phocas,
+under the title of _Sta. Maria ad Martyres_. To this dedication we owe
+the preservation of the main features of the building, though it had
+been terribly maltreated. In 663 the Emperor Constans, who had come to
+Rome with great pretence of devotion to its shrines and relics, and who
+only staid there twelve days, did not scruple, in spite of its religious
+dedication, to strip off the tiles of gilt bronze with which the roof
+was covered, and carry them off with him to Syracuse, where, upon his
+murder, a few years after, they fell into the hands of the Saracens. In
+1087 it was used by the anti-pope Guibert as a fortress, whence he made
+incursions upon the lawful pope, Victor III., and his protector, the
+Countess Matilda. In 1101, another anti-pope, Sylvester IV., was elected
+here. Pope Martin V., after the return from Avignon, attempted the
+restoration of the Pantheon by clearing away the mass of miserable
+buildings in which it was encrusted, and his efforts were continued by
+Eugenius IV., but Urban VIII. (1623--44), though he spent 15,000 scudi
+upon the Pantheon, and added the two ugly campaniles, called in
+derision "the asses' ears," of their architect, Bernini, did not
+hesitate to plunder the gilt bronze ceiling of the portico, 450,250 lbs.
+in weight, to make the baldacchino of St. Peter's, and cannons for the
+Castle of S. Angelo. Benedict XIV. (1740--58) further despoiled the
+building by tearing away all the precious marbles which lined the attic,
+to ornament other buildings.
+
+The Pantheon was not originally, as now, below the level of the piazza,
+but was approached by a flight of five steps. The portico, which is 110
+feet long and 44 feet deep, is supported by sixteen grand Corinthian
+columns of oriental granite, 36 feet in height. The ancient bronze doors
+remain. On either side are niches, once occupied by colossal statues of
+Augustus and Agrippa.
+
+     "Agrippa wished to dedicate the Pantheon to Augustus, but he
+     refused, and only allowed his statue to occupy a niche on the right
+     of the peristyle, while that of Agrippa occupied the niche on the
+     left."--_Merivale._
+
+The _Interior_ is a rotunda, 143 feet in diameter, covered by a dome. It
+is only lighted by an aperture in the centre, 28 feet in diameter. Seven
+great niches around the walls once contained statues of different gods
+and goddesses, that of Jupiter being the central figure. All the
+surrounding columns are of giallo-antico, except four, which are of
+pavonazzetto, painted yellow. It is a proof of the great value and
+rarity of giallo-antico, that it was always impossible to obtain more to
+complete the set.
+
+     "L'intérieur du Panthéon, comme l'extérieur, est parfaitement
+     conservé, et les édicules, placés dans le pourtour du temple
+     forment les chapelles de l'église. Jamais la simplicité ne fut
+     alliée à la grandeur dans une plus heureuse harmonie. Le jour,
+     tombant d'en haut et glissant le long des colonnes et des parois de
+     marbre, porte dans l'âme un sentiment de tranquillité sublime, et
+     donne à tous les objets, dit Serlio, un air de beauté. Vue du
+     dehors, la coupole de plomb qui a remplacé l'ancienne coupole de
+     bronze couverte de tuiles dorées, fait bien comprendre l'expression
+     de Virgile, lequel l'avait sous les yeux et peut-être en vue, quand
+     il écrivait:
+
+    ... 'Media testudine templi.'
+
+     En effet, cette coupole surbaissée ressemble tout à fait à la
+     carapace d'une tortue."--_Ampère, Emp._ i. 342.
+
+     "Being deep in talk, it so happened that they found themselves near
+     the majestic, pillared portico and huge black rotundity of the
+     Pantheon. It stands almost at the central point of the labyrinthine
+     intricacies of the modern city, and often presents itself before
+     the bewildered stranger when he is in search of other objects.
+     Hilda, looking up, proposed that they should enter.
+
+     "They went in, accordingly, and stood in the free space of that
+     great circle, around which are ranged the arched recesses and
+     stately altars, formerly dedicated to heathen gods, but
+     Christianized through twelve centuries gone by. The world has
+     nothing else like the Pantheon. So grand it is, that the pasteboard
+     statues over the lofty cornice do not disturb the effect, any more
+     than the tin crowns and hearts, the dusty artificial flowers, and
+     all manner of trumpery gewgaws, hanging at the saintly shrines. The
+     rust and dinginess that have dimmed the precious marble on the
+     walls; the pavement, with its great squares and rounds of porphyry
+     and granite, cracked crosswise and in a hundred directions, showing
+     how roughly the troublesome ages have trampled here; the grey dome
+     above, with its opening to the sky, as if heaven were looking down
+     into the interior of this place of worship, left unimpeded for
+     prayers to ascend the more freely: all these things make an
+     impression of solemnity, which St. Peter's itself fails to produce.
+
+     "'I think,' said Kenyon, 'it is to the aperture in the dome--that
+     great eye, gazing heavenward--that the Pantheon owes the
+     peculiarity of its effect. It is so heathenish, as it were--so
+     unlike all the snugness of our modern civilization! Look, too, at
+     the pavement directly beneath the open space! So much rain has
+     fallen there, in the last two thousand years, that it is green with
+     small, fine moss, such as grows over tombstones in damp English
+     churchyards.'
+
+     "'I like better,' replied Hilda, 'to look at the bright, blue sky,
+     roofing the edifice where the builders left it open. It is very
+     delightful, in a breezy day, to see the masses of white cloud float
+     over the opening, and then the sunshine fall through it again,
+     fitfully, as it does now. Would it be any wonder if we were to see
+     angels hovering there, partly in and partly out, with genial,
+     heavenly faces, not intercepting the light, but transmuting it into
+     beautiful colours? Look at that broad, golden beam--a sloping
+     cataract of sunlight--which comes down from the aperture, and rests
+     upon the shrine, at the right hand of the entrance.'"--_Hawthorne._
+
+     ... "'Entrons dans le temple,' dit Corinne: 'vous le voyez, il
+     reste découvert presque comme il l'était autrefois. On dit que
+     cette lumière qui venait d'en haut était l'emblème de la divinité
+     supérieure à toutes les divinités. Les païens ont toujours aimé les
+     images symboliques. Il semble en effet que ce langage convient
+     mieux à la religion que la parole. La pluie tombe souvent sur ces
+     parvis de marbre; mais aussi les rayons du soleil viennent éclairer
+     les prières. Quelle sérénité; quel air de fête on remarque dans cet
+     édifice! Les païens ont divinisé la vie, et les chrétiens ont
+     divinisé la mort: tel est l'esprit des deux cultes.'"--_Mad. de
+     Staël._
+
+     "In the ancient Pantheon, when the music of Christian chaunts rises
+     among the shadowy forms of the old vanished gods painted on the
+     walls, and the light streams down, not from painted windows in the
+     walls, but from the glowing heavens above, every note of the
+     service echoes like a peal of triumph, and fills my heart with
+     thankfulness."--_Mrs. Charles._
+
+     "'Where,' asked Redschid Pasha, on his visit to the Pantheon, 'are
+     the statues of the heathen gods?' 'Of course they were removed when
+     the temple was Christianized,' was the natural answer. 'No,' he
+     replied, 'I would have left them standing to show how the true God
+     had triumphed over them in their own house."--_Cardinal Wiseman._
+
+    "No, great Dome of Agrippa, thou art not Christian! canst not,
+    Strip and replaster and daub and do what they will with thee, be so!
+    Here underneath the great porch of colossal Corinthian columns,
+    Here as I walk, do I dream of the Christian belfries above them;
+    Or, on a bench as I sit and abide for long hours, till thy whole vast
+    Round grows dim as in dreams to my eyes, I repeople thy niches,
+    Not with the martyrs, and saints, and confessors, and virgins,
+     and children,
+    But with the mightier forms of an older, austerer worship;
+    And I recite to myself, how
+                                'eager for battle here
+                Stood Vulcan, here matronal Juno,
+                  And, with the bow to his shoulder faithful,
+              He who with pure dew laveth of Castaly
+              His flowing locks, who holdeth of Lycia
+              The oak forest and the wood that bore him,
+                  Delos' and Patara's own Apollo.'"
+
+    _A. H. Clough._
+
+Some antiquarians have supposed that the aperture at the top of the
+Pantheon was originally closed by a huge "Pigna," or pine-cone of
+bronze, like that which crowned the summit of the mausoleum of Hadrian,
+and this belief has been encouraged by the name of a neighbouring church
+being S. Giovanni della Pigna.
+
+The Pantheon has become the burial-place of painters. Raphael, Annibale
+Caracci, Taddeo Zucchero, Baldassare Peruzzi, Pierino del Vaga, and
+Giovanni da Udine, are all buried here.
+
+The third chapel on the left contains the _tomb of Raphael_ (born April
+6, 1483; died April 6, 1520). From the pen of Cardinal Bembo is the
+epigram:
+
+    "Ille hic est Raphael, timuit quo sospite vinci
+    Rerum magna parens, et moriente mori"[310]
+
+     "Raphael mourut à l'âge de 37 ans. Son corps resta exposé pendant
+     trois jours. Au moment où l'on s'apprêtait à le descendre dans sa
+     dernière demeure, on vit arriver le pape (Leon X.) qui se
+     prosterna, pria quelques instants, bénit Raphael, et lui prit pour
+     la dernière fois la main, qu'il arrosa de ses larmes (si prostrò
+     innanzi l'estinto Rafaello et baciogli quella mano, tra le
+     lagrime). On lui fit de magnifiques funérailles, auxquelles
+     assistèrent les cardinaux, les artistes, &c."--_A. Du Pays._
+
+                      "When Raphael went,
+    His heavenly face the mirror of his mind,
+    His mind a temple for all lovely things
+    To flock to and inhabit--when He went,
+    Wrapt in his sable cloak, the cloak he wore,
+    To sleep beneath the venerable Dome,
+    By those attended, who in life had loved,
+    Had worshipped, following in his steps to Fame,
+    ('Twas on an April-day, when Nature smiles,)
+    All Rome was there. But, ere the march began,
+    Ere to receive their charge the bearers came,
+    Who had not sought him? And when all beheld
+    Him, where he lay, how changed from yesterday,
+    Him in that hour cut off, and at his head
+    His last great work;[311] when, entering in, they looked
+    Now on the dead, then on that masterpiece,
+    Now on his face, lifeless and colourless,
+    Then on those forms divine that lived and breathed,
+    And would live on for ages--all were moved;
+    And sighs burst forth, and loudest lamentations."
+
+    _Rogers._
+
+Taddeo Zucchero and Annibale Caracci are buried on either side of
+Raphael. Near the high altar is a monument to Cardinal Gonsalvi
+(1757--1824), the faithful secretary and minister of Pius VII., by
+_Thorwaldsen_. This, however, is only a cenotaph, marking the spot where
+his heart is preserved. His body rests with that of his beloved brother
+Andrew in the church of S. Marcello.
+
+During the middle ages the pope always officiated here on the day of
+Pentecost, when, in honour of the descent of the Holy Spirit, showers of
+white rose-leaves were continually sent down through the aperture during
+service.
+
+     "Though plundered of all its brass, except the ring which was
+     necessary to preserve the aperture above; though exposed to
+     repeated fire; though sometimes flooded by the river, and always
+     open to the rain, no monument of equal antiquity is so well
+     preserved as this rotunda. It passed with little alteration from
+     the pagan into the present worship; and so convenient were its
+     niches for the Christian altar, that Michael Angelo, ever studious
+     of ancient beauty, introduced their design as a model in the
+     Catholic church."--_Forsyth._
+
+    "Simple, erect, severe, austere, sublime--
+    Shrine of all saints and temple of all gods,
+    From Jove to Jesus--spared and bless'd by time,
+    Looking tranquillity, while falls or nods
+    Arch, empire, each thing round thee, and man plods
+    His way through thorns to ashes--glorious dome!
+    Shalt thou not last? Time's scythe and tyrant's rods
+    Shiver upon thee--sanctuary and home
+    Of art and piety--Pantheon! pride of Rome!"
+
+    _Byron, Childe Harold._
+
+In the Piazza della Rotonda is a small _Obelisk_ found in the Campus
+Martius.
+
+     "At a few paces from the streets where meat is sold, you will find
+     gathered round the fountain in the Piazza della Rotonda, a number
+     of bird-fanciers, surrounded by cages in which are multitudes of
+     living birds for sale. Here are Java sparrows, parrots and
+     parroquets, grey thrushes and nightingales, red-breasts (_petti
+     rossi_), yellow canary-birds, beautiful sweet-singing little
+     _cardellini_, and gentle ringdoves, all chattering, singing, and
+     cooing together, to the constant splashing of the fountain. Among
+     them, perched on stands, and glaring wisely out of their great
+     yellow eyes, may be seen all sorts of owls, from the great solemn
+     _barbigiani_, and white-tufted owl, to the curious little
+     _civetta_, which gives its name to all sharp-witted heartless
+     flirts, and the _aziola_, which Shelley has celebrated in one of
+     his minor poems."--_Story's Roba di Roma._
+
+(Following the Via della Rotonda from hence, in the third street on the
+left is the small semicircular ruin called, from a fancied resemblance
+to the favourite cake of the people, _Arco di Ciambella_. This is the
+only remaining fragment of the baths of Agrippa, unless the Pantheon
+itself was connected with them.)
+
+Behind the Pantheon, is the _Piazza della Minerva_, where a small
+_Obelisk_ was erected 1667 by Bernini, on the back of an elephant. It is
+exactly similar to the obelisk in front of the Pantheon, and they were
+both found near this site, where they formed part of the decorations of
+the Campus Martius. The hieroglyphics show that it dates from Hophres,
+a king of the 25th dynasty. On the pedestal is the inscription:
+
+    "Sapientis Ægypti insculptas obelisco figuras
+    Ab elephanto belluarum fortissimo gestari
+      Quisquis hic vides, documentum intellige
+    Robustæ mentis esse solidam sapientiam sustinere."
+
+One side of the piazza is occupied by the mean ugly front of the _Church
+of Sta. Maria sopra Minerva_, built in 1370 upon the ruins of a temple
+of Minerva founded by Pompey. It is the only gothic church in Rome of
+importance. In 1848--55 it was redecorated with tawdry imitation
+marbles, which have only a good effect when there is not sufficient
+light to see them. In spite of this, the interior is very interesting,
+and its chapels are a perfect museum of relics of art or history. The
+services, too, in this church were, under the papal government,
+exceedingly imposing, especially the procession on the night before
+Christmas, the mass of St. Thomas Aquinas, and that of "the white mule
+day." Some celebrated divine generally preaches here at 11 A.M. every
+morning in Lent.
+
+Hither, on the feast of the Annunciation, comes the famous "Procession
+of the White Mule," when the host is borne by the grand almoner riding
+on the papal mule, followed by the pope in his glass coach, and a long
+train of cardinals and other dignitaries. Up to the time of Pius VI., it
+was the pope himself who rode upon the white mule, but Pius VII. was too
+infirm, and since his time they have given it up. But this procession
+has continued to be one of the finest _spectacles_ of the kind, and has
+been an opportunity for a loyal demonstration, balconies being hung with
+scarlet draperies, and flowers showered down upon the papal coach,
+while the pope, on arriving and departing, has usually been received
+with tumultuous "evivas."
+
+On the right of the entrance is the tomb of Diotisalvi, a Florentine
+knight, ob. 1482. Beginning the circuit of the church by the right
+aisle, the first chapel has a picture of S. Ludovico Bertrando, by
+_Baciccio_, the paintings on the pilasters being by _Muziano_. In the
+second, the Colonna Chapel, is the tomb of the late Princess Colonna
+(Donna Isabella Alvaria of Toledo) and her child, who both died at
+Albano in the cholera of 1867. The third chapel is that of the Gabrielli
+family. The fourth is that of the Annunciation. Over its altar is a most
+interesting picture, shown as a work of Fra Angelico, but more probably
+that of _Benozzo Gozzoli_. It represents Monsignore Torquemada attended
+by an angel, presenting three young girls to the Virgin, who gives them
+dowries: the Almighty is seen in the clouds. Torquemada was a Dominican
+Cardinal, who founded the association of the Santissima-Annunziata,
+which holds its meetings in this chapel, and which annually gives
+dowries to a number of poor girls, who receive them from the pope when
+he comes here in state on the 25th of March. On this occasion, the girls
+who are to receive the dowries are drawn up in two lines in front of the
+church. Some are distinguished by white wreaths. They are those who are
+going to "enter into religion," and who consequently receive double the
+dowry of the others, on the plea that "money placed in the hands of
+religion bears interest for the poor."
+
+Torquemada is himself buried in this chapel, opposite the tomb, by
+Ambrogio Buonvicino, of his friend Urban VII., Giov. Battista Castagna,
+1590,--who was pope only for eleven days.
+
+The fifth chapel is the burial-place of the Aldobrandini family. It
+contains a faded Last Supper, by _Baroccio_.
+
+     "The Cenacolo of Baroccio, painted by order of Clement VIII.
+     (1594), is remarkable for an anecdote relating to it. Baroccio, who
+     was not eminent for a correct taste, had in his first sketch
+     reverted to the ancient fashion of placing Satan close behind
+     Judas, whispering in his ear, and tempting him to betray his
+     master. The pope expressed his dissatisfaction,--'che non gli
+     piaceva il demonio se dimesticasse tanto con Gesù Christo,'--and
+     ordered him to remove the offensive figure."--_Jameson's Sacred
+     Art_, p. 277.
+
+Here are the fine tombs erected by Clement VIII. (Ippolito Aldobrandini)
+as soon as he obtained the papacy, to his father and mother. Their
+architecture is by _Giacomo della Porta_, but the figures are by
+_Cordieri_, the sculptor of Sta. Silvia's statue. At the sides of the
+mother's tomb are figures emblematical of Charity, by that of the
+father, figures of Humility and Vanity. Beyond his mother's tomb is a
+fine statue of Clement VIII. himself (who is buried at Sta. Maria
+Maggiore), by _Ippolito Buzi_.
+
+     "Hippolyte Aldobrandini, qui prit le nom de Clément VIII., était le
+     cinquième fils du célèbre jurisconsulte Silvestro Aldobrandini,
+     qui, après avoir professé à Pise et joui d'une haute autorité à
+     Florence, avait été condamné à l'exil par le retour au pouvoir des
+     Médicis ses ennemis. La vie de Silvestre devint alors pénible et
+     calamiteuse. Dépouillé de ses biens, il fut, du moins, toujours
+     ennoblir son malheur par la dignité de son caractère. Sa famille
+     présentait un rare assemblage de douces vertus et de jeunes talents
+     qu'une forte éducation développait chaque jour avec puissance.
+     Appelé à Rome par Paul III., qui le nomma avocat consistorial,
+     Silvester s'y transporta avec son épouse, la pieuse Leta Deti, qui,
+     pendant trente-sept ans, fut pour lui comme son bon ange, et avec
+     tous ses enfants, Jean, qui devait être un jour cardinal; Bernard,
+     qui devint un vaillant guerrier; Thomas, qui préparait déjà
+     peut-être sa traduction de Diogène-Laërce; Pierre, qui voulut être
+     jurisconsulte comme son père; et le jeune Hippolyte, un enfant
+     alors, dont les saillies inquiétaient le vieillard, car il ne
+     savait comment pourvoir à son éducation et utiliser cette vivacité
+     de génie qui déjà brillait dans son regard. Hippolyte fut élevé
+     aux frais du cardinal Farnèse; puis, tous les emplois, toutes les
+     dignités vinrent successivement au-devant de lui, sans qu'il les
+     cherchât autrement qu'en s'en rendant digne."--_Gournerie, Rome
+     Chrétienne_, ii. 238.
+
+The sixth chapel contains two fine cinque-cento tombs; on the left,
+Benedetto Superanzio, bishop of Nicosa, ob. 1495; on the right, a
+Spanish bishop, Giovanni da Coca, with frescoes. Close to the former
+tomb, on the floor, is the grave of (archdeacon) Robert Wilberforce, who
+died at Albano in 1857.
+
+Here we enter the right transept. On the right is a small dark chapel
+containing a fine Crucifix, attributed to Giotto. The central, or
+Caraffa Chapel, is dedicated to St. Thomas Aquinas, and is covered with
+well-preserved frescoes. On the right, St. Thomas Aquinas is represented
+surrounded by allegorical figures, by _Filippino Lippi_. Over the altar
+is a beautiful Annunciation, in which a portrait of the donor, Cardinal
+Olivieri Caraffa, is introduced. Above is the Assumption of the Virgin.
+On the ceiling are the four Sibyls, by _Raffaelino del Garbo_.
+
+Against the left wall is the tomb of Paul IV., Gio. Pietro Caraffa
+(1555--59), the great supporter of the Inquisition, the patron of the
+Jesuits, the persecutor of the Jews (whom he shut up with walls in the
+Ghetto),--a pope so terrible to look upon, that even Alva, who feared no
+man, trembled at his awful aspect Such he is represented upon his tomb,
+with deeply-sunken eyes and strongly-marked features, with one hand
+raised in blessing--or cursing, and the keys of St. Peter in the other.
+The tomb was designed by Pirro Ligorio; the statue is the work of
+Giacomo and Tommaso Casignuola, and being made in marble of different
+pieces and colours, is cited by Vasari as an instance of a sculptor's
+ingenuity in imitating painting with his materials. The epitaph runs:
+
+     "To Jesus Christ, the hope and the life of the faithful; to Paul
+     IV. Caraffa, sovereign pontiff, distinguished amongst all by his
+     eloquence, his learning, and his wisdom; illustrious by his
+     innocence, by his liberality, and by his greatness of soul; to the
+     most ardent champion of the catholic faith, Pius V., sovereign
+     pontiff, has raised this monument of his gratitude and of his
+     piety. He lived eighty-three years, one month, and twenty days, and
+     died the 14th August, 1559, the fifth year of his
+     pontificate."[312]
+
+On the transept wall, just outside this chapel, is the beautiful gothic
+tomb of Guillaume Durandus, bishop of Mende,[313] with a recumbent
+figure guarded by two angels, the background being occupied by a mosaic
+of the Virgin and Child, by _Giovanni Cosmati_.
+
+The first chapel on a line with the choir--the burial-place of the
+Altieri family--has an altar-piece, by _Carlo Maratta_, representing
+five saints canonized by Clement X., presented to the Virgin by St.
+Peter. On the floor is the incised monument of a bishop of Sutri.
+
+The second chapel--which contains a fine cinque-cento tomb--is that of
+the Rosary. Its ceiling, representing the Mysteries of the Rosary, is by
+_Marcello Venusti_; the history of St. Catherine of Siena is by
+_Giovanni de' Vecchi_; the large and beautiful Madonna with the Child
+over the altar is attributed to _Fra Angelico_. Here is the tomb of
+Cardinal Capranica of 1470.
+
+Beneath the high altar, with lamps always burning before it, is a marble
+sarcophagus with a beautiful figure, enclosing the body of St.
+Catherine of Siena. In it her relics were deposited in 1461, by
+Antoninus, archbishop of Florence. On the last pillar to the right is an
+inscription stating that, "all the indulgences and privileges in every
+church, of all the religious orders, mendicant or not mendicant, in
+every part of the world, are granted especially to this church, where is
+the body of St. Catherine of Siena."
+
+     "St. Catherine was one of twenty-five children born in wedlock to
+     Jacopo and Lupa Benincasa, citizens of Siena. Her father exercised
+     the trade of dyer and fuller. In the year of her birth, 1347, Siena
+     reached the climax of its power and splendour. It was then that the
+     plague of Bocaccio began to rage, which swept off 80,000 citizens,
+     and interrupted the building of the great Duomo. In the midst of so
+     large a family and during these troubled times, Catherine grew
+     almost unnoticed, but it was not long before she manifested her
+     peculiar disposition. At six years old she already saw visions and
+     longed for a monastic life: about the same time she used to collect
+     her childish companions together and preach to them. As she grew
+     her wishes became stronger; she refused the proposals which her
+     parents made that she should marry, and so vexed them by her
+     obstinacy that they imposed on her the most servile duties in their
+     household. These she patiently fulfilled, at the same time pursuing
+     her own vocation with unwearied ardour. She scarcely slept at all,
+     and ate no food but vegetables and a little bread, scourged
+     herself, wore sackcloth, and became emaciated, weak, and half
+     delirious. At length the firmness of her character and the force of
+     her hallucination won the day. Her parents consented to her
+     assuming the Dominican robe, and at the age of thirteen she entered
+     the monastic life. From this moment till her death we see in her
+     the ecstatic, the philanthropist, and the politician combined to a
+     remarkable degree. For three whole years she never left her cell
+     except to go to church, maintaining an almost unbroken silence.
+     Yet, when she returned to the world, convinced at length of having
+     won by prayer and pain the favour of her Lord, it was to preach to
+     infuriated mobs, to toil among men dying of the plague, to execute
+     diplomatic negotiations, to harangue the republic of Florence, to
+     correspond with queens, and to interpose between kings and popes.
+     In the midst of this varied and distracting career she continued to
+     see visions, and to fast and scourge herself. The domestic virtues
+     and the personal wants and wishes of a woman were annihilated in
+     her; she lived for the Church, for the poor, and for Christ, whom
+     she imagined to be constantly supporting her. At length she died
+     (at Rome, on the 29th of April, 1380, in her 33rd year) worn out by
+     inward conflicts, by the tension of a half-delirious ecstasy, by
+     want of food and sleep, and by the excitement of political
+     life."--_Cornhill Mag._ Sept. 1866.
+
+On the right of the high altar is a statue of St. John, by _Obicci_,--on
+the left is the famous statue of Christ, by _Michael Angelo_. This is
+one of the sculptures which Francis I. tried hard to obtain for Paris.
+Its effect is marred by the bronze drapery.
+
+Behind, in the choir, are the tombs of two Medici popes. On the left is
+Leo X., Giovanni de Medici (1513--21). This great pope, son of Lorenzo
+the Magnificent, was destined to the papacy from his cradle. He was
+ordained at seven years old, was made a cardinal at seventeen, and pope
+at thirty-eight, and at the installation procession to the Lateran, rode
+upon the same white horse, upon which he had fought and had been taken
+prisoner at the battle of Ravenna. His reign was one of fêtes and
+pleasures. He was the great patron of artists and poets, and Raphael and
+Ariosto rose into eminence under his protection. His tomb is from a
+design of Antonio di Sangallo, but the figure of the pope is by
+Raffaello da Montelupo.
+
+Near the foot of Leo X.'s tomb is the flat monumental stone of Cardinal
+Bembo, his friend, and the friend of Raphael, who died 1547. His epitaph
+has been changed. The original inscription, half-pagan, half-Christian,
+ran:
+
+    "Hic Bembus jacet Aonidum laus maxima Phoebi
+      Cum sole, et luna vix periturus honos.
+    Hic et fama jacet, spes, et suprema galeri
+      Quam non ulla queat restituisse dies.
+    Hic jacet exemplar vitæ omni fraude carentis,
+      Summa jacet, summa hic cum pietate fides."
+
+On the right of the choir is the tomb, by Sangallo, of Clement VII.,
+Giulio de Medici (1523--34), son of the Giulio who fell in the
+conspiracy of the Pazzi,--who in his unhappy reign saw the sack of Rome
+(1527) under the Constable de Bourbon, and the beginning of the
+separation from England under Henry VIII. The figure of the pope is by
+_Baccio Bandinelli_. Among other graves here is that of the English
+Cardinal Howard, ob. 1694. Just beyond the choir is a passage leading to
+a door into the Via S. Ignazio. Immediately on the left is the slab tomb
+of Fra Angelico da Fiesole. It is inscribed:
+
+    "Hic jacet Vene Pictor Fl. Jo. de Florentia Ordinis
+               prædicatorum, 1404.
+
+    "Non mihi sit laudi quod eram velut alter Apelles,
+      Sed quod lucra tuis omnia, Christe, dabam.
+    Altera nam terris opera exstant, altero coelo.
+      Urbs me Johannem flos tulit Etruriæ."[314]
+
+     "Fra Angelico was simple and most holy in his manners,--and let
+     this serve for a token of his simplicity, that Pope Nicholas one
+     morning offering him refreshment, he scrupled to eat flesh without
+     the licence of his superior, forgetful for the moment of the
+     dispensing authority of the pontiff. He shunned altogether the
+     commerce of the world, and living in holiness and in purity, was as
+     loving towards the poor on earth as I think his soul must be now in
+     heaven. He worked incessantly at his art, nor would he ever paint
+     other than sacred subjects. He might have been rich, but cared not
+     to be so, saying that true riches consisted rather in being content
+     with little. He might have ruled over many, but willed it not,
+     saying there was less trouble and hazard of sin in obeying others.
+     Dignity and authority were within his grasp, but he disregarded
+     them, affirming that he sought no other advancement than to escape
+     hell and draw nigh to Paradise. He was most meek and temperate, and
+     by a chaste life loosened himself from the snares of the world,
+     ofttimes saying that the student of painting hath need of quiet and
+     to live without anxiety, and that the dealers in the things of
+     Christ ought to live habitually with Christ. Never was he seen in
+     anger with the brethren, which appears to me a thing most
+     marvellous, and all but incredible; his admonitions to his friends
+     were simple and always softened by a smile. Whoever sought to
+     employ him, he answered with the utmost courtesy, that he would do
+     his part willingly so the prior were content.--In sum, this never
+     sufficiently to be lauded father was most humble and modest in all
+     his words and deeds, and in his paintings graceful and devout; and
+     the saints which he painted have more of the air and aspect of
+     saints than those of any other artist. He was wont never to retouch
+     or amend any of his paintings, but left them always as they had
+     come from his hand at first, believing, as he said, that such was
+     the will of God. Some say that he never took up his pencil without
+     previous prayer. He never painted a crucifix without tears bathing
+     his cheeks; and throughout his works, in the countenance and
+     attitude of all his figures, the correspondent impress of his
+     sincere and exalted appreciation of the Christian religion is
+     recognisable. Such was this verily Angelic father, who spent the
+     whole time of his life in the service of God and in doing good to
+     the world and to his neighbour. And truly a gift like his could not
+     descend on any but a man of most saintly life, for a painter must
+     be holy himself before he can depict holiness."--_Lord Lindsay,
+     from Vasari._
+
+In the same passage are tombs of Cardinal Alessandrino, by Giacomo della
+Porta; of Cardinal Pimentel, by Bernini; and of Cardinal Bonelli, by
+Carlo Rainaldi.
+
+Beyond this, in the left transept, is the Chapel of S. Domenico, with
+eight black columns, appropriate to the colour of the Order, and an
+interesting picture of the saint. Here is the tomb of Benedict XIII.,
+Vincenzo-Maria Orsini (1724--30), by Pietro Bracci. This pope, who had
+been a Dominican monk, laboured hard in his short reign for the
+reformation of the Church, and the morals of the clergy.
+
+Over a door leading to the Sacristy are frescoes representing the
+election of Eugenius IV. in 1431, and of Nicholas V. in 1447, which both
+took place in this church. The altar of the sacristy has a Crucifixion,
+by Andrea Sacchi.
+
+Returning down the left aisle, the second chapel, counting from this
+end, is that of the Lante family, which contains the fine tomb of the
+Duchess Lante, ob. 1840, by _Tenerani_, with the Angel of the
+Resurrection, a sublime upward-gazing figure seated upon the
+sarcophagus. Here is a picture of St. James, by _Baroccio_.
+
+The third chapel is that of S. Vincenzo Ferreri, apostle of the Order of
+Preachers, with a miracle-working picture, by _Bernardo Castelli_. The
+fourth chapel--of the Grazioli family--has on the right a statue of St.
+Sebastian, by _Mino da Fiesole_, and over the altar a lovely head of our
+Saviour, by _Perugino_. This chapel was purchased by the Grazioli from
+the old family of Maffei, of which there are some fine tombs. The fifth
+chapel--of the Patrizi family--contains the famous miraculous picture
+called "La Madonna Consolatrice degli afflitti," in honour of which Pope
+Gregory XVI. conceded so many indulgences, as we read by the
+inscription.
+
+     "La santità di N. S. Gregorio Papa XVI. con breve in data 17 Sept.
+     1836. Ho accordato l'indulgenzia plenaria a chiunque confessato e
+     communicato visiterà divotamente questa santa imagine della B.
+     Vergine sotto il titolo di consolatrice degli afflitti nella
+     seconda dominica di Luglio e suo ottavo di ciascun anno: concede
+     altresi la parziale indulgenza di 200 giorni in qualunque giorno
+     dell' anno a chiunque almeno contrito visiterà la detta S.
+     Immagine: le dette indulgenze poi sono pure applicabili alle
+     benedette anime del purgatorio."
+
+The last chapel, belonging to a Spanish nobleman, contains the picture
+of the Crucifixion, which is said to have conversed with Sta. Rosa di
+Lima.
+
+Near the entrance is the tomb of Cardinal Giacomo Tebaldi, ob. 1466, and
+beneath it that of Francesco Tornabuoni, by _Mino da Fiesole_. It was
+for the tomb of the wife of this Tornabuoni, who died in childbirth,
+that the wonderful relief of Verocchio, now in the Uffizi at Florence,
+was executed. In the pavement is the gravestone of Paulus Manutius, the
+printer, son of the famous Aldus Manutius of Venice, with the
+inscription, "Paulo Manutio Aldi Filio. Obiit CI[=C]I[=C]LXXIV."
+
+The great _Dominican Convent of the Minerva_, lately suppressed, was the
+residence of the General of the Order. It contains the _Bibliotheca
+Casanatensis_ (so called from its founder, Cardinal Casanata), the
+largest library in Rome after that of the Vatican, comprising 120,000
+printed volumes and 4500 MSS. It is open from 8 to 11 A.M., and 1-1/2 to
+3-1/2 P.M. This convent has always been connected with the history of
+the Inquisition. Here, on June 22, 1633, Galileo was tried before its
+tribunal for the "heresy" of saying that the earth went round the sun,
+instead of the sun round the earth, and was forced to recant upon his
+knees, this "accursed, heretical, and detestable doctrine." As he rose
+from his humiliation, he is said to have consoled himself by adding, in
+an undertone, "E pur si muove." When the "Palace of the Holy Office" was
+stormed by the mob in the revolution of 1848, it was feared that the
+Dominican convent would have been burnt down.
+
+The very beautiful cloister of the convent, which has a vaulted roof
+richly painted in arabesques, contains grand fifteenth century
+tombs,--of Cardinal Tiraso, ob. 1502, and of Cardinal Astorgius, ob.
+1503. S. Antonino, archbishop of Florence, who lived in the reigns of
+Eugenius IV. and Nicholas V., was prior of this convent.
+
+From the Minerva, the _Via del Piè di Marmo_, so called from a gigantic
+marble foot which stands on one side of it, leads to the Corso.[315]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+THE BORGO AND ST. PETER'S.
+
+     Via Tordinona--S. Salvatore in Lauro--House of Raphael--S. Giovanni
+     de' Fiorentini--Bridge and Castle of S. Angelo--Sta. Maria
+     Traspontina--Palazzo Giraud--Piazza Scossa-Cavalli--Hospital of
+     Santo Spirito--Piazza and Obelisk of the Vatican--S. Peter's; its
+     portico, tombs, crypts, dome, and sacristy--Churches of S. Stefano
+     and Sta. Marta--Il Cimeterio dei Tedeschi--Palazzo del
+     Santo-Uffizio--S. Salvatore in Torrione--S. Michaele in Sassia.
+
+
+Continuing in a direct course from the Piazza Borghese, we pass through
+a series of narrow dirty streets quite devoid of interest, but bordering
+on one side upon the Tiber, of which--with its bridge, S. Angelo and St.
+Peter's--beautiful views may be obtained from little courts and narrow
+strips of shore, at the back of the houses.
+
+A short distance after passing (on left) the Locanda dell' Orso, where
+Montaigne used to stay when he was in Rome, and beneath which are some
+curious vaulted chambers of _c._ A.D. 1500, the street, which repeatedly
+changes its name, is called _Via Tordinona_, from the Tor di Nona, which
+once stood here, but was destroyed in 1690. It was used as a prison, as
+is shown by the verse of Regnier:
+
+    "Qu'un barisel vous mit dedans la tour de Nonne."
+
+One of the narrow streets on the left of the Via Tordinona debouches
+into the Via dei Coronari, close to the _Church of S. Salvatore in
+Lauro_, built on the site of a laurel-grove, which flourished near the
+portico of Europa. It contains a picture of the Nativity, by _Pietro da
+Cortona_, and a modern work of _Gagliardi_, representing S. Emidio, S.
+Nicolo da Tolentino, and S. Giacomo della Marina, the three protectors
+of Ancona. In a side chapel, opening out of the cloisters, is the rich
+tomb of Pope Eugenius IV. (Gabriele Condolmieri, ob. 1439), with his
+recumbent figure by Isaia da Pisa. Francesco Salviati painted a portrait
+of this pope for the adjoining convent, to which he had belonged, as
+well as a fine fresco of the Marriage of Cana.[316]
+
+(There are several other fine monuments in the same chapel with the
+tomb, which in 1867 was given up as a barrack to the Flemish zouaves, at
+the great risk of injury to its delicate carvings.)
+
+Passing the _Apollo Theatre_, the Via Tordinona emerges upon the quay of
+the Tiber, opposite S. Angelo. Hence several streets diverge into the
+heart of the city.
+
+(At the corner of the Via di Banchi is a house with a frieze, richly
+sculptured with lions' heads, &c. On the left is the _Church of San
+Celso in Banchi_, in front of which Lorenzo Colonna, the protonotary,
+was murdered by the Orsini and Santa Croce, immediately after the death
+of Sixtus IV. (1484); and where his mother, finding his head cut off,
+and seizing it by the hair, shrieked forth her curses upon his enemies.
+On the right, further down the street, is the _Church of Sta. Caterina
+da Siena_, which contains an interesting altar-piece by _Girolamo
+Genga_, representing the return of Gregory XI. from Avignon, which was
+due to her influence.)
+
+The house joining the Ponte S. Angelo is said to have been that of the
+"Violinista," the friend of Raphael, who is familiar to us from his
+portrait in the Sciarra Palace. Some say that Raphael died while he was
+on a visit to him. But the best authorities maintain that he died in a
+house built for him by Bramante, in the Piazza Rusticucci, which was
+pulled down to enlarge the Piazza of St. Peter's. No. 124, Via Coronari,
+not far from the Ponte S. Angelo, is shown as the house in which the
+great painter lived previously to this, and is that which he bequeathed
+to the chapel in the Pantheon in which he is buried. It was partly
+rebuilt in 1705, when Carlo Maderno painted on its façade a portrait of
+Raphael in _chiaro-scuro_, now almost obliterated. The house at present
+belongs to the canons of Sta. Maria Maggiore.
+
+(The Via _S. Giovanni de' Fiorentini_ leads to the _Church_ of that
+name, abutting picturesquely into the angle of the Tiber. This is the
+national church of the Tuscans, and was built at the expense of the city
+of Florence. In the tribune are tombs of the Falconieri family. Here are
+several fine pictures; a St. Jerome writing, by _Cigoli_, who is buried
+in this church; St. Jerome praying before a crucifix, _Tito Santi_[317]
+(1538--1603); St. Francis, _Tito Santi_; SS. Cosmo and Damian condemned
+to martyrdom by fire,--a grand work of _Salvator Rosa_.
+
+     "Some of the altar-pieces of Salvator-Rosa (1615-1673), are well
+     conceived and full of effect, especially when they represent a
+     horrible subject, like the martyrdom in S. Giovanni de'
+     Fiorentini."--Lanzi, ii. 165.
+
+The Chapel of the Crucifix is painted by _Lanfranco_: the third chapel
+on the right has frescoes by _Tempesta_ on the roof, relating to the
+history of S. Lorenzo.
+
+The building of this church was begun in the reign of Leo X. by
+Sansovino, who, for want of space, laid its foundations, at enormous
+expense, in the bed of the Tiber. While overlooking this, he fell from a
+scaffold, and being dangerously hurt, was obliged to give up his place
+to Antonio da Sangallo.[318] Soon after Pope Leo died, and the work,
+with many others, was suspended during the reign of Adrian VI. Under
+Clement VII. Sansovino returned, but was driven away, robbed of all his
+possessions in the sack of Rome, under the Constable de Bourbon. The
+church was finished by Giacomo della Porta in 1588, but Alessandro
+Galileo added the façade in 1725.
+
+     "En 1488, une affreuse épidémie décimait les malheureux habitants
+     des environs de Rome; les mourants étaient abandonnés, les cadavres
+     restaient sans sépulture. Aussitôt quelques Florentins forment une
+     confrérie sous le titre de _la Pitié_, pour rendre aux pestiférés
+     les derniers devoirs de la charité chrétienne: c'est à cette
+     confrérie qu'on doit la belle église de Saint-Jean des Florentins,
+     à Strada Giulia."--_Gournerie, Rome Chrétienne._
+
+The _Ponte S. Angelo_ is the Pons Elius of Hadrian, built as an approach
+to his mausoleum, and only intended for this, as another public bridge
+existed close by, at the time of its construction. It is almost entirely
+ancient, except the parapets. The statues of St. Peter and St. Paul, at
+the extremity, were erected by Clement VII., in the place of two
+chapels, in 1530, and the angels, by Clement IX., in 1688. The pedestal
+of the third angel on the right is a relic of the siege of Rome in 1849,
+and bears the impress of a cannon-ball.
+
+These angels, which have been called the "breezy maniacs" of Bernini,
+are only from his designs. The two angels which he executed himself, and
+intended for this bridge, are now at S. Andrea delle Fratte. The idea of
+Clement IX. was a fine one, that "an avenue of the heavenly host should
+be assembled to welcome the pilgrim to the shrine of the great apostle."
+
+Dante saw the bridge of S. Angelo divided lengthways by barriers to
+facilitate the movement of the crowds going to and from St Peter's on
+the occasion of the first jubilee, 1300.
+
+      "Come i Romani per l'esercito molto,
+    L'anno del giubbileo, su per lo ponte
+    Hanno a passar la gente modo tolto;
+      Che dall' un lato tutti hanno la fronte
+    Verso 'l castello, e vanno a Santo Pietro,
+    Dall' altra sponda vanno verso 'l monte."
+
+    _Inferno_, xviii. 29.
+
+From the Ponte S. Angelo, when the Tiber is low, are visible the remains
+of the bridge by which the ancient _Via Triumphalis_ crossed the river.
+Close by, where Santo Spirito now stands, was the Porta Triumphalis, by
+which victors entered the city in triumph.
+
+Facing the bridge, is the famous _Castle of S. Angelo_, built by the
+Emperor Hadrian as his family tomb, because the last niche in the
+imperial mausoleum of Augustus was filled when the ashes of Nerva were
+laid there. The first funeral here was that of Elius Verus, the first
+adopted son of Hadrian, who died before him. The emperor himself died at
+Baiæ, but his remains were transported hither from a temporary tomb at
+Pozzuoli by his successor Antoninus Pius, by whom the mausoleum was
+completed in A.D. 140. Here, also, were buried, Antoninus Pius, A.D.
+161; Marcus Aurelius, 180; Commodus, 192; and Septimius Severus, in an
+urn of gold, enclosed in one of alabaster, A.D. 211; Caracalla, in 217,
+was the last emperor interred here. The well-known lines of Byron:
+
+    "Turn to the mole which Hadrian rear'd on high,
+    Imperial mimic of old Egypt's piles,
+    Colossal copyist of deformity,
+    Whose travell'd phantasy from the far Nile's
+    Enormous model, doom'd the artist's toils
+    To build for giants, and for his vain earth,
+    His shrunken ashes, raise this dome! How smiles
+    The gazer's eye with philosophic mirth,
+    To view the huge design which sprung from such a birth."
+
+seem rather applicable to the _Pyramid_ of Caius Cestius than to this
+mausoleum.
+
+The castle, as it now appears, is but the skeleton of the magnificent
+tomb of the emperors. Procopius, writing in the sixth century, describes
+its appearance in his time. "It is built," he says, "of Parian marble;
+the square blocks fit closely to each other without any cement. It has
+four equal sides, each a stone's throw in length. In height it rises
+above the walls of the city. On the summit are statues of men and
+horses, of admirable workmanship, in Parian marble." Canina, in his
+"Architectura Romana," gives a restoration of the mausoleum, which shows
+how it consisted of three storeys: 1, a quadrangular basement, the upper
+part intersected with Doric pillars, between which were spaces for
+epitaphs of the dead within, and surmounted at the corners by marble
+equestrian statues; 2, a circular storey, with fluted Ionic colonnades:
+3, a circular storey, surrounded by Corinthian columns, between which
+were statues. The whole was surmounted by a pyramidal roof, ending in a
+bronze fir-cone.
+
+     "The mausoleum which Hadrian erected for himself on the further
+     bank of the Tiber far outshone the tomb of Augustus, which it
+     nearly confronted. Of the size and dignity which characterized this
+     work of Egyptian massiveness, we may gain a conception from the
+     existing remains; but it requires an effort of imagination to
+     transform the scarred and shapeless bulk before us, into the
+     graceful pile which rose column upon column, surmounted by a gilded
+     dome of span almost unrivalled." _Merivale_, ch. lxvi.
+
+The history of the Mausoleum, in the middle ages, is almost the history
+of Rome. It was probably first turned into a fortress by Honorius, A.D.
+423. From Theodoric it derives the name of "Carcer Theodorici." In 537,
+it was besieged by Vitiges, when the defending garrison, reduced to the
+last extremity, hurled down all the magnificent statues which decorated
+the cornice, upon the besiegers. In A.D. 498 Pope Symmachus removed the
+bronze fir-cone at the apex of the roof to the court of St. Peter's,
+whence it was afterwards transferred to the Vatican garden, where it is
+still to be seen between two bronze peacocks, which probably stood on
+either side of the entrance.
+
+Belisarius defended the castle against Totila, whose Gothic troops
+captured and held it for three years, after which it was taken by
+Narses.
+
+It was in 530 that the event occurred which gave the building its
+present name. Pope Gregory the Great was leading a penitential
+procession to St. Peter's, in order to offer up prayers for the staying
+of the great pestilence which followed the inundation of 589; when, as
+he was crossing the bridge, even while the people were falling dead
+around him, he looked up at the mausoleum, and saw an angel on its
+summit, sheathing a bloody sword,[319] while a choir of angels around
+chaunted with celestial voices, the anthem, since adopted by the Church
+in her vesper service--"_Regina coeli, lætare--quia quem meruisti
+portare--resurrexit, sicut dixit, Alleluja_"--To which the earthly voice
+of the pope solemnly responded, "_Ora pro nobis Deum, Alleluja_."[320]
+
+In the tenth century the fortress was occupied by the infamous Marozia,
+who, in turn, brought her three husbands (Alberic, Count of Tusculum;
+Guido, Marquis of Tuscany; and Hugo, King of Italy) thither, to
+tyrannise with her over Rome. It was within the walls of this building
+that Alberic, her son by her first husband, waiting upon his royal
+stepfather at table, threw a bowl of water over him, when Hugo retorted
+by a blow, which was the signal for an insurrection, the people taking
+part with Alberic, putting the king to flight, and imprisoning Marozia.
+Shut up within these walls, Pope John XI. (931-936), son of Marozia by
+her first husband, ruled under the guidance of his stronger-minded
+brother Alberic; here, also, Octavian, son of Alberic, and grandson of
+Marozia, succeeded in forcing his election as John XII. (being the
+first pope who took a new name), and scandalised Christendom by a life
+of murder, robbery, adultery, and incest.
+
+In 974 the castle was seized by Cencio (Crescenzio Nomentano), the
+consul, who raised up an anti-pope (Boniface VII.) here, with the
+determination of destroying the temporal power of the popes, and
+imprisoned and murdered two popes, Benedict VI. (972), and John XIV.
+(984), within these walls. In 996 another lawful pope, Gregory V.,
+calling in the emperor Otho to his assistance, took the castle, and
+beheaded Cencio, though he had promised him life if he would surrender.
+From this governor the fortress long held the name of Castello de
+Crescenzio, or Turris Crescentii, by which it is described in mediæval
+writings. A second Cencio supported another anti-pope, Cadolaus, here in
+1063, against Pope Alexander II. A third Cencio imprisoned Gregory VII.
+here in 1084. From this time the possession of the castle was a constant
+point of contest between popes and anti-popes. In 1313 Arlotto degli
+Stefaneschi, having demolished most of the other towers in the city,
+arranged the same fate for S. Angelo, but it was saved by cession to the
+Orsini. It was from hence, on December 15, 1347, that Rienzi fled to
+Bohemia, at the end of his first period of power, his wife having
+previously made her escape disguised as a friar.
+
+"The cause of final ruin to this monument" is described by Nibby to have
+been the resentment of the citizens against a French governor who
+espoused the cause of the anti-pope (Clement VII.) against Urban VI. in
+1378. It was then that the marble casings were all torn from the walls
+and used as street pavements.
+
+A drawing of Sangallo of 1465 shows the "upper part of the fortress
+crowned with high square towers and turreted buildings; a cincture of
+bastions and massive square towers girding the whole; two square-built
+bulwarks flanking the extremity of the bridge, which was then so
+connected with these outworks that passengers would have immediately
+found themselves inside the fortress after crossing the river.
+Marlianus, 1588, describes its double cincture of fortifications--a
+large round tower at the inner extremity of the bridge; two towers with
+high pinnacles, and the cross on their summits, the river flowing all
+around."[321]
+
+The castle began to assume its present aspect under Boniface IX. in
+1395. John XXIII., 1411, commenced the covered way to the Vatican, which
+was finished by Alexander VI.; and roofed by Urban VIII., in 1630. By
+the last-named pope the great outworks of the fortress were built under
+Bernini, and furnished with cannon made from the bronze roof of the
+Pantheon. Under Paul III. the interior was decorated with frescoes, and
+a colossal marble angel erected on the summit, in the place of a chapel
+(S. Angelo inter Nubes), built by Boniface IV. The marble angel was
+exchanged by Benedict XIV. for the existing angel of bronze, by a Dutch
+artist, Verschaffelt.
+
+     "Paul III. voulant justifier le nom donné à cette forteresse, fit
+     placer au sommet de l'édifice une statue de marbre, représentant un
+     ange tenant à la main une épée nue. Cet ouvrage de Raphaël de
+     Montelupo a été remplacé, du temps de Benoit XIV., par une statue
+     de bronze qui fournit cette belle réponse à un officier français
+     assiégé dans le fort. 'Je me rendrai quand l'ange remettra son épée
+     dans le fourreau.'
+
+     " ... Cet ange a l'air naïf d'une jeune fille de dix-huit ans, et
+     ne cherche qu'à bien remettre son épée dans le
+     fourreau."--_Stendhal_, i. 33.
+
+     "I suppose no one ever looked at this statue critically--at least,
+     for myself, I never could; nor can I remember now whether, as a
+     work of art, it is above or below criticism; perhaps both. With its
+     vast wings, poised in air, as seen against the deep blue skies of
+     Rome, or lighted up by the golden sunset, to me it was ever like
+     what it was intended to represent--like a vision."--_Jameson's
+     Sacred Art_, p. 98.
+
+Of the castle, as we now see it externally, only the quadrangular
+basement is of the time of Hadrian; the round tower is of that of Urban
+VIII., its top added by Paul III. The four round towers of the outworks,
+called after the four Evangelists, are of Nicholas V., 1447.
+
+The _interior_ of the fortress can be visited by an order. Excavations
+made in 1825 have laid open the sepulchral chamber in the midst of the
+basement. Here stood, in the centre, the porphyry sarcophagus of
+Hadrian, which was stolen by Pope Innocent II. to be used as his own
+tomb in the Lateran, where it was destroyed by the fire of 1360, the
+cover alone escaping, which was used for the tomb of Otho II., in the
+atrium of St. Peter's, and which, after filling this office for seven
+centuries, is now the baptismal font of that basilica. A spiral passage,
+thirty feet high, and eleven wide, up which a chariot could be driven,
+gradually ascends through the solid mass of masonry. There is
+wonderfully little to be seen. A saloon of the time of Paul III. is
+adorned with frescoes of the life of Alexander the Great, by _Pierino
+del Vaga_. This room would be used by the pope in case of his having to
+take refuge in S. Angelo. An adjoining room, adorned with a stucco
+frieze of Tritons and Nereids, is that in which Cardinal Caraffa was
+strangled (1561) under Pius IV., for alleged abuses of authority under
+his uncle, Paul IV.--his brother, the Marquis Caraffa, being beheaded in
+the castle the same night. The reputed prison of Beatrice Cenci is
+shown, but it is very uncertain that she was ever confined here,--also
+the prison of Cagliostro, and that of Benvenuto Cellini, who escaped,
+and broke his leg in trying to let himself down by a rope from the
+ramparts. The statue of the angel by _Montelupo_ is to be seen stowed
+away in a dark corner. Several horrible _trabocchette_ (oubliettes) are
+shown.
+
+On the roof, from which there is a beautiful view, are many modern
+prisons, where prisoners suffer terribly from the summer sun beating
+upon their flat roofs.
+
+Among the sculptures found here were the Barberini Faun, now at Munich,
+the Dancing Faun, at Florence, and the Bust of Hadrian at the Vatican.
+The sepulchral inscriptions of the Antonines existed till 1572, when
+they were cut up by Gregory XIII. (Buoncompagni), and the marble used to
+decorate a chapel in St Peter's! The magnificent Easter display of
+fireworks (from an idea of Michael Angelo, carried out by Bernini),
+called the girandola, used to be exhibited here, but now takes place at
+S. Pietro in Montorio, or from the Pincio. From 1849 to 1870, the castle
+was occupied by French troops, and their banner floated here, except on
+great festivals, when it was exchanged for that of the pope.
+
+Running behind, and crossing the back streets of the Borgo, is the
+covered passage intended for the escape of the popes to the castle. It
+was used by Alexander VI. when invaded by Charles VIII. in 1494, and
+twice by Clement VII. (Giulio di Medici), who fled, in 1527, from
+Moncada, viceroy of Naples, and in May, 1527, during the terrible sack
+of Rome by the troops of the Constable de Bourbon.
+
+     "Pendant que l'on se battait, Clement VII. était en prières devant
+     l'autel de sa chapelle au Vatican, détail singulier chez un homme
+     qui avait commencé sa carrière par être militaire. Lorsque les cris
+     des mourants lui annoncèrent la prise de la ville, il s'enfuit du
+     Vatican au château St. Ange par le long corridor qui s'élève
+     au-dessus des plus hautes maisons. L'historien Paul-Jove, qui
+     suivait Clement VII., relevait sa longue robe pour qu'il pût
+     marcher plus vîte, et lorsque le pape fut arrivé au pont qui le
+     laissait à découvert pour un instant, Paul-Jove le couvrit de son
+     manteau et de son chapeau violet, de peur qu'il ne fût reconnu à
+     son rochet blanc et ajusté par quelque soldat bon tireur.
+
+     "Pendant cette longue fuite le long du corridor, Clement VII.
+     apercevait au-dessous de lui, par les petites fenêtres, ses sujets
+     poursuivis par les soldats vainqueurs qui déjà se répandaient dans
+     les rues. Ils ne faisaient aucun quartier à personne, et tuaient à
+     coups de pique tout ce qu'ils pouvaient atteindre."--_Stendhal_, i.
+     388.
+
+"The Escape" consists of two passages; the upper open like a loggia, the
+lower covered, and only lighted by loop-holes. The keys of both are kept
+by the pope himself.
+
+S. Angelo is at the entrance of _the Borgo_, promised at the Italian
+invasion of September, 1870, as the sanctuary of the papacy, the tiny
+sovereignty where the temporal sway of the popes should remain
+undisturbed,--the sole relic left to them of all their ancient
+dominions. The Borgo, or _Leonine City_, is surrounded by walls of its
+own, which were begun in A.D. 846, by Pope Leo IV., for the better
+defence of St. Peter's from the Saracens, who had been carrying their
+devastations up to the very walls of Rome. These walls, 10,800 feet in
+circumference, were completed in four years by labourers summoned from
+every town and monastery of the Roman states. Pope Leo himself daily
+encouraged their exertions by his presence. In 852 the walls were
+solemnly consecrated by a vast procession of the whole Roman clergy
+barefooted, their heads strewn with ashes, who sprinkled them with holy
+water, while the pope offered a prayer composed by himself,[322] at each
+of the three gates.
+
+The adjoining Piazza Pia is decorated with a fountain erected by Pius
+IX. The principal of the streets which meet here is the Via del Borgo
+Nuovo, the main artery to St. Peter's. On its left is the _Church of
+Sta. Maria Traspontina_, built 1566, containing two columns which bear
+inscriptions, stating that they were those to which St. Peter and St.
+Paul were respectively attached, when they suffered flagellation by
+order of Nero!
+
+This church occupies the site of a Pyramid supposed to have been erected
+to Scipio Africanus, who died at Liternum, B.C. 183, and which was
+regarded in the middle ages as the tomb of Romulus. Its sides were once
+coated with marble, which was stripped off by Donus I. This pyramid is
+represented on the bronze doors of St Peter's.
+
+A little further is the _Palazzo Giraud_, belonging to Prince Torlonia.
+It was built, 1506, by Bramante, for Cardinal Adriano da Corneto,[323]
+who gave it to Henry VIII., by whom it was given to Cardinal Campeggio.
+Thus it was for a short time the residence of the English ambassador
+before the Reformation. Innocent XII. converted it into a college for
+priests, by whom it was sold to the Marquis Giraud.
+
+Facing this palace is the _Piazza Scossa Cavalli_, with a pretty
+fountain. Its name bears witness to a curious legend, which tells how
+when St. Helena returned from Palestine, bringing with her the stone on
+which Abraham was about to sacrifice Isaac, and that on which the Virgin
+Mary sate down at the time of the presentation of the Saviour in the
+Temple, the horses drawing these precious relics stood still at this
+spot, and refused every effort to make them move. Then Christian people,
+"recognising the finger of God," erected a church on this spot (S.
+Giacomo Scossa Cavalli), where the stones are still to be seen.
+
+The Strada del Borgo Sto. Spirito contains the immense _Hospital of
+Santo Spirito_, running along the bank of the Tiber. This establishment
+was founded in 1198 by Innocent III. Sixtus IV., in 1471, ordered it to
+be rebuilt by Bacio Pintelli, who added a hall 376 feet long by 44 high
+and 37 wide. Under Benedict XIV., Ferdinando Fuga built another great
+hall. The altar in the midst of the great hall is the only work of
+Andrea Palladio in Rome. The church was designed by Bacio Pintelli, but
+built by Antonio di San Gallo under Paul III. Under Gregory XIII.,
+Ottaviano Mascherino built the palace of the governor, which unites the
+hospital with the church.
+
+The institution comprises a hospital for every kind of disease,
+containing in ordinary times 1620 beds, a number which can be almost
+doubled in time of necessity; a lunatic asylum containing an average of
+450 inmates; and a foundling hospital, where children are received from
+all parts of the papal states, and even from the Neapolitan towns.
+Upwards of 3000 foundlings pass through the hospital annually, but the
+mortality is very great,--in the return of 1846, as much as fifty-seven
+per cent. The person who wishes to deposit an infant rings a bell, when
+a little bed is turned towards the grille near the door, in which the
+baby is deposited. Close to this is another grille, without any apparent
+use. "What is that for?" you ask. "Because, when nurses come in from the
+country, they might be tempted to take the children for money, and yet
+not feel any natural tenderness towards them, but by looking through the
+second grille, they can see the child, and discover if it is
+_simpatico_, and if not, they can go away and leave it."
+
+At the end of the street one enters the Piazza Rusticucci (where Raphael
+died), from which open the magnificent colonnades of Bernini, which lead
+the eye up to the façade of St. Peter's, while the middle distance is
+broken by the silvery spray of its glittering fountains.
+
+The _Colonnades_ have 284 columns, are sixty-one feet wide, and
+sixty-four high; they enclose an area of 777 English feet; they were
+built by Bernini for Alexander VII., 1657-67. In the centre is the
+famous red granite _Obelisk of the Vatican_, brought to Rome from
+Heliopolis by Caligula, in a ship which Pliny describes as being "nearly
+as long as the left side of the port of Ostia." It was used to adorn the
+circus of Nero, and was brought from a position near the present
+sacristy of St. Peter's by Sixtus V. in 1586. Here it was elevated by
+Domenico Fontana, who estimated its weight at 963,537 Roman pounds; and
+employed 800 men, 150 horses, and 46 cranes in its removal.
+
+The obelisk was first exorcised as a pagan idol, and then dedicated to
+the Cross. Its removal was preceded by high mass in St. Peter's, after
+which Pope Sixtus bestowed a solemn benediction upon Fontana and his
+workmen, and ordained that none should speak, upon pain of death, during
+the raising of the obelisk. The immense mass was slowly rising upon its
+base, when suddenly it ceased to move, and it was evident that the ropes
+were giving way. An awful moment of suspense ensued, when the breathless
+silence was broken by a cry of "Acqua alle funi!"--_throw water on the
+ropes_, and the workmen, acting on the advice so unexpectedly received,
+again saw the monster move, and gradually settle on its base. The man
+who saved the obelisk was Bresca, a sailor of Bordighiera, a village of
+the Riviera di Ponente, and Sixtus V., in his gratitude, promised him
+that his native village should ever henceforth have the privilege of
+furnishing the Easter palms to St. Peter's. A vessel laden with
+palm-branches, which abound in Bordighiera, is still annually sent to
+the Tiber in the week before Palm Sunday, and the palms, after being
+prepared and plaited by the nuns of S. Antonio Abbate, are used in the
+ceremonial in St. Peter's.
+
+The height of the whole obelisk is 132 feet, that of the shaft,
+eighty-three feet. Upon the shaft is the inscription to Augustus and
+Tiberius: "DIVO. CÆS. DIVI. JULII. F. AUGUSTO.--TI. CÆSARI. DIVI. AUG.
+F.--AUGUSTA. SACRUM." The inscriptions on the base show its modern
+dedication to the Cross[324]--"Ecce Crux Domini--Fugite partes
+adversæ--Vicit Leo de tribu Juda."
+
+     "Sixte-quint s'applaudissait du succès, comme de l'oeuvre la plus
+     gigantesque des temps modernes; des médailles furent frappées;
+     Fontana fut créé, noble romain, chevalier de l'Éperon d'or, et
+     reçut une gratification de 5,000 écus, indépendamment des matériaux
+     qui avaient servi à l'entreprise, et dont la valeur s'élevait à
+     20,000 écus (108,000 fr.); enfin des poëmes, dans toutes les
+     langues, sur ce nouveau triomphe de la croix, furent adressés aux
+     différents souverains de l'Europe."--_Gournerie, Rome Chrétienne_,
+     ii. 232.
+
+     "In summer the great square basks in unalluring magnificence in the
+     midday sun. Its tall obelisk sends but a slim shadow to travel
+     round the oval plane, like the gnomon of a huge dial; its fountains
+     murmur with a delicious dreaminess, sending up massive jets like
+     blocks of crystal into the hot sunshine, and receiving back a
+     broken spray, on which sits serene an unbroken iris, but present no
+     'cool grot,' where one may enjoy their freshness; and in spite of
+     the shorter path, the pilgrim looks with dismay at the dazzling
+     pavement and long flight of unsheltered steps between him and the
+     church, and prudently plunges into the forest of columns at either
+     side of the piazza, and threads his way through their uniting
+     shadows, intended, as an inscription[325] tells him, for this
+     express purpose."--_Cardinal Wiseman._
+
+     "Un jour Pie V. traversait, avec l'ambassadeur de Pologne, cette
+     place du Vatican. Pris d'enthousiasme au souvenir du courage des
+     martyrs qui l'ont arrosée de leurs larmes, et fertilisée par leur
+     sang, il se baisse, et saisissant dans sa main une poignée de
+     poussière: 'Tenez,' dit-il au représentant de cette noble nation,
+     'prenez cette poussière formée de la cendre des saints, et
+     imprégnée du sang des martyrs.'
+
+     "L'ambassadeur ne portait pas dans son coeur la foi d'un pape, ni
+     dans son âme les illuminations d'un saint; il reçut pourtant avec
+     respect cette rélique étrange à ses yeux: mais revenu en son
+     palais, retirant, d'une main indifférente peut-être, le linge qui
+     la contenait, il le trouva ensanglanté.
+
+     "La poussière avait disparu. La foi du pontife avait évoqué le sang
+     des martyrs, et ce sang généreux reparaissait à cet appel pour
+     attester, en face de l'hérésie, que l'Église romaine, au XVIe
+     siècle, était toujours celle pour laquelle ces héros avaient donné
+     leur vie sous Néron."--_Une Chrétienne à Rome._
+
+No one can look upon the Piazza of St. Peter's without associating it
+with the great religious ceremonies with which it is connected,
+especially that of the Easter Benediction.
+
+     "Out over the great balcony stretches a white awning, where priests
+     and attendants are collected, and where the pope will soon be seen.
+     Below, the piazza is alive with moving masses. In the centre are
+     drawn up long lines of soldiery, with yellow and red pompons, and
+     glittering helmets and bayonets. These are surrounded by crowds on
+     foot, and at the outer rim are packed carriages filled and overrun
+     with people, mounted on the seats and boxes. What a sight it
+     is!--above us the great dome of St. Peter's, and below, the grand
+     embracing colonnade, and the vast space, in the centre of which
+     rises the solemn obelisk thronged with masses of living beings.
+     Peasants from the Campagna and the mountains are moving about
+     everywhere. Pilgrims in oil-cloth cape and with iron staff demand
+     charity. On the steps are rows of purple, blue, and brown
+     umbrellas, for there the sun blazes fiercely. Everywhere crop forth
+     the white hoods of Sisters of Charity, collected in groups, and
+     showing, among the parti-coloured dresses, like beds of
+     chrysanthemums in a garden. One side of the massive colonnade casts
+     a grateful shadow over the crowd beneath, that fill up the
+     intervals of its columns; but elsewhere the sun burns down and
+     flashes everywhere. Mounted on the colonnade are crowds of people
+     leaning over, beside the colossal statues. Through all the heat is
+     heard the constant plash of the sun-lit fountains, that wave to and
+     fro their veils of white spray. At last the clock strikes. In the
+     far balcony are seen the two great showy peacock fans, and between
+     them a figure clad in white, that rises from a golden chair, and
+     spreads his great sleeves like wings as he raises his arms in
+     benediction. That is the pope, Pius the Ninth. All is dead silence,
+     and a musical voice, sweet and penetrating, is heard chanting from
+     the balcony;--the people bend and kneel; with a cold gray flash,
+     all the bayonets gleam as the soldiers drop to their knees, and
+     rise to salute as the voice dies away, and the two white wings are
+     again waved;--then thunder the cannon,--the bells clash and
+     peal,--a few white papers, like huge snow-flakes, drop wavering
+     from the balcony;--these are Indulgences, and there is an eager
+     struggle for them below;--then the pope again rises, again gives
+     his benediction,[326] waving to and fro his right hand, three
+     fingers open, and making the sign of the cross,--and the peacock
+     fans retire, and he between them is borne away,--and Lent is
+     over."--_Story's Roba di Roma._
+
+The first church which existed on or near the site of the present
+building, was the oratory founded in A.D. 90, by Anacletus, bishop of
+Rome, who is said to have been ordained by St. Peter himself, and who
+thus marked the spot where many Christian martyrs had suffered in the
+circus of Nero, and where St. Peter was buried after his crucifixion.
+
+In 306 Constantine the Great yielded to the request of Pope Sylvester,
+and began the erection of a basilica on this spot, labouring with his
+own hands at the work, and himself carrying away twelve loads of earth,
+in honour of the twelve apostles.[327] Anastasius describes how the body
+of the great apostle was exhumed at this time, and re-interred in a
+shrine of silver, enclosed in a sarcophagus of gilt bronze. The early
+basilica measured 395 feet in length by 212 in width. Its nave and
+aisles were divided by eighty-six marble pillars of different sizes, in
+great part brought from the Septizonium of Severus, and it had an
+atrium, and a _paradisus_, or quadrangular portico, along its
+front.[328] Though only half the size of the present cathedral, still it
+covered a greater space than any mediæval cathedral except those of
+Milan and Seville, with which it ranked in size.[329]
+
+The old basilica suffered severely in the Saracenic invasion of 846,
+when some authorities maintain that even the tomb of the great apostle
+was rifled of its contents, but it was restored by Leo IV., who raised
+the fortifications of the Borgo for its defence.
+
+Among the most remarkable of its early _pilgrims_ were, Theodosius, who
+came to pray for a victory over Eugenius; Valentinian, emperor of the
+East, with his wife Eudoxia, and his mother Galla-Placidia; Belisarius,
+the great general under Justinian; Totila; Cedwalla, king of the West
+Saxons, who came for baptism; Concred, king of the Mercians, who came to
+remain as a monk, having cut off and consecrated his long hair at the
+tomb of St. Peter; Luitprand, king of the Lombards; Ina of Wessex, who
+founded a church here in honour of the Virgin, that Anglo-Saxons might
+have a place of prayer, and those who died, a grave; Carloman of France,
+who came for absolution and remained as a monk, first at S. Oreste
+(Soracte), then at Monte Casino; Richard of England; Bertrade, wife of
+Pepin, and mother of Charlemagne; Offa, the Saxon, who made his kingdom
+tributary to St. Peter; Charlemagne (four times), who was crowned here
+by Leo III.; Lothaire, crowned by Paschal I.; and, in the last year of
+the reign of Leo IV., Ethelwolf, king of the Anglo-Saxons, who was
+crowned here, remained a year, and who brought with him his boy of six
+years old, afterwards the great Alfred.
+
+Of the old basilica, the crypt is now the only remnant, and there are
+collected the few relics preserved of the endless works of art with
+which it was filled, and which for the most part were lost or wilfully
+destroyed, when it was pulled down. Its destruction was first planned by
+Nicholas V. (1450), but was not carried out till the time of Julius
+II., who in 1506 began the new St. Peter's from designs of Bramante. The
+four great piers and their arches above were completed, before the
+deaths of both Bramante and Pope Julius interrupted the work. The next
+pope, Leo X., obtained a design for a church in the form of a Latin
+cross from Raphael, which was changed, after his death (on account of
+expense) to a Greek cross, by Baldassare Peruzzi, who only lived to
+complete the tribune. Paul III. (1534) employed Antonio di Sangallo as
+an architect, who returned to the design of a Latin cross, but died
+before he could carry out any of his intentions. Giulio Romano succeeded
+him and died also. Then the pope, "being inspired by God," says Vasari,
+sent for Michael Angelo, then in his seventy-second year, who continued
+the work under Julius III., returning to the plan of a Greek cross,
+enlarging the tribune and transepts, and beginning the dome on a new
+plan, which he said would "raise the Pantheon in the air." The dome
+designed by Michael Angelo, however, was very different to that which we
+now admire, being much lower, flatter, and heavier. The present dome is
+due to Giacomo della Porta, who brought the great work to a conclusion
+in 1590, under Sixtus V., who devoted 100,000 gold crowns annually to
+the building. In 1605 Paul V. destroyed all that remained of the old
+basilica, and employed Carlo Maderno as his architect, who once more
+returned to the plan of the Latin cross, and completed the present ugly
+façade in 1614. The church was dedicated by Urban VIII., November 18th,
+1626; the colonnade added by Alexander VII., 1667, the sacristy by Pius
+VI., in 1780. The building of the present St. Peter's extended
+altogether over 176 years, and its expenses were so great that Julius
+II. and Leo X. were obliged to meet them by the sale of indulgences,
+which led to the Reformation. The expense of the main building alone has
+been estimated at 10,000,000_l._ The annual expense of repairs is
+6300_l._
+
+     "St. Pierre est une sorte de ville à part dans Rome, ayant son
+     climat, sa température propre, sa lumière trop vive pour être
+     religieuse, tantôt deserte, tantôt traversée par des sociétés de
+     voyageurs, ou remplie d'une foule attirée par les cérémonies
+     religieuses (à l'époque des jubilés le nombre des pélerins s'est
+     parfois élevé à Rome, jusqu'à 400,000). Elle a ses reservoirs
+     d'eau; sa fontaine coulant perpetuellement au pied de la grande
+     coupole, dans un bassin de plomb, pour la commodité des travaux;
+     ses rampes, par lesquelles les bêtes de somme peuvent monter; sa
+     population fixe, habitant ses terrasses. Les San Pietriné, ouvriers
+     chargés de tous les travaux qu'exige la conservation d'un aussi
+     précieux edifice, s'y succèdent de père en fils, et forment une
+     corporation qui a ses lois et sa police."--_A. Du Pays._
+
+The façade of St. Peter's is 357 feet long and 144 feet high. It is
+surmounted by a balustrade six feet in height, bearing statues of the
+Saviour and the Twelve Apostles. Over the central entrance is the loggia
+where the pope is crowned, and whence he gives the Easter benediction.
+The huge inscription runs--"In. Honorem. Principis. Apost. Paulus V.
+Burghesius. Romanus. Pont. Max. A. MDCXII. Pont. VII."
+
+     "I don't like to say the façade of the church is ugly and
+     obtrusive. As long as the dome overawes, that façade is
+     supportable. You advance towards it--through, O such a noble court!
+     with fountains flashing up to meet the sunbeams; and right and left
+     of you two sweeping half-crescents of great columns; but you pass
+     by the courtiers and up to the steps of the throne, and the dome
+     seems to disappear behind it. It is as if the throne was upset, and
+     the king had toppled over."--_Thackeray, The Newcomes._
+
+A wide flight of steps, at the foot of which are statues of St. Peter
+by _De Fabris_, and St. Paul by _Tadolini_, lead by fine entrances to
+the _Vestibule_, which is 468 feet long, 66 feet high, and 50 feet wide.
+Closing it on the right is a statue of Constantine by _Bernini_--on the
+left that of Charlemagne by _Cornacchini_. Over the principal entrance
+(facing the door of the church) is the celebrated _Mosaic of the
+Navicella_, executed 1298, by _Giotto_, and his pupil, _Pietro
+Cavallini_.
+
+     "For the ancient basilica of St. Peter, Giotto executed his
+     celebrated mosaic of the Navicella, which has an allegorical
+     foundation. It represents a ship, with the disciples, on an
+     agitated sea; the winds, personified as demons, storm against it;
+     above appear the Fathers of the Old Testament speaking comfort to
+     the sufferers. According to the early Christian symbolization, the
+     ship denoted the Church. Nearer, and on the right, in a firm
+     attitude, stands Christ, the Rock of the Church, raising Peter from
+     the waves. Opposite sits a fisherman in tranquil expectation,
+     denoting the hope of the believer. The mosaic has frequently
+     changed its place, and has undergone so many restorations, that the
+     composition alone can be attributed to Giotto. The fisherman and
+     the figures hovering in the air are, in their present form, the
+     work of Marcello Provenzale."--_Kugler_, i. 127.
+
+     "This mosaic is ill placed and ill seen for an especial reason.
+     Early converts from paganism retained the heathen custom of turning
+     round to venerate the sun before entering a church, so that in the
+     old basilica, as here, the mosaic was thus placed to give a fitting
+     object of worship. The learned Cardinal Baronius never, for a
+     single day, during the space of thirty years, failed to bow before
+     this symbol of the primitive Church, tossed on the stormy sea of
+     persecution and of sin, saying, 'Lord, save me from the waves of
+     sin as thou didst Peter from the waves of the sea.' "--_Mrs.
+     Elliot's Historical Pictures._
+
+The magnificent central door of bronze is a remnant from the old
+basilica, and was made in the time of Eugenius IV., 1431--39, by Antonio
+Filarete, and Simone, brother of Donatello. The bas-reliefs of the
+compartments represent the martyrdoms of SS. Peter and Paul, and the
+principal events in the reign of Eugenius,--the Council of Florence,
+the Coronation of Sigismund, emperor of Germany, &c. The bas-reliefs of
+the framework are entirely mythological; Ganymede, Leda and her Swan,
+&c., are to be distinguished.
