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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/38997-8.txt b/38997-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bc5622b --- /dev/null +++ b/38997-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10563 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 1 of +2), by Frances Milton Trollope + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 1 of 2) + +Author: Frances Milton Trollope + +Release Date: February 27, 2012 [EBook #38997] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PARIS AND THE PARISIANS IN 1835 *** + + + + +Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Note: + + Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have + been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. + + Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. + + The errata listed at the end of the "Embellishments" were corrected + in this edition. + + + + + PARIS AND THE PARISIANS + IN 1835. + VOL. I. + + + + + Preparing for publication, by the same Author, + In 3 vols. post 8vo. with 15 Characteristic Engravings. + + THE LIFE AND ADVENTURES + OF + JONATHAN JEFFERSON WHITLAW + OR, + SCENES ON THE MISSISSIPPI. + + + + + PARIS AND THE PARISIANS, + IN 1835. + + VOL. I. + + [Illustration: Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu.] + + LONDON: + RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. + Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty, + 1835. + + + + + PARIS + AND + THE PARISIANS + IN 1835. + + BY FRANCES TROLLOPE, + AUTHOR OF "DOMESTIC MANNERS OF THE AMERICANS," + "TREMORDYN CLIFF," &c. + + "Le pire des états, c'est l'état populaire."--CORNEILLE. + + IN TWO VOLUMES. + + VOL. I. + + LONDON: + RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, + Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty. + 1836. + + + + + LONDON: + PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, + Dorset Street, Fleet Street. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +From the very beginning of reading and writing--nay, doubtless from +the very beginning of speaking,--TRUTH, immortal TRUTH has been the +object of ostensible worship to all who read and to all who listen; +and, in the abstract, it is unquestionably held in sincere veneration +by all: yet, in the detail of every-day practice, the majority of +mankind often hate it, and are seen to bear pain, disappointment, and +sorrow more patiently than its honoured voice when it echoes not their +own opinion. + +Preconceived notions generally take a much firmer hold of the mind +than can be obtained by any statement, however clear and plain, which +tends to overthrow them; and if it happen that these are connected +with an honest intention of being right, they are often mistaken for +principles;--in which case the attempt to shake them is considered not +merely as a folly, but a sin. + +With this conviction strongly impressed upon my mind, it requires some +moral courage to publish these volumes; for they are written in +conformity to the opinions of ... perhaps none,--and, worse still, +there is that in them which may be considered as contradictory to my +own. Had I before my late visit to Paris written a book for the +purpose of advocating the opinions I entertained on the state of the +country, it certainly would have been composed in a spirit by no means +according in all points with that manifested in the following pages: +but while profiting by every occasion which permitted me to mix with +distinguished people of all parties, I learnt much of which I was--in +common, I suspect, with many others--very profoundly ignorant. I found +good where I looked for mischief--strength where I anticipated +weakness--and the watchful wisdom of cautious legislators, most +usefully at work for the welfare of their country, instead of the +crude vagaries of a revolutionary government, active only in leading +blindfold the deluded populace who trusted to them. + +The result of this was, first a wavering, and then a change of +opinion,--not as to the immutable laws which should regulate +hereditary succession, or the regret that it should ever have been +deemed expedient to violate them--but as to the wisest way in which +the French nation, situated as it actually is, can be governed, so as +best to repair the grievous injuries left by former convulsions, and +most effectually to guard against a recurrence of them in future. + +That the present policy of France keeps these objects steadily in +view, and that much wisdom and courage are at work to advance them, +cannot be doubted; and those most anxious to advocate the sacred cause +of well-ordered authority amongst all the nations of the earth should +be the first to bear testimony to this truth. + + London, December 1835. + + + + + CONTENTS + TO + THE FIRST VOLUME. + + + LETTER I. + Difficulty of giving a systematic account of what is doing + in France.--Pleasure of revisiting Paris after long + absence.--What is changed; what remains the same. Page 1 + + LETTER II. + Absence of the English Embassy.--Trial of the Lyons + Prisoners.--Church of the Madeleine.--Statue of Napoleon. 7 + + LETTER III. + Slang.--Les Jeunes Gens de Paris.--La Jeune France. + --Rococo.--Décousu. 12 + + LETTER IV. + Théâtre Français.--Mademoiselle Mars.--Elmire.--'Charlotte + Brown.'--Extract from a Sermon. 17 + + LETTER V. + Exhibition of Living Artists at the Louvre.--The + Deluge.--Poussin and Martin.--Portraits.--Appearance of the + company. 22 + + LETTER VI. + Society.--Morality.--False Impressions and False Reports. + --Observations from a Frenchman on a recent publication. 32 + + LETTER VII. + Alarm created by the Trial of the Lyons Prisoners.--Visits + from a Republican and from a Doctrinaire: reassured + by the promises of safety and protection received from the + latter. 41 + + LETTER VIII. + Eloquence of the Pulpit.--L'Abbé Coeur.--Sermon at + St. Roch.--Elegant Congregation.--Costume of the younger + Clergy. 50 + + LETTER IX. + Literature of the Revolutionary School.--Its low estimation + in France. 59 + + LETTER X. + Lonchamps.--The "Three Hours' Agony" at St. Roch.--Sermons + on the Gospel of Good-Friday.--Prospects of the Catholics. + --O'Connell. 66 + + LETTER XI. + Trial Chamber at the Luxembourg.--Institute.--M. Mignet. + --Concert Musard. 76 + + LETTER XII. + Easter-Sunday at Notre Dame.--Archbishop.--View of + Paris.--Victor Hugo.--Hôtel Dieu.--Mr. Jefferson. 83 + + LETTER XIII. + "Le Monomane". 91 + + LETTER XIV. + The Gardens of the Tuileries.--Legitimatist.--Republican. + --Doctrinaire.--Children.--Dress of the Ladies.--Of the + Gentlemen.--Black Hair.--Unrestricted Admission.--Anecdote. 101 + + LETTER XV. + Street Police.--Cleaning Beds.--Tinning Kettles.--Building + Houses.--Loading Carts.--Preparing for the Scavenger.--Want + of Drains.--Bad Pavement.--Darkness. 112 + + LETTER XVI. + Preparations for the Fête du Roi.--Arrival of Troops.--Champs + Elysées.--Concert in the Garden of the Tuileries.--Silence + of the People.--Fireworks. 120 + + LETTER XVII. + Political chances.--Visit from a Republican.--His high + spirits at the prospects before him.--His advice to me + respecting my name.--Removal of the Prisoners from + Ste. Pélagie.--Review.--Garde de Paris.--The National + Guard. 130 + + LETTER XVIII. + First Day of the Trials.--Much blustering, but no riot.--All + alarm subsided.--Proposal for inviting Lord B----m + to plead at the Trial.--Society.--Charm of idle conversation. + --The Whisperer of good stories. 141 + + LETTER XIX. + Victor Hugo.--Racine. 151 + + LETTER XX. + Versailles.--St. Cloud. 170 + + LETTER XXI. + History of the Vicomte de B----. His opinions.--State + of France.--Expediency. 180 + + LETTER XXII. + Père Lachaise.--Mourning in public.--Defacing the Tomb + of Abelard and Eloïsa.--Baron Munchausen.--Russian + Monument.--Statue of Manuel. 189 + + LETTER XXIII. + Remarkable People.--Distinguished People.--Metaphysical + Lady. 196 + + LETTER XXIV. + Expedition to the Luxembourg.--No admittance for + Females.--Portraits of "Henri."--Republican Costume.--Quai + Voltaire.--Mural Inscriptions.--Anecdote of Marshal + Lobau.--Arrest. 206 + + LETTER XXV. + Chapelle Expiatoire.--Devotees seen there.--Tri-coloured + flag out of place there.--Flower Market of the Madeleine. + --Petites Maîtresses. 220 + + LETTER XXVI. + Delicacy in France and in England.--Causes of the + difference between them. 227 + + LETTER XXVII. + Objections to quoting the names of private individuals. + --Impossibility of avoiding Politics.--_Parceque_ and + _Quoique_.--Soirée Antithestique. 237 + + LETTER XXVIII. + New Publications.--M. de Lamartine's "Souvenirs, Impressions, + Pensées, et Paysages."--Tocqueville and Beaumont.--New + American regulation.--M. Scribe.--Madame + Tastu.--Reception of different Writers in society. 249 + + LETTER XXIX. + Sunday in Paris.--Family Groups.--Popular Enjoyment. + --Polytechnic Students.--Their resemblance to the figure + of Napoleon.--Enduring attachment to the Emperor. + --Conservative spirit of the English Schools.--Sunday in + the Gardens of the Tuileries.--Religion of the Educated. + --Popular Opinion. 257 + + LETTER XXX. + Madame Récamier.--Her Morning Parties.--Gérard's + Picture of Corinne.--Miniature of Madame de Staël.--M. + de Châteaubriand.--Conversation on the degree in which + the French Language is understood by Foreigners.--The + necessity of speaking French. 269 + + LETTER XXXI. + Exhibition of Sèvres China at the Louvre.--Gobelins and + Beauvais Tapestry.--Legitimatist Father and Doctrinaire + Son.--Copies from the Medicean Gallery. 281 + + LETTER XXXII. + Eglise Apostolique Française.--Its doctrine.--L'Abbé Auzou. + --His Sermon on "les Plaisirs Populaires." 290 + + LETTER XXXIII. + Establishment for Insane Patients at Vanves.--Description + of the arrangements.--Englishman.--His religious madness. 307 + + LETTER XXXIV. + Riot at the Porte St. Martin.--Prevented by a shower + of Rain.--The Mob in fine weather.--How to stop Emeutes. + --Army of Italy.--Théâtre Français.--Mademoiselle Mars + in Henriette.--Disappearance of Comedy. 319 + + LETTER XXXV. + Soirée dansante.--Young Ladies.--Old Ladies.--Anecdote.--The + Consolations of Chaperones.--Flirtations.--Discussion upon + the variations between young Married Women in France and in + England.--Making love by deputy.--Not likely to answer in + England. 329 + + LETTER XXXVI. + Improvements of Paris.--Introduction of Carpets and + Trottoirs.--Maisonnettes.--Not likely to answer in Paris. + --The necessity of a Porter and Porter's Lodge.--Comparative + Expenses of France and England.--Increasing Wealth of the + Bourgeoisie. 347 + + LETTER XXXVII. + Horrible Murder.--La Morgue.--Suicides.--Vanity. + --Anecdote.--Influence of Modern Literature.--Different + appearance of Poverty in France and England. 358 + + LETTER XXXVIII. + Opéra Comique.--"Cheval de Bronze."--"La Marquise." + --Impossibility of playing Tragedy.--Mrs. Siddons's + Readings.--Mademoiselle Mars has equal power.--_Laisser + aller_ of the Female Performers.--Decline of Theatrical + Taste among the Fashionable. 371 + + LETTER XXXIX. + The Abbé de Lamennais.--Cobbett.--O'Connell.--Napoleon. + --Robespierre. 381 + + LETTER XL. + Which Party is it ranks second in the estimation of + all?--No Caricatures against the Exiles.--Horror of a + Republic. 389 + + LETTER XLI. + M. Dupré.--His Drawings in Greece.--L'Eglise des + Carmes.--M. Vinchon's Picture of the National Convention. + --Léopold Robert's Fishermen.--Reported cause of his + Suicide.--Roman Catholic Religion.--Mr. Daniel O'Connell. 400 + + LETTER XLII. + Old Maids.--Rarely to be found in France.--The reasons + for this. 408 + + + + + EMBELLISHMENTS + TO + THE FIRST VOLUME. + + + Louvre Page 30 + + Morning at the Tuileries Gardens 106 + + "Pro Patria" 140 + + "Ce soir, à la Porte St. Martin."--"J'y serai." 218 + + Tuileries Gardens (on Sunday) 264 + + Porte St. Martin 322 + + +P. 155, line 2, _read_ given--P. 224, line 23, _read_ new. + + + + + PARIS + AND THE PARISIANS + IN 1835. + + + + +LETTER I. + + Difficulty of giving a systematic account of what is doing in + France.--Pleasure of revisiting Paris after long absence.--What + is changed; what remains the same. + + + Paris, 11th April 1835. + + MY DEAR FRIEND, + +In visiting Paris it certainly was my intention to describe in print +what I saw and heard there; and to do this as faithfully as possible, +I proposed to continue my old habit of noting in my journal all +things, great and small, in which I took an interest. But the task +frightens me. I have been here but a few days, and I already find +myself preaching and prosing at much greater length than I approve: I +already feel that I am involved in such a mizmaze of interesting +subjects, that to give anything like an orderly and well-arranged +digest of them, would beguile me into attempting a work greatly +beyond my power to execute. + +The very most I can hope to do will be but to "skim lightly over the +surface of things;" and in addressing myself to you, I shall feel less +as if I were about to be guilty of the presumption of writing "a work +on France," than if I threw my notes into a less familiar form. I will +then discourse to you, as well as I may, of such things as leave the +deepest impression among the thousand sights and sounds in the midst +of which I am now placed. Should it be our will hereafter that these +letters pass from your hands into those of the public, I trust that +nobody will be so unmerciful as to expect that they shall make them +acquainted with everything past, present, and to come, "respecting the +destinies of this remarkable country." + +It must indeed be a bold pen that attempts to write of "Young France," +as it is at present the fashion to call it, with anything like a +reasonable degree of order and precision, while still surrounded by +all the startling novelties she has to show. To reason of what she has +done, what she is doing, and--more difficult still--of what she is +about to do, would require a steadier head than most persons can +command, while yet turning and twisting in all directions to see what +this Young France looks like. + +In truth, I am disposed to believe that whatever I write about it +will be much in the style of the old conundrum-- + + "I saw a comet rain down hail + I saw a cloud" &c. + +And here you will remember, that though the things seen are stated in +the most simple and veracious manner, much of the meaning is occult, +depending altogether upon the stopping or pointing of the narrative. +This stopping or pointing I must leave to you, or any other readers I +may happen to have, and confine myself to the plain statement of "I +saw;" for though it is sufficiently easy to see and to hear, I feel +extremely doubtful if I shall always be able to understand. + +It is just seven years and seven months since I last visited the +capital of the "Great Nation." The interval is a long one, as a +portion of human life; but how short does it appear when the events +that it has brought forth are contemplated! I left the white banner of +France floating gaily over her palaces, and I find it torn down and +trampled in the dust. The renowned lilies, for so many ages the symbol +of chivalric bravery, are everywhere erased; and it should seem that +the once proud shield of St. Louis is soiled, broken, and reversed for +ever. + +But all this was old. France is grown young again; and I am assured +that, according to the present condition of human judgment, everything +is exactly as it should be. Knighthood, glory, shields, banners, +faith, loyalty, and the like, are gone out of fashion; and they say it +is only necessary to look about me a little, to perceive how +remarkably well the present race of Frenchmen can do without them;--an +occupation, it is added, which I shall find much more profitable and +amusing than lamenting over the mouldering records of their ancient +greatness. + +The good sense of this remonstrance is so evident, that I am +determined henceforth to profit by it; remembering, moreover, that, as +an Englishwoman, I have certainly no particular call to mourn over the +fading honours of my country's rival. So in future I shall turn my +eyes as much as I can from the tri-coloured flag--(those three stripes +are terribly false heraldry)--and only think of amusing myself; a +business never performed anywhere with so much ease as at Paris. + +Since I last saw it, I have journeyed half round the globe; but +nothing I have met in all my wanderings has sufficed to damp the +pleasure with which I enter again this gay, bright, noisy, restless +city,--this city of the living, as beyond all others it may be justly +called. + +And where, in truth, can anything be found that shall make its air of +ceaseless jubilee seem tame?--or its thousand depôts of all that is +prettiest in art, lose by comparison with any other pretty things in +the wide world? Where do all the externals of happiness meet the eye +so readily?--or where can the heavy spirit so easily be roused to seek +and find enjoyment? Cold, worn-out, and dead indeed must the heart be +that does not awaken to some throb of pleasure when Paris, after long +absence, comes again in sight! For though a throne has been +overturned, the Tuileries still remain;--though the main stock of a +right royal tree has been torn up, and a scion sprung from one of the +roots, that had run, wildly enough, to a distance, has been barricaded +in, and watered, and nurtured, and fostered into power and strength of +growth to supply its place, the Boulevards, with their matchless +aspect of eternal holiday, are still the same. No commotion, however +violent, has yet been able to cause this light but precious essence of +Parisian attractiveness to evaporate; and while the very foundations +of society have been shaken round them, the old elms go on, throwing +their flickering shadows upon a crowd that--allowing for some vagaries +of the milliner and tailor--might be taken for the very same, and no +other, which has gladdened the eye and enlivened the imagination since +first their green boughs beckoned all that was fairest and gayest in +Paris to meet together beneath them. + +Whilst this is the case, and while sundry other enchantments that may +be named in their turn continue to proclaim that Paris is Paris +still, it would be silly quarrelling with something better than +bread-and-butter, did we spend the time of our abode here in dreaming +of what has been, instead of opening our eyes and endeavouring to be +as much awake as possible to look upon all that is. + + Farewell! + + + + +LETTER II. + + Absence of the English Embassy.--Trial of the Lyons + Prisoners.--Church of the Madeleine.--Statue of Napoleon. + + +It may be doubtful, perhaps, whether the present period[1] be more +favourable or unfavourable for the arrival of English travellers at +Paris. The sort of interregnum which has taken place in our embassy +here deprives us of the centre round which all that is most gay among +the English residents usually revolves; but, on the other hand, the +approaching trial of the Lyons prisoners and their Parisian +accomplices is stirring up from the very bottom all the fermenting +passions of the nation. Every principle, however quietly and +unobtrusively treasured,--every feeling, however cautiously +concealed,--is now afloat; and the most careless observer may expect +to see, with little trouble, the genuine temper of the people. + +The genuine temper of the people?--Nay, but this phrase must be mended +ere it can convey to you any idea of what is indeed likely to be made +visible; for, as it stands, it might intimate that the people were of +one temper; and anything less like the truth than this cannot easily +be imagined. + +The temper of the people of Paris upon the subject of this "atrocious +trial," as all parties not connected with the government are pleased +to call it, varies according to their politics,--from rage and +execration to ecstasy and delight--from indifference to +enthusiasm--from triumph to despair. + +It will be impossible, my friend, to ramble up and down Paris for +eight or nine weeks, with a note-book in my hand, without recurring +again and again to a theme that meets us in every _salon_, murmurs +through the corridors of every theatre, glares from the eyes of the +republican, sneers from the lip of the doctrinaire, and in some shape +or other crosses our path, let it lead in what direction it may. + +This being inevitable, the monster must be permitted to protrude its +horns occasionally; nor must I bear the blame should it sometimes +appear to you a very tedious and tiresome monster indeed. Having +announced that its appearance may be frequently expected, I will leave +you for the present in the same state of expectation respecting it +that we are in ourselves; and, while we are still safe from its +threatened violence, indulge in a little peaceable examination of the +still-life part of the picture spread out before me. + +The first objects that struck me as new on re-entering Paris, or +rather as changed since I last saw them, were the Column of the Place +Vendôme, and the finished Church of the Madeleine. Finished indeed! +Did Greece ever show any combination of stones and mortar more +graceful, more majestic than this? If she did, it was in the days of +her youth; for, poetical association apart, and the unquestionably +great pleasure of learned investigation set aside, no ruin can +possibly meet the eye with such perfect symmetry of loveliness, or so +completely fill and satisfy the mind, as does this modern temple. + +Why might not our National Gallery have risen as noble, as simple, as +beautiful as this? + +As for the other novelty--the statue of the sometime Emperor of the +French, I suspect that I looked up at it with rather more approbation +than became an Englishwoman. But in truth, though the name of Napoleon +brings with it reminiscences which call up many hostile feelings, I +can never find myself in Paris without remembering his good, rather +than his terrible actions. Perhaps, too, as one gazes on this brazen +monument of his victories, there may be something soothing in the +recollection that the bold standard he bore never for an instant +wantoned on a British breeze. + +However, putting sentiment and personal feeling of every kind apart, +so much that is admirable in Paris owes its origin to him, that his +ambition and his usurpations are involuntarily forgotten, and the use +made of his ill-gotten power almost obliterates the lawless tyranny of +the power itself. The appearance of his statue, therefore, on the top +of the column formed of the cannon taken by the armies of France when +fighting under his command, appeared to me to be the result of an +arrangement founded upon perfect propriety and good taste. + +When his effigy was torn down some twenty years ago by the avenging +hands of the Allies, the act was one both of moral justice and of +natural feeling; and that the rightful owners of the throne he had +seized should never have replaced it, can hardly be matter of +surprise: but that it should now again be permitted to look down upon +the fitful fortunes of the French people, has something of historic +propriety in it which pleases the imagination. + +This statue of Napoleon offers the only instance I remember in which +that most grotesque of European habiliments, a cocked-hat, has been +immortalized in marble or in bronze with good effect. The original +statue, with its flowing outline of Roman drapery, was erected by a +feeling of pride; but this portrait of him has the every-day familiar +look that could best satisfy affection. Instead of causing the eye to +turn away as it does from some faithful portraitures of modern +costume with positive disgust, this _chapeau à trois cornes_, and the +well-known loose _redingote_, have that air of picturesque truth in +them which is sure to please the taste even where it does not touch +the heart. + +To the French themselves this statue is little short of an idol. Fresh +votive wreaths are perpetually hung about its pedestal; and little +draperies of black crape, constantly renewed, show plainly how fondly +his memory is still cherished. + +While Napoleon was still among them, the halo of his military glory, +bright as it was, could not so dazzle the eyes of the nation but that +some portentous spots were discerned even in the very nucleus of that +glory itself; but now that it shines upon them across his tomb, it is +gazed at with an enthusiasm of devoted affection which mixes no memory +of error with its regrets. + +It would, I think, be very difficult to find a Frenchman, let his +party be what it might, who would speak of Napoleon with disrespect. + +I one day passed the foot of his gorgeous pedestal in company with a +legitimate _sans reproche_, who, raising his eyes to the statue, +said--"Notre position, Madame Trollope, est bien dure: nous avons +perdu le droit d'être fidèles, sans avoir plus celui d'être fiers." + +FOOTNOTE: + +[1] April 1835. + + + + +LETTER III. + + Slang.--Les Jeunes Gens de Paris.--La Jeune + France.--Rococo.--Décousu. + + +I suppose that, among all people and at all times, a certain portion +of what we call slang will insinuate itself into familiar colloquial +intercourse, and sometimes even dare to make its unsanctioned accents +heard from the tribune and the stage. It appears to me, I confess, +that France is at present taking considerable liberties with her +mother-tongue. But this is a subject which requires for its grave +discussion a native critic, and a learned one too. I therefore can +only venture distantly and doubtingly to allude to it, as one of the +points at which it appears to me that innovation is visibly and +audibly at work. + +I know it may be said that every additional word, whether fabricated +or borrowed, adds something to the riches of the language; and no +doubt it does so. But there is a polished grace, a finished elegance +in the language of France, as registered in the writings of her +Augustan age, which may well atone for the want of greater +copiousness, with which it has been sometimes reproached. To increase +its strength, by giving it coarseness, would be like exchanging a +high-mettled racer for a dray-horse. A brewer would tell you, that you +gained in power what you lost in grace: it may be so; but there are +many, I think, even in this age of operatives and utilitarians, who +would regret the change. + +This is a theme, however, as I have said before, on which I should not +feel myself justified in saying much. None should pretend to examine, +or at any rate to discuss critically, the niceties of idiom in a +language that is not native to them. But, distinct from any such +presumptuous examination, there are words and phrases lawfully within +the reach of foreign observation, which strike me as remarkable at the +present day, either from their frequent recurrence, or for something +of unusual emphasis in the manner in which they are employed. + +_Les jeunes gens de Paris_ appears to me to be one of these. Translate +it, and you find nothing but "the young men of Paris;" which should +seem to have no more imposing meaning than "the young men of London," +or of any other metropolis. But hear it spoken at Paris--Mercy on me! +it sounds like a thunderbolt. It is not only loud and blustering, +however; you feel that there is something awful--nay, mystical, +implied by the phrase. It appears solemnly to typify the power, the +authority, the learning--ay, and the wisdom too, of the whole nation. + +_La Jeune France_ is another of these cabalistic forms of speech, by +which everybody seems expected to understand something great, +terrible, volcanic, and sublime. At present, I confess that both of +these, pronounced as they always are with a sort of mysterious +emphasis, which seems to say that "more is meant than meets the ear," +produce rather a paralysing effect upon me. I am conscious that I do +not clearly comprehend all the meaning with which they are pregnant, +and yet I am afraid to ask, lest the explanation should prove either +more unintelligible or more alarming than even the words themselves. I +hope, however, that ere long I shall grow more intelligent or less +timid; and whenever this happens, and I conceive that I fully +comprehend their occult meaning, I will not fail to transmit it +faithfully to you. + +Besides these phrases, and some others that I may perhaps mention +hereafter as difficult to understand, I have learned a word quite new +to me, and which I suspect has but very recently been introduced into +the French language; at least, it is not to be found in the +dictionaries, and I therefore presume it to be one of those happy +inventions which are permitted from time to time to enrich the power +of expression. How the Academy of former days might have treated it, I +know not; but it seems to me to express a great deal, and might at +this time, I think, be introduced very conveniently into our own +language: at any rate, it may often help me, I think, as a very +useful adjective. This new-born word is "_rococo_," and appears to me +to be applied by the young and innovating to everything which bears +the stamp of the taste, principles, or feelings of time past. That +part of the French population to whom the epithet of _rococo_ is thus +applied, may be understood to contain all varieties of old-fashionism, +from the gentle advocate for laced coats and diamond sword-knots, up +to the high-minded venerable loyalist, who only loves his rightful +king the better because he has no means left to requite his love. Such +is the interpretation of _rococo_ in the mouth of a doctrinaire: but +if a republican speaks it, he means that it should include also every +gradation of orderly obedience, even to the powers that be; and, in +fact, whatever else may be considered as essentially connected either +with law or gospel. + +There is another adjective which appears also to recur so frequently +as fully to merit, in the same manner, the distinction of being +considered as fashionable. It is, however, a good old legitimate word, +admirably expressive too, and at present of more than ordinary +utility. This is "_décousu_;" and it seems to be the epithet now given +by the sober-minded to all that smacks of the rambling nonsense of the +new school of literature, and of all those fragments of opinions which +hang so loosely about the minds of the young men who discourse +fashionably of philosophy at Paris. + +Were the whole population to be classed under two great divisions, I +doubt if they could be more expressively designated than by these two +appellations, the _décousu_ and the _rococo_. I have already stated +who it is that form the _rococo_ class: the _décousu_ division may be +considered as embracing the whole of the ultra-romantic school of +authors, be they novelists, dramatists, or poets; all shades of +republicans, from the avowed eulogists of the "spirited Robespierre" +to the gentler disciples of Lamennais; most of the schoolboys, and all +the _poissardes_ of Paris. + + + + +LETTER IV. + + Théâtre Français.--Mademoiselle Mars.--Elmire.--Charlotte + Brown.--Extract from a Sermon. + + +It was not without some expectation of having "Guilty of rococoism" +recorded against me, that I avowed, very soon after my arrival, the +ardent desire I felt of turning my eyes from all that was new, that I +might once again see Mars perform the part of Elmire in the +"Tartuffe." + +I was not quite without fear, too, that I was running some risk of +effacing the delightful recollections of the past, by contemplating +the change which seven years had made. I almost feared to let my +children behold a reality that might destroy their _beau idéal_ of the +only perfect actress still remaining on the stage. + +But "Tartuffe" was on the bills: it might not soon appear again; an +early dinner was hastily dispatched, and once more I found myself +before the curtain which I had so often seen rise to Talma, Duchenois, +and Mars. + +I perceived with great pleasure on reaching the theatre, that the +Parisians, though fickle in all else, were still faithful in their +adoration of Mademoiselle Mars: for now, for perhaps the five +hundredth representation of her Elmire, the barricades were as +necessary, the _queue_ as long and as full, as when, fifteen years +ago, I was first told to remark the wonderful power of attraction +possessed by an actress already greatly past the first bloom of youth +and beauty. Were the Parisians as defensible in their ordinary love of +change as they are in this singular proof of fidelity, it would be +well. It is, however, strange witchery. + +That the ear should be gratified, and the feelings awakened, by the +skilful intonations of a voice the sweetest perhaps that ever blest a +mortal, is quite intelligible; but that the eye should follow with +such unwearied delight every look and movement of a woman, not only +old--for that does sometimes happen at Paris--but one known to be so +from one end of Europe to the other, is certainly a singular +phenomenon. Yet so it is; and could you see her, you would understand +why, though not how, it is so. There is still a charm, a grace, in +every movement of Mademoiselle Mars, however trifling and however +slight, which instantly captivates the eye, and forbids it to wander +to any other object--even though that object be young and lovely. + +Why is it that none of the young heads can learn to turn like hers? +Why can no arms move with the same beautiful and easy elegance? Her +very fingers, even when gloved, seem to aid her expression; and the +quietest and least posture-studying of actresses contrives to make the +most trifling and ordinary movement assist in giving effect to her +part. + +I would willingly consent to be dead for a few hours, if I could +meanwhile bring Molière to life, and let him see Mars play one of his +best-loved characters. How delicious would be his pleasure in +beholding the creature of his own fancy thus exquisitely alive before +him; and of marking, moreover, the thrill that makes itself heard +along the closely-packed rows of the parterre, when his wit, conveyed +by this charming conductor, runs round the house like the touch of +electricity! Do you think that the best smile of Louis le Grand could +be worth this? + +Few theatrical pieces can, I think, be calculated to give less +pleasure than that of "Charlotte Brown," which followed the +"Tartuffe;" but as the part of Charlotte is played by Mademoiselle +Mars, people will stay to see it. I repented however that I did not +go, for it made me cross and angry. + +Such an actress as Mars should not be asked to try a _tour de force_ +in order to make an abortive production effective. And what else can +it be called, if her touching pathos and enchanting grace are brought +before the public, to make them endure a platitude that would have +been hissed into oblivion ere it had well seen light without her? It +is hardly fair to expect that a performer should create as well as +personate the chief character of a piece; but Mademoiselle Mars +certainly does nothing less, when she contrives to excite sympathy and +interest for a low-born and low-minded woman, who has managed to make +a great match by telling a great falsehood. Yet "Charlotte Brown" is +worth seeing for the sake of a certain tragic look given by this +wonderful actress at the moment when her falsehood is discovered. It +is no exaggeration to say, that Mrs. Siddons never produced an +expression of greater power. + +It is long since I have seen any theatre so crowded. + +I remember many years ago hearing what I thought an excellent sermon +from a venerable rector, who happened to have a curate more remarkable +for the conscientious manner in which he performed his duty to the +parish, and the judicious selection of his discourses, than for the +excellence of his original sermons. "It is the duty of a minister," +said the old man, "to address the congregation which shall assemble to +hear him with the most impressive and most able eloquence that it is +within the compass of his power to use; and far better is it that the +approved wisdom of those who have passed away be read from the pulpit, +than that the weak efforts of an ungifted preacher should fall wearily +and unprofitably on the ears of his congregation. The fact that his +discourse is manuscript, instead of printed, will hardly console them +for the difference." + +Do you not think--with all reverence be it spoken--that the same +reasoning might be very usefully addressed to the managers of +theatres, not in France only, but all the world over? If it cost too +much to have a good new piece, would it not be better to have a good +old one? + + + + +LETTER V. + + Exhibition of Living Artists at the Louvre.--The + Deluge.--Poussin and Martin.--Portraits.--Appearance of the + company. + + +I have been so little careful about dates and seasons, as totally to +have forgotten, or rather neglected to learn, that the period of our +arriving at Paris was that of the Exhibition of Living Artists at the +Louvre: and it is not easy to describe the feeling produced by +entering the gallery, with the expectation of seeing what I had been +used to see there, and finding what was, at least, so very different. + +Nevertheless, the exhibition is a very fine one, and so greatly +superior to any I had heretofore seen of the modern French school, +that we soon had the consolation of finding ourselves amused, and I +may say delighted, notwithstanding our disappointment. + +But surely there never was a device hit upon so little likely to +propitiate the feelings which generate applause, as this of covering +up Poussin, Rubens, Raphael, Titian, and Correggio, by hanging before +them the fresh results of modern palettes. It is indeed a most +un-coquettish mode of extorting attention. + +There are some pictures of the Louvre Gallery in particular, with +which my children are well acquainted, either by engravings or +description, whose eclipse produced a very sad effect. "The Deluge" of +Poussin is one of these. Perhaps it may have been my brother's +striking description of this picture which made it pre-eminently an +object of interest to us. You may remember that Mr. Milton, in his +elegant and curious little volume on the Fine Arts, written at Paris +just before the breaking up of Napoleon's collection, says in speaking +of it--"Colouring was unquestionably Poussin's least excellence; yet +in this collection there is one of his pictures--the Deluge--in which +the effect produced by the mere colouring is most singular and +powerful. The air is burdened and heavy with water; the earth, where +it is not as yet overwhelmed, seems torn to pieces by its violence: +the very light of heaven is absorbed and lost." I give you this +passage, because I remember no picture described with equal brevity, +yet brought so powerfully before the imagination of the reader. + +Can the place where one comes to look for this be favourable for +hanging our illustrious countryman's representation of the same +subject? It is doing him a most ungratifying honour; and were I Mr. +Martin, or any other painter living, I would not consent to be +exposed to the invidious comparisons which must inevitably ensue from +such an injudicious arrangement. + +How exceedingly disagreeable, for instance, must it be for the +artists--who, I believe, not unfrequently indulge themselves by +hovering under the incognito of apparent indifference near their +favourite works--to overhear such remarks as those to which I listened +yesterday in that part of the gallery where Le Sueur's St. Brunos +hang!--"Certainly, the bows on that lady's dress are of a delicate +blue," said the critic; "and so is the drapery of Le Sueur, which, for +my sins, I happen to know is hid just under it.... Would one wish a +better contrast to what it hides, than that unmeaning smile--that +cold, smooth, varnished skin,--those lifeless limbs, and the whole +unspeakable tameness of this thing, called _portrait d'une dame_?" + +He spoke truly; yet was there but little point in what he said, for it +might have referred with equal justice to many a pretty lady doomed to +simper for ever in her gilded frame. + +On the whole, however, portraits are much less oppressively +predominating than with us; and among them are many whose size, +composition, and exquisite style of finishing redeem them altogether +from the odium of being _de trop_ in the collection. I cannot but wish +that this style of portrait-painting may find favour and imitation in +England. + +Lawrence is gone; and though Gérard on this side of the water, and +indeed too many to rehearse on both, are left, whose portraitures of +the human face are admirable; true to nature; true to art; true to +expression,--true, even to the want of it; I am greatly inclined to +believe that the enormous sums annually expended on these clever +portraits contribute more to lower than to raise the art in popularity +and in the genuine estimation of the public. The sums thus lavished +may be termed patronage, certainly; but it is patronage that bribes +the artist to the restraint, and often to the destruction, of his +genius. + +Is there, in fact, any one who can honestly deny that a splendid +exhibition-room, crowded with ladies and gentlemen on canvass, as +large as life, is a lounge of great tediousness and inanity? + +We may feel some satisfaction in recognising at a glance the eyes, +nose, mouth, and chin of many of our friends and acquaintance,--nay, +our most critical judgment may often acknowledge that these familiar +features are registered with equal truth and skill; but this will not +prevent the exhibition from being very dull. Nor is the thing much +mended when each portrait, or pair of portraits, has been withdrawn +from the gaudy throng, and hung up for ever and for ever before the +eyes of their family and friends. The fair lady, sweetly smiling in +one division of the apartment, and the well-dressed gentleman looking +_distingué_ in another, contribute as little at home as they did when +suspended on the walls of the academy to the real pleasure and +amusement of the beholder. + +At the exhibition this year at the Louvre are many exquisite +full-length portraits in oil, of which the canvass measures from +eighteen inches to a foot in height, and from a foot to ten inches in +width. The composition and style of these beautiful little pictures +are often such as to detain one long before them, even though one does +not recognise in them the features of an acquaintance. Their +unobtrusive size must prevent their ever being disagreeably +predominant in the decoration of a room; while their delicate and +elaborate finish, and the richness of their highly-studied +composition, will well reward attention; and even the closest +examination, when directed to them, either by politeness, affection, +or connoisseurship, can never be disappointed. + +The Catalogue of the exhibition notices all the pictures which have +been either ordered or purchased by the king or any of the royal +family; and the number is so considerable as to show plainly that the +most liberal and widely-extended patronage of art is a systematic +object with the government. + +The gold medal of the year has been courteously bestowed upon Mr. +Martin for his picture of the Deluge. Had I been the judge, I should +have awarded it to Stuben's Battle of Waterloo. That the faculty of +imagination is one of the highest requisites for a painter is most +certain; and that Mr. Martin pre-eminently possesses it, not less so. +But imagination, though it can do much, cannot do all; and common +sense is at least equally important in the formation of a finished +artist. The painter of the great day of Waterloo has both. His +imagination has enabled him to dive into the very hearts and souls of +the persons he has depicted. Passion speaks in every line; and common +sense has taught him, that, however powerful--nay, vehement, might be +the expression he sought to produce, it must be obtained rather by the +patient and faithful imitation of Nature than by a bold defiance of +her. + +The Assassination of the Duc de Guise, by M. Delaroche, is an +admirable and highly popular work. It requires some patient +perseverance to contest inch by inch the slow approach to the place +where this exquisite piece of finishing is hung--but it well rewards +the time and labour. One or two lovely little pictures by Franquelin +made me envy those who have power to purchase, and sigh to think that +they will probably go into private collections, where I shall never +see them more. There are, indeed, many pictures so very good, that I +think it possible the judges may have relieved themselves from the +embarrassment of declaring which was best, by politely awarding the +palm to the stranger. + +I could indulge myself, did I not fear to weary you, by dwelling much +longer upon my agreeable recollections of this extensive +exhibition--containing, by the way, 2,174 pictures,--and might +particularise many very admirable works. Nevertheless, I must repeat, +that thus hiding the precious labours of all schools, and of all ages +of painting, by the promiscuous productions of the living artists of +France during the last year, is a most injudicious device for winning +for them the golden opinions of those who throng from all quarters of +the world to visit the Louvre. + +This exhibition reaches to about three-fourths of the gallery; and +where it ceases, a grim curtain, suspended across it, conceals the +precious labours of the Spanish and Italian schools, which occupy the +farther end. Can anything be imagined more tantalising than this? And +where is the living artist who could stand his ground against such +cruel odds? + +To render the effect more striking still, this dismal curtain is +permitted so to hang as to leave a few inches between its envious +amplitude and the rich wall--suffering the mellow browns of a +well-known Murillo to meet and mock the eye. Certainly not all the +lecturers of all the academies extant could point out a more effectual +manner of showing the modern French artist wherein he chiefly fails: +let us hope he will profit by it. + +As I am writing of Paris, it must be almost superfluous to say that +the admission to this collection is gratis. + +I cannot quit the subject without adding a few words respecting the +company, or at least a part of it, whose appearance, I thought, gave +very unequivocal marks of the march of mind and of indecorum;--for a +considerable sprinkling of very particularly greasy citizens and +citizenesses made itself felt and seen at every point where the +critical crowd was thickest. But-- + + "Sweetest nut hath sourest rind;" + +and it were treason here, I suppose, to doubt that such a proportion +of intellect and refinement lies hid under the soiled _blouse_ and +time-worn petticoat, as is at least equal to any that we may hope to +find enveloped in lawn, and lace, and broadcloth. + +It is an incontrovertible fact, I think, that when the immortals of +Paris raised the barricades in the streets, they pulled them down, +more or less, in society. But this is an evil which those who look +beyond the present hour for their sources of joy and sorrow need not +deeply lament. Nature herself--at least such as she shows herself, +when man, forsaking the forest, agrees with his fellows to congregate +in cities--Nature herself will take care to set this right again. + + "Strength will be lord of imbecility;" + +and were all men equal in the morning, they would not go to rest till +some amongst them had been thoroughly made to understand that it was +their lot to strew the couches of the rest. Such is the law of nature; +and mere brute numerical strength will no more enable a mob to set it +aside, than it will enable the ox or the elephant to send us to +plough, or draw out our teeth to make their young one's toys. + +For the present moment, however, some of the rubbish that the +commotion of "the Ordonnances" stirred up may still be seen floating +about on the surface; and it is difficult to observe without a smile +in what chiefly consists the liberty which these immortals have so +valiantly bled to acquire. We may truly say of the philosophical +population of Paris, that "they are thankful for small matters;" one +of the most remarkable of their newly-acquired rights being certainly +the privilege of presenting themselves dirty, instead of clean, before +the eyes of their magnates. + + [Illustration: Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu. + LOUVRE. + London, Published by Richard Bentley, 1835.] + +I am sure you must remember in days of yore,--that is to say, before +the last revolution,--how very agreeable a part of the spectacle at +the Louvre and in the Tuileries Gardens was constituted by the +people,--not the ladies and gentlemen--they look pretty much the same +everywhere; but by the careful coquetry of the pretty costumes, now a +_cauchoise_, and now a _toque_,--the spruce neatness of the men who +attended them,--nay, even by the tight and tidy trimness of the "wee +things" that in long waist, silk apron, snow-white cap, and +faultless _chaussure_, trotted beside them. All these added greatly to +the pleasantness and gaiety of the scene. But now, till the fresh dirt +(not the fresh gloss) of the Three Days' labour be worn off, dingy +jackets, uncomely _casquettes_, ragged _blouses_, and ill-favoured +round-eared caps, that look as if they did duty night and day, must +all be tolerated; and in this toleration appears to consist at present +the principal external proof of the increased liberty of the Parisian +mob. + + + + +LETTER VI. + + Society.--Morality.--False Impressions and False + Reports.--Observations from a Frenchman on a recent + publication. + + +Much as I love the sights of Paris,--including as we must under this +term all that is great and enduring, as well as all that is for ever +changing and for ever new,--I am more earnestly bent, as you will +readily believe, upon availing myself of all my opportunities for +listening to the conversation within the houses, than on contemplating +all the marvels that may be seen without. + +Joyfully, therefore, have I welcomed the attention and kindness that +have been offered me in various quarters; and I have already the +satisfaction of finding myself on terms of most pleasant and familiar +intercourse with a variety of very delightful people, many of them +highly distinguished, and, happily for me, varying in their opinions +of all things both in heaven and earth, from the loftiest elevation of +the _rococo_, to the lowest profundity of the _décousu_ school. + +And here let me pause, to assure you, and any other of my countrymen +and countrywomen whose ears I can reach, that excursions to Paris, be +they undertaken with what spirit of enterprise they may, and though +they may be carried through with all the unrestrained expense that +English wealth can permit, yet without the power by some means or +other of entering into good French society, they are nothing worth. + +It is true, that there is something most exceedingly exhilarating to +the spirits in the mere external novelty and cheerfulness of the +objects which surround a stranger on first entering Paris. That +indescribable air of gaiety which makes every sunshiny day look like a +fête; the light hilarity of spirit that seems to pervade all ranks; +the cheerful tone of voice, the sparkling glances of the numberless +bright eyes; the gardens, the flowers, the statues of Paris,--all +together produce an effect very like enchantment. + +But "use lessens marvel;" and when the first delightful excitement is +over, and we begin to feel weary from its very intensity, the next +step is backward into rationality, low spirits, and grumbling. + +From that moment the English tourist talks of nothing but wide rivers, +magnificent bridges, prodigious _trottoirs_, unrivalled drains, and +genuine port. It is at this stage that the traveller, in order to +continue his enjoyment and bring it to perfection, should remit his +examination of the exterior of noble _hôtels_, and endeavour to be +admitted to the much more enduring enchantment which prevails within +them. + +So much has already been said and written on the grace and charm of +the French language in conversation, that it is quite needless to +dwell upon it. That _good things_ can be said in no other idiom with +equal grace, is a fact that can neither be controverted nor more +firmly established than it is already. Happily, the art of expressing +a clever thought in the best possible words did not die with Madame de +Sévigné; nor has it yet been destroyed by revolution of any kind. + +It is not only for the amusement of an hour, however, that I would +recommend the assiduous cultivation of good French society to the +English. Great and important improvements in our national manners have +already arisen from the intercourse which long peace has permitted. +Our dinner-tables are no longer disgraced by inebriety; nor are our +men and women, when they form a party expressly for the purpose of +enjoying each other's society, separated by the law of the land during +half the period for which the social meeting has been convened. + +But we have much to learn still; and the general tone of our daily +associations might be yet farther improved, did the best specimens of +Parisian habits and manners furnish the examples. + +It is not from the large and brilliant parties which recur in every +fashionable mansion, perhaps, three or four times in each season, +that I think we could draw much improvement. A fine party at Lady +A----'s in Grosvenor Square, is not more like a fine party at Lady +B----'s in Berkeley Square, than a fine party in Paris is to one in +London. There are abundance of pretty women, handsome men, satin, +gauze, velvet, diamonds, chains, stars, moustaches, and imperials at +both, with perhaps very little deserving the name of rational +enjoyment in either. + +I suspect, indeed, that we have rather the advantage on these crowded +occasions, for we more frequently change the air by passing from one +room to another when we eat our ices; and as the tulip-tinctured +throng enjoy this respite from suffocation by detachments, they have +often not only opportunity to breathe, but occasionally to converse +also, for several minutes together, without danger of being dislodged +from their standing-ground. + +It is not, therefore, at the crowded roll-calls of all their +acquaintance that I would look for anything rational or peculiar in the +_salons_ of Paris, but in the daily and constant intercourse of familiar +companionship. This is enjoyed with a degree of pleasant ease--an +absence of all pomp, pride, and circumstance, of which unhappily we have +no idea. Alas! we must know by special printed announcement a month +beforehand that our friend is "at home,"--that liveried servants will +be in attendance, and her mansion blazing with light,--before we can +dare venture to pass an evening hour in her drawing-room. How would a +London lady stare, if some half-dozen--though perhaps among the most +chosen favourites of her visiting-list--were to walk unbidden into her +presence, in bonnets and shawls, between the hours of eight and eleven! +And how strangely new would it seem, were the pleasantest and most +coveted engagements of the week, formed without ceremony and kept +without ostentation, to arise from a casual meeting at the beginning +of it! + +It is this ease, this habitual absence of ceremony and parade, this +national enmity to constraint and tediousness of all kinds, which +renders the tone of French manners so infinitely more agreeable than +our own. And the degree in which this is the case can only be guessed +at by those who, by some happy accident or other, possess a real and +effective "open sesame!" for the doors of Paris. + +With all the superabundance of vanity ascribed to the French, they +certainly show infinitely less of it in their intercourse with their +fellow-creatures than we do. I have seen a countess, whose title was +of a dozen fair descents, open the external door of her apartment, and +welcome the guests who appeared at it with as much grace and elegance +as if a triple relay of tall fellows who wore her colours had handed +their names from hall to drawing-room. Yet in this case there was no +want of wealth. Coachman, footman, abigail, and doubtless all fitting +etceteras, owned her as their sovereign lady and mistress. But they +happened to have been sent hither and thither, and it never entered +her imagination that her dignity could be compromised by her appearing +without them. In short, the vanity of the French does not show itself +in little things; and it is exactly for this reason that their +enjoyment of society is stripped of so much of the anxious, sensitive, +ostentatious, self-seeking etiquette which so heavily encumbers our +own. + +There are some among us, my friend, who might say of this testimony to +the charm of French society, that there was danger in praising, and +pointing out as an example to be followed, the manners of a people +whose morality is considered as so much less strict than our own. +Could I think that, by thus approving what is agreeable, I could +lessen by a single hair's-breadth the interval which we believe exists +between us in this respect, I would turn my approval to reproof, and +my superficial praise to deep-dyed reprobation: but to any who should +express such a fear, I would reply by assuring them that it would +require a very different species of intimacy from any to which I had +the honour of being admitted, in order to authorise, from personal +observation, any attack upon the morals of Parisian society. More +scrupulous and delicate refinement in _the tone of manners_ can +neither be found nor wished for anywhere; and I do very strongly +suspect, that many of the pictures of French depravity which have been +brought home to us by our travellers, have been made after sketches +taken in scenes and circles to which the introductions I so strongly +recommend to my countrywomen could by no possibility lead them. It is +not of such that I can be supposed to speak. + +Apropos of false impressions and false reports, I may repeat to you an +anecdote which I heard yesterday evening. The little committee in +which it was related consisted of at least a dozen persons, and it +appeared that I was myself the only one to whom it was new. + +"It is rather more than two years ago," said the speaker, "that we had +amongst us an English gentleman, who avowed that it was his purpose to +write on France, not as other men write--superficially, respecting +truths that lie obvious to ordinary eyes--but with a research that +should make him acquainted with all things above, about, and +underneath. He professed this intention to more than one dear friend; +and more than one dear friend took the trouble of tracing him in his +chase after hidden truths. Not long after his arrival among us, this +gentleman became intimately acquainted with a lady more celebrated for +the variety of her friendships with men of letters than for the +endurance of them. This lady received the attentions of the stranger +with distinguished kindness, and, among other proofs of regard, +undertook to purvey for him all sorts of private anecdotes, great and +little, that from the mass he might form an average estimate of the +people; assuring him at the same time, that no one in Paris was more +_au fait_ of its secret histories than herself. This," continued my +informant, "might be, and I believe was, very particularly true; and +the English traveller might have been justified in giving to his +countrymen and countrywomen as much insight into such mysteries as he +thought good for them: but when he published the venomous slanders of +this female respecting persons not only of the highest honour, but of +the most unspotted reputation, he did what will blast his name as long +as his charlatan book is remembered." Such were the indignant words, +and there was nothing in the tone with which they were uttered to +weaken their expression. + +I tell you the tale as I heard it; but I will not repeat much more +that was said on the same subject, nor will I give any A..., B..., or +C... hints as to the names so freely mentioned. + +Some degree of respectability ought certainly to attach to those from +whom important information is sought respecting the morals and manners +of a country, when it is the intention of the inquirer that his +observations and statements upon it should become authority to the +whole civilized world. + +The above conversation, however, was brought to a laughing conclusion +by Madame C----, who, addressing her husband as he was seconding the +angry eloquence I have repeated, said, "Calmez-vous donc, mon ami: +après tout, le tableau fait par M. le Voyageur des dames Anglaises n'a +rien à nous faire mourir de jalousie." + +I suspect that neither you nor any other lady of England will feel +disposed to contradict her. + + Adieu! + + + + +LETTER VII. + + Alarm created by the Trial of the Lyons Prisoners.--Visits + from a Republican and from a Doctrinaire: reassured by the + promises of safety and protection received from the latter. + + +We have really had something very like a panic amongst us, from the +rumours in circulation respecting this terrible trial, which is now +rapidly approaching. Many people think that fearful scenes may be +expected to take place in Paris when it begins. + +The newspapers of all parties are so full of the subject, that there +is little else to be found in them; and all those, of whatever colour, +which are opposed to the government, describe the manner in which the +proceedings are to be managed, as the most tyrannical exercise of +power ever practised in modern Europe. + +The legitimate royalists declare it to be illegal, inasmuch as the +culprits have a right to be tried by a jury of their peers--the +citizens of France; whereas it appears that this their chartered right +is denied them, and that no other judge or jury is to be permitted in +their case than the peers of France. + +Whether this accusation will be satisfactorily answered, I know not; +but there certainly does appear to be something rather plausible, at +least, in the objection. Nevertheless, it is not very difficult to see +that the 28th Article of the Charter may be made to answer it, which +says,-- + + "The Chamber of Peers takes cognizance of high-treason, and + of attempts against the safety of the state, _which shall be + defined by law_." + +Now, though this _defining by law_ appears, by what I can learn, to be +an operation not yet quite completed, there seems to be something so +very like high-treason in some of the offences for which these +prisoners are to be tried, that the first clause of the article may do +indifferently well to cover it. + +The republican journals, pamphlets, and publications of all sorts, +however, treat the whole business of their detention and trial as the +most tremendous infringement of the newly-acquired rights of Young +France; and they say--nay, they do swear, that crowned king, created +peers, and placed ministers never dared to venture upon anything so +tyrannical as this. + +All that the unfortunate Louis Seize ever did, or suffered to be +done--all that the banished Charles Dix ever threatened to do--never +"roared so loud, and thundered in the index," as does this deed +without a name about to be perpetrated by King Louis-Philippe the +First. + +At last, however, the horrible thing has been christened, and PROCÈS +MONSTRE is its name. This is a happy device, and will save a world of +words. Before it received this expressive appellation, every paragraph +concerning it began by a roundabout specification of the horrific +business they were about to speak of; but since this lucky name has +been hit upon, all prefatory eloquence is become unnecessary: _Procès +Monstre!_ simply _Procès Monstre!_ expresses all it could say in two +words; and whatever follows may safely become matter of news and +narrative respecting it. + +This news, and these narratives, however, still vary considerably, and +leave one in a very vacillating state of mind as to what may happen +next. One account states that Paris is immediately to be put under +martial law, and all foreigners, except those attached to the +different embassies, civilly requested to depart. Another declares all +this to be a weak invention of the enemy; but hints that it is +probable a pretty strong _cordon_ of troops will surround the city, to +keep watch day and night, lest _les jeunes gens_ of the metropolis, in +their mettlesome mood, should seek to wash out in the blood of their +fellow-citizens the stain which the illegitimate birth of the monster +has brought upon France. Others announce that a devoted body of +patriots have sworn to sacrifice a hecatomb of National Guards, to +atone for an abomination which many believe to originate with them. + +Not a few declare that the trial will never take place; that the +government, audacious as they say it is, dare do no more than hold up +the effigy of the monster to frighten the people, and that a general +amnesty will end the business. In truth, it would be a tedious task to +record one half of the tales that are in circulation on this subject: +but I do assure you, that listening to the awful note of preparation +for all that is to be done at the Luxembourg is quite enough to make +one nervous, and many English families have already thought it prudent +to leave the city. + +At one moment we were really worked into a state very nearly +approaching terror by the vehement eloquence of a fiery-hot republican +who paid us a visit. I ventured to lead to the terrible subject by +asking him if he thought the approaching political trials likely to +produce any result beyond their disagreeable influence on the +convenience of the parties concerned; but I really repented my +temerity when I saw the cloud which gathered on his brow as he +replied:-- + +"Result! What do you call result, madam? Is the burning indignation of +millions of Frenchmen a result? Are the execrations of the noble +beings enslaved, imprisoned, tortured, trampled on by tyranny, a +result? Are the groans of their wives and mothers--are the tears of +their bereaved children--a result?--Yes, yes, there will be results +enough! They are yet to come, but come they will; and when they do, +think you that the next revolution will be one of three days? Do your +countrymen think so? does Europe think so? There has been another +revolution, to which it will more resemble." + +He looked rather ashamed of himself, I thought, when he had concluded +his tirade,--and well he might: but there was such a hideous tone of +prophecy in this, that I actually trembled as I listened to him, and, +all jesting apart, thoughts of passports to be signed and conveyances +to be hired were arranging themselves very seriously in my brain. But +before we went out for the evening, all these gloomy meditations were +most agreeably dispersed by a visit from a staid old doctrinaire, who +was not only a soberer politician, but one considerably more likely to +know what he was talking about than the youth who had harangued us in +the morning. + +Anxious to have my fears either confirmed or removed, I hastened to +tell him, half in jest, half in earnest, that we were beginning to +think of taking an abrupt leave of Paris. "And why?" said he. + +I stated very seriously my newly-awakened fears; at which he laughed +heartily, and with an air of such unfeigned amusement, that I was +cured at once. + +"Whom can you have been listening to?" said he. + +"I will not give up my authority," I replied with proper diplomatic +discretion; "but I will tell you exactly what a gentleman who has been +here this morning has been saying to us." And I did so precisely as I +have repeated it to you; upon which he laughed more heartily than +before, and rubbing his hands as if perfectly delighted, he exclaimed, +"Delicious! And you really have been fortunate enough to fall in with +one of these _enfans perdus_? I really wish you joy. But do not set +off immediately: listen first to another view of the case." I assured +him that this was exactly what I wished to do, and very truly declared +that he could do me no greater favour than to put me _au fait_ of the +real state of affairs. + +"Willingly will I do so," said he; "and be assured I will not deceive +you." Whereupon I closed the _croisée_, that no rattling wheels might +disturb us, and prepared to listen. + +"My good lady," he began with great kindness, "soyez tranquille. There +is no more danger of revolution at this time in France than there is +in Russia. Louis-Philippe is adored; the laws are respected; order is +universally established; and if there be a sentiment of discontent or +a feeling approaching to irritation among any deserving the name of +Frenchmen, it is against these miserable _vauriens_, who still cherish +the wild hope of disturbing our peace and our prosperity. But fear +nothing: trust me, the number of these is too small to make it worth +while to count them." + +You will believe I heard this with sincere satisfaction; and I really +felt very grateful, both for the information, and the friendly manner +in which it was given. + +"I rejoice to hear this," said I: "but may I, as a matter of +curiosity, ask you what you think about this famous trial? How do you +think it will end?" + +"As all trials ought to end," he replied: "by bringing all such as are +found guilty to punishment." + +"Heaven grant it!" said I; "for the sake of mankind in general, and +for that portion of it in particular which happen at the present +moment to inhabit Paris. But do you not think that the irritation +produced by these preparations at the Luxembourg is of considerable +extent and violence?" + +"To whatever extent this irritation may have gone," he answered +gravely, "it is an undoubted fact,--undoubted in the quarter where +most is known about the matter,--that the feeling which approves these +preparations is not only of greater extent, but of infinitely deeper +sincerity, than that which is opposed to it. What you have heard +to-day is mere unmeaning bluster. The trial, I do assure you, is very +popular. It is for the justification and protection of the National +Guard;--and are we not all National Guards?" + +"But are all the National Guards true?" + +"Perhaps not. But be sure of this, that there are enough true to +_égorger_ without any difficulty those who are not." + +"But is it not very probable," said I, "that the republican feeling +may be quite strong enough to produce another disturbance, though not +another revolution? And the situation of strangers would probably +become very embarrassing, should this eventually lead to any renewed +outbreakings of public enthusiasm." + +"Not the least in the world, I do assure you: for, at any rate, all +the enthusiasm, as you civilly call it, would only elicit additional +proof of the stability and power of the government which we are now so +happy as to enjoy. The enthusiasm would be speedily calmed, depend +upon it." + +"A peaceable traveller," said I, "can wish for no better news; and +henceforward I shall endeavour to read and to listen with a tranquil +spirit, let the prisoners or their partisans say what they may." + +"You will do wisely, believe me. Rest in perfect confidence and +security, and be assured that Louis-Philippe holds all the English as +his right good friends. While this is the case, neither Windsor +Castle nor the Tower of London itself could afford you a safer abode +than Paris." + +With this seasonable and very efficient encouragement, he left me; and +as I really believe him to know more about the new-born politics of +"Young France" than most people, I go on very tranquilly making +engagements, with but few misgivings lest barricades should prevent my +keeping them. + + + + +LETTER VIII. + + Eloquence of the Pulpit.--L'Abbé Coeur.--Sermon at St. + Roch.--Elegant Congregation.--Costume of the younger Clergy. + + +There is one novelty, and to me a very agreeable one, which I have +remarked since my return to this volatile France: this is the fashion +and consideration which now attend the eloquence of her preachers. + +Political economists assert that the supply of every article follows +the demand for it in a degree nicely proportioned to the wants of the +population; and it is upon this principle, I presume, that we must +account for the present affluence of a talent which some few years ago +could hardly be said to exist in France, and might perhaps have been +altogether denied to it, had not the pages both of Fenelon and his +eloquent antagonist, Bossuet, rendered such an injustice impossible. + +It was, I think, about a dozen years ago that I took some trouble to +discover if any traces of this glorious eloquence remained at Paris. I +heard sermons at Notre Dame--at St. Roch--at St. Eustache; but never +was a search after talent attended with worse success. The preachers +were nought; they had the air, too, of being vulgar and uneducated +men,--which I believe was, and indeed still is, very frequently the +case. The churches were nearly empty; and the few persons scattered up +and down their splendid aisles appeared, generally speaking, to be of +the very lowest order of old women. + +How great is now the contrast! Nowhere are we so certain of seeing a +crowd of elegantly-dressed and distinguished persons as in the +principal churches of Paris. Nor is it a crowd that mocks the eye with +any tinsel pretensions to a rank they do not possess. Inquire who it +is that so meekly and devoutly kneels on one side of you--that so +sedulously turns the pages of her prayer-book on the other, and you +will be answered by the announcement of the noblest names remaining in +France. + +Though the eloquence of the pulpit has always been an object of +attention and interest to me in all countries, I hardly ventured on my +first arrival here to inquire again if anything of the kind existed, +lest I should once more be sent to listen to an inaudible mumbling +preacher, and to look at the deaf and dozing old women who formed his +congregation. But it has needed no inquiry to make us speedily +acquainted with the fact, that the churches have become the favourite +resort of the young, the beautiful, the high-born, and the +instructed. Whence comes this change? + +"Have you heard l'Abbé Coeur?" was a question asked me before I had +been here a week, by one who would not for worlds have been accounted +_rococo_. When I replied that I had not even heard of him, I saw +plainly that it was decided I could know very little indeed of what +was going on in Paris. "That is really extraordinary! but I engage you +to go without delay. He is, I assure you, quite as much the fashion as +Taglioni." + +As the conversation was continued on the subject of fashionable +preachers, I soon found that I was indeed altogether benighted. Other +celebrated names were cited: Lacordaire, Deguerry, and some others +that I do not remember, were spoken of as if their fame must of +necessity have reached from pole to pole, but of which, in truth, I +knew no more than if the gentlemen had been private chaplains to the +princes of Chili. However, I set down all their names with much +docility; and the more I listened, the more I rejoiced that the +Passion-week and Easter, those most Catholic seasons for preaching, +were before us, being fully determined to profit by this opportunity +of hearing in perfection what was so perfectly new to me as popular +preaching in Paris. + +I have lost little time in putting this resolution into effect. The +church of St. Roch is, I believe, the most fashionable in Paris; it +was there, too, that we were sure of hearing this celebrated Abbé +Coeur; and both these reasons together decided that it was at St. +Roch our sermon-seeking should begin: I therefore immediately set +about discovering the day and hour on which he would make his +appearance in the pulpit. + +When inquiring these particulars in the church, we were informed, that +if we intended to procure chairs, it would be necessary to come at +least one good hour before the high mass which preceded the sermon +should begin. This was rather alarming intelligence to a party of +heretics who had an immense deal of business on their hands; but I was +steadfast in my purpose, and, with a small detachment of my family, +submitted to the preliminary penance of sitting the long silent hour +in front of the pulpit of St. Roch. The precaution was, however, +perfectly necessary, for the crowd was really tremendous; but, to +console us, it was of the most elegant description; and, after all, +the hour scarcely appeared much too long for the business of reviewing +the vast multitude of graceful personages, waving plumes, and blooming +flowers, that ceased not during every moment of the time to collect +themselves closer and closer still about us. + +Nothing certainly could be more beautiful than this collection of +bonnets, unless it were the collection of eyes under them. The +proportion of ladies to gentlemen was on the whole, we thought, not +less than twelve to one. + +"Je désirerais savoir," said a young man near me, addressing an +extremely pretty woman who sat beside him,--"Je désirerais savoir si +par hasard M. l'Abbé Coeur est jeune." + +The lady answered not, but frowned most indignantly. + +A few minutes afterwards, his doubts upon this point, if he really had +any, were removed. A man far from ill-looking, and farther still from +being old, mounted the tribune, and some thousands of bright eyes were +riveted upon him. The silent and profound attention which hung on +every word he uttered, unbroken as it was by a single idle sound, or +even glance, showed plainly that his influence upon the splendid and +numerous congregation that surrounded him must be very great, or the +power of his eloquence very strong: and it was an influence and a +power that, though "of another parish," I could well conceive must be +generally felt, _for he was in earnest_. His voice, though weak and +somewhat wirey, was distinct, and his enunciation clear: I did not +lose a word. + +His manner was simple and affectionate; his language strong, yet not +intemperate; but he decidedly appealed more to the hearts of his +hearers than to their understandings; and it was their hearts that +answered him, for many of them wept plenteously. + +A great number of priests were present at this sermon, who were all +dressed in their full clerical habits, and sat in places reserved for +them immediately in front of the pulpit: they were consequently very +near us, and we had abundant opportunity to remark the traces of that +_march of mind_ which is doing so many wondrous works upon earth. + +Instead of the tonsure which we have been used to see, certainly with +some feeling of reverence--for it was often shorn into the very centre +of crisped locks, while their raven black or shining chesnut still +spoke of youth that scrupled not to sacrifice its comeliness to a +feeling of religious devotion;--instead of this, we now saw unshaven +crowns, and more than one pair of flourishing _favoris_, nourished, +trained, and trimmed evidently with the nicest care, though a stiff +three-cornered cowl in every instance hung behind the rich and waving +honours of the youthful head. + +The effect of this strange mixture is very singular. But +notwithstanding this bold abandonment of priestly costume among the +junior clergy, there were in the long double row of anointed heads +which faced the pulpit some exceedingly fine studies for an artist; +and wherever the offending Adam was subdued by years, nothing could be +in better keeping than the countenances, and the sacred garb of those +to whom they belonged. Similar causes will, I suppose, at all times +produce similar effects; and it is therefore that among the twenty +priests at St. Roch in 1835, I seemed to recognise the originals of +many a holy head with which the painters of Italy, Spain, and Flanders +have made me familiar. + +The contrast furnished by the deep-set eyes, and the fine severe +expression of some of these consecrated brows, to the light, airy +elegance of the pretty women around them, was sufficiently striking; +and, together with the mellow light of the shaded windows, and the +lofty spaciousness of the noble church, formed a spectacle highly +picturesque and impressive. + +After the sermon was over, and while the gaily-habited congregation +fluttered away through the different doors like so many butterflies +hastening to meet returning sunshine, we amused ourselves by wandering +round the church. It is magnificently large for a parish church; but, +excepting in some of the little chapels, we found not much to admire. + +That very unrighteous old churchman, the Abbé Dubois, has a fine +monument there, restored from Les Petits Augustins; and a sort of +marble medallion, bearing the head of the immortal Corneille--immortal +despite M. Victor Hugo--is also restored, and placed against one of +the heavy columns of, I think, the centre aisle. But we paused longest +in a little chapel behind the altar--not the middle one, with its +well-managed glory of crimson light, though that is very beautiful; +but in the one to the right of it, which contains a sculptured +Calvary. It is, I believe, only one of _les stations_, of which twelve +are to be found in different parts of the church; but it has a +charm--seen as we saw it, with a strong effect of accidental light, +bringing forward the delicate figure of the adoring Magdalene, and +leaving the Saviour in the dark shadow and repose of death--that sets +at defiance all the connoisseurship of art, and taking from you all +faculty to judge, leaves only the power to feel. Under these +circumstances, whether quite delusive or not I hardly know, this group +appeared to us one of exceeding beauty. + +The high altar of St. Roch, and the extremity of the carpeted space +enclosed round it, is most lavishly, beautifully, and fragrantly +adorned with flowers of the choicest kind, all flourishing in the +fullest bloom in boxes and vases. It is the only instance I remember +in which the perfume of this most fair and holy decoration actually +pervaded the church. They certainly offer the sweetest incense that +can be found to breathe its grateful life and spirit out on any altar; +and were it not for the graceful swinging of the censers, which very +particularly pleases my eye, I would recommend to the Roman Catholic +church henceforth an economy of their precious gums, and advise them +to offer the incense of flowers in their stead. + +Before we left the church, about a hundred and fifty boys and girls, +from ten to fourteen years of age, assembled to be catechised by a +young priest, who received them behind the Lady Chapel. His manner was +familiar, caressing and kind, and his waving hair fell about his ears +like the picture of a young St. John. + + + + +LETTER IX. + + Literature of the Revolutionary School.--Its low estimation + in France. + + +Among many proofs of attentive kindness which I have received from my +Paris friends, their care to furnish me with a variety of modern +publications is not the least agreeable. + +One fancies everywhere, that it is easy, by the help of a circulating +library, to know tolerably well what is going on at Paris: but this is +a mighty fond delusion; though sometimes, perhaps, our state may be +the more gracious from our ignorance. + +One gentleman, to whom I owe much gratitude for the active good-nature +with which he seems willing to assist me in all my researches, has +given me much curious information respecting the present state of +literature and literary men in France. + +In this department of human greatness, at least, those of the party +which has lost power and place have a most decided pre-eminence. Would +it be a pun to say that there is poetical justice in this? + +The active, busy, bustling politicians of the hour have succeeded in +thrusting everything else out of place, and themselves into it. One +dynasty has been overthrown, and another established; old laws have +been abrogated, and hundreds of new ones framed; hereditary nobles +have been disinherited, and little men made great;--but amidst this +plenitude of destructiveness, they have not yet contrived to make any +one of the puny literary reputations of the day weigh down the renown +of those who have never lent their voices to the cause of treason, +regicide, rebellion, or obscenity. The literary reputations both of +Châteaubriand and Lamartine stand higher, beyond all comparison, than +those of any other living French authors: yet the first, with all his +genius, has often suffered his imagination to run riot, and the last +has only given to the public the leisure of his literary life. But +both of them are men of honour and principle, as well as men of +genius; and it comforts one's human nature to see that these qualities +will keep themselves aloft, despite whatever squally winds may blow, +or blustering floods assail them. That both Châteaubriand and +Lamartine belong rather to the imaginative than to the _positif_ +class, cannot be denied; but they are renowned throughout the world, +and France is proud of them. + +The most curious literary speculations, however, suggested by the +present state of letters in this country, are not respecting authors +such as these: they speak for themselves, and all the world knows +them and their position. The circumstance decidedly the most worthy of +remark in the literature of France at the present time, is the effect +which the last revolution appears to have produced. With the exception +of history, to which both Thiers and Mignet have added something that +may live, notwithstanding their very defective philosophy, no single +work has appeared since the revolution of 1830 which has obtained a +substantial, elevated, and generally acknowledged reputation for any +author unknown before that period: not even among all the unbridled +ebullitions of imagination, though restrained neither by decorum, +principle, nor taste,--not even here (excepting from one female[2] +pen, which might become, were it the pleasure of the hand that wields +it, the first now extant in the world of fiction,) has anything +appeared likely to survive its author; nor is there any writer who +during the same period has raised himself to that station in society, +by means of his literary productions, which is so universally accorded +to all who have acquired high literary celebrity in any country. + +The name of M. Guizot was too well known before the revolution for +these observations to have any reference to him; and however much he +may have distinguished himself since July 1830, his reputation was +made before. There are, however, little writers in prodigious +abundance; and though as perfectly sure of the truth of what I have +here stated as that I am alive to write it, I should expect a terrible +riot about my ears, could such words be heard by the swarm of tiny +geniuses that settle in clusters, some on the newspapers, some on the +theatres, and some on the busy little printing-press of the +tale-tellers--could they catch me, I am sure I should be stung to +death. + +How well I can fancy the clamour!... "Infamous libeller!" cries one; +"have not I achieved a reputation? Do I not receive yearly some +hundreds of francs for my sublime familiarity with sin and misery? and +are not my works read by 'Young France' with ecstasy? Is not this +fame?" "And I," says another,--"is it of such as I and my cotemporary +fellow-labourers in the vast field of new-ploughed speculation that +you speak?" "What call you reputation, woman?" says a third: "do not +the theatres overflow when I send murder, lust, and incest on the +stage, to witch the world with wondrous wickedness?" "And, I too," +groans another,--"am I not famous? Are not my delicious tales of +unschooled nature in the hands of every free-born youth and tender +maid in this our regenerated Athens? Is not this fame, infamous +slanderer?" + +Were I obliged to answer all this, I could only say, "_Arrangez-vous, +canaille!_ If you call this fame, take it, try it, make the most of +it, and see where you will be some dozen years hence." + +Notwithstanding this extraordinary lack of great ability, however, +there never, I believe, was any period in which the printing-presses +of France worked so hard as at present. The revolution of 1830 seems +to have set all the minor spirits in motion. There is scarcely a boy +so insignificant, or a workman so unlearned, as to doubt his having +the power and the right to instruct the world. "Every breathing soul +in Paris took a part in this glorious struggle," says the recording +newspaper;--"Yes, all!" echoes the smutched mechanic, snorting and +snuffing the air with the intoxicating consciousness of imputed +power;--"Yes!" answer the _galopins_ one and all, "it is we, it is +we!" And then, like the restless witches on the barren heath that +their breath has blasted, the great reformers rouse themselves again, +and looking from the mischief they have done to the still worse that +remains behind, they mutter prophetically, "We'll do--we'll do--we'll +do!" + +To me, I confess, it is perfectly astonishing that any one can be +found to class the writers of this restless _clique_ as "the literary +men of France." Yet it has been done; and it is not till the effects +of the popular commotion which brought them into existence has fully +subsided, that the actual state of French literature can be fairly +ascertained. + +Béranger was not the production of that whirlwind: but, in truth, let +him sing what or when he will, the fire of genuine poetic inspiration +must perforce flash across the thickest mist that false principles can +raise around him. He is but a meteor perhaps, but a very bright one, +and must shine, though his path lie amongst unwholesome exhalations +and most dangerous pitfalls. But he cannot in any way be quoted as one +of the new-born race whose claim to genuine fame I have presumed to +doubt. + +That flashes of talent, sparkles of wit, and bursts of florid +eloquence are occasionally heard, seen, and felt even from these, is, +however, certain: it could hardly be otherwise. But they blaze, and go +out. The oil which feeds the lamp of revolutionary genius is foul, and +such noxious vapours rise with the flame as must needs check its +brightness. + +Do not, however, believe me guilty of such presumption as to give you +my own unsupported judgment as to the position which this "new school" +(as the _décousu_ folks always call themselves) hold in the public +esteem. Such a judgment could be little worth if unsupported; but my +opinion on this subject is, on the contrary, the result of careful +inquiry among those who are most competent to give information +respecting it. + +When the names of such as are best known among this class of authors +are mentioned in society, let the politics of the circle be what they +may, they are constantly spoken of as a Paria caste that must be kept +apart. + +"Do you know ---- ----?" has been a question I have repeatedly asked +respecting a person whose name is cited in England as the most +esteemed French writer of the age,--and so cited, moreover, to prove +the low standard of French taste and principle. + +"No, madam," has been invariably the cold reply. + +"Or ----?" + +"No. He is not in society." + +"Or ----?" + +"Oh no! His works live an hour (too long!) and are forgotten." + +Should I therefore, my friend, return from France with an higher idea +of its good taste and morality than I had when I entered it, think not +that my own standard of what is right has been lowered, but only that +I have had the pleasure of finding it differed much less than I +expected from that of our agreeable and hardly-judged neighbours on +this side the water. But I shall probably recur to this subject again; +and so, for the present, farewell! + +FOOTNOTE: + +[2] G. Sand. + + + + +LETTER X. + + Lonchamps.--The "Three Hours' Agony" at St. Roch.--Sermons on + the Gospel of Good-Friday.--Prospects of the + Catholics.--O'Connell. + + +I dare say you may know, my friend, though I did not, that the +Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday of Passion-week are yearly set apart +by the Parisians for a splendid promenade in carriages, on horseback, +and on foot, to a part of the Bois de Boulogne called Lonchamps. What +the origin could be of so gay and brilliant an assemblage of people +and equipages, evidently coming together to be stared at and to stare, +on days so generally devoted to religious exercises, rather puzzled +me; but I have obtained a most satisfactory explanation, which, in the +hope of your ignorance, I will communicate. The custom itself, it +seems, is a sort of religious exercise; or, at any rate, it was so at +the time of its institution. + +When the _beau monde_ of Paris first adopted the practice of repairing +to Lonchamps during these days of penitence and prayer, a convent +stood there, whose nuns were celebrated for performing the solemn +services appointed for the season with peculiar piety and effect. They +sustained this reputation for many years; and for many years all who +could find admittance within their church thronged to hear their sweet +voices. + +This convent was destroyed at _the_ revolution (_par excellence_), but +the horses and carriages of Paris still continue to move for evermore +in the same direction when the last three days of Lent arrive. + +The cavalcade assembled on this occasion forms an extremely pretty +spectacle, rivalling a spring Sunday in Hyde Park as to the number and +elegance of the equipages, and greatly exceeding it in the beauty and +extent of the magnificent road on which they show themselves. Though +the attending this congregation of wealth, rank, and fashion is still +called "going to Lonchamps," the evolutions of the company, whether in +carriages, on horseback, or on foot, are at present almost wholly +confined to the noble avenue which leads from the entrance to the +Champs Elysées up to the Barrière de l'Etoile. + +From about three till six, the whole of this ample space is crowded; +and I really had no idea that so many handsome, well-appointed +equipages could be found collected together anywhere out of London. +The royal family had several handsome carriages on the ground: that of +the Duke of Orleans was particularly remarkable for the beauty of the +horses, and the general elegance of the "turn-out." + +The ministers of state, and all the foreign legations, did honour to +the occasion; most of them having very complete equipages, chasseurs +of various plumage, and many with a set of four beautiful horses +really well harnessed. Many private individuals, also, had carriages +which were handsome enough, together with their elegant lading, +greatly to increase the general brilliancy of the scene. + +The only individual, however, except the Duke of Orleans, who had two +carriages on the ground, two feathered chasseurs, and twice two pair +of richly-harnessed steeds, was a certain Mr. T----, an American +merchant, whose vast wealth, and still more vast expenditure, is +creating considerable consternation among his sober-minded countrymen +in Paris. We were told that the exuberance of this gentleman's +transatlantic taste was such, and such the vivacity of his inventive +fancy, that during the three days of the Lonchamps promenade he +appeared on the ground each day with different liveries; having, as it +should seem, no particular family reasons for preferring any one set +of colours to another. + +The ground was sprinkled, and certainly greatly adorned, by many very +elegant-looking Englishmen on horseback; the pretty caprioles, sleek +skins, and well-managed capers of that prettiest of creatures, a +high-bred English saddle-horse, being as usual among the most +attractive parts of the show. Nor was there any deficiency of +Frenchmen, with very handsome _montures_, to complete the spectacle; +while the ample space under the trees on either side was crowded with +thousands of smart pedestrians; the whole scene being one vast moving +mass of pomp and pleasure. + +Nevertheless, the weather on the first of the three days was very far +from favourable: the wind was so bitterly cold that I countermanded +the carriage I had ordered, and instead of going to Lonchamps, we +actually sat shivering over the fire at home; indeed, before three +o'clock, the ground was perfectly covered with snow. The next day +promised something better, and we ventured to emerge: but the +spectacle was really vexatious; many of the carriages being open, and +the shivering ladies attired in all the light and floating drapery of +spring costume. For it is at Lonchamps that all the fashions of the +coming season are exhibited; and no one can tell, however fashion-wise +they be, what bonnet, scarf or shawl, or even what prevailing colour, +is to be worn in Paris throughout the year, till this decisive promenade +be over. Accordingly the milliners had done their duty, and, in fact, +had far outstripped the spring. But it was sad to see the beautiful +bunches of lilac, and the graceful, flexible laburnums--each a wonder +of art--twisted and tortured, bending and breaking, before the wind. +It really seemed as if the lazy Spring, vexed at the pretty mimicry of +blossoms she had herself failed to bring, sent this inclement blast on +purpose to blight them. Everything went wrong. The tender tinted +ribbons were soon dabbled in a driving sleet; while feathers, instead +of wantoning, as it was intended they should do, on the breeze, had to +fight a furious battle with the gale. + +It was not therefore till the following day--the last of the three +appointed--that Lonchamps really showed the brilliant assemblage of +carriages, horsemen, and pedestrians that I have described to you. +Upon this last day, however, though it was still cold for the +season--(England would have been ashamed of such a 17th of April)--the +sun did come forth, and smiled in such a sort as greatly to comfort +the pious pilgrims. + +We remained, like all the rest of Paris, driving up and down in the +midst of the pretty crowd till six, when they gradually began to draw +off, and all the world went home to dinner. + +The early part of this day, which was Good-Friday, had been very +differently passed. The same beautiful and solemn music which formerly +drew all Paris to the Convent in the Bois de Boulogne is now performed +in several of the churches. We were recommended to hear the choir of +St. Roch; and it was certainly the most impressive service at which I +was ever present. + +There is much wisdom in thus giving to music an important part in the +public ceremonies of religion. Nothing commands and enchains the +attention with equal power: the ear may be deaf to eloquence, and the +thoughts may often grovel earthward, despite all the efforts of the +preacher to lead them up to heaven; but few will find it possible to +escape from the effect of music; and when it is of such a character as +that performed in the Roman Catholic church on Good-Friday, it can +hardly be that the most volatile and indifferent listener should +depart unmoved. + +This service was advertised as "The Three Hours' Agony." The crowd +assembled to listen to it was immense. It is impossible to speak too +highly of the composition of the music; it is conceived in the very +highest tone of sublimity; and the deeply effective manner of its +performance recalled to me an anecdote I have heard of some young +organist, who, having accompanied an anthem in a manner which appeared +greatly superior to that of the usual performer, was asked if he had +not made some alteration in the composition. "No," he replied, "I have +not; but I always read the words when I play." + +So, I should think, did those who performed the services at St. Roch +on Good-Friday; and nothing can be imagined more touching and +effective than the manner in which the whole of these striking +ceremonies were performed and arranged there. + +The awful gospel of the day furnished a theme for the impassioned +eloquence of several successive preachers; one or two of whom were +wonderfully powerful in their manner of recounting the dreadful +narrative. They were all quite young men; but they went through the +whole of the appalling history with such deep solemnity, such strength +of imagery and vehemence of eloquence, as to produce prodigious +effect. + +At intervals, while the exhausted preachers reposed, the organ, with +many stringed instruments, and a choir of exquisite voices, performed +the same gospel, in a manner that made one's whole soul thrill and +quiver within one. The suffering--the submission--the plaintive yet +sublime "It is finished!" and the convulsive burst of indignant nature +that followed, showing itself in thunder, hail, and earthquake, were +all brought before the mind with most miraculous power. I have been +told since, that the services at Notre Dame on that day were finer +still; but I really find some difficulty in believing that this is +possible. + +During these last and most solemn days of Lent, I have been +endeavouring by every means in my power to discover how much fasting, +of any kind, was going on. If they fast at all, it is certainly +performed in most strict obedience to the very letter of the gospel: +for, assuredly, they "appear not unto men to fast." Everything goes on +as gaily as if it were the season of the carnival. The _restaurans_ +reek with the savoury vapour of a hundred dishes; the theatres are +opened, and as full as the churches; invitations cease not; and I can +in no direction perceive the slightest symptom of being among a Roman +Catholic population during a season of penitence. + +And yet, contradictory as the statement must appear, I am deeply +convinced that the clergy of the church of Rome feel more hope of +recovered power fluttering at their hearts now, than they have done at +any time during the last half-century. Nor can I think they are far +wrong in this. The share which the Roman Catholic priests of this our +day are said to have had in the Belgian revolution, and the part, more +remarkable still, which the same race are now performing in the +opening scenes of the fearful struggle which threatens England, has +given a new impulse to the ambition of Rome and of her children. One +may read it in the portly bearing of her youthful priests,--one may +read it in the deep-set meditative eye of those who are older. It is +legible in their brand-new vestments of gold and silver tissue; it is +legible in the costly decorations of their renovated altars; and deep, +deep, deep is the policy which teaches them to recover with a gentle +hand that which they have lost by a grasping one. How well can I +fancy that, in their secret synods, the favourite text is, "No man +putteth a piece of new cloth unto an old garment; for that which is +put in to fill it up, taketh from the garment, and the rent is made +worse." Were they a whit less cautious, they must fail at once; but +they tickle their converts before they think of convincing them. It is +for this that the pulpits are given to young and eloquent men, who win +the eye and ear of their congregations long before they find out to +what point they wish to lead them. But while the young men preach, the +old men are not idle: there are rumours of new convents, new +monasteries, new orders, new miracles, and of new converts, in all +directions. This wily, worldly, tranquil-seeming, but most ambitious +sect, having in many quarters joined themselves to the cause of +democracy, sit quietly by, looking for the result of their work, and +watching, like a tiger that seems to dose, for the moment when they +may avenge themselves for the long fast from power, during which they +have been gnawing their heart-strings. + +But they now hail the morning of another day. I would that all English +ears could hear, as mine have done, the prattle that prophesies the +downfall of our national church as a thing certain as rain after long +drought! I would that English ears could hear, as mine have done, the +name of O'Connell uttered as that of a new apostle, and his bold +bearding of those who yet raise their voices in defence of the faith +their fathers gave them, triumphantly quoted in proof of the growing +influence both of himself and his popish creed,--which are in truth +one and inseparable! But forgive me!--all this has little to do with +my subject, and it is moreover a theme I had much better not meddle +with. I cannot touch it lightly, for my heart is heavy when I turn to +it; I cannot treat it powerfully, for, alas! I have no strength but to +lament. + + "Hé! que puis-je au milieu de ce peuple abattu? + Benjamin est sans force, et Juda sans vertu." + + + + +LETTER XI. + + Trial Chamber at the Luxembourg.--Institute.--M. + Mignet.--Concert Musard. + + +As a great and especial favour, we have been taken to see the new +chamber that has been erected at the Luxembourg for the trial of the +political prisoners. The appearance of the exterior is very handsome, +and though built wholly of wood, it corresponds perfectly, to all +outward seeming, with the old palace. The rich and massive style of +architecture is imitated to perfection: the heavy balustrades, the +gigantic bas-reliefs, are all vast, solid, and magnificent; and when +it is stated that the whole thing has been completed in the space of +two months, one is tempted to believe that Alladdin has turned +doctrinaire, and rubbed his lamp most diligently in the service of the +state. + +The trial-chamber is a noble room; but from the great number of +prisoners, and greater still of witnesses expected to be examined, the +space left for the public is but small. Prudence, perhaps, may have +had as much to do with this as necessity: nor can we much wonder if +the peers of France should desire to have as little to do with the +Paris mob upon this occasion as possible. + +I remarked that considerable space was left for passages, ante-rooms, +surroundings, and outposts of all sorts;--an excellent arrangement, +the wisdom of which cannot be questioned, as the attendance of a large +armed force must be indispensable. In fact, I believe it ever has been +and ever will be found, that troops furnish the only means of keeping +a remarkably free people in order. + +It was, however, very comforting and satisfactory to hear the manner +in which the distinguished and agreeable individual who had procured +us the pleasure of seeing this building discoursed of the business +which was to be carried on there. + +There is a quiet steadiness and confidence in their own strength among +these doctrinaries, that seems to promise well for the lasting +tranquillity of the country; nor does it impeach either their wisdom +or sincerity, if many among them adhere heart and hand to the +government, though they might have better liked a white than a +tri-coloured banner to wave over the palace of its head. Whatever the +standers-by may wish or feel about future struggles and future +changes, I think it is certain that no Frenchman who desires the +prosperity of his country can at the present moment wish for anything +but a continuance of the tranquillity she actually enjoys. + +If, indeed, democracy were gaining ground,--if the frightful political +fallacies, among which the very young and the very ignorant are so apt +to bewilder themselves, were in any degree to be traced in the policy +pursued by the existing government,--then would the question be wholly +changed, and every honest man in full possession of his senses would +feel himself called upon to stay the plague with all his power and +might. But the very reverse of all this is evidently the case; and it +may be doubted if any sovereign in Europe has less taste for license +and misrule than King Louis-Philippe. Be very sure that it is not to +him that the radicals of any land must look for patronage, +encouragement, or support: they will not find it. + +After quitting the Luxembourg, we went to the _bureau_ of the +secretary at the Institute, to request tickets for an annual sitting +of the five Academies, which took place yesterday. They were very +obligingly accorded--(O that our institutions, our academies, our +lectures, were thus liberally arranged!)--and yesterday we passed two +very agreeable hours in the place to which they admitted us. + +I wish that the Polytechnic School, when they took a fancy for +changing the ancient _régimes_ of France, had included the uniform of +the Institute in their proscriptions. The improvement would have been +less doubtful than it is respecting some other of their innovations: +for what can be said in defence of a set of learned academicians, +varying in age from light and slender thirty to massive and +protuberant fourscore, wearing one and all a fancy blue dress-coat +"embroidered o'er with leaves of myrtle"? It is really a proof that +very good things were said and done at this sitting, when I declare +that my astonishment at the Corydon-like costume was forgotten within +the first half-hour. + +We first witnessed the distribution of the prizes, and then heard one +or two members speak, or rather read their compositions. But the great +fête of the occasion was hearing a discourse pronounced by M. Mignet. +This gentleman is too celebrated not to have excited in us a very +earnest wish to hear him; and never was expectation more agreeably +gratified. Combined with the advantages of a remarkably fine face and +person, M. Mignet has a tone of voice and play of countenance +sufficient of themselves to secure the success of an orator. But on +this occasion he did not trust to these: his discourse was every way +admirable; subject, sentiment, composition, and delivery, all +excellent. + +He had chosen for his theme the history of Martin Luther's appearance +before the Diet at Worms; and the manner in which he treated it +surprised as much as it delighted me. Not a single trait of that +powerful, steadfast, unbending character, which restored light to our +religion and freedom to the mind of man, escaped him: it was a mental +portrait, painted with the boldness of outline, breadth of light, and +vigour of colouring, which mark the hand of a consummate master. + +But was it a Roman Catholic who pronounced this discourse?--Were they +Roman Catholics who filled every corner of the theatre, and listened +to him with attention so unbroken, and admiration so undisguised? I +know not. But for myself, I can truly declare, that my Protestant and +reformed feelings were never more gratified than by listening to this +eloquent history of the proudest moment of our great apostle's life, +pronounced in the centre of Cardinal Mazarin's palace. The concluding +words of the discourse were as follows: + +"Sommé pendant quatre ans de se soumettre, Luther, pendant quatre ans, +dit non. Il avait dit non au légat; il avait dit non au pape; il dit +non à l'empereur. Dans ce non héroïque et fécond se trouvait la +liberté du monde." + +Another discourse was announced to conclude the sitting of the day. +But when M. Mignet retired, no one appeared to take his place; and after +waiting for a few minutes, the numerous and very fashionable-looking +crowd dispersed themselves. + +I recollected the anecdote told of the first representation of the +"Partie de Chasse de Henri Quatre," when the overture of Mehul +produced such an effect, that the audience would not permit anything +else to be performed after it. The piece, therefore, was +_remise_,--and so was the harangue of the academician who was to have +followed M. Mignet. + +You will confess, I think, that we are not idle, when I tell you that, +after all this, we went in the evening to _Le Concert Musard_. This is +one of the pastimes to which we have hitherto had no parallel in +London. At half-past seven o'clock, you lounge into a fine, large, +well-lighted room, which is rapidly filled with company: a full and +good orchestra give you during a couple of hours some of the best and +most popular music of the season; and then you lounge out again, in +time to dress for a party, or eat ices at Tortoni's, or soberly to go +home for a domestic tea-drinking and early rest. For this concert you +pay a franc; and the humble price, together with the style of toilet +(every lady wearing a bonnet and shawl), might lead the uninitiated to +suppose that it was a recreation prepared for the _beau monde_ of the +Faubourg; but the long line of private carriages that occupies the +street at the conclusion of it, shows that, simple and unpretending as +is its style, this concert has attractions for the best company in +Paris. + +The easy _entrée_ to it reminded me of the theatres of Germany. I +remarked many ladies coming in, two or three together, unattended by +any gentleman. Between the acts, the company promenaded round the +room, parties met and joined, and altogether it appeared to us a very +agreeable mode of gratifying that French necessity of amusing one's +self out of one's own house, which seems contagious in the very air of +Paris. + + + + +LETTER XII. + + Easter-Sunday at Notre Dame.--Archbishop.--View of + Paris.--Victor Hugo.--Hôtel Dieu.--Mr. Jefferson. + + +It was long ago decided in a committee of the whole house, that on +Easter-Sunday we should attend high mass at Notre Dame. I shall not +soon forget the spectacle that greeted us on entering. Ten thousand +persons, it was said, were on that day assembled in the church; and +its dimensions are so vast, that I have no doubt the statement was +correct, for it was crowded from floor to roof. The effect of the +circular gallery, that at mid-height encompasses the centre aisle, +following as it does the graceful sweep of the chapel behind the +altar, and filled row after row with gaily-dressed company up, as it +seemed, almost to the groining of the roof, was beautiful. The chairs +on this occasion were paid for in proportion to the advantageousness +of the position in which they stood, and by disbursing an extra franc +or two we obtained very good places. The mass was performed with great +splendour. The dresses of the archbishop and his train were +magnificent; and when this splendid, princely-looking personage, +together with his court of dignitaries and priests, paraded the Host +round the church and up the crowded aisle spite of the close-wedged +throng, they looked like a stream of liquid gold, that by its own +weight made way through every obstacle. The archbishop is a mild and +amiable-looking man, and ceased not to scatter blessings from his lips +and sprinkle safety from his fingers'-ends upon the admiring people, +as slowly and gracefully he passed among them. + +The latter years of this prelate's life have been signalized by some +remarkable changes. He has seen the glories and the penitences of his +church alike the favourite occupation of his king;--he has seen that +king and his highest nobles walking in holy procession through the +streets of Paris;--he has seen that same king banished from his throne +and his country, a proscribed and melancholy exile, while the pomp and +parade of his cherished faith were forbidden to offend the people's +eyes by any longer pouring forth its gorgeous superstitions into the +streets;--he has seen his own consecrated palace razed to its +foundation, and its very elements scattered to the winds:--and now, +this self-same prelate sees himself again well received at the court +whence Charles Dix was banished; and, stranger still, perhaps, he sees +his startled flock once more assembling round him, quietly and +silently, but steadily and in earnest; while he who, within five +short years, was trembling for his life, now lifts his head again, and +not only in safety, but, with all his former power and pride of place, +is permitted to + + "Chanter les _oremus_, faire des processions, + Et répandre à grands flots les bénédictions." + +It is true, indeed, that there are no longer any Roman Catholic +processions to be seen in the streets of Paris; but if we look within +the churches, we find that the splendour concentrated there, has lost +nothing of its impressive sumptuousness by thus changing the scene of +its display. + +The service of this day, as far as the music was concerned, was in my +opinion infinitely less impressive than that of Good-Friday at St. +Roch. This doubtless arose in a great degree from the style of +composition; but I suspect, moreover, that my imagination was put out +of humour by seeing about fifty fiddlers, with every appearance of +being (what they actually were) the orchestra of the opera, performing +from a space enclosed for them at the entrance of the choir. The +singing men and boys were also stationed in the same unwonted and +unecclesiastical place; and though some of those hired for the +occasion had very fine Italian voices, they had all the air of singing +without "reading the words;" and, on the whole, my ear and my fancy +were disappointed. + +Victor Hugo's description of old Paris as seen from the towers of +Notre Dame sent us labouring to their summit. The state of the +atmosphere was very favourable, and I was delighted to find that the +introduction of coal, rapid as its progress has lately been, has not +yet tinged the bright clear air sufficiently to prevent this splendid +panorama from being distinctly seen to its remotest edge. That +impenetrable mass of dun, dull smoke, that we look down upon whenever +a mischievous imp of curiosity lures us to the top of any dome, tower, +or obelisk in London, can hardly fail of making one remember every +weary step which led to the profitless elevation; but one must be +tired indeed to remember fatigue while looking down upon the bright, +warm, moving miniature spread out below the towers of Notre Dame. + +What an intricate world of roofs it is!--and how mystically +incomprehensible are the ins and outs, the bridges and the islands, of +the idle Seine! A raft, caught sight of at intervals, bearing wood or +wine; a floating wash-house, with its line of bending naïads, looking +like a child's toy with figures all of a row; and here and there a +floating-bath,--are all this river shows of its power to aid and +assist the magnificent capital which has so strangely chosen to +stretch herself along its banks. When one thinks of the forest of +masts which we see covering whole miles of extent in London, it seems +utterly unintelligible how that which is found needful for the +necessities of one great city should appear so perfectly unnecessary +for another. + +Victor Hugo's picture of the scene he has fancied beneath the towers +of Notre Dame in the days of his Esmeralda is sketched with amazing +spirit; though probably Paris was no more like the pretty panorama he +makes of it than Timbuctoo. I heartily wish, however, that he would +confine himself to the representation of still-life, and let his +characters be all of innocent bricks and mortar: for even though they +do look shadowy and somewhat doubtful in the distance, they have +infinitely more nature and truth than can be found among all his +horrible imaginings concerning his fellow-creatures. + +His description of the old church itself, too, is delicious: for +though it has little of architectural reality or strict graphic +fidelity about it, there is such a powerful air of truth in every word +he says respecting it, that one looks out and about upon the rugged +stones, and studies every angle, buttress, and parapet, with the +lively interest of old acquaintance. + +I should like to have a legend, as fond and lingering in its +descriptions, attached to some of our glorious and mysterious old +Gothic cathedrals at home. This sort of reading gives a pleasure in +which imagination and reality are very happily blended; and I can +fancy nothing more agreeable than following an able romancer up and +down, through and amongst, in and out, the gloomy, shadowy, fanciful, +unintelligible intricacies of such a structure. How well might +Winchester, for instance, with its solemn crypts, its sturdy Saxon +strength, its quaintly-coffined relics of royal bones, its Gothic +shrines, its monumental splendour, and its stately magnitude, furnish +forth the material for some such spirit-stirring record! + +Having spent an hour of first-rate interest and gratification in +wandering inside and outside of this very magnificent church, we +crossed the Place, or _Parvis_, of Notre Dame, to see the celebrated +hospital of the Hôtel Dieu. It is very particularly large, clean, +airy, and well-ordered in every way; and I never saw sick people look +less miserable than some scores of men and women did, tucked snugly up +in their neat little beds, and most of them with a friend or relative +at their side to console or amuse them. + +The access to the wards of this building is as free as that into a +public bazaar; but there is one caution used in the admission of +company which, before I understood it, puzzled me greatly. There are +three doors at the top of the fine flight of steps which leads to the +building. The centre one is used only as an exit; at the other two are +placed guards, one a male, the other a female. Through these +side-doors all who enter must pass--the men on one side, the women on +the other; and all must submit to be pretty strictly examined, to see +that they are conveying nothing either to eat or drink that might be +injurious to the invalids. + +The covered bridge which opens from the back part of the Hôtel Dieu, +connecting _l'Isle de la Cité_ with the left bank of the Seine, with +its light glass roof, and safe shelter from wind, dust, or annoyance +of any kind, forms a delightful promenade for the convalescent. + +The evening of this day we spent at a _soirée_, where we met, among +many other pleasant persons, a very sensible and gentlemanlike +American. I had the pleasure of a long conversation with him, during +which he said many things extremely worth listening to. This gentleman +has held many distinguished diplomatic situations, appears to have +acquired a great deal of general information, and moreover to have +given much attention to the institutions and character of his own +country. + +He told me that Jefferson had been the friend of his early life; that +he knew his sentiments and opinions on all subjects intimately well, +and much better than those who were acquainted with them no otherwise +than by his published writings. He assured me most positively that +Jefferson was NOT a democrat in principle, but believed it expedient +to promulgate the doctrine, as the only one which could excite the +general feeling of the people, and make them hang together till they +should have acquired strength sufficient to be reckoned as one among +the nations. He said, that Jefferson's ulterior hope for America was, +that she should, after having acquired this strength, give birth to +men distinguished both by talent and fortune; that when this happened, +an enlightened and powerful aristocracy might be hoped for, without +which HE KNEW that no country could be really great or powerful. + +As I am assured that the word of this gentleman may be depended on, +these observations--or rather, I should say, statements--respecting +Jefferson appear to me worth noting. + + + + +LETTER XIII. + + "Le Monomane." + + +As a distinguished specimen of fashionable horror, I went last night +to the Porte St. Martin to see "The Monomane," a drama in five acts, +from the pen of a M. Duveyrier. I hardly know whether to give you a +sketch of this monstrous outrage against common sense or not; but I +think I will do so, because I flatter myself that no one will be silly +enough to translate it into English, or import it in any shape into +England; and, therefore, if I do not tell you something about it, you +may chance to die without knowing to what prodigious lengths a search +after absurdity may carry men. + +But first let me mention, as not the least extraordinary part of the +phenomenon, that the theatre was crowded from floor to roof, and that +Shakspeare was never listened to with attention more profound. +However, it does not follow that approval or admiration of any kind +was either the cause or the effect of this silent contemplation of the +scene: no one could be more devoted to the business of the hour than +myself, but most surely this was not the result of approbation. + +If I am not very clear respecting the plot, you must excuse me, from +my want of habitual expertness in such an analysis; but the main +features and characters cannot escape me. + +An exceedingly amiable and highly intellectual gentleman is the hero +of this piece; a part personated by a M. Lockroi with a degree of +ability deserving a worthier employment. This amiable man holds at +Colmar the office of _procureur du roi_; and, from the habit of +witnessing trials, acquires so vehement a passion for the shedding of +blood on the scaffold, that it amounts to a mania. To illustrate this +singular trait of character, M. Balthazar developes his secret +feelings in an opening speech to an intimate friend. In this speech, +which really contains some very good lines, he dilates with much +enthusiasm on the immense importance which he conceives to attach to +the strict and impartial administration of criminal justice. No man +could deliver himself more judge-like and wisely; but how or why such +very rational and sober opinions should lead to an unbounded passion +for blood, is very difficult to understand. + +The next scene, however, shows the _procureur du roi_ hugging himself +with a kind of mysterious rapture at the idea of an approaching +execution, and receiving with a very wild and mad-like sort of agony +some attempts to prove the culprit innocent. The execution takes +place; and after it is over, the innocence of the unfortunate victim +is fully proved. + +The amiable and excellent _procureur du roi_ is greatly moved at this; +but his repentant agony is soon walked off by a few well-trod +melodramatic turns up and down the stage; and he goes on again, +seizing with ecstasy upon every opportunity of bringing the guilty to +justice. + +What the object of the author can possibly be in making out that a man +is mad solely because he wishes to do his duty, I cannot even guess. +It is difficult to imagine an honest-minded magistrate uttering more +common-place, uncontrovertible truths upon the painful duties of his +station, than does this unfortunate gentleman. + +M. Victor Hugo, speaking of himself in one of his prefaces, says, "Il +(Victor Hugo) continuera donc fermement; et chaque fois qu'il croira +nécessaire de faire bien voir à tous, dans ses moindres détails, une +idée utile, une idée sociale, une idée humaine, il posera le théâtre +déssus comme un verre grossissant."[3] + +It strikes me that M. Duveyrier, the ingenious author of the Monomane, +must work upon the same principle, and that in this piece he thinks +he has put a magnifying-glass upon "une idée sociale." + +But I must return to my analysis of this drama of five mortal +acts.--After the execution, the real perpetrator of the murder for +which the unfortunate victim of legal enthusiasm has innocently +suffered appears on the scene. He is brought sick or wounded into the +house of a physician, with whom the _procureur du roi_ and his wife +are on a visit. Balthazar sees the murderer conveyed to bed in a +chamber that opens from that of his friend the doctor. He then goes to +bed himself with his wife, and appears to have fallen asleep without +delay, for we presently see him in this state come forth from his +chamber upon a gallery, from whence a flight of stairs descends upon +the stage. We see him walk down these stairs,--take some instrument +out of a case belonging to the doctor,--enter the apartment where the +murderer has been lodged,--return,--replace the instrument,--wash his +bloody hands and wipe them upon a hand-towel,--then reascend the +staircase and enter his lady's room at the top of it; all of which is +performed in the silence of profound sleep. + +The attention which hung upon the whole of this long silent scene was +such, that one might have supposed the lives of the audience depended +upon their not waking this murderous sleeper by any sound; and the +applause which followed the mute performance, when once the awful +_procureur du roi_ was again safely lodged in his chamber, was +deafening. + +The following morning it is discovered that the sick stranger has been +murdered; and instantly the _procureur du roi_, with his usual ardour +in discovering the guilty, sets most ably to work upon the +investigation of every circumstance which may throw light upon this +horrible transaction. Everything, particularly the case of +instruments, of which one is bloody, and the hand-towel found in his +room, stained with the same accusing dye--all tends to prove that the +poor innocent physician is the murderer: he is accordingly taken up, +tried, and condemned. + +This unfortunate young doctor has an uncle, of the same learned +profession, who is addicted to the science of animal magnetism. This +gentleman having some suspicion that Balthazar is himself the guilty +person, imagines a very cunning device by which he may be made to +betray himself if guilty. He determines to practise his magnetism upon +him in full court while he is engaged in the duties of his high +office, and flatters himself that he shall be able to throw him into a +sleep or trance, in which state he may _par hasard_ let out something +of the truth. + +This admirable contrivance answers perfectly. The attorney-general +does fall into a most profound sleep the moment the old doctor begins +his magnetising manoeuvres, and in this state not only relates aloud +every circumstance of the murder, but, to give this confession more +sure effect, he writes it out fairly, and sets his name to it, being +profoundly asleep the whole time. + +And here it is impossible to avoid remarking on the extreme ill +fortune which attends the sleeping hours of this amiable +attorney-general. At one time he takes a nap, and kills a man without +knowing anything of the matter; and then, in a subsequent state of +oblivion, he confesses it, still without knowing anything of the +matter. + +As soon as the unfortunate gentleman has finished the business for +which he was put to sleep, he is awakened, and the paper is shown to +him. He scruples not immediately to own his handwriting, which, +sleeping or waking, it seems, was the same; but testifies the greatest +horror and astonishment at the information the document contains, +which was quite as unexpected to himself as to the rest of the +company. + +His high office, however, we must presume, exempts him from all +responsibility; for the only result of the discovery is an earnest +recommendation from his friends, particularly the old and young +doctors, that he should travel for the purpose of recovering his +spirits. + +There is a little episode, by the way, from which we learn, that once, +in one of his alarming slumbers, this amiable but unfortunate man +gave symptoms of wishing to murder his wife and child; in consequence +of which, it is proposed by the doctors that this tour for the +restoration of his spirits should be made without them. To this +separation Balthazar strongly objects, and tells his beautiful wife, +with much tenderness, that he shall find it very dull without her. + +To this the lady, though naturally rather afraid of him, answers with +great sweetness, that in that case she shall be extremely happy to go +with him; adding tenderly, that she would willingly die to prove her +devotion. + +Nothing could be so unfortunate as this expression. At the bare +mention of his hobby-horse, _death_, his malady revives, and he +instantly manifests a strong inclination to murder her,--and this time +without even the ceremony of going to sleep. + +Big with the darling thought, his eyes rolling, his cheek pale, his +bristling hair on end, and the awful genius of Melodrame swelling in +every vein, Balthazar seats himself on the sofa beside his trembling +wife, and taking the comb out of her (Mademoiselle Noblet's) beautiful +hair, appears about to strangle her in the rope of jet that he pulls +out to its utmost length, and twists, and twists, and twists, till one +really feels a cold shiver from head to foot. But at length, at the +very moment when matters seem drawing to a close, the lady throws +herself lovingly on his bosom, and his purpose changes, or at least +for a moment seems to change, and he relaxes his hold. + +At this critical juncture the two doctors enter. Balthazar looks at +them wildly, then at his wife, then at the doctors again, and finally +tells them all that he must beg leave to retire for a few moments. He +passes through the group, who look at him in mournful silence; but as +he approaches the door, he utters the word 'poison,' then enters, and +locks and bolts it after him. + +Upon this the lady screams, and the two doctors fly for a crow-bar. +The door is burst open, and the _procureur du roi_ comes forward, wide +awake, but having swallowed the poison he had mentioned. + +This being "the last scene of all that ends this strange eventful +history," the curtain falls upon the enthusiastic attorney-general as +he expires in the arms of his wife and friends. + +We are always so apt, when we see anything remarkably absurd abroad, +to flatter ourselves with the belief that nothing like it exists at +home, that I am almost afraid to draw a parallel between this +inconceivable trash, and the very worst and vilest piece that ever was +permitted to keep possession of the stage in England, lest some one +better informed on the subject than myself should quote some British +enormity unknown to me, and so prove my patriotic theory false. + +Nevertheless, I cannot quit the subject without saying, that as far as +my knowledge and belief go, English people never did sit by hundreds +and listen patiently to such stuff as this. There is no very atrocious +vice, no terrific wickedness in the piece, as far as I could +understand its recondite philosophy; but its silliness surely +possesses the silliness of a little child. The grimaces, the dumb +show, the newly-invented passions, and the series of impossible +events, which drag through these five longsome acts, seem to show a +species of anomaly in the human mind that composed the piece, to which +I imagine no parallel can be found on record. + +Is this the result of the march of mind?--is it the fruit of that +universal diffusion of knowledge which we are told is at work +throughout the world, but most busily in France?... I shall never +understand the mystery, let me meditate upon it as long as I will. No! +never shall I understand how a French audience, lively, witty, acute, +and prone to seize upon whatever is ridiculous, can thus sit night +after night with profound gravity, and the highest apparent +satisfaction, to witness the incredible absurdity of such a piece as +"Le Monomane." + +There is one way, and one way only, in which the success of this drama +can be accounted for intelligibly. May it not be, that "LES JEUNES +GENS," wanton in their power, have determined in merry mood to mystify +their fellow-citizens by passing a favourable judgment upon this +tedious performance? And may they not now be enjoying the success of +their plot in ecstasies of private laughter, at seeing how meekly the +dutiful Parisians go nightly to the Porte St. Martin, and sit in +obedient admiration of what it has pleased their youthful tyrants to +denominate "a fine drama"? + +But I must leave off guessing; for, as the wise man saith, "the +finding out of parables is a wearisome labour of the mind." + +Some critic, speaking of the new school of French dramatists, says +that "they have heaved the ground under the feet of Racine and +Corneille." If this indeed be so, the best thing that the lovers of +tragedy can do is to sit at home and wait patiently till the earth +settles itself again from the shock of so deplorable an earthquake. +That it will settle itself again, I have neither doubt nor fear. +Nonsense has nothing of immortality in its nature; and when the storm +which has scattered all this frothy scum upon us shall have fairly +blown over and passed away, then I suspect that Corneille and Racine +will still find solid standing-ground on the soil of France;--nay, +should they by chance find also that their old niches in the temple of +her great men remain vacant, it is likely enough that they may be +again invited to take possession of them; and they may keep it too +perhaps for a few more hundred years, with very little danger that any +greater than they should arrive to take their places. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[3] _Translation._--He will continue then firmly; and every time that +he shall think it necessary to make visible to all, in its least +details, a useful idea, a social idea, a humane idea, he will place +upon it the theatre, as a magnifying-glass. + + + + +LETTER XIV. + + The Gardens of the Tuileries.--Legitimatist.--Republican.-- + Doctrinaire.--Children.--Dress of the Ladies.--Of the + Gentlemen.--Black Hair.--Unrestricted Admission.