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diff --git a/38933-8.txt b/38933-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index fd847ed..0000000 --- a/38933-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1835 +0,0 @@ - BY CANADIAN STREAMS - - - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost -no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it -under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this -eBook or online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license. - - -Title: By Canadian Streams - -Author: Lawrence J. Burpee - -Release Date: July 02, 2012 [EBook #38933] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BY CANADIAN STREAMS *** - - - - -Produced by Al Haines. - - - - -[Illustration: Cover] - - - - - BY CANADIAN STREAMS - - - BY - - LAWRENCE J. BURPEE - - - - - TORONTO - THE MUSSON BOOK COMPANY LIMITED - - - - - _Entered at_ - _Stationers Hall_ - 1909 - - - - - THE RIVERS OF CANADA - - -Who that has travelled upon their far-spreading waters has not felt the -compelling charm of the rivers of Canada? The matchless variety of their -scenery, from the gentle grace of the Sissibou to the tempestuous -grandeur of the Fraser; the romance that clings to their shores--legends -and tales of Micmac and Iroquois, Cree, Blackfoot, and Chilcotin; -stories of peaceful Acadian villages beside the Gaspereau, and fortified -towns along the St. Lawrence; of warlike expeditions and missionary -enterprises up the Richelieu and the Saguenay; of heroic exploits at the -Long Sault and at Verchères; of memorable explorations in the north and -the far west? How many of us realise the illimitable possibilities of -these arteries of a nation, their vital importance as avenues of -commerce and communication, the potential energy stored in their rushing -waters? Do we even appreciate their actual extent, or thoroughly grasp -the fact that this network of waterways covers half a continent, and -reaches every corner of this vast Dominion? - -Two hundred years ago little was known of these rivers outside the -valley of the St. Lawrence. One hundred years later scores of new -waterways had been explored from source to outlet, some of them ranking -among the great rivers of the earth. The Western Sea, that had lured -the restless sons of New France toward the setting sun, that had -furnished a dominating impulse to her explorers, from Jacques Cartier to -La Vérendrye, was at last reached by Canadians of another race--and the -road that they travelled was the water-road that connects three oceans. -In their frail canoes these tireless pathfinders journeyed up the mighty -St. Lawrence and its great tributary the Ottawa, through Lake Nipissing, -and down the French river to Georgian Bay; they skirted the shores of -the inland seas to the head of Lake Superior, and by way of numberless -portages crossed the almost indistinguishable height of land to Rainy -Lake and the beautiful Lake of the Woods. They descended the wild -Winnipeg to Lake Winnipeg, paddled up the Saskatchewan to Cumberland -House, turned north by way of Frog Portage to the Churchill, and -ascended that waterway to its source, where they climbed over Meythe -Portage--famous in the annals of exploration and the fur trade--to the -Clearwater, a branch of the Athabaska, and so came to Fort Chipewyan, on -Lake Athabaska. Descending Slave River for a few miles, they came to -the mouth of Peace River, and after many days' weary paddling were in -sight of the Rocky Mountains. Still ascending the same river, they -traversed the mountains, and by other streams were borne down the -western slope to the shores of the remote Pacific. - -The world offers no parallel to this extraordinary water-road from the -Atlantic to the Pacific; nor is the tale all told. From that great -central reservoir, that master-key to the whole system of water -communications, the traveller might turn his canoe in any direction, and -traverse the length and breadth of the continent to its most remote -boundaries: east to the Atlantic, west to the Pacific, north to the -Arctic or to Hudson Bay, and south to the Gulf of Mexico. - -The story of Canadian rivers would fill several volumes if one attempted -to do justice to such a broad and varied theme. One may only hope, in -the few pages that follow, to give glimpses of the story; to suggest, -however inadequately, the dramatic and romantic possibilities of the -subject; to recall a few of the memories that cling to the rivers of -Canada. - - - - - CONTENTS - - - I. The Great River of Canada - II. The Mystic Saguenay - III. The River of Acadia - IV. The War Path of the Iroquois - V. The River of the Cataract - VI. The Highway of the Fur Trade - VII. The Red River of the North - VIII. The Mighty Mackenzie - - - - - By Canadian Streams - - - - I - - - THE GREAT RIVER OF CANADA - - - He told them of the river whose mighty current gave - Its freshness for a hundred leagues to ocean's briny wave; - He told them of the glorious scene presented to his sight, - What time he reared the cross and crown on Hochelaga's height, - And of the fortress cliff that keeps of Canada the key, - And they welcomed back Jacques Cartier from his perils over sea. - McGEE. - - -If we abandon ourselves to pure conjecture, we may carry the history of -the St. Lawrence back to the beginning of the sixteenth century, when -daring Portuguese navigators sailed into these northern latitudes; or to -the latter half of the fifteenth century, when the Basque fishermen are -said to have brought their adventurous little craft into the Gulf of St. -Lawrence; or, if you please, we may push the curtain back to the tenth -century and add another variant to the many theories as to the course of -the Northmen from Labrador to Nova Scotia. But while this would make a -romantic story, it is not history. The Vikings of Northern Europe, and -the Portuguese and Basques of Southern Europe, _may_ have sailed the -Gulf of St. Lawrence, and _may_ even have entered the estuary of the -great river, but there is no evidence that they did, and we must -surrender these picturesque myths if we are to build our story upon a -tangible foundation. - -With the advent of Jacques Cartier, the bluff and fearless mariner of -St. Malo, we are upon the solid ground of history. There is nothing -vague or uncertain about either the personality or achievements of this -Breton captain. He tells his own story, in simple and convincing -language. It does not require any peculiar gift of imagination to -picture the scene that marks the beginnings of the history of the St. -Lawrence. It was upon an autumn day, some three hundred and seventy-four -years since. Jacques Cartier, with his little fleet, had searched up and -down the coasts of the gulf for the elusive and much-desired passage to -the South Seas, but the passage was not there. His Indian guides, -Taignoagny and Domagaya, had told him something of the mighty -stream--the Great River of Canada--upon whose waters his ships were even -now sailing. How almost incredible it must have seemed to him that this -vast channel, twenty-five miles across from shore to shore, could be a -river, and nothing more! What thoughts must have surged through his -brain that here at last was the long-sought passage, the road to golden -Cathay! Even when, as he sailed onward, it became certain that this was -indeed a river, although a gigantic one, Jacques Cartier still had -reason enough to follow its beckoning finger. The Indians said that to -explore its upper waters he must take to his boats; but they told him of -three several native kingdoms that lay along its banks, and they assured -him that its source was so remote that no man had ever journeyed so far. -Moreover, it came from the south-west, and there lay, and at no -impossible distance, as report had it, the Vermilion Sea. He might well -hope to reach that sea by way of the River of Canada. In any event, he -determined to try. - -A week later the ships were anchored off an island, which Cartier named -the Isle of Bacchus, because of the abundance of grapes found upon its -shores. Before him rose the forest-clad heights of Cape Diamond, -destined to become the key to a Colonial empire, the battling-ground of -three great nations, the site of the most picturesque and most romantic -city of America. Even at this time the place was of some importance, -for here stood the native town of Stadacona, the seat of Donnacona, -"Lord of Canada." - -While the ships rode at anchor, Donnacona came down the river with -twelve canoes and a number of his people. His welcoming harangue -astonished Cartier, as much by its inordinate length as by the -extraordinary animation with which it was delivered. The explorer wasted -no time, however, in ceremonies. The season was drawing on, and much -remained to be accomplished. Finding safe quarters for two of his -vessels in the St. Charles River he continued his voyage in the third, -in spite of the opposition of Donnacona and his people, who with true -native jealousy would have prevented his further progress. The ship had -to be left behind at the mouth of the Richelieu, but with two boats, -manned by some of his sailors, Cartier pushed on to the third native -kingdom, Hochelaga, which he reached about the beginning of October. His -reception here was embarrassing in its enthusiasm, for the people of -Hochelaga testified their faith in the godlike character of their -visitor by bringing the sick and the maimed to him to be healed by his -touch. - -Climbing the mountain behind the Indian town--which still bears the name -he then gave it of Mont Royal--Cartier eagerly scanned the country to -the westward. He could trace the St. Lawrence on one side, and on the -other saw for the first time its great tributary the Ottawa. The way -was still open, but rapids barred the further progress of his boats. It -was too late to do anything more this season, and, taking leave of the -friendly people of Hochelaga, he returned down the river to Stadacona, -where in his absence his men had built a substantial fort for the -winter. With all their preparations, however, a wretched winter was -passed. The Indians, at first friendly, became