+
+     "Corinne fit remarquer à Lord Nelvil que sur les portes étaient
+     représentées en bas-relief les métamorphoses d'Ovide. On ne se
+     scandalise point à Rome, lui dit-elle, des images du paganisme,
+     quand les beaux-arts les ont consacrées. Les merveilles du génie
+     portent toujours à l'âme une impression religieuse, et nous faisons
+     hommage au culte chrétien de tous les chefs-d'oeuvre que les
+     autres cultes ont inspirés."--_Mad. de Staël._
+
+Let into the wall between the doors are three remarkable inscriptions:
+1. Commemorating the donation made to the church by Gregory II., of
+certain olive-grounds to provide oil for the lamps; 2. The bull of
+Boniface VIII., 1300, granting the indulgence proclaimed at every
+jubilee; 3. In the centre, the Latin epitaph of Adrian I. (Colonna,
+772-95), by Charlemagne,[330] one of the most ancient memorials of the
+papacy:
+
+    "The father of the Church, the ornament of Rome, the famous writer Adrian,
+      the blessed pope, rests in peace:
+    God was his life, love was his law, Christ was his glory;
+    He was the apostolic shepherd, always ready to do that which was right.
+    Of noble birth, and descended from an ancient race,
+    He received a still greater nobility from his virtues.
+    The pious soul of this good shepherd was always bent
+    Upon ornamenting the temples consecrated to God.
+    He gave gifts to the churches, and sacred dogmas to the people;
+    And showed us all the way to heaven.
+    Liberal to the poor, his charity was second to none,
+    And he always watched over his people in prayer.
+    By his teachings, his treasures, and his buildings, he raised,
+    O illustrious Rome, thy monuments, to be the honour of the town
+     and of the world.
+    Death could not injure him, for its sting was taken away by the
+      death of Christ;
+      It opened for him the gate of the better life.
+    I, Charles, have written these verses, while weeping for my father;
+      O my father, my beloved one, how lasting is my grief for thee.
+    Dost thou think upon me, as I follow thee constantly in spirit;
+    Now reign blessed with Christ in the heavenly kingdom.
+    The clergy and people have loved you with a heart-love,
+    Thou wert truly the love of the world, O excellent priest.
+    O most illustrious, I unite our two names and titles,
+    Adrian and Charles, the king and the father.
+    O thou who readest these verses, say with pious heart the prayer;
+    O merciful God, have pity upon them both.
+    Sweetly slumbering, O friend, may thy earthly body rest in the grave,
+    And thy spirit wander in bliss with the saints of the Lord
+    Till the last trumpet sounds in thine ears,
+    Then arise with Peter to the contemplation of God.
+    Yes, I know that thou wilt hear the voice of the merciful judge
+    Bid thee to enter the paradise of thy Saviour.
+    Then, O great father, think upon thy son,
+    And ask, that with the father the son may enter into joy.
+    Go, blessed father, enter into the kingdom of Christ,
+    And thence, as an intercessor, help thy people with thy prayers.
+    Even so long as the sun rolls upon its fiery axis,
+    Shall thy glory, O heavenly father, remain in the world.
+
+     Adrian the pope, of blessed memory, reigned for three-and-twenty
+     years, ten months, and seventeen days, and died on the 25th of
+     December."
+
+The walled-up door on the right is the _Porta Santa_, only opened for
+the jubilee, which has taken place every twenty-fifth year (except 1850)
+since the time of Sixtus IV. The pope himself gives the signal for the
+destruction of the wall on the Christmas-eve before the sacred year.
+
+     "After preliminary prayers from Scripture singularly apt, the pope
+     goes down from his throne, and, armed with a silver hammer, strikes
+     the wall in the doorway, which, having been cut round from its
+     jambs and lintel, falls at once inwards, and is cleared away in a
+     moment by the San Pietrini. The pope, then, bare-headed and torch
+     in hand, first enters the door, and is followed by his cardinals
+     and his other attendants to the high altar, where the first vespers
+     of Christmas Day are chaunted as usual. The other doors of the
+     church are then flung open, and the great queen of churches is
+     filled."--_Cardinal Wiseman._
+
+     "Arrêtez-vous un moment ici, dit Corinne à Lord Nelvil, comme il
+     était déjà sous le portique de l'église; arrêtez-vous, avant de
+     soulever le rideau qui couvre la porte du temple; votre coeur ne
+     bat-il pas à l'approche de ce sanctuaire? Et ne ressentez-vous pas,
+     au moment d'entrer, tout ce que ferait éprouver l'attente d'un
+     évènement solennel?"--_Mad. de Staël._
+
+We now push aside the heavy double curtain and enter the Basilica.
+
+     "Hilda had not always been adequately impressed by the grandeur of
+     this mighty cathedral. When she first lifted the heavy leathern
+     curtains, at one of the doors, a shadowy edifice in her imagination
+     had been dazzled out of sight by the reality."--_Hawthorne._
+
+     "The ulterior burst upon our astonished gaze, resplendent in light,
+     magnificence, and beauty, beyond all that imagination can conceive.
+     Its apparent smallness of size, however, mingled some degree of
+     surprise, and even disappointment, with my admiration; but as I
+     walked slowly up its long nave, empanelled with the rarest and
+     richest marbles, and adorned with every art of sculpture and taste,
+     and caught through the lofty arches opening views of chapels, and
+     tombs, and altars of surpassing splendour, I felt that it was,
+     indeed, unparalleled in beauty, in magnitude, and magnificence, and
+     one of the noblest and most wonderful of the works of
+     man."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+     "St Peter's, that glorious temple--the largest and most beautiful,
+     it is said, in the world, produced upon me the impression rather of
+     a Christian pantheon, than of a Christian church. The æsthetic
+     intellect is edified more than the God-loving or God-seeking soul.
+     The exterior and interior of the building appear to me more like an
+     apotheosis of the popedom than a glorification of Christianity and
+     its doctrine. Monuments to the popes occupy too much space. One
+     sees all round the walls angels flying upwards with papal
+     portraits, sometimes merely with papal tiaras."--_Frederika
+     Bremer._
+
+     "L'Architecture de St. Pierre est une musique fixée."--_Madame de
+     Staël._
+
+     "The building of St. Peter's surpasses all powers of description.
+     It appears to me like some great work of nature, a forest, a mass
+     of rocks, or something similar; for I never can realise the idea
+     that it is the work of man. You strive to distinguish the ceiling
+     as little as the canopy of heaven. You lose your way in St.
+     Peter's, you take a walk in it, and ramble till you are quite
+     tired; when divine service is performed and chaunted there, you are
+     not aware of it till you come quite close. The angels in the
+     Baptistery are enormous giants; the doves, colossal birds of prey;
+     you lose all sense of measurement with the eye, or proportion; and
+     yet who does not feel his heart expand, when standing under the
+     dome, and gazing up at it."--_Mendelssohn's Letters._
+
+    "But thou, of temples old, or altars new,
+    Standest alone--with nothing like to thee--
+    Worthiest of God, the holy and the true.
+    Since Zion's desolation, when that He
+    Forsook His former city, what could be
+    Of earthly structures, in His honour piled,
+    Of a sublimer aspect? Majesty,
+    Power, Glory, Strength, and Beauty,--all are aisled
+    In this eternal ark of worship undefiled.
+
+    "Enter: its grandeur overwhelms thee not;
+    And why? it is not lessen'd; but thy mind,
+    Expanded by the genius of the spot,
+    Has grown colossal, and can only find
+    A fit abode wherein appear enshrined
+    Thy hopes of immortality; and thou
+    Shalt one day, if found worthy, so defined,
+    See thy God face to face, as thou dost now
+    His Holy of Holies, nor be blasted by His brow."
+
+    _Byron, Childe Harold._
+
+     "On pousse avec peine une grosse portière de cuir, et nous voici
+     dans Saint-Pierre. On ne peut qu'adorer la religion qui produit de
+     telles choses. Rien du monde ne peut être comparé à l'intérieur de
+     Saint Pierre. Après un an de séjour à Rome, j'y allais encore
+     passer des heures entières avec plaisir."--_Fontana, Tempio
+     Vaticano Illustrato._
+
+     "Tandis que, dans les églises gothiques, l'impression est de
+     s'agenouiller, de joindre les mains avec un sentiment d'humble
+     prière et de profond regret; dans Saint-Pierre au contraire, le
+     mouvement involontaire serait d'ouvrir les bras en signe de joie,
+     de relever la tête avec bonheur et épanouissement. Il semble, que
+     là, le péché n'accable plus; le sentiment vif du pardon par le
+     triomphe de la résurrection remplit seul le coeur."--_Eugénie de
+     la Ferronays._
+
+     "The temperature of St. Peter's seems, like the happy islands, to
+     experience no change. In the coldest weather it is like summer to
+     your feelings, and in the most oppressive heats it strikes you with
+     a delightful sensation of cold--a luxury not to be estimated but in
+     a climate such as this."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+On each side of the nave are four pillars with Corinthian pilasters, and
+a rich entablature supporting the arches. The roof is vaulted, coffered,
+and gilded. The pavement is of coloured marble, inlaid from designs of
+Giacomo della Porta and Bernini. In the centre of the floor, immediately
+within the chief entrance, is a round slab of porphyry, upon which the
+emperors were crowned.
+
+The enormous size of the statues and ornaments in St. Peter's do away
+with the impression of its vast size, and it is only by observing the
+living, moving figures, that one can form any idea of its colossal
+proportions. A line in the pavement is marked with the comparative size
+of the other great Christian churches. According to this the length of
+St Peter's is 613-1/2 feet; of St. Paul's, London, 520-1/2 feet; Milan
+Cathedral, 443 feet; St. Sophia, Constantinople, 360-1/2 feet. The
+height of the dome in the interior is 405 feet; on the exterior, 448
+feet. The height of the baldacchino is 94-1/2 feet.
+
+The first impulse will be to go up to the shrine, around which a circle
+of eighty-six gold lamps is always burning, and to look down into the
+Confessional, where there is a beautiful kneeling statue of Pope Pius
+VI. (Braschi, 1785--1800) by _Canova_. Hence one can gaze up into the
+dome, with its huge letters in purple-blue mosaic upon a gold ground
+(each six feet long).[331] "Tu es Petrus, et super hanc petram
+ædificabo ecclesiam meam, et tibi dabo claves regni coelorum." Above
+this are four colossal mosaics of the Evangelists from designs of the
+Cav. d'Arpino; the pen of St. Luke is seven feet in length.
+
+     "The cupola is glorious, viewed in its design, its altitude, or
+     even its decorations; viewed either as a whole or as a part, it
+     enchants the eye, it satisfies the taste, it expands the soul. The
+     very air seems to eat up all that is harsh or colossal, and leaves
+     us nothing but the sublime to feast on:--a sublime peculiar as the
+     genius of the immortal architect, and comprehensible only on the
+     spot."--_Forsyth._
+
+     "Ce dôme, en le considérant même d'en bas, fait éprouver une sorte
+     de terreur; on croit voir des abîmes suspendus sur sa
+     tête."--_Madame de Staël._
+
+_The Baldacchino_, designed by Bernini in 1633, is of bronze, with gilt
+ornaments, and was made chiefly with bronze taken from the roof of the
+Pantheon. It covers the high altar, which is only used on the most
+solemn occasions. Only the pope can celebrate mass there, or a cardinal
+who is authorised by a papal brief.
+
+     "Without a sovereign priest officiating before and for his people,
+     St. Peter's is but a grand aggregation of splendid churches,
+     chapels, tombs, and works of art. With him, it becomes a whole, a
+     single, peerless temple, such as the world never saw before. That
+     central pile, with its canopy of bronze as lofty as the Farnese
+     Palace, with its deep-diving stairs leading to a court walled and
+     paved with precious stones, that yet seems only a vestibule to some
+     cavern or catacomb, with its simple altar that disdains ornament in
+     the presence of what is beyond the reach of human price,--that
+     which in truth forms the heart of the great body, placed just where
+     the heart should be, is then animated, and surrounded by living and
+     moving sumptuousness. The immense cupola above it, ceases to be a
+     dome over a sepulchre, and becomes a canopy over an altar; the
+     quiet tomb beneath is changed into the shrine of relics below the
+     place of sacrifice--the saints under the altar;--the quiet spot at
+     which a few devout worshippers at most times may be found, bowing
+     under the hundred lamps, is crowded by rising groups, beginning
+     from the lowest step, increasing in dignity and in richness of
+     sacred robes, till, at the summit and in the centre, stands supreme
+     the pontiff himself, on the very spot which becomes him, the one
+     living link in a chain, the first ring of which is rivetted to the
+     shrine of the Apostles below.... St. Peter's is only itself when
+     the pope is at the high altar, and hence only by, or for, him it is
+     used."--_Cardinal Wiseman._
+
+The four huge piers which support the dome are used as shrines for the
+four great relics of the church, viz., 1. The lance of S. Longinus, the
+soldier who pierced the side of our Saviour, presented to Innocent
+VIII., by Pierre d'Aubusson, grandmaster of the Knights of Rhodes, who
+had received it from the Sultan Bajazet;[332] 2. The head of St. Andrew,
+said to have been brought from Achaia in 1460, when its arrival was
+celebrated by Pius II.; 3. A portion of the true cross, brought by Sta.
+Helena; 4. The napkin of Sta. Veronica, said, doubtless from the
+affinity of names, to bear the impression--vera-icon--of our Saviour's
+face.
+
+     "The 'Volto-Santo,' said to be the impress of the countenance of
+     our Saviour on the handkerchief of Sta. Veronica, or Berenice,
+     which wiped his brow on the way to Calvary, was placed in the
+     Vatican by John VII., in 707, and afterwards transferred to the
+     Church of Santo Spirito, where six Roman noblemen had the care of
+     it, each taking charge of one of the keys with which it was locked
+     up. Among the privileges enjoyed for this office, was that of
+     receiving, every year, from the hospital of Santo Spirito at the
+     feast of Pentecost, two cows, whose flesh, an ancient chronicle
+     says, 'si mangiavano lì, con gran festa.' In 1440, this picture was
+     carried back to St. Peter's, whence it has not since been moved.
+     When I examined the head on the Veronica handkerchief, it struck me
+     as undoubtedly a work of early Byzantine art, perhaps of the
+     seventh or eighth century, painted on linen. It is with implicit
+     acceptance of its claims that Petrarch alludes to it--'verendam
+     populis Salvatoris Imaginem.' Ep. ix., lib. 2. During the
+     republican domination in 1849, it was rumoured that about Easter,
+     the canons of St. Peter saw the Volto-Santo turn pale, and
+     ominously change colour while they gazed upon it."--_Hemans'
+     Catholic Italy_, vol. i.
+
+The ceremony of exhibiting the relics from the balcony above the statue
+of Sta. Veronica takes place on Holy Thursday, Good Friday, and Easter
+Day, but the height is so great that nothing can really be
+distinguished.
+
+     "To-day we gazed on the Veronica--the holy impression left by our
+     Saviour's face on the cloth Sta. Veronica presented to him to wipe
+     his brow, bowed under the weight of the Cross. We had looked
+     forward to this sight for days, for seven thousand years of
+     indulgence from penance are attached to it.
+
+     "But when the moment came we could see nothing but a black board
+     hung with a cloth, before which another white cloth was held. In a
+     few minutes this was withdrawn, and the great moment was over, the
+     glimpse of the sacred thing on which hung the fate of seven
+     thousand years."--_Schönberg-Cotta Chronicles._
+
+The niches in the piers are occupied by four statues, of Longinus, St.
+Andrew, Sta. Helena, and Sta. Veronica, holding the napkin or
+"sudarium," "flourishing a marble pocket-handkerchief."[333]
+
+     "Malheureusement toutes ces statues pèchent par le goût. Le rococo,
+     mis à la mode par le Bernin, est surtout exécrable dans le genre
+     colossale. Mais la présence du génie de Bramante et de Michel-Ange
+     se fait tellement sentir, que les choses ridicules ne le sont plus
+     ici; elles ne sont qu' insignifiantes. Les statues colossales des
+     piliers représentent: St. André, par François Quesnoy (Fiammingo),
+     elle excita la jalousie du Bernin; St. Veronique par M. Mochi, dont
+     il blamait les draperies volantes (dans un endroit clos). Un
+     plaisant lui répondait que leur agitation provenait du vent qui
+     soufflait par les crevasses de la coupole, depuis qu'il avait
+     affaibli les piliers par des niches et tribunes: St. Hélène par A.
+     Bolgi, St. Longin par Bernin."--_A. Du Pays._
+
+Not very far from the confessional, against the last pier on the right
+of the nave, stands the statue of St. Peter, said to have been cast by
+Leo the Great, from the old statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. It is of very
+rude workmanship. Its extended foot is eagerly kissed by Roman Catholic
+devotees, who then rub their foreheads against its toes. Protestants
+wonder at the feeling which this figure excites. Gregory II. wrote of it
+to Leo the Isaurian: "Christ is my witness, that when I enter the temple
+of the prince of the Apostles, and contemplate his image, I am filled
+with such emotion, that tears roll down my cheeks like the rain from
+heaven." On high festivals the statue is dressed up in full pontificals.
+On the day of the jubilee of Pius IX. (June 16, 1871), it was attired in
+a lace alb, stole, and gold-embroidered cope, fastened at the breast by
+a clasp of diamonds; and its foot was kissed by upwards of 20,000
+persons during the day.
+
+     "La coutume antique chez les Grecs d'habiller et de parer les
+     statues sacrées s'était conservée à Rome et s'y conserve encore.
+     Tout le monde a vu la statue de saint Pierre revêtir dans les
+     grandes solennités ses magnifiques habits de pape. On lavait les
+     statues des dieux, on les frottait, on les frisait comme des
+     poupées. Les divinités du Capitole avaient un nombreux domestique
+     attaché à leur personne et qui était chargé de ce soin. L'usage
+     romain a subsisté chez les populations latines de l'Espagne et
+     elles l'ont porté jusqu'au Mexique où j'ai vu, à Puebla, la veille
+     d'une fête, une femme de chambre faire une toilette en règle à une
+     statue de la Vierge."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iv. 91.
+
+Along the piers of the nave and transepts are ranged statues of the
+different Founders, male and female, of religious Orders.
+
+Returning to the main entrance, we will now make the tour of the
+basilica. Those who expect to find monuments of great historical
+interest will, however, be totally disappointed. Scarcely anything
+remains above-ground which is earlier than the sixteenth century. Of the
+tombs of the eighty-seven popes who were buried in the old basilica, the
+greater part were totally lost at its destruction,--a few were removed
+to other churches (those of the Piccolomini to S. Andrea della Valle,
+&c.), and some fragments are still to be seen in the crypt. Only two
+monuments were replaced in the new basilica, those of the two popes who
+lived in the time and excited the indignation of Savonarola--"Sixtus
+IV., with whose cordial concurrence the assassination of Lorenzo di
+Medici was attempted--and Innocent VIII., the main object of whose
+policy was to secure place and power for his illegitimate children."
+
+     "The side-chapels are splendid, and so large that they might serve
+     for independent churches. The monuments and statues are numerous,
+     but all are subordinate, or unite harmoniously with the large and
+     beautiful proportions of the chief temple. Everything there is
+     harmony, light, beauty--an image of the church-triumphant, but a
+     very worldly, earthly image; and whilst the mind enjoys its
+     splendour, the soul cannot, in the higher sense, be edified by its
+     symbolism."--_Frederika Bremer._
+
+The first chapel on the right derives its name from the _Pietà of
+Michael Angelo_, representing the dead Saviour upon the knees of the
+Madonna, a work of the great artist in his twenty-fourth year, upon an
+order from the French ambassador, Cardinal Jean de Villiers, abbot of
+St. Denis. The sculptor has inscribed his name (the only instance in
+which he has done so) upon the girdle of the Virgin. Francis I.
+attempted to obtain this group from Michael Angelo in 1507, together
+with the statue of Christ at the Minerva, "comme de choses que l'on m'a
+assuré estre des plus exquises et excellentes en votre art." Opening
+from this chapel are two smaller ones. That on the right has a Crucifix
+by _Pietro Cavallini_; the mosaic, representing St. Nicholas of Bari, is
+by _Christofari_. That on the left is called _Cappella della Colonna
+Santa_, from a column, said to have been brought from Jerusalem, and to
+have been that against which our Saviour leant, when he prayed and
+taught in the temple. It is inscribed:
+
+     "Hæc est illa columna in qua DNS Nr Jesus XPS appodiatus dum
+     populo prædicabat et Deo p[=n]o preces in templo effundebat
+     adhærendo, stabatque una cum aliis undeci hic circumstantibus de
+     Salomonis templo in triumphum. Hujus Basilicæ hic locata fuit
+     demones expellit et immundis spiritibus vexatos liberos reddit et
+     multa miracula cotidie facit. P. reverendissimum pre[=m] et Dominum
+     Dominus. Card. de Ursinis. A.D. MDCCCXXXVIII."
+
+A more interesting object in this chapel is the sarcophagus (once used
+as a font) of Anicius Probus, a prefect of Rome in the fourth century,
+of the great family of the Anicii, to which St. Gregory the Great
+belonged. Its five compartments have bas-reliefs, representing Christ
+and the Apostles.
+
+Returning to the aisle, on the right, is the tomb of Leo XII., Annibale
+della Genga (1823--29) by _Fabris_; on the left is the tomb of Christina
+of Sweden, daughter of Gustavus Adolphus, who died at Rome, 1689, by
+_Carlo Fontana_, with a bas-relief by Teudon, representing her
+abjuration of Protestantism in 1655, in the cathedral of Innspruck.
+
+On the right is the altar of St. Sebastian, with a mosaic copy of
+Domenichino's picture at Sta. Maria degli Angeli; beyond which is the
+tomb of Innocent XII., Antonio Pignatelli (1691--1700). This was the
+last pope who wore the martial beard and moustache, which we see
+represented in his statue. Pignatella is Italian for a little cream-jug;
+in allusion to this we may see three little cream-jugs in the upper
+decorations of this monument, which is by _Filippo Valle_. On the left
+is the tomb, by _Bernini_, of the Countess Matilda, foundress of the
+temporal power of the popes, who died in 1115, was buried in a monastery
+near Mantua, and transported hither by Urban VIII. in 1635. The
+bas-relief represents the absolution of Henry IV. of Germany, by
+Hildebrand, which took place at her intercession and in her presence.
+
+We now reach, on the right, the large _Chapel of the Santissimo
+Sacramento_, decorated with a fresco altar-piece, representing the
+Trinity, by _Pietro da Cortona_, and a tabernacle of lapis-lazuli and
+gilt bronze, copied from Bramante's little temple at S. Pietro in
+Montorio. Here is the magnificent tomb of Sixtus IV., Francesco della
+Rovere (1471--81), removed from the choir of the old St. Peter's, where
+it was erected by his nephew, Cardinal Giulio della Rovere, afterwards
+Pope Julius II. This pope's reign was entirely occupied with politics,
+and he was secretly involved in the conspiracy of the Pazzi at Florence;
+he was the first pope who carried nepotism to such an extent as to found
+a principality (Imola and Forli) for his nephew Girolamo Riario. The
+tomb is a beautiful work of the Florentine artist, _Antonio Pollajuola_,
+in 1493. The figure of the pope reposes upon a bronze couch, surrounded,
+in memory of his having taught successively in the six great
+universities of Italy, with allegorical bas-reliefs of Arithmetic,
+Astrology, Philology, Rhetoric, Grammar, Perspective, Music, Geography,
+Philosophy, and Theology, which last is represented like a pagan Diana,
+with a quiver of arrows on her shoulders. Close to this monument of his
+uncle, a flat stone in the pavement marks the grave of Julius II., for
+whom the grand tomb at S. Pietro in Vincoli was intended.
+
+Returning to the aisle, we see on the right the tomb of Gregory XIII.,
+Ugo Buoncompagni (1572--85), during whose reign the new calendar was
+invented, an event commemorated in a bas-relief upon the monument,
+which was not erected till 1723, and is by _Camillo Rusconi_. The figure
+of the pope (he died aged eighty-four) is in the attitude of
+benediction: beneath are Wisdom, represented as Minerva, and Faith,
+holding a tablet inscribed, "Novi opera hujus et fidem." Opposite this
+is the paltry tomb of Gregory XIV., Nicolo Sfrondati (1590--91).
+
+     "Le tombeau de Gregoire XIII., que le massacre de Saint Barthélemy
+     réjouit si fort, est de marbre. Le tombeau de stuc ou d'abord il
+     avait été placé, a été accordé, après son départ, au cendres de
+     Grégoire XIV."--_Stendhal._
+
+On the left, against the great pier, is a mosaic copy of Domenichino's
+Communion of St. Jerome. On the right is the chapel of the Madonna,
+founded by Gregory XIII., and built by Giacomo della Porta. The cupola
+has mosaics by Girolamo Muziano. Beneath the altar is buried St. Gregory
+Nazianzen, removed hither from the convent of Sta. Maria in the Campo
+Marzo by Gregory XIII.
+
+     St. Gregory Nazianzen (or St. Gregory Theologos) was son of St.
+     Gregory and St. Nonna, and brother of St. Gorgonia and St. Cesarea.
+     He was born _c._ A.D. 328. In his childhood he was influenced by a
+     vision of the two virgins, Temperance and Chastity, summoning him
+     to pursue them to the joys of Paradise. Being educated at Athens
+     (together with Julian the Apostate), he formed there a great
+     friendship with St. Basil. He became first the coadjutor,
+     afterwards the successor, of his father, in the bishopric of
+     Nazianzen, but removed thence to Constantinople, where he preached
+     against the Arians. By the influence of Theodosius, he was ordained
+     Bishop of Constantinople, but was so worn out by the cabals and
+     schisms in the Church, that he resigned his office, and retired to
+     his paternal estate, where he passed the remainder of his life in
+     the composition of Greek hymns and poems. He died May 9, A.D. 390.
+
+On the right is the tomb of Benedict XIV., Prospero Lambertini
+(1740--58), by _Pietro Bracci_, a huge and ugly monument. On the left
+is the tomb of Gregory XVI., Mauro-Cappellari (1831--46), by _Amici_,
+erected in 1855 by the cardinals he had created.
+
+Turning into the right transept, used as a council-chamber (for which
+purpose it proved thoroughly unsatisfactory), 1869--70, we find several
+fine mosaics from pictures, viz.: The Martyrdom of SS. Processus and
+Martinianus from the Valentin at the Vatican; the Martyrdom of St.
+Erasmus from Poussin; St. Wenceslaus, king of Bohemia, from Caroselli;
+Our Saviour walking on the sea to the boat of St. Peter, from Lanfranco.
+
+Opposite to the last-named mosaic is the famous monument of Clement
+XIII., Carlo Rezzonico (1758--69), in whose reign the Order of Jesuits
+was attacked by all the sovereigns of the house of Bourbon, and expelled
+from Portugal, France, Spain, Naples, and Parma. The pope, who had long
+defended them, was about to yield to the pressure put upon him and had
+called a consistory for their suppression, but died suddenly on the
+evening before its assembling. This tomb, the greatest work of Canova,
+was uncovered April 4, 1795, in the presence of an immense crowd, with
+whom the sculptor mingled, disguised as an abbé, to hear their opinion.
+The pope (aged 75) is represented in prayer, upon a pedestal, beneath
+which is the entrance to a vault, guarded by two grand marble lions. On
+the right is Religion, standing erect with a cross; on the left the
+Genius of Death, holding a torch reversed. The beauty of this work of
+Canova is only felt when it is compared with the monuments of the
+seventeenth century in St. Peter's; "then it seems as if they were
+separated by an abyss of centuries."[334]
+
+Beyond this are mosaics from the St. Michael of Guido at the Cappuccini,
+and from the Martyrdom of St. Petronilla, of Guercino, at the Capitol.
+Each of these large mosaics has cost about 150,000 francs.
+
+Now, on the right, is the tomb of Clement X., Gio. Baptista Altieri
+(1670--76), by _Rossi_, the statue by _Ercole Ferrata_; and on the left,
+is a mosaic of St. Peter raising Tabitha from the dead, by Costanzi.
+
+Ascending into the tribune, we see at the end of the church, beneath the
+very ugly window of yellow glass, the "Cathedra Petri" of _Bernini_,
+supported by figures of the four Fathers of the Church, Augustine,
+Ambrose, Chrysostom, and Athanasius. Enclosed in this, is a very ancient
+wooden senatorial chair, encrusted with ivory, which is believed to have
+been the episcopal throne of St. Peter and his immediate successors.
+Late Roman Catholic authorities (Mgr. Gerbet, &c.) consider that it may
+perhaps have been originally the chair of the senator Pudens, with whom
+the apostle lodged. A magnificent festival in honour of St. Peter's
+chair (Natale Petri de Cathedra) has been annually celebrated here from
+the earliest times, and is mentioned in a calendar of Pope Liberius of
+A.D. 354. It was said that if any pope were to reign longer than the
+traditional years of the government of St. Peter (Pius IX. is the first
+pope who has done so), St. Peter's chair would be again brought into
+use.
+
+On the right of the chair is the tomb of Urban VIII., Matteo Barberini
+(1623--44), who was chiefly remarkable from his passion for building,
+and who is perpetually brought to mind through the immense number of his
+erections which still exist. The tomb is by _Bernini_, the architect of
+his endless fountains and public buildings, and has the usual fault of
+this sculptor in overloading his figures (except in that of Urban
+himself, which is very fine,[335]) with meaningless drapery. Figures of
+Charity and Justice stand by the black marble sarcophagus of the pope,
+and a gilt skeleton is occupied in inscribing the name of Urban on the
+list of Death. The whole monument is alive with the bees of the
+Barberini. The pendant tomb on the left is that of Paul III., Alessandro
+Farnese (1534--50), in whose reign the Order of the Jesuits was founded.
+This pope (the first Roman who had occupied the throne for 103
+years--since Martin V.) was learned, brilliant, and witty. He was adored
+by his people, in spite of his intense nepotism, which induced him to
+form Parma into a duchy for his natural son Pierluigi, to build the
+Farnese Palace, and to marry his grandson Ottavio to Marguerite, natural
+daughter of Charles V., to whom he gave the Palazzo Madama and the Villa
+Madama as a dowry. His tomb, by _Guglielmo della Porta_, perhaps the
+finest in St. Peter's, cost 24,000 Roman crowns; it was erected in the
+old basilica just before its destruction in 1562,--and in 1574 was
+transferred to this church, where its position was the source of a
+quarrel between the sculptor and Michael Angelo, by whose interest he
+had obtained his commission.[336] It was first placed on the site where
+the Veronica now stands, whence it was moved to its present position in
+1629. The figure of the pope is in bronze. In its former place four
+marble statues adorned the pedestal; two are now removed to the Farnese
+Palace; those which remain, of Prudence and Justice, were once entirely
+nude, but were draped by Bernini. The statue of Prudence is said to
+represent Giovanna Gaetani da Sermoneta, the mother of the pope, and
+that of Justice his famous sister-in-law, Giulia.
+
+     "On a dit de ces figures que c'était le Rubens en sculpture."--_A.
+     Du Pays._
+
+Near the steps of the tribune are two marble slabs, on which Pius IX.
+has immortalised the names of the cardinals and bishops who, on December
+8, 1854, accepted, on this spot, his dogma of the Immaculate Conception.
+
+Turning towards the left transept;--on the left is a mosaic of St. Peter
+healing the lame man, from _Mancini_. On the right is the tomb of
+Alexander VIII., Pietro Ottobuoni (1689--91), by _Giuseppe Verlosi_ and
+_Angelo Rossi_, gorgeous in its richness of bronze, marbles, and
+alabasters. Beyond this is the altar of Leo the Great, over which is a
+huge bas-relief, by _Algardi_, representing S. Leo calling down the
+assistance of SS. Peter and Paul against the invasion of Attila.
+
+     "The king of the Huns, terrified by the apparition of the two
+     apostles in the air, turns his back and flies. We have here a
+     picture in marble, with all the faults of taste and style which
+     prevailed at that time, but the workmanship is excellent; it is,
+     perhaps, the largest bas-relief in existence, excepting the rock
+     sculpture of the Indians and Egyptians--at least fifteen feet in
+     height."--_Jameson's Sacred Art_, p. 685.
+
+Next to this is the Cappella della Colonna, possessing a much revered
+Madonna from a pillar of the old basilica, and beneath it an ancient
+Christian sarcophagus containing the remains of Leo II. (ob. 683), Leo
+III. (ob. 816), and Leo IV. (ob. 855). In the pavement near these two
+altars is the slab tomb of Leo XII. (ob. 1828), with an epitaph
+illustrating Invocation of Saints, but touching in its humility.
+
+     "Commending myself, a suppliant, to my great celestial patron Leo,
+     I, Leo XII., his humble client, unworthy of so great a name, have
+     chosen a place of sepulture, near his holy ashes."
+
+Over the door known as the Porta Sta. Marta (from the church in the
+square behind St. Peter's, to which it leads), is the tomb of Alexander
+VII., Fabio Chigi (1655--67), the last work of _Bernini_, who had built
+for this pope the Scala-Regia and the Colonnade of St. Peter's. This is,
+perhaps, the worst of all the papal monuments--a hideous figure of Death
+is pushing aside an alabaster curtain and exhibiting his hour-glass to
+the kneeling pope.
+
+Opposite to this tomb is an oil painting on slate, by _Francesco Vanni_,
+of the Fall of Simon Magus. The south transept has a series of mosaic
+pictures; The Incredulity of St. Thomas from Camuccini, the Crucifixion
+of St. Peter and a St. Francis from Guido, and, on the pier of the
+Cupola, Ananias and Sapphira from the Roncalli at Sta. Maria degli
+Angeli, and the Transfiguration from Raphael.[337]
+
+Opposite the mosaic of Ananias and Sapphira is the last tomb erected in
+St. Peter's, that of Pius VIII., Francesco Castiglione (1829--31), by
+_Tenerani_. It represents the pope kneeling, and above him the Saviour
+in benediction, with SS. Peter and Paul. It is of no great merit.
+
+The Cappella Clementina has the Miracle of St. Gregory the Great from
+the Andrea Sacchi at the Vatican. Close to this is the fine tomb of Pius
+VII., Gregorio Chiaramonte (1800--23), who crowned Napoleon,--who
+suffered exile for seven years for refusing to abdicate the temporal
+power,--and who returned in triumph to die at the Quirinal, after having
+re-established the Order of the Jesuits. His monument is the work of
+_Thorwaldsen_, graceful and simple, though perhaps too small to be in
+proportion to the neighbouring tombs. The figure of the pope, a gentle
+old man (he died at the age of eighty-one, having reigned twenty-three
+years), is seated in a chair; figures of Courage and Faith adorn the
+pedestal. The tomb was erected by Cardinal Gonsalvi, the faithful friend
+and minister of this pope (who died very poor, having spent all his
+wealth in charity), at an expense of 27,000 scudi.
+
+Turning into the left aisle,--on the right is the tomb of Leo XI.,
+Alessandro de Medici (1605), to which one is inclined to grudge so much
+space, considering that the pope it commemorates only reigned twenty-six
+days. The tomb, in allusion to this short life, is sculptured with
+flowers, and bears the motto, _Sic Florui_. It is the work of _Algardi_.
+The figures of Wisdom and Abundance, which adorn the pedestal, are fine
+specimens of this allegorical type.
+
+Opposite, is the tomb of Innocent XI., Benedetto Odescalchi (1676--89),
+by _Etienne Monot_, with a bas-relief representing the raising of the
+siege of Vienna by King John Sobieski.
+
+Near this, is the entrance to the Cappella del Coro, the very
+inconvenient chapel (decorated with gilding and stucco by Giacomo della
+Porta), in which the vesper services are held. The altar-piece is a
+mosaic copy of the Conception by Pietro Bianchi at the Angeli. In the
+pavement is the gravestone of Clement XI., Giov. Francesco Albani
+(1700--21).
+
+Under the next arch of the aisle, on the left, is the interesting tomb
+of Innocent VIII., Gio. Battista Cibò (1484--92), by Pietro and Antonio
+Pollajuolo. The pope is represented asleep upon his sarcophagus, and a
+second time above, seated on a throne, his right hand extended in
+benediction, and his left holding the sacred lance of Longinus (said to
+have been that which pierced the side of our Saviour), sent to him by
+the sultan Bajazet. It is supposed that it was owing to the
+representation of this relic, that this tomb alone (except that of
+Sixtus IV., uncle of the destroyer), was replaced after the destruction
+of the old basilica. Upon the sarcophagus of the pope is inscribed, in
+allusion to the name of Innocent, the 11th verse of the 26th Psalm, "In
+innocentiâ meâ ingressus sum, redime me Domine et miserere mei."
+Opposite, is a tomb which is a kind of Memento Mori to the living pope,
+which always bears the name of his predecessor, and in which his corpse
+will be deposited, till his real tomb is prepared. "This tomb is now
+empty, and awaits its prey, Pius IX."[338]
+
+Passing the Cappella della Presentazione, which contains a mosaic from
+the "Presentation of the Virgin," by _Romanelli_, we reach the last
+arch, which contains the tombs of the Stuarts. On the right is the
+monument, by _Filippo Barigioni_, of Maria Clementina Sobieski, wife of
+James III., called in the inscription "Queen of Great Britain, France,
+and Ireland"; on the left is that by Canova to the three Stuart princes,
+James III. and his sons, Charles Edward, and Henry--Cardinal York. It
+bears this inscription:
+
+                  "JACOBO III.
+      JACOBI II., MAGNÆ BRIT. REGIS FILIO
+                KAROLO EDOARDO
+          ET HENRICO, DECANO PATRUM
+                  CARDINALIUM,
+              JACOBI III. FILIIS,
+      REGLÆ STIRPIS STVARDIÆ POSTREMIS
+                ANNO MDCCCXIX
+    BEATI MORTUI QUI IN DOMINO MORIUNTUR."
+
+     "George IV., fidèle à sa réputation du _gentleman_ le plus accompli
+     des trois royaumes, a voulu honorer la cendre des princes
+     malheureux que de leur vivant il eût envoyés à l'échafaud s'ils
+     fussent tombés en son pouvoir."--_Stendhal._
+
+     "Beneath the unrivalled dome of St. Peter's, lie mouldering the
+     remains of what was once a brave and gallant heart; and a stately
+     monument from the chisel of Canova, and at the charge, as I
+     believe, of the house of Hanover, has since arisen to the memory of
+     _James the Third, Charles the Third, and Henry the Ninth, Kings of
+     England_,--names which an Englishman can scarcely read without a
+     smile or a sigh! Often at the present day does the British
+     traveller turn from the sunny crest of the Pincian, or the carnival
+     throng of the Corso, to gaze, in thoughtful silence, on that
+     mockery of human greatness, and that last record of ruined hopes!
+     The tomb before him is of a race justly expelled; the magnificent
+     temple that enshrines it is of a faith wisely reformed; yet who at
+     such a moment would harshly remember the errors of either, and
+     might not join in the prayer even of that erring Church for the
+     departed, 'Requiescant in pace.'"--_Lord Mahon._
+
+The last chapel is the Baptistery, and contains, as a font, the ancient
+porphyry cover of the sarcophagus of Hadrian, which was afterwards used
+for the tomb of the Emperor Otho II. The mosaic of the Baptism of our
+Saviour is from Carlo Maratta.
+
+Distributed around the whole basilica are confessionals for every
+Christian tongue.
+
+     "Au milieu de toutes les créations hardies et splendides de l'art
+     dans le basilique de St. Pierre, il est une impression morale qui
+     saisit l'esprit, à la vue des confessionaux des diverses langues.
+     Il y a là encore une autre espèce de grandeur."--_A. Du Pays._
+
+_The Crypt of St. Peter's_ can always be visited by gentlemen, on
+application in the sacristy; but by ladies only with a special
+permission. The entrance is near the statue of Sta. Veronica. The
+visitor is terribly hurried in his inspection of this, the most
+historically interesting part of the basilica, and the works of art it
+contains are so ill-arranged, as to be difficult to investigate or
+remember. The crypt is divided into two portions, the _Grotte Nuove_,
+occupying the area beneath the dome, and opening into some ancient
+lateral chapels,--and the _Grotte Vecchie_, which extended under the
+whole nave of the old basilica, and reaches as far as the Cappella del
+Coro of the present edifice.
+
+The first portion entered is a corridor in the Grotte Nuove. Hence open,
+on the right, two ancient chapels. The first, _Sta. Maria in Portico_,
+derives its name from a picture of the Virgin, attributed to _Simone
+Memmi_, which stood in the portico of the old basilica; it contains,
+besides several statues from the magnificent monument of Nicholas V.,
+which perished with the old church, a statue of St. Peter which stood in
+the portico, and the cross which crowned its summit. The second chapel,
+_Sta. Maria delle Partorienti_, has a mosaic of our Saviour in
+benediction, from the tomb of Otho II.; a mosaic of the Virgin, of the
+eighth century; several ancient inscriptions; and, at the entrance,
+statues of the two apostles James, from the tomb of Nicholas V. Behind
+this chapel were preserved the remains of Leo II., III., and IX., till
+they were removed to the upper church by Leo XII.
+
+Entering the _Grotte Vecchie_, we find a nave and aisles separated by
+pilasters with low arches. Following the south aisle we are first
+arrested by the marble inscription relating to the donation of lands
+made by the Countess Matilda to the church in 1102. Near this is the
+small _Cappella del Salvatore_, containing a bas-relief of the Virgin
+and Child by _Arnolfo_, which once decorated the tomb of Boniface
+VIII.,--and the grave of Charlotte, Queen of Cyprus, who died in 1487.
+Near this are the sepulchral urns of the three Stuart princes,
+commemorated in the upper church. At the end of this aisle is the tomb
+of the Emperor Otho II., who died at Rome in A.D. 983; this formerly
+stood in the portico of the basilica.
+
+Here is the empty tomb of Alexander VI., Rodrigo Borgia (1492--1503),
+the wicked and avaricious father of Cæsar and Lucretia, who is believed
+to have died of the poison which he intended for one of his cardinals.
+The body of this pope was not allowed to rest in peace. Julius II., the
+bitter enemy of the Borgias, turned it out of its tomb, and had it
+carried to S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli, whence, when that church was
+pulled down, it was taken to Sta. Maria di Monserrato. The empty
+sarcophagus is surmounted by the figure of Alexander, who was himself a
+handsome old man, and in whose features may be traced the lineaments of
+the splendid Cæsar Borgia, known to us from the picture in the Borghese
+Palace.
+
+At the end of the central nave is the sarcophagus of Christina of
+Sweden, who has a monument in the upper church.
+
+The first tomb in the south aisle, beginning from the west, is that of
+Boniface VIII., Benedetto Gaetani (1294--1303).
+
+     "The last prince of the Church, who understood the papacy in the
+     sense of universal dominion, in the spirit of Gregory VII., of
+     Alexander and Innocent III. Two kings held the bridle of his
+     palfrey as he rode from St Peter's to the Lateran after his
+     election. He received Dante as the ambassador of Florence; in 1300
+     he instituted the jubilee; and his reign--filled with contests with
+     Philip le Bel of France and the Colonnas--ended in his being taken
+     prisoner in his palace at Anagni by Sciarra Colonna and William of
+     Nogaret, and subjected to the most cruel indignities. He was
+     rescued by his fellow-citizens and conducted to Rome by the Orsini,
+     but he died thirty seven days after of grief and mortification. The
+     Ghibelline story relates that he sate alone silently gnawing the
+     top of his staff, and at length dashed out his brains against the
+     wall, or smothered himself with his own pillows. But the
+     contemporary verse of the Cardinal St. George describes him as
+     dying quietly in the midst of his cardinals, at peace with the
+     world, and having received all the consolations of the
+     Church."--_See Milman's Latin Christianity_, vol. V.
+
+The character of Boniface has ever been one of the battlefields of
+history. He was scarcely dead when the epitaph, "He came in like a fox,
+he ruled like a lion, he died like a dog," was proclaimed to
+Christendom. He was consigned by Dante to the lowest circle of Hell; yet
+even Dante expressed the universal shock with which Christendom beheld
+"the Fleur de lis enter Anagni, and Christ again captive in his
+Vicar,--the mockery, the gall and vinegar, the crucifixion between
+living robbers, the cruelty of the second Pilate." In later times,
+Tosti, Drumann, and lastly, Cardinal Wiseman, have engaged in his
+defence.
+
+Boniface VIII. was buried with the utmost magnificence in a splendid
+chapel, which he had built himself, and adorned with mosaics, and where
+a grand tomb was erected to him. Of this nothing remains now, but the
+sarcophagus, which bears a majestic figure of the pope by _Arnolfo del
+Cambio_.
+
+     "The head is unusually beautiful, severe and noble in its form, and
+     corresponds perfectly with the portrait which we have (at the
+     Lateran) from the hand of Giotto, which represents his face as
+     beardless and of the most perfect oval. His head is covered by a
+     long, pointed mitre, like a sugar-loaf, decked with two crowns.
+     This proud man was indeed the first who wore the double crown,--all
+     his predecessors having been content with a simple crowned mitre.
+     This new custom existed till the tune of Urban V., by whom the
+     third crown was added."--_Gregorovius, Grabmäler der Päpste._
+
+Close to that of Boniface are the sarcophagi of Pius II., Æneas Sylvius
+Piccolomini (1458--64) and Pius III., Antonio Todeschini Piccolomini
+(1503), whose monuments are removed to S. Andrea della Valle.
+
+Next beyond Boniface is the tomb of Adrian IV. (Nicholas Breakspeare,
+1154--59), the only Englishman who ever occupied the papal throne.[339]
+He is buried in a pagan sarcophagus of red granite, adorned with Medusa
+heads in relief, and without any inscription.
+
+Opposite this, is a sarcophagus bearing the figure of Nicholas V.,
+Tomaso di Sarzana(1447--55), being nearly all that has been preserved of
+the glorious tomb of that pope, who founded the Vatican library,
+collected around him a court of savants and poets, and "with whom opened
+the age of papacy to which belonged the times of Julius II. and Leo X."
+His epitaph, attributed to Pius II., is by his secretary Mafeo Vegio.
+
+    "The bones of Nicholas V. rest in this grave,
+    Who gave to thee, O Rome! thy golden age.
+    Famous in council, more famous in shining virtue,
+    He honoured wise men, who was himself the wisest of all.
+    He gave healing to the world, long wounded with schism,
+    And renewed at once its manners and customs, and the buildings
+     and temples of the city.
+    He gave an altar to St. Bernardino of Siena
+    When he celebrated the holy year of jubilee.
+    He crowned with gold the forehead of Frederick and his wife,
+    And gave order to the affairs of Italy by the treaty which he made.
+    He translated many Greek writings into the Latin tongue;--
+    Then offer incense to-day at his holy grave."
+
+Next comes a remnant of the tomb of Paul II., Pietro Barbo (1464--71),
+chiefly remarkable for his personal beauty, of which he was so vain,
+that when he issued from the conclave as pope, he wished to take the
+name of Formosus. This pontiff built the Palazzo S. Marco, and gave a
+name to the Corso, by establishing the races there. He also prepared for
+himself one of the most splendid tombs in the old basilica, for which he
+obtained Mino da Fiesole as an architect It was his wish to lie in the
+porphyry sarcophagus of Sta. Costanza, which he stole from her church
+for this purpose; hence the simplicity of the existing sarcophagus,
+which bears his effigy. Beyond this, are sarcophagi of Julius III., Gio.
+Maria Ciocchi del Monte (1550--55), builder of the Villa Papa Giulio;
+and Nicholas III., Orsini (1277--81), who made a treaty with Rudolph of
+Hapsburg, and obtained from him a ratification of the donation of the
+Countess Matilda. Then comes the sarcophagus of Urban VI., Bartolomeo
+Prignani (1378--87), the sole relic of a most magnificent tomb of this
+cruel pope, who is believed to have died of poison. It bears his figure,
+and in the front, a bas-relief of him receiving the keys from St. Peter.
+His epitaph runs:
+
+    "Here rests the just, wise, and noble prince,
+    Urban VI., a native of Naples.
+    He, full of zeal, gave a safe refuge to the teachers of the faith.
+    That gained for him, noble one, a fatal poison cup at the close
+     of the repast.
+    Great was the schism, but great was his courage in opposing it,
+    And in the presence of this mighty pope Simony sate dumb.
+    But it is needless to reiterate his praises upon earth,
+    While heaven is shining with his immortal glory."
+
+     "Sepelitur in beati Petri Basilica, paucis admodum ejus mortem,
+     utpote hominis rustici et inexorabilis, flentibus. Hujus autem
+     sepulchrum adhuc visitur cum epitaphio satis rustico et
+     inepto."--_Platina._
+
+Next come the sarcophagi of Innocent VII., Cosmato de Miliorati
+(1404--6), bearing his figure; of Marcellus II., Marcello Cervini
+(1555), who only reigned twenty-five days; and of Innocent IX., Giov.
+Antonio Facchinetti (1591--92), who reigned only sixty.
+
+Near these is the urn of Agnese Gaetani Colonna, the only lady not of
+royal birth buried in the basilica.
+
+Hence we return to the corridor of the Grotte Nuove, containing a number
+of mosaics and statues detached from different papal tombs, the best
+being those from that of Nicholas V. and that of Paul II., by _Mino da
+Fiesole_ (a figure of Charity is especially beautiful), and a bas-relief
+of the Virgin and Child, by _Arnolfo_, from the tomb of Benedict VIII.
+
+Here also are a half-length statue of Boniface VIII., ascribed to
+_Andrea Pisano_; a half-length of Benedict XII., by _Paolo di Siena_;
+and a figure of St. Peter seated on a gothic throne which once supported
+a statue of Benedict XII.
+
+The _Chapel of St. Longinus_ has a mosaic from a picture by Andrea
+Sacchi. Near the entrance of the shrine are marble reliefs of the
+martyrdoms of St. Peter and St. Paul. Opposite to the entrance of the
+shrine is the magnificent sarcophagus of Junius Bassus, Christian
+prefect of Rome, who died A.D. 359. It was discovered near its present
+site in 1595. It is adorned with admirable sculptures from the Old and
+New Testament.
+
+Opening from the centre of the circular passage is the _Confession or
+Shrine of SS. Peter and Paul_, which contains the sarcophagus brought
+from the Catacomb near S. Sebastiano in 257, and which the Roman
+Catholic Church has always revered as that of St. Peter. On the altar,
+consecrated in 1122, are two ancient pictures of St. Peter and St.
+Paul. Only half the bodies of the saints are held to be preserved here,
+the other portion of that of St. Peter being at the Lateran, and of St.
+Paul at S. Paolo fuori Mura.
+
+To the Roman Catholic mind this is naturally one of the most sacred
+spots in the world, since it holds literally the words of St. Ambrose,
+that: "Where Peter is, there is the Church,--and where the Church is,
+there is no death, but life eternal."[340]
+
+     "From this place Peter, from this place Paul, shall be caught up in
+     the resurrection. Oh consider with trembling that which Rome will
+     behold, when Paul suddenly rises with Peter from this sepulchre,
+     and is carried up into the air to meet the Lord."--_St. John
+     Chrysostom, Homily on the Ep. to the Romans._
+
+     "Among the cemeteries ascribed by tradition to apostolic times, the
+     crypts of the Vatican would have the first claim on our attention,
+     had they not been almost destroyed by the foundations of the vast
+     basilica which guards the tomb of St. Peter.... The _Liber
+     Pontificalis_ says that Anacletus, the successor of Clement in the
+     Apostolic See, '_built_ and adorned the sepulchral monument
+     (_construxit memoriam_) of blessed Peter, since he had been
+     ordained priest by St. Peter, and other burial-places where the
+     bishops might be laid.' It is added that he himself was buried
+     there; and the same is recorded of Linus and Cletus, and of
+     Evaristus, Sixtus I., Telesphorus, Hyginus, Pius I., Eleutherius,
+     and Victor, the last of whom was buried A.D. 203; and after St.
+     Victor, no other pontiff is recorded to have been buried at the
+     Vatican until Leo the Great was laid in St. Peter's, A.D. 461. The
+     idea conveyed by the words _construxit memoriam_ is that of a
+     monument above-ground according to the usual Roman custom; and we
+     have seen that such a monument, even though it covered the tomb of
+     Christian bishops, would not be likely to be disturbed at any time
+     during the first or second century. For the reason we have already
+     stated, it is impossible to confront these ancient notices with any
+     existing monuments. It is worth mentioning, however, that De Rossi
+     believes that the sepulchre of St. Linus was discovered in this
+     very place early in the seventeenth century, bearing simply the
+     name of Linus."--_Northcote and Brownlow, Roma Setterranea._
+
+To ascend the _Dome of St. Peter's_ requires a special order. The
+entrance is from the first door in the left aisle, near the tomb of
+Maria-Clementina Sobieski. The ascent is by an easy staircase _à
+cordoni_, the walls of which bear memorial tablets of all the royal
+personages who have ascended it. The aspect of the roof is exceedingly
+curious from the number of small domes and houses of workmen with which
+it is studded,--quite a little village in themselves. A chamber in one
+of the pillars which support the dome contains a model of the ancient
+throne of St. Peter, and a model of the church, by Michael Angelo and
+his predecessor, Antonio di Sangallo. The dome is 300 feet above the
+roof, and 613-1/2 feet in circumference. An iron staircase leads thence
+to the ball, which is capable of containing sixteen persons.
+
+     "Cette hauteur fait frémir," dit Beyle, "quand on songe aux
+     tremblements de terre qui agitent fréquemment l'Italie, et qu'un
+     instant peut vous priver du plus beau monument qui existe.
+     Certainement jamais il ne serait relevé: nous sommes trop
+     _raisonables_."
+
+     "De Brosse raconte que deux moines espagnoles, qui se trouvaient
+     dons la boule de St. Pierre lors de la secousse de 1730, eurent une
+     telle peur, que l'un d'eux mourut sur la place."--_A. Du Pays._
+
+_The Sacristy of St. Peter's_, which is entered by a grey marble door on
+the left, before turning into the south transept, was built by Pius VI.,
+in 1755, from designs of _Carlo Marchione_. It consists of three halls,
+with a corridor adorned with columns and inscriptions from the old
+church, and with statues of SS. Peter and Paul, which stood in front of
+it. The central hall, _Sagrestia Commune_, is adorned with eight fluted
+pillars of grey marble (bigio) from Hadrian's Villa. On the left is the
+_Sagrestia dei Canonici_, with the Cappella dei Canonici, which has two
+pictures, the Madonna and Saints (Anna, Peter, and Paul), by _Francesco
+Penni_, and the Madonna and Child, _Giulio Romano_. Hence opens the
+_Stanza Capitolare_, containing an interesting remnant of the many works
+of Giotto in the old basilica under Boniface VIII. (for which he
+received 3020 gold florins), in three panel pictures belonging to the
+ciborium for the high altar ordered by Cardinal Stefaneschi, and
+representing,--Christ with that Cardinal,--the Crucifixion of St.
+Peter,--the Execution of St. Peter,--and on the back of the same panel,
+another picture, in which Cardinal Stefaneschi is offering his ciborium
+to St. Peter.
+
+     "The fragments which are preserved of the painting which Giotto
+     executed for the Church of St. Peter cannot fail to make us regret
+     its loss. The fragments are treated with a grandeur of style which
+     has led Rumohr to suspect that the susceptible imagination of
+     Giotto was unable to resist the impression which the ancient
+     mosaics of the Christian basilicas must have produced upon
+     him."--_Rio. Poetry of Christian Art._
+
+Here also are several fragments of the frescoes (of angels and
+apostles), by _Melozzo da Forlì_, which existed in the former dome of
+the SS. Apostoli, and of which the finest portion is now at the Quirinal
+Palace. On the right is the _Sagrestia dei Benefiziati_, which contains
+a picture of the Saviour giving the keys to St. Peter, by _Muziano_, and
+an image called La Madonna della Febbre, which stood in the old
+Sacristy. Opening hence is the _Treasury of St. Peter's_, containing
+some ancient jewels, crucifixes, and candelabra, by Benvenuto Cellini
+and Michael Angelo, and, among other relics, the famous sacerdotal robe
+called the _Dalmatica di Papa San Leone_, "said to have been embroidered
+at Constantinople for the coronation of Charlemagne as Emperor of the
+West, but fixed by German criticism as a production of the twelfth, or
+the early part of the thirteenth century. The emperors, at least, have
+worn it ever since, while serving as deacons at the pope's altar during
+their coronation-mass."
+
+     "It is a large robe of stiff brocade, falling in broad and unbroken
+     folds in front and behind,--broad and deep enough for the
+     Goliath-like stature and the Herculean chest of Charlemagne
+     himself. On the breast the Saviour is represented in glory, on the
+     back the Transfiguration, and on the two shoulders Christ
+     administering the Eucharist to the Apostles. In each of these last
+     compositions, our Saviour, a stiff but majestic figure, stands
+     behind the altar, on which are deposited a chalice and a paten or
+     basket containing crossed wafers. He gives, in the one case, the
+     cup to St. Paul, in the other the bread to St. Peter,--they do not
+     kneel, but bend reverently to receive it; five other disciples
+     await their turn in each instance,--all are standing.
+
+     "I do not apprehend your being disappointed with the Dalmatica di
+     San Leone, or your dissenting from my conclusion, that a master, a
+     Michael-Angelo I would almost say, then flourished at Byzantium.
+
+     "It was in this Dalmatica--then _semée_ all over with pearls and
+     glittering in freshness--that Cola di Rienzi robed himself over his
+     armour in the sacristy of St. Peter's and thence ascended to the
+     Palace of the Popes, after the manner of the Cæsars, with sounding
+     trumpets and his horsemen following him--his truncheon in his hand
+     and his crown on his head--'terribile e fantastico,' as his
+     biographer describes him--to wait upon the Legate."--_Lord
+     Lindsay's Christian Art_, i. 137.
+
+Above the Sacristy are the _Archives of St. Peter's_, containing, among
+many other ancient MSS., a life of St. George, with miniatures, by
+_Giotto_. The entrance to the Archivio, at the end of the corridor, is
+adorned with fragments of the chains of the ports of Smyrna and Tunis.
+Here, also, is a statue of Pius VI., by _Agostino Penna_.
+
+It is quite worth while to leave St. Peter's by the Porta Sta. Marta
+beneath the tomb of Alexander VII., in order to examine the exterior of
+the church from behind, where it completely dwarfs all the surrounding
+buildings. Among these are the _Church of S. Stefano_, with a fine door
+composed of antique fragments, and the dismal _Church of Sta. Marta_,
+which contains several of the Roman weights known as "Pietra di
+Paragone," said to have been used in the martyrdoms. Beyond the Sacristy
+is the pretty little _Cimeterio dei Tedeschi_, the oldest of Christian
+burial-grounds, said to have been set apart by Constantine, and filled
+with earth from Calvary. It was granted to the Germans in 1779, by Pius
+VI. Close by is the _Church of Sta. Maria della Pietà in Campo Santo_.
+
+Not far from hence (in a street behind the nearest colonnade) is the
+_Palazzo del Santo Uffizio--or of the Inquisition_. This body, for some
+time past, suppressed everywhere except in the States of the Pope, was
+established here in 1536 by Paul III., acting on the advice of Cardinal
+Caraffa, afterwards Paul IV., for inquiry into cases of heresy, and the
+punishment of ecclesiastical offences. It was by the authority of the
+"Holy Office" that the "Index" of prohibited books was first drawn up.
+Paul IV., on his deathbed, summoned the cardinals to his side, and
+recommended to them this "Santissimo Tribunale," as he called it, and
+succeeding popes have protected and encouraged it. The character of the
+Inquisition has been much changed from that which it bore three hundred
+years ago; but even in late years, many cases of extreme severity have
+been reported,--especially one of a French bishop cruelly imprisoned for
+sixteen years in one of its dungeons (merely because he had received his
+consecration from a French constitutional prelate), and who was only
+released when its doors were opened in the revolution of 1848.
+
+     "Within these walls has been confined for many years a very
+     extraordinary person--the archbishop of Memphis.... Pope Leo XII.
+     received a letter from the Pacha of Egypt informing his Holiness,
+     that he and a large portion of his subjects desired to be received
+     into the bosom of the Church of Rome; and announcing that he and
+     they were willing to conform, provided the pope would send out an
+     archbishop, with a suitable train of ecclesiastics, and requesting
+     that his Holiness would do him the favour of appointing a certain
+     young student whom he named, the first archbishop of Memphis, and
+     despatch him to Egypt. No doubt was entertained as to the truth of
+     this communication, but an objection presented itself in the youth
+     of the ecclesiastical student whom the Pacha wished to have as his
+     archbishop. The pope consulted his cardinals, who advised him not
+     to make the dangerous precedent of raising a novice to so high a
+     rank in the Church, but his Holiness, tempted by the desire of
+     converting a kingdom to Christianity, resolved to conform to the
+     wishes of the Pacha, and did consecrate the youth archbishop of
+     Memphis. The archbishop was sent out attended by a train of priests
+     to Egypt. When the ship arrived, the authorities in Egypt declared
+     the affair was an imposition. His Grace confessed the fraud, was
+     arrested, and reconducted to Rome. He was the author of the letter
+     which imposed on the pope--his original intention having been to
+     confess to the pope as a priest, after his consecration, the
+     imposition he had practised; and as the pope could not betray a
+     secret imparted to him at the confessional, the offender might have
+     obtained absolution, and escaped punishment. Whether this would
+     have been practicable I know not; but it was not accomplished, and
+     as the youth had the rank of archbishop indelibly imprinted on him,
+     nothing remained but to confine his Grace for the remainder of his
+     life; and accordingly he was confined to this prison near the
+     Vatican, whence he may find it difficult to escape."--_Whiteside's
+     Italy_, 1860.
+
+The tribunal of the Inquisition was formally abolished by the Roman
+Assembly in February, 1849, but was re-established by Pius IX. in the
+following June. Its meetings, however, now take place in the Vatican,
+and the old palace of the Holy Office was long used as a barrack for
+French soldiers.
+
+In the interior of the building is a lofty hall, with gloomy frescoes of
+Dominican saints,--and many terrible dungeons and cells in which the
+victim is unable to stand upright, having their vaulted ceilings lined
+with reeds, to deaden sound,--but all this is seldom seen. When the
+people rushed into the Inquisition at the revolution, a number of human
+bones were found in these vaults, which so excited the popular fury,
+that an attack on the Dominican convent at the Minerva was anticipated.
+Ardent defenders of the papacy maintain that these bones had been
+previously transported to the Inquisition from a cemetery, to get up a
+sensation.[341]
+
+Built up into the back of this palace is the tribune of the _Church of
+S. Salvatore in Torrione or in Macello_, whose foundation is ascribed to
+Charlemagne (797). Senerano (Sette Chiese) supposes that the French had
+here their schola or special centre for worship and assemblage. The
+windows of this building are among the few examples of gothic in Rome,
+and there are good terra-cotta mouldings. It may best be seen from the
+_Porta Cavalleggieri_, which was designed by Sangallo, and derives its
+name from the cavalry barracks close by.
+
+A short distance from the lower end of the Colonnade is the _Church of
+S. Michaele in Sassia_, whose handsome tower is a relic of the church
+founded by Leo IV., who built the walls of the Borgo, especially for
+funeral masses for the souls of those who fell in its defence against
+the Saracens. Raphael Mengs is buried in the modern church.
+
+The name of this church commemorates the Saxon settlement "called Burgus
+Saxonum, Vicus Saxonum, Schola Saxonum, and simply Saxia or
+Sassia,"[342] founded _c._ 727 by Ina, king of Wessex, and enlarged in
+794 by Offa, king of Mercia, when he made a pilgrimage to Rome in
+penance for the murder of Ethelbert, king of East-Anglia. Ina founded
+here a church, "Sta. Maria quæ vocatur Schola Saxorum," which is
+mentioned as late as 854. Dyer (Hist. of the City of Rome) says that
+"when Leo IV. enclosed this part of the city, it obtained the name of
+Borgo, from the Burgus Saxonum, and one of the gates was called Saxonum
+Posterula. The 'Schola Francorum' was also in the Borgo."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+THE VATICAN.
+
+     History of the Vatican Quarter and of the Palace--Scala
+     Regia--Pauline Chapel--Sistine Chapel--Sala Ducale--Court of St.
+     Damasus--Galleria Lapidaria--Braccio Nuovo--Museo Chiaramonti--The
+     Belvedere--Gallery of Statues--Hall of Busts--Sala delle Muse--Sala
+     Rotonda--Sala a Croce Greca--Galleria dei Candelabri--Galleria
+     degli Arazzi--Library--Appartamenti Borgia--Etruscan
+     Museum--Egyptian Museum--Gardens--Villa Pia--Loggie--Stanze--Chapel
+     of S. Lorenzo--Gallery of Pictures.
+
+
+The hollow of the Janiculum between S. Onofrio and the Monte Mario is
+believed to have been a site of Etruscan divination.
+
+    "Fauni vatesque canebant."
+
+    _Ennius._
+
+Hence the name, which is now only used in regard to the papal palace and
+the basilica of St. Peter, but which was once applied to the whole
+district between the foot of the hill and the Tiber near S. Angelo.
+
+        " ... ut paterni
+    Fluminis ripæ, simul et jocosa
+    Redderet laudes tibi Vaticani
+        Montis imago."
+
+    _Horace_, i. _Od._ 20.
+
+Tacitus speaks of the unwholesome air of this quarter. In this district
+was the Circus of Caligula, adjoining the gardens of his mother
+Agrippina, decorated by the obelisk which now stands in the front of St.
+Peter's.[343] Here Seneca describes that while Caligula was walking by
+torchlight, he amused himself by the slaughter of a number of
+distinguished persons--senators and Roman ladies. Afterwards it became
+the Circus of Nero, who from his adjoining gardens used to watch the
+martyrdom of the Christians[344]--mentioned by Suetonius as "a race
+given up to a new and evil superstition"--and who used their living
+bodies, covered with pitch and set on fire, as torches for his nocturnal
+promenades.
+
+The first residence of the popes at the Vatican was erected by St.
+Symmachus (A.D. 498--514) near the forecourt of the old St. Peter's, and
+here Charlemagne is believed to have resided on the occasion of his
+several visits to Rome during the reigns of Adrian I. (772--795) and Leo
+III. (795--816). This ancient palace having fallen into decay during the
+twelfth century, it was rebuilt in the thirteenth by Innocent III. It
+was greatly enlarged by Nicholas III. (1277--1281), but the Lateran
+continued to be the papal residence, and the Vatican palace was only
+used on state occasions, and for the reception of any foreign sovereigns
+visiting Rome. After the return of the popes from Avignon, the Lateran
+palace had fallen into decay, and for the sake of the greater security
+afforded by the vicinity of S. Angelo, it was determined to make the
+pontifical residence at the Vatican, and the first conclave was held
+there in 1378. In order to increase its security, John XXIII.
+constructed the covered passage to S. Angelo in 1410. Nicholas V.
+(1447--1455) had the idea of making it the most magnificent palace in
+the world, and of uniting in it all the government offices and dwellings
+of the cardinals, but died before he could do more than begin the work.
+The building which he commenced was finished by Alexander VI., and still
+exists under the name of Tor di Borgia. In 1473 Sixtus IV. built the
+Sistine Chapel, and in 1490 "the Belvedere" was erected as a separate
+garden-house by Innocent VIII. from designs of Antonio da Pollajuolo.
+Julius II., with the aid of Bramante, united this villa to the palace by
+means of one vast courtyard, and erected the Loggie around the Court of
+St. Damasus; he also laid the foundation of the Vatican Museum in the
+gardens of the Belvedere. The Loggie were completed by Leo X.; the Sala
+Regia and the Pauline Chapel were built by Paul III. Sixtus V. divided
+the great court of Bramante into two by the erection of the library, and
+began the present residence of the popes, which was finished by Clement
+VIII. (1592--1605). Urban VIII. built the Scala Regia; Clement XIV. and
+Pius VII., the Museo Pio-Clementino; Pius VII., the Braccio Nuovo; Leo
+XII., the picture-gallery; Gregory XVI., the Etruscan Museum; and Pius
+IX., the handsome staircase leading to the court of Bramante.
+
+The length of the Vatican palace is 1151 English feet; its breadth, 767.
+It has eight grand staircases, twenty courts, and is said to contain
+11,000 chambers of different sizes.
+
+     (The collections in the Vatican may be visited daily with an order
+     and at fixed hours, except on Sundays and high festivals.
+     Permission to make drawings must be obtained from the maggiordomo.)
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The principal entrance of the Vatican is at the end of the right
+colonnade of St. Peter's. Hence a door on the right opens upon the
+staircase leading to the Cortile di S. Damaso, and is the nearest way to
+the collections of statues and pictures.
+
+Following the great corridor, and passing on the left the entrance to
+the portico of St. Peter's, we reach the _Scala Regia_, a magnificent
+work of Bernini, formerly guarded by the picturesque Swiss soldiers.
+Hence we enter the _Sala Regia_, built in the reign of Paul III. by
+Antonio di Sangallo, and used as a hall of audience for ambassadors. It
+is decorated with frescoes illustrative of the history of the popes.
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     Alliance of the Venetians with Paul V. against the Turks, and
+     Battle of Lepanto, 1571: _Vasari_.
+
+     RIGHT WALL:
+
+     Absolution of the Emperor Henry IV., by Gregory VII.: _Federigo_
+     and _Taddeo Zucchero_.
+
+     LEFT WALL:
+
+     Massacre of St. Bartholomew: _Vasari_.
+
+     OPPOSITE WALL, towards the Sala Regia:
+
+     Return of Gregory XI. from Avignon.
+
+     Benediction of Frederick Barbarossa by Alexander III., in the
+     Piazza of S. Marco: _Giuseppe Porta_.
+
+On the right is the entrance of the _Pauline Chapel_ (Cappella Paolina),
+also built (1540) by Antonio di Sangallo for Paul III. Its decorations
+are chiefly the work of _Sabbatini_ and _F. Zucchero_, but it contains
+two frescoes by _Michael Angelo_.
+
+     "Two excellent frescoes, executed by Michael Angelo on the side
+     walls of the Pauline Chapel, are little cared for, and are so much
+     blackened by the smoke of lamps that they are seldom mentioned. The
+     Crucifixion of St. Peter, under the large window, is in a most
+     unfavourable light, but is distinguished for its grand, severe
+     composition. That on the opposite wall--the Conversion of St.
+     Paul--is still tolerably distinct. The long train of his soldiers
+     is seen ascending in the background. Christ, surrounded by a host
+     of angels, bursts upon his sight from the storm-flash. Paul lies
+     stretched on the ground--a noble and finely-developed form. His
+     followers fly on all sides, or are struck motionless by the
+     thunder. The arrangement of the groups is excellent, and some of
+     the single figures are very dignified; the composition has,
+     moreover, a principle of order and repose, which, in comparison
+     with the Last Judgment, places this picture in a very favourable
+     light. If there are any traces of old age to be found in these
+     works, they are at most discoverable in the execution of
+     details."--_Kugler_, p. 308.
+
+On the left of the approach from the Scala Regia is the _Sistine Chapel_
+(Cappella Sistina), built by Bacio Pintelli in 1473 for Sixtus IV. The
+lower part of the walls of this wonderful chapel was formerly hung on
+festivals with the tapestries executed from the cartoons of Raphael; the
+upper portion is decorated in fresco by the great Florentine masters of
+the fifteenth century.
+
+     "It was intended to represent scenes from the life of Moses on one
+     side of the chapel, and from the life of Christ on the other, so
+     that the old law might be confronted by the new,--the type by the
+     typified."--_Lanzi._
+
+The following is the order of the frescoes, type and anti-*type
+together:
+
+     Over the altar--now destroyed to make way for the Last Judgment:
+
+    1. Moses in the Bulrushes:         | 1. Christ in the Manger:
+    _Perugino_.                        | _Perugino_.
+
+     (Between these was the Assumption of the Virgin, in which Pope
+     Sixtus IV. was introduced, kneeling: _Perugino_.)
+
+    On the left wall, still existing:  | On the right wall, still existing:
+                                       |
+    2. Moses and Zipporah on the way   | 2. The Baptism of Christ:
+    to Egypt, and the circumcision     | _Perugino_.
+    of their son: _Luca Signorelli_.   |
+                                       |
+    3. Moses killing the Egyptian, and | 3. The Temptation of Christ:
+    driving away the shepherds from    | _Sandro Botticelli_.
+    the well: _Sandro Botticelli_.     |
+                                       |
+    4. Moses and the Israelites,       | 4. The calling of the Apostles
+    after the passage of the Red Sea:  | on the Lake of Gennesareth:
+    _Cosimo Rosselli_.                 | _Domenico Ghirlandajo_.
+                                       |
+    5. Moses giving the Law            | 5. Christ's Sermon on the
+    from the Mount: _Cosimo Rosselli_. | Mount: _Cosimo Rosselli_.
+                                       |
+    6. The punishment of Korah,        | 6. The institution of the
+    Dathan, and Abiram, who aspired    | Christian Priesthood. Christ
+    uncalled to the priesthood:        | giving the keys to Peter:
+    _Sandro Botticelli_.               | _Perugino_.
+                                       |
+    7. The last interview of Moses     | 7. The Last Supper: _Cosimo_
+    and Joshua: _Luca Signorelli_.     | _Rosselli_.
+
+     On the entrance wall:
+
+    8. Michael bears away the          | 8. The Resurrection: _Domenico
+    body of Moses (Jude 9):            | Ghirlandajo_, restored by
+    _Cecchino Salviati_.               | _Arrigo Fiamingo_.
+
+On the pillars between the windows are the figures of twenty-eight
+popes, by _Sandro Botticelli_.
+
+     "Vasari says that the two works of Luca Signorelli surpass in
+     beauty all those which surround them,--an assertion which is at
+     least questionable as far as regards the frescoes of Perugino; but
+     with respect to all the rest, the superiority of Signorelli is
+     evident, even to the most inexperienced eye. The subject of the
+     first picture is the journey of Moses and Zipporah into Egypt: the
+     landscape is charming, although evidently ideal; there is great
+     depth in the aërial perspective; and in the various groups
+     scattered over the different parts of the picture there are female
+     forms of such beauty, that they may have afforded models to
+     Raphael. The same graceful treatment is also perceptible in the
+     representation of the death of Moses, the mournful details of
+     which have given scope to the poetical imagination of the artist.
+     The varied group to whom Moses has just read the Law for the last
+     time, the sorrow of Joshua, who is kneeling before the man of God,
+     the charming landscape, with the river Jordan threading its way
+     between the mountains, which are made singularly beautiful, as if
+     to explain the regrets of Moses when the angel announces to him
+     that he will not enter into the promised land--all form a series of
+     melancholy scenes perfectly in harmony with one another, the only
+     defect being that the whole is crowded into too small a
+     space."--_Rio. Poetry of Christian Art._
+
+The avenue of pictures is a preparation for the surpassing grandeur of
+the ceiling:
+
+     "The _ceiling_ of the Sistine Chapel contains the most perfect
+     works done by _Michael Angelo_ in his long and active life. Here
+     his great spirit appears in its noblest dignity, in its highest
+     purity; here the attention is not disturbed by that arbitrary
+     display to which his great power not unfrequently seduced him in
+     other works. The ceiling forms a flattened arch in its section; the
+     central portion, which is a plain surface, contains a series of
+     large and small pictures, representing the most important events
+     recorded in the book of Genesis--the Creation and Fall of Man, with
+     its immediate consequences. In the large triangular compartments at
+     the springing of the vault, are sitting figures of the prophets and
+     sibyls, as the foretellers of the coming of the Saviour. In the
+     soffits of the recesses between these compartments, and in the
+     arches underneath, immediately above the windows, are the ancestors
+     of the Virgin, the series leading the mind directly to the Saviour.
