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The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Manual of Toy Dogs, by Mrs. Leslie Williams
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Title: A Manual of Toy Dogs
How to breed, rear, and feed them
Author: Mrs. Leslie Williams
Release Date: March 24, 2012 [EBook #39235]
Language: English
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<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i002.jpg" width="400" height="404" alt="" title="">
<span class="caption">MISS MURRAY'S BLACK PUGS. Frontispiece</span>
</div>
<br><br>
<h2> A MANUAL OF</h2>
<h1> TOY DOGS</h1>
<p class='smaller center'> <b>HOW TO BREED, REAR, AND FEED THEM</b></p>
<p class='padtop smaller center'><b>BY</b><br>
<span class='larger'><b>MRS. LESLIE WILLIAMS</b></span></p>
<p class='padtop smaller center'><b>THIRD EDITION</b></p>
<p class='smaller center'><b>THIRD IMPRESSION</b></p>
<p class='padtop smaller center'><b>LONDON</b><br>
<span class='larger center'><b>EDWARD ARNOLD</b></span></p>
<p class='smaller center'><b>41 & 48, MADDOX STREET, BOND STREET, W. <br>1919</b></p>
<p class='padtop smaller center'><i>Copyright 1904<br>All rights reserved</i>
<hr style="width: 65%;" >
<h2>PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION</h2>
<p>This little book, in its earlier editions, met with so
uniformly kind and gracious a reception, that I am
encouraged to hope it may still make new friends on this,
its third appearance. It has given me the greatest
pleasure to hear from correspondents in many countries
that they have found it as helpful as I hoped a manual
drawn entirely from actual personal experience might
prove to be.</p>
<p>In the years which have elapsed since I first wrote
upon dogs, there has been a wonderful advance in
veterinary science and practice. Operative surgery
under anæsthetics has become nearly as confident in
relieving our pets as in abating our own miseries.
Much disease, however, is still present among dogs for
which there is no warrant in Nature, and which might
be entirely conquered in the course of a few generations,
could the prejudice against natural and rational diet
be completely abandoned. To persuade dog-owners
to give meat-feeding a trial—one honest experiment
has never in my experience failed to convince the most
sceptical—has been my constant endeavour, and I
cannot let the "Toy Dog Manual" go forth on another
journey without once more laying emphasis on the fact
that the really successful dog-owner's secret is a very
simple one, spelt in the four letters—MEAT. I have
to thank numerous kind friends for help in providing
the illustrations, nearly all pictures of actual present-day
winning dogs, and examples not only of beauty
and show points, but of perfect health. I am also
greatly indebted to <i>The Illustrated Kennel News</i> for the
loan of blocks and for other kind courtesies, as also to
<i>The Ladies' Field</i>, a paper devoted in its kennel columns
to the best interest of dogs.</p>
<p>
<span style="margin-left: 2em;">M. L. WILLIAMS.</span><br >
<br>
<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><span class="smcap">Swanswick, Bath</span>,</span><br>
<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>May 5th, 1910.</i></span><br>
</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right">PAGE</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_1">TOY DOGS FOR PROFIT</a></td><td align="right">1</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">ON BREEDING</a></td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">THE TOY BITCH WHEN PUPPING</a></td><td align="right">9</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">ON REARING PUPS</a></td><td align="right">14</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">ON FEEDING TOYS</a></td><td align="right">19</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">EXHIBITING AND PREPARING FOR EXHIBITION</a></td><td align="right">23</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">THE CHOICE OF BREEDS</a></td><td align="right">30</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">AILMENTS AND ILLNESSES</a></td><td align="right">42</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CLUB STANDARDS, DESCRIPTIONS AND POINTS OF VARIOUS TOY BREEDS</a><td align="right">80</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#INDEX">INDEX</a></td><td align="right">105</td></tr>
</table></div>
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 1]</span>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<h2>A MANUAL OF TOY DOGS</h2>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<h2><a name="CHAPTER_1" id="CHAPTER_1"></a>CHAPTER 1</h2>
<p class="center">TOY DOGS FOR PROFIT</p>
<p>Perhaps the question which is most frequently asked
anent toy dogs is whether the keeping them as a pleasure
and hobby can be combined with profit by means
of breeding them and selling the puppies. To such a
query it is very hard to give a definite reply, for this
reason—whether or not toy dog breeding can be made
profitable depends, firstly, on the character of the enterpriser,
and, secondly, on that inscrutable factor—Fate.
Some of us devote ourselves to our dogs, take endless
trouble for them, and spend money on them freely, with
the poorest possible return; others, while not making
nearly so much fuss about their pets, manage to turn
out healthy litters at regular intervals, and sell them at
remunerative prices. All that can be done is to put
before the novice "how <i>not</i> to do it," and leave to each
individually the chances called luck, for which their
star is answerable. Taking one year with another, and
presupposing patience, perseverance, affection for the
dogs, and some business-like qualities in the aspirant,
I am of opinion that toy dogs can be made to pay their
expenses, and leave a margin of profit; this in the
case of non-exhibitors. Where exhibiting is contemplated,
the luck element is still more to the front, and
a degree of experience, both local and general, is essential
to success. If success, however, in winning prizes is
once attained, the sales of puppies become much more
assured, and higher prices are naturally obtainable.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 2]</span>
<p>As a means of eking out a small income, dog breeding
is occasionally successful, supposing the breeder to
possess advantages in the way of proper quarters, and
plenty of time to spare, natural aptitude not being
wanted; but I should greatly hesitate to suggest to a
poor lady, without experience in dogs, that she should
embark capital in such a venture. Many people seem
possessed with the idea that they have only to buy a
female dog, or dogs (generally the latter, since the novice
is always inclined to split upon the rock of overcrowding
and overstocking at first), and get it mated with some
well-known sire, to ensure a fine, healthy litter of pups,
which can be immediately sold at high prices, having in
the meantime been fed on dog biscuit and attended to,
more or less, by any one who happens to be at home. No
greater mistake! If you want to succeed with toy dogs,
you must, at any rate until you have considerable experience
and, in addition, the ability to direct others and
make them understand, which is never an easy task,
look after the pets yourself, not spasmodically, but
regularly; see that they have exercise and proper food
in proper quantity and variety, and at fixed and regular
hours; you must have an eye always open to notice the
smallest beginnings of illness—a watchfulness servants,
for example, never can comprehend, still less practise;
and lastly, you must set an aim before you and keep to
it with perseverance, even though you may, and probably
will, often feel impatient and despairing. Then,
too, you must be prepared to nurse the dogs properly if,
or when, they are ill. Nobody can expect to be exempt
from illness, dog or man, and good nursing is as needful in
the one case as in the other. A sick toy dog must be kept
clean, petted, sat with, talked to, and tempted with nice
things, like a sick baby, for the little spirit has much to
do with the tender frame, and pain and weakness need
sympathy, and respond to it eagerly. A little toy bitch,
accustomed to fly to her owner at every impulse, cannot
be left to have puppies all alone—though her fussy preparations,
which may last all night, are rather wearisome.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 3]</span>
Some one must stay with her and comfort her until
her troubles are over; otherwise, she will fret and worry
until, when the pups do appear, she has no milk for them.</p>
<p>All these little requirements and necessities may seem
absurd to those who think a dog is a dog and nothing
more; but we have bred generation after generation of
toys to be in our constant company, and made them
almost humanly intelligent, while, naturally, their small
brains have no human balance; and that a nervous
toy dog <i>does</i> need such consideration will be granted,
I am sure, by all successful breeders. At the same
time, I am by no means advocating the silly system of
over-petting and over-feeding, whereby dogs can be made
a nuisance to themselves and every one else. Because
a child must be taken care of, it does not follow that it
need be spoiled: we ought to put a hat on its head
when it goes out in the sun, but we need not walk
beside it, holding an umbrella over it; and so with our
small dogs—they must be watched and cared for, but
they need not, and should not, be coddled and made silly.</p>
<p>I have no opinion of a dog which will not go out
because it is raining, preferring to make itself objectionable
in the house; or of one which leaves the small
proportion of biscuit in its dinner and comes round
scratching your arm for more meat; or of one which
rushes back to the fire when a walk is suggested on a
chilly day. Dogs like this have not been properly cared
for; it is not affection for them, seeking their well-being,
but downright silliness, which is responsible for
their self-indulgent ways. Thanks be that toy dogs
of this kind are becoming much less common, and
indeed, in the case of any person desiring to keep them
with an idea of profit, such ways would be discouraged
by self-interest, for pampered dogs are not those which
breed freely and do their puppies justice.</p>
<p>Where it is necessary that the dogs shall pay their
way, it is of the first necessity that the inevitable
expenses of starting and gaining experience shall be
carefully considered. It is not a bad plan to get a
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_4" id="Pg_4"></a>[Pg 4]</span>
little cheap dog, and see it through a litter before
embarking in a "paying" breed, as where these are
concerned it is useless to expect return unless a really
good price has been paid for valuable stock to begin
with. One does occasionally see such toys as Japs
and Poms advertised very cheaply; and I have known
people who studied these advertisements with rosy
visions of "picking up" a bitch from an excellent
strain, at a guinea or two—with some slight fault,
like a few white hairs, to cheapen her—of breeding show
stock from her and making a little fortune. Chances
like this seldom come in the way of the novice. The
best start a would-be breeder who is without any experience
can have, is by placing herself in the hands
of some one who has been successful, buying a young
bitch which comes of a winning strain, though it may
possess some fault, at a fair price—which will not be
a small one—and taking the breeder's advice as to
mating, etc. Or it is by no means a bad plan to buy a
brace of unrelated young puppies and rear them. Of
this, more in the chapter on breeding.</p>
<p>To buy imported or pedigreeless small toys for breeding
is a complete lottery. Foreign breeders are extremely
careless with regard to their strains, and purity of blood
can never be depended on. Another point which must
be insisted upon in relation to profitable toy breeding
is the necessity for health in the kennel. I say kennel
because it is a useful word, but am far from suggesting
that toys of any kind should be kept in the way understood
by "having a kennel" among larger dogs. The
breeder who succeeds best is invariably the one who keeps
one or two, or even four or five, <i>pet</i> bitches, running
about the house enjoying full liberty and all the happiness
of personal favourites, with, it may be, a dog also
of the party. The breeder who is most troubled with
skin complaints, distemper, lengthy vet's bills, and all
the expenses, such as sick diet, which eat up profits, is
the one who has built or fitted "kennels," no matter
at what expense, and filled them with dogs.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 5]</span>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2>
<p class="center"><a name="ON_BREEDING" id="ON_BREEDING"></a>ON BREEDING</p>
<p>Very small bitches, and especially those belonging to
certain breeds which are known to be "shy," are not
only often reluctant to breed at all, but are not infrequently
very indifferent mothers, while there are great
risks to the bitch in pupping where the sire is larger
than herself, or where larger dogs occur in the immediate
ancestry on either side. For these reasons, brood
bitches are always wisely chosen of medium size, and
mated to very tiny dogs. In all the breeds which come
under the head of toys, smallness is a desideratum, but
the practice of inbreeding which has been extensively
resorted to cannot be too highly condemned; while the
equally mistaken idea of attaining this end by under-feeding
puppies has also contributed to the weakliness
of constitution which is an immense drawback to some
breeds. Reckoning size by weight is another faulty
practice much against the true interests of toys, which
we want to be small and healthy at the same time; for
a very tiny dog, if compact and sturdy, may weigh much
more than a leggy specimen which, to the eye, seems
half as large again.</p>
<p>A bitch from 5 lbs. to 7 lbs., if, as I said before, of a
small strain, may be safely used for breeding, and the
smaller the dog the better, provided he is healthy.
The plan of sending away bitches to a stud dog saves
the expense of buying a dog of one's own; the sire's
wins help to sell the puppies very materially, and the
good offices of his owner may generally be reckoned
upon to assist the novice; but there are other facets
to the question.</p>
<p>These tiny dogs, which are frequently exhibited, are
often very unreliable sires; they work too hard, and
their owners are sometimes very indifferent as to
whether the visiting bitches are satisfactorily attended
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 6]</span>
to. True, the terms always do, or certainly always
should, include a second visit free if the first proves
fruitless, but there is the loss of time, the disappointment
to the owner, and sometimes to the little bitch
herself, who may have been quite anxious to breed and
not have had a fair chance, and the trouble and expense
of travelling for her. On the whole, I am much inclined
to advise the novice to, at any rate, <i>begin</i> by rearing up
a male puppy of such breeds as Pekingese and Griffons,
or the scarcer toy Bulldogs, and using it for the home
stud; for the other plan is less likely to result in disappointment
when a little knowledge has been gained of
the kennel world in general. This, of course, unless
the whole thing is gone into under the ægis of some
experienced owner, as before suggested. Some little
bitches are exceedingly capricious, and will not take
the least notice of a strange dog, where they would
willingly mate with one they knew and liked; others
are so upset by a journey and a strange place as to be
useless <i>pro tem.</i>; others, again, instead of being ready to
breed twice a year, as is the usual habit of female dogs,
may only come in season once in twelve months, and then
but fugitively. In such cases it is a positive necessity
to have a dog on the spot. Where a sire must be
chosen from among strangers, his points should correct
any in which the bitch is deficient; your toy pug may
have too small a head, with little wrinkle—you must
look for a dog with good head properties as her mate;
your Pom may be long in back, and you must seek a
male with the opposite quality, and a plume well over
and touching his frill.</p>
<p>The first <a name="pupsize" id="pupsize"></a>puppies of two young dogs are generally
larger than the parents, but I do not believe the theory
often advanced that the first litter is always the best.
Puppies by a very old sire are usually small.</p>
<p>A toy bitch, if sent away, should be carefully packed
in a roomy, warm basket; the provision of draughty,
tumble-to-pieces baskets is false economy, both for
show and breeding purposes. If possible, a toy dog of
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 7]</span>
either sex should have a cosy little basket kennel, with
a door, which it can use at home as a sleeping-place,
and in which it can travel; the basket can be fitted
with an outer case of wood for greater security, but the
dog will stand the journey much better if it is in a
familiar basket. Something with a peaked or rounded
top should be chosen; the ventilation being safer in
this, as flat-sided and flat-topped packages may be so
crowded upon with others in a guard's van as to suffocate
the inmate.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i015.jpg" width="400" height="325" alt="" title="" >
<span class="caption">GRIFFON BRUXELLOIS. "Sparklets," the property
of Miss Johnson.</span>
</div>
<p>The usual <a name="season" id="season"></a>period of willingness to breed in a toy
bitch is, more or less, one week. This is preceded by
about a fortnight's preparation, a week or so of gradual
enlargement of the parts concerned, and a week of a
coloured discharge from the uterus and vagina. Either
or all of the stages may last a longer or shorter time;
but three weeks is generally accepted as the period.
No attempt at mating the bitch should be made during
the first two stages; it is when the discharge begins to
cease that she is ready, and the correct judging of this
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 8]</span>
time is what chiefly puzzles amateurs, though after
they have once been through it they will not find any
difficulty. As a rule, bitches are sent away too soon,
and as the conveniences for keeping them at the stud
dog's house are often few, they are cooped up for day
after day, and may become quite "stale" and dull
before the real mating time comes—a poor prospect.
If the two dogs are in the house together, the male
should be kept entirely away from the female from the
very beginning of her attraction for him, until she is
ready, otherwise he will worry her incessantly and
become himself ultimately indifferent and useless in
the matter. Toy dogs should never be left to themselves
in breeding matters; it is highly dangerous to do
so, especially if they are young and inexperienced, and
I strongly advise the beginner either to get some experienced
breeder to overlook matters and give advice,
or failing this, when the female is ready, to send the
two dogs for a few hours to some kind and sensible
veterinary surgeon. They should be allowed to be
together twice, either on consecutive days, or with a
day between.</p>
<p>Once mated, the little toy bitch must be petted and
taken good care of: not over-fed, but given plenty of
good, nourishing food, and systematically exercised. If
she is in pup it will become evident about the fifth to
the seventh week. Some dogs show it much more
than others; whether she has puppies or not, she will
have the natural provision of milk for them. If she
does not pup, she may very likely come in season again
in half the usual time. A failure to prove in pup is
generally evidenced by a time of great heaviness and
dullness, the bitch sleeping a great deal, getting very
fat, and decidedly stupid; under these circumstances
give her extra exercise and one or two small doses of
sulphate of magnesia in food, to ward off skin irritation,
a not uncommon correlative. People are far too apt to
decide that "<a name="missing" id="missing"></a>missing" is the bitch's fault; certainly
she is apt to miss if she is too fat at the time of mating,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 9]</span>
and Nature often, and very sensibly, arranges that she
shall do so when she has been regularly bred from
at her seasons for a number of times; but outside
these occasions it is quite as often the dog's fault as
not.</p>
<p>A question which is frequently asked is as to the
desirability or otherwise of giving a toy bitch worm
medicine, or an aperient, while she is in pup or just
before her babies arrive. It is as well to give one mild
dose of worm medicine about the end of the third week,
if the bitch is known to be troubled with these parasites
to any great extent; but it would be much better
to have dosed her before her breeding time came on.
As to the aperient before pupping which we often see
advised, it is a totally unnecessary interference with
Nature, and when castor oil, a violent irritant to dogs,
is employed, it is a sheer piece of cruelty, likely to
have very bad effects.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2>
<p class="center">THE TOY BITCH WHEN PUPPING</p>
<p>Too much interference is generally alternated in the
case of dogs with a disregard of their natural feelings
where the arrival of puppies is concerned. It is quite
natural that the little bitch, feeling distressed and
uneasy, should claim a great deal of notice and attention,
and if she has been made a pet of she will expect,
and deserve, to be allowed to have her puppies in her
mistress's dressing-room or some similar luxury; in
which she should be indulged. But once she has got
over the preliminaries, which I will presently describe,
she should, if possible, be left to herself as far as manual
assistance goes. Nature will bring the puppies into the
world far better than our clumsy hands, and the merest
little tyro of a year-old bitch generally possesses the
marvellous instinct teaching her to put her babies
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 10]</span>
comfortably afloat on the sea of life. The disregard of
a pet dog's feelings at which I have hinted may take
the form of sending a tiny bitch out to the stable to
pup under the care of a coachman or groom, and this
may or may not be cruel according to whether she has
any affection for the man or any knowledge of her
temporary quarters; personally, I should consider it
an unkind thing to do under any circumstances.</p>
<p>The beginning of the toy bitch's trouble is apparent
to her owner almost as soon as to herself. She pants,
and runs about excitedly, scratching here and there,
making wildly impossible and absurd nests for her
puppies in all kinds of unsuitable places. This may last
for days, but is generally only done for a few hours
before the puppies arrive, which, by the way, will be
nine weeks after mating. Some bitches shriek in a
very distressing way before they pup, and, as a rule,
food is refused, and the little mother that is to be is
often sick. No anxiety, however, need be felt. As
soon as she really means business she will quiet down
and settle in the place prepared for her, which by choice
should be a big, deep arm-chair, with a white blanket—any
old thing will do that is clean—folded in the seat
of it, and over this an old cotton sheet, likewise folded,
and so secured that the bitch cannot scrabble it up in
the foolish endeavour to improve human bed-making
which always possesses dogs, and, if indulged, lands
them in desperate discomfort on the top of a kind of
volcano of rags!</p>
<p>In nine cases out of ten a bitch chooses to <a name="pup" id="pup"></a>pup in
the night, and the hours often seem very long, while
she may lie and sleep in evident uneasiness, getting up
every now and then to make her bed, and panting as if
exhausted. It is quite safe to leave her in this condition
for twelve hours, but if by that time she seems to
be getting weaker and no puppies have come, the vet's
services should be requisitioned. Probably she will
not eat, but she may be offered a little cold milk. On
no account give her anything hot, externally or internally,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 11]</span>
and do not be tempted to do anything whatever
to her; the only interference which is ever excusable
is the application of a very little sweet oil or vaseline
externally, which she will lick off, and which does no
harm and no good, in my experience.</p>
<p>If help is called for at all, it must be the skilled aid
of a surgeon; any other is worse than useless.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i019.jpg" width="400" height="351" alt="" title="" >
<span class="caption">FRENCH TOY BULLDOG.
"La Reine des Roses," owned by Mrs. Townsend Green.</span>
</div>
<p>The puppies are born singly, and if a bitch has a
large litter they generally come in twos and threes,
with a very short interval between the items of each
brace or trio, and a long rest between the batches.
The first services the mother has to render her babies
are to free them from the bag of membranes in which
they are born, and to bite the cord which joins each
puppy to the afterbirth—a fleshy substance which comes
away with or shortly after it. All animals intensely
dislike being watched while they perform these operations;
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 12]</span>
but every bitch who is anything at all of a mother
will manage them perfectly. Next comes the licking
of the puppies, which have been enclosed each in its
membranous bag full of liquid (the <i>liquor amniæ</i>),
and are consequently dripping wet. Here is the crucial
test: a good mother licks her babies until they are
warm and dry, then feeds them, and snuggles down
with them into a contented heap of intense happiness.
A bad mother, on the contrary, leaves her poor infants
to dry as best they can, a process which invariably
ends in their developing a kind of infantile skin complaint,
which appears like a scab of cheesy substance
attached to the roots of the hair. It grows away with
the hair by degrees, and gets well without treatment,
but is ugly and disfiguring for the time being, and a sad
evidence of incompetence on the part of the mother.</p>
<p>When the family have settled down, and the puppies
are dry and comfortable, it is time to give them a little
attention. Have a saucer full of nice, warm milk-gruel,
made with patent groats as daintily as for an
invalid, and let the mother drink it, which she will
be sure to do with gratitude; she may have more
at intervals during the first day. Then roll away the
soiled folds of sheet from under her and the litter,
which can now be done without disturbing them, and
leave them cosily ensconced on the clean, warm blanket,
which has been all the time underneath.</p>
<p>A little later the mother may be put out into the
garden for a few minutes, not more than two or three;
but she must not be allowed to get chilled. After the
first day she should go out for a little walk morning
and afternoon, the time of her absence to be gradually
lengthened as the puppies grow older.</p>
<p>Until they begin to crawl, valuable toy puppies are
much safer and better upstairs in a big chair as described,
or in a flat basket with a folded blanket at the bottom
set upon the chair, than they can possibly be in any
stable or in the kitchen premises, for, no matter how
warm, such places are draughty too. There is absolutely
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 13]</span>
nothing about a litter of little toys, if healthy,
to be in the least offensive anywhere, and a good mother
will keep them in the very pink of perfection for nearly
a month under such circumstances.</p>
<p>Where a poor or weakly mother is concerned, and
where the puppies are restless, squall, and seem damp
and comfortless, it is another matter. By constant
attention as to the changing of the bed, partial hand-feeding
from a small old silver spoon with cream and
hot water, and Plasmon or Lactol, half and half (better
than milk, though <i>warm</i> milk will do), and a great deal
of patience, the mother may be helped out and the
puppies saved; but where they are not valuable it is
better to destroy all but one or two; and where they are
so, a good foster-mother offers them by far the best
chance of life and health. There are people who make
it their business to supply fosters, and one of these
should be applied to as soon as possible; taking pains
to ensure, by careful examination on arrival, that the
stranger has no skin disease and is free from objectionable
insects.</p>
<p>Small toy bitches sometimes have but little milk at
first, but by giving warm food only for the first few
days, and plenty of milk to drink, it generally comes all
right, and so long as the pups seem fairly content, all is
well; the flow is sure to increase. Both before and
after pupping there is generally a little diarrhœa, which
is of no consequence; but if it goes on beyond the second
day after pupping, get the bitch on to her usual diet,
with a little cold milk to drink, and stop all sloppy
foods. Oatmeal, as gruel or otherwise, should never be
given after the second day. A <a name="discharge" id="discharge"></a>discharge, of mucus
mixed with blood, is usual after pupping, and may
continue for several weeks in gradually lessening amount.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 14]</span>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2>
<p class="center">ON REARING PUPS</p>
<p>An indispensable adjunct in the rearing of valuable toy
puppies, which, as a general rule, do far better in the
<a name="house" id="house"></a>house than in any stable or out-of-door premises, is one
of Spratt's or Boulton and Paul's little houses and runs.