--Anecdote. + + +Is there anything in the world that can be fairly said to resemble the +Gardens of the Tuileries? I should think not. It is a whole made up of +so many strongly-marked and peculiar features, that it is not probable +any other place should be found like it. To my fancy, it seems one of +the most delightful scenes in the world; and I never enter there, +though it is long since the enchantment of novelty made any part of +the charm, without a fresh feeling of enjoyment. + +The _locale_ itself, independent of the moving throng which for ever +seems to dwell within it, is greatly to my taste: I love all the +detail of its embellishment, and I dearly love the bright and happy +aspect of the whole. But on this subject I know there are various +opinions: many talk with distaste of the straight lines, the clipped +trees, the formal flower-beds, the ugly roofs,--nay, some will even +abuse the venerable orange-trees themselves, because they grow in +square boxes, and do not wave their boughs in the breeze like so many +ragged willow-trees. + +But I agree not with any one of these objections; and should think it +as reasonable, and in as good taste, to quarrel with Westminster Abbey +because it did not look like a Grecian temple, as to find fault with +the Gardens of the Tuileries because they are arranged like French +pleasure-grounds, and not like an English park. For my own part, I +profess that I would not, if I had the power, change even in the least +degree a single feature in this pleasant spot: enter it at what hour +or at what point I will, it ever seems to receive me with smiles and +gladness. + +We seldom suffer a day to pass without refreshing our spirits by +sitting for a while amidst its shade and its flowers. From the part of +the town where we are now dwelling, the gate opposite the Place +Vendôme is our nearest entrance; and perhaps from no point does the +lively beauty of the whole scene show itself better than from beneath +the green roof of the terrace-walk, to which this gate admits us. + +To the right, the dark mass of unshorn trees, now rich with the flowers +of the horse-chesnut, and growing as boldly and as loftily as the most +English-hearted gardener could desire, leads the eye through a very +delicious "continuity of shade" to the magnificent gate that opens +upon the Place Louis-Quinze. To the left is the widely-spreading +façade of the Tuileries Palace, the ungraceful elevation of the +pavilion roofs, well nigh forgotten, and quite atoned for by the +beauty of the gardens at their feet. Then, just where the shade of the +high trees ceases, and the bright blaze of sunshine begins, what +multitudes of sweet flowers are seen blushing in its beams! An +universal lilac bloom seems at this season to spread itself over the +whole space; and every breeze that passes by, comes to us laden with +perfume. My daily walk is almost always the same,--I love it so well +that I do not like to change it. Following the shady terrace by which +we enter to the point where it sinks down to the level of the +magnificent esplanade in front of the palace, we turn to the right, +and endure the splendid brightness till we reach the noble walk +leading from the gateway of the centre pavilion, through flowers, +statues, orange-trees, and chesnut-groves, as far as the eye can +reach, till it reposes at last upon the lofty arch of the Barrière de +l'Etoile. + +This _coup-d'oeil_ is so beautiful, that I constantly feel renewed +pleasure when I look upon it. I do indeed confess myself to be one of +those "who in trim gardens take their pleasure." I love the studied +elegance, the carefully-selected grace of every object permitted to +meet the pampered eye in such a spot as this. I love these +fondly-nurtured princely exotics, the old orange-trees, ranged in +their long stately rows; and better still do I love the marble groups, +that stand so nobly, sometimes against the bright blue sky, and +sometimes half concealed in the dark setting of the trees. Everything +seems to speak of taste, luxury, and elegance. + +Having indulged in a lingering walk from the palace to the point at +which the sunshine ceases and the shade begins, a new species of +interest and amusement awaits us. Thousands of chairs scattered just +within the shelter of this inviting covert are occupied by an +interminable variety of pretty groups. + +I wonder how many months of constant attendance there, it would take +before I should grow weary of studying the whole and every separate +part of this bright picture? It is really matchless in beauty as a +spectacle, and unequalled in interest as a national study. All Paris +may in turn be seen and examined there; and nowhere is it so easy to +distinguish specimens of the various and strongly-marked divisions of +the people. + +This morning we took possession of half a dozen chairs under the trees +which front the beautiful group of Pelus and Aria. It was the hour +when all the newspapers are in the greatest requisition; and we had +the satisfaction of watching the studies of three individuals, each of +whom might have sat as a model for an artist who wished to give an +idea of their several peculiarities. We saw, in short, beyond the +possibility of doubt, a royalist, a doctrinaire, and a republican, +during the half-hour we remained there, all soothing their feelings by +indulging in two sous' worth of politics, each in his own line. + +A stiff but gentleman-like old man first came, and having taken a +journal from the little octagon stand--which journal we felt quite +sure was either "La France" or "La Quotidienne"--he established +himself at no great distance from us. Why it was that we all felt so +certain of his being a legitimatist I can hardly tell you, but not one +of the party had the least doubt about it. There was a quiet, +half-proud, half-melancholy air of keeping himself apart; an +aristocratical cast of features; a pale care-worn complexion; and a +style of dress which no vulgar man ever wore, but which no rich one +would be likely to wear to-day. This is all I can record of him: but +there was something pervading his whole person too essentially loyal +to be misunderstood, yet too delicate in its tone to be coarsely +painted. Such as it was, however, we felt it quite enough to make the +matter sure; and if I could find out that old gentleman to be either +doctrinaire or republican, I never would look on a human countenance +again in order to discover what was passing within. + +The next who approached us we were equally sure was a republican: but +here the discovery did little honour to our discernment; for these +gentry choose to leave no doubt upon the subject of their _clique_, +but contrive that every article contributing to the appearance of the +outward man shall become a symbol and a sign, a token and a stigma, of +the madness that possesses them. He too held a paper in his hand, and +without venturing to approach too nearly to so alarming a personage, +we scrupled not to assure each other that the journal he was so +assiduously perusing was "Le Réformateur." + +Just as we had decided what manner of man it was who was stalking so +majestically past us, a comfortable-looking citizen approached in the +uniform of the National Guard, who sat himself down to his daily +allowance of politics with the air of a person expecting to be well +pleased with what he finds, but nevertheless too well contented with +himself and all things about him to care over-much about it. Every +line of this man's jocund face, every curve of his portly figure, +spoke contentment and well-being. He was probably one of that very new +race in France, a tradesman making a rapid fortune. Was it possible to +doubt that the paper in his hand was "Le Journal des Débats?" was it +possible to believe that this man was other than a prosperous +doctrinaire? + + [Illustration: Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu. + MORNING AT THE TUILERIES. + London, Published by Richard Bentley, 1835.] + +Thus, on the neutral ground furnished by these delightful gardens, +hostile spirits meet with impunity, and, though they mingle not, +enjoy in common the delicious privileges of cool shade, fresh air, +and the idle luxury of an _al fresco_ newspaper, in the midst of a +crowded and party-split city, with as much certainty of being +unchallenged and uninterrupted as if each were wandering alone in a +princely domain of his own. + +Such, too, as are not over splenetic may find a very lively variety of +study in watching the ways of the little dandies and dandiesses who, +at some hours of the day, swarm like so many hummingbirds amidst the +shade and sunshine of the Tuileries. Either these little French +personages are marvellously well-behaved, or there is some +superintending care which prevents screaming; for I certainly never +saw so many young things assembled together who indulged so rarely in +that salutary exercise of the lungs which makes one so often tremble +at the approach of + + "Soft infancy, that nothing can, but cry." + +The costumes of these pretty creatures contribute not a little to the +amusement; it is often so whimsical as to give them the appearance of +miniature maskers. I have seen little fellows beating a hoop in the +full uniform of a National Guard; others waddling under the mimicry of +kilted Highlanders; and small ladies without number in every possible +variety of un-babylike apparel. + +The entertainment to be derived from sitting in the Tuileries Gardens +and studying costume is, however, by no means confined to the junior +part of the company. In no country have I ever seen anything +approaching in grotesque habiliments to some of the figures daily and +hourly met lounging about these walks. But such vagaries are confined +wholly to the male part of the population; it is very rare to see a +woman outrageously dressed in any way; and if you do, the chances are +five hundred to one that she is not a Frenchwoman. An air of quiet +elegant neatness is, I think, the most striking characteristic of the +walking costume of the French ladies. All the little minor finishings +of the female toilet appear to be more sedulously cared for than the +weightier matters of the pelisse and gown. Every lady you meet is +_bien chaussée_, _bien gantée_. Her ribbons, if they do not match her +dress, are sure to accord with it; and for all the delicate garniture +that comes under the care of the laundress, it should seem that Paris +alone, of all the earth, knows how to iron. + +The whimsical caprices of male attire, on the contrary, defy anything +like general remark; unless, indeed, it be that the air of Paris +appears to have the quality of turning all the _imperials_, _favoris_, +and _moustaches_ which dwell within its walls to jetty blackness. At a +little distance, the young men have really the air of having their +faces tied up with black ribbon as a cure for the mumps; and, handsome +as this dark _chevelure_ is generally allowed to be, the heavy +uniformity of it at present very considerably lessens its striking +effect. When every man has his face half covered with black hair, it +ceases to be a very valuable distinction. Perhaps, too, the frequent +advertisements of compositions infallible in their power of turning +the hair to any colour except "what pleases God," may tend to make one +look with suspicious eyes at these once fascinating southern +decorations; but, at present, I take it to be an undoubted fact, that +a clean, close-shaven, northern-looking gentleman is valued at a high +premium in every _salon_ in Paris. + +It is not to be denied that the "glorious and immortal days" have done +some injury to the general appearance of the Tuileries Gardens. Before +this period, no one was permitted to enter them dressed in a _blouse_, +or jacket, or _casquette_; and no one, either male or female, might +carry bundles or baskets through these pretty regions, sacred to +relaxation and holiday enjoyment. But liberty and unseemly sordidness +of attire being somehow or other jumbled together in the minds of the +sovereign mob,--not sovereign either--the mob is only vice-regal in +Paris as yet;--but the mob, however, such as it is, has obtained, as a +mark of peculiar respect and favour to themselves, a new law or +regulation, by which it is enacted that these royal precincts may +become like unto Noah's ark, and that both clean and unclean beasts +may enter here. + +Could one wish for a better specimen of the sort of advantage to be +gained by removing the restraint of authority in order to pamper the +popular taste for what they are pleased to call freedom? Not one of +the persons who enter the gardens now, were restricted from entering +them before; only it was required that they should be decently +clad;--that is to say, in such garments as they were accustomed to +wear on Sunday or any other holiday; the only occasions, one should +imagine, on which the working classes could wish to profit by +permission to promenade in a public garden: but the obligation to +appear clean in the garden of the king's palace was an infringement on +their liberty, so that formality is dispensed with; and they have now +obtained the distinguished and ennobling privilege of being as dirty +and ill-dressed as they like. + +The power formerly intrusted to the sentinel, wherever there was one +stationed, of refusing the _entrée_ to all persons not properly +dressed, gave occasion once to a saucy outbreaking of French wit in +one of the National Guard, which was amusing enough. This civic +guardian was stationed at the gates of a certain _Mairie_ on some +public occasion, with the usual injunction not to permit any person +"_mal-mise_" to enter. An _incroyable_ presented himself, not dressed +in the fashion, but immoderately beyond it. The sentinel looked at +him, and lowered his piece across the entrance, pronouncing in a +voice of authority-- + +"You cannot enter." + +"Not enter?" exclaimed the astonished beau, looking down at the +exquisite result of his laborious toilet; "not enter?--forbid me to +enter, sir?--impossible! What is it you mean? Let me pass, I say!" + +The imperturbable sentinel stood like a rock before the entrance: "My +orders are precise," he said, "and I may not infringe them." + +"Precise? Your orders precise to refuse me?" + +"Oui, monsieur, précis, de refuser qui que ce soit que je trouve +mal-mis." + + + + +LETTER XV. + + Street Police.--Cleaning Beds.--Tinning Kettles.--Building + Houses.--Loading Carts.--Preparing for the Scavenger.--Want + of Drains.--Bad Pavement.--Darkness. + + +My last letter was of the Tuileries Gardens; a theme which furnished +me so many subjects of admiration, that I think, if only for the sake +of variety, I will let the smelfungus vein prevail to-day. Such, then, +being my humour,--or my ill-humour, if you will,--I shall indulge it +by telling you what I think of the street-police of Paris. + +I will not tell you that it is bad, for that, I doubt not, many others +may have done before me; but I will tell you that I consider it as +something wonderful, mysterious, incomprehensible, and perfectly +astonishing. + +In a city where everything intended to meet the eye is converted into +graceful ornament; where the shops and coffee-houses have the air of +fairy palaces, and the markets show fountains wherein the daintiest +naïads might delight to bathe;--in such a city as this, where the +women look too delicate to belong wholly to earth, and the men too +watchful and observant to suffer the winds of heaven to visit them +too roughly;--in such a city as this, you are shocked and disgusted at +every step you take, or at every gyration that the wheels of your +chariot can make, by sights and smells that may not be described. + +Every day brings my astonishment on this subject to a higher pitch +than the one which preceded it; for every day brings with it fresh +conviction that a very considerable portion of the enjoyment of life +is altogether destroyed in Paris by the neglect or omission of such a +degree of municipal interference as might secure the most elegant +people in the world from the loathsome disgust occasioned by the +perpetual outrage of common decency in their streets. + +On this branch of the subject it is impossible to say more; but there +are other points on which the neglect of street-police is as plainly, +though less disgustingly, apparent; and some of these I will enumerate +for your information, as they may be described without impropriety; +but when they are looked at in conjunction with the passion for +graceful decoration, so decidedly a characteristic of the French +people, they offer to our observation an incongruity so violent, as to +puzzle in no ordinary degree whoever may wish to explain it. + +You cannot at this season pass through any street in Paris, however +pre-eminently fashionable from its situation, or however distinguished +by the elegance of those who frequent it, without being frequently +obliged to turn aside, that you may not run against two or more women +covered with dust, and probably with vermin, who are busily employed +in pulling their flock mattresses to pieces in the street. There they +stand or sit, caring for nobody, but combing, turning, and shaking the +wool upon all comers and goers; and, finally, occupying the space +round which many thousand passengers are obliged to make what is +always an inconvenient, and sometimes a very dirty _détour_, by poking +the material, cleared from the filth, which has passed into the +throats of the gentlemen and ladies of Paris, back again into its +checked repository. + +I have within this half-hour passed from the Italian Boulevard by the +Opera-house, in the front of which this obscene and loathsome +operation was being performed by a solitary old crone, who will +doubtless occupy the place she has chosen during the whole day, and +carry away her bed just in time to permit the Duke of Orleans to step +from his carriage into the Opera without tumbling over it, but +certainly not in time to prevent his having a great chance of +receiving as he passes some portion of the various animate and +inanimate superfluities which for so many hours she has been +scattering to the air. + +A few days ago I saw a well-dressed gentleman receive a severe +contusion on the head, and the most overwhelming destruction to the +neatness of his attire, in consequence of a fall occasioned by his +foot getting entangled in the apparatus of a street-working tinker, +who had his charcoal fire, bellows, melting-pot, and all other things +necessary for carrying on the tinning trade in a small way, spread +forth on the pavement of the Rue de Provence. + +When the accident happened, many persons were passing, all of whom +seemed to take a very obliging degree of interest in the misfortune of +the fallen gentleman; but not a syllable either of remonstrance or +remark was uttered concerning the invasion of the highway by the +tinker; nor did that wandering individual himself appear to think any +apology called for, or any change in the arrangement of his various +chattels necessary. + +Whenever a house is to be built or repaired in London, the first thing +done is to surround the premises with a high paling, that shall +prevent any of the operations that are going on within it from +annoying in any way the public in the street. The next thing is to +arrange a footpath round this paling, carefully protected by posts and +rails, so that this unavoidable invasion of the ordinary foot-path may +be productive of as little inconvenience as possible. + +Were you to pass a spot in Paris under similar circumstances, you +would fancy that some tremendous accident--a fire, perhaps, or the +falling in of a roof--had occasioned a degree of difficulty and +confusion to the passengers which it was impossible to suppose could +be suffered to remain an hour unremedied: but it is, on the contrary, +permitted to continue, to the torment and danger of daily thousands, +for months together, without the slightest notice or objection on the +part of the municipal authorities. If a cart be loading or unloading +in the street, it is permitted to take and keep a position the most +inconvenient, in utter disregard of any danger or delay which it may +and must occasion to the carriages and foot-passengers who have to +travel round it. + +Nuisances and abominations of all sorts are without scruple committed +to the street at any hour of the day or night, to await the morning +visit of the scavenger to remove them: and happy indeed is it for the +humble pedestrian if his eye and nose alone suffer from these +ejectments; happy, indeed, if he comes not in contact with them, as +they make their unceremonious exit from window or door. "_Quel +bonheur!_" is the exclamation if he escapes; but a look, wholly in +sorrow and nowise in anger, is the only helpless resource should he be +splashed from head to foot. + +On the subject of that monstrous barbarism, a gutter in the middle of +the streets expressly formed for the reception of filth, which is +still permitted to deform the greater portion of this beautiful city, +I can only say, that the patient endurance of it by men and women of +the year one thousand eight hundred and thirty-five is a mystery +difficult to understand. + +It really appears to me, that almost the only thing in the world which +other men do, but which Frenchmen cannot, is the making of sewers and +drains. After an hour or two of very violent rain last week, that part +of the Place Louis-Quinze which is near the entrance to the Champs +Elysées remained covered with water. The Board of Works having waited +for a day or two to see what would happen, and finding that the muddy +lake did not disappear, commanded the assistance of twenty-six +able-bodied labourers, who set about digging just such a channel as +little boys amuse themselves by making beside a pond. By this +well-imagined engineering exploit, the stagnant water was at length +conducted to the nearest gutter; the pickaxes were shouldered, and an +open muddy channel left to adorn this magnificent area, which, were a +little finishing bestowed upon it, would probably be the finest point +that any city in the world could boast. + +Perhaps it will hardly be fair to set it amongst my complaints against +the streets of Paris, that they have not yet adopted our last and most +luxurious improvement. I cannot but observe, however, that having +passed some weeks here, I feel that the Macadamised streets of London +ought to become the subject of a metropolitan jubilee among us. The +exceeding noise of Paris, proceeding either from the uneven structure +of the pavement, or from the defective construction of wheels and +springs, is so violent and incessant as to appear like the effect of +one great continuous cause,--a sort of demon torment, which it must +require great length of use to enable one to endure without suffering. +Were a cure for this sought in the Macadamising of the streets, an +additional advantage, by the bye, would be obtained, from the +difficulties it would throw in the way of the future heroes of a +barricade. + +There is another defect, however, and one much more easily remedied, +which may fairly, I think, come under the head of defective +street-police. This is the profound darkness of every part of the city +in which there are not shops illuminated by the owners of them with +gas. This is done so brilliantly on the Boulevards by the _cafés_ and +_restaurans_, that the dim old-fashioned lamp suspended at long +intervals across the _pavé_ is forgotten. But no sooner is this region +of light and gaiety left, than you seem to plunge into outer darkness; +and there is not a little country town in England which is not +incomparably better lighted than any street in Paris which depends for +its illumination upon the public regulations of the city. + +As it is evident that gas-pipes must be actually laid in all +directions in order to supply the individuals who employ it in their +houses, I could in no way understand why these most dismal +_réverbères_, with their dingy oil, were to be made use of in +preference to the beautiful light which almost outblazes that of the +sun; but I am told that some unexpired contract between Paris and her +lamplighters is the cause of this. Were the convenience of the public +as sedulously studied in France as in England, not all the claims of +all the lamplighters in the world, let it cost what it might to +content them, would keep her citizens groping in darkness when it was +so very easy to give them light. + +But not to dwell ungratefully upon the grievances which certainly +disfigure this city of delight, I will not multiply instances; yet I +am sure I may assert, without fear of contradiction or reproach, that +such a street-police as that of London would be one of the greatest +civic blessings that King Philippe could possibly bestow upon his +"_belle ville de Paris_." + + + + +LETTER XVI. + + Preparations for the Fête du Roi.--Arrival of Troops.--Champs + Elysées.--Concert in the Garden of the Tuileries.--Silence of + the People.--Fireworks. + + + May 2, 1835. + +For several days past we have been watching the preparations for the +King's fête, which though not quite equal to those in the days of the +Emperor, when all the fountains in Paris ran wine, were on a large and +splendid scale, and if more sober, were perhaps not less princely. +Temporary theatres, ball-rooms, and orchestras in the Champs +Elysées--magnificent fireworks on the Pont Louis-Seize--preparations +for a full concert immediately in front of the Tuileries Palace, and +arrangement of lamps for general illuminations, but especially in the +Gardens, were the chief of these; but none of them struck us so much +as the daily-increasing number of troops. National Guards and soldiers +of the line divided the streets between them; and as a grand review +was naturally to make a part of the day's pageantry, there would have +been nothing to remark in this, were it not that the various parties +into which the country is divided perpetually leads people to suppose +that King Philippe finds it necessary to act on the defensive. + +Numberless are the hints, as you may imagine, on this theme that have +been thrown out on the present occasion; and it is confidently +asserted in some quarters, that the reviewing of large bodies of +troops is likely to become a very fashionable and frequent, if not a +very popular, amusement here. If, indeed, a show of force be necessary +to ensure the tranquillity of this strife-worn land, the government +certainly do right in displaying it; but if this be not the case, +there is some imprudence in it, for the effect much resembles that of + + "A rich armour, worn in heat of day, + That scalds with safety." + +Yesterday, then, being marked in the calendar as sacred to St. Jacques +and St. Philippe, was kept as the fête of the present King of the +French. The weather was brilliant, and everything looked gay, +particularly around the courtly region of the Tuileries, Champs +Elysées, and all parts near or between them. + +Being assured by a philosophical looker-on upon all such assemblings +of the people as are likely to show forth indications of their temper, +that the humours of the Champs Elysées would display more of this than +I could hope to find elsewhere, I was about to order a carriage to +convey us there; but my friend stopped me. + +"You may as well remain at home," said he; "from a carriage you will +see nothing but a mob: but if you will walk amongst them, you may +perhaps find out whether they are thinking of anything or nothing." + +"Anything?--or nothing?" I repeated. "Does the _anything_ mean a +revolution? Tell me truly, is there any chance of a riot?" + +Instead of answering, he turned to a gentleman of our party who was +just returned from the review of the troops by the king. + +"Did you not say you had seen the review?" he demanded. + +"Yes; I am just come from it." + +"And what do you think of the troops?" + +"They are very fine troops,--remarkably fine men, both the National +Guards and the troops of the line." + +"And in sufficient force, are they not, to keep Paris quiet if she +should feel disposed to be frolicsome?" + +"Certainly--I should think so." + +It was therefore determined, leaving the younger part of the females +behind us however in case of the worst, that we should repair to the +Champs Elysées. + +No one who has not seen a public fête celebrated at Paris can form an +idea of the scene which the whole of this extensive area presents: it +makes me giddy even to remember it. Imagine a hundred swings throwing +their laughing cargoes high into the air; a hundred winged ships +flying in endless whirl, and bearing for their crews a _tête-à-tête_ +pair of holiday sweethearts: imagine a hundred horses, each with two +prancing hoofs high poised in air, coursing each other in a circle, +with nostrils of flame; a hundred mountebanks, chattering and +gibbering their inconceivable jargon, some habited as generals, some +as Turks,--some offering their nostrums in the impressive habit of an +Armenian Jew, and others rolling head-over-heels upon a stage, and +presenting a dose with the grin of Grimaldi. We stopped more than once +in our progress to watch the ways of one of these animals when it had +succeeded in fascinating its prey: the poor victim was cajoled and +coaxed into believing that none of woman born could ever taste of evil +more, if he would but trust to the one only true, sure, and certain +specific. + +At all sides of us, as we advanced, we were skirted by long lines of +booths, decked with gaudy merchandise, rings, clasps, brooches, +buckles, most tempting to behold, and all to be had for five sous +each. It is pretty enough to watch the eager glances and the smirking +smiles of the damsels, with the yielding, tender looks of the fond +boys who hover round these magazines of female trumpery. Alas! it is +perhaps but the beginning of sorrow! + +In the largest open space afforded by these Elysian fields were +erected two theatres, the interval between them holding, it was said, +twenty thousand spectators. While one of these performed a piece, +pantomimic I believe, the other enjoyed a _relâche_ and reposed +itself: but the instant the curtain of one fell, that of the other +rose, and the ocean of heads which filled the space between them +turned, and undulated like the waves of the sea, ebbing and flowing, +backwards and forwards, as the moon-struck folly attracted them. + +Four ample _al fresco_ enclosures prepared for dancing, each furnished +with a very respectable orchestra, occupied the extreme corners of +this space; and notwithstanding the crowd, the heat, the sunshine, and +the din, this exercise, which was carried on immediately under them, +did not, I was told, cease for a single instant during the whole of +that long summer-day. When one set of fiddlers were tired out, another +succeeded. The activity, gaiety, and universal good-humour of this +enormous mob were uniform and uninterrupted from morning to night. + +These people really deserve fêtes; they enjoy them so heartily, yet so +peaceably. + +Such were the great and most striking features of the jubilee; but we +hardly advanced a single step through the throng which did not exhibit +to us some minor trait of national and characteristic revelry. I was +delighted to observe, however, throughout the whole of my expedition, +that, according to our friend's definition, "_nobody was thinking of +anything_." + +But what pleased me incomparably more than all the rest was the +temperate style of the popular refreshments. The young men and the +old, the time-worn matron and the dainty damsel, all alike slaked +their thirst with iced lemonade, which was furnished in incredible +quantities by numberless ambulant cisterns, at the price of one sou +the glass. Happily this light-hearted, fête-loving population have no +gin-palaces to revel in. + +But hunger was to be satisfied as well as thirst; and here the +_friand_ taste of the people displayed itself by dozens of little +chafing-dishes lodged at intervals under the trees, each with its +presiding old woman, who, holding a frying-pan, for ever redolent of +onions, over the coals, screamed in shrill accents the praises of her +_saucisses_ and her _foie_. This was the only part of the business +that was really disagreeable: the odour from these _al fresco_ +kitchens was not, I confess, very pleasant; but everything else +pleased me exceedingly. It was the first time I ever saw a real mob in +full jubilee; and I did not believe it possible I could have been so +much amused, and so not at all frightened. Even before one of these +terribly odoriferant kitchens, I could not help pausing for a moment +as I passed, to admire the polite style in which an old woman who had +taken early possession of the shade of a tree for her _restaurant_ +defended the station from the wheelbarrow of a merchant of gingerbread +who approached it. + +"Pardon, monsieur!... Ne venez pas, je vous prie, déranger mon +établissement." + +The two grotesque old figures, together with their fittings up, made +this dignified address delightful; and as it was answered by a bow, +and the respectful drawing back of the wheelbarrow, I cannot but give +it the preference over the more energetic language which a similar +circumstance would be likely to produce at Bartholomew Fair. + +Altogether we were infinitely amused by this excursion; but I think I +never was more completely fatigued in my life. Nevertheless, I +contrived to repose myself sufficiently to join a large party to the +Tuileries Gardens in the evening, where we were assured that _two +hundred thousand persons_ were collected. The crowd was indeed very +great, and the party soon found it impossible to keep together; but +about three hours afterwards we had the satisfaction of assembling in +safety at the same pleasant mansion from which we set out. + +The attraction which during the early part of the evening chiefly drew +together the crowd was the orchestra in front of the palace. A large +military band were stationed there, and continued playing, while the +thousands and tens of thousands of lamps were being lighted all over +the gardens. + +During this time, the king, queen, and royal family appeared on the +balcony. And here the only fault which I had perceived in this pretty +fête throughout the day showed itself so strongly as to produce a very +disagreeable effect. From first to last, it seemed that the cause of +the jubilee was forgotten; not a sound of any kind greeted the +appearance of the royal party. That so gay and demonstrative a people, +assembled in such numbers, and on such an occasion, should remain with +uplifted heads, gazing on the sovereign, without a sound being uttered +by any single voice, appeared perfectly astonishing. However, if there +were no bravoes, there was decidedly no hissing. + +The scene itself was one of enchanting gaiety. Before us rose the +illuminated pavilions of the Tuileries: the bright lights darting +through the oleanders and myrtles on the balcony, showed to advantage +the royal party stationed there. On every side were trees, statues, +flowers, brought out to view by unnumbered lamps rising in brilliant +pyramids among them, while the inspiring sounds of martial music +resounded in the midst. The _jets d'eau_, catching the artificial +light, sprang high into the air like arrows of fire, then turned into +spray, and descended again in light showers, seeming to shed delicious +coolness on the crowd; and behind them, far as the eye could reach, +stretched the suburban forest, sparkling with festoons of lamps, that +seemed drawn out, "fine by degrees and beautifully less," up to the +Barrière de l'Etoile. The scene itself was indeed lovely; and if, +instead of the heavy silence with which it was regarded, a loud +heartfelt cheering had greeted the _jour de fête_ of a long-loved +king, it would have been perfect. + +The fireworks, too, were superb; and though all the theatres in Paris +were opened gratis to the public, and, as we afterwards heard, +completely filled, the multitudes that thronged to look at them seemed +enough to people a dozen cities. But it is so much the habit of this +people, old and young, rich and poor, to live out of doors, that a +slight temptation "bye common" is sufficient to draw forth every human +being who is able to stand alone: and indeed, of those who are not, +thousands are deposited in chairs, and other thousands in the arms of +mothers and nurses. + +The Pont Louis-Seize was the point from which all the fireworks were +let off. No spot could have been better chosen: the terraces of the +Tuileries looked down upon it; and the whole length of the quays, on +both sides of the river, as far as the _Cité_, looked up to it, and +the persons stationed on them must have seen clearly the many-coloured +fires that blazed there. + +One of the prettiest popular contrivances for creating a shout when +fireworks are exhibited here, is to have rockets, sending up +tri-coloured balls, blue, white, and red, in rapid succession, +looking, as I heard a young republican say, "like winged messengers, +from their loved banner up to heaven." I could not help remarking, +that if the messengers repeated faithfully all that the tri-coloured +banner had done, they would have strange tales to tell. + +The _bouquet_, or last grand display that finished the exhibition, was +very fanciful and very splendid: but what struck me as the prettiest +part of the whole show, was the Chamber of Deputies, the architecture +of which was marked by lines of light; and the magnificent flight of +steps leading to it having each one its unbroken fencing of fire, was +perhaps intended as a mystical type of the ordeal to be passed in a +popular election before this temple of wisdom could be entered. + +How very delightful was the abounding tea of that hot lamp-lit +night!... And how very thankful was I this morning, at one o'clock, to +feel that the _fête du roi_ was peaceably over, and I ready to fall +soundly to sleep in my bed! + + + + +LETTER XVII. + + Political chances.--Visit from a Republican.--His high + spirits at the prospects before him.--His advice to me + respecting my name.--Removal of the Prisoners from Ste. + Pélagie.--Review.--Garde de Paris.--The National Guard. + + +We are so accustomed, in these our luckless days, to hear of _émuetes_ +and rumours of _émuetes_, here, there, and everywhere, that we +certainly grow nerve-hardened, and if not quite callous, at least we +are almost reckless of the threat. But in this city the business of +getting up riots on the one hand, and putting them down on the other, +is carried on in so easy and familiar a manner, that we daily look for +an account of something of the kind as regularly as for our breakfast +bread; and I begin already to lose in a great degree my fear of +disagreeable results, in the interest with which I watch what is going +on. + +The living in the midst of all these different parties, and listening +first to one and then to another of them, is to a foreigner much like +the amusement derived by an idle spectator from walking round a +card-table, looking into all the hands, and then watching the manner +in which each one plays his game. + +It has so often happened here, as we all know, that when the game has +appeared over, and the winner in possession of the stake he played +for, they have on a sudden shuffled the cards and begun again, that +people seem always looking out for new chances, new bets, new losses, +and new confusion. I can assure you, that it is a game of considerable +movement and animation which is going on at Paris just now. The +political trials are to commence on Tuesday next, and the republicans +are as busy as a nest of wasps when conscious that their stronghold is +attacked. They have not only been upon the alert, but hitherto in +great spirits at the prospect before them. + +The same individual whose alarming communications on this subject I +mentioned to you soon after we came here, called on me again a few +days ago. I never saw a man more altered in the interval of a few +weeks: when I first saw him here, he was sullen, gloomy, and +miserable-looking in the extreme; but at his last visit he appeared +gay, frolicsome, and happy. He was not disposed, however, to talk much +on politics; and I am persuaded he came with a fixed determination not +to indulge our curiosity by saying a word on the subject. But "out of +the fulness of the heart the mouth speaketh;" and this gentleman did +not depart without giving us some little intimation of what was +passing in his. + +Observe, that I do no treason in repeating to you whatever this young +man said in my hearing; for he assured me the first time I ever saw +him, that he knew me to be "_une absolutiste enragée_;" but that, so +far from fearing to speak freely before me, there was nothing that +would give him so much pleasure as believing that I should publish +every word he uttered on the subject of politics. I told him in +return, that if I did so, it should be without mentioning his name; +for that I should be truly sorry to hear that he had been consigned to +Ste. Pélagie as a rebel on my evidence. So we understand each other +perfectly. + +On the morning in question, he began talking gaily and gallantly +concerning the pleasures of Paris, and expressed his hope that we were +taking care to profit by the present interval of public tranquillity. + +"Is this interval of calm likely to be followed by a storm?" said one +of the party. + +"Mais ... que sais-je?... The weather is so fine now, you know.... And +the opera? en vérité, c'est superbe!... Have you seen it yet?" + +"Seen what?" + +"Eh! mais, 'La Juive'! ... à présent il n'y a que cela au monde.... +You read the journals?" + +"Yes; Galignani's at least." + +"Ah! ah!" said he, laughing; "c'est assez pour vous autres." + +"Is there any interesting news to-day in any of the papers?" + +"Intéressante? ... mais, oui ... assez.... Cependant...." And then +again he rattled on about plays, balls, concerts, and I know not what. + +"I wish you would tell me," said I, interrupting him, "whether you +think, that in case any popular movement should occur, the English +would be molested, or in any way annoyed." + +"Non, madame--je ne le crois pas--surtout les femmes. Cependant, si +j'étais vous, Madame Trollope, je me donnerai pour le moment le nom +d'O'Connell." + +"And that, you think, would be accepted as a passport through any +scene of treason and rebellion?" said I. + +He laughed again, and said that was not exactly what he meant; but +that O'Connell was a name revered in France as well as at Rome, and +might very likely belong one day or other to a pope, if his generous +wishes for an Irish republic were too dear to his heart to permit him +ever to accept the title of king. + +"An Irish republic? ... perhaps that is just what is wanted," said I. +But not wishing to enter into any discussion on the niceties of +speech, I waived the compliments he began to pay me on this liberal +sentiment, and again asked him if he thought anything was going on +amongst the friends of the prisoners that might impede the course of +justice. + +Though not aware of the quibble with which I had replied to him, he +answered me by another, saying with energy-- + +"No! ... never!... They will never do anything to impede the course of +justice." + +"Will they do anything to assist it?" said I. + +He sprang from his chair, gave a bound across the room, as if to hide +his glee by looking out of the window, and when he showed his face +again, said with much solemnity--"They will do their duty." + +The conversation continued for some time longer, wavering between +politics and dissipation; and though we could not obtain from him +anything approaching to information respecting what might be going on +among his hot-headed party, yet it seemed clear that he at least hoped +for something that would lead to important results. + +The riddle was explained a very few hours after he left us. The +political prisoners, most of whom were lodged in the prison of Ste. +Pélagie, have been removed to the Luxembourg; and it was confidently +hoped and expected by the republicans that enough malcontents would be +found among the citizens of Paris to get up a very satisfactory +_émeute_ on the occasion. But never was hope more abortive: not the +slightest public sensation appears to have been excited by this +removal; and I am assured that the whole republican party are so +bitterly disappointed at this, that the most sanguine among them have +ceased for the present to anticipate the triumph of their cause. I +suspect, therefore, that it will be some time before we shall receive +another visit from our riot-loving friend. + +Meanwhile preparations are going on in a very orderly and judicious +style at the Luxembourg. The trial-chamber and all things connected +with it are completed; tents have been pitched in the gardens for the +accommodation of the soldiers, and guards stationed in such a manner +in all directions as to ensure a reasonable chance of tranquillity to +the peaceable. + +We have attended a review of very fine troops in the Place du +Carrousel, composed of National Guards, troops of the line, and that +most superb-looking body of municipal troops called _La Garde de +Paris_. These latter, it seems, have performed in Paris since the +revolution of 1830 the duties of that portion of the police formerly +called _gendarmerie_; but the name having fallen into disrepute in the +capital--(_les jeunes gens_, _par exemple_, could not bear it)--the +title of _Garde de Paris_ has been accorded to them instead, and it is +now only in the provinces that _gendarmes_ are to be found. But let +them be called by what name they may, I never saw any corps of more +superb appearance. Men and horses, accoutrements and discipline, all +seem perfect. It is amusing to observe how slight a thread will +sometimes suffice to lead captive the most unruly spirits. + + "What is there in a name?" + +Yet I have heard it asserted with triumphant crowings by some of the +revolutionary set, that, thanks to their valour! the odious system was +completely changed--that _gendarmes_ and _mouchards_ no longer existed +in Paris--that citizens would never again be tormented by their +hateful _surveillance_--and, in short, that Frenchmen were redeemed +from thraldom now and for evermore; so now they have _La Garde de +Paris_, just to take care of them: and if ever a set of men were +capable of performing effectually the duties committed to their +charge, I think it must be this well-drilled stalworth corps. + +The appearance of a large body of the National Guard too, when brought +together, as at a review, in full military style, is very imposing. +The eye at once sees that they are not ordinary troops. All the +appointments are in excellent order; and the very material of which +their uniform is made, being so much less common than usual, helps to +produce this effect. Not to mention that the uniform itself, of dark +blue, with the delicately white pantaloons, is peculiarly handsome on +parade; much more so, I think, though perhaps less calculated for a +battle-field, than the red lower garments by which the troops of the +French line are at present distinguished. + +The king looks well on horseback--so do his sons. The whole staff, +indeed, was gay and gallant-looking, and in style as decidedly +aristocratic as any prince need desire. Shouts of "_Vive le Roi!_" +ran cheerily and lustily along the lines; and if these may be trusted +as indications of the feelings of the soldiery towards King Philippe, +he may, I think, feel quite indifferent as to whatever other vows may +be uttered concerning him in the distance. + +But in this city of contradictions one can never sit down safely to +ruminate upon any one inference or conclusion whatever; for five +minutes afterwards you are assured by somebody or other that you are +quite wrong, utterly mistaken, and that the exact contrary of what you +suppose is the real fact. Thus, on mentioning in the evening the +cordial reception given by the soldiers to the king in the morning, I +received for answer--"Je le crois bien, madame; les officiers leur +commandent de le faire." + +We remained a good while on the ground, and saw as much as the +confinement of a carriage would permit. Like all reviews of +well-dressed, well-appointed troops, it was a gay and pretty +spectacle; and notwithstanding the caustic reprimand for my faith in +empty sounds which I have just repeated to you, I am still of opinion +that King Philippe had every reason to be contented with his troops, +and with the manner in which he was received by them. + +Every hour that one remains at Paris increases, I think, one's +conviction of the enormous power and importance of the National Guard. +Our volunteer corps, in the season of threatenings and danger, gave +us unquestionably an immense accession of strength; and had the +threatener dared to come, neither his legions nor his eagles, his +veterans nor his victories, would have saved him from utter +destruction. He knew this, and he came not: he knew that the little +island was bristling from her centre to her shore with arms raised to +strike, by the impulse of the heart and soul, and not by conscription; +he knew this, and wisely came not. + +Our volunteers were armed men--armed in a cause that warmed their +blood; and it is sufficient to establish their importance, that +History must record the simple fact, that Napoleon looked at them and +turned away. But, great as was the power of this critical show of +volunteer strength among us, as a permanent force it was trifling when +compared to the present National Guard of France. Not only are their +numbers greater--Paris alone has eighty thousand of them,--but their +discipline is perfect, and their practical habits of being on duty +keep them in such daily activity, that a tocsin sounded within their +hearing would suffice to turn out within an hour nearly the whole of +this force, not only completely armed, equipped, and in all respects +fit for service--not only each one with his quarters and rations +provided, but each one knowing and feeling the importance of the duty +he is upon as intimately as the general himself; and each one, in +addition to all other feelings and motives which make armed men +strong, warmed with the consciousness that it is his own stronghold, +his own property, his own castle, as well as his own life, that he is +defending. + +This force will save France from devouring her own vitals, if anything +can do it. + +Among all the novelties produced by the ever-growing experience of +men, and of which so many have ripened in these latter days, I doubt +if any can be named more rationally calculated to fulfil the purpose +for which it is intended than this organization of a force formed of +the industrious and the orderly part of a community to keep in check +the idle and disorderly,--and that, without taxing the state, +compromising their professional usefulness, or sacrificing their +personal independence, more than every man in his senses would be +willing to do for the purpose of keeping watch and ward over all that +he loves and values on earth. + +The more the power of such a force as this increases, the farther must +the country where it exists be from all danger of revolution. Such men +are, and must be, conservatives in the strongest sense of the word; +and though it may certainly be possible for some who may be rebel to +the cause of order to get enrolled among them, the danger of the +enterprise will unquestionably prevent its frequent recurrence. The +wolf might as safely mount guard in the midst of armed shepherds and +their dogs, as demagogues and agitators place themselves in the ranks +of the National Guard of Paris. + + [Illustration: Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu. + "PRO PATRIA!" + London, Published by Richard Bentley. 1835.] + + + + +LETTER XVIII. + + First Day of the Trials.--Much blustering, but no riot.--All + alarm subsided.--Proposal for inviting Lord B----m to plead + at the Trial.--Society.--Charm of idle conversation.--The + Whisperer of good stories. + + + 6th May 1835. + +The monster is hatched at last! The trials began yesterday, and we are +all rejoicing exceedingly at having found ourselves alive in our beds +this morning. What will betide us and it, as its scales or its plumes +push forth and gather strength from day to day, I know not; but +"sufficient for the day is the evil thereof;" and I do assure you in +very sober earnest, that when Galignani's paper arrived this morning, +the party round the breakfast-table was greatly comforted by finding +that nothing more alarming than a few republican demands on the part +of the prisoners, and a few monarchical refusals on the part of the +court, took place. + +This interchange of hostilities commenced by some of the accused +refusing to answer when their names were called;--then followed a +demand for free admission to the chamber, during the trials, for the +mothers, wives, and all other females belonging to the respective +families of the prisoners;--and next, a somewhat blustering demand for +counsel of their own choosing; the body of legal advocates, who, by +general rule and common usage, are always charged with the defence of +prisoners, not containing, as it should seem, orators sufficiently of +their own _clique_ to content them. + +This was of course stoutly refused by the court, after retiring, +however, for a couple of hours to deliberate upon it--a ceremony I +should hardly have supposed necessary. The company of the ladies, too, +was declined; and as, upon a moderate computation, their numerical +force could not have amounted to less than five hundred, this want of +gallantry in the Peers of France must be forgiven in favour of their +discretion. + +The gentleman, however, who was appointed, as he said, by the rest, to +request the pleasure of their society, declared loudly that the demand +for it should be daily renewed. This reminds one of the story of the +man who punished his wife for infidelity by making her sit to hear the +story of her misdeeds rehearsed every day of her life, and pretty +plainly indicates that it is the plan of the accused to torment their +judges as much as they conveniently can. + +One of the prisoners named the celebrated Abbé de Lamennais, author of +"Les Paroles d'un Croyant," as his advocate. The _procureur-général_ +remarked, that it was for the interest of the defence that the rule +for permitting lawyers only to plead should be adhered to. + +Next came a demand from one of the accused, in the name of all the +rest, that permission for free and unrestrained intercourse between +the prisoners of Lyons, Paris, and Marseilles should be allowed. This +was answered only by the announcement that "the court was adjourned;" +an intimation which produced an awful clamour; and as the peers +quitted the court, they were assailed with vehement cries of "We +protest! ... we protest!... We will make no defence!... We protest! +... we protest!" And so ended the business of the day. + +I believe that the government, and all those who are sufficiently +connected with it to know anything of the real state of the case, were +perfectly aware that no public movement was likely to take place at +this stage of the business. Every one seems to know that the restless +spirits, the desperate adventurers engaged in the extensive plot now +under investigation, consider their trial as the best occasion +possible for a political _coup de théâtre_, and that nothing would +have disturbed their performance more than a riot before the curtain +rose. + +Everything like panic seems now to have subsided, even among those who +are farthest from the centre of action; and all the effects of this +mighty affair apparently visible at present are to be seen on the +faces of the republicans, who, according to their wont, strut about +wherever they are most likely to be looked at, and take care that each +one of their countenances shall be + + "Like to a book where men may read strange matters." + +I thank Heaven, nevertheless, that this first day is so well over. I +had heard so over-much about it, that it became a sort of nightmare to +me, from which I now feel happily relieved. It is quite clear, that if +the out-of-door agitators should think proper to make any attempts to +produce disturbance, the government feels quite equal to the task of +making them quiet again, and of insuring that peaceable security to +the country for which she has so long languished in vain. + +The military force employed at the Luxembourg is, however, by no means +large. One battalion of the first legion of National Guards was in the +court of the palace, and about four hundred troops of the line +occupied the garden. But though no show of force is unnecessarily +displayed, every one has the comfort of knowing that there is enough +within reach should any necessity arise for employing it. + +I was told the other day, that when Lord B----m was in Paris, he was +so kind as to visit M. Armand Carrel in prison; and that, on the +strength of this proof of sympathy and affection, it has been +suggested to the prisoners at the Luxembourg, that they should +despatch a deputation of their friends to wait upon his lordship, +requesting the aid of his eloquence in pleading their cause against +the tyrants who so unjustifiably hold them in durance. + +The proposal, it seems, was very generally approved; but nevertheless, +it was at last negatived on the representation of a person who had +once heard his lordship argue in the French language. This is the more +to be regretted by the friends of these suffering victims, since their +choice of defenders is to be restricted to members of the bar: and +this restriction, narrow-minded and severe as it is, would not exclude +his lordship; a legal advocate being beyond all question a legal +advocate all the world over. + +It was not till we had sent out in one or two directions to ascertain +if all things were quiet, that we ventured to keep an engagement which +we had made for last night to pass the _soirée_ at Madame de L*****'s. +I should have been sorry to have lost it; for the business of the +morning appeared to have awakened the spirits and set everybody +talking. There are few things I like better than listening to a full, +free flow of Paris talk; particularly when, as in this instance, the +party is small and in a lively mood. + +It appears as if there were nothing like caution or reserve here in +any direction. Among those whom I have had the satisfaction of +occasionally meeting are some who figure amongst the most important +personages of the day; but their conversation is as gaily unrestrained +as if they had nothing to do but to amuse themselves. These, indeed, +are not likely to commit themselves; but I have known others less +secure, who have appeared to permit every thought that occurred to +them to meet the ear of whoever chose to listen. In short, whatever +restraint the police, which by its nature is very phoenix-like, may +endeavour to put upon the periodical press, its influence certainly +does not as yet reach the lips, which open with equal freedom for the +expression of faith, scepticism, loyalty, treason, philosophy, and +wit. + +In an intercourse so transient as mine is likely to be with most of +the acquaintance I have formed here,--an intercourse consisting +chiefly, as to the manner of it, of evening visits through a series of +_salons_,--amusement is naturally more sought than information: and +were it otherwise, I should, with some few exceptions, have reaped +disappointment instead of pleasure; for it is evident that the same +feeling which leads the majority of persons you meet in society here, +to speak freely, prevents them from saying anything seriously. So +that, after talking for an hour or two upon subjects which one should +think very gravely important, a light word, a light laugh, ends the +colloquy, and very often leaves me in doubt as to the real sentiments +of those to whom I have been listening. + +But if not always successful in obtaining information, I never fail in +finding amusement. Rarely, even for a moment, does conversation +languish; and a string of lively nothings, or a startling succession +of seemingly bold, but really unmeaning speculations, often make me +imagine that a vast deal of talent has been displayed; yet, when +memory sets to work upon it, little remains worth recording. +Nevertheless, there is talent, and of a very charming kind too, in +this manner of uttering trifles so that they may be mistaken for wit. + +I know some few in our own dear land who have also this happy gift; +and, as a matter of grace and mere exterior endowment, I question if +it be not fairly worth all the rest. But I believe we have it in about +the same proportion that we have good actors of genteel comedy, +compared to the number which they can boast of the same class here. +With us this easy, natural style of mimicking real life is a rare +talent, though sometimes possessed in great perfection; but with them +it seems more or less the birthright of all. + +So is it with the gift of that bright colloquial faculty which bestows +such indescribable grace upon the airy nothings uttered in French +drawing-rooms. To listen to it, is very like quaffing the sparkling, +frothy beverage native to their sunny hills;--French talk is very like +champagne. The exhilaration it produces is instantaneous: the spirits +mount, and something like wit is often struck out even from dull +natures by merely coming in contact with what is so brilliant. + +I could almost venture to assert that the effect of this delightful +inspiration might be perceived by any one who had gained admission to +French society even if they did not understand the language. Let an +observing eye, well accustomed to read the expression so legibly, +though so transiently written in the countenances of persons in +conversation,--let such a one only see, if he cannot hear, the effect +produced by the hits and flashes of French eloquence. Allow me another +simile, and I will tell you that it is like applying electricity to a +bunch of feathers tied together and attached to the conductor by a +thread: first one, then another starts, flies off, mounts, and drops +again, as the bright spark passes lightly, gracefully, capriciously, +yet still all making part of one circle. + +Of course, I am not speaking now of large parties; these, as I think I +have said before, are wonderfully alike in all lands, and nothing +approaching to conversation can possibly take place at any of them. It +is only where the circle is restricted to a few that this sort of +effect can be produced; and then, the impulse once given by a piquant +word, seemingly uttered at random, every one present receives a share +of it, and contributes in return all the lively thoughts to which it +has given birth. + +But there was one gentleman of our party yesterday evening who had a +most provoking trick of attracting one's attention as if on purpose to +disappoint it. He was not quite like Molière's Timante, of whom +Célimène says, + + "Et, jusques au bonjour, il dit tout à l'oreille;" + +but in the midst of pleasant talk, in which all were interested, he +said aloud-- + +"_Par exemple!_ I heard the very best thing possible to-day about the +King. Will you hear it, Madame B...?" + +This question being addressed to a decided doctrinaire, the answer was +of course a reproachful shake of the head; but as it was accompanied +by half a smile, and as the lady bent her fair neck towards the +speaker, she, and she only, was made acquainted with "the best of all +possible things," conveyed in a whisper. + +At another time he addressed himself to the lady of the house; but as +he spoke across the circle, he not only fixed her attention, but that +of every one else. + +"Madame!" said he coaxingly, "will you let me tell you a little word +of treason?" + +"Comment?--de la trahison?... Apropos de quoi, s'il vous plaît?... +Mais c'est égal--contez toujours." + +On receiving this answer, the whisperer of good stories got up from +the depth of his arm-chair--an enterprise of some difficulty, for he +was neither rapid nor light in his movements,--and deliberately +walking round the chairs of all the party, he placed himself behind +Madame de L*****, and whispered in her ear what made her colour and +shake her head again; but she laughed too, telling him that she hated +timid politics, and had no taste for any _trahisons_ which were not +"_hautement prononcées_." + +This hint sent him back to his place; but it was taken very +good-humouredly, for, instead of whispering any more, he uttered aloud +sundry odds and ends of gossip, but all so well dressed up in lively +wording, that they sounded very like good stories. + + + + +LETTER XIX. + + Victor Hugo.--Racine. + + +I have again been listening to some curious details respecting the +present state of literature in France. I think I have before stated to +you, that I have uniformly heard the whole of the _décousu_ school of +authors spoken of with unmitigated contempt,--and that not only by the +venerable advocates for the _bon vieux temps_, but also, and equally, +by the distinguished men of the present day--distinguished both by +position and ability. + +Respecting Victor Hugo, the only one of the tribe to which I allude +who has been sufficiently read in England to justify his being classed +by us as a person of general celebrity, the feeling is more remarkable +still. I have never mentioned him or his works to any person of good +moral feeling and cultivated mind, who did not appear to shrink from +according him even the degree of reputation that those who are +received as authority among our own critics have been disposed to +allow him. I might say, that of him France seems to be ashamed. + +Again and again it has happened to me, when I have asked the opinions +of individuals as to the merit of his different plays, that I have +been answered thus:-- + +"I assure you I know nothing about it: I never saw it played." + +"Have you read it?" + +"No; I have not. I cannot read the works of Victor Hugo." + +One gentleman, who has heard me more than once persist in my inquiries +respecting the reputation enjoyed by Victor Hugo at Paris as a man of +genius and a successful dramatic writer, told me, that he saw that, in +common with the generality of foreigners, particularly the English, I +looked upon Victor Hugo and his productions as a sort of type or +specimen of the literature of France at the present hour. "But permit +me to assure you," he added gravely and earnestly, "that no idea was +ever more entirely and altogether erroneous. He is the head of a +sect--the high-priest of a congregation who have abolished every law, +moral and intellectual, by which the efforts of the human mind have +hitherto been regulated. He has attained this pre-eminence, and I +trust that no other will arise to dispute it with him. But Victor Hugo +is NOT a popular French writer." + +Such a judgment as this, or the like of it, I have heard passed upon +him and his works nine times out of ten that I have mentioned him; +and I consider this as a proof of right feeling and sound taste, which +is extremely honourable, and certainly more than we have lately given +our neighbours credit for. It pleased me the more perhaps because I +did not expect it. There is so much meretricious glitter in the works +of Victor Hugo,--nay, so much real brightness now and then,--that I +expected to find at least the younger and less reflective part of the +population warm in their admiration of him. + +His clinging fondness for scenes of vice and horror, and his utter +contempt for all that time has stamped as good in taste or feeling, +might, I thought, arise from the unsettled spirit of the times; and if +so, he could not fail of receiving the meed of sympathy and praise +from those who had themselves set that spirit at work. + +But it is not so. The wild vigour of some of his descriptions is +acknowledged; but that is all of praise that I ever heard bestowed +upon Victor Hugo's theatrical productions in his native land. + +The startling, bold, and stirring incidents of his disgusting dramas +must and will excite a certain degree of attention when seen for the +first time, and it is evidently the interest of managers to bring +forward whatever is most likely to produce this effect; but the doing +so cannot be quoted as a proof of the systematic degradation of the +theatre. It is moreover a fact, which the play-bills themselves are +alone sufficient to attest, that after Victor Hugo's plays have had +their first run, they are never brought forward again: not one of them +has yet become what we call a stock-play. + +This fact, which was first stated to me by a person perfectly _au +fait_ of the subject, has been subsequently confirmed by many others; +and it speaks more plainly than any recorded criticism could do, what +the public judgment of these pieces really is. + +The romance of "Notre Dame de Paris" is ever cited as Victor Hugo's +best work, excepting some early lyrical pieces of which we know +nothing. But even this, though there are passages of extraordinary +descriptive power in it, is always alluded to with much more of +contempt than admiration; and I have heard it ridiculed in circles, +whose praise was fame, with a light pleasantry more likely to prove an +antidote to its mischief than all the reprobation that sober criticism +could pour out upon it. + +But may not this champion of vice--this chronicler of sin, shame, and +misery--quote Scripture and say, "A prophet is not without honour, +save in his own country"? For I have seen a criticism in an English +paper (The Examiner) which says, "_The_ Notre Dame _of Victor Hugo +must take rank with the best romances by the author of_ Waverley.... +_It transcends them in vigour, animation, and familiarity with the +age._" + +In reply to the last point here mentioned, in which our countryman has +given the superiority to Victor Hugo over Sir Walter Scott, a very +strong testimony against its correctness has reached me since I have +been in Paris. An able lawyer, and most accomplished gentleman and +scholar, who holds a distinguished station in the Cour Royale, took us +to see the Palais de Justice. Having shown us the chamber where +criminal trials are carried on, he observed, that this was the room +described by Victor Hugo in his romance; adding,--"He was, however, +mistaken here, as in most places _where he affects a knowledge of the +times of which he writes_. In the reign of Louis the Eleventh, no +criminal trials ever took place within the walls of this building; and +all the ceremonies as described by him resemble much more a trial of +yesterday than of the age at which he dates his tale." + +The vulgar old adage, that "there is no accounting for taste," must, I +suppose, teach us to submit patiently to the hearing of any judgments +and opinions which it is the will and pleasure of man to pronounce; +but it does seem strange that any can be found who, after bringing Sir +Walter Scott and Victor Hugo into comparison, should give the palm of +superiority to the author of "Notre Dame de Paris." + +Were the faults of this school of authors only of a literary kind, few +persons, I believe, would take the trouble to criticise them, and +their nonsense would die a natural death as soon as it was made to +encounter the light of day: but such productions as Victor Hugo's are +calculated to do great injury to human nature. They would teach us to +believe that all our gentlest and best affections can only lead to +crime and infamy. There is not, I truly believe, a single pure, +innocent, and holy thought to be found throughout his writings: Sin is +the muse he invokes--he would + + "Take off the rose + From the fair forehead of an innocent love, + And set a blister there;" + +Horror is his handmaid; and "thousands of liveried _monsters_ lackey +him," to furnish the portraits with which it is the occupation of his +life to disgust the world. + +Can there, think you, be a stronger proof of a diseased intellect +among the _décousu_ part of the world, than that they not only admire +this man's hideous extravagances, but that they actually believe him +to be ... at least they say so ... a second Shakspeare!... A +Shakspeare! + +To chastise as he deserves an author who may be said to defy mankind +by the libels he has put forth on the whole race, requires a stouter +and a keener weapon than any a woman can wield; but when they prate of +Shakspeare, I feel that it is our turn to speak. How much of +gratitude and love does every woman owe to him! He, who has entered +deeper into her heart than ever mortal did before or since his day, +how has he painted her?--As Portia, Juliet, Constance, Hermione;--as +Cordelia, Volumnia, Isabella, Desdemona, Imogene! + +Then turn and see for what we have to thank our modern painter. Who +are his heroines?--Lucrèce Borgia, Marion de Lorme, Blanche, +Maguelonne, with I know not how many more of the same stamp; besides +his novel heroine, whom Mr. Henry Lytton Bulwer calls "the most +delicate female ever drawn by the pen of romance"--The Esmeralda! ... +whose sole accomplishments are dancing and singing in the streets, and +who ... delicate creature! ... being caught up by a horseman in a +midnight brawl, throws her arms round his neck, swears he is very +handsome, and thenceforward shows the delicate tenderness of her +nature, by pertinaciously doting upon him, without any other return or +encouragement whatever than an insulting caress bestowed upon her one +night when he was drunk ... "delicate female!" + +But this is all too bad to dwell upon. It is, however, in my +estimation a positive duty, when mentioning the works of Victor Hugo, +to record a protest against their tone and tendency; and it is also a +duty to correct, as far as one can, the erroneous impression existing +in England respecting his reputation in France. + +Whenever his name is mentioned in England, his success is cited as a +proof of the depraved state, moral and intellectual, of the French +people. And such it would be, were his success and reputation such as +his partisans represent them to be. But, in point of fact, the manner +in which he is judged by his own countrymen is the strongest possible +evidence that neither a powerful fancy, a commanding diction, nor an +imagination teeming with images of intense passion, can suffice to +ensure an author any exalted reputation in France at the present day +if he outrages good feeling and good taste. + +Should any doubt the correctness of this statement, I can only refer +them to the source from whence I derived the information on which it +is founded,--I can only refer them to France herself. There is one +fact, however, which may be ascertained without crossing the +Channel;--namely, that when one of their reviews found occasion to +introduce an article upon the modern drama, the editors acquitted +themselves of the task by translating the whole of the able article +upon that subject which appeared about a year and a half ago in the +Quarterly, acknowledging to what source they were indebted for it. + +Were the name and the labours of Victor Hugo confined to his own +country, it would now be high time that I should release you from him; +but it is an English critic who has said, that he has heaved the +ground from under the feet of Racine; and you must indulge me for a +few minutes, while I endeavour to bring the two parties together +before you. In doing this, I will be generous; for I will introduce M. +Hugo in "Le Roi s'amuse," which, from the circumstance (the happiest, +I was assured, that ever befel the author) of its being withdrawn by +authority from the Théâtre Français, has become infinitely more +celebrated than any other he has written. + +It may be remarked by the way, that a few more such acts of decent +watchfulness over the morals and manners of the people may redeem the +country from the stigma it now bears of being the most licentious in +its theatre and its press in the world. + +The first glorious moment of being forbidden at the Français appears +almost to have turned the lucky author's brain. His preface to "Le Roi +s'amuse," among many other symptoms of insanity has the following:-- + +"Le premier mouvement de l'auteur fut de douter.... L'acte était +arbitraire au point d'être incroyable.... L'auteur ne pouvait croire à +tant d'insolence et de folie.... Le ministre avait en effet, de son +droit divin de ministre, intimé l'ordre.... Le ministre lui avait pris +sa pièce, lui avait pris son droit, lui avait pris sa chose. Il ne +restait plus qu'à le mettre, lui poëte, à la Bastille.... Est-ce qu'il +y a eu en effet quelque chose qu'on a appelé la révolution de +Juillet?... Que peut être le motif d'une pareille mesure?... Il parait +que nos faiseurs de censure se prétendent scandalisés dans leur morale +par 'Le Roi s'amuse;' le nom seul du poëte inculpé aurait dû être une +suffisante réfutation (!!!)... Cette pièce a révolté la pudeur des +gendarmes; la brigade Léotaud y était, et l'a trouvé obscène; le +bureau des moeurs s'est voilé la face; M. Vidocq a rougi.... Holà, +mes maîtres! Silence sur ce point!... Depuis quand n'est-il plus +permis à un roi de courtiser sur la scène une servante d'auberge?... +Mener un roi dans un mauvais lieu, cela ne serait pas même nouveau non +plus.... L'auteur veut l'art chaste, et non l'art prude.... Il est +profondement triste de voir comment se termine la révolution de +Juillet...." + +Then follows a _précis_ of the extravagant and hateful plot, in which +the heroine is, as usual, "une fille séduite et perdue;" and he sums +it up thus pompously:--"Au fond d'un des ouvrages de l'auteur il y a +la fatalité--au fond de celui-ci il y a la providence." + +I wish much that some one would collect and publish in a separate +volume all M. Victor Hugo's prefaces; I would purchase it instantly, +and it would be a fund of almost inexhaustible amusement. He assumes a +tone in them which, all things considered, is perhaps unequalled in +the history of literature. In another part of the one from which I +have given the above extracts, he says-- + +"Vraiment, le pouvoir qui s'attaque à nous n'aura pas gagné grand' +chose à ce que nous, hommes d'art, nous quittions notre tâche +consciencieuse, tranquille, sincère, profonde; notre tâche sainte...." +What on earth, if it be not insanity, could have put it into Mr. +Hugo's head that the manufacturing of his obscene dramas was "une +tâche sainte"? + +The principal characters in "Le Roi s'amuse" are François Premier; +Triboulet, his pander and buffoon; Blanche, the daughter of Triboulet, +"la fille séduite," and heroine of the piece; and Maguelonne, another +Esmeralda. + +The interest lies in the contrast between Triboulet pander and +Triboulet père. He is himself the most corrupt and infamous of men; +and because he is humpbacked, makes it both his pastime and his +business to lead the king his master into every species of debauchery: +but he shuts up his daughter to preserve her purity; and the poet has +put forth all his strength in describing the worship which Triboulet +père pays to the virtue which he passes his life as Triboulet pander +in destroying. + +Of course, the king falls in love with Blanche, and she with him; and +Triboulet pander is made to assist in carrying her off in the dark, +under the belief that she was the wife of a nobleman to whom also his +majesty the king was making love. + +When Triboulet père and pander finds out what he has done, he falls +into a terrible agony: and here again is a _tour de force_, to show +how pathetically such a father can address such a daughter. + +He resolves to murder the king, and informs his daughter, who is +passionately attached to her royal seducer, of his intention. She +objects, but is at length brought to consent by being made to peep +through a hole in the wall, and seeing his majesty King Francis +engaged in making love to Maguelonne. + +This part of the plot is brought out shortly and pithily. + + BLANCHE (_peeping through the hole in the wall_). + Et cette femme! ... est-elle affrontée! ... oh!... + + TRIBOULET. + Tais-toi; + Pas de pleurs. Laisse-moi te venger! + + BLANCHE. + Hélas!--Faites-- + Tout ce que vous voudrez. + + TRIBOULET. + Merci! + +This _merci_, observe, is not said ironically, but gravely and +gratefully. Having arranged this part of the business, he gives his +daughter instructions as to what she is to do with herself, in the +following sublime verses:-- + + TRIBOULET. + Écoute. Va chez moi, prends-y des habits d'homme, + Un cheval, de l'argent, n'importe quelle somme; + Et pars, sans t'arrêter un instant en chemin, + Pour Evreux, où j'irai te joindre après-demain. + --Tu sais ce coffre auprès du portrait de ta mère; + L'habit est là,--je l'ai d'avance exprès fait faire. + +Having dismissed his daughter, he settles with a gipsy-man named +Saltabadil, who is the brother of Maguelonne, all the details of the +murder, which is to be performed in their house, a small cabaret at +which the foul weather and the fair Maguelonne induce the royal rake +to pass the night. Triboulet leaves them an old sack in which they are +to pack up the body, and promises to return at midnight, that he may +himself see it thrown into the Seine. + +Blanche meanwhile departs; but feeling some compunctious visitings +about the proposed murder of her lover, returns, and again applying +her ear to the hole in the wall, finds that his majesty is gone to bed +in the garret, and that the brother and sister are consulting about +his death. Maguelonne, a very "delicate female," objects too; she +admires his beauty, and proposes that his life shall be spared if any +stranger happens to arrive whose body may serve to fill the sack. +Blanche, in a fit of heroic tenderness, determines to be that +stranger; exclaiming, + + "Eh bien! ... mourons pour lui!" + +But before she knocks at the door, she kneels down to say her prayers, +particularly for forgiveness to all her enemies. Here are the verses, +making part of those which have overthrown Racine:-- + + BLANCHE. + Oh! Dieu, vers qui je vais, + Je pardonne à tous ceux qui m'ont été mauvais: + Mon père et vous, mon Dieu! pardonnez-leurs de même + Au roi François Premier, que je plains et que j'aime. + +She knocks, the door opens, she is stabbed and consigned to the sack. +Her father arrives immediately after as by appointment, receives the +sack, and prepares to drag it towards the river, handling it with +revengeful ecstasy, and exclaiming-- + + Maintenant, monde, regarde-moi: + Ceci, c'est un bouffon; et ceci, c'est un roi. + +At this triumphant moment he hears the voice of the king, singing as +he walks away from the dwelling of Maguelonne. + + TRIBOULET. + Mais qui donc m'a-t-il mis à sa place, le traître! + +He cuts open the sack; and a flash of lightning very melodramatically +enables him to recognise his daughter, who revives, to die in his +arms. + +This is beyond doubt what may be called "a tragic situation;" and I +confess it does seem very hard-hearted to laugh at it: but the _pas_ +that divides the sublime from the ridiculous is not distinctly seen, +and there is something vulgar and ludicrous, both in the position and +language of the parties, which quite destroys the pathetic effect. + +It must be remembered that she is dressed in the "habit d'homme" of +which her father says so poetically-- + + Je l'ai d'avance exprès fait faire. + +Observe, too, that she is still in the sack; the stage directions +being, "Le bas du corps, qui est resté vêtu, est caché dans le sac." + + BLANCHE. + Où suis-je? + + TRIBOULET. + Blanche! que t'a-t-on fait? Quel mystère infernal! + Je crains en te touchant de te faire du mal.... + Ah! la cloche du bac est là sur la muraille: + Ma pauvre enfant, peux-tu m'attendre un peu, que j'aille + Chercher de l'eau.... + +A surgeon arrives, and having examined her wound, says, + + Elle est morte. + Elle a dans le flanc gauche une plaie assez forte: + Le sang a dû causer la mort en l'étouffant. + + TRIBOULET. + J'ai tué mon enfant! J'ai tué mon enfant! + (_Il tombe sur le pavé._) + + FIN. + +All this is very shocking; but it is not tragedy,--and it is not +poetry. Yet it is what we are told has heaved the earth from under +Racine! + +After such a sentence as this, it must be, I know, _rococo_ to name +him; but yet I would say, in his own words, + + D'adorateurs zélés à peine un petit nombre + Ose des premiers temps nous retracer quelque ombre; + Le reste.... + Se fait initier à ces honteux mystères, + Et blasphème le nom qu'ont invoqué leurs pères. + +As I profess myself of the _petit nombre_, you must let me recall to +your memory some of the fragments of that noble edifice which Racine +raised over him, and which, as they say, has now perished under the +mighty power of Victor Hugo. It will not be lost time to do this; for +look where you will among the splendid material of this uprooted +temple, and you will find no morsel that is not precious; nothing that +is not designed, chiseled, and finished by the hand of a master. + +Racine has not produced dramas from ordinary life; it was not his +object to do so, nor is it the end he has attained. It is the tragedy +of heroes and demi-gods that he has given us, and not of cut-purses, +buffoons, and street-walkers. + +If the language of Racine be poetry, that of M. Hugo is not; and +wherever the one is admired, the other must of necessity be valueless. +It would be endless to attempt giving citations to prove the grace, +the dignity, the majestic flow of Racine's verse; but let your eye run +over "Iphigénie," for instance,--there also the loss of a daughter +forms the tragic interest,--and compare such verses as those I have +quoted above with any that you can find in Racine. + +Hear the royal mother, for example, describe the scene that awaits +her: + + Un prêtre environné d'une foule cruelle + Portera sur ma fille une main criminelle, + Déchirera son sein, et d'un oeil curieux + Dans son coeur palpitant consultera les dieux; + --Et moi--qui l'amenai triomphante, adorée, + Je m'en retournerai, seule, et désespérée. + +Surely this is of a better fabric than-- + + Tu sais ce coffre auprès du portrait de ta mère; + L'habit est là,--je l'ai d'avance exprès fait faire. + +I have little doubt but that the inspired author, when this noble +phrase, "exprès fait faire," suggested itself, felt ready to exclaim, +in the words of Philaminte and Bélise-- + + Ah! que cet "exprès fait" est d'un goût admirable! + C'est à mon sentiment un endroit impayable; + J'entends là-dessous un million de mots.-- + --Il est vrai qu'il dit plus de choses qu'il n'est gros. + +But to take the matter seriously, let us examine a little the ground +upon which this school of dramatic writers found their claim to +superiority over their classic predecessors. Is it not that they +declare themselves to be more true to nature? And how do they support +this claim? Were you to read through every play that M. Hugo has +written--(and may you long be preserved from so great annoyance!)--I +doubt if you would find a single personage with whom you could +sympathise, or a single sentiment or opinion that you would feel true +to the nature within you. + +It would be much less difficult, I conceive, so strongly to excite the +imagination by the majestic eloquence of Racine's verses as to make +you conscious of fellow-feeling with his sublime personages, than to +debase your very heart and soul so thoroughly as to enable you to +fancy that you have anything in common with the corrupt creations of +Victor Hugo. + +But even were it otherwise--were the scenes imagined by this new +Shakspeare more like the real villany of human nature than those of +the noble writer he is said to have set aside, I should still deny +that this furnished any good reason for bringing such scenes upon the +stage. Why should we make a pastime of looking upon vulgar vice? Why +should the lowest passions of our nature be for ever brought out in +parade before us? + + "It is not and it cannot be for good." + +The same reasoning might lead us to turn from the cultured garden, its +marble terraces, its velvet lawns, its flowers and fruits of every +clime, that we might take our pleasure in a bog--and for all +consolation be told, when we slip and flounder about in its loathsome +slime, that it is more natural. + +I have written you a most unmerciful letter, and it is quite time +that I should quit the theme, for I get angry--angry that I have no +power to express in words all I feel on this subject. Would that for +one short hour or so I had the pen which wrote the "Dunciad!"--I would +use it--heartily--and then take my leave by saying, + + "Rentre dans le néant, dont je t'ai fait sortir." + + + + +LETTER XX. + + Versailles.--St. Cloud. + + +The Château de Versailles, that marvellous _chef-d'oeuvre_ of the +splendid taste and unbounded extravagance of Louis le Grand, is shut +up, and has been so for the last eighteen months. This is a great +disappointment to such of our party as have never seen its +interminable chambers and their gorgeous decorations. The reason +assigned for this unwonted exclusion of the public is, that the whole +of this enormous pile is filled with workmen; not, however, for the +purpose of restoring it as a palace for the king, but of preparing it +as a sort of universal museum for the nation. The buildings are in +fact too extensive for a palace; and splendid as it is, I can easily +believe no king of modern days would wish to inhabit it. I have +sometimes wondered that Napoleon did not take a fancy to its vastness; +but, I believe, he had no great taste in the upholstering line, and +preferred converting his millions into the sinews of war, to the +possession of all the carving and gilding in the world. + +If this projected museum, however, should be _monté_ with science, +judgment and taste, and on the usual scale of French magnificence, it +will be turning the costly whim of _le Grand Monarque_ to excellent +account. + +The works which are going on there, were mentioned at a party the +other evening, when some one stated that it was the intention of the +King to convert one portion of the building into a gallery of national +history, that should contain pictures of all the victories which +France had ever won. + +The remark made in reply amused me much, it was so very French.--"Ma +foi!... Mais cette galerie-là doit être bien longue--et assez +ennuyeuse pour les étrangers." + +Though the château was closed to us, we did not therefore give up our +purposed expedition to Versailles: every object there is interesting, +not only from its splendour, but from the recollections it revives of +scenes with whose history we are all familiar. Not only the horrors of +the last century, but all the regal glories of the preceding one, are +so well known to everybody, that there must have been a prodigious +deal of gossip handed down to us from France, or we never could feel +so much better acquainted with events which have passed at Versailles +than with any scenes that have occurred at an equal distance of time +at Windsor. + +But so it is; and the English go there not merely as strangers +visiting a palace in a foreign land, but as pilgrims to the shrine of +the princes and poets who have left their memory there, and with whose +names and histories they are as familiar as if they belonged to us. + +The day we passed among the royal spectres that never fail to haunt +one at this palace of recollections, was a mixture of sunshine and +showers, and our meditations seemed to partake of the vicissitude. + +It is said that the great Louis reared this stupendous dwelling in +which to pass the gilded hours of his idleness, because from St. +Germain's he could see the plain of St. Denis, over which his funeral +array was to pass, and the spire that marked the spot where his too +precious dust was to be laid. Happy was it for him that the +scutcheoned sepulchre of St. Denis was the most distant and most +gloomy point to which his prophetic glance could reach! Could the +great king have looked a little farther, and dreamed of the scenes +which were destined to follow this dreaded passage to his royal tomb, +how would he have blessed the fate which permitted him to pass into it +so peacefully! + +It is quite wonderful to see how much of the elaborate decoration and +fine finishing of this sumptuous place remains uninjured after being +visited by the most ferocious mob that ever collected together. Had +they been less intent on the savage object of their mission, it is +probable that they would have sated their insane rage in destroying +the palace itself, and the costly decorations of its singular gardens. +Though far inferior in all ways either to the gardens of the Elector +of Hesse Cassel at Wilhelmshöhe, or to those of the Grand Duke of +Baden at Schwetzingen, those of Versailles are still highly +interesting from many causes, and have so much of majesty and pomp +about them, that one cannot look upon them without feeling that only +the kings of the earth could ever have had a master's right to take +their pleasure therein. + +Before we entered upon the orderly confusion of groves, statues, +temples, and water-works through which it is necessary to be led, we +made our grey-headed guide lead us round and about every part of the +building while we listened to his string of interesting old stories +about Louis Seize, and Marie Antoinette, and Monsieur, and le Comte +d'Artois, (for he seemed to have forgotten that they had borne any +other titles than those he remembered in his youth,) all of whom +seemed to retain exactly the same place in his imagination that they +had occupied some fifty years ago, when he was assistant to the keeper +of the _orangerie_. He boasted, with a vanity as fresh as if it had +been newly born, of the honours of that near approach to royalty which +he had formerly enjoyed; recounted how the Queen called one of the +orange-trees her own, because she fancied its blossoms sweeter than +all the rest; and how from such a broad-leafed double-blossoming +myrtle he had daily gathered a _bouquet_ for her majesty, which was +laid upon her toilet exactly at two o'clock. This old man knew every +orange-tree, its birth and history, as well as a shepherd knows his +flock. The venerable father of the band dates his existence from the +reign of François Premier, and truly he enjoys a green old age. The +one surnamed Louis le Grand, who was twin brother, as he said, to that +mighty monarch, looks like a youth beside it--and you are told that it +has not yet attained its full growth. + +Oh! could those orange-trees but speak! could they recount to us the +scenes they have witnessed; could they describe to us all the beauties +over whom they have shed their fragrant flowers--all the heroes, +statesmen, poets, and princes who have stepped in courtly paces +beneath their shade; what a world of witty wickedness, of solemn +warning, and of sad reflection, we should have! + +But though the orange-trees were mute, our old man talked enough for +them all. He was a faithful servant to the old _régime_: and indeed it +should seem that there is something in the air of Versailles +favourable alike to orange-trees and loyalty; for never did I hear, +while wandering amidst their aristocratic perfume, one word that was +not of sound orthodox legitimate loyalty to the race for whose +service they have for so many hundred years lived and bloomed. And +still they blossom on, unscathed by revolution, unblighted though an +usurper called them his;--happier in this than many of those who were +once privileged to parade their dignity beneath their royal shade. The +old servitors still move among these venerable vegetable grandees with +the ceremonious air of courtiers, offering obsequious service, if not +to the king himself, at least to his cousin-germans; and I am +persuaded there is not one of these old serving-men, who wander about +Versailles like ghosts revisiting the scenes of former happiness, who +would not more humbly pull off his hat to François Premier or Louis le +Grand in the greenhouse, than to any monarch of a younger race. + +Napoleon has left less trace of himself and his giant power at +Versailles than anywhere else; and the naïads and hamadryads still +lift their sculptured heads with such an eternity of stately grace, as +makes one feel the evanescent nature of the interlude that was played +among them during the empire. It is of the old race of Bourbon that +the whole region is redolent. "There," said our old guide, "is the +range of chambers that was occupied by the Queen ... those were the +King's apartments ... there were the royal children ... there Monsieur +... and there the Comte d'Artois." + +Then we were led round to the fatal balcony which overhangs the +entrance. It was there that the fallen Marie Antoinette stood, her +young son in her arms, and the doomed King her husband beside her, +when she looked down upon the demons drunk with blood, who sought her +life. I had heard all this hateful, but o'er-true history, more than +once before on the same spot, and shortening the frightful detail, I +hastened to leave it, though I believe the good old man would +willingly have spent hours in dwelling upon it. + +The day had been named as one on which the great waters were to play. +But, little as Nature has to do with this pretty exhibition, she +interfered on this occasion to prevent it. There was no water. The dry +winter would, they told us, probably render it impossible to play them +during the whole summer. + +Here was another disappointment; but we bore it heroically, and after +examining and much admiring the numberless allegories which people the +grounds, and to the creation of which, a poet must have been as +necessary as a sculptor, we adjourned to the Trianons, there to +meditate on all the ceaseless vicissitudes of female influence from +Maintenon to Josephine. It is but a sad review, but it may serve well +to reconcile the majority of womankind to the tranquil dreaminess of +obscurity. + +The next thing to be done was dining--and most wretchedly done it was: +but we found something to laugh at, nevertheless; for when the wine +brought to us was found too bad to drink, and we ordered better, no +less than four bottles were presented to us in succession, each one +increasing in price, but being precisely of the same quality. When we +charged the black-eyed daughter of the house with the fact, she said +with perfect good-humour, but nowise denying it, that she was very +sorry they had no better. When the bill was brought, the same damsel +civilly hoped that we should not think ten sous (half-a-franc) too +much to pay for having opened so many bottles. Now, as three of them +were firmly corked, and carefully sealed besides, we paid our ten sous +without any complaining. + +The looking at a fête at St. Cloud made part of the business of the +day; but in order to get there, we were obliged to mount into one of +those indescribable vehicles by which the gay _bourgeoisie_ of Paris +are conveyed from palace to palace, and from _guinguette_ to +_guinguette_. We had dismissed our comfortable _citadine_, being +assured that we should have no difficulty in finding another. In this, +however, we were disappointed, the proportion of company appearing +greatly to exceed that of the carriages which were to convey them, and +we considered ourselves fortunate in securing places in an equipage +which we should have scorned indignantly when we quitted Paris in the +morning. + +The whimsical gaiety of the crowd, all hurrying one way, was very +amusing; all anxious to reach St. Cloud before the promised +half-hour's display of water-works were over; all testifying, by look, +gesture, voice, and words, that light effervescence of animal spirits +so essentially characteristic of the country, and all forming a moving +panorama so gay and so bright as almost to make one giddy by looking +at it. + +Some among the capricious variety of vehicles were drawn by five or +six horses. These were in truth nothing but gaily-painted waggons, +hung on rude springs, with a flat awning over them. In several I +counted twenty persons; but there were some few among them in which +one or perhaps two seats were still vacant--and then the rapturous +glee of the party was excited to the utmost by the efforts of the +driver, as gay as themselves, to obtain customers to fill the +vacancies. + +Every individual overtaken on the road was invited by the most +clamorous outcries to occupy the vacant seats. "St. Cloud! St. Cloud! +St. Cloud!" shouted by the driver and re-echoed by all his company, +rang in the startled ears of all they passed; and if a traveller +soberly journeying in the contrary direction was met, the invitation +was uttered with tenfold vehemence, accompanied by shouts of laughter; +which, far from offending the party who provoked it, was invariably +answered with equal frolic and fun. But when upon one occasion a +carriage posting almost at full gallop towards Versailles was +encountered, the ecstasy of mirth with which it was greeted exceeds +description. "St. Cloud! St. Cloud! St. Cloud!--Tournez donc, +messieurs--tournez à St. Cloud!" The shouts and vociferations were +enough to frighten all the horses in the world excepting French ones; +and they must be so thoroughly broken to the endurance of din, that +there is little danger of their starting at it. I could have almost +fancied that upon this occasion they took part in it; for they shook +their ropes and their tassels, snorted and tossed, very much as if +they enjoyed the fun. + +After all, we, and many hundred others, arrived too late for the show, +the supply of water failing even before the promised half-hour had +elapsed. The gardens, however, were extremely full, and all the world +looked as gay and as well-pleased as if nothing had gone wrong. + +I wonder if these people ever grow old,--that is, old as we do, +sitting in the chimney-corner, and dreaming no more of fêtes than of +playing at blind-man's-buff. I have certainly seen here, as elsewhere, +men, and women too, grey-headed, and wrinkled enough to be as solemn +as the most venerable judge upon the bench; but I never saw any that +did not seem ready to hop, skip, jump, waltz, and make love. + + + + +LETTER XXI. + + History of the Vicomte de B----. His opinions.--State of + France.--Expediency. + + +I have had a curious conversation this morning with an old gentleman +whom I believed to be a thorough legitimate, but who turns out, as you +will see, something else--I hardly know what to call it--_doctrinaire_ +I suppose it must be, yet it is not quite that either. + +But before I give you his opinions, let me present himself. M. le +Vicomte de B---- is a person that I am very sure you would be happy to +know anywhere. His residence is not in Paris, but at a château that he +describes as the most profound retirement imaginable; yet it is not +more than thirty leagues from Paris. He is a widower, and his only +child is a daughter, who has been some years married. + +The history of this gentleman, given as he gave it himself, was deeply +interesting. It was told with much feeling, some wit, and no +prolixity. Were I, however, to attempt to repeat it to you in the same +manner, it would become long and tedious, and in every way as unlike +as possible to what it was as it came fresh from the living fountain. + +In brief, then, I will tell you that he was the younger son of an old +and noble house, and, for seven years, page to Louis Seize. He must +have been strikingly handsome; and young as he was at the time of the +first revolution, he seems already to have found the court a very +agreeable residence. He had held a commission in the army about two +years, when his father, and his only brother, his elder by ten years, +were obliged to leave the country, to save their lives. + +The family was not a wealthy one, and great sacrifices were necessary +to enable them to live in England. What remained became eventually the +property of our friend, both father and brother having died in exile. +With this remnant of fortune he married, not very prudently; and +having lost his wife and disposed of his daughter in marriage, he is +now living in his large dilapidated château, with one female servant, +and an old man as major-domo, valet, and cook, who served with him in +La Vendée, and who, by his description, must be a perfect Corporal +Trim. + +I would give a good deal to be able to accept the invitation I have +received to pay him a visit at his castle. I think I should find just +such a _ménage_ as that which Scott so beautifully describes in one of +his prefaces. But the wish is vain, such an excursion being quite +impossible; so I must do without the castle, and content myself with +the long morning visits that its agreeable owner is so kind as to make +us. + +I have seen him frequently, and listened with great interest to his +little history; but it was only this morning that the conversation +took a speculative turn. I was quite persuaded, but certainly from my +own preconceived notions only, and not from anything I have heard him +say, that M. de B---- was a devoted legitimate. An old noble--page to +Louis Seize--a royalist soldier in La Vendée,--how could I think +otherwise? Yet he talked to me as ... you shall hear. + +Our conversation began by his asking me if I was conscious of much +material change in Paris since I last visited it. + +I replied, that I certainly saw some, but perhaps suspected more. + +"I dare say you do," said he; "it is what your nation is very apt to +do: but take my advice,--believe what you see, and nothing else." + +"But what one can see in the course of a month or two is so little, +and I hear so much." + +"That is true; but do you not find that what you hear from one person +is often contradicted by another?" + +"Constantly," I replied. + +"Then what can you do at last but judge by what you see?" + +"Why, it appears to me that the better plan would be to listen to all +parties, and let my balancing belief incline to the testimony that has +most weight." + +"Then be careful that this weight be not false. There are some who +will tell you that the national feeling which for so many centuries +has kept France together as a powerful and predominating people is +loosened, melted, and gone;--that though there are Frenchmen left, +there is no longer a French people." + +"To any who told me so," I replied, "I would say, that the division +they complained of, arose not so much from any change in the French +character, as from the false position in which many were unhappily +placed at the present moment. Men's hearts are divided because they +are diversely drawn aside from a common centre." + +"And you would say truly," said he; "but others will tell you, that +regenerated France will soon dictate laws to the whole earth; that her +flag will become the flag of all people--her government their +government; and that their tottering monarchies will soon crumble into +dust, to become part and parcel of her glorious republic." + +"And to these I should say, that they appeared to be in a very heavy +slumber, and that the sooner they could wake out of it and shake off +their feverish dreams, the better it would be for them." + +"But what would your inference be as to the state of the country from +such reports as these?" + +"I should think that, as usual, truth lay between. I should neither +believe that France was so united as to constitute a single-minded +giant, nor so divided as to have become a mass of unconnected atoms, +or a race of pigmies." + +"You know," he continued, "that the fashionable phrase for describing +our condition at present is, that we are in _a state of +transition_,--from butterflies to grubs, or from grubs to butterflies, +I know not which; but to me it seems that the transition is over,--and +it is high time that it should be so. The country has known neither +rest nor peace for nearly half a century; and powerful as she has been +and still is, she must at last fall a prey to whoever may think it +worth their while to despoil her, unless she stops short while it is +yet time, and strengthens herself by a little seasonable repose." + +"But how is this repose to be obtained?" said I. "Some of you wish to +have one king, some another, and some to have no king at all. This is +not a condition in which a country is very likely to find repose." + +"Not if each faction be of equal power, or sufficiently so to +persevere in struggling for the mastery. Our only hope lies in the +belief that there is no such equality. Let him who has seized the helm +keep it: if he be an able helmsman, he will keep us in smooth +water;--and it is no longer time for us to ask how he got his +commission; let us be thankful that he happens to be of the same +lineage as those to whose charge we have for so many ages committed +the safety of our bark." + +I believe my countenance expressed my astonishment; for the old +gentleman smiled and said, + +"Do I frighten you with my revolutionary principles?" + +"Indeed, you surprise me a little," I replied: "I should have thought +that the rights of a legitimate monarch would have been in your +opinion indefeasible." + +"Where is the law, my good lady, that may control necessity?... I +speak not of my own feelings, or of those of the few who were born +like myself in another era. Very terrible convulsions have passed over +France, and perhaps threaten the rest of Europe. I have for many years +stood apart and watched the storm; and I am quite sure, and find much +comfort in the assurance, that the crimes and passions of men cannot +change the nature of things. They may produce much misery, they may +disturb and confuse the peaceful current of events; but man still +remains as he was, and will seek his safety and his good, where he has +ever found them--under the shelter of power." + +"There, indeed, I quite agree with you. But surely the more lawful +and right the power is, the more likely it must be to remain tranquil +and undisputed in its influence." + +"France has no longer the choice," said he, interrupting me abruptly. +"I speak but as a looker-on; my political race is ended; I have more +than once sworn allegiance to the elder branch of the house of +Bourbon, and certainly nothing would tempt me to hold office or take +oath under any other. But do you think it would be the duty of a +Frenchman who has three grandsons native to the soil of France,--do +you really think it the duty of such a one to invoke civil war upon +the land of his fathers, and remembering only his king, to forget his +country? I will not tell you, that if I could wake to-morrow morning +and find a fifth Henry peacefully seated on the throne of his fathers, +I might not rejoice; particularly if I were sure that he would be as +likely to keep the naughty boys of Paris in order as I think his +cousin Philippe is. Were there profit in wishing, I would wish for +France a government so strong as should effectually prevent her from +destroying herself; and that government should have at its head a king +whose right to reign had come to him, not by force of arms, but by the +will of God in lawful succession. But when we mortals have a wish, we +may be thankful if the half of it be granted;--and, in truth, I think +that I have the first and better half of mine to rejoice in. There is +a stout and sturdy strength in the government of King Philippe, which +gives good hope that France may recover under its protection from her +sins and her sorrows, and again become the glory of her children." + +So saying, M. de B---- rose to leave me, and putting out his hand in +the English fashion, added, "I am afraid you do not like me so well as +you did.... I am no longer a true and loyal knight in your estimation +... but something, perhaps, very like a rebel and a traitor?... Is it +not so?" + +I hardly knew how to answer him. He certainly had lost a good deal of +that poetical elevation of character with which I had invested him; +yet there was a mixture of honesty and honour in his frankness that I +could not help esteeming. I thanked him very sincerely for the +openness with which he had spoken, but confessed that I had not quite +made up my mind to think that expediency was the right rule for human +actions. It certainly was not the noblest, and therefore I was willing +to believe that it was not the best. + +"I must go," said he, looking at his watch, "for it is my hour of +dining, or I think I could dispute with you a little upon your word +_expediency_. Whatever is really expedient for us to do--that is, +whatever is best for us in the situation in which we are actually +placed, is really right. Adieu!--I shall present myself again ere +long; and if you admit me, I shall be thankful." + +So saying, he departed,--leaving us all, I believe, a little less in +alt about him than before, but certainly with no inclination to shut +our doors against him. + + + + +LETTER XXII. + + Père Lachaise.--Mourning in public.--Defacing the Tomb of + Abelard and Eloïsa.--Baron Munchausen.--Russian + Monument.--Statue of Manuel. + + +Often as I have visited the enclosure of Père Lachaise, it was with +feelings of renewed curiosity and interest that I yesterday +accompanied thither those of my party who had not yet seen it. I was +well pleased to wander once more through the cypress alleys, now grown +into fine gloomy funereal shades, and once more to feel that wavering +sort of emotion which I always experience there;--one moment being +tempted to smile at the fantastic manner in which affection has been +manifested,--and the next, moved to tears by some touch of tenderness, +that makes itself felt even amidst the vast collection of childish +superstitions with which the place abounds. + +This mournful garden is altogether a very solemn and impressive +spectacle. What a world of mortality does one take in at one glance! +It will set one thinking a little, however fresh from the busy +idleness of Paris,--of Paris, that antidote to all serious thought, +that especial paradise for the worshippers of SANS SOUCI. + +A profusion of spring flowers are at this season hourly shedding their +blossoms over every little cherished enclosure. There is beauty, +freshness, fragrance on the surface.... It is a fearful contrast! + +I do not remember any spot, either in church or churchyard, where the +unequal dignity of the memorials raised above the dust which lies so +very equally beneath them all is shown in a manner to strike the heart +so forcibly as it does at Père Lachaise. Here, a shovelful of weeds +have hardly room to grow; and there rises a costly pile, shadowing its +lowly neighbour. On this side the narrow path, sorrow is wrapped round +and hid from notice by the very poverty that renders it more bitter; +while, on the other, wealth, rank, and pride heap decorations over the +worthless clay, striving vainly to conceal its nothingness. It is an +epitome of the world they have left: remove the marble and disturb the +turf, human nature will be found to wear the same aspect under both. + +Many groups in deep mourning were wandering among the tombs; so many +indeed, that when we turned aside from one, with the reverence one +always feels disposed to pay to sorrow, we were sure to encounter +another. This manner of lamenting in public seems so strange to us! +How would it be for a shy English mother, who sobs inwardly and hides +the aching sorrow in her heart's core,--how would she bear to bargain +at the public gate for a pretty garland, then enter amidst an idle +throng, with the toy hanging on her finger, and, before the eyes of +all who choose to look, suspend it over the grave of her lost child? +An Englishwoman surely must lose her reason either before or after +such an act;--if it were not the effect of madness, it would be the +cause of it. Yet such is the effect of habit, or rather of the +different tone of manners and of mind here, that one may daily and +hourly see parents, most devoted to their children during their lives, +and most heart-broken when divided from them by death, perform with +streaming eyes these public lamentations. + +It is nevertheless impossible, let the manner of it differ from our +own as much as it may, to look at the freshly-trimmed flowers, the +garlands, and all the pretty tokens of tender care which meet the eye +in every part of this wide-spread mass of mortal nothingness, without +feeling that real love and real sorrow have been at work. + +One small enclosure attracted my attention as at once the most +_bizarre_ and the most touching of all. It held the little grassy tomb +of a young child, planted round with choice flowers; and at its head +rose a semicircular recess, containing, together with a crucifix and +other religious emblems, several common playthings, which had +doubtless been the latest joy of the lost darling. His age was stated +to have been three years, and he was mourned as the first and only +child after twelve years of marriage. + +Below this melancholy statement was inscribed-- + + "Passans! priez pour sa malheureuse mère!" + +Might we not say, that + + Thought and affliction, passion, death itself, + They turn to favour and to prettiness? + +It would, I believe, be more just, as well as more generous, instead +of accusing the whole nation of being the victims of affectation +instead of sorrow under every affliction that death can cause, to +believe that they feel quite as sincerely as ourselves; though they +have certainly a very different way of showing it. + +I wish they, whoever they are, who had the command of such matters, +would have let the curious tomb of Abelard and Eloïsa remain in decent +tranquillity in its original position. Nothing can assimilate worse +than do its Gothic form and decorations with every object around it. +The paltry plaster tablet too, that has been stuck upon it for the +purpose of recording the history of the tomb rather than of those who +lie buried in it, is in villanously bad taste; and we can only hope +that the elements will complete the work they have begun, and then +this barbarous defacing will crumble away before our grandchildren +shall know anything about it. + +The thickly-planted trees and shrubs have grown so rapidly, as in many +places to make it difficult to pass through them; and the ground +appears to be extremely crowded nearly over its whole extent. A few +neighbouring acres have been lately added to it; but their bleak, +naked, and unornamented surface forbids the eye as yet to recognise +this space as part of the enclosure. One pale solitary tomb is placed +within it, at the very verge of the dark cypress line that marks the +original boundary; and it looks like a sheeted ghost hovering about +between night and morning. + +One very noble monument has been added since I last visited the +garden: it is dedicated to the memory of a noble Russian lady, whose +long unspellable name I forget. It is of white or greyish marble, and +of magnificent proportions,--lofty and elegant, yet massive and +entirely simple. Altogether, it appeared to me to be as perfect in +taste as any specimen of monumental architecture that I have ever +seen, though it had not the last best grace of sculpture to adorn it. +There is no effigy--no statue--scarcely an ornament of any kind, but +it seems constructed with a view to unite equally the appearance of +imposing majesty and enduring strength. This splendid mausoleum +stands towards the top of the garden, and forms a predominating and +very beautiful object from various parts of it. + +Among the hundreds of names which one reads in passing,--I hardly know +why, for they certainly convey but small interest to the mind,--we met +with that of the _Baron Munchausen_. It was a small and +unpretending-looking stone, but bore a host of blazing titles, by +which it appears that this Baron, whom I, and all my generation, I +believe, have ever looked upon as an imaginary personage, was in fact +something or other very important to somebody or other who was very +powerful. Why his noble name has been made such use of among us, I +cannot imagine. + +In the course of our wanderings we came upon this singular +inscription:-- + +"Ci-gît Caroline,"--(I think the name is Caroline,)--"fille de +Mademoiselle Mars." + +Is it not wonderful what a difference twenty-one miles of salt-water +can make in the ways and manners of people? + +There are not many statues in the cemetery, and none of sufficient +merit to add much to its embellishment; but there is one recently +placed there, and standing loftily predominant above every surrounding +object, which is strongly indicative of the period of its erection, +and of the temper of the people to whom it seems to address itself. +This is a colossal figure of Manuel. The countenance is vulgar, and +the expression of the features violent and exaggerated: it might stand +as the portrait of a bold factious rebel for ever. + + + + +LETTER XXIII. + + Remarkable People.--Distinguished People.--Metaphysical Lady. + + +Last night we passed our _soirée_ at the house of a lady who had been +introduced to me with this recommendation:--"You will be certain of +meeting at Madame de V----'s many REMARKABLE PEOPLE." + +This is, I think, exactly the sort of introduction which would in any +city give the most piquant interest to a new acquaintance; but it does +so particularly at Paris; for this attractive capital draws its +collection of remarkable people from a greater variety of nations, +classes, and creeds, than any other. + +Nevertheless, this term "remarkable people" must not be taken too +confidently to mean individuals so distinguished that all men would +desire to gaze upon them; the phrase varying in its value and its +meaning according to the feelings, faculties, and station of the +speaker. + +Everybody has got his or her own "remarkable people" to introduce to +you; and I have begun to find out, among the houses that are open to +me, what species of "remarkable people" I am likely to meet at each. + +When Madame A---- whispers to me as I enter her drawing-room--"Ah! +vous voilà! c'est bon; j'aurais été bien fâchée si vous m'aviez +manquée; il y a ici, ce soir, une personne bien remarquable, qu'il +faut absolument vous présenter,"--I am quite sure that I shall see +some one who has been a marshal, or a duke, or a general, or a +physician, or an actor, or an artist, to Napoleon. + +But if it were Madame B---- who said the same thing, I should be +equally certain that it must be a comfortable-looking doctrinaire, who +was, had been, or was about to be in place, and who had made his voice +heard on the winning side. + +Madame C----, on the contrary, would not deign to bestow such an +epithet on any one whose views and occupations were so earthward. It +could only be some philosopher, pale with the labour of reconciling +paradoxes or discovering a new element. + +My charming, quiet, graceful, gentle Madame D---- could use it only +when speaking of an ex-chancellor, or chamberlain, or friend, or +faithful servant of the exiled dynasty. + +As for the tall dark-browed Madame E----, with her thin lips and +sinister smile, though she professes to hold a _salon_ where talent of +every party is welcome, she never cares much, I am very sure, for any +remarkableness that is not connected with the great and immortal +mischief of some revolution. She is not quite old enough to have had +anything to do with the first; but I have no doubt that she was very +busy during the last, and I am positive that she will never know peace +by night or day till another can be got up. If her hopes fail on this +point, she will die of atrophy; for nothing affords her nourishment +but what is mixed up with rebellion against constituted authority. + +I know that she dislikes me; and I suspect I owe the honour of being +admitted to appear in her presence solely to her determination that I +should hear everything that she thinks it would be disagreeable for me +to listen to. I believe she fancies that I do not like to meet +Americans; but she is as much mistaken in this as in most other of her +speculations. + +I really never saw or heard of any fanaticism equal to that, with +which this lady worships destruction. That whatever is, is wrong, is +the rule by which her judgment is guided in all things. It is enough +for her that a law on any point is established, to render the thing +legalised detestable; and were the republic about which she raves, and +of which she knows as much as her lap-dog, to be established +throughout France to-morrow, I am quite persuaded that we should have +her embroidering a regal robe for the most legitimate king she could +find, before next Monday. + +Madame F----'s _remarkables_ are almost all of them foreigners of the +philosophic revolutionary class; any gentry that are not particularly +well off at home, and who would rather prefer being remarkable and +remarked a few hundred miles from their own country than in it. + +Madame G----'s are chiefly musical personages. "Croyez-moi, madame," +she says, "il n'y a que lui pour toucher le piano.... Vous n'avez pas +encore entendu Mademoiselle Z----.... Quelle voix superbe!... Elle +fera, j'en suis sûre, une fortune immense à Londres." + +Madame H----'s acquaintance are not so "remarkable" for anything +peculiar in each or any of them, as for being in all things exactly +opposed to each other. She likes to have her parties described as "Les +soirées antithestiques de Madame H----," and has a peculiar sort of +pleasure in seeing people sitting side by side on her hearth-rug, who +would be very likely to salute each other with a pistol-shot were they +to meet elsewhere. It is rather a singular device for arranging a +sociable party; but her _soirées_ are very delightful _soirées_, for +all that. + +Madame J----'s friends are not "remarkable;" they are "distinguished." +It is quite extraordinary what a number of distinguished individuals I +have met at her house. + +But I must not go through the whole alphabet, lest I should tire you. +So let me return to the point from whence I set out, and take you +with me to Madame de V----'s _soirée_. A large party is almost always +a sort of lottery, and your good or bad fortune depends on the +accidental vicinity of pleasant or unpleasant neighbours. + +I cannot consider myself to have gained a prize last night; and +Fortune, if she means to make things even, must place me to-night next +the most agreeable person in Paris. I really think that should the +same evil chance that beset me yesterday pursue me for a week, I +should leave the country to escape from it. I will describe to you the +manner of my torment as well as I can, but must fail, I think, to give +you an adequate idea of it. + +A lady I had never seen before walked across the room to me last night +soon after I entered it, and making prisoner of Madame de V---- in the +way, was presented to me in due form. I was placed on a sofa by an old +gentleman with whom we have formed a great friendship, and for whose +conversation I have a particular liking: he had just seated himself +beside me, when my new acquaintance dislodged him by saying, as she +attempted to squeeze herself in between us, "Pardon, monsieur; ne vous +dérangez pas! ... mais si madame voulait bien me permettre" ... and +before she could finish her speech, my old acquaintance was far away +and my new one close beside me. + +She began the conversation by some very obliging assurances of her +wish to make my acquaintance. "I want to discuss with you," said she. +I bowed, but trembled inwardly, for I do not like discussions, +especially with "remarkable" ladies. "Yes," she continued, "I want to +discuss with you many topics of vital interest to us all--topics on +which I believe we now think differently, but on which I feel quite +sure that we should agree, would you but listen to me." + +I smiled and bowed, and muttered something civil, and looked as much +pleased as I possibly could,--and recollected, too, how large Paris +was, and how easy it would be to turn my back upon conviction, if I +found that I could not face it agreeably. But, to say truth, there was +something in the eye and manner of my new friend that rather alarmed +me. She is rather pretty, nevertheless; but her bright eyes are never +still for an instant, and she is one of those who aid the power of +speech by that of touch, to which she has incessant recourse. Had she +been a man, she would have seized all her friends by the button: but +as it is, she can only lay her fingers with emphasis upon your arm, or +grasp a handful of your sleeve, when she sees reason to fear that your +attention wanders. + +"You are a legitimatist! ... quel dommage! Ah! you smile. But did you +know the incalculable injury done to the intellect by putting chains +upon it!... My studies, observe, are confined almost wholly to one +subject,--the philosophy of the human mind. Metaphysics have been the +great object of my life from a very early age." (I should think she +was now about seven or eight-and-twenty.) "Yet sometimes I have the +weakness to turn aside from this noble pursuit to look upon the +troubled current of human affairs that is rolling past me. I do not +pretend to enter deeply into politics--I have no time for it; but I +see enough to make me shrink from despotism and legitimacy. Believe +me, it cramps the mind; and be assured that a constant succession of +political changes keeps the faculties of a nation on the _qui vive_, +and, abstractedly considered as a mental operation, must be +incalculably more beneficial than the half-dormant state which takes +place after any long continuance in one position, let it be what it +may." + +She uttered all this with such wonderful rapidity, that it would have +been quite impossible for me to have made any observation upon it as +she went along, if I had been ever so much inclined to do so. But I +soon found that this was not expected of me. + + "'Twas hers to speak, and mine to hear;" + +and I made up my mind to listen as patiently as I could till I should +find a convenient opportunity for changing my place. + +At different times, and in different climes, I have heretofore +listened to a good deal of nonsense, certainly; but I assure you I +never did nor ever can expect again to hear such a profusion of wild +absurdity as this lady uttered. Yet I am told that she has in many +circles the reputation of being a woman of genius. It would be but a +vain attempt did I endeavour to go on remembering and translating all +she said; but some of her speeches really deserve recording. + +After she had run her tilt against authority, she broke off, +exclaiming-- + +"Mais, après tout,--what does it signify?... When you have once +devoted yourself to the study of the soul, all these little +distinctions do appear so trifling!... I have given myself wholly to +the study of the soul; and my life passes in a series of experiments, +which, if I do not wear myself out here," putting her hand to her +forehead, "will, I think, eventually lead me to something important." + +As she paused for a moment, I thought I ought to say something, and +therefore asked her of what nature were the experiments of which she +spoke. To which she replied-- + +"Principally in comparative anatomy. None but an experimentalist could +ever imagine what extraordinary results arise from this best and +surest mode of investigation. A mouse, for instance.... Ah, madame! +would you believe it possible that the formation of a mouse could +throw light upon the theory of the noblest feeling that warms the +heart of man--even upon valour? It is true, I assure you: such are the +triumphs of science. By watching the pulsations of that _chétif_ +animal," she continued, eagerly laying hold of my wrist, "we have +obtained an immense insight into the most interesting phenomena of the +passion of fear." + +At this moment my old gentleman came back to me, but evidently without +any expectation of being able to resume his seat. It was only, I +believe, to see how I got on with my metaphysical neighbour. There was +an infinite deal of humour in the glance he gave me as he said, "Eh +bien, Madame Trollope, est-ce que Madame ---- vous a donné l'ambition +de la suivre dans ses sublimes études?" + +"I fear it would prove beyond my strength," I replied. Upon which +Madame ---- started off anew in praise of _her_ science--"the only +science worthy the name; the science...." + +Here my old friend stole off again, covered by an approaching tray of +ices; and I soon after did the same; for I had been busily engaged all +day, and I was weary,--so weary that I dreaded dropping to sleep at +the very instant that Madame ---- was exerting herself to awaken me to +a higher state of intelligence. + +I have not, however, told you one tenth part of the marvellous +absurdities she poured forth; yet I suspect I have told you enough. I +have never before met anything so pre-eminently ridiculous as this: +but upon my saying so to my old friend as I passed him near the door, +he assured me that he knew another lady, whose mania was education, +and whose doctrines and manner of explaining them were decidedly more +absurd than Madame ----'s philosophy of the soul. + +"Be not alarmed, however; I shall not bestow her upon you, for I +intend most carefully to keep out of her way. Do you know of any +English ladies thus devoted to the study of the soul?"... I am +sincerely happy to say that I do not. + + + + +LETTER XXIV. + + Expedition to the Luxembourg.--No admittance for + Females.--Portraits of "Henri."--Republican Costume.--Quai + Voltaire.--Mural Inscriptions.--Anecdote of Marshal + Lobau.--Arrest. + + +Ever since the trials at the Luxembourg commenced, we have intended to +make an excursion thither, in order to look at the encampment in the +garden, at the military array around the palace, and, in short, to see +all that is visible for female eyes in the general aspect of the +place, so interesting at the present moment from the important +business going on there. + +I have done all that could be done to obtain admission to the Chamber +during their sittings, and have not been without friends who very +kindly interested themselves to render my efforts successful--but in +vain; no ladies have been permitted to enter. Whether the feminine +regrets have been lessened or increased by the daily accounts that are +published of the outrageous conduct of the prisoners, I will not +venture to say. _C'est égal_; get in we cannot, whether we wish it or +not. It is said, indeed, that in one of the tribunes set apart for +the public, a small white hand has been seen to caress some jet-black +curls upon the head of a boy; and it was said, too, that the boy +called himself George S----d: but I have heard of no other instance of +any one not furnished with that important symbol of prerogative, _une +barbe au menton_, who has ventured within the proscribed limits. + +Our humble-minded project of looking at the walls which enclose the +blustering rebels and their patient judges has been at length happily +accomplished, and not without affording us considerable amusement. + +In addition to our usual party, we had the pleasure of being +accompanied by two agreeable Frenchmen, who promised to explain +whatever signs and symbols might meet our eyes but mock our +comprehension. As the morning was delightful, we agreed to walk to the +place of our destination, and repose ourselves as much as the tossings +of a _fiacre_ would permit on the way home. + +That our route lay through the Tuileries Gardens was one reason for +this arrangement; and, as usual, we indulged ourselves for a +delightful half-hour by sitting under the trees. + +Whenever six or eight persons wish to converse together--not in +_tête-à-tête_, but in a general confabulation, I would recommend +exactly the place we occupied for the purpose, with the chairs of the +party drawn together, not spread into a circle, but collected in a +group, so that every one can hear, and every one can be heard. + +Our conversation was upon the subject of various prints which we had +seen exposed upon the Boulevards as we passed; and though our two +Frenchmen were excellent friends, it was very evident that they did +not hold the same opinions in politics;--so we had some very pleasant +sparring. + +We have been constantly in the habit of remarking a variety of +portraits of a pretty, elegant-looking youth, sometimes totally +without letters--and yet they were not proofs, excepting of an antique +loyalty,--sometimes with the single word "Henri!"--sometimes with a +sprig of the pretty weed we call "Forget-me-not,"--and sometimes with +the name of "Le Duc de Bordeaux." As we passed one of the cases this +morning which stand out before a large shop on the Boulevards, I +remarked a new one: it was a pretty lithographic print, and being very +like an original miniature which had been kindly shown me during a +visit I paid in the Faubourg St. Germain, I stopped to buy it, and +writing my name on the envelope, ordered it to be sent home. + +M. P----, the gentleman who was walking beside me when I stopped, +confirmed my opinion that it was a likeness, by his personal knowledge +of the original; and it was not difficult to perceive, though he spoke +but little on the subject, that an affectionate feeling for "THE +CAUSE" and its young hero was at his heart. + +M. de L----, the other gentleman who had joined our party, was walking +behind us, and came up as I was making my purchase. He smiled. "I see +what you are about," said he: "if you and P---- continue to walk +together, I am sure you will plot some terrible treason before you get +to the Luxembourg." + +When we were seated in the Tuileries Gardens, M. de L---- renewed his +attack upon me for what he called my seditious conduct in having +encouraged the vender of a prohibited article, and declared that he +thought he should but do his duty if he left M. P---- and myself in +safe custody among the other rebellious characters at the Luxembourg. + +"My sedition," replied M. P----, "is but speculative. The best among +us now can only sigh that things are not quite as they should be, and +be thankful that they are not quite as bad as they might be." + +"I rejoice to find that you allow so much, mon cher," replied his +friend. "Yes, I think it might be worse; par exemple, if such gentry +as those yonder were to have their way with us." + +He looked towards three youths who were stalking up the walk before us +with the air of being deeply intent on some business of dire import. +They looked like walking caricatures--and in truth they were nothing +else. + +They were republicans. Similar figures are constantly seen strutting +upon the Boulevards, or sauntering, like those before us, in the +Tuileries, or hovering in sinister groups about the Bois de Boulogne, +each one believing himself to bear the brow of a Brutus and the heart +of a Cato. But see them where or when you will, they take good care to +be unmistakable; there is not a child of ten years old in Paris who +cannot tell a republican when he sees him. In several print-shops I +have seen a key to their mystical toilet which may enable the ignorant +to read them right. A hat, whose crown if raised for a few inches more +would be conical, is highest in importance, as in place; and the shade +of Cromwell may perhaps glory in seeing how many desperate wrongheads +still mimic his beaver. Then come the long and matted locks, that hang +in heavy ominous dirtiness beneath it. The throat is bare, at least +from linen; but a plentiful and very disgusting profusion of hair +supplies its place. The waistcoat, like the hat, bears an immortal +name--"GILET À LA ROBESPIERRE" being its awful designation; and the +extent of its wide-spreading lapels is held to be a criterion of the +expansive principles of the wearer. _Au reste_, a general air of grim +and savage blackguardism is all that is necessary to make up the +outward man of a republican of Paris in 1835. + +But, oh! the grimaces by which I have seen human face distorted by +persons wearing this masquerading attire! Some roll their eyes and +knit their brows as if they would bully the whole universe; others fix +their dark glances on the ground in fearful meditation; while other +some there be who, while gloomily leaning against a statue or a tree, +throw such terrific meaning into their looks as might naturally be +interpreted into the language of the witches in Macbeth-- + + "We must, we will--we must, we will + Have much more blood,--and become worse, + And become worse" ... &c. &c. + +The three young men who had just passed us were exactly of this stamp. +Our legitimate friend looked after them and laughed heartily. + +"C'est à nous autres, mon cher," said de L----, "to enjoy that sight. +You and yours would have but small reason to laugh at such as these, +if it were not the business of us and ours to take care that they +should do you no harm. You may thank the eighty thousand National +Guards of Paris for the pleasure of quizzing with such a complacent +feeling of security these very ferocious-looking persons." + +"For that I thank them heartily," replied M. P----; "only I think the +business would have been quite as well done if those who performed it +had the right to do so." + +"Bah! Have you not tried, and found you could make nothing of it?" + +"I think not, my friend," replied the legitimatist: "we were doing +very well, and exerting ourselves to keep the unruly spirits in order, +when you stepped in, and promised all the naughty boys in Paris a +holiday if they would but make you master. They did make you +master--they have had their holiday, and now...." + +"And now ..." said I, "what will come next?" + +Both the gentlemen answered me at once. + +"Riots," said the legitimatist. + +"Good order," said the doctrinaire. + +We proceeded in our walk, and having crossed the Pont Royal, kept +along the Quai Voltaire, to avoid the Rue du Bac; as we all agreed +that, notwithstanding Madame de Staël spoke so lovingly of it at a +distance, it was far from agreeable when near. + +Were it not for a sort of English horror of standing before +shop-windows, the walking along that Quai Voltaire might occupy an +entire morning. From the first wide-spread display of "remarkable +people" for five sous apiece--and there are heads among them which +even in their rude lithography would repay some study--from this +five-sous gallery of fame to the entrance of the Rue de Seine, it is +an almost uninterrupted show;--books, old and new--rich, rare, and +worthless; engravings that may be classed likewise,--_articles +d'occasion_ of all sorts,--but, far above all the rest, the most +glorious museums of old carving and gilding, of monstrous chairs, +stupendous candlesticks, grotesque timepieces, and ornaments without a +name, that can be found in the world. It is here that the wealthy +fancier of the massive splendour of Louis Quinze comes with a full +purse, and it is hence that beyond all hope he departs with a light +one. The present royal family of France, it is said, profess a taste +for this princely but ponderous style of decoration; and royal +carriages are often seen to stop at the door of _magasins_ so +heterogeneous in their contents as to admit all titles excepting only +that of "_magasin de nouveautés_," but having at the first glance very +greatly the air of a pawnbroker's shop. + +During this lounge along the Quai Voltaire, I saw for the first time +some marvellously uncomely portraits, with the names of each inscribed +below, and a running title for all, classing them _en masse_ as "_Les +Prévenus d'Avril_." If these be faithful portraits, the originals are +to be greatly pitied; for they seem by nature predestined to the evil +work they have been about. Every one of them looks + + "Worthy to be a rebel, for to that + The multiplying villanies of nature + Do swarm upon him." + +It should seem that the materials for rebellion were in Shakspeare's +days much of the same kind as they are in ours. If these be portraits, +the originals need have no fear of the caricaturist before their +eyes--their "villanies of nature" could hardly be exaggerated; and I +should think that H. B. himself would try his pencil upon them in +vain. + +On the subject which the examination of these _prévenus d'Avril_ +naturally led to, our two French friends seemed to be almost entirely +of the same opinion; the legitimatist confessing that "any king was +better than none," and the doctrinaire declaring that he would rather +the country should have gone without the last revolution, glorious and +immortal as it was, than that it should be exposed to another, +especially such a one as MM. les Prévenus were about to prepare for +them. + +Being arrived at _le quartier Latin_, we amused ourselves by +speculating upon the propensity manifested by very young men, who were +still subjected to restraint, for the overthrow and destruction of +everything that denotes authority or threatens discipline. Thus the +walls in this neighbourhood abounded with inscriptions to that effect; +"_A bas Philippe!_"--"_Les Pairs sont des assassins!_"--"_Vive la +République!