+     The external connection of these numerous representations is formed
+     by an architectural framework of peculiar composition, which
+     encloses the single subjects, tends to make the principal masses
+     conspicuous, and gives to the whole an appearance of that solidity
+     and support so necessary, but so seldom attended to, in soffit
+     decorations, which may be considered as if suspended. A great
+     number of figures are also connected with the framework; those in
+     unimportant situations are executed in the colour of stone or
+     bronze; in the more important, in natural colours. These serve to
+     support the architectural forms, to fill up and to connect the
+     whole. They may be best described as the living and embodied
+     _genii_ of architecture. It required the unlimited power of an
+     architect, sculptor, and painter, to conceive a structural whole of
+     so much grandeur, to design the decorative figures with the
+     significant repose required by the sculpturesque character, and
+     yet to preserve their subordination to the principal subjects, and
+     to keep the latter in the proportions and relations best adapted to
+     the space to be filled."--_Kugler_, p. 301.
+
+The pictures from the Old Testament, beginning from the altar, are:
+
+    1. The Separation of Light and Darkness.
+    2. The Creation of the Sun and Moon.
+    3. The Creation of Trees and Plants.
+    4. The Creation of Adam.
+    5. The Creation of Eve.
+    6. The Fall and the Expulsion from Paradise.
+    7. The Sacrifice of Noah.
+    8. The Deluge.
+    9. The Intoxication of Noah.
+
+     "The scenes from Genesis are the most sublime representations of
+     these subjects;--the Creating Spirit is unveiled before us. The
+     peculiar type which the painter has here given of the form of the
+     Almighty Father has been frequently imitated by his followers, and
+     even by Raphael, but has been surpassed by none. Michael Angelo has
+     represented him in majestic flight, sweeping through the air,
+     surrounded by _genii_, partly supporting, partly borne along with
+     him, covered by his floating drapery; they are the distinct
+     syllables, the separate virtues of his creating word. In the first
+     (large) compartment we see him with extended hands, assigning to
+     the sun and moon their respective paths. In the second, he awakens
+     the first man to life. Adam lies stretched on the verge of the
+     earth, in the act of raising himself; the Creator touches him with
+     the point of his finger, and appears thus to endow him with feeling
+     and life. This picture displays a wonderful depth of thought in the
+     composition, and the utmost elevation and majesty in the general
+     treatment and execution. The third subject is not less important,
+     representing the Fall of Man and his Expulsion from Paradise. The
+     tree of knowledge stands in the midst, the serpent (the upper part
+     of the body being that of a woman) is twined around the stem; she
+     bends down towards the guilty pair, who are in the act of plucking
+     the forbidden fruit. The figures are nobly graceful, particularly
+     that of Eve. Close to the serpent hovers the angel with the sword,
+     ready to drive the fallen beings out of Paradise. In this double
+     action, this union of two separate moments, there is something
+     peculiarly poetic and significant: it is guilt and punishment in
+     one picture. The sudden and lightning-like appearance of the
+     avenging angel behind the demon of darkness has a most impressive
+     effect."--_Kugler_, p. 304.
+
+     "It was the seed of Eve that was to bruise the serpent's head.
+     Hence it is that Michael Angelo made the Creation of Eve the
+     central subject on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. He had the
+     good taste to suggest, and yet to avoid, that literal rendering of
+     the biblical story which in the ruder representations borders on
+     the grotesque, and which Milton, with all his pomp of words, could
+     scarcely idealise."--_Mrs. Jameson, Hist. of Our Lord._
+
+The lower portion of the ceiling is divided into triangles occupied by
+the Prophets and Sibyls in solemn contemplation, accompanied by angels
+and genii. Beginning from the left of the entrance, their order is,--
+
+                     1. Jonah.
+    2. Jeremiah.         |  7. Sibylla Libyca.
+    3. Sibylla Persica.  |  8. Daniel.
+    4. Ezekiel.          |  9. Sibylla Cumæa.
+    5. Sibylla Erythræa. | 10. Isaiah.
+    6. Joel.             | 11. Sibylla Delphica.
+                   12. Zachariah.
+
+     "The prophets and sibyls in the triangular compartments of the
+     curved portion of the ceiling are the largest figures in the whole
+     work; these, too, are among the most wonderful forms that modern
+     art has called into life. They are all represented seated, employed
+     with books or rolled manuscripts; genii stand near, or behind them.
+     These mighty beings sit before us pensive, meditative, inquiring,
+     or looking upwards with inspired countenances. Their forms and
+     movements, indicated by the grand lines and masses of the drapery,
+     are majestic and dignified. We see in them beings, who, while they
+     feel and bear the sorrows of a corrupt and sinful world, have power
+     to look for consolation into the secrets of the future. Yet the
+     greatest variety prevails in the attitudes and expression--each
+     figure is full of individuality. Zacharias is an aged man, busied
+     in calm and circumspect investigation; Jeremiah is bowed down
+     absorbed in thought--the thought of deep and bitter grief; Ezekiel
+     turns with hasty movement to the genius next to him, who points
+     upwards, with joyful expectation, &c. The sibyls are equally
+     characteristic: the Persian--a lofty, majestic woman, very aged;
+     the Erythræan--full of power, like the warrior goddess of wisdom;
+     the Delphic--like Cassandra, youthfully soft and graceful, but
+     with strength to bear the awful seriousness of
+     revelation."--_Kugler_, p. 304.
+
+     "The belief of the Roman Catholic Church in the testimony of the
+     Sibyl is shown by the well-known hymn, said to have been composed
+     by Pope Innocent III. at the close of the thirteenth century,
+     beginning with the verse:--
+
+    'Dies iræ, dies illa,
+    Solvet sæclum in favilla,
+    Teste David cum Sibylla.'
+
+     It may be inferred that this hymn, admitted into the liturgy of the
+     Roman Church, gave sanction to the adoption of the Sibyls into
+     Christian art. They are seen from this time accompanying the
+     prophets and apostles in the cyclical decorations of the church....
+     But the highest honour that art has rendered to the Sibyls has been
+     by the hand of Michael Angelo, on the ceiling of the Sistine
+     Chapel. Here, in the conception of a mysterious order of women,
+     placed above and without all considerations of the graceful or the
+     individual, the great master was peculiarly in his element. They
+     exactly fitted his standard of art, not always sympathetic, nor
+     comprehensible to the average human mind, of which the grand in
+     form and the abstract in expression, were the first and last
+     conditions. In this respect, the Sibyls on the Sistine Chapel
+     ceiling are more Michael Angelesque than their companions the
+     Prophets. For these, while types of the highest monumental
+     treatment, are yet men, while the Sibyls belong to a distinct class
+     of beings, who convey the impression of the very obscurity in which
+     their history is wrapt--creatures who have lived far from the
+     abodes of men, who are alike devoid of the expression of feminine
+     sweetness, human sympathy, or sacramental beauty; who are neither
+     Christians nor Jewesses, Witches nor Graces, yet living, grand,
+     beautiful, and true, according to laws revealed to the great
+     Florentine genius only. Thus their figures may be said to be
+     unique, as the offspring of a peculiar sympathy between the
+     master's mind and his subject. To this sympathy may be ascribed the
+     prominence and size given them--both Prophets and Sibyls--as
+     compared to their usual relation to the subjects they environ. They
+     sit here in twelve throne-like niches, more like presiding deities,
+     each wrapt in self-contemplation, than as tributary witnesses to
+     the truth and omnipotence of Him they are intended to announce.
+     Thus they form a gigantic framework round the subjects of the
+     Creation, of which the birth of Eve, as the type of the Nativity,
+     is the intentional centre. For some reason, the twelve figures are
+     not Prophets and Sibyls alternately--there being only five Sibyls
+     to seven Prophets--so that the Prophets come together at one
+     angle. Books and scrolls are given indiscriminately to them.
+
+     "The Sibylla Persica, supposed to be the oldest of the sisterhood,
+     holds the book close to her eyes, as if from dimness of sight,
+     which fact, contradicted as it is by a frame of obviously Herculean
+     strength, gives a mysterious intentness to the action.
+
+     "The Sibylla Libyca, of equally powerful proportions, but less
+     closely draped, is grandly wringing herself to lift a massive
+     volume from a height above her head on to her knees.
+
+     "The Sibylla Cumana, also aged, and with her head covered, is
+     reading with her volume at a distance from her eyes.
+
+     "The Sibylla Delphica, with waving hair escaping from her turban,
+     is a beautiful young being--the most human of all--gazing into
+     vacancy or futurity. She holds a scroll.
+
+     "The Sibylla Erythræa, grand bare-headed creature, sits reading
+     intently with crossed legs, about to turn over her book.
+
+     "The Prophets are equally grand in structure, and though, as we
+     have said, not more than men, yet they are the only men that could
+     well bear the juxtaposition with their stupendous female
+     colleagues. Ezekiel, between Erythræa and Persica, has a scroll in
+     his hand that hangs by his side, just cast down, as he turns
+     eagerly to listen to some voice.
+
+     "Jeremiah, a magnificent figure, sits with elbow on knee, and head
+     on hand, wrapt in the meditation appropriate to one called to utter
+     lamentation and woe. He has neither book nor scroll.
+
+     "Jonah is also without either. His position is strained and
+     ungraceful--looking upwards, and apparently remonstrating with the
+     Almighty upon the destruction of the gourd, a few leaves of which
+     are seen above him. His hands are placed together with a strange
+     and trivial action, supposed to denote the counting on his fingers
+     the number of days he was in the fish's belly. A formless marine
+     monster is seen at his side.
+
+     "Daniel has a book on his lap, with one hand on it. He is young,
+     and a piece of lion's skin seems to allude to his history."--_Lady
+     Eastlake, Hist. of Our Lord_, i. 248.
+
+In the recesses between the prophets and sibyls are a series of lovely
+family groups representing the Genealogy of the Virgin, and expressive
+of calm expectation of the future. The four corners of the ceiling
+contain groups illustrative of the power of the Lord displayed in the
+especial deliverances of his chosen people.
+
+Near the altar are:
+
+    _Right._--The deliverance of the Israelites by the brazen serpent.
+    _Left._--The execution of Haman.
+
+Near the entrance are:
+
+    _Right._--Judith and Holofernes.
+    _Left._--David and Goliath.
+
+It was when Michael Angelo was already in his sixtieth year that Clement
+VII. formed the idea of effacing the three pictures of Perugino at the
+end of the chapel, and employing him to paint the vast fresco of _The
+Last Judgment_ in their place. It occupied the artist for seven years,
+and was finished in 1541 when Paul III. was on the throne. To induce him
+to pursue his work with application, Paul III. went himself to his house
+attended by ten cardinals; "an honour," says Lanzi, "unique in the
+annals of art." The pope wished that the picture should be painted in
+oil, to which he was persuaded by Sebastian del Piombo, but Michael
+Angelo refused to employ anything but fresco, saying that oil-painting
+was work for women and for idle and lazy persons.
+
+     "In the upper half of the picture we see the Judge of the world,
+     surrounded by the apostles and patriarchs; beyond these, on one
+     side, are the martyrs; on the other, the saints, and a numerous
+     host of the blessed. Above, under the two arches of the vault, two
+     groups of angels bear the instruments of the passion. Below the
+     Saviour another group of angels holding the book of life sound the
+     trumpets to awaken the dead. On the right is represented the
+     resurrection; and higher, the ascension of the blessed. On the
+     left, hell, and the fall of the condemned, who audaciously strive
+     to press to heaven.
+
+     "The day of wrath ('dies iræ') is before us--the day, of which the
+     old hymn says,--
+
+    'Quantus tremor est futurus,
+    Quando judex est venturus
+    Cuncta stricte discussurus.'
+
+     The Judge turns in wrath towards the condemned and raises his right
+     hand, with an expression of rejection and condemnation; beside him
+     the Virgin veils herself with her drapery, and turns, with a
+     countenance full of anguish, toward the blessed. The martyrs, on
+     the left, hold up the instruments and proofs of their martyrdom, in
+     accusation of those who had occasioned their temporal death: these
+     the avenging angels drive from the gates of heaven, and fulfil the
+     sentence pronounced against them. Trembling and anxious, the dead
+     rise slowly, as if still fettered by the weight of an earthly
+     nature; the pardoned ascend to the blessed; a mysterious horror
+     pervades even their hosts--no joy, nor peace, nor blessedness, are
+     to be found here.
+
+     "It must be admitted that the artist has laid a stress on this view
+     of his subject, and this has produced an unfavourable effect upon
+     the upper half of his picture. We look in vain for the glory of
+     heaven, for beings who bear the stamp of divine holiness, and
+     renunciation of human weakness; everywhere we meet with the
+     expression of human passion, of human efforts. We see no choir of
+     solemn, tranquil forms, no harmonious unity of clear, grand lines,
+     produced by ideal draperies; instead of these, we find a confused
+     crowd of the most varied movements, naked bodies in violent
+     attitudes, unaccompanied by any of the characteristics made sacred
+     by holy tradition. Christ, the principal figure of the whole, wants
+     every attribute but that of the Judge: no expression of divine
+     majesty reminds us that it is the Saviour who exercises this
+     office. The upper part of the composition is in many parts heavy,
+     notwithstanding the masterly boldness of the drawing; confused, in
+     spite of the separation of the principal and accessory groups;
+     capricious, notwithstanding a grand arrangement of the whole. But,
+     granting for a moment that these defects exist, still this upper
+     portion, as a whole, has a very impressive effect, and, at the
+     great distance from which it is seen, some of the defects alluded
+     to are less offensive to the eye. The lower half deserves the
+     highest praise. In these groups, from the languid resuscitation and
+     upraising of the pardoned, to the despair of the condemned, every
+     variety of expression, anxiety, anguish, rage, and despair, is
+     powerfully delineated. In the convulsive struggles of the condemned
+     with the evil demons, the most passionate energy displays itself,
+     and the extraordinary skill of the artist here finds its most
+     appropriate exercise. A peculiar tragic grandeur pervades alike the
+     beings who are given up to despair and their hellish tormentors.
+     The representation of all that is fearful, far from being
+     repulsive, is thus invested with that true moral dignity which is
+     so essential a condition in the higher aims of art."--_Kugler_, p.
+     308.
+
+     "The Last Judgment is now more valuable as a school of design than
+     as a fine painting, and it will be sought more for the study of the
+     artist, than the delight of the amateur. Beautiful it is not--but
+     it is sublime;--sublime in conception, and astonishing in
+     execution. Still, I believe, there are few who do not feel that it
+     is a labour rather than a pleasure to look at it. Its blackened
+     surface--its dark and dingy sameness of colouring--the obscurity
+     which hangs over it--the confusion and multitude of naked figures
+     which compose it--their unnatural position, suspended in the air,
+     and the sameness of form and attitude, confound and bewilder the
+     senses. These were, perhaps, defects inseparable from the subject,
+     although it was one admirably calculated to call forth the powers
+     of Michael Angelo. To merit in colouring it has confessedly no
+     pretensions, and I think it is also deficient in expression--that
+     in the conflicting passions, hopes, fears, remorse, despair, and
+     transport, that must agitate the breasts of so many thousands in
+     that awful moment, there was room for powerful expression which we
+     do not see here. But it is faded and defaced; the touches of
+     immortal genius are lost for ever; and from what it is, we can form
+     but a faint idea of what it was. Its defects daily become more
+     glaring--its beauties vanish; and, could the spirit of its great
+     author behold the mighty work upon which he spent the unremitting
+     labour of seven years, with what grief and mortification would he
+     gaze upon it now.
+
+     "It may be fanciful, but it seems to me that in this, and in every
+     other of Michael Angelo's works, you may see that the ideas,
+     beauties, and peculiar excellences of statuary, were ever present
+     to his mind; that they are the conceptions of a sculptor embodied
+     in painting.
+
+     " ...St. Catharine, in a green gown, and somebody else in a blue
+     one, are supremely hideous. Paul IV., in an unfortunate fit of
+     prudery, was seized with the resolution of whitewashing over the
+     whole of the Last Judgment, in order to cover the scandal of a few
+     naked female figures. With difficulty was he prevented from utterly
+     destroying the grandest painting in the world, but he could not be
+     dissuaded from ordering these poor women to be clothed in this
+     unbecoming drapery. Daniele da Volterra, whom he employed in this
+     office (in the lifetime of Michael Angelo), received, in
+     consequence, the name of Il Braghettone (the
+     breeches-maker)."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+Michael Angelo avenged himself upon Messer Biagio da Cesena, master of
+the ceremonies, who first suggested the indelicacy of the naked figures
+to the pope, by introducing him in hell, as Midas, with ass's ears. When
+Cesena begged Paul IV. to cause this figure to be obliterated, the pope
+sarcastically replied, "I might have released you from purgatory, but
+over hell I have no power."
+
+     "Michel-Ange est extraordinaire, tandis qu'Orcagna[345] est
+     religieux. Leurs compositions se résument dans les deux Christs qui
+     jugent. L'un est un bourreau qui foudroie, l'autre est un monarque
+     qui condamne en montrant la plaie sacrée de son côté pour justifier
+     sa sentence."--_Cartier, Vie du Père Angelico._
+
+     "The Apostles in Michael Angelo's Last Judgment stand on each side
+     of the Saviour, who is not, here, Saviour and Redeemer, but
+     inexorable Judge. They are grandly and artificially grouped, all
+     without any drapery whatever, with forms and attitudes which recall
+     an assemblage of Titans holding a council of war, rather than the
+     glorified companions of Christ."--_Jameson's Sacred and Legendary
+     Art_, i. 179.
+
+The Sistine Chapel is associated in the minds of all Roman sojourners
+with the great ceremonies of the Church, but especially with the
+Miserere of Passion Week.
+
+     "On Wednesday afternoon began the Miserere in the Sistine
+     Chapel.... The old cardinals entered in their magnificent
+     violet-coloured velvet cloaks, with their white ermine capes; and
+     seated themselves side by side, in a great half-circle, within the
+     barrier, whilst the priests who had carried their trains seated
+     themselves at their feet. By the little side door of the altar the
+     holy father now entered in his purple mantle and silver tiara. He
+     ascended his throne. Bishops swung the vessels of incense around
+     him, whilst young priests, in scarlet vestments, knelt, with
+     lighted torches in their hands, before him and the high altar.
+
+     "The reading of the lessons began.[346] But it was impossible to
+     keep the eyes fixed on the lifeless letters of the missal--they
+     raised themselves, with the thoughts, to the vast universe which
+     Michael Angelo had breathed forth in colours upon the ceiling and
+     the walls. I contemplated his mighty sibyls and wondrously glorious
+     prophets, every one of them a subject for a painting. My eyes drank
+     in the magnificent processions, the beautiful groups of angels;
+     they were not to me painted pictures, all stood living before me.
+     The rich tree of knowledge, from which Eve gave the fruit to Adam:
+     the Almighty God, who floated over the waters, not borne up by
+     angels, as the older masters had represented him--no, the company
+     of angels rested upon him and his fluttering garments. It is true I
+     had seen these pictures before, but never as now had they seized
+     upon me. My excited state of mind, the crowd of people, perhaps
+     even the lyric of my thoughts, made me wonderfully alive to
+     poetical impressions; and many a poet's heart has felt as mine did!
+
+     "The bold foreshortenings, the determinate force with which every
+     figure steps forward, is amazing, and carries one quite away! It is
+     a spiritual Sermon on the Mount in colour and form. Like Raphael,
+     we stand in astonishment before the power of Michael Angelo. Every
+     prophet is a Moses like that which he formed in marble. What giant
+     forms are those which seize upon our eye and our thoughts as we
+     enter! But, when intoxicated with this view, let us turn our eyes
+     to the background of the chapel, whose whole wall is a high altar
+     of art and thought. The great chaotic picture, from the floor to
+     the roof, shows itself there like a jewel, of which all the rest is
+     only the setting. We see there the Last Judgment.
+
+     "Christ stands in judgment upon the clouds, and the apostles and
+     his mother stretch forth their hands beseeching for the poor human
+     race. The dead raise the gravestones under which they have lain;
+     blessed spirits float upwards, adoring, to God, whilst the abyss
+     seizes its victims. Here one of the ascending spirits seeks to save
+     his condemned brother, whom the abyss already embraces in its snaky
+     folds. The children of despair strike their clenched fists upon
+     their brows and sink into the depths! In bold foreshortening, float
+     and tumble whole legions between heaven and earth. The sympathy of
+     the angels; the expression of lovers who meet; the child that, at
+     the sound of the trumpet, clings to the mother's breast, is so
+     natural and beautiful, that one believes oneself to be among those
+     who are waiting for judgment. Michael Angelo has expressed in
+     colours what Dante saw and has sung to the generations of the
+     earth.
+
+     "The descending sun, at that moment, threw his last beams in
+     through the uppermost windows. Christ, and the blessed around him,
+     were strongly lighted up; whilst the lower part, where the dead
+     arose, and the demons thrust their boat, laden with damned, from
+     shore, were almost in darkness.
+
+     "Just as the sun went down the last Psalm was ended, and the last
+     light which now remained was extinguished, and the whole
+     picture-world vanished in the gloom from before me; but, in that
+     same moment, burst forth music and singing. That which colour had
+     bodily revealed arose now in sound: the day of judgment, with its
+     despair and its exultation, resounded above us.
+
+     "The father of the Church, stripped of his papal pomp, stood before
+     the altar, and prayed to the holy cross; and upon the wings of the
+     trumpet resounded the trembling quire, 'Populus meus, quid feci
+     tibi!' Soft angel notes rose above the deep song, tones which
+     ascended not from a human breast: it was not a man's nor a woman's:
+     it belonged to the world of spirits: it was like the weeping of
+     angels dissolved in melody."'--_Anderson's Improvisatore._
+
+            *       *       *       *       *
+
+     "Le _Miserere_, c'est-à-dire, _ayez pitié de nous_, est un psaume
+     composé de versets qui se chantent alternativement d'une manière
+     très-différente. Tour-à-tour une musique céleste se fait entendre,
+     et le verset suivant, dit en récitatif, et murmuré d'un ton sourd
+     et presque rauque, on dirait que c'est la réponse des caractères
+     durs aux coeurs sensibles, que c'est le réel de la vie qui vient
+     flétrir et repousser les voeux des âmes généreuses; et quand le
+     choeur si doux reprend, on renaît à l'espérance; mais lorsque le
+     verset récité recommence, une sensation de froid saisit de nouveau;
+     ce n'est pas la terreur qui la cause, mais le découragement de
+     l'enthousiasme. Enfin le dernier morceau, plus noble et plus
+     touchant encore que tous les autres, laisse au fond de l'âme une
+     impression douce et pure: Dieu nous accorde cette même impression
+     avant de mourir.
+
+     "On éteint les flambeaux; la nuit s'avance; les figures des
+     prophètes et des sibylles apparaissent comme des fantômes
+     enveloppés du crépuscule. Le silence est profond, la parole ferait
+     un mal insupportable dans cet état de l'âme, où tout est intime et
+     intérieur; et quand le dernier son s'éteint, chacun s'en va
+     lentement et sans bruit; chacun semble craindre de rentrer dans les
+     intérêts vulgaires de ce monde."--_Mad. de Staël._
+
+Opposite the Sistine Chapel is the entrance of the _Sala Ducale_, in
+which the popes formerly gave audience to foreign princes, and which is
+now used for the consistories for the admission of cardinals to the
+sacred college. Its decorations were chiefly executed by Bernini for
+Alexander VII. The landscapes are by _Brill_. This hall is used as a
+passage to the Loggie of Bramante.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The small portion of the Vatican inhabited by the pope is never seen
+except by those who are admitted to a special audience. The rooms of
+the aged pontiff are furnished with a simplicity which would be
+inconceivable in the abode of any other sovereign prince. It is a lonely
+life, as the dread of an accusation of nepotism has prevented any of the
+later popes from having any of their family with them, and etiquette
+always obliges them to dine, &c., alone. No one, whatever the difference
+of creed, can look upon this building inhabited by the venerable old men
+who have borne so important a part in the history of Christianity and of
+Europe, without the deepest interest.
+
+    "Je la vois cette Rome, où d'augustes vieillards,
+    Héritiers d'un apôtre et vainqueurs des Césars,
+    Souverains sans armée et conquérants sans guerre,
+    A leur triple couronne ont asservi la terre."
+
+    _Racine._
+
+Two hundred and fifty-five popes are reckoned from St Peter to Pio IX.
+inclusive. A famous prophecy of S. Malachi, first printed in 1595, is
+contained in a series of mottoes, one for each of the whole line of
+pontiffs until the end of time. Following this it will be seen that only
+eleven more popes are needed to exhaust the mottoes, and to close the
+destinies of Rome, and of the world. The later ones run thus:--
+
+        "Pius VII. Aquila Rapax.
+        Leo XII. Canis et coluber.
+        Pius VIII. Vir religiosus.
+        Gregory XVI. de Balneis Etruriæ.
+        Pius IX. Crux de cruce.
+         . . .   Lumen in coelo.
+         . . .   Ignis ardens.
+         . . .   Religio depopulata.
+         . . .   Fides intrepida.
+         . . .   Pastor angelicus.
+         . . .   Pastor et nauta.
+         . . .   Flos florum.
+         . . .   De medietate lunæ.
+         . . .   De labore solis.
+         . . .   Gloria olivæ.
+
+    In persecutione extrema sacra Romanæ Ecclesiæ sedebit PETRUS
+    Romanus, qui pascet oves in multis tribulationibus: quibus transactis,
+    civitas septicollis diruetur, et JUDEX tremendus judicabit populum."
+
+The Cardinal Secretary of State has rooms above the pontifical
+apartments. His collection of antique gems is of European celebrity.
+
+     "Antonelli loge au Vatican, sur la tête du pape. Les Romains
+     demandent, en manière du calembour, lequel est le plus haut, du
+     pape ou d'Antonelli."--_About, Question Romaine._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The entrance to the Museum of Statues (for those who do not come from
+the Sala Regia) is by the central door on the left of the Cortile S.
+Damaso, whence you ascend a staircase and follow the loggia on the first
+floor, covered with stuccoes and arabesques by _Giovanni da Udine_, to
+the door of
+
+The _Galleria Lapidaria_, a corridor 2131 feet in length. Its sides are
+covered on the right with Pagan, on the left with Early Christian
+inscriptions. Ranged along the walls are a series of sarcophagi, cippi,
+and funeral altars, some of them very fine. The last door on the left of
+this gallery is the entrance to the Library.
+
+Separated from this by an iron gate, which is locked, except on Mondays,
+but opened by a custode (fee 50 c.), is the Museo Chiaramonti; but the
+visitors should first enter, on the left,
+
+The _Braccio-Nuovo_, built under Pius VII. in 1817, by Raphael Stern, a
+fine hall, 250 feet long, filled with gems of sculpture. Perhaps most
+worth attention are (the _chefs d'oeuvre_ being marked with an
+asterisk):
+
+     _Right._--
+
+     5. *Caryatide.
+
+     This statue was admirably restored by Thorwaldsen. Its Greek origin
+     is undoubted, and it is supposed to be the missing figure from the
+     Erechtheum at Athens.
+
+     "Quand une fille des premières familles n'avait pour vêtement,
+     comme celle-ci, qu'une chemise et par-dessus une demi-chemise;
+     quand elle avait l'habitude de porter des vases sur sa tête, et par
+     suite de se tenir droite; quand pour toute toilette elle
+     retroussait ses cheveux ou les laissait tomber en boucles; quand le
+     visage n'était pas plissé par les mille petites grâces et les mille
+     petites préoccupations bourgeoises, une femme pouvait avoir la
+     tranquille attitude de cette statue. Aujourd'hui il en reste un
+     débris dans les paysannes des environs qui portent leurs corbeilles
+     sur la tête, mais elles sont gâtées par le travail et les haillons.
+     Le sein paraît sous la chemise; la tunique colle et visiblement
+     n'est qu'un linge; on voit la forme de la jambe qui casse l'étoffe
+     au genou; les pieds apparaissent nus dans les sandales. Rien ne
+     peut rendre le sérieux naturel du visage. Certainement, si on
+     pouvait revoir la personne réelle avec ses bras blancs, ses cheveux
+     noirs, sous la lumière du soleil, les genoux plieraient, comme
+     devant une déesse, de respect et de plaisir."--_Taine, Voyage en
+     Italie._
+
+     8. Commodus.
+
+     "La statue de Commode est très curieuse par le costume. Il tient à
+     la main une lance, il a des espèces de bottes: tout cela est du
+     chasseur, enfin il porte la tunique à manches dont parle Dion
+     Cassius, et qui était son costume d'amphithéâtre."--_Ampère, Emp._
+     ii. 246.
+
+     9. Colossal head of a Dacian, from the Forum of Trajan.
+
+     11. Silenus and the infant Bacchus.
+
+     This is a copy from the Greek, of which there were several
+     replicas. One, formerly in the Villa Borghese, is now at Paris. The
+     original group is described by Pliny, who says that the name of the
+     sculptor was lost even in his time. The greater portion of the
+     child, the left arm and hand of Silenus, and the ivy-leaves, are
+     restorations.
+
+     "Je pense que ce chef-d'oeuvre est une imitation modifiée du
+     _Mercure nourricier de Bacchus_, par Céphisodote, fils de
+     Praxitèle."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 332.
+
+     14. *Augustus, found 1863, in the villa of Livia at Prima-Porta.
+
+     "This is, without exception, the finest portrait statue of this
+     class in the whole collection.... The cuirass is covered with small
+     figures, in basso-relievo, which, as works of art, are even finer
+     than the statue itself, and merit the most careful examination.
+     These small figures are, in their way, marvels of art, for the
+     wonderful boldness of execution and minuteness of detail shown in
+     them. They are almost like cameos, and yet, with all the delicacy
+     of finish displayed, there is no mere smoothness of surface. The
+     central group is supposed to represent the restoration to Augustus
+     by King Phraates of the eagles taken from Crassus and Antony.
+     Considerable traces of colour were found on this statue and are
+     still discernible. Close examination will also show that the face
+     and eyes were coloured."--_Shakspere Wood._
+
+     17. Æsculapius.
+
+     20. Nerva? Head modern.
+
+     23. *Pudicitia. From the Villa Mattei. Head modern.
+
+     "The portrait of a noble Roman lady, much disfigured by
+     restorations. This statue shows the neglect, by a sculptor of great
+     ability, of that thoroughness of execution which was such a
+     characteristic of Greek art. Compare the great beauty of the lower
+     portion of the drapery, seen from the front, with the poverty of
+     execution at the back."--_Shakspere Wood._
+
+     "Qu'on regarde une statue toute voilée, par exemple celle de la
+     Pudicité: il est evident que le vêtement antique n'altère pas la
+     forme du corps, que les plis collants ou mouvants reçoivent du
+     corps leurs formes et leurs changements, qu'on suit sans peine à
+     travers les plis l'équilibre de toute la charpente, la rondeur de
+     l'épaule ou de la hanche, le creux du dos."--_Taine._
+
+     26. Titus. Found 1828, near the Lateran (with his daughter Julia).
+
+     27, 40, 92. Colossal busts of Medusa, from the temple of Venus at
+     Rome.
+
+     32, 33. Fauns, sitting, from the villa of Quintilius at Tivoli.
+
+     38. Ganymede, found at Ostia; on the tree against which he leans is
+     engraved the name of Phædimus.
+
+     39. Vase of black basalt, found on the Quirinal. It stands on a
+     mosaic, from the Tor Marancia.
+
+     41. Faun playing on a flute, from the villa of Lucullus.
+
+     44. Wounded Amazon (both arms and legs are restorations).
+
+     "Les trois Amazones blessées de Rome ne peuvent être que des copies
+     de la célèbre Amazone de Crésilas.... Ce Crésilas fut l'auteur du
+     guerrier grec mourant qui selon toute apparence a inspiré le
+     prétendu Gladiateur mourant auquel s'applique merveilleusement bien
+     ce que dit Pline du premier."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 263.
+
+     47. Caryatide.
+
+     48. Bust of Trajan.
+
+     50. *Diana contemplating the sleeping Endymion.
+
+     53. Euripides.
+
+     "Le plus remarquable portrait d'Euripide est une belle statue au
+     Vatican. Cette statue donne une haute idée de la sublimité de l'art
+     tragique en Grèce.... Regardez ce poëte, combien toute sa personne
+     a de gravité et de grandeur, rien n'avertit qu'on a devant les
+     yeux celui qui aux yeux des juges sévères, affaiblissait l'art et
+     le corrompait; l'attitude est simple, le visage sérieux, comme il
+     convient à un poëte philosophe. Ce serait la plus belle statue de
+     poëte tragique si la statue de Sophocle n'existait pas."--_Ampère_,
+     iii. 572.
+
+     62. *Demosthenes, found near Frescati.
+
+     "Both hands were wanting, and the restorer has replaced them
+     holding a roll.... They were originally placed with the fingers
+     clasped together, and the proofs are these. An anecdote is related
+     of an Athenian soldier, who had hidden some stolen money in the
+     clasped hands of a statue of Demosthenes; and if you observe the
+     lines formed by the fore-arms, from the elbows to half-way down the
+     wrists, where the restoration commences, you will find that,
+     continued on, they would bring the wrists very much nearer to each
+     other than they now are in the restoration. It is possible that
+     this is the identical statue spoken of."--_Shakspere Wood._
+
+     67. *Apoxyomenos. An Athlete scraping his arm with a strigil; found
+     1849 in the Vicolo delle Palure in the Trastevere.
+
+     This is a replica of the celebrated bronze statue of Lysippus, and
+     is described by Pliny, who narrates that it was brought from Greece
+     by Agrippa to adorn the baths which he built for the people, and
+     that Tiberius so admired it, that he carried it off to his palace,
+     but was forced to restore it by the outcries of the populace, the
+     next time he appeared in public.
+
+     _Left._--
+
+     71. Amazon. (Arms and feet restorations by Thorwaldsen.)
+
+     77. Antonia, from Tusculum.
+
+     81. Bust of Hadrian.
+
+     83. Juno? (head, a restoration) from Hadrian's villa.
+
+     86. Fortune with a cornucopia, from Ostia.
+
+     92. Venus Anadyomena.
+
+     "La gracieuse Vénus Anadyomène, que chacun connaît, a le mérite de
+     nous rendre une peinture perdue d'Apelles; elle en a un autre
+     encore, c'est de nous conserver dans ce portrait--qui n'est point
+     en buste--quelques traits de la beauté de Campaspe, d'après
+     laquelle Apelles, dit-on, peignit sa Venus Anadyomène."--_Ampère_,
+     iii. 324.
+
+     96. Bust of Marc Antony, from the Tor Sapienza.
+
+     109. *Colossal group of the Nile, found, temp. Leo X., near Sta.
+     Maria sopra Minerva.
+
+     A Greek statue. The sixteen children clambering over it are
+     restorations, and allude to the sixteen cubits' depth with which
+     the river annually irrigates the country. On the plinth, the
+     accompaniments of the river,--the ibis, crocodile, hippopotamus,
+     &c., are represented.
+
+     111. Julia, daughter of Titus, found near the Lateran.
+
+     "Cette princesse, de la nouvelle et bourgeoise race des Flaviens,
+     n'offre rien du noble profil et de la fière beauté des Agrippines:
+     elle a un nez écrasé et l'air commun. La coiffure de Julie achève
+     de la rendre disgracieuse: c'est une manière de pouf assez
+     semblable à une éponge. Comparé aux coiffures du siècle d'Auguste,
+     le tour de cheveux ridicule de Julie montre la décadence du goût,
+     plus rapide dans la toilette que dans l'art."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii.
+     120.
+
+     112. Bust of Juno, called the Juno Pentini.
+
+     114. *Minerva Medica, found in the temple so called; formerly in
+     the Giustiniani collection.
+
+     A most beautiful Greek statue, much injured by restoration.
+
+     "In the Giustiniani palace is a statue of Minerva which fills me
+     with admiration. Winckelmann scarcely thinks anything of it, or at
+     any rate does not give it its proper position; but I cannot praise
+     it sufficiently. While we were gazing upon the statue, and standing
+     a long time beside it, the wife of the custode told us that it was
+     once a sacred image, and that the English, who are of that
+     religion, still held it in veneration, being in the habit of
+     kissing one of its hands, which was certainly quite white, while
+     the rest of the statue was of a brownish colour. She added, that a
+     lady of this religion had been there a short time before, had
+     thrown herself on her knees, and worshipped the statue. Such a
+     wonderful action she, as a Christian, could not behold without
+     laughter, and fled from the room, for fear of
+     exploding."--_Goethe._
+
+     117. Claudius.
+
+     120. A replica of the Faun of Praxiteles, inferior to that at the
+     Capitol.
+
+     "Le jeune Satyre qui tient une flûte est trop semblable à celui du
+     Capitole pour n'être pas de même une reproduction de l'un des deux
+     Satyres isolés de Praxitèle, son Satyre d'Athènes ou son Satyre de
+     Mégare; on pourrait croire aussi que le Satyre à la flûte a eu pour
+     original le Satyre de Protogène qui, bien que peint dans Rhodes
+     assiégée, exprimait le calme le plus profond et qu'on appelait
+     _celui qui se repose_ (_anapauomenos_); on pourrait le croire, car
+     la statue a toujours une jambe croisée sur l'autre, attitude qui,
+     dans le langage de la sculpture antique, désigne le repos. Il ne
+     serait pas impossible non plus que Protogène se fût inspiré de
+     Praxitèle; mais en ce cas il n'en avait pas reproduit complétement
+     le charme, car Apelles, tout en admirant une autre figure de
+     Protogène, lui reprochait de manquer de grâce. Or, le Satyre à la
+     flûte est très-gracieux; ce qui me porte à croire qu'il vient
+     directement de Praxitèle plutôt que de Praxitèle par
+     Protogène."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 308.
+
+     123. L. Verus. Naked statue.
+
+     126. Athlete; the discus a restoration.
+
+     129. Domitian, from the Giustiniani collection.
+
+     132. Mercury (the head a restoration by Canova), from the Villa
+     Negroni.
+
+     Here we re-enter the _Museo Chiaramonti_, lined with sculptures,
+     chiefly of inferior interest. They are arranged in thirty
+     compartments. We may notice:
+
+     I. 6, 13. Autumn and Winter, two sarcophagi from Ostia, the latter
+     bearing the name of Publius Elius Verus.
+
+     VIII. r. 176. A beautiful mutilated fragment, supposed to be one of
+     the daughters of Niobe.
+
+     r. 197. Head of Roma, from Laurentum.
+
+     XIV. r. 352. Venus Anadyomena.
+
+     XVI. r. 400. Tiberius, seated, found at Veii in 1811.
+
+     r. 401. Augustus, from Veii.
+
+     XVII. r. 417. *Bust of the young Augustus, found at Ostia, 1808.
+
+     XX. r. 494. Seated statue of Tiberius, from Piperno.
+
+     r. 495. Cupid bending his bow, a copy of a statue by Lysippus.
+
+     XXI. r. 550, 512. Two busts of Cato.
+
+     XXIV. r. 589. Mercury, found near the Monte di Pietà.
+
+     XXV. r. 606. Head of Neptune, from Ostia.
+
+     XXX. r. 732. Recumbent Hercules, from Hadrian's Villa.
+
+At the end of this gallery is the entrance to the Giardino della Pigna
+(described under the Vatican Gardens). Admittance may probably be
+obtained from hence for a fee of 50 c. At the top of the short
+staircase, on the left, is the entrance of the Egyptian Museum. Here we
+enter the _Museo Pio-Clementino_, founded under Clement XIV., but
+chiefly due to the liberality and taste of Pius VI., in whose reign,
+however, most of the best statues were carried off to Paris, though they
+were restored to Pius VII.
+
+In the centre of _1st Vestibule_ is the *Torso Belvidere, found in the
+baths of Caracalla, and sculptured, as is told by a Greek inscription on
+its base, by Apollonius, son of Nestor of Athens. It was to this statue
+that Michael-Angelo declared that he owed his power of representing the
+human form, and in his blind old age he used to be led up to it, that he
+might pass his hands over it, and still enjoy, through touch, the
+grandeur of its lines.
+
+    "And dost thou still, thou mass of breathing stone
+    (Thy giant limbs to night and chaos hurled),
+    Still sit as on the fragment of a world,
+    Surviving all, majestic and alone?
+    What tho' the Spirits of the North, that swept
+    Rome from the earth when in her pomp she slept,
+    Smote thee with fury, and thy headless trunk
+    Deep in the dust 'mid tower and temple sunk;
+    Soon to subdue mankind 'twas thine to rise,
+    Still, still unquelled thy glorious energies!
+    Aspiring minds, with thee conversing, caught
+    Bright revelations of the good they sought;
+    By thee that long-lost spell in secret given,
+    To draw down gods, and lift the soul to Heaven."
+
+    _Rogers._
+
+     "Quelle a été l'original du torse d'Hercule, ce chef-d'oeuvre que
+     palpait de ses mains intelligentes Michel-Ange aveugle et réduit à
+     ne plus voir que par elles? Heyne a pensé que ce pouvait être une
+     copie en grand de l'Hercule _Epitrapezios_ de Lysippe, mais par le
+     style cette statue me semble antérieure à Lysippe. Cependant on lit
+     sur le torse le nom d'Apollonios d'Athènes, fils de Nestor, et la
+     forme des lettres ne permet pas de placer cette inscription plus
+     haut que le dernier siècle de la République.
+
+     "Comment admettre que cette statue, aussi admirée par Winckelmann
+     que par Michel-Ange, ce débris auquel on revient après
+     l'éblouissement de l'Apollon du Belvidère, pour retrouver une
+     sculpture plus mâle et plus simple, un style plus fort et plus
+     grand; comment admettre qu'une telle statue soit l'oeuvre d'un
+     sculpteur inconnu dont Pline ne parle point, ni personne autre dans
+     l'antiquité, et qu'elle date d'un temps si éloigné de la grande
+     époque de Phidias, quand elle semble y tenir de si près?
+
+     " ... Pourquoi le torse du Vatican ne serait-il pas d'Alcamène, ou,
+     si l'on veut, d'après Alcamène, par Apollonius?"--_Ampère, Hist.
+     Rome_, iii. p. 360, 363.
+
+Close by, in a niche, is the celebrated peperino *Tomb of L. Cornelius
+Scipio Barbatus, consul B.C. 297. It supports a bust, supposed, upon
+slight foundation, to be that of the poet Ennius. Inscriptions from
+other tombs of the Scipios are inserted in the neighbouring wall.[347]
+
+     "L'épitaphe de Scipion le Barbu semble le résumé d'une oraison
+     funèbre; elle s'adresse aux spectateurs: 'Cornélius Scipion
+     Barbatus, né d'un père vaillant, homme courageux et prudent, dont
+     la beauté égalait la vertu. Il a été parmi vous consul, censeur,
+     édile; il a pris Taurasia, Cisauna, le Samnium. Ayant soumis toute
+     la Lucanie, il en a emmené des otages.'
+
+     "Y a-t-il rien de plus grand? Il a pris le Samnium et la Lucanie.
+     Voilà tout.
+
+     "Ce sarcophage est un des plus curieux monuments de Rome. Par la
+     matière, par la forme des lettres et le style de l'inscription, il
+     vous représente la rudesse des Romains au sixième siècle. Le goût
+     très-pur de l'architecture et des ornements vous montre l'avènement
+     de l'art grec tombant, pour ainsi dire, en pleine sauvagerie
+     romaine. Le tombeau de Scipion le Barbu est en pépérin, ce tuf
+     rugueux, grisâtre, semé de taches noires. Les caractères sont
+     irréguliers, les lignes sont loin d'être droites, le latin est
+     antique et barbare, mais la forme et les ornements du tombeau sont
+     grecs. Il y a là des volutes, des triglyphes, des denticules; on ne
+     saurait rien imaginer qui fasse mieux voir la culture grecque
+     venant surprendre et saisir la rudesse latine."--_Ampère, Hist.
+     Rom._ iii. 132.
+
+The _Round Vestibule_ contains a fine vase of pavonazzetto.
+
+The adjoining balcony contains a curious Wind Indicator, found (1779)
+near the Coliseum. Hence there is a lovely view over the city. In the
+garden beneath is a fountain with a curious bronze ship floating in its
+bason (see Vatican Gardens).
+
+At the end of the _3rd Vestibule_ stands the *Statue of Meleager, with a
+boar's head and a dog, supposed to have been begun in Greece by some
+famous sculptor, and finished in Rome (the dog, &c.) by an inferior
+workman.
+
+     "Meleager is represented in a position of repose, leaning on his
+     spear, the mark of the junction of which, with the plinth, is still
+     to be seen. The want of the spear gives the statue the appearance
+     of leaning too much to one side, but if you can imagine it
+     replaced, you will see that the pose is perfectly and truthfully
+     rendered. This statue was found at the commencement of the
+     sixteenth century, outside the Porta Portese, in a vineyard close
+     to the Tiber."--_Shakspere Wood._
+
+     "Ce Méléagre du Vatican respire une grâce tranquille, et, placé
+     entre le sublime _Torse_ et les merveilles du Belvédère, semble
+     être là pour attendre et pour accueillir de son air aimable et un
+     peu mélancolique, où l'on a cru voir le signe d'une destinée qui
+     devait être courte, l'enthousiasme du voyageur."--_Ampère, Hist.
+     Rom._ iii. 515.
+
+From the central vestibule we enter the _Cortile del Belvidere_, an
+octagonal court built by _Bramante_, having a fountain in the centre,
+and decorated with fine sarcophagi and vases, &c. From this opens,
+beginning from the right, the--
+
+_First Cabinet_, containing the Perseus, and the two Boxers--Kreugas and
+Damoxenus, by _Canova_.
+
+_The Second Cabinet_, containing *the Antinous (now called Mercury),
+perhaps the most beautiful statue in the world. It was found on the
+Esquiline near S. Martino al Monte. It has never been injured by
+restoration, but was broken across the ankles when found, and has been
+unskilfully put together.
+
+     "Je suis bien tenté de rapporter à un original de Polyclète, qui
+     aimait les formes carrées, le Mercure du Belvédère, qui n'est pas
+     très-svelte pour un Mercure. On a cru reconnaître que les
+     proportions de cette statue se rapprochaient beaucoup des
+     proportions préscrites par Polyclète. Poussin, comme Polyclète, ami
+     des formes carrées, déclarait le Mercure, qu'on appelait alors sans
+     motif un Antinoüs, le modèle le plus parfait des proportions du
+     corps humain; il pourrait à ce titre remplacer jusqu'à un certain
+     point la statue de Polyclète, appelée _la règle_, parcequ'elle
+     passait pour offrir ce modèle parfait, et _faisait règle_ à cet
+     égard. De plus, on sait qu'un Mercure de Polyclète avait été
+     apporté à Rome."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 267.
+
+_Third Cabinet_, of *the Laocoon. This wonderful group was discovered
+near the Sette Sale on the Esquiline in 1506, while Michael-Angelo was
+at Rome. The right arm of the father is a terra-cotta restoration, and
+is said by Winckelmann to be the work of Bernini; the arms of the sons
+are additions by Agostino Cornacchini of Pistoia. There is now no doubt
+that the Laocoon is the group described by Pliny.
+
+     "The fame of many sculptors is less diffused, because the number
+     employed upon great works prevented their celebrity; for there is
+     no one artist to receive the honour of the work, and where there
+     are more than one they cannot all obtain an equal fame. Of this the
+     Laocoon is an example, which stands in the palace of the emperor
+     Titus,--a work which may be considered superior to all others both
+     in painting and statuary. The whole group,--the father, the boys,
+     and the awful folds of the serpents,--were formed out of a single
+     block, in accordance with a vote of the senate, by Agesander,
+     Polydorus, and Athenodorus, Rhodian sculptors of the highest
+     merit."--_Pliny_, lib. xxxvi. c. 4.
+
+     "Les trois sculpteurs rhodiens qui travaillèrent ensemble au
+     Laocoon étaient probablement un père et ses deux fils, qui
+     exécutèrent l'un la statue du père, et les autres celles des deux
+     fils, touchante analogie entre les auteurs et l'ouvrage.
+
+     "Les auteurs du Laocoon étaient Rhodiens, ce peuple auquel, dit
+     Pindare, Minerve a donné de l'emporter sur tous les mortels par le
+     travail habile de leurs mains, et dont les rues étaient garnies de
+     figures vivantes qui semblaient marcher. Or, le grand éclat, la
+     grande puissance de Rhodes, appartiennent surtout à l'époque qui
+     suivit la mort d'Alexandre. Après qu'elle se fût délivrée du joug
+     macédonien, presque toujours alliée de Rome, Rhodes fut florissante
+     par le commerce, les armes et la liberté, jusqu'au jour on elle
+     eut embrassé le parti de César; Cassius prit d'assaut la capitale
+     de l'île et dépouilla ses temples de tous leurs ornements. Le coup
+     fut mortel à la république de Rhodes, qui depuis ne s'en releva
+     plus.
+
+     "C'est avant cette fatale époque, dans l'époque de la prospérité
+     rhodienne, entre Alexandre et César, que se place le grand
+     développement de l'art comme de la puissance des Rhodiens, et qu'on
+     est conduit naturellement à placer la création d'un chef-d'oeuvre
+     tel que le Laocoon.
+
+     "Pline dit que les trois statues dont se compose le groupe étaient
+     d'un seul morceau, et ce groupe est formé de plusieurs, on en a
+     compté jusqu'à six. Ceci semblerait faire croire que nous n'avons
+     qu'une copie, mais j'avoue ne pas attacher une grande importance à
+     cette indication de Pline, compilateur plus érudit qu'observateur
+     attentif. Michel-Ange, dit-on, remarqua le premier que le Laocoon
+     n'était pas d'un seul morceau; Pline a très-bien pu ne pas s'en
+     apercevoir plus que nous et répéter de confiance une assertion
+     inexacte."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 382, 385, 387.
+
+    ... "Turning to the Vatican, go see
+    Laocoon's torture dignifying pain--
+    A father's love and mortal's agony
+    With an immortal's patience blending, vain
+    The struggle; vain against the coiling strain
+    And gripe, and deepening of the dragon's grasp,
+    The old man's clench; the long envenom'd chain
+    Rivets the living links,--the enormous asp
+    Enforces pang on pang, and stifles gasp on gasp."
+
+    _Childe Harold._
+
+     "The circumstance of the two sons being so much smaller than the
+     father, has been criticised by some, but this seems to have been
+     necessary to the harmony of the composition. The same apparent
+     disproportion exists between Niobe and her children, in the
+     celebrated group at Florence, supposed to be by Scopas. The raised
+     arms of the three figures are all restorations, as are some
+     portions of the serpents. Originally, the raised hands of the old
+     man rested on his head, and the traces of the junction are clearly
+     discernible. For this we have also the evidence of an antique gem,
+     on which it is thus engraved. This work was found in the baths (?)
+     of Titus, in the reign of Julius II., by a certain Felix de Fredis,
+     who received half the revenue of the gabella of the Porta San
+     Giovanni as a reward, and whose epitaph, in the church of Ara
+     Coeli, records the fact."--_Shakspere Wood._
+
+     "Il y avait dans la vie, au seizième siècle, je ne sais qu'elle
+     excitation fébrile, quelle aspiration vers le beau, vers l'inconnu,
+     qui disposait les esprits à l'enthousiasme.... Félix de Frédis fut
+     gratifié d'une part dans les revenus de la porte de Saint Jean de
+     Latran, pour avoir trouvé le groupe du Laocoon, et, lorsque l'ordre
+     fut donné de transporter au Belvédère le Laocoon, l'Apollon, la
+     Vénus, Rome entière s'émut, on jetait des fleurs au marbre, on
+     battait des mains; depuis les thermes de Titus jusqu'au Vatican, le
+     Laocoon fut porté en triomphe; et Sadolet chantait sur le mode
+     virgilien que durent reconnaître les échos de l'Esquilin et du
+     palais d'Auguste."--_Gournerie, Rome Chrétienne._
+
+     "I felt the Laocoon very powerfully, though very quietly; an
+     immortal agony, with a strange calmness diffused through it, so
+     that it resembles the vast rage of the sea, calm on account of its
+     immensity; or the tumult of Niagara, which does not seem to be
+     tumult, because it keeps pouring on for ever and ever."
+
+     "It is a type of human beings, struggling with an inexplicable
+     trouble, and entangled in a complication which they cannot free
+     themselves from by their own efforts, and out of which Heaven alone
+     can help them."--_Hawthorne, Notes on Italy._
+
+_The Fourth Cabinet_ contains *the Apollo Belvedere, found in the
+sixteenth century at Porto d'Anzio (Antium), and purchased by Julius II.
+for the Belvedere Palace, which was at that time a garden pavilion
+separated from the rest of the Vatican, and used as a museum of
+sculpture. It is now decided that this statue, beautiful as it is, is
+not the original work of a Greek sculptor, but a copy, probably from the
+bronze of Calamides, which represented Apollo, as the defender of the
+city, and which was erected at Athens after the cessation of a great
+plague. Four famous statues of Apollo are mentioned by Pliny as existing
+at Rome in his time, but this is not one of them.
+
+    "Or view the Lord of the unerring bow,
+    The God of life, and poesy, and light--
+    The Sun in human limbs array'd, and brow
+    All radiant from his triumph in the fight;
+    The shaft hath just been shot--the arrow bright
+    With an immortal's vengeance; in his eye
+    And nostril beautiful disdain, and might,
+    And majesty flash their full lightnings by,
+    Developing in that one glance the Deity."
+
+    _Childe Harold._
+
+      "Bright kindling with a conqueror's stem delight,
+    His keen eye tracks the arrow's fateful flight:
+    Burns his indignant cheek with vengeful fire,
+    And his lip quivers with insulting ire:
+    Firm fix'd his tread, yet light, as when on high
+    He walks th' impalpable and pathless sky:
+    The rich luxuriance of his hair, confined
+    In graceful ringlets, wantons on the wind,
+    That lifts in sport his mantle's drooping fold,
+    Proud to display that form of faultless mould.
+       Mighty Ephesian! with an eagle's flight
+    Thy proud soul mounted through the fields of light,
+    View'd the bright conclave of Heaven's blest abode,
+    And the cold marble leapt to life a god:
+    Contagious awe through breathless myriads ran,
+    And nations bow'd before the work of man.
+    For mild he seem'd, as in Elysian bowers,
+    Wasting in careless ease the joyous hours;
+    Haughty, as bards have sung, with princely sway
+    Curbing the fierce flame-breathing steeds of day;
+    Beauteous as vision seen in dreamy sleep
+    By holy maid on Delphi's haunted steep,
+    Mid the dim twilight of the laurel grove,
+    Too fair to worship, too divine to love."
+
+    _Henry Hart Milman._
+
+In the second portico, between Canova's statues and the Antinous, is
+(No. 43) a Venus and Cupid,--interesting because the Venus is a portrait
+of Sallustia Barbia Orbiana, wife of Alexander Severus. It was
+discovered in the fifteenth century, in the ruin near Sta. Croce in
+Gerusalemme, to which it has given a name. In the third portico, between
+the Antinous and the Laocoon, are two beautiful dogs. Between these we
+enter:
+
+The _Sala degli Animali_, containing a number of representations of
+animals in marble and alabaster. Perhaps the best is No. 116--two
+greyhounds playing. The statue of Commodus on horseback (No. 139) served
+as a model to Bernini for his figure of Constantine in the portico of
+St. Peter's.
+
+     "La Salle des Animaux au Vatican est comme un musée de l'école de
+     Myron; le naturel parfait qu'il donna à ses représentations
+     d'animaux y éclate partout. C'est une sorte de ménagerie de l'art,
+     et elle mérite de s'appeler, comme celle du Jardin des Plantes, une
+     ménagerie _d'animaux vivants_.
+
+     "Ces animaux sont pourtant d'un mérite inégal: parmi les meilleurs
+     morceaux on compte des chiens qui jouent ensemble avec beaucoup de
+     vérité, un cygne dont le duvet, un mouton tué dont la toison sont
+     très-bien rendus, une tête d'âne très-vraie et portant une couronne
+     de lierre, allusion au rôle de l'âne de Silène dans les mystères
+     bacchiques."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 276.
+
+On the right we enter:
+
+The _Galleria delle Statue_, once a summer-house of Innocent VIII., but
+arranged as a statue-gallery under Pius VI. In its lunettes are remains
+of frescoes by _Pinturicchio_. Beginning on the right, are:
+
+     248. An armed statue of Claudius Albinus standing on a cippus which
+     marked the spot where the body of Caius Cæsar was burnt, inscribed
+     C. CÆSAR GERMANICI CÆSARIS HIC CREMATUS EST.
+
+     250. The *Statue called "The Genius of the Vatican," supposed to be
+     a copy from a Cupid of Praxiteles which existed in the Portico of
+     Octavia in the time of Pliny. On the back are the holes for the
+     metal pins which supported the wings.
+
+     251. Athlete.
+
+     253. Triton, from Tivoli.
+
+     255. Paris.
+
+     Le Vatican possède une statue de Pâris jugeant les déesses. Cette
+     statue est-elle, comme on le pense généralement, une copie du Pâris
+     d'Euphranor?
+
+     "Euphranor avait-il choisi le moment où Pâris juge les déesses? Les
+     expressions de Pline pourraient en faire douter: il ne l'affirme
+     point; il dit que dans la statue d'Euphranor on eût pu reconnaître
+     le juge des trois déesses, l'amant d'Hélène et le vainqueur
+     d'Achille.
+
+            *       *       *       *       *
+
+     "La statue du Vatican est de beaucoup la plus remarquable des
+     statues de Pâris. On y sent, malgré ses imperfections, la présence
+     d'un original fameux; de plus, son attitude est celle de Pâris sur
+     plusieurs vases peints et sur plusieurs bas-reliefs, et nous
+     verrons que les bas-reliefs reproduisaient très-souvent une statue
+     célèbre. Il m'est impossible, il est vrai, de voir dans le Pâris du
+     Vatican tout ce que Pline dit du Pâris d'Euphranor. Je ne puis y
+     voir que le juge des déesses. L'expression de son visage montre
+     qu'il a contemplé la beauté de Vénus, et que le prix va être donné.
+     Rien n'annonce l'amant d'Hélène, ni surtout le vainqueur d'Achille;
+     mais ce qui était dans l'original aurait pu disparaître de la
+     copie."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 300.
+
+     256. Young Hercules.
+
+     259. Figure probably intended for Apollo, restored as Minerva.
+
+     260. A Greek relief, from a tomb.
+
+     261. Penelope, on a pedestal, with a relief of Bacchus and Ariadne.
+
+     "L'attente de Pénélope nous est présente, et, pour ainsi dire, dure
+     encore pour nous dans cette expressive Pénélope, dont le torse nous
+     a montré un spécimen de l'art grec sous la forme la plus
+     ancienne."--_Ampère, Hist. Rome_, iii. p. 452.
+
+     264. *Apollo Sauroctonos (killing a lizard), found on the Palatine
+     in 1777--a copy of a work of Praxiteles. Several other copies are
+     in existence, one in bronze, in the Villa Albani, inferior to this.
+     The right arm and the legs above the knees are restorations, well
+     executed.
+
+     "Apollon presque enfant épie un lézard qui se glisse le long d'un
+     arbre. On sait, à n'en pouvoir douter, d'après la description de
+     Pline et de Martial, que cet Apollon, souvent répété, est une
+     imitation de celui de Praxitèle, et quand on ne le saurait pas, on
+     l'eût deviné."--_Ampère_, iii. 313.
+
+     265. Amazon, found in thé Villa Mattei, the finest of the three
+     Amazons in the Vatican, which are all supposed to be copies from
+     the fifty statues of Amazons, which decorated the temple of Diana
+     at Ephesus.
+
+     267. Drunken Satyr.
+
+     268. Juno, from Otricoli.
+
+     271, 390. Posidippus and Menander, very fine statues, perfectly
+     preserved, owing to their having been kept through the middle ages
+     in the church of S. Lorenzo Pane e Perna, where they were
+     worshipped under the belief that they were statues of saints, a
+     belief which arose from their having metal discs over their heads,
+     a practice which prevailed with many Greek statues intended for the
+     open air. The marks of the metal pins for these discs may still be
+     seen, as well as those for a bronze protection for the feet, to
+     prevent their being worn away by the kisses of the faithful,--as on
+     the statue of St. Peter at St Peter's.
+
+Between these statues we enter:
+
+The _Hall of Busts_. Perhaps the best are:
+
+     278. Augustus, with a wreath of corn.
+
+     289. Julia Mammæa, mother of Alexander Severus.
+
+     299. Jupiter-Serapis, in basalt.
+
+     325. Jupiter.
+
+     357. Antinous.
+
+     388. *Roman Senator and his wife, from a tomb. (These busts, having
+     been much admired by the great historian, were copied for the
+     monument of Niebuhr at Bonn, erected, by his former pupil the King
+     of Prussia, to his memory--with that of his loving wife Gretchen,
+     who only survived him nine days.)
+
+     "Les têtes de deux époux, représentés au devant de leur tombeau
+     d'où ils semblent sortir à mi-corps et se tenant par le main, sont
+     surtout d'une simplicité et d'une vérité inexprimable. La femme est
+     assez jeune et assez belle, l'époux est vieux et très-laid; mais ce
+     groupe a un air honnête et digne qui répond pour tous deux d'une
+     vie de sérénité et de vertu. Nul récit ne pourrait aussi bien que
+     ces deux figures transporter au sein des moeurs domestiques de
+     Rome; en leur présence on se sent pénétré soi-même d'honnêteté, de
+     pudeur et de respect, comme si on était assis au chaste foyer de
+     Lucrèce."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iv. 103.
+
+Re-entering the Gallery of Statues, and following the left wall, are:
+
+     392. Septimius Severus.
+
+     393. Girl at a spring?
+
+     394. Neptune.
+
+     395. Apollo Citharoedus.
+
+     396. Wounded Adonis.
+
+     397. Bacchus, from Hadrian's Villa.
+
+     398. Macrinus (Imp. 217).
+
+     399. Æsculapius and Hygeia, from Palestrina.
+
+     400. Euterpe.
+
+     401. Mutilated group from the Niobides, found near Porta San Paolo.
+
+     405. Danaide.
+
+     406. Copy of the Faun of Praxiteles, very beautiful, but inferior
+     to that at the Capitol.
+
+     422. Head of a fountain, with Bacchanalian Procession.
+
+(Here is the entrance of the _Gabinetto delle Maschere_, which contains
+works of small importance. It is named from the mosaic upon the floor,
+of masks from Hadrian's Villa. It is seldom shown, probably because it
+contains a chair of rosso-antico, called "Sedia forata," found near the
+Lateran, and supposed to be the famous "Sella Stercoraria" used at the
+installation of the mediæval popes, and associated with the legend of
+Pope Joan.
+
+     "Le Pape élu (Célestine III. 1191) se prosterne devant l'autel
+     pendant que l'on chante le Te Deum: puis les Cardinaux Evêques le
+     conduisent à son siége derrière l'autel: là ils viennent à ses
+     pieds, et il leur donne le baiser de paix. On le mène ensuite à une
+     chaise posée devant la portique de la Basilique du Sauveur de
+     Latran. Cette chaise était nommée dès lors '_Stercoraria_,'
+     parceque elle est percée au fond: mais l'ouverture est petite, et
+     les antiquaires jugent que c'étoit pour égouter l'eau, et que cette
+     chaise servait à quelque bain."--_Fleury, Histoire Ecclésiastique_,
+     xv. p. 525.)
+
+462. Cinerary Urn of Alabaster.
+
+414. *Sleeping Ariadne, found _c._ 1503--formerly supposed to represent
+Cleopatra.
+
+     "The effect of sleep, so remarkable in this statue, and which could
+     not have been rendered by merely closing the lids over the eyes, is
+     produced by giving positive form to the eyelashes; a distinct
+     ridge, being raised at right angles to the surface of the lids,
+     with a slight indented line along the edge to show the
+     division."--_Shakspere Wood._
+
+     "La figure est certainement idéale et n'est point un portrait; mais
+     ce qui ne laisse aucun doute sur le nom à lui donner, c'est un
+     bas-relief, un peu refait, il est vrai, qu'on a eu la très-heureuse
+     idée de placer auprès d'elle.
+
+     "On y voit une femme endormie dont l'attitude est tout à fait
+     pareille à celle de la statue, Thésée qui va s'embarquer pendant le
+     sommeil d'Ariane, et Bacchus qui arrive pour la consoler. C'est
+     exactement ce que l'on voyait peint dans le temple de Bacchus à
+     Athènes.
+
+     "Cette statue, belle sans doute, mais peut-être trop vantée, doit
+     être postérieure à l'époque d'Alexandre. Sa pose gracieuse est
+     presque maniérée: on dirait qu'elle se regarde dormir. La
+     disposition de la draperie est compliquée et un peu embrouillée, à
+     tel point que les uns prennent pour une couverture ce que d'autres
+     regardent comme un manteau."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 534.
+
+     Beneath this figure is a fine sarcophagus, representing the Battle
+     of the Giants.
+
+     412, 413. "The Barberini Candelabra" from Hadrian's Villa.
+
+     416. Ariadne.
+
+     417. Mercury.
+
+     420. Lucius Verus--on a pedestal which supported the ashes of
+     Drusus in the Mausoleum of Augustus.
+
+From the centre of the Sala degli Animali we now enter:
+
+The _Sala delle Muse_, adorned with sixteen Corinthian columns from
+Hadrian's Villa. It is chiefly filled with statues and busts from the
+villa of Cassius at Tivoli. The statues of the Muses and that called
+Apollo Musagetes (No. 516) are generally attributed to the time of the
+Antonines.
+
+     "Nous savons que l'Apollon Citharède de Scopas était dans le temple
+     d'Apollon Palatin, élevé par Auguste; les médailles, Properce et
+     Tibulle, nous apprennent que le dieu s'y voyait revêtu d'une longue
+     robe.
+
+    'Ima videbatur talis illudere palla.'
+
+    _Tib._ iii. 4, 35.
+
+    'Pythius in longa carmina veste sonat.'
+
+    _Prop._ ii. 31, 16.
+
+     "Nous ne pouvons donc hésiter à admettre que l'Apollon de la salle
+     des Muses au Vatican a eu pour premier original l'Apollon de
+     Scopas.
+
+     "Nous savons aussi qu'un Apollon de Philiscus et un Apollon de
+     Timarchide (celui-ci tenant la lyre), sculpteurs grecs moins
+     anciens que Scopas, étaient dans un autre temple d'Apollon, près du
+     portique d'Octavie, en compagnie des Muses, comme l'Apollon
+     Citharède du Vatican a été trouvé avec celles qui l'entourent
+     aujourd'hui dans la salle des Muses. Il est donc vraisemblable que
+     cet Apollon est d'après Philiscus ou Timarchide, qui eux-mêmes
+     avaient sans doute copié l'Apollon _à la lyre_ de Scopas et
+     l'avaient placé au milieu des Muses.
+
+     "Apollon est là, ainsi que plus anciennement il avait été
+     représenté sur le coffre de Cypsélus, avec cette inscription qui
+     conviendrait à la statue du Vatican: 'Alentour est le choeur
+     gracieux des Muses, auquel il préside;' et, comme dit Pindare, 'au
+     milieu du beau choeur des Muses, Apollon frappe du plectrum d'or
+     la lyre aux sept voix."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 292.
+
+Here we reach the _Sala Rotonda_, built by Pius VI., paved with a mosaic
+found in 1780 in the baths of Otricoli, and containing in its centre a
+grand porphyry vase from the baths of Titus. On either side of the
+entrance are colossal heads of Tragedy and Comedy, from Hadrian's Villa.
+Beginning from the right are:
+
+     539. *Bust of Jupiter from Otricoli--the finest extant.
+
+     540. Antinous, from Hadrian's Villa. All the drapery (probably once
+     of bronze) is a restoration.
+
+     "Antinous was drowned in the Nile, A.D. 131. Some accounts assert
+     that he drowned himself in obedience to an oracle, which demanded
+     for the life of the emperor Hadrian the sacrifice of the object
+     dearest to him. However this may be, Hadrian lamented his death
+     with extravagant weakness, proclaimed his divinity to the jeering
+     Egyptians, and consecrated a temple in his honour. He gave the name
+     of Besantinopolis to a city in which he was worshipped in
+     conjunction with an obscure divinity named Besa."--_Merivale_,
+     lxvi.
+
+     541. Faustina the elder, wife of Antoninus Pius.
+
+     542. Augustus, veiled.
+
+     543. *Hadrian, found in his mausoleum.
+
+     544. *Colossal Hercules, in gilt bronze, found (1864) near the
+     Theatre of Pompey. The feet and ankles are restorations by
+     Tenerani.
+
+     546. *Bust of Antinous.
+
+     547. Sea-god, from Pozzuoli.
+
+     548. *Nerva.
+
+     "Among the treasures of antiquity preserved in modern Rome, none
+     surpasses,--none perhaps equals,--in force and dignity, the sitting
+     statue of Nerva, which draws all eyes in the rotunda of the
+     Vatican, embodying the highest ideal of the Roman magnate, the
+     finished warrior, statesman, and gentleman of an age of varied
+     training and wide practical experience."--_Merivale_, ch. xliii.
+
+     549. Jupiter Serapis.
+
+     550. *The Barberini Juno.
+
+     551. Claudius.
+
+     552. Juno Sospita, from Lanuvium. This is the only statue in the
+     Vatican of which we can be certain that it was a worshipped idol;
+     the sandals of the Tyrrhenian Juno turn up at the end,--no other
+     Juno wears these sandals.
+
+     553. Plotina, wife of Trajan.
+
+     554. Julia Domna, wife of Septimius Severus.
+
+     556. Pertinax.
+
+The _Sala a Croce Greca_ contains:
+
+     _On the right._--The porphyry sarcophagus of Sta. Constantia,
+     daughter of Constantine the Great, adorned with sculptures of a
+     vintage, brought hither most inappropriately, from her church near
+     St'Agnese.
+
+     _On the left._--The porphyry sarcophagus of Sta. Helena, mother of
+     Constantine the Great, carried off from her tomb (now called Torre
+     Pignatarra) by Anastasius IV., and placed in the Lateran, whence it
+     was brought hither by Pius VI. The restoration of its reliefs,
+     representing battle scenes of the time of Constantine, cost
+     £20,000.
+
+At the end of the hall on the right is a recumbent river-god, said to
+have been restored by Michael Angelo. The stairs, adorned with twenty
+ancient columns from Palestrina, lead to:
+
+The _Sala della Biga_, so called from a white marble chariot, drawn by
+two horses. Only the body of the chariot (which long served as an
+episcopal throne in the church of S. Marco) and part of the horse on
+the right, are ancient; the remainder is restoration. Among the
+sculptures here, are:
+
+     608. Bearded Bacchus.
+
+     609. An interesting sarcophagus representing a chariot-race. The
+     chariots are driven by Amorini, who are not attending to what they
+     are about, and drive over one another. The eggs and dolphins on the
+     winning-posts indicated the number of times they had gone round;
+     each time they passed another egg and dolphin were put up.
+
+     610. Bacchus, as a woman.
+
+     611. Alcibiades?
+
+     612. Veiled priest, from the Giustiniani collection.
+
+     614. Apollo Citharædus.
+
+     615. Discobolus, copy of a bronze statue by Naubides.
+
+     616. *Phocion, very remarkable and beautiful from the extreme
+     simplicity of the drapery.
+
+     618. Discobolus, copy of the bronze statue of Myron--inferior to
+     that at the Palazzo Massimo.
+
+     "Il n'y a pas une statue dont l'original soit connu avec plus de
+     certitude que le Discobole. Cet original fut l'athlète lançant le
+     disque de Myron.
+
+     "C'est bien la statue se contournant avec effort dont parle
+     Quintilien; en effet, la statue, penchée en avant et dans
+     l'attitude du jet, porte le corps sur une jambe, tandis que l'autre
+     est traînante derrière lui. Ce n'est pas la main, c'est la personne
+     tout entière qui va lancer le disque."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii.
+     270.
+
+     619. Charioteer.
+
+Proceeding in a straight line from the top of the stairs, we enter:
+
+The _Galleria dei Candelabri_, 300 feet long, filled with small pieces
+of sculpture. Among these we may notice in the centre, on the right,
+Bacchus and Silenus, found near the Sancta-Sanctorum, also:
+
+     194. Boy with a goose.
+
+     224. Nemesis.
+
+     'Une petite statue da Vatican rappelle une curieuse anecdote dont
+     le héros est Agoracrite. Alcamène et lui avaient fait chacun une
+     statue de Vénus. Celle d'Alcamène fut jugée la meilleure par les
+     Athéniens. Agoracrite, indigné de ce qui lui semblait une
+     injustice, transforma la sienne en Némésis, déesse vengeresse de
+     l'équité violée, et le rendit aux habitants du bourg de Rhamnus, à
+     condition qu'elle ne serait jamais exposée à Athènes. Ceci montre
+     combien sa Vénus avait gardé la sévérité du type primitif. Ce n'est
+     pas de la Vénus du Capitole ou de la Vénus de Médicis, qu'on aurait
+     pu faire une Némésis. Némésis avait pour emblème la coudée, signe
+     de la _mesure_ que Némésis ne permet point de dépasser, et
+     l'avant-bras était la figure de la _coudée_, par suite, de la
+     mesure. C'est pourquoi quand on représentait Némésis on plaçait
+     toujours l'avant-bras de manière d'attirer sur lui l'attention.
+     Dans la Némésis du Vatican la donnée sévère est devenue un motif
+     aimable. Cet avant-bras, qu'il fallait montrer pour rappeller une
+     loi terrible, Némésis le montre en effet, mais elle s'en sert avec
+     grâce pour rattacher son vêtement."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 260.
+
+     253. Statuette of Ceres, the head from some other statue.
+
+Hence we enter:
+
+The _Galleria degli Arazzi_ (open gratis on Mondays), hung with
+tapestries from the New Testament History, executed for the lower walls
+of the Sistine Chapel, in 1515--16, for Leo X., from the cartoons of
+_Raphael_, of which seven were purchased in Flanders by Charles I., and
+are now at Hampton Court. The tapestries are ill arranged. According to
+their present order, beginning on the left wall, they are:
+
+     1. St. Peter receiving the keys. (On the border, the flight of
+     Cardinal de' Medici from Florence in 1494, disguised as a
+     Franciscan Monk.)
+
+     2. The Miraculous draught of Fishes.
+
+     3. The Sacrifice at Lystra.
+
+     4. St. Paul preaching at Athens.
+
+     5. The Saviour and Mary Magdalene.
+
+     6. The Supper at Emmaus.
+
+     7. The Presentation in the Temple.
+
+     8. The Adoration of the Shepherds.
+
+     9. The Ascension.
+
+     10. The Adoration of the Magi.
+
+     11. The Resurrection.
+
+     12. The Day of Pentecost.
+
+Returning, on the right wall, are:
+
+     1. An Allegorical Composition of the Triumph of Religion (by _Van
+     Orley_ and other pupils of Raphael).
+
+     2. The Stoning of Stephen (on the border the return of the Cardinal
+     de' Medici to Florence as Legate).
+
+     3. Elymas the Sorcerer (?--removed 1869--70).
+
+     4, 5, 6. Massacre of the Innocents.
+
+     7. (Smaller than the others.) Christ falling under the Cross.
+
+     8. Christ appearing to his disciples on the shore of the Lake of
+     Galilee.
+
+     9. Peter and John healing the lame man.