As personal and vicarious experiences are all that any
writer can adduce to support theory, I may be allowed to
describe the procedure which has been found successful
with my own puppies—born, bred, and reared in house
and garden as they are.</p>
<p>Directly they leave the basket of their infancy (in
which, <i>par parenthèse</i>, I must say, I think them more
delightful, helpless little soft morsels, than even when
they begin to run about, show intelligence, and need
feeding) they are introduced to one of these useful
abodes, comprising a sleeping house, provided with a
cosy blanket, freely washable and often changed, and a
little wired-in run about 4 ft. by 2 ft. The bigger this
the better, of course; and if it has a floor, as some
have, pierced with small holes and draining into a
removable tray to be kept full of earth, or sawdust, it
will be well. Mine is a humbler affair, floorless, and
stands on a piece of oilcloth, covered with a large sheet
of brown paper, which can be daily renewed; yet it
answers its purpose very well. In this, with outings
two or three times a day, for variety, the puppies live
until they are seven weeks old; the mother, loose about
the house, visiting them at her inclination and sleeping
with them. At between <a name="rear" id="rear"></a>three and four weeks old they
must be taught to lap, which is easy enough with some
pups and difficult with others. Warm, boiled milk
should be the only addition to what the mother gives
them until they are over a month old: it is a mistake
to hurry puppies on to patent foods, bread and milk,
and the like. Do not let them have a saucer and upset
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 15]</span>
it, tumbling into it and getting themselves in a mess,
to dry all sour and disagreeable, but hold their little
heads one by one as they lap, for they <i>will</i> nod into the
saucer and send the milk flying.</p>
<p>As soon as the puppies are strong on their legs, they
need more exercise and fun than the run can allow
them, and now is the time to take them off the carpets,
which they will never respect in after life if they have
been allowed to treat them evilly as elderly babies. It
is not a bad plan to let them live in the kitchen from
this time forth, various things being provisional. One
is, that the presiding genius will see to their little meals
under your supervision; that is, you feed them four
times a day, and she or he undertakes to see that no
one else does so. Another, that the kitchen opens into
the, or a, garden, and that the puppies can run there
in the sunshine, in warm weather, and so insensibly
learn manners; yet another, that it is a warm, draughtless
place, with a nice corner for their sleeping basket.
Some folks, whose lower regions do not answer this
description, or whose servants are not amenable, may
have an occupied stable at command, where the puppies
can have a loose box or stall. This plan I do <i>not</i> recommend,
for toy pups do far better in constant human
companionship; but it, or the alternative one of
keeping them in a room with an oilcloth floor, are all
that offer themselves, failing the desirable kitchen. I
have known toy pups do splendidly in a sunny little
room, floored with cork carpet, provided with cosy
sleeping boxes, and opening into a terrace-walk, where
on all fine and sunny days they were allowed to play;
but they were not too much left to themselves, and
their apartment was carefully looked after, and brush
and sawdust-pan kept going, just as, in my kitchen, the
servants hasten to remove any unbecoming traces of
their presence. This period, while toy pups are too
young to be trained, too old for their mother to clean
them up, and also so young as to require warmth and
constant watching, is the troublesome one in their lives
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 16]</span>
and the one in which so many of them die. Neglect,
or dirty surroundings, are fatal to these little delicate
atoms, which really call for the same attention we
should give a baby; monotony—being kept shut up in
one small room for hours or days—and lack of fresh air,
carry off many; while sour milk, meals left about in
odds and ends, irregular feeding, and lying to sleep in
draughts, are all elements of danger. We want to give
them warmth and dryness, without stuffiness and overheating;
we want to give them sweet, tempting, <i>clean</i>
little meals, regularly, four times a day, just as much
as they can eat eagerly and no more; we want to give
them a cosy day-bed to go to sleep whenever they feel
inclined—which will be often—and, lastly, to let them
have all the fresh air and out-of-door sunshine they
can get without fear of chill. Thus it is that summer
puppies, born in the spring, with all the best weather
before them, do so much better than those which
have the critical teething period to pass through in
winter time.</p>
<p>A toy puppy grows more quickly than, for instance,
a terrier, and, of course, is adult far sooner than a
big dog; the short-haired varieties, again, coming to
maturity sooner than the long-coated ones. A Yorkshire
terrier is adult at a year, but does not get his full
beauty of coat until he is two years old, or thereabouts.
A toy Schipperke is, so to speak, grown-up at ten or
eleven months, but goes on thickening and improving
in shape, and probably increasing and hardening in
coat for another year at least. A Pom's jacket gets
grander at each moult until he is three years old. As
a general rule it may be laid down that the dog is a
puppy no longer at ten months, when his teething is
almost always entirely completed. This same teething
is a tiresome process, comprising the change of the first
set of wee ivories for the permanent forty-two which
are to carry the owner through life. Nearly every
puppy suffers more or less in the process, some from
fits, some from skin irritation, some from colds in the
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 17]</span>
head and eyes, some from general feverishness; but the
troubles are ephemeral, and generally subside between
whiles, returning as each big tooth is cut. What
makes the worst trouble is when the first teeth are
severally not shed, but remain <i>in situ</i>, a second tooth
forcing itself up at one side of the lingering intruder.
This condition is pretty sure to mean teething fits, of
which more anon. <a name="Dentition" id="Dentition"></a>Dentition begins about the fourth
month, and once safely over, the dog may be considered
well reared.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i025.jpg" width="400" height="342" alt="" title="">
<span class="caption">POMERANIAN PUPPY. At the ugly age.</span>
</div>
<p>Distemper, that is, the two diseases usually so described,
are a bugbear, but it is enough to say that no
puppy ought to have them. If he does, it is because
some one has allowed him to get the contagion, by
accident or carelessness; left to himself, he could not
indulge in it, for it is not, cannot be, spontaneous.</p>
<p>Small skin troubles, such as puppy pox, in which
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 18]</span>
the skin in the under parts of the body is red, and
small pustules form and suppurate, after the manner of
chicken pox—though puppy pox is not catching—often
affect the strongest puppies; and a pup which "teethes
with a rash" is generally thought by breeders to be
one which, if in the way of contagion, will not take
"distemper" very badly, if at all, though whether there
is any foundation for this opinion I cannot undertake
to say. Personally, my puppies never have distemper,
simply because they never have a chance; but where
other dogs from the house are going to and fro to
shows they are almost certain, sooner or later, to bring
it home to the babies. Some day we shall have a
crusade for stamping these horrible diseases out, or discover
prophylactics, no doubt; at present they must be
looked upon as ill-luck which <i>may</i> never come our way.
The <a name="training" id="training"></a>training of puppies to the house is a task which is
most easily accomplished by bringing them in from the
kitchens, or wherever they live in a general way, to some
sitting-room for a short time daily, and by degrees
teaching them that each offence is instantly followed
by dismissal to the garden, or out of doors. Beating
little dogs is useless and unkind, but a mild scolding
may be given and the infant be carried out by the scruff
of its neck. The great thing is to make this sequel
invariable, as dogs have a great sense of justice, and
soon learn that they have done wrong in this case;
whereas, if they are allowed to do a thing three times
and beaten for it on the fourth occasion they quite fail
to understand the reason of the rebuke.</p>
<p>Some breeds of toys are much easier to teach than
others; personally, I have found Poms comparatively
difficult dogs to train to the house, and black-and-tan
terriers are seldom altogether reliable; while fawn pugs
are generally averse to going out of doors in wet or very
cold weather; but patience and perseverance will do it
in almost all cases. On the other hand, some little dogs
take to the house at once, and give no trouble at all from
the very first. A dog just off a journey, or strange to a
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 19]</span>
place, is not generally well-behaved just at first, so that
the buyer of a puppy, warranted trained, ought to give
it a little law before deciding that its education is not
properly complete. I am sometimes asked if there
is not some magical preparation which cures dogs of
untidy habits, but am compelled to own that, in
the present state of our knowledge, such a thing not
only does not exist, but does not seem likely to be
discovered! Small puppies, under three or five months,
are physically incapable of resisting any impulse, therefore
it is quite useless to attempt to train them too
soon. Comparison between the sexes in this matter is
sometimes made; some preferring males as house dogs,
and others females. I fancy there is not the least difference,
and certainly, given a promising and intelligent
individual, a little boy pup is as easy to teach manners
to as a little girl, and <i>per contra</i>. Much depends upon
character; here and there we find some toy dogs which
have mean, cringing spirits, and these are generally the
ones which won't go out in rain. They may be vulgarly
described as "sneaks," and I would not keep a dog
of this description. Mere timidity is a different thing
altogether, and can be eradicated by kindness and
judicious petting. The "sneak" is no companion, and
should not be bred from. It will not follow well out
of doors, is seldom a good mother, and is apt to transmit
its faults of disposition to its offspring.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2>
<p class="center">ON FEEDING TOYS</p>
<p>In feeding toys, variety is essential, and it is also desirable
to give them food which will nourish and support
the constitution without fattening them unduly, or
heating the blood. It is far better to give a toy a very
small dinner, as far as bulk is concerned, of roast meat
cut up; or a little boiled mutton and rice; or a bit of
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 20]</span>
cutlet minced, than to give a much larger dinner of rice
and biscuit flooded with milk or soup. Big, sloppy
meals are most undesirable, and the last meal at night,
above all, should be dry. Half a penny sponge cake
makes an excellent supper for a toy dog, or a couple of
Osborne biscuits. Toy dogs should never be given any
biscuit containing oatmeal or Indian corn meal, or
peameal. These two are much used in dog-biscuit
making, on account of their cheapness, and they are both
too heating for toy dogs, and, in quantity, indigestible,
although oatmeal is occasionally valuable, as in the form
of groats, to be made into milk gruel and given to bitches
after confinement. Rice, well boiled, is used as a staple,
to give bulk to meals, by all breeders of Yorkshire
terriers, and it is a valuable food, for this purpose, for it
does not fatten, and is as easily digested as any cereal
can be. Although I advocate small, dry meals as against
large, sloppy ones, I do not mean to say that a certain
amount of bulk is not desirable—it is, for without it
there would not be the natural stimulus of distension
to the intestinal canal. But although the dog has a
very large gullet and can swallow, and wishes to swallow,
very large quantities as compared to its size, its stomach
is not so very large in proportion, and the <i>juste milieu</i>—enough
and not too much—is easy to ascertain. Eating
between meals is quite as bad for dogs as for babies.
They should be fed regularly, and restrained from picking
up bits out of doors—which may be poisoned, and are
sure to be unwholesome. <a name="scavenging" id="scavenging"></a>Many dogs have a shocking
habit of scavenging, which often means that they are
anæmic and harbour worms; if a tonic and worm dose
does not mend matters, a muzzle will.</p>
<p>A toy dog of 5 lbs. or 6 lbs., which has a biscuit at
breakfast time, a varied and tempting meal of meat or
fish at lunch, and a piece of stale sponge cake in the
evening, is being reasonably fed, and should have a
healthy appetite. It is a mistake to feed only once a
day, as such treatment is only suitable for dogs so far
in a state of nature that they can gorge themselves to
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 21]</span>
their fullest and sleep for hours afterwards; and then
take hard exercise.</p>
<p>It is quite a modern theory that the sins formerly
laid to the charge of meat are all unproven, but it is a
perfectly just one. Not only do skin complaints arise
from malnutrition, or from improper feeding, or a too
large amount of starchy food, but a cure for them is
frequently found in changing the diet to one of raw
or underdone <i><a name="meat" id="meat"></a>meat only</i>. This is modern veterinary
practice, as set forth by the cleverest man of the day—Mr.
Sewell—and others whose ability is unquestioned;
in the olden times the vet's invariable dictum, whether
he understood the case or not—and generally he was
in dense ignorance as to whether mange, eczema, or
erythema was the trouble—was "No meat!" This
idea, like others primarily due to ignorance, dies hard,
and these are still to be found people who, ignoring the
way a dog's teeth are formed, pronounce his proper
diet to be farinaceous, notwithstanding the fact that
he was created among the carnivora. Of course, we
cannot keep a house pet, altered by centuries of evolution,
just as Nature kept him, on raw flesh—for one
thing, because he is not living the same sort of life;
but the conditions are not so different as to have turned
a flesh-eating animal into a graminivorous one.</p>
<p>I write, as I feel, strongly on this subject; for many
a time have I been vexed to see how obstinacy in compelling
a dog to live on utterly unnatural food, has
made a miserable creature of one that would have been
happy, properly fed; and the same applies to many a
litter of puppies.</p>
<p>It has long been a common habit to feed puppies on
sloppy, farinaceous food, even up to the time when they
are well on in getting their permanent teeth; if this is a
mistake with larger dogs, it is a grievous folly with toys.
People feed their pups four or five times a day on watery
bread and milk, Indian corn meal and oatmeal, and
powdered biscuit, all slopped with milk; they may even
leave it about all day. Some of the puppies, the greedy
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 22]</span>
ones to wit, nearly burst themselves, whereupon Nature
rebels and relieves the pressure by means of diarrhœa;
others, dainty feeders, are sickened after one or two
doses, and can hardly be got to feed at all. They loathe
their food, and getting them on is a constant worry;
presently they begin to be often sick (this is the stomach's
protest against being constantly distended with liquid
food) and if they have, as most puppies have, the ova
of worms inside them, these are immensely encouraged
to develop, and lose no time in doing so. A nice preparation
for the critical period of teething!</p>
<p>If those who find toy puppies difficult to rear thus,
would forsake slops and feed them rationally, they
would, I think, share the success of a number of breeders,
whose toys are noted for their health and beauty,
and whose methods I rely upon to back up my contention.
Up to the time the puppy can use its first
teeth, give it nothing but <a name="milk" id="milk"></a>milk, pure, sweet, fresh, and
<i>warm</i> mixed with plasmon or any other good dried milk
powder; cold milk will give the baby colic. Teach it
to lap from a saucer of warm milk; either good cow's
milk, if you can rely on getting it free from boracic
acid; pure cream and hot water to the thickness of
milk; goat's milk, best of all; or, in the last resource,
condensed milk, thinned with hot water.</p>
<p>The latter must be the kind which is not over-sweetened,
and <i>not</i> the kind which has had the cream
separated. Up to six weeks I find my puppies do best on
milk only; when their little teeth are through, and their
mother forsakes them, get them on to solids. A puppy
loves to gnaw a lump of stalish sponge cake, or suck a
rusk; it comforts him to use his sharp little needlepoints—feeds
and amuses him at once. Let him then
have milk for breakfast and tea; an Osborne biscuit
broken up, a rusk of the kind known as "tops and
bottoms," just softened with a little drop of milk, not
made into a slop, or a bit of sponge cake, for his dinner
and supper. At four weeks he may have a little minced
chicken or boiled fish for dinner, or shredded boiled
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 23]</span>
mutton; at two months he may be fed like his elders,
but with no big lumps of meat. All meat given to
puppies should be cut up finely, until they are six
months old. As to <a name="bones" id="bones"></a>bones, a big bone is good for a
puppy to suck and gnaw; but he must not have any
kind of bone which he can swallow in whole or part.
For grown-up toys any bones, but those of chicken,
game, and fish, are a permissible treat, one at a time,
and that time at least a week from the next or the last.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2>
<p class="center">EXHIBITING AND PREPARING FOR EXHIBITION.</p>
<p>Although the profits to be obtained from exhibiting
are of a secondary nature, and relative simply to the
influence exercised on sales and the way in which
showing them brings dogs into public notice, it is well
worth the while of the dog owner who has a really
good little toy to exhibit it sometimes for the fun of
the thing. At a show one can learn more about breeds
and points, and all the little details which interest
doggy folk, than is possible otherwise; compare notes
with other owners, and obtain many useful hints. I
am sorry to say that we can also see a good deal going
on which would be well suppressed, and get glimpses
of the less attractive side of human nature which keen
competition and rivalry are apt to call forth, and which
the socialistic mixture of all classes composing "the
dog fancy" encourages. "<a name="Faking" id="Faking"></a>Faking"—dyeing pale tan
bright, pulling out coat, or tweaking white hairs, dusting
disguising powder into the stained jackets of white
dogs, training ears to fall or stand erect (temporarily)
in the desired way, with other little improvements,
such as clipping the hair from the edges of Poms' ears
and from their paws and legs, are all practices nobody
would own to, but which nevertheless exist; while even
perfectly honest owners are able to bring their dogs
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 24]</span>
to the front by legitimate methods which are unknown
to the novice, and which she can learn from the initiated.
As to the "cruelty" of showing, which Ouida so strongly
deprecates, a word may be said. It is certainly not kind
to send a little petted toy, accustomed to regular ways
and the constant society of its owners to a show "on
its own," unattended, and with no care but such as the
show officials may feel disposed to bestow upon it—often
of a perfunctory character. On the other hand,
if its owner takes it to the show, establishes it in its pen,
visits it from time to time, feeds it, and takes it out of
the show at evening time to spend the night with her,
as can always be arranged, I fail to see the slightest
cruelty in the matter—in fact, many dogs enjoy being
exhibited, and it is quite the exception to see a melancholy
face in the rows of pens devoted to the well-cared-for
toy section.</p>
<p>The first thing to be thought of where exhibiting is
contemplated is getting the dog, or dogs, up to their
very best form. A toy which is properly looked after at
home ought to be always, more or less, in show condition,
that is, as far as Nature's arrangements for the
shedding of coat, etc., permit; but a little extra care for
a few weeks before a show is desirable. Short-coated
dogs, which, <i>par parenthèse</i>, should never be washed at
all if it can be helped, must certainly not be washed
for at least a fortnight beforehand, but the least possible
trace of vaseline or cocoa-nut oil may be applied
to their jackets and polished off with a clean handkerchief;
while brushing and hand-rubbing the right way
of the hair get up a beautiful gloss and sheen upon
their coat, and a little milk to drink daily helps this
effect. Eyes should be washed, and if noses are, as
some, unfortunately, are too prone to be, dry, a little
vaseline well rubbed in with the finger twice a day
will remedy the defect.</p>
<p>Long-coated dogs, of course, need much more
attention. They must have extra combing and brushing,
and, if dirty or flat in coat, but not otherwise,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 25]</span>
should receive a tub about forty-eight hours before appearing
in the ring. For this, use <i>soft</i>, warm water,
with, in the case of Poms, whose jackets ought to stand
out well, a teaspoonful of powdered borax and a quarter
of an ounce of dissolved gelatine to each two quarts of
water. The soap used should be carefully chosen, and
of the best—Vinolia or E. Cook & Son's Toilet Soap for
choice; common soaps are most unsuitable. Many
people also use and much like this firm's Improved Dog
Soap. These stiff, stand-out coats are encouraged by
habitually brushing the wrong way of the hair, and this
is advisable, too, for the manes of Schipperkes. Flat-coated
dogs, like Yorkshires and toy spaniels, often
spend their lives, the former especially, in the intervals
of shows, like summer fire-irons, "in grease"—that is,
their coats saturated with oil. To such an extent as
this, the preparation may be left to the professional
exhibitor (with whom, it is as well to remark, few inexperienced
amateurs have much chance, as far as the
Yorkshire terrier is concerned); but a little cocoa-nut
oil, with the merest trace of cantharides, well rubbed into
the roots of the hair for some weeks beforehand, encourages
the coat to look its best. Great care is needful
in washing white dogs, and only the best of soap should
be used; also soft water, with a little borax in it, and a
squeeze of a blue-bag in the rinsing-water, to prevent
the hair from showing a yellow tinge. Yorkshire
terriers must not be rubbed up and about anyhow
in their bath; neither must Maltese nor toy spaniels;
the hair so carefully kept parted down the middle of
the back in the two former breeds must be sponged
downwards from the parting, while hot towels and
warmed, soft brushes should be used for drying, in
such a way as to preserve the habit of growth, which
is such a point in these dogs. Rubbing "all over"
also encourages curliness—a fatal fault in the breeds
mentioned—and this is an additional reason for care.
In washing dogs great pains should be taken to dry
the insides of the ears thoroughly, and the bath, which
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 26]</span>
most dogs so detest, will be robbed of half its terrors
if the head is not soaped or soused; it can be effectually
washed with a sponge, thus avoiding the miseries of
soap in nose and eyes. <a name="Washing" id="Washing"></a>Washing, however, as an
habitual thing, is most injurious to coat and skin, ruins
the colour of black dogs, and should never be made a
practice. Daily grooming with brush and comb will
keep any properly-fed dog perfectly sweet and clean.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i034.jpg" width="400" height="387" alt="" title="" >
<span class="caption">BLACK PUG. "Fiji," owned by Miss Hyde.</span>
</div>
<p><a name="Poodles" id="Poodles"></a>Poodles are, perhaps, as troublesome to prepare for
show as any dogs. There are, as yet, no corded toy
poodles to speak of, but the curly toys are very delightful
little dogs, deserving much more than their present
popularity. Their shaving or clipping is, of course, an
ever-recurring task, which must at no time be neglected,
and is necessary once a month; but, after the first time
or two, it is not at all difficult to manage. The shaved
parts should be gone over, the dog having been washed
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 27]</span>
the day before, with one of Spratt's Patent Poodle
Clippers, a little machine exactly like a small horse-clipper,
always working against the trend of the hair
from the tail along the back to the middle of the body,
and from the feet upwards. A pair of scissors, with
curved-up points, will be needed for the face and toes,
which are the most troublesome parts to do; but actual
shaving with a razor is only done as a finishing touch
just before a show. It makes the skin rather tender
and is the one part of the toilet, not needful for everyday
attire, which calls for expert aid. After clipping,
the skin should be well rubbed with a very little white
vaseline oil, which brings up a nice gloss and prevents
the dog from taking cold. There are various professional
poodle clippers in London, among them a lady, who will
visit dogs at their own homes for the modest charge
of five shillings; but country exhibitors are generally
obliged to resort to home talent for the operation.</p>
<p>The long hair is now fashionably arranged in a fluff,
teased out with a comb, and well brushed until it stands
out; the forelock is tied up on the top of the head
with a big satin bow, and <i>voilà, la toilette de monsieur
est fini</i>!—the indispensable bracelet and smart collar
being alone wanting.</p>
<p><a name="Entering" id="Entering"></a>Entering dogs for a show is a simple enough matter.
Having ascertained what show you intend to patronise,
send a card to the secretary, whose address will be
found with the advertisements of the show in the doggy
papers, asking for a schedule. On receiving it, read the
rules carefully, and also the matter relating to specials,
and enter the dog according to the form enclosed; if the
show is held under Kennel Club rules, exhibits must
first be registered with that body. If merely under
Kennel Club licence, this is unnecessary. Occasionally,
the reply to, or acknowledgement of, such registration,
which is made on a form always sent with schedules and
stud entry forms, and accompanied by an indispensable
half-crown, is so much delayed that the novice-exhibitor
trembles with fear lest her exhibit should be disqualified;
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 28]</span>
but such terrors are groundless—so long as the entry
has been sent in before the date of the show, all will be
well.</p>
<p>The next question is the burning one of escort. Personally
I should not like to send little toy dogs to a
show without some trusted attendant, and I cannot,
therefore, advise anyone else to do otherwise.</p>
<p>Taking them oneself, with maid or man in reserve
to leave in charge, is the most pleasant way, for all
parties, of arranging matters, and the <a name="paraphernalia" id="paraphernalia"></a>paraphernalia
accompanying is somewhat as follows:—</p>
<blockquote><p>A warm and comfortable travelling basket for each dog—preferably
a little house in which it can sleep at night.</p>
<p>A campstool for the attendant. Standing about at shows
is killing work, and chairs are not always obtainable.</p>
<p>Coats for the dogs if the weather is at all cold, for exhibition
buildings are almost invariably draughty. The
Petanelle coats (sold by Spratt's), of French pattern, with
storm collars, are specially warm and smart, and are also
aseptic, and the Petanelle cushions are charming in every
way.</p>
<p>Some suitable food. Toy dogs will seldom eat what the
show authorities provide, and are often too excited to take
anything but what is specially dainty. A lunch-basket tin
of small pieces of chicken or meat, ready cut up, with the
dog's own little plate, will be found useful. Milk at shows
is not always reliable, and if any is wanted it should be
taken in a bottle, especially for litters.</p>
<p>A brush and comb. A warm, large shawl. I say nothing
about the millinery with which people often hang their pens,
the satin cushions, etc., with which I can but say the dogs
are often made to look extremely silly, but unless there is
any rule in the schedule to the contrary, exhibitors are at
liberty to provide anything which appeals to their taste in
this line. The shawl, or blanket, is often useful for draping
round wire pens to keep away draughts, and as such things
cannot be got without much trouble once the show has
begun, it is as well to be provided beforehand.</p></blockquote>
<p>Taking dogs out of the show at night can always
be managed, usually on payment of a deposit; and the
trouble is quite worth while, for fatal colds are apt to
be the result of leaving delicate toys to shift for themselves
in the colder hours of dark and dawn.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 29]</span>
<p>Leading into the ring is, of course, the crux of the
exhibitor's anxiety, for now comes the critical moment—will
the dog show or not? Some dogs are born
showers—brisk up, look smart and knowing, accept
the judge's overtures graciously, and generally exhibit
themselves to the best advantage. Others are variable,
and cannot be depended upon; will sometimes show
well, and at other times—if they are a little out of
sorts, for instance, or do not like the look of their
rivals in the ring—will not do themselves justice.
Others, again, obstinately, lower tail and ears, crouch
and cringe, or, worst of all, roll over on their backs.
