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+ text-align: center; +} +.small { + font-size: smaller; +} +.transnote { background-color: #ffffff; color: inherit; margin: 2em 10% 1em 10%; font-size: 80%; padding: 0.5em 1em 0.5em 1em;} +.transnote p { text-align: left;} +a.correction {text-decoration: none; border-bottom: thin dotted red; color: inherit; background-color: inherit;} +a.correction:hover {text-decoration: none;} + +/* Footnotes */ +.footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + +.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + +.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 86%; text-align: right;} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + +@media print +{ +.pagenum{ + visibility:hidden; + } +} +--> +</style> + +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, by Mary King Waddington + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Letters of a Diplomat's Wife + 1883-1900 + +Author: Mary King Waddington + +Release Date: February 10, 2012 [EBook #38825] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE *** + + + + +Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Wayne Hammond and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="transnote"> +<p>Transcriber's Note: The following spelling corrections were made:</p> + +<p>p. 23: "I said I would come with pleassure" changed to read "I said I +would come with pleasure"</p> + +<p>p. 28: "generally a collection of litttle" changed to read "generally a +collection of little"</p> + +<p>p. 34: "they all wear red flannnel" changed to read "they all wear red +flannel"</p> + +<p>p. 69: "As soon the the Sovereigns had taken" changed to read "As soon +as the Sovereigns had taken"</p> + +<p>p. 109: "where the suppper" changed to read "where the supper"</p> + +<p>p. 110: "I took a last look at the black Madonnna" changed to read "I +took a last look at the black Madonna"</p> + +<p>p. 111: "how we managed to eat chicken and mayonnaaise" changed to read +"how we managed to eat chicken and mayonnaise"</p> + +<p>p. 118: "We have just come in from a pleasant dinner at the +Juarès" changed to read "We have just come in from a pleasant +dinner at the Jaurès"</p> + +<p>"Admiral Juarès was very hospitable" changed to read "Admiral +Jaurès was very hospitable"</p> + +<p>p. 142: "there are always babauds hanging over" changed to read "there +are always badauds hanging over"</p> + +<p>All instances of "cortege" and "cortège" were changed to "cortége"</p> +</div> + +<div style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus001.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Mary King Waddington drawing." id="illus001" title="Mary King Waddington drawing."> +</a></div> + + +<div style="width:100%"><img src="images/illus002.png" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Mary King Waddington signature." title="Mary King Waddington signature."> +</div> + + +<h1>LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE</h1> + +<h2>1883-1900</h2> + +<h3>BY</h3> +<h2>MARY KING WADDINGTON</h2> + +<h3>ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS</h3> + +<h2>SMITH, ELDER & CO. LONDON</h2> +<hr> +<h3>1903</h3> + + + + +<h3>Copyright, 1903, by Charles Scribner's Sons for the United States of America</h3> +<hr> +<h3>Printed by the Trow Directory, Printing and Bookbinding Company New York, U. S. A.</h3> + + + + + +<h2>INTRODUCTORY NOTE</h2> + +<h2>BY THE COLLECTOR OF THE LETTERS</h2> + + +<p>Mary Alsop King Waddington is a daughter +of the late Charles King, President of Columbia College +in the City of New York from 1849 to 1864, and a +granddaughter of Rufus King, the second Minister sent +to England by the United States after the adoption of +the Constitution.</p> + +<p>Miss King was educated in this country. In 1871, +after the death of her father, she went, with her mother +and sisters, to live in France, and in 1874 became the +wife of M. William Henry Waddington.</p> + +<p>M. Waddington was born in Normandy, France, in +1826. His grandfather was an Englishman who had +established cotton manufactories in France, and had become +a naturalised French citizen. The grandson, however, +was educated first in a Paris <em>lycée</em>, then at Rugby, +and later at Trinity College, Cambridge. As an undergraduate +he rowed in the Cambridge boat in the University +race of 1849. Soon after leaving the University, +M. Waddington returned to France and entered public +life. In 1871 he was elected a representative from the +Department of the Aisne to the National Assembly, and +two years afterward was appointed Minister of Public +Instruction in place of M. Jules Simon. In January, +1876, he was elected a senator for the Department of +the Aisne, and two months later again became Minister +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_vi" title="pg vi"> </a> +of Public Instruction. In December, 1877, he accepted +the portfolio of Minister of Foreign Affairs.</p> + +<p>M. Waddington was the first plenipotentiary of +France to the Congress of Berlin in 1878. On February +4, 1879, he became President of the Council (Premier), +retiring the following December. In the winter of 1879-1880 +he refused the offer of the London Embassy. In +May, 1883, he was sent as Ambassador-Extraordinary to +represent France at the coronation of the Czar Alexander +III at Moscow, and upon his return from Russia +was appointed Ambassador at the Court of St. James +to succeed M. Tissot. He held this post until 1893, +and died in Paris in the following year.</p> + +<p>Mme. Waddington accompanied her husband on his +missions to both England and Russia. The letters collected +in this volume were written during the period +of her husband's diplomatic service to describe to her +sisters the personages and incidents of her official life. +About a fourth part of their number have lately been +published in <em>Scribner's Magazine</em>; with this exception, +the letters are now given to the public for the first time.</p> + + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Tompkins McIlvaine.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">New York</span>, April 1, 1903.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_vii" title="pg vii"> </a></p> + + +<table class="list" id="illustrations"> +<caption>ILLUSTRATIONS</caption> + + +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus001">Portrait of Madame Waddington</a></span></td> +<td><em>Frontispiece</em></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="tdr">FACING PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus044">Colonel Benckendorff</a></span><br > +<em>From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_34">34</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus078">The Emperor Crowning the Empress. Church de +l'Assomption</a></span></td> +<td><a href="#page_66">66</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus082">Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes</a></span></td> +<td><a href="#page_68">68</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus120">Grand Duc Wladimir</a></span><br > +<em>From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_104">104</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus160">M. William Waddington</a></span><br > +<em>From a copyright photograph by Russell & Son.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_142">142</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus188">The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London</a></span> </td> +<td><a href="#page_168">168</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus194">The Dining-room of the French Embassy, London, Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries</a></span></td> +<td><a href="#page_172">172</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus202">J. J. Jusserand, Counsellor of the French Embassy</a></span><br> +<em>Recently appointed French Ambassador to the United States. From a photograph by Walery, Paris.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_178">178</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdtxt"><a href="#illus206"><span class="smcap">The Duchess of Cambridge</span> </a><br><em>From a photograph by Walery, London.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_180">180</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus220">Windsor Castle</a></span></td> +<td><a href="#page_192">192</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus228">M. and Mme. Waddington and Their Son</a></span><br> +<em>From a photograph by Cesar, Paris.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_198">198</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus242">The Salon of the French Embassy in London</a></span></td> +<td><a href="#page_210">210</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus250">Lady Salisbury</a></span></td> +<td><a href="#page_216">216</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus264">Knowsley Hall</a></span><br> +<em>The Earl of Derby's place at Prescot, Lancashire.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_228">228</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus270">The Late Earl of Derby</a></span><br> +<em>From a photograph by Franz Baum, London.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_232">232</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus280">The Countess Fanny Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassadress</a></span><br> +<em>From a photograph by Walery, London.