+
+     10. The Conversion of St. Paul.
+
+The Arazzi were long used as church decorations on high festivals.
+
+     "On Corpus-Christi Day I learnt the true destination of the
+     Tapestries, when they transformed colonnades and open spaces into
+     handsome halls and corridors: and while they placed before us the
+     power of the most gifted of men, they gave us at the same time the
+     happiest example of art and handicraft, each in its highest
+     perfection, meeting for mutual completion."--_Goethe._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The _Library of the Vatican_ is shown from 12 to 3, except on Sundays
+and festivals, but the visitor is hurried through in a crowd by a
+custode, and there is no time for examination of the individual objects.
+The entrance is by a door on the left at the end of the Galleria
+Lapidaria, which leads to the museum of statues. The Papal Library was
+founded by the early popes at the Lateran. The Public Library was begun
+by Nicholas V., and greatly increased under Sixtus IV. (1475) and Sixtus
+V. (1588), who built the present halls for the collection. In 1623 the
+library was increased by the gift of the "Bibliotheca Palatina" of
+Heidelberg, captured by Tilly from Maximilian of Bavaria; in 1657 by the
+"Bibliotheca Urbinas," founded by Federigo da Montefeltro; in 1690 by
+the "Bibliotheca Reginensis," or "Alexandrina," which belonged to
+Christina of Sweden; in 1746 by the Bibliotheca Ottoboniana, purchased
+by the Ottobuoni pope, Alexander VIII. The number of Greek, Latin, and
+Oriental MSS. in the collection has been reckoned at 23,580.
+
+The ante-chambers are hung with portraits of the Librarians;--among
+them, in the first room, is that of Cardinal Mezzofanti. In this room
+are facsimiles of the columns found in the Triopium of Herodes Atticus
+(see the account of the Valle Caffarelli), of which the originals are at
+Naples. From the second ante-chamber we enter the _Great Hall_, 220 feet
+long, decorated with frescoes by _Scipione Gaetani_, _Cesare Nebbia_,
+and others,--unimportant in themselves, but producing a rich general
+effect of colour. No books or MSS. are visible; they are all enclosed in
+painted cupboards, so that of a _library_ there is no appearance
+whatever, and it is only disappointing to be told that in one cupboard
+are the MSS. of the Greek Testament of the fifth century, Virgil of the
+fifth, and Terence of the fourth centuries, and that another contains a
+Dante, with miniatures by _Giulio Clovio_,[348] &c. Ranged along the
+middle of the hall are some of the handsome presents made to Pius IX. by
+different foreign potentates, including the Sèvres font, in which the
+Prince Imperial was baptized, presented by Napoleon III., and some
+candelabra given by Napoleon I. to Pius VII. At the end of the hall,
+long corridors open out on either side. Turning to the left, the second
+room has two interesting frescoes--one representing St. Peter's as
+designed by Michael Angelo, the other the erection of the obelisk in the
+Piazza S. Pietro under Fontana. At the end of the third room are two
+ancient statues, said to represent Aristides, and Hippolytus Bishop of
+Porto. The fourth room is a museum of Christian antiquities, and
+contains, on the left, a collection of lamps and other small objects
+from the Catacombs; on the right, some fine ivories by _Guido da
+Spoleto_, and a Deposition from the Cross attributed to _Michael
+Angelo_. The room beyond this, painted by _Raphael Mengs_, is called the
+Stanza dei Papiri, and is adorned with papyri of the fifth, sixth, and
+seventh centuries. The next room has an interesting collection of
+pictures, by early masters of the schools of _Giotto_, _Giottino_,
+_Cimabue_, and _Fra Angelico_. Here is a Prie Dieu, of carved oak and
+ivory, presented to Pius IX. by the four bishops of the province of
+Tours.
+
+At the end of this room, not generally shown, is the _Chapel of St. Pius
+V._
+
+The _Appartamenti Borgia_, which are reached from hence, are only shown
+by a special permission, difficult to obtain. They consist of four
+rooms, which were built by Alexander VI., though their beautiful
+decorations were chiefly added by Leo X. The _first room_ is painted by
+_Giovanni da Udine_ and _Pierino del Vaga_, and represents the course of
+the planets,--Jupiter drawn by eagles, Venus by doves, Diana (the moon)
+by nymphs, Mars by wolves, Mercury by cocks, Apollo (the sun) by horses,
+Saturn by dragons. These frescoes, executed at the time Michael Angelo
+was painting the Last Judgment, are interesting as the last revival
+under Clement VII. of the pagan art so popular in the papal palace under
+Leo X.
+
+The second room, painted by _Pinturicchio_, has beautiful lunettes of
+the Annunciation, Adoration of the Magi, Resurrection, Ascension,
+Descent of the Holy Ghost, and Assumption of the Virgin. The ceiling of
+the _third room_ has paintings by _Pinturicchio_ of the Martyrdom of St
+Sebastian; the Visitation of St Elizabeth; the Meeting of St Anthony
+with St. Paul, the first hermit; St. Catherine before Maximian; the
+Flight of St. Barbara; St. Julian of Nicomedia; and, over the door, the
+Virgin and Child. This last picture is of curious historical interest,
+as a relic of the libertinism of the court of Alexander VI. (Rodrigo
+Borgia), the "figure of the Virgin being a faithful representation of
+Giulia Farnese, the too celebrated Vanozza," mistress of the pope, and
+mother of his children, Cæsar and Lucrezia. "She held upon her knees the
+infant Jesus, and Alexander knelt at her feet."
+
+The fourth room, also painted by _Pinturicchio_, is adorned with
+allegorical figures of the Arts and Sciences, and of the Cardinal
+Virtues.
+
+     "On the accession of the infamous Alexander VI., Pinturicchio was
+     employed by him to paint the Appartamento Borgia, and a great
+     number of rooms, both in the castle of S. Angelo and in the
+     pontifical palace. The patronage of this pope was still more fatal
+     to the arts than that of the Medici at Florence. The subjects
+     represented in the castle of S. Angelo were drawn from the life of
+     Alexander himself, and the portraits of his relations and friends
+     were introduced there,--amongst others, those of his brothers,
+     sisters, and that of the infamous Cæsar Borgia. To all acquainted
+     with the scandalous history of this family, this representation
+     appeared a commemoration of their various crimes, and it was
+     impossible to regard it in any other light, when, in addition to
+     the publicity they affected to give to these scandalous excesses,
+     they appeared desirous of making art itself their accomplice; and
+     by an excess of profanation hitherto unexampled in the Catholic
+     world, Alexander VI. caused himself to be represented, in a room in
+     the Vatican, in the costume of one of the Magi, kneeling before the
+     holy Virgin, whose head was no other than the portrait of the
+     beautiful Giulia Farnese ('Vanozza'), whose adventures are
+     unfortunately too well known. We may indeed say that the walls have
+     in this case made up for the silence of the courtiers: for on them
+     was traced, for the benefit of contemporaries and posterity, an
+     undeniable proof of the depravity of the age.
+
+     "At the sight of that Appartamento Borgia, which is entirely
+     painted by Pinturicchio, we shall experience a sort of satisfaction
+     in discovering the inferiority of this purely mercenary work, as
+     compared with the other productions of the same artist, and we
+     cannot but rejoice that it is so unworthy of him. Such an ignoble
+     task was not adapted to an artist of the Umbrian school, and there
+     is good reason to believe that, after this act of servility,
+     Pinturicchio became disgusted with Rome, and returned to the
+     mountains of Umbria, in search of nobler inspirations."--_Rio.
+     Poetry of Christian Art._
+
+A door on the right of the room with the old pictures opens into a room
+containing a very interesting collection of ancient frescoes. On the
+right wall is the celebrated "_Nozze Aldobrandini_," found in 1606[349]
+in some ruins belonging to the baths of Titus near the arch of Gallienus
+on the Esquiline, and considered to be the finest specimen of ancient
+pictorial art in Rome. It was purchased at first by the Aldobrandini
+family, whence its name. It represents an ancient Greek ceremony,
+possibly the nuptials of Peleus and Thetis. There is a fine copy by
+Nicholas Poussin in the Doria Palace.
+
+     "S'il fait allusion à un sujet mythologique, le réel y est à côté
+     de l'idéal, et la mythologie y est appliquée à la représentation
+     d'un mariage ordinaire. Tout porte à y voir une peinture romaine,
+     mais l'auteur s'était inspiré des Grecs, comme on s'en inspirait
+     presque toujours à Rome. La nouvelle mariée, assise sur le lit
+     nuptial et attendant son époux, a cette expression de pudeur
+     virginale, d'embarras modeste, qui avait rendu célèbre un tableau
+     dont le sujet était le mariage de Roxane et l'auteur Ætion, peintre
+     grec."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iv. 127.
+
+Opposite to this is a Race of the Cupids, from Ostia. The other frescoes
+in this room were found in the ruins on the Esquiline and at the Torre
+di Marancia.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The _Etruscan Museum_ can be visited on application to the custode,
+every day except Monday, from 10 to 2. It is reached by the staircase
+which passes the entrance to the Gallery of Candelabra: after which one
+must ring at a closed door on the right.
+
+     "This magnificent collection is principally the fruit of the
+     excavating partnership established, some twelve or fifteen years
+     since, between the Papal government and the Campanari of
+     Toscanella; and will render the memory of Gregory XVI., who
+     forwarded its formation with more zeal than he ordinarily
+     displayed, ever honoured by all interested in antiquarian science.
+     As the excavations were made in the neighbourhood of Vulci, most of
+     the articles are from that necropolis; yet the collection has been
+     considerably enlarged by the addition of others previously in the
+     possession of the government, and still more by recent acquisitions
+     from the Etruscan cemeteries of Cervetri, Corneto, Bomarzo, Orte,
+     Toscanella, and other sites within the Papal dominions."--_Dennis._
+
+_The 1st Room_--
+
+     Contains three sarcophagi of terra-cotta from Toscanella, with
+     three life-size figures reposing upon them. Their extreme length is
+     remarkable. The figure on the left wears a fillet, indicating
+     priesthood. The head of the family was almost always priest or
+     priestess. Most of the objects in terra-cotta, which have been
+     discovered, come from Toscanella. The two horses' heads in this
+     room, in nenfro, i.e. volcanic tufa, were found at the entrance of
+     a tomb at Vulci.
+
+_The 2nd Room_--
+
+     Is a corridor filled with cinerary urns, chiefly from Volterra,
+     bearing recumbent figures, ludicrously stunted. The large
+     sarcophagus on the left supports the bearded figure of a man, and
+     is adorned with reliefs of a figure in a chariot and musicians
+     painted red. The urns in this room are of alabaster, which is the
+     characteristic of Volterra.
+
+_The 3rd Room_--
+
+     Has in the centre a large sarcophagus of nenfro, found at
+     Tarquinii, in 1834, supporting a reclining figure of a Lucumo, with
+     a scroll in his hand, "recalling the monuments of the middle ages."
+     At the sides are reliefs representing the story of Clytemnestra and
+     Ægisthus,--the Theban brothers,--the sacrifice of
+     Clytemnestra,--and Pyrrhus slaying the infant Astyanax. In this
+     room is a slab with a bilingual inscription, in Latin and Umbrian,
+     from Todi. In the comers are some curious cinerary urns shaped like
+     houses.
+
+_The 4th Room_--
+
+     Is the Chamber of Terra-cottas. In the centre is a most beautiful
+     statue of Mercury found at Tivoli. At the sides are fragments of
+     female figures from Vulci,--and an interesting terra-cotta urn from
+     Toscanella, with a youth lying on a couch. "From the gash in his
+     thigh, and the hound at his bed-side, he is usually called Adonis;
+     but it may be merely the effigy of some young Etruscan, who met his
+     death in the wild-boar chase."
+
+_The 5th Room_--
+
+     This and the three following rooms are occupied by Vases. The vases
+     in the 5th room are mostly small amphoræ, in the second or Archaic
+     style, with black figures on the ground of the clay. On a column,
+     near the window, is a _Crater_, or mixing-vase, from Vulci, with
+     parti-coloured figures on a very pale ground, and in the most
+     beautiful style of Greek art. It represents Mercury presenting the
+     infant Bacchus to Silenus. To the left of the window is a humorous
+     representation of the visit of Jupiter and Mercury to Alcmena, who
+     is looking at them out of a window. In the cabinets are objects in
+     crystal from Palestrina.
+
+_The 6th Room_--
+
+     In the centre of this room are five magnificent vases. The central,
+     from Cervetri, "is of the rare form called _Holmos_--a large
+     globe-shaped bowl on a tall stand, like an enormous cup and ball;"
+     its paintings are of wild animals. Nearest the entrance is, with
+     three handles, "a _Calpis_, of the third or perfect style," from
+     Vulci, with paintings of Apollo and six Muses. Behind this, from
+     Vulci, is "a large _Amphora_ of the second or Archaic style," in
+     which hardness and severity of design are combined with most
+     conscientious execution of detail. It represents Achilles
+     ("Achilleos") and Ajax ("Aiantos") playing at dice, or _astralagi_.
+     Achilles cries "Four!" and Ajax "Three!"--the said words, in choice
+     Attic, issuing from their mouths. The maker's name, "Echsekias," is
+     recorded, as well as that of "the brave Onetorides" to whom it was
+     presented. On the other side of the vase is a family scene of
+     "Kastor" with his horse, and "Poludeukes" playing with his dog,
+     "Tyndareos" and "Leda" standing by. 4th, is an _Amphora_ from Cære,
+     representing the body of Achilles borne to Peleus and Thetis. 5th,
+     is a _Calpis_ from Vulci, representing the death of Hector in the
+     arms of Minerva.
+
+     The 6th vase on the shelf of the entrance wall is the kind of
+     amphora called a _Pelice_, from Cære. "Two men are represented
+     sitting under an olive-tree, each with an amphora at his feet," and
+     one who is measuring the oil exclaims, "O father Jupiter, would
+     that I were rich!" On the reverse of the vase is the same pair, at
+     a subsequent period, when the prayer has been heard, and the
+     oil-dealer cries, "Verily, yea, verily, it hath been filled to
+     overflowing." By the window is a _Calpis_, representing a boy with
+     a hoop in one hand, and a stolen cock in the other, for which his
+     tutor is reproving him.
+
+_The 7th Room_--
+
+     Is an arched corridor. In the second niche, is a _Hydria_ with
+     Minerva and Hercules, from Vulci. Sixth on the line, is an
+     _Amphora_ from Vulci; "'Ekabe' (Hecuba) presents a goblet to her
+     son, 'the brave Hector,'--and regards him with such intense
+     interest, that she spills the wine as she pours it out to him.
+     'Priamos' stands by, leaning on his staff, looking mournfully at
+     his son, as if presaging his fate." Many other vases in this room
+     are of great beauty.
+
+_The 8th Room_--
+
+     "Contains _Cylices_ or _Pateræ_, which are more rare than the
+     upright vases, and not inferior in beauty."
+
+_The 9th Room_--
+
+     Entered from the 6th room, is the jewel room. Among the bronzes on
+     the right, is a warrior in armour found at Todi in 1835 and a
+     bronze couch with a raised place for the head, found in the
+     Regulini Galassi tomb at Cervetri, where it bore the corpse of a
+     high priest. A boy with a bulla, sitting, from Tarquinii, is
+     "supposed to represent Tages, the mysterious boy-god, who sprung
+     from the furrows of that site."
+
+     At the opposite end of the room is a biga or war-chariot, not
+     Etruscan, but Roman, found in the villa of the Quintilii, near the
+     Via Appia. Near this are some colossal fragments of bronze
+     statues, found near Civita Vecchia. A beautiful oval _Cista_, with
+     a handle formed by two swans bearing a boy and a girl, is from
+     Vulci; and so are the braziers or censers retaining the tongs,
+     shovel, and rake, found with them:--"the tongs are on wheels, and
+     terminate in serpents' heads; the shovel handle ends in a swan's
+     neck; and the rake in a human hand." Among the smaller relics are a
+     curious bottle from Cære, with an Etruscan alphabet and spelling
+     lesson (!) scratched upon it, and a pair of Etruscan clogs found in
+     a tomb at Vulci.
+
+     In the centre of the room is the jewel-case of glass. The whole of
+     the upper division and one compartment of the lower are devoted to
+     Cervetri (Cære). All these objects are from the Regulini Galassi
+     tomb, for all the other tombs had been rifled at an early period,
+     except one, whence the objects were taken by Campana. The
+     magnificent oak-wreath with the small ornaments and the large
+     ear-rings were worn by a lady, over whom was written in Etruscan
+     characters, "Me Larthia,"--I, the Great Lady,--evidently because at
+     the time of her death, 3000 years ago, it was supposed that she was
+     so very great that the memory of her name could never by any
+     possibility perish, and that therefore it was quite unnecessary to
+     record it. The tomb was divided, and she was walled up with
+     precious spices (showing what the commerce of Etruria must have
+     been) in one half of it. It was several hundred years before any
+     one was found of sufficient dignity to occupy the other half of the
+     great lady's tomb. Then the high priest of Etruria died, and was
+     buried there with all his ornaments. His were the large bracelets,
+     the fillets for the head, with the plate of gold covering the head,
+     and a second plate of gold which covered the forehead--worn only on
+     the most solemn occasions. This may be considered to have been the
+     headdress of Aaron. His also was the broad plate of gold, covering
+     the breast, reminding of the Urim and Thummim. The bronze bed on
+     which he lay (and on which the ornaments were found lying where the
+     body had mouldered) is preserved in another part of the room, and
+     the great incense burner filled with precious spices which was
+     found by his side. The three large bollas on his breast were filled
+     with incense, whose perfume was still so strong when the tomb was
+     opened, that those who burnt it could not remain in the room.
+
+     The ivy leaves on the ornaments denote the worship of Bacchus, a
+     late period in Etruria: laurel denotes a victor in battle or the
+     games.
+
+_The 10th Room_--
+
+     (Entrance on right of the jewel-room), is a passage containing a
+     number of Roman water-pipes of lead, and the bronze figure of a boy
+     with a bird and an Etruscan inscription on his leg, from Perugia.
+
+_The 11th Room_--
+
+     Is hung with paintings on canvas copied from the principal tombs of
+     Vulci and Tarquinii. Beginning from the right, on entering, they
+     take the following order:
+
+    From the Camera del Morto: Tarquinii.
+    From the Grotta delle Bighe, or Grotta Stackelberg: Tarquinii.
+    From the Grotta Querciola: Tarquinii
+    From the Grotta della Iscrizioni: Tarquinii.
+    From the Grotta del Triclinio, or Grotta Marzi: Tarquinii.
+    From the Grotta del Barone, or Grotta del Ministro: Tarquinii.
+    From the painted tomb at Vulci.
+
+     "All the paintings from Tarquinii are still to be seen on that
+     site, though not in so perfect a state as they are here
+     represented. But the tomb at Vulci is utterly destroyed."
+
+     Each of the paintings is most interesting. That of the death-bed
+     scene proves that the Etruscans believed in the immortality of the
+     soul. In the upper division a daughter is mounting on a stool to
+     reach the high bed and give a last kiss to her dying father, while
+     the son is wailing and lamenting in the background. Below, is the
+     rejoicing spirit, freed from the trammels of the flesh.
+
+     In the scenes representing the games, the horses are painted bright
+     red and bright blue, or black and red. These may be considered to
+     have been the different colours of the rival parties. A number of
+     jars for oil and wine are arranged in this room. All the black
+     pottery is from Northern Etruria.
+
+_The 12th Room_ (entered from the left of the jewel room) is a very
+meagre and most inefficient facsimile of an ordinary Etruscan tomb. It
+is guarded by two lions in nenfro, found at Vulci.[350]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_The Egyptian Museum_ is entered by a door on the left of the entrance
+of the Museo Pio-Clementino. It is open gratis on Mondays from 12 to 3.
+The collection is chiefly due to Pius VII. and Gregory XVI. The greater
+part is of no especial importance.
+
+_The 6th Room_ contains eight statues of the goddess Pasht from Carnac.
+
+_The 8th Room_ is occupied by Roman imitations of Egyptian statues, from
+the Villa Adriana.
+
+     "Ces statues sont toutes des traductions de l'art égyptien en art
+     grec. L'alliance, la fusion de la sculpture égyptienne et de la
+     sculpture gréco-romaine est un des traits les plus saillantes de
+     cosmopolitisme si étranger à d'anciennes traditions nationales, et
+     dont Adrien, par ses voyages, ses goûts, ces monuments, fut la plus
+     éclatante manifestation.
+
+     "Sauf l'Antinoüs, les produits de cette sculpture d'imitation bien
+     que datant d'une époque encore brillante de l'art romain, ne
+     sauraient le disputer à leurs modèles. Pour s'en convaincre, il
+     suffit de les comparer aux statues vraiment égyptiennes qui
+     remplissent une salle voisine. Dans celles-ci, la réalité du détail
+     est méprisée et sacrifiée; mais les traits fondamentaux, les
+     linéaments essentiels de la forme sont rendus admirablement. De là
+     un grand style, car employer l'expression la plus générale, c'est
+     le secret de la grandeur du style, comme a dit Buffon. Cette
+     élévation, cette sobriété du génie égyptien ne se retrouvent plus
+     dans les imitations bâtardes du temps d'Adrien."--_Ampère, Emp._
+     ii. 197, 202.
+
+On the right is the Nile in black marble; opposite the entrance is a
+colossal statue of Antinous, the favourite of Hadrian, in white marble.
+
+     "Il est naturel qu'Antinoüs, qui s'était, disait-on, précipité dans
+     le Nil, ait été représenté sous les traits d'un dieu égyptien ...
+     La physiognomie triste d'Antinoüs sied bien à un dieu d'Egypte, et
+     le style grec emprunte au reflet du style égyptien une grandeur
+     sombre."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii 196.
+
+_The 9th Room_ contains colossal Egyptian statues. On the right is the
+figure of the mother of Rhamses II. (Sesostris) between two lions of
+basalt, which were found in the Baths of Agrippa, and which long
+decorated the Fontana dei Termini. Upon the base of these lions is
+inscribed the name of the Egyptian king Nectanebo.
+
+     "Dans cette sculpture bien égyptienne, on sent déjà le souffle de
+     l'art grec. La pose de ces lions est la pose roide et monumentale
+     des lions à tête humaine de Louqsor; la crinière est encore de
+     convention, mais la vie est exprimée, les muscles sont accusés avec
+     un soin et un relief que la sculpture purement égyptienne n'a pas
+     connus."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 198.
+
+     "Ces lions ont une expression remarquable de force et de repos; il
+     y a quelque chose dans leur physiognomie qui n'appartient ni à
+     l'animal ni à l'homme: ils semblent une puissance de la nature, et
+     l'on conçoit, en les voyant, comment les dieux du paganisme
+     pouvaient être représentés sous cet emblème."--_Mad. de Staël._
+
+In the centre of the entrance-wall are, Ptolemy-Philadelphus, and, on
+his left, his queen Arsinoë, of red granite. These were found in the
+gardens of Sallust, and were formerly preserved in the Senator's Palace.
+
+     "There is a fine collection of Egyptian antiquities in the Vatican;
+     and the ceilings of the rooms in which they are arranged, are
+     painted to represent a starlight sky in the desert. It may seem an
+     odd idea, but it is very effective. The grim, half-human monsters
+     from the temples, look more grim and monstrous underneath the deep
+     dark blue; it sheds a strange uncertain gloomy air on everything--a
+     mystery adapted to the objects; and you leave them, as you find
+     them, shrouded in a solemn night."--_Dickens._
+
+The Egyptian Gallery has an egress into the Sala a Croce Greca.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The windows of the Egyptian Museum look upon the inner _Garden of the
+Vatican_, which may be reached by a door at the end of the long gallery
+of the Museo Chiaramonti, before ascending to the Torso. The garden
+which is thus entered, called _Giardino della Pigna_, is in fact merely
+the second great quadrangle of the Vatican, planted with shrubs and
+flowers. Several interesting relics are preserved here. In the centre
+is the _Pedestal of the Column of Antoninus Pius_, found in 1709 on the
+Monte Citorio. The column was a simple memorial pillar of granite,
+erected by the two adopted sons of the emperor, Marcus Aurelius and
+Lucius Verus. It was broken up to mend the obelisk of Psammeticus I. at
+the Monte Citorio. Among the reliefs of the pedestal is one of a winged
+genius guiding Antoninus and Faustina to Olympus. In the great
+semicircular niche of Bramante, at the end of the court-garden, is the
+famous _Pigna_, a gigantic fir-cone, which once crowned the summit of
+the Mausoleum of Hadrian. Thence it was first removed to the front of
+the old basilica of St. Peter's. In the fresco of the old St. Peter's at
+S. Martino al Monte, the pigna is introduced, but it is there placed in
+the centre of the nave, a position it never occupied. Dante saw it at
+St. Peter's, and compares it to a giant's head (it is eleven feet high)
+which he saw through the mist in the last circle of hell.
+
+    "La faccia mi parea lunga e grossa
+    Come la pina di S. Pietro in Roma."
+
+On either side of the pigna are two bronze peacocks, which are said to
+have stood on either side the entrance of Hadrian's Mausoleum.
+
+     "Je pense qu'ils y avaient été placés en l'honneur des impératrices
+     dont les cendres devaient s'y trouver. La paon consacré à Junon
+     était le symbole de l'apothéose des impératrices, comme l'oiseau
+     dédié à Jupiter celui de l'apothéose des empereurs, car le mausolée
+     d'Adrien n'était pas pour lui seul, mais, comme avaient été le
+     mausolée d'Auguste et le temple des Flaviens, pour toute la famille
+     impériale."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 212.
+
+A flight of steps leads from this court to the narrow _Terrace of the
+Navicella_, in front of the palace, so called from a bronze ship with
+which its fountain is decorated. The visitor should beware of the
+tricksome water-works upon this terrace.
+
+Beyond the courtyard is the entrance to the larger garden, which may be
+reached in a carriage by those who do not wish to visit the palace on
+the way, by driving round through the courts at the back of St. Peter's.
+Formerly it was always open till 2 P.M., after which hour the pope went
+there to walk, or to ride upon his white mule. It is a most delightful
+retreat for the hot days of May and June, and before that time its woods
+are carpeted with wild violets and anemones. No one who has not visited
+them can form any idea of the beauty of these ancient groves,
+interspersed with fountains and statues, but otherwise left to nature,
+and forming a fragment of sylvan scenery quite unassociated with the
+English idea of a garden. They are backed by the walls of the Borgo, and
+a fine old tower of the time of Leo IV. The _Casino del Papa_, or Villa
+Pia,[351] built by Pius IV. in the lower and more cultivated portion of
+the ground, is the chef-d'oeuvre of the architect, Pirro Ligorio, and
+is decorated with paintings by _Baroccio_, _Zucchero_, and _Santi di
+Tito_, and a set of terra-cotta reliefs collected by Agincourt and
+Canova. The shell decorations are pretty and curious.
+
+During the hours which he spent daily in this villa, its founder Pius
+IV. enjoyed that easy and simple life for which he was far better fitted
+by nature than for the affairs of government; but here also he received
+the counsels of his nephew S. Carlo Borromeo, who, summoned to Rome in
+1560, became for several succeeding years the real ruler of the state.
+Here he assembled around him all those who were distinguished by their
+virtue or talents, and held many of the meetings which received the
+name of _Notte Vaticane_--at first employed in the pursuit of philosophy
+and poetry, but--after the necessity of Church reform became apparent
+both to the pope and to S. Carlo--entirely devoted to the discussion of
+sacred subjects. In this villa the late popes, Pius VIII. and Gregory
+XVI., used frequently to give their audiences.
+
+The sixteenth century was the golden age for the Vatican. Then the
+splendid court of Leo X. was the centre of artistic and literary life,
+and the witty and pleasure-loving pope made these gardens the scene of
+his banquets and concerts; and, in a circle to which ladies were
+admitted, as in a secular court, listened to the recitations of the
+poets who sprang up under his protection, beneath the shadow of its
+woods.
+
+     "Le Vatican était encombré, sous Leon X., d'historiens, de savants,
+     de poëtes surtout. 'La tourbe importune des poëtes,' s'écrie
+     Valérianus, 'le poursuit de porte en porte, tantôt sous les
+     portiques, tantôt à la promenade, tantôt au palais, tantôt à la
+     chambre, _penetralibus in imis_; elle ne respecte ni son repos, ni
+     les graves affaires qui l'occupent aujourd'hui que l'incendie
+     ravage le monde.' On remarquait dans cette foule: Berni, le poëte
+     burlesque; Flaminio, le poëte élégiaque; Molza, l'enfant de
+     Pétrarque, et Postumo, Maroni, Carteromachus, Fedra Inghirami, le
+     savant bibliothécaire, et _la grande lumière d'Arezzo_, comme dit
+     l'Arioste, _l'unique Accolti_. Accolti jouit pendant toute la durée
+     du seizième siècle d'une réputation que la postérité n'a pas
+     confirmée. On l'appelait le _céleste_. Lorsqu'il devait réciter ses
+     vers, les magasins étaient fermés comme en un jour de fête, et
+     chacun accourait pour l'entendre. Il était entouré de prélats de la
+     première distinction; un corps de troupes suisses l'accompagnait,
+     et l'auditoire était éclairé par des flambeaux. Un jour qu'Accolti
+     entrait chez le pape:--Ouvrez toutes les portes, s'écria Léon, et
+     laissez entrer la foule. Accolti récita un _ternale_ à la Vierge,
+     et, quand il eut fini, mille acclamations retentirent: _Vive le
+     poëte divin, vive l'incomparable Accolti!_ Léon était le premier à
+     applaudir, et le duché de Nessi devenait la récompense du poëte.
+
+     "Une autre fois, c'était Paul Jove, l'homme aux _ouï-dires_, comme
+     l'appelle Rabelais, qui venait lire des fragments de son histoire,
+     et que Léon X. saluait du titre de Tite-Live italien. Il y avait
+     dans ces éloges, dans ces encouragements donnés avec entraînement,
+     mais avec tact, je ne sais quel souffle de vie pour l'intelligence,
+     qui l'activait et qui lui faisait rendre au centuple les dons
+     qu'elle avait reçus du ciel. Rome entière était devenue un musée,
+     une académie; partout des chants, partout la science, la poésie,
+     les beaux-arts, une sorte de volupté dans l'étude. Ici, c'est
+     Calcagnini, qui a déjà déviné la rotation de la terre; là, Ambrogio
+     de Pise, qui parle chaldéen et arabe; plus loin, Valérianus, que la
+     philologie, l'archéologie, la jurisprudence revendiquent à la fois,
+     et qui se distrait de ses doctes travaux par des poésies dignes
+     d'Horace."--_Gournerie, Rome Chrétienne_, ii. 114.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The _Loggie of Raphael_ are reached, except on Mondays, by the staircase
+on the left of the fountain in the Cortile S. Damaso. Two sides of the
+corridors on the second floor (formerly open) are decorated in stucco by
+_Marco da Faenza_ and _Paul Schnorr_ and painted by _Sicciolante da
+Sermoneta_, _Tempesta_, _Sabbatini_, and others. The third corridor,
+entered on the right (opened by a custode), contains the celebrated
+frescoes, executed by Raphael, or from the designs of Raphael, by Giulio
+Romano, Pierino del Vaga, Pellegrino da Modena, Francesco Penni, and
+Rafaello da Colle. Of the fifty-two subjects represented, forty-eight
+are from the Old Testament, only the four last being from the Gospel
+History, as an appropriate introduction to the pictures which celebrate
+the foundation and triumphs of the Church, in the adjoining stanze. The
+stucco decorations of the gallery are of exquisite beauty; especially
+remarkable, perhaps, are those of the windows in the first arcade, where
+Raphael is represented drawing,--his pupils working from his
+designs,--and Fame celebrating his work. The frescoes are arranged in
+the following order:
+
+_1st Arcade._
+
+    1. Creation of Light.[352]      }
+    2. Creation of Dry Land.        }
+    3. Creation of the Sun and Moon.} _Raphael._
+    4. Creation of Animals.         }
+
+_2nd Arcade._
+
+    1. Creation of Eve.   _Raphael._
+    2. The Fall.                   }
+    3. The Exile from Eden.        } _Giulio Romano._
+    4. The Consequence of the Fall.}
+
+_3rd Arcade._
+
+    1. Noah builds the Ark.          }
+    2. The Deluge.                   }
+    3. The Coming forth from the Ark.} _Giulio Romano._
+    4. The Sacrifice of Noah.        }
+
+_4th Arcade._
+
+    1. Abraham and Melchizedek.         }
+    2. The Covenant of God with Abraham.}
+    3. Abraham and the three Angels.    } _Francesco Penni._
+    4. Lot's flight from Sodom.         }
+
+_5th Arcade._
+
+    1. God appears to Isaac.             }
+    2. Abimelech sees Isaac with Rebecca.}
+    3. Isaac gives Jacob the blessing.   } _Francesco Penni._
+    4. Isaac blesses Esau also.          }
+
+_6th Arcade._
+
+    1. Jacob's Ladder.      }
+    2. Jacob meets Rachel.  } _Pellegrino da Modena._
+    3. Jacob upbraids Laban.}
+    4. The journey of Jacob.}
+
+_7th Arcade._
+
+    1. Joseph tells his dream.           }
+    2. Joseph sold into Egypt.           }
+    3. Joseph and Potiphar's wife.       } _Giulio Romano._
+    4. Joseph interprets Pharaoh's dream.}
+
+_8th Arcade._
+
+    1. The Finding of Moses.      }
+    2. Moses and the Burning Bush.}
+    3. The Destruction of Pharaoh.} _Giulio Romano._
+    4. Moses striking the rock.   }
+
+_9th Arcade._
+
+    1. Moses receives the Tables of the Law.   }
+    2. The Worship of the Golden Calf.         } _Raffaello da Colle._
+    3. Moses breaks the Tables.                }
+    4. Moses kneels before the Pillar of Cloud.}
+
+_10th Arcade._
+
+    1. The Israelites cross the Jordan.            }
+    2. The Fall of Jericho.                        }
+    3. Joshua stays the course of the Sun.         } _Pierino del Vaga._
+    4. Joshua and Eleazer divide the Promised Land.}
+
+_11th Arcade._
+
+    1. Samuel anoints David.}
+    2. David and Goliath.   }
+    3. The Triumph of David.} _Pierino del Vaga._
+    4. David sees Bathsheba.}
+
+_12th Arcade._
+
+    1. Zadok anoints Solomon.           }
+    2. The Judgment of Solomon.         } _Pellegrino da Modena._
+    3. The Coming of the Queen of Sheba.}
+    4. The Building of the Temple.      }
+
+_13th Arcade._
+
+    1. The Adoration of the Shepherds.}
+    2. The Coming of the Magi.        }
+    3. The Baptism of Christ.         } _Giulio Romano._
+    4. The Last Supper.               }
+
+     "From the Sistine Chapel we went to Raphael's Loggie, and I hardly
+     venture to say that we could scarcely bear to look at them. The eye
+     was so educated and so enlarged by those grand forms and the
+     glorious completeness of all their parts, that it could take no
+     pleasure in the imaginative play of arabesques, and the scenes from
+     Scripture, beautiful as they are, had lost their charm. To see
+     these works _often_ alternately and to compare them at leisure and
+     without prejudice, must be a great pleasure, but all sympathy is at
+     first one-sided."--_Goethe, Romische Briefe._
+
+Close to the entrance of the Loggie is that of
+
+_The Stanze_, three rooms decorated under Julius II. and Leo X. with
+frescoes by Raphael, for each of which he received 1200 ducats. These
+rooms are approached through,--
+
+The _Sala di Constantino_, decorated under Clement VII. (Giulio di
+Medici) in 1523--34, after the death of Raphael, who however had
+prepared drawings for the frescoes, and had already executed in oil the
+two figures of Justice and Urbanity. The rest of the compositions,
+completed by his pupils, are in fresco.
+
+     "Raphaël se multiplie, il se prodigue, avec une fécondité de toutes
+     les heures. De jeunes disciples, admirateurs de son beau génie, le
+     servent avec amour, et sont déjà admis à l'honneur d'attacher leurs
+     noms à quelques parties de ses magnifiques travaux. Le maître leur
+     distribue leur tâche: à Jules Romain, le brillant coloris des
+     vêtements et peut-*être même le dessin de quelques figures; au
+     Fattore, à Jean d'Udine, les arabesques; à frère Jean de Vérone les
+     clairs-obscurs des portes et des lambris qui doivent compléter la
+     décoration de ces spendides appartements. Et lui, que se
+     réserve-t-il?--la pensée qui anime tout, le génie qui enfante et
+     qui dirige."--_Gournerie, Rome Chrétienne._
+
+     _Entrance Wall._--The Address of Constantine to his troops and the
+     vision of the Fiery Cross: _Giulio Romano_. On the left, St Peter
+     between the Church and Eternity,--on the right, Clement I. (the
+     martyr) between Moderation and Gentleness.
+
+     _Right Wall._--The Battle of the Ponte Molle and the Defeat of
+     Maxentius by Constantine, designed by Raphael, and executed by
+     _Giulio Romano_. On the left is Sylvester I. between Faith and
+     Religion, on the right Urban I. (the friend of Cecilia) between
+     Justice and Charity.
+
+     _Left Wall._--The donation of Rome by Constantine to Sylvester I.
+     (A.D. 325), _Raffaello da Colle_. (The head of Sylvester was a
+     portrait of Clement VII., the reigning pope; Count Castiglione the
+     friend of Raphael, and Giulio Romano, are introduced amongst the
+     attendants.) On the left, Sylvester I. with Fortitude; on the
+     right, Gregory VII. with Strength. _Wall of Egress._--The
+     supposititious Baptism of Constantine, interesting as pourtraying
+     the interior of the Lateran baptistery in the 15th century, by
+     _Francesco Penni_, who has introduced his own portrait in a black
+     dress and velvet cap. On left, is Damasus I. (A.D. 366--384),
+     between Prudence and Peace; on right, Leo I. (A.D. 440--462),
+     between Innocence and Truth. The paintings on the socles represent
+     scenes in the life of Constantine by _Giulio Romano_.
+
+The _Stanza d'Eliodoro_, painted in 1511--1514, shows the Church
+triumphant over her enemies, and the miracles by which its power has
+been attested. On the roof are four subjects from the Old
+Testament,--the Covenant with Abraham; the Sacrifice of Isaac; Jacob's
+dream; Moses at the burning bush.
+
+     _Entrance Wall._--Heliodorus driven out of the Temple (Maccabees
+     iii.). In the background Onias the priest is represented praying
+     for divine interposition;--in the foreground Heliodorus, pursued by
+     two avenging angels, is endeavouring to bear away the treasures of
+     the Temple. Amid the group on the left is seen Julius II. in his
+     chair of state, attended by his secretaries. One of the bearers in
+     front is Marc-Antonio Raimondi, the engraver of Raphael's designs.
+     The man with the inscription, 'Jo. Petro de Folicariis Cremonen,'
+     was secretary of briefs to Pope Julius.
+
+     "Here you may almost fancy you hear the thundering approach of the
+     heavenly warrior and the neighing of his steed; while in the
+     different groups who are plundering the treasures of the Temple,
+     and in those who gaze intently on the sudden consternation of
+     Heliodorus, without being able to divine its cause, we see the
+     expression of terror, amazement, joy, humility, and every passion
+     to which human nature is exposed."--_Lanzi._
+
+     _Left Wall._--The Miracle of Bolsena. A priest at Bolsena, who
+     refused to believe in the doctrine of transubstantiation, is
+     convinced by the bleeding of the host. On the right kneels Julius
+     II., with Cardinal Riario, founder of the Cancelleria. This was the
+     last fresco executed by Raphael under Julius II.
+
+     _Right Wall._--Peter delivered from prison. A fresco by Pietro
+     della Francesca was destroyed to make room for this picture, which
+     is said to have allusion to the liberation of Leo X., while Legate
+     in Spain, after his capture at the battle of Ravenna. This fresco
+     is considered especially remarkable for its four lights, those from
+     the double representation of the angel, from the torch of the
+     soldier, and from the moon.
+
+     _Wall of Egress._--The Flight of Attila. Leo I. (with the features
+     of Leo X.) is represented on his white mule, with his cardinals,
+     calling upon SS. Peter and Paul, who appear in the clouds, for aid
+     against Attila. The Coliseum is seen in the background.
+
+The _Stanza della Segnatura_ is so called from a judicial assembly once
+held here. The frescoes in this chamber are illustrative of the Virtues
+of Theology, Philosophy, Poetry, and Jurisprudence, who are represented
+on the ceiling by _Raphael_, in the midst of arabesques by _Sodoma_. The
+square pictures by Raphael refer:--the Fall of Man to Theology; the
+Study of the Globe to Philosophy; the Flaying of Marsyas to Poetry; and
+the Judgment of Solomon to Jurisprudence.
+
+     _Entrance Wall._--"The School of Athens." Raphael consulted Ariosto
+     as to the arrangement of its 52 figures. In the centre, on the
+     steps of a portico, are seen Plato and Aristotle, Plato pointing to
+     heaven, and Aristotle to earth. On the left is Socrates conversing
+     with his pupils, amongst whom is a young warrior, probably
+     Alcibiades. Lying upon the steps in front is Diogenes. To his left
+     Pythagoras is writing on his knee, and near him, with ink and pen,
+     is Empedocles. The youth in the white mantle is Francesco Maria
+     della Rovere, nephew of Julius II. On the right, is Archimedes,
+     drawing a geometrical problem upon the floor. The young man near
+     him with uplifted hands is Federigo II., Duke of Mantua. Behind
+     these are Zoroaster and Ptolemy, one with a terrestrial, the other
+     with a celestial globe, addressing two figures which represent
+     Raphael and his master Perugino. The drawing in brown upon the
+     socle beneath this fresco, is by _Pierino del Vaga_, and represents
+     the death of Archimedes.
+
+     _Right Wall._--"Parnassus," Apollo surrounded by the Muses, on his
+     right Homer, Virgil, and Dante. Below, on the right, Sappho,
+     supposed to be addressing Corinna, Petrarch, Propertius, and
+     Anacreon; on the left, Pindar and Horace, Sannazzaro, Boccaccio,
+     and others. Beneath this, in grisaille, are,--Alexander placing the
+     poems of Homer in the tomb of Achilles,--and Augustus preventing
+     the burning of Virgil's Eneid.
+
+     _Left Wall._--Above the window are Prudence, Fortitude, and
+     Temperance. On the left, Justinian delivers the Pandects to
+     Tribonian. On the right, Gregory IX. (with the features of Julius
+     II.) delivers the Decretals to a jurist;--Cardinal de' Medici,
+     afterwards Leo X., Cardinal Farnese, afterwards Paul III., and
+     Cardinal del Monte, are represented near the pope. In the socle
+     beneath is Solon addressing the people of Athens.
+
+     _Wall of Egress_.--"The Disputa," so called from an impression that
+     it represents a Dispute upon the Sacrament. In the upper part of
+     the composition the heavenly host are present;--Christ between the
+     Virgin and St. John Baptist;--On the left, St. Peter, Adam, St.
+     John, David, St. Stephen, and another;--On the right, St. Paul,
+     Abraham, St. James, Moses, St. Laurence, and St. George. Below is
+     an altar surrounded by the Latin fathers, Gregory, Jerome, Ambrose,
+     and Augustine. Near St. Augustine stand St. Thomas Aquinas, St.
+     Anacletus with the palm of a martyr, and Cardinal Buonaventura
+     reading. Those in front are Innocent III., and in the background
+     Dante, near whom a monk in a black hood is pointed out as
+     Savonarola. The Dominican on the extreme left is supposed to be Fra
+     Angelico. The other figures are uncertain.
+
+     "Raphaël a bien jugé Dante en plaçant parmi les Théologiens, dans
+     la _Dispute du Saint Sacrement_, celui pour la tombe duquel a été
+     écrit ce vers, aussi vrai qu'il est plat:
+
+    'Theologus Dantes, nullius dogmatis expers.'"
+
+    _Ampère, Voyage Dantesque._
+
+     The chiaro-scuros on the socle beneath this fresco are by _Pierino
+     del Vaga_ (added under Paul III.) and represent, 1, A heathen
+     sacrifice; 2, St. Augustine finding a child attempting to drain the
+     sea; 3, The Cumæ Sibyl and Augustus.
+
+     "Raphael commenced his work in the Vatican by painting the ceiling
+     and the four walls of the room called _della Segnatura_, on the
+     surface of which he had to represent four great compositions, which
+     embraced the principal divisions of the encyclopædia of that
+     period; namely, Theology, Philosophy, Poetry, and Jurisprudence.
+
+     "It will be conceived, that to an artist imbued with the traditions
+     of the Umbrian school, the first of these subjects was an
+     unparalleled piece of good fortune; and Raphael, long familiar with
+     the allegorical treatment of religious compositions, turned it here
+     to the most admirable account; and, not content with the
+     suggestions of his own genius, he availed himself of all the
+     instruction he could derive from the intelligence of others. From
+     these combined inspirations resulted, to the eternal glory of the
+     Catholic faith and of Christian art, a composition without a rival
+     in the history of painting, and we may also add without a name; for
+     to call it lyric or epic is not enough, unless, indeed, we mean, by
+     using these expressions, to compare it with the allegorical epic
+     of Dante, alone worthy to be ranked with this marvellous
+     production of the pencil of Raphael.
+
+     "And let no one consider this praise as idle and groundless, for it
+     is Raphael himself who forces the comparison upon us, by placing
+     the figure of Dante among the favourite sons of the Muses; and,
+     what is still more striking, by draping the allegorical figure of
+     Theology in the very colours in which Dante has represented
+     Beatrice; namely, the white veil, the red tunic, and the green
+     mantle, while on her head he has placed the olive crown.
+
+     "Of the four allegorical figures which occupy the compartments of
+     the ceiling, and which were all painted immediately after Raphael's
+     arrival in Rome, Theology and Poetry are incontestably the most
+     remarkable. The latter would be easily distinguished by the calm
+     inspiration of her glance, even were she without her wings, her
+     starry crown, and her azure robe, all having allusion to the
+     elevated region towards which it is her privilege to soar. The
+     figure of Theology is quite as admirably suited to the subject she
+     personifies; she points to the upper part of the grand composition,
+     which takes its name from her, and in which the artist has provided
+     inexhaustible food for the sagacity and enthusiasm of the
+     spectator.
+
+     "This work consists of two grand divisions,--Heaven and
+     Earth,--which are united to one another by that mystical bond, the
+     Sacrament of the Eucharist. The personages whom the Church has most
+     honoured for learning and holiness are ranged in picturesque and
+     animated groups on either side of the altar, on which the
+     consecrated wafer is exposed. St. Augustine dictates his thoughts
+     to one of his disciples; St. Gregory, in his pontifical robes,
+     seems absorbed in the contemplation of celestial glory; St.
+     Ambrose, in a slightly different attitude, appears to be chaunting
+     the Te Deum; while St. Jerome, seated, rests his hands on a large
+     book, which he holds on his knees. Pietro Lombardo, Duns Scotus,
+     St. Thomas Aquinas, Pope Anacletus, St. Buonaventura, and Innocent
+     III. are no less happily characterised; while, behind all these
+     illustrious men, whom the Church and succeeding generations have
+     agreed to honour, Raphael has ventured to introduce Dante with his
+     laurel crown, and, with still greater boldness, the monk
+     Savonarola, publicly burnt ten years before as a heretic.
+
+     "In the glory, which forms the upper part of the picture, the Three
+     Persons of the Trinity are represented, surrounded by patriarchs,
+     apostles, and saints: it may, in fact, be considered in some sort
+     as a _resumé_ of all the favourite compositions produced during the
+     last hundred years by the Umbrian school. A great number of the
+     types, and particularly those of Christ and the Virgin, are to be
+     found in the earlier works of Raphael himself. The Umbrian
+     artists, from having so long exclusively employed themselves on
+     mystical subjects, had certainly attained to a marvellous
+     perfection in the representation of celestial beatitude, and of
+     those ineffable things of which it has been said that the heart of
+     man cannot conceive them, far less, therefore, the pencil of man
+     pourtray; and Raphael, surpassing them in all, and even in this
+     instance while surpassing himself, appears to have fixed the
+     limits, beyond which Christian art, properly so called, has never
+     since been able to advance."--_Rio. Poetry of Christian Art._
+
+The _Stanza of the Incendio del Borgo_ is decorated with frescoes
+illustrative of the triumphs of the Church from events in the reigns of
+Leo III. and Leo IV. The roof has four frescoes by _Perugino_
+illustrative of the Saviour in glory.
+
+     _Entrance Wall._--The Victory of Leo IV. over the Saracens at
+     Ostia, by _Giovanni da Udine_, from designs of Raphael. The pope is
+     represented with the features of Leo X.; behind him are Cardinal
+     Giulio de' Medici (Clement VII.), Cardinal Bibbiena, and others.
+     The castle of Ostia is seen in the background. Beneath are
+     Ferdinand the Catholic and the Emperor Lothaire, by _Polidoro da
+     Caravaggio_.
+
+     _Left Wall._--The "Incendio del Borgo," a fire in the Leonine City
+     in 847. In the background Leo IV. is seen in the portico of the old
+     St. Peter's arresting with a cross the progress of the flames, on
+     their approach to the basilica. In the foreground is a group of
+     fugitives, by _Giulio Romano_, resembling Æneas escaping from Troy
+     with Anchises, followed by Ascanius and Creusa. Beneath are Godfrey
+     de Bouillon and Astulf (Ethelwolf), the latter with the
+     inscription: "Astulphus Rex sub Leone IV. Pont. Britanniam Beato
+     Petro vectigalem fecit."
+
+     _Right Wall._--The Justification of Leo III. before Charlemagne, by
+     _Pierino del Vaga_. The pope is a portrait of Leo X., the emperor
+     of Francis I.
+
+     _Wall of Egress._--The Coronation of Charlemagne in the old St.
+     Peter's. Leo X. is again represented as Leo III., and Francis I. as
+     Charlemagne. This fresco is partly by _Raphael_, partly by _Pierino
+     del Vaga_. On the socle is Charlemagne, by _Polidoro da
+     Caravaggio_.
+
+_A Fifth Chamber_ has been decorated under Pius IX. with frescoes by
+_Fracassini_, in honour of the recent dogma of the Immaculate
+Conception. The Proclamation of the Dogma; the Adoration of the image
+of the Virgin; and the Reception of the news by the Virgin in heaven,
+from an angelic messenger, are duly represented!
+
+From the corner of the Sala del Constantino, a custode, if requested,
+will give access to the
+
+_Cappella di San Lorenzo_, a tiny chapel covered with frescoes executed
+by Fra Angelico for Nicholas V. in 1447. The upper series represents
+events in the life of St. Stephen.
+
+     1. His Ordination by St. Peter.
+     2. His Almsgiving.
+     4. He is brought before the Council at Jerusalem ("his accuser has the
+        dress and shaven crown of a monk").
+     5. He is dragged to Execution.
+     6. He is Stoned. Saul is among the spectators.
+
+     "Angelico has represented St. Stephen as a young man, beardless,
+     and with a most mild and candid expression. His dress is the
+     deacon's habit, of a vivid blue."--_Mrs. Jameson._
+
+The lower series represents the life of St Laurence.
+
+     1. He is ordained by Sixtus II. (with the features of Nicholas V.).
+     2. Sixtus II. delivers the treasures of the Church to him for
+        distribution among the poor.
+     3. He Distributes them in Alms.
+     4. He is carried before Decius the Prefect.
+     5. He suffers  Martyrdom A.D. 253.
+
+Introduced in the side arches, are the figures of St. Jerome, St.
+Ambrose, St. Augustine, St. Gregory, St. John Chrysostom, St.
+Athanasius, St. Leo--as the protector of Rome, and St. Thomas
+Aquinas--as painted by the Dominican Angelico, and for a Dominican pope
+Nicholas V.
+
+     "The Consecration of St. Stephen, the Distribution of Alms, and,
+     above all, his Preaching, are three pictures as perfect of their
+     kind as any that have been produced by the greatest masters, and it
+     would be difficult to imagine a group more happily conceived as to
+     arrangement, or more graceful in form and attitude, than that of
+     the seated females listening to the holy preacher; and if the
+     furious fanaticism of the executioners, who stone him to death, is
+     not expressed with all the energy we could desire, this may be
+     attributed to a glorious incapacity in this angelic imagination,
+     too exclusively occupied with love and ecstasy to be ever able to
+     familiarise itself with those dramatic scenes in which hateful and
+     violent passions were to be represented."--_Rio. Poetry of
+     Christian Art._
+
+     "The soul of Angelico lives in perpetual peace. Not seclusion from
+     the world. No shutting out of the world is needful for him. There
+     is nothing to shut out. Envy, lust, contention, discourtesy, are to
+     him as though they were not; and the cloister walls of Fiesole no
+     penitential solitude, barred from the stir and joy of life, but a
+     possessed land of tender blessing, guarded from the entrance of all
+     but holiest sorrow. The little cell was as one of the houses of
+     heaven prepared for him by his Master. What need had it to be
+     elsewhere? Was not the Val d'Arno, with its olive woods in white
+     blossom, paradise enough for a poor monk? Or could Christ be indeed
+     in heaven more than here? Was He not always with him? Could he
+     breathe or see, but that Christ breathed beside him, or looked into
+     his eyes? Under every cypress avenue the angels walked; he had seen
+     their white robes,--whiter than the dawn,--at his bedside, as he
+     woke in early summer. They had sung with him, one on each side,
+     when his voice failed for joy at sweet vesper and matin time; his
+     eyes were blinded by their wings in the sunset, when it sank behind
+     the hills of Luni."--_Ruskin's Modern Painters._
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The same staircase which is usually ascended to reach the Stanze (that
+on the left of the fountain in the Cortile S. Damaso) will also lead, by
+turning to the left in the loggia of the third floor, to:
+
+_The Gallery of Pictures_, founded by Pius VII., who acted on the advice
+of Cardinal Gonsalvi and of Canova, and formed the present collection
+from the pictures which had been carried off by the French from the
+Roman churches, upon their restoration. The pictures have, to a great
+extent, been recently rearranged and are not all numbered. Each picture
+is worthy of separate examination. They are contained in four rooms, and
+according to their present position are:
+
+_1st Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     1. St. Jerome: _Leonardo da Vinci_, painted in bistre.
+
+     16. St. John Baptist: _Guercino_.
+
+     4. The Annunciation, Adoration of the Magi, and Presentation in the
+     Temple: _Raphael_;--formerly a predella to the Coronation of the
+     Virgin in the third room.
+
+     5. The dead Christ and Mary Magdalen: _Andrea Mantegna_,--from the
+     Aldrovandi gallery at Bologna.
+
+     7. Madonna with the Child and St. John: _Fr. Francia._
+
+     RIGHT WALL:
+
+     The Story of St. Nicolo of Bari: _Fra Angelico da Fiesole_,--two
+     out of the three predella pictures once in the sacristy of S.
+     Domenico at Florence, whence they were carried off to Paris, where
+     the third remains.
+
+     (Above,) The Adoration of the Shepherds: _Murillo._
+
+     The Virgin surrounded by Angels: _Fra Angelico._
+
+     3. The Story of St. Hyacinth: _Benozzo Gozzoli._
+
+     (Above,) The Marriage of St. Catherine: _Murillo._
+
+     2. "I Tre Santi:" _Perugino._
+
+     Part of a large predella in the church of S. Pietro Casinensi at
+     Perugia. Several saints from this predella still remain in the
+     sacristy of S. Pietro; two are at Lyons.
+
+     "In the centre is St. Benedict, with his black cowl over his head
+     and long parted beard, the book in one hand, and the asperge in the
+     other. On one side, St. Placidus, young, and with a mild, candid
+     expression, black habit and shaven crown. On the other side is St.
+     Flavia (or St. Catherine?), crowned as a martyr, holding her palm,
+     and gazing upward with a divine expression."--_Mrs. Jameson._
+
+     (Above this) The Holy Family and Saints: _Bonifasio_.
+
+     _Left Wall._--The Dead Christ, with the Virgin, St. John, and the
+     Magdalen lamenting: _Carlo Crivelli_.
+
+     _Wall of Egress._--Faith, Hope, and Charity, _Raphael_:--circular
+     medallions in bistre, which once formed a predella for "the
+     Entombment" in the Borghese gallery.
+
+
+_2nd Room._--
+
+     _Entrance Wall._--The Communion of St. Jerome: _Domenichino_. This
+     is the master-piece of the master, and perhaps second only to the
+     Transfiguration. It was painted for the monks of Ara Coeli, who
+     quarrelled with the artist, and shut up the picture. Afterwards
+     they commissioned Poussin to paint an altar-piece for their church,
+     and, instead of supplying him with fresh canvas, produced the
+     picture of Domenichino, and desired him to paint over it. Poussin
+     indignantly threw up his engagement, and made known the existence
+     of the picture, which was afterwards preserved in the church of S.
+     Girolamo della Carità, whence it was carried off by the French. St.
+     Jerome, dying at Bethlehem, is represented receiving the Last
+     Sacraments from St. Ephraim of Syria, while St. Paula kneels by his
+     side.
+
+     "The Last Communion of St. Jerome is the subject of one of the most
+     celebrated pictures in the world,--the St. Jerome of Domenichino,
+     which has been thought worthy of being placed opposite to the
+     Transfiguration of Raphael, in the Vatican. The aged
+     saint,--feeble, emaciated, dying,--is borne in the arms of his
+     disciples to the chapel of his monastery, and placed within the
+     porch.[353] A young priest sustains him; St. Paula, kneeling,
+     kisses one of his thin bony hands; the saint fixes his eager eyes
+     on the countenance of the priest, who is about to administer the
+     Sacrament,--a noble, dignified figure in a rich ecclesiastical
+     dress; a deacon holds the cup, and an attendant priest the book;
+     the lion droops his head with an expression of grief;[354] the eyes
+     and attention of all are on the dying saint, while four angels,
+     hovering above, look down upon the scene."--_Jameson's Sacred Art._
+
+     "And Jerome's death (A.D. 420) drawing near, he commanded that he
+     should be laid on the bare ground and covered with sackcloth, and
+     calling the brethren around him, he spake sweetly to them, and
+     exhorted them in many holy words, and appointed Eusebius to be
+     their abbot in his room. And then, with tears, he received the
+     blessed Eucharist, and sinking backwards again on the earth, his
+     hands crossed on his heart, he sung the 'Nunc Dimittis,' which
+     being finished, it being the hour of compline, suddenly a great
+     light, as of the noonday sun, shone round about him, within which
+     light angels innumerable were seen by the bystanders, in shifting
+     motion, like sparks among the dry reeds. And the voice of the
+     Saviour was heard, inviting him to heaven, and the holy Doctor
+     answered that he was ready. And after an hour, that light departed,
+     and Jerome's spirit with it."--_Lord Lindsay, from Peter de
+     Natalibus._
+
+     _Right Wall._--"The Madonna di Foligno," _Raphael_, ordered in 1511
+     by Sigismondo Conti for the church of Ara Coeli (where he is
+     buried), and removed in 1565 to Foligno, when his great-niece, Anna
+     Conti, took the veil there at the convent of St' Anna. The angel in
+     the foreground bears a tablet, with the names of the painter and
+     donor, and the date 1512. The city of Foligno is seen in the
+     background, with a falling bomb, from which one may believe that
+     the picture was a votive offering from Sigismondo for an escape
+     during a siege. The picture was originally on panel, and was
+     transferred to canvas at Paris.
+
+     "The Madonna di Foligno, however beautiful in the whole
+     arrangement, however excellent in the execution of separate parts,
+     appears to belong to a transition state of development. There is
+     something of the ecstatic enthusiasm which has produced such
+     peculiar conceptions and treatment of religious subjects in other
+     artists--Correggio, for example--and which, so far from harmonizing
+     with the unaffected serene grace of Raphael, has in this instance
+     led to some serious defects. This remark is particularly applicable
+     to the figures of St. John and St. Francis: the former looks out of
+     the picture with a fantastic action, and the drawing of his arm is
+     even considerably mannered. St. Francis has an expression of
+     fanatical ecstasy, and his countenance is strikingly weak in the
+     painting (composed of reddish, yellowish, and grey tones, which
+     cannot be wholly ascribed to their restorer). Again, St. Jerome
+     looks up with a sort of fretful expression, in which it is
+     difficult to recognise, as some do, a mournful resignation; there
+     is also an exaggerated style of drawing in the eyes, which
+     sometimes gives a sharpness to the expression of Raphael's figures,
+     and appears very marked in some of his other pictures. Lastly, the
+     Madonna and the Child, who turn to the donor, are in attitudes
+     which, however graceful, are not perhaps sufficiently tranquil for
+     the majesty of the queen of heaven. The expression of the Madonna's
+     countenance is extremely sweet, but with more of the character of a
+     mere woman than of a glorified being. The figure of the donor, on
+     the other hand, is excellent, with an expression of sincerity and
+     truth; the angel with the tablet is of unspeakable intensity and
+     exquisite beauty--one of the most marvellous figures that Raphael
+     has created."--_Kugler._
+
+     "In the upper part of the composition sits the Virgin in heavenly
+     glory; by her side is the Infant Christ, partly sustained by his
+     mother's veil, which is drawn round his body: both look down
+     benignly on the votary, Sigismund Conti, who, kneeling below, gazes
+     up with an expression of the most intense gratitude and devotion.
+     It is a portrait from the life, and certainly one of the finest and
+     most life-like that exist in painting. Behind him stands St.
+     Jerome, who, placing his hand upon the head of the votary, seems to
+     present him to his celestial protectress. On the other side, John
+     the Baptist, the meagre wild-looking prophet of the desert, points
+     upward to the Redeemer. More in front kneels St. Francis, who,
+     while he looks up to heaven with trusting and imploring love,
+     extends his right hand towards the worshippers supposed to be
+     assembled in the church, recommending them also to the protecting
+     grace of the Virgin. In the centre of the picture, dividing these
+     two groups, stands a lovely angel-boy, holding in his hand a
+     tablet, one of the most charming figures of this kind Raphael ever
+     painted; the head, looking up, has that sublime, yet perfectly
+     childish grace, which strikes one in those awful angel-boys in the
+     'Madonna di San Sisto.' The background is a landscape, in which
+     appears the city of Foligno at a distance; it is overshadowed by a
+     storm-cloud, and a meteor is seen falling; but above these bends a
+     rainbow, pledge of peace and safety. The whole picture glows
+     throughout with life and beauty, hallowed by that profound
+     religious sentiment which suggested the offering, and which the
+     sympathetic artist seems to have caught from the grateful donor. It
+     was dedicated in the church of the Ara Coeli at Rome, which
+     belongs to the Franciscans, hence St. Francis is one of the
+     principal figures. When I was asked, at Rome, why St. Jerome had
+     been introduced into the picture, I thought it might be thus
+     accounted for:--The patron saint of the donor, St. Sigismund, was a
+     king and warrior, and Conti might possibly think it did not accord
+     with his profession, as a humble ecclesiastic, to introduce him
+     here. The most celebrated convent of the Jeronymites in Italy is
+     that of St. Sigismund, near Cremona, placed under the special
+     protection of St. Jerome, who is also in a general sense the patron
+     of all ecclesiastics; hence, perhaps, he figures here as the
+     protector of Sigismund Conti."--_Jameson's Legends of the Madonna_,
+     p. 103.
+
+     _Wall of Egress._--"The Transfiguration:" _Raphael_. The grandest
+     picture in the world. It was originally painted by order of
+     Cardinal Giulio de' Medici (afterwards Clement VII.) Archbishop of
+     Narbonne, for that provincial cathedral. But it was scarcely
+     finished when Raphael died, and it hung over his death-bed as he
+     lay in state, and was carried in his funeral procession.
+
+                      "And when all beheld
+    Him where he lay, how changed from yesterday--
+    Him in that hour cut off, and at his head
+    His last great work; when, entering in, they look'd,
+    Now on the dead, then on that masterpiece--
+    Now on his face, lifeless and colourless,
+    Then on those forms divine that lived and breathed,
+    And would live on for ages--all were moved,
+    And sighs burst forth and loudest lamentations."
+
+    _Rogers._
+
+     The three following quotations may perhaps represent the practical,
+     æsthetical, and spiritual aspects of the picture.
+
+     "It is somewhat strange to see the whole picture of the
+     Transfiguration--including the three apostles, prostrate on the
+     mount, shading their dazzled senses from the insufferable
+     brightness--occupying only a small part of the top of the canvas,
+     and the principal field filled with a totally distinct and
+     certainly unequalled picture--that of the demoniac boy, whom our
+     Saviour cured on coming down from the mount, after his
+     transfiguration. This was done in compliance with the _orders_ of
+     the monks of S. Pietro in Montorio, for which church it was
+     painted. It was the universal custom of the age--the yet unbanished
+     taste of Gothic days--to have two pictures, a celestial and a
+     terrestrial one, wholly unconnected with each other; accordingly,
+     we see few, even of the finest paintings, in which there is not a
+     heavenly subject above and an earthly below--for the great masters
+     of that day, like our own Shakspeare, were compelled to suit their
+     works to the taste of their employers."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+     "It must ever be matter of wonder that any one can have doubted of
+     the grand unity of such a conception as this. In the absence of the
+     Lord, the disconsolate parents bring a possessed boy to the
+     disciples of the Holy One. They seem to have been making attempts
+     to cast out the Evil Spirit; one has opened a book, to see whether
+     by chance any spell were contained in it which might be successful
+     against this plague, but in vain. At this moment appears He who
+     alone has the power, and appears transfigured in glory. They
+     remember His former mighty deeds; they instantly point aloft to the
+     vision as the only source of healing. How can the upper and lower
+     parts be separated? Both are one; beneath is Suffering craving for
+     Aid; above is active Power and helpful Grace. Both refer to one
+     another; both work in one another. Those who, in our dispute over
+     the picture, thought with me, confirmed their view by this
+     consideration: Raffaelle, they said, was ever distinguished by the
+     exquisite propriety of his conceptions. And is it likely that this
+     painter, thus gifted by God, and everywhere recognisable by the
+     excellence of this His gift, would in the full ripeness of his
+     powers have thought and painted wrongly? Not so; he is, as nature
+     is, ever right, and then most deeply and truly right when we least
+     suspect it."--_Goethe's Werke_, iii. p. 33.
+
+     "In looking at the Transfiguration we must bear in mind that it is
+     not an historical but a devotional picture,--that the intention of
+     the painter was not to represent a scene, but to excite religious
+     feelings by expressing, so far as painting might do it, a very
+     sublime idea.
+
+     "If we remove to a certain distance from the picture, so that the
+     forms shall become vague, indistinct, and only the masses of colour
+     and the light and shade perfectly distinguishable, we shall see
+     that the picture is indeed divided as if horizontally, the upper
+     half being all light, and the lower half comparatively all dark. As
+     we approach nearer, step by step, we behold above, the radiant
+     figure of the Saviour floating in mid-air, with arms outspread,
+     garments of transparent light, glorified visage upturned as if in
+     rapture, and the hair lifted and scattered as I have seen it in
+     persons under the influence of electricity. On the right, Moses; on
+     the left, Elijah; representing respectively the old Law and the old
+     Prophecies, which both testified of Him. The three disciples lie on
+     the ground, terror-struck, dazzled. There is a sort of eminence or
+     platform, but no perspective, no attempt at real locality, for the
+     scene is revealed as in a vision, and the same soft transparent
+     light envelopes the whole. This is the spiritual life, raised far
+     above the earth, but not yet in heaven. Below is seen the earthly
+     light, poor humanity struggling helplessly with pain, infirmity,
+     and death. The father brings his son, the possessed, or as we
+     should now say, the epileptic boy, who oftentimes falls into the
+     water, or into the fire, or lies grovelling on the earth, foaming
+     and gnashing his teeth; the boy struggles in his arms,--the rolling
+     eyes, the distorted features, the spasmodic limbs, are at once
+     terrible and pitiful to look on.
+
+     "Such is the profound, the heart-moving significance of this
+     wonderful picture. It is, in truth, a fearful approximation of the
+     most opposite things; the mournful helplessness, suffering, and
+     degradation of human nature, the unavailing pity, are placed in
+     immediate contrast with spiritual light, life, hope,--nay, the very
+     fruition of heavenly rapture.
+
+     "It has been asked, who are the two figures, the two saintly
+     deacons, who stand on each side of the upper group, and what have
+     they to do with the mystery above, or the sorrow below? Their
+     presence shows that the whole was conceived as a vision, or a poem.
+     The two saints are St. Laurence and St. Julian, placed there at the
+     request of the Cardinal de' Medici, for whom the picture was
+     painted, to be offered by him as an act of devotion as well as
+     munificence to his new bishopric; and these two figures commemorate
+     in a poetical way, not unusual at the time, his father, Lorenzo,
+     and his uncle, Giuliano de' Medici. They would be better away; but
+     Raphael, in consenting to the wish of his patron that they should
+     be introduced, left no doubt of the significance of the whole
+     composition, that it is placed before worshippers as a revelation
+     of the double life of earthly suffering and spiritual faith, as an
+     excitement to religious contemplation and religious hope.
+
+     "In the Gospel, the Transfiguration of Our Lord is first described,
+     then the gathering of the people and the appeal of the father in
+     behalf of his afflicted son. They appear to have been simultaneous;
+     but painting only could have placed them before our eyes, at the
+     same moment, in all their suggestive contrast. It will be said that
+     in the brief record of the Evangelist, this contrast is nowhere
+     indicated, but the painter found it there and was right to use
+     it,--just the same as if a man should choose a text from which to
+     preach a sermon, and, in doing so, should evolve from the inspired
+     words many teachings, many deep reasonings, besides those most
+     obvious and apparent.
+
+     "But, after we have prepared ourselves to understand and to take
+     into our heads all that this wonderful picture can suggest,
+     considered as an emanation of the mind, we find that it has other
+     interests for us, considered merely as a work of art. It was the
+     last picture which came from Raphael's hand; he was painting on it
+     when he was seized with his last illness. He had completed all the
+     upper part of the composition, all the ethereal vision, but the
+     lower part of it was still unfinished, and in this state the
+     picture was hung over his bier; when, after his death, he was laid
+     out in his painting-room, and all his pupils and friends, and the
+     people of Rome, came to look upon him for the last time; and when
+     those who stood round raised their eyes to the Transfiguration, and
+     then bent them on the lifeless form extended beneath it, 'every
+     heart was like to burst with grief (_faceva scoppiare l'anima di
+     dolore a ognuno che quivi guardava_), as, indeed, well it might.
+
+     "Two-thirds of the price of the picture, 655 'ducati di camera,'
+     had already been paid by the Cardinal de' Medici, and, in the
+     following year, that part of the picture which Raphael had left
+     unfinished was completed by his pupil Giulio Romano, a powerful and
+     gifted, but not a refined or elevated, genius. He supplied what was
+     wanting in the colours and chiaroscuro according to Raphael's
+     design, but not certainly as Raphael himself would have done it.
+     The sum which Giulio received he bestowed as a dowry on his sister,
+     when he gave her in marriage to Lorenzetto the sculptor, who had
+     been a friend and pupil of Raphael. The cardinal did not send the
+     picture to Narbonne, but, unwilling to deprive Rome of such a
+     masterpiece, he presented it to the church of San Pietro in
+     Montorio, and sent in its stead the Raising of Lazarus, by
+     Sebastian del Piombo, now in our National Gallery. The French
+     carried off the Transfiguration to Paris in 1797, and when
+     restored, it was placed in the Vatican, where it now is."--_Mrs.
+     Jameson's History of Our Lord_, vol. i.
+
+
+_3rd Room._--
+
+     _Entrance Wall._--Madonna and Saints: _Titian_.
+
+     "Titian's altar-piece is a specimen of his pictures of this class.
+     St. Nicholas, in full episcopal costume, is gazing upwards with an
+     air of inspiration. St. Peter is looking over his shoulder at a
+     book, and a beautiful St. Catherine is on the other side. Farther
+     behind, are St. Francis and St. Anthony of Padua; on the left St.
+     Sebastian, whose figure recurs in almost all of these pictures.
+     Above, in the clouds, with angels, is the Madonna, who looks
+     cheerfully on, while the lovely Child holds a wreath, as if ready
+     to crown a votary."--_Kugler._
+
+     "In this picture there are three stages, or whatever they are
+     called, the same as in the Transfiguration. Below, saints and
+     martyrs are represented in suffering and abasement; on every face
+     is depicted sadness, nay, almost impatience; one figure in rich
+     episcopal robes looks upwards, with the most eager and agonized
+     longing, as if weeping, but he cannot see all that is floating
+     above his head, but which _we_ see, standing in front of the
+     picture. Above, Mary and her Child are in a cloud, radiant with
+     joy, and surrounded by angels, who have woven many garlands; the
+     Holy Child holds one of these, and seems as if about to crown the
+     saints beneath, but his Mother withholds his hand for the
+     moment(?). The contrast between the pain and suffering below,
+     whence St. Sebastian looks forth out of the picture with gloom and
+     almost apathy, and the lofty unalloyed exultation in the clouds
+     above, where crowns and palms are already awaiting him, is truly
+     admirable. High above the group of Mary hovers the Holy Spirit,
+     from whom emanates a bright streaming light, thus forming the apex
+     of the whole composition. I have just remembered that Goethe, at
+     the beginning of his first visit to Rome, describes and admires
+     this picture; and he speaks of it in considerable detail. It was at
+     that time in the Quirinal."--_Mendelssohn's Letters._
+
+     Sta. Margherita da Cortona: _Guercino_. She is represented
+     kneeling,--angels hovering above,--in the background is the Convent
+     of Cortona.
+
+     RIGHT WALL:
+
+     Martyrdom of St. Laurence: _Spagnoletto_.
+
+     22. The Magdalen, with angels bearing the instruments of the
+     Passion: _Guercino_.
+
+     23. The Coronation of the Virgin: _Pinturicchio_.
+
+     24. The Resurrection: _Perugino_. The figures are sharply relieved
+     against a bright green landscape and a perfectly green sky. The
+     figure of the risen Saviour is in a raised gold nimbus surrounded
+     by cherubs' heads, as in the fresco of Pinturicchio at the Ara
+     Coeli. The escaping soldier is said to be a portrait of Perugino,
+     introduced by Raphael,--the sleeping soldier that of Raphael, by
+     Perugino.
+
+     25. "La Madonna di Monte Luco," designed by Raphael: the upper part
+     painted by _Giulio Romano_, the lower by _Francesco Penni_ (Il
+     Fattore). The apostles looking into the tomb of the Virgin, find it
+     blooming with heartsease and ixias. Above, the Virgin is crowned
+     amid the angels. There is a lovely landscape seen through a dark
+     cave, which ends awkwardly in the black clouds. This picture was
+     painted for the convent of Monte Luco near Spoleto.
+
+     26. The Nativity: _Giovanni Spagna_.
+
+     27. The Coronation of the Virgin: _Raphael_. The predella in the
+     first room belonged to this picture, which was painted for the
+     Benedictines of Perugia.
+
+     28. The Virgin and Child enthroned under an arcade--with S.
+     Lorenzo, St. Louis, S. Ercolano, and S. Costanzo, standing: On the
+     step of the throne is inscribed 'Hoc Petrus de Chastro Plebis
+     Pinxit.'
+
+     29. Virgin and Child: _Sassoferrato_. A fat mundane Infant and a
+     coarse Virgin seated on a crescent moon. The Child holds a rosary.
+
+     END WALL:
+
+     The Entombment: _Caravaggio_.