If a dog, after several attempts at showing him, persists
in such conduct, it is generally best to give him up
as far as exhibition is concerned. But a good deal
may be done beforehand to teach little dogs how to
show themselves. They may be made accustomed to
being led about in a chain, and encouraged to strain
from the collar after a ball, etc. Also, they should be
taught to receive attention from strangers affably.</p>
<p><a name="etiquette" id="etiquette"></a>Just one word as to the exhibitor's own conduct in
the ring may not be amiss. Sometimes old hands at
showing are by no means polite to new-comers, sad to
say, and will very probably endeavour to screen the
novice, if good enough to be a rival, from the judge's
eye, by thrusting themselves and their exhibits forward;
while, terrible to relate, such incidents as a sly poke
with the foot, administered to a rival's <a name="shy_dog" id="shy_dog"></a>shy dog, or the
intentional treading on a toe, are not altogether unheard
of. The novice should keep her dog well to the fore,
disregard what other exhibitors are saying or doing, so
far as strict politeness and good feeling allow, and,
while not obtruding her exhibit on the judge's eye,
try to get him to notice it in all legitimate ways.</p>
<p>Speaking to a judge in the ring, and while acting,
is a great breach of etiquette, unless some question
is asked by him, which should be replied to audibly;
but most judges are quite willing to give reasons for
their decision, or a candid opinion, if asked to do so when
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 30]</span>
the judging is over. It is, of course, needless to warn
gentlewomen against any show of feeling at being
overlooked, etc.; but the fact that lamentable exhibitions
of disappointment do occasionally take place is
one not to be denied, while, of course, strict justice is
occasionally lacking. Still, taking things for all in
all, a very little experience will enable the novice to
take her proper place in the show world, where she will
be sure to meet with much kindness and unselfish help—such,
at least, is my experience; while exhibiting adds
a zest to dog owning unobtainable by any other means.</p>
<p>The <a name="principal" id="principal"></a>principal shows where toy dogs are catered for
are the Kennel Club Show, in October; the Toy Dog
Shows and Cruft's, generally held in February, at
the Agricultural Hall; with the shows arranged by
the Ladies' Kennel Association, the best of which, from
a toy owner's point of view, usually takes place in the
summer, and with the provincial fixtures, such as
Birmingham, Manchester, and Bristol, and numerous
licence shows in all parts of the country, at all of which
there is generally a fair classification for toys. All
shows may be found advertised in the <i>Illustrated Kennel
News</i> and other dog papers.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2>
<p class="center"><a name="THE_CHOICE_OF_BREEDS" id="THE_CHOICE_OF_BREEDS"></a>THE CHOICE OF BREEDS</p>
<p>The choice of a breed to take up is generally dictated
by personal preference, and fashion has a large spoke
in the wheel. Just at present, the fashionable breeds
among toys are certainly Pomeranians, or Spitz toys—commonly
known as "Poms," Japanese spaniels,
Pekingese or Chinese spaniels—sometimes called Chinese
pugs, toy bulldogs, and Griffons Bruxellois. Of the
choice of a breed for profit I have spoken before, and
will now consider the question from the point of view
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 31]</span>
of a lonely dame seeking a pet, or pets, and having no
preconceived prejudices.</p>
<p>The <a name="Pom" id="Pom"></a>Pom, then, is a little dog, hard to get good, but
really valuable when so secured. A good toy Pom
means one as small as possible, certainly under 8 lbs.,
and preferably under 6 lbs., not long-legged and weedy,
but short-backed and compact; with tiny erect ears, a
fine-pointed muzzle, small dark eyes, tail—or plume,
as it should be called—well over the exact median line
of the back; small, fine, and delicate legs and feet,
covered with short hair; and last, but far from least, a
profuse coat standing out well all over the body, and
amplified about the neck with the characteristic frill,
and at the backs of the hind legs with the crinière.
Bright brown and chocolate are very much more
common than they were a year or two ago, when either
was scarce and much desired, but blacks are always
favourites. Black-pointed sables (wolf-coloured Poms)
seldom have good stiff coats, and, like the beautiful
orange sables, are apt to be flat-coated, thus are not so
popular; while parti-coloured dogs depend for attraction
upon their quality otherwise. Blues, which, unless large,
generally have hairless ears, are very charming, and carry
excellent coats, but are comparatively seldom seen. The
usual faults of toy Poms are "apple-headedness"—a
term which explains itself—scarcity of coat, coarseness
in head or leg, tails badly carried, big ears, or protuberant
eyes, legginess and weediness, or curliness. A wave in
the coat spoils some from a show point of view, and
though washing with borax and water, and combing
out with a comb dipped in a weak solution of gelatine,
will temporarily remedy the defect, it spoils the desirable
bushy look of a Pom to a great extent.</p>
<p>Poms are capital little companions, faithful, exceedingly
sharp and intelligent, and generally devoted to
one person; they are good with children if brought up
with them; but they are fussy and excitable little
things, bark a great deal, and have nerves. I do not
consider the character some people give them of snappishness
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 32]</span>
at all justified by facts; but here and there
a sharp-tempered Pom may be found. Their quality of
disdain towards strangers is one which ought to be
considered a virtue in all pet dogs. They are not of the
easiest dogs to train to the house, especially when kept
in numbers, and are not always reliable in this way,
mainly on account of their quick, nervous disposition;
but for cleverness, affection, and beauty, they have
few, if any, equals among toy dogs, and they are never
likely to lose their popularity; a really good toy Pom is
always immensely admired and courted wherever it is
taken. Puppies are not now so easily saleable at high
prices as was formerly the case, as so many people took
them up that they have become plentiful: and it is not
worth while to breed second-raters; but a good Pom
will still sell.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i041.jpg" width="400" height="495" alt="" title="">
<span class="caption">SCHIPPERKE. "Fandango," owned by Dr. Freeman.</span>
</div>
<p>Next to toy Poms I will mention toy <a name="Schipperkes" id="Schipperkes"></a>Schipperkes,
because, though they are not as yet so fashionable,
and probably never will be, they resemble Poms in many
ways. As house dogs they are eminently desirable,
wonderfully clean and well-mannered, and like the
Pom in cleverness and fidelity to one person, while they
are much hardier and easier to rear and keep in good
condition. They are not at all nervous dogs; but
wildly full of life and greedy for exercise; their incessant
activity vying with that of the merry little Spitz.
They are decidedly "barky" and exceedingly inquisitive,
good travellers, and dogs which settle themselves
down anywhere, and are content so long as they are
with the favourite "human" they specially possess.
Schipperkes are extremely heavy dogs for their size,
and quite a wee one will weigh four times as much as a
Pom which hardly looks smaller. Both breeds require
a meat diet and plenty of good food, which they work
off by their active ways; but the bulk of the Schip's
meals should be larger. As a rule, Schips are very
good-tempered dogs, and, like Poms, sharp followers
at heel. They are, however, pugnacious little things,
and have only the grand forbearance of bigger dogs
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 33]</span>
to thank for the prevention of many a tragedy due
to uppish self-assertion. Black is their colour, and
taillessness their most intimate quality; some, we are
told, are born tailless, most—are not! Brown and
fawn Schips are common enough in Belgium, the
home of the race; and we have now not infrequently
classes for them over here; while whites, which are
really fawns, exist, occurring in litters now and then
from a throwing back to some distant ancestor, and are
really pretty dogs, though I confess the piquancy and
charm of the blacks, with their sharply-pricked, thin
ears, their rounded-off flank, hard, shiny coats, and
dense masses of mane and <i>culotte</i>, the Schip's distinctive
points, are to me lost in an "off-coloured" dog. Their
faults, as toys, are soft, silky coats, toyish or apple or
badly-shaped heads (that universal stumbling block),
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 34]</span>
"Pommy," quality of coat (there is no blemish on a
Schip's escutcheon greater than a putative cross with
a Pom), white hairs or markings, ears which are rounded
at the tip instead of pointed, too big, or badly carried,
short faces, unlevel jaws, spread feet, crooked or distorted
legs, and long backs. The whole appearance
of the dog should be very smart and cobby, intensely
alert, and altogether clean and well put together,
qualities difficult to describe, but which "<i>sautent aux
yeux</i>."</p>
<p><a name="Toy_bulldogs" id="Toy_bulldogs"></a>Toy bulldogs are yearly becoming more popular.
They are absolutely ideal dogs as to temper and all the
other qualities necessary for a pet and companion, and
almost uncannily intelligent, but alas! they are delicate
beyond denying. They are hard to breed, and
hard to rear; few of the bitches are good mothers,
while their babies have little stamina; they are shy
breeders moreover, and altogether need incessant care
and watchfulness. If they can have this, well and
good, and their puppies will sell immediately; so that,
as a source of profit, they may be recommended, always
provided luck and a capacity for taking much well-directed
pains are on the owner's side. The prices
obtained for these dogs, if really small and of good
strain, are somewhat high for the ordinary amateur,
while a small bulldog bred from bigger ones, such as
can be most cheaply obtained, in the way of a toy, is
but a poor speculation, since her first litter will probably
kill her. The limit of weight at which a toy bulldog ends
and the bulldog proper begins, has been matter of controversy,
and the original limit of some 20 lbs. was found
to present so many difficulties that many breeders
desired to have it altered. An equal, or even greater,
amount of discussion raged round the question of drop,
rose, or <a name="batears" id="batears"></a>bat ears—that is, of upright or falling ones.
Finally the sensible decision of having two clubs, one for
toys in all respects like the large English bulldogs, and
one for dogs of French origin, though now of English
breeding, with upright or "bat" ears, to be called
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 35]</span>
French toy bulldogs, was arrived at. The English type
is now known as the Miniature Bulldog.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i044.jpg" width="400" height="317" alt="" title="">
<span class="caption">PEKINGESE. "Foo-Kwai of Newnham," owned by Mrs. W. H. Herbert.</span>
</div>
<p><a name="Japanese_spaniels" id="Japanese_spaniels"></a>Japanese spaniels are quite one of the <i>derniers cris</i>
of fashion.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> With them I include Pekingese, as although
the latter are hardier dogs altogether, and easier to
manage, they are also Eastern, so making things even.
Japs are pretty little dogs, of average intelligence and
affection, if not quite equal in these respects to the
first two breeds discussed. Up to the present "distemper"
has been their chief scourge, and keeping
them in numbers seems to be an invariable invitation
for a visit from some pest, to the contagion of all which
they seem peculiarly susceptible. Griffon breeders say
that if a Griffon feels ill it dies, and this is in some
measure applicable to Japs also. There is no reason
why it should be so, for in their native country they
are hardy enough, and the cause is traceable to inbreeding,
occasioned by the difficulties put in the way of
their importation both by the Japanese authorities and
our own, and resorted to with the idea of keeping them
small; the delicacy caused by the hardships of the
voyage, which they stood very badly; to the pioneers
of the race over here, and the rush for small sires, often
too much used, and over shown. If breeders would
buy young, unrelated puppies, feed them on meat,
bring them up healthily, and so found fresh strains, this
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 36]</span>
delicacy could surely be overcome with comparative
ease. In appearance, Japs are extremely fascinating.
Their colours are black and white, red and white, and
yellow or lemon and white—the latter two combinations
being the rarest; their coloured ears, like butterfly
wings, the short-faced head between forming the
body, their heavily fringed feet, and their plumed tail
making up a charming and piquant <i>tout ensemble</i>. They
are frequently confounded with Pekingese, which are
whole coloured, red or yellow, with black markings,
and whose ears are not set on at the same angle. A
Pekingese pup is perhaps the <i>very</i> prettiest puppy going,
before it reaches the lanky stage, which breeders of all
toys, except perhaps pugs and Schips, know means the
utter indifference, even scorn, of the uninitiated public.
The prices of Japs rule fairly high, and a good puppy
cannot be obtained, unless by special luck, for less than
£10 10s.; a larger female pup for a trifle less perhaps—but
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 37]</span>
such, if good in points, are quickly snapped up for
brood bitches. Japs have the same toy weight limit
as Poms—8 lbs.—and the over toy weight dogs are far
hardier and easier to breed than the midgets.</p>
<div class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> <i>Japanese Spaniels.</i>—The five rules of Japanese spaniel
beauty, according to the <i>Delhi Morning Post</i>, are these:
(1) The butterfly head; (2) the sacred V; (3) the bump
of knowledge; (4) vulture feet; (5) the chrysanthemum
tail. To attain the "butterfly head" and the "sacred V,"
a Jap must own a broad skull with a white V-shape up it
(the body of the butterfly), the small, black, V-shaped ears
forming the butterfly's wings. The "bump of knowledge"
is a small, round, black spot between the ears. The hair
on the "vulture feet" feathers to a point in front, but
must not widen the slender foot, and to the eye of faith
the beautiful, silky, plumed tail, tightly curled over the
back, presents the semblance of the national flower, the
chrysanthemum.</div><br>
<p><a name="Griffons_Bruxellois" id="Griffons_Bruxellois"></a>Griffons Bruxellois are quaintness personified, and
their funny little characters, full of dignity and self-sufficiency,
are indicated by their no less funny little
exteriors. The characteristics of a good Griffon are
smallness, hardness of coat, deep, rich red colour, huge
black eyes, <i>à fleur de tête</i>, the shortest possible black-ended
nose, as flat as may be with the face (this appearance
generally aided by the breeder, who presses the
baby cartilage upwards at every opportunity), and fine
and sound legs and feet. The tail is docked, but the
ears may not now be interfered with—a righteous
rule. An undershot "monkey face" is the desideratum,
and though sometimes shy breeders, these little
dogs are well worth having, and make the best of
house pets.</p>
<p>Of <a name="black-and-tan" id="black-and-tan"></a>black-and-tan toy terriers there is not much to
be said, for the simple reason that they are at present
quite out of fashion. A vague idea still, I believe,
prevails that the bare and leathery, not to say mangy,
appearance some of the former little creatures present
about their appleheads and big ears, is a sign of good
breeding; indeed, I have often been seriously invited
to consider the high claims of a spidery, ill-shaped
atom so affected to distinction on the score of aristocratic
descent.</p>
<p>In the show-ring things like this are not tolerated,
and the really well-bred black-and-tan is not like the
little abortions sold—but seldom now, though frequently
of old—by itinerant vendors whose characters were far
from being above suspicion, and by dog-dealers, as the
<i>crême de la crême</i> of pet dogdom. The show black-and-tan
toy is like a miniature Manchester terrier—glossy
of skin, long and neat in head, with small, dark
eyes, oval, not round and goggling; fine, well-made
limbs, with the correct pencilling of deep, rich tan on
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 38]</span>
must be no tan down the backs of the
hind legs, and the ears must be neat and well carried;
the tail a whip.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i046.jpg" width="400" height="402" alt="" title="">
<span class="caption">YORKSHIRE TERRIER. "Trixie," owned by Miss O'Donnell.</span>
</div>
<p><a name="Yorkshire" id="Yorkshire"></a>Yorkshire terriers, if small and well coated, always
find a sale, and will never be without friends. I like
them much as single pet dogs, but a kennel of Yorkshires
is a life's work, and only the enthusiast can give
them all the care they need. A Yorkie <i>must</i> be brushed
(lengthily) every day: it <i>must</i> be rubbed with oils and
washes, especially when its hair is breaking, the process
which turns the short-coated black-and-tan puppy into
the full-blown blue-and-tan beauty of mature age. If
the coat is to be done justice to, the puppy must, when
necessary, be most carefully washed (though washed
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 39]</span>
as little as possible), restrained from scratching by
having little wash-leather socks kept upon its hind
feet, and dieted with every attention directed towards
the prevention of any skin disorder. No dog can
carry a heavy coat unless well nourished, and the old
idea that farinaceous foods sufficed for this is exploded.
To avoid anæmia, keep the blood pure and
rich, and give strength, a Yorkie must have the
nourishment of meat. Withal, it is a merry little soul,
and if its coat can be to some extent sacrificed, a good
companion, fond of outdoor life, very barky and lively,
and tolerably affectionate; but a really lovely show
Yorkie is not a being for every day. The breed does
not suffer much from "distemper," and, strange to say,
in spite of generations of coddling and fussing, and
breeding for smallness and coat, is a decidedly healthy
one. The white Yorkshires, a new variety some folk
have tried to push, is, I think, in no way especially
desirable—the Maltese can do all that is necessary in
that line; while the attempt to make "silver" Yorkshires
popular, too, simply means that bad-coloured
dogs without any tan (paleness of tan is the stumbling-block
in many a Yorkshire's career), are classed by
themselves and offered prizes.</p>
<p><a name="Toy_pugs" id="Toy_pugs"></a>Toy pugs are, I think, invariably fascinating to those
who have a liking for pug kind; they are big pugs in
little, and everyone knows the points of a pug. My
own toy fawn pugs loved their comforts too much to be
perfect dogs for companioning a person of active outdoor
habits, but they were sweet-tempered, gentle
things, and, as such, to be commended. Pugs as a
race seem strangely apt to skin trouble, and the toys
are no exception. I have not seen many really good
and very small fawn toys, but there are some, and
where a pug is to be bought, a toy is really most desirable.
They make good house dogs, and are seldom
or never noisy, while those of a comparatively active
strain, bred to plenty of outdoor fun, and not indulged
in the greediness which, alas! is generally a feature
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 40]</span>in their character, need by no means acquire the stout,
snoring wheeziness which some folk think an elderly
pug cannot escape. All the same, I can but say that
I prefer the <a name="black" id="black"></a>black variety on the whole, for they unite
the sweet temper, faithfulness, and gentleness of the
fawns with an untiring energy, to my mind one of the
best qualities a dog can possess. They are also hardier,
less subject to "distemper" and kindred ills, and very
alert and intelligent. One merit, if such it be, they
do not share with the fawns—the latter are not expensive
dogs, for they are almost always good mothers
and prolific breeders. Not that the blacks fail in these
respects, but as yet they are comparatively dear—that
is, the really good ones. Head properties make much
of their value just now, for a good-headed black pug,
with a broad skull, large eyes, and plenty of skin and
wrinkle, is not in every litter, and narrow skulls are
much disliked, though Nature, with characteristic
contrariety, seems to rejoice in producing them.</p>
<p>Pugs cannot stand heating foods any more than
Yorkshires, which agree with them in doing better
upon boiled rice as an addition to meat to make needful
bulk, than upon any other farinaceous food. Next
to it in value comes wheat meal; oatmeal and Indian
corn meal will surely bring skin disaster. Lean meat,
underdone for choice, fish, and chicken, may be varied
to make the meals, with a small amount of the needful
staple as bulk.</p>
<p><a name="Toy_spaniels" id="Toy_spaniels"></a>Toy spaniels in general are not difficult dogs to
deal with. They are faithful and extremely affectionate
dogs, and the Blenheims make good country
pets, having often a considerable amount of sporting
instinct, even when they come of stock which has been
kept for show only for many years. The Marlborough
Blenheims are, of course, examples of the sporting
Blenheim, though they are not correct in show points;
and there is no reason why one of these dogs, toys
though they be, and fit to win, should not be a good
little country companion. For towns, white long-haired
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 41]</span>
dogs are not to be recommended, because of the
occasional washing, which is a vexation alike to dog and
owner. The colouring of the Blenheims is very taking,
and one with all the show points, spot on the head
included, is sure to be admired; but toy spaniels, as
a race, the Jap and Pekingese excepted, are very much
in the hands of professional exhibitors, and but seldom
now seen as pets. The black-and-tan King Charles is
inclined to be rather a silly dog, pretty enough, but
not "brainy"; a loving little thing, but unintellectual—such,
at least, is my experience of him. The faults
of both breeds are generally too much leg, long heads
and noses, instead of the big round skulls desired;
small eyes, and curliness—the latter a direful mistake.
The Prince Charles, or Tricolour, is the King Charles
over again in three colours—black, tan, and white;
and the Ruby is, as its name implies, all red; rather
scarce, this is, to my mind, the prettiest of the toy
spaniels. All are very susceptible to damp and cold,
and should be carefully dried, especially as to the feet,
after being out in rain or mud. They are sweet dogs
in skin, and seldom smell "doggy"—a great virtue.</p>
<p><a name="Maltese" id="Maltese"></a>Maltese have a good many friends. These are
the oldest of all lap dogs, and a good specimen,
with perfectly straight hair—which is, however, but
seldom found—is really a thing of beauty. They
should be treated like Yorkshire terriers, except that
some of the ever-recurring tubs may be avoided by
dusting flour or violet powder (pure starch) into the
coat and well brushing it out again. They are often
spoiled by brown noses, which are a great handicap,
and also by the brown marks caused by running of the
eyes, which are a great disfigurement in a white dog.
Here I may break off to remark that these marks
would also spoil white toy Poms, but for the fact that
white toys of that breed are scarce. Breeders have
done their best to get them, and a good many small ones—under
6 lbs.—have been bred, but the tiny whites
shown are generally deficient in some point. Of toy
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 42]</span>
whites, over 6 lbs. and under 8 lbs., there are now many,
and good; especially in a certain west-country kennel;
but some of the best are dangerously near the limit of
weights.</p>
<p>The "<a name="tear-channels" id="tear-channels"></a>tear-channels" which led to this digression
can be helped <i>not</i> to exist by using a boracic acid lotion
to the eye; but the stains are often ineffaceable.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2>
<p class="center">AILMENTS AND ILLNESSES</p>
<p><b><a name="Anaemia" id="Anaemia"></a>Anæmia</b>—a condition of general depression in health,
with impoverishment of the blood—is of all serious
diseases the most common among dogs. It is this
condition that causes dogs to have worms; it is this
deficiency in the blood supply, both in quantity and
quality, which brings about ninety out of every hundred
cases of skin disease. The original cause of the disease
in toy dogs was the way in which they were, and unfortunately
often still are, kept, fed, and housed. A
number of dogs kept together in some artificially-heated
building, confined in small pens, obliged to breathe
impure air, and fed on Indian meal, biscuits, oatmeal,
and other cereals, with little or no meat—this is kennel
life, and a splendid foundation for anæmia. We all
know how worms and eczema and other skin troubles
beset toys kept "in kennels," but not until the knowledge
has caused people to give up keeping them thus,
and handing on hereditary eczema and hereditarily
vitiated blood to their puppies, shall we get rid of the
inherited tendency to poverty of blood which makes
so many toy dogs possessions of anxiety rather than
sources of satisfaction to their owners.</p>
<p><a name="food" id="food"></a>If a law could be passed obliging all dogs to receive a
suitable daily allowance of good, fresh, underdone meat,
and abolishing farinaceous feeding altogether, even for
five years, it is not too much to say that at the end of
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 43]</span>
this time eczema in its more common forms would have
died out, worms be the infrequent exception rather
than the rule, and "distemper" would have ceased to
be a thing of terror.</p>
<p>It is extraordinary how ignorant educated people,
otherwise well informed, can show themselves on this
subject. I have repeatedly received letters in which,
after detailing a diet of milk puddings, oatmeal porridge,
vegetables, bread and gravy, and so on, the writer
gravely adds the assurance—"But I have never given
a farinaceous diet!" Green vegetables and such starchy
vegetables as potatoes are absolutely useless to dogs,
and so indigestible as only to rank second to absolute
poisons, like carrots and turnips. No dog can get the
mineral salts necessary to healthy blood out of oatmeal,
Indian corn meal, or any other meal, nor out of
a little iron-hard, dried gristle or some similar substance,
such as appears in some so-called "meat" foods. It
can only get these substances out of its natural and
proper food—meat. Puppies fed on meat from the
time their teeth can bite it do not have anæmia, and
are consequently free from skin trouble: their blood
is rich and pure, and they do not harbour worms. I
only ask any reader who doubts these statements to
try the very simple experiment of separating a litter
at seven weeks, and feeding half the pups on meat, of
course varied, cut up small, and given in moderate
quantity three times, and subsequently twice, a day,
with a very small proportion of wheaten flour-stuff
given merely as a treat and variety, in the form of small
sweet biscuits or sponge cake, to afford the needful
bulk to the meals. No gravy, milk, vegetables, nor
any liquid but water to be given. The other pups in
the litter can be fed on the old, artificial, unnatural
plan of constant, large, sloppy meals of milk food. If
the conditions are otherwise equal—plenty of fun, sunshine,
and exercise being given—the difference between
the two sets of pups will probably be quite sufficiently
marked to uphold my argument, with the further addition
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 44]</span>
that the meat-fed puppies will be found a good deal
less objectionable in the house before their education
begins, and infinitely easier to train, than their brethren
on farinaceous diet.</p>
<p>In cases of anæmia, as shown by skin trouble, bareness
round the eyes, poor or capricious appetite, languor,
unpleasant breath, thinness, and a general look
of unthriftiness, a liberal meat diet is the first essential,
and plenty of fresh air—not necessarily hard exercise,
for which the patient is generally unfit—the next.
A <a name="tonic" id="tonic"></a>tonic is always desirable, and iron the most suitable.