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_240">240</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus292">Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the +State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887</a></span><br> +<em>From a photograph, copyright, by Hughes & Mullins, Ryde, England.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_250">250</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus298">The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the +Uniform Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, London, June, 1887</a></span><br> +<em>From a photograph by Loescher & Petsch, Berlin.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_254">254</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus308">Comtesse de Florian</a></span><br> +<em>From a photograph by Walery, London.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_262">262</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus352">Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the Shah of Persia, July 8, 1889</a></span><br> +<em>From a photograph by Russell & Sons, London.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_304">304</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus356">Lord Salisbury</a></span><br> +<em>From a photograph by Lambert Weston & Son, Dover.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_306">306</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus372">A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy</a></span><br> +<em>From a photograph by Barker & Pragnell, London.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_320">320</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus442">The Empress Frederick, Wearing the Order of the Black Eagle</a></span><br> +<em>The last portrait of the Empress by the artist Angeli.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_388">388</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus448">Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of +Wight</a></span><br> +<em>From a photograph by Broderick.</em></td> +<td><a href="#page_392">392</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_1" title="pg 1"> </a></p> + + + + + +<h1>LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE</h1> + + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_3" title="pg 3"> </a></p> + + + +<h2>PART I</h2> + +<h2>THE CORONATION OF THE CZAR</h2> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S</em>.</h3> + + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Paris</span>,<br > +31, Rue Dumont d'Urville,<br > +March 15, 1883.</p> + +<p>Our breakfast at the English Embassy was most interesting. +I began by refusing on account of my mourning, +but Lord Lyons wrote me a nice note saying that +there would be no one but the Léon Says and Mr. and +Mrs. Gladstone, so I accepted. I was very anxious to +see Mr. Gladstone.</p> + +<p>We had a pretty little breakfast upstairs in the small +dining-room, and the talk at table was most interesting. +I thought Mrs. Gladstone looked older than her +husband. He of course did most of the talking. He +has a fine voice, bright, keen, dark eyes, holds himself +very erect, and apparently knows everything about +everything. When the men were smoking after breakfast +I had quite a talk with Mrs. Gladstone, who told +me about the murder of Lord Frederick Cavendish. +She said her husband heard it at a big London party, +and had to go and tell Lady Frederick. Mr. Gladstone +was more upset by the whole thing (and the having to +tell the unfortunate wife) than she had ever seen him. +Il y avait de quoi, for even here in Paris, where <em>outside</em> +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_4" title="pg 4"> </a> +questions don't trouble them very much, there was great +excitement when the news came.</p> + +<p>I had a nice talk with Plunkett, who congratulated me +on W.'s<sup><a href="#fn1" id="r1">[1]</a></sup> appointment as Ambassador to Vienna. I told +him there was no truth in the report (they had offered +it to W., but he won't hear of it), and I think he is quite +right. He has no particular <em>attaches</em> at Vienna. He +knows German well, but doesn't speak it absolutely perfectly, +and hasn't really the social talents that one needs +in Vienna. They ought to send a dashing general, or a +courtier, not a serious savant.</p> + +<p>We certainly are leading different lives. I am wrapped +in my fur coat, and driving in a shut carriage. Your +tea in the garden sends a shiver through me. It sounds +quite romantic having the son of the "Roi des Montagnes" +to breakfast. I wonder if I shall ever see +Athens; W. says when I do that I will never care again +for Rome; that colouring and ruins are far superior in +Greece. I almost think in that case I would rather remain +under my present impression of dear, beautiful +Rome, not quite like our American friend, who thought +"the Colosseum was pretty, but she liked the Court-House +at St. Louis better."</p> + + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Paris</span>,<br > +Sunday, March 18, 1883.<br ></p> + + +<p>I will write a little this morning, Dear—I am just back +from l'Étoile. I have had rather an agitated week, and +here is my news, good—bad—I don't know myself. W. +is going as Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow to +represent France at the Coronation of the Emperor Alexander. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_5" title="pg 5"> </a> +It was a "bolt from the blue" to us. I will tell +you from the beginning. We went to ride as usual +Thursday morning, but rather earlier than usual (9.30). +When we came home Mdme. Hubert told us we hadn't +been gone ten minutes, when le Ministre des Affaires +Étrangères (Challemel-Lacour) came to see W., was +much discomposed at not finding him, and told Mdme. +H. he would come back at 11. He didn't reappear, but +one of the young attachés did, with a note from Challemel +begging W. to come and see him directly after +breakfast. We couldn't think what he wanted, but we +both made up our minds it was to insist on the Vienna +Embassy. I protested, and I think W. would not have +taken it.</p> + +<p>I went out in the afternoon with Anne to try on a dress +at Redfern's, and just as we were coming away W. appeared. +He had seen the carriage at the door and knew +he would find us. He looked rather preoccupied, so I +said, "You are not surely going to Vienna?"</p> + +<p>"No, not to Vienna, probably to Russia, for the Coronation."</p> + +<p>I was too bewildered at first to take it in, and I must +frankly say I was wretched. Of course he asked 24 +hours to think it over, though the Minister urged him +very much to accept at once. Challemel also wishes me +to go, says a woman gives more éclat to an Embassy. +Of course it will be a magnificent sight, but I am a perfect +poltroon—I am so afraid they will take advantage +of that crowd to blow up everybody. However, if that +should happen it would be better to be blown up together, +but I really am nervous (I am not usually such a +coward, but Russian Nihilists and dynamiters are terrible +elements to contend with), and wish they hadn't asked +him to go.</p> +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_6" title="pg 6"> </a></p> + +<p>Of course it is a great honour and compliment to W.'s +personal position, and I have given no opinion, but I +don't feel happy at all. I have always said that I would +never try to influence my husband's actions (public) in +any way, and I suppose I have kept to that as well as +most women do who marry public men, but I should like +to put a decided veto now. I will keep you au courant of +the decision.</p> + +<p class="author">March 20th.</p> + +<p>Well, Dear, it is quite decided. W. accepts to go to +Moscow, and takes me with him. He consulted his +brother and his friends and all told him he could not refuse. +As long as they didn't send a soldier (W. himself +would have asked Maréchal MacMahon to go, if he had +been at the Foreign Office), he was "tout indiqué." +<sup><a href="#fn2" id="r2">[2]</a></sup> It +seems all the other Powers are going to send Princes—Spain, +the Duc de Montpensier; England, the Duke of +Edinburgh; Italy, the Duc d'Aoste, etc.</p> + +<p>We are to start somewhere about the 8th or 10th of +May. W. is busy now composing his Mission. Of course +everybody wants to go. It seems such an undertaking. +We had a nice ride this morning—various people riding +with us, and all talking about the Coronation. I overheard +one timid old gentleman saying to W., "Vous emmenez +votre femme? Vous avez tort; on ne sait pas ce +qui peut arriver"—not very reassuring.</p> + +<p class="author">April 1st.</p> + +<p>My Dear, my letters will now become monotonous, +as I have only one idea—the Mission. All the arrangements +are being made, such an affair. W. has sent off +a man to Moscow to see about a house big enough to +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_7" title="pg 7"> </a> +hold all the party, with ballroom, and large dining-room +We are 9 people—W. and I; Comte de Pontécoulant, +Ministre Plénipotentiaire (W.'s ancien Chef de Cabinet); +Général Pittié (Général de Division, chef de la maison +militaire du Président de la République); Colonel +Comte de Sesmaisons, commandant les 6ème hussards; +François de Corcelle, Secrétaire d'Ambassade; +Commandant Fayet (de la maison du Président—Jules +Grévy); Richard Waddington, Député, Capitaine +dans l'armée territoriale; Robert Calmon, lieutenant +dans l'armée territoriale. L'uniforme est absolument +nécessaire en Russie.