+
+     "Caravaggio's entombment of Christ is a picture wanting in all the
+     characteristics of holy sublimity; but is nevertheless full of
+     solemnity, only perhaps too like the funeral solemnity of a gipsy
+     chief. A figure of such natural sorrow as the Virgin, who is
+     represented as exhausted with weeping, with her trembling
+     outstretched hands, has seldom been painted. Even as mother of a
+     gipsy chief, she is dignified and touching."--_Kugler._
+
+     LEFT WALL (RETURNING):
+
+     31. Doge A. Gritti (_Titian_), half-length, in a yellow robe.
+
+     Two very large pictures in many compartments, by _Niccolo Alunno_,
+     of the Crucifixion and Saints. (Between them.)
+
+     Sixtus IV. and his Court: _Melozzo da Forlì_. A fresco, removed
+     from the Vatican library by Leo XII., which is a most interesting
+     memorial of an important historical family. Near the figure of the
+     pope, Sixtus IV., who is known to Roman travellers from his
+     magnificent bronze tomb in the Chapel of the Sacrament at St.
+     Peter's, stand two of his nephews, of whom one is Giuliano della
+     Rovere, afterwards Julius II., and the other Pietro Riario, who,
+     from the position of a humble Franciscan monk, was raised, in a few
+     months, by his uncle, to be Bishop of Treviso, Cardinal-Archbishop
+     of Seville, Patriarch of Constantinople, Archbishop of Valentia,
+     and Archbishop of Florence, when his life changed, and he lived
+     with such extravagance, and gave banquets so magnificent, that
+     "never had pagan antiquity seen anything like it;"[355] but within
+     two years "he died (not without suspicion of poison), to the great
+     grief of Pope Sixtus, and to the infinite joy of the whole college
+     of cardinals."[356] The kneeling figure represents Platina, the
+     historian of the popes and prefect of the Vatican library. In the
+     background stand two other nephews of the pope, Cardinal Giovanni
+     della Rovere, and Girolamo Riario, who was married by his uncle (or
+     father?), the pope, to the famous Caterina Sforza,--was suspected
+     of being the originator of the conspiracy of the Pazzi,--was
+     created Count of Forlì, and to whose aggrandisement Sixtus IV.
+     sacrificed every principle of morality and justice: he was murdered
+     at Forli, April 14th, 1488. Beneath is inscribed:
+
+    "Templa domum expositis fora moenia pontes:
+      Virgineam Trivii quod repararis aquam
+    Prisca licet nautis statuas dare commoda portus:
+      Et Vaticanum cingere Sixte jugum:
+    Plus tamen urbs debet: nam quæ squalore latebet.
+      Germitur in celebri bibliotheca loco."
+
+
+_4th Room._--
+
+     ENTRANCE WALL:
+
+     32. The Martyrdom of SS. Processus and Martinianus, the gaolers of
+     St Peter: _Valentin_. It is stigmatised by Kugler as "an
+     unimportant and bad picture," but, perhaps from the connection of
+     the subject with the story of St Peter, has been thought worthy of
+     being copied in mosaic in the basilica, whence this picture was
+     brought.
+
+     "This picture is terrible for dark and effective expression; it is
+     just one of those subjects in which the Caravaggio school
+     delighted."--_Jameson's Sacred Art._
+
+     33. Martyrdom of St. Peter: _Guido Reni_.
+
+     "This has the heavy powerful forms of Caravaggio, but wants the
+     passionate feeling which sustains such subjects,--it is a martyrdom
+     and nothing more,--it might pass for an enormous and horrible genre
+     picture."--_Kugler._
+
+     34. Martyrdom of St. Erasmus: _N. Poussin_. A most horrible picture
+     of the disembowelment of the saint upon a wheel. It was copied in
+     mosaic in St Peter's when the picture was removed from thence.
+
+     LEFT WALL:
+
+     35. The Annunciation: _Baroccio_. From Sta. Maria di Loreto,
+     detained in the Vatican in exchange for a mosaic, after it was sent
+     back by the French.
+
+     36. St. Gregory the Great--the miracle of the Brandeum: _Andrea
+     Sacchi_.
+
+     "The Empress Constantia sent to St. Gregory requesting some of the
+     relics of St. Peter and St. Paul. He excused himself, saying that
+     he dared not disturb their sacred remains for such a purpose,--but
+     he sent her part of a consecrated cloth (Brandeum) which had
+     enfolded the body of St. John the Evangelist. The empress rejected
+     this gift with contempt: whereupon Gregory, to show that such
+     things are hallowed not so much in themselves as by the faith of
+     believers, laid the Brandeum on the altar, and after praying he
+     took up a knife and pierced it, and blood flowed as from a living
+     body."--_Jameson's Sacred Art_, p. 321.
+
+     37. The Ecstasy of Sta. Michelina: _Baroccio_. This picture is
+     mentioned by Lanzi as "Sta. Michelina estatica _sul Calvario_." The
+     story appears to be lost.
+
+     BETWEEN THE WINDOWS:
+
+     The Madonna and Child with St. Jerome and St. Bartholomew: _Moretto
+     da Brescia_ (_Buonvicino_).
+
+     38. The Dream of Sta. Helena (of the finding of the true Cross):
+     _Paolo Veronese_. Once in the Capitol collection.
+
+     RIGHT WALL (RETURNING):
+
+     39. Madonna with St. Thomas and St. Jerome: _Guido_. The St. Thomas
+     is very grand.
+
+     40. Madonna della Cintola with St. John and St. Augustin. Signed
+     1521: _Cesare da Sesto_.
+
+     41. Salvator Mundi. Christ seated on the rainbow: _Correggio?_
+
+     42. St. Romualdo: _Andrea Sacchi_. The saint sees the vision of a
+     ladder by which the friars of his Order ascend to heaven. The monks
+     in white drapery are grand and noble figures.
+
+     "It is recorded in the legend of St. Romualdo, that, a short time
+     before his death, he fell asleep beside a fountain near his cell;
+     and he dreamed, and in his dream he saw a ladder like that which
+     the patriarch Jacob beheld in his vision, resting on the earth, and
+     the top of it reaching to heaven; and he saw the brethren of his
+     Order ascending by twos and by threes, all clothed in white. When
+     Romualdo awoke from his dream, he changed the habit of his monks
+     from black to white, which they have ever since worn in remembrance
+     of this vision."--_Jameson's Monastic Orders_, p. 117.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A door on the ground-floor of the Cortile di S. Damaso will admit
+visitors (with an order) to visit the _Papal Manufactory of Mosaics_,
+whence so many beautiful works have issued, and where others are always
+in progress.
+
+     "Ghirlandajo, who felt the utmost enthusiasm for the august remains
+     of Roman grandeur, was still more deeply impressed by the sight of
+     the ancient mosaics of the Christian basilicas, the image of which
+     was still present to his mind when he said, at a more advanced age,
+     that 'mosaic was the true painting for eternity.'"--_Rio._
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+THE ISLAND AND THE TRASTEVERE.
+
+     Ponte Quattro Capi--Gaetani Tower--S. Bartolomeo in Isola--Temple
+     of Æsculapius--Hospital of the Benfratelli--Mills on the
+     Tiber--Ponte Cestio--Fornarina's House--S. Benedetto a
+     Piscinuola--Castle of the Alberteschi--S. Crispino--Palazzo
+     Ponziani--Sta. Maria in Cappella--Sta. Cecilia--Hospital of S.
+     Michele--Porta Portese--Sta. Maria del Orto--S. Francesco a
+     Ripa--Castle of the Anquillara--S. Chrisogono--Hospital of S.
+     Gallicane--Sta. Maria in Trastevere--S. Calisto--Convent of Sta.
+     Anna--S. Cosimato--Porta Settimiana--Sta. Dorotea--Ponte Sisto.
+
+
+Following the road which leads to the Temple of Vesta, &c., as far as
+the Via Savelli, and then turning down past the gateway of the Orsini
+palace, with its two bears,--we reach the _Ponte Quattro Capi_.
+
+This was the ancient Pons Fabricius, built of stone in the place of a
+wooden bridge, A.U.C. 733, by Fabricius, the Curator Viarum. It has two
+arches, with a small ornamental one in the central pier. In the twelfth
+century the greater part was faced with brickwork. An inscription, only
+partly legible, remains. L. FABRICIUS. C. T. CUR. VIAR. FACIUNDUM.
+CURAVIT. EIDEMQ. PROBAVIT.--Q. LEPIDUS. M. F. M. LOLLIUS. M. F. COS. EX.
+S. C. PROBAVERUNT. From this inscription the inference has been drawn
+that the senate always allowed forty years to elapse between the
+completion of a public work, and the grant to it of their public
+approval. This bridge, according to Horace, was a favourite spot with
+those who wished to drown themselves; hence Damasippus would have leaped
+into the Tiber, if it were not for the precepts of the stoic Stertinius:
+
+                            "Unde ego mira
+    Descripsi docilis præcepta hæc, tempore quo me
+    Solatus jussit sapientem pascere barbam,
+    Atque a Fabricio non tristem ponte reverti."
+
+    _Horace, Sat._ ii. 3.
+
+The name of the bridge changed with time to "Pons Tarpeius" and "Pons
+Judæorum," from the neighbouring Ghetto. It is now called Ponte Quattro
+Capi, from two busts of the four-headed Janus, which adorn its parapet,
+and are supposed to have come from the temple of "Janus Geminus," which
+stood in this neighbourhood.
+
+On crossing this bridge, we are on the Island in the Tiber, the
+formation of which is ascribed by tradition to the produce of the
+corn-fields of the Tarquins (cast contemptuously upon the waters after
+their expulsion), which accumulated here, till soil gathered around
+them, and a solid piece of land was formed. Of this, Ampère says:
+
+     "L'effet du courant rapide du fleuve est plutôt de détruire les
+     îles que d'en former. C'est ainsi qu'une petite île a été entraînée
+     par la violence des eaux en 1718."--_Histoire Romaine à Rome._
+
+On this island, anciently known as the _Isola Tiberina_, were three
+temples,--those, namely, of Æsculapius:
+
+    "Unde Coroniden circumflua Tibridis alveo
+    Insula Romuleæ sacris adsciverit urbis."
+
+    _Ovid, Metam._ xv. 624.
+
+    "Accepit Phoebo Nymphaque Coronide natum
+    Insula, dividua quam premit amnis aqua."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ i. 291.
+
+of Jupiter:
+
+    "Jupiter in parte est, cepit locus unus utrumque:
+    Junctaque sunt magno templa nepotis avo."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ i. 293.
+
+and of Faunus:
+
+    "Idibus agrestis fumant altaria Fauni,
+    Hic ubi discretas insula rumpit aquas."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ ii. 193.
+
+Here also was an altar to the Sabine god Semo-Sancus, whose inscription,
+legible in the early centuries of Christianity, led various
+ecclesiastical authors into the error that the words "Semoni Sanco"
+referred to Simon Magus.[357]
+
+In imperial times the island was used as a prison: among remarkable
+prisoners immured here was Arvandus, Prefect of Gaul, A.D. 468. In the
+reign of Claudius sick slaves were exposed and left to die here,--that
+emperor--by a strange contradiction in one who caused fallen gladiators
+to be butchered "for the pleasure of seeing them die"--making a law that
+any slave so exposed should receive his liberty if he recovered. In the
+middle ages the island was under the jurisdiction of the Cardinal Bishop
+of Porto, who lived in the Franciscan convent. Under Leo X. a fête was
+held here in which Camillo Querno, the papal poet, was crowned with ivy,
+laurel, and cabbage (!). In 1656 the whole island was appropriated as a
+hospital for those stricken with the plague,--a singular coincidence for
+the site of the temple of Æsculapius.
+
+The first building on the left, after passing the bridge, is a fine
+brick tower, of great historic interest, as the only relic of a castle,
+built by the family of the Anicii, of which St. Gregory the Great was a
+member, and two of whom were consuls together under Honorius:
+
+    "Est in Romuleo procumbens insula Tibri,
+    Qua medius geminas interfluit alveus urbes,
+    Discretas subeunte freto, pariterque minantes
+    Ardua turrigeræ surgunt in culmina ripæ.
+    Hic stetit et subitum prospexit ab aggere votum.
+    Unanimes fratres junctos stipante senatu
+    Ire forum, strictasque procul radiare secures,
+    Atque uno bijuges tolli de limine fasces."
+
+    _Claudius, Paneg. in Prob. et Olyb. Cons._ 226.
+
+From the Anicii the castle passed to the Gaetani. It was occupied as a
+fortress by the Countess Matilda, after she had driven the faction of
+the anti-pope Guibert out of the island, and was the refuge where two
+successive popes, Victor III. and Urban II., lived under her
+protection.[358]
+
+The centre of the island is now occupied by the _Church and Convent of
+S. Bartolomeo_, which gives it its present name.
+
+The piazza in front of the church is occupied by a pillar, erected at
+the private expense of Pius IX., to commemorate the opening of the
+Vatican Council of 1869--70,--adorned with statues of St. Bartholomew,
+St. Paulinus of Nola, St. Francis, and S. Giovanni di Dio. Here formerly
+stood an ancient obelisk (the only one of unknown origin). A fragment of
+it was long preserved at the Villa Albani, whence it is said to have
+been removed to Urbino. The church, a basilica, was founded by Otho III.
+_c._ 1000; its campanile dates from 1118. The nave and aisles are
+divided by red granite columns, said to be relics of the ancient
+temple,--as is a marble well-head under the stairs leading to the
+tribune. This was restored in 1798, and dedicated to St. Adalbert of
+Gnesen, who bestowed upon the church its great relic, the body of St.
+Bartholomew, which he asserted to have brought from Beneventum, though
+the inhabitants of that town profess that they still possess the _real_
+body of the apostle, and sent that of St. Paulinus of Nola to Rome
+instead. The dispute about the possession of this relic ran so high as
+to lead to a siege of Beneventum in the middle ages. The convent belongs
+to the Franciscans (Frati-Minori), who will admit male visitors into
+their pretty little garden at the end of the island, to see the remains
+of
+
+The Temple of Æsculapius, built after the great plague in Rome, in B.C.
+291, when, in accordance with the advice of the Sibylline books,
+ambassadors were sent to Epidaurus to bring Æsculapius to Rome;--they
+returned with a statue of the god, but as their vessel sailed up the
+Tiber, a serpent, which had lain concealed during the voyage, glided
+from it, and landed on this spot, hailed by the people under the belief
+that Æsculapius himself had thus come to them. In consequence of this
+story the form of a ship was given to this end of the island, and its
+bow may still be seen at the end of the convent garden, with the famous
+serpent of Æsculapius sculptured upon it in high relief.[359] The
+curious remains still existing are not of sufficient size to bear out
+the assertion often made that the whole island was enclosed in the
+travertine form of a ship, of which the temple of Jupiter at the other
+end afterwards formed the prow, and the obelisk the mast.
+
+     "Pendant les guerres Samnites, Rome fut de nouveau frappée par une
+     de ces maladies auxquelles elle était souvent en proie; celle-ci
+     dura trois années. On eut recours aux livres Sibyllins. En cas
+     pareil ils avaient prescrit de consacrer un temple à Apollon; cette
+     fois ils prescrivirent d'aller à Epidaure chercher le fils
+     d'Apollon, Esculape, et de l'amener à Rome. Esculape, sous la forme
+     d'un serpent, fut transporté d'Epidaure dans l'île Tibérine, où on
+     lui éleva un temple, et où ont été trouvés des _ex-voto_,
+     représentant des bras, des jambes, diverses autres parties du corps
+     humain, _ex-votos_ qu'on eût pu croire provenir d'une église de
+     Rome, car le catholicisme romain a adopté cet usage païen sans y
+     rien changer.
+
+     "Pourquoi place-t-on le temple d'Esculape en cet endroit? On a vu
+     que l'île Tibérine avait été très-anciennement consacrée au culte
+     d'un dieu des Latins primitifs, Faunus; or ce dieu rendait ses
+     oracles près des sources thermales; its devaient avoir souvent pour
+     l'objet la guérison des malades qui venaient demander la santé à
+     ces sources. De plus, les malades consultaient Esculape dans les
+     songes par incubation, comme dans l'Ovide, Numa va consulter Faunus
+     sur l'Aventin. Il n'est donc pas surprenant qu'on ait institué le
+     culte du dieu grec de la santé, là où le dieu latin Faunus rendait
+     ses oracles dans des songes, et où étaient probablement des sources
+     d'eau chaude qui ont disparu comme les _lautulæ_ près du Forum
+     romain.
+
+     "On donna à l'île la forme d'un vaisseau, plus tard un obélisque
+     figura le mât; en la regardant du Ponte Rotto, on reconnaît encore
+     très bien cette forme, de ce côté, on voit sculpté sur le mur qui
+     figure le vaisseau d'Esculape une image du dieu avec un serpent
+     entortillé autour de son sceptre. La belle statue d'Esculape, venue
+     des jardins Farnèse, passe pour avoir été celle de l'île Tibérine.
+     Un temple de Jupiter touchait à ce temple d'Esculape.
+
+     "Un jour que je visitais ce lieu, le sacristain de l'église de St.
+     Barthélemy me dit, '_Al tempo d'Esculapio quando Giove regnava._'
+     Phrase singulière, et qui montre encore vivante une sorte de foi au
+     paganisme chez les Romains."--_Ampère_, iii. 42.
+
+Opposite S. Bartolomeo, on the site of the temple of Faunus, is the
+_Hospital of S. Giovanni Calabita_, also called _Benfratelli_, entirely
+under the care of the brethren of S. Giovanni di Dio, who cook, nurse,
+wash, and otherwise do all the work of those who pass under their care,
+often to the number of 1200 in the course of the year, though the
+hospital is very small.
+
+     "C'est à Pie V. que les frères de l'ordre de la _Charité_, institué
+     par saint Jean de Dieu, durent leur premier établissement à Rome.
+
+     "Au milieu du cortége triomphal qui accompagnait don Juan
+     d'Autriche (1571), lors de son retour de Lépante, on remarquait un
+     pauvre homme misérablement vêtu et à l'attitude modeste. Il se
+     nommait Sébastien Arias _des frères de Jean de Dieu_. Jean de Dieu
+     était mort sans laisser d'autre règle à ses disciples que ces
+     touchantes paroles qu'il répétait sans cesse, _faites le bien, mes
+     frères_; et Sébastien d'Arias venait à Rome pour demander au pape
+     l'autorisation de former des couvents et d'avoir des hospices où
+     ils pussent suivre les exemples de dévouement que leur avait
+     laissés Jean de Dieu. Or, Sébastien rencontra don Juan à Naples, et
+     le vainqueur de Lépante le prit avec lui. Il se chargea même
+     d'appuyer sa requête, et Pie V. s'empressa d'accorder aux frères
+     non-seulement la bulle qu'ils désiraient, mais encore un monastère
+     dans l'île du Tibre."--_Gournerie_, _Rome Chrétienne_, ii. 206.
+
+A narrow lane near this leads to the other end of the island, where the
+temple of Jupiter stood. It is worth while to go thither for the sake of
+the view of the river and its bridges, which is to be obtained from a
+little quay leading to one of the numerous water-mills which exist near
+this. These floating _Mills_ (which bear sacred monograms upon their
+gables) are interesting as having been invented by Belisarius in order
+to supply the people and garrison with bread, during the siege of Rome
+by Vitiges, when the Goths had cut the aqueducts, and thus rendered the
+mills on the Janiculan useless.
+
+The bridge, of one large and two smaller arches, which connects the
+island with the Trastevere, is now called the _Ponte S. Bartolomeo_, but
+was anciently the Pons Cestius, or Gratianus, built A.U.C. 708, by the
+Prætor Lucius Cestius, who was probably father to the Caius Cestius
+buried near the Porta S. Paolo. It was restored A.D. 370 by the emperors
+Valentinian, Valens, and Gratian, as is seen from the fragments of a
+red letter inscription on the inside of the parapet, in which the title
+"Pontifex Maximus" is ascribed to each--"a tide accepted without
+hesitation," says Gibbon, "by seven Christian emperors, who were
+invested with more absolute authority over the religion they had
+deserted, than over that which they professed."
+
+We now enter _the Trastevere_, the city "across the Tiber,"--the portion
+of Rome which is most unaltered from mediæval times, and whose narrow
+streets are still overlooked by many ancient towers, gothic windows, and
+curious fragments of sculpture. The inhabitants on this side differ in
+many respects from those on the other side of the Tiber. They pride
+themselves upon being born "Trasteverini," profess to be the direct
+descendants of the ancient Romans, seldom intermarry with their
+neighbours, and speak a dialect peculiarly their own. It is said that in
+their dispositions also they differ from the other Romans, that they are
+a far more hasty, passionate, and revengeful, as they are a stronger and
+more vigorous race. The proportion of murders (a crime far less common
+in Rome than in England) is larger in this than in any other part of the
+city. This, it is believed, is partly due to the extreme excitement
+which the Trasteverini display in the pursuit of their national games,
+especially that of Morrà:--
+
+     "Morrà is played by the men, and merely consists in holding up, in
+     rapid succession, any number of fingers they please, calling out at
+     the same time the number their antagonist shows. Nothing,
+     seemingly, can be more simple or less interesting. Yet, to see them
+     play, so violent are their gestures, that you would imagine them
+     possessed by some diabolical passion. The eagerness and rapidity
+     with which they carry it on render it very liable to mistake and
+     altercation; then frenzy fires them, and too often furious disputes
+     arise at this trivial play that end in murder. Morrà seems to
+     differ in no respect from the _Micare Digitis_ of the ancient
+     Romans."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+A house with gothic windows on the right, soon after passing the bridge,
+is pointed out as that once inhabited by the _Fornarina_, beloved of
+Raphael, and so well known to us from his portrait of her in the Tribune
+at Florence.
+
+Crossing the Via Longarina, we find ourselves in the little piazza of
+_S. Benedetto a Piscinuola_, where there is a tiny church, with a good
+brick campanile intersected by terra-cotta mouldings, which occupies the
+site of the house inhabited by St. Benedict before his retreat to
+Subiaco. The exterior is uninviting, but the interior very curious; an
+atrium with antique columns opens to a vaulted chapel (of the same
+design as the Orto del Paradiso at Sta. Prassede), in which is a picture
+of the Virgin and Child, revered as that before which St. Benedict was
+wont to pray. Hence is entered the cell of the saint, of rough-hewn
+stones. His stone pillow is shown.
+
+The church has ancient pillars, and a rich opus-alexandrinum pavement.
+
+     "Over the high altar is a picture--full-length--of St. Benedict,
+     which Mabillon ('Iter Italicum') considers a genuine contemporary
+     portrait--though Nibby and other critics suppose it less ancient.
+     The figure on gold background is seated in a chair with gothic
+     carvings, such as were in mediæval use; the black cowl is drawn
+     over the head, the hair and beard are white; the aspect is serious
+     and thoughtful, in one hand a crozier, in the other the book of
+     rules drawn up by the Saint, displaying the words with which they
+     begin: 'Ausculta fili precepta magistri."--_Hemans' Ancient Sacred
+     Art._
+
+Turning down the Via Longarina towards the river, we pass, on the left,
+considerable remains of the old mediæval _Castle of the Alberteschi
+Family_, consisting of a block of palatial buildings of handsome
+masonry, with numerous antique fragments built into them, and a very
+rich porch sculptured with egg and billet mouldings of _c._ A.D. 1150,
+and beyond these, separated from them by a modern street, a high brick
+tower of _c._ A.D. 1100. Above one of the windows of this tower, a head
+of Jupiter is engrafted in the wall.
+
+We now reach the entrance of the Ponte Rotto (described Chap. V.). Close
+to this bridge is the Church of _S. Crispino al Ponte_ (the saint is
+buried at S. Lorenzo Pane e Perna). The front is modernized, but the
+east end displays rich terra-cotta cornices, and is very picturesque. On
+the river bank below this are the colossal lions' heads mentioned in
+Chap. V.
+
+Turning up the Via dei Vascellari, we pass on the right, the ancient
+_Palace of the Ponziani Family_, once magnificent, but now of humble and
+rude exterior, and scarcely to be distinguished, except in March, during
+the festa of Sta. Francesca Romana, when old tapestries are hung out
+upon its white-washed walls, and the street in front is thickly strewn
+with box-leaves.
+
+     "The modern building that has been raised on the foundation of the
+     old palace is the Casa dei Esercizii Pii, for the young men of the
+     city. There the repentant sinner who longs to break the chain of
+     sin, the youth beset by some strong temptation, one who has heard
+     the inward voice summoning him to higher paths of virtue, another
+     who is in doubt as to the particular line of life to which he is
+     called, may come, and leave behind him for three, or five, or ten
+     days, as it may be, the busy world, with all its distractions and
+     its agitations, and, free for the time being from temporal cares,
+     the wants of the body being provided for, and the mind at rest, may
+     commune with God and their own souls.
+
+     "Over the Casa dei Esercizii Pii the sweet spirit of Francesca
+     seems still to preside. On the day of her festival its rooms are
+     thrown open, every memorial of the gentle saint is exhibited,
+     lights burn on numerous altars, flowers deck the passages, leaves
+     are strewn in the chapel, on the stairs, in the entrance-court; gay
+     carpets, figured tapestry, and crimson silks hang over the door,
+     and crowds of people go in and out, and kneel before the relics or
+     the pictures of the dear saint of Rome. It is a touching festival,
+     which carries back the mind to the day when the young bride of
+     Lorenzo Ponziano entered these walls for the first time, in all the
+     sacred beauty of holiness and youth."--_Lady G. Fullerton._
+
+In this house, also, Sta. Francesca Romana died, having come hither from
+her convent to nurse her son who was ill, and having been then seized
+with mortal illness herself.
+
+     "Touching were the last words of the dying mother to her spiritual
+     children: 'Love, love,' was the burden of her teaching, as it had
+     been that of the beloved disciple. 'Love one another,' she said,
+     'and be faithful unto death. Satan will assault you, as he has
+     assaulted me, but be not afraid. You will overcome him through
+     patience and obedience; and no trial will be too grievous, if you
+     are united to Jesus; if you walk in His ways, He will be with you.'
+     On the seventh day of her illness, as she had herself announced,
+     her life came to a close. A sublime expression animated her face, a
+     more ethereal beauty clothed her earthly form. Her confessor for
+     the last time inquired what it was her enraptured eyes beheld, and
+     she answered, 'The heavens open! the angels descend! the angel has
+     finished his task. He stands before me. He beckons me to follow
+     him.' These were the last words Francesca uttered."--_Lady G.
+     Fullerton's Life of Sta. F. Romana._
+
+Almost opposite the Ponziani Palace, an alley leads to the small chapel
+of _Sta. Maria in Cappella_, which has a good brick campanile, dating
+from 1090. This building is attached to a hospital for poor women ill of
+incurable diseases, attended by sisters of charity, and entirely under
+the patronage of the Doria family.
+
+We now reach the front of the _Convent and Church of Sta. Cecilia_
+(facing which is a picturesque mediæval house), in many ways one of the
+most interesting buildings in the city.
+
+Cecilia was a noble and rich Roman lady, who lived in the reign of
+Alexander Severus. She was married at sixteen to Valerian, a heathen,
+with whom she lived in perpetual virginity, telling him that her
+guardian angel watched over her by day and night.
+
+    "I have an angel which thus loveth me--
+    That with great love, whether I wake or sleep,
+    Is ready aye my body for to keep."
+
+    _Chaucer._
+
+At length Valerian and his brother Tiburtius were converted to
+Christianity by her prayers, and the exhortations of Pope Urban I. The
+husband and brother were beheaded for refusing to sacrifice to idols,
+and Cecilia was shortly afterwards condemned by Almachius, prefect of
+Rome, who was covetous of the great wealth she had inherited by their
+deaths. She was first shut up in the _Sudatorium_ of her own baths, and
+a blazing fire was lighted, that she might be destroyed by the hot
+vapours. But when the bath was opened, she was found still living, "for
+God," says the legend, "had sent a cooling shower, which had tempered
+the heat of the fire, and preserved the life of the saint." Almachius,
+then, who dreaded the consequences of bringing so noble and courageous a
+victim to public execution, sent a lictor to behead her in her own
+palace, but he executed his office so ill, that she still lived after
+the third blow of his axe, after which the Roman law forbade that a
+victim should be stricken again. "The Christians found her bathed in her
+blood, and during three days she still preached and taught, like a
+doctor of the Church, with such sweetness and eloquence, that four
+hundred pagans were converted. On the third day she was visited by Pope
+Urban, to whose care she tenderly committed the poor whom she nourished,
+and to him she bequeathed the palace in which she had lived, that it
+might be consecrated as a temple to the Saviour. Then, "thanking God
+that he considered her, a humble woman, worthy to share the glory of his
+heroes, and with her eyes apparently fixed upon the heavens opening
+before her, she departed to her heavenly bridegroom, upon the 22nd
+November, A.D. 280."
+
+The foundation of the church dates from its consecration by Pope Urban
+I., after the death of St. Cecilia, but it was rebuilt by Paschal I. in
+821, and miserably modernized by Cardinal Doria in 1725. The exterior
+retains its ancient campanile of 1120, and its atrium of marble pillars,
+evidently collected from pagan edifices and surmounted by a frieze of
+mosaic, in which medallion heads of Cecilia, Valerian, Tiburtius, Urban
+I., and others are introduced. In the courtyard of the convent, which
+belongs to Benedictine nuns, is a fine specimen of the Roman vase called
+Cantharus, perhaps coeval with St. Cecilia's own residence here.
+
+Right of the door, on entering, is the tomb of Adam of Hertford, Bishop
+of London, who died 1398, the only one spared from a cruel death, of the
+cardinals who conspired against Urban VI., and were taken prisoners at
+Lucera--from fear of King John who was his friend. His sarcophagus is
+adorned with the arms of England, then three leopards and fleurs-de-lis
+quartered. On the opposite side of the entrance is the tomb of Cardinal
+Fortiguerra, conspicuous in the contests of Pius II. and Paul II. with
+the Malatestas and Savellis in the fifteenth century. The drapery is a
+beautiful specimen of the delicate carving of detail during that period.
+
+The altar canopy, which bears the name of its artist, Arnolphus, and the
+date 1286, is a fine specimen of gothic work, and has statuettes of
+Cecilia, Valerian, Tiburtius, and Urban. Beneath the altar is the famous
+statue of St. Cecilia.
+
+In the archives of the Vatican remains an account written by Pope
+Paschal I. (A.D. 817--24) himself, describing how, "yielding to the
+infirmity of the flesh," he fell asleep in his chair during the early
+morning service at St. Peter's, with his mind pre-occupied with a
+longing to find the burial-place of Cecilia, and discover her relics.
+Then in a glorified vision the virgin-saint appeared before him, and
+revealed the spot where she lay, with her husband and brother-in-law, in
+the catacomb of Calixtus, and there they were found, and transported to
+her church on the following day.
+
+In the sixteenth century, Sfondrato, titular cardinal of the church,
+opened the tomb of the martyr, when the embalmed body of Cecilia was
+found, as it had been previously found by Paschal, robed in gold tissue,
+with linen clothes steeped in blood at her feet, "not lying upon the
+back, like a body in a tomb, but upon its right side, like a virgin in
+her bed, with her knees modestly drawn together, and offering the
+appearance of sleep." Pope Clement VIII. and all the people of Rome
+rushed to look upon the saint, who was afterwards enclosed as she was
+found, in a shrine of cypress wood cased in silver. But before she was
+again hidden from sight, the greatest artist of the day, Stefano
+Maderno, was called in by Sfondrato, to sculpture the marble portrait
+which we now see lying upon her grave. Sfondrato (whose tomb is in this
+church) also enriched her shrine with the ninety-six silver lamps which
+burn constantly before it. In regarding this statue it will be
+remembered that Cecilia was not beheaded, but wounded in the throat,--a
+gold circlet conceals the wound.
+
+     In the statue "the body lies on its side, the limbs a little drawn
+     up; the hands are delicate and fine,--they are not locked, but
+     crossed at the wrists: the arms are stretched out. The drapery is
+     beautifully modelled, and modestly covers the limbs.... It is the
+     statue of a lady, perfect in form, and affecting from the
+     resemblance to reality in the drapery of white marble, and the
+     unspotted appearance of the statue altogether. It lies as no living
+     body could lie, and yet correctly, as the dead when left to
+     expire,--I mean in the gravitation of the limbs."--_Sir C. Bell._
+
+     The inscription says: "Behold the body of the most holy virgin
+     Cecilia, whom I myself saw lying incorrupt in her tomb. I have in
+     this marble expressed for thee the same saint in the very same
+     posture of body."
+
+The tribune is adorned with mosaics of the ninth century, erected in the
+lifetime of Paschal I. (see his _square_ nimbus). The Saviour is seen in
+the act of benediction, robed in gold: at his side are SS. Peter and
+Paul, St. Cecilia and St. Valerian, St. Paschal I. carrying the model of
+his church, and St. Agatha, whom he joined with Cecilia in its
+dedication. The mystic palm-trees and the phoenix, the emblem of
+eternity, are also represented, and, beneath, the four rivers, and the
+twelve sheep, emblematical of the apostles, issuing from the gates of
+Bethlehem and Jerusalem, to the adoration of the spotless Lamb. The
+picture of St. Cecilia behind the altar is attributed to _Guido_.
+
+At the end of the right aisle is an ancient fresco representing the
+dream of Pope Paschal,--the (mitred) pope asleep upon his throne, and
+the saint appearing before him in a rich robe adorned with gems. This is
+the last of a series of frescoes which once existed in the portico of
+the church. The rest were destroyed in the seventeenth century. There
+are copies of them in the Barberini Library, viz.
+
+    1. The marriage feast of Valerian and Cecilia.
+    2. Cecilia persuades Valerian to seek for St. Urban.
+    3. Valerian rides forth to seek for Urban.
+    4. Valerian is baptized.
+    5. An Angel crowns Cecilia and Valerian.
+    6. Cecilia converts her executioners.
+    7. Cecilia suffers in the bath.
+    8. The Martyrdom of Cecilia.
+    9. The Burial of Cecilia.
+    10. The dream of Paschal.
+
+Opening out of the same aisle are two chambers in the house of St.
+Cecilia, one the sudatorium of her baths, in which she was immured,
+actually retaining the pipes and calorifers of an ancient Roman bath.
+
+The Festa of St. Cecilia is observed in this church on November 22nd,
+when--
+
+    --"rapt Cecilia, seraph-haunted queen of harmony"--[360]
+
+is honoured in beautiful music from the papal choir assembled here.
+Visitors to Bologna will recollect the glorious figure of St. Cecilia by
+Raphael, rapt in ecstasy, and surrounded by instruments of music. This
+association with Cecilia probably arises from the tradition of the
+church, which tells how Valerian, returning from baptism by Pope Urban,
+found her singing hymns of triumph for his conversion, of which he had
+supposed her to be ignorant, and that when the bath was opened after
+her three days' imprisonment, she was again found singing the praises of
+her Saviour.
+
+It is said that "she sang with such ravishing sweetness, that even the
+angels descended from heaven to listen to her, or to join their voices
+with hers."
+
+The antiphons sung upon her festival are:
+
+     "And Cecilia, thy servant, serves thee, O Lord, even as the bee
+     that is never idle.
+
+     "I bless thee, O Father of my Lord Jesus Christ, for through thy
+     Son the fire hath been quenched round about me.
+
+     "I asked of the Lord a respite of three days, that I might
+     consecrate my house as a church.
+
+     "O Valerian, I have a secret to tell thee; I have for my lover an
+     angel of God, who, with great jealousy, watches over my body.
+
+     "The glorious virgin ever bore the Gospel of Christ in her bosom,
+     and neither by day nor night ceased from conversing with God in
+     prayer."
+
+And the anthem:
+
+     "While the instruments of music were playing, Cecilia sang unto the
+     Lord, and said, Let my heart be undefiled, that I may never be
+     confounded.
+
+     "And Valerianus found Cecilia praying in her chamber with an
+     angel."
+
+It will be remembered that Cecilia is one of the chosen saints _daily_
+commemorated in the canon of the mass.
+
+     "Nobis quoque peccatoribus famulis tuis, de multitudine
+     miserationum tuarum sperantibus, partem aliquam et societatem
+     donare digneris cum tuis sanctis Apostolis et Martyribus: cum
+     Joanne, Stephano, Matthia, Barnaba, Ignatio, Alexandro, Marcellino,
+     Petro, Felicitate, Perpetua, Agata, Lucia, Agnete, _Cæcilia_,
+     Anastasia, et omnibus sanctis."
+
+Just beyond St. Cecilia is the immense _Hospital of S. Michele_, founded
+by Cardinal Odescalchi, nephew of Innocent XI., in 1693, as a refuge for
+vagabond children, where they might be properly brought up and taught a
+trade. Innocent XII. (Pignatelli) added to this foundation a hospital
+for sick persons of both sexes, and each succeeding pope has increased
+the buildings and their endowment. The establishment is now divided into
+an asylum for old men and women, a school with ateliers for boys and
+girls, and a penitentiary ("Casa delle Donne cattive"). A large church
+was attached to the hospital by Leo XII. No old men are admitted who
+have not inhabited Rome for five years; if they are still able to work a
+small daily task is given to them. The old women, as long as they can
+work, are obliged to mend and wash the linen of the establishment. The
+boys, for the most part orphans, are received at the age of eleven. The
+girls receive a dowry of 300 francs if they marry, but double that sum
+if they consent to enter a convent. A printing press is attached to the
+hospital.
+
+S. Michele occupies the site of the sacred grove of the goddess Furina
+(not of the Furies), where Caius Gracchus was killed, B.C. 123.
+Protected by his friends, he escaped from the Aventine, where he had
+first taken refuge, and crossed the Pons Sublicius. A single slave
+reached the grove of Furina with him, who having in vain sought for a
+horse to continue their flight, first slew his master and then himself.
+One Septimuleius then cut off the head of Gracchus, and--a proclamation
+having been issued that any one who brought the head of Caius Gracchus
+should receive its weight in gold--first filled it with lead, and then
+carried it on a spear to the consul Opimius, who paid him his
+blood-money.
+
+At the end of this street is the _Porta Portese_, built by Urban VIII.,
+through which runs the road to Porto and Fiumicino.
+
+Outside this gate was the site of the camp of Tarquin,--afterwards given
+by the senate to Mutius-Scævola, for his bravery in the camp of Lars
+Porsenna. The vineyards here have an interest to Roman Catholics as the
+scene of one of the miracles attributed to Sta. Francesca Romana.
+
+     "One fine sunny January day, Francesca and her companions had
+     worked since dawn in the vineyards of the Porta Portese. They had
+     worked hard for several hours, and then suddenly remembered that
+     they had brought no provisions with them. They soon became faint
+     and hungry, and, above all, very thirsty. Perna, the youngest of
+     all the oblates, was particularly heated and tired, and asked
+     permission of the Mother Superior to go to drink water at a
+     fountain some way off on the public road.
+
+     "'Be patient, my child,' Francesca answered, and they went on with
+     their work; but Francesca withdrawing aside, knelt down, and said,
+     'Lord Jesus, I have been thoughtless in forgetting to provide food
+     for my sisters,--help us in our need.'
+
+     "Perna, who had kept near the Mother Superior, said to herself,
+     with some impatience, 'It would be more to the purpose to take us
+     home at once.' Then Francesca, turning to her, said, 'My child, you
+     do not trust in God; look up and see.' And Perna saw a vine
+     entwined around a tree, whose dead and leafless branches were
+     loaded with grapes. In speechless astonishment the oblates
+     assembled around the tree, for they had all seen its bare and
+     withered branches. Twenty times at least they had passed before it,
+     and the season for grapes was gone by. There were exactly as many
+     bunches as persons present.'--_See Lady G. Fullerton's Life of Sta.
+     F. Romana._
+
+From the back of S. Michele a cross street leads to the _Church of Sta.
+Maria dell' Orto_, designed by Giulio Romano, _c._ 1530, except the
+façade, which is by Martino Lunghi. The high altar is by Giacomo della
+Porta. The church contains an Annunciation by _Taddeo Zucchero_.
+
+     "Cette église appartient à plusieurs corporations; chacune a sa
+     tombe devant sa propre chapelle, et sur le couvercle sont gravées
+     ses armes particulières; un coq sur la tombe des marchands de
+     volaille, une pantoufle sur celle des savetiers, des artichauts sur
+     celle des jardiniers, &c."--_Robello._
+
+Close to this, at the end of the street which runs parallel with S.
+Michele, is the _Church of S. Francesco a Ripa_, the noviciate of the
+Franciscans--"Frati Minori." The convent contains the room (approached
+through the church) in which St. Francis lived, during his visits at
+Rome, with many relics of him. His stone pillow and his crucifix are
+shown, and a picture of him by G. de' Lettesoli. An altar in his chamber
+supports a reliquary in which 18,000 relics are displayed!
+
+The church was rebuilt soon after the death of St. Francis by the knight
+Pandolfo d'Anquillara (his castle is in the Via Lungaretta), whose tomb
+is in the church, with his figure, in the dress of a Franciscan monk,
+which he assumed in the latter part of his life. It was again rebuilt by
+Cardinal Pallavicini, from designs of Matteo Rossi. Among its pictures
+are the Virgin and St. Anne by _Baciccio_, the Nativity by _Simon
+Vouet_, and a dead Christ by _Annibale Caracci_. On the left of the
+altar is the Altieri chapel, in which is a recumbent statue of the
+blessed Luigi Albertoni, by _Bernini_. In the third chapel on the right
+is a mummy, said to be that of the virgin martyr Sta. Semplicia. The
+convent garden has some beautiful palm-trees.
+
+Following the Via Morticelli we regain the Via Lungaretta near S.
+Benedetto. This street, more than any other in Rome, retains remnants of
+mediæval architecture. On the right (opposite the opening to the west
+end of S. Chrisogono) is the entrance to the old _Castle of the
+Anguillara Family_, of whom were Count Pandolfo d'Anguillara already
+mentioned, and Everso, his grandson, celebrated for his highway
+robberies between Rome and Viterbo in the fifteenth century; also Orso
+d'Anguillara, senator of Rome, who crowned Petrarch at the Capitol on
+Easter Day, 1341. "The family device, two crossed eels, surmounted by a
+helmet, and a wild boar holding a serpent in his mouth, is believed to
+refer to the story of the founder of their house, Malagrotta, a second
+St. George, who slew a terrible serpent, which had devastated the
+district round his abode, and received in recompense from the pope the
+gift of as much land as he could walk round in one day."[361]
+
+The existing remains consist of an arch, called "L'Arco dell'
+Annunziata," and a brick tower, which is now in the possession of a
+Signor Forti, who exhibits here, during Epiphany, a remarkably pretty
+_Presepio_, in which the Holy Family and the Shepherds are seen backed
+by the real landscape. For those who witness this sight it will be
+interesting to turn to the origin of a Presepio.
+
+     "St. Francis asked [of Pope Honorius III. 1223], with his usual
+     simplicity, to be allowed to celebrate Christmas with certain
+     unusual ceremonies which had suggested themselves to
+     him--ceremonies which he must have thought likely to seize upon the
+     popular imagination and impress the unlearned folk. He would not do
+     it on his own authority, we are told, lest he should be accused of
+     levity. When he made this petition, he was bound for the village of
+     Grecia, a little place not far from Assisi, where he was to remain
+     during that sacred season. In this village, when the eve of the
+     nativity approached, Francis instructed a certain grave and worthy
+     man, called Giovanni, to prepare an ox and an ass, along with a
+     manger and all the common fittings of a stable, for his use, in the
+     church. When the solemn night arrived, Francis and his brethren
+     arranged all these things into a visible representation of the
+     occurrences of the night at Bethlehem. The manger was filled with
+     hay, the animals were led into their places; the scene was
+     prepared as we see it now through all the churches of Southern
+     Italy--a reproduction, so far as the people know how, in startling
+     realistic detail of the surroundings of the first Christmas.... We
+     are told that Francis stood by this, his simple theatrical (for
+     such, indeed, it was--no shame to him) representation, all the
+     night long, sighing for joy, and filled with an unspeakable
+     sweetness."--_Mrs. Oliphant, St. Francis._
+
+On the left, is the fine _Church of S. Chrisogono_, founded by Pope
+Sylvester, but rebuilt in 731, and again by Cardinal Scipio Borghese
+(who modernized so many of the old churches), in 1623. The tower is
+mediæval (rebuilt?), but spoilt by whitewash; the portico has four
+ancient granite columns. The interior is a basilica, the nave being
+separated from the aisles by twenty-two granite columns, and the tribune
+from the nave by two magnificent columns of porphyry. The baldacchino,
+of graceful proportions, rests on pillars of yellow alabaster. Over the
+tabernacle is a picture of the Virgin and Child by the _Cav. d'Arpino_.
+The mosaic in the tribune, probably only the fragment of a larger
+design, represents the Madonna and Child enthroned, between St. James
+the Great and St. Chrisogonus. The stalls are good specimens of modern
+wood-carving. Near the end of the right aisle is the modern tomb of Anna
+Maria Taigi, lately beatified and likely to be canonized, though readers
+of her life will find it difficult to imagine why,--the great point of
+her character being that she was a good wife to her husband, though he
+was "ruvido di maniere, e grossolano." Stephen Langton, Archbishop of
+Canterbury, was titular cardinal of this church.
+
+S. Chrisogono, represented in the mosaic as a young knight, stood by
+Sta. Anastasia during her martyrdom, exhorting her to patient endurance.
+He was afterwards himself beheaded under Diocletian, and his body
+thrown into the sea.
+
+In 1866 an _Excubitorium_ of the VIIth cohort of Vigiles (a station of
+Roman firemen) was discovered near this church. Several chambers were
+tolerably perfect.
+
+On the left, we pass the _Hospital of S. Gallicano_, founded by Benedict
+XIII. (Orsini), in 1725, as is told by the inscription over the
+entrance, for the "neglectis rejectisque ab omnibus." The interior
+contains two long halls opening into one another, the first containing
+120 beds for men, the second 88 for women. Patients affected with
+maladies of the skin are received here to the number of 100. The
+principal treatment is by means of baths, which gives the negative,
+within these walls, to the Italian saying that "an ancient Roman took as
+many baths in a week as a modern Roman in all his life." The
+establishment is at present under the management of the Benfratelli
+("Fate bene fratelli"). S. Gallicano, to whom the hospital is dedicated,
+was a Benfratello of the time of Constantine, who devoted his time and
+his fortune to the poor.
+
+At the upper end of the Via Lungaretta is a piazza with a very handsome
+fountain, on one side of which is the _Church of Sta. Maria in
+Trastevere_, supposed to be the first church in Rome dedicated to the
+Virgin. It was founded by St. Calixtus in _A.D._ 224, on the site of the
+Taberna-Meritoria, an asylum for old soldiers; where, according to Don
+Cassius, a fountain of pure oil sprang up at the time of our Saviour's
+birth, and flowed away in one day to the Tiber, a story which gave the
+name of "Fons Olei" to the church in early times. It is said that
+wine-sellers and tavern-keepers (popinarii) disputed with the early
+Christian inhabitants for this site, upon which the latter had raised
+some kind of humble oratory, and that they carried their complaint
+before Alexander Severus, when the emperor awarded the site to the
+Christians, saying, "I prefer that it should belong to those who honour
+God, whatever be their form of worship."
+
+     "Ce souvenir augmente encore l'intérêt qui s'attache à l'église de
+     Santa Maria in Trastevere. Les colonnes antiques de granit égyptien
+     de cette basilique et les belles mosaïques qui la décorent me
+     touchent moins que la tradition d'après laquelle elle fut élevée là
+     où de pauvres chrétiens se rassemblaient dans un cabaret purifié
+     par leur piété, pour y célébrer le culte qui devait un jour étaler
+     ses magnificences sous le dôme resplendissant de
+     Saint-Pierre."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 318.
+
+The church was rebuilt in 340 by Julius I., and after a series of
+alterations was again almost entirely reconstructed in 1139 by Innocent
+II., as a thanksgiving offering for the submission of the anti-pope.
+Eugenius III. (1145--50) finished what was left uncompleted, but the new
+basilica was not consecrated till the time of Innocent III.
+(1198--1216). The tower, apse, tribune, and mosaics belong to the early
+restoration; the rest is due to alterations made by Bernardino
+Rossellini for Nicholas V.
+
+The west façade is covered with mosaics; the upper part--representing
+the Saviour throned between angels--and the lower--of palms, the twelve
+sheep, and the mystic cities--are additions by Pius IX. in 1869. The
+central frieze was begun in the twelfth century under Eugenius III., and
+completed in the fourteenth by Pietro Cavallini. It represents the
+Virgin and Child enthroned in the midst, and ten female figures,
+generally described as the Ten Virgins,--but Hemans remarks:
+
+     "It is evident that such subject cannot have been in the artist's
+     thoughts, as each stately figure advances towards the throne with
+     the same devout aspect and graceful serenity, the same faith and
+     confidence; the sole observable distinctions being that the two
+     with unlit lamps are somewhat more matronly, their costumes
+     simpler, than is the case with the rest; and that instead of being
+     crowned, as are the others, these two wear veils. Explanation of
+     such attributes may be found in the mystic meaning--the light being
+     appropriate to virgin saints, the oil taken to signify benevolence
+     or almsgiving; and we may conclude that those without light
+     represent wives or widows, the others virgin saints, in this group.
+     Two other diminutive figures (the scale indicating humility), who
+     kneel at the feet of Mary, are Innocent II. and Eugenius III., both
+     vested in the pontifical mantle, but bareheaded. Originally the
+     Mother and Child _alone_ had the nimbus around the head, as we see
+     in a water-colour drawing from this original (now in the Barberini
+     Library) dated 1640, made _before_ a renovation by which that halo
+     has been given alike to all the female figures. Another much faded
+     mosaic, the Madonna and Child, under an arched canopy, high up on
+     the campanile, may perhaps be as ancient as those on the
+     façade."--_Mediæval Christian Art._
+
+The portico contains two frescoes of the Annunciation, one of them
+ascribed to _Cavallini_. Its walls are occupied by early Christian and
+pagan inscriptions. One, of the time of Trajan, is regarded with
+peculiar interest: "MARCUS COCCEUS LIB. AUG. AMBROSIUS PRÆPOSITUS,
+VESTIS ALBÆ, TRIUMPHALIS, FECIT, NICE CONJUGI SUÆ CUM QUA VIXIT ANNOS
+XXXXV., DIEBUS XI., SINE ULLA QUERELA." Between the doors is preserved a
+curious relic--the stone said to have been attached to St. Calixtus when
+he was thrown into the well. The interior is that of a basilica. The
+nave, paved with opus-alexandrinum, is divided from the aisles by
+twenty-two ancient granite columns, whose Ionic capitals are in several
+instances decorated with heads of pagan gods. They support a
+richly-decorated architrave. The roof, in the centre of which is a
+picture of the Assumption of the Virgin, is painted by _Domenichino_. On
+the right of the entrance is a ciborium by Mino da Fiesole. The high
+altar covers a confessional, beneath which are the remains of five
+early popes, removed from the catacombs. Among the tombs are those of
+the painters, Lanfranco and Ciro Ferri, and of Bastari, librarian of the
+Vatican, editor of the dictionary of the Della Cruscan Academy, and
+canon of this church, ob. 1775.
+
+Pope Innocent II. is buried here without a tomb.
+
+In the left transept is a beautiful gothic tabernacle over an altar,
+erected by Cardinal d'Alençon, nephew of Charles de Valois, and brother
+of Philippe le Bel. On one side is the tomb of that cardinal (the fresco
+represents the martyrdom of his patron St. Philip, who is pourtrayed as
+crucified with his head downwards like St. Peter); on the other is the
+monument of Cardinal Stefaneschi, by _Paolo_, one of the first sculptors
+of the fourteenth century. Opening from hence is a chapel, which has a
+curious picture of the Council of Trent by _Taddeo Zucchero_. At the end
+of the right aisle are several more fine tombs of the sixteenth century,
+and the chapel of the Madonna di Strada Cupa, designed by _Domenichino_,
+from whose hand is the figure of a child scattering flowers, sketched
+out in one corner of the vaulting.
+
+The upper part of the tribune is adorned with magnificent mosaics,
+(restored in modern times by Camuccini,) of the time of Innocent II.
+
+     "In the centre of the principal group on the vault is the Saviour,
+     seated, with his Mother, crowned and robed like an Eastern Queen,
+     beside him, both sharing the same gorgeous throne and footstool;
+     while a hand extends from a fan-like glory with a jewelled crown
+     held over his head; _she_ (a singular detail here) giving
+     benediction with the usual action; He embracing her with the left
+     arm, and in the right hand holding a tablet that displays the words
+     'Veni, electa mea, et ponam in thronum meum;' to which corresponds
+     the text, from the song of Solomon, on a tablet in her left hand,
+     'Læva ejus sub capite meo et dextera illius amplexabitur me.' Below
+     the heavenly throne stand, each with name inscribed in gold
+     letters, Innocent II., holding a model of this church; St.
+     Laurence, in deacon's vestments, with the Gospels and the jewelled
+     cross; the sainted popes, Calixtus I., Cornelius, and Julius I.;
+     St. Peter (in classic white vestments), and Calepodius, a martyr of
+     the third century, here introduced because his body, together with
+     those of the other saints in the same group, was brought from the
+     catacombs to this church.
+
+     "As to ecclesiastical costume, this work affords decisive evidence
+     of its ancient splendour and varieties. We do not see the keys in
+     the hands of St. Peter, but the large tonsure on his head; that
+     ecclesiastical badge which he is said to have invented, and which
+     is sometimes the sole peculiarity (besides the ever-recognisable
+     type) given to this Apostle in art.
+
+     "Above the archivolt we see a cross between the Alpha and Omega,
+     and the winged emblems of the Evangelists; laterally, Jeremiah and
+     Isaiah, each with a prophetic text on a scroll; along a frieze
+     below, twelve sheep advancing from the holy cities, Jerusalem and
+     Bethlehem, towards the Divine Lamb, who stands on a mount whence
+     issue the four rivers of Paradise--or, according to perhaps juster
+     interpretation, the four streams of gospel truth. Palms and a
+     phoenix are seen beside the two prophets; also a less common
+     symbol--caged birds, that signify the righteous soul incarcerated
+     in the body, or (with highest reference) the Saviour in his assumed
+     humanity; such accessory reminding of the ancient usage, in some
+     countries, of releasing birds at funerals, and of that still kept
+     up amidst the magnificent canonization-rites, of offering various
+     kinds of birds, in cages, at the papal throne.
+
+     "Remembering the date of the composition before us, about a century
+     and a half before the time of Cimabue and Giotto, we may hail in
+     it, if not an actual Renaissance, the dawn, at least, that heralds
+     a brighter day for art, compared with the deep gloom
+     previous."--_Hemans' Mediæval Christian Art._
+
+Below these are another series of mosaics representing six scenes in the
+life of the Virgin, the work of Pietro Cavallini, of the thirteenth
+century, when they were ordered by Bertoldo Stefaneschi, who is himself
+introduced in one of the subjects. In the centre of the tribune is an
+ancient marble episcopal throne, raised by a flight of steps.
+
+In the _Sacristy_ is a picture of the Virgin with S. Rocco and S.
+Sebastiano, by _Perugino_. Here are preserved some beautiful fragments
+of mosaics of birds, &c., from the catacombs.
+
+Outside the right transept of Sta. Maria is a picturesque shrine, and
+there are many points about this ancient church which are interesting to
+the artist. The palace, which forms one side of the piazza at the west
+end of the church, formerly _Palazzo Moroni_, is now used as the summer
+residence of the Benedictine monks of S. Paolo, who are driven from
+their convent by the malaria during the hot months. During the
+revolutionary government of 1848--49, a number of priests suffered death
+here, which has led to the monastery being regarded as "the Carmes of
+Rome." The modern _Church of S. Calisto_ contains the well in which he
+suffered martyrdom, A.D. 222. This well, now seen through a door near
+the altar, was then in the open air, and the pope was thrown into it
+from the window of a house in which he had been imprisoned and scourged,
+and where he had converted the soldier who was appointed to guard him.
+His festival is celebrated here with great splendour by the monks.
+
+Opposite S. Calisto is the _Monastery of St. Anna_, in which were passed
+the last days of the beautiful and learned Vittoria Colonna. As her
+death approached she was removed to the neighbouring house of her
+kinsman Giuliano Cesarini, and there she expired (February, 1547) in the
+presence of her devoted friend, Michael Angelo, who always regretted
+that he had not in that solemn moment ventured to press his lips for the
+first and last time to her beautiful countenance. She was buried, by her
+own desire, in the convent chapel, without any monument.
+
+Hence a lane leads to the _Church of S. Cosimato_, in an open space
+facing the hill of S. Rietro in Montorio (where stands of seats are
+placed during the Girandola). A courtyard is entered through a low arch
+supported by two ancient columns, having a high roof with rich
+terra-cotta mouldings,--beautiful in colour. The court contains an
+antique fountain, and is exceedingly picturesque. The church has
+carefully sculptured details of cornice and moulding; the door is a good
+specimen of mediæval wood-carving. The wall on the left of the altar is
+occupied by a most beautiful fresco of _Pinturicchio_, representing St.
+Francis and St. Clare standing on either side of the Virgin and Child.
+Opening from the end of the left aisle is a very interesting chapel,
+decorated with frescoes, and containing a most beautiful altar of the
+fifteenth century, in honour of the saints Severa and Fortunata, with
+statuettes of Faith, Justice, Charity, and Hope. Attached to the church
+is a very large convent of Poor Clares, which produced two saints,
+Theodora and Seraphina, in the fifteenth century.
+
+Following the Via della Scala, on the south side of Sta. Maria in
+Trastevere, we reach the _Porta Settimiana_, built by Alexander VI. on
+the site of a gateway raised by Honorius, which marked the position of
+an arch of Septimius Severus. This is the entrance of the Via Lungara,
+containing the Corsini and Farnesina Palaces (see Chapter XX.). The
+gateway has forked battlements, but is much spoilt by recent
+plasterings. Near this is _Sta. Dorotea_, an ugly church, but important
+in church history from its connection with the foundation of the Order
+of the Theatins, which arose out of a revulsion from the sensuous age of
+Leo X.; and as containing the tomb of their founder, Don Gaëtano di
+Teatino, the friend of Paul IV.
+
+     "Dès le règne de Léon X., quelques symptômes d'une réaction
+     religieuse se manifestèrent dans les hautes classes de la société
+     romaine. On vit un certain nombre d'hommes éminents s'affilier les
+     uns aux autres, afin de trouver dans de saintes pratiques assez de
+     force pour résister à l'atmosphère énervante qui les entourait. Ils
+     prirent pour leur association le titre et les emblèmes de l'amour
+     divin, et ils s'assemblèrent, à des jours déterminés, dans l'église
+     de Sainte-Dorothée, près de la porte Settimiana. Parmi ces hommes
+     de foi et d'avenir, on citait un archevêque, Caraffa; un
+     protonotaire apostolique, Gaëtan de Thiène; un noble Vénitien aussi
+     distingué par son caractére que par ses talents, Contarini; et
+     cinquante autres dont les noms rappellaient tons, ou une
+     illustration ou une haute position sociale, tels que Lippomano,
+     Sadolet, Ghiberti.
+
+     "Mais bientôt ces premiers essais de rupture avec la tendance
+     générale des esprits enflammèrent le zèle de plusieurs des membres
+     de la Congrégation de _l'Amour divin_. Caraffa surtout, dont l'âme
+     ardente n'avait trouvé qu'anxiétés et fatigue dans les grandeurs,
+     aspirait à une vie d'action qui lui permit de s'employer, de tous
+     ses moyens, à la réforme du monde. Il trouva dans Gaëtan de Thiène
+     des dispositions conformes à ce qu'il désirait. Gaëtan avait
+     cependant un caractère très-différent du sien; doué d'une angélique
+     douceur, craignant de se faire entendre, recherchant la méditation
+     et la retraite, il eût voulu, lui aussi, réformer le monde, mais il
+     n'eût pas voulu en être connu. Les qualités diverses de ces deux
+     hommes rares se combinèrent heureusement dans l'exécution du projet
+     qu'ils avaient conçu, c'était de former des ecclésiastiques voués,
+     tout ensemble à la contemplation et à une vie austère, à la
+     prédication et au soin des malades; des ecclésiastiques qui
+     donnassent partout au clergé l'exemple de l'accomplissement des
+     devoirs de sa sainte mission."--_Gournerie, Rome Chrétienne_, ii.
+     157.
+
+     "When Dorothea, the maiden of Cæsarea, was condemned to death by
+     Sapritius, she replied, 'Be it so, then I shall the sooner stand in
+     the presence of Christ, my spouse, in whose garden are the fruits
+     of paradise, and roses that never fade.' As she was being led to
+     execution, the young Theophilus mocking said, 'O maiden, goest thou
+     to join thy bridegroom? send me then, I pray thee, of the fruits
+     and flowers which grow in his garden.' And the maiden bowed her
+     head and smiled, saying, 'Thy request is granted, O Theophilus,'
+     whereat he laughed, and she went forward to death.
+
+     "And behold, at the place of execution, a beautiful child, with
+     hair like the sunbeam, stood beside her, and in his hand was a
+     basket containing three fresh roses and three apples. And she said,
+     'Take these to Theophilus, and tell him that Dorothea waits for him
+     in the garden from whence they came.'
+
+     "And the child sought Theophilus, and gave him the flowers and the
+     fruits, saying, 'Dorothea sends thee these,' and vanished. And the
+     heart of Theophilus melted, and he ate of the fruit from heaven,
+     and was converted and professed himself one of Christ's servants,
+     so that he also was martyred, and was translated into the heavenly
+     garden."--_Legend._
+
+This story is told in nearly all the pictures of Sta. Dorotea.
+
+Hence we reach the _Ponte Sisto_, built 1473--75 by Sixtus IV. in the
+place of the Pons Janiculensis, (or, according to Ampère, the Pons
+Antoninus,) which Caracalla had erected to reach the garden in the
+Trastevere, formerly belonging to his brother Geta,--but which was known
+as the Pons Fractus after a flood had destroyed part of it in 792. The
+Acts of Eusebius describe the many Christian martyrdoms which took place
+from this bridge. S. Symphorosa under Hadrian, S. Sabas under Aurelian,
+S. Calepodius under Alexander, and S. Anthimius under Diocletian, were
+thrown into the Tiber from hence, with many others, whose bodies,
+usually drifting to the island then called Lycaonia, were recovered
+there by their faithful disciples.[362] An inscription upon the bridge
+begs the prayers of the passengers for its papal founder.
+
+Beautiful views may be obtained from this bridge,--on the one side, of
+the island, of the temple of Vesta, and the Alban hills; on the other,
+of St. Peter's, rising behind the Farnesina Gardens, and the grand mass
+of the Farnese Palace, towering above the less important buildings.
+
+     "They had reached the bridge and stopped to look at the view,
+     perhaps the most beautiful of all those seen from the Roman
+     bridges. Looking towards the hills, the Tiber was spanned by Ponte
+     Rotto, under which the old black mills were turning ceaselessly,
+     almost level with the tawny water; the sunshine fell full on the
+     ruins of the Palatine, about the base of which had gathered a crowd
+     of modern buildings; a brick campanile, of the middle ages, rose
+     high above them against the blue sky, which was seen through its
+     open arches; beyond were the Latin Hills; on the other hand, St.
+     Peter's stood pre-eminent in the distance; nearer, a stack of
+     picturesque old houses were half hidden by orange-trees, where
+     golden fruit clustered thickly; women leant from the windows, long
+     lines of flapping clothes hung out to dry; below, the ferry-boat
+     was crossing the river, impelled by the current. Modern and ancient
+     Rome all mingled together--everywhere were thrilling names
+     connected with all that was most glorious in the past. The moderns
+     are richer than their ancestors, the past is theirs as well as the
+     present."--_Mademoiselle Mori._
+
+Close to the further entrance of the bridge, opposite the Via Giulia, is
+the _Fountain of the Ponte Sisto_, built by Paul V. from a design of
+Fontana. The water, which falls in one body from a niche in the wall of
+a palace, is discharged a second time from the mouths of two monsters
+below.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+THE TRE FONTANE AND S. PAOLO.
+
+     The Marmorata--Arco di S. Lazzaro--Protestant Cemetery--Pyramid of
+     Caius Cestius--Monte-Testaccio--Porta S. Paolo--Chapel of the
+     Farewell--The Tre Fontane (SS. Vincenzo ed Anastasio--Sta. Maria
+     Scala Coeli--S. Paolo alle Tre Fontane)--Basilica and Monastery
+     of S. Paolo.
+
+
+Beyond the Piazza Bocca della Verità, the _Via della Marmorata_ is
+spanned by an arch which nearly marks the site of the _Porta Trigemina_,
+by which Marius fled to Ostia before Sylla in B.C. 88. Near this stood
+the statue erected by public subscription to Minucius, whose jealousy
+brought about the execution of the patriot Mælius, B.C. 440. Here also
+was the temple of Jupiter Inventor, whose dedication was attributed to
+the gratitude of Hercules for the restoration of his cattle, carried off
+by Cacus to his cave on the neighbouring Aventine.
+
+It was at the Porta Trigemina that Camillus (B.C. 391), sent into exile
+to Ardea by the accusations of the plebs, stayed, and, stretching forth
+his hands to the Capitol, prayed to the gods who reigned there that if
+he was unjustly expelled, Rome might "one day have need of Camillus."
+
+Passing the arch, the road skirts the wooded escarpment of the
+Aventine, crowned by its three churches--Sta. Sabina, S. Alessio, and
+the Priorato.
+
+     "De ce côté, entre l'Aventin et le Tibre, hors de la porte
+     Trigemina, étaient divers marchés, notamment le marché aux bois, le
+     marché à la farine et au pain, les _horrea_, magasins de blés. Le
+     voisinage de ces marchés, de ces magasins et de l'emporium,
+     produisait un grand mouvement de transport et fournissait de
+     l'occupation à beaucoup de portefaix. Plaute[363] fait allusion à
+     ces porteurs de sacs de la porte Trigemina. On peut en voir encore
+     tous les jours remplir le même office au même lieu."--_Ampère,
+     Hist. Rom._ iv. 75.
+
+From the landing-place for modern Carrara marble, a new road on the
+right, planted with trees, leads along the river to the ancient
+_Marmorata_, discovered 1867--68, when many magnificent blocks of
+ancient marble were found buried in the mud of the Tiber. Recent
+excavations have laid bare the inclined planes by which the marbles were
+landed, and the projecting bars of stone with rings for mooring the
+marble vessels.
+
+In the neighbouring vineyard are the massive ruins of the _Emporium_, or
+magazine for merchandise, founded by M. Æmilius Lepidus and L. Æmilius
+Paulus, the ædiles in B.C. 186. Upon the ancient walls of this time is
+engrafted a small and picturesque winepress of the fifteenth century.
+The neighbouring vineyard is much frequented by marble collectors.
+
+A short distance beyond the turn to the Marmorata the main road is
+crossed by an ancient brick arch, called _Arco di S. Lazzaro_, or Arco
+della Salara, by the side of which is a hermitage.
+
+About half a mile beyond this we reach the _Porta S. Paolo_, built by
+Belisarius on the site of the Ancient Porta Ostiensis.
+
+It was here, just within the Ostian Gate, that the Emperor Claudius,
+returning from Ostia to take vengeance upon Messalina, was met by their
+two children, Octavia and Britannicus, accompanied by a vestal, who
+insisted upon the rights of her Order, and imperiously demanded that the
+empress should not be condemned undefended.
+
+     "Totila entra par la porte Asinaria et une autre fois par la porte
+     Ostiensis, aujourd'hui porte Saint-Paul; par la même porte,
+     Genséric, que la mer apportait, et qui, en s'embarquant, avait dit
+     à son pilote: 'Conduis-moi vers le rivage que menace la colère
+     divine.'"--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 325.
+
+Close to this, is the famous _Pyramid of Caius Cestius_. It is built of
+brick, coated with marble, and is 125 feet high, and 100 feet wide at
+its square basement. In the midst is a small sepulchral chamber, painted
+with arabesques. Two inscriptions on the exterior show that the Caius
+Cestius buried here was a prætor, a tribune of the people, and one of
+the "Epulones" appointed to provide the sacrificial feasts of the gods.
+He died about 30 B.C., leaving Agrippa as his executor, and desiring by
+his will that his body might be buried, wrapped up in precious stuffs.
+Agrippa, however, applied to him the law which forbade luxurious burial,
+and spent the money, partly upon the pyramid and partly upon erecting
+two colossal statues in honour of the deceased, of which the pedestals
+have been found near the tomb. In the middle ages this was supposed to
+be the sepulchre of Remus.
+
+     "Cette pyramide, sauf les dimensions, est absolument semblable aux
+     pyramides d'Égypte. Si l'on pouvait encore douter que celles-ci
+     étaient des tombeaux, l'imitation des pyramides égyptiennes dans un
+     tombeau romain serait un argument de plus pour prouver qu'elles
+     avaient une destination funéraire. La chambre qu'on a trouvée dans
+     le monument de Cestius était décorée de peintures dont quelques
+     unes ne sont pas encore effacées. C'était la coutume des peuples
+     anciens, notamment des Egyptiens et des Etrusques, de peindre
+     l'intérieur des tombeaux, que l'on fermait ensuite soigneusement.
+     Ces peintures, souvent très-considérables, n'étaient que pour le
+     mort, et ne devaient jamais être vues par l'oeil d'un vivant. Il
+     en était certainement ainsi de celles qui décoraient la chambre
+     sépulchrale de la pyramide de Cestius, car cette chambre n'avait
+     aucune entrée. L'ouverture par laquelle on y pénètre aujourd'hui
+     est moderne. On avait déposé le corps ou les cendres avant de
+     terminer le monument, on acheva ensuite de la bâtir jusqu'au
+     sommet."--_Ampère, Emp._ i. 347.
+
+     "St. Paul was led to execution beyond the city walls, upon the road
+     to Ostia. As he issued forth from the gate, his eyes must have
+     rested for a moment on that sepulchral pyramid which stood beside
+     the road, and still stands unshattered, amid the wreck of so many
+     centuries, upon the same spot. That spot was then only the
+     burial-place of a single Roman; it is now the burial-place of many
+     Britons. The mausoleum of Caius Cestius rises conspicuously amongst
+     humbler graves, and marks the site where Papal Rome suffers her
+     Protestant sojourners to bury their dead. In England and in
+     Germany, in Scandinavia and in America, there are hearts which turn
+     to that lofty cenotaph as the sacred point of their whole horizon;
+     even as the English villager turns to the grey church tower, which
+     overlooks the grave-stones of his kindred. Among the works of man,
+     that pyramid is the only surviving witness of the martyrdom of St.
+     Paul; and we may thus regard it with yet deeper interest, as a
+     monument unconsciously erected by a pagan to the memory of a
+     martyr. Nor let us think they who lie beneath its shadow are indeed
+     resting (as degenerate Italians fancy) in unconsecrated ground.
+     Rather let us say, that a spot where the disciples of Paul's faith
+     now sleep in Christ, so near the soil once watered by his blood, is
+     doubly hallowed; and that their resting-place is most fitly
+     identified with the last earthly journey, and the dying glance of
+     their own patron saint, the apostle of the Gentiles."--_Conybeare
+     and Howson._
+
+At the foot of the Pyramid is the _Old Protestant Cemetery_, a lovely
+spot, now closed. Here is the grave of Keats, with the inscription:
+
+     "This grave contains all that was mortal of a young English poet,
+     who, on his death-bed, in the bitterness of his heart at the
+     malicious power of his enemies, desired these words to be engraven
+     on his tombstone: 'Here lies one whose name was writ in water.'
+     February 24, 1821."
+
+    "Go thou to Rome--at once the paradise,
+    The grave, the city, and the wilderness;
+    And where its wrecks like shattered mountains rise,
+    And flowering weeds, and fragrant copses dress
+    The bones of desolation's nakedness,
+    Pass, till the spirit of the spot shall lead
+    Thy footsteps to a slope of green access,
+    Where, like an infant's smile, over the dead,
+    A light of laughing flowers along the grass is spread,
+
+    "And grey walls moulder round, on which dull Time
+    Feeds, like slow fire upon a hoary brand;
+    And one keen pyramid, with wedge sublime,
+    Pavilioning the dust of him who planned
+    This refuge for his memory, doth stand
+    Like flame transformed to marble; and beneath
+    A field is spread, on which a newer band
+    Have pitched in Heaven's smile their camp of death,
+    Welcoming him we lose with scarce extinguished breath."
+
+    _Shelley's Adonais._
+
+Very near the grave of Keats is that of Augustus William Hare, the elder
+of the two brothers who wrote the "Guesses at Truth," ob. 1834.
+
+     "When I am inclined to be serious, I love to wander up and down
+     before the tomb of Caius Cestius. The Protestant burial-ground is
+     there, and most of the little monuments are erected to the
+     young--young men of promise, cut off when on their travels full of
+     enthusiasm, full of enjoyment; brides, in the bloom of their
+     beauty, on their first journey; or children borne from home in
+     search of health. This stone was placed by his fellow-travellers,
+     young as himself, who will return to the house of his parents
+     without him; that, by a husband or a father, now in his native
+     country. His heart is buried in that grave.
+
+     "It is a quiet and sheltered nook, covered in the winter with
+     violets; and the pyramid, that overshadows it, gives it a classic
+     and singularly solemn air. You feel an interest there, a sympathy
+     you were not prepared for. You are yourself in a foreign land; and
+     they are for the most part your countrymen. They call upon you in
+     your mother tongue--in English--in words unknown to a native, known
+     only to yourself: and the tomb of Cestius, that old majestic pile,
+     has this also in common with them. It is itself a stranger among
+     strangers. It has stood there till the language spoken round about
+     it has changed; and the shepherd, born at the foot, can read the
+     inscription no longer."--_Rogers._
+
+The _New Burial Ground_ was opened in 1825. It extends for some distance
+along the slope of the hill under the old Aurelian Wall, and is
+beautifully shaded by cypresses, and carpeted with violets. Amid the
+forest of tombs we may notice that which contains the heart of Shelley
+(his body having been burnt upon the shore at Lerici, where it was
+thrown up by the sea), inscribed:
+
+     "Percy Bysshe Shelley, Cor Cordium. Natus IV. Aug. MDCCXCII. Obiit
+     VIII. Jul. MDCCCXXII.
+
+    'Nothing of him that doth fade,
+    But doth suffer a sea change
+    Into something rich and strange.'"
+
+Another noticeable tomb is that of Gibson the sculptor, who died 1868.
+
+From the fields in front of the cemetery (_Prati del Popolo Romano_)
+rises the _Monte Testaccio_, only 160 feet in height, but worth
+ascending for the sake of the splendid view it affords. The
+extraordinary formation of this hill, which is entirely composed of
+broken pieces of pottery, has long been an unexplained bewilderment.
+
+     "Le Monte-Testaccio est pour moi des nombreux problèmes qu'offrent
+     les antiquités romaines le plus difficile à résoudre. On ne peut
+     s'arrêter à discuter sérieusement la tradition d'après laquelle il
+     aurait été formé avec les débris des vases contenant les tributs
+     qu'apportaient à Rome les peuples soumis par elle. C'est là
+     évidemment une légende du moyen âge née du souvenir de la grandeur
+     romaine et imaginée pour exprimer la haute idée qu'on s'en
+     faisait, comme on avait imaginé ces statues de provinces placées au
+     Capitole, et dont chacune portait au cou une cloche qui sonnait
+     tout-à-coup d'elle-même, quand une province se soulevait, comme on
+     a prétendu que le lit du Tibre était pavé en airain par les tributs
+     apportés aux empereurs romains. Il faut donc chercher une autre
+     explication."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 386.
+
+Just outside the Porta S. Paolo is (on the right) a vineyard which
+belonged to Sta. Francesca Romana (born 1384, canonized 1608 by Paul
+V.).