There are several forms of this useful drug. Reduced
iron can be given in very small dosage; sulphate of iron
is cheap and useful in pill form: both of these have a
tendency to constipate. The saccharated carbonate
of iron is a beautiful preparation that does not constipate—is,
indeed, a little laxative in action. It is
a powder, tasteless except for sweetness, and will be
taken readily enough if sprinkled on meat, or it can be
made into pills with the addition of a tonic bitter, as in
the form of the Kanofelin tonic pills. It is the most
expensive of the forms of iron, but that is not saying
much, as all are absurdly low in price. The dose for
a toy is from two to four grains twice a day, in, or immediately
after, food. Cod liver oil is a useful medicine
in bad cases of anæmia, especially where, by reason of
having or having inherited, this habit of body, a long-haired
toy is always <a name="poor_in_coat" id="poor_in_coat"></a>poor in coat. Some dogs never
grow coats, merely because they have not the strength
to do so, and others inherit sparseness of hair. But
if there is any hair in reserve, a course of <a name="cod_liver_oil" id="cod_liver_oil"></a>cod liver oil
will help it on, and better far than plain cod liver oil
is its preparation with malt. Cheap cod liver oil, however,
is horrid, and should never be given. It will only
act as a purgative, and be worse than useless. Nor
should a dog ever be forced to take this substance if
he has a dislike to it. But if the anæmic, scantily-coated
patient will take it readily, a teaspoonful of some
good brand of cod liver oil and malt extract, besides
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 45]</span>
three grains of saccharated carbonate of iron twice a
day, with meat diet, will make a most marvellously
different dog of him in six weeks' or two months' time.</p>
<p>It is quite useless to give any tonic for a week or ten
days, or irregularly. It must be given for a long time
and with perfect regularity, or it does no good whatever:
it must have time to be absorbed into the system,
to permeate it, and be taken up by the blood.</p>
<p><b><a name="Bad_Teeth" id="Bad_Teeth"></a>Bad Teeth.</b>—The existence of canker in dogs' teeth
is generally another consequence of bad rearing and
farinaceous feeding. Meat-fed pups, from meat-fed
parents, have conspicuously good sound teeth, whereas
among kennelled dogs it is not at all uncommon to find
specimens of mouths cankered throughout, and this
condition is certainly sometimes transmitted to the
offspring. The teeth look deep yellow, or brown, the
dental enamel is soft, and in bad cases they drop out.
The gums are soft and spongy and pale. The disease
being constitutional, little or nothing can be done to
arrest the decay of the teeth, which luckily seems painless.
The dog should be carefully fed on the most
nutritious underdone meat, and the mouth may be
washed out daily with a very weak solution of permanganate
of potash: just enough of the crystals to
tinge warm water pink being used. The best way to
perform this little operation—one to which most dogs
object very strongly—is to get someone to hold the
head, with the nose pointing downwards, over a basin,
and to introduce the nozzle of a gutta-percha ball
syringe between the lips at the back of one side, letting
it enter that spot in the jaw where there is a hiatus
between the lower teeth. Two or three squeezes of the
ball will then wash out the mouth pretty effectually.</p>
<p>This <a name="cankeredteeth" id="cankeredteeth"></a>cankered condition of dogs' teeth may be brought
about by the absorption of mercury into the system.
A dog which had been troubled with very obstinate
recurrent eczema, known to be inherited from ill-reared
parents, was apparently cured as by magic when sent
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 46]</span>
to a veterinary surgeon, who dressed him all over with
mercurial ointment. The improvement in his condition
continued for about three months, when it was discovered
that he ate with difficulty. His mouth being examined,
the teeth, previously sound, were found to be like so
much dark, yellow-brown leather, and the gums sore.
The next development was in the form of a cancerous
growth in the posterior nares, and so the poor animal
died, a victim to a cruel "fate," for which the surgeon
had obtained the credit of a cure. Such cases are not
at all uncommon.</p>
<p><b><a name="Dental_Caries" id="Dental_Caries"></a>Dental Caries</b>, such as affects our own teeth when
they decay and have to be stopped, occasionally, though
luckily not often, distresses dogs. They may bruise the
dental pulp inside a tooth by biting very hard on a bone,
or by playing too roughly, and more especially by
carrying stones, a very bad practice. The only thing
to be done is generally to extract the tooth under
chloroform, since it is difficult to find dog-dentists who
will stop a decayed tooth. A dog with toothache, rubbing
his face on the ground and crying, is a pitiable sight.</p>
<p><b><a name="Abscesses_between_or_on_the_Toes" id="Abscesses_between_or_on_the_Toes"></a>Abscesses between or on the Toes</b> are a form of
eczema, and should be treated constitutionally, as suggested
under the heading of Anæmia, eczema's usual
cause. Dogs will worry these sores, and must be prevented
from doing so by having the foot encased in a sock
made of strong washed calico, tied round the leg with
tape. Before putting on the sock, dress the sore with
iodoform powder or zinc ointment.</p>
<p><b><a name="Docking_Puppies" id="Docking_Puppies"></a>Docking Puppies.</b>—Being docked is not an ailment
nor an illness, but as a very sad conclusion may be put
to a valuable pup's life by the operation carelessly
performed, it is as well to say a word about it. Docking
should never be left until the eyes open and the nervous
system is fully organized. At such an age it is a piece
of gross cruelty and the risk of hæmorrhage is enormously
increased. Unless puppies are very weakly, they
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 47]</span>
should be docked at five days old at latest. Happy
is the owner whose Poms or Pugs require no such
improvement! The Schipperke owner has been especially
commiserated or vituperated, as the case
might be, but as a matter of fact there is, in the hands
of a competent surgeon, used to operate on these and
other dogs, not one iota more risk or more pain or more
difficulty than in dealing with a terrier. Docking
should be done by a skilled veterinary surgeon, with
proper antiseptic precautions. His hands and the
strong scissors used are first made thoroughly antiseptic
by washing in carbolic or some other antiseptic solution,
and the operation can be done without the pup's losing
any blood at all to speak of. The wounds are dressed
with iodoform powder and tannic acid powder, mixed,
and in one hour the mother, who should be sent out for
a walk while the surgeon is in the house, will be admitted
to them, and they will be sucking as if nothing had
happened. Occasionally, owing to some idiosyncrasy
of the individual, a puppy may bleed after docking,
and therefore a careful watch must always be kept. If
there is any hæmorrhage, bathe with very cold water
in which alum has been dissolved, and apply a styptic,
as tannic acid or perchloride of iron. But it is always
well to ask the operator to remain for an hour or so,
until all risk is over. The blood vessels very quickly
seal up at their ends (to use untechnical language),
and the tongue of the mother, when re-admitted after
the necessary interval, will do no harm. Though
docking is neither dangerous nor cruel when properly
done on puppies so young that they have little or no
sensation in their undeveloped nerves, it is a barbarism
to let any ignorant person, as a groom or coachman,
do it; and the dog owner who will not sacrifice her own
possible repugnance sufficiently to co-operate with the
skilled surgeon in seeing it properly done, at least owes
it as a duty to her dumb dependents to pay him to take
all reasonable care, and bring an assistant to hold them,
and stay until they are quite safe and comfortable.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 48]</span>
<p><b><a name="Bilious_Attacks" id="Bilious_Attacks"></a>Bilious Attacks.</b>—A slight chill, in east-windy times
of year, or from any undue exposure to cold, will sometimes
bring on a liver attack in dogs, while some are
habitually subject to sick-headache after the manner
of their owners. A bilious dog shivers, looks miserable,
brings up a little yellow liquid or some froth, after a
good deal of retching, and refuses to eat. Such an
attack is always easy to diagnose, because the nose
remains, as a rule, cold and moist, while there is no
rise in temperature. The same symptoms, with feverishness,
would probably mean commencing serious illness,
necessitating skilled advice; but without rise of temperature
are not important, unless they resist treatment
and continue for longer than about twelve hours. The
patient should be kept warm, covered up before the
fire if the weather is severe, and given a soft pill of three
grains of carbonate of bismuth and one grain of bicarbonate
of soda, every four hours, until appetite returns.</p>
<p><b><a name="Loss_of_appetite" id="Loss_of_appetite"></a>Loss of appetite</b> is a symptom which should never
be disregarded. It may be quite right for the owners
of sporting dogs to use the phrase so frequently heard:
"Oh, if he won't eat, he's better without it," but want
of appetite in a toy dog should never be a matter of
indifference to the owner. It may, of course, arise
only from previous over-eating, and over-fed dogs are
certainly subject to bilious attacks which do not call
for much sympathy; but it is always desirable to
assure oneself that nothing more serious is the matter
before dismissing the subject. In cases where loss of
appetite is the precursor and accompaniment of illness,
as in distemper, it would be most unwise to leave the
dog to itself, and by allowing it to go without food,
pull down the vitality and give the disease a firmer
hold. As a general rule, a dog may be allowed to miss
one meal without much anxiety; but, if a second is
refused, inquisition should be made, and the temperature
be taken, without loss of time. A <a name="clinical" id="clinical"></a>clinical
thermometer is a most useful adjunct in the dog-room,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 49]</span>
and any temperature over 100 degs. or 101 degs.—the
former the dog's normal one—is suspicious. The
easiest way of <a name="taking" id="taking"></a>taking it is by inserting the instrument
between the thigh and the body, and, as it were, holding
these together, over it. Puppies will often refuse food
simply because their gums are sore from teething, and
here, again, it would be extremely foolish to let them go
on in a state of semi-starvation. When a puppy is
seen to pick up his food with his front teeth, shake
each piece, and turn it over indifferently, it is a pretty
sure sign that he cannot eat comfortably; if the natural
process of cutting the teeth is in fault, all that need be
done is to give minced meat and soft though dry food—a
sponge cake will nearly always be willingly negotiated—and
keep a watch to see that he gets enough to maintain
him in good condition and pull him through the critical
time; if, as is sometimes the case with an older dog,
a too-lingering first tooth is setting up irritation and
needs extracting, the vet's services must be requisitioned,
as it is not advisable for any amateur to try
his hand at canine dentistry. The main characteristic
of the "new" or Stuttgart disease, or of gastritis, by
the way, is inability to take food, the mouth being
ulcerated, in addition to stomach complications; and
here, again, commencing loss of appetite must be regarded
with suspicion. Simple biliousness is not
common among properly-fed dogs, but is sometimes
brought on in individuals by what I may be so technically
medical as to call idiosyncrasy—to wit, inability
to digest certain foods. Many toy dogs cannot eat
vegetables, which of course are to all unnatural and
very indigestible, and others are invariably sick if they
are given milk, and the dog can no more help these
peculiarities than human beings similarly afflicted.
Biliousness, brought on either by over-eating, a chill
on the liver, or some unsuitable food, is easily recognized,
and here abstinence for a while <i>is</i> advisable. The
patient will be chilly, probably having cold paws, and
may be sick several times, producing only a little yellow
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 50]</span>
froth; most dogs eat grass and soon feel better, requiring
no medicine; but if appetite does not return
quickly, give a bismuth-and-soda pill every four hours,
the proportion being three grains of bicarbonate of soda
to one grain of carbonate of bismuth.</p>
<p><b><a name="Indigestion" id="Indigestion"></a>Indigestion</b> is by no means uncommon among toy
dogs, and frequently leads to the odious habit of eating
horrible things in the street, about which dog owners
sometimes complain, and with reason. The presence
of worms leads up to this habit, too, and where it
exists they may be first suspected; and then, if their
existence is disproved, indigestion comes in as the
likely factor. Its treatment is not difficult, but the
owner must make up her mind to persevere, and to
feed her dog herself—no servant, no matter how careful,
possesses judgment enough to deal with a case
of this kind. Absolute regularity in feeding is necessary;
the meals must be small, yet very nourishing,
and the dog should not be allowed to drink immediately
after eating. A digestive tonic containing
nux vomica is almost invariably useful, but it is not
a medicine which can be prescribed at large, for nux
vomica is in itself a dangerous drug, and acts much
more freely upon some dogs than upon others, making
it most unwise to prescribe "so much" for all dogs
alike. With this proviso, I will give a prescription
intended for a Yorkshire terrier weighing about 6 lbs.,
which may be safely tried upon toys between 5 lbs. and
8 lbs. weight, the quantity of this particular ingredient
being reduced by one-half for dogs between 4 lbs. and
5 lbs. and by two-thirds for toy puppies, upon whom
its administration must be watched with extra vigilance:
[Rx] pulv. nucis vom., gr.; pulv. radix gentianæ,
1 gr.; carb. bismuthi, 4 grs.; bicarb, sodii, 1½ grs.;
ferri carb. sacch., 3 grs. M. H. D. Exhib. cum cib.
bis vel ter die. A pill somewhat similar, but in some
respects superior to this, is sold as one of the Kanofelin
remedies.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 51]</span>
<p>The symptom of too great susceptibility to the action
of strychnine (nux vomica) will be, in bold language,
twitching and nervousness, and where these are observed
to follow a dose it must be diminished or stopped
altogether, and in this latter case the powder without
the first ingredient may be tried.</p>
<p><b><a name="Disagreeable_Breath" id="Disagreeable_Breath"></a>Disagreeable Breath and Eructation.</b>—Beta-naphthol,
given in pills containing ½ gr. each, is a valuable
drug in cases of indigestion where eructation and
disagreeable breath are noticeable. For toys under
5 lbs. ¼ gr. pills must be given; one pill in either case
to be given about ten minutes after each meal. The
effect of the drug is simply to check the fermentation
of the food and the consequent formation of foul gases
in the stomach. Where this form of indigestion is
accompanied by diarrhœa, salol may be given instead
of naphthol, in the same doses; but it and naphthol do
not suit all dogs alike, though neither can do any harm,
and if the patient is sick after a dose, the sign has been
given that marks the treatment as unsuitable to his
individuality. As in the case of human patients, the
dog doctor may have to try several methods of treatment
before he hits upon the cure. Pills are often
troublesome to give, which fault cannot be found with
powdered vegetable charcoal, to which few dogs make
any objection when it is sprinkled upon their food
and lightly covered with a few tiny bits of something
very dainty; but where the owner prefers to give
medicine apart from the food, enclosure of powder in a
capsule is always practicable. A simple and tasteless
powder is included among the Kanofelin Remedies,
and may always have a trial, given with the food, in
cases of indigestion.</p>
<p><b><a name="The_Bad_Doer" id="The_Bad_Doer"></a>The Bad Doer.</b>—Want of appetite for no particular
reason, except general debility of the stomach,
is the annoying characteristic of the kennel-man's
horror—the "bad doer," who is characterised by
thinness and bad coat. Here and there we find a
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 52]</span>thin little dog that nothing will fatten; hardly ever
hungry, and dainty to the distraction of his owner; a
dog who will not eat in a strange place or from an
unusual plate, and who only grows the thinner and
more miserable for what he <i>does</i> eat. He is an unenviable
possession, but we must make the best of him,
coax him with small and frequent meals, for he will
often accept a teaspoonful of raw meat minced, or a
tablespoonful of cream, where he would not even look
at an ordinary dog's meal, and get him up as well as
we can for show with a daily new-laid egg, beaten up
in a very little milk, and that useful and valuable dog-owner's
aid, cod liver oil and malt. Most dogs will
take this with a little tempting meat to help it down.
Of course it must not be pushed at first, but given,
to begin with, in very small doses, and gradually increased
until our usefully typical 6 lb. dog is taking a
full teaspoonful twice a day. It is a wonderful hair
producer. Cod liver oil alone, without the malt, is
of much less use, and cheap preparations of either or
both are to be sternly avoided; in the nature of things,
such a medicine cannot be cheap, if it is to be thoroughly
good. And here, I may remark, that because we are
<i>only</i> dealing with a dog is no reason why we should
put cheap drugs of any kind into him. His system
is just as beautiful and delicate in its balance as that
of a human being, though his teeth and his digestion
may be stronger—such is not invariably the case by
any means—and the administration of impure or adulterated
medicine is just as great a cruelty to it as to
the human machinery. To give a toy dog crude cod
liver oil, imperfectly purified, because it is cheap, is
like expecting to do fine carving upon oak with a hatchet,
because it <i>is</i> oak and not satin-wood.</p>
<p><b><a name="Internal_Parasites" id="Internal_Parasites"></a>Internal Parasites.</b>—In no case has modern progress
in knowledge disclosed more fallacies, held formerly as
firm beliefs, than where the internal parasites—which
for our present purpose, this being only a popular manual,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 53]</span>
may be classed as tape-worms and round worms—of the
dog are concerned. Only a few years ago, if a dog
suffered from skin disease in any one of its several forms,
"worms" were at once cited as the cause. Now we
know—or rather, those among us know, who either have
some understanding of canine anatomy and physiology
or will take the word of the scientist for it—that worms
cause nothing: they are not a cause, but an effect.
They are a symptom of anæmia; and as skin trouble
almost invariably accompanies any severe degree of
anæmia in dogs, skin trouble and worms are usually
found together. We cannot, therefore, cure dogs of
harbouring worms by giving expellent doses, no matter
how glowingly advertised and boomed, of the various
irritant drugs which act as vermifuges. We can only
by this means temporarily drive out the enemy, which
is certain to return, because the conditions prevailing
in an anæmic intestine suit it perfectly, and encourage
its increase, whereas in the healthy intestine it more or
less shares the fate of food on being digested, and is
incapable of rapid or sustained increase. The effect of
an anæmic or vitiated condition of the blood-supply to
the villi, or, in non-scientific language, digesting pores
which exist all over the mucoid lining of the intestinal
tract, is to prevent their throwing out those strong
juices or digestive fluids which they normally produce.
Their secretions are altered and weakened, and have
no injurious effect on the parasites, which then increase
rapidly. When, therefore, it becomes evident,
by the appearance of short yellowish-white segments,
generally about an inch long, and varying in breadth
from a mere line to about a quarter of an inch, dropped
about by a dog, that tape-worm exists; or it is seen by his
vomiting them up or otherwise, that he has round worms,
which somewhat resemble earth-worms, what we have
to do is to alter that condition of the general health
which allows these pests to exist. In brief, we have to
treat the dog for anæmia, which subject has been
already discussed. It is, of course, occasionally possible
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 54]</span>
for a healthy, meat-fed dog to become accidentally
infected by swallowing tape-worm ova, and in such
a case a few of the parasites may be harboured for a
considerable time, not increasing, but now and then
making their presence manifest. Infection is possible
by the swallowing of fleas, which are intermediate hosts
of tape-worm, or by eating the insides of rabbits, which
usually swarm with these creatures, or, in the opinion
of some authorities, by sniffing the ova up through the
nasal passages and subsequently swallowing them. As,
however, one cannot always be certain that the apparently
healthy dog is not a trifle below par, it is always
well to treat him with a course of iron, giving the powders
or tonic pills advised for anæmia for a month, and at the
expiration of that period, when the system is toned up
so that the worms' position is almost untenable, and
their expulsion will be final, one or two <a name="vermifuge" id="vermifuge"></a>vermifuge doses
may be given. All sorts of quack remedies have been
praised and boomed as infallible, but many are exceedingly
drastic, and some positively dangerous. <a name="Areca" id="Areca"></a>Areca
nut, so frequently advised, is a most violent irritant,
actually poisonous in its effects on young puppies,
and a very cruel remedy in all cases. Wormseed oil,
an American preparation, possibly from one of the
inulas, a family of plants known in English gardens,
is sometimes an ingredient; also such highly unsuitable,
inert, useless, or dangerous substances as sulphate of
magnesia, salt, or cowhage, with strong doses of santonine,
a drug that should never be given in unknown
quantity. A violent purgative action often accompanies
these secret remedies, adding to their danger.
The intelligent dog owner should know what he is
giving, and to some extent understand its action; but
in a country where quack, much-advertised medicines
are largely given to children, I suppose it will be difficult
to prevent their being also administered to dogs. In
any case, no worm medicine whatever, of any sort or
kind, other than an iron tonic, should be given to young
puppies, no known drug possessing a stronger action
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 55]</span>
than iron upon the parasites being safe for toy pups
under three months old. After that age it is safe to give
very small doses of oil of male-fern and absolutely minute
ones of santonine. These are best combined in a capsule,
in which form they can be given without distressing
the patient, and a perfectly safe capsule after this
formula is, among the Kanofelin remedies—which are
not secret, but are compounded after recognised
formulæ, and equally suitable for dogs or children
in the purity of their drugs and safety of their action.
If any of the popular advertised remedies are used for
adults, experiment should be made at first with much
smaller doses than are cited, and safety thus assured,
for a microscopic dose will often act quite severely
enough for the toy dog owner's purpose, and dogs are
as variously sensitive to drug action as we ourselves.</p>
<p><a name="round" id="round"></a>In very young puppies the bringing up by the mouth
of round worms is not at all unusual, especially when
they are pups born of "kennel" parents, dogs crowded
together in numbers, insufficiently fed (although possibly
upon an excessive quantity of oatmeal and Indian
corn meal), denied meat, and leading a completely
unnatural life in every respect. It is rather a shock
to an amateur when this occurs, but as a rule little
anxiety need be felt, for if the puppy is properly fed
upon small dry meals of a very digestible and nourishing
nature, say two tablespoonfuls of good underdone
rump-steak, or the same quantity of roast mutton, three
times a day for a dog the size of a pug, and given a
one-grain dose of iron with two of these meals, he will be
pretty sure to grow out of his troubles. In any such
case great attention must be paid to keeping up the
strength of the patient, in order to tide him over the
time when by reason of youth and his very tender little
stomach, it is impossible to give him any stronger medicine
with safety.</p>
<p>Extreme thinness and loss of coat are sometimes
attributed to that wonderful power worms, in old-fashioned
eyes, possessed. Both of these symptoms
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 56]</span>
are those of an anæmic condition, as is fœtor of the
breath. Finally, the treatment of that over-rated
bugbear in the way of diseases, "Worms," is easily
summarised thus—Meat feeding; an iron tonic; a
vermifuge after the tonic course, and not before.</p>
<p>After male-fern capsules it is quite unnecessary to give
any aperient. Most inventors of "worm pills" and
the like order castor oil to be given after their boluses,
a terrible aggravation both to operator and patient.</p>
<p><b><a name="Aperients" id="Aperients"></a>Aperients.</b>—Some people have an idea that it is desirable
to dose dogs periodically, on the quaint old "spring-medicine"
principle, extended over all the year. No
greater mistake can be made. A dog should never be
given drugs of any kind unless really ill, and this it will
never be in the direction indicated, if it is properly fed
and regularly exercised. A dog's natural and proper
food is meat; but the stimulus of distension must be
given to the intestine by adding some bulk of innutritious
food to the meat. We cannot give quite enough meat
to afford this stimulus constantly, because by doing so
we should overload the system. In a state of nature
dogs ate the fur and skins of their prey, like other
carnivora: now we must give them a certain proportion,
but only a small one, of biscuits made of wheat (not
of oatmeal or Indian corn meal, which are too indigestible)
or of brown bread, to provide bulk without
nourishment. They may, if any aperient be absolutely
necessary, have a meal of boiled liver, a teaspoonful
or two of pure olive oil poured over a little meat, or
given from a spoon, or some cod liver oil, which may
be voluntarily taken, and is equally efficacious. Milk
is very laxative, and sometimes, where there is no
biliousness, a small saucerful makes a good aperient.
Always take a dog for his run at the same time of day,
wet or fine, and never lose sight of the fact that a well-behaved
clean little house-pet may bring upon itself
a dangerous attack of constipation by its good manners
if its appeal for a walk is ignored.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 57]</span>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i065.jpg" width="400" height="324" alt="" title="" >
<span class="caption">TYPICAL JAPANESE SPANIEL.</span>
</div>
<p><b><a name="Distemper" id="Distemper"></a>Distemper.</b>—As a matter of actual fact, there is no
such disease as distemper. There are two diseases, or
two groups of diseases, both more or less contagious,
which, for want of skilled diagnosis, are indifferently
so named, but their popular designation is so firmly
rooted that "distemper" will be with us to the end of
the chapter, and so long as the disease is properly
treated it matters little whether we call it bronchial
catarrh, gastro-enteritis, typhoid, or distemper. Perhaps,
in a manual not intended for the learned, it will
be most useful, as it is certainly most simple, and, I
think, practical, to speak of "two forms of distemper,"
since the chest and lung diseases of the dog all call for
one sort of home treatment, and the more ordinary
diseases of the intestinal tract can with safety be lumped
together as needing another fairly uniform style of
treatment. Further than this the non-medical dog
owner is not wise to venture, since it is quite as necessary
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 58]</span>
that a canine patient should have skilled advice as that
it should be called in for his master—that is, if his
recovery is desired.</p>
<p>Roughly speaking, then, there are two kinds of distemper—that
which affects the nose, throat, and chest,
and in slight cases may pass as being only a very bad
cold, and that which affects the intestinal canal, involving
the whole alimentary system. This latter is
certainly the more troublesome for an amateur to treat,
and decidedly the more fatal; but, fortunately, the
former is the more common. It is very easy to tell
when a dog is the subject of distemper in the catarrhal
form, and when in this state he is, I think, much more
likely to do well if carefully nursed at home; but in
the typhoid form it requires skilled nursing to do the
case justice, and the physical conditions are such that
if—it is a big "if"—the right sort of vet can be found,
the dog has a better chance with him.</p>
<p>The symptoms of <a name="catarrhal_distemper" id="catarrhal_distemper"></a>catarrhal distemper are shivering,
feverishness—temperature generally not very high at
first, but a degree or two over the normal—profuse
discharge from the eyes and nose, and, in short, all
those of a bad, feverish cold; and the treatment may
be exactly that which we should give a child under the
same circumstances. The great thing, in both forms,
is to keep up the strength from the very beginning;
this is far more important than giving medicine of
any kind, and if the patient will not eat, he should
be given food forcibly. I do not by this mean that
a large quantity of food should be forced upon the
unwilling animal; he should have about two teaspoonfuls
of some invalid nourishment every two hours, and
this should be as varied as possible, and kept as sweet
and dainty as if for a human patient. A raw egg
beaten up with the smallest possible quantity of milk;
a little good beef-tea, made by cutting lean, raw beef
into small cubes, and slowly drawing all the goodness
out of it in an earthenware jar, tightly covered, in the
oven, only two tablespoonfuls of water to the pound of
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 59]</span>
meat being added; veal broth similarly made; arrowroot,
with a few drops of the juice of raw meat added;
strong chicken tea, with a little rice boiled in it and
strained out—all these may be rung upon for change.