_" and the like. Pears of every size and form, with +scratches signifying eyes, nose, and mouth, were to be seen in all +directions: which being interpreted, denotes the contempt of the +juvenile students for the reigning monarch. A more troublesome +evidence of this distaste for authority was displayed a few days ago +by four or five hundred of these disorderly young men, who assembling +themselves together, followed with hootings and shoutings M. Royer +Collard, a professor lately appointed by the government to the medical +school, from the college to his home in the Rue de Provence. + +Upon all such occasions, this government, or any other, would do well +to follow the hint given them by an admirable manoeuvre of General +Lobau's, the commander-in-chief of the National Guard. I believe the +anecdote is very generally known; but, in the hope that you may not +have heard it, I will indulge myself by telling you the story, which +amused me infinitely; and it is better that I should run the risk of +your hearing it twice, than of your not hearing it at all. + +A party of _les jeunes gens de Paris_, who were exerting themselves to +get up a little republican _émeute_, had assembled in considerable +numbers in the Place Vendôme. The drums beat--the commandant was +summoned and appeared. The young malcontents closed their ranks, +handled their pocket-knives and walking-sticks, and prepared to stand +firm. The general was seen to dismiss an aide-de-camp, and a few +anxious moments followed, when something looking fearfully like a +military engine appeared advancing from the Rue de la Paix. Was it +cannon?... A crowd of high-capped engineers surrounded it, as with +military order and address it wheeled about and approached the spot +where the rioters had formed their thickest phalanx. The word of +command was given, and in an instant the whole host were drenched to +their skins with water. + +Many who saw this memorable rout, in which the laughing _pompiers_ +followed with their leather pipes the scampering heroes, declare that +no military manoeuvre ever produced so rapid an evacuation of +troops. There is something in the tone and temper of this proceeding +of the National Guard which appears to me strikingly indicative of the +easy, quiet, contemptuous spirit in which these powerful guardians of +the existing government contemplate its republican enemies. + +Having reached the Luxembourg and obtained admission to the gardens, +we again rested ourselves, that we might look about at our ease upon a +scene that was not only quite novel, but certainly very singular to +those who were accustomed to the ordinary aspect of the place. + +In the midst of lilacs and roses an encampment of small white tents +showed their warlike fronts. Arms, drums, and all sorts of military +accoutrements were visible among them; while loitering troops, some +smoking, some reading, some sleeping, completed the unwonted +appearance of the scene. + +It would have been impossible, I believe, in all France to have fixed +ourselves on a spot where our two French friends would have found so +many incitements to unity of opinion and feeling as this. Our +conversation, therefore, was not only very amicable, but ran some risk +of being dull from the mere want of contradiction; for to a hearty +conscientious condemnation of the proceedings which led to this trial +of the _prévenus d'Avril_ there was an unanimous sentence passed _nem. +con._ throughout the whole party. + +M. de L---- gave us some anecdotes of one or two of the persons best +known among the prisoners; but upon being questioned respecting the +others, he burst out indignantly in the words of Corneille-- + + ----"Le reste ne vaut pas l'honneur d'être nommé: + Un tas d'hommes perdus de dettes et de crimes, + Que pressent de nos loix les ordres légitimes, + Et qui désespérant de les plus éviter, + Si tout n'est renversé, ne sauraient subsister." + +"Ben trovato!" exclaimed P----; "you could not have described them +better--but...." + +This "but" would very probably have led to observations that might +have put our _belle harmonie_ out of tune, or at least have produced +the renewal of our peaceable sparring, had not a little bustle among +the trees at a short distance behind us cut short our session. + +It seems that ever since the trials began, the chief duty of the +gendarmes--(I beg pardon, I should say, of _la Garde de Paris_)--has +been to prevent any assembling together of the people in knots for +conversation and gossipings in the courts and gardens of the +Luxembourg. No sooner are two or three persons observed standing +together, than a policeman approaches, and with a tone of command +pronounces, "Circulez, messieurs!--circulez, s'il vous plaît." The +reason for this precaution is, that nightly at the Porte St. Martin a +few score of _jeunes gens_ assemble to make a very idle and unmeaning +noise, the echo of which regularly runs from street to street till the +reiterated report amounts to the announcement of an _émeute_. We are +all now so used to these harmless little _émeutes_ at the Porte St. +Martin, that we mind them no more than General Lobau himself: +nevertheless, it is deemed proper, trumpery as the cause may be, to +prevent anything like a gathering together of the mob in the vicinity +of the Luxembourg, lest the same hundred-tongued lady who constantly +magnifies the hootings of a few idle mechanics into an _émeute_ should +spread a report throughout France that the Luxembourg was besieged by +the people. The noise which had disturbed us was occasioned by the +gathering together of about a dozen persons; but a policeman was in +the midst of the group, and we heard rumours of an _arrestation_. In +less than five minutes, however, everything was quiet again: but we +marked two figures so picturesque in their republicanism, that we +resumed our seats while a sketch was made from them, and amused +ourselves the while in fancying what the ominous words could be that +were so cautiously exchanged between them. M. de L---- said that there +could be no doubt that they ran thus: + +"Ce soir, à la Porte St. Martin!" + +_Answer._--"J'y serai." + + [Illustration: Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu. + "CE SOIR À LA PORTE ST. MARTIN!" + "J'Y SERAI." + London, Published by Richard Bentley, 1836.] + + + + +LETTER XXV. + + Chapelle Expiatoire.--Devotees seen there.--Tri-coloured flag + out of place there.--Flower Market of the Madeleine.--Petites + Maîtresses. + + +Of all the edifices finished in Paris since my last visit, there is +not one which altogether pleases me better than the little "Chapelle +Expiatoire" erected in memory of Louis the Sixteenth, and his +beautiful but ill-starred queen. + +This monument was planned and in part executed by Louis the +Eighteenth, and finished by Charles the Tenth. It stands upon the spot +where many butchered victims of the tyrant mob were thrown in 1793. +The story of the royal bodies having been destroyed by quicklime is +said to have been fabricated and circulated for the purpose of +preventing any search after them, which might, it was thought, have +produced a dangerous reaction of feeling among the whim-governed +populace. + +These bodies, and several others, which were placed in coffins, and +inscribed with the names of the murdered occupants, lay buried +together for many years after the revolution in a large _chantier_, +or wood-yard, at no great distance from the place of execution. + +That this spot had been excavated for the purpose of receiving these +sad relics, is a fact well known, and it was never lost sight of from +the terrible period at which the ground was so employed; but the +unseemly vault continued undisturbed till after the restoration, when +the bodies of the royal victims were sought and found. Their bones +were then conveyed to the long-hallowed shrine of St. Denis; but the +spot where the mangled remains were first thrown was consecrated, and +is now become the site of this beautiful little Chapelle Expiatoire. + +The enclosure in which this building stands is of considerable extent, +reaching from the Rue de l'Arcade to the Rue d'Anjou. This space is +lined with closely-planted rows of cypress-trees on every side, which +are protected by a massive railing, neatly painted. The building +itself and all its accompaniments are in excellent taste; simple, +graceful, and solemn. + +The interior is a small Greek cross, each extremity of which is +finished by a semicircle surmounted by a semi-dome. The space beneath +the central dome is occupied by chairs and benches covered with +crimson velvet, for the use of the faithful--in every sense--who come +to attend the mass which is daily performed there. + +As long as the daughter of the murdered monarch continued to reside in +Paris, no morning ever passed without her coming to offer up her +prayers at this expiatory shrine. + +One of the four curved extremities is occupied by the altar; that +opposite to it, by the entrance; and those on either side, by two +well-composed and impressive groups in white marble--that to the right +of the altar representing Marie Antoinette bending beside a cross +supported by an angel,--and that to the left, the felon-murdered +monarch whose wretched and most unmerited destiny she shared. On the +pedestal of the king's statue is inscribed his will; on that of the +queen, her farewell letter to the Princess Elizabeth. + +Nothing can exceed the chaste delicacy of the few ornaments admitted +into the chapel. They consist only, I think, of golden candlesticks, +placed in niches in the white marble walls. The effect of the whole is +beautiful and impressive. + +I often go there; yet I can hardly understand what the charm can be in +the little building itself, or in the quiet mass performed there +without music, which can so attract me. It is at no great distance +from our apartments in the Rue de Provence, and a walk thither just +occupies the time before breakfast. I once went there on a Sunday +morning with some of my family; but then it was full--indeed so +crowded, that it was impossible to see across the building, or feel +the beauty of its elegant simplicity. The pale figures of the royal +dead, the foully murdered, were no longer the principal objects; and +though I have no doubt that all present were right loyal spirits, with +whose feelings I am well enough disposed to sympathise, yet I could +not read each saddened brow, and attach a romance to it, as I never +fail to do during my week-day visits. + +There are two ladies, for example, whom I constantly see there, ever +in the same place, and ever in the same attitude. The elder of these I +feel perfectly sure must have passed her youth near Marie Antoinette, +for it is at the foot of her statue that she kneels--or I might almost +say that she prostrates herself, for she throws her arms forward on a +cushion that is placed before her, and suffers her aged head to fall +upon them, in a manner that speaks more sorrow than I can describe. +The young girl who always accompanies and kneels beside her may, I +think, be her granddaughter. They have each of them "_Gentlewoman +born_" written on every feature, in characters not to be mistaken. The +old lady is very pale, and the young one looks as if she were not +passing a youth of gaiety and enjoyment. + +There is a grey-headed old man, too, who is equally constant in his +attendance at this melancholy chapel. He might sit as a model for a +portrait of _le bon vieux temps_; but he has a stern though sad +expression of countenance, which seems to be exactly a masculine +modification of what is passing at the heart and in the memory of the +old lady at the opposite side of the chapel. These are figures which +send the thoughts back for fifty years; and seen in the act of +assisting at a mass for the souls of Louis Seize and his queen, +produce a powerful effect on the imagination. + +I have ventured to describe this melancholy spot, and what I have seen +there, the more particularly because, easy as it is of access, you +might go to Paris a dozen times without seeing it, as in fact hundreds +of English travellers do. One reason for this is, that it is not +opened to the public gaze as a show, but can only be entered during +the hour of prayer, which is inconveniently early in the day. + +As this sad and sacred edifice cannot justly be considered as a public +building, the elevation of the tri-coloured flag upon it every +fête-day might, I think, have been spared. + +Another, and a very different novelty, is the new flower-market, that +is now kept under the walls and columns of the majestic church of La +Madeleine. This beautiful collection of flowers appears to me to +produce from its situation a very singular effect: the relative +attributes of art and nature are reversed;--for here, art seems +sublime, vast, and enduring; while nature is small, fragile, and +perishing. + +It has sometimes happened to me, after looking at a work of art which +raised my admiration to enthusiasm, that I have next sought some +marvellous combination of mountain and valley, rock and river, forest +and cataract, and felt as I gazed on them something like shame at +remembering how nearly I had suffered the work of man to produce an +equal ecstasy. But here, when I raised my eyes from the little flimsy +crowd of many-coloured blossoms to the simple, solemn pomp of that +long arcade, with its spotless purity of tint and its enduring majesty +of graceful strength, I felt half inclined to scorn myself and those +around me for being so very much occupied by the roses, pinks, and +mignonette spread out before it. + +Laying aside, however, all philosophical reflections on its locality, +this new flower-market is a delightful acquisition to the Parisian +_petite maîtresse_. It was a long expedition to visit the _marché aux +fleurs_ on the distant quay near Notre Dame; and though its beauty and +its fragrance might well repay an hour or two stolen from the pillow, +the sweet decorations it offered to the boudoir must have been oftener +selected by the _maître d'hôtel_ or the _femme de chambre_ than by the +fair lady herself. But now, three times in the week we may have the +pleasure of seeing numbers of graceful females in that piquant species +of dishabille, which, uniting an equal portion of careful coquetry +and saucy indifference, gives to the morning attire of a pretty, +elegant, Frenchwoman, an air so indescribably attractive. + +Followed by a neat _soubrette_, such figures may now be often seen in +the flower-market of the Madeleine before the brightness of the +morning has faded either from their eyes, or the blossoms they so love +to gaze upon. The most ordinary linen gown, made in the form of a +wrapper--the hair _en papillote_--the plain straw-bonnet drawn forward +over the eyes, and the vast shawl enveloping the whole figure, might +suffice to make many an _élégante_ pace up and down the fragrant alley +incognita, did not the observant eye remark that a veil of rich lace +secured the simple bonnet under the chin--that the shawl was of +cashmere--and that the little hand, when ungloved to enjoy the touch +of a myrtle or an orange blossom, was as white as either. + + + + +LETTER XXVI. + + Delicacy in France and in England.--Causes of the difference + between them. + + +There is nothing perhaps which marks the national variety of manners +between the French and the English more distinctly than the different +estimate they form of what is delicate or indelicate, modest or +immodest, decent or indecent: nor does it appear to me that all the +intimacy of intercourse which for the last twenty years has subsisted +between the two nations has greatly lessened this difference. + +Nevertheless, I believe that it is more superficial than many suppose +it to be; and that it arises rather from contingent circumstances, +than from any original and native difference in the capability of +refinement in the two nations. + +Among the most obvious of these varieties of manner, is the astounding +freedom with which many things are alluded to here in good society, +the slightest reference to which is in our country banished from even +the most homely class. It seems that the opinion of Martine is by no +means peculiar to herself, and that it is pretty generally thought +that + + "Quand on se fait entendre, on parle toujours bien." + +In other ways, too, it is impossible not to allow that there exists in +France a very perceptible want of refinement as compared to England. +No Englishman, I believe, has ever returned from a visit to Paris +without adding his testimony to this fact; and notwithstanding the +Gallomania so prevalent amongst us, all acknowledge that, however +striking may be the elegance and grace of the higher classes, there is +still a national want of that uniform delicacy so highly valued by all +ranks, above the very lowest, with us. Sights are seen and +inconveniences endured with philosophy, which would go nigh to rob us +of our wits in July, and lead us to hang ourselves in November. + +To a fact so well known, and so little agreeable in the detail of its +examination, it would be worse than useless to draw your attention, +were it not that there is something curious in tracing the manner in +which different circumstances, seemingly unconnected, do in reality +hang together and form a whole. + +The time certainly has been, when it was the fashion in England, as it +is now in France, to call things, as some one coarsely expresses it, +_by their right names_; very grave proof of which might be found even +in sermons--and from thence downwards through treatises, essays, +poems, romances, and plays. + +Were we indeed to form our ideas of the tone of conversation in +England a century ago from the familiar colloquy found in the comedies +then written and acted, we must acknowledge that we were at that time +at a greater distance from the refinement we now boast, than our +French neighbours are at present. + +I do not here refer to licentiousness of morals, or the coarse avowal +of it; but to a species of indelicacy which might perhaps have been +quite compatible with virtue, as the absence of it is unhappily no +security against vice. + +The remedy of this has proceeded, if I mistake not, from causes much +more connected with the luxurious wealth of England, than with the +severity of her virtue. You will say, perhaps, that I have started off +to an immense distance from the point whence I set out; but I think +not--for both in France and England I find abundant reason to believe +that I am right in tracing this remarkable difference between the two +countries, less to natural disposition or character, than to the +accidental facilities for improvement possessed by the one people, and +not by the other. + +It would be very easy to ascertain, by reference to the various +literary records I have named, that the improvement in English +delicacy has been gradual, and in very just proportion to the +increase of her wealth, and the fastidious keeping out of sight of +everything that can in any way annoy the senses. + +When we cease to hear, see, and smell things which are disagreeable, +it is natural that we should cease to speak of them; and it is, I +believe, quite certain that the English take more pains than any other +people in the world that the senses--those conductors of sensation +from the body to the soul--shall convey to the spirit as little +disagreeable intelligence of what befalls the case in which it dwells, +as possible. The whole continent of Europe, with the exception of some +portion of Holland perhaps, (which shows a brotherly affinity to us in +many things,) might be cited for its inferiority to England in this +respect. I remember being much amused last year, when landing at +Calais, at the answer made by an old traveller to a novice who was +making his first voyage. + +"What a dreadful smell!" said the uninitiated stranger, enveloping his +nose in his pocket-handkerchief. + +"It is the smell of the continent, sir," replied the man of +experience. And so it was. + +There are parts of this subject which it is quite impossible to dwell +upon, and which unhappily require no pen to point them out to notice. +These, if it were possible, I would willingly leave more in the dark +than I find them. But there are other circumstances, all arising from +the comparative poverty of the people, which tend to produce, with a +most obvious dependency of thing on thing, that deficiency of +refinement of which I am speaking. + +Let any one examine the interior construction of a Paris dwelling of +the middle class, and compare it to a house prepared for occupants of +the same rank in London. It so happens that everything appertaining to +decoration is to be had _à bon marché_ at Paris, and we therefore find +every article of the ornamental kind almost in profusion. Mirrors, +silk hangings, or-molu in all forms; china vases, alabaster lamps, and +timepieces, in which the onward step that never returns is marked with +a grace and prettiness that conceals the solemnity of its pace,--all +these are in abundance; and the tenth part of what would be considered +necessary to dress up a common lodging in Paris, would set the London +fine lady in this respect upon an enviable elevation above her +neighbours. + +But having admired their number and elegant arrangement, pass on and +enter the ordinary bed-rooms--nay, enter the kitchens too, or you will +not be able to judge how great the difference is between the two +residences. + +In London, up to the second floor, and often to the third, water is +forced, which furnishes an almost unlimited supply of that luxurious +article, to be obtained with no greater trouble to the servants than +would be required to draw it from a tea-urn. In one kitchen of every +house, generally in two, and often in three, the same accommodation is +found; and when, in opposition to this, it is remembered that very +nearly every family in Paris receives this precious gift of nature +doled out by two buckets at a time, laboriously brought to them by +porters, clambering in _sabots_, often up the same stairs which lead +to their drawing-rooms, it can hardly be supposed that the use of it +is as liberal and unrestrained as with us. + +Against this may be placed fairly enough the cheapness and facility of +the access to the public baths. But though personal ablutions may thus +be very satisfactorily performed by those who do not rigorously +require that every personal comfort should be found at home, yet still +the want of water, or any restraint upon the freedom with which it is +used, is a vital impediment to that perfection of neatness, in every +part of the establishment, which we consider as so necessary to our +comfort. + +Much as I admire the Church of the Madeleine, I conceive that the city +of Paris would have been infinitely more benefited, had the sums +expended upon it been used for the purpose of constructing pipes for +the conveyance of water to private dwellings, than by all the +splendour received from the beauty of this imposing structure. + +But great and manifold as are the evils entailed by the scarcity of +water in the bed-rooms and kitchens of Paris, there is another +deficiency greater still, and infinitely worse in its effects. The +want of drains and sewers is the great defect of all the cities in +France; and a tremendous defect it is. That people who from their +first breath of life have been obliged to accustom their senses and +submit without a struggle to the sufferings this evil entails upon +them,--that people so circumstanced should have less refinement in +their thoughts and words than ourselves, I hold to be natural and +inevitable. Thus, you see, I have come round like a preacher to his +text, and have explained, as I think, very satisfactorily, what I mean +by saying that the indelicacy which so often offends us in France does +not arise from any natural coarseness of mind, but is the unavoidable +result of circumstances, which may, and doubtless will change, as the +wealth of the country and its familiarity with the manners of England +increases. + +This withdrawing from the perception of the senses everything that can +annoy them,--this lulling of the spirit by the absence of whatever +might awaken it to a sensation of pain,--is probably the last point to +which the ingenuity of man can reach in its efforts to embellish +existence. + +The search after pleasure and amusement certainly betokens less +refinement than this sedulous care to avoid annoyance; and it may be, +that as we have gone farthest of all modern nations in this tender +care of ourselves, so may we be the first to fall from our delicate +elevation into that receptacle of things past and gone which has +engulfed old Greece and Rome. Is it thus that the Reform Bill, and all +the other horrible Bills in its train, are to be interpreted? + +As to that other species of refinement which belongs altogether to the +intellect, and which, if less obvious to a passing glance, is more +deep and permanent in its dye than anything which relates to manners +only, it is less easy either to think or to speak with confidence. +France and England both have so long a list of mighty names that may +be quoted on either side to prove their claim to rank high as literary +contributors to refinement, that the struggle as to which ranks +highest can only be fairly settled by both parties agreeing that each +country has a fair right to prefer what they have produced themselves. +But, alas! at the present moment, neither can have great cause to +boast. What is good, is overpowered and stifled by what is bad. The +uncontrolled press of both countries has thrown so much abominable +trash upon literature during the last few years, that at present it +might be difficult to say whether general reading would be most +dangerous to the young and the pure in England or in France. + +That the Hugo school has brought more nonsense with its mischief, is, +I think, clear: but it is not impossible that this may act as an +antidote to its own poison. It is a sort of humbug assumption of +talent which will pass out of fashion as quickly as Morrison's pills. +We have nothing quite so silly as this; but much I fear that, as it +concerns our welfare as a nation, we have what is more deeply +dangerous. + +As to what is moral and what is not so, plain as at first sight the +question seems to be, there is much that is puzzling in it. In looking +over a volume of "Adèle et Théodore" the other day,--a work written +expressly "_sur l'éducation_," and by an author that we must presume +meant honestly and spoke sincerely,--I found this passage:-- + +"Je ne connais que trois romans véritablement moraux;--Clarisse, le +plus beau de tous; Grandison, et Pamela. Ma fille les lira en Anglais +lorsqu'elle aura dix-huit ans." + +The venerable Grandison, though by no means _sans tache_, I will let +pass: but that any mother should talk of letting her daughter of +"dix-huit ans" read the others, is a mystery difficult to comprehend, +especially in a country where the young girls are reared, fostered, +and sheltered from every species of harm, with the most incessant and +sedulous watchfulness. I presume that Madame de Genlis conceived that, +as the object and moral purpose of these works were good, the +revolting coarseness with which some of their most powerful passages +are written could not lead to evil. But this is a bold and dangerous +judgment to pass when the question relates to the studies of a young +girl. + +I think we may see symptoms of the feeling which would produce such a +judgment, in the tone of biting satire with which Molière attacks +those who wished to banish what might "faire insulte à la pudeur des +femmes." Spoken as he makes Philaminte speak it, we cannot fail to +laugh at the notion: yet ridicule on the same subject would hardly be +accepted, even from Sheridan, as jesting matter with us. + + "Mais le plus beau projet de notre académie, + Une entreprise noble, et dont je suis ravie, + Un dessein plein de gloire, et qui sera vanté + Chez tous les beaux-esprits de la postérité, + C'est le retranchement de ces syllabes sales + Qui dans les plus beaux mots produisent des scandales; + Ces jouets éternels des sots de tous les temps, + Ces fades lieux communs de nos méchans plaisans; + Ces sources d'un amas d'équivoques infâmes + Dont on vient faire insulte à la pudeur des femmes." + +Such an academy might be a very comical institution, certainly; but +the duties it would have to perform would not suffer a professor's +place to become a sinecure in France. + + + + +LETTER XXVII. + + Objections to quoting the names of private + individuals.--Impossibility of avoiding Politics.--_Parceque_ + and _Quoique_.--Soirée Antithestique. + + +It would be a pleasure to me to give you the names of many persons +with whom I have become acquainted in Paris, and I should like to +describe exactly the _salons_ in which I met them; but a whole host of +proprieties forbid this. Where individuals are so well known to fame +as to render the echoing of their names a matter of ordinary +recurrence, I can of course feel no scruple in repeating the echo--one +reverberation more can do no harm: but I will never be the first to +name any one, either for praise or for blame, beyond the sanctuary of +their own circle. + +I must therefore restrict myself to the giving you the best general +idea I can of the tone and style of what I have seen and heard; and if +I avail myself of the conversations I have listened to, it shall be in +such a manner as to avoid the slightest approach to personal allusion. + +This necessary restraint, however, is not submitted to without +regret: it must rob much of what I would wish to repeat of the value +of authority; and when I consider how greatly at variance my +impressions are on many points to some which have been publicly +proclaimed by others, I feel that I deserve some praise for +suppressing names which would stamp my statements with a value that +neither my unsupported assertions, nor those of any other traveller, +can be supposed to bear. Those who best know what I lose by this will +give me credit for it; and I shall be sufficiently rewarded for my +forbearance if it afford them a proof that I am not unworthy the +flattering kindness I have received. + +We all declare ourselves sick of politics, and a woman's letters, at +least, ought if possible to be free from this wearily pervading +subject: but the describing a human being, and omitting to mention the +heart and the brain, would not leave the analysis more defective, than +painting the Parisians at this moment without permitting their +politics to appear in the picture. + +The very air they breathe is impregnated with politics. Were all words +expressive of party distinctions to be banished from their +language--were the curse of Babel to fall upon them, and no man be +able to discourse with his neighbour,--still political feeling would +find itself an organ whereby to express its workings. One man would +wear a pointed hat, another a flat one; one woman would be girt with +a tri-coloured sash, and another with a white one. Some exquisites +would be closely buttoned to the chin, while the lapels of others +would open wide in all the expansive freedom of republican +unrestraint. One set would be seen adorning Napoleon's pillar with +trophies; another, prostrate before the altar of the elder Bourbon's +monumental chapel; a third, marshalling themselves under the bloody +banner of Robespierre to the tune of "Dansons la Carmagnole;" whilst a +fourth, by far the most numerous, would be brushing their national +uniforms, attending to their prosperous shops, and giving a nod of +good-fellowship every time his majesty the king passes by. + +Some friends of mine entered a shop the other day to order some +article of furniture. While they remained there, a royal carriage +passed, and one of the party said-- + +"It is the queen, I believe?" + +"Yes, sir," replied the _ébéniste_, "it is the lady that it pleases us +to call the queen. We may certainly call her so if we like it, for we +made her ourselves; and if we find it does not answer, we shall make +another.--May I send you home this table, sir?..." + +When politics are thus lightly mixed up with all things, how can the +subject be wholly avoided without destroying the power of describing +anything as we find it? + +Such being the case, I cannot promise that all allusion to the +subject shall be banished from my letters; but it shall be made as +little predominant as possible. Could I indeed succeed in transferring +the light tone in which these weighty matters are generally discussed +to the account I wish to give you of them, I need not much fear that I +should weary you. + +Whether it be essentially in the nature of the people, or only a +transitory feature of the times, I know not; but nothing strikes me so +forcibly as the airy, gay indifference with which subjects are +discussed on which hang the destinies of the world. The most +acute--nay, often the most profound remarks are uttered in a tone of +badinage; and the probabilities of future events, vital to the +interests of France, and indeed of Europe, are calculated with as idle +an air, and with infinitely more _sang froid_, than the chances at a +game of _rouge et noir_. + +Yet, behind this I suspect that there is a good deal of sturdy +determination in all parties, and it will be long ere France can be +considered as one whole and united people. Were the country divided +into two, instead of into three factions, it is probable that the +question of which was to prevail would be soon brought to an issue; +but as it is, they stand much like the uncles and nieces in the +Critic, each keeping the other two in check. + +Meanwhile this temporary division of strength is unquestionably very +favourable to the present government; in addition to which, they +derive much security from the averseness which all feel, excepting the +naughty boys and hungry desperadoes, to the disturbance of their +present tranquillity. It is evident that those who do not belong to +the triumphant majority are disposed for the most part to wait a more +favourable opportunity of hostilely and openly declaring themselves; +and it is probable that they will wait long. They know well, and are +daily reminded of it, that all the power and all the strength that +possession can give are vested in the existing dynasty; and though +much deeply-rooted feeling exists that is inimical to it, yet so many +of all parties are firmly united to prevent farther anarchy and +revolution, that the throne of Louis-Philippe perhaps rests on as +solid a foundation as that of any monarch in Europe: the fear of +renewed tumult acts like the key-stone of an arch, keeping firm, +sound, and in good condition, what would certainly fall to pieces +without it. + +In addition to this wholesome fear of pulling their own dwellings +about their ears, there is also another fear that aids greatly in +producing the same result. Many of the riotous youths who so +essentially assisted in creating the confusion which ended in +uncrowning one king and crowning another, are, as far as I can +understand, quite as well disposed to make a row now as they were +then: but they know that if they do, they will most incontestably be +whipped for it; and therefore, though they pout a little in private, +they are, generally speaking, very orderly in public. Every one, not +personally interested in the possible result of another uproar, must +rejoice at this improvement in discipline. The boys of France must now +submit to give way before her men; and as long as this lasts, +something like peace and prosperity may be hoped for. + +Yet it cannot be denied, I think, that among these prudent men--these +doctrinaires who now hold the high places, there are many who, "with +high thoughts, such as Lycurgus loved," still dream of a commonwealth; +or that there are others who have not yet weaned their waking thoughts +from meditations on faith, right, and loyalty. But nevertheless, all +unite in thinking that they had better "let things be," than risk +making them worse. + +Nothing is more common than to hear a conversation end by a cordial +and unanimous avowal of this prudent and sagacious sentiment, which +began by an examination of general principles, and the frank +acknowledgment of opinions which would certainly lead to a very +different conclusion. + +It is amusing enough to remark how these advocates for expediency +contrive each of them to find reasons why things had better remain as +they are, while all these reasons are strongly tinted by their various +opinions. + +"Charles Dix," says a legitimate in principle, but a _juste-milieu_ +man in practice,--"Charles Dix has abdicated the throne, which +otherwise must unquestionably be his by indefeasible right. His +heir-apparent has followed the example. The country was in no state to +be governed by a child; and what then was left for us, but to take a +king from the same race which so for many ages has possessed the +throne of France. _Louis-Philippe est roi, PARCEQU'il est Bourbon_." + +"Pardonnez-moi," replies another, who, if he could manage it without +disturbing the tranquillity about him, would take care to have it +understood that nothing more legitimate than an elective monarchy +could be ever permitted in France,--"Pardonnez-moi, mon ami; +_Louis-Philippe est roi, QUOIQU'il est Bourbon_." + +These two parties of the _Parceques_ and the _Quoiques_, in fact, form +the great bulwarks of King Philippe's throne; for they both consist of +experienced, practical, substantial citizens, who having felt the +horrors of anarchy, willingly keep their particular opinions in +abeyance rather than hazard a recurrence of it. They, in truth, form +between them the genuine _juste-milieu_ on which the present +government is balanced. + +That there is more of the practical wisdom of expediency than of the +dignity of unbending principle in this party, can hardly be denied. +They are "wiser in their generation than the children of light;" but +it is difficult, "seeing what we have seen, seeing what we see," to +express any heavy sentence of reprobation upon a line of conduct which +ensures, for the time at least, the lives and prosperity of millions. +They tell me that my friend the Vicomte has sapped my legitimate +principles; but I deny the charge, though I cannot deliberately wish +that confusion should take the place of order, or that the desolation +of a civil war should come to deface the aspect of prosperity that it +is so delightful to contemplate. + +This discrepancy between what is right and what is convenient--this +wavering of principle and of action, is the inevitable consequence of +repeated political convulsions. When the times become out of joint, +the human mind can with difficulty remain firm and steadfast. The +inconceivable variety of wild and ever-changing speculations which +have long overborne the voice of established belief and received +authority in this country, has brought the principles of the people +into a state greatly resembling that of a wheel radiated with every +colour of the rainbow, but which by rapid movement is left apparently +without any colour at all. + +Our last _soirée_ was at the house of a lady who takes much interest +in showing me "le Paris d'aujourd'hui," as she calls it. "Chère dame!" +she exclaimed as I entered, "I have collected _une société délicieuse_ +for you this evening." + +She had met me in the ante-room, and, taking my arm within hers, led +me into the _salon_. It was already filled with company, the majority +of which were gentlemen. Having found room for us on a sofa, and +seated herself next to me, she said-- + +"I will present whomsoever you choose to know; but before I bring +anybody up, I must explain who they all are." + +I expressed my gratitude, and she began:--"That tall gentleman is a +great republican, and one of the most respectable that we have left of +the _clique_. The party is very nearly worn out among the _gens comme +il faut_. His father, however, is of the same party, and still more +violent, I believe, than himself. Heaven knows what they would be +at!... But they are both deputies, and if they died to-morrow, would +have, either father or son, a very considerable mob to follow them to +Père Lachaise; not to mention the absolute necessity which I am sure +there would be to have troops out: c'est toujours quelque chose, +n'est-ce pas? I know that you hate them all--and, to say truth, so do +I too;--mais, chère amie! qu'est-ce que cela fait? I thought you would +like to see them: they really begin to get very scarce in _salons_." + +I assured her that she was quite right, and that nothing in the whole +Jardin des Plantes could amuse me better. + +"Ah ça!" she rejoined, laughing; "voilà ce que c'est d'être +raisonnable. Mais regardez ce beau garçon leaning against the +chimneypiece. He is one of _les fidèles sans tache_. Is he not +handsome? I have him at all my parties; and even the ministers' ladies +declare that he is perfectly charming." + +"And that little odd-looking man in black," said I, "who is he?... +What a contrast!" + +"N'est-ce pas? Do they not group well together? That is just the sort +of thing I like--it amuses everybody: besides, I assure you, he is a +very remarkable person,--in short, it is M----, the celebrated +atheist. He writes for the ----. But the Institute won't have him: +however, he is excessively talked of--and that is everything.... Then +I have two peers, both of them highly distinguished. There is M. de +----, who, you know, is King Philippe's right hand; and the gentleman +sitting down just behind him is the dear old Duc de ----, who lived +ages in exile with Louis Dix-huit.... That person almost at your +elbow, talking to the lady in blue, is the Comte de P----, a most +exemplary Catholic, who always followed Charles Dix in all religious +processions. He was half distracted, poor man! at the last revolution; +but they say he is going to dine with King Philippe next week: I long +to ask him if it is true, but I am afraid, for fear he should be +obliged to answer 'Yes;'--that would be so embarrassing!... Oh, by the +way, that is a peer that you are looking at now;--he has refused to +sit on the trial.... Now, have I not done _l'impossible_ for you?" + +I thanked her gratefully, and as I knew I could not please her better +than by showing the interest I took in her menagerie, I inquired the +name of a lady who was talking with a good deal of vehemence at the +opposite side of the room. + +"Oh! that's a person that I always call my '_dame de l'Empire_.' Her +husband was one of Napoleon's creations; and Josephine used to amuse +herself without ceasing by making her talk--her language and accent +are _impayables_!" + +"And that pretty woman in the corner?" + +"Ah! ... she is charming!... It is Madame V----, daughter of the +celebrated Vicomte de ----, so devoted, you know, to the royal cause. +But she is lately married to one of the present ministers--quite a +love-match; which is an innovation, by the way, more hard to pardon in +France than the introduction of a new dynasty. Mais c'est égal--they +are all very good friends again.... Now, tell me whom I shall +introduce to you?" + +I selected the heroine of the love-match; who was not only one of the +prettiest creatures I ever saw, but so lively, intelligent, and +agreeable, that I have seldom passed a pleasanter hour than that which +followed the introduction. The whole of this heterogeneous party +seemed to mix together with the greatest harmony; the only cold glance +I saw given being from the gentleman designated as "King Philippe's +right hand," towards the tall republican deputy of whose funeral my +friend had predicted such honours. The _dame de l'Empire_ was +indulging in a lively flirtation with one of the peers _sans tache_; +and I saw the fingers of the exemplary Catholic, who was going to dine +with King Philippe, in the _tabatière_ of the celebrated atheist. I +then remembered that this was one of the _soirées antithestiques_ so +much in fashion. + + + + +LETTER XXVIII. + + New Publications.--M. de Lamartine's "Souvenirs, Impressions, + Pensées, et Paysages."--Tocqueville and Beaumont.--New + American regulation.--M. Scribe.--Madame Tastu.--Reception of + different Writers in society. + + +Though among the new publications sent to me for perusal I have found +much to fatigue and disgust me, as must indeed be inevitable for any +one accustomed for some scores of years to nourish the heart and head +with the literature of the "_bon vieux temps_"--which means, in modern +phrase, everything musty, rusty, rococo, and forgotten,--I have yet +found some volumes which have delighted me greatly. + +M. de Lamartine's "Souvenirs, Impressions, Pensées, et Paysages" in +the East, is a work which appears to me to stand solitary and alone in +the world of letters. There is certainly nothing like it, and very +little that can equal it, in my estimation, either as a collection of +written landscapes or as a memorial of poetical feeling, just +sentiment, and refined taste. + +His descriptions may perhaps have been, in some rare instances, +equalled in mere graphic power by others; but who has painted anything +which can excite an interest so profound, or an elevation of the fancy +so lofty and so delightful? + +Alas! that the scenes he paints should be so utterly beyond one's +reach! How little, how paltry, how full of the vulgar interests of +this "working-day world," do all the other countries of the earth +appear after reading this book, when compared to Judea! But there are +few who could visit it as Lamartine has done,--there are very few +capable of feeling as he felt--and none, I think, of describing as he +describes. His words live and glow upon the paper; he pours forth +sunshine and orient light upon us,--we hear the gale whispering among +the palm-trees, see Jordan's rapid stream rushing between its flowery +banks, and feel that the scene to which he has transported us is holy +ground. + +The exalted tone of his religious feelings, and the poetic fervour +with which he expresses them, might almost lead one to believe that he +was inspired by the sacred air he breathed. It seems as if he had +found the harps which were hung up of old upon the trees, and tuned +them anew to sing of the land of David; he has "beheld the beauty of +the Lord, and inquired in his temple," and the result is exactly what +it should be. + +The manner in which this most poetic of travellers, while standing on +the ruins of Tyre, speaks of the desolation and despair that appear +settling upon the earth in these latter days, is impressive beyond +anything I know of modern date. + +Had France produced no other redeeming volumes than these, there is +enough within them to overpower and extinguish the national literary +disgrace with which it has been reproached so loudly; and it is a +comfort to remember that this work is as sure to live, as the literary +labours of the diabolic school are to perish. It is perhaps good for +us to read trash occasionally, that we may learn to value at their +worth such thoughts as we find here; and while there are any left on +earth who can so think, so feel, and so write, our case is not utterly +hopeless. + +Great, indeed, is the debt that we owe to an author like this, who, +seizing upon the imagination with power unlimited, leads it only into +scenes that purify and exalt the spirit. It is a tremendous power, +that of taking us how and where he will, which is possessed by such an +author as this. When it is used for evil, it resembles fearfully the +action of a fiend, tempting, dragging, beckoning, cajoling to +destruction: but when it is for good, it is like an angel's hand +leading us to heaven. + +I intended to have spoken to you of many other works which have +pleased me; but I really at this moment experience the strangest sort +of embarrassment imaginable in referring to them. Many agreeable new +books are lying about before me; but while my head is so full of +Lamartine and the Holy Land, everything seems to produce on me the +effect of platitude and littleness. + +I must, however, conquer this so far as to tell you that you ought to +read both Tocqueville and Beaumont on the United States. By the way, I +am assured that the Americans declare themselves determined to change +their line of conduct altogether respecting the national manner of +receiving European sketches of themselves. This new law is to embrace +three clauses. The first will enforce the total exclusion, from +henceforth and for evermore, of all European strangers from their +American homes; the second will recommend that all citizens shall +abstain from reading anything, in any language written, or about to be +written, concerning them and their affairs; and the third, in case the +other two should fail, seems to take the form of a vow, protesting +that they never will storm, rave, scold, or care about anything that +anybody can say of them more. If this passes during the presidentship +of General Jackson, it will immortalize his reign more than paying off +the national debt. + +Having thus, somehow or other, slipped from the Holy Land to the +United States of America, I feel sufficiently subdued in spirit to +speak of lesser things than Lamartine's "Pilgrimage." + +On one point, indeed, a sense of justice urges me, when on the subject +of modern productions, to warn you against the error of supposing that +all the new theatrical pieces, which come forth here as rapidly and as +brilliantly as the blossoms of the gum cistus, and which fade almost +as soon, are of the nature and tendency of those I have mentioned as +belonging to the Victor Hugo school. On the contrary, I have seen +many, and read more, of these little comedies and vaudevilles, which +are not only free from every imputation of mischief, but absolutely +perfect in their kind. + +The person whose name is celebrated far above all others for this +species of composition, is M. Scribe; and were it not that his +extraordinary facility enables him to pour forth these pretty trifles +in such abundance as already to have assured him a very large fortune, +which offers an excellent excuse in these _positif_ times for him, I +should say that he would have done better had he written less. + +He has shown on several occasions, as in "L'Ambitieux," "Bertrand et +Raton," &c. that he can succeed in that most difficult of tasks, good +legitimate comedy, as well as in the lighter labour of striking off a +sparkling vaudeville. It is certain, indeed, that, spite of all we +say, and say in some respects so justly, respecting the corrupted +taste of France at the present era, there never was a time when her +stage could boast a greater affluence of delightful little pieces than +at present. + +I really am afraid to enter more at large upon this theme, from a +literal _embarras de richesses_. If I begin to name these pretty, +lively trifles, I shall run into a list much too long for your +patience: for though Scribe is still the favourite as well as the most +fertile source of these delightful novelties, there are one or two +others who follow him at some little distance, and who amongst them +produce such a sum total of new pieces in the year as would make an +English manager tremble to think of;--but here the chief cost of +bringing them out is drawn, not from the theatrical treasury, but from +the ever-fresh wit and spirit of the performers. + +Such an author as Scribe is a national museum of invention--a +never-failing source of new enjoyment to his lively countrymen, and he +has probably tasted the pleasures of a bright and lasting reputation +as fully as any author living. We are already indebted to him for many +charming importations; and, thanks to the Yates talent, we begin to be +not unworthy of receiving such. If we cannot have Shakspeare, Racine, +and Molière got up for us quite "in the grand style of former years," +these bright, light, biting, playful, graceful little pieces are by +far the best substitutes for them, while we wait with all the patience +we can for a new growth of players, who shall give honour due to the +next tragedy Miss Mitford may bestow upon us. + +Another proof that it is not necessary to be vicious in order to be in +vogue at Paris, and that purity is no impediment to success, is the +popularity of Madame Tastu's poetry. She writes as a woman ought to +write--with grace, feeling, delicacy, and piety. + +Her literary efforts, however, are not confined to the "flowery path +of poesy;" though it is impossible not to perceive that she lingers in +it with delight, and that when she leaves it, she does so from no +truant inclination to wander elsewhere, but from some better impulse. +Her work entitled "Education Maternelle" would prove a most valuable +acquisition to English mothers desirous themselves of giving early +lessons in French to their children. The pronunciation and +accentuation are marked in a manner greatly to facilitate the task, +especially to a foreigner; whose greatest difficulty, when attempting +to teach the language without the aid of a native master, is exactly +what these initiatory lessons are so well calculated to obviate. + +It is no small source of consolation and of hope, at a period when a +sort of universal epidemic frenzy appears to have seized upon the +minds of men, leading them to advocate as good that which all +experience shows to be evil, and to give specimens of dirty delirium +that might be collected in an hospital, by way of exalted works of +imagination,--it is full of hope and consolation to find that, however +rumour may clamour forth tidings of these sad ravings whenever they +appear, fame still rests only with such as really deserve it. + +Let a first-rate collector of literary lions at Paris make it known +that M. de Lamartine would appear at her _soirée_, and the permission +to enter there would be sought so eagerly, that before eleven o'clock +there would not be standing-room in her apartments, though they might +be as spacious as any the "belle ville" can show. But let it be +announced that the authors of any of the obscene masques and mummings +which have disgraced the theatres of France would present themselves, +and depend upon it they would find space sufficient to enact the part +of Triboulet at the moment when he exclaims in soliloquy, + + "Que je suis grand ici!" + + + + +LETTER XXIX. + + Sunday in Paris.--Family Groups.--Popular Enjoyment.--Polytechnic + Students.--Their resemblance to the figure of Napoleon.--Enduring + attachment to the Emperor.--Conservative spirit of the English + Schools.--Sunday in the Gardens of the Tuileries.--Religion of + the Educated.--Popular Opinion. + + +Sunday is a delightful day in Paris--more so than in any place I ever +visited, excepting Francfort. The enjoyment is so universal, and yet +so domestic; were I to form my idea of the national character from the +scenes passing before my eyes on that day, instead of from books and +newspapers, I should say that the most remarkable features in it, were +conjugal and parental affection. + +It is rare to see either a man or a woman, of an age to be wedded and +parents, without their being accompanied by their partner and their +offspring. The cup of light wine is drunk between them; the scene that +is sought for amusement by the one is also enjoyed by the other; and +whether it be little or whether it be much that can be expended on +this day of jubilee, the man and wife share it equally. + +I have entered many churches during the hours of the morning masses, +in many different parts of the town, and, as I have before stated, I +have uniformly found them extremely crowded; and though I have never +remarked any instances of that sort of penitential devotion so +constantly seen in the churches of Belgium when the painfully extended +arms remind one of the Hindoo solemnities, the appearance of earnest +and devout attention to what is going on is universal. + +It is not till after the grand mass is over that the population pours +itself out over every part of the town, not so much to seek as to meet +amusement. And they are sure to find it; for not ten steps can be +taken in any direction without encountering something that shall +furnish food for enjoyment of some kind or other. + +There is no sight in the world that I love better than a numerous +populace during their hours of idleness and glee. When they assemble +themselves together for purposes of legislation, I confess I do not +greatly love or admire them; but when they are enjoying themselves, +particularly when women and children share in the enjoyment, they +furnish a delightful spectacle--and nowhere can it be seen to greater +advantage than in Paris. The nature of the people--the nature of the +climate--the very form and arrangement of the city, are all especially +favourable to the display of it. It is in the open air, under the +blue vault of heaven, before the eyes of thousands, that they love to +bask and disport themselves. The bright, clear atmosphere seems made +on purpose for them; and whoever laid out the boulevards, the quays, +the gardens of Paris, surely remembered, as they did so, how necessary +space was for the assembling together of her social citizens. + +The young men of the Polytechnic School make a prominent feature in a +Paris Sunday; for it is only on the _jours de fête_ that they are +permitted to range at liberty through the town: but all occasions of +this kind cause the streets and public walks to swarm with young +Napoleons. + +It is quite extraordinary to see how the result of a strong principle +or sentiment may show itself externally on a large body of +individuals, making those alike, whom nature has made as dissimilar as +possible. There is not one of these Polytechnic lads, the eldest of +whom could hardly have seen the light of day before Napoleon had left +the soil of France for ever,--there is hardly one of them who does not +more or less remind one of the well-known figure and air of the +Emperor. Be they tall, be they short, be they fat, be they thin, it is +the same,--there is some approach (evidently the result of having +studied their worshipped model closely in paintings, engravings, +bronzes, marbles, and Sèvres china,) to that look and bearing which, +till the most popular tyrant that ever lived had made it as well known +as sunshine to the eyes of France, was as little resembling to the +ordinary appearance and carriage of her citizens as possible. + +The tailor can certainly do much towards making the exterior of one +individual look like the exterior of another; but he cannot do all +that we see in the mien of a Polytechnic scholar that serves to recall +the extraordinary man whose name, after years of exile and of death, +is decidedly the most stirring that can be pronounced in France. Busy, +important, and most full of human interest has been the period since +his downfall; yet his memory is as fresh among them as if he had +marched into the Tuileries triumphant from one of his hundred +victories but yesterday. + +O, if the sovereign people could but understand as well as read!... +And O that some Christian spirit could be found who would interpret to +them, in such accents as they would listen to, the life and adventures +of Napoleon the Great! What a deal of wisdom they might gain by it! +Where could be found a lesson so striking as this to a people who are +weary of being governed, and desire, one and all, to govern +themselves? With precisely the same weariness, with precisely the +same desire, did this active, intelligent, and powerful people throw +off, some forty years ago, the yoke of their laws and the authority of +their king. Then were they free as the sand of the desert--not one +individual atom of the mighty mass but might have risen in the +hurricane of that tempest as high as the unbridled wind of his +ambition could carry him; and what followed? Why, they grew sick to +death of the giddy whirl, where each man knocked aside his neighbour, +and there was none to say "Forbear!" Then did they cling, like sinking +souls in the act of drowning, to the first bold man who dared to +replace the yoke upon their necks; they clung to him through years of +war that mowed down their ranks as a scythe mows down the ripe corn, +and yet they murmured not. For years they suffered their young sons to +be torn from their sides while they still hung to them with all the +first fondness of youth, and yet they murmured not;--for years they +lived uncheered by the wealth that commerce brings, uncheered by any +richer return of labour than the scanty morsel that sustained their +life of toil, and yet they murmured not: for they had once more a +prince upon the throne--they had once more laws, firmly administered, +which kept them from the dreaded horrors of anarchy; and they clung to +their tyrant prince, and his strict and stern enactments, with a +devotion of gratitude and affection which speaks plainly enough their +lasting thankfulness to the courage which was put forth in their hour +of need to relieve them from the dreadful burden of self-government. + +This gratitude and affection endures still--nothing will ever efface +it; for his military tyranny is passed away, and the benefits which +his colossal power enabled him to bestow upon them remain, and must +remain as long as France endures. The only means by which another +sovereign may rival Napoleon in popularity, is by rivalling him in +power. Were some of the feverish blood which still keeps France in +agitation to be drawn from her cities to reinforce her military array, +and were a hundred thousand of the sons of France marched off to +restore to Italy her natural position in Europe, power, glory, and +popularity would sustain the throne, and tranquillity be restored to +the people. Without some such discipline, poor young France may very +probably die of a plethora. If she has not this, she must have a +government as absolute as that of Russia to keep her from mischief: +and that she will have one or the other before long, I have not the +least doubt in the world; for there are many very clever personages at +and near the seat of power who will not be slow to see or to do what +is needful. + +Meanwhile this fine body of young men are, as I understand, receiving +an education calculated to make them most efficient officers, whenever +they are called upon to serve. Unfortunately for the reputation of the +Polytechnic School, their names were brought more forward than was +creditable to those who had the charge of them, during the riots of +1830. But the government which the men of France accepted from the +hands of the boys really appears to be wiser and better than they had +any right to expect from authority so strangely constituted. The new +government very properly uses the strength given it, for the purpose +of preventing the repetition of the excesses to which it owes its +origin; and these fine lads are now said to be in a state of very +respectable discipline, and to furnish no contemptible bulwark to the +throne. + +It is otherwise, however, as I hear, with most of the bodies of young +men collected together in Paris for the purpose of education. The +silly cant of republicanism has got among them; and till this is +mended, continued little riotous outbreakings of a naughty-boy spirit +must be expected. + +One of the happiest circumstances in the situation of poor struggling +England at present is, that her boys are not republican. On the +contrary, the rising spirit among us is decidedly conservative. All +our great schools are tory to the heart's core. The young English +have been roused, awakened, startled at the peril which threatens the +land of their fathers! The _penny king_ who has invaded us has +produced on them the effect usual on all invasions; and rather than +see him and his popish court succeed in conquering England, they would +rush from their forms and their cloisters to repel him, shouting, +"Alone we'll do it, BOYS!"--and they would do it, too, even if they +had no fathers to help them. + +But I have forgotten my Sunday holiday, while talking about the gayest +and happiest of those it brings forth to decorate the town. Many a +proud and happy mother may on these occasions be seen leaning on the +arm of a son that she is very conscious looks like an emperor; and +many a pretty creature, whom her familiarity, as well as her features, +proclaims to be a sister, shows in her laughing eyes that the day +which gives her smart young brother freedom is indeed a _jour de fête_ +for her. + +You will be weary of the Tuileries Gardens; but I cannot keep out of +them, particularly when talking of a Paris Sunday, of whose prettiest +groups they are the rendezvous: the whole day's history may be read in +them. As soon as the gates are open, figures both male and female, in +dishabille more convenient than elegant, may be seen walking across +them in every direction towards the _sortie_ which leads towards +the quay, and thence onwards to _Les Bains Vigier_. Next come the +after-breakfast groups: and these are beautiful. Elegant young mothers +in half-toilet accompany their _bonnes_, and the pretty creatures +committed to their care, to watch for an hour the happy gambols which +the presence of the "chère maman" renders seven times more gay than +ordinary. + + [Illustration: Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu. + TUILERIES GARDENS, ON SUNDAY. + London, Published by Richard Bentley, 1835.] + +I have watched such, repeatedly, with extreme amusement; often +attempting to read, but never able to pursue the occupation for +three-quarters of a minute together, till they at last abandon it +altogether, and sit with the useless volume upon their knee, +complacently answering all the baby questions that may be proposed to +them, while watching with the smiling satisfaction of well-pleased +maternity every attitude, every movement, and every grimace of the +darling miniatures in which they see themselves, and perhaps one +dearer still. + +From about ten till one o'clock the gardens swarm with children and +their attendants: and pretty enough they are, and amusing too, with +their fanciful dresses and their baby wilfulness. Then comes the hour +of early dinners: the nurses and the children retreat; and were it +possible that any hour of the day could find a public walk in Paris +unoccupied, it would be this. + +The next change shows the gradual influx of best bonnets,--pink, +white, green, blue. Feathers float onwards, and fresh flowers are seen +around: gay barouches rush down the Rues Castiglione and Rivoli; cabs +swing round every corner, all to deposit their gay freight within the +gardens. By degrees, double, treble rows of chairs are occupied on +either side of every walk, while the whole space between is one vast +moving mass of pleasant idleness. + +This lasts till five; and then, as the elegant crowd withdraws, +another, less graceful perhaps, but more animated, takes its place. +Caps succeed to bonnets; and unchecked laughter, loud with youth and +glee, replaces the whispered gallantry, the silent smile, and all the +well-bred ways of giving and receiving thoughts with as little +disturbance to the circumambient air as possible. + +From this hour to nightfall the multitude goes on increasing; and did +one not know that every theatre, every guinguette, every boulevard, +every café in Paris were at the same time crammed almost to +suffocation, one might be tempted to believe that the whole population +had assembled there to recreate themselves before the windows of the +king. + +Among the higher ranks the Sunday evening at Paris is precisely the +same as that of any other day. There are the same number of _soirées_ +going on, and no more; the same number of dinner-parties, just as +much card-playing, just as much dancing, just as much music, and just +as much going to the opera; but the other theatres are generally left +to the _endimanchés_. + +You must not, however, imagine that no religious exercises are +attended to among the rich and noble because I have said nothing +especially about them on this point. On the contrary, I have great +reason to believe that it is not alone the attractive eloquence of the +popular preachers which draws such multitudes of wealthy and high-born +females into the fashionable churches of Paris; but that they go to +pray as well as to listen. Nevertheless, as to the general state of +religion amongst the educated classes in Paris, it is quite as +difficult to obtain information as it is to learn with anything like +tolerable accuracy the average state of their politics. It is not that +there is the least reserve or apparent hanging back when either +subject is discussed; on the contrary, all seem kindly eager to answer +every question, and impart to you all the information it is possible +to wish for: but the variety of statements is inconceivable; and as I +have repeatedly listened to very strong and positive assertions +respecting the opinions of the majority, from those in whose sincerity +I have perfect confidence, but which have been flatly contradicted by +others equally deserving of credit, I am led to suppose that in +effect the public mind is still wavering on both subjects. There is, +in fact, but one point upon which I truly and entirely believe that an +overwhelming majority exists,--and this is in the aversion felt for +any farther trial of a republican form of government. + +The party who advocate the cause of democracy do indeed make the most +noise--it is ever their wont to do so. Neither the Chamber of Deputies +nor the Chamber of Peers can assemble nightly at a given spot to +scream "Vive le Roi!" nor are the quiet citizens, who most earnestly +wish to support the existing government, at all more likely to leave +their busy shops for this purpose than the members of the two Chambers +are to quit their _hôtels_;--so that any attempt to judge the +political feelings of the people by the outcries heard in the streets +must of necessity lead to error. Yet it is of such judgments, both at +home and abroad, that we hear the most. + +As to the real private feelings on the subject of religion which exist +among the educated portion of the people, it is still more difficult +to form an opinion, for on this subject the strongest indications are +often declared to prove nothing. If churches filled to overflowing be +proof of national piety, then are the people pious: and farther than +this, no looker-on such as myself should, I think, attempt to go. + + + + +LETTER XXX. + + Madame Récamier.--Her Morning Parties.--Gérard's Picture of + Corinne.--Miniature of Madame de Staël.--M. de + Châteaubriand.--Conversation on the degree in which the + French Language is understood by Foreigners.--The necessity + of speaking French. + + +Of all the ladies with whom I have become acquainted in Paris, the one +who appears to me to be the most perfect specimen of an elegant +Frenchwoman is Madame Récamier,--the same Madame Récamier that, I will +not say how many years ago, I remember to have seen in London, the +admired of all eyes: and, wonderful to say, she is so still. Formerly +I knew her only from seeing her in public, where she was pointed out +to me as the most beautiful woman in Europe; but now that I have the +pleasure of her acquaintance, I can well understand, though you who +know her only by the reputation of her early beauty may not, how and +why it is that fascinations generally so evanescent are with her so +lasting. She is, in truth, the very model of all grace. In person, +manner, movement, dress, voice, and language, she seems universally +allowed to be quite perfect; and I really cannot imagine a better mode +of giving a last finish to a young lady's study of the graces, than by +affording her an opportunity of observing every movement and gesture +of Madame Récamier. + +She is certainly a monopolist of talents and attractions which would +suffice, if divided in ordinary proportions, to furnish forth a host +of charming women. I never met with a Frenchman who did not allow, +that though his countrywomen were charming from _agrémens_ which seem +peculiarly their own, they have fewer faultless beauties among them +than may be found in England; but yet, as they say, "Quand une +Française se mêle d'être jolie, elle est furieusement jolie." This +_mot_ is as true in point of fact as piquant in expression;--a +beautiful Frenchwoman is, perhaps, the most beautiful woman in the +world. + +The perfect loveliness of Madame Récamier has made her "a thing to +wonder at:" and now that she has passed the age when beauty is at its +height, she is perhaps to be wondered at still more; for I really +doubt if she ever excited more admiration than she does at present. +She is followed, sought, looked at, listened to, and, moreover, +beloved and esteemed, by a very large circle of the first society in +Paris, among whom are numbered some of the most illustrious literary +names in France. + +That her circle, as well as herself, is delightful, is so generally +acknowledged, that by adding my voice to the universal judgment, I +perhaps show as much vanity, as gratitude for the privilege of being +admitted within it: but no one, I believe, so favoured could, when +speaking of the society of Paris, omit so striking a feature of it as +the _salon_ of Madame Récamier. She contrives to make even the +still-life around her partake of the charm for which she is herself so +remarkable, and there is a fine and finished elegance in everything +about her that is irresistibly attractive: I have often entered +drawing-rooms almost capable of containing her whole suite of +apartments, and found them infinitely less striking in their +magnificence than her beautiful little _salon_ in the Abbaye-aux-Bois. + +The rich draperies of white silk, the delicate blue tint that mixes +with them throughout the apartment,--the mirrors, the flowers,--all +together give an air to the room that makes it accord marvellously +well with its fair inhabitant. One might fancy that Madame Récamier +herself was for ever _vouée au blanc_, for no drapery falls around her +that is not of snowy whiteness--and indeed the mixture of almost any +colour would seem like profanation to the exquisite delicacy of her +appearance. + +Madame Récamier admits morning visits from a limited number of +persons, whose names are given to the servant attending in the +ante-room, every day from four till six. It was here I had the +pleasure of being introduced to M. de Châteaubriand, and had +afterwards the gratification of repeatedly meeting him; a +gratification that I shall assuredly never forget, and for which I +would have willingly sacrificed one-half of the fine things which +reward the trouble of a journey to Paris. + +The circle thus received is never a large one, and the conversation is +always general. The first day that I and my daughters were there, we +found, I think, but two ladies, and about half a dozen gentlemen, of +whom M. de Châteaubriand was one. A magnificent picture by Gérard, +boldly and sublimely conceived, and executed in his very best manner, +occupies one side of the elegant little _salon_. The subject is +Corinne, in a moment of poetical excitement, a lyre in her hand, and a +laurel crown upon her head. Were it not for the modern costume of +those around her, the figure must be mistaken for that of Sappho: and +never was that impassioned being, the martyred saint of youthful +lovers, portrayed with more sublimity, more high poetic feeling, or +more exquisite feminine grace. + +The contemplation of this _chef-d'oeuvre_ naturally led the +conversation to Madame de Staël. Her intimacy with Madame Récamier is +as well known as the biting reply of the former to an unfortunate man, +who having contrived to place himself between them, exclaimed,--"Me +voilà entre l'esprit et la beauté!" + +To which bright sally he received for answer--"Sans posséder ni l'un +ni l'autre." + +My knowledge of this intimacy induced me to take advantage of the +occasion, and I ventured to ask Madame Récamier if Madame de Staël had +in truth intended to draw her own character in that of Corinne. + +"Assuredly ..." was the reply. "The soul of Madame de Staël is fully +developed in her portrait of that of Corinne." Then turning to the +picture, she added, "Those eyes are the eyes of Madame de Staël." + +She put a miniature into my hand, representing her friend in all the +bloom of youth, at an age indeed when she could not have been known to +Madame Récamier. The eyes had certainly the same dark beauty, the same +inspired expression, as those given to Corinne by Gérard. But the +artist had too much taste or too little courage to venture upon any +farther resemblance; the thick lips and short fat chin of the real +sibyl being changed into all that is loveliest in female beauty on the +canvass. + +The apparent age of the face represented in the miniature points out +its date with tolerable certainty; and it gives no very favourable +idea of the taste of the period; for the shock head of crisped Brutus +curls is placed on arms and bust as free from drapery, though better +clothed in plumpness, than those of the Medicean Venus. + +As we looked first at one picture, then at the other, and conversed on +both, I was struck with the fine forehead and eyes, delightful voice, +and peculiarly graceful turn of expression, of a gentleman who sat +opposite to me, and who joined in this conversation. + +I remarked to Madame Récamier that few romances had ever had the +honour of being illustrated by such a picture as this of Gérard, and +that, from many circumstances, her pleasure in possessing it must be +very great. + +"It is indeed," she replied: "nor is it my only treasure of the +kind--I am so fortunate as to possess Girodet's original drawing from +Atala, the engraving from which you must often have seen. Let me show +you the original." + +We followed her to the dining-room, where this very interesting +drawing is placed. "You do not know M. de Châteaubriand?" said she. + +I replied that I had not that pleasure. + +"It is he who was sitting opposite to you in the _salon_." + +I begged that she would introduce him to me; and upon our returning to +the drawing-room she did so. The conversation was resumed, and most +agreeably--every one bore a part in it. Lamartine, Casimir Delavigne, +Dumas, Victor Hugo, and some others, passed under a light but clever +and acute review. Our Byron, Scott, &c. followed; and it was evident +that they had been read and understood. I asked M. de Châteaubriand if +he had known Lord Byron: he replied, "Non;" adding, "Je l'avais +précédé dans la vie, et malheureusement il m'a précédé au tombeau." + +The degree in which any country is capable of fully appreciating the +literature of another was canvassed, and M. de Châteaubriand declared +himself decidedly of opinion that such appreciation was always and +necessarily very imperfect. Much that he said on the subject appeared +incontrovertibly true, especially as respecting the slight and +delicate shadows of expression of which the subtile grace so +constantly seems to escape at the first attempt to convert it into +another idiom. Nevertheless, I suspect that the majority of English +readers--I mean the English readers of French--are more _au fait_ of +the original literature of France than M. de Châteaubriand supposes. + +The habit, so widely extended amongst us, of reading this language +almost from infancy, gives us a greater familiarity with their idiom +than he is aware of. He doubted if we could relish Molière, and named +Lafontaine as one beyond the reach of extra-Gallican criticism or +enjoyment. + +I cannot agree to this, though I am not surprised that such an idea +should exist. Every English person that comes to Paris is absolutely +obliged to speak French, almost whether they can or can not. If they +shrink from doing so, they can have no hope of either speaking or +being spoken to at all. This is alone sufficient to account very +satisfactorily, I think, for any doubt which may prevail as to the +national proficiency in the language. No Frenchman that is at all in +the habit of meeting the English in society but must have his ears and +his memory full of false concords, false tenses, and false accents; +and can we wonder that he should set it down as a certain fact, that +they who thus speak cannot be said to understand the language they so +mangle? Yet, plausible as the inference is, I doubt if it be +altogether just. Which of the most accomplished Hellenists of either +country would be found capable of sustaining a familiar conversation +in Greek? The case is precisely the same; for I have known very many +whose power of tasting the beauty of French writing amounted to the +most critical acuteness, who would have probably been unintelligible +had they attempted to converse in the language for five minutes +together; whereas many others, who have perhaps had a French valet or +waiting-maid, may possess a passably good accent and great facility of +imitative expression in conversation, who yet would be puzzled how to +construe with critical accuracy the easiest passage in Rousseau. + +A very considerable proportion of the educated French read English, +and often appear to enter very ably into the spirit of our authors; +but there is not one in fifty of these who will pronounce a single +word of the language in conversation. Though they endure with a polite +gravity, perfectly imperturbable, the very drollest blunders of which +language is capable, they cannot endure to run the risk of making +blunders in return. Everything connected with the externals of good +society is held as sacred by the members of it; and if they shrink +from offending _la bienséance_ by laughing at the mistakes of others, +they avoid, with at least an equal degree of caution, the unpardonable +offence of committing any themselves. + +I do not believe that it would be possible for a French person to +enter into conversation merely for the pleasure of conversing, and not +from the pressure of absolute necessity, unless he were certain, or at +least believed himself to be so, that he should express himself with +propriety and elegance. The idea of uttering the brightest or the +noblest thought that ever entered a human head, in an idiom +ridiculously broken, would, I am sure, be accompanied with a feeling +of repugnance sufficient to tame the most animated and silence the +most loquacious Frenchman in existence. + +It therefore falls wholly upon the English, in this happy period of +constant and intimate intercourse between the nations, to submit to +the surrender of their vanity, to gratify their love for conversation; +blundering on in conscious defiance of grammar and accent, rather than +lose the exceeding pleasure of listening in return to the polished +phrase, the graceful period, the epigrammatic turn, which make so +essential a part of genuine high-bred French conversation. + +But the doubts expressed by M. de Châteaubriand as to the possibility +of the last and best grace of French writing being fully appreciated +by foreigners, was not confined wholly to the English,--the Germans +appeared to share it with us; and one who has been recently proclaimed +as the first of living German critics was quoted as having confounded +in his style, names found among the immortals of the French Pantheon, +with those of such as live and die; _Monsieur_ Fontaine, and +_Monsieur_ Bruyère, being expressions actually extant in his writings. + +More than once, during subsequent visits to Madame Récamier, I led her +to speak of her lost and illustrious friend. I have never been more +interested than while listening to all which this charming woman said +of Madame de Staël: every word she uttered seemed a mixture of pain +and pleasure, of enthusiasm and regret. It is melancholy to think how +utterly impossible it is that she should ever find another to replace +her. She seems to feel this, and to have surrounded herself by +everything that can contribute to keep the recollection of what is for +ever gone, fresh in her memory. The original of the posthumous +portrait of Madame de Staël by Gérard, made so familiar to all the +world by engravings--nay, even by Sèvres vases and tea-cups, hangs in +her bed-room. The miniature I have mentioned is always near her; and +the inspired figure of her Corinne, in which it is evident that Madame +Récamier traces a resemblance to her friend beyond that of features +only, appears to be an object almost of veneration as well as love. + +It is delightful to approach thus to a being that I have always been +accustomed to contemplate as something in the clouds. Admirable and +amiable as my charming new acquaintance is in a hundred ways, her past +intimacy and ever-enduring affection for Madame de Staël have given +her a still higher interest in my eyes. + + + + +LETTER XXXI. + + Exhibition of Sèvres China at the Louvre.--Gobelins and + Beauvais Tapestry.--Legitimatist Father and Doctrinaire + Son.--Copies from the Medicean Gallery. + + +We are just returned from an exhibition at the Louvre; and a very +splendid exhibition it is--though, alas! but a poor consolation for +the hidden treasures of the picture-gallery. Several magnificent rooms +are now open for the display of works in tapestry and Sèvres +porcelain; and however much we might have preferred seeing something +else there, it is impossible to deny that these rooms contain many +objects as wonderful perhaps in their way as any that the higher +branches of art ever produced. + +The copy of Titian's portrait of his mistress, on porcelain, and still +more perhaps that of Raphaël's "Virgin and St. John watching the sleep +of the infant Jesus," (the _Parce somnum rumpere_,) are, I think, the +most remarkable; both being of the same size as the originals, and +performed with a perfection of colouring that is almost +inconceivable. + +That the fragile clay of which porcelain is fabricated should so lend +itself to the skill of the workman,--or rather, that the workman's +skill should so triumph over the million chances which exist against +bringing unbroken out of the fire a smooth and level _plaque_ of such +extent,--is indeed most wonderful. Still more so is the skill which +has enabled the artist to prophesy, as he painted with his greys and +his greens, that the tints which flowed from his pencil of one colour, +should assume, from the nicely-regulated action of an element the most +difficult to govern, hues and shades so exquisitely imitative of his +great original. + +But having acknowledged this, I have nothing more to say in praise of +a _tour de force_ which, in my opinion, can only be attempted by the +sacrifice of common sense. The _chefs-d'oeuvre_ of a Titian or a +Raphaël are treasures of which we may lawfully covet an imitation; but +why should it be attempted in a manner the most difficult, the most +laborious, the most likely to fail, and the most liable to destruction +when completed?--not to mention that, after all, there is in the most +perfect copy on porcelain a something--I am mistress of no words to +define it--which does not satisfy the mind. + +As far as regards my own feelings indeed, I could go farther, and say +that the effect produced is to a certain degree positively +disagreeable,--not quite unlike that occasioned by examining +needlework performed without fingers, or watch-papers exquisitely cut +out by feet instead of hands. The admiration demanded is less for the +thing itself, than for the very defective means employed to produce +it. Were there indeed none other, the inventor would deserve a statue, +and the artist, like Trisotin, should take the air "_en carrosse +doré_:" but as it is, I would rather see a good copy on canvass than +on china. + +Far different, however, is the effect produced by this beautiful and +ingenious branch of art when displayed in the embellishment of cups +and plates, vases and tea-trays. I never saw anything more gracefully +appropriate to the last high finish of domestic elegance than all the +articles of this description exhibited this year at the Louvre. It is +impossible to admire or to praise them too much; or to deny that, +wonderfully as similar manufactories have improved in England within +the last thirty years, we have still nothing equal to the finer +specimens of the Sèvres porcelain. + +These rooms were, like every other place in Paris where human beings +know that they shall meet each other, extremely full of company; and I +have certainly never seen such ecstasy of admiration produced by any +objects exhibited to the public eye, as was elicited by some of the +articles displayed on this occasion: they are indeed most beautiful; +the form, the material, the workmanship, all perfect. + +The Sèvres manufactory must, I think, have some individuals attached +to it who have made the theory of colour an especial study. It is +worth while to walk round the vast table, or rather platform, raised +in the middle of the apartment, for the purpose of examining the +different sets, with a view only to observe the effect produced on the +eye by the arrangement of colours in each. + +The finest specimens, after the wonderful copies from pictures which I +have already mentioned, are small breakfast-sets--for a _tête-à-tête_, +I believe,--enclosed in large cases lined either with white satin or +white velvet. These cases are all open for inspection, but with a +stout brass bar around, to protect them from the peril of too near an +approach. The lid is so formed as exactly to receive the tray; while +the articles to be placed upon it, when in use, are arranged each in +its own delicate recess, with such an attention to composition and +general effect as to show all and everything to the greatest possible +advantage. + +Some of these exquisite specimens are decorated with flowers, some +with landscapes, and others with figures, or miniatures of heads, +either superlative in beauty or distinguished by fame. These beautiful +decorations, admirable as they all are in design and execution, struck +me less than the perfect taste with which the reigning colour which +pervades each set, either as background, lining, or border, is made to +harmonize with the ornaments upon it. + +It is a positive pleasure, independent of the amusement which may be +derived from a closer examination, to cast the eye over the general +effect produced by the consummate taste and skill thus displayed. +Those curious affinities and antipathies among colours, which I have +seen made the subject of many pretty experimental lectures, must, I am +sure, have been studied and acted upon by the _colour-master_ of each +department; and the result is to my feelings productive of a pleasure, +from the contemplation of the effect produced, as distinct from the +examination of the design, or of any other circumstance connected with +the art, as the gratification produced by the smell of an +orange-blossom or a rose: it is a pleasure which has no connexion with +the intellect, but arises solely from its agreeable effect on the +sense. + +The eye seems to be unconsciously soothed and gratified, and lingers +upon the rich, the soft, or the brilliant hues, with a satisfaction +that positively amounts to enjoyment. + +Whoever may be occupied by the "delightful task" of fitting up a +sumptuous drawing-room, will do well to take a tour round a room +filled with sets of Sèvres porcelain. The important question of "What +colours shall we mix?" would receive an answer there, with the +delightful certainty that no solecism in taste could possibly be +committed by obeying it. + +The Gobelins and Beauvais work for chairs, screens, cushions, and +various other articles, makes a great display this year. It is very +beautiful, both in design and execution; and at the present moment, +when the stately magnificence of the age of Louis Quinze is so much in +vogue--in compliment, it is said, to the taste of the Duc +d'Orléans,--this costly manufacture is likely again to flourish. + +Never can a large and lofty chamber present an appearance of more +princely magnificence than when thus decorated; and the manner in +which this elaborate style of ancient embellishment is now adopted to +modern use, is equally ingenious and elegant. + +Some political economists talk of the national advantage of decreasing +labour by machinery, while others advocate every fashion which demands +the work of hands. I will not attempt to decide on which side wisdom +lies; but, in our present imperfect condition, everything that brings +an innocent and profitable occupation to women appears to me +desirable. + +The needles of France are assuredly the most skilful in the world; and +set to work as they are upon designs that rival those of the Vatican +in elegance, they produce a perfection of embroidery that sets all +competition at defiance. + +In pursuing my way along the rail which encloses the specimens +exhibited--a progress which was necessarily very slow from the +pressure of the crowd,--I followed close behind a tall, elegant, +aristocratic-looking gentleman, who was accompanied by his +son--decidedly his son,--the boy "fathered himself;" I never saw a +stronger likeness. Their conversation, which I overheard by no act of +impertinent listening, but because I could not possibly avoid it, +amused me much. I am seldom thrown into such close contact with +strangers without making a fancy-sketch of who and what they are; but +upon this occasion I was thrown out,--it was like reading a novel, the +_dénouement_ of which is so well concealed as to evade guessing. The +boy and his father were not of one mind; their observations were made +in the spirit of different parties: the father, I suspect, was a +royalist,--the son, I am sure, was a young doctrinaire. The crowd hung +long upon the spot where a magnificent collection of embroidery for +the seats and backs of a set of chairs was displayed. "They are for +the Duke of Orleans," said the father. + +"Yes, yes," said the boy; "they are fit for him--they are princely." + +"They are fit for a king!" said the father with a sigh. + +The lad paused for a moment, and then said, _avec intention_, as the +stage directions express it, "Mais lui aussi, il est fils de St. +Louis; n'est-ce pas?" The father answered not, and the crowd moved on. + +All I could make of this was, that the boy's instructor, whether male +or female, was a faithful disciple of the "_PARCEQU'il est Bourbon_" +school; and whatever leaven of wavering faith may be mixed up with +this doctrine, it forms perhaps the best defence to be found for +attachment to the reigning dynasty amongst those who are too young to +enter fully into the expediency part of the question. + +In the last of the suite of rooms opened for this exhibition, are +displayed splendid pieces of tapestry from subjects taken from Rubens' +Medicean Gallery. + +That the achievement of these enormous combinations of stitches must +have been a labour of extreme difficulty, there can be no doubt; but +notwithstanding my admiration for French needles, I am tempted to add, +in the words of our uncompromising moralist, "Would it had been +impossible!" + + + + +LETTER XXXII. + + Eglise Apostolique Française.--Its doctrine.--L'Abbé + Auzou.--His Sermon on "les Plaisirs Populaires." + + +Among the multitude of friendly injunctions to see this, and to hear +that, which have produced me so much agreeable occupation, I have more +than once been very earnestly recommended to visit the "Eglise +Apostolique Française" on the Boulevard St. Denis, for the purpose of +hearing l'Abbé Auzou, and still more, that I might have an opportunity +of observing the peculiarities of this mode of worship, or rather of +doctrine; for, in fact, the ceremonies at the altar differ but little, +as far as I can perceive, from those of the Church of Rome, excepting +that the evident poverty of the establishment precludes the splendour +which usually attends the performance of its offices. I have no very +satisfactory data by which to judge of the degree of estimation in +which this new sect is held: by some I have heard them spoken of as +apostles, and by others as a Paria caste unworthy of any notice. + +Before hearing M. L'Abbé Auzou, or attending the service at his +church, I wished to read some of the publications which explain their +tenets, and accordingly called at the little bureau behind their +chapel on the Boulevard St. Denis, where we were told these +publications could be found. Having purchased several pamphlets +containing catechism, hymns, sermons, and so forth, we entered into +conversation with the young man who presided in this obscure and dark +closet, dignified by the name of "Secrétariat de l'Eglise Apostolique +Française." + +He told us that he was assistant minister of the chapel, and we found +him extremely conversible and communicative. + +The chief differences between this new church and those which have +preceded it in the reform of the Roman Catholic religion, appears to +consist in the preservation of the external forms of worship, which +other reformers have rejected, and also of several dogmas, purely +doctrinal, and wholly unconnected with those principles of church +power and church discipline, the abuse of which was the immediate +cause of all protestant reform. + +They acknowledge the real presence. I find in the _Catéchisme_ these +questions and answers: + +"Jésus-Christ est-il sous le pain, ou bien sous le vin?--Il est sous +les deux espèces à la fois. + +"Et quand l'hostie est partagée?--Jésus-Christ est tout entier en +chaque partie. + +"Que faut-il faire pendant le jour où l'on a communié?--Assister aux +offices, et ensuite se réjouir de son bonheur avec ses parens et ses +amis." + + * * * * * + +Their clergy are permitted to marry. They deny that any power of +absolution rests with the priest, allowing him only that of +intercession by prayer for the forgiveness of the penitent. Auricular +confession is not enjoined, but recommended as useful to children. +They profess entire toleration to every variety of Christian belief; +but as the "Eglise Française" refuses to acknowledge dependance upon +any _secte étrangère_,--by which phrase I conceive the Church of Rome +to be meant,--they also declare, "d'après l'Evangile, que la religion +ne doit jamais intervenir dans les gouvernemens temporels." + +They recognise the seven sacraments, only modifying that of penitence, +as above mentioned. They deny the eternity of punishment, but I find +no mention of purgatory. They do not enjoin fasting. I find in the +_Catéchisme_ the following explanation of their doctrine on this head, +which appears to be extremely reasonable. + +"L'Eglise Française n'impose donc pas le jeûne et l'abstinence?--Non; +l'Eglise Apostolique Française s'en rapporte pour le jeûne aux fidèles +eux-mêmes, et ne reconnaît en aucune façon le précepte de +l'abstinence; mais, plus prudente dans ses principes, elle substitue à +un jeûne de quelques jours une sobriété continuelle, et remplace une +abstinence périodique par une tempérance de chaque jour, de chaque +année, de toute la vie." + +In all this there appears little in doctrine, excepting the admission +of the divine presence in the elements of the eucharist, that differs +greatly from most other reformed churches: nevertheless, the +ceremonies are entirely similar to those of the Roman Catholic +religion. + +But whatever there may be either of good or of evil in this mixture, +its effect must, I think, prove absolutely nugatory on society, from +the entire absence of any church government or discipline whatever. +That this is in fact the case, is thus plainly stated in the preface +to their published Catechism:-- + +"L'Eglise Apostolique Française ne reconnaît aucune hiérarchie; elle +repousse en conséquence l'autorité de tout pouvoir spirituel étranger, +et de tout autre pouvoir qui en dépend ou qui s'y soumet. Elle ne +reconnaît d'autre autorité spirituelle que celle qu'exercerait la +réunion de ses fidèles; réunion qui, suivant les principes des +apôtres, constitue seule ce que de leur temps on appelait EGLISE. + +"Elle n'est point salariée par l'état. L'administration de ses secours +spirituels est gratuite. Elle n'a de tarif, ni pour les baptêmes, ni +pour les mariages, ni enfin pour les inhumations. Elle vit de peu, et +s'en remet à la générosité, ou plutôt à la volonté, des fidèles. + +"Ne reconnaissant pas d'hiérarchie, elle ne reconnaît pas non plus de +division de territoire, soit en arrondissement, soit en paroisse: elle +accueille donc tous les Chrétiens qui se présentent à elle pour mander +à ses prêtres l'accomplissement des fonctions de ministres de +Jésus-Christ." + + * * * * * + +The _décousu_ principles of the day can hardly be carried farther than +this. A rope of sand is the only fitting emblem for a congregation so +constituted; and, like a rope of sand, it must of necessity fall +asunder, for there is no principle of union to prevent it. + +After I had finished my studies on the subject, I heard a sermon +preached in the church,--not, however, by M. l'Abbé Auzou, who was +ill, but by the same person with whom we had conversed at the +_Secrétariat_. His sermon was a strong exposition of the abuses +practised by the clergy of the Church of Rome,--a theme certainly more +fertile than new. + +In reading some of the most celebrated discourses of the Abbé Auzou, I +was the most struck with one entitled--"Discours sur les Plaisirs +Populaires, les Bals, et les Spectacles." The text is from St. +Matthew,--"Come unto me all ye that labour and are heavy laden, and I +will give you rest ... for my yoke is easy, and my burden is light." + +In this singular discourse, among some things that are reasonable, and +more that are plausible, it is impossible to avoid seeing a spirit of +lawless uncontrol, which seems to breathe more of revolution than of +piety. + +I am no advocate for a Judaical observance of the Sabbath, nor am I +ignorant of the fearful abuses which have arisen from man's daring to +arrogate to himself a power vested in God alone,--the power of +forgiving the sins of man. The undue authority assumed by the +sovereign pontiff of Rome is likewise sufficiently evident, as are +many other abuses justly reprobated in the sermons of the Abbé Auzou. +Nevertheless, education, observation, and I might say experience, have +taught me that religion requires and demands that care, protection, +and government which are so absolutely essential to the well-being of +every community of human beings who would unite together for one +general object. To talk of a self-governing church, is just as absurd +as to talk of a self-governing ship, or a self-governing family. + +It should seem, by the reprobation expressed against the severity of +the Roman Catholic clergy in these sermons, as well as from anecdotes +which I have occasionally heard in society, that the Church of Rome +and the Church of Calvin are alike hostile to every kind of +dissipation, and that at the present moment they have many points of +discipline in common--at least as respects the injunctions laid upon +their congregations respecting their private conduct. + +M. l'Abbé Auzou says, in speaking of revolutionary reforms,-- + +"Rien n'est changé dans le sacerdoce; et l'on peut dire aussi des +prêtres toujours romains, qu'ils n'ont rien oublié, qu'ils n'ont rien +appris. Cependant, sous le règne de Napoléon leur orgueil a fléchi +devant le grand intérêt de leur réinstallation.... Aussi, au retour de +leur roi légitime, cet orgueil comprimé s'est-il relevé dans toute sa +hauteur. Rome a placé son trône à côté de celui d'un roi, un peu +philosophe, a-t-on dit, mais perclus et impotent. Et enfin, lorsque +son successeur, d'abord accueilli par le peuple, est tombé entre les +mains des prêtres, ceux-ci, profitant de son âge et de sa faiblesse, +ont exploité les erreurs d'une jeunesse fougueuse, qui cependant lui +avaient valu le surnom de Chevalier Français. Alors nous avons vu ce +roi sacrifier sa popularité à leurs exigeances; appeler toute la +nation à l'expiation de ses fautes personnelles, à son repentir, à sa +pénitence; et la forcer à renier, pour ainsi dire, trente ans de +gloire et de liberté.... Un roi que le remords poursuit, dévore, et +qui ne reconnaît d'autre recours que dans le prêtre qui l'a soumis à +sa loi par la menace et la terreur de l'enfer; ce roi, sous le coup +d'une absolution conditionnelle et toujours suspendue, abdique, sans +le savoir, en faveur de son confesseur.... + +"Roi! tu languis dans l'exil, et tes fautes sont punies jusque dans +les dernières générations! + +"Les prêtres, les prêtres romains se sont cependant soumis à un +nouveau prince, à qui la souveraineté nationale a remis le sceptre; +ils prient enfin pour lui ... et l'on sait avec quelle sincérité. + +"Mais, peuple, comme leur joug s'appesantit sur toi!... Dans leur +fureur mal-déguisée ils le disent.... La maison du Seigneur est +déserte, et tu te rues avec fureur vers les plaisirs, les fêtes, les +bals et les spectacles! Anathême donc contre les plaisirs, les fêtes +et les bals! Anathême contre les spectacles! + +"Ne sont-ce point là, mes frères, les paroles qui tombent chaque jour +menaçantes de la chaire de l'Eglise Romaine?... + +"Combien notre langage sera différent! Le Dieu des Juifs est bien +notre Dieu; mais sa colère a été désarmée par le sacrifice que son +fils lui a offert pour notre rédemption. + +"Pourquoi ce sang répandu sur la croix pour nos péchés si la +satisfaction de nos besoins physiques, si nos fonctions +intellectuelles, si l'entrainement des passions qui constituent notre +être peuvent à chaque instant nous faire tomber dans le péché et nous +précipiter dans l'abîme? + +"Aussi nous vous disons dans notre chaire apostolique,--Exécutez les +commandemens de Dieu, adorez et glorifiez notre Père qui est aux +cieux, pratiquez la morale de l'Evangile, aimez votre prochain comme +vous-mêmes, et vous aurez accompli la loi de Jésus-Christ ... et nous +ajoutons,--Vous êtes membre de la société pour laquelle vous avez été +créés, et cette société vous impose des devoirs; en échange elle vous +procure des jouissances et des plaisirs: remplissez vos devoirs et +livrez-vous ensuite sans crainte aux jouissances et aux plaisirs +qu'elle vous présente. Votre participation à ces mêmes plaisirs, à ces +mêmes jouissances, est encore une partie de vos devoirs, et vous aurez +accompli encore une fois la loi de Jésus-Christ." + +This doctrine may assuredly entitle the Eglise Apostolique Française +to the appellation of a NEW CHURCH. + +M. l'Abbé Auzou goes on yet farther in the same strain:-- + +"Anathême!... Arme vieille, rouillée, émoussée, et que vous cherchez +en vain à retremper dans le fiel de la colère et de la vengeance!... +Anathême aux plaisirs! Et quoi! parceque Dieu a dit à notre premier +père, Vous mangerez votre pain à la sueur de votre visage, l'homme +serait condamné à rester toujours courbé sous le joug du travail? +N'aura-t-il à espérer aucun adoucissement à ses peines?... + +"Non, sans doute ... vous dira le clergé romain, puisque Dieu a +consacré le septième jour au repos? + +"Et quel est ce repos? + +"Sera-ce celui, qu'en vous servant du bras du séculier, vous avez +tenté de lui imposer par une ordonnance préscrivant de fermer tous les +établissemens qui décorent notre cité, nos cafés, nos restaurans, pour +ne tolérer que l'ouverture des officines du pharmacien?--ordonnance +dont une caricature spirituelle a fait si prompte justice." + +The following picture of a fanatical Sunday takes me back at once to +America. There, however, its worst effect was to steep the senses in +the unnecessary oblivion of a few more hours of sleep; but in Paris I +should really expect that such restraint, were it indeed possible to +impose it, would literally drive the sensitive and mobile population +to madness. + +"Et quel est donc ce repos? + +"Sera-ce l'immobilité des corps; l'abandon de toutes nos facultés; +l'oisiveté; l'ennui, compagnon inséparable de l'oisiveté; la prière; +la méditation,--la méditation plus pénible pour la plupart des hommes +que le travail des mains; et, enfin, vos sermons intolérans, et, qui +pis est peut-être, si ennuyeux? + +"Ah! imposer à l'homme un pareil repos ne serait que suspendre son +travail pour lui faire porter, comme à St. Simon de Cyrène, la croix +de Jésus-Christ jusqu'au sommet escarpé du Calvaire." + +The Abbé then proceeds to promulgate his bull for the permission of +all sorts of Parisian delights; nay, he takes a very pretty and +picturesque ramble into the country, where "les jeunes garçons et les +jeunes filles s'y livrent à des danses rustiques"--and, in short, +gives so animated a picture of the pleasures which ought to await the +Sabbath both in town and country, that it is almost impossible to read +it without feeling a wish that every human being who through the six +days of needful labour has been "weary worn with care" should pass the +seventh amid the bright and cheering scenes he describes. But he +effectually checks this feeling of sympathy with his views by what +follows. He describes habitual drunkenness with the disgust it merits; +but strangely qualifies this, by adding to his condemnation of the +"homme dégradé qui, oubliant chaque jour sa dignité dans les excès +d'une hideuse ivrognerie, _n'attend pas le jour que Dieu a consacré au +repos_, à la distraction, aux plaisirs, pour se livrer à son ignoble +passion," these dangerous words:-- + +"Mais condamnerons-nous sans retour notre frère pour un jour +d'intempérance passagère, et blamerons-nous celui qui, cherchant dans +le vin, ce présent du Ciel, un moment d'oubli des misères humaines, +n'a point su s'arrêter à cette douce ivresse, oublieuse des maux et +créatrice d'heureuses illusions?" + +Is not this using the spur where the rein is most wanting? I am +persuaded that it is not the intention of the Abbé Auzou to advocate +any species of immorality; but all the world, and particularly the +French world perhaps, is so well disposed to amuse itself _coûte qui +coûte_, that I confess I doubt the wisdom of enforcing the necessity +of so doing from the pulpit. + +The unwise, unauthorised, and most unchristian severity of the +Calvinistic and Romish priesthood may, I think, lawfully and +righteously be commented upon and reprobated both in the pulpit and +out of it; but this reprobation should not clothe itself in license, +or in any language that can be interpreted as such. There are many, I +should think, in every Christian land, both clergy and laity, but +neither popish nor Calvinistic, who would shrink both from the +sentiment and expression of the following passage:-- + +"Rappelons-nous que le patriarche Noé, lui qui planta la vigne et +exprima le jus de son fruit, en abusa une fois, et que Dieu ne lui en +fit point le reproche: Dieu punit, au contraire, le fils qui n'avait +point caché cette faiblesse d'un père." + +There is some worldly wisdom, however, in the exclamation he addresses +to his intolerant brethren. + +"Et vous, prêtres aveugles et impolitiques, laissez le peuple se +livrer à ses plaisirs innocens; faites en sorte qu'il se contente de +sa position; qu'il ne compare pas cette position pénible, douloureuse, +avec l'oisiveté dans laquelle vous vivez vous-mêmes, et que vous ne +devez qu'à la nouvelle dîme qui s'exprime de son front." + +He then proceeds to say, that it is not the poor only who are +subjected to this severity, but the rich also ... "que le prêtre de la +secte romaine veut arrêter, troubler dans ses plaisirs, dans ses +délassemens."... "Un repas par lequel on célèbre l'union de deux +jeunes coeurs, l'union de deux familles, et dans lequel règnent la +joie, _et peut-être aussi un peu plus que de la gaîté_, est l'objet de +la censure inexorable de ces prêtres rigides.... Ils oublient que +celui qu'ils disent être leur maître a consacré ces réunions par sa +présence, et que le vin ayant manqué par le trop grand usage qu'on en +avait fait, il n'en a pas moins changé l'eau en vin. Ils sont tous +disposés à répondre comme ce Janséniste à qui l'on rappelait cet +intéressant épisode de la vie de Jésus,--'Ce n'est pas ce qu'il a fait +de mieux.'--Impie! ... tu blasphêmes contre ton maître!... + +"Ah! mes frères, admirons, nous, dans la sincérité de notre coeur, +cet exemple de bienveillance et de _sociabilité pratique_, et +bénissons la bonté de Jésus." + +Then follows an earnest defence, or rather eulogy, of dancing. But +though I greatly approve the exercise for young people, and believe it +to be as innocent as it is natural, I would not, were I called upon to +preach a sermon, address my hearers after this manner:-- + +"Quant aux bals, je ne chercherai point à les excuser, à les défendre, +par _des exemples puisés dans l'écriture sainte_. Je ne vous +représenterai point David dansant devant l'arche.... Je ne vous le +donnerai pas non plus pour modèle, à vous, jeunes gens de notre France +_si polie_, _si élégante_, car sans doute _il dansait mal_; puisque, +suivant la Bible, Michal sa femme, voyant le roi David qui sautait et +dansait, se moqua de lui et le méprisa dans son coeur." There is +about as much piety as good taste in this. + +I have already given you such long extracts, that I must omit all he +says,--and it is much in favour of this amusement. Such forbearance +is the more necessary, as I must give you a passage or two more on +other subjects. Among the general reasons which he brings forward to +prove that fêtes and festivals are beneficial to the people, he very +justly remarks that the occupation they afford to industry is not the +least important, observing that the popish church takes no heed of +such things; and then adds, addressing the manufacturers,-- + +"Et lorsque le besoin se fera sentir et pour vous et vos enfans, allez +à l'Archevêché! ... à l'Archevêché! ... un jour la colère du peuple a +éclaté,-- + + "Je n'ai fait que passer, il n'était déjà plus."... + +The date which this sermon bears on its title-page is 1834; but the +event to which this line from Racine alludes was the destruction of +the archiepiscopal palace, which took place, if I mistake not, in +1831. If the "_il n'était déjà plus_" alludes to the palace, it is +correct enough, for destruction could not have done its work better: +but if it be meant to describe the fate of MONSEIGNEUR L'ARCHEVÊQUE DE +PARIS, the preacher is not a prophet; for, in truth, the sacrilegious +rout "n'a fait que passer," and MONSEIGNEUR has only risen higher from +the blow. Public orators of all kinds should be very cautious, in +these moveable times, how they venture to judge from to-day what may +be to-morrow. The only oracular sentence that can be uttered at +present with the least chance of success from the developement of the +future is, "Who can say what may happen next?" All who have sufficient +prudence to restrict their prescience to this acute form of prophecy, +may have the pleasure, let come what may, of turning to their +neighbours triumphantly with the question--"Did I not tell you that +something was going to happen?"--but it is dangerous to be one atom +more precise. Even before this letter can reach you, my friend, M. +l'Abbé's interpretation of "il n'était déjà plus" may be more correct +than mine. I say this, however, only to save my credit with you in +case of the worst; for my private opinion is, that Monseigneur was +never in a more prosperous condition in his life, and that, "as no one +can say what will happen next," I should not be at all astonished if a +cardinal's hat were speedily to reward him for all he has done and +suffered. + +I certainly intended to have given you a few specimens of the Abbé +Auzou's manner of advocating theatrical exhibitions; but I fear they +would lead me into too great length of citation. He is sometimes +really eloquent upon the subject: nevertheless, his opinions on it, +however reasonable, would have been delivered with better effect from +the easy-chair of his library than from the pulpit of his church. It +is not that what would be good when heard from the one could become +evil when listened to from the other: but the preacher's pulpit is +intended for other uses; and though the visits to a well-regulated +theatre may be as lawful as eating, and as innocent too, we go to the +house of God in the hope of hearing tidings more important than his +minister's assurance that they are so. + + + + +LETTER XXXIII. + + Establishment for Insane Patients at Vanves.--Description of + the arrangements.--Englishman.--His religious madness. + + +You will think perhaps that I have chosen oddly the object which has +induced me to make an excursion out of town, and obliged me to give up +nearly an entire day at Paris, when I tell you that it was to visit an +institution for the reception of the insane. There are, however, few +things which interest me more than an establishment of this nature; +especially when, as in the present instance, my manner of introduction +to it is such as to give me the hope of hearing the phenomena of these +awful maladies discussed by those well acquainted with them. The +establishment of MM. Voisin and Fabret, at Vanves, was mentioned to me +as one in which many improvements in the mode of treating alienation +of mind have been suggested and tried with excellent effect; and +having the opportunity of visiting it in company with a lady who was +well acquainted with the gentlemen presiding over it, I determined to +take advantage of it. My friend, too, knew how to direct my attention +to what was most interesting, from having had a relation placed there, +whom for many months she had been in the constant habit of visiting. + +Her introduction obtained for me the most attentive reception, and the +fullest explanation of their admirable system, which appears to me to +combine, and on a very large and noble scale, everything likely to +assuage the sufferings, soothe the spirits, and contribute to the +health of the patients. + +Vanves is situated at the distance of one league from Paris, in a +beautiful part of the country; and the establishment itself, from +almost every part of the high ground on which it is placed, commands +views so varied and extensive, as not only to render the principal +mansion a charming residence, but really to make the walks and drives +within the enclosure of the extensive premises delightful. + +The grounds are exceedingly well laid out, with careful attention to +the principal object for which they are arranged, but without +neglecting any of the beauty of which the spot is so capable. They +have shade and flowers, distant views and sheltered seats, with +pleasant walks, and even drives and rides, in all directions. The +enclosure contains about sixty acres, to every part of which the +patients who are well enough to walk about can be admitted with +perfect safety. + +In this park are situated two or three distinct lodges, which are +found occasionally to be of the greatest utility, in cases where the +most profound quiet is necessary, and yet where too strict confinement +would be injurious. Indeed, it appears to me that the object +principally kept in view throughout all the arrangements, is the power +of keeping patients out of sight and hearing of each other till they +are sufficiently advanced towards recovery to make it a real pleasure +and advantage to associate together. + +As soon as they reach this favourable stage of their convalescence, +they mix with the family in very handsome rooms, where books, music, +and a billiard-table assist them to pass the hours without _ennui_. +Every patient has a separate sleeping-apartment, in none of which are +the precautions necessary for their safety permitted to be visible. +What would wear the appearance of iron bars in every other place of +the kind that I have seen, are here made to look like very neat +_jalousies_. Not a bolt or a bar is perceptible, nor any object +whatever that might shock the spirit, if at any time a gleam of +recovered intellect should return to visit it. + +This cautious keeping out of sight of the sufferers everything that +might awaken them to a sense of their own condition, or that of the +other patients, appears to me to be the most peculiar feature of the +discipline, and is evidently one of the objects most sedulously kept +in view. Next to this I should place the system of inducing the male +patients to exercise their limbs, and amuse their spirits, by working +in the garden, at any undertaking, however _bizarre_ and profitless, +which can induce them to keep mind and body healthily employed. I know +not if this has been systematically resorted to elsewhere; but the +good sense of it is certainly very obvious, and the effect, as I was +told, is found to be very generally beneficial; though it occasionally +happens that some among them have fancied their dignity compromised by +using a spade or a hoe,--and then some of the family join with them in +the labour, to prove that it is merely a matter of amusement: in +short, everything likely to cheer or soothe the spirits seems brought +into use among them. + +The ground close adjoining to the house is divided into many small +well-enclosed gardens; the women's apartments opening to some, the +men's to others of them. In several of these gardens I observed neat +little tables, such as are used in the _restaurans_ of Paris, with a +clean cloth, and all necessary appointments, placed pleasantly and +commodiously in the shade, at each of which was seated one person, who +was served with a separate dinner, and with every appearance of +comfort. Had I not known their condition, I should in many instances +have thought the spectacle a very pleasing one. + +M. Voisin walked through all parts of the establishment with us, and +there appeared to exist a perfectly good understanding between him and +his patients. Among many regulations, which all appeared excellent, he +told me that the friends of his inmates were permitted at all times, +and under all circumstances, to visit them without any restraint +whatever: an arrangement which can only be productive of confidence +and advantage to all parties; as it is perfectly inconceivable that +any one who had felt obliged to place an unhappy friend or relative +under restraint should wish to interfere with the discipline necessary +for his ultimate advantage; whereas a contrary system is likely to +give occasion to constant doubts and fears on one hand, and to the +possibility of ill treatment or unnecessary restraint on the other. In +one of the courts appropriated to the use of such male patients as +were sufficiently convalescent to permit their associating together, +and amusing themselves with the different games in which they are +permitted to share, we saw a young Englishman, now rapidly recovering, +but who had scrawled over the walls of his own sleeping-apartment, +poor fellow! with a pencil, a vast quantity of writing, almost wholly +on religious subjects; proving but too plainly that he was one of the +many victims of fanaticism. Every thought seemed pregnant with suffering, +and sometimes bursts of agony were scrawled in trembling characters, +that spoke the very extremity of terror. "Who is there can endure fire +and flame for ever, for ever, and for ever?" "Death is before us--Hell +follows it!" "The bottomless pit--groans--tortures--anguish--for +ever!"... Such sentences as these were still legible, though much had +been obliterated. + +Who can wonder that a mind thus occupied should lose that fine balance +with which nature has arranged our faculties, making one keep watch +and ward over the other?... This poor fellow lost his wits under the +process of conversion: Judgment being entirely overthrown, Imagination +had vaulted into its seat, pregnant with visions black as night, +dark--oh! far darker than the tomb! "palled in the dunnest smoke of +hell," and armed with every image for the eternity of torture that the +ingenuity of man could devise. Who can wonder at his madness? And how +many crimes are there recorded in the Newgate Calendar which equal in +atrocity that of so distorting a mind, that sought to raise its humble +hopes towards heaven! + +I felt particularly interested for this poor lunatic, both as my +countryman, and the victim of by far the most fearful tyranny that man +can exercise on man. Against all other injury it is not difficult to +believe that a steadfast spirit can arm itself and say with Hamlet, + + "I do not set my life at a pin's fee." + +But against this, it were a vain boast to add, + + "And for my soul, what can it do to that, + Being a thing immortal as itself?" + +For, alas! it is that very immortality which gives hope, comfort, and +strength under every other persecution that paralyses the sufferer +under this, and arms with such horrid strength the blasphemous wretch +who teaches him to turn in terror from his God. + +M. Voisin told me that this unfortunate young man had been for some +time daily becoming more calm and tranquil, and that he entertained +not any doubt of his ultimate recovery. + +Excepting this my poor countryman, the only patient I saw whose +situation it was particularly painful to contemplate was a young girl +who had only arrived the preceding day. There was in her eyes a +restless, anxious, agitated manner of looking about on all things, and +gathering a distinct idea from none--a vague uncertainty as to where +she was, not felt with sufficient strength to amount to wonder, but +enough to rob her of all the feeling of repose which belongs to home. +Poor girl! perhaps some faltering, unfixable thought brought at +intervals the figure of her mother to her; for as I looked at her +pale face, its vacant expression received more than once a sad but +passing gleam of melancholy meaning. She coughed frequently; but the +cough seemed affected,--or rather, it appeared to be an effort not so +much required by her lungs, as by the need of some change, some +relief--she knew not what, nor where nor how to seek it. She appeared +very desirous of shaking off the attendance of a woman who was waiting +upon her, and her whole manner indicated a sort of fretful unrest that +it made one wretched to contemplate. But here again I was comforted by +the assurance that there were no symptoms which forbade hope of +recovery. + +I remember being told, when visiting the lunatic asylum near New York, +that the most frequent causes of insanity were ascertained to be +religion and drunkenness. Near Paris I find that love, high play, and +politics are considered as the principal causes of this calamity; and +certainly nothing can be more accordant with what observation would +teach one to expect than both these statements. At New York the +physician told me that madness arising from excessive drinking +admitted, in the great majority of cases, of a perfect cure; but that +religious aberration of intellect was much more enduring. + +At Paris I have heard the same; for here also it occasionally +happens, though not often, that the reason becomes disturbed by +repeated and frequent intoxication: but where either politics or love +has taken such hold of the mind as to disturb the reasoning power, the +recovery is less certain and more slow. + +Dr. Voisin told me that he uniformly found the first symptoms of +insanity appear in the wavering, indifferent, and altered state of the +affections towards relations and friends;--apathy, coldness, and, in +some cases, dislike, and even violent antipathy, being sure to appear, +wherever previous attachment had been the most remarkable. They +sometimes, but not very often, take capricious fits of fondness for +strangers; but never with any show of reason, and never for any length +of time. The most certain symptom of an approach towards recovery is +when the heart appears to be re-awakened to its natural feelings and +old attachments. + +There was one old lady that I watched eating her dinner of vegetables +and fruit at a little table in one of the gardens, who had adorned her +bonnet with innumerable scraps of trumpery, and set it on her head +with the most studied and coquettish air imaginable: she fed herself +with the grace or grimace of a young beauty, eating grapes of a guinea +a pound, from a plate of crystal, with a golden fork. I am sure she +was enjoying all the happiness of feeling herself beautiful, elegant, +and admired: and when I looked at the wrinkled ruin of her once handsome +face, I could hardly think her madness a misfortune; for though I did +not obtain any pitiful story concerning her, or any history of the +cause which brought her there, I felt sure that it must in some way or +other be connected with some feeling of deeply-mortified vanity: and +if I am right in my conjecture, what has the world left for her equal +in consolation to the wild fancies which now shed such simpering +complacency over her countenance? And might we not exclaim for her in +all kindness-- + + "Let but the cheat endure!--She asks not aught beside?" + +What was passing in this poor old head, it was easy enough to +guess--wild as it was, and wide from the truth. But there was another, +which, though I studied it as long as I could possibly contrive to do +so, wholly baffled me; and yet I would have given much to know what +thoughts were flitting through that young brain. + +She was a young girl, extremely pretty, with coal-black hair and eyes, +and seated, quite apart from all, upon a pleasant shady bench in one +of the gardens. Her face was like a fair landscape, over which passes +cloud and sunshine in rapid succession: for one moment she smiled, and +the next seemed preparing to weep; but before a tear could fall, her +fine teeth were again displayed in an unmeaning smile. O, what could +be the fleeting visions formed that worked her fancy thus? Could it be +memory? Or was the fitful emotion caused by the galloping vagaries of +an imagination which outstripped the power of reason to follow it? Or +was it none of this, but a mere meaningless movement of the muscles, +that worked in idle mockery of the intellect that used to govern them? + +I have sometimes thought it very strange that people should feel such +deep delight in watching on the stage the representation of the utmost +extremity of human woe that the mind of man can contrive to place +before them; and I have wondered more, much more, at the gathering +together of thousands and tens of thousands, whenever the law has +doomed that some wretched soul should be separated by the hand of man +from the body in which it has sinned: but I doubt if my own intense +interest in watching poor human nature when deprived of reason is not +stranger still. I can in no way account for it; but so it is. I can +never withdraw myself from the contemplation of a maniac without +reluctance; and yet I am always conscious of painful feelings as long +as it lasts, and perfectly sure that I shall be followed by more +painful feelings still when it is over. + +It is certain, however, that the comfort, the tenderness, the care, so +evident in every part of the establishment at Vanves, render the +contemplation of insanity there less painful than I ever found it +elsewhere; and when I saw the air of healthy physical enjoyment (at +least) with which a large number of the patients prepared to take +their pastime, during their hours of exercise, each according to his +taste or whim, amid the ample space and well-chosen accessories +prepared for them, I could not but wish that every retreat fitted up +for the reception of this unfortunate portion of the human race could +be arranged on the same plan and governed by the same principles. + + + + +LETTER XXXIV. + + Riot at the Porte St. Martin.--Prevented by a shower of + Rain.--The Mob in fine weather.--How to stop Emeutes.--Army + of Italy.--Théâtre Français.--Mademoiselle Mars in + Henriette.--Disappearance of Comedy. + + +Though Paris is really as quiet at present as any great city can +possibly be, still we continue to be told regularly every morning, +"qu'il y avait une émeute hier soir à la Porte St. Martin." But I do +assure you that these are very harmless little pastimes; and though it +seldom happens that the mysterious hour of revolution-hatching passes +by without some arrest taking place, the parties are always liberated +the next morning; it having appeared clearly at every examination that +the juvenile aggressors, who are seldom above twenty years of age, are +as harmless as a set of croaking bull-frogs on the banks of the +Wabash. The continually repeated mention, however, of these nightly +meetings, induced two gentlemen of our party to go to this often-named +Porte St. Martin a few nights ago, in hopes of witnessing the humours +of one of these small riotings. But on arriving at the spot they +found it perfectly tranquil--everything wore the proper stillness of +an orderly and well-protected night. A few military were, however, +hovering near the spot; and of these they made inquiry as to the cause +of a repose so unlike what was usually supposed to be the state of +this celebrated quarter of the town. + +"Mais ne voyez-vous pas que l'eau tombe, messieurs?" said the national +guard stationed there: "c'est bien assez pour refroidir le feu de nos +républicains. S'il fait beau demain soir, messieurs, nous aurons +encore notre petit spectacle." + +Determined to know whether there was any truth in these histories or +not, and half suspecting that the whole thing, as well as the +assurance of the civil _militaire_ to boot, was neither more nor less +than a hoax, they last night, the weather being remarkably fine, again +attempted the adventure, and with very different success. + +On this occasion, there was, by their description, as pretty a little +riot as heart could wish. The numbers assembled were stated to be +above four hundred: military, both horse and foot, were among them; +pointed hats were as plenty as blackberries in September, and "banners +waved without a blast" on the tottering shoulders of little +ragamuffins who had been hired for two sous apiece to carry them. + +On this memorable evening, which has really made a figure this morning +in some of the republican journals, a considerable number of the most +noisy portion of the mob were arrested; but, on the whole, the +military appear to have dealt very gently with them; and our friends +heard many a crazy burst of artisan eloquence, which might have easily +enough been construed into treason, answered with no rougher repartee +than a laughing "Vive le Roi!" + +At one point, however, there was a vehement struggle before a young +hero, equipped cap-à-pie à la Robespierre, could be secured; and while +two of the civic guard were employed in taking him, a little fellow of +about ten years old, who had a banner as heavy as himself on his +shoulder, and who was probably squire of the body to the prisoner, +stood on tiptoe before him at the distance of a few feet, roaring +"Vive la République!" as loud as he could bawl. + +Another fellow, apparently of the very lowest class, was engaged, +during the whole time that the tumult lasted, in haranguing a party +that he had collected round him. His arms were bare to the shoulders, +and his gesticulation exceedingly violent. + +"Nous avons des droits!" he exclaimed with great vehemence.... "Nous +avons des droits!... Qui est-ce qui veut les nier?... Nous ne +démandons que la charte.... Qu'ils nous donnent la charte!"... + +The uproar lasted about three hours, after which the crowd quietly +dispersed; and it is to be hoped that they may all employ themselves +honestly in their respective callings, till the next fine evening +shall again bring them together in the double capacity of actors and +spectators at the "petit spectacle." + +The constant repetition of this idle riot seems now to give little +disturbance to any one; and were it not that the fines and +imprisonments so constantly, and sometimes not very leniently +inflicted, evidently show that they are thought worth some attention, +(though, in fact, this system appears to produce no effect whatever +towards checking the daring demonstrations of disaffection manifested +by the rabble and their newspaper supporters,) one might deem this +indifference the result of such sober confidence of strength in the +government, as left them no anxiety whatever as to anything which this +troublesome faction could achieve. + +Such, I believe, is in fact the feeling of King Philippe's government: +nevertheless, it would certainly conduce greatly to the well-being of +the people of Paris, if such methods were resorted to as would +effectually and at once put a stop to such disgraceful scenes. + + [Illustration: Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu. + PORTE ST. MARTIN. + London, Published by Richard Bentley, 1835.] + +"LIBERTY AND ORDER" is King Philippe's motto: he could only improve it +by adding "Repose and Quiet;" for never can he reign by any other +power than that given by the hope of repose and tranquillity. The +harassed nation looks to him for these blessings; and if it be +disappointed, the result must be terrible. + +Louis-Philippe is neither Napoleon nor Charles the Tenth. He has +neither the inalienable rights of the one, nor the overpowering glory +of the other; but should he be happy enough to discover a way of +securing to this fine but strife-worn and weary country the tranquil +prosperity that it now appears beginning to enjoy, he may well be +considered by the French people as greater than either. + +Bold, fearless, wise, and strong must be the hand that at the present +hour can so wield the sceptre of France; and I think it may reasonably +be doubted if any one could so wield it, unless its first act were to +wave off to a safe distance some of the reckless spirits who are ready +to lay down their lives on the scaffold--or in a gutter--or over a pan +of charcoal, rather than "live peaceably in that state of life unto +which it has pleased God to call them." + +If King Louis-Philippe would undertake a crusade to restore +independence to Italy, he might convert every traitor into a hero. Let +him address the army raised for the purpose in the same inspiring +words that Napoleon used of yore. "Soldats!... Partons! Rétablir le +capitole.... Réveiller le peuple romain engourdi par plusieurs siècles +d'esclavage.... Tel sera le fruit de vos victoires. Vous rentrerez +alors dans vos foyers, et vos concitoyens diront en vous montrant--Il +était de l'armée d'Italie!" And then let him institute a new order, +entitled "L'Ordre Impérial de la Redingote grise," or "L'Ordre +indomptable des Bras croisés," and accord to every man the right of +admission to it, with the honour to boot of having an eagle +embroidered on the breast of his coat if he conducted himself +gallantly and like a Frenchman in the field of battle, and we should +soon find the Porte St. Martin as quiet as the Autocrat's +dressing-room at St. Petersburg. + +If such an expedient as this were resorted to, there would no longer +be any need of that indecent species of safety-valve by which the +noxious vapour generated by the ill-disposed part of the community is +now permitted to escape. It may be very great, dignified, and +high-minded for a king and his ministers to laugh at treasonable +caricatures and seditious pleasantries of all sorts,--but I do greatly +doubt the wisdom of it. Human respect is necessary for the maintenance +and support of human authority; and that respect will be more +profitably shown by a decent degree of general external deference, +than by the most sublime kindlings of individual admiration that ever +warmed the heart of a courtier. This "_avis au lecteur_" might be +listened to with advantage, perhaps, in more countries than one. + +Since I last gave you any theatrical news, we have been to see +Mademoiselle Mars play the part of Henriette in Molière's exquisite +comedy of "Les Femmes Savantes;" and I really think it the most +surprising exhibition I ever witnessed. Having seen her in "Tartuffe" +and "Charlotte Brown" from a box in the first circle, at some distance +from the stage, I imagined that the distance had a good deal to do +with the effect still produced by the grace of form, movement, and +toilet of this extraordinary woman. + +To ascertain, therefore, how much was delusion and how much was truth +in the beauty I still saw or fancied, I resolved upon the desperate +experiment of securing that seat in the balcony which is nearest to +the stage. It was from this place that I saw her play Henriette; a +character deriving no aid whatever from trick or stage effect of any +kind; one, too, whose charm lies wholly in simple, unaffected +youthfulness: there are no flashes of wit, no startling hits either of +pathos or pleasantry--nothing but youth, gentleness, modesty, and +tenderness--nothing but a young girl of sixteen, rather more quiet and +retiring than usual. Yet this character, which seems of necessity to +require youth and beauty in the performer, though little else, was +personated by this miraculous old lady in a manner that not only +enchanted me--being, as I am, _rococo_--but actually drew forth from +the omnipotent _jeunes gens_ in the _parterre_ such clamorous rapture +of applause as must, I think, have completely overset any actress less +used to it than herself. Is not this marvellous? + +How much it is to be regretted that the art of writing comedy has +passed away! They have vaudevilles here--charming things in their way; +and we have farces at home that certainly cannot be thought of without +enjoying the gratification of a broad grin. But for comedy, where the +intellect is called upon as well as the muscles, it is dead and gone. +The "Hunchback" is perhaps the nearest approach to it, whose birth I +remember in our country, and "Bertrand and Raton" here; but in both +cases the pleasurable excitement is produced more by the plot than the +characters--more by the business of the scene than by the wit and +elegance of the dialogue, except perhaps in the pretty wilfulness of +Julia in the second act of the "Hunchback." But even here I suspect it +was more the playful grace of the enchanting actress who first +appeared in the part, than anything in the words "set down for her," +which so delighted us. + +We do now and then get a new tragedy,--witness "Fazio" and "Rienzi;" +but Comedy--genuine, easy, graceful, flowing, talking Comedy--is dead: +I think she followed Sheridan to the grave and was buried with him! +But never is one so conscious of the loss, or so inclined to mourn it, +as after seeing a comedy of Molière's of the first order,--for his +pieces should be divided into classes, like diamonds. What a burst of +new enjoyment would rush over all England, or all France, if a thing +like "The School for Scandal" or "Les Femmes Savantes" were to appear +before them! + +Fancy the delight of sitting to hear wit--wit that one did not know by +rote, bright, sparkling, untasted as yet by any--new and fresh from +the living fountain!