+
+     "Instead of entering into the pleasures to which her birth and
+     riches entitled her, Sta. Francesca went every day, disguised in a
+     coarse woollen garment, to her vineyard, and collected faggots,
+     which she brought into the city on her head, and distributed to the
+     poor. If the weight exceeded her womanly strength, she loaded
+     therewith an ass, following after on foot in great
+     humility."--_Mrs. Jameson's Monastic Orders._
+
+A straight road a mile and a half long leads from the gate to the
+basilica. Half way (on the left) is the humble chapel which commemorates
+the farewell of St. Peter and St. Paul on their way to martyrdom,
+inscribed:
+
+     "In this place SS. Peter and Paul separated on their way to
+     martyrdom.
+
+     "And Paul said to Peter, 'Peace be with thee, Foundation of the
+     Church, Shepherd of the flock of Christ.'
+
+     "And Peter said to Paul, 'Go in peace, Preacher of good tidings,
+     and Guide of the salvation of the just.'"[364]
+
+Passing the basilica, which looks outside like a very ugly railway
+station, let us visit the scene of the martyrdom, before entering the
+grand church which arose in consequence.
+
+The road we now traverse is the scene of the legend of Plautilla.
+
+     "St. Paul was beheaded by the sword outside the Ostian gate, about
+     two miles from Rome, at a place called the Aqua Salvias, now the
+     'Tre Fontane.' The legend of his death relates that a certain Roman
+     matron named Plautilla, one of the converts of St. Peter, placed
+     herself on the road by which St. Paul passed to his martyrdom, to
+     behold him for the last time; and when she saw him she wept
+     greatly, and besought his blessing. The apostle then, seeing her
+     faith, turned to her, and begged that she would give him her veil
+     to blind his eyes when he should be beheaded, promising to return
+     it to her after his death. The attendants mocked at such a promise,
+     but Plautilla, with a woman's faith and charity, taking off her
+     veil, presented it to him. After his martyrdom, St. Paul appeared
+     to her, and restored the veil stained with his blood.
+
+     "In the ancient representations of the martyrdom of St. Paul, the
+     legend of Plautilla is seldom omitted. In the picture by Giotto in
+     the sacristy of St. Peter's, Plautilla is seen on an eminence in
+     the background, receiving the veil from the hands of St. Paul, who
+     appears in the clouds above; the same representation, but little
+     varied, is executed in bas-relief on the bronze doors of St.
+     Peter's."--_Jameson's Sacred Art._
+
+The lane which leads to the Tre Fontane turns off to the left a little
+beyond S. Paolo.
+
+     "In all the melancholy vicinity of Rome, there is not a more
+     melancholy spot than the Tre Fontane. A splendid monastery, rich
+     with all the offerings of Christendom, once existed there: the
+     ravages of that mysterious scourge of the Campagna, the malaria,
+     have rendered it a desert; three ancient churches and some ruins
+     still exist, and a few pale monks wander about the swampy dismal
+     confines of the hollow in which they stand. In winter you approach
+     them through a quagmire; in summer, you dare not breathe in their
+     pestilential vicinity; and yet there is a sort of dead beauty about
+     the place, something hallowed as well as sad, which seizes on the
+     fancy."--_Jameson's Sacred Art._
+
+The convent was bestowed in 1867 by Pius IX. upon the French Trappists,
+and twelve brethren of the Order went to reside there. Entering the
+little enclosure, the first church on the right is _Sta. Maria Scala
+Coeli_, supposed to occupy the site of the cemetery of S. Zeno, in
+which the 12,000 Christians employed in building the Baths of Diocletian
+were buried. The present edifice was the work of Vignola and Giacomo
+della Porta in 1582. The name is derived from the legend that here St.
+Bernard had a vision of a ladder which led to heaven, its foot resting
+on this church, and of angels on the ladder leading upwards the souls
+whom his prayers had redeemed from purgatory. The mosaics in the apse
+were the work of _F. Zucchero_, in the sixteenth century, and are
+perhaps the best of modern mosaics. They represent the saints Zeno,
+Bernard, Vincenzo, and Anastasio, adored by Pope Clement VIII. and
+Cardinal Aldobrandini, under whom the remodelling of the church took
+place.
+
+The second church is the basilica of _SS. Vincenzo ed Anastasio_,
+founded by Honorius I. (625), and restored by Honorius III. (1221), when
+it was consecrated afresh. It is approached by an atrium with a
+penthouse roof, supported by low columns, and adorned with decaying
+frescoes, among which the figure of Honorius III. may be made out. The
+interior, which reeks with damp, is almost entirely of the twelfth
+century. The pillars are adorned with coarse frescoes of the apostles.
+
+     "S. Vincenzo alle Tre Fontane so far deviates from the usual
+     basilican arrangement as almost to deserve the appellation of
+     gothic. It has the same defect as all the rest--its pier arches
+     being too low, for which there is no excuse here; but both
+     internally and externally it shows a uniformity of design, and a
+     desire to make every part ornamental, that produces a very pleasing
+     effect, although the whole is merely of brick, and ornament is so
+     sparingly applied as only just to prevent the building sinking to
+     the class of mere utilitarian erections."--_Fergusson's Handbook of
+     Architecture,_ vol. ii.
+
+     The two saints whose relics are said to repose here were in no wise
+     connected in their lifetime. S. Vincenzo, who suffered A.D. 304,
+     was a native of Saragossa, cruelly tortured to death at Valencia,
+     under Dacian, by being racked on a slow fire over a gridiron, "of
+     which the bars were framed like scythes." His story is told with
+     horrible detail by Prudentius. Anastasius, who died A.D. 628, was a
+     native of Persia, who had become a Christian and taken the monastic
+     habit at a convent near Jerusalem. He was tortured and finally
+     strangled, under Chosroes, at Barsaloe, in Assyria. He is not known
+     to be represented anywhere in art, save in the almost obliterated
+     frescoes in the atrium of this church.
+
+The third church, _S. Paolo alle Tre Fontane_, was built by Giacomo
+della Porta for Cardinal Aldobrandini in 1590. It contains the pillars
+to which St. Paul is said to have been bound, the block of marble upon
+which he is supposed to have been beheaded, and the three fountains
+which sprang forth, wherever the severed head struck the earth during
+three bounds which it made after decapitation. In proof of this story,
+it is asserted that the water of the first of these fountains is still
+warm, of the second tepid, of the third cold. Three modern altars above
+the fountains are each decorated with a head of the apostle in
+bas-relief.
+
+     "A la première, l'âme vient à l'instant même de s'échapper du
+     corps. Ce chef glorieux est plein de vie! A la seconde, les ombres
+     de la mort couvrent déjà ses admirables traits; à la troisième, le
+     sommeil éternel les a envahis, et, quoique demeurés tout rayonnants
+     de beauté, ils disent, sans parler, que dans ce monde ces lèvres ne
+     s'entr'ouvriront plus, et que ce regard d'aigle s'est voilé pour
+     toujours."--_Une Chrétienne à Rome._[365]
+
+The pavement is an ancient mosaic representing the Four Seasons, brought
+from the excavations at Ostia. The interior of this church has been
+beautified at the expense of a French nobleman, and the whole enclosure
+of the Tre Fontane has been improved by Mgr. de Merode.
+
+     "As the martyr and his executioners passed on (from the Ostian
+     gate), their way was crowded with a motley multitude of goers and
+     comers between the metropolis and its harbour--merchants hastening
+     to superintend the unlading of their cargoes--sailors eager to
+     squander the profits of their last voyage in the dissipations of
+     the capital--officials of the government charged with the
+     administration of the provinces, or the command of the legions on
+     the Euphrates or the Rhine--Chaldean astrologers--Phrygian
+     eunuchs--dancing-girls from Syria, with their painted
+     turbans--mendicant priests from Egypt, howling for Osiris--Greek
+     adventurers, eager to coin their national cunning into Roman
+     gold--representatives of the avarice and ambition, the fraud and
+     lust, the superstition and intelligence, of the Imperial world.
+     Through the dust and tumult of that busy throng, the small troop of
+     soldiers threaded their way silently, under the bright sky of an
+     Italian midsummer. They were marching, though they knew it not, in
+     a procession more really triumphal than any they had ever followed,
+     in the train of general or emperor, along the Sacred Way. Their
+     prisoner, now at last and for ever delivered from captivity,
+     rejoiced to follow his Lord 'without the gate.' The place of
+     execution was not far distant, and there the sword of the headsman
+     ended his long course of sufferings, and released that heroic soul
+     from that feeble body. Weeping friends took up his corpse, and
+     carried it for burial to those subterranean labyrinths, where,
+     through many ages of oppression, the persecuted Church found refuge
+     for the living, and sepulchres for the dead.
+
+     "Thus died the apostle, the prophet, and the martyr, bequeathing to
+     the Church, in her government, and her discipline, the legacy of
+     his apostolic labours; leaving his prophetic words to be her living
+     oracles; pouring forth his blood to be the seed of a thousand
+     martyrdoms. Thenceforth, among the glorious company of the
+     apostles, among the goodly fellowship of the prophets, among the
+     noble army of martyrs, his name has stood pre-eminent. And
+     wheresoever the holy Church throughout all the world doth
+     acknowledge God, there Paul of Tarsus is revered, as the great
+     teacher of a universal redemption and a catholic religion--the
+     herald of glad tidings to all mankind."--_Conybeare and Howson_.
+
+Let us now return to the grand Basilica which arose to commemorate the
+martyrdom on this desolate site, and which is now itself standing alone
+on the edge of the Campagna, entirely deserted except by a few monks
+who linger in its monastery through the winter months, but take flight
+to St. Calisto before the pestilential malaria of the summer,--though in
+the middle ages it was not so, when S. Paolo was surrounded by the
+flourishing fortified suburb of Joanopolis (so called from its founder,
+John VIII.), whose possession was sharply contested in the wars between
+the popes and anti-popes.[366]
+
+The first church on this site was built in the time of Constantine, on
+the site of the vineyard of the Roman matron Lucina, where she first
+gave a burial-place to the apostle. This primal oratory was enlarged
+into a basilica in 386 by the emperors Valentinian II. and Theodosius.
+The church was restored by Leo III. (795--816), and every succeeding
+century increased its beauty and magnificence. The sovereigns of
+England, before the Reformation, were protectors of this basilica--as
+those of France are of St. John Lateran, and of Spain of Sta. Maria
+Maggiore--and the emblem of the Order of the Garter may still be seen
+amongst its decorations.
+
+     "The very abandonment of this huge pile, standing in solitary
+     grandeur on the banks of the Tiber, was one source of its value.
+     While it had been kept in perfect repair, little or nothing had
+     been done to modernize it, and alter its primitive form and
+     ornaments, excepting the later addition of some modern chapels
+     above the transept; it stood naked and almost rude, but
+     unencumbered with the lumpish and tasteless plaster encasement of
+     the old basilica in a modern Berninesque church, which had
+     disfigured the Lateran cathedral under pretence of supporting it.
+     It remained genuine, though bare, as S. Apollinare in Classe, at
+     Ravenna, the city eminently of unspoiled basilicas. No chapels,
+     altars, or mural monuments softened the severity of its out-*lines;
+     only the series of papal portraits, running round the upper line of
+     the walls, redeemed this sternness. But the unbroken files of
+     columns along each side, carried the eye forward to the great
+     central object, the altar and its 'Confession;' while the secondary
+     row of pillars, running behind the principal ones, gave depth and
+     shadow, mass and solidity, to back up the noble avenue along which
+     one glanced."--_Cardinal Wiseman._
+
+On the 15th of July, 1823, this magnificent basilica was almost totally
+destroyed by fire, on the night which preceded the death of Pope Pius
+VII.
+
+     "Quelque-chose de mystérieux s'est lié dans l'esprit des Romains à
+     l'incendie de St. Paul, et les gens à l'imagination de ce peuple
+     parlent avec ce sombre plaisir qui tient à la mélancolie, ce
+     sentiment si rare en Italie, et si fréquent en Allemagne. Dans le
+     grand nef, sur le mur, au dessus des colonnes, se trouvait la
+     longue suite des portraits de tous les papes, et le peuple de Rome
+     voyait avec inquiétude qu'il n'y avait plus de place pour le
+     portrait du successeur de Pie VII. De là les fruits de la
+     suppression du saint-siège. Le vénérable pontife, qui était presqu'
+     un martyre aux yeux de ses sujets, touchait à ses derniers moments
+     lorsqu'arriva l'incendie de Saint-Paul. Il eut lieu dans la nuit du
+     15 au 16 Juillet, 1823; cette même nuit, le pape, presque mourant,
+     fut agité par un songe, qui lui présentait sans cesse un grand
+     malheur arrivé à l'église de Rome. Il s'éveilla en sursaut
+     plusieurs fois, et demanda s'il n'était rien arrivé de nouveau. Le
+     lendemain, pour ne pas aggraver son état, on lui cacha l'incendie,
+     et il est mort après sans l'avoir jamais su."--_Stendhal_, ii. 94.
+
+     "Not a word was said to the dying Pius VII. of the destruction of
+     St. Paul. For at St. Paul's he had lived as a quiet monk, engaged
+     in study and in teaching, and he loved the place with the force of
+     an early attachment. It would have added a mental pang to his
+     bodily sufferings to learn the total destruction of that venerable
+     sanctuary, in which he had drawn down by prayer the blessings of
+     heaven on his youthful labour."--_Wiseman, Life of Pius VII._
+
+The restoration of the basilica was immediately begun, and a large
+contribution levied for the purpose from all Roman Catholic countries.
+In 1854 it was re-opened in its present form by Pius IX. Its exterior is
+below contempt; its interior, supported by eighty granite columns, is
+most striking and magnificent, but it is cold and uninteresting when
+compared with the ancient structure, "rich with inestimable remains of
+ancient art, and venerable from a thousand associations."[367]
+
+If we approach the basilica by the door on the side of the monastery, we
+enter, first, a portico, containing a fine statue of Gregory XVI., and
+many fragments of the ancient mosaics, collected after the fire;--then,
+a series of small chapels which were not burnt, from the last of which
+ladies can look into the beautiful _cloister_ of the twelfth century,
+which they are not permitted to enter, but which men may visit (through
+the sacristy), and inspect its various architectural remains, and a fine
+sarcophagus, adorned with reliefs of the story of Apollo and Marsyas.
+
+The church is entered by the south end of the transept. Hence we look
+down upon the nave (306 feet long and 222 wide) with its four ranges of
+granite columns (quarried near the Lago Maggiore), surmounted by a
+mosaic series of portraits of the popes, each five feet in
+diameter,--most of them of course being imaginary. The grand triumphal
+arch which separates the transept from the nave is a relic of the old
+basilica, and was built by Galla-Placidia, sister of Honorius, in 440.
+On the side towards the nave it is adorned with a mosaic of Christ
+adored by the twenty-four elders, and the four beasts of the
+Revelation;--on that towards the transept by the figure of the Saviour,
+between St Peter and St. Paul.
+
+It bears two inscriptions, the first:
+
+    "Theodosius coepit,--perfecit Honorius aulam
+    Doctoris mundi sacratam corpore Pauli."
+
+The other, especially interesting as the only inscription commemorating
+the great pope who defended Rome against Attila:
+
+    "Placidiæ pia mens operis decus homne (_sic_) paterni
+    Gaudet pontificis studio splendere Leonis."
+
+The mosaics of the tribune, also preserved from the fire, were designed
+by _Cavallini_, a pupil of Giotto, in the thirteenth century, and were
+erected by Honorius III. They represent the Saviour with St. Peter and
+St Andrew on the right, and St Paul and St Luke on the left,--and
+beneath these twelve apostles and two angels. The Holy Innocents
+(supposed to be buried in this church!) are represented lying at the
+feet of our Saviour.
+
+     "In the mosaics of the old basilica of S. Paolo the Holy Innocents
+     were represented by a group of small figures holding palms, and
+     placed immediately beneath the altar or throne, sustaining the
+     gospel, the cross, and the instruments of the passion of our Lord.
+     Over these figures was the inscription, H. I. S.
+     INNOCENTES."--_Jameson's Sacred Art._
+
+Beneath the triumphal arch stands the ugly modern baldacchino, which
+encloses the ancient altar canopy, erected, as its inscription tells us,
+by Arnolphus and his pupil Petrus, in 1285. In front is the
+"Confession," where the Apostle of the Gentiles is believed to repose.
+The baldacchino is inscribed:
+
+    "Tu es vas electionis,
+    Sancte Paule Apostole,
+    Prædicator veritatis
+    In universo mundo."
+
+It is supported by four pillars of Oriental alabaster, presented by
+Mehemet Ali, pasha of Egypt. The altars of malachite, at the ends of the
+transepts, were given by the Emperor Nicholas of Russia.
+
+     "Les schismatiques et les mussulmans eux-mêmes sont venus rendre
+     hommage à ce souverain de la parole, qui entraînait les peuples au
+     martyre et subjuguait toutes les nations."--_Une Chrétienne à
+     Rome._
+
+In a building so entirely modern, there are naturally few individual
+objects of interest. Among those saved[368] from the old basilica, is
+the magnificent paschal candlestick, covered with sculpture in
+high-relief. The altar at the south end of the transept has an
+altar-piece representing the Assumption, by _Agricola_, and statues of
+St. Benedict, _Baini_, and Sta. Scholastica, by _Tenerani_. Of the two
+chapels between this and the tribune, the first has a statue of St.
+Benedict by _Tenerani_; the second, the Cappella del Coro, was saved
+from the fire, and is by _Carlo Maderno_.
+
+The altar at the north end of the transept is dedicated to St. Paul, and
+has a picture of his conversion, by _Camuccini_. At the sides are
+statues of St. Gregory by _Laboureur_ and of S. Romualdo by _Stocchi_.
+Of the chapels between this and the tribune, the first, dedicated to St.
+Stephen, has a statue of the saint, by _Rinaldi_; the second is
+dedicated to St. Bridget (Brigitta Brahe), and contains the famous
+crucifix of Pietro Cavallini, which is said to have spoken to her in
+1370.
+
+     "Not far from the chancel is a beautiful chapel, dedicated to St.
+     Bridget, and ornamented with her statue in marble. During her
+     residence in Rome, she frequently came to pray in this church; and
+     here is preserved, as a holy relic, the cross from which, during
+     her ecstatic devotion, she seemed to hear a voice
+     proceeding."--_Frederika Bremer._
+
+The upper walls of the nave are decorated with frescoes by _Galiardi_,
+_Podesti_, and other modern artists.
+
+The two great festivals of St. Paul are solemnly observed in this
+basilica upon January 25 and June 30, and that of the Holy Innocents
+upon December 28.
+
+Very near S. Paolo, the main branch of the little river Almo, the
+"cursuque brevissimus Almo" of Ovid, falls into the Tiber. This is the
+spot where the priests of Cybele used to wash her statue and the sacred
+vessels of her temple, and to raise their loud annual lamentation for
+the death of her lover, the shepherd Atys:
+
+    "Est locus, in Tiberim quo lubricus influit Almo,
+      Et nomen magno perdit ab amne minor,
+    Illic purpurea canus cum veste sacerdos,
+      Almonis dominam sacraque lavit aquis."
+
+    _Ovid, Fast._ iv. 337.
+
+    "Phrygiæque matris Almo quà levat ferrum."
+
+    _Martial, Ep._ iii. 472.
+
+     "Un vieux prêtre de Cybèle, vêtu de pourpre, y lavait chaque année
+     la pierre sacrée de Pessinunte, tandis que d'autres prêtres
+     poussaient des hurlements, frappaient sur le tambour de basque
+     qu'on place aux mains de Cybèle, soufflaient avec fureur dans les
+     flûtes phrygiennes, et que l'on se donnait la discipline,--ni plus
+     ni moins qu'on le fait encore dans l'église des _Caravite_,--avec
+     des fouets garnis de petits cailloux ou d'osselets."--_Ampère,
+     Hist. Rom._ iii. 145.
+
+The Campagna on this side of Rome is perhaps more stricken by malaria
+than any other part, and is in consequence more utterly deserted. That
+this terrible scourge has followed upon the destruction of the villas
+and gardens which once filled the suburbs of Rome, and that it did not
+always exist here, is evident from the account of Pliny, who says:
+
+     "Such is the happy and beautiful amenity of the Campagna that it
+     seems to be the work of a rejoicing nature. For truly so it appears
+     in the vital and perennial salubrity of its atmosphere (_vitalis ac
+     perennis salubritatis coeli temperies_), in its fertile plains,
+     sunny hills, healthy woods, thick groves, rich varieties of trees,
+     breezy mountains, fertility in fruits, vines, and olives, its noble
+     flocks of sheep, abundant herds of cattle, numerous lakes, and
+     wealth of rivers and streams pouring in upon its many seaports, in
+     whose lap the commerce of the world lies, and which run largely
+     into the sea as it were to help mortals."
+
+Under the emperors, the town of Ostia (founded by Ancus Martius) reached
+such a degree of prosperity, that its suburbs are described as joining
+those of Rome, so that one magnificent street almost united the two.
+There is now, beyond S. Paolo, a road through a desert, only one human
+habitation breaking the utter solitude.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+THE VILLAS BORGHESE, MADAMA, AND MELLINI.
+
+     Protestant Churches--Villa Borghese--Raphael's Villa--Casino and
+     Villa of Papa Giulio--(Claude's
+     Villa--Arco-Oscuro--Acqua-Acetosa)--Chapel of St.
+     Andrew--Ponte-Molle (Castle of Crescenza--Prima Porta--The
+     Crimera--The Allia)--(The Via Cassia)--Villa Madama--Monte
+     Mario--Villa Mellini--Porta Angelica.
+
+
+Immediately outside the Porta del Popolo, on the left, are the English
+and American churches.
+
+     "As to the position selected for these buildings, it is to be
+     observed that, although restricted by the regulations of the Roman
+     Catholic hierarchy to a locality outside the walls, the greatest
+     possible attention has been paid to the convenience of the English,
+     the great majority of whose dwelling-houses are in this immediate
+     quarter. The English church in Rome, therefore, though nominally
+     outside the walls, is really, as regards centrality, in the very
+     heart of the city. The greatest possible facilities are afforded by
+     the authorities to our countrymen in all matters relating to the
+     establishment; and though the general behaviour of the Roman
+     inhabitants is such as to render the precaution almost unnecessary,
+     the protection of the police and military is invariably afforded
+     during the hours of divine service.... Whatever be the
+     disagreements on points of religious faith between Protestant and
+     Catholic, there is at least one point of feeling in common between
+     both in this respect; for the streets are tranquil, the shops are
+     shut, the demeanour of the people is decent and orderly, and,
+     notwithstanding the distance from England, Sunday feels more like
+     a Sunday at Rome than in any other town in Europe."--_Sir G. Head's
+     "Tour in Rome."_
+
+The papal government of Rome had more tolerance for a religion which was
+not its own than that of the early emperors. Augustus refused to allow
+the performance of Egyptian rites within a mile of the city walls.
+
+On the right of the Gate is the handsome entrance of the beautiful
+_Villa Borghese_, most liberally thrown open to the public on every day
+except Monday, when the Villa Doria is open.
+
+     "The entrance to the Villa Borghese is just outside the Porta del
+     Popolo. Passing beneath that not very impressive specimen of
+     Michael Angelo's architecture, a minute's walk will transport the
+     visitor from the small uneasy lava stones of the Roman pavement,
+     into broad, gravelled carriage drives, whence a little further
+     stroll brings him to the soft turf of a beautiful seclusion. A
+     seclusion, but seldom a solitude; for priest, noble, and populace,
+     stranger and native, all who breathe the Roman air, find free
+     admission, and come hither to taste the languid enjoyment of the
+     day-dream which they call life.
+
+     "The scenery is such as arrays itself to the imagination when we
+     read the beautiful old myths, and fancy a brighter sky, a softer
+     turf, a more picturesque arrangement of venerable trees, than we
+     find in the rude and untrained landscapes of the western world. The
+     ilex-trees, so ancient and time-honoured are they, seem to have
+     lived for ages undisturbed, and to feel no dread of profanation by
+     the axe anymore than overthrow by the thunder-stroke. It has
+     already passed out of their dreamy old memories that only a few
+     years ago they were grievously imperilled by the Gauls' last
+     assault upon the walls of Rome. As if confident in the long peace
+     of their lifetime, they assume attitudes of evident repose. They
+     lean over the green turf in ponderous grace, throwing abroad their
+     great branches without danger of interfering with other trees,
+     though other majestic trees grow near enough for dignified society,
+     but too distant for constraint. Never was there a more venerable
+     quietude than that which sleeps among their sheltering boughs;
+     never a sweeter sunshine than that which gladdens the gentle bloom
+     which these leafy patriarchs strive to diffuse over the swelling
+     and subsiding lawns.
+
+     "In other portions of the grounds the stone pines lift their dense
+     clumps of branches upon a slender length of stem, so high that they
+     look like green islands in the air, flinging down a shadow upon the
+     turf so far off that you scarcely know which tree has made it.
+
+     "Again, there are avenues of cypress, resembling dark flames of
+     huge funeral candles, which spread dusk and twilight round about
+     them instead of cheerful radiance. The more open spots are all
+     a-bloom, early in the season, with anemones of wondrous size, both
+     white and rose-coloured, and violets that betray themselves by
+     their rich fragrance, even if their blue eyes fail to meet your
+     own. Daisies, too, are abundant, but larger than the modest little
+     English flower, and therefore of small account.
+
+     "These wooded and flowery lawns are more beautiful than the finest
+     English park scenery, more touching, more impressive, through the
+     neglect that leaves nature so much to her own ways and methods.
+     Since man seldom interferes with her, she sets to work in her quiet
+     way and makes herself at home. There is enough of human care, it is
+     true, bestowed long ago, and still bestowed, to prevent wildness
+     from growing into deformity; and the result is an ideal landscape,
+     a woodland scene that seems to have been projected out of the
+     poet's mind. If the ancient Faun were other than a mere creation of
+     old poetry, and could reappear anywhere, it must be in such a scene
+     as this.
+
+     "In the openings of the wood there are fountains plashing into
+     marble basons, the depths of which are shaggy with water-weeds; or
+     they tumble like natural cascades from rock to rock, sending their
+     murmur afar, to make the quiet and silence more appreciable.
+     Scattered here and there with careless artifice, stand old altars,
+     bearing Roman inscriptions. Statues, grey with the long corrosion
+     of even that soft atmosphere, half hide and half reveal themselves,
+     high on pedestals, or perhaps fallen and broken on the turf.
+     Terminal figures, columns of marble or granite porticoes and
+     arches, are seen in the vistas of the wood-paths, either veritable
+     relics of antiquity, or with so exquisite a touch of artful ruin on
+     them that they are better than if really antique. At all events,
+     grass grows on the tops of the shattered pillars, and weeds and
+     flowers root themselves in the chinks of the massive arches and
+     fronts of temples, as if this were the thousandth summer since
+     their winged seeds alighted there.
+
+     "What a strange idea--what a needless labour--to construct
+     artificial ruins in Rome, the native soil of ruin! But even these
+     sportive imitations, wrought by man in emulation of what time has
+     done to temples and palaces, are perhaps centuries old, and,
+     beginning as illusions, have grown to be venerable in sober
+     earnest. The result of all is a scene, such as is to be found
+     nowhere save in these princely villa-residences in the
+     neighbourhood of Rome; a scene that must have required generations
+     and ages, during which growth, decay, and man's intelligence
+     wrought kindly together, to render it so gently wild as we behold
+     it now.
+
+     "The final charm is bestowed by the malaria. There is a piercing,
+     thrilling, delicious kind of regret in the idea of so much beauty
+     being thrown away, or only enjoyable at its half-development, in
+     winter and early spring, and never to be dwelt amongst, as the home
+     scenery of any human being. For if you come hither in summer, and
+     stray through these glades in the golden sunset, fever walks
+     arm-in-arm with you, and death awaits you at the end of the dim
+     vista. Thus the scene is like Eden in its loveliness; like Eden,
+     too, in the fatal spell that removes it beyond the scope of man's
+     actual possessions."--_Transformation_.
+
+     "Oswald et Corinne terminèrent leur voyage de Rome par la
+     Villa-Borghèse, celui de tous les jardins et de tous les palais
+     romains où les splendeurs de la nature et des arts sont rassemblées
+     avec le plus de goût et d'éclat. On y voit des arbres de toutes les
+     espèces et des eaux magnifiques. Une réunion incroyable de statues,
+     de vases, de sarcophages antiques, se mêlent avec la fraîcheur de
+     la jeune nature du sud. La mythologie des anciens y semble ranimée.
+     Les naïades sont placées sur le bord des ondes, les nymphes dans
+     les bois dignes d'elles, les tombeaux sous les ombrages élyséens;
+     la statue d'Esculape est au milieu d'une île; celle de Vénus semble
+     sortir des ondes; Ovide et Virgile pourraient se promener dans ce
+     beau lieu; et se croire encore au siècle d'Auguste. Les
+     chefs-d'oeuvre de sculpture que renferme le palais, lui donnent
+     une magnificence à jamais nouvelle. On aperçoit de loin à travers
+     les arbres, la ville de Rome et Saint-Pierre, et la campagne, et
+     les longues arcades, débris des aqueducs qui transportaient les
+     sources des montagnes dans l'ancienne Rome. Tout est là pour la
+     pensée, pour l'imagination, pour la rêverie.
+
+     "Les sensations les plus pures se confondent avec les plaisirs de
+     l'âme, et donnent l'idée d'un bonheur parfait; mais quand on
+     demande, pourquoi ce séjour ravissant n'est-il pas habité? l'on
+     vous répond que le mauvais air (_la cattiva aria_) ne permet pas
+     d'y vivre pendant l'été."--_Madame de Staël._
+
+The _Casino_, at the further end of the villa, built by Cardinal Scipio
+Borghese, the favourite nephew of Paul V., contains a collection of
+sculpture. The first room entered is a great hall, with a ceiling
+painted by _Mario Rossi_, and a floor paved with an ancient mosaic
+discovered at the Torre Nuova (one of the principal Borghese farms) in
+1835.
+
+     "Cette mosaïque fort curieuse nous offre et les combats des
+     gladiateurs entre eux et leurs luttes avec les animaux féroces.
+     Cette mosaïque est d'un dessin aussi barbare que les scènes
+     représentées; tout est en harmonie, le sujet et le tableau. Le
+     sentiment de répulsion qu'inspire la cruauté romaine n'en est que
+     plus complet; celle-ci n'est point adoucie par l'art et paraît dans
+     toute sa laideur.
+
+     "On voit les gladiateurs poursuivre, s'attaquer, se massacrer,
+     couverts d'armures qui ressemblent à celle des chevaliers: vous
+     diriez une odieuse parodie du moyen âge. Dans le corps de l'un des
+     combattants un glaive est enfoncé. Des cadavres sont gisant parmi
+     les flaques de sang; à côté d'eux est le [Greek: Th] fatal,
+     initiale du mot grec [Greek: Thanatos]--à laquelle leur juge
+     impitoyable, le peuple, les a condamnés; du grec partout. Le maître
+     excite ses élèves on leur montrant le fouet et la palme; les
+     vainqueurs élèvent leurs épées, et sans doute la foule applaudit.
+     Ils ont un air de triomphe. Ce sont des acteurs renommés. Auprès de
+     chacun son nom est écrit; ces noms barbares ou étranges: l'un
+     s'appelle Buccibus, un autre Cupidor, un autre Licentiosus, avis
+     effronté aux dames romaines."--_Ampère_, iv. 31.
+
+The collection in this villa contains no exceedingly important statues.
+In the vestibule are some reliefs from the arch of Claudius in the
+Corso, destroyed in 1527. Leaving the great hall to the left we may
+notice:
+
+     _1st Room._--
+
+     IN THE CENTRE:
+
+     Juno Pronuba, from Monte Calvi.
+
+     _2nd Room._--
+
+     IN THE CENTRE:
+
+     A Fighting Amazon, on horseback.
+
+     _3rd Room._--
+
+     4. Daphne changed into a Laurel.
+
+     13. Anacreon, seated.
+
+     "La statue d'Anacréon est très-remarquable, elle ressemble à la
+     figure du poëte sur une médaille de Téos. Le style est simple et
+     grandiose, l'expression énergique plutôt que gracieuse, la draperie
+     est rude, la statue respire l'enthousiasme; ce n'est pas le faux
+     Anacréon que nous connaissons et dont les poésies sont postérieures
+     au moins en grande partie à la date du véritable; c'est le vieil et
+     primitif Anacréon; cet Anacréon-là ne vit plus que dans cet
+     énergique portrait, seule image de son inspiration véritable, dont
+     les produits authentiques ont presque entièrement
+     disparu."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 567.
+
+     _4th Room._--
+
+     A handsome gallery with paintings by _Marchetti_ and _De Angelis_,
+     adorned with porphyry busts of the twelve Cæsars.
+
+     32. Bronze statue of a boy.
+
+     _6th Room._--
+
+     IN THE CENTRE:
+
+     A Greek poet, probably Alcæus.
+
+     7. The Hermaphrodite; found near Sta. Maria Vittoria.
+
+     _7th Room._--
+
+     IN THE CENTRE:
+
+     Boy on a Dolphin.
+
+     "D'autres statues peuvent dériver de la grande composition maritime
+     de Scopas. Tel est la Palémon, assis sur un dauphin, de la villa
+     Borghese, d'après lequel a été évidemment conçu le Jonas de
+     l'église de Sainte-Marie du Peuple, qu'on attribue à
+     Raphaël."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 284.
+
+     _8th Room._--
+
+     1. Dancing Satyr.
+
+The _Upper Story_, reached by a winding staircase from the Galleria,
+contains:
+
+     _1st Room._--Three fine works by _Bernini_.
+
+     David with the sling: executed in his 18th year.
+
+     Apollo and Daphne.
+
+     Æneas carrying off Anchises: executed when the sculptor was only 15
+     years old.
+
+     _2nd Room._--
+
+     Filled with a collection of portraits, for the most part unknown.
+
+     Worthy of attention are the portraits of Paul V. by _Caravaggio_,
+     and of his father Marc-Antonio Borghese, attributed to _Guido_;
+     also the busts of Paul V. and of Cardinal Scipio Borghese, who
+     built the villa, by _Bernini_.
+
+     _5th Room._--
+
+     Statue of Princess Pauline Borghese, sister of Napoleon I., by
+     _Canova_, as Venus Victrix.
+
+     "Canova esteemed his statue of the Princess Borghese as one of his
+     best works. No one else could have an opportunity of judging of it,
+     for the prince, who certainly was not jealous of his wife's person,
+     was so jealous of her statue, that he kept it locked up in a room
+     in the Borghese Palace, of which he kept the key, and not a human
+     being, not even Canova himself, could get access to it."--_Eaton's
+     Rome._
+
+     Canova took Chantrey to see this statue by night, wishing, as was
+     his wont, to show it by the light of a single taper. Chantrey,
+     wishing to do honour to the artist, insisted upon holding the taper
+     for the best light himself, which gave rise to Moore's lines:
+
+    "When he, thy peer in art and fame,
+      Hung o'er the marble with delight;
+    And while his ling'ring hand would steal
+        O'er every grace the taper's rays,
+    Gave thee, with all the generous zeal
+    Such master-spirits only feel,
+        The best of fame--a rival's praise!"
+
+In the upper part of the grounds, not far from the walls of Rome, stood
+the Villa Olgiati, once the _Villa of Raphael_. It contained three rooms
+ornamented with frescoes from the hand of the great master. The best of
+these are now preserved in a room at the end of the gallery in the
+Borghese Palace. The villa was destroyed during the siege of Rome in
+1849, when many of the fine old trees were cut down on this side of the
+grounds.
+
+     "The Casino of Raphael was unfurnished, except with casks of wine,
+     and uninhabited, except by a _contadina_. The chamber which was the
+     bedroom of Raphael was entirely adorned with the work of his own
+     hands. It was a small pleasant apartment, looking out on a little
+     green lawn, fenced in with trees irregularly planted. The walls
+     were covered with arabesques, in various whimsical and beautiful
+     designs--such as the sports of children; Loves balancing themselves
+     on poles, or mounted on horseback, full of glee and mirth; Fauns
+     and Satyrs; Mercury and Minerva; flowers and curling tendrils, and
+     every beautiful composition that could suggest itself to a classic
+     imagination in its most sportive mood. The cornice was supported by
+     painted Caryatides. The coved roof was adorned with four
+     medallions, containing portraits of his mistress, the Fornarina--it
+     seemed as if he took pleasure in multiplying that beloved object,
+     so that wherever his eyes turned her image might meet them. There
+     were three other paintings, one representing a Terminus with a
+     target before it, and a troop of men shooting at it with bows and
+     arrows which they had stolen from unsuspecting Cupid, lying asleep
+     on the ground. The second represented a figure, apparently a god,
+     seated at the foot of a couch, with an altar before him, in a
+     temple or rotunda, and from the gardens which appeared in
+     perspective through its open intercolumniations, were seen
+     advancing a troop of gay young nymphs, bearing vases full of roses
+     upon their heads.[369] ... The last and best of these paintings
+     represented the nuptials of Alexander the Great and
+     Roxana."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+Just outside the Porta del Popolo, a small gate on the left of the Villa
+Borghese leads to the _Villa Esmeade_,--the property of an
+Englishman,--of considerable extent, and possessing beautiful views of
+Rome and the Sabine mountains from its heights, which are adorned with a
+few ancient statues and vases.
+
+Unpleasantly situated near the gate of the Villa Borghese is the
+Pig-market. Fortunately the manner of pig-killing at Rome is not so
+noisy as that in northern countries. The throats of the animals are not
+cut, but they are pierced under the left shoulder with a long pointed
+bodkin, which kills them almost instantly--no blood flowing. In a very
+few minutes a whole pen-full of pigs can be stilettoed in this
+manner--indeed, for any one interested in farming matters, the slaughter
+of the Roman pigs is a sight worth seeing.
+
+We now enter upon the ugly dusty road which leads in a straight line to
+the Milvian Bridge. By this road the last triumphal procession entered
+Rome--that of the Emperor Honorius and Stilicho (described by the poet
+Claudian) in A.D. 403--a whole century having then elapsed since the
+Romans had beheld their last triumph--that of Diocletian.
+
+Under the line of hills (Monte Parioli) on the right of the road are the
+_Catacombs of St. Valentine_. On the other side, the same hills are
+undermined by the _Catacombs of SS. Gianutus and Basilla_.
+
+Half a mile from the gate, rises conspicuously on the right of the road
+the _Casino of Papa Giulio_, with picturesque overhanging cornices and
+sculptured fountain. The courtyard has a quaint cloister. This is the
+"Villino," and, far behind, but formerly connected with it by a long
+corridor, is the _Villa of Papa Giulio_, containing several rooms with
+very richly decorated ceilings, painted by _Taddeo Zucchero_. Michael
+Angelo was consulted by the pope as to the building of this villa, and
+Vasari made drawings for it, but "the actual architect was Vignola, a
+modest genius, who had to suffer severely, together with all his
+fellow-workmen, from the tracasseries of the pope's favourite, the
+bishop Aliotti, whom the less-enduring Michael Angelo was wont to
+nickname Monsignor Tante Cose."
+
+     "The villa of Papa Giulio is still visited by the stranger.
+     Restored to the presence of those times, he ascends the spacious
+     steps to the gallery, whence he overlooks the whole extent of Rome,
+     from Monte Mario, with all the windings of the Tiber. The building
+     of this palace, the laying out of its gardens, were the daily
+     occupation of Pope Julius III. The place was designed by himself,
+     but was never completed: every day brought with it some new
+     suggestion or caprice, which the architects must at once set
+     themselves to realize. This pontiff desired to forward the
+     interests of his family; but he was not inclined to involve himself
+     in dangerous perplexities on their account. The pleasant blameless
+     life of his villa was that which was best suited to him. He gave
+     entertainments, which he enlivened with proverbial and other modes
+     of expression, that sometimes mingled blushes with the smiles of
+     his guests. In the important affairs of the Church and State, he
+     took no other share than was absolutely inevitable. This Pope
+     Julius died March 23, 1555."--_Ranke's Hist. of the Popes._
+
+     "C'est uniquement comme protecteur des arts et comme prince
+     magnifique que nous pouvons envisager Jules III. Sa mauvaise santé
+     lui faisait rechercher le repos et les douceurs d'une vie grande et
+     libre. Aussi avait-il fait édifier avec une sorte de tendresse
+     paternelle cette belle _villa_, qui est célèbre, dans l'histoire de
+     l'art, sous le nom de Vigne de pape Jules. Michel-Ange, Vasari,
+     Vignole en avaient dessiné les profils; les nymphées et les
+     fontaines étaient d'Ammanati; les peintures de Taddeo Zuccari. Du
+     haut d'une galerie élégante on découvrait les sept collines, et
+     d'ombreuses allées, tracées par Jules III., égaraient les pas du
+     vieillard dans ce dédale de tertres et de vallées qui sépare le
+     pont où périt Maxence de la ville éternelle."--_Gournerie, Rome
+     Chrétienne_, ii. 172.
+
+Pope Julius used to come hither, with all his court, from the Vatican by
+water. The richly-decorated barge, filled with venerable ecclesiastics,
+gliding between the osier-fringed banks of the yellow Tiber, with its
+distant line of churches and palaces, would make a fine subject for a
+picture.
+
+Nearly opposite the Casino Papa Giulio, on the further bank of the
+Tiber, is the picturesque classic _Villa of Claude Lorraine_, whither he
+was wont to retire during the summer months, residing in the winter in
+the Tempietto at the head of the Trinità steps. This villa is best seen
+from the walk by the river-side, which is reached by turning at once to
+the left on coming out of the Porta del Popolo. Hence it makes a good
+foreground to the view of the city and distant heights of the Janiculan.
+
+     "This road is called 'Poussin's Walk,' because the great painter
+     used to go along it from Rome to his villa near Ponte Molle. One
+     sees here an horizon such as one often finds in Poussin's
+     pictures."--_Frederika Bremer._
+
+Close to the Villa Papa Giulio is the tunnel called _Arco Oscuro_,
+passing which, a steep lane with a beautiful view towards St. Peter's,
+ascends between the hillsides of the Monte Parione, and descends on the
+other side (following the turn to the right) to the Tiber bank, about
+two miles from Rome, where is situated the _Acqua Acetosa_, a refreshing
+mineral spring like seltzer water, enclosed in a fountain erected by
+Bernini for Alexander VII. There is a lovely view from hence across the
+Campagna in the direction of Fidenæ (Castel Giubeleo) and the Tor di
+Quinto.
+
+     "A green hill, one of those bare table-lands so common in the
+     Campagna, rises on the right. Ascend it to where a broad furrow in
+     the slope seems to mark the site of an ancient road. You are on a
+     plateau, almost quadrangular in form, rising steeply to the height
+     of nearly two hundred feet above the Tiber, and isolated, save at
+     one angle, where it is united to other high ground by a narrow
+     isthmus. Not a tree--not a shrub on its turf-grown surface--not a
+     house--not a ruin--not one stone upon another, to tell you that the
+     site had been inhabited. Yet here once stood Antemnæ, the city of
+     many towers,[370] one of the most ancient of Italy![371] Not a
+     trace remains above ground. Even the broken pottery, that
+     infallible indicator of bygone civilisation, which marks the site
+     and determines the limits of habitation on many a now desolate spot
+     of classic ground, is here so overgrown with herbage that the eye
+     of an antiquary would alone detect it. It is a site strong by
+     nature, and well adapted for a city, as cities then were; for it is
+     scarcely larger than the Palatine Hill, which, though at first it
+     embraced the whole of Rome, was afterwards too small for a single
+     palace. It has a peculiar interest as one of the three cities of
+     Sabina,[372] whose daughters, ravished by the followers of Romulus,
+     became the mothers of the Roman race. Antemnæ was the nearest city
+     to Rome--only three miles distant--and therefore must have suffered
+     most from the inhospitable violence of the Romans."--_Dennis'
+     Cities of Etruria_, ch. iii.
+
+There is a walk--rather dangerous for carriages--by the river, from
+hence, to the Ponte Molle. Here Miss Bathurst was drowned by being
+thrown from her horse into the Tiber.
+
+The river bank presents a series of picturesque views, though the yellow
+Tiber in no way reminds us of Virgil's description:
+
+    "Cæruleus Tybris coelo gratissimus amnis."
+
+    _Æn._ viii. 64.
+
+Continuing to follow the main road, on the left is the round _Church of
+St. Andrew_, with a Doric portico, built by Vignola, in 1527, to
+commemorate the deliverance of Clement VII. from the Germans.
+
+Further, on the right, is another _Chapel in honour of St. Andrew's
+Head_.
+
+     "One of the most curious instances of relique worship occurred here
+     in the reign of Æneas Sylvius, Pope Pius II. The head of St. Andrew
+     was brought in stately procession from the fortress of Narni,
+     whither, as the Turks invaded the Morea, it had been brought for
+     safety from Patras. It was intended that the most glorious heads of
+     St. Peter and St. Paul should go forth to meet that of their
+     brother apostle. But the mass of gold which enshrined, the cumbrous
+     iron which protected these reliques, was too heavy to be moved; so,
+     without them, the pope, the cardinals, the whole population of
+     Rome, thronged forth to the meadows near the Milvian Bridge. The
+     pope made an eloquent address to the head, a hymn was sung
+     entreating the saint's aid in the discomfiture of the Turks. It
+     rested that day on the altar of Santa Maria del Popolo, and was
+     then conveyed through the city, decorated with all splendour, to
+     St. Peter's. Cardinal Bessarion preached a sermon, and the head was
+     deposited with those of his brother apostles under the
+     high-altar_."--Milman's Latin Christianity._
+
+A mile and a half from the gate, the Tiber is crossed by the _Ponte
+Molle_, built by Pius VII. in 1815, on the site and foundations of the
+Pons Milvius, which was erected B.C. 109 by the Censor M. Æmilius
+Scaurus. It was here that, on the night of December 3, B.C. 63, Cicero
+captured the emissaries of the Allobrogi, who were engaged in the
+conspiracy of Catiline. Hence, on October 27, A.D. 312, Maxentius was
+thrown into the river and drowned after his defeat by Constantine at the
+Saxa Rubra. It was on this occasion that the seven-branched candlestick
+of Jerusalem was dropped into the river, where it has probably ever
+since been embedded. The statues of Our Saviour and John the Baptist, at
+the further entrance of the bridge, are by _Mochi_.
+
+Here are a number of taverns and _Trattorie_, much frequented by the
+lower ranks of the Roman people, and for which especial open omnibuses
+run from the Porta del Popolo. Similar places of public amusement seem
+to have existed here from imperial times. Ovid describes the people
+coming out hither in troops by the Via Flaminia to celebrate the fête of
+Anna Perenna, an old woman who supplied the plebs with cakes during the
+retreat to the Mons Sacer, but who afterwards, from a similitude of
+names, was confounded with Anna, sister of Dido.
+
+    "Idibus est Annæ festum geniale Perennæ,
+      Haud procul a ripis, advena Tibri, tuis.
+    Plebs venit, ac virides passim disjecta per herbas
+      Potat; et accumbit cum pare quisque sua.
+    Sub Jove pars durat; pauci tentoria ponunt;
+      Sunt, quibus e ramo frondea facta casa est:
+    Pars, ubi pro rigidis calamos statuere columnis,
+      Desuper extentas imposuere togas.
+    Sole tamen vinoque calent; annosque precantur,
+      Quot sumant cyathos, ad numerumque bibunt.
+    Inventes illic, qui Nestoris ebibat annos:
+      Quæ sit per calices facta Sibylla suos.
+    Illic et cantant, quidquid didicere theatris,
+      Et jactant faciles ad sua verba manus:
+    Et ducunt posito duras cratere choreas,
+      Multaque diffusis saltat amica comis.
+    Quum redeunt, titubant, et sunt spectacula vulgo,
+      Et fortunatos obvia turba vocat.
+    Occurri nuper. Visa est mihi digna relatu
+      Pompa: senem potum pota trahebat anus."
+
+    _Fast._ iii. 523.
+
+Here three roads meet. That on the right is the old Via Flaminia, begun
+B.C. 220 by C. Flaminius the censor. This was the great northern road of
+Italy, which, issuing from the city by the Porta Ratumena, which was
+close to the tomb of Bibulus, followed a line a little east of the
+modern Corso, and passed the Aurelian wall by the Porta Flaminia, near
+the present Porta del Popolo. It extended to Ariminum (Rimini), a
+distance of 210 miles.[373]
+
+(Following this road for about 1-1/2 mile, on the left are the ruins
+called _Tor di Quinto_. A little further on the right of the road are
+some tufa-rocks, with an injured tomb of the Nasones. Following the
+valley under these rocks to the left we reach (1-1/2 mile) the fine
+_Castle of Crescenza_, now a farm-*house, picturesquely situated on a
+rocky knoll,--once inhabited by Poussin, and reproduced in the
+background of many of his pictures. In the interior are some remains of
+ancient frescoes.
+
+On this road, seven miles from Rome, is Prima Porta, where are the ruins
+of the _Villa of Livia_, wife of Augustus, and mother of Tiberius. When
+first opened, several small rooms in the villa, supposed to be baths,
+were covered with frescoes and arabesques in a state of the most
+marvellous beauty and preservation, but they are now greatly injured by
+damp and exposure. From the character of the paintings, a trellis-*work
+of fruit and flowers, amid which birds and insects are sporting, it is
+supposed that they are the work of Ludius, described in Pliny, who "divi
+Augusti ætate primus instituit amoenissimam parietum picturam, villas
+et porticus ac topiaria opera, lucos, nemora ... blandissimo aspectu
+minimoque impendio." It was here that the magnificent statue of
+Augustus, now in the Braccio Nuovo of the Vatican, was discovered in
+1863.
+
+     "What Augustus's affection for Livia was, is well known. 'Preserve
+     the remembrance of a husband who has loved you very tenderly,' were
+     the last words of the emperor, as he lay on his death-bed. And when
+     asked how she contrived to retain his affection, Dion Cassius tells
+     us that she replied, 'My secret is very simple: I have made it the
+     study of my life to please him, and I have never manifested any
+     indiscreet curiosity with regard to his public or private
+     affairs.'"--_Weld._
+
+Just beyond this, the Tiber receives the little river _Valca_,
+considered to be identical with the Crimera. Hither the devoted clan of
+the Fabii, 4000 in number, retired from Rome, having offered to sustain,
+at their own cost and risk, the war which Rome was then carrying on
+against Veii. Here, because they felt a position within the city
+untenable on account of the animosity of their fellow-patricians, which
+had been excited by their advocacy of the agrarian law, and their
+popularity with the plebeians, they established themselves on a hillock
+overhanging the river, which they fortified, and where they dwelt for
+three years. At the end of that time the Veiientines, by letting loose
+herds of cattle like the _Vaccine_, which one still sees wandering in
+that part of the Campagna, drew them into an ambuscade, and they were
+all cut off to a man. According to Dionysius, a portion of the little
+army remained to guard the fort, and the rest fled to another hill,
+perhaps that now known as Vaccareccia. These were the last to be
+exterminated.
+
+     "They fought from dawn to sunset. The enemy slain by their hand
+     formed heaps of corpses which barred their passage."--They were
+     summoned to surrender, but they preferred to die.--"The people of
+     Veii showered arrows and stones upon them from a distance, not
+     daring to approach them again. The arrows fell like thick snow. The
+     Fabii, with swords blunted by force of striking, with bucklers
+     broken, continued to fight, snatching fresh swords from the hands
+     of the enemy, and rushing upon them with the ferocity of wild
+     beasts."--_Dionysius_, ix. 21.
+
+A little beyond this, ten miles from Rome, is the stream _Scannabecchi_,
+which descends from the Crustuminian Hills, and is identical with the
+Allia, "infaustum Allia nomen," where the Romans were (B.C. 390)
+entirely defeated with great slaughter by the Gauls, before the capture
+of the city, in which the aged senators were massacred at the doors of
+their houses.
+
+It was in the lands lying between the villa of Livia and the Tiber that
+_Saxa Rubra_[374] was situated, where Constantine (A.D. 312) gained his
+decisive victory over Maxentius, who, while attempting to escape over
+the Milvian Bridge, was pushed by the throng of fugitives into the
+Tiber, and perished, engulfed in the mud. The scene is depicted in the
+famous fresco of Giulio Romano, in the stanze of the Vatican.
+
+On the opposite side of the river, Castel Giubeleo, on the site of the
+Etruscan Fidenæ, is a conspicuous object.)
+
+(The direct road from the Ponte Molle is the ancient _Via Cassia_, which
+must be followed for some distance by those who make the interesting
+excursions to Veii, Galera, and Bracciano, each easily within the
+compass of a day's expedition. On the left of this road, three miles
+from Rome, is the fine sarcophagus of Publius Vibius Maximus and his
+wife Regina Maxima, popularly known as "Nero's Tomb.")
+
+Following the road to the left of the Ponte Molle, we turn up a steep
+incline to the deserted _Villa Madama_, built by Giulio Romano, from
+designs of Raphael for Cardinal Giulio de' Medici, afterwards Clement
+VII. It derives its name from Margaret of Austria, daughter of Charles
+V., and wife, first of Alessandro de' Medici, and then of Ottavio
+Farnese, duke of Parma; from this second marriage, it descended through
+Elisabetta Farnese, to the Bourbon kings of Naples. The neglected halls
+contain some fresco decorations by _Giulio Romano_ and _Giovanni da
+Udine_.
+
+     "They consist of a series of beautiful little pictures,
+     representing the sports of Satyrs and Loves; Juno, attended by her
+     peacocks; Jupiter and Ganymede; and various subjects of mythology
+     and fable. The paintings in the portico have been of first-rate
+     excellence; and I cannot but regret, that designs so beautiful
+     should not be engraved before their last traces disappear for ever.
+     A deep fringe on one of the deserted chambers, representing angels,
+     flowers, Caryatides, &c., by Giulio Romano; and also a fine fresco
+     on a ceiling, by Giovanni da Udine, of Phoebus driving his
+     heavenly steeds, are in somewhat better preservation.
+
+     "It was in the groves that surrounded Villa Madama, that the Pastor
+     Fido of Guarini was represented for the first time before a
+     brilliant circle of princes and nobles, such as these scenes will
+     see no more, and Italy itself could not now produce."--_Eaton's
+     Rome._
+
+The frescoes and arabesques executed here by Giovanni da Udine were
+considered at the time as among the most successful of his works. Vasari
+says that in these he "wished to be supreme, and to excel himself."
+Cardinal de' Medici was so delighted with them that he not only heaped
+benefits on all the relations of the painter, but rewarded him with a
+rich canonry, which he was allowed to transfer to his brother.
+
+One can scarcely doubt from the description of Martial that this villa
+occupies the site of that in which the poet came to visit his friend and
+namesake.
+
+    "Juli jugera pauca Martialis,
+    Hortis Hesperidum beatiora,
+    Longo Janiculi jugo recumbunt.
+    Lati collibus imminent recessus;
+    Et planus modico tumore vertex
+    Coelo perfruitur sereniore:
+    Et, curvas nebula tegente valles,
+    Solus luce nitet peculiari:
+    Puris leniter admoventur astris
+    Celsæ culmina delicata villæ.
+    Hinc septem dominos videre montes,
+    Et totam licet sestimare Romam."
+
+The Villa Madama is situated on one of the slopes of _Monte Mario_,
+which is ascended by a winding carriage-road from near the Porta
+Angelica. This hill, in ancient times called Clivus Cinnæ, was in the
+middle ages Monte Malo, and is thus spoken of by Dante (Paradiso, xv.
+109). Its name changed to Mario, through Mario Mellini, its possessor in
+the time of Sixtus V. Passing the two churches of Sta. Maria del Rosario
+and Sta. Croce di Monte Mario,[375] we reach a gate with an old
+pine-tree. This is the _Villa Mellini_ (for which an order is supposed
+to be necessary, though a franc will usually cause the gates to fly
+open), which possesses a magnificent view over Rome, from its terraces,
+lined with ilexes and cypresses.
+
+     "The Monte Mario, like Cooper's Hill, is the highest, boldest, and
+     most prominent part of the line; it is about the height and
+     steepness too of Cooper's Hill, and has the Tiber at the foot of
+     it, like the Thames at Anchorwick. To keep up the resemblance,
+     there is a sort of terrace at the top of the Monte Mario, planted
+     with cypresses, and a villa, though dilapidated, crowns the summit,
+     as well as at our old friend above Egham. Here we stood, on a most
+     delicious evening, the ilex and the gum-cistus in great profusion
+     about us, the slope below full of vines and olives, the cypresses
+     above our heads, and before our eyes all that one has read of in
+     Roman History--the course of the Tiber between the hills that bound
+     it, coming down from Fidenæ and receiving the Allia and the Anio;
+     beyond, the Apennines, the distant and higher summits still quite
+     white with snow; in front, the Alban Hills; on the right, the
+     Campagna to the sea; and just beneath us the whole length of Rome,
+     ancient and modern--St. Peter's and the Coliseum, rising as the
+     representatives of each--the Pantheon, the Aventine, the Quirinal,
+     all the well-known objects distinctly laid before us. One may
+     safely say that the world cannot contain many views of such mingled
+     beauty and interest as this."--_Dr. Arnold._
+
+     "Les maisons de campagne des grands seigneurs donnent l'idée de
+     cette solitude, de cette indifférence des possesseurs au milieu des
+     plus admirables séjours du monde. On se promène dans ces immenses
+     jardins, sans se douter qu'ils aient un maître. L'herbe croît au
+     milieu des allées; et, dans ces mêmes allées abandonnées, les
+     arbres sont taillés artistement, selon l'ancien goût qui régnait en
+     France; singulière bizarrerie que cette négligence du nécessaire,
+     et cette affectation de l'inutile!"--_Mad. de Staël._
+
+(Behind the Monte Mario, about four miles from Rome, is the church of
+_S. Onofrio in Campagna_, with a curious ossuary.)
+
+Just outside the Porta Angelica was the vineyard in which Alexander VI.
+died.
+
+     "This is the manner in which Pope Alexander VI. came to his death.
+
+     "The cardinal datary, Arian de Corneto, having received a gracious
+     intimation that the pontiff, together with the Duke Valentinos,
+     designed to come and sup with him at his vineyard, and that his
+     Holiness would bring the supper with him, the cardinal suspected
+     that this determination had been taken for the purpose of
+     destroying his life by poison, to the end that the duke might have
+     his riches and appointments, the rather as he knew that the pope
+     had resolved to put him to death by some means, with a view to
+     seizing his property as I have said,--which was very great.
+     Considering of the means by which he might save himself, he could
+     see but one hope of safety--he sent in good time to the pope's
+     carver, with whom he had a certain intimacy, desiring that he would
+     come to speak with him; who, when he had come to the said cardinal,
+     was taken by him into a secret place, where, they two being
+     retired, the cardinal showed the carver a sum, prepared beforehand,
+     of 10,000 ducats, in gold, which the said cardinal persuaded the
+     carver to accept as a gift and to keep for love of him, and after
+     many words, they were at length accepted, the cardinal offering,
+     moreover, all the rest of his wealth at his command--for he was a
+     very rich cardinal, for he said that he could not keep the said
+     riches by any other means than through the said carver's aid, and
+     declared to him, 'You know of a certainty what the nature of the
+     pope is, and I know that he has resolved, with the Duke Valentinos,
+     to procure my life by poison, through your hand,'--wherefore he
+     besought the carver to take pity on him, and to give him his life.
+     And having said this, the carver declared to him the manner in
+     which it was ordered that the poison should be given to him at the
+     supper, but being moved to compassion he promised to preserve his
+     life. Now the orders were that the carver should present three
+     boxes of sweetmeats, in tablets or lozenges, after the supper, one
+     to the pope, one to the said cardinal, and another to the duke, and
+     in that for the cardinal there was poison: and thus being told, the
+     said cardinal gave directions to the aforesaid carver in what
+     manner he should serve them, so as to cause that the box of
+     poisoned confect which was to be for the cardinal, should be placed
+     before the pope, so that he might eat thereof, and so poison
+     himself, and die. And the pope being come accordingly with the duke
+     to supper on the day appointed, the cardinal threw himself at his
+     feet, kissing them and embracing them closely; then he entreated
+     his Holiness with most affectionate words, saying, he would never
+     rise from those feet until his Holiness had granted him a favour.
+     Being questioned by the pontiff what this favour was, and requested
+     to rise up, he would first have the grace he demanded, and the
+     promise of his Holiness to grant it. Now after much persuasion, the
+     pope remained sufficiently astonished, seeing the perseverance of
+     the cardinal, and that he would not rise, and promised to grant the
+     favour. Then the cardinal rose up and said, 'Holy Father, it is not
+     fitting that when the master comes to the house of his servant, the
+     servant should eat with his master like an equal (confrezer
+     parimente),' and therefore the grace he demanded was the just and
+     honest one, that he, the servant, should wait at the table of his
+     master; and this favour the pope granted him. Then having come to
+     supper, and the time for serving the confectionery having arrived,
+     the carver put the poisoned sweetmeats into the box, according to
+     the first order given to him by the pope, and the cardinal being
+     well informed as to which box had no poison, tasted of that one,
+     and put the poisoned confect before the pope. Then his Holiness,
+     trusting to his carver, and seeing the cardinal tasting, judged
+     that no poison was there, and ate of it heartily; while of the
+     other, which the pope thought was poisoned, but which was not, the
+     cardinal ate. Now at the hour accustomed, according to the quality
+     of that poison, his Holiness began to feel its effect, and so died
+     thereof; but the cardinal, who was yet much afraid, having
+     physicked himself and vomited, took no harm and escaped, though not
+     without difficulty."--_Sanuto_, iv., _Translation in Ranke's Hist.
+     of the Popes_.
+
+The wine of the Vatican hill has had a bad reputation even from
+classical times. "If you like vinegar," wrote Martial, "drink the wine
+of the Vatican!"[376] and again, "To drink the wine of the Vatican is to
+drink poison."[377]
+
+(Here, also, is the entrance of the _Val d' Inferno_, a pleasant winter
+walk, where, near the beginning of the Cork Woods, are some picturesque
+remains of an ancient nymphæum.)
+
+The _Porta Angelica_, built by Pius IV. (1559--1566), leads into the
+Borgo, beneath the walls of the Vatican.
+
+Those who return from hence to the English quarter in the evening, will
+realize the vividness of Miss Thackeray's description:--
+
+     "They passed groups standing round their doorways; a blacksmith
+     hammering with great straight blows at a copper pot, shouting to a
+     friend, a young baker, naked almost, except for a great sheet flung
+     over his shoulders, and leaning against the door of his shop. The
+     horses tramp on. Listen to the flow of fountains gleaming white
+     against the dark marbles,--to the murmur of voices. An old lady,
+     who has apparently hung all her wardrobe out of window, in
+     petticoats and silk hankerchiefs, is looking out from beneath these
+     banners at the passers in the streets. Little babies, tied up tight
+     in swaddling-clothes, are being poised against their mother's hips;
+     a child is trying to raise the great knocker of some feudal-looking
+     arch, hidden in the corner of the street. Then they cross the
+     bridge, and see the last sun's rays flaming from the angel's sacred
+     sword. Driving on through the tranquil streets, populous and
+     thronged with citizens, they see brown-faced, bronze-headed Torsos
+     in balconies and window-frames; citizens sitting tranquilly,
+     resting on the kerb-*stones, with their feet in the gutters;
+     grand-looking women resting against their doorways. Sibyls out of
+     the Sistine were sitting on the steps of the churches. In one stone
+     archway sat the Fates spinning their web. There was a holy family
+     by a lemonade-shop, and a whole heaven of little Coreggio angels
+     perching dark-eyed along the road. Then comes a fountain falling
+     into a marble basin, at either end of which two little girls are
+     clinging and climbing. Here is a little lighted May-altar to the
+     Virgin, which the children have put up under the shrine by the
+     street-corner. They don't beg clamorously, but stand leaning
+     against the wall, waiting for a chance miraculous
+     baioch?"--_Bluebeard's Keys._
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+THE JANICULAN.
+
+     Gate of Sto. Spirito--Church, Convent, and Garden of S.
+     Onofrio--The Lungara--Palazzo Salviati and the Botanic-Garden--S.
+     Giovanni alla Lungara--Palazzo Corsini--The Farnesina--Porta
+     Settimiana--S. Pietro in Montorio--Fontana Paolina--Villa
+     Lante--Porta and Church of S. Pancrazio--Villa
+     Doria-Pamfili--Chapel of St. Andrew's Head.
+
+
+The Janiculan is a steep crest of hill which rises abruptly on the west
+bank of the Tiber, and breaks imperceptibly away on the other side into
+the Campagna towards Civita Vecchia. Its lower formation is a marine
+clay abounding in fossils, but its upper surface is formed of the yellow
+sand which gave it the ancient name of Mons Aureus,--still commemorated
+in Montorio--S. Pietro in Montorio.
+
+A tradition universally received in ancient times, and adopted by
+Virgil, derives the name of Janiculum from Janus, who was the sun-god,
+as Jana, or Diana, was the moon-goddess. On this hill Janus is believed
+to have founded a city, which is mentioned by Pliny under the name of
+Antinopolis. Ovid makes Janus speak for himself as to his property:
+
+    "Arx mea collis erat, quem cultrix nomine nostro
+    Nuncupat hæc ætas, Janiculumque vocat."[378]
+
+Fons, the supposed son of Janus, is known to have had an altar here in
+very early times.[379] Janus Quirinus was a war-god, "the sun armed
+with a lance." Thus, in time of peace, the gates of this temple were
+closed, both because his worship was then unnecessary, and from an idea
+of preventing war from going forth. It was probably in this character
+that he was honoured on a site which the Romans looked upon as "the key
+of Etruria," while other nations naturally regarded it as "the key of
+Rome."
+
+Janus was represented as having a key in his hand.
+
+     "Ille tenens dextra baculum, clavemque sinistra."
+
+     "Par un hasard singulier, Janus, qu'on représentait une clef à la
+     main, était le dieu du Janicule, voisin du Vatican, où est le
+     tombeau de Saint Pierre, que l'on représente aussi tenant une clef.
+     Janus, comme Saint Pierre, son futur voisin, était le portier
+     céleste."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ i. 229,
+
+When the first Sabine king of Rome, Numa Pompilius, "like the darlings
+of the gods in the golden age, fell asleep, full of days,"[380] he was
+buried upon the sacred hill of his own people, and the books of his
+sacred laws and ordinances were buried near him in a separate tomb.[381]
+In the sixth century of the republic, a monument was discovered on the
+Janiculan, which was believed to be that of Numa, and certain books were
+dug up near it which were destroyed by the senate in the fear that they
+might give a too free-*thinking explanation of the Roman mythology.[382]
+
+Ancus Martius, the fourth king of Rome, connected the Janiculan with the
+rest of the city by building the Pons Sublicius, the first bridge over
+the Tiber; and erected a citadel on the crest of the hill as a bulwark
+against Etruria, with which he was constantly at war.[383] Some
+escarpments, supposed to belong to the fortifications of Ancus, have
+lately been found behind the Fontana Paolina. It was from this same
+ridge that his Etruscan successor, Tarquinius Priscus, coming from
+Tarquinii (Corneto), had his first view of the city over which he came
+to reign, and here the eagle, henceforth to be the emblem of Roman
+power, replaced upon his head the cap which it had snatched away as he
+was riding in his chariot. Hence, also, Lars Porsena, king of Etruria,
+looked upon Rome, when he came to the assistance of Tarquinius Superbus,
+and retired in fear of his life after he had seen specimens of Roman
+endurance, in Horatius Cocles, who kept the falling bridge; in Mutius,
+who burnt his hand in the charcoal; and in the hostage, Coellia, who
+swam home across the Tiber,--all anecdotes connected with the Janiculan.
+
+After the time of the kings this hill appears less frequently in
+history. But it was here that the consul Octavius, the friend of Sylla,
+was murdered by the partisans of Marius, while seated in his curule
+chair,--near the foot of the hill Julius Cæsar had his famous gardens,
+and on its summit the Emperor Galba was buried. The Christian
+associations of the hill will be noticed at the different points to
+which they belong.
+
+From the Borgo (Chap. XV.) the unfinished gate called _Porta Sto.
+Spirito_, built by Antonio da San Gallo, leads into the Via Lungara, a
+street three-quarters of a mile long, formed by Sixtus V., and occupying
+the whole length of the valley between the Tiber and the Janiculan.
+
+Immediately on the right, the steep "Salita di S. Onofrio" leads up the
+hillside to the _Church of S. Onofrio_, built in 1439 by Nicolo da Forca
+Palena, in honour of the Egyptian hermit, Honophrius.
+
+     "St. Onofrius was a monk of Thebes, who retired to the desert, far
+     from the sight of men, and dwelt there in a cave for sixty years,
+     and during all that time never beheld one human being, or uttered
+     one word of his mother-tongue except in prayer. He was unclothed,
+     except by some leaves twisted round his body, and his beard and
+     hair had become like the face of a wild beast. In this state he was
+     discovered by a holy man whose name was Paphnutius, who, seeing him
+     crawling on the ground, knew not at first what live thing it might
+     be."--_Jameson's Sacred Art._
+
+From the little platform in front of the convent is one of the loveliest
+views over the city. The church is approached by a portico, decorated
+with glazed frescoes by _Domenichino_. Those on either side of the door
+represent the saints of the Hieronomyte Order (the adjoining convent
+belongs to Hieronomytes), viz.: S. Jerome, Sta. Paula, St. Eustochium,
+S. Pietro Gambacorta of Pisa, St Augustine the hermit, S. Nicolo di
+Forca Palena, S. Onofrio and the Blessed Benedict of Sicily, Philip of
+St. Agatha, Paul of Venice, Bartholomew of Cesarea, Mark of Manuta,
+Philip of Fulgaria, and John of Catalonia. Over the door is a Madonna
+and Child. In the side arcade are three scenes in the life of St.
+Jerome. 1. Represents his baptism as a young man at Rome. 2. Refers to
+his vision of the Judgment (described in his letter to Eustochium), in
+which he heard the Judge of the World ask what he was, and he answered,
+"I am a Christian." But the Judge replied, "No, you lie, for you are a
+Ciceronian," and he was condemned to be scourged, but continued to
+protest that he was a Christian between every lash. 3. Is a scene
+alluded to in another letter to Eustochium, in which Jerome says, "O how
+often when alone in the desert with the wild beasts and scorpions, half
+dead with fasting and penance, have I fancied myself a spectator of the
+sins of Rome, and of the dances of its young women."
+
+The church has a solemn and picturesque interior. It ends in a tribune
+richly adorned with frescoes, those of the upper part (the Coronation of
+the Virgin, and eight groups of saints and angels) being by
+_Pinturicchio_, those of the lower (the Virgin and Saints, Nativity, and
+Flight into Egypt) by _Baldassare Peruzzi_.
+
+On the left of the entrance is the original monument of Tasso (with a
+portrait), erected after his death by Cardinal Bevilacqua. Greatly
+inferior in interest is a monument recently placed to his memory in the
+adjoining chapel, by subscription, the work of _De Fabris_. Near this is
+the grave of the poet, Alessandro Guidi, ob. 1712. In the third chapel
+on the left is the grave of the learned Cardinal Mezzofanti, born at
+Bologna, 1774, died at Rome, 1849.
+
+The first chapel on the right, which is low and vaulted, with stumpy
+pillars, is covered with frescoes relating to S. Onofrio.
+
+The second chapel on the right, which is very richly decorated, contains
+a Madonna crowned by Angels, by _Annibale Caracci_. Beyond this is the
+fine tomb of Archbishop Sacchi, ob. 1502. The beautiful lunette, of the
+Madonna teaching the Holy Child to read, is by _Pinturicchio_. The tomb
+is inscribed:
+
+    "Labor et gloria vita fuit,
+      Mors requies."
+
+Ladies are never admitted to visit the convent, except on April 25th,
+the anniversary of the death of Tasso. It is approached by a cloister,
+decorated with frescoes from the life of S. Onofrio.
+
+     "S. Onofrio is represented as a meagre old man, with long hair and
+     beard, grey and matted, a leafy branch twisted round his loins, a
+     stick in his hand. The artist generally tries to make him look as
+     haggard and inhuman as possible."--_Mrs. Jameson._
+
+In a passage on the first floor is a beautiful fresco of the Virgin and
+Child with the donor, by _Leonardo da Vinci_.
+
+     "To 1513 belongs a Madonna, painted on the wall of the upper
+     corridor of the convent of S. Onofrio. It is on a gold ground: the
+     action of the Madonna is beautiful, displaying the noblest form,
+     and the expression of the countenance is peculiarly sweet; but the
+     Child, notwithstanding his graceful action, is somewhat hard and
+     heavy, so as almost to warrant the conclusion that this picture
+     belongs to an earlier period, which would suppose a previous visit
+     to Rome."--_Kugler._
+
+Torquato Tasso came to Rome in 1594, on the invitation of Clement VIII.,
+that he might be crowned on the Capitol, but as he arrived in the month
+of November, and the weather was then very bad, it was decided to
+postpone the ceremony till late in the following spring. This delay was
+a source of trouble to Tasso, who was in feeble health, and had a
+presentiment that his death was near. Before the time for his crowning
+arrived he had removed to S. Onofrio, saying to the monks who received
+him at the entrance, "My fathers, I have come to die amongst you!" and
+he wrote to one of his friends, "I am come to begin my conversation in
+heaven in this elevated place, and in the society of these holy
+fathers." During the fourteen days of his illness, he became perfectly
+absorbed in the contemplation of divine subjects, and upon the last day
+of his life, when he received the papal absolution, exclaimed, "I
+believe that the crown which I looked for upon the Capitol is to be
+changed for a better crown in heaven." Throughout the last night a monk
+prayed by his side till the morning, when Tasso was heard to murmur, "In
+manus tuas, Domine," and then he died. The room in which he expired,
+April 25, 1595, contains his bust, crucifix, inkstand, autograph, a mask
+taken from his face after death, and other relics. The archives of S.
+Onofrio have this entry:
+
+     "Torquato Tasso, illustrious from his genius, died thus in our
+     monastery of S. Onofrio. In April, 1595, he caused himself to be
+     brought here that he might prepare for death with greater devotion
+     and security, as he felt his end approaching. He was received
+     courteously by our fathers, and conducted to chambers in the
+     loggia, where everything was ready for him. Soon afterwards he
+     became dangerously ill, and desired to confess and receive the most
+     Holy Sacrament from the prior. Being asked to write his will, he
+     said that he wished to be buried at S. Onofrio, and he left to the
+     convent his crucifix and fifty scudi for alms, that so many masses
+     might be said for his soul, in the manner that is read in the book
+     of legacies in our archives. Pope Clement VIII. was requested for
+     his benediction, which he gave amply for the remission of sins. In
+     his last days he received extreme unction, and then, with the
+     crucifix in his hand, contemplating and kissing the sacred image,
+     with Christian contrition and devotion, being surrounded by our
+     fathers, he gave up his spirit to the Creator, on April 25, 1595,
+     between the eleventh and twelfth hours (_i.e._, between 7 and 8
+     A.M.), in the fiftieth year of his age. In the evening his body was
+     interred with universal concourse in our church, near the steps of
+     the high altar, the Cardinal Giulio Aldobrandini, under whose
+     protection he had lived during the last years, being minded to
+     erect to him, as soon as possible, a sumptuous sepulchre; which,
+     however, was never carried into effect; but after the death of the
+     latter, the Signor Cardinal Bevilacqua raised to his memory the
+     monument which is seen on entering the church on the left side."
+
+Ladies are admitted to the beautiful garden of the convent on ringing at
+the first large gate on the left below the church.
