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author: nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> 2025-03-03 05:39:30 -0800
committer: nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org> 2025-03-03 05:39:30 -0800
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+<title>BY CANADIAN STREAMS</title>
+<meta name="PG.Rights" content="Public Domain" />
+<meta name="PG.Title" content="By Canadian Streams" />
+<meta name="PG.Producer" content="Al Haines" />
+<link rel="coverpage" href="images/img-cover.jpg" />
+<meta name="DC.Creator" content="Lawrence J. Burpee" />
+<meta name="DC.Created" content="1909" />
+<meta name="PG.Id" content="38933" />
+<meta name="PG.Released" content="2012-07-02" />
+<meta name="DC.Language" content="en" />
+<meta name="DC.Title" content="By Canadian Streams" />
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+</head>
+<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 38933 ***</div>
+<div class="document" id="by-canadian-streams">
+<h1 class="document-title level-1 pfirst title">BY CANADIAN STREAMS</h1>
+<div class="noindent vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="noindent pfirst" id="pg-produced-by"><span>Produced by Al Haines.</span></p>
+<div class="noindent vspace" style="height: 1em">
+</div>
+<p class="noindent pfirst"><span></span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="align-None container coverpage">
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em">
+</div>
+<div class="align-center auto-scaled figure" style="width: 58%" id="figure-6">
+<span id="cover"></span><img class="align-center" style="display: block; width: 100%" alt=" " src="images/img-cover.jpg" />
+<div class="caption figure">
+Cover</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<div class="align-None center container titlepage white-space-pre-line">
+<p class="pfirst white-space-pre-line x-large">BY CANADIAN STREAMS</p>
+<div class="vspace white-space-pre-line" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="medium pfirst white-space-pre-line">BY</p>
+<p class="large pnext white-space-pre-line">LAWRENCE J. BURPEE</p>
+<div class="vspace white-space-pre-line" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="center medium pfirst white-space-pre-line">TORONTO<br />
+THE MUSSON BOOK COMPANY LIMITED</p>
+<div class="vspace white-space-pre-line" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="align-None center container verso white-space-pre-line">
+<p class="center pfirst small white-space-pre-line"><em class="italics white-space-pre-line">Entered at</em><br />
+<em class="italics white-space-pre-line">Stationers Hall</em><br />
+1909</p>
+</div>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst">THE RIVERS OF CANADA</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<!-- class: left medium -->
+<p class="pfirst">Who that has travelled upon their
+far-spreading waters has not felt the
+compelling charm of the rivers of Canada?
+The matchless variety of their scenery, from
+the gentle grace of the Sissibou to the
+tempestuous grandeur of the Fraser; the
+romance that clings to their shores--legends
+and tales of Micmac and Iroquois, Cree,
+Blackfoot, and Chilcotin; stories of peaceful
+Acadian villages beside the Gaspereau, and
+fortified towns along the St. Lawrence; of
+warlike expeditions and missionary
+enterprises up the Richelieu and the Saguenay;
+of heroic exploits at the Long Sault and at
+Verchères; of memorable explorations in
+the north and the far west?  How many of
+us realise the illimitable possibilities of these
+arteries of a nation, their vital importance
+as avenues of commerce and communication,
+the potential energy stored in their rushing
+waters?  Do we even appreciate their actual
+extent, or thoroughly grasp the fact that
+this network of waterways covers half a
+continent, and reaches every corner of this
+vast Dominion?</p>
+<p class="pnext">Two hundred years ago little was known
+of these rivers outside the valley of the
+St. Lawrence.  One hundred years later
+scores of new waterways had been explored
+from source to outlet, some of them
+ranking among the great rivers of the
+earth.  The Western Sea, that had lured
+the restless sons of New France toward the
+setting sun, that had furnished a
+dominating impulse to her explorers, from Jacques
+Cartier to La Vérendrye, was at last reached
+by Canadians of another race--and the road
+that they travelled was the water-road that
+connects three oceans.  In their frail canoes
+these tireless pathfinders journeyed up the
+mighty St. Lawrence and its great tributary
+the Ottawa, through Lake Nipissing, and
+down the French river to Georgian Bay;
+they skirted the shores of the inland seas to
+the head of Lake Superior, and by way of
+numberless portages crossed the almost
+indistinguishable height of land to Rainy Lake
+and the beautiful Lake of the Woods.  They
+descended the wild Winnipeg to Lake
+Winnipeg, paddled up the Saskatchewan to
+Cumberland House, turned north by way of
+Frog Portage to the Churchill, and ascended
+that waterway to its source, where they
+climbed over Meythe Portage--famous in
+the annals of exploration and the fur trade--to
+the Clearwater, a branch of the Athabaska,
+and so came to Fort Chipewyan, on Lake
+Athabaska.  Descending Slave River for a
+few miles, they came to the mouth of Peace
+River, and after many days' weary paddling
+were in sight of the Rocky Mountains.  Still
+ascending the same river, they traversed the
+mountains, and by other streams were borne
+down the western slope to the shores of the
+remote Pacific.</p>
+<p class="pnext">The world offers no parallel to this
+extraordinary water-road from the Atlantic to the
+Pacific; nor is the tale all told.  From that
+great central reservoir, that master-key to
+the whole system of water communications,
+the traveller might turn his canoe in any
+direction, and traverse the length and
+breadth of the continent to its most remote
+boundaries: east to the Atlantic, west to
+the Pacific, north to the Arctic or to
+Hudson Bay, and south to the Gulf of
+Mexico.</p>
+<p class="pnext">The story of Canadian rivers would fill
+several volumes if one attempted to do
+justice to such a broad and varied theme.
+One may only hope, in the few pages that
+follow, to give glimpses of the story; to
+suggest, however inadequately, the dramatic
+and romantic possibilities of the subject; to
+recall a few of the memories that cling to the
+rivers of Canada.</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst">CONTENTS</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<ol class="left medium upperroman simple">
+<li><p class="first pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-great-river-of-canada">The Great River of Canada</a></p>
+</li>
+<li><p class="first pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-mystic-saguenay">The Mystic Saguenay</a></p>
+</li>
+<li><p class="first pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-river-of-acadia">The River of Acadia</a></p>
+</li>
+<li><p class="first pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-war-path-of-the-iroquois">The War Path of the Iroquois</a></p>
+</li>
+<li><p class="first pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-river-of-the-cataract">The River of the Cataract</a></p>
+</li>
+<li><p class="first pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-highway-of-the-fur-trade">The Highway of the Fur Trade</a></p>
+</li>
+<li><p class="first pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-red-river-of-the-north">The Red River of the North</a></p>
+</li>
+<li><p class="first pfirst"><a class="reference internal" href="#the-mighty-mackenzie">The Mighty Mackenzie</a></p>
+</li>
+</ol>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst" id="the-great-river-of-canada">By Canadian Streams</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 3em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst">I</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst">THE GREAT RIVER OF CANADA</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<!--  -->
+<blockquote>
+<div>
+<div class="line-block outermost">
+<div class="line">He told them of the river whose mighty current gave</div>
+<div class="line">Its freshness for a hundred leagues to ocean's briny wave;</div>
+<div class="line">He told them of the glorious scene presented to his sight,</div>
+<div class="line">What time he reared the cross and crown on Hochelaga's height,</div>
+<div class="line">And of the fortress cliff that keeps of Canada the key,</div>
+<div class="line">And they welcomed back Jacques Cartier from his perils over sea.</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">McGEE.</div>
+<div class="line"> </div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</blockquote>
+<p class="pfirst">If we abandon ourselves to pure
+conjecture, we may carry the history of
+the St. Lawrence back to the beginning of
+the sixteenth century, when daring
+Portuguese navigators sailed into these northern
+latitudes; or to the latter half of the fifteenth
+century, when the Basque fishermen are said
+to have brought their adventurous little
+craft into the Gulf of St. Lawrence; or, if
+you please, we may push the curtain back
+to the tenth century and add another
+variant to the many theories as to the course
+of the Northmen from Labrador to Nova
+Scotia.  But while this would make a
+romantic story, it is not history.  The Vikings
+of Northern Europe, and the Portuguese
+and Basques of Southern Europe, <em class="italics">may</em> have
+sailed the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and <em class="italics">may</em>
+even have entered the estuary of the great
+river, but there is no evidence that they did,
+and we must surrender these picturesque
+myths if we are to build our story upon a
+tangible foundation.</p>
+<p class="pnext">With the advent of Jacques Cartier, the
+bluff and fearless mariner of St. Malo, we
+are upon the solid ground of history.  There
+is nothing vague or uncertain about either
+the personality or achievements of this
+Breton captain.  He tells his own story, in
+simple and convincing language.  It does
+not require any peculiar gift of imagination
+to picture the scene that marks the
+beginnings of the history of the St. Lawrence.
+It was upon an autumn day, some three
+hundred and seventy-four years since.
+Jacques Cartier, with his little fleet, had
+searched up and down the coasts of the gulf
+for the elusive and much-desired passage to
+the South Seas, but the passage was not
+there.  His Indian guides, Taignoagny and
+Domagaya, had told him something of the
+mighty stream--the Great River of Canada--upon
+whose waters his ships were even
+now sailing.  How almost incredible it must
+have seemed to him that this vast channel,
+twenty-five miles across from shore to shore,
+could be a river, and nothing more!  What
+thoughts must have surged through his brain
+that here at last was the long-sought passage,
+the road to golden Cathay!  Even when, as
+he sailed onward, it became certain that this
+was indeed a river, although a gigantic one,
+Jacques Cartier still had reason enough to
+follow its beckoning finger.  The Indians
+said that to explore its upper waters he
+must take to his boats; but they told him
+of three several native kingdoms that lay
+along its banks, and they assured him
+that its source was so remote that no man
+had ever journeyed so far.  Moreover, it
+came from the south-west, and there lay,
+and at no impossible distance, as report had
+it, the Vermilion Sea.  He might well hope
+to reach that sea by way of the River of
+Canada.  In any event, he determined to try.</p>
+<p class="pnext">A week later the ships were anchored off
+an island, which Cartier named the Isle of
+Bacchus, because of the abundance of grapes
+found upon its shores.  Before him rose the
+forest-clad heights of Cape Diamond,
+destined to become the key to a Colonial empire,
+the battling-ground of three great nations,
+the site of the most picturesque and most
+romantic city of America.  Even at this
+time the place was of some importance, for
+here stood the native town of Stadacona, the
+seat of Donnacona, "Lord of Canada."</p>
+<p class="pnext">While the ships rode at anchor, Donnacona
+came down the river with twelve canoes and
+a number of his people.  His welcoming
+harangue astonished Cartier, as much by its
+inordinate length as by the extraordinary
+animation with which it was delivered.