</p> + +<p>We have three servants—W.'s valet Joseph and my +two maids Adelaïde and Mdme. Hubert. All the gentlemen +have their servants. Then there is Pierson, the +huissier from the Quai d'Orsay (you know whom I mean, +the big man who wears a gilt chain, announces the people, +and writes down names, etc.), two cooks with one or +two garçons de cuisine; 3 coachmen, Hubert of course, +and two Englishmen. One, Mr. Leroy, such a magnificent +person, came this morning to see W. He has already +représenté on several occasions, and driven gala +carriages, etc. He seems graciously inclined to go with +us (with very high wages, and making his conditions—will +drive only the Ambassador and Ambassadress in the +gala carriage, etc.). That will necessitate very delicate +negotiations with Hubert, who also wishes to drive only +the Ambassador and me. However, as he has never +driven a gala carriage, and they are very heavy, unwieldy +vehicles to manage, I think he must waive his claim.</p> + +<p class="author">April 10th.</p> + +<p>There has also been a long consultation about horses, +how many for the gala carriage. When Maréchal MacMahon +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_8" title="pg 8"> </a> +went as Ambassador Extraordinary to the Emperor +of Germany's Coronation he had six horses and +running footmen (it seems there must be six or two—four +are not allowed. Four would be too sporting—not +serious enough). We have four enormous footmen, +and one ordinary sized one for every-day use—2 gala +carriages, and a coupé d'Orsay, which must be painted +dark blue with white stripes, our colours.</p> + +<p class="author">April 12th.</p> + +<p>We are getting on slowly. The horse question is +settled—no one has more than two, so we take 9 +enormous carrossiers. Hawes is commissioned to get +them. They could not be found anywhere in France. +I forget the exact height (as big as they make them), +but he promises to get them from England, or the +Luxembourg, where it seems they have a special breed +of enormous, heavy coach horses.</p> + +<p>We had a most satisfactory interview this morning +with M. Lhermite, the head man of the great restaurant, +Potel & Chabot. W. had been rather bothered about +a head man, or major domo, who could take charge of +the whole household. Our Joseph is not very brilliant—he +does W.'s service, and can look after an ordinary +household, but would not be at all up to the mark in +this case. Lhermite heard that W. was looking for +someone, so he came and volunteered to go with us, +and superintend everything. He was so well dressed +and had such good manners that W. rather demurred, +and thought he was above the place; however Lhermite +pressed it very much, and wound up by saying, "J'ai +été cuisinier moi-même, Monsieur, personne ne vous +servira mieux que moi." So it was settled, and he has +full powers to engage cooks, scullions, etc.</p> +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_9" title="pg 9"> </a></p> + +<p>The man who went to Moscow has just sent us the +plan of the house which he has found. It seems large +and handsome, a good entrance, marble staircase, large +ballroom and dining-room, and sufficient bedrooms. It +calls itself "Maison Klein," not a palace; and is evidently +the house of a rich Jew.</p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, May 6th.</p> + +<p>I am glad to have a day of rest, Dear. I didn't even +get up for church. The standing at the dressmaker's +is something awful. Yesterday I tried 12 dresses +(finished), 6 at Delannoy's before breakfast, and 6 at +Philippe's afterwards. They are all handsome—I think +the Court dresses will be handsome. The principal one +for the day of the Coronation is sapphire blue satin +embroidered all round the train (3 mètres long), with a +beautiful wreath of flowers in chenille, and silk, and gold +and silver leaves; very showy, in fact rather clinquant +(not at all like me), but they said I must have "des toilettes +à effet qui seraient remarquées." The under-dress +is salmon pink satin, the front all covered with flowers +to match the embroidery. I shall wear blue feathers +(short ones) in my hair. I am happy to say that the +regulation white waving plumes of the English Court +are not de rigueur in Russia. The other train is a pale +pink satin with raised dark red flowers and velvet leaves, +all the front my old point de Venise flounces which look +handsome. I suppose I shall take about 18 dresses in all.</p> + +<p>I have just had a nice visit from Prince Orloff, Russian +Ambassador here, who is a great friend of ours, and who +was very anxious from the first that I should go. I +confided to him that I was very nervous and uncomfortable. +I don't mind so much in the day time when I +am seeing quantities of people, and interested in the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_10" title="pg 10"> </a> +preparations; but I don't sleep, and have visions of the +Kremlin being blown up, and all sorts of horrors. As +Richard<sup><a href="#fn3" id="r3">[3]</a></sup> +goes with us too, I have made W. appoint a +guardian for Francis, as Henrietta and Anne could hardly +bring up a Frenchman, and after all we may none of us +ever come back.</p> + +<p>Henrietta was reduced to tears this morning when W. +gave her the key of his secrétaire, and said his will and +last directions were there, in case anything happened to +him—cheerful preparations for a festive journey.</p> + +<p class="author">Tuesday, May 8, 1883.</p> + +<p>Our boxes and cases are being packed, and the house +is a curiosity—crowded with every conceivable thing. +My two maids (I take Mdme. Hubert too, as Adelaïde is +not very strong, and if she gave out I should be in a bad +way) are much taken up with their outfit. They each +have two sets of new things, a blue serge costume and +coat for travelling, and a black silk for their gala +occasions. Pontécoulant is always teasing Mdme. Hubert, +and asking if "ses toilettes sont prêtes."</p> + +<p>This morning I saw the 9 gigantic horses which were +paraded under the windows. They started to-night, as +they must rest at Berlin. M. Lhermite is a treasure. +He also starts to-night with his cooks and provisions of +all kinds. W. and Pontécoulant gave him all their instructions, +and then he came for mine. I told him I +must have my maids in the room next to me, and as we +had a plan of the house, it is quite easy. I have a fair-sized +bedroom and dressing-room (which he will arrange +as a sort of boudoir) on the court (no living rooms are +on the street), and the maids a large room opening out +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_11" title="pg 11"> </a> +of the dressing-room. He is eminently practical; takes +charge of the whole personnel, will arrange a sort of +dormitory for all the men servants; will see that they are +ready in time, clean and well turned out.</p> + +<p>Pontécoulant, who is also very practical, overlooks +that part of the business; also the stables, and Mr. Leroy +and Lhermite will report to him every morning. Leroy +has also just been in, much pleased with his gala carriage +and liveries. Hubert is beaming, and most particular +about his lace jabot and ruffles. I wonder how they will +all ever settle down to our quiet life again.</p> + +<p class="author">Thursday, 10th.</p> + +<p>I will finish this afternoon, Dear. I am ready to start, +dressed in my travelling dress, dark blue cloth, with a +long coat lined with red satin, and a black hat with blue +feathers (I haven't got on the coat and hat yet). There +has been such a procession of people all day, and great +vans to carry off the luggage. I have been rather +bothered about my jewels—how to carry them. I have +taken everything the family own. Anne's necklace, with +some extra stones I had, has been converted into a tiara. +All the Russian women wear their National coiffure at +the Coronation, the Kakoshnik. As that is very high, +studded with jewels, any ordinary arrangement of stars +and feathers would look insignificant. Freddy, who is +an authority on such matters, advised me to concentrate +all my efforts on the tiara—he also suggested ropes of +pearls (artificial) but I couldn't make up my mind to +that. Chemin, the jeweller, was very anxious I should +"louer" a sort of breastplate of diamonds—but on the +whole I preferred taking less—merely mine and the +sisters'. What I shall do if they are stolen or lost I am +sure I don't know. I don't care to carry them myself +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_12" title="pg 12"> </a> +in a bag, as I never by any chance carry my bag, I +should certainly leave it somewhere; and I don't like +to give it to the maids either, so I have put all the jewels +in two trunks, scattered about the fond, wrapped up with +silk stockings, etc.</p> + +<p>I have given my last instructions to Nounou, and a +nice young coachman who comes to replace Hubert in +our absence, and also provided a surprise for baby in the +shape of a large train, which will distract him the first +days. We saw also this morning the detective who goes +with us. He is one of those who always accompany the +foreign Princes who pass through Paris, and is said to +know well all the great nihilist leaders (all of whom he +says will be at the Coronation). He has two ordinary +policemen with him. They go of course on the +train with us, and never lose sight of us. I shall feel +rather like a distinguished criminal being tracked across +Europe.