+
+This lovely plot of ground, fresh with running streams, possesses a
+glorious view over the city, and the Campagna beyond S. Paolo. At the
+further extremity, near a picturesque group of cypresses, are remains of
+the oak planted by Tasso, the greater part of which was blown down in
+1842. A young sapling is shooting up beside it. Beyond this is the
+little amphitheatre, overgrown with grass and flowers, where S. Filippo
+Neri used to teach children, and assemble them "for the half-dramatic
+musical performances which were an original form of his oratorios. Here
+every 25th of April a musical entertainment of the Accademia is held in
+memory of Tasso,--his bust, crowned with laurel wreaths, and taken from
+the cast after death, being placed in the centre of the
+amphitheatre."[384]
+
+Returning to the Lungara, on the left is a Lunatic Asylum, founded by
+Pius IX., with a pompous inscription, and beyond it, a chain bridge to
+S. Giovanni dei Fiorentini. On the right is the handsome _Palazzo
+Salviati_, which formerly contained a fine collection of pictures,
+removed to the Borghese Palace, when, upon the property falling into the
+hands of Prince Borghese, he sold the palace to the government, who now
+use it as a repository for the civil archives. The adjoining garden now
+belongs to the Sapienza, and has been turned into a _Botanic Garden_.
+The modernized church of S. _Giovanni alla Lungara_ dates from the time
+of Leo IV. (845--857), and is now attached to a reformatory. On the
+right is a large _Convent of the Buon Pastore_.
+
+We now reach, on the right, the magnificent _Palazzo Corsini_, built
+originally by the Riario family, from whom it was bought by Clement XII.
+in 1729, for his nephew Cardinal Neri Corsini, for whom it was altered
+to its present form by _Fuga_.
+
+This palace was in turn the resort of Caterina Sforza, the brave duchess
+of Imola; of the learned Poet Cardinal di S. Giorgio; of Michael Angelo,
+who remained here more than a year on a visit to the cardinal, "who,"
+says Vasari, "being of small understanding in art, gave him no
+commission"; and of Erasmus, who always remembered the pleasant
+conversations (confabulationes mellifluæ) of the "Riario Palace," as it
+was then called. In the seventeenth century the palace became the
+residence of Queen Christina of Sweden, who died here on April 19, 1689,
+in a room which is distinguished by two columns of painted wood.
+
+     "With her residence in Rome, the habits of Christina became more
+     tranquil and better regulated. She obtained some mastery over
+     herself, suffered certain considerations of what was due to others
+     to prevail, and consented to acknowledge the necessities incident
+     to the peculiarities of her chosen residence. She took a constantly
+     increasing part in the splendour, the life, and the business of the
+     Curia, becoming indeed eventually altogether identified with its
+     interests. The collections she had brought with her from Sweden,
+     she now enlarged by so liberal an expenditure, and with so much
+     taste, judgment, and success, that she surpassed even the native
+     families, and elevated the pursuit from a mere gratification of
+     curiosity, to a higher and more significant importance both for
+     learning and art. Men such as Spanheim and Havercamp thought the
+     illustration of her coins and medals an object not unworthy of
+     their labours, and Sante Bartolo devoted his practised hand to her
+     cameos. The Coreggios of Christina's collection have always been
+     the richest ornament of every gallery into which the changes of
+     time have carried them. The MSS. of her choice have contributed in
+     no small degree to maintain the reputation of the Vatican library,
+     into which they were subsequently incorporated. Acquisitions and
+     possessions of this kind filled up the hours of her daily life,
+     with an enjoyment that was at least harmless. She also took
+     interest and an active part in scientific pursuits; and it is much
+     to her credit that she received the poor exiled Borelli, who was
+     compelled to resort in his old age to teaching as a means of
+     subsistence. The queen supported him with her utmost power, and
+     caused his renowned and still unsurpassed work, on the mechanics of
+     animal motion, by which physiological science has been so
+     importantly influenced and advanced, to be printed at her own cost.
+     Nay, I think we may even venture to affirm, that she herself, when
+     her character and intellect had been improved and matured, exerted
+     a powerfully efficient and enduring influence on the period, more
+     particularly on Italian literature. In the year 1680, she founded
+     an academy in her own residence for the discussion of literary and
+     political subjects; and the first rule of this institution was,
+     that its members should carefully abstain from the turgid style,
+     overloaded with false ornament, which prevailed at the time, and be
+     guided only by sound sense and the models of the Augustan and
+     Medicean ages. From the queen's academy proceeded such men as
+     Alessandro Guidi, who had previously been addicted to the style
+     then used, but after some time passed in the society of Christina,
+     he not only resolved to abandon it, but even formed a league with
+     some of his friends for the purpose of labouring to abolish it
+     altogether. The Arcadia, an academy to which the merit of
+     completing this good work is attributed, arose out of the society
+     which assembled around the Swedish queen. On the whole, it must
+     needs be admitted, that in the midst of the various influences
+     pressing around her, Christina preserved a noble independence of
+     mind. To the necessity for evincing that ostentatious piety usually
+     expected from converts, or which they impose on themselves, she
+     would by no means subject herself. Entirely Catholic as she was,
+     and though continually repeating her conviction of the pope's
+     infallibility, and of the necessity for believing all doctrines
+     enjoined either by himself or the Church, she had nevertheless an
+     extreme detestation of bigots, and utterly abhorred the direction
+     of father confessors, who were at that time the exclusive rulers of
+     all social and domestic life. She would not be prevented from
+     enjoying the amusements of the carnival, concerts, dramatic
+     entertainments, or whatever else might be offered by the habits of
+     life at Rome; above all, she refused to be withheld from the
+     internal movement of an intellectual and animated society. She
+     acknowledged a love of satires, and took pleasure in Pasquin. We
+     find her constantly mingled in the intrigues of the court, the
+     dissensions of the papal houses, and the factions of the
+     cardinals.... She attached herself to the mode of life presented to
+     her with a passionate love, and even thought it impossible to live
+     if she did not breathe the atmosphere of Rome."--_Ranke's Hist. of
+     the Popes._
+
+In 1797 this palace was used as the French embassy, and on the 28th of
+December was the scene of a terrible skirmish, when Joseph Buonaparte,
+then ambassador, attempted to interfere between the French democratic
+party and the papal dragoons, and when young General Duphot, who was
+about to be married to Buonaparte's sister-in-law, was shot by his side
+in a balcony. These events, after which Joseph Buonaparte immediately
+demanded his passports and departed, were among the chief causes which
+led to the invasion of Rome by Berthier, and the imprisonment of Pius
+VII.[385]
+
+The collections now in the palace have all been formed since the death
+of Queen Christina. The _Picture Gallery_ is open to the public from
+nine to twelve, every day except Sundays and holidays.
+
+The following criticism, applicable to all the private galleries in
+Rome, is perhaps especially so to this:
+
+     "You may generally form a tolerably correct conjecture of what a
+     gallery will contain, as to subject, before you enter it,--a
+     certain quantity of Landscapes, a great many Holy Families, a few
+     Crucifixions, two or three Pietàs, a reasonable proportion of St.
+     Jeromes, a mixture of other Saints and Martyrdoms, and a large
+     assortment of Madonnas and Magdalenes, make up the principal part
+     of all the collections in Rome; which are generally comprised of
+     quite as many bad as good paintings."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+     The 1st room is chiefly occupied by pretty but unimportant
+     landscapes by _Orizzonti_ and _Vanvitelli_, and figure pieces by
+     Locatelli. We may notice (the best pictures being marked with an
+     asterisk):
+
+     _1st Room._--
+
+     24, 26. _Canaletti._
+
+     _2nd Room._--
+
+     12. Madonna and Child in glory: _Elis. Sirani_.
+
+     11, 27. Fruit: _Mario di Fiori_.
+
+     15. Landscape: _G. Poussin_.
+
+     17, 19. Landscapes with Cattle: _Berghem_.
+
+     20. Pietà: _Lod. Caracci_.
+
+     41. S. Andrea Corsini: _Fr. Gessi_.
+
+     _3rd Room._--
+
+     1. Ecce Homo: _Guercino_.*
+
+     9. Madonna and Child: _A. del Sarto_.
+
+     13. Holy Family: _Barocci_.
+
+     16, 20. Rock Scenes: _Salvator Rosa_.
+
+     17. Madonna and Child: _Caravaggio_.
+
+     23. Sunset: _Both_.*
+
+     26. Holy Family: _Fra. Bartolomeo_.
+
+     43. Two Martyrdoms: _Carlo Saraceni_.
+
+     44. Julius II.: _after Raphael_.
+
+     The portrait of Julius II. (della Rovere) is a replica or copy of
+     that at the Pitti Palace. There are other duplicates in the
+     Borghese Gallery, at the National Gallery in England, and at Leigh
+     Court in Somersetshire. Julius II. ob. 1513.
+
+     49. St. Appollonia: _Carlo Dolce_.
+
+     50. Philip II. of Spain: _Titian_.
+
+     52. Vanity: _Carlo Saraceni_.*
+
+     88. Ecce Homo: _Carlo Dolce_.
+
+     _4th Room._--
+
+     1. Clement XII. (Lorenzo Corsini, 1730--40): _Benedetto Luti_.
+
+     4. Cupid asleep: _Guido Reni_.
+
+     11. Daughter of Herodias: _Guido Reni_.*
+
+     16. Madonna: _Guido Reni_.
+
+     22. Christ and the Magdalen: _Barocci_.
+
+     27. Two Heads: _Lod. Caracci_.
+
+     28. St. Jerome: _Titian_.
+
+     40. Faustina Maratta--his daughter: _Carlo Maratta_.
+
+     41. Fornarina: _Giulio Romano, after Raphael_,--replica of the
+     picture at Florence.
+
+     42. Old Man: _Guido_.
+
+     44. A Hare: _Albert Durer_.*
+
+     55. Death of Adonis: _Spagnoletto_.
+
+     In this room is an ancient marble chair, found near the
+     Lateran--and on a table "the Corsini Vase," in silver, with reliefs
+     representing the judgment of Areopagus upon the matricide of
+     Orestes.
+
+_5th Room._--(In which Christina died, with a ceiling by the _Zuccari_.)
+
+     2. Holy Family: _Pierino del Vaga_.
+
+     12. St. Agnes: _Carlo Dolce_.*
+
+     14. Madonna reading: _Sassoferrato_.
+
+     20. Ulysses and Polyphemus: _Lanfranco_.
+
+     23. Madonna and Child: _Albani_.
+
+     26. Madonna and Child: _Sassoferrato_.
+
+     37. Addolorata: _Guido Reni_.
+
+     38. Ecce Homo: _Guido Reni_.
+
+     39. St. John: _Guido Reni_.
+
+     _6th Room._--
+
+     19. Portrait: _Holbein_.
+
+     20. Mgr. Ghiberti: _Titian_.
+
+     21. Children of Charles V.: _Titian_.*
+
+     22. Old Woman: _Rembrandt_.*
+
+     23. Male Portrait: _Giorgione_.
+
+     31. Caterina Bora, Wife of Luther: _Holbein_.*
+
+     32. Male Portrait: _Vandyke_.
+
+     34. Nativity of the Virgin. Miniature from _Durer_.
+
+     40. Cardinal Divitius de Bibbiena: _Bronzino_.
+
+     47. Portrait of Himself: _Rubens_.*
+
+     48. A Doge of Venice: _Tintoret_.
+
+     54. Cardinal Alessandro Farnese: _Titian_.*
+
+     68. Cardinal Neri Corsini: _Baciccio_.
+
+     _7th Room._--
+
+     1. Madonna and Child: _Murillo_.*
+
+     13. Landscape: _G. Poussin_.
+
+     15. St. Sebastian: _Rubens_.
+
+     18. Christ bearing the Cross: _Garofalo_.
+
+     21. Christ among the Doctors: _Luca Giordano_.
+
+     22. Descent of the Holy Spirit: _Fra Angelico_.
+
+     23. Last Judgment: _Fra Angelico_.
+
+     24. Ascension: _Fra Angelico_.
+
+     "A Last Judgment by Angelico da Fiesole, with wings containing the
+     Ascension and the Descent of the Holy Ghost, is in the Corsini
+     Gallery. Here we perceive a great richness of expression and beauty
+     of drapery; the rapture of the blessed is told, chiefly by their
+     embraces and by their attitudes of prayer and praise. It is a
+     remarkable feature, and one indicative of the master, that the
+     ranks of the condemned are entirely filled by monks."--_Kugler._
+
+     26. Martyrdom of St. Bartholomew: _Lod. Caracci_.
+
+     30. Woman taken in Adultery: _Titian_.*
+
+     35. Gonfaloniere of the Church: _Domenichino_.
+
+     _8th Room._--
+
+     8. Christ before Pilate: _Vandyke_.
+
+     12. St. George: _Ercole Grandi_.
+
+     13. Contemplation: _Guido Reni_.
+
+     15. Landscape: _G. Poussin_.
+
+     17. Judith and Head of Holofernes: _Gérard de la Nuit_.
+
+     24. St. Jerome: _Guercino_.
+
+     25. St. Jerome: _Spagnoletto_.
+
+     43. Mosaic portrait of Clement XII. and his nephew Cardinal Neri
+     Corsini.
+
+     In this room are two modern family busts with touching
+     inscriptions.
+
+     CABINET:
+
+     26. Madonna and Child: _Spagna_.*
+
+     _9th Room._--
+
+     2. Village Interior: _Teniers_.
+
+     9. Innocent X.: _Velasquez_ (a replica of the Doria portrait).
+
+     26. Female Portrait: _Bronzino_.
+
+     28, 29. Battle-pieces: _Salvator Rosa_.
+
+     30. Two Heads: _Giorgione_.
+
+     40. Madonna Addolorata: _Cignani_.
+
+     49. Madonna and Child: _Gherardesco da Siena_.
+
+One of the gems of the collection, a highly finished Madonna and Child
+of Carlo Dolce, is usually shown in a glass case in the first room.
+
+The Corsini Library (open every day except Wednesdays) contains a
+magnificent collection of MSS. and engravings, founded by Cardinal Neri
+Corsini. It has also some beautiful original drawings by the old
+masters. Behind the palace, on the slope of the Janiculan, are large and
+beautiful _Gardens_ adorned with fountains, cypresses, and some grand
+old plane-trees. There is a fine view from the Casino on the summit of
+the hill.
+
+     "A magnificent porter in cocked hat and grand livery conducted the
+     visitors across the quadrangle, unlocked the ponderous iron gates
+     of the gardens, and let them through, leaving them to their own
+     devices, and closing and locking the gates with a crash. They now
+     stood in a wide avenue of ilex, whose gloomy boughs, interlacing
+     overhead, effectually excluded the sunlight; nearly a quarter of a
+     mile further on, the ilexes were replaced by box and bay trees,
+     beneath which the sun and shade divided the path between them,
+     trembling and flickering on the ground and invading each other's
+     dominions with every breath of wind. The strangers heard the splash
+     of fountains as they walked onwards by banks precipitous as a
+     hill-side, and covered with wild rank herbage and tall trees.
+     Stooping to gather a flower, they almost started, as looking up,
+     they saw, rising against a sky fabulously blue, the unfamiliar
+     green ilex and dark cypress spire."--_Mademoiselle Mori_.
+
+Opposite the Corsini Palace is the beautiful villa of _the Farnesina_
+(open on Sundays from 10 to 3), built in 1506 by Baldassare Peruzzi for
+the famous banker Agostino Chigi, who here gave his sumptuous and
+extravagant entertainments to Leo X. and his court--banquets at which
+three fish cost as much as 230 crowns, and after which the plate that
+had been used, was all thrown into the Tiber.[386] This same Agostino
+Chigi was one of the greatest of art patrons, and has handed down to us
+not only the decorations of the Farnesina, but the Sibyls of Sta. Maria
+della Pace, which he also ordered from Raphael.
+
+     "Le jour où Leon X. alla prendre possession de la basilique de
+     Latran, l'opulent Chigi se distingua. Le théâtre qui s'élevait
+     devant son palais était rempli des envoyés de tous les peuples,
+     blancs, cuivrés, et noirs; au milieu d'eux on distinguait les
+     images de Vénus, de Mars, de Minerve, allusion singulière aux trois
+     pontificats d'Alexander VI., de Jules II, et de Léon X. _Vénus a eu
+     son temps_: disait l'inscription; _Mars a eu le sien; c'est
+     aujourd'hui le règne de Minerve_. Antoine de San-Marino, qui
+     demeurait près de Chigi, répondit aussitot en plaçant sur sa
+     boutique la statue isolée de Vénus, avec ce peu de mots: Mars a
+     régné, Minerve règne, Vénus régnera toujours."--_Gournerie, Rome
+     Chrétienne_, ii. 109.
+
+The Farnesina contains some of the most beautiful existing frescoes of
+Raphael and his school. The principal hall was once open, but has now
+been closed in to preserve the paintings. Its ceiling was designed by
+_Raphael_ (1518--20), and painted by _Giulio Romano_ and _Francesco
+Penni_, with twelve scenes from the story of Psyche as narrated by
+Apuleius:
+
+     A king had three daughters. The youngest was named Psyche, and was
+     more lovely than the sunshine. Venus, the queen of beauty, was
+     herself jealous of her, and bade her son Cupid to destroy her
+     charms by inspiring her with an unworthy love (1). But Cupid, when
+     he beheld Psyche, loved her himself, showed her to the Graces (2),
+     and carried her off. He only visited her in the darkness of night,
+     and bade her always to repress her curiosity as to his appearance.
+     But while Cupid was sleeping, Psyche lighted a lamp, and looked
+     upon him,--and a drop of the hot oil fell upon him and he awoke.
+     Then he left her alone in grief and solitude. Venus in the mean
+     time learnt that Cupid was faithless to her, and imprisoned him,
+     and sought assistance from Juno and Ceres that she might find
+     Psyche, but they refused to aid her (3). Then she drove to seek
+     Jupiter in her chariot drawn by doves (4), and implored him to send
+     Mercury to her assistance (5). Jupiter listened to her prayer, and
+     Mercury was sent forth to seek for Psyche (6). Venus then showed
+     her spite against Psyche, and imposed harsh tasks upon her which
+     she was nevertheless enabled to perform. At length she was ordered
+     to bring a casket from the infernal regions (7), and even this, to
+     the amazement of Venus, she succeeded in effecting (8). Cupid,
+     escaped from captivity, then implored Jupiter to restore Psyche to
+     him. Jupiter embraced him (9), and bade Mercury summon the gods to
+     a council on the subject (see the ceiling on the right). Psyche was
+     then brought to Olympus (10), and became immortal, and the gods
+     celebrated her nuptial banquet (ceiling painting on left).
+
+     "On the flat of the ceiling are two large compositions, with
+     numerous figures,--the Judgment of the Gods, who decide the dispute
+     between Venus and Cupid, and the Marriage of Cupid and Psyche in
+     the festal assembly of the gods. In the lunettes of the ceiling are
+     _amorini_, with the attributes of those gods who have done homage
+     to the power of Love. In the triangular compartments between the
+     lunettes are different groups, illustrative of the incidents in the
+     fable. They are of great beauty, and are examples of the most
+     tasteful disposition in a given space. The picture of the three
+     Graces, that in which Cupid stands in an imploring attitude before
+     Jupiter; a third, where Psyche is borne away by Loves, are
+     extremely graceful. Peevish critics have designated these
+     representations as common and sensual, but the noble spirit visible
+     in all Raphael's works prevails also in these: religious feeling
+     could naturally find no place in them; but they are conceived in a
+     spirit of the purest artlessness, always a proof of true moral
+     feeling, and to which a narrow taste alone could object. In the
+     execution, indeed, we recognise little of Raphael's fine feeling;
+     the greatest part is by his scholars, after his cartoons,
+     especially by G. Romano. The nearest of the three Graces, in the
+     group before alluded to, appears to be by Raphael's own
+     hand."--_Kugler_.
+
+The paintings were injuriously retouched by _Carlo Maratta_. The
+garlands round them are by _Giovanni da Udine_. The second room contains
+the beautiful fresco of Galatea floating in a shell drawn by dolphins,
+by _Raphael_ himself.
+
+     "Raphael not only designed, but executed this fresco; and faded as
+     is its colouring, the mind must be dead to the highest beauties of
+     painting, that can contemplate it without admiration. The spirit
+     and beauty of the composition, the pure and perfect design, the
+     flowing outline, the soft and graceful contours, and the sentiment
+     and sweetness of the expression, all remain unchanged; for time,
+     till it totally obliterates, has no power to injure them.... The
+     figures of the attendant Nereid, and of the triumphant Triton who
+     embraces her, are beautiful beyond description."--_Eaton's Rome._
+
+     "The fresco of Galatea was painted in 1514. The greater part of
+     this is Raphael's own work, and the execution is consequently much
+     superior to that of the others. It represents the goddess of the
+     sea borne over the waves in her shell; tritons and sea-nymphs sport
+     joyously around her; _amorini_, discharging their arrows, appear in
+     the air like an angel-glory. The utmost sweetness, the most ardent
+     sense of pleasure, breathe from this work; everything lives, feels,
+     vibrates with enjoyment "--_Kugler._
+
+The frescoes of the ceiling, representing Diana in her Car, and the
+story of Medusa, are by _Baldassare Peruzzi_; the lunettes are by
+_Sebastian del Piombo_ and _Daniele da Volterra_. Michael Angelo came
+one day to visit the latter, and not finding him at his work, left the
+colossal head, which remains in a lunette of the left wall, as a sign of
+his visit.
+
+In the upper story are two rooms; the first, adorned with a frieze of
+subjects from Ovid's Metamorphoses, contains large architectural
+paintings by _Baldassare Peruzzi_; the second has the Marriage of
+Alexander and Roxana, and the family of Darius in the presence of
+Alexander, by _Sodoma_.
+
+The _Porta Settimiana_ at the end of the Lungara preserves in its name a
+recollection of the gardens of Septimius Severus, which existed in this
+quarter. From hence the Via delle Fornaci ascends the hill, and leads to
+the broad new carriage-road, formed in 1867 under the superintendence
+of the Cav. Trochi. A Via-Crucis with a staircase will conduct the
+pedestrian by a shorter way to the platform on the hill-top.
+
+The succession of beggars who infest this hill and stretch out their
+maimed limbs or kiss their hands to the passers-by will call to mind the
+lines of Juvenal:
+
+    "Cæcus adulator, dirusque a ponte satelles,
+    Dignus Aricinos qui mendicaret ad axes,
+    Blandaque devexæ jactaret basia rhedæ."
+
+    _Sat._ iv. 116.
+
+_The Church of S. Pietro in Montorio_ was built by Ferdinand and
+Isabella of Spain, from designs of Baccio Pintelli, on the site of an
+oratory founded by Constantine upon the supposed spot of St. Peter's
+crucifixion.
+
+The first chapel on the right belongs to the Barberini, and contains
+pictures by _Sebastian del Piombo_, (painted in oil upon stone, a
+process which has caused them to be much blackened by time,) from
+drawings of _Michael Angelo_. The central picture represents the
+Scourging of Christ, a subject of which Sebastian was especially fond,
+as it gave the opportunity of displaying his great anatomical power. On
+the left is St. Peter, on the right St. Francis,--on the ceiling is the
+Transfiguration,--outside the arch are a Prophet and a Sibyl. The second
+chapel on the right has paintings by pupils of Perugino; the fifth
+contains St. Paul healed by Ananias, by _Vasari_.
+
+The fourth chapel on the right is of some interest in the history of
+art. Julius III. had it greatly at heart to build and beautify this
+chapel as a memorial to his family, to contain the tombs of his uncle
+Cardinal Antonio di Monti, and of Fabiano, who first founded the
+splendours of his house. The work was entrusted to Michael Angelo and
+Vasari, who were at that time on terms of intimate friendship. They
+disputed about their subordinates. Vasari wished to employ Simone Mosca
+for the ornaments, and Raffaello da Montalupo for the statues; Michael
+Angelo objected to having any ornamental work at all, saying that where
+there were to be marble figures, there ought to be nothing else, and he
+would have nothing to do with Montalupo because his figures for the tomb
+of Julius II. had turned out so ill. When the chapel was finished
+Michael Angelo confessed himself in the wrong for not having allowed
+more ornament. The statues were entrusted to Bartolomeo Ammanati.
+
+The first chapel on the left has St. Francis receiving the stigmata
+attributed to _Giovanni de Vecchi_.
+
+     "A barber of the Cardinal S. Giorgio was an artist, who painted
+     very well in tempera, but had no idea of design. He made friends
+     with Michael-Angelo, who made him a cartoon of a St. Francis
+     receiving the stigmata, which the barber carefully carried out in
+     colour, and his picture is now placed in the first chapel on the
+     left of the entrance of S. Pietro in Montorio."--_Vasari_, vi.
+
+The third chapel on the left contains a Virgin and Child with St. Anne,
+of the school of Perugino; the fourth, a fine Entombment, by an unknown
+hand; the fifth, the Baptism of Christ, said to be by _Daniele da
+Volterra_.
+
+The Transfiguration of Raphael was painted for this church, and remained
+here till the French invasion. When it was returned from the Louvre it
+was kept at the Vatican. Had it been restored to this church, it would
+have been destroyed in the siege of 1849, when the tribune and
+bell-tower were thrown down. Here, in front of the high altar, the
+unhappy Beatrice Cenci was buried without any monument.
+
+Irish travellers may be interested in the gravestones in the nave, of
+Hugh O'Neil of Tyrone, Baron Dungannon, and O'Donnell of Tyrconnell
+(1608). Near the door is the fine tomb, with the beautiful sleeping
+figure of Julian, Archbishop of Ragusa, ob. 1510, inscribed "Bonis et
+Mors et Vita dulcis est." An inscription below the steps in front of the
+church commemorates the translation of a miraculous image of the Virgin
+hither in 1714.
+
+In the cloister is the _Tempietto_, a small domed building resting on
+sixteen Doric columns, built by Bramante in 1502, on the spot where St.
+Peter's cross is said to have stood. A few grains of the sacred sand
+from the hole in the centre of the chapel are given to visitors by the
+monks as a relic.
+
+     "St. Peter, when he was come to the place of execution, requested
+     of the officers that he might be crucified with his head downwards,
+     alleging that he was not worthy to suffer in the same manner his
+     divine Master had died before him. He had preached the cross of
+     Christ, had borne it in his heart, and its marks in his body, by
+     sufferings and mortification, and he had the happiness to end his
+     life on the cross. The Lord was pleased not only that he should die
+     for his love, but in the same manner himself had died for us, by
+     expiring on the cross, which was the throne of his love. Only the
+     apostle's humility made a difference, in desiring to be crucified
+     with his head downward. His Master looked toward heaven, which by
+     his death he opened to men; but he judged that a sinner formed from
+     dust, and going to return to dust, ought rather in confusion to
+     look on the earth, as unworthy to raise his eyes to heaven. St.
+     Ambrose, St. Austin, and St. Prudentius ascribe this his petition
+     partly to his humility, and partly to his desire of suffering more
+     for Christ. Seneca mentions that the Romans sometimes crucified men
+     with their heads downward; and Eusebius testifies that several
+     martyrs were put to that cruel death. Accordingly, the executioners
+     easily granted the apostle his extraordinary request. St.
+     Chrysostom, St. Austin, and St. Austerius say that he was nailed to
+     the cross; Tertullian mentions that he was tied with cords. He was
+     probably both nailed and bound with ropes."--_Alban Butler._
+
+The view from the front of the church is almost unrivalled.
+
+Behind it is the famous _Fontana Paolina_, whose name, by a curious
+coincidence, combines those of its architect, Fontana, and its
+originator, Paul V. It was erected in 1611, and is supplied with water
+from the Lake of Bracciano, by the aqueduct of the Aqua Trajana,
+thirty-five miles in length. The red granite columns, which divide the
+fountain, were brought from the temple of Minerva in the Forum
+Transitorium.
+
+     "The pleasant, natural sound of falling water, not unlike that of a
+     distant cascade in the forest, may be heard in many of the Roman
+     streets and piazzas, when the tumult of the city is hushed; for
+     consuls, emperors, and popes, the great men of every age, have
+     found no better way of immortalising their memories, than by the
+     shifting, indestructible, ever new, yet unchanging, up-gush and
+     down-fall of water. They have written their names in that unstable
+     element, and proved it a more durable record than brass or
+     marble."--_Hawthorne._
+
+     "Il n'y a rien encore, dans quelque état que ce soit, à opposer aux
+     magnifiques fontaines qu'on voit à Rome dans les places et les
+     carrefours, ni à l'abondance des eaux qui ne cessent jamais de
+     couler; magnificence d'autant plus louable que l'utilité publique y
+     est jointe."--_Duclos._
+
+A little beyond this fountain is the modern _Porta S. Pancrazio_, near
+the site of the ancient Porta Aurelia, built by Pius IX. in 1857, to
+replace a gate destroyed by the French under Oudinot in 1849. Many
+buildings outside the gate, injured at the same time, still remain in
+ruins.
+
+The lane on the right, inside the gate, leads to the _Villa Lante_,
+built in 1524 by Giulio Romano, for Bartolomeo da Pescia, secretary of
+Clement VII. It still contains some frescoes of Giulio Romano, though
+they are only lately uncovered, as the house was used, until the last
+two years, as a succursale to the Convent of the Sacré Coeur at the
+Trinità de' Monti.
+
+Not far outside the gate are the _Church and Convent of S. Pancrazio_,
+founded in the sixth century by Pope Symmachus, but modernized in 1609
+by Cardinal Torres. Here Crescenzio Nomentano, the famous consul of Rome
+in the tenth century, is buried; here Narses, after the defeat of
+Totila, was met by the pope and cardinals, and conducted in triumph to
+St. Peter's to return thanks for his victory; here, also, Peter II. of
+Arragon was crowned by Innocent III., and Louis of Naples was received
+by John XII.
+
+A flight of steps leads from the church to the _Catacomb of Calepodius_,
+where many of the early popes and martyrs were buried. It has no
+especial characteristic to make it worth visiting. Another flight of
+steps leads to the spot where S. Pancrazio was martyred. His body rests
+with that of St. Victor beneath the altar. A parish church in London is
+dedicated to St. Pancras, in whose name kings of France used to confirm
+their treaties.
+
+     "In the persecution under Diocletian, this young saint, who was
+     only fourteen years of age, offered himself voluntarily as a
+     martyr, defending boldly before the emperor the cause of the
+     Christians. He was therefore beheaded by the sword, and his body
+     was honourably buried by Christian women. His church, near the gate
+     of S. Pancrazio, has existed since the year 500. St. Pancras was in
+     the middle ages regarded as the protector against false oaths, and
+     the avenger of perjury. It was believed that those who swore
+     falsely by St. Pancras were immediately and visibly punished; hence
+     his popularity."--_Jameson's Sacred Art._
+
+Turning to the left from the gate, on the side of the hill between this
+and the Porta Portese, is the _Catacomb of S. Ponziano_.
+
+     "Here is the only perfect specimen still extant of a primitive
+     subterranean baptistery. A small stream of water runs through this
+     cemetery, and at this one place the channel has been deepened so as
+     to form a kind of reservoir, in which a certain quantity of water
+     is retained. We descend into it by a flight of steps, and the depth
+     of water it contains varies with the height of the Tiber. When that
+     river is swollen so as to block up the exit by which this stream
+     usually empties itself, the waters are sometimes so dammed back as
+     to inundate the adjacent galleries of the catacomb; at other times
+     there are not above three or four feet of water. At the back of
+     the font, and springing out of the water, is painted a beautiful
+     Latin cross, from whose sides leaves and flowers are budding forth,
+     and on the two arms rest ten candlesticks, with the letters Alpha
+     and Omega suspended by a little chain below them. On the front of
+     the arch over the font is the Baptism of our Lord in the river
+     Jordan by St. John, whilst St. Abdon, St. Sennen, St. Miles, and
+     other saints of the Oriental Church occupy the sides. These
+     paintings are all of late date, perhaps of the seventh or eighth
+     century: but there is no reason to doubt but that the baptistery
+     had been so used from the earliest times. We have distinct evidence
+     in the Acts of the Martyrs that the sacrament was not unfrequently
+     administered in the cemeteries."--_The Roman Catacombs--Northcote._
+
+In this catacomb is an early _Portrait of Christ_, much resembling that
+at SS. Nereo ed Achilleo.
+
+     "The figure is, however, draped, and the whole work has certain
+     peculiarities which appear to mark a later period of art. Both
+     these portraits agree, if not strictly, yet in general features,
+     with the description in Lentulus's letter (to the Roman senate),
+     and portraits and descriptions together serve to prove that the
+     earliest Christian delineators of the person of the Saviour
+     followed no arbitrary conception of their own, but were guided
+     rather by a particular traditional type, differing materially from
+     the Grecian ideal, and which they transmitted in a great measure to
+     future ages."--_Kugler_, i. 16.
+
+In this vicinity are the Catacombs of SS. Abdon and Sennen, of St.
+Julius, and of Sta. Generosa.
+
+Opposite the Porta S. Pancrazio is the entrance of the beautiful _Villa
+Pamfili Doria_ (open to pedestrians and to _two-horse_ carriages after
+12 o'clock on Mondays and Fridays), called by the Italians "Belrespiro."
+The _Casino_ contains a few (not first-rate) ancient statues, and some
+views of Venice in the seventeenth century by _Heintius_. The garden,
+for which especial permission must be obtained, is full of beautiful
+azaleas and camellias.
+
+From the ilex-fringed terrace in front of the casino is one of the best
+views of St. Peter's, which is here seen without the town,--backed by
+the Campagna, the Sabine Mountains, and the blue peak of Soracte. The
+road to the left leads through pine-shaded lawns and woods, and by some
+modern ruins, to the lake, above which is a graceful fountain. A small
+temple raised in 1851 commemorates the French who fell here during the
+siege of Rome in 1849. The word "Mary" in large letters of clipped box
+on the other side of the grounds is a memorial of the late beloved
+Princess Doria (Lady Mary Talbot). Not far from this is a columbarium.
+
+The site of the Villa Doria was once occupied by the gardens of Galba,
+and here the murdered emperor is believed to have been buried.
+
+     "Un certain Argius, autrefois esclave de Galba, ramassa son corps,
+     qui avait subi mille outrages, et alla lui creuser une humble
+     sépulture dans les jardins de son ancien maître; mais il fallut
+     retrouver la tête: elle avait été mutilée et promenée par les
+     goujats de l'armée. Enfin Argius la trouva le lendemain, et la
+     réunit au corps déjà brûlé. Les jardins de Galba étaient sur le
+     Janicule, près de la voie Aurélienne, et on croit que le lieu qui
+     vit le dernier dénouement de cette affreuse tragédie est celui
+     qu'occupe aujourd'hui la plus charmante promenade de Rome, là où
+     inclinent avec tant de grâce sur les pentes semées d'anémones et où
+     dessinent si délicatement sur l'azur du ciel et des montagnes leurs
+     parasols élégants les pins de la villa Pamphili."--_Ampère, Emp._
+     ii. 80.
+
+The foundation of the Villa Pamfili Doria is due to the wealth extorted
+by Olympia Maldacchini during the reign of her brother-in-law, Innocent
+X.
+
+     "Innocent X. fut, pour ainsi dire, contraint de fonder la maison
+     Pamphili. Les casuistes et les jurisconsultes levèrent ses
+     scrupules, car il en avait. Ils lui prouvèrent que le pape était en
+     droit d'économiser sur les revenus du saint-siége pour assurer
+     l'avenir de sa famille. Ils fixèrent, avec une modération qui nous
+     fait dresser les cheveux sur la tête, le chiffre des libéralités
+     permises à chaque pape. Suivant eux, le souverain pontife pouvait,
+     sans abuser, établir un majorat de quatre mille francs de rente
+     nette, fonder une seconde géniture en faveur de quelque parent
+     moins avantagé, et donner neuf cent mille francs de dot à chacune
+     de ses nièces. Le général des jésuites, R. P. Vitelleschi, approuva
+     cette décision. Là-dessus, Innocent X. se mit à fonder la maison
+     Pamphili, à construire le palais Pamphili, à créer la villa
+     Pamphili, et à pamphiliser, tant qu'il put, les finances de
+     l'église et de l'état."--_About, Rome Contemporaine._
+
+There are two ways of returning to Rome from the Villa Doria--one, which
+descends straight into the valley to the Porta Cavalleggieri, passing on
+the left the Church of Sta. Maria delle Fornaci; the other, skirting the
+walls of the city beneath the Villa Lante, which passes a _Chapel_,
+where St. Andrew's head, lost one day by the canons of St. Peter's, was
+miraculously re-discovered!
+
+     "On ne voit pas que de nouveaux monuments religieux se rapportent
+     aux deux apparitions de Pyrrhus en Italie; seulement les augures
+     firent rétablir le temple du dieu des foudres nocturnes, le dieu
+     étrusco-sabin Summanus, en expiation sans doute de ce que la tête
+     de la statue de Summanus, placée sur le temple de Jupiter
+     Capitolin, avait été détachée par la foudre, et, après qu'on l'eut
+     cherchée en vain, retrouvée dans le Tibre.
+
+     "Je ne compare pas, mais j'ai vu le long des murs de Rome, entre la
+     porte Cavalleggieri et la porte Saint Pancrace, une petite chapelle
+     élevée au lieu où l'on a retrouvé la tête de Saint André apportée
+     solennellement de Constantinople à Rome au quinzième siècle, et qui
+     s'était perdue."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ iii. 55.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "Therefore farewell, ye hills, and ye, ye envineyarded ruins!
+      Therefore farewell, ye walls, palaces, pillars, and domes!
+    Therefore farewell, far seen, ye peaks of the mythic Albano,
+      Seen from Montorio's height, Tibur and Æsula's hills!
+    Ah, could we once ere we go, could we stand, while, to ocean descending,
+      Sinks o'er the yellow dark plain slowly the yellow broad sun,
+    Stand from the forest emerging at sunset, at once in the champaign,
+      Open, but studded with trees, chestnuts umbrageous and old,
+    E'en in those fair open fields that incurve to thy beautiful hollow,
+      Nemi imbedded in wood, Nemi inurn'd in the hill!--
+    Therefore farewell, ye plains, and ye hills, and the City Eternal!
+      Therefore farewell! we depart, but to behold you again!"
+
+    _A. H. Clough, Amours de Voyage._
+
+
+THE END.
+
+[Illustration: ROME.
+
+Showing the more important streets and buildings. (left-side of map)]
+
+[Illustration: ROME.
+
+Showing the more important streets and buildings. (right-side of map)]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+    A.
+
+    Academy, French, in the Villa Medici, i. 49;
+      Costume, i. 55;
+      di S. Luca, i. 167
+
+    Æsculapius, temple of, ii. 364
+
+    Agger of Servius Tullius, ii. 38
+
+    Agrippa, baths of, ii. 211
+
+    Alberteschi family, Castle of the, ii. 368
+
+    Aldobrandini family, palace of, i. 461;
+      burial-place of, ii. 214
+
+    Alexis, St., frescoes of the life of, i. 346;
+      the story of, i. 362
+
+    Almo, the, i. 373, 375, 413; ii. 408
+
+    Altieri family, palace of, i. 107;
+      burial-place of, ii. 216
+
+    Amphitheatrum Castrense, ii. 131
+
+    Angelico, Fra, pictures by, ii. 216, 324, 348, 444;
+      tomb of, i. 219
+
+    Angelo, St., Castle, ii. 227;
+      Ponte, ii. 226
+
+    Anicii, Castle of the, ii. 362
+
+    Anio, the, ii. 31
+
+    Antemnæ, site of, ii. 420
+
+    Antinous, the, ii. 308
+
+    Apollo, Temple of, i. 296; ii. 134
+        Belvedere, ii. 311
+
+    Appia, Via, i. 372
+
+    Aqua Acetosa, ii. 420
+      Alexandrina, ii. 133
+      Argentina, i. 229
+      Bollicante, ii. 133
+      Claudia, ii. 113
+      Felice, ii. 124
+      Marcia, ii. 95
+
+    Aqueduct, Claudian, ii. 125
+
+    Arches--
+      Arco dell' Annunziata, ii. 380
+        di S. Lazzaro, ii. 393
+        Oscuro, ii. 420
+        dei Pantani, i. 165
+      of Constantine, i. 206
+      of Dolabella, i. 330
+      of Drusus, i. 387
+      of Gallienus, ii. 71
+      of Janus, i. 229
+      of Septimius Severus, i. 173;
+        miniature, 232
+      of Tiberius, i. 173
+      of Titus, i. 200
+
+    Arnolphus, ii. 373
+
+    Arpino, Cav. d', grave of, ii. 105
+
+    Artists, studios of, i. 30
+
+    Atticus, Herodes, story of, i. 414, 415
+
+    Augustus, Palace of, i. 280
+
+    Aurelian, Wall, i. 385;
+      Temple of the Sun built by, i. 436;
+      favourite residence of, ii. 12
+
+    Ave-Maria bell, i. 44
+
+    Aventine, the, i. 348
+
+
+    B.
+
+    Babuino, the, i. 36
+
+    Balconies, origin of, i. 61
+
+    Bambino, Il Santissimo, i. 151
+
+    Baptistery of the Lateran, ii. 96
+
+    Barberini,
+      Palazzo, i. 438
+      Cardinal, ii. 9
+      Casino of the, ii. 12
+      Castle of the, ii. 34
+      Garden of the, ii. 45
+
+    Barcaccia, the, i. 57
+
+    Basilicas (_pagan_)--
+      of Æmilius Paulus, i. 181
+      Constantine, i. 184; ii. 80
+      Julia, i. 175
+      in the Palace of the Cæsars, i. 282
+      Porcia, i. 182
+
+    Basilicas (_Christian_)--
+      Sessorian, ii. 131
+      S. Agnese fuori le Mura, ii. 26
+      S. Alessandro, ii. 32
+      S. Croce in Gerusalemme, ii. 128
+      Eudoxian, ii. 54
+      S. John Lateran, ii. 98
+      S. Lorenzo, ii. 136
+      S. Maria Maggiore, ii. 81
+      S. Pietro, ii. 242
+      S. Paolo fuori le Mura, ii. 402
+      S. Sebastiano, i. 416
+      S. Stefano, ii. 124
+
+    Baths--
+      of Agrippa, ii. 211
+      of Caracalla, i. 376
+      of Constantine, i. 436
+      of Diocletian, ii. 36, 38
+      of Livia, ii. 423
+      of Nero, ii. 202
+      of Titus, ii. 52
+
+    Befana, festival of the, ii. 202
+
+    Benedict, St., house inhabited by, ii. 368
+
+    Bernini, Palazzo, i. 73
+
+    Bocca della Verita, i. 233
+
+    Borghese, Camillo, tomb of, ii. 87
+      Cervaletto, farm at, ii. 85
+      Palace, i. 65
+      Piazza, i. 66
+      Villa, ii. 411
+      Casino, ii. 413
+      Chapel of, ii. 85
+
+    Borgia, family burial-place of, ii. 98
+      Cæsar, ii. 325
+      Lucrezia, ii. 62
+      Rodrigo, Pope Alexander VI., grave of, ii. 170;
+        empty tomb of, 269;
+        representations of the life of, 325
+
+    Borgo, the, ii. 235
+
+    Boschetto, the, i. 50
+
+    Bramante, ii. 244, 284, 308
+
+    Burial-Ground,
+      German, ii. 278
+      Jewish, i. 355
+      Protestant, ii. 397
+      Roman, ii. 144
+
+
+    C.
+
+    Cæsars, Palace of the, i. 273
+
+    Caius Gracchus, spot where he was killed, ii. 377
+
+    Caligula, Palace of, i. 292;
+      bridge of, 299;
+      obelisk brought to Rome by, ii. 238;
+      circus of, 283
+
+    Cameos, i. 29
+
+    Campaniles--
+      S. Benedetto a Piscinuola, ii. 368
+      S. Cecilia, ii. 372
+      S. Giovanni a Porta Latina, i. 384
+      S. Lorenzo in Lucina, i. 73
+      S. Lorenzo Pane e Perna, i. 468
+      S. Maria in Cosmedin, i. 234
+      S. Maria in Monticelli, ii. 182
+      S. Prassede, ii. 71
+      S. Pudenziana, i. 470
+      S. Silvestro, i. 74
+      S. Sisto, i. 382
+
+    Campo--
+      Militare, ii. 34
+      di Fiori, ii. 176
+
+    Campus Esquilinus, ii. 36
+
+    Campus Martius, ii. 148
+
+    Canova, i. 101; ii. 251, 266, 308, 347, 415
+
+    Capena, Porta, site of, i. 373;
+      historical interest of, 432
+
+    Capitol, the, i. 109--158
+
+    Cappuccini, piazza, ii. 7
+      Cemetery, 10
+
+    Caracci, Ann., tomb of, ii. 210
+
+    Carinæ, the, ii. 47
+
+    Caritas Romana, i. 241
+
+    Casale dei Pazzi, ii. 32
+
+    Castel Giubeleo, ii. 425
+
+    Castles of--
+      St. Angelo, ii. 227--234
+      the Alberteschi, ii. 368
+      the Anicii, ii. 368
+      the Anguillara, ii. 379
+      Crescenza, ii. 423
+      Rustica, ii. 135.
+
+    Catacombs--
+      of S. Agnese, ii. 29
+      of Calepodius, ii. 453
+      of St. Calixtus, i. 390--405
+      of S. Ciriaca, ii. 142--145
+      of S. Felicitas, ii. 20
+      of S. Felix, i. 49
+      of SS. Gianutus and Basilla, ii. 418
+      of S. Hippolytus, ii. 147
+      Jewish, i. 407
+      of SS. Nereo ed Achilleo, i. 408
+      of SS. Pietro e Marcellino, ii. 133
+      of S. Pretextatus, i. 405
+      of S. Ponziano, ii. 453
+      of S. Priscilla, ii. 20--24
+      of the Santi Quattro, ii. 125
+      of S. Sebastiano, i. 417
+      of St. Valentine, ii. 418
+
+    Cathedra Petri, ii. 261.
+
+    Catherine, S., of Siena, Church of, i. 459;
+      tomb of, ii. 217.
+
+    Cecilia. S., relics and tomb of, ii. 373;
+      house of, 375;
+      grave of, i. 397
+
+    Cemeteries--
+      _See_ Burial-grounds
+
+    Cenci, tragedy of the, i. 260--267;
+      portraits of Lucrezia and Beatrice, i. 440;
+      grave of Beatrice, ii. 450
+
+    Centocellæ, ii. 133
+
+    Chapels--
+      of St. Andrew, i. 325;
+      of St. Andrew's head, ii. 421
+
+    Chapter House of S. Sisto, i. 382
+
+    Churches of--
+      S. Adriano, i. 190
+      S. Agata dei Goti, i. 461
+      S. Agnese, ii. 193
+      S. Agnese fuori le Mura, ii. 26
+      S. Agostino, ii. 157
+      S. Alessio, i. 362
+      S. Anastasia, i. 224
+      S. Andrea a Monte Cavallo, i. 444
+      S. Andrea delle Fratte, i. 75
+      S. Andrea della Valle, ii. 184
+      S. Angelo in Pescheria, i. 248
+      S. Antonio Abbate, ii. 78
+      S. Apollinare, ii. 159
+      SS. Apostoli, i. 100
+      Ara-Coeli, i. 117, 144
+      S. Balbina, i. 370
+      S. Bartolomeo, ii. 363
+      S. Benedetto a Piscinuola, ii. 368
+      S. Bernardo, ii. 39, 45
+      S. Bibiana, ii. 74
+      S. Brigitta, ii. 173
+      S. Buonaventura, i. 204
+      S. Caio, i. 443; ii. 45
+      S. Calisto, ii. 387
+      I. Cappuccini, ii. 7
+      La Caravita, i. 85
+      S. Carlo a Catinari, ii. 183
+      S. Carlo in Corso, i. 64
+      S. Carlo a Quattro Fontane, i. 43
+      S. Caterina de' Funari, i. 268
+      S. Caterina di Siena, i. 459; ii. 224
+      S. Cecilia, ii. 370
+      S. Celso in Banchi, ii. 224
+      S. Cesareo, i. 382
+      S. Claudio, i. 76
+      S. Clemente, i. 342
+      S. Cosimato, ii. 388
+      SS. Cosmo e Damiano, i. 191
+      S. Costanza, ii. 28
+      S. Crisogono, ii. 381
+      S. Crispino al Ponte, ii. 369
+      S. Croce in Gerusalemme, ii. 128
+      I Crociferi, i. 81
+      SS. Domenico e Sisto, i. 461
+      S. Dionisio, i. 474
+      Domine Quo Vadis, i. 389
+      S. Dorotea, ii. 388
+      English and American, ii. 410
+      S. Eusebio, ii. 77
+      S. Eustachio, ii. 203
+      S. Francesco di Paola, ii. 62
+        a Ripa, ii. 379
+      S. Francesca Romana, i. 195
+      Gesù e Maria, i. 61
+      S. Giacomo degli Incurabili, i. 61
+      S. Giacomo Scossa Cavalli, ii. 237
+      S. Giorgio in Velabro, i. 231
+      S. Giovanni Decollato, i. 239
+      S. Giovanni de' Fiorentini, ii. 225
+      S. Giovanni alla Lungara, ii. 439
+      SS. Giovanni e Paolo, i. 321, 327
+      S. Giovanni della Pigna, ii. 209
+      S. Giovanni a Porta Latina, i. 384
+      S. Girolamo della Carità, ii. 172
+      S. Girolamo degli Schiavoni, i. 60
+      S. Giuseppe dei Falegnami, i. 157
+      Greek, i. 54
+      S. Gregorio, i. 319, 322
+      S. Ignazio, i. 85
+      Il Gesù, i. 106
+      S. Isidoro, ii. 11
+      S. Ivo of Brittany, ii. 155
+      SS. Lorenzo e Damaso, ii. 178
+      S. Lorenzo in Fonte, i. 468
+        in Lucina, i. 73
+        fuori le Mura, ii. 136
+        Pane e Perna, i. 466
+      S. Luigi dei Francesi, ii. 200
+      S. Marcello, i. 87
+      S. Marco, i. 105
+      S. Maria degli Angeli, ii. 40
+        dell' Anima, ii. 160
+        in Aquiro, i. 79
+        Aventina, i. 365
+        in Campitelli, i. 269
+        in Cappella, ii. 370
+        della Concezione, ii. 7
+        in Cosmedin, i. 232
+        in Domenica, i. 332
+        delle Fornaci, ii. 456
+        Liberatrice, i. 190
+        di Loreto, i. 162
+        Maggiore, ii. 81
+        sopra Minerva, ii. 212
+        di Monserrato, ii. 170
+        in Monticelli, ii. 182
+        in Monti, i. 464
+        dell' Orto, ii. 378
+        della Pace, ii. 163
+        della Pietà in Campo Santo, ii. 278
+        del Popolo, i. 39
+        Scala Coeli, ii. 399
+        Traspontina, ii. 236
+        in Trastevere, ii. 382
+        in Trivia, i. 81
+        in Valicella, ii. 166
+        in Via Lata, i. 89
+        di Vienna, i. 162
+        della Vittoria, ii. 43
+      S. Marta, ii. 278
+      S. Martina, i. 188
+      S. Martino al Monte, ii. 63
+      S. Michaele in Sassia, ii. 280
+      SS. Nereo ed Achilleo, i. 379
+      S. Nicolo in Carcere, i. 240
+        in Tolentino, ii. 12
+      S. Onofrio, ii. 434
+      S. Onofrio in Campagna, ii. 428
+      dell' Orazione, ii. 175
+      S. Pancrazio, ii. 452
+      S. Pantaleone, ii. 188
+      S. Paolo fuori le Mura, ii. 403
+        Primo Eremita, i. 473
+        allé Tre Fontane, ii. 401
+      delle Perpetua Adoratrice del Divin Sacramento del Altare, i. 446
+      S. Pietro in Carcere, i. 153
+      SS. Pietro e Marcellino, ii. 122
+      S. Pietro in Montorio, ii. 449
+        in Vincoli, ii. 54
+      S. Prassede, ii. 65
+      S. Prisca, i. 367
+      S. Pudenziana, i. 469
+      SS. Quattro Incoronati, i. 340
+      SS. Rocco e Martino, i. 60
+      S. Sabba, i. 369
+      S. Sabina, i. 356
+      S. Salvatore in Lauro, ii. 224
+      S. Salvatore in Torrione, ii. 280
+      Il Santissimo Redentore, ii. 71
+      S. Sebastiano, i. 416
+        in Palatino, i. 203
+      S. Silvestro a Monte Cavallo, i. 459
+      S. Sisto, i. 381
+      S. Stefano, ii. 278
+      S. Stefano Rotondo, i. 333
+      S. Susanna, ii. 44
+      S. Sylvestro in Capite, i. 74
+      S. Teodoro, i. 223
+      S. Teresa, ii. 45
+      S. Tomaso dei Cenci, i. 260
+      S. Tomaso degli Inglesi, ii. 170
+      Trinità de' Monti, i. 52
+      Trinità dei Pellegrini, ii, 181
+      S. Urbano, i. 413
+      SS. Vincenzo ed Anastasio, ii. 400
+      S. Vitale, i. 474
+      S. Vito, ii. 71
+
+    Cicero, House of, i. 301;
+      received at the Porta Capena, 375
+
+    Cimeterio dei Tedeschi, oldest Christian burial-ground, ii. 278
+
+    Circus--
+      Agonalis, ii. 196
+      of Caligula, ii. 283
+      of Flaminius, site of, i. 268
+      of Maxentius, i. 422
+      Maximus, i. 288
+      of Nero, ii. 283
+
+    Clement, St., Church and house of. i. 342--347
+
+    Clivus Capitolinus, i. 170, 172
+      Martis, i. 388
+      Victoriæ, i. 292
+
+    Cloaca Maxima, i. 229
+
+    Cloisters--
+      of S. Alessio, i. 364
+      of the Angeli, ii. 42
+      of S. Gregorio, i. 322
+      of the Lateran, ii. 105
+      of S. Lorenzo, ii. 144
+      of S. Paolo, ii. 405
+      of S. Pietro in Vincoli, ii. 62
+
+    Coelian Hill, i. 316--342
+
+    Coliseum, i. 207--220
+
+    Collatia, ruins of, ii. 135
+
+    College for English missionaries, ii. 171
+
+    Collegio di Propaganda Fede, i. 58
+
+    Collegio Romano, i. 87
+
+    Colonna, Agnese Gaetani, funeral urn of, ii. 273
+      Gardens, i. 458
+      Lorenzo, murder of, ii. 224
+      Oddone, tomb of, ii. 100
+      Palazzo, i. 98
+      Piazza, i. 77
+      Princess, tomb of, ii. 213
+      Vittoria, residence of, i. 75;
+        death of, ii. 387
+
+    Columbaria,--
+      of the Arruntia family, ii. 77
+      of the Freedmen of Octavia, i. 385
+
+    Columna Lactaria, i, 242
+
+    Columns--
+      Colonna della Vergine, ii, 80
+      of M. Antoninus, i. 77
+      of Antoninus Pius, ii. 334
+      of Piazza di Spagna, i. 57
+      of Phocas, i. 179
+      of S. Prassede, ii. 68
+      of Trajan, i. 160
+      of the Vatican Council, ii. 363
+
+    Connell, Daniel O', monument of, i. 462
+
+    Constantine, statue of, i. 118;
+      basilica of, i. 184;
+      arch of, i. 206;
+      frescoes representing the conversion of, i. 341;
+      baths of, i. 458;
+      frescoes of legendary history of, ii. 99;
+      erection of a basilica on the site of St. Peter's, by, ii. 242;
+      Cimeterio del Tedeschi, set apart by, ii. 278;
+      Saxa Rubra, site of decisive victory of, ii. 425
+
+    Convents of--
+      S. Agata in Suburra, i. 461
+      S. Alessio, i. 362
+      Ara-Coeli, i. 153
+      S. Bartolomeo, ii. 363
+      S. Bernardo, ii. 45
+      the Buon Pastore, ii. 439
+      S. Buenaventura, i. 204
+      S. Caterina, i. 460
+      S. Cecilia, ii. 370
+      S. Eusebio, ii. 77
+      S. Francesca Romana, i. 198
+      S. Francesco a Rapa, ii. 379
+      the Gesù, i. 107
+      S. Gregorio, i. 326
+      S. Maria degli Angeli, ii. 42
+      the Minerva, ii. 222
+      Monache Polacche, ii. 72
+      the Noviciate of the order of Jesus, i. 445
+      S. Onofrio, ii. 435
+      the Oratorians, ii. 166
+      S. Pancrazio, ii. 452
+      S. Paolo, ii. 387
+      S. Pietro in Vincoli, ii. 53
+      Poor Clares, ii. 388
+      the Pregatrici, ii. 12
+      S. Sabina, i. 355
+      the Sacré Coeur, i. 53
+      Santi Quattro Incoronati, i. 340, 342
+      Sepolte Vive, the, or Farnesiani nuns, i. 465
+      S. Silvestro a Monte Cavallo, i. 459
+      S. Sisto, i. 381
+      S. Tomaso in Formis, i. 331
+      Tor de Specchi, i. 270
+      Ursuline nuns, i. 64,
+      Visitandine nuns, i. 304
+
+    Cordieri, Nicolo, statues by, i. 325, 326; ii. 99, 214
+
+    Cordonnata, La, i. 118
+
+    Corsini, Palazzo, ii. 439
+      Chapel of the, ii. 103
+
+    Corso, the, i. 60
+
+    Crypts--
+      of S. Alessio, i. 364
+      of SS. Cosmo e Damiano, i. 191
+      of S. Croce in Gerusalemme, ii. 130
+      of S. Martina, i. 188
+      of S. Martino al Monte, ii. 63
+      of St. Peter's, ii. 267
+      of S. Prassede, ii. 68
+
+    Crypto-Porticus, i. 281
+
+    Cybele, Temple of, i. 294;
+      Sacred Stone of, 294;
+      washing the statue of, ii. 408
+
+
+    D.
+
+    Dalmatica di Papa San Leone, in Treasury of St. Peter's, ii. 276
+
+    Damasus, Pope St., inscriptions of, i. 396, 407, 418
+
+    Diana, Temple of, i. 353
+
+    Diavolo, Casa del, ii. 124
+
+    Diocletian, Baths of, ii. 38
+
+    Doctors in Rome, i. 28
+
+    Domenichino, his most famous fresco, i. 325;
+      his masterpiece, ii. 349
+
+    Dominic, St., Convent of, i. 355;
+      orange-tree of, 356;
+      vision of, 358;
+      legends of, 359, 360;
+      first residence of, 381;
+      Divine mission of, 382;
+      place of first meeting with St. Francis, ii. 106
+
+    Domitian. Palace of, i. 312;
+      martyrs under, 334
+
+    Doria, Palazzo, i. 93;
+      Villa, ii. 454.
+
+    Dorotea, Sta., legend of, ii. 390
+
+    Drawing, materials, shops for, i. 29;
+      list of subjects for, 34;
+      best months for, in Rome, 35
+
+
+    E.
+
+    Easter benediction, ceremony of the, ii. 240, 241
+
+    Egeria, Fountain of, i. 375;
+      Grotto and grove of, 413
+
+    Esquiline Hill, ii. 46--93
+
+    Eustace, St., legend of the conversion of, ii. 204.
+
+
+    F.
+
+    Fabii, scene of the destruction of the, ii. 424
+
+    Farnese, Palazzo, ii 174;
+      Palazzetto, 178
+
+    Faustulus, Hut of, i. 288
+
+    Festa degli Artisti, ii. 135
+
+    Filomena, Sta., ii. 22
+
+    Fiori, Mario di, ii. 442
+
+    Fontana, works of, ii. 89, 93, 96, 114, 238, 257, 391
+
+    Fontana Paolina, ii. 451
+
+    Forums--
+      of Augustus, i. 164
+      Boarium, i. 227
+      of Nerva, i. 165
+      Romanum, i. 168--185
+      of Trajan, i. 159
+
+    Fountains--
+      of the Barcaccia, i. 57
+      of Egeria, i. 375
+      of S. Maria degli Angeli, ii. 42
+      of S. Maria in Cosmedin, i. 235
+      of S. Maria in Trastevere, ii. 382
+      of the Mascherone, ii. 175
+      of Palazzo Aldobrandini, i. 461
+      in Palace of the Senator, i. 120
+      in Piazza Navona, ii. 196
+      in Piazza Pia, ii. 236
+      of the Tantarughe, i. 267
+      Paolina, ii. 451
+      of the Piazza Montanara, i. 242
+      of the Ponte Sisto, ii. 391
+      attributed to the prayers of Peter and Paul in prison, i. 156
+      of the Quirinal, i. 473
+      of the Termini, ii. 42
+      of the Tre Fontane, ii. 401
+      of Trevi, i. 79
+
+    Francis, St., relics of, ii. 379;
+      celebration of Christmas by, 380
+
+    Frangipani family, castle of the, i. 217;
+      fortress of the, ii. 62
+
+
+    G.
+
+    Galileo, place of trial of, ii. 222
+
+    Gardens--
+      of Adonis, i. 305
+      of Barberini Palace, i. 443
+      Botanic, ii. 439
+      Colonna, i. 458
+      containing Columbaria, i. 386
+      Corsini, ii. 445
+      Government, i. 379
+      of the Pincio, i. 46
+      Priorato, i. 365
+      of the Quirinal, i. 445
+      Vatican, ii. 333
+      of S. Silvia, i. 324
+      of Sallust, ii. 12
+      of Villa Medici, i. 49
+      of Villa Massimo, ii. 122
+      of Villa Negroni, ii. 35
+      of Villa Wolkonski, ii. 123
+
+    Germale, the, i. 279
+
+    Gesù Nazareno, miracle-working picture of, ii. 182
+
+    Ghetto, the, i. 250;
+      burial-ground for, 355
+
+    Giardino della Pigna, ii. 333
+
+    Giotto, works of, ii. 104, 215, 246, 277, 324
+
+    Græcostasis, i. 171
+
+    Gregory, St., legends of, i. 322; ii. 229;
+      Church of, i. 322;
+      monastic cell of, 324;
+      statue of, 326;
+      family to which he belonged, 363
+
+    Grottoes of Cerbara, ii. 135
+
+    Guidi, antiquity vendor, i. 379
+
+    Guido, important works of, i. 73, 325; ii. 7
+
+
+    H.
+
+    Heads of Lions, on bank of the Tiber, i. 239
+
+    Horti Lamiana, ii. 76
+
+    Hospitals--
+      Sta. Galla, i. 239
+      S. Gallicano, ii. 382
+      of S. Giacomo degli Incurabili, i. 61
+      German, ii. 161
+      of S. Giovanni Calabrita, ii. 365
+      of S. Giovanni Laterano, ii. 95
+      in Mausoleum of Augustus, i. 64
+      S. Michaele, ii. 376
+      of Santa Maria in Capella, ii. 370
+      of San Rocco, i. 60
+      of Santo Spirito, ii. 237
+      of the Trinità dei Pellegrini, ii. 181
+
+    Houses--
+      of Aquila and Priscilla, i. 368
+        Cicero, i. 301
+        Claude Lorraine, i. 54
+        S. Clement, i. 347
+        Clodius, i. 300
+        Crassus, i. 301
+        Drusus and Antonia, i. 292
+        the Fornarina, ii. 368
+        Hortensius, i. 304
+        Lucrezia Borgia, ii. 62
+        Mark Antony, i. 303
+      Nero's Golden, ii. 52
+      of Nicholas Poussin, i. 54
+        Octavius and Afra, i. 277
+        Palestrina, i. 339
+        Pudens, i. 469
+        Poets, ii. 50
+        Pompey, ii. 48
+        Pomponius Atticus, i. 435
+        the Queen of Poland, i. 54
+        Raphael, ii. 225
+        Rienzi, i. 236
+        S. Silvia, i. 321
+        Spurius Mælius, i. 272
+        the "Violinista," ii. 225
+
+
+    I.
+
+    Ignatius, S., rooms in which he lived, i. 107;
+      his martyrdom, 211
+
+    Inquisition, Palace of the, ii. 278
+
+    Intermontium, the, i. 116
+
+    Island in the Tiber, ii. 360-62
+
+
+    J.
+
+    Janiculan, the, ii. 432-434
+
+    Jesuits, Order of the, established, ii. 262;
+      re-established, 264
+
+    Jews, quarter of the, i. 250;
+      history of, in Rome, from early times, 250;
+      persecution of, 251, 252;
+      terms of occupation of houses by, 253;
+      revocation of laws against, 254;
+      population, government, and mortality, 255;
+      synagogue of, 256;
+      burial-ground of, 355;
+      cupidity of, 355;
+      catacomb of, 407;
+      custom of, on the election of a pope, ii. 166
+
+    Jupiter, Capitolinus, temples of, i. 111; ii. 366;
+      --Tonans,--Feretrius,--Pistor, temples of, i. 115;
+      statue of, 115;
+      --Stator, temple of, 247, 278;
+      --Inventor, temple of, ii. 392
+
+
+    K.
+
+    Kircherian Museum. i. 88
+
+
+    L.
+
+    La Madonna Consolatrice degli Afflitti, miraculous picture, ii. 221
+
+    Lanfranco, tomb of, ii. 385
+
+    Laocoon, the, ii. 309
+
+    Lares, shrine of the, i. 382
+
+    Lateran, obelisk of the, ii. 95;
+      baptistery of, 96;
+      cloisters of, 104;
+      five General Councils held at, 105;
+      ancient palace of, 108;
+      modern palace of, 114;
+      Christian Museum, 117;
+      Picture Gallery, 118;
+      School of Music, 121
+
+    Libraries, i. 29
+      Barberini, i. 437
+      Bibliotheca Casanatensis, ii. 222
+      of the Collegio Romano, i. 88
+      Corsini, ii. 445
+      of the Chiesa Nuova, ii. 167
+      of Palazzo Chigi, i. 76
+      of Santa Croce, ii. 131
+      of the Vatican, ii. 322
+
+    Locanda dell' Orso, ii. 223
+
+    Loggie of Raphael, ii. 337
+
+    Lorenzo, St., almsgiving of, i. 333;
+      sketch of life of, ii. 137;
+      trial of i. 283;
+      martyrdom of, i. 446;
+      burial-place of, 143;
+      cemetery of, 144
+
+    Lottery, Roman weekly drawing of the, ii. 198
+
+    Loyola, Ignatius, residence of, i. 107;
+      church where he was wont to preach, ii. 170
+
+    Lunatic Asylum, ii. 439
+
+    Lunghezza, ii. 135
+
+    Lupercal, the, i. 290
+
+    Luther, residence of, in Rome, i. 42
+
+
+    M.
+
+    Macellum Magnum, i. 334
+
+    Maderno, Stefano, masterpiece of, ii. 373
+
+    Malaria the, i. 21
+
+    Maldacchini, Olympia, influence of, ii. 197;
+      villa built by, 455
+
+    Mamertine Prisons, i. 153
+
+    Manufactory of Mosaics, ii. 359
+
+    Maranna, i. 375
+
+    Maratta, Carlo, monument of, ii. 40
+
+    Marmorata, the, ii. 393
+
+    Mars, temples of, i. 164, 373, 388
+
+    Martyrdoms--
+      best authenticated, i. 334--338
+      of Christians, place of, ii. 390
+      of S. Agata, i. 462
+      of S. Agnes, ii. 27
+      of S. Cecilia, ii. 371
+      of S. Ignatius, i. 211
+      of S. Gaudentius, i. 209
+      of S. Lorenzo, i. 466
+      of S. Martina, i. 212
+      of St. Paul, ii. 401
+      of St. Peter, ii. 451
+      of S. Prisca, i. 212
+      Pietra di Paragone, used in the, ii. 278
+
+    Masaccio, frescoes by, i. 343
+
+    Mausoleum of Augustus, i. 62;
+      statues at entrance of, 474
+      of Hadrian, ii. 227, 233
+
+    Medici, Villa, i. 49;
+      tombs of the Medici family, ii. 218, 219
+
+    Melozzo da Forli, important pictures by, i. 453; ii. 276, 357
+
+    Mentana, ii. 33
+
+    Meta Sudans, i. 206
+
+    Michael Angelo, works attributed to, i. 117, 119, 332, 334, 389;
+      ii. 58, 60, 163, 174, 210, 218;
+      the Moses of, ii. 58;
+      design of, for St. Peter's, ii. 244;
+      statue by, in St. Peter's, ii. 256;
+      frescoes by, ii. 285;
+      his most perfect work, ii. 388
+
+    Milliarium Aureum, i. 173
+
+    Mills of Belisarius, ii. 366
+
+    Miserere, of Passion Week, ii. 296
+
+    Monasteries--
+      of S. Andrew, i. 321
+      of S. Anna. ii. 387
+      of the Chiesa Nuova, ii. 167
+      of S. Croce, ii. 131
+      of S. Eusebio, ii. 77
+      of the Passionists, i. 329
+
+    Mons Sacer, ii. 32
+
+    Monte Caprino, i. 117
+      Cavallo, i. 446
+      Citorio, i. 78
+      Giordano, ii. 166
+      del Grano, ii. 124
+      Mario, ii. 427
+      di Pietà, ii. 181
+      Rotondo, ii. 34
+      Sacro (Mons Sacer), ii. 32
+      Testaccio, ii. 397
+
+    Morrà, national game of the Trasteverini, ii. 367
+
+    Mosaics--
+      in S. Cecilia, ii. 374
+      in S. Cesareo, i. 383
+      in S. Antonio, ii. 79
+      in S. Croce, ii. 130
+      in S. Clemente, i. 345
+      at S. Tommaso in Formis, i. 351
+      of SS. Cosmo and Damian, i. 192
+      in Crypt of St. Peter's, ii. 268, 273
+      in S. Francesca Romana, i. 198
+      in Jewish Catacomb, i. 407
+      in the Lateran, ii. 100
+      in S. Lorenzo, ii. 138
+      in Sta. Maria in Cosmedin, i. 233
+        in Domenica, i. 333
+        Maggiore, ii. 82, 83
+        Scala Coeli, ii. 400
+        in Trastevere, ii. 383, 385--387
+      in S. Martino al Monte, ii. 64
+      in the Navicella, i. 333
+      in SS. Nereo ed Achilleo, i. 380
+      in the Oratory of S. Venanzio, ii. 97
+      in the Orto del Paradiso, ii. 67
+      in S. Paolo fuori le Mura, ii. 405, 406
+      Papal Manufactory of, ii. 359
+      in St. Peter's, ii. 252, 256, 259, 260, 261, 263, 264
+      in S. Pietro in Vincoli, ii. 57
+      in S. Prassede, ii. 70
+      in S. Pudenziana, i. 471
+      in the Quirinal Palace, i. 454
+      in S. Sabina, i. 357
+      in the Sala Rotondo, ii. 318
+      in the Sancta Sanctorum, ii. 113
+      in S. Stefano Rotondo, i. 339
+      in S. Teodoro, i. 223
+      found at Torre Nuova, ii. 414
+      in the Triclinium of the Palace of Lateran, ii. 109
+
+    Muro-Torto, i. 46
+
+    Museo, Chiaramonti, ii. 305
+      Pio-Clementino, ii. 305
+
+    Museums--
+      Capitoline, i. 122
+      Christian, of the Lateran, ii. 117
+      Vatican, of Christian Antiquities, ii. 324
+      Egyptian, ii 331
+      Etruscan, ii. 327--331
+      Kircherian, i. 88
+
+
+    N.
+
+    Navicella, the, i. 330;
+      Mosaic of, ii. 246
+
+    Navona, Piazza, ii. 196
+
+    Naumachia, remnant of the pleasures of the, ii. 198
+
+    Neri, S. Filippo, i. 418;
+      chapel of, ii. 166;
+      library founded by, ii. 167;
+      foundation of Oratorians by, ii. 169;
+      hospital founded by, ii. 181;
+      portrait of, ii. 181;
+      resuscitation to life by, ii. 187
+
+    Nero, Grave of, i. 38;
+      Statue of, i. 200;
+      Palace of, i. 311;
+      Aqueduct of, i. 330;
+      Martyrs under, i. 335;
+      Tower of, i. 459;
+      death of, ii. 25;
+      Golden House of, ii. 52;
+      site of Baths of, ii. 202
+
+    Notte Vaticane, ii. 336
+
+    Nymphæum--
+      of S. Urbano, i. 413
+      of the Val d' Inferno, ii. 430
+
+
+    O.
+
+    Obelisk--
+      of the Esquiline, ii. 93
+      of the Villa Mattel, i. 332
+      of the Lateran, ii. 95
+      of the Minerva, ii. 211
+      of the Monte Cavallo, i. 446
+        Citorio, i. 78
+      of the Pantheon, ii. 211
+      of St. Peter's, ii. 238, 239
+      of the Piazza Navona, ii. 196
+      of the Pincio, i. 46
+      of the Piazza del Popolo, i. 37
+      of the Trinità de' Monti, i. 51
+
+    Observatory of the Collegio Romano, i. 88
+
+    Orti Farnesiani, i. 276
+
+    Osa, the river, ii. 135
+
+    Osteria delle Frattocchie, i. 429
+
+    Ostia, ii. 409
+
+    Ostian Gate, ii. 394, 399
+
+    Overbeck, Studio of, ii. 45
+
+
+    P.