--not coming to one in the shape of coin, already +bearing the lawful stamp of ten thousand plaudits to prove it genuine, +and to refuse to accept which would be treason; but as native gold, to +which the touchstone of your own intellect must be applied to test its +worth! Shall we ever experience this? + +It is strange that the immense mass of material for comedy which the +passing scenes of this singular epoch furnish should not be worked up +by some one. Molière seems not to have suffered a single passing +folly to escape him. Had he lived in these days, what delicious whigs, +radicals, "penny-rint" kings, from our side of the water,--what tragic +poets, republicans, and parvenus from his own, would he have cheered +us withal! + +Rousseau says, that when a theatre produces pieces which represent the +real manners of the people, they must greatly assist those who are +present at them to see and amend what is vicious or absurd in +themselves, "comme on ôte devant un miroir les taches de son visage." +The idea is excellent; and surely there never was a time when it would +be so easy or so useful to put it in practice. Would the gods but send +a Sheridan to England and a Molière to France, we might yet live to +see some of our worst misfortunes turned to jest, and, like the man +choking in a quinsey, laugh ourselves into health again. + + + + +LETTER XXXV. + + Soirée dansante.--Young Ladies.--Old Ladies.--Anecdote.--The + Consolations of Chaperones.--Flirtations.--Discussion upon + the variations between young Married Women in France and in + England.--Making love by deputy.--Not likely to answer in + England. + + +Last night we were at a ball,--or rather, I should say, a "_soirée +dansante_;" for at this season, though people may dance from night to +morning, there are no balls. But let it be called by what name it may, +it could not have been more gay and agreeable were this the month of +January instead of May. + +There were several English gentlemen present, who, to the great +amusement of some of the company, uniformly selected their partners +from among the young ladies. This may appear very natural to you; but +here it is thought the most unnatural proceeding possible. + +To a novice in French society, there is certainly no circumstance so +remarkable as the different position which the unmarried hold in the +drawing-rooms of England and _les salons_ of France. With us, the +prettiest things to look at, and the partners first sought for the +dance, are the young girls. Brilliant in the perfection of their +youthful bloom, graceful and gay as young fawns in every movement of +the most essentially juvenile of all exercises, and eclipsing the +light elegance of their own toilet by loveliness that leaves no eyes +to study its decoration,--it is they who, in spite of diamonds and of +blonde, of wedded beauty or of titled grace, ever appear to be the +principal actors in a ball-room. But "they manage these matters" quite +otherwise "in France." + +Unfortunately, it may sometimes happen among us, that a coquettish +matron may be seen to lead the giddy waltz with more sprightliness +than wisdom; but she always does it at the risk of being _mal notée_ +in some way or other, more or less gravely, by almost every person +present;--nay, I would by no means encourage her to be very certain +that her tonish partner himself would not be better pleased to whirl +round the mazy circle with one of the slight, light, sylph-like +creatures he sees flying past him, than with the most fashionable +married woman in London. + +But in Paris all this is totally reversed; and, what is strange +enough, you will find in both countries that the reason assigned for +the difference between them arises from national attention to good +morals. + +On entering a French ball-room, instead of seeing the youngest and +loveliest part of the company occupying the most conspicuous places, +surrounded by the gayest men, and dressed with the most studied and +becoming elegance, you must look for the young things quite in the +background, soberly and quietly attired, and almost wholly eclipsed +behind the more fully-blown beauties of their married friends. + +It is really marvellous, considering how very much prettier a girl is +at eighteen than she can possibly be some dozen years afterwards, to +see how completely fashion will nevertheless have its own way, making +the worse positively appear the better beauty. + +All that exceeding charm and fascination which is for ever and always +attributed to an elegant Frenchwoman, belongs wholly, solely, and +altogether to her after she becomes a wife. A young French girl, +"_parfaitement bien élevée_," looks ... "_parfaitement bien élevée_;" +but it must be confessed, also, that she looks at the same time as if +her governess (and a sharp one) were looking over her shoulder. She +will be dressed, of course, with the nicest precision and most exact +propriety; her corsets will forbid a wrinkle to appear in her robe, +and her _friseur_ deny permission to any single hair that might wish +to deviate from the station appointed for it by his stiff control. But +if you would see that graceful perfection of the toilet, that +unrivalled _agacerie_ of costume which distinguishes a French woman +from all others in the world, you must turn from mademoiselle to +madame. The very sound of the voice, too, is different. It should seem +as if the heart and soul of a French girl were asleep, or at least +dozing, till the ceremony of marriage awakened them. As long as it is +mademoiselle who speaks, there is something monotonous, dull, and +uninteresting in the tone, or rather in the tune, of her voice; but +when madame addresses you, all the charm that manner, cadence, accent +can bestow, is sure to greet you. + +In England, on the contrary, of all the charms peculiar to youthful +loveliness, I know none so remarkable as the unconstrained, fresh, +natural, sweet, and joyous sound of a young girl's voice. It is as +delicious as the note of the lark, when rising in the first freshness +of morning to meet the sun. It is not restrained, held in, and checked +into tameness by any fear lest it should too early show its syren +power. + +Even in the dance itself, the very arena for the display of youthful +gracefulness, the young French girl fails, when her well-taught steps +are compared with the easy, careless, fascinating movements of the +married woman. + +In the simple kindness of manner too, which, if there were no other +attraction, would ever suffice to render an unaffected, good-natured +young girl charming, there must be here a cautious restraint. A +_demoiselle Française_ would be prevented by _bienséance_ from showing +it, were she the gentlest-hearted creature breathing. + +A young Englishman of my acquaintance, who, though he had been a good +deal in French society, was not initiated into the mysteries of female +education, recounted to me the other day an adventure of his, which is +german to the matter, though not having much to do with our last +night's ball. This young man had for a long time been very kindly +received in a French family, had repeatedly dined with them, and, in +fact, considered himself as admitted to their house on the footing of +an intimate friend. + +The only child of this family was a daughter, rather pretty, but cold, +silent, and repulsive in manner--almost awkward, and utterly +uninteresting. Every attempt to draw her into conversation had ever +proved abortive; and though often in her company, the Englishman +hardly thought she could consider him as an acquaintance. + +The young man returned to England; but, after some months, again +revisited Paris. While standing one day in earnest contemplation of a +picture at the Louvre, he was startled at being suddenly addressed by +an extremely beautiful woman, who in the kindest and most friendly +manner imaginable asked him a multitude of questions--made a thousand +inquiries after his health--invited him earnestly to come and see her, +and concluded by exclaiming--"Mais c'est un siècle depuis que je vous +ai vu." + +My friend stood gazing at her with equal admiration and surprise. He +began to remember that he had seen her before, but when or where he +knew not. She saw his embarrassment and smiled. "Vous m'avez oublié +donc?" said she. "Je m'appelle Eglé de P----.... Mais je suis +mariée...." + +But to return to our ball. + +As I saw the married women taken out to dance one after the another, +till at last there was not a single dancing-looking man left, I felt +myself getting positively angry; for, notwithstanding the assistance +given by my ignorant countrymen, there were still at least half a +dozen French girls unprovided with chevaliers. + +They did not, however, look by many degrees so sadly disappointed as +English girls would do did the same misfortune betide them. They, like +the poor eels, were used to it; and the gentlemen, too, were cruelly +used to the task of torture,--making their pretty little feet beat +time upon the floor, while they watched the happy wedded in pairs--not +wedded pairs--swim before their eyes in mazes which they would most +gladly have threaded after them. + +When at length all the married ladies, young and old, were duly +provided for, several staid and very respectable-looking gentlemen +emerged from corners and sofas, and presenting themselves to the young +expectants, were accepted with quiet, grateful smiles, and permitted +to lead them to the dance. + +Old ladies like myself, whose fate attaches them to the walls of a +ball-room, are accustomed to find their consolation and amusement from +various sources. First, they enjoy such conversation as they can +catch; or, if they will sit tolerably silent, they may often hear the +prettiest airs of the season exceedingly well played. Then the whole +arena of twinkling feet is open to their criticism and admiration. +Another consolation, and frequently a very substantial one, is found +in the supper;--nay, sometimes a passing ice will be caught to cheer +the weary watcher. But there is another species of amusement, the +general avowal of which might lead the younger part of the civilized +world to wish that old ladies wore blinkers: I allude to the quiet +contemplation of half a dozen sly flirtations that may be going on +around them,--some so well managed! ... some so clumsily! + +But upon all these occasions, in England, though well-behaved old +ladies will always take especial care not so to see that their seeing +shall be seen, they still look about them with no feeling of +restraint--no consciousness that they would rather be anywhere else +than spectators of what is going forward near them. They feel, at +least I am sure I do, a very comfortable assurance that the fair one +is engaged, not in marring, but in making her fortune. Here again I +may quote the often-quoted, and say, "They manage all these matters +differently at least, if not better, in France." + +In England, if a woman is seen going through all the manoeuvres of +the flirting exercise, from the first animating reception of the "How +d'ye do?" to the last soft consciousness which fixes the eyes +immovably on the floor, while the head, gently inclined, seems willing +to indulge the happy ear in receiving intoxicating draughts of +_parfait amour_,--when this is seen in England, even should the lady +be past eighteen, one feels assured that she is not married; but here, +without scandal or the shadow of scandal be it spoken, one feels +equally well assured that she is. She may be a widow--or she may flirt +in the innocence of her heart, because it is the fashion; but she +cannot do it, because she is a young lady intending to be married. + +I was deeply engaged in these speculations last night, when an elderly +lady--who for some reason or other, not very easy to divine, actually +never waltzes--came across the room and placed herself by my side. +Though she does not waltz, she is a very charming person; and as I had +often conversed with her before, I now welcomed her approach with +great pleasure. + +"A quoi pensez-vous, Madame Trollope?" said she: "vous avez l'air de +méditer." + +I deliberated for a moment whether I should venture to tell her +exactly what was passing in my mind; but as I deliberated, I looked at +her, and there was that in her countenance which assured me I should +have no severity to fear if I put her wholly in my confidence: I +therefore replied very frankly,-- + +"I am meditating; and it is on the position which unmarried women hold +in France." + +"Unmarried women?... You will scarcely find any such in France," said +she. + +"Are not those young ladies who have just finished their quadrille +unmarried?" + +"Ah!... But you cannot call them unmarried women. _Elles sont des +demoiselles._" + +"Well, then, my meditations were concerning them." + +"Eh bien...." + +"Eh bien.... It appears to me that the ball is not given--that the +music does not play--that the gentlemen are not _empressé_, for them." + +"No, certainly. It would be quite contrary to our ideas of what is +right if it were so." + +"With us it is so different!... It is always the young ladies who are, +at least, the ostensible heroines of every ball-room." + +"The ostensible heroines?"... She dwelt rather strongly upon the +adjective, adding with a smile,--"Our ostensible, are our real +heroines upon these occasions." + +I explained. "The real heroines," said I, "will, I confess, in cases +of ostentation and display, be sometimes the ladies who give balls in +return." + +"Well explained," said she, laughing: "I certainly thought you had +another meaning. You think, then," she continued, "that our young +married women are made of too much importance among us?" + +"Oh no!" I replied eagerly: "it is, in my opinion, almost impossible +to make them of too much importance; for I believe that it is entirely +upon their influence that the tone of society depends." + +"You are quite right. It is impossible for those who have lived as +long as we have in the world to doubt it: but how can this be, if, +upon the occasions which bring people together, they are to be +overlooked, while young girls who have as yet no position fixed are +brought forward instead?" + +"But surely, being brought forward to dance in a waltz or quadrille, +is not the sort of consequence which we either of us mean?" + +"Perhaps not; but it is one of its necessary results. Our women marry +young,--as soon, in fact, as their education is finished, and before +they have been permitted to enter the world, or share in the pleasures +of it. Their destiny, therefore, instead of being the brightest that +any women enjoy, would be the most _triste_, were they forbidden to +enter into the amusements so natural to their age and national +character, because they were married." + +"But may there not be danger in the custom which throws young females, +thus early and irrevocably engaged, for the first time into the +society, and, as it were, upon the attentions of men whom it has +already become their duty not to consider as too amiable?" + +"Oh no!... If a young woman be well-disposed, it is not a quadrille, +or a waltz either, that will lead her astray. If it could, it would +surely be the duty of all the legislators of the earth to forbid the +exercise for ever." + +"No, no, no!" said I earnestly; "I mean nothing of the kind, I assure +you: on the contrary, I am so convinced, from the recollections of my +own feelings, and my observations on those of others, that dancing is +not a fictitious, but a real, natural source of enjoyment, the +inclination for which is inherent in us, that, instead of wishing it +to be forbidden, I would, had I the power, make it infinitely more +general and of more frequent occurrence than it is: young people +should never meet each other without the power of dancing if they +wished it." + +"And from this animating pleasure, for which you confess that there is +a sort of _besoin_ within us, you would exclude all the young women +above seventeen--because they are married?... Poor things!... Instead +of finding them so willing as they generally are to enter on the busy +scenes of life, I think we should have great difficulty in getting +their permission to _monter un ménage_ for them. Marriage would be +soon held in abhorrence if such were its laws." + +"I would not have them such, I assure you," replied I, rather at a +loss how to explain myself fully without saying something that might +either be construed into coarseness of thinking and a cruel +misdoubting of innocence, or else into a very uncivil attack upon the +national manners: I was therefore silent. + +My companion seemed to expect that I should proceed, but after a short +interval resumed the conversation by saying,--"Then what arrangement +would you propose, to reconcile the necessity of dancing with the +propriety of keeping married women out of the danger which you seem to +imagine might arise from it?" + +"It would be too national were I to reply, that I think our mode of +proceeding in this case is exactly what it ought to be." + +"But such is your opinion?" + +"To speak sincerely, I believe it is." + +"Will you then have the kindness to explain to me the difference in +this respect between France and England?" + +"The only difference between us which I mean to advocate is, that with +us the amusement which throws young people together under +circumstances the most likely, perhaps, to elicit expressions of +gallantry and admiration from the men, and a gracious reception of +them from the women, is considered as befitting the single rather than +the married part of the community." + +"With us, indeed, it is exactly the reverse," replied she,--"at least +as respects the young ladies. By addressing the idle, unmeaning +gallantry inspired by the dance to a young girl, we should deem the +cautious delicacy of restraint in which she is enshrined transgressed +and broken in upon. A young girl should be given to her husband +before her passions have been awakened or her imagination excited by +the voice of gallantry." + +"But when she is given to him, do you think this process more +desirable than before?" + +"Certainly it is not desirable; but it is infinitely less dangerous. +When a girl is first married, her feelings, her thoughts, her +imagination are wholly occupied by her husband. Her mode of education +has ensured this; and afterwards, it is at the choice of her husband +whether he will secure and retain her young heart for himself. If he +does this, it is not a waltz or quadrille that will rob him of it. In +no country have husbands so little reason to complain of their wives +as in France; for in no country does the manner in which they live +with them depend so wholly on themselves. With you, if your novels, +and even the strange trials made public to all the world by your +newspapers, may be trusted, the very reverse is the case. Previous +attachments--early affection broken off before the marriage, to be +renewed after it--these are the histories we hear and read; and most +assuredly they do not tempt us to adopt your system as an amendment +upon our own." + +"The very notoriety of the cases to which you allude proves their rare +occurrence," replied I. "Such sad histories would have but little +interest for the public, either as tales or trials, if they did not +relate circumstances marked and apart from ordinary life." + +"Assuredly. But you will allow also that, however rare they may be in +England, such records of scandal and of shame are rarer still in +France?" + +"Occurrences of the kind do not perhaps produce so much sensation +here," said I. + +"Because they are more common, you would say. Is not that your +meaning?" and she smiled reproachfully. + +"It certainly was not my meaning to say so," I replied; "and, in +truth, it is neither a useful nor a gracious occupation to examine on +which side the Channel the greater proportion of virtue may be found; +though it is possible some good might be done on both, were the +education in each country to be modified by the introduction of what +is best in the other." + +"I have no doubt of it," said she; "and as we go on exchanging +fashions so amicably, who knows but we may live to see your young +ladies shut up a little more, while their mothers and fathers look out +for a suitable marriage for them, instead of inflicting the awkward +task upon themselves? And in return, perhaps, our young wives may lay +aside their little coquetries and become _mères respectables_ +somewhat earlier than they do now. But, in truth, they all come to it +at last." + +As she finished speaking these words, a new waltz sounded, and again a +dozen couples, some ill, some well matched, swam past us. One of the +pairs was composed of a very fine-looking young man, with blue-black +_favoris_ and _moustaches_, tall as a tower, and seeming, if air and +expression may be trusted, very tolerably well pleased with himself. +His _danseuse_ might unquestionably have addressed her husband, who +sat at no great distance from us, drawing up his gouty feet under his +chair to let her pass, in these touching words:-- + + "Full thirty times hath Phoebus' cart gone round + Neptune's salt wash and Tellus' orbed ground, + And thirty dozen moons, with borrow'd sheen, + About the world have times twelve thirties been, + Since Love our hearts and Hymen did our hands + Unite commutual in most sacred bands." + +My neighbour and I looked up and exchanged glances as they went by. We +both laughed. + +"At least you will allow," said she, "that this is one of the cases in +which a married lady may indulge her passion for the dance without +danger of consequences?" + +"I am not quite sure of that," replied I. "If she be not found guilty +of sin, she will scarcely obtain a verdict that shall acquit her of +folly. But what can induce that magnificent personage, who looks down +upon her as if engaged in measuring the distance between them--what +could induce him to request the honour of enclosing her venerable +waist in his arm?" + +"Nothing more easily explained. That little fair girl sitting in +yonder corner, with her hair so tightly drawn off her forehead, is her +daughter--her only daughter, and will have a noble _dot_. Now you +understand it?... And tell me, in case his speculation should not +succeed, is it not better that this excellent lady, who waltzes so +very like a duck, should receive all the eloquence with which he will +seek to render himself amiable, upon her time-steeled heart, than that +the delicate little girl herself should have to listen to it?" + +"And you really would recommend us to adopt this mode of love-making +by deputy, letting the mamma be the substitute, till the young lady +has obtained a brevet to listen to the language of love in her own +person? However excellent the scheme may be, dear lady, it is vain to +hope that we shall ever be able to introduce it among us. The young +ladies, I suspect, would exclaim, as you do here, when explaining why +you cannot permit any English innovations among you, "Ce n'est pas +dans nos moeurs." + + * * * * * + +I assure you, my friend, that I have not composed this conversation _à +loisir_ for your amusement, for I have set down as nearly as possible +what was said to me, though I have not quite given it all to you; but +my letter is already long enough. + + + + +LETTER XXXVI. + + Improvements of Paris.--Introduction of Carpets and + Trottoirs.--Maisonnettes.--Not likely to answer in + Paris.--The necessity of a Porter and Porter's + Lodge.--Comparative Expenses of France and + England.--Increasing Wealth of the Bourgeoisie. + + +Among the many recent improvements in Paris which evidently owe their +origin to England, those which strike the eye first, are the almost +universal introduction of carpets within doors, and the frequent +blessing of a _trottoir_ without. In a few years, unless all +paving-stones should be torn up in search of more immortality, there +can be no doubt that it will be almost as easy to walk in Paris as in +London. It is true that the old streets are not quite wide enough to +admit such enormous esplanades on each side as Regent and Oxford +Streets; but all that is necessary to safety and comfort may be +obtained with less expense of space; and to those who knew Paris a +dozen years ago, when one had to hop from stone to stone in the fond +hope of escaping wet shoes in the Dog-days--tormented too during the +whole of this anxious process with the terror of being run over by +carts, fiacres, concous, cabs, and wheelbarrows;--whoever remembers +what it was to walk in Paris then, will bless with an humble and +grateful spirit the dear little pavement which, with the exception of +necessary intervals to admit of an approach to the portes-cochère of +the various _hôtels_, and a few short intervals beside, which appear +to have been passed over and forgotten, borders most of the principal +streets of Paris now. + +Another English innovation, infinitely more important in all ways, has +been attempted, and has failed. This was the endeavour to introduce +_maisonnettes_, or small houses calculated for the occupation of one +family. A few such have been built in that new part of the town which +stretches away in all directions behind the Madeleine; but they are +not found to answer--and that for many reasons which I should have +thought it very easy to foresee, and which I suspect it would be very +difficult to obviate. + +In order to come at all within reach of the generality of French +incomes, they must be built on too small a scale to have any good +rooms; and this is a luxury, and permits a species of display, to +which many are accustomed who live in unfurnished apartments, for +which they give perhaps fifteen hundred or two thousand francs a year. +Another accommodation which habit has made it extremely difficult for +French families to dispense with, and which can be enjoyed at an easy +price only by sharing it with many, is a porter and a porter's lodge. +Active as is the race of domestic servants in Paris, their number +must, I think, be doubled in many families, were the arrangement of +the porter's lodge to be changed for our system of having a servant +summoned every time a parcel, a message, a letter, or a visit arrives +at the house. + +Nor does the taking charge of these by any means comprise the whole +duty of this servant of many masters; neither am I at all competent to +say exactly what does: but it seems to me that the answer I generally +receive upon desiring that anything may be done is, "Oui, madame, le +portier ou la portière fera cela;" and were we suddenly deprived of +these factotums, I suspect that we should be immediately obliged to +leave our apartments and take refuge in an hôtel, for I should be +quite at a loss to know what or how many additional "helps" would be +necessary to enable us to exist without them. + +That the whole style and manner of domestic existence throughout all +the middling classes of such a city as Paris should hang upon their +porters' lodges, seems tracing great effects to little causes; but I +have been so repeatedly told that the failure of the _maisonnettes_ +has in a great degree arisen from this, that I cannot doubt it. + +I know not whether anything which prevents their so completely +changing their mode of life as they must do if living in separate +houses, is to be considered as an evil or not. The Parisians are a +very agreeable, and apparently a very happy population; and who can +say what effect the quiet, steady, orderly mode of each man having a +small house of his own might produce? What is admirable as a component +part of one character, is often incongruous and disagreeable when met +in another; and I am by no means certain if the snug little mansion +which might be procured for the same rent as a handsome apartment, +would not tend to circumscribe and tame down the light spirits that +now send _locataires_ of threescore springing to their elegant +_premier_ by two stairs at a time. And the prettiest and best +_chaussés_ little feet in the world too, which now trip _sans souci_ +over the common stair, would they not lag painfully perhaps in passing +through a low-browed hall, whose neatness or unneatness had become a +private and individual concern? And might not many a bright fancy be +damped while calculating how much it would cost to have a few statues +and oleanders in it?--and the head set aching by meditating how to get +"ce vilain escalier frotté" from top to bottom? Yet all these, and +many other cares which they now escape, must fall upon them if they +give up their apartments for _maisonnettes_. + +The fact, I believe, is, that French fortunes, taken at the average at +which they at present stand, could not suffice to procure the pretty +elegance to which the middle classes are accustomed, unless it were +done by the sacrifice of some portion of that costly fastidiousness +which English people of the same rank seem to cling to as part of +their prerogative. + +Though I am by no means prepared to say that I should like to exchange +my long-confirmed habit of living in a house of my own for the +Parisian mode of inhabiting apartments, I cannot but allow that by +this and sundry other arrangements a French income is made to +contribute infinitely more to the enjoyment of its possessor than an +English one. + +Let any English person take the trouble of calculating, let their +revenue be great or small, how much of it is expended in what +immediately contributes to their personal comfort and luxury, and how +much of it is devoted to the support of expenses which in point of +fact add to neither, and the truth of this statement will become +evident. + +Rousseau says, that "cela se fait," and "cela ne se fait pas," are the +words which regulate everything that goes on within the walls of +Paris. That the same words have at least equal power in London, can +hardly be denied; and, unfortunately for our individual independence, +obedience to them costs infinitely more on our side of the water than +it does on this. Hundreds are annually spent, out of very confined +incomes, to support expenses which have nothing whatever to do with +the personal enjoyment of those who so tax themselves; but it must be +submitted to, because "cela se fait," or "cela ne se fait pas." In +Paris, on the contrary, this imperative phrase has comparatively no +influence on the expenditure of any revenue, because every one's +object is not to make it appear that he is as rich as his neighbour, +but to make his means, be they great or small, contribute as much as +possible to the enjoyment and embellishment of his existence. + +It is for this reason that a residence in Paris is found so favourable +an expedient in cases of diminished or insufficient fortune. A family +coming hither in the hope of obtaining the mere necessaries of life at +a much cheaper rate than in England would be greatly disappointed: +some articles are cheaper, but many are considerably dearer; and, in +truth, I doubt if at the present moment anything that can be strictly +denominated a necessary of life is to be found cheaper in Paris than +in London. + +It is not the necessaries, but the luxuries of life that are cheaper +here. Wine, ornamental furniture, the keep of horses, the price of +carriages, the entrance to theatres, wax-lights, fruit, books, the +rent of handsome apartments, the wages of men-servants, are all +greatly cheaper, and direct taxes greatly less. But even this is not +the chief reason why a residence in Paris may be found economical to +persons of any pretension to rank or style at home. The necessity for +parade, so much the most costly of all the appendages to rank, may +here be greatly dispensed with, and that without any degradation +whatever. In short, the advantage of living in Paris as a matter of +economy depends entirely upon the degree of luxury to be obtained. +There are certainly many points of delicacy and refinement in the +English manner of living which I should be very sorry to see given up +as national peculiarities; but I think we should gain much in many +ways could we learn to hang our consequence less upon the comparison +of what others do. We shudder at the cruel madness of the tyrant who +would force every form to reach one standard; but those are hardly +less mad who insist that every one, to live _comme il faut_, must +live, or appear to live, exactly as others do, though the means of +doing so may vary among the silly set so prescribed to, from an income +that may justify any extravagance to one that can honestly supply +none. + +This is a folly of incalculably rarer occurrence here than in England; +and it certainly is no proof of the good sense of our "most thinking +people," that for one private family brought to ruin by extravagance +in France, there are fifty who suffer from this cause in England. + +It is easy to perceive that our great wealth has been the cause of +this. The general scale of expense has been set so high, that +thousands who have lived in reference to that, rather than to their +individual fortunes, have been ruined by the blunder; and I really +know no remedy so likely to cure the evil as a residence in Paris; +not, however, so much as a means of saving money, as of making a +series of experiments which may teach them how to make the best and +most enjoyable use of it. + +I am persuaded, that if it were to become as much the fashion to +imitate the French independence of mind in our style of living, as it +now is to copy them in ragoûts, bonnets, moustaches, and or-molu, we +should greatly increase our stock of real genuine enjoyment. If no +English lady should ever again feel a pang at her heart because she +saw more tall footmen in her neighbour's hall than in her own--if no +sighs were breathed in secret in any club-house or at any sale, +because Jack Somebody's stud was a cut above us--if no bills were run +up at Gunter's, or at Howell and James's, because it was worse than +death to be outdone,--we should unquestionably be a happier and a +more respectable people than we are at present. + +It is, I believe, pretty generally acknowledged by all parties, that +the citizens of France have become a more money-getting generation +since the last revolution than they ever were before it. The security +and repose which the new dynasty seems to have brought with it, have +already given them time and opportunity to multiply their capital; and +the consequence is, that the shop-keeping propensities with which +Napoleon used to reproach us have crossed the Channel, and are +beginning to produce very considerable alterations here. + +It is evident that the wealth of the _bourgeoisie_ is rapidly +increasing, and their consequence with it; so rapidly, indeed, that +the republicans are taking fright at it,--they see before them a new +enemy, and begin to talk of the abominations of an aristocratic +_bourgeoisie_. + +There is, in fact, no circumstance in the whole aspect of the country +more striking or more favourable than this new and powerful impulse +given to trade. It is the best ballast that the vessel of the state +can have; and if they can but contrive that nothing shall happen to +occasion its being thrown overboard, it may suffice to keep her +steady, whatever winds may blow. + +The wide-spreading effect of this increasing wealth among the +_bourgeoisie_ is visible in many ways, but in none more than in the +rapid increase of handsome dwellings, which are springing up, as white +and bright as new-born mushrooms, in the north-western division of +Paris. This is quite a new world, and reminds me of the early days of +Russell Square, and all the region about it. The Church of the +Madeleine, instead of being, as I formerly remember it, nearly at the +extremity of Paris, has now a new city behind it; and if things go on +at the same rate at which they seem to be advancing at present, we +shall see it, or at least our children will, occupying as central a +position as St. Martin's-in-the-Fields. An excellent market, called +Marché de la Madeleine, has already found its way to this new town; +and I doubt not that churches, theatres, and restaurans innumerable +will speedily follow. + +The capital which is now going so merrily on, increasing with almost +American rapidity, will soon ask to be invested; and when this +happens, Paris will be seen running out of town with the same active +pace that London has done before her; and twenty years hence the Bois +de Boulogne may very likely be as thickly peopled as the Regent's Park +is now. + +This sudden accession of wealth has already become the cause of a +great increase in the price of almost every article sold in Paris; +and if this activity of commerce continue, it is more than probable, +that the hitherto moderate fortunes of the Parisian _boursier_ and +merchant will grow into something resembling the colossal capitals of +England, and we shall find that the same causes which have hitherto +made England dear will in future prevent France from being cheap. It +will then happen, that many deficiencies which are now perceptible, +and which furnish the most remarkable points of difference between the +two countries, will disappear; great wealth being in many instances +all that is required to make a French family live very much like an +English one. Whether they will not, when this time arrives, lose on +the side of unostentatious enjoyment more than they will gain by +increased splendour, may, I think, be very doubtful. For my own part, +I am decidedly of opinion, that as soon as heavy ceremonious dinners +shall systematically take place of the present easy, unexpensive style +of visiting, Paris will be more than half spoiled, and the English may +make up their minds to remain proudly and pompously at home, lest, +instead of a light and lively contrast to their own ways, they may +chance to find a heavy but successful rivalry. + + + + +LETTER XXXVII. + + Horrible Murder.--La Morgue.--Suicides.--Vanity.--Anecdote. + --Influence of Modern Literature.--Different appearance of + Poverty in France and England. + + +We have been made positively sick and miserable by the details of a +murder, which seems to show that we live in a world where there are +creatures ten thousand times more savage than any beast that ranges +the forest, + + "Be it ounce, or cat, or bear, + Pard, or boar with bristled hair." + +This horror was perpetrated on the person of a wretched female, who +appeared, by the mangled remains which were found in the river, to +have been very young. But though thus much was discovered, it was many +days ere, among the thousands who flocked to the Morgue to look at the +severed head and mangled limbs, any one could be found to recognise +the features. At length, however, the person with whom she had lodged +came to see if she could trace any resemblance between her lost +inmate and these wretched relics of a human being. + +She so far succeeded as to convince herself of the identity; though +her means of judging appeared to be so little satisfactory, that few +placed any reliance upon her testimony. Nevertheless, she at length +succeeded in having a man taken up, who had lived on intimate terms +with the poor creature whose sudden disappearance had induced this +woman to visit the Morgue when the description of this mangled body +reached her. He immediately confessed the deed, in the spirit, though +not in the words, of the poet:-- + + "Mourons: de tant d'horreurs qu'un trépas me délivre! + Est-ce un malheur si grand que de cesser de vivre? + + * * * * * + + Je ne crains pas le nom que je laisse après moi." + +The peculiarly horrid manner in which the crime was committed, and the +audacious style in which the criminal appears to brave justice, will, +it is thought, prevent any _extenuating circumstances_ being pleaded, +as is usually done, for the purpose of commuting the punishment of +death into imprisonment with enforced labour. It is generally expected +that this atrocious murderer will be guillotined, notwithstanding the +averseness of the government to capital punishment. + +The circumstances are, indeed, hideous in all ways, and the more so +from being mixed up with what is miscalled the tender passion. The +cannibal fury which sets a man to kill his foe that he may eat him, +has fully as much tenderness in it as this species of affection. + +When "the passion is made up of nothing but the finest parts of love," +it may, perhaps, deserve the epithet of tender; but we have heard of +late of so many horrible and deliberate assassinations, originating in +what newspapers are pleased to call "_une grande passion_" that the +first idea which a love-story now suggests to me is, that the sequel +will in all probability be murder "most foul, strange, and unnatural!" + +Is there in any language a word that can raise so many shuddering +sensations as "_La Morgue_?" Hatred, revenge, murder, are each +terrible; but La Morgue outdoes them all in its power of bringing +together in one syllable the abstract of whatever is most appalling in +crime, poverty, despair, and death. + +To the ghastly Morgue are conveyed the unowned dead of every +description that are discovered in or near Paris. The Seine is the +great receptacle which first receives the victims of assassination or +despair; but they are not long permitted to elude the vigilance of the +Parisian police: a huge net, stretched across the river at St. Cloud, +receives and retains whatever the stream brings down; and anything +that retains a trace of human form which is found amidst the product +of the fearful draught is daily conveyed to La Morgue;--DAILY; for +rarely does it chance that for four-and-twenty hours its melancholy +biers remain unoccupied; often do eight, ten, a dozen corpses at a +time arrive by the frightful caravan from "_les filets de St. Cloud_." + +I have, in common with most people, I believe, a very strong +propensity within me for seeing everything connected directly or +indirectly with any subject or event which has strongly roused my +curiosity, or interested my feelings; but, strange to say, I never +feel its influence so irresistible as when something of shuddering +horror is mixed with the spectacle. It is this propensity which has +now induced me to visit this citadel of death;--this low and solitary +roof, placed in the very centre of moving, living, laughing Paris. + +No visit to a tomb, however solemn or however sad, can approach in +thrilling horror to the sensation caused by passing the threshold of +this charnel-house. + +The tomb calls us to the contemplation of the common, the inevitable +lot; but this gathering place of sin and death arouses thoughts of all +that most outrages nature, and most foully violates the sanctuary of +life, into which God has breathed his spirit. But I was steadfast in +my will to visit it, and I have done it. + +The building is a low, square, carefully-whited structure, situated on +the Quai de la Cité. It is open to all; and it is fearful to think how +many anxious hearts have entered, how many despairing ones have +quitted it. + +On entering I found myself in a sort of low hall which contained no +object whatever. If I mistake not, there is a chamber on each side of +it: but it was to the left hand that I was led, and it was thither +that about a dozen persons who entered at the same time either +followed or preceded me. I do not too well remember how I reached the +place where the bodies are visible; but I know that I stood before one +of three large windows, through the panes of which, and very near to +them, lighted also by windows in the roof, are seen a range of biers, +sloping towards the spectator at an angle that gives the countenance +as well as the whole figure of the persons extended on them fully to +view. + +In this manner I saw the bodies of four men stretched out before me; +but their aspect bore no resemblance to death--neither were they +swollen or distorted in any way, but so discoloured as to give them +exactly the appearance of bronze statues. + +Two out of the four had evidently been murdered, for their heads and +throats gave frightful evidence of the violence that had been +practised upon them; the third was a mere boy, who probably met his +fate by accident: but that the fourth was a suicide, it was hardly +possible to doubt; even in death his features held the desperate +expression that might best paint the state of mind likely to lead to +such an act. + +It was past mid-day when we entered the Morgue; but neither of the +bodies had yet been claimed or recognised. + +This spectacle naturally set me upon seeking information, wherever I +was likely to find it, respecting the average number of bodies thus +exposed within the year, the proportion of them believed to be +suicides, and the causes generally supposed most influential in +producing this dreadful termination. + +I will not venture to repeat the result of these inquiries in figures, +as I doubt if the information I received was of that strictly accurate +kind which could justify my doing so; yet it was quite enough so, to +excite both horror and astonishment at the extraordinary number which +are calculated to perish annually at Paris by self-slaughter. + +In many recent instances, the causes which have led to these desperate +deeds have been ascertained by the written acknowledgment of the +perpetrators themselves, left as a legacy to mankind. Such a legacy +might perhaps not be wholly unprofitable to the survivors, were it not +that the motives assigned, in almost every instance where they have +been published, have been of so frivolous and contemptible a nature as +to turn wholesome horror to most ill-placed mirth. + +It can hardly be doubted, from the testimony of these singular +documents, that many young Frenchmen perish yearly in this guilty and +deplorable manner for no other reason in the world than the hope of +being talked of afterwards. + +Had some solitary instance of so perverted a vanity been found among +these records, it might perhaps have been considered as no more +incredible than various other proofs of the enfeebling effects of this +paltry passion on the judgment, and have been set down to insanity, +produced by excessive egotism: but nothing short of the posthumous +testimony of the persons themselves could induce any one to believe +that scarcely a week passes without such an event, from such a cause, +taking place in Paris. + +In many instances, I am told that the good sense of surviving friends +has led them to disobey the testamentary instructions left by the +infatuated young men who have thus acted, requesting that the wretched +reasonings which have led them to it should be published. But, in a +multitude of cases, the "Constitutionnel" and other journals of the +same stamp have their columns filled with reasons why these poor +reckless creatures have dared the distant justice of their Creator, in +the hope that their unmeaning names should be echoed through Paris for +a day. + +It is not long since two young men--mere youths--entered a +_restaurant_, and bespoke a dinner of unusual luxury and expense, and +afterwards arrived punctually at the appointed hour to eat it. They +did so, apparently with all the zest of youthful appetite and youthful +glee. They called for champagne, and quaffed it hand in hand. No +symptom of sadness, thought, or reflection of any kind was observed to +mix with their mirth, which was loud, long, and unremitting. At last +came the _café noir_, the cognac, and the bill: one of them was seen +to point out the amount to the other, and then both burst out afresh +into violent laughter. Having swallowed each his cup of coffee to the +dregs, the _garçon_ was ordered to request the company of the +_restaurateur_ for a few minutes. He came immediately, expecting +perhaps to receive his bill, minus some extra charge which the jocund +but economical youths might deem exorbitant. + +Instead of this, however, the elder of the two informed him that the +dinner had been excellent, which was the more fortunate as it was +decidedly the last that either of them should ever eat: that for his +bill, he must of necessity excuse the payment of it, as in fact they +neither of them possessed a single sous: that upon no other occasion +would they thus have violated the customary etiquette between guest +and landlord; but that finding this world, its toils and its troubles, +unworthy of them, they had determined once more to enjoy a repast of +which their poverty must for ever prevent the repetition, and +then--take leave of existence for ever! For the first part of this +resolution, he declared that it had, thanks to his cook and his +cellar, been achieved nobly; and for the last, it would soon +follow--for the _café noir_, besides the little glass of his admirable +cognac, had been medicated with that which would speedily settle all +their accounts for them. + +The _restaurateur_ was enraged. He believed no part of the +rhodomontade but that which declared their inability to discharge the +bill, and he talked loudly, in his turn, of putting them into the +hands of the police. At length, however, upon their offering to give +him their address, he was persuaded to let them depart. + +On the following day, either the hope of obtaining his money, or some +vague fear that they might have been in earnest in the wild tale that +they had told him, induced this man to go to the address they had left +with him; and he there heard that the two unhappy boys had been that +morning found lying together hand in hand, on a bed hired a few weeks +before by one of them. When they were discovered, they were already +dead and quite cold. + +On a small table in the room lay many written papers, all expressing +aspirations after greatness that should cost neither labour nor care, +a profound contempt for those who were satisfied to live by the sweat +of their brow--sundry quotations from Victor Hugo, and a request that +their names and the manner of their death might be transmitted to the +newspapers. + +Many are the cases recorded of young men, calling themselves dear +friends, who have thus encouraged each other to make their final exit +from life, if not with applause, at least with effect. And more +numerous still are the tales recounted of young men and women found +dead, and locked in each other's arms; fulfilling literally, and with +most sad seriousness, the destiny sketched so merrily in the old +song:-- + + Gai, gai, marions-nous-- + Mettons-nous dans la misère; + Gai, gai, marions-nous-- + Mettons-nous la corde au cou. + +I have heard it remarked by several individuals among those who are +watching with no unphilosophical eyes many ominous features of the +present time and the present race, or rather perhaps of that portion +of the population which stand apart from the rest in dissolute +idleness, that the worst of all its threatening indications is the +reckless, hard indifference, and gladiator-like contempt of death, +which is nurtured, taught, and lauded as at once the foundation and +perfection of all human wisdom and of all human virtue. + +In place of the firmness derived from hope and resignation, these +unhappy sophists seek courage in desperation, and consolation in +notoriety. With this key to the philosophy of the day, it is not +difficult to read its influence on many a countenance that one meets +among those who are lounging in listless laziness on the Boulevards or +in the gardens of Paris. + +The aspect of these figures is altogether unlike what we may too often +see among those who linger, sunken, pale, and hopeless, on the benches +of our parks, or loiter under porticos and colonnades, as if waiting +for courage to beg. Hunger and intemperance often leave blended traces +on such figures as these, exciting at once pity and disgust. I have +encountered at Paris nothing like this: whether any such exist, I know +not; but if they do, their beat is distant from the public walks and +fashionable promenades. Instead of these, however, there is a race who +seem to live there, less wretched perhaps in actual want of bread, but +as evidently thriftless, homeless, and friendless as the other. On the +faces of such, one may read a state of mind wholly different,--less +degraded, but still more perverted;--a wild, bold eye, that rather +seeks than turns from every passing glance--unshrinking hardihood, but +founded more on indifference than endurance, and a scornful sneer for +any who may suffer curiosity to conquer disgust, while they fix their +eye for a moment upon a figure that looks in all ways as if got up to +enact the hero of a melodrame. Were I the king, or the minister +either, I should think it right to keep an eye of watchfulness upon +all such picturesque individuals; for one might say most truly, + + "Yon Cassius hath a lean and hungry look; + He thinks too much: such men are dangerous." + +The friend to whom I addressed myself on the subject of these +constantly-recurring suicides told me that there was great reason to +believe that the increase of this crime, so remarkable during the last +few years, might be almost wholly attributed to the "light +literature," as it is called, of the period:--dark literature would be +a fitter name for it. + +The total absence of anything approaching to a virtuous principle of +action in every fictitious character held up to admiration throughout +all the tales and dramas of the _décousu_ school, while every hint of +religion is banished as if it were treason to allude to it, is in +truth quite enough to account for every species of depravity in those +who make such characters their study and their model. "How oft and by +how many shall they be laughed to scorn!"--yet believing all the +while, poor souls! that they are producing a sensation, and that the +eyes of Europe are fixed upon them, notwithstanding they once worked +as a tailor or a tinker, or at some other such unpoetical handiwork; +for they may all be described in the words of Ecclesiasticus, with a +very slight alteration,--"They would maintain the state of the world, +and all their desire is in (forgetting) the work of their craft." + + + + +LETTER XXXVIII. + + Opéra Comique.--"Cheval de Bronze."--"La + Marquise."--Impossibility of playing Tragedy.--Mrs. Siddons's + Readings.--Mademoiselle Mars has equal power.--_Laisser + aller_ of the Female Performers.--Decline of Theatrical Taste + among the Fashionable. + + +The "Cheval de Bronze" being the _spectacle par excellence_ at the +Opéra Comique this season, we have considered it a matter of +sight-seeing necessity to pay it a visit; and we have all agreed that +it is as perfectly beautiful in its scenery and decorations as the +size of the theatre would permit. We gazed upon it, indeed, with a +perfection of contentment, which, in secret committee afterwards, we +confessed did not say much in favour of our intellectual faculties. + +I really know not how it is that one can sit, not only without +murmuring, but with positive satisfaction, for three hours together, +with no other occupation than looking at a collection of gewgaw +objects, with a most unmeaning crowd, made for the most part by +Nature's journeymen, incessantly undulating among them. Yet so it is, +that a skilful arrangement of blue and white gauze, aided by the magic +of many-coloured lights, decidedly the prettiest of all modern toys, +made us exclaim at every fresh manoeuvre of the carpenter, +"Beautiful! beautiful!" with as much delight as ever a child of five +years old displayed at a first-rate exhibition of Punch. + +M. Auber's music has some pretty things in it; but he has done much +better in days of yore; and the wretched taste exhibited by all the +principal singers made me heartily wish that the well-appointed +orchestra had kept the whole performance to themselves. + +Madame Casimir has had, and indeed still has, a rich and powerful +voice: but the meanest peasant-girl in Germany, who trims her vines to +the sound of her native airs, might give her a lesson on taste more +valuable than all that science has ever taught her. + +I should like, could I do so with a conscience that should not +reproach me with exaggeration, to name Miss Stephens and Madame +Casimir as fair national specimens of English and French singing. And +in fact they are so; though I confess that the over-dressing of Madame +Casimir's airs is almost as much out of the common way here, as the +chaste simplicity of our native syren's strains is with us: yet the +one is essentially English, and the other French. + +We were told that the manager of our London theatres had been in Paris +for the purpose of seeing and taking a cast from this fine Chinese +butterfly. If this be so, Mr. Bunn will find great advantage from the +extent of his theatre: that of the Opéra Comique is scarcely of +sufficient magnitude to exhibit its gaudy but graceful _tableaux_ to +advantage. But, on the other hand, I doubt if he will find any actress +quite so _piquante_ as the pretty Madame ----, in the last act, when +she relates to the enchanted princess, her mistress, the failure she +had made in attempting by her _agaceries_ to retain the young female +who had ventured into the magic region: and if he did, I doubt still +more if her performance would be received with equal applause. + +A _petite comédie_ called "La Marquise" preceded this brilliant +trifle. The fable must, I think, be taken, though greatly changed, +from a story of George Sand. It has perhaps little in it worth talking +about; but it is a fair specimen of one of that most agreeable of +French nationalities, a natural, easy, playful little piece, at which +you may sit and laugh in sympathy with the performers as much as with +the characters, till you forget that there are such things as sorrow +and sadness in the world. + +The acting in this style is so very good, that the author's task +really seems to be the least important part of the business. It is +not at one theatre, but at all, that we have witnessed this +extraordinary excellence in the performance of this species of drama; +but I doubt if the chasm which seems to surround the tragic muse, +keeping her apart on a pedestal sacred to recollections, be at all +wider or more profound in England than in France. In truth, it is less +impassible with us than it is here; for though I will allow that our +tragic actresses may be no better than those of France, seeing that a +woman's will in the one case, and the Atlantic Ocean in the other, +have robbed us of Mrs. Bartley and the Fanny--who between them might +bring our stage back to all its former glory,--still they have neither +Charles Kemble nor Macready to stand in the place that Talma has left +vacant. + +I have indeed no doubt whatever that Mademoiselle Mars could read +Corneille and Racine as effectively as Mrs. Siddons read Shakspeare in +the days of Argyle-street luxury, and, like our great maga, give to +every part a power that it never had before. I well remember coming +home from one of Mrs. Siddons's readings with a passionate desire to +see her act the part of Hamlet; and from another, quite persuaded that +by some means the witch-scene in Macbeth should be so arranged that +she should speak every word of it. + +In like manner, were I to hear Mars read Corneille, I should insist +upon it that she ought to play the Cid; and if Racine, Oreste would +probably be the first part I should choose for her. But as even she, +with all her Garrick-like versatility, would not be able to perform +every part of every play, tragedy must be permitted to repose for the +present in France as well as in England. + +During this interregnum, it is well for them, considering how dearly +they love to amuse themselves, that they have a stock of comedians, +old, young, and middle-aged, that they need not fear should fail; for +the whole French nation seem gifted with a talent that might enable +them to supply, at an hour's warning, any deficiencies in the company. + +I seldom return from an exhibition of this sort without endeavouring +in some degree to analyse the charm that has enchanted me: but in most +cases this is too light, too subtile, to permit itself to be caught by +so matter-of-fact a process. I protest to you, that I am often half +ashamed of the pleasure I receive from ... I know not what. A playful +smile, a speaking glance, a comic tone, a pretty gesture, give effect +to words that have often nothing in them more witty or more wise than +may often be met with (especially here) in ordinary conversation. But +the whole thing is so thoroughly understood, from the "_père noble_" +to the scene-shifter--so perfect in its getting-up--the piece so +admirably suited to the players, and the players to the piece,--that +whatever there is to admire and enjoy, comes to you with no drawbacks +from blunders or awkwardness of any kind. + +That the composition of these happy trifles cannot be a work of any +great labour or difficulty, may be reasonably inferred from the +ceaseless succession of novelties which every theatre and every season +produces. The process, for this lively and ready-witted people, must +be pleasant enough--they must catch from what passes before them; no +difficult task, perhaps--some _piquante_ situation or ludicrous +_bévue_: the slightest thread is strong enough to hold together the +light materials of the plot; and then must follow the christening of a +needful proportion of male and female, old and young, enchanting and +ridiculous personages. The list of these once set down, and the order +of scenes which are to bring forth the plot arranged, I can fancy the +author perfectly enjoying himself as he puts into the mouth of each +character all the saucy impertinences upon every subject that his +imagination, skilful enough in such matters, can suggest. When to this +is added an occasional touch of natural feeling, and a little popular +high-mindedness in any line, the _petite comédie_ is ready for the +stage. + +It is certainly a very light manufacture, and depends perhaps more +upon the fearless _laisser aller_ of both author and actor than upon +the brilliancy of wit which it displays. That old-fashioned blushing +grace too, so much in favour with King Solomon, and called in +scripture phrase shamefacedness, is sacrificed rather too unmercifully +by the female part of the performers, in the fear, as it should seem, +of impairing the spirit and vivacity of the scene by any scruple of +any kind. But I suspect these ladies miscalculate the respective value +of opposing graces; Mademoiselle Mars may show them that delicacy and +vivacity are not inseparable; and though I confess that it would be a +little unreasonable to expect all the female vaudevillists of Paris to +be like Mars, I cannot but think that, in a city where her mode of +playing comedy has for so many years been declared perfect, it must be +unnecessary to seek the power of attraction from what is so utterly at +variance with it. + +The performance of comedy is often assisted here by a freedom among +the actors which I have sometimes, but not often, seen permitted in +London. It requires for its success, and indeed for its endurance, +that the audience should be perfectly in good-humour, and sympathise +very cordially with the business of the scene. I allude to the part +which the performers sometimes take not only in the acting, but in +the enjoyment of it. I never in my life saw people more heartily +amused, or disposed more unceremoniously to show it, than the actors +in the "Précieuses Ridicules," which I saw played a few nights ago at +the Français. On this occasion I think the spirit of the performance +was certainly heightened by this license, and for this reason--the +scene represents a group in which one party must of necessity be +exceedingly amused by the success of the mystification which they are +practising on the other. But I own that I have sometimes felt a little +_English stiffness_ at perceiving an air of frolic and fun upon the +stage, which seemed fully as much got up for the performers as for the +audience. But though the instance I have named of this occurred at the +Théâtre Français, it is not there that it is likely to be carried to +any offensive extent. The lesser theatres would in many instances do +well to copy closely the etiquette and decorum of all kinds which the +great national theatre exhibits: but perhaps it is hardly fair to +expect this; and besides, we might be told, justly enough, to _look at +home_. + +The theatres, particularly the minor ones, appear to be still very +well attended: but I constantly hear the same observations made in +Paris as in London upon the decline of theatrical taste among the +higher orders; and it arises, I think, from the same cause in both +countries,--namely, the late dinner-hour, which renders the going to a +play a matter of general family arrangement, and often of general +family difficulty. The opera, which is later, is always full; and were +it not that I have lived too long in the world to be surprised at +anything that the power of fashion could effect, I should certainly be +astonished that so lively a people as the French should throng night +after night as they do to witness the exceeding dulness of this heavy +spectacle. + +The only people I have yet seen enjoying their theatres rationally, +without abstaining from what they liked because it was unfashionable, +or enduring what they did not, because it was the _mode_, are the +Germans. Their genuine and universal love of music makes their +delicious opera almost a necessary of life to them; and they must, I +think, absolutely change their nature before they will suffer the +silly conventional elegance supposed by some to attach to the act of +eating their dinner late, to interfere with their enjoyment of it. + +I used to think the theatre as dear to the French as music to the +Germans. But what is a taste in France is, from the firmer fibre of +the national character, a passion in Germany;--and it is easier to +abandon a taste than to control a passion. + +Perhaps, however, in England and France too, if some new-born +theatrical talent of the first class were to "flame in the forehead of +the morning sky," both Paris and London would submit to the +degradation of dining at five o'clock in order to enjoy it: but late +hours and indifferent performances, together, have gone far towards +placing the stage among the popular rather than the fashionable +amusements of either. + + + + +LETTER XXXIX. + + The Abbé de Lamennais.--Cobbett.--O'Connell.--Napoleon.-- + Robespierre. + + +I had last night the satisfaction of meeting the Abbé de Lamennais at +a _soirée_. It was at the house of Madame Benjamin Constant; whose +_salon_ is as celebrated for the talent of every kind to be met there, +as for the delightful talents and amiable qualities of its mistress. + +In general appearance, this celebrated man recalls an original drawing +that I remember to have seen of Rousseau. He is greatly below the +ordinary height, and extremely small in his proportions. His +countenance is very striking, and singularly indicative of habitual +meditation; but the deep-set eye has something very nearly approaching +to wildness in its rapid glance. His dress was black, but had +certainly more of republican negligence than priestly dignity in it; +and the little, tight, chequered cravat which encircled his slender +throat, gave him decidedly the appearance of a person who heeded not +either the fashion of the day, or the ordinary costume of the +_salon_. + +He, in company with four or five other distinguished men, had dined +with Madame Constant; and we found him deep sunk in a _bergère_ that +almost concealed his diminutive person, surrounded by a knot of +gentlemen, with whom he was conversing with great eagerness and +animation. On one side of him was M. Jouy, the well-known "_Hermite_" +of the Chaussée d'Antin; and on the other, a deputy well known on the +benches of the _côté gauche_. + +I was placed immediately opposite to him, and have seldom watched the +play of a more animated countenance. In the course of the evening, he +was brought up and introduced to me. His manners are extremely +gentlemanlike; no stiffness or reserve, either rustic or priestly, +interfering with their easy vivacity. He immediately drew a chair +_vis-à-vis_ to the sofa on which I was placed, and continued thus, +with his back turned to the rest of the company, conversing very +agreeably, till so many persons collected round him, many of whom were +ladies, that not feeling pleased, I suppose, to sit while they stood, +he bowed off, and retreated again to his _bergère_. + +He told me that he must not remain long in Paris, where he was too +much in society to do anything; that he should speedily retreat to +the profound seclusion of his native Brittany, and there finish the +work upon which he was engaged. Whether this work be the defence of +the _prévenus d'Avril_, which he has threatened to fulminate in a +printed form at the head of those who refused to let him plead for +them in court, I know not; but this document, whenever it appears, is +expected to be violent, powerful, and eloquent. + +The writings of the Abbé de Lamennais remind me strongly of those of +Cobbett,--not, certainly, from their matter, nor even from the manner +of treating it, but from the sort of effect which they produce upon +the mind. Had the pen of either of them been wholly devoted to the +support of a good cause, their writings would have been invaluable to +society; for they both have shown a singular power of carrying the +attention, and almost the judgment, of the reader along with them, +even when writing on subjects on which he and they were perfectly at +issue. + +Were there not circumstances in the literary history of both which +contradict the notion, I should say that this species of power or +charm in their writings arose from their being themselves very much in +earnest in the opinions they were advocating: but as the Abbé de +Lamennais and the late Mr. Cobbett have both shown that their faith in +their own opinions was not strong enough to prevent them from changing +them, the peculiar force of their eloquence can hardly be referred to +the sincerity of it. + +I remember hearing a lively young barrister declare that he would +rather argue against his own judgment than according to it; and I am +sure he spoke in all sincerity,--much as he would have done had he +said that he preferred shooting wild game to slaughtering tame +chickens: the difficulty made the pleasure. But we cannot presume to +suppose that either of the two persons whose names I have so +incongruously brought together have written and argued on the same +principle; and even if it were so, they have not the less changed +their minds,--unless we suppose that they have amused themselves and +the public, by sometimes arguing for what they believed to be truth, +and sometimes only to show their skill. + +As to what Mr. Cobbett's principles might really have been, I think it +is a question that must ever remain in uncertainty,--unless we adopt +that easiest and most intelligible conclusion, that he had none at +all. But it is far otherwise with M. de Lamennais: it is impossible to +doubt that in his early writings he was perfectly sincere; there is a +warmth of faith in them that could proceed from no fictitious fire. +Nor is it easily to be imagined that he would have thrown himself from +the height at which he stood in the opinion of all whom he most +esteemed, had he not fancied that he saw truth at the bottom of that +abyss of heresy and schism into which all good Catholics think that he +has thrown himself. + +The wild republicanism which M. de Lamennais has picked up in his +descent is, however, what has probably injured him most in the general +estimation. Some few years ago, liberal principles were advocated by +many of the most able as well as the most honest men in Europe; but +the unreasonable excesses into which the ultras of the party have +fallen seem to have made the respectable portion of mankind draw back +from it, and, whatever their speculative opinions may be, they now +show themselves anxious to rally round all that bears the stamp of +order and lawful authority. + +It would be difficult to imagine a worse time for a man to commence +republican and free-thinker than the present;--unless, indeed, he did +so in the hope that the loaves and fishes were, or would be, at the +disposition of that party. Putting, however, all hope of being paid +for it aside, the period is singularly unpropitious for such a +conversion. As long as their doctrine remained a theory only, it might +easily delude many who had more imagination than judgment, or more +ignorance than either: but so much deplorable mischief has arisen +before our eyes every time the theory has been brought to the test of +practice, that I believe the sound-minded in every land consider +their speculations at present with as little respect as they would +those of a joint-stock company proposing to colonize the moon. + +That the Abbé de Lamennais is no longer considered in France as the +pre-eminent man he has been, is most certain; and as it is easy to +trace in his works a regular progression downwards, from the dignified +and enthusiastic Catholic priest to the puzzled sceptic and factious +demagogue, I should not be greatly surprised to hear that he, who has +been spoken of at Rome as likely to become a cardinal, was carrying a +scarlet flag through the streets of Paris, with a conical hat and a +Robespierre waistcoat, singing "_Ça ira_" louder than he ever chanted +a mass. + +M. de Lamennais, in common with several other persons of republican +principles with whom I have conversed since I have been in Paris, has +conceived the idea that England is at this moment actually and _bonâ +fide_ under the rule, dictation, and government of Mr. Daniel +O'Connell. He named him in an accent of the most profound admiration +and respect, and referred to the English newspapers as evidence of the +enthusiastic love and veneration in which he was held throughout Great +Britain! + +I waxed wroth, I confess; but I took wisdom and patience, and said +very meekly, that he had probably seen only that portion of the +English papers which were of Mr. Daniel's faction, and that I believed +Great Britain was still under the dominion of King William the Fourth, +his Lords and Commons. It is not many days since I met another +politician of the same school who went farther still; for he gravely +wished me joy of the prospect of emancipation which the virtue of the +great O'Connell held out to my country. On this occasion, being in a +gay mood, I laughed heartily, and did so with a safe conscience, +having no need to set the enlightened propagandist right; this being +done for me, much better than I could have done it myself, by a +hard-headed doctrinaire who was with me. + +"O'Connell is the Napoleon of England," said the republican. + +"Not of England, at any rate," replied the doctrinaire. "And if he +must have a name borrowed from France, let it be Robespierre's: let +him be called magnificently the Robespierre of Ireland." + +"He has already been the redeemer of Ireland," rejoined the republican +gravely; "and now _he has taken England under his protection_." + +"And I suspect that ere long England will take him under hers," said +my friend, laughing. "Hitherto it appears as if the country had not +thought him worth whipping; ... mais si un chien est méchant, si même +ce ne serait qu'un vilain petit hargneux, il devrait être lié, ou +bien pendu." + +Having finished this oracular sentence, the doctrinaire took a long +pinch of snuff, and began discoursing of other matters: and I too +withdrew from the discussion, persuaded that I could not bring it to a +better conclusion. + + + + +LETTER XL. + + Which Party is it ranks second in the estimation of all?--No + Caricatures against the Exiles.--Horror of a Republic. + + +I have been taking some pains to discover, by the aid of all the signs +and tokens of public feeling within my reach, who among the different +parties into which this country is divided enjoys the highest degree +of general consideration. + +We know that if every man in a town were desired to say who among its +inhabitants he should consider as fittest to hold an employment of +honour and profit, each would probably answer, "Myself:" we know also, +that should it happen, after the avowal of this very natural +partiality, that the name of the second best were asked for, and that +the man named as such by one were so named by all, this second best +would be accounted by the disinterested lookers-on as decidedly the +right and proper person to fill the station. According to this rule, +the right and proper government for France is neither republican, nor +military, nor doctrinaire, but that of a legitimate and constitutional +monarchy. + +When men hold office, bringing both power and wealth, consideration +will of necessity follow. That the ministers and their friends, +therefore, should be seen in pride of place, and enjoying the dignity +they have achieved, is natural, inevitable, and quite as it should be. +But if, turning from this every-day spectacle, we endeavour to +discover who it is that, possessing neither power nor place, most +uniformly receive the homage of respect, I should say, without a +shadow of doubt or misgiving, that it was the legitimate royalists. + +The triumphant doctrinaires pass no jokes at their expense; no _bons +mots_ are quoted against them, nor does any shop exhibit caricatures +either of what they have been or of what they are. + +The republicans are no longer heard to name them, either with rancour +or disrespect: all their wrath is now poured out upon the present +actual power of the prosperous doctrinaires. This, indeed, is in +strict conformity to the principle which constitutes the foundation of +their sect; namely, that whatever exists ought to be overthrown. But +neither in jest nor earnest do they now show hostility to Charles the +Tenth or his family: nor even do the blank walls of Paris, which for +nearly half a century have been the favourite receptacle of all their +wit, exhibit any pleasantries, either in the shape of hieroglyphic, +caricature, or lampoon, alluding to them or their cause. + +I have listened repeatedly to sprightly and to bitter jestings, to +judicious and to blundering reasonings, for and against the different +doctrines which divide the country; but in no instance do I remember +to have heard, either in jest or earnest, any revilings against the +exiled race. A sort of sacred silence seems to envelope this theme; or +if it be alluded to at all, it is far from being in a hostile spirit. + +"HENRI!" is a name that, without note or comment, may be read _ça et +là_ in every quarter of Paris, that of the Tuileries not excepted: and +on a wall near the Royal College of Henri Quatre, where the younger +princes of the house of Orleans still study, were inscribed not long +ago these very intelligible words:-- + +"Pour arriver à Bordeaux, il faut passer par Orléans." + +In short, whatever feelings of irritation and anger might have existed +in 1830, and produced the scenes which led to the exile of the royal +family, they now seem totally to have subsided. + +It does not, however, necessarily follow from this that the majority +of the people are ready again to hazard their precious tranquillity in +order to restore them: on the contrary, it cannot be doubted that were +such a measure attempted at the present moment, it would fail--not +from any dislike of their legitimate monarch, or any affection for +the kinsman who has been placed upon his throne, but wholly and +solely from their wish to enjoy in peace their profitable speculations +at the _Bourse_--their flourishing _restaurans_--their prosperous +shops--and even their tables, chairs, beds, and coffee-pots. + +Very different, however, is the feeling manifested towards the +republicans. Never did Napoleon in the days of his most absolute +power, or the descendants of Louis le Grand in those of their proudest +state, contemplate this factious, restless race with such abhorrence +as do the doctrinaires of the present hour. It is not that they fear +them--they have no real cause to do so; but they feel a sentiment made +up of hatred and contempt, which never seems to repose, and which, if +not regulated by wisdom and moderation, is very likely eventually to +lead to more barricades; though to none, I imagine, that the National +Guards may not easily throw down. + +It is on the subject of this unpopular _clique_ that by far the +greater part of the ever-springing Parisian jokes expends itself; +though the doctrinaires get it "_pas mal_" in return, as I heard a +national guardsman remark, as we were looking over some caricatures +together. But, in truth, the republicans seem upon principle to offer +themselves as victims and martyrs to the quizzing propensities of +their countrymen. Harlequin does not more scrupulously adhere to his +parti-coloured suit, than do the republicans of Paris to their +burlesque costume. It is, I presume, to show their courage, that they +so ostentatiously march with their colours flying; but the effect is +very ludicrous. The symbolic peculiarities of their dress are classed +and lithographed with infinite fun. + +Drolleries, too, on the parvenus of the Empire are to be found for the +seeking; and when they beset King Philippe himself, it should seem +that it is done with all the enthusiasm so well expressed by Garrick +in days of yore:-- + + "'Tis for my king, and, zounds! I'll do my best!" + +The only extraordinary part of all this caricaturing on walls and in +print-shops, is the license taken with those who have power to prevent +it. The principle of legislation on this point appears, with a little +variation, to be that of the old ballad: + + "Thoughts, words, and deeds, the statute blames with reason; + But surely _jokes_ were ne'er indicted treason." + +In speaking of the parties into which France is divided, the three +grand divisions of Carlists, Doctrinaires, and Republicans naturally +present themselves first and foremost, and, to foreigners in general, +appear to contain between them the entire nation: but a month or two +passed in Paris society suffices to show one that there are many who +cannot fairly be classed with either. + +In the first place, the Carlist party by no means contains all those +who disapprove of treating a crown like a ready-made shoe, which, if +it be found to pinch the person it was intended for, may be disposed +of to the first comer who is willing to take it. The Carlist party, +properly so called, demand the restoration of King Charles the Tenth, +the immediate descendant and representative of their long line of +kings--the prince who has been crowned and anointed King of France, +and who, while he remains alive, must render the crowning and +anointing of any other prince an act of sacrilege. Wherefore, in +effect, King Louis-Philippe has not received "_le sacre_:" he is not +as yet the anointed King of France, whatever he may be hereafter. +Henri Quatre is said to have exclaimed under the walls of the capital, +"Paris vaut bien une messe;" and it is probable that Louis-Philippe +Premier thinks so too; but hitherto he has been able to have this +performed only in military style--being incapable, in fact, of going +through the ceremony either civilly or religiously. The Carlists are, +therefore, those only who _en rigueur_ do not approve of any king but +the real one. + +The legitimate royalists are, I believe, a much more numerous party. +As strictly attached to the throne and to the principle of regular +and legitimate succession as the Carlists, they nevertheless conceive +that the pressure of circumstances may not only authorise, but render +it imperative upon the country to accept, or rather to permit, the +abdication of a sovereign. The king's leaving the country and placing +himself in exile, is one of the few causes that can justify this; and +accordingly the abdication of Charles Dix is virtual death to him as a +sovereign. But though this is granted, it does not follow in their +creed, that any part of the nation have thereupon a right to present +the hereditary crown to whom they will. The law of succession, they +say, is not to be violated because the king has fled before a popular +insurrection; and having permitted his abdication, the next heir +becomes king. This next heir, however, choosing to follow his royal +father's example, he too becomes virtually defunct, and his heir +succeeds. + +This heir is still an infant, and his remaining in exile cannot +therefore be interpreted as his own act. Thus, according to the +reasoning of those who conceive the abdication of the king and the +dauphin to be acts within their own power, and beyond that of the +nation to nullify, Henri, the son of the Duc de Berri, is beyond all +doubt Henri Cinq, Roi de France. + +Of this party, however, there are many, and I suspect their number is +increasing, who, having granted the power of setting aside (by his own +act) the anointed monarch, are not altogether averse to go a step +farther, if so doing shall ensure the peace of the country; and +considering the infancy of the rightful heir as constituting +insufficiency, to confess Louis-Philippe as the next in succession to +be the lawful as well as the actual King of the French. + +It is this party who I always find have the most to say in support (or +defence) of their opinions. Whether this proceed from their feeling +that some eloquence is necessary to make them pass current, or that +the conviction of their justice is such as to make their hearts +overflow on the theme, I know not; but decidedly the sect of the +"_Parcequ'il est Bourbon_" is that which I find most eager to +discourse upon politics. And, to confess the truth, they have much to +say for themselves, at least on the side of expediency. + +It is often a matter of regret with me, that in addressing these +letters to you I am compelled to devote so large a portion of them to +politics; but in attempting to give you some idea of Paris at the +present moment, it is impossible to avoid it. Were I to turn from this +theme, I could only do so by labouring to forget everything I have +seen, everything I see. Go where you will, do what you will, meet whom +you will, it is out of your power to escape it. But observe, that it +is wholly for your sake, and not at all for my own, that I lament it; +for, however flat and unprofitable my report may be, the thing itself, +when you are in the midst of it, is exceedingly interesting. + +When I first arrived, I was considerably annoyed by finding, that as +soon as I had noted down some piece of information as an undoubted +fact, the next person I conversed with assured me that it was worth +considerably less than nought; inasmuch as my informer had not only +failed to give me useful instruction on the point concerning which I +was inquiring, but had altogether deluded, deceived, and led me +astray. + +These days of primitive matter-of-factness are now, however, quite +passed with me; and though I receive a vast deal of entertainment from +all, I give my faith in return to very few. I listen to the Carlists, +the Henri-Quintists, the Philippists, with great attention and real +interest, but have sometimes caught myself humming as soon as they +have left me, + + "They were all of them kings in their turn." + +Indeed, if you knew all that happens to me, instead of blaming me for +being too political, you would be very thankful for the care and pains +I bestow in endeavouring to make a digest of all I hear for your +advantage, containing as few contradictions as possible. And truly +this is no easy matter, not only from the contradictory nature of the +information I receive, but from some varying weaknesses in my own +nature, which sometimes put me in the very disagreeable predicament of +doubting if what is right be right, and if what is wrong be wrong. + +When I came here, I was a thorough unequivocating legitimatist, and +felt quite ready and willing to buckle on armour against any who +should doubt that a man once a king was always a king--that once +crowned according to law, he could not be uncrowned according to +mob--or that a man's eldest son was his rightful heir. + +But, oh! these doctrinaires! They have such a way of proving that if +they are not quite right, at least everybody else is a great deal more +wrong: and then they talk so prettily of England and _our_ revolution, +and our glorious constitution--and the miseries of anarchy--and the +advantages of letting things remain quietly as they are, till, as I +said before, I begin to doubt what is right and what is wrong. + +There is one point, however, on which we agree wholly and heartily; +and it is this perhaps that has been the means of softening my heart +thus towards them. The doctrinaires shudder at the name of a republic. +This is not because their own party is regal, but is evidently the +result of the experience which they and their fathers have had from +the tremendous experiment which has once already been made in the +country. + +"You will never know the full value of your constitution till you have +lost it," said a doctrinaire to me the other evening, at the house of +the beautiful Princess B----, formerly an energetic propagandiste, but +now a very devoted doctrinaire,--"you will never know how beneficial +is its influence on every hour of your lives, till your Mr. O'Connell +has managed to arrange a republic for you: and when you have tasted +that for about three months, you will make good and faithful subjects +to the next king that Heaven shall bestow upon you. You know how +devoted all France was to the Emperor, though the police was somewhat +tight, and the conscriptions heavy: but he had saved us from a +republic, and we adored him. For a few days, or rather hours, we were +threatened again, five years ago, by the same terrible apparition: the +result is, that four millions of armed men stand ready to protect the +prince who chased it. Were it to appear a third time--which Heaven +forbid!--you may depend upon it that the monarch who should next +ascend the throne of France might play at _le jeu de quilles_ with his +subjects, and no one be found to complain." + + + + +LETTER XLI. + + M. Dupré.--His Drawings in Greece.--L'Eglise des Carmes.--M. + Vinchon's Picture of the National Convention.--Léopold + Robert's Fishermen.--Reported cause of his Suicide.--Roman + Catholic Religion.--Mr. Daniel O'Connell. + + +We went the other morning, with Miss C----, a very agreeable +countrywoman, who has however passed the greater portion of her life +in Paris, to visit the house and atelier of M. Dupré, a young artist +who seems to have devoted himself to the study of Greece. Her princes, +her peasants, her heavy-eyed beauties, and the bright sky that glows +above them,--all the material of her domestic life, and all the +picturesque accompaniments of her classic reminiscences, are brought +home by this gentleman in a series of spirited and highly-finished +drawings, which give decidedly the most lively idea of the country +that I have seen produced. Engravings or lithographs from them are, I +believe, intended to illustrate a splendid work on this interesting +country which is about to be published. + +In our way from M. Dupré's house, in which was this collection of +Greek drawings, to his atelier--where he was kind enough to show us a +large picture recently commenced--we entered that fatal "Eglise des +Carmes," where the most hideous massacre of the first revolution took +place. A large tree that stands beside it is pointed out as having +been sought as a shelter--alas! how vainly!--by the unhappy priests, +who were shot, sabred, and dragged from its branches by dozens. A +thousand terrible recollections are suggested by the interior of the +building, aided by the popular traditions attached to it, unequalled +in atrocity even in the history of that time of horror. + +Another scene relating to the same period, which, though inferior to +the massacre of the priests in multiplied barbarity, was of sufficient +horror to freeze the blood of any but a republican, has, strange to +say, been made, since the revolution of 1830, the subject of an +enormous picture by M. Vinchon, and at the present moment makes part +of the exhibition at the Louvre. + +The canvass represents a hall at the Tuileries which in 1795 was the +place where the National Convention sat. The mob has broken in, and +murdered Feraud, who attempted to oppose them; and the moment chosen +by the painter is that in which a certain "_jeune fille nommée Aspasie +Migelli_" approaches the president's chair with the young man's head +borne on a pike before her, while she triumphantly envelopes herself +in some part of his dress. The whole scene is one of the most terrible +revolutionary violence. This picture is stated in the catalogue to +belong to the minister of the interior; but whether the present +minister of the interior, or any other, I know not. The subject was +given immediately after the revolution of 1830, and many artists made +sketches in competition for the execution of it. One of those who +tried, and failed before the superior genius of M. Vinchon, told us, +that the subject was given at that time as one likely to be popular, +either for love of the noble resolution with which Boissy d'Anglas +keeps possession of the president's chair, which he had seized upon, +or else from admiration of the energetic female who has assisted in +doing the work of death. In either case, this young artist said, the +popularity of such a subject was passed by, and no such order would be +given now. + +Finding myself again on the subject of pictures, I must mention a very +admirable one which is now being exhibited at the "Mairie du Second +Arrondissement." It is from the hand of the unfortunate Leopold +Robert, who destroyed himself at Venice almost immediately after he +had completed it. The subject is the departure of a party of Italian +fishermen; and there are parts of the picture fully equal to anything +I have ever seen from the pencil of a modern artist. I should have +looked at this picture with extreme pleasure, had the painter still +lived to give hope of, perhaps, still higher efforts; but the history +of his death, which I had just been listening to, mixed great pain +with it. + +I have been told that this young man was of a very religious and +meditative turn of mind, but a Protestant. His only sister, to whom he +was much attached, was a Catholic, and had recently taken the veil. +Her affection for him was such, that she became perfectly wretched +from the danger she believed awaited him from his heresy; and she +commenced a species of affectionate persecution, which, though it +failed to convert him, so harassed and distracted his mind, as finally +to overthrow his reason, and lead him to self-destruction. This +charming picture is exhibited for the benefit of the poor, at the +especial desire of the unhappy nun; who is said, however, to be so +perfect a fanatic, as only to regret that the dreadful act was not +delayed till she had had time to work out the salvation of her own +soul by a little more persecution of his. + +There is something exceedingly curious, and, perhaps, under our +present lamentable circumstances, somewhat alarming, in the young and +vigorous after-growth of the Roman Catholic religion, which, by the +aid of a very little inquiry, may be so easily traced throughout France. +Were we keeping our own national church sacred, and guarded both by +love and by law, as it has hitherto been from all assaults of the Pope +and ... Mr. O'Connell, it could only be with pleasure that we should +see France recovering from her long ague-fit of infidelity,--and, as +far as she is concerned, we must in Christian charity rejoice, for she +is unquestionably the better for it; but there is a regenerated +activity among the Roman Catholic clergy, which, under existing +circumstances, makes a Protestant feel rather nervous,--and I declare +to you, I never pass within sight of that famous window of the Louvre, +whence Charles Neuf, with his own royal and catholic hand, discharged +a blunderbuss amongst the Huguenots, without thinking how well a +window at Whitehall, already noted in history as a scene of horror, +might serve King Daniel for the same purpose. + +The great influence which the religion of Rome has of late regained +over the minds of the French people has, I am told, been considerably +increased by the priests having added to the strength derived from +their command of pardons and indulgences, that which our Methodist +preachers gain from the terrors of hell. They use the same language, +too, respecting regeneration and grace; and, as one means of regaining +the hold they had lost upon the human mind, they now anathematize all +recreations, as if their congregations were so many aspirants to the +sublime purifications of La Trappe, or so many groaning fanatics just +made over to them from Lady Huntingdon's Chapel. That there is, +however, a pretty strong force to stem this fresh spring-tide of +moon-struck superstition, is very certain. The doctrinaires, I am +told, taken as a body, are not much addicted to this species of +weakness. I remember, during the prevalence of that sweeping complaint +called the influenza, hearing of a "good lady," of the high +evangelical _clique_, who said to some of the numerous pensioners who +flocked to receive the crumbs of her table and the precepts of her +lips, that she could make up some medicine that was very good for all +POOR people that were seized with this complaint. + +"What can be the difference, ma'am," said the poor body who told me +this, "between us and Madame C---- in this illness? Is not what is +good for the poor, good for the rich too?" + +The same pertinent question may, I think, be asked in Paris just now +respecting the medicine called religion. It is administered in large +doses to the poor, to which class a great number of the fair sex of +all ranks happily seem to have joined themselves, intending, at +least, to rank themselves as among the poor in spirit; nay, parish +doctors are regularly paid by authority; yet, if the tale be true, the +authorities themselves take little of it. "It is very good for poor +people;" but, like the hot-baths which Anstie talks of, + + "No creature e'er view'd + Any one of the government gentry stew'd." + +Whether the returning power of this pompous and aspiring faith will +mount as it proceeds, and embrace within its grasp, as it was wont to +do, all the great ones of the earth, is a question that it may require +some years to answer; but one thing is at least certain,--that its +ministers will try hard that it shall do so, whether they are likely +to succeed or not; and, at the worst, they may console themselves by +the reflection of Lafontaine:-- + + "Si de les gagner je n'emporte pas le prix, + J'aurais au moins l'honneur de l'avoir entrepris." + +One great one they have certainly already got, besides King Charles +the Tenth,--even the immortal Daniel; and however little consequence +you may be inclined to attach to this fact, it cannot be considered as +wholly unimportant, since I have heard his religious principles and +his influence in England alluded to in the pulpit here with a tone of +hope and triumph which made me tremble. + +I heartily wish that some of those who continue to vote in his +traitorous majority because they are pledged to do so, could hear him +and his power spoken of here. If they have English hearts, it must, I +think, give them a pang. + + + + +LETTER XLII. + + Old Maids.--Rarely to be found in France.--The reasons for + this. + + +Several years ago, while passing a few weeks in Paris, I had a +conversation with a Frenchman upon the subject of old maids, which, +though so long past, I refer to now for the sake of the sequel, which +has just reached me. + +We were, I well remember, parading in the Gardens of the Luxembourg; +and as we paced up and down its long alleys, the "miserable fate," as +he called it, of single women in England was discussed and deplored by +my companion as being one of the most melancholy results of faulty +national manners that could be mentioned. + +"I know nothing," said he with much energy, "that ever gave me more +pain in society, than seeing, as I did in England, numbers of unhappy +women who, however well-born, well-educated, or estimable, were +without a position, without an _état_ and without a name, excepting +one that they would generally give half their remaining days to get +rid of." + +"I think you somewhat exaggerate the evil," I replied: "but even if it +were as bad as you state it to be, I see not why single ladies should +be better off here." + +"Here!" he exclaimed, in a tone of horror: "Do you really imagine that +in France, where we pride ourselves on making the destiny of our women +the happiest in the world,--do you really imagine that we suffer a set +of unhappy, innocent, helpless girls to drop, as it were, out of +society into the _néant_ of celibacy, as you do? God keep us from such +barbarity!" + +"But how can you help it? It is impossible but that circumstances must +arise to keep many of your men single; and if the numbers be equally +balanced, it follows that there must be single women too." + +"It may seem so; but the fact is otherwise: we have no single women." + +"What, then, becomes of them?" + +"I know not; but were any Frenchwoman to find herself so +circumstanced, depend upon it she would drown herself." + +"I know one such, however," said a lady who was with us: "Mademoiselle +Isabelle B*** is an old maid." + +"Est-il possible!" cried the gentleman, in a tone that made me laugh +very heartily. "And how old is she, this unhappy Mademoiselle +Isabelle?" + +"I do not know exactly," replied the lady; "but I think she must be +considerably past thirty." + +"C'est une horreur!" he exclaimed again; adding, rather mysteriously, +in a half-whisper, "Trust me, she will not bear it long!" + + * * * * * + +I had certainly forgotten Mademoiselle Isabelle and all about her, +when I again met the lady who had named her as the one sole existing +old maid of France. While conversing with her the other day on many +things which had passed when we were last together, she asked me if I +remembered this conversation. I assured her that I had forgotten no +part of it. + +"Well, then," said she, "I must tell you what happened to me about +three months after it took place. I was invited with my husband to pay +a visit at the house of a friend in the country,--the same house where +I had formerly seen the Mademoiselle Isabelle B*** whom I had named +to you. While playing _écarté_ with our host in the evening, I +recollected our conversation in the Gardens of the Luxembourg, and +inquired for the lady who had been named in it. + +"'Is it possible that you have not heard what has happened to her?' he +replied. + +"'No, indeed; I have heard nothing. Is she married, then?' + +"'Married!... Alas, no! she has _drowned herself_!'" + +Terrible as this dénouement was, it could not be heard with the solemn +gravity it called for, after what had been said respecting her. Was +ever coincidence more strange! My friend told me, that on her return +to Paris she mentioned this catastrophe to the gentleman who had +seemed to predict it; when the information was received by an +exclamation quite in character,--"God be praised! then she is out of +her misery!" + +This incident, and the conversation which followed upon it, induced me +to inquire in sober earnest what degree of truth there might really be +in the statement made to us in this well-remembered conversation; and +it certainly does appear, from all I can learn, that the meeting a +single woman past thirty is a very rare occurrence in France. The +arranging _un mariage convenable_ is in fact as necessary and as +ordinary a duty in parents towards a daughter, as the sending her to +nurse or the sending her to school. The proposal for such an alliance +proceeds quite as frequently from the friends of the lady as from +those of the gentleman: and it is obvious that this must at once very +greatly increase the chance of a suitable marriage for young women; +for though we do occasionally send our daughters to India in the hope +of obtaining this much-desired result, few English parents have as +yet gone the length of proposing to anybody, or to anybody's son, to +take their daughter off their hands. + +I have not the least doubt in the world that, were the custom +otherwise--were a young lady's claim to an establishment pointed out +by her friends, instead of being left to be discovered or undiscovered +as chance will have it,--I have no doubt in the world that in such a +case many happy marriages might be the result: and where such an +arrangement infringes on no feeling of propriety, but is adopted only +in conformity to national custom, I can well believe that the fair +lady herself may deem her having nothing to do with the business a +privilege of infinite importance to her delicacy. But would our +English girls like, for the satisfaction of escaping the chance of +being an old maid, to give up the dear right of awaiting in maiden +dignity till they are chosen--selected from out the entire world--and +then of saying yes or no, as may please their fancy best? + +If I do not greatly mistake the national character of Englishwomen, +there are very few who could be found to exchange this privilege for +the most perfect assurance that could be given of obtaining a marriage +in any other way. As to which is best and which is wisest, or even +which is likely to produce, ultimately and generally, the most happy +_ménage_, I will not pretend to say; because I have heard so much +plausible, and indeed, in some respects, substantial reasoning in +favour of the mode pursued here, that I feel it may be considered as +doubtful: but as to which is and must be most agreeable to the parties +chiefly concerned at the time the connexion is formed, herein I own I +think there can be no question whatever that English men and English +women have the advantage. + +With all the inclination in the world to believe that France abounds +with loving, constant, faithful wives, and husbands too, I cannot but +think that if they are so, it is in spite of the manner in which their +marriages are made, and not in consequence of it. The strongest +argument in favour of their manner of proceeding undoubtedly is, that +a husband who receives a young wife as totally without impressions of +any kind, (as a well-brought-up French girl certainly is,) has a +better chance--or rather, has more _power_ of making her heart +entirely his own, than any man can have that falls in love with a +beauty of twenty, who may already have heard as tender sighs as he can +utter breathed in her ear by some one who may have had no power to +marry her, but who might have had a heart to love her, and a tongue to +win her as well as himself. + +But against this how much is to be placed! However dearly a +Frenchwoman may love her husband, he can never feel that it is a love +which has selected him; and though it may sometimes happen that a +pretty creature is applied for because of her prettiness, yet if the +application be made and answered, and no question asked as to her will +or wish in the affair, she can feel but little gratification even to +her vanity--and certainly nothing whatever approaching to a feeling of +tenderness at her heart. + +The force of habit is ever so inveterate, that it is not likely either +nation can be really a fair and impartial judge of the other in a +matter so entirely regulated by it. Therefore, all that I, as English, +will venture to say farther on the subject is, that I should be sorry +on this point to see us adopt the fashion of our neighbour France. + +I have reason to believe, however, that my friend of the Luxembourg +Gardens exaggerated a good deal in his statement respecting the +non-existence of single women in France. They do exist here, though +certainly in less numbers than in England,--but it is not so easy to +find them out. With us it is not unusual for single ladies to take +what is called _brevet rank_;--that is, Miss Dorothy Tomkins becomes +Mrs. Dorothy Tomkins--and sometimes _tout bonnement_ Mrs. Tomkins, +provided there be no collateral Mrs. Tomkins to interfere with her: +but upon no occasion do I remember that any lady in this predicament +called herself the widow Tomkins, or the widow anything else. + +Here, however, I am assured that the case is different; and that, let +the number of spinsters be great or small, no one but the near +connexions and most intimate friends of the party know anything of the +matter. Many a _veuve respectable_ has never had a husband in her +life; and I have heard it positively affirmed, that the secret is +often so well kept, that the nieces and nephews of a family do not +know their maiden aunts from their widowed ones. + +This shows, at least, that matrimony is considered here as a more +honourable state than that of celibacy; though it does not quite go +the length of proving that all single women drown themselves. + +But before I quit this subject, I must say a few words to you +concerning the old maids of England. There are few things which chafe +my spirit more than hearing single women spoken of with contempt +because they are such, or seeing them treated with less consideration +and attention than those who chance to be married. The cruelty and +injustice of this must be obvious to every one upon a moment's +thought; but to me its absurdity is more obvious still. + +It is, I believe, a notorious fact, that there is scarcely a woman to +be found, of any rank under that of a princess of the blood royal, +who, at the age of fifty, has not at some time or in some manner had +the power of marrying if she chose it. That many who have had this +power have been tyrannically or unfortunately prevented from using it, +is certain; but there is nothing either ridiculous or contemptible in +this. + +Still less does a woman merit scorn if she has had the firmness and +constancy of purpose to prefer a single life because she has +considered it best and fittest for her: in fact, I know nothing more +high-minded than the doing so. The sneering which follows female +celibacy is so well known and so coarsely manifested, that it shows +very considerable dignity of character to enable a woman to endure it, +rather than act against her sense of what is right. + +I by no means say this by way of running a-tilt against all the ladies +in France who have submitted, _bon gré, mal gré_, to become wives at +the command of their fathers, mothers, uncles, aunts, and guardians: +they have done exactly what they ought, and I hope all their pretty +little quiet-looking daughters will do the same; it is the custom of +the country, and cannot discreetly be departed from. But being on the +subject, I am led, while defending our own modes of proceeding in the +important affair of marriage, to remark also on the result of them. In +permitting a young woman to become acquainted with the man who +proposes for her before she consents to pass her whole life with him, +I certainly see some advantage; but in my estimation there is more +still in the protection which our usage in these matters affords to +those who, rather than marry a man who is not the object of their +choice, prefer remaining single. I confess, too, that I consider the +class of single women as an extremely important one. Their entire +freedom from control gives them great power over their time and +resources, much more than any other woman can possibly possess who is +not a childless widow. That this power is often--very often--nobly +used, none can deny who are really and thoroughly acquainted with +English society; and if among the class there be some who love cards, +and tattle, and dress, and slander, they should be treated with just +the same measure of contempt as the married ladies who may also +occasionally be found to love cards, and tattle, and dress, and +slander,--but with no more. + +It has been my chance, and I imagine that it has been the chance of +most other people, to have found my dearest and most constant friends +among single women. Of all the Helenas and Hermias that before marriage +have sat "upon one cushion, warbling of one song," even for years +together, how few are there who are not severed by marriage! Kind +feelings may be retained, and correspondence (lazily enough) kept up; +but to whom is it that the anxious mother, watching beside the sick +couch of her child, turns for sympathy and consolation?--certainly not +to the occupied and perhaps distant wedded confidante of her youthful +days, but to her maiden sister or her maiden friend. Nor is it only in +sickness that such friends are among the first blessings of life: they +violate no duty by giving their time and their talents to society; and +many a day through every house in England has probably owed some of +its most delightful hours to the presence of those whom no duty has +called + + "To suckle fools or chronicle small beer," + +and whose talents, therefore, are not only at their own disposal, but +in all probability much more highly cultivated than any possessed by +their married friends. + +Thus, spite of him of the Luxembourg, I am most decidedly of opinion, +that, in England at least, there is no reason whatever that an +unmarried woman should consign herself to the fate of the unfortunate +Mademoiselle Isabelle. + + +END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. + + + + + LONDON: + + PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, + Dorset Street, Fleet Street. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. +1 of 2), by Frances Milton Trollope + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PARIS AND THE PARISIANS IN 1835 *** + +***** This file should be named 38997-8.txt or 38997-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/9/9/38997/ + +Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 1 of 2) + +Author: Frances Milton Trollope + +Release Date: February 27, 2012 [EBook #38997] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PARIS AND THE PARISIANS IN 1835 *** + + + + +Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="tnbox"> +<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> +<p>Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. +Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original +document have been preserved.</p> +<p>The errata listed at the end of the "Embellishments" were corrected +in this edition.</p> +</div> + +<p class="center b13 p6">PARIS AND THE PARISIANS<br /> +IN 1835.</p> + +<hr class="l15" /> + +<p class="center b13">VOL. I.</p> + +<p class="center p6 s08">Preparing for publication, by the same Author,<br /> +In 3 vols. post 8vo. with 15 Characteristic Engravings.</p> + +<p class="center">THE LIFE AND ADVENTURES<br /> + +<span class="s05">OF</span><br /> + +JONATHAN JEFFERSON WHITLAW<br /> + +<span class="s05">OR,</span><br /></p> + +<p class="center">SCENES ON THE MISSISSIPPI.</p> + +<p class="center p6 b15"><span class="smcap">Paris and the Parisians,<br /> +in 1835.</span></p> +<p class="center b13">VOL. I.</p> + +<div class="figcenter p6"> +<img src="images/ill003.jpg" width="600" height="496" alt="Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu." /> +<p class="caption">Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu.</p> +</div> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">London</span>:</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street.</span></p> + +<p class="center">Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty,<br /> +1835.</p> + +<h1 class="p6"> +PARIS<br /><br /> +AND<br /><br /> +THE PARISIANS<br /><br /> +IN 1835.</h1> + +<h2>BY FRANCES TROLLOPE,</h2> + +<p class="center">AUTHOR OF "DOMESTIC MANNERS OF THE AMERICANS,"<br /> +"TREMORDYN CLIFF," &c.</p> +<hr class="l15" /> +<p class="center">"Le pire des états, c'est l'état populaire."—<span class="smcap">Corneille.</span></p> +<hr class="l15" /> +<p class="center p2">IN TWO VOLUMES.</p> + +<p class="center">VOL. I.</p> + +<p class="center p6">LONDON:<br /> +RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,<br /> +Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty.<br /> +1836.</p> + +<p class="center p6"> +LONDON:<br /> +PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,<br /> +Dorset Street, Fleet Street.</p> + +<h2>PREFACE.</h2> + +<hr class="l15" /> +<p>From the very beginning of reading and writing—nay, +doubtless from the very beginning of +speaking,—<span class="smcap">Truth</span>, immortal <span class="smcap">Truth</span> has been the +object of ostensible worship to all who read and +to all who listen; and, in the abstract, it is unquestionably +held in sincere veneration by all: +yet, in the detail of every-day practice, the majority +of mankind often hate it, and are seen to +bear pain, disappointment, and sorrow more patiently +than its honoured voice when it echoes +not their own opinion.</p> + +<p>Preconceived notions generally take a much +firmer hold of the mind than can be obtained by +any statement, however clear and plain, which +tends to overthrow them; and if it happen that +these are connected with an honest intention of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">vi</a></span> +being right, they are often mistaken for principles;—in +which case the attempt to shake them +is considered not merely as a folly, but a sin.</p> + +<p>With this conviction strongly impressed upon +my mind, it requires some moral courage to +publish these volumes; for they are written in +conformity to the opinions of ... perhaps none,—and, +worse still, there is that in them which may +be considered as contradictory to my own. Had +I before my late visit to Paris written a book +for the purpose of advocating the opinions I entertained +on the state of the country, it certainly +would have been composed in a spirit by no +means according in all points with that manifested +in the following pages: but while profiting +by every occasion which permitted me to mix +with distinguished people of all parties, I learnt +much of which I was—in common, I suspect, with +many others—very profoundly ignorant. I found +good where I looked for mischief—strength where +I anticipated weakness—and the watchful wisdom +of cautious legislators, most usefully at work +for the welfare of their country, instead of the +crude vagaries of a revolutionary government, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">vii</a></span> +active only in leading blindfold the deluded +populace who trusted to them.</p> + +<p>The result of this was, first a wavering, and +then a change of opinion,—not as to the immutable +laws which should regulate hereditary succession, +or the regret that it should ever have +been deemed expedient to violate them—but as +to the wisest way in which the French nation, +situated as it actually is, can be governed, so as +best to repair the grievous injuries left by former +convulsions, and most effectually to guard against +a recurrence of them in future.</p> + +<p>That the present policy of France keeps these +objects steadily in view, and that much wisdom +and courage are at work to advance them, cannot +be doubted; and those most anxious to advocate +the sacred cause of well-ordered authority +amongst all the nations of the earth should be +the first to bear testimony to this truth.</p> + +<p class="i2">London, December 1835.</p> + +<h2>CONTENTS<br /> +TO<br /> +THE FIRST VOLUME.</h2> + +<div class="toc"> +<h3>LETTER I.</h3> + +<p>Difficulty of giving a systematic account of what is doing +in France.—Pleasure of revisiting Paris after long absence.—What +is changed; what remains the same. <span class="page">Page <a href="#Page_1">1</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER II.</h3> + +<p>Absence of the English Embassy.—Trial of the Lyons +Prisoners.—Church of the Madeleine.—Statue of Napoleon.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER III.</h3> + +<p>Slang.—Les Jeunes Gens de Paris.—La Jeune France.—Rococo.—Décousu.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER IV.</h3> + +<p>Théâtre Français.—Mademoiselle Mars.—Elmire.—'Charlotte +Brown.'—Extract from a Sermon.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER V.</h3> + +<p>Exhibition of Living Artists at the Louvre.—The Deluge.—Poussin +and Martin.—Portraits.—Appearance of the +company.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">x</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER VI.</h3> + +<p>Society.—Morality.—False Impressions and False Reports.—Observations +from a Frenchman on a recent publication.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER VII.</h3> + +<p>Alarm created by the Trial of the Lyons Prisoners.—Visits +from a Republican and from a Doctrinaire: reassured +by the promises of safety and protection received from the +latter.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER VIII.</h3> + +<p>Eloquence of the Pulpit.—L'Abbé Cœur.—Sermon at +St. Roch.—Elegant Congregation.—Costume of the younger +Clergy.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER IX.</h3> + +<p>Literature of the Revolutionary School.—Its low estimation +in France.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER X.</h3> + +<p>Lonchamps.—The "Three Hours' Agony" at St. Roch.—Sermons +on the Gospel of Good-Friday.—Prospects of +the Catholics.—O'Connell.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XI.</h3> + +<p>Trial Chamber at the Luxembourg.—Institute.—M. Mignet.—Concert +Musard.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XII.</h3> + +<p>Easter-Sunday at Notre Dame.—Archbishop.—View of +Paris.—Victor Hugo.—Hôtel Dieu.—Mr. Jefferson.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">xi</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XIII.</h3> + +<p>"Le Monomane".<span class="page"><a href="#Page_91">91</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XIV.</h3> + +<p>The Gardens of the Tuileries.—Legitimatist.—Republican.—Doctrinaire.—Children.—Dress +of the Ladies.—Of the +Gentlemen.—Black Hair.—Unrestricted Admission.—Anecdote.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XV.</h3> + +<p>Street Police.—Cleaning Beds.—Tinning Kettles.—Building +Houses.—Loading Carts.—Preparing for the Scavenger.—Want +of Drains.—Bad Pavement.—Darkness.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_112">112</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XVI.</h3> + +<p>Preparations for the Fête du Roi.—Arrival of Troops.—Champs +Elysées.—Concert in the Garden of the Tuileries.—Silence +of the People.—Fireworks.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_120">120</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XVII.</h3> + +<p>Political chances.—Visit from a Republican.—His high +spirits at the prospects before him.—His advice to me +respecting my name.—Removal of the Prisoners from +Ste. Pélagie.—Review.—Garde de Paris.—The National +Guard.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_130">130</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XVIII.</h3> + +<p>First Day of the Trials.—Much blustering, but no riot.—All +alarm subsided.—Proposal for inviting Lord B——m +to plead at the Trial.—Society.—Charm of idle conversation.—The +Whisperer of good stories.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_141">141</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XIX.</h3> +<p>Victor Hugo.—Racine.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_151">151</a></span></p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">xii</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XX.</h3> + +<p>Versailles.—St. Cloud.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_170">170</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXI.</h3> + +<p>History of the Vicomte de B——. His opinions.—State +of France.—Expediency.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_180">180</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXII.</h3> + +<p>Père Lachaise.—Mourning in public.—Defacing the Tomb +of Abelard and Eloïsa.—Baron Munchausen.—Russian +Monument.—Statue of Manuel.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_189">189</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXIII.</h3> + +<p>Remarkable People.—Distinguished People.—Metaphysical +Lady.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXIV.</h3> + +<p>Expedition to the Luxembourg.—No admittance for +Females.—Portraits of "Henri."—Republican Costume.—Quai +Voltaire.—Mural Inscriptions.—Anecdote of Marshal +Lobau.—Arrest.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_206">206</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXV.</h3> + +<p>Chapelle Expiatoire.—Devotees seen there.—Tri-coloured +flag out of place there.—Flower Market of the Madeleine.—Petites +Maîtresses.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXVI.</h3> + +<p>Delicacy in France and in England.—Causes of the +difference between them.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_227">227</a></span></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">xiii</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXVII.</h3> + +<p>Objections to quoting the names of private individuals.—Impossibility +of avoiding Politics.—<i>Parceque</i> and <i>Quoique</i>.—Soirée +Antithestique.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_237">237</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXVIII.</h3> + +<p>New Publications.—M. de Lamartine's "Souvenirs, Impressions, +Pensées, et Paysages."—Tocqueville and Beaumont.—New +American regulation.—M. Scribe.—Madame +Tastu.—Reception of different Writers in society.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_249">249</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXIX.</h3> + +<p>Sunday in Paris.—Family Groups.—Popular Enjoyment.—Polytechnic +Students.—Their resemblance to the figure +of Napoleon.—Enduring attachment to the Emperor.—Conservative +spirit of the English Schools.—Sunday in +the Gardens of the Tuileries.—Religion of the Educated.—Popular +Opinion.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_257">257</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXX.</h3> + +<p>Madame Récamier.—Her Morning Parties.—Gérard's +Picture of Corinne.—Miniature of Madame de Staël.—M. +de Châteaubriand.—Conversation on the degree in which +the French Language is understood by Foreigners.—The +necessity of speaking French.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_269">269</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXXI.</h3> + +<p>Exhibition of Sèvres China at the Louvre.—Gobelins and +Beauvais Tapestry.—Legitimatist Father and Doctrinaire +Son.—Copies from the Medicean Gallery.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_281">281</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXXII.</h3> + +<p>Eglise Apostolique Française.—Its doctrine.—L'Abbé Auzou.—His +Sermon on "les Plaisirs Populaires."<span class="page"><a href="#Page_290">290</a></span></p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">xiv</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXXIII.</h3> + +<p>Establishment for Insane Patients at Vanves.—Description +of the arrangements.—Englishman.—His religious madness.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_307">307</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXXIV.</h3> + +<p>Riot at the Porte St. Martin.—Prevented by a shower +of Rain.—The Mob in fine weather.—How to stop Emeutes.—Army +of Italy.—Théâtre Français.—Mademoiselle Mars +in Henriette.—Disappearance of Comedy.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_319">319</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXXV.</h3> + +<p>Soirée dansante.—Young Ladies.—Old Ladies.—Anecdote.—The +Consolations of Chaperones.—Flirtations.—Discussion +upon the variations between young Married Women +in France and in England.—Making love by deputy.—Not +likely to answer in England.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_329">329</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXXVI.</h3> + +<p>Improvements of Paris.—Introduction of Carpets and +Trottoirs.—Maisonnettes.—Not likely to answer in Paris.—The +necessity of a Porter and Porter's Lodge.—Comparative +Expenses of France and England.—Increasing +Wealth of the Bourgeoisie.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_347">347</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXXVII.</h3> + +<p>Horrible Murder.—La Morgue.—Suicides.—Vanity.—Anecdote.—Influence +of Modern Literature.—Different +appearance of Poverty in France and England.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_358">358</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXXVIII.</h3> + +<p>Opéra Comique.—"Cheval de Bronze."—"La Marquise."—Impossibility +of playing Tragedy.—Mrs. Siddons's Readings.—Mademoiselle +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">xv</a></span> +Mars has equal power.—<i>Laisser aller</i> +of the Female Performers.—Decline of Theatrical Taste +among the Fashionable.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_371">371</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XXXIX.</h3> + +<p>The Abbé de Lamennais.—Cobbett.—O'Connell.—Napoleon.—Robespierre.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_381">381</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XL.</h3> + +<p>Which Party is it ranks second in the estimation of all?—No +Caricatures against the Exiles.—Horror of a Republic.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_389">389</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XLI.</h3> + +<p>M. Dupré.—His Drawings in Greece.—L'Eglise des +Carmes.—M. Vinchon's Picture of the National Convention.—Léopold +Robert's Fishermen.—Reported cause of +his Suicide.—Roman Catholic Religion.—Mr. Daniel +O'Connell.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_400">400</a></span></p> + +<h3>LETTER XLII.</h3> + +<p>Old Maids.—Rarely to be found in France.—The reasons +for this.<span class="page"><a href="#Page_408">408</a></span></p> + +</div> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">xvi</a></span></p> + +<h2>EMBELLISHMENTS<br /> +TO<br /> +THE FIRST VOLUME.</h2> + +<hr class="l15" /> +<div class="toc"> + +<p>Louvre<span class="page"><a href="#illo1">Page 30</a></span></p> + +<p>Morning at the Tuileries Gardens<span class="page"><a href="#illo2">106</a></span></p> + +<p>"Pro Patria"<span class="page"><a href="#illo3">140</a></span></p> + +<p>"Ce soir, à la Porte St. Martin."—"J'y serai."<span class="page"><a href="#illo4">218</a></span></p> + +<p>Tuileries Gardens (on Sunday)<span class="page"><a href="#illo5">264</a></span></p> + +<p>Porte St. Martin<span class="page"><a href="#illo6">322</a></span></p> +</div> + +<hr class="l15" /> + +<p class="p2 center">P. 155, line 2, <i>read</i> given—P. 224, line 23, <i>read</i> new.</p> + +<p class="p6 center"><span class="b20">PARIS</span><br /><br /> + +<span class="b15">AND THE PARISIANS</span><br /><br /> + +<span class="b13">IN 1835.</span></p> + +<hr class="l15" /> + +<h2 class="p2">LETTER I.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">1</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Difficulty of giving a systematic account of what is doing in +France.—Pleasure of revisiting Paris after long absence.—What +is changed; what remains the same.</p> + +<p class="ltrhead">Paris, 11th April 1835.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">My dear Friend</span>,</p> + +<p>In visiting Paris it certainly was my intention +to describe in print what I saw and heard +there; and to do this as faithfully as possible, +I proposed to continue my old habit of noting in +my journal all things, great and small, in which I +took an interest. But the task frightens me. I +have been here but a few days, and I already find +myself preaching and prosing at much greater +length than I approve: I already feel that I am +involved in such a mizmaze of interesting subjects, +that to give anything like an orderly and well-arranged +digest of them, would beguile me into +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span> +attempting a work greatly beyond my power to +execute.</p> + +<p>The very most I can hope to do will be but to +"skim lightly over the surface of things;" and in +addressing myself to you, I shall feel less as if I +were about to be guilty of the presumption of +writing "a work on France," than if I threw my +notes into a less familiar form. I will then discourse +to you, as well as I may, of such things as +leave the deepest impression among the thousand +sights and sounds in the midst of which I am now +placed. Should it be our will hereafter that these +letters pass from your hands into those of the +public, I trust that nobody will be so unmerciful +as to expect that they shall make them acquainted +with everything past, present, and to come, +"respecting the destinies of this remarkable +country."</p> + +<p>It must indeed be a bold pen that attempts +to write of "Young France," as it is at present +the fashion to call it, with anything like a reasonable +degree of order and precision, while still surrounded +by all the startling novelties she has to +show. To reason of what she has done, what +she is doing, and—more difficult still—of what +she is about to do, would require a steadier +head than most persons can command, while yet +turning and twisting in all directions to see what +this Young France looks like.</p> + +<p>In truth, I am disposed to believe that whatever +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span> +I write about it will be much in the style of +the old conundrum—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1">"I saw a comet rain down hail</p> +<p>I saw a cloud" &c.</p> +</div> + +<p>And here you will remember, that though the +things seen are stated in the most simple and +veracious manner, much of the meaning is occult, +depending altogether upon the stopping or pointing +of the narrative. This stopping or pointing +I must leave to you, or any other readers I may +happen to have, and confine myself to the plain +statement of "I saw;" for though it is sufficiently +easy to see and to hear, I feel extremely doubtful +if I shall always be able to understand.</p> + +<p>It is just seven years and seven months since +I last visited the capital of the "Great Nation." +The interval is a long one, as a portion of human +life; but how short does it appear when the events +that it has brought forth are contemplated! I +left the white banner of France floating gaily +over her palaces, and I find it torn down and +trampled in the dust. The renowned lilies, for so +many ages the symbol of chivalric bravery, are +everywhere erased; and it should seem that the +once proud shield of St. Louis is soiled, broken, +and reversed for ever.</p> + +<p>But all this was old. France is grown young +again; and I am assured that, according to the +present condition of human judgment, everything +is exactly as it should be. Knighthood, glory, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span> +shields, banners, faith, loyalty, and the like, are +gone out of fashion; and they say it is only +necessary to look about me a little, to perceive +how remarkably well the present race of Frenchmen +can do without them;—an occupation, it is +added, which I shall find much more profitable +and amusing than lamenting over the mouldering +records of their ancient greatness.</p> + +<p>The good sense of this remonstrance is so evident, +that I am determined henceforth to profit +by it; remembering, moreover, that, as an Englishwoman, +I have certainly no particular call to +mourn over the fading honours of my country's +rival. So in future I shall turn my eyes as +much as I can from the tri-coloured flag—(those +three stripes are terribly false heraldry)—and +only think of amusing myself; a business never +performed anywhere with so much ease as at +Paris.</p> + +<p>Since I last saw it, I have journeyed half round +the globe; but nothing I have met in all my +wanderings has sufficed to damp the pleasure +with which I enter again this gay, bright, noisy, +restless city,—this city of the living, as beyond all +others it may be justly called.</p> + +<p>And where, in truth, can anything be found +that shall make its air of ceaseless jubilee seem +tame?—or its thousand depôts of all that is +prettiest in art, lose by comparison with any +other pretty things in the wide world? Where +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span> +do all the externals of happiness meet the eye +so readily?—or where can the heavy spirit so +easily be roused to seek and find enjoyment? +Cold, worn-out, and dead indeed must the heart +be that does not awaken to some throb of pleasure +when Paris, after long absence, comes again +in sight! For though a throne has been overturned, +the Tuileries still remain;—though the main +stock of a right royal tree has been torn up, and a +scion sprung from one of the roots, that had run, +wildly enough, to a distance, has been barricaded +in, and watered, and nurtured, and fostered into +power and strength of growth to supply its place, +the Boulevards, with their matchless aspect of +eternal holiday, are still the same. No commotion, +however violent, has yet been able to cause this +light but precious essence of Parisian attractiveness +to evaporate; and while the very foundations +of society have been shaken round them, +the old elms go on, throwing their flickering +shadows upon a crowd that—allowing for some +vagaries of the milliner and tailor—might be +taken for the very same, and no other, which has +gladdened the eye and enlivened the imagination +since first their green boughs beckoned all that +was fairest and gayest in Paris to meet together +beneath them.</p> + +<p>Whilst this is the case, and while sundry other +enchantments that may be named in their turn +continue to proclaim that Paris is Paris still, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span> +it would be silly quarrelling with something better +than bread-and-butter, did we spend the time +of our abode here in dreaming of what has been, +instead of opening our eyes and endeavouring to +be as much awake as possible to look upon all +that is.</p> + +<p class="sig"> +Farewell!</p> + +<h2>LETTER II.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span></p> +<p class="ch_open"> +Absence of the English Embassy.—Trial of the Lyons +Prisoners.—Church of the Madeleine.—Statue of Napoleon.</p> + +<p>It may be doubtful, perhaps, whether the present +period<a name="FNanchor_1" id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> be more favourable or unfavourable +for the arrival of English travellers at Paris. The +sort of interregnum which has taken place in our +embassy here deprives us of the centre round +which all that is most gay among the English +residents usually revolves; but, on the other +hand, the approaching trial of the Lyons prisoners +and their Parisian accomplices is stirring +up from the very bottom all the fermenting passions +of the nation. Every principle, however +quietly and unobtrusively treasured,—every feeling, +however cautiously concealed,—is now afloat; +and the most careless observer may expect to see, +with little trouble, the genuine temper of the +people.</p> + +<p>The genuine temper of the people?—Nay, +but this phrase must be mended ere it can convey +to you any idea of what is indeed likely to be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span> +made visible; for, as it stands, it might intimate +that the people were of one temper; and anything +less like the truth than this cannot easily +be imagined.