distrustful under the -treacherous influence of Domagaya and Taignoagny, and kept Cartier and -his men constantly on guard against a possible attack. Added to this, -the little garrison had to endure the horrors of scurvy. When in the -following May Cartier made ready to sail back to France, he found it -necessary to abandon one of his ships and distribute the men between the -other two vessels. As some satisfaction for the annoyance he had -suffered at the hands of the Indians, Cartier succeeded in carrying away -to France not only the troublesome Taignoagny and several of his -companions, but also the chief, Donnacona. - -Cartier sailed for Canada once more in 1541, but only fragmentary -accounts are available of this voyage. The honest captain of St. Malo -never succeeded in finding the Vermilion Sea, but he had accomplished -what was of more importance to future generations--the discovery and -exploration of the noblest of Canadian rivers. No one who came after -him could add anything material to this momentous achievement. - -For more than half a century after Cartier's final return to France, the -St. Lawrence was practically abandoned to its native tribes. In 1608, -however, another famous son of Old France sailed up the St. Lawrence and -landed with his men at the foot of the same towering rock upon which the -Indian town of Stadacona had formerly stood. Nothing now remained of -Donnacona's capital, or of the tribe that once occupied the district. -The Iroquois, who in Cartier's day dwelt along the borders of the St. -Lawrence from Stadacona to Hochelaga, had for some unaccountable reason -abandoned this part of the country, and were now settled between Lake -Champlain and Lake Ontario. Champlain and those who came after him were -to find a very different welcome from the descendants of the Indians who -had welcomed Jacques Cartier to Stadacona and Hochelaga. - -Somewhere near the market-place of the Lower Town, Champlain's men fell -to work to lay the foundations of Quebec. One may get some idea of the -appearance of the group of buildings, Champlain's _Abitation_, from his -own rough sketch in the _Voyages_. "My first care," he says, "was to -build a house within which to store our provisions. This was promptly -and competently done through the activity of my men, and under my own -supervision. Near by is the St. Croix River, where of yore Cartier -spent a winter. While carpenters toiled and other mechanics were at -work on the house, the others were busy making a clearance about our -future abode; for as the land seemed fertile, I was anxious to plant a -garden and determine whether wheat and other cereals could not be grown -to advantage." - -All Champlain's men were not, however, so innocently engaged. There was -a traitor in the camp. The story is told by Champlain himself, and by -the historian Lescarbot. It has been re-told, in his characteristically -simple and graphic manner, by Francis Parkman. - -"Champlain was one morning directing his labourers when Têtu, his pilot, -approached him with an anxious countenance, and muttered a request to -speak with him in private. Champlain assenting, they withdrew to the -neighbouring woods, when the pilot disburdened himself of his secret. -One Antoine Natel, a locksmith, smitten by conscience or fear, had -revealed to him a conspiracy to murder his commander and deliver Quebec -into the hands of the Basques and Spaniards then at Tadoussac. Another -locksmith, named Duval, was author of the plot, and, with the aid of -three accomplices, had befooled or frightened nearly all the company -into taking part in it. Each was assured that he should make his -fortune, and all were mutually pledged to poniard the first betrayer of -the secret. The critical point of their enterprise was the killing of -Champlain. Some were for strangling him, some for raising a false alarm -in the night and shooting him as he came out from his quarters. - -"Having heard the pilot's story, Champlain, remaining in the woods, -desired his informant to find Antoine Natel, and bring him to the spot. -Natel soon appeared, trembling with excitement and fear, and a close -examination left no doubt of the truth of his statement. A small -vessel, built by Pont-Gravé at Tadoussac, had lately arrived, and orders -were now given that it should anchor close at hand. On board was a -young man in whom confidence could be placed. Champlain sent him two -bottles of wine, with a direction to tell the four ringleaders that they -had been given him by his Basque friends at Tadoussac, and to invite -them to share the good cheer. They came aboard in the evening, and were -seized and secured. 'Voyla donc mes galants bien estonnez,' writes -Champlain. - -"It was ten o'clock, and most of the men on shore were asleep. They -were wakened suddenly, and told of the discovery of the plot and the -arrest of the ringleaders. Pardon was then promised them, and they were -dismissed again to their beds, greatly relieved, for they had lived in -trepidation, each fearing the other. Duval's body, swinging from a -gibbet, gave wholesome warning to those he had seduced; and his head was -displayed on a pike, from the highest roof of the buildings, food for -birds, and a lesson to sedition. His three accomplices were carried by -Pont-Gravé to France, where they made their atonement in the galleys." - -Of Champlain's later history, his expedition against the Iroquois, by -way of the Richelieu River and the lake to which he gave his name, and -his exploration of the Ottawa, something will be said in later chapters. - -The next great event in the history of New France, after the founding of -Quebec by Champlain, was the coming of the Jesuit missionaries; but -though their headquarters were at Quebec, the field of their heroic -labours was for the most part in what now constitute the Province of -Ontario and the State of New York. Their story does not therefore touch -directly upon the St. Lawrence, except in so far as that river was their -road to and from the Iroquois towns and the country of the Hurons. -Indeed, by the middle of the seventeenth century, the St. Lawrence had -become the main thoroughfare of New France. A fort had been built at -the mouth of the Richelieu, a small trading settlement existed at Three -Rivers, and Maisonneuve had laid the foundations of Montreal. Between -Quebec and these new centres of population there was more or less -intercourse, and the river bore up and down the vessels of fur-trader -and merchant, priest and soldier. The St. Lawrence was the highway of -commerce, the path of the missionary, the road of war, and the one and -only means of communication for the scattered colonists. Up stream came -warlike expeditions against the troublesome Iroquois; and down stream -came the Iroquois themselves, with increasing insolence, until they -finally carried their raids down to the very walls of Quebec. The St. -Lawrence was not safe travelling in those days, for white men or red. - -During one of these forays, the Iroquois had captured two settlers, one -Godefroy and François Marguerie, an interpreter, both of Three Rivers. -When some months later the war party returned to attack Three Rivers, -they brought the Frenchmen with them, and sent Marguerie to the -commander of the fort with disgraceful terms. Marguerie urged his people -to reject the offer, and then, keeping his pledged word even to savages, -returned to face almost certain torture. Fortunately, reinforcements -arrived from Quebec in the nick of time, and the Iroquois, finding -themselves at a disadvantage, consented to the ransom of their -prisoners. - -In this same year, 1641, a little fleet which had set forth from -Rochelle some weeks before dropped anchor at Quebec, and from the ships -landed Paul de Chomedey, Sieur de Maisonneuve, with a party of -enthusiasts destined to found a religious settlement on the island of -Montreal. They were coldly received by the Governor and people of -Quebec, who were too weak themselves to care to see the tide of -population diverted to a new settlement far up the river. Maisonneuve, -however, turned a deaf ear to all their arguments. "I have not come -here," he said, "to deliberate, but to act. It is my duty and my honour -to found a colony at Montreal; and I would go, if every tree were an -Iroquois!" - -In May of the following year the expedition set forth for Montreal. -With Maisonneuve went two women, whose names were to be closely -associated with the early history of Montreal--Jeanne Mance and Madame -de la Peltrie. The Governor, Montmagny, making a virtue of necessity, -also accompanied the expedition. A more willing companion was Father -Vimont, Superior of the missions. - -It was the seventeenth of the month when the odd little flotilla--a -pinnace, a flat-bottomed craft driven by sails, and a couple of -row-boats--approached their destination. The following day they landed -at what was afterwards known as Point Callière. The scene is best -described in the words of Parkman: - -"Maisonneuve sprang ashore, and fell on his knees. His followers -imitated his example; and all joined their voices in enthusiastic songs -of thanksgiving. Tents, baggage, arms, and stores were landed. An -altar was raised on a pleasant spot near at hand; and Mademoiselle -Mance, with Madame de la Peltrie, aided by her servant, Charlotte Barré, -decorated it with a taste which was the admiration of the beholders. -Now all the company gathered before the shrine. Here stood Vimont, in -the rich vestments of his office. Here were the two ladies with their -servant; Montmagny, no very willing spectator; and Maisonneuve, a -warlike figure, erect and tall, his men clustering around him--soldiers, -sailors, artisans, and labourers--all alike soldiers at need. They -kneeled in reverent silence as the Host was raised aloft; and when the -rite was over, the priest turned and addressed them: 'You are a grain of -mustard-seed, that shall rise and grow till its branches overshadow the -earth. You are few, but your work is the work of God. His smile is on -you, and your children shall fill the land.' - -"The afternoon waned; the sun sank behind the western forest, and -twilight came