Some dogs will eat solid food all through the disease,
and this simplifies matters immensely. Where there
is no appetite, liquids or semi-liquids must be given.
Concentrated foods and other invalid preparations,
though useful on occasion, very soon pall and sicken
the patient, and while it saves trouble to use things
like this, they have not the same effect in keeping
up the strength as good, honest home-cookery. The
necessity for thus dieting and feeding is the same in
either form of distemper, and the dog must not be
left all night without attention, but fed at intervals
then also. Warmth and evenness of temperature come
next in importance. A little flannel jacket or cross-over,
made of thick, new flannel, is as good as poultices, and
should be put, and kept, on well into convalescence,
when, of course, it must not be left off too suddenly.
I do not say anything about medicine, actual poulticing,
etc., because a distemper patient, in view of the complications
which are always apt to arise in this disease,
should be nursed under skilled veterinary direction.
I only insist on the need for feeding up and warmth.</p>
<p>Distemper patients cannot go out of doors, in cold
weather, unless there is to be no regard to the great
risk they run in such a change of temperature; therefore,
as soon as the disease declares itself, it is well to
settle the patient somewhere where a tray of earth can
be provided, absolute quiet maintained, and an even
warmth kept up, and here let the disease run its course.</p>
<p><a name="Relapse" id="Relapse"></a>Relapses from distemper are even more serious than
the first attack, and they are very apt to occur where
the patient is allowed to go out, or move about too
soon or too much. Stimulants—brandy and port wine—are
very useful where the weakness is great, and
champagne will often be kept down where water or
broth would be rejected.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 60]</span>
<p>The "new" disease, commonly called the <a name="Stuttgart" id="Stuttgart"></a>Stuttgart
disease, which has created so much excitement among
dog owners during the last year or two, and is of the
nature of gastritis, or inflammation of the lining membrane
of the stomach, spreading upwards and downwards,
calls in some ways for quite a different treatment
to that of the typhoid form of distemper. They are
alike in this: that a teaspoonful or so of iced champagne
or iced soda and milk, will sometimes be retained where
nothing else will, but in gastric catarrh, or gastritis,
the patient must not be allowed to drink water, or to
make the slightest exertion.</p>
<p>It may, perhaps, be as well to state what, I suppose,
is not yet known to all dog owners—namely, the fact
that it is by no means a necessity for a toy, or any
other dog for that matter, to have distemper. Like
scarlet fever in the human subject, distemper may occur
in a dog's life, or may not. The child takes scarlet fever
if it has been in the way of infection, and the dog distemper
if the contagion has been conveyed to it either
by some person who has been near an affected dog, by
that dog itself, or by some article on which infected discharges
of any kind have been deposited.</p>
<p>The one quarrel we all have with shows is that they
certainly offer opportunities of spreading distemper to
people who do not consider its existence in their kennels
a sufficient reason for withholding entries, and carry the
contagion with them, although the dogs they exhibit may
be in themselves unaffected. An old-fashioned piece of
advice in distemper, and one always given, was that at
the outset of the disease a dose of castor oil, or some other
aperient, should be administered. I have no hesitation
at all in saying that whereas castor oil—to the dog
a violent irritant purgative—has carried off many and
many a puppy and delicate adult that, if not so weakened
just when all the reserve forces of strength were most
needed, might have pulled through, this practice is a
most mistaken one, to say the least of it. If there is
any probability of there being any collection in the
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 61]</span>
intestine which needs clearing away, pure olive oil will
do all, and more than castor oil, and will neither cause
the pain at the time nor the subsequent constipation,
which will be the inevitable results, if there are no
worse ones, of the stronger, and, I must call it, vile, drug.
Another fallacy is the supposed desirability of constantly
washing the eyes and nose with warm water.
This is often not properly dried off, and chill results,
while all the fuss and worry is quite needless and does
no good. A little bit of old linen rag may be torn up
and the fragments used to clean off the discharges
and at once burnt. Once, or even twice, a day a sponge
damped with boracic lotion can be used, but very
sparingly.</p>
<p>The watchword in distemper, as I said before, is
nursing—good nursing alone will pull most dogs through—and
I deliberately refrain from giving any prescriptions,
because, as each case varies according to circumstances
and the patient's constitution, each should be
prescribed for on its merits.</p>
<p>For far too long we have gone on in a rough-and-ready
rule-of-thumb method of dosing dogs all in the
same way, without regard to idiosyncrasy, which all
the time has been as marked in them as in human
kind—and the sooner we change all this and study each
dog after its kind, the better for them and for us.</p>
<p><b><a name="Skin_Troubles" id="Skin_Troubles"></a>Skin Troubles.</b>—The most annoying thing about
the skin complaints which occasionally beset toy dogs
is the difficulty to the amateur of diagnosing them
correctly. Even veterinary surgeons are sometimes
hazy in this respect, and it is therefore well when a
skin trouble refuses to yield to simple remedies, incapable
of doing harm, to consult a man really experienced
in toys, and not some uninterested, and even rather
contemptuous, practitioner, who may even commit such
a cruel barbarity as I have heard of, in the advising
of <i>sheep dip</i>!</p>
<p>The most common form of skin disease in adult
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 62]</span>
dogs is eczema, which for purposes of rough, or popular,
classification, may be divided into two forms, wet and
dry. Weeping eczema is decidedly uncommon, but is
the only form of skin disease offering open sores and
raw surfaces likely to affect comparatively well-cared-for
toy dogs. In this, as in the dry, severer forms of
eczema, it is useless to attempt cure by mere outward
applications. The mischief is in the blood, and until
the blood is put right the external symptoms will
continue, unless, indeed, strong <a name="mercurial" id="mercurial"></a>mercurial lotion or
ointment be used, which may fatally drive the disease
in, and by clearing up the skin and so depriving the
body of the safety-valve of outward lesions, eventually
kill the animal. Such a proceeding is occasionally
resorted to by unscrupulous persons whose only desire
is to sell their mangy or eczematous dogs, for the immediate
effect of dressing with mercurial ointment
is often almost miraculously good to the eye. Therefore,
my advice to the amateur is, under no circumstances
to purchase a dog which is known to have
suffered from any severe form of skin disease. Even
if the complaint has not been doctored in the way
described, and has been cured by honest methods, it
may always break out again, for it is in the constitution.
I must, of course, except cases in which contagious
eczema has been given to the victim by some
other dog, but in dealing with strangers, shops, or professional
dealers, it is wisest to avoid a purchase where
skin disease has existed.</p>
<p>Some breeds are very much more subject to skin
trouble than others, and all long-haired dogs are apt to
suffer from simple eczema and erythema, the latter
especially when young; while distemper of a severe
kind is often followed by a disease of the skin, closely
resembling mange, for which it is often unfortunately
mistaken. It should be simply treated with a mild
antiseptic ointment, while the constitutional weakness
is the focus for attention.</p>
<p>Puppies often teeth with a rash, called <a name="puppy-pox" id="puppy-pox"></a>puppy-pox,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 63]</span>
which shows as general redness of the skin, generally
on the bare parts of the body, under the forelegs, etc.,
and here and there groups of pustules, each of which
contains a drop of thin pus. This is a complaint allied
to chicken-pox in children, and by no means dangerous—in
fact, a puppy which teethes with such a rash has
generally the making of a strong and healthy dog. At
the same time, whenever either this trouble, or bare
patches about the legs and face, are seen on puppies,
the teeth should be looked to, for it is probable they
are in some way irritating the system.</p>
<p>The existence of too many worms in puppies generally
accompanies skin trouble in the form of <a name="bare_patches" id="bare_patches"></a>bare patches,
which may be well rubbed daily with a sponge dipped
in an extremely simple, safe, and useful lotion, which
I can recommend to be given a trial in all forms of
skin disease, as in no case can it do harm, while in many
cases it will effect a cure so far as any outward application
is capable of doing. It is known as the <a name="Kanofelin" id="Kanofelin"></a>Kanofelin
lotion, a preparation of phenyl, which is not irritating,
or in any way poisonous or disagreeable to the nose,
but has a taste which prevents dogs from licking it
off; should they do so, however, it will not harm them.
The lotion, after being applied and well rubbed in with
the sponge to smooth, bare places, where the skin is
not broken, should be wiped off with a towel or handkerchief,
as it is not wise to leave the dog wet. It
should be used twice a day, and where the skin is
broken, very gently with a soft sponge, and, of course,
no rubbing in.</p>
<p>Some dry and <a name="scaly_skin" id="scaly_skin"></a>scaly skin eruptions, of which pityriasis
is the most common, need different treatment. Where-ever
bare places appearing on the toy dog look scurfy,
and scales fall off, do not use any lotion, nor rub, but
lightly dab on a little zinc ointment if the dog is not
given to licking the parts; if he is, use a plain, rather
thin, <a name="sulphur_ointment" id="sulphur_ointment"></a>sulphur ointment: Sublimated sulphur, 1 oz.;
vaseline, 4 ozs. This latter may also be used in cases
where the Kanofelin lotion is useful, and then be well
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 64]</span>
rubbed in; but the rule is no rubbing when scales or
scurf are present. The Kanofelin ointment is harmless
and useful in all cases. Applications can be much varied
to suit cases, and where violent irritation is present,
it is sometimes necessary to use a more complex preparation
than those mentioned. The poisonous nature
of some of the ingredients, included in the most efficacious
of them, however, makes it very undesirable
to use them otherwise than under the advice of a skilled
surgeon. The following cream is a most useful application
for use in cases where the skin is not broken,
where great irritation and redness of the skin are present,
and where the affected parts either cannot be reached
by the patient, or the latter can be muzzled during
treatment. It is, however, poisonous, on account of
the carbolic acid and lead it contains: Liquor plumbi
diacet., 4 drs.; liquor carbonis detergens, 40 mns.;
boracic acid powder, 1 oz.; new milk, to 4 ozs. Shake
well before use, and apply frequently with a bit of sponge.
Label: <i>Poison</i>.</p>
<p>In the treatment of <a name="medicated_baths" id="medicated_baths"></a>medicated baths, usually composed
of that most evil-smelling compound liver of
sulphur and water—in professional language, "a sulphuretted
potash solution"—I own I have little or no
faith. A plain sulphur ointment is twice as efficacious,
far easier to apply, and has no disagreeable smell;
while, if well rubbed into the skin, as it and other skin
ointments should be, and not left in the hair, it is not
in any way unpleasant.</p>
<p>In all cases where skin trouble is accompanied by
a strong and most unpleasant smell, mange (either
follicular, or, more commonly, sarcoptic), may be suspected.
The latter is easier to cure than many forms of
eczema, but it is absolutely needful to keep the patient
smothered in a dressing of sweet oil and sulphur, than
which there is nothing better, for several days, then to
wash and dress again; and such cases are not suitable
for home treatment, although no veterinary surgeon
should be permitted to apply strong dressings like
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 65]</span>
paraffin, mercurial ointment, or tar (otherwise creosote)
to delicate toys. Mercurial dressings, in all cases, are
rank poison, the absorption of the drug into the system
having fatal effects for the future.</p>
<p>Follicular <a name="mange" id="mange"></a>mange, in which the insect causing the
trouble burrows deep, is a horrible disease, about the
worst a dog can have, and here skilled veterinary assistance
cannot be dispensed with. But it is safe for the
amateur, in all cases of commencing skin trouble, where
there is no smell and the bare patches do not spread
rapidly, to use the phenyl lotion or sulphur or Kanofelin
ointment, according to the state of the skin, and to begin
the more important internal treatment by a complete
change of diet.</p>
<p>A very dry or confined diet, certain meals, as oatmeal
or Indian corn meals, either in biscuits or otherwise;
too little food; more rarely too much; absence of meat
from the dietary, or too little of it; as before, but very
rarely too much—these are all incentives to skin trouble,
while heredity has much to say to a tendency thereto.</p>
<p>A dog which has not been having much meat, but
has been chiefly fed on dog biscuit, may, on the appearance
of skin irritation, be given plenty of good, underdone
meat—roast mutton, sheep's head, and bullock's
heart, all being very suitable. In no case of skin disease
should either oatmeal or Indian corn be given; and sea
air should be avoided, as it is always aggravating to
skin troubles. Tripe is nourishing and very digestible,
and fresh fish suits most of the invalids very well.
Together with the entire change of diet—the hours for
meals need not, of course, be altered—a course of iron
and cod liver oil is always well worth trying. Personally,
I pin my faith to the following method, which
I have known most successful in difficult cases, and
which, as I can say of the other remedies advised in
this little book, can do no harm. Powerful drugs are
often a source of danger in inexperienced hands, and a
good many of the medicines one sees advised are, so
to speak, extremely speculative.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 66]</span>
<p>Get, then, a bottle of cod liver oil and malt, and
1 oz.—or more, if you please—of saccharated carbonate
of iron. In your pet's dinner mix, at first,
well covered over with cut-up meat of extra daintiness,
a scant half-teaspoonful of the solution with a
dust of the iron, which is a sweet powder. Nearly
all dogs will take this without any trouble, and soon
get very fond of the oil, even if they object to it at
first; but they must not see the dose introduced into
the meal. Let them think it an accident, or at any
rate, in the natural way of things, and they are far
less likely to object than if they see you making a
parade of mixing and covering. The dose, given twice
a day, in meat dinner and supper, should be gradually
increased, until a dog of 6 lbs. is taking a full teaspoonful
of the solution twice a day, with 3 grs. of iron to each
dose; and patience will be needed, for, to do any good,
this dosing must go on for at least a month. It may
then be left off gradually, and resumed again if necessary.
In obstinate cases of skin disease, <a name="arsenic" id="arsenic"></a>arsenic is a
most valuable remedy, and may with most effect be
combined with the system of cod liver oil, malt extract,
and saccharated carbonate of iron just described.
Fowler's solution, which is generally recommended,
should not be used, because it contains oil of lavender,
which is very offensive to dogs, and sickens them; the
British Pharmacopœia solution should be the one used.
Of this the dose is from one drop twice a day, to be
gradually increased up to four drops twice a day for
toys; the best way is to get the B.P. solution from
your chemist, mixed with such a quantity of distilled
water as that there are four drops in each teaspoonful.
This may be given with iron and without the cod liver
oil, or with cod liver oil without the iron, or alone,
in food—it is tasteless—but is far better given in combination
with the two. Mr. Appleby, Argyle Street,
Bath, puts up the iron and arsenic together in a very
easily used form, known as the "Kanofelin Blood
Mixture," This, my own formula, I generally advise
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 67]</span>
to my readers whose dogs do not or cannot take cod
liver oil; he also, <i>inter alia</i>, puts up the worm capsules
to my prescription as mentioned for the use of toy dog
owners; and it is sometimes an advantage to get your
medicines ready made.</p>
<p>Arsenic is what is known as a cumulative drug; it
produces no special effect until a good deal is stored up
in the system. When enough has been given, the said
system revolts, and now, when the dog's eyes begin to
look watery, and the mucous membrane lining the
mouth may be a little red, you have given enough, and
must cease; for a time only if the disease is not subdued—in
permanence if it be. One last word—arsenic is the
<i>dernier ressort</i>, and should not be used until other means
have failed, whereas some people fly to it when a much
simpler treatment would have done all that was necessary.</p>
<p><a name="ringworm" id="ringworm"></a>Another skin complaint which, is much more common
than is generally supposed, is ringworm. I have
often seen this diagnosed as eczema, whereas it really
is very easy to tell its true nature, as it has very marked
characteristics.</p>
<p>It begins with tiny, round, bare spots, about as large
as the head of a pin, which usually escape notice at
first, but gradually spread round the edges, not always
in a circular form, but sometimes as irregular patches,
the skin appearing greyish, but not unhealthy. On
looking closely it will be seen that the hairs have been
broken off short, close to the skin, but are clearly visible,
which is the chief feature of the disease and the infallible
sign. Ringworm may be caught at any time, most
frequently from a visit to some infested stable, but
occasionally from chance contagion in the streets.
Horses are subject to the same form of the complaint,
and dogs generally catch it from them; it is sporadic,
and the spores may, of course, fall about anywhere
from an infected horse or another dog. It is extremely
capricious in its inception; dogs in the same house
may or may not catch it from one another, and sometimes
a whole kennel will be infected, with the exception
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 68]</span>
of one or two dogs apparently immune. There is,
however, no excuse for allowing it to spread, as it is
easy to cure. Some of the strongest tincture of iodine
available should be well soaked into the spot, and
round the edges thereof, using a little ball of cotton
wool tied on to the end of a tiny stick, or an aural sponge,
and rubbing the iodine somewhat in with this. Two
applications will generally kill the spores—the disease
is a parasitic fungus—and should be made at an interval
of a couple of days. For some time fresh spots are
likely to appear, and should be touched up at once.
The muzzle, legs, and chest are generally most affected.
If left quite alone the complaint would disfigure the
dog terribly, but would, after a time, die out of its
own accord. I have not found that human subjects
were infected with this disease from the dog. A little
iodide of potassium ointment may be put on the patches
once or twice, to hasten the complete cure, or they
may be washed with the phenyl lotion, in which the
proportion is 1 in 40. The hairs are weakened, and
take some little time to grow properly again, but the
disease is by no means a serious one, and it is not necessary
to use any such stronger and dangerous remedies
as carbolic acid, as sometimes suggested.</p>
<p><a name="Erythema" id="Erythema"></a>Erythema, a general redness and rash, most often
seen over the inside of the thighs, and sometimes all over
a dog's least hairy parts, is about the only skin disease—if
we except the curious and rare condition, "hide-bound"—from
which dogs very occasionally suffer,
that, in a common way, arises from over-feeding. It is
best treated by change of diet, <i>small</i> nourishing meat
meals, and the avoidance of any heating, farinaceous
substances, milk, or greasy food of any kind. A small
dose of sulphate of magnesia twice a week in food—as
much as will lie, not heaped, on sixpence for a 6-lb. dog—is
often all the medicine needful. Want of exercise is
a frequent producer of skin disease. Dogs not sufficiently
exercised, or kept much shut up in hot rooms, have
inactive livers, whence all kinds of evils.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 69]</span>
<p>I have never seen but one case of "hide-bound" in
a house-dog, and that not in a toy. The skin was
thickened and hard. Although the complaint is an interesting
one from its rarity, that same fortunate quality
renders it unnecessary for me to enter into the question—a
veterinary surgeon must undertake such a case.</p>
<p><b><a name="The_Ears" id="The_Ears"></a>The Ears.</b>—The ears in toy dogs are often the seat
of a slight congestion which has no particular cause,
but is more common in some individuals than others,
and generally occurs at intervals in those subjects
which have once had it. If taken early, the cure of
an attack is very simple; but if neglected, the congested
state may increase and culminate in inflammation of
the middle ear, otitis, and the bugbear "canker," of
which we hear so much, and which is really extremely
rare. There are many stages of the trouble, from the
slightly hot and red external ear, which causes the dog
to put two claws in the passage and try to scratch it,
and sometimes succeed in making a sore place thereby,
through the phases of rubbing the side of the head on
the carpet or ground, groaning and shaking the head
violently, and other manifestations of pain, up to the
existence of real canker, when there is much soreness
and redness externally, with swelling of the meatus, or
passage, a profuse and very dark brown discharge, and
a very disagreeable odour.</p>
<p>There is always a slight characteristic smell about a
"bad ear," which any experienced person can recognise
in an instant, often before any other sign of trouble is
seen. Some dogs—most, in fact—need watching in
this respect. The moment the toy is seen to be a little
one-sided as to head, or evinces any disposition to scratch
his ear, a small lump of boric ointment should be put in
the meatus, pushed in with the little finger, and worked
about until it melts down into the passage and convolutions.
Next day the ear may be cleaned out with the
tip of the little finger covered with a very soft handkerchief,
and the ointment again used, and this, in slight
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 70]</span>
cases, will effect a cure. Never attempt to put any hard
instrument, or, indeed, any instrument at all, other than
the soft suppleness of a feeling finger, into a dog's ear.</p>
<p>If the trouble has gone on a good while, and there
is much brown discharge, it will be necessary to use a
lotion. First of all use the ointment, as described, and
clear away as much of the softened discharge as possible
by this means, being, of course, exceedingly gentle in
your manipulation, for these, at best, are very tender
parts. Then take the following lotion: Warm water,
½ pt.; Goulard's extract of lead, 1 tablespoonful;
powdered boracic acid, ½ dr. The boracic powder to
be added to the water first, and the Goulard after, and
the whole on no account to be used otherwise than
nicely warm, or it will cause pain. The bottle can, of
course, be filled at once, and a little of the contents
warmed for use as needed. Lay the patient down
on the sound side, with the bad ear uppermost, and
get someone to hold him firmly. Then gently pour
about half to one teaspoonful of the warm lotion into
the ear, and work it about from outside. Keep him
lying still for three or five minutes, then let him go,
and fly! For he will shake the superfluous lotion all
over you if you are not cautious. A great deal of
remonstrant ploughing about generally follows, but the
application does not really cause any pain, and will
soon cure if persevered with—twice a day for a week
or so. Such frightful and almost, if not quite, incurable
cases as one sometimes meets with in sporting
dogs, where the ears have become thoroughly diseased
from, in the first place, getting wet and dirty, and being
subsequently neglected, are, I rejoice to say, unknown
among well-cared-for toys.</p>
<p><a name="earcarriage" id="earcarriage"></a>People are sometimes alarmed because their puppies'
ears do not stand erect when they should, or are pointing
in all directions but the right when they should drop.
This is a common thing enough during teething, and
will generally come quite right later on. If it does
not, no active remedy—by operation—is permissible
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 71]</span>
if the dog is to be shown, but a good deal can be done
by oiling the ears and manipulating them constantly
in the desired direction by massage, while, in the case
of youngish puppies, two or three thicknesses of horses'
leg bandage plaster, cut to fit the inside and point of
the ear, will either, if stuck in by warming it, help
the ear to drop or to stand up, as is desired. This is
a legitimate "fake," I may remark. But, of course,
the process must not be used with any idea of deception,
though it is allowable to aid Nature in the way she
should go.</p>
<p><b><a name="Eyes" id="Eyes"></a>The Eyes.</b>—The eye of the dog is an even more
delicate structure than the ear, and only skilled surgical
aid should approach it in any but the simplest ailments.
Of these are the simple catarrhal ophthalmia, the
symptoms of which are redness of the lining membrane
of the lids, and a greenish discharge, turning brown
and dry later, which comes from cold and weakness
of constitution. The victim of this must be kept in
an even temperature, be not allowed to lie by the fire,
or look into it, or to go out of doors in wind, hot sunshine,
or cold, and be well fed with good nourishing
meat and light, digestible food. The discharge should
be wiped away from the eyes at morning and evening
with a bit of sponge dipped in a warm boracic lotion
which any chemist will supply of the proper strength;
and immediately afterwards a little bit of yellow oxide
of mercury ointment, about as large as a small split
pea, should be gently introduced under the lid of the
affected eye with a camel's hair brush. Do not, on
any account, accept "<a name="golden_ointment" id="golden_ointment"></a>golden ointment," if the chemist
happens to offer you this old-fashioned remedy (I believe)
for styes! It is made of the <i>red</i> oxide of mercury,
and is a very great deal stronger than the yellow oxide
of mercury ointment, which, by the way, should be
made in the strength of 2 grs. to the ounce. This
latter ointment may also be used where, after distemper,
a bluish film lingers in the eye. <a name="Amaurosis" id="Amaurosis"></a>Amaurosis is not
<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pg_72" id="Pg_72"></a>[Pg 72]</span>
uncommon in the dog. The eyes look perfectly right,
but the dog is blind. This may be an hereditary
condition, but sometimes comes in as a result of weakness
pure and simple. Iron tonics, cod liver oil, nux
vomica, etc., may be given, and sometimes prove
effectual. Good living is essential. These cases are
occasionally cured rather suddenly, but as a rule are
incurable.</p>
<p>Simple <a name="cold_in_the_eyes" id="cold_in_the_eyes"></a>cold in the eyes—or more often, only in one—is
a very ordinary ailment, but distressing both to
sufferer and owner. The affected eye waters more or
less profusely, and is kept partly closed. Within, there
is the same appearance as in catarrhal ophthalmia, but
in a less degree, and there may be fever and constitutional
disturbance, in which case the patient must be
treated for a coryza, or "common cold." A boracic
and poppy-head lotion is the quickest cure for cold
in the eyes, and is also useful in the ophthalmic condition.