</p> + +<p>The temper of the people of Paris upon the +subject of this "atrocious trial," as all parties not +connected with the government are pleased to +call it, varies according to their politics,—from +rage and execration to ecstasy and delight—from +indifference to enthusiasm—from triumph +to despair.</p> + +<p>It will be impossible, my friend, to ramble +up and down Paris for eight or nine weeks, with +a note-book in my hand, without recurring again +and again to a theme that meets us in every +<i>salon</i>, murmurs through the corridors of every +theatre, glares from the eyes of the republican, +sneers from the lip of the doctrinaire, and in some +shape or other crosses our path, let it lead in +what direction it may.</p> + +<p>This being inevitable, the monster must be permitted +to protrude its horns occasionally; nor +must I bear the blame should it sometimes appear +to you a very tedious and tiresome monster +indeed. Having announced that its appearance +may be frequently expected, I will leave you for +the present in the same state of expectation respecting +it that we are in ourselves; and, while +we are still safe from its threatened violence, +indulge in a little peaceable examination of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span> +the still-life part of the picture spread out before +me.</p> + +<p>The first objects that struck me as new on re-entering +Paris, or rather as changed since I last +saw them, were the Column of the Place Vendôme, +and the finished Church of the Madeleine. +Finished indeed! Did Greece ever show any +combination of stones and mortar more graceful, +more majestic than this? If she did, it was in +the days of her youth; for, poetical association +apart, and the unquestionably great pleasure of +learned investigation set aside, no ruin can possibly +meet the eye with such perfect symmetry +of loveliness, or so completely fill and satisfy the +mind, as does this modern temple.</p> + +<p>Why might not our National Gallery have risen +as noble, as simple, as beautiful as this?</p> + +<p>As for the other novelty—the statue of the +sometime Emperor of the French, I suspect that I +looked up at it with rather more approbation than +became an Englishwoman. But in truth, though +the name of Napoleon brings with it reminiscences +which call up many hostile feelings, I can never find +myself in Paris without remembering his good, +rather than his terrible actions. Perhaps, too, as +one gazes on this brazen monument of his victories, +there may be something soothing in the +recollection that the bold standard he bore never +for an instant wantoned on a British breeze.</p> + +<p>However, putting sentiment and personal feeling +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span> +of every kind apart, so much that is admirable +in Paris owes its origin to him, that his ambition +and his usurpations are involuntarily forgotten, +and the use made of his ill-gotten power almost +obliterates the lawless tyranny of the power itself. +The appearance of his statue, therefore, on the +top of the column formed of the cannon taken +by the armies of France when fighting under his +command, appeared to me to be the result of an +arrangement founded upon perfect propriety and +good taste.</p> + +<p>When his effigy was torn down some twenty +years ago by the avenging hands of the Allies, the +act was one both of moral justice and of natural +feeling; and that the rightful owners of the throne +he had seized should never have replaced it, can +hardly be matter of surprise: but that it should +now again be permitted to look down upon the +fitful fortunes of the French people, has something +of historic propriety in it which pleases +the imagination.</p> + +<p>This statue of Napoleon offers the only instance +I remember in which that most grotesque of +European habiliments, a cocked-hat, has been +immortalized in marble or in bronze with good +effect. The original statue, with its flowing outline +of Roman drapery, was erected by a feeling +of pride; but this portrait of him has the every-day +familiar look that could best satisfy affection. +Instead of causing the eye to turn away as it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span> +does from some faithful portraitures of modern +costume with positive disgust, this <i>chapeau à trois +cornes</i>, and the well-known loose <i>redingote</i>, have +that air of picturesque truth in them which is +sure to please the taste even where it does not +touch the heart.</p> + +<p>To the French themselves this statue is little +short of an idol. Fresh votive wreaths are perpetually +hung about its pedestal; and little draperies +of black crape, constantly renewed, show +plainly how fondly his memory is still cherished.</p> + +<p>While Napoleon was still among them, the halo +of his military glory, bright as it was, could not so +dazzle the eyes of the nation but that some portentous +spots were discerned even in the very +nucleus of that glory itself; but now that it +shines upon them across his tomb, it is gazed at +with an enthusiasm of devoted affection which +mixes no memory of error with its regrets.</p> + +<p>It would, I think, be very difficult to find a +Frenchman, let his party be what it might, who +would speak of Napoleon with disrespect.</p> + +<p>I one day passed the foot of his gorgeous pedestal +in company with a legitimate <i>sans reproche</i>, who, +raising his eyes to the statue, said—"Notre position, +Madame Trollope, est bien dure: nous avons +perdu le droit d'être fidèles, sans avoir plus celui +d'être fiers."</p> + +<h2>LETTER III.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Slang.—Les Jeunes Gens de Paris.—La Jeune France.—Rococo.—Décousu.</p> + +<p>I suppose that, among all people and at all times, +a certain portion of what we call slang will insinuate +itself into familiar colloquial intercourse, +and sometimes even dare to make its unsanctioned +accents heard from the tribune and the stage. It +appears to me, I confess, that France is at present +taking considerable liberties with her mother-tongue. +But this is a subject which requires for +its grave discussion a native critic, and a learned +one too. I therefore can only venture distantly and +doubtingly to allude to it, as one of the points at +which it appears to me that innovation is visibly +and audibly at work.</p> + +<p>I know it may be said that every additional +word, whether fabricated or borrowed, adds something +to the riches of the language; and no doubt +it does so. But there is a polished grace, a finished +elegance in the language of France, as registered +in the writings of her Augustan age, which may +well atone for the want of greater copiousness, +with which it has been sometimes reproached. To +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span> +increase its strength, by giving it coarseness, would +be like exchanging a high-mettled racer for a +dray-horse. A brewer would tell you, that you +gained in power what you lost in grace: it may +be so; but there are many, I think, even in this +age of operatives and utilitarians, who would regret +the change.</p> + +<p>This is a theme, however, as I have said before, +on which I should not feel myself justified in saying +much. None should pretend to examine, or at +any rate to discuss critically, the niceties of idiom +in a language that is not native to them. But, +distinct from any such presumptuous examination, +there are words and phrases lawfully within the +reach of foreign observation, which strike me as remarkable +at the present day, either from their frequent +recurrence, or for something of unusual emphasis +in the manner in which they are employed.</p> + +<p><i>Les jeunes gens de Paris</i> appears to me to be +one of these. Translate it, and you find nothing +but "the young men of Paris;" which should +seem to have no more imposing meaning than "the +young men of London," or of any other metropolis. +But hear it spoken at Paris—Mercy on me! it +sounds like a thunderbolt. It is not only loud +and blustering, however; you feel that there is +something awful—nay, mystical, implied by the +phrase. It appears solemnly to typify the power, +the authority, the learning—ay, and the wisdom +too, of the whole nation. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span></p> + +<p><i>La Jeune France</i> is another of these cabalistic +forms of speech, by which everybody seems expected +to understand something great, terrible, volcanic, +and sublime. At present, I confess that +both of these, pronounced as they always are with +a sort of mysterious emphasis, which seems to say +that "more is meant than meets the ear," produce +rather a paralysing effect upon me. I am +conscious that I do not clearly comprehend all the +meaning with which they are pregnant, and yet I +am afraid to ask, lest the explanation should prove +either more unintelligible or more alarming than +even the words themselves. I hope, however, that +ere long I shall grow more intelligent or less timid; +and whenever this happens, and I conceive that I +fully comprehend their occult meaning, I will not +fail to transmit it faithfully to you.</p> + +<p>Besides these phrases, and some others that I +may perhaps mention hereafter as difficult to understand, +I have learned a word quite new to me, +and which I suspect has but very recently been +introduced into the French language; at least, it +is not to be found in the dictionaries, and I therefore +presume it to be one of those happy inventions +which are permitted from time to time to +enrich the power of expression. How the Academy +of former days might have treated it, I know +not; but it seems to me to express a great deal, +and might at this time, I think, be introduced very +conveniently into our own language: at any rate, it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span> +may often help me, I think, as a very useful adjective. +This new-born word is "<i>rococo</i>," and appears +to me to be applied by the young and innovating +to everything which bears the stamp of the taste, +principles, or feelings of time past. That part of +the French population to whom the epithet of +<i>rococo</i> is thus applied, may be understood to contain +all varieties of old-fashionism, from the gentle +advocate for laced coats and diamond sword-knots, +up to the high-minded venerable loyalist, who +only loves his rightful king the better because +he has no means left to requite his love. Such is +the interpretation of <i>rococo</i> in the mouth of a +doctrinaire: but if a republican speaks it, he +means that it should include also every gradation +of orderly obedience, even to the powers that be; +and, in fact, whatever else may be considered as +essentially connected either with law or gospel.</p> + +<p>There is another adjective which appears also +to recur so frequently as fully to merit, in the +same manner, the distinction of being considered +as fashionable. It is, however, a good old legitimate +word, admirably expressive too, and at +present of more than ordinary utility. This is +"<i>décousu</i>;" and it seems to be the epithet now given +by the sober-minded to all that smacks of the +rambling nonsense of the new school of literature, +and of all those fragments of opinions which hang +so loosely about the minds of the young men who +discourse fashionably of philosophy at Paris. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span></p> + +<p>Were the whole population to be classed under +two great divisions, I doubt if they could be more +expressively designated than by these two appellations, +the <i>décousu</i> and the <i>rococo</i>. I have already +stated who it is that form the <i>rococo</i> class: +the <i>décousu</i> division may be considered as embracing +the whole of the ultra-romantic school of +authors, be they novelists, dramatists, or poets; +all shades of republicans, from the avowed eulogists +of the "spirited Robespierre" to the gentler +disciples of Lamennais; most of the schoolboys, +and all the <i>poissardes</i> of Paris.</p> + +<h2>LETTER IV.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Théâtre Français.—Mademoiselle Mars.—Elmire.—Charlotte +Brown.—Extract from a Sermon.</p> + +<p>It was not without some expectation of having +"Guilty of rococoism" recorded against me, that +I avowed, very soon after my arrival, the ardent +desire I felt of turning my eyes from all that was +new, that I might once again see Mars perform +the part of Elmire in the "Tartuffe."</p> + +<p>I was not quite without fear, too, that I was +running some risk of effacing the delightful recollections +of the past, by contemplating the change +which seven years had made. I almost feared to +let my children behold a reality that might destroy +their <i>beau idéal</i> of the only perfect actress still +remaining on the stage.</p> + +<p>But "Tartuffe" was on the bills: it might not +soon appear again; an early dinner was hastily +dispatched, and once more I found myself before +the curtain which I had so often seen rise to Talma, +Duchenois, and Mars.</p> + +<p>I perceived with great pleasure on reaching the +theatre, that the Parisians, though fickle in all else, +were still faithful in their adoration of Mademoiselle +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span> +Mars: for now, for perhaps the five hundredth representation +of her Elmire, the barricades were as +necessary, the <i>queue</i> as long and as full, as when, +fifteen years ago, I was first told to remark the +wonderful power of attraction possessed by an +actress already greatly past the first bloom of +youth and beauty. Were the Parisians as defensible +in their ordinary love of change as they +are in this singular proof of fidelity, it would be +well. It is, however, strange witchery.</p> + +<p>That the ear should be gratified, and the feelings +awakened, by the skilful intonations of a +voice the sweetest perhaps that ever blest a +mortal, is quite intelligible; but that the eye +should follow with such unwearied delight every +look and movement of a woman, not only old—for +that does sometimes happen at Paris—but one +known to be so from one end of Europe to the +other, is certainly a singular phenomenon. Yet +so it is; and could you see her, you would understand +why, though not how, it is so. There is still +a charm, a grace, in every movement of Mademoiselle +Mars, however trifling and however +slight, which instantly captivates the eye, and +forbids it to wander to any other object—even +though that object be young and lovely.</p> + +<p>Why is it that none of the young heads can +learn to turn like hers? Why can no arms move +with the same beautiful and easy elegance? Her +very fingers, even when gloved, seem to aid her +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span> +expression; and the quietest and least posture-studying +of actresses contrives to make the most +trifling and ordinary movement assist in giving +effect to her part.</p> + +<p>I would willingly consent to be dead for a few +hours, if I could meanwhile bring Molière to life, +and let him see Mars play one of his best-loved +characters. How delicious would be his pleasure +in beholding the creature of his own fancy thus +exquisitely alive before him; and of marking, +moreover, the thrill that makes itself heard along +the closely-packed rows of the parterre, when his +wit, conveyed by this charming conductor, runs +round the house like the touch of electricity! Do +you think that the best smile of Louis le Grand +could be worth this?</p> + +<p>Few theatrical pieces can, I think, be calculated +to give less pleasure than that of "Charlotte +Brown," which followed the "Tartuffe;" but as the +part of Charlotte is played by Mademoiselle Mars, +people will stay to see it. I repented however that +I did not go, for it made me cross and angry.</p> + +<p>Such an actress as Mars should not be asked +to try a <i>tour de force</i> in order to make an abortive +production effective. And what else can it be +called, if her touching pathos and enchanting +grace are brought before the public, to make them +endure a platitude that would have been hissed +into oblivion ere it had well seen light without +her? It is hardly fair to expect that a performer +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span> +should create as well as personate the chief +character of a piece; but Mademoiselle Mars +certainly does nothing less, when she contrives to +excite sympathy and interest for a low-born and +low-minded woman, who has managed to make a +great match by telling a great falsehood. Yet +"Charlotte Brown" is worth seeing for the sake of a +certain tragic look given by this wonderful actress +at the moment when her falsehood is discovered. +It is no exaggeration to say, that Mrs. Siddons +never produced an expression of greater power.</p> + +<p>It is long since I have seen any theatre so +crowded.</p> + +<p>I remember many years ago hearing what I +thought an excellent sermon from a venerable +rector, who happened to have a curate more remarkable +for the conscientious manner in which +he performed his duty to the parish, and the judicious +selection of his discourses, than for the excellence +of his original sermons. "It is the +duty of a minister," said the old man, "to address +the congregation which shall assemble to hear him +with the most impressive and most able eloquence +that it is within the compass of his power to use; +and far better is it that the approved wisdom of +those who have passed away be read from the +pulpit, than that the weak efforts of an ungifted +preacher should fall wearily and unprofitably on +the ears of his congregation. The fact that his +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">21</a></span> +discourse is manuscript, instead of printed, will +hardly console them for the difference."</p> + +<p>Do you not think—with all reverence be it +spoken—that the same reasoning might be very +usefully addressed to the managers of theatres, +not in France only, but all the world over? If it +cost too much to have a good new piece, would it +not be better to have a good old one?</p> + +<h2>LETTER V.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Exhibition of Living Artists at the Louvre.—The Deluge.—Poussin +and Martin.—Portraits.—Appearance of the +company.</p> + +<p>I have been so little careful about dates and +seasons, as totally to have forgotten, or rather neglected +to learn, that the period of our arriving at +Paris was that of the Exhibition of Living Artists +at the Louvre: and it is not easy to describe the +feeling produced by entering the gallery, with the +expectation of seeing what I had been used to see +there, and finding what was, at least, so very +different.</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, the exhibition is a very fine one, +and so greatly superior to any I had heretofore +seen of the modern French school, that we soon +had the consolation of finding ourselves amused, +and I may say delighted, notwithstanding our +disappointment.</p> + +<p>But surely there never was a device hit upon +so little likely to propitiate the feelings which +generate applause, as this of covering up Poussin, +Rubens, Raphael, Titian, and Correggio, by hanging +before them the fresh results of modern palettes. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span> +It is indeed a most un-coquettish mode of +extorting attention.</p> + +<p>There are some pictures of the Louvre Gallery +in particular, with which my children are well +acquainted, either by engravings or description, +whose eclipse produced a very sad effect. "The +Deluge" of Poussin is one of these. Perhaps it +may have been my brother's striking description +of this picture which made it pre-eminently an +object of interest to us. You may remember that +Mr. Milton, in his elegant and curious little volume +on the Fine Arts, written at Paris just before the +breaking up of Napoleon's collection, says in +speaking of it—"Colouring was unquestionably +Poussin's least excellence; yet in this collection +there is one of his pictures—the Deluge—in which +the effect produced by the mere colouring is most +singular and powerful. The air is burdened and +heavy with water; the earth, where it is not as +yet overwhelmed, seems torn to pieces by its +violence: the very light of heaven is absorbed +and lost." I give you this passage, because I +remember no picture described with equal brevity, +yet brought so powerfully before the imagination +of the reader.</p> + +<p>Can the place where one comes to look for this +be favourable for hanging our illustrious countryman's +representation of the same subject? It is +doing him a most ungratifying honour; and were I +Mr. Martin, or any other painter living, I would +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span> +not consent to be exposed to the invidious comparisons +which must inevitably ensue from such +an injudicious arrangement.</p> + +<p>How exceedingly disagreeable, for instance, must +it be for the artists—who, I believe, not unfrequently +indulge themselves by hovering under the incognito of +apparent indifference near their favourite +works—to overhear such remarks as those +to which I listened yesterday in that part of the +gallery where Le Sueur's St. Brunos hang!—"Certainly, +the bows on that lady's dress are of a +delicate blue," said the critic; "and so is the +drapery of Le Sueur, which, for my sins, I happen +to know is hid just under it.... Would one wish +a better contrast to what it hides, than that unmeaning +smile—that cold, smooth, varnished skin,—those +lifeless limbs, and the whole unspeakable +tameness of this thing, called <i>portrait d'une dame</i>?"</p> + +<p>He spoke truly; yet was there but little point in +what he said, for it might have referred with +equal justice to many a pretty lady doomed to +simper for ever in her gilded frame.</p> + +<p>On the whole, however, portraits are much less +oppressively predominating than with us; and +among them are many whose size, composition, +and exquisite style of finishing redeem them +altogether from the odium of being <i>de trop</i> in the +collection. I cannot but wish that this style of +portrait-painting may find favour and imitation +in England. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span></p> + +<p>Lawrence is gone; and though Gérard on this +side of the water, and indeed too many to rehearse +on both, are left, whose portraitures of the human +face are admirable; true to nature; true to art; +true to expression,—true, even to the want of it; +I am greatly inclined to believe that the enormous +sums annually expended on these clever portraits +contribute more to lower than to raise the art in +popularity and in the genuine estimation of the +public. The sums thus lavished may be termed +patronage, certainly; but it is patronage that +bribes the artist to the restraint, and often to the +destruction, of his genius.</p> + +<p>Is there, in fact, any one who can honestly +deny that a splendid exhibition-room, crowded +with ladies and gentlemen on canvass, as large as +life, is a lounge of great tediousness and inanity?</p> + +<p>We may feel some satisfaction in recognising at +a glance the eyes, nose, mouth, and chin of many +of our friends and acquaintance,—nay, our most +critical judgment may often acknowledge that +these familiar features are registered with equal +truth and skill; but this will not prevent the exhibition +from being very dull. Nor is the thing +much mended when each portrait, or pair of portraits, +has been withdrawn from the gaudy throng, +and hung up for ever and for ever before the eyes +of their family and friends. The fair lady, sweetly +smiling in one division of the apartment, and the +well-dressed gentleman looking <i>distingué</i> in another, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span> +contribute as little at home as they did when suspended +on the walls of the academy to the real +pleasure and amusement of the beholder.</p> + +<p>At the exhibition this year at the Louvre are +many exquisite full-length portraits in oil, of +which the canvass measures from eighteen inches +to a foot in height, and from a foot to ten inches +in width. The composition and style of these +beautiful little pictures are often such as to detain +one long before them, even though one does not +recognise in them the features of an acquaintance. +Their unobtrusive size must prevent their ever +being disagreeably predominant in the decoration +of a room; while their delicate and elaborate finish, +and the richness of their highly-studied composition, +will well reward attention; and even the +closest examination, when directed to them, either +by politeness, affection, or connoisseurship, can +never be disappointed.</p> + +<p>The Catalogue of the exhibition notices all the +pictures which have been either ordered or purchased +by the king or any of the royal family; +and the number is so considerable as to show +plainly that the most liberal and widely-extended +patronage of art is a systematic object with the +government.</p> + +<p>The gold medal of the year has been courteously +bestowed upon Mr. Martin for his picture of +the Deluge. Had I been the judge, I should have +awarded it to Stuben's Battle of Waterloo. That +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span> +the faculty of imagination is one of the highest +requisites for a painter is most certain; and that +Mr. Martin pre-eminently possesses it, not less so. +But imagination, though it can do much, cannot +do all; and common sense is at least equally important +in the formation of a finished artist. The +painter of the great day of Waterloo has both. +His imagination has enabled him to dive into the +very hearts and souls of the persons he has depicted. +Passion speaks in every line; and common +sense has taught him, that, however powerful—nay, +vehement, might be the expression he sought +to produce, it must be obtained rather by the patient +and faithful imitation of Nature than by a +bold defiance of her.</p> + +<p>The Assassination of the Duc de Guise, by M. +Delaroche, is an admirable and highly popular +work. It requires some patient perseverance to +contest inch by inch the slow approach to the +place where this exquisite piece of finishing is hung—but +it well rewards the time and labour. One +or two lovely little pictures by Franquelin made +me envy those who have power to purchase, and +sigh to think that they will probably go into +private collections, where I shall never see them +more. There are, indeed, many pictures so very +good, that I think it possible the judges may have +relieved themselves from the embarrassment of +declaring which was best, by politely awarding +the palm to the stranger. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span></p> + +<p>I could indulge myself, did I not fear to weary +you, by dwelling much longer upon my agreeable +recollections of this extensive exhibition—containing, +by the way, 2,174 pictures,—and might particularise +many very admirable works. Nevertheless, +I must repeat, that thus hiding the precious labours +of all schools, and of all ages of painting, by the +promiscuous productions of the living artists of +France during the last year, is a most injudicious +device for winning for them the golden opinions of +those who throng from all quarters of the world +to visit the Louvre.</p> + +<p>This exhibition reaches to about three-fourths +of the gallery; and where it ceases, a grim curtain, +suspended across it, conceals the precious labours +of the Spanish and Italian schools, which occupy +the farther end. Can anything be imagined more +tantalising than this? And where is the living +artist who could stand his ground against such +cruel odds?</p> + +<p>To render the effect more striking still, this +dismal curtain is permitted so to hang as to leave +a few inches between its envious amplitude and +the rich wall—suffering the mellow browns of a +well-known Murillo to meet and mock the eye. +Certainly not all the lecturers of all the academies +extant could point out a more effectual manner +of showing the modern French artist wherein he +chiefly fails: let us hope he will profit by it.</p> + +<p>As I am writing of Paris, it must be almost +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span> +superfluous to say that the admission to this collection +is gratis.</p> + +<p>I cannot quit the subject without adding a few +words respecting the company, or at least a part +of it, whose appearance, I thought, gave very unequivocal +marks of the march of mind and of +indecorum;—for a considerable sprinkling of very +particularly greasy citizens and citizenesses made +itself felt and seen at every point where the critical +crowd was thickest. But—</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"Sweetest nut hath sourest rind;"</p> + +<p>and it were treason here, I suppose, to doubt that +such a proportion of intellect and refinement lies +hid under the soiled <i>blouse</i> and time-worn petticoat, +as is at least equal to any that we may hope +to find enveloped in lawn, and lace, and broadcloth.</p> + +<p>It is an incontrovertible fact, I think, that when +the immortals of Paris raised the barricades in the +streets, they pulled them down, more or less, in +society. But this is an evil which those who look +beyond the present hour for their sources of joy +and sorrow need not deeply lament. Nature herself—at +least such as she shows herself, when man, +forsaking the forest, agrees with his fellows to congregate +in cities—Nature herself will take care to +set this right again.</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"Strength will be lord of imbecility;"</p> + +<p>and were all men equal in the morning, they would +not go to rest till some amongst them had been +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span> +thoroughly made to understand that it was their +lot to strew the couches of the rest. Such is the +law of nature; and mere brute numerical strength +will no more enable a mob to set it aside, than it +will enable the ox or the elephant to send us to +plough, or draw out our teeth to make their young +one's toys.</p> + +<p>For the present moment, however, some of the +rubbish that the commotion of "the Ordonnances" +stirred up may still be seen floating about on the +surface; and it is difficult to observe without a +smile in what chiefly consists the liberty which +these immortals have so valiantly bled to acquire. +We may truly say of the philosophical population +of Paris, that "they are thankful for small +matters;" one of the most remarkable of their +newly-acquired rights being certainly the privilege +of presenting themselves dirty, instead of +clean, before the eyes of their magnates.</p> + +<div class="figcenter p6" style="width: 398px;"><a name="illo1" id="illo1"></a> +<img src="images/ill049.jpg" width="398" height="600" alt="Louvre" /> +<p class="s05">Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu.</p> +<p class="caption smcap">Louvre.</p> +<p class="caption s05">London, Published by Richard Bentley, 1835.</p> +</div> + +<p>I am sure you must remember in days of yore,—that +is to say, before the last revolution,—how +very agreeable a part of the spectacle at the +Louvre and in the Tuileries Gardens was constituted +by the people,—not the ladies and gentlemen—they +look pretty much the same everywhere; +but by the careful coquetry of the pretty +costumes, now a <i>cauchoise</i>, and now a <i>toque</i>,—the +spruce neatness of the men who attended +them,—nay, even by the tight and tidy trimness +of the "wee things" that in long waist, silk apron, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span> +snow-white cap, and faultless <i>chaussure</i>, trotted +beside them. All these added greatly to the pleasantness +and gaiety of the scene. But now, till +the fresh dirt (not the fresh gloss) of the Three +Days' labour be worn off, dingy jackets, uncomely +<i>casquettes</i>, ragged <i>blouses</i>, and ill-favoured round-eared +caps, that look as if they did duty night and +day, must all be tolerated; and in this toleration +appears to consist at present the principal external +proof of the increased liberty of the Parisian +mob.</p> + +<h2>LETTER VI.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Society.—Morality.—False Impressions and False Reports.—Observations +from a Frenchman on a recent publication.</p> + +<p>Much as I love the sights of Paris,—including +as we must under this term all that is great and +enduring, as well as all that is for ever changing +and for ever new,—I am more earnestly bent, as +you will readily believe, upon availing myself of +all my opportunities for listening to the conversation +within the houses, than on contemplating all +the marvels that may be seen without.</p> + +<p>Joyfully, therefore, have I welcomed the attention +and kindness that have been offered me in +various quarters; and I have already the satisfaction +of finding myself on terms of most pleasant +and familiar intercourse with a variety of very +delightful people, many of them highly distinguished, +and, happily for me, varying in their +opinions of all things both in heaven and earth, +from the loftiest elevation of the <i>rococo</i>, to the +lowest profundity of the <i>décousu</i> school.</p> + +<p>And here let me pause, to assure you, and any +other of my countrymen and countrywomen whose +ears I can reach, that excursions to Paris, be they +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span> +undertaken with what spirit of enterprise they +may, and though they may be carried through +with all the unrestrained expense that English +wealth can permit, yet without the power by some +means or other of entering into good French society, +they are nothing worth.</p> + +<p>It is true, that there is something most exceedingly +exhilarating to the spirits in the mere external +novelty and cheerfulness of the objects which +surround a stranger on first entering Paris. That +indescribable air of gaiety which makes every +sunshiny day look like a fête; the light hilarity of +spirit that seems to pervade all ranks; the cheerful +tone of voice, the sparkling glances of the numberless +bright eyes; the gardens, the flowers, the +statues of Paris,—all together produce an effect +very like enchantment.</p> + +<p>But "use lessens marvel;" and when the first +delightful excitement is over, and we begin to feel +weary from its very intensity, the next step is +backward into rationality, low spirits, and grumbling.</p> + +<p>From that moment the English tourist talks of +nothing but wide rivers, magnificent bridges, prodigious +<i>trottoirs</i>, unrivalled drains, and genuine +port. It is at this stage that the traveller, in +order to continue his enjoyment and bring it to +perfection, should remit his examination of the +exterior of noble <i>hôtels</i>, and endeavour to be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span> +admitted to the much more enduring enchantment +which prevails within them.</p> + +<p>So much has already been said and written on +the grace and charm of the French language in +conversation, that it is quite needless to dwell upon +it. That <i>good things</i> can be said in no other +idiom with equal grace, is a fact that can neither +be controverted nor more firmly established than it +is already. Happily, the art of expressing a clever +thought in the best possible words did not die +with Madame de Sévigné; nor has it yet been +destroyed by revolution of any kind.</p> + +<p>It is not only for the amusement of an hour, +however, that I would recommend the assiduous +cultivation of good French society to the English. +Great and important improvements in our national +manners have already arisen from the intercourse +which long peace has permitted. Our dinner-tables +are no longer disgraced by inebriety; nor +are our men and women, when they form a party +expressly for the purpose of enjoying each other's +society, separated by the law of the land during +half the period for which the social meeting has +been convened.</p> + +<p>But we have much to learn still; and the general +tone of our daily associations might be yet farther +improved, did the best specimens of Parisian habits +and manners furnish the examples.</p> + +<p>It is not from the large and brilliant parties +which recur in every fashionable mansion, perhaps, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span> +three or four times in each season, that I think +we could draw much improvement. A fine party +at Lady A——'s in Grosvenor Square, is not more +like a fine party at Lady B——'s in Berkeley +Square, than a fine party in Paris is to one in London. +There are abundance of pretty women, handsome +men, satin, gauze, velvet, diamonds, chains, +stars, moustaches, and imperials at both, with +perhaps very little deserving the name of rational +enjoyment in either.</p> + +<p>I suspect, indeed, that we have rather the advantage +on these crowded occasions, for we more +frequently change the air by passing from one +room to another when we eat our ices; and as +the tulip-tinctured throng enjoy this respite from +suffocation by detachments, they have often not +only opportunity to breathe, but occasionally to +converse also, for several minutes together, without +danger of being dislodged from their standing-ground.</p> + +<p>It is not, therefore, at the crowded roll-calls +of all their acquaintance that I would look for +anything rational or peculiar in the <i>salons</i> of +Paris, but in the daily and constant intercourse of +familiar companionship. This is enjoyed with a +degree of pleasant ease—an absence of all pomp, +pride, and circumstance, of which unhappily we +have no idea. Alas! we must know by special +printed announcement a month beforehand that +our friend is "at home,"—that liveried servants +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span> +will be in attendance, and her mansion blazing +with light,—before we can dare venture to pass an +evening hour in her drawing-room. How would +a London lady stare, if some half-dozen—though +perhaps among the most chosen favourites of her +visiting-list—were to walk unbidden into her +presence, in bonnets and shawls, between the +hours of eight and eleven! And how strangely +new would it seem, were the pleasantest and most +coveted engagements of the week, formed without +ceremony and kept without ostentation, to +arise from a casual meeting at the beginning +of it!</p> + +<p>It is this ease, this habitual absence of ceremony +and parade, this national enmity to constraint and +tediousness of all kinds, which renders the tone of +French manners so infinitely more agreeable than +our own. And the degree in which this is the +case can only be guessed at by those who, by some +happy accident or other, possess a real and effective +"open sesame!" for the doors of Paris.</p> + +<p>With all the superabundance of vanity ascribed +to the French, they certainly show infinitely less +of it in their intercourse with their fellow-creatures +than we do. I have seen a countess, whose title +was of a dozen fair descents, open the external +door of her apartment, and welcome the guests +who appeared at it with as much grace and elegance +as if a triple relay of tall fellows who wore +her colours had handed their names from hall to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span> +drawing-room. Yet in this case there was no +want of wealth. Coachman, footman, abigail, and +doubtless all fitting etceteras, owned her as their +sovereign lady and mistress. But they happened +to have been sent hither and thither, and it never +entered her imagination that her dignity could be +compromised by her appearing without them. In +short, the vanity of the French does not show +itself in little things; and it is exactly for this +reason that their enjoyment of society is stripped +of so much of the anxious, sensitive, ostentatious, +self-seeking etiquette which so heavily encumbers +our own.</p> + +<p>There are some among us, my friend, who +might say of this testimony to the charm of +French society, that there was danger in praising, +and pointing out as an example to be followed, +the manners of a people whose morality is considered +as so much less strict than our own. Could +I think that, by thus approving what is agreeable, +I could lessen by a single hair's-breadth the +interval which we believe exists between us in +this respect, I would turn my approval to reproof, +and my superficial praise to deep-dyed reprobation: +but to any who should express such +a fear, I would reply by assuring them that it +would require a very different species of intimacy +from any to which I had the honour of being +admitted, in order to authorise, from personal +observation, any attack upon the morals of Parisian +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span> +society. More scrupulous and delicate refinement +in <i>the tone of manners</i> can neither be +found nor wished for anywhere; and I do very +strongly suspect, that many of the pictures of +French depravity which have been brought home +to us by our travellers, have been made after +sketches taken in scenes and circles to which the +introductions I so strongly recommend to my +countrywomen could by no possibility lead them. +It is not of such that I can be supposed to +speak.</p> + +<p>Apropos of false impressions and false reports, +I may repeat to you an anecdote which I heard +yesterday evening. The little committee in which +it was related consisted of at least a dozen persons, +and it appeared that I was myself the only +one to whom it was new.</p> + +<p>"It is rather more than two years ago," said +the speaker, "that we had amongst us an English +gentleman, who avowed that it was his purpose to +write on France, not as other men write—superficially, +respecting truths that lie obvious to ordinary +eyes—but with a research that should make him +acquainted with all things above, about, and underneath. +He professed this intention to more +than one dear friend; and more than one dear +friend took the trouble of tracing him in his chase +after hidden truths. Not long after his arrival +among us, this gentleman became intimately acquainted +with a lady more celebrated for the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span> +variety of her friendships with men of letters +than for the endurance of them. This lady received +the attentions of the stranger with distinguished +kindness, and, among other proofs of +regard, undertook to purvey for him all sorts of +private anecdotes, great and little, that from the +mass he might form an average estimate of the +people; assuring him at the same time, that no +one in Paris was more <i>au fait</i> of its secret histories +than herself. This," continued my informant, +"might be, and I believe was, very particularly +true; and the English traveller might have been +justified in giving to his countrymen and countrywomen +as much insight into such mysteries as he +thought good for them: but when he published +the venomous slanders of this female respecting +persons not only of the highest honour, but of the +most unspotted reputation, he did what will blast +his name as long as his charlatan book is remembered." +Such were the indignant words, and +there was nothing in the tone with which they +were uttered to weaken their expression.</p> + +<p>I tell you the tale as I heard it; but I will not +repeat much more that was said on the same subject, +nor will I give any A..., B..., or +C... hints as to the names so freely +mentioned.</p> + +<p>Some degree of respectability ought certainly to +attach to those from whom important information +is sought respecting the morals and manners of a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span> +country, when it is the intention of the inquirer +that his observations and statements upon it +should become authority to the whole civilized +world.</p> + +<p>The above conversation, however, was brought +to a laughing conclusion by Madame C——, who, +addressing her husband as he was seconding the +angry eloquence I have repeated, said, "Calmez-vous +donc, mon ami: après tout, le tableau fait +par M. le Voyageur des dames Anglaises n'a rien +à nous faire mourir de jalousie."</p> + +<p>I suspect that neither you nor any other lady +of England will feel disposed to contradict her.</p> + +<p class="sig">Adieu!</p> + +<h2>LETTER VII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Alarm created by the Trial of the Lyons Prisoners.—Visits +from a Republican and from a Doctrinaire: reassured +by the promises of safety and protection received from +the latter.</p> + +<p>We have really had something very like a +panic amongst us, from the rumours in circulation +respecting this terrible trial, which is now +rapidly approaching. Many people think that +fearful scenes may be expected to take place in +Paris when it begins.</p> + +<p>The newspapers of all parties are so full of +the subject, that there is little else to be found +in them; and all those, of whatever colour, which +are opposed to the government, describe the manner +in which the proceedings are to be managed, +as the most tyrannical exercise of power ever +practised in modern Europe.</p> + +<p>The legitimate royalists declare it to be illegal, +inasmuch as the culprits have a right to be tried +by a jury of their peers—the citizens of France; +whereas it appears that this their chartered +right is denied them, and that no other judge +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span> +or jury is to be permitted in their case than the +peers of France.</p> + +<p>Whether this accusation will be satisfactorily +answered, I know not; but there certainly does +appear to be something rather plausible, at least, +in the objection. Nevertheless, it is not very difficult +to see that the 28th Article of the Charter +may be made to answer it, which says,—</p> +<div class="blockquot"> +<p> +"The Chamber of Peers takes cognizance of +high-treason, and of attempts against the +safety of the state, <i>which shall be defined +by law</i>."</p> +</div> + +<p>Now, though this <i>defining by law</i> appears, by +what I can learn, to be an operation not yet quite +completed, there seems to be something so very +like high-treason in some of the offences for which +these prisoners are to be tried, that the first clause +of the article may do indifferently well to cover it.</p> + +<p>The republican journals, pamphlets, and publications +of all sorts, however, treat the whole +business of their detention and trial as the most +tremendous infringement of the newly-acquired +rights of Young France; and they say—nay, they +do swear, that crowned king, created peers, and +placed ministers never dared to venture upon anything +so tyrannical as this.</p> + +<p>All that the unfortunate Louis Seize ever did, +or suffered to be done—all that the banished +Charles Dix ever threatened to do—never "roared +so loud, and thundered in the index," as does this +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span> +deed without a name about to be perpetrated by +King Louis-Philippe the First.</p> + +<p>At last, however, the horrible thing has been +christened, and <span class="smcap">Procès Monstre</span> is its name. +This is a happy device, and will save a world of +words. Before it received this expressive appellation, +every paragraph concerning it began by a +roundabout specification of the horrific business +they were about to speak of; but since this lucky +name has been hit upon, all prefatory eloquence +is become unnecessary: <i>Procès Monstre!</i> simply +<i>Procès Monstre!</i> expresses all it could say in two +words; and whatever follows may safely become +matter of news and narrative respecting it.</p> + +<p>This news, and these narratives, however, still +vary considerably, and leave one in a very vacillating +state of mind as to what may happen next. +One account states that Paris is immediately to be +put under martial law, and all foreigners, except +those attached to the different embassies, civilly +requested to depart. Another declares all this to +be a weak invention of the enemy; but hints that +it is probable a pretty strong <i>cordon</i> of troops +will surround the city, to keep watch day and +night, lest <i>les jeunes gens</i> of the metropolis, in +their mettlesome mood, should seek to wash out +in the blood of their fellow-citizens the stain +which the illegitimate birth of the monster has +brought upon France. Others announce that a +devoted body of patriots have sworn to sacrifice a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span> +hecatomb of National Guards, to atone for an +abomination which many believe to originate with +them.</p> + +<p>Not a few declare that the trial will never take +place; that the government, audacious as they +say it is, dare do no more than hold up the effigy +of the monster to frighten the people, and that a +general amnesty will end the business. In truth, +it would be a tedious task to record one half of +the tales that are in circulation on this subject: +but I do assure you, that listening to the awful +note of preparation for all that is to be done at +the Luxembourg is quite enough to make one +nervous, and many English families have already +thought it prudent to leave the city.</p> + +<p>At one moment we were really worked into a +state very nearly approaching terror by the vehement +eloquence of a fiery-hot republican who paid +us a visit. I ventured to lead to the terrible subject +by asking him if he thought the approaching +political trials likely to produce any result beyond +their disagreeable influence on the convenience of +the parties concerned; but I really repented my +temerity when I saw the cloud which gathered +on his brow as he replied:—</p> + +<p>"Result! What do you call result, madam? +Is the burning indignation of millions of Frenchmen +a result? Are the execrations of the noble +beings enslaved, imprisoned, tortured, trampled on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span> +by tyranny, a result? Are the groans of their +wives and mothers—are the tears of their bereaved +children—a result?—Yes, yes, there will +be results enough! They are yet to come, but +come they will; and when they do, think you +that the next revolution will be one of three +days? Do your countrymen think so? does Europe +think so? There has been another revolution, +to which it will more resemble."</p> + +<p>He looked rather ashamed of himself, I thought, +when he had concluded his tirade,—and well he +might: but there was such a hideous tone of prophecy +in this, that I actually trembled as I listened +to him, and, all jesting apart, thoughts of passports +to be signed and conveyances to be hired +were arranging themselves very seriously in my +brain. But before we went out for the evening, +all these gloomy meditations were most agreeably +dispersed by a visit from a staid old doctrinaire, +who was not only a soberer politician, but one considerably +more likely to know what he was talking +about than the youth who had harangued us +in the morning.</p> + +<p>Anxious to have my fears either confirmed or +removed, I hastened to tell him, half in jest, half +in earnest, that we were beginning to think of +taking an abrupt leave of Paris. "And why?" +said he.</p> + +<p>I stated very seriously my newly-awakened +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span> +fears; at which he laughed heartily, and with an +air of such unfeigned amusement, that I was +cured at once.</p> + +<p>"Whom can you have been listening to?" +said he.</p> + +<p>"I will not give up my authority," I replied +with proper diplomatic discretion; "but I will +tell you exactly what a gentleman who has been +here this morning has been saying to us." And +I did so precisely as I have repeated it to you; +upon which he laughed more heartily than before, +and rubbing his hands as if perfectly delighted, he +exclaimed, "Delicious! And you really have been +fortunate enough to fall in with one of these <i>enfans +perdus</i>? I really wish you joy. But do not +set off immediately: listen first to another view +of the case." I assured him that this was exactly +what I wished to do, and very truly declared that +he could do me no greater favour than to put me +<i>au fait</i> of the real state of affairs.</p> + +<p>"Willingly will I do so," said he; "and be +assured I will not deceive you." Whereupon I +closed the <i>croisée</i>, that no rattling wheels might +disturb us, and prepared to listen.</p> + +<p>"My good lady," he began with great kindness, +"soyez tranquille. There is no more danger of +revolution at this time in France than there is in +Russia. Louis-Philippe is adored; the laws are +respected; order is universally established; and +if there be a sentiment of discontent or a feeling +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span> +approaching to irritation among any deserving the +name of Frenchmen, it is against these miserable +<i>vauriens</i>, who still cherish the wild hope of disturbing +our peace and our prosperity. But fear +nothing: trust me, the number of these is too +small to make it worth while to count them."</p> + +<p>You will believe I heard this with sincere satisfaction; +and I really felt very grateful, both for +the information, and the friendly manner in which +it was given.</p> + +<p>"I rejoice to hear this," said I: "but may I, +as a matter of curiosity, ask you what you think +about this famous trial? How do you think it +will end?"</p> + +<p>"As all trials ought to end," he replied: "by +bringing all such as are found guilty to punishment."</p> + +<p>"Heaven grant it!" said I; "for the sake of +mankind in general, and for that portion of it in +particular which happen at the present moment to +inhabit Paris. But do you not think that the +irritation produced by these preparations at the +Luxembourg is of considerable extent and violence?"</p> + +<p>"To whatever extent this irritation may have +gone," he answered gravely, "it is an undoubted +fact,—undoubted in the quarter where most is +known about the matter,—that the feeling which +approves these preparations is not only of greater +extent, but of infinitely deeper sincerity, than +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span> +that which is opposed to it. What you have +heard to-day is mere unmeaning bluster. The +trial, I do assure you, is very popular. It is for +the justification and protection of the National +Guard;—and are we not all National Guards?"</p> + +<p>"But are all the National Guards true?"</p> + +<p>"Perhaps not. But be sure of this, that there +are enough true to <i>égorger</i> without any difficulty +those who are not."</p> + +<p>"But is it not very probable," said I, "that +the republican feeling may be quite strong enough +to produce another disturbance, though not another +revolution? And the situation of strangers +would probably become very embarrassing, should +this eventually lead to any renewed outbreakings +of public enthusiasm."</p> + +<p>"Not the least in the world, I do assure you: +for, at any rate, all the enthusiasm, as you civilly +call it, would only elicit additional proof of the +stability and power of the government which we +are now so happy as to enjoy. The enthusiasm +would be speedily calmed, depend upon it."</p> + +<p>"A peaceable traveller," said I, "can wish for no +better news; and henceforward I shall endeavour +to read and to listen with a tranquil spirit, let the +prisoners or their partisans say what they may."</p> + +<p>"You will do wisely, believe me. Rest in +perfect confidence and security, and be assured +that Louis-Philippe holds all the English as his +right good friends. While this is the case, neither +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span> +Windsor Castle nor the Tower of London itself +could afford you a safer abode than Paris."</p> + +<p>With this seasonable and very efficient encouragement, +he left me; and as I really believe him +to know more about the new-born politics of +"Young France" than most people, I go on very +tranquilly making engagements, with but few misgivings +lest barricades should prevent my keeping +them.</p> + +<h2>LETTER VIII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Eloquence of the Pulpit.—L'Abbé Cœur.—Sermon at St. +Roch.—Elegant Congregation.—Costume of the younger +Clergy.</p> + +<p>There is one novelty, and to me a very agreeable +one, which I have remarked since my return +to this volatile France: this is the fashion and +consideration which now attend the eloquence of +her preachers.</p> + +<p>Political economists assert that the supply of +every article follows the demand for it in a degree +nicely proportioned to the wants of the population; +and it is upon this principle, I presume, that we +must account for the present affluence of a talent +which some few years ago could hardly be said to +exist in France, and might perhaps have been +altogether denied to it, had not the pages both of +Fenelon and his eloquent antagonist, Bossuet, rendered +such an injustice impossible.</p> + +<p>It was, I think, about a dozen years ago that +I took some trouble to discover if any traces of +this glorious eloquence remained at Paris. I +heard sermons at Notre Dame—at St. Roch—at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span> +St. Eustache; but never was a search after talent +attended with worse success. The preachers +were nought; they had the air, too, of being vulgar +and uneducated men,—which I believe was, +and indeed still is, very frequently the case. The +churches were nearly empty; and the few persons +scattered up and down their splendid aisles appeared, +generally speaking, to be of the very +lowest order of old women.</p> + +<p>How great is now the contrast! Nowhere are +we so certain of seeing a crowd of elegantly-dressed +and distinguished persons as in the principal +churches of Paris. Nor is it a crowd that mocks +the eye with any tinsel pretensions to a rank they +do not possess. Inquire who it is that so meekly +and devoutly kneels on one side of you—that so +sedulously turns the pages of her prayer-book on +the other, and you will be answered by the announcement +of the noblest names remaining in +France.</p> + +<p>Though the eloquence of the pulpit has always +been an object of attention and interest to me in +all countries, I hardly ventured on my first arrival +here to inquire again if anything of the kind +existed, lest I should once more be sent to listen +to an inaudible mumbling preacher, and to look at +the deaf and dozing old women who formed his +congregation. But it has needed no inquiry to +make us speedily acquainted with the fact, that +the churches have become the favourite resort of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span> +the young, the beautiful, the high-born, and the +instructed. Whence comes this change?</p> + +<p>"Have you heard l'Abbé Cœur?" was a question +asked me before I had been here a week, by one +who would not for worlds have been accounted +<i>rococo</i>. When I replied that I had not even +heard of him, I saw plainly that it was decided I +could know very little indeed of what was going +on in Paris. "That is really extraordinary! but +I engage you to go without delay. He is, I assure +you, quite as much the fashion as Taglioni."</p> + +<p>As the conversation was continued on the subject +of fashionable preachers, I soon found that I +was indeed altogether benighted. Other celebrated +names were cited: Lacordaire, Deguerry, and +some others that I do not remember, were spoken +of as if their fame must of necessity have reached +from pole to pole, but of which, in truth, I knew +no more than if the gentlemen had been private +chaplains to the princes of Chili. However, I set +down all their names with much docility; and +the more I listened, the more I rejoiced that the +Passion-week and Easter, those most Catholic seasons +for preaching, were before us, being fully determined +to profit by this opportunity of hearing +in perfection what was so perfectly new to me as +popular preaching in Paris.</p> + +<p>I have lost little time in putting this resolution +into effect. The church of St. Roch is, I believe, +the most fashionable in Paris; it was there, too, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span> +that we were sure of hearing this celebrated Abbé +Cœur; and both these reasons together decided that +it was at St. Roch our sermon-seeking should +begin: I therefore immediately set about discovering +the day and hour on which he would +make his appearance in the pulpit.</p> + +<p>When inquiring these particulars in the church, +we were informed, that if we intended to procure +chairs, it would be necessary to come at least one +good hour before the high mass which preceded +the sermon should begin. This was rather alarming +intelligence to a party of heretics who had an +immense deal of business on their hands; but I +was steadfast in my purpose, and, with a small +detachment of my family, submitted to the preliminary +penance of sitting the long silent hour in +front of the pulpit of St. Roch. The precaution +was, however, perfectly necessary, for the crowd +was really tremendous; but, to console us, it was +of the most elegant description; and, after all, the +hour scarcely appeared much too long for the business +of reviewing the vast multitude of graceful +personages, waving plumes, and blooming flowers, +that ceased not during every moment of the time to +collect themselves closer and closer still about us.</p> + +<p>Nothing certainly could be more beautiful than +this collection of bonnets, unless it were the collection +of eyes under them. The proportion of +ladies to gentlemen was on the whole, we thought, +not less than twelve to one. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span></p> + +<p>"Je désirerais savoir," said a young man near +me, addressing an extremely pretty woman who +sat beside him,—"Je désirerais savoir si par hasard +M. l'Abbé Cœur est jeune."</p> + +<p>The lady answered not, but frowned most indignantly.</p> + +<p>A few minutes afterwards, his doubts upon this +point, if he really had any, were removed. A man +far from ill-looking, and farther still from being +old, mounted the tribune, and some thousands of +bright eyes were riveted upon him. The silent +and profound attention which hung on every word +he uttered, unbroken as it was by a single idle +sound, or even glance, showed plainly that his +influence upon the splendid and numerous congregation +that surrounded him must be very +great, or the power of his eloquence very strong: +and it was an influence and a power that, though +"of another parish," I could well conceive must be +generally felt, <i>for he was in earnest</i>. His voice, +though weak and somewhat wirey, was distinct, +and his enunciation clear: I did not lose a word.</p> + +<p>His manner was simple and affectionate; his +language strong, yet not intemperate; but he +decidedly appealed more to the hearts of his +hearers than to their understandings; and it was +their hearts that answered him, for many of them +wept plenteously.</p> + +<p>A great number of priests were present at this +sermon, who were all dressed in their full clerical +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span> +habits, and sat in places reserved for them immediately +in front of the pulpit: they were consequently +very near us, and we had abundant +opportunity to remark the traces of that <i>march of +mind</i> which is doing so many wondrous works +upon earth.</p> + +<p>Instead of the tonsure which we have been used +to see, certainly with some feeling of reverence—for +it was often shorn into the very centre of +crisped locks, while their raven black or shining +chesnut still spoke of youth that scrupled not to +sacrifice its comeliness to a feeling of religious +devotion;—instead of this, we now saw unshaven +crowns, and more than one pair of flourishing +<i>favoris</i>, nourished, trained, and trimmed evidently +with the nicest care, though a stiff three-cornered +cowl in every instance hung behind the +rich and waving honours of the youthful head.</p> + +<p>The effect of this strange mixture is very singular. +But notwithstanding this bold abandonment +of priestly costume among the junior clergy, +there were in the long double row of anointed +heads which faced the pulpit some exceedingly +fine studies for an artist; and wherever the offending +Adam was subdued by years, nothing +could be in better keeping than the countenances, +and the sacred garb of those to whom they belonged. +Similar causes will, I suppose, at all +times produce similar effects; and it is therefore +that among the twenty priests at St. Roch in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span> +1835, I seemed to recognise the originals of many +a holy head with which the painters of Italy, +Spain, and Flanders have made me familiar.</p> + +<p>The contrast furnished by the deep-set eyes, +and the fine severe expression of some of these +consecrated brows, to the light, airy elegance of +the pretty women around them, was sufficiently +striking; and, together with the mellow light of +the shaded windows, and the lofty spaciousness +of the noble church, formed a spectacle highly +picturesque and impressive.</p> + +<p>After the sermon was over, and while the +gaily-habited congregation fluttered away through +the different doors like so many butterflies hastening +to meet returning sunshine, we amused +ourselves by wandering round the church. It is +magnificently large for a parish church; but, excepting +in some of the little chapels, we found +not much to admire.</p> + +<p>That very unrighteous old churchman, the Abbé +Dubois, has a fine monument there, restored from +Les Petits Augustins; and a sort of marble medallion, +bearing the head of the immortal Corneille—immortal +despite M. Victor Hugo—is also restored, +and placed against one of the heavy columns +of, I think, the centre aisle. But we paused longest +in a little chapel behind the altar—not the +middle one, with its well-managed glory of crimson +light, though that is very beautiful; but in the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span> +one to the right of it, which contains a sculptured +Calvary. It is, I believe, only one of <i>les stations</i>, +of which twelve are to be found in different +parts of the church; but it has a charm—seen as +we saw it, with a strong effect of accidental light, +bringing forward the delicate figure of the adoring +Magdalene, and leaving the Saviour in the dark +shadow and repose of death—that sets at defiance +all the connoisseurship of art, and taking from you +all faculty to judge, leaves only the power to feel. +Under these circumstances, whether quite delusive +or not I hardly know, this group appeared +to us one of exceeding beauty.</p> + +<p>The high altar of St. Roch, and the extremity +of the carpeted space enclosed round it, is most +lavishly, beautifully, and fragrantly adorned with +flowers of the choicest kind, all flourishing in the +fullest bloom in boxes and vases. It is the only +instance I remember in which the perfume of +this most fair and holy decoration actually pervaded +the church. They certainly offer the sweetest +incense that can be found to breathe its grateful +life and spirit out on any altar; and were it not +for the graceful swinging of the censers, which very +particularly pleases my eye, I would recommend +to the Roman Catholic church henceforth an economy +of their precious gums, and advise them to +offer the incense of flowers in their stead.</p> + +<p>Before we left the church, about a hundred and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span> +fifty boys and girls, from ten to fourteen years of +age, assembled to be catechised by a young priest, +who received them behind the Lady Chapel. His +manner was familiar, caressing and kind, and his +waving hair fell about his ears like the picture of +a young St. John.</p> + +<h2>LETTER IX.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Literature of the Revolutionary School.—Its low estimation +in France.</p> + +<p>Among many proofs of attentive kindness which +I have received from my Paris friends, their care +to furnish me with a variety of modern publications +is not the least agreeable.</p> + +<p>One fancies everywhere, that it is easy, by the +help of a circulating library, to know tolerably +well what is going on at Paris: but this is a +mighty fond delusion; though sometimes, perhaps, +our state may be the more gracious from our +ignorance.</p> + +<p>One gentleman, to whom I owe much gratitude +for the active good-nature with which he seems +willing to assist me in all my researches, has given +me much curious information respecting the present +state of literature and literary men in France.</p> + +<p>In this department of human greatness, at least, +those of the party which has lost power and place +have a most decided pre-eminence. Would it be a +pun to say that there is poetical justice in this?</p> + +<p>The active, busy, bustling politicians of the hour +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span> +have succeeded in thrusting everything else out +of place, and themselves into it. One dynasty has +been overthrown, and another established; old +laws have been abrogated, and hundreds of new +ones framed; hereditary nobles have been disinherited, +and little men made great;—but amidst +this plenitude of destructiveness, they have not +yet contrived to make any one of the puny literary +reputations of the day weigh down the renown +of those who have never lent their voices to the +cause of treason, regicide, rebellion, or obscenity. +The literary reputations both of Châteaubriand +and Lamartine stand higher, beyond all comparison, +than those of any other living French +authors: yet the first, with all his genius, has +often suffered his imagination to run riot, and the +last has only given to the public the leisure of his +literary life. But both of them are men of honour +and principle, as well as men of genius; and it comforts +one's human nature to see that these qualities +will keep themselves aloft, despite whatever squally +winds may blow, or blustering floods assail them. +That both Châteaubriand and Lamartine belong +rather to the imaginative than to the <i>positif</i> class, +cannot be denied; but they are renowned throughout +the world, and France is proud of them.</p> + +<p>The most curious literary speculations, however, +suggested by the present state of letters in this +country, are not respecting authors such as these: +they speak for themselves, and all the world knows +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span> +them and their position. The circumstance decidedly +the most worthy of remark in the literature +of France at the present time, is the effect which +the last revolution appears to have produced. With +the exception of history, to which both Thiers and +Mignet have added something that may live, notwithstanding +their very defective philosophy, no +single work has appeared since the revolution of +1830 which has obtained a substantial, elevated, +and generally acknowledged reputation for any author +unknown before that period: not even among +all the unbridled ebullitions of imagination, though +restrained neither by decorum, principle, nor taste,—not +even here (excepting from one female<a name="FNanchor_2" id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> pen, +which might become, were it the pleasure of the +hand that wields it, the first now extant in the +world of fiction,) has anything appeared likely +to survive its author; nor is there any writer +who during the same period has raised himself +to that station in society, by means of his literary +productions, which is so universally accorded to +all who have acquired high literary celebrity in +any country.</p> + +<p>The name of M. Guizot was too well known +before the revolution for these observations to +have any reference to him; and however much he +may have distinguished himself since July 1830, +his reputation was made before. There are, however, +little writers in prodigious abundance; and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span> +though as perfectly sure of the truth of what I +have here stated as that I am alive to write it, +I should expect a terrible riot about my ears, could +such words be heard by the swarm of tiny geniuses +that settle in clusters, some on the newspapers, +some on the theatres, and some on the busy little +printing-press of the tale-tellers—could they catch +me, I am sure I should be stung to death.</p> + +<p>How well I can fancy the clamour!... "Infamous +libeller!" cries one; "have not I achieved +a reputation? Do I not receive yearly some hundreds +of francs for my sublime familiarity with +sin and misery? and are not my works read by +'Young France' with ecstasy? Is not this fame?" +"And I," says another,—"is it of such as I and +my cotemporary fellow-labourers in the vast field +of new-ploughed speculation that you speak?" +"What call you reputation, woman?" says a +third: "do not the theatres overflow when I send +murder, lust, and incest on the stage, to witch the +world with wondrous wickedness?" "And, I too," +groans another,—"am I not famous? Are not my +delicious tales of unschooled nature in the hands +of every free-born youth and tender maid in this +our regenerated Athens? Is not this fame, infamous +slanderer?"</p> + +<p>Were I obliged to answer all this, I could only +say, "<i>Arrangez-vous, canaille!</i> If you call this +fame, take it, try it, make the most of it, and see +where you will be some dozen years hence." +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span></p> + +<p>Notwithstanding this extraordinary lack of +great ability, however, there never, I believe, was +any period in which the printing-presses of France +worked so hard as at present. The revolution of +1830 seems to have set all the minor spirits in +motion. There is scarcely a boy so insignificant, +or a workman so unlearned, as to doubt his +having the power and the right to instruct the +world. "Every breathing soul in Paris took a +part in this glorious struggle," says the recording +newspaper;—"Yes, all!" echoes the smutched +mechanic, snorting and snuffing the air with the +intoxicating consciousness of imputed power;—"Yes!" +answer the <i>galopins</i> one and all, "it +is we, it is we!" And then, like the restless +witches on the barren heath that their breath +has blasted, the great reformers rouse themselves +again, and looking from the mischief they have +done to the still worse that remains behind, they +mutter prophetically, "We'll do—we'll do—we'll +do!"</p> + +<p>To me, I confess, it is perfectly astonishing +that any one can be found to class the writers +of this restless <i>clique</i> as "the literary men of +France." Yet it has been done; and it is not +till the effects of the popular commotion which +brought them into existence has fully subsided, +that the actual state of French literature can be +fairly ascertained.</p> + +<p>Béranger was not the production of that whirlwind: +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span> +but, in truth, let him sing what or when +he will, the fire of genuine poetic inspiration +must perforce flash across the thickest mist that +false principles can raise around him. He is but +a meteor perhaps, but a very bright one, and +must shine, though his path lie amongst unwholesome +exhalations and most dangerous pitfalls. +But he cannot in any way be quoted as one of +the new-born race whose claim to genuine fame +I have presumed to doubt.</p> + +<p>That flashes of talent, sparkles of wit, and +bursts of florid eloquence are occasionally heard, +seen, and felt even from these, is, however, certain: +it could hardly be otherwise. But they +blaze, and go out. The oil which feeds the lamp +of revolutionary genius is foul, and such noxious +vapours rise with the flame as must needs check +its brightness.</p> + +<p>Do not, however, believe me guilty of such +presumption as to give you my own unsupported +judgment as to the position which this "new +school" (as the <i>décousu</i> folks always call themselves) +hold in the public esteem. Such a judgment +could be little worth if unsupported; but +my opinion on this subject is, on the contrary, the +result of careful inquiry among those who are +most competent to give information respecting it.</p> + +<p>When the names of such as are best known +among this class of authors are mentioned in society, +let the politics of the circle be what they may, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span> +they are constantly spoken of as a Paria caste that +must be kept apart.</p> + +<p>"Do you know —— ——?" has been a question +I have repeatedly asked respecting a person +whose name is cited in England as the most +esteemed French writer of the age,—and so cited, +moreover, to prove the low standard of French +taste and principle.</p> + +<p>"No, madam," has been invariably the cold +reply.</p> + +<p>"Or ——?"</p> + +<p>"No. He is not in society."</p> + +<p>"Or ——?"</p> + +<p>"Oh no! His works live an hour (too long!) +and are forgotten."</p> + +<p>Should I therefore, my friend, return from +France with an higher idea of its good taste and +morality than I had when I entered it, think not +that my own standard of what is right has been +lowered, but only that I have had the pleasure +of finding it differed much less than I expected +from that of our agreeable and hardly-judged +neighbours on this side the water. But I shall +probably recur to this subject again; and so, for +the present, farewell!</p> + +<h2>LETTER X.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Lonchamps.—The "Three Hours' Agony" at St. Roch.—Sermons +on the Gospel of Good-Friday.—Prospects of +the Catholics.—O'Connell.</p> + +<p>I dare say you may know, my friend, though +I did not, that the Wednesday, Thursday, and +Friday of Passion-week are yearly set apart by +the Parisians for a splendid promenade in carriages, +on horseback, and on foot, to a part of the +Bois de Boulogne called Lonchamps. What the +origin could be of so gay and brilliant an assemblage +of people and equipages, evidently coming +together to be stared at and to stare, on days so +generally devoted to religious exercises, rather +puzzled me; but I have obtained a most satisfactory +explanation, which, in the hope of your +ignorance, I will communicate. The custom itself, +it seems, is a sort of religious exercise; or, +at any rate, it was so at the time of its institution.</p> + +<p>When the <i>beau monde</i> of Paris first adopted the +practice of repairing to Lonchamps during these +days of penitence and prayer, a convent stood +there, whose nuns were celebrated for performing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span> +the solemn services appointed for the season with +peculiar piety and effect. They sustained this +reputation for many years; and for many years +all who could find admittance within their church +thronged to hear their sweet voices.</p> + +<p>This convent was destroyed at <i>the</i> revolution +(<i>par excellence</i>), but the horses and carriages of +Paris still continue to move for evermore in the +same direction when the last three days of Lent +arrive.</p> + +<p>The cavalcade assembled on this occasion +forms an extremely pretty spectacle, rivalling a +spring Sunday in Hyde Park as to the number +and elegance of the equipages, and greatly exceeding +it in the beauty and extent of the magnificent +road on which they show themselves. +Though the attending this congregation of wealth, +rank, and fashion is still called "going to Lonchamps," +the evolutions of the company, whether +in carriages, on horseback, or on foot, are at present +almost wholly confined to the noble avenue +which leads from the entrance to the Champs +Elysées up to the Barrière de l'Etoile.</p> + +<p>From about three till six, the whole of this +ample space is crowded; and I really had no +idea that so many handsome, well-appointed equipages +could be found collected together anywhere +out of London. The royal family had +several handsome carriages on the ground: that +of the Duke of Orleans was particularly remarkable +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span> +for the beauty of the horses, and the general +elegance of the "turn-out."</p> + +<p>The ministers of state, and all the foreign legations, +did honour to the occasion; most of them +having very complete equipages, chasseurs of various +plumage, and many with a set of four beautiful +horses really well harnessed. Many private +individuals, also, had carriages which were handsome +enough, together with their elegant lading, +greatly to increase the general brilliancy of the +scene.</p> + +<p>The only individual, however, except the Duke +of Orleans, who had two carriages on the ground, +two feathered chasseurs, and twice two pair of +richly-harnessed steeds, was a certain Mr. T——, +an American merchant, whose vast wealth, and +still more vast expenditure, is creating considerable +consternation among his sober-minded countrymen +in Paris. We were told that the exuberance +of this gentleman's transatlantic taste was +such, and such the vivacity of his inventive fancy, +that during the three days of the Lonchamps +promenade he appeared on the ground each day +with different liveries; having, as it should seem, +no particular family reasons for preferring any +one set of colours to another.</p> + +<p>The ground was sprinkled, and certainly greatly +adorned, by many very elegant-looking Englishmen +on horseback; the pretty caprioles, sleek +skins, and well-managed capers of that prettiest +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span> +of creatures, a high-bred English saddle-horse, +being as usual among the most attractive parts +of the show. Nor was there any deficiency of +Frenchmen, with very handsome <i>montures</i>, to +complete the spectacle; while the ample space +under the trees on either side was crowded +with thousands of smart pedestrians; the whole +scene being one vast moving mass of pomp and +pleasure.</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, the weather on the first of the +three days was very far from favourable: the +wind was so bitterly cold that I countermanded +the carriage I had ordered, and instead of going +to Lonchamps, we actually sat shivering over the +fire at home; indeed, before three o'clock, the +ground was perfectly covered with snow. The +next day promised something better, and we ventured +to emerge: but the spectacle was really +vexatious; many of the carriages being open, and +the shivering ladies attired in all the light and +floating drapery of spring costume. For it is at +Lonchamps that all the fashions of the coming +season are exhibited; and no one can tell, however +fashion-wise they be, what bonnet, scarf or +shawl, or even what prevailing colour, is to be +worn in Paris throughout the year, till this decisive +promenade be over. Accordingly the milliners +had done their duty, and, in fact, had far +outstripped the spring. But it was sad to see +the beautiful bunches of lilac, and the graceful, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span> +flexible laburnums—each a wonder of art—twisted +and tortured, bending and breaking, before +the wind. It really seemed as if the lazy +Spring, vexed at the pretty mimicry of blossoms +she had herself failed to bring, sent this inclement +blast on purpose to blight them. Everything +went wrong. The tender tinted ribbons were +soon dabbled in a driving sleet; while feathers, +instead of wantoning, as it was intended they +should do, on the breeze, had to fight a furious +battle with the gale.</p> + +<p>It was not therefore till the following day—the +last of the three appointed—that Lonchamps +really showed the brilliant assemblage of carriages, +horsemen, and pedestrians that I have described +to you. Upon this last day, however, though it +was still cold for the season—(England would +have been ashamed of such a 17th of April)—the +sun did come forth, and smiled in such a +sort as greatly to comfort the pious pilgrims.</p> + +<p>We remained, like all the rest of Paris, driving +up and down in the midst of the pretty crowd till +six, when they gradually began to draw off, and +all the world went home to dinner.</p> + +<p>The early part of this day, which was Good-Friday, +had been very differently passed. The +same beautiful and solemn music which formerly +drew all Paris to the Convent in the Bois de +Boulogne is now performed in several of the +churches. We were recommended to hear the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span> +choir of St. Roch; and it was certainly the most +impressive service at which I was ever present.</p> + +<p>There is much wisdom in thus giving to music +an important part in the public ceremonies of +religion. Nothing commands and enchains the +attention with equal power: the ear may be +deaf to eloquence, and the thoughts may often +grovel earthward, despite all the efforts of the +preacher to lead them up to heaven; but few +will find it possible to escape from the effect of +music; and when it is of such a character as that +performed in the Roman Catholic church on Good-Friday, +it can hardly be that the most volatile +and indifferent listener should depart unmoved.</p> + +<p>This service was advertised as "The Three +Hours' Agony." The crowd assembled to listen +to it was immense. It is impossible to speak +too highly of the composition of the music; it +is conceived in the very highest tone of sublimity; +and the deeply effective manner of its performance +recalled to me an anecdote I have heard of +some young organist, who, having accompanied +an anthem in a manner which appeared greatly +superior to that of the usual performer, was asked +if he had not made some alteration in the composition. +"No," he replied, "I have not; but I +always read the words when I play."</p> + +<p>So, I should think, did those who performed the +services at St. Roch on Good-Friday; and nothing +can be imagined more touching and effective than +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span> +the manner in which the whole of these striking +ceremonies were performed and arranged there.</p> + +<p>The awful gospel of the day furnished a theme +for the impassioned eloquence of several successive +preachers; one or two of whom were wonderfully +powerful in their manner of recounting the dreadful +narrative. They were all quite young men; +but they went through the whole of the appalling +history with such deep solemnity, such strength +of imagery and vehemence of eloquence, as to +produce prodigious effect.</p> + +<p>At intervals, while the exhausted preachers +reposed, the organ, with many stringed instruments, +and a choir of exquisite voices, performed +the same gospel, in a manner that made +one's whole soul thrill and quiver within one. +The suffering—the submission—the plaintive yet +sublime "It is finished!" and the convulsive +burst of indignant nature that followed, showing +itself in thunder, hail, and earthquake, were all +brought before the mind with most miraculous +power. I have been told since, that the services +at Notre Dame on that day were finer still; but +I really find some difficulty in believing that this +is possible.</p> + +<p>During these last and most solemn days of +Lent, I have been endeavouring by every means +in my power to discover how much fasting, of +any kind, was going on. If they fast at all, it +is certainly performed in most strict obedience to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span> +the very letter of the gospel: for, assuredly, they +"appear not unto men to fast." Everything goes +on as gaily as if it were the season of the carnival. +The <i>restaurans</i> reek with the savoury vapour of a +hundred dishes; the theatres are opened, and as +full as the churches; invitations cease not; and +I can in no direction perceive the slightest symptom +of being among a Roman Catholic population +during a season of penitence.</p> + +<p>And yet, contradictory as the statement must +appear, I am deeply convinced that the clergy of +the church of Rome feel more hope of recovered +power fluttering at their hearts now, than they +have done at any time during the last half-century. +Nor can I think they are far wrong in this. The +share which the Roman Catholic priests of this +our day are said to have had in the Belgian +revolution, and the part, more remarkable still, +which the same race are now performing in the +opening scenes of the fearful struggle which +threatens England, has given a new impulse to +the ambition of Rome and of her children. One +may read it in the portly bearing of her youthful +priests,—one may read it in the deep-set meditative +eye of those who are older. It is legible in +their brand-new vestments of gold and silver tissue; +it is legible in the costly decorations of their renovated +altars; and deep, deep, deep is the policy +which teaches them to recover with a gentle hand +that which they have lost by a grasping one. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span> +How well can I fancy that, in their secret synods, +the favourite text is, "No man putteth a piece +of new cloth unto an old garment; for that which +is put in to fill it up, taketh from the garment, +and the rent is made worse." Were they a whit +less cautious, they must fail at once; but they +tickle their converts before they think of convincing +them. It is for this that the pulpits are given to +young and eloquent men, who win the eye and +ear of their congregations long before they find +out to what point they wish to lead them. But +while the young men preach, the old men are not +idle: there are rumours of new convents, new +monasteries, new orders, new miracles, and of +new converts, in all directions. This wily, worldly, +tranquil-seeming, but most ambitious sect, having +in many quarters joined themselves to the cause +of democracy, sit quietly by, looking for the result +of their work, and watching, like a tiger that +seems to dose, for the moment when they may +avenge themselves for the long fast from power, +during which they have been gnawing their heart-strings.</p> + +<p>But they now hail the morning of another day. +I would that all English ears could hear, as mine +have done, the prattle that prophesies the downfall +of our national church as a thing certain as rain +after long drought! I would that English ears +could hear, as mine have done, the name of O'Connell +uttered as that of a new apostle, and his bold +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span> +bearding of those who yet raise their voices in +defence of the faith their fathers gave them, +triumphantly quoted in proof of the growing influence +both of himself and his popish creed,—which +are in truth one and inseparable! But +forgive me!—all this has little to do with my +subject, and it is moreover a theme I had much +better not meddle with. I cannot touch it lightly, +for my heart is heavy when I turn to it; I cannot +treat it powerfully, for, alas! I have no +strength but to lament.</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1">"Hé! que puis-je au milieu de ce peuple abattu?</p> +<p>Benjamin est sans force, et Juda sans vertu."</p> +</div> + +<h2>LETTER XI.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Trial Chamber at the Luxembourg.—Institute.—M. Mignet.—Concert +Musard.</p> + +<p>As a great and especial favour, we have been +taken to see the new chamber that has been +erected at the Luxembourg for the trial of the +political prisoners. The appearance of the exterior +is very handsome, and though built wholly of +wood, it corresponds perfectly, to all outward seeming, +with the old palace. The rich and massive +style of architecture is imitated to perfection: the +heavy balustrades, the gigantic bas-reliefs, are all +vast, solid, and magnificent; and when it is stated +that the whole thing has been completed in the +space of two months, one is tempted to believe +that Alladdin has turned doctrinaire, and rubbed +his lamp most diligently in the service of the +state.</p> + +<p>The trial-chamber is a noble room; but from +the great number of prisoners, and greater still of +witnesses expected to be examined, the space left +for the public is but small. Prudence, perhaps, +may have had as much to do with this as necessity: +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span> +nor can we much wonder if the peers of +France should desire to have as little to do with +the Paris mob upon this occasion as possible.</p> + +<p>I remarked that considerable space was left for +passages, ante-rooms, surroundings, and outposts +of all sorts;—an excellent arrangement, the wisdom +of which cannot be questioned, as the attendance +of a large armed force must be indispensable. +In fact, I believe it ever has been and ever will +be found, that troops furnish the only means of +keeping a remarkably free people in order.</p> + +<p>It was, however, very comforting and satisfactory +to hear the manner in which the distinguished +and agreeable individual who had procured us +the pleasure of seeing this building discoursed of +the business which was to be carried on there.</p> + +<p>There is a quiet steadiness and confidence in +their own strength among these doctrinaries, that +seems to promise well for the lasting tranquillity +of the country; nor does it impeach either their +wisdom or sincerity, if many among them adhere +heart and hand to the government, though they +might have better liked a white than a tri-coloured +banner to wave over the palace of its head. +Whatever the standers-by may wish or feel about +future struggles and future changes, I think it is +certain that no Frenchman who desires the prosperity +of his country can at the present moment +wish for anything but a continuance of the tranquillity +she actually enjoys. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span></p> + +<p>If, indeed, democracy were gaining ground,—if +the frightful political fallacies, among which the +very young and the very ignorant are so apt to bewilder +themselves, were in any degree to be traced +in the policy pursued by the existing government,—then +would the question be wholly changed, and +every honest man in full possession of his senses +would feel himself called upon to stay the plague +with all his power and might. But the very +reverse of all this is evidently the case; and it +may be doubted if any sovereign in Europe has +less taste for license and misrule than King Louis-Philippe. +Be very sure that it is not to him that +the radicals of any land must look for patronage, +encouragement, or support: they will not +find it.</p> + +<p>After quitting the Luxembourg, we went to the +<i>bureau</i> of the secretary at the Institute, to request +tickets for an annual sitting of the five Academies, +which took place yesterday. They were very +obligingly accorded—(O that our institutions, +our academies, our lectures, were thus liberally +arranged!)—and yesterday we passed two very +agreeable hours in the place to which they admitted +us.</p> + +<p>I wish that the Polytechnic School, when they +took a fancy for changing the ancient <i>régimes</i> of +France, had included the uniform of the Institute +in their proscriptions. The improvement would +have been less doubtful than it is respecting some +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span> +other of their innovations: for what can be said +in defence of a set of learned academicians, varying +in age from light and slender thirty to massive +and protuberant fourscore, wearing one and +all a fancy blue dress-coat "embroidered o'er +with leaves of myrtle"? It is really a proof that +very good things were said and done at this sitting, +when I declare that my astonishment at the +Corydon-like costume was forgotten within the +first half-hour.</p> + +<p>We first witnessed the distribution of the prizes, +and then heard one or two members speak, or +rather read their compositions. But the great +fête of the occasion was hearing a discourse pronounced +by M. Mignet. This gentleman is too +celebrated not to have excited in us a very earnest +wish to hear him; and never was expectation +more agreeably gratified. Combined with the +advantages of a remarkably fine face and person, +M. Mignet has a tone of voice and play of countenance +sufficient of themselves to secure the success +of an orator. But on this occasion he did +not trust to these: his discourse was every way +admirable; subject, sentiment, composition, and +delivery, all excellent.</p> + +<p>He had chosen for his theme the history of +Martin Luther's appearance before the Diet at +Worms; and the manner in which he treated it +surprised as much as it delighted me. Not a +single trait of that powerful, steadfast, unbending +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span> +character, which restored light to our religion and +freedom to the mind of man, escaped him: it was +a mental portrait, painted with the boldness of +outline, breadth of light, and vigour of colouring, +which mark the hand of a consummate master.</p> + +<p>But was it a Roman Catholic who pronounced +this discourse?—Were they Roman Catholics +who filled every corner of the theatre, and listened +to him with attention so unbroken, and admiration +so undisguised? I know not. But for myself, +I can truly declare, that my Protestant and +reformed feelings were never more gratified than +by listening to this eloquent history of the proudest +moment of our great apostle's life, pronounced +in the centre of Cardinal Mazarin's palace. The +concluding words of the discourse were as follows:</p> + +<p>"Sommé pendant quatre ans de se soumettre, +Luther, pendant quatre ans, dit non. Il avait +dit non au légat; il avait dit non au pape; il dit +non à l'empereur. Dans ce non héroïque et fécond +se trouvait la liberté du monde."</p> + +<p>Another discourse was announced to conclude +the sitting of the day. But when M. Mignet +retired, no one appeared to take his place; and +after waiting for a few minutes, the numerous and +very fashionable-looking crowd dispersed themselves.</p> + +<p>I recollected the anecdote told of the first representation +of the "Partie de Chasse de Henri +Quatre," when the overture of Mehul produced +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span> +such an effect, that the audience would not permit +anything else to be performed after it. The +piece, therefore, was <i>remise</i>,—and so was the harangue +of the academician who was to have followed +M. Mignet.</p> + +<p>You will confess, I think, that we are not idle, +when I tell you that, after all this, we went in the +evening to <i>Le Concert Musard</i>. This is one of +the pastimes to which we have hitherto had no +parallel in London. At half-past seven o'clock, +you lounge into a fine, large, well-lighted room, +which is rapidly filled with company: a full and +good orchestra give you during a couple of hours +some of the best and most popular music of the +season; and then you lounge out again, in time to +dress for a party, or eat ices at Tortoni's, or soberly +to go home for a domestic tea-drinking and +early rest. For this concert you pay a franc; and +the humble price, together with the style of toilet +(every lady wearing a bonnet and shawl), might +lead the uninitiated to suppose that it was a +recreation prepared for the <i>beau monde</i> of the +Faubourg; but the long line of private carriages +that occupies the street at the conclusion of it, +shows that, simple and unpretending as is its style, +this concert has attractions for the best company +in Paris.</p> + +<p>The easy <i>entrée</i> to it reminded me of the theatres +of Germany. I remarked many ladies coming +in, two or three together, unattended by any +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span> +gentleman. Between the acts, the company promenaded +round the room, parties met and joined, +and altogether it appeared to us a very agreeable +mode of gratifying that French necessity of amusing +one's self out of one's own house, which seems +contagious in the very air of Paris.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Easter-Sunday at Notre Dame.—Archbishop.—View of Paris.—Victor +Hugo.—Hôtel Dieu.—Mr. Jefferson.</p> + +<p>It was long ago decided in a committee of the +whole house, that on Easter-Sunday we should +attend high mass at Notre Dame. I shall not +soon forget the spectacle that greeted us on entering. +Ten thousand persons, it was said, were +on that day assembled in the church; and its +dimensions are so vast, that I have no doubt the +statement was correct, for it was crowded from +floor to roof. The effect of the circular gallery, +that at mid-height encompasses the centre aisle, +following as it does the graceful sweep of the +chapel behind the altar, and filled row after row +with gaily-dressed company up, as it seemed, +almost to the groining of the roof, was beautiful. +The chairs on this occasion were paid for in proportion +to the advantageousness of the position +in which they stood, and by disbursing an extra +franc or two we obtained very good places. The +mass was performed with great splendour. The +dresses of the archbishop and his train were magnificent; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span> +and when this splendid, princely-looking +personage, together with his court of dignitaries +and priests, paraded the Host round the church +and up the crowded aisle spite of the close-wedged +throng, they looked like a stream of +liquid gold, that by its own weight made way +through every obstacle. The archbishop is a +mild and amiable-looking man, and ceased not to +scatter blessings from his lips and sprinkle safety +from his fingers'-ends upon the admiring people, +as slowly and gracefully he passed among them.</p> + +<p>The latter years of this prelate's life have been +signalized by some remarkable changes. He has +seen the glories and the penitences of his church +alike the favourite occupation of his king;—he +has seen that king and his highest nobles walking +in holy procession through the streets of Paris;—he +has seen that same king banished from his +throne and his country, a proscribed and melancholy +exile, while the pomp and parade of his +cherished faith were forbidden to offend the people's +eyes by any longer pouring forth its gorgeous +superstitions into the streets;—he has seen his +own consecrated palace razed to its foundation, +and its very elements scattered to the winds:—and +now, this self-same prelate sees himself again +well received at the court whence Charles Dix +was banished; and, stranger still, perhaps, he sees +his startled flock once more assembling round him, +quietly and silently, but steadily and in earnest; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span> +while he who, within five short years, was trembling +for his life, now lifts his head again, and +not only in safety, but, with all his former power +and pride of place, is permitted to</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1"> +"Chanter les <i>oremus</i>, faire des processions,</p> +<p>Et répandre à grands flots les bénédictions."</p> +</div> + +<p>It is true, indeed, that there are no longer any +Roman Catholic processions to be seen in the +streets of Paris; but if we look within the +churches, we find that the splendour concentrated +there, has lost nothing of its impressive sumptuousness +by thus changing the scene of its display.</p> + +<p>The service of this day, as far as the music +was concerned, was in my opinion infinitely less +impressive than that of Good-Friday at St. Roch. +This doubtless arose in a great degree from the +style of composition; but I suspect, moreover, that +my imagination was put out of humour by seeing +about fifty fiddlers, with every appearance of being +(what they actually were) the orchestra of the +opera, performing from a space enclosed for them +at the entrance of the choir. The singing men +and boys were also stationed in the same unwonted +and unecclesiastical place; and though +some of those hired for the occasion had very fine +Italian voices, they had all the air of singing without +"reading the words;" and, on the whole, my +ear and my fancy were disappointed. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span></p> + +<p>Victor Hugo's description of old Paris as seen +from the towers of Notre Dame sent us labouring +to their summit. The state of the atmosphere +was very favourable, and I was delighted to find +that the introduction of coal, rapid as its progress +has lately been, has not yet tinged the bright clear +air sufficiently to prevent this splendid panorama +from being distinctly seen to its remotest edge. +That impenetrable mass of dun, dull smoke, that +we look down upon whenever a mischievous imp +of curiosity lures us to the top of any dome, tower, +or obelisk in London, can hardly fail of making +one remember every weary step which led to the +profitless elevation; but one must be tired indeed +to remember fatigue while looking down upon the +bright, warm, moving miniature spread out below +the towers of Notre Dame.</p> + +<p>What an intricate world of roofs it is!—and +how mystically incomprehensible are the ins and +outs, the bridges and the islands, of the idle +Seine! A raft, caught sight of at intervals, +bearing wood or wine; a floating wash-house, +with its line of bending naïads, looking like a +child's toy with figures all of a row; and here +and there a floating-bath,—are all this river shows +of its power to aid and assist the magnificent +capital which has so strangely chosen to stretch +herself along its banks. When one thinks of the +forest of masts which we see covering whole +miles of extent in London, it seems utterly unintelligible +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span> +how that which is found needful for +the necessities of one great city should appear so +perfectly unnecessary for another.</p> + +<p>Victor Hugo's picture of the scene he has +fancied beneath the towers of Notre Dame in the +days of his Esmeralda is sketched with amazing +spirit; though probably Paris was no more like +the pretty panorama he makes of it than Timbuctoo. +I heartily wish, however, that he would +confine himself to the representation of still-life, +and let his characters be all of innocent bricks +and mortar: for even though they do look shadowy +and somewhat doubtful in the distance, +they have infinitely more nature and truth than +can be found among all his horrible imaginings +concerning his fellow-creatures.</p> + +<p>His description of the old church itself, too, is +delicious: for though it has little of architectural +reality or strict graphic fidelity about it, there is +such a powerful air of truth in every word he +says respecting it, that one looks out and about +upon the rugged stones, and studies every angle, +buttress, and parapet, with the lively interest of +old acquaintance.</p> + +<p>I should like to have a legend, as fond and +lingering in its descriptions, attached to some of +our glorious and mysterious old Gothic cathedrals +at home. This sort of reading gives a pleasure +in which imagination and reality are very happily +blended; and I can fancy nothing more agreeable +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span> +than following an able romancer up and down, +through and amongst, in and out, the gloomy, +shadowy, fanciful, unintelligible intricacies of such +a structure. How well might Winchester, for +instance, with its solemn crypts, its sturdy +Saxon strength, its quaintly-coffined relics of +royal bones, its Gothic shrines, its monumental +splendour, and its stately magnitude, furnish +forth the material for some such spirit-stirring +record!</p> + +<p>Having spent an hour of first-rate interest and +gratification in wandering inside and outside of +this very magnificent church, we crossed the +Place, or <i>Parvis</i>, of Notre Dame, to see the celebrated +hospital of the Hôtel Dieu. It is very +particularly large, clean, airy, and well-ordered in +every way; and I never saw sick people look less +miserable than some scores of men and women +did, tucked snugly up in their neat little beds, and +most of them with a friend or relative at their +side to console or amuse them.</p> + +<p>The access to the wards of this building is as +free as that into a public bazaar; but there is one +caution used in the admission of company which, +before I understood it, puzzled me greatly. There +are three doors at the top of the fine flight of +steps which leads to the building. The centre +one is used only as an exit; at the other two are +placed guards, one a male, the other a female. +Through these side-doors all who enter must pass—the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span> +men on one side, the women on the other; +and all must submit to be pretty strictly examined, +to see that they are conveying nothing +either to eat or drink that might be injurious to +the invalids.</p> + +<p>The covered bridge which opens from the back +part of the Hôtel Dieu, connecting <i>l'Isle de la Cité</i> +with the left bank of the Seine, with its light +glass roof, and safe shelter from wind, dust, or +annoyance of any kind, forms a delightful promenade +for the convalescent.</p> + +<p>The evening of this day we spent at a <i>soirée</i>, +where we met, among many other pleasant persons, +a very sensible and gentlemanlike American. +I had the pleasure of a long conversation with +him, during which he said many things extremely +worth listening to. This gentleman has held +many distinguished diplomatic situations, appears +to have acquired a great deal of general information, +and moreover to have given much attention +to the institutions and character of his own +country.</p> + +<p>He told me that Jefferson had been the friend +of his early life; that he knew his sentiments and +opinions on all subjects intimately well, and much +better than those who were acquainted with them +no otherwise than by his published writings. He +assured me most positively that Jefferson was <span class="smcap">not</span> +a democrat in principle, but believed it expedient +to promulgate the doctrine, as the only one +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span> +which could excite the general feeling of the people, +and make them hang together till they should +have acquired strength sufficient to be reckoned as +one among the nations. He said, that Jefferson's +ulterior hope for America was, that she should, +after having acquired this strength, give birth to +men distinguished both by talent and fortune; +that when this happened, an enlightened and +powerful aristocracy might be hoped for, without +which <span class="smcap">he knew</span> that no country could be really +great or powerful.</p> + +<p>As I am assured that the word of this gentleman +may be depended on, these observations—or +rather, I should say, statements—respecting Jefferson +appear to me worth noting.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XIII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open">"Le Monomane."</p> + +<p>As a distinguished specimen of fashionable +horror, I went last night to the Porte St. Martin +to see "The Monomane," a drama in five acts, +from the pen of a M. Duveyrier. I hardly know +whether to give you a sketch of this monstrous +outrage against common sense or not; but I think +I will do so, because I flatter myself that no one +will be silly enough to translate it into English, or +import it in any shape into England; and, therefore, +if I do not tell you something about it, you +may chance to die without knowing to what prodigious +lengths a search after absurdity may carry +men.</p> + +<p>But first let me mention, as not the least extraordinary +part of the phenomenon, that the theatre +was crowded from floor to roof, and that Shakspeare +was never listened to with attention more +profound. However, it does not follow that approval +or admiration of any kind was either the +cause or the effect of this silent contemplation of +the scene: no one could be more devoted to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span> +business of the hour than myself, but most surely +this was not the result of approbation.</p> + +<p>If I am not very clear respecting the plot, you +must excuse me, from my want of habitual expertness +in such an analysis; but the main features +and characters cannot escape me.</p> + +<p>An exceedingly amiable and highly intellectual +gentleman is the hero of this piece; a part personated +by a M. Lockroi with a degree of ability +deserving a worthier employment. This amiable +man holds at Colmar the office of <i>procureur du +roi</i>; and, from the habit of witnessing trials, acquires +so vehement a passion for the shedding of +blood on the scaffold, that it amounts to a mania. +To illustrate this singular trait of character, M. +Balthazar developes his secret feelings in an opening +speech to an intimate friend. In this speech, +which really contains some very good lines, he +dilates with much enthusiasm on the immense +importance which he conceives to attach to the +strict and impartial administration of criminal justice. +No man could deliver himself more judge-like +and wisely; but how or why such very +rational and sober opinions should lead to an +unbounded passion for blood, is very difficult to +understand.</p> + +<p>The next scene, however, shows the <i>procureur +du roi</i> hugging himself with a kind of mysterious +rapture at the idea of an approaching execution, +and receiving with a very wild and mad-like sort +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span> +of agony some attempts to prove the culprit innocent. +The execution takes place; and after it is +over, the innocence of the unfortunate victim is +fully proved.</p> + +<p>The amiable and excellent <i>procureur du roi</i> is +greatly moved at this; but his repentant agony +is soon walked off by a few well-trod melodramatic +turns up and down the stage; and he goes on +again, seizing with ecstasy upon every opportunity +of bringing the guilty to justice.</p> + +<p>What the object of the author can possibly be +in making out that a man is mad solely because +he wishes to do his duty, I cannot even guess. It +is difficult to imagine an honest-minded magistrate +uttering more common-place, uncontrovertible +truths upon the painful duties of his station, than +does this unfortunate gentleman.</p> + +<p>M. Victor Hugo, speaking of himself in one of +his prefaces, says, "Il (Victor Hugo) continuera +donc fermement; et chaque fois qu'il croira nécessaire +de faire bien voir à tous, dans ses moindres +détails, une idée utile, une idée sociale, une idée humaine, +il posera le théâtre déssus comme un verre +grossissant."<a name="FNanchor_3" id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> + +<p>It strikes me that M. Duveyrier, the ingenious +author of the Monomane, must work upon the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span> +same principle, and that in this piece he thinks +he has put a magnifying-glass upon "une idée +sociale."</p> + +<p>But I must return to my analysis of this drama +of five mortal acts.—After the execution, the real +perpetrator of the murder for which the unfortunate +victim of legal enthusiasm has innocently +suffered appears on the scene. He is brought +sick or wounded into the house of a physician, +with whom the <i>procureur du roi</i> and his wife are +on a visit. Balthazar sees the murderer conveyed +to bed in a chamber that opens from that of his +friend the doctor. He then goes to bed himself +with his wife, and appears to have fallen asleep +without delay, for we presently see him in this +state come forth from his chamber upon a gallery, +from whence a flight of stairs descends upon the +stage. We see him walk down these stairs,—take +some instrument out of a case belonging to the +doctor,—enter the apartment where the murderer +has been lodged,—return,—replace the instrument,—-wash +his bloody hands and wipe them +upon a hand-towel,—then reascend the staircase +and enter his lady's room at the top of it; all of +which is performed in the silence of profound +sleep.</p> + +<p>The attention which hung upon the whole of +this long silent scene was such, that one might +have supposed the lives of the audience depended +upon their not waking this murderous sleeper by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span> +any sound; and the applause which followed the +mute performance, when once the awful <i>procureur +du roi</i> was again safely lodged in his chamber, was +deafening.</p> + +<p>The following morning it is discovered that the +sick stranger has been murdered; and instantly +the <i>procureur du roi</i>, with his usual ardour in +discovering the guilty, sets most ably to work upon +the investigation of every circumstance which may +throw light upon this horrible transaction. Everything, +particularly the case of instruments, of +which one is bloody, and the hand-towel found +in his room, stained with the same accusing dye—all +tends to prove that the poor innocent physician +is the murderer: he is accordingly taken up, tried, +and condemned.</p> + +<p>This unfortunate young doctor has an uncle, of +the same learned profession, who is addicted to +the science of animal magnetism. This gentleman +having some suspicion that Balthazar is himself +the guilty person, imagines a very cunning device +by which he may be made to betray himself if +guilty. He determines to practise his magnetism +upon him in full court while he is engaged in the +duties of his high office, and flatters himself that +he shall be able to throw him into a sleep or +trance, in which state he may <i>par hasard</i> let out +something of the truth.</p> + +<p>This admirable contrivance answers perfectly. +The attorney-general does fall into a most profound +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span> +sleep the moment the old doctor begins his magnetising +manœuvres, and in this state not only +relates aloud every circumstance of the murder, +but, to give this confession more sure effect, he +writes it out fairly, and sets his name to it, being +profoundly asleep the whole time.</p> + +<p>And here it is impossible to avoid remarking on +the extreme ill fortune which attends the sleeping +hours of this amiable attorney-general. At one +time he takes a nap, and kills a man without +knowing anything of the matter; and then, in a +subsequent state of oblivion, he confesses it, still +without knowing anything of the matter.</p> + +<p>As soon as the unfortunate gentleman has +finished the business for which he was put to sleep, +he is awakened, and the paper is shown to him. +He scruples not immediately to own his handwriting, +which, sleeping or waking, it seems, was +the same; but testifies the greatest horror and +astonishment at the information the document +contains, which was quite as unexpected to himself +as to the rest of the company.</p> + +<p>His high office, however, we must presume, +exempts him from all responsibility; for the only +result of the discovery is an earnest recommendation +from his friends, particularly the old and young +doctors, that he should travel for the purpose of +recovering his spirits.</p> + +<p>There is a little episode, by the way, from which +we learn, that once, in one of his alarming slumbers, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span> +this amiable but unfortunate man gave symptoms +of wishing to murder his wife and child; in +consequence of which, it is proposed by the doctors +that this tour for the restoration of his spirits +should be made without them. To this separation +Balthazar strongly objects, and tells his beautiful +wife, with much tenderness, that he shall find it +very dull without her.</p> + +<p>To this the lady, though naturally rather afraid +of him, answers with great sweetness, that in +that case she shall be extremely happy to go with +him; adding tenderly, that she would willingly die +to prove her devotion.</p> + +<p>Nothing could be so unfortunate as this expression. +At the bare mention of his hobby-horse, +<i>death</i>, his malady revives, and he instantly manifests +a strong inclination to murder her,—and this +time without even the ceremony of going to sleep.</p> + +<p>Big with the darling thought, his eyes rolling, +his cheek pale, his bristling hair on end, and the +awful genius of Melodrame swelling in every vein, +Balthazar seats himself on the sofa beside his +trembling wife, and taking the comb out of her +(Mademoiselle Noblet's) beautiful hair, appears +about to strangle her in the rope of jet that he +pulls out to its utmost length, and twists, and +twists, and twists, till one really feels a cold shiver +from head to foot. But at length, at the very +moment when matters seem drawing to a close, +the lady throws herself lovingly on his bosom, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span> +his purpose changes, or at least for a moment +seems to change, and he relaxes his hold.</p> + +<p>At this critical juncture the two doctors enter. +Balthazar looks at them wildly, then at his wife, +then at the doctors again, and finally tells them +all that he must beg leave to retire for a few +moments. He passes through the group, who +look at him in mournful silence; but as he approaches +the door, he utters the word 'poison,' +then enters, and locks and bolts it after him.</p> + +<p>Upon this the lady screams, and the two doctors +fly for a crow-bar. The door is burst open, and +the <i>procureur du roi</i> comes forward, wide awake, +but having swallowed the poison he had mentioned.</p> + +<p>This being "the last scene of all that ends this +strange eventful history," the curtain falls upon +the enthusiastic attorney-general as he expires in +the arms of his wife and friends.</p> + +<p>We are always so apt, when we see anything +remarkably absurd abroad, to flatter ourselves with +the belief that nothing like it exists at home, that +I am almost afraid to draw a parallel between this +inconceivable trash, and the very worst and vilest +piece that ever was permitted to keep possession +of the stage in England, lest some one better +informed on the subject than myself should quote +some British enormity unknown to me, and so +prove my patriotic theory false.</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, I cannot quit the subject without +saying, that as far as my knowledge and belief +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span> +go, English people never did sit by hundreds and +listen patiently to such stuff as this. There is +no very atrocious vice, no terrific wickedness in +the piece, as far as I could understand its recondite +philosophy; but its silliness surely possesses the +silliness of a little child. The grimaces, the dumb +show, the newly-invented passions, and the series +of impossible events, which drag through these +five longsome acts, seem to show a species of +anomaly in the human mind that composed the +piece, to which I imagine no parallel can be found +on record.</p> + +<p>Is this the result of the march of mind?—is it +the fruit of that universal diffusion of knowledge +which we are told is at work throughout the world, +but most busily in France?... I shall never +understand the mystery, let me meditate upon it +as long as I will. No! never shall I understand +how a French audience, lively, witty, acute, and +prone to seize upon whatever is ridiculous, can +thus sit night after night with profound gravity, +and the highest apparent satisfaction, to witness +the incredible absurdity of such a piece as "Le +Monomane."</p> + +<p>There is one way, and one way only, in which +the success of this drama can be accounted for intelligibly. +May it not be, that "<span class="smcap">les jeunes gens</span>," +wanton in their power, have determined in merry +mood to mystify their fellow-citizens by passing a +favourable judgment upon this tedious performance? +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span> +And may they not now be enjoying the +success of their plot in ecstasies of private laughter, +at seeing how meekly the dutiful Parisians go +nightly to the Porte St. Martin, and sit in obedient +admiration of what it has pleased their +youthful tyrants to denominate "a fine drama"?</p> + +<p>But I must leave off guessing; for, as the wise +man saith, "the finding out of parables is a wearisome +labour of the mind."</p> + +<p>Some critic, speaking of the new school of +French dramatists, says that "they have heaved +the ground under the feet of Racine and Corneille." +If this indeed be so, the best thing that the lovers +of tragedy can do is to sit at home and wait patiently +till the earth settles itself again from the +shock of so deplorable an earthquake. That it +will settle itself again, I have neither doubt nor +fear. Nonsense has nothing of immortality in its +nature; and when the storm which has scattered +all this frothy scum upon us shall have fairly +blown over and passed away, then I suspect that +Corneille and Racine will still find solid standing-ground +on the soil of France;—nay, should they +by chance find also that their old niches in the +temple of her great men remain vacant, it is likely +enough that they may be again invited to take +possession of them; and they may keep it too +perhaps for a few more hundred years, with very +little danger that any greater than they should +arrive to take their places.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XIV.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +The Gardens of the Tuileries.—Legitimatist.—Republican—Doctrinaire.—Children.—Dress +of the Ladies.—Of the +Gentlemen.—Black Hair.—Unrestricted Admission.—Anecdote.</p> + +<p>Is there anything in the world that can be +fairly said to resemble the Gardens of the Tuileries? +I should think not. It is a whole made up of so +many strongly-marked and peculiar features, that +it is not probable any other place should be found +like it. To my fancy, it seems one of the most +delightful scenes in the world; and I never enter +there, though it is long since the enchantment of +novelty made any part of the charm, without a +fresh feeling of enjoyment.</p> + +<p>The <i>locale</i> itself, independent of the moving +throng which for ever seems to dwell within it, is +greatly to my taste: I love all the detail of its +embellishment, and I dearly love the bright and +happy aspect of the whole. But on this subject I +know there are various opinions: many talk with +distaste of the straight lines, the clipped trees, the +formal flower-beds, the ugly roofs,—nay, some will +even abuse the venerable orange-trees themselves, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span> +because they grow in square boxes, and do not +wave their boughs in the breeze like so many +ragged willow-trees.</p> + +<p>But I agree not with any one of these objections; +and should think it as reasonable, and in as good +taste, to quarrel with Westminster Abbey because +it did not look like a Grecian temple, as to find +fault with the Gardens of the Tuileries because +they are arranged like French pleasure-grounds, +and not like an English park. For my own part, +I profess that I would not, if I had the power, +change even in the least degree a single feature in +this pleasant spot: enter it at what hour or at +what point I will, it ever seems to receive me with +smiles and gladness.</p> + +<p>We seldom suffer a day to pass without refreshing +our spirits by sitting for a while amidst its +shade and its flowers. From the part of the town +where we are now dwelling, the gate opposite the +Place Vendôme is our nearest entrance; and perhaps +from no point does the lively beauty of the +whole scene show itself better than from beneath +the green roof of the terrace-walk, to which this +gate admits us.</p> + +<p>To the right, the dark mass of unshorn trees, +now rich with the flowers of the horse-chesnut, +and growing as boldly and as loftily as the most +English-hearted gardener could desire, leads the +eye through a very delicious "continuity of shade" +to the magnificent gate that opens upon the Place +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span> +Louis-Quinze. To the left is the widely-spreading +façade of the Tuileries Palace, the ungraceful +elevation of the pavilion roofs, well nigh forgotten, +and quite atoned for by the beauty of +the gardens at their feet. Then, just where the +shade of the high trees ceases, and the bright +blaze of sunshine begins, what multitudes of +sweet flowers are seen blushing in its beams! +An universal lilac bloom seems at this season +to spread itself over the whole space; and every +breeze that passes by, comes to us laden with +perfume. My daily walk is almost always the +same,—I love it so well that I do not like to +change it. Following the shady terrace by which +we enter to the point where it sinks down to the +level of the magnificent esplanade in front of the +palace, we turn to the right, and endure the splendid +brightness till we reach the noble walk leading +from the gateway of the centre pavilion, through +flowers, statues, orange-trees, and chesnut-groves, +as far as the eye can reach, till it reposes at last +upon the lofty arch of the Barrière de l'Etoile.</p> + +<p>This <i>coup-d'œil</i> is so beautiful, that I constantly +feel renewed pleasure when I look upon it. I do +indeed confess myself to be one of those "who in +trim gardens take their pleasure." I love the +studied elegance, the carefully-selected grace of +every object permitted to meet the pampered eye +in such a spot as this. I love these fondly-nurtured +princely exotics, the old orange-trees, ranged +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span> +in their long stately rows; and better still do I +love the marble groups, that stand so nobly, +sometimes against the bright blue sky, and sometimes +half concealed in the dark setting of the +trees. Everything seems to speak of taste, luxury, +and elegance.</p> + +<p>Having indulged in a lingering walk from the +palace to the point at which the sunshine ceases +and the shade begins, a new species of interest +and amusement awaits us. Thousands of chairs +scattered just within the shelter of this inviting +covert are occupied by an interminable variety of +pretty groups.</p> + +<p>I wonder how many months of constant attendance +there, it would take before I should grow +weary of studying the whole and every separate +part of this bright picture? It is really matchless +in beauty as a spectacle, and unequalled in interest +as a national study. All Paris may in turn be +seen and examined there; and nowhere is it so +easy to distinguish specimens of the various and +strongly-marked divisions of the people.</p> + +<p>This morning we took possession of half a dozen +chairs under the trees which front the beautiful +group of Pelus and Aria. It was the hour when +all the newspapers are in the greatest requisition; +and we had the satisfaction of watching the studies +of three individuals, each of whom might have sat +as a model for an artist who wished to give an +idea of their several peculiarities. We saw, in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span> +short, beyond the possibility of doubt, a royalist, +a doctrinaire, and a republican, during the half-hour +we remained there, all soothing their feelings +by indulging in two sous' worth of politics, each in +his own line.</p> + +<p>A stiff but gentleman-like old man first came, +and having taken a journal from the little octagon +stand—which journal we felt quite sure was either +"La France" or "La Quotidienne"—he established +himself at no great distance from us. Why it +was that we all felt so certain of his being a legitimatist +I can hardly tell you, but not one of +the party had the least doubt about it. There +was a quiet, half-proud, half-melancholy air of +keeping himself apart; an aristocratical cast of +features; a pale care-worn complexion; and a +style of dress which no vulgar man ever wore, but +which no rich one would be likely to wear to-day. +This is all I can record of him: but there was +something pervading his whole person too essentially +loyal to be misunderstood, yet too delicate +in its tone to be coarsely painted. Such as it was, +however, we felt it quite enough to make the +matter sure; and if I could find out that old gentleman +to be either doctrinaire or republican, I +never would look on a human countenance again +in order to discover what was passing within.</p> + +<p>The next who approached us we were equally +sure was a republican: but here the discovery did +little honour to our discernment; for these gentry +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span> +choose to leave no doubt upon the subject of their +<i>clique</i>, but contrive that every article contributing +to the appearance of the outward man shall become +a symbol and a sign, a token and a stigma, +of the madness that possesses them. He too held +a paper in his hand, and without venturing to +approach too nearly to so alarming a personage, +we scrupled not to assure each other that the +journal he was so assiduously perusing was "Le +Réformateur."</p> + +<p>Just as we had decided what manner of man +it was who was stalking so majestically past us, a +comfortable-looking citizen approached in the uniform +of the National Guard, who sat himself down +to his daily allowance of politics with the air of +a person expecting to be well pleased with what +he finds, but nevertheless too well contented with +himself and all things about him to care over-much +about it. Every line of this man's jocund +face, every curve of his portly figure, spoke contentment +and well-being. He was probably one +of that very new race in France, a tradesman +making a rapid fortune. Was it possible to doubt +that the paper in his hand was "Le Journal des +Débats?" was it possible to believe that this man +was other than a prosperous doctrinaire?</p> + +<div class="figcenter p6" style="width: 408px;"><a name="illo2" id="illo2"></a> +<img src="images/ill127.jpg" width="408" height="600" alt="Morning at the Tuileries" /> +<p class="s05">Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu.</p> +<p class="caption smcap">Morning at the Tuileries</p> +<p class="caption s05">London, Published by Richard Bentley, 1835.</p> +</div> + +<p>Thus, on the neutral ground furnished by these +delightful gardens, hostile spirits meet with impunity, +and, though they mingle not, enjoy in common +the delicious privileges of cool shade, fresh +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span> +air, and the idle luxury of an <i>al fresco</i> newspaper, +in the midst of a crowded and party-split city, +with as much certainty of being unchallenged and +uninterrupted as if each were wandering alone in +a princely domain of his own.</p> + +<p>Such, too, as are not over splenetic may find a +very lively variety of study in watching the ways +of the little dandies and dandiesses who, at some +hours of the day, swarm like so many hummingbirds +amidst the shade and sunshine of the Tuileries. +Either these little French personages are +marvellously well-behaved, or there is some superintending +care which prevents screaming; for I +certainly never saw so many young things assembled +together who indulged so rarely in that salutary +exercise of the lungs which makes one so +often tremble at the approach of</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"Soft infancy, that nothing can, but cry."</p> + +<p>The costumes of these pretty creatures contribute +not a little to the amusement; it is often so +whimsical as to give them the appearance of +miniature maskers. I have seen little fellows +beating a hoop in the full uniform of a National +Guard; others waddling under the mimicry of +kilted Highlanders; and small ladies without +number in every possible variety of un-babylike +apparel.</p> + +<p>The entertainment to be derived from sitting +in the Tuileries Gardens and studying costume is, +however, by no means confined to the junior part +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span> +of the company. In no country have I ever seen +anything approaching in grotesque habiliments to +some of the figures daily and hourly met lounging +about these walks. But such vagaries are confined +wholly to the male part of the population; +it is very rare to see a woman outrageously dressed +in any way; and if you do, the chances are +five hundred to one that she is not a Frenchwoman. +An air of quiet elegant neatness is, I think, +the most striking characteristic of the walking +costume of the French ladies. All the little minor +finishings of the female toilet appear to be +more sedulously cared for than the weightier +matters of the pelisse and gown. Every lady you +meet is <i>bien chaussée</i>, <i>bien gantée</i>. Her ribbons, +if they do not match her dress, are sure to accord +with it; and for all the delicate garniture that +comes under the care of the laundress, it should +seem that Paris alone, of all the earth, knows +how to iron.</p> + +<p>The whimsical caprices of male attire, on the +contrary, defy anything like general remark; unless, +indeed, it be that the air of Paris appears to +have the quality of turning all the <i>imperials</i>, <i>favoris</i>, +and <i>moustaches</i> which dwell within its walls +to jetty blackness. At a little distance, the young +men have really the air of having their faces tied +up with black ribbon as a cure for the mumps; +and, handsome as this dark <i>chevelure</i> is generally +allowed to be, the heavy uniformity of it at +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span> +present very considerably lessens its striking effect. +When every man has his face half covered with +black hair, it ceases to be a very valuable distinction. +Perhaps, too, the frequent advertisements of +compositions infallible in their power of turning +the hair to any colour except "what pleases God," +may tend to make one look with suspicious eyes +at these once fascinating southern decorations; +but, at present, I take it to be an undoubted fact, +that a clean, close-shaven, northern-looking gentleman +is valued at a high premium in every +<i>salon</i> in Paris.</p> + +<p>It is not to be denied that the "glorious and +immortal days" have done some injury to the general +appearance of the Tuileries Gardens. Before +this period, no one was permitted to enter them +dressed in a <i>blouse</i>, or jacket, or <i>casquette</i>; and no +one, either male or female, might carry bundles or +baskets through these pretty regions, sacred to +relaxation and holiday enjoyment. But liberty +and unseemly sordidness of attire being somehow +or other jumbled together in the minds of the +sovereign mob,—not sovereign either—the mob is +only vice-regal in Paris as yet;—but the mob, +however, such as it is, has obtained, as a mark of +peculiar respect and favour to themselves, a new +law or regulation, by which it is enacted that these +royal precincts may become like unto Noah's ark, +and that both clean and unclean beasts may enter +here. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span></p> + +<p>Could one wish for a better specimen of the +sort of advantage to be gained by removing the +restraint of authority in order to pamper the +popular taste for what they are pleased to call +freedom? Not one of the persons who enter the +gardens now, were restricted from entering them +before; only it was required that they should be +decently clad;—that is to say, in such garments as +they were accustomed to wear on Sunday or any +other holiday; the only occasions, one should imagine, +on which the working classes could wish to +profit by permission to promenade in a public +garden: but the obligation to appear clean in the +garden of the king's palace was an infringement +on their liberty, so that formality is dispensed +with; and they have now obtained the distinguished +and ennobling privilege of being as dirty +and ill-dressed as they like.</p> + +<p>The power formerly intrusted to the sentinel, +wherever there was one stationed, of refusing the +<i>entrée</i> to all persons not properly dressed, gave +occasion once to a saucy outbreaking of French +wit in one of the National Guard, which was +amusing enough. This civic guardian was stationed +at the gates of a certain <i>Mairie</i> on some +public occasion, with the usual injunction not to +permit any person "<i>mal-mise</i>" to enter. An <i>incroyable</i> +presented himself, not dressed in the +fashion, but immoderately beyond it. The sentinel +looked at him, and lowered his piece across +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span> +the entrance, pronouncing in a voice of authority—</p> + +<p>"You cannot enter."</p> + +<p>"Not enter?" exclaimed the astonished beau, +looking down at the exquisite result of his laborious +toilet; "not enter?—forbid me to enter, sir?—impossible! +What is it you mean? Let me +pass, I say!"</p> + +<p>The imperturbable sentinel stood like a rock +before the entrance: "My orders are precise," +he said, "and I may not infringe them."</p> + +<p>"Precise? Your orders precise to refuse me?"