on. Fireflies were twinkling over the darkened meadow. -They caught them, tied them with threads into shining festoons, and hung -them before the altar, where the Host remained exposed. Then they -pitched their tents, lighted their bivouac fires, stationed their -guards, and lay down to rest. Such was the birth-night of Montreal." - -Farther down the St. Lawrence, near the mouth of the Richelieu, stood -the fortified home of the Seigneur de la Verchères. This little fort -was from its position peculiarly exposed to the attacks of the Iroquois. -Yet men must live, whatever the risks might be. Urgent business called -the Seigneur to Quebec. Perhaps nothing had been seen or heard of the -dreaded scourge in the neighbourhood for some time. At any rate, -whether from a sense of fancied security, or from necessity which must -sometimes ignore danger, most of the men were working in the fields, at -some distance from the fort. Suddenly there was a cry, "The Iroquois!" -Madeleine, the fourteen-year-old daughter of the Seigneur, was at the -gate. She called in some women who were near at hand, and barred the -entrance. Two soldiers were in the fort, but they were paralysed with -fear. Madeleine took charge, shamed the soldiers into at least a -semblance of manhood, set every one to work to repair the defences, and -set up dummies upon the walls to deceive the Indians into the belief -that the fort was well garrisoned. She armed her two young brothers, -twelve and ten years of age, and an old man of eighty, and carried out -the deception by a ceaseless patrol throughout the night. - -Meanwhile the men in the fields had escaped, and were on their way to -Montreal for assistance. But Montreal was far off in those days, and -the relief was slow in coming. The next day, and the next, Madeleine, by -her own heroic will, kept up the spirits of her little garrison, and -they made such good use of their guns that the Iroquois dared not come -to close quarters. When day followed day without the appearance of the -hoped-for succour, the plucky girl had to struggle with desperate energy -to maintain the defence. She herself took no rest, but went from place -to place, cheering the flagging spirits of her brothers, and foiling the -enemy at every turn. At last, when a full week had gone by, the relief -party arrived from Montreal, and at their appearance the Iroquois -hastily withdrew. The men had expected to find the fort in ruins; they -were agreeably surprised to find all safe; but their amazement knew no -bounds when the gate was opened and they discovered what manner of -garrison it was that had held at bay for a week a strong party of the -ferocious Iroquois. - -One might fill many pages with such stories as these, for the early -history of the Great River of Canada, and of the settlements that grew -up along its banks, is packed with romantic incidents and dramatic -situations. These must, however, be left to other hands if we are to -find space for the stories of other Canadian streams. - - - - - II - - - THE MYSTIC SAGUENAY - - - Pile on pile - The granite masses rise to left and right; - Bald, stately bluffs that never wear a smile.... - And we must pass a thousand bluffs like these, - Within whose breasts are locked a myriad mysteries. - SANGSTER. - - - -The Saguenay is first heard of in the narrative of Cartier's second -voyage. On his way to Canada, the realm of the Iroquois sachem, -Donnacona, he came, early in September 1535, to the mouth of a great -river flowing into the St. Lawrence from the west. His native guides -told him that this river, whose gloomy majesty was to be the theme of -many later travellers, was the main road to the "kingdom of Saguenay." -One may well believe that the adventurous captain of St. Malo would -gladly have turned his ships between the towering portals of the -Saguenay, for the pure joy of discovery, had not a greater project lured -him toward the south-west. - -While his vessels were anchored off the mouth of the river, his -attention was drawn to a curious fish "which no man had ever before seen -or heard of." The Indians called them adhothuys, and told him that they -were found only in such places as this, where the waters of sea and -river mingled. Cartier says they were as large as porpoises, had the -head and body of a greyhound, and were as white as snow and without a -spot. These white porpoises, as they are now called, are still found at -the mouth of the Saguenay. At one time their capture formed an -important part of the fisheries of Tadoussac. - -There is a romantic tradition that de Roberval sailed up the Saguenay -with a company of adventurers, about the year 1549, in search of a -kingdom of fabulous riches, and that he and his men perished on the way. -It is probable, however, that the expedition had as little foundation as -the kingdom it was designed to exploit. - -Half a century later the first settlement was made at Tadoussac, at the -mouth of the Saguenay. For many years this had been a meeting-place for -the Basque traders and the Indians from the interior, but it was not -until the year 1600 that anything in the nature of a permanent post had -been established. In that year Pierre de Chauvin, Pont-Gravé, and de -Monts, sailed for the St. Lawrence, built a house at Tadoussac, and left -sixteen men there for the winter to carry on the fur-trade. The venture -was not a success, and the place was abandoned the following year, but -Tadoussac remained for many years an important point in the fur-trade. -It is said that in 1648 the traffic amounted to 250,000 livres. A -church built here by the missionaries a hundred years later is still -standing. Tadoussac is chiefly known to-day as one of the favourite -watering-places on the Lower St. Lawrence. - -It was not until three years after de Chauvin built his trading-post at -Tadoussac that the Saguenay was actually explored. Champlain and -Pont-Gravé had sailed from Honfleur, in March 1603, on the -_Bonne-Renommée_, to explore the country and find some more suitable -place than Tadoussac for a permanent settlement. After meeting a number -of friendly Indians at Tadoussac, Champlain determined to explore the -Saguenay, and actually sailed up to the head of navigation, a little -above the present town of Chicoutimi. By shrewd questions he learned -from the Indians that above the rapids the river was navigable for some -distance, that it was again broken by rapids at its outlet from a big -lake (Lake St. John), that three rivers fell into this lake, and that -beyond these rivers were strange tribes who lived on the borders of the -sea. This sea was the great bay, as yet undiscovered, where Henry -Hudson was seven years later to win an imperishable name, and die a -victim to the treachery of his crew. - -In 1608 Champlain again visited Tadoussac, on his way up the St. -Lawrence to lay the foundations of Quebec. His companion, Pont-Gravé, -had arrived in another vessel a few days before, armed with the King's -commission granting him a monopoly of the fur-trade for one year. When -he reached Tadoussac he found the enterprising Basques already on the -ground, and carrying on a brisk trade with the Indians. They treated -the royal letters with contempt, ridiculed Pont-Gravé's monopoly, and, -finally boarding his ship, carried off his guns and ammunition. The -opportune arrival of Champlain, however, brought them to terms, and they -finally agreed to return to their legitimate occupation of catching -whales, leaving the fur-trade, for a time at least, to Pont-Gravé and -Champlain. - -The Indians who chiefly frequented Tadoussac at this time were of the -tribe called Montagnais. Their hunting-ground was the country drained -by the Saguenay, and they acted as middlemen for the tribes of the far -north, bringing their furs down to the French at Tadoussac, and carrying -back the prized trinkets of the white man, which they no doubt bartered -to their northerly neighbours at an exorbitant profit. - -"Indefatigable canoe-men," says Parkman, "in their birchen vessels, -light as egg-shells, they threaded the devious tracks of countless -rippling streams, shady by-ways of the forest, where the wild duck -scarcely finds depth to swim; then descended to their mart along those -scenes of picturesque yet dreary grandeur which steam has made familiar -to modern tourists. With slowly moving paddles, they glided beneath the -cliff whose shaggy brows frown across the zenith, and whose base the -deep waves wash with a hoarse and hollow cadence; and they passed the -sepulchral Bay of the Trinity, dark as the tide of Acheron,--a sanctuary -of solitude and silence: depths which, as the fable runs, no -sounding-line can fathom, and heights at whose dizzy verge the wheeling -eagle seems a speck." - -Fifty-eight years after Champlain's voyage up the Saguenay, two Jesuit -missionaries, Claude Dablon and Gabriel Druillettes, set forth from -Tadoussac with a large party of Indians in forty canoes. Their object -was to meet the northern Indians at Lake Nekouba, near the height of -land, and if possible push on to Hudson Bay. It is clear from their -narrative that French traders or missionaries had already ascended the -Saguenay as far as Lake St. John, but beyond that Dablon and Druillettes -entered upon a country which was hitherto unknown to the French. After -suffering great hardships, the party at last arrived at Lake Nekouba, -where they found a large gathering of Indians, representing many of the -surrounding tribes. But while the missionaries were addressing the -Indians, word came that a war party of Mohawks had penetrated even to -these remote fastnesses. So overpowering was the dread which these -redoubtable warriors had inspired among all the tribes of North-eastern -America, that the gathering broke up in confusion. Every man made off -to his own home, hoping that he might not meet an Iroquois at the -portage; and as the Indians of Father Dablon's party were as -fear-stricken as the rest, all idea of continuing the journey to Hudson -Bay had to be abandoned, and the missionaries were obliged to retrace -their steps to Tadoussac. - -A decade later, another missionary, Father Albanel, with a Colonial -officer, Denys