+The explorer wasted no time, however, in
+ceremonies.  The season was drawing on,
+and much remained to be accomplished.
+Finding safe quarters for two of his vessels
+in the St. Charles River he continued his
+voyage in the third, in spite of the
+opposition of Donnacona and his people, who with
+true native jealousy would have prevented
+his further progress.  The ship had to be
+left behind at the mouth of the Richelieu,
+but with two boats, manned by some of
+his sailors, Cartier pushed on to the third
+native kingdom, Hochelaga, which he
+reached about the beginning of October.
+His reception here was embarrassing in its
+enthusiasm, for the people of Hochelaga
+testified their faith in the godlike character
+of their visitor by bringing the sick and the
+maimed to him to be healed by his touch.</p>
+<p class="pnext">Climbing the mountain behind the Indian
+town--which still bears the name he then
+gave it of Mont Royal--Cartier eagerly
+scanned the country to the westward.  He
+could trace the St. Lawrence on one side,
+and on the other saw for the first time its
+great tributary the Ottawa.  The way was
+still open, but rapids barred the further
+progress of his boats.  It was too late to do
+anything more this season, and, taking leave
+of the friendly people of Hochelaga, he
+returned down the river to Stadacona, where
+in his absence his men had built a substantial
+fort for the winter.  With all their
+preparations, however, a wretched winter was
+passed.  The Indians, at first friendly,
+became distrustful under the treacherous
+influence of Domagaya and Taignoagny, and
+kept Cartier and his men constantly on guard
+against a possible attack.  Added to this, the
+little garrison had to endure the horrors of
+scurvy.  When in the following May Cartier
+made ready to sail back to France, he found
+it necessary to abandon one of his ships and
+distribute the men between the other two
+vessels.  As some satisfaction for the
+annoyance he had suffered at the hands of the
+Indians, Cartier succeeded in carrying away
+to France not only the troublesome Taignoagny
+and several of his companions, but
+also the chief, Donnacona.</p>
+<p class="pnext">Cartier sailed for Canada once more in
+1541, but only fragmentary accounts are
+available of this voyage.  The honest captain
+of St. Malo never succeeded in finding the
+Vermilion Sea, but he had accomplished
+what was of more importance to future
+generations--the discovery and exploration
+of the noblest of Canadian rivers.  No one
+who came after him could add anything
+material to this momentous achievement.</p>
+<p class="pnext">For more than half a century after
+Cartier's final return to France, the
+St. Lawrence was practically abandoned to its
+native tribes.  In 1608, however, another
+famous son of Old France sailed up the
+St. Lawrence and landed with his men at
+the foot of the same towering rock upon
+which the Indian town of Stadacona had
+formerly stood.  Nothing now remained of
+Donnacona's capital, or of the tribe that
+once occupied the district.  The Iroquois,
+who in Cartier's day dwelt along the
+borders of the St. Lawrence from Stadacona
+to Hochelaga, had for some unaccountable
+reason abandoned this part of the country,
+and were now settled between Lake
+Champlain and Lake Ontario.  Champlain and
+those who came after him were to find a
+very different welcome from the descendants
+of the Indians who had welcomed Jacques
+Cartier to Stadacona and Hochelaga.</p>
+<p class="pnext">Somewhere near the market-place of the
+Lower Town, Champlain's men fell to work
+to lay the foundations of Quebec.  One may
+get some idea of the appearance of the group
+of buildings, Champlain's <em class="italics">Abitation</em>, from
+his own rough sketch in the <em class="italics">Voyages</em>.  "My
+first care," he says, "was to build a house
+within which to store our provisions.  This
+was promptly and competently done through
+the activity of my men, and under my own
+supervision.  Near by is the St. Croix River,
+where of yore Cartier spent a winter.  While
+carpenters toiled and other mechanics were
+at work on the house, the others were busy
+making a clearance about our future abode;
+for as the land seemed fertile, I was anxious
+to plant a garden and determine whether
+wheat and other cereals could not be grown
+to advantage."</p>
+<p class="pnext">All Champlain's men were not, however,
+so innocently engaged.  There was a traitor
+in the camp.  The story is told by Champlain
+himself, and by the historian Lescarbot.  It has
+been re-told, in his characteristically simple
+and graphic manner, by Francis Parkman.</p>
+<p class="pnext">"Champlain was one morning directing
+his labourers when Têtu, his pilot,
+approached him with an anxious countenance,
+and muttered a request to speak with him
+in private.  Champlain assenting, they
+withdrew to the neighbouring woods, when the
+pilot disburdened himself of his secret.  One
+Antoine Natel, a locksmith, smitten by
+conscience or fear, had revealed to him a
+conspiracy to murder his commander and
+deliver Quebec into the hands of the Basques
+and Spaniards then at Tadoussac.  Another
+locksmith, named Duval, was author of
+the plot, and, with the aid of three
+accomplices, had befooled or frightened nearly all
+the company into taking part in it.  Each
+was assured that he should make his fortune,
+and all were mutually pledged to poniard
+the first betrayer of the secret.  The critical
+point of their enterprise was the killing of
+Champlain.  Some were for strangling him,
+some for raising a false alarm in the night
+and shooting him as he came out from his
+quarters.</p>
+<p class="pnext">"Having heard the pilot's story, Champlain,
+remaining in the woods, desired his
+informant to find Antoine Natel, and bring
+him to the spot.  Natel soon appeared,
+trembling with excitement and fear, and a
+close examination left no doubt of the truth
+of his statement.  A small vessel, built by
+Pont-Gravé at Tadoussac, had lately arrived,
+and orders were now given that it should
+anchor close at hand.  On board was a
+young man in whom confidence could be
+placed.  Champlain sent him two bottles of
+wine, with a direction to tell the four
+ringleaders that they had been given him by his
+Basque friends at Tadoussac, and to invite
+them to share the good cheer.  They came
+aboard in the evening, and were seized and
+secured.  'Voyla donc mes galants bien
+estonnez,' writes Champlain.</p>
+<p class="pnext">"It was ten o'clock, and most of the men
+on shore were asleep.  They were wakened
+suddenly, and told of the discovery of the
+plot and the arrest of the ringleaders.
+Pardon was then promised them, and they
+were dismissed again to their beds, greatly
+relieved, for they had lived in trepidation,
+each fearing the other.  Duval's body,
+swinging from a gibbet, gave wholesome
+warning to those he had seduced; and his
+head was displayed on a pike, from the
+highest roof of the buildings, food for birds,
+and a lesson to sedition.  His three
+accomplices were carried by Pont-Gravé to France,
+where they made their atonement in the
+galleys."</p>
+<p class="pnext">Of Champlain's later history, his
+expedition against the Iroquois, by way of the
+Richelieu River and the lake to which he
+gave his name, and his exploration of the
+Ottawa, something will be said in later
+chapters.</p>
+<p class="pnext">The next great event in the history of
+New France, after the founding of Quebec
+by Champlain, was the coming of the Jesuit
+missionaries; but though their headquarters
+were at Quebec, the field of their heroic
+labours was for the most part in what now
+constitute the Province of Ontario and the
+State of New York.  Their story does not
+therefore touch directly upon the St. Lawrence,
+except in so far as that river was
+their road to and from the Iroquois towns
+and the country of the Hurons.  Indeed,
+by the middle of the seventeenth century,
+the St. Lawrence had become the main
+thoroughfare of New France.  A fort had
+been built at the mouth of the Richelieu, a
+small trading settlement existed at Three
+Rivers, and Maisonneuve had laid the
+foundations of Montreal.  Between Quebec
+and these new centres of population there
+was more or less intercourse, and the river
+bore up and down the vessels of fur-trader
+and merchant, priest and soldier.  The
+St. Lawrence was the highway of commerce,
+the path of the missionary, the road of war,
+and the one and only means of communication
+for the scattered colonists.  Up stream
+came warlike expeditions against the troublesome
+Iroquois; and down stream came the
+Iroquois themselves, with increasing
+insolence, until they finally carried their raids
+down to the very walls of Quebec.  The
+St. Lawrence was not safe travelling in those
+days, for white men or red.</p>
+<p class="pnext">During one of these forays, the Iroquois
+had captured two settlers, one Godefroy and
+François Marguerie, an interpreter, both of
+Three Rivers.  When some months later
+the war party returned to attack Three
+Rivers, they brought the Frenchmen with
+them, and sent Marguerie to the commander
+of the fort with disgraceful terms.
+Marguerie urged his people to reject the offer,
+and then, keeping his pledged word even to
+savages, returned to face almost certain
+torture.  Fortunately, reinforcements arrived
+from Quebec in the nick of time, and the
+Iroquois, finding themselves at a disadvantage,
+consented to the ransom of their prisoners.</p>
+<p class="pnext">In this same year, 1641, a little fleet which
+had set forth from Rochelle some weeks
+before dropped anchor at Quebec, and from
+the ships landed Paul de Chomedey, Sieur
+de Maisonneuve, with a party of enthusiasts
+destined to found a religious settlement on
+the island of Montreal.  They were coldly
+received by the Governor and people of
+Quebec, who were too weak themselves to
+care to see the tide of population diverted
+to a new settlement far up the river.
+Maisonneuve, however, turned a deaf ear to
+all their arguments.  "I have not come
+here," he said, "to deliberate, but to act.
+It is my duty and my honour to found a
+colony at Montreal; and I would go, if
+every tree were an Iroquois!"</p>
+<p class="pnext">In May of the following year the expedition
+set forth for Montreal.  With Maisonneuve
+went two women, whose names were
+to be closely associated with the early history
+of Montreal--Jeanne Mance and Madame
+de la Peltrie.  The Governor, Montmagny,
+making a virtue of necessity, also
+accompanied the expedition.  A more willing
+companion was Father Vimont, Superior of
+the missions.</p>
+<p class="pnext">It was the seventeenth of the month when
+the odd little flotilla--a pinnace, a
+flat-bottomed craft driven by sails, and a couple
+of row-boats--approached their destination.