+
+    Palaces--
+      Albani, i. 443
+      Aldobrandini, i. 461
+      Altemps, ii. 160
+      Altieri, i. 107
+      of Augustus, i. 280
+      Barberini, i. 436
+      Bernini, i. 73
+      Borghese, i. 65;
+        gallery in, 66
+      Braschi, ii. 188
+      Buonaparte, i. 103
+      of the Cæsars, i. 250
+      Caëtani, i. 268
+      Caffarelli, i. 142
+      of Caligula, i. 292
+      of the Cancelleria, ii. 177
+      Cardelli, ii. 155
+      Cenci, i. 259
+      Chigi, i. 76
+      Colonna, gallery in, i. 98
+      of the Conservators, i. 135
+      of the Consulta, i. 448
+      Corsini, ii. 439
+      Costaguti, i. 267
+      of Domitian, i. 312
+      Doria, i. 93;
+        gallery in, 94
+      Falconieri, ii. 175
+      Farnese, ii. 174
+      Farnesina, ii. 388
+      Gabrielli, ii. 166
+      Galitzin, ii. 155
+      Giraud, ii. 236
+      Giustiniani, ii. 202
+      del Governo Vecchio, ii. 165
+      Lancellotti, ii. 197
+      of the Lateran, ancient, ii. 108
+      of the Lateran, modern, ii. 114
+      Linote, ii. 178
+      Madama, ii. 198
+      Margana, i. 270
+      Massimo alle Colonne, ii. 186
+      Mattei, i. 268
+      Moroni, ii. 387
+      Muto-Savorelli, i. 103
+      of Nero, i. 311
+      Odescalchi, i. 98
+      Orsini, ii. 360
+      Pamfili, ii. 196
+      Parisani, i. 76
+      Patrizi, ii. 202
+      Pio, ii. 184
+      Poli, i. 81
+      Ponziani, ii. 369
+      of Pope Honorius III., i. 361
+      of the Quirinal, i. 449
+      della Regina di Polonia, i. 54
+      Rospigliosi, i. 434, 456
+      Ruspoli, i. 72
+      Sacchetti, ii. 176
+      Salviati, ii. 439
+      Santa Croce, ii. 182
+      Sciarra, i. 82
+      of the Senator, i. 120
+      Spada alla Regola, ii. 178
+      di Spagna, i. 57
+      of Tiberius, i. 291
+      Torlonia, i. 104
+      del Santo Uffizio, ii. 278
+      Valentini, i. 98
+      Venezia, i. 105
+      of Vespasian, i. 281
+      Vidoni, ii. 185
+
+    Palatine, the, i. 273--315
+
+    Pantheon, the, ii. 204--211
+
+    Parco di San Gregorio, i. 319
+
+    Pasquinades, ii. 188--192
+
+    Pasquino, ii. 188
+
+    Paul, St., house in which he lodged, i. 89;
+      trial of, in Palace of the Cæsars, i. 284;
+      prison of, i. 309;
+      skull of, ii. 100;
+      shrine of, ii. 273;
+      parting of, with St. Peter, ii. 398;
+      martyrdom of, ii. 399, 402;
+      pillar to which he was bound, ii. 401;
+      festivals of, ii. 408
+
+    Perretti, Cardinal, his residence at the Villa Negroni, ii. 35
+
+    Peruzzi, Baldassare, works of, ii. 160, 165, 178, 186;
+      tomb of, in the Pantheon, ii. 209;
+      design of, for St. Peter's, ii. 244;
+      frescoes by, ii. 448
+
+    Pescheria, the, i. 249
+
+    Peter, St., dungeon occupied by, in Mamertine Prisons, i. 153;
+      legend relating to, concerning Simon Magus, i. 197;
+      tradition of, i. 379;
+      legend relating to persecution of, ii. 389;
+      burial-place of, ii. 274;
+      preservation of his chains, ii. 54, 61;
+      relics of, ii. 61, 100;
+      statues of, ii. 226, 254;
+      episcopal chair of, ii. 261;
+      shrine and sarcophagus of, ii. 273;
+      parting of, with St. Paul, ii. 398;
+      crucifixion of, ii. 451
+
+    Photographers, i. 29
+
+    Pianta Capitolina, i. 123
+
+    Piazzas--
+      Barberini, i. 436
+      Bocca della Verità, ii. 392
+      Borghese, i. 66
+      del Campidoglio, i. 119
+      di Campitelli, i. 269
+      Campo di Fiore, ii. 176
+      Capo di Ferro, ii. 178
+      of the Cappuccini, ii. 7
+      Colonna, i. 76
+      di S. Eustachio, ii. 202
+      del Gesù, i. 108
+      di S. Giovanni, ii. 95
+      della Guidecca, i. 259
+      of S. Maria Maggiore, ii. 80
+        in Monti, i. 464
+      della Minerva, ii. 211
+      Montanara, i. 242
+      of the Monte Cavallo, i. 446
+      Monte Citorio, i. 78
+      of the Navicella, i. 330
+      Navona, ii. 196
+      del Orologio, ii. 166
+      of St. Peter's, ii. 238--240
+      Pia, ii. 236
+      del Popolo, i. 36
+      della Rotonda, ii. 211
+      Rusticucci, ii. 238
+      Scossa Cavalli, ii. 236
+      della Scuola, i. 256
+      di Spagna, i. 56, 58
+      delle Tartarughe, i. 267
+      del Tritone, i. 436
+
+    Picture Galleries--
+      Palazzo Barberini, i. 439
+      Borghese, i. 66
+      Capitoline, i. 140
+      Palace of the Lateran, ii. 118
+        Quirinal, i. 455
+      Palazzo Colonna, i. 99
+        Corsini, ii. 442
+        Doria, i. 94
+        Mattei, i. 268
+        Sciarra, i. 82
+      the Vatican, ii. 347, 359
+
+    Pierleoni, fortress of the, i. 245
+
+    Pietà, in S. Croce, ii. 130
+      in the Lateran, ii. 103, 104
+      in S. Maria dell' Anima, ii. 163
+      of S. Peter's, ii. 256
+
+    Pietra di Paragone, ii. 278
+
+    Pig-Market, Roman mode of killing pigs, ii. 417
+
+    Pigna, in garden of the Vatican, ii. 334
+
+    Pincio, the, i. 43, 44
+
+    Piscina Publica, i. 383
+
+    Plautilla, legend of, ii. 398, 399
+
+    Pollajuolo, Antonio, tomb of, ii. 56
+
+    Pompey, statue of, ii. 179;
+      theatre of, ii. 184
+
+    Ponte--
+      S. Angelo, ii. 226
+      S. Bartolomeo, ii. 366
+      Molle, ii. 421
+      Nomentana, ii. 31
+      di Nono, ii. 134
+      Quattro Capi, ii. 360
+      Rotto, i. 237; ii. 369
+      Salara, ii. 19
+      Sisto, ii. 390
+      Pontecello, stream of, i. 429
+
+    Popolo, Piazza del, i. 36
+      Prati del, ii. 397
+      Porta del, i. 37; ii. 422
+      Church of S. Maria del, i. 39
+
+    Porta, Giacomo della, works of, ii. 174, 244, 251, 400, 401
+      Guglielmo della, ii. 262
+
+    Porta--
+      Angelica, ii. 430
+      Asinaria, ii. 107
+      Capena, i. 373
+      Carmentalis, i. 239
+      Cavalleggieri, ii. 280
+      Collina, ii. 16
+      Furba, ii. 124
+      S. Giovanni, ii. 107
+      Latina, i. 384
+      S. Lorenzo, ii. 135
+      Maggiore, ii. 132
+      Mugonia, i. 274
+      Nomentana, ii. 24
+      Ostiensis, ii. 394
+      Palatii, i. 279
+      S. Pancrazio, ii. 452
+      S. Paolo, ii. 393
+      Pia, ii. 24
+      Pinciana, ii. 16
+      del Popolo, ii. 410
+      Portese, ii. 377
+      Romana, i. 274
+      Salara, ii. 16
+      Salutaria, i. 435
+      Santa, ii. 82;
+        ceremony of the destruction of the wall of, 248
+      S. Sebastiano, i. 387
+      Settimiana, ii. 388, 448
+      Sto. Spirito, ii. 434
+      Trigemina, ii. 392
+
+    Porticos--
+      of Baths of Constantine, i. 458
+      Leonino, ii. 102
+      of Livia, i. 198
+      of Octavia, i. 247
+      of Pallas Minerva, i. 165
+      of the Pantheon, ii. 206
+      of Temple of Mars, i. 388
+        of Quirinus, i. 435
+      of Theatre of Pompey, ii. 184
+
+    Poussin, Niccolas, i, 52;
+      house of, 54;
+      tomb of, 73
+
+    Prata Quinctia, i. 59
+
+    Presepio, origin of the, ii. 380
+
+    Pretorian Camp, remains of, ii. 34
+
+    Prima Porta, ii. 423
+
+    Prisons--
+      Carceri Nuove, ii. 176
+      in Castle of St. Angelo, ii. 234
+      the Island in the Tiber used as, in imperial times, ii. 362
+      Mamertine, i. 153
+      for Women, ii. 42
+
+    Propaganda, the, i. 59
+
+    Protestant Cemetery, ii. 395
+      Churches, ii. 410
+
+    Protomoteca, i. 136
+
+    Pseudo-Aventine, i. 368
+
+    Pyramid, of Caius Cestius, ii. 394
+      of Scipio Africanus, ii. 236
+
+
+    Q.
+
+    Quattro Fontane, ii. 34, 45
+
+    Quirinal, i. 433--455
+
+
+    R.
+
+    Railway Station, ii. 35
+
+    Raphael, painter, sculptor, and architect, i. 41;
+      Works of, 67, 83, 96, 167, 305, 439; ii. 102, 158, 164, 185;
+      tomb of, in the Pantheon, 209;
+      house of, 225;
+      design of, for St. Peter's, 244;
+      cartoons of, 321;
+      Loggie of, 337;
+      frescoes by, 338, 340--343, 345, 446, 448;
+      pictures by, 348, 350, 356;
+      his last work, ii. 351;
+      Villa of, 416
+
+    Regia, site of the, i. 178
+
+    Relics--
+      of S. Andrew, ii. 253, 421, 456
+      Arm of St. Thomas à Becket, ii. 172
+      Brains of St. Thomas à Becket, ii. 92
+      Body of St. Bartholomew, ii. 364
+      ait S.S. Cosmo and Damian, i. 192
+      Chains of St. Peter, ii. 61
+      Chair of St. Peter, ii. 261
+      Column to which our Saviour is reputed to have been bound, ii. 68
+      of S. Carlo Borromeo, ii. 69; ii. 167
+      of S. Dominic, i. 360
+      of S. Francesca Romana, i. 270
+      of St. Francis, ii. 379
+      of Ignatius Loyola, i. 107
+      list of, in Lateran, ii. 102
+      in S. Martino al Monte, ii. 64
+      of St Peter's, exhibition of, ii. 253, 254
+      in Sancta Sanctorum, ii. 112, 113
+      Sancta Culla, ii. 91
+      Santa Scala, ii. 110
+      of Tasso, ii. 437
+      Title of the True Cross, exhibition of, ii. 129
+      in Treasury of St. Peter's, ii. 276
+
+    Remus, temple of, i. 191
+
+    Ripetta, the, i. 37;
+      Quay of the, 59
+
+    Ripresa dei Barberi, i. 105
+
+    Roman Pearls, i. 29
+
+    Romana, Sta. Francesca, favourite saint of the Romans, i. 148; ii. 136;
+      her death, i. 195; ii. 370;
+      miracle attributed to, ii. 378;
+      vineyard of, ii. 398
+
+    Rome, statue so called, ii. 35
+
+    Romulus and Remus, legend of, i. 288;
+      walls of, 305;
+      connection with Aventine, 349;
+      temple to, 434
+
+    Rosa, Salvator, i. 94, 95;
+      monument of, ii. 40
+
+    Rospigliosi, Palazzo, i. 456
+
+    Rupe Tarpeia, i. 142
+
+
+    S.
+
+    Sacchi, Andrea, grave of, ii. 105
+
+    Sacer, Mons, ii. 32
+
+    Sala degli Animali, ii. 313
+      della Biga, ii. 319
+      di Constantino, ii. 340
+      a Croce Greca, ii. 319
+      Ducale, ii. 298
+      delle Muse, ii. 317
+
+    Sala delle Regia, ii. 285
+      Rotonda, ii. 318
+
+    Salita di S. Onofrio, ii. 434
+
+    Sancta Sanctorum, in Palace of Lateran, ii. 111
+
+    Sangallo, Antonio di, works of, ii. 174, 244, 285
+
+    Sansovino, Andrea, statue by, ii. 158
+
+    Santa Scala, ii. 110
+
+    Scannabecchi, stream of, ii. 425
+
+    Schools--
+      Castigliana, i. 256
+      Catilana, i. 256
+      for Music, in the Middle Ages, ii. 121
+      Scuola Nuova, i. 256
+      Siciliana, i. 256
+      del Tempio, i. 256
+      Sciarra, Palazzo, i. 82
+
+    Scipios, Tomb of the, i. 385
+
+    Sculptors, studios of, i. 31
+
+    Sebastian, St., place of martyrdom of, i. 203;
+      fresco, relating to legend of, ii. 56;
+      statues of, i. 417; ii. 194
+
+    Seminario Romano, ii. 159
+
+    Septizonium of Severus, i. 312
+
+    Seven Hills of Rome, i. 298
+
+    Shops--
+      for Antiquities, i. 29
+      Arvotti's, the famous Roman-scarf shop, ii. 198
+      Bookbinder's, i. 30
+      Booksellers', i. 29
+      for Bronzes, i. 29
+      for Cameos, i. 29
+      for Carpets and small house articles, i. 30
+      for Drawing materials, i. 29
+      English Grocer's, i. 30
+      Engraver's, i. 30
+      for Engravings, i. 29
+      German Baker's, i. 30
+      for Gloves, i. 30
+      Italian Grocer and Wine-Merchant's, i. 30
+      Jewellers', i. 29
+      for Lace, well-known, i. 267
+      for Ladies' dresses, i. 30
+      for Mosaics, i. 29
+      for Oil, Candles, and Wood, &c., i. 30
+      for Roman Ribbons and Shawls, i. 30
+      for Roman Pearls, i. 29
+      Shoemakers', i. 30
+      Tailors', i. 30
+
+    St. Peter's, first sight of, i. 17;
+      view of, from the Pincio, 44;
+      distant view of, from Villa Medici, 51;
+      "View of, through the Keyhole," 365;
+      the approach to, ii. 238;
+      early history of buildings on the site of, 242;
+      the building of, 244;
+      expenses of building, 245;
+      façade, 245;
+      vestibule, 246;
+      entrance of the Cathedral, 249;
+      nave, 251;
+      dimensions of building, 251;
+      cupola, 252;
+      Baldacchino, 252;
+      relics, 253;
+      statues, 254, 255;
+      chapels, 256--258;
+      monuments, 259--266;
+      tribune, 261;
+      chair of, 261;
+      confessionals, 267;
+      crypt of, 267--274;
+      sarcophagi, 270--274;
+      dome of, 275;
+      sacristy of, 275;
+      treasury of, 276;
+      archives of, 277;
+      best view of, 454
+
+    Stanze, d'Eliodoro, ii. 341
+      of the Incendio del Borgo, ii. 345
+      della Segnatura, ii. 342
+
+    Statues of--
+      Abbate Luigi, ii. 186
+      S. Agnese, ii. 194
+      Agrippa, ii. 206
+      S. Anastasia, i. 224
+      Antinous, the, ii. 308
+      Aristotle, ii. 180
+      Augustus, ii. 206, 424
+      Barberini Palace, the, i. 438
+      Benedict XIII., i. 303
+      S. Bruno, ii. 40
+      Calumny, i. 75
+      Capitoline Gallery, the, 123--135
+      Castor and Pollux, i. 118
+      S. Cecilia, ii. 373
+      Chapel of the Sacrament, the, ii. 89
+      Christian Museum, the, ii. 117
+      Cloelia, i. 199
+      Collection of, in Palazzo Sacchetti, ii. 176
+      Colossal, Minerva, ii. 35
+      Constantine, ii. 106
+      Corsini Chapel, the, ii. 103
+      Discobolus, the, ii. 186
+      Domitian, i. 179
+      Drusus, i. 387
+      Egyptian Museum, the, ii. 332
+      S. Gregorio, i. 326
+      Gregory XVI., ii. 405
+      Hall of the Senators, the, i. 121
+      Henry IV., ii. 99
+      S. Jerome, i. 60
+      S. John the Baptist, i. 344
+      Julius II., on tomb, ii. 59, 60
+      Juno, i. 112
+      Jupiter, i. 112
+      Justice, i. 378
+      S. Lorenzo, ii. 137
+      Marcus Aurelius, i. 119; ii. 186
+      Mars, ii. 14
+      S. Martina, i. 188
+      Mausoleum of Augustus, the, i. 447
+      Minerva, i. 112
+      Moses, ii. 42, 59
+      Nile, the, i. 184
+      Orpheus, ii. 51
+      Pasquino, ii. 188
+      Peter and Paul, ii. 130
+      S. Peter's, balustrade and steps of, ii. 245, 246;
+        nave, 254;
+        crypt of, 268, 273
+      Philip IV. of Spain, ii. 82
+      Pincio, the, i. 43
+      Pompey, at the foot of which Cæsar fell, ii. 179
+      Porta Pia, ii. 24
+      Raphael, by, i. 41
+      S. Sebastian, ii. 194, 221
+      S. Silvia, i. 325
+      Torso Belvidere, ii. 306
+      Trajan, i. 161
+      Vatican, the, ii. 300--322
+      Vatican Library, the, ii. 324
+      Villa Albani, the, ii. 18
+      Villa Borghese, the, ii. 414--416
+      Villa Pamfili Doria, the, ii. 454
+
+    Stone, on which Abraham was about to offer Isaac, ii. 237
+      Sacred, legend of, i. 294
+
+    Streets--see Via
+
+    Studios--
+      Artists', i. 30
+      of Overbeck, ii. 45
+      Sculptors', i. 31
+
+    Suburra, the, ii. 49
+
+    Summa Via Nova, i. 277
+
+    Sun, Aurelian's Temple of the, i. 436, 458
+
+    Sylvester, ancient Chair and Mitre of, ii. 64
+
+
+    T.
+
+    Tarquin, site of camp of, ii. 378
+
+    Tasso, Monument of, ii. 436;
+      death of, 437;
+      remains of oak planted by, 438;
+      annual commemoration of, at the Accademia, 439
+
+    Teatino, Don Gaëtano di, founder of the Order of the Theatins, ii. 388
+
+    Tempesta, i. 334, 457; ii. 226, 337
+
+    Tempietto, on the Pincio, i. 54;
+      on site of St. Peter's crucifixion, ii. 451
+
+    Temples--
+      of Æsculapius, ii. 364
+        Antoninus and Faustina, i. 182
+        Apollo, i. 296; ii. 134
+        the Aventine, i. 351--353
+        Bacchus, i. 412
+        Castor and Pollux, i. 175
+        Ceres, i. 227
+        Cybele, i. 294
+        Fides, i. 114
+        Fortuna Virilis, i. 235
+          Muliebris, ii. 125
+        Fortune, i. 228
+        Health and Fever, i. 435
+        Honour and Virtue, i. 115
+      on the Island, ii. 363
+      of Janus Quirinus, i. 180
+        Julius Cæesar, i. 183
+        Juno, i. 247
+          Moneta, i. 115
+          Sospita, i. 298
+        Jupiter Capitolinus, i. 111--114
+          Feretrius, i. 115
+          Stator, i. 247, 278
+          Tonans, i. 115
+        Liber, i. 227
+        Libera, i. 227
+        Mars, i. 114
+          Ultor, i. 163, 164
+      in Memory of the French who fell in the siege of Rome, ii. 455
+      of Minerva, i. 298
+        Moonlight, i. 298
+        Neptune, i. 79
+        Peace, i. 184
+        Piety, i. 241
+        Remus, i. 191
+        Romulus, i. 434
+        Saturn, i. 172
+        the Sun, i. 117
+        Tellus, ii. 48
+        Venus Erycina, i. 114
+        Venus and Rome, last Pagan, in use, i. 199
+        Vespasian, i. 171
+        Vesta, i. 176, 235
+        Victory, i. 294
+    Tenerani, works of, ii. 221, 264, 407
+
+    Termini, the, ii. 34
+
+    Terraces of--
+      the Pincio, i. 43
+      the Villa Albani, view from. ii. 17
+        Doria, ii. 454
+        Medici, i. 49
+
+    Theatres of--
+      Apollo, the, ii. 224 (modern)
+      Balbus, ii. 153
+      Marcellus, i. 244
+      Palace of the Cæsars, in, i. 288
+      Pompey, ii. 153, 184
+
+    Thorwaldsen, works of, i. 188, 455; ii. 210, 264, 300
+
+    Tiber, inundations of the, i. 222;
+      Island in the, ii. 361;
+      picturesque views on the banks of, 421
+
+    Tiberius, Arch of, i. 173;
+      Palace of, 291
+
+    Tigellum Sororis, ii. 49
+
+    Titus, Arch of, i. 200;
+      Baths of, ii. 52
+
+    Tombs--
+      of Adam of Hertford, Bishop of London, ii. 372
+      in Ara-Coeli, i. 147, 148
+      of the Baker Eurysaces, ii. 132
+        Bastari, ii. 385
+        Bernardino Capella, i. 339
+        Bibulus, i. 105
+        the Cæcilii, i. 395
+        Caius Cestius, ii. 394
+        Camillo Borghese, ii. 87
+      in the Campus Esquilinus, ii. 36
+      of Carlo Maratta, ii. 40
+        Cardinal Adimari, i. 196
+          d'Alençon, ii, 385
+          Barberini, ii. 9
+          Fortiguerra, ii. 372
+          Gonsalvi, i. 87; ii. 90
+          Guido di Balneo, i. 364
+          Mai, i. 225
+          Pacca, i. 269
+          Rovarella, i. 344
+          Vulcani, i. 196
+          Zurla, i. 323
+      Casale Rotondo, i. 428
+      of Cecilia Metella, i. 422
+      in Chapel of the Rosary, i. 359
+      of Clement VII., ii. 219
+          IX., ii. 84
+          XIV., i. 101
+        S. Constantia, ii. 28
+        S. Cosmo and Damian, i. 191
+      destruction of, in old Basilica of St. Peter's, ii. 257--266
+      of Daniel O'Connell, i. 462
+      Doric, relic of republican times, i. 105
+      of Emmanuel IV., i. 444
+        Francesca di Ponziani, i. 195
+        eminent Frenchmen, ii. 200
+        Geta, i. 388
+        Gibson, the sculptor, ii. 397
+        Gregory XI., i. 196
+          XIV., i. 85
+        S. Helena, ii. 133
+        the Historian of the popes, ii. 92
+        the Horatii and Curiatii, i. 427
+        Imperia, i. 323
+        John Lascaris, i. 463
+        Julius II., ii. 59
+        Knights of Malta, i. 365
+        Lanfranco, ii. 385
+        Leo X., ii. 218
+      in S. Maria del Popolo, i. 39--42
+      of Martha Swinburne, ii. 171
+        Sta. Martina, i. 188
+        Munoz de Zamora, i. 358
+        Nero, i. 38
+        Nicholas IV., ii. 84
+        Nicholas Poussin, i. 73
+        Painters, in the Pantheon, ii. 209, 210
+        Paul IV., ii. 215
+        Pius V., ii. 89
+        Pompey, i. 429
+        Pope St. Cornelius, i. 399
+          Melchiades, i. 398
+      in S. Prassede, ii. 69
+      of Prince Altieri, i. 269
+        Princess Colonna, ii. 213
+      Ruins of, i. 426, 428, 429
+      of Salvator Rosa, ii. 40
+        the Scipios, i. 385
+        Sixtus V., ii. 89
+        Bishop Spinelli, i. 365
+        the Stuarts, ii. 266
+        Sylla, i. 37
+      Temple of Divus Rediculus, i. 416
+      of Torquemada, ii. 213
+
+    Torre--
+      degli Anicii, ii. 362
+      di Babele, i. 460
+      dei Conti, ii. 48, 54
+      del Grillo, i. 460
+      Marancia, i. 408
+      Mellina, ii. 193
+      Mezza Strada, mediæval fortress, i. 427
+      delle Milizie, i. 460
+      Nomentana, ii. 32
+      di Nona, ii. 223
+      Nuova, ii. 133, 414
+      Pernice, ii. 133
+      Pignatarra, ii. 133
+      di Quinto, ii. 423
+      Sanguinea, ii. 160
+      dei Schiavi, ii. 133
+      della Scimia (Hilda's Tower), ii. 156
+      di Selce, i. 429
+      Tre Teste, ii. 134
+
+    Torretta del Palatino, view from, i. 298
+
+    Towers--
+      Capitol, of the, i. 121
+      Frangipani, of the, ii. 62
+      Mecænas, of, ii. 65
+      Mediæval, of S. Lucia in Selce, ii. 65
+
+    Trastevere, the, i. 237;
+      its present condition, characteristics of its inhabitants,
+      its national games, ii. 367
+
+    Trattorie, resort of lower orders to, ii. 422
+
+    Travellers, hurried, scheme for, in visiting Rome, i. 32;
+      first lesson in Roman Geography for, 36;
+      interesting excursions for, ii. 426;
+      objects of interest for Irish, 450
+
+    Tre Fontane, the, ii. 399
+
+    Trevi, Fountain of, i. 79
+
+    Trophies of Marius, ii. 74
+
+    Turrita, Jacopo da, mosaics by, ii. 83
+
+
+    U.
+
+    Udine, Giovanni da, ii. 300, 324, 426, 448
+
+    Umbilicus Romæ, i. 173
+
+    University of the Sapienza, ii. 202
+
+
+    V.
+
+    Vaga, Pierino del, tomb of, ii. 209
+
+    Val d'Inferno, ii. 430
+
+    Valleys--
+      of the Almo, i. 388
+      Caffarelle, i. 390
+      between the Palatine and Capitoline Hills, i. 222
+
+    Valley between Palatine and Aventine, i. 225, 365
+
+    Vallis Quirinalis, site of, i. 464
+
+    Vatican, the, i. 467;
+      history of the quarter, and of the foundation of the Palace,
+      ii. 282--284;
+      Sala Regia, 285;
+      Sistine Chapel, paintings of, 286--295;
+      residence of the pope in, 298;
+      Museum of Statues, 300;
+      Braccio-Nuovo, 300;
+      Cabinets of Sculpture, 308--311;
+      Gabinetto delle Maschere, 316;
+      Library of the, 271, 322;
+      portraits of librarians, 323;
+      Appartamenti Borgia, 324;
+      inner Garden of the, 333;
+      larger Garden, 335;
+      Golden age of the, 336;
+      Loggie of Raphael, 337;
+      Stanze, frescoes in the, 340--345;
+      Picture Gallery, 347;
+      Wine of the, 430
+
+    Velabrum, the, i. 222;
+      derivation of name, 223
+
+    Velia, the, i. 277
+
+    Vespasian, Palace of, i. 281;
+      favourite residence of, ii. 12
+
+    Vesta, Temple of, i. 235;
+      Shrine of, 298
+
+    Via--
+      S. Agostino, ii. 160
+      Alessandrina, i. 163
+      dell' Anima, ii. 193
+      S. Antonio dei Portoguesi, ii. 156
+      Appia, i. 372
+      Appia Nuova, i. 412, 429; ii. 107
+      Ardeatina, i. 389
+      Babuino, i. 54
+      di Banchi, ii. 224
+      S. Basilio, ii. 12
+      de' Baullari, ii. 178
+      del Borgo Nuovo, ii. 236
+      Borgo Sto. Spirito, ii. 237
+      delle Botteghe Oscure, i. 268
+      Calabraga, ii. 170
+      della Caravita, i. 85
+      Cassia, ii. 426
+      S. Claudio, i. 76
+      Clivus Capitolinus, i. 170, 172
+      del Colosseo, ii. 47
+      Condotti, i. 65
+      della Consolazione, i. 174
+      delle Convertite, i. 74
+      dei Coronari, ii. 223
+      del Corso, i. 36, 60
+      della Croce Bianca, i. 165
+      dei Crociferi, i. 464
+      Crucis, ii. 449
+      della Ferratelia, i. 382
+      dei Fienili (Vicus Tuscus), i. 176, 221
+      Flaminia, great Northern road of Italy, ii. 423
+      delle Fornaci, ii. 449
+      S. Giovanni, ii. 94
+      Decollato, i. 239
+      de' Fiorentini, ii. 225
+      Giulia, ii. 175
+      del Governo Vecchio, ii. 165
+      Gregoriana, i. 54
+      S. Gregorio, i. 375
+      Immerulana, ii. 122
+      Latina, ii. 124
+      Longarina, ii. 368
+      S. Lucia in Selci, ii. 65
+      Lungara, ii. 434
+      Lungaretta, ii. 379, 382
+      de Macao, ii. 34
+      Maganaopoli, i. 461
+      Maggiore, ii. 72
+      Margutta, i. 54
+      della Marmorata, ii. 392
+      Mazzarini, i. 461
+      de Mercede, i. 75
+      Monserrato, ii. 170
+      del Monte Tarpeio, i. 272
+      Morticelli, ii. 379
+      S. Niccolo in Tolentino, ii. 12
+      Nova, i. 307
+      Ostiensis, ii. 409
+      Pane e Perna, i. 466
+      S. Pantaleone, ii. 186
+      in Parione, ii. 165
+      della Pedacchia, i. 117
+      del Piè di Marmo, ii. 222
+      de' Pontefici, i. 61
+      della Porta Pia, ii. 43
+      delle Quattro Fontane, i. 474
+      del Quirinale, i. 444
+      Ripetta, i. 37
+      Sta. Sabina, i. 355
+      Sacra, i. 205
+      della Salita del Grillo, i. 165
+      Savelli, ii. 360
+      della Scala, ii. 388
+      della Scrofa, ii. 154
+      S. Sebastiano, i. 375
+      della Sediola, ii. 197, 202
+      dei Serpenti, i. 463
+      Sistina, i. 54
+      di San Sisto Vecchio, i. 375
+      Sterrata, i. 443
+      Tor de' Specchi, i. 270
+      Tordinona, ii. 223
+      Triumphalis, i. 206
+      Urbana, i. 468
+      della Vale, ii. 185
+      dei Vascellari, ii. 369
+      delle Vergine, i. 103
+      S. Vitale, i. 435, 466
+      della Vite, i. 74
+      Vittoria, i. 64
+
+    Vicus, Corneliorum, i. 436;
+      Cyprius, ii. 49
+
+    Vigna, Codini, i. 386
+      dei Gesuiti, i. 368
+      Marancia, i. 389
+
+    Vignola, works of, ii. 418, 421
+
+    Villas--
+      Albani, ii. 17
+      Altieri, ii. 132
+      Borghese, ii. 411
+      of Claude Lorraine, ii. 419
+      of Commodus, i. 427
+      Doria, ii. 454
+      Esmeade, ii. 417
+      Farnesina, ii. 446
+      of the Gordians, ii. 133
+      Lante, ii. 452
+      Lezzani, ii. 25
+      List of most important, i. 32
+      of Livia, ii. 423
+      of Lucius Verus, ii. 135
+      Ludovisi, ii. 13
+      Madama, ii. 426
+      Massimo Arsoli, ii. 122
+        Negroni, ii. 35
+        Rignano, ii. 12
+      Mattei, i. 332
+      Medici, i. 49
+      Mellini, ii. 427
+      Mills, i. 304, 311
+      Negroni, i. 473
+      Olgiati, once of Raphael, ii. 416
+      Palombara, ii. 74
+      Pamfili Doria, ii. 454
+      of Papa Giulio, ii. 418
+      Patrizi, ii. 25
+      of the Servilii, ii. 124
+      Spada, ii. 20
+      Torlonia, ii. 26
+      Triopio, i. 414
+      Wolkonski, ii. 123
+
+    Viminal Hill, i. 433, 466
+
+    Vinci, Leonardo da, remarkable works of, i. 83; ii. 437
+
+    Virgin, one of the earliest representations of the, ii. 21;
+      first church dedicated to, ii. 382
+
+    Volterra, Daniele da, the masterpiece of, i. 52
+
+    Vulcanal, site of the, i. 171
+
+
+    W.
+
+    Walls--
+      Aurelian, i. 385
+      of Romulus, i. 305
+        Servius Tullius, 368
+
+    Wine of the Vatican, ii. 430
+
+
+    Z.
+
+    Zucchero, T., tomb of, ii. 210
+
+
+JOHN CHILDS AND SON, PRINTERS.
+
+By the same Author.
+
+
+I.
+
+DAYS NEAR ROME.
+
+With numerous Illustrations. Two Vols., Crown 8vo.
+
+
+II.
+
+WANDERINGS IN SPAIN.
+
+With Illustrations. Third Edition. Crown 8vo., 10s. 6d.
+
+     "We recollect no book that so vividly recalls the country to those
+     who have visited it, and we should recommend intending tourists to
+     carry it with them as a companion of travel."--_Times._
+
+     "Mr Hare's book is admirable. We are sure no one will regret making
+     it the companion of a Spanish journey. It will bear reading
+     repeatedly when one is moving among the scenes it describes--no
+     small advantage when the travelling library is scanty."--_Saturday
+     Review._
+
+     "Here is the ideal book of travel in Spain; the book which exactly
+     anticipates the requirements of everybody who is fortunate enough
+     to be going to that enchanted land; the book which ably consoles
+     those who are not so happy, by supplying the imagination from the
+     daintiest and most delicious of its stores."--_Spectator._
+
+     "Since the publication of 'Castilian Days,' by the American
+     diplomat, Mr John Hay, no pleasanter or more readable sketches have
+     fallen under our notice."--_Athenæum._
+
+
+III.
+
+MEMORIALS OF A QUIET LIFE.
+
+WITH TWO STEEL PORTRAITS.
+
+Twelfth Edition. Two Vols., Crown 8vo., 21s.
+
+     "The name of Hare is one deservedly to be honoured; and in these
+     'Memorials,' which are as true and satisfactory a biography as it
+     is possible to write, the author places his readers in the heart of
+     the family, and allows them to see the hidden sources of life and
+     love by which it was nourished and sustained."--_Athenæum._
+
+     "One of those books which it is impossible to read without
+     pleasure. It conveys a sense of repose not unlike that which
+     everybody must have felt out of service time in quiet little
+     village churches. Its editor will receive the hearty thanks of
+     every cultivated reader for these profoundly interesting
+     'Memorials' of two brothers, whose names and labours their
+     universities and church have alike reason to cherish with affection
+     and remember with pride, who have smoothed the path of faith to so
+     many troubled wayfarers, strengthening the weary and confirming the
+     weak."--_Standard._
+
+     "The book is rich in insight and in contrast of character. It is
+     varied and full of episodes, which few can fail to read with
+     interest; and as exhibiting the sentiments and thoughts of a very
+     influential circle of minds during a quarter of a century, it may
+     be said to have a distinct historical value."--_Nonconformist._
+
+     "A charming book, simply and gracefully recording the events of a
+     simple and gracious life. Its connection with the beginning of a
+     great movement in the English Church will make it to the thoughtful
+     reader more profoundly suggestive than many biographies crowded and
+     bustling with incident. It is almost the first of a class of books
+     the Christian world just now greatly needs, as showing how the
+     spiritual life was maintained amid the shaking of religious
+     'opinions'; how the life of the soul deepened as the thoughts of
+     the mind broadened; and how, in their union, the two formed a
+     volume of larger and more thoroughly vitalised Christian idea than
+     the English people had witnessed for many days."--_Glasgow Herald._
+
+
+DALDY, ISBISTER & CO., 56, LUDGATE HILL.
+
+_Uniform with "Walks in Rome."_
+
+WALKS IN FLORENCE.
+
+By SUSAN AND JOANNA HORNER.
+
+With Illustrations. Second Edition.
+
+Two Vols., Crown 8vo., 21_s._
+
+
+_TIMES._
+
+"No one can read it without wishing to visit Florence, and no one ought
+to visit Florence without having read it."
+
+_BRITISH QUARTERLY REVIEW._
+
+"It will make one who has never seen the historic city of Dante as
+familiar with it as though he had spent years there. To visitors it will
+hereafter be almost a _sine qua non_ as a hand-*book."
+
+_GRAPHIC._
+
+"A pleasanter literary companion could scarcely be found. Teeming with
+the results of observation, reading, and a sympathetical critical taste,
+its value is beyond question."
+
+_SPECTATOR._
+
+"We have in these two volumes a valuable acquisition."
+
+_NONCONFORMIST._
+
+"The book will hereafter be a _sine qua non_ for English and American
+visitors to Florence, whose numbers, we are fain to think, it will also
+tend very considerably to increase."
+
+_GUARDIAN._
+
+"A work which, by the accuracy of its information, the exactness of its
+detail, and the refined taste conspicuous in every page, proves its
+authors to be worthy inheritors of the honoured name they bear.
+Henceforward it will be as indispensable to every intelligent visitor to
+the 'City of Flowers' as Mr. Hare's is for 'The Eternal City.'"
+
+
+DALDY, ISBISTER & CO., 56, LUDGATE HILL.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The following typographical errors were corrected by the etext
+transcriber:
+
+Palmegiani, 66 Piazzi di Spagna=>Palmegiani, 66 Piazza di Spagna
+
+putatur is esse constitutus è marmore=>putatur is esse constitutus ex
+marmore
+
+with vaulted cielings and beautiful frescoes=>with vaulted ceilings and
+beautiful frescoes
+
+after his truimph for his=>after his triumph for his
+
+la mémoire du frère quil avait=>la mémoire du frère qu'il avait
+
+Madame de Stael=>Madame de Staël
+
+cet egard du pauvre Capucin=>cet égard du pauvre Capucin
+
+qui ne connâi de l'histoire des=>qui ne connâit de l'histoire des
+
+dépuis les thermes de=>depuis les thermes de
+
+Before he came to reside here he had been miracuously=>Before he came to
+reside here he had been miraculously
+
+St. Cyprian and Justinian=>SS. Cyprian and Justinian
+
+The interior of S. Sabba is in the basilica form=>The interior of St.
+Sabba is in the basilica form
+
+Roma Sotteranea=>Roma Sotterranea
+
+Il fut alors sollicite intérieurement=>Il fut alors sollicité
+intérieurement
+
+litanies autour de ce tableau."--Stendal.=>litanies autour de ce
+tableau."--Stendhal.
+
+se précipita dons ses bras,=>se précipita dans ses bras,
+
+good terrra-cotta mouldings=>good terra-cotta mouldings
+
+la visage sérieux=>le visage sérieux
+
+On y voit une femme endormie dont l'attidude=>On y voit une femme
+endormie dont l'attitude
+
+eyes in the rotonda of the Vatican=>eyes in the rotunda of the Vatican
+
+île a été entrainée par la violence=>île a été entraînée par la violence
+
+construire le palais Pamphili, a créer la villa Pamphili, et a
+pamphiliser=>construire le palais Pamphili, à créer la villa Pamphili,
+et à pamphiliser
+
+S. Pancrado, ii. 452=>S. Pancrazio, ii. 452
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Dionysius, xii. 8.
+
+[2] Livy, v. 13.
+
+[3] _Observe._--Here and elsewhere the arms of the Della Rovere--an
+oak-tree. Robur, an oak,--hence Rovere.
+
+[4] The beautiful 15th century altar of four virgin saints at S.
+Cosimato in Trastevere, is said to have been brought from this chapel.
+
+[5] All authorities agree that this beautiful portrait is not the work
+of Raphael. Kugler also denies that it is the likeness of Cæsar Borgia.
+
+[6] See Kugler, ii. 449.
+
+[7] Of the many Handbooks for Italy which have appeared, perhaps that of
+Du Pays (in one volume) is the most comprehensive, and--as far as its
+very condensed form allows--much the most interesting.
+
+[8] See Trollope's Life of Vittoria Colonna.
+
+[9] See "Un Figliuol' di Maria, ossia un Nuovo nostro Fratello," edited
+by the Baron di Bussiere. 1842.
+
+[10] It is more worth while to visit the Palazzo Chigi at Lariccia, near
+Albano, which retains its stamped leather hangings, and much of its old
+furniture. Here may be seen, assembled in one room, the portraits of the
+twelve nieces of Alexander VII., who were so enchanted when their uncle
+was made pope, that they all took the veil immediately to please him!
+
+[11] This Gallery has been closed since the Sardinian occupation.
+
+[12] So called from the Jesuit father of that name, who lived in the
+17th century.
+
+[13] Galat. ii. 7.
+
+[14] Philipp. iv. 22.
+
+[15] 2 Timothy i. 16
+
+[16] Philemon 23.
+
+[17] Philipp. ii. 22.
+
+[18] Kugler.
+
+[19] Varro, De Ling. Lat. v. 42.
+
+[20] Smith's Roman Mythology.
+
+[21] Vitruvius, iv. 7, 1.
+
+[22] Pliny, xxxv. 12.
+
+[23] Pliny, vii. 39.
+
+[24] Livy, vii. 3.
+
+[25] Pliny, xxxiii. 18.
+
+[26] Pliny, xxxvi. 5.
+
+[27] Tacitus, Hist. iii. 74.
+
+[28] Tacitus, Hist. iv. 53.
+
+[29] Zosimus, lib. v. c. 38.
+
+[30] Valerius Maximus, ii. 3. 3.
+
+[31] Vitruvius, iii. 2, 5; Propertius, iv. 11, 45; Cic. pro Planc. 32.
+
+[32] Livy, vi. 20.
+
+[33] Livy, v. 48.
+
+[34] Velleius Paterc. ii. 3.
+
+[35] See Merivale, Hist. of the Romans, vol. vi.
+
+[36] Dyer's Rome, 407, 408, 409.
+
+[37] Ampère, Emp. i. 22.
+
+[38] When 400 houses and three or four churches were levelled to the
+ground to make a road for his triumphal approach.--_Rabelais_, Lettre
+viii. p. 21.
+
+[39] Dyer's City of Rome, p. 379.
+
+[40] R, right; L, left.
+
+[41] The statue of Leo X. is interesting as having been erected to this
+popular art-loving pope in his lifetime. It is inscribed--"Optimi
+liberalissimique pontificis memoriæ."
+
+[42] Plin. Nat Hist xxix. 14, I; Plut. Fort. Rom. 12.
+
+[43] Hist. Rom. i. 382.
+
+[44] The "Dies Iræ," by Tommaso di Celano, of the fourteenth century.
+
+[45] "Per gradus qui sunt super Calpurnium fornicem."
+
+[46] Paradiso, canto xii.
+
+[47] Hist. Rome.
+
+[48] "Est locus in carcere quod Tullianum appellatur, ubi paululum
+descenderis ad lævam, circiter duodecim pedes humi depressus. Eum
+muniunt undique parietes, atque insuper camera lapideis fornicibus
+vincta; sed incultu, tenebris, odore foeda. atque terribilis ejus
+facies."--_Sall. Catil._ lv.
+
+[49] See Ampère, Hist. Rom. ii. 31.
+
+[50] This story is most picturesquely told by Dante. Purg. x. 72.
+
+[51] Ovid, Fasti, v. 575, 699.
+
+[52] Statius, i. 6. Livy, vii. 6.
+
+[53] Livy, vii. 6. Varr. iv. 32.
+
+[54] Pliny, xv. 18.
+
+[55] Suetonius, Aug. 22.
+
+[56] Cicero de Off. ii. 25.
+
+[57] Livy, iii. 48.
+
+[58] Pliny, xv. 29.
+
+[59] Vitruvius, iii.
+
+[60] Ampère, Emp. ii. 233.
+
+[61] Josephus, vii. 37.
+
+[62] Pliny, xxxvi. 7.
+
+[63] See Percy's Romanism.
+
+[64] See the whole question of Simon Magus discussed in Waterworth's
+"England and Rome."
+
+[65] Prudentius contra Symmac. i. 1, 25.
+
+[66] Dion Cassius, lxvi. 15.
+
+[67] S. Buonaventura is perhaps best known to the existing Christian
+world as the author of the beautiful hymn, "Recordare sanctæ crucis."
+
+[68] Varro, de R. Rust i. 2, and iii. 16.
+
+[69] See Poggio, De Vanitate Fortunæ.
+
+[70] This inscription, found in the catacomb of S. Agnese, runs:
+
+    "Sic præmia servas Vespasiane dire
+    Premiatus es morte Gaudenti letare
+    Civitatis ubi gloriæ tuæ autori,
+    Promisit iste Kristus omnia tibi
+    Quï alium paravit theatrum in coelo."
+
+
+[71] See Hemans' Catholic Italy.
+
+[72] A work has been published by S. Deakin on the Flora of the
+Coliseum. This was very remarkable, but has greatly suffered during the
+so-called cleansing of the building by the Italian government in 1871.
+
+[73] Quamdiu stat Colysæus, stabit et Roma; quando cadet Colysæus, cadet
+Roma; quando cadet Roma, cadet et mundus.
+
+[74] See Ampère, Hist. Rom. ii. 289--292.
+
+[75] "Quis a signo Vertumni in circum maximum venit, quin is unoquoque
+gradu de avaritia tua commoneretur? quam tu viam tensarum atque pompæ
+ejus modi exegisti, ut tu ipse ire non audeas."--_In Verrem_, i. 59.
+
+[76] Varro, de Ling. Lat. v. 44. See Ampère, Hist. Rom. ii. 32.
+
+[77] Varro, de Ling. Lat. iv. 8.
+
+[78] "There is no doubt that many of the amusements, still more many of
+the religious practices now popular in this capital, may be traced to
+sources in Pagan antiquity. The game of _morra_, played with the fingers
+(the _micare digitis_ of the ancients); the rural feasting before the
+chapel of the _Madonna del divino Amore_ on Whit Monday; the revelry and
+dancing _sub diu_ for the whole night on the Vigil of St. John, (a scene
+on the Lateran piazza, riotous, grotesque, but not licentious); the
+divining by dreams to obtain numbers for the lottery; hanging _ex voto_
+pictures in churches to commemorate escapes from danger or recovery from
+illness; the offering of jewels, watches, weapons, &c., to the Madonna;
+the adorning and dressing of sacred images, sometimes for particular
+days; throwing flowers on the Madonna's figure when borne in processions
+(as used to be honoured the image, or stone, of Cybele); burning lights
+before images on the highways; paying special honour to sacred pictures,
+under the notion of their having moved their eyes; or to others, under
+the idea of their supernatural origin--made without hands; wearing
+effigies or symbols as amulets (thus Sylla wore, and used to invoke, a
+little golden Apollo hung round his neck); suspending flowers to shrines
+and tombs; besides other uses, in themselves blameless and beautiful,
+nor, even if objectionable, to be regarded as the genuine reflex of what
+is dogmatically taught by the Church. This enduring shadow thrown by
+Pagan over Christian Rome is, however, a remarkable feature in the story
+of that power whose eminence in ruling and influencing was so
+wonderfully sustained, nor destined to become extinct after empire had
+departed from the Seven Hills."--_Hemans' Monuments of Rome._
+
+[79] Made to flow with wine under Heliogabalus.
+
+[80] Pliny, xxxiv. 2.
+
+[81] Livy, xxi. 62.
+
+[82] Ampère, Hist. Rom. i.
+
+[83] Dyer, 104.
+
+[84] Livy, v. 40.
+
+[85] Dion Cassius, lxiii. 21.
+
+[86] Ampère, iii. 48.
+
+[87] Vitruvius, iii. 3.
+
+[88] Fasti, i. 515.
+
+[89] Plin. H. N. vii. 36; Val. Max. v. 4--7; Festus, p. 609.
+
+[90] Beatrice and Lucrezia Cenci were imprisoned in the Corte Savella,
+and led thence to execution.
+
+[91] See the account of the Basilica of St. Lorenzo fuori Mura.
+
+[92] See Ch. IV.
+
+[93] See Dyer's City of Rome.
+
+[94] Sat. iii.
+
+[95] Sat. xvi.
+
+[96] See Dr. Philip's article on "The Jews in Rome."
+
+[97] This account is much abridged from the interesting translation in
+Whiteside's "Italy in the Nineteenth Century," from "_Beatrice Cenci
+Romana, Storia del Secolo xvi. Raccontata dal D. A. A. Firenze_."
+
+[98] Livy, iv. 16; xxxviii. 28.
+
+[99] Merivale, Hist. of Romans under the Empire, chap. xl.
+
+[100] Merivale, chap. xl.
+
+[101] Sueton. _Aug._ 72.
+
+[102] Livy, i. 41.
+
+[103] Livy, i. 41.
+
+[104] The palace of Numa was close to the Temple of Vesta; that of
+Tullus Hostilius was on the Coelian; those of Servius Tullius and
+Tarquinius Superbus on the Esquiline.
+
+[105] Dionysius, ii. 50; Livy, i. 12.
+
+[106] Varr, iv. 8.
+
+[107] Vell. Paterc. ii. 81.
+
+[108] Tac. _Ann._ xi. 2.
+
+[109] Dion Cassius mentions that the ceilings of Halls of Justice in the
+Palatine were painted by Severus to represent the starry sky. The old
+Roman practice was for the magistrate to sit under the open sky, which
+probably suggested this kind of ceiling.
+
+[110] Ann, iv. 54.
+
+[111] Tac. _Ann._ xiii. 18; Suet. _Ner._ 33; Dion. lxi. 7.
+
+[112] See Gibbon, i. 133.
+
+[113] Tacitus, Hist. i. 77; Suet. Vitell. 15.
+
+[114] Merivale, ch. xlv.
+
+[115] Suet. Cal. 22.
+
+[116] _Suet. Claud._ 10. "Prorepsit ad solarium proximum, interque
+prætenta foribus vela se abdidit." The solarium was the external
+terraced portico, and this still remains.
+
+[117] Tac. _Ann._ xi. 37, 38; Dion. lx. 31; Suet. _Claud._ 39.
+
+[118] Tac. _Ann._ xii. 67; Suet _Claud._ 44.
+
+[119] Dionysius, i. 32; Livy, xxix. 14.
+
+[120] Dyer's Hist. of the City of Rome.
+
+[121] Ep. i. 70.
+
+[122] Festus, 340, 348.
+
+[123] Suet. Tib. 47; Cal. 21, 22; Tac. Ann. vi. 45.
+
+[124] De re Rust, iii. 5.
+
+[125] Pliny, xxxvi. 2.
+
+[126] See Smith's Dict. of Roman Biography.
+
+[127] Plin. H. N. xvii. 1.
+
+[128] ix. 1, 4.
+
+[129] Suet. _Nero_, 2.
+
+[130] Smith's Dict. of Roman Biography.
+
+[131] Tollam altius tectum, non ut ego te despiciam, sed ne tu aspicias
+urbem eam, quam delere voluisti.--_De Harusp. Res._ 15.
+
+[132] Cic. pro Dom. ad Pont. 42.
+
+[133] See Ampère, Hist. Rom. iv. 528.
+
+[134] Dion Cass. liiii. 27.
+
+[135] Dyer, p. 143.
+
+[136] Pro Quinet. 1, 2, 22, 24, 26.
+
+[137] Pro Verr. i. 14, 39.
+
+[138] Ad Att. vi. 6.
+
+[139] Macrob. Saturn, ii. 9.
+
+[140] Varr. R. R. iii. 17; Pliny, H. N. ix. 55.
+
+[141] Suet. _Aug._ 72.
+
+[142] Plut. _Romul._ xi.
+
+[143] Tac. Ann. xii. 24.
+
+[144] Prell. R. Myth. 456.
+
+[145] Cic. de Div. i. 45; Livy, v. 32.
+
+[146] Plut. _Rom. Sol._ 2.
+
+[147] Cic. _Brut._ 34.
+
+[148] Padre Garucci, S. J., has published an exhaustive monograph on
+this now celebrated "Graffito Blasphemo." Roma, 1857.
+
+[149] The Palace of Nero is described in Tacitus, Ann. xv. 42, and
+Suetonius, _Ner._ 31.
+
+[150] Septimius Severus was born A.D. 146, near Leptis in Africa.
+Statius addresses a poem to one of his ancestors, Sept. Severus of
+Leptis.
+
+[151] Martial, xii. Ep. 75.
+
+[152] Dion Cass. Commod.
+
+[153] Lamprid. Elagab. 8.
+
+[154] Cassiod. vii. 5.
+
+[155] Dyer's Rome, p. 222.
+
+[156] Ampère, Hist. Rom. iv. 460.
+
+[157] Trebellius Pollio.
+
+[158] Gibbon, v. 1.
+
+[159] S. Filippo Neri.
+
+[160] Mrs. Jameson.
+
+[161] Montalembert, Moines d'Occident.
+
+[162] Milman's Latin Christianity, vol. II.
+
+[163] Rome possesses at least eight fine modern statues of
+saints:--besides those of Sta. Silvia and St. Gregory, are the Sta.
+Agnese of Algardi, the Sta. Bibiana of Bernini, the Sta. Cecilia of
+Moderno, the Sta. Susanna of Quesnoy, the Sta. Martina of Menghino, and
+the S. Bruno of Houdon.
+
+[164] See Roma Sotterranea, p. 106.
+
+[165] "Deus, qui sanctum Joannem confessorem tuum perfectæ suæ
+abnegationis, et crucis amatorem eximium efficisti, concede; ut ejus
+imitationi jugiter inhærentes, gloriam assequamur æternam."--_Collect of
+St. John of the Cross, Roman Vesper-Book._
+
+[166] A square nimbus indicates that a portrait was executed _before_, a
+round _after_ the death of the person represented.
+
+[167] See Emile Braun--the building of the Macellum is described by Dion
+Cassius, xi. 18; Notitia, Reg. ii.
+
+[168] Best known by his comic pictures in the Uffizi at Florence.
+
+[169] Virg. Æn. viii. 104, 108, 216; Ov. Fast. i. 551.
+
+[170] Ov. Fast. v. 149.
+
+[171] Ampère, Hist. Rom. i. 79.
+
+[172] Varro, iv. 7.
+
+[173] Livy, i, 20.
+
+[174] Ovid, Fast. iii. 295.
+
+[175] "Onions, hair, and pilchards."--See Plutarch's Life of Numa.
+
+[176] Ampère, Hist. Rom. i. 427.
+
+[177] Dionysius, iii. 43.
+
+[178] Ovid, Fast. v. 293.
+
+[179] Fast. iii 883.
+
+[180] Ovid, Trist. iii. 71.
+
+[181] See the account of the Ch. of Sta. Francesca Romana, Chap. iv.
+
+[182] Livy, v. 22.
+
+[183] Ovid, Fast. vi. 727.
+
+[184] Martial, x. Ep. 56.
+
+[185] Propert. iv. El. 9.
+
+[186] Mart. vi. Ep. 64.
+
+[187] There is a beautiful picture of Sta. Sabina by Vivarini of Murano,
+in St. Zacharia at Venice.
+
+[188] Hemans' Monuments in Rome.
+
+[189] Commemorated in the beautiful Memoir of "A Dominican Artist"
+(Rivingtons, 1872).
+
+[190] Some antiquaries attribute them to the wall of the Aventine, built
+by Ancus Martius. The arch, of course, is an addition.
+
+[191] Hemans' Story of Monuments in Rome, ii. 228.
+
+[192] Livy, i. 10.
+
+[193] Livy, xxvii. 25; xxix. 11.
+
+[194] Hemans' Mediæval Sacred Art.
+
+[195] This bust has been supposed to represent the poet Ennius, the
+friend of Scipio Africanus, because his last request was that he might
+be buried by his side. Even in the time of Cicero, Ennius was believed
+to be buried in the tomb of the Scipios. "Carus fuit Africano superiori
+noster Ennius: itaque etiam in sepulchro Scipionum putatur is esse
+constitutus ex marmore."--_Cic. Orat. pro Arch. Poeta._
+
+[196] Dyer's Hist. of the City of Rome.
+
+[197] Coppi, Memorie Colonnesi, p. 342.
+
+[198] See Dyer's Hist. of the City of Rome, p. 85.
+
+[199] _Ibid._ p. 97.
+
+[200] _Ibid._ p. 122.
+
+[201] This story is told by St. Ambrose.
+
+[202] This story is represented in one of the ancient tapestries in the
+cathedral of Anagni.
+
+[203] Amm. Marcell. lib. xxvii. c.
+
+[204] Roma Sotterranea, p. 130.
+
+[205] Roma Sotterranea, p. 177.
+
+[206] Roma Sotterranea, p. 97.
+
+[207] St. Melchiades, buried in another part of the catacomb, who lived
+long in peace after the persecution had ceased.
+
+[208] Hippolytus, Adrias, Marca, Neo, Paulina, and others.
+
+[209] St. Damasus was buried in the chapel above the entrance.
+
+[210] "A more striking commentary on the divine promise, 'The Lord
+keepeth all the bones of his servants: He will not lose one of them'
+(Ps. xxxiii. 24), it would be difficult to conceive."--_Roma
+Sotterranea._
+
+[211] Roma Sotterranea, p. 180.
+
+[212] Alban Butler, viii. 204.
+
+[213] Roma Sotterranea, p. 182.
+
+[214] Roma Sotterranea, p. 242.
+
+[215] Roma Sotterranea, p. 247.
+
+[216] Lord Lindsay's Christian Art, i. 46.
+
+[217] Alban Butler, viii. 148.
+
+[218] Lib. Pont.
+
+[219] Now Santa Maria, an island near Gaieta.
+
+[220] Alban Butler, v. 205.
+
+[221] Alban Butler, v. 205.
+
+[222] For these and many other particulars, see an interesting lecture
+by Mr. Shakespere Wood, on "The Fountain of Egeria," given before the
+Roman Archæological Society.
+
+[223] Ampère, Hist. Rom. iv. 402.
+
+[224] Merivale, Romans under the Empire, ch. xi.
+
+[225] Ampère, Hist. Rom. i. 141
+
+[226] Dionysius, ii. 63.
+
+[227] Ovid, Met. xiv. 452, 453.
+
+[228] Dyer's Rome, p. 95.
+
+[229] Pliny, Hist. Nat. xv. 35, 2.
+
+[230] Dion Cass. liv.
+
+[231] "De Cæsare vicino scripseram ad te, quia cognoram ex tuis literis,
+eum [Greek: sunnaon], Quirino malo, quam Saluti." Ad Att. xii.
+45.
+
+[232] Vespasian had a brother named Sabinus; his son's name recalls that
+of Titus Tatius.
+
+[233] "Deus, qui inter cætera sapientiæ tuæ miracula etiam in tenera
+ætate maturæ sanctitatis gratiam contulisti; da, quæsumus, ut beati
+Stanislai exemplo, tempus, instanter operando, redimentes, in æternam
+ingredi requiem festinemus."--_Collect of St. S. Kostka, Roman
+Vesper-Book._
+
+[234] Cardinal Wiseman's Life of Pius VII.
+
+[235] By this same master is the interesting fresco of Sixtus IV. and
+his nephews--now in the Vatican gallery.
+
+[236] The body of this saint is said to repose at S. Lorenzo fuori Mura;
+his head is at the Quirinal; at S. Lorenzo in Lucina his gridiron and
+chains are shown.
+
+[237] Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art.
+
+[238] Roma Christiana.
+
+[239] Dyer, p. 94.
+
+[240] "At Rome, Selvaggi made a Latin distich in honour of Milton, and
+Salsilli a Latin tetrastich, celebrating him for his Greek, Latin, and
+Italian poetry; and he in return presented to Salsilli in his sickness
+those fine Scazons or Iambic verses having a spondee in the last foot,
+which are inserted among his juvenile poems. From Rome he went to
+Naples."--_Newton._
+
+[241] A holy hermit of Scete, who died 391.
+
+[242] See Roma Sotterranea, p. 174.
+
+[243] Une Chrétienne à Rome.
+
+[244] The reasons for this belief are given in "The Roman Catacombs of
+Northcote," p. 78.
+
+[245] The bodies were removed to Sta. Sabina in the fifth century by
+Celestine I.
+
+[246] Cramer's Ancient Italy, i. 389.
+
+[247] Cic. Phil. ix. 7. See Dyer's Rome, p. 215.
+
+[248] Sat i. 8, 15.
+
+[249] See Hemans' Catholic Italy, Part I.
+
+[250] Ampère, Hist. Rom. i. 38.
+
+[251] Varro, de Ling. Lat. iv. 8.
+
+[252] Fest. _v._ Septimone.
+
+[253] Ampère, Hist. Rom. i. 65.
+
+[254] Fest. p. 297.
+
+[255] Cicero pro doma sua, 38; Dionysius, viii. 79; Livy, ii. 41.
+
+[256] See Dyer's City of Rome, p. 65. The Acts of the Martyrs mention
+that several Christians suffered "In tellure."
+
+[257] See Ampère, Hist. Rom. iv. 421.
+
+[258] See Ampère, Hist. Rom. iv. 431.
+
+[259] Liv. i. 26; Dionysius, iii. 22.
+
+[260] Merivale, Romans under the Empire, ch. liii.
+
+[261] "Des huit figures ébauchées il y en a deux aujourd'hui au musée du
+Louvre (les deux esclaves). Lorsque Michel-Ange eut renoncé à son plan
+primitif il en fit don à Roberto Strozzi. Des mains de Strozzi elles
+passèrent dans celles de François 1er, et puis dans celles du
+connétable de Montmorency, qui les plaça à son château d'Ecouen, d'où
+elles sont venues au Louvre. Quatre autres _prisonniers_ sont placés
+dans la grotte de Buontalenti au jardin du Palais Pitti, à Florence. Un
+groupe, représentant une figure virile en terrassant une seconde, se
+voit aujourd'hui dans la grande salle del _Cinquecento_, au Palais vieux
+de Florence, où elle fut placé par Côsme 1er."--_F. Sabatier._
+
+[262] The wife of Oswy, king of Northumberland received a golden key
+containing filings of the chains from Pope Vitalianus, in the sixth
+century.
+
+[263] Acts xii. II.
+
+[264] Hist. Rom. i. 464.
+
+[265] "Ciampini gives an engraving of this figure without the key: a
+detail, therefore, to be ascribed to restorers:--surely neither
+justifiable nor judicious."--_Hemans._
+
+[266] With a square nimbus, denoting execution in his lifetime, as at
+Sta. Cecilia and Sta. Maria in Navicella.
+
+[267] See Hemans' Catholic Italy.
+
+[268] Croiret, Vie des Saints.
+
+[269] I. 26.
+
+[270] Ampère, Hist. Rom. iii. 177.
+
+[271] It was found in the gardens of the convent of Sta. Maria sopra
+Minerva
+
+[272] This pagan benediction of the animals is represented in a
+bas-relief in the Vatican (Museo Pio-Clementino, 157). A peasant bearing
+two ducks as his offering, brings his cow to be blessed by a priest at
+the door of a chapel, and the priest delaying to come forth, a calf
+drinks up the holy water. Ovid describes how he took part in the feast
+of Pales, and sprinkled the cattle with a laurel bough. (_Fasti_, iv.
+728.)
+
+[273] His flat tombstone is in the centre of the nave.
+
+[274] This story is the subject of two of Murillo's most beautiful
+pictures in the Academy at Madrid. The first represents the vision of
+the Virgin to John and his wife,--in the second they tell what they have
+seen to Pope Liberius.
+
+[275] This mosaic will bring to mind the beautiful lines of Dante:--
+
+    "L'amor che mosse già l'eterno padre
+    Per figlia aver di sua Deita trina
+    Costei che fu del figlio suo poi madre
+    Dell' universo qui fa la regina."
+
+
+[276] See Sta. Dorothea, ch. xvii.
+
+[277] St. Venantius was a child martyred at Camerino, under Decius, in
+250. Pope Clement X., who had been bishop of Camerino, had a peculiar
+veneration for this saint.
+
+[278] This figure of the Virgin is of great interest, as introducing the
+Greek classical type under which she is so often afterwards represented
+in Latin art.
+
+[279] It was near the Lateran, on the site of the gardens of Plautius
+Lateranus, that the famous statues of the Niobedes, attributed to
+Scopus, now at Florence, were found. The fine tomb of the Plautii is a
+striking object on the road to Tivoli.
+
+[280] See Sta. Pudenziana, ch. x.
+
+[281] These columns are mentioned in the thirteenth century list of
+Lateran relics, which says that _all_ the relics of the Temple at
+Jerusalem brought by Titus, were preserved at the Lateran.
+
+[282] There is a curious mosaic portrait of Clement XII. in the Palazzo
+Corsini.
+
+[283] Sergius III. ob. 911; Agapetus II. ob. 956; John XII. ob. 964;
+Sylvester II. ob. 1003; John XVIII. ob. 1009; Alexander II. ob. 1073;
+Pascal II. ob. 1118; Calixtus II. ob. 1124; Honorius II. ob. 1140;
+Celestine II. ob. 1143; Lucius II. ob. 1145; Anastasius IV. ob. 1154;
+Alexander III. ob. 1159; Clement III. ob. 1191; Celestine III. ob. 1198;
+Innocent V. ob. 1276--were buried at St. John Lateran, besides those
+later popes whose tombs still exist.
+
+[284] "Ces monuments, consacrés par la tradition, n'ont pas été jugés
+cependant assez authentiques pour être solennellement exposés a la
+vénération des fidèles."--_Gournerie._
+
+[285] Sta. Helena is claimed as an English saint, and all the best
+authorities allow that she was born in England,--according to Gibbon, at
+York--according to others, at Colchester, which town bears as its arms a
+cross between three crowns, in allusion to this claim. Some say that she
+was an innkeeper's daughter, others that her father was a powerful
+British prince, Coilus or Coel.
+
+[286] Emp. ii. 43.
+
+[287] The existence of this inscription makes the destruction of this
+catacomb under Pius IX. the more extraordinary.
+
+[288] Dyer's Rome, 70.
+
+[289] Ampère, Hist. ii. 10.
+
+[290] Ampère, Emp. i. 184.
+
+[291] Pliny, H. N. xxxv. 37, 2; and 49, 4.
+
+[292] Dyer, 111.
+
+[293] Dyer, 211.
+
+[294] It was close to this temple of Hercules that the bodies of Sta.
+Symphorosa and her seven sons, martyred under Hadrian ("the seven
+Biothanati"), were buried by order of the emperor. Sta. Symphorosa
+herself had been hung up here by her hair, before being drowned in the
+Tiber.
+
+[295] Dyer, 113, 115.
+
+[296] Ampère, Hist. Rom. iii. 198.
+
+[297] Dyer, 115.
+
+[298] Dyer, 115, 116.
+
+[299] Pliny, H. N. xxxvi. 15, 24.
+
+[300] So called from a fountain adorned with the figure of a sow, which
+once existed here.
+
+[301] "Here rests Hadrian, who found his greatest misfortune in being
+obliged to command."
+
+[302] There is a chapel dedicated to St. Bridget in S. Paolo fuori Mura.
+Sion House, in England, was a famous convent of the Brigittines.
+
+[303] See Penny Cyclopædia, and Lewes's Hist. of Philosophy.
+
+[304] Shakespeare, Julius Cæsar, act iii. sc. 2.
+
+[305] So called from a slight hollow, scarcely now perceptible, left by
+a reservoir made by Agrippa for the public benefit, and used by Nero in
+his fêtes.
+
+[306] The story of St. Agnes is told by St. Jerome.
+
+[307] Donna Olympia soon after died of the plague at her villa near
+Viterbo.
+
+[308] "Les maisons de la Place Navone sont assises sur la base des
+anciens gradins du cirque de Domitien. Sous ces gradins étaient les
+voûtes habitées par des femmes perdues."--_Ampère, Emp._ ii. 137.
+
+[309] A corruption of "Epiphania"--Epiphany.
+
+[310]
+
+    "Living, great nature feared he might outvie
+    Her works; and, dying, fears herself to die."
+
+    _Pope's Translation (without acknowledgment) in
+    his Epitaph on Sir Godfrey Kneller._
+
+
+[311] Raphael lay in state beneath his last great work, the
+Transfiguration.
+
+[312] See Gregorovius, Grabm[=a]ler der P[=a]pste.
+
+[313] Author of the "Rationale Divinorum Officiorum"--"A treasure of
+information on all points connected with the decorations and services of
+the mediæval church. Durandus was born in Provence about 1220, and died
+in 1290 at Rome."--_Lord Lindsay._
+
+[314] It is no honour to me to be like another Apelles, but rather, O
+Christ, that I gave all my gains to thy poor. One was a work for earth,
+the other for heaven--a city, the flower of Etruria, bare me, John.
+
+[315] That part of the ancient Campus Martius which contains the Theatre
+of Marcellus and Portico of Octavia, is described in Chapter V.; that
+which belongs to the Via Flaminia in Chapter II.
+
+[316] Vasari, v.
+
+[317] A scholar of Bronzino.
+
+[318] See Vasari, vol. vii.
+
+[319] It is interesting to observe that the same vision was seen under
+the same circumstances in other periods of history.
+
+"So the Lord sent pestilence upon Israel, and there fell of Israel
+seventy thousand men. And God sent an angel to Jerusalem to destroy it
+... and David lifted up his eyes, and saw the angel of the Lord stand
+between the earth and the heaven, having a drawn sword in his hand
+stretched out over Jerusalem."--1 Chron. xxi. 14--16.
+
+"Before the plague of London had begun (otherwise than in St. Giles's),
+seeing a crowd of people in the street, I joined them to satisfy my
+curiosity, and found them all staring up into the air, to see what a
+woman told them appeared plain to her. This was an angel clothed in
+white, with a fiery sword in his hand, waving it, or brandishing it over
+his head: she described every part of the figure to the life, and showed
+them the motion and the form."--_Defoe, Hist. of the Plague._
+
+[320] The pictures at Ara Coeli and Sta. Maria Maggiore both claim to
+be that carried by St. Gregory in this procession. The song of the
+angels is annually commemorated on St. Mark's Day, when the clergy pass
+by in procession to St. Peter's; and the Franciscans of Ara Coeli and
+the canons of Sta. Maria Maggiore, halting here, chaunt the antiphon,
+_Regina coeli, lætare_.
+
+[321] Hemans' Story of Monuments in Rome.
+
+[322] "Deus, qui apostolo tuo Petro collatis clavibus regni celestis
+ligandi et solvendi pontificium tradidisti; concede ut intercessionis
+ejus auxilio, a peccatorum nostrorum legibus liberemur: et hanc
+civitatem, quam te adjuvante fundavimus, fac ab ira tua in perpetuum
+permanere securam, et de hostibus, quorum causa constructa est, novos et
+multiplicatos habere triumphos, per Dominum nostrum," &c.
+
+[323] The same whom Alexander VI. had intended to poison, when he
+poisoned himself instead.
+
+[324] At the time of its erection Sixtus V. conceded an indulgence of
+ten years to all who, passing beneath the obelisk, should adore the
+cross on its summit, repeating a pater-noster.
+
+[325] The inscription is from Isaiah iv. 6, "A tabernacle for a shadow
+in the daytime from the heat, and for a place of refuge, and for a
+covert from storm and from rain."
+
+[326] It may not be uninteresting to give the actual words of the
+benediction:--
+
+"May the holy apostles Peter and Paul, in whose power and dominion we
+trust, pray for us to the Lord! Amen.
+
+"Through the prayers and merits of the blessed, eternal Virgin Mary, of
+the blessed archangel Michael, the blessed John the Baptist, the holy
+apostles Peter and Paul, and all saints--may the Almighty God have mercy
+upon you, may your sins be forgiven you, and may Jesus Christ lead you
+to eternal life. Amen.
+
+"Indulgence, absolution, and forgiveness of all sins--time for true
+repentance, a continual penitent heart and amendment of life,--may the
+Almighty and merciful God grant you these! Amen.
+
+"And may the blessing of Almighty God, Father, Son, and Holy Spirit,
+descend upon you, and remain with you for ever. Amen."
+
+[327] "Exuens se chlamyde, et accipiens bidentem, ipse primus terram
+aperuit ad fundamenta basilicæ Sancti Petri continendam; deinde in
+numero duodecim apostolorum duodecim cophinos plenos in humeris
+superimpositos bajulano, de eo loco ubi fundamenta Basilicæ Apostoli
+erant jacenda."--_Cod. Vat. 7. Sancta Cæcil._ 2.
+
+[328] The façade of the old basilica is seen in Raphael's fresco of the
+Incendio del Borgo, and its interior in that of the Coronation of
+Charlemagne.
+
+[329] See Fergusson's Handbook of Architecture, vol. ii.
+
+[330] As in the portico of the temple of Mars were preserved the verses
+of the poet Attius upon Junius Brutus.
+
+[331] These letters are in real mosaic. Those in the nave and transepts
+are in paper--to complete them in mosaic would have been too expensive.
+
+[332] Innocent sent two bishops to receive it at Ancona, two cardinals
+to receive it at Narni, and went himself, with all his court, to meet it
+at the Porto del Popolo.
+
+[333] Eaton's Rome.
+
+[334] Gregorovius, Grabmäler der Päpste.
+
+[335] There is a fine portrait of Urban VIII. by Pietro da Cortona, in
+the Capitol gallery.
+
+[336] See Vasari, vi. 265.
+
+[337] This mosaic occupied ten men constantly for nine years, and cost
+60,000 francs.
+
+[338] Gregorovius.
+
+[339] He had been bishop of St. Alban's, and a missionary for the
+conversion of Norway.
+
+[340] The principal authorities for the fact of St. Peter's being at
+Rome--so often denied by ultra-protestants--are: St. Jerome, Catalogus
+scriptorum ecclesiasticorum, in Petro; Tertullian, de Prescriptionibus,
+c. xxxvi.; and Eusebius, Historia Ecclesiastica, lib. ii. cap. xxiv.
+
+[341] See Hemans' Catholic Italy, vol. i.
+
+[342] See Dyer's Hist. of the City of Rome, p. 358.
+
+[343] Pliny, xxxv. 15.
+
+[344] Tac. Ann. xv. 44.
+
+[345] In the Campo-Santo of Pisa.
+
+[346] Fifteen Psalms are sung before the Miserere begins, and one light
+is extinguished for each--the Psalms being represented by fifteen
+candles.
+
+[347] See the account of the "Tombs of the Scipios" in Chapter IX.
+
+[348] Who is buried by the altar of S. Pietro in Vincoli.
+
+[349] Gournerie, Rome Chrétienne, ii. 62.
+
+[350] For a detailed account of this collection, see Dennis' "Cities and
+Cemeteries of Etruria," whence many of the quotations above are taken;
+also Mrs. Hamilton Gray's "Sepulchres of Etruria."
+
+[351] Vasari calls it Palazzo nel Bosco del Belvedere.
+
+[352] "This is perhaps the grandest of the whole series. Here the
+Almighty is seen rending like a thunderbolt the thick shroud of fiery
+clouds, letting in that light under which his works were to spring into
+life."--_Lady Eastlake._
+
+[353] The candle is ingeniously made crooked in the socket, not to
+interfere with the lines of the architecture, while the flame is
+straight.
+
+[354] "According to the 'Spiritual Meadow' of John Moschus, who died
+A.D. 620, the lion is said to have pined away after Jerome's death, and
+to have died at last on his grave."
+
+[355] See Stefano Infessura, Rev. Ital. Script, tom. iii.
+
+[356] Corio, 1st mil. p. 876.
+
+[357] _Ampère_, i. 436.
+
+[358] See Hemans' Monuments in Rome.
+
+[359] Piranesi's engraving shows that a hundred years ago there existed,
+in addition, a colossal bust, and a hand holding the serpent-twined rod
+of Æsculapius.
+
+[360] Wordsworth.
+
+[361] Hemans' Monuments in Rome.
+
+[362] See the Acts of the Martyrs St. Hippolytus and St. Adrian, and the
+Acts of St. Calepodius, quoted by Canina, R. Aut. p. 584.
+
+[363] Plautus, Capt. i. I, 22.
+
+[364] See the Epistle of St Denis, the Areopagite, to Timothy.
+
+[365] The accounts of the apostle's death vary greatly: "St. Prudentius
+says that both St. Peter and St. Paul suffered together in the same
+field, near a swampy ground, on the banks of the Tiber. Some say St.
+Peter suffered on the same day of the month, but a year before St. Paul.
+But Eusebius, St. Epiphanius, and most others, affirm that they suffered
+the same year, and on the 29th of June."--_Alban Butler._
+
+[366] It is under the shadow of S. Paolo that Cervantes ("Wanderings of
+Persiles and Sigismunda") places the scene of the death of Periander.
+
+[367] Mrs. Jameson.
+
+[368] Among the most interesting of the objects lost in the fire were
+the bronze gates ordered by Hildebrand (afterwards Gregory VII.) when
+legate at Constantinople, for Pantaleone Castelli, in 1070, and adorned
+with fifty-four scriptural compositions, wrought in silver thread.
+
+[369] This picture is now called the Nuptials of Vertumnus and Pomona.
+
+[370] Turrigeræ Antemnæ.--_Virg. Æn._ vii. 631.
+
+[371]
+
+             ---- Antemnaque prisco
+    Crustumio prior.
+
+
+[372] The other two were Cæcina and Crustumium.
+
+[373] See Dyer's Hist. of the City of Rome.
+
+[374] Masses of reddish rock of volcanic tufa are still to be seen here,
+breaking through the soil of the Campagna.
+
+[375] Built by Mario Mellini in the fifteenth century.
+
+[376] Martial, Ep. x. 45, 5.
+
+[377] Martial, Ep. vi. 92, 3.
+
+[378] Fast. i. 246.
+
+[379] Ampère, Hist. Rom. i. 227.
+
+[380] Niebuhr, i. 240.
+
+[381] Arnold, Hist. vol. i.
+
+[382] Ampère, Hist. Rom. i. 389.
+
+[383] Niebuhr, i. 353.
+
+[384] Hemans.
+
+[385] See Thiers' History of the French Revolution.
+
+[386] It has been supposed that the beautiful silver vase which is shown
+in the Corsini Palace, and which was picked up in the Tiber, belonged to
+this plate.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Walks in Rome, by Augustus J.C. Hare
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