de Saint Simon, were more fortunate. Following Dablon's -route to the height of land, they pushed on to Lake Mistassini, and -descended Rupert's River to Hudson Bay, where they found a small vessel -flying the English flag, and two houses, but the English themselves were -apparently away on some trading expedition. - -The Jesuit missionaries seemed to have discovered at an early date the -advantages of Lake St. John as the site of one of their missions. In -1808 the ruins of their settlement were still visible on the south side -of the lake. James McKenzie, of the North-West Company, who visited the -"King's Posts" in that year, says that "the plum and apple trees of -their garden, grown wild through want of care, yet bear fruit in -abundance. The foundation of their church and other buildings, as well -as the churchyard, are still visible. The bell of their church, two -iron spades, a horseshoe, a scythe and a bar of iron two feet in length, -have lately been dug out of the ruins of this apparently once -flourishing spot, and, adjoining, is an extensive plain or meadow on -which much timothy hay grows." Elsewhere Mr. McKenzie mentions that the -Fathers had mills on Lake St. John, some of the materials used in their -construction having been found there by officers of the North-West -Company. He adds that an island in the lake, not far from where the -mission formerly stood, swarms with snakes, which a local tradition -credited to the power of the worthy Jesuits. The Fathers found them -inconveniently numerous about their settlement, and conjured them on to -the island. - -A settlement of some kind was made at Chicoutimi, on the Saguenay, early -in the eighteenth century. A chapel and store, still standing in 1808, -bore an inscription that they had been built in 1707. Father Coquart -records that in 1750 there was a saw-mill on the River Oupaouétiche, one -and a half leagues above Chicoutimi, which worked two saws night and -day. - - - - - III - - - THE RIVER OF ACADIA - - - Along my fathers' dykes I roam again, - Among the willows by the river-side. - These miles of green I know from hill to tide, - And every creek and river's ruddy stain. - Neglected long and shunned, our dead have lain. - Here, where a people's dearest hope has died, - Alone of all their children scattered wide, - I scan the sad memorials that remain. - HERBIN. - - - -Some time about the middle of the seventeenth century, an Acadian, -sailing perhaps from Port Royal in search of peltries or of mere -adventure, brought his little vessel by great good luck safely through -that treacherous channel, guarded at one end by Cape Split and at the -other by the frowning crest of Blomidon, and found himself upon the -placid waters of the Basin of Minas. Champlain had sailed across the -mouth of the basin in 1604, and had called it the Port des Mines, -because of certain copper-mines which he had been led to expect there. -This Acadian found something better than copper-mines. Safely past -Blomidon, he came to a land which nature seemed to have set apart as the -home of an industrious and peace-loving people. Somewhere about the -mouth of the Gaspereau he built his home. Others followed, and in time -a long, straggling village grew up; willows were planted, which stand -to-day as a memorial of this Acadian colony; and after years of toil -they completed that still more impressive monument of Acadian industry, -the "long ramparts of their dykes," by which they fenced out the sea -from the rich and fertile lowlands, and turned these once tide-swept -flats into green meadows. - -The Gaspereau country must have been beautiful enough when the Acadians -first came to make their home there, but in the years of their -occupation they gave to the landscape, quite unconsciously no doubt, -certain subtle touches that turned it into something little less than an -earthly paradise. Standing upon the ridge and looking down into the -valley of the Gaspereau, one sees a scene that it not very materially -changed from the days of the Acadians--after one has eliminated such -modern excrescences as railways and bridges. The village of Grand Pré -would have to be rearranged, no doubt. There was less of it in the first -half of the eighteenth century; it did not cover quite the same ground; -but no doubt a traveller who came that way in 1750 would have seen in -the vale beneath many such picturesque cottages embowered in the -self-same trees, and the rest of the scene would have been much the same -as he would see to-day. Charles Roberts, the Canadian poet, novelist, -and historian, has made a word-picture of it. "The picture is an -exquisite pastoral. Among such deep fields, such billowy groves, and -such embosomed farmsteads might Theocritus have wrought his idylls to -the hum of the heavy bees. Along the bottom of the sun-brimmed vale -sparkles the river, between its banks of wild rose and convolvulus, with -here and there a clump of grey-green willows, here and there a -red-and-white bridge. As it nears its mouth the Gaspereau changes its -aspect. Its complexion of clear amber grows yellow and opaque as it -mixes with the uprushing tides of Minas, and its widened channel winds -through a riband of dyked marshes." - -This is the valley of the Gaspereau, one of the most beautiful spots in -the beautiful province of Nova Scotia. This, too, in that far-off -autumn of 1755, was the scene of one of the most pathetic and tragic -incidents in the history of America. It would serve no useful purpose -to discuss that much-debated question of the whys and wherefores of the -expulsion of the Acadians. The story of the actual tragedy is all we -have space for here. That story is alone sufficient to make the -Gaspereau famous among rivers of Canada, and it is best told in the -language of Francis Parkman. Governor Lawrence had summoned the -deputies of the Acadian settlements to appear before him at Halifax, to -take the oath of allegiance and fidelity. They came, but flatly refused -to take the oath. The Governor and Council thereupon decided that the -only thing that remained to be done was to deport them from the colony. -John Winslow, a Colonial officer from Massachusetts, was charged with -the duty of securing the inhabitants about the Basin of Minas. On -August 14, 1755, he set forth from his camp at Fort Beausejour, with a -force of but two hundred and ninety-seven men. He sailed down Chignecto -Channel to the Bay of Fundy. "Here, while they waited the turn of the -tide to enter the Basin of Minas," says Parkman, "the shores of -Cumberland lay before them dim in the hot and hazy air, and the -promontory of Cape Split, like some misshapen monster of primeval chaos, -stretched its portentous length along the glimmering sea, with head of -yawning rock, and ridgy back bristled with forests. Borne on the -rushing flood, they soon drifted through the inlet, glided under the -rival promontory of Cape Blomidon, passed the red sandstone cliffs of -Lyon's Cove, and descried the mouths of the Rivers Canard and Des -Habitants, where fertile marshes, diked against the tide, sustained a -numerous and thriving population. Before them spread the boundless -meadows of Grand Pré, waving with harvests, or alive with grazing -cattle; the green slopes behind were dotted with the simple dwellings of -the Acadian farmers, and the spire of the village church rose against a -background of woody hills. It was a peaceful, rural scene, soon to -become one of the most wretched spots on earth." - -After conferring with his brother officer, Murray, who was encamped with -his men on the banks of the Pisiquid, where the town of Windsor now -stands, Winslow returned to Grand Pré. The Acadian elders were told to -remove all sacred things from the village church, and the building was -then used as a storehouse. The men pitched their tents outside, while -Winslow took possession of the priest's house. A summons was sent to -the male inhabitants of the district, over ten years of age, to attend -at the church in Grand Pré, on the fifth of September, at three of the -clock in the afternoon, "that we may impart what we are ordered to -communicate to them; declaring that no excuse will be admitted on any -pretence whatsoever, on pain of forfeiting goods and chattels in -default." - -"On the next day," continues Parkman, "the inhabitants appeared at the -hour appointed, to the number of four hundred and eighteen men. Winslow -ordered a table to be set in the middle of the church, and placed on it -his instructions and the address he had prepared." It ran partly as -follows: "The duty I am now upon, though necessary, is very disagreeable -to my natural make and temper, as I know it must be grievous to you, who -are of the same species. But it is not my business to animadvert on the -orders I have received, but to obey them; and therefore without -hesitation I shall deliver to you His Majesty's instructions and -commands, which are that your lands and tenements and cattle and -live-stock of all kinds are forfeited to the Crown, with all your other -effects, except money and household goods, and that you yourselves are -to be removed from this his province. The peremptory orders of His -Majesty are that all the French inhabitants of these districts be -removed; and through His Majesty's goodness I am directed to allow you -the liberty of carrying with you your money and as many of your -household goods as you can take without overloading the vessels you go -in. I shall do everything in my power that all these goods be secured -to you, and that you be not molested in carrying them away, and also -that whole families shall go in the same vessel; so that this removal, -which I am sensible must give you a great deal of trouble, may be made -as easy as His Majesty's service will admit; and I hope that in whatever -part of the world your lot may fall, you may be faithful subjects, and a -peaceable and happy people." - -After weary weeks of delay, which tried Winslow's patience to the -utmost, the transports at last arrived at the mouth of the Gaspereau, -and the work of embarkation began. Up to the very last the Acadians -could not believe that the order of deportation was