</p> + +<p>Pontécoulant is very funny over Philippe the coiffeur, +who presented himself at the Quai d'Orsay, and insisted +upon being included in the suite (consequently travelling +free of expense on the special trains, etc., with us). He +really isn't my coiffeur—I never have anyone except +Georges from time to time, but I daresay I shall be glad +to have him. He said to Pontécoulant, "Monsieur le +Comte comprend bien qu'il faut que je pose le diadème +de Madame l'Ambassadrice le jour du Couronnement;" +however he has gained his point, and Madame l'Ambassadrice +takes her own coiffeur with her, as well as her +two maids.</p> + +<p>Well, Dear, we are going in an hour, and I must try +and reason with myself, and not be the arrant coward I +really feel like.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_13" title="pg 13"> </a></p> + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Kaiserhof, Berlin</span>,<br > +Saturday, May 12th, 1883.</p> + +<p>Here we are, having accomplished our journey so far +most comfortably. We arrived last night about 9, and +this morning I am unpacking a little, and settling myself, +as we shall stay four or five days. Our departure from +the Gare du Nord Thursday night was a curiosity. We +got rather early to the station, as W. was preoccupied +with the baggage, and besides there were last words to +say to all the people who came to see us off. Henrietta, +rather tearful, came with us to the station—Francis was +so engrossed with his new railway train that was careering +round on beautiful green rails in his father's study, +that he was quite indifferent. The whole quai was filled +with boxes and trunks labelled "Waddington, Moscow," +and when you think that all the soldiers took their saddles +and trappings of all kinds, and what the stable alone +represented, 2 enormous gala carriages, one coupé +d'Orsay, and all the heavy harness and servants' liveries, +you can imagine what an excitement there was until +everything was put on board.</p> + +<p>We started, however, fairly punctually—W. and I had +a lit-salon, with cabinet de toilette; the two maids and +W.'s man next door, and Sesmaisons and François de +Corcelle (the only two who came with us, the rest of +the Mission joins us Tuesday at Berlin), had their coupé +next to ours. There were all sorts of last directions to +be given to Pontécoulant, and to poor Henrietta, who +remains in charge of Francis.</p> + +<p>I slept pretty well all night, as you know I am a good +traveller, and about 7 Adelaïde came in to arrange me +a little, as we were to breakfast at Cologne (where we +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_14" title="pg 14"> </a> +were due at 8 o'clock) with our consul there, and also +the consul at Düsseldorf, who is rather a friend of W.'s. +We had a very good little breakfast in the private room, +and when we started again, the Chef-de-Gare coming at +the last moment to conduct us to our coupé, there was +much bowing and scraping to Monsieur l'Ambassadeur +and Mdme. l'Ambassadrice. We made quite an excitement +at the station, and all the people who were coming +and going in the numerous trains that passed through +had their heads out of the windows to see what was +going on. They had filled our coupé with papers of all +kinds (German), illustrated and political, also a large +bouquet for me.</p> + +<p>We dined at Hanover, not in a private room this time, +but at a round table at one end of the large room. Who +do you think came to see me? Mr. Joy; he had seen in +the papers that we were to pass through, so he took +himself down to the station to see if he could see us. +I introduced him to W.—we had only time for a little +talk, as he came rather late. He also brought papers +and a magazine or two, so we are well supplied with +literature for the present.</p> + +<p>When we arrived here at the station we found M. de +Courcel, our Ambassador in Berlin, waiting for us with +all his staff. He drove us at once in his carriage to the +hotel, and said he would come in again an hour later +and tell W. about his audiences, etc. We have beautiful +rooms, a large salon looking on the street, dining-room, +two good-sized bedrooms and a very good ante-room +(where by the way Pierson, with his chain and sword +and dress clothes, is already installed. When I came out +of the salon just now he was there, and I rather felt as +if I was back at the Quai d'Orsay, and he was announcing +my visitors).</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_15" title="pg 15"> </a></p> + +<p>While we were talking to Courcel last night one of +the hotel servants came in to say—would I go for one +moment to speak to the maids, he couldn't make out +what they wanted. I did go, but merely to tell these +ladies that I would thank them to get along as well as +they could, and to find a polygot waiter, or someone to +translate for them; that I certainly was not going to +look out for them, and they had better try and learn a +little German.</p> + +<p>Courcel says the Emperor, Prince Imperial, and Bismarck +all want to see W.—he also warns him that +Bismarck is in an execrable humor. I don't think W. +minds that very much. He is a very cool gentleman +himself, and I imagine he will say all he wants to to the +great man.</p> + +<p class="author">10-30.</p> + +<p>W. and I went for a walk before breakfast to the +Pariser Platz to see the outside of the French Embassy; +it looks big and imposing. We came home through +"Unter den Linden." Berlin has much improved, and +has much more the air of a capital than when I first saw +it a great many years ago. Of course I was much struck +with the quantities of soldiers one sees in the streets. +The officers are a fine lot of men, but, like ramrods, +so stiff; and when they are walking two or three together +take up the whole pavement.</p> + +<p>Sesmaisons and Corcelle breakfasted with us—Sesmaisons +is delighted to be back in Berlin. He was military +attaché there at the time of the Berlin Congress, +when St. Vallier was Ambassador, and has many friends. +M. de Courcel came in just as we were finishing, with +a long list for W., his audience cards, invitations, etc. +Then came George de Bunsen with his wife and daughters. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_16" title="pg 16"> </a> +I had never seen the ladies of the family, and +was glad to make their acquaintance. They were very +friendly, and we made various engagements with them. +M. de Bunsen I had seen before in France—he is quite +charming, very good-looking, and not at all Prussian, so +cosmopolitan, which is always most attractive.</p> + +<p>W. and I went out together and paid several visits, to +the Embassy first, where we found Mdme. de Courcel. +The rooms are large and handsome, with good pictures +and splendid tapestries. We took a turn in the Thiergarten, +and the Jardin Zoölogique (where we saw an +enormous yellow lion—a terrible beast, handsome, too). +W. then went to see Hatzfeldt (Foreign Minister), who +was very amiable, but said nothing in particular—none +of Bismarck's people ever do.</p> + +<p>We dined early at the Embassy with all the personnel. +The dinner was good and handsome, plenty of +servants, lights, flowers—everything in very good style. +While the men were smoking Mdme. de Courcel and I +talked. She told me some of her Berlin experiences, +and how difficult her beginnings were, but I suppose +they always must be until one has had time to look +around a little. We have just come home, and after +talking a little with the gentlemen I have left them to +their cigars and papers, and am glad to be in my own +quarters.</p> + +<p>The maids have had a delightful afternoon. They +have found a gérant who speaks French, and who has +taken them a little about Berlin, which they find "très +gentil." W. has his audience from the Emperor at one +o'clock to-morrow in uniform. None of the ladies, Empress +nor Princesses, are here, so I have nothing to do.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_17" title="pg 17"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, May 13th.</p> + +<p>I didn't go out this morning, but wrote and read. +The two gentlemen breakfasted with us as usual, and a +little before one W. went off for his audience with the +Emperor in full uniform, which is very becoming to him. +(He hates it as it is so heavy, with all the thick gold +embroidery, and he is very hot and uncomfortable.) +The audience lasted about three-quarters of an hour. +W. was astounded at the Emperor's appearance and conversation, +said he was au courant of everything—he said +among other things—"Ah, vous emmenez Mme. Waddington +à Moscow? eh bien! moi, je n'envoie pas mon +héritier," adding though immediately he didn't think +there was any danger from the Nihilists this time.</p> + +<p>He had barely time to get home and out of his uniform +when Lord and Lady Ampthill arrived. They were +quite charming, both of them. He and I plunged into +the old Roman days, where we knew him so well as +Odo Russell. They are great favourites here, both at +court and with their colleagues. He spoke a great deal +about St. Vallier, said he was the best colleague he had +ever had.