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diff --git a/38825.txt b/38825.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..11bf841 --- /dev/null +++ b/38825.txt @@ -0,0 +1,13918 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, by Mary King Waddington + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Letters of a Diplomat's Wife + 1883-1900 + +Author: Mary King Waddington + +Release Date: February 10, 2012 [EBook #38825] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE *** + + + + +Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Wayne Hammond and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + + [Illustration: Mary King Waddington] + + [Illustration: Signature: Mary King Waddington] + + + + + LETTERS OF A + DIPLOMAT'S WIFE + + 1883-1900 + + BY + MARY KING WADDINGTON + + ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS + AND PHOTOGRAPHS + + SMITH, ELDER & CO. + LONDON 1903 + + + + + Copyright, 1903, by Charles Scribner's Sons + for the United States of America + + Printed by the Trow Directory, Printing and Bookbinding Company + New York, U. S. A. + + + + + INTRODUCTORY NOTE + + BY THE COLLECTOR OF THE LETTERS + + +Mary Alsop King Waddington is a daughter of the late Charles King, +President of Columbia College in the City of New York from 1849 to 1864, +and a granddaughter of Rufus King, the second Minister sent to England +by the United States after the adoption of the Constitution. + +Miss King was educated in this country. In 1871, after the death of her +father, she went, with her mother and sisters, to live in France, and in +1874 became the wife of M. William Henry Waddington. + +M. Waddington was born in Normandy, France, in 1826. His grandfather was +an Englishman who had established cotton manufactories in France, and +had become a naturalised French citizen. The grandson, however, was +educated first in a Paris _lycee_, then at Rugby, and later at Trinity +College, Cambridge. As an under-graduate he rowed in the Cambridge boat +in the University race of 1849. Soon after leaving the University, M. +Waddington returned to France and entered public life. In 1871 he was +elected a representative from the Department of the Aisne to the +National Assembly, and two years afterward was appointed Minister of +Public Instruction in place of M. Jules Simon. In January, 1876, he was +elected a senator for the Department of the Aisne, and two months later +again became Minister of Public Instruction. In December, 1877, he +accepted the portfolio of Minister of Foreign Affairs. + +M. Waddington was the first plenipotentiary of France to the Congress of +Berlin in 1878. On February 4, 1879, he became President of the Council +(Premier), retiring the following December. In the winter of 1879-1880 +he refused the offer of the London Embassy. In May, 1883, he was sent as +Ambassador-Extraordinary to represent France at the coronation of the +Czar Alexander III at Moscow, and upon his return from Russia was +appointed Ambassador at the Court of St. James to succeed M. Tissot. He +held this post until 1893, and died in Paris in the following year. + +Mme. Waddington accompanied her husband on his missions to both England +and Russia. The letters collected in this volume were written during the +period of her husband's diplomatic service to describe to her sisters +the personages and incidents of her official life. About a fourth part +of their number have lately been published in _Scribner's Magazine_; +with this exception, the letters are now given to the public for the +first time. + + #Tompkins McIlvaine.# + + #New York#, April 1, 1903. + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + #Portrait of Madame Waddington# _Frontispiece_ + + FACING + PAGE + + #Colonel Benckendorff# 34 + _From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg._ + + #The Emperor Crowning the Empress. Church de + l'Assomption# 66 + + #Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes# 68 + + #Grand Duc Wladimir# 104 + _From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg._ + + #M. William Waddington# 142 + _From a copyright photograph by Russell & Son._ + + #The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London# 168 + + #The Dining-room of the French Embassy, London, + Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries# 172 + + #J. J. Jusserand, Counsellor of the French Embassy# 178 + _Recently appointed French Ambassador to the United States. + From a photograph by Walery, Paris._ + + #The Duchess of Cambridge# 180 + _From a photograph by Walery, London._ + + #Windsor Castle# 192 + + #M. and Mme. Waddington and Their Son# 198 + _From a photograph by Cesar, Paris._ + + #The Salon of the French Embassy in London# 210 + + #Lady Salisbury# 216 + + #Knowsley Hall# 228 + _The Earl of Derby's place at Prescot, Lancashire._ + + #The Late Earl of Derby# 232 + _From a photograph by Franz Baum, London._ + + #The Countess Fanny Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassadress# 240 + _From a photograph by Walery, London._ + + #Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the + State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887# 250 + _From a photograph, copyright, by Hughes & Mullins, Ryde, England._ + + #The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the + Uniform Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, + London, June, 1887# 254 + _From a photograph by Loescher & Petsch, Berlin._ + + #Comtesse de Florian# 262 + _From a photograph by Walery, London._ + + #Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the + Shah of Persia, July 8, 1889# 304 + _From a photograph by Russell & Sons, London._ + + #Lord Salisbury# 306 + _From a photograph by Lambert Weston & Son, Dover._ + + #A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy# 320 + _From a photograph by Barker & Pragnell, London._ + + #The Empress Frederick, Wearing the Order of the + Black Eagle# 388 + _The last portrait of the Empress by the artist Angeli._ + + #Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of + Wight# 392 + _From a photograph by Broderick._ + + + + + LETTERS + OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE + + + + + PART I + + THE CORONATION OF THE CZAR + + + _To G. K. S_. + + #Paris#, + 31, Rue Dumont d'Urville, + March 15, 1883. + +Our breakfast at the English Embassy was most interesting. I began by +refusing on account of my mourning, but Lord Lyons wrote me a nice note +saying that there would be no one but the Leon Says and Mr. and Mrs. +Gladstone, so I accepted. I was very anxious to see Mr. Gladstone. + +We had a pretty little breakfast upstairs in the small dining-room, and +the talk at table was most interesting. I thought Mrs. Gladstone looked +older than her husband. He of course did most of the talking. He has a +fine voice, bright, keen, dark eyes, holds himself very erect, and +apparently knows everything about everything. When the men were smoking +after breakfast I had quite a talk with Mrs. Gladstone, who told me +about the murder of Lord Frederick Cavendish. She said her husband heard +it at a big London party, and had to go and tell Lady Frederick. Mr. +Gladstone was more upset by the whole thing (and the having to tell the +unfortunate wife) than she had ever seen him. Il y avait de quoi, for +even here in Paris, where _outside_ questions don't trouble them very +much, there was great excitement when the news came. + +I had a nice talk with Plunkett, who congratulated me on W.'s[1] +appointment as Ambassador to Vienna. I told him there was no truth in +the report (they had offered it to W., but he won't hear of it), and I +think he is quite right. He has no particular _attaches_ at Vienna. He +knows German well, but doesn't speak it absolutely perfectly, and hasn't +really the social talents that one needs in Vienna. They ought to send a +dashing general, or a courtier, not a serious savant. + +[1] W. here and throughout these letters refers to Mme. Waddington's +husband, M. William Henry Waddington, "G. K. S.," "H. L. K.," "A. J. K." +and "J. K.," to whom the letters are addressed, refer to Mme. +Waddington's sisters, Mrs. Eugene Schuyler, Miss Henrietta L. King, and +the late Miss Anne J. King, and to her sister-in-law, the late Mrs. +Cornelius L. King. + +We certainly are leading different lives. I am wrapped in my fur coat, +and driving in a shut carriage. Your tea in the garden sends a shiver +through me. It sounds quite romantic having the son of the "Roi des +Montagnes" to breakfast. I wonder if I shall ever see Athens; W. says +when I do that I will never care again for Rome; that colouring and +ruins are far superior in Greece. I almost think in that case I would +rather remain under my present impression of dear, beautiful Rome, not +quite like our American friend, who thought "the Colosseum was pretty, +but she liked the Court-House at St. Louis better." + + #Paris#, + Sunday, March 18, 1883. + +I will write a little this morning, Dear--I am just back from l'Etoile. +I have had rather an agitated week, and here is my news, good--bad--I +don't know myself. W. is going as Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow to +represent France at the Coronation of the Emperor Alexander. It was a +"bolt from the blue" to us. I will tell you from the beginning. We went +to ride as usual Thursday morning, but rather earlier than usual (9.30). +When we came home Mdme. Hubert told us we hadn't been gone ten minutes, +when le Ministre des Affaires Etrangeres (Challemel-Lacour) came to see +W., was much discomposed at not finding him, and told Mdme. H. he would +come back at 11. He didn't reappear, but one of the young attaches did, +with a note from Challemel begging W. to come and see him directly after +breakfast. We couldn't think what he wanted, but we both made up our +minds it was to insist on the Vienna Embassy. I protested, and I think +W. would not have taken it. + +I went out in the afternoon with Anne to try on a dress at Redfern's, +and just as we were coming away W. appeared. He had seen the carriage at +the door and knew he would find us. He looked rather preoccupied, so I +said, "You are not surely going to Vienna?" + +"No, not to Vienna, probably to Russia, for the Coronation." + +I was too bewildered at first to take it in, and I must frankly say I +was wretched. Of course he asked 24 hours to think it over, though the +Minister urged him very much to accept at once. Challemel also wishes me +to go, says a woman gives more eclat to an Embassy. Of course it will be +a magnificent sight, but I am a perfect poltroon--I am so afraid they +will take advantage of that crowd to blow up everybody. However, if that +should happen it would be better to be blown up together, but I really +am nervous (I am not usually such a coward, but Russian Nihilists and +dynamiters are terrible elements to contend with), and wish they hadn't +asked him to go. + +Of course it is a great honour and compliment to W.'s personal position, +and I have given no opinion, but I don't feel happy at all. I have +always said that I would never try to influence my husband's actions +(public) in any way, and I suppose I have kept to that as well as most +women do who marry public men, but I should like to put a decided veto +now. I will keep you au courant of the decision. + + March 20th. + +Well, Dear, it is quite decided. W. accepts to go to Moscow, and takes +me with him. He consulted his brother and his friends and all told him +he could not refuse. As long as they didn't send a soldier (W. himself +would have asked Marechal MacMahon to go, if he had been at the Foreign +Office), he was "tout indique."[2] It seems all the other Powers are +going to send Princes--Spain, the Duc de Montpensier; England, the Duke +of Edinburgh; Italy, the Duc d'Aoste, etc. + +[2] After the Berlin Congress and the Foreign Office. + +We are to start somewhere about the 8th or 10th of May. W. is busy now +composing his Mission. Of course everybody wants to go. It seems such an +undertaking. We had a nice ride this morning--various people riding +with us, and all talking about the Coronation. I overheard one timid old +gentleman saying to W., "Vous emmenez votre femme? Vous avez tort; on ne +sait pas ce qui peut arriver"--not very reassuring. + + April 1st. + +My Dear, my letters will now become monotonous, as I have only one +idea--the Mission. All the arrangements are being made, such an affair. +W. has sent off a man to Moscow to see about a house big enough to hold +all the party, with ballroom, and large dining-room We are 9 people--W. +and I; Comte de Pontecoulant, Ministre Plenipotentiaire (W.'s ancien +Chef de Cabinet); General Pittie (General de Division, chef de la maison +militaire du President de la Republique); Colonel Comte de Sesmaisons, +commandant les 6eme hussards; Francois de Corcelle, Secretaire +d'Ambassade; Commandant Fayet (de la maison du President--Jules Grevy); +Richard Waddington, Depute, Capitaine dans l'armee territoriale; Robert +Calmon, lieutenant dans l'armee territoriale. L'uniforme est absolument +necessaire en Russie. + +We have three servants--W.'s valet Joseph and my two maids Adelaide and +Mdme. Hubert. All the gentlemen have their servants. Then there is +Pierson, the huissier from the Quai d'Orsay (you know whom I mean, the +big man who wears a gilt chain, announces the people, and writes down +names, etc.), two cooks with one or two garcons de cuisine; 3 coachmen, +Hubert of course, and two Englishmen. One, Mr. Leroy, such a magnificent +person, came this morning to see W. He has already represente on several +occasions, and driven gala carriages, etc. He seems graciously inclined +to go with us (with very high wages, and making his conditions--will +drive only the Ambassador and Ambassadress in the gala carriage, etc.). +That will necessitate very delicate negotiations with Hubert, who also +wishes to drive only the Ambassador and me. However, as he has never +driven a gala carriage, and they are very heavy, unwieldy vehicles to +manage, I think he must waive his claim. + + April 10th. + +There has also been a long consultation about horses, how many for the +gala carriage. When Marechal MacMahon went as Ambassador Extraordinary +to the Emperor of Germany's Coronation he had six horses and running +footmen (it seems there must be six or two--four are not allowed. Four +would be too sporting--not serious enough). We have four enormous +footmen, and one ordinary sized one for every-day use--2 gala carriages, +and a coupe d'Orsay, which must be painted dark blue with white stripes, +our colours. + + April 12th. + +We are getting on slowly. The horse question is settled--no one has more +than two, so we take 9 enormous carrossiers. Hawes is commissioned to +get them. They could not be found anywhere in France. I forget the exact +height (as big as they make them), but he promises to get them from +England, or the Luxembourg, where it seems they have a special breed of +enormous, heavy coach horses. + +We had a most satisfactory interview this morning with M. Lhermite, the +head man of the great restaurant, Potel & Chabot. W. had been rather +bothered about a head man, or major domo, who could take charge of the +whole household. Our Joseph is not very brilliant--he does W.'s service, +and can look after an ordinary household, but would not be at all up to +the mark in this case. Lhermite heard that W. was looking for someone, +so he came and volunteered to go with us, and superintend everything. He +was so well dressed and had such good manners that W. rather demurred, +and thought he was above the place; however Lhermite pressed it very +much, and wound up by saying, "J'ai ete cuisinier moi-meme, Monsieur, +personne ne vous servira mieux que moi." So it was settled, and he has +full powers to engage cooks, scullions, etc. + +The man who went to Moscow has just sent us the plan of the house which +he has found. It seems large and handsome, a good entrance, marble +staircase, large ballroom and dining-room, and sufficient bedrooms. It +calls itself "Maison Klein," not a palace; and is evidently the house of +a rich Jew. + + Sunday, May 6th. + +I am glad to have a day of rest, Dear. I didn't even get up for church. +The standing at the dressmaker's is something awful. Yesterday I tried +12 dresses (finished), 6 at Delannoy's before breakfast, and 6 at +Philippe's afterwards. They are all handsome--I think the Court dresses +will be handsome. The principal one for the day of the Coronation is +sapphire blue satin embroidered all round the train (3 metres long), +with a beautiful wreath of flowers in chenille, and silk, and gold and +silver leaves; very showy, in fact rather clinquant (not at all like +me), but they said I must have "des toilettes a effet qui seraient +remarquees." The under-dress is salmon pink satin, the front all covered +with flowers to match the embroidery. I shall wear blue feathers (short +ones) in my hair. I am happy to say that the regulation white waving +plumes of the English Court are not de rigueur in Russia. The other +train is a pale pink satin with raised dark red flowers and velvet +leaves, all the front my old point de Venise flounces which look +handsome. I suppose I shall take about 18 dresses in all. + +I have just had a nice visit from Prince Orloff, Russian Ambassador +here, who is a great friend of ours, and who was very anxious from the +first that I should go. I confided to him that I was very nervous and +uncomfortable. I don't mind so much in the day time when I am seeing +quantities of people, and interested in the preparations; but I don't +sleep, and have visions of the Kremlin being blown up, and all sorts of +horrors. As Richard[3] goes with us too, I have made W. appoint a +guardian for Francis, as Henrietta and Anne could hardly bring up a +Frenchman, and after all we may none of us ever come back. + +[3] Richard Waddington, Mme. Waddington's brother-in-law, now Senator of +the Seine Inferieure. + +Henrietta was reduced to tears this morning when W. gave her the key of +his secretaire, and said his will and last directions were there, in +case anything happened to him--cheerful preparations for a festive +journey. + + Tuesday, May 8, 1883. + +Our boxes and cases are being packed, and the house is a +curiosity--crowded with every conceivable thing. My two maids (I take +Mdme. Hubert too, as Adelaide is not very strong, and if she gave out I +should be in a bad way) are much taken up with their outfit. They each +have two sets of new things, a blue serge costume and coat for +travelling, and a black silk for their gala occasions. Pontecoulant is +always teasing Mdme. Hubert, and asking if "ses toilettes sont pretes." + +This morning I saw the 9 gigantic horses which were paraded under the +windows. They started to-night, as they must rest at Berlin. M. Lhermite +is a treasure. He also starts to-night with his cooks and provisions of +all kinds. W. and Pontecoulant gave him all their instructions, and then +he came for mine. I told him I must have my maids in the room next to +me, and as we had a plan of the house, it is quite easy. I have a +fair-sized bedroom and dressing-room (which he will arrange as a sort of +boudoir) on the court (no living rooms are on the street), and the maids +a large room opening out of the dressing-room. He is eminently +practical; takes charge of the whole personnel, will arrange a sort of +dormitory for all the men servants; will see that they are ready in +time, clean and well turned out. + +Pontecoulant, who is also very practical, overlooks that part of the +business; also the stables, and Mr. Leroy and Lhermite will report to +him every morning. Leroy has also just been in, much pleased with his +gala carriage and liveries. Hubert is beaming, and most particular about +his lace jabot and ruffles. I wonder how they will all ever settle down +to our quiet life again. + + Thursday, 10th. + +I will finish this afternoon, Dear. I am ready to start, dressed in my +travelling dress, dark blue cloth, with a long coat lined with red +satin, and a black hat with blue feathers (I haven't got on the coat and +hat yet). There has been such a procession of people all day, and great +vans to carry off the luggage. I have been rather bothered about my +jewels--how to carry them. I have taken everything the family own. +Anne's necklace, with some extra stones I had, has been converted into a +tiara. All the Russian women wear their National coiffure at the +Coronation, the Kakoshnik. As that is very high, studded with jewels, +any ordinary arrangement of stars and feathers would look insignificant. +Freddy, who is an authority on such matters, advised me to concentrate +all my efforts on the tiara--he also suggested ropes of pearls +(artificial) but I couldn't make up my mind to that. Chemin, the +jeweller, was very anxious I should "louer" a sort of breastplate of +diamonds--but on the whole I preferred taking less--merely mine and the +sisters'. What I shall do if they are stolen or lost I am sure I don't +know. I don't care to carry them myself in a bag, as I never by any +chance carry my bag, I should certainly leave it somewhere; and I don't +like to give it to the maids either, so I have put all the jewels in two +trunks, scattered about the fond, wrapped up with silk stockings, etc. + +I have given my last instructions to Nounou, and a nice young coachman +who comes to replace Hubert in our absence, and also provided a surprise +for baby in the shape of a large train, which will distract him the +first days. We saw also this morning the detective who goes with us. He +is one of those who always accompany the foreign Princes who pass +through Paris, and is said to know well all the great nihilist leaders +(all of whom he says will be at the Coronation). He has two ordinary +policemen with him. They go of course on the train with us, and never +lose sight of us. I shall feel rather like a distinguished criminal +being tracked across Europe. + +Pontecoulant is very funny over Philippe the coiffeur, who presented +himself at the Quai d'Orsay, and insisted upon being included in the +suite (consequently travelling free of expense on the special trains, +etc., with us). He really isn't my coiffeur--I never have anyone except +Georges from time to time, but I daresay I shall be glad to have him. He +said to Pontecoulant, "Monsieur le Comte comprend bien qu'il faut que je +pose le diademe de Madame l'Ambassadrice le jour du Couronnement;" +however he has gained his point, and Madame l'Ambassadrice takes her own +coiffeur with her, as well as her two maids. + +Well, Dear, we are going in an hour, and I must try and reason with +myself, and not be the arrant coward I really feel like. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #Kaiserhof, Berlin#, + Saturday, May 12th, 1883. + +Here we are, having accomplished our journey so far most comfortably. We +arrived last night about 9, and this morning I am unpacking a little, +and settling myself, as we shall stay four or five days. Our departure +from the Gare du Nord Thursday night was a curiosity. We got rather +early to the station, as W. was preoccupied with the baggage, and +besides there were last words to say to all the people who came to see +us off. Henrietta, rather tearful, came with us to the station--Francis +was so engrossed with his new railway train that was careering round on +beautiful green rails in his father's study, that he was quite +indifferent. The whole quai was filled with boxes and trunks labelled +"Waddington, Moscow," and when you think that all the soldiers took +their saddles and trappings of all kinds, and what the stable alone +represented, 2 enormous gala carriages, one coupe d'Orsay, and all the +heavy harness and servants' liveries, you can imagine what an excitement +there was until everything was put on board. + +We started, however, fairly punctually--W. and I had a lit-salon, with +cabinet de toilette; the two maids and W.'s man next door, and +Sesmaisons and Francois de Corcelle (the only two who came with us, the +rest of the Mission joins us Tuesday at Berlin), had their coupe next to +ours. There were all sorts of last directions to be given to +Pontecoulant, and to poor Henrietta, who remains in charge of Francis. + +I slept pretty well all night, as you know I am a good traveller, and +about 7 Adelaide came in to arrange me a little, as we were to breakfast +at Cologne (where we were due at 8 o'clock) with our consul there, and +also the consul at Duesseldorf, who is rather a friend of W.'s. We had a +very good little breakfast in the private room, and when we started +again, the Chef-de-Gare coming at the last moment to conduct us to our +coupe, there was much bowing and scraping to Monsieur l'Ambassadeur and +Mdme. l'Ambassadrice. We made quite an excitement at the station, and +all the people who were coming and going in the numerous trains that +passed through had their heads out of the windows to see what was going +on. They had filled our coupe with papers of all kinds (German), +illustrated and political, also a large bouquet for me. + +We dined at Hanover, not in a private room this time, but at a round +table at one end of the large room. Who do you think came to see me? Mr. +Joy; he had seen in the papers that we were to pass through, so he took +himself down to the station to see if he could see us. I introduced him +to W.--we had only time for a little talk, as he came rather late. He +also brought papers and a magazine or two, so we are well supplied with +literature for the present. + +When we arrived here at the station we found M. de Courcel, our +Ambassador in Berlin, waiting for us with all his staff. He drove us at +once in his carriage to the hotel, and said he would come in again an +hour later and tell W. about his audiences, etc. We have beautiful +rooms, a large salon looking on the street, dining-room, two good-sized +bedrooms and a very good ante-room (where by the way Pierson, with his +chain and sword and dress clothes, is already installed. When I came out +of the salon just now he was there, and I rather felt as if I was back +at the Quai d'Orsay, and he was announcing my visitors). + +While we were talking to Courcel last night one of the hotel servants +came in to say--would I go for one moment to speak to the maids, he +couldn't make out what they wanted. I did go, but merely to tell these +ladies that I would thank them to get along as well as they could, and +to find a polygot waiter, or someone to translate for them; that I +certainly was not going to look out for them, and they had better try +and learn a little German. + +Courcel says the Emperor, Prince Imperial, and Bismarck all want to see +W.--he also warns him that Bismarck is in an execrable humor. I don't +think W. minds that very much. He is a very cool gentleman himself, and +I imagine he will say all he wants to to the great man. + + 10-30. + +W. and I went for a walk before breakfast to the Pariser Platz to see +the outside of the French Embassy; it looks big and imposing. We came +home through "Unter den Linden." Berlin has much improved, and has much +more the air of a capital than when I first saw it a great many years +ago. Of course I was much struck with the quantities of soldiers one +sees in the streets. The officers are a fine lot of men, but, like +ramrods, so stiff; and when they are walking two or three together take +up the whole pavement. + +Sesmaisons and Corcelle breakfasted with us--Sesmaisons is delighted to +be back in Berlin. He was military attache there at the time of the +Berlin Congress, when St. Vallier was Ambassador, and has many friends. +M. de Courcel came in just as we were finishing, with a long list for +W., his audience cards, invitations, etc. Then came George de Bunsen +with his wife and daughters. I had never seen the ladies of the family, +and was glad to make their acquaintance. They were very friendly, and we +made various engagements with them. M. de Bunsen I had seen before in +France--he is quite charming, very good-looking, and not at all +Prussian, so cosmopolitan, which is always most attractive. + +W. and I went out together and paid several visits, to the Embassy +first, where we found Mdme. de Courcel. The rooms are large and +handsome, with good pictures and splendid tapestries. We took a turn in +the Thiergarten, and the Jardin Zooelogique (where we saw an enormous +yellow lion--a terrible beast, handsome, too). W. then went to see +Hatzfeldt (Foreign Minister), who was very amiable, but said nothing in +particular--none of Bismarck's people ever do. + +We dined early at the Embassy with all the personnel. The dinner was +good and handsome, plenty of servants, lights, flowers--everything in +very good style. While the men were smoking Mdme. de Courcel and I +talked. She told me some of her Berlin experiences, and how difficult +her beginnings were, but I suppose they always must be until one has had +time to look around a little. We have just come home, and after talking +a little with the gentlemen I have left them to their cigars and papers, +and am glad to be in my own quarters. + +The maids have had a delightful afternoon. They have found a gerant who +speaks French, and who has taken them a little about Berlin, which they +find "tres gentil." W. has his audience from the Emperor at one o'clock +to-morrow in uniform. None of the ladies, Empress nor Princesses, are +here, so I have nothing to do. + + Sunday, May 13th. + +I didn't go out this morning, but wrote and read. The two gentlemen +breakfasted with us as usual, and a little before one W. went off for +his audience with the Emperor in full uniform, which is very becoming to +him. (He hates it as it is so heavy, with all the thick gold embroidery, +and he is very hot and uncomfortable.) The audience lasted about +three-quarters of an hour. W. was astounded at the Emperor's appearance +and conversation, said he was au courant of everything--he said among +other things--"Ah, vous emmenez Mme. Waddington a Moscow? eh bien! moi, +je n'envoie pas mon heritier," adding though immediately he didn't think +there was any danger from the Nihilists this time. + +He had barely time to get home and out of his uniform when Lord and Lady +Ampthill arrived. They were quite charming, both of them. He and I +plunged into the old Roman days, where we knew him so well as Odo +Russell. They are great favourites here, both at court and with their +colleagues. He spoke a great deal about St. Vallier, said he was the +best colleague he had ever had. + +At four W. started again to see Bismarck (not in uniform this time), and +I drove out to the George Bunsens' to have tea. They have a pretty +house. Theodore was also there, and we had a pleasant hour. They asked +us to come in to-morrow after our dinner at the Embassy. When I got back +I found W. smoking in a big arm-chair, quite pleased with his talk with +Bismarck, who was most amiable, had at least no "crise de nerfs" while +he was there. He said he was very frank, almost brutal, in his +appreciations of other countries, and particularly of different public +men whose views didn't coincide directly with his, but on the whole not +too offensive. He kept him until his dinner was announced (at 5 +o'clock), and asked him to come and see him on his way back from Moscow, +and give him his impressions; so apparently it is only from his own +agents that he doesn't wish impressions. Do you remember C. writing to +him, from the Hague, I think, the account of some manifestation or +political crisis, and naturally saying what he thought about the matter; +and the very curt answer he received from the Minister, saying he had +asked for facts, and not for "personal appreciations." One would think +that the opinion of the most ordinary agent on the spot would have a +certain importance. + + Tuesday, 15th. + +It is very warm--I have been out with Adelaide trying to get a light +blouse, my cloth body is unbearable. Everything was shut yesterday, as +it was Whit Monday. W. dined at the Palace at 5, Sesmaisons also. I went +to the races with Mdme. de Courcel and some of the young men. It was +rather amusing, a lovely day, about three quarters of an hour by train +from Berlin. The public was not nearly so elegant as on a Paris +race-course, but there were more pretty women, and quantities of stiff, +arrogant officers (always en tenue). + +When we got back to the hotel at 7.30 we found W. at the door, just back +from his dinner, so Francois de Corcelle and I dined tete-a-tete, and W. +talked to us--said the dinner was good, small and easy. The Prince +Imperial and Grand Duchess of Baden were both there. The Grand Duchess +told W. that in a telegram received that morning from her mother (the +Empress Augusta) she had said how much she regretted not seeing him, +that she had always watched his career with great interest, and was very +glad to see him coming to the front again. + +The Emperor talked about everything--France; England; the religious +question in France; he believed French women of all classes were +clerical, and under the influence of the priests, so naturally they +could have no sympathy with a liberal government, "which is a pity, it +is a mistake to have the women against you." We had an audience with the +Prince Imperial after dinner, which was pleasant, but absolutely +commonplace. He and all the Princes were in uniform, petite tenue. + +We finished our evening at the Bunsens', which was pleasant. W. was very +glad to have a quiet talk with M. de Bunsen, who is most attractive, +such a charming manner. This evening we have dined as usual at the +French Embassy with quite a party, including Bleichroeder, an Israelite +banker, bras droit of Bismarck, and therefore interesting. We came +early, as all the rest of our Mission arrived to-night at 9 o'clock, and +we wanted to see them. They all came up after supper, looking most +cheerful, had had a very pleasant journey, rather warm in the middle of +the day, and were quite game to see all they can of Berlin to-morrow, as +we go on to Warsaw to-morrow night. + + Wednesday, May 16th. + +We are starting this evening, Dear, so I will scratch a few lines to +finish this very long epistle, and will send it from here. It is still +very warm. I went out to see some of the pictures (how beautiful the +Velasquez are) and the marbles of Pergamos, and Pontecoulant and I +breakfasted together at the hotel; W. and Richard at the George +Bunsens', who really have been as friendly and hospitable as possible. +After breakfast we had various visits, and then Pontecoulant, Corcelle +and I went for a last drive in the Thier-Garten. I hoped we should meet +either the Emperor (I have never seen him) or the Prince Imperial, but +we didn't. There were plenty of people riding and driving, as it was the +fashionable day "Corso." We saw the Princess Frederick Charles in an +open carriage with four horses, and a piqueur in front. The Court +liveries are handsome, but sombre, black and silver. Everybody bowed and +curtseyed, the officers saluting de front. + +We went round by the Zoo to show Pontecoulant the big lion. Pontecoulant +was most amusing over their journey, and said he was nearly driven out +of his mind the day before they started with all the people who came to +see him. He says Philippe, the coiffeur, has never left him, that it +won't be his fault if my diadem is not perfectly pose, and that he plied +him with beer all along the route. He is here supping and living at the +hotel with all our suite, and sent word to me this morning that he was +at my disposition to make me a "coiffure de circonstance" for the night +journey. What do you suppose it would have been? + +Pontecoulant had seen Henrietta and Francis the day he left, and had +left orders at the Foreign Office that the Havas telegrams which will +keep her au courant of our movements shall always be sent to her. All +the personnel except W. and me dine at the Embassy to-night. I am not +sorry to have a quiet evening. We leave at 11 to-night, and get to +Alexandrownow about 7.30 to-morrow. That is the Russian frontier, and +there we shall have some sort of official reception. + +W. has been riding these last two days with Sancy, the military attache, +and that always does him good. I couldn't find any sort of silk blouse, +so I trust it won't be very warm travelling to-night. When we cross the +frontier I shall feel as if our journey had begun. Here we have lived so +with the Embassy that I hardly feel as if I was abroad, only the cadre +is different, and the Prussian uniforms a disagreeable reminder. I don't +think it is an easy post to be Ambassador here, and I should think M. de +Courcel's succession would be a very difficult one. He knows German +well, and has always lived with diplomatists, but if they send a +political man, I think he will have a hard time; though as Bismarck said +to W. when they were talking about any possible war in Europe--"Je +desire la paix, je suis un homme satisfait," which wasn't very pleasant +for the French Ambassador to hear, as I suppose what has largely +contributed to his satisfaction is the possession of Alsace-Lorraine. + +We have had our dinner, and W. smoked on the balcony, and we saw all the +gentleman-servants, omnibuses and baggage start. We shall only go just +in time to have 5 minutes talk on the platform with M. de Courcel, who +is coming to say good-by. The gerant of the hotel has just been up to +hope we were satisfied--would we telegraph when we came back, as of +course he would give us the same rooms, and presented me with a large +bouquet. + +Did I say that the Malagache Embassy was at the hotel, on the same floor +with us. Every time I go down the corridor I see two or three tall, dark +men, dressed in white flowing garments and white turbans, who make me +low salaams. They are not going to the "Kronung," as they call it here. + +My next letter will be from Warsaw, where we should arrive at 4 +to-morrow afternoon. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Hotel de l'Europe, Varsovie#, + Thursday, May 17th, 1883. + +Here we are, Dear, having arrived from Berlin at 3.30 this afternoon. We +started at 11--it was very hot even at that hour of the night, and the +coupe-lit stuffy and uncomfortable. M. de Courcel and all his staff were +at the station to see us off, and the two Embassies united made quite a +gathering. I had a little talk with Princess Guillaume Radziwill, who is +starting for the Coronation. It seems she has splendid jewels, and was +rather bothered to know how to carry them. She has got them all on, in +little leather bags around her waist, and she thinks she won't be very +comfortable all night, with pins, brooches, etc., running into her. She +was horrified when I told her where mine were. + +The night was long, we were not very comfortable, and the gentlemen +were decidedly squeezed in one little carriage. We stopped somewhere, +I don't remember the name, about 6. The men all got out and had coffee. +I didn't move, but they sent me in a cup. We got to Alexandrownow, the +Russian frontier, about 8. The station had a decidedly festive +appearance--flags, greens, soldiers, music, etc. They were evidently +preparing a salute and a national anthem of some kind. We all thought it +was for us, and were proceeding to emerge to the strains of the +"Marseillaise," when we heard the "Wacht-am-Rhein." It seems there was a +Hessian Prince, nephew of the Emperor, on board, who was also going to +the Coronation, so we rentreed our heads, and remained quietly in our +carriages until they had disposed of him. + +Then came our turn. We were received with all ceremony--a tall Russian +officer took charge of me, saying, in very good French, he was sure I +would like to brush off the dust, and have some tea, etc. He took me +upstairs to a very nice room, where a little maid was waiting with hot +water, towels, brushes, tea, and little rolls. I took off my dress to +have it brushed, and while I was standing in my petticoats several +gentlemen came to the door (which wouldn't shut), and made various +perfectly unintelligible remarks to me. The little maid laughed and made +signs, and carried off my dress, which I thought was dangerous--however +I couldn't say anything, so I put myself behind the door, and Adelaide +arranged my hair; and I was just thinking of having a cup of tea when +the maid reappeared with my dress, accompanied by another officer, who +told me in French, from the other side of the door, that his Royal +Highness of Hesse hoped I would do him the honour of breakfasting with +him. I said I would come with pleasure, but begged they wouldn't wait, +as I was not quite ready. As soon as I was dressed I sallied out, found +my officer waiting, who conducted me to a private room, where were the +Prince and his party, including W. and a Russian general, who had been +sent from Varsovie to meet the Hessian Prince. + +They were all at table--the Prince put me next to him, introduced the +Russian general and all his suite, and we had rather a pleasant hour. We +had excellent tea in glasses (the first time I ever saw it), delicious +little rolls, eggs, and cold meat. The Prince is a tall, +broad-shouldered, good-natured German, speaking French quite well. + +We had the same ceremony at starting, first the "Wacht-am-Rhein" for the +Germans, then the "Marseillaise" for us. The journey was not +particularly interesting from the frontier here, but Varsovie itself +most curious. We found the same bustle and preparation at the station +here--the Governor of Varsovie, and Prefet de Police en tenue, and our +Consul, M. Berard. + +We drove at once to the hotel, looked at our rooms, which are +comfortable, and started again for a little drive through the town +before dinner. Anything so unlike the cities one has been accustomed to +see can't be imagined, long, straggling streets, enormous spaces, many +houses tumbling down, and abominable pavement, deep holes, and paving +stones as big as ordinary rocks--why the carriage ever got along was a +mystery to us all. The Russian coachman, a perfect type with his long +caftan and flat cap. Why the horses remain attached to the carriage is a +problem, as they apparently have no harness of any description. I used +to think we didn't use much in America. Will you ever forget Coligny's +face at Oyster Bay when we started trotting down hill without any +breeching? + +There were quantities of dirty Polish Jews in every direction, all with +their long caftans, greasy, black curls, and ear-rings. I had time to +rest a little before dinner. We all dined together, also Berard the +Consul, all the men in their dress clothes, and I in my grey moire with +white lace, and a big, black velvet bow, one string of pearls which I +had on under my corsage. Pontecoulant, who is the next man to W., took +me in, and I had General Pittie on the other side. The dinner was +handsome and well served. Pontecoulant had attended to that while we +were driving about. + +After dinner the men all went off to the theatre in the Governor's box +to see a famous ballet. I was rather tired, and as we start again +to-morrow, and have two nights in the train, I sha'n't mind going to bed +early. I was interrupted, as we have had a visit, pleasant enough, from +Mavrocordato (Greek), who is also on his way to Moscow to represent his +country, and now I am going to bed. We leave to-morrow at 4, and I will +try and write a little en route. They say I can probably, as the Russian +roads (railroads) are smooth, and they go very slowly. + + Friday, 2 o'clock. + +I will go on a little and send this letter also from here. We had an +expedition this morning to one of the chateaux belonging to some member +of the Sobieski family, or rather belonging to a Potocki quelconque, +where there are many souvenirs of Sobieski. I never was on such a +villainous pavement (they tell me Moscow is worse), and the road long +and straight through flat country, not very interesting. The chateau was +full of pictures and bibelots of all kinds, and every possible souvenir +of Sobieski, flags, swords, snuff-boxes, etc., and quite worth seeing. I +enjoyed the outing, as everything was absolutely unique, carriages, +costumes, carts, people, language, houses, a poor tumble-down little +hovel next to a great palace with gates and courts and gardens. + +We lunched again with all the Embassy, and then I went to see what was +happening to the maids. I had left them in such a dejected condition on +the landing when I went out. They couldn't get hold of any servant +(couldn't make them understand when they did), couldn't get my boots or +travelling skirt, or hot water, or anything, in fact. The hotel is full +of people, all starting this afternoon, and there is a fine confusion, +but they really must learn to get along without all modern conveniences. + + #Entre Varsovie et Moscou#, + en wagon, Samedi soir, 19. + +I will try and write a little, Dear, while we are stopping at Smolensk +for tea. It is rather difficult when we are moving (though we go slowly) +as you will see by the writing, as the train shakes a great deal. As +soon as it stops we all tumble out, are received by railway officials in +uniform, and conveyed to a private room decorated with greens and flags, +where most elaborate repasts are provided. We got off from Varsovie +yesterday most comfortably about 4 o'clock. Various officials, our +Consul Berard, were at the station to see us off, and an engineer of the +company, who goes with us to Moscow to interpret and look after us +generally. The train is most luxurious--for W. and me one long saloon +carriage lined with grey satin, and with every variety of easy chair, +sofa, table, writing-table, lamp, etc. Flowers on one of the tables and +maps of the route on another. Communicating with it and directly behind +are two bedrooms for us--mine is capitonne in blue satin, a very +good-sized bed, glass, chairs, table, etc., also a dressing-room with +every modern convenience. W.'s is grey satin, equally comfortable, with +dressing-room, bath, etc.--behind these again a coupe for the +maids--then a long carriage for the rest of the Mission with chairs, +tables, etc, and small coupes. The engineer showed us all the +arrangements, hoped we were satisfied, and also told us that two +employes would be stationed at each end of our carriage always for +whatever we might want. + +We got off fairly punctually. I wonder if I shall ever see Varsovie +again. We stopped somewhere about 5.30, and found a charming little tea +waiting for us in a private room, served of course in glasses with +pieces of lemon, and excellent rolls and cakes. There we fraternized +with the Dutch Mission, who are also on the train. M. Schimmelpenninck, +a tall, stylish-looking man, with his son and gendre. The young men had +recognized W., having seen him at the Congres de Berlin; so they +recalled themselves, and we made friends. We agreed to take all our +meals together, and as apparently we shall have about 6 in the day we +shall probably see a good deal of each other. + +We had rather a pleasant evening, dined (very well) at Brest, always the +same ceremonial; and after dinner some of the gentlemen came and paid us +visits. We talked of course about "La Grande Armee" and Napoleon's +campaigns, as we are passing over the same ground that they followed. +The two moujiks at the doors are most attentive and intelligent; as soon +as they hear any noise in our carriage, opening or shutting a window, or +anything falling (some of the heavy books slipped off a table just now), +they seem to divine it, and appear instantly and ask, I suppose, what we +want. We have no means of communication, but they evidently understand. + +I was very comfortable last night in my little blue room, and had been +sleeping quietly, when I seemed to divine that someone had come in. I +didn't stir, and half opened my eyes, and for a moment was rather +startled. The lamp, shaded, was burning, and in came one of the moujiks +quite quietly. He moved very softly about the room, rather an appalling +figure, with his high boots, fur cap, and curious half-savage face +(gentle too), touched door and windows, fussed over the lamp, drew the +curtain of the dressing-room a little closer to keep out any draught +(didn't come up to the bed), and went out again just as quietly. It was +a curious experience, flying through the darkness of the night, and +wakening to see that strange figure prowling about. + +About 7, I think, in the morning he reappeared, this time standing at +the door, and making many perfectly unintelligible remarks. It was so +evident I didn't understand that he smiled, made a despairing gesture +with his hand, and disappeared. As I was quite sure he would come back I +got up and fastened the door. In a few moments I heard a colloquy +outside, and then the voice of the engineer asking when I would like my +maid and my tea--also saying they would stop in about an hour for early +breakfast, and that mine and the Ambassador's would be brought to our +carriage. + +I asked to have the maid at once--so Adelaide appeared with hot water +and a cup of tea, and I dressed as comfortably as if I was in my +dressing-room at the Rue Dumont d'Urville. As soon as I was ready I went +into the big carriage, which looked very nice and clean, had been swept +and dusted, window-panes washed (Adelaide saw the men doing it); a very +nice little breakfast tray was brought, tea, every variety of good +little rolls, and some fish. We contented ourselves with the rolls, +didn't experiment upon the fish. The table was close to the window--all +the gentlemen came up and talked to us, and as usual there were +quantities of people about. + +We have passed through most desolate country, miles of plains, with +scarcely any traces of human habitation. The cottages are very few and +far between--generally a collection of little wood hovels, or "isbas," +as they are called. We go long distances without seeing houses, fences, +gates, or even a road. At all the stations there are people--the big +ones crowded--and at the smaller ones, where we hardly stop, merely +slacken, peasants--and such objects, one can hardly tell the men from +the women; long, unkempt hair, all barefooted, and all wearing a sort of +fur garment with a hole in the middle to pass the head through, and +which falls low down to their knees. + +We have just had tea at Smolensk, which is very Russian looking, with +gilded domes and pink and green painted roofs. The gentlemen are smoking +and walking up and down the platform, always exciting great attention. +There are two rather pretty girls, with fair hair and red blouses, who +are giggling and looking, and evidently wish to be remarked. + +We have gone on again now and are settled for the evening. The carriage +looks so comfortable, curtains drawn, lamps lighted, flowers on the +tables, and quantities of books and maps. Sesmaisons and Corcelle have +just been in with their maps and Napoleon's Memoirs. It is most +interesting to follow it all. They read out bits here and there as we +passed through some well-known locality. At the Beresina, I think, where +the passage of the river was so awful--some of the men quite exhausted, +and yet not wanting to lie down on the snow, made themselves seats out +of the dead bodies of their comrades. What an awful retreat! + +We have crossed the Beresina, where we saw a long procession of wood +rafts. They are of the most primitive description--long logs lashed +together, and in the middle a sort of cabin or hovel, where the women +and children live. They were floating slowly down with the tide as we +passed, and singing a sort of sad, monotonous chaunt, which sounded +weird and pathetic, but impressionnant. They say all the Russian +National songs have that undercurrent of sadness. + +Our dinner to-night was very gay. Schimmelpenninckg is most attractive. +We have become great friends--I have even confided to him where my +jewels are, as he thought I had left a bag in one of the stations, and +was convinced it held my diamonds. I told him what dress I was going to +wear at the Coronation, also my difficulty in finding out what the +French Court dress was. The Empress never wore a regular Court +train--her presentations in the Tuileries were always in the evening, in +ordinary ball dress. I didn't think Queen Marie Amelie's would have been +very pretty, so we concocted a Court dress from pictures, other people's +souvenirs, etc. + +I was glad to walk up and down a little--one gets cramped sitting so +long, even with our outings for food, which are frequent. The tea is +extremely good always, a sort of greenish flavour, but very delicate, +and I should think very strong. Pontecoulant showed me Monsieur +Philippe in the distance, talking and gesticulating, evidently +considering himself a most important feature of the Mission--also the +detective, who looks like an amiable well-to-do bourgeois travelling for +his pleasure, until you meet his eyes, and there is a quick, keen look +which tells you he is very much on the alert. He has again just given W. +the pleasing piece of information that all the well-known Nihilist +leaders will be at Moscow. + +Hubert came up and says the horses are quite well--their rest at Berlin +did them good. He is very much impressed with the absolute solitude of +the country--"pas de villages--pas de barrieres, pas meme de chemins." +We have also a telegram from M. Lhermite saying the house is quite in +order, he and his cooks and attendants installed, and he will have +breakfast ready for us to-morrow morning. We arrive about 8. We must be +ready early, as they say the approach to Moscow is very fine. It stands +low in a plain, but one sees the gilt domes and coloured steeples from a +great distance. + +Our engineer tells us the railway officials are out of their minds. He +says the special envoys--Princes particularly--change their minds and +their routes all the time. They all have special trains, and the +confusion will be something awful. The Hessian Prince is just ahead of +us. We haven't crossed many trains, and yet there must be frequent +communication between Varsovie and Moscow. + +I still feel rather in a dream, but not tired. I must stop now as it is +nearly eleven--my next letter will be from Maison Klein, Malaia +Dimitrofska, Moscow. Richard came in just now, and we have been talking +over our future--Russia is a "terra incognita" to all of us. It has +been certainly most novel and interesting so far. Just now we stopped +for a few moments at a little station, quite alive with people and +lights, as of course trains are going all night. The people look so +different--generally fair, with flat features, and a repressed look, as +if they had always been kept down. + +This long effusion will go early to-morrow morning, as they send off a +valise at once from Moscow. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Ambassade de France, Moscow#, + #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#, + Monday, May 21st, 1883. + +We arrived quite safely and comfortably yesterday morning--34 people, +counting servants, policemen, etc. I hadn't time to write, but you will +have had the Havas telegram announcing our arrival. I am writing in my +little boudoir, which looks on a large, square, light courtyard, and I +wish you could see the wild confusion that reigns there. Quantities of +boxes and "ballots" of every description. Mdme. Hubert, with a veil tied +over her head, struggling to get at some of my trunks, which are all marked +with an enormous M. K. W. in white letters (a private mark, so as not to +confound them with the general mark of the Mission). Leroy, Hubert, and +Pontecoulant trying to get the big carriage cases opened (they look like +small houses). Sesmaisons and Calmon fussing over their saddles, which they +apparently had got without much difficulty--quantities of Russian helpers +working, talking, but _not_ loud, nor yelling to each other. How anything +will ever come out of all that chaos I don't know. + +However, I must begin at the beginning. We got here about 8.30 yesterday +morning. We were all up early, as the country grew more interesting as +we approached Moscow. We had a confused vision of gilt domes, high +coloured steeples, etc., but nothing stood out very distinctly. There +was a fine confusion at the station--quantities of officials, all in +uniform, detachments of soldiers, red carpets, etc. We were _not_ +received officially, not being Princes. The Mission only exists here +_after_ they have presented their lettres de creance. We found our +consul, Lagrene, waiting for us, several members of the French Colony, +and Lhermite. We drove off at once to our Ambassade. The main street, +Tverskaya, looked very gay with quantities of flags and draperies in +every direction, and even at that time in the morning a great many +people. Our house looks well--the entrance isn't bad, and the staircase +marble, handsome. I hardly looked at the reception-rooms, as I was +anxious to get to mine. Lhermite had done them very well, quite as I +wanted, and a nice-looking woman, Russian of course, the femme de charge +left in the house, was there to see if everything was right. + +I washed off a little dust, got a cup of tea, and then went with W. and +Pontecoulant to inspect the house. The ballroom, "serre," and 3 +drawing-rooms are nice; the dining-room small in comparison and low. Not +a breath of air anywhere, double windows, hermetically sealed, with +_one_ pane opening in each; so the very first thing we did was to send +for someone to take down the extra window, and open everything wide--the +close smell was something awful. The femme de charge was astounded, and +most unwilling. I think she thought we wished to demolish the whole +establishment. W. has a large room opening out of the drawing-room. +Pontecoulant took charge of the distribution of the gentlemen's rooms +(which wasn't easy, as they were generally small, and not particularly +comfortable, but I must say they were all easy going, and not at all +inclined to make difficulties). He chose a room down-stairs for himself +next the Chancellerie, which he has arranged at once very well. The +ballroom is handsome, a parquet floor, and yellow satin furniture; the +other drawing-rooms too are well furnished in silk and satin. The +dining-room is small, but the serre will make a very good fumoir where +the gentlemen can sit and smoke. It has nice cane arm-chairs and tables, +and will be a resource. + +I went back to my own rooms and arranged my affairs with the maids. +There is a large room, half lingerie, half debarras, upstairs, with good +placards and closets where I can put my dresses if I ever get hold of +them. They must be unpacked at once, particularly the velvet dresses. Of +course I am always at the window. My Dear, how it would amuse you, so +absolutely unlike anything you have ever seen. + +The men seem to work well enough--they all wear red flannel shirts +tucked into their trousers, and high boots--at the present moment they +are all gaping at the horses, who certainly do look enormous (the +Russian horses are all small). It seems ours stand the cannon, and +shouting, and waving flags and draperies very well (so the lessons in +the Ecole Militaire, where they were taken several times after they +arrived in Paris to have cannons and guns fired close to their heads, +and flags waved about, did them good). + +A little Russian maid, in a red petticoat, and a blue handkerchief tied +over her head, has just appeared, and I suppose will be a sort of fille +de chambre. She smiles every time I speak to the maids, and watches +every movement I make. I moved a fauteuil just now, and in an instant +she had possession of it, and stood over it looking at me hard to see +where I wanted it put. I daresay we shall get on very well. We +breakfasted at 12.30 all together--a very good breakfast, flowers on +the table, and everything most correct. The gentlemen were amusing, all +giving their experiences. Just as we were finishing we heard someone +coming, with the clank of sabre, and those long, heavy spurs the +Russians wear; and a good-looking officer, Colonel Benckendorff, who +was attached to our Embassy, appeared. He will never lose sight of us +now until the ceremonies are over. + +We adjourned to the serre, and he put us au courant of everything. He +told us the crowd and confusion at the Kremlin was indescribable (all +the foreign Princes are lodged there). He had all sorts of papers, +invitations, audiences, cartes de circulation, etc. W. is to present his +lettres de creance and all the Mission en grande tenue at 10.30 to-day. +(I am waiting now to see them start.) W. has just been in, looking very +well, as he always does in full uniform. He wears the Danish Grand +Cordon, he hasn't the Legion d'Honneur nor any Russian decoration. Two +Maitres des Ceremonies, covered with gold lace and embroideries, have +arrived in an ordinary Russian Court coupe--they have also an Imperial +gala carriage for the Ambassador, and two ordinary Court carriages, and +they have just started, quite a crowd of people before the house to see +them depart. First went two Maitres des Ceremonies, their coats covered +with gold embroidery; then W. alone in a gala carriage with four horses, +two footmen standing behind, two mounted, and an ecuyer. The rest of the +Mission followed in two ordinary Court carriages, all with the Imperial +liveries, which are not very handsome, long red cloaks, with a sort of +cocked hat. Benckendorff followed alone in his private carriage. + +[Illustration: Colonel Benckendorff From a photograph by Bergamasco St +Petersburg] + +Our big footmen figured for the first time--the four in their blue and +silver livery were at the door when the Maitres des Ceremonies arrived, +and Pierson with his chain in the anteroom. They looked very well; +Lhermite and our coachman saw the whole thing, and were not at all +impressed with carriages, liveries, or horses. They said the carriages +were absolutely shabby, the liveries neither well made nor well put on, +and the horses beneath criticism. They do look extraordinarily small +before those great heavy state carriages, rather like rats, as Hubert +says--"Quand on verra les notres ce sera une surprise," for they are +enormous. + +What do you think I did as soon as they had all gone? I had rather an +inspiration--I told the maids to bring me my blue court train (they have +unpacked some of the boxes, the jewels are all right, and locked up in a +coffre-fort in W.'s room, but can't find one of Delannoy's caisses; I +suppose it will turn up though, as Pontecoulant says the compte was +quite right when we arrived yesterday, all the boxes here). I then +locked the door of the ballroom, stationed Pierson outside, with strict +orders not to let anyone in, put on my train over my brown cloth dress, +put Adelaide and Mdme. Hubert at one end of the room, and whisked +backwards and forwards, making them low curtseys (they were rather +embarrassed). I have never worn a train in my life, as you know, and I +wanted to see how it would go. It seems perfectly cut, and follows every +movement, and doesn't get twisted around my ankles. The maids were quite +satisfied, and told me it worked beautifully, particularly when I backed +across the room. Madame Jaures, wife of Admiral Jaures, permanent French +Ambassador to Russia, told me such hideous tales yesterday, when she +came to see me, of women getting nervous and entangled in their trains +when they backed away from the Emperor, that I thought I had better take +some precautions. I indulged in those antics for about twenty minutes, +then unlocked the door, released Pierson, and went upstairs to the +lingerie to see how my unpacking was getting on. The missing trunk had +just arrived, and my two women, with the little Russian maid, whose eyes +opened wide when she saw the quantity of dresses being produced, and +W.'s man were putting things to rights. + +The gentlemen got back to a late breakfast, much pleased with their +reception. They were received in a small palace outside of Moscow,[4] as +the Emperor makes his formal entree into the town to-morrow only. They +found the Emperor very amiable, talking quite easily, saying something +to everyone. He had on the Grand Cordon of the Legion d'Honneur. They +were all presented also to the Empress. W. said she was very gracious +and charming; remembered quite well having seen us in Paris. We were +presented to her by the Prince of Wales, Exhibition year. He said she +recalled the Princess of Wales, not so tall, and had splendid eyes. + +[4] Petrofski. + +Benckendorff stayed to breakfast, and we told him his place would be +always ready for him at breakfast and dinner. The hours of standing +apparently will be something awful. About 3.30 Mdme. Jaures came for +me, and we went to see Lady Thornton, who is Doyenne of the Corps +Diplomatique, but didn't find her. The Jaures have just arrived +themselves with all the Corps Diplomatique from Petersburg. They said +the starting from there was frightfully mismanaged, not nearly carriages +enough for the people and their luggage. The Ambassadors furious, +railway officials distracted, a second train had to be prepared which +made a long delay, and a general uproar. The only man who was quite +quiet and happy was Mr. Mackay (Silver King from California). He formed +part of the United States Mission, had his own private car attached to +the train, in which were Mrs. Mackay and Mr. and Mrs. Hunt (U. S. +Minister and his wife), and was absolutely independent. + +After leaving our cards we drove through the Tverskaya, the main street. +There were quantities of people, and vehicles of every description, from +the Ambassadors' carriages (all with small, black Russian horses, a +Russian coachman in caftan and flat cap, and a gorgeous chasseur, all +gold braid, and hat with feathers, beside him), to the most ordinary +little drosky or fiacre. Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, passed us going +very quickly with the regular Russian attelage--3 horses, one scarcely +harnessed, galloping almost free on one side. + +All the houses are dressed with red and gold draperies, and immense +tribunes put up all along the street, as the procession passes through +it from one end to the other when the Emperor makes his formal entrance +to-morrow. There are crowds of peasants and country people, all the men +in flannel shirts tucked into their trousers, and the women with a +handkerchief or little shawl over their heads. They don't look the least +gay, or excited, or enthusiastic; on the contrary, it is generally a sad +face, principally fair, and blue eyes. They stand, apparently a compact +mass, in the middle of the street, close up to the carriages, which can +scarcely get on--then comes a little detachment of Cossacks (most +curious looking, quite wild, on very small horses, and enormous long +lances), rides into the crowd and over them. They make no resistance, +don't say anything, and close up again, as soon as the carriage +passes--and so it goes on all day. + +I was quite excited when we drove into the Kremlin--it is enormous, +really a city, surrounded by a great crenellated wall, with high towers +at intervals, quantities of squares, courts, churches, palaces, +barracks, terraces, etc. The view of the town from one of the terraces +overlooking the river is splendid, but the great interest is the Kremlin +itself. Numbers of gilt domes, pink and green roofs, and steeples. It +seemed to me that pink predominated, or was it merely the rose flush of +the sunset which gave a beautiful colour to everything. We saw of course +the great bell, and the tower of Ivan the Terrible (from where they told +us he surveyed massacres of hundreds of his soldiers), everywhere a +hurrying, busy crowd (though always quiet). + +Thanks to our "Carte de Circulation" we pass everywhere, though stopped +at every moment. We crossed, among other things, a procession of +servants, and minor court officials, with quantities of silver dishes, +flagons, etc., some great swell's dinner being sent from the Imperial +Palace. We went from one great square to another, stopping at the Palace +where all the fetes are to be. There we found one or two Court officials +whom Mdme. Jaures knew, and they showed us as much as they could, but +everybody is "sur les dents," and nothing ready; and in spite of all the +precautions one feels that there is a strong undercurrent of nervousness. +We went to the Church de l'Assomption, where the Coronation is to take +place. There too we found officials, who showed us our places, and exactly +where the Court would be. The church is small, with a great deal of gilding +and painting. All the tribunes are ready, and what we shall feel like when +the ceremony is over I am sure I don't know. It will last about three hours +and a half, and we stand all the time. There is not a vestige of a seat in +the Tribune Diplomatique--merely a sort of rail or "barre d'appui" where +one can lean back a little. + +We lingered a little on the terrace overlooking the river where there is +a fine view of the town, and came out by the Porte St. Sauveur, where +everyone, Emperor and peasant, uncovers. I was glad to get home and rest +a little before dinner, but I have had a delightful afternoon. + +I will finish this evening, as the bag goes to-morrow. We had a pleasant +dinner, our personnel only, and Colonel Benckendorff, who told us all we +had to do these days. The day of the Coronation we meet at the German +Embassy (General Schweinitz, who married Anna Jay, is Doyen of the Corps +Diplomatique), and go all together to the Kremlin. The hour of +rendezvous is 8 there, and as it is quite far off, and the gala +carriages go on a walk, we must leave here at 7, and get up at Heaven +knows what hour. What do you think we will look like in full Court dress +at that hour in the morning? Our dinner was very good--wines, fruit, +etc. W. complimented Lhermite. + +To-morrow we start at 11 for the Palace of Prince Dolgourouky, Governor +of Moscow, from where we see the Emperor pass on his way to the Kremlin. +It is not far away, but the streets are so barricaded and shut up that +we must make a long detour. The most stringent measures are taken, all +windows closed, no canes nor umbrellas allowed, and a triple line of +troops all along the route. The maids are much excited. They have places +in one of the Tribunes, and M. Lhermite is going to escort them. In some +marvellous way they have been able to communicate with the Russian +maids, and have given me various pieces of information. I have left the +gentlemen all smoking in the serre, except W., who retired to his own +quarters, as he had some despatches to write. He has had a long talk +with Jaures this afternoon, and has also seen Sir Edward Thornton, +British Ambassador. The house is quite quiet--the court-yard asleep, as +no carriages or horses have been out to-night. We have two ordinary +Russian landaus, with those fast little horses, for our every-day +outings, as the big coupe d'Orsay only goes out on state occasions. + +The detective has made his report, and says the Nihilists will do +nothing to-morrow--_perhaps_ the night of the gala at the Opera. It is +curious to live in such a highly charged atmosphere, and yet I am less +nervous--I wonder why--the excitement I suppose of the whole thing. +Well, Good-night, Dear; I would say it in Russian if I could, but so far +all I have learnt is "Tchai," which means tea, and "Karosch," which +seems to be an exclamation of delighted admiration. The little maid says +it every time I appear in a new garment. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Ambassade de France a Moscou#, + #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#, + Mardi, May 22d, 1883. + +How shall I ever begin to describe to you, Dear, the wonderful life we +are leading. Everything is unlike anything I have ever seen. I suppose +it is the beginning of the real far-off East. This morning I am sitting +at the window reading and writing, and looking out into the court-yard, +which is a never-failing interest--such quantities of people always +there. The first thing I hear in the morning is Pontecoulant's voice. He +is there every day at eight o'clock, conferring with Leroy and Hubert, +examining the horses and carriages, deciding which ones are to be used, +and giving orders for the day. + +Then arrive the two Russian landaus which go all day, and very different +they look from our beautiful equipages and big important servants. Then +comes Lhermite, rattling off, in a low pony cart, with the boy from the +Consulate along-side of him. He goes to market every day, and nearly has +a fit because he can't talk himself, and he knows they are all lying, +and stealing, and imposing upon him generally. In one corner there is a +group of little Russian horses tied to the stable doors, with Russian +soldiers fussing over them. They have been sent from one of the cavalry +barracks for the gentlemen to ride. + +In every direction men are cleaning carriages, saddles, harness, +liveries; and with such little noise--they are extraordinarily quiet. + + May 22d, 5.30 + +We have just got back from the Governor's palace; and to-night the +Emperor is safe in the Kremlin. + +It was a marvellous day. We started (the whole Mission) at 10.30 this +morning, W. and I alone in the d'Orsay, which looked very handsome. It +is dark blue with white stripes, like all our carriages, and lined with +blue satin of rather a lighter shade. The men were in demi-gala, blue +plush breeches, white silk stockings, and high hats (not tricornes), +with silver bands and cords. Thornton, the English coachman, looked very +smart, and handled his big black horses perfectly. The gentlemen told us +he used very strong language when he got back to the stables over the +abomination of the Moscow pavement. We were preceded as usual by Richard +and Benckendorff in a light carriage. I wore one of Philippe's dresses, +brown gauze embroidered in velvet flowers, all the front ecru lace, and +an ecru straw bonnet, with a vieux rose velvet crown. + +I was much amused while I was dressing to hear various members of the +party in the lingerie, "Madame, voulez-vous me coudre un bouton," "les +plumes de mon chapeau ne tiennent pas," etc., even Thornton came in to +have his lace cravate tied. We were a long time getting to Prince +Dolgourouky's palace; not that it is far away, but the streets are +barricaded in every direction, however I didn't mind--the crowd was so +interesting, packed tight; they had been standing for hours, they told +us, such pale, patient faces, but so _un_joyous; no jokes, nor bits of +songs, nor good-natured scuffling; so unlike our Paris crowd on a great +fete day, laughing and chaffing, and commenting freely on everything; +and certainly very much unlike the American-Irish crowd at home in New +York, on the 4th of July or St. Patrick's day. I remember quite well +putting boxes of fire-crackers in a tin pail to frighten the horses, and +throwing numerous little petards under people's feet, but no one seemed +to mind. Fancy the effect of a pailful of fire-crackers exploding in any +part of Moscow to-day. The tribunes covered with red cloth, or red and +gold, crammed; and armies of soldiers, mounted and on foot, in every +direction; and yet we were only in the side streets. The real crowd was +in the Tverskaya where the cortege was to pass. + +When we finally arrived we were received by the Governor's two nieces, +Madame Mansouroff and Princess Obolenski. The Prince, like all the other +Russian noblemen, took part in the cortege. All our colleagues were +there, but the Duc de Montpensier was the only special envoy. All the +other foreign Princes were riding with the Emperor's suite. It was +almost a female gathering, though of course all the men of the Corps +Diplomatique were there. We waited some little time in the large +drawing-room, where many presentations were made; and then had a very +handsome breakfast, people talking easily, but the Russians visibly +nervous and preoccupied. As soon as it was over we went out on the +balconies, where we remained until the cortege had passed. They brought +us tea at intervals, but I never stirred from my chair until the end. + +It was a beautiful sight as we looked down--as far as one could see, +right and left, flags, draperies, principally red and gold, green +wreaths, flowers and uniforms--the crowd of people well kept back behind +a triple row of soldiers, the middle of the street perfectly clear, +always a distant sound of bells, trumpets, and music. A salute of cannon +was to let us know when the Emperor left Petrofski, the small palace +just outside the walls where he has been all these days. As the time +drew near one felt the anxiety of the Russians, and when the first coup +sounded, all of them in the Palace and in the street crossed themselves. +As the procession drew near the tension was intense. The Governor's +Palace is about half way between the gate by which the Emperor entered +and the Kremlin. He had all that long street to follow at a foot's pace. +As soon as he entered the Kremlin another cannon would tell his people +he was safe inside. + +At last the head of the gorgeous procession appeared. It was +magnificent, but I can't begin to tell you the details. I don't even +remember all I saw, but you will read it all in the papers, as of course +all their correspondents are here. There were quantities of troops of +all descriptions, the splendid chevaliers-gardes looked very imposing +with their white tunics and silver cuirasses; both horses and men +enormous. What I liked best were the red Cossacks (even their long +lances red). They look perfectly wild and uncivilized and their little +horses equally so, prancing and plunging all the time. + +The most interesting thing to me was the deputations from all the +provinces of this vast Empire--Kirghis, Moguls, Tartars, Kalmucks, etc. +There was a magnificent chief from the Caucase, all in white, with +jewelled sword and high cap (even from where we were, so high above the +crowd, we saw the flash of the diamonds); the Khan of Khiva, and the +Emir of Bokhara, both with high fur caps, also with jewels on cap and +belt. A young fellow, cousin I think of Prince Dolgourouky, came and +stood near me, and told me as well as he could who the most important +people were. Bells going all the time (and the Moscow bells have a deep, +beautiful sound), music, the steady tramp of soldiers, and the curious, +dull noise of a great crowd of people. + +Then a break in the troops, and a long procession of gala court +carriages passed, with six horses and six runners, a man to each horse, +with all the grands-maitres and high officials of the Court, each man +covered with gold lace and embroidery, and holding his staff of office, +white with a jewel at the top. After that more troops, the Emperor's +body-guard, and then the Emperor himself. He was in full uniform, riding +quite alone in front on his little white horse which he had ridden in +the Turkish campaign. He looked quite composed and smiling, not a trace +of nervousness (perhaps a little pale), returned all the salutations +most graciously, and looked up, bowed and smiled to our balcony. A +little distance behind him rode his two sons, and close up to him on +the left rode the Duke of Edinburgh in red; any bomb thrown at the +Emperor must have killed the English Prince. + +Then followed a long suite of Princes--some of their uniforms, Austrian, +Greek, and Montenegrian standing out well. From that moment there was +almost silence on the balcony; as the Emperor disappeared again all +crossed themselves, and everyone waited for the welcome sound from the +Kremlin. + +After a long interval, always troops passing, came the Empress. She was +with her daughter, the little Grand Duchess Xenia, both in Russian +dress. The carriage was shut, a coupe, but half glass, so we saw them +perfectly, and the high head-dress (Kakoshnik) and white veil, spangled +with silver was very becoming. The carriage was very handsome, all gold +and paintings; six white horses led, and running footmen. The Empress +and her daughter were seated side by side, and on a curious sort of +_outside_ seat, on one side of the coupe, was a page, dressed in red and +yellow, a sort of cloth of gold, with high feathers in his cap. The +Empress looked grave and very pale, but she smiled and bowed all the +time. It must have been an awful day for her, for she was so far behind +the Emperor, and such masses of troops in between, that he might have +been assassinated easily, she knowing nothing of it. + +There was again a great sound of bells and music when the Empress +passed, all the people crossing themselves, but the great interest of +course was far ahead with the Emperor. A great procession of Court +carriages followed with all the Princesses, Grandes-Maitresses, etc., +and endless troops still, but no one paid much attention; every ear was +strained to hear the first sound from the Kremlin. When the cannon +boomed out the effect was indescribable. All the Russians embraced each +other, some with tears running down their cheeks, everybody shook hands +with everybody, and for a moment the emotion was contagious--I felt +rather a choke in my throat. The extraordinary reaction showed what the +tension had been. + +After rather a whirl of felicitations we went into the drawing-room for +a few minutes, had tea (of course), and I talked to some of the people +whom I had not seen before. Montpensier came up, and was very civil and +nice. He is here as a Spanish Prince. He told me he had been +frightfully nervous for the Emperor. They all knew that so many +Nihilists were about--he added, "Il etait superbe, leur Empereur, si +crane!" + +We had to wait a few moments for the carriage and got home about 5, +having been standing a long time. We were almost as long getting back to +the Embassy as we were coming. There was a dense crowd everywhere, and +the same little detachments of Cossacks galloping hard into the midst of +the people, and apparently doing no harm to anyone. + +I will finish now before going to bed--happily all our dissipations +finish early. We dined quietly with only our own Embassy and +Benckendorff, and then drove about for an hour or so looking at the +illuminations, which were not very wonderful. We met all our colleagues +doing the same thing. W. has just had his report from the detective. He +said all the Nihilists were scattered along the route to-day, but +evidently had no intention of doing anything. It seems curious they +should be allowed to remain, as of course the Russian police know them +quite as well as our man does. + +I have just had a notice that the Empress will receive me to-morrow. I +will try and write a few lines always late before going to bed, and +while the whole thing is still fresh in my memory. If this letter is +slightly incoherent it is because I have had so many interruptions. +The maids can hardly undress me, they are so anxious to tell me all they +have seen. It certainly was a magnificent sight to-day, and the fears +for the Emperor gave such a dramatic note to the whole thing. My eyes +are rather tired, looking so hard, I suppose. + + Wednesday, May 23d. + +Well, Dear, I have had my audience. It was most interesting. I started +at 11 o'clock in the gala carriage, Hubert driving me, as he wanted to +go once to the Kremlin with the carriage before the day of the +Coronation. It seems there is a slight rise in the road just as one gets +to the gate, which is also narrow. I wore the blue brocade with bunches +of cherries, the front of mousse velvet, and a light blue crepe bonnet, +neither gloves nor veil. Benckendorff and Richard, as "officer de +service," went ahead in a small carriage. Benckendorff said I must have +one of my own Embassy, and Richard thought it would amuse him to come. +W. rather demurred--was afraid we wouldn't be serious enough, but we +promised him to be absolutely dignes. Do you remember at the first +official reception at the instruction Publique he never would let you +and Pauline stand behind me--he was afraid we would make unseemly jokes, +or laugh at some of the dresses. + +Our progress to the Kremlin was slow. The carriage is heavy, goes always +at a foot's pace, and has a swinging motion which is very disagreeable. +I felt rather shy, sitting up there alone, as of course there is a great +deal of glass, so that I was much "en evidence." Everybody looked, and +the people in the street crowded close up to the carriage. We found +grand preparations when we got to the Palace--the great staircase +covered with a red cloth, and every variety of chamberlain, page, usher, +and officer on the stairs and at the door. Benckendorff and Richard +helped me out of my carriage, and Richard's impulse was to give me his +arm to go upstairs, but he was waved back imperatively, and a +magnificent gentleman in a velvet coat, all lace and embroidery, +advanced, and conducted me up the grand staircase, always a little +behind me. I passed through a hedge of uniforms and costumes. When we +came to the landing where there was a piquet of soldiers my attendant +said--"La France," and they presented arms. + +At the top of the staircase, at the door of the first of a long enfilade +of salons, I was handed over, with a very low bow, from my first +gentleman to another of the same description, equally all gold lace, and +embroidery; and so I passed through all the rooms, always meeting a new +chamberlain in each one. The rooms are large and high, with vaulted +roofs like a cathedral, little or no furniture (I believe the Russian +Court never sits down except at meals). We made a halt in one of the +salons, where we found several maids of honour of the Empress, who were +presented to me. They were all dressed much alike in long, light +dresses, and wore their badge--the Empress's chiffre in diamonds on a +blue ribbon. While I was talking to them a procession of diplomats and +special envoys passed through the room. They had just been received by +the Empress. + +Presently appeared Prince Galitzin--Grand Maitre des Ceremonies, attired +in red velvet and lace, and embroidery, who said, "Sa Majeste sera +bientot prete." I continued my progress with the same ceremonial, passed +through the salle du trone, which is handsome, white and gold; and came +to a standstill in the next salon, evidently the ante-chamber of the +room where I was to be received, as the two colossal negroes who always +accompany the Emperor and Empress were standing at the door. They were +dressed in a sort of Asiatic costume, cashmeres, turbans, scimitars, +etc. I was received by the Princess Kotchoubey and Count Pahlen, Arch +Grand Maitre des Ceremonies. The Princess K. is the mother of Princess +Lise Troubetzkoi (whom you will remember in Paris as having a salon the +first days of the Republic where political men of all opinions +assembled--Thiers was her great friend). She was a little old lady, +dressed entirely in white, with a jewel low on her forehead. Count +Pahlen was dressed in blue velvet and embroidery, and carried his staff +of office, white, with a large sapphire on the top. + +We talked a few minutes, when apparently there came a signal from the +Empress. The doors flew open, and the Princess advanced to the +threshold, making a beautiful curtsey (I am sure mine was not half so +good), she seemed to go straight down to the ground, said--"J'ai +l'honneur d'annoncer l'Ambassadrice de France." She then withdrew to one +side--I made a curtsey at the door, which was instantly shut, another, a +little farther on (the regulation is 3), but hadn't time for my third, +as the Empress, who was standing in the middle of the room, advanced a +few steps, shook hands and begged me to sit down. I hadn't seen her for +some years, since she came to Paris with her husband, then Grand Duke +Heritier (his father was still alive), and I didn't find her changed. +She recalls the Princess of Wales, but is not so tall; has beautiful +dark eyes, and a very gracious manner. She was dressed almost as I was, +but in a different color, yellow brocade with bunches of plums, splendid +lace in front, and a beautiful pearl necklace, three rows of large +stones (my one row of fairly large ones was nowhere). I think I stayed +about 20 minutes. + +We talked easily enough. She said the long day yesterday had been very +fatiguing, the going at a foot's pace all that long distance with the +peculiar swinging motion of the heavy gala carriage had tired her very +much; also the constant bowing right and left, and the quantities of +flags and draperies waving under her eyes. She didn't say anything about +being nervous, so of course I didn't. She gave me the impression of +having extraordinary self-control. I asked her what the little Grand +Duchess thought of it all. She said that she really didn't know--that +she didn't speak, but looked at everything and bowed to all the people +exactly as she did. + +She said the day of the sacre would be very long and tiring, +particularly beginning so early in the morning; that she was very +matinale, quite accustomed to getting up early--was I? "Fairly--but I +hadn't often been up and dressed in full dress and diamonds at seven in +the morning." "You would prefer a ceremony by candle-light." "I think we +should all look better at 9 o'clock in the evening." She laughed, and +then we talked a little; Paris, chiffons, etc. She said some of her +dresses had come from Philippe. We talked a little about Moscow and the +Kremlin. She asked me what I had seen. When I spoke of the church and +the tribunes for the Corps Diplomatique with _no_ seats, and a very long +ceremony, she was quite indifferent; evidently didn't think it was of +the slightest consequence whether we were tired or not; and I don't +suppose it is. + +When she congedied me the door flew open (she evidently had a bell under +her chair which she touched with her feet); she shook hands, and walked +immediately to a door at the other end of the room; so I didn't have to +back out all the way. Princess Kotchoubey and Count Pahlen were waiting +for me. The Princess said, "Sa Majeste vous a garde bien longtemps, +Madame l'Ambassadrice. J'espere que vous avez ete contente." Pahlen also +made me a polite phrase. They both accompanied me across the room, and +then the door opened, and another chamberlain took possession of me. +Just as we got to the door the Princess was saying something about her +daughter "devenue absolument une Parisienne," when it opened; she +stopped short in the middle of her phrase, and made me a little +curtsey--her function was over once I passed into the other room. It was +too funny. + +I was conducted through all the rooms and down the great staircase with +the same ceremony. I found Richard waiting in one of the big rooms, with +the "Dames du portrait," but this time he didn't venture to offer his +arm to the Ambassadress, and followed with Benckendorff at a respectful +distance. + +I found my carriage surrounded by an admiring crowd. The horses are +handsome and enormous, particularly here where the race is small, also +the French gala liveries are unlike anything else. Hubert, my own +coachman, sits up so straight and pompous on his box, and looks so +correct I hardly know him. The movement of the gala carriage is +something awful, makes me really ill. + + May 23d, 10 o'clock. + +We have had a quiet evening--some of the gentlemen have gone off to hear +the famous Bohemiennes in one of the public gardens. They have been +leaving cards all day on the special envoys, Princes, etc. W. and +Pontecoulant are having a conference, and I have got into my tea-gown, +and am reading a little, writing a little, and being generally lazy. W. +and I also did a round of visits this afternoon. + +As naturally none of our servants know either a word of Russian, or the +streets of Moscow, we took with us the little polygot youth from the +Consulate, who knows equally well French, Russian, and German. We gave +him our list, and he went ahead in a drosky. + +We found no one but the Princess Obolenski, who spoke at once about the +Emperor's entree; said no one could imagine the relief it was to all of +them to know that he was actually safe in the Kremlin. They had +evidently all dreaded that day, and of course notwithstanding all the +precautions a bomb _could_ have been thrown. The thrower, par exemple, +would have been torn to pieces by the crowd; but what makes the strength +of the Nihilists is that they all count their lives as nothing in what +they consider the great cause. + +How hideous the life of the Emperor and the Empress must be. They say +they find letters on their tables, in their carriages, coming from no +one knows where, telling them of all the horrors in store for them and +their children. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Ambassade de France, a Moscou#, + #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#, + Thursday, 24 Mai, 1883. + +I am having a quiet morning. We have no particular function to-day. +Madame Jaures is coming to get me after breakfast, and we are going to +do a little sightseeing. The first thing I hear in the morning always is +Pontecoulant's voice in the court talking to Leroy and Hubert, and +examining the horses. The pair we had in the gala carriage yesterday +went beautifully. Hubert was rather nervous, as there is a steep little +bit just as one passes through the gates of the Kremlin--it is also +narrow, and those big, unwieldy carriages are not easily handled. The +pavement is so rough that I was actually a little sick yesterday after I +came in. + +I was called off by a visit from Prince Orloff (Russian Ambassador in +France). He comes almost every day, and is much interested in all our +doings--said the carriage and general style of everything was much +admired yesterday. About two Madame Jaures came, and we started off +sight-seeing. The admiral, Jaures, and one or two of the young men met +us at the Kremlin, and we went over the two palaces--new and old. The +old one is most curious; small, dark, low rooms, vaulted ceilings, all +most elaborately ornamented in Byzantine style; a small steep, twisting +staircase; large porcelain stoves, and absolutely uncomfortable. We saw +the dining-room where the Emperor and Empress will dine in state the day +of the Coronation. The new palace is quite different--high, light, large +rooms, white, which must look beautiful at night lighted by thousands of +wax candles. In the great ballroom the two Throne chairs are on a gold +dais with great curtains of purple velvet and ermine--very royal +looking. + +(I wonder if the sight of all this splendour will destroy my mental +equilibrium--I assure you I felt rather like a queen myself yesterday, +seated up alone in the great gala carriage, with everybody bowing and +gaping.) There is a splendid view over the Kremlin, the river and the +town from all the palace windows. We went again to the church of the +Assomption, where we found Count Pahlen superintending. He showed us +some of the famous paintings--among others a Madonna with a _black_ +face, a splendid diamond necklace, and large sapphires and emeralds +disposed about her person. There are jewels about everywhere; on +pictures, brackets, etc. Pahlen told me, when I was noticing them, that +the Russian Court was famous for coloured stones, particularly emeralds +and sapphires--told me to notice the Grand Duchess Constantine's +emeralds, and the Empress's sapphires. I will, if ever I get time to go +into details, but everything is on such an enormous scale here. + +He also asked me if I was accustomed to _standing_ three or four hours, +and if not he would suggest a _pliant_"dissimule sous les plis de la +traine," and showed me with pride the rails, covered with red velvet, in +our tribune, which he had had put there so we should be comfortable! It +will really be an awful day, particularly as we have to begin it so +early, but I suppose we shan't die of it. + +I came back about 4, changed my dress for something more elegant (the +blue silk with long blue redingote and white lace), and started off +again in the d'Orsay for some visits (the little boy in the drosky going +in front). I found the Princess Radziwill in two small rooms (she +received me in her bedroom), all she could find for herself and her +husband in Moscow--and that at an awful price (and she is Russian born). +I also found Countess Pahlen, wife of the Grand Master, who was very +smiling, and suggested that we should have an evening reception, which +would be much appreciated. Of course we shall be delighted, and had even +thought of a ball, but all those things had been settled in Russia +before we left Paris. The Russian Court wished to have _one_ ball only, +as the Coronation functions were numerous and fatiguing, and that is to +be at General Schweinitz's (Doyen of the Corps Diplomatique). + +After leaving Countess Pahlen I went again to the Kremlin, the +d'Orsay always exciting much attention. I had the greatest difficulty in +finding out the Duchesse d'Edimbourg, for whom I had to write myself +down, and could find no servant who spoke either German, French, or +English. The crowd and confusion was something awful; apparently the +whole of Moscow was going wherever I was--Ambassadors, Generals, +Chamberlains, maids-of-honour, servants with tea, crowding in all the +corridors. You never saw such a sight, and just as many more in the +court-yards--carriages, soldiers, work-people, carpenters, bales of +stuffs, and planks for stands, and all in that beautiful cadre--the old +gray walls looked so soft, and the marvellous effects of colour +everywhere. I was well shaken up, such a pavement. I met the Duc +de Montpensier at every turn, sight-seeing too. We had a quiet dinner, +the personnel only with Benckendorff. The gentlemen had been going all +around too all the afternoon leaving cards. They all say the pavement +is most trying. + +W. and Pontecoulant have come in late as usual for a last little talk. I +told them what Countess Pahlen had said about an evening reception. W. +had had the same idea. I think the house is large enough--the ballroom +ought to light well, all white with yellow satin furniture. We must have +a talk with Lhermite about flowers; he says there are none here, his +come from Paris. + + Friday, 25th. + +The men of the Embassy went off early, as they had no end of audiences +with all the Grand Dukes; uncles and brothers of the Emperor. I walked +about a little with Adelaide, but I didn't find that very pleasant. It +is curious I never see a lady of any kind walking, and we always attract +attention. It is very warm, the sun really powerful. I breakfasted alone +in the big dining-room, an elaborate meal, one maitre d'hotel and two +tall footmen waiting upon me--I was rather sorry I hadn't asked for tea +and cold chicken in my dressing-room. + +At 3.30 the gentlemen all reappeared, put on their Austrian decorations, +and we started for the reception of the Arch Duke and Arch Duchess +Albert of Austria. We found quantities of people, as all the Corps +Diplomatique had been convoked. W. and I went as usual in the d'Orsay. I +wore my creme voile with lace and embroidery, straw bonnet with creme +feathers, lined with dark blue velvet. We waited some little time in a +large hall or anteroom where was Count Wolkenstein, Austrian Ambassador, +who presented all the suite of the Arch Duke. Then appeared the Arch +Duke alone--said his wife was coming in a few moments. We had known him +in Paris--he had dined with us at the Quai d'Orsay when W. was Foreign +Minister, our Exhibition year. He is a tall, distinguished looking man. +It was when he was dining at the Elysee one night with Marechal MacMahon +that such a funny contre-temps occurred. Their dinners were always very +good and soignes, but evidently they had not thought about the names of +the dishes, and when we were well on with the dinner we suddenly +realized that something was wrong. My neighbour said to me "Look at your +menu," and what did I see--"Glace a la Magenta"--"Gateau Solferino," and +I forget the third thing--all battles where the Austrians had been +beaten. I spoke to one of the household about it afterwards who said +"J'ai froid dans le dos en pensant a ce que le Marechal me dira." It +seems that when he was angry the Marechal didn't mince matters, and used +most _emphatic_ expressions. You can imagine how carefully we studied +the menu of our dinner which came two days after--"Glace a la Regence," +"Gateau Moka," etc., nothing compromising. + +While the Arch Duke was talking there was suddenly a move, and he went +to meet the Arch Duchess who came in, crossed the room quickly, and +asked us to follow. We did, into a smaller room, W. and I alone. She is +very handsome, younger than he is, tall and slight, dressed in a black +dress with a great deal of lace, a very long train, a handsome pearl +necklace, and a high comb of diamonds. She said she would like to make a +stay in Paris. After they had congedied us W. asked if he might present +the rest of the Mission, so I returned to the large salon and saw +various people to talk to, including Count Apponyi, whom I had known in +Paris, where his father was Ambassador for years. + +We dined at home and went in the evening to a reception at M. de +Giers'--Foreign Minister. The rooms were not large, and there were a +great many people, I should think more foreigners and diplomatists than +Russians. Princess Kotchoubey and Countess Pahlen did the honours. +Quantities of people were presented to me--I shall never remember their +names or their faces. I wore fraise-ecrase velvet, the front covered +with white "point a l'aiguille." General Wolseley, who is here with the +Duke of Edinburgh, was presented. He is not at all the real British +type, small and dark, but very bright eyes. I also had quite a talk with +my Dutch friend Schimmelpenninck, who assured me my toilettes were tres +reussies, particularly the white one, this afternoon. I had quite a talk +too with the Hunts, who are very nice. Both are tall and fine-looking, +she always very well dressed. The U.S. Mission is very distinguished--they +have Mr. and Mrs. Mackay with them, both very natural and quiet; she of +course has splendid jewels (they tell me her sapphires are beautiful), +but she wears them quite simply, without any ostentation. There is also +Admiral Baldwin, who has his ship at Cronstadt, and two charming young +aides-de-camp, Rogers and Paul. + + + _To H. L. K._ + Saturday, May 26, 1883. + +Well, Dear, I am just alive, but nothing more, having performed 5 Grand +Duchesses. The gentlemen all went off in full uniform at 11 to begin +their audiences. I followed later alone (they always go en bande) with +Richard going in the small carriage in front as officier de service +(which amuses us both perfectly). I wore the white soft silk with +Valenciennes that you liked, and the flower hat. Benckendorff +complimented me on my toilette. It was a long affair getting to our +different Princesses. They are all lodged in the Kremlin, and the +various palaces connect with all sorts of passages and staircases, but +the corridors are narrow and the block something awful. My first +audience was with the Grand Duchess Michel. Her husband is an uncle of +the Emperor, and was for a long time Governor of the Caucasus. When we +finally got to the door of the apartments I was received by 2 +Chamberlains (all gold and embroidery), who never left me until they +deposited me in the carriage at 5 o'clock--I had started at 1.30. The +ceremonial was always exactly the same, one or two ladies-in-waiting +were in the room communicating with the one in which the Grand +Duchess was waiting. They announced "L'Ambassadrice de France," I got +through as many of my three regulation curtseys as I could--I never +really had time to make the third, as they all advanced a few steps and +shook hands. The Grand Duchess Michel is a Baden Princess, tall, slight, +very intelligent, simply dressed in black velvet, and of course a pearl +necklace. She spoke to me in English, French, and German, but the +conversation was mostly in French. She seemed well up in French +literature, and asked me what I thought of Zola's "L'Assommoir," was +really surprised when I said I hadn't read it, nor in fact scarcely +anything he wrote. She considered it a marvel, and couldn't understand +any French woman not reading every word that came from "un des plus +puissants cerveaux du siecle." She knew too all the pieces de theatre, +and when I expressed surprise that she had had time to read so much, +said her life in the Caucasus was so lonely--no society of any kind, +and no resources outside of her own palace. I should think she was a +maitresse femme. + +After leaving her I was taken in hand again by my two chamberlains, and +walked some distance across one or two courts, always meeting more +chamberlains escorting colleagues, principally men, all in uniform and +orders, doing the same thing, and trying to get on as fast as they +could. My next visit was to the Grand Duchess Constantine. When we got +to the anteroom and small salon we found them full of gentlemen, who +proved to be our Mission, who had arrived a few minutes before. That +made a slight change of programme, as the Grand Duke decided to receive +W. and me together with the Duchess--accordingly we were received first, +alone, in a small room. The Grand Duke was standing close to the door; +the Grand Duchess in the centre of the room. He is a sailor, looks very +intelligent. She has been very handsome, carries herself beautifully, +and has a splendid figure. He was in uniform--she in red velvet (she +_didn't_ have on her emeralds--I suppose we shall see them all +to-morrow). They both talked very easily about all sorts of things; +Greece of course and the Schuylers, of whom she spoke very warmly. Her +daughter is the Queen of Greece--I hope we shall see her, as I have +heard Gert talk so much about her. The Grand Duchess said she was tired +already, and the Ceremonies haven't begun yet. She had received +yesterday 100 ladies of Moscow. They came in groups of 10, and she had +to find something to say to each one. + +As soon as the audience was over W. asked permission, as usual, to +present the rest of the Mission. I remained in the outer salon talking +to the ladies-in-waiting. The apartment is high, with a splendid view +over Moscow. They pointed me out several churches and curious +roofs--were much interested in all my visits and my clothes, supposed I +had quantities of trunks. + +After that I departed again alone, and saw the Grand Duchess Catherine, +who was very amiable, but kept me a few minutes only, as she had so many +people to receive. Then I took another long walk, and up several flights +of narrow, turning stairs (the chamberlains in front and Richard behind) +to the Duchesse d'Oldenburg. The Belgian Mission was being received, so +I waited in the outer salon, and again W. and the gentlemen arrived, and +he and I were received together. Evidently they like it better when we +can go together, as it saves time for them--and if we are tired, think +what they must be. I went off again alone, and was received by the Grand +Duchess Wladimir, who is charming--a German Princess. She is young, a +pretty figure, very well dressed in white. She looked rather delicate, +having just got over a rather bad attack of measles. She dreads the +fatigue very much to-morrow, and had asked the Empress if she might have +a folding-chair, a pliant of some kind, but her "demande n'a pas ete +accueillie favorablement. L'Imperatrice elle-meme sera debout tout le +temps. Il faudrait absolument que nous fassions comme elle." I didn't +mention my pliant, as I am quite sure no one will notice to-morrow +anything _I_ do. + +That finished my audience, and I had been standing or walking since I +left the Embassy, so I was glad to find the carriage, which was by no +means easy. There were quantities at the Kremlin, and as we never by any +chance came out at the same door by which we went in, and the coachman +was told to follow, he naturally had some difficulty in getting it. Also +it is raining hard, which complicates matters. There are carpets down to +the doors, but so many people have passed over them that they are just +as wet and muddy as the streets. We met all the rest of the Mission at +the Embassy door, and then there was a general detente, the men all +calling for their servants to get them out of their uniforms, and to +bring beer and cigars. + +W. came in to tea. He looked really done up--he had been at it steadily +since 12. There are so many Princes and Grand Dukes without any wives. I +am writing in bits, but will finish as usual the last thing. We have had +a small dinner--the other French Embassy (permanent), Lagrene, Consul, +and Orloff. Benckendorff of course. They all went away early, as our day +to-morrow is an awful one. + +It is pouring still, and we are rather melancholy at the thought of our +gala carriages, and blue and silver liveries in a heavy rain. Just +before dinner I had a visit from Philippe, and he made various essais +with my diadem and feathers. He is to be here at six to-morrow morning +to coiffer me. He also requested that he might see my dress so as to +make his coiffure "harmoniser avec l'ensemble." I wanted to see it too, +so as to be sure that everything was right, and the flowers well sewn +on. It is now reposing on one of the big arm-chairs in the +dressing-room, covered up with a sheet. + +My eyes are shutting of themselves, so I will stop. Please send all my +letters on to America, as I never can write _two_ accounts of our life +here. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Ambassade de France a Moscou#, + #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#, + Dimanche, 27 Mai, 1883. + +I am perfectly exhausted, Dear, after the most beautiful, bewildering, +exhausting day I have ever gone through. We got home at 4.30. I rested a +little, had tea as usual in my boudoir with W. and Richard, and will +write as much as I can while I am still under the impression of all I +have seen. + +I was up at 5.30, as we had to leave here at 7. Philippe was very +punctual--put on diadem and feathers very well. Happily it was all blue, +rather dark (as my dress too was blue), and he remarked pleasantly, to +put me at my ease I think, and make me feel as comfortable as I could at +that hour of the morning, "Le bleu c'est le fard de Madame." He couldn't +understand that I wouldn't let him maquiller my face--said all the +Princesses were painted--but I really couldn't go that. + +When I appeared in the drawing-room, the men of the Embassy were very +complimentary about my dress. We went in our three carriages (I had the +white moire cloak, trimmed with dark feathers over me), W. and I and +Pontecoulant in the first gala carriage driven by Leroy (I wish you +could have seen him, as much taken up with _his dress_ as I was with +mine). He stood giving directions to a quantity of understrappers, but +never touching harness, nor even whip, until we appeared, then got on +his box as we got into the carriage, settled himself in a fine pose, and +we started. + +The second gala carriage driven by Hubert (who looked very well) came +next, and then the d'Orsay. It really was a very pretty cortege, and we +were much looked at and admired, as we drove very slowly, and jolting +very much, to the German Embassy. All our colleagues came up about the +same time. Some of the gala carriages were good, the Austrian, but ours +out and out the best. No one else had three. + +We assembled in one of the large rooms of the palace, and then walked +through numerous rooms, galleries, and finally through an open court, +entirely covered with a red carpet, and lined with soldiers and +officers--every description of uniform. The Chevalier-Gardes, +magnificent in their white tunics, silver cuirasses and helmets. +Happily it was fine--I don't know what we should have done in the rain, +and also so early in the morning the sun was not genant (as it was later +in the day). The long procession, the men in uniform and decorations; +the women in full dress, feathers and diadems, was most effective. + +I left my cloak in the carriage, and didn't feel chilly, but some of the +women were uncomfortable, and had little lace and fur tippets. We filed +into the church (which is small), and into the Diplomatic Tribune, and +settled ourselves quite easily--there was plenty of room. The effect +inside was dazzling: tapers, flowers, pictures, jewels, quantities of +women already seated, all in the Kakoshnik, and a general impression of +red and gold in their costumes. All the Empress's ladies wear red velvet +trains, embroidered in gold. People seemed to be coming in all the time. +Deputations from the provinces, officials of Moscow, officers, +chamberlains, a moving mass of colour. The costume of the Popes was +gorgeous--cloth of gold with very high jewelled mitres. + +We waited some time before the ceremony began, but there was so much to +see that we didn't mind, and from time to time one of the officials came +and stood with us a little, explaining who all the people were. The +whole church was hung with red, and red carpets everywhere. Just in the +middle there was a high estrade, covered with red velvet, and a great +gold baldaquin with Imperial eagles embroidered on it. It was all +surrounded by a gold balustrade, and on it were the two thrones. A +little lower on the same estrade were the places of the Princes of the +family, and the Foreign Princes. + +A little before 9 the Imperial family began to arrive. Almost all the +Grand Duchesses in trains of drap d'argent, bordered with sable, and +magnificent jewels. Then there was a great sound of trumpets, and +cheering outside (those curious, suppressed Russian cheers), and they +told us the Emperor and Empress were coming. They were preceded by an +officer of the Chevalier-Gardes, with sabre-a-nu. The Emperor was in +full uniform, with the blue ribbon of St. Andre. The Empress quite +simple in white and silver, the Imperial eagles embroidered on the +front of her dress; no diadem, no veil, nor jewels; her train carried by +4 pages, her hair quite simply done--she looked so young, quite like a +school-girl. Then followed a glittering suite of Princes, officers, +etc. + +The service was very long, the chanting quite fine; the men have +beautiful, deep voices--I cared less for the intoning, they all end on +such a peculiar high note. I didn't like the looks of the Popes +either--the long beards worried me. Of course the real interest was when +the Emperor took the crown from the hands of the Pope (kneeling before +him) and put it on his own head. He looked a magnificent figure, +towering over everybody, as he stood there in his Imperial robes, cloth +of gold lined with ermine, and a splendid jewelled collar. The crown +looked high and heavy--made entirely of jewels. + +His two brothers, Grand Dukes Wladimir and Alexis, put on his robes. The +Grand Duke Wladimir always stands close behind his brother. He has a +stern, keen face. He would be the Regent if anything should happen to +the Emperor, and I think his would be an iron rule. + +As soon as the Emperor was crowned the Empress left her seat, came to +the middle of the platform, made a deep curtsey to the Emperor, and +knelt. Her court ladies then gathered around her, and put on the +Imperial mantle, also in cloth of gold lined with ermine, and the same +jewelled collar like the Emperor's. When she was dressed, the Emperor, +stooping low over her, put on her crown, a small one made entirely in +diamonds, raised her and kissed her. As she stood a moment she almost +staggered back under the weight of the mantle--the 4 pages could hardly +hold it. + +Then the long procession of Princes and Princesses left their seats on +the estrade, and passed before the Sovereigns. First came his two +brothers, Wladimir and Alexis. They kissed the Emperor, then bent low +before the Empress, kissing her hand. She kissed them each on the +forehead. Next came the two young Princes, in uniform like their father, +wearing also the blue ribbon of St. Andre, and the little Grand Duchess +(aged 10) in a short white dress, but the Kakoshnik. + +It was a pretty sight to see the children bowing and curtseying low to +their parents. Some of the ladies' curtseys were wonderful--the Arch +Duchess Charles Louis extraordinarily graceful (I wonder how I ever +shall get through mine--I am certainly much less souple than these +ladies). When they had all passed the Emperor went alone into the chapel +to communier, and receive the sacred oil--the Empress remained kneeling +outside. + +[Illustration: The Emperor Crowning the Empress Church de l'Assomption] + +We had various incidents in our tribune--one or two ladies fainted, but +couldn't get out, they had to be propped up against the rail, and +brought round with fans, salts, etc. We stood for three hours and a +half. + +The Emperor and Empress left the church with the same ceremony (we all +following), and then there was a curious function. Under a dais, still +in their court robes, their trains carried by six or eight officers, +they walked around the enceinte, going into three or four churches to +make their devotions, all of us and all the other Princes following, all +their suites, and an accompaniment of bells, cannon, music, and cheers. +(I forgot to say that when the Emperor put his crown on his head in the +church, the cannon announced to his people that their sovereign was +crowned.) + +We had a few drops of rain, then the sun came out strong, and I was +rather wretched--however General Pittie came to my rescue, and shaded me +with his hat (all the men were bareheaded). There were tribunes all +along the route for the people who hadn't been able to get into the +church; in one of them all the younger members of the Embassies, as of +course _all_ couldn't be got inside. These two were all gold and red, +filled with women, mostly in white, and men in uniform. You can't +imagine what a gorgeous sight it was, and the crowd below packed tight, +all gaping at the spectacle. + +We didn't dirty our dresses (the trains of course we carried in our +arms), I don't know why, as the red carpet was decidedly damp and +muddyish in places. We finally arrived at the Vieux Palais, where we +were to breakfast, and the Emperor and Empress were also to have a +little respite before dining in state with their people. + +We had a handsome breakfast, quantities of gold and silver plate, and +many Russian dishes. I didn't much like the looks of the soup, which was +clear, but had various things floating about on it--uncooked fish, +little black balls, which I thought might be caviar, which I don't ever +like; and I was rather wondering what I should eat (I was very hungry), +when my neighbor, Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, suggested I should +share his meal. He didn't like Russian cookery either, so he had +intrigued with a friendly official, who was going to bring him a cold +chicken and a bottle of good red wine. I accepted joyfully, and we had a +very good breakfast. + +I think we were about three-quarters of an hour at table, and it was +very pleasant to sit down after those hours of standing. When the +breakfast was over, a little after two, we were conducted to the +Imperial dining-room, a square, low room in the old Kremlin with a +vaulted ceiling, and heavy Byzantine decorations; quantities of +paintings on a gold ground, bright coloured frescoes, most elaborate. +There were great buffets and tables covered with splendid gold and +silver plates, flagons, vases, etc. At the end of the room was a square, +raised platform covered with red, and a splendid dais, all purple +velvet, ermine, and gold embroidery where the Imperial couple were to +dine with their faithful subjects. + +We strangers were merely admitted for a few minutes to see the beginning +of the meal, and then we retired, and the Emperor remained alone with +his people. Of course officers and officials of all descriptions were +standing close round the platform. There was a large table to the +left as we came in, where almost all the Russians were already +assembled--all the women in the national dress, high Kakoshnik, long +white lace spangled veil, and a sort of loose hanging sleeve which was +very effective. The ensemble was striking. + +[Illustration: Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes] + +Presently we heard a sound of music and trumpets, which told us the +Royalties were approaching, and as they came near we heard the familiar +strains of the Polonaise from Glinka's opera "La Vie pour le Czar," +which is always played when the Emperor and Empress appear. They came +with the usual escort of officers and chamberlains, smiling and bowing +graciously to all of us. They seated themselves (always in their cloth +of gold mantles, and crowns on their heads) on the two throne chairs; a +small table was placed in front of them, and then the dinner began. + +The soupiere was preceded by a chamberlain in gold lace; held by a +Master of Ceremonies, and flanked on each side by a gigantic +Chevalier-garde, sabre-a-nu. There was always a collection of officials, +chamberlains, pages, etc., bringing up the rear of the cortege, so that +at each entree a little procession appeared. We saw three dishes brought +in with the same ceremony--the fish was so large on a large silver dish +that _two_ Masters of Ceremonies held that. + +It was really a wonderful sight, like a picture in some old history of +the Moyen Age. As soon as the Sovereigns had taken their places on the +thrones all the Russians at their table sat down too. We couldn't, +because we had nothing to sit upon, so we remained standing at the end +of the room, facing the estrade. They told us that when the Emperor +raised his glass and asked for wine that was the signal for us to +retire; and that it would be after the roast. (All our instructions were +most carefully given to us by Benckendorff, who felt his +responsibility.) Think what his position would have been if any member +of _his_ Embassy had made a "gaffe." Accordingly as soon as the roast +made its appearance all our eyes were riveted upon the Emperor. He +raised his glass slowly (very high) to give us time. General Schweinitz, +as Doyen, stepped well forward, and made a very low bow. We all bowed +and curtseyed low (my knees are becoming more supple) and got ourselves +out backwards. It wasn't very difficult, as we had our trains over our +arms. + +I don't think we shall see anything more curious than that state +banquet. I certainly shall never see again a soup tureen guarded by +soldiers with drawn swords. + + 10 o'clock. + +We dined quietly, everyone giving his experiences--of course the younger +members of the Embassy, who had no places in the church, had a better +impression of the ensemble than we had. They said the excitement +and emotion of the crowd in the square before the church was +extraordinary. All crossed themselves, and many cried, when the cannon +told them that the Emperor was crowned. They seem to be an emotional, +superstitious race. They also said the procession around the courts, +when the Emperor and Empress were going to the various churches, was +wonderful--a moving mass of feathers, jewels, banners, bright helmets, +and cuirasses, all glittering in the sun. + +After dinner we drove about a little, seeing the illuminations, but the +crowd was so dense we could hardly move, though the soldiers did all +they could, and battered the people about. Then it began to rain a +little, so I begged to come home. It is raining quite hard now--I +hear it on the marquise. Heavens how tired I am. + +Of course I can't write half of what I have seen, but the papers will +keep you quite au courant. Some of the newspaper correspondents were in +the church, and of course plenty in the tribunes outside. Our carriages +certainly made a great effect, and we were cheered various times on our +way home. + +Madame Hubert talks so much she can hardly get me my things. She is as +much pleased with her husband's appearance as I am with mine. What an +experience for them, when you think that she had never been out of +Villers-Cotterets and Bourneville when she came to us, and Paris seemed +a Paradise. + + #Ambassade de France a Moscou#, + #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#, + Monday, May 28th, 1883. + +We were all again in Court dress at 11 this morning to go to the Palace +and present our felicitations to the Imperial couple. I wore the same +blue dress, as my pink one goes on to-night for the "courtag" at the +Palace. It seems there was some misunderstanding about our being +received this morning, so some of our colleagues had come, and gone, +rather put out at the vagueness of the instructions. We decided to +remain, as we had arrived there in all our finery, particularly as one +of the chamberlains told us it would be most interesting. Deputations +from the provinces were to present addresses of felicitation and we +would see all the national costumes. + +As we had some time to wait, the Greek chamberlain suggested that we +should take advantage of that opportunity to be presented to the Queen +of Greece. He thought he could arrange it, so he went off to her +rooms, and presently reappeared with the maid of honour, Mlle. +Colocotroni (a friend of Gertrude's), and we were taken at once to the +Queen, who was standing in a small salon overlooking the river. She is +young and handsome, fair, stoutish, but tall enough to carry it off +well, and was chatty and sympathetic--said she supposed I was quite +tired after yesterday, that it was certainly very trying; that the +person who was the least tired was the Empress. She had met her in one +of the corridors in the interval between the ceremony at the church, or +rather the churches (as she went to three after leaving the Assomption). +She had taken off her Imperial mantle and crown, and was going to see +one of her numerous relations before beginning again. + +As soon as our audience was over we returned to the large audience hall, +where we found Benckendorff tearing his hair, in a wild state, because +we were late--all our colleagues had taken their places. However we were +in time, and ranged ourselves, the ladies all together on the right, the +men opposite. I was the Doyenne, and stood at the head of the column (as +neither Lady Thornton nor Mdme. Schweinitz was there). All about the +room were groups of people from the provinces waiting their turn, but +there was such a crowd of uniforms and costumes that one could hardly +distinguish anything. + +Presently the Court appeared--the Emperor always in uniform, the Empress +in a very handsome train, blue velvet, embroidered in gold, and a +splendid tiara, necklace and front of sapphires. They had the usual +train of Princes, chamberlains, aides-de-camp, etc. As soon as they had +taken their places on the platform all the Missions (men) advanced +according to their rank. The Ambassador made a few steps forward, said a +few words of felicitation to the Emperor (the Mission remaining at a +respectful distance behind), then made a low bow, and all retired a +reculons. + +The Austrian Embassy looked very well--the Hungarian uniforms are so +handsome. The Americans also very well, though they have no uniform, +wear ordinary black evening clothes. The Admiral and his two +aides-de-camp of course wore theirs, but it is so quiet, dark blue with +little lace, and no orders, that one would hardly have remarked it +except for the epaulettes and aiguillettes. + +As soon as all the men of the Corps Diplomatique had passed the Empress +left her place and came to us. Her train was carried by 4 pages, a high +official, red velvet and gold lace, carrying the extreme end. She passed +down the line of ladies, saying something to each one. I heard her speak +three languages--English, French, and German--quite easily. + +We waited until the Court retired, and then there was the usual stampede +for the carriages. I have not been out again this afternoon. We start +for our Court ball at 8.45, and of course dine early. I was interrupted +by Philippe, who came to coiffer me, having as usual stopped in the +lingerie to inspect my dress, the pink one this time. He tells me he +began to dress some of the heads for to-night at 12 this morning. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Ambassade de France a Moscou#, + #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#, + Mardi, 29 Mai, 1883. + +I will begin my letter while I am waiting to go with some of the +gentlemen and Benckendorff to see the preparations for the great +people's fete. I couldn't write last night, I was so tired out. Two +court dresses and functions, and hours of standing is a good deal for +one day. We started early, at a quarter to 9. We assembled in the same +room in the old Kremlin where the Imperial couple had dined this +afternoon. Almost all our colleagues and some of the swell Russians were +already there, and everyone moved about, talking and looking until the +welcome strains of the march told us the Emperor and Empress were +coming. + +One of the chamberlains showed me some of the most curious old bowls and +flagons. The work is rather rough, and the stones enormous--not well +cut--but the effect is good, half barbaric. The Court appeared always +with the same brilliant suite--the Empress looked charming in a pink +velvet train, embroidered in silver. All the Grand Duchesses in drap +d'argent, bordered with beautiful black sable. + +As soon as the Court arrived the polonaise began; the Emperor making the +first with Queen of Greece, the Empress with Schweinitz. It was a +charming sight. All the trains were etalees their full length. The +gentleman takes his partner's hand, holding it very high, and they +make a stately progress through the rooms. I didn't dance the first one. +We had a very good view of the whole thing. It was a beautiful +sight--the men all in uniform, with orders, and broad ribbons; and the +women with their trains down the full length. The Russian trains, of +white and silver bordered with fur, made a great effect. + +The Emperor danced (which is a facon de parler only, as one walked +through the rooms) with the Queen of Greece, Arch Duchess Charles Louis, +and the Ambassadrices Lady Thornton, Mdme. Jaures, Countess Dudzeele, +and me--the Empress with the 6 Ambassadors. I danced the second +polonaise with the Grand Duke Wladimir, who is handsome and spirited +looking. He told me who many of the people were. In one of the rooms +were all the Russian women, not in costume, but in ordinary ball dress, +all, however, wearing the Kakoshnik studded with jewels, and most +becoming it was. + +I was much interested (before my turn came) to see how the ladies got +back to their places after having been deposited by the Emperor in the +middle of the room. He doesn't conduct his partner back as all the +others do. He goes back to his own place, the lady makes a curtsey, +and gets back to hers across the room backwards as well as she can. They +seemed to get through all right. I rather enjoyed my polonaise with the +Emperor. He showed me quantities of people--a splendid man from some +part of Asia dressed in white, with jewels, coloured stones mostly, all +down the front of his coat, and pistols in his belt with jewelled hilts. +Also the Khan of Khiva, with all the front of his high fur cap covered +with jewels, also his belt, which seemed made entirely of diamonds +and rubies. + +The music was always the march from Glinka's opera; each band in turn +taking it up as the cortege passed through the rooms. The last Polonaise +finished about 11.30, and the Court immediately retired. We had no +refreshments of any kind, and made the same rush for the carriages. + +Our rentree to the Embassy is most amusing--the whole Mission precedes +us, and when we arrive we find them ranged in a semicircle at the foot +of the staircase, waiting to receive us. Richard says he never +understood the gulf that separates an Ambassador Extraordinary +from ordinary mortals until he accompanied his brother to Moscow. + + 5 o'clock. + +We had rather an interesting afternoon. We met one of the committee at +the place, sort of great plain, or meadow, where the Fete Populaire is +to be, near the Petrofski Palace, where the Emperor stayed before he +made his public entree into Moscow, who showed us everything. There are +quantities of little sheds or baraques, where everybody (and there will +be thousands, he tells us) will receive a basket with a meat pate, a +pate of confitures, a cake, and a package of bonbons. There are also +great barrels of beer, where everyone can go with a mug and drink as +much as he can hold. + +We asked M. (I forget his name) how it was possible to take precautions +with such a crowd of people, but he said they anticipated no danger, it +was the "people's day," which sounded to us rather optimistic. It was +rather nice driving about. + +Now I have just been, at the request of Lhermite, to look at his table, +as we have our first big dinner to-night (all Russians); all the +flowers, "Roses de France," have just arrived from Paris--three nights +on the road; they look quite fresh and beautiful,--were packed alone in +large hampers. I shall wear my blue tulle ball-dress to-night, as we go +to the ball at the Governor's Palace after dinner. + + Wednesday, 30th. + +Our dinner was pleasant last night. As it was entirely Russian we had +the curious meal they all take just before dinner. A table was spread in +the small salon opening into the dining-room, with smoked and salted +fish, caviare, cucumbers, anchovies, etc. They all partook, and then we +passed into the dining-room, where the real business began. I sat +between M. de Giers, Foreign Minister, and Count Worontzoff, Ministre de +la Cour. They were very pleasant, and rather amusing over the exigencies +of the suites of the foreign Princes; the smaller the Power the more +important the chamberlains, equerries, etc.--rather like our own +experience the year of the Exhibition in Paris, where a Baden equerry, I +think, was forgotten (which of course was most improper at the Quai +d'Orsay), and most delicate negotiations were necessary. Both gentlemen +were very complimentary over the dinner and the flowers--asked where in +Moscow we had been able to find them, and could hardly believe they had +arrived this morning, three nights and three days on the road. They were +beautiful, those lovely pink "Roses de France," which looked quite +charming with the dark blue Sevres china. + +The guests went off about 10; and we half an hour later to the great +ball. I wore my light blue tulle with silver braid; and I will add that +I left the greater part of the tulle at the Palace. Happily the silk +under-skirt was strong, or else I should have stood in my petticoats. +The crowd and heat was something awful--the staircase was a regular +bousculade, and I was thankful those big Russian spurs merely tore my +flounces, and didn't penetrate any further. We finally arrived, +struggling and already exhausted, in the ballroom, where we found all +the Grand Dukes and Grand Duchesses already assembled to receive the +Emperor. + +We had some little time to wait, so they all came over and talked to us. +The Queen of Greece is most attractive--so simple. She noticed that my +dress was torn and flowers crushed, but said, what was quite true, that +no one would remark it in the crowd. We soon heard the sound of the +March, and then there was such a rush towards the door by which the +Emperor and Empress were to enter that we quickly withdrew into the +embrasure of the window, and let the torrent pass. They tried to make a +circle, but it was impossible. The crowd was dense. W. and I made our +way quickly to the head of the stairs and waited there, as they had told +us the Emperor would not stay long--merely make a tour through the +rooms. + +They appeared very soon, shook hands with us both, and seemed very glad +to get away. The Empress was in light blue, with a beautiful diamond +tiara. It is rather pretty to see the Grand Duke Wladimir _always_ close +to his brother, to shield him from any danger. We were all rather cross +when we got home. + +This morning I have been shopping with W., Richard, and Pontecoulant. It +is rather an unsatisfactory performance, as we can't either speak or +understand Russian. In the bazaars and real Moscow shops they know +nothing but Russian. We take the little polygot boy with us (always +ahead in his little droshky) but as he invariably announces "la grande +Ambassade" we _see_ the prices go up. Some of the enamel and gold and +silver work is beautiful. Richard was quite fascinated with the +Madonnas, with their black faces and wands, set in a handsome frame of +gold, with light blue enamel. He bought two, one for Louise and one for +me, which I am delighted to have. We bought various little boxes, some +of lacquer, others in silver, rather prettily worked, and a variety of +fancy spoons, buckles, etc. + +I must stop now and dress. We dine at 6, so as to be at the Opera at 9. +We shall go "en gala," our three carriages, as it is a fine warm night. +The detective is a little anxious for to-night (it would be such a good +opportunity to get rid of all the Russian Princes, to say nothing of the +foreigners). He and Pontecoulant suggested to W. that I should be left +at home, but I protested vigorously. If they all go, I am going too. I +don't feel very nervous, I wonder why; for it really is a little +uncomfortable--unusual to hesitate about going to the Opera because one +might be blown up. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + Jeudi, May 31st, 1883. + +I was too tired to write last night, though the opera was over fairly +early. It was a beautiful sight, the house brilliantly lighted and +crowded, nothing but uniforms, orders, and jewels. There was one dark +box, which of course attracted much attention; the Americans--all the +men in black, except the three naval officers--(we were acclames all +along the route, and I must say Leroy and Hubert looked very well in +their tricornes and powdered wigs). I wore the creme embroidered velvet +with blue satin front, tiara, and blue feathers in my hair. I fancy +Philippe had made a sort of tower on the top of my head, but he again +assured me I must have a "coiffure de circonstance." + +The square before the Opera was brilliantly lighted (they certainly +light most beautifully in Russia--thousands of candles everywhere), a +red carpet down, and quantities of palms and flowers--always also +quantities of gilded gentlemen. We didn't wait very long for the +Court to appear--about a quarter of an hour--and were much taken up +looking at everything, and everybody, and trying to recognize our +friends. A large box at one end of the house, opposite the stage, was +reserved for the Royalties, all draped of course in red and gold. + +Everyone rose when the Emperor and Empress arrived, always with their +brilliant cortege of Princes. One of the most striking uniforms was the +Prince of Montenegro's, but they all made a fine show, and a most +effective background for the women--the orchestra playing the Russian +Hymn, the chorus singing it, all the house applauding, and all eyes +fixed on the Royal box. + +It was really magnificent, and the Emperor looked pleased. They gave the +first act of Glinka's opera "La Vie pour le Czar." When the curtain fell +the whole house rose again; when the Emperor and Empress left their box +there was a general movement among the people, and some of our +colleagues had come to pay us a visit when Count Worontzoff (Ministre de +la Cour) appeared and said, "Sa Majeste" hoped we would come and have +tea with her, and he would have the honour of showing us the way; so he +gave me his arm and took me to the foyer, which was very well arranged +with flowers, plants, and red carpets. + +There were several round tables. He took me to the Empress' table, where +were the Queen of Greece, Grand Duchesses Constantine and Wladimir, Lady +Thornton, and Madame Jaures; also Nigra, Schweinitz, and a brother of +the Shah de Perse. The Empress looked so young, in white, with a broad +red ribbon, and splendid diamonds. The Queen of Greece was charming, +asked me if I ever found time to write to Francis. The Emperor didn't +sit down--he walked about between the tables, and talked to everybody. + +We stayed, I should think, about half an hour at the tea-table, and then +went back to the theatre. The ballet was long, but interesting, all the +mazurkas of the Empire were danced in costume. We got our carriages +easily enough, and the arrangements were good. The younger members of +the Mission who didn't go for tea with the Empress found the entr'acte +long. + + Saturday, June 2d. + +I couldn't write yesterday, Dear, for I was in bed until dinner-time, +thoroughly tired out. Neither W. nor I went to the ball on Thursday +night given by the "Noblesse de Moscou." I hoped to be able to go to the +ball of the German Embassy last night, but I couldn't do that either. I +felt rather better about 6 o'clock, and sent for my dress, as W. +particularly wanted me to go, but the minute I stood up and tried to +dress I was half fainting, so there was no use persisting. + +The fatigue has been something awful, and the hours of standing have +made it impossible to put on my Paris shoes, and I have been obliged to +buy white satin _boats_ at one of the Moscow shoemakers. The bootmakers +will make his fortune, as it seems everybody is in the same state. The +Empress even can't wear her usual shoes, and all the women have left off +coquettish little shoes that match their dresses, and taken to these +rather primitive chaussures. + +W. and all the gentlemen went to the ball, and said it was very +handsome--everything, silver, supper, servants, etc., had been sent from +Berlin. Madame Schweinitz, who has a young baby, arrived from Petersburg +the morning of the ball. Count Eulenbourg--one of the German Emperor's +Maitres des Ceremonies--had also arrived to decide about the questions +of precedence, place, etc. The Court remained to supper, so of course +the Ambassadors were obliged to stay. W. got home at 2 o'clock, very +late for this country, where everything begins early. + +Richard and Pontecoulant are getting great friends. Pontecoulant +blagues[5] him all the time--says he is getting a perfect courtier, and +that his electors in the Seine Inferieure would be scandalized if they +could see him. I must dress now for the "Fete Populaire," and will write +more when I get back. + +[5] Teases. + + 9 o'clock. + +I have retired to my own quarters. W. dines with Nigra, so I have +remained in my dressing-room, as I have still a "fond de fatigue." The +Fete Populaire was interesting. The day has been beautiful, and +there was not a hitch of any kind. The drive out was interesting, on +account of the people, a steady stream of peasants of all ages going the +same way. We went at once to the Loge Imperiale, a large pavilion +erected at the entrance facing the great plain. The space was so +enormous that one hardly distinguished anything. The booths and towers +looked like little spots, and they were very far off. The Emperor and +Empress never left the Loge. He certainly didn't go down and walk about +among the people, as some enthusiastic gentlemen had told us he would. +Of course all the same people were assembled in the Loge--Diplomatists, +Court officials, officers, etc. There was a cold lunch always going on. + +There were many white dresses--all Russian women wear white a great deal +at any age. The Princess Kotchoubey--78 years old--who put the Imperial +mantle on the Empress the day of the sacre, and who had done the same +thing for the late Empress, was dressed entirely in white, bonnet, +mantle, everything. + +The Court remained about an hour, and we left as soon as they did. There +was some little delay getting our carriages, but on the whole the thing +was well managed. Already some people were coming away looking very +smiling, and carrying their baskets most carefully. I will bring you one +of the mugs they gave me with the chiffre of the Emperor and Empress, +and the date. + + Sunday, June 3d. + +I stayed at home all the morning, quite pleased to have nothing to do. +This afternoon W., Pontecoulant, and I went for a little turn. We got +out of the carriage at the Kremlin, and walked about, having a quiet +look at everything. The view from the terrace was enchanting, the +afternoon sun lighting up all the curious old buildings, and bringing +out the colours of everything. + +This evening we have had a diplomatic dinner. I was between Schweinitz +and Sir Edward Thornton. Both of them talked a great deal. After dinner +I talked some time to Hunt, whom I like very much. He says many people, +Russians particularly, couldn't understand why he didn't wear his +uniform--"ce n'est pas tres poli pour nous." They can't conceive that +the representative of a great Power shouldn't be attired in velvet and +gold like all the rest of the Embassies. + +The table was again covered with pink roses. They just last through the +dinner, and fall to pieces as soon as they are taken out of the vases. +Some of them looked so fresh, not even in full bloom, that I thought I +could send some French roses to Countess Pahlen, and the moment we left +the dining-room Lhermite took them off the table, but they fell to +pieces in his hands, covering the floor with their petals. + + Monday, June 4th. + +This morning we have been photographed in the court-yard--the whole +establishment, gala carriages, servants, horses, moujiks, maids, cooks, +etc. First there was the "classic" group of the Mission, W. and I seated +in front, with all the gentlemen standing around us. It was very long +getting the poses all right so as to show everybody in an advantageous +light; and as it is (judging from the cliche) Francois de Corcelle looks +as if he was throttling me. Then came the group of the whole party, and +it was amusing to see how eager the Russian maids and the stable-men +were to be well placed. They stood as still as rocks. We waited a little +to see the gala carriages and horses taken, but that was too long. The +horses were nervous, and never were quiet an instant. Now someone has +gone to get a drum--they think the sudden noise may make them all look +in the same direction for a moment. + +W. and I have been out for a turn--to the Kremlin of course, which is +really the most interesting part of Moscow. There is always the same +crowd hurrying and jostling each other. We went all over St. Basile. The +inside is curious, with a succession of rooms and dark recesses, but the +outside is unique; such an agglomeration of domes, steeples, +bell-towers; all absolutely different in shape and colour--perfectly +barbarous, but very striking. + +W. enjoys our quiet afternoon drives, the perpetual representation, +seeing always the same people, and saying and hearing the same things, +is beginning to tire him. It is a curious life. We see nothing but the +Court and the people--no haute bourgeoisie nor intermediate class, and +yet they exist, people in finance and commercial affairs. They certainly +have had no part in the show--I should think there must be great +discontent. The young generation certainly will never be satisfied to +be kept entirely out of everything. Some of them have travelled, been +educated in England, have handsome houses, English horses, etc., but +apparently they don't exist--at least we have never seen any. + +I must stop, as we dress and dine early for the Palace Ball. My Dear, my +dress is frightfully green (Delannoy's green velvet coat over pink +tulle). Of course we chose it by candle-light, when it looked charming; +but as we dress and start by daylight I am rather anxious. I consulted +Pontecoulant, who came in just as the maids were bringing it in. He +said, "C'est bien vert, Madame." Let us hope that the light of thousands +of wax candles may have a subduing effect. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #Ambassade de France, Moscow#, + #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#, + June 5, 1883. + +The Palace ball was quite beautiful last night. I had some misgivings as +to my dress until we got to the Palace, as the gentlemen of the Embassy +had evidently found me _very green_ when we assembled in the great hall +before starting; however as soon as we arrived in the big room of the +Palace where we were all marshalled, Countess Linden (an American born) +said to me at once "Oh, Mdme. Waddington, how lovely your pink roses +look on the _dark blue_ velvet," so I knew it was all right. I wore that +dress of Delannoy's which she was sure would be most effective--pink +tulle skirts--with a green velvet habit (chosen of course by +candle-light) so that it did look very green by daylight, and a wreath +of pink roses round the decollete. I remember both Henrietta and Pauline +were a little doubtful--but it certainly made more effect than any dress +I wore except the blue manteau de cour. I will tell Delannoy. We always +go in by a special side entrance to these Palace functions, which is a +pity, as we miss the grand staircase, which they told us was splendid +with red carpets, soldiers, and gold-laced gentlemen to-night. We waited +some time, an hour certainly, before the Court came, but as all the +Corps Diplomatique were assembled there it was pleasant enough, and we +all compared our experiences and our fatigue, for everybody was dead +tired--the men more than the women. + +The rooms are magnificent--very high, and entirely lighted by wax +candles--thousands; one of the chamberlains told me how many, but I +would scarcely dare to say. The Court arrived with the usual ceremony +and always the same brilliant suite of officers and foreign Princes. The +Emperor and Empress looked very smiling, and not at all tired. She was +in white, with splendid diamonds and the broad blue ribbon of St. Andre. +He always in uniform. As soon as they appeared the polonaises began, +this time three only, which the Emperor danced with the ladies of the +family. I danced the first with the Grand Duke Wladimir. He is charming +and amiable, but has a stern face when he isn't smiling. I think if the +Russians ever feel his hand it will be a heavy one. I danced the second +with the Grand Duke Alexis, and looked on at the third. It was not +nearly so fine a sight as the Court ball at the old palace. _There_ the +mixture of modern life and dress and half barbaric costumes and +ornamentations was so striking; also the trains made such an effect, +being all etaled one was obliged to keep a certain distance, and that +gave a stately air to the whole thing which was wanting last night when +all the women were in ordinary ball dress, not particularly long, so +that the cortege was rather crowded and one saw merely a mass of +jewelled heads (the dress was lost). Also they merely walked around the +ballroom, not going through all the rooms as we did at the old palace. + +When the polonaises were over there were one or two waltzes. The Empress +made several turns, but with the Princes only, and we stood and looked +on. + +While we were waiting there until someone should come and get us for +some new function I heard a sort of scuffle behind me and a woman's +impatient voice saying in English "I can't bear it another moment," and +a sound of something falling or rolling across the floor. I turned +round and saw Mdme. A---- (a secretary's wife, also an American) +apparently struggling with something, and very flushed and excited. I +said, "What is the matter?" "I am kicking off my shoes." "But you can +never put them on again." "I don't care if I never see them again--I +can't stand them another minute." "But you have to walk in a cortege to +supper with the Imperial party." "I don't care at all, I shall walk in +my stockings," then came another little kick, and the slipper +disappeared, rolling underneath a heavy damask curtain. I quite +sympathized with her, as my beautiful white slippers (Moscow +manufacture) were not altogether comfortable, but I think I should not +have had the strength of mind to discard them entirely. When I was +dressing, Adelaide tried to persuade me that I had better put on the +pink satin slippers that matched my dress; but my experience of the +hours of standing at all Russian Court functions had at least taught me +not to start with anything that was at all tight. + +While we were looking at the dancing the Grand Duke Michel came over and +asked me if I wouldn't come and stand a little with the Grand Duchesses. +He took me to a little group where were the Grand Duchesses Michel and +Constantine and the Queen of Greece (she is always so gay and natural). +They at once asked me who had made my dress, and what color it was. They +had been talking about it, and couldn't agree. The Grand Duchess +Constantine had on her emeralds, and beautiful they were--blocks of +stone, rather difficult to wear. She must have been very handsome, has +still a beautiful figure, and holds herself splendidly. + +We talked music a little--she said I ought to hear some of the people's +songs. I should like to very much, but there doesn't seem any place +where one can hear the national songs. The men of the Embassy went one +night to the "Hermitage," where there was a little of everything, and +did hear some of the peasants singing their national airs, but they +didn't seem to think I could go. While we were still talking there was a +move, and they said the Empress (who had been dancing all the time in +a small circle made for her at her end of the ballroom and very strictly +kept) was going to have tea. All the Court and suite followed, and I was +rather wondering how to get back to my place and my colleagues when a +tall aide-de-camp came up and said he would have the honour of +conducting me to Her Majesty's tea--so we started off across several +rooms and corridors, which were crowded, and arrived at a door where the +two gigantic negroes were standing. He said something--the doors flew +open--he made me a low bow and retired (as he couldn't come any +farther), and I found myself standing alone in a large room with four or +five tables--everyone seated. For a moment I didn't know quite what +to do, and felt rather shy, but the Princess Kotchoubey, Grande +Maitresse, who was standing in the middle of the room, came forward at +once and took me to the Duchesse d'Edimbourg's table, where there were +also the Arch-Duchess Charles Louis, the Duchess of Oldenburg, a young +Hessian Prince, and my two colleagues, Lady Thornton and Madame Jaures. + +We had tea and ices--didn't talk much, except the Duchess of Edinburgh, +who seems clever and ready to talk--but I wasn't near her. I didn't see +all the Ambassadors, mine certainly wasn't there, and of course very +few comparatively of our colleagues, as only Ambassadors and their wives +were invited to Her Majesty's tea (no small fry, like Ministers). + +I had the explanation of W.'s absence later. When the Court moved off to +tea General Wolseley suggested that W. should come and smoke a cigar in +his room. He was lodged at the Kremlin with his Prince, the Duke of +Edinburgh. He, like a true Briton, had enough of bowing and standing. W. +was naturally quite of the same opinion, so they picked up Admiral +Seymour (also with the Duke of Edinburgh) and had a very pleasant hour +smoking and talking until they were summoned for supper. _That_ they +couldn't get out of, as we made a fine procession directly behind the +Court through all the rooms to St. George's Hall--a great white high +room magnificently lighted, with tablets all around the walls with the +names of the Knights of the Order of St. George who had died in battle, +and a souper assis for 800 people. Sir Edward Thornton, British +Ambassador, took me. As we were parading through the rooms between two +hedges of gaping people looking at the cortege, dresses, diamonds, etc., +I thought of Mdme. A---- and her stockings, and wondered how she was +getting on. I daresay quite well; as she had a yellow satin dress and +yellow silk stockings perhaps no one noticed anything, and as long as +she didn't step on a needle or anything sharp she was all right. Someone +will find a nice little pair of yellow satin shoes under the +window-curtains in the ballroom when the cleaning up is done after the +fetes. + +The hall was a blaze of light and jewels--a long table across the end +for the Imperial party, and all of us at two long tables running the +whole length of the room. The gold and silver plate was very handsome, +particularly the massive flambeaux and high ornaments for the middle of +the table. The supper was good, hot, and quickly served. There was music +all the time--singers, men and women, in a gallery singing all sorts of +Russian airs which nobody listened to. The Emperor did not sit down to +supper. He remained standing in the middle of the room talking to his +gentlemen, and a few words to the diplomatists when supper was over and +one loitered a little before going back to the ballroom. He certainly +doesn't care to talk to strangers--seeks them out very little, and when +he does talk it is absolutely banal. Is it "paresse d'esprit" or great +reserve?--one hardly knows. I should think all this parade and function +bored him extremely. They say he is very domestic in his tastes, and +what he likes best is the country with his wife and children. + +After supper we went back to the ballroom for about half an hour. Then +the Court retired and we followed them at once. We got our carriages +fairly quickly. There are always crowds in the streets waiting to see +the grand-monde pass. The Kremlin looks fairy-like as we drive +through--lights everywhere, some high, high up in a queer little octagon +green tower--then a great doorway and staircase all lighted, with +quantities of servants and soldiers standing about; then a bit of rough +pavement in a half dark court and under a little low dark gate with a +shrine and Madonna at one end--all so perfectly unmodern, and unlike +anything else. + + * * * * * + +I began my letter this morning before breakfast, but didn't finish, as I +was called off by some visits, and now I will try and send this off by +to-night's courier. We have had a nice afternoon looking at the Tresor. +Of course it was very hurried--it would take weeks to see everything. +The collection of state carriages and sleighs is interesting. Almost all +the carriages are French--either given to the various Russian Sovereigns +by French Kings, or ordered in France by the Sovereigns themselves. The +great sledge in which Catharine II. made all her long voyages is +comfortable enough, and not unlike the "wagons imperiaux" in which we +travelled from Varsovie to Moscow. + +Then we saw all the Coronation robes, crowns, sapphires, swords, +jewelled belts and collars, furs, etc., of all the old Emperors from +Ivan the Terrible down to the late Emperor. Some of the crowns of the +first Ivans and Peters are extraordinary--a sort of high fur cap +covered with jewels, but heavy and roughly made--the jewels always +beautiful, such large stones, particularly sapphires and rubies. There +were vitrines full of splendid gold and silver cups and dishes, presents +to the Emperor from all the different provinces. + +They tell us the present Emperor has had magnificent things given to +him, but we have not seen them yet. We met various people also going +through the Museum, and I had quite a talk with Radziwill (you know +which one I mean, who married Countess Malatesta's daughter). It seemed +funny to go back to the old Roman days, and the evenings (prima-sera) in +the Malatesta Palace. He says everybody is worn out with the ceremonies +and the standing--however, to-night is the end, with our dinner at the +Palace. + +I have again been interrupted--this time by a visit from the Duc +d'Aoste, whom I always find charming. He is not at all expansive and +very shy, but when one breaks the ice he is interesting. He doesn't look +like anybody else, nor as if he belonged to this century. It is quite +the face one would see in any old Spanish picture--a soldier-monk of +Velasquez. He talked about the Exhibition of '78, when W. was at the +Foreign Office, and I was almost tempted to tell him how embarrassed +we all were on the opening day when there were so many Ex-Spanish +Sovereigns--King Francois d'Assises, Queen Isabella, and King Amedee. +There was a big reception in the evening at the Elysee, and the +Marechal[6] was rather bothered with all his Spanish Royalties. However, +Queen Isabella and the Duc d'Aoste were evidently on the best of terms. +I saw them talking together, and I believe all the Spaniards liked +d'Aoste, though naturally they wanted a King of their own race. + +[6] MacMahon, President at that time of the French Republic. + +Here is Monsieur Philippe for his last coiffure, as he says somewhat +sadly. To-night's dinner is our last function. We have then the revue, +by daylight, of course, and leave on Sunday for Petersburg. + + Wednesday, June 6th. + +The gala dinner was handsome and _short_ last night. W. and I went off +alone (none but chefs de mission were invited) in the coupe d'Orsay, +always with Benckendorff in his carriage in front--W. in uniform, I in +my white and silver brocade, white feathers and diamonds in my hair, no +colour anywhere, not even on my cheeks, which reduces Philippe to a +state of prostrate stupefaction--"Madame qui pourrait etre si bien." + +We were received at the foot of the staircase and at the doors by all +the Chamberlains as usual and taken at once to the same Salle St. George +where we were to dine--all at the Imperial table this time--about 500 +couverts. We were shown at once our seats--all the places were marked, +and we stood waiting behind our chairs (like the footmen) for the Court +to appear. I found myself seated between the Duc d'Aoste and the young +Crown Prince of Sweden, so I was quite satisfied. One of my colleagues +was very anxious I should change the papers--give her my Duke and take +her's, who was never civil to her, but would be perhaps to me, but I +demurred, as I knew mine would be nice, and I didn't know her's at all. +I don't think he was very nice to her, certainly didn't talk much, but +perhaps he never does. + +We didn't wait very long. The Court was fairly punctual--the Empress +looked very nice, all in white with diamonds. She had on her right the +Duc d'Edimbourg (who always had the place of honour), and on her left +the Prince Waldemar de Danemark, her brother. The Emperor had the Queen +of Greece on his right, the Arch Duchess Charles Louis on his left. The +dinner wasn't bad, and was quickly served. The fish were enormous, +served on large silver dishes as big as boats. There was always that +curious Russian soup with all sorts of nondescript things floating about +on the surface. The Duc d'Aoste was as nice as possible--said the Court +officials would be enchanted when everything was over, and all the +foreign Princes safely back in their own countries, that the question of +etiquette was something awful. As soon as the Russian Court decided +anything all the others immediately protested--used all sorts of +precedents, and complicated matters in every way. I suggested that he +himself was difficult to place on account of the Duc de Montpensier, who +was here as a Spanish Prince, husband of the Infanta. He replied +"Absolument pas--je suis ici comme prince italien, frere du roi," +declining any sort of Spanish souvenir. + +When dinner was over we passed into the salle St. Andre for coffee, and +that was funny too. As soon as the Emperor and Empress made the move all +our Dukes and Princes got up at once, and joined the Imperial +procession, and we followed all in a heap. There we had a pleasant half +hour, the Empress and the Grand Duchesses came over and talked to us, +hoped we were not tired, that we had been interested, etc. I said to the +Grand Duchess Constantine that they must be enchanted to be at the end +of their functions, and to get rid of us all--but she said not at all. +She herself was much less tired than when she began. She asked me what I +had found the most striking in all the ceremonies. I said certainly the +Coronation--first the moment when the Emperor crowned himself--the only +figure standing on the dais, and afterwards when he crowned the Empress, +she kneeling before him. + +The Empress asked me if I was going straight back to France, but she +didn't say, as so many of the others did, "Ce n'est pas adieu pour vous, +Mdme. Waddington, mais au revoir, car vous reviendrez certainement." +Admiral Jaures having already resigned many people think W. will be the +next Ambassador, but he certainly won't come. + +About 9 the Court retired. We had dined at 7, so the whole thing took +about two hours. It was quite light when we came out of the Palace, and +when we got back to the Maison Klein we found the Embassy just finishing +dinner, still in the dining-room. We sat a few minutes with them telling +our experiences. W. had been next to the Grand Duchess Michel, who was +very animated and intelligent, and extremely well posted in all literary +and political matters, and fairly just for a Princess speaking about a +Republic. + +Poor Pontecoulant has had a telegram telling him of his brother's death. +He is very much upset, and goes off to-night. W. will miss him +extremely--he was his right-hand man. I have been out this morning +shopping with Francois de Courcelle. It isn't easy, as our Russian is +not fluent, but still we managed to find a few things. + +This afternoon I have been with Lagrene (Consul), Sesmaisons, Corcelle, +and Calmon to the great institution of the "Enfants Trouves" fondee par +l'Imperatrice Catherine II. There we found Admiral Jaures and all his +staff, and a director who showed us all over the establishment--of +course everything was in perfect order, and perfectly clean (and I +believe it always is), but I should have preferred not having our visit +announced, so as to see the every-day working of the thing. We went +through quantities of rooms. In all, the Russian nurses with their high +head-dress (kakoshnik), the colour of the room, were standing, and +showed us most smilingly their babies. The rooms are all known by their +colours and the nurses dressed to correspond. All pink kakoshniks, for +instance, in the pink room, blue in the blue room, etc. It was rather +effective when all the women were standing in groups. The nurses were +decidedly young, some rather pretty faces, almost all fair. The +surveillante is a nice, kindly looking woman. We saw the whole ceremony. +In one of the rooms of the rez-de-chaussee we saw several women waiting +to take the children. The operation is always the same--one writes down +at once the name and age of the child (which is generally written on a +piece of paper pinned on to the clothes), they are always very young, 5 +or 6 days old. Then they are undressed, weighed, and carried off by one +of the nurses, wrapped up in a blanket, to a bath. After the bath they +are dressed in quite clean, nice garments, and the nurse gives them +the breast at once. All the rooms, dortoirs, salles-debain, laundries, +kitchens, are as clean as possible, plenty of light and air, and no +smells. We met Countess Pahlen going out as we came in, also the Arch +Duke Charles Louis. + +As we still had time before dinner we went to see the new church of St. +Sauveur, where there is to be a great ceremony of consecration +to-morrow; but as it is principally to celebrate the retreat of the +French Army from Moscow the two French Embassies abstain from that +function. We met there Prince Dolgourouky, Governor of Moscow, who did +the honours, and showed us the marbles, which are very varied and +handsome, all from the provinces of the Empire. The place was full of +workmen putting up tribunes, red and gold draperies, etc., but the +Prince, with much tact, made no allusion to to-morrow's function--so we +apparently didn't notice anything unusual in the church, and +concentrated our attention on the beautiful Russian marble. + + 11 o'clock. + +I will finish to-night. We have had our second diplomatic dinner, and I +found it pleasant, I hope the guests did. I had Mgr.[7] Vannutelli, the +Nonce, next to me. He is charming--such an easy talker. He arrived after +the sacre, as of course he could take no part in the ceremony. He told +me the dream of his life was to come to Paris, and I think he would have +a great success. He and Prince Orloff talked very easily together, and +Orloff told him he ought to come to Paris. Orloff also says that W. +ought to come back here as Ambassador, that he would be decidedly a +"persona grata," but that isn't W.'s impression. He has talked to a good +many men who are about the Court and the Emperor, and he thinks a +soldier, not a political man, would be a much better appointment. We +shall miss Pontecoulant awfully. He is so easy-going and looks after +everything, always smoothing things over--very necessary in a temporary +Embassy like this where all pull apart a little, and there is a sort of +dull friction and rivalry between the soldiers and the diplomatists. It +is funny to live entirely with a quantity of men, but they are all +charming to me. + +[7] Now cardinal. + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Ambassade de France, Moscow#, + #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#, + Thursday, June 7th, 1883. + +W. and I have had such a quiet conjugal day that we can hardly believe +we are still "Ambassadeur Extraordinaire." We breakfasted tete-a-tete, +as all the gentlemen have gone off to the Convent of St. Serge, which is +one of the things to see here. They have a very fine tresor. The Emperor +and Empress made retraite there before the sacre. After breakfast W. +looked over his despatches, and I played a little some Russian music +which Benckendorff had given me. + +About three we started off for "les Moineaux," a hill near Moscow from +which Napoleon had his first view of the city. There was no sun, which +was a pity, as all the colour of Moscow makes it so original and +different from everything else--however the city looked mysterious and +poetical in a sort of pink brume. We met various colleagues going the +same way--Nigra always in his "Troika" (Russian attelage) and the Hunts. +Nigra came and joined us on the terrace, and we had tea together. They +offered us a great many things, but we declined experiments, and kept on +saying "Tchai" (which means tea), until they brought it. Nigra told W. +he should taste the peculiar brandy of the country which all +drink--prince and peasant--but I think W. did not like it much. Nigra +was most agreeable. He is Italian Ambassador to Petersburg, and knows +everybody. He says Russian Society is rather fermee, unless you take +their ways and hours. All the ladies receive late, after the theatres, +every evening. It is quite informal--a cup of tea, very often music, and +really interesting talk. He says the women are remarkably intelligent +and cultivated--en masse cleverer than the men. I wonder if he would go +as far about them as Lord Lyons did about American women. When he came +back from America he said he had _never_ met a stupid American woman. We +had a pleasant hour on the terrace, and then started home again. + +We crossed the Empress driving with her brother, Prince Waldemar, in an +ordinary open carriage (harnessed Russian fashion--the three horses) and +with no escort nor _apparent_ policemen of any kind. She looked very +well and smiling, and so young. There was not much movement on the +road--a few carriages and peasant's carts. As soon as we got into Moscow +we fell at once into the same staring, quiet crowd; but I fancy many +people have already gone. The streets were not nearly so full. + +I had just time to dress, and dined alone with the gentlemen. W. and +General Pittie dined with the Nonce, Mgr. Vannutelli, and were to go to +Countess Pahlen's reception afterwards. The expedition to the Convent +seems to have been very successful, but long. They gave them breakfast +in the refectory--a very frugal meal--and showed them all their +treasures. I stayed a little while in the serre while they were smoking. +Now they have all gone out and I am not sorry to finish my evening +quietly in my little boudoir. I am getting quite accustomed to my little +room, with its ugly green and gold silk furniture (quite hideous, such a +bright, hard green). The chairs and sofa are so heavy it takes two of us +to move them. There are quantities of tables and candles (40 or 50 at +least, no lamps of any description), in branches, double candlesticks, +etc. I have great difficulty in persuading the little Russian maid not +to light them all, all the time; and when I have about 12 to dress by +she evidently considers me in the dark absolutely. I _think_ I have +dressed sometimes with two, quite contented, in the old days. + + Friday, June 8th. + +I walked about a little with Corcelle this morning. We went into one fur +shop where we found a woman who spoke French, but there was nothing very +tempting. They all advise us to wait for our furs at Petersburg, all the +best furs are sent there--however we bought a very good fur lining for a +driving coat (each of us) and I a fur couverture--principally I think +because the woman was nice, and it was a pleasure to talk ourselves and +not through the little boy of the Consulate, of whom I am by no means +sure. + +At 10 o'clock W. had his farewell audience with the Emperor, but it +wasn't particularly interesting--an insignificant conversation--might +have been any emperor, or any ambassador, of any country. + +After breakfast we went out again "en bande" with a new polyglot youth +this time--a young Frenchman whom Lhermite had discovered. He took us to +all sorts of places, small shops and bazaars, where we had never been. +We bought a good many things, Circassian belts and buckles of wrought +silver, some studded with turquoises, some enamelled--pretty +work--Russian chains and crosses, small Madonnas in curious brass +frames--always the black face on a gold ground, and several of those +beautiful, light Orenburg shawls, so fine that they pass through a ring +(we all tried) and yet fairly large and warm when one shakes them out to +the full size. It was rather amusing going in and out of all the +funny little shops. We left the carriage in one of the big streets and +walked about. + +Now we have come home. I have had my tea alone to-day. I must dress, as +we dine early, 7 o'clock, on account of our reception afterwards. I went +with Lhermite to see the flowers, fruit, bonbons, petits fours, etc., +which arrived this morning from Paris. It is extraordinary how fresh +they all look. There are dozens of boxes in the dining-room and office, +and the men are putting the flowers all about the rooms, Lhermite +superintending the whole thing. He is an enormous help--I don't know +what we should have done without him. + +I am going to wear my white and silver brocade to-night, the one I wore +at the Palace gala dinner--my last _full dress_ in Moscow. I am rather +shaken by my outing this afternoon--the going in some of those crooked +little old streets was something awful. The holes in the so-called +pavement were appalling, and the paving-stones tapered off generally to +a sharp point. I think nothing but a Russian carriage, driven by a +Russian coachman could have got along. I must say it is a straggling, +queer-looking town once you get out of the Kremlin and the main streets. +The houses are very far apart, generally white and low, with large +gardens, like a big overgrown village. + + * * * * * + +Well, Dear, our reception is over. It is ended early, as everything does +here--and as I am wide awake I will write at once. People began to come +about 9.30, and at 11.30 everyone had gone. The rooms looked well, +quantities of lights and flowers, everyone noticed the flowers (there +are so few here), which were heaped up everywhere on consoles, +mantelpieces, wherever one could put them. We had a great many +people--all our colleagues in full force, but not so many Russians as we +expected. A good many were de service at the Palace, where there was a +function of some kind for Russians only (the provinces), and I am sure +many never received their invitations, as it is impossible to find out +where anyone lives. I had a talk with General Richter and one or two +others, and then some of the younger members of the party suggested +dancing--of course we had no music, as dancing had not been +contemplated, but various amateurs offered their services, and they had +about half an hour of waltzes. At the end they danced a little the +Russian mazurka, which I was very curious to see. It is quite different +from our cotillon or the Sir Roger de Coverley. There are all sorts of +steps and figures. The gentleman takes his partner by the hand, holding +it rather high (as in the polonaise). They hold themselves very +straight, heads well back, as in a minuet, and do various figures. +The women have a quick, sliding step when they change partners, which is +very effective. I should think none but Russians would dance it +well--one must be born to it. + +Prince Orloff stayed on a little after everyone had gone, and we talked +over all the fetes, and principally our own performances. He says he has +heard plenty of talk and criticisms of everything, and is much pleased +with the success of our Mission. I hope the people at home will be +satisfied. + +We had a dinner for all the French newspaper correspondents the other +day--and they expressed themselves as quite gratified. They told us that +one of the correspondents (I forget which paper) had accepted W.'s +invitation, but the very day of the dinner there had been such a violent +attack on W. in his paper that he didn't like to come, and sent an +excuse. They say the Times' account is the best--the Figaro also very +good (Wolff). + + Saturday, June 9, 1883. + +The court is most amusing this morning--all the gentlemen are trying +their horses, superintending the saddling, etc., as most of them follow +the Emperor to-day at the revue. The little Russian horses look very +lively and never stand still an instant. W. and I go together in the +d'Orsay, Corcelle preceding us in another carriage. Benckendorff rides +with all the others. General Pittie is rather bored, he hates riding, +particularly on a horse he doesn't know, so he and Fayet will only mount +at the Champ de Mars. They say the Emperor's suite will be +enormous--over 100. I wore my ecru batiste with the heavy white +embroidery and the ecru bonnet with the wreath of pink and red roses. It +is almost white. (I wonder how I shall ever wear out all these +garments.) + +The day is beautiful. We started about 10, as we were invited for 11 to +the Tribune Imperiale. The road out was a sight--the middle alley had +been kept for the swells and Court, and there were quantities of +Imperial and Ambassadors' carriages, aides-de-camp, etc., dashing about. +I didn't see any handsome _private_ equipages. They told me the reason +was that the swells were attached to the Court and went about always in +Court carriages. Our gentlemen passed us riding--they had rendezvous in +the court-yard of the Palace Petrofski, where the Emperor mounted. We +went on to the Tribune. The cortege started fairly punctually. First +came the Empress in a victoria with four white horses. The Arch Duchess +Charles Louis was seated next to her, and on the box the Duchesse +d'Edimbourg and the Grand Duchess Wladimir, I think--at any rate another +Princess. There were 2 postilions, 2 mounted grooms, and a piqueur. Then +came the Emperor riding on the right of the Empress's carriage, always +on his little grey Cossack horse, the Grand Duke Heritier and the Duke +of Edinburgh directly behind him, and then a long, glittering suite of +foreign Princes and officers. The Grand Duke Wladimir commands the +Gardes, and was on the field to receive his brother. It is the first +time I have seen the Emperor without the Grand Duke Wladimir close +behind him. It was striking to see the stern, watchful face always +there. The Empress drove up and down the lines, the Emperor riding +alongside. It was difficult to distinguish any uniforms, as they were +rather far off, and there were clouds of dust. As soon as the Empress +had passed her revue she came up to the Tribune and took up her position +directly in front, _standing_ almost all the time. The Emperor and his +staff remained directly under the Tribune to see the defile. That of +course was long--but we had breakfast, also a sort of gouter always +going on, and servants appearing at intervals carrying trays with tea, +chocolate, orangeade, etc. All the Grand Duchesses (not the Empress) +moved about and talked to us. The Duchesse d'Oldenburg sat down next me +for some time and told me about some of the regiments (Crimean fame), +named some of the generals, etc. + +I had tea with the Duchess of Edinburgh. She is easy, clever, and was +much interested in all that was going on, told me I must come to the +front for the cavalry and Cossack charge, and that it would be soon. I +followed her when she made the move--the infantry were just +finishing--and in the distance one saw a movement and a flash of lances +in the sun, which showed that the Cossacks were getting ready. They +passed like a whirlwind--so fast, and in such clouds of dust that one +saw nothing but the glint of the lances, neither colour of uniforms, +horses, flags. All the troops, infantry as well as cavalry, saluted the +Emperor as they passed--a sort of dull sound, more like a groan than a +cheer--nothing like a ringing English hurrah. + +That was the end, so I went to the Princess Kotchoubey, Grande +Maitresse, to ask her if I should go and take leave of the Empress, as +she and the Emperor leave Moscow to-morrow. She said the Empress wished +us all, Ambassadrices and femmes de chefs-de-Mission, to stand near the +door, and she would say good-bye to us on her way out, so we moved down, +and after waiting a little she came. She made her circle very prettily, +shook hands with all, and talked a little, but she was evidently tired +and anxious to get away. She was dressed in a curious dress, a sort of +yellow cloth of gold, and gold bonnet with red flowers--always her +splendid pearl necklace. + +We had to wait some little time before our carriages could get up, so I +went back to the front of the Tribune to see the troops disperse. It was +a pretty sight as they all filed off in long columns, music playing and +flags flying, and always little groups of Cossacks tearing all over the +place. I had another cup of tea with a very good little cake while I was +waiting. Lady Thornton was tired and wanted one, so we sat there quite +quietly and had our tea. It was a lovely, bright, warm day, and we liked +that better than waiting at the door in the crowd until our carriages +came. + +[Illustration: Grand Duc Wladimir + +From a photograph by Bergamasco St Petersburg] + +We got back to the Embassy for breakfast, but were not very hungry. We +breakfasted alone with Corcelle, as the other gentlemen breakfasted with +all the Emperor's suite at the Petrofski Palace. I am writing this by +fits and starts, as you will perceive. I began at 9 this morning, and am +finishing now at 10.30, after a pleasant dinner at the Jaures--merely +our two Embassies, everyone telling his experiences, amusing enough. The +Jaures are quite ready to go. He wants to go to sea again, and will +command the Mediterranean Squadron, and she is tired of Russia. I have +no idea who will succeed them, but as long as it isn't W. I don't much +care. + +Well, our fetes are over. We shall have two days to see Moscow quietly, +and then break up. It has certainly been most interesting, and now that +it is over, and we all have still our heads on our shoulders, I am very +glad we came, for I shall never see such a sight again. + + Sunday, June 10th. + +Richard and I made an ineffectual attempt to go to the English church +this morning, but after driving half over Moscow and going to various +wrong addresses, which had been given to us, we gave it up, and came +home rather mortified and well jibed at by the whole Embassy. Just as we +were going to breakfast Prince Ourousoff, one of the Chamberlains, +appeared to say that two special trains would start for Petersburg on +Monday and Wednesday to take back the Corps Diplomatique, and asked us +which day would suit us best. W. preferred Wednesday. W. must have a day +or two to send off horses, carriages, huissiers, cooks, etc., and also +to see a little of Moscow, for he has scarcely seen anything. All his +days were so taken up with the visits--those he made and those he +received--and his despatches, that he did little but his morning ride on +his funny little bay horse (which he liked very much and which carried +him well). + +This afternoon we have been sight-seeing with Benckendorff, first to the +Kremlin to see the private apartments of the Emperor and Empress. The +Court, with all the foreign Princes and their suites, left last night +after the revue, and already one sees the difference in the streets. The +crowd of peasants has disappeared, there are fewer carriages, flags and +draperies are being removed from all the buildings, and the circulation +is so easy that one can scarcely realize that only yesterday that +brilliant throng was making its way with difficulty through the long, +straight allee to the Champ de Mars. It is very warm, the sun blazing, +and the white dust very trying; however we went about a good deal. We +saw the Romanoff house, an ordinary boyar house, with low, dark rooms +and a funny little winding staircase, but it had evidently been quite +done up (in the style of the epoch of course), and I didn't find it very +interesting. + +We went into numerous churches and towers, and wound up with a visit to +the Monastere Siminoff, from where there is a splendid view over the +city. We saw the Director, who came out and showed us everything. We +dined quietly at home with the Embassy only. After dinner, when smoking +in the serre, the soldiers began talking, fighting their battles over +again--all that horrible time between the Commune and Versailles, where +one of our Embassy, Fayet, was wounded. It is always interesting when +they talk seriously like that, but, Heavens, how they shot people at the +end, it makes one shiver. + +To-morrow will be a busy day, as all the packing must be done. One of +the French couturieres here will send a packer, and will come herself to +help the maids. Lhermite, with his cooks, footmen, etc., start Wednesday +morning early. They must cook us our last dinner Tuesday night. Hubert, +too, with carriages, horses, etc. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Ambassade de France a Moscow#, + #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#, + Monday, June 11th, 1883. + +Well, Dear, this is my last letter from Moscow--you will certainly never +again have any letter from Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, and I +suppose I shall never see Moscow again. The court is again most lively +(it is certainly an unfailing interest to me, and I am always looking +out of the window). Someone has come from one of the Grand Dukes, +Michel, I think, to see the big horses. Hawes was very anxious we should +sell them in Russia, if we could get a fair price. They have always +excited much attention and admiration, but they are very big, and here +the Russians are accustomed to a much smaller race, prefer three small +ones to one larger pair. I don't know either if they could stand the +climate. There seems to be a perfect army of helpers packing carriages, +saddles, harness, and all the stable equipment. Mdme. Gille (my +couturiere) has arrived. She has made me a very nice little blue foulard +shirt, I couldn't stand my cloth body these hot days, and yet must +travel in that dress, as I have no other. When I think of the furs that +have always remained at the bottom of one of the trunks--so many people +told me that it would be impossible to be in Russia in May and June +without furs. It is fair to say that Mdme. Jaures told me it was +freezing still the morning they left Petersburg--which seems incredible +now. I send back all my big trunks and swell garments with the Huberts. +I shall keep out only one or two dinner dresses for Petersburg. Poor +Mdme. Hubert is rather sad at leaving me, and going back to France +without having seen Petersburg, but of course I don't want two maids any +longer. + +This afternoon I went out with Richard for some last shopping. The city +is completely changed--not a creature nor a carriage, nor servants in +livery, nothing but a deserted city. We met the Austrian Ambassador +walking about in a blue flannel vest and a pot hat. The courts of the +Kremlin were meconnaissables, not a soul, hardly a soldier--one or two +small detachments of Cossacks at the gates. It is an extraordinary +change in such a short time. It has become a sleepy little provincial +town. + +We had two or three gentlemen to dinner, M. d'Orval, ancien officier de +Chasseurs, just back from a tour in the Caucasus with the Duc de +Chartres, and a Russian merchant for whom Richard had letters--the first +person I have seen in Russia who was neither noble nor peasant. Both men +were interesting enough. The Russian talked prudently, but fairly +openly--said there must be a great change--things couldn't go on as they +did now, there was a young generation to be reckoned with, active, +educated, intelligent, and they must have their say--that when the +uprising came there would be a Revolution such as Europe had never seen. +I wonder. + +After dinner we went to the Hermitage, the great public gardens. They +are pretty enough, large, with trees and bosquets, and every variety of +amusement--theatres, concerts, dancing, and even conjurors. Some +shepherds from the Wladimir Government with long yellow cloaks and high +hats were playing a sort of reed pipe, curious enough. At last I heard +some of the Russian national songs--a quartette was singing them in one +of the theatres. They are very pretty, monotonous, with an undercurrent +of sadness. They sang very true, and the voices are rich, not at all the +thin, high northern voice that one expected to hear. We stayed there so +long, looking at the various things, that we didn't get home until +12.30--much the latest entertainment I have been to in Moscow, except +the Palace ball, where the supper of course prolonged the festivities. + + Monday, June 11th. + +It was so warm to-day and I had so much to do with the +trunks--separating the things--that I only went out after tea, and of +course did a little more shopping. I wanted some photographs and also +some music--however Benckendorff said he would see about that for me. +We dined quite alone with the Embassy--a good dinner perfectly served, +tho' Lhermite leaves to-morrow. He came up to get his last instructions +from W. while we were having tea. His experiences are most amusing--he +says he has learnt a great deal of the language and the Russian ways of +doing business, and if ever he comes back he will know how to take care +of himself. He became quite excited at remembering various occasions +when he had been "roule." + +After dinner W. and I went for a last drive, to look at the Kremlin by +moonlight--and beautiful it was--the sky was so blue one could almost +see it like the Italian summer sky, and all the great white buildings +and towers stood out gloriously. The great church of St. Basile was +extraordinary. The colours, pink, green, red, yellow, all so vivid that +even at night one quite made them out. It is a mass of towers, domes, +and cupolas, every one different in shape, work, and colour. It was +planned and executed by an Italian architect, and the story is that the +Czar (of the epoch) was so pleased, and at the same time so afraid he +might make another like it, that he had his eyes put out. It was +curiously dark and quiet inside--scarcel any light; here and there a +glimmer high up in one of the Palace rooms. We met two or three +carriages with colleagues driving about in the moonlight like ourselves. +The river, too, looked beautiful from the terrace--a broad silver band +with moonlight full upon it. I took a last look at the black Madonna in +the gateway, and the little guard of Cossacks. I shall often think +of that last night in the Kremlin when I have returned to civilization +and modern life. + +I will send this off by to-morrow's courier. My next letter will be from +Petersburg. My little boudoir still looks very nice. The little Russian +maid is rather sad, and has been in and out 20 times, lighting candles, +opening and shutting doors and windows, and keeping up a stream of +conversation which I can't possibly understand, though the maids say +they do. W. is deep in last despatches, and has departed to his own +quarters. I haven't learnt any Russian, which I think is rather weak +on my part. I thought I would have some lessons at first, but I don't +think I could have learnt much in two weeks. Lagrene was +discouraging--says he knows very little, and his mother is a Russian. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Hotel Demouth, Petersburg#, + Jeudi, 14 Juin, 1883. + +We arrived here last night at 12.30. The journey was comfortable enough, +but long--the Russian trains do not go a terrifying pace. We left Moscow +at 9.30, and the Maison Klein a little before 9. The depart was quite +imposing--all the personnel drawn up at the foot of the stairs, Lhermite +and the three coachmen outside at the door, and a regiment of +understrappers of all kinds. The little Russian maid was weeping and +kissing my skirts. The faithful Benckendorff accompanied us to the +station and saw us safely deposited in our wagon-salon--each Ambassador +had one and a smaller one for the suite. Two Chamberlains, not attired +in velvet and gold lace this time,--I felt rather aggrieved at having +ordinary mortals in plain clothes to look after us--were waiting at the +station to see that everything was well done, and they went with us to +Petersburg. There was a Mongole at the door of our wagon who appeared at +intervals with tea, oranges, and much information of all kinds (in +Russian). We had all our meals en route--breakfast at 11, dinner at +4.30, a nondescript sort of meal, half gouter, half supper, with cold +fish, fowl, mayonnaise, etc., at 8--and a very pretty little tea at +10.30. We all partook of every meal--how we managed to eat chicken and +mayonnaise at 8, having dined at 4.30, seems a mystery, but we did. + +It was very hot at starting--the sun pouring down on the plains that are +around Moscow--not an atom of shade, but there was a sharp shower about +2 which cooled the air. They tell us Petersburg too is very hot. The +day passed quickly enough. Many of our colleagues came and paid us +visits. The Nuncio sat a long time. He is most interesting, with that +delightful, simple, easy Italian manner. He asked us a great deal about +the religious ceremony the day of the Coronation. He had only arrived +after that. He is very clever and sympathetic, ready to talk about +anything, and so moderate in his views. I think he would have a great +success in Paris, where people love to discuss and analyze everything. + +Our Spanish colleague also came and sat with us. It seems he wanted W. +to come to his carriage and drink champagne and play cards (very high +play too), but it was conveyed to him that these were not exactly M. +Waddington's tastes. Rumour says he was naively surprised, and said, +"Comment, il ne joue pas!--le pauvre homme!" They were certainly a very +merry party--we heard roars of laughter every time the train stopped. +If anyone was losing heavily he took it most cheerfully. + +Our last little tea at 10.30 was really very pretty--several round +tables very well arranged with flowers, tea, orangeade, and other +drinks--cakes, petits fours, etc. (but no more solid food). W. struck +and wouldn't get out, but Richard and I and the rest of the men were +quite ready to see what was going on. Do you remember how I always loved +getting out at all the buffets at no matter what time of night, when we +used to go down to Italy every year? I think the buffet at Bologna with +its "fricandeau de veau" is one of my most interesting souvenirs of +travel (not from an artistic point of view). + +The arrival at Petersburg was curious. It was quite light, and there +were as many people at the station and in the streets as if it were 12 +o'clock in the day. We read distinctly the names and numbers of the +streets and the signs of the shops, and yet it wasn't altogether +daylight--more like a late summer afternoon. We found very comfortable +rooms here--a large salon with large bedrooms on either side, and a room +next to me for Adelaide. I was quite ready to go to bed--the heat and +dust were trying, and yet it seemed funny to go to bed by daylight. They +brought tea of course, but we really couldn't do any more, so I departed +to my own room. There I quite lost the impression of daylight, as there +were double, even triple curtains to all the windows. + +This morning we slept late and breakfasted at 12.30, then W., Richard, +and I went off in a carriage to the Hermitage (the great Museum). W. +sent in his card to the Director of the Museum and also to the head of +the Cabinet des Medailles, as he wants a week's work at the medals. It +seems there is a splendid collection here. The gentlemen were very +civil, and we made rendezvous for to-morrow, W. for the medals and +Richard and I for the pictures. The Hermitage is an immense museum. +We shall only be able to have an idea of what is in it. We walked +through some of the rooms--Peter the Great's gallery, which is full of +course of souvenirs--his clothes, arms, tools, furniture, horse stuffed, +etc., and in another there were quantities of bibelots of all kinds, and +presents given to Peter and Catherine II--a collection of snuff boxes, +crystal flagons, and goblets (some with precious stones encrusted in the +glass), jewelled belts and caps--most interesting. + +We had our first view of the Neva from the windows of one of the rooms. +It rushes past like the sea, so broad and strong, with very fair waves, +a splendid river. We stayed about an hour lounging through the rooms, +and then went on for a general view of the city. It is very handsome, +but has no particular cachet (except the Neva) at this season of the +year--one ought to see it in winter when the river is frozen and the +real winter life begins. It looks so modern after Moscow. We went to +the great cathedral of St. Isaac. It is very big and imposing as a mass, +but the architecture not very striking--afterwards to the fortress and +church of St. Peter and St. Paul, where all the Emperors are buried--to +Peter the Great's house (a most ordinary little wooden building), drove +a little along the quais, where the lovely fresh breeze from the river +was most welcome and invigorating after the heat and dust of Moscow. + +There was a good deal of life on the river, boats of all kinds. We think +of going by steamer to Stockholm, all along the coast of Finland. They +tell us it is a beautiful journey, particularly at this time of year, +with the long, clear evenings. I want to see the boat before we decide, +as I have an idea that it wouldn't be very clean (they say the boats on +the rivers Volga, etc., are something terrible). We wound up in the +Perspective Nevsky--the great shopping street, but didn't get out of the +carriage, merely drove through. The shops look handsome and the vitrines +well arranged, just like Paris. There was very little animation in the +streets and very few carriages. They tell us many people have already +gone away for the summer. + +We dined quietly at the hotel, and just as we were finishing Admiral +Jaures came in to suggest that we should dine at Peterhof to-morrow +afternoon. He says it is a very nice excursion--a short hour on the +boat, and we can get a fair dinner there. About 9.30 we started again in +the carriage to drive to the Islands or "La Pointe"--the great +rendezvous in summer of all Petersburg. It is a long hour's drive, +crossing quantities of small islands all connected by bridges, and one +finally arrives at the "Pointe," end of the drive, and entrance of the +Gulf of Finland. There all the carriages draw up, the people get down +and walk about, or sit on the benches at the water's edge--a regular +salon--in summer one sees all the people who are still "en ville" there. +The place in itself is not at all pretty. The water of the Gulf is grey, +the banks low, no trees--but the air was delicious. + +We met almost all our Moscow colleagues--also Princess Lise Troubetzkoi, +who was delighted to see W. and plunge into Paris politics. She wanted +us to go back and have tea with her, but it was 11 o'clock and I was +tired, having been going all day--evidently that is what people do, as +several of our colleagues too asked us, and expressed great surprise at +our wanting to go home so early. + +We didn't get back to the hotel until 12, and then loitered a little in +the salon, as the windows were open, people walking and driving about +the streets, and nothing to make us think it was midnight, or at least +the midnight we are accustomed to. They brought us some tea, and a +little before one, making many excuses, I retired, rather feeling as if +I were going to bed with the chickens. + + Friday, June 15th. + +We have been all the morning at the Hermitage, and I will write a little +now after breakfast, before we start for Peterhof. We took ourselves off +early in a droshky (Russian fiacre), the porter telling the coachman +where to drive to; and telling us how much to give him. It was a lovely +morning, not too warm, and we enjoyed our drive. W. was shown at once to +the Cabinet des Medailles, where the Conservateur was waiting for him, +and Richard and I were taken in hand by a young man attached to the +Museum who knew his work well, and was remarkably intelligent, speaking +French quite well. The pictures are beautiful--there are quantities of +every possible school. The finest we thought the Van Dycks and the +Rembrandts, though some of the Italian Madonnas were lovely too. I like +the Italian Madonna face so much--it is so pure and young and +passionless. Our guide was very talkative, and very anxious to know what +we thought of the Moscow ceremonies. We stayed about two hours, seeing +all sorts of things "en passant" besides the pictures. The whole Museum +is crowded--I don't think they could get much more in. + + Saturday, June 16th. + +Our excursion to Peterhof was delightful yesterday afternoon. We took +the four o'clock boat, and had a nice sail down of an hour and a +quarter. The Jaures came with us, also Pittie, Fayet, and Calmon. +Corcelle went back to Paris from Moscow--also Sesmaisons, so our +Mission is decidedly diminished. We met several of our Moscow friends on +the boat--General Richter, Comte Worontzoff, and some others. The Court +is at Peterhof and they are all established there. They told us the +Emperor and Empress were not very tired after the excitement and +emotions of the Coronation--very happy that all had gone so smoothly, +and now quite pleased to be quietly at Peterhof with their children. + +The Russians are very proud of Peterhof, call it a "petit Versailles," +and "petit" it certainly is in comparison; but the park is pretty, well +laid out, with terraces and gardens, and the water-works really very +good indeed. A very good Circassian band was playing, and a good many +people walking about. What was lovely and quite unlike Versailles were +the glimpses of the sea one had on all sides. We got carriages and drove +all about. We went into the big Palace, where the present Emperor never +lives. He prefers a small place, half farm, half cottage, close to the +sea, and lives there quite contentedly and quietly like an ordinary +country gentleman. However we couldn't get anywhere near that villa--the +gates and alleys were closed, and guards and soldiers everywhere. + +We dined very badly at a restaurant we had been told of on the sea, and +took the 10 o'clock boat home. The return was enchanting--a beautiful +starlight night, and fresh, soft breeze. I had a nice talk with Mdme. +Jaures, who told me a good deal of Russian ways and life. I think she is +glad to go back to France, and "au fond" there are very few French women +who care to _live_ abroad altogether. After three or four years they get +homesick for their own country. She asked me if I was never homesick for +America--but I told her I had been so long away, and my life had been +such a full one that I sometimes asked myself was I the same little girl +that used to run wild in the country at home with a donkey cart and a +big Newfoundland dog. Those years seem so long ago the memory is getting +duller. Sometimes I shut my eyes and see quite well the big white house +with the piazzas, and the climbing roses, the cherry trees, and the +white gate with the sharp turn, and the ditch where we upset so often in +the sleighs--all the children tumbling out into the snow drift, and +nobody minding. + +We got home at 11.30 and found letters, which we read quite easily at +the window. It is a wonderful light--no one ever seems to think of going +to bed. + +This morning we have been again at the Hermitage to finish the pictures. +Decidedly the Rembrandts are the gems of the collection. There was one +old man in a sort of fur robe and cap, with a wrinkled yellow face, +whose eyes seemed quite alive, and followed us all round the room. We +left W. with his medals and a sort of clerk attached to the Cabinet des +Medailles. It seems they never leave anybody alone in the room with the +medals. W. is delighted, he has found some rare coins he had never seen, +and he means to have a good day's work, will not come back to breakfast +with us. + +Our young man, Baron Leeven, is always with us, and meets us at the +Winter Palace this afternoon to show us the rooms. Our Mission is +dwindling; Fayet went off this morning, Pittie and Calmon go Monday. +Richard remains to make the journey with us to Stockholm by sea. We have +just come in from a pleasant dinner at the Jaures'. The Embassy is +small, but very well arranged, and we had a very good, handsome dinner. +All the personnel of the Embassy, Vannutelli and his two auditeurs, and +the French Consul and his wife. Admiral Jaures was very hospitable and +en train--all sailors are, I wonder why? The officers of high rank must +have so many lonely hours, and are such swells on their ships, where no +one can associate much with them, that one would think it would make +them rather silent and reserved from long habit--but it is quite the +contrary. In all nations sailors are generally cultivated, and good +talkers. + +We shall become quite intimate with Vannutelli. We met him at the Winter +Palace this afternoon, and went all about together. I can't say I found +it very interesting. The rooms are handsome--high, generally white, with +quantities of pictures--the portraits, some very old ones, +interesting--the large modern pictures of battles by sea and land less +so. I like very much the pictures of Peter the Great. He has a keen, +striking face, must have had splendid eyes, very intelligent, in some of +the portraits almost inspired, _hard_, not cruel. They were very anxious +to show us the rooms where the late Emperor died, but there had been +some mistake, and the man who has charge of the room could not be found, +nor the key either. I was very glad (not that I should have gone in), +for they said it was a horrid sight--the camp-bed and even his clothes +left as they were, thick with blood. He was carried there directly after +the attentat, and died on the little camp-bed. What I liked best was the +splendid view again of the Neva from the windows of the ballroom. It +looked a beautiful blue sea, the waves dancing in the afternoon light, +and all the white sails standing out well in the sun. The two young men +who were with us were most amusing. They showed us all the pictures in +detail _except_ those concerning the Grande Armee and the disastrous +retreat. We were hurried past them, "rien de tres interessant, +Madame--pas la peine de s'arreter----." + + Sunday, June 17th. + +This morning we went to the French Protestant Church--a large room with +white walls, and benches. There were very few people, but they tell us +it is fairly full in winter. There is a large French colony--shopkeepers, +theatre people, etc., and a great many Protestants. The Pasteur preached +a very fair, sensible sermon. + +After breakfast we had some visitors--Sir Edward Thornton, who wants us +to dine one night; and a nice man, a Russian (whose name I never knew), +but who told us to come to this hotel in which he is interested, and who +has offered to go shopping with us one day, and show us the best +fur-shops. We went for a drive in the afternoon to the Park Catherine, +where a sort of fete populaire was going on. There were a great many +people, and a great many policemen (as there always are here), one would +think they lived in perpetual fear of an emeute, and yet the people all +looked so subdued and repressed--I haven't seen one fierce face. The +quantity of moujiks in their red shirts made a good effect of colour, +but the women are not attractive, nor pretty. All are wrapped up in +shawls, with a handkerchief over their heads. + +We had a pleasant dinner at the Hunts' (United States Legation), all +their people, including of course George Wurts, whom I was very pleased +to see again--Admiral Baldwin and his two Aides-de-camp Rogers and Paul, +and M. et Mdme. de Struve. They are just going to America--he is named +Minister there. They have been in Japan, and didn't seem very keen about +America. I should think they would like it better than Japan, but I +believe he hoped for some post in Europe. She was very amusing, and from +her account life in Japan must still be very primitive. + +We came away early--about 10.30--and have been poring over guide-books +ever since, making out our journey, always at the window (11 o'clock at +night, and with no lamps). + + Tuesday, June 19th. + +We had a charming afternoon yesterday at Cronstadt on the Lancaster, +Admiral Baldwin's flag-ship. He had invited all the Corps Diplomatique, +and the few Russians who are still in Petersburg, Jomini, Struve, +Benckendorff, etc. We started about 3.30 in the regular Russian +steamer, and once under way the breeze was delicious. I wore my white +batiste with Valenciennes, and a big black hat (which wasn't very +practical on the steamer, as the wind blew the feathers about +considerably, but I thought it looked so nice with the white dress). The +American ship looked beautiful as we drew near--an old-fashioned +frigate, all dressed with flags. The getting on board was not very easy, +as she lay far out, and we had to get into small boats from our steamer +and go out to her. It didn't look very pleasant when they put the steps +down and told us to jump. There were fair waves, and when they told us +to jump the boat was apparently nowhere near, but of course swung under +the steps on the top of the wave at the right moment. Lady Thornton got +down all right, so did I; but one of our colleagues had a most trying +time. She was stout and nervous, looked wretched when she was standing +on the steps between two strong sailors who told her to jump. She did +her best, poor thing, and several times we in the boat below saw a stout +white leg suddenly descend, but it was immediately drawn back, and she +never let go of her sailors. Her husband, man-like, was furious, which +of course made her much more nervous; however, after several attempts +she gave it up, and they lowered her in an arm-chair, which didn't look +quite comfortable either when it was suspended in the air waiting for +the boat to arrive. + +We danced about well in the little boat, for every time it came up, and +she didn't come down, we had to go back and repeat the performance. The +American Legation got off first and were received by a salute of 15 +guns, and then we followed. The Admiral with all his officers received +us at the top of the ladder, and the band played our national airs, and +they gave the Ambassador's salute, 17 guns, and a great noise it made +just over our heads as we were mounting the ladder. Lady Thornton and +her husband were in front of me, and I heard the "God Save The +Queen"--then came the "Marseillaise," and for a moment I forgot I was a +Frenchwoman and looked to see whom the "Marseillaise" was for (W. hadn't +come in the boat with me, waited for the second one), but I recovered +myself in time to bow and smile my thanks. + +I was delighted to find myself on an American ship, I so rarely see +American officers of any kind. The ship was in splendid condition, so +beautifully clean. We had a very handsome dinner in the Admiral's cabin. +He took me down to see the table before all the guests came, and very +pretty it looked, quantities of flowers and some handsome silver. No one +enjoyed the day more than Mgr. Vannutelli. He had a little doubt about +coming, as he heard there was to be dancing, and consulted us about it. +We told him the dancing would be mild, and he might never have a chance +to see a big American ship again, and strongly advised him to come. + +While Lady Thornton and I were sitting together one of the young +officers came up to her (she knew several of them, as they were some +years in Washington) saying he heard one of the Ambassadresses was an +American, did she know which one, and could she introduce him. +"Certainly," she said, "it is Madame Waddington, wife of the French +Ambassador, who is sitting next to me now," and immediately presented +the young man, who said he had been looking at all the ladies to see +which was the American, but hadn't placed me, he supposed because he +heard me speaking French. We became great friends, and he took me all +over the ship. We danced a little on deck--a quadrille d'honneur--I with +my friend Schimmelpenninck, Lady Thornton with Jaures, Madame Jaures +with Admiral Baldwin. Then we left the dancing to the young ones and sat +quietly on deck till it was time to go. Just as we were starting the +Admiral asked me if I would say a few words to the band--they were +almost all Italians. I went over at once and talked to them, so did the +Nuncio, which of course delighted them. + +We started back about 9 in a special Russian steamer. The sea was much +calmer, and the getting off one boat and on another was not such a +difficult operation even for poor Mdme. A----. The sail back was about +two hours--quite enchanting in that beautiful northern twilight, and we +were all sorry when it came to an end. + +This morning it is very warm, and I am rather seedy, so I have stayed +quietly at home. Richard and I breakfasted tete-a-tete, as W. was off at +an early hour to his medals, and won't be back until dark. I wonder if +the Russian officials will be as astonished at his capacity for a long +spell of work as the Italians were. _They_ struck after _two_ days of +such work, and then took it in turns. One day at Milan I went to get him +at the end of the day, as we were going to drive somewhere in the +country, so the Italian smiled all over, and almost winked, saying, +"Ah, Madame est venue voir si Monsieur etait vraiment aux Medailles +toute la journee." I suppose he felt that he wouldn't have stayed +working all those hours, and also quite understood that I suspected W. +of doing something else. + +We have had a nice visit from Benckendorff, who has told us all about +the boat we want to take to go to Stockholm. He says they are Swedish +boats, very clean, and very good food; also very few people at this time +of the year. + +Now I must dress and go with Richard to pay some visits. Calmon will go +and see you and give you all our news. He won't tell you what I will, +that he had a great success in Moscow--his artillery uniform, the +astrakhan tunique, was very becoming--all the ladies found him "tres +beau garcon." I must add too that Richard also had a great +success--evidently artillery uniform is becoming. It was rather amusing +to see the face of one of the young ladies when I made some reference to +Madame Richard Waddington. "M. Waddington married--I never should have +dreamed of it"--and after a moment, "What is his wife like?" doubtfully. +"Is she pretty?" "Well, yes, she is very pretty." Richard won't tell you +that either when he comes back, but I shall tell Louise. + +How curious all the Moscow life will seem when I am settled again at +Bourneville--walking in the park with the children, riding all over the +country with W., and leading an absolutely quiet life. I hope I shall +remember all I want to tell you. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Hotel Demoult, Petersburg#, + Wednesday, June 20th, 1883. + +Richard and I went visiting yesterday. We found the Thorntons, who gave +us tea. Their Embassy is charming--a big house on the Quai Anglais. The +drawing-rooms are large and high. All the windows look out on the Neva, +and they say it is quite beautiful at night. Then we went back to the +hotel, got W., who had had a fine morning with his medals--says the +collection is magnificent, much larger than he had any idea of, and +started off to the Quais to see our boat. We leave to-morrow evening +between 6 and 7. It looked very nice and clean, and the Captain was +quite overwhelmed with the distinguished passengers he was to have the +honour of transporting. We have an enormous cabin (two thrown into one) +big enough for a family. I interviewed the stewardess, a nice +fresh-looking Norwegian woman. Conversation was rather difficult, as I +spoke German and she Norwegian, and neither of us understood the +other, but I am sure we shall get on very well. They tell us the voyage +is enchanting, all in and out of small fiords, islands, and narrow +rivers. We stop five or six hours each day to see the country, and never +have any sea until we cross to Stockholm, when it is generally rough. + +We dined quietly at the hotel with Coutouly, our Consul, a very nice +man, very intelligent. He too had interviewed the Captain, and told him +to take every care of us. He says the trip is enchanting, and the two +Finnish towns, Helsingfors and Abo, very well worth seeing. About 10 +o'clock we drove off to the "Pointe" and had a pleasant hour with some +of the colleagues. It is always cool there, and the drive out is +interesting, so unlike anything else. + +Richard went off early this morning with Sermet and Moulin of the French +Embassy to see the Falls of Smatra, which are said to be very fine. We +pick him up at Helsingfors. + +I walked about a little with Adelaide--I never see anything the least +like a femme du monde in the streets. I suppose the "societe" are away +for the summer, and the streets look rather as September streets do in +Paris. + +W. and I dined at the Thorntons'--handsome and pleasant. Jaures was +there, not his wife, she has already started for Paris, and the Ternaux +Compans, a nice young menage (just married) attached to the Embassy. She +was very well dressed, in white. There was also the Danish Minister (I +forget his name). He is a friend of the Empress and tres bien vu a la +cour. After dinner someone played on the piano, and he and Mary Thornton +danced a little, showing us some of the figures of the mazurka. Lady +Thornton says, like everyone else, that the society of Petersburg is +very ferme. They know everybody, but I fancy very few of the +diplomatists make real friends with anyone. I was rather surprised, as +the Russians one meets abroad are generally very easy and sociable. She +also finds the climate very trying. She showed me all the rooms, which +are charming. In all the bedrooms very thick curtains, as the light is +most trying, and of course people who live there must have regular hours +for sleep--for us birds of passage it is of no consequence, and going to +bed seems the last thing one would think of doing in Petersburg. + +We came home about 11, and now W. is busy over his Paris letters, also +putting his notes in order, as he has finished with the medals. He has +had three or four days of real hard work, but says it rested him after +all the Court festivities. + + Jeudi, 21 Juin. + +We have been shopping all the morning,--W. and I and M. Lomatch (I have +found his name). We bought, among other things, a sled for Francis--I +haven't seen one since I left America--and a good deal of Russian lace, +which they say is very solid, and embroidery. We came back to a late +breakfast, and I am writing now at the last moment while they are +carrying down the trunks. We are going at 4 to the steamer to leave our +boxes and Adelaide, and install ourselves, and then go for tea to +Coutouly, who has an apartment on the Quai, just opposite the wharf +where the steamer starts from. I am quite sorry to go. We are very +comfortable here, and the streets are so amusing. I should like once to +hear a little laughing and singing, as the various groups of +work-people, soldiers, and peasants pass--but they are a curiously sad, +subdued race. + + Friday, June 22d. "En mer." + +We are just approaching Helsingfors (twelve o'clock), where we go on +shore for some hours, and I will write a little. I have a nice straw +arm-chair on deck (the sail shades me), a table with books, papers, etc. +We embarked at 6.30 yesterday. We went on the boat about 4--saw the +Captain, a very nice man, a Finn, who speaks English quite well, and who +is much pleased to have us on his boat. He went down to the cabin with +us, which is really a large, airy room, with two very fair beds, and +a sort of recess which makes a dressing-room. It opens into the ladies' +cabin, where he had also arranged the end near our cabin for us--two +arm-chairs, a table, etc. Adelaide has a nice state-room just +opposite--also Richard. There were not many people on board--and he said +he hadn't many passengers, chiefly men. + +We left cloaks, books, etc., and walked across to the Coutoulys', who +have a nice apartment directly on the river. It is so broad and swift +one feels almost as if one was on the sea-shore. There is much passing +all the time, and a good many little posts, as at Venice, where the +boats are tied. They gave us tea, and about 6 we went back to the boat. + +Jaures was there with some of his young men, and Benckendorff, who came +to say a last good-bye this time. We gave him rendezvous in Paris, as we +should like very much to do something for him. He was untiring and +devoted to us all the time we were at Moscow--never tired, always taking +a great deal of trouble to see that we were well taken care of, and +helping us in every way. I found three or four handsome bouquets in the +cabin--one from him, and one from M. Lomatch, the proprietor of our +hotel. He has written to the hotel at Stockholm for rooms for us. We +arrive Sunday morning--have three nights at sea. Adelaide is quite +excited at the prospect of a real voyage "en mer." + +We had a very good supper about 8.30, just as we were passing Cronstadt. +We have made a very nice arrangement for our meals. The idea of a +table-d'hote with all the people who are on board (many more than I +thought) was appalling, so we are to have all our meals half an hour +before the others at a small table in the dining-room. It is a most +satisfactory arrangement, and we had a nice quiet hour on deck while +the other passengers were supping. It was a lovely evening--the sea +absolutely calm, and so warm I hardly needed my cloak. We sat late on +deck. They brought us a table with tea and Swedish punch, which seems to +be the favourite drink here. + +The passengers all came up after their supper. They were quiet +enough--all had tea, punch, and cigars, and a great many played cards. +The men look like commis-voyageurs, or small shopkeepers--almost all, I +should think, Swedes or Norwegians. There are three or four English +women and girls, governesses, the Captain tells me, going to Stockholm +and Christiania. + +We went down to our cabin about 12--always the same curious grey light. +I slept perfectly well. It seemed to me there was a little roulis about +3 o'clock (I heard a clock strike somewhere), but it was only pleasant. +I was up at 8 and had my tea and toast in the ladies' cabin close to a +port-hole, and was rather sorry I hadn't had it on deck. I went up as +soon as I had finished. We were passing through a series of little +bays, all dotted over with islands, some fairly large, some merely a +granite rock with a pine tree on it. + + Saturday, June 23d. "En mer." + +I was interrupted yesterday by the Captain, who came to get us to stand +on the passerelle with him and see the approach to Helsingfors. The bay +has widened out into a sea, and the harbour seems important. There are +lots of ships and steamers--also small boats going backwards and +forwards between them and the quais. The men in the boats wear a red +cap, something like the Neapolitan fishermen. The town stands out +well--there are high cliffs rising straight out of the sea, and a great +many steeples (not the green and pink cupolas of Moscow). + +We found Richard and our Consul waiting for us on the Quai, and we drove +at once to the hotel, and breakfasted. The steamer remains until 12 +o'clock to-night, so we have ample time to see the town. Just as we were +finishing breakfast a gentleman appeared, a director of something +(Postes et Telegraphes, I think) who came to do the honours in the +absence of the Governor. He had an open carriage with a pair of nice +little Russian horses, and drove us all over the town. Helsingfors is +the capital of Finland, and I believe flourishing enough. The town is +small and rambling--entirely surrounded by water, and quantities of +little islands connected by bridges. I think we must have crossed about +20. Some of the villas are large with nice gardens. The Director showed +us his, which looked pretty and comfortable. The streets are narrow--not +much movement. The names of the streets are written in three +languages--Russian, Swedish, Finnish. All the functionaries are Russian, +the small merchants and shopkeepers Swedish, and the peasants and +sailors Finns. They (Finns) have a very marked type of their own, not +particularly Russian, nothing of the Tartar, only very Northern. + +We dined at the famous Cafe du Parc. W. invited the Director and the +Consul to dine with us, and we had a pleasant little dinner, fairly +good. There was a good orchestra, who had evidently been told who we +were, for as soon as we arrived they played the "Marseillaise" very +well. It caused quite a sensation among the people who were dining, as +they evidently hadn't noticed particularly the quiet party which came +in--all of us of course in travelling dresses. The chef d'orchestre +asked our Director if we would like to hear some national airs--which +they played very well, and then I asked for the Polonaise from Glinka's +"La Vie pour le Czar," which they always played in Moscow whenever the +Imperial cortege arrived. + +At 11 o'clock the Consul's steam launch came (the cafe is on the water), +and he took us all about the inner harbour, most curious and +interesting, and then outside. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and +we went sometimes so close up to one of the islands that we could have +spoken to anyone on the shore if there had been anybody to speak +to--sometimes we were in what seemed a great lake, with no perceptible +outlet. We cruised about until midnight, then went back to the hotel, +and walked down to the steamer. The light had changed--was rather like +dawn, but perfectly light. There were people and carriages, children, +badauds, loitering about the wharf. They told us a steamer had started +two or three hours earlier with tourists on board to see the midnight +sun. + +We stayed on deck about half an hour to see the depart. The light was +getting much stronger--Richard read a letter quite easily, and at 1 +o'clock, when I went down to the cabin, the sun was shining bright. I am +writing now on deck after breakfast. Young Moltke, a Dane, came on board +last night, and asked if he might have his meals with us. He too had +been at the Coronation, and found the standing all those hours very +tiring. The day is beautiful--the sea perfectly calm, and the long, lazy +hours on deck most resting. + +This morning I was interviewed by two English girls--both young and +rather pretty, the fair English type. One was a governess going back to +her place, somewhere near Stockholm, in the country; the other was just +going out on a venture, had no engagement, knew no language but her own, +and had merely made the acquaintance of the other girl on the boat. I +suggested it was rather a risk coming so far without anything definite; +but she said she was sure she would find something, and she had a +little money. I asked her how old she was--17. "How could your parents +let you start off like that?" "Oh, there are so many of us, and I am +strong." They then asked me if I would tell them something about the +Coronation--so I talked to them a few minutes. They asked me if I saw +many Nihilists--as if they were a marked class--and did the Empress look +nervous. + +I have also managed to talk a little to the stewardess, or rather to +understand her--as I have made out that she is married, and has young +children, and no one apparently to leave them with while she is cruising +about. + +I wish I could sketch, there are so many charming little bits of scenery +that I would like to bring home with me. We are getting near Abo, and I +must stop. To-night is to be our rough night in the Baltic. At the +present moment the sea is like glass, but the Captain says there is +always movement crossing over to Stockholm. I should like to go on +forever in the boat. The long, long hours on the deck with this soft +grey sea and sky, with nobody to talk to, and no dressing of any kind +are enchanting. I have got a book, Tolstoy's "Guerre et Paix," but I +don't seem to get on much--I am always looking at something. + + 8 o'clock. + +We have just got back after a lovely afternoon at Abo (the old capital +of Finland). The approach was very picturesque as we went some distance +up a narrow river to the town, which is not directly on the sea. Our +Vice-Consul was waiting on the quai with a carriage, and we drove all +over the place. It is now a dead city--all the life and interest of +Finland is absorbed by Helsingfors, but it is interesting. We saw the +Cathedral, the public gardens, and then drove some distance into the +country to see the oldest church in Finland--a little old, grey building +that looks any age. The country is very pretty, always charming views of +the sea, and a few villas dotted about, but nothing like as many as at +Helsingfors. It seems people come sometimes in summer for sea air, +bathing, and fishing, and occasionally English yachts stop a day or two. + +We got back about eight, and I am writing now before supper. We found +the boat all dressed with greens, as it is the St. Jean, and they tell +us we shall see lights, bonfires, and torches on all the little islands, +as they always celebrate the St. Jean here with greens and lights. My +next letter will be from Stockholm. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Stockholm#, + Sunday, June 24th, 1883. + +Well, Dear, we arrived at 12 o'clock this morning, and I was quite sorry +to leave the boat and my nice big cabin, and the good-natured +stewardess. Last night was enchanting. We sat on deck until 12.30. W. +treated us all to Swedish punch and cakes. It was decidedly cooler--for +the first time I had on the warm, long, blue cloth coat I started in +from Paris, and there was rather more motion. How it would amuse you--I +wish you were here. The deck looks quite picturesque--lots of little +round tables with groups of three or four people, all drinking +something, and most of them playing cards. Between 11 and 12 there is a +sort of night, or darkness, so they brought up some lamps, which looked +weird, and gave a faint, flickering light. We run sometimes so close to +the islands, between several, in a narrow channel, that one would think +it was impossible to pass, but evidently it is deep sea everywhere, and +we go steadily on without slackening. I am delighted we decided to come +by sea. It is again a most novel experience, and such a contrast to our +Moscow stay--all gold and glitter, and colour and courtiers. + +We were just getting out of the little channels and islands and making +for the open sea when I went downstairs. The captain came and sat with +us a little while, and told us where we were. Some of the lights on the +small islands looked as if they were rising straight out of the sea. The +water was grey, and the rock grey--one only saw the light. + +We didn't meet many ships--a few sailing boats as we left Abo--but no +steamers or big ships. We were up fairly early, as they told us the +entrance to Stockholm was so beautiful. Coming by water it rises +straight out of the sea like Venice. There were quantities of islands, +but much greener than those of the Finnish coast, and the cliffs higher. +Villas everywhere, close down to the water's edge, and running up the +hills. Little pleasure boats and yachts skimming all over the harbour. +As it was fete St. Jean all the peasants and country people were out in +flat-bottomed boats, crowded with women and children down to the water's +edge--the boats quite covered with green boughs and leaves, the women in +costume--a white skirt, coloured bodice embroidered in gold or +silver--silver charms and big pins in their hair. It really was +fairy-like for quite two hours before we arrived. + +We got in at twelve exactly, and breakfasted on board. The river is so +deep that big ships run straight up into the town. The American frigate, +Lancaster, which arrived last night, is anchored directly in front of +the hotel, under our windows. + +We took a most cordial leave of our Captain, who expressed great +gratification at having had us on board--hoped we were satisfied and +would recommend his boat to any of our friends who wanted to make the +same trip. W. and Richard were astounded at the cheapness of the +journey. I think they made out it was about 50 francs apiece--tout +compris. We were three nights on board, and had all our meals except the +day at Helsingfors. + +We found various people waiting for us at the quai--one of the +secretaries of our Legation--the gerant of the Hotel de l'Europe--one or +two members of the French colony here, and M. Mathias, a French engineer +who lives here. We went across to the hotel in a ferry-boat and found +charming rooms, with windows and balconies on the river. The proprietor +informed us with much pride that the last distinguished foreigner that +had occupied the apartment was Mdme. Sarah Bernhardt. + +We found quantities of letters, unpacked a little--I wasn't sorry to get +out of my blue cloth into something lighter, as it is warm. They say it +is going to rain, and it has been dull and grey all the morning. M. +Patenotre, French Minister, has sent word that he will come and see +us about 2.30. The King is here, and will receive W. The Queen and +Princesses are away, so I have nothing to do. The Royal Palace is +opposite--a big square building. + + 7 o'clock. + +Patenotre and all his Legation appeared. They brought us some picture +papers with the Coronation, proclamation (the Heralds dressed in cloth +of gold, and preceded by trumpeters) and ball. They say the Graphic is +the best, but they hadn't it, you might perhaps, June 10th. We went for +a drive with M. Mathias, who will be our cicerone here, as he knows +Stockholm well. We went to the Royal Park, which is handsome--fine old +trees and allees, and to the Observatory, from which generally there is +a beautiful view of Stockholm and its surroundings--but it was grey and +misty, raining even a little, so we didn't see much. + +We are to dine quietly here and go after dinner to a camp where soldiers +and peasants play games and dance and sing, in honour of St. Jean. + +The river is still covered with little green boats darting about in +every direction. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Hotel D'europe, Stockholm,# + Monday, June 25th, 1883. + +My Dear, this is the most enchanting place. The sun is out this morning, +and the river and green hills too lovely. The river is most animated, +quantities of sail boats and ordinary little rowing boats flying about +in all directions, and plenty of life on the quais. Our expedition +last night was not very successful. M. Mathias came to dinner early, at +7 (almost everyone dines at 6), and we went off to the camp. It was a +pretty drive all along the river, and would have been nice if it had +been clear, but it was a cold, grey evening, and began to rain a little +before we got home. We found plenty of people looking on--various +carriages drawn up, and it is evidently a thing to do--on a fine night +people get out and walk about in the crowd, but as it was misting a +little and decidedly muddy, we merely looked on from the carriage. One +of the military bands played very well, a sort of quickstep, and the +people danced with a certain entrain, but there were no particular +steps, nor national dances, nothing very different from what one +would see in a French assemblee when the people dance on the pelouse +before the Mairie. When they were all dancing round a may-pole dressed +with greens, it was pretty, with soldiers and the Dalecarlian +women--there were policemen, but not many, and the people looked quite +peaceable and happy, evidently enjoying themselves immensely. There were +quite a number of children--little tots that looked as if they could +just walk, joining in the ring. Some of the costumes were pretty. The +Dalecarlian women looked well--they wear a high black cap which is very +effective on their fair hair, which is plaited in heavy braids, and goes +around the head like a turban; a white bodice, bright coloured apron, +and gold or silver charms and hair-pins. The language sounded hard--no +more the soft Russian tongue--and, alas! I am afraid no more the long, +beautiful Russian twilight. The sky is grey and the clouds low. They +say we are going to have a spell of rain. + +Mathias says the language is not at all difficult to learn, and it is +absolutely necessary to know it, particularly for anyone who is here in +any sort of business capacity. + +We got home about 10 and went in to pay a visit to the Baldwins, who +have the rooms next to us. They had intended going too to the camp, but +the rain frightened them off. We told them they hadn't missed much. The +Admiral is charming--has been everywhere, seen everything, and takes +such a practical American view of everything. He was not at all +impressed with all the magnificence of Moscow--"All show (not much of a +one) and hollow. What is there underneath?" However, I said I thought +the show was pretty good as far as it went, and certainly no other +country in the world could offer such a sight; to which he replied, +smilingly, that I had been so long away from America that I had +forgotten what it was like. I stuck to my guns, and said that certainly +not all the intelligence, energy, education, and money of America could +produce such a pageant. What was so wonderful was the contrast. All the +modern life and luxury grafted upon that old half-Eastern, half-barbaric +world. I think I shall never again see anything like the dinner of the +Emperor and Empress the day of the Coronation. It looked exactly like +some old mediaeval picture as they sat there in their robes and crowns in +that old dark-vaulted room of the old palace. We had quite an animated +discussion. I fancy he always takes the opposite side on principle. + +This morning we have been very energetic. Mathias came at 10 o'clock, +and we started off sight-seeing. We walked across to the Palace, which +is directly opposite, and were there about an hour. There is not much to +see, the rooms are large and high, all very simply furnished. Those that +give on the river are very gay with all the water life of the city +passing under the windows. There is one large gallery "des glaces" +rather like the famous one at Versailles, which they told us was +beautiful when it was lighted. There are quantities of portraits +everywhere, and these, of course, are interesting; also some fine china, +large vases. We saw, of course, Bernadotte's room, left exactly as it +was when he died there. It was a curious mixture of French and Swedish, +several French papers and brochures lying about on the tables just as he +had left them, quite yellow with age and the print fading, also +note-books and "projets de loi" annotes in his handwriting. They say he +never knew a word of Swedish and yet was so popular. There was a fine +portrait of him over the fireplace, a handsome man, with fine soldierly +bearing. + +We found a nice open carriage waiting for us at the door of the Palace +and drove off to Drottningholm, one of the Royal residences on Lake +Malar. The drive was charming, through pretty green country, and as soon +as we came near the Lake, villas (generally white) in every direction. +We crossed various little arms of the lake before we arrived at the +Chateau. It is an enormous pile, and stands very well in a large park. +The Governor, a fine old soldier (who rather reminded me of Marshal +MacMahon), was waiting for us with his son, and showed us everything. +The rooms are large and bright and exceedingly simple. It seems the +Royal Family are very fond of the place. There is so much room that they +can have as many people staying as they like, and they all live on the +water. We drove through the park, and saw the Governor's villa, not far +from the Palace. As we had been going since 10 o'clock the idea of tea +was not disagreeable, so we consulted our coachman (at least Mathias +did, as we couldn't talk), and he told us there was a good little cafe +in the park, at one end, far from the Chateau, where the public were +allowed, so we stopped there and had a very good cup of tea. It was cool +and green, and we rather liked sitting there with the lake before us in +the drowsy quiet of a summer afternoon. However we had to get back to +Stockholm, as W. had to make a visit to the Ministre es Affaires +Etrangeres. He sent him word just as we were starting that the King +would receive him to-morrow at one o'clock. He must also see if he can +borrow anywhere a Swedish grand cordon. He sent all his decorations +back to Paris with his uniform, quite forgetting that he might want some +on his way home, and they tell him he must have his, that the King is +very particular about such matters, and wouldn't be at all pleased if he +presented himself without his order. Patenotre's is no good, as it isn't +the same order. + +We left W. the carriage and walked home, stopping and looking at all the +shop windows. I don't know that there is much to buy, but we are going +on a real shopping expedition to-morrow morning. Mathias showed us some +queer old streets and houses and a famous shop where there were all +sorts of fishing outfits. He is very anxious that we should go on to +Norway, see Christiania and some of the famous fiords. He says the +country is much finer than any part of Sweden, and there is much more +"couleur locale." It is just the season for it. I should like it +extremely, but I am afraid W. won't. He wants to get home, and must stay +three or four days at Copenhagen, where there is a fine collection of +medals. + +Now I am sitting writing at the window, waiting until it is time to +dress for dinner at the Legation. The river is a perpetual enjoyment, +always something going on. A big boat has just put off from the American +man-of-war. The men look a fine sturdy lot, and come up in great style +with a good, long stroke. They attract much attention, for as soon as +the boat left the ship a little crowd gathered and watched their +progress. + +Here is W., who enjoyed his visit to the minister very much--found him +easy and intelligent, and much interested in the Coronation. They will +send him a plaque and a ribbon from the jewellers, so he will be quite +correct to-morrow. Adelaide is much disturbed because I have neither +fine dress nor jewels for the dinner to-night. It really is not of the +slightest consequence, as I am the only lady (Patenotre is a bachelor), +and we are going to the gardens afterwards. I shall wear Delannoy's +blue and white striped silk, half long, and take my hat in my hand, as +it must go on for our outing. + + 12 o'clock. + +We have just come in from our dinner, which was pleasant and very good, +merely the three, Mathias, Patenotre, and one of his secretaries, M. de +Bondy. The house is large, nice, and looks very pretty, as the Minister +has been both in China and Persia and has brought back some beautiful +things, carpets, tentures, and curios of all kinds. He evidently didn't +find Pekin a very pleasant or healthy residence, says the cold is +something awful. He likes Stockholm, says the Swedes are pleasant, +kindly people, lead simple lives, and do all they can to make it +pleasant for the Corps Diplomatique. There are few large fortunes--very +little life, and little private entertaining. The Court gives several +balls and dinners every year. + +About 8.30 we went off to the gardens and restaurant Haselbach, where +all the beau monde of Stockholm assembles in summer, but the season is +over and there were not many people there--of _Society_; _people_ there +were, plenty. The gardens are large, well lighted, a very good band was +playing, and everyone walking up and down the broad allees, or seated at +little tables with tea and punch. We sat there about an hour. Patenotre +pointed out various notabilities to us, but said he didn't know many +people. + +Now we are discussing routes with maps and books. We shall start for +Copenhagen to-morrow night via Malmo, and must send in the morning to +engage our sleepings. It is a long journey. We leave here at 8.30, +and don't get to Copenhagen until 4.30 the next day. + + Tuesday, June 26th. + +It is lovely again this morning. Richard and I and Mathias have been +wandering about the streets shopping. There isn't much to buy--Norwegian +knives with carved wooden handles in a leather case, Scandinavian +charms, buckles, and brooches roughly worked, but rather pretty and +curious shapes--furs, too, of course, but we didn't want any more. I was +rather tempted by a large white stuffed bear. I thought it would look so +well in the hall in the country; but of course the only reason to have a +bear in the house is when you shot it yourself, and that was not +possible in the streets of Stockholm in the month of June. The day is +divine--sky blue and water dancing. The whole aspect of the place is +much gayer than anything we saw in Russia. People don't look sad or +preoccupied; there are always badauds hanging over the bridges and +exchanging jokes or remarks with the watermen. + +Richard and I breakfasted tete-a-tete, as W. had gone off for his Royal +audience. His plaque and grand cordon came in time from the jeweller, +so he was quite proper. I shall go and see about the trunks, and as soon +as W. comes back we shall start again for some last sightseeing, the +Museum, churches, etc. We dine at 6 and start at 8 from the hotel. +Richard has decided to wait a day longer and go and see the Falls of +Upsala, which are quite worth seeing. Mathias will go with him, and +he will join us at Copenhagen Thursday. The Baldwins have just come in +to say good-bye. They, too, are leaving to-morrow. + +I will finish, as I have a quiet hour before dinner. I left the +gentlemen at the Museum, as I was not very well, and thought better to +rest a little before starting this evening. W. came in a little after +two, having enjoyed the hour with the King very much. He says he is a +tall, handsome man, very intelligent, and well up in everything. He +received him quite informally in his cabinet de travail, which he said +had also been Bernadotte's. There was a good picture of him on the +walls. He was much interested in the Coronation, though he had heard all +about it already from his son, but he was anxious to have W.'s +impressions. He said _he_ personally had never been very anxious about a +Nihilist plot at that time. He didn't think they would choose that +opportunity. He was much interested in everything French, literature, +politics, theatres, and asked W. if he was going back to Petersburg as +Ambassador. He also asked him if he had ever been in America, as he +believed he had married an American, and was much surprised to hear he +had never crossed the big pond. He told him too just what some of the +Swedish diplomats told me, that all his best young men went to America. +They got such high wages, and got on so well, that they were all +leaving Sweden. I remember Sandford telling us years ago in Paris, that +all the workmen on his orange plantations in Florida were Swedes. + +[Illustration: M. William Waddington From a copyright photograph by +Russell & Son] + +W. had just time to get out of his dress clothes, and send back his +order when Mathias appeared, and we went for a last tournee. First to +the Church des Chevaliers, where all the Swedish Kings are buried, up +and down some old streets where there are curious old houses, and +wound up at the Museum. I only stayed there half an hour, saw some of +the pictures and souvenirs of Charles IX, and then came home, leaving +the others. + +Now we have finished packing, I have on my travelling dress, and am +seated quietly at the window with my book, Tolstoy's "La Guerre et la +Paix," but I don't make much progress--I am always looking out. A +big steam yacht has just come in--ran straight up the river alongside of +the "Lancaster." About twenty little boats have immediately started out, +going close up to the yacht, and they have sent off a steam launch, +which has come up to the wharf in about five minutes. + +Patenotre and his secretary have come to say good-bye, and to say that +all the orders are given for this evening, and we shall have our +sleepings. I wonder if you have seen Pontecoulant. He said he would go +at once to find you. He has been saving up all he heard about the +Americans and their frock coats and grey trousers (when everyone else +was covered with gold embroidery and orders) for you, and hopes to get a +good rise out of you. + +My next letter will be from Copenhagen--then Hamburg and home. The +gentlemen have come in--found the Museum very interesting, and we shall +dine in a few minutes, so this must stop and will go off from here by +the evening courier. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Copenhagen#, + Wednesday, June 27th, 1883. + +We arrived at one o'clock to-day, Dear, not tired at all, as our journey +was easy. We had a capital waggon, a large sleeping carriage, a bed on +each side, and a good toilette. We started punctually at 8.30, through +fairly pretty country, nothing very picturesque, but a general +impression of verdure. At 10.30 we stopped somewhere, had tea, and the +man came and made the beds. I slept quite well. We took the steamer at +Malmo, breakfasted on board, and enjoyed the crossing. The sea was +beautiful and there were quantities of boats of all kinds. There was a +thick fog for about half an hour, which was very uncomfortable, for we +knew how many boats there were all around us, and as soon as our own +whistle stopped, we heard many others unpleasantly near. However it +lifted as we neared Copenhagen. + +The approach is good, but not nearly so fine as Stockholm. There are no +islands and the country all about is very flat. The quantity of boats of +all kinds made it a very pretty sight. We found M. de Kergorlay, Charge +d'Affaires, waiting for us on the quai with a carriage, and drove at +once to the hotel. We wanted a little time to change, read our letters +(we found a quantity, two from you), which you may imagine I was glad to +have. I am so glad the boy has kept well--I am getting very homesick for +him now that our faces are turned homewards. M. de Kergorlay said he +would come back at 4 and take us a drive. W. too found various letters +and papers. We started again at 4 and had a beautiful drive to the "Deer +Park" for some distance along the sea, with quantities of villas, +casinos, cafes with music all the way. There were some very pretty +carriages, officers riding, and every description of pleasure boat, big +and small, on the sea. Just as we were leaving the sea and turning into +the forest we met a big break, with the Prince Royal driving himself and +his family. The carriage was full of children. He recognized of course +Kergorlay, then W.--however they are all in the country. We shall have +no visits nor audiences of any kind. I am rather sorry not to see the +Prince. He was in Paris and dined with us the Exhibition year, when W. +was at the Quai d'Orsay, and I found him most sympathetic, and very +good-looking. + +It was so pretty driving through the deer park. We had tea in one of the +casinos, standing high over the sea, with a splendid view. We dined +quietly at the hotel at a small table in the dining-room. We saw there +General Appert and his family dining. They had come to Copenhagen +to see their son, who is military attache here (Madame Appert is a +Dane), also Harry Whitehouse, who said they were in the country, but not +far, and would certainly come in and see us. I have written a few notes +since dinner, and W. has also sent one to be given early to-morrow +morning to the Conservateur des Medailles at the Museum. The hotel is +very comfortable, we have an enormous salon on the front, and good +bedrooms. Adelaide has fraternised with the Apperts' maid, and is +delighted to have a compatriote to go about with. I was interrupted, as +W. suggested we should go out and make a little turn in the streets +while he smoked a cigar. The town is much less gay than Stockholm. All +the houses are built of grey stone, and are high and narrow, rather like +New York. There are a good many people in the streets and in the trams, +of which there seem plenty. + + Thursday, June 28th. + +It is again a beautiful day, and at 10 o'clock W. and I started. I took +Adelaide, for I knew W. would be absorbed at once by the medals, and I +didn't care to come home alone. We were received with much empressement +by the Director. As I supposed, the Conservateur des Medailles carried +off W. at once, and a sub. of some kind was deputed to show me the +Historical Museum, which really is very interesting, costumes and +interior groups of figures of the whole world. They say it is very +exact, but what a work it must have been. We saw it very well and fairly +quickly, as it wasn't a public day, and the young man only showed us +what was worth seeing. We walked home. It wasn't far, and he explained +the route to us. I really needed the exercise. The town is decidedly +gloomy, even in the bright sunlight, and might be any Northern town +anywhere. + +I breakfasted alone at a small table in the dining-room, and had the big +room almost to myself--two gentlemen were breakfasting at one end. +Almost as soon as I got upstairs I had some visits. First Richard +appeared, very pleased with his excursion, said it would have been a +pity not to see the Falls, being so near; then came Col. Wyckham Hoffman +and Whitehouse. Hoffman was much interested in hearing about the +Coronation, as he was five years secretary in Russia and knew all the +people. He and Mrs. Hoffman are at Elsinore for the summer and want us +very much to come down and dine and stay over night, but I am afraid we +can't. W. wants all his time here for the coins, and it would take quite +a day to really see the place. Kergorlay came with a carriage at three, +and he and I and Richard started again for the same drive. It seems all +Copenhagen does it every afternoon. The sea looked enchanting, and I +think there were more boats than yesterday--several big steamers, +English bound they tell us--and such quantities of pleasure boats. We +drove rather further into the forest, as we had more time. It is really +very lovely--had tea in another casino with the same view of the sea. We +met various private carriages with good horses, a certain number were +breaks full of nurses and children; and some rather smart-looking +officers well mounted. We didn't meet the Royal break again. It seems +they are all (a big family party) at one of their chateaux near +Copenhagen, and come into town very often. Kergorlay seems to like +Copenhagen--not the climate, he says it is cold and foggy, there are +days when one never sees the sun. It makes rather a gloomy impression +on me. If I lived here I too would want to come every day to the Deer +Park, which wouldn't be convenient perhaps for domestic arrangements. + +The streets are curiously banal--I wonder why? Of course one didn't +expect to find the colour and half-Eastern look of Moscow, nor the gay +half "bains-de mer" impression of Stockholm, but I am disappointed. One +thinks of Danes as descendants of the Vikings, heroes, enormous men with +long limbs and yellow hair. Do you remember the poem we were so mad +about in the days of our youth, "Word was brought to the Danish King +that the love of his heart lay dying"? I can see Mrs. Lawrence sitting +at the table, and reading it in her full rich voice. I don't remember +now who wrote it, but I am sure you will--and Copenhagen looks +singularly unpoetical and modern. We found W. on the balcony when we got +back, with his papers and his cigar, just tired enough after a long +day's work in the Museum to appreciate a quiet hour. It has been warm +all day, and is still. We felt the difference as soon as we turned into +the streets, and we haven't the river under our windows as we had at +Stockholm, and always a breeze. + + 4 o'clock. + +Richard and I are just back from an expedition to Tivoli--the great +garden here. We dined quietly at home, and I tried to persuade W. to +come with us to the garden, but he declined absolutely, so we left him +talking and smoking with General Appert, and we two started off in a +fiacre. We were rather pleased with ourselves and the way we got along +in a strange place and a strange tongue. We even made out strawberries +and cream--"med" and something else I forget now. I don't know which was +strawberries and which was cream, but we got them, and _med_ was +evidently one or the other. The garden is very pretty, very well +arranged, with every variety of entertainment. We sat and listened to +the band (a very good one, military) while we had _med_ and ----, and +then went into one or two of the small theatres and concert halls. All +this too was modern, might have been Paris or London. We saw one or two +of our diplomatic friends disporting themselves at one of the theatres +where there were "poses plastiques" very well done. I think they were +"en garcon"--the pink flower hats they were alongside of didn't give me +a family impression. + +We rather enjoyed our evening lounging about. A fortune teller, a rather +pretty girl, evidently wished to tell our fortunes, _that_ we made out +by signs and the cards she had spread out before her, but we didn't +think our knowledge of the Danish tongue was sufficient to understand +all she would tell us of a brilliant future. Richard is delightful to go +about with. He likes to see everything and know about everything, and +certainly succeeds in some curious way getting all the information he +wants. W. was poring over his notes when we got back. We told him all +our experiences, and then talked a little about our day to-morrow. + + Friday, June 29th. + +It has been frightfully hot all day. I stayed at home all the morning. +W. and Richard went off early to the Museum. I had a visit from +Kergorlay. He has an interesting face, is a widower, poor fellow, with +four children, one boy of two and a half. They say he is so devoted to +the children. I told him I should like to see them, and he will send +them--at any rate we shall see them to-morrow night, as we dine at the +Legation. Richard came back to breakfast. He said it was cool enough +in the Museum, and we started off for the Thorwaldsen Gallery. Of course +some of the statues and has reliefs are very fine, but they are +enormous, almost more than life size. We went on to the Frauen Kirche to +see his statues of the 12 Apostles which are there. They were strangely +familiar. We must have seen them reproduced in plaster at home. Both St. +Peter and St. John I knew quite well, and didn't like them much. While +we were loitering about the church the suisse told us a wedding was just +going to take place, it might perhaps amuse us to see it, so we stepped +into one of the side aisles and saw the cortege. The bride was the +regulation white-veiled figure, I think she had a _green_ wreath (it may +have been myrtle like the German brides), the man was in uniform. What +was really interesting was the dress of the two pastors. They wore black +coats with white ruffles, just as they did in Luther's time. That +reconciled me a little to this very uninteresting town. + +It was still very warm, but we did a little shopping, photographs and +one or two trifles. Richard leaves to-night at 7.30, and we shall dine +early with him. He is to stop a day or two with Mary at Meiningen, pick +up his mother who is there, and bring her back to France. Mary wanted us +to come, and I wish we could have managed it. It would have been nice to +have been there all together, and they would have enjoyed hearing all +our impressions while they were so absolutely fresh, particularly +Charles, who leads a very quiet life now ever since his accident at the +Quai d'Orsay. It is extraordinary how the last thing seen remains in +one's memory. Already Moscow and that splendid pageant is fading a +little, and I see Stockholm, and the green islands, and the dancing +river. + + Saturday, June 30th. + +It is still frightfully hot--not a breath of air. I have made as much of +a draught as I can by opening the door into the passage. It isn't very +convenient, as we are just at the head of the big staircase, but I have +put a high-backed arm-chair between me and the passers by. It was really +very warm until 11 o'clock last night. We dined downstairs with Richard, +and were very sorry to see him go. Then we went to Mrs. Baldwin (the +Admiral had gone off for two days) to ask her if she would drive with +us. We made the usual turn, the only variety being our tea place--we +take a new one every time. The gerant of the hotel explains to the +coachman where to go, and he chooses very well. It was lovely driving, +and so cool on the top of the cliff that we walked about a little after +tea. There is always a long, clear evening, not like Russia, but still +very pleasant and pretty, such a soft light over everything. The moment +we turned away from the sea back into the town we felt the difference, +but the long drive had cooled us. I have asked for my breakfast upstairs +in the salon. I really can't dress and sit in that hot room in this +weather. W. is at the Museum, but comes back at 4 with the Director, who +is to show us some of the treasures of the town. I am getting on very +well here with "La Guerre et la Paix," as I am not distracted all the +time as I was at Stockholm. I think you would like it, the _Russian_ +side of Napoleon's great campaign is so interesting, also the +pictures of the society of Moscow at that time, which they say is +extremely well done. + +W. came in about 4, not very warm, as he says the rooms of the Museum +are cool, with such thick walls, and while we were waiting for Monsieur +Warsoe, the Directeur, Mr. Vivian, English Minister, paid us a visit. He +is very anxious we should come and see them at Elsinore, says it is most +interesting (all memories of Hamlet). I should like it extremely, but W. +thinks we must get home. I liked Vivian very much. He talked very easily +about everything--he is going to dine with us at Kergorlay's, says all +the colleagues are most anxious to hear about the Coronation. M. Warsoe +appeared about 4.30 and we drove at once to Rosenburg, an old chateau +where there is a fine collection of all sorts of things. Some of the +Danish porcelain was lovely, also some fine tapestries. They showed us +with much pride their tresor, jewels, and gold and silver services, but +really after Moscow and the quantities of gold, silver, enamel, crowns, +and jewels of all sorts that one had seen the others made no effect, +though of course there were some handsome stones, rubies. What I did +like was the 4 lions (couchant) of massive silver, which are always put +at each side of the throne whenever there is a great ceremony at Court. +They must look splendid. + +We went again to the Frauen Kirche, as W. had not seen it, and the +second time I liked the Apostles better, a little better. I think it was +too hot, and I was too tired when I was there before. We drove out to an +old bridge, which was curious, and in some old street where I had never +penetrated. The trams worry me, they are so frightfully civilized and +up-to-date, however they were crowded, so evidently the Danes are not of +my way of thinking. + +Our dinner at Kergorlay's was very pleasant and handsome. Adelaide was +again frightfully put out at my garment, and she is right, it is really +a street dress, and this time there are several women. I don't know why +I didn't keep out _one_ evening dress. It was rather stupid to send +everything back. However, I made my excuses to the ladies, and said I +was "en touriste." They were all very elegantes, though they were all +already settled in the country, and went off about 10 o'clock by the +last train. Kergorlay's children came in before dinner. The eldest girl +is 10, and the baby two and a half. It was so pathetic to see them in +their white dresses and black sashes and to think whom the mourning was +for. The dinner was very gay. We had Count and Countess Toll (he is +Russian Minister here, and a brother of Countess Pahlen), Marochetti +(Italian Minister) and his wife (a Frenchwoman, nee Grandval), Vivian +(she didn't come, was in the country and rather exhausted with the great +heat), General and Madame Appert, and two secretaries. Count Toll was +very keen to hear all about Moscow, and what we thought of the great +show (he speaks English quite well). I told him we were enchanted, and +that one of the great features was Comte Pahlen with his velvet coat and +white staff of office with a big sapphire at the top. He certainly took +no end of trouble, and looked his part very well. They all seem to like +Copenhagen pretty well, except for the climate, which seems most trying. +Countess Toll was in white with handsome pearls. I felt rather like a +pensionnaire in my simple little dress--foolish, too; I ought to have +known better. + +We got home quite early, so I can still have a little Tolstoy before I +go to bed. Adelaide instantly inquired what the other ladies had on and +was much put out. "C'etait Madame l'Ambassadrice qui etait le plus +mal"--"oh! cela oui, et de beaucoup." I suppose it reflects upon the +femme de chambre when the mistress is not up to the mark. + + Sunday, July 1st. + +It is still frightfully hot. I did not go out all morning, though they +sent a notice of services at the English Church. We shall leave +to-morrow night for Hamburg. W. says two days more of medals will give +him all he wants. After breakfast I went to see Mrs. Baldwin, whom I +found gasping, sitting with open doors and windows; also Madame Appert, +who looked quite cool and comfortable, as did her two daughters, pretty +girls; however, they said they didn't feel cool. When I got back to our +rooms I found several cards, and then Mrs. Hoffman appeared. She was +very nice and friendly, sent all sorts of messages to you and Anne, and +wished Anne would come and stay with her at Elsinore. She likes +Copenhagen very much, says the people are friendly and hospitable and +invite the diplomats; also that some of the country places are very +fine, quite in the English style. She made a great appeal to me to come +to Elsinore with her this afternoon, I could come back to-morrow in +plenty of time for the night train, but I couldn't manage. W. was still +at the Museum, and would have been in a great state of mind if he had +come home and found not me but a note saying I had departed for +Elsinore. While she was still here, young Moltke appeared, our compagnon +de voyage from Helsingfors to Stockholm. He hopes to be sent to Paris or +London. I told him if it was Paris he must look us up. He is a very nice +young fellow, very good-looking, tall, and fair. + +We have had our usual drive. We dined at 5 and started out rather +earlier. If possible there were more people than we had ever seen +before, as it was Sunday and fete. All Copenhagen, high and low, were on +their way to the Deer Park. A stream of conveyances of all descriptions, +some peasants' carts with straw at the bottom filled with women and +children, everybody in a good humour. There were fewer officers riding, +and fewer big boats on the sea, but endless little pleasure yachts. As +we came back it was really a pretty sight, all the cafes, casinos, etc., +brilliantly lighted, all the villas, too, and people sitting on the +verandas, some playing cards, some at tea tables, some walking about in +the gardens, we could see the light dresses fluttering about in the +shrubberies; animation, laughter, voices, music everywhere. We stopped +as usual for tea at one of the high casinos--the sea blue and calm at +our feet some distance down, and the whole summer out-door life of +Copenhagen behind in the woods and hills. It was delicious driving back, +and even the streets were pretty to-night, so many people, and the cool +air such a relief after the terrible heat of the day. We have decided to +start at 8.30 to-morrow evening. + +I tried to glean some information from a Danish paper this afternoon. +Col. Hoffman told me that if one knew English or German one could read +Danish quite well, giving oneself a little trouble, but I can't say that +was my experience. It might have been Hebrew for all I made out. I +suppose I didn't keep at it long enough. It doesn't sound easy when one +hears the language spoken all about one, rather harsh. I mastered a +little Swedish (to understand it) much more easily. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Copenhagen#, + Monday, July 2d, 1883. + +The heat is something awful to-day,--I think the worst day we have had. +I was up early, as the salon is cooler than the bedroom, more doors and +windows. W. is off to his medals until 5, and we leave to-night for +Hamburg. The trunks are made (almost for the last time), as we shall +stay only one night in Hamburg, and arrive in Paris Thursday morning. I +had a nice visit from Kergorlay. He can't come to the station to see us +off, as he dines with the King in the country, but will send his +chancelier to see about places, luggage, etc. We talked a great deal +about his children. He feels such a responsibility, and it is hard for a +man to have such a young family to look after. He said their mother was +so devoted to them--it seems hard she couldn't have been left to them a +little longer. + +I breakfasted downstairs, had a little talk with the Apperts, and then +went to the reading-room for a little while to see if there was any +news. The Comte de Chambord is very ill, dying they say. I wonder if his +death will make any difference now--I suppose not. He has been only a +memory practically all these years, as he never came to France, and only +a few, a very few fideles clung to him in his exile. I must say I rather +admired him always. According to his lights (limited I grant), he was +absolutely consistent. + +I had another visit from Col. Hoffman, who came to see if we were really +going to-night. We have a despatch from Richard saying that we will have +much difficulty in getting into any hotel in Hamburg--the town is very +full. There are races going on, also a scientific congress of some +kind--however, the proprietor of this hotel says it is all right, they +will keep us rooms. W. came in at 5, having been working steadily since +9.30 this morning. He took a cordial leave of the various Conservateurs +and Directors, but thinks they were not sorry to see him go, and take up +their quiet life, two or three hours a day in the cabinet instead of 6 +or 7. + +My next letter will be from Hamburg--and after that I will _tell_ all I +have seen and done, which will be much easier than writing. + + #Railway Station, Kiel, 7 A.M.,# + + Tuesday, July 3d. + +We have two hours to wait here, so I will scribble a line to you, which +will help to pass the time. We got off very early last night. Some of +the young men from the Legation were waiting at the station with a +servant to help us with our baggage. It really was not necessary, as we +have only two trunks, and the porter of the hotel is most helpful and +energetic. It was very warm even at that hour, and the compartment was +stuffy, a good many passengers. We got to Korsoe about 11. The boat was +directly opposite the station, and we went on board at once. There was +some delay getting the baggage on board, so we sat quietly on deck and +had our tea, and cooled off. The cabin felt so hot when I went down to +leave my things that I couldn't make up my mind to install myself, +particularly as the crossing (the Belt) was short, about 5 hours. The +Captain said we should arrive between 4 and 5 at Kiel. We stayed on deck +till nearly one o'clock. It was a lovely night, the sea quite calm, but +a good breeze once outside, which freshened considerably as we drew away +from the land. + +I went down about one, but didn't get much sleep, and was quite ready to +go up on deck when they called me at 4.30, and said we were approaching +Kiel. Almost all the passengers were on deck. The approach is not +particularly interesting. I heard two gentlemen discussing us in +English. They had seen our trunks all labelled _Waddington, +Couronnement_, had taken renseignements from the Captain, who assured +them W. was the French Ambassador. They thought he must be mistaken. +"That man is an Englishman--he is speaking English now to the lady--I +have heard them talking always in English. They certainly are not +French." They hovered about us, and then looked rather bewildered, for +Adelaide came up to ask me something, and then W. and I finished our +talk in French. We speak sometimes French, sometimes English, it depends +upon our milieu. + +The harbour is fine as one gets up to it. How hard for the Danes to give +it up, and how they must hate the Germans. We got off about 5.30. The +city was still wrapped in sleep. We walked about a little, and it was a +curious sensation to walk about in apparently a dead town. We had some +breakfast at the station, and have been out again. Then (7 o'clock) the +town was quite lively, workmen moving about. We shall start in about a +quarter of an hour, and have about two hours and a half to Hamburg. The +long wait here has been tiresome, nearly three hours. The movement on +the water and the quais was amusing, but really until after 7 not a soul +was stirring, at least not in this quarter, and no trains coming or +going. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Hamburg#, + Tuesday, July 3d, 1883. + +No words can tell, Dear, how uncomfortable we are, hot and cross. We +arrived at 11, after a very hot, dusty journey. The town is crammed, +even at this hotel where they had kept rooms for us (and such nasty +little rooms, a small salon, giving on the street it is true, so that we +can see all that goes on, and two minute bedrooms on one side) we can't +get our trunks, nor apparently our breakfast. The hotel people are quite +affoles. There are races (with a German Prince of some kind either +presiding or running horses, I can't make out which), "a horticultural +show, a cattle fair, (and an anniversary of something)." + +We said we would take a carriage this afternoon and drive about the +city, and we might just as well have asked for a balloon--nothing to be +had before 7 o'clock. I should think every carriage in Hamburg was +out--quantities of all kinds and large omnibuses are passing under the +windows, filled with women in light dresses, and a generally festive +appearance. They hope to give us one then. + +We have had breakfast--the dining-room large, fairly cool, and empty (as +it was late everyone had breakfasted and flown). They brought us the +Figaro. The Comte de Chambord is dead, and the Comte de Paris starting +for the funeral. Just as we had got upstairs again the man of the hotel +came and asked if Madame l'Ambassadrice de France would receive Madame +l'Ambassadrice de France. We were rather puzzled, but said of course we +would receive anyone who came, and in walked M. et Mdme. de Courcel, and +M. de Pina, our Consul here, M. de Sancy, the military attache at +Berlin. We were delighted to see them. The Courcels had been paying a +visit to the Duke of Sagan in his splendid place, and, being not far +from Hamburg, had come on to see the town. They were going to the races +with M. de Pina, and wanted us to come, but we didn't care to (and +indeed I don't know how we should have gone, as they had a small +carriage which just held them, and we had none). M. de Pina asked us to +dine with the Courcels at 8.30, and that we were very glad to do, as the +prospect of a dinner in the big dining-room, with all the crowd of +hungry people back from the various festivities, was not alluring. Pina +told us as we couldn't get a carriage we had better take one of the +small steamers that ply about in the inner harbour, and have an hour's +sail. He was sure we would find it pretty and interesting. It would +certainly be cooler than sitting in that stuffy little salon. + +There is nothing to see now in the streets, as the whole population is +out of town, and the rumbling of carriages has ceased for the moment. W. +is lying back in an arm-chair, with a cigar, in his shirt sleeves, +groaning with the heat; and very hot it must be to reduce him to that +state. I have a theory that no Waddington knows what heat means. No +words can describe what I feel. Certainly fine feathers make fine birds, +and I think no one would recognize the gold embroidered, bejewelled +couple that went in the coupe d'Orsay to the gala dinner at the Palace. + + 11 o'clock. + +We are just in from the Consul's dinner, and as it is cooler in the +salon with the windows open than in my room, I will finish my letter +to-night. We start to-morrow morning at 9 o'clock for Cologne and Paris. +Now that we are getting so near I am very homesick for the boy, and for +my own house. The constant moving about and living in hotels for the +last fortnight has been tiring. I have got nothing left either to say to +anybody--I have described the Coronation so many times that it is almost +mechanical now--the words come by themselves--a steady stream, like the +paper that rolls off the telegrams. I think I should never do for a +_permanent_ Ambassadress if six weeks of functions have exhausted me +physically and mentally. As usual tho' last impressions are the +strongest. I have already forgotten Moscow a little, and see the journey +from Petersburg to Stockholm more clearly than anything else. I am sorry +now that I didn't write a regular journal. Almost all the gentlemen did, +and it would have been no trouble if I had made up my mind to it, and +written regularly, but unfortunately my writing-table at Maison Klein +was on the court, and as soon as I established myself all sorts of +interesting things immediately began to take place under the window, and +the ink was bad and thick, and I got it all over my fingers, and even up +in my hair--I hate so to write. + +We sat all the afternoon indoors until 6 o'clock, when a little breeze +sprang up, and we walked down a few steps only to the wharf from which +the little steamers sail. It is about an hour, the tour round the lake, +or inner harbour--quite charming--all the shores covered with pretty +houses and villas, with lawns, and gardens full of flowers, sloping down +to the water's edge. One would never have dreamed of finding anything so +pretty and so _country_ in this very business-like place. Many of the +villas had nice little jetties and piers that ran out quite far into the +water, and pretty boats and boat-houses. It seemed incredible to find +all this so close to the hot, crowded hotel where we had been all day. +The boat was quite full--principally business men going back to dine and +sleep at their country houses--all Germans--we were certainly the only +foreigners on the boat. It rather reminded me of Staten Island at +home--the afternoon boat with all the business men on board, only one +didn't have the broad expanse of the beautiful New York Bay, but a small +land-locked lake. + +The sail and breeze (such as it was) revived us, and we had time to +dress comfortably for our dinner. We didn't see the great port--divined +it only, with the forest of masts of all sizes. + +Our dinner was very pretty and pleasant. Our host was some time in +Holland, and has some lovely specimens of blue Delft, and some fine +carved furniture. We had only M. and Mdme. de Courcel (who arrived very +late, having been caught in the file of carriages coming from the +races), M. de Sancy, the first magistrate of the city, the Burgomaster, +all in black, a plain tight coat, with a white fraise, very stiff and +high around his neck, and a long gold chain. Also two of the principal +merchants of Hamburg--the Courcels were staying with one of them, as +they could get no rooms anywhere. The house was almost shut up--all the +family out of town, and a femme de charge to look after them. They said +the rooms were very comfortable, and they took their meals at a +restaurant or with M. de Pina, who is certainly most hospitable. + +W. was delighted to see Courcel and tell him all about the Coronation, +and his impressions of all the people he had seen. The Burgomaster, too, +was very keen to hear what we thought about everything. He is a clever +old man, speaking French fairly well. They all evidently think there is +much discontent in Russia, and some day there will be a great +upheaving--de Sancy told me that Radziwill, Aide-de-Camp to the German +Emperor, told him that our equipages, horses, etc., were so good. We +thought so, but were not perhaps quite impartial. Richard says we all +used to sit up talking after every ceremony, and say how well we did +things. + +After dinner M. de Pina showed us some of his curios, which are +interesting and very well arranged. One of the two merchants, I quite +forget the name, has a beautiful villa on the Elbe, some little distance +from Hamburg, and wants us very much to come and make them a visit. I +was much tempted--it would be amusing to see a bit of German business +life, and I think W. would not have minded if the invitation could be +accepted at once--but we would have to remain on here for two days, as +the gentleman is going somewhere else before he goes home, and really +two days in these horrid little rooms would be impossible. M. de Pina +told us the villas of some of these merchant princes are beautiful, with +splendid gardens and all the luxe that money can give. He says they +spend much more for their country houses than for their town +establishments. + +We broke up about 10, as everyone was tired. It was a beautiful +moonlight night, so we told our coachman to take us round by the great +port. It was most curious. The water was black except just where the +streak of moonlight fell on it, and there were thousands of ships of all +kinds from all quarters of the globe--smoke coming out of the chimneys +of some of the big steamers, evidently preparing for an early start +to-morrow morning, and _millions_ of masts tapering up against the sky. +Lights in every direction, some high, some low, and even at that hour of +the night little boats flying about. One saw a dark object start off +from the wharf--suddenly stand out well crossing the moonlight streak, +and then disappear--there was a constant sound of oars and row-locks, +and long creaking noises like pulleys, and heavy things being hoisted on +board a ship. They say the animation, and noise, and dust, and _smells_ +are extraordinary in the daytime--but at night-time all looked extremely +picturesque. + + #Cologne Gare#, 10 o'clock Mercredi soir, + 4 Juillet. + +We got off this morning at 9.30 from Hamburg, and had a long, hot, dusty +journey--nothing very pretty to see. We arrived here about 6.30, found +the Consul, Mr. Brandt, waiting at the station with a carriage. He +proposed a drive--going first to the Cathedral, to see it by daylight, +and then to dine with him at the station, where there is a very good +restaurant, so we sent all our small things over to the private room, +and started off to the Cathedral. I was delighted to see it again after +so many years. Do you remember it was the first European Cathedral we +saw after Notre Dame, that first year when we came down the Rhine. How +magnificent it is, outside and inside--the long, stately vaulted aisles, +so high and so still. There was no one in the church at that hour, and +we had a delightful half hour. We walked all around the outside, and +then went back to the station to dine--and a very good dinner it was, in +the same room where we breakfasted when we started for Russia, now +nearly two months ago, when all seemed so vague, and rather a plunge +into the unknown. We shall certainly have souvenirs for all our lives. + +As we were finishing dinner the Chef de Gare came to say that a +"lit-salon" was reserved for us, and he would have all the "kleines +gepack" put into the compartment, and tell us at the last moment. The +train starts at 10.30, and we get to Paris at 10 to-morrow morning, so +we thought we would go out again and drive about a little, as we had so +long to wait. We had a nice turn in the moonlight--the Cathedral looked +beautiful, and we crossed the Rhine and drove some little distance on +the other side of the river to have the view of the city. Now one or two +Frenchmen who are here are talking to W. They have brought us tea, and I +am scribbling this to you. + +It is delightful, Dear, to think that to-morrow at breakfast I shall be +telling you all this, and Baby sitting up in his high chair, looking at +me hard out of his round, blue eyes. There is _one_ good thing in +getting home, I needn't write any more letters. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #Paris#, + 31 #rue Dumont d'Urville#, + July 5th, 1883. + +We got back this morning at 10 o'clock. The journey was very +comfortable--there is nothing like those French "lits-salons." Our +departure from Cologne was rather amusing. The Chef de Gare summoned us +at the last moment--all the passengers had taken their places, the doors +were shut, officials careering up and down the platform, and _yet_ the +train didn't start. Various heads were put out of the windows, and one +or two irate gentlemen inquired what they were waiting for, and why +didn't we start. Then we appeared strolling leisurely down the platform, +with a small suite of gentlemen, officers, etc. The adieux were again a +little long, and really one man was bursting with rage, and not at all +mollified when he heard it was an Ambassador returning to France after +the Coronation; "he supposed Ambassadors could be as punctual as anybody +else, and when an express started at 10.30, it was 10.30 for everybody." + +We were very pleased to find Hubert and the coupe waiting for us at the +Gare de l'Est, and Baby and Nounou in the street at the door of the +porte cochere. + +Well, the Moscow Coronation is over--I wonder what the next turn of the +wheel will bring us. + + + + +PART II + +TEN YEARS IN ENGLAND + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #Boulogne-sur-Mer#, + August, 1883. + +Here we are after all settled for a month at the sea. I really needed +the change and the sea-air after the fatigues of Moscow, and I was glad +to get out of my own house, which is still crowded with boxes and huge +cases labelled _Waddington Couronnement_, which now will not be +unpacked, but go direct to London, as all the Court dresses, gala +liveries, harness, etc., will be needed there. + +We decided just at the last moment to come here, and consequently +couldn't get a house near the big hotels in the real "quartier des +baigneurs," so we have taken one quite the other end of the town near +all the fishing boats. They are a never-failing attraction. We love to +see them go out, and, above all, come in, when all the women, +bare-legged, and with flat baskets on their backs, go out to meet them +and bring in the fish. W. wanted us to come here, as he was in London +and thought he would often get over from Saturday to Monday. + +I made my first visit to the Embassy on the 15th of August (Journee de +l'Assomption). W. thought I had better come over and see the house +before arriving in November to take possession. We started quite +cheerfully. It was warm and bright with a good breeze--a few white-caps, +but nothing out of the way. We saw the boats dance a little as they came +in, but didn't realise what a gale was blowing until we got on board of +ours. The wind was howling through the rigging, and the Captain told us +he couldn't start, as the wind was blowing the water off the bar. It +increased very much while we were waiting, and several passengers left +the boat and stayed over in Boulogne until the next day. However we had +promised to go; we are fairly good sailors, and W. had just two idle +days he could give us in London--so we started. It was certainly the +worst crossing I have ever made. The boat rolled and pitched terribly, +we shipped heavy seas all the time, and arrived at Folkestone shivering +and drenched. All the way to London we felt little streams of water +running down our backs, and our hats were a curiosity--filled with water +like a bowl. We emptied them on the quay, but the feathers, of course, +were finished. We were met at Victoria by two swell young secretaries, +in evening dress, with gardenias in their button-holes, who had come to +meet their Ambassadress; and I have wondered since what impression they +had of the limp, damp, exhausted female they extracted from the reserved +saloon carriage. It was only a few minutes' drive to the Embassy at +Albert Gate, where we were received by a stout porter and a most +distinguished "groom of the chambers," dressed in black, with a silver +chain around his neck. We dined alone in a fair-sized dining-room, with +splendid Gobelin tapestries on the walls. W. came in about 11, having +had a man's dinner with Gladstone. + +[Illustration: The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London] + +The next day we went all over the house, which is neither handsome nor +comfortable. It is high and narrow, like a cage, with no very large +rooms, and a general appearance of dinginess and accumulated dust. +However, the Minister has promised to paint and clean, and to do over +the small drawing-room entirely, just as I like. Of course I shall have +blue satin--you remember how I always like blue everywhere, on me and +near me. The situation is delightful, on the Park--just at Albert Gate. +The windows and balconies of the drawing-rooms give on the drive, and +the "Row" is so near that I could easily recognise horses and riders. +The season is practically over, but I have just seen a pretty group +pass; a lady mounted on a fine chestnut and a child on each side of her +on nice, small fat ponies; close to the little girl, about eight years +old, with her fair hair streaming down her back from under a blue cap, +rides an old groom, evidently much pleased with his little lady's +performance, and watching her so carefully. + +Our inspection of the house took us all the morning. The kitchen, +offices, servants' hall and rooms are enormous, and in very bad order. I +should think it would take weeks to get it clean and habitable, and need +an army of servants to keep it so. I am thinking rather sadly of my +little hotel in Paris, so clean and bright, with not a dark corner +anywhere. + +We went out driving in the afternoon, and I had my first experience as +Ambassadress, as the coachman drove down Constitution Hill--a right of +way reserved for Royalties and the Corps Diplomatique. We went straight +to Mrs. Brown, the famous milliner, in Bond Street, to get ourselves new +hats, as ours were quite impossible after our very lively passage, and +the housemaid at Albert Gate had a handsome present of two hats with +drooping feathers and a strong smell of sea and salt. London was of +course empty, but a few carriages were in the park, and it amused us to +drive about and see all the shops, and the general look of the streets, +so different from Paris. + +We spent our evening quietly at home looking over our installation with +W., horses, carriages, servants, and in fact the complete organisation +of a big London house, which is so unlike a French one. I shall bring +over all my French servants and add as many English as are necessary. I +don't quite see Hubert, our French coachman, driving about the London +streets, and keeping to the left. I should think we should have daily +discussions with all the drivers in London; however, we must try. I +wonder if I shall like being an Ambassadress, and I also wonder how long +we shall stay here. My brother-in-law R. says perhaps two years. + +We got back three days ago--started on a bright summer's day. The +Ambassador and secretaries came down to the station to see us off, and +W. promised to come over and spend Sunday. We had an ideal +crossing--blue sky, bright sun, and few passengers, and, notwithstanding +our hard experience in the first passage, we are glad to have been over +and made acquaintance with the personnel of the Embassy, also to have +seen the house and realized a little what I must bring over to give it a +look of home. + +This morning we have the news of the Comte de Chambord's death, and I am +wondering if it will make any political complication. However, for years +past he has only been a name--a most honourable one certainly--but one +wants more than that to deal with the present state of France. + +After all W. never came over. Although London was empty, he had always +some business to attend to, and on Sunday usually went to see some +friends in the country. Last Sunday he spent with Lord Granville at +Walmer, which he said was delightful. The castle so close to the sea +that the big ships passed almost under the windows; Granville himself a +charming host. He knows France and the French well, having been a great +deal in Paris as a boy when his father was British Ambassador to Louis +Philippe (1830-4); Lord Palmerston was then British Foreign Secretary. + +We are very busy these days making our "pacquets," as we leave in three +days. I am sorry to go, as I have so much enjoyed the quiet life with +the sisters and the children. We have seen few people, as we are not in +the fashionable quarter, but we have become most intimate with all the +fishing population. The young women and girls jibe at us when we go +shrimp fishing, on terms of perfect equality--there are no distinctions +in the sea--because we have not the sleight of hand necessary to jerk +the shining, slippery little fish into the basket from the net. Some +local swell, the Mayor, I think, came to see me the other day, and was +told I was on the beach, so he came down and was much astonished when +they pointed out to him Madame l'Ambassadrice in a hat and feathers, +diamond ear-rings, very short skirts, and neither shoes nor stockings, +walking up to her knees in the water with a fishing-net in one hand and +a basket in the other, and followed by her little son and niece +similarly equipped, all quite happy and engrossed with their sport. We +have one or two country visits to make, and then I must have some time +in Paris to dismantle my house and make my preparations for London. + + + _To J. K._ + + #Mersham Hatch, Ashford, Kent#, + Wednesday, November 28, 1883. + +You will say I am taking up my old habits of writing to you always from +the country, but you cannot imagine how busy I have been in London since +I came over just 2 weeks ago to-day. + +We came down here Monday afternoon to stay with W.'s old college friend +and cousin, Charles Monk. The house and park are charming--quantities of +large, comfortable rooms, and capital shooting. The gentlemen brought +down a great many pheasants yesterday. The party in the house are Lord +and Lady Abinger and Miss Scarlett, Sir George and Lady Chetwode, Mr. +Leveson-Gower, a brother of Lord Granville, with a most polished +courteous manner; a Mr. Price W. Powel, and a young Wm. Gladstone, +nephew of the Premier. Monk has no wife, and three unmarried daughters; +the eldest, Julia, does the honours very well and simply. I absolutely +declined the 9.30 breakfast and asked to have my tea sent up to me. + +Yesterday I came down about 12, took a little turn in the garden until +one, and at 1.30 had luncheon. Then we went for a drive to Eastwood, the +Duke of Edinburgh's place. The house is not so large as this, but the +park is charming, with quantities of deer. We had tea when we came +in--some of the gentlemen appeared and we dined at 8, all the ladies +most gorgeous in satin, lace, and diamonds, the girls generally in +white. After dinner we talked a little, then some of them played whist, +and the young ladies sang. This morning the gentlemen have started again +shooting, and I shall sit in my room quite quietly until 12, which gives +me an hour and a half with the ladies before luncheon. + +[Illustration: The Dining room of the French Embassy, London, +Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries] + + Thursday, 29th. + +W. is off again "running for partridges," whatever that may mean, and at +3 we go back to London. He has a big dinner somewhere to-night. +Yesterday two ladies came over to luncheon, and in the afternoon Julia +Monk and I took a drive in the pony carriage to meet the sportsmen, who +had a very busy day. In the evening we made a little music, Miss +Scarlett played very well. I expect to be very busy all this next week +in London. The workmen will be out of the drawing-rooms, and I shall get +all kinds of little odd tables and chairs and unpack my own bibelots. +The carriages arrive, too, and we must decide about horses. Two English +giants are engaged as footmen, of equal height, to go on the gala +carriage, and we have our own two Frenchmen, one of whom is very tall. +He and Adelaide came down here with us, and Adelaide is much entertained +at the respect with which she is treated. She looked quite a swell +yesterday with her black silk dress, but she says the other maids are +much more dressy, attired in black velvet and satin and open dresses. +Soon there will be nothing left for the mistresses. + +I will stop now, as I must be down a little earlier this morning. I hope +you will soon be settled in Washington, and that the children will have +no more scarlet fever or measles complications. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #French Embassy, Albert Gate#, + December 1, 1883. + +I am gradually settling down, but everything, hours, service, habits, +servants, is so different that I still feel rather strange. I quite +sympathised with Francis, who was already unhappy at leaving Paris and +his dear "Nounou," and very much put out with his new German governess +who was deadly ill crossing. His woes culminated on arriving at Albert +Gate, when he was solemnly conducted upstairs by a very tall footman to +his room (a nice large nursery and bedroom giving on the Park), and he +wept bitterly and refused to eat any dinner or to have his coat and hat +taken off. A great many people have been to see us, and we shall have +some quiet dinners--and a shooting party at Mr. Monk's one of these +days. + +The shooting party at Mr. Monk's was pleasant. He has a fine large house +and capital shooting. The ladies walked about a little and followed some +battues, and everyone assembled in the drawing-room for tea. All the +women in full dress and diamonds for dinner. + +Our Harcourt dinner was pleasant. Sir William is charming--such an easy +talker, with no pose of any kind. It is decided that Lady Harcourt +presents me to the Queen. Lady Granville is away, and it falls upon her +as wife of the Home Secretary. Sir William had been to Windsor, and had +told the Queen of the curious coincidence--the French Ambassadress, an +American, presented by the wife of the British Home Secretary, also an +American,[8] and an amie d'enfance of Mrs. Waddington. I had some little +difficulty in finding out what I was to wear (as there is little +etiquette at the English Court upon these occasions), but they finally +told me ordinary visiting dress, so I shall wear my blue velvet. We go +down to lunch and see the Queen afterward. + +[8] Lady Harcourt is a daughter of the late John Lothrop Motley, the +historian. + + December 7, 1883. + +I have had my audience to-day, and will write to you at once while I +still remember it all. First I must tell you about Francis. He heard +someone asking me the other day if I had been yet to see the Queen. I +saw his face change a little, so when we were alone, he said, +tremulously, "Tu vas voir la Reine?" "Oui, mon fils." "Est-elle toujours +si mechante?" "Mais la Reine n'est pas mechante, mon enfant." "Elle ne +vas pas te faire couper la tete?" Evidently his mind had been running on +the Tower of London, where we went the other day, and where the block on +which Anne Boleyn and Lady Jane Grey had their heads cut off was of +course shown. When he heard I was going to see the Queen, his heart +failed him, and I had some difficulty in comforting him, and explaining +that sovereigns in these days didn't have recourse to such extreme +measures (at least in civilised countries. I suppose the Shah of Persia +wouldn't hesitate to dispose of a head that was in his way). + +Lady Harcourt and I started for Paddington at 1 o'clock, and got to +Windsor a little before two. We found a landau with two servants in +plain black liveries waiting for us, and we drove at once to the Castle. +It was a beautiful bright day, but snow had fallen heavily in the +country, so that the old gray walls and round towers stood out +splendidly as we drove up. We drove through several courts and finally +drew up at an entrance where there were five servants in the royal red +liveries with crape on their sleeves (all the Queen's household are +always in mourning), a big Highlander in full dress, and a butler in +black who ushered us into a large drawing-room with an enormous +bow-window looking on the Park. Instantly there appeared Lady Erroll, +lady in waiting, and four maids of honour. Lady Erroll shook hands and +introduced the maids of honour, who made us low curtseys. Then came Lord +Methuen--Lord in waiting--and we went at once in to luncheon. Everything +was served on silver plate; there were four footmen and a butler, but +the repast was of the simplest description--an ordinary English +luncheon--roast mutton, fowl, pudding, apple-tart, etc. After luncheon +we talked a little, and then Sir Henry Ponsonby appeared to give Lady +Harcourt her last instructions. It was the first time she had presented +an Ambassadress in a private audience. Precisely at three a servant in +black appeared and said, "Will you come to see the Queen?" Lady +Harcourt, Ponsonby, and I proceeded down a handsome long corridor filled +with pictures, vitrines, of china principally, and old furniture, to a +room at one end where a footman was standing. Sir Henry opened the door, +Lady Harcourt made a low curtsey at the threshold, saying, "I have the +honour to present the French Ambassadress," and then immediately backed +herself out, and I found myself in the room. I made a first low curtsey, +but before I had time to make another the Queen, who was standing in the +middle of the room with Princess Beatrice, advanced a step, shook hands, +and said, with a very pretty smile and manner, "I am very glad to see +you." She asked me to sit down, and talked a great deal, was most +gracious, asked me if I was getting accustomed to the climate and the +stairs, whether I had seen all my "colleagues," and how many children I +had. When I said one little boy whom I had left in London, she asked me +what he was doing; I thought I would tell her about his fears for his +mother's head, so I replied he was trembling at home until his mother +should return. She looked a little surprised, but was really amused, and +laughed when I told her his preoccupations; said, "Poor little boy, how +glad he will be to see his mother back with her head on her shoulders." + +Princess Beatrice took no part in the conversation. She looked smiling +and very intelligent. The Queen was very simply dressed in black, with +her white widow's cap and veil, no ornaments, but a gold chain and +pearls around her neck, and a medallion with a portrait of a man in +uniform, whom I supposed to be Prince Albert. I think the interview +lasted about fifteen minutes. Then the Queen arose, shook hands, and +said she hoped my husband and I would like the life in England. Princess +Beatrice shook hands--I backed myself out, and it was over. I was very +much impressed with the Queen's personality. She is short, stout, and +her face rather red, but there is a great air of dignity and +self-possession, and a beautiful smile which lights up her whole face. + +I never could find out any minor details in dress, as to taking off +veil, gloves, etc., but I did as I had done with other Royalties and +took off veil and gloves, which I hope was right. + +Lady Harcourt and Ponsonby were waiting for me in the corridor, and +seemed to think my audience had been longer than usual--were also +surprised that the Queen made me sit down. It seems she sometimes +receives standing all the time, at a first formal presentation. + +As we had some little time before starting for the station, Ponsonby +showed us part of the Castle. The great halls, St. George's and +Waterloo, are very fine, and it was interesting to see the great +pictures which one has always seen reproduced in engravings--the Queen's +Marriage, Coronation, Reception of King Louis Philippe, Baptism of the +Prince of Wales, etc. One room was beautiful, filled with Van Dycks. We +went back to the station in the same carriage, and Lady Harcourt and I +talked hard all the way home. It was certainly a very simple affair; as +little etiquette as possible, but the Castle was fine. The old gray +fortress and its towers and crenellated walls, the home of the sovereign +who lives there with little pomp and few guards--guarded by her people, +in the same Castle, and the same surroundings as when she began her long +reign, a mere girl. When one thinks of all the changes she has seen in +other countries--kingdoms and dynasties disappearing--one can realise +what a long wise rule hers has been. It is such a contrast to my last +Royal Audience at Moscow, which now seems a confused memory of Court +officials, uniforms, gold-laced coats, jewelled canes (I can see one of +the Chamberlains who had an enormous sapphire at the end of his staff), +princes, peasants, Cossacks, costumes of every description, court +carriages, Russian carriages, the famous attelage of three horses, every +language under the sun, and all jostling and crowding each other in the +courts of the Kremlin--with its wonderful churches and domes of every +possible colour from pink to green--only soldiers, soldiers everywhere, +and the people kept at a distance--very unlike what I have just seen +here. + + Sunday, December 16, 1883. + +This afternoon we have had our audience of the Prince and Princess of +Wales--W. and I together. We got to Marlborough House a little before 4, +and were shown at once into a room on the ground floor, where we found +Miss Knollys and a gentleman in waiting. In a few minutes Sir Dighton +Probyn, comptroller of the household, appeared and took us upstairs to a +large, handsome salon. He opened the door, and we found the Prince and +Princess standing. The room was filled with pretty things. The Princess +was dressed in blue velvet (I too--I daresay Fromont made both dresses), +and looked charming, no older than when I had seen her in Paris three or +four years ago, and with that same beautiful slight figure and gracious +manner. + +[Illustration: J J Jusserand Counsellor of the French Embassy, 1883 + +Recently appointed French Ambassador to the United States + +From a photograph by Walery, Paris] + +While the Prince and W. were talking she asked me a great deal about +Moscow and the Coronation, and particularly if the Empress was well +dressed always, as she had been rather bothered with the quantity of +dresses, manteaux de cour, etc., that she was obliged to have. The +Prince remembered that I was the granddaughter of Rufus King, who had +been United States Minister to London under George III. He was very +pleasant, with a charming, courteous manner. The Princess instantly +referred to Francis and his fears for his mother's head, of which she +said the Queen had told her. + + Friday, 21st. + +This afternoon we had tea with the Duke and Duchess of Albany. She is a +German Princess, and was rather shy at first, but when the tea came it +was easier. The Duke is very amiable, talks easily. He looks, and is, I +believe, delicate. We have a few dinners before us, and I am gradually +getting to know all my colleagues. Mohrenheim is Russian Ambassador; +Muenster German; and Nigra Italian. Muenster is practically an Englishman. +His second wife was Lady Harriet St. Clair, a sister of Lord Rosslyn. He +is evidently English in his tastes and habits, rides regularly in the +Park, and drives a coach with four chestnuts that are known all over +London. Mr. Lowell is United States Minister, and is much liked and +appreciated in England. Mrs. Lowell is in bad health and goes out very +little. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Albert Gate#, + January 5, 1884. + +This afternoon we had our audience from the old Duchess of Cambridge. We +found her in handsome rooms in St. James's Palace, and one lady in +waiting with her. She was lying on a sofa--she is very old, +eighty-four--has seen and known everyone, and talks easily both French +and English. It really seemed a page of history to listen to her. She +asked us to come back, and Lady G. told us that when she felt well, +visits were a great pleasure to her, and also that she was always glad +to see any members of the French Embassy. + +We got home to tea--and then I had various skirmishes with the servants. +It really is difficult to make French and English servants work +together. The butler is an Englishman, and directs all the men of the +house. It is not easy to make the Frenchmen take their orders from him. +They all want to be in direct communication with me. There are always +two together in the hall--one Frenchman and one Englishman, and the +result of that is that when anything goes wrong, and the bell is not +answered, the Frenchman tells me he was not there, it was the +Englishman's turn; and of course the Englishman the same--so now I have +told Holmes (the butler) to make me out a regular paper every Monday +with the men's names and their hours of service--Yves et George, 10-12; +William and Charles, 12-2--I hope that will work. As to Hubert he hasn't +driven me yet. He goes about London all day in a brougham, with one of +those non-descript English servants, half French, half English, that we +got from the British Embassy in Paris. I find the domestic part of the +Embassy rather a bore, but I suppose things will settle down. The +housemaids are a delightful institution, though I was amazed upon +inquiring one day from my own maid as to who was a young lady with a red +velvet dress, and a large hat and feathers, I had met on the stairs, +when she replied, "C'est Alice, Madame, la seconde fille de chambre." It +seems that my maid remonstrated with her for spending her money on +clothes, to which she replied that all housemaids in big houses dressed +like that, and that she herself would be ashamed if she dressed as +plainly as my maids. The two thrifty Frenchwomen were scandalised. + +[Illustration: The Duchess of Cambridge + +From a photograph by Walery London.] + + #London#, + January 9, 1884. + +I paid a visit to-day to the Dowager Lady Stanley of Alderley. I found +her at her tea-table in her drawing-room, with Mr. Gladstone having his +cup of tea with her, and talking easily and cheerfully about all sorts +of things (never a word of politics); no one would have imagined that he +was to make a great speech that evening in the House. He really is an +extraordinary, many-sided man. In the course of conversation the talk +fell upon the Roman Catholic religion, and its extension in many +countries, _particularly in America_. He said, turning to me, that a +great friend of his, an American, Mr. Hurlbert, certainly the most +brilliant talker he had ever heard, and one of the most intelligent, had +told him how much the Roman Catholic religion was gaining ground in the +Northern States of America. I rather demurred to his statement, even +though it came from Mr. Hurlbert. His intelligence and brilliancy are +undeniable, but I should have thought his views were a little fantastic +at times. "I rather agree with you," said Mr. Gladstone; "but I have +recently had letters from my friends Bishop P. of New York, Bishop A. of +Massachusetts, and other distinguished Churchmen in the United States, +who tell me that the Roman Catholic religion is making certain progress; +their preachers are so clever, and know so well how to adapt themselves +to the liberal views they must have in America." We then talked some +time about the various Bishops and clergymen he knew in America, the +slight difference between the two Prayer Books, etc. One would really +have thought it was a Church of England clergyman, who has passed all +his life studying theological questions. A few moments after something +turned his thoughts in another direction, and he was discussing with +Lady Stanley the translation into English of an Italian sonnet which he +thought was badly done. "Too literal, really not understanding the +poetry, and the beautiful imagination of the writer." It was +extraordinary. I was rather mortified when he asked if I knew the two +Bishops. I didn't, but it is fair to say he understood when I said how +many years I had been away from America. + +Lady Stanley is a delightful old lady. She has seen and known everyone +worth knowing in Europe for the last fifty years, and it is most amusing +to hear her down-right way of talking. She was killing over the +"Professional Beauties," a style of modern woman she couldn't +understand. She asked me to come in again and have a cup of tea with +her, and I shall certainly go, as one doesn't hear such talk every day. + +We dined with Mr. Childers, and there was a big reception in the +evening, with all the celebrities of the Liberal party, the Harcourts, +Hayters, Lord Northbrook, Tennyson (son of the poet), and many others, +but of course in a crowd like that one can't talk. I hope I shall +remember the faces. About 11 o'clock we went on to Lady Stanhope's, +where there was a big reception of the Conservative party. There I found +the Lyttons and some few people I knew, and many more were presented. +They were all talking politics hard; said the Ministry couldn't last +another week, as there is to be a vigorous attack on them in both Houses +on Tuesday. Everyone says the Lyttons are going to Paris when Lord Lyons +leaves. She will be a charming Ambassadress, and he is so fond of France +and so thoroughly well up in French literature that they will be +delighted to have him in Paris. + +The political talk was exactly like what I have heard so often in Paris, +only in English instead of in French, and the men talking more quietly, +though they abused one another well, and with less gesticulating. Also +they don't carry politics into private life as they do with us; the men +of opposite sides lavish abuse upon each other in the House, but there +it ends, and they meet at dinner and chaff each other, and the wives are +perfectly intimate. In France there is a great gulf between parties, +even moderates, royalists, and republicans, and I was astounded when I +first mixed in political life in France to see people in society turn +their backs upon some perfectly distinguished, honourable gentleman +because he had not the same opinion as themselves in politics. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Sandringham#, + January 12, 1884. + +We arrived this afternoon at two o'clock, and I am writing in my room, +as we have come up to bed, and the gentlemen have retired to smoke. We +came down at 2-1/2, found a saloon carriage reserved for us, and the +Mohrenheims installed--father, mother, and daughter. We got to Wolverton +at six, one of the Prince's gentlemen was waiting for us with two or +three carriages and footmen. We had all sent our servants and baggage by +an earlier train, as it had been suggested to us. The house looked large +and handsome as we drove up. The party was assembled in a great hall, +with a long low tea-table at which the Princess presided. It was easy +enough, and I should think a nice party. The Goschens, Lady Lonsdale, +the Master of Magdalen, Lord Carlingford, and others. The three young +Princesses, Prince Eddy, and the Prince were all there. We talked some +little time and then the Princess said Miss Knollys would show us our +rooms. I found two large comfortable English rooms opening into each +other, a blazing coal fire in mine, which I immediately proceeded to +demolish as much as I could. Miss Knollys had told us not to bring low +dresses--merely open bodices. + +We went down to the drawing-room about 8-1/2, and a little before 9 the +Prince and Princess and Prince Albert Victor (better known as Prince +Eddy) came in. The dinner was handsome and pleasant, footmen in royal +red liveries, men in black in culottes and silk stockings, and a +Highlander in full dress, who stood behind the Prince's chair, and at +the end of the dinner walked solemnly round the table playing the +bagpipes. The evening was pleasant. The Prince showed us the new +ballroom just redecorated with Indian stuffs and arms, and at 11 we went +upstairs with the Princess, bidding her good-night at the top of the +stairs, and the men went to the smoking-room. + + Sunday. + +This morning we went to church, the ladies in an omnibus with the +Princess and her three daughters, and the gentlemen walked across the +Park, the Prince appearing as the sermon began. It is a pretty English +country church in the grounds. In the afternoon we walked about the +grounds; I was much interested in the large stables, where there are +certainly over fifty horses. + +We had changed our dresses after lunch for walking, and the Princess +looked marvellously young in her short walking skirt and little toque. +One could hardly believe she was the mother of her big son, twenty-one +years old. After the walk we assembled again in the big hall for tea, a +substantial meal with every variety of muffin, crumpet, toast, cakes and +jam that can be imagined, but it seemed quite natural to consume +unlimited quantities after our long walk. The Princess and English +ladies were in very dressy tea-gowns, velvet and satin with lace and +embroidery; Madame de Mohrenheim and I in ordinary tailor costumes. The +evening was pleasant; I remarked the absence of the Highland piper at +dinner, and asked the Prince if he was not going to play. "Oh, no," he +said, "not on Sunday, he certainly wouldn't; I shouldn't like to ask him +to, and if I did I am sure he wouldn't do it." We all leave to-morrow, +the Prince going with us to London. We have enjoyed our visit very much, +the Princess always charming and lovely to look at, and the Prince a +model host, so courteous and ready to talk about anything. + + Monday. + +We got off this morning at 11 o'clock. There is one curious custom. The +Prince himself weighs everyone, and the name and weight are written in a +book. Some of the ladies protested, but it was of no use, the Prince +insisted. One young lady weighed more than her father, and was much +mortified. + +I went downstairs to breakfast, which I don't generally do; I keep to my +old habit of a cup of tea in my room. It was a most informal meal. None +of the Royal family appeared, except Prince Eddy, who was going to hunt, +and his red coat made a nice patch of colour. All the rest of us sat +down anywhere, and the servants brought the menu. We travelled up with +the Prince in his private car, and had luncheon in the car, served by +two tall footmen, and everything on silver plate and hot. The Prince +himself quite charming, talking a great deal, and seeing that everyone +had enough to eat. I should think all servants, railway guards, and +small functionaries generally would adore him. He has always a pleasant +word and a smile. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Albert Gate#, + January 31, 1884. + +We have had two days in the country with the D.s at their little hunting +box at Bicester, one of the great hunting centres. It was my first +experience of an English hunt and hunt ball, and amused me perfectly. +The house is small, with enormous stables and splendid horses. His four +in hand is well known, one of the best in England, and the coach and +servants so perfectly turned out. We have two young German secretaries, +good-looking Teutons, and two girls who have just returned from a four +months' excursion in the tropics with the Brasseys in their beautiful +yacht, the "Sunbeam." + +We started on the coach on Tuesday at 10.30, well wrapped up, as there +were occasional showers and violent gusts of wind, particularly when we +stopped at crossroads to see which way the hunt was going. The meet was +at Middleton Park, Lord Jersey's fine place, and the park was a pretty +sight as we drove up. A good many people, almost all the men in pink, +but not so many women as I had expected to see. We really followed very +well, as D. knows the ground perfectly and apparently at what spot the +fox was to cross the road, which he did close to us, followed by the +whole hunt, all jumping out of the field on to the road and back again +into the other field, very good fences, too, but the horses evidently +knew just what they had to do. We drove about till 3 o'clock, and then +went back to Middleton to have luncheon. We found a most hospitable +table, and it was funny to see the people dropping in at intervals, some +of the men in their red coats, one or two ladies, and two or three +children who had been scampering about on ponies. Evidently the meal had +been going on for some time, and the supply inexhaustible; we had a very +good hot luncheon. + +After lunch Lady Jersey (who is charming, very intelligent, and +interested in everything) showed us the house. Beautiful pictures and +old furniture, a massive silver table that was the dressing table of +Queen Elizabeth. Of course we hadn't time to really see all the +interesting things in the house, as it was getting late, and we still +had a fair drive before us. Notwithstanding the good and late luncheon +we were very glad to have tea when we got home. I certainly eat much +more here, I suppose it is the climate, and then the food is a little +different from what we are accustomed to, and I think very good. + +The hunt ball was really very pretty, the ballroom well arranged with +foxes' heads, brushes, etc., all the men in pink. Everyone was "en +train," and everybody of all ages dancing. I should think W. and D. were +the only men in the room who didn't dance. They went home about 12, but +H. and I stayed until 2. We heard afterward that the Master of Hounds +was much depressed all the evening, as he knew he must take the French +Ambassadress to supper (of course, he didn't know that I was American +born, and could speak English), and the prospect of a long conversation +in French with a woman he didn't know filled him with dismay. However we +made friends (in English), and I hope he didn't find the supper hour too +tiresome. There are two reasons why an Englishman hates to speak French; +first, a sort of natural timidity which they all have more or less, and +then a decided objection to doing anything he doesn't want to do, or +which bores him. This country is certainly a Paradise for men, from the +nursery days when all the women of the household--nurses, maids, and +sisters, are slaves of the boys, to manhood, when equally all the women +do exactly what the men want, and regulate their lives to suit the men +of the family, who have everything their own way. + + #London#, + February, 1884. + +I made my debut in the official world last night at a reception at Mr. +Gladstone's in Downing Street. There were four large men's dinners (and +receptions afterward) for the opening of Parliament. Lord Granville and +Mr. Gladstone, Ministerial; Lord Salisbury and Sir Stafford Northcote, +"Her Majesty's Opposition." + +The Gladstone house is small and dark (that is one of the things that +strikes me here--the rooms are so much less lighted than in Paris), and +always the chintz covers left on the furniture, which makes the rooms +look ordinary. We found a great many people there. The Duke of Cambridge +had been dining and was presented to us. He looks a fine old English +soldier (was in uniform), was very amiable, and spoke to me in French, +which he speaks very well. Quantities of people were presented to me, I +can't remember half the names. Almost all the women were in black, +half-high and no display of jewels. Mrs. Gladstone is an old lady, very +animated and civil, she wears a cap, with blue ribbons, rather as I +remember Mother. I was also presented to Countess Karolyi, Austrian +Ambassadress, very handsome, and charming manner; she speaks English as +well as I do. It seems strange to me to hear so much English spoken, it +is so long since I have been in a purely English salon. W. brought me up +various old friends of Rugby and Cambridge days; also some of the minor +diplomats, as of course I have not yet seen all my colleagues. + + #Albert Gate#, + February, 1884. + +I am rather bewildered by the number of people I see and the quantity of +cards left at the Embassy. I shall have to ask an English friend of mine +to look over my list and tell me who the people are, and, above all, +which cards I must return personally (or even make a personal visit) and +which can be distributed by the Chancellerie. I drive about every +afternoon for two hours leaving cards, and as no one has regular +reception days here as in Paris, I rarely find people. We have had +various dinners, political chiefly, at Mr. Gladstone's, Lord Stanhope's, +Lord Northbrook's, a child's party at Marlborough House, which was very +pretty. Francis made great friends with the two charming little +daughters of the Duchess of Edinburgh, and sat between them at tea, the +Duchess herself supplying them with cakes and sandwiches. + +Yesterday there was a pleasant dinner at Lord Granville's. Two tables of +12; one presided over by him and one by Lady Granville. Her table was +covered with red tulips, and his with yellow--nothing but flowers on the +table. The drawing-rooms are large and handsome, and he has some +splendid pictures. One thing seems curious to me--all the furniture at +this season is covered with ordinary chintz housses or coverings--and +the effect is strange with all the guests in full dress, diamonds and +orders, servants in powder and breeches. We would never dream of doing +it in Paris. When we have distinguished people of any kind to dine we +make our salons as pretty as possible, and would want particularly to +uncover our handsome furniture. Here it seems they consider that the +season only begins after Easter. + +Apropos of powder, it was rather an affair to put the two French footmen +in powder, as they of course had never worn it or seen it. Francis was +much excited at Yves' appearance in blue velvet breeches and powder, +Yves being a young Breton, his own special attendant. I think the maids +powdered him in the laundry. However Francis came flying downstairs +holding the reluctant Yves by the hand, to my room, saying, "Oh, Maman, +viens voir Yves, il est joli, joli!" with the youth naturally much +abashed at being so complimented in my presence. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + February 29, 1884. + +We are commanded to Windsor this evening to dine and sleep. It is +inconvenient, as we have to put off a dinner of twenty-one people. The +chef is tearing his hair, as of course all his dinner is ready. When my +maid came to pack the trunks she had rather a flustered look; I thought +it was on account of the Windsor visit. Not at all. It seems a friend of +Juteau's (our chef), who is also a chef in one of the great houses, +heard that we were going to Windsor, so he wrote him a note telling him +that his wife (my maid) must be well dressed and take a low or open +bodice to Windsor for their dinner. The maid was most indignant for +being supposed not to know what was right, and answered the note saying, +"she had accompanied her mistress to every court in Europe, and knew +quite well how to dress herself." + + #Windsor Castle#, + March 1, 1884. + +Our dinner last night went off very well, and was not so stiff as I had +expected. We took the 6 o'clock train from Paddington, and found the +Russian Ambassador, Baron Mohrenheim, and his wife at the station. At +Windsor two or three carriages and footmen were waiting, but no equerry +as at Sandringham. We were driven to a side door at the Castle, where +two servants in plain black were waiting, who showed us at once to our +rooms. We had a pretty apartment furnished in yellow satin, with +beautiful pictures, principally portraits; a small salon with a bedroom +on each side, bright fires burning, and a quantity of candles. They +brought us tea, beautifully served all on silver, with thin bread and +butter (no muffins or toast), and almost at the same moment Sir John +Cowell, Master of the Household, came to pay us a visit. He told us who +the party was, said dinner was at 8.45, that a page would come and tell +us at 8.30, and that we should assemble in the great corridor. Quite +punctually at 8.30 they notified us, and we proceeded down the long +corridor, W. in black breeches and stockings (no order, as he hadn't the +Legion d'Honneur, and couldn't wear a foreign order), I in white +brocaded velvet and diamonds. We found the party assembled, the +Mohrenheims; Lord and Lady Kimberley; Nigra, Italian Ambassador; Lady +Churchill (who was in waiting); Lord Kenmare (Lord Chamberlain), and +Lord Dalhousie (Lord in waiting) and one or two other men. We moved up +to a door just opposite the dining-room, and about 9 the Queen came with +the Duchess of Edinburgh and Princess Beatrice. She shook hands with me +and Madame Mohrenheim; bowed very graciously to all the others, and +passed at once into the dining-room alone. Mohrenheim followed with the +Duchess of Edinburgh; Nigra with Princess Beatrice; W. with Madame +Mohrenheim; and Kimberley took me. The table was handsome, covered with +gold and silver plate, quantities of servants in red livery, plain +black, and two Highlanders in costume behind the Queen's chair. + +The conversation was not very animated. The Queen herself spoke little, +and the English not at all--or so low that one couldn't understand +them--however, my Ambassador couldn't stand that long, so he began +talking most cheerfully to the Duchess of Edinburgh about Moscow, +Kertch, and antiquities of various kinds, and as the Duchess is clever +and inclined to talk, that corner became more lively. I can't say as +much for our end. I think most Englishmen are naturally shy, and the +presence of Royalty (the Queen above all) paralyses them. + +[Illustration: Windsor Castle] + +After dinner, which was quickly served, we all went out as we had come +in, and the Queen held a short cercle in the corridor, in the small +space between the two doors. She stood a few minutes talking to the two +Princesses, while she had her coffee (which was brought for her alone on +a small tray), and then crossed over to Madame Mohrenheim and talked a +little. She sat down almost immediately, Madame Mohrenheim remaining +standing. She then sent for me, Lord Dalhousie summoning us all in turn. +She was very gracious, saying that she could not yet stand or walk, +which worried her very much--asked me a great deal about my life in +London, did I find everything very different from Paris, and had I found +little friends and a school for Francis? The conversation was not easy. +She sat on rather a low chair, and I standing before her had to bend +down always. She was dressed in black, with her usual little cap and +veil, opal necklace, diamonds and orders. While she was talking to the +others the two Princesses moved about and talked to us. It was +pleasant--the whole cercle lasted about an hour. The Queen and +Princesses retired together, all shaking hands with me and Madame +Mohrenheim, and bowing to the others. We finished the evening in the +drawing-room with the household, staying there about half an hour, and a +little after eleven we broke up. W. has gone off to smoke--at the +extreme end of the Castle, as the Queen hates smoke and perhaps doesn't +know that anyone dares smoke here--and I am writing with about twelve +tall wax candles on my table. + +It is a bright moonlight night, and the Castle looks enormous. A great +mass of towers, vaulted gateways, walled courts, and the beautiful grass +slopes that look quite green in the moonlight. The lights at the far end +seem like twinkling tapers. It is certainly a magnificent Royal +residence. + + Saturday, March 1884. + +We got back for lunch, leaving the Castle at 10.30. We breakfasted with +the household at 9.30; no ceremony, people coming in as they liked, and +sitting down anywhere. We loitered a little in the corridor until it was +time to start, looking at the pictures, portraits, and the curious +cabinets and the bits of old furniture which are interesting. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Albert Gate#, + March 14, 1884. + +To-day was our first Drawing-room, and we turned out in great force, I +had three secretaries' wives. We had out our two carriages. W. and I in +the gala carriage with Count de Florian, Secretary of Embassy, Hubert +driving us, and two English giants behind; then came the landau with +merely one footman on the box, all in full dress livery, blue breeches, +silk stockings, and powdered wigs. There was a great display of troops, +and a crowd waiting on the pavement outside the door at the Embassy to +see us start. There are no porte-cocheres in London, so you go straight +out into the street to get your carriages, and a carpet is kept in the +hall, which is rolled down the steps every time you go out. The streets +were crowded as we came near Buckingham Palace. + +We entered the Palace by a side entrance, leaving our wraps in one of +the rooms, and went up the great staircase, which was a pretty sight. +Quantities of plants and flowers and a long procession of women with +handsome Court dresses, splendid tiaras, and a few men in uniform--of +course women preponderate. We walked through various rooms all filled +with Court functionaries, officers in uniform, and finally arrived in +the large salon opening into the Throne-Room where all the Corps +Diplomatique and English people who had the entree were assembled. +Countess Granville, wife of the Foreign Secretary, Earl Granville, +looked most distinguished, tall and fair, in black with a handsome +tiara. Countess Karolyi, Austrian Ambassadress, was beautiful in her +Hungarian costume and splendid jewels. The Russians also most +picturesque in their national court dress, red velvet trains heavily +embroidered in gold, white veils spangled with gold, and the high +head-dress (kakoshnik) in velvet studded with jewels. + +When the doors were opened the Foreign Secretary and his wife passed +first and took up their station close beside the Princess of Wales, to +name the members of the Corps Diplomatique. Then the Master of +Ceremonies gave his hand to the Doyenne--the Austrian Ambassadress--her +train was spread out by two pages,--and they entered the Throne-Room, +making low bows or curtseys on the threshold. One makes 3 curtseys; one +on entering the room, one half way and a third as one gets close to the +Princess. We followed quickly, I with my ladies coming directly behind +the Russians. The Court was small--Princess of Wales, Princess Beatrice, +Prince of Wales and Duke of Cambridge. The Princess, a charming graceful +figure dressed in dark velvet with coloured embroideries and jewels and +orders; Princess Beatrice in mauve, and the two Princes in uniform of +English Field Marshal. The Princesses shook hands with us chefesses and +bowed to the young ladies--the Princes the same. There was no sort of +trouble about the train; they are down only for a moment, just as you +pass the Queen or Princess--a chamberlain picks them up most adroitly, +puts them in your arm, and one never gives them a thought. As soon as we +had passed the group of Princes we turned into a deep window recess and +stood there until the end. That was most amusing, as we faced the door +and saw everyone come in. It amused and interested me extremely to see +how differently people passed. Most of the women looked well, their +fresh, fair skins standing the test--and a pretty severe one it is--of +full dress, white feathers and veil at three in the afternoon of a cold +March day. Many had been dressed since 12, first sitting a long time in +their carriages, and then waiting a long time in the drawing-room at the +Palace, until their turns came. They were generally timid and nervous +when they passed--some bracing themselves as if they were facing a +terrible ordeal, some racing past very quickly, forgetting to take their +trains in their arms, and pursued down the room by an impatient +chamberlain, and some, especially the debutantes, making carefully and +conscientiously the low regulation curtsey to each Prince, and trembling +with shyness. When the last person had passed the Court turned and made +us bows and curtseys--the Princess' half curtsey is charming--and it was +over. We all got away quickly. + +The great hall was an interesting sight, filled with women and uniforms +of every kind, and a band playing in the great square. We had the usual +"Drawing-room tea" to show our dresses. I wore the blue embroidered +Court dress I had made for Moscow, with blue feathers and diamond tiara. +All the English women wear white feathers and veils, which naturally +does not suit everyone, particularly if they are not well put on. Some +of the coiffures were almost eccentric, one rather high feather, and a +long one very low running down one's back. The young men were pleased, +as they had many compliments for our carriages and liveries. We were the +only Embassy that had out two carriages. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #London#, + May, 1884. + +We went to the Derby this morning with Lord Cork. I had never been, and +W. not for many years. We went down by train--(special, with the Prince +and racing coterie) and I enjoyed the day. We were in the Jockey Club +box, and it was a curiosity to see the crowd on the lawn, packed tight, +and every description of person, all engrossed with the race, and wildly +interested in the horses. There was almost a solemn silence just before +the Derby was run. This time there was a tie, which is rare, I believe. +It was rather amusing driving home from Victoria, as all the balconies +along the road were decorated, and crowded with people, but I believe +the great fashion of driving down had almost disappeared. Nearly +everyone now goes down by train. + + #London#, + June 28, 1884. + +This morning H. and I went to the second meet of the Coaching Club on +D.'s coach. It was a pretty sight; a bright beautiful morning and Hyde +Park crowded with equipages, riders, and pedestrians--quantities of +pretty women all much dressed, principally in white, with hats trimmed +with flowers, and light parasols. The tops of the coaches looked like +flower beds. Everyone engrossed with the teams, criticising and admiring +with perfect frankness. The fly-drivers were killing, knew all the +horses, and expressed themselves freely on the way they were handled. + +We drove through the Park, and then on to Richmond (not all the +coaches), where we breakfasted at the "Star and Garter." The breakfast +was good, and at dessert we had "Maids of Honour," the famous cakes that +one always gets there. We walked about the Park a little after +breakfast; it was delightful under the big trees, and then mounted our +coach again and went back by Hurlingham to see a polo match. The road +was crowded and driving very difficult, but D. is a capital whip, and I +wasn't in the least nervous, though sometimes it did seem as if the bit +of road they left us was rather narrow. However D. drove straight on +without slackening--and they do make way for a coach. I think it is a +sort of national pride in a fine team. + +Hurlingham is very pretty and there were quantities of people there. We +saw very well from the top of the coach, and I must say the game was +beautifully played. Of course the men all rode perfectly, but the ponies +were so clever, quite as keen as the riders, and seemed to know all +about it. We got back to the Embassy about 8, and happily had no one to +dinner, but sat on the balcony all the evening, W. smoking, and talking +about his conference, which is not going smoothly. The English are +stiff, and the people at home unreasonable. I can't imagine how French +and English can ever work together--they are so absolutely unlike. + + #London#, July, 1884. + +W. went to Paris this morning and H. and I are left to our own devices. +I dined alone at the Speaker's and it was pleasant. After dinner we went +down to the terrace and walked and sat about. It was so warm that we all +sat there with bare arms and necks. It was so pretty; boats passing on +the river, all the bridges lighted, and so cool and dark on the terrace +that one could hardly recognise the people as they walked up and down. I +went back to the Embassy to get H., and we went to Devonshire House, +where there was a big reception--all the world there, and the house very +handsome, a fine staircase; Lord Hartington receiving us, as the Duke is +an old man and couldn't stand the fatigue. + +[Illustration: M and Mme Waddington and Their Son + +From a photograph by Cesar Paris] + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #Albert Gate#, + February 9, 1885. + +This morning we have the news of the fall of Khartoum and the murder of +Gordon. W. is in the country trying horses, so I put on my hat and went +out into the Row to hear what was going on. It was crowded with people +talking and gesticulating. The Conservatives furious, "such a ministry a +disgrace to the country," and a tall man on a handsome chestnut, talking +to Admiral C. most energetically, "I am a moderate man myself, but I +would willingly give a hand to hang Gladstone on this tree." They are +much disgusted--and with reason. + + Monday, February 23, 1885. + +It seems to be my week, Dear Gertrude, so I will at any rate begin this +morning. We are now in full tide of dinners and routs, which last is the +most frightful species of entertainment that the human mind has ever +devised. They consist of 400 or 500 people packed close in a house which +holds about 150--so warm in the rooms that you almost stifle--and so +cold on the staircase and halls where the door is always open wide that +I always wonder how I can escape without a fluxion de poitrine. We had a +banquet ourselves last Tuesday, Harcourts Muensters, Corks, etc., +followed by a mild dance, which was however successful, as Pourtales, +who is a gay little fellow, led a spirited cotillon, and there were 22 +couples. I performed 2 quadrilles, which, naturally, is the extent of my +dancing now, unless I take a stray turn with an old partner. + +Of course the great excitement has been the departure of the Guards for +Egypt, as it takes the husbands, sons, and brothers of half London away. +It does seem such a useless campaign and sacrifice of human life. + +There was a child's party at Marlborough House on Friday afternoon which +was very successful. Mimi and I were bidden, or _commanded_, as the +correct phrase is, at 4 o'clock, so we took ourselves off, he in his +white sailor suit, with blue collar, and I in blue velvet. Both Prince +and Princess were very amiable, and the Duchess of Edinburgh was very +good to Mimi, as she always is, making him sit by her daughters to see +the conjuror, and at her table for tea. The children had their tea in +the dining-room, with a great many little round tables, we had ours with +the Princess. It is very informal, she always makes it herself, and +everyone sits down. The Princess Louise was also there, looking very +nice, and such a pretty figure. After the tea the children had a fine +romp, ending with a most animated Sir Roger de Coverley, in which all +the Princes--I mean the 2 younger ones, Prince Eddy and Prince +George--joined, and all the Aides-de-Camp. We didn't leave till 7--and +the afternoon was rather long, but still I must say I enjoyed myself. + +Yesterday we had a pleasant dinner at Lady Hayter's--a Liberal political +salon. She has big dinners--receptions every Saturday. It was pleasant +at first, until many more people came than the house would hold, but +that is what the "Maitresse de Maison" particularly aims at. + +Everyone here sympathises with Lowell on the death of his wife. She was +so very peculiar. I wrote him a little note, as he was always very +amiable to me and complimentary about Father and Grandpa. This evening +we had a dinner at Julia, Lady Tweeddale's, who is chaperoning her +niece, Sir Robert Peel's daughter. + + Tuesday. + +I couldn't finish last evening, so take up my letter now at 7 o'clock, +while I am waiting to dress for dinner. It is a quiet dinner at the Miss +Monks'--two cousins, maiden ladies--and I shall wear a high dress, which +is much easier to get into. Our dinner last night was pleasant and +swell--Duke and Duchess of Leeds, Lord and Lady Delawarr, Lord and Lady +Claud Hamilton (she a beauty, with a fine figure; he an attractive +Irishman, son of the Duke of Abercorn) and others. They danced +afterwards, and we stayed till 12 o'clock. The pose of the fast young +married set is not to dance. There is no one to dance with, the Guards +are gone. The Row was lovely this morning, like a May day, everybody +out. I hope to begin to ride again next week. I am in treaty for a very +handsome chestnut, if the man will come down a little in his price. + + #Albert Gate#, + February 25, 1885. + +We have been to-day to the House of Lords to hear Lord Salisbury speak +and the vote of censure passed. The House was full--the Prince and Duke +of Cambridge there. Lord Salisbury spoke well; very calm, very nasty for +his adversaries, and as he had the beau role he was much applauded. The +defence was weak, the orator feeling evidently that his cause was a bad +one, and the temper of the House against him. I should think Lord +Salisbury would be a most unpleasant adversary, though always perfectly +courteous in manner. + + + _To J. K._ + + #Ambassade de France a Londres#, + Monday, March 9, 1885. + +This is my week again, Dear Jan, and I will begin to-day. + +We are going on in a wildly dissipated manner. Last week was very full. +We went to a very pretty ball given by the Artillery Company of London +to the Prince and Princess. The Duke of Portland, a young fellow, is +colonel of the regiment, and the thing was very well done. Both Prince +and Princess danced several times. The supper was very pretty. When it +was ready everybody made a line all down the ballroom, and then the +procession, with the Princess first and the Duke of Portland, then the +Prince with me and various other Princes and swells, walked down the +long room, the band playing the "British Grenadiers," and all the people +bowing and curtseying. The Royal party supped on a platform and there +were 1,000 people seated at supper at long narrow tables, everyone +looking hard at the Princess. + + Thursday, 12th. + +I never got any further and never have had time since, but I will begin +this morning and finish my letter this evening. To-day is the first +Drawing-room of the season. As Countess Karolyi doesn't come, I am the +Doyenne, and shall have to go in first, led by Sir Francis Seymour. Mr. +Lowell has asked me to take his presentation. However there is only +Bessie V. R., Eugene's daughter, who is pleased at being presented by an +Ambassadress. She will also see the Diplomatic Corps pass. I wish Jess +were here, and so does Adelaide, who would be so delighted to dress her. +Last night we had a very pleasant dinner at Lady Jersey's. Such a +handsome woman was there, the young Duchess of Montrose. After dinner we +went to the Speaker's reception, which was crowded, but rather +amusing--such funny looking people and such dresses. + +I am overrun with artists. There are several French artists of all kinds +here, and I must make them play once, so I have decided upon next Friday +afternoon. It is my day and I shall invite all the musical and +entertaining people I know, as of course they all wish to be heard. One +girl really does play very well on the violin, and wants me very much to +sing with her accompaniment, which, naturally, I shan't, and another +sings, not very remarkably, and a third, Marie Dubois, plays really +beautifully--premier prix du Conservatoire. I will write you all about +it when it is over. + + 7 o'clock. + +Well, we have performed the Drawing-room--it was short, not more than an +hour and a quarter, and I must say very few pretty faces or pretty +dresses--Bessie V. R. looked very well, very distinguished. She followed +directly behind me--even in front of my secretaries' wives, and was the +third lady in the room. There were quite a lot of Princes--Prince and +Princess of Wales, Prince Waldemar of Denmark, Duke and Duchess of +Edinburgh, Duke of Cambridge and Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar. Mme. de +Bylandt, wife of the Dutch Minister, presented Mme. and Mlle. de Brenen, +Dutch ladies, both mother and daughter handsome and well dressed. The +Princess looked charming in white and gold. The Duchess of Edinburgh had +a dark green velvet train. We all came back here to tea and had various +visitors to look at the dresses, including Baron Pawel-Rammingen, +husband of Princess Frederica of Hanover, who also happened in and was +much amused at finding such an etalage of trains--happily we have +nothing this evening. Next week is the marriage of the Duke of B.'s +daughter. It is to be at Westminster Abbey and very swell, the Prince +and Princess going. There is to be a party Tuesday night, where all her +jewels are to be shown, which they say are splendid. I am sorry not to +go, but we have a dinner and a dance ourselves. I shall go to the +wedding. She is small and quiet--rather shy. I don't know whether one of +those mysterious changes will take place which one sees sometimes after +marriage--coronets and trains do a great deal. I must finish, as I have +of course several notes to answer. I hate it so, when people wait for +answers. I suppose I shall have a fine account of the Inauguration from +Gertrude. I hope the girls have enjoyed it. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #London#, + March 12, 1885. + +I went yesterday to say good-bye to Lady R. They are leaving for Bombay, +where he is named Governor. It is for five years; I think I should be +unwilling to go so far, and to such a trying climate, but she seems +plucky enough and will certainly do well. + +Francis and I were driving up Constitution Hill yesterday just as the +Queen arrived, so we had a very good look at her. She was in an open +carriage with Princess Beatrice and her fiance, Prince Henry of +Battenberg (such a handsome man), and the usual escort of Life-Guards. +She recognised me perfectly, and always has a gracious bow and smile. +Just before she came one of our English friends who was walking about +with her daughter (a young girl who had never seen the Queen) suddenly +spied me (as mine was the only carriage that was allowed to stand) and +asked me if she and her daughter could get into the carriage with me, as +that would be such a good chance for the girl to see the Queen. I of +course was delighted to have them, as Francis and I were alone, and the +girl saw perfectly. So many English people, except those who go to +Drawing-Rooms, never get a chance to see the Queen at all. + + Sunday, March. + +We have been to Church this morning at Westminster Abbey, such a +magnificent service. The Dean always gives us seats, and I love the +music, the boys sing very well, and the hymns are grand as they echo +through the fine old church. In every direction there is some historical +souvenir; tombs, old glass windows, tattered flags, crests,--all +England's past. We walked home through Green Park, and it is curious to +notice the absence of equipages--so many English people don't take out +their carriages on Sunday (to rest the horses and let the servants go to +church), again such a striking contrast to Paris, where every kind of +conveyance is out on that day. I think of the little grocer near H. who +goes out every Sunday as soon as it is at all warm with his whole family +and 2 or 3 dogs in his little covered cart. All the "Societe" is out +also; at the big concerts, reviews, races, etc. Sunday is the great +Parisian holiday. + +This morning before starting I had my head out of the window on the +other side of the Embassy, looking at the Guards pass on their way to +the little church just behind the Embassy in Knightsbridge. They came +down from the barracks at a swinging pace, a fine body of men, the +sergeants with their canes, and several officers. The band, a very good +one, plays all the time (to-day they marched to the French tune "Le Pere +Victoire"), and takes up its station, always playing, at the door of the +church. They play until the last man files in, then suddenly the music +stops, and the band goes in also. It always interests the French +servants immensely, the two maids had their heads out too, and said to +me just now, "C'est bien beau, Madame, quel dommage que cela ne se passe +pas comme cela chez nous." The service in the Guards' Chapel at +Wellington Barracks is also a fine one, the chapel filled with soldiers, +a mass of red (as one sees only their tunics), and the singing very +good--a little loud sometimes when it is a favourite hymn and all join +in. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Albert Gate#, + March 13, 1885. + +We have had our second "Drawing-room" to-day, and were asked to come in +"demi-deuil," as it was the first time the Queen had received any of the +Corps Diplomatique since the Duke of Albany's death. There are always +more people when the Queen holds the Drawing-room, as it is the only +chance so many of her subjects ever have of seeing her. She rarely comes +to London, and stays only two or three days. She was dressed with her +little closed diamond crown, the blue ribbon of the Garter, and many +diamonds. I thought the black becoming generally. + + March 16th. + +At our dinner to-day at Lord A.'s Mr. Campbell was next to me, and told +me he was most anxious to be recalled to the French Ambassador, that he +had been his fag at Rugby, and had never seen him since. Of course they +made acquaintance again after dinner, and plunged into all sorts of +recollections of their school days. The other men who were smoking with +them said the talk was most interesting and curious, as their careers in +after life had been so very different. At every turn W. finds someone +who had been at Rugby or Cambridge with him. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + April 9, 1885. + +This morning it is pouring, so I gave up the Oxford and Cambridge boat +race. W. and Count de Florian started all with light blue rosettes +(Cambridge). W. was on the umpire boat. Cambridge won easily, which was +of course a great pleasure to him (having rowed himself so many years +ago in the Cambridge crew), in the evening. He said he was so much +cheered when he got up to speak--young men standing on chairs to see +him--that he had to wait some time before he could begin. He is +certainly the only foreign Ambassador that ever rowed in the Cambridge +eight. He was quite pleased when he came home, so many old memories of +happy boyish days had been brought back. We talked for some time after +dinner, and recalled all sorts of Cambridge experiences--once when the +Queen came with Prince Albert to Cambridge the students were all +assembled in the court-yard as her carriage drove up. It had been +raining, and the Queen hesitated a moment in getting out, as the ground +was wet and there was mud. Instantly W. had his gown off and on the +ground, the others followed his example, and she walked over a carpet of +silk gowns the few steps she had to make. W. said he had never forgotten +her smile as she bowed and thanked them. + + + _To J. K._ + + #The Garth, Bicester#, + Sunday, April 19, 1885. + +I believe this is my week, Dear Jan. I am staying here at a queer little +hunting box in Oxfordshire with Hilda Deichmann (nee de Bunsen). It is +literally an enormous stable, with a cottage attached, but they have +added a story and wings and it is the most wonderful-looking place, very +low--but comfortable. W. went off to Paris Sunday, and I came down here +last Saturday with Mimi. He is very fond of the children--a big boy of +11 and a girl of 7--and has enjoyed himself thoroughly. We feel awfully +cut up at Pontecoulant's death. He has been such a good friend to us, +and so completely associated with all our political life. It seems +incredible that a strong man should be carried off like that in 4 days +from a cold. Henrietta will miss him awfully, as, now that we are so +much away he was always there and attending to anything she wanted done. + +Of course everyone is talking and speculating about the Anglo-Russian +question. W. thinks the English must fight, and that they will. I think +this government, with Gladstone at its head, will never make up their +minds to fight seriously or in time, judging from the way the Soudan +campaign has been conducted. + +We have been driving all over the country, which is charming, flat, but +all grass (Oxfordshire is a regular hunting country), and since three +days the weather has been enchanting. Yesterday we made a lovely +excursion to Blenheim on Deichmann's coach. We picked up 2 neighbours, +nice, pretty English girls, and had a beautiful drive over the downs. +Mimi had never been on a coach before, and was in a wild state of +delight when all four horses galloped up the hills, and they blew the +horns at all the railway stations and passing thro' the villages. I had +forgotten how magnificent Blenheim was. The house is rather dismantled, +as the present Duke has sold all the books and some of the handsomest +pictures, but there are plenty left--Van Dycks, Rubens, etc., and the +rooms and halls are splendid. There were lots of portraits of the Dukes +and Duchesses, from the great Duke down, some curiously like the present +Churchills, particularly the women. When we had finished sauntering +through the house, we drove about the park looking for a shady place to +lunch, and then established ourselves; the horses were taken out, the +lunch basket opened, and we had a very good lunch on the top of the +coach. We drove back through Woodstock and stopped for tea at Dashwood +Park, one of the great places of the country. They gave us tea, with +every variety of toast, cake, and bread that can be imagined, in a +beautiful room as large as a church, opening on a stone terrace, and the +most lovely (English) views of grass meadows and trees, stretching miles +away. There were quantities of family portraits there, too, but we +hadn't time to see them. We got home at 7 o'clock, rather exhausted, but +having had a lovely day. + +I began my letter this morning before breakfast and will finish it now. +The children are off to the woods with the German tutor after primroses, +but it is too warm for us--so we shall take a walk after tea. I am very +fond of Hilda Deichmann. She is very clever--knows a great many +things--draws well, paints well, is a good musician, and is womanly and +practical. We fraternised from the first moment. We are going back to +London to-morrow afternoon. Mimi's school begins on Tuesday, and I think +he has had a good outing for the present. I haven't an idea what we +shall do this winter. Perhaps when W. comes back he will have some +plans. With this new Ministry, it is difficult to make any. I am so +afraid of their proposing some beastly measure, like the exile of the +Orleans Princes, or something of that kind to be popular before the +election. The Wales' visit to Ireland seems to be progressing most +delightfully and much more quietly than people thought. He has such +wonderful charm of manner. I should think personal contact with him +would always work wonders. I must stop now or my letter will not go this +afternoon. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + May 6, 1885. + +We had yesterday a typical London _Season_ evening. We dined at Lady +Vivian's--a large, handsome dinner, everybody rather in a hurry to get +away, as there were two big parties; Lady Derby's in St. James's Place, +and Lady Salisbury's in Arlington Street. We drove down Piccadilly with +much difficulty, getting along very slowly in spite of our "white card," +but finally did arrive at Lady Derby's. The staircase was a mass of +people struggling to get in, an orchestra playing, and about 1,200 +people in rooms that would hold comfortably about half. Of course on +such occasions one doesn't talk. We spoke to our host and hostess, were +carried on by the crowd, made the tour of the rooms and got down again +with much waiting and jostling, as there were two currents coming and +going. However, we did finally get our carriage, and then with many +stops and very slowly, got to Arlington Street, where apparently the +same people were struggling on the staircase, the same orchestra +playing, and just as big a crowd (I should think the whole Conservative +party), for though the house is larger they had invited more people, so +the result was practically the same. We did exactly the same thing, +exchanged a few words with Lady Salisbury, made the tour, and came home. +We were two hours performing these two receptions, but I suppose it was +right to do it once. However, the English certainly enjoy the sight, and +don't mind the waiting. Lady Jersey, who is a grandmother, told me this +afternoon she had bored herself to death last night. "Why did you go?" I +said, "you must know these big political parties by heart." "Oh, I like +the parties," she said; "only I didn't get to either," and then she +explained her evening. She started alone in her carriage at 10 o'clock +for Lady Derby's, was kept waiting an interminable time in Piccadilly, +and when she finally did reach Lady Derby's door, a friendly link-man +advised her not to go in as everybody was coming away, and she would +never get up the stairs, so she turned back and proceeded to Arlington +Street. She had the same crowd, the same long wait, and when she arrived +at Lady Salisbury's the party was over, and no one could possibly get +in. It was then midnight, and she drove home, having passed her whole +evening since 10 o'clock alone in her brougham in Piccadilly. + +[Illustration: The Salon of the French Embassy in London, 1891] + + May 9, 1885. + +This afternoon we have had a conference "sur Racine" in the big +drawing-room. A good many people came and apparently listened, and I +hope it may do the young lady good. Mlle. de B. wishes to get up classes +of French literature for ladies, but I hardly think it will succeed here +in the season; on a bright day no one will shut herself up in a smallish +room to hear about Racine, Moliere, etc. I was amused by one of our +colleagues whom I invited. He refused promptly, "he really couldn't do +that even for me. He hadn't thought about Racine since he left school, +and hadn't felt it a blank in his life." Mlle. de B. did it very well; +she sat on a little platform with a table in front of her, and all the +swells in red and gilt arm-chairs facing her, and looking at her hard. +She was a little nervous at first, but soon got over that, and her +language was good and well chosen, she knew her subject perfectly, and +spoke in a pretty clear voice. This was the invitation:-- + + MADAME WADDINGTON + + SERA CHEZ ELLE + + le Samedi, 9 Mai, 2 a 4 heures, + + _Mlle. de Bury lira une etude de critique litteraire sur Racine, son + milieu, et sa tragedie de Berenice._ + +Do you think it would have tempted you? I am afraid Schuyler wouldn't +have come. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #London#, + May, 1885. + +We are having most beautiful weather, Dear, and our morning rides are +delightful. If only the Park was a little bigger. We always get a good +gallop on the other side by the Marble Arch, but it is small, and one +goes round and round. When I ride with W. we generally make three or +four turns as fast as we can go, he hates to dawdle. When I ride with +the military attache, or some other friends, we do the Row, and amble up +and down, talking to the people walking as well as the riders. The +children always delight in scampering along on their ponies, and they +certainly begin young. A friend of ours, who has a nice sturdy boy of +about six, was wondering whether he should begin with his child on a +narrow pony, thinking he was still rather young, so he consulted Lady +P., a beautiful rider, and an authority on all matters connected with +riding. "You mustn't begin too early with boys," she said; "one must be +careful; I never put any boy of mine on a horse until he was two years +old." + + May 13th. + +To-day we have had a very long Drawing-room held by the Queen, which of +course attracts everyone. She rarely stays more than an hour, just long +enough to receive the Corps Diplomatique and the people who have the +entree. The Queen looked very well, merely shook hands with me, but +talked some little time to W., said she had enjoyed her stay at +Aix-les-Bains so much, and that everything had been done to make her +comfortable. I watched her while she was talking and I never saw a smile +make such a difference in a face. Hers is quite beautiful and lights up +her whole face. It was tiring to-day--unending. Lord R. told me there +were 400 presentations, and at the end said about 1,200 people had +passed. They say the Queen is sometimes made sick by the quantity of +people curtseying before her--the constant movement of the people +bending down and rising has the same effect upon her as the waters of +the sea. I can understand it. + +The long Drawing-room to-day was a god-send to Lady A.,--one of Lord +C.'s daughters. She is a "debutante," had a very pretty new dress, and +was much excited over her presentation, had started very early with her +mother so as to see the Queen (who stays only a short hour). The early +start and the long waiting in the row of carriages and also the +ante-room, exhausted her absolutely. She was sick and faint; they did +all they could, brought her brandy, put her near an open window--nothing +did any good. She had to retire from the room, go downstairs, have her +dress cut open (there was a knot in the lace and they couldn't unlace +her bodice), and remained extended on a sofa in the hall--train, veil, +feathers, all in a heap. After a rest of two hours, and a cup of tea +(procured with great difficulty, as there is no buffet on these +occasions) she felt better, and her mother hearing from a friend +upstairs, who was "de service," that the Drawing-room was still going +on, was most anxious that the girl should pass, so they arranged her +veil, hair, and feathers as well as they could, tied the bodice of her +dress, and filled in the intervals with some bits of tulle cut from her +veil. She passed, and I don't believe anyone noticed anything wrong with +her dress, and she was so thankful not to have to go through that long +waiting again. It is a most fatiguing day for those who haven't the +entree, as they must sit so long in their carriages in the file. + + #Hatfield#, May 30th. + +We came down yesterday to this most beautiful old place. A large +Elizabethan castle, standing rather high, with courts and terraces in +every direction. We found Lady Salisbury at her tea-table on the terrace +with a lovely view of park and woods on all sides. Various members of +the family and house-party sauntered up, some of the young ladies in +their habits, having been riding; and some guests having walked up from +the station, which is quite near at the end of the Park. After an hour's +talk Lady Salisbury took me to my room (miles away through the long hall +and up a great staircase), and told me dinner was "easy 8." The room is +large, all panelled in oak which has become almost black with age, an +enormous bed (they have always had their sheets made especially for +these beds for more than 200 years, in Germany I think, as no ordinary +sheets could cover more than half). The beds are very long and almost +square. They would easily hold Brigham Young and all his wives. Do you +remember the picture in Mark Twain? Mine was so high I had to take a +footstool to clamber into it. W.'s room, next, about the same. We went +downstairs at 8.10 and certainly didn't dine until after 8-1/2. We were +about 30 in the great dining-room, a splendid hall with portraits of +Queen Elizabeth (one in fancy dress, most curious with bright red hair), +Henry VIII, Mary Queen of Scots, etc. We played cards in the evening and +broke up rather early. This morning Lady Salisbury showed me the +house--most interesting, full of treasures and memories, a great library +with all sorts of letters from the time of Elizabeth, and in the +drawing-room a vitrine filled with relics of the "Virgin Queen." It was +curious to see her gloves, shoes, hat. I think Lady Salisbury was +somewhat surprised at my interest in these last things, but I told her +she must make allowances for the American, who was not accustomed to old +family traditions and souvenirs of that kind. When I think of our +Revolution, then it seems ages ago to me. We enjoyed our visit +extremely, they are all so nice and simple. + +We got back to London this morning and of course dined out somewhere. I +was amused by one of the ladies saying to me after dinner, "Did you +really enjoy your visit to Hatfield? Aren't they all _dreadfully_ +clever?" I don't think I should have applied the same adverb, but clever +they certainly are. Lord Salisbury has such a fine, thoughtful face. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + June, 1885. + +We went to Ascot this morning, a beautiful day, and the lawn like a +flower garden with all the women in their light dresses dotted about. We +lunched with the Prince and Princess of Wales. The Maharajah of Johore +was there, and had brought down his own cook, attired in yellow satin +with a large flat hat on his head. He made a sort of curry for his +master, which everybody tasted--except me--I don't like culinary +experiments, and I think the yellow satin garments didn't inspire me +with confidence. I told Juteau when he came up for orders just now how +far below the mark he was as to costume. + + June 29th. + +I went this afternoon with Francis to Lord Aberdeen's, where they had a +hay-making party. They have a pretty little cottage, or rather a small +farm about an hour's drive from London. There were plenty of people, and +all sorts of amusements for the children; Punch and Judy, lawn-tennis, +and two tea-tables on the lawn. After tea they all rushed down a steep +hill to a field where there were quantities of little heaps of hay, and +harmless wooden pitchforks. They had a fine time rolling and tumbling +about in the hay and making hay-stacks. Then a cow appeared on the +scene, dressed with flowers and ribbons, and the maids made syllabub on +the spot, which the children enjoyed immensely. + +[Illustration: Lady Salisbury] + + June 30th, 1885. + +We dined at Lady Molesworth's with the Duc d'Aumale, who is always +charming, and makes everything easy, as there are always bothering +little questions of official etiquette with non-reigning Princes. He is +a fine type of the soldier-prince. It seems hard that a man of his +intelligence and education shouldn't play a great part in his own +country. + + #Albert Gate#, + July, 1885. + +We had the Court concert this evening. The Duc d'Aumale was there, +looking so well and so royal. He is always charming to us, and we were +very proud of our French Prince. H. came with us and enjoyed herself +extremely. The entrance of the Court amused her very much, the two tall +Chamberlains with their wands walking backwards. She says she never saw +anything so pretty as the curtsey the Princess of Wales made to the +assembled company as soon as she got into the room. What always appeals +in some sort of way to our _irreverent_ American minds is the singing of +the "God Save the Queen," all the company, including Prince and +Princess, rising and standing. + + + _To J. K._ + + #Chevening, Sevenoaks#, + Sunday, July 27, 1885. + +I will begin my letter here to-day, Dear Jan, from the Stanhopes' place, +where we came last evening to spend Sunday. It was awfully hot +yesterday. I almost died on the way from London down, fortunately it was +only an hour. We are a party of 14--Lord and Lady John Manners, Lord +Derby and his step-daughter, Lady Margaret Cecil, Mr. and Mrs. Edward +Stanhope, Mr. and Mrs. Jeune, Lord Boston, a nice young fellow, and a +Mr. Praed, a riding man, who has travelled everywhere. We had tea on the +terrace overlooking a lovely garden and lake, and dined at 8. After +dinner we sat on the terrace, and it was charming, a beautiful full +moon, and not a breath of air. Friday we had the closing festivity of +the season at Marlborough House. A beautiful ball it was, about 600 +people, all the creme de la societe and beautiful dresses and jewels. I +wore my pink and green Moscow dress (my Russian garments have done me +good service this year), and it was much admired. All the Battenberg +family were there in great force, and I renewed acquaintance with the +Prince of Bulgaria, whom I used to know. They had covered in a great +part of the garden, and the room was beautifully arranged with the +Prince's Indian carpets and arms. The supper room, also built out in the +garden, was so pretty--a collection of small round tables for 8 or 10 +persons, with flowers and handsome silver. Prince Albert Victor took me +in, and I had a young Battenberg next. Neither Phelps nor Harry White +was there, on account of Grant's death, which I thought very nice of +them. I danced once or twice after supper, and we came away at 2. I hear +they kept it up until 5, having begun at 11. There is a reception at +Lady Salisbury's on Tuesday, which will be really the end of all things, +and purely political, as all the swells go off to Goodwood Monday. + + 11.30. + +We have just come upstairs after a very hot day. I didn't go to church, +as I knew I could not stand the heat, and talked a little and read very +happily in the big drawing-room till luncheon. Lady Stanhope took me +over the house, which is not very large, but interesting. There is a +charming library full of books and manuscripts and letters, some from +Lord Chesterfield to his son, written in French, and beginning "Mon cher +ami, comment vont les graces et les manieres." After luncheon, we sat +out under the lime trees, and after tea I made a little tournee with +Lord Stanhope and prowled about the park, and went also to the church, +where there are several interesting monuments. This evening we have been +sitting again on the terrace, quite delicious. I in my white dress, with +nothing on my shoulders. + + #London#, + Tuesday, 28th. + +We got back yesterday at 2 o'clock and the weather has changed to-day. +It was very hot all day yesterday. I spent the afternoon on my sofa +until 6.30, when we went for a ride and met the few last people who are +still here. Last night we discussed our summer plans, and I shall go +over to France on Saturday with Francis, stay three or four days in +Paris, and then go down to St. Leger. It is curious how London is +suddenly empty. There were not 5 carriages in the park yesterday. This +morning I have been careering about the stable-yard trying a new habit. +They are so difficult to make in these days, so tight that the least +change of saddle makes them go every way but the right one. I don't know +if I wrote after the Harwoods lunched with us. W. was much pleased with +them and found them a most attractive family. The girls are charming, so +pretty and simple. I must stop, as Holmes (the English butler) is +waiting for me to tell him all sorts of final arrangements before we +start. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #Albert Gate#, + November 9, 1885. + +The young King of Spain is dead. The Ambassador, M. de Casa La Iglesia, +was to have dined with us. He sent a note at 5.30 saying that he must +give up the pleasure of dining with us for a "bien penible raison," but +without saying what it was--so one of the secretaries went off "aux +informations" and came back with the news that the King was dead. Poor +young fellow, his reign was short. + + December 5th. + +We had a service at the Spanish chapel in Manchester Square for the King +of Spain. All the Diplomats and official world there. It was very +long--all the ladies were in black--Comtesse Karolyi (Austrian +Ambassadress) and Comtesse de Bylandt (wife of the Dutch Minister) in +crepe, long veils. They told me I was not at all correct, that a crepe +veil was "de rigueur" for crowned heads. I thought I was all right in +black velvet, a tulle veil, and black gloves (in fact was rather pleased +with my get-up), but the ladies were very stern. + + #London#, + December 15, 1885. + +I wish you were here this morning, Dear, as the Embassy is a +curiosity--might just as well be in Kamtchatka as far as the outside +world is concerned--for nothing exists beyond the walls of the house. +When they drew back my curtains this morning I couldn't really think for +a moment where I was. Adelaide had a lighted candle in her hand (it was +8.30 o'clock in the morning) and I thought my window panes had been +painted a dirty yellow in the night. However it was only a yellow London +fog; I could literally see nothing when I went to the window. It has +lightened now a little, but we have had lamps for breakfast, and I am +writing with my candles! The big shops opposite are all lighted, and one +sees little glimmers of light through the fog. I can't see across the +street. The fog gets into everything--was quite thick and perceptible in +the hall when we went down to breakfast. The coachman has been in and +said he couldn't take out his horses, not even with a link-boy running +alongside, so let us hope it will brighten up a little in the course of +the afternoon. + + December 16th. + +The fog did lift about 4; but the day was trying and the traces most +evident the next day, as everything in the house was filthy--all the +silver candlesticks and little silver ornaments that are on the tables; +the white curtains--in fact everything one touched. I should think +laundresses would make their fortune in London. My maid came to my room +about 3 o'clock, just as I was going out, with her apron really black +with smuts. I said, "What in the world have you been doing, cleaning the +chimneys?" "Non, Madame, je n'ai fait que travailler chez Madame et dans +la lingerie; j'ai voulu montrer mon tablier a Madame, c'est le troisieme +que je mets depuis ce matin...!" + + December 17, 1885. + +Yesterday I made an excursion to the city with Hilda Deichmann and her +husband to buy things for our Christmas trees. It was most amusing +ransacking in all the big wholesale houses, and reminded me of my +childish days and similar expeditions to Maiden Lane. There is so much +always in England that recalls early days. I think it is not only the +language, but the education and way of living are the same. We have read +the same books and sung the same hymns, and understand things in the +same way. Our shopping was most successful. All the prettiest things +come from the German shops. The ginger-bread animals were +wonderful,--some horses and dogs with gilt tails and ears most +effective. The decorations were really very pretty--the stars and angels +quite charming. When we had finished our shopping Deichmann took us to +Pym's, a celebrated oyster cellar, to lunch. A funny little place well +known to all City people. We had a capital lunch--all oysters. + +This afternoon we have been playing, 8 hands, two pianos, which was +interesting. Two of our colleagues, Princess Ghika, Roumanian Legation, +and Countess de Bylandt, Dutch, are excellent musicians. They lead, and +Hilda and I follow as well as we can. I am the least good, but I manage +to get along, and of course whenever I know the music my ear helps me. +We have two fine Erard grand pianos in the drawing-room, which is large, +and fairly light for London. I was much tempted by a beautiful Steinway +piano, but thought it right at the French Embassy to have Erards, which +are of course fine instruments. I fancy Steinway is more brilliant, but +I think we make noise enough, particularly when we are playing +Wagner--the _Kaiser March_ for instance. + + December 23d. + +It was not very cold this morning, so I tried the new horse, and he went +very well. I have had a thick hunting habit made, and was quite +comfortable, except the hands, which were cold at starting. I fussed all +day over the Christmas tree which we are to have on the 26th, and this +evening we had a small farewell dinner for Nigra, the Italian +Ambassador, who is going away to Vienna. I am very sorry, as he is a +good colleague and an easy and charming talker. He sat a long time with +me the other day talking over his Paris experiences and the brilliant +days of the Empire--Tuileries, Compiegne, etc. It was most interesting +and new to me, as I only know Paris since the war (1870) and have never +seen either Emperor or Empress. I suppose I never shall see her, as she +never comes to London, and lives a very secluded life at Farnborough +with a small household, and some Paris friends who come sometimes, not +very often, to see her. What a tragic "fin de vie" hers is, having had +everything and lost everything. We had also the Russian and Spanish +Ambassadors--Staal charming, clever, easy, simple--"simpatico," the only +word I know in any language which expresses exactly that combination of +qualities. Casa La Iglesia, the Spaniard, is a tall, handsome, +attractive-looking man. He made havoc in the various posts he has +occupied, and when we want to tease him we ask him about his departure +from Berlin, and all the "femmes affolees" who were at the station to +see the last of him. Henrietta and Anne have arrived for Christmas, +laden of course with presents and souvenirs for everybody, and Francis +is quite happy with his aunts. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #Albert Gate, London#, + December 24, 1885. + +The sisters and I have been shopping all day getting the last things for +the tree, which is to be on the 26th. The streets are most animated, +full of people, all carrying parcels, and all with smiling faces. The +big toy-shops and confectioners crowded. "Buzzard," the great shop in +Oxford Street, most amusing; hundreds of Christmas cakes of all sizes. +There are plum cakes frosted with sugar icing, the date generally in red +letters and a sprig of ivy or evergreen stuck in at the top. We had +ordered a large one, and they were much pleased to do it for the French +Embassy, and wanted to make the letters in "tri-color," red, white, and +blue. We wound up at the Army and Navy Stores, and really had some +difficulty in getting in. They had quantities of Christmas trees already +decorated, which were being sold as fast as they were brought in. + +There were splendid turkeys, enormous; and curiously enough they told us +many of them came from France, from a well-known turkey farm in the +Loiret. I must ask the Segurs, who live in that part of the country, if +they know the place. There were quantities of plum-puddings of all sizes +and prices, and it must be a very poor household that doesn't have its +plum-pudding to-morrow. We were glad to get back to tea and hot buttered +toast--a thoroughly English institution. I would like some of my French +servants to learn how to make it, but I don't suppose they will. In fact +I don't know exactly who makes it here--I am quite sure neither Juteau +nor his "garcon de cuisine" would condescend to do anything so simple. I +suppose it isn't the "odd man" who seems to do all the things that no +one else will, but I sha'n't inquire as long as it appears. + +We had a quiet evening--talked a little politics while W. was smoking. +Henrietta always sees a great many people of all kinds, and tells him +various little things that don't come to him in his official despatches. +The house is comfortable enough, though there is no calorifere, and it +is a corner house. There are enormous coal fires everywhere, except in +my bedroom and dressing-room, where I always burn wood--and such +wood--little square pieces like children's blocks. + + Christmas Day. + +It was dark and foggy this morning, we could hardly see the trees +opposite, and the lamps are lighted in the house and the streets. +Francis was enchanted with his presents. I think the billiard-table from +Paris and the big boat ("aussi grand que Monsieur Toutain"--one of our +Secretaries) were what pleased him most. There is a sort of sailing +match every Sunday morning on the Serpentine. Some really beautiful +boats (models) full-rigged, and it is a pretty sight to see them all +start a miniature yacht race across the river. Francis always goes with +Clarisse, and Yves, his own little Breton footman, carries his boat, +which is much bigger than he is, also Boniface, a wise little +fox-terrier who knows all about it, and gallops around the top of the +lake to meet his master's boat on the other side. They have also one of +the Park keepers and a gigantic policeman, who is always on duty at +Albert Gate, to look after them. Not a useless precaution, as the boat +often gets entangled in the reeds, and _has_ been known to go to the +bottom of the lake, and Boniface always gets lost and is brought back by +a policeman or a soldier, or a friend--Hilda Deichmann brought him back +one day. + +We had a cheerful Christmas dinner--all our personnel--M. Blanchard de +Forges, Consul General, and Villiers, the correspondent of the "Debats" +in London. We did a little music after dinner. I tried for some +Christmas carols "We Three Kings of Orient Are" (do you remember that at +Oyster Bay? how long ago it seems), but the English-speaking element was +not strong enough. We danced a little, winding up with a sort of Scotch +reel--Henrietta, Waru (our Military Attache), and Petiteville being the +chief performers. + + December 26th. + +We are all rather exhausted after the Christmas tree; however, the +children were quite pleased, and the tree really very pretty. A gigantic +pine, reaching to the top of the ceiling in the ballroom, a star on the +top and very well lighted. We had 34 children of all ages and +nationalities, from Nadine Karolyi, aged 18, daughter of Count Karolyi, +Austrian Ambassador and Doyen of the Corps Diplomatique, to Florence +Williams' baby girl of 16 months. The little ones were sweet, speechless +at first, with round eyes fixed on the tree, and then little fat arms +stretched out for something. The children's tea-table looked pretty, +arranged with coloured candles and holly, and an enormous Christmas cake +in the middle with a wreath of holly around it. Nadine Karolyi cut the +first slice of cake, as daughter of the Doyen she sat on Francis's right +hand, and Thekla Staal, daughter of the Russian Ambassador, on his left. +W. was much amused at the correct placing of the young ladies. We start +to-morrow for Knowsley and Luton Hoo, and the packing is quite an +affair. I take 10 dresses, besides jackets, hats, etc. I must have short +costumes to follow the battues for fine and bad weather--a swell day +dress, as we are to lunch at Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place near +Knowsley; and two ball dresses, as there is to be a county ball for all +the neighbourhood at Luton, New Year's night, and a small dance with a +cotillon (which is unusual in England) the next night. Adelaide is +rather fatigued, as besides my trunk she has to finish off her +toilettes, and she has just come in to ask me if she shall take the +regulation black silk, or a blue silk, which is more dressy; as they +tell her the _ladies_ in the housekeeper's room are very dressy at +Luton. I said the blue silk by all means--she must be up to the mark. +The fog has kept up pretty well all day. I hope it will clear to-morrow, +we are going straight into the coal country. Knowsley is near Liverpool, +and I fancy it is always dark there. + +I was telling Nigra the other day about our first Roman Christmas and +what an impression it made upon us. Such a splendid winter, always a +bright blue sky, and roses straggling over all the old grey walls. The +Pifferari singing to the Madonnas at all the street corners, the +midnight Mass and mysterious Pastorale in St. Peter's at early dawn with +the tapers trembling on the high altar so far away; and the grand +Christmas ceremony at St. Peter's, with all the magnificent pomp of the +Catholic Church in Rome. We talked on for some time about "Roma com' +era," which of course he doesn't regret, and I told him of our last +night in Rome, when we all went "en bande" to drink at the Fountain of +Trevi (which is supposed to act as a charm and to bring people back to +Rome). I remember quite well how tearful I was when we left. I didn't +think then that life was worth living out of the shadow of St. Peter's, +and think so a little still even now, though my lines have lain in very +different places. + +We leave Francis in the sisters' charge, with the joys of a pantomime +before him. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Knowsley#, + December 29, 1885. + +We arrived here late yesterday afternoon. It is a long, uninteresting +journey (almost to Liverpool), was cold and foggy all the way down, and +we found snow when we arrived in the Park--also a perfect gale of wind, +the enormous bare, black winter trees swaying like poplars. The large +house, with all the facade brightly lighted, gave us at once a cheerful +welcome. Lady Derby was waiting for us in the long, low drawing-room +with tea, and we went up almost immediately to dress for dinner. We had +sent the servants by an earlier train, which was convenient, as they had +time to unpack and have everything ready for us. We have a charming +apartment--a very good-sized salon, with bedrooms large and comfortable +on each side. The salon furnished in a bright chintz, and good pictures, +mostly family portraits, on the walls. There were blazing fires +everywhere--these enormous rocks of Liverpool coal one sees here. I +instantly proceeded to demolish mine in my bedroom. Adelaide had already +tried to make the housemaid understand that her lady didn't like warm +rooms, but the other one pointed to the snow under the windows, and +heaped on her pieces of coal. + +Dinner was at 8 _punctually_ (which was a contrast to Hatfield, where we +had been staying the other day. There dinner was easily half past eight, +and after we had been at table some little time various friends and +members of the family appeared, and slid quietly into their places at +the end of the very long table). There is a large family party here and +some other guests, including the two historians, Froude and Lecky, both +most interesting. + +[Illustration: Knowsley Hall + +The Earl of Derby's place at Prescot Lancashire] + +We dined in a fine hall with family portraits of all the Derbys, from +the first one at Bosworth down to the present Earl, who is the 16th Earl +of Derby. There was beautiful plate on the table--fine racing cups--as +the Stanleys were always quite as much racing men as statesmen. These +are such curious things in England, the love of sport is so strong. +Fancy any of our statesmen, Thiers, Guizot, Dufaure, etc., with racing +stables. Lord Derby is very easy and rather inclined to chaff Americans +a little, but I didn't mind. The evening was short after we adjourned to +the drawing-room. Lady Derby is rather delicate, and is suffering just +now from a bad eye. I sat some time in my comfortable room upstairs, but +was glad to get to bed early after the cold journey. W. went off to the +fumoir, and had a most interesting talk over Ireland and Irish questions +with Mr. Lecky. This morning was awful; snow, sleet, and a cold +rain--however, the sportsmen were not to be deterred by any such mild +obstacle, and started at 9.30 in a big break with four horses. I watched +the departure from my window, and was very glad I was not going to make +any such expedition. I had my breakfast upstairs, and had an amusing +explanation with the housemaid who appeared at 9.30 with an enormous +tray and breakfast enough for a family--tea, beefsteaks, cold +partridges, eggs, rolls, toast, potatoes, buns and fruit--you never saw +such a meal. She couldn't believe that I only wanted tea and toast and +an egg (which was an extra, but as I knew we should only lunch at two, +and I am accustomed to have my dejeuner a la fourchette at 12, I was +sure I should be hungry if I didn't take something), and asked me most +respectfully if I was not well, and would like something else--"a little +soup perhaps." + +I went downstairs about 12 and found the ladies in the drawing-room all +complaining of the cold. Lady Derby took me over the house--it has not +the beautiful proportions of Hatfield--is long, low, and rambling, but +most comfortable. The library is a fine room with deep window recesses, +and most comfortable with a bright fire burning. The librarian was there +and showed us some of his treasures, among them an old copy of the +"Roman de la Rose," and various old manuscripts. We went on to the +dining-room, and Lady Derby explained the family portraits to me. The +long, unbroken line of Earls of Derby is most interesting, and the +change in the portraits for the two or three generations where the +French blood shows itself, most curious. The wife of the Earl of Derby +who died on the scaffold, giving his life for his King, was the famous +Charlotte de la Tremouille, who defended her castle--Lathom House--so +gallantly against Fairfax and his Roundheads. Do you remember one of our +school-room books in America, "Heroines of History," where there was a +description of the siege of Lathom House, and a picture of the Countess +of Derby standing on the ramparts in a riding habit and hat and feathers +and apparently loading a cannon herself and showing a gunner how to +point it? + +The portraits are most interesting; first the regular Saxon type, then +the French streak, pale oval faces, and dark eyes and hair (not unlike +the Stuarts, who have always a foreign look); then the true British, +more and more accentuated down to the present Earl. They have also in +one of the halls the block on which the Lord Derby knelt who was +beheaded in 1631. + +The sportsmen arrived about tea-time, apparently neither cold nor tired, +and having had a fine shoot. + + New Year's Day, 1886. + +We are leaving this afternoon for Luton, Mme. de Falbe's place, where +there is a ball and cotillon to-night. We were to go and join the +shooters yesterday, but it was rainy and cold, and the ladies didn't +care to go out. The talk at luncheon was pleasant; Froude is brilliant +and easy. His American experiences and stories were amusing, but I told +him he mustn't take the very eccentric ladies and gentlemen whom he had +encountered as specimens of Americans. I didn't know any such people, +that really most of us were quite quiet and ordinary, and like everybody +else. Lord Derby rather urged him on, and was amused at our perfectly +amicable discussion. We drove over to Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place, +after lunch. The park is fine and they have capital shooting. Our +evening was quiet, and we broke up early, as they always have a midnight +service in the chapel on New Year's eve for the family and servants and +any of the guests who like to attend. We left the drawing-room at 10.30, +so that the servants might put out the lights, finish their work, etc., +and also to have time to get out of our low dresses and jewels. A little +before 12 Lady Margaret Cecil (Lady Derby's daughter by her first +husband, Lord Salisbury) came for us and we went to the chapel. I had +put on a dark cloth dress and jacket, nothing on my head. The chapel was +full, all the servants (including my French maid) and household. Lady +Margaret, looking like a saint in her plain black dress, and beautiful +earnest expression, sat at the little organ, and everybody, gardeners, +keepers, coachmen, cooks, housemaids, joined in the singing. It was very +solemn and impressive. At the end of the service we all went out first, +and then Lady Margaret and her brother Lord Lionel stood at the head of +the stairs and shook hands with all the guests, and all the servants, +wishing all a "Happy New Year." It was a nice beginning of the New Year. +Lord Derby hopes our next one will be also in England and at Knowsley, +but everything is so uncertain, and of such short duration in our +country (especially Cabinets) that we can hardly look forward a year. + + #Luton#, + January 3, 1886. + +Our journey yesterday from Knowsley was not very long, and some of the +country all about Matlock, in Derbyshire, quite wild and lovely. Our +host here is M. de Falbe, Danish Minister, who married Mrs. Leigh, owner +of this charming place. We found the house party, mostly young, +assembled in the morning-room with tea, the ladies all, as usual, in +very dressy tea-gowns. I can't quite get used to that fashion, though I +see it is very practical in the country at this season. Everyone goes +out (in all weathers generally) from luncheon till tea-time, and of +course one must get out of short skirts and muddy boots before coming +down to the drawing-room. We went up early to dress, as Mme. de Falbe +wanted to dine precisely at 8, on account of the ball afterwards. The +house is large, with endless corners and corridors, fine drawing-rooms, +library, and a large chapel with a fine organ. The dinner was handsome +and very well arranged, five round tables, and quantities of silver, +flowers, servants, etc. About 10.30 the company began to arrive, many +county neighbours, Salisburys, Lyttons, Caledons, etc., bringing their +house parties with them. We had a very pretty cotillon. At the end the +children's pony came in carrying two big baskets filled with presents. +The poor little thing was very gentle, but was evidently afraid of +slipping on the parquet floor. + +[Illustration: The Late Earl of Derby + +From a photograph by Franz Baum, London] + + Sunday, 3d. + +To-day has been charming; first the service in the house chapel, very +good organ music--Mme. de Falbe is musical and arranges everything. +After breakfast they organized a paper hunt for the "jeunesse" in the +park, and the older people walked about. The rendezvous was the dairy--a +model one, quite delightful with tiles, and creepers running along the +walls and peeping everywhere in at the windows. One by one the young +people assembled, flushed and exhausted with running, and all clamouring +for tea. Comte Jacques de Pourtales (one of our Secretaries), a young +officer of the Blues, and Forbes, Mme. de Falbe's son-in-law, were the +hares and got in some time before the hounds. After tea Falbe took me +over to the stables, where there were plenty of horses, and also to the +"vacherie," which was perfect. They have 40 small Alderney cows, all the +same breed and colour, pretty little beasts, and so wonderfully clean, +kept like pet dogs. + +The dinner and evening was most lively, choruses, banjos (which is a +favourite instrument in English houses), and every kind of game, +including musical chairs--M. de Falbe at the piano. I think everyone +played except the Falbes and ourselves. W. and Falbe retired afterwards +to the smoking-room, and were deep in foreign politics. Falbe is a +perfect type of the diplomatist, tall, good-looking, and a charming, +courteous manner. We ladies went off about 11, and an hour later we +heard the most unearthly noises in the house. All the men parading the +corridors with banjos, bells, gongs, etc., and singing (if singing it +can be called) at the top of their voices. They stopped at every door to +serenade. The party breaks up to-morrow, and we all go back to London. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #London#, + Sunday, January 17, 1886. + +We had a musical dinner last night for Miss Griswold and Albanesi, and +they sang and played all the evening. Albanesi has a charming, delicate +touch, and plays with all the Italian brio. He told me--what surprised +me--that he was always frightfully nervous when playing in public, and +much preoccupied with the "composition de la salle"--if he saw one or +two unsympathetic faces he had at once a disagreeable sensation! +Gertrude Griswold has always the same lovely voice with a beautiful +clear ring in it, and sings most artistically. + +This morning we have been to church at St. Paul's. It is a fine service, +a splendid organ, and very good well-trained choir--but not at all +solemn. I felt as if I was in one of the great Catholic cathedrals in +Italy. People were coming and going all the time, and walking about the +church. It is so enormous that it is quite a walk from the big doors to +the small (comparatively) enclosed space where the congregation +assembles. + +I have been at home all the afternoon receiving--men only, which is a +regular London custom. Adams came in at tea-time. He and W. always like +to have a good talk over old times. They were at school and college +together, and Adams, when he was Charge d'Affaires at the British +Embassy, used to have all sorts of questions to treat with W., who was +then Ministre des Affaires Etrangeres in Paris. They always began their +conversations in French, and then fell into English, which of course +they had always spoken together. + +To-night we have a small dinner for Rustem Pacha, and I have asked one +or two people in the evening. I should like to be at home always on +Sunday night, as we did in the Champs Elysees, but they tell me no +English will come. Many of them don't go out on Sunday night, and don't +take their horses out, and give servants a rest. I asked Lady A., who is +very mondaine, if she would come to dinner to meet a few colleagues, and +she said--"Dear Mme. Waddington, let me come another night; I never take +out my carriage and servants on Sunday." + +Jean Gordon Gumming is very much exercised over what she calls my French +ways, and constantly tells me people don't do such and such things in +England; but I always tell her the French Embassy is _not_ England; +however, she is rather worried over me, and finds me un-English (which +is not surprising) and unconventional, which is also not surprising, +considering my nationality. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + January 21, 1886. + +We have had a great function to-day, the Queen opened Parliament. We all +went in gala, Countess D'A. and P. with us, the men in uniform, I in red +satin, low, with diamonds and feathers. The road was lined with +policemen and mounted soldiers in lieu of infantry, as there would have +been with us. As we passed through the Horse-Guards the trumpeters +saluted. We went at once into the great hall of the Lords', which was a +fine sight. All the peers were there in their scarlet robes trimmed with +white fur, and the women in low dresses, diamonds, and feathers +(feathers play a great part in all English toilettes). The Judges also +were in full dress, with wigs and gowns. About 1.30 the Princes began to +arrive, Prince of Wales, Dukes of Edinburgh, Connaught, and Cambridge +all also in scarlet robes with bands of ermine and gold, and the collar +of the Garter. We sat close to the Throne (Countess Karolyi didn't come, +so I was Doyenne), then Madame de Staal and the Duchesses Bedford, +Hamilton, Sutherland, and others. The Prince of Wales stood next to me +some time, presenting the Duke of Connaught, whom I had not seen, and +talked pleasantly enough, explaining various things to me; also said he +was rather shy at taking his seat on the raised platform until the last +moment. He had an arm-chair on the right of the Throne. I asked him for +whom the other arm-chair was and he said it was his father's, had never +been used since his death, and showed me the Saxon arms on it. The three +brothers, Wales, Edinburgh, and Connaught, remained standing together. +The other Princes, Christian, Duke of Teck, and Henry of Battenberg, +were opposite to us; Battenberg, who has a slight, stylish figure, +looking handsome in British Volunteer Uniform (dark green) with the +collar of the Garter. Teck looks badly, older and thinner. He must have +been a very handsome man (which, by the way, he tells one frequently). +When Prince Alexander of Battenberg was at one of the Court balls +everyone was talking about him and saying what a magnificent man he was. +Teck, who was dancing a quadrille with me, was much put out, and said to +me, "Do you really find Battenberg so very handsome? It is a pity you +didn't know me when I was his age; I was much handsomer," and appealed +to Count D., Austrian Ambassador, an old friend and "compagnon d'armes," +to support his statement, which I must say he did most warmly, and one +can quite see it. + +All the Ambassadors and men of the Corps Diplomatique faced us--the +English women were upstairs. About 2.30 (we had been there since 1.30) +we heard a trumpet call, and all the company stood up. We women dropped +our cloaks, and the Prince took his place standing on the dais. +Presently appeared the Garter King-at-Arms and various officers of the +household. The Duke of Portland stood on the right of the Throne holding +a Royal crown on a cushion. Lord Salisbury (Premier) carried a large +sword with a double handle, and then came the Queen followed by Princess +Beatrice and Princes Eddie and George of Wales. The Queen was dressed in +black satin with a long train, lined and trimmed with ermine, quantities +of diamonds on her neck and corsage, the blue ribbon of the Garter, and +a regular closed crown of diamonds, and white veil. As she came in the +Prince of Wales advanced, touched the ground with one knee, kissed her +hand, and led her to the Throne. He did his part most easily and +gracefully, and didn't look at all shy. The Queen's train was carried by +Sir Henry Ponsonby and two pages in red and gold. Princess Beatrice and +the Duchess of Buccleuch (Mistress of the Robes) stood behind the Queen +on her right, Princes Eddie and George on her left, Lord Salisbury, +Halsbury, Lathom, and some others were also on the dais. As soon as the +Queen was settled on her Throne she bowed to us all right and left. We +made deep curtseys, and then she made a sign that we were to sit down. +There was a few moments' silence while they went to summon the Commons. +Then one heard a noise of scrambling and racing in the corridors--and +they appeared; the Speaker, looking very well in his wig and gown, came +first, fairly shot into the hall like a bomb by the impatient crowd +behind him. Then the Lord Chancellor, asking the Queen's permission, +read her speech in a clear, distinct voice, so that one heard every +word. It was very short, and as soon as it was over the Queen went away +with the same ceremony as when she came. When she got to the foot of the +dais she made a very pretty half curtsey. The Princes left directly +afterwards--we too. The crowd in the street was tremendous, everyone +always is anxious to see the Queen, and much excited over the +cream-coloured Hanoverian horses which she uses when she goes anywhere +in semi-state. As they only go out very seldom it is rather a +responsibility for the Master of the Horse to see that they are +perfectly quiet. + + #Windsor#, March 8, 1886. + +We are at Windsor for the second time to dine and sleep, and we are +"Doyens" now, so have a sweller apartment in one of the towers--the +walls so thick that they make splendid deep window recesses (and a +piano). We had asked an audience of Princess Beatrice, who received us +before dinner about 7. I wore my brown velvet in which I had come down, +and we found her in a small salon with a piano and pretty pictures and +bibelots about. She was in an ordinary red costume, and was rather cold +and shy at first, but thawed when Battenberg appeared. He has a +delightful easy way, that sort of charm that so many Poles have. The +party was a small one--no other diplomats but Mr. and Mrs. Phelps, both +charming, and some English. The ceremony was quite the same as before. +The Queen came about nine and went alone into the dining-room, and had +her two sons-in-law, Christian and Battenberg, on each side. W. took in +Princess Beatrice, and Mr. Phelps me, so I was quite happy. The Queen +spoke little, in German, principally, to her neighbours, the English +scarcely at all, and almost in whispers. I don't know what would happen +to me if I dined often at court, I couldn't sit at table for an hour +without talking to someone. Mr. P. says American women are not made for +courts and convenances. They lose all their charm if they are not +natural, and I think he is right. The cercle lasted about an hour. The +Queen and I talked music. She regrets Muenster, who is going to Paris. + + #London#, March 9. + +We were asked this morning if we would like to drive to the Mausoleum +before we went back to town, which we accepted of course. W. and I went +in an open carriage, a pair of horses and postillion, and Lord Thurlow, +Lord in Waiting, with us. In the next came Mr. and Mrs. Phelps with Mrs. +F., Lady in Waiting. We drove down the "long walk" to the Mausoleum, +which is not very far from the Castle. It is a handsome building with a +fine marble floor like some of the old Italian chapels. The tomb of the +Prince Consort is very fine, with a recumbent marble statue and a place +beside it for the Queen when her turn comes. There is a pretty monument +"In Memoriam" to Princess Alice (of Hesse) with her child in her arms, +and a tablet to the memory of John Brown as "a grateful tribute from +Queen Victoria to the faithful servant and friend of 34 years." We then +drove to Frogmore and saw the farm, basse-cour, dairy, etc., and took +the 12.30 train back to London. This evening we have had a handsome +dinner and reception at the Russian Embassy; the whole house open, band +playing, and all London there. The Duchess of Edinburgh dined. Corti +made his first appearance in the "grand monde" as Ambassador. He is much +pleased to be in London. I don't know if he and W. will be very cordial +colleagues, as Corti decidedly resented W.'s attitude in the Berlin +Congress. + + + _To J. K._ + + #Clieveden, Maidenhead#, + Sunday, March 29, 1886. + +I will begin my letter this evening, Dear Jan, in this most lovely place +of the Duke of Westminster's which Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassador, +always hires, until after Easter, as his wife hates to spend the winter +in town. We came down yesterday afternoon with one of their secretaries, +a nice young fellow. We found the Karolyis alone in a charming library +filled with books in all languages, and with the most enchanting view of +the Thames--quite like the view from Richmond Terrace, if you remember +it. They gave us tea--and about 7 we went up to our rooms. Mine is the +one the Duchess always has, and W. has the dressing-room next, a large +room, all hung with rose-coloured silk, faded into yellow now, an +enormous bed with yellow silk curtains and counterpane, a bath-room with +marble bath opening out of a little passage, quite complete, and always +the same divine view. The rooms are filled with pictures, souvenirs of +all the Sutherlands (whose place it was originally), Westminsters, and +all the English Royal family of all ages. At 8 a gong sounded and we +went down to the library (where they live entirely), and found them +there with the addition of Count Victor Karolyi, a cousin. The dinner +was good, 4 servants, their chasseurs, in Hungarian uniform, 2 in black +and one in plain livery. After dinner the 2 Karolyi men sat down to +cards, W. and the young man talked, also Mme. K. and I--and all the men +smoked. It was easy enough, as everyone talked a great deal. We broke up +at 11. This morning we had breakfast at 10, and afterwards Mme. K. +showed me the house, which is very handsome, one large, beautiful +drawing-room opening on the terrace and river view. They live only in +the library, as the rest is so enormous to light and heat. At 12 M. and +Mme. de Staal, the Russian Ambassador and his wife, arrived, and we went +for a stroll in the grounds. Went out again after lunch for a long walk +down by the river in short skirts and thick boots, as it was very +damp--almost always is on the banks, generally low, of the Thames. It +looked very pretty and gay, quite a number of boats and some people we +all knew, staying in one of the houses near, got out of their boats and +walked along with us. We came in for tea at 5.30, and after that +adjourned to our respective rooms till dinner. The evening was pleasant, +as we were more numerous and Staal talks a great deal. Now I am going to +bed, as it is 11 o'clock, and we breakfast at a quarter to ten +to-morrow, and get back to London at 11.30. + +[Illustration: The Countess Fanny Karolyi 1888 the Austrian Ambassadress + +From a photograph by Walery London] + + #London#, Monday, 30th. + +We got back this morning at 1 for lunch, and have been in a wild state +ever since with the bad news from Tonkin and the defeat of our troops. +The Ministry is out, and Heaven knows what will happen. W. is as blue as +indigo over the news, as he had been very cocky over Tonkin, as compared +with the English blunders in the Soudan. Already there are despatches in +the clubs here, saying W. has been asked to take the Foreign Office. Of +course he hasn't been asked, and I hope he won't be, for I should hate +to begin that official life in Paris again, and I am very happy here +now--however, one never knows in political life. Do you know anything +about Phelps? W. is very anxious to have your opinion. He says you ought +to know about a Vermont man. He will have a difficult "succession." Mr. +Lowell is much liked and admired. + + #London#, + April 10, 1886. + +We have had a pleasant morning luncheon at Roll's Court with Lord Esher, +who showed us a quantity of most interesting old manuscripts. A letter +from "Bloody Mary" to Cardinal Pole announcing her "grossesse" (the +arrival of a Prince), also the confession and signature of Guy Fawkes +after torture, such a wavering, faint signature, "Guido." It is +extraordinary how all the papers and handwriting have lasted. All these +old-world things are so interesting to me, I seem to realize history so +much more. I hope to get over to Paris for a little this month. We had a +nice party (music) at Louisa Lady Ashburton's this evening, and an +interesting collection of people, fashionable, literary, and _Salvation +Army_. The house is crowded with statues, pictures, and artistic +treasures of all kinds. + + + _To J. K._ + + #Ambassade de France a Londres#, + Sunday, May 29, 1887. + +We seem to have a gleam of sunshine this afternoon, Dear Jan, after +weeks of bleak east winds and grey skies, and we are going to take +advantage of it to drive out to White Lodge, Richmond Park, and see the +Tecks. We are revelling in Whitsuntide recess, and no dinners or +banquets until Friday, the second Court Concert. Last night I went to +the Opera with the Staals. It was "Faust," very well given, with Albani, +Scalchi, and Gayare. The house was fairly brilliant, but not full--the +Prince and Princess of Wales, Rothschilds, and a certain number of +people, who came to hear Albani (she is such a favourite here). I should +think it would be a losing operation. Tell Janet Mlle. de Staal looks so +nice, is so much more animated, really very pretty, so high bred and +always well dressed. Lady Salisbury's reception at the F. O. on Tuesday +for the Queen's Birthday was very brilliant; there were quantities of +Princes; a Danish Prince, brother of the Princess of Wales; a young +Russian Grand Duke, a son of the late Prince Frederick Charles, brother +of the Duchess of Connaught, and any quantity of Maharajahs, covered +with gold and silver embroidery and diamonds and emeralds as big as +eggs. They always make a great fuss over the Indian Princes at +Court--treat them like Royalty, and give them very good places. The +Corps Diplomatique always protests. The lion of the evening was Herbert +Bismarck. From the Prince of Wales down everyone, men and women, was +overwhelming him with attentions. I didn't think the Danish Prince +looked much pleased. He remarked that "Bismarck had a most disagreeable +voice." Lizzie P. was wandering about looking very handsome. I didn't +see Buffalo Bill, which rather surprised me. I suppose he is genuine, +isn't he? He professed to remember Captain King perfectly when I said I +had a brother who had been some time on the plains with his regiment. +Certainly the "Wild West Show" is most original and entertaining. The +Indians look savage enough to satisfy anyone, and Buffalo Bill and the +King of the Cowboys are splendid specimens of frontiersmen. + + Monday. + +I will finish this morning; it is still dark and rainy. We went out +yesterday to White Lodge and had a pleasant visit. It was much too cold +to sit out, so we had tea in the gallery and enjoyed it very much. +Princess Mary is always so easy. The young Princess May looked very nice +in a light tweed with a white waistcoat. She asked after Janet, and +wanted to know if she was to be here this season. I asked Princess Mary +what she was going to wear at the Jubilee Te Deum at Westminster. She +said she had no idea, but she had been told long dress, smart bonnet, +decorations and diamonds. It seems the Queen is going to wear a white +bonnet covered with diamonds. I have asked no questions and mean to wear +a short dress--no one will see, as we do not join any cortege. We arrive +quite simply and go straight to our places. I shall wear white lace with +mousse velvet, and a mousse bonnet with pink roses. Tell Janet, I am +convinced I shall never wear my moire apricot dress from Roulf, that I +couldn't wear last year at any of the Court fetes. I am sure the German +Prince will die. They say he may at any moment, as the excrescence in +his throat may increase, and then he would suffocate. Wouldn't it be +strange if that old Emperor outlived the son. Neither sled nor fans have +yet arrived. I suppose they will appear soon. We have one or two things +we mean to send out, as soon as we have an opportunity--gloves, etc. I +should think some of the 75,000 Americans who are coming over would go +back in the course of the summer. Princess Mary told me yesterday that a +pretty American girl--an heiress--she couldn't remember the name--did I +know?--is probably going to marry a Count Btetju, aide-de-camp to the +Prince of Denmark. It seems he saw her here and fell in love with her at +once. I must stop now. Have any quantity of notes to write. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #London#, + June 14, 1887. + +London is getting ready for the Jubilee and the streets are crowded. +Various Royalties have arrived, and one meets Royal carriages, escorts, +and strong squads of police at every turn. It is warm and lovely +to-day--so was yesterday. W., Francis and I drove out to Sheen, where W. +plays tennis in Lord F.'s private court. I wandered about under the +trees, and Francis sailed his boat in the pond and was quite happy. It +is such a rest to get a few hours in the country when one is going out +all the time as we are here--and above all not to have to talk. We had a +remarkable entertainment last night, given by the Hawaiian Secretary +(who is a German-American) for his Queen, of the Sandwich Islands. We +arrived in due time, I rather protesting. + +There was a large reception after dinner and the mistress of the house +asked us if we wouldn't stand by the Queen and make a sort of cercle, +and a funny contrast we made--Mrs. P. beautifully dressed in white satin +and lace, Lady R. with splendid jewels, I wore my pink brocade and old +Venetian lace. It really was too absurd. I talked a little to the +Princess, who is intelligent enough. The Queen is a great stickler for +etiquette, and insisted upon the same honours as any other Royalties, an +escort of _Life Guards_;--wouldn't accept any less distinguished escort. + + #London#, + June 18, 1887. + +We have had rather an amusing afternoon. I think I wrote you that we +wanted to leave Westminster Abbey the minute the ceremony was over, get +through the line of troops, and back to a friend's house in Piccadilly +to see the cortege--we being Mrs. Phelps and I. Our respective husbands +were most discouraging (as men always are), but we dined last night with +Knowles to meet the Duke of Cambridge, and I told His Royal Highness +what we wanted to do, and asked him if he could help us. After some +little discussion he said he would advise us to go directly to Sir +Charles Warren (Chief of Police) and see what he could arrange for us. +Again our husbands remonstrated, "Warren was overrun with applications +of all kinds, worked to death, and it was very unreasonable," but backed +by the Duke we determined to try. + +I told His Royal Highness I should put on my most becoming Paris bonnet +and beard the lion in his den. He said, "Quite right, my dear, a man is +always flattered when a woman tries to please him," so accordingly about +3 Mrs. Phelps and I started for Scotland Yard. George was rather +surprised when I gave the order. We drove through one or two courts and +were stopped once by a huge policeman, who let us go on when we said it +was the French Ambassadress. We were shown at once into Sir Charles's +room, and I must say he was charming, most kind and courteous. We had +arranged beforehand that I was to be spokeswoman, and I went at once to +the point. He was sitting at his table with letters and papers and +telegrams, the telegraph ticking all the time, despatches and telegrams +being brought in, and as busy a man as I ever saw. He immediately sent +for maps of the route, distribution of the troops, etc., and said he +thought he could manage it. We must have a light carriage (of course we +must go to the Abbey in state in the gala coach) waiting at the Poets' +Corner, as near the door as it can get; he will send us a pass to break +through the lines, and will have three or four policemen waiting for us +at the corner of Piccadilly and one of the smaller streets to pass us +through the crowd. We really didn't derange him very much. The whole +conversation lasted about ten minutes, and he was rather amused at this +sudden appearance of the two "femmes du monde" in his "milieu" of +clerks, policemen, telegraph boys, type-writers and a hurrying, bustling +crowd of employes of all kinds. We returned triumphant to our respective +houses. + +We had a fine reception last night at the Austrian Embassy in honour of +Prince Rudolph. We arrived late, having dined out. The Prince is very +good-looking, slight, elegant figure, and charming manners and smile. +All the world was there--quantities of pretty women, and pretty +dresses--the Countess Karolyi always the handsomest. + + #London#, + June 20, 1887. + +London is really a sight to-day, the streets gay with flags, draperies, +stands, illuminations, and quantities of people gaping all day long. I +went for a drive with Mary Sheridan, daughter of Mr. Motley, late +Minister from the United States to the Court of St. James. We didn't +attempt going down Piccadilly, as we saw what a dense crowd and block +there was, so we crossed to Constitution Hill. We went all round +Westminster Abbey; I wanted to see the Poets' Corner where we are to go +in to-morrow, and the House of Commons stand where she is to be with her +sister. We were blocked for a quarter of an hour standing close to the +Embankment. Some of the mottoes are very nice. I like the humble ones +best, "God bless our Queen." We were a long time getting back to the +Embassy, Piccadilly almost impassable. It was amusing, as everyone was +arranging their balconies, and we recognised various friends standing at +windows, and on balconies directing the arrangement of chairs, plants, +flags, etc. After dinner W. took his cigar and we walked about a little +in Piccadilly. Some of the illuminations had already begun and the crowd +was dense, but no jostling or roughs, everyone good-humoured and wildly +interested in the decorations. London is transformed for the moment and +looks like a great continental city, all lights and flags and an "air de +fete." We didn't stay out very late, as we have a long day before us +to-morrow. They say the Queen is well, but rather "emue" and a little +nervous, which must be expected. I shall wear white, the only objection +to that being that jewels won't show out, as they would on a darker +colour. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Albert Gate, London#, + June 22, 1887. + +I am still exhausted, Dear, with the visions of a brilliant, motley, +moving crowd, when I shut my eyes. Yesterday was beautiful, a glorious +summer day. I was waked up at 6.30 by the dull rumble of carriages, and +people already on the move. I thought they must have forgotten to call +me, but the house was still wrapped in slumber, and though it was only +6.30 the Park was full of carriages, men in uniform and women in full +dress. We started at 9.30 in the gala carriage, W. in uniform, and were +followed by a second carriage, landau, the men equally in gala. We +remained blocked for a long time in Piccadilly, it didn't seem possible +to get on; distracted policemen, mounted and on foot, and officers did +what they could, but there we remained, curiously enough all the +Ambassadors' carriages together. Finally an order was given to let the +Ambassadors' carriages pass, and we got on a little. Various Court +carriages passed us--one so pretty with the three little daughters of +the Duke of Edinburgh all in white with straw hats, and long white +feathers, sitting on the back seat, and smiling and bowing, and looking +quite charming with their fair hair streaming down their backs. They had +an equerry in uniform with them on the front seat. Once past St. James's +Street we went quickly enough thro' long lines of soldiers, and behind +them quantities of people waiting patiently to see the great show. We +went into the Abbey at the Poets' Corner, where an entrance was reserved +for the Corps Diplomatique and Court functionaries. It was a fine sight; +tier upon tier of seats covered with red cloth and filled with men in +uniform, and women in handsome dresses. The Peers and Peeresses sat just +below us and looked very well; as it was Collar Day, all the Garter men +wore their white shoulder-knots, which were most effective. It was very +difficult to distinguish people, the building is so enormous, but as we +were close to the dais we saw all the Royalties perfectly. At last +various members of the Royal Family came in, and the first Sovereign to +enter was Her Majesty of the Sandwich Islands with her cortege; then +came quickly the King of the Belgians, King of Denmark, various other +Princes, and they all took their places on a platform facing the Queen's +dais. We waited some time, and then came a flourish of trumpets which +announced the Queen's arrival. It was most interesting to see her come +up the aisle--quite alone in front--her three sons, Wales, Edinburgh, +and Connaught, just behind her. She was dressed in black with silver +embroidery, a white lace bonnet with feathers, and lace caught back by +diamond pins. As she reached the dais she stepped on it quite alone, and +advancing to the front made a pretty curtsey to the assembled Royalties. +Then came a long procession of family Princes, headed by the Prince of +Wales and the German Crown Prince, who looked magnificent in his white +uniform, and the Princess of Wales and the German Crown Princess. They +all passed before the Queen, and it was most striking to see her seated +there, a quiet figure dressed in black, very composed and smiling, yet +"emue" too, as the long line of children and grandchildren representing +all Europe passed to do her homage. It was a gorgeous crowd of uniforms, +orders, jewels, and really _glittering_ garments of all kinds; but every +eye was fixed on the central figure. The service began at once and was +impressive. The Prince Consort's "Te Deum" sounded magnificent with +organ and full band. I must own to considerable distraction during the +service, as I was quite taken up with looking at everything. When the +ceremony was over--or nearly--we started at once, found our carriage +(ordinary landau) at the Poets' Corner again, and drove quickly around +by Belgravia and Albert Gate (breaking the lines of troops once or +twice, but with no difficulty, as orders had been given), to the corner +of Hamilton Place and Piccadilly. There we had to leave the carriage, +but it was merely a few steps to my friend's house where we were to see +the procession pass; however we should never have got there if we hadn't +found the 4 gigantic policemen who were waiting for us, and who +deposited us rather pulled about, but intact, at the door. We found the +balcony prettily decorated and filled with people, and had an excellent +view of the procession. The Queen's carriage was handsome, an open +landau red and gold, with six cream-coloured horses with red and gold +trappings, and running footmen. She was alone on the back seat; the +Princesses of Wales and Germany on the front seat. The escort of Princes +was very brilliant. The Prince of Wales looked well on a fine horse, and +the German Crown Prince superb, towering over everyone else, and his +helmet shining in the bright sunlight. The cheering was tremendous as +the Queen passed, and one felt it was absolutely genuine (nothing +commande), her people (I always like that phrase so much, "My people," +when she uses it in a speech or proclamation) really delighted to have +her still with them. Another who also was much cheered was Princess Mary +of Teck. They love her, and she looked so happy and smiling as she +acknowledged the salutation. She has such a gracious manner always to +everyone--never seems bored. However I must say that for the Prince of +Wales; no matter what the function is (and he must be bored very often) +he never looks it, but always does graciously, and as if he liked it, +whatever he undertakes. There was a very substantial lunch provided for +us at Lady Borthwick's, and as soon as the cortege disappeared I +clamoured for something to eat, as it was nearly 3.30, and I had had +nothing to eat but my early cup of tea and piece of toast about 8.30. I +went straight back to the Embassy after luncheon--even then, at 4 +o'clock, we had to go at a foot's pace thro' the crowd--and I didn't +stir again all the afternoon, but I had visitors at tea-time, as of +course the windows and balconies giving on the Park were most +attractive. There were thousands of people still in the Park, and Royal +carriages and escorts coming and going; music, flags, and a general +impression of movement and colour everywhere. + +[Illustration: Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the State +Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887. + +From a photograph copyright, by Hughes & Mullins, Ryde, England.] + +In the evening we started at 10 for the Palace, and they thought there +would be such a crowd that we had a mounted policeman, but we had no +trouble. Everyone made way for the carriage, though, of course, the +general traffic was stopped, and everybody (including our own +secretaries, who weren't invited to the Palace, merely the "chefs de +mission") in the middle of the streets, looking at the illuminations. +There was great confusion at the Palace--dinners still going on and +servants hurrying backward and forward with dishes, and piles of plates +on the floor as we passed through the long corridor. We had to pass +through the great hall where the numerous "suites" were dining--and we +naturally hesitated a moment as they were still at table--but Colonel +Byng came forward and ushered us upstairs, and into one of the large +rooms. There were very few people--the "chefs de mission," the Nunzio +who had come expressly, Lord and Lady Salisbury, and Lord C., Indian +Secretary (as there were many Indian Princes). We waited nearly an hour +and were then summoned to the ball-room, where the Queen and Court were +assembled. The Queen was standing, dressed just as she always is for a +Drawing-room, with her small diamond crown and veil, and again the +background of Princes and uniforms made a striking contrast to the one +black-robed figure. The Prince of Wales stood a little behind, on her +right, also Lord Lathom (Lord Chamberlain). We all passed before her, +two by two, with our husbands, and she said a few words to each one, but +no real conversation; it was evidently an effort, and we felt we must +not stay a moment longer than necessary. I talked to one or two people +while the others were passing. The German Crown Princess came over and +talked to us. I asked her if the Queen was very tired. She said not +nearly as much as she expected, it was more the anticipation of the day +that had made her nervous, that she was very agitated when she started, +but that wore off, and she was not very tired this evening, and very +happy, as were all her children, I said, "You might add her people, +Madam, for I never saw such a splendid outburst of loyalty." The Crown +Princess herself is perfectly delightful, so clever and cultivated, and +so easy, with such beautiful, clear, smiling eyes. Do you remember how +much I admired her in Rome the first time I met her? She is always so +kind to us. W. loves to talk to her; they don't always agree, but she +quite understands people having their own opinions, rather prefers it, I +think, as she must necessarily be so often thrown with people who never +venture to disagree with her. The Crown Prince of Sweden also came and +recalled himself to me, and the Duc d'Aoste. The Queen remained about an +hour; then the Royal party moved off in procession, and we got our +carriages as quickly as we could. I have written you a volume (but you +must say that doesn't happen often from my lazy pen, but I felt I must +write at once, or I should never have the courage). Please send the +letter to the family in America. I am dead tired, and my eyes shutting +by themselves. + + #London#, June 22, 1887 + +We went this afternoon with the Florians, Comte de Florian, Secretary of +the Embassy, and Comtesse de Florian, Francis, Baroness Hilda Deichmann +and her children and some of the Embassy men, to the children's fete in +Hyde Park. It was very pretty, and very well arranged; 30,000 children +from all parts of London, and amusements, food, and jubilee mugs +provided for all. We got there a little after 3, and it was warm and +fatiguing standing and walking about. There were various refreshment +tents for the "quality committee," etc., and the children got iced cream +and cakes to their hearts' content, also each a jubilee mug with which +they were much pleased. The Prince and Princess of Wales, with some of +the foreign Princes, came about 4 (and horribly bored the foreigners +looked--naturally). We stood and walked about until 6, when the Queen +arrived. Her procession was rather pretty, just a troop of mounted +police, then the Life Guards, the Indian contingent, and the Queen in an +open carriage with 4 horses, the postilions in black, and two Highland +servants in costume behind. The Crown Princess of Germany, Princess +Christian, and Duke of Edinburgh in the carriage with her; and the Duke +of Cambridge (Ranger of the Park) riding at the portiere. Several Royal +carriages followed, all the women in smart clothes, and the men in +uniform, as the Queen was to make her formal Jubilee entree into Windsor +on leaving London after the fete. There was such a press and jostling +when the Queen came--even the women pushing and struggling to get to the +front, that I should have been nearly crushed with the two children (I +had Hilda and Francis with me) if Prince Hermann of Saxe-Weimar hadn't +recognised me and come to my rescue. He is very tall and broad, so he +made way for me, put the children in front, and then stood behind me so +that no one could get at me. I must say it was a fine struggle, the +ladies used their arms valiantly. A small slight woman would have had no +show at all. The Queen didn't get out of her carriage. The Prince stood +bareheaded at the carriage door all the time the Queen was there, and +various people were brought up and presented to her. I found plenty of +people to talk to, among others the German Crown Prince, who they say is +in a very bad way; he doesn't look changed, perhaps a little thinner, +but the voice has gone. He spoke in a whisper. He noticed the children, +said Francis was very like his father. I told him Hilda was a little +compatriote, and named her to him. He knows her parents well. The Queen +was much cheered as she drove off; then there were more cheers for the +Prince, who acknowledged them most graciously, as he does always. We had +again rather a struggle to get through the crowd and across to the +Embassy, and then at 6.30 I had some tea, got into a tea-gown, and +refused to move again. W. tried to entice me to the Foreign Office where +there was a big reception, but I was utterly incapable of another word +(the heat always tries me so); so he departed sadly, but didn't stay +long--merely showed himself. He said the crowd was awful, and Lord +Cranborne, the son of the house, in a wild state on the stairs, with his +supper list, as he couldn't find half the people. W. told him not to +worry about us, as he was going home, and I was in bed. + +[Illustration: The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the Uniform +Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, London June, 1887 + +From a photograph by Loescher & Petsch Berlin] + + _To H. L. K._ + + #London#, + June 24, 1887. + +Yesterday I had rather a quiet day, I was still so dead tired after the +children's fete. Jean and I drove about in the afternoon. She wanted to +see the "Black Queen," as the Queen of the Sandwich Islands is called, +and we crossed her once or twice driving in the Park. It does look funny +to see her sitting up in the Royal carriage with red liveries. We had a +beautiful ball last night, given by Lord and Lady Rosebery at Lansdowne +House for all the Royalties. The House was beautifully arranged; the +ballroom panelled half way up the wall with red roses and green leaves. +I danced a quadrille with the King of Greece, who is easy and talks a +great deal; he speaks English perfectly well. He asked about the +Schuylers, and spoke most warmly of them--said Schuyler was one of the +few perfectly intelligent men he had ever met, "knew everything about +everything," I must write it to them. The supper was very well arranged, +small tables of eight or ten. Almost all the Royalties were there, but +not the Hawaiian Queen. I asked our host why he hadn't invited Queen +Kapiolani; but he said he really couldn't. The ball was small, and Lady +Rosebery left out many of her friends, who naturally were not pleased. +W. actually stayed to supper--I was so surprised, as he hates it. + + June 24, 1887. + +This afternoon all the swells went to Ranelagh to see a polo match, but +I thought I would reserve myself for the Palace Ball. The Queen didn't +appear, but we had two others, the Queen of the Belgians, and always +Kapiolani. It was badly managed at first, the result being that when the +Court came we had a crowd of people, officers, pages, etc., about four +deep in front of us, so that we could neither see nor be seen, nor +hardly move. When the first "quadrille d'honneur" was being danced we +saw nothing, so after a consultation we all left the ball-room. Then +there were various "pourparlers," and they finally did what they should +have done at first, enlarged the circle, so that we were out of the +crowd and near the Court. There was also a great rush at supper, so that +they had to shut one door for a moment. I didn't see many people to talk +to, but of course it was very difficult. The Grand Duchess Serge looked +beautiful, with splendid emeralds (she is the daughter of Princess +Alice), and the Duchesse de Braganza (daughter of the Comte de Paris) +was charming, so very high-bred, tall and slight, with a pretty little +dark head. I always find the Princess of Wales the most distinguished +looking. She stands out everywhere. Our "Doyenne," Countess Karolyi, was +superb--also with magnificent jewels. The Indian Princes made a great +show, of course, with their silk, heavily embroidered tuniques, and the +quantities of jewels, but they are not often well cut, nor well set, and +they themselves are certainly off color--they look barbarians, and have +such false faces--I wouldn't trust one of them. + + #London#, + July 3, 1887. + +It is delicious summer weather now, and yesterday we went to Buckingham +Palace to see the Queen review the Volunteers. I wore for the first time +my Jubilee Medal. It came Friday with a note from the Duchess of +Roxburghe saying the Queen hoped I would wear it as a souvenir of her +Jubilee. It is a plain little silver medal about the size of a +two-shilling piece, with the Queen's head on one side and an inscription +on the other, fastened to a bow of blue and white ribbon. We three +Ambassadresses are the only women of the Corps Diplomatique that have +it. All the Queen's household have it, Duchesses of Bedford, Buccleuch, +Roxburghe, etc. The Princesses, also, of course, but theirs are in gold. + +It was most amusing waiting in the courtyard of the Palace seeing +everyone arrive. All the Royalties took up their positions at the foot +of the Queen's tribune, and waited for her. Our tribune was on one side +of hers, and one for the Indian Princes opposite. The Volunteers looked +and passed very well; as it was Saturday afternoon and the shops in +London are closed early always Saturday, all the various butchers, +bakers, and candle-stick-makers could leave their shops and parade, and +extremely well some of them looked; stout, heavy men moving quite +lightly and at ease in their stiff uniforms. It was pretty to see the +various Princes break away from their places on the Duke of Cambridge's +staff and ride ahead of the various regiments of which they are honorary +colonels. The Prince of Wales looked well on his handsome chestnut, +which is perfectly trained and steps beautifully. The Duke of Connaught +is a handsome soldier. We were a long time getting away, but as we had +no dinner-party it wasn't of any consequence. It was such a pleasure not +to put on a low bodice and diamonds. I always grumble about putting on +my diadem--as a rule I never wear anything in my hair, not even feathers +(except at Court), and the diadem is heavy. After dinner W. and I went +for a drive along the Thames Embankment--our favourite recreation after +a long, hot day. There are still people about, and a general air of +festivity. + + #London#, + July 21, 1887. + +It is just four years to-day since W. came to London. We got back from +Moscow and the Coronation the 6th, and almost immediately the Minister +offered W. London. My "beau-frere" said he would give us two years when +we came over. I wonder how much longer it will last. We had a big dinner +to-night, and Lord Lathom, the Lord Chamberlain, was next to me. He said +no one could imagine how difficult it had been to arrange everything for +the Jubilee ceremonies; that the Queen was consulted _on every point_, +as she knew more about etiquette and court ceremonies than anyone else. +One day he had 42 telegrams from her. We told him we thought everything +was well managed (except the ball, where all the young officers crowded +in front of us, and stepped on our toes, and on our trains). He quite +admitted that that might have been better done, but also remarked that +he thought the Corps Diplomatique a little exacting; so, as usual, there +are two sides to every question. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #London#, + July 25, 1887. + +We have had a nice outing, Dear, thanks to the Naval Review; two such +beautiful interesting days. I am burned brown as a berry, but, as the +season is over, that is of no consequence, and I shall have plenty of +time at Bourneville to bleach. We started Saturday at 9.30 for +Portsmouth with the Florians, Waru, and R., Naval Attache, in a special +train. The harbour looked so pretty as we came in sight of it. Every +description of vessel (even the "Victory," Nelson's old ship, now a +training ship), and all sorts of ironclads, big steamers, yachts, and +the smallest sort of pleasure-boat, dressed with flags. We went at once +on board the "Helicon," a small despatch boat, especially destined to +the Corps Diplomatique and distinguished strangers. There were about 150 +people on board, all colleagues, also the Arch Duke Regnier of Austria, +and the two young sons of the Duc d'Aoste with their suites. Directly +after us came two great English transports painted white, one for the +Lords, and one for the Commons, and all around us a fleet of ordinary +rowing-boats and barges filled with people--quantities of women and +children. We steamed slowly across the Solent to Osborne to meet the +Queen, and passed close to the great ironclads, which looked monsters, +and formidable ones. We had a handsome substantial lunch on board, to +which we all did honour. There were not many foreign ships. Our two +looked very well and were much admired, an old frigate, the "Iphigenie," +now a training ship, with the midshipmen on board, and the "Elan," a +pretty little despatch boat. There were only two other foreign boats: a +German and a Dutchman. The Italian ships put into Spithead, and then +went off to Dartmouth, no one knows why exactly. Some say they were not +satisfied with their place (they arrived after the French ships, and +would have been decidedly farther off, and behind ours), others that +they were not in good condition, not smart enough; however, they were +not there and the Italian Princesses who had expected to sleep on board, +and meet their brother who is on one of the ships, were much disgusted. +As soon as the "Osborne," with the Queen, the Prince of Wales, and the +King of Greece (we didn't understand the Greek flag at first, as we +didn't know the King was on board), had passed, we followed and went +down the line. It was a beautiful sight, and England could certainly be +proud of her great ironclads filling the harbour, and showing her +strength as a naval power. We went slowly, and it was amusing to hear +the criticisms and appreciations of all the assembled foreigners on the +show--however, I suppose all ironclads now are pretty much alike, only +England happens to have three times as many as any of the rest of us. +About 6 o'clock there was a halt. We of course had tea on deck, and +suddenly we saw quantities of steam launches coming across the water in +all directions. They looked like enormous white birds in the distance. +They were almost all white, low in the water, and going very fast. The +captains of all the ships had been called on board the Queen's yacht to +be received by her. This made a long delay, and our colleagues were +getting impatient, as they foresaw that they would be very late in +getting back to London. We took that opportunity to ask the Captain of +the "Helicon" to bear down toward the "Iphigenie," as we were to dine +and sleep on board. We changed our course a little, and in about 10 +minutes two very smart French boats ran alongside, coming up in grand +style. The three English officers stood on the bridge and helped us off, +and I must say it was all done admirably--not the slightest confusion, +and we were a big party. Our fellow-passengers decidedly envied us. The +Bylandts (Dutch Minister) were much put out. They had asked the Captain +of their ship to let them dine and sleep on board, but he refused +absolutely; said he had just arrived from a long cruise, and was not +prepared to receive anyone. We got to the "Iphigenie" in about 15 +minutes. The Commandant, Noccomore, was standing on the bridge. W. got +out first, then T., and as soon as W. put his foot on the deck, where +all the sailors, officers, and midshipmen were drawn up, there was a +salute of drums and clarions (they couldn't give the regular salute of +guns to the Ambassador, as, when the Queen is in the harbour, no one +else can be saluted). The Commandant gave me his arm, and we went at +once to his quarters (or rather "carre," as they say on board ship). We +passed through a fine room or hall, the entire width of the frigate, +where a good-sized dinner-table was ready. The Commandant asked when we +would dine; we said in a "quart d'heure," just the time to wash our +faces, which were black with smoke and red with sun, and he showed W. +and me our quarters (his of course), and most comfortable. The cabin +large, with a wardrobe, and a large "cabinet de toilette," with English +wash-stand, bath-room, etc. For one person it was perfectly roomy. Of +course when a second bed was put in the "cabinet de toilette" it was a +little small. Mmes. de Florian and Heurtel had the second officer's +cabin, and the men hammocks in some part of the ship. + +The dinner was good and handsome. I had the "Aumonier" on the other side +of me. He was intelligent, ready to talk about anything, and the dinner +was very agreeable. Plenty of talk. W. talked a great deal, and the +naval officers were interesting, as they always are. They have seen so +much, and had such varied experiences. After dinner we had coffee in the +Commandant's salon, and then went on deck, where we spent a delightful +evening. The sea was perfectly calm, not a ripple, and lights +everywhere--all the ships illuminated and sending off fireworks at +intervals. We could hardly see our own, but the little "Elan" looked +very smart and natty. We broke up about 11, and I don't know when I have +enjoyed anything so much as that perfectly quiet summer night on the +water; such a rest after the long day, and early start from London. We +promised to be ready at a quarter to 10 for Mass, and the visit of the +ship. You would have been amused to see how well Drejet did my service +(they asked me if I could do without my maid for one night, as they +really didn't know what to do with her). He told Adelaide he could do +everything for me except my hair, and tying my sash, which seemed to be +a serious performance to him, and really all my dressing things were put +out and a "saut de lit" disposed gracefully over the back of a chair +just as A. always did. I supposed she coached him. I was stirring early +enough the next morning, but I couldn't tie my sash either, so I +wandered out on the deck to have my early tea, and Countess de Florian +helped me to finish my toilette. We went all over the ship before Mass. +The midshipmen's quarters are small, but of course beautifully kept, and +the young men all looked as smiling and prosperous as possible, and were +much pleased at the Ambassador's visit. At 10 o'clock we assembled on +deck for Mass. Part of the deck was covered in with flags, and as a +compliment to my nationality they had put the "Stars and Stripes" +immediately over my head. I was much pleased, as it is a good many years +since I have sat under the old flag. I suppose I can't say _my flag_ any +more, but I feel it all the same. There were three armchairs directly in +front of the altar--two big ones for W. and me and a smaller one between +for the Commandant. As soon as we were seated the Abbe came, made a bow +to W. and me, and began his Mass. It was very impressive--so still, not +a sound except the little waves beating against the side of the ship, +and the word of command for the marines at the raising of the Host, when +there was a fine salute of drums and bugles. We had a very gay +breakfast, the Captain of the "Elan" coming to join us, and at 1 o'clock +we left our hospitable frigate for the "Elan" which was going to cruise +about with us all the afternoon. They certainly received us most +hospitably and charmingly; I shall often think of those quiet hours on +the deck, and the Mass this morning, which impressed me very much. We +had a lovely afternoon on the "Elan," practically doing the Review over +again, and going close up to the big ironclads, such ugly, heavy masses +as they seem when one is near them. We crossed over to Cowes, went +alongside of the Prince of Wales' yacht, but didn't stop. The captain +gave us an interesting account of their reception on the "Osborne." It +seems there was some mistake in the orders brought by the Aide-de-Camp +of the Admiral of the Fleet. The Commandant of the "Iphigenie" thought +he could take several officers with him, and when he appeared on the +"Osborne" with 5 or 6 officers, the Admiral was much embarrassed, and +didn't know what to do, as the Queen intended to receive only the +Commandants. However the Prince of Wales, with his never-failing tact, +said he would put it all right, and in a few moments they were told that +the Queen would be very pleased to receive _all_ the French officers. +They told us they saw a lady in deep mourning, with perfectly white +hair, standing behind the Queen, who looked so earnestly at the French +uniforms, and was agitated when they passed; they only realised +afterward that it was the Empress.