+The following day they landed at what was
+afterwards known as Point Callière.  The
+scene is best described in the words of
+Parkman:</p>
+<p class="pnext">"Maisonneuve sprang ashore, and fell on
+his knees.  His followers imitated his
+example; and all joined their voices in
+enthusiastic songs of thanksgiving.  Tents,
+baggage, arms, and stores were landed.  An altar
+was raised on a pleasant spot near at hand;
+and Mademoiselle Mance, with Madame de
+la Peltrie, aided by her servant, Charlotte
+Barré, decorated it with a taste which was
+the admiration of the beholders.  Now all
+the company gathered before the shrine.
+Here stood Vimont, in the rich vestments
+of his office.  Here were the two ladies with
+their servant; Montmagny, no very willing
+spectator; and Maisonneuve, a warlike
+figure, erect and tall, his men clustering
+around him--soldiers, sailors, artisans, and
+labourers--all alike soldiers at need.  They
+kneeled in reverent silence as the Host was
+raised aloft; and when the rite was over,
+the priest turned and addressed them:
+'You are a grain of mustard-seed, that shall
+rise and grow till its branches overshadow
+the earth.  You are few, but your work is
+the work of God.  His smile is on you, and
+your children shall fill the land.'</p>
+<p class="pnext">"The afternoon waned; the sun sank
+behind the western forest, and twilight came
+on.  Fireflies were twinkling over the
+darkened meadow.  They caught them, tied
+them with threads into shining festoons,
+and hung them before the altar, where the
+Host remained exposed.  Then they pitched
+their tents, lighted their bivouac fires,
+stationed their guards, and lay down to rest.
+Such was the birth-night of Montreal."</p>
+<p class="pnext">Farther down the St. Lawrence, near the
+mouth of the Richelieu, stood the fortified
+home of the Seigneur de la Verchères.  This
+little fort was from its position peculiarly
+exposed to the attacks of the Iroquois.  Yet
+men must live, whatever the risks might be.
+Urgent business called the Seigneur to
+Quebec.  Perhaps nothing had been seen or
+heard of the dreaded scourge in the
+neighbourhood for some time.  At any rate,
+whether from a sense of fancied security, or
+from necessity which must sometimes ignore
+danger, most of the men were working in
+the fields, at some distance from the fort.
+Suddenly there was a cry, "The Iroquois!"  Madeleine,
+the fourteen-year-old daughter
+of the Seigneur, was at the gate.  She called
+in some women who were near at hand, and
+barred the entrance.  Two soldiers were in
+the fort, but they were paralysed with fear.
+Madeleine took charge, shamed the soldiers
+into at least a semblance of manhood, set
+every one to work to repair the defences, and
+set up dummies upon the walls to deceive
+the Indians into the belief that the fort was
+well garrisoned.  She armed her two young
+brothers, twelve and ten years of age, and
+an old man of eighty, and carried out the
+deception by a ceaseless patrol throughout
+the night.</p>
+<p class="pnext">Meanwhile the men in the fields had
+escaped, and were on their way to Montreal
+for assistance.  But Montreal was far off in
+those days, and the relief was slow in coming.
+The next day, and the next, Madeleine, by
+her own heroic will, kept up the spirits of
+her little garrison, and they made such good
+use of their guns that the Iroquois dared
+not come to close quarters.  When day
+followed day without the appearance of
+the hoped-for succour, the plucky girl had
+to struggle with desperate energy to
+maintain the defence.  She herself took no rest,
+but went from place to place, cheering the
+flagging spirits of her brothers, and foiling
+the enemy at every turn.  At last, when a
+full week had gone by, the relief party
+arrived from Montreal, and at their
+appearance the Iroquois hastily withdrew.  The
+men had expected to find the fort in ruins;
+they were agreeably surprised to find all
+safe; but their amazement knew no bounds
+when the gate was opened and they
+discovered what manner of garrison it was
+that had held at bay for a week a strong
+party of the ferocious Iroquois.</p>
+<p class="pnext">One might fill many pages with such
+stories as these, for the early history of the
+Great River of Canada, and of the settlements
+that grew up along its banks, is packed
+with romantic incidents and dramatic
+situations.  These must, however, be left to
+other hands if we are to find space for the
+stories of other Canadian streams.</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst" id="the-mystic-saguenay">II</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst">THE MYSTIC SAGUENAY</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<!--  -->
+<blockquote>
+<div>
+<div class="line-block outermost">
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">Pile on pile</div>
+</div>
+<div class="line">The granite masses rise to left and right;</div>
+<div class="line">Bald, stately bluffs that never wear a smile....</div>
+<div class="line">And we must pass a thousand bluffs like these,</div>
+</div>
+<div class="line">Within whose breasts are locked a myriad mysteries.</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">SANGSTER.</div>
+<div class="line"> </div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</blockquote>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="pfirst">The Saguenay is first heard of in the
+narrative of Cartier's second voyage.
+On his way to Canada, the realm of the
+Iroquois sachem, Donnacona, he came, early
+in September 1535, to the mouth of a great
+river flowing into the St. Lawrence from the
+west.  His native guides told him that this
+river, whose gloomy majesty was to be the
+theme of many later travellers, was the main
+road to the "kingdom of Saguenay."  One
+may well believe that the adventurous
+captain of St. Malo would gladly have turned
+his ships between the towering portals of
+the Saguenay, for the pure joy of discovery,
+had not a greater project lured him toward
+the south-west.</p>
+<p class="pnext">While his vessels were anchored off the
+mouth of the river, his attention was drawn
+to a curious fish "which no man had ever
+before seen or heard of."  The Indians called
+them adhothuys, and told him that they
+were found only in such places as this, where
+the waters of sea and river mingled.  Cartier
+says they were as large as porpoises, had the
+head and body of a greyhound, and were as
+white as snow and without a spot.  These
+white porpoises, as they are now called,
+are still found at the mouth of the
+Saguenay.  At one time their capture
+formed an important part of the fisheries
+of Tadoussac.</p>
+<p class="pnext">There is a romantic tradition that de
+Roberval sailed up the Saguenay with a
+company of adventurers, about the year
+1549, in search of a kingdom of fabulous
+riches, and that he and his men perished on
+the way.  It is probable, however, that the
+expedition had as little foundation as the
+kingdom it was designed to exploit.</p>
+<p class="pnext">Half a century later the first settlement
+was made at Tadoussac, at the mouth of
+the Saguenay.  For many years this had
+been a meeting-place for the Basque traders
+and the Indians from the interior, but it
+was not until the year 1600 that anything
+in the nature of a permanent post had been
+established.  In that year Pierre de Chauvin,
+Pont-Gravé, and de Monts, sailed for the
+St. Lawrence, built a house at Tadoussac,
+and left sixteen men there for the winter
+to carry on the fur-trade.  The venture was
+not a success, and the place was abandoned
+the following year, but Tadoussac remained
+for many years an important point in the
+fur-trade.  It is said that in 1648 the traffic
+amounted to 250,000 livres.  A church built
+here by the missionaries a hundred years later
+is still standing.  Tadoussac is chiefly known
+to-day as one of the favourite watering-places
+on the Lower St. Lawrence.</p>
+<p class="pnext">It was not until three years after de
+Chauvin built his trading-post at Tadoussac
+that the Saguenay was actually explored.
+Champlain and Pont-Gravé had sailed from
+Honfleur, in March 1603, on the <em class="italics">Bonne-Renommée</em>,
+to explore the country and find
+some more suitable place than Tadoussac
+for a permanent settlement.  After meeting
+a number of friendly Indians at Tadoussac,
+Champlain determined to explore the
+Saguenay, and actually sailed up to the head
+of navigation, a little above the present town
+of Chicoutimi.  By shrewd questions he
+learned from the Indians that above the
+rapids the river was navigable for some
+distance, that it was again broken by rapids
+at its outlet from a big lake (Lake St. John),
+that three rivers fell into this lake, and that
+beyond these rivers were strange tribes who
+lived on the borders of the sea.  This sea
+was the great bay, as yet undiscovered,
+where Henry Hudson was seven years later
+to win an imperishable name, and die a
+victim to the treachery of his crew.</p>
+<p class="pnext">In 1608 Champlain again visited Tadoussac,
+on his way up the St. Lawrence to lay
+the foundations of Quebec.  His companion,
+Pont-Gravé, had arrived in another vessel
+a few days before, armed with the King's
+commission granting him a monopoly of the
+fur-trade for one year.  When he reached
+Tadoussac he found the enterprising Basques
+already on the ground, and carrying on a
+brisk trade with the Indians.  They treated
+the royal letters with contempt, ridiculed
+Pont-Gravé's monopoly, and, finally boarding
+his ship, carried off his guns and ammunition.
+The opportune arrival of Champlain,
+however, brought them to terms, and they finally
+agreed to return to their legitimate occupation
+of catching whales, leaving the fur-trade,
+for a time at least, to Pont-Gravé and
+Champlain.</p>
+<p class="pnext">The Indians who chiefly frequented
+Tadoussac at this time were of the tribe called
+Montagnais.  Their hunting-ground was the
+country drained by the Saguenay, and they
+acted as middlemen for the tribes of the far
+north, bringing their furs down to the
+French at Tadoussac, and carrying back
+the prized trinkets of the white man, which
+they no doubt bartered to their northerly
+neighbours at an exorbitant profit.</p>
+<p class="pnext">"Indefatigable canoe-men," says Parkman,
+"in their birchen vessels, light as egg-shells,
+they threaded the devious tracks of countless
+rippling streams, shady by-ways of the
+forest, where the wild duck scarcely finds
+depth to swim; then descended to their
+mart along those scenes of picturesque yet
+dreary grandeur which steam has made
+familiar to modern tourists.  With slowly
+moving paddles, they glided beneath the
+cliff whose shaggy brows frown across the
+zenith, and whose base the deep waves wash
+with a hoarse and hollow cadence; and they
+passed the sepulchral Bay of the Trinity,
+dark as the tide of Acheron,--a sanctuary of
+solitude and silence: depths which, as the
+fable runs, no sounding-line can fathom, and
+heights at whose dizzy verge the wheeling
+eagle seems a speck."</p>
+<p class="pnext">Fifty-eight years after Champlain's voyage
+up the Saguenay, two Jesuit missionaries,
+Claude Dablon and Gabriel Druillettes, set
+forth from Tadoussac with a large party of
+Indians in forty canoes.  Their object was
+to meet the northern Indians at Lake
+Nekouba, near the height of land, and if
+possible push on to Hudson Bay.  It is clear
+from their narrative that French traders or
+missionaries had already ascended the
+Saguenay as far as Lake St. John, but beyond that
+Dablon and Druillettes entered upon a
+country which was hitherto unknown to the
+French.  After suffering great hardships, the
+party at last arrived at Lake Nekouba, where
+they found a large gathering of Indians,
+representing many of the surrounding tribes.