</p> + +<p>At four W. started again to see Bismarck (not in uniform +this time), and I drove out to the George Bunsens' +to have tea. They have a pretty house. Theodore +was also there, and we had a pleasant hour. They asked +us to come in to-morrow after our dinner at the Embassy. +When I got back I found W. smoking in a big +arm-chair, quite pleased with his talk with Bismarck, +who was most amiable, had at least no "crise de nerfs" +while he was there. He said he was very frank, almost +brutal, in his appreciations of other countries, and particularly +of different public men whose views didn't coincide +directly with his, but on the whole not too offensive. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_18" title="pg 18"> </a> +He kept him until his dinner was announced (at +5 o'clock), and asked him to come and see him on his +way back from Moscow, and give him his impressions; +so apparently it is only from his own agents that he +doesn't wish impressions. Do you remember C. writing +to him, from the Hague, I think, the account of some +manifestation or political crisis, and naturally saying what +he thought about the matter; and the very curt answer +he received from the Minister, saying he had asked for +facts, and not for "personal appreciations." One would +think that the opinion of the most ordinary agent on +the spot would have a certain importance.</p> + +<p class="author">Tuesday, 15th.</p> + +<p>It is very warm—I have been out with Adelaïde trying +to get a light blouse, my cloth body is unbearable. +Everything was shut yesterday, as it was Whit Monday. +W. dined at the Palace at 5, Sesmaisons also. I went to +the races with Mdme. de Courcel and some of the young +men. It was rather amusing, a lovely day, about three +quarters of an hour by train from Berlin. The public +was not nearly so élégant as on a Paris race-course, but +there were more pretty women, and quantities of stiff, +arrogant officers (always en tenue).</p> + +<p>When we got back to the hotel at 7.30 we found W. +at the door, just back from his dinner, so François de +Corcelle and I dined tête-à-tête, and W. talked to us—said +the dinner was good, small and easy. The Prince +Imperial and Grand Duchess of Baden were both there. +The Grand Duchess told W. that in a telegram received +that morning from her mother (the Empress Augusta) +she had said how much she regretted not seeing him, +that she had always watched his career with great interest, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_19" title="pg 19"> </a> +and was very glad to see him coming to the front +again.</p> + +<p>The Emperor talked about everything—France; England; +the religious question in France; he believed French +women of all classes were clerical, and under the influence +of the priests, so naturally they could have no +sympathy with a liberal government, "which is a pity, it +is a mistake to have the women against you." We had +an audience with the Prince Imperial after dinner, which +was pleasant, but absolutely commonplace. He and all +the Princes were in uniform, petite tenue.</p> + +<p>We finished our evening at the Bunsens', which was +pleasant. W. was very glad to have a quiet talk with +M. de Bunsen, who is most attractive, such a charming +manner. This evening we have dined as usual at the +French Embassy with quite a party, including Bleichroeder, +an Israelite banker, bras droit of Bismarck, and +therefore interesting. We came early, as all the rest of +our Mission arrived to-night at 9 o'clock, and we wanted +to see them. They all came up after supper, looking +most cheerful, had had a very pleasant journey, rather +warm in the middle of the day, and were quite game +to see all they can of Berlin to-morrow, as we go on to +Warsaw to-morrow night.</p> + +<p class="author">Wednesday, May 16th.</p> + +<p>We are starting this evening, Dear, so I will scratch a +few lines to finish this very long epistle, and will send it +from here. It is still very warm. I went out to see +some of the pictures (how beautiful the Velasquez are) +and the marbles of Pergamos, and Pontécoulant and I +breakfasted together at the hotel; W. and Richard at the +George Bunsens', who really have been as friendly and +hospitable as possible. After breakfast we had various +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_20" title="pg 20"> </a> +visits, and then Pontécoulant, Corcelle and I went for a +last drive in the Thier-Garten. I hoped we should meet +either the Emperor (I have never seen him) or the Prince +Imperial, but we didn't. There were plenty of people +riding and driving, as it was the fashionable day "Corso." +We saw the Princess Frederick Charles in an open carriage +with four horses, and a piqueur in front. The Court +liveries are handsome, but sombre, black and silver. +Everybody bowed and curtseyed, the officers saluting +de front.</p> + +<p>We went round by the Zoo to show Pontécoulant the +big lion. Pontécoulant was most amusing over their +journey, and said he was nearly driven out of his mind +the day before they started with all the people who came +to see him. He says Philippe, the coiffeur, has never left +him, that it won't be his fault if my diadem is not perfectly +posé, and that he plied him with beer all along the +route. He is here supping and living at the hotel with +all our suite, and sent word to me this morning that +he was at my disposition to make me a "coiffure de circonstance" +for the night journey. What do you suppose +it would have been?</p> + +<p>Pontécoulant had seen Henrietta and Francis the day +he left, and had left orders at the Foreign Office that the +Havas telegrams which will keep her au courant of our +movements shall always be sent to her. All the personnel +except W. and me dine at the Embassy to-night. +I am not sorry to have a quiet evening. We leave at +11 to-night, and get to Alexandrownow about 7.30 to-morrow. +That is the Russian frontier, and there we +shall have some sort of official reception.</p> + +<p>W. has been riding these last two days with Sancy, +the military attaché, and that always does him good. +I couldn't find any sort of silk blouse, so I trust it won't +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_21" title="pg 21"> </a> +be very warm travelling to-night. When we cross the +frontier I shall feel as if our journey had begun. Here +we have lived so with the Embassy that I hardly feel as +if I was abroad, only the cadre is different, and the +Prussian uniforms a disagreeable reminder. I don't +think it is an easy post to be Ambassador here, and I +should think M. de Courcel's succession would be a very +difficult one. He knows German well, and has always +lived with diplomatists, but if they send a political +man, I think he will have a hard time; though as Bismarck +said to W. when they were talking about any +possible war in Europe—"Je désire la paix, je suis un +homme satisfait," which wasn't very pleasant for the +French Ambassador to hear, as I suppose what has +largely contributed to his satisfaction is the possession +of Alsace-Lorraine.</p> + +<p>We have had our dinner, and W. smoked on the balcony, +and we saw all the gentleman-servants, omnibuses +and baggage start. We shall only go just in time to +have 5 minutes talk on the platform with M. de Courcel, +who is coming to say good-by. The gérant of the hotel +has just been up to hope we were satisfied—would we +telegraph when we came back, as of course he would +give us the same rooms, and presented me with a large +bouquet.</p> + +<p>Did I say that the Malagache Embassy was at the +hotel, on the same floor with us. Every time I go down +the corridor I see two or three tall, dark men, dressed +in white flowing garments and white turbans, who make +me low salaams. They are not going to the "Kronung," +as they call it here.</p> + +<p>My next letter will be from Warsaw, where we should +arrive at 4 to-morrow afternoon.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_22" title="pg 22"> </a></p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Hôtel de l'Europe, Varsovie</span>,<br > +Thursday, May 17th, 1883.</p> + +<p>Here we are, Dear, having arrived from Berlin at 3.30 +this afternoon. We started at 11—it was very hot even +at that hour of the night, and the coupé-lit stuffy and +uncomfortable. M. de Courcel and all his staff were at +the station to see us off, and the two Embassies united +made quite a gathering. I had a little talk with Princess +Guillaume Radziwill, who is starting for the Coronation. +It seems she has splendid jewels, and was rather bothered +to know how to carry them. She has got them all on, +in little leather bags around her waist, and she thinks +she won't be very comfortable all night, with pins, +brooches, etc., running into her. She was horrified when +I told her where mine were.</p> + +<p>The night was long, we were not very comfortable, +and the gentlemen were decidedly squeezed in one little +carriage. We stopped somewhere, I don't remember +the name, about 6. The men all got out and had coffee. +I didn't move, but they sent me in a cup. We got to +Alexandrownow, the Russian frontier, about 8. The +station had a decidedly festive appearance—flags, greens, +soldiers, music, etc. They were evidently preparing a +salute and a national anthem of some kind. We all +thought it was for us, and were proceeding to emerge to +the strains of the "Marseillaise," when we heard the +"Wacht-am-Rhein." It seems there was a Hessian +Prince, nephew of the Emperor, on board, who was also +going to the Coronation, so we rentréed our heads, and +remained quietly in our carriages until they had disposed +of him.