serious, and when -they finally realised their fate and knew that they must bid farewell -for ever to their homes--the homes of their fathers, the land that they -loved so well--their grief was indescribable. "Began to embark the -inhabitants," says Winslow in his Diary, "who went off very solentarily -and unwillingly, the women in great distress, carrying off their -children in their arms; others carrying their decrepit parents in their -carts, with all their goods; moving in great confusion, and appeared a -scene of woe and distress." It was late in December before the last -transport left the mouth of the Gaspereau. Altogether more than -twenty-one hundred Acadians were exiled from Grand Pré and the country -round about. They were distributed along the Atlantic coast, from -Massachusetts to Georgia. Some made their way to Louisiana; some -escaped and reached Canada. "Some," says Parkman, "after incredible -hardship, made their way back to Acadia, where, after the peace, they -remained unmolested, and, with those who had escaped seizure, became the -progenitors of the present Acadians, now settled in various parts of the -British maritime provinces." Few of them, however, returned at any time -to Grand Pré, and that once thriving settlement remained desolate for -several years, until at last British families straggled in and took up -the waste lands of the unfortunate Acadians. - - - - - IV - - - THE WAR-PATH OF THE IROQUOIS - - -The story of the Richelieu River is a story of war and conflict. It -opens just three hundred years ago, when Champlain set out from Quebec -to join a war-party of Algonquins and Hurons, who had determined to seek -the Iroquois in their own country, and had begged him to aid in the -expedition. In consenting to do so, Champlain no doubt felt that he had -good and sufficient reasons, but if he could have foreseen the -consequences of his act he would surely have left the Algonquins and -Iroquois to settle their difficulties in their own way, for from this -first act of aggression dates the implacable hatred of the Iroquois for -the French, and a century and more of ferocious raids into every corner -of the struggling colony. - -Champlain, with his little party of French and a horde of naked savages, -reached the mouth of the Richelieu, or the River of the Iroquois as it -was then called, about the end of June 1609. The Indians quarrelled -among themselves, and three-fourths of their number deserted and made -off for home. The rest continued their course up the waters of the -Richelieu. When they reached the rapids, above the Basin of Chambly, it -was found impossible to take the shallop in which the French had -travelled any farther. Sending most of his men back to Quebec, he -himself, with two companions, determined to see the adventure through. -After many days' hard paddling, the flotilla of canoes swept out on to -the bosom of the noble lake which perpetuates the name of Champlain, and -in the evening of the twenty-ninth of July they discovered the Iroquois -in their canoes, near the point of land where Fort Ticonderoga was long -afterwards built. The Iroquois made for the shore, and as night was -falling it was mutually agreed to defer the battle until the following -morning. The Iroquois threw up a barricade, while Champlain and his -native allies spent the night in their canoes on the lake. - -In the morning Champlain and his two men put on light armour, and the -whole party landed at some distance from the Iroquois. "I saw the enemy -go out of their barricade," says Champlain, "nearly two hundred in -number, stout and rugged in appearance. They came at a slow pace -towards us, with a dignity and assurance which greatly amused me, having -three chiefs at their head. Our men also advanced in the same order, -telling me that those who had three large plumes were the chiefs, and -that I should do what I could to kill them. I promised to do all in my -power. - -"As soon as we had landed, they began to run for some two hundred paces -towards their enemies, who stood firmly, not having as yet noticed my -companions, who went into the woods with some savages. Our men began to -call me with loud cries; and in order to give me a passage-way, they -opened in two parts, and put me at their head, where I marched some -twenty paces in advance of the rest, until I was within about thirty -paces of the enemy, who at once noticed me, and, halting, gazed at me, -as I did also at them. When I saw them making a move to fire at us, I -rested my musket against my cheek, and aimed directly at one of the -three chiefs. With the same shot two fell to the ground, and one of -their men was so wounded that he died some time after. I had loaded my -musket with four balls. When our side saw this shot so favourable for -them, they began to raise such loud cries that one could not have heard -it thunder. Meanwhile, the arrows flew on both sides. The Iroquois -were greatly astonished that two men had been so quickly killed, -although they were equipped with armour woven from cotton thread, and -with wood which was proof against their arrows. This caused great alarm -among them. As I was loading again, one of my companions fired a shot -from the woods, which astonished them anew to such a degree that, seeing -their chiefs dead, they lost courage, and took to flight, abandoning -their camp and fort, and fleeing into the woods, whither I pursued them, -killing still more of them. Our savages also killed several, and took -ten or twelve prisoners. The remainder escaped with the wounded. - -"After gaining the victory, our men amused themselves by taking a great -quantity of Indian corn and some meal from their enemies, also their -armour, which they had left behind that they might run better. After -feasting sumptuously, dancing and singing, we returned three hours -after, with the prisoners." - -On the return journey, the Algonquins tied one of the prisoners to a -stake, and tortured him with such refinement of cruelty as to arouse the -disgust and resentment of Champlain. Finally, they allowed him to put -the wretched Iroquois out of his misery with a musket-ball. Arrived at -the rapids, the Algonquins and Hurons returned to their own country, -with loud protestations of friendship for Champlain, while the latter -continued his journey down to Quebec. - -If anything remained to heap the cup of Iroquois resentment to the brim, -it was provided the following year, when Champlain again lent his -assistance to the Algonquins and Hurons, and, encountering a war-party -of Iroquois, a hundred strong, near the mouth of the Richelieu, killed -or captured every one of them. The day was to come when the tables -would be turned with a vengeance, when the war-cry of the Iroquois would -be heard under the walls of Montreal and Quebec, and the death of each -of the hundred warriors avenged a hundredfold. - -But the sanguinary story of the Richelieu is not limited to Indian wars, -or the conflict between Indian and French. In later years it was to -become the road of war between white and white, between New England and -New France, and again between the revolted colonists of New England and -the loyal colonists of Canada. On the very spot where Champlain and his -Algonquins had defeated the Iroquois, one hundred and fifty years later -another conflict took place, curiously similar in some respects, though -different enough in others. Again one side fought behind a barricade, -while the other gallantly rushed to the assault, and again the defeat -was overwhelming; but there the resemblance ends. Behind the -impregnable breastwork at Ticonderoga stood Montcalm with his three or -four thousand French; without stood Abercrombie, with fifteen thousand -British regulars and Colonial militia. Abercrombie's one and only idea -was to carry the position by assault, and throughout the long day he -hurled regiment after regiment up the deadly slope, only to see them -mown down by hundreds and thousands before the breastwork. Champlain's -victory was one of civilisation over savagery; Montcalm's was one of -skill over stupidity. - -Seventeen years after the battle of Ticonderoga, the Richelieu once more -became the road of war. Down its historic waters came Montgomery, with -his three thousand Americans, to capture Montreal and to be driven back -from the walls of Quebec. Among all the singular circumstances that led -up to and accompanied this disastrous attempt to relieve Canadians of -the British yoke, none was more remarkable, or more significant, than -the fact that the bulk of the plucky little army with which Guy Carleton -successfully defended England's northern colony consisted of -French-Canadians--the same down-trodden French-Canadians on whose behalf -Congress had sent an army to drive the British into the sea. As for the -Richelieu, having served for the better part of two centuries as the -pathway of savage and civilised war, its energies were at length turned -into channels of peaceful commerce. - - - - - V - - - THE RIVER OF THE CATARACT - - - That dread abyss! What mortal tongue may tell - The seething horrors of its watery hell! - Where, pent in craggy walls that gird the deep, - Imprisoned tempests howl, and madly sweep - The tortured floods, drifting from side to side - In furious vortices. - KIRBY. - - - -Father Louis Hennepin, in his _New Discovery of a Vast Country in -America_, gives the earliest known description of the river and falls of -Niagara. "Betwixt the Lake Ontario and Erie," he says, "there is a vast -and prodigious Cadence of Water which falls down after a surprising and -astonishing manner, insomuch that the Universe does not afford its -Parallel. 