+But while the missionaries were addressing
+the Indians, word came that a war party of
+Mohawks had penetrated even to these
+remote fastnesses.  So overpowering was the
+dread which these redoubtable warriors had
+inspired among all the tribes of North-eastern
+America, that the gathering broke
+up in confusion.  Every man made off to
+his own home, hoping that he might not
+meet an Iroquois at the portage; and as the
+Indians of Father Dablon's party were as
+fear-stricken as the rest, all idea of
+continuing the journey to Hudson Bay had
+to be abandoned, and the missionaries
+were obliged to retrace their steps to
+Tadoussac.</p>
+<p class="pnext">A decade later, another missionary, Father
+Albanel, with a Colonial officer, Denys de
+Saint Simon, were more fortunate.  Following
+Dablon's route to the height of land,
+they pushed on to Lake Mistassini, and
+descended Rupert's River to Hudson Bay,
+where they found a small vessel flying the
+English flag, and two houses, but the English
+themselves were apparently away on some
+trading expedition.</p>
+<p class="pnext">The Jesuit missionaries seemed to have
+discovered at an early date the advantages
+of Lake St. John as the site of one of their
+missions.  In 1808 the ruins of their
+settlement were still visible on the south side of
+the lake.  James McKenzie, of the North-West
+Company, who visited the "King's
+Posts" in that year, says that "the plum
+and apple trees of their garden, grown wild
+through want of care, yet bear fruit in
+abundance.  The foundation of their church
+and other buildings, as well as the churchyard,
+are still visible.  The bell of their
+church, two iron spades, a horseshoe, a
+scythe and a bar of iron two feet in length,
+have lately been dug out of the ruins of this
+apparently once flourishing spot, and,
+adjoining, is an extensive plain or meadow on
+which much timothy hay grows."  Elsewhere
+Mr. McKenzie mentions that the
+Fathers had mills on Lake St. John, some of
+the materials used in their construction
+having been found there by officers of the
+North-West Company.  He adds that an
+island in the lake, not far from where the
+mission formerly stood, swarms with snakes,
+which a local tradition credited to the power
+of the worthy Jesuits.  The Fathers found
+them inconveniently numerous about their
+settlement, and conjured them on to the
+island.</p>
+<p class="pnext">A settlement of some kind was made at
+Chicoutimi, on the Saguenay, early in the
+eighteenth century.  A chapel and store,
+still standing in 1808, bore an inscription
+that they had been built in 1707.  Father
+Coquart records that in 1750 there was a
+saw-mill on the River Oupaouétiche, one
+and a half leagues above Chicoutimi, which
+worked two saws night and day.</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst" id="the-river-of-acadia">III</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst">THE RIVER OF ACADIA</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<!--  -->
+<blockquote>
+<div>
+<div class="line-block outermost">
+<div class="line">Along my fathers' dykes I roam again,</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">Among the willows by the river-side.</div>
+<div class="line">These miles of green I know from hill to tide,</div>
+</div>
+<div class="line">And every creek and river's ruddy stain.</div>
+<div class="line">Neglected long and shunned, our dead have lain.</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">Here, where a people's dearest hope has died,</div>
+<div class="line">Alone of all their children scattered wide,</div>
+</div>
+<div class="line">I scan the sad memorials that remain.</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">HERBIN.</div>
+<div class="line"> </div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</blockquote>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="pfirst">Some time about the middle of the
+seventeenth century, an Acadian,
+sailing perhaps from Port Royal in search of
+peltries or of mere adventure, brought his
+little vessel by great good luck safely through
+that treacherous channel, guarded at one
+end by Cape Split and at the other by the
+frowning crest of Blomidon, and found
+himself upon the placid waters of the Basin of
+Minas.  Champlain had sailed across the
+mouth of the basin in 1604, and had called
+it the Port des Mines, because of certain
+copper-mines which he had been led to
+expect there.  This Acadian found
+something better than copper-mines.  Safely past
+Blomidon, he came to a land which nature
+seemed to have set apart as the home of an
+industrious and peace-loving people.
+Somewhere about the mouth of the Gaspereau he
+built his home.  Others followed, and in
+time a long, straggling village grew up;
+willows were planted, which stand to-day
+as a memorial of this Acadian colony; and
+after years of toil they completed that still
+more impressive monument of Acadian
+industry, the "long ramparts of their dykes,"
+by which they fenced out the sea from the
+rich and fertile lowlands, and turned these
+once tide-swept flats into green meadows.</p>
+<p class="pnext">The Gaspereau country must have been
+beautiful enough when the Acadians first
+came to make their home there, but in the
+years of their occupation they gave to the
+landscape, quite unconsciously no doubt,
+certain subtle touches that turned it into
+something little less than an earthly paradise.
+Standing upon the ridge and looking down
+into the valley of the Gaspereau, one sees a
+scene that it not very materially changed
+from the days of the Acadians--after one
+has eliminated such modern excrescences as
+railways and bridges.  The village of Grand
+Pré would have to be rearranged, no doubt.
+There was less of it in the first half of the
+eighteenth century; it did not cover quite
+the same ground; but no doubt a traveller
+who came that way in 1750 would have
+seen in the vale beneath many such picturesque
+cottages embowered in the self-same
+trees, and the rest of the scene would have
+been much the same as he would see to-day.
+Charles Roberts, the Canadian poet, novelist,
+and historian, has made a word-picture of
+it.  "The picture is an exquisite pastoral.
+Among such deep fields, such billowy groves,
+and such embosomed farmsteads might
+Theocritus have wrought his idylls to the
+hum of the heavy bees.  Along the bottom
+of the sun-brimmed vale sparkles the river,
+between its banks of wild rose and
+convolvulus, with here and there a clump of
+grey-green willows, here and there a
+red-and-white bridge.  As it nears its mouth the
+Gaspereau changes its aspect.  Its
+complexion of clear amber grows yellow and
+opaque as it mixes with the uprushing tides
+of Minas, and its widened channel winds
+through a riband of dyked marshes."</p>
+<p class="pnext">This is the valley of the Gaspereau, one
+of the most beautiful spots in the beautiful
+province of Nova Scotia.  This, too, in that
+far-off autumn of 1755, was the scene of
+one of the most pathetic and tragic incidents
+in the history of America.  It would serve
+no useful purpose to discuss that much-debated
+question of the whys and wherefores
+of the expulsion of the Acadians.  The
+story of the actual tragedy is all we have
+space for here.  That story is alone sufficient
+to make the Gaspereau famous among rivers
+of Canada, and it is best told in the language
+of Francis Parkman.  Governor Lawrence
+had summoned the deputies of the Acadian
+settlements to appear before him at Halifax,
+to take the oath of allegiance and fidelity.
+They came, but flatly refused to take the
+oath.  The Governor and Council
+thereupon decided that the only thing that
+remained to be done was to deport them
+from the colony.  John Winslow, a Colonial
+officer from Massachusetts, was charged with
+the duty of securing the inhabitants about
+the Basin of Minas.  On August 14, 1755,
+he set forth from his camp at Fort Beausejour,
+with a force of but two hundred and
+ninety-seven men.  He sailed down
+Chignecto Channel to the Bay of Fundy.  "Here,
+while they waited the turn of the tide to
+enter the Basin of Minas," says Parkman,
+"the shores of Cumberland lay before them
+dim in the hot and hazy air, and the
+promontory of Cape Split, like some misshapen
+monster of primeval chaos, stretched its
+portentous length along the glimmering sea,
+with head of yawning rock, and ridgy back
+bristled with forests.  Borne on the rushing
+flood, they soon drifted through the inlet,
+glided under the rival promontory of Cape
+Blomidon, passed the red sandstone cliffs
+of Lyon's Cove, and descried the mouths
+of the Rivers Canard and Des Habitants,
+where fertile marshes, diked against the
+tide, sustained a numerous and thriving
+population.  Before them spread the
+boundless meadows of Grand Pré, waving with
+harvests, or alive with grazing cattle; the
+green slopes behind were dotted with the
+simple dwellings of the Acadian farmers,
+and the spire of the village church rose
+against a background of woody hills.  It
+was a peaceful, rural scene, soon to
+become one of the most wretched spots on
+earth."</p>
+<p class="pnext">After conferring with his brother officer,
+Murray, who was encamped with his men
+on the banks of the Pisiquid, where the town
+of Windsor now stands, Winslow returned
+to Grand Pré.  The Acadian elders were
+told to remove all sacred things from the
+village church, and the building was then
+used as a storehouse.  The men pitched
+their tents outside, while Winslow took
+possession of the priest's house.  A summons
+was sent to the male inhabitants of the
+district, over ten years of age, to attend at
+the church in Grand Pré, on the fifth of
+September, at three of the clock in the
+afternoon, "that we may impart what we are
+ordered to communicate to them; declaring
+that no excuse will be admitted on any
+pretence whatsoever, on pain of forfeiting
+goods and chattels in default."</p>
+<p class="pnext">"On the next day," continues Parkman,
+"the inhabitants appeared at the hour
+appointed, to the number of four hundred
+and eighteen men.  Winslow ordered a table
+to be set in the middle of the church, and
+placed on it his instructions and the address
+he had prepared."  It ran partly as follows:
+"The duty I am now upon, though necessary,
+is very disagreeable to my natural make
+and temper, as I know it must be grievous
+to you, who are of the same species.  But
+it is not my business to animadvert on the
+orders I have received, but to obey them;
+and therefore without hesitation I shall
+deliver to you His Majesty's instructions
+and commands, which are that your lands
+and tenements and cattle and live-stock of
+all kinds are forfeited to the Crown, with all
+your other effects, except money and
+household goods, and that you yourselves are to
+be removed from this his province.  The
+peremptory orders of His Majesty are that
+all the French inhabitants of these districts
+be removed; and through His Majesty's
+goodness I am directed to allow you the
+liberty of carrying with you your money
+and as many of your household goods as
+you can take without overloading the vessels
+you go in.  I shall do everything in my
+power that all these goods be secured to
+you, and that you be not molested in carrying
+them away, and also that whole families shall
+go in the same vessel; so that this removal,
+which I am sensible must give you a great
+deal of trouble, may be made as easy as
+His Majesty's service will admit; and I
+hope that in whatever part of the world
+your lot may fall, you may be faithful
+subjects, and a peaceable and happy people."</p>
+<p class="pnext">After weary weeks of delay, which tried
+Winslow's patience to the utmost, the
+transports at last arrived at the mouth of the
+Gaspereau, and the work of embarkation
+began.  Up to the very last the Acadians
+could not believe that the order of deportation
+was serious, and when they finally
+realised their fate and knew that they must
+bid farewell for ever to their homes--the
+homes of their fathers, the land that they
+loved so well--their grief was indescribable.