[9] I wonder if I shall ever see her, +I would like to so much. We dined on board, anchored just off +Portsmouth, and got back to London about 11 o'clock, having enjoyed our +two days immensely. It was a beautiful ending to the Jubilee, and a +beautiful sight. The "cadre" was so lovely for all those big ships. All +the line of the Isle of Wight is so pretty, beautifully green, and the +Solent covered with boats of all descriptions, and plenty of room for +all. Some of the small row-boats seemed dangerously near the big +steamers, but nothing ever happened. When I get back to Bourneville and +take up my quiet life in the woods, these last days will seem a sort of +fairy-tale. + +[9] Empress Eugenie, widow of Napoleon III., who has lived in England +for many years. + +[Illustration: Comtesse de Florian +From a photograph by Walery, London.] + + #London#, + July 29, 1887. + +We are starting to-morrow. I had a farewell ride this morning, hardly +anyone in the Row, Dandy going beautifully (you know he is the chestnut +I called after the famous horse in one of Charlie's stories), except a +good kick from time to time, which is a bore, not only for me (I lost my +hat the other day), but for the neighbours. We dined at Lord A.'s last +night, and he gave us a funny account of his experience on the House of +Lords boat. To begin with he had much difficulty in getting tickets, and +could get none for his daughters, only himself and Lady A. (and he is +Hereditary Lord Chamberlain), and when he finally did get on the boat he +found it crowded with all sorts of unknown people, very few peers, and +very little food. They were faint with hunger before the end of the day, +so I told him about our handsome dinner and hospitable reception on our +frigate. Bylandt then told us how badly they fared. They cruised about +for some time in the "Helicon" after we got off, then finally the +passengers begged to be landed. They were at last deposited at +Portsmouth, and then made a rush for the buffet in the railway station, +but that had been completely "devalise," there wasn't a crumb, not even +a dry biscuit. Then they were conducted with much pomp to reserved +carriages which were _locked_, and there they remained for over an hour, +seeing various trains start, and at last arrived in London at one +o'clock in the morning. Poor Bylandt was much disgusted. We thought a +little of asking to keep the "Elan" for a week, and of doing the Cowes +week, but W. thought on the whole it would be close quarters, and was +not very keen about it. I should have liked it. We had all the staff who +remain to dine to-night. London is curiously empty--all the chairs being +taken away from the Park, which gives it a decided air of "fin de +saison." + + _To G. K. S._ + + #Albert Gate House#, + March 2, 1888. + +I have been back about two weeks and am quite settled again. I have +always two or three disagreeable days when I first come back from +France. The coal fires try me very much and I think regretfully of the +enormous chimneys at Bourneville and the _trees_ that we burned there. +We have a fog and it is very cold. Francis and I went to skate yesterday +at the Botanical Gardens. The ice was very bad, there was very little +room, and swarms of children struggling along on their little skates, +but the outing was pleasant. I also went one day with a friend to +Wimbledon, and that was better. We drove down and had a pleasant +afternoon, but the ice was soft, and it was the end. Really though, in +March in England, one could hardly expect to skate. + + March 8th. + +Hilda came in this morning with very bad news of the German Emperor. The +Crown Prince was to start from the Riviera, and I am afraid he is in a +bad way too. He looked such a magnificent man at the Jubilee Fetes. Of +course even then his voice and colour showed that something was wrong, +but it was difficult to believe that a mortal disease was mining his +strength. We have had telegrams all the afternoon, and at 5 they told us +the Emperor was dead. We sent immediately to Mrs. Jeune, where we were +engaged to dine to meet Prince and Princess Christian of +Schleswig-Holstein, to know if her dinner was put off; but the answer +came back that the dinner was to take place. We went of course, and +found Princess Christian and Lady Salisbury. Prince Christian, as a +German Prince and a relation of the German Royal Family, did not come; +neither did Lord Salisbury, who had received a telegram from Berlin +announcing the Emperor's death. The Princess looked anxious and was +evidently very much worried at the journey of the Crown Prince in such +weather, in his delicate state. She left almost instantly after dinner. +The Drawing-room is postponed. The Crown Prince starts to-morrow +morning. All eyes are upon him, and will follow his journey with hopes +and fears. + + Sunday, March 18th. + +We all went to the funeral service for the German Emperor this morning +in the German Lutheran Chapel close to Marlborough House. I was quite +correct this time, and was swathed in crepe; Mrs. Lecky has lent me her +long crepe veil, which will serve again probably, as everyone seems to +think the Emperor Frederick is doomed. All the men were in uniform with +crepe on their sleeves and sword hilts (the Germans with their helmets +covered with crepe) and the women in woollen dresses with crepe veils. +Almost all the Princesses were there (not the Princess of Wales), but +the Princes were in Berlin. The service was long, and curiously enough +was _not_ the Lutheran service, but the regular Church of England +service translated into German. It was done, it seems, for George II, +who was obliged to follow the Church of England service, and who didn't +understand a _word_ of English. There was much chanting, two addresses, +and a sermon. + +Everyone of course is talking and speculating over what will happen in +Germany. All the doctors say the Emperor Frederick is near his end. No +one seems to know exactly what will be the attitude of the present Crown +Prince. He is young, intelligent, with an iron will; all good qualities +in a sovereign, but he has little experience and an absolute confidence +in his own judgment. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #London#, April 25, 1888. + +We hear a great deal now here about Boulanger, and there seems to be the +most extraordinary "engouement" for him here as well as in France. +Roustan, the Naval Attache, has just come back from Paris and says the +state of things is very serious, people have lost their heads over +Boulanger. He (R.) thinks it is the most serious crisis France has +passed through since the Commune. W. is less blue--he knows the famous +General very little, but doesn't think there is much character or +backbone there. + +We had a big dinner the other night at Lord Rothschild's, and Lord +Hartington, a well-known political and social figure, sat between me and +the Princesse de Wagram. He naturally asked us, the only two Frenchwomen +at table, what we thought of Boulanger. The Princess spoke most +enthusiastically of him. The one man in France who could regenerate the +country, and who would be supported by all parties. I said exactly the +contrary, and that I thought his popularity and power very much +exaggerated. Lord Hartington was rather amused at the two opinions so +absolutely at variance. + +The Deichmanns came to see us the other day, just back from Berlin, and +in despair over the Emperor. Deichmann said he came into the room with +the same straight, soldierly bearing he had always had, and except that +he was thinner, looked unchanged; but he couldn't speak, and his friends +fear the worst. He is worried too over the friction between the Empress +and Bismarck--too such strong wills in conflict. + + #London#, + April 26, 1888. + +I wonder if you are as cold as I am to-day. I have been driving about +shivering in the open carriage and my seal-skin felt like a foulard. I +think I got cold last night. We had a pleasant dinner at Lord +Knutsford's. I had Count Kufstein next to me. He was for years in Paris +at the Austrian Embassy just when I was first married and making my +debut in the official world. He is here now for the sugar conference, +and we were delighted to go back to old times, as he knows everybody in +Paris of all kinds: Imperialists, Royalists, and Republicans. It wasn't +always easy for a foreigner to get along and not offend somebody. On our +way home W. suggested that we should go in for a moment to the W. H. +Smiths' who had a big political reception. In a weak moment I agreed. It +is not really necessary to go to those big parties--one can be written +down in the book by one of the secretaries, or give the names to the +lady of the _Morning Post_ who sits with her hat and coat behind the +door, and puts down as many names as she can manage. I should think she +would have perpetual rheumatism, as the hall door is open and the +draught something awful. The moment I set my foot in the hall my heart +sank, such a crowd on the stairs, I should think all the House of +Commons and all their female relations. There was a double current going +and coming, and I was thankful not to have my dress torn to bits. We met +Tom Leigh coming down. He said he had been 15 minutes on the same step. +However we did manage to get upstairs--tried to find either host or +hostess, but they had evidently left the door--so after struggling +through one or two rooms packed tight with people I discovered a high +wooden stool behind one of the doors which had evidently been used for +lighting the candles and been forgotten, so I seated myself on that and +told W. I would wait for him there, as he thought he would try and find +some one of the family. I sat there some little time rather interested +in the stream of perfectly unknown faces which passed until I was +rescued by Correa, the Brazilian Minister, who couldn't believe that it +was really the French Ambassadress sitting alone on a three-legged stool +behind the door. W. came back in about a quarter of an hour not having +seen any one he knew, and then we started down the staircase where we +had the same struggle, and the cold air blowing in upon my bare +shoulders. I was cross when I got home--however I suppose exactly the +same thing happens when we have a big reception, as the Embassy is not +nearly large enough. The other night when the Duke of Cambridge dined +with us we had a party afterward. W. went down to the door with him and +never got up again, there was such a crowd on the stairs. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #London#, May 19, 1888. + +The season is animated enough and we are out every night (not all day, +as so many people are, as we refuse all lunches and teas). Our music the +other evening with Wolff, the young Dutch violinist, and Mdme. Kleeberg, +was nice. We had invited only about 50 people, all musical. Everyone +could sit down (which the men appreciated, as they usually _stand_ in +the doorway all through the concert), and also we were not obliged to +have those rows of gilt chairs which grate so on my nerves. I know the +women hate it so when they are all seated in rows very close to each +other and not a man anywhere near. Wolff played divinely, with so much +tone and sentiment. He had a great success. Mdme. Kleeberg always plays +beautifully. She is well known here and much liked. It was the first +time Wolff had played in London, and he was a little nervous. + +Last night we dined with Lady Delawarr to meet Princess Louise and Lord +Lorne. The Princess is charming; a pretty, graceful figure and +attractive manner, absolutely what the Italians would call "simpatica." +Lord Lorne took me to dinner, and I found him most entertaining and +original. He talked a great deal about Canada and America, and certainly +knows and appreciates "the States." He said if he hadn't been born the +eldest son of an English Duke he would certainly emigrate to the West of +America and pitch his tent there. + +There was a reception and music in the evening, Wolff playing +beautifully, but, alas! no one listening. Lady Borthwick (who is a good +musician) and I moved into the large drawing-room at his request when he +began to play, and I really don't think anyone else scarcely listened, +and certainly no one realised when, after playing a few moments under +great difficulty (people coming and going and talking all the time), he +calmly laid his violin on the piano and stopped. He came up to me to +explain, what I quite understood, that he could hear neither his own +violin nor the accompaniment, and I could not urge him to continue. It +is very hard on the artists, an evening like that. If they don't play +well, everyone criticises; and if they stop altogether, people think it +is high-handed, and criticise equally. I have learnt now by experience +and never invite _many_ people when I have music. + + May 22, 1888. + +We had a pleasant evening last night at Sir Arthur Sullivan's who had a +dinner for the Prince of Wales and the Duke and Duchess Paul of +Mecklenburg. There were all kinds of artists--singing, reciting, and +dancing. An American girl, with a very pretty voice, sang very well, and +Letty Lind was charming. The Duchess Paul looked very pretty and chic, +and was most amiable. The Prince is so nice to artists--always a +gracious word and smile. Sullivan is an excellent host, and keeps +everything going. Just as we arrived the electric light went out. I +couldn't imagine why the house looked so dark as we drove up, for I knew +the Prince was dining, and there was the red carpet which always +indicates Royalty, so there could be no mistake, but the hall-door was +open and lamps and candles being brought in from all quarters. We took +off our cloaks in the dark, but in a very few minutes things were put +right, and the rooms brilliantly illuminated. W. never remains long on +these occasions, but I stayed until the end, even for supper, which was +very gay. + + #London#, May 24, 1888. + +My small musical tea for the Duchess Paul was very successful I think +yesterday. I could not have Johannes Wolff, the violinist, which I +regretted extremely. He plays quite beautifully, with so much "entrain" +and sentiment. I think I have already written to you about him, he is a +Dutchman who was sent to me by Mdme. de Zuylen (you remember Zuylen who +was so long Dutch Minister in Paris). It was a little discouraging at +first, there is such a tremendous concurrence in London, and English +people like to hear the same artists, whom they know well; Joachim, +Sarasate, and Mdme. Neruda have it all their own way. However, I made a +small party for him, all musical people, Lady Borthwick, Mrs. Ronalds, +Tosti, Lord Lathom, etc., and he conquered his public at once. It was +splendid playing and a style quite his own. We replaced him by Mdme. Le +Valloit, who plays very well; and had besides Picolellis (from +Florence), who plays well (cello), and Carpe, the Italian baritone who +has a big voice and sings in the Italian style. The audience listened +pretty well at first, then came tea and the clatter of tea-cups in the +blue room where all the jeunesse had congregated, talking and laughing +and having their tea with a fine unconsciousness of the music going on +in the next room. They are really very tiresome. That reminds me of +Grieg who was very "difficile," and who couldn't stand a sound when he +was playing. He and his wife came to the Embassy one night and played +and sang quite charmingly, and everybody was delighted. Quite at the +last moment one of the Royalties talked a little while he was playing, +and I saw the moment when he would get up from the piano. However, Wolff +and I between us managed to calm him. When it was over I told him what a +success he had had--that the Prince had enjoyed his playing so much, to +which he replied--"Ja, der hat es laut gesagt." + +Duchess Paul was very amiable, stayed until after 7 and seemed to enjoy +it; at least she listened and spoke very nicely to the artists +afterward. I had just time to dress for a dinner at the Austrian +Embassy. + + May 26, 1888. + +We dined to-night with our cousins the Ivor Herberts, a dinner for the +Duke and Duchess Paul of Mecklenburg. We were asked for 8.15, and they +never came until 9, looking quite unconcerned. I can't imagine how the +cooks manage. Juteau tears his hair when we are so late, but he is +getting accustomed to English hours now, and doesn't get ready himself +until a quarter of an hour after the time fixed. We were a perfect bore +to all our friends at first with our French punctuality, and arrived +once or twice before the master of the house. W. consulted Lord +Granville, who told him his rule was to leave his house _at the hour +named for the dinner_; but as we dine sometimes around the corner, and +sometimes at Kensington that is not always practical. People in Paris +are very punctual and never wait more than a quarter of an hour for +anyone. I remember quite well when I was first married, and my husband +was a Cabinet Minister, being late for dinner at Comte Paul de Segur's. +When we arrived they were at table. Among the guests was the Duc +d'Audifret-Pasquier, President of the Senate--he had arrived in time and +they wouldn't keep him waiting more than the "quart d'heure de grace." I +was very much surprised, as after all my husband was a personage, but I +must say I think the rule is a good one. I was next to the Duke and +found him very pleasant. He is a brother of the Grand Duchess Wladimir, +and he talked about the Coronation, and some of the curious, half +barbaric ceremonies. He had been lunching at Sheen with the Comte de +Paris, and was much impressed with the dull, sad look of the place. It +does look gloomy, enclosed in high walls, such a contrast to Eu and the +beautiful, bright sunny homes where the Orleans Princes spent their +childish years. + + #Albert Gate#, May 30th. + +To-night we have a quiet evening, and are glad to have a chance to talk +over Boulanger (who is coming here) and various troublesome questions. +We dined last night with the Duchess of Westminster to meet Princess +Mary and the Duke of Teck. The dinner was handsome and pleasant, and +there was a small ball afterward. They danced in the picture gallery, a +beautiful, large room, where the dresses and jewels showed to great +advantage. We didn't stay very late as W. never dances, not even the +regulation "Quadrille d'Honneur" at Court. He and Karolyi are the only +diplomatists who never dance. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #London#, June 5, 1888. + +Yesterday was a beautiful summer day, the ideal Sunday of Bishop +Keble--"The bridal of the earth and sky." We walked through the "Church +Parade" coming back from Westminster. There were quantities of pretty +girls dotted about the Park, looking so fresh and cool in their white +dresses. I had various visits. Sunday is the _man's_ day in London, and +the afternoon is generally interesting. The Spanish Ambassador came in. +He had been lunching at Sheen with the Comte de Paris, and told me that +the Prince asked him if he had seen his Collegue de France lately, and +what _he_ thought of the state of things in France, and particularly +what he thought of Boulanger. I told him I didn't think the French +Ambassador shared the Comte de Paris' enthusiasm for that hero, but that +_he_ had better ask him. + +About 5.30 W. and I started for White Lodge, Richmond Park, to dine with +Princess Mary and the Duke of Teck. We found quite a party assembled in +the garden around a tea-table, the Princess making the tea herself, +Princess May and some of the young ones helping. The talk was pleasant +and easy, Princess Mary is a charming hostess and _likes_ to talk (which +is certainly not the case with all English women). She is very stout, +but has a beautiful head and fine presence. Tosti and Picolellis dined, +and played divinely after dinner. The evening was enchanting. We all sat +in the big drawing-room opening on the garden. There was not much light, +the moon shining through the trees, and the two artists playing as if +inspired anything anyone asked for, from a Spohr sonata to an Italian +canzonetta. I thought we should stay there all night--no one wanted to +go home. The drive home was lovely, the London streets are so quiet +Sunday night. + + June 6th. + +This morning was the great meet of the coaches, and our terrace of +course is in great request as it gives directly on the Park. It is +always a pretty sight as everyone turns out. Lord Fife had the Prince of +Wales with him, and the Princess was driving about with her three +daughters in a victoria. The news of the German Emperor is very bad. + + June 10th. + +This afternoon we had lovely music at Frank Schuster's. Both Wolff and +Hollman played divinely. They are great rivals, both Dutchmen, and both +great favourites (Hollman is 'cello). A trio with them and Mdme. +Kleeberg at the piano is absolutely perfect. + +Our dinner at the Monks' was pleasant. I had Sir Rivers Wilson next to +me, and he is a charming neighbour, has been everywhere, knows +everybody, and talks easily without any pose. There was a concert in the +evening--very good--Trebelli, Lloyd, Nordica, etc. I made acquaintance +with Nordica, who is an American, Miss Norton, from Boston I think. She +sings beautifully. I said to her (they were all talking hard between the +songs), "What a noise! Can you ever begin?" "Oh, certainly," she said, +"I shall make much more noise than they do," and she was quite right. +Her voice rang through the room. One of her songs was Delibes' "Filles +de Cadiz," which she sang splendidly. + + June 12th. + +This afternoon we have been sight-seeing. Jean came to breakfast, and we +started off with Jusserand and St. Genys to see the Panorama of Niagara, +which they say is extremely well done. I wanted the foreigners to have +an idea of our great Falls, for I think in their hearts they were rather +disposed to agree with a statement in one of the Swiss guide-books in +speaking of the falls of the Rhine at Schaffhausen, "generally supposed +to surpass the celebrated Falls of Niagara in America." However they +were agreeably disappointed and were much pleased and interested. The +Panorama is really very good. It is so many years since I have seen +Niagara that I had forgotten how magnificent the Horse Shoe Fall is, and +I almost expected to hear the roar of the cataract, and to see the +little Indian boy selling moccasins and maple sugar. I wonder if I would +like maple sugar now. One of my French friends, Mdme. Casimir Perier, to +whom I offered as a great treat some American home-made gingerbread, +could hardly swallow it, and assured me that I couldn't eat it either if +it had not been a "souvenir d'enfance." On leaving Niagara we went to +the Aquarium to see a dog show. There were some fine specimens, but I +didn't think any of the fox terriers as good as my Boniface. We also saw +a swimming match, young ladies disporting themselves in the water in +most wonderful costumes. Then to change our ideas we went into +Westminster Abbey, just getting there for the end of the afternoon +service. We heard the anthem, which was beautiful. It is such a good +choir--some of the boys' voices divine, and they look like such little +angels in their white surplices. A good many people were waiting to go +round the Abbey at the end of the service, and we had some difficulty in +getting away from the various guides who haunt the church and fall upon +strangers. We wandered about with Jusserand for our cicerone. He knows +everything about everything, and we had an interesting hour. Some of the +old tombs are so curious. We got back to the Embassy for tea, having +enjoyed ourselves immensely. I think in her heart Jean was rather +shocked at the Aquarium performance--didn't think it was exactly the +place for me--that was the reason I liked it, I suppose, I am so often +now in the place where I ought to be. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #London#, + June 12, 1888. + +It is beautiful again to-day. We had a nice canter in the Row. Everyone +was talking about the German Emperor, and speculating over the future. +There is a curious mistrust of the young Prince. No one seems to know +exactly what he will do, and what will be his attitude toward England. +This afternoon we have been out to Chiswick with the Florians, and +Francis, to launch a torpilleur built for the French Navy by +Thornycroft. We found Thornycroft and some of his friends waiting for us +at the entrance of the dockyard. They took us to a platform covered with +red cloth erected quite close to the boat--which was prettily dressed +with flags--the men said her shape was wonderful (for a torpilleur, +which never can be graceful). They gave me a bottle of champagne, and +told me what to do. I flung the bottle as hard as I could against the +stern of the boat, saying "Success to the 'Coureur.'" It broke into a +thousand pieces, the champagne spattering all over my dress. We then +adjourned to a summer-house overlooking the river for tea, and afterward +went over the boat. There are accommodations (such as they are) for two +officers and nine men, but it must be most uncomfortable, particularly +in rough weather. However, she was built for speed, Thornycroft told us, +and everything was suppressed that was not absolutely necessary. I hope +she will make a good record. + + June 13th. + +Yesterday I decided quite suddenly to go to Ascot. It was a beautiful +day, not too hot, and the Florians were quite ready to go with me. W. +hates races and a long day in the country. We got down all right, +hearing vague rumours on the way about the Emperor's death, but the +Royal box was open, prepared evidently for the Princes, and there were +quantities of people on the lawn. We were standing near the gate waiting +to see the procession appear, when suddenly Lord Coventry, Master of the +Buckhounds, rode in alone. Instantly everyone said there must be bad +news from the German Emperor (which was true). The Prince of Wales had a +telegram, just as he was getting into his carriage, from the Queen, to +say the news was very bad, and none of them must go to the races. Very +soon some of the gentlemen of the Prince's party arrived, among others +Karolyi, who said the Emperor was dying--dead probably at that moment. +The Prince's servants and lunch were sent back as soon as possible (of +course all their provisions and servants had been sent to Ascot, as they +have a big lunch party there every day), so we all lunched with Lord +Coventry. I went up after lunch to the top of the stand to see the race, +and had the satisfaction of seeing the French horse come in an _easy_ +last. + +We went to tea with Lady Diana Huddleston, who has a pretty cottage +close to the course, and sat under the trees some time. I had refused a +dinner in London, and was in no hurry to get back. We quite expected to +see the Emperor's death in the evening papers, but he seems to have +rallied again a little. Poor man, how terrible it is the way he fights +for his life--and he has known from the first, they say, that there was +no hope. I am so sorry for her--she is so clever, so ambitious, and +would have done so much for Germany. + + #Woburn Abbey#, + June 15, 1888. + +We arrived here yesterday for tea. It had rained hard in the morning. W. +and I were riding and were taking our usual quick canter at the far end +of the Park (Marble Arch) when the storm began. We got home as fast as +we could, but were dripping, both of us. The water poured off my hat +like a shower-bath when I took it off. We had just time to get dry and +dress before starting for the station where we found the Duke's[10] +regisseur waiting for us with a "wagon-salon." We had a short railway +journey through pretty English village country; then a drive of half an +hour brought us here. The Park is enormous, fine trees and beautifully +green--such a rest after London smoke. The house is very large, with a +great square court and corridors running all around it filled with +family and historical pictures. The Duchess and her daughters were +waiting for us in the morning room. We had tea and almost immediately +went upstairs, as it was late. I have a charming big room with such +views over the Park. There are always in these large houses lovely bits +of old furniture, pictures, old china, etc. The dinner was +handsome--quantities of gold and silver plate, and the table covered +with azaleas. The Duke talked a great deal. He speaks French and German +like a native (was brought up in Germany) and has the courteous, +dignified manner of the old-fashioned English gentleman--a little stiff +perhaps (they say people, even his children, are afraid of him), but I +find him most attractive, particularly in these days when people haven't +time apparently to be polite. The house party is small--Lord Tavistock, +son of the house, with his handsome wife, Lady Ampthill, widow of Lord +Ampthill (whom you will remember well as Odo Russell in Rome, and who +was for years British Ambassador in Berlin). We saw him there when we +stopped three or four days on our way to Moscow for the Coronation. They +loved him in Berlin, just as they did in Rome. Do you remember how much +put out all the women were there when his engagement was announced? Lady +Ampthill looks sad, and is of course most anxious about the Emperor +Frederick, and eager for news, she knew him and the Empress so well at +Berlin. There is also Boehm, the sculptor, and one or two young men. The +evening was short, everyone talking of course about the Emperor. The +Duke says his death will be an immense loss to the whole world. The +ladies came upstairs about 10.30--the men went to the smoking-room. This +morning it is showery--I didn't go down to breakfast, but about 12.30 I +found my way to the drawing-room, and the Duchess showed me the house +before lunch. It would take weeks to see all that is in it. The gallery +that runs round the court is filled with portraits of Russells of every +degree, also various Kings and Queens of England. There are splendid +pictures all over the house--one drawing-room absolutely panelled with +Canalettos. When we had been over the house we went into the garden to +dedicate a fountain which Boehm had made, and also to see a full length +statue of the Duchess which he had also just completed for the garden. I +am very glad to know Boehm. He is intelligent and sympathetic, original +too. He and W. had a long talk last night in the "fumoir," and it seems +he was much struck with W. and said afterward to the Duke "Der weiss +alles." + +[10] The Duke of Bedford. + +After lunch, just as we were starting to have tea at Ampthill, we +received two telegrams--one from the Embassy, and one from +Deichmann--telling of the Emperor's death at 11 this morning--so that +long struggle is over. We drove over to Ampthill, and walked about in +the garden with umbrellas and waterproofs, but of course the place +looked triste and dark as there are great trees close to the house. +There was a very good picture of Lord Ampthill in one of the +drawing-rooms, and souvenirs of their diplomatic life in every +direction; signed photographs of all sorts of distinguished +people--snuff-boxes, medals, etc. + + June 16th. + +It is still grey and damp, but no rain. The Duchess took us for a +beautiful _grass_ drive through miles of rhododendrons, quite +enchanting--I have never seen anything like it;--but again the want of +sunlight made a great difference. The contrast between the deep green of +the lawn and the extraordinary amount and variety of colour was most +striking. We left about 3--immediately after lunch. I had quite a talk +with the Duke while we were waiting for the carriage. He told me he had +been so pleased to have had W. at his house and to hear him talk. He +said--"I am not a Republican, but I must say that so long as the +Republic finds men like him to serve her, there can be nothing better +for France." + + #London#, June 24th. + +We all went to the funeral service for the Emperor Frederick this +morning, all of us smothered in crepe with long crepe veils. It was +precisely the same service over again as we had had for the old Emperor +a few months ago. The heat was something awful--so many people--and it +was very long. I dined in the evening at Hurlingham with Sir Roderick +Cameron, and that was nice; deliciously cool, lights all about the +place, and the Hungarian band playing. + + _To H. L. K._ + + #London#, + July 12, 1888. + +Last night I had a novel and most amusing experience. I went with Count +and Countess de Florian (they are always ready to do anything I want) to +dine at the Mansion House. W. could not go. As soon as we arrived they +roared out my name, or rather my official title--"Her Excellency the +French Ambassadress," and I walked alone (the Florians a little behind) +up the great hall lined with people to where the Lord Mayor was +standing, with his robes, chains, etc., a mace-bearer on one side, and a +sort of trumpeter on the other. He stood quite still until I got close +to him, then shook hands and asked my permission to remove his robes +(ermine). We then went in to dinner. The Lord Mayor and his wife sat +side by side, and I was on his right. The dinner was fairly good (a +regular banquet, 70 or 80 people), with music and speeches. I rather +like the ceremony of the "loving cup." The cup was a handsome heavy gold +tankard, with handles and a cover, and was brought first to the Lord +Mayor. He rose--I did the same, and he asked me to take off the cover, +which I did, and held it while he drank. Then he wiped the edge with his +napkin, and passed it to me. The man next to me got up and held the +cover while I drank. (The cup is very heavy and I had to take it with +both hands.) The same ceremony was repeated all around the enormous +table, and it was a pretty and curious sight to see a couple always +standing--the women in full dress and jewels standing out well between +the black coats of the men. It seems it is a very old custom, a remnant +of rough feudal times, when the man drinking was obliged to have a +friend standing next to him, to ward off a possible blow, his hands +being occupied. I don't know what we drank--I should think a sort of hot +spiced wine. Of course one just touches the edge of the cup. A wonderful +man, in old-fashioned garb and a stentorian voice, stood always behind +the Lord Mayor's chair, and called out all the names, toasts, etc. We +went in afterward to Mrs. Oppenheim, who had a musical party--all the +pretty women, and Mme. Nordica singing beautifully, with the orchestra +of the Opera. + + #London#, + July 14, 1888. + +I am rather tired to-night, but I think you must hear about the comedie +while it is still fresh in my mind. It really went very well. We +arranged a sort of rampe with flowers and ribbons (Thenard's suggestion) +at the end of the ball-room, and made up the background with screens, +curtains, etc. The little troupe had been well drilled by Thenard, who +took a great deal of trouble, not only with their diction, but with +their movements. At first they were always standing in a heap and +tumbling over each other, or insisting upon turning their backs to the +audience. "Ce n'est pas bien joli, ce que vous montrez au public, mes +enfants," says Thenard. Here is the programme:-- + + + A FRENCH COMEDY + + AMBASSADE DE FRANCE A LONDRES + + #Samedi#, 14 #Juillet#, 1888 + + L'EDUCATION A LA MODE + + PAR BERQUIN + + MADAME VERTEUIL #Mlle. Beatrice de Bunsen# + MADAME BEAUMONT #Mlle. de Langhe# + LEONORA, sa niece #Lady Mary Pepys# + DIDIER, son neveu } + M. DUPAS, Maitre de danse} #M. Francis Waddington# + TRUETTE, soubrette #Mlle. Cameron# + +I was very proud of my little troupe. Beatrice looked very well and +stately in powder, black satin, and lace. Mile. de Langhe and Daisy very +well got up, and the two children charming. Lady Mary Pepys was too +sweet, and they danced their minuet perfectly. There were roars of +laughter when Francis appeared as "Maitre de Danse" with a white wig and +his violin. The children were not at all shy, enjoyed themselves +immensely. B. was a little "emue" at first when she saw how many people +there were, but it didn't last and she was excellent, so perfectly +correct, and unfrivolous, and boring. Francis said his little poetry, +"Le bon Gite" of Deroulede, quite prettily. W. was rather surprised and +quite pleased, and Thenard beamed, as she had coached him. She recites +some of those "Chants du Soldat" of Deroulede's divinely. It is a +perfect treat to hear her recite in her beautiful rich voice "Le Petit +Clairon," also "La Fiancee du Timbalier," with an accompaniment of soft +music. + +All the children (as we had invited Francis's young friends to see the +performance) had tea together afterward, and they wound up with a dance. +The men of the Embassy were much pleased, particularly Jusserand, who is +rather "difficile." They complimented B. very much; said she spoke so +distinctly and with very little accent. It was rather trying for her to +play before all the Embassy and an ex-member of the Comedie Francaise. +Francis's blue velvet coat and lace ruffles were very becoming to him. +Wolff told him how to hold his violin, I wish you could have seen it. It +was much prettier than the original little play at Bourneville, when we +executed as well as we could a menuet. + +We had a very select public, among others Wyndham of the Criterion, who +is an interesting man and a charming actor. When you come over I will +take you to see his David Garrick, which I consider a perfect bit of +acting. I wrote and asked him to "assister aux debuts d'un jeune +collaborateur." The funny formal old-fashioned Berquin phrases amused +him. He knows French well. + +#London#, August. + +We have decided to go to Scotland with Sir Roderick Cameron and his +family, and are starting in a day or two. London is dull and empty, has +suddenly become a deserted city. Even the shops are empty, and the Park +a wilderness. All our colleagues have gone. I think W. is the only +Ambassador in London, and he wants to get off to France and have a few +days on the Aisne before he goes to the Conseil General. We means +Francis and me for Scotland. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Inveraylort#, + August 17, 1888. + +I will try and give you an account of our journey, Dear. We arrived in +this most lovely place for late dinner yesterday, and went almost at +once to bed, having begun our day at 7 o'clock. We left London Tuesday +morning by the Flying Scotchman, and a tremendous pace we came. There +were quantities of people at the station, all going apparently by our +train--children, dogs, guns, fishing rods, provision baskets, tall +footmen racing after distracted French maids, and piles of luggage. We +had our saloon carriage reserved (as we were a fair party--C., the four +girls, Duncan, a friend Miss W., Francis and I and two or three maids). +We had also a fair amount of baskets, shawls, cushions, etc. It was a +lovely morning, not too warm, and I think W., who came down to the +station to see us off, was half sorry he was not going too. + +We stopped for luncheon at York, and got to Edinburgh at 6.30. The pace +was frightful, but we went so smoothly that one hardly realised the +speed. We went straight to the hotel to see our rooms and order dinner, +and then went out for a walk. The streets were crowded; omnibuses and +cabs with luggage in every direction. The old town and castle looked +most picturesque in the soft summer light. Daisy and I went out again +after dinner, and after loitering a little near the hotel we saw a +tramcar, asked where it went, and mounted on the top, telling the man we +would go as far as we could, and then come back. It was a beautiful +moonlight night, and we were very cool and comfortable perched on the +top of the car. When the man came to get the money for the places I +discovered that I had no change--merely a sovereign. The old gentleman, +a tall, white-bearded Scotchman, grumbled a good deal, and made various +uncomplimentary remarks to himself in a low tone. However after some +little time he appeared with a handful of silver. I took the money +mechanically and began to stuff it into my portemonnaie, as he looked at +me severely and said--"First count your money to see that it is right, +and then give me what you owe for your places." + +We were up early the next morning--breakfasted at 9 o'clock as we wanted +to see a little of Edinburgh before starting for Oban at 12 o'clock. It +was an enchanting morning, not too warm, and we went first to the +Castle. There is not much to see inside--always a beautiful view of sea +and hills. There is a chapel and some old rooms which various Kings and +Queens of Scotland have inhabited at various times. A company of +Highlanders in Cameron plaids were being exercised in the courtyard, and +a fine stalwart set of men they were. + +From there we drove through some of the old streets (Cannongate, etc.) +to Holyrood, which was most interesting. The children of course were +most anxious to see the spot where Rizzio was murdered, and the +blood-stains on the floor, but they have disappeared years ago. We were +delighted with the pictures. There are quantities of course of Mary, +Queen of Scots--one large portrait with that beautiful, sad Stuart +face--as if they all foresaw their destinies. I had forgotten how small +and low the rooms are. In these luxurious days no ordinary lady would be +satisfied with Queen Mary's bedroom and boudoir; and the servants, +accustomed to be quite as comfortable as their masters, would give +warning at once. We drove straight from the Palace to the station, where +our carriage was waiting for us. All our wraps, cushions, etc., neatly +arranged; and started for Oban, a most lovely journey, particularly all +about Loch Awe. We got to Oban about 7, and I shall often think of that +lovely evening. The harbour filled with yachts and sail-boats of all +kinds--the water blue and dancing, and the most divine soft pink lights +on the hills, a little like what we used to love at Capri and +Ischia--quite beautiful. Daisy and I did some shopping before +dinner--bought clean collars for the children, who were decidedly the +worse for the two days' journey, and we also interviewed the well-known +Ewan at the tartan shop with a view to kilted skirts. D. found their +tartan at once of course as there are so many Camerons--ours was rather +more difficult as there are few _Chisholms_ left (my Mother-in-law was +born Chisholm) and the authorities in London told us we could certainly +wear the family plaid. The shop people promised to get it for me. The +man was much interested in the skirt for Miss W. Being an American there +was no family tartan to be looked up, and she couldn't quite make up her +mind. However he came to the rescue, telling her that "all the +_American_ ladies take the Royal Stuart, Miss." We had an excellent +dinner at the very small hotel where we were obliged to go--all the +swell hotels were full--and there are quantities of people in the +streets, and boats coming and going from the yachts. The Englishwomen +all look so nice in their yachting dresses, almost all of dark blue +serge and a sailor hat or regular yachting cap. The cap is rather +trying, but the young and pretty women look charming in it. Some of the +trippers and their ladies are wonderful to behold. We stood near a +couple who were just starting for Skye on one of the steamers. The man +was in a wonderful checked suit, and the lady in a brilliant red and +green tartan (not unlike the Chisholm), on her head was a Scotch +stalking cap, which was not becoming to a red, round face. However _she_ +was satisfied and so was her companion, who looked at her most +admiringly, saying--"I say, you are fetching in that cap." "Il y en a +pour tous les gouts." When we got back to the hotel we found that Sir R. +had quite changed our "itineraire." He had seen the boat, a fine large +one which made the outside passage to Arishaig, so instead of taking the +Caledonian Canal and landing at Fort William where carriages and carts +were ordered for us, he decided that we should go by sea, and take our +chance of finding some means of transport. He did, however, send a +telegram to Arishaig, as the hotel man told him he would never find any +conveyance for such a large party. + +We started at 9 o'clock, and the sail was enchanting. About 12 we ran +rather close to a small headland, and the Captain told us we had +arrived. Apparently we were in broad Atlantic with a rocky shore in the +distance--however a boat appeared, one of those broad, flat boats which +one sees all over in Scotland. Our disembarkation was difficult as we +were 11 people with quantities of trunks and parcels. Happily the sea +was quite smooth. All the passengers were wildly interested in the +operation and crowded to the side of the steamer. When all the party had +finally got off with trunks, bags, a bird in a cage, and a kitten in a +basket, one of the passengers remarked--"They only need a pony in that +boat, to make the party complete." + +To say we found a landing-place would be absolute fiction. As we neared +the shore we saw a quantity of black, slippery rocks, and on these we +landed, the boatmen holding the boat as near as they could, and we +climbing, and slipping, and struggling to get on shore. Our baggage was +dumped on the rocks and there we were--not a habitation or a creature in +sight. At last we found a sort of house behind a mass of rocks, and saw +several carriages in the distance which we supposed were for us. Not at +all! Sir R.'s telegram had not been received and those were carriages +waiting for a "Corps" which was being conveyed across on a yacht. We +tried to persuade them to take some of us at any rate, and at last with +great difficulty one carriage was given to us. The negotiations were +extremely difficult, as nobody spoke anything but Gaelic, except an old +woman, and she was so cross and apparently so suspicious of the whole +party that we got on better by signs and a few extra shillings. Sir R. +and the maids walked (4 miles through lovely country) and we all finally +arrived at the little fishing village of Arishaig, where there is a good +inn. It is a little place, three or four fishermen's cottages, a +post-office, and two churches, a large Roman Catholic Cathedral and a +small Established Church. We had a good lunch and started at 3.30, +getting here at 5.30. Such a beautiful drive--all blue sky, and heather +almost as blue--and great grey mountains. We walked up two very steep +hills, but had such glorious views at the top that we didn't mind the +climb. + +This place is charming--the house fairly large. It stands low on the +lake or arm of the sea, and has pine woods and high mountains behind. It +is absolutely lonely--no houses near, except one or two (agent's and +farmer's) that belong to the estate. The country is lovely, wild and +picturesque, but it would be a terrible place to be in except with a +large party. There is nothing nearer than 10 miles, and no real village +or settlement for 25. We are about half way between Fort William and +Arishaig (each 20 or 25 miles away). I think all our provisions come +from Fort William. A stage passes twice a day, morning and evening. Our +baggage arrived at 10.30, and we were all glad to go to bed, as we had +begun our day early. It is so still to-night--I am writing in my +room--the lake looks beautiful in the moonlight, and there is not a +sound. + + #Inveraylort#, + Sunday, August 19th. + +We have settled down most comfortably in the house, which is fairly +large, but we are never indoors except to eat and sleep. We had a lovely +drive yesterday all through this property, and to a neighbour's where +there is a pillar to show where Prince Charlie landed. There are many +Roman Catholics in these parts, which accounts for the large church in +the little fishing village of Arishaig. + +This morning we had a service in the "Wash-house"--a red-headed Scotch +peasant was the "Minister." It was a curious sort of independent +service, impromptu prayers, and a long sermon. The congregation +consisted of ourselves and the household. Miss Cameron, the owner of +this place, who is staying at her agent's cottage on the place, some +friends of hers, and the people of the little inn where the daily coach +from Fort William stops for rest and luncheon. There are no other +habitations of any kind except a few crofters' cottages across the lake. +After luncheon we went for a long walk along the stream where there are +plenty of fish, and came home over the hills. They are blue and deep +purple, with heather, and there are divine views in every direction. + + Thursday, August 22d. + +It is again a beautiful day. We intended to row down to see some friends +of Sir R.'s about 5 or 6 miles off at the mouth of the lake, where it +runs into the sea, but there is some trouble about the boats. Our +"proprietaire," Miss C., seems to have singular ideas as to the +respective rights of owners and tenants. It was so fine and cool that we +decided to walk, and the B.'s promised to send us back in their boat. It +was long, but the path was not too steep all along the lake, and we +arrived not too exhausted. They gave us tea, showed us the house and +garden, and we started back about 9. The row home was enchanting, but +weird--not a thing to be seen of any kind, except seals, which came up +close to the boat. I had never seen one near, and thought at first they +were dogs and was so surprised to see so many swimming about; not a +sound except the splash of our oars in the water when we turned our +backs to the sea, the heather-covered mountains shutting us in on all +sides. It was quite wild and beautiful, but a solitude that would be +appalling if one lived altogether in the country. + + #Inveraylort#, August 27th. + +After all they are not going to stay the month, Sir R. and his +proprietor can't come to terms, and I think they will probably take a +yacht and cruise about a little. The lake is decidedly rough this +morning, but still we thought we must row across to some crofters' +cottages. They told us they were of the poorest description, and we +wanted to see what their life and houses were. Most wretched little +houses (our horses much better off in their stables), generally one +room, sometimes two; no floor, merely the earth trodden hard, and +covered with straw. To-day it had been raining; there were puddles in +the corners and the straw was decidedly damp. A peat fire was burning, +and the only opening (no window) was a hole in the thatched roof, which +lets the smoke out and the rain in. An old woman was spinning and an old +man was sitting in the corner mending a fishing net. They were tall, +gaunt figures--might be any age. They spoke nothing but Gaelic, but soon +a young woman appeared on the scene who knew English. She looked as old +as her mother, but had a keen, sharp face. I was rather interested in +the spinning-wheel, so the two women suggested that I should try; but I +could do nothing. Either I went too fast and broke the yarn, or else the +wheel remained absolutely motionless. I bought some yarn, as I had +broken various bits, and then we started home, carrying away an +impression of wretched poverty and hard lives of toil, with little to +lighten the burden. + + #Oban#, August 29th. + +We are back here after a most eventful journey from Inveraylort. We +started in the rain, the mist closing round us and blotting out the +whole landscape. We had two carriages, but the pony cart came to grief, +and the two girls and Francis were thrown out. Miss W. had an ugly cut +on her face, but poor N. was lying on the ground, pale and suffering, +convinced that her arm was broken. When we got up to them we took her +into the waggonette and got on as quickly as we could to Caupar, our +destination, where we had been told of a wonderful bone-setter who was +well known in all these parts. He saw at once what was wrong--her +shoulder was dislocated, and said she must not continue the journey, so +we left her there with her sister and brother, and we came on here. They +all appeared this afternoon--N. with her arm in a sling and looking +fairly well. She said the man set it so quickly and gently she hardly +had time to feel any pain. + + #Oban#, + September 3d. + +We had a beautiful day yesterday for our excursion to Staffa and Iona. +The sea was perfectly calm, and the lights and shades on the mountains +enchanting. It was a lovely sail; sometimes we ran into little shaded +harbours with two or three cottages and a hotel perched high up on the +top of a mountain, and sometimes passed so close to land under the great +cliffs that one could throw a stone on the shore. The islands are most +interesting, with their old churches and their curious stone crosses, +and there were not too many people on the boat. The return was delicious +as we sat on deck, watching all the colours fade away from sea and +hills. + +We leave to-morrow for London and Paris, and I am very sorry to go. We +have enjoyed our three weeks immensely. The country is so beautiful, and +then it was a great pleasure to be with some of my own people; we have +been away so long that the family ties get weaker. Francis was quite +happy with some cousins to run about with. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #Albert Gate#, + May 21, 1889. + +I got back from Paris last night, rather sorry to come. The weather was +enchanting, warm and bright, and, of course, quantities of people for +the Exhibition. It isn't half ready yet, but is most interesting--so +much to see. I dined and breakfasted there several times at the various +restaurants--one evening with the Walter Burns and a party, and we went +afterward to see the "fontaines lumineuses," which are really +fairy-like; but such a crowd. I also heard the two American prima +donnas--Miss Eames, who is very handsome, has a fresh, young voice, and +is an ideal Juliette. She is a vision really in her bridal dress as +Juliette. Miss Sanderson is also very handsome, but in quite a different +style. Her voice is very high and true; she was singing "Esclarmonde" at +the Opera Comique. Massenet has taught her everything. I have found +quantities of invitations here, in fact was obliged to come over, as we +have a big dinner the day after to-morrow, and the Court ball. + + Tuesday, May 28, 1889. + +We had our first encounter with Boulanger this morning. W. and I were +walking our horses down the Row when we met three gentlemen cantering +toward us. As they passed we heard they were speaking French, but didn't +pay any particular attention. I merely said, "I wonder who those men +are," one so rarely hears French spoken in the Row. A few minutes later +we met Lord Charles Beresford, who took a little turn with us, and said +to W., "The other distinguished Frenchman is also in the Row,"--then we +divined. A few moments afterward (the Row is so small one crosses people +all the time) we met them again, Boulanger in the middle riding his +famous black horse--a man on each side riding good horses, chestnuts. +They all wore top-hats, which no Englishmen do now in the morning. The +men all wear low hats, the women also, and covert coats, the girls +cotton blouses; not at all the correct style we used to admire as +children in _Punch_ when those beautiful women of Leech's riding in the +Park filled our childish hearts with envy. I was rather curious as to +what would happen, as W. knows Boulanger slightly, and went to him when +he was Minister of War about something concerning the military attache; +however, there was no difficulty, as Boulanger was apparently too +engrossed in conversation with his companions to notice anyone. I wonder +if we shall meet him anywhere? They tell us that some of the society +people mean to invite him, but I suppose they will scarcely ask us +together. + + Thursday, May 30th. + +Yesterday was the last Drawing-room of this season. I rather feel as if +it were my last in London, but one never knows. We (Corps Diplomatique) +were still all in black, the English in colours. It was long and tiring. +We dined at Lord Sudeley's--I rather wishing I had no engagement. I am +always tired after those hours of standing, and the diadem is heavy, and +the train, too, held over one's arm; however, I was quite repaid, as I +had a charming neighbour. I didn't know at all who he was, as they +rarely introduce in England, so we embarked on one of those banal, inane +conversations one has with a stranger of whom one knows nothing, and +were talking on smoothly about nothing at all, when he remarked, +casually, "I suppose you never go to church." This I at once resented +vehemently, so he explained that he didn't know, as I was a Frenchwoman, +probably a Catholic (as if they didn't go to church), etc. He turned out +to be Canon Rogers, a charming, intelligent, well-known man, most +independent in his words and actions. He is rector of St. Botolph's, a +church in Bishopsgate, the most disreputable part of London. We became +great friends, and he asked me if I would go and lunch with him one +Sunday, and he would show me Petticoat Lane. I agreed of course, and we +decided for next Sunday. He said he had never had a French lady and an +Ambassadress as a guest, and didn't quite know what to do. Should he ask +the Prince of Wales and order champagne? I told him my tastes were very +simple, and if I might bring my cousin Hilda, and one of the +Secretaries, I should be quite happy--also I liked apple-pie, which he +says his cook makes very well. I haven't had such a pleasant dinner for +a long time. + + Monday, June 3d. + +We made our expedition to Bishopsgate yesterday, and most interesting it +was. I went with Hilda and M. Lecomte, one of the secretaries, who knows +English, and is very keen to see anything a little out of the way. We +had a long drive to the church through the city, and arrived only to +hear the end of Canon Rogers' sermon, which was strong and practical. As +soon as the service was over we went down to the door and found him and +his curate waiting for us. The first thing he did was to send away my +carriage, which had already attracted much attention with the tall +footman, velvet breeches, cockades, etc. He said he would never venture +into Petticoat Lane in such an equipage, and would we please share his +modest conveyance; so Hilda and I got into his victoria, and Lecomte and +the curate walked close to the carriage behind. We had two policemen in +front, two behind, and a detective. I rather demurred to such a display +of municipal strength on my account, but he said it was necessary, he +much preferred having them, he was afraid people would crowd around us +and insist upon my buying something. The street was narrow, crowded with +people, as there was also a fair going on and everything imaginable +being sold (it is the one place in London where you can buy _one_ shoe +or _one_ stocking!). The people were almost all Jews, and I must say +they were a bad-looking lot, frightfully rough specimens. Some of the +women, girls too, with such sullen, scowling faces. We went at a foot's +pace (the only carriage), and hadn't the slightest difficulty in making +our way. Everyone knew Mr. Rogers and spoke to him--"Good morning, +Governor," "God bless you, Sir." Two or three children ran up to him, +one a pretty little dark-eyed girl breathless to tell him she was in +church, though she came late. He was so nice to them all, called them +all by name, patted the children on the head, and exhorted some of the +women to keep their husbands out of the drinking shops, and to wash +their children's faces. They say he does an immense amount of good down +there, but it must be uphill work. I have rarely seen such a forbidding +looking set of people. Some of the women came up rather close to the low +victoria and made comments on our garments. (We had dressed very simply +at his request. I wore my blue foulard and a blue straw bonnet with iris +on it. Hilda was in light grey with a black hat.) "You have got a +beautiful bonnet, my lady. Oh, look at her umbrell!" The "umbrell" +excited much attention. I couldn't think why at first, as it was also +rather dark and plain; when I remembered that it had a watch in the +handle upon which, of course, all eyes were fixed. I think the detective +kept his eye upon it too, as he came up rather close on my side. The +detective took Lecomte to a famous jeweller's shop near in Whitechapel, +where there had been a murder some days ago. We drove all through the +fair surrounded by these villainous faces (here and there a pretty, +fair, innocent, childish face) and I wasn't sorry to get back to +civilisation and the rectory, though I am very glad to have seen it. The +rectory is a large old-fashioned house in Devonshire Square, shut in +with high houses and high trees, and never, I should think, could a ray +of sunshine get anywhere near it. One felt miles away from London and +life of any kind. It was a curious contrast to the turbulent, noisy, +seething crowd we had just left. We had a charming breakfast, Mr. Rogers +talking all the time delightfully, so original and so earnest, convinced +that everyone in their small circle could do so much to help, not only +the poor but the really bad, if only by example and a little sympathy; +he says no one ever helps the bad ones, only the deserving poor get +looked after. + +About 3.30 we started again to see the People's Palace, which he takes +great interest in, and hopes he may succeed in keeping the men away from +the drinking shops in the evening. It looked comfortable and practical, +the reading-room particularly, which is large and airy, with all sorts +of morning and evening papers (some foreign ones), illustrated papers, +and good, standard books. The librarian told me that Walter Scott was +always asked for, also some American books, particularly Indian stories, +and travels of all kinds. I was rather interested in hearing that, as +whenever W. gives books to a school library, or prizes in France, Walter +Scott or Fenimore Cooper are still the favourites (translated, of +course. I read the "Last of the Mohicans" in French, and it was very +well done). There were not many people, but Mr. Rogers says on a fine, +warm Sunday they all prefer to be in the open air. There is also a large +swimming bath, given by Lord Rosebery. We parted from our host at the +door, having had a delightful afternoon. It is a long time since I have +heard anyone talk who interested me so much. + +The drive home along the Embankment was nice--quantities of people out, +quite like a Sunday in France. We dined quietly at home. W. was much +interested in my day. I think if he had known exactly where I was going, +and that an escort of police was necessary, he wouldn't have agreed to +the expedition. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + Thursday, June 4, 1889. + +The Court Ball was brilliant last night. The Prince opened the ball with +Princess Louise, and the Princess with Lord Fife. The engagement of +Princess Louise of Wales to Lord Fife is just announced, and has of +course created quite a sensation. Of course there are two currents of +opinion--the old-fashioned people are rather shocked at the idea of a +Royal Princess marrying a subject; but I fancy the entourage of the +Prince and Princess of Wales are pleased,--and Fife is a general +favourite. It is not very easy for the English princesses to marry. They +_must_ marry Protestants, and there are not many Protestant princes who +are not near relations. + +I talked a little to the Shah, but I didn't find that very amusing. He +knows very little English or French, and has a most disagreeable way of +looking hard at one. He planted himself directly in front of me, very +close, and said "he thought he had seen me before," which of course he +had, in Paris. + +It seems that one of the Princesses pointed out to him, in the +supper-room, a lady neither very young nor very beautiful, who was +covered with splendid jewels, thinking they might interest him. He +stopped short in front of her--then turned his back at once, saying +"monstre." They say he finds no woman handsome who has passed twenty. + + Tuesday, July 2d. + +It was a splendid summer day yesterday, ideal, for the Shah's arrival by +water. We drove down to the Speaker's to see him come. The streets were +lined with troops, and there were quantities of people about. They let +us drive through the Mall and to Westminster between the lines of +soldiers (all the traffic was stopped). Almost all the houses and +balconies on the way were draped with red, and crowded with women in +their light, gay summer dresses. There were a good many people at the +Speaker's, who gave us some tea and strawberries. The Royal Barge +arrived very punctually. It was not very beautiful--an ordinary river +steamer, painted light grey, with gold lines, and fitted up with palms, +red cushions, and carpets, etc. The Thames was a pretty sight, such +quantities of boats of all kinds. We saw everything quite well. There +was a fair procession of state carriages, and an escort of Life Guards; +but what a barbarian the Shah looks, with his embroidered coat and his +big jewels, and his coarse, bad face--however he was smiling, and seemed +pleased with his reception. + +We waited to let the crowd disperse a little, and then came home the +same way through Constitution Hill. We met the Prince and Princess +coming back from Buckingham Palace. Both looked very well--he in +uniform, and she in white, extraordinarily young in face and figure. The +two princes, Eddy and George, were with them, and they were much +applauded as they passed. In the evening we had a musical party at +Blumenthal's. The garden was lighted and everyone sitting outside. The +party was in honour of Princess Louise, and the music very good, as it +always is there. Mdme. Grondal, a Swedish woman, played beautifully, and +Plunkett Greene sang very well. He always brings down the house with +"I'm Off to Philadelphy in the Morning." Lord Lorne took me to supper. I +always like to talk to him. He was not much impressed with his Persian +Majesty either--thought the days of Eastern potentates were over. I +asked him what he had come for, and why the English were so civil to +him; to which he replied, "Oh, I suppose some of the swells want +concessions, or railways." + + Monday, July 8, 1889. + +We went to Hatfield this morning, where there was a luncheon party for +the Shah. It was decidedly grey and uncertain, in fact, raining a little +when we started, and I looked once or twice at my creme linon trimmed +with Valenciennes--but as I had ordered it especially for that occasion, +I decided to wear it. I put on a long cloak for the train. The Hatfield +parties are always very well arranged--trains starting every ten +minutes. It is hardly three-quarters of an hour from London. There were +lots of people, and the short trajet passed quickly enough. All the +women were looking at each other to see the dresses, as the weather was +really bad. At Hatfield, one of Lord Salisbury's sons was at the station +to receive the swells. I got separated in the crowd from W., so Lord +Edward put me into a brougham, and asked me if I would take another +Ambassador, as mine was missing for the moment. I agreed, of course, so +Comte Hatzfeldt came with me. There was a large party staying in the +house, including the Prince and Princess, the Shah, and various members +of the family and Court. Lady Salisbury was standing at one of the big +doors opening on the terrace. Lord Salisbury, she told me, was taking +the Shah for a drive in the park. We all loitered about a little on the +terrace. The rain had stopped and, though there was no sun, the house +looked beautiful with its grey walls and splendid lines. The first +person I saw was the Duc d'Aumale, and we had quite a talk while waiting +for luncheon. The Prince also came out and talked. Luncheon was served +at small, round tables in the great dining-room. As Doyens we were at +the Royal table. The Prince took me, and I had next to me the Grand +Vizier, who had taken in Lady Londonderry. She is very handsome, very +well dressed, and the Grand Vizier enjoyed himself very much. It seems +he is a very difficult gentleman, and at some man's house party, +Ferdinand Rothschild's, I think, he was not pleased with his reception, +or his place at the table, and declined to come downstairs. There were +about 70 people at luncheon, and as many more, they told me, upstairs. +Quantities of flowers, silver, servants, etc., and a band playing. After +breakfast we all adjourned to the terrace and some photographic groups +were taken. There was some wonderful shooting by some Americans which +interested the Persians very much, and one of the Shah's suite was most +anxious to try his hand at it, and forcibly took a rifle from the +American, who protested vigorously, but the Persian kept hold of his gun +and evidently meant to shoot, so the American appealed directly to the +Prince, saying there would be an accident if he was allowed to go on; +and the Prince interfered and persuaded the irate Oriental to give up +his weapon. + +They had asked a great many people to tea, but evidently the rain had +kept many away. The toilettes were most varied--every description of +costume, from the Duchess of Rutland in white satin and diamonds (large +stones sewed all over the body of her dress) to the simplest description +of blue serge, covert coat, and even a waterproof carried over one's +arm. I was thinking of going to get a cup of tea, when I crossed again +the Duc d'Aumale, who was also looking for the tea-table, so we went off +together and had a pleasant "quart d'heure." He is always so nice to W. +and me, and is so distinguished-looking wherever he is--such +extraordinary charm of manner and so soldierly. He had been much amused +by the stories he had heard of the eccentricities of the Persian suite. +One of the ladies staying in the house found two gentlemen sitting on +her bed when she went up to dress for dinner. I must say I think it was +awfully good of Lady Salisbury to ask them all to stay. + +[Illustration: Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the Shah of +Persia, July, 8, 1889 From a photograph by Russell & Sons London + +The following are among those in the picture Prince of Wales Lord +Salisbury Shah of Persia Princess of Wales Rustem Turkish Ambassador +Hatzfeldt German Ambassador Lord Halsbury the Lord Chancellor M de +Staal Russian Ambassador Duc d'Aumale Countess of Cadogan M +Waddington French Ambassador Madame Waddington Countess of Galloway +Duchess of Devonshire] + + + Saturday, July 27th. + +Princess Louise of Wales and Fife were married this morning in the small +chapel at Buckingham Palace. Very few people were asked, no diplomats +except Falbe, Danish Minister, who is a great favourite at Court, and +asked always. The streets, especially Piccadilly, were crowded with +people. We had to go round by Belgrave Square and Buckingham Palace to +get to Marlborough House. We were invited at 2 o'clock to see the bride +and the presents. The wedding party drove up just as we arrived. Fife's +coach, dark green with green and gold liveries, was very handsome. The +Princess of Wales looked radiant, and the bride charming--beautifully +dressed and just pale enough to be interesting. The King of Greece and +Crown Prince of Denmark were both there. The presents were +beautiful--every imaginable thing in diamonds and silver. The Prince and +Princess's tiara very handsome--also Fife's. There was a buffet and tea +in the garden, also in the drawing-rooms; and we waited to see the young +couple start. They looked very happy and smiling. Their carriage was +very handsome, with four black horses and an outrider. Everyone cheered +and threw rice after them. They started with a Royal escort, but at the +top of the park Fife sent it back, and they made their entry into Sheen +in his carriage only. They said he made a condition that there should be +no lady-in-waiting, that his wife should be Duchess of Fife only; but of +course she can never lose her rank. None but Ambassadors were asked to +the reception at Marlborough House--no other diplomats. + + July 30th. + +We had our last dinner this season--musical and all Italians, Tosti, +Vinci, and Picolellis. Mme. de Florian came in late with her dinner +guests, among others the Duchesse de Richelieu, who is very fond of +music. Tosti is delightful once he gets to the piano, sings (with no +voice) and plays whatever one wants--his own music, anybody's, and +always so simply. It was very warm. We all sat and stood on the balcony +when we were not playing and singing. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #Hatfield#, January 8, 1891. + +We came down last night for dinner. It was very cold, snow and ice in +London, and skating everywhere. We are not a very large party--the +family, some of Lord Salisbury's secretaries, Casa Laiglesia (just made +Ambassador--very happy. Spain had only a _Minister_ here till now), the +Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, etc. After dinner the older members of +the party played whist, and the young ones danced in the great hall. +This time we have King James I.'s rooms, an enormous bed (with a Royal +crown on the top) where he really slept. We have been out all day; the +gentlemen went off early to shoot, and I got down about 12. I found some +of the young women, Ladies Cranborne and Northcote, in the hall and we +decided we would go and skate. It was bitterly cold, but no wind, and +the pond is not far, just at the end of the terrace. There was a little +wooden house on the edge where we put on our skates, and plenty of +chairs and canes. Ladies Northcote and Gwendoline Cecil skate very well. +Lady Salisbury came down to the pond, took a broom from one of the +numerous sweepers, and swept hard to keep herself warm. After lunch I +went for a sleigh ride with Lady Salisbury in a pretty little one-horse +sleigh she had bought at the Exhibition. It was very good going in the +park, but we bumped occasionally going across the fields. To-night we +broke up rather early; we were all tired with the first day's skating, +and the men with their shooting. + +[Illustration: Lord Salisbury +From a photograph by Weston & Son Dover] + + Friday. + +It has been again a beautiful winter's day, and we have skated all the +afternoon until dark. Lady Salisbury came again with her broom and swept +vigorously. It seems many doctors recommend sweeping now for women who +need exercise and cannot ride or walk. We tried hard to make Casa +Laiglesia come down to the pond, but he refused absolutely--that was not +at all his idea of pleasure. We spent some time in the library looking +over some of the old manuscripts of the time of Queen Elizabeth and King +Philip of Spain, and we saw him taking a short, very short turn on the +terrace in the sun, wrapped up so as to be almost "meconnaissable." + + #London#, January 18th. + +It is still very cold--the Serpentine is quite frozen, and quantities of +people skating. The ice is very bad, rather like a ploughed field, but +it is amusing to see all the people. We have been this afternoon to +Wimbledon, and there it was delightful. There was quite a large part +reserved and beautifully smooth, belonging to a club; so Comte de St. +Genys (one of the secretaries), who was with us, sent in his card, +saying he was there with the French Ambassadress; and they were most +civil, brought us chairs, and begged us to come back whenever we liked. +We saw some beautiful fancy skating, both men and women. We skated +afterward a little on the big lake to see the people. It was a beautiful +day, and a very pretty sight, quite like a Dutch picture. + +I was interrupted by a visit from Mr. Bryce. He came really to ask about +you and to know if you would stay on at Alassio. He spoke so warmly and +admiringly of Schuyler that it was a pleasure to hear him. He said he +was certainly the cleverest, most cultivated American he had ever seen, +that he had never met anyone who knew so many things well. He couldn't +conceive how any Government that had such a man to place could have let +any party feeling prevent them from giving him a prominent place, in +their own interest. + + #Albert Gate#, + Thursday, February 19th. + +We have had a funny day. There was a sale of horses, hunters +principally, at Cricklewood, a place just outside of London, where they +have very good horses. We have been there several times with Deichmann, +who has always fine horses, and have bought two or three ourselves. I am +looking for a saddle horse, so W. and I drove out the other day, and I +tried two which I liked very much (there is a riding-school where one +can try). Then Newman, the head man, rode them over some hurdles to show +me how well they jumped. They promised to let us know when the sale +would be, and yesterday sent word we must come to-day. I drove out with +Hilda in her pony carriage. We drew up close to the ring and the +auctioneer's stand and saw everything well. Her horses were taken out +and we made ourselves as comfortable as we could with furs and +couvertures. It was bitterly cold, with a high wind that cut one in two. +W. and Deichmann wandered about in the crowd. The collection of people +was most amazing, horsey to a degree; horse dealers, trainers, jockeys, +racing men and women--a few gentlemen here and there, not many. There +was a champagne lunch going on at Newman's, but that we declined--so +they brought us tea and excellent bread and butter to the carriage. The +two horses I had tried were among the first and I hoped I should get one +of them, but they brought much more than the dealers supposed they +would. They looked extremely well when they were brought out first, +galloped over the grass, and then jumping their hurdles beautifully, +taking them easily in a long stride (of course they were beautifully +handled, every point made the most of). W. made various bids, but when +it got beyond a certain sum he wouldn't give any more, as it was a fancy +price and could have gone up indefinitely. I was rather disappointed, as +I had set my heart on the black horse. It was cold driving home in the +teeth of the wind. We dined with the Deichmanns, with some of our +colleagues, and everyone was discussing the Empress Frederick's visit to +Versailles. Until then everything had gone most swimmingly, but of +course all French people were "froisses" at that. I don't exactly +understand her going. She is so intelligent, and had apparently realised +quite well how difficult it would be for her ever to go to Paris. Years +ago in Rome, where we met her almost every night, she told us she was so +anxious to go to Paris, but she was afraid she could not manage it. She +wanted very much to meet Renan--admired his books so much, and his great +intelligence; and I think she would have been delighted with him. He was +a charming talker on every subject, and so easy. + + + _To G.K.S._ + + #Albert Gate#, + Tuesday, March 10, 1891. + +We had an awful storm yesterday, a regular blizzard, and a terrible +night in the Channel. One of the good boats, the Victoria, was out all +night, not daring to land at either Dover or Calais. One of our young +attaches was on board, bringing over despatches, and they say he looked +green when he finally did arrive. The trains were snowed up everywhere, +even between Folkestone and London, and the passengers nearly frozen and +starved. It seems incredible in such a short distance. The young men are +generally rather eager to bring over despatches, but I rather think this +one won't try it again, in winter at any rate. I am extraordinarily +lucky in my crossings, because probably I am a good sailor. I go +backward and forward in all seasons and always have good weather. The +Florians have had some wonderful crossings, nine hours between Calais +and Dover, both of them _tied_ in their chairs, and the chairs tied to +the mast. + + Thursday, March 12, 1891. + +Yesterday we were at Windsor to dine and sleep. The party was +small--Staal, the Russian Ambassador, Lord Hartington, Sir Frederick +Leighton, Lord and Lady Curzon, Countess Perponcher and Count +Seckendorff in attendance on the Empress Frederick, and of course the +regular members of the Queen's Household. Lady Antrim was in waiting. We +assembled as usual in the long corridor close to the door by which the +Royal party entered. We were all in black, as the Empress was there. The +Queen and the Empress came in together. The Queen shook hands with me +and the two Ambassadors--the Empress with me only, bowing to the others. +She is still in deep mourning--her dress black (woollen stuff of some +kind) covered with crepe, and a crepe veil arranged in a point, or sort +of Mary Stuart cap, on the top of her head, and falling behind to the +edge of her skirt. The corsage was a little open, and she had a splendid +necklace of pearls, also a miniature of the Emperor Frederick set in +diamonds fastened on the front of her bodice. The dress was very +becoming--she looked very stately and graceful as she walked through the +corridor. She gave her arm to the Queen, and they walked in first to the +dining-room, the Empress sitting next to the Queen on her right. W. +followed with Princess Beatrice, sitting on the Queen's left; Staal with +Princess Margaretta, and sat on the right of the Empress. Lord +Hartington took me. The Queen talked a great deal to W.--the Empress +joined in occasionally. They were both much interested in the +Protestants in France, and wanted to know if the feeling was as strong +as in the old days of Huguenots and Catholics. I think there is a very +strong feeling, and it is rare when a French Protestant marries a +Catholic--rarer still when they become Catholics. + +The dinner is always quickly served, and the conversation nil. Nobody +talks except those who are next the Princesses. The cercle was, as +usual, in the corridor between the two doors. The Queen stood a little, +but not all the time. She spoke to me about Johannes Wolff--admired his +playing so much. The Empress talked a long time to W., and spoke +immediately about her visit to Paris and Versailles, which was rather +awkward for him, as he regretted very much that she had gone. All the +first part of her stay went so well. She told W. she had had nothing but +respect, and even sympathy wherever she had been, and that she was much +astonished and distressed when she saw the papers and found what a storm +was raging in the press. The Queen said a few words to me about the +visit, and seemed to think it was a radical demonstration against the +Government. I answered vaguely that all radicals made mischief--it +wasn't a very easy subject to discuss. The cercle was not very +long--about three-quarters of an hour--and then the Court retired, the +two Sovereigns going out as they came in, together. We finished the +evening in the drawing-room, but broke up early. W. went off to smoke, +and I had a nice hour in the beautiful little yellow salon. I had a +splendid fire, quantities of candles (always my mania--I hate lamps, +particularly in these days of petroleum), and was quite happy. Adelaide +was very eloquent over the style of the housekeeper's room, and was +funny over Charles, our French footman, and his indignation at being +excluded from the society of the valets and ladies' maids. W.'s man was +ill, so he took the French footman, who has often done his service. That +gentleman being in livery was considered one of the lower servants (sat +some way below the salt) and when the swells (Adelaide, of course, +included) retired to the housekeeper's room for dessert and coffee he +remained with the under servants. All these domestic arrangements are +quite unheard of in France--any distinctions of that kind would set the +whole establishment in a storm. + +It was a cold night, snow lying thick on the ground, clouds dark and +low, and the great towers looked grim and formidable. W. came in about +12--said the talk in the fumoir was pleasant. He likes Count Seckendorff +very much, finds him intelligent and moderate and sensible in his +opinions--like all men who have knocked about a great deal and who know, +not only other countries but the _people_ of the country. After all, +churches, and palaces, and picture galleries have a certain +"resemblance," but people are different, and sometimes very interesting. +We came away this morning at 10.30. I did not see anyone except Lady +Antrim, as I never go to the dining-room for breakfast. I was ready a +little before the time, and wandered about the corridor a little, +looking at all the pictures. I met Staal doing the same thing. There is +so much to see. + +It is a beautiful bright day, and Hyde Park looked very animated as we +drove through. Everyone was waiting to see the Queen pass. She arrived +about an hour after us, as there is a Drawing-room to-morrow. We had +some music this afternoon--2 pianos, 8 hands--and we play rather well a +splendid symphony of Brahms'--not at all easy. We dined with Mr. Henry +Petre, one of the most soigne dinners in London. It is always pleasant +at his house--they say it is because he is a bachelor, which is not very +flattering to _us_, but I think it is true, I don't know why. As we were +out we _went on_, as they say here, to Lady Aberdeen, who had a small +dance, but did not stay very long, as it was rather a young company. +People always say there is nothing going on in London before the season, +but we dine out every night and often have (I at least) something in the +afternoon--a tea, or music. I don't believe anybody ever dines at home +in London. The theatres are always crowded, quite as much as in Paris. +Hilda and I went the other night with Count Seckendorff to see +"Charlie's Aunt," a ridiculous farce which is having a great success. He +protested at first at our choice--would have preferred something more +classic, but he was perfectly amused (though protesting all the time). +The piece is absolutely stupid, but so well played that the house was in +roars of laughter, and that is always infectious. The man who played the +part of the maiden aunt was extraordinarily well got up. His black silk +dress and mittens were lovely--he looked really a prim old spinster and +managed his skirts so well. + + Saturday, April 4, 1891. + +We lunched to-day with Ferdinand Rothschild to meet the Empress +Frederick. We were a small party, principally Diplomatists. The Deyms, +Hatzfeldt, Soveral, Harry Whites, etc. The Empress came (punctually) +with Countess Perponcher and Seckendorff. The lunch was very handsome, +quickly served and very animated, everybody talked. I had Hatzfeldt on +the other side (I sat between him and Rothschild) so I was quite +happy--there is nobody I like so much to talk to. He is very clever, +very entrain, speaks French beautifully and talks about anything--just +enough "moqueur" to keep one's wits sharpened. We had a discussion as to +what was the origin of "Mrs. Grundy." None of us knew. I must ask +Jusserand, who will I am sure be able to tell us. + +We were all dressed in black velvet, one would have thought it was a +"mot d'ordre." The Empress is very easy and likes to talk. She asked me +if I knew Deroulede, said she heard some of his poetry was charming. I +told her the "Chants du Soldat" were delightful, but _I_ couldn't send +them to her (they are all about the Franco-German War). One of the +ladies, Mrs. White I think, said she would. + + Tuesday, April 21, 1891. + +We had a pleasant little dinner Sunday night for Wormser, the composer +of "L'Enfant Prodigue," which has had an enormous success here. Wolff +came too, and they played all the evening. I haven't seen the piece yet, +so I was delighted to hear the music. I promised him I would go on +Wednesday, my first free night. + +Last night I went with Lady Northcote to the Opera; it was "Lohengrin" +with Miss Eames and the Reszkes. The girl looked beautiful, quite the +patrician maiden, and sang very well; a little cold, but that was of +less importance in that opera than in "Romeo and Juliet," which needs +more passion. The house was very full and she was much applauded. Jean +de Reszke looked magnificent and sang divinely. What a voice it is, and +how well he knows how to use it. I fancy Covent Garden is a much better +salle to sing in than our great Paris Opera. The voices seem so far off +there, and all the singers complain and get soon tired. W. came in late +just as I did. He had had a delightful dinner at Mr. Murray's (the +publisher) with Mr. Gladstone. He said Mr. G. was in great form, talking +about everything: books, politics, theories, and always with a perfect +knowledge of each subject expressed in beautiful English. He must have a +marvellous memory. + + + _To H. L. K_. + + #French Embassy#, + June 6, 1891. + +You will be amused, Dear, to hear that after all we have decided to have +the children's comedy. The moment is not exactly propitious in the +height of the London season when every instant is taken, but I think we +can make something pretty, and Mdme. Thenard is very keen about it. We +shall take the "Reine des Fees"--but very much changed, and parts added +for every child--also a gavotte and a chorus. I saw some of the mammas, +Countess Deym; Mdme. de Bille; Ladies Londonderry, Clanwilliam, etc., +yesterday, and they will let me have their daughters. Thenard will +direct the whole thing, with Count de St. Genys (Secretary of the French +Embassy in London) as regisseur and also decorateur, as he has begun +painting a charming decor (the interior of the bailiff's cottage). Mdme. +de Langhe will undertake the choeurs and lecons de diction, and I don't +quite know yet whom we shall get for the gavotte, or how many children +we must have. The dresses will be pretty--two sets--Marie Antoinette and +all her ladies in powder--Trianon costumes--and peasants, market women, +etc. Of course the boys are a difficulty. There are so few who are here +of Francis's old friends--they are all at school. Thenard has a little +friend (girl) whom she will dress as a Marquis--she says she will look +the part very well. Francis is much excited--he is to be the cruel +bailiff who takes all the money and everything else he can get from the +poor peasants. St. Genys will see about his costume, and make a croquis +from some picture of the period. + + June 12, 1891. + +We are all (except the Ambassador) perfectly taken up with the +comedie--and to-day we had our first repetition of the gavotte in the +drawing-room. I hadn't thought of saying anything about the dancing to +the young men, and it seems the "chancellerie" went nearly mad; their +rooms being directly under the salons, they heard everything--the music +beginning the same thing over and over again--and the heavy little feet +that couldn't stay long on the tips of their toes. I had some trouble in +finding a dancing-mistress--I thought first of the American who had that +dancing class here where all the children went, but she didn't seem to +understand exactly what I wanted. Finally some one told me I had much +better send for Mrs. Roffy--ballet-mistress at the Alhambra--who has +sometimes arranged menuets and gavottes for "les femmes du monde"; so I +wrote to her to come and see me. She knew exactly what I wanted, would +undertake the whole thing--how many children--what sort of a dance--was +most business-like--and we fixed the first repetition at once. There +were about 20 children, of all ages and sizes, varying from 3 years to +14--Muriel White, Gay Edwardes and her brother, a little de Breunen, +Elsa Deichmann, etc. Mrs. Roffy looked very nice. She is very tall, but +rather graceful--she had a little black bag in which were her black silk +stockings and pointed slippers, and asked if she might have a room to +arrange herself--so Clarisse took charge of her. I took the piano--and +most distracting it was--as no two of the children ever began their +steps at the same time. It was amusing to see Mrs. Roffy. She moved +extraordinarily gracefully for such a tall woman, and was so +patient--holding up her dress, pointing her toes, and talking to them +all the time--"Heads up, Dears--Heads up! Look at me--very proud, +please." I should have given up in despair after a quarter of an hour. +All the little arms and legs went at wrong times in wrong directions, +and no one seemed to have the slightest idea of time. She will give one +or two private lessons to some of the very small ones. + +Madame de Langhe, too, has her hands full with the chorus, "Vive la +Reine"--but I think she must have some one behind the scenes to sing the +solo, and then the children will come out strong in the chorus. The +roles are all distributed--Bianca Deym--a tall handsome girl--is to be +Marie Antoinette; and the various other Court ladies are Lady Helen +Stewart (Lady Londonderry's daughter), Lady J. Meade (Lady Clanwilliam's +daughter), Marguerite Phelps, Anna Lawrence, Elsa de Bille, etc. I think +it will be pretty. + + June 15, 1891. + +Hilda and I have been half over London to-day for our stage scenes. We +must have real ones representing a sort of wood where the market people +have their stands, and the Queen and the ladies come to buy +flowers--also sufficient space for the gavotte. The man promises to send +it all the day before, as the children must rehearse at least once with +the real scenes--for their entrees--that is always a little difficulty. +The bigger girls do all right, but the little ones rush in--speak very +quickly--and _always_ to Thenard, who stands at one side--looking hard +at her to see if they are doing right--and paying no attention whatever +to Her Gracious Majesty Queen Marie Antoinette. Muriel White is very +good, very deliberate, very careful, and taking all the French nuances +and intonations very well. Gay Edwardes, too, is very good--her French +is pretty and easy, she learnt it so young in Paris. One of the others +(I forget which one) was having a private lesson in a corner with +Francis, who was trying to make her roll her Rs in a proper French +fashion. She had a complaint to make of her garden--all about "carottes" +et "giroflees," and the sentences had a true British ring. Francis is +very important, takes himself quite "au serieux," and is most interested +in the proper diction of all the young ladies. I sat some time in the +drawing-room while St. Genys was painting his scenes. We had various +visitors (even W., who was very complimentary over the decor), tea, and +Thenard to settle about a rampe of flowers and tapestry curtain. + + Saturday, June 20, 1891. + +I am rather lazy this morning and feel as if I had suddenly nothing to +do. The comedie went off very well yesterday and was a pretty sight. +Until the last moment I was doubtful, as we had so many peripeties. At +the dress rehearsal on Thursday, Bianca Deym (Marie Antoinette) was so +hoarse she could hardly speak. The girl looked very handsome and +distinguished in powder (tres bien coiffee) and one of her mother's +handsome Court dresses, but Thenard wouldn't let her speak--said all her +part herself, and told Bianca to pay great attention to her voice and +gestures. Toupet (Francis), the cruel bailiff, had such a stiff neck and +sore throat that he could hardly move--so he was rubbed hard with +Elliman's Embrocation and sent to bed as soon as the repetition was +over. His costume was very good--coat and long waistcoat of prune +cloth--lace jabot--tricorne and gold-headed cane lent by one of his +English cousins--a wig of course--which quite changed him. The girls +looked charming--I don't know which was the most becoming--the powder +and Court dress or the short skirts and high caps of the paysannes. The +gavotte went very well. The small children in front and the bigger ones +behind. I never could have believed that anyone could evolve anything +like a gavotte from the whirling chaos of arms and legs that was my +first impression. M. Lecomte (Secretary of the Embassy), who is a very +good musician, was at the piano, and marked the time very exactly, which +was absolutely necessary for such young performers. + +Various friends and Mammas came to look on and criticise--which was what +we wanted--and all were pleased. Thenard and St. Genys were quite +delighted--and as they have seen it from the first and noted the +improvement, that was reassuring. Henry Edwardes came, much amused and +slightly astonished at his children's performance (the boy was so good). +He told me he considered it quite remarkable. He offered to take charge +of the green-room the day of the performance, and I accepted with +pleasure, as I am sure the children will be rather excited and probably +unruly. + +I had a note from Miss Knollys while the repetition was going on saying +that the Princess of Wales and her two daughters, Princesses Victoria +and Maud, would be present on Friday at the performance. I announced +this at once to my young troupe, and they were filled with pleasure and +dismay at the appalling prospect of playing before Royalties. I went for +a ride Friday morning with Pontavice and when I came in was given a wild +note from the Countess Deym saying that Bianca had a complete +"extinction de voix" and what could be done. If someone else could take +the part (which was impossible at such short notice) she would send all +her daughter's dress, which was very handsome, or Bianca would come and +look the part and Thenard do the talking from the coulisses. Of course I +chose the latter, and sent off Clarisse at once to the Austrian Embassy +with a remedy that Mdme. Richard of the Opera gave me. Francis was all +right, his neck quite straight. After breakfast I had a last practice +with him and Lecomte for the gavotte. I got in a small piano from Erard +(my big one took up too much room behind the scenes) and then I +dismissed the whole thing from my mind, and went to dress. I told the +children to be there at 4.30 so as to begin the minute the Princess +arrived. She said she would come at five. + +The little blue salon was a pretty sight when it was filled with all the +children in costume. Thenard's Marquis looked too sweet--she had dressed +the girl so well in satin coat, ruffles, and silk stockings, and +enormous paste buckles on her shoes. She did her part perfectly--so +easy, and such pretty French. The Princess came punctually with her two +daughters, and the play began at once. I think there were about 100 +people--we couldn't seat any more as the stage took up a good deal of +room. The prettiest scenes were the Trianon and the Market Place. In the +Trianon, Marie Antoinette was seated surrounded by her ladies, and le +Marquis telling them "les petites nouvelles de la cour." The child was +killing when she took out her snuff-box and made flowery phrases. The +Market was very well arranged with flowers and vegetables. Violet +Freeman made a splendid old woman at one stall, and Hilda Deichmann did +her boy's part very well. After the Queen had made her round (her voice +came back, though she was rather hoarse still) she and her ladies +retired a little to the background, where the Court made a brilliant +group, while the peasants sang their chorus, "Vive la Reine." Then came +the gavotte, which really went extremely well. Mrs. Roffy was breathless +with recommendations until the last moment. Both chorus and gavotte were +encored, and there was much applause when the curtain fell. + +[Illustration: +Violet Freeman Francis Waddington +A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy +From a Photograph by Barker & Pragnell London] + +The Princess, who is always so gracious, asked me what I would like her +to do, so I said if she would allow the whole troupe to defile before +her I would name each one--and I knew it would give them great pleasure. +She agreed at once, so the procession, headed by Marie Antoinette, +passed, and the Princess shook hands with every one, talking a little to +those she knew. They all applauded when Toupet, with his wig and cane, +appeared. Then I named Mdmes. Thenard and Roffy--and I wish you could +have seen those ladies' curtseys (Mdme. Roffy's particularly splendid), +also St. Genys and Lecomte. The whole thing lasted a short hour, even +with the repetition of chorus and gavotte. We had tea in the +drawing-room--the children downstairs. The Princess told me she thought +it charming--quite wonderful. The only two French children were Francis +and the Marquis, but I must say I thought the others quite wonderful. +When the Princess went away all the children assembled in the hall at +the foot of the stairs, bowing and curtseying--and it was a pretty +sight, such a mass of colour and flushed, eager little faces. The +Princess told them all again how much she had enjoyed the performance, +and it was quite a happy little crowd that dispersed soon afterward to +their respective homes. W. complimented Thenard very much, who had given +herself no end of trouble--also Mdme. de Langhe, who had undertaken the +chorus. Some of the ladies were rather anxious we should repeat the +performance for the benefit of some charity, but W. didn't like to have +a paying thing at the Embassy; and at one of the public halls it would +not have been very easy--some of the ladies objected. + +I dined at home, but went to a concert in the evening, and had various +compliments for my troupe. The Prince of Wales told me that the Princess +had told him it was quite charming. I think on the whole W. was pleased. +He was rather doubtful about inviting the Princess--thought it was a +little informal, and would bore her, but I don't think it did. + + Tuesday, June 23, 1891. + +We have had various notices in the French papers of the comedie; generally +"une bonne presse," but one or two of the very Republican papers expressed +great surprise at such a _Royalist Demonstration_--couldn't imagine _why_ +we had chosen that particular chorus, "Vive la Reine," at an Embassy +representing the French Republic! + +I am sorry you couldn't come over--all the repetitions would have amused +you so much. Nothing was funnier than to see Francis always in a corner +with some of the girls. Madame Campan (Elsa de Bille) had a long thing +to say, and was most anxious to have the correct accent. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #London#, + July 8, 1891. + +I dined quietly with some of the personnel last night, and had Thekla +Staal, as her mother and father had gone to Windsor for the State +banquet for the German Emperor. Mdme. de Staal came in for a moment on +her way home--she said it was very handsome, very well done, as it +always is at Windsor, only they were all rather uncomfortable, as they +went down from London by special train in full dress--diamonds and +feathers--and when they arrived at the Castle they were asked to take +off their wraps in the hall, no dressing-room of any kind provided. I +don't know what my erratic hair would have looked like. Of course I +couldn't go on account of my mourning. + +All London was on the "qui vive" this morning, as the German Emperor was +to make his formal entry into London. I thought I wouldn't go in the +carriage and take up a position, so Mrs. Edwardes suggested that I +should go with her to Constitution Hill, where she had places, and see +the Emperor pass there; so we started off on foot quite cheerfully, but +as soon as we got outside the Park and wanted to cross the Square, we +were confronted by lines of soldiers and policemen, who refused to let +us pass. I explained who I was and that I was merely going to cross to +Constitution Hill, but they evidently thought nothing of an Ambassadress +in a simple black dress with neither equipage nor servants, and we were +getting rather discouraged when I saw a Park-keeper who knew me, so he +instantly went after one of the heads of the mounted police, who +appeared, made way for us and accompanied us (he riding) across the +Square. Some of our friends, who were looking on from windows in the +houses opposite, were rather anxious--thought we had been arrested. We +waited a little while and very soon the head of the procession appeared. +We made ourselves as small as we could and squeezed close up to the +gate, but the Horse Guards on their big, black horses came unpleasantly +near and the least plunge or kick would have been disastrous. The Royal +carriage passed quite close to us at a quick trot. The Emperor looked +very wide-awake and soldierly in blue dragoon uniform; the Empress, tall +and fair, in white, was seated next to him; the Prince of Wales and the +Duke of Edinburgh on the front seat. There was not much enthusiasm, a +few hats (not all) lifted. The Emperor saluted all the time, +mechanically. When he saw me he leaned forward, smiled and bowed in +evident recognition. I can't think how he knew me, standing there in a +crowd of nursery-maids and children. He had seen me but twice before, +and then in the evening in full dress. I suppose it is that +extraordinary memory, instinct almost, that all Princes have, and which +does them such good service. Everyone is pleased and flattered at being +recognised by a Royalty. I was, too, just like all the rest. I wasn't +mistaken in thinking he knew me. He told one of our secretaries at the +reception at the Palace that he had seen Mdme. Waddington _standing_ in +the crowd. + +Hilda came to dinner with Countess Eulenbourg (wife of the Master of +Ceremonies of the German Court) and her boy. They were very late, as the +Countess had been to Buckingham Palace to see the Empress. She said the +confusion was something awful. She had great difficulty in getting in, +was sent from pillar to post and finally the carriage was allowed to +enter through the stable-yard. She was glad to have a quiet evening. Her +husband was at the gala performance at the Opera with the Emperor and +Empress. She spoke a great deal about the Emperor, said it was +impossible to be with him without feeling what a strong personality he +is; that what he felt was right and best for Germany he would certainly +do--also that he would never shirk a responsibility, or put the blame on +others if he made a mistake. It seems curious to be suddenly out of +everything. W. is still in France[11] and of course our deep mourning +makes all Court and gala things impossible for us. I think W. must come +back before the Emperor goes and try to see him in a private audience, +if nothing else can be arranged. + +[11] Where he had been summoned on account of the death of his mother. + + Thursday, 9th. + +All the Corps Diplomatique were received this morning at Buckingham +Palace--the men by the Emperor, the women by the Empress. Hatzfeldt +presented the men. In W.'s absence, d'Estournelles represented the +Embassy (with all the secretaries of course). As he was only Charge +d'Affaires, he could not take W.'s place as Doyen at the head of the +row--on the contrary, was quite at the end; after all the Ministers of +the small Powers--however they made a little group apart. The Emperor +talked a little while to d'Estournelles--regretted very much not seeing +W.--knew that he was still in France, and told him to tell me that he +had recognised me at once in the Park. He said a few words to each +member of the Embassy. The ladies were presented by Mdme. de Staal--my +young women told me she did it very well, passing down the line with the +Empress and naming every one. They also found the Empress very gracious, +saying something to each one--of course there is never any real +conversation on such occasions, people are usually in a hurry and +anxious to get through their _function_. + +This afternoon was the garden party at Marlborough House--Mdme. +d'Estournelles and Florian came in afterward to tell me about it; also +Mme. de Bille (wife of the Danish Minister), she is an American, nee +Zabriskie. They said there was a great crowd, and such a hedge of loyal +subjects around the Royalties that it was almost impossible to see them +even. Princess of Monaco (nee Heine), who was with the Court (her +husband being a "prince regnant," of a minute principality certainly), +made a sign to Countess de Florian to come and speak to her, and she +also had quite a talk with Princess Amelie of Schleswig Holstein, cousin +of the German Emperor, whom she had known as a girl in Pau, when her +father, Marquis de Nadaillac, was Prefet there. Staal came in late, and +hopes that W. will come back (he is always such a good colleague). He +thinks it will make a bad effect, the French Ambassador being the only +one absent. He thinks he ought to come over for the breakfast at the +Mansion House, which is strictly official, and where the Emperor will +probably make a speech. I will write to him to-night and tell him what +they all say. + + Friday, July 10th. + +I rode this morning with Pontavice, the Military Attache, and just +missed the Emperor, who was riding with six or seven officers, all in +uniform, which seems strange, as the officers never wear uniform except +when they are on duty. We sometimes see the officer of the day riding in +the Row in uniform, but never any other. In Paris it is quite different; +all the officers of the Paris garrison, which is a very large one, +always ride in uniform in the Bois in the morning. I went to the War +Office afterward to see the Emperor, Empress, and Prince and Princess +pass on their way to the Lord Mayor's banquet. The display of troops was +rather mesquin--the Grenadiers standing so far apart that there were +groups of street boys in between. The Royalties were fairly applauded +(the Prince and Princess are always whenever they appear). The Emperor +was in a white uniform, but his helmet is so big and heavy and so low on +his face that one could hardly see him. Francis and I dined quietly at +the Russian Embassy, and the Staals told us all about the various fetes. +They said the getting away from the Mansion House was awful--when the +gentlemen of the household were trying to make a passage for the +Princess of Wales there was a general skirmish, one of the ladies of the +Corps Diplomatique was struck on the shoulder by one of the gentlemen, +and there was a fine row--the husband of the lady furious, the +unfortunate equerry protesting, saying he was incapable of such an +enormity, etc. However, excuses were made and peace restored. + + Saturday, July 11th. + +I rode this morning with Pontavice, and we met the Emperor, also riding, +several times; but he did _not_ recognise me this time in my habit. He +had six or seven officers with him and two grooms. All the officers, the +Emperor also, in uniform, and wearing those long German sabres that hang +loose and make a great clatter. They all rode at a gallop and set all +the horses in the Row by the ears. I really had some trouble with my +quiet animal, who was jumping and kicking all over the place. I had +several visits at tea-time. My windows and balconies giving on the Park +are most attractive, as there are quantities of people about--a sort of +general excitement in the air, and royal carriages and soldiers passing +all the time. D'Estournelles came in and told me about the review. He +said the troops looked splendid, but the arrangements were very bad--no +seats reserved--he and his wife and many ladies standing all the time. +Mme. d'Estournelles was dead tired and had gone home to bed. W. came +back for dinner; he looks grave and sad. We sat on the balcony after +dinner while he smoked. He said he must go to the luncheon at Hatfield +for the Emperor and Empress. As long as he was Ambassador, he had no +right to let any private grief prevent his taking part in a public +function, particularly in this case, when his absence might be +misconstrued. + + Sunday, July 18th. + +I went this afternoon to consult some of my colleagues about my dress +for Hatfield. Of course I am in deep mourning, and I didn't know if I +could meet Royalties in black. At some Courts, Russia for instance, +black is not allowed--when people are in mourning they wear white. After +various consultations, I decided that I would go in my black dress; so I +have had some lace put on top of the flounce of "crepon de laine," which +is really very deep mourning. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + Tuesday, July 19, 1891. + +We had a most interesting day at Hatfield, and evidently we were right +in going. We went down by a special, W. in deep mourning, I in my black +crepon, my big pearls in my ears and around my neck, a little crepe +bonnet (with a soupcon of jet) and an ordinary dotted tulle veil. All +our colleagues were most empresses and nice--said it had been so strange +not to see either of us at any of the fetes. There were, as usual, a +certain number of young men, sons of the house, secretaries, etc., at +the station at Hatfield; plenty of carriages, and in a few minutes we +were at the house. We passed straight through the rooms to the terrace, +where a very smart company was assembled. Some of the young women in +white satin and lace, high bodices of course, all very much dressed, and +all with necklaces and jewels on their corsages. No one in particular +received us. Lady Salisbury was driving with the Empress, Lord Salisbury +talking with the Prince of Wales, and the Emperor riding. (The +Salisburys had an enormous house party, all arrived the night before for +dinner--the Emperor and Empress with their suite, also the Prince and +Princess and theirs.) I was strolling about the terrace with Countess +Deym when we came suddenly upon the Princess of Wales, walking about +with her "Kodak" and looking about 25 in her simple grey foulard and big +black hat. As we went up to speak to her, she made us a sign to stop, +saying "I want you in my picture." We talked to her a little while and +then she said she must go and make herself "smart" for the lunch-party. +There was still some time before there was any sign of Princes--or +lunch. Mr. Barrington asked us to stand near the perron, as he had +charge of the placing of the people. The Emperor and Empress appeared +first, and immediately made a sort of cercle. Lady Salisbury presented +me at once to the Empress, and she was most amiable, regretted not +having seen me at the reception at Buckingham Palace, adding, "J'ai vu +toutes vos jeunes femmes, plus jolies les unes que les autres." The +Emperor, too, was easy and pleasant, but so many people were brought up +to him all the time that he couldn't talk much. It was interesting to +watch him. He was of course _the_ central figure, and there is always a +certain curiosity as to what he will do. He holds himself very straight, +has a stern face and rather a stiff manner, not particularly gracious, +speaks English of course perfectly well (in fact looks like an +Englishman, particularly in ordinary dress--of course the uniform +changes him a little). I think he knew about everybody who was presented +to him; soldiers, statesmen, artists, and seemed to be interested in the +very short talks he had with each one. He and W. had quite a talk, and +he again expressed his regret at not having seen him before, and also +for the cause which had kept him away. The Prince and Princess stood +about on the terrace while all the presentations were going on, talking +to their friends. After about half an hour there was a move to the great +dining-hall. I think there were about 150 guests. The Royalties and +swells lunched in the great hall at small tables of ten, and the others +in the ordinary dining-room. I was at Lord Salisbury's table, who took +in the Empress; the Prince took me; Hatzfeldt (German Ambassador) Mdme. +de Staal; Rustem (Turkish Ambassador) Princess Maud; Soveral (Portuguese +Minister) Countess Spencer. At Lady Salisbury's table were the Emperor, +Princess, Staal, W., etc. The talk was fairly easy at our +table--Hatzfeldt said to me rather pointedly, "Je suis tres heureux de +vous voir ici aujourd'hui, Madame Waddington." The Prince also said we +were quite right to come. I said I thought my plain black dress was +rather out of place at such a brilliant entertainment, but he assured me +it was quite correct. + +About half way through luncheon came the pearl necklace incident (which +you saw in the papers). I suddenly felt that my necklace was unclasped. +It was sewed on the corsage in front, as the pearls are large and heavy, +and I am always afraid of breaking the string. I asked Soveral, who was +next to me, if he couldn't clasp it for me. He tried, but was nervous or +awkward; at any rate couldn't manage it, and we were both getting red +and flustered when suddenly we heard the Emperor from his table calling +W.'s attention to the fact that "le Portugal etait en train d'etrangler +la France"; also Staal, saying that his "Collegue du Portugal se livrait +a une gymnastique etrange." They all made various jokes at my expense, +and the Prince said "Let me do it," but he couldn't either, and again we +heard the Emperor remarking, "Maintenant c'est plus serieux--l'Angleterre +s'en mele." W., who had his back to me and who couldn't see what was going +on, was decidedly mystified, and wondered what on earth I was doing to +attract so much attention, in fact was rather annoyed. When we got up from +table the Prince and I retreated to a corner of the terrace, and he cut the +stitches that held the necklace in front with his knife (which again looked +funny to the people assembled on the terrace). He advised me to put the +pearls, _not_ in my pocket, but in a safe place, as they were very +handsome, so I put them _inside_ my dress. Of course everybody asked me +what had happened, and what the Emperor was saying to me from the other +table. I asked the Empress if she was never afraid of losing her pearls, +but she said all her jewels were most carefully sewn on and strung on a +very thick string or sort of silk cord. + +Very soon after lunch the Emperor and Empress left, as they were +starting in the evening for Germany, and had to go to Windsor to take +leave of the Queen. The Prince and Princess followed quickly, and then, +of course, all of us. W. had again a talk with the Emperor, and all his +colleagues told him he was quite right to come. Any little incident +between France and Germany always assumes gigantic proportions, and the +papers, both French and German, would have been full of the _marked_ +absence of the French Ambassador from all the fetes for the Emperor; his +mourning a pretext, etc. It was a beautiful entertainment--bright, +perfect summer day, quantities of pretty women beautifully dressed (a +great many in white) and representative people of all kinds. The general +impression was that the Emperor was not a lady's man--he evidently +preferred talking to army and political men. My talk with him was so +perfectly banal that I can scarcely have an opinion, but I should think +one might talk to him easily. His face is certainly stern, and the +manner very cold, but his smile, like the Queen's, lights up and softens +the face. I said to one of the pretty young women who had made a +luncheon-party for him, that I had heard that it was beautifully done, +and that he was much pleased. She said she hoped he was, that as far as +she personally was concerned he hadn't the slightest idea whether she +was 25 or 50. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #London#, + January 12, 1892. + +W. and I came over yesterday in a snowstorm. It was beastly getting out +of the train and on the boat at Calais. I am rather depressed, having +left Francis behind at a professor's near the Lycee Janson, to follow +the cours there as externe. I shall miss him frightfully, but it was +quite time for him to go to France and go through the regular course. He +was forgetting his French here. Of course he and his father always speak +French to each other, but he went to a little English school, Miss +Quirim's, in Sloane Street (where there were quantities of little +friends beginning their education), played all day with English +children, heard nothing else spoken around him, and was rapidly becoming +an Englishman. The house seems dreadfully quiet without him, and poor +little Bonny, the fox-terrier, is miserable. He couldn't think why he +wasn't with us to-day on our journey and galloped up to his room as soon +as he arrived at the Embassy, asking everybody really with his eyes +where his master was. Florian came in at once to see us, and told us +that the Duke of Clarence was frightfully ill at Sandringham. He always +looked rather delicate, tall and slight and colourless, but I hope his +youth will pull him through. He had been rather more en evidence these +last months since his engagement to Princess May, daughter of Princess +Mary, Duchess of Teck. I think it is a marriage that pleases the nation. +Princess May is young and pretty, with a pretty figure and essentially +English--born and brought up in the country. Everybody adores her +mother, Princess Mary, and I think it will be a very happy marriage. + + January 13, 1892. + +I am afraid there is no chance for the poor young Prince. Florian came +in for a moment, just back from Marlborough House, where the bulletins +are posted twice a day. There were crowds of people reading them and +trying to get some detailed information. Florian saw one of the +equerries, who told him there was no hope, he was sinking fast and would +probably not live through the night. He told him the Princess never left +him and was heart-broken, her eldest boy. It is hard for her. They seem +to think it was a neglected cold, caught out shooting, and not taken in +time. All the personnel came in to see me and brought their New Year's +present--4 pretty corbeilles for bonbons. They always give me something +New Year's Day and I am much pleased to have the souvenirs. I can hardly +realise that we have been here nearly 9 years. We came in '83 and +thought we should stay perhaps two years. I am so accustomed to the life +now that I feel as if I had always spent half the year in England and +the other half in France. I suppose I shall miss a great many things +when we retire into private life, perhaps most of all the family life +with all the personnel of the Embassy. We have had various changes, of +course, but I generally pull well with them all, and I must say they are +always ready to help me in every way. I haven't had too many women, +which is pleasant; women are much more complicated to deal with than +men--there are always so many small jealousies and rivalries. + + Thursday, January 14, 1892. + +The poor young Duke is dead at 9 o'clock this morning, in spite of all +that tender nursing and skill could do. He had not strength to fight +against the malady. It is awfully hard at his age and in his position; +just now, too, when his marriage was so popular. Florian came at once to +tell us, and said there was such a crowd outside Marlborough House that +he could hardly get through into the court, where the policeman showed +him the Prince of Wales's telegram, "All is over." We had various visits +at tea-time; Deym among others, who had done just what we did--sent +telegrams to the Prince and Princess and the Tecks at Sandringham. He +told me he had dined at White Lodge with the Tecks on Christmas Eve (for +their Christmas tree) and that they were all so happy. Princess Mary +took him upstairs and showed him all the presents--coupons of velvet, +brocade, etc., for dresses, also the wedding dress, and said to him, "Je +suis si heureuse que j'en ai peur." Poor thing; perhaps it was a +presentiment. I am awfully sorry for them, for her perhaps more than for +Princess May, who is young and must of course get over it, as youth +happily is elastic and rebounds; but Princess Mary is different. She has +her share of worries and disappointments, and she was so happy and proud +of the marriage. It must be an awful blow to her. + + Sunday, January 19, 1892. + +I went to the little church behind the Embassy this morning and am very +sorry now that I didn't go to St. Paul's, where there was a fine +service--the organ playing the Dead March in Saul, and all the +congregation standing, a good many women crying, all in black. It was +impressive in the little church--everyone in black. There is a general +mourning ordered for three weeks, and Court mourning for six (which is a +shorter time than I thought). (I send on a sheet apart what I would like +you to order for me. I have nothing black but my black satin evening +dress, which fortunately is all black, no white, lace, or colour). They +sang the funeral hymn "Labourer, thy work is o'er," the first time I had +ever heard it, and beautiful it was; read the prayer for the "Royal +Family in affliction," and one for the influenza--which surprised me, as +I should not have thought the epidemic was bad enough for that. The +sermon, of course, was all about Prince Eddie and the young life cut +short. It was very simple and earnest and the congregation certainly +felt and showed great sympathy. I went for a short turn in the Park +afterward and walked about a little with Henry Edwardes and his +children. He is rather down, poor fellow, as his conge drags on and they +seem in no hurry at the Foreign Office to give him another post. I +believe he didn't get on very well with his last chief, and of course +all chiefs are not commodes, but equally of course when there comes a +question the secretary is _always_ in the wrong. Edwardes is very clever +and cultivated. W. thinks him an excellent agent. In Paris he always +knew what was going on, and knew so many people of all kinds. + +This afternoon I had my usual Sunday visits--principally diplomatists +this time, and all talking about Prince Eddie's funeral. It seems a pity +they don't make a grand military funeral, the procession passing through +London. There was such a striking outburst of sympathy and loyalty when +his death was announced that the people would have been glad to +associate themselves with the last rites. They don't invite all the +Chefs de Mission to the funeral at Windsor (which also seems strange, +Prince Eddie being the heir), merely those of the "Cours apparentees." +That will take in Hatzfeldt, German Ambassador; Staal, Russian; de +Bille, Danish Minister; Gennadius, Greece; Soveral, Portugese; and +Solvyns, Belgian. All the others go to a special service at St. James's +Chapel, in uniform. + + Wednesday, January 20, 1892. + +To-day is the funeral. Our flag is half-mast, and all the windows shut +in the drawing-rooms. It is mild and damp, but not cold. Mdme. de +Florian and I have been driving about this afternoon to have an +impression of the streets. All the shops are shut, blinds down in all +the houses, flags at half-mast, and everyone in black. Some of the +hansom cab drivers with bits of black ribbon or stuff on their whips, +and everybody looks grave. I can't help thinking it was a pity not to +let the people participate in the mourning and feel they were taking +some part. In these days of democracy one should take any chance of +strengthening the feeling of loyalty. W. went off in uniform, with crepe +on sleeve and sword hilt, at 3, to the service at the Chapel Royal, St. +James's, which seems to have been rather mild. The diplomatists (4 +Ambassadors), Chefs de Mission, were received by Mr. Eric Barrington, +Lord Salisbury's secretary; Mr. Thomas Sanderson, and Colonel Chaine. + +W. dined in the evening with Hilda, to meet Count Seckendorff and Buelow, +who had come over from Germany to the funeral. They said the service was +very simple and impressive, and that the Prince of Wales and Prince +George looked badly, the Prince of Wales much agitated. Seckendorff said +he could just manage to speak to them when they all filed past him after +the ceremony. The Princesses were all in the chapel in a sort of +gallery. Quite at the end the Prince stepped forward and laid a white +wreath (given by Princess May) on the coffin. + + Saturday, January 30, 1892. + +It is still very mild and damp, rather dismal weather, and the streets +are depressing, everyone in black--the mourning is very general, not at +all confined to the fashionable world. Mdme. de Florian and I drove out +to White Lodge, and cheerless it looked, so lonely and sad with the +black winter trees all around the house. We did not see either of the +Princesses; they were in London, but Teck came out to speak to us. I +never saw him appear so well--he was so simple and distressed for his +daughter. He said she was very quiet, but perfectly heart-broken, and +that he had always had a presentiment that something would +happen--everything had gone too smoothly. He said the coming back there +after the funeral was something too awful--all the wedding presents and +stuffs and laces scattered about the rooms--letters and telegrams of +congratulation, bouquets of white flowers, in fact all the preparations +for a wedding; and at the same time people waiting to try on +mourning--telegrams of condolence, etc. What a tragedy! He said he had +no hope from the first. Prince Eddie was struck down at once, and he +didn't think the Princess of Wales ever had a gleam of hope. She never +left her boy until all was over. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + Wednesday, February 10, 1892. + +I went as usual to have tea with the Countess de Bylandt this afternoon, +who receives always Wednesday. She always has plenty of people and one +has a pleasant hour. She was worried about her husband to-day, who is +ill. He is not very young and I should think has always been delicate. +He is Dutch Minister, and has been here for years. She is a Russian +born, very clever and amusing. We dined with Baron Gevers, Dutch +Secretary, at the new restaurant or club, l'Amphytrion, which is +supposed to be the best and dearest in London. It is kept by Emile, a +well-known Parisian. We were a _young_ party, the Florians, St. Genys, +and the Lataings (Belgian Legation). The dinner was excellent, +certainly--Emile knew that his Ambassador was coming and had done his +best. He was always hovering about the table to see that all was right, +and we complimented him very much on the way everything was cooked and +served. I said to him that he had very good material in London to work +upon, to which he replied, with magnificent contempt for anything that +was not French--"Il n'y a pas de marche a Londres, je fais venir tout de +Paris." When one thinks of Covent Garden, with its piles of splendid +salmon, haunches of venison, hot-house fruits, grapes, pine-apples, and +_primeurs_ of all kinds, the answer was amusing. We went upstairs for +coffee and cigarettes and had a very pleasant evening. It is so good for +W. to be with young people occasionally. He talked a great deal, and the +young men were interested in some of his Cambridge reminiscences. + + Thursday, February 11, 1892. + +It is still quite mild. After breakfast I went with Hilda to the British +Museum to hear a young Oxonian lady lecture on Greek Antiquities and the +Eleusinian Mysteries. She did it very easily--a pretty, cultivated voice +and very distinct pronunciation. The lecture lasted about an hour. She +had all sorts of photographs of bas-reliefs, statues, paintings, etc., +and it was very interesting, much more so than I expected, as Greek +antiquities are not much in my line. After the lecture was over, Mr. +Thomson, the director of the Museum (a charming man), came to get us and +showed us as much as we could see before 4, when it gets dark and the +Museum is shut. The reading-room and library are enormous, and for +London very light. The collection of missals, autographs, etc., is +splendid. Some of the old, old missals so beautiful still, the colours +so wonderfully preserved. We went to Mr. Thomson's room in the Museum +building for tea. His daughter was there and gave us very good tea and +muffins. Altogether we had a most interesting afternoon. We dined with +Mrs. Mitford (widow of Percy Mitford, diplomatist). She has a very +pretty and original house and is a very easy hostess, having lived much +abroad. She is a great friend of Princess Mary and told me I ought to go +and see her. Mr. Lincoln, the American Minister, was there, and we all +teased him about the Presidential election (the papers say he is to be +the next President). Mdme. de Bille and I told him we were racking our +brains to think what we could ask him for our friends at home when he +would be at the White House. He assured us there was no possible chance +of it, and no one would be as sorry as he himself if ever the thing came +to pass. It certainly would be difficult to be a second President +Lincoln. + + Friday, February 19, 1892. + +It is still very cold, snow lying on the ground (in the parks), which is +rare in London. I have just had a little note from Princess Mary, asking +me to come and see her on Sunday at White Lodge, as she leaves early in +the week for the Riviera. Wolff came in late to ask me if I would take +him out to White Lodge, as Princess Mary had also written to him to +come. He had his violin, so he played for about an hour, and most +enchanting it was. I occasionally forgot about the accompaniment, +listening to his beautiful long notes. He didn't mind, was standing in +the middle of the room (playing by heart) and went on quite serenely +until I caught him up somewhere and went on again. I dined quietly with +Jean (as W. had a man's dinner at one of the clubs) and we made music +all the evening. She is very busy translating a German book, Lady +Blennerhasset's "Life of Madame de Stael." It looked easy at first, but +I fancy is rather a formidable undertaking, as Lady B. has a very +distinct style--very German, and I should think it must lose in +translation. She had rather come to grief over one page. I looked over +it, and said I didn't find it _very_ difficult, and I know German well, +upon which she replied, "Please read it out to me, then, in good +English." I began, but came to grief at once. I had got the meaning +right enough in my head, but couldn't at all express it at once in +correct or fluent English, and I don't know that a dictionary would have +helped me much. It was more the turn of the phrase and a peculiar form +of expression. + + Sunday, February 21, 1892. + +It is very mild to-day--a complete thaw. Wolff came to breakfast, also +Mdme. de Florian, and we drove out to White Lodge for tea. It was +pleasant enough driving, as there was no wind, but the park and place +looked dreary. I had always seen it so gay, with so many young people +about, that I could hardly realise that it was the same house. We were +expected--two or three footmen in deep mourning were at the door and +took us at once to the drawing-room. In a few minutes the three +appeared: father, mother, and daughter. I was rather nervous, but they +were so natural, it was such real grief, that we felt quite at our ease, +and so sorry for them all. Princess May looked lovely. She has grown +much thinner, and the long black dress covered with crepe, with the +white collar and cuffs (that all widows wear in England), was most +becoming. Her complexion was beautiful, so delicate, and her eyes had +that peculiar bright look that one sees in people who have cried a great +deal. Before tea I had a long talk with Princess Mary, who said that it +all seemed a dream--the first days at White Lodge, when the young couple +were so happy, making all sorts of plans, for their future seemed so +bright and brilliant; so convinced that long years of happiness and +usefulness were before them that she was frightened sometimes, and used +to tell them that there would be great cares and responsibilities in +their position, and that they must both help each other as much as they +could (she said Prince Eddie was naturally timid, and rather disposed to +underrate his intelligence). Then came the sudden change. Those terrible +days at Sandringham, where she hoped against hope, and then the coming +back to White Lodge, which must have been heart-breaking. I only said a +few words to Princess May as we were going away, but Mdme. de Florian +had some talk with her. She said she felt stunned--could hardly believe +that all was over, but that she must try and take up her life again. "It +will be very hard; I suppose I was too happy." + +They are starting at once for the South, and I hope it will do her good. +Various people came in, among others Mrs. Mitford, who is a devoted +friend of the Tecks, and so sorry for them. She said it was melancholy +to see them the first days after they got back to White Lodge. All the +presents had to be put away or sent back; all the letters and telegrams +sorted and put away, and that Princess May moved about like a ghost. + +We had a quiet evening until some late telegrams came announcing a +Ministerial crisis in France, for nothing apparently. W. and his +secretaries were disgusted. There are so many changes in France, and we +never know who is coming to the Foreign Office. I think it is time for +us to go back. We have been away a long time, and it isn't good for a +man to live too much out of his own country. + + #Albert Gate#, + Wednesday, February 24, 1892. + +It is very cold and foggy this morning, impossible to ride; we see all +the grooms exercising the saddle horses in the Park. I went for tea as +usual to Mdme. de Bylandt. He is still in his bed, and very bad I +imagine. This evening we have been to "Venice," the great show at +Olympia. We went a family party (Embassy), Florians, St. Genys, +Pontavice, d'Agoult. It is really very prettily done; you must see it +when you come over. We had a capital box directly in the centre of the +house, but the director, hearing we were there, came to pay us a visit, +and transferred us to the Royal box, which is very large and +comfortable--seats twenty people easily. He sent us some ices, and said +he would have two gondolas waiting at the end of the performance to take +us through the lagoons. The performance was a sort of ballet--very +pretty girls well got up in Venetian costume, very artistically grouped, +and quantities of colour. As soon as it was over we went down to the +"Canal," where we found two gondolas, the real thing, with Venetian +gondoliers, who were much pleased when I spoke Italian to them. We went +all around the show, passing under the Bridge of Sighs, and finally +wound up at a Neapolitan cafe, where they were playing and singing all +the well-known Italian songs, "Santa Lucia," "Bella Napoli," etc. +Florian of course found a friend, one of the singers, who recognised +him, having seen him in Rome when she was singing there; so of course we +all fraternised, and we stayed there some time listening to all the +familiar songs and accompaniment of guitar and mandoline. We had quite +the impression of having spent our evening in Italy. W. was much amused +when we told him of Florian's "connaissance," as he always says he knows +more people than anyone he has ever seen, and is related to half France. +He is always going to some cousin's funeral in Paris. French people are +so particular about funerals--never fail to pay that last respect to +their dead friends; also wear mourning much more than we do. They are +constantly in real mourning (not merely fancy black) for three weeks or +a month, for a very distant cousin. + + #Albert Gate#, + Monday, March 9, 1892. + +It is cold and snowing, not a very pleasant day for our excursion to +Herkomer's studio, in the country; however, I had a line from Hilda +saying they were quite willing to go if I didn't mind the weather, so I +consulted with Lecomte, one of the secretaries who was going with us, +and we thought we would go. It would be very difficult for me to find +another day, as London is filling up for its avant-saison, and we have +quantities of engagements. We met the Deichmanns at the station, and +there discovered that we had 40 minutes to wait, so we breakfasted there +in the big dining-room, and it wasn't bad at all. Deichmann knows +everybody and is well known at Euston--so thanks to him we had a really +excellent breakfast (and it turned out very well, as we only got to +Herkomer's for tea, and we should have been half starved). We had about +three-quarters of an hour by rail to our destination, Bushey, in the +county of Herts. It was bright and beautiful when we got to the station, +but the trees were white with frost and snow everywhere. We found our +host in a temporary installation. He is building himself an enormous +castle, and all the work, stone-cutting, wood-carving, painting, etc., +is done on the spot by his pupils, Herkomer himself superintending and +directing everything. He is most interesting; full of all sorts of +knowledge and fancies. We went over the studios and saw everything. Some +dull red wood they were using came from America he told me--I forget the +name of the tree, I think a Californian. It would have amused you to see +the eager, intelligent faces of the young workmen, especially when +Herkomer was going about explaining his ideas and criticising or +encouraging. It reminded me rather of an evening at Wilhelmj's (the +great violinist) long ago in Germany. He had a villa near my +sister-in-law's, Mdme. Charles de Bunsen, at Mosbach, near +Biebrich-am-Rhein. We all went over there one night to a musical party +when I was staying with my sister. His house was most artistically +arranged, all "Alt Deutsch," with an enormous music-room. He was waiting +for us there surrounded by all his pupils, about 10, with their violins +and music-stands, and all looking so eager and anxious to begin. He +played himself quite beautifully, and when he was accompanied by all the +others it was a very pretty sight, he in the middle and all the young +ones around him with their eyes fixed on him. He was one of Wagner's +right-hand men and played often with him. They played among other things +the prelude of "Parsifal," which haunted me for days afterward. You +can't imagine anything more divine than those beautiful long notes of +his and the soft arpeggio accompaniments of the violins. I couldn't hear +anything else afterward. Someone asked him to play Schubert's "Ave +Maria," which he did of course beautifully, but it sounded so tame after +the other, which I told him; but he said I was quite wrong, that +Schubert had written beautiful things, so melodious. All the same, I +would have preferred remaining with the impression of that wonderful +prelude. What reminded me of all this was the same sort of +cadre--"Maitre et apprentis," for Herkomer is quite the old-fashioned +embodiment of the "Master" with his pupils. We had tea in the studio, +where there were some fine portraits. I think I like his men better than +his women. It is so difficult to make an interesting picture of a man in +ordinary everyday dress. Herkomer has certainly succeeded in making some +wonderful pictures, without uniform, or costume, or colour of any kind +to appeal to the imagination. We got back late for dinner. I was rather +tired and cold after my long day--we had started early, and I persuaded +W. with some difficulty to go to Lord Salisbury's reception without me. +However, he rather enjoyed himself. He didn't get much farther than the +door, where he remained talking with Lady Salisbury, which he always +likes. I don't think he was away more than an hour. + + #Albert Gate#, + March 28, 1892. + +We had a nice canter this morning. There were a good many people out. We +had a pleasant dinner last night at Lady Winifred Gardner's, one of +those curious mixtures one only sees in London. The Brownlows, Lord +Carrington, Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, Hare the actor and his wife, also +various stray men. I found Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone both much +changed--much older--but he is marvellous--talked, eat, and drank like a +man of 50. Hare talked a great deal, and a great deal to W., who found +him clever and original. + + Wednesday, 30th. + +Well, my Dear, I opened my bazaar yesterday, and you will be surprised +to hear that I was rather nervous--only for one moment, I must say, when +they asked me, after one or two speeches and a little "Marseillaise," if +I would pronounce the sacramental phrase and declare the bazaar open. I, +with the committee, was seated in a red chair on the platform. When I +got up (the only person standing) and saw the crowd of faces beneath me +looking hard at me, for a moment I was shy, but that didn't last. They +all cheered me, so I recovered myself and made my statement, I think in +a clear voice. W. jibed at me well afterward when I told him. I made a +tour of the bazaar, buying something at each stall, Lecomte bringing up +the rear, carrying a large doll. Do you remember what Lasteyrie used to +say when he was W.'s Chef de Cabinet at l'Instruction Publique--that one +of his principal functions was to accompany Madame Waddington to all the +"Ventes de Charite" carrying a "paquet de chemises de femme," which +means that I get so tired of all the fancy boxes, and pin-cushions, and +screens I accumulate at the various sales that I finally asked for +"layettes" and "vetements de pauvres." Of course I can never have too +many in the country. I was amused to hear one of my friends here who +collects for the numerous "guilds" dilate upon the _smallness_ of the +objects sent her. She says she receives dresses and "brassieres" (a sort +of body with sleeves) that would go on _no_ child of any age that she +has ever seen. It is rather my own experience--people usually give me +very minute garments, also in the most delicate colours, and my children +work in the fields and at the "tourbieres." + +After we had visited all the stalls we had tea (not in a private room) +at a round table at one end of the hall near the buffet. M. Dupoutet de +la Harpe, the Protestant pasteur who got up the bazaar, explaining that +the people would so like to see us. I am always very dressy on those +occasions, so I was dressed in black satin with a great deal of jet, and +light blue feathers in my bonnet. I had just time to get home, have some +tea, and see that my "orgue Mustel" had arrived and was properly placed +and tuned to go with the piano, and to assist at a small rehearsal with +M. Guillemain (organist at La Trinite in Paris), for whom I am having a +dinner to-night, Merindol, and Miss Stuart, an American girl who has a +fine voice. The "orgue Mustel" is small and looks like a harmonium, but +it has wonderful tones, particularly when played by a master hand like +Guillemain's. + +My dinner interested _me_ very much--I hope the guests had the same +impression. I called it my "dinner of organists," and I tried to get as +many of the great English organists as possible, but only two came (the +notice was short), Dr. Stainer of St. Paul's and Dr. Bridge of +Westminster Abbey. Both have splendid instruments, and it is a great +pleasure to stay sometimes after a week-day service and hear a fugue +rolling through those great vaulted aisles. I had only asked musical +people, and warned them that it was _serious_. We were 24 at dinner, and +about 100 in the evening. The music was in the ballroom and the organ +sounded very well, quite a volume of sound. Guillemain played, of +course, beautifully and made it give all it could. The duos, organ and +piano, were charming. Miss Stuart sang very well. I found Dr. Bridge +most sympathetic. He and Florence Williams made great friends, and he +promised to play her a gavotte whenever she likes if she would dance. I +think you would have liked the evening--it wasn't banal. Staal was +sympathetic and interested, and asked me what was the next original +entertainment I was contemplating. + + Wednesday, 31st. + +We have rather a worrying letter from Henrietta this morning saying +their house in Paris was watched by the police, having been threatened +by the dynamiters on account of a judge who lives in the house. All the +locataires are leaving, and she is bothered, and wants to know what she +must do with Francis (who always goes to her Thursday and Sunday). I +want W. to write to the Prefet de Police to ask for an extra man, but he +doesn't seem to attach importance to it--says no harm ever comes when a +thing is announced beforehand. I can't help feeling uncomfortable. + + + _To G. K. S_. + + #Albert Gate#, + April 3, 1892. + +It is rather nice to-day. After breakfast we drove down to Battersea +Park, not a very fashionable resort, and walked about along the river, +which is always alive--boats, barges, steamers, children in battered old +scows that look as if they would break in two on the smallest +provocation, and loungers of all kinds, some fishing, most doing nothing +and keeping up a running fire of chaff and criticisms. The river life +plays a great part in London--the Thames is such a thoroughfare all +about London, and a beautiful pleasure ground higher up by Maidenhead, +Clieveden, etc. We dined this evening at Lady Mary Lloyd's. She sang +very well after dinner, and we went later to Lady Ashburton's, who has a +beautiful house crammed with pictures and curios of all kinds. She had a +concert of "old music" with old instruments--spinet, viola, viol +d'amour, etc. It was interesting in its way as a souvenir, but sounded +weak and _tinkly_. In these days of great orchestras no one would listen +to it. + + Easter Tuesday, April 19, 1892. + +I am delighted to have Henrietta and Francis, the boy's first holidays +since he has been in Paris, and he is enjoying himself extremely. He +rides with his father every morning, and goes about all day with his +friends. We are busy getting up a "toy symphony"--Mlle. Levisohn, +Francis's piano mistress, organises it. Francis has the piano, Comte +Vinci, our Roman friend (who plays extremely well), is first violin; a +little boy, a friend of Mlle. Levisohn's, the 2nd, and the minor +instruments are distributed among all the children, Edwardes, Lawrence, +Billes, Deichmann, etc. We gave young Bille, son of the Danish Minister, +the drum--but the unfortunate boy could do nothing with it, and his +mother said he must have some lessons. I applied to Pontavice (our +Military Attache), who said he was sure one of his friends, an officer +in the Guards, would arrange it for me, so accordingly there appeared +one morning a gentleman (Mr. Lloyd, I think) who said his friend, Comte +de Pontavice, had told him that I wished to have some lessons on the +drum, and that the drum-major of the regiment was quite at my service. I +hastily explained that the lessons were not for me, but for a young +friend who was to play that instrument in a toy symphony. He didn't seem +at all surprised at my wishing to learn to play the drum, and yet I +can't help thinking that he hadn't often been applied to for lessons on +the drum for an Ambassadress. He promised to send his man to the Danish +Legation, and Mdme. de Bille told me that all the household was upset, +and the maids distracted by the magnificent drum-major who came three or +four times, and retired to a sort of basement, where he and the boy +rattled away on the drum. If I had ever imagined what an undertaking it +was, I never should have agreed to the performance. The principal +instruments, piano and violins, were all right, but all the small ones, +quails, nightingales, and cuckoos (oh, the cuckoos!) were something +awful. The children distracted (sometimes they had 25 measures to +count), the mammas and governesses equally so, and the impartial +assistants (who had no children taking part) remarking to me with +absolute frankness that it was the most awful noise they had ever heard. +Comte Vinci, first violin, was a tower of strength, and kept them all in +order. It is awfully good of him to come and play with all those +children. + + Friday, April 22, 1892. + +I will write you about the performance at once, as I am too tired to do +anything else, and have dined quietly at home. We had a last repetition +this morning--Mlle. Levisohn directing from a small platform covered +with red cloth. For the first time I thought it would go--really almost +all the instruments were in tune and in time. Francis had been giving +private rehearsals all the morning to Wilhelm Deichmann (trumpet) and +the child, I forget which one, that had the triangle. The performance +began at 4, and the orchestra was most effective. All the young ladies +were in white and the men in dress clothes and white boutonnieres. It +was killing to see all eyes fixed upon Mlle. Levisohn as she stood on +her platform with her baton raised. It really went extremely well. +Pfeffer happened in, and said he had never heard the Romberg Symphony +better given. After the music was over Francis and Hilda Deichmann +played a little comedy, "La Souris," really very well--Mdme. Thenard had +coached them both. They weren't at all shy, and looked funny perched on +chairs, standing, afraid of an imaginary mouse. They wound up with a +dance, Gevers leading a most spirited cotillon. Francis danced with +Nannie, who looked very pretty. He was very proud of his American +cousin. Mlle. Levisohn had many compliments, and I think she was +pleased. She certainly took no end of trouble. + + #Albert Gate#, + Thursday, April 28th. + +I had a nice ride this morning with Pontavice. W. and Francis went off +on Monday--W. to Laon and Francis to school. Last night Henrietta and I +went to the Italian Embassy, where there was a contract party for +Tornielli's niece, who is to marry the Marquis Paulucci, one of the +secretaries. The fiancee looked charming in pink satin, with a very +pretty diamond tiara that her uncle had given her. There were a great +many people. I had the Camerons with me--Nannie looking very pretty and +chic in red satin with gold wings in her hair. I told her the dress was +much too old and heavy for her, she should have been in white tulle, +with nothing in her hair, but she says all the American girls wear +satin. The Tornielli entertainments are always handsome; their full +dress livery red is so effective. Henrietta and I have been driving +about shopping. I never go near a shop alone, but Mrs. Edwardes told us +there were wonderful "occasions" for silks at Marshall & Snelgrove's. We +did pick up several things not dear. The English shops are not at all +like the French ones. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #French Embassy, London#, + May 1, 1892. + +It is very cold to-day, and I think generally is on the 1st of May. One +can't imagine a Queen of the May, crowned with flowers, dancing around a +May-Pole. We are rather shivering, with a good fire in the room. It is +true that we have been sitting for some time at the window looking at +the crowds of people pouring into the Park for their great demonstration +(anti-capitalist). It seems to be all going quite quietly--there are +processions, and banners, and brass bands (such horrors), the usual +thing, and I am sure there will be no row and that nothing will +happen--nothing ever does happen in England. + +The Salvation Army are also holding their service in the Park, so near +that we can almost hear the hymns. There are always soldiers hovering +near when they have their service; I wonder if it does any good. When we +were at Dover last year I went quite often to their service--they had +one almost every afternoon, late, on the beach. It was a curious sight, +such a motley crowd, rugged old fishermen, boys (half water rats), +women, children, and occasionally a well-dressed, prosperous small +tradesman, often soldiers--some lounging on the outskirts of the little +circle, some sitting on boats, some reverent, some merely curious, but +all joining in the hymns. I must say it interested me very much; not the +sermon, nor the preachers as a general thing, but the little earnest +group gathered on the sands with the swash of the waves for an +accompaniment, and the red coats of the soldiers making a patch of +colour. Some of the women looked pretty even in their regulation +poke-bonnets. + + #French Embassy, London#, + May 8th. + +It is a beautiful, fine day. I did not perform the Drawing-room, but +walked about in the crowd with Pontavice, which was decidedly amusing. +We saw a good many people we knew in the carriages and talked to some of +them. Very tired they looked, having been for hours in the string. I +wanted too to see some of the handsome English turn-outs, as when we go +ourselves we hardly see anything but colleagues. The policeman, who knew +us, let us stand where we liked--I told him to stop the French +Ambassador's carriage when it came out. He did, and I jumped in, much to +the astonishment of the crowd. We had a pleasant dinner at Lady +Delamere's. About the middle the electric light went out and we sat for +a few minutes in perfect darkness, except for a succession of matches +that Lord Wimborne, who was next to me, lit. The servants lost their +heads, and didn't think at first of lighting candles which were on the +table. It only lasted those few minutes. Of course such accidents will +happen perpetually until the system is perfected and universally +applied. + + Saturday, May 20th. + +We had a pleasant dinner to-night at Lord Tweedmouth's and I went +afterward to a very handsome ball at the Burtons' with Nannie and +Pontavice. They have Chesterfield House--one of the best London +houses--flowers and electric light everywhere, and such splendid +pictures. All the smart women in London were there, and all with their +tiaras, except one, who explained to me that tiaras should only be worn +at Embassies, or when one was invited to meet Royalties, "which of +course you understand, as you haven't put yours on"--so I didn't tell +the reason, which was that I had forgotten mine, I so rarely wear +anything in my hair, and a tiara is heavy; also I have to be +"recoiffee," which I hate. My hair is done in the morning, and walks or +rides all day, and is merely pulled out a little at night. + + Saturday, May 21, 1892. + +We dined to-night at the Trevelyans, all Conservatives. The Stanleys +(African Stanley) were there. He looks as hard as steel, but I suppose +couldn't do what he has done if he were not. Many say he wants to be an +M.P. and is sure of his election. His wife can help him enormously. It +is so curious to me to see all the women occupying themselves so +energetically with politics. They go about the country canvassing for +their husbands; wear the colours of the party; and have affiches +sometimes in their windows. I saw one well-known political woman in +London who had large bills posted on her window, "Vote for Lord R." We +should be hooted in France if we did that sort of thing. My husband has +been candidate very often, for many offices, but I have scarcely seen +his name at the bottom of a circular and never heard him address a +public meeting of any kind--in fact, have never been in the country when +the elections were going on. It is rather curious, as women have such a +strong position in France--a mere de famille, and above all a +grandmother, is somebody. A clever, strong-minded grandmother is a power +in her family and immediate circle. + + #French Embassy, London#, + Wednesday, June 1, 1892. + +We had a funny experience to-night. We had been engaged for some time to +dine with the Gladstones, to meet the Archbishop of Canterbury and Mrs. +Benson. Mrs. Gladstone wrote to me yesterday, asking me to come +punctually at 7.45, as the Archbishop didn't like late hours (he is +rather a delicate man) and had asked to dine early. We made a great +effort to get there in time--and _did_; so did everybody else--except +the Bensons. We waited one hour--then went to dinner (they had sent a +messenger to Lambeth and the answer came back that the Archbishop and +Mrs. Benson had started _hours_ ago. Everyone was worried and feared +there must have been an accident. At 9.30 o'clock, when dinner was +practically over (we had got to the jellies and ices), a message was +brought to Mr. Gladstone. He left the room and reappeared with the +Bensons. The explanation was that Mrs. Gladstone had written her +invitation from Dollis Hill, a place belonging to Lord Aberdeen, some +miles out of London. They often stay there, so the Archbishop naturally +imagined he was to dine there, and they had been driving about in the +country. The poor old lady was dreadfully put out--"The Archbishop might +have known that we were in London." Of course the dinner was all brought +back and our evening was long. However, we managed to go for a moment to +the Foreign Office. I said to Lady Salisbury I hoped it wasn't the last +time we were supping with her at the Foreign Office (everyone says the +Liberals are coming in again). "Will you think me very rude if I say I +hope so, though of course I shall always want to see my friends in +Arlington Street" (their private residence). I think she and Lord +Salisbury are both tired and will be glad to have a rest, not that they +will _socially_, for they are always receiving, both in London and at +Hatfield. We got home fairly early, though the streets were crowded, +Piccadilly something awful. It is a regular London night--carriages +rolling in every direction, and all the world dining, dancing, supping. +W. was rather funny over the dinner and the long wait, but said that if +he had been in Benson's place he would have gone straight home from +Dollis Hill, and had a cup of tea in his library. + + Thursday, July 2, 1892. + +We had a small luncheon party this morning to hear the band of the Garde +Republicaine, who have come over from Paris for a few days to the +Exhibition. They play magnificently--we have been to hear them once or +twice and I assure you when they play the "Marseillaise" it makes one's +pulses leap. We had the Duke of Cambridge, Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar, +Staals, Coventrys, etc. They played on the terrace--we had draped the +balcony with red stuffs, and had some flowers and plants and about 70 +chairs on the terrace. The Duke talked a great deal. As soon as luncheon +was over he went straight to the library, which opens on the terrace. We +presented the Chef-de-Musique, and they played at once a few bars of +"God Save the Queen"; then the "Marseillaise," everyone standing. +Someone said to the Duke, "It is very fine, but not an anthem like our +'God Save the Queen.'" "Non," he answered, "mais c'est un magnifique +chant de guerre." They played for about an hour, people coming and going +and standing about on the terrace. Some of our friends passing couldn't +imagine what was going on--there was quite a crowd collected in the Park +listening. My dress hadn't come from Paris, so I wore white, trimmed +with Valenciennes; I thought a little of wearing a tiny tricolour bow, +but didn't after all. One of the prettiest women there was Mrs. Astor, +in black, with a big black picture hat. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Walmer Castle#, + July 17, 1892. + +We came down here yesterday and hoped (at least I did) to have a lovely +day on the water. Lord Dufferin is a great yachtsman and cruises all +about in his own little boat. At the present moment it is pouring--I can +hardly see the sea--every now and then comes a partial break and I get a +glimpse of a great grey expanse of water. We got down for dinner last +night; a small party, as there are not many bedrooms--Lord and Lady +Wantage (he such a nice man, one of the few Englishmen who has the +"Legion d'Honneur," which he got in the Crimean War), the Marchesa Chigi +from Rome, and various young men. The dinner was handsome--Lord Dufferin +always a charming host--and we finished the evening in the big +drawing-room, where I always feel as if I were in the cabin of a ship, +it is so directly on the water. It looks exactly as it did in Lady +Granville's time, and in fact Lady D. told me she had not changed +anything. When I went to the drawing-room this morning I found the three +ladies talking and trying to persuade themselves that it would clear +after lunch. I said I did not mind weather and could not stay in the +house all day, so we agreed to equip ourselves suitably and go for a +walk after lunch. In the meantime Lady D. took me over the house--we +went to see Wellington's room (where he died). His little camp-bed is +still there, and some interesting relics, bits of uniform, and one or +two letters framed and hung upon the wall. The room is small, in one of +the towers, nothing magnificent or ducal about it. In fact the whole +house is simple and not large, one good drawing-room, looking straight +out to sea, so that sitting inside you see the big ships pass apparently +close under the windows--a fair dining-room, no library or +billiard-room, and a few bedrooms--an ideal place for a _water_ life. +The moat has been changed into a garden and there is a tennis-court +somewhere, though I didn't exactly make out where. We went for a walk +along the sea wall with waterproofs and umbrellas, and I wondered if we +should be blown over into the sea, the wind came in such violent gusts +sometimes. It seems a child and a perambulator were blown off the other +day, and strange to say nothing was hurt, neither child nor +perambulator--only the nurse had hysterics. We walked to Deal and paid +Lady Herschell a visit. I rather demurred at going in, as my hair was +decidedly ruffled and I was very wet, but they all wanted to and I +didn't look any worse than any of the others. The Castle is fine, +interesting--not so large as Walmer, but with always the same beautiful +situation close to the sea. It is one of the Cinque Ports, and Lord +Sydney had it as long as he lived. The Herschells walked back with us, +and coming home was pleasanter, as the rain had stopped and the wind +diminished a little. I came up after tea, as I was a little tired and +thought I would take advantage of a quiet moment to write to you. I will +finish to-night, as we have come upstairs early. We had rather an +amusing evening. The young people proposed playing "Historical +Portraits," and insisted upon our all taking part. I protested +vehemently, as I never have drawn anything in my life. I remember the +drawing class years ago at Mrs. Ward's, when we all copied a Greek girl +with an amphora on her head, and the tears I shed over my performance. +The amphora (that might have been anything) was crooked and toppling +over, and all her arms and legs were of different lengths. Even the +drawing master was obliged to say I had no facility with my pencil. The +game is really an undertaking. Everyone is given paper and pencils and +you have 5 minutes by the watch to draw a historical portrait or +portraits. My neighbour, one of the sons, was doing something most +elaborate--a quantity of figures--my other neighbour, about my calibre, +looked helpless, but said she must do something. What do you think she +did? "The House that Jack Built," an infantine production with 4 lines +and a chimney, the sort of thing that we all have done as children. That +gave me courage, particularly as she had played the game before, and +knew what could be received, so I drew the "Man in the Moon." Can't you +see it--a large, round O with dots for eyes, nose, and mouth. Some of +the drawings were really very clever--the "Field of the Cloth of Gold" +with a great many figures, and Raleigh and his cloak before Elizabeth; +Queen Elizabeth with a chignon and a short bicycle skirt. We amused +ourselves very much. We leave to-morrow morning, W. by the first train, +as he had an early rendezvous in London. I shall go a little later with +the Wantages. + + #London#, + Friday, July 22, 1892. + +W. and I drove out to Lyon House this afternoon to a garden party at the +Duke of Northumberland's. It is a fine old place, about an hour's drive +from London, with big iron gates, with the Percy lion with its tail +straight out on top. The Duke did not appear--his daughter-in-law, +Countess Percy (who is a daughter of the Duke of Argyll) did the +honours. She showed us the great corridor and large drawing-room with a +fine Adam's ceiling, and then we went out into the garden, where there +were quantities of tents, carpets, tea-tables--and half London. Everyone +was talking elections. I sympathised with Philip Stanhope, who has been +beaten, and said, "Why didn't you spend more money while you were about +it?" He was not in the least outraged at such a question, and replied +promptly, "I should have certainly, if I hadn't been so sure of being +named." They say a great deal of money has been spent this time. + + #London#, July 27th. + +We had our last outing for this year last night; a handsome dinner at +Tornielli's for the Duc d'Aoste. He is a tall, good-looking young +fellow, decidedly dashing, and inclined to amuse himself. He is a +curious contrast to his father, whom I liked extremely, but who was cold +and silent, looked like a Spanish grandee of the Middle Ages, or a +soldier-monk--a very striking face and figure. Countess Somaglia (nee +Gwendoline Doria) was among the guests, with her two daughters. We +talked a little of old days in Rome. I remember so well when she was +married. + +To-morrow I shall make our paquets, and we four, Francis and I, May and +Beatrice, leave for Bayreuth and the Tyrol by the Club train on +Saturday. I ordered my mountain dresses at Nicoll's--two skirts to one +jacket--a real short one faced with leather for mountaineering, and a +longer one, shortish too, for travelling, in blue serge; a shortish blue +linen, and an alpaca. All the personnel dine to-night for good-bye. This +is my 9th season in London--I wonder if I shall ever see it again. I +have a presentiment that next year we shall only go back to take leave. + + _To G. K. S._ + + #French Embassy#, + February 1, 1893. + +We came over last night; a very good crossing, the shortest I ever made; +we were just one hour on the boat. Lady Salisbury was on board, coming +from the Riviera. We talked all the way over. She is very sorry we are +going--says the Queen will regret M. Waddington very much; that she had +great confidence in him, and now, at her age, rather dreads seeing +strange faces around her. W. is very glad to get back to France--I too. +After all, ten years is a long time to be away from one's country. + + Sunday, 5th. + +W. and I drove out this afternoon to White Lodge to say good-bye to +Princess Mary. As we came quite near to the house we crossed very +quickly two gentlemen in a hansom and just recognised the Prince of +Wales and Prince George. Everyone is saying that that marriage will be +arranged. Princess Mary and Princess May were alone, and decidedly more +cheerful. Princess May still in black, but with no crepe and a little +jet. Princess Mary was charming and friendly as she always is, and +seemed really sorry we were going, also wanted to know who was coming in +our place; but that I couldn't tell her. She promised to come to tea one +afternoon at the Embassy before we went away. Various people came in to +tea, as they always do here on Sunday afternoon, and someone said the +marriage was certainly decided and would be announced after the 27th, +which was to have been the wedding-day last year. They certainly looked +much brighter and happier than I expected to see them. + + #French Embassy#, + February 13, 1893. + +I went this afternoon to the House of Commons to hear Mr. Gladstone make +his great Irish speech. I had an excellent place in the front row of the +ladies' gallery, and heard and saw everything. The House was packed, +chairs all along the gangway--the Prince, Dukes of York and Teck in +their places, quantities of peers and some diplomats--no Ambassadors, +which surprised me. I know that W. always prefers reading a speech the +next day, but I thought some of the others would be there. Mr. Gladstone +was much cheered by both sides when he came in (a tribute to his age and +intelligence rather than to his politics). He rose to speak at a quarter +to 4, finishing at 5 minutes past six (two hours and 20 minutes). He was +much quieter and less passionate than I had expected. There was no +vehement appeal for the wrongs of Ireland. It was more an "expose de +motifs" than a real speech, but it was an extraordinary effort for a man +of his age (83). His voice was so clear and strong, never faltering: a +little weaker and lower perhaps toward the end. I suppose it is the last +great political speech he will ever make. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #French Embassy#, + March 3, 1893. + +We are beginning our tournee of farewell visits, and to-day we have been +to take leave of the Prince and Princess of Wales at Marlborough House. +I had not seen the Princess since Prince Eddie's death. I wore blue +velvet and my Jubilee medal. We were received at the door by all the +household--Probyn, Lord Suffield, Stanley Clark, Lady Suffield, and Miss +Knollys. Prince George was in the first drawing-room. The Prince and +Princess with two daughters in the big long room. I can't say I found +the Princess changed or grown older. She looked sad, but it was the same +slight, youthful figure. She was still in deep plain black (woollen +stuff) with no ornaments. She was charming, with the sweet, simple +manner she always has. Tears came into her eyes when she said she hadn't +seen me for so long on account of her mourning. I asked her about her +first grandchild--Princess Louise Fife's little girl. She said she was a +dear little thing, talked a great deal, trotted about everywhere, and +called her "Granny." W. and the Prince talked together, but we didn't +stay very long. I didn't say a word to the Princess about Prince Eddie +(they told me not to), only just as we were going I said I hoped the end +of the year would bring her happiness and blessing. She squeezed my +hand, but her lips quivered and she couldn't speak. She has been +unfailing to us always and said we should certainly meet again, and that +I must always let her know when I came to England. I begin to realise +now that we are going, with all these leave-takings. After all we have +been here 10 years, and that is a good piece out of one's life. + + #Albert Gate#, + March 5, 1893. + +I wish you had been here yesterday to see the farewell dinner for W. at +the Mansion House. It was a great tribute to a departing Ambassador--all +the distinguished men in England assembled to say good-bye. The Lady +Mayoress had asked me to dine with her and bring anyone I wanted, so I +took Hilda and Mdme. de la Villestreux. Hilda and I started together a +little before 7. As we drew near the Mansion House there was quite a +crowd; quantities of policemen, and empty carriages driving away. We +went in by the same entrance as the men, and then turned off sharp to +the right and were conducted to the drawing-room of the Lady Mayoress. I +wore black moire with a great band of orange velvet on the corsage, and +all the jewels I possessed--tiara, pearls, and diamond necklace and +diamond stars and ornaments fastened on the front of the dress, as I +knew we were to sit in the gallery after dinner to hear the speeches. We +found Mdme. de la Villestreux already there--there were 16 women. The +Lady Mayoress presented them all to me. They were all ex-Lady +Mayoresses--"ladies who had passed the chair," which it seems is the +technical term. She also gave me a splendid bouquet tied with a +tricolour ribbon. The dinner was very good, the traditional London +public dinner menu--turtle soup, salmon, etc. There was very handsome +silver on the table: great massive bowls and flagons and beautiful +flowers--very quickly served, and really very pleasant. After the first +five minutes everyone talked. Some of the women were handsome, all well +dressed and with quantities of diamonds. Just as we were finishing a +servant came to summon us to the gallery. The loving cup was going round +and the speeches were to begin. The Lady Mayoress led the way to the +gallery in the great banqueting hall directly opposite the table +d'honneur. It was a striking sight, particularly that table where was +the Lord Mayor in his robes, and all the diplomatists with stars and +broad ribbons. There was a blaze of light and at first I couldn't +recognise anyone (we were very high), and then I saw W. standing, +drinking out of the loving cup, with the Lord Mayor on one side and +Rustem on the other, and gradually I made out a good many people. There +were two long tables besides the table d'honneur, and they told me about +300 guests. All the representative men and intelligence of England +assembled to say God-speed to the departing Ambassador. The Speaker and +Lord Herschell (Presidents of the two Houses) were both there, and men +of every possible coterie from Lord Lorne to James Knowles of the +"Nineteenth Century." As soon as the regular toasts had been drunk there +was a pause and then came the toast of the evening with "bumpers," "The +French Ambassador." There were roars of applause when W. got on his +legs, and I must confess to a decided choke in my throat. W. spoke (in +English, which they had asked him to do) very simply and very well, +going back to his early days. When he said that he had done his best +always to keep up good and friendly relations with England, and that he +had had much sympathy from all sides, he was much cheered; but much more +when he said that perhaps what had given him more friends in England +than any of his public acts as a statesman was the fact that he had +rowed in the University eight at Cambridge. Then there were roars of +applause, and he heard quite distinctly the people below saying--"he is +quite right, we always remember it." He was quite emu when he came to +the end; his voice taking that grave tone I like so much when he said +"good-bye." One heard every word. He was much cheered when he finished. +The Lady Mayoress came and shook hands with me and asked me if I wasn't +proud of my husband. Some of the speeches were charming--the Speaker's +particularly; Lord Lorne also made a very pretty little speech, and +Rustem (Turk), who answered the toast for the "Corps Diplomatique," made +a very good speech. I can't remember all the names and all the speeches, +but it was a most brilliant assembly, and as Countess Deym said to me, a +wonderful tribute to W. As soon as the speeches were over we all went +down to the great hall, where I had a perfect defile of compliments and +regrets, Lord Lorne again repeating his words "that W.'s departure was a +national calamity." All had something friendly to say--the two Law +Lords, Judge Bowen and Sir Francis Jeune, most sympathetic. S. too told +me I should be much pleased--he had never seen such a demonstration in +England for a foreigner. Of course some of the young men came in to the +Embassy to talk the dinner over, and gave their impressions. They were +all much pleased. W. certainly was, and said he felt quite emu when he +saw all the faces turned to him and knew that every word he said would +tell--also he knew quite well that his reference to the boat-race would +appeal much more to the _general_ public than any expressions of good +feeling toward England. He hasn't always had an easy time with his +English name and his English education. Of course it has been very +useful to him here, as he has been thrown with all sorts of people, and +could understand the English point of view, but in France they were +always afraid he was too English. I think when he has gone they will +realise at home what good work he has done here _because_ he understands +them. + + #French Embassy, London#, + March 8, 1893. + +W. and I went together to the Mansion House, Tuesday, to pay a farewell +visit to the Lady Mayoress, who was receiving formally with music, tea, +and quantities of people. The Lord Mayor appeared too when he heard we +were there, and was quite pleased when W. said how gratified and touched +he had been by the banquet and the universal expression of regret at his +departure. The Lord Mayor said to him, "You can't find any warmer +friends, Ambassador, in France than those you are leaving here, but I +quite understand that a man can't live long out of his own country." We +had just time to get back to the Embassy, dress, and start for Windsor, +where we dined: our last stay in the yellow rooms. The dinner was almost +entirely Royal--the Empress Frederick, Prince and Princess Christian, +Prince and Princess Henry of Battenberg, Duchess of Connaught, del Mazo, +the Spanish Ambassador, I the only other lady. The cercle was not +long--I thought the Queen looked tired. She sat down at once; said she +wouldn't say good-bye, as she hoped to see me once more at Buckingham +Palace. She said at her age she rather dreaded saying good-bye, also +seeing new faces, and she was very sorry we were going. "Who comes to +replace you?" I said I thought nothing was yet decided. I talked some +time to the other Princesses after the Queen had congedied me. The +Empress was as usual charming, and said, "I am afraid we sha'n't meet +again often, Mdme. Waddington, you won't cross to Berlin, and I can't go +to Paris, but that isn't my fault. I think we shall have to meet in +Italy, where I first had the pleasure of seeing you." The end of the +evening we spent as usual in the drawing-room with the "household." I +had quite a talk with Prince Henry, who is very good-looking and +attractive. We left the drawing-room about eleven--W. going as usual to +smoke, and I to my rooms. I sat some time in front of the fire in the +beautiful little yellow drawing-room wondering if I ever should see it +again, and going back to our first Windsor visit, when all was so new +and strange to me. I wonder where we shall be this time next year, and +if we shall settle down easily to our quiet life in France. W. came in +rather late from the smoking-room: he said all the men were so nice to +him, and seemed really sorry he was going; also were very anxious to +know if he wasn't sorry himself. + +This morning (Wednesday) it was beautiful. I breakfasted as usual in my +rooms and sat some time in the deep window recess watching all the +people coming and going. There is always so much life about Windsor when +the Queen is there. About 10 Colonel Byng came to take us to the Chapel +to see the sarcophagus of Prince Eddie, which is enormous and has rather +too much colour--almost gaudy. I went with Hilda the other day to +Gilbert's studio to see the monument he is making, and which I liked. It +is very elaborate and complicated, but the sleeping figure good: so +reposeful and young; the long straight limbs. One quite realised a young +life cut short. Gilbert is clever and interesting, and begged us to +criticise freely. + +We got home about 12 and I took a short turn in the Park before +breakfast, which was full as usual when the Queen passes. She came this +afternoon for two Drawing-rooms. I shall do my last to-morrow--I sha'n't +go to the second. + + #French Embassy#, + March 10, 1893. + +I am doing all my last things. I went to the Drawing-room yesterday (our +last). Countess Spencer presented the ladies, and looked very stately +and handsome in black, with splendid jewels. The Queen didn't stay very +long, but looked less tired, I thought, than the other night at Windsor. +I said good-bye to a great many people whom I sha'n't see again. At this +season plenty of people are still in the country, and only come up for a +day or two for Drawing-rooms, theatres, etc. Teesdale and I had quiet an +affectionate parting. For so long now we have made our entree together +into the Throne Room: he holding my hand and both of us making a deep +bow and curtsey at the door, that we have become quite like puppets. + +This afternoon I have had my farewell audience from the Queen at +Buckingham Palace at 4 o'clock. I wore as usual the blue velvet, which +will walk about alone soon, as it has done all the ceremonies lately; my +pearls, and a creme velvet bonnet with light blue feathers. I went in +the ordinary open carriage (not gala). The gala carriage with the +powdered wigs, big footmen, canes, etc., went out yesterday for the last +time to the Drawing-room. I had some difficulty in getting into the +court-yard, which was filled with carriages, luggage-vans, soldiers, +etc., as the Queen was leaving this afternoon for Windsor. I was sent +from one entrance to another, in spite of the tricolour cockade, and +finally drew up at a side-door (where a shabby little victoria was +standing). A man in ordinary black livery appeared, and after a short +parley (in which I intervened myself, saying that I was the French +Ambassadress and had an audience with the Queen) he showed me into a +room on the ground floor. I waited about 15 minutes (it was 5 minutes to +4 when I arrived) and then Lady Southampton, Lady in Waiting, appeared, +with many apologies for being late--she didn't think I would come so +soon (and I was a little afraid of being late, they kept me so long in +the court-yard). We went upstairs to a small drawing-room looking out on +the court-yard, and in about 10 minutes the same servant in black +appeared, saying, "The Queen is ready to receive the French +Ambassadress." Lady Southampton said she couldn't come, as the Queen +wished to see me alone, so I followed the servant down a long +corridor--he stopped at a door, knocked, a voice said "come in," and I +found myself in the Royal presence. It was a small, ordinary room, +rather like a sort of waiting-room, no traces of habitation, nothing +pretty or interesting. The Queen was standing, very simply dressed in +black (her travelling dress she said, she was starting at once for +Windsor) before a writing-table which was in the middle of the room, +covered with books and papers. She was most kind, made me sit down on +the sofa next to her, and said she was afraid she had kept me waiting, +but that she had been kept by a visit from Mr. Gladstone--she then +paused a moment, so I made a perfectly banal remark, "what a wonderful +man, such an extraordinary intelligence," to which she replied, "He is +very deaf." She expressed great regret at our departure, and hoped we +were sorry to leave England and all our friends, but after all Paris was +not very far off, and she hoped she should see me again. She was sure M. +Waddington would find plenty to do when he got back--would he continue +his literary work? I said he would certainly have plenty to do, as he +was Senator and Membre de l'Institut, but that we should both miss the +Embassy life and the varied interests it brought. She repeated that she +hoped to see me again, so I asked if ever I came back to England might I +write to one of her ladies, and ask if I could be received. "Pray do, +and I shall not say good-bye, but au revoir." We talked about 15 minutes +about all sorts of things--some of our colleagues--our successor, etc. +She asked again who was coming to London, and said, "My last two +Ambassadors to France were ex-Viceroys." It seemed to me that she said +it on purpose, and that she wanted France to send one of her best men to +St. James's. I repeated the remark to my husband, and the chancellerie. +It is quite true. The present British Ambassador, Lord Dufferin, is +certainly the first diplomatist they have. He has had every +distinguished post England can offer--Ambassador to St. Petersburg and +Rome, Governor of Canada, and Viceroy of India, and has played a great +part. His predecessor, Lord Lytton, was also Viceroy of India, and very +distinguished, though in a different way from Lord Dufferin. I rather +fancy that Montebello would be an acceptable appointment. He knows +English well, has English relations, and I should think would like the +post, but I have really no idea. Some of the papers say that Ribot wants +the place, but I think he prefers home politics and would not care to +leave France; however, I could not tell the Queen anything definite. She +kissed me at parting, and gave me her photograph, signed, in a handsome +silver frame--then half turned her back, moving to a door on the other +side of the room, so that I could get out easily and not altogether a +reculons, which would have been awkward to open the door. I tucked my +parcel under my arm, opened the door myself (a thing I don't often do in +these days, except my bedroom door) and found myself again in the long +corridor. My audience was over, and I daresay I shall never see the +Queen again. She was unfailing to us both from the first moment, always +welcomed us with the same smile, was always inclined to talk about +anything and to understand and smooth over any little difficulty or +misunderstanding. I think she is a wonderful woman and a wonderful +Queen. In her long life she must have had many difficult questions and +responsibilities, and certainly England has not suffered under her rule. +I met Lady S. in the corridor, who came downstairs with me, and said she +was quite sure the Queen meant it when she said she would like to see me +again, that she _never_ said anything she didn't mean. + +I found Hilda and one or two friends when I got home who told me that +the English ladies, headed by Ladies Salisbury and Spencer, representing +the two parties, Conservative and Liberal, were going to give me a +souvenir (in memory of my ten years in London), a jewel of some kind. I +was rather pleased. The last days of adieux are rather melancholy. I +shall be glad when they are over. I forgot to say that Wednesday I had a +message about 3 o'clock from the Princess Beatrice, saying she and +Prince Henry of Battenberg would come about 5 and ask me for a cup of +tea. The notice was so short that I hadn't time to ask anyone except +Hilda, who happened in, and some of the secretaries. They came alone and +were most friendly--said they had not given me any more time on purpose, +as they didn't want a party, but merely to see us. They were as easy and +pleasant as possible, she talking much more than she ever does in the +grand monde. I told her I hoped she would let me know if ever she came +to Paris. She said. "Oh, yes--and we will do a lively play together." + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #Albert Gate#, + Tuesday, March 14, 1893. + +I went this afternoon with Mdme. de la Villestreux to the French bazaar +at Kensington Town Hall to receive Princess Mary, who opened it (and +very much better than I did the day I performed the same thing). Mdme. +de Bylandt, de Bille, Mdme. du Poutel de la Harpe were all there waiting +at the foot of the stairs. Princess Mary was easy and charming, and I +really think was not bored. She had all the ladies presented to her, +talked to them all, knew apparently all their relations, young and old, +complimented them on the arrangement of their stalls, said the various +objects made and presented by the Ladies' Art Association were very +artistic and useful (I wish you could have seen them--_our_ pincushions +at the Vente des Diaconnesses were things of beauty next to them), took +her tea, said the cake was so good, and delighted everybody. When I see +how easy it is for Royalties to win golden opinions with a few gracious +words and a smile, I wonder at the stiff, stand-off manner some of them +adopt. Princess May looked very slight and pretty, and is always well +dressed. I again wore the blue velvet, which will fall off me soon, but +this time I changed the bonnet and wore a black jet one with a red rose, +and it wasn't very pretty. + + March 16, 1893. + +We had a last musical afternoon to-day at Marie Humlicher's: 8 hands, +two pianos, she directing and the performers being Ctesse. de Bylandt, +Mlle. de Staal, Hilda and I. We played Mozart and Schumann, really very +well. Mlle. Humlicher has a nice big room over a coutouriere on Fulham +Road. She always gives us tea after the music, which is generally +brought up by a tidy little English maid with her cap and apron. She was +astounded this afternoon when the tea was brought in by a most elegant +young person, dressed in the latest fashion, and attended by a second, +also most stylish--however, as the tea was all right she did not say +anything; neither did I, but I waited a moment after the other ladies +had gone and she had a mysterious conversation on the stairs and came in +highly amused. It seems the two elegant ladies were the dressmaker and +her assistant. When they saw all these ambassadorial equipages at their +door--enormous powdered footmen, wigs, cockades, etc., also Hilda's +beautiful carriage (Deichmann has splendid horses always and everything +perfectly well turned out), their curiosity got the better of them and +they felt they _must_ see the swells; so they interviewed the maid, +installed her in their rooms to attend to any customer who might come, +got into their swell garments, and brought up the tea. Wasn't it funny? +Luckily we were all rather elegant. I had been paying some farewell +visits, and it so happened that we were all up to the mark. I have +sometimes gone to Mlle. Humlicher's on foot in a cloth dress, as it is +not far from the Embassy. I am sorry to have done with those +afternoons--Mlle. Humlicher plays beautifully--she is a pupil of +Rubinstein's and has a real artistic nature. + + Friday, March 17th. + +I had a line from Lady Salisbury yesterday, asking if to-day at 5 would +suit me to receive the ladies and my present. I accepted of course, +asking her about how many would come. She answered, between 50 and 60, +she thought. As the moment drew near I got rather nervous, for W. said +they would certainly make me a little speech and that I would have to +reply, and he suggested thinking it over; but that I refused and said I +must trust to the inspiration of the moment. I wore my purple satin. The +ladies arrived very punctually. There were one or two men, all the +personnel, including W., and one or two of my friends, Sir George +Arthur, Gevers, etc. Lady Salisbury asked me where I would stand, so I +put myself in the middle of the big drawing-room, under the chandelier. +Lady Salisbury was spokeswoman, flanked on one side by Lady Spencer, the +other by Mrs. Gladstone; all the other ladies, including Ladies +Londonderry, Cadogan, Shrewsbury, Harcourt, etc., forming a circle round +me. Lady Salisbury made a very pretty little speech, beginning--"Madame +Waddington, Ambassadress," and saying they hoped I would sometimes think +of England and my English friends, that I had been there so long that I +seemed one of themselves, etc., and then handed me a blue velvet etui. I +don't know exactly what I replied (I was rather emue and W. just +opposite to me was looking at me hard), but evidently only a few words, +to say that the ten years I had spent in London had been very happy +ones, that France wasn't very far away, and that I hoped to come back +often--but I think they understood that I was pleased and grateful for +the present, and above all with the feeling that prompted it. The jewel +is very handsome, a circle of large, beautiful white diamonds with a +large pearl in the centre and another as pendant. It was passed around +the company and they all found it very handsome. We had tea in the blue +room, and I talked to them all and said what was perfectly true, that +they had been ten perfectly happy years we had spent in London, and ten +years is a good piece out of one's life. They left me a book with the +names of all the "signataires." W. was much pleased, and I fancy it was +rather an unusual demonstration. One of these days, when Francis's wife +wears it, it will be a historic jewel. After all the company had gone +the secretaries stayed on a little while. I think they are all sorry we +are going, and they certainly regret W. as a chief. They all say he is +so absolutely just. + + #Albert Gate#, + Monday, March 27, 1893. + +We walked about in the Row this morning. It was cold and raw, not many +people. We dined at the Italian Embassy in the evening with Tornielli. +The Comtesse is at Naples with her niece, the young Marquise Paulucci, +who has just had a fine boy. The dinner was small, mostly colleagues. We +sat after dinner in the red drawing-room, which is very picturesque--a +fine old carved chimney, enormous, and beautiful old red silk hangings +just faded enough to give an old-world look. He has brought quantities +of things from his palace in Italy. Lincoln was there. He knows who his +successor is--Mr. Bayard. We don't know ours. + + #Albert Gate,# + March 29, 1893. + +Princess Mary and Princess May had promised to come once to tea before I +left and they named to-day. I asked very few people--Duchess of St. +Albans, Ladies Arran, Randolph Churchill, Hilda, and some men, Deym, +Tornielli, Mensdorff, George Arthur, etc. Lady Randolph is very musical, +plays extremely well and is very kind to all the artists. I asked Mlle. +Jansen (Swedish), who sang quite beautifully--a fine voice, such a ring +in it. She is going to America, and I am sure she will have a great +success. Both Princesses were as cordial and nice as possible, said it +would seem strange not to see me about everywhere any more. "Of course +you will come back to London," Princess Mary said; "but it can never be +the same thing--you will be a visitor; now you are living your life with +us, and London is your home." Princess May looked very pretty, and so +bright that I fancy her engagement is settled--everyone seems to think +so. I didn't say anything to her, but when I parted from Princess Mary +at the foot of the stairs I couldn't help saying that I heard that very +soon all her friends would be able to congratulate her, and that as I +was going I would like to think that very happy days were before her. +She said "I hope so--I think so," and kissed me. At the door she turned +and said, "I wonder when I shall have tea and music again in these +rooms. I shall always think with pleasure of the French Embassy." We had +a farewell dinner at our cousin's, Mrs. Mostyn's. Lord Herschell was on +one side of me and talked a great deal about the banquet at the Mansion +House. He said W.'s English was so good, too classical if anything; said +he would like very much to hear him speak in French and at the Tribune. +He couldn't imagine such a quiet speech and manner in the fiery French +Chamber. I told him the Senate was much more sedate than the Chamber +(consequently much less amusing) and that he would often hear a +perfectly quiet academic speech there. + + #French Embassy#, + Good Friday, March 31, 1893. + +We went to the afternoon service at St. Paul's, where the anthem was +beautiful. There were a great many people, a great many men following +the service, and a great many also walking about looking at the tombs +and tablets. + +We really have not a moment these last days. I shall go over a little +before W., about the 12th of next month. We have had all sorts of +leave-takings. The Empress Frederick received us the other day--always +charming and interesting, but still talking of her visit to Paris, which +she can't get over. She said to me, "I would have liked so much to see +you in Paris, in your own house. M. Waddington promised me a dinner with +all your clever men." "I should have been much pleased and honoured, +Majeste; perhaps a little later he may have that pleasure--but I'm +afraid----" + +We had all a pleasant visit to Princess Louise at Kensington, who said +she would certainly let us know when she came to Paris--I think she +often comes. We went to White Lodge, of course, where they all look so +happy I can't help thinking that the marriage is arranged. We also went, +for a farewell cup of tea, to Alma Tadema, who receives once a week in +his beautiful studio. He is going to send me an engraving of one of his +lovely Greek pictures. His atelier is most picturesque and full of +interesting things. He has a set of panels painted by all his artist +friends which are gems. He is very attractive himself--so simple. There +were a good many people there. + +We had a dinner and party (music) last week at Lady Wimborne's. Their +entertainments are always successful. The house (Hamilton House) is one +of the best in London. Lord B., a great friend of W.'s, took me to get +an ice at the buffet, and was deploring W.'s departure. "Such a pity +that Waddington had gone back to France after graduating so brilliantly +at Cambridge. He would certainly have made the same career in England, +and would have been Premier in England, so much better than being +Premier in France"--a truly British sentiment (what makes their +strength, perhaps), but naif. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #Albert Gate#, + Easter Sunday, April 2, 1893. + +My last Easter in London, a beautiful bright day. Henrietta, Francis, +and I walked down to Westminster Abbey in the morning. It was crowded, +as it always is--Easter is such a splendid service--the fine old Easter +hymn always the same, with the Hallelujah echoing through the vaults and +arches. We had a small dinner in the evening--Jusserand (who had come +back to see his friends, of whom he has thousands here), the La +Villestreux, the personnel, and a few young people in the evening. I +wore my jewel, which they all found very handsome. + + #French Embassy#, + April 9th. + +Henrietta, Francis, and I went to the Temple Church this morning. It is +a grand old place, right in the heart of London. We were met at the door +by one of the "benchers," who gave us very good places and took us all +over the church and various halls after service. Francis had never been +there and was wildly interested, particularly in the tombs of the old +Crusaders with their crossed legs. We lunched with quite a party of +benchers and their wives in the "parlement" room, a charming room +looking out on the river and across a garden filled with roses, streams +of sunlight pouring in at all the windows. They told us the War of the +Roses, white and red, was planned in those gardens, and asked us if we +remembered the old lines: + + "If this red rose offend thy sight, + It in thy bosom wear; + 'Twill blush to find itself less white + And turn Lancastrian there." + +Yesterday we had a handsome "Diner d'Adieu" at the Turkish Embassy, +principally colleagues. Lincoln was there--he too is going, his wife +left yesterday. They have raised the United States Legation here to an +Embassy, and I hope they will raise the salaries. No one is more asked +out or has a better position here than the United States Minister. I +always remember the remark of one of our colleagues, Baron Solvyns, who +had been long in London and knew it well. We were talking one day about +the Corps Diplomatique, small Powers, Embassies, etc., and were +discussing who was the most important Ambassador in London. Solvyns +said, "There is no doubt about it, the American _Minister_ is the first +Ambassador in London." + + #French Embassy#, + April 12, 1893. + +My last letter from Albert Gate, Dear. Yesterday all our small things, +silver, house linen, etc., departed. The packing seemed well done. We +put everything that was to go in the ballroom (little Dresden figures, +glasses, silver ornaments), nothing packed, all spread out, on tables. A +man came and made an inventory, packs everything in a great van that +comes to the door and arrives at our door in the Rue Dumont d'Urville, +where equally everything is taken out and unpacked. He says nothing will +be broken. It is certainly a very easy way of moving, and I shall be +anxious to see how they arrive. The Florians had their furniture taken +over like that, and I think one table was a little demantibulee. We +leave to-morrow; we being Henrietta and I. W. stays some little time +still. I take over all the French servants, both coachmen, and my +victoria and horses, as I must settle myself for the spring in the Paris +house. W. sends over one of the secretaries, M. Lecomte, with us, and +the colleagues are all coming to the station to say good-bye. The rooms +look melancholy to-night, so many things gone; piano of course and all +books and small tables, screens, etc.--all the gros mobilier belongs to +the Embassy. We sat some time talking, just we three: W., Henrietta, and +I, after dinner. W. has just been named one of the Directeurs du Canal +de Suez. I think he will find plenty of occupation when he gets back. + + #Paris, 31, Rue Dumont d'Urville,# + April 16, 1893. + +Here I am, Dear, back in my little salon, writing at my table in the +corner by the window, and rather distracted by the quantities of +carriages passing. There is so much more movement in the street than +when we left ten years ago, and I have got accustomed to such a quiet +bedroom and salon. All our living rooms (except the dining-room) at +Albert Gate gave on the Park, so we never heard the rattle and noise of +carriages over pavements, and as no cabs nor camions are allowed in the +Park the passing never disturbed us. We came over very comfortably on +Thursday. All our colleagues were at the station to see us off, and I +think they are sorry to say good-bye. We found our voiture-salon filled +with flowers. Sir George Arthur and S. came over with us. It was very +cold and very rough. All the men disappeared at once, but Henrietta and +I remained on deck and were quite happy, well wrapped up with rugs, and +tarpaulins stretched in front of us to keep out the wet. Lecomte had +arranged our lunch in the private room of the buffet at Calais (where W. +and I always breakfasted when we came over) and it was comfortable to +see a bright fire. I am ashamed to say that the ladies of the party eat +a very good breakfast. The men looked rather white, and certainly were +not good "fourchettes" at that meal. At Dover we had found Lord William +Seymour in uniform, with his aide-de-camp, wife and daughter waiting for +us. He took me on the boat, and to the cabin, where there were more +flowers, and stayed until the last moment, giving the captain all manner +of instructions for my comfort, and particularly to see that my cabin +was warm, with plenty of rugs, etc. I never went near it. I think +Adelaide and Bonny had a very comfortable time there. Francis met us at +the Gare du Nord, much pleased to have us back. We went to Henrietta's +to dine. I was glad to come home directly after dinner and go to bed. +Well, Dear, there is one chapter of my life closed--I wonder what the +future reserves for us. I shall be uncomfortable for a few days until my +van arrives. It left the same day we did, and the man said it would take +a week to bring the things over, but I shall not expect them for ten +days. I found quantities of cards and notes here, and Louise and +Henrietta of course will give me dinner or anything else I want until I +can get quite settled. Hubert got over only to-day. The sea was so rough +he wouldn't cross on Thursday; he waited a day at Folkestone, and +another at Boulogne, to rest the horses which had been knocked about. W. +writes that the Embassy seems absolutely empty. Still he dines out every +night (at the club when he hasn't an invitation) and will come over as +soon as he can. The house looks so small after the big rooms at Albert +Gate, and the stable and little cour minute. It sounded so familiar to +hear the carriage coming in under the voute, and also the street cries. +I daresay in a few days I shall take up my ordinary Paris life, and +London will seem a dream--like Moscow. + + + _To G. K. S._ + + #Bayreuth#, + Saturday, July 31, 1897.[12] + +We arrived Thursday evening from Nuremberg in a pouring rain, which +continued all day Friday, and detestable it was--streets crowded, +everybody's umbrella running into one and catching in your veil (really +twice in mine), mud everywhere, carriages scarce and dear. Our rooms are +comfortable, Mary de Bunsen got them for us, a good-sized salon (with a +piano), three bedrooms, and two maids' rooms. We have our early +breakfast and supper, but dine out. Our experience at the Sonne was not +very agreeable--a long, hot dining-room, quantities of hungry people and +no servants to speak of. I was rather interested in my neighbour, a +long, thin American, a Western man from Iowa I think, a school-master. +He told me he had been saving for years to get money enough "to come +across" (as he said) and hear "Parsifal." He had taught himself German +in the evenings when his class was finished. The man was in such a +quiver of delighted anticipation that it was a pleasure to see him. I +told him I was sure he would not be disappointed, as Van Dyck was to +sing "Parsifal." There were quite a number of priests at table, and one +heard a little French, but the talk was principally German and English. +We got up to the theatre easily enough, as carriages were going backward +and forward all the time. The opera, "Parsifal," was beautifully +given--Van Dyck as good as ever. I always think he stands so wonderfully +in that scene where he has his back to the public and is absorbed by all +he sees. He told me it was one of his most difficult parts. We had great +difficulty in getting our coffee between the acts, and greater still in +finding our carriage at the end. The crowd, and scramble, and mud were +something awful. + +[12] Waddington died in 1894. Hence the interruption in the series of +Madame Waddington's letters from 1893 until 1897. + + Friday, August 6th. + +We are leaving this afternoon, having had an enchanting week. Monday, +Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, the whole Ring beautifully given. All the +music is racing through my brain, from the lovely wave chorus of the +swimming Rhine maidens to the magnificent end of the "Goetterdaemmerung" +with all the different motifs worked in. They played the funeral march +of "Siegfried" splendidly. It is a curious life one leads here. In the +morning everybody walks about the town--the streets are narrow and it is +amusing to be hailed from windows over small shops, grocers', bakers', +watchmakers', by friends who are lodging there. About 3 a sort of +restless excitement is in the air and one sees a long procession +mounting the hill to the Opera House, everyone absorbed by the one idea. +There are quantities of people we know. I didn't go and see Mdme. Wagner +this time, as Henrietta and Pauline don't know her. Her evenings, the +off night, are very interesting. One sees all the distinguished people +of any kind at her house, all the artists, critics, etc. Of course no +one ventures to criticise the _music_--merely the execution. + + #Meingeningen, Biebrich,# + Sunday, August 15, 1897. + +I have been here two or three days and am glad to have some quiet hours +in the garden after the fatigue and excitement of Bayreuth. Four Wagner +operas in succession is a strain on one's brain (not that I wouldn't do +it straight over again this week if I could, but one wants the rest +between). The crowd at Bayreuth the day we started was something +wonderful, as of course everyone leaves after their serie--there is +nothing to do or see in the town. At Nuremberg, too, the scramble to get +something to eat was funny, as there were two courants, all of us +leaving Bayreuth, and just as many more arriving to take our places. +There is always a crowd at the Nuremberg station, though they have +multiplied little buffets outside the regular salles d'attente with +coffee, beer, sausages, etc. We were late all along the line, and again +there was such a crowd at the big Frankfort station that I could not get +my trunks in time to take the first train for Mosbach--however, I +arrived finally and was pleased to see Heinrich's broad, good-humoured +face, and we drove at once to the house, where Mary was waiting for me +with supper. We talked a little, but even that took us on to 2 o'clock, +as it was after midnight when I arrived. + +We have seen various people, and made expeditions to Wiesbaden. We wrote +to the Empress Frederick's lady-in-waiting the other day (Countess +Perponcher, whom Mary knows very well) to say that I was here near +Cronberg, and would be so pleased if the Empress would receive me. The +answer has just come, asking me to lunch at Cronberg on Wednesday. I am +delighted to go--first to see the Empress, and then to see the house, +which is filled with beautiful things. The Empress has travelled so +much, and been so much in Italy, and has bought all sorts of treasures. + + Tuesday, August 17, 1897. + +Last night we went to the opera at Wiesbaden. It was "Hansel and +Gretel," beautifully given--the orchestra very good and the angel scene +with all the angels coming down a sort of ladder and circling round the +sleeping children quite exquisite. It was a funny contrast to the London +and Paris Opera. Mary and I started off about 5.30 in ordinary summer +dress--foulard and voile. We went to the great confectioner at Wiesbaden +for our tea and cakes, and a little before 7 walked across to the Opera. +There we took off our hats and jackets, hung them up on a little peg, +found our seats without any trouble, and had a very pleasant evening. +The entr'actes are much shorter than in France, so that we were out a +little before 10. The drive home was lovely on a bright starlight summer +night; about three-quarters of an hour. It was such an easy, independent +way of going, without the complications of a man to go with us, servant +to take our cloaks, etc. I often think I should like to live a little in +Germany, there is so much that I like in the country, and life seems so +easy, though I believe German women wouldn't say so. They all seemed +weighed down with cares, and apparently all with very small incomes. I +wonder if you have read Hauptmann's "Versunkene Glocke"; I am fascinated +by it. It was a little difficult reading at first on account of the sort +of patois, but it is a wonderful book, so weird and full of sentiment. I +will finish my letter after our day at Cronberg. + + Thursday, August 19, 1897. + +We had a charming day; I am so glad we went. We started a little after +ten for Frankfort, where we had a wait of 20 minutes. I wore my black +voile and a little black and jet toque in which I put a white aigrette, +and white gloves, so as not to be too black. The trajet is short from +Frankfort to Cronberg, about an hour. We found two carriages (rather +pretty victorias in wood natural colour and cushions the same +colour--they looked very chic and country) and tall powdered footmen in +the black and silver Imperial livery. There were two or three people in +the second carriage whom I didn't recognise at first, but made out when +we arrived. Val Prinsep, the artist, and his wife, a very pretty woman, +and a German lady, also an artist I think. The Castle is not far from +the station, and Cronberg (the town) is rather picturesque. The house is +large--nothing particular in the way of architecture, but stands well in +a fair-sized park. We were received in a fine hall, with pictures, +carvings, and plenty of old furniture. Countess Perponcher and Baron +Reischach received us. Count Seckendorff was not there, which I +regretted, as I like him very much and should have been glad to see him +again. Countess Perponcher took us to a small room on the ground floor +where we left our parasols, wraps, etc., and then we went through one or +two handsome rooms into a large salon where the company was already +assembled. Lady Layard and her niece were staying in the house, also +Prince Albert Solms (our old friend) with his wife. He is very ill, poor +fellow, and can hardly get about. Some English friends arrived from +Hombourg--Lady Cork, Lord Algy Lennox. About 1.30 the Empress +came--always the same charming manner, and always her sad eyes. I +thought she looked thinner and paler perhaps, but not ill. We went +immediately to luncheon--the Empress first, alone, all of us following. +Baron Reischach sat opposite to her, between me and Lady Cork. The talk +was easy, the Empress talking a great deal. Val Prinsep too did his +share, and Lady Cork is always clever and original. After luncheon we +went back to the big drawing-room and looked at some of the beautiful +things. Angeli's last portrait of the Empress had just come and had been +placed (temporarily only) in a corner where the light was not very good. +It is a fine picture--the Empress all in black with her splendid pearl +necklace, seated on a sort of carved throne, or high-backed chair--all +the shading dark, the only bit of colour the yellow ribbon of the Black +Eagle. It is a striking picture and very like her, but so inexpressibly +sad. She called each one of us in turn to come and sit by her. She spoke +very warmly of W. to me, and asked me if I didn't regret my London life, +and if I did not find it very difficult to settle down in France after +having lived ten years in London, "the great centre of the world." It is +curious how universal that feeling is with English people (and "au +fond," notwithstanding all the years she has lived in Germany, the +Empress is absolutely English still in her heart). They think that life +in England--London--spoils one for everything else. I told her I didn't +think I was to be pitied for living in Paris--after all, my boy was a +Frenchman and all his interests were in France. She asked about Francis, +how old he was, and couldn't believe that I was going back to feter his +21 years, and thought it was fortunate for him that his early education +had been in England. + +[Illustration: The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the +Black Eagle +The last portrait of the Empress by the artist Angeli] + +We talked a little about French literature--I think she reads +everything--and she asked about Bayreuth, were there many French people +there. I told her the Director of the Grand Opera, among others, who +wants to have the "Meistersinger" in France, but Mdme. Wagner is rather +unwilling--the choruses, she thinks, are too difficult either to +translate or to sing with the true spirit in any other language. The +Empress said, "She is quite right; it is one of the most difficult of +Wagner's operas, and essentially German in plot and structure. It +scarcely bears translation in English and in French would be impossible; +neither is the music, in my mind, at all suited to the French character. +The mythical legend of the Cycle would appeal more to the French, I +think, than the ordinary German life." I daresay she is right. When she +congedied me I talked some little time to Prince Solms, Reischach, and +others. Then it was getting time for us to go, as we had to take the +4.30 train back to Frankfort. I was standing by the window, from which +there is a fine open view over plain and woods, when the Empress came up +to say good-bye. She supposed I was going back to France, where I would +find my boy. "You are very fortunate to have him still with you; it +gives such an interest to your life." She kissed me, and then said +sadly, "_My_ task is done--I am quite alone." I watched her go out of +the room, across the hall, and up the great staircase, with her long +black dress trailing behind, alone--as she said. It must be an awful +solitude for her--living there in her beautiful house, filled with art +treasures of all kinds, and with friends near all summer at Hombourg, +Wiesbaden, etc., who are only too happy to go to her--but her real life +is over, and she is as far away from Germany and the throbbing pulse of +the nation as if she were a cloistered nun. + +The Val Prinseps came away with us, and we made a bout de chemin +together until they branched off to Hombourg. He has quite the same idea +of the Empress; says "elle se ronge," that she had always had such +aspirations and wanted to do so much for the intellectual life of +Germany. Mary and I got to Frankfort in good time, and home for dinner. +We were glad to prowl about in the garden after dinner, when it was +deliciously cool and the air heavy almost with the scent of roses, of +which she has quantities. We saw the Rhine and the lights of Mayence in +the distance. I suppose this place too I shall never see again, as I +think Mary has made up her mind to sell Meingeningen. I think she will +settle in Ireland if she can get the old Townshend place where she was +one summer. It is ideal, close on the sea, with a splendid park rising +up behind the Castle, but will be a great change for her. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #South Pavilion, West Cowes#, + August 9, 1900. + +We are becoming accustomed, Dear, to the wind and rain and a general +damp feeling. I don't think I have been really dry since we left Paris. +I live in my serge dress and a waterproof. I should have been quite +comfortable if I could have changed with the other one, but Bessie +Talleyrand is disporting herself in it. When we arrived we found +everyone in mourning for the Duke of Edinburgh, the first days not so +marked, but since the Osborne has arrived with the Prince and Princess +on board one sees nothing but black, and Bessie was much disgusted, +having only blue. The steam launches and boats go all day between the +yachts and the shore. Everyone, men and women, wears those remarkable +yellow mackintoshes; you can't tell them apart, and the boats look as if +they were loaded with great yellow "ballots." The two American yachts, +Nahma, Mrs. Goelet, and Itwana, Mr. Armour, are splendid, enormous +steamers and beautifully kept. Yesterday after lunch Bessie and I +started in the wind and rain to drive over to Osborne and write +ourselves down for the Queen. I am afraid I sha'n't see her, which will +be a great disappointment to me; but the ladies here tell me she is much +affected by the Duke of Edinburgh's death, and after all, the Prince has +only just got back from his funeral. The drive through Cowes is not very +interesting, through dirty, smelly little streets; but once over the +ferry (which one crosses in a boat large enough to take the Queen's +carriage with four horses) it is pretty enough, up a long hill with fine +trees and a few places. We didn't see the Castle, as of course we were +stopped at the gates, which were open, with a policeman standing just +inside. The park looked fine, grass and flower beds beautifully kept. We +wrote ourselves down and I left a card for the Duchess of Roxburghe, who +is in waiting. We went for tea to the Club garden, and there I saw the +Duchess of Roxburghe, who told me the Queen would certainly see me. We +dined quietly at home, rather a fancy meal, but we prefer that to going +out. There is a nice little dining-room, and Joseph waits. How he gets +on down-stairs with the three maiden ladies who run the establishment I +don't know. He doesn't speak or understand one word of English and has +never been out of France before. He went nearly mad over that remarkable +railway journey of ours across country from Eastbourne to Cowes, where +we changed about 10 times (all the luggage naturally being transferred +each time), lost all our connections everywhere and arrived at Cowes at +10.30 at night, having left Eastbourne at 2. He is much impressed with +the uncleanliness of the house, and said to me just now, "Si Madame +voyait les torchons _sales_ dont on se sert pour essuyer les assiettes +_propres_, Madame ne mangerait jamais a la maison." + + #East Cowes#, + Sunday, August 12, 1900. + +I had two notes this morning, one from Miss Knollys saying the Princess +would receive me, and one from Madame d'Arcos saying the Empress Eugenie +would like us to come to tea with her on the Thistle at 5. I had rather +hesitated about writing myself down for the Empress. I had never seen +her, and W. was in such violent opposition always to the Empire that I +never saw any of the Imperial family; but Madame d'Arcos said Bessie and +I were the only Frenchwomen at Cowes; we had been everywhere--on the +Osborne, to the Queen, etc., and it was rude not to do the same thing +for the Empress--au fond, I was rather glad to have the opportunity, as +I had never seen her. We went to the club garden after church, as I +wanted to find a friend who would lend me a steam launch to go out to +the Osborne. Lord Llangattock offered his, and also said he would take +us to the Thistle for tea, as they were going on board to say good-bye +to the Empress (they leave to-night). I wore my black and white foulard +and a big black hat with feathers (never a sailor hat), which could go, +as the day was fine and the sea smooth. The Princess was not there when +I arrived; she had gone to the service on the Victoria and Albert. Miss +Knollys appeared and we sat some time talking on deck. I was leaning +over the railing when the Royal launch arrived, and I was astounded, +after all these years (7), at the appearance of the Princess. Just the +same slight, youthful figure and light step. The Duke of York came +forward first and talked a little. He was dressed in undress admiral's +uniform and looked very well. Then the Princess came, quite unchanged. +She was simply dressed, in mourning, and looked quite as she did the +last time I saw her, when she was also in mourning (for Prince Eddie). +She kissed me, seemed pleased to see me, and we sat on two straw chairs, +under the awning on the deck, talking about all sorts of things. She +said the Duke of Edinburgh's death was a great grief to them. They were +very fond of him, and it was sudden; and spoke most sadly about the +Empress Frederick, who seems to be dying, and of a cancer. It seems that +she knows quite well what is the matter with her and what is before her, +as she nursed her husband through his long malady. Isn't it awful? She +spoke about Francis, recalling his first afternoon at Marlborough House, +when he was quite small and wept bitterly when the negro minstrels +appeared. I told her he was working for diplomacy, and she said she +would be much pleased to see him when he came to London as attache. + +[Illustration: Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of Wight. +From a photograph by Broderick.] + +The Prince came and talked a little while, and also recalled the last +time we met last summer on the quai at Nuremberg, both coming from +Marienbad, and swallowing hastily a cup of very hot coffee. I thought he +looked grave and preoccupied. He talked a little about Cowes. He said he +never remembered such a bad week--awful weather and few yachts. He was +very complimentary about the two big American yachts, Itwana and Nahma; +said he had never seen the Nahma, which he regretted, but he didn't know +Mrs. Goelet--did I? "Oh yes, very well, ever since she was a child, and +her mother and father before." I was sure she would be very pleased to +receive them. The Prince said they were in such deep mourning that they +had been on no yacht, and he hoped there would be no party. I said Mrs. +Goelet herself was in deep mourning. After some consultation with the +Princess they said they would like to go on board to-morrow morning at +12 o'clock (they leave early Tuesday morning), and I promised to speak +to Mrs. Goelet. + +He was amused when I said I liked the "Japs" so much, as he rather +invented them. They came to sing to him one summer when he was ill at +Cowes and on his yacht all the time. There are four people, three women +and a man (a Frenchman), all masked, the women in pretty Japanese +dresses and the man in ordinary clothes. One woman accompanies at the +piano by heart, and extremely well; the other two and the man sing and +dance--dancing very moderate--a sort of "walk around," but the singing +very good; all English except one or two little French songs the man +sings alone. One of their favourite ditties, "Mary housemaid," always +brings down the house. It is just the sort of thing that would have +amused us in our young days when we used to play and sing by heart and +invent steps. The women are very graceful--I don't know if they are +pretty, as one never sees their faces--and the man extraordinary, very +amusing and never vulgar. + +I think I must have been a long time on the yacht, and nothing could be +more gracious and sympathetic than the Princess. She told me the Queen +would certainly receive me. I hadn't more than time to get back where +Bessie and Borghese were very hungry waiting for luncheon, and to start +again at 4; this time with Bessie and the Llangattocks for the Thistle. +We were received by Madame d'Arcos, Mlle. Darauvilliers, and M. Rambaut. +They told us the Empress had a cold and was very hoarse; had been +forbidden by the doctor to come on deck, and also to talk, but that she +would receive us in the cabin. We went down almost immediately, preceded +by Madame d'Arcos, who said we must not stay long, as the Empress ought +not to talk. She was standing in her cabin, still a handsome, stately +figure, with beautiful brow and eyes, and charming manner, more animated +than I had imagined. She was very well dressed in black. She made us sit +down and talked herself a great deal, always about Paris, the Bassanos +(speaking most warmly of the Duke), d'Albuferas, and various mutual +friends. She knew Francis was to work for diplomacy, and said she could +wish him nothing better than to walk in his father's footsteps. We were +afraid we were tiring her, as she talked all the time. Twice the "dame +d'honneur" appeared, but she waved her away. When she finally dismissed +us she said "Je ne dirai pas adieu, mais au revoir"--regretted very much +that she could not come on deck and have tea with us, but that we must +certainly stay. We had a pleasant half hour talking with the others, and +then there came a message from her begging that we would take her launch +and cruise about in the harbour. I accepted gladly, as I wanted to +communicate with the Nahma and didn't exactly know how to manage. The +French ladies too wished to see the American yacht, so off we started in +the Empress's launch. It seemed funny after all these years to be +suddenly thrown with the Empress and her suite and careering about in +her launch. Mrs. Goelet was not on board, but the steward took the +visitors all over the yacht, and I discovered Mrs. Warren and told her +that the Prince and Princess would like to go on board to-morrow--she +said she was quite sure her daughter would be very happy to see them. I +found a note from the Duchess of Roxburghe when I got home, saying that +the Queen would receive me to-morrow at 4.30 at Osborne, so my day will +be full, as I told Mrs. Goelet I would come to the Nahma to present her +to the Prince and Princess. + + + _To H. L. K._ + + #East Pavilion, Cowes, Isle of Wight#, + Monday, August 13, 1900. + +Well, Dear, I am just back from Osborne. I have the salon all to myself, +Bessie and Borghese are out, and I will write you all about my audience +while it is fresh in my memory, but I must begin at the beginning and +tell you about the Royal visit to the Nahma, which went off very well. A +little before twelve Mr. Warren, Mrs. Goelet's brother, came for us and +we went off at once to the yacht. The Royal party arrived very +punctually, Prince and Princess, Duke and Duchess of York, Princess +Victoria, and various gentlemen. They were all delighted with the yacht, +particularly the Duke of York, who saw everything. He called an officer +of the Osborne to see some arrangement of signals which it seems is +wonderful, and said they had nothing so perfect in the Royal Yacht. Mrs. +Goelet did the honours very well and simply, receiving the Princes at +the gangway, with her son and daughter on each side of her, a pretty, +graceful figure in her plain black dress. I remained on board to lunch +after the Princes departed, and they sent me ashore at 2.30 as I had +just time to dress and go to Osborne. + +I started again a little before 4, wearing my black taffetas trimmed +with lace and a tulle bonnet and white aigrette (quite costume de +ville--I could not go to the Queen in a serge skirt and big hat). I took +Joseph with me in plain black livery. We arrived quite in time, as there +was no delay at the ferry this time, and the large gates were open, the +man making a sign to us to drive in. There were two or three policemen +standing near the gate and in the park. The park is pretty--not very +large but beautifully green, and as we got near the house, quantities of +flowers--a mass of colour. The house is not handsome--rather imposing, a +large grey stone house with two wings, and flower-beds close up to the +windows. Three or four footmen in plain black livery were waiting in the +hall, and they took me at once upstairs to the ladies' drawing-room--a +nice room at the side of the house not looking out to sea. The Duchess +of Roxburghe was waiting for me, and we talked about fifteen minutes. +Then came a Highland servant saying, "Her Majesty was ready to receive +_Lady_ Waddington." The Duchess and I went downstairs, walked through +various galleries, and stopped at a door where there was no servant. The +Duchess knocked, the Queen's voice said, "Come in," and I found myself +in a beautiful large salon, all the windows opening on the sea. The +Queen, dressed as usual in black, was seated in the middle of the room +facing the door. I had barely time to make one curtsey--she put out her +hand and made me sit down next to her. She spoke to me first in French +(just as she always did when I was at the Embassy--to mark, I suppose, +that I was the French Ambassadress), "Je suis tres heureuse de vous +revoir--I think we can speak English--how much has happened since we +met"; and then we talked about all sorts of things. I thought she looked +extremely well--of course I couldn't tell if her sight was gone, as she +knew I was coming and I sat close to her. Her eyes were blue and clear, +and her memory and conversation quite the same. She thanked me for my +letter; said the Duke of Edinburgh's death was a great blow to her. It +was so sudden, she had not thought him ill. She had lost three children +all very dear to her, and it was hard at her age to see her children go +before her. She spoke at once (so moderately) of the caricatures and +various little incidents that had occurred in France. I said I was very +glad to have an opportunity of telling her that everybody in France +(except for a few hot-headed radicals and anti-English) was most +indignant at such gratuitous insults not only to the Queen but to a +woman. She said she quite understood that--that wherever she had been in +France everybody had done what they could to make her stay happy and +comfortable; that she never could forget it, and hoped the French nation +felt that--also that she would never dream of holding the country +responsible for the radical press, but "my children and my people feel +it very deeply." We talked about the King of Italy's murder (she was +much pleased with the expression in one of the Italian papers "e morto +in piedi") and she expressed great sympathy for Queen Margherita--"She +is fond of Italy and is always thinking and planning what she can do for +the people." We also talked about the Shah and the attentat in Paris. I +said that left me rather indifferent, but she answered instantly, "You +are quite wrong--it is the principle, not the person, that is attacked +in those cases." I then remarked that it was a great pity, I thought, +that one of those gentlemen (anarchists, not sovereigns) shouldn't be +lynched; that I believed the one thing they were afraid of was the +justice of the people. She said, "That is not a very Christian +sentiment"; but I think she didn't altogether disagree with me. She +asked me about Francis--was he working for diplomacy; and then, I don't +know exactly how, we began talking about mixed marriages. She said she +didn't think religion ought to be an invincible obstacle. I said I +thought with her, but that French Protestants were very strict. I told +her it had been said that my husband, who was certainly a very +large-minded man in most things, was really narrow about Catholics. She +said, with such a charming smile, "Oh, I can't think M. Waddington was +ever narrow about anything, I always thought him one of the most +large-minded, just men I ever knew." I must say I was pleased, and W. +always felt that for some reason or another he was sympathetic to her. +We talked a little about the Empress Frederick; she said the last news +was better, but she evidently didn't want to pursue the subject. We +talked on some little time, and when she finally dismissed me, she said, +"I hope you will come back to England, and whenever you do I shall be +very glad to see you." She shook hands--I backed myself to the door, +opened it, and there found the Highland servant, who took me back to the +drawing-room where the Duchess of Roxburghe was waiting. She suggested +that we should go for a turn in the garden, and when she went to get her +hat I looked about the room, which is quite plainly furnished--a grand +piano, comfortable furniture, not pretty, and no particular style. + +We walked about the gardens a little, which are pretty, such quantities +of flowers, and had tea under the trees. Two of the ladies came +out--Mrs. Grant and Miss Harbord. They were very anxious to know if I +found the Queen changed after seven years, but I really can't say I did. +My impression is that they find her older. They say she felt the Duke of +Edinburgh's death very much, and that she is very worried about the +Empress Frederick, though she doesn't talk much about her. It was lovely +sitting under the trees, so cool and quiet after the noise and glare of +Cowes. All the people bowed as we drove home through Cowes. I think they +took Joseph in his black livery for one of the Queen's servants. + +I must tell you that Joseph and Elise are also moving in high society. +Joseph came with a most smiling face to me Saturday night to say that +one of his friends was chef on the Empress's yacht (the Thistle) and had +invited them to breakfast on Sunday on the yacht. I said they could go, +and when Bessie and I were going to church we saw them start--he in the +regulation Cowes blue serge costume (_not_ the short, very short, Eton +jacket which is the dress attire of the Club men) and yellow shoes, and +she in my old purple foulard, with a very nice little toque. A very +smart little boat was waiting for them. + +Now, my Dear, I must stop, as I am exhausted, and a perfect Mrs. +Jellyby, papers flying all over the place, as I am writing at the open +window, and ink all over me, fingers, hair, etc. I can't say, as Madame +de Sevigne did, "ma plume vole," for mine stops and scratches, and makes +holes in the paper, and does everything it can to make my writing +difficult. I wonder why I hate it so--I do--as soon as I sit down to my +writing-table I want to go out or play on the piano, or even crochet +little petticoats--anything rather than write. I suppose I shall never +see the Queen again--at her age it isn't very likely, especially if I +wait another seven years without coming over. I am glad she received me, +it was a great pleasure. + + + _Note._ + + #Paris, 29, Rue Auguste Vacquerie#, + Dimanche, 29 Decembre, 1901. + +Of course I never saw the Queen again. She began to fail that same +autumn (1900) after her return home from Balmoral, and died at Osborne +the 22d of January, 1901--a beautiful death, painless, sleeping away and +all her children and grandchildren with her. It isn't only the Queen who +has disappeared--it is the century. England will enter on a new +phase--but it must be different from the chapter that has just closed. + + + + INDEX + + +d'A----, Countess, 235 + +A----, Lady, 214, 235 + +A----, Lord, experience on the House of Lords boat at the Naval Review, + 264, 265 + +A----, Mdme., 87, 89, 122 + +Aberdeen, Lady, 313 + +Aberdeen, Lord, 216 + +Abinger, Lord and Lady, 172 + +Adams, 234 + +Adelaide, Mlle., 7, 10 _et passim_ + +d'Agoult, 343 + +Albanesi, 234 + +Albani, 242, 243 + +Albany, Duke and Duchess of, 179; + death of the Duke, 206 + +Albert, Arch Duke and Arch Duchess, of Austria, 56; + incident in Paris, 57 + +Albert, Prince, 177; tomb, 239 + +Albert Solms, Prince, 388 + +Albert Victor, Prince, Duke of Clarence, 184, 186, 218, 237; + illness, 333; + engagement to Princess May, 333; + death, 334; + funeral, 336; + sarcophagus, 369 + +d'Albuferas, 395 + +Alexander III., Emperor of Russia, 4; + the procession to the Kremlin, 44-46; + danger from the Nihilists, 52, 53; + coronation of, 65-67; + the breakfast following the Coronation, 68-70; + the reception after the Coronation, 71-73; + at the Court Ball, 74, 75; + at the great ball at the Palace, 78; + the Fete Populaire, 82; + at the Palace ball, 86-90; + the gala dinner, 93, 94; + the revue, 102-104; + his home at Peterhof, 116, 117 + +Alexander, Prince, of Battenberg, 236 + +Alexis, Grand Duke, at the coronation of his brother, Emperor Alexander + III., 66; at the Palace ball, 86 + +Alice, Princess, of Hesse, 239 + +Amedee, King, 92 + +Amelie, Princess, of Schleswig-Holstein, 326 + +Ampthill, Lord and Lady, 17, 281, 282 + +Anne, ----, 5 + +Antrim, Lady, 310, 312 + +d'Aoste, Duc, 6; described, 91, 92, 361 + +Appert, General, 145, 148, 153 + +Appert, Madame, 153, 154; + her daughters, 154 + +d'Arcos, Madame, 395 + +Armour, Mr., 391 + +Arran, Lady, 377 + +Arthur, Sir George, 375, 377, 382 + +Ashburton, Lady, 349 + +Ashburton, Lady Louisa, 242 + +Astor, Mrs. 357 + +Augusta, Empress, 18 + +d'Aumale, Duc, 217, 303, 304 + + +Baden, Grand Duchess of, 18 + +Baldwin, Admiral, 58, 120, 142; + entertains the Waddingtons and others on his flagship, 120-123; + impressions of the Coronation, 137 + +Baldwin, Mrs., 151 + +Barrington, Mr. Eric, 329, 337 + +Bassanos, 395 + +Bayard, Mr., 377 + +Beatrice, Princess, 176, 177, 192, 195; + at the opening of Parliament, 237; + at Windsor Castle, 238, 311 + +Bedford, Duchess of, 236, 257, 280 + +Bedford, Duke of, 280, 281 + +Belgians, King of the, 249 + +Belgians, Queen of the, 256 + +Benckendorff, Colonel, 34 _et passim_ + +Berard, M., 24, 26 + +Beresford, Lord Charles, 296 + +Bernadotte, 138 + +Bernhardt, Mdme. Sarah, 135 + +Bille, Elsa de, 317, 323 + +Bille, Mdme. de, 315, 326 + +Bismarck, 15; + talks with M. Waddington, 17, 18, 21; + friction with the Empress, 268 + +Bismarck, Herbert, 243 + +Bleichroeder, 19 + +Blennerhasset, Lady, 340 + +Blumenthal's, 302 + +Boehm, 281, 282 + +Boleyn, Anne, 175 + +Bondy, M. de, 140, 142 + +Borghese, 395 + +Borthwick, Lady, 251, 271, 272 + +Boston, Lord, 218 + +Boulanger, 267, 268, 296 + +Bowen, Judge, 367 + +Braganza, Duchesse de, 256 + +Brandt, Mr., 163 + +Brasseys, 187 + +Brennen, Mme. and Mlle. de, 203 + +Bridge, Dr., 348 + +Brown, Mrs., 169 + +Brown, John, tablet in memory of, 239 + +Brownlows, 346 + +Bryce, Mr., 307 + +Btetju, Count, 244 + +Buccleuch, Duchess of, 237, 257 + +"Buffalo Bill," 243 + +Bulgaria, Prince of, 218 + +Buelow, 337 + +Bunsen, George de, 15, 16, 17 + +Bunsen, Mlle. Beatrice de, 285 + +Bunsen, Mary de, 386, 390 + +Burns, Walter, 295 + +Burtons, 354 + +Bury, Mlle. de, "sur Racine," 212 + +Bylandt, Comte de, at the Naval Review, 261, 265 + +Bylandt, Comtesse de, 203, 220, 222, 259, 338 + +Byng, Colonel, 252, 369 + + +C----, Lord, Indian Secretary, 252 + +Calmon, Robert, 7, 95 + +Cambridge, Duchess of, 180 + +Cambridge, Duke of, 189, 195, 201, 236, 246, 258 + +Cameron, Sir Roderick, 283, 286; + in Scotland, 287 _et seq._ + +Campbell, Mr., 207 + +Carlingford, Lord, 184 + +Canterbury, Archbishop of, 355, 356 + +Carpe, 272 + +Carrington, Lord, 346 + +Catherine II., 90, 95 + +Cavendish, Lord Frederick, murder of, 3 + +Cecil, Lady Gwendoline, 306 + +Cecil, Lady Margaret, 218, 231, 232 + +Cecil, Lord Edward, 303 + +Chaine, Col., 337 + +Chambord, Comte de, illness of, 156; + death, 159, 170 + +Charles IX., 143 + +Charles Louis, Arch Duke and Arch Duchess, of Austria, 88, 93, 96; + at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 66; + at the Court ball, 74; + drive with the Empress at the revue, 103 + +Chemin, 11 + +Chesterfield, Lord, 219 + +Chetwode, Sir George and Lady, 172 + +Chigi, Marchesa, 358 + +Childers, Mr., 182 + +Christian, Prince, of Schleswig-Holstein, 266, 368 + +Christian, Princess, 254, 266, 368 + +Churchill, Lady, 192 + +Clanwilliam, Lady, 315 + +Clark, Stanley, 363 + +Colocotroni, Mlle., 71 + +Compans, Ternaux, 125 + +Connaught, Duchess of, 368 + +Connaught, Duke of, 236; + at the Jubilee Te Deum, 249; + as a soldier, 258 + +Constantine, Grand Duchess, 60, 61, 80, 87, 88, 94 + +Constantine, Grand Duke, 60, 61 + +Corcelle, Francois de, 7, 13, 95 + +Cork, Lady, 388 + +Cork, Lord, 197 + +Correa, Brazilian Minister, 270 + +Corti, Ambassador, 239, 240 + +Courcel, Mdme. de, 16, 18, 20, 21, 159, 162 + +Courcel, M. de, 14, 15, 159, 162 + +Coutouly, M., 125, 127 + +Coventry, Lord, 279, 357 + +Cowell, Sir John, 191, 192 + +Cranborne, Lady, 306 + +Cranborne, Lord, 255 + +Cumming, Jean Gordon, 235 + +Curzon, Lord and Lady, 310 + + +D----, Count, Austrian Ambassador, 236 + +Dalhousie, Lord, 192, 193 + +Darauvilliers, Mlle., 395 + +Deichmann, Baron, 268, 344 + +Deichmann, Baroness Hilda, 208, 222, 253; + described, 210 + +Deichmann, Elsa, 317 + +Deichmann, Hilda, 254, 255, 321 + +Deichmann, Wilhelm, 351 + +Delamere, Lady, 354 + +Delawarr, Lord and Lady, 201 + +Denmark, Crown Prince of, 305 + +Denmark, King of, 249 + +Derby, Lady, reception at home of, 210, 211; + entertains at Knowsley, 228-232 + +Derby, Lord, 218, 231, 232 + +Deroulede, 314 + +Deym, Bianca, 317, 318, 320 + +Deym, Countess, 315, 329 + +Dolgourouky, Prince, 96 + +Dubois, Marie, 203 + +Dudzeele, Countess, dances with the Emperor at the Court ball, 74 + +Dufferin, Lord and Lady, entertain at Walmer Castle, 358-360; + rank, 371 + +Duncan, 287 + +Dupoutet, 347 + + +Eames, Miss, 295, 314 + +Edinburgh, Duchess of, 88, 103, 192, 200, 203 + +Edinburgh, Duke of, 6, 45, 93, 103, 203, 236, 254; + daughters, 249; + at the Jubilee Te Deum, 249; + death, 391, 393 + +Edward, Prince, of Saxe-Weimar, 203, 357 + +Edwardes, Gay, 317, 318, 336 + +Edwardes, Henry, 319 + +Edwardes, Mrs., 323 + +Erard, 320 + +Erroll, Lady, 176 + +Esher, Lord, 242 + +d'Estournelles, 325, 328 + +d'Estournelles, Mdme., 326, 328 + +Eugenie, Empress, 266; + at Cowes, 395, 396 + +Eulenbourg, Count, 81 + +Eulenbourg, Countess, 324 + + +Falbe, Mme. de, 232, 233 + +Falbe, M. de, 232, 233, 305 + +Fawkes, Guy, confession, 242 + +Fayet, Commandant, 7 + +Fife, Duke of, 276; + engagement to Princess Louise, 301; + marriage, 305 + +Florian, Count de, 194, 207, 253, 259, 278, 283 + +Florian, Countess de, 253, 259, 262, 278, 283, 306; + at White Lodge, 341, 342 + +Forbes, 233 + +Forges, M. Blanchard de, 226 + +Francis, Miss W., 287 + +Francois d'Assises, King, 92 + +Frederick, Empress, Crown Princess, 250, 252; + described, 253; + visit to Versailles, 309; + at Windsor, 310-312, 368; + luncheonat Ferdinand Rothschild's, 314; + receives the Waddingtons, 378; + at Cronberg, 387-390; + illness, 394 + +Frederick III., Emperor, Crown Prince, 250, 251; + failing health, 254, 266, 267; + death, 282; + funeral service, 282, 283 + +Frederica, Princess, of Hanover, 204 + +Frederick Charles, Prince, 243 + +Frederick Charles, Princess, 20 + +Freeman, Violet, 321 + +Froude, J. A., 229; + on America, 231 + + +Galitzin, Prince, 49 + +Gardner, Lady Winifred, 346 + +Gayare, 242 + +Gennadius, 336 + +George II., 267 + +George, Prince, 200, 237, 337; + report of marriage to Princess May, 362 + +Gevers, Baron, 338 + +Ghika, Princess, 222 + +Giers, M. de, 58, 76 + +Gilbert, 369 + +Gille, Mdme., 107 + +Gladstone, Mr. W. E., described, 3; + versatility, 181, 182; + gives a reception, 188, 189; + dines at Mr. Murray's, 315; + age, 346; + makes his great Irish speech, 363 + +Gladstone, Mrs. W. E., 3, 189, 346; + gives a dinner for the Archbishop of Canterbury, 355, 356 + +Gladstone, Wm., 172 + +Glinka's opera, "La Vie pour le Czar," 69, 75, 80 + +Goelet, Mrs., 391; + receives the Royal party aboard the Nahma, 397 + +Gordon, "Chinese," murder of, 199 + +Goschens, 184 + +Gower, Mr. Leveson, 172 + +Grant, General U. S., death, 218 + +Grant, Mrs., 400 + +Granville, Countess, 195 + +Granville, Earl, entertains M. Waddington, 170, 171, 190, 195, 273 + +Greece, King of, 256, 260, 305 + +Greece, Queen of, 71, 77, 80, 93; + described, 72; + at the Court ball, 74 + +Greene, Plunkett, 302 + +Grey, Lady Jane, 175 + +Grieg, 273 + +Griswold, Miss Gertrude, 234 + +Grondal, Mdme., 302 + +Guillemain, M., 348 + + +Halsbury, 237 + +Hamilton, Duchess of, 236 + +Hamilton, Lord and Lady Claud, 201 + +Harbord, Miss, 400 + +Harcourt, Lady, 174; + presents Mme. Waddington to the Queen, 175, 176, 177 + +Harcourt, Sir William, 174 + +Hare, the actor, 346 + +Hartington, Lord, 199, 268, 310, 311 + +Hatzfeldt, Comte, 16, 303, 314, 325; + at Hatfield, 330, 331 + +Hawaiian Secretary, 245 + +Hayter, Lord and Lady, 183, 200 + +Henrietta ----, 10 _et passim_ + +Henry, Prince, of Battenberg, 204, 236, 368, 373 + +Herberts, Ivor, 273 + +Heretier, Grand Duke, 103 + +Herkomer, his studio and pupils, 344-346 + +Herschell, Lady, 359 + +Herschell, Lord, 366, 378 + +Heurtel, Mme., 261 + +Hoffman, Col. and Mrs., 147, 154, 155, 156 + +Hollman, 276 + +Hubert, 7, _et passim_ + +Hubert, Mdme., 5, 10 + +Huddlestone, Lady Diana, 279 + +Humlicher, Marie, 374, 375 + +Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., 37, 58, 83, 120 + +Hurlbert, Mr., 181, 182 + + +Isabella, Queen, 92 + +Ivan the Terrible, 91 + + +Jansen, Mlle., 377 + +Jaures, Admiral, 36, 94, 105; + his hospitality, 118 + +Jaures, Mdme., 36, 37, 80, 88, 117; + at the Court ball, 74; + aboard the Lancaster, 122 + +Jay, Anna, 39 + +Jersey, Lady, 187, 203; + experiences at receptions, 211 + +Jersey, Lord, 187 + +Jeune, Mr. and Mrs., 218, 266 + +Jeune, Sir Francis, 367 + +Joachim, 272 + +Johore, Maharajah of, 216 + +Jomini, M., 120 + +Joseph, 7 + +Joy, Mr., 14 + +Jusserand, J. J., 276, 277, 286, 380 + +Juteau, 191, 216 + + +Kapilani, Queen, of the Sandwich Islands, 245, 249, 255, 256 + +Karolyi, Count, 226, 240, 241 + +Karolyi, Count Victor, 240 + +Karolyi, Countess Fanny, 189, 195, 220, 240, 241 + +Karolyi, Nadine, 226 + +Kenmare, Lord, 192 + +Kergorlay, M. de, 145, 147, 155; + his children, 150, 152, 156 + +Khiva, Khan of, 75 + +Kimberley, Lord and Lady, 192 + +King, Rufus, 179 + +Kleeberg, Mme., 270 + +Knollys, Miss, 179, 184, 320, 363 + +Knowles, 246 + +Knowles, James, 366 + +Knutsford, Lord, 268 + +Kotchoubey, Princess, 49-51, 58, 82, 88 + +Kufstein, Count, 269 + + +Lacour, Challemel, Ministre des Affaires Etrangeres, appoints M. +Waddington Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow, 5 + +Lagrene, M., 32, 95 + +La Iglesia, M. de Casa, 220, 223, 275; + appointed Ambassador, 306 + +Langhe, Mlle. de, 285; + helps with the children's comedy, 315 _et seq._ + +Lasteyrie, 347 + +Lataings, 338 + +Lathom, Lord, 237, 252; + on the Jubilee ceremonies, 258, 259 + +Lawrence, Mrs., 148 + +Lawrence, Anna, 317 + +Layard, Lady, 388 + +Lecky, Mr., 229 + +Lecomte, M., 298, 299, 319 + +Leeds, Duke and Duchess of, 201 + +Leeven, Baron, 118 + +Leigh, Tom, 269 + +Leighton, Sir Frederick, 310 + +Lennox, Lord Algy, 388 + +Leroy, Mr., 7 + +Le Valloit, Mdme., 272 + +Levisohn, Mlle., organizes a "toy symphony," 351 _et seq._ + +Lhermite, M., 8 + +Lincoln, Mr., 340, 377, 380 + +Lind, Letty, 271 + +Linden, Countess, 85 + +Lionel, Lord, 232 + +Llangattock, Lord, 393 + +Lloyd, 276 + +Lloyd, Lady Mary, 349 + +Lomatch, M., 126 + +London, Lord Mayor and Mayoress of, 364, 365, 367 + +Londonderry, Lady, 303, 315 + +Lonsdale, Lady, 184 + +Lorne, Lord, 271, 302, 366 + +Louis Philippe, 171 + +Louise, Princess, 200, 271; + announcement of her engagement, 301; + marriage, 305; at Kensington, 379 + +Lowell, James Russell, 180, 202, 242; + death of his wife, 200 + +Lowell, Mrs., 180; death of, 200 + +Lyons, Lord, 3, 98, 183 + +Lytton, Lord, 183, 372 + + +Mackay, Mr. and Mrs., 37, 58 + +MacMahon, Marechal, 6, 7 + +Magdalen, Master of, 184 + +Malagache Embassy, 21 + +Manners, Lord and Lady John, 218 + +Mansouroff, Madame, 43 + +Margaretta, Princess, 311 + +Margherita, Queen, 399 + +Marochetti, Italian Minister, 153 + +Mary of Teck, Princess, 244, 251; + described, 275; + at White Lodge, 341, 342, 362; + opens the French bazaar, 373; + tea at Mme. Waddington's, 377, 378 + +Mary, Queen, "Bloody Mary," letter to Cardinal Pole, 242 + +Mary, Queen of Scots, portraits of, 288 + +Massanet, 295 + +Mathias, M., 134, 135, 136 + +Maud, Princess, 320, 330 + +Mavrocordato, 25 + +May, Princess, 244, 275; + engagement to the Duke of Clarence, 333; + grief for, 341, 342; + rumour of marriage to Prince George, 362, 377; + at the French bazaar, 374 + +Mazo, del, Spanish Ambassador, 368 + +Mead, Lady J., 317 + +Mecklenburg, Duke and Duchess Paul of, 271, 272, 273 + +Mensdorff, 377 + +Merindol, 348 + +Methuen, Lord, 176 + +Michel, Grand Duchess, receives Mme. Waddington, 59, 60, 87; + described, 94 + +Michel, Grand Duke, 87 + +Mitford, Mrs., 340, 342 + +Mohrenheim, M. de, Russian Ambassador, 179, 184; + at Windsor Castle, 191, 192 + +Mohrenheim, Madame de, 185, 191, 192, 193 + +Molesworth, Lady, 217 + +Moltke, 131, 154 + +Monaco, Princess of, 326 + +Monk, Mr. Charles, 172, 174 + +Monk, Miss Julia, 172, 173, 201 + +Montebello, 372 + +Montpensier, Duc de, 6, 43, 46, 93 + +Montrose, Duchess of, 203 + +Mostyn, Mrs., 378 + +Moulin, M., 125 + +Muenster, German Ambassador, 179, 180, 239 + +Murray, Mr., 315 + + +Naidillac, Marquis de, 326 + +Nannie, 352 + +Neruda, Mdme., 272 + +Newcastle, Duke and Duchess of, 306 + +Newman, 308 + +Nigra, Italian Ambassador, 37, 68, 80, 82, 97; + describes Russian society, 98; + in London, 179; + at Windsor Castle, 192; + departure for Vienna, 223 + +Noccomore, Commandant, 261 + +Nordica, 276, 284 + +Northbrook, Lord, 183 + +Northcote, Lady, 306, 314 + +Northcote, Sir Stafford, 189 + +Northumberland, Lord, 360 + + +Oborlenski, Princess, 43, 52 + +Oldenburg, Duchess of, 61, 88, 103 + +Oppenheim, Mrs., 284 + +Orleans Princes, 274 + +Orloff, Prince, 9, 53, 96, 101 + +d'Orval, M., 108 + +Ourousoff, Prince, 105 + + +P----, Lady, 213 + +P----, Lizzie, 243 + +Pahlen, Count, 49, 51, 54 + +Pahlen, Countess, 55, 58, 96 + +Palmerston, Lord, 171 + +Paris, Comte de, 159, 274, 275 + +Pasquier, Duc d'Audifret, 274 + +Patenotre, M., 135, 139; + characterises the Swedes, 140, 141; + bids farewell to the Waddingtons, 143 + +Paul, Mr., aide-de-camp, 58, 120 + +Paulucci, Marquis, 352, 377 + +Pawel-Rammingen, Baron, 204 + +Peel, Sir Robert, his daughter, 201 + +Pepys, Lady Mary, 285 + +Percy, Countess, 360 + +Perier, Mdme. Casimir, 277 + +Perponcher, Countess, 310, 314, 388 + +Persia, Grand Vizier of, 303 + +Persia, Shah of, at the Court Ball, 301; + arrival by water, 301, 302; + luncheon party at Hatfield in his honour, 302-304 + +Peter the Great, portraits of, 118, 119 + +Petiteville, 226 + +Petre, Mr. Henry, 313 + +Pfeffer, 351 + +Phelps, Edward J., American Ambassador, 238, 239 + +Phelps, Marguerite, 317 + +Phelps, Mrs., 238, 239, 247 + +Phillipe, the coiffeur, 12 + +Picolellis, 272, 275 + +Pierson, 7 + +Pina, M. de, 159, 162, 163 + +Pittie, General, 7, 24, 67, 98 + +Plunkett, Mr., 4 + +Ponsonby, Sir Henry, 176, 177, 237 + +Pontavice, 320, 326, 327 + +Pontecoulant, Comte de, 7, 10, 20 _et passim_; + death of his brother, 94; + his death, 208 + +Portland, Duke of, 202, 237 + +Pourtales, Comte Jacques de, 233 + +Poutel, Mdme. du, 373 + +Powell, Mr. Price W., 172 + +Praed, Mr., 218 + +Prince Imperial of Germany, 18, 19 + +Probyn, Sir Digby, 179, 363 + + +Quirim, Miss, 333 + + +Radziwill, 91, 162 + +Radziwill, Princess, 22 + +Rambaut, M., 395 + +Randolph Churchill, Lady, 377 + +Regnier, Arch Duke, of Austria, 259 + +Reischach, Baron, 388, 390 + +Renan, 309 + +Reszke, Jean de, 315 + +Ribot, 372 + +Richard, Mdme., 320 + +Richelieu, Duchesse de, 306 + +Richter, General, 101, 116 + +Rizzio, murder of, 288 + +Roffy, Mrs., 316, 317, 321 + +Rogers, aide-de-camp, 58, 120 + +Rogers, Canon, 297; + takes Mme. Waddington through Petticoat Lane, 298, 299; + his good work, 299, 300 + +Ronalds, Mrs., 272 + +Rosebery, Lady, 204; + gives a ball, 255 + +Rosebery, Lord, 255, 256 + +Rothschild, Ferdinand, 314 + +Rothschild, Lord, 268 + +Roustan, naval attache, 268 + +Rudolph, Prince, 247 + +Roxburghe, Duchess of, 257, 392, 398 + +Russia, Empress of, 45; + coronation of, 65-67; + at the Coronation breakfast, 67-70; + versatility as a linguist, 73; + at the Court ball, 74, 75; + at the great ball, 78; + gives a tea between the acts at the Opera, 80; + at the gala dinner, 93, 94; + drives without escort, 98; + at the revue, 103, 104 + +Rustem Pacha, 235, 330, 366 + +Rutland, Duchess of, 304 + + +Sagan, Duke of, 159 + +St. Albans, Duchess of, 377 + +St. Clair, Lady Harriet, 179 + +St. Genys, 276, 306, 315, 316 + +St. Vallier, 15, 17 + +Salisbury, Lady, gives reception, 210, 211; + entertains the Waddingtons at Hatfield, 215, 216; + luncheon party in honour of the Shah, 302-304; + on the ice, 306, 307; + gives luncheon for the German Emperor, 329-332; + desire for rest, 356; + crosses the channel, 362; + makes a speech, 376 + +Salisbury, Lord, 189; + speaks in the House of Lords, 201, 202; + at opening of Parliament, 237; + reception, 243; + entertains the Shah, 303; + and the German Emperor, 329-331 + +Sancy, M. de, 20, 159, 162 + +Sanderson, Miss, 295 + +Sanderson, Mr. Thomas, 337 + +Sandford, Mr., 143 + +Sarasate, 272 + +Saxe-Weimar, Prince Herman, 254 + +Say, Leon, 3 + +Scalchi, 242 + +Scarlett, Miss, 172, 173 + +Schimmelpenninck, M., 27, 29, 30, 58, 122 + +Schubert, 345 + +Schuster, Frank, 276 + +Schuyler, 308 + +Schweinitz, General, 39, 80, 83; + at the Coronation Breakfast, 70; + at the Court ball, 73 + +Schweinitz, Madame, 81 + +Seckendorff, Count, 310, 312, 313, 314, 337 + +Sefton, Lord, 231 + +Segur, Comte Paul de, 274 + +Serge, Grand Duchess, 256 + +Sermet, M., 125 + +Sesmaisons, Colonel Comte de, 7, 13, 15, 95 _et passim_ + +Seymour, Admiral, 89 + +Seymour, Lord William, 382 + +Seymour, Sir Francis, 202 + +Sheridan, May, 247 + +Smith, W. H., holds a political reception, 269, 270 + +Solvyns, Baron, 336, 381 + +Somaglia, Countess, 361 + +Southampton, Lady, 370 + +Soveral, Portuguese Minister, 314, 330, 331 + +Spain, King of, death of, 220 + +Spencer, Countess, 330, 369 + +Staal, M. de, Russian Ambassador, 223, 241, 310, 326; + at Hatfield,330, 331 + +Staal, Madame de, 236, 241, 323; + described, 243 + +Staal, Thekla, 226, 323 + +Stainer, Dr., 348 + +Stanhope, Lady, 18; + entertains the Waddingtons and others, 218, 219 + +Stanhope, Lord, 219 + +Stanhope, Mr. and Mrs. Edward, 218 + +Stanhope, Philip, 361 + +Stanley, Dowager Lady, 181, 182 + +Stanleys, 355 + +Struve, M. and Mdme. de, 120 + +Stewart, Lady Helen, 317 + +Stuart, Miss, 348 + +Sudely, Lord, 297 + +Suffield, Lady, 363 + +Suffield, Lord, 363 + +Sullivan, Sir Arthur, 271, 272 + +Sutherland, Duchess of, 236 + +Sweden, Crown Prince of, 93, 253 + +Sweden, King of, 142, 143 + +Sweden, Prince Royal of, 145 + +Sydney, Lord, 359 + + +Tadema, Alma, 379 + +Talleyrand, Bessie, 391 + +Tavistock, Lord, 281 + +Teck, Duke of, 236 + +Teesdale, 369 + +Tennyson, 183 + +Thenard, 284, 285; + assists producing the children's comedy, 315 _et seq._ + +Thomson, Mr., 339 + +Thornton, Lady, 37, 80, 88, 104; + at the Court ball, 74; + aboard the Lancaster, 121, 122 + +Thornton, Mary, 126 + +Thornton, Sir Edward, 40, 83, 89 + +Thornycroft, 278, 279 + +Toll, Count and Countess, 153 + +Tornielli, 352, 361, 377 + +Tosti, 272, 275, 306 + +Trebelli, 276 + +Tremouille, Charlotte de la, 230 + +Trevelyans, 355 + +Troubetzkoi, Princess Lise, 49, 115 + +Tweeddale, Lady, 201 + +Tweedmouth, Lord, 354 + + +Val Prinsep, 388, 390 + +Vannutelli, Mgr., 96, 98, 118; + visits the Lancaster, 122, 123 + +Victoria, Princess, 320, 397 + +Victoria, Queen, receives Mme. Waddington, 176, 177; + described, 177; + at Windsor Castle, 192, 193, 238, 239; + Drawing-room, 206; + holds long Drawing-room, 213, 214; + opens Parliament, 235-238; + at the Jubilee ceremonies in Westminster Abbey, 249, 250; + in the procession after the service, 250, 251; + receives at the Palace, 252, 253; + at the children's fete in Hyde Park, 254, 255; + reviews the Volunteers, 257, 258; + at the Naval Review, 260-264; + with the Empress Frederick at Windsor, 310, 311; + bids farewell to the Waddingtons, 368, 370-372; + receives Mme. Waddington at Osborne, 397-401; + death, 402 + +Villiers, 226 + +Villestreux, Mdme. de la, 364, 365, 373 + +Vinci, Comte, 350 + +Vivian, Lady, 210 + +Vivian, Lord, 151, 153 + + +Waddington, Francis, 10 _et passim_; + as an actor, 285, 315 _et seq_; + placed in a French school, 332 + +Waddington, Mme., meets Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, 3; + M. Waddington appointed Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow, to + represent France at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 4-6; + preparations for Moscow, 6-12; + arrives at Berlin, 13, 14; + impression of Berlin, 15; + visits the de Bunsens, 17, 19; + goes to the races, 18; + departure from Berlin, 22; + dines at Alexandrownow with a Hessian Prince, 23; + reaches Warsaw, 24; + describes the city, 24; + visits a chateau, 25; + the trip from Warsaw to Moscow, 26-31; + arrival at Moscow, 31, 32; + description of the Maison Klein, 32, 33; + experiences with a Court train, 36; + drives through Moscow, 37-39; + the Emperor's entrance into the Kremlin, 42-46; + received by the Empress, 47-52; + visits Princess Obolenski, 52; + goes over the palaces at the Kremlin, 54; + famous paintings and jewels in the Church of the Assomption, 54; + visits Princess Radziwill and Countess Pahlen, 55; + at the reception of the Arch Duke and Duchess Albert of Austria, 56-58; + attends reception at M. de Giers', 58; + audience with Grand Duchess Michel, 59, 60; + with the Grand Duchess Constantine, 60, 61; + with the Duchesse d'Oldenburg, 61; + and the Grand Duchess Wladmir, 61; + dines with the permanent French Embassy, 62; + the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 63-67, 70, 71; + the Coronation breakfast, 67-70; + at the presentation of felicitations to the Emperor and Empress, 71-73; + presented to the Queen of Greece, 71, 72; + appearance of the Embassies, 72, 73; + goes to the Court ball, 73-75; + dances with the Emperor and Grand Duke Wladimir, 74, 75; + the Fete Populaire, 76, 82; + gives a Russian dinner, 76, 77; + the great ball at the Palace, 77, 78; + goes shopping, 78, 95; + attends the Opera, 79, 80; + tea with the Empress, 80; + gives a diplomatic dinner, 83, 96, 99, 100; + photographing the whole establishment, 83, 84; + at the Palace ball, 85-90; + sees the Tresor, 91; + the gala dinner, 92-94; + the institution of the "Enfants Trouves," 95, 96; + gives a reception, 100, 101; + the revue at the Tribune Imperiale, 102-104; + sightseeing in Moscow, 106; + preparations for leaving Moscow, 107, 108, 109; + takes a moonlight drive to the Kremlin, 109, 110; + departure from Moscow, 111; + the journey to Petersburg, 111, 112; + description of Petersburg, 113, 114; + the Hermitage, 113, 115, 116; + "La Pointe," 114, 115; + the pictures at the Hermitage, 116, 117, 118; + makes an excursion to Peterhof, 116, 117; + dinner at the Hunts', 120; + entertained by Admiral Baldwin on board the flagship Lancaster, 120-123; + visits the Thorntons, 124, 125; + shopping in Petersburg, 126; + the voyage by steamer to Stockholm, 126-134; + description of Helsingfors, 129, 130; + Abo, the old capital of Finland, 132; + the approach to Stockholm, 134; + drives through Stockholm, 135-139; + to Drottningholm, 138, 139; + shopping in Stockholm, 141, 142; + journeys from Stockholm to Copenhagen, 144, 145; + drives through Copenhagen, 145, 147, 151, 154, 155; + visits the Historical Museum, 146; + a pleasant expedition to Tivoli, 148, 149; + the Thorwaldsen Gallery, 149; + a Swedish wedding at the Frauen Kirche, 149, 150; + the excessive heat, 150, 153, 160; + sees the treasures at Rosenburg, 152; + M. de Kergorlay's dinner, 152, 153; + departure from Copenhagen, 157; + from Korsoe to Kiel, 157, 158; + arrives at Hamburg, 158; + view of Hamburg from the lake, 161; + a moonlight drive, 163; + leaves Hamburg, 163; + arrives at Cologne, 163, 164; + returns to Paris, 165; stays at Boulogne-sur-Mur, 167; + crosses to England, 167, 168; + inspects her future home in London, 168, 169, 170, 171; + visits the Monks, 172, 173, 174; + getting settled in London, 173, 174; + presented to the Queen, 175-177; + Windsor Castle, 177, 178; + has an audience of the Prince and Princess of Wales, 178, 179; + with the Duchess of Cambridge, 180; + domestic arrangements, 180, 181; + visits the Dowager Lady Stanley, 181; + talks with Mr. Gladstone, 181 182; + politics, 183; + entertained by the Prince and Princess of Wales at Sandringham, 184-186; + attends a hunt and hunt ball, 187, 188; + at Mr. Gladstone's reception, 188, 189; + commanded to dine and sleep at Windsor, 191-194; + first Drawing-room, 194-197; + goes to the Derby, 197; + to the meet of the Coaching Club and a polo game, 197, 198; + reception at Devonshire House, 199; + dinners and routs, 199, 200; + Lady Tweeddale's dinner, 201; + at the ball of the Artillery Corps, 202; + Drawing-room, 203, 204; + sees the Queen, 204, 205; + Westminster Abbey, 205; + visits Blenheim, 209; + conference "sur Racine," 212; + long Drawing-room, 213, 214; + visits Lady Salisbury at Hatfield 215, 216; + lunches with Prince and Princess of Wales, 216; + at Lord Aberdeen's hay-making party, 216, 217; + Court concert, 217; + spends Sunday at the Stanhopes, 218, 219; + London fog, 221; + Christmas shopping, 222, 224; + farewell dinner to Nigra, 223; + celebrates Christmas, 225, 226; + impressions of a Roman Christmas, 227; + visits at Knowsley, 227, 228-232; + portraits and literary treasures at Knowsley, 229, 230; + visits the Falbes at Luton, 232-234; + St. Paul's, 234; + gives dinners, 234, 235; + attends the opening of Parliament, 235-238; + at Windsor Castle again, 238, 239; + drives to the Mausoleum, 239; + spends Sunday at the Karolyis at Clieveden, 240, 241; + defeat of the French troops at Tonkin, 241; + interesting old manuscripts at Roll's Court, 242; + Lady Ashburton's house, 242; + at the Opera, 242, 243; + visits the Tecks, 243, 244; + presented to the Queen of the Sandwich Islands, 245-247; + preparations for the Jubilee, 245, 247, 248; + arranges to see the cortege immediately after the service in + Westminster Abbey, 245-248; + the Jubilee Te Deum, 248-250; + the procession after the service, 250, 251; + the reception at the Palace, 251-253; + the children's fete in Hyde Park, 253, 254; + at the Rosebery's ball, 255, 256; + the Palace ball, 256, 257; + receives the Jubilee Medal, 257; + the Naval Review, 259-264; + aboard the Iphigenie, 261-263; + skating, 266; + funeral service for the German Emperor, 267; + at the Smiths' political reception, 269, 270; + musicales, 270-273, 276; + meets Princess Mary, 275; + sightseeing, 276-278; + christens a torpilleur, 278; + races at Ascot, 279; + visits the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, 280-282; + death of the Emperor Frederick, 282; + dines with the Lord Mayor, 283, 284; + production of a play by Berquin, 284-286; + decides to go to Scotland, 286; + the journey to Edinburgh, 287; + sightseeing in Edinburgh, 287, 288; + arrives at Oban, 288; + Scottish tartans, 289; + by sea to Arishaig, 290, 291; + stays at Inveraylort, 291-295; + returns to London, 296; + goes through Petticoat Lane with Canon Rogers, 298, 299; + the People's Palace, 300; + at the Court Ball, 300, 301; + the Shah's arrival by water, 301, 302; + the luncheon party at Hatfield in the Shah's honour, 302-304; + wedding of Princess Louise and the Duke of Fife, 305; + skates at Hatfield, 306, 307; + and at Wimbledon, 307; + attends a horse sale, 308, 309; + at Windsor, 310-313; + sees "Charlie's Aunt," 313; + luncheon with the Empress Frederick, 314; + with Lady Northcote at the Opera, 314, 315; + the children's comedy, 315 _et seq._; + formal entry of the German Emperor William II. into London, 323, 324; + reception of the Emperor and Empress, 325, 326; + Garden Party at Marlborough House, 326; + goes to the luncheon at Hatfield for the German Emperor, 328-332; + places son in a French school, 332; + sickness and death of Prince Eddie, 333 _et seq._; + visits the British Museum, 339; + visits the Tecks, 340-342; + visits "Venice," 343; + excursion to Herkomer's studio, 344-346; + opens the bazaar, 346, 347; + gives a dinner of organists, 348; + arranges a "toy symphony," 350-352; + at the Italian Embassy, 352, 377; + the Salvation Army, 353; + English women in politics, 355; + dines with the Gladstones to meet the Archbishop of Canterbury, 355, + 356; + band of the "Garde Republicaine," 357; + visits the Dufferins at Walmer Castle, 358-360; + last outings, 361; + leaves for the Tyrol, 361; + returns to England, 362; + says good-bye to Princess Mary and Princess May, 362; + hears Mr. Gladstone's speech on Ireland, 363; + farewell visits, 363, 364; + farewell dinner for M. Waddington at the Mansion House, 364-367; + last visit to Windsor, 368, 369; + last Drawing-room, 369; + farewell audience from Queen Victoria, 370-372; + at the French bazaar, 373, 374; + a musical afternoon at Mlle. Humlicher's, 374, 375; + presented with a jewel, 375, 376; + entertains Princess Mary and Princess May, 377, 378; + visits Princess Louise and Alma Tadema, 379; + Easter Service in Westminster Abbey, 379, 380; + in the Temple Church, Turkish Embassy, 380; + departure from London, 381-383; + arrival in Paris, 383; + hears the Wagner operas at Bayreuth, 384, 385; + visits Mary de Bunsen, 386; + goes to the opera in Wiesbaden, 386, 387; + received by the Empress Frederick at Cronberg, 387-390; + at Cowes, 391 _et seq._; + meets the Prince and Princess of Wales at Cowes, 393-395; + visits the Empress Eugenie, 395, 396; + aboard the Nahma, 397; + a long audience with the Queen at Osborne, 397-400 + +Waddington, Richard, 7 _et passim_ + +Waddington, M. William, report of his appointment as Ambassador to + Vienna, 4; + appointed Ambassador Extraordinary at Moscow to represent France at + the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 4-6; + personnel of the Mission, 7; + has an audience from the Emperor of Germany, 17, 19; + visits Bismarck, 17, 18, 21; + received by Emperor Alexander, 35, 36; + at the reception of the Arch Duke and Duchess Albert of Austria, + 56-58; + at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 42 _et seq._; + farewell audience with the Emperor, 99; + studies the medals at the Museum in Petersburg, 113, 115, 116, 118, + 123; + his capacity for work, 122; + visits the Ministre des Affaires Etrangeres at Stockholm, 139, 140; + received by the King of Sweden, 142, 143; + examines the medals in the Museum at Copenhagen, 146, 148, 149, 154, + 155, 156; + dines with Gladstone, 168; + entertained by Lord Granville, 170, 171; + shoots with Charles Monk, 172-174; + audience with the Prince and Princess of Wales, 178, 179; + at Windsor Castle, 191-193, 238; + goes to Paris, 198; + meets old friends, 207; + sees the Oxford and Cambridge boat race, 207; + follows Sir Walter Raleigh's example, 207, 208; + goes to Paris, 208; + talks with the Queen, 214; + shoots at Knowsley, 229; + talks with Lecky on Ireland, 229; + dislike of dancing, 274; + bids at a horse sale, 308, 309; + at Windsor, 311, 312; + dines at Mr. Murray's with Mr. Gladstone, 315; + death of his mother, _n._, 325; + at the luncheon at Hatfield for the German Emperor, 328-332; + at the funeral of Prince Eddie, 337; + talks with Lady Salisbury, 346; + given a farewell dinner at the Mansion House, 364-367; + farewell visit to Windsor, 368, 369; + Directeur du Canal Suez, 382 + +Wagner, Mdme., 389 + +Wagner, Richard, 345 + +Wagram, Princesse de, on Boulanger, 268 + +Waldemar de Danemark, Prince, 93, 98, 203 + +Wales, Prince and Princess of, 37; + receive the Waddingtons, 178, 179; + entertain at Sandringham, 184-186; + at Buckingham Palace, 195; + in House of Lords, 201; + at the ball given by the Artillery Corps, 202; + Drawing-room, 203; + visit to Ireland, 210; + at the opening of Parliament, 236-238; + at the Opera, 243; + at the Jubilee Te Deum, 249, 250; + at the children's fete, 253-255; + driving, 276; + open the Court Ball, 300, 301; + at Hatfield, 303, 304, 329-331; + at the children's comedy, 320-322; + their popularity, 327; + death of Prince Eddie, 334; + bid farewell to the Waddingtons, 363, 364; + at Cowes, 393 _et seq._ + +Warren, Mrs., 396 + +Warren, Sir Charles, 246, 247 + +Wantage, Lord and Lady, 358 + +Warsoe, M., 151, 152 + +Waru, military attache, 226, 259 + +Wellington, Lord, 358 + +Westminster, Duchess of, 274 + +White, Harry, 218, 314 + +White, Muriel, 317, 318 + +Whitehouse, Harry, 145, 147 + +Wilhemi, 345 + +William I., Emperor, gives an audience to M. Waddington, 17, 19; + death, 266; + funeral service, 267 + +William II., Emperor, as Crown Prince, 267; + State Banquet for, 323; + formal entry into London, 323, 324; + at the Opera, 325; + receives at Buckingham Palace, 325, 326; + goes to the Lord Mayor's Banquet, 327; + rides in the Row, 327; + given a luncheon at Hatfield, 328-331; + returns to Germany, 331 + +Williams, Florence, 226, 348 + +Wilson, Sir Rivers, 276 + +Wimborne, Lord, 354, 379 + +Wladimir, Grand Duchess, 61, 80 + +Wladimir, Grand Duke, at the coronation of his brother, + Emperor Alexander, 66; + at the Court ball, 74, 75; + his care for the Emperor, 77; + at the Palace ball, 86; + at the revue, 103 + +Wolff, Johannes, 270-272, 276, 314 + +Wolseley, General, 58, 89 + +Wormser, 314 + +Worontzoff, Count, 77, 80, 116 + +Wurts, George, 120 + +Wyckham, Col., 147 + +Wyndham, 286 + + +York, Duke of, 363, 393, 397 + +Yves, 190 + + +Xenia, Grand Duchess, 45 + + +Zuylen, Mdme. de, 274 + + +Transcriber's Notes: The following spelling corrections were made: + +p. 23: "I said I would come with pleassure" changed to read "I said I +would come with pleasure". + +p. 28: "generally a collection of litttle" changed to read "generally a +collection of little". + +p. 34: "they all wear red flannnel" changed to read "they all wear red +flannel". + +p. 69: "As soon the the Sovereigns had taken" changed to read "As soon +as the Sovereigns had taken". + +p. 109: "where the suppper" changed to read "where the supper". + +p. 110: "I took a last look at the black Madonnna" changed to read "I +took a last look at the black Madonna". + +p. 111: "how we managed to eat chicken and mayonnaaise" changed to read +"how we managed to eat chicken and mayonnaise". + +p. 118: "We have just come in from a pleasant dinner at the Juares" +changed to read "We have just come in from a pleasant dinner at the +Jaures". + +"Admiral Juares was very hospitable" changed to read "Admiral Jaures was +very hospitable". + +p. 142: "there are always babauds hanging over" changed to read "there +are always badauds hanging over". + +All instances of "cortege" and "cortege" were changed to "cortege". + +Small Caps denoted by "#" and Italics by "_". + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, by +Mary King Waddington + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE *** + +***** This file should be named 38825.txt or 38825.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/8/2/38825/ + +Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Wayne Hammond and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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