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_23" title="pg 23"> </a></p> + +<p>Then came our turn. We were received with all +ceremony—a tall Russian officer took charge of me, saying, +in very good French, he was sure I would like to +brush off the dust, and have some tea, etc. He took me +upstairs to a very nice room, where a little maid was +waiting with hot water, towels, brushes, tea, and little +rolls. I took off my dress to have it brushed, and while +I was standing in my petticoats several gentlemen came +to the door (which wouldn't shut), and made various perfectly +unintelligible remarks to me. The little maid +laughed and made signs, and carried off my dress, which +I thought was dangerous—however I couldn't say anything, +so I put myself behind the door, and Adelaide +arranged my hair; and I was just thinking of having a +cup of tea when the maid reappeared with my dress, +accompanied by another officer, who told me in French, +from the other side of the door, that his Royal Highness +of Hesse hoped I would do him the honour of +breakfasting with him. I said I would come with <ins title="Transcriber note: spelled 'pleassure' in image">pleasure</ins>, +but begged they wouldn't wait, as I was not quite +ready. As soon as I was dressed I sallied out, found +my officer waiting, who conducted me to a private room, +where were the Prince and his party, including W. and a +Russian general, who had been sent from Varsovie to +meet the Hessian Prince.</p> + +<p>They were all at table—the Prince put me next to him, +introduced the Russian general and all his suite, and we +had rather a pleasant hour. We had excellent tea in +glasses (the first time I ever saw it), delicious little rolls, +eggs, and cold meat. The Prince is a tall, broad-shouldered, +good-natured German, speaking French quite well.</p> + +<p>We had the same ceremony at starting, first the +"Wacht-am-Rhein" for the Germans, then the "Marseillaise" +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_24" title="pg 24"> </a> +for us. The journey was not particularly interesting +from the frontier here, but Varsovie itself most +curious. We found the same bustle and preparation at +the station here—the Governor of Varsovie, and Préfet +de Police en tenue, and our Consul, M. Bérard.</p> + +<p>We drove at once to the hotel, looked at our rooms, +which are comfortable, and started again for a little drive +through the town before dinner. Anything so unlike +the cities one has been accustomed to see can't be imagined, +long, straggling streets, enormous spaces, many +houses tumbling down, and abominable pavement, deep +holes, and paving stones as big as ordinary rocks—why +the carriage ever got along was a mystery to us all. +The Russian coachman, a perfect type with his long +caftan and flat cap. Why the horses remain attached +to the carriage is a problem, as they apparently have no +harness of any description. I used to think we didn't +use much in America. Will you ever forget Coligny's +face at Oyster Bay when we started trotting down hill +without any breeching?</p> + +<p>There were quantities of dirty Polish Jews in every +direction, all with their long caftans, greasy, black curls, +and ear-rings. I had time to rest a little before dinner. +We all dined together, also Bérard the Consul, all the +men in their dress clothes, and I in my grey moiré with +white lace, and a big, black velvet bow, one string of +pearls which I had on under my corsage. Pontécoulant, +who is the next man to W., took me in, and I had General +Pittié on the other side. The dinner was handsome and +well served. Pontécoulant had attended to that while +we were driving about.</p> + +<p>After dinner the men all went off to the theatre in the +Governor's box to see a famous ballet. I was rather +tired, and as we start again to-morrow, and have two +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_25" title="pg 25"> </a> +nights in the train, I sha'n't mind going to bed early. I +was interrupted, as we have had a visit, pleasant enough, +from Mavrocordato (Greek), who is also on his way to +Moscow to represent his country, and now I am going to +bed. We leave to-morrow at 4, and I will try and write +a little en route. They say I can probably, as the +Russian roads (railroads) are smooth, and they go very +slowly.</p> + +<p class="author">Friday, 2 o'clock.</p> + +<p>I will go on a little and send this letter also from here. +We had an expedition this morning to one of the +châteaux belonging to some member of the Sobieski +family, or rather belonging to a Potocki quelconque, +where there are many souvenirs of Sobieski. I never was +on such a villainous pavement (they tell me Moscow is +worse), and the road long and straight through flat +country, not very interesting. The château was full of +pictures and bibelots of all kinds, and every possible souvenir +of Sobieski, flags, swords, snuff-boxes, etc., and +quite worth seeing. I enjoyed the outing, as everything +was absolutely unique, carriages, costumes, carts, people, +language, houses, a poor tumble-down little hovel next +to a great palace with gates and courts and gardens.</p> + +<p>We lunched again with all the Embassy, and then I +went to see what was happening to the maids. I had +left them in such a dejected condition on the landing +when I went out. They couldn't get hold of any servant +(couldn't make them understand when they did), +couldn't get my boots or travelling skirt, or hot water, +or anything, in fact. The hotel is full of people, all +starting this afternoon, and there is a fine confusion, but +they really must learn to get along without all modern +conveniences.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_26" title="pg 26"> </a></p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Entre Varsovie et Moscou</span>,<br > +en wagon, Samedi soir, 19.</p> + +<p>I will try and write a little, Dear, while we are stopping +at Smolensk for tea. It is rather difficult when we +are moving (though we go slowly) as you will see by the +writing, as the train shakes a great deal. As soon as it +stops we all tumble out, are received by railway officials +in uniform, and conveyed to a private room decorated +with greens and flags, where most elaborate repasts are +provided. We got off from Varsovie yesterday most +comfortably about 4 o'clock. Various officials, our Consul +Bérard, were at the station to see us off, and an +engineer of the company, who goes with us to Moscow +to interpret and look after us generally. The train is +most luxurious—for W. and me one long saloon carriage +lined with grey satin, and with every variety of +easy chair, sofa, table, writing-table, lamp, etc. Flowers +on one of the tables and maps of the route on another. +Communicating with it and directly behind are +two bedrooms for us—mine is capitonné in blue satin, +a very good-sized bed, glass, chairs, table, etc., also a +dressing-room with every modern convenience. W.'s is +grey satin, equally comfortable, with dressing-room, bath, +etc.—behind these again a coupé for the maids—then a +long carriage for the rest of the Mission with chairs, +tables, etc, and small coupés. The engineer showed us +all the arrangements, hoped we were satisfied, and also +told us that two employés would be stationed at each +end of our carriage always for whatever we might want.</p> + +<p>We got off fairly punctually. I wonder if I shall ever +see Varsovie again. We stopped somewhere about +5.30, and found a charming little tea waiting for us in a +private room, served of course in glasses with pieces of +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_27" title="pg 27"> </a> +lemon, and excellent rolls and cakes. There we fraternized +with the Dutch Mission, who are also on the +train. M. Schimmelpenninck, a tall, stylish-looking man, +with his son and gendre. The young men had recognized +W., having seen him at the Congrès de Berlin; so +they recalled themselves, and we made friends. We +agreed to take all our meals together, and as apparently +we shall have about 6 in the day we shall probably see a +good deal of each other.</p> + +<p>We had rather a pleasant evening, dined (very well) +at Brest, always the same ceremonial; and after dinner +some of the gentlemen came and paid us visits. We +talked of course about "La Grande Armée" and Napoleon's +campaigns, as we are passing over the same ground +that they followed. The two moujiks at the doors are +most attentive and intelligent; as soon as they hear any +noise in our carriage, opening or shutting a window, or +anything falling (some of the heavy books slipped off a +table just now), they seem to divine it, and appear instantly +and ask, I suppose, what we want. We have no +means of communication, but they evidently understand.</p> + +<p>I was very comfortable last night in my little blue +room, and had been sleeping quietly, when I seemed to +divine that someone had come in. I didn't stir, and +half opened my eyes, and for a moment was rather +startled. The lamp, shaded, was burning, and in came +one of the moujiks quite quietly. He moved very +softly about the room, rather an appalling figure, with +his high boots, fur cap, and curious half-savage face +(gentle too), touched door and windows, fussed over the +lamp, drew the curtain of the dressing-room a little +closer to keep out any draught (didn't come up to the +bed), and went out again just as quietly. It was a +curious experience, flying through the darkness of the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_28" title="pg 28"> </a> +night, and wakening to see that strange figure prowling +about.