+"Began to embark the inhabitants," says
+Winslow in his Diary, "who went off very
+solentarily and unwillingly, the women in
+great distress, carrying off their children in
+their arms; others carrying their decrepit
+parents in their carts, with all their goods;
+moving in great confusion, and appeared a
+scene of woe and distress."  It was late in
+December before the last transport left the
+mouth of the Gaspereau.  Altogether more
+than twenty-one hundred Acadians were
+exiled from Grand Pré and the country
+round about.  They were distributed along
+the Atlantic coast, from Massachusetts to
+Georgia.  Some made their way to
+Louisiana; some escaped and reached Canada.
+"Some," says Parkman, "after incredible
+hardship, made their way back to Acadia,
+where, after the peace, they remained
+unmolested, and, with those who had escaped
+seizure, became the progenitors of the
+present Acadians, now settled in various
+parts of the British maritime provinces."  Few
+of them, however, returned at any time
+to Grand Pré, and that once thriving settlement
+remained desolate for several years,
+until at last British families straggled in and
+took up the waste lands of the unfortunate
+Acadians.</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst" id="the-war-path-of-the-iroquois">IV</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst">THE WAR-PATH OF THE IROQUOIS</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="pfirst">The story of the Richelieu River is a
+story of war and conflict.  It opens
+just three hundred years ago, when Champlain
+set out from Quebec to join a war-party
+of Algonquins and Hurons, who had
+determined to seek the Iroquois in their own
+country, and had begged him to aid in the
+expedition.  In consenting to do so,
+Champlain no doubt felt that he had good and
+sufficient reasons, but if he could have
+foreseen the consequences of his act he would
+surely have left the Algonquins and Iroquois
+to settle their difficulties in their own way,
+for from this first act of aggression dates the
+implacable hatred of the Iroquois for the
+French, and a century and more of ferocious
+raids into every corner of the struggling
+colony.</p>
+<p class="pnext">Champlain, with his little party of French
+and a horde of naked savages, reached the
+mouth of the Richelieu, or the River of the
+Iroquois as it was then called, about the
+end of June 1609.  The Indians quarrelled
+among themselves, and three-fourths of their
+number deserted and made off for home.
+The rest continued their course up the
+waters of the Richelieu.  When they reached
+the rapids, above the Basin of Chambly, it
+was found impossible to take the shallop in
+which the French had travelled any farther.
+Sending most of his men back to Quebec,
+he himself, with two companions, determined
+to see the adventure through.  After many
+days' hard paddling, the flotilla of canoes
+swept out on to the bosom of the noble lake
+which perpetuates the name of Champlain,
+and in the evening of the twenty-ninth of
+July they discovered the Iroquois in their
+canoes, near the point of land where Fort
+Ticonderoga was long afterwards built.  The
+Iroquois made for the shore, and as night
+was falling it was mutually agreed to defer
+the battle until the following morning.  The
+Iroquois threw up a barricade, while Champlain
+and his native allies spent the night
+in their canoes on the lake.</p>
+<p class="pnext">In the morning Champlain and his two
+men put on light armour, and the whole
+party landed at some distance from the
+Iroquois.  "I saw the enemy go out of
+their barricade," says Champlain, "nearly
+two hundred in number, stout and rugged
+in appearance.  They came at a slow pace
+towards us, with a dignity and assurance
+which greatly amused me, having three
+chiefs at their head.  Our men also advanced
+in the same order, telling me that those
+who had three large plumes were the chiefs,
+and that I should do what I could to kill
+them.  I promised to do all in my power.</p>
+<p class="pnext">"As soon as we had landed, they began
+to run for some two hundred paces towards
+their enemies, who stood firmly, not having
+as yet noticed my companions, who went
+into the woods with some savages.  Our
+men began to call me with loud cries; and
+in order to give me a passage-way, they
+opened in two parts, and put me at their
+head, where I marched some twenty paces
+in advance of the rest, until I was within
+about thirty paces of the enemy, who at
+once noticed me, and, halting, gazed at me,
+as I did also at them.  When I saw them
+making a move to fire at us, I rested my
+musket against my cheek, and aimed directly
+at one of the three chiefs.  With the same
+shot two fell to the ground, and one of their
+men was so wounded that he died some time
+after.  I had loaded my musket with four
+balls.  When our side saw this shot so
+favourable for them, they began to raise
+such loud cries that one could not have
+heard it thunder.  Meanwhile, the arrows
+flew on both sides.  The Iroquois were
+greatly astonished that two men had been
+so quickly killed, although they were equipped
+with armour woven from cotton thread,
+and with wood which was proof against
+their arrows.  This caused great alarm
+among them.  As I was loading again, one
+of my companions fired a shot from the
+woods, which astonished them anew to such
+a degree that, seeing their chiefs dead, they
+lost courage, and took to flight, abandoning
+their camp and fort, and fleeing into the
+woods, whither I pursued them, killing still
+more of them.  Our savages also killed
+several, and took ten or twelve prisoners.
+The remainder escaped with the wounded.</p>
+<p class="pnext">"After gaining the victory, our men
+amused themselves by taking a great
+quantity of Indian corn and some meal from
+their enemies, also their armour, which they
+had left behind that they might run better.
+After feasting sumptuously, dancing and
+singing, we returned three hours after,
+with the prisoners."</p>
+<p class="pnext">On the return journey, the Algonquins
+tied one of the prisoners to a stake, and
+tortured him with such refinement of cruelty
+as to arouse the disgust and resentment of
+Champlain.  Finally, they allowed him to
+put the wretched Iroquois out of his misery
+with a musket-ball.  Arrived at the rapids,
+the Algonquins and Hurons returned to
+their own country, with loud protestations
+of friendship for Champlain, while the latter
+continued his journey down to Quebec.</p>
+<p class="pnext">If anything remained to heap the cup of
+Iroquois resentment to the brim, it was
+provided the following year, when Champlain
+again lent his assistance to the Algonquins
+and Hurons, and, encountering a war-party
+of Iroquois, a hundred strong, near
+the mouth of the Richelieu, killed or
+captured every one of them.  The day was to
+come when the tables would be turned with
+a vengeance, when the war-cry of the
+Iroquois would be heard under the walls
+of Montreal and Quebec, and the death of
+each of the hundred warriors avenged a
+hundredfold.</p>
+<p class="pnext">But the sanguinary story of the Richelieu
+is not limited to Indian wars, or the conflict
+between Indian and French.  In later years
+it was to become the road of war between
+white and white, between New England and
+New France, and again between the revolted
+colonists of New England and the loyal
+colonists of Canada.  On the very spot where
+Champlain and his Algonquins had defeated
+the Iroquois, one hundred and fifty years
+later another conflict took place, curiously
+similar in some respects, though different
+enough in others.  Again one side fought
+behind a barricade, while the other gallantly
+rushed to the assault, and again the defeat
+was overwhelming; but there the resemblance
+ends.  Behind the impregnable breastwork
+at Ticonderoga stood Montcalm with
+his three or four thousand French; without
+stood Abercrombie, with fifteen thousand
+British regulars and Colonial militia.
+Abercrombie's one and only idea was to carry the
+position by assault, and throughout the long
+day he hurled regiment after regiment up
+the deadly slope, only to see them mown
+down by hundreds and thousands before the
+breastwork.  Champlain's victory was one
+of civilisation over savagery; Montcalm's
+was one of skill over stupidity.</p>
+<p class="pnext">Seventeen years after the battle of
+Ticonderoga, the Richelieu once more became the
+road of war.  Down its historic waters came
+Montgomery, with his three thousand
+Americans, to capture Montreal and to be
+driven back from the walls of Quebec.
+Among all the singular circumstances that
+led up to and accompanied this disastrous
+attempt to relieve Canadians of the British
+yoke, none was more remarkable, or more
+significant, than the fact that the bulk of
+the plucky little army with which Guy
+Carleton successfully defended England's
+northern colony consisted of
+French-Canadians--the same down-trodden
+French-Canadians on whose behalf Congress had
+sent an army to drive the British into the
+sea.  As for the Richelieu, having served for
+the better part of two centuries as the
+pathway of savage and civilised war, its
+energies were at length turned into channels
+of peaceful commerce.</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst" id="the-river-of-the-cataract">V</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst">THE RIVER OF THE CATARACT</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<!--  -->
+<blockquote>
+<div>
+<div class="line-block outermost">
+<div class="line">That dread abyss!  What mortal tongue may tell</div>
+<div class="line">The seething horrors of its watery hell!</div>
+<div class="line">Where, pent in craggy walls that gird the deep,</div>
+<div class="line">Imprisoned tempests howl, and madly sweep</div>
+<div class="line">The tortured floods, drifting from side to side</div>
+<div class="line">In furious vortices.</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">KIRBY.</div>
+<div class="line"> </div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</blockquote>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="pfirst">Father Louis Hennepin, in his
+<em class="italics">New Discovery of a Vast Country in
+America</em>, gives the earliest known description
+of the river and falls of Niagara.  "Betwixt
+the Lake Ontario and Erie," he says, "there
+is a vast and prodigious Cadence of Water
+which falls down after a surprising and
+astonishing manner, insomuch that the Universe
+does not afford its Parallel.  'Tis true,
+Italy and Suedeland boast of some such
+Things; but we may as well say they are
+but sorry Patterns, when compar'd to this
+of which we now speak.  At the foot of this
+horrible Precipice, we meet with the River
+Niagara, which is not above half a quarter
+of a League broad, but is wonderfully deep
+in some places.  It is so rapid above this
+Descent that it violently hurries down the
+wild Beasts while endeavouring to pass it to
+feed on the other side, they not being able
+to withstand the force of its Current, which
+inevitably casts them down headlong above
+Six hundred foot.  This wonderful Downfall
+is compounded of two great Cross-streams
+of Water, and two Falls, with an Isle sloping
+along the middle of it.  The Waters which
+Fall from this vast height, do foam and boil
+after the most hideous manner imaginable,
+making an outrageous Noise, more terrible
+than that of Thunder; for when the Wind
+blows from off the South, their dismal roaring
+may be heard above fifteen Leagues off.  The
+River Niagara having thrown itself down
+this incredible Precipice, continues its
+impetuous course for two Leagues together, to
+the great Rock, with an inexpressible Rapidity:
+But having passed that, its Impetuosity
+relents, gliding along more gently for two
+Leagues, till it arrives at the Lake Ontario,
+or Frontenac."</p>
+<p class="pnext">This same year, 1678, when Hennepin
+visited the great falls, La Salle, with his
+lieutenants Tonty and La Motte, were busy
+with preparations for their western explorations,
+and in these the Niagara River was
+to play an important part.  It was about
+the middle of November when La Motte,
+with Father Hennepin and sixteen men,
+sailed from Fort Frontenac (Kingston) in a
+little vessel of ten tons.  "The winds and
+the cold of the autumn," says Hennepin,
+"were then very violent, insomuch that our
+crew was afraid to go into so little a vessel.