It soothes the pain greatly, and is best applied
by means of a small all-indiarubber ball syringe. On
no account must a syringe with a bone or glass or
vulcanite point be used: the indiarubber nozzle is soft,
and from it one or two drops can easily be inserted
between the eyelids. The amount of resistance the
patient makes will be proportionate to the severity of
the inflammation, and as this lessens he will endure
the operation with serenity. To make the lotion at home,
buy a poppy-head, price about a halfpenny, from any
chemist, and boil it for an hour or longer in half a pint
of water, adding to this as it evaporates. When the
water is sherry-coloured, dissolve 10 grs. of boracic acid
powder in each fluid ounce, allow to cool, and use as
frequently as convenient—once every hour, while the
congestion of the lining membrane of the eyelids is
active.</p>
<p><b><a name="Sore_Feet" id="Sore_Feet"></a>Sore Feet.</b>—Eczema, or little boils between the
toes and round the dew-claw on the front legs, is a
trouble which besets some dogs. Constitutional treatment,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 73]</span>
as laid down for eczema, is needful, and as the
dog will invariably worry the sores incessantly by
licking, they should be dusted with zinc or ichthyol
powder, and then bandaged or socked. If a dog is
constantly licking its dew-claw, look at it to make sure
it is not growing in. In this case it needs to be cut
rather short, preferably by a veterinary surgeon, and
the sore dressed. Dew-claws on the hind legs should
always be removed by a veterinary surgeon in puppy-hood.</p>
<p><b><a name="Colds_and_Coughs" id="Colds_and_Coughs"></a>Colds and Coughs.</b>—Colds, or coryza, beset dogs as
they do humans, but in lesser degree. A chest cold
needs a flannel cross-over, sometimes a hot linseed
poultice (in treating dogs it is much better to use, if
possible, some dry poultice which will not leave the
dog sopping after it is removed), or a mustard-leaf.
Rubbing with white vaseline oil and ten drops of turpentine
to each ounce, if vigorously done, is as good
for colds as for rheumatism. Everyone knows what a
cold is, and the toy dog's cold should be treated like
one's own. The clinical thermometer should be used,
and if the temperature exceeds 100°, a pill of 5 grs.
of nitrate of potash should be given every four hours
until it is normal again, or, if it cannot be got down
thus, give ½ gr. of sulphate of quinine and 1 gr. of
phenacetin, using the tabloids, and dividing them as
desired. The strength must be well kept up. <i>Coughs</i>—the
dog's hollow, deep-drawn brand—are a sore trial
to the hearer. They sound terrible, but are seldom
of much moment. If from cold, put a little vaseline
or glycerine on the nose three or four times a day. It
will be licked off, and give relief, while some dogs will
eat glycerine lozenges if not flavoured with lemon.
Vaseline, again, is an excellent thing for bronchial
wheezing, such as pugs are especially subject to, and
will always be taken if put on the nose. Cream
also is soothing, and where is the dog that does not
like it?
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 74]</span>
<p><b><a name="Chest_Diseases" id="Chest_Diseases"></a>Chest Diseases.</b>—The worst-sounding coughs are
often the least important, and may pass off in a few
days without treatment, but a bronchial rattling in the
throat calls for care. Bronchitis in toy dogs must be
treated exactly as in children, and, needless to say, the
dog must not go out until the acute stage is passed.
Most clean dogs will go to a box of earth in a cellar.
A bronchitis kettle must be kept going in the room,
and the patient will need an invalidish diet and much
petting and amusement to carry him through the dull
hours of discomfort. Dogs have congestion of the
lungs, pleurisy, pneumonia, just as people do, and need
the same careful nursing. Medicine in such cases is
usually unnecessary, because it worries the patient and
can do little good. A mild fever mixture may be prescribed
by the vet, who should always be called in the
moment the breathing goes wrong. Dulness, lassitude,
shivering, and a high temperature—the clinical thermometer
is of all things needed here—with troubled
breathing, are symptoms of the highest importance,
and skilled aid should be immediately called to them.
The amateur cannot diagnose these lung and chest
troubles.</p>
<p><b><a name="Stomach_Coughs" id="Stomach_Coughs"></a>Stomach Coughs.</b>—Very dreadful coughs are sometimes
heard proceeding entirely from the stomach. For
these a little course of indigestion treatment often does
wonders. Or, again, coughing <i>may</i> be caused by a
fish-bone or something similar in the throat, though
this is the rarest of all causes in the dog, owing to his
possessing a most tremendous gullet, quite out of proportion
to his size.</p>
<p><b><a name="Shivering" id="Shivering"></a>Shivering.</b>—Shivering is a bad trick some dogs acquire,
and others have by nature. It generally, if
unaccompanied by a high temperature, means nothing
whatever, unless it be nerves. But, short of the Weir
Mitchell treatment, I imagine nothing benefits these
latter more than a mild scolding, with admonitions "not
to be so silly."
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 75]</span>
<p><b><a name="Hysteria" id="Hysteria"></a>Hysteria.</b>—There are, most certainly, hysterical dogs,
and their temperament is that of the habitual shiverer,
though very thin-skinned toys sometimes really shiver
from cold. A hysterical dog will bark itself quite out
of breath at the least disturbance, and shriek exactly
like its prototype human. Nature cannot be changed,
but a tonic sometimes does good. Excitability and nervousness
are characteristic of some breeds. Poms are,
perhaps, the most excitable of small dogs, and pugs
certainly the least so.</p>
<p><b><a name="Obesity" id="Obesity"></a>Obesity.</b>—Extreme fatness may be a disease in the
dog as in the human being, and in this case it is cruel
to accuse the poor creature of systematic over-eating,
as it is everyone's impulse to do. The bromides and
iodides are useful, but cannot be prescribed haphazard.
Thyroid gland tabloids may also be tried, beginning
with one once a day, and gradually creeping up to three
a day, according to the dog's size. Their effect on the
digestion is not always happy, so that the dog must
be watched to assure the owner of its toleration of
them.</p>
<p><b><a name="Poison" id="Poison"></a>Poison.</b>—Not an ailment, but a subject which needs
a few words, is the taking of poison by toy dogs. Unluckily,
there is always risk in a town, not only of the
wilful poisoner, who apparently exists, but of the ingestion
of poisoned meat or bread and butter put for
rats or beetles, and afterwards thrown out. In ninety-nine
cases out of a hundred a poisoned dog has had
strychnine, this being the favourite drug of all those
who employ poison at all. Arsenic is too slow, and
of other poisons, thank Providence! the vulgar have
mostly no knowledge. The symptoms of strychnine
poisoning are, firstly, excitement—the patient runs
about, and barks with a peculiar strident shriek. According
to the quantity of the poison taken and the
quantity of food in the stomach at the time, this stage
occupies a longer or shorter period. Taken shortly
after a good meal, the poison seems less rapid in action
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 76]</span>
than when the stomach is empty. Presently come
convulsions, and constant shrieking; then the limbs
stick out and are perfectly stiff and rigid. Even at
this stage the dog can often be saved if means are at
hand. Never be without a bottle of syrup of chloral
in the house; it will keep indefinitely. First make the
dog sick. Use sulphate of zinc in water, or weak
mustard and warm water, and give plenty of this latter.
The best way is by putting it in a phial, and running
it down the throat by way of a pouch of lower lip
drawn out from the teeth at the angle of the mouth.
As soon as the patient has been sick, give a teaspoonful
of the syrup of chloral in water. This is the antidote
to <a name="strychnine" id="strychnine"></a>strychnine. If you cannot wait to make the patient
sick, give the chloral at once—but give it: and the dose
may be repeated every two hours until the convulsions
cease. For a tiny pup or dog under 5 lbs. the dose may
be halved. Recovery from strychnine is very rapid, and
it leaves, as a rule, no ill effects, though there is a widespread
belief, and a mistaken one, that it subsequently
affects the kidneys.</p>
<p>All the other kinds of poison dogs are likely to get
or be given work as irritants, and these need veterinary
diagnosis. <a name="Salt" id="Salt"></a>Salt, I may here remark, is so violent and
irritating a purgative to the dog that it is next door to
a poison, and the effects of castor oil in his intestine
are not so very far behind. Constant drugging is a
thing as much to be avoided in dogs as in their owners,
and I cannot too strongly deprecate the foolish practice—foolish
or worse—of giving doses of castor oil after
shows, or as so-called prophylactics—preventives of
illness. If a dog has been much confined at a show,
and is likely to be irregular in consequence, a little pure
olive oil with his dinner (not the nut oil often sold by
grocers as olive oil) will do no harm, although a dinner
of oatmeal gruel or boiled sheep's liver would be much
more sensible and act better; if he seems well and
lively, leave him alone. Some people actually go the
length of dosing their puppies with <a name="castor_oil" id="castor_oil"></a>castor oil at intervals,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 77]</span>
for no reason that I can ascertain beyond a vague
idea that it "clears the system." So it does—of
strength and the healthy mucoid secretion of the intestine,
without which natural functions cannot be
properly performed. Syrup of buck-thorn, or cascara
sagrada, is another medicine that should never be given
to small dogs: it is far too irritating and severe. When
we have such excellent aperients as olive oil, magnesia,
and rhubarb among drugs, and boiled sheep's liver
among meats, we want no semi-poisonous irritant
and violent drugs like castor oil, which, in the end,
produce the very condition they were supposed to
cure, and by pulling down the system, open the door
to illness.</p>
<p><b><a name="Fits" id="Fits"></a>Fits.</b>—Of these, epileptic fits are the most dangerous
and by far the least common. A dog suffering from
epilepsy which is thoroughly established, is practically
incurable, in the present state of canine medical science.
Later, perhaps, the Röntgen rays may be beneficially
applied to this disease in dogs, as in human beings.
In a popular manual it is scarcely necessary to go
further into the subject than to say that epilepsy need
not be suspected unless the convulsive attacks are more
or less recurrent, and so frequent as to exhaust the
animal. Not until we have tried such treatment as an
amateur can safely give, which is quite enough to cure
ordinary teething or suckling fits due merely to some
reflex irritation affecting the brain, and found it fail,
need we fear epilepsy; and when we do fear it with
any reason, skilled advice and diagnosis is absolutely
needful, since the case must be watched and treated
on its merits.</p>
<p><a name="Suckling_fits" id="Suckling_fits"></a>Suckling fits are exceedingly common among small,
highly-organised, and sensitive bitches. They generally
begin about the end of the second week of nursing
puppies, and do not seem to be in any way caused by
overstrain; that is, a small female suckling five puppies
is not more likely to suffer from these fits than one only
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 78]</span>
bringing up a brace. Their exact cause is difficult
to determine, since very healthy, well-fed animals may
have them in common with those that are weak and
miserable from under-feeding (which in this case is
synonymous with feeding on a non-meat diet) or kennel
life.</p>
<p>Whatever the cause, the symptoms are always easy
to recognise. The bitch first loses interest in her litter,
though her milk-supply is seldom, if ever, lessened.
She twitches, and her eyes look dull and filmy, or glassy
and staring. She wanders restlessly about, and sometimes
pants in the same way as she did when expecting
her confinement. Now is the time to intervene, and
give one teaspoonful of syrup of chloral with an equal
quantity of water. If this is not done, the attack will
proceed to staggering, shrieking, and more or less violent
convulsions. The administration of the chloral generally
causes the symptoms to subside gradually; but
should the patient be no better in two hours, repeat the
dose, and if giving bromide of potassium in 5-gr. doses
twice or three times a day, immediately after food,
does not keep her right, she must go on taking the
chloral.</p>
<p>Neither chloral nor bromide affects the milk; if any
of it passes therein, the quantity is so very minute as
to make no difference to the puppies. It is not at all
necessary to take the bitch away from her litter; in
fact, it is better to let her go on feeding them. Some
will wish to leave their babies, and these should be taken
to them and shut in with them, four times a day, and
during the night. If she is thoroughly well fed, it never
does the bitch any harm to bring up her family, and it
would be a very great pity for the puppies to be lost
when it is not necessary. But it is exceedingly important
that she should be kept in a state of hyper-nutrition—that
is, that she should have as much good, underdone
meat as she can digest. Bromides are lowering,
and besides this, the state of the nerves demands the
highest possible feeding. It may be expensive to feed
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 79]</span>
a "fitty" bitch on good beefsteak or roast mutton
four times a day, giving her a sponge cake the last thing
at night and a little milk, or, what is much better and
more digestible, a raw new-laid egg or raw fresh cream,
in the early morning; but it is, on the whole, a cheap
way of saving a litter of valuable pups. If there are
a large number of pups, some may be given to a foster-mother;
but as a rule these are difficult to get, and not
often satisfactory. Bromides should always be given
immediately after food; on no account when the stomach
is empty. Chloral may be given at any time when there
is a necessity for it. The 5-gr. bromide tabloids obtainable
at any chemist's are very useful; it is unnecessary
to dissolve them in water for dogs, but, as
before stated, they <i>must</i> be given with or directly after
food.</p>
<p><a name="Teething_fits" id="Teething_fits"></a>Teething fits should be treated, as far as medicine
goes, exactly as suckling fits. Just as a badly-reared,
non-meat-fed bitch who, by reason of an anæmic habit,
harbours worms, is a poor subject for the latter trouble,
so is a puppy that has been brought up on milky slops
and large, wet messes of oatmeal and bread and milk,
and thus has a weakened digestion, very likely to suffer
badly from fits that in a strong young dog would pass
off with small trouble. There is usually some warning
of teething fits, as staring eyes, etc.; but sometimes,
and especially if a puppy of from six to ten months has
been much excited, taken out walking on a hot day,
allowed to play in the sun, or dragged unwillingly on a
lead, they come on very suddenly. While out in hot
sun, the dog may suddenly give a shriek and begin
to run with all his might, taking no notice of calls.
As a general rule, he has the sense to run home,
unless some officious person on the way imagines
him mad and acts as silly people do under such
circumstances.</p>
<p>If it is possible to catch the runaway, he should have
his head covered to keep the light out of his eyes, and be
taken home as quickly and quietly as possible to be shut
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 80]</span>
in some cool and perfectly dark place until the fit passes
off sufficiently to give him a dose of chloral. Afterwards
he should have a diet of minced, underdone meat, with
bromide of potassium to follow, for a day or two. A
plunge into cold water will often stop a fit like this,
but is too heroic a remedy to be safe unless the circumstances
are very urgent. Cold sponging to the head
is good, and quiet and darkness are essential. Some
times teething fits go on increasing in frequency and
severity until they merge into epilepsy, and the dog is
lost. This is occasionally caused by allowing a very
young, highly nervous, and excitable dog to be with
others of the opposite sex, when these should be in
seclusion.</p>
<p>Fits, very much like mild teething fits, are not uncommon
in run-down dogs suffering from anæmia and the
likely corollary, worms. These are often very transient,
and a course of tonic treatment, with rest from excitement,
and good feeding, will banish them.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2>
<p class="center">CLUB STANDARDS, DESCRIPTIONS AND POINTS OF VARIOUS TOY BREEDS</p>
<p><b><a name="Pomeranians" id="Pomeranians"></a>Pomeranians.</b>—These are now divided into Pomeranians
(over 7 lbs.) and Pomeranians Miniature, and
the Committee of the Kennel Club have laid down the
following standard, applying from June 1, 1909:</p>
<p><span class="smcap">The Pomeranian.</span>—<i>Appearance.</i>—The Pomeranian in
build and appearance should be a compact, short-coupled
dog, well-knit in frame. His head and face should be
fox-like, with small erect ears that appear sensible to
every sound. He should exhibit great intelligence in
his expression, docility in his disposition, and activity
and buoyancy in his deportment. In weight and size
the Pomeranian varies considerably. He must be over
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 81]</span>
7 lbs., but preferably he should weigh about 10 to 14 lbs.
<i>Head.</i>—The head should be somewhat foxy in outline or
wedge-shaped, the skull being flat, large in proportion to
the muzzle, which should finish rather fine, and be free
from lippiness. The teeth should be level, and on no
account undershot. The hair on the head and face
must be smooth and short-coated.</p>
<p><span class="smcap">The Pomeranian Miniature</span>—<i>Appearance.</i>—The
Pomeranian Miniature in build and appearance should
be a compact, short-coupled dog. His head and face
should be like a miniature fox, with small, erect, and
very mobile ears, pricked and brought well together,
and in no case lop-eared. He should be full of life, intelligent
in expression, and docile in disposition. The
Pomeranian Miniature should preferably weigh about
3 to 5 lbs., but must not exceed 7 lbs. Dogs above 7 lbs.
must be registered as Pomeranians. Dogs below 7 lbs.
in weight must, at twelve months of age or after, be
registered or re-registered as Pomeranians Miniature,
and being so registered or re-registered, can never compete
in classes for Pomeranians. <i>Head.</i>—The head
should be wedge-shaped and rather foxy in outline, but
the skull may be rounder than the Pomeranian.</p>
<p><span class="smcap">Standard and Scale of Points as laid down by
the Pomeranian Club.</span>—Secretary, G. M. Hicks, Esq.,
Granville House, Blackheath, London, S.E.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> <i>Appearance.</i>—The
Pomeranian in build and appearance should
be a compact, short-coupled dog, well-knit in frame. His
head and face should be fox-like, with small, erect ears,
that appear sensible to every sound; he should exhibit
great intelligence in his expression, docility in his disposition,
and activity and buoyancy in his deportments.—15
points. <i>Head.</i>—Somewhat foxy in outline, or
wedge-shaped, the skull being slightly flat (although in
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 82]</span>
the toy varieties the skull may be rather rounder), large
in proportion to the muzzle, which should finish rather
fine, and be free from lippiness. The teeth should be
level, and on no account undershot. The head in its
profile may exhibit a little "stop," which, however, must
not be too pronounced, and the hair on head and face
must be smooth or short-coated.—5 points. <i>Eyes.</i>—Should
be medium in size, rather oblique in shape, not
set too wide apart, bright and dark in colour, showing
great intelligence and docility of temper. In a white
dog black rims round the eyes are preferable.—5 points.
<i>Ears.</i>—Should be small, and carried perfectly erect, or
pricked like those of a fox, and, like the head, should be
covered with soft, short hair. No plucking or trimming
is allowable.—5 points. <i>Nose.</i>—In black-and-tan, or
white dogs, the nose should be black; in other coloured
Pomeranians it may more often be brown or liver
coloured; but in all cases the nose must be self not
parti-coloured, and never white.—5 points. <i>Neck and
Shoulders.</i>—The neck, if anything, should be rather
short, well set in and lion-like, covered with a profuse
mane and frill of long, straight, glossy hair, sweeping
from under the jaw, and covering the whole of the front
part of the shoulders and chest, as well as flowing on
the top of the shoulders. The shoulders must be tolerably
clean and laid well back.—5 points. <i>Body.</i>—The
back must be short, and the body compact, being well
ribbed up, and the barrel well rounded. The chest
must be fairly deep, and not too wide.—10 points.
<i>Legs.</i>—The forelegs must be perfectly straight, of medium
length—not such as would be termed either "leggy"
or "low on leg"—but in due proportion in length and
strength to a well-balanced frame, and the forelegs and
thighs must be well feathered, the feet small and compact
in shape. No trimming is allowable.—5 points. <i>Coat.</i>—Properly
speaking, there should be two coats, an under
and an over coat—the one a soft, fluffy under coat, the
other a long, perfectly straight and glistening coat,
covering the whole of the body, being very abundant
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 83]</span>
round the neck and forepart of the shoulders and chest,
where it should form a frill of long, flowing hair, extending
over the shoulders, as previously described.
The hindquarters, like those of a collie, should be
similarly clad with long hair or feathering from the top
of the rump to the hocks. The hair on the tail must be
profuse and flowing over the back.—25 points. <i>Tail.</i>—The
tail is a characteristic of the breed, and should
be well twisted right up from the root tightly over the
back, or lying flat on the back, slightly on either side, and
profusely covered with long hair, spreading out and
flowing over the back.—10 points. <i>Colour.</i>—The following
colours are admissible: White, black, blue, brown,
black-and-tan, fawn, sable, red, and parti-colours. The
white must be quite free from lemon or any colour,
and the blacks, blues, browns, black-and-tan, and reds
free from white. A few white hairs in any of the self-colours
shall not absolutely disqualify, but should
carry great weight against the dog. In parti-coloured
dogs, the colours should be evenly distributed on the
body. Whole-coloured dogs with a white foot or feet,
leg or legs, are decidedly objectionable, and should
be discouraged, and cannot compete as whole-coloured
specimens. In mixed classes—<i>i.e.</i>, where whole-coloured
and parti-coloured Pomeranians compete together—the
preference should, if in other points they are equal, be
given to the whole-coloured specimens.—10 points.
Total—100 points.</p>
<div class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> In most cases the names of the Secretaries of the
various clubs are given, but it must be remembered that
an annual re-election takes place.</div><br>
<p>Also catered for by the North of England Pomeranian
Club. Secretary, J. Tweedale, Valley House, Oversley
Ford, Wilmslow; and the Midland Counties Pomeranian
Club. Hon. Secretary, Mrs. E. Parker, Meadowland,
Uttoxeter Road, Derby.</p>
<p><b><a name="Toy_Spanielstd" id="Toy_Spanielstd"></a>Toy Spaniels</b> (English).—Points as defined by the
Toy Spaniel Club. Hon. Secretary, Miss M. Hall, Chalk
Hill House, Norwich. <i>Head.</i>—Should be well domed,
and in good specimens is absolutely semi-globular,
sometimes even extending beyond the half-circle, and
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 84]</span>
absolutely projecting over the eyes, so as nearly to
meet the upturned nose. <i>Eyes.</i>—The eyes are set wide
apart, with the eyelids square to the line of the face—not
oblique or fox-like. The eyes themselves are
large, so as to be generally considered black; their
enormous pupils, which are absolutely of that colour,
increasing the description. From their large size,
there is always a certain amount of weeping shown at
the inner angles; this is owing to a defect in the lachrymal
duct. <i>Stop.</i>—The "stop" or hollow between
the eyes, is well marked, as in the bulldog, or even more
so; some good specimens exhibiting a hollow deep
enough to bury a small marble. <i>Nose.</i>—The nose must
be short and well turned up between the eyes, and
without any indication of artificial displacement afforded
by a deviation to either side. The colour of the end
should be black, and it should be both deep and wide,
with open nostrils. <i>Jaw.</i>—The lower jaw must be wide
between its branches, leaving plenty of space for the
tongue and for the attachment of the lower lips, which
should completely conceal the teeth. It should also be
turned up or "finished," so as to allow of its meeting
the end of the upper jaw, turned up in a similar way, as
above described. <i>Ears.</i>—The ears must be long, so
as to approach the ground. In an average-sized dog
they measure 20 ins. from tip to tip, and some reach
22 ins., or even a trifle more. They should be set low
on the head, and be heavily feathered. In this respect
the King Charles is expected to exceed the Blenheim,
and his ears occasionally extend to 24 ins. <i>Size.</i>—The
most desirable size is from 7 lbs. to 10 lbs. <i>Shape.</i>—In
compactness of shape these spaniels almost rival the
pug, but the length of coat adds greatly to the apparent
bulk, as the body, when the coat is wetted, looks small
in comparison with that dog. Still, it ought to be
decidedly "cobby," with strong, stout legs, broad back,
and wide chest. The symmetry of the toy spaniel is
of importance, but it is seldom that there is any defect
in this respect. <i>Coat.</i>—The coat should be long, silky,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 85]</span>
soft, and wavy, but not curly. In the Blenheim there
should be a profuse mane, extending well down in the
front of the chest. The feather should be well displayed
on the ears and feet, where it is so long as to give
the appearance of their being webbed. It is also carried
well up the backs of the legs. In the King Charles the
feather on the ears is very long and profuse, exceeding
that of the Blenheim by an inch or more. The feather
on the tail (which is cut to the length of about 3½ ins. to
4 ins.) should be silky, and from 5 ins. to 6 ins. in length,
constituting a marked "flag" of a square shape, and
not carried above the level of the back. <i>Colour.</i>—The
colour varies with the breed. The King Charles is a
rich, glossy black, and deep tan; tan spots over the
eyes and on cheeks, and the usual markings on the legs
are also required. The Ruby Spaniel is a rich chestnut
red. The presence of a <i>few</i> white hairs <i>intermixed with
the black</i> on the chest of a King Charles, or <i>intermixed
with the red</i> on the chest of a Ruby Spaniel, shall carry
<i>very great weight against</i> a dog, but shall not in itself
absolutely disqualify; but a white patch on the chest,
or white on any other part of a King Charles or Ruby
Spaniel shall be a disqualification. The Blenheim must
not on any account be whole-coloured, but should have
a ground of pure pearly white, with bright, rich chestnut
or ruby-red marking evenly distributed in large
patches.</p>
<p>The ears and cheeks should be red, with a blaze of
white extending from the nose up to the forehead, and
ending between the ears in a crescentive curve. In
the centre of this blaze there should be a clear "spot"
of red of the size of a sixpence. The tricolour, or
Charles the First Spaniel, should have the tan of the
King Charles, with markings like the Blenheim in black
instead of red on a pearly-white ground. The ears and
under the tail should also be lined with tan. The tricolour
has no spot, that beauty being peculiarly the
property of the Blenheim.</p>
<p>The only name by which the tricolour, or black,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 86]</span>
white, and tan, in future shall be recognised is "Prince
Charles."</p>
<p>That in future the all-red toy spaniel be known by
the name of "Ruby Spaniel." The colour of the nose
to be black. The points of the "Ruby" to be the
same as those of the "King Charles," differing only in
colour.</p><br>
<p class= "center"><span class="smcap">Scale of Points.</span></p>
<p class= "center"><i>King Charles, Prince Charles, and Ruby Spaniels.</i></p><br>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left">Symmetry, condition, and size</td><td align="right"><span class='brt'>20</span></td><td align="left">Eyes</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Head</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>15</span></td><td align="left">Ears</td><td align="right">15</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Stop</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left">Coat and feathering </td><td align="right">15</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Muzzle</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left">Colour</td><td align="right"><u> 10</u></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="right"><span class='brb'> </span></td><td align="right"><span class="smcap">Total</span></td><td align="right">100</td></tr>
</table></div><br>
<p class= "center"><i><a name="Blenheim" id="Blenheim"></a>Blenheim.</i></p>
<br>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="center">Symmetry, condition, and size</td><td align="right"><span class='brt'>15</span></td><td align="left">Ears</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Head</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>15</span></td><td align="left">Coat and feathering </td><td align="right">15</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Stop</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left">Colour and markings</td><td align="right">15</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Muzzle</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left">Spot</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Eyes</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="center"></td><td align="right">——</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="right"><span class='brb'> </span></td><td align="right"><span class="smcap">Total</span> </td><td align="center">100</td></tr>
</table></div><br>
<p><b>The Toy Trawler Spaniel.</b>—This little dog, having
had some classes given for it at shows, deserves notice,
and its standard and scale of points are appended, together
with some remarks made upon it by a lady who
has introduced it, and whose kennel of beautiful Toy
Spaniels of all breeds is well known. <i>Points.</i>—Head
small and light, with very pointed, rather short, nose,
fine and tapery, with a very slight curve upwards of tip
of nose. A curve downwards (as in the Borzoi) should
be an absolute disqualification. The "stop" well
marked, and the skull rather raised, but flat on the top,
not dome-shaped. Muzzle just finished, not overshot.