</p> + +<p>About 7, I think, in the morning he reappeared, this +time standing at the door, and making many perfectly +unintelligible remarks. It was so evident I didn't understand +that he smiled, made a despairing gesture with his +hand, and disappeared. As I was quite sure he would +come back I got up and fastened the door. In a few +moments I heard a colloquy outside, and then the voice +of the engineer asking when I would like my maid and +my tea—also saying they would stop in about an hour +for early breakfast, and that mine and the Ambassador's +would be brought to our carriage.</p> + +<p>I asked to have the maid at once—so Adelaïde appeared +with hot water and a cup of tea, and I dressed +as comfortably as if I was in my dressing-room at the +Rue Dumont d'Urville. As soon as I was ready I went +into the big carriage, which looked very nice and clean, +had been swept and dusted, window-panes washed (Adelaïde +saw the men doing it); a very nice little breakfast +tray was brought, tea, every variety of good little +rolls, and some fish. We contented ourselves with the +rolls, didn't experiment upon the fish. The table was +close to the window—all the gentlemen came up and +talked to us, and as usual there were quantities of people +about.</p> + +<p>We have passed through most desolate country, miles +of plains, with scarcely any traces of human habitation. +The cottages are very few and far between—generally a +collection of +<ins title="Trancriber note: spelled 'litttle' in image">little</ins> wood hovels, or "isbas," as they are +called. We go long distances without seeing houses, +fences, gates, or even a road. At all the stations there +are people—the big ones crowded—and at the smaller +ones, where we hardly stop, merely slacken, peasants—and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_29" title="pg 29"> </a> +such objects, one can hardly tell the men from the +women; long, unkempt hair, all barefooted, and all wearing +a sort of fur garment with a hole in the middle to pass +the head through, and which falls low down to their +knees.</p> + +<p>We have just had tea at Smolensk, which is very +Russian looking, with gilded domes and pink and green +painted roofs. The gentlemen are smoking and walking +up and down the platform, always exciting great attention. +There are two rather pretty girls, with fair hair +and red blouses, who are giggling and looking, and evidently +wish to be remarked.</p> + +<p>We have gone on again now and are settled for the +evening. The carriage looks so comfortable, curtains +drawn, lamps lighted, flowers on the tables, and quantities +of books and maps. Sesmaisons and Corcelle have +just been in with their maps and Napoleon's Memoirs. +It is most interesting to follow it all. They read out bits +here and there as we passed through some well-known +locality. At the Beresina, I think, where the passage of +the river was so awful—some of the men quite exhausted, +and yet not wanting to lie down on the snow, made themselves +seats out of the dead bodies of their comrades. +What an awful retreat!</p> + +<p>We have crossed the Beresina, where we saw a long +procession of wood rafts. They are of the most primitive +description—long logs lashed together, and in the +middle a sort of cabin or hovel, where the women and +children live. They were floating slowly down with the +tide as we passed, and singing a sort of sad, monotonous +chaunt, which sounded weird and pathetic, but impressionnant. +They say all the Russian National songs have +that undercurrent of sadness.</p> + +<p>Our dinner to-night was very gay. Schimmelpenninck +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_30" title="pg 30"> </a> +is most attractive. We have become great friends—I +have even confided to him where my jewels are, as he +thought I had left a bag in one of the stations, and +was convinced it held my diamonds. I told him what +dress I was going to wear at the Coronation, also my +difficulty in finding out what the French Court dress +was. The Empress never wore a regular Court train—her +presentations in the Tuileries were always in the +evening, in ordinary ball dress. I didn't think Queen +Marie Amélie's would have been very pretty, so we +concocted a Court dress from pictures, other people's +souvenirs, etc.</p> + +<p>I was glad to walk up and down a little—one gets +cramped sitting so long, even with our outings for food, +which are frequent. The tea is extremely good always, +a sort of greenish flavour, but very delicate, and I should +think very strong. Pontécoulant showed me Monsieur +Philippe in the distance, talking and gesticulating, evidently +considering himself a most important feature of +the Mission—also the detective, who looks like an amiable +well-to-do bourgeois travelling for his pleasure, until +you meet his eyes, and there is a quick, keen look which +tells you he is very much on the alert. He has again +just given W. the pleasing piece of information that all +the well-known Nihilist leaders will be at Moscow.</p> + +<p>Hubert came up and says the horses are quite well—their +rest at Berlin did them good. He is very much +impressed with the absolute solitude of the country—"pas +de villages—pas de barrières, pas même de chemins." +We have also a telegram from M. Lhermite saying +the house is quite in order, he and his cooks and attendants +installed, and he will have breakfast ready for us to-morrow +morning. We arrive about 8. We must be ready +early, as they say the approach to Moscow is very fine. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_31" title="pg 31"> </a> +It stands low in a plain, but one sees the gilt domes and +coloured steeples from a great distance.</p> + +<p>Our engineer tells us the railway officials are out of +their minds. He says the special envoys—Princes particularly—change +their minds and their routes all the +time. They all have special trains, and the confusion +will be something awful. The Hessian Prince is just +ahead of us. We haven't crossed many trains, and yet +there must be frequent communication between Varsovie +and Moscow.</p> + +<p>I still feel rather in a dream, but not tired. I must +stop now as it is nearly eleven—my next letter will be +from Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, Moscow. Richard +came in just now, and we have been talking over our +future—Russia is a "terra incognita" to all of us. It has +been certainly most novel and interesting so far. Just +now we stopped for a few moments at a little station, +quite alive with people and lights, as of course trains +are going all night. The people look so different—generally +fair, with flat features, and a repressed look, as +if they had always been kept down.</p> + +<p>This long effusion will go early to-morrow morning, +as they send off a valise at once from Moscow.</p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France, Moscow</span>,<br > +<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br > +Monday, May 21st, 1883.</p> + +<p>We arrived quite safely and comfortably yesterday +morning—34 people, counting servants, policemen, etc. +I hadn't time to write, but you will have had the Havas +telegram announcing our arrival. I am writing in my +little boudoir, which looks on a large, square, light courtyard, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_32" title="pg 32"> </a> +and I wish you could see the wild confusion that +reigns there. Quantities of boxes and "ballots" of every +description. Mdme. Hubert, with a veil tied over her +head, struggling to get at some of my trunks, which are +all marked with an enormous M. K. W. in white letters +(a private mark, so as not to confound them with the +general mark of the Mission). Leroy, Hubert, and +Pontécoulant trying to get the big carriage cases opened +(they look like small houses). Sesmaisons and Calmon +fussing over their saddles, which they apparently had got +without much difficulty—quantities of Russian helpers +working, talking, but <em>not</em> loud, nor yelling to each other. +How anything will ever come out of all that chaos I don't +know.</p> + +<p>However, I must begin at the beginning. We got +here about 8.30 yesterday morning. We were all up +early, as the country grew more interesting as we approached +Moscow. We had a confused vision of gilt +domes, high coloured steeples, etc., but nothing stood +out very distinctly. There was a fine confusion at the station—quantities +of officials, all in uniform, detachments +of soldiers, red carpets, etc. We were <em>not</em> received +officially, not being Princes. The Mission only exists +here <em>after</em> they have presented their lettres de créance. +We found our consul, Lagrené, waiting for us, several +members of the French Colony, and Lhermite. We +drove off at once to our Ambassade. The main street, +Tverskaya, looked very gay with quantities of flags and +draperies in every direction, and even at that time in the +morning a great many people. Our house looks well—the +entrance isn't bad, and the staircase marble, handsome. +I hardly looked at the reception-rooms, as I was +anxious to get to mine. Lhermite had done them very +well, quite as I wanted, and a nice-looking woman, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_33" title="pg 33"> </a> +Russian of course, the femme de charge left in the house, +was there to see if everything was right.