</p> + +<p>"Oui, monsieur, précis, de refuser qui que ce +soit que je trouve mal-mis."</p> + +<h2>LETTER XV.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Street Police.—Cleaning Beds.—Tinning Kettles.—Building +Houses.—Loading Carts.—Preparing for the Scavenger.—Want +of Drains.—Bad Pavement.—Darkness.</p> + +<p>My last letter was of the Tuileries Gardens; +a theme which furnished me so many subjects +of admiration, that I think, if only for the sake of +variety, I will let the smelfungus vein prevail to-day. +Such, then, being my humour,—or my ill-humour, +if you will,—I shall indulge it by telling +you what I think of the street-police of Paris.</p> + +<p>I will not tell you that it is bad, for that, I +doubt not, many others may have done before me; +but I will tell you that I consider it as something +wonderful, mysterious, incomprehensible, and perfectly +astonishing.</p> + +<p>In a city where everything intended to meet +the eye is converted into graceful ornament; +where the shops and coffee-houses have the air +of fairy palaces, and the markets show fountains +wherein the daintiest naïads might delight to +bathe;—in such a city as this, where the women +look too delicate to belong wholly to earth, and +the men too watchful and observant to suffer the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span> +winds of heaven to visit them too roughly;—in +such a city as this, you are shocked and disgusted +at every step you take, or at every gyration that +the wheels of your chariot can make, by sights +and smells that may not be described.</p> + +<p>Every day brings my astonishment on this +subject to a higher pitch than the one which +preceded it; for every day brings with it fresh +conviction that a very considerable portion of the +enjoyment of life is altogether destroyed in Paris +by the neglect or omission of such a degree of municipal +interference as might secure the most elegant +people in the world from the loathsome disgust +occasioned by the perpetual outrage of common +decency in their streets.</p> + +<p>On this branch of the subject it is impossible to +say more; but there are other points on which +the neglect of street-police is as plainly, though +less disgustingly, apparent; and some of these I +will enumerate for your information, as they may +be described without impropriety; but when they +are looked at in conjunction with the passion for +graceful decoration, so decidedly a characteristic +of the French people, they offer to our observation +an incongruity so violent, as to puzzle in no +ordinary degree whoever may wish to explain it.</p> + +<p>You cannot at this season pass through any +street in Paris, however pre-eminently fashionable +from its situation, or however distinguished by the +elegance of those who frequent it, without being +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span> +frequently obliged to turn aside, that you may not +run against two or more women covered with +dust, and probably with vermin, who are busily +employed in pulling their flock mattresses to +pieces in the street. There they stand or sit, +caring for nobody, but combing, turning, and +shaking the wool upon all comers and goers; and, +finally, occupying the space round which many +thousand passengers are obliged to make what is +always an inconvenient, and sometimes a very +dirty <i>détour</i>, by poking the material, cleared from +the filth, which has passed into the throats of the +gentlemen and ladies of Paris, back again into its +checked repository.</p> + +<p>I have within this half-hour passed from the +Italian Boulevard by the Opera-house, in the front +of which this obscene and loathsome operation was +being performed by a solitary old crone, who will +doubtless occupy the place she has chosen during +the whole day, and carry away her bed just in +time to permit the Duke of Orleans to step from +his carriage into the Opera without tumbling over +it, but certainly not in time to prevent his having +a great chance of receiving as he passes some portion +of the various animate and inanimate superfluities +which for so many hours she has been +scattering to the air.</p> + +<p>A few days ago I saw a well-dressed gentleman +receive a severe contusion on the head, and the +most overwhelming destruction to the neatness of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span> +his attire, in consequence of a fall occasioned by +his foot getting entangled in the apparatus of a +street-working tinker, who had his charcoal fire, +bellows, melting-pot, and all other things necessary +for carrying on the tinning trade in a small +way, spread forth on the pavement of the Rue de +Provence.</p> + +<p>When the accident happened, many persons +were passing, all of whom seemed to take a very +obliging degree of interest in the misfortune of +the fallen gentleman; but not a syllable either of +remonstrance or remark was uttered concerning +the invasion of the highway by the tinker; nor +did that wandering individual himself appear to +think any apology called for, or any change in the +arrangement of his various chattels necessary.</p> + +<p>Whenever a house is to be built or repaired in +London, the first thing done is to surround the +premises with a high paling, that shall prevent +any of the operations that are going on within it +from annoying in any way the public in the +street. The next thing is to arrange a footpath +round this paling, carefully protected by posts +and rails, so that this unavoidable invasion of +the ordinary foot-path may be productive of as +little inconvenience as possible.</p> + +<p>Were you to pass a spot in Paris under similar +circumstances, you would fancy that some tremendous +accident—a fire, perhaps, or the falling +in of a roof—had occasioned a degree of difficulty +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span> +and confusion to the passengers which it was +impossible to suppose could be suffered to remain +an hour unremedied: but it is, on the contrary, +permitted to continue, to the torment and danger +of daily thousands, for months together, without +the slightest notice or objection on the part of the +municipal authorities. If a cart be loading or +unloading in the street, it is permitted to take +and keep a position the most inconvenient, in +utter disregard of any danger or delay which it +may and must occasion to the carriages and foot-passengers +who have to travel round it.</p> + +<p>Nuisances and abominations of all sorts are +without scruple committed to the street at any +hour of the day or night, to await the morning +visit of the scavenger to remove them: and happy +indeed is it for the humble pedestrian if his +eye and nose alone suffer from these ejectments; +happy, indeed, if he comes not in contact with +them, as they make their unceremonious exit +from window or door. "<i>Quel bonheur!</i>" is the +exclamation if he escapes; but a look, wholly in +sorrow and nowise in anger, is the only helpless +resource should he be splashed from head to +foot.</p> + +<p>On the subject of that monstrous barbarism, a +gutter in the middle of the streets expressly +formed for the reception of filth, which is still +permitted to deform the greater portion of this +beautiful city, I can only say, that the patient +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span> +endurance of it by men and women of the year +one thousand eight hundred and thirty-five is a +mystery difficult to understand.</p> + +<p>It really appears to me, that almost the only +thing in the world which other men do, but which +Frenchmen cannot, is the making of sewers and +drains. After an hour or two of very violent +rain last week, that part of the Place Louis-Quinze +which is near the entrance to the Champs +Elysées remained covered with water. The Board +of Works having waited for a day or two to see +what would happen, and finding that the muddy +lake did not disappear, commanded the assistance +of twenty-six able-bodied labourers, who set about +digging just such a channel as little boys amuse +themselves by making beside a pond. By this +well-imagined engineering exploit, the stagnant +water was at length conducted to the nearest +gutter; the pickaxes were shouldered, and an +open muddy channel left to adorn this magnificent +area, which, were a little finishing bestowed +upon it, would probably be the finest point that +any city in the world could boast.</p> + +<p>Perhaps it will hardly be fair to set it amongst +my complaints against the streets of Paris, that +they have not yet adopted our last and most +luxurious improvement. I cannot but observe, +however, that having passed some weeks here, I +feel that the Macadamised streets of London +ought to become the subject of a metropolitan +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span> +jubilee among us. The exceeding noise of Paris, +proceeding either from the uneven structure of +the pavement, or from the defective construction +of wheels and springs, is so violent and incessant +as to appear like the effect of one great continuous +cause,—a sort of demon torment, which it +must require great length of use to enable one to +endure without suffering. Were a cure for this +sought in the Macadamising of the streets, an +additional advantage, by the bye, would be obtained, +from the difficulties it would throw in the way +of the future heroes of a barricade.</p> + +<p>There is another defect, however, and one much +more easily remedied, which may fairly, I think, +come under the head of defective street-police. +This is the profound darkness of every part of the +city in which there are not shops illuminated by +the owners of them with gas. This is done so +brilliantly on the Boulevards by the <i>cafés</i> and +<i>restaurans</i>, that the dim old-fashioned lamp suspended +at long intervals across the <i>pavé</i> is forgotten. +But no sooner is this region of light and +gaiety left, than you seem to plunge into outer +darkness; and there is not a little country town +in England which is not incomparably better +lighted than any street in Paris which depends +for its illumination upon the public regulations +of the city.</p> + +<p>As it is evident that gas-pipes must be actually +laid in all directions in order to supply the individuals +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span> +who employ it in their houses, I could in +no way understand why these most dismal <i>réverbères</i>, +with their dingy oil, were to be made use of +in preference to the beautiful light which almost +outblazes that of the sun; but I am told that +some unexpired contract between Paris and her +lamplighters is the cause of this. Were the convenience +of the public as sedulously studied in +France as in England, not all the claims of all +the lamplighters in the world, let it cost what it +might to content them, would keep her citizens +groping in darkness when it was so very easy to +give them light.</p> + +<p>But not to dwell ungratefully upon the grievances +which certainly disfigure this city of delight, +I will not multiply instances; yet I am sure I +may assert, without fear of contradiction or reproach, +that such a street-police as that of London +would be one of the greatest civic blessings +that King Philippe could possibly bestow upon +his "<i>belle ville de Paris</i>."</p> + +<h2>LETTER XVI.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Preparations for the Fête du Roi.—Arrival of Troops.—Champs +Elysées.—Concert in the Garden of the Tuileries.—Silence +of the People.—Fireworks.</p> + +<p class="ltrhead"> +May 2, 1835.</p> + +<p>For several days past we have been watching +the preparations for the King's fête, which though +not quite equal to those in the days of the +Emperor, when all the fountains in Paris ran +wine, were on a large and splendid scale, and if +more sober, were perhaps not less princely. Temporary +theatres, ball-rooms, and orchestras in the +Champs Elysées—magnificent fireworks on the +Pont Louis-Seize—preparations for a full concert +immediately in front of the Tuileries Palace, and +arrangement of lamps for general illuminations, +but especially in the Gardens, were the chief of +these; but none of them struck us so much as +the daily-increasing number of troops. National +Guards and soldiers of the line divided the streets +between them; and as a grand review was naturally +to make a part of the day's pageantry, there +would have been nothing to remark in this, were +it not that the various parties into which the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span> +country is divided perpetually leads people to suppose +that King Philippe finds it necessary to act +on the defensive.</p> + +<p>Numberless are the hints, as you may imagine, +on this theme that have been thrown out on the +present occasion; and it is confidently asserted in +some quarters, that the reviewing of large bodies of +troops is likely to become a very fashionable and +frequent, if not a very popular, amusement here. +If, indeed, a show of force be necessary to ensure +the tranquillity of this strife-worn land, the government +certainly do right in displaying it; but if +this be not the case, there is some imprudence +in it, for the effect much resembles that of</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1"> +"A rich armour, worn in heat of day,</p> +<p>That scalds with safety."</p> +</div> + +<p>Yesterday, then, being marked in the calendar +as sacred to St. Jacques and St. Philippe, was kept +as the fête of the present King of the French. +The weather was brilliant, and everything looked +gay, particularly around the courtly region of the +Tuileries, Champs Elysées, and all parts near or +between them.</p> + +<p>Being assured by a philosophical looker-on upon +all such assemblings of the people as are likely to +show forth indications of their temper, that the +humours of the Champs Elysées would display +more of this than I could hope to find elsewhere, +I was about to order a carriage to convey us +there; but my friend stopped me. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span></p> + +<p>"You may as well remain at home," said he; +"from a carriage you will see nothing but a +mob: but if you will walk amongst them, you +may perhaps find out whether they are thinking +of anything or nothing."</p> + +<p>"Anything?—or nothing?" I repeated. "Does +the <i>anything</i> mean a revolution? Tell me truly, +is there any chance of a riot?"</p> + +<p>Instead of answering, he turned to a gentleman +of our party who was just returned from the +review of the troops by the king.</p> + +<p>"Did you not say you had seen the review?" +he demanded.</p> + +<p>"Yes; I am just come from it."</p> + +<p>"And what do you think of the troops?"</p> + +<p>"They are very fine troops,—remarkably fine +men, both the National Guards and the troops of +the line."</p> + +<p>"And in sufficient force, are they not, to keep +Paris quiet if she should feel disposed to be frolicsome?"</p> + +<p>"Certainly—I should think so."</p> + +<p>It was therefore determined, leaving the younger +part of the females behind us however in case of +the worst, that we should repair to the Champs +Elysées.</p> + +<p>No one who has not seen a public fête celebrated +at Paris can form an idea of the scene which the +whole of this extensive area presents: it makes me +giddy even to remember it. Imagine a hundred +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span> +swings throwing their laughing cargoes high into +the air; a hundred winged ships flying in endless +whirl, and bearing for their crews a <i>tête-à-tête</i> pair +of holiday sweethearts: imagine a hundred horses, +each with two prancing hoofs high poised in air, +coursing each other in a circle, with nostrils of +flame; a hundred mountebanks, chattering and +gibbering their inconceivable jargon, some habited +as generals, some as Turks,—some offering their +nostrums in the impressive habit of an Armenian +Jew, and others rolling head-over-heels upon a +stage, and presenting a dose with the grin of +Grimaldi. We stopped more than once in our +progress to watch the ways of one of these animals +when it had succeeded in fascinating its +prey: the poor victim was cajoled and coaxed +into believing that none of woman born could +ever taste of evil more, if he would but trust to +the one only true, sure, and certain specific.</p> + +<p>At all sides of us, as we advanced, we were +skirted by long lines of booths, decked with gaudy +merchandise, rings, clasps, brooches, buckles, most +tempting to behold, and all to be had for five sous +each. It is pretty enough to watch the eager +glances and the smirking smiles of the damsels, +with the yielding, tender looks of the fond boys +who hover round these magazines of female +trumpery. Alas! it is perhaps but the beginning +of sorrow!</p> + +<p>In the largest open space afforded by these +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span> +Elysian fields were erected two theatres, the interval +between them holding, it was said, twenty +thousand spectators. While one of these performed +a piece, pantomimic I believe, the other +enjoyed a <i>relâche</i> and reposed itself: but the +instant the curtain of one fell, that of the other +rose, and the ocean of heads which filled the space +between them turned, and undulated like the +waves of the sea, ebbing and flowing, backwards +and forwards, as the moon-struck folly attracted +them.</p> + +<p>Four ample <i>al fresco</i> enclosures prepared for +dancing, each furnished with a very respectable +orchestra, occupied the extreme corners of this +space; and notwithstanding the crowd, the heat, +the sunshine, and the din, this exercise, which was +carried on immediately under them, did not, I was +told, cease for a single instant during the whole of +that long summer-day. When one set of fiddlers +were tired out, another succeeded. The activity, +gaiety, and universal good-humour of this enormous +mob were uniform and uninterrupted from +morning to night.</p> + +<p>These people really deserve fêtes; they enjoy +them so heartily, yet so peaceably.</p> + +<p>Such were the great and most striking features +of the jubilee; but we hardly advanced a single +step through the throng which did not exhibit +to us some minor trait of national and characteristic +revelry. I was delighted to observe, however, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span> +throughout the whole of my expedition, that, +according to our friend's definition, "<i>nobody was +thinking of anything</i>."</p> + +<p>But what pleased me incomparably more than +all the rest was the temperate style of the popular +refreshments. The young men and the old, the +time-worn matron and the dainty damsel, all alike +slaked their thirst with iced lemonade, which was +furnished in incredible quantities by numberless +ambulant cisterns, at the price of one sou the +glass. Happily this light-hearted, fête-loving population +have no gin-palaces to revel in.</p> + +<p>But hunger was to be satisfied as well as thirst; +and here the <i>friand</i> taste of the people displayed +itself by dozens of little chafing-dishes lodged at +intervals under the trees, each with its presiding +old woman, who, holding a frying-pan, for ever +redolent of onions, over the coals, screamed in +shrill accents the praises of her <i>saucisses</i> and her +<i>foie</i>. This was the only part of the business that +was really disagreeable: the odour from these <i>al +fresco</i> kitchens was not, I confess, very pleasant; +but everything else pleased me exceedingly. It +was the first time I ever saw a real mob in full +jubilee; and I did not believe it possible I could +have been so much amused, and so not at all +frightened. Even before one of these terribly +odoriferant kitchens, I could not help pausing +for a moment as I passed, to admire the polite +style in which an old woman who had taken +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span> +early possession of the shade of a tree for her +<i>restaurant</i> defended the station from the wheelbarrow +of a merchant of gingerbread who approached +it.</p> + +<p>"Pardon, monsieur!... Ne venez pas, je vous +prie, déranger mon établissement."</p> + +<p>The two grotesque old figures, together with +their fittings up, made this dignified address delightful; +and as it was answered by a bow, and +the respectful drawing back of the wheelbarrow, +I cannot but give it the preference over the more +energetic language which a similar circumstance +would be likely to produce at Bartholomew Fair.</p> + +<p>Altogether we were infinitely amused by this +excursion; but I think I never was more completely +fatigued in my life. Nevertheless, I contrived +to repose myself sufficiently to join a large +party to the Tuileries Gardens in the evening, +where we were assured that <i>two hundred thousand +persons</i> were collected. The crowd was indeed +very great, and the party soon found it impossible +to keep together; but about three hours afterwards +we had the satisfaction of assembling in safety at +the same pleasant mansion from which we set out.</p> + +<p>The attraction which during the early part of +the evening chiefly drew together the crowd was +the orchestra in front of the palace. A large military +band were stationed there, and continued +playing, while the thousands and tens of thousands +of lamps were being lighted all over the gardens. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</a></span></p> + +<p>During this time, the king, queen, and royal +family appeared on the balcony. And here the +only fault which I had perceived in this pretty +fête throughout the day showed itself so strongly +as to produce a very disagreeable effect. From +first to last, it seemed that the cause of the jubilee +was forgotten; not a sound of any kind greeted +the appearance of the royal party. That so gay +and demonstrative a people, assembled in such +numbers, and on such an occasion, should remain +with uplifted heads, gazing on the sovereign, +without a sound being uttered by any single voice, +appeared perfectly astonishing. However, if there +were no bravoes, there was decidedly no hissing.</p> + +<p>The scene itself was one of enchanting gaiety. +Before us rose the illuminated pavilions of the +Tuileries: the bright lights darting through the +oleanders and myrtles on the balcony, showed to +advantage the royal party stationed there. On +every side were trees, statues, flowers, brought out +to view by unnumbered lamps rising in brilliant +pyramids among them, while the inspiring sounds +of martial music resounded in the midst. The +<i>jets d'eau</i>, catching the artificial light, sprang high +into the air like arrows of fire, then turned into +spray, and descended again in light showers, +seeming to shed delicious coolness on the crowd; +and behind them, far as the eye could reach, +stretched the suburban forest, sparkling with festoons +of lamps, that seemed drawn out, "fine +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</a></span> +by degrees and beautifully less," up to the Barrière +de l'Etoile. The scene itself was indeed lovely; +and if, instead of the heavy silence with which it +was regarded, a loud heartfelt cheering had greeted +the <i>jour de fête</i> of a long-loved king, it would +have been perfect.</p> + +<p>The fireworks, too, were superb; and though +all the theatres in Paris were opened gratis to the +public, and, as we afterwards heard, completely +filled, the multitudes that thronged to look at +them seemed enough to people a dozen cities. +But it is so much the habit of this people, old and +young, rich and poor, to live out of doors, that a +slight temptation "bye common" is sufficient to +draw forth every human being who is able to stand +alone: and indeed, of those who are not, thousands +are deposited in chairs, and other thousands in +the arms of mothers and nurses.</p> + +<p>The Pont Louis-Seize was the point from +which all the fireworks were let off. No spot +could have been better chosen: the terraces of the +Tuileries looked down upon it; and the whole +length of the quays, on both sides of the river, as +far as the <i>Cité</i>, looked up to it, and the persons +stationed on them must have seen clearly the +many-coloured fires that blazed there.</p> + +<p>One of the prettiest popular contrivances for +creating a shout when fireworks are exhibited +here, is to have rockets, sending up tri-coloured +balls, blue, white, and red, in rapid succession, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span> +looking, as I heard a young republican say, "like +winged messengers, from their loved banner up +to heaven." I could not help remarking, that if +the messengers repeated faithfully all that the +tri-coloured banner had done, they would have +strange tales to tell.</p> + +<p>The <i>bouquet</i>, or last grand display that finished +the exhibition, was very fanciful and very splendid: +but what struck me as the prettiest part of the +whole show, was the Chamber of Deputies, the +architecture of which was marked by lines of +light; and the magnificent flight of steps leading +to it having each one its unbroken fencing of fire, +was perhaps intended as a mystical type of the +ordeal to be passed in a popular election before +this temple of wisdom could be entered.</p> + +<p>How very delightful was the abounding tea of +that hot lamp-lit night!... And how very thankful +was I this morning, at one o'clock, to feel that +the <i>fête du roi</i> was peaceably over, and I ready to +fall soundly to sleep in my bed!</p> + +<h2>LETTER XVII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Political chances.—Visit from a Republican.—His high spirits +at the prospects before him.—His advice to me respecting +my name.—Removal of the Prisoners from Ste. Pélagie.—Review.—Garde +de Paris.—The National Guard.</p> + +<p>We are so accustomed, in these our luckless +days, to hear of <i>émuetes</i> and rumours of <i>émuetes</i>, +here, there, and everywhere, that we certainly +grow nerve-hardened, and if not quite callous, at +least we are almost reckless of the threat. But +in this city the business of getting up riots on the +one hand, and putting them down on the other, +is carried on in so easy and familiar a manner, +that we daily look for an account of something of +the kind as regularly as for our breakfast bread; +and I begin already to lose in a great degree my +fear of disagreeable results, in the interest with +which I watch what is going on.</p> + +<p>The living in the midst of all these different +parties, and listening first to one and then to +another of them, is to a foreigner much like the +amusement derived by an idle spectator from +walking round a card-table, looking into all the +hands, and then watching the manner in which +each one plays his game. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span></p> + +<p>It has so often happened here, as we all know, +that when the game has appeared over, and the +winner in possession of the stake he played for, +they have on a sudden shuffled the cards and begun +again, that people seem always looking out +for new chances, new bets, new losses, and new +confusion. I can assure you, that it is a game of +considerable movement and animation which is +going on at Paris just now. The political trials +are to commence on Tuesday next, and the republicans +are as busy as a nest of wasps when +conscious that their stronghold is attacked. They +have not only been upon the alert, but hitherto in +great spirits at the prospect before them.</p> + +<p>The same individual whose alarming communications +on this subject I mentioned to you soon +after we came here, called on me again a few days +ago. I never saw a man more altered in the interval +of a few weeks: when I first saw him here, he +was sullen, gloomy, and miserable-looking in the +extreme; but at his last visit he appeared gay, +frolicsome, and happy. He was not disposed, +however, to talk much on politics; and I am persuaded +he came with a fixed determination not to +indulge our curiosity by saying a word on the +subject. But "out of the fulness of the heart the +mouth speaketh;" and this gentleman did not depart +without giving us some little intimation of +what was passing in his.</p> + +<p>Observe, that I do no treason in repeating to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span> +you whatever this young man said in my hearing; +for he assured me the first time I ever saw him, +that he knew me to be "<i>une absolutiste enragée</i>;" +but that, so far from fearing to speak freely before +me, there was nothing that would give him so +much pleasure as believing that I should publish +every word he uttered on the subject of politics. +I told him in return, that if I did so, it +should be without mentioning his name; for that +I should be truly sorry to hear that he had been +consigned to Ste. Pélagie as a rebel on my evidence. +So we understand each other perfectly.</p> + +<p>On the morning in question, he began talking +gaily and gallantly concerning the pleasures of +Paris, and expressed his hope that we were taking +care to profit by the present interval of public +tranquillity.</p> + +<p>"Is this interval of calm likely to be followed +by a storm?" said one of the party.</p> + +<p>"Mais ... que sais-je?... The weather is so +fine now, you know.... And the opera? en vérité, +c'est superbe!... Have you seen it yet?"</p> + +<p>"Seen what?"</p> + +<p>"Eh! mais, 'La Juive'! ... à présent il n'y a +que cela au monde.... You read the journals?"</p> + +<p>"Yes; Galignani's at least."</p> + +<p>"Ah! ah!" said he, laughing; "c'est assez +pour vous autres."</p> + +<p>"Is there any interesting news to-day in any +of the papers?" +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span></p> + +<p>"Intéressante? ... mais, oui ... assez.... Cependant...." +And then again he rattled on about +plays, balls, concerts, and I know not what.</p> + +<p>"I wish you would tell me," said I, interrupting +him, "whether you think, that in case +any popular movement should occur, the English +would be molested, or in any way annoyed."</p> + +<p>"Non, madame—je ne le crois pas—surtout les +femmes. Cependant, si j'étais vous, Madame Trollope, +je me donnerai pour le moment le nom +d'O'Connell."</p> + +<p>"And that, you think, would be accepted as a +passport through any scene of treason and rebellion?" +said I.</p> + +<p>He laughed again, and said that was not exactly +what he meant; but that O'Connell was a name +revered in France as well as at Rome, and might +very likely belong one day or other to a pope, if +his generous wishes for an Irish republic were too +dear to his heart to permit him ever to accept +the title of king.</p> + +<p>"An Irish republic? ... perhaps that is just +what is wanted," said I. But not wishing to +enter into any discussion on the niceties of speech, +I waived the compliments he began to pay me +on this liberal sentiment, and again asked him if +he thought anything was going on amongst the +friends of the prisoners that might impede the +course of justice.</p> + +<p>Though not aware of the quibble with which I +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span> +had replied to him, he answered me by another, +saying with energy—</p> + +<p>"No! ... never!... They will never do anything +to impede the course of justice."</p> + +<p>"Will they do anything to assist it?" said I.</p> + +<p>He sprang from his chair, gave a bound across +the room, as if to hide his glee by looking out of the +window, and when he showed his face again, said +with much solemnity—"They will do their duty."</p> + +<p>The conversation continued for some time +longer, wavering between politics and dissipation; +and though we could not obtain from him anything +approaching to information respecting what +might be going on among his hot-headed party, +yet it seemed clear that he at least hoped for +something that would lead to important results.</p> + +<p>The riddle was explained a very few hours after +he left us. The political prisoners, most of whom +were lodged in the prison of Ste. Pélagie, have +been removed to the Luxembourg; and it was +confidently hoped and expected by the republicans +that enough malcontents would be found among +the citizens of Paris to get up a very satisfactory +<i>émeute</i> on the occasion. But never was hope +more abortive: not the slightest public sensation +appears to have been excited by this removal; and +I am assured that the whole republican party are +so bitterly disappointed at this, that the most sanguine +among them have ceased for the present to +anticipate the triumph of their cause. I suspect, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span> +therefore, that it will be some time before we shall +receive another visit from our riot-loving friend.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile preparations are going on in a very +orderly and judicious style at the Luxembourg. +The trial-chamber and all things connected with +it are completed; tents have been pitched in the +gardens for the accommodation of the soldiers, +and guards stationed in such a manner in all +directions as to ensure a reasonable chance of +tranquillity to the peaceable.</p> + +<p>We have attended a review of very fine troops +in the Place du Carrousel, composed of National +Guards, troops of the line, and that most superb-looking +body of municipal troops called <i>La Garde +de Paris</i>. These latter, it seems, have performed +in Paris since the revolution of 1830 the duties +of that portion of the police formerly called <i>gendarmerie</i>; +but the name having fallen into disrepute +in the capital—(<i>les jeunes gens</i>, <i>par exemple</i>, +could not bear it)—the title of <i>Garde de +Paris</i> has been accorded to them instead, and it +is now only in the provinces that <i>gendarmes</i> are to +be found. But let them be called by what name +they may, I never saw any corps of more superb +appearance. Men and horses, accoutrements and +discipline, all seem perfect. It is amusing to observe +how slight a thread will sometimes suffice +to lead captive the most unruly spirits.</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"What is there in a name?"</p> + +<p>Yet I have heard it asserted with triumphant +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span> +crowings by some of the revolutionary set, that, +thanks to their valour! the odious system was +completely changed—that <i>gendarmes</i> and <i>mouchards</i> +no longer existed in Paris—that citizens +would never again be tormented by their hateful +<i>surveillance</i>—and, in short, that Frenchmen were +redeemed from thraldom now and for evermore; +so now they have <i>La Garde de Paris</i>, just to take +care of them: and if ever a set of men were +capable of performing effectually the duties committed +to their charge, I think it must be this +well-drilled stalworth corps.</p> + +<p>The appearance of a large body of the National +Guard too, when brought together, as at a review, +in full military style, is very imposing. The eye +at once sees that they are not ordinary troops. +All the appointments are in excellent order; and +the very material of which their uniform is made, +being so much less common than usual, helps to +produce this effect. Not to mention that the +uniform itself, of dark blue, with the delicately +white pantaloons, is peculiarly handsome on parade; +much more so, I think, though perhaps +less calculated for a battle-field, than the red +lower garments by which the troops of the French +line are at present distinguished.</p> + +<p>The king looks well on horseback—so do his +sons. The whole staff, indeed, was gay and gallant-looking, +and in style as decidedly aristocratic +as any prince need desire. Shouts of "<i>Vive le Roi!</i>" +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span> +ran cheerily and lustily along the lines; +and if these may be trusted as indications of the +feelings of the soldiery towards King Philippe, he +may, I think, feel quite indifferent as to whatever +other vows may be uttered concerning him +in the distance.</p> + +<p>But in this city of contradictions one can never +sit down safely to ruminate upon any one inference +or conclusion whatever; for five minutes +afterwards you are assured by somebody or other +that you are quite wrong, utterly mistaken, and +that the exact contrary of what you suppose is +the real fact. Thus, on mentioning in the evening +the cordial reception given by the soldiers to +the king in the morning, I received for answer—"Je +le crois bien, madame; les officiers leur +commandent de le faire."</p> + +<p>We remained a good while on the ground, and +saw as much as the confinement of a carriage +would permit. Like all reviews of well-dressed, +well-appointed troops, it was a gay and pretty +spectacle; and notwithstanding the caustic reprimand +for my faith in empty sounds which I have +just repeated to you, I am still of opinion that +King Philippe had every reason to be contented +with his troops, and with the manner in which he +was received by them.</p> + +<p>Every hour that one remains at Paris increases, +I think, one's conviction of the enormous power +and importance of the National Guard. Our volunteer +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span> +corps, in the season of threatenings and +danger, gave us unquestionably an immense accession +of strength; and had the threatener dared to +come, neither his legions nor his eagles, his veterans +nor his victories, would have saved him from +utter destruction. He knew this, and he came +not: he knew that the little island was bristling +from her centre to her shore with arms raised to +strike, by the impulse of the heart and soul, and +not by conscription; he knew this, and wisely +came not.</p> + +<p>Our volunteers were armed men—armed in a +cause that warmed their blood; and it is sufficient +to establish their importance, that History must +record the simple fact, that Napoleon looked at +them and turned away. But, great as was the +power of this critical show of volunteer strength +among us, as a permanent force it was trifling +when compared to the present National Guard of +France. Not only are their numbers greater—Paris +alone has eighty thousand of them,—but their discipline +is perfect, and their practical habits of being +on duty keep them in such daily activity, that a +tocsin sounded within their hearing would suffice +to turn out within an hour nearly the whole of +this force, not only completely armed, equipped, +and in all respects fit for service—not only each +one with his quarters and rations provided, but +each one knowing and feeling the importance of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span> +the duty he is upon as intimately as the general +himself; and each one, in addition to all other +feelings and motives which make armed men +strong, warmed with the consciousness that it is +his own stronghold, his own property, his own +castle, as well as his own life, that he is defending.</p> + +<p>This force will save France from devouring her +own vitals, if anything can do it.</p> + +<p>Among all the novelties produced by the ever-growing +experience of men, and of which so many +have ripened in these latter days, I doubt if any +can be named more rationally calculated to fulfil +the purpose for which it is intended than this +organization of a force formed of the industrious +and the orderly part of a community to keep in +check the idle and disorderly,—and that, without +taxing the state, compromising their professional +usefulness, or sacrificing their personal independence, +more than every man in his senses +would be willing to do for the purpose of keeping +watch and ward over all that he loves and values +on earth.</p> + +<p>The more the power of such a force as this +increases, the farther must the country where it +exists be from all danger of revolution. Such +men are, and must be, conservatives in the strongest +sense of the word; and though it may certainly +be possible for some who may be rebel to the +cause of order to get enrolled among them, the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span> +danger of the enterprise will unquestionably prevent +its frequent recurrence. The wolf might as +safely mount guard in the midst of armed shepherds +and their dogs, as demagogues and agitators +place themselves in the ranks of the National +Guard of Paris.</p> + +<div class="figcenter p6" style="width: 409px;"><a name="illo3" id="illo3"></a> +<img src="images/ill163.jpg" width="409" height="600" alt="Pro Patria!" /> +<p class="s05">Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu.</p> +<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Pro Patria!</span></p> +<p class="caption s05">London, Published by Richard Bentley. 1835.</p> +</div> + +<h2>LETTER XVIII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +First Day of the Trials.—Much blustering, but no riot.—All +alarm subsided.—Proposal for inviting Lord B——m to +plead at the Trial.—Society.—Charm of idle conversation.—The +Whisperer of good stories.</p> + +<p class="ltrhead"> +6th May 1835.</p> + +<p>The monster is hatched at last! The trials +began yesterday, and we are all rejoicing exceedingly +at having found ourselves alive in our beds +this morning. What will betide us and it, as its +scales or its plumes push forth and gather strength +from day to day, I know not; but "sufficient for +the day is the evil thereof;" and I do assure you +in very sober earnest, that when Galignani's paper +arrived this morning, the party round the +breakfast-table was greatly comforted by finding +that nothing more alarming than a few republican +demands on the part of the prisoners, and +a few monarchical refusals on the part of the +court, took place.</p> + +<p>This interchange of hostilities commenced by +some of the accused refusing to answer when +their names were called;—then followed a demand +for free admission to the chamber, during +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span> +the trials, for the mothers, wives, and all other +females belonging to the respective families of +the prisoners;—and next, a somewhat blustering +demand for counsel of their own choosing; +the body of legal advocates, who, by general rule +and common usage, are always charged with the +defence of prisoners, not containing, as it should +seem, orators sufficiently of their own <i>clique</i> to +content them.</p> + +<p>This was of course stoutly refused by the court, +after retiring, however, for a couple of hours to +deliberate upon it—a ceremony I should hardly +have supposed necessary. The company of the +ladies, too, was declined; and as, upon a moderate +computation, their numerical force could not have +amounted to less than five hundred, this want of +gallantry in the Peers of France must be forgiven +in favour of their discretion.</p> + +<p>The gentleman, however, who was appointed, +as he said, by the rest, to request the pleasure of +their society, declared loudly that the demand +for it should be daily renewed. This reminds one +of the story of the man who punished his wife for +infidelity by making her sit to hear the story of +her misdeeds rehearsed every day of her life, and +pretty plainly indicates that it is the plan of the +accused to torment their judges as much as they +conveniently can.</p> + +<p>One of the prisoners named the celebrated Abbé +de Lamennais, author of "Les Paroles d'un Croyant," +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span> +as his advocate. The <i>procureur-général</i> remarked, +that it was for the interest of the defence +that the rule for permitting lawyers only to plead +should be adhered to.</p> + +<p>Next came a demand from one of the accused, +in the name of all the rest, that permission for +free and unrestrained intercourse between the prisoners +of Lyons, Paris, and Marseilles should be +allowed. This was answered only by the announcement +that "the court was adjourned;" an +intimation which produced an awful clamour; and +as the peers quitted the court, they were assailed +with vehement cries of "We protest! ... we protest!... +We will make no defence!... We protest! +... we protest!" And so ended the business +of the day.</p> + +<p>I believe that the government, and all those +who are sufficiently connected with it to know +anything of the real state of the case, were +perfectly aware that no public movement was +likely to take place at this stage of the business. +Every one seems to know that the restless spirits, +the desperate adventurers engaged in the +extensive plot now under investigation, consider +their trial as the best occasion possible for a +political <i>coup de théâtre</i>, and that nothing would +have disturbed their performance more than a riot +before the curtain rose.</p> + +<p>Everything like panic seems now to have subsided, +even among those who are farthest from +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span> +the centre of action; and all the effects of this +mighty affair apparently visible at present are to +be seen on the faces of the republicans, who, according +to their wont, strut about wherever they +are most likely to be looked at, and take care that +each one of their countenances shall be</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"Like to a book where men may read strange matters."</p> + +<p>I thank Heaven, nevertheless, that this first day +is so well over. I had heard so over-much about +it, that it became a sort of nightmare to me, +from which I now feel happily relieved. It is quite +clear, that if the out-of-door agitators should think +proper to make any attempts to produce disturbance, +the government feels quite equal to the task +of making them quiet again, and of insuring that +peaceable security to the country for which she +has so long languished in vain.</p> + +<p>The military force employed at the Luxembourg +is, however, by no means large. One battalion of +the first legion of National Guards was in the court +of the palace, and about four hundred troops of +the line occupied the garden. But though no +show of force is unnecessarily displayed, every one +has the comfort of knowing that there is enough +within reach should any necessity arise for employing +it.</p> + +<p>I was told the other day, that when Lord +B——m was in Paris, he was so kind as to visit +M. Armand Carrel in prison; and that, on the +strength of this proof of sympathy and affection, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span> +it has been suggested to the prisoners at the +Luxembourg, that they should despatch a deputation +of their friends to wait upon his lordship, +requesting the aid of his eloquence in pleading +their cause against the tyrants who so unjustifiably +hold them in durance.</p> + +<p>The proposal, it seems, was very generally approved; +but nevertheless, it was at last negatived +on the representation of a person who had once +heard his lordship argue in the French language. +This is the more to be regretted by the friends of +these suffering victims, since their choice of defenders +is to be restricted to members of the bar: +and this restriction, narrow-minded and severe +as it is, would not exclude his lordship; a legal +advocate being beyond all question a legal advocate +all the world over.</p> + +<p>It was not till we had sent out in one or two +directions to ascertain if all things were quiet, +that we ventured to keep an engagement which +we had made for last night to pass the <i>soirée</i> at +Madame de L*****'s. I should have been sorry +to have lost it; for the business of the morning +appeared to have awakened the spirits and +set everybody talking. There are few things I +like better than listening to a full, free flow of +Paris talk; particularly when, as in this instance, +the party is small and in a lively mood.</p> + +<p>It appears as if there were nothing like caution +or reserve here in any direction. Among those +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span> +whom I have had the satisfaction of occasionally +meeting are some who figure amongst the most +important personages of the day; but their conversation +is as gaily unrestrained as if they had +nothing to do but to amuse themselves. These, +indeed, are not likely to commit themselves; but +I have known others less secure, who have appeared +to permit every thought that occurred to +them to meet the ear of whoever chose to listen. +In short, whatever restraint the police, which +by its nature is very phœnix-like, may endeavour +to put upon the periodical press, its influence +certainly does not as yet reach the lips, which +open with equal freedom for the expression of +faith, scepticism, loyalty, treason, philosophy, and +wit.</p> + +<p>In an intercourse so transient as mine is likely +to be with most of the acquaintance I have formed +here,—an intercourse consisting chiefly, as to the +manner of it, of evening visits through a series of +<i>salons</i>,—amusement is naturally more sought than +information: and were it otherwise, I should, with +some few exceptions, have reaped disappointment +instead of pleasure; for it is evident that the same +feeling which leads the majority of persons you +meet in society here, to speak freely, prevents +them from saying anything seriously. So that, +after talking for an hour or two upon subjects +which one should think very gravely important, a +light word, a light laugh, ends the colloquy, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span> +very often leaves me in doubt as to the real sentiments +of those to whom I have been listening.</p> + +<p>But if not always successful in obtaining information, +I never fail in finding amusement. +Rarely, even for a moment, does conversation languish; +and a string of lively nothings, or a startling +succession of seemingly bold, but really unmeaning +speculations, often make me imagine that a vast +deal of talent has been displayed; yet, when memory +sets to work upon it, little remains worth +recording. Nevertheless, there is talent, and of a +very charming kind too, in this manner of uttering +trifles so that they may be mistaken for wit.</p> + +<p>I know some few in our own dear land who +have also this happy gift; and, as a matter of grace +and mere exterior endowment, I question if it be +not fairly worth all the rest. But I believe we +have it in about the same proportion that we have +good actors of genteel comedy, compared to the +number which they can boast of the same class +here. With us this easy, natural style of mimicking +real life is a rare talent, though sometimes +possessed in great perfection; but with them it +seems more or less the birthright of all.</p> + +<p>So is it with the gift of that bright colloquial +faculty which bestows such indescribable grace +upon the airy nothings uttered in French drawing-rooms. +To listen to it, is very like quaffing the +sparkling, frothy beverage native to their sunny +hills;—French talk is very like champagne. The +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span> +exhilaration it produces is instantaneous: the spirits +mount, and something like wit is often struck +out even from dull natures by merely coming in +contact with what is so brilliant.</p> + +<p>I could almost venture to assert that the effect +of this delightful inspiration might be perceived by +any one who had gained admission to French society +even if they did not understand the language. +Let an observing eye, well accustomed to read the +expression so legibly, though so transiently written +in the countenances of persons in conversation,—let +such a one only see, if he cannot hear, the effect +produced by the hits and flashes of French eloquence. +Allow me another simile, and I will tell +you that it is like applying electricity to a bunch +of feathers tied together and attached to the conductor +by a thread: first one, then another starts, +flies off, mounts, and drops again, as the bright +spark passes lightly, gracefully, capriciously, yet +still all making part of one circle.</p> + +<p>Of course, I am not speaking now of large +parties; these, as I think I have said before, are +wonderfully alike in all lands, and nothing approaching +to conversation can possibly take place +at any of them. It is only where the circle is +restricted to a few that this sort of effect can be +produced; and then, the impulse once given by +a piquant word, seemingly uttered at random, +every one present receives a share of it, and contributes +in return all the lively thoughts to which +it has given birth. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span></p> + +<p>But there was one gentleman of our party +yesterday evening who had a most provoking +trick of attracting one's attention as if on purpose +to disappoint it. He was not quite like +Molière's Timante, of whom Célimène says,</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"Et, jusques au bonjour, il dit tout à l'oreille;"</p> + +<p>but in the midst of pleasant talk, in which all +were interested, he said aloud—</p> + +<p>"<i>Par exemple!</i> I heard the very best thing +possible to-day about the King. Will you hear +it, Madame B...?"</p> + +<p>This question being addressed to a decided doctrinaire, +the answer was of course a reproachful +shake of the head; but as it was accompanied +by half a smile, and as the lady bent her fair neck +towards the speaker, she, and she only, was made +acquainted with "the best of all possible things," +conveyed in a whisper.</p> + +<p>At another time he addressed himself to the +lady of the house; but as he spoke across the +circle, he not only fixed her attention, but that of +every one else.</p> + +<p>"Madame!" said he coaxingly, "will you let +me tell you a little word of treason?"</p> + +<p>"Comment?—de la trahison?... Apropos de +quoi, s'il vous plaît?... Mais c'est égal—contez +toujours."</p> + +<p>On receiving this answer, the whisperer of good +stories got up from the depth of his arm-chair—an +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span> +enterprise of some difficulty, for he was neither +rapid nor light in his movements,—and deliberately +walking round the chairs of all the party, he +placed himself behind Madame de L*****, and +whispered in her ear what made her colour and +shake her head again; but she laughed too, telling +him that she hated timid politics, and had no +taste for any <i>trahisons</i> which were not "<i>hautement +prononcées</i>."</p> + +<p>This hint sent him back to his place; but it +was taken very good-humouredly, for, instead of +whispering any more, he uttered aloud sundry +odds and ends of gossip, but all so well dressed +up in lively wording, that they sounded very like +good stories.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XIX.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Victor Hugo.—Racine.</p> + +<p>I have again been listening to some curious +details respecting the present state of literature +in France. I think I have before stated to you, +that I have uniformly heard the whole of the +<i>décousu</i> school of authors spoken of with unmitigated +contempt,—and that not only by the venerable +advocates for the <i>bon vieux temps</i>, but +also, and equally, by the distinguished men of +the present day—distinguished both by position +and ability.</p> + +<p>Respecting Victor Hugo, the only one of the +tribe to which I allude who has been sufficiently +read in England to justify his being classed by +us as a person of general celebrity, the feeling +is more remarkable still. I have never mentioned +him or his works to any person of good moral +feeling and cultivated mind, who did not appear +to shrink from according him even the degree of +reputation that those who are received as authority +among our own critics have been disposed to +allow him. I might say, that of him France +seems to be ashamed. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span></p> + +<p>Again and again it has happened to me, when +I have asked the opinions of individuals as to the +merit of his different plays, that I have been +answered thus:—</p> + +<p>"I assure you I know nothing about it: I +never saw it played."</p> + +<p>"Have you read it?"</p> + +<p>"No; I have not. I cannot read the works of +Victor Hugo."</p> + +<p>One gentleman, who has heard me more than +once persist in my inquiries respecting the reputation +enjoyed by Victor Hugo at Paris as a man +of genius and a successful dramatic writer, told +me, that he saw that, in common with the generality +of foreigners, particularly the English, I +looked upon Victor Hugo and his productions as +a sort of type or specimen of the literature of +France at the present hour. "But permit me +to assure you," he added gravely and earnestly, +"that no idea was ever more entirely and altogether +erroneous. He is the head of a sect—the +high-priest of a congregation who have abolished +every law, moral and intellectual, by which the +efforts of the human mind have hitherto been +regulated. He has attained this pre-eminence, +and I trust that no other will arise to dispute it +with him. But Victor Hugo is <span class="smcap">not</span> a popular +French writer."</p> + +<p>Such a judgment as this, or the like of it, I have +heard passed upon him and his works nine times +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span> +out of ten that I have mentioned him; and I +consider this as a proof of right feeling and sound +taste, which is extremely honourable, and certainly +more than we have lately given our neighbours +credit for. It pleased me the more perhaps +because I did not expect it. There is so much +meretricious glitter in the works of Victor Hugo,—nay, +so much real brightness now and then,—that +I expected to find at least the younger and +less reflective part of the population warm in their +admiration of him.</p> + +<p>His clinging fondness for scenes of vice and +horror, and his utter contempt for all that time +has stamped as good in taste or feeling, might, +I thought, arise from the unsettled spirit of the +times; and if so, he could not fail of receiving the +meed of sympathy and praise from those who had +themselves set that spirit at work.</p> + +<p>But it is not so. The wild vigour of some of +his descriptions is acknowledged; but that is all +of praise that I ever heard bestowed upon Victor +Hugo's theatrical productions in his native land.</p> + +<p>The startling, bold, and stirring incidents of his +disgusting dramas must and will excite a certain +degree of attention when seen for the first time, +and it is evidently the interest of managers to +bring forward whatever is most likely to produce +this effect; but the doing so cannot be quoted +as a proof of the systematic degradation of the +theatre. It is moreover a fact, which the play-bills +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span> +themselves are alone sufficient to attest, that +after Victor Hugo's plays have had their first run, +they are never brought forward again: not one of +them has yet become what we call a stock-play.</p> + +<p>This fact, which was first stated to me by a +person perfectly <i>au fait</i> of the subject, has been +subsequently confirmed by many others; and it +speaks more plainly than any recorded criticism +could do, what the public judgment of these pieces +really is.</p> + +<p>The romance of "Notre Dame de Paris" is +ever cited as Victor Hugo's best work, excepting +some early lyrical pieces of which we know nothing. +But even this, though there are passages +of extraordinary descriptive power in it, is always +alluded to with much more of contempt +than admiration; and I have heard it ridiculed +in circles, whose praise was fame, with a light +pleasantry more likely to prove an antidote to its +mischief than all the reprobation that sober criticism +could pour out upon it.</p> + +<p>But may not this champion of vice—this chronicler +of sin, shame, and misery—quote Scripture +and say, "A prophet is not without honour, save +in his own country"? For I have seen a criticism +in an English paper (The Examiner) which +says, "<i>The</i> Notre Dame <i>of Victor Hugo must +take rank with the best romances by the author of</i> +Waverley.... <i>It transcends them in vigour, animation, +and familiarity with the age.</i>" +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span></p> + +<p>In reply to the last point here mentioned, in +which our countryman has given the superiority to +Victor Hugo over Sir Walter Scott, a very strong +testimony against its correctness has reached me +since I have been in Paris. An able lawyer, and +most accomplished gentleman and scholar, who +holds a distinguished station in the Cour Royale, +took us to see the Palais de Justice. Having +shown us the chamber where criminal trials are +carried on, he observed, that this was the room described +by Victor Hugo in his romance; adding,—"He +was, however, mistaken here, as in most +places <i>where he affects a knowledge of the times of +which he writes</i>. In the reign of Louis the Eleventh, +no criminal trials ever took place within +the walls of this building; and all the ceremonies +as described by him resemble much more a trial +of yesterday than of the age at which he dates +his tale."</p> + +<p>The vulgar old adage, that "there is no accounting +for taste," must, I suppose, teach us to +submit patiently to the hearing of any judgments +and opinions which it is the will and pleasure +of man to pronounce; but it does seem strange +that any can be found who, after bringing Sir +Walter Scott and Victor Hugo into comparison, +should give the palm of superiority to the author +of "Notre Dame de Paris."</p> + +<p>Were the faults of this school of authors only +of a literary kind, few persons, I believe, would +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span> +take the trouble to criticise them, and their nonsense +would die a natural death as soon as it +was made to encounter the light of day: but such +productions as Victor Hugo's are calculated to +do great injury to human nature. They would +teach us to believe that all our gentlest and best +affections can only lead to crime and infamy. +There is not, I truly believe, a single pure, innocent, +and holy thought to be found throughout +his writings: Sin is the muse he invokes—he +would</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="i4">"Take off the rose</p> +<p>From the fair forehead of an innocent love,</p> +<p>And set a blister there;"</p> +</div> + +<p>Horror is his handmaid; and "thousands of liveried +<i>monsters</i> lackey him," to furnish the portraits +with which it is the occupation of his life to disgust +the world.</p> + +<p>Can there, think you, be a stronger proof of +a diseased intellect among the <i>décousu</i> part of the +world, than that they not only admire this man's +hideous extravagances, but that they actually believe +him to be ... at least they say so ... a second +Shakspeare!... A Shakspeare!</p> + +<p>To chastise as he deserves an author who +may be said to defy mankind by the libels he +has put forth on the whole race, requires a stouter +and a keener weapon than any a woman can +wield; but when they prate of Shakspeare, I feel +that it is our turn to speak. How much of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span> +gratitude and love does every woman owe to +him! He, who has entered deeper into her heart +than ever mortal did before or since his day, how +has he painted her?—As Portia, Juliet, Constance, +Hermione;—as Cordelia, Volumnia, Isabella, +Desdemona, Imogene!</p> + +<p>Then turn and see for what we have to thank +our modern painter. Who are his heroines?—Lucrèce +Borgia, Marion de Lorme, Blanche, Maguelonne, +with I know not how many more of +the same stamp; besides his novel heroine, whom +Mr. Henry Lytton Bulwer calls "the most delicate +female ever drawn by the pen of romance"—The +Esmeralda! ... whose sole accomplishments +are dancing and singing in the streets, and who ... +delicate creature! ... being caught up by a horseman +in a midnight brawl, throws her arms round +his neck, swears he is very handsome, and thenceforward +shows the delicate tenderness of her nature, +by pertinaciously doting upon him, without +any other return or encouragement whatever than +an insulting caress bestowed upon her one night +when he was drunk ... "delicate female!"</p> + +<p>But this is all too bad to dwell upon. It is, +however, in my estimation a positive duty, when +mentioning the works of Victor Hugo, to record +a protest against their tone and tendency; and +it is also a duty to correct, as far as one can, +the erroneous impression existing in England respecting +his reputation in France. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span></p> + +<p>Whenever his name is mentioned in England, +his success is cited as a proof of the depraved state, +moral and intellectual, of the French people. And +such it would be, were his success and reputation +such as his partisans represent them to be. But, in +point of fact, the manner in which he is judged +by his own countrymen is the strongest possible +evidence that neither a powerful fancy, a commanding +diction, nor an imagination teeming with +images of intense passion, can suffice to ensure +an author any exalted reputation in France at +the present day if he outrages good feeling and +good taste.</p> + +<p>Should any doubt the correctness of this statement, +I can only refer them to the source from +whence I derived the information on which it is +founded,—I can only refer them to France herself. +There is one fact, however, which may be ascertained +without crossing the Channel;—namely, +that when one of their reviews found occasion to +introduce an article upon the modern drama, the +editors acquitted themselves of the task by translating +the whole of the able article upon that subject +which appeared about a year and a half ago +in the Quarterly, acknowledging to what source +they were indebted for it.</p> + +<p>Were the name and the labours of Victor Hugo +confined to his own country, it would now be high +time that I should release you from him; but +it is an English critic who has said, that he has +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span> +heaved the ground from under the feet of Racine; +and you must indulge me for a few minutes, +while I endeavour to bring the two parties +together before you. In doing this, I will be +generous; for I will introduce M. Hugo in "Le +Roi s'amuse," which, from the circumstance (the +happiest, I was assured, that ever befel the author) +of its being withdrawn by authority from the +Théâtre Français, has become infinitely more celebrated +than any other he has written.</p> + +<p>It may be remarked by the way, that a few +more such acts of decent watchfulness over the +morals and manners of the people may redeem +the country from the stigma it now bears of +being the most licentious in its theatre and its +press in the world.</p> + +<p>The first glorious moment of being forbidden +at the Français appears almost to have turned the +lucky author's brain. His preface to "Le Roi +s'amuse," among many other symptoms of insanity +has the following:—</p> + +<p>"Le premier mouvement de l'auteur fut de +douter.... L'acte était arbitraire au point d'être +incroyable.... L'auteur ne pouvait croire à tant +d'insolence et de folie.... Le ministre avait en +effet, de son droit divin de ministre, intimé +l'ordre.... Le ministre lui avait pris sa pièce, lui +avait pris son droit, lui avait pris sa chose. Il ne +restait plus qu'à le mettre, lui poëte, à la Bastille.... +Est-ce qu'il y a eu en effet quelque chose +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span> +qu'on a appelé la révolution de Juillet?... Que peut +être le motif d'une pareille mesure?... Il parait +que nos faiseurs de censure se prétendent scandalisés +dans leur morale par 'Le Roi s'amuse;' le +nom seul du poëte inculpé aurait dû être une suffisante +réfutation (!!!)... Cette pièce a révolté la +pudeur des gendarmes; la brigade Léotaud y +était, et l'a trouvé obscène; le bureau des mœurs +s'est voilé la face; M. Vidocq a rougi.... Holà, +mes maîtres! Silence sur ce point!... Depuis +quand n'est-il plus permis à un roi de courtiser +sur la scène une servante d'auberge?... Mener +un roi dans un mauvais lieu, cela ne serait pas +même nouveau non plus.... L'auteur veut l'art +chaste, et non l'art prude.... Il est profondement +triste de voir comment se termine la révolution de +Juillet...."</p> + +<p>Then follows a <i>précis</i> of the extravagant and +hateful plot, in which the heroine is, as usual, "une +fille séduite et perdue;" and he sums it up thus +pompously:—"Au fond d'un des ouvrages de +l'auteur il y a la fatalité—au fond de celui-ci il y a +la providence."</p> + +<p>I wish much that some one would collect and +publish in a separate volume all M. Victor Hugo's +prefaces; I would purchase it instantly, and it +would be a fund of almost inexhaustible amusement. +He assumes a tone in them which, all +things considered, is perhaps unequalled in the +history of literature. In another part of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span> +one from which I have given the above extracts, +he says—</p> + +<p>"Vraiment, le pouvoir qui s'attaque à nous +n'aura pas gagné grand' chose à ce que nous, +hommes d'art, nous quittions notre tâche consciencieuse, +tranquille, sincère, profonde; notre tâche +sainte...." What on earth, if it be not insanity, +could have put it into Mr. Hugo's head that the +manufacturing of his obscene dramas was "une +tâche sainte"?</p> + +<p>The principal characters in "Le Roi s'amuse" are +François Premier; Triboulet, his pander and buffoon; +Blanche, the daughter of Triboulet, "la fille +séduite," and heroine of the piece; and Maguelonne, +another Esmeralda.</p> + +<p>The interest lies in the contrast between Triboulet +pander and Triboulet père. He is himself +the most corrupt and infamous of men; and because +he is humpbacked, makes it both his pastime and +his business to lead the king his master into every +species of debauchery: but he shuts up his daughter +to preserve her purity; and the poet has put +forth all his strength in describing the worship +which Triboulet père pays to the virtue which he +passes his life as Triboulet pander in destroying.</p> + +<p>Of course, the king falls in love with Blanche, +and she with him; and Triboulet pander is made +to assist in carrying her off in the dark, under the +belief that she was the wife of a nobleman to +whom also his majesty the king was making love. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span></p> + +<p>When Triboulet père and pander finds out what +he has done, he falls into a terrible agony: and +here again is a <i>tour de force</i>, to show how pathetically +such a father can address such a daughter.</p> + +<p>He resolves to murder the king, and informs his +daughter, who is passionately attached to her royal +seducer, of his intention. She objects, but is at +length brought to consent by being made to peep +through a hole in the wall, and seeing his majesty +King Francis engaged in making love to Maguelonne.</p> + +<p>This part of the plot is brought out shortly and +pithily.</p> +<div class="drama"> +<p class="p2 center"> +BLANCHE (<i>peeping through the hole in the wall</i>).</p> + +<p>Et cette femme! ... est-elle affrontée! ... oh!...</p> + +<p class="p2 center">TRIBOULET.</p> + +<p class="right">Tais-toi;</p> +<p>Pas de pleurs. Laisse-moi te venger!</p> + +<p class="center p2">BLANCHE.</p> + +<p class="right">Hélas!—Faites—</p> +<p>Tout ce que vous voudrez.</p> + +<p class="center p2">TRIBOULET.</p> + +<p class="center">Merci!</p> +</div> + +<p>This <i>merci</i>, observe, is not said ironically, but +gravely and gratefully. Having arranged this +part of the business, he gives his daughter instructions +as to what she is to do with herself, in the +following sublime verses:—</p> + +<div class="drama"> +<p class="center p2">TRIBOULET.</p> + +<p>Écoute. Va chez moi, prends-y des habits d'homme,<br /> +Un cheval, de l'argent, n'importe quelle somme;<br /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span> +Et pars, sans t'arrêter un instant en chemin,<br /> +Pour Evreux, où j'irai te joindre après-demain.<br /> +—Tu sais ce coffre auprès du portrait de ta mère;<br /> +L'habit est là,—je l'ai d'avance exprès fait faire.</p> +</div> +<p>Having dismissed his daughter, he settles with +a gipsy-man named Saltabadil, who is the brother +of Maguelonne, all the details of the murder, which +is to be performed in their house, a small cabaret +at which the foul weather and the fair Maguelonne +induce the royal rake to pass the night. Triboulet +leaves them an old sack in which they are to pack +up the body, and promises to return at midnight, +that he may himself see it thrown into the Seine.</p> + +<p>Blanche meanwhile departs; but feeling some +compunctious visitings about the proposed murder +of her lover, returns, and again applying her ear +to the hole in the wall, finds that his majesty is +gone to bed in the garret, and that the brother +and sister are consulting about his death. Maguelonne, +a very "delicate female," objects too; she +admires his beauty, and proposes that his life shall +be spared if any stranger happens to arrive whose +body may serve to fill the sack. Blanche, in a fit +of heroic tenderness, determines to be that stranger; +exclaiming,</p> +<div class="drama"> +<p class="center"> +"Eh bien! ... mourons pour lui!"</p> +</div> +<p>But before she knocks at the door, she kneels down +to say her prayers, particularly for forgiveness to +all her enemies. Here are the verses, making +part of those which have overthrown Racine:— +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span></p> + +<div class="drama"> +<p class="center p2">BLANCHE.</p> + +<p><span class="i10">Oh! Dieu, vers qui je vais,</span><br /> +Je pardonne à tous ceux qui m'ont été mauvais:<br /> +Mon père et vous, mon Dieu! pardonnez-leurs de même<br /> +Au roi François Premier, que je plains et que j'aime.</p> +</div> + +<p>She knocks, the door opens, she is stabbed and +consigned to the sack. Her father arrives immediately +after as by appointment, receives the +sack, and prepares to drag it towards the river, +handling it with revengeful ecstasy, and exclaiming—</p> + +<div class="drama"> +<p><span class="i10">Maintenant, monde, regarde-moi:</span><br /> +Ceci, c'est un bouffon; et ceci, c'est un roi.</p> +</div> + +<p>At this triumphant moment he hears the voice +of the king, singing as he walks away from the +dwelling of Maguelonne.</p> + +<div class="drama"> +<p class="center p2">TRIBOULET.</p> + +<p>Mais qui donc m'a-t-il mis à sa place, le traître!</p> +</div> +<p>He cuts open the sack; and a flash of lightning +very melodramatically enables him to recognise +his daughter, who revives, to die in his arms.</p> + +<p>This is beyond doubt what may be called "a +tragic situation;" and I confess it does seem very +hard-hearted to laugh at it: but the <i>pas</i> that +divides the sublime from the ridiculous is not +distinctly seen, and there is something vulgar and +ludicrous, both in the position and language of +the parties, which quite destroys the pathetic +effect. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span></p> + +<p>It must be remembered that she is dressed in +the "habit d'homme" of which her father says +so poetically—</p> + +<div class="drama"> +<p> +Je l'ai d'avance exprès fait faire.</p> +</div> + +<p>Observe, too, that she is still in the sack; the +stage directions being, "Le bas du corps, qui est +resté vêtu, est caché dans le sac."</p> + +<div class="drama"> +<p class="center p2">BLANCHE.</p> + +<p class="center">Où suis-je?</p> + +<p class="center p2">TRIBOULET.</p> + +<p>Blanche! que t'a-t-on fait? Quel mystère infernal!<br /> +Je crains en te touchant de te faire du mal<br /> +...Ah! la cloche du bac est là sur la muraille:<br /> +Ma pauvre enfant, peux-tu m'attendre un peu, que j'aille<br /> +Chercher de l'eau....</p> +</div> + +<p>A surgeon arrives, and having examined her +wound, says,</p> +<div class="drama"> +<p><span class="i10">Elle est morte.</span><br /> +Elle a dans le flanc gauche une plaie assez forte:<br /> +Le sang a dû causer la mort en l'étouffant.</p> + +<p class="center p2">TRIBOULET.</p> + +<p>J'ai tué mon enfant! J'ai tué mon enfant!</p> +<p class="right">(<i>Il tombe sur le pavé.</i>)</p> +</div> +<p class="center">FIN.</p> + +<p>All this is very shocking; but it is not tragedy,—and +it is not poetry. Yet it is what +we are told has heaved the earth from under +Racine!</p> + +<p>After such a sentence as this, it must be, I +know, <i>rococo</i> to name him; but yet I would say, +in his own words, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span></p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p>D'adorateurs zélés à peine un petit nombre</p> +<p>Ose des premiers temps nous retracer quelque ombre;</p> +<p>Le reste....</p> +<p>Se fait initier à ces honteux mystères,</p> +<p>Et blasphème le nom qu'ont invoqué leurs pères.</p> +</div> + +<p>As I profess myself of the <i>petit nombre</i>, you +must let me recall to your memory some of the +fragments of that noble edifice which Racine +raised over him, and which, as they say, has now +perished under the mighty power of Victor Hugo. +It will not be lost time to do this; for look where +you will among the splendid material of this uprooted +temple, and you will find no morsel that is +not precious; nothing that is not designed, chiseled, +and finished by the hand of a master.</p> + +<p>Racine has not produced dramas from ordinary +life; it was not his object to do so, nor is it the +end he has attained. It is the tragedy of heroes +and demi-gods that he has given us, and not of +cut-purses, buffoons, and street-walkers.</p> + +<p>If the language of Racine be poetry, that of +M. Hugo is not; and wherever the one is admired, +the other must of necessity be valueless. +It would be endless to attempt giving citations +to prove the grace, the dignity, the majestic flow +of Racine's verse; but let your eye run over +"Iphigénie," for instance,—there also the loss of a +daughter forms the tragic interest,—and compare +such verses as those I have quoted above with +any that you can find in Racine. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span></p> + +<p>Hear the royal mother, for example, describe +the scene that awaits her:</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p>Un prêtre environné d'une foule cruelle</p> +<p>Portera sur ma fille une main criminelle,</p> +<p>Déchirera son sein, et d'un œil curieux</p> +<p>Dans son cœur palpitant consultera les dieux;</p> +<p>—Et moi—qui l'amenai triomphante, adorée,</p> +<p>Je m'en retournerai, seule, et désespérée.</p> +</div> + +<p>Surely this is of a better fabric than—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p>Tu sais ce coffre auprès du portrait de ta mère;</p> +<p>L'habit est là,—je l'ai d'avance exprès fait faire.</p> +</div> + +<p>I have little doubt but that the inspired author, +when this noble phrase, "exprès fait faire," suggested +itself, felt ready to exclaim, in the words of +Philaminte and Bélise—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p>Ah! que cet "exprès fait" est d'un goût admirable!</p> +<p>C'est à mon sentiment un endroit impayable;</p> +<p>J'entends là-dessous un million de mots.—</p> +<p>—Il est vrai qu'il dit plus de choses qu'il n'est gros.</p> +</div> + +<p>But to take the matter seriously, let us examine +a little the ground upon which this school +of dramatic writers found their claim to superiority +over their classic predecessors. Is it not +that they declare themselves to be more true to +nature? And how do they support this claim? +Were you to read through every play that M. +Hugo has written—(and may you long be preserved +from so great annoyance!)—I doubt if you +would find a single personage with whom you +could sympathise, or a single sentiment or opinion +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span> +that you would feel true to the nature +within you.</p> + +<p>It would be much less difficult, I conceive, so +strongly to excite the imagination by the majestic +eloquence of Racine's verses as to make you conscious +of fellow-feeling with his sublime personages, +than to debase your very heart and soul so +thoroughly as to enable you to fancy that you +have anything in common with the corrupt creations +of Victor Hugo.</p> + +<p>But even were it otherwise—were the scenes +imagined by this new Shakspeare more like the +real villany of human nature than those of the +noble writer he is said to have set aside, I should +still deny that this furnished any good reason for +bringing such scenes upon the stage. Why +should we make a pastime of looking upon vulgar +vice? Why should the lowest passions of +our nature be for ever brought out in parade before +us?</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"It is not and it cannot be for good."</p> + +<p>The same reasoning might lead us to turn from +the cultured garden, its marble terraces, its velvet +lawns, its flowers and fruits of every clime, that +we might take our pleasure in a bog—and for all +consolation be told, when we slip and flounder +about in its loathsome slime, that it is more +natural.</p> + +<p>I have written you a most unmerciful letter, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span> +and it is quite time that I should quit the theme, +for I get angry—angry that I have no power +to express in words all I feel on this subject. +Would that for one short hour or so I had +the pen which wrote the "Dunciad!"—I would +use it—heartily—and then take my leave by +saying,</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"Rentre dans le néant, dont je t'ai fait sortir."</p> + +<h2>LETTER XX.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Versailles.—St. Cloud.</p> + +<p>The Château de Versailles, that marvellous +<i>chef-d'œuvre</i> of the splendid taste and unbounded +extravagance of Louis le Grand, is shut up, and +has been so for the last eighteen months. This is +a great disappointment to such of our party as +have never seen its interminable chambers and +their gorgeous decorations. The reason assigned +for this unwonted exclusion of the public is, that +the whole of this enormous pile is filled with +workmen; not, however, for the purpose of restoring +it as a palace for the king, but of preparing +it as a sort of universal museum for the +nation. The buildings are in fact too extensive +for a palace; and splendid as it is, I can easily +believe no king of modern days would wish to +inhabit it. I have sometimes wondered that Napoleon +did not take a fancy to its vastness; but, +I believe, he had no great taste in the upholstering +line, and preferred converting his millions into +the sinews of war, to the possession of all the carving +and gilding in the world. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span></p> + +<p>If this projected museum, however, should be +<i>monté</i> with science, judgment and taste, and on +the usual scale of French magnificence, it will be +turning the costly whim of <i>le Grand Monarque</i> +to excellent account.</p> + +<p>The works which are going on there, were +mentioned at a party the other evening, when +some one stated that it was the intention of the +King to convert one portion of the building into +a gallery of national history, that should contain +pictures of all the victories which France had +ever won.</p> + +<p>The remark made in reply amused me much, +it was so very French.—"Ma foi!... Mais +cette galerie-là doit être bien longue—et assez +ennuyeuse pour les étrangers."</p> + +<p>Though the château was closed to us, we did +not therefore give up our purposed expedition to +Versailles: every object there is interesting, not +only from its splendour, but from the recollections +it revives of scenes with whose history we are all +familiar. Not only the horrors of the last century, +but all the regal glories of the preceding one, are +so well known to everybody, that there must have +been a prodigious deal of gossip handed down to +us from France, or we never could feel so much +better acquainted with events which have passed +at Versailles than with any scenes that have occurred +at an equal distance of time at Windsor.</p> + +<p>But so it is; and the English go there not +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span> +merely as strangers visiting a palace in a foreign +land, but as pilgrims to the shrine of the princes +and poets who have left their memory there, and +with whose names and histories they are as familiar +as if they belonged to us.</p> + +<p>The day we passed among the royal spectres +that never fail to haunt one at this palace of recollections, +was a mixture of sunshine and showers, +and our meditations seemed to partake of the +vicissitude.</p> + +<p>It is said that the great Louis reared this stupendous +dwelling in which to pass the gilded hours +of his idleness, because from St. Germain's he +could see the plain of St. Denis, over which his +funeral array was to pass, and the spire that +marked the spot where his too precious dust was +to be laid. Happy was it for him that the scutcheoned +sepulchre of St. Denis was the most distant +and most gloomy point to which his prophetic +glance could reach! Could the great king +have looked a little farther, and dreamed of the +scenes which were destined to follow this dreaded +passage to his royal tomb, how would he have +blessed the fate which permitted him to pass into +it so peacefully!</p> + +<p>It is quite wonderful to see how much of the +elaborate decoration and fine finishing of this +sumptuous place remains uninjured after being +visited by the most ferocious mob that ever collected +together. Had they been less intent on the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span> +savage object of their mission, it is probable that +they would have sated their insane rage in destroying +the palace itself, and the costly decorations +of its singular gardens. Though far inferior +in all ways either to the gardens of the Elector of +Hesse Cassel at Wilhelmshöhe, or to those of the +Grand Duke of Baden at Schwetzingen, those of +Versailles are still highly interesting from many +causes, and have so much of majesty and pomp +about them, that one cannot look upon them without +feeling that only the kings of the earth could +ever have had a master's right to take their pleasure +therein.</p> + +<p>Before we entered upon the orderly confusion +of groves, statues, temples, and water-works +through which it is necessary to be led, we made +our grey-headed guide lead us round and about +every part of the building while we listened to +his string of interesting old stories about Louis +Seize, and Marie Antoinette, and Monsieur, and +le Comte d'Artois, (for he seemed to have forgotten +that they had borne any other titles than +those he remembered in his youth,) all of whom +seemed to retain exactly the same place in his +imagination that they had occupied some fifty +years ago, when he was assistant to the keeper of +the <i>orangerie</i>. He boasted, with a vanity as fresh +as if it had been newly born, of the honours of +that near approach to royalty which he had formerly +enjoyed; recounted how the Queen called +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span> +one of the orange-trees her own, because she fancied +its blossoms sweeter than all the rest; and +how from such a broad-leafed double-blossoming +myrtle he had daily gathered a <i>bouquet</i> for her +majesty, which was laid upon her toilet exactly at +two o'clock. This old man knew every orange-tree, +its birth and history, as well as a shepherd +knows his flock. The venerable father of the +band dates his existence from the reign of François +Premier, and truly he enjoys a green old age. +The one surnamed Louis le Grand, who was twin +brother, as he said, to that mighty monarch, looks +like a youth beside it—and you are told that it +has not yet attained its full growth.</p> + +<p>Oh! could those orange-trees but speak! could +they recount to us the scenes they have witnessed; +could they describe to us all the beauties over +whom they have shed their fragrant flowers—all +the heroes, statesmen, poets, and princes who have +stepped in courtly paces beneath their shade; what +a world of witty wickedness, of solemn warning, +and of sad reflection, we should have!</p> + +<p>But though the orange-trees were mute, our old +man talked enough for them all. He was a faithful +servant to the old <i>régime</i>: and indeed it should +seem that there is something in the air of Versailles +favourable alike to orange-trees and loyalty; +for never did I hear, while wandering amidst their +aristocratic perfume, one word that was not of +sound orthodox legitimate loyalty to the race for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span> +whose service they have for so many hundred +years lived and bloomed. And still they blossom +on, unscathed by revolution, unblighted though an +usurper called them his;—happier in this than +many of those who were once privileged to parade +their dignity beneath their royal shade. The old +servitors still move among these venerable vegetable +grandees with the ceremonious air of courtiers, +offering obsequious service, if not to the king himself, +at least to his cousin-germans; and I am +persuaded there is not one of these old serving-men, +who wander about Versailles like ghosts +revisiting the scenes of former happiness, who +would not more humbly pull off his hat to François +Premier or Louis le Grand in the greenhouse, +than to any monarch of a younger race.</p> + +<p>Napoleon has left less trace of himself and his +giant power at Versailles than anywhere else; and +the naïads and hamadryads still lift their sculptured +heads with such an eternity of stately grace, +as makes one feel the evanescent nature of the +interlude that was played among them during the +empire. It is of the old race of Bourbon that the +whole region is redolent. "There," said our old +guide, "is the range of chambers that was occupied +by the Queen ... those were the King's +apartments ... there were the royal children ... +there Monsieur ... and there the Comte d'Artois."</p> + +<p>Then we were led round to the fatal balcony +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span> +which overhangs the entrance. It was there that +the fallen Marie Antoinette stood, her young son +in her arms, and the doomed King her husband +beside her, when she looked down upon the demons +drunk with blood, who sought her life. I had +heard all this hateful, but o'er-true history, more +than once before on the same spot, and shortening +the frightful detail, I hastened to leave it, though +I believe the good old man would willingly have +spent hours in dwelling upon it.</p> + +<p>The day had been named as one on which the +great waters were to play. But, little as Nature +has to do with this pretty exhibition, she interfered +on this occasion to prevent it. There was no +water. The dry winter would, they told us, probably +render it impossible to play them during the +whole summer.</p> + +<p>Here was another disappointment; but we +bore it heroically, and after examining and much +admiring the numberless allegories which people +the grounds, and to the creation of which, a poet +must have been as necessary as a sculptor, we +adjourned to the Trianons, there to meditate on +all the ceaseless vicissitudes of female influence +from Maintenon to Josephine. It is but a sad +review, but it may serve well to reconcile the majority +of womankind to the tranquil dreaminess of +obscurity.</p> + +<p>The next thing to be done was dining—and +most wretchedly done it was: but we found +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span> +something to laugh at, nevertheless; for when the +wine brought to us was found too bad to drink, and +we ordered better, no less than four bottles were +presented to us in succession, each one increasing +in price, but being precisely of the same quality. +When we charged the black-eyed daughter of the +house with the fact, she said with perfect good-humour, +but nowise denying it, that she was very +sorry they had no better. When the bill was +brought, the same damsel civilly hoped that we +should not think ten sous (half-a-franc) too much +to pay for having opened so many bottles. Now, +as three of them were firmly corked, and carefully +sealed besides, we paid our ten sous without any +complaining.</p> + +<p>The looking at a fête at St. Cloud made part +of the business of the day; but in order to get +there, we were obliged to mount into one of +those indescribable vehicles by which the gay +<i>bourgeoisie</i> of Paris are conveyed from palace to +palace, and from <i>guinguette</i> to <i>guinguette</i>. We +had dismissed our comfortable <i>citadine</i>, being assured +that we should have no difficulty in finding +another. In this, however, we were disappointed, +the proportion of company appearing greatly to +exceed that of the carriages which were to convey +them, and we considered ourselves fortunate in +securing places in an equipage which we should +have scorned indignantly when we quitted Paris +in the morning. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span></p> + +<p>The whimsical gaiety of the crowd, all hurrying +one way, was very amusing; all anxious to reach +St. Cloud before the promised half-hour's display +of water-works were over; all testifying, by look, +gesture, voice, and words, that light effervescence +of animal spirits so essentially characteristic of +the country, and all forming a moving panorama +so gay and so bright as almost to make one giddy +by looking at it.</p> + +<p>Some among the capricious variety of vehicles +were drawn by five or six horses. These were +in truth nothing but gaily-painted waggons, hung +on rude springs, with a flat awning over them. +In several I counted twenty persons; but there +were some few among them in which one or +perhaps two seats were still vacant—and then +the rapturous glee of the party was excited to +the utmost by the efforts of the driver, as gay +as themselves, to obtain customers to fill the +vacancies.</p> + +<p>Every individual overtaken on the road was invited +by the most clamorous outcries to occupy the +vacant seats. "St. Cloud! St. Cloud! St. Cloud!" +shouted by the driver and re-echoed by all his company, +rang in the startled ears of all they passed; +and if a traveller soberly journeying in the contrary +direction was met, the invitation was uttered +with tenfold vehemence, accompanied by shouts +of laughter; which, far from offending the party +who provoked it, was invariably answered with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span> +equal frolic and fun. But when upon one occasion +a carriage posting almost at full gallop towards +Versailles was encountered, the ecstasy of +mirth with which it was greeted exceeds description. +"St. Cloud! St. Cloud! St. Cloud!—Tournez +donc, messieurs—tournez à St. Cloud!" The +shouts and vociferations were enough to frighten +all the horses in the world excepting French +ones; and they must be so thoroughly broken +to the endurance of din, that there is little +danger of their starting at it. I could have almost +fancied that upon this occasion they took +part in it; for they shook their ropes and their +tassels, snorted and tossed, very much as if they +enjoyed the fun.</p> + +<p>After all, we, and many hundred others, arrived +too late for the show, the supply of water failing +even before the promised half-hour had elapsed. +The gardens, however, were extremely full, and +all the world looked as gay and as well-pleased as +if nothing had gone wrong.</p> + +<p>I wonder if these people ever grow old,—that +is, old as we do, sitting in the chimney-corner, +and dreaming no more of fêtes than of playing at +blind-man's-buff. I have certainly seen here, as +elsewhere, men, and women too, grey-headed, and +wrinkled enough to be as solemn as the most +venerable judge upon the bench; but I never +saw any that did not seem ready to hop, skip, +jump, waltz, and make love.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXI.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +History of the Vicomte de B——. His opinions.—State +of France.—Expediency.</p> + +<p>I have had a curious conversation this morning +with an old gentleman whom I believed to +be a thorough legitimate, but who turns out, +as you will see, something else—I hardly know +what to call it—<i>doctrinaire</i> I suppose it must be, +yet it is not quite that either.</p> + +<p>But before I give you his opinions, let me present +himself. M. le Vicomte de B—— is a person +that I am very sure you would be happy to +know anywhere. His residence is not in Paris, +but at a château that he describes as the most +profound retirement imaginable; yet it is not +more than thirty leagues from Paris. He is a +widower, and his only child is a daughter, who +has been some years married.</p> + +<p>The history of this gentleman, given as he gave +it himself, was deeply interesting. It was told +with much feeling, some wit, and no prolixity. +Were I, however, to attempt to repeat it to you +in the same manner, it would become long and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span> +tedious, and in every way as unlike as possible +to what it was as it came fresh from the living +fountain.</p> + +<p>In brief, then, I will tell you that he was the +younger son of an old and noble house, and, for +seven years, page to Louis Seize. He must have +been strikingly handsome; and young as he was +at the time of the first revolution, he seems +already to have found the court a very agreeable +residence. He had held a commission in +the army about two years, when his father, and +his only brother, his elder by ten years, were +obliged to leave the country, to save their lives.</p> + +<p>The family was not a wealthy one, and great +sacrifices were necessary to enable them to live +in England. What remained became eventually +the property of our friend, both father and brother +having died in exile. With this remnant +of fortune he married, not very prudently; and +having lost his wife and disposed of his daughter +in marriage, he is now living in his large dilapidated +château, with one female servant, and an +old man as major-domo, valet, and cook, who +served with him in La Vendée, and who, by his +description, must be a perfect Corporal Trim.</p> + +<p>I would give a good deal to be able to accept +the invitation I have received to pay him a visit +at his castle. I think I should find just such a +<i>ménage</i> as that which Scott so beautifully describes +in one of his prefaces. But the wish is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span> +vain, such an excursion being quite impossible; +so I must do without the castle, and content myself +with the long morning visits that its agreeable +owner is so kind as to make us.</p> + +<p>I have seen him frequently, and listened with +great interest to his little history; but it was only +this morning that the conversation took a speculative +turn. I was quite persuaded, but certainly +from my own preconceived notions only, and not +from anything I have heard him say, that M. de +B—— was a devoted legitimate. An old noble—page +to Louis Seize—a royalist soldier in La +Vendée,—how could I think otherwise? Yet he +talked to me as ... you shall hear.</p> + +<p>Our conversation began by his asking me if I +was conscious of much material change in Paris +since I last visited it.</p> + +<p>I replied, that I certainly saw some, but perhaps +suspected more.</p> + +<p>"I dare say you do," said he; "it is what your +nation is very apt to do: but take my advice,—believe +what you see, and nothing else."</p> + +<p>"But what one can see in the course of a month +or two is so little, and I hear so much."</p> + +<p>"That is true; but do you not find that what +you hear from one person is often contradicted by +another?"</p> + +<p>"Constantly," I replied.</p> + +<p>"Then what can you do at last but judge by +what you see?" +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span></p> + +<p>"Why, it appears to me that the better plan +would be to listen to all parties, and let my balancing +belief incline to the testimony that has +most weight."</p> + +<p>"Then be careful that this weight be not false. +There are some who will tell you that the national +feeling which for so many centuries has +kept France together as a powerful and predominating +people is loosened, melted, and gone;—that +though there are Frenchmen left, there is no +longer a French people."</p> + +<p>"To any who told me so," I replied, "I would +say, that the division they complained of, arose not +so much from any change in the French character, +as from the false position in which many were +unhappily placed at the present moment. Men's +hearts are divided because they are diversely drawn +aside from a common centre."</p> + +<p>"And you would say truly," said he; "but +others will tell you, that regenerated France will +soon dictate laws to the whole earth; that her +flag will become the flag of all people—her government +their government; and that their tottering +monarchies will soon crumble into dust, to +become part and parcel of her glorious republic."</p> + +<p>"And to these I should say, that they appeared +to be in a very heavy slumber, and that the +sooner they could wake out of it and shake off +their feverish dreams, the better it would be for +them." +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span></p> + +<p>"But what would your inference be as to the +state of the country from such reports as these?"</p> + +<p>"I should think that, as usual, truth lay between. +I should neither believe that France was +so united as to constitute a single-minded giant, +nor so divided as to have become a mass of unconnected +atoms, or a race of pigmies."</p> + +<p>"You know," he continued, "that the fashionable +phrase for describing our condition at present +is, that we are in <i>a state of transition</i>,—from +butterflies to grubs, or from grubs to butterflies, +I know not which; but to me it seems that the +transition is over,—and it is high time that it +should be so. The country has known neither +rest nor peace for nearly half a century; and +powerful as she has been and still is, she must at +last fall a prey to whoever may think it worth +their while to despoil her, unless she stops short +while it is yet time, and strengthens herself by a +little seasonable repose."</p> + +<p>"But how is this repose to be obtained?" said I. +"Some of you wish to have one king, some another, +and some to have no king at all. This is +not a condition in which a country is very likely +to find repose."</p> + +<p>"Not if each faction be of equal power, or +sufficiently so to persevere in struggling for the +mastery. Our only hope lies in the belief that +there is no such equality. Let him who has +seized the helm keep it: if he be an able helmsman, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span> +he will keep us in smooth water;—and it is +no longer time for us to ask how he got his commission; +let us be thankful that he happens to +be of the same lineage as those to whose charge +we have for so many ages committed the safety of +our bark."</p> + +<p>I believe my countenance expressed my astonishment; +for the old gentleman smiled and said,</p> + +<p>"Do I frighten you with my revolutionary +principles?"</p> + +<p>"Indeed, you surprise me a little," I replied: +"I should have thought that the rights of a +legitimate monarch would have been in your +opinion indefeasible."</p> + +<p>"Where is the law, my good lady, that may +control necessity?... I speak not of my own +feelings, or of those of the few who were born +like myself in another era. Very terrible convulsions +have passed over France, and perhaps +threaten the rest of Europe. I have for many +years stood apart and watched the storm; and I +am quite sure, and find much comfort in the +assurance, that the crimes and passions of men +cannot change the nature of things. They may +produce much misery, they may disturb and confuse +the peaceful current of events; but man still +remains as he was, and will seek his safety and +his good, where he has ever found them—under +the shelter of power."</p> + +<p>"There, indeed, I quite agree with you. But +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span> +surely the more lawful and right the power is, the +more likely it must be to remain tranquil and undisputed +in its influence."</p> + +<p>"France has no longer the choice," said he, +interrupting me abruptly. "I speak but as a +looker-on; my political race is ended; I have +more than once sworn allegiance to the elder +branch of the house of Bourbon, and certainly +nothing would tempt me to hold office or take +oath under any other. But do you think it +would be the duty of a Frenchman who has +three grandsons native to the soil of France,—do +you really think it the duty of such a one to +invoke civil war upon the land of his fathers, and +remembering only his king, to forget his country? +I will not tell you, that if I could wake to-morrow +morning and find a fifth Henry peacefully seated +on the throne of his fathers, I might not rejoice; +particularly if I were sure that he would be as +likely to keep the naughty boys of Paris in order +as I think his cousin Philippe is. Were there +profit in wishing, I would wish for France a government +so strong as should effectually prevent +her from destroying herself; and that government +should have at its head a king whose right to +reign had come to him, not by force of arms, but +by the will of God in lawful succession. But +when we mortals have a wish, we may be thankful +if the half of it be granted;—and, in truth, I +think that I have the first and better half of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span> +mine to rejoice in. There is a stout and sturdy +strength in the government of King Philippe, +which gives good hope that France may recover +under its protection from her sins and her sorrows, +and again become the glory of her children."</p> + +<p>So saying, M. de B—— rose to leave me, and +putting out his hand in the English fashion, added, +"I am afraid you do not like me so well as +you did.... I am no longer a true and loyal +knight in your estimation ... but something, +perhaps, very like a rebel and a traitor?... Is it +not so?"</p> + +<p>I hardly knew how to answer him. He certainly +had lost a good deal of that poetical elevation +of character with which I had invested him; +yet there was a mixture of honesty and honour +in his frankness that I could not help esteeming. +I thanked him very sincerely for the openness +with which he had spoken, but confessed +that I had not quite made up my mind to think +that expediency was the right rule for human +actions. It certainly was not the noblest, and +therefore I was willing to believe that it was not +the best.</p> + +<p>"I must go," said he, looking at his watch, +"for it is my hour of dining, or I think I could +dispute with you a little upon your word <i>expediency</i>. +Whatever is really expedient for us to +do—that is, whatever is best for us in the +situation in which we are actually placed, is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span> +really right. Adieu!—I shall present myself +again ere long; and if you admit me, I shall +be thankful."</p> + +<p>So saying, he departed,—leaving us all, I believe, +a little less in alt about him than before, +but certainly with no inclination to shut our doors +against him.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Père Lachaise.—Mourning in public.—Defacing the Tomb +of Abelard and Eloïsa.—Baron Munchausen.—Russian +Monument.—Statue of Manuel.</p> + +<p>Often as I have visited the enclosure of Père +Lachaise, it was with feelings of renewed curiosity +and interest that I yesterday accompanied thither +those of my party who had not yet seen it. I was +well pleased to wander once more through the cypress +alleys, now grown into fine gloomy funereal +shades, and once more to feel that wavering sort +of emotion which I always experience there;—one +moment being tempted to smile at the fantastic +manner in which affection has been manifested,—and +the next, moved to tears by some +touch of tenderness, that makes itself felt even +amidst the vast collection of childish superstitions +with which the place abounds.</p> + +<p>This mournful garden is altogether a very solemn +and impressive spectacle. What a world of +mortality does one take in at one glance! It will +set one thinking a little, however fresh from the +busy idleness of Paris,—of Paris, that antidote to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span> +all serious thought, that especial paradise for the +worshippers of <span class="smcap">Sans Souci</span>.</p> + +<p>A profusion of spring flowers are at this season +hourly shedding their blossoms over every little +cherished enclosure. There is beauty, freshness, +fragrance on the surface.... It is a fearful contrast!</p> + +<p>I do not remember any spot, either in church +or churchyard, where the unequal dignity of the +memorials raised above the dust which lies so +very equally beneath them all is shown in a +manner to strike the heart so forcibly as it does +at Père Lachaise. Here, a shovelful of weeds +have hardly room to grow; and there rises a +costly pile, shadowing its lowly neighbour. On +this side the narrow path, sorrow is wrapped +round and hid from notice by the very poverty +that renders it more bitter; while, on the other, +wealth, rank, and pride heap decorations over the +worthless clay, striving vainly to conceal its nothingness. +It is an epitome of the world they +have left: remove the marble and disturb the +turf, human nature will be found to wear the +same aspect under both.</p> + +<p>Many groups in deep mourning were wandering +among the tombs; so many indeed, that when +we turned aside from one, with the reverence one +always feels disposed to pay to sorrow, we were +sure to encounter another. This manner of lamenting +in public seems so strange to us! How +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span> +would it be for a shy English mother, who sobs +inwardly and hides the aching sorrow in her +heart's core,—how would she bear to bargain at +the public gate for a pretty garland, then enter +amidst an idle throng, with the toy hanging on +her finger, and, before the eyes of all who choose +to look, suspend it over the grave of her lost +child? An Englishwoman surely must lose her +reason either before or after such an act;—if it +were not the effect of madness, it would be the +cause of it. Yet such is the effect of habit, or +rather of the different tone of manners and of +mind here, that one may daily and hourly see parents, +most devoted to their children during their +lives, and most heart-broken when divided from +them by death, perform with streaming eyes these +public lamentations.</p> + +<p>It is nevertheless impossible, let the manner of it +differ from our own as much as it may, to look +at the freshly-trimmed flowers, the garlands, and +all the pretty tokens of tender care which meet +the eye in every part of this wide-spread mass of +mortal nothingness, without feeling that real love +and real sorrow have been at work.</p> + +<p>One small enclosure attracted my attention as +at once the most <i>bizarre</i> and the most touching +of all. It held the little grassy tomb of a young +child, planted round with choice flowers; and at +its head rose a semicircular recess, containing, +together with a crucifix and other religious emblems, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span> +several common playthings, which had +doubtless been the latest joy of the lost darling. +His age was stated to have been three years, and +he was mourned as the first and only child after +twelve years of marriage.</p> + +<p>Below this melancholy statement was inscribed—</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"Passans! priez pour sa malheureuse mère!"</p> + +<p>Might we not say, that</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p>Thought and affliction, passion, death itself,</p> +<p>They turn to favour and to prettiness?</p> +</div> + +<p>It would, I believe, be more just, as well as +more generous, instead of accusing the whole nation +of being the victims of affectation instead of +sorrow under every affliction that death can cause, +to believe that they feel quite as sincerely as ourselves; +though they have certainly a very different +way of showing it.</p> + +<p>I wish they, whoever they are, who had the command +of such matters, would have let the curious +tomb of Abelard and Eloïsa remain in decent +tranquillity in its original position. Nothing can +assimilate worse than do its Gothic form and decorations +with every object around it. The paltry +plaster tablet too, that has been stuck upon +it for the purpose of recording the history of the +tomb rather than of those who lie buried in it, +is in villanously bad taste; and we can only hope +that the elements will complete the work they +have begun, and then this barbarous defacing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span> +will crumble away before our grandchildren shall +know anything about it.</p> + +<p>The thickly-planted trees and shrubs have +grown so rapidly, as in many places to make it +difficult to pass through them; and the ground +appears to be extremely crowded nearly over its +whole extent. A few neighbouring acres have +been lately added to it; but their bleak, naked, +and unornamented surface forbids the eye as yet +to recognise this space as part of the enclosure. +One pale solitary tomb is placed within it, at +the very verge of the dark cypress line that +marks the original boundary; and it looks like a +sheeted ghost hovering about between night and +morning.</p> + +<p>One very noble monument has been added +since I last visited the garden: it is dedicated +to the memory of a noble Russian lady, whose +long unspellable name I forget. It is of white or +greyish marble, and of magnificent proportions,—lofty +and elegant, yet massive and entirely simple. +Altogether, it appeared to me to be as perfect +in taste as any specimen of monumental architecture +that I have ever seen, though it had not +the last best grace of sculpture to adorn it. There +is no effigy—no statue—scarcely an ornament +of any kind, but it seems constructed with a view +to unite equally the appearance of imposing majesty +and enduring strength. This splendid mausoleum +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span> +stands towards the top of the garden, and +forms a predominating and very beautiful object +from various parts of it.</p> + +<p>Among the hundreds of names which one reads +in passing,—I hardly know why, for they certainly +convey but small interest to the mind,—we met +with that of the <i>Baron Munchausen</i>. It was a +small and unpretending-looking stone, but bore a +host of blazing titles, by which it appears that +this Baron, whom I, and all my generation, I +believe, have ever looked upon as an imaginary +personage, was in fact something or other very +important to somebody or other who was very +powerful. Why his noble name has been made +such use of among us, I cannot imagine.</p> + +<p>In the course of our wanderings we came upon +this singular inscription:—</p> + +<p>"Ci-gît Caroline,"—(I think the name is Caroline,)—"fille +de Mademoiselle Mars."</p> + +<p>Is it not wonderful what a difference twenty-one +miles of salt-water can make in the ways and +manners of people?</p> + +<p>There are not many statues in the cemetery, +and none of sufficient merit to add much to its +embellishment; but there is one recently placed +there, and standing loftily predominant above +every surrounding object, which is strongly indicative +of the period of its erection, and of the +temper of the people to whom it seems to address +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span> +itself. This is a colossal figure of Manuel. The +countenance is vulgar, and the expression of +the features violent and exaggerated: it might +stand as the portrait of a bold factious rebel +for ever.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXIII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Remarkable People.—Distinguished People.—Metaphysical +Lady.</p> + +<p>Last night we passed our <i>soirée</i> at the house of +a lady who had been introduced to me with this +recommendation:—"You will be certain of meeting +at Madame de V——'s many <span class="smcap">remarkable +people</span>."</p> + +<p>This is, I think, exactly the sort of introduction +which would in any city give the most piquant +interest to a new acquaintance; but it does so +particularly at Paris; for this attractive capital +draws its collection of remarkable people from a +greater variety of nations, classes, and creeds, than +any other.</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, this term "remarkable people" +must not be taken too confidently to mean individuals +so distinguished that all men would desire +to gaze upon them; the phrase varying in +its value and its meaning according to the feelings, +faculties, and station of the speaker.</p> + +<p>Everybody has got his or her own "remarkable +people" to introduce to you; and I have begun to +find out, among the houses that are open to me, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span> +what species of "remarkable people" I am likely +to meet at each.</p> + +<p>When Madame A—— whispers to me as I +enter her drawing-room—"Ah! vous voilà! c'est +bon; j'aurais été bien fâchée si vous m'aviez manquée; +il y a ici, ce soir, une personne bien remarquable, +qu'il faut absolument vous présenter,"—I +am quite sure that I shall see some one who has +been a marshal, or a duke, or a general, or a physician, +or an actor, or an artist, to Napoleon.</p> + +<p>But if it were Madame B—— who said the +same thing, I should be equally certain that it must +be a comfortable-looking doctrinaire, who was, had +been, or was about to be in place, and who had +made his voice heard on the winning side.</p> + +<p>Madame C——, on the contrary, would not +deign to bestow such an epithet on any one whose +views and occupations were so earthward. It +could only be some philosopher, pale with the +labour of reconciling paradoxes or discovering a +new element.</p> + +<p>My charming, quiet, graceful, gentle Madame +D—— could use it only when speaking of an ex-chancellor, +or chamberlain, or friend, or faithful +servant of the exiled dynasty.</p> + +<p>As for the tall dark-browed Madame E——, +with her thin lips and sinister smile, though she +professes to hold a <i>salon</i> where talent of every party +is welcome, she never cares much, I am very sure, +for any remarkableness that is not connected with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span> +the great and immortal mischief of some revolution. +She is not quite old enough to have had +anything to do with the first; but I have no +doubt that she was very busy during the last, and +I am positive that she will never know peace by +night or day till another can be got up. If her +hopes fail on this point, she will die of atrophy; +for nothing affords her nourishment but what is +mixed up with rebellion against constituted authority.</p> + +<p>I know that she dislikes me; and I suspect I +owe the honour of being admitted to appear in her +presence solely to her determination that I should +hear everything that she thinks it would be disagreeable +for me to listen to. I believe she fancies +that I do not like to meet Americans; but she is +as much mistaken in this as in most other of her +speculations.</p> + +<p>I really never saw or heard of any fanaticism +equal to that, with which this lady worships destruction. +That whatever is, is wrong, is the rule +by which her judgment is guided in all things. +It is enough for her that a law on any point is established, +to render the thing legalised detestable; +and were the republic about which she raves, and +of which she knows as much as her lap-dog, to be +established throughout France to-morrow, I am +quite persuaded that we should have her embroidering +a regal robe for the most legitimate king +she could find, before next Monday. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span></p> + +<p>Madame F——'s <i>remarkables</i> are almost all of +them foreigners of the philosophic revolutionary +class; any gentry that are not particularly well +off at home, and who would rather prefer being +remarkable and remarked a few hundred miles +from their own country than in it.</p> + +<p>Madame G——'s are chiefly musical personages. +"Croyez-moi, madame," she says, "il n'y a que lui +pour toucher le piano.... Vous n'avez pas encore +entendu Mademoiselle Z——.... Quelle voix superbe!... +Elle fera, j'en suis sûre, une fortune +immense à Londres."</p> + +<p>Madame H——'s acquaintance are not so "remarkable" +for anything peculiar in each or any of +them, as for being in all things exactly opposed to +each other. She likes to have her parties described +as "Les soirées antithestiques de Madame H——," +and has a peculiar sort of pleasure in seeing people +sitting side by side on her hearth-rug, who would be +very likely to salute each other with a pistol-shot +were they to meet elsewhere. It is rather a singular +device for arranging a sociable party; but her +<i>soirées</i> are very delightful <i>soirées</i>, for all that.</p> + +<p>Madame J——'s friends are not "remarkable;" +they are "distinguished." It is quite extraordinary +what a number of distinguished individuals I +have met at her house.</p> + +<p>But I must not go through the whole alphabet, +lest I should tire you. So let me return to the +point from whence I set out, and take you with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span> +me to Madame de V——'s <i>soirée</i>. A large party +is almost always a sort of lottery, and your good +or bad fortune depends on the accidental vicinity +of pleasant or unpleasant neighbours.</p> + +<p>I cannot consider myself to have gained a prize +last night; and Fortune, if she means to make +things even, must place me to-night next the most +agreeable person in Paris. I really think that +should the same evil chance that beset me yesterday +pursue me for a week, I should leave the +country to escape from it. I will describe to you +the manner of my torment as well as I can, but +must fail, I think, to give you an adequate idea +of it.</p> + +<p>A lady I had never seen before walked across +the room to me last night soon after I entered it, +and making prisoner of Madame de V—— in the +way, was presented to me in due form. I was +placed on a sofa by an old gentleman with whom +we have formed a great friendship, and for whose +conversation I have a particular liking: he had +just seated himself beside me, when my new acquaintance +dislodged him by saying, as she attempted +to squeeze herself in between us, "Pardon, +monsieur; ne vous dérangez pas! ... mais si +madame voulait bien me permettre" ... and +before she could finish her speech, my old acquaintance +was far away and my new one close +beside me.</p> + +<p>She began the conversation by some very obliging +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span> +assurances of her wish to make my acquaintance. +"I want to discuss with you," said she. I +bowed, but trembled inwardly, for I do not like +discussions, especially with "remarkable" ladies. +"Yes," she continued, "I want to discuss with +you many topics of vital interest to us all—topics +on which I believe we now think differently, but +on which I feel quite sure that we should agree, +would you but listen to me."</p> + +<p>I smiled and bowed, and muttered something +civil, and looked as much pleased as I possibly +could,—and recollected, too, how large Paris was, +and how easy it would be to turn my back upon +conviction, if I found that I could not face it +agreeably. But, to say truth, there was something +in the eye and manner of my new friend that +rather alarmed me. She is rather pretty, nevertheless; +but her bright eyes are never still for +an instant, and she is one of those who aid the +power of speech by that of touch, to which she +has incessant recourse. Had she been a man, she +would have seized all her friends by the button: +but as it is, she can only lay her fingers with emphasis +upon your arm, or grasp a handful of your +sleeve, when she sees reason to fear that your +attention wanders.</p> + +<p>"You are a legitimatist! ... quel dommage! +Ah! you smile. But did you know the incalculable +injury done to the intellect by putting +chains upon it!... My studies, observe, are confined +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">202</a></span> +almost wholly to one subject,—the philosophy +of the human mind. Metaphysics have been +the great object of my life from a very early age." +(I should think she was now about seven or eight-and-twenty.) +"Yet sometimes I have the weakness +to turn aside from this noble pursuit to look +upon the troubled current of human affairs that is +rolling past me. I do not pretend to enter deeply +into politics—I have no time for it; but I see +enough to make me shrink from despotism and +legitimacy. Believe me, it cramps the mind; and +be assured that a constant succession of political +changes keeps the faculties of a nation on the +<i>qui vive</i>, and, abstractedly considered as a mental +operation, must be incalculably more beneficial +than the half-dormant state which takes place +after any long continuance in one position, let it +be what it may."</p> + +<p>She uttered all this with such wonderful rapidity, +that it would have been quite impossible for +me to have made any observation upon it as she +went along, if I had been ever so much inclined +to do so. But I soon found that this was not +expected of me.</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"'Twas hers to speak, and mine to hear;"</p> + +<p>and I made up my mind to listen as patiently as +I could till I should find a convenient opportunity +for changing my place.</p> + +<p>At different times, and in different climes, I +have heretofore listened to a good deal of nonsense, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span> +certainly; but I assure you I never did nor +ever can expect again to hear such a profusion of +wild absurdity as this lady uttered. Yet I am +told that she has in many circles the reputation of +being a woman of genius. It would be but a vain +attempt did I endeavour to go on remembering +and translating all she said; but some of her +speeches really deserve recording.</p> + +<p>After she had run her tilt against authority, she +broke off, exclaiming—</p> + +<p>"Mais, après tout,—what does it signify?... +When you have once devoted yourself to the study +of the soul, all these little distinctions do appear +so trifling!... I have given myself wholly to +the study of the soul; and my life passes in a +series of experiments, which, if I do not wear +myself out here," putting her hand to her forehead, +"will, I think, eventually lead me to something +important."</p> + +<p>As she paused for a moment, I thought I ought +to say something, and therefore asked her of what +nature were the experiments of which she spoke. +To which she replied—</p> + +<p>"Principally in comparative anatomy. None +but an experimentalist could ever imagine what +extraordinary results arise from this best and +surest mode of investigation. A mouse, for instance.... +Ah, madame! would you believe it +possible that the formation of a mouse could +throw light upon the theory of the noblest feeling +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span> +that warms the heart of man—even upon +valour? It is true, I assure you: such are the +triumphs of science. By watching the pulsations +of that <i>chétif</i> animal," she continued, eagerly laying +hold of my wrist, "we have obtained an immense +insight into the most interesting phenomena +of the passion of fear."</p> + +<p>At this moment my old gentleman came back +to me, but evidently without any expectation of +being able to resume his seat. It was only, I +believe, to see how I got on with my metaphysical +neighbour. There was an infinite deal of humour +in the glance he gave me as he said, "Eh +bien, Madame Trollope, est-ce que Madame —— +vous a donné l'ambition de la suivre dans ses sublimes +études?"</p> + +<p>"I fear it would prove beyond my strength," I +replied. Upon which Madame —— started off +anew in praise of <i>her</i> science—"the only science +worthy the name; the science...."</p> + +<p>Here my old friend stole off again, covered by +an approaching tray of ices; and I soon after did +the same; for I had been busily engaged all day, +and I was weary,—so weary that I dreaded dropping +to sleep at the very instant that Madame —— +was exerting herself to awaken me to a higher +state of intelligence.</p> + +<p>I have not, however, told you one tenth part of +the marvellous absurdities she poured forth; yet +I suspect I have told you enough. I have never +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span> +before met anything so pre-eminently ridiculous +as this: but upon my saying so to my old friend +as I passed him near the door, he assured me that +he knew another lady, whose mania was education, +and whose doctrines and manner of explaining +them were decidedly more absurd than Madame +——'s philosophy of the soul.</p> + +<p>"Be not alarmed, however; I shall not bestow +her upon you, for I intend most carefully to keep +out of her way. Do you know of any English +ladies thus devoted to the study of the soul?"... +I am sincerely happy to say that I do not.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXIV.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Expedition to the Luxembourg.—No admittance for Females.—Portraits +of "Henri."—Republican Costume.—Quai +Voltaire.—Mural Inscriptions.—Anecdote of Marshal +Lobau.—Arrest.</p> + +<p>Ever since the trials at the Luxembourg commenced, +we have intended to make an excursion +thither, in order to look at the encampment in the +garden, at the military array around the palace, +and, in short, to see all that is visible for female +eyes in the general aspect of the place, so interesting +at the present moment from the important +business going on there.</p> + +<p>I have done all that could be done to obtain +admission to the Chamber during their sittings, +and have not been without friends who very kindly +interested themselves to render my efforts successful—but +in vain; no ladies have been permitted +to enter. Whether the feminine regrets have been +lessened or increased by the daily accounts that +are published of the outrageous conduct of the +prisoners, I will not venture to say. <i>C'est égal</i>; +get in we cannot, whether we wish it or not. It +is said, indeed, that in one of the tribunes set +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span> +apart for the public, a small white hand has been +seen to caress some jet-black curls upon the head +of a boy; and it was said, too, that the boy called +himself George S——d: but I have heard of no +other instance of any one not furnished with that +important symbol of prerogative, <i>une barbe au +menton</i>, who has ventured within the proscribed +limits.</p> + +<p>Our humble-minded project of looking at the +walls which enclose the blustering rebels and their +patient judges has been at length happily accomplished, +and not without affording us considerable +amusement.</p> + +<p>In addition to our usual party, we had the pleasure +of being accompanied by two agreeable Frenchmen, +who promised to explain whatever signs and +symbols might meet our eyes but mock our comprehension. +As the morning was delightful, we +agreed to walk to the place of our destination, and +repose ourselves as much as the tossings of a <i>fiacre</i> +would permit on the way home.</p> + +<p>That our route lay through the Tuileries Gardens +was one reason for this arrangement; and, as +usual, we indulged ourselves for a delightful half-hour +by sitting under the trees.</p> + +<p>Whenever six or eight persons wish to converse +together—not in <i>tête-à-tête</i>, but in a general confabulation, +I would recommend exactly the place +we occupied for the purpose, with the chairs of +the party drawn together, not spread into a circle, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span> +but collected in a group, so that every one can +hear, and every one can be heard.</p> + +<p>Our conversation was upon the subject of various +prints which we had seen exposed upon the +Boulevards as we passed; and though our two +Frenchmen were excellent friends, it was very +evident that they did not hold the same opinions +in politics;—so we had some very pleasant +sparring.</p> + +<p>We have been constantly in the habit of remarking +a variety of portraits of a pretty, elegant-looking +youth, sometimes totally without letters—and +yet they were not proofs, excepting of an antique +loyalty,—sometimes with the single word +"Henri!"—sometimes with a sprig of the pretty +weed we call "Forget-me-not,"—and sometimes +with the name of "Le Duc de Bordeaux." As +we passed one of the cases this morning which +stand out before a large shop on the Boulevards, +I remarked a new one: it was a pretty lithographic +print, and being very like an original +miniature which had been kindly shown me during +a visit I paid in the Faubourg St. Germain, +I stopped to buy it, and writing my name on the +envelope, ordered it to be sent home.</p> + +<p>M. P——, the gentleman who was walking +beside me when I stopped, confirmed my opinion +that it was a likeness, by his personal knowledge of +the original; and it was not difficult to perceive, +though he spoke but little on the subject, that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span> +an affectionate feeling for "<span class="smcap">the cause</span>" and its +young hero was at his heart.</p> + +<p>M. de L——, the other gentleman who had +joined our party, was walking behind us, and +came up as I was making my purchase. He +smiled. "I see what you are about," said he: +"if you and P—— continue to walk together, +I am sure you will plot some terrible treason +before you get to the Luxembourg."</p> + +<p>When we were seated in the Tuileries Gardens, +M. de L—— renewed his attack upon me +for what he called my seditious conduct in having +encouraged the vender of a prohibited article, +and declared that he thought he should but do +his duty if he left M. P—— and myself in safe +custody among the other rebellious characters at +the Luxembourg.</p> + +<p>"My sedition," replied M. P——, "is but speculative. +The best among us now can only sigh that +things are not quite as they should be, and be +thankful that they are not quite as bad as they +might be."</p> + +<p>"I rejoice to find that you allow so much, mon +cher," replied his friend. "Yes, I think it might +be worse; par exemple, if such gentry as those +yonder were to have their way with us."</p> + +<p>He looked towards three youths who were stalking +up the walk before us with the air of being +deeply intent on some business of dire import. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span> +They looked like walking caricatures—and in +truth they were nothing else.</p> + +<p>They were republicans. Similar figures are +constantly seen strutting upon the Boulevards, or +sauntering, like those before us, in the Tuileries, +or hovering in sinister groups about the Bois de +Boulogne, each one believing himself to bear the +brow of a Brutus and the heart of a Cato. But +see them where or when you will, they take good +care to be unmistakable; there is not a child of ten +years old in Paris who cannot tell a republican +when he sees him. In several print-shops I have +seen a key to their mystical toilet which may +enable the ignorant to read them right. A hat, +whose crown if raised for a few inches more would +be conical, is highest in importance, as in place; +and the shade of Cromwell may perhaps glory in +seeing how many desperate wrongheads still mimic +his beaver. Then come the long and matted +locks, that hang in heavy ominous dirtiness beneath +it. The throat is bare, at least from linen; +but a plentiful and very disgusting profusion of +hair supplies its place. The waistcoat, like the hat, +bears an immortal name—"<span class="smcap">Gilet à la Robespierre</span>" +being its awful designation; and the extent +of its wide-spreading lapels is held to be a +criterion of the expansive principles of the wearer. +<i>Au reste</i>, a general air of grim and savage blackguardism +is all that is necessary to make up the +outward man of a republican of Paris in 1835. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span></p> + +<p>But, oh! the grimaces by which I have seen +human face distorted by persons wearing this +masquerading attire! Some roll their eyes and +knit their brows as if they would bully the whole +universe; others fix their dark glances on the +ground in fearful meditation; while other some +there be who, while gloomily leaning against a +statue or a tree, throw such terrific meaning into +their looks as might naturally be interpreted into +the language of the witches in Macbeth—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1"> +"We must, we will—we must, we will</p> +<p>Have much more blood,—and become worse,</p> +<p>And become worse" ... &c. &c.</p> +</div> + +<p>The three young men who had just passed us +were exactly of this stamp. Our legitimate friend +looked after them and laughed heartily.</p> + +<p>"C'est à nous autres, mon cher," said de L——, +"to enjoy that sight. You and yours would have +but small reason to laugh at such as these, if it +were not the business of us and ours to take care +that they should do you no harm. You may +thank the eighty thousand National Guards of +Paris for the pleasure of quizzing with such a +complacent feeling of security these very ferocious-looking +persons."</p> + +<p>"For that I thank them heartily," replied M. +P——; "only I think the business would have +been quite as well done if those who performed it +had the right to do so." +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span></p> + +<p>"Bah! Have you not tried, and found you +could make nothing of it?"</p> + +<p>"I think not, my friend," replied the legitimatist: +"we were doing very well, and exerting +ourselves to keep the unruly spirits in order, +when you stepped in, and promised all the +naughty boys in Paris a holiday if they would +but make you master. They did make you master—they +have had their holiday, and now...."</p> + +<p>"And now ..." said I, "what will come +next?"</p> + +<p>Both the gentlemen answered me at once.</p> + +<p>"Riots," said the legitimatist.</p> + +<p>"Good order," said the doctrinaire.</p> + +<p>We proceeded in our walk, and having crossed +the Pont Royal, kept along the Quai Voltaire, +to avoid the Rue du Bac; as we all agreed that, +notwithstanding Madame de Staël spoke so lovingly +of it at a distance, it was far from agreeable +when near.</p> + +<p>Were it not for a sort of English horror of +standing before shop-windows, the walking along +that Quai Voltaire might occupy an entire morning. +From the first wide-spread display of "remarkable +people" for five sous apiece—and there +are heads among them which even in their +rude lithography would repay some study—from +this five-sous gallery of fame to the entrance of +the Rue de Seine, it is an almost uninterrupted +show;—books, old and new—rich, rare, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">213</a></span> +worthless; engravings that may be classed likewise,—<i>articles +d'occasion</i> of all sorts,—but, far +above all the rest, the most glorious museums of +old carving and gilding, of monstrous chairs, stupendous +candlesticks, grotesque timepieces, and +ornaments without a name, that can be found +in the world. It is here that the wealthy fancier +of the massive splendour of Louis Quinze comes +with a full purse, and it is hence that beyond all +hope he departs with a light one. The present +royal family of France, it is said, profess a taste +for this princely but ponderous style of decoration; +and royal carriages are often seen to stop at +the door of <i>magasins</i> so heterogeneous in their +contents as to admit all titles excepting only that +of "<i>magasin de nouveautés</i>," but having at the +first glance very greatly the air of a pawnbroker's +shop.</p> + +<p>During this lounge along the Quai Voltaire, +I saw for the first time some marvellously uncomely +portraits, with the names of each inscribed +below, and a running title for all, classing them +<i>en masse</i> as "<i>Les Prévenus d'Avril</i>." If these be +faithful portraits, the originals are to be greatly +pitied; for they seem by nature predestined to +the evil work they have been about. Every one +of them looks</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="i1">"Worthy to be a rebel, for to that</p> +<p>The multiplying villanies of nature</p> +<p>Do swarm upon him."