'Tis true, Italy and Suedeland boast of some such Things; but -we may as well say they are but sorry Patterns, when compar'd to this of -which we now speak. At the foot of this horrible Precipice, we meet -with the River Niagara, which is not above half a quarter of a League -broad, but is wonderfully deep in some places. It is so rapid above -this Descent that it violently hurries down the wild Beasts while -endeavouring to pass it to feed on the other side, they not being able -to withstand the force of its Current, which inevitably casts them down -headlong above Six hundred foot. This wonderful Downfall is compounded -of two great Cross-streams of Water, and two Falls, with an Isle sloping -along the middle of it. The Waters which Fall from this vast height, do -foam and boil after the most hideous manner imaginable, making an -outrageous Noise, more terrible than that of Thunder; for when the Wind -blows from off the South, their dismal roaring may be heard above -fifteen Leagues off. The River Niagara having thrown itself down this -incredible Precipice, continues its impetuous course for two Leagues -together, to the great Rock, with an inexpressible Rapidity: But having -passed that, its Impetuosity relents, gliding along more gently for two -Leagues, till it arrives at the Lake Ontario, or Frontenac." - -This same year, 1678, when Hennepin visited the great falls, La Salle, -with his lieutenants Tonty and La Motte, were busy with preparations for -their western explorations, and in these the Niagara River was to play -an important part. It was about the middle of November when La Motte, -with Father Hennepin and sixteen men, sailed from Fort Frontenac -(Kingston) in a little vessel of ten tons. "The winds and the cold of -the autumn," says Hennepin, "were then very violent, insomuch that our -crew was afraid to go into so little a vessel. This oblig'd us to keep -our course on the north side of the lake, to shelter ourselves under the -coast against the north-west wind." On the twenty-sixth they were in -great danger, a couple of leagues off shore, where they were obliged to -lie at anchor all night. The wind coming round to the north-east, -however, they managed to continue their voyage, and arrived safely at an -Iroquois village called Tajajagon, where Toronto stands to-day. They -ran their little ship into the mouth of the Humber, where the Iroquois -came to barter Indian corn, and gaze in open-mouthed wonder at the -marvellous inventions of the white men. Contrary winds and trouble with -the ice kept them there until the fifth of December, when they crossed -the lake to the mouth of the Niagara. "On the 6th, being St. Nicholas's -Day," says Hennepin, "we got into the fine River Niagara, into which -never any such Ship as ours enter'd before. We sung there Te Deum, and -other prayers, to return our thanks to Almighty God for our prosperous -voyage." After examining the river as far as Chippewa Creek, La Motte, -Hennepin and the men set to work to build a cabin, surrounded by -palisades, two leagues above the mouth of the river. The ground was -frozen, and hot water had to be used to thaw it out before the stakes -could be driven in. The Iroquois, who according to Hennepin had been -very friendly on their arrival at the mouth of the river, presenting -them with fish, imputing their good fortune in the fisheries to the -white men, and examining with interest and astonishment the "great -wooden canoe," grew sullen and suspicious when they saw the strangers -building a fortified house on what they considered peculiarly their own -territory. La Motte and Hennepin went off to the great village of the -Senecas, beyond the Genesee, to obtain their consent to the building of -the fort, but without much success. Soon after their departure, La -Salle and Tonty reached the Seneca village, on their way from Fort -Frontenac to the Niagara. More persuasive, or more fortunate than his -lieutenant, La Salle secured permission not only for the fortified post -at the mouth of the river, but also for a much more important -undertaking which he had planned, the building of a vessel at the upper -end of the Niagara River, to be used in connection with his western -explorations. - -During the winter the necessary material for the _Griffin_, as the new -vessel was to be called, was carried over the long portage to the mouth -of Cayuga Creek, above the falls, where a dock was prepared and the keel -laid. La Salle sent the master-carpenter to Hennepin to desire him to -drive the first bolt, but, as he says, his profession obliged him to -decline the honour. La Salle returned to Fort Frontenac, leaving Tonty -to finish the work. The Iroquois, in spite of their agreement with La -Salle, watched the building of the _Griffin_ with jealous -dissatisfaction, and kept the little band of Frenchmen in a state of -constant anxiety. Fortunately, one of their expeditions against the -neighbouring tribes took the majority of them off, and the work was -pushed forward with redoubled zeal, so that it might be completed before -their return. The Indians that remained behind were too few to make an -open attack, but they did their utmost to prevent the completion of the -ship. One of them, feigning drunkenness, attacked the blacksmith and -tried to kill him, but was driven off with a red-hot bar. Hennepin -naïvely remarks that this, "together with the reprimand he received from -me," obliged him to be gone. A native woman warned Tonty that an -attempt would be made to burn the vessel. Failing in this, the Senecas -tried to starve the French by refusing to sell them corn, and might have -succeeded but for the efforts of two Mohegan hunters, who kept the -workmen supplied with game from the surrounding forest. Finally, the -_Griffin_ was launched, amid the shouts of the French and the yelpings -of the Indians, who forgot their displeasure in the novel spectacle. -She was towed up the Niagara, and on the seventh of August, 1679, La -Salle and his men sailed out over the placid waters of Lake Erie, the -booming of his cannon announcing the approach of the first ship of the -upper lakes. In the _Griffin_ La Salle sailed through Lakes Eric, St. -Clair, and Huron, to Michilimackinac, and thence crossed Lake Michigan -to the entrance to Green Bay, where some of his men, sent on ahead, had -collected a quantity of valuable furs. These he determined to send back -to Canada, to satisfy the clamorous demands of his creditors, while he -continued his voyage to the Mississippi. The _Griffin_ set sail for -Niagara on the eighteenth of September. She never reached her -destination, and her fate has remained one of the mysteries of Canadian -history. - - - - - VI - - - THE HIGHWAY OF THE FUR TRADE - - - Dear dark-brown waters, full of all the stain - Of sombre spruce-woods and the forest fens, - Laden with sound from far-off northern glens - Where winds and craggy cataracts complain, - Voices of streams and mountain pines astrain, - The pines that brood above the roaring foam - Of La Montague or Des Erables; thine home - Is distant yet, a shelter far to gain. - Aye, still to eastward, past the shadowy lake - And the long slopes of Rigaud toward the sun. - The mightier stream, thy comrade, waits for thee, - The beryl waters that espouse and take - Thine in their deep embrace, and bear thee on - In that great bridal journey to the sea. - LAMPMAN. - - - -While Champlain was in Paris, in 1612, a young man, one Nicolas de -Vignau, whom he had sent the previous year to visit the tribes of the -Ottawa, reappeared, with a marvellous tale of what he had seen on his -travels. He had found a great lake, he said, and out of it a river -flowing north, which he had descended and reached the shores of the sea, -where he had seen the wreck of an English ship. Seventeen days' travel -by canoe, said Vignau, would bring one to the shores of his sea. -Champlain was delighted, and prepared immediately to follow up this -important discovery. He returned to Canada, and about the end of May -1613 set out from Montreal with Vignau and three companions. The rest -of the story is better told in Parkman's words--and Parkman is here at -his very best. - -"All day they plied their paddles, and when the night came they made -their campfire in the forest. Day dawned. The east glowed with -tranquil fire, that pierced, with eyes of flame, the fir-trees whose -jagged tops stood drawn in black against the burning heaven. Beneath -the glossy river slept in shadow, or spread far and wide in sheets of -burnished bronze; and the white moon, paling in the face of day, hung -like a disk of silver in the western sky. Now a fervid light touched -the dead top of the hemlock, and, creeping downward, bathed the mossy -beard of the patriarchal cedar, unstirred in the breathless air. Now, a -fiercer spark beamed from the east; and now, half risen on the sight, a -dome of crimson fire, the sun blazed with floods of radiance across the -awakened wilderness. - -"The canoes were launched again, and the voyagers held their course. -Soon the still surface was flecked with spots of foam; islets of froth -floated by, tokens of some great convulsion. Then, on their left, the -falling curtain of the Rideau shone like silver betwixt its bordering -woods, and in front, white as a snow-drift, the cataracts of the -Chaudière barred their way. They saw the unbridled river careering down -its sheeted rocks, foaming in unfathomed chasms, wearying the solitude -with the hoarse outcry of its agony and rage." - -While the Indians threw an offering into the foam as an offering to the -Manitou of the cataract, Champlain and his men shouldered their canoes -and climbed over the long portage to the quiet waters of the Lake of the -Chaudière, now Lake Des Chênes. Past the Falls of the Chats and a long -succession of rapids they made their way, until at last, discouraged by -the difficulties of the river, they took to the woods, and made their -way through them, tormented by mosquitoes, to the village of Tessouat, -one of the principal chiefs of the Algonquins, who welcomed Champlain to -his country. - -Feasting, the smoking of ceremonial pipes, and a great deal of -speech-making followed. Champlain asked for men and canoes to conduct -him to the country of the Nipissings, through whom he hoped to reach the -North Sea. Tessouat and his elders looked dubious. They had no love -for the Nipissings, and preferred to keep Champlain among themselves. -Finally, at his urgent solicitation, they agreed, but as soon as he had -left the lodge they changed their minds. Champlain returned and -upbraided them as children who could not hold fast to their word. They -replied that they feared that he would be lost in the wild north -country, and among the treacherous Nipissings. - -"But," replied Champlain, "this young man, Vignau, has been to their -country, and did not find the road or the people so bad as you have -said." - -"Nicholas," demanded Tessouat, "did you say that you had been to the -Nipissings?" - -"Yes," he replied, "I have been there," - -"You are a liar," returned the unceremonious host; "you know very well -that you slept here among my children every night, and got up again -every morning; and if you ever went to the Nipissings, it must have been -when you were asleep. How can you be so impudent as to lie to your -chief, and so wicked as to risk his life among so many dangers? He -ought to kill you with tortures worse than those with which we kill our -enemies." - -Vignau held out stoutly for a time, but finally broke down and confessed -his treachery. This "most impudent liar," as Champlain calls him, seems -to have had no more substantial motive for his outrageous fabrication -than vanity and the love of notoriety. Champlain spurned him from his -presence, and in bitter disappointment retraced his steps to Montreal. - -From the days of Champlain to the close of the period of French rule, -and for many years thereafter, the Ottawa was known as the main -thoroughfare from Montreal to the great west. Up these waters -generation after generation of fur-traders made their way, their canoes -laden with goods, to be exchanged at remote posts on the Assiniboine, -the Saskatchewan, or the Athabasca, for skins brought in by all the -surrounding tribes. Long before the first settler came to clear the -forest and make a home for himself in the wilderness, these banks echoed -to the shouts of French _voyageurs_ and Indian canoe-men, and the gay -songs of Old Canada. Many a weary hour of paddling under a hot -midsummer sun, and many a long and toilsome portage, were lightened by -the rollicking chorus of "En roulant ma boule," or the tender refrain of -"A la claire fontaine." These inimitable folk-songs became in time a -link between the old days of the fur-trade and the later period of the -lumber traffic. It is indeed not so many years ago that one might sit -on the banks of the Ottawa, in the long summer evenings, and, as the -mighty rafts of logs floated past, catch the familiar refrain, softened -by distance: - - Rouli, roulant, ma boule roulant, - En roulant ma boule roulant, - En roulant ma boule. - - - - - VII - - - THE RED RIVER OF THE NORTH - - - But, in the ancient woods the Indian old, - Unequal to the chase, - Sighs as he thinks of all the paths untold, - No longer trodden by his fleeting race, - And, westward, on far-stretching prairies damp, - The savage shout, and mighty bison tramp - Roll thunder with the lifting mists of morn. - MAIR. - - - -In September 1738 a party of French explorers left Fort Maurepas, near -the mouth of the Winnipeg River, and, skirting the lower end of Lake -Winnipeg in their canoes, reached the delta of the Red River of the -North. Threading its labyrinthine channels, they finally emerged on the -main stream. The commander of this little band of pathfinders--first of -white men to see the waters of the Red River--was Pierre Gaultier de la -Vérendrye, one of the most dauntless and unselfish characters in the -whole history of exploration. Paddling up the river, La Vérendrye and -his men finally came to the mouth of the Assiniboine, or the Forks of -the Asiliboiles, as La Vérendrye calls it, where he met a party of Crees -with two war-chiefs. The chiefs tried to dissuade him from continuing -his journey toward the west, using the usual native arguments as to the -dangers of the way, and the treachery of other tribes; but La Vérendrye -had heard such arguments before, and was not to be turned from his -purpose by dangers, real or assumed. He had set his heart on the -discovery of the Western Sea, and as a means to that end was now on his -way to visit a strange tribe of Indians whose country lay toward the -south-west--the Mandans of the Missouri. Leaving one of his officers -behind to build a fort at the mouth of the Assiniboine, about where the -city of Winnipeg stands to-day, he continued his journey to the west. -Somewhere near the present town of Portage la Prairie, he and his men -built another small post, afterwards known as Fort La Reine. From this -outpost he set out in October, with a selected party of twenty men, for -an overland journey to the Mandan villages on the Missouri. Visiting a -village of Assiniboines on the way, La Vérendrye arrived on the banks of -the Missouri on the third of December. Knowing the value of an imposing -appearance, he made his approach to the Mandan village as spectacular as -possible. His men marched in military array, with the French flag borne -in front, and as the Mandans crowded out to meet him, the explorer -brought his little company to a stand, and had them fire a salute of -three volleys, with all the available muskets, to the unbounded -astonishment and no small terror of the Mandans, to whom both the white -men and their weapons were entirely unknown. After spending some time -with the Mandans, La Vérendrye returned to Fort La Reine, leaving two of -his men behind to learn the language, and pick up all the information -obtainable as to the unknown country that lay beyond, and the prospects -of reaching the Western Sea by way of the Missouri. The story of La -Vérendrye's later explorations, and his efforts to realise his life-long -ambition to reach the shores of the Western Sea, is full of interest, -but lies outside the present subject. - -Returning to the Red River of the North, and spanning the interval in -time to the close of the eighteenth century, we find another party of -white men making their way up its muddy waters. This "brigade" of -fur-traders, as it was called, was in charge of a famous Nor'-Wester -known as Alexander Henry, whose voluminous journals were resurrected -from the archives of the Library of Parliament at Ottawa some years ago. -Henry gives us an admirably full picture of the Red River country and -its human and other inhabitants, as they were in his day. One can see -the long string of heavily laden canoes as they forced their way slowly -up the current of the Red River, paddles dipping rhythmically to the -light-hearted chorus of some old Canadian _chanson_. At night the camp -is pitched on some comparatively high ground, fires are lighted, kettles -hung, and the evening meal despatched. Then the men gather about the -camp-fires, fill their pipes, and an hour is spent in song and story. -They turn in early, however, for the day's paddling has been long and -heavy, and they must be off again before daylight on the morrow. So the -story runs from day to day. - -They reach the mouth of the Assiniboine, and Henry notes the ruins of La -Vérendrye's old Fort Rouge. Old residents of Winnipeg will appreciate -his feeling references to the clinging character of the soil about the -mouth of the Assiniboine: "The last rain had turned it into a kind of -mortar that adheres to the foot like tar, so that at every step we raise -several pounds of it." - -These were the days when the buffalo roamed in vast herds throughout the -great western plains. One gets from Henry's narrative some idea of -their almost inconceivable numbers. As he ascended the Red River, the -country seemed alive with them. The "beach, once a soft black mud into -which a man would sink knee-deep, is now made hard as pavement by the -numerous herds coming to drink. The willows are entirely trampled and -torn to pieces; even the bark of the smaller trees is rubbed off in -places. The grass on the first bank of the river is entirely worn -away." As the brigade nears the point where the international boundary -crosses the Red River, an immense herd is seen, "commencing about half a -mile from the camp, whence the plain was covered on the west side of the -river as far as the eye could reach. They were moving southward slowly, -and the meadow seemed as if in motion." - -One further glimpse from Henry's Journal will serve to give some idea of -life on the banks of the Red River at the beginning of the last century. -Henry is describing the "bustle and noise which attended the -transportation of _five_ pieces of trading goods" from his own fort to -one of the branch establishments. - -"Antoine Payet, guide and second in command, leads the van, with a cart -drawn by two horses and loaded with his private baggage, cassettes, -bags, kettles, etc. Madame Payet follows the cart with a child a year -old on her back, very merry. Charles Bottineau, with two horses and a -cart loaded with one and a half packs, his own baggage, and two young -children, with kettles and other trash hanging on to it. Madame -Bottineau, with a squalling infant on her back, scolding and tossing it -about. Joseph Dubord goes on foot, with his long pipe-stem and calumet -in his hand; Madame Dubord follows on foot, carrying his tobacco-pouch -with a broad bead-tail. Antoine La Pointe, with another cart and -horses, loaded with two pieces of goods and with baggage belonging to -Brisebois, Jasmin and Pouliot, and a kettle hung on each side. Auguste -Brisebois follows with only his gun on his shoulder and a fresh-lighted -pipe in his mouth. Michel Jasmin goes next, like Brisebois, with gun -and pipe, puffing out clouds of smoke. Nicolas Pouliot, the greatest -smoker in the North-West, has nothing but pipe and pouch. These three -fellows, having taken a farewell dram and lighted fresh pipes, go on -brisk and merry, playing numerous pranks. Domin Livernois, with a young -mare, the property of Mr. Langlois, loaded with weeds for smoking, an -old worsted bag (madame's property), some squashes and potatoes, a small -keg of fresh water, and two young whelps howling. Next goes Livernois' -young horse, drawing a _travaille_ loaded with his baggage and a large -worsted _mashguemcate_ belonging to Madame Langlois. Next appears -Madame Cameron's mare, kicking, rearing, and snorting, hauling a -_travaille_ loaded with a bag of flour, cabbages, turnips, onions, a -small keg of water, and a large kettle of broth. Michel Langlois, who -is master of the band, now comes on leading