+This oblig'd us to keep our course on the
+north side of the lake, to shelter ourselves
+under the coast against the north-west
+wind."  On the twenty-sixth they were in
+great danger, a couple of leagues off shore,
+where they were obliged to lie at anchor all
+night.  The wind coming round to the north-east,
+however, they managed to continue their
+voyage, and arrived safely at an Iroquois
+village called Tajajagon, where Toronto
+stands to-day.  They ran their little ship
+into the mouth of the Humber, where the
+Iroquois came to barter Indian corn, and
+gaze in open-mouthed wonder at the
+marvellous inventions of the white men.
+Contrary winds and trouble with the ice kept
+them there until the fifth of December, when
+they crossed the lake to the mouth of the
+Niagara.  "On the 6th, being St. Nicholas's
+Day," says Hennepin, "we got into the fine
+River Niagara, into which never any such
+Ship as ours enter'd before.  We sung there
+Te Deum, and other prayers, to return our
+thanks to Almighty God for our prosperous
+voyage."  After examining the river as far
+as Chippewa Creek, La Motte, Hennepin
+and the men set to work to build a cabin,
+surrounded by palisades, two leagues above
+the mouth of the river.  The ground was
+frozen, and hot water had to be used to
+thaw it out before the stakes could be driven
+in.  The Iroquois, who according to
+Hennepin had been very friendly on their arrival
+at the mouth of the river, presenting them
+with fish, imputing their good fortune in
+the fisheries to the white men, and examining
+with interest and astonishment the "great
+wooden canoe," grew sullen and suspicious
+when they saw the strangers building a
+fortified house on what they considered
+peculiarly their own territory.  La Motte
+and Hennepin went off to the great village
+of the Senecas, beyond the Genesee, to
+obtain their consent to the building of the
+fort, but without much success.  Soon after
+their departure, La Salle and Tonty reached
+the Seneca village, on their way from Fort
+Frontenac to the Niagara.  More persuasive,
+or more fortunate than his lieutenant, La
+Salle secured permission not only for the
+fortified post at the mouth of the river, but
+also for a much more important undertaking
+which he had planned, the building of a
+vessel at the upper end of the Niagara River,
+to be used in connection with his western
+explorations.</p>
+<p class="pnext">During the winter the necessary material
+for the <em class="italics">Griffin</em>, as the new vessel was to be
+called, was carried over the long portage to
+the mouth of Cayuga Creek, above the falls,
+where a dock was prepared and the keel laid.
+La Salle sent the master-carpenter to Hennepin
+to desire him to drive the first bolt, but,
+as he says, his profession obliged him to
+decline the honour.  La Salle returned to
+Fort Frontenac, leaving Tonty to finish the
+work.  The Iroquois, in spite of their
+agreement with La Salle, watched the
+building of the <em class="italics">Griffin</em> with jealous
+dissatisfaction, and kept the little band of
+Frenchmen in a state of constant anxiety.
+Fortunately, one of their expeditions against the
+neighbouring tribes took the majority of
+them off, and the work was pushed forward
+with redoubled zeal, so that it might be
+completed before their return.  The Indians
+that remained behind were too few to make
+an open attack, but they did their utmost
+to prevent the completion of the ship.  One
+of them, feigning drunkenness, attacked the
+blacksmith and tried to kill him, but was
+driven off with a red-hot bar.  Hennepin
+naïvely remarks that this, "together with
+the reprimand he received from me," obliged
+him to be gone.  A native woman warned
+Tonty that an attempt would be made to
+burn the vessel.  Failing in this, the Senecas
+tried to starve the French by refusing to
+sell them corn, and might have succeeded
+but for the efforts of two Mohegan hunters,
+who kept the workmen supplied with game
+from the surrounding forest.  Finally, the
+<em class="italics">Griffin</em> was launched, amid the shouts of the
+French and the yelpings of the Indians, who
+forgot their displeasure in the novel
+spectacle.  She was towed up the Niagara, and
+on the seventh of August, 1679, La Salle and
+his men sailed out over the placid waters of
+Lake Erie, the booming of his cannon
+announcing the approach of the first ship of
+the upper lakes.  In the <em class="italics">Griffin</em> La Salle sailed
+through Lakes Eric, St. Clair, and Huron, to
+Michilimackinac, and thence crossed Lake
+Michigan to the entrance to Green Bay,
+where some of his men, sent on ahead, had
+collected a quantity of valuable furs.  These
+he determined to send back to Canada, to
+satisfy the clamorous demands of his creditors,
+while he continued his voyage to the
+Mississippi.  The <em class="italics">Griffin</em> set sail for Niagara
+on the eighteenth of September.  She never
+reached her destination, and her fate has
+remained one of the mysteries of Canadian
+history.</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst" id="the-highway-of-the-fur-trade">VI</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst">THE HIGHWAY OF THE FUR TRADE</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<!--  -->
+<blockquote>
+<div>
+<div class="line-block outermost">
+<div class="line">Dear dark-brown waters, full of all the stain</div>
+<div class="line">Of sombre spruce-woods and the forest fens,</div>
+<div class="line">Laden with sound from far-off northern glens</div>
+<div class="line">Where winds and craggy cataracts complain,</div>
+<div class="line">Voices of streams and mountain pines astrain,</div>
+<div class="line">The pines that brood above the roaring foam</div>
+<div class="line">Of La Montague or Des Erables; thine home</div>
+<div class="line">Is distant yet, a shelter far to gain.</div>
+<div class="line">Aye, still to eastward, past the shadowy lake</div>
+<div class="line">And the long slopes of Rigaud toward the sun.</div>
+<div class="line">The mightier stream, thy comrade, waits for thee,</div>
+<div class="line">The beryl waters that espouse and take</div>
+<div class="line">Thine in their deep embrace, and bear thee on</div>
+<div class="line">In that great bridal journey to the sea.</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">LAMPMAN.</div>
+<div class="line"> </div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</blockquote>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="pfirst">While Champlain was in Paris, in
+1612, a young man, one Nicolas de
+Vignau, whom he had sent the previous year
+to visit the tribes of the Ottawa, reappeared,
+with a marvellous tale of what he had seen
+on his travels.  He had found a great lake,
+he said, and out of it a river flowing north,
+which he had descended and reached the
+shores of the sea, where he had seen the
+wreck of an English ship.  Seventeen days'
+travel by canoe, said Vignau, would bring
+one to the shores of his sea.  Champlain
+was delighted, and prepared immediately to
+follow up this important discovery.  He
+returned to Canada, and about the end of
+May 1613 set out from Montreal with
+Vignau and three companions.  The rest of
+the story is better told in Parkman's
+words--and Parkman is here at his very best.</p>
+<p class="pnext">"All day they plied their paddles, and
+when the night came they made their
+campfire in the forest.  Day dawned.  The east
+glowed with tranquil fire, that pierced, with
+eyes of flame, the fir-trees whose jagged tops
+stood drawn in black against the burning
+heaven.  Beneath the glossy river slept in
+shadow, or spread far and wide in sheets of
+burnished bronze; and the white moon,
+paling in the face of day, hung like a disk of
+silver in the western sky.  Now a fervid
+light touched the dead top of the hemlock,
+and, creeping downward, bathed the mossy
+beard of the patriarchal cedar, unstirred in
+the breathless air.  Now, a fiercer spark
+beamed from the east; and now, half risen
+on the sight, a dome of crimson fire, the sun
+blazed with floods of radiance across the
+awakened wilderness.</p>
+<p class="pnext">"The canoes were launched again, and
+the voyagers held their course.  Soon the
+still surface was flecked with spots of foam;
+islets of froth floated by, tokens of some great
+convulsion.  Then, on their left, the falling
+curtain of the Rideau shone like silver
+betwixt its bordering woods, and in front,
+white as a snow-drift, the cataracts of the
+Chaudière barred their way.  They saw the
+unbridled river careering down its sheeted
+rocks, foaming in unfathomed chasms,
+wearying the solitude with the hoarse outcry
+of its agony and rage."</p>
+<p class="pnext">While the Indians threw an offering into
+the foam as an offering to the Manitou of
+the cataract, Champlain and his men
+shouldered their canoes and climbed over the
+long portage to the quiet waters of the Lake
+of the Chaudière, now Lake Des Chênes.
+Past the Falls of the Chats and a long
+succession of rapids they made their way,
+until at last, discouraged by the difficulties
+of the river, they took to the woods,
+and made their way through them, tormented
+by mosquitoes, to the village of
+Tessouat, one of the principal chiefs of the
+Algonquins, who welcomed Champlain to
+his country.</p>
+<p class="pnext">Feasting, the smoking of ceremonial pipes,
+and a great deal of speech-making followed.
+Champlain asked for men and canoes to
+conduct him to the country of the Nipissings,
+through whom he hoped to reach the North
+Sea.  Tessouat and his elders looked
+dubious.  They had no love for the Nipissings,
+and preferred to keep Champlain among
+themselves.  Finally, at his urgent solicitation,
+they agreed, but as soon as he had
+left the lodge they changed their minds.