</p> +</div> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">214</a></span></p> + +<p>It should seem that the materials for rebellion +were in Shakspeare's days much of the same kind +as they are in ours. If these be portraits, the +originals need have no fear of the caricaturist +before their eyes—their "villanies of nature" +could hardly be exaggerated; and I should think +that H. B. himself would try his pencil upon them +in vain.</p> + +<p>On the subject which the examination of these +<i>prévenus d'Avril</i> naturally led to, our two French +friends seemed to be almost entirely of the same +opinion; the legitimatist confessing that "any +king was better than none," and the doctrinaire +declaring that he would rather the country should +have gone without the last revolution, glorious +and immortal as it was, than that it should be +exposed to another, especially such a one as +MM. les Prévenus were about to prepare for +them.</p> + +<p>Being arrived at <i>le quartier Latin</i>, we amused +ourselves by speculating upon the propensity manifested +by very young men, who were still subjected +to restraint, for the overthrow and destruction +of everything that denotes authority +or threatens discipline. Thus the walls in this +neighbourhood abounded with inscriptions to that +effect; "<i>A bas Philippe!</i>"—"<i>Les Pairs sont des +assassins!</i>"—"<i>Vive la République!</i>" and the like. +Pears of every size and form, with scratches signifying +eyes, nose, and mouth, were to be seen in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span> +all directions: which being interpreted, denotes +the contempt of the juvenile students for the +reigning monarch. A more troublesome evidence +of this distaste for authority was displayed a few +days ago by four or five hundred of these disorderly +young men, who assembling themselves +together, followed with hootings and shoutings +M. Royer Collard, a professor lately appointed by +the government to the medical school, from the +college to his home in the Rue de Provence.</p> + +<p>Upon all such occasions, this government, or +any other, would do well to follow the hint given +them by an admirable manœuvre of General Lobau's, +the commander-in-chief of the National +Guard. I believe the anecdote is very generally +known; but, in the hope that you may not have +heard it, I will indulge myself by telling you the +story, which amused me infinitely; and it is better +that I should run the risk of your hearing it +twice, than of your not hearing it at all.</p> + +<p>A party of <i>les jeunes gens de Paris</i>, who +were exerting themselves to get up a little republican +<i>émeute</i>, had assembled in considerable +numbers in the Place Vendôme. The drums +beat—the commandant was summoned and appeared. +The young malcontents closed their +ranks, handled their pocket-knives and walking-sticks, +and prepared to stand firm. The general +was seen to dismiss an aide-de-camp, and a few +anxious moments followed, when something looking +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span> +fearfully like a military engine appeared advancing +from the Rue de la Paix. Was it cannon?... +A crowd of high-capped engineers +surrounded it, as with military order and address +it wheeled about and approached the spot where +the rioters had formed their thickest phalanx. +The word of command was given, and in an +instant the whole host were drenched to their +skins with water.</p> + +<p>Many who saw this memorable rout, in which +the laughing <i>pompiers</i> followed with their leather +pipes the scampering heroes, declare that no military +manœuvre ever produced so rapid an evacuation +of troops. There is something in the tone +and temper of this proceeding of the National +Guard which appears to me strikingly indicative +of the easy, quiet, contemptuous spirit in which +these powerful guardians of the existing government +contemplate its republican enemies.</p> + +<p>Having reached the Luxembourg and obtained +admission to the gardens, we again rested ourselves, +that we might look about at our ease upon +a scene that was not only quite novel, but certainly +very singular to those who were accustomed +to the ordinary aspect of the place.</p> + +<p>In the midst of lilacs and roses an encampment +of small white tents showed their warlike fronts. +Arms, drums, and all sorts of military accoutrements +were visible among them; while loitering +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span> +troops, some smoking, some reading, some sleeping, +completed the unwonted appearance of the +scene.</p> + +<p>It would have been impossible, I believe, in all +France to have fixed ourselves on a spot where +our two French friends would have found so many +incitements to unity of opinion and feeling as this. +Our conversation, therefore, was not only very +amicable, but ran some risk of being dull from +the mere want of contradiction; for to a hearty +conscientious condemnation of the proceedings +which led to this trial of the <i>prévenus d'Avril</i> +there was an unanimous sentence passed <i>nem. +con.</i> throughout the whole party.</p> + +<p>M. de L—— gave us some anecdotes of one +or two of the persons best known among the +prisoners; but upon being questioned respecting +the others, he burst out indignantly in the words +of Corneille—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p> +——"Le reste ne vaut pas l'honneur d'être nommé:</p> +<p>Un tas d'hommes perdus de dettes et de crimes,</p> +<p>Que pressent de nos loix les ordres légitimes,</p> +<p>Et qui désespérant de les plus éviter,</p> +<p>Si tout n'est renversé, ne sauraient subsister."</p> +</div> + +<p>"Ben trovato!" exclaimed P——; "you could +not have described them better—but...."</p> + +<p>This "but" would very probably have led to +observations that might have put our <i>belle harmonie</i> +out of tune, or at least have produced the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span> +renewal of our peaceable sparring, had not a little +bustle among the trees at a short distance behind +us cut short our session.</p> + +<p>It seems that ever since the trials began, the +chief duty of the gendarmes—(I beg pardon, I +should say, of <i>la Garde de Paris</i>)—has been to +prevent any assembling together of the people in +knots for conversation and gossipings in the courts +and gardens of the Luxembourg. No sooner are +two or three persons observed standing together, +than a policeman approaches, and with a tone of +command pronounces, "Circulez, messieurs!—circulez, +s'il vous plaît." The reason for this precaution +is, that nightly at the Porte St. Martin a +few score of <i>jeunes gens</i> assemble to make a very +idle and unmeaning noise, the echo of which regularly +runs from street to street till the reiterated +report amounts to the announcement of an <i>émeute</i>. +We are all now so used to these harmless little +<i>émeutes</i> at the Porte St. Martin, that we mind +them no more than General Lobau himself: nevertheless, +it is deemed proper, trumpery as the +cause may be, to prevent anything like a gathering +together of the mob in the vicinity of the +Luxembourg, lest the same hundred-tongued lady +who constantly magnifies the hootings of a few +idle mechanics into an <i>émeute</i> should spread a +report throughout France that the Luxembourg +was besieged by the people. The noise which +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">219</a></span> +had disturbed us was occasioned by the gathering +together of about a dozen persons; but a policeman +was in the midst of the group, and we heard +rumours of an <i>arrestation</i>. In less than five +minutes, however, everything was quiet again: +but we marked two figures so picturesque in their +republicanism, that we resumed our seats while +a sketch was made from them, and amused ourselves +the while in fancying what the ominous +words could be that were so cautiously exchanged +between them. M. de L—— said that there could +be no doubt that they ran thus:</p> +<div class="blockquot"> +<p>"Ce soir, à la Porte St. Martin!"<br /> +Answer.--"J'y serai."</p> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter p6" style="width: 403px;"><a name="illo4" id="illo4"></a> +<img src="images/ill243.jpg" width="403" height="600" alt="Ce soir, à la Porte St. Martin!" /> +<p class="smcap s05">Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu.</p> +<p class="caption smcap">"Ce soir, à la Porte S<sup>t</sup>. Martin!"<br /> +"J'y serai."</p> +<p class="s05 caption">London, Published by Richard Bentley, 1836.</p> +</div> + +<h2>LETTER XXV.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Chapelle Expiatoire.—Devotees seen there.—Tri-coloured +flag out of place there.—Flower Market of the Madeleine.—Petites +Maîtresses.</p> + +<p>Of all the edifices finished in Paris since my +last visit, there is not one which altogether pleases +me better than the little "Chapelle Expiatoire" +erected in memory of Louis the Sixteenth, and +his beautiful but ill-starred queen.</p> + +<p>This monument was planned and in part executed +by Louis the Eighteenth, and finished by +Charles the Tenth. It stands upon the spot +where many butchered victims of the tyrant mob +were thrown in 1793. The story of the royal +bodies having been destroyed by quicklime is +said to have been fabricated and circulated for +the purpose of preventing any search after them, +which might, it was thought, have produced a +dangerous reaction of feeling among the whim-governed +populace.</p> + +<p>These bodies, and several others, which were +placed in coffins, and inscribed with the names of +the murdered occupants, lay buried together for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">221</a></span> +many years after the revolution in a large <i>chantier</i>, +or wood-yard, at no great distance from the place +of execution.</p> + +<p>That this spot had been excavated for the purpose +of receiving these sad relics, is a fact well +known, and it was never lost sight of from the +terrible period at which the ground was so employed; +but the unseemly vault continued undisturbed +till after the restoration, when the bodies +of the royal victims were sought and found. +Their bones were then conveyed to the long-hallowed +shrine of St. Denis; but the spot where +the mangled remains were first thrown was consecrated, +and is now become the site of this beautiful +little Chapelle Expiatoire.</p> + +<p>The enclosure in which this building stands is +of considerable extent, reaching from the Rue de +l'Arcade to the Rue d'Anjou. This space is lined +with closely-planted rows of cypress-trees on every +side, which are protected by a massive railing, +neatly painted. The building itself and all its +accompaniments are in excellent taste; simple, +graceful, and solemn.</p> + +<p>The interior is a small Greek cross, each extremity +of which is finished by a semicircle surmounted +by a semi-dome. The space beneath the +central dome is occupied by chairs and benches +covered with crimson velvet, for the use of the +faithful—in every sense—who come to attend the +mass which is daily performed there. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">222</a></span></p> + +<p>As long as the daughter of the murdered monarch +continued to reside in Paris, no morning +ever passed without her coming to offer up her +prayers at this expiatory shrine.</p> + +<p>One of the four curved extremities is occupied +by the altar; that opposite to it, by the entrance; +and those on either side, by two well-composed +and impressive groups in white marble—that to +the right of the altar representing Marie Antoinette +bending beside a cross supported by an +angel,—and that to the left, the felon-murdered +monarch whose wretched and most unmerited +destiny she shared. On the pedestal of the king's +statue is inscribed his will; on that of the queen, +her farewell letter to the Princess Elizabeth.</p> + +<p>Nothing can exceed the chaste delicacy of the +few ornaments admitted into the chapel. They +consist only, I think, of golden candlesticks, placed +in niches in the white marble walls. The effect +of the whole is beautiful and impressive.</p> + +<p>I often go there; yet I can hardly understand +what the charm can be in the little building itself, +or in the quiet mass performed there without +music, which can so attract me. It is at no great +distance from our apartments in the Rue de Provence, +and a walk thither just occupies the time +before breakfast. I once went there on a Sunday +morning with some of my family; but then it was +full—indeed so crowded, that it was impossible to +see across the building, or feel the beauty of its +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">223</a></span> +elegant simplicity. The pale figures of the royal +dead, the foully murdered, were no longer the +principal objects; and though I have no doubt +that all present were right loyal spirits, with +whose feelings I am well enough disposed to sympathise, +yet I could not read each saddened brow, +and attach a romance to it, as I never fail to do +during my week-day visits.</p> + +<p>There are two ladies, for example, whom I constantly +see there, ever in the same place, and ever +in the same attitude. The elder of these I feel +perfectly sure must have passed her youth near +Marie Antoinette, for it is at the foot of her statue +that she kneels—or I might almost say that she +prostrates herself, for she throws her arms forward +on a cushion that is placed before her, and +suffers her aged head to fall upon them, in a manner +that speaks more sorrow than I can describe. +The young girl who always accompanies and +kneels beside her may, I think, be her granddaughter. +They have each of them "<i>Gentlewoman +born</i>" written on every feature, in characters +not to be mistaken. The old lady is very pale, +and the young one looks as if she were not passing +a youth of gaiety and enjoyment.</p> + +<p>There is a grey-headed old man, too, who +is equally constant in his attendance at this +melancholy chapel. He might sit as a model +for a portrait of <i>le bon vieux temps</i>; but he has +a stern though sad expression of countenance, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">224</a></span> +which seems to be exactly a masculine modification +of what is passing at the heart and in the +memory of the old lady at the opposite side of the +chapel. These are figures which send the thoughts +back for fifty years; and seen in the act of assisting +at a mass for the souls of Louis Seize and +his queen, produce a powerful effect on the imagination.</p> + +<p>I have ventured to describe this melancholy +spot, and what I have seen there, the more particularly +because, easy as it is of access, you might +go to Paris a dozen times without seeing it, as in +fact hundreds of English travellers do. One reason +for this is, that it is not opened to the public +gaze as a show, but can only be entered during +the hour of prayer, which is inconveniently early +in the day.</p> + +<p>As this sad and sacred edifice cannot justly be +considered as a public building, the elevation of +the tri-coloured flag upon it every fête-day might, +I think, have been spared.</p> + +<p>Another, and a very different novelty, is the +new flower-market, that is now kept under the +walls and columns of the majestic church of La +Madeleine. This beautiful collection of flowers +appears to me to produce from its situation a very +singular effect: the relative attributes of art and +nature are reversed;—for here, art seems sublime, +vast, and enduring; while nature is small, fragile, +and perishing. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">225</a></span></p> + +<p>It has sometimes happened to me, after looking +at a work of art which raised my admiration to +enthusiasm, that I have next sought some marvellous +combination of mountain and valley, rock +and river, forest and cataract, and felt as I gazed +on them something like shame at remembering +how nearly I had suffered the work of man to +produce an equal ecstasy. But here, when I +raised my eyes from the little flimsy crowd of +many-coloured blossoms to the simple, solemn +pomp of that long arcade, with its spotless purity +of tint and its enduring majesty of graceful +strength, I felt half inclined to scorn myself and +those around me for being so very much occupied +by the roses, pinks, and mignonette spread out +before it.</p> + +<p>Laying aside, however, all philosophical reflections +on its locality, this new flower-market is a +delightful acquisition to the Parisian <i>petite maîtresse</i>. +It was a long expedition to visit the +<i>marché aux fleurs</i> on the distant quay near Notre +Dame; and though its beauty and its fragrance +might well repay an hour or two stolen from the +pillow, the sweet decorations it offered to the +boudoir must have been oftener selected by the +<i>maître d'hôtel</i> or the <i>femme de chambre</i> than by +the fair lady herself. But now, three times in +the week we may have the pleasure of seeing +numbers of graceful females in that piquant species +of dishabille, which, uniting an equal portion of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">226</a></span> +careful coquetry and saucy indifference, gives to +the morning attire of a pretty, elegant, Frenchwoman, +an air so indescribably attractive.</p> + +<p>Followed by a neat <i>soubrette</i>, such figures may +now be often seen in the flower-market of the +Madeleine before the brightness of the morning +has faded either from their eyes, or the blossoms +they so love to gaze upon. The most ordinary +linen gown, made in the form of a wrapper—the +hair <i>en papillote</i>—the plain straw-bonnet drawn +forward over the eyes, and the vast shawl enveloping +the whole figure, might suffice to make +many an <i>élégante</i> pace up and down the fragrant +alley incognita, did not the observant eye remark +that a veil of rich lace secured the simple bonnet +under the chin—that the shawl was of cashmere—and +that the little hand, when ungloved to enjoy +the touch of a myrtle or an orange blossom, was +as white as either.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXVI.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Delicacy in France and in England.—Causes of the difference +between them.</p> + +<p>There is nothing perhaps which marks the +national variety of manners between the French +and the English more distinctly than the different +estimate they form of what is delicate or indelicate, +modest or immodest, decent or indecent: +nor does it appear to me that all the intimacy of +intercourse which for the last twenty years has +subsisted between the two nations has greatly +lessened this difference.</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, I believe that it is more superficial +than many suppose it to be; and that it arises +rather from contingent circumstances, than from +any original and native difference in the capability +of refinement in the two nations.</p> + +<p>Among the most obvious of these varieties of +manner, is the astounding freedom with which +many things are alluded to here in good society, +the slightest reference to which is in our country +banished from even the most homely class. It +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">228</a></span> +seems that the opinion of Martine is by no means +peculiar to herself, and that it is pretty generally +thought that</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"Quand on se fait entendre, on parle toujours bien."</p> + +<p>In other ways, too, it is impossible not to allow +that there exists in France a very perceptible +want of refinement as compared to England. +No Englishman, I believe, has ever returned from +a visit to Paris without adding his testimony to +this fact; and notwithstanding the Gallomania so +prevalent amongst us, all acknowledge that, however +striking may be the elegance and grace of +the higher classes, there is still a national want +of that uniform delicacy so highly valued by all +ranks, above the very lowest, with us. Sights are +seen and inconveniences endured with philosophy, +which would go nigh to rob us of our wits in +July, and lead us to hang ourselves in November.</p> + +<p>To a fact so well known, and so little agreeable +in the detail of its examination, it would be worse +than useless to draw your attention, were it not +that there is something curious in tracing the +manner in which different circumstances, seemingly +unconnected, do in reality hang together and +form a whole.</p> + +<p>The time certainly has been, when it was the +fashion in England, as it is now in France, to call +things, as some one coarsely expresses it, <i>by their +right names</i>; very grave proof of which might +be found even in sermons—and from thence downwards +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">229</a></span> +through treatises, essays, poems, romances, +and plays.</p> + +<p>Were we indeed to form our ideas of the tone +of conversation in England a century ago from +the familiar colloquy found in the comedies then +written and acted, we must acknowledge that we +were at that time at a greater distance from the +refinement we now boast, than our French neighbours +are at present.</p> + +<p>I do not here refer to licentiousness of morals, +or the coarse avowal of it; but to a species of +indelicacy which might perhaps have been quite +compatible with virtue, as the absence of it is +unhappily no security against vice.</p> + +<p>The remedy of this has proceeded, if I mistake +not, from causes much more connected with the +luxurious wealth of England, than with the severity +of her virtue. You will say, perhaps, that I +have started off to an immense distance from the +point whence I set out; but I think not—for both +in France and England I find abundant reason to +believe that I am right in tracing this remarkable +difference between the two countries, less to natural +disposition or character, than to the accidental +facilities for improvement possessed by the one +people, and not by the other.</p> + +<p>It would be very easy to ascertain, by reference +to the various literary records I have named, that +the improvement in English delicacy has been +gradual, and in very just proportion to the increase +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">230</a></span> +of her wealth, and the fastidious keeping +out of sight of everything that can in any way +annoy the senses.</p> + +<p>When we cease to hear, see, and smell things +which are disagreeable, it is natural that we should +cease to speak of them; and it is, I believe, quite +certain that the English take more pains than any +other people in the world that the senses—those +conductors of sensation from the body to the soul—shall +convey to the spirit as little disagreeable intelligence +of what befalls the case in which it +dwells, as possible. The whole continent of +Europe, with the exception of some portion of +Holland perhaps, (which shows a brotherly affinity +to us in many things,) might be cited for its inferiority +to England in this respect. I remember +being much amused last year, when landing at +Calais, at the answer made by an old traveller to +a novice who was making his first voyage.</p> + +<p>"What a dreadful smell!" said the uninitiated +stranger, enveloping his nose in his pocket-handkerchief.</p> + +<p>"It is the smell of the continent, sir," replied +the man of experience. And so it was.</p> + +<p>There are parts of this subject which it is quite +impossible to dwell upon, and which unhappily +require no pen to point them out to notice. These, +if it were possible, I would willingly leave more +in the dark than I find them. But there are +other circumstances, all arising from the comparative +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">231</a></span> +poverty of the people, which tend to produce, +with a most obvious dependency of thing on +thing, that deficiency of refinement of which I am +speaking.</p> + +<p>Let any one examine the interior construction +of a Paris dwelling of the middle class, and compare +it to a house prepared for occupants of the +same rank in London. It so happens that everything +appertaining to decoration is to be had <i>à bon +marché</i> at Paris, and we therefore find every article +of the ornamental kind almost in profusion. +Mirrors, silk hangings, or-molu in all forms; +china vases, alabaster lamps, and timepieces, +in which the onward step that never returns is +marked with a grace and prettiness that conceals +the solemnity of its pace,—all these are in abundance; +and the tenth part of what would be considered +necessary to dress up a common lodging +in Paris, would set the London fine lady in this +respect upon an enviable elevation above her neighbours.</p> + +<p>But having admired their number and elegant +arrangement, pass on and enter the ordinary bed-rooms—nay, +enter the kitchens too, or you will +not be able to judge how great the difference is +between the two residences.</p> + +<p>In London, up to the second floor, and often +to the third, water is forced, which furnishes an +almost unlimited supply of that luxurious article, +to be obtained with no greater trouble to the servants +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">232</a></span> +than would be required to draw it from a +tea-urn. In one kitchen of every house, generally +in two, and often in three, the same accommodation +is found; and when, in opposition to this, it is +remembered that very nearly every family in Paris +receives this precious gift of nature doled out by +two buckets at a time, laboriously brought to them +by porters, clambering in <i>sabots</i>, often up the same +stairs which lead to their drawing-rooms, it can +hardly be supposed that the use of it is as liberal +and unrestrained as with us.</p> + +<p>Against this may be placed fairly enough the +cheapness and facility of the access to the public +baths. But though personal ablutions may thus +be very satisfactorily performed by those who do +not rigorously require that every personal comfort +should be found at home, yet still the want of +water, or any restraint upon the freedom with +which it is used, is a vital impediment to that +perfection of neatness, in every part of the establishment, +which we consider as so necessary to +our comfort.</p> + +<p>Much as I admire the Church of the Madeleine, +I conceive that the city of Paris would have been +infinitely more benefited, had the sums expended +upon it been used for the purpose of constructing +pipes for the conveyance of water to private dwellings, +than by all the splendour received from the +beauty of this imposing structure.</p> + +<p>But great and manifold as are the evils entailed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">233</a></span> +by the scarcity of water in the bed-rooms and +kitchens of Paris, there is another deficiency greater +still, and infinitely worse in its effects. The +want of drains and sewers is the great defect of +all the cities in France; and a tremendous defect +it is. That people who from their first breath of +life have been obliged to accustom their senses +and submit without a struggle to the sufferings +this evil entails upon them,—that people so circumstanced +should have less refinement in their +thoughts and words than ourselves, I hold to be +natural and inevitable. Thus, you see, I have +come round like a preacher to his text, and have +explained, as I think, very satisfactorily, what I +mean by saying that the indelicacy which so +often offends us in France does not arise from +any natural coarseness of mind, but is the unavoidable +result of circumstances, which may, and +doubtless will change, as the wealth of the country +and its familiarity with the manners of England +increases.</p> + +<p>This withdrawing from the perception of the +senses everything that can annoy them,—this +lulling of the spirit by the absence of whatever +might awaken it to a sensation of pain,—is probably +the last point to which the ingenuity of man +can reach in its efforts to embellish existence.</p> + +<p>The search after pleasure and amusement certainly +betokens less refinement than this sedulous +care to avoid annoyance; and it may be, that as +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">234</a></span> +we have gone farthest of all modern nations in +this tender care of ourselves, so may we be the +first to fall from our delicate elevation into that +receptacle of things past and gone which has +engulfed old Greece and Rome. Is it thus that +the Reform Bill, and all the other horrible Bills +in its train, are to be interpreted?</p> + +<p>As to that other species of refinement which +belongs altogether to the intellect, and which, if +less obvious to a passing glance, is more deep and +permanent in its dye than anything which relates +to manners only, it is less easy either to think +or to speak with confidence. France and England +both have so long a list of mighty names +that may be quoted on either side to prove their +claim to rank high as literary contributors to +refinement, that the struggle as to which ranks +highest can only be fairly settled by both parties +agreeing that each country has a fair right +to prefer what they have produced themselves. +But, alas! at the present moment, neither can +have great cause to boast. What is good, is +overpowered and stifled by what is bad. The +uncontrolled press of both countries has thrown +so much abominable trash upon literature during +the last few years, that at present it might be +difficult to say whether general reading would be +most dangerous to the young and the pure in +England or in France.</p> + +<p>That the Hugo school has brought more nonsense +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">235</a></span> +with its mischief, is, I think, clear: but it is +not impossible that this may act as an antidote +to its own poison. It is a sort of humbug assumption +of talent which will pass out of fashion as +quickly as Morrison's pills. We have nothing +quite so silly as this; but much I fear that, as it +concerns our welfare as a nation, we have what +is more deeply dangerous.</p> + +<p>As to what is moral and what is not so, plain +as at first sight the question seems to be, there is +much that is puzzling in it. In looking over a +volume of "Adèle et Théodore" the other day,—a +work written expressly "<i>sur l'éducation</i>," and by +an author that we must presume meant honestly +and spoke sincerely,—I found this passage:—</p> + +<p>"Je ne connais que trois romans véritablement +moraux;—Clarisse, le plus beau de tous; Grandison, +et Pamela. Ma fille les lira en Anglais lorsqu'elle +aura dix-huit ans."</p> + +<p>The venerable Grandison, though by no means +<i>sans tache</i>, I will let pass: but that any mother +should talk of letting her daughter of "dix-huit +ans" read the others, is a mystery difficult to comprehend, +especially in a country where the young +girls are reared, fostered, and sheltered from every +species of harm, with the most incessant and sedulous +watchfulness. I presume that Madame de Genlis +conceived that, as the object and moral purpose +of these works were good, the revolting coarseness +with which some of their most powerful passages +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">236</a></span> +are written could not lead to evil. But this is a +bold and dangerous judgment to pass when the +question relates to the studies of a young girl.</p> + +<p>I think we may see symptoms of the feeling +which would produce such a judgment, in the +tone of biting satire with which Molière attacks +those who wished to banish what might "faire +insulte à la pudeur des femmes." Spoken as he +makes Philaminte speak it, we cannot fail to laugh +at the notion: yet ridicule on the same subject +would hardly be accepted, even from Sheridan, as +jesting matter with us.</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1"> +"Mais le plus beau projet de notre académie,</p> +<p>Une entreprise noble, et dont je suis ravie,</p> +<p>Un dessein plein de gloire, et qui sera vanté</p> +<p>Chez tous les beaux-esprits de la postérité,</p> +<p>C'est le retranchement de ces syllabes sales</p> +<p>Qui dans les plus beaux mots produisent des scandales;</p> +<p>Ces jouets éternels des sots de tous les temps,</p> +<p>Ces fades lieux communs de nos méchans plaisans;</p> +<p>Ces sources d'un amas d'équivoques infâmes</p> +<p>Dont on vient faire insulte à la pudeur des femmes."</p> +</div> + +<p>Such an academy might be a very comical institution, +certainly; but the duties it would have to +perform would not suffer a professor's place to become +a sinecure in France.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXVII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">237</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Objections to quoting the names of private individuals.—Impossibility +of avoiding Politics.—<i>Parceque</i> and <i>Quoique</i>.—Soirée +Antithestique.</p> + +<p>It would be a pleasure to me to give you the +names of many persons with whom I have become +acquainted in Paris, and I should like to describe +exactly the <i>salons</i> in which I met them; but a +whole host of proprieties forbid this. Where individuals +are so well known to fame as to render +the echoing of their names a matter of ordinary +recurrence, I can of course feel no scruple in repeating +the echo—one reverberation more can do +no harm: but I will never be the first to name +any one, either for praise or for blame, beyond +the sanctuary of their own circle.</p> + +<p>I must therefore restrict myself to the giving +you the best general idea I can of the tone and +style of what I have seen and heard; and if I avail +myself of the conversations I have listened to, it +shall be in such a manner as to avoid the slightest +approach to personal allusion.</p> + +<p>This necessary restraint, however, is not submitted +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">238</a></span> +to without regret: it must rob much of +what I would wish to repeat of the value of authority; +and when I consider how greatly at variance +my impressions are on many points to some which +have been publicly proclaimed by others, I feel +that I deserve some praise for suppressing names +which would stamp my statements with a value +that neither my unsupported assertions, nor those +of any other traveller, can be supposed to bear. +Those who best know what I lose by this will +give me credit for it; and I shall be sufficiently +rewarded for my forbearance if it afford them a +proof that I am not unworthy the flattering kindness +I have received.</p> + +<p>We all declare ourselves sick of politics, and a +woman's letters, at least, ought if possible to be +free from this wearily pervading subject: but the +describing a human being, and omitting to mention +the heart and the brain, would not leave the analysis +more defective, than painting the Parisians +at this moment without permitting their politics +to appear in the picture.</p> + +<p>The very air they breathe is impregnated with +politics. Were all words expressive of party distinctions +to be banished from their language—were +the curse of Babel to fall upon them, and no man +be able to discourse with his neighbour,—still political +feeling would find itself an organ whereby to +express its workings. One man would wear a +pointed hat, another a flat one; one woman +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">239</a></span> +would be girt with a tri-coloured sash, and another +with a white one. Some exquisites would be +closely buttoned to the chin, while the lapels of +others would open wide in all the expansive freedom +of republican unrestraint. One set would be +seen adorning Napoleon's pillar with trophies; another, +prostrate before the altar of the elder Bourbon's +monumental chapel; a third, marshalling +themselves under the bloody banner of Robespierre +to the tune of "Dansons la Carmagnole;" whilst a +fourth, by far the most numerous, would be brushing +their national uniforms, attending to their +prosperous shops, and giving a nod of good-fellowship +every time his majesty the king passes by.</p> + +<p>Some friends of mine entered a shop the other +day to order some article of furniture. While +they remained there, a royal carriage passed, and +one of the party said—</p> + +<p>"It is the queen, I believe?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," replied the <i>ébéniste</i>, "it is the lady +that it pleases us to call the queen. We may certainly +call her so if we like it, for we made her +ourselves; and if we find it does not answer, we +shall make another.—May I send you home this +table, sir?..."</p> + +<p>When politics are thus lightly mixed up with +all things, how can the subject be wholly avoided +without destroying the power of describing anything +as we find it?</p> + +<p>Such being the case, I cannot promise that all +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">240</a></span> +allusion to the subject shall be banished from my +letters; but it shall be made as little predominant +as possible. Could I indeed succeed in transferring +the light tone in which these weighty matters are +generally discussed to the account I wish to give +you of them, I need not much fear that I should +weary you.</p> + +<p>Whether it be essentially in the nature of the +people, or only a transitory feature of the times, I +know not; but nothing strikes me so forcibly as +the airy, gay indifference with which subjects are +discussed on which hang the destinies of the world. +The most acute—nay, often the most profound +remarks are uttered in a tone of badinage; and +the probabilities of future events, vital to the interests +of France, and indeed of Europe, are calculated +with as idle an air, and with infinitely +more <i>sang froid</i>, than the chances at a game of +<i>rouge et noir</i>.</p> + +<p>Yet, behind this I suspect that there is a good +deal of sturdy determination in all parties, and it +will be long ere France can be considered as one +whole and united people. Were the country +divided into two, instead of into three factions, +it is probable that the question of which was to +prevail would be soon brought to an issue; but as +it is, they stand much like the uncles and nieces +in the Critic, each keeping the other two in check.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile this temporary division of strength +is unquestionably very favourable to the present +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">241</a></span> +government; in addition to which, they derive +much security from the averseness which all feel, +excepting the naughty boys and hungry desperadoes, +to the disturbance of their present tranquillity. +It is evident that those who do not belong +to the triumphant majority are disposed for the +most part to wait a more favourable opportunity +of hostilely and openly declaring themselves; and +it is probable that they will wait long. They +know well, and are daily reminded of it, that all +the power and all the strength that possession can +give are vested in the existing dynasty; and +though much deeply-rooted feeling exists that is +inimical to it, yet so many of all parties are firmly +united to prevent farther anarchy and revolution, +that the throne of Louis-Philippe perhaps rests on +as solid a foundation as that of any monarch in +Europe: the fear of renewed tumult acts like the +key-stone of an arch, keeping firm, sound, and +in good condition, what would certainly fall to +pieces without it.</p> + +<p>In addition to this wholesome fear of pulling their +own dwellings about their ears, there is also another +fear that aids greatly in producing the same +result. Many of the riotous youths who so essentially +assisted in creating the confusion which +ended in uncrowning one king and crowning another, +are, as far as I can understand, quite as well +disposed to make a row now as they were then: +but they know that if they do, they will most incontestably +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">242</a></span> +be whipped for it; and therefore, +though they pout a little in private, they are, +generally speaking, very orderly in public. Every +one, not personally interested in the possible result +of another uproar, must rejoice at this improvement +in discipline. The boys of France +must now submit to give way before her men; +and as long as this lasts, something like peace +and prosperity may be hoped for.</p> + +<p>Yet it cannot be denied, I think, that among +these prudent men—these doctrinaires who now +hold the high places, there are many who, "with +high thoughts, such as Lycurgus loved," still dream +of a commonwealth; or that there are others who +have not yet weaned their waking thoughts from +meditations on faith, right, and loyalty. But nevertheless, +all unite in thinking that they had better +"let things be," than risk making them worse.</p> + +<p>Nothing is more common than to hear a conversation +end by a cordial and unanimous avowal +of this prudent and sagacious sentiment, which +began by an examination of general principles, +and the frank acknowledgment of opinions which +would certainly lead to a very different conclusion.</p> + +<p>It is amusing enough to remark how these advocates +for expediency contrive each of them to +find reasons why things had better remain as they +are, while all these reasons are strongly tinted by +their various opinions.</p> + +<p>"Charles Dix," says a legitimate in principle, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">243</a></span> +but a <i>juste-milieu</i> man in practice,—"Charles +Dix has abdicated the throne, which otherwise +must unquestionably be his by indefeasible right. +His heir-apparent has followed the example. The +country was in no state to be governed by a child; +and what then was left for us, but to take a king +from the same race which so for many ages has +possessed the throne of France. <i>Louis-Philippe est +roi</i>, <span class="smcap">parcequ</span>'<i>il est Bourbon</i>."</p> + +<p>"Pardonnez-moi," replies another, who, if he +could manage it without disturbing the tranquillity +about him, would take care to have it understood +that nothing more legitimate than an elective +monarchy could be ever permitted in France,—"Pardonnez-moi, +mon ami; <i>Louis-Philippe est +roi</i>, <span class="smcap">quoiqu</span>'<i>il est Bourbon</i>."</p> + +<p>These two parties of the <i>Parceques</i> and the +<i>Quoiques</i>, in fact, form the great bulwarks of King +Philippe's throne; for they both consist of experienced, +practical, substantial citizens, who having +felt the horrors of anarchy, willingly keep their +particular opinions in abeyance rather than hazard +a recurrence of it. They, in truth, form between +them the genuine <i>juste-milieu</i> on which the present +government is balanced.</p> + +<p>That there is more of the practical wisdom of +expediency than of the dignity of unbending principle +in this party, can hardly be denied. They +are "wiser in their generation than the children +of light;" but it is difficult, "seeing what we have +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">244</a></span> +seen, seeing what we see," to express any heavy +sentence of reprobation upon a line of conduct +which ensures, for the time at least, the lives and +prosperity of millions. They tell me that my +friend the Vicomte has sapped my legitimate principles; +but I deny the charge, though I cannot +deliberately wish that confusion should take the +place of order, or that the desolation of a civil +war should come to deface the aspect of prosperity +that it is so delightful to contemplate.</p> + +<p>This discrepancy between what is right and +what is convenient—this wavering of principle +and of action, is the inevitable consequence of +repeated political convulsions. When the times +become out of joint, the human mind can with +difficulty remain firm and steadfast. The inconceivable +variety of wild and ever-changing speculations +which have long overborne the voice of +established belief and received authority in this +country, has brought the principles of the people +into a state greatly resembling that of a wheel radiated +with every colour of the rainbow, but which +by rapid movement is left apparently without any +colour at all.</p> + +<p>Our last <i>soirée</i> was at the house of a lady who +takes much interest in showing me "le Paris +d'aujourd'hui," as she calls it. "Chère dame!" +she exclaimed as I entered, "I have collected <i>une +société délicieuse</i> for you this evening."</p> + +<p>She had met me in the ante-room, and, taking +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">245</a></span> +my arm within hers, led me into the <i>salon</i>. It +was already filled with company, the majority of +which were gentlemen. Having found room for us +on a sofa, and seated herself next to me, she said—</p> + +<p>"I will present whomsoever you choose to +know; but before I bring anybody up, I must +explain who they all are."</p> + +<p>I expressed my gratitude, and she began:—"That +tall gentleman is a great republican, and +one of the most respectable that we have left of +the <i>clique</i>. The party is very nearly worn out +among the <i>gens comme il faut</i>. His father, however, +is of the same party, and still more violent, I +believe, than himself. Heaven knows what they +would be at!... But they are both deputies, and +if they died to-morrow, would have, either father +or son, a very considerable mob to follow them to +Père Lachaise; not to mention the absolute necessity +which I am sure there would be to have +troops out: c'est toujours quelque chose, n'est-ce +pas? I know that you hate them all—and, to say +truth, so do I too;—mais, chère amie! qu'est-ce +que cela fait? I thought you would like to see +them: they really begin to get very scarce in +<i>salons</i>."</p> + +<p>I assured her that she was quite right, and that +nothing in the whole Jardin des Plantes could +amuse me better.</p> + +<p>"Ah ça!" she rejoined, laughing; "voilà ce +que c'est d'être raisonnable. Mais regardez ce +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">246</a></span> +beau garçon leaning against the chimneypiece. +He is one of <i>les fidèles sans tache</i>. Is he not +handsome? I have him at all my parties; and +even the ministers' ladies declare that he is perfectly +charming."</p> + +<p>"And that little odd-looking man in black," +said I, "who is he?... What a contrast!"</p> + +<p>"N'est-ce pas? Do they not group well together? +That is just the sort of thing I like—it +amuses everybody: besides, I assure you, he is a +very remarkable person,—in short, it is M——, +the celebrated atheist. He writes for the ——. +But the Institute won't have him: however, he is +excessively talked of—and that is everything.... +Then I have two peers, both of them highly +distinguished. There is M. de ——, who, you +know, is King Philippe's right hand; and the gentleman +sitting down just behind him is the dear +old Duc de ——, who lived ages in exile with +Louis Dix-huit.... That person almost at your +elbow, talking to the lady in blue, is the Comte +de P——, a most exemplary Catholic, who always +followed Charles Dix in all religious processions. +He was half distracted, poor man! at the last revolution; +but they say he is going to dine with +King Philippe next week: I long to ask him if +it is true, but I am afraid, for fear he should be +obliged to answer 'Yes;'—that would be so embarrassing!... +Oh, by the way, that is a peer that +you are looking at now;—he has refused to sit +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">247</a></span> +on the trial.... Now, have I not done <i>l'impossible</i> +for you?"</p> + +<p>I thanked her gratefully, and as I knew I could +not please her better than by showing the interest +I took in her menagerie, I inquired the name +of a lady who was talking with a good deal of +vehemence at the opposite side of the room.</p> + +<p>"Oh! that's a person that I always call my +'<i>dame de l'Empire</i>.' Her husband was one of +Napoleon's creations; and Josephine used to amuse +herself without ceasing by making her talk—her +language and accent are <i>impayables</i>!"</p> + +<p>"And that pretty woman in the corner?"</p> + +<p>"Ah! ... she is charming!... It is Madame +V——, daughter of the celebrated Vicomte +de ——, so devoted, you know, to the royal cause. +But she is lately married to one of the present +ministers—quite a love-match; which is an innovation, +by the way, more hard to pardon in France +than the introduction of a new dynasty. Mais +c'est égal—they are all very good friends again.... +Now, tell me whom I shall introduce to you?"</p> + +<p>I selected the heroine of the love-match; who +was not only one of the prettiest creatures I ever +saw, but so lively, intelligent, and agreeable, that +I have seldom passed a pleasanter hour than that +which followed the introduction. The whole of +this heterogeneous party seemed to mix together +with the greatest harmony; the only cold glance +I saw given being from the gentleman designated +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">248</a></span> +as "King Philippe's right hand," towards the tall +republican deputy of whose funeral my friend had +predicted such honours. The <i>dame de l'Empire</i> +was indulging in a lively flirtation with one of the +peers <i>sans tache</i>; and I saw the fingers of the +exemplary Catholic, who was going to dine with +King Philippe, in the <i>tabatière</i> of the celebrated +atheist. I then remembered that this was one of +the <i>soirées antithestiques</i> so much in fashion.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXVIII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">249</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +New Publications.—M. de Lamartine's "Souvenirs, Impressions, +Pensées, et Paysages."—Tocqueville and Beaumont.—New +American regulation.—M. Scribe.—Madame +Tastu.—Reception of different Writers in society.</p> + +<p>Though among the new publications sent to +me for perusal I have found much to fatigue and +disgust me, as must indeed be inevitable for any +one accustomed for some scores of years to nourish +the heart and head with the literature of the "<i>bon +vieux temps</i>"—which means, in modern phrase, +everything musty, rusty, rococo, and forgotten,—I +have yet found some volumes which have delighted +me greatly.</p> + +<p>M. de Lamartine's "Souvenirs, Impressions, +Pensées, et Paysages" in the East, is a work +which appears to me to stand solitary and alone +in the world of letters. There is certainly nothing +like it, and very little that can equal it, in my +estimation, either as a collection of written landscapes +or as a memorial of poetical feeling, just +sentiment, and refined taste.</p> + +<p>His descriptions may perhaps have been, in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">250</a></span> +some rare instances, equalled in mere graphic +power by others; but who has painted anything +which can excite an interest so profound, or an +elevation of the fancy so lofty and so delightful?</p> + +<p>Alas! that the scenes he paints should be so +utterly beyond one's reach! How little, how +paltry, how full of the vulgar interests of this +"working-day world," do all the other countries +of the earth appear after reading this book, when +compared to Judea! But there are few who +could visit it as Lamartine has done,—there are +very few capable of feeling as he felt—and none, +I think, of describing as he describes. His words +live and glow upon the paper; he pours forth +sunshine and orient light upon us,—we hear the +gale whispering among the palm-trees, see Jordan's +rapid stream rushing between its flowery +banks, and feel that the scene to which he has +transported us is holy ground.</p> + +<p>The exalted tone of his religious feelings, and +the poetic fervour with which he expresses them, +might almost lead one to believe that he was inspired +by the sacred air he breathed. It seems +as if he had found the harps which were hung up +of old upon the trees, and tuned them anew to +sing of the land of David; he has "beheld the +beauty of the Lord, and inquired in his temple," +and the result is exactly what it should be.</p> + +<p>The manner in which this most poetic of travellers, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">251</a></span> +while standing on the ruins of Tyre, speaks +of the desolation and despair that appear settling +upon the earth in these latter days, is impressive +beyond anything I know of modern date.</p> + +<p>Had France produced no other redeeming volumes +than these, there is enough within them to +overpower and extinguish the national literary +disgrace with which it has been reproached so +loudly; and it is a comfort to remember that this +work is as sure to live, as the literary labours of +the diabolic school are to perish. It is perhaps +good for us to read trash occasionally, that we +may learn to value at their worth such thoughts +as we find here; and while there are any left on +earth who can so think, so feel, and so write, our +case is not utterly hopeless.</p> + +<p>Great, indeed, is the debt that we owe to an +author like this, who, seizing upon the imagination +with power unlimited, leads it only into scenes +that purify and exalt the spirit. It is a tremendous +power, that of taking us how and where +he will, which is possessed by such an author as +this. When it is used for evil, it resembles fearfully +the action of a fiend, tempting, dragging, +beckoning, cajoling to destruction: but when it +is for good, it is like an angel's hand leading us to +heaven.</p> + +<p>I intended to have spoken to you of many other +works which have pleased me; but I really at this +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">252</a></span> +moment experience the strangest sort of embarrassment +imaginable in referring to them. Many +agreeable new books are lying about before me; +but while my head is so full of Lamartine and +the Holy Land, everything seems to produce on +me the effect of platitude and littleness.</p> + +<p>I must, however, conquer this so far as to tell +you that you ought to read both Tocqueville and +Beaumont on the United States. By the way, I +am assured that the Americans declare themselves +determined to change their line of conduct altogether +respecting the national manner of receiving +European sketches of themselves. This new law +is to embrace three clauses. The first will enforce +the total exclusion, from henceforth and for +evermore, of all European strangers from their +American homes; the second will recommend +that all citizens shall abstain from reading anything, +in any language written, or about to be +written, concerning them and their affairs; and +the third, in case the other two should fail, seems +to take the form of a vow, protesting that they +never will storm, rave, scold, or care about anything +that anybody can say of them more. If +this passes during the presidentship of General +Jackson, it will immortalize his reign more than +paying off the national debt.</p> + +<p>Having thus, somehow or other, slipped from +the Holy Land to the United States of America, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">253</a></span> +I feel sufficiently subdued in spirit to speak of +lesser things than Lamartine's "Pilgrimage."</p> + +<p>On one point, indeed, a sense of justice urges +me, when on the subject of modern productions, +to warn you against the error of supposing that +all the new theatrical pieces, which come forth +here as rapidly and as brilliantly as the blossoms +of the gum cistus, and which fade almost as soon, +are of the nature and tendency of those I have +mentioned as belonging to the Victor Hugo school. +On the contrary, I have seen many, and read more, +of these little comedies and vaudevilles, which are +not only free from every imputation of mischief, +but absolutely perfect in their kind.</p> + +<p>The person whose name is celebrated far above +all others for this species of composition, is M. +Scribe; and were it not that his extraordinary +facility enables him to pour forth these pretty +trifles in such abundance as already to have assured +him a very large fortune, which offers an +excellent excuse in these <i>positif</i> times for him, +I should say that he would have done better had +he written less.</p> + +<p>He has shown on several occasions, as in +"L'Ambitieux," "Bertrand et Raton," &c. that he +can succeed in that most difficult of tasks, good +legitimate comedy, as well as in the lighter labour +of striking off a sparkling vaudeville. It is certain, +indeed, that, spite of all we say, and say in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">254</a></span> +some respects so justly, respecting the corrupted +taste of France at the present era, there never +was a time when her stage could boast a greater +affluence of delightful little pieces than at present.</p> + +<p>I really am afraid to enter more at large upon +this theme, from a literal <i>embarras de richesses</i>. +If I begin to name these pretty, lively trifles, I +shall run into a list much too long for your +patience: for though Scribe is still the favourite +as well as the most fertile source of these +delightful novelties, there are one or two others +who follow him at some little distance, and who +amongst them produce such a sum total of new +pieces in the year as would make an English +manager tremble to think of;—but here the chief +cost of bringing them out is drawn, not from the +theatrical treasury, but from the ever-fresh wit +and spirit of the performers.</p> + +<p>Such an author as Scribe is a national museum +of invention—a never-failing source of new enjoyment +to his lively countrymen, and he has probably +tasted the pleasures of a bright and lasting reputation +as fully as any author living. We are +already indebted to him for many charming importations; +and, thanks to the Yates talent, we +begin to be not unworthy of receiving such. If +we cannot have Shakspeare, Racine, and Molière +got up for us quite "in the grand style of former +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">255</a></span> +years," these bright, light, biting, playful, graceful +little pieces are by far the best substitutes for +them, while we wait with all the patience we can +for a new growth of players, who shall give honour +due to the next tragedy Miss Mitford may +bestow upon us.</p> + +<p>Another proof that it is not necessary to be +vicious in order to be in vogue at Paris, and +that purity is no impediment to success, is the +popularity of Madame Tastu's poetry. She writes +as a woman ought to write—with grace, feeling, +delicacy, and piety.</p> + +<p>Her literary efforts, however, are not confined +to the "flowery path of poesy;" though it is +impossible not to perceive that she lingers in it +with delight, and that when she leaves it, she +does so from no truant inclination to wander +elsewhere, but from some better impulse. Her +work entitled "Education Maternelle" would +prove a most valuable acquisition to English mothers +desirous themselves of giving early lessons +in French to their children. The pronunciation +and accentuation are marked in a manner greatly +to facilitate the task, especially to a foreigner; +whose greatest difficulty, when attempting to +teach the language without the aid of a native +master, is exactly what these initiatory lessons +are so well calculated to obviate.</p> + +<p>It is no small source of consolation and of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">256</a></span> +hope, at a period when a sort of universal epidemic +frenzy appears to have seized upon the +minds of men, leading them to advocate as good +that which all experience shows to be evil, and +to give specimens of dirty delirium that might +be collected in an hospital, by way of exalted +works of imagination,—it is full of hope and +consolation to find that, however rumour may +clamour forth tidings of these sad ravings whenever +they appear, fame still rests only with such +as really deserve it.</p> + +<p>Let a first-rate collector of literary lions at +Paris make it known that M. de Lamartine +would appear at her <i>soirée</i>, and the permission +to enter there would be sought so eagerly, that +before eleven o'clock there would not be standing-room +in her apartments, though they might +be as spacious as any the "belle ville" can show. +But let it be announced that the authors of any +of the obscene masques and mummings which +have disgraced the theatres of France would present +themselves, and depend upon it they would +find space sufficient to enact the part of Triboulet +at the moment when he exclaims in soliloquy,</p> + +<p class="poem">"Que je suis grand ici!"</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXIX.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">257</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Sunday in Paris.—Family Groups.—Popular Enjoyment.—Polytechnic +Students.—Their resemblance to the figure +of Napoleon.—Enduring attachment to the Emperor.—Conservative +spirit of the English Schools.—Sunday in +the Gardens of the Tuileries.—Religion of the Educated.—Popular +Opinion.</p> + +<p>Sunday is a delightful day in Paris—more so +than in any place I ever visited, excepting Francfort. +The enjoyment is so universal, and yet so +domestic; were I to form my idea of the national +character from the scenes passing before my eyes +on that day, instead of from books and newspapers, +I should say that the most remarkable features in +it, were conjugal and parental affection.</p> + +<p>It is rare to see either a man or a woman, of +an age to be wedded and parents, without their +being accompanied by their partner and their offspring. +The cup of light wine is drunk between +them; the scene that is sought for amusement +by the one is also enjoyed by the other; and +whether it be little or whether it be much that +can be expended on this day of jubilee, the man +and wife share it equally. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">258</a></span></p> + +<p>I have entered many churches during the hours +of the morning masses, in many different parts of +the town, and, as I have before stated, I have uniformly +found them extremely crowded; and though +I have never remarked any instances of that sort +of penitential devotion so constantly seen in the +churches of Belgium when the painfully extended +arms remind one of the Hindoo solemnities, the +appearance of earnest and devout attention to +what is going on is universal.</p> + +<p>It is not till after the grand mass is over that +the population pours itself out over every part of +the town, not so much to seek as to meet amusement. +And they are sure to find it; for not ten +steps can be taken in any direction without encountering +something that shall furnish food for +enjoyment of some kind or other.</p> + +<p>There is no sight in the world that I love better +than a numerous populace during their hours +of idleness and glee. When they assemble themselves +together for purposes of legislation, I confess +I do not greatly love or admire them; but +when they are enjoying themselves, particularly +when women and children share in the enjoyment, +they furnish a delightful spectacle—and +nowhere can it be seen to greater advantage than +in Paris. The nature of the people—the nature of +the climate—the very form and arrangement of +the city, are all especially favourable to the display +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">259</a></span> +of it. It is in the open air, under the blue vault +of heaven, before the eyes of thousands, that they +love to bask and disport themselves. The bright, +clear atmosphere seems made on purpose for them; +and whoever laid out the boulevards, the quays, +the gardens of Paris, surely remembered, as they +did so, how necessary space was for the assembling +together of her social citizens.</p> + +<p>The young men of the Polytechnic School +make a prominent feature in a Paris Sunday; for +it is only on the <i>jours de fête</i> that they are permitted +to range at liberty through the town: +but all occasions of this kind cause the streets +and public walks to swarm with young Napoleons.</p> + +<p>It is quite extraordinary to see how the result +of a strong principle or sentiment may show +itself externally on a large body of individuals, +making those alike, whom nature has made as +dissimilar as possible. There is not one of these +Polytechnic lads, the eldest of whom could hardly +have seen the light of day before Napoleon +had left the soil of France for ever,—there is +hardly one of them who does not more or less +remind one of the well-known figure and air of +the Emperor. Be they tall, be they short, be they +fat, be they thin, it is the same,—there is some +approach (evidently the result of having studied +their worshipped model closely in paintings, engravings, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">260</a></span> +bronzes, marbles, and Sèvres china,) to +that look and bearing which, till the most popular +tyrant that ever lived had made it as well +known as sunshine to the eyes of France, was +as little resembling to the ordinary appearance +and carriage of her citizens as possible.</p> + +<p>The tailor can certainly do much towards +making the exterior of one individual look like +the exterior of another; but he cannot do all +that we see in the mien of a Polytechnic scholar +that serves to recall the extraordinary man whose +name, after years of exile and of death, is decidedly +the most stirring that can be pronounced +in France. Busy, important, and most full of +human interest has been the period since his +downfall; yet his memory is as fresh among them +as if he had marched into the Tuileries triumphant +from one of his hundred victories but yesterday.</p> + +<p>O, if the sovereign people could but understand +as well as read!... And O that some +Christian spirit could be found who would interpret +to them, in such accents as they would listen +to, the life and adventures of Napoleon the Great! +What a deal of wisdom they might gain by it! +Where could be found a lesson so striking as this +to a people who are weary of being governed, and +desire, one and all, to govern themselves? With +precisely the same weariness, with precisely the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">261</a></span> +same desire, did this active, intelligent, and powerful +people throw off, some forty years ago, the +yoke of their laws and the authority of their king. +Then were they free as the sand of the desert—not +one individual atom of the mighty mass but +might have risen in the hurricane of that tempest +as high as the unbridled wind of his ambition could +carry him; and what followed? Why, they grew +sick to death of the giddy whirl, where each man +knocked aside his neighbour, and there was none +to say "Forbear!" Then did they cling, like +sinking souls in the act of drowning, to the first +bold man who dared to replace the yoke upon +their necks; they clung to him through years of +war that mowed down their ranks as a scythe +mows down the ripe corn, and yet they murmured +not. For years they suffered their young +sons to be torn from their sides while they still +hung to them with all the first fondness of youth, +and yet they murmured not;—for years they +lived uncheered by the wealth that commerce +brings, uncheered by any richer return of labour +than the scanty morsel that sustained their life +of toil, and yet they murmured not: for they +had once more a prince upon the throne—they +had once more laws, firmly administered, which +kept them from the dreaded horrors of anarchy; +and they clung to their tyrant prince, and his +strict and stern enactments, with a devotion of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">262</a></span> +gratitude and affection which speaks plainly enough +their lasting thankfulness to the courage which +was put forth in their hour of need to relieve +them from the dreadful burden of self-government.</p> + +<p>This gratitude and affection endures still—nothing +will ever efface it; for his military tyranny +is passed away, and the benefits which his colossal +power enabled him to bestow upon them remain, +and must remain as long as France endures. The +only means by which another sovereign may rival +Napoleon in popularity, is by rivalling him in +power. Were some of the feverish blood which +still keeps France in agitation to be drawn from +her cities to reinforce her military array, and +were a hundred thousand of the sons of France +marched off to restore to Italy her natural position +in Europe, power, glory, and popularity +would sustain the throne, and tranquillity be restored +to the people. Without some such discipline, +poor young France may very probably die +of a plethora. If she has not this, she must have +a government as absolute as that of Russia to +keep her from mischief: and that she will have +one or the other before long, I have not the +least doubt in the world; for there are many +very clever personages at and near the seat of +power who will not be slow to see or to do +what is needful. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">263</a></span></p> + +<p>Meanwhile this fine body of young men are, as +I understand, receiving an education calculated to +make them most efficient officers, whenever they +are called upon to serve. Unfortunately for the +reputation of the Polytechnic School, their names +were brought more forward than was creditable +to those who had the charge of them, during the +riots of 1830. But the government which the +men of France accepted from the hands of the +boys really appears to be wiser and better than +they had any right to expect from authority so +strangely constituted. The new government very +properly uses the strength given it, for the purpose +of preventing the repetition of the excesses to +which it owes its origin; and these fine lads are +now said to be in a state of very respectable discipline, +and to furnish no contemptible bulwark to +the throne.</p> + +<p>It is otherwise, however, as I hear, with most +of the bodies of young men collected together in +Paris for the purpose of education. The silly cant +of republicanism has got among them; and till this +is mended, continued little riotous outbreakings of +a naughty-boy spirit must be expected.</p> + +<p>One of the happiest circumstances in the situation +of poor struggling England at present is, +that her boys are not republican. On the contrary, +the rising spirit among us is decidedly conservative. +All our great schools are tory to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">264</a></span> +heart's core. The young English have been +roused, awakened, startled at the peril which +threatens the land of their fathers! The <i>penny +king</i> who has invaded us has produced on them +the effect usual on all invasions; and rather than +see him and his popish court succeed in conquering +England, they would rush from their forms +and their cloisters to repel him, shouting, "Alone +we'll do it, <span class="smcap">boys</span>!"—and they would do it, too, +even if they had no fathers to help them.</p> + +<p>But I have forgotten my Sunday holiday, while +talking about the gayest and happiest of those it +brings forth to decorate the town. Many a proud +and happy mother may on these occasions be seen +leaning on the arm of a son that she is very conscious +looks like an emperor; and many a pretty +creature, whom her familiarity, as well as her +features, proclaims to be a sister, shows in her +laughing eyes that the day which gives her smart +young brother freedom is indeed a <i>jour de fête</i> +for her.</p> + +<p>You will be weary of the Tuileries Gardens; but +I cannot keep out of them, particularly when talking +of a Paris Sunday, of whose prettiest groups +they are the rendezvous: the whole day's history +may be read in them. As soon as the gates are +open, figures both male and female, in dishabille +more convenient than elegant, may be seen walking +across them in every direction towards the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">265</a></span> +<i>sortie</i> which leads towards the quay, and thence +onwards to <i>Les Bains Vigier</i>. Next come the +after-breakfast groups: and these are beautiful. +Elegant young mothers in half-toilet accompany +their <i>bonnes</i>, and the pretty creatures committed +to their care, to watch for an hour the happy +gambols which the presence of the "chère maman" +renders seven times more gay than ordinary.</p> + +<div class="figcenter p6" style="width: 405px;"><a name="illo5" id="illo5"></a> +<img src="images/ill291.jpg" width="405" height="600" alt="Tuileries' Gardens, on Sunday." /> +<p class="s05">Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu.</p> +<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Tuileries Gardens, on Sunday.</span></p> +<p class="s05 caption">London, Published by Richard Bentley, 1835.</p> +</div> + +<p>I have watched such, repeatedly, with extreme +amusement; often attempting to read, but never +able to pursue the occupation for three-quarters +of a minute together, till they at last abandon it +altogether, and sit with the useless volume upon +their knee, complacently answering all the baby +questions that may be proposed to them, while +watching with the smiling satisfaction of well-pleased +maternity every attitude, every movement, +and every grimace of the darling miniatures +in which they see themselves, and perhaps +one dearer still.</p> + +<p>From about ten till one o'clock the gardens +swarm with children and their attendants: and +pretty enough they are, and amusing too, with +their fanciful dresses and their baby wilfulness. +Then comes the hour of early dinners: the nurses +and the children retreat; and were it possible that +any hour of the day could find a public walk in +Paris unoccupied, it would be this.</p> + +<p>The next change shows the gradual influx of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">266</a></span> +best bonnets,—pink, white, green, blue. Feathers +float onwards, and fresh flowers are seen around: +gay barouches rush down the Rues Castiglione and +Rivoli; cabs swing round every corner, all to deposit +their gay freight within the gardens. By +degrees, double, treble rows of chairs are occupied +on either side of every walk, while the whole +space between is one vast moving mass of pleasant +idleness.</p> + +<p>This lasts till five; and then, as the elegant +crowd withdraws, another, less graceful perhaps, +but more animated, takes its place. Caps succeed +to bonnets; and unchecked laughter, loud with +youth and glee, replaces the whispered gallantry, +the silent smile, and all the well-bred ways of +giving and receiving thoughts with as little disturbance +to the circumambient air as possible.</p> + +<p>From this hour to nightfall the multitude goes +on increasing; and did one not know that every +theatre, every guinguette, every boulevard, every +café in Paris were at the same time crammed +almost to suffocation, one might be tempted to +believe that the whole population had assembled +there to recreate themselves before the windows +of the king.</p> + +<p>Among the higher ranks the Sunday evening +at Paris is precisely the same as that of any other +day. There are the same number of <i>soirées</i> going +on, and no more; the same number of dinner-parties, just +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">267</a></span> +as much card-playing, just as much +dancing, just as much music, and just as much +going to the opera; but the other theatres are +generally left to the <i>endimanchés</i>.</p> + +<p>You must not, however, imagine that no religious +exercises are attended to among the rich +and noble because I have said nothing especially +about them on this point. On the contrary, I +have great reason to believe that it is not alone +the attractive eloquence of the popular preachers +which draws such multitudes of wealthy and +high-born females into the fashionable churches +of Paris; but that they go to pray as well as +to listen. Nevertheless, as to the general state +of religion amongst the educated classes in Paris, +it is quite as difficult to obtain information as it +is to learn with anything like tolerable accuracy +the average state of their politics. It is not +that there is the least reserve or apparent hanging +back when either subject is discussed; on +the contrary, all seem kindly eager to answer +every question, and impart to you all the information +it is possible to wish for: but the +variety of statements is inconceivable; and as I +have repeatedly listened to very strong and positive +assertions respecting the opinions of the majority, +from those in whose sincerity I have perfect +confidence, but which have been flatly contradicted +by others equally deserving of credit, I +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">268</a></span> +am led to suppose that in effect the public mind +is still wavering on both subjects. There is, in +fact, but one point upon which I truly and entirely +believe that an overwhelming majority exists,—and +this is in the aversion felt for any farther trial +of a republican form of government.</p> + +<p>The party who advocate the cause of democracy +do indeed make the most noise—it is ever +their wont to do so. Neither the Chamber of Deputies +nor the Chamber of Peers can assemble +nightly at a given spot to scream "Vive le Roi!" +nor are the quiet citizens, who most earnestly +wish to support the existing government, at all +more likely to leave their busy shops for this purpose +than the members of the two Chambers are +to quit their <i>hôtels</i>;—so that any attempt to judge +the political feelings of the people by the outcries +heard in the streets must of necessity lead to +error. Yet it is of such judgments, both at home +and abroad, that we hear the most.</p> + +<p>As to the real private feelings on the subject of +religion which exist among the educated portion +of the people, it is still more difficult to form an +opinion, for on this subject the strongest indications +are often declared to prove nothing. If +churches filled to overflowing be proof of national +piety, then are the people pious: and farther than +this, no looker-on such as myself should, I think, +attempt to go.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXX.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">269</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Madame Récamier.—Her Morning Parties.—Gérard's Picture +of Corinne.—Miniature of Madame de Staël.—M. +de Châteaubriand.—Conversation on the degree in which +the French Language is understood by Foreigners.—The +necessity of speaking French.</p> + +<p>Of all the ladies with whom I have become +acquainted in Paris, the one who appears to me +to be the most perfect specimen of an elegant +Frenchwoman is Madame Récamier,—the same +Madame Récamier that, I will not say how many +years ago, I remember to have seen in London, +the admired of all eyes: and, wonderful to say, +she is so still. Formerly I knew her only from +seeing her in public, where she was pointed out +to me as the most beautiful woman in Europe; +but now that I have the pleasure of her acquaintance, +I can well understand, though you who +know her only by the reputation of her early +beauty may not, how and why it is that fascinations +generally so evanescent are with her so +lasting. She is, in truth, the very model of all +grace. In person, manner, movement, dress, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">270</a></span> +voice, and language, she seems universally allowed +to be quite perfect; and I really cannot +imagine a better mode of giving a last finish to +a young lady's study of the graces, than by affording +her an opportunity of observing every +movement and gesture of Madame Récamier.</p> + +<p>She is certainly a monopolist of talents and +attractions which would suffice, if divided in ordinary +proportions, to furnish forth a host of +charming women. I never met with a Frenchman +who did not allow, that though his countrywomen +were charming from <i>agrémens</i> which +seem peculiarly their own, they have fewer faultless +beauties among them than may be found in +England; but yet, as they say, "Quand une +Française se mêle d'être jolie, elle est furieusement +jolie." This <i>mot</i> is as true in point of fact +as piquant in expression;—a beautiful Frenchwoman +is, perhaps, the most beautiful woman in +the world.</p> + +<p>The perfect loveliness of Madame Récamier +has made her "a thing to wonder at:" and now +that she has passed the age when beauty is at +its height, she is perhaps to be wondered at still +more; for I really doubt if she ever excited more +admiration than she does at present. She is +followed, sought, looked at, listened to, and, +moreover, beloved and esteemed, by a very large +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">271</a></span> +circle of the first society in Paris, among whom +are numbered some of the most illustrious literary +names in France.</p> + +<p>That her circle, as well as herself, is delightful, +is so generally acknowledged, that by adding +my voice to the universal judgment, I perhaps +show as much vanity, as gratitude for the privilege +of being admitted within it: but no one, I +believe, so favoured could, when speaking of the +society of Paris, omit so striking a feature of it +as the <i>salon</i> of Madame Récamier. She contrives +to make even the still-life around her partake of +the charm for which she is herself so remarkable, +and there is a fine and finished elegance in everything +about her that is irresistibly attractive: I +have often entered drawing-rooms almost capable +of containing her whole suite of apartments, and +found them infinitely less striking in their magnificence +than her beautiful little <i>salon</i> in the +Abbaye-aux-Bois.</p> + +<p>The rich draperies of white silk, the delicate +blue tint that mixes with them throughout the +apartment,—the mirrors, the flowers,—all together +give an air to the room that makes it accord +marvellously well with its fair inhabitant. One +might fancy that Madame Récamier herself was +for ever <i>vouée au blanc</i>, for no drapery falls +around her that is not of snowy whiteness—and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">272</a></span> +indeed the mixture of almost any colour would +seem like profanation to the exquisite delicacy +of her appearance.</p> + +<p>Madame Récamier admits morning visits from +a limited number of persons, whose names are +given to the servant attending in the ante-room, +every day from four till six. It was here I had +the pleasure of being introduced to M. de Châteaubriand, +and had afterwards the gratification +of repeatedly meeting him; a gratification that I +shall assuredly never forget, and for which I +would have willingly sacrificed one-half of the +fine things which reward the trouble of a journey +to Paris.</p> + +<p>The circle thus received is never a large one, +and the conversation is always general. The +first day that I and my daughters were there, +we found, I think, but two ladies, and about half +a dozen gentlemen, of whom M. de Châteaubriand +was one. A magnificent picture by Gérard, +boldly and sublimely conceived, and executed +in his very best manner, occupies one side +of the elegant little <i>salon</i>. The subject is Corinne, +in a moment of poetical excitement, a lyre in her +hand, and a laurel crown upon her head. Were +it not for the modern costume of those around +her, the figure must be mistaken for that of +Sappho: and never was that impassioned being, +the martyred saint of youthful lovers, portrayed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">273</a></span> +with more sublimity, more high poetic feeling, +or more exquisite feminine grace.</p> + +<p>The contemplation of this <i>chef-d'œuvre</i> naturally +led the conversation to Madame de Staël. +Her intimacy with Madame Récamier is as well +known as the biting reply of the former to an +unfortunate man, who having contrived to place +himself between them, exclaimed,—"Me voilà +entre l'esprit et la beauté!"</p> + +<p>To which bright sally he received for answer—"Sans +posséder ni l'un ni l'autre."</p> + +<p>My knowledge of this intimacy induced me +to take advantage of the occasion, and I ventured +to ask Madame Récamier if Madame de +Staël had in truth intended to draw her own +character in that of Corinne.</p> + +<p>"Assuredly ..." was the reply. "The soul of +Madame de Staël is fully developed in her portrait +of that of Corinne." Then turning to the +picture, she added, "Those eyes are the eyes of +Madame de Staël."</p> + +<p>She put a miniature into my hand, representing +her friend in all the bloom of youth, at an +age indeed when she could not have been known +to Madame Récamier. The eyes had certainly +the same dark beauty, the same inspired expression, +as those given to Corinne by Gérard. +But the artist had too much taste or too little +courage to venture upon any farther resemblance; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">274</a></span> +the thick lips and short fat chin of the real sibyl +being changed into all that is loveliest in female +beauty on the canvass.</p> + +<p>The apparent age of the face represented in +the miniature points out its date with tolerable +certainty; and it gives no very favourable idea of +the taste of the period; for the shock head of +crisped Brutus curls is placed on arms and bust +as free from drapery, though better clothed in +plumpness, than those of the Medicean Venus.</p> + +<p>As we looked first at one picture, then at +the other, and conversed on both, I was struck +with the fine forehead and eyes, delightful voice, +and peculiarly graceful turn of expression, of a +gentleman who sat opposite to me, and who joined +in this conversation.</p> + +<p>I remarked to Madame Récamier that few +romances had ever had the honour of being illustrated +by such a picture as this of Gérard, and +that, from many circumstances, her pleasure in +possessing it must be very great.</p> + +<p>"It is indeed," she replied: "nor is it my +only treasure of the kind—I am so fortunate as +to possess Girodet's original drawing from Atala, +the engraving from which you must often have +seen. Let me show you the original."</p> + +<p>We followed her to the dining-room, where this +very interesting drawing is placed. "You do not +know M. de Châteaubriand?" said she. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">275</a></span></p> + +<p>I replied that I had not that pleasure.</p> + +<p>"It is he who was sitting opposite to you in +the <i>salon</i>."</p> + +<p>I begged that she would introduce him to me; +and upon our returning to the drawing-room she +did so. The conversation was resumed, and most +agreeably—every one bore a part in it. Lamartine, +Casimir Delavigne, Dumas, Victor Hugo, +and some others, passed under a light but clever +and acute review. Our Byron, Scott, &c. followed; +and it was evident that they had been +read and understood. I asked M. de Châteaubriand +if he had known Lord Byron: he replied, +"Non;" adding, "Je l'avais précédé dans +la vie, et malheureusement il m'a précédé au +tombeau."</p> + +<p>The degree in which any country is capable +of fully appreciating the literature of another was +canvassed, and M. de Châteaubriand declared himself +decidedly of opinion that such appreciation +was always and necessarily very imperfect. Much +that he said on the subject appeared incontrovertibly +true, especially as respecting the slight and +delicate shadows of expression of which the subtile +grace so constantly seems to escape at the +first attempt to convert it into another idiom. +Nevertheless, I suspect that the majority of English +readers—I mean the English readers of +French—are more <i>au fait</i> of the original literature +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">276</a></span> +of France than M. de Châteaubriand supposes.</p> + +<p>The habit, so widely extended amongst us, of +reading this language almost from infancy, gives +us a greater familiarity with their idiom than he +is aware of. He doubted if we could relish +Molière, and named Lafontaine as one beyond +the reach of extra-Gallican criticism or enjoyment.</p> + +<p>I cannot agree to this, though I am not surprised +that such an idea should exist. Every English +person that comes to Paris is absolutely obliged +to speak French, almost whether they can or can +not. If they shrink from doing so, they can have +no hope of either speaking or being spoken to +at all. This is alone sufficient to account very +satisfactorily, I think, for any doubt which may +prevail as to the national proficiency in the language. +No Frenchman that is at all in the +habit of meeting the English in society but must +have his ears and his memory full of false concords, +false tenses, and false accents; and can we +wonder that he should set it down as a certain +fact, that they who thus speak cannot be said to +understand the language they so mangle? Yet, +plausible as the inference is, I doubt if it be +altogether just. Which of the most accomplished +Hellenists of either country would be found +capable of sustaining a familiar conversation in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">277</a></span> +Greek? The case is precisely the same; for I +have known very many whose power of tasting +the beauty of French writing amounted to the +most critical acuteness, who would have probably +been unintelligible had they attempted to converse +in the language for five minutes together; +whereas many others, who have perhaps had a +French valet or waiting-maid, may possess a passably +good accent and great facility of imitative +expression in conversation, who yet would be +puzzled how to construe with critical accuracy +the easiest passage in Rousseau.</p> + +<p>A very considerable proportion of the educated +French read English, and often appear to enter +very ably into the spirit of our authors; but +there is not one in fifty of these who will pronounce +a single word of the language in conversation. +Though they endure with a polite +gravity, perfectly imperturbable, the very drollest +blunders of which language is capable, they cannot +endure to run the risk of making blunders +in return. Everything connected with the externals +of good society is held as sacred by the +members of it; and if they shrink from offending +<i>la bienséance</i> by laughing at the mistakes of +others, they avoid, with at least an equal degree +of caution, the unpardonable offence of committing +any themselves.</p> + +<p>I do not believe that it would be possible for +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">278</a></span> +a French person to enter into conversation merely +for the pleasure of conversing, and not from +the pressure of absolute necessity, unless he were +certain, or at least believed himself to be so, +that he should express himself with propriety and +elegance. The idea of uttering the brightest or +the noblest thought that ever entered a human +head, in an idiom ridiculously broken, would, I +am sure, be accompanied with a feeling of repugnance +sufficient to tame the most animated +and silence the most loquacious Frenchman in +existence.</p> + +<p>It therefore falls wholly upon the English, in +this happy period of constant and intimate intercourse +between the nations, to submit to the surrender +of their vanity, to gratify their love for +conversation; blundering on in conscious defiance +of grammar and accent, rather than lose +the exceeding pleasure of listening in return to +the polished phrase, the graceful period, the epigrammatic +turn, which make so essential a part +of genuine high-bred French conversation.</p> + +<p>But the doubts expressed by M. de Châteaubriand +as to the possibility of the last and best +grace of French writing being fully appreciated +by foreigners, was not confined wholly to the +English,—the Germans appeared to share it with +us; and one who has been recently proclaimed as +the first of living German critics was quoted as +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">279</a></span> +having confounded in his style, names found +among the immortals of the French Pantheon, +with those of such as live and die; <i>Monsieur</i> +Fontaine, and <i>Monsieur</i> Bruyère, being expressions +actually extant in his writings.</p> + +<p>More than once, during subsequent visits to +Madame Récamier, I led her to speak of her lost +and illustrious friend. I have never been more +interested than while listening to all which this +charming woman said of Madame de Staël: every +word she uttered seemed a mixture of pain and +pleasure, of enthusiasm and regret. It is melancholy +to think how utterly impossible it is that +she should ever find another to replace her. She +seems to feel this, and to have surrounded herself +by everything that can contribute to keep the +recollection of what is for ever gone, fresh in her +memory. The original of the posthumous portrait +of Madame de Staël by Gérard, made so familiar to +all the world by engravings—nay, even by Sèvres +vases and tea-cups, hangs in her bed-room. The +miniature I have mentioned is always near her; +and the inspired figure of her Corinne, in which +it is evident that Madame Récamier traces a resemblance +to her friend beyond that of features +only, appears to be an object almost of veneration +as well as love.</p> + +<p>It is delightful to approach thus to a being +that I have always been accustomed to contemplate +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">280</a></span> +as something in the clouds. Admirable and +amiable as my charming new acquaintance is in +a hundred ways, her past intimacy and ever-enduring +affection for Madame de Staël have given +her a still higher interest in my eyes.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXXI.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">281</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Exhibition of Sèvres China at the Louvre.—Gobelins and +Beauvais Tapestry.—Legitimatist Father and Doctrinaire +Son.—Copies from the Medicean Gallery.</p> + +<p>We are just returned from an exhibition at the +Louvre; and a very splendid exhibition it is—though, +alas! but a poor consolation for the hidden +treasures of the picture-gallery. Several magnificent +rooms are now open for the display of +works in tapestry and Sèvres porcelain; and however +much we might have preferred seeing something +else there, it is impossible to deny that +these rooms contain many objects as wonderful +perhaps in their way as any that the higher +branches of art ever produced.</p> + +<p>The copy of Titian's portrait of his mistress, on +porcelain, and still more perhaps that of Raphaël's +"Virgin and St. John watching the sleep of the +infant Jesus," (the <i>Parce somnum rumpere</i>,) are, I +think, the most remarkable; both being of the +same size as the originals, and performed with +a perfection of colouring that is almost inconceivable. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">282</a></span></p> + +<p>That the fragile clay of which porcelain is fabricated +should so lend itself to the skill of the +workman,—or rather, that the workman's skill +should so triumph over the million chances which +exist against bringing unbroken out of the fire a +smooth and level <i>plaque</i> of such extent,—is indeed +most wonderful. Still more so is the skill which +has enabled the artist to prophesy, as he painted +with his greys and his greens, that the tints which +flowed from his pencil of one colour, should assume, +from the nicely-regulated action of an element +the most difficult to govern, hues and shades +so exquisitely imitative of his great original.</p> + +<p>But having acknowledged this, I have nothing +more to say in praise of a <i>tour de force</i> which, in +my opinion, can only be attempted by the sacrifice +of common sense. The <i>chefs-d'œuvre</i> of a Titian +or a Raphaël are treasures of which we may +lawfully covet an imitation; but why should it +be attempted in a manner the most difficult, the +most laborious, the most likely to fail, and the +most liable to destruction when completed?—not +to mention that, after all, there is in the most +perfect copy on porcelain a something—I am +mistress of no words to define it—which does not +satisfy the mind.</p> + +<p>As far as regards my own feelings indeed, I +could go farther, and say that the effect produced +is to a certain degree positively disagreeable,—not +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">283</a></span> +quite unlike that occasioned by examining +needlework performed without fingers, or +watch-papers exquisitely cut out by feet instead +of hands. The admiration demanded is less for +the thing itself, than for the very defective means +employed to produce it. Were there indeed none +other, the inventor would deserve a statue, and +the artist, like Trisotin, should take the air "<i>en +carrosse doré</i>:" but as it is, I would rather see a +good copy on canvass than on china.</p> + +<p>Far different, however, is the effect produced +by this beautiful and ingenious branch of art +when displayed in the embellishment of cups +and plates, vases and tea-trays. I never saw +anything more gracefully appropriate to the last +high finish of domestic elegance than all the +articles of this description exhibited this year at +the Louvre. It is impossible to admire or to +praise them too much; or to deny that, wonderfully +as similar manufactories have improved in +England within the last thirty years, we have +still nothing equal to the finer specimens of the +Sèvres porcelain.</p> + +<p>These rooms were, like every other place in +Paris where human beings know that they shall +meet each other, extremely full of company; and +I have certainly never seen such ecstasy of admiration +produced by any objects exhibited to +the public eye, as was elicited by some of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">284</a></span> +articles displayed on this occasion: they are indeed +most beautiful; the form, the material, the +workmanship, all perfect.</p> + +<p>The Sèvres manufactory must, I think, have +some individuals attached to it who have made +the theory of colour an especial study. It is +worth while to walk round the vast table, or +rather platform, raised in the middle of the apartment, +for the purpose of examining the different +sets, with a view only to observe the effect produced +on the eye by the arrangement of colours +in each.</p> + +<p>The finest specimens, after the wonderful copies +from pictures which I have already mentioned, are +small breakfast-sets—for a <i>tête-à-tête</i>, I believe,—enclosed +in large cases lined either with white +satin or white velvet. These cases are all open +for inspection, but with a stout brass bar around, +to protect them from the peril of too near an +approach. The lid is so formed as exactly to +receive the tray; while the articles to be placed +upon it, when in use, are arranged each in its +own delicate recess, with such an attention to +composition and general effect as to show all +and everything to the greatest possible advantage.</p> + +<p>Some of these exquisite specimens are decorated +with flowers, some with landscapes, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">285</a></span> +others with figures, or miniatures of heads, either +superlative in beauty or distinguished by fame. +These beautiful decorations, admirable as they +all are in design and execution, struck me less +than the perfect taste with which the reigning +colour which pervades each set, either as background, +lining, or border, is made to harmonize +with the ornaments upon it.</p> + +<p>It is a positive pleasure, independent of the +amusement which may be derived from a closer +examination, to cast the eye over the general +effect produced by the consummate taste and +skill thus displayed. Those curious affinities and +antipathies among colours, which I have seen +made the subject of many pretty experimental +lectures, must, I am sure, have been studied and +acted upon by the <i>colour-master</i> of each department; +and the result is to my feelings productive +of a pleasure, from the contemplation of the effect +produced, as distinct from the examination of the +design, or of any other circumstance connected +with the art, as the gratification produced by +the smell of an orange-blossom or a rose: it is +a pleasure which has no connexion with the intellect, +but arises solely from its agreeable effect +on the sense.</p> + +<p>The eye seems to be unconsciously soothed +and gratified, and lingers upon the rich, the soft, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">286</a></span> +or the brilliant hues, with a satisfaction that +positively amounts to enjoyment.</p> + +<p>Whoever may be occupied by the "delightful +task" of fitting up a sumptuous drawing-room, +will do well to take a tour round a room filled +with sets of Sèvres porcelain. The important +question of "What colours shall we mix?" would +receive an answer there, with the delightful certainty +that no solecism in taste could possibly be +committed by obeying it.</p> + +<p>The Gobelins and Beauvais work for chairs, +screens, cushions, and various other articles, +makes a great display this year. It is very +beautiful, both in design and execution; and at +the present moment, when the stately magnificence +of the age of Louis Quinze is so much in +vogue—in compliment, it is said, to the taste of +the Duc d'Orléans,—this costly manufacture is +likely again to flourish.</p> + +<p>Never can a large and lofty chamber present +an appearance of more princely magnificence than +when thus decorated; and the manner in which +this elaborate style of ancient embellishment is +now adopted to modern use, is equally ingenious +and elegant.</p> + +<p>Some political economists talk of the national +advantage of decreasing labour by machinery, +while others advocate every fashion which demands +the work of hands. I will not attempt +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">287</a></span> +to decide on which side wisdom lies; but, in our +present imperfect condition, everything that brings +an innocent and profitable occupation to women +appears to me desirable.</p> + +<p>The needles of France are assuredly the most +skilful in the world; and set to work as they are +upon designs that rival those of the Vatican in +elegance, they produce a perfection of embroidery +that sets all competition at defiance.</p> + +<p>In pursuing my way along the rail which encloses +the specimens exhibited—a progress which +was necessarily very slow from the pressure of +the crowd,—I followed close behind a tall, elegant, +aristocratic-looking gentleman, who was accompanied +by his son—decidedly his son,—the boy +"fathered himself;" I never saw a stronger likeness. +Their conversation, which I overheard by +no act of impertinent listening, but because I +could not possibly avoid it, amused me much. +I am seldom thrown into such close contact with +strangers without making a fancy-sketch of who +and what they are; but upon this occasion I +was thrown out,—it was like reading a novel, +the <i>dénouement</i> of which is so well concealed as +to evade guessing. The boy and his father were +not of one mind; their observations were made +in the spirit of different parties: the father, I +suspect, was a royalist,—the son, I am sure, was +a young doctrinaire. The crowd hung long upon +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">288</a></span> +the spot where a magnificent collection of embroidery +for the seats and backs of a set of +chairs was displayed. "They are for the Duke +of Orleans," said the father.</p> + +<p>"Yes, yes," said the boy; "they are fit for him—they +are princely."</p> + +<p>"They are fit for a king!" said the father with +a sigh.</p> + +<p>The lad paused for a moment, and then said, +<i>avec intention</i>, as the stage directions express it, +"Mais lui aussi, il est fils de St. Louis; n'est-ce +pas?" The father answered not, and the crowd +moved on.</p> + +<p>All I could make of this was, that the boy's +instructor, whether male or female, was a faithful +disciple of the "<span class="smcap">Parcequ</span>'<i>il est Bourbon</i>" +school; and whatever leaven of wavering faith +may be mixed up with this doctrine, it forms +perhaps the best defence to be found for attachment +to the reigning dynasty amongst those who +are too young to enter fully into the expediency +part of the question.</p> + +<p>In the last of the suite of rooms opened for this +exhibition, are displayed splendid pieces of tapestry +from subjects taken from Rubens' Medicean +Gallery.</p> + +<p>That the achievement of these enormous combinations +of stitches must have been a labour of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">289</a></span> +extreme difficulty, there can be no doubt; but +notwithstanding my admiration for French needles, +I am tempted to add, in the words of our +uncompromising moralist, "Would it had been +impossible!"</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXXII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">290</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Eglise Apostolique Française.—Its doctrine.—L'Abbé Auzou.—His +Sermon on "les Plaisirs Populaires."</p> + +<p>Among the multitude of friendly injunctions +to see this, and to hear that, which have produced +me so much agreeable occupation, I have more +than once been very earnestly recommended to +visit the "Eglise Apostolique Française" on the +Boulevard St. Denis, for the purpose of hearing +l'Abbé Auzou, and still more, that I might have +an opportunity of observing the peculiarities of this +mode of worship, or rather of doctrine; for, in +fact, the ceremonies at the altar differ but little, +as far as I can perceive, from those of the Church +of Rome, excepting that the evident poverty of +the establishment precludes the splendour which +usually attends the performance of its offices. I +have no very satisfactory data by which to judge +of the degree of estimation in which this new sect +is held: by some I have heard them spoken +of as apostles, and by others as a Paria caste +unworthy of any notice.</p> + +<p>Before hearing M. L'Abbé Auzou, or attending +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">291</a></span> +the service at his church, I wished to read +some of the publications which explain their tenets, +and accordingly called at the little bureau +behind their chapel on the Boulevard St. Denis, +where we were told these publications could be +found. Having purchased several pamphlets containing +catechism, hymns, sermons, and so forth, +we entered into conversation with the young man +who presided in this obscure and dark closet, +dignified by the name of "Secrétariat de l'Eglise +Apostolique Française."</p> + +<p>He told us that he was assistant minister of the +chapel, and we found him extremely conversible +and communicative.</p> + +<p>The chief differences between this new church +and those which have preceded it in the reform +of the Roman Catholic religion, appears to +consist in the preservation of the external forms +of worship, which other reformers have rejected, +and also of several dogmas, purely doctrinal, and +wholly unconnected with those principles of church +power and church discipline, the abuse of which +was the immediate cause of all protestant reform.</p> + +<p>They acknowledge the real presence. I find in +the <i>Catéchisme</i> these questions and answers:</p> + +<p>"Jésus-Christ est-il sous le pain, ou bien sous +le vin?—Il est sous les deux espèces à la fois.</p> + +<p>"Et quand l'hostie est partagée?—Jésus-Christ +est tout entier en chaque partie. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">292</a></span></p> + +<p>"Que faut-il faire pendant le jour où l'on a +communié?—Assister aux offices, et ensuite se +réjouir de son bonheur avec ses parens et ses +amis."</p> + +<p class="p3">Their clergy are permitted to marry. They +deny that any power of absolution rests with the +priest, allowing him only that of intercession by +prayer for the forgiveness of the penitent. Auricular +confession is not enjoined, but recommended +as useful to children. They profess entire toleration +to every variety of Christian belief; but as +the "Eglise Française" refuses to acknowledge +dependance upon any <i>secte étrangère</i>,—by which +phrase I conceive the Church of Rome to be +meant,—they also declare, "d'après l'Evangile, +que la religion ne doit jamais intervenir dans les +gouvernemens temporels."</p> + +<p>They recognise the seven sacraments, only modifying +that of penitence, as above mentioned. +They deny the eternity of punishment, but I find +no mention of purgatory. They do not enjoin +fasting. I find in the <i>Catéchisme</i> the following +explanation of their doctrine on this head, which +appears to be extremely reasonable.</p> + +<p>"L'Eglise Française n'impose donc pas le jeûne +et l'abstinence?—Non; l'Eglise Apostolique Française +s'en rapporte pour le jeûne aux fidèles eux-mêmes, +et ne reconnaît en aucune façon le précepte +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">293</a></span> +de l'abstinence; mais, plus prudente dans +ses principes, elle substitue à un jeûne de quelques +jours une sobriété continuelle, et remplace une +abstinence périodique par une tempérance de +chaque jour, de chaque année, de toute la vie."</p> + +<p>In all this there appears little in doctrine, excepting +the admission of the divine presence in +the elements of the eucharist, that differs greatly +from most other reformed churches: nevertheless, +the ceremonies are entirely similar to those of the +Roman Catholic religion.</p> + +<p>But whatever there may be either of good or +of evil in this mixture, its effect must, I think, +prove absolutely nugatory on society, from the +entire absence of any church government or discipline +whatever. That this is in fact the case, is +thus plainly stated in the preface to their published +Catechism:—</p> + +<p>"L'Eglise Apostolique Française ne reconnaît +aucune hiérarchie; elle repousse en conséquence +l'autorité de tout pouvoir spirituel étranger, et de +tout autre pouvoir qui en dépend ou qui s'y soumet. +Elle ne reconnaît d'autre autorité spirituelle +que celle qu'exercerait la réunion de ses +fidèles; réunion qui, suivant les principes des +apôtres, constitue seule ce que de leur temps on +appelait <span class="smcap">Eglise</span>.</p> + +<p>"Elle n'est point salariée par l'état. L'administration +de ses secours spirituels est gratuite. Elle +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">294</a></span> +n'a de tarif, ni pour les baptêmes, ni pour les +mariages, ni enfin pour les inhumations. Elle vit +de peu, et s'en remet à la générosité, ou plutôt à la +volonté, des fidèles.</p> + +<p>"Ne reconnaissant pas d'hiérarchie, elle ne reconnaît +pas non plus de division de territoire, soit +en arrondissement, soit en paroisse: elle accueille +donc tous les Chrétiens qui se présentent à elle +pour mander à ses prêtres l'accomplissement des +fonctions de ministres de Jésus-Christ."</p> + +<p class="p3">The <i>décousu</i> principles of the day can hardly +be carried farther than this. A rope of sand is +the only fitting emblem for a congregation so constituted; +and, like a rope of sand, it must of necessity +fall asunder, for there is no principle of union +to prevent it.</p> + +<p>After I had finished my studies on the subject, +I heard a sermon preached in the church,—not, +however, by M. l'Abbé Auzou, who was ill, but +by the same person with whom we had conversed +at the <i>Secrétariat</i>. His sermon was a strong exposition +of the abuses practised by the clergy of +the Church of Rome,—a theme certainly more +fertile than new.</p> + +<p>In reading some of the most celebrated discourses +of the Abbé Auzou, I was the most struck +with one entitled—"Discours sur les Plaisirs +Populaires, les Bals, et les Spectacles." The text +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">295</a></span> +is from St. Matthew,—"Come unto me all ye that +labour and are heavy laden, and I will give you +rest ... for my yoke is easy, and my burden is +light."</p> + +<p>In this singular discourse, among some things +that are reasonable, and more that are plausible, +it is impossible to avoid seeing a spirit of lawless +uncontrol, which seems to breathe more of revolution +than of piety.</p> + +<p>I am no advocate for a Judaical observance +of the Sabbath, nor am I ignorant of the fearful +abuses which have arisen from man's daring to +arrogate to himself a power vested in God alone,—the +power of forgiving the sins of man. The +undue authority assumed by the sovereign pontiff +of Rome is likewise sufficiently evident, as are +many other abuses justly reprobated in the sermons +of the Abbé Auzou. Nevertheless, education, +observation, and I might say experience, +have taught me that religion requires and demands +that care, protection, and government +which are so absolutely essential to the well-being +of every community of human beings who would +unite together for one general object. To talk +of a self-governing church, is just as absurd as +to talk of a self-governing ship, or a self-governing +family.</p> + +<p>It should seem, by the reprobation expressed +against the severity of the Roman Catholic clergy +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">296</a></span> +in these sermons, as well as from anecdotes which +I have occasionally heard in society, that the +Church of Rome and the Church of Calvin are +alike hostile to every kind of dissipation, and +that at the present moment they have many +points of discipline in common—at least as respects +the injunctions laid upon their congregations +respecting their private conduct.</p> + +<p>M. l'Abbé Auzou says, in speaking of revolutionary +reforms,—</p> + +<p>"Rien n'est changé dans le sacerdoce; et l'on +peut dire aussi des prêtres toujours romains, qu'ils +n'ont rien oublié, qu'ils n'ont rien appris. Cependant, +sous le règne de Napoléon leur orgueil +a fléchi devant le grand intérêt de leur réinstallation.... +Aussi, au retour de leur roi légitime, +cet orgueil comprimé s'est-il relevé dans +toute sa hauteur. Rome a placé son trône à +côté de celui d'un roi, un peu philosophe, a-t-on +dit, mais perclus et impotent. Et enfin, lorsque +son successeur, d'abord accueilli par le peuple, +est tombé entre les mains des prêtres, ceux-ci, +profitant de son âge et de sa faiblesse, ont exploité +les erreurs d'une jeunesse fougueuse, qui +cependant lui avaient valu le surnom de Chevalier +Français. Alors nous avons vu ce roi sacrifier +sa popularité à leurs exigeances; appeler +toute la nation à l'expiation de ses fautes personnelles, +à son repentir, à sa pénitence; et la +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">297</a></span> +forcer à renier, pour ainsi dire, trente ans de +gloire et de liberté.... Un roi que le remords +poursuit, dévore, et qui ne reconnaît d'autre recours +que dans le prêtre qui l'a soumis à sa loi +par la menace et la terreur de l'enfer; ce roi, +sous le coup d'une absolution conditionnelle et +toujours suspendue, abdique, sans le savoir, en +faveur de son confesseur....</p> + +<p>"Roi! tu languis dans l'exil, et tes fautes sont +punies jusque dans les dernières générations!</p> + +<p>"Les prêtres, les prêtres romains se sont cependant +soumis à un nouveau prince, à qui la souveraineté +nationale a remis le sceptre; ils prient +enfin pour lui ... et l'on sait avec quelle +sincérité.</p> + +<p>"Mais, peuple, comme leur joug s'appesantit +sur toi!... Dans leur fureur mal-déguisée ils +le disent.... La maison du Seigneur est déserte, +et tu te rues avec fureur vers les plaisirs, les +fêtes, les bals et les spectacles! Anathême donc +contre les plaisirs, les fêtes et les bals! Anathême +contre les spectacles!</p> + +<p>"Ne sont-ce point là, mes frères, les paroles qui +tombent chaque jour menaçantes de la chaire de +l'Eglise Romaine?...</p> + +<p>"Combien notre langage sera différent! Le +Dieu des Juifs est bien notre Dieu; mais sa +colère a été désarmée par le sacrifice que son +fils lui a offert pour notre rédemption. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">298</a></span></p> + +<p>"Pourquoi ce sang répandu sur la croix pour +nos péchés si la satisfaction de nos besoins physiques, +si nos fonctions intellectuelles, si l'entrainement +des passions qui constituent notre être peuvent +à chaque instant nous faire tomber dans le +péché et nous précipiter dans l'abîme?</p> + +<p>"Aussi nous vous disons dans notre chaire +apostolique,—Exécutez les commandemens de +Dieu, adorez et glorifiez notre Père qui est aux +cieux, pratiquez la morale de l'Evangile, aimez +votre prochain comme vous-mêmes, et vous aurez +accompli la loi de Jésus-Christ ... et nous +ajoutons,—Vous êtes membre de la société pour +laquelle vous avez été créés, et cette société vous +impose des devoirs; en échange elle vous procure +des jouissances et des plaisirs: remplissez +vos devoirs et livrez-vous ensuite sans crainte aux +jouissances et aux plaisirs qu'elle vous présente. +Votre participation à ces mêmes plaisirs, à ces +mêmes jouissances, est encore une partie de vos +devoirs, et vous aurez accompli encore une fois +la loi de Jésus-Christ."</p> + +<p>This doctrine may assuredly entitle the Eglise +Apostolique Française to the appellation of a <span class="smcap">New +Church</span>.</p> + +<p>M. l'Abbé Auzou goes on yet farther in the +same strain:—</p> + +<p>"Anathême!... Arme vieille, rouillée, émoussée, +et que vous cherchez en vain à retremper dans le +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">299</a></span> +fiel de la colère et de la vengeance!... Anathême +aux plaisirs! Et quoi! parceque Dieu a dit à notre +premier père, Vous mangerez votre pain à la +sueur de votre visage, l'homme serait condamné +à rester toujours courbé sous le joug du travail? +N'aura-t-il à espérer aucun adoucissement à ses +peines?...</p> + +<p>"Non, sans doute ... vous dira le clergé romain, +puisque Dieu a consacré le septième jour +au repos?</p> + +<p>"Et quel est ce repos?</p> + +<p>"Sera-ce celui, qu'en vous servant du bras du +séculier, vous avez tenté de lui imposer par une +ordonnance préscrivant de fermer tous les établissemens +qui décorent notre cité, nos cafés, nos +restaurans, pour ne tolérer que l'ouverture des +officines du pharmacien?—ordonnance dont une +caricature spirituelle a fait si prompte justice."</p> + +<p>The following picture of a fanatical Sunday +takes me back at once to America. There, however, +its worst effect was to steep the senses in +the unnecessary oblivion of a few more hours of +sleep; but in Paris I should really expect that +such restraint, were it indeed possible to impose +it, would literally drive the sensitive and mobile +population to madness.</p> + +<p>"Et quel est donc ce repos?</p> + +<p>"Sera-ce l'immobilité des corps; l'abandon de +toutes nos facultés; l'oisiveté; l'ennui, compagnon +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">300</a></span> +inséparable de l'oisiveté; la prière; la méditation,—la +méditation plus pénible pour la plupart des +hommes que le travail des mains; et, enfin, vos +sermons intolérans, et, qui pis est peut-être, si +ennuyeux?</p> + +<p>"Ah! imposer à l'homme un pareil repos ne +serait que suspendre son travail pour lui faire +porter, comme à St. Simon de Cyrène, la croix +de Jésus-Christ jusqu'au sommet escarpé du Calvaire."</p> + +<p>The Abbé then proceeds to promulgate his +bull for the permission of all sorts of Parisian +delights; nay, he takes a very pretty and picturesque +ramble into the country, where "les jeunes +garçons et les jeunes filles s'y livrent à des danses +rustiques"—and, in short, gives so animated a picture +of the pleasures which ought to await the +Sabbath both in town and country, that it is almost +impossible to read it without feeling a wish +that every human being who through the six +days of needful labour has been "weary worn +with care" should pass the seventh amid the +bright and cheering scenes he describes. But +he effectually checks this feeling of sympathy +with his views by what follows. He describes +habitual drunkenness with the disgust it merits; +but strangely qualifies this, by adding to his condemnation +of the "homme dégradé qui, oubliant +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">301</a></span> +chaque jour sa dignité dans les excès d'une hideuse +ivrognerie, <i>n'attend pas le jour que Dieu a +consacré au repos</i>, à la distraction, aux plaisirs, +pour se livrer à son ignoble passion," these dangerous +words:—</p> + +<p>"Mais condamnerons-nous sans retour notre +frère pour un jour d'intempérance passagère, et +blamerons-nous celui qui, cherchant dans le vin, +ce présent du Ciel, un moment d'oubli des misères +humaines, n'a point su s'arrêter à cette douce +ivresse, oublieuse des maux et créatrice d'heureuses +illusions?"</p> + +<p>Is not this using the spur where the rein is +most wanting? I am persuaded that it is not +the intention of the Abbé Auzou to advocate any +species of immorality; but all the world, and particularly +the French world perhaps, is so well +disposed to amuse itself <i>coûte qui coûte</i>, that I +confess I doubt the wisdom of enforcing the necessity +of so doing from the pulpit.</p> + +<p>The unwise, unauthorised, and most unchristian +severity of the Calvinistic and Romish priesthood +may, I think, lawfully and righteously be commented +upon and reprobated both in the pulpit and +out of it; but this reprobation should not clothe +itself in license, or in any language that can be +interpreted as such. There are many, I should +think, in every Christian land, both clergy and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">302</a></span> +laity, but neither popish nor Calvinistic, who +would shrink both from the sentiment and expression +of the following passage:—</p> + +<p>"Rappelons-nous que le patriarche Noé, lui qui +planta la vigne et exprima le jus de son fruit, en +abusa une fois, et que Dieu ne lui en fit point le +reproche: Dieu punit, au contraire, le fils qui +n'avait point caché cette faiblesse d'un père."</p> + +<p>There is some worldly wisdom, however, in the +exclamation he addresses to his intolerant brethren.</p> + +<p>"Et vous, prêtres aveugles et impolitiques, laissez +le peuple se livrer à ses plaisirs innocens; +faites en sorte qu'il se contente de sa position; +qu'il ne compare pas cette position pénible, douloureuse, +avec l'oisiveté dans laquelle vous vivez +vous-mêmes, et que vous ne devez qu'à la nouvelle +dîme qui s'exprime de son front."</p> + +<p>He then proceeds to say, that it is not the poor +only who are subjected to this severity, but the +rich also ... "que le prêtre de la secte romaine +veut arrêter, troubler dans ses plaisirs, dans ses +délassemens."... "Un repas par lequel on célèbre +l'union de deux jeunes cœurs, l'union de deux +familles, et dans lequel règnent la joie, <i>et peut-être +aussi un peu plus que de la gaîté</i>, est l'objet +de la censure inexorable de ces prêtres rigides.... +Ils oublient que celui qu'ils disent être leur maître +a consacré ces réunions par sa présence, et que le +vin ayant manqué par le trop grand usage qu'on +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">303</a></span> +en avait fait, il n'en a pas moins changé l'eau en +vin. Ils sont tous disposés à répondre comme ce +Janséniste à qui l'on rappelait cet intéressant épisode +de la vie de Jésus,—'Ce n'est pas ce qu'il a +fait de mieux.'—Impie! ... tu blasphêmes contre +ton maître!...</p> + +<p>"Ah! mes frères, admirons, nous, dans la sincérité +de notre cœur, cet exemple de bienveillance +et de <i>sociabilité pratique</i>, et bénissons la bonté de +Jésus."</p> + +<p>Then follows an earnest defence, or rather eulogy, +of dancing. But though I greatly approve +the exercise for young people, and believe it to be +as innocent as it is natural, I would not, were I +called upon to preach a sermon, address my hearers +after this manner:—</p> + +<p>"Quant aux bals, je ne chercherai point à les +excuser, à les défendre, par <i>des exemples puisés +dans l'écriture sainte</i>. Je ne vous représenterai +point David dansant devant l'arche.... Je ne +vous le donnerai pas non plus pour modèle, à vous, +jeunes gens de notre France <i>si polie</i>, <i>si élégante</i>, +car sans doute <i>il dansait mal</i>; puisque, suivant la +Bible, Michal sa femme, voyant le roi David qui +sautait et dansait, se moqua de lui et le méprisa +dans son cœur." There is about as much piety as +good taste in this.</p> + +<p>I have already given you such long extracts, +that I must omit all he says,—and it is much in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">304</a></span> +favour of this amusement. Such forbearance is +the more necessary, as I must give you a passage +or two more on other subjects. Among the general +reasons which he brings forward to prove that +fêtes and festivals are beneficial to the people, he +very justly remarks that the occupation they afford +to industry is not the least important, observing +that the popish church takes no heed of such things; +and then adds, addressing the manufacturers,—</p> + +<p>"Et lorsque le besoin se fera sentir et pour +vous et vos enfans, allez à l'Archevêché! ... à +l'Archevêché! ... un jour la colère du peuple a +éclaté,—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p> +"Je n'ai fait que passer, il n'était déjà plus."...</p> +</div> + +<p>The date which this sermon bears on its title-page +is 1834; but the event to which this line from +Racine alludes was the destruction of the archiepiscopal +palace, which took place, if I mistake not, +in 1831. If the "<i>il n'était déjà plus</i>" alludes to +the palace, it is correct enough, for destruction +could not have done its work better: but if it be +meant to describe the fate of <span class="smcap">Monseigneur l'Archevêque +de Paris</span>, the preacher is not a prophet; +for, in truth, the sacrilegious rout "n'a fait que +passer," and <span class="smcap">Monseigneur</span> has only risen higher +from the blow. Public orators of all kinds should +be very cautious, in these moveable times, how +they venture to judge from to-day what may be +to-morrow. The only oracular sentence that can +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">305</a></span> +be uttered at present with the least chance of +success from the developement of the future is, +"Who can say what may happen next?" All who +have sufficient prudence to restrict their prescience +to this acute form of prophecy, may have the pleasure, +let come what may, of turning to their neighbours +triumphantly with the question—"Did I +not tell you that something was going to happen?"—but +it is dangerous to be one atom more +precise. Even before this letter can reach you, +my friend, M. l'Abbé's interpretation of "il n'était +déjà plus" may be more correct than mine. I say +this, however, only to save my credit with you in +case of the worst; for my private opinion is, that +Monseigneur was never in a more prosperous condition +in his life, and that, "as no one can say +what will happen next," I should not be at all +astonished if a cardinal's hat were speedily to reward +him for all he has done and suffered.</p> + +<p>I certainly intended to have given you a few +specimens of the Abbé Auzou's manner of advocating +theatrical exhibitions; but I fear they +would lead me into too great length of citation. +He is sometimes really eloquent upon the subject: +nevertheless, his opinions on it, however reasonable, +would have been delivered with better effect +from the easy-chair of his library than from the +pulpit of his church. It is not that what would +be good when heard from the one could become +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">306</a></span> +evil when listened to from the other: but the +preacher's pulpit is intended for other uses; and +though the visits to a well-regulated theatre may +be as lawful as eating, and as innocent too, we go +to the house of God in the hope of hearing tidings +more important than his minister's assurance that +they are so.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXXIII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">307</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Establishment for Insane Patients at Vanves.—Description of +the arrangements.—Englishman.—His religious madness.</p> + +<p>You will think perhaps that I have chosen oddly +the object which has induced me to make an excursion +out of town, and obliged me to give up +nearly an entire day at Paris, when I tell you that it +was to visit an institution for the reception of the +insane. There are, however, few things which +interest me more than an establishment of this +nature; especially when, as in the present instance, +my manner of introduction to it is such as to give +me the hope of hearing the phenomena of these +awful maladies discussed by those well acquainted +with them. The establishment of MM. Voisin +and Fabret, at Vanves, was mentioned to me as +one in which many improvements in the mode of +treating alienation of mind have been suggested +and tried with excellent effect; and having the +opportunity of visiting it in company with a lady +who was well acquainted with the gentlemen presiding +over it, I determined to take advantage of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">308</a></span> +it. My friend, too, knew how to direct my attention +to what was most interesting, from having +had a relation placed there, whom for many +months she had been in the constant habit of +visiting.</p> + +<p>Her introduction obtained for me the most +attentive reception, and the fullest explanation of +their admirable system, which appears to me to +combine, and on a very large and noble scale, +everything likely to assuage the sufferings, soothe +the spirits, and contribute to the health of the +patients.</p> + +<p>Vanves is situated at the distance of one league +from Paris, in a beautiful part of the country; and +the establishment itself, from almost every part of +the high ground on which it is placed, commands +views so varied and extensive, as not only to render +the principal mansion a charming residence, +but really to make the walks and drives within +the enclosure of the extensive premises delightful.</p> + +<p>The grounds are exceedingly well laid out, with +careful attention to the principal object for which +they are arranged, but without neglecting any of +the beauty of which the spot is so capable. They +have shade and flowers, distant views and sheltered +seats, with pleasant walks, and even drives +and rides, in all directions. The enclosure contains +about sixty acres, to every part of which the +patients who are well enough to walk about can +be admitted with perfect safety. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">309</a></span></p> + +<p>In this park are situated two or three distinct +lodges, which are found occasionally to be of the +greatest utility, in cases where the most profound +quiet is necessary, and yet where too strict confinement +would be injurious. Indeed, it appears +to me that the object principally kept in view +throughout all the arrangements, is the power of +keeping patients out of sight and hearing of each +other till they are sufficiently advanced towards +recovery to make it a real pleasure and advantage +to associate together.</p> + +<p>As soon as they reach this favourable stage of +their convalescence, they mix with the family in +very handsome rooms, where books, music, and a +billiard-table assist them to pass the hours without +<i>ennui</i>. Every patient has a separate sleeping-apartment, +in none of which are the precautions +necessary for their safety permitted to be visible. +What would wear the appearance of iron bars in +every other place of the kind that I have seen, +are here made to look like very neat <i>jalousies</i>. +Not a bolt or a bar is perceptible, nor any object +whatever that might shock the spirit, if at any +time a gleam of recovered intellect should return +to visit it.</p> + +<p>This cautious keeping out of sight of the sufferers +everything that might awaken them to a +sense of their own condition, or that of the other +patients, appears to me to be the most peculiar +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">310</a></span> +feature of the discipline, and is evidently one of +the objects most sedulously kept in view. Next +to this I should place the system of inducing the +male patients to exercise their limbs, and amuse +their spirits, by working in the garden, at any undertaking, +however <i>bizarre</i> and profitless, which +can induce them to keep mind and body healthily +employed. I know not if this has been systematically +resorted to elsewhere; but the good sense +of it is certainly very obvious, and the effect, as I +was told, is found to be very generally beneficial; +though it occasionally happens that some among +them have fancied their dignity compromised by +using a spade or a hoe,—and then some of the +family join with them in the labour, to prove that +it is merely a matter of amusement: in short, +everything likely to cheer or soothe the spirits +seems brought into use among them.</p> + +<p>The ground close adjoining to the house is +divided into many small well-enclosed gardens; +the women's apartments opening to some, the +men's to others of them. In several of these +gardens I observed neat little tables, such as +are used in the <i>restaurans</i> of Paris, with a +clean cloth, and all necessary appointments, placed +pleasantly and commodiously in the shade, at each +of which was seated one person, who was served +with a separate dinner, and with every appearance +of comfort. Had I not known their condition, I +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">311</a></span> +should in many instances have thought the spectacle +a very pleasing one.</p> + +<p>M. Voisin walked through all parts of the establishment +with us, and there appeared to exist a +perfectly good understanding between him and +his patients. Among many regulations, which +all appeared excellent, he told me that the friends +of his inmates were permitted at all times, and +under all circumstances, to visit them without +any restraint whatever: an arrangement which +can only be productive of confidence and advantage +to all parties; as it is perfectly inconceivable +that any one who had felt obliged to place an +unhappy friend or relative under restraint should +wish to interfere with the discipline necessary for +his ultimate advantage; whereas a contrary system +is likely to give occasion to constant doubts +and fears on one hand, and to the possibility of +ill treatment or unnecessary restraint on the other. +In one of the courts appropriated to the use of +such male patients as were sufficiently convalescent +to permit their associating together, and +amusing themselves with the different games in +which they are permitted to share, we saw a +young Englishman, now rapidly recovering, but +who had scrawled over the walls of his own sleeping-apartment, +poor fellow! with a pencil, a vast +quantity of writing, almost wholly on religious +subjects; proving but too plainly that he was one +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">312</a></span> +of the many victims of fanaticism. Every thought +seemed pregnant with suffering, and sometimes +bursts of agony were scrawled in trembling +characters, that spoke the very extremity of +terror. "Who is there can endure fire and flame +for ever, for ever, and for ever?" "Death is before +us—Hell follows it!" "The bottomless pit—groans—tortures—anguish—for +ever!"... Such +sentences as these were still legible, though much +had been obliterated.</p> + +<p>Who can wonder that a mind thus occupied +should lose that fine balance with which nature +has arranged our faculties, making one keep watch +and ward over the other?... This poor fellow lost +his wits under the process of conversion: Judgment +being entirely overthrown, Imagination had +vaulted into its seat, pregnant with visions black +as night, dark—oh! far darker than the tomb! +"palled in the dunnest smoke of hell," and armed +with every image for the eternity of torture that +the ingenuity of man could devise. Who can +wonder at his madness? And how many crimes +are there recorded in the Newgate Calendar which +equal in atrocity that of so distorting a mind, +that sought to raise its humble hopes towards +heaven!</p> + +<p>I felt particularly interested for this poor lunatic, +both as my countryman, and the victim of +by far the most fearful tyranny that man can +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">313</a></span> +exercise on man. Against all other injury it is +not difficult to believe that a steadfast spirit can +arm itself and say with Hamlet,</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"I do not set my life at a pin's fee."</p> + +<p>But against this, it were a vain boast to add,</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1"> +"And for my soul, what can it do to that,</p> +<p>Being a thing immortal as itself?"</p> +</div> + +<p>For, alas! it is that very immortality which gives +hope, comfort, and strength under every other persecution +that paralyses the sufferer under this, +and arms with such horrid strength the blasphemous +wretch who teaches him to turn in terror +from his God.</p> + +<p>M. Voisin told me that this unfortunate young +man had been for some time daily becoming more +calm and tranquil, and that he entertained not +any doubt of his ultimate recovery.</p> + +<p>Excepting this my poor countryman, the only +patient I saw whose situation it was particularly +painful to contemplate was a young girl who had +only arrived the preceding day. There was in +her eyes a restless, anxious, agitated manner of +looking about on all things, and gathering a distinct +idea from none—a vague uncertainty as to +where she was, not felt with sufficient strength to +amount to wonder, but enough to rob her of all +the feeling of repose which belongs to home. +Poor girl! perhaps some faltering, unfixable +thought brought at intervals the figure of her +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">314</a></span> +mother to her; for as I looked at her pale face, +its vacant expression received more than once a +sad but passing gleam of melancholy meaning. +She coughed frequently; but the cough seemed +affected,—or rather, it appeared to be an effort +not so much required by her lungs, as by the need +of some change, some relief—she knew not +what, nor where nor how to seek it. She appeared +very desirous of shaking off the attendance +of a woman who was waiting upon her, and her +whole manner indicated a sort of fretful unrest +that it made one wretched to contemplate. But +here again I was comforted by the assurance that +there were no symptoms which forbade hope of +recovery.</p> + +<p>I remember being told, when visiting the lunatic +asylum near New York, that the most frequent +causes of insanity were ascertained to be +religion and drunkenness. Near Paris I find that +love, high play, and politics are considered as the +principal causes of this calamity; and certainly +nothing can be more accordant with what observation +would teach one to expect than both these +statements. At New York the physician told me +that madness arising from excessive drinking admitted, +in the great majority of cases, of a perfect +cure; but that religious aberration of intellect was +much more enduring.</p> + +<p>At Paris I have heard the same; for here also +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">315</a></span> +it occasionally happens, though not often, that +the reason becomes disturbed by repeated and +frequent intoxication: but where either politics +or love has taken such hold of the mind as to +disturb the reasoning power, the recovery is less +certain and more slow.</p> + +<p>Dr. Voisin told me that he uniformly found the +first symptoms of insanity appear in the wavering, +indifferent, and altered state of the affections towards +relations and friends;—apathy, coldness, +and, in some cases, dislike, and even violent antipathy, +being sure to appear, wherever previous +attachment had been the most remarkable. They +sometimes, but not very often, take capricious fits +of fondness for strangers; but never with any +show of reason, and never for any length of time. +The most certain symptom of an approach towards +recovery is when the heart appears to be +re-awakened to its natural feelings and old attachments.