Long ears, set high, and carried pricked forwards, framing
the face. Large dark eyes, set wide apart, and
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 87]</span>
showing the white when turned. They must be set
perfectly straight, not obliquely, in the head. Whatever
colour the dog may be, the nose and lips must be
black. Neck arched. Back broad and short. Tail set
on a level with the back, and carried gaily, though not
straight up in the air, or curled over the back like a
Pomeranian. It should be docked to about 4 or 5 inches,
and well furnished with long feathering. General
carriage very smart and gay. Legs reasonably short,
and perfectly straight, bone light, though strong. Build
square, sturdy, and compact, but never heavy. The
action should be smart and prancing, coat very curly,
but not woolly. It should be rather silky in texture,
and very glossy. Liberal feathering, waistcoat, and
breechings. Shape is all important; colour a secondary
matter. Best colour a brilliant black, with white waistcoat.
Next, red with white waistcoat, black and white,
and red and white. Best size from 11 to 13 inches at
shoulder. Any tendency to weediness should be carefully
avoided, and the height at shoulders should just
about equal the length from top of shoulders to root of
tail. The size should not be judged by weight, but by
height, as they should weigh heavily for their size. A
dog about 13 inches high should weigh about 15 lbs.
Very small specimens—<i>i.e.</i>, under 9 inches high—are
only desirable if the type, soundness, compactness, and
sturdiness are unimpaired. Feet close, firm, and hard.
They and the lower part of the legs should not be too
heavily feathered. The expression of face should be
very alert, and very sweet. The dogs should be very
bold and courageous. Timidity is a great fault, and
should tell against them in the ring. They are excellent
ratters and rabbiters. As to proportion of head, if the
total length of head be about 6 inches, the ears should
be set about 4 inches apart. The whole head, seen from
a bird's-eye point of view, should be triangle, with the
tip of nose as apex. General appearance should be
that of an exquisitely pretty little sporting dog, very
strong, and exceedingly smart and compact.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 88]</span>
<p>They must <i>not</i> be confounded with Cockers, being a
totally different type.</p><br>
<p class = "center"><span class="smcap">Scale of Points.</span></p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left">General appearance, including condition and smartness</td><td align="right"><span class='brt'>12</span></td><td align="left">Colour</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Coat</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left">Action and soundness of limb</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Head and expression</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>15</span></td><td align="left">Size </td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Eyes</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>6</span></td><td align="left">Compactness, levelness of back, and set of tail</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Curve and proportion of muzzle</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>6</span></td><td align="left">Boldness and alertness </td><td align="right">8</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Set on of ears</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left">Soundness of teeth </td><td align="right">3</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Legs and feet</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="center"></td><td align="center">——</td></tr>
<tr><td align="center"><td align="right"><span class='brb'> </span></td><td align="right"><span class="smcap">Total</span></td><td align="right">100</td></tr>
</table></div><br>
<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Points that should Disqualify.</span></p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left"> 1. A flesh-coloured nose.</td><td align="left"><span class='bl'>6. Light-coloured eyes.</span></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">2. A downward curve of muzzle.</td><td align="left"><span class='bl'>7. Slanting eyes.</span></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">3. No "stop."</td><td align="left"><span class='bl'>8. A very long body.</span></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">4. Hanging lips.</td><td align="left"><span class='bl'>9. Bad action.</span></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">5. Crooked forelegs.</td><td align="left"><span class='bl'> </span></td></tr>
</table></div><br>
<p class= "center"><span class="smcap">Points that are Very Undesirable.</span></p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left"> 1. Timidity.</td><td align="left"><span class='bl'>6. Exaggeration of any kind.</span></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> 2. A straight coat.</td><td align="left"><span class='bl'>7. Drooping tail.</span></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> 3. Low set ears.</td><td align="left"><span class='bl'>8. Showing teeth or tongue.</span></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> 4. Exaggeratedly short or long legs.</td><td align="left"><span class='bl'>9. An "apple" head.</span></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> 5. Sluggishness.</td><td align="left"><span class='bl'> </span></td></tr>
</table></div><br>
<p class = "center"><span class="smcap">Measurements of a Perfect Specimen.</span></p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="center"></td><td align="right"><span class='brt'>Inches.</span></td><td align="center"></td><td align="right">Inches.</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Breadth of skull at eyes from each outside corner of eyes across head</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left">Height at shoulders</td><td align="right">13</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Length of skull</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>4</span></td><td align="left"> Length from top of shoulders to root of tail</td><td align="right">13</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Length of nose</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>2¼</span></td><td align="left"> Length of forelegs to elbow</td><td align="right">7½</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Circumference of skull</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10½</span></td><td align="left"> Breadth at shoulders</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Circumference of muzzle under eyes</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>6¾</span></td><td align="left"> Breadth at quarters</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Space between eyes</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>1⅜</span></td><td align="left"> Girth</td><td align="right">19</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Space between ears when not pricked</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>4¼</span></td><td align="left"> Feathering on tail flag</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Length of ears (leather)</td><td align="right"><span class='brb'>4</span></td><td align="left"> Waistcoat feathering</td><td align="right">4</td></tr>
</table></div><br>
<p><span class="pagenum">[Pg 89]</span>
<p>The origin of the breed is unknown, but it is supposed to
be descended from the original curly King Charles Spaniel
(see Mr. Watson's "Book of the Dog") and the old-fashioned
curly Sussex Spaniel, now extinct. There is no
certainty in this. The breed exists in Italy and Holland.</p>
<p>Toy Spaniels also have the Northern Toy Spaniel
Club. Secretary, Mrs. E. A. Furnival, Eastwood,
Mauldeth Road, Heaton Mersey, Manchester.</p>
<p><b><a name="Griffonstd" id="Griffonstd"></a>Griffons Bruxellois.</b>—Points as defined by the
Griffon Bruxellois Club. Hon. Secretary, Miss L.
Feilding, 48, Grosvenor Gardens, London, S.W. <i>General
Appearance.</i>—A lady's little dog, intelligent, sprightly,
robust, of compact appearance, reminding one of a cob,
and captivating the attention by a quasi-human expression.
<i>Head.</i>—Rounded, and covered with coarse, rough
hairs, somewhat longer round the eyes and on the
nose, lips, and cheeks. <i>Ears.</i>—Erect when clipped,
semi-erect when not clipped. <i>Eyes.</i>—Very large without
being watery, round, nearly black; eyelids edged
with black; eyelashes long and black, leaving the
eye they encircle perfectly uncovered. <i>Nose.</i>—Always
black, short, surrounded with hair converging upwards
and going to meet that which surrounds the eyes;
the break (or stop in the nose) pronounced, but not
exaggerated. <i>Lips.</i>—Edged with black, furnished with
moustache; a little black in the moustache is not a
fault. <i>Chin.</i>—Prominent, without showing the teeth,
and edged by a small beard. <i>Chest.</i>—Rather wide.
<i>Legs.</i>—As straight as possible, of medium length. <i>Tail.</i>—Upward,
and cut to the two-thirds. <i>Colour.</i>—Red.
<i>Texture of Coat.</i>—Harsh and wiry, rather long. <i>Weight.</i>—Light
weight 5 lbs. maximum, and heavy weight
9 lbs. the maximum. <i>Faults.</i>—Brown nose, pale-coloured
eyes, silky tuft on the head, white spot on the chest or paw.</p>
<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Scale of Points.</span></p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left"> Hard coat</td><td align="right"><span class='brt'>15</span></td><td align="left"> Legs and body</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Reddish colour</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left"> Height and size</td><td align="right">3</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Eyes</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>7</span></td><td align="left"> General appearance</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Nose and muzzle</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>7</span></td><td align="center"></td><td align="right"> ——</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Ears</td><td align="right"><span class='brb'>3</span></td><td align="right"> <span class="smcap">Total</span></td><td align="right">60</td></tr>
</table></div><br>
<p><span class="pagenum">[Pg 90]</span>
<p>The Brussels Griffon Club of London (Secretary,
Miss A. F. Hall, 2, Park Place Villas, Maida Hill,
London, W.) offers practically the same standard, but
makes a brown nose, white hairs, and a hanging tongue
disqualify, while as faults it cites light eyes, silky hair
on head, brown nails, and teeth showing; and its description
of the typical coat is as follows:—Texture of
coat harsh and wiry, irregular, rather long and thick.</p>
<p><b><a name="Schipperkestd" id="Schipperkestd"></a>Schipperkes.</b>—The description of the Schipperke
adopted at a general meeting of the Belgian Schipperke
Club, June 19th, 1888, has been adopted by the St.
Hubert Schipperke Club, and is copyright. The Schipperke
Club, England, advances the following scale of
points, and the Secretary is G. H. Killick, Esq., Moor
House, Chorley, Lancashire.</p>
<p><i>Head.</i>—Foxy in type; skull should not be round, but
broad, and with little "stop." The muzzle should be
moderate in length; fine, but not weak; should be well
filled out under the eyes. <i>Nose.</i>—Black and small.
<i>Eyes.</i>—Dark brown, small, more oval than round, and
not full; bright and full of expression. <i>Ears.</i>—Shape:
Of moderate length, not too broad at the base, tapering
to a point. Carriage: Stiffly erect, and, when in that
position, the inside edge to form as near as possible a
right angle with the skull, and strong enough not to
be bent otherwise than lengthways. <i>Teeth.</i>—Strong
and level. <i>Neck.</i>—Strong and full, rather short, set
broad on the shoulders, and slightly arched. <i>Shoulders.</i>—Muscular
and sloping. <i>Chest.</i>—Broad and deep in
brisket. <i>Back.</i>—Short, straight, and strong. <i>Loins.</i>—Powerful,
well drawn up from the brisket. <i>Forelegs.</i>—Perfectly
straight, well under the body, with bone in
proportion to the body. <i>Hindlegs.</i>—Strong, muscular;
hocks well let down. <i>Feet.</i>—Small, catlike, and standing
well on the toes. <i>Nails.</i>—Black. <i>Hindquarters.</i>—Fine
compared to the foreparts; muscular and well-developed
thighs; tailless; rump well rounded. <i>Coat.</i>—Black,
abundant, dense, and harsh, smooth on the
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 91]</span>
head, ears, and legs; lying close on the back and
sides, but erect and thick round the neck, forming a
mane and frill, and well feathered on back of thighs.
<i>Weight.</i>—About 12 lbs. <i>General Appearance.</i>—A small,
cobby animal, with sharp expression, intensely lively,
presenting the appearance of being always on the alert.
<i>Disqualifying Points.</i>—Drop or semi-erect ears. <i>Faults.</i>—White
hairs are objected to, but are not disqualifying.</p><br>
<p class ="center" ><span class="smcap">Relative Value of Points.</span></p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left"> Head, nose, eyes, and teeth</td><td align="right"><span class='brt'>20</span></td><td align="left"> Feet</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Ears</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left"> Hindquarters</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Neck, shoulders, and chest</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left"> Coat and colour</td><td align="right">20</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Back and loins</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left"> General appearance</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Forelegs</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="center"></td><td align="right"> ——</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Hindlegs</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left"> <span class="smcap">Total</span></td><td align="right">100</td></tr>
</table></div><br>
<p>The St. Hubert Schipperke Club standard is practically
identical with that of the Schipperke Club,
England, the only variation being as regards the weight
limits, which this club, however, also fixes at a maximum
of 12 lbs. for small-sized dogs, while it allots
30 points to coat and colour, and none to general
appearance. They also have the Northern Schipperke
Club. Hon. Secretary, T. W. Markland, Ingersley,
Links Gate, St. Anne's-on-the-Sea.</p><br>
<p><b><a name="Pugstd" id="Pugstd"></a>Pugs.</b>—Standard and acknowledged points:</p>
<p class="center"><span class="smcap">The Standard.</span></p>
<br>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left"> Symmetry</td><td align="right"><span class='brt'>10</span></td><td align="left"> Mask</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Size</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left"> Wrinkles</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Condition</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left"> Tail</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Body</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left"> Trace</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Legs</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left"> Coat </td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Feet</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left"> Colour</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Head</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left"> General carriage</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Muzzle</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"> ——</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Ears</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="right"> <span class="smcap">Total</span> </td><td align="left">100</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Eyes</td><td align="right"><span class='brb'>10</span></td></tr>
</table></div><br>
<p><span class="pagenum">[Pg 92]</span>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i100.jpg" width="400" height="309" alt="" title="" >
<span class="caption">BLACK PUG. "Larchmoor Peter Pan," owned by Mrs. Lyle.</span>
</div>
<p><span class="smcap"><a name="blackpugPoints" id="blackpugPoints"></a>Acknowledged Points</span>.</p>
<p><i>Symmetry.</i>—Symmetry and general appearance, decidedly
square and cobby. A lean, leggy pug and a
dog with short legs and a long body are equally objectionable.
<i>Size and Condition.</i>—The pug should be
<i>multum in parvo</i>, but this condensation (if the word may
be used) should be shown by compactness of form, well-knit
proportions, and hardness of developed muscle.
Weight from 13 lbs. to 17 lbs., dog or bitch. <i>Body.</i>—Short
and cobby, wide in chest, and well ribbed up.
<i>Legs.</i>—Very strong, straight, of moderate length, and
well under. <i>Feet.</i>—Neither so long as the foot of the
hare nor so round as that of the cat; well split-up toes,
and the nail black. <i>Muzzle.</i>—Short, blunt, square, but
not up-faced. <i>Head.</i>—Large, massive, round, not
apple-headed, with no indentation of the skull. <i>Eyes.</i>—Dark
in colour, very large, bold, and prominent, globular
in shape, soft and solicitous in expression, very lustrous,
and, when excited, full of fire. <i>Ear.</i>—Thin, small, soft,
like black velvet. There are two kinds, the "rose"
and "button." Preference is given to the latter.
<i>Markings.</i>—Clearly defined. The muzzle or mask, ears,
moles on cheeks, thumb-mark or diamond on forehead,
back-trace, should be as black as possible. <i>Mask.</i>—The
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 93]</span>
mask should be black. The more intense and
well-defined it is the better. <i>Wrinkles.</i>—Large and
deep. <i>Trace.</i>—A black line extending from the occiput
to the tail. <i>Tail.</i>—Curled tightly as possible over the
hip. The double curl is perfection. <i>Coat.</i>—Fine, smooth,
soft, short, and glossy, neither hard nor woolly. <i>Colour.</i>—Silver,
or apricot fawn. Each should be decided, to
make the contrast complete between the colour and the
mask and trace. <i>N.B.</i>—The points of black pugs,
except as to colour, are the same as those for fawns.
The London and Provincial Pug Club. Secretary,
J. Fabian, 460, Camden Road, London, N.</p>
<p><b><a name="Toy_Bulldogsstd" id="Toy_Bulldogsstd"></a>Toy Bulldogs.</b>—<span class="smcap">Points of Toy Bulldogs.</span>—The
general appearance of the toy bulldog must, as nearly as
possible, resemble that of the big bulldog. The skull
should be large, forehead flat, the skin about it well
wrinkled, the "stop" broad and deep, extending up
the middle of the forehead. Eyes of moderate size,
situated low down on the skull, and as wide apart as
possible. Ears to be "rose," if possible; "tulip" ears
are allowable, but not to be encouraged; "button," or
terrier-like ears are a decided fault. Face to be as
short as possible, nose jet black, deeply set back, almost
between the eyes. Muzzle to be short, broad, and
turned upwards. The lower jaw should project considerably
in front of the upper and turn up. Teeth
not to be shown. Neck to be short, with much loose
skin about it. "Frogginess" is objectionable. Chest
to be very wide, round, and deep. Back short and
strong, narrow towards the loins, and broad at the
shoulder. A roach back is desirable. Tail to be short,
and not carried above the back. Forelegs to be short
in proportion to the hindlegs. Hindquarters much
lighter in proportion than forequarters. The most
desirable weight is below 20 lbs., and dogs and bitches
that exceed 22 lbs. should be disqualified. The Miniature
Bulldog Club. Secretary, Miss A. Bruce, 42, Hill Street,
Berkeley Square, London, W.</p><br>
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 94]</span>
<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Scale of Points.</span></p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left"> General appearance and character</td><td align="right"><span class='brt'>10</span></td><td align="left"> Tail</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Head</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>15</span></td><td align="left"> Legs</td><td align="right">15</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Ears</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>15</span></td><td align="left"> Chest</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Body</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="center"></td><td align="right">——</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Size and weight</td><td align="right"><span class='brb'>20</span></td><td align="right"> <span class="smcap">Total</span></td><td align="right"> 100</td></tr>
</table></div>
<br>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i102.jpg" width="400" height="364" alt="" title="" >
<span class="caption">FRENCH TOY BULLDOG. "Barkston Billie," owned by Mrs. Townsend Green.</span>
</div>
<p><span class="smcap">Description and Points of the French Toy Bulldog.</span>—<i>General
Appearance.</i>—The French bulldog ought
to have the appearance of an active, intelligent, and
very muscular dog, of cobby build, and heavy in bone
for its size. <i>Head</i> is of great importance, large and
square. Forehead nearly flat, the muscles of the
cheek well developed, but not prominent. The "stop"
should be as deep as possible. The skin of the head
should not be tight, and the forehead should be well-wrinkled.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 95]</span>
The muzzle should be short, broad, turn
upwards, and be very deep. The lower jaw should project
considerably in front of upper, and should turn up,
but should not show the teeth. <i>The eyes</i> should be
of moderate size and of dark colour. No white should
be visible when the dog is looking straight in front of
him. They should be placed low down and wide apart.
<i>The nose</i> must be black and large. <i>Ears.</i>—Bat ears
ought to be of a medium size, large at the base and
rounded at the tips. They should be placed high on
the head and carried straight. The orifice of the ear
looks forward, and the skin should be fine and soft to
the touch. <i>The neck</i> should be thick, short, and well
arched. <i>The body.</i>—The chest should be wide and
well down between the legs, and the ribs well sprung.
The body short and muscular, and well cut up. The
back should be broad at the shoulder, tapering towards
the loins, preferably well roached. <i>The tail</i> should be
set on low, and be short, thick at the root, tapering to
a point, and should not be carried above the level of the
back. <i>Legs.</i>—The forelegs should be short, straight,
and muscular. The hindquarters, though strong, should
be lighter in proportion to the forequarters. Hocks
well let down. <i>Feet</i> should be compact and strong.
<i>Coat</i> should be of a medium density: black in colour is
very undesirable. Their Club is the Bouledogue Français
Society. Secretary, F. Everard, 11, Milk Street,
London, E.C.</p><br>
<p class = "center"><span class="smcap">Scale of Points.</span></p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left">General appearance and character</td><td align="right"><span class='brt'>15</span></td><td align="left">Ears (bat)</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Skull</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>15</span></td><td align="left">Legs</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Under jaw (special points for)</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left">Chest</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Weight<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></td><td align="right"><span class='br'>20</span></td><td align="left"></td><td align="left">——</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Body</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>15</span></td><td align="left">Total</td><td align="right">100</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left">Tail</td><td align="right"><span class='brb'>5</span></td></tr>
</table></div><br><br>
<div class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> No dog to win the maximum of points unless under
22 lbs. <i>Weights.</i>—When three classes are provided, weights shall
be as follows: (1) Under 20 lbs.; (2) 20 lbs. and under
24 lbs.; (3) 24 lbs. and under 28 lbs.
<br>
When only two classes are provided, weights shall be as
follows: (1) Under 24 lbs.; (2) 24 lbs., not exceeding
28 lbs.
<br>
These weights are subject to alteration.</div><br>
<p><span class="pagenum">[Pg 96]</span>
<p><i><a name="Yorkshirestd" id="Yorkshirestd"></a>Yorkshire Terriers.</i>—Points of the Yorkshire Terrier,
as laid down by the Yorkshire Terrier Club. Secretary,
Mr. F. W. Randall, "The Clone," Hampton-on-Thames.
<i>General Appearance.</i>—Should be that of a
long-coated pet dog, the coat hanging quite straight and
evenly down each side, a parting extending from the
nose to the end of the tail. The animal should be very
compact and neat, the carriage being very upright, and
having an important air. Although the frame is hidden
beneath a mantle of hair, the general outline should be
such as to suggest the existence of a vigorous and well-proportioned
body. <i>Head.</i>—Should be rather small and
flat, not too prominent or round in the skull, nor too
long in the muzzle, with a perfectly black nose. The
fall on the head to be long, of a rich golden tan, deeper
in colour at the sides of the head about the ear roots,
and on the muzzle, where it should be very long. The
hair on the chest a rich bright tan. On no account
must the tan on the head extend on to the neck, nor
must there be any sooty or dark hair intermingled with
any of the tan. <i>Eyes.</i>—Medium, dark, and sparkling,
having a sharp, intelligent expression, and placed so as
to look directly forward. They should not be prominent,
and the edge of the eyelids should be of a dark colour.
<i>Ears.</i>—Small V-shaped, and carried semi-erect or erect,
covered with short hair, colour to be of a very deep rich
tan. <i>Mouth.</i>—Perfectly even, with teeth as sound as
possible. An animal having lost any teeth through
accident not a fault, providing the jaws are even. <i>Body.</i>—Very
compact, and a good loin. Level on the top of
the back. <i>Coat.</i>—The hair on body as long as possible,
and perfectly straight (not wavy), glossy like silk, and
of a fine silky texture. Colour, a dark steel blue (not
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 97]</span>
silver blue) extending from the occiput (or back of
skull) to the root of tail, and on no account mingled
with fawn, bronze, or dark hairs. <i>Legs.</i>—Quite straight,
well covered with hair of a rich golden tan, a few shades
lighter at the ends than at the roots, not extending
higher on the forelegs than the elbow, nor on the hindlegs
than the stifle. <i>Feet.</i>—As round as possible, and
the toe-nails black. <i>Tail.</i>—Cut to medium length;
with plenty of hair, darker blue in colour than the rest
of the body, especially at the end of the tail, and carried
a little higher than the level of the back. <i>Tan.</i>—All tan
hair should be darker at the roots than in the middle,
shading to a still lighter tan at the tips. <i>Weight.</i>—Three
classes: 5 lbs. and under; 7 lbs. and under, but
over 5 lbs.; over 7 lbs.</p>
<p><b>"Silver" Yorkshire.</b>—Points identical with those
of the Standard Yorkshire, as described above, except
colouring, which should be as follows: <i>Back.</i>—Silver.