a horse that draws a -_travaille_ nicely covered with a new-painted tent, under which his -daughter and Mrs. Cameron lie at full length, very sick; this covering -or canopy has a pretty effect in the caravan, and appears at a great -distance in the plains. Madame Langlois brings up the rear of the human -beings, following the _travaille_ with a slow step and melancholy air, -attending to the wants of her daughter, who, notwithstanding her -sickness, can find no other expressions of gratitude to her parents than -by calling them dogs, fools, beasts, etc. The rear guard consists of a -long train of twenty dogs--some for sleighs, some for game, and others -of no use whatever, except to snarl and destroy meat. The total forms a -procession nearly a mile long, and appears like a large band of -Assiniboines." - -To the uninitiated, it may be explained that a _cassette_ is a box for -carrying small articles; calumet is, of course, the Indian pipe; a -_travaille_ is a primitive species of conveyance, consisting of a couple -of long poles, one end fastened to a horse or dog, as the case may be, -and the other trailing on the ground. Cross-bars lashed midway hold the -poles together, and serve as a foundation for whatever load, human or -otherwise, it is intended to carry. _Mashguemcate_ is a species of bag, -a general receptacle for odds and ends. - - - - - VIII - - - THE MIGHTY MACKENZIE - - - I love thee, O thou great, wild, rugged land - Of fenceless field and snowy mountain height, - Uprearing crests all starry-diademed - Above the silver clouds. - LAUT. - - - -There was a man in the western fur-trade who felt that other things were -better worth while than the bartering of blankets and beads for -beaver-skins. His heart responded to the compelling cry of the unknown, -and one bright June day, in the year 1789, he set forth in quest of -other worlds. The man was Alexander Mackenzie, and the worlds he sought -to conquer were those of the far north. There was said to be a mighty -river whose waters no white man had ever yet seen, whose source and -outlet could only be guessed at, from the vague reports of Indians, -whose banks were said to be infested with bloodthirsty tribes, and whose -course was broken by so many and dangerous cataracts that no traveller -might hope to navigate its waters and live. - -Mackenzie, chafing at the dreary monotony of the fur-trader's life, -listened eagerly to all such tales. He knew enough of Indian character -to make due allowances for exaggerations; but had all that he heard been -true, the prospect of danger would only have whetted his appetite for -exploration. From his post, Fort Chipewyan, on Lake Athabasca, the way -lay clear, and he launched his canoe, manned by four Canadian -_voyageurs_, while his Indian interpreters and hunters followed in a -second. To Great Slave Lake they were on familiar waters, but beyond -all was conjecture. - -To appreciate the magnitude of Mackenzie's undertaking, one must bear in -mind that his object was to trace the mighty river that afterward bore -his name to its mouth. He had no certain knowledge where it might -empty--perhaps into the Arctic, possibly into the Pacific. In any case -it involved a long journey, with all sorts of possible difficulties, -human and natural; and as he must travel light, with only a limited -supply of provisions, it was essential that he should go and return in -one season--the very short season of these far northern latitudes. The -natives whom he questioned ridiculed the idea of descending the -Mackenzie to its outlet and returning the same season. They assured him -that it would take him the entire season to go down; that winter would -overtake him before he could begin the return journey; and that he would -certainly perish of cold or starvation, even if he escaped the hostile -tribes of the lower waters of the river. - -Mackenzie was confident that the journey could be made in the season, -but to succeed they must travel at top speed. He had picked men with -him, and it was fortunate that he had, for the pace was almost killing. -Half-past three in the morning generally saw them in the canoes and off -for a long day's hard paddling. One day they paddled steadily from -half-past two in the morning until six in the evening, except short -stops for meals, covering seventy-two miles in spite of a head wind. - -When they reached Great Slave Lake, they found it almost entirely -covered with ice, though it was now the ninth of June. Coming down Slave -River they had been tortured with mosquitoes and gnats, and the trees -along the banks were in full leaf. This violent change was -characteristic of the north. Five precious days were lost waiting for -the ice to move, so that they might cross the lake. At last a westerly -wind opened a passage, and after some perilous adventures they made the -northern shore. Coasting slowly to the westward, about the end of the -month they rounded the point of a long island, and Mackenzie found -himself on the great river. The current increased as they travelled -down stream, and it was possible to make good progress. - -On they went, day after day. July 1st they passed the mouth of what the -Indians called the River of the Mountain, afterward known as the Liard, -where Fort Simpson was built many years later. As they proceeded, it -became clear to Mackenzie that the river down which he was paddling must -empty into the Arctic--but would it be possible to reach the ocean and -return to Fort Chipewyan that season? The men were beginning to get -discouraged, and it required all Mackenzie's enthusiasm and strength of -purpose to keep them to the strenuous task. The tribes they met as they -went north--Slaves and Dog-ribs and Hare Indians--did not prove as -ferocious as they had been represented, but they one and all described -the dangers of the river below as stupendous. The _voyageurs_ grumbled, -but did not openly rebel. As for the Indians of Mackenzie's party, they -were in open terror; expected at every turn of the river to come upon -some of the fearful monsters of which the Slaves or Dog-ribs had warned -them, and were only kept from deserting by Mackenzie's overmastering -will. As they approached the mouth of the river, another terror was -added--fear of meeting the Eskimos, for Indian and Eskimo were at deadly -enmity. Altogether, the plucky explorer had troubles enough. - -On the second of July he came within sight of the Rocky Mountains, whose -glistening summits the Indians called _Manetoe aseniah_, or -spirit-stones, and the following day he camped at the foot of a -remarkable hill, constantly referred to in the narratives of Sir John -Franklin, Richardson, and other later explorers, as the "Rock by the -River Side." There is an admirable drawing of the rock, by Kendall, in -the narrative of Franklin's second voyage. - -A few days later Mackenzie passed the mouth of Bear River, draining that -huge reservoir, Great Bear Lake, whose discovery remained for later -explorers to accomplish, and about one hundred and twenty-five miles -below he came to the Sans Sault Rapids--the fearful waterfall against -which the natives had warned him. As a matter of fact it can be safely -navigated at almost any season of the year. - -Another thirty miles brought the explorer to the afterward famous -Ramparts of the Mackenzie. Here the banks suddenly contract to a width -of five hundred yards, and for several miles the travellers passed -through a gigantic tunnel, whose walls of limestone rose majestically on -either side to a height of from one hundred and twenty-five to two -hundred and fifty feet. - -At last they reached the delta of the river, and it was well that they -were so near their destination, for the Indians were thoroughly -demoralised and the _voyageurs_ dispirited, provisions were running -perilously low, and the short northern summer was rapidly drawing to its -close. On July 12th the party emerged from the river into what seemed -to Mackenzie to be a lake, but which was really the mouth of the river. -The following day confirmation of this came with the rising tide, which -very nearly carried off the men's baggage while they slept. Paddling -over to an island, which he named Whale Island, to commemorate an -exciting chase after a school of these enormous animals the previous -day, Mackenzie erected a post, on which he engraved the latitude of the -spot, his own name, the number of persons he had with him in the -expedition, and the time spent on the island. - -After a fruitless attempt to get in touch with the Eskimo, Mackenzie -turned his face to the south, and, after a comparatively uneventful -journey, arrived at Fort Chipewyan on September 12th, after a voyage of -one hundred and two days. He had explored one of the greatest rivers of -America, from Great Slave Lake to the Arctic, and he had added to the -known world a territory greater than Europe. Nor was this all, for -Mackenzie's journey to the Arctic was but the introduction to his even -more difficult, and more momentous, expedition of three years later, -over the mountains to the shores of the Pacific. This, however, does not -lie within the compass of the present sketch. - - - - - BOYLE, SON AND WATCHURST - PRINTERS, - 3-5 WARWICK SQUARE, E.C. - - - - - - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BY CANADIAN STREAMS *** - - - - -A Word from Project Gutenberg - - -We will update this book if we find any errors. - -This book can be found under: http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/38933 - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no one -owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and -you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without permission -and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, set forth in the -General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to copying and -distributing Project Gutenberg(tm) electronic works to protect the -Project Gutenberg(tm) concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a -registered trademark, and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, -unless you receive specific permission. 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