+Champlain returned and upbraided them as
+children who could not hold fast to their
+word.  They replied that they feared that
+he would be lost in the wild north country,
+and among the treacherous Nipissings.</p>
+<p class="pnext">"But," replied Champlain, "this young
+man, Vignau, has been to their country,
+and did not find the road or the people so
+bad as you have said."</p>
+<p class="pnext">"Nicholas," demanded Tessouat, "did
+you say that you had been to the Nipissings?"</p>
+<p class="pnext">"Yes," he replied, "I have been there,"</p>
+<p class="pnext">"You are a liar," returned the unceremonious
+host; "you know very well that
+you slept here among my children every
+night, and got up again every morning; and
+if you ever went to the Nipissings, it must
+have been when you were asleep.  How can
+you be so impudent as to lie to your chief,
+and so wicked as to risk his life among so
+many dangers?  He ought to kill you with
+tortures worse than those with which we
+kill our enemies."</p>
+<p class="pnext">Vignau held out stoutly for a time, but
+finally broke down and confessed his
+treachery.  This "most impudent liar," as
+Champlain calls him, seems to have had no
+more substantial motive for his outrageous
+fabrication than vanity and the love of
+notoriety.  Champlain spurned him from his
+presence, and in bitter disappointment
+retraced his steps to Montreal.</p>
+<p class="pnext">From the days of Champlain to the close
+of the period of French rule, and for many
+years thereafter, the Ottawa was known as
+the main thoroughfare from Montreal to
+the great west.  Up these waters generation
+after generation of fur-traders made their
+way, their canoes laden with goods, to be
+exchanged at remote posts on the Assiniboine,
+the Saskatchewan, or the Athabasca,
+for skins brought in by all the surrounding
+tribes.  Long before the first settler came
+to clear the forest and make a home for
+himself in the wilderness, these banks echoed
+to the shouts of French <em class="italics">voyageurs</em> and
+Indian canoe-men, and the gay songs of
+Old Canada.  Many a weary hour of paddling
+under a hot midsummer sun, and many a
+long and toilsome portage, were lightened
+by the rollicking chorus of "En roulant ma
+boule," or the tender refrain of "A la claire
+fontaine."  These inimitable folk-songs
+became in time a link between the old days of
+the fur-trade and the later period of the
+lumber traffic.  It is indeed not so many
+years ago that one might sit on the banks
+of the Ottawa, in the long summer evenings,
+and, as the mighty rafts of logs floated
+past, catch the familiar refrain, softened
+by distance:</p>
+<blockquote>
+<div>
+<div class="line-block outermost">
+<div class="line">Rouli, roulant, ma boule roulant,</div>
+<div class="line">En roulant ma boule roulant,</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">En roulant ma boule.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</blockquote>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst" id="the-red-river-of-the-north">VII</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst">THE RED RIVER OF THE NORTH</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<!--  -->
+<blockquote>
+<div>
+<div class="line-block outermost">
+<div class="line">But, in the ancient woods the Indian old,</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">Unequal to the chase,</div>
+</div>
+<div class="line">Sighs as he thinks of all the paths untold,</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">No longer trodden by his fleeting race,</div>
+</div>
+<div class="line">And, westward, on far-stretching prairies damp,</div>
+<div class="line">The savage shout, and mighty bison tramp</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">Roll thunder with the lifting mists of morn.</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">MAIR.</div>
+<div class="line"> </div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</blockquote>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="pfirst">In September 1738 a party of French
+explorers left Fort Maurepas, near the
+mouth of the Winnipeg River, and, skirting
+the lower end of Lake Winnipeg in their
+canoes, reached the delta of the Red River
+of the North.  Threading its labyrinthine
+channels, they finally emerged on the main
+stream.  The commander of this little band
+of pathfinders--first of white men to see the
+waters of the Red River--was Pierre Gaultier
+de la Vérendrye, one of the most dauntless
+and unselfish characters in the whole history
+of exploration.  Paddling up the river, La
+Vérendrye and his men finally came to the
+mouth of the Assiniboine, or the Forks of
+the Asiliboiles, as La Vérendrye calls it,
+where he met a party of Crees with two
+war-chiefs.  The chiefs tried to dissuade him
+from continuing his journey toward the
+west, using the usual native arguments as
+to the dangers of the way, and the treachery
+of other tribes; but La Vérendrye had
+heard such arguments before, and was not
+to be turned from his purpose by dangers,
+real or assumed.  He had set his heart on
+the discovery of the Western Sea, and as a
+means to that end was now on his way to
+visit a strange tribe of Indians whose country
+lay toward the south-west--the Mandans of
+the Missouri.  Leaving one of his officers
+behind to build a fort at the mouth of the
+Assiniboine, about where the city of Winnipeg
+stands to-day, he continued his journey
+to the west.  Somewhere near the present
+town of Portage la Prairie, he and his men
+built another small post, afterwards known
+as Fort La Reine.  From this outpost he
+set out in October, with a selected party of
+twenty men, for an overland journey to the
+Mandan villages on the Missouri.  Visiting
+a village of Assiniboines on the way, La
+Vérendrye arrived on the banks of the
+Missouri on the third of December.  Knowing
+the value of an imposing appearance, he
+made his approach to the Mandan village
+as spectacular as possible.  His men marched
+in military array, with the French flag borne
+in front, and as the Mandans crowded out
+to meet him, the explorer brought his little
+company to a stand, and had them fire a
+salute of three volleys, with all the available
+muskets, to the unbounded astonishment
+and no small terror of the Mandans, to
+whom both the white men and their weapons
+were entirely unknown.  After spending
+some time with the Mandans, La Vérendrye
+returned to Fort La Reine, leaving two of
+his men behind to learn the language, and
+pick up all the information obtainable as to
+the unknown country that lay beyond, and
+the prospects of reaching the Western Sea
+by way of the Missouri.  The story of La
+Vérendrye's later explorations, and his efforts
+to realise his life-long ambition to reach the
+shores of the Western Sea, is full of interest,
+but lies outside the present subject.</p>
+<p class="pnext">Returning to the Red River of the North,
+and spanning the interval in time to the
+close of the eighteenth century, we find
+another party of white men making their
+way up its muddy waters.  This "brigade"
+of fur-traders, as it was called, was in charge
+of a famous Nor'-Wester known as Alexander
+Henry, whose voluminous journals were
+resurrected from the archives of the Library
+of Parliament at Ottawa some years ago.
+Henry gives us an admirably full picture of
+the Red River country and its human and
+other inhabitants, as they were in his day.
+One can see the long string of heavily laden
+canoes as they forced their way slowly up
+the current of the Red River, paddles dipping
+rhythmically to the light-hearted chorus of
+some old Canadian <em class="italics">chanson</em>.  At night the
+camp is pitched on some comparatively high
+ground, fires are lighted, kettles hung, and
+the evening meal despatched.  Then the
+men gather about the camp-fires, fill their
+pipes, and an hour is spent in song and story.
+They turn in early, however, for the day's
+paddling has been long and heavy, and they
+must be off again before daylight on the
+morrow.  So the story runs from day to day.</p>
+<p class="pnext">They reach the mouth of the Assiniboine,
+and Henry notes the ruins of La Vérendrye's
+old Fort Rouge.  Old residents of Winnipeg
+will appreciate his feeling references to the
+clinging character of the soil about the
+mouth of the Assiniboine: "The last rain
+had turned it into a kind of mortar that
+adheres to the foot like tar, so that at every
+step we raise several pounds of it."</p>
+<p class="pnext">These were the days when the buffalo
+roamed in vast herds throughout the great
+western plains.  One gets from Henry's
+narrative some idea of their almost
+inconceivable numbers.  As he ascended the Red
+River, the country seemed alive with them.
+The "beach, once a soft black mud into
+which a man would sink knee-deep, is now
+made hard as pavement by the numerous
+herds coming to drink.  The willows are
+entirely trampled and torn to pieces; even
+the bark of the smaller trees is rubbed off in
+places.  The grass on the first bank of the
+river is entirely worn away."  As the brigade
+nears the point where the international
+boundary crosses the Red River, an immense
+herd is seen, "commencing about half a mile
+from the camp, whence the plain was covered
+on the west side of the river as far as the
+eye could reach.  They were moving southward
+slowly, and the meadow seemed as if
+in motion."</p>
+<p class="pnext">One further glimpse from Henry's Journal
+will serve to give some idea of life on the
+banks of the Red River at the beginning of
+the last century.  Henry is describing the
+"bustle and noise which attended the
+transportation of <em class="italics">five</em> pieces of trading goods"
+from his own fort to one of the branch
+establishments.</p>
+<p class="pnext">"Antoine Payet, guide and second in
+command, leads the van, with a cart drawn
+by two horses and loaded with his private
+baggage, cassettes, bags, kettles, etc.
+Madame Payet follows the cart with a child
+a year old on her back, very merry.  Charles
+Bottineau, with two horses and a cart loaded
+with one and a half packs, his own baggage,
+and two young children, with kettles and
+other trash hanging on to it.  Madame
+Bottineau, with a squalling infant on her
+back, scolding and tossing it about.  Joseph
+Dubord goes on foot, with his long pipe-stem
+and calumet in his hand; Madame Dubord
+follows on foot, carrying his tobacco-pouch
+with a broad bead-tail.  Antoine La Pointe,
+with another cart and horses, loaded with
+two pieces of goods and with baggage
+belonging to Brisebois, Jasmin and Pouliot,
+and a kettle hung on each side.  Auguste
+Brisebois follows with only his gun on his
+shoulder and a fresh-lighted pipe in his
+mouth.  Michel Jasmin goes next, like
+Brisebois, with gun and pipe, puffing out
+clouds of smoke.  Nicolas Pouliot, the
+greatest smoker in the North-West, has
+nothing but pipe and pouch.  These three
+fellows, having taken a farewell dram and
+lighted fresh pipes, go on brisk and merry,
+playing numerous pranks.  Domin Livernois,
+with a young mare, the property of
+Mr. Langlois, loaded with weeds for smoking,
+an old worsted bag (madame's property),
+some squashes and potatoes, a small keg of
+fresh water, and two young whelps howling.