<i>Head.</i>—Pale tan or straw colour. <i>Muzzle and Legs.</i>—Light
tan. <i>Ears.</i>—A shade darker tan.</p><br>
<p class ="center" ><span class="smcap">Value of Points in Judging.</span></p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left"> Quantity and length of coat</td><td align="right"><span class='brt'>15</span></td><td align="left"> Legs and feet</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Quality and texture of coat</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left"> Tail (carriage of)</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Richness of tan on head and legs</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>15</span></td><td align="left"> Mouth</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Colour of hair on body</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>15</span></td><td align="left"> Formation and general appearance</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Head</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="center"></td><td align="right">——</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Eyes</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="right"> <span class="smcap">Total</span></td><td align="right">100</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Ears</td><td align="right"><span class='brb'>5</span></td><td align="center"></td></tr>
</table></div><br>
<p><b><a name="Italian_Greyhounds" id="Italian_Greyhounds"></a>Italian Greyhounds.</b>—The Italian Greyhound is
somewhat fuller in proportion than the English Greyhound,
and the nose is somewhat shorter. In other respects
this beautiful dog follows the lines of its prototype
as closely as possible, due allowance being made for
difference in size. The colour most prized is a golden
fawn, then cream, or blue fawn, followed by reds and
whites; mixtures are not considered desirable. Coat
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 98]</span>
should be very fine, soft, and glossy. The best size
is that of a dog of about 8 lbs. weight.—From Rawdon
Lee's "Modern Dogs." Hon. Secretary of Club, Mrs.
Scarlett, Went House, West Malling, Kent.</p>
<p><b><a name="Maltesestd" id="Maltesestd"></a>Maltese.</b>—This is probably the oldest of the toy
dogs, having been highly prized by the ladies of ancient
Greece, and doubtless of other nations at the same
time. The coat is very long, straight, and silky (in
first-rate specimens sweeping the ground), quite free
from woolliness and from the slightest curl. Colour,
pure white. Nose should be black, also roof of the
mouth. Ears moderately long, the hair on them
mingling with that on the neck. Tail short and well
feathered, curled tightly over back. Size should not
exceed 5 lbs. or 6 lbs., the smaller the better, other points
being correct.—Rawdon Lee's "Modern Dogs." They
have the Maltese Club of London. Hon. Secretary,
Arthur Stevenson, 52, Holloway Road, N.</p>
<p><b><a name="Poodlestd" id="Poodlestd"></a>Poodles.</b>—Points of the perfect black poodle, as
defined by the Poodle Club. Secretary, Mr. L. W.
Crouch, The Orchard, Swanley Village, Kent. <i>General
Appearance.</i>—That of a very active, intelligent, and
elegant-looking, dog, well built, and carrying himself
very proudly. <i>Head.</i>—Long, straight, and fine, the
skull not broad, with a slight peak at the back. <i>Muzzle.</i>—Long
(but not snipy) and strong; not full in cheek;
teeth white, strong, and level; gums black; lips black
and not showing lippiness. <i>Eyes.</i>—Almond-shaped,
very dark, full of fire and intelligence. <i>Nose.</i>—Black
and sharp. <i>Ears.</i>—The leather long and wide, low set
on, hanging close to the face. <i>Neck.</i>—Well proportioned
and strong, to admit of the head being carried
high and with dignity. <i>Shoulders.</i>—Strong and muscular,
sloping well to the back. <i>Chest.</i>—Deep and
moderately wide. <i>Back.</i>—Short, strong, and slightly
hollowed, the loins broad and muscular, the ribs well
sprung and braced up. <i>Feet.</i>—Rather small and of a
good shape, the toes well arched, pads thick and hard.
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 99]</span>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i107.jpg" width="400" height="297" alt="" title="" >
<span class="caption">POODLES. Photo by J. J. Gibson, Penge.
Champion "Orchard Admiral" and "L'Enfant Prodigue," owned
by Mrs. Crouch.</span>
</div>
<p><i>Legs.</i>—Fore set straight from shoulder, with plenty of
bone and muscle; hindlegs very muscular and well bent,
with the hocks well let down. <i>Tail.</i>—Set on rather
high, well carried, never curled, or carried over back.
<i>Coat.</i>—Very profuse, and of good, hard texture; if
corded, hanging in tight, even cords; if non-corded,
very thick and strong, of even length, the curls close
and thick, without knots or cords. <i>Colours.</i>—All black,
all white, all red, all blue. The white poodle should
have dark eyes, black or very dark liver nose, lips, and
toe-nails. The red poodle should have dark amber
eyes, dark liver nose, lips, and toe-nails. The blue
poodle should be of even colour, and have dark eyes,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 100]</span>
lips, and toe-nails. All the other points of white, red,
and blue poodles should be the same as in the perfect
black poodle. <i>N.B.</i>—It is strongly recommended that
only one-third of the body be clipped or shaved, and
that the hair on the forehead be left on.</p>
<p>Also catered for by the Curly Poodle Club, Hon.
Secretary, Miss F. Brunker, Whippendell House, King's
Langley, Herts.</p><br>
<p class="center" ><span class="smcap">Value of Points.</span></p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left"> General appearance and movement</td><td align="right"><span class='brt'>15</span></td><td align="left"> Legs and feet</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Head and ears</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>15</span></td><td align="left"> Coat, colour, and texture of coat</td><td align="right">15</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Eyes and expression</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left"> Bone, muscle, and condition</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Neck and shoulders</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right">——</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Shape of body, loin, back, and carriage of stern</td><td align="right"><span class='brb'>15</span></td><td align="right"> <span class="smcap">Total</span></td><td align="right">100</td></tr>
</table></div><br>
<p><b>The <a name="Black-and-Tanstd" id="Black-and-Tanstd"></a>Black-and-Tan Terrier.</b>—Points and standard,
as given by the Black-and-Tan Terrier Club.
Secretary, Mr. S. J. Atkinson, 184, Adelaide Road,
London, N.W. <i>Head.</i>—Long, flat, and narrow, level and
wedge-shaped, without showing cheek muscles, well filled
up under the eyes, with tapering, tightly-lipped jaws and
level teeth. <i>Eyes.</i>—Very small, sparkling, and dark,
set fairly close together, and oblong in shape. <i>Nose.</i>—Black.
<i>Ears.</i>—Small and V-shaped, hanging close to
the head above the eye. <i>Neck and Shoulders.</i>—The
neck should be fairly long, and tapering from the
shoulders to the head, with sloping shoulders, the neck
being free from throatiness, and slightly arched at the
occiput. <i>Chest.</i>—Narrow, but deep. <i>Body.</i>—Moderately
short, and curving upwards at the loin; ribs well
sprung; back slightly arched at the loin, and falling
again at the joining of the tail to the same height as
the shoulders. <i>Legs.</i>—Must be quite straight, set on
well under the dog, and of fair length. <i>Feet.</i>—More
inclined to be cat than hare-footed. <i>Tail.</i>—Moderate
length, and set on where the arch of the back ends,
thick where it joins the body, tapering to a point,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 101]</span>
and not carried higher than the back. <i>Coat.</i>—Close,
smooth, short, and glossy. <i>Colour.</i>—Jet black and rich
mahogany tan, distributed over the body as follows:
On the head the muzzle is tanned to the nose, which,
with the nasal bone, is jet black; there is also a bright
tan spot on each cheek and above each eye; the under
jaw and throat are tanned, and the hair inside the ear
is of the same colour. The forelegs tanned up to the
knee, with black lines (pencil marks) up each toe, and
a black mark (thumb mark) above the foot. Inside the
hindlegs tanned, but divided with black at the hock
joint, and under the tail also tanned, and so is the vent,
but only sufficiently to be easily covered by the tail;
also slightly tanned on each side of chest. Tan outside
of hindlegs, commonly called "breeching," a serious
defect. In all cases the black should not run into the
tan, or <i>vice versa</i>, but the division between the two
colours should be well defined. <i>General Appearance.</i>—A
terrier, calculated to take his own part in the rat-pit,
and not of the whippet type. <i>Weight (for toys).</i>—Not
exceeding 7 lbs.</p><br>
<p class = "center"><span class="smcap">Scale of Points.</span></p>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left"> Head </td><td align="right"><span class='brt'>20</span></td><td align="left"> Body</td><td align="right">10</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Eyes</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left"> Tail</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Ears</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>5</span></td><td align="left"> Colour and markings</td><td align="right">15</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Legs</td><td align="right"><span class='br'>10</span></td><td align="left"> General appearance (including terrier quality)</td><td align="right"><u> 15</u></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"> Feet</td><td align="right"><span class='brb'>10</span></td><td align="right"> <span class="smcap">Total</span></td><td align="right">100</td></tr>
</table></div><br><br>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
<img src="images/i110.jpg" width="400" height="335" alt="" title="" >
<span class="caption">PEKINGESE. "Yen Chu of Newnham" owned by Mrs. W. H. Herbert.</span>
</div>
<p><b><a name="Japanesestd" id="Japanesestd"></a>Japanese and Pekingese Spaniels.</b>—Points of
the Japanese spaniel, as set forth by the Japanese and
Pekingese Club. This Club is now divided into the
Japanese Chin Club and the Pekingese Club, the Secretary
of both being Mr. E. T. Cox, 65 and 66, Chancery
Lane, London, E.C. <i>General Appearance.</i>—That of a
lively, highly-bred little dog, with dainty appearance,
smart, compact carriage, and profuse coat. These dogs
should be essentially stylish in movement, lifting the
feet high when in motion, carrying the tail (which is
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 102]</span>
heavily feathered) proudly curved or plumed over the
back. In size they vary considerably, but the smaller
they are the better, provided type and quality are not
sacrificed. When divided by weight, classes should be
for under and over 7 lbs. <i>Coat.</i>—The coat should be
long, profuse, and straight, free from curl or wave, and
not be too flat; it should have a tendency to stand out,
more particularly at the frill, with profuse feathering on
the tail and thighs. <i>Colour.</i>—The dogs should be either
black-and-white or red-and-white—<i>i.e.</i>, parti-coloured.
The term "red" includes all shades of sable, brindle,
lemon, and orange, but the brighter and clearer the red
the better. The white should be clear white, and the
colour, whether black or red, should be evenly distributed
patches over the body, cheek, and ears. <i>Head.</i>—Should
be large for size of dog, with a broad skull,
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 103]</span>
rounded in front; eyes large, dark, set far apart; muzzle
very short and wide, and well cushioned—<i>i.e.</i>, the upper
lips rounded on each side of the nostrils, which should
be large and black, except in the case of red-and-white
dogs, when a brown-coloured nose is as common as a
black one. <i>Ears.</i>—Should be small, set wide apart, and
high on the dog's head, and carried slightly forward,
V-shaped. <i>Body.</i>—Should be squarely and compactly
built, wide in chest, "cobby" in shape. The length of
the dog's body should be about its height. <i>Legs and
Feet.</i>—The legs should be straight and the bone fine;
the feet should be long and hare-shaped. The legs
should be well feathered to the feet on the front legs and
to the thighs behind. The feet should also be feathered.</p>
<p>The points of Pekingese (as given by the same club).
<i>General Appearance.</i>—That of a quaint and intelligent
little dog, rather long in body, with heavy front chest,
and bow legs—<i>i.e.</i>, very much out at elbow—the body
falling away lighter behind. The tail should be carried
right up in a curve over the animal's back, but not too
tightly curled. In size these dogs vary very much, but
the smaller the better, provided type and points are not
sacrificed. When divided by weight, classes should
be for under 10 lbs. and over 10 lbs. <i>Legs.</i>—Should be
short and rather heavy in bone, but not extravagantly
so, as coarseness is to be avoided in every point; they
should be well out at elbow, and the feet turned outwards
also. Both legs and feet should be feathered.
<i>Head.</i>—Should be of medium size, with broad skull,
flat between ears, but rounded on the forehead, muzzle
very short (<i>not</i> underhung), and very wide. The face
should be wrinkled and nostrils black and full. Eyes
large and lustrous; ears set high in the head, and V-shaped;
they should be moderate in size (the tips never
coming below the muzzle), and should be covered with
long, silky hair, which extends much below the leather
of the ear proper. <i>Colour.</i>—These dogs should either
be red, fawn, sable, or brindle, with black masks, face
and ear shadings, or else all black. White patches on
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 104]</span>
feet or chest, although not a disqualification, should
not be encouraged. <i>Coat.</i>—Should be long, flat, and
rather silky, except at the frill, where it should stand
out, like a lion's mane. The feathering on thighs and
tail should be very profuse, and it is preferable that it
should be of a lighter colour than the rest of the coat.</p>
<p>There is also the Pekin Palace Dog Association.
Secretary, Miss L. C. Smythe, 115, Delaware Mansions,
Sutherland Avenue, London, W.</p>
<p>Some other <a name="clubs" id="clubs"></a>clubs are as follows (but it is in many cases
usual to change the Secretary annually, so that these
addresses are not all permanent, though letters generally
find their mark):</p>
<p>Halifax and District Yorkshire Terrier Club (Secretary,
T. Whiteley, 10, High Street, Halifax).</p>
<p>Manchester and District Yorkshire Terrier Club (Secretary,
J. Hardman, 9, Richmond Street, Newton Heath, Manchester).</p>
<p>Oldham Toy Dog Society (Hon. Secretary, A. E. Stansfield,
209, Park Road, Oldham).</p>
<p>Yorkshire Pom Club (Hon. Secretary, E. Poppleton, 1,
Clarendon Street, Wakefield).</p>
<p>Toy Dog Society of Scotland (Secretary, James Cameron,
61, Lothian Road, Edinburgh).</p>
<p>North of England Toy Dog Club (Secretary, R. Weatherhead,
14, Arctic Parade, Great Horton, Bradford).</p>
<p>Toy Dog Society (Secretary, E. T. Cox, 65 and 66, Chancery
Lane, E.C.).
<span class="pagenum">[Pg 105]</span>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2>
<div class="center">
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Abscesses_between_or_on_the_Toes">Abscesses on toes</a>,</td><td align="right">46</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Amaurosis">Amaurosis</a>,</td><td align="right">71</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Anaemia">Anæmia</a>,</td><td align="right">42</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Aperients">Aperients</a>,</td><td align="right">56</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Loss_of_appetite">Appetite, loss of</a>,</td><td align="right">48</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Areca">Areca-nut</a>,</td><td align="right">54</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#arsenic">Arsenic</a>,</td><td align="right">66</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#The_Bad_Doer">Bad doer, the</a>,</td><td align="right">51</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#bare_patches">Bare patches</a>,</td><td align="right">63</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#batears">Bat ears</a>,</td><td align="right">34</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#medicated_baths">Baths, medicated</a>,</td><td align="right">64</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Bilious_Attacks">Biliousness</a>,</td><td align="right">48</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#black-and-tan">Black-and-tan terriers</a>,</td><td align="right">37</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Black-and-Tanstd">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">100</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#black">Black pugs</a>,</td><td align="right">40</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#blackpugPoints">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">92</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Toy_spaniels">Blenheims</a>,</td><td align="right">40</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Blenheim">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">86</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#bones">Bones</a>,</td><td align="right">23</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#THE_CHOICE_OF_BREEDS">Breed, choice of</a>,</td><td align="right">30</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#ON_BREEDING">Breeding</a>,</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Chest_Diseases">Bronchitis</a>,</td><td align="right">74</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Toy_bulldogs">Bulldogs, toy</a>,</td><td align="right">34</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Toy_Bulldogsstd">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">93</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Pg_4">Buying dogs</a>,</td><td align="right">4</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#The_Ears">Canker in ears</a>,</td><td align="right">69</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Bad_Teeth">in teeth</a>,</td><td align="right">45</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Dental_Caries">Caries, dental</a>,</td><td align="right">45</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#castor_oil">Castor oil</a>,</td><td align="right">76</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#catarrhal_distemper">Catarrhal distemper</a>,</td><td align="right">58</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Chest_Diseases">Chest diseases</a>,</td><td align="right">74</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Bilious_Attacks">Chill</a>,</td><td align="right">48</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#clinical">Clinical thermometer</a>,</td><td align="right">48</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#clubs">Clubs, supplementary list</a>,</td><td align="right">104</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Faking">Coat</a>,</td><td align="right">24, <a href="#poor_in_coat">44</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#cod_liver_oil">Cod liver oil</a>,</td><td align="right">44</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#cold_in_the_eyes">Cold in eyes</a>,</td><td align="right">72</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Colds_and_Coughs">Colds</a>,</td><td align="right">73</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Pg_72">Conditioning</a>,</td><td align="right">72</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Colds_and_Coughs">Coughs</a>,</td><td align="right">73</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Sore_Feet">Dew-claws</a>,</td><td align="right">73</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Indigestion">Digestive tonic</a>,</td><td align="right">50</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Disagreeable_Breath">Disagreeable breath</a>,</td><td align="right">51</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#discharge">Discharge after pupping</a>,</td><td align="right">13</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Distemper">Distemper</a>,</td><td align="right">57</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Docking_Puppies">Docking</a>,</td><td align="right">46</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#The_Ears">Ears</a>,</td><td align="right">69</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#earcarriage">to alter carriage of</a>,</td><td align="right">70</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Skin_Troubles">Eczema</a>,</td><td align="right">61, <a href="#Sore_Feet">72</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Entering">Entering dogs for shows</a>,</td><td align="right">27</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Fits">Epilepsy</a>,</td><td align="right">77</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Erythema">Erythema</a> or <a href="#puppy-pox">puppy-pox</a>,</td><td align="right">62, 68</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#etiquette">Etiquette of shows</a>,</td><td align="right">29</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">Exhibiting</a>,</td><td align="right">23</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Eyes">Eyes</a>,</td><td align="right">71</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left">"<a href="#Faking">Faking</a>,"</td><td align="right">23</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Obesity">Fatness or obesity</a>,</td><td align="right">75</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">Feeding of Toys</a>,</td><td align="right">19, <a href="#food">42</a>,<a href="#mange">65</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Sore_Feet">Feet, sore</a>,</td><td align="right">72</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Fits">Fits</a>,</td><td align="right">77</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Toy_Bulldogsstd">French toy bulldog, standard of</a>, </td><td align="right">94</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Stuttgart">Gastritis</a>,</td><td align="right">60</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#golden_ointment">Golden ointment</a>,</td><td align="right">71</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Griffons_Bruxellois">Griffons Bruxellois</a>,</td><td align="right">37</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Griffonstd">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">89</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Hysteria">Hysteria</a>,</td><td align="right">75</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Indigestion">Indigestion</a>,</td><td align="right">50</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Internal_Parasites">Internal parasites</a>,</td><td align="right">52</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#tonic">Iron tonic</a>,</td><td align="right">44</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Italian_Greyhounds">Italian greyhound</a>, standard of,</td><td align="right">97</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Japanese_spaniels">Japanese spaniel</a>,</td><td align="right">35</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Japanesestd">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">101</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Kanofelin">Kanofelin remedies</a>,</td><td align="right">63</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Maltese">Maltese</a>,</td><td align="right">41</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Maltesestd">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">98</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#mange">Mange</a>, follicular and sarcoptic,</td><td align="right">64</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#ON_BREEDING">Mating bitches</a>,</td><td align="right">5</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#meat">Meat diet</a>,</td><td align="right">21, <a href="#food">42</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#cankeredteeth">Mercury</a>,</td><td align="right">45, <a href="#mercurial">62</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#milk">Milk</a>,</td><td align="right">22</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#missing">Missing</a>,</td><td align="right">8</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Eyes">Ophthalmia</a>,</td><td align="right">71</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Japanese_spaniels">Pekingese spaniels</a>,</td><td align="right">35</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Japanesestd">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">101</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#scaly_skin">Pityriasis</a>,</td><td align="right">63</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Poison">Poison</a>,</td><td align="right">75</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Pom">Pomeranians</a>,</td><td align="right">31</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Pomeranians">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">80</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Poodles">Poodles</a>,</td><td align="right">26</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Poodlestd">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">98</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">Preparing for exhibition</a>,</td><td align="right">23</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Toy_pugs">Pugs</a>,</td><td align="right">39</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Pugstd">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">91</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#pup">Puppies, birth of</a>,</td><td align="right">9</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#house">house for</a>,</td><td align="right">14</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#rear">rearing of</a>,</td><td align="right">14</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#pupsize">size of</a>,</td><td align="right">6</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#puppy-pox">skin troubles of</a>,</td><td align="right">62</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#training">training of</a>,</td><td align="right">18</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">Pupping</a>,</td><td align="right">9</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#puppy-pox">Rashes</a>,</td><td align="right">62</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Relapse">Relapse from distemper</a>,</td><td align="right">59</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#paraphernalia">Requisites for shows</a>,</td><td align="right">28</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#ringworm">Ringworm</a>,</td><td align="right">67</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#round">Round worms</a>,</td><td align="right">55</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Salt">Salt</a>,</td><td align="right">76</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#scavenging">Scavenging</a>,</td><td align="right">20</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Schipperkes">Schipperkes</a>,</td><td align="right">32</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Schipperkestd">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">90</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#season">Season</a>,</td><td align="right">7</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Shivering">Shivering</a>,</td><td align="right">74</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#principal">Shows, chief</a>,</td><td align="right">30</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#shy_dog">Shyness in ring</a>,</td><td align="right">29</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Skin_Troubles">Skin diseases</a>,</td><td align="right">61</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Stomach_Coughs">Stomach coughs</a>,</td><td align="right">74</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#strychnine">Strychnine</a>,</td><td align="right">76</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Stuttgart">Stuttgart disease</a>,</td><td align="right">49, 60</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Suckling_fits">Suckling fits</a>,</td><td align="right">77</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#sulphur_ointment">Sulphur ointment</a>,</td><td align="right">63</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Internal_Parasites">Tape-worms</a>,</td><td align="right">52</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#tear-channels">Tear channels</a>,</td><td align="right">42</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Bad_Teeth">Teeth, bad</a>,</td><td align="right">45</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Dentition">Teething</a>,</td><td align="right">17</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Teething_fits">fits</a>,</td><td align="right">79</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#taking">Temperature, to take</a>,</td><td align="right">49</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Dental_Caries">Toothache</a>,</td><td align="right">46</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Toy_Spanielstd">Toy spaniels, standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">83</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Washing">Washing</a>,</td><td align="right">26</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#vermifuge">Worm medicines</a>,</td><td align="right">54</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"></td><td align="right"></td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"><a href="#Yorkshire">Yorkshire terriers</a>,</td><td align="right">38</td></tr>
<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left"> <a href="#Yorkshirestd">standard of</a>,</td><td align="right">96</td></tr>
</table></div><br>
<p><span class="pagenum">[Pg 107]</span>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<p class='smaller center'>BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD.</p>
<p class='smaller center'><b><u>FROM MR. EDWARD ARNOLD'S LIST.</u></b></p>
<p class='smaller center'>BY THE SAME AUTHOR.</p>
<p class='larger center'>DARLING DOGS.</p>
<p class='smaller center'>BY<br>
MARGARET LILITH WILLIAMS.<br>
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.<br>
Price 5s. net.</p><br>
<p><span class="smcap">Times.</span>—"An attractive book of talk, light and serious, and
of experiences of many kinds, about dogs in the particular and
in the abstract by an enthusiast."</p>
<p><span class="smcap">Globe.</span>—"A delightful volume, especially so to dog-lovers."</p>
<p><span class="smcap">World.</span>—"That it is written by one whose heart and soul
is in her subject is apparent in the first few pages, and for that
very reason they go straight to the heart of every dog-lover.
Altogether, a charming volume, excellently illustrated."</p>
<p><span class="smcap">Daily Express.</span>—"An account of the intimate life of certain
dogs, and to those who make dear friends and companions of
them it may be confidently recommended."</p>
<p><span class="smcap">Evening Standard.</span>—"Practical as well as enthusiastic."</p>
<p><span class="smcap">Lady's Field.</span>—"All women who really love dogs—and
perhaps all those who love animals of any kind—will like to have
'Darling Dogs,' ... charmingly illustrated and written from
the author's heart."</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;">
<p class='smaller center'>LONDON: EDWARD ARNOLD, 41 & 43 MADDOX ST., W.</p>
<pre>
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