</p> + +<p>There was one old lady that I watched eating +her dinner of vegetables and fruit at a little table +in one of the gardens, who had adorned her bonnet +with innumerable scraps of trumpery, and set +it on her head with the most studied and coquettish +air imaginable: she fed herself with the grace +or grimace of a young beauty, eating grapes of +a guinea a pound, from a plate of crystal, with +a golden fork. I am sure she was enjoying all +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">316</a></span> +the happiness of feeling herself beautiful, elegant, +and admired: and when I looked at the wrinkled +ruin of her once handsome face, I could hardly +think her madness a misfortune; for though I +did not obtain any pitiful story concerning her, +or any history of the cause which brought her +there, I felt sure that it must in some way or +other be connected with some feeling of deeply-mortified +vanity: and if I am right in my conjecture, +what has the world left for her equal in +consolation to the wild fancies which now shed +such simpering complacency over her countenance? +And might we not exclaim for her in +all kindness—</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"Let but the cheat endure!—She asks not aught beside?"</p> + +<p>What was passing in this poor old head, it was +easy enough to guess—wild as it was, and wide +from the truth. But there was another, which, +though I studied it as long as I could possibly +contrive to do so, wholly baffled me; and yet I +would have given much to know what thoughts +were flitting through that young brain.</p> + +<p>She was a young girl, extremely pretty, with +coal-black hair and eyes, and seated, quite apart +from all, upon a pleasant shady bench in one of +the gardens. Her face was like a fair landscape, +over which passes cloud and sunshine in rapid +succession: for one moment she smiled, and the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">317</a></span> +next seemed preparing to weep; but before a +tear could fall, her fine teeth were again displayed +in an unmeaning smile. O, what could be the +fleeting visions formed that worked her fancy +thus? Could it be memory? Or was the fitful +emotion caused by the galloping vagaries of an +imagination which outstripped the power of reason +to follow it? Or was it none of this, but a +mere meaningless movement of the muscles, that +worked in idle mockery of the intellect that used +to govern them?</p> + +<p>I have sometimes thought it very strange that +people should feel such deep delight in watching +on the stage the representation of the utmost extremity +of human woe that the mind of man can +contrive to place before them; and I have wondered +more, much more, at the gathering together +of thousands and tens of thousands, whenever the +law has doomed that some wretched soul should +be separated by the hand of man from the body +in which it has sinned: but I doubt if my own +intense interest in watching poor human nature +when deprived of reason is not stranger still. I +can in no way account for it; but so it is. I can +never withdraw myself from the contemplation of +a maniac without reluctance; and yet I am always +conscious of painful feelings as long as it lasts, and +perfectly sure that I shall be followed by more +painful feelings still when it is over. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">318</a></span></p> + +<p>It is certain, however, that the comfort, the +tenderness, the care, so evident in every part of +the establishment at Vanves, render the contemplation +of insanity there less painful than I ever +found it elsewhere; and when I saw the air of +healthy physical enjoyment (at least) with which +a large number of the patients prepared to take +their pastime, during their hours of exercise, each +according to his taste or whim, amid the ample +space and well-chosen accessories prepared for +them, I could not but wish that every retreat +fitted up for the reception of this unfortunate +portion of the human race could be arranged on +the same plan and governed by the same principles.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXXIV.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">319</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Riot at the Porte St. Martin.—Prevented by a shower of +Rain.—The Mob in fine weather.—How to stop Emeutes.—Army +of Italy.—Théâtre Français.—Mademoiselle Mars +in Henriette.—Disappearance of Comedy.</p> + +<p>Though Paris is really as quiet at present as +any great city can possibly be, still we continue +to be told regularly every morning, "qu'il y avait +une émeute hier soir à la Porte St. Martin." But +I do assure you that these are very harmless little +pastimes; and though it seldom happens that the +mysterious hour of revolution-hatching passes by +without some arrest taking place, the parties are +always liberated the next morning; it having appeared +clearly at every examination that the juvenile +aggressors, who are seldom above twenty years +of age, are as harmless as a set of croaking bull-frogs +on the banks of the Wabash. The continually +repeated mention, however, of these nightly +meetings, induced two gentlemen of our party to +go to this often-named Porte St. Martin a few +nights ago, in hopes of witnessing the humours of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">320</a></span> +one of these small riotings. But on arriving at +the spot they found it perfectly tranquil—everything +wore the proper stillness of an orderly and +well-protected night. A few military were, however, +hovering near the spot; and of these they +made inquiry as to the cause of a repose so unlike +what was usually supposed to be the state of +this celebrated quarter of the town.</p> + +<p>"Mais ne voyez-vous pas que l'eau tombe, messieurs?" +said the national guard stationed there: +"c'est bien assez pour refroidir le feu de nos républicains. +S'il fait beau demain soir, messieurs, +nous aurons encore notre petit spectacle."</p> + +<p>Determined to know whether there was any +truth in these histories or not, and half suspecting +that the whole thing, as well as the assurance of +the civil <i>militaire</i> to boot, was neither more nor +less than a hoax, they last night, the weather +being remarkably fine, again attempted the adventure, +and with very different success.</p> + +<p>On this occasion, there was, by their description, +as pretty a little riot as heart could wish. +The numbers assembled were stated to be above +four hundred: military, both horse and foot, were +among them; pointed hats were as plenty as +blackberries in September, and "banners waved +without a blast" on the tottering shoulders of little +ragamuffins who had been hired for two sous +apiece to carry them. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">321</a></span></p> + +<p>On this memorable evening, which has really +made a figure this morning in some of the republican +journals, a considerable number of the +most noisy portion of the mob were arrested; +but, on the whole, the military appear to have +dealt very gently with them; and our friends +heard many a crazy burst of artisan eloquence, +which might have easily enough been construed +into treason, answered with no rougher repartee +than a laughing "Vive le Roi!"</p> + +<p>At one point, however, there was a vehement +struggle before a young hero, equipped cap-à-pie +à la Robespierre, could be secured; and while +two of the civic guard were employed in taking +him, a little fellow of about ten years old, +who had a banner as heavy as himself on his +shoulder, and who was probably squire of the +body to the prisoner, stood on tiptoe before him +at the distance of a few feet, roaring "Vive la +République!" as loud as he could bawl.</p> + +<p>Another fellow, apparently of the very lowest +class, was engaged, during the whole time that +the tumult lasted, in haranguing a party that +he had collected round him. His arms were +bare to the shoulders, and his gesticulation exceedingly +violent.</p> + +<p>"Nous avons des droits!" he exclaimed with +great vehemence.... "Nous avons des droits!... +Qui est-ce qui veut les nier?... Nous ne démandons +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">322</a></span> +que la charte.... Qu'ils nous donnent +la charte!"...</p> + +<p>The uproar lasted about three hours, after +which the crowd quietly dispersed; and it is to +be hoped that they may all employ themselves +honestly in their respective callings, till the next +fine evening shall again bring them together in +the double capacity of actors and spectators at the +"petit spectacle."</p> + +<p>The constant repetition of this idle riot seems +now to give little disturbance to any one; and +were it not that the fines and imprisonments so +constantly, and sometimes not very leniently inflicted, +evidently show that they are thought +worth some attention, (though, in fact, this system +appears to produce no effect whatever towards +checking the daring demonstrations of disaffection +manifested by the rabble and their newspaper +supporters,) one might deem this indifference the +result of such sober confidence of strength in the +government, as left them no anxiety whatever +as to anything which this troublesome faction +could achieve.</p> + +<p>Such, I believe, is in fact the feeling of King +Philippe's government: nevertheless, it would +certainly conduce greatly to the well-being of the +people of Paris, if such methods were resorted +to as would effectually and at once put a stop +to such disgraceful scenes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter p6" style="width: 413px;"><a name="illo6" id="illo6"></a> +<img src="images/ill351.jpg" width="413" height="600" alt="Porte St. Martin" /> +<p class="s05">Drawn & Etched by A. Hervieu.</p> +<p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Porte S<sup>t</sup>. Martin</span></p> +<p class="caption s05">London, Published by Richard Bentley, 1835.</p> +</div> + +<p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">323</a></span> +"<span class="smcap">Liberty and Order</span>" is King Philippe's +motto: he could only improve it by adding +"Repose and Quiet;" for never can he reign by +any other power than that given by the hope of +repose and tranquillity. The harassed nation +looks to him for these blessings; and if it be disappointed, +the result must be terrible.</p> + +<p>Louis-Philippe is neither Napoleon nor Charles +the Tenth. He has neither the inalienable rights +of the one, nor the overpowering glory of the +other; but should he be happy enough to discover +a way of securing to this fine but strife-worn +and weary country the tranquil prosperity +that it now appears beginning to enjoy, he may +well be considered by the French people as +greater than either.</p> + +<p>Bold, fearless, wise, and strong must be the +hand that at the present hour can so wield the +sceptre of France; and I think it may reasonably +be doubted if any one could so wield it, unless +its first act were to wave off to a safe distance +some of the reckless spirits who are ready to lay +down their lives on the scaffold—or in a gutter—or +over a pan of charcoal, rather than "live peaceably +in that state of life unto which it has pleased +God to call them."</p> + +<p>If King Louis-Philippe would undertake a crusade +to restore independence to Italy, he might +convert every traitor into a hero. Let him address +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">324</a></span> +the army raised for the purpose in the +same inspiring words that Napoleon used of yore. +"Soldats!... Partons! Rétablir le capitole.... +Réveiller le peuple romain engourdi par +plusieurs siècles d'esclavage.... Tel sera le fruit +de vos victoires. Vous rentrerez alors dans vos +foyers, et vos concitoyens diront en vous montrant—Il +était de l'armée d'Italie!" And then let him +institute a new order, entitled "L'Ordre Impérial +de la Redingote grise," or "L'Ordre indomptable +des Bras croisés," and accord to every man the +right of admission to it, with the honour to boot +of having an eagle embroidered on the breast of +his coat if he conducted himself gallantly and +like a Frenchman in the field of battle, and we +should soon find the Porte St. Martin as quiet as +the Autocrat's dressing-room at St. Petersburg.</p> + +<p>If such an expedient as this were resorted to, +there would no longer be any need of that indecent +species of safety-valve by which the noxious +vapour generated by the ill-disposed part of the +community is now permitted to escape. It may +be very great, dignified, and high-minded for a +king and his ministers to laugh at treasonable +caricatures and seditious pleasantries of all sorts,—but +I do greatly doubt the wisdom of it. Human +respect is necessary for the maintenance +and support of human authority; and that respect +will be more profitably shown by a decent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">325</a></span> +degree of general external deference, than by the +most sublime kindlings of individual admiration +that ever warmed the heart of a courtier. This +"<i>avis au lecteur</i>" might be listened to with advantage, +perhaps, in more countries than one.</p> + +<p>Since I last gave you any theatrical news, we +have been to see Mademoiselle Mars play the +part of Henriette in Molière's exquisite comedy +of "Les Femmes Savantes;" and I really think it +the most surprising exhibition I ever witnessed. +Having seen her in "Tartuffe" and "Charlotte +Brown" from a box in the first circle, at some +distance from the stage, I imagined that the distance +had a good deal to do with the effect still +produced by the grace of form, movement, and +toilet of this extraordinary woman.</p> + +<p>To ascertain, therefore, how much was delusion +and how much was truth in the beauty I still +saw or fancied, I resolved upon the desperate +experiment of securing that seat in the balcony +which is nearest to the stage. It was from this +place that I saw her play Henriette; a character +deriving no aid whatever from trick or stage +effect of any kind; one, too, whose charm lies +wholly in simple, unaffected youthfulness: there +are no flashes of wit, no startling hits either of +pathos or pleasantry—nothing but youth, gentleness, +modesty, and tenderness—nothing but a +young girl of sixteen, rather more quiet and retiring +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">326</a></span> +than usual. Yet this character, which seems +of necessity to require youth and beauty in the +performer, though little else, was personated by +this miraculous old lady in a manner that not +only enchanted me—being, as I am, <i>rococo</i>—but +actually drew forth from the omnipotent <i>jeunes +gens</i> in the <i>parterre</i> such clamorous rapture of +applause as must, I think, have completely overset +any actress less used to it than herself. Is +not this marvellous?</p> + +<p>How much it is to be regretted that the art of +writing comedy has passed away! They have +vaudevilles here—charming things in their way; +and we have farces at home that certainly cannot +be thought of without enjoying the gratification +of a broad grin. But for comedy, where the intellect +is called upon as well as the muscles, it is +dead and gone. The "Hunchback" is perhaps the +nearest approach to it, whose birth I remember +in our country, and "Bertrand and Raton" here; +but in both cases the pleasurable excitement is +produced more by the plot than the characters—more +by the business of the scene than by the +wit and elegance of the dialogue, except perhaps +in the pretty wilfulness of Julia in the second +act of the "Hunchback." But even here I suspect +it was more the playful grace of the enchanting +actress who first appeared in the part, than anything +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">327</a></span> +in the words "set down for her," which so +delighted us.</p> + +<p>We do now and then get a new tragedy,—witness +"Fazio" and "Rienzi;" but Comedy—genuine, +easy, graceful, flowing, talking Comedy—is +dead: I think she followed Sheridan to the grave +and was buried with him! But never is one so +conscious of the loss, or so inclined to mourn it, +as after seeing a comedy of Molière's of the first +order,—for his pieces should be divided into +classes, like diamonds. What a burst of new enjoyment +would rush over all England, or all +France, if a thing like "The School for Scandal" +or "Les Femmes Savantes" were to appear before +them!</p> + +<p>Fancy the delight of sitting to hear wit—wit +that one did not know by rote, bright, sparkling, +untasted as yet by any—new and fresh from the +living fountain!—not coming to one in the shape +of coin, already bearing the lawful stamp of ten +thousand plaudits to prove it genuine, and to +refuse to accept which would be treason; but as +native gold, to which the touchstone of your own +intellect must be applied to test its worth! Shall +we ever experience this?</p> + +<p>It is strange that the immense mass of material +for comedy which the passing scenes of this singular +epoch furnish should not be worked up by +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">328</a></span> +some one. Molière seems not to have suffered +a single passing folly to escape him. Had he +lived in these days, what delicious whigs, radicals, +"penny-rint" kings, from our side of the water,—what +tragic poets, republicans, and parvenus from +his own, would he have cheered us withal!</p> + +<p>Rousseau says, that when a theatre produces +pieces which represent the real manners of the +people, they must greatly assist those who are +present at them to see and amend what is vicious +or absurd in themselves, "comme on ôte devant +un miroir les taches de son visage." The idea is +excellent; and surely there never was a time +when it would be so easy or so useful to put it +in practice. Would the gods but send a Sheridan +to England and a Molière to France, we might +yet live to see some of our worst misfortunes +turned to jest, and, like the man choking in a +quinsey, laugh ourselves into health again.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXXV.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">329</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Soirée dansante.—Young Ladies.—Old Ladies.—Anecdote.—The +Consolations of Chaperones.—Flirtations.—Discussion +upon the variations between young Married Women +in France and in England.—Making love by deputy.—Not +likely to answer in England.</p> + +<p>Last night we were at a ball,—or rather, I +should say, a "<i>soirée dansante</i>;" for at this season, +though people may dance from night to morning, +there are no balls. But let it be called by what +name it may, it could not have been more gay +and agreeable were this the month of January +instead of May.</p> + +<p>There were several English gentlemen present, +who, to the great amusement of some of the +company, uniformly selected their partners from +among the young ladies. This may appear very +natural to you; but here it is thought the most +unnatural proceeding possible.</p> + +<p>To a novice in French society, there is certainly +no circumstance so remarkable as the different +position which the unmarried hold in the +drawing-rooms of England and <i>les salons</i> of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">330</a></span> +France. With us, the prettiest things to look at, +and the partners first sought for the dance, are +the young girls. Brilliant in the perfection of +their youthful bloom, graceful and gay as young +fawns in every movement of the most essentially +juvenile of all exercises, and eclipsing the light +elegance of their own toilet by loveliness that +leaves no eyes to study its decoration,—it is +they who, in spite of diamonds and of blonde, of +wedded beauty or of titled grace, ever appear +to be the principal actors in a ball-room. But +"they manage these matters" quite otherwise +"in France."</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, it may sometimes happen among +us, that a coquettish matron may be seen to lead +the giddy waltz with more sprightliness than +wisdom; but she always does it at the risk of +being <i>mal notée</i> in some way or other, more or +less gravely, by almost every person present;—nay, +I would by no means encourage her to be +very certain that her tonish partner himself would +not be better pleased to whirl round the mazy +circle with one of the slight, light, sylph-like +creatures he sees flying past him, than with the +most fashionable married woman in London.</p> + +<p>But in Paris all this is totally reversed; and, +what is strange enough, you will find in both +countries that the reason assigned for the difference +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">331</a></span> +between them arises from national attention +to good morals.</p> + +<p>On entering a French ball-room, instead of seeing +the youngest and loveliest part of the company +occupying the most conspicuous places, surrounded +by the gayest men, and dressed with the +most studied and becoming elegance, you must +look for the young things quite in the background, +soberly and quietly attired, and almost +wholly eclipsed behind the more fully-blown beauties +of their married friends.</p> + +<p>It is really marvellous, considering how very +much prettier a girl is at eighteen than she can +possibly be some dozen years afterwards, to see +how completely fashion will nevertheless have its +own way, making the worse positively appear the +better beauty.</p> + +<p>All that exceeding charm and fascination which +is for ever and always attributed to an elegant +Frenchwoman, belongs wholly, solely, and altogether +to her after she becomes a wife. A young +French girl, "<i>parfaitement bien élevée</i>," looks ... +"<i>parfaitement bien élevée</i>;" but it must be confessed, +also, that she looks at the same time as +if her governess (and a sharp one) were looking +over her shoulder. She will be dressed, of course, +with the nicest precision and most exact propriety; +her corsets will forbid a wrinkle to appear +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">332</a></span> +in her robe, and her <i>friseur</i> deny permission to +any single hair that might wish to deviate from +the station appointed for it by his stiff control. +But if you would see that graceful perfection of +the toilet, that unrivalled <i>agacerie</i> of costume +which distinguishes a French woman from all +others in the world, you must turn from mademoiselle +to madame. The very sound of the +voice, too, is different. It should seem as if the +heart and soul of a French girl were asleep, or +at least dozing, till the ceremony of marriage +awakened them. As long as it is mademoiselle +who speaks, there is something monotonous, dull, +and uninteresting in the tone, or rather in the +tune, of her voice; but when madame addresses +you, all the charm that manner, cadence, accent +can bestow, is sure to greet you.</p> + +<p>In England, on the contrary, of all the charms +peculiar to youthful loveliness, I know none so +remarkable as the unconstrained, fresh, natural, +sweet, and joyous sound of a young girl's voice. +It is as delicious as the note of the lark, when +rising in the first freshness of morning to meet +the sun. It is not restrained, held in, and checked +into tameness by any fear lest it should too +early show its syren power.</p> + +<p>Even in the dance itself, the very arena for +the display of youthful gracefulness, the young +French girl fails, when her well-taught steps are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">333</a></span> +compared with the easy, careless, fascinating +movements of the married woman.</p> + +<p>In the simple kindness of manner too, which, +if there were no other attraction, would ever +suffice to render an unaffected, good-natured +young girl charming, there must be here a cautious +restraint. A <i>demoiselle Française</i> would be +prevented by <i>bienséance</i> from showing it, were she +the gentlest-hearted creature breathing.</p> + +<p>A young Englishman of my acquaintance, who, +though he had been a good deal in French society, +was not initiated into the mysteries of female +education, recounted to me the other day an adventure +of his, which is german to the matter, +though not having much to do with our last +night's ball. This young man had for a long +time been very kindly received in a French family, +had repeatedly dined with them, and, in +fact, considered himself as admitted to their house +on the footing of an intimate friend.</p> + +<p>The only child of this family was a daughter, +rather pretty, but cold, silent, and repulsive in +manner—almost awkward, and utterly uninteresting. +Every attempt to draw her into conversation +had ever proved abortive; and though often +in her company, the Englishman hardly thought +she could consider him as an acquaintance.</p> + +<p>The young man returned to England; but, after +some months, again revisited Paris. While standing +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">334</a></span> +one day in earnest contemplation of a picture +at the Louvre, he was startled at being suddenly +addressed by an extremely beautiful woman, who +in the kindest and most friendly manner imaginable +asked him a multitude of questions—made a +thousand inquiries after his health—invited him +earnestly to come and see her, and concluded by +exclaiming—"Mais c'est un siècle depuis que je +vous ai vu."</p> + +<p>My friend stood gazing at her with equal admiration +and surprise. He began to remember +that he had seen her before, but when or where +he knew not. She saw his embarrassment and +smiled. "Vous m'avez oublié donc?" said she. +"Je m'appelle Eglé de P——.... Mais je suis +mariée...."</p> + +<p>But to return to our ball.</p> + +<p>As I saw the married women taken out to +dance one after the another, till at last there was +not a single dancing-looking man left, I felt myself +getting positively angry; for, notwithstanding +the assistance given by my ignorant countrymen, +there were still at least half a dozen French girls +unprovided with chevaliers.</p> + +<p>They did not, however, look by many degrees +so sadly disappointed as English girls would do +did the same misfortune betide them. They, like +the poor eels, were used to it; and the gentlemen, +too, were cruelly used to the task of torture,—making +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">335</a></span> +their pretty little feet beat time upon the +floor, while they watched the happy wedded in +pairs—not wedded pairs—swim before their eyes +in mazes which they would most gladly have +threaded after them.</p> + +<p>When at length all the married ladies, young +and old, were duly provided for, several staid +and very respectable-looking gentlemen emerged +from corners and sofas, and presenting themselves +to the young expectants, were accepted with quiet, +grateful smiles, and permitted to lead them to the +dance.</p> + +<p>Old ladies like myself, whose fate attaches +them to the walls of a ball-room, are accustomed +to find their consolation and amusement from +various sources. First, they enjoy such conversation +as they can catch; or, if they will sit tolerably +silent, they may often hear the prettiest airs +of the season exceedingly well played. Then the +whole arena of twinkling feet is open to their +criticism and admiration. Another consolation, +and frequently a very substantial one, is found in +the supper;—nay, sometimes a passing ice will be +caught to cheer the weary watcher. But there is +another species of amusement, the general avowal +of which might lead the younger part of the civilized +world to wish that old ladies wore blinkers: +I allude to the quiet contemplation of half a dozen +sly flirtations that may be going on around them,—some +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">336</a></span> +so well managed! ... some so clumsily!</p> + +<p>But upon all these occasions, in England, though +well-behaved old ladies will always take especial +care not so to see that their seeing shall be seen, +they still look about them with no feeling of restraint—no +consciousness that they would rather +be anywhere else than spectators of what is +going forward near them. They feel, at least +I am sure I do, a very comfortable assurance +that the fair one is engaged, not in marring, but +in making her fortune. Here again I may quote +the often-quoted, and say, "They manage all +these matters differently at least, if not better, in +France."</p> + +<p>In England, if a woman is seen going through +all the manœuvres of the flirting exercise, from +the first animating reception of the "How d'ye +do?" to the last soft consciousness which fixes +the eyes immovably on the floor, while the head, +gently inclined, seems willing to indulge the happy +ear in receiving intoxicating draughts of <i>parfait +amour</i>,—when this is seen in England, even +should the lady be past eighteen, one feels assured +that she is not married; but here, without +scandal or the shadow of scandal be it spoken, +one feels equally well assured that she is. She +may be a widow—or she may flirt in the innocence +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">337</a></span> +of her heart, because it is the fashion; but she +cannot do it, because she is a young lady intending +to be married.</p> + +<p>I was deeply engaged in these speculations last +night, when an elderly lady—who for some reason +or other, not very easy to divine, actually never +waltzes—came across the room and placed herself +by my side. Though she does not waltz, she +is a very charming person; and as I had often +conversed with her before, I now welcomed her +approach with great pleasure.</p> + +<p>"A quoi pensez-vous, Madame Trollope?" said +she: "vous avez l'air de méditer."</p> + +<p>I deliberated for a moment whether I should +venture to tell her exactly what was passing in +my mind; but as I deliberated, I looked at her, +and there was that in her countenance which +assured me I should have no severity to fear if I +put her wholly in my confidence: I therefore replied +very frankly,—</p> + +<p>"I am meditating; and it is on the position +which unmarried women hold in France."</p> + +<p>"Unmarried women?... You will scarcely +find any such in France," said she.</p> + +<p>"Are not those young ladies who have just +finished their quadrille unmarried?"</p> + +<p>"Ah!... But you cannot call them unmarried +women. <i>Elles sont des demoiselles.</i>" +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">338</a></span></p> + +<p>"Well, then, my meditations were concerning +them."</p> + +<p>"Eh bien...."</p> + +<p>"Eh bien.... It appears to me that the ball is +not given—that the music does not play—that the +gentlemen are not <i>empressé</i>, for them."</p> + +<p>"No, certainly. It would be quite contrary +to our ideas of what is right if it were so."</p> + +<p>"With us it is so different!... It is always +the young ladies who are, at least, the ostensible +heroines of every ball-room."</p> + +<p>"The ostensible heroines?"... She dwelt +rather strongly upon the adjective, adding with a +smile,—"Our ostensible, are our real heroines +upon these occasions."</p> + +<p>I explained. "The real heroines," said I, +"will, I confess, in cases of ostentation and display, +be sometimes the ladies who give balls in return."</p> + +<p>"Well explained," said she, laughing: "I certainly +thought you had another meaning. You +think, then," she continued, "that our young +married women are made of too much importance +among us?"</p> + +<p>"Oh no!" I replied eagerly: "it is, in my +opinion, almost impossible to make them of too +much importance; for I believe that it is entirely +upon their influence that the tone of society depends."</p> + +<p>"You are quite right. It is impossible for those +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">339</a></span> +who have lived as long as we have in the world +to doubt it: but how can this be, if, upon the +occasions which bring people together, they are to +be overlooked, while young girls who have as yet +no position fixed are brought forward instead?"</p> + +<p>"But surely, being brought forward to dance in +a waltz or quadrille, is not the sort of consequence +which we either of us mean?"</p> + +<p>"Perhaps not; but it is one of its necessary +results. Our women marry young,—as soon, in +fact, as their education is finished, and before +they have been permitted to enter the world, or +share in the pleasures of it. Their destiny, therefore, +instead of being the brightest that any women +enjoy, would be the most <i>triste</i>, were they +forbidden to enter into the amusements so natural +to their age and national character, because they +were married."</p> + +<p>"But may there not be danger in the custom +which throws young females, thus early and irrevocably +engaged, for the first time into the society, +and, as it were, upon the attentions of men whom +it has already become their duty not to consider +as too amiable?"</p> + +<p>"Oh no!... If a young woman be well-disposed, +it is not a quadrille, or a waltz either, that +will lead her astray. If it could, it would surely +be the duty of all the legislators of the earth to +forbid the exercise for ever." +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">340</a></span></p> + +<p>"No, no, no!" said I earnestly; "I mean nothing +of the kind, I assure you: on the contrary, +I am so convinced, from the recollections of my +own feelings, and my observations on those of +others, that dancing is not a fictitious, but a +real, natural source of enjoyment, the inclination +for which is inherent in us, that, instead of wishing +it to be forbidden, I would, had I the power, +make it infinitely more general and of more frequent +occurrence than it is: young people should +never meet each other without the power of +dancing if they wished it."</p> + +<p>"And from this animating pleasure, for which +you confess that there is a sort of <i>besoin</i> within +us, you would exclude all the young women +above seventeen—because they are married?... +Poor things!... Instead of finding them so willing +as they generally are to enter on the busy +scenes of life, I think we should have great difficulty +in getting their permission to <i>monter un +ménage</i> for them. Marriage would be soon held +in abhorrence if such were its laws."</p> + +<p>"I would not have them such, I assure you," +replied I, rather at a loss how to explain myself +fully without saying something that might either +be construed into coarseness of thinking and a +cruel misdoubting of innocence, or else into a +very uncivil attack upon the national manners: +I was therefore silent. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">341</a></span></p> + +<p>My companion seemed to expect that I should +proceed, but after a short interval resumed the +conversation by saying,—"Then what arrangement +would you propose, to reconcile the necessity +of dancing with the propriety of keeping married +women out of the danger which you seem to imagine +might arise from it?"</p> + +<p>"It would be too national were I to reply, that +I think our mode of proceeding in this case is +exactly what it ought to be."</p> + +<p>"But such is your opinion?"</p> + +<p>"To speak sincerely, I believe it is."</p> + +<p>"Will you then have the kindness to explain +to me the difference in this respect between +France and England?"</p> + +<p>"The only difference between us which I +mean to advocate is, that with us the amusement +which throws young people together under +circumstances the most likely, perhaps, to elicit +expressions of gallantry and admiration from the +men, and a gracious reception of them from the +women, is considered as befitting the single rather +than the married part of the community."</p> + +<p>"With us, indeed, it is exactly the reverse," replied +she,—"at least as respects the young ladies. +By addressing the idle, unmeaning gallantry inspired +by the dance to a young girl, we should +deem the cautious delicacy of restraint in which +she is enshrined transgressed and broken in +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">342</a></span> +upon. A young girl should be given to her +husband before her passions have been awakened +or her imagination excited by the voice of +gallantry."</p> + +<p>"But when she is given to him, do you think +this process more desirable than before?"</p> + +<p>"Certainly it is not desirable; but it is infinitely +less dangerous. When a girl is first +married, her feelings, her thoughts, her imagination +are wholly occupied by her husband. +Her mode of education has ensured this; and +afterwards, it is at the choice of her husband +whether he will secure and retain her young +heart for himself. If he does this, it is not a +waltz or quadrille that will rob him of it. In +no country have husbands so little reason to +complain of their wives as in France; for in no +country does the manner in which they live with +them depend so wholly on themselves. With +you, if your novels, and even the strange trials +made public to all the world by your newspapers, +may be trusted, the very reverse is the case. +Previous attachments—early affection broken off +before the marriage, to be renewed after it—these +are the histories we hear and read; and +most assuredly they do not tempt us to adopt +your system as an amendment upon our own."</p> + +<p>"The very notoriety of the cases to which +you allude proves their rare occurrence," replied I. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">343</a></span> +"Such sad histories would have but little interest +for the public, either as tales or trials, if they +did not relate circumstances marked and apart +from ordinary life."</p> + +<p>"Assuredly. But you will allow also that, +however rare they may be in England, such +records of scandal and of shame are rarer still +in France?"</p> + +<p>"Occurrences of the kind do not perhaps produce +so much sensation here," said I.</p> + +<p>"Because they are more common, you would +say. Is not that your meaning?" and she smiled +reproachfully.</p> + +<p>"It certainly was not my meaning to say so," +I replied; "and, in truth, it is neither a useful +nor a gracious occupation to examine on which +side the Channel the greater proportion of virtue +may be found; though it is possible some good +might be done on both, were the education in +each country to be modified by the introduction +of what is best in the other."</p> + +<p>"I have no doubt of it," said she; "and as we +go on exchanging fashions so amicably, who knows +but we may live to see your young ladies shut up +a little more, while their mothers and fathers look +out for a suitable marriage for them, instead of +inflicting the awkward task upon themselves? +And in return, perhaps, our young wives may lay +aside their little coquetries and become <i>mères respectables</i> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">344</a></span> +somewhat earlier than they do now. +But, in truth, they all come to it at last."</p> + +<p>As she finished speaking these words, a new +waltz sounded, and again a dozen couples, some +ill, some well matched, swam past us. One of +the pairs was composed of a very fine-looking +young man, with blue-black <i>favoris</i> and <i>moustaches</i>, +tall as a tower, and seeming, if air and +expression may be trusted, very tolerably well +pleased with himself. His <i>danseuse</i> might unquestionably +have addressed her husband, who +sat at no great distance from us, drawing up +his gouty feet under his chair to let her pass, +in these touching words:—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1"> +"Full thirty times hath Phœbus' cart gone round</p> +<p>Neptune's salt wash and Tellus' orbed ground,</p> +<p>And thirty dozen moons, with borrow'd sheen,</p> +<p>About the world have times twelve thirties been,</p> +<p>Since Love our hearts and Hymen did our hands</p> +<p>Unite commutual in most sacred bands."</p> +</div> + +<p>My neighbour and I looked up and exchanged +glances as they went by. We both laughed.</p> + +<p>"At least you will allow," said she, "that this +is one of the cases in which a married lady may +indulge her passion for the dance without danger +of consequences?"</p> + +<p>"I am not quite sure of that," replied I. "If +she be not found guilty of sin, she will scarcely +obtain a verdict that shall acquit her of folly. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">345</a></span> +But what can induce that magnificent personage, +who looks down upon her as if engaged in measuring +the distance between them—what could +induce him to request the honour of enclosing her +venerable waist in his arm?"</p> + +<p>"Nothing more easily explained. That little +fair girl sitting in yonder corner, with her hair +so tightly drawn off her forehead, is her daughter—her +only daughter, and will have a noble <i>dot</i>. +Now you understand it?... And tell me, in case +his speculation should not succeed, is it not better +that this excellent lady, who waltzes so very +like a duck, should receive all the eloquence with +which he will seek to render himself amiable, +upon her time-steeled heart, than that the delicate +little girl herself should have to listen +to it?"</p> + +<p>"And you really would recommend us to adopt +this mode of love-making by deputy, letting the +mamma be the substitute, till the young lady has +obtained a brevet to listen to the language of love +in her own person? However excellent the scheme +may be, dear lady, it is vain to hope that we shall +ever be able to introduce it among us. The young +ladies, I suspect, would exclaim, as you do here, +when explaining why you cannot permit any +English innovations among you, "Ce n'est pas +dans nos mœurs."</p> + +<hr class="l30" /> + +<p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">346</a></span></p> + +<p>I assure you, my friend, that I have not composed +this conversation <i>à loisir</i> for your amusement, +for I have set down as nearly as possible +what was said to me, though I have not quite +given it all to you; but my letter is already long +enough.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXXVI.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">347</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Improvements of Paris.—Introduction of Carpets and Trottoirs.—Maisonnettes.—Not +likely to answer in Paris.—The +necessity of a Porter and Porter's Lodge.—-Comparative +Expenses of France and England.—Increasing +Wealth of the Bourgeoisie.</p> + +<p>Among the many recent improvements in Paris +which evidently owe their origin to England, those +which strike the eye first, are the almost universal +introduction of carpets within doors, and the frequent +blessing of a <i>trottoir</i> without. In a few +years, unless all paving-stones should be torn up +in search of more immortality, there can be no +doubt that it will be almost as easy to walk in +Paris as in London. It is true that the old streets +are not quite wide enough to admit such enormous +esplanades on each side as Regent and Oxford +Streets; but all that is necessary to safety and comfort +may be obtained with less expense of space; +and to those who knew Paris a dozen years ago, +when one had to hop from stone to stone in the +fond hope of escaping wet shoes in the Dog-days—tormented +too during the whole of this +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">348</a></span> +anxious process with the terror of being run over +by carts, fiacres, concous, cabs, and wheelbarrows;—whoever +remembers what it was to walk in Paris +then, will bless with an humble and grateful spirit +the dear little pavement which, with the exception +of necessary intervals to admit of an approach to +the portes-cochère of the various <i>hôtels</i>, and a few +short intervals beside, which appear to have been +passed over and forgotten, borders most of the +principal streets of Paris now.</p> + +<p>Another English innovation, infinitely more important +in all ways, has been attempted, and has +failed. This was the endeavour to introduce +<i>maisonnettes</i>, or small houses calculated for the +occupation of one family. A few such have been +built in that new part of the town which stretches +away in all directions behind the Madeleine; but +they are not found to answer—and that for many +reasons which I should have thought it very easy +to foresee, and which I suspect it would be very +difficult to obviate.</p> + +<p>In order to come at all within reach of the +generality of French incomes, they must be built +on too small a scale to have any good rooms; and +this is a luxury, and permits a species of display, +to which many are accustomed who live in unfurnished +apartments, for which they give perhaps +fifteen hundred or two thousand francs a year. +Another accommodation which habit has made it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">349</a></span> +extremely difficult for French families to dispense +with, and which can be enjoyed at an easy price +only by sharing it with many, is a porter and a +porter's lodge. Active as is the race of domestic +servants in Paris, their number must, I think, be +doubled in many families, were the arrangement +of the porter's lodge to be changed for our system +of having a servant summoned every time a parcel, +a message, a letter, or a visit arrives at the house.</p> + +<p>Nor does the taking charge of these by any +means comprise the whole duty of this servant of +many masters; neither am I at all competent to +say exactly what does: but it seems to me that the +answer I generally receive upon desiring that anything +may be done is, "Oui, madame, le portier +ou la portière fera cela;" and were we suddenly +deprived of these factotums, I suspect that we +should be immediately obliged to leave our apartments +and take refuge in an hôtel, for I should be +quite at a loss to know what or how many additional +"helps" would be necessary to enable us +to exist without them.</p> + +<p>That the whole style and manner of domestic +existence throughout all the middling classes of +such a city as Paris should hang upon their +porters' lodges, seems tracing great effects to little +causes; but I have been so repeatedly told that +the failure of the <i>maisonnettes</i> has in a great degree +arisen from this, that I cannot doubt it. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">350</a></span></p> + +<p>I know not whether anything which prevents +their so completely changing their mode of life as +they must do if living in separate houses, is to be +considered as an evil or not. The Parisians are a +very agreeable, and apparently a very happy population; +and who can say what effect the quiet, +steady, orderly mode of each man having a small +house of his own might produce? What is admirable +as a component part of one character, is +often incongruous and disagreeable when met in +another; and I am by no means certain if the +snug little mansion which might be procured for +the same rent as a handsome apartment, would +not tend to circumscribe and tame down the light +spirits that now send <i>locataires</i> of threescore +springing to their elegant <i>premier</i> by two stairs at +a time. And the prettiest and best <i>chaussés</i> little +feet in the world too, which now trip <i>sans souci</i> +over the common stair, would they not lag painfully +perhaps in passing through a low-browed +hall, whose neatness or unneatness had become a +private and individual concern? And might not +many a bright fancy be damped while calculating +how much it would cost to have a few statues +and oleanders in it?—and the head set aching by +meditating how to get "ce vilain escalier frotté" +from top to bottom? Yet all these, and many other +cares which they now escape, must fall upon them +if they give up their apartments for <i>maisonnettes</i>. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">351</a></span></p> + +<p>The fact, I believe, is, that French fortunes, +taken at the average at which they at present +stand, could not suffice to procure the pretty elegance +to which the middle classes are accustomed, +unless it were done by the sacrifice of some portion +of that costly fastidiousness which English +people of the same rank seem to cling to as part +of their prerogative.</p> + +<p>Though I am by no means prepared to say that +I should like to exchange my long-confirmed habit +of living in a house of my own for the Parisian +mode of inhabiting apartments, I cannot but allow +that by this and sundry other arrangements a +French income is made to contribute infinitely +more to the enjoyment of its possessor than an +English one.</p> + +<p>Let any English person take the trouble of +calculating, let their revenue be great or small, +how much of it is expended in what immediately +contributes to their personal comfort and luxury, +and how much of it is devoted to the support of +expenses which in point of fact add to neither, and +the truth of this statement will become evident.</p> + +<p>Rousseau says, that "cela se fait," and "cela +ne se fait pas," are the words which regulate +everything that goes on within the walls of Paris. +That the same words have at least equal power +in London, can hardly be denied; and, unfortunately +for our individual independence, obedience +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">352</a></span> +to them costs infinitely more on our side of the +water than it does on this. Hundreds are annually +spent, out of very confined incomes, to +support expenses which have nothing whatever +to do with the personal enjoyment of those who +so tax themselves; but it must be submitted to, +because "cela se fait," or "cela ne se fait pas." +In Paris, on the contrary, this imperative phrase +has comparatively no influence on the expenditure +of any revenue, because every one's object is not +to make it appear that he is as rich as his neighbour, +but to make his means, be they great or +small, contribute as much as possible to the enjoyment +and embellishment of his existence.</p> + +<p>It is for this reason that a residence in Paris +is found so favourable an expedient in cases of +diminished or insufficient fortune. A family coming +hither in the hope of obtaining the mere necessaries +of life at a much cheaper rate than in +England would be greatly disappointed: some +articles are cheaper, but many are considerably +dearer; and, in truth, I doubt if at the present +moment anything that can be strictly denominated +a necessary of life is to be found cheaper +in Paris than in London.</p> + +<p>It is not the necessaries, but the luxuries of +life that are cheaper here. Wine, ornamental furniture, +the keep of horses, the price of carriages, +the entrance to theatres, wax-lights, fruit, books, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">353</a></span> +the rent of handsome apartments, the wages of +men-servants, are all greatly cheaper, and direct +taxes greatly less. But even this is not the chief +reason why a residence in Paris may be found +economical to persons of any pretension to rank +or style at home. The necessity for parade, so +much the most costly of all the appendages to +rank, may here be greatly dispensed with, and that +without any degradation whatever. In short, +the advantage of living in Paris as a matter of +economy depends entirely upon the degree of +luxury to be obtained. There are certainly many +points of delicacy and refinement in the English +manner of living which I should be very sorry +to see given up as national peculiarities; but +I think we should gain much in many ways +could we learn to hang our consequence less upon +the comparison of what others do. We shudder +at the cruel madness of the tyrant who would +force every form to reach one standard; but +those are hardly less mad who insist that every +one, to live <i>comme il faut</i>, must live, or appear +to live, exactly as others do, though the means +of doing so may vary among the silly set so +prescribed to, from an income that may justify +any extravagance to one that can honestly supply +none.</p> + +<p>This is a folly of incalculably rarer occurrence +here than in England; and it certainly is no +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">354</a></span> +proof of the good sense of our "most thinking +people," that for one private family brought to +ruin by extravagance in France, there are fifty +who suffer from this cause in England.</p> + +<p>It is easy to perceive that our great wealth +has been the cause of this. The general scale of +expense has been set so high, that thousands who +have lived in reference to that, rather than to +their individual fortunes, have been ruined by the +blunder; and I really know no remedy so likely +to cure the evil as a residence in Paris; not, however, +so much as a means of saving money, as of +making a series of experiments which may teach +them how to make the best and most enjoyable +use of it.</p> + +<p>I am persuaded, that if it were to become as +much the fashion to imitate the French independence +of mind in our style of living, as it +now is to copy them in ragoûts, bonnets, moustaches, +and or-molu, we should greatly increase +our stock of real genuine enjoyment. If no English +lady should ever again feel a pang at her heart +because she saw more tall footmen in her neighbour's +hall than in her own—if no sighs were +breathed in secret in any club-house or at any +sale, because Jack Somebody's stud was a cut +above us—if no bills were run up at Gunter's, or +at Howell and James's, because it was worse than +death to be outdone,—we should unquestionably be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">355</a></span> +a happier and a more respectable people than we +are at present.</p> + +<p>It is, I believe, pretty generally acknowledged +by all parties, that the citizens of France have +become a more money-getting generation since +the last revolution than they ever were before it. +The security and repose which the new dynasty +seems to have brought with it, have already given +them time and opportunity to multiply their capital; +and the consequence is, that the shop-keeping +propensities with which Napoleon used +to reproach us have crossed the Channel, and are +beginning to produce very considerable alterations +here.</p> + +<p>It is evident that the wealth of the <i>bourgeoisie</i> +is rapidly increasing, and their consequence with +it; so rapidly, indeed, that the republicans are +taking fright at it,—they see before them a new +enemy, and begin to talk of the abominations of +an aristocratic <i>bourgeoisie</i>.</p> + +<p>There is, in fact, no circumstance in the whole +aspect of the country more striking or more +favourable than this new and powerful impulse +given to trade. It is the best ballast that the +vessel of the state can have; and if they can +but contrive that nothing shall happen to occasion +its being thrown overboard, it may suffice +to keep her steady, whatever winds may +blow. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">356</a></span></p> + +<p>The wide-spreading effect of this increasing +wealth among the <i>bourgeoisie</i> is visible in many +ways, but in none more than in the rapid increase +of handsome dwellings, which are springing +up, as white and bright as new-born mushrooms, +in the north-western division of Paris. This is +quite a new world, and reminds me of the early +days of Russell Square, and all the region about +it. The Church of the Madeleine, instead of +being, as I formerly remember it, nearly at the +extremity of Paris, has now a new city behind it; +and if things go on at the same rate at which +they seem to be advancing at present, we shall +see it, or at least our children will, occupying as +central a position as St. Martin's-in-the-Fields. +An excellent market, called Marché de la Madeleine, +has already found its way to this new town; +and I doubt not that churches, theatres, and restaurans +innumerable will speedily follow.</p> + +<p>The capital which is now going so merrily on, +increasing with almost American rapidity, will +soon ask to be invested; and when this happens, +Paris will be seen running out of town with the +same active pace that London has done before +her; and twenty years hence the Bois de Boulogne +may very likely be as thickly peopled as +the Regent's Park is now.</p> + +<p>This sudden accession of wealth has already +become the cause of a great increase in the price +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">357</a></span> +of almost every article sold in Paris; and if this +activity of commerce continue, it is more than +probable, that the hitherto moderate fortunes of +the Parisian <i>boursier</i> and merchant will grow into +something resembling the colossal capitals of England, +and we shall find that the same causes which +have hitherto made England dear will in future +prevent France from being cheap. It will then +happen, that many deficiencies which are now perceptible, +and which furnish the most remarkable +points of difference between the two countries, will +disappear; great wealth being in many instances +all that is required to make a French family live +very much like an English one. Whether they +will not, when this time arrives, lose on the side +of unostentatious enjoyment more than they will +gain by increased splendour, may, I think, be very +doubtful. For my own part, I am decidedly of opinion, +that as soon as heavy ceremonious dinners +shall systematically take place of the present easy, +unexpensive style of visiting, Paris will be more +than half spoiled, and the English may make up +their minds to remain proudly and pompously at +home, lest, instead of a light and lively contrast +to their own ways, they may chance to find a +heavy but successful rivalry.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXXVII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">358</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Horrible Murder.—La Morgue.—Suicides.—Vanity.—Anecdote.—Influence +of Modern Literature.—Different +appearance of Poverty in France and England.</p> + +<p>We have been made positively sick and miserable +by the details of a murder, which seems +to show that we live in a world where there are +creatures ten thousand times more savage than +any beast that ranges the forest,</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1"> +"Be it ounce, or cat, or bear,</p> +<p>Pard, or boar with bristled hair."</p> +</div> + +<p>This horror was perpetrated on the person of a +wretched female, who appeared, by the mangled +remains which were found in the river, to have +been very young. But though thus much was +discovered, it was many days ere, among the thousands +who flocked to the Morgue to look at the +severed head and mangled limbs, any one could +be found to recognise the features. At length, +however, the person with whom she had lodged +came to see if she could trace any resemblance +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">359</a></span> +between her lost inmate and these wretched relics +of a human being.</p> + +<p>She so far succeeded as to convince herself of +the identity; though her means of judging appeared +to be so little satisfactory, that few placed +any reliance upon her testimony. Nevertheless, +she at length succeeded in having a man taken +up, who had lived on intimate terms with the +poor creature whose sudden disappearance had +induced this woman to visit the Morgue when +the description of this mangled body reached her. +He immediately confessed the deed, in the spirit, +though not in the words, of the poet:—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1">"Mourons: de tant d'horreurs qu'un trépas me délivre!</p> +<p>Est-ce un malheur si grand que de cesser de vivre?</p> + +<hr class="l30" /> + +<p>Je ne crains pas le nom que je laisse après moi."</p> +</div> + +<p>The peculiarly horrid manner in which the +crime was committed, and the audacious style +in which the criminal appears to brave justice, +will, it is thought, prevent any <i>extenuating circumstances</i> +being pleaded, as is usually done, for +the purpose of commuting the punishment of +death into imprisonment with enforced labour. +It is generally expected that this atrocious murderer +will be guillotined, notwithstanding the +averseness of the government to capital punishment. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">360</a></span></p> + +<p>The circumstances are, indeed, hideous in all +ways, and the more so from being mixed up +with what is miscalled the tender passion. The +cannibal fury which sets a man to kill his foe +that he may eat him, has fully as much tenderness +in it as this species of affection.</p> + +<p>When "the passion is made up of nothing but +the finest parts of love," it may, perhaps, deserve +the epithet of tender; but we have heard of late +of so many horrible and deliberate assassinations, +originating in what newspapers are pleased to +call "<i>une grande passion</i>" that the first idea +which a love-story now suggests to me is, that +the sequel will in all probability be murder "most +foul, strange, and unnatural!"</p> + +<p>Is there in any language a word that can raise +so many shuddering sensations as "<i>La Morgue</i>?" +Hatred, revenge, murder, are each terrible; but +La Morgue outdoes them all in its power of +bringing together in one syllable the abstract of +whatever is most appalling in crime, poverty, +despair, and death.</p> + +<p>To the ghastly Morgue are conveyed the unowned +dead of every description that are discovered +in or near Paris. The Seine is the great receptacle +which first receives the victims of assassination +or despair; but they are not long permitted +to elude the vigilance of the Parisian police: a +huge net, stretched across the river at St. Cloud, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">361</a></span> +receives and retains whatever the stream brings +down; and anything that retains a trace of human +form which is found amidst the product of +the fearful draught is daily conveyed to La Morgue;—<span class="smcap">daily</span>; +for rarely does it chance that for +four-and-twenty hours its melancholy biers remain +unoccupied; often do eight, ten, a dozen +corpses at a time arrive by the frightful caravan +from "<i>les filets de St. Cloud</i>."</p> + +<p>I have, in common with most people, I believe, +a very strong propensity within me for seeing +everything connected directly or indirectly with +any subject or event which has strongly roused +my curiosity, or interested my feelings; but, +strange to say, I never feel its influence so irresistible +as when something of shuddering horror +is mixed with the spectacle. It is this propensity +which has now induced me to visit this citadel of +death;—this low and solitary roof, placed in the +very centre of moving, living, laughing Paris.</p> + +<p>No visit to a tomb, however solemn or however +sad, can approach in thrilling horror to the sensation +caused by passing the threshold of this charnel-house.</p> + +<p>The tomb calls us to the contemplation of the +common, the inevitable lot; but this gathering +place of sin and death arouses thoughts of all +that most outrages nature, and most foully violates +the sanctuary of life, into which God has +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">362</a></span> +breathed his spirit. But I was steadfast in my +will to visit it, and I have done it.</p> + +<p>The building is a low, square, carefully-whited +structure, situated on the Quai de la Cité. It is +open to all; and it is fearful to think how many +anxious hearts have entered, how many despairing +ones have quitted it.</p> + +<p>On entering I found myself in a sort of low +hall which contained no object whatever. If I +mistake not, there is a chamber on each side of +it: but it was to the left hand that I was led, +and it was thither that about a dozen persons +who entered at the same time either followed +or preceded me. I do not too well remember +how I reached the place where the bodies are +visible; but I know that I stood before one of +three large windows, through the panes of which, +and very near to them, lighted also by windows +in the roof, are seen a range of biers, sloping +towards the spectator at an angle that gives the +countenance as well as the whole figure of the +persons extended on them fully to view.</p> + +<p>In this manner I saw the bodies of four men +stretched out before me; but their aspect bore +no resemblance to death—neither were they +swollen or distorted in any way, but so discoloured +as to give them exactly the appearance +of bronze statues.</p> + +<p>Two out of the four had evidently been murdered, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">363</a></span> +for their heads and throats gave frightful +evidence of the violence that had been practised +upon them; the third was a mere boy, who +probably met his fate by accident: but that the +fourth was a suicide, it was hardly possible to +doubt; even in death his features held the desperate +expression that might best paint the state +of mind likely to lead to such an act.</p> + +<p>It was past mid-day when we entered the +Morgue; but neither of the bodies had yet been +claimed or recognised.</p> + +<p>This spectacle naturally set me upon seeking +information, wherever I was likely to find it, +respecting the average number of bodies thus +exposed within the year, the proportion of them +believed to be suicides, and the causes generally +supposed most influential in producing this dreadful +termination.</p> + +<p>I will not venture to repeat the result of these +inquiries in figures, as I doubt if the information +I received was of that strictly accurate kind +which could justify my doing so; yet it was +quite enough so, to excite both horror and astonishment +at the extraordinary number which +are calculated to perish annually at Paris by self-slaughter.</p> + +<p>In many recent instances, the causes which +have led to these desperate deeds have been +ascertained by the written acknowledgment of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">364</a></span> +the perpetrators themselves, left as a legacy to +mankind. Such a legacy might perhaps not be +wholly unprofitable to the survivors, were it not +that the motives assigned, in almost every instance +where they have been published, have been of so +frivolous and contemptible a nature as to turn +wholesome horror to most ill-placed mirth.</p> + +<p>It can hardly be doubted, from the testimony +of these singular documents, that many young +Frenchmen perish yearly in this guilty and deplorable +manner for no other reason in the world +than the hope of being talked of afterwards.</p> + +<p>Had some solitary instance of so perverted a +vanity been found among these records, it might +perhaps have been considered as no more incredible +than various other proofs of the enfeebling +effects of this paltry passion on the judgment, +and have been set down to insanity, produced by +excessive egotism: but nothing short of the posthumous +testimony of the persons themselves could +induce any one to believe that scarcely a week +passes without such an event, from such a cause, +taking place in Paris.</p> + +<p>In many instances, I am told that the good +sense of surviving friends has led them to disobey +the testamentary instructions left by the +infatuated young men who have thus acted, requesting +that the wretched reasonings which have +led them to it should be published. But, in a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">365</a></span> +multitude of cases, the "Constitutionnel" and other +journals of the same stamp have their columns +filled with reasons why these poor reckless creatures +have dared the distant justice of their +Creator, in the hope that their unmeaning names +should be echoed through Paris for a day.</p> + +<p>It is not long since two young men—mere +youths—entered a <i>restaurant</i>, and bespoke a dinner +of unusual luxury and expense, and afterwards +arrived punctually at the appointed hour +to eat it. They did so, apparently with all the +zest of youthful appetite and youthful glee. They +called for champagne, and quaffed it hand in +hand. No symptom of sadness, thought, or reflection +of any kind was observed to mix with +their mirth, which was loud, long, and unremitting. +At last came the <i>café noir</i>, the cognac, +and the bill: one of them was seen to point out +the amount to the other, and then both burst out +afresh into violent laughter. Having swallowed +each his cup of coffee to the dregs, the <i>garçon</i> was +ordered to request the company of the <i>restaurateur</i> +for a few minutes. He came immediately, expecting +perhaps to receive his bill, minus some +extra charge which the jocund but economical +youths might deem exorbitant.</p> + +<p>Instead of this, however, the elder of the two +informed him that the dinner had been excellent, +which was the more fortunate as it was decidedly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">366</a></span> +the last that either of them should ever eat: that +for his bill, he must of necessity excuse the payment +of it, as in fact they neither of them possessed +a single sous: that upon no other occasion +would they thus have violated the customary etiquette +between guest and landlord; but that finding +this world, its toils and its troubles, unworthy +of them, they had determined once more to enjoy +a repast of which their poverty must for ever prevent +the repetition, and then—take leave of existence +for ever! For the first part of this resolution, +he declared that it had, thanks to his cook +and his cellar, been achieved nobly; and for the +last, it would soon follow—for the <i>café noir</i>, besides +the little glass of his admirable cognac, had +been medicated with that which would speedily +settle all their accounts for them.</p> + +<p>The <i>restaurateur</i> was enraged. He believed +no part of the rhodomontade but that which +declared their inability to discharge the bill, and +he talked loudly, in his turn, of putting them into +the hands of the police. At length, however, +upon their offering to give him their address, he +was persuaded to let them depart.</p> + +<p>On the following day, either the hope of obtaining +his money, or some vague fear that they +might have been in earnest in the wild tale that +they had told him, induced this man to go to +the address they had left with him; and he there +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">367</a></span> +heard that the two unhappy boys had been that +morning found lying together hand in hand, on +a bed hired a few weeks before by one of them. +When they were discovered, they were already +dead and quite cold.</p> + +<p>On a small table in the room lay many written +papers, all expressing aspirations after greatness +that should cost neither labour nor care, a profound +contempt for those who were satisfied to +live by the sweat of their brow—sundry quotations +from Victor Hugo, and a request that their names +and the manner of their death might be transmitted +to the newspapers.</p> + +<p>Many are the cases recorded of young men, +calling themselves dear friends, who have thus +encouraged each other to make their final exit +from life, if not with applause, at least with effect. +And more numerous still are the tales recounted +of young men and women found dead, and locked +in each other's arms; fulfilling literally, and with +most sad seriousness, the destiny sketched so +merrily in the old song:—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p> +Gai, gai, marions-nous—</p> +<p class="i1">Mettons-nous dans la misère;</p> +<p>Gai, gai, marions-nous—</p> +<p>Mettons-nous la corde au cou.</p> +</div> + +<p>I have heard it remarked by several individuals +among those who are watching with no unphilosophical +eyes many ominous features of the present +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">368</a></span> +time and the present race, or rather perhaps +of that portion of the population which stand +apart from the rest in dissolute idleness, that the +worst of all its threatening indications is the reckless, +hard indifference, and gladiator-like contempt +of death, which is nurtured, taught, and lauded +as at once the foundation and perfection of all +human wisdom and of all human virtue.</p> + +<p>In place of the firmness derived from hope +and resignation, these unhappy sophists seek courage +in desperation, and consolation in notoriety. +With this key to the philosophy of the day, it is +not difficult to read its influence on many a countenance +that one meets among those who are +lounging in listless laziness on the Boulevards or +in the gardens of Paris.</p> + +<p>The aspect of these figures is altogether unlike +what we may too often see among those who +linger, sunken, pale, and hopeless, on the benches +of our parks, or loiter under porticos and colonnades, +as if waiting for courage to beg. Hunger +and intemperance often leave blended traces on +such figures as these, exciting at once pity and +disgust. I have encountered at Paris nothing +like this: whether any such exist, I know not; +but if they do, their beat is distant from the public +walks and fashionable promenades. Instead +of these, however, there is a race who seem to +live there, less wretched perhaps in actual want +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">369</a></span> +of bread, but as evidently thriftless, homeless, and +friendless as the other. On the faces of such, one +may read a state of mind wholly different,—less +degraded, but still more perverted;—a wild, bold +eye, that rather seeks than turns from every passing +glance—unshrinking hardihood, but founded +more on indifference than endurance, and a +scornful sneer for any who may suffer curiosity +to conquer disgust, while they fix their eye for a +moment upon a figure that looks in all ways as if +got up to enact the hero of a melodrame. Were +I the king, or the minister either, I should think +it right to keep an eye of watchfulness upon all +such picturesque individuals; for one might say +most truly,</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1"> +"Yon Cassius hath a lean and hungry look;</p> +<p>He thinks too much: such men are dangerous."</p> +</div> + +<p>The friend to whom I addressed myself on the +subject of these constantly-recurring suicides told +me that there was great reason to believe that the +increase of this crime, so remarkable during the +last few years, might be almost wholly attributed +to the "light literature," as it is called, of the +period:—dark literature would be a fitter name +for it.</p> + +<p>The total absence of anything approaching to +a virtuous principle of action in every fictitious +character held up to admiration throughout all +the tales and dramas of the <i>décousu</i> school, while +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">370</a></span> +every hint of religion is banished as if it were +treason to allude to it, is in truth quite enough +to account for every species of depravity in those +who make such characters their study and their +model. "How oft and by how many shall they +be laughed to scorn!"—yet believing all the while, +poor souls! that they are producing a sensation, +and that the eyes of Europe are fixed upon them, +notwithstanding they once worked as a tailor or +a tinker, or at some other such unpoetical handiwork; +for they may all be described in the words +of Ecclesiasticus, with a very slight alteration,—"They +would maintain the state of the world, +and all their desire is in (forgetting) the work of +their craft."</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXXVIII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">371</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Opéra Comique.—"Cheval de Bronze."—"La Marquise."—Impossibility +of playing Tragedy.—Mrs. Siddons's Readings.—Mademoiselle +Mars has equal power.—<i>Laisser +aller</i> of the Female Performers.—Decline of Theatrical +Taste among the Fashionable.</p> + +<p>The "Cheval de Bronze" being the <i>spectacle par +excellence</i> at the Opéra Comique this season, we +have considered it a matter of sight-seeing necessity +to pay it a visit; and we have all agreed that +it is as perfectly beautiful in its scenery and decorations +as the size of the theatre would permit. +We gazed upon it, indeed, with a perfection of +contentment, which, in secret committee afterwards, +we confessed did not say much in favour +of our intellectual faculties.</p> + +<p>I really know not how it is that one can sit, +not only without murmuring, but with positive +satisfaction, for three hours together, with no +other occupation than looking at a collection of +gewgaw objects, with a most unmeaning crowd, +made for the most part by Nature's journeymen, +incessantly undulating among them. Yet so it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">372</a></span> +is, that a skilful arrangement of blue and white +gauze, aided by the magic of many-coloured lights, +decidedly the prettiest of all modern toys, made +us exclaim at every fresh manœuvre of the carpenter, +"Beautiful! beautiful!" with as much +delight as ever a child of five years old displayed +at a first-rate exhibition of Punch.</p> + +<p>M. Auber's music has some pretty things in +it; but he has done much better in days of yore; +and the wretched taste exhibited by all the principal +singers made me heartily wish that the well-appointed +orchestra had kept the whole performance +to themselves.</p> + +<p>Madame Casimir has had, and indeed still has, +a rich and powerful voice: but the meanest peasant-girl +in Germany, who trims her vines to the +sound of her native airs, might give her a lesson +on taste more valuable than all that science has +ever taught her.</p> + +<p>I should like, could I do so with a conscience +that should not reproach me with exaggeration, +to name Miss Stephens and Madame Casimir as +fair national specimens of English and French +singing. And in fact they are so; though I confess +that the over-dressing of Madame Casimir's +airs is almost as much out of the common way +here, as the chaste simplicity of our native syren's +strains is with us: yet the one is essentially English, +and the other French. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">373</a></span></p> + +<p>We were told that the manager of our London +theatres had been in Paris for the purpose of seeing +and taking a cast from this fine Chinese butterfly. +If this be so, Mr. Bunn will find great +advantage from the extent of his theatre: that of +the Opéra Comique is scarcely of sufficient magnitude +to exhibit its gaudy but graceful <i>tableaux</i> to +advantage. But, on the other hand, I doubt if he +will find any actress quite so <i>piquante</i> as the +pretty Madame ——, in the last act, when she relates +to the enchanted princess, her mistress, the +failure she had made in attempting by her <i>agaceries</i> +to retain the young female who had ventured +into the magic region: and if he did, I doubt +still more if her performance would be received +with equal applause.</p> + +<p>A <i>petite comédie</i> called "La Marquise" preceded +this brilliant trifle. The fable must, I +think, be taken, though greatly changed, from a +story of George Sand. It has perhaps little in it +worth talking about; but it is a fair specimen of +one of that most agreeable of French nationalities, +a natural, easy, playful little piece, at which you +may sit and laugh in sympathy with the performers +as much as with the characters, till you forget +that there are such things as sorrow and sadness +in the world.</p> + +<p>The acting in this style is so very good, that the +author's task really seems to be the least important +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">374</a></span> +part of the business. It is not at one theatre, +but at all, that we have witnessed this extraordinary +excellence in the performance of this species +of drama; but I doubt if the chasm which seems +to surround the tragic muse, keeping her apart on +a pedestal sacred to recollections, be at all wider +or more profound in England than in France. In +truth, it is less impassible with us than it is here; +for though I will allow that our tragic actresses +may be no better than those of France, seeing +that a woman's will in the one case, and the Atlantic +Ocean in the other, have robbed us of Mrs. +Bartley and the Fanny—who between them might +bring our stage back to all its former glory,—still +they have neither Charles Kemble nor Macready +to stand in the place that Talma has left vacant.</p> + +<p>I have indeed no doubt whatever that Mademoiselle +Mars could read Corneille and Racine as +effectively as Mrs. Siddons read Shakspeare in the +days of Argyle-street luxury, and, like our great +maga, give to every part a power that it never +had before. I well remember coming home from +one of Mrs. Siddons's readings with a passionate +desire to see her act the part of Hamlet; and +from another, quite persuaded that by some means +the witch-scene in Macbeth should be so arranged +that she should speak every word of it.</p> + +<p>In like manner, were I to hear Mars read +Corneille, I should insist upon it that she ought +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">375</a></span> +to play the Cid; and if Racine, Oreste would +probably be the first part I should choose for +her. But as even she, with all her Garrick-like +versatility, would not be able to perform +every part of every play, tragedy must be permitted +to repose for the present in France as +well as in England.</p> + +<p>During this interregnum, it is well for them, +considering how dearly they love to amuse themselves, +that they have a stock of comedians, old, +young, and middle-aged, that they need not fear +should fail; for the whole French nation seem +gifted with a talent that might enable them to +supply, at an hour's warning, any deficiencies in +the company.</p> + +<p>I seldom return from an exhibition of this sort +without endeavouring in some degree to analyse +the charm that has enchanted me: but in most +cases this is too light, too subtile, to permit itself +to be caught by so matter-of-fact a process. I +protest to you, that I am often half ashamed of +the pleasure I receive from ... I know not +what. A playful smile, a speaking glance, a +comic tone, a pretty gesture, give effect to words +that have often nothing in them more witty or +more wise than may often be met with (especially +here) in ordinary conversation. But the whole +thing is so thoroughly understood, from the "<i>père +noble</i>" to the scene-shifter—so perfect in its getting-up—the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">376</a></span> +piece so admirably suited to the +players, and the players to the piece,—that whatever +there is to admire and enjoy, comes to you +with no drawbacks from blunders or awkwardness +of any kind.</p> + +<p>That the composition of these happy trifles +cannot be a work of any great labour or difficulty, +may be reasonably inferred from the ceaseless +succession of novelties which every theatre +and every season produces. The process, for this +lively and ready-witted people, must be pleasant +enough—they must catch from what passes before +them; no difficult task, perhaps—some <i>piquante</i> +situation or ludicrous <i>bévue</i>: the slightest +thread is strong enough to hold together the +light materials of the plot; and then must follow +the christening of a needful proportion of male +and female, old and young, enchanting and ridiculous +personages. The list of these once set +down, and the order of scenes which are to +bring forth the plot arranged, I can fancy the +author perfectly enjoying himself as he puts into +the mouth of each character all the saucy impertinences +upon every subject that his imagination, +skilful enough in such matters, can suggest. +When to this is added an occasional touch of +natural feeling, and a little popular high-mindedness +in any line, the <i>petite comédie</i> is ready for +the stage. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">377</a></span></p> + +<p>It is certainly a very light manufacture, and +depends perhaps more upon the fearless <i>laisser +aller</i> of both author and actor than upon the +brilliancy of wit which it displays. That old-fashioned +blushing grace too, so much in favour +with King Solomon, and called in scripture phrase +shamefacedness, is sacrificed rather too unmercifully +by the female part of the performers, in the +fear, as it should seem, of impairing the spirit and +vivacity of the scene by any scruple of any kind. +But I suspect these ladies miscalculate the respective +value of opposing graces; Mademoiselle +Mars may show them that delicacy and vivacity +are not inseparable; and though I confess that +it would be a little unreasonable to expect all +the female vaudevillists of Paris to be like Mars, +I cannot but think that, in a city where her mode +of playing comedy has for so many years been +declared perfect, it must be unnecessary to seek +the power of attraction from what is so utterly +at variance with it.</p> + +<p>The performance of comedy is often assisted +here by a freedom among the actors which I +have sometimes, but not often, seen permitted +in London. It requires for its success, and indeed +for its endurance, that the audience should +be perfectly in good-humour, and sympathise very +cordially with the business of the scene. I allude +to the part which the performers sometimes take +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">378</a></span> +not only in the acting, but in the enjoyment of +it. I never in my life saw people more heartily +amused, or disposed more unceremoniously to +show it, than the actors in the "Précieuses +Ridicules," which I saw played a few nights ago +at the Français. On this occasion I think the +spirit of the performance was certainly heightened +by this license, and for this reason—the scene +represents a group in which one party must of +necessity be exceedingly amused by the success +of the mystification which they are practising on +the other. But I own that I have sometimes +felt a little <i>English stiffness</i> at perceiving an air +of frolic and fun upon the stage, which seemed +fully as much got up for the performers as for +the audience. But though the instance I have +named of this occurred at the Théâtre Français, +it is not there that it is likely to be carried to +any offensive extent. The lesser theatres would +in many instances do well to copy closely the +etiquette and decorum of all kinds which the +great national theatre exhibits: but perhaps it +is hardly fair to expect this; and besides, we +might be told, justly enough, to <i>look at home</i>.</p> + +<p>The theatres, particularly the minor ones, appear +to be still very well attended: but I constantly +hear the same observations made in Paris +as in London upon the decline of theatrical taste +among the higher orders; and it arises, I think, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">379</a></span> +from the same cause in both countries,—namely, +the late dinner-hour, which renders the going to +a play a matter of general family arrangement, +and often of general family difficulty. The opera, +which is later, is always full; and were it not +that I have lived too long in the world to be +surprised at anything that the power of fashion +could effect, I should certainly be astonished that +so lively a people as the French should throng +night after night as they do to witness the exceeding +dulness of this heavy spectacle.</p> + +<p>The only people I have yet seen enjoying their +theatres rationally, without abstaining from what +they liked because it was unfashionable, or enduring +what they did not, because it was the +<i>mode</i>, are the Germans. Their genuine and universal +love of music makes their delicious opera +almost a necessary of life to them; and they must, +I think, absolutely change their nature before +they will suffer the silly conventional elegance +supposed by some to attach to the act of eating +their dinner late, to interfere with their enjoyment +of it.</p> + +<p>I used to think the theatre as dear to the +French as music to the Germans. But what is +a taste in France is, from the firmer fibre of the +national character, a passion in Germany;—and +it is easier to abandon a taste than to control +a passion. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">380</a></span></p> + +<p>Perhaps, however, in England and France too, +if some new-born theatrical talent of the first +class were to "flame in the forehead of the morning +sky," both Paris and London would submit +to the degradation of dining at five o'clock in +order to enjoy it: but late hours and indifferent +performances, together, have gone far towards +placing the stage among the popular rather than +the fashionable amusements of either.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XXXIX.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">381</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +The Abbé de Lamennais.—Cobbett.—O'Connell.—Napoleon.—Robespierre.</p> + +<p>I had last night the satisfaction of meeting the +Abbé de Lamennais at a <i>soirée</i>. It was at the +house of Madame Benjamin Constant; whose +<i>salon</i> is as celebrated for the talent of every kind +to be met there, as for the delightful talents and +amiable qualities of its mistress.</p> + +<p>In general appearance, this celebrated man recalls +an original drawing that I remember to have +seen of Rousseau. He is greatly below the ordinary +height, and extremely small in his proportions. +His countenance is very striking, and singularly +indicative of habitual meditation; but +the deep-set eye has something very nearly approaching +to wildness in its rapid glance. His +dress was black, but had certainly more of republican +negligence than priestly dignity in it; and +the little, tight, chequered cravat which encircled +his slender throat, gave him decidedly the appearance +of a person who heeded not either the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">382</a></span> +fashion of the day, or the ordinary costume of the +<i>salon</i>.</p> + +<p>He, in company with four or five other distinguished +men, had dined with Madame Constant; +and we found him deep sunk in a <i>bergère</i> that +almost concealed his diminutive person, surrounded +by a knot of gentlemen, with whom he was +conversing with great eagerness and animation. +On one side of him was M. Jouy, the well-known +"<i>Hermite</i>" of the Chaussée d'Antin; and on the +other, a deputy well known on the benches of the +<i>côté gauche</i>.</p> + +<p>I was placed immediately opposite to him, and +have seldom watched the play of a more animated +countenance. In the course of the evening, he +was brought up and introduced to me. His manners +are extremely gentlemanlike; no stiffness +or reserve, either rustic or priestly, interfering +with their easy vivacity. He immediately drew +a chair <i>vis-à-vis</i> to the sofa on which I was placed, +and continued thus, with his back turned to the +rest of the company, conversing very agreeably, +till so many persons collected round him, many +of whom were ladies, that not feeling pleased, I +suppose, to sit while they stood, he bowed off, +and retreated again to his <i>bergère</i>.</p> + +<p>He told me that he must not remain long in +Paris, where he was too much in society to do +anything; that he should speedily retreat to the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">383</a></span> +profound seclusion of his native Brittany, and +there finish the work upon which he was engaged. +Whether this work be the defence of the <i>prévenus +d'Avril</i>, which he has threatened to fulminate +in a printed form at the head of those who refused +to let him plead for them in court, I know +not; but this document, whenever it appears, is +expected to be violent, powerful, and eloquent.</p> + +<p>The writings of the Abbé de Lamennais remind +me strongly of those of Cobbett,—not, certainly, +from their matter, nor even from the manner +of treating it, but from the sort of effect +which they produce upon the mind. Had the +pen of either of them been wholly devoted to the +support of a good cause, their writings would +have been invaluable to society; for they both +have shown a singular power of carrying the +attention, and almost the judgment, of the reader +along with them, even when writing on subjects +on which he and they were perfectly at issue.</p> + +<p>Were there not circumstances in the literary +history of both which contradict the notion, I +should say that this species of power or charm in +their writings arose from their being themselves +very much in earnest in the opinions they were +advocating: but as the Abbé de Lamennais and +the late Mr. Cobbett have both shown that their +faith in their own opinions was not strong enough +to prevent them from changing them, the peculiar +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">384</a></span> +force of their eloquence can hardly be referred to +the sincerity of it.</p> + +<p>I remember hearing a lively young barrister +declare that he would rather argue against his +own judgment than according to it; and I am +sure he spoke in all sincerity,—much as he would +have done had he said that he preferred shooting +wild game to slaughtering tame chickens: the +difficulty made the pleasure. But we cannot presume +to suppose that either of the two persons +whose names I have so incongruously brought +together have written and argued on the same +principle; and even if it were so, they have not +the less changed their minds,—unless we suppose +that they have amused themselves and the public, +by sometimes arguing for what they believed to +be truth, and sometimes only to show their skill.</p> + +<p>As to what Mr. Cobbett's principles might +really have been, I think it is a question that +must ever remain in uncertainty,—unless we adopt +that easiest and most intelligible conclusion, that +he had none at all. But it is far otherwise with +M. de Lamennais: it is impossible to doubt that +in his early writings he was perfectly sincere; +there is a warmth of faith in them that could +proceed from no fictitious fire. Nor is it easily +to be imagined that he would have thrown himself +from the height at which he stood in the opinion +of all whom he most esteemed, had he not +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">385</a></span> +fancied that he saw truth at the bottom of that +abyss of heresy and schism into which all good +Catholics think that he has thrown himself.</p> + +<p>The wild republicanism which M. de Lamennais +has picked up in his descent is, however, +what has probably injured him most in the general +estimation. Some few years ago, liberal +principles were advocated by many of the most +able as well as the most honest men in Europe; +but the unreasonable excesses into which the ultras +of the party have fallen seem to have made +the respectable portion of mankind draw back +from it, and, whatever their speculative opinions +may be, they now show themselves anxious to +rally round all that bears the stamp of order and +lawful authority.</p> + +<p>It would be difficult to imagine a worse time +for a man to commence republican and free-thinker +than the present;—unless, indeed, he did +so in the hope that the loaves and fishes were, or +would be, at the disposition of that party. Putting, +however, all hope of being paid for it aside, +the period is singularly unpropitious for such a +conversion. As long as their doctrine remained a +theory only, it might easily delude many who had +more imagination than judgment, or more ignorance +than either: but so much deplorable mischief +has arisen before our eyes every time the +theory has been brought to the test of practice, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">386</a></span> +that I believe the sound-minded in every land +consider their speculations at present with as +little respect as they would those of a joint-stock +company proposing to colonize the moon.</p> + +<p>That the Abbé de Lamennais is no longer +considered in France as the pre-eminent man he +has been, is most certain; and as it is easy to +trace in his works a regular progression downwards, +from the dignified and enthusiastic Catholic +priest to the puzzled sceptic and factious demagogue, +I should not be greatly surprised to hear +that he, who has been spoken of at Rome as +likely to become a cardinal, was carrying a scarlet +flag through the streets of Paris, with a conical +hat and a Robespierre waistcoat, singing "<i>Ça ira</i>" +louder than he ever chanted a mass.</p> + +<p>M. de Lamennais, in common with several +other persons of republican principles with whom +I have conversed since I have been in Paris, has +conceived the idea that England is at this moment +actually and <i>bonâ fide</i> under the rule, dictation, +and government of Mr. Daniel O'Connell. He +named him in an accent of the most profound +admiration and respect, and referred to the English +newspapers as evidence of the enthusiastic +love and veneration in which he was held throughout +Great Britain!</p> + +<p>I waxed wroth, I confess; but I took wisdom +and patience, and said very meekly, that he had +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">387</a></span> +probably seen only that portion of the English +papers which were of Mr. Daniel's faction, and +that I believed Great Britain was still under the +dominion of King William the Fourth, his Lords +and Commons. It is not many days since I met +another politician of the same school who went +farther still; for he gravely wished me joy of the +prospect of emancipation which the virtue of the +great O'Connell held out to my country. On this +occasion, being in a gay mood, I laughed heartily, +and did so with a safe conscience, having no need +to set the enlightened propagandist right; this +being done for me, much better than I could have +done it myself, by a hard-headed doctrinaire who +was with me.</p> + +<p>"O'Connell is the Napoleon of England," said +the republican.</p> + +<p>"Not of England, at any rate," replied the doctrinaire. +"And if he must have a name borrowed +from France, let it be Robespierre's: let him be +called magnificently the Robespierre of Ireland."</p> + +<p>"He has already been the redeemer of Ireland," +rejoined the republican gravely; "and now <i>he +has taken England under his protection</i>."</p> + +<p>"And I suspect that ere long England will +take him under hers," said my friend, laughing. +"Hitherto it appears as if the country had not +thought him worth whipping; ... mais si un +chien est méchant, si même ce ne serait qu'un +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">388</a></span> +vilain petit hargneux, il devrait être lié, ou bien +pendu."</p> + +<p>Having finished this oracular sentence, the doctrinaire +took a long pinch of snuff, and began discoursing +of other matters: and I too withdrew +from the discussion, persuaded that I could not +bring it to a better conclusion.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XL.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">389</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Which Party is it ranks second in the estimation of all?—No +Caricatures against the Exiles.—Horror of a Republic.</p> + +<p>I have been taking some pains to discover, by +the aid of all the signs and tokens of public feeling +within my reach, who among the different parties +into which this country is divided enjoys the +highest degree of general consideration.</p> + +<p>We know that if every man in a town were +desired to say who among its inhabitants he +should consider as fittest to hold an employment +of honour and profit, each would probably answer, +"Myself:" we know also, that should it happen, +after the avowal of this very natural partiality, +that the name of the second best were asked for, +and that the man named as such by one were so +named by all, this second best would be accounted +by the disinterested lookers-on as decidedly the +right and proper person to fill the station. According +to this rule, the right and proper government +for France is neither republican, nor military, +nor doctrinaire, but that of a legitimate and constitutional +monarchy. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">390</a></span></p> + +<p>When men hold office, bringing both power +and wealth, consideration will of necessity follow. +That the ministers and their friends, therefore, +should be seen in pride of place, and enjoying the +dignity they have achieved, is natural, inevitable, +and quite as it should be. But if, turning from +this every-day spectacle, we endeavour to discover +who it is that, possessing neither power nor place, +most uniformly receive the homage of respect, I +should say, without a shadow of doubt or misgiving, +that it was the legitimate royalists.</p> + +<p>The triumphant doctrinaires pass no jokes at +their expense; no <i>bons mots</i> are quoted against +them, nor does any shop exhibit caricatures either +of what they have been or of what they are.</p> + +<p>The republicans are no longer heard to name +them, either with rancour or disrespect: all their +wrath is now poured out upon the present actual +power of the prosperous doctrinaires. This, indeed, +is in strict conformity to the principle which +constitutes the foundation of their sect; namely, +that whatever exists ought to be overthrown. +But neither in jest nor earnest do they now show +hostility to Charles the Tenth or his family: nor +even do the blank walls of Paris, which for nearly +half a century have been the favourite receptacle +of all their wit, exhibit any pleasantries, either in +the shape of hieroglyphic, caricature, or lampoon, +alluding to them or their cause. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">391</a></span></p> + +<p>I have listened repeatedly to sprightly and to +bitter jestings, to judicious and to blundering reasonings, +for and against the different doctrines +which divide the country; but in no instance do +I remember to have heard, either in jest or earnest, +any revilings against the exiled race. A sort +of sacred silence seems to envelope this theme; or +if it be alluded to at all, it is far from being in +a hostile spirit.</p> + +<p>"<span class="smcap">Henri!</span>" is a name that, without note or comment, +may be read <i>ça et là</i> in every quarter of +Paris, that of the Tuileries not excepted: and on +a wall near the Royal College of Henri Quatre, +where the younger princes of the house of Orleans +still study, were inscribed not long ago these very +intelligible words:—</p> + +<p>"Pour arriver à Bordeaux, il faut passer par +Orléans."</p> + +<p>In short, whatever feelings of irritation and +anger might have existed in 1830, and produced +the scenes which led to the exile of the royal +family, they now seem totally to have subsided.</p> + +<p>It does not, however, necessarily follow from this +that the majority of the people are ready again to +hazard their precious tranquillity in order to restore +them: on the contrary, it cannot be doubted +that were such a measure attempted at the present +moment, it would fail—not from any dislike of +their legitimate monarch, or any affection for the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">392</a></span> +kinsman who has been placed upon his throne, +but wholly and solely from their wish to enjoy in +peace their profitable speculations at the <i>Bourse</i>—their +flourishing <i>restaurans</i>—their prosperous +shops—and even their tables, chairs, beds, and +coffee-pots.</p> + +<p>Very different, however, is the feeling manifested +towards the republicans. Never did Napoleon +in the days of his most absolute power, or +the descendants of Louis le Grand in those of their +proudest state, contemplate this factious, restless +race with such abhorrence as do the doctrinaires +of the present hour. It is not that they fear them—they +have no real cause to do so; but they feel a +sentiment made up of hatred and contempt, which +never seems to repose, and which, if not regulated +by wisdom and moderation, is very likely eventually +to lead to more barricades; though to none, I +imagine, that the National Guards may not easily +throw down.</p> + +<p>It is on the subject of this unpopular <i>clique</i> that +by far the greater part of the ever-springing Parisian +jokes expends itself; though the doctrinaires +get it "<i>pas mal</i>" in return, as I heard a national +guardsman remark, as we were looking over some +caricatures together. But, in truth, the republicans +seem upon principle to offer themselves as victims +and martyrs to the quizzing propensities of their +countrymen. Harlequin does not more scrupulously +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">393</a></span> +adhere to his parti-coloured suit, than do +the republicans of Paris to their burlesque costume. +It is, I presume, to show their courage, +that they so ostentatiously march with their colours +flying; but the effect is very ludicrous. The +symbolic peculiarities of their dress are classed +and lithographed with infinite fun.</p> + +<p>Drolleries, too, on the parvenus of the Empire +are to be found for the seeking; and when +they beset King Philippe himself, it should seem +that it is done with all the enthusiasm so well +expressed by Garrick in days of yore:—</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"'Tis for my king, and, zounds! I'll do my best!"</p> + +<p>The only extraordinary part of all this caricaturing +on walls and in print-shops, is the license +taken with those who have power to prevent it. +The principle of legislation on this point appears, +with a little variation, to be that of the old +ballad:</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1"> +"Thoughts, words, and deeds, the statute blames with reason;</p> +<p>But surely <i>jokes</i> were ne'er indicted treason."</p> +</div> + +<p>In speaking of the parties into which France +is divided, the three grand divisions of Carlists, +Doctrinaires, and Republicans naturally present +themselves first and foremost, and, to foreigners +in general, appear to contain between them the +entire nation: but a month or two passed in +Paris society suffices to show one that there +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">394</a></span> +are many who cannot fairly be classed with +either.</p> + +<p>In the first place, the Carlist party by no means +contains all those who disapprove of treating a +crown like a ready-made shoe, which, if it be +found to pinch the person it was intended for, +may be disposed of to the first comer who is +willing to take it. The Carlist party, properly +so called, demand the restoration of King Charles +the Tenth, the immediate descendant and representative +of their long line of kings—the prince +who has been crowned and anointed King of +France, and who, while he remains alive, must +render the crowning and anointing of any other +prince an act of sacrilege. Wherefore, in effect, +King Louis-Philippe has not received "<i>le sacre</i>:" +he is not as yet the anointed King of France, +whatever he may be hereafter. Henri Quatre +is said to have exclaimed under the walls of the +capital, "Paris vaut bien une messe;" and it is +probable that Louis-Philippe Premier thinks so +too; but hitherto he has been able to have this +performed only in military style—being incapable, +in fact, of going through the ceremony either +civilly or religiously. The Carlists are, therefore, +those only who <i>en rigueur</i> do not approve of any +king but the real one.</p> + +<p>The legitimate royalists are, I believe, a much +more numerous party. As strictly attached to +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">395</a></span> +the throne and to the principle of regular and +legitimate succession as the Carlists, they nevertheless +conceive that the pressure of circumstances +may not only authorise, but render it +imperative upon the country to accept, or rather +to permit, the abdication of a sovereign. +The king's leaving the country and placing himself +in exile, is one of the few causes that can +justify this; and accordingly the abdication of +Charles Dix is virtual death to him as a sovereign. +But though this is granted, it does not +follow in their creed, that any part of the nation +have thereupon a right to present the hereditary +crown to whom they will. The law of succession, +they say, is not to be violated because the king +has fled before a popular insurrection; and having +permitted his abdication, the next heir becomes +king. This next heir, however, choosing to follow +his royal father's example, he too becomes +virtually defunct, and his heir succeeds.</p> + +<p>This heir is still an infant, and his remaining +in exile cannot therefore be interpreted as his +own act. Thus, according to the reasoning of +those who conceive the abdication of the king +and the dauphin to be acts within their own +power, and beyond that of the nation to nullify, +Henri, the son of the Duc de Berri, is beyond all +doubt Henri Cinq, Roi de France.</p> + +<p>Of this party, however, there are many, and I +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">396</a></span> +suspect their number is increasing, who, having +granted the power of setting aside (by his own +act) the anointed monarch, are not altogether +averse to go a step farther, if so doing shall ensure +the peace of the country; and considering +the infancy of the rightful heir as constituting +insufficiency, to confess Louis-Philippe as the next +in succession to be the lawful as well as the actual +King of the French.</p> + +<p>It is this party who I always find have the +most to say in support (or defence) of their opinions. +Whether this proceed from their feeling that some +eloquence is necessary to make them pass current, +or that the conviction of their justice is such as to +make their hearts overflow on the theme, I know +not; but decidedly the sect of the "<i>Parcequ'il +est Bourbon</i>" is that which I find most eager to +discourse upon politics. And, to confess the truth, +they have much to say for themselves, at least on +the side of expediency.</p> + +<p>It is often a matter of regret with me, that in +addressing these letters to you I am compelled to +devote so large a portion of them to politics; but +in attempting to give you some idea of Paris at +the present moment, it is impossible to avoid it. +Were I to turn from this theme, I could only do +so by labouring to forget everything I have seen, +everything I see. Go where you will, do what +you will, meet whom you will, it is out of your +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397">397</a></span> +power to escape it. But observe, that it is wholly +for your sake, and not at all for my own, that I +lament it; for, however flat and unprofitable my +report may be, the thing itself, when you are in +the midst of it, is exceedingly interesting.</p> + +<p>When I first arrived, I was considerably annoyed +by finding, that as soon as I had noted +down some piece of information as an undoubted +fact, the next person I conversed with assured +me that it was worth considerably less than +nought; inasmuch as my informer had not only +failed to give me useful instruction on the point +concerning which I was inquiring, but had altogether +deluded, deceived, and led me astray.</p> + +<p>These days of primitive matter-of-factness are +now, however, quite passed with me; and though +I receive a vast deal of entertainment from all, I +give my faith in return to very few. I listen to +the Carlists, the Henri-Quintists, the Philippists, +with great attention and real interest, but have +sometimes caught myself humming as soon as +they have left me,</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"They were all of them kings in their turn."</p> + +<p>Indeed, if you knew all that happens to me, +instead of blaming me for being too political, you +would be very thankful for the care and pains I +bestow in endeavouring to make a digest of all +I hear for your advantage, containing as few +contradictions as possible. And truly this is no +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">398</a></span> +easy matter, not only from the contradictory +nature of the information I receive, but from some +varying weaknesses in my own nature, which sometimes +put me in the very disagreeable predicament +of doubting if what is right be right, and +if what is wrong be wrong.</p> + +<p>When I came here, I was a thorough unequivocating +legitimatist, and felt quite ready and +willing to buckle on armour against any who +should doubt that a man once a king was always +a king—that once crowned according to law, he +could not be uncrowned according to mob—or +that a man's eldest son was his rightful heir.</p> + +<p>But, oh! these doctrinaires! They have such +a way of proving that if they are not quite right, +at least everybody else is a great deal more +wrong: and then they talk so prettily of England +and <i>our</i> revolution, and our glorious constitution—and +the miseries of anarchy—and the +advantages of letting things remain quietly as +they are, till, as I said before, I begin to doubt +what is right and what is wrong.</p> + +<p>There is one point, however, on which we +agree wholly and heartily; and it is this perhaps +that has been the means of softening my heart +thus towards them. The doctrinaires shudder at +the name of a republic. This is not because their +own party is regal, but is evidently the result of +the experience which they and their fathers have +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_399" id="Page_399">399</a></span> +had from the tremendous experiment which has +once already been made in the country.</p> + +<p>"You will never know the full value of your +constitution till you have lost it," said a doctrinaire +to me the other evening, at the house of the +beautiful Princess B——, formerly an energetic +propagandiste, but now a very devoted doctrinaire,—"you +will never know how beneficial is +its influence on every hour of your lives, till your +Mr. O'Connell has managed to arrange a republic +for you: and when you have tasted that for about +three months, you will make good and faithful +subjects to the next king that Heaven shall bestow +upon you. You know how devoted all France +was to the Emperor, though the police was somewhat +tight, and the conscriptions heavy: but he +had saved us from a republic, and we adored him. +For a few days, or rather hours, we were threatened +again, five years ago, by the same terrible +apparition: the result is, that four millions of +armed men stand ready to protect the prince who +chased it. Were it to appear a third time—which +Heaven forbid!—you may depend upon it that the +monarch who should next ascend the throne of +France might play at <i>le jeu de quilles</i> with his +subjects, and no one be found to complain."</p> + +<h2>LETTER XLI.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400">400</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +M. Dupré.—His Drawings in Greece.—L'Eglise des Carmes.—M. +Vinchon's Picture of the National Convention.—Léopold +Robert's Fishermen.—Reported cause of his +Suicide.—Roman Catholic Religion.—Mr. Daniel O'Connell.</p> + +<p>We went the other morning, with Miss C——, +a very agreeable countrywoman, who has however +passed the greater portion of her life in Paris, to +visit the house and atelier of M. Dupré, a young +artist who seems to have devoted himself to the +study of Greece. Her princes, her peasants, her +heavy-eyed beauties, and the bright sky that +glows above them,—all the material of her domestic +life, and all the picturesque accompaniments +of her classic reminiscences, are brought home by +this gentleman in a series of spirited and highly-finished +drawings, which give decidedly the most +lively idea of the country that I have seen produced. +Engravings or lithographs from them +are, I believe, intended to illustrate a splendid +work on this interesting country which is about +to be published. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">401</a></span></p> + +<p>In our way from M. Dupré's house, in which +was this collection of Greek drawings, to his +atelier—where he was kind enough to show us +a large picture recently commenced—we entered +that fatal "Eglise des Carmes," where the most +hideous massacre of the first revolution took +place. A large tree that stands beside it is +pointed out as having been sought as a shelter—alas! +how vainly!—by the unhappy priests, who +were shot, sabred, and dragged from its branches +by dozens. A thousand terrible recollections are +suggested by the interior of the building, aided +by the popular traditions attached to it, unequalled +in atrocity even in the history of that time of +horror.</p> + +<p>Another scene relating to the same period, +which, though inferior to the massacre of the +priests in multiplied barbarity, was of sufficient +horror to freeze the blood of any but a republican, +has, strange to say, been made, since the +revolution of 1830, the subject of an enormous +picture by M. Vinchon, and at the present moment +makes part of the exhibition at the Louvre.</p> + +<p>The canvass represents a hall at the Tuileries +which in 1795 was the place where the National +Convention sat. The mob has broken in, and +murdered Feraud, who attempted to oppose them; +and the moment chosen by the painter is that in +which a certain "<i>jeune fille nommée Aspasie Migelli</i>" +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_402" id="Page_402">402</a></span> +approaches the president's chair with the +young man's head borne on a pike before her, +while she triumphantly envelopes herself in some +part of his dress. The whole scene is one of the +most terrible revolutionary violence. This picture +is stated in the catalogue to belong to the minister +of the interior; but whether the present minister +of the interior, or any other, I know not. +The subject was given immediately after the revolution +of 1830, and many artists made sketches +in competition for the execution of it. One of +those who tried, and failed before the superior +genius of M. Vinchon, told us, that the subject +was given at that time as one likely to be popular, +either for love of the noble resolution with +which Boissy d'Anglas keeps possession of the +president's chair, which he had seized upon, or +else from admiration of the energetic female who +has assisted in doing the work of death. In +either case, this young artist said, the popularity +of such a subject was passed by, and no such +order would be given now.</p> + +<p>Finding myself again on the subject of pictures, +I must mention a very admirable one which is +now being exhibited at the "Mairie du Second +Arrondissement." It is from the hand of the unfortunate +Leopold Robert, who destroyed himself +at Venice almost immediately after he had completed +it. The subject is the departure of a party +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">403</a></span> +of Italian fishermen; and there are parts of the +picture fully equal to anything I have ever seen +from the pencil of a modern artist. I should +have looked at this picture with extreme pleasure, +had the painter still lived to give hope of, perhaps, +still higher efforts; but the history of his +death, which I had just been listening to, mixed +great pain with it.</p> + +<p>I have been told that this young man was of a +very religious and meditative turn of mind, but a +Protestant. His only sister, to whom he was much +attached, was a Catholic, and had recently taken +the veil. Her affection for him was such, that she +became perfectly wretched from the danger she +believed awaited him from his heresy; and she +commenced a species of affectionate persecution, +which, though it failed to convert him, so harassed +and distracted his mind, as finally to overthrow +his reason, and lead him to self-destruction. This +charming picture is exhibited for the benefit of +the poor, at the especial desire of the unhappy +nun; who is said, however, to be so perfect a +fanatic, as only to regret that the dreadful act +was not delayed till she had had time to work +out the salvation of her own soul by a little more +persecution of his.</p> + +<p>There is something exceedingly curious, and, +perhaps, under our present lamentable circumstances, +somewhat alarming, in the young and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404">404</a></span> +vigorous after-growth of the Roman Catholic religion, +which, by the aid of a very little inquiry, may +be so easily traced throughout France. Were +we keeping our own national church sacred, and +guarded both by love and by law, as it has hitherto +been from all assaults of the Pope and ... +Mr. O'Connell, it could only be with pleasure that +we should see France recovering from her long +ague-fit of infidelity,—and, as far as she is concerned, +we must in Christian charity rejoice, for +she is unquestionably the better for it; but there +is a regenerated activity among the Roman Catholic +clergy, which, under existing circumstances, +makes a Protestant feel rather nervous,—and I +declare to you, I never pass within sight of that +famous window of the Louvre, whence Charles +Neuf, with his own royal and catholic hand, discharged +a blunderbuss amongst the Huguenots, +without thinking how well a window at Whitehall, +already noted in history as a scene of horror, +might serve King Daniel for the same purpose.</p> + +<p>The great influence which the religion of Rome +has of late regained over the minds of the French +people has, I am told, been considerably increased +by the priests having added to the strength +derived from their command of pardons and indulgences, +that which our Methodist preachers +gain from the terrors of hell. They use the same +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">405</a></span> +language, too, respecting regeneration and grace; +and, as one means of regaining the hold they had +lost upon the human mind, they now anathematize +all recreations, as if their congregations were +so many aspirants to the sublime purifications of +La Trappe, or so many groaning fanatics just +made over to them from Lady Huntingdon's Chapel. +That there is, however, a pretty strong +force to stem this fresh spring-tide of moon-struck +superstition, is very certain. The doctrinaires, I +am told, taken as a body, are not much addicted +to this species of weakness. I remember, during +the prevalence of that sweeping complaint called +the influenza, hearing of a "good lady," of the +high evangelical <i>clique</i>, who said to some of the +numerous pensioners who flocked to receive the +crumbs of her table and the precepts of her lips, +that she could make up some medicine that was +very good for all <span class="smcap">poor</span> people that were seized +with this complaint.</p> + +<p>"What can be the difference, ma'am," said the +poor body who told me this, "between us and +Madame C—— in this illness? Is not what is +good for the poor, good for the rich too?"</p> + +<p>The same pertinent question may, I think, be +asked in Paris just now respecting the medicine +called religion. It is administered in large doses to +the poor, to which class a great number of the fair +sex of all ranks happily seem to have joined themselves, intending, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">406</a></span> +at least, to rank themselves +as among the poor in spirit; nay, parish doctors +are regularly paid by authority; yet, if the tale +be true, the authorities themselves take little of +it. "It is very good for poor people;" but, like +the hot-baths which Anstie talks of,</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="i2"> + "No creature e'er view'd</p> +<p>Any one of the government gentry stew'd."</p> +</div> + +<p>Whether the returning power of this pompous +and aspiring faith will mount as it proceeds, and +embrace within its grasp, as it was wont to do, +all the great ones of the earth, is a question that +it may require some years to answer; but one +thing is at least certain,—that its ministers will +try hard that it shall do so, whether they are +likely to succeed or not; and, at the worst, they +may console themselves by the reflection of Lafontaine:—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<p class="o1"> +"Si de les gagner je n'emporte pas le prix,</p> +<p>J'aurais au moins l'honneur de l'avoir entrepris."</p> +</div> + +<p>One great one they have certainly already got, +besides King Charles the Tenth,—even the immortal +Daniel; and however little consequence +you may be inclined to attach to this fact, it cannot +be considered as wholly unimportant, since +I have heard his religious principles and his influence +in England alluded to in the pulpit here +with a tone of hope and triumph which made me +tremble. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">407</a></span></p> + +<p>I heartily wish that some of those who continue +to vote in his traitorous majority because they +are pledged to do so, could hear him and his +power spoken of here. If they have English +hearts, it must, I think, give them a pang.</p> + +<h2>LETTER XLII.</h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">408</a></span></p> + +<p class="ch_open"> +Old Maids.—Rarely to be found in France.—The reasons +for this.</p> + +<p>Several years ago, while passing a few weeks +in Paris, I had a conversation with a Frenchman +upon the subject of old maids, which, though so +long past, I refer to now for the sake of the +sequel, which has just reached me.</p> + +<p>We were, I well remember, parading in the +Gardens of the Luxembourg; and as we paced up +and down its long alleys, the "miserable fate," as +he called it, of single women in England was +discussed and deplored by my companion as being +one of the most melancholy results of faulty +national manners that could be mentioned.</p> + +<p>"I know nothing," said he with much energy, +"that ever gave me more pain in society, than +seeing, as I did in England, numbers of unhappy +women who, however well-born, well-educated, +or estimable, were without a position, without +an <i>état</i> and without a name, excepting one that +they would generally give half their remaining +days to get rid of." +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409">409</a></span></p> + +<p>"I think you somewhat exaggerate the evil," +I replied: "but even if it were as bad as you +state it to be, I see not why single ladies should +be better off here."</p> + +<p>"Here!" he exclaimed, in a tone of horror: +"Do you really imagine that in France, where +we pride ourselves on making the destiny of our +women the happiest in the world,—do you really +imagine that we suffer a set of unhappy, innocent, +helpless girls to drop, as it were, out of society +into the <i>néant</i> of celibacy, as you do? God keep +us from such barbarity!"</p> + +<p>"But how can you help it? It is impossible +but that circumstances must arise to keep many +of your men single; and if the numbers be equally +balanced, it follows that there must be single +women too."</p> + +<p>"It may seem so; but the fact is otherwise: +we have no single women."</p> + +<p>"What, then, becomes of them?"</p> + +<p>"I know not; but were any Frenchwoman to +find herself so circumstanced, depend upon it she +would drown herself."</p> + +<p>"I know one such, however," said a lady who +was with us: "Mademoiselle Isabelle B*** is +an old maid."</p> + +<p>"Est-il possible!" cried the gentleman, in a +tone that made me laugh very heartily. "And +how old is she, this unhappy Mademoiselle Isabelle?" +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_410" id="Page_410">410</a></span></p> + +<p>"I do not know exactly," replied the lady; +"but I think she must be considerably past +thirty."</p> + +<p>"C'est une horreur!" he exclaimed again; adding, +rather mysteriously, in a half-whisper, "Trust +me, she will not bear it long!"</p> + +<hr class="l30" /> + +<p>I had certainly forgotten Mademoiselle Isabelle +and all about her, when I again met the lady who +had named her as the one sole existing old maid +of France. While conversing with her the other +day on many things which had passed when we +were last together, she asked me if I remembered +this conversation. I assured her that I had forgotten +no part of it.</p> + +<p>"Well, then," said she, "I must tell you what +happened to me about three months after it took +place. I was invited with my husband to pay a +visit at the house of a friend in the country,—the +same house where I had formerly seen the Mademoiselle +Isabelle B*** whom I had named to +you. While playing <i>écarté</i> with our host in the +evening, I recollected our conversation in the +Gardens of the Luxembourg, and inquired for the +lady who had been named in it.</p> + +<p>"'Is it possible that you have not heard what +has happened to her?' he replied.</p> + +<p>"'No, indeed; I have heard nothing. Is she +married, then?' +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_411" id="Page_411">411</a></span></p> + +<p>"'Married!... Alas, no! she has <i>drowned +herself</i>!'"</p> + +<p>Terrible as this dénouement was, it could not +be heard with the solemn gravity it called for, +after what had been said respecting her. Was +ever coincidence more strange! My friend told +me, that on her return to Paris she mentioned +this catastrophe to the gentleman who had seemed +to predict it; when the information was received +by an exclamation quite in character,—"God +be praised! then she is out of her misery!"</p> + +<p>This incident, and the conversation which followed +upon it, induced me to inquire in sober +earnest what degree of truth there might really +be in the statement made to us in this well-remembered +conversation; and it certainly does +appear, from all I can learn, that the meeting a +single woman past thirty is a very rare occurrence +in France. The arranging <i>un mariage convenable</i> +is in fact as necessary and as ordinary a +duty in parents towards a daughter, as the sending +her to nurse or the sending her to school. +The proposal for such an alliance proceeds quite +as frequently from the friends of the lady as +from those of the gentleman: and it is obvious +that this must at once very greatly increase the +chance of a suitable marriage for young women; +for though we do occasionally send our daughters +to India in the hope of obtaining this much-desired +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412">412</a></span> +result, few English parents have as yet +gone the length of proposing to anybody, or to +anybody's son, to take their daughter off their +hands.</p> + +<p>I have not the least doubt in the world that, +were the custom otherwise—were a young lady's +claim to an establishment pointed out by her +friends, instead of being left to be discovered or +undiscovered as chance will have it,—I have no +doubt in the world that in such a case many +happy marriages might be the result: and where +such an arrangement infringes on no feeling of +propriety, but is adopted only in conformity to +national custom, I can well believe that the fair +lady herself may deem her having nothing to +do with the business a privilege of infinite importance +to her delicacy. But would our English +girls like, for the satisfaction of escaping the +chance of being an old maid, to give up the dear +right of awaiting in maiden dignity till they are +chosen—selected from out the entire world—and +then of saying yes or no, as may please their +fancy best?</p> + +<p>If I do not greatly mistake the national character +of Englishwomen, there are very few who +could be found to exchange this privilege for +the most perfect assurance that could be given +of obtaining a marriage in any other way. As +to which is best and which is wisest, or even +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_413" id="Page_413">413</a></span> +which is likely to produce, ultimately and generally, +the most happy <i>ménage</i>, I will not pretend +to say; because I have heard so much plausible, +and indeed, in some respects, substantial +reasoning in favour of the mode pursued here, +that I feel it may be considered as doubtful: but +as to which is and must be most agreeable to +the parties chiefly concerned at the time the +connexion is formed, herein I own I think there +can be no question whatever that English men +and English women have the advantage.</p> + +<p>With all the inclination in the world to believe +that France abounds with loving, constant, +faithful wives, and husbands too, I cannot but +think that if they are so, it is in spite of the +manner in which their marriages are made, and +not in consequence of it. The strongest argument +in favour of their manner of proceeding undoubtedly +is, that a husband who receives a young +wife as totally without impressions of any kind, (as +a well-brought-up French girl certainly is,) has a +better chance—or rather, has more <i>power</i> of making +her heart entirely his own, than any man can +have that falls in love with a beauty of twenty, +who may already have heard as tender sighs as +he can utter breathed in her ear by some one +who may have had no power to marry her, but +who might have had a heart to love her, and a +tongue to win her as well as himself. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_414" id="Page_414">414</a></span></p> + +<p>But against this how much is to be placed! +However dearly a Frenchwoman may love her husband, +he can never feel that it is a love which +has selected him; and though it may sometimes +happen that a pretty creature is applied for because +of her prettiness, yet if the application be +made and answered, and no question asked as to +her will or wish in the affair, she can feel but +little gratification even to her vanity—and certainly +nothing whatever approaching to a feeling +of tenderness at her heart.</p> + +<p>The force of habit is ever so inveterate, that it +is not likely either nation can be really a fair and +impartial judge of the other in a matter so entirely +regulated by it. Therefore, all that I, as +English, will venture to say farther on the subject +is, that I should be sorry on this point to see us +adopt the fashion of our neighbour France.</p> + +<p>I have reason to believe, however, that my friend +of the Luxembourg Gardens exaggerated a good +deal in his statement respecting the non-existence +of single women in France. They do exist here, +though certainly in less numbers than in England,—but +it is not so easy to find them out. With +us it is not unusual for single ladies to take what +is called <i>brevet rank</i>;—that is, Miss Dorothy +Tomkins becomes Mrs. Dorothy Tomkins—and +sometimes <i>tout bonnement</i> Mrs. Tomkins, provided +there be no collateral Mrs. Tomkins to interfere +with her: but upon no occasion do I remember +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_415" id="Page_415">415</a></span> +that any lady in this predicament called herself +the widow Tomkins, or the widow anything else.</p> + +<p>Here, however, I am assured that the case is +different; and that, let the number of spinsters be +great or small, no one but the near connexions +and most intimate friends of the party know anything +of the matter. Many a <i>veuve respectable</i> +has never had a husband in her life; and I have +heard it positively affirmed, that the secret is often +so well kept, that the nieces and nephews of a +family do not know their maiden aunts from their +widowed ones.</p> + +<p>This shows, at least, that matrimony is considered +here as a more honourable state than that +of celibacy; though it does not quite go the length +of proving that all single women drown themselves.</p> + +<p>But before I quit this subject, I must say a few +words to you concerning the old maids of England. +There are few things which chafe my spirit +more than hearing single women spoken of with +contempt because they are such, or seeing them +treated with less consideration and attention than +those who chance to be married. The cruelty +and injustice of this must be obvious to every one +upon a moment's thought; but to me its absurdity +is more obvious still.</p> + +<p>It is, I believe, a notorious fact, that there is +scarcely a woman to be found, of any rank under +that of a princess of the blood royal, who, at the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_416" id="Page_416">416</a></span> +age of fifty, has not at some time or in some +manner had the power of marrying if she chose +it. That many who have had this power have +been tyrannically or unfortunately prevented from +using it, is certain; but there is nothing either +ridiculous or contemptible in this.</p> + +<p>Still less does a woman merit scorn if she has +had the firmness and constancy of purpose to +prefer a single life because she has considered it +best and fittest for her: in fact, I know nothing +more high-minded than the doing so. The sneering +which follows female celibacy is so well +known and so coarsely manifested, that it shows +very considerable dignity of character to enable a +woman to endure it, rather than act against her +sense of what is right.</p> + +<p>I by no means say this by way of running a-tilt +against all the ladies in France who have submitted, +<i>bon gré, mal gré</i>, to become wives at the +command of their fathers, mothers, uncles, aunts, +and guardians: they have done exactly what +they ought, and I hope all their pretty little quiet-looking +daughters will do the same; it is the +custom of the country, and cannot discreetly be +departed from. But being on the subject, I am +led, while defending our own modes of proceeding +in the important affair of marriage, to remark also +on the result of them. In permitting a young +woman to become acquainted with the man who +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_417" id="Page_417">417</a></span> +proposes for her before she consents to pass her +whole life with him, I certainly see some advantage; +but in my estimation there is more still in +the protection which our usage in these matters +affords to those who, rather than marry a man +who is not the object of their choice, prefer remaining +single. I confess, too, that I consider the +class of single women as an extremely important +one. Their entire freedom from control gives them +great power over their time and resources, much +more than any other woman can possibly possess +who is not a childless widow. That this power is +often—very often—nobly used, none can deny who +are really and thoroughly acquainted with English +society; and if among the class there be some +who love cards, and tattle, and dress, and slander, +they should be treated with just the same measure +of contempt as the married ladies who may also +occasionally be found to love cards, and tattle, and +dress, and slander,—but with no more.</p> + +<p>It has been my chance, and I imagine that it +has been the chance of most other people, to have +found my dearest and most constant friends among +single women. Of all the Helenas and Hermias +that before marriage have sat "upon one cushion, +warbling of one song," even for years together, how +few are there who are not severed by marriage! +Kind feelings may be retained, and correspondence +(lazily enough) kept up; but to whom is it +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_418" id="Page_418">418</a></span> +that the anxious mother, watching beside the sick +couch of her child, turns for sympathy and consolation?—certainly +not to the occupied and perhaps +distant wedded confidante of her youthful +days, but to her maiden sister or her maiden +friend. Nor is it only in sickness that such +friends are among the first blessings of life: they +violate no duty by giving their time and their +talents to society; and many a day through every +house in England has probably owed some of its +most delightful hours to the presence of those +whom no duty has called</p> + +<p class="poem"> +"To suckle fools or chronicle small beer,"</p> + +<p>and whose talents, therefore, are not only at their +own disposal, but in all probability much more +highly cultivated than any possessed by their +married friends.</p> + +<p>Thus, spite of him of the Luxembourg, I am +most decidedly of opinion, that, in England at +least, there is no reason whatever that an unmarried +woman should consign herself to the fate of +the unfortunate Mademoiselle Isabelle.</p> + +<p class="center p4">END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.</p> + +<p class="center p2 s08">LONDON:</p> + +<p class="center s08">PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY,<br /> +Dorset Street, Fleet Street.</p> + +<div class="footnotes p6"> +<p class="center b13">FOOTNOTES</p> +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> April 1835.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> G. Sand.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> <i>Translation.</i>—He will continue then firmly; and every +time that he shall think it necessary to make visible to all, in +its least details, a useful idea, a social idea, a humane idea, +he will place upon it the theatre, as a magnifying-glass.</p> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. +1 of 2), by Frances Milton Trollope + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PARIS AND THE PARISIANS IN 1835 *** + +***** This file should be named 38997-h.htm or 38997-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/9/9/38997/ + +Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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