+Next goes Livernois' young horse, drawing
+a <em class="italics">travaille</em> loaded with his baggage and a
+large worsted <em class="italics">mashguemcate</em> belonging to
+Madame Langlois.  Next appears Madame
+Cameron's mare, kicking, rearing, and snorting,
+hauling a <em class="italics">travaille</em> loaded with a bag of
+flour, cabbages, turnips, onions, a small keg
+of water, and a large kettle of broth.  Michel
+Langlois, who is master of the band, now
+comes on leading a horse that draws a
+<em class="italics">travaille</em> nicely covered with a new-painted
+tent, under which his daughter and
+Mrs. Cameron lie at full length, very sick; this
+covering or canopy has a pretty effect in
+the caravan, and appears at a great distance
+in the plains.  Madame Langlois brings up
+the rear of the human beings, following the
+<em class="italics">travaille</em> with a slow step and melancholy air,
+attending to the wants of her daughter,
+who, notwithstanding her sickness, can find
+no other expressions of gratitude to her
+parents than by calling them dogs, fools,
+beasts, etc.  The rear guard consists of a
+long train of twenty dogs--some for sleighs,
+some for game, and others of no use whatever,
+except to snarl and destroy meat.
+The total forms a procession nearly a
+mile long, and appears like a large band
+of Assiniboines."</p>
+<p class="pnext">To the uninitiated, it may be explained
+that a <em class="italics">cassette</em> is a box for carrying small
+articles; calumet is, of course, the Indian
+pipe; a <em class="italics">travaille</em> is a primitive species of
+conveyance, consisting of a couple of long
+poles, one end fastened to a horse or dog,
+as the case may be, and the other trailing
+on the ground.  Cross-bars lashed midway
+hold the poles together, and serve as a
+foundation for whatever load, human or
+otherwise, it is intended to carry.
+<em class="italics">Mashguemcate</em> is a species of bag, a general
+receptacle for odds and ends.</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst" id="the-mighty-mackenzie">VIII</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="center large pfirst">THE MIGHTY MACKENZIE</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<!--  -->
+<blockquote>
+<div>
+<div class="line-block outermost">
+<div class="line">I love thee, O thou great, wild, rugged land</div>
+<div class="line">Of fenceless field and snowy mountain height,</div>
+<div class="line">Uprearing crests all starry-diademed</div>
+<div class="line">Above the silver clouds.</div>
+<div class="inner line-block">
+<div class="line">LAUT.</div>
+<div class="line"> </div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</blockquote>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 2em">
+</div>
+<p class="pfirst">There was a man in the western
+fur-trade who felt that other things were
+better worth while than the bartering of
+blankets and beads for beaver-skins.  His
+heart responded to the compelling cry of
+the unknown, and one bright June day, in
+the year 1789, he set forth in quest of other
+worlds.  The man was Alexander Mackenzie,
+and the worlds he sought to conquer were
+those of the far north.  There was said to
+be a mighty river whose waters no white
+man had ever yet seen, whose source and
+outlet could only be guessed at, from the
+vague reports of Indians, whose banks were
+said to be infested with bloodthirsty tribes,
+and whose course was broken by so many and
+dangerous cataracts that no traveller might
+hope to navigate its waters and live.</p>
+<p class="pnext">Mackenzie, chafing at the dreary monotony
+of the fur-trader's life, listened eagerly
+to all such tales.  He knew enough of Indian
+character to make due allowances for
+exaggerations; but had all that he heard been
+true, the prospect of danger would only
+have whetted his appetite for exploration.
+From his post, Fort Chipewyan, on Lake
+Athabasca, the way lay clear, and he launched
+his canoe, manned by four Canadian
+<em class="italics">voyageurs</em>, while his Indian interpreters and
+hunters followed in a second.  To Great
+Slave Lake they were on familiar waters,
+but beyond all was conjecture.</p>
+<p class="pnext">To appreciate the magnitude of Mackenzie's
+undertaking, one must bear in mind
+that his object was to trace the mighty river
+that afterward bore his name to its mouth.
+He had no certain knowledge where it might
+empty--perhaps into the Arctic, possibly
+into the Pacific.  In any case it involved a
+long journey, with all sorts of possible
+difficulties, human and natural; and as he must
+travel light, with only a limited supply of
+provisions, it was essential that he should
+go and return in one season--the very short
+season of these far northern latitudes.  The
+natives whom he questioned ridiculed the
+idea of descending the Mackenzie to its
+outlet and returning the same season.  They
+assured him that it would take him the entire
+season to go down; that winter would
+overtake him before he could begin the
+return journey; and that he would certainly
+perish of cold or starvation, even if he
+escaped the hostile tribes of the lower waters
+of the river.</p>
+<p class="pnext">Mackenzie was confident that the journey
+could be made in the season, but to succeed
+they must travel at top speed.  He had
+picked men with him, and it was fortunate
+that he had, for the pace was almost killing.
+Half-past three in the morning generally
+saw them in the canoes and off for a long
+day's hard paddling.  One day they paddled
+steadily from half-past two in the morning
+until six in the evening, except short stops
+for meals, covering seventy-two miles in
+spite of a head wind.</p>
+<p class="pnext">When they reached Great Slave Lake,
+they found it almost entirely covered with
+ice, though it was now the ninth of June.
+Coming down Slave River they had been
+tortured with mosquitoes and gnats, and the
+trees along the banks were in full leaf.  This
+violent change was characteristic of the
+north.  Five precious days were lost waiting
+for the ice to move, so that they might cross
+the lake.  At last a westerly wind opened a
+passage, and after some perilous adventures
+they made the northern shore.  Coasting
+slowly to the westward, about the end of
+the month they rounded the point of a long
+island, and Mackenzie found himself on the
+great river.  The current increased as they
+travelled down stream, and it was possible
+to make good progress.</p>
+<p class="pnext">On they went, day after day.  July 1st
+they passed the mouth of what the Indians
+called the River of the Mountain, afterward
+known as the Liard, where Fort Simpson
+was built many years later.  As they
+proceeded, it became clear to Mackenzie that
+the river down which he was paddling must
+empty into the Arctic--but would it be
+possible to reach the ocean and return to
+Fort Chipewyan that season?  The men
+were beginning to get discouraged, and it
+required all Mackenzie's enthusiasm and
+strength of purpose to keep them to the
+strenuous task.  The tribes they met as they
+went north--Slaves and Dog-ribs and Hare
+Indians--did not prove as ferocious as they
+had been represented, but they one and all
+described the dangers of the river below
+as stupendous.  The <em class="italics">voyageurs</em> grumbled,
+but did not openly rebel.  As for the
+Indians of Mackenzie's party, they were in
+open terror; expected at every turn of the
+river to come upon some of the fearful
+monsters of which the Slaves or Dog-ribs
+had warned them, and were only kept from
+deserting by Mackenzie's overmastering will.
+As they approached the mouth of the river,
+another terror was added--fear of meeting
+the Eskimos, for Indian and Eskimo were at
+deadly enmity.  Altogether, the plucky
+explorer had troubles enough.</p>
+<p class="pnext">On the second of July he came within
+sight of the Rocky Mountains, whose
+glistening summits the Indians called <em class="italics">Manetoe
+aseniah</em>, or spirit-stones, and the following
+day he camped at the foot of a remarkable
+hill, constantly referred to in the narratives
+of Sir John Franklin, Richardson, and other
+later explorers, as the "Rock by the River
+Side."  There is an admirable drawing of
+the rock, by Kendall, in the narrative of
+Franklin's second voyage.</p>
+<p class="pnext">A few days later Mackenzie passed the
+mouth of Bear River, draining that huge
+reservoir, Great Bear Lake, whose discovery
+remained for later explorers to accomplish,
+and about one hundred and twenty-five
+miles below he came to the Sans Sault
+Rapids--the fearful waterfall against which
+the natives had warned him.  As a matter
+of fact it can be safely navigated at almost
+any season of the year.</p>
+<p class="pnext">Another thirty miles brought the explorer
+to the afterward famous Ramparts of the
+Mackenzie.  Here the banks suddenly
+contract to a width of five hundred yards, and
+for several miles the travellers passed through
+a gigantic tunnel, whose walls of limestone
+rose majestically on either side to a height
+of from one hundred and twenty-five to two
+hundred and fifty feet.</p>
+<p class="pnext">At last they reached the delta of the river,
+and it was well that they were so near their
+destination, for the Indians were thoroughly
+demoralised and the <em class="italics">voyageurs</em> dispirited,
+provisions were running perilously low, and
+the short northern summer was rapidly
+drawing to its close.  On July 12th the party
+emerged from the river into what seemed to
+Mackenzie to be a lake, but which was really
+the mouth of the river.  The following day
+confirmation of this came with the rising
+tide, which very nearly carried off the men's
+baggage while they slept.  Paddling over to
+an island, which he named Whale Island, to
+commemorate an exciting chase after a school
+of these enormous animals the previous day,
+Mackenzie erected a post, on which he
+engraved the latitude of the spot, his own
+name, the number of persons he had with
+him in the expedition, and the time spent
+on the island.</p>
+<p class="pnext">After a fruitless attempt to get in touch
+with the Eskimo, Mackenzie turned his face
+to the south, and, after a comparatively
+uneventful journey, arrived at Fort
+Chipewyan on September 12th, after a voyage
+of one hundred and two days.  He had
+explored one of the greatest rivers of
+America, from Great Slave Lake to the
+Arctic, and he had added to the known
+world a territory greater than Europe.
+Nor was this all, for Mackenzie's journey
+to the Arctic was but the introduction to
+his even more difficult, and more momentous,
+expedition of three years later, over the
+mountains to the shores of the Pacific.
+This, however, does not lie within the
+compass of the present sketch.</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 4em">
+</div>
+<p class="center pfirst small white-space-pre-line">BOYLE, SON AND WATCHURST<br />
+PRINTERS,<br />
+3-5 WARWICK SQUARE, E.C.</p>
+<div class="vspace" style="height: 6em">
+</div>
+<!-- -*- encoding: utf-8 -*- -->
+<div class="backmatter">
+</div>
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 38933 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
author	nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org>	2025-03-03 05:39:30 -0800
committer	nfenwick <nfenwick@pglaf.org>	2025-03-03 05:39:30 -0800
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tree	7e6b50e380f781415e16d000f6285008785f6ed1 /38933-h/38933-h.htm
parent	5019f043fe43dc9c0b91a3814084a04b78b2e3e0 (diff)