</p> + +<p>I washed off a little dust, got a cup of tea, and then +went with W. and Pontécoulant to inspect the house. +The ballroom, "serre," and 3 drawing-rooms are nice; +the dining-room small in comparison and low. Not a +breath of air anywhere, double windows, hermetically +sealed, with <em>one</em> pane opening in each; so the very first +thing we did was to send for someone to take down the +extra window, and open everything wide—the close +smell was something awful. The femme de charge was +astounded, and most unwilling. I think she thought we +wished to demolish the whole establishment. W. has a +large room opening out of the drawing-room. Pontécoulant +took charge of the distribution of the gentlemen's +rooms (which wasn't easy, as they were generally +small, and not particularly comfortable, but I must say +they were all easy going, and not at all inclined to make +difficulties). He chose a room down-stairs for himself +next the Chancellerie, which he has arranged at once +very well. The ballroom is handsome, a parquet floor, +and yellow satin furniture; the other drawing-rooms too +are well furnished in silk and satin. The dining-room is +small, but the serre will make a very good fumoir where +the gentlemen can sit and smoke. It has nice cane arm-chairs +and tables, and will be a resource.</p> + +<p>I went back to my own rooms and arranged my +affairs with the maids. There is a large room, half +lingerie, half débarras, upstairs, with good placards and +closets where I can put my dresses if I ever get hold of +them. They must be unpacked at once, particularly the +velvet dresses. Of course I am always at the window. +My Dear, how it would amuse you, so absolutely unlike +anything you have ever seen.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_34" title="pg 34"> </a></p> + +<p>The men seem to work well enough—they all wear +red <ins title="Transcriber note: spelled 'flannnel' in image">flannel</ins> shirts tucked into their trousers, and high +boots—at the present moment they are all gaping at +the horses, who certainly do look enormous (the +Russian horses are all small). It seems ours stand the +cannon, and shouting, and waving flags and draperies +very well (so the lessons in the École Militaire, where +they were taken several times after they arrived in Paris +to have cannons and guns fired close to their heads, and +flags waved about, did them good).</p> + +<p>A little Russian maid, in a red petticoat, and a blue +handkerchief tied over her head, has just appeared, and +I suppose will be a sort of fille de chambre. She smiles +every time I speak to the maids, and watches every +movement I make. I moved a fauteuil just now, and in +an instant she had possession of it, and stood over it +looking at me hard to see where I wanted it put. I +daresay we shall get on very well. We breakfasted at +12.30 all together—a very good breakfast, flowers on +the table, and everything most correct. The gentlemen +were amusing, all giving their experiences. Just as we +were finishing we heard someone coming, with the clank +of sabre, and those long, heavy spurs the Russians wear; +and a good-looking officer, Colonel Benckendorff, who +was attached to our Embassy, appeared. He will never +lose sight of us now until the ceremonies are over.</p> + +<p>We adjourned to the serre, and he put us au courant +of everything. He told us the crowd and confusion at +the Kremlin was indescribable (all the foreign Princes +are lodged there). He had all sorts of papers, invitations, +audiences, cartes de circulation, etc. W. is to +present his lettres de créance and all the Mission en +grande tenue at 10.30 to-day. (I am waiting now to +see them start.) W. has just been in, looking very well, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_35" title="pg 35"> </a> +as he always does in full uniform. He wears the Danish +Grand Cordon, he hasn't the Légion d'Honneur nor any +Russian decoration. Two Maîtres des Cérémonies, covered +with gold lace and embroideries, have arrived in +an ordinary Russian Court coupé—they have also an +Imperial gala carriage for the Ambassador, and two ordinary +Court carriages, and they have just started, quite +a crowd of people before the house to see them depart. +First went two Maîtres des Cérémonies, their coats covered +with gold embroidery; then W. alone in a gala carriage +with four horses, two footmen standing behind, two +mounted, and an écuyer. The rest of the Mission followed +in two ordinary Court carriages, all with the Imperial +liveries, which are not very handsome, long red +cloaks, with a sort of cocked hat. Benckendorff followed +alone in his private carriage.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus044.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Illustration: Colonel Benckendroff" id="illus044" title="Colonel Benckendroff"> +</a> +<p class="center small">Colonel Benckendorff<br > +From a photograph by Bergamasco St Petersburg</p> +</div> + +<p>Our big footmen figured for the first time—the four +in their blue and silver livery were at the door when +the Maîtres des Cérémonies arrived, and Pierson with his +chain in the anteroom. They looked very well; Lhermite +and our coachman saw the whole thing, and were +not at all impressed with carriages, liveries, or horses. +They said the carriages were absolutely shabby, the +liveries neither well made nor well put on, and the horses +beneath criticism. They do look extraordinarily small +before those great heavy state carriages, rather like rats, +as Hubert says—"Quand on verra les nôtres ce sera une +surprise," for they are enormous.</p> + +<p>What do you think I did as soon as they had all gone? +I had rather an inspiration—I told the maids to bring +me my blue court train (they have unpacked some of +the boxes, the jewels are all right, and locked up in a +coffre-fort in W.'s room, but can't find one of Delannoy's +caisses; I suppose it will turn up though, as +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_36" title="pg 36"> </a> +Pontécoulant says the compte was quite right when we +arrived yesterday, all the boxes here). I then locked the +door of the ballroom, stationed Pierson outside, with +strict orders not to let anyone in, put on my train over +my brown cloth dress, put Adelaïde and Mdme. Hubert +at one end of the room, and whisked backwards and +forwards, making them low curtseys (they were rather +embarrassed). I have never worn a train in my life, as +you know, and I wanted to see how it would go. It +seems perfectly cut, and follows every movement, and +doesn't get twisted around my ankles. The maids were +quite satisfied, and told me it worked beautifully, particularly +when I backed across the room. Madame +Jaurès, wife of Admiral Jaurès, permanent French Ambassador +to Russia, told me such hideous tales yesterday, +when she came to see me, of women getting +nervous and entangled in their trains when they backed +away from the Emperor, that I thought I had better +take some precautions. I indulged in those antics for +about twenty minutes, then unlocked the door, released +Pierson, and went upstairs to the lingerie to see how +my unpacking was getting on. The missing trunk had +just arrived, and my two women, with the little Russian +maid, whose eyes opened wide when she saw the +quantity of dresses being produced, and W.'s man were +putting things to rights.</p> + +<p>The gentlemen got back to a late breakfast, much +pleased with their reception. They were received in a +small palace outside of Moscow,<sup><a href="#fn4" id="r4">[4]</a></sup> as the Emperor makes +his formal entrée into the town to-morrow only. They +found the Emperor very amiable, talking quite easily, +saying something to everyone. He had on the Grand +Cordon of the Légion d'Honneur. They were all presented +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_37" title="pg 37"> </a> +also to the Empress. W. said she was very +gracious and charming; remembered quite well having +seen us in Paris. We were presented to her by the +Prince of Wales, Exhibition year. He said she recalled +the Princess of Wales, not so tall, and had splendid eyes.</p> + +<p>Benckendorff stayed to breakfast, and we told him +his place would be always ready for him at breakfast +and dinner. The hours of standing apparently will be +something awful. About 3.30 Mdme. Jaurès came for +me, and we went to see Lady Thornton, who is Doyenne +of the Corps Diplomatique, but didn't find her. +The Jaurès have just arrived themselves with all the +Corps Diplomatique from Petersburg. They said the +starting from there was frightfully mismanaged, not +nearly carriages enough for the people and their luggage. +The Ambassadors furious, railway officials distracted, +a second train had to be prepared which made +a long delay, and a general uproar. The only man who +was quite quiet and happy was Mr. Mackay (Silver King +from California). He formed part of the United States +Mission, had his own private car attached to the train, +in which were Mrs. Mackay and Mr. and Mrs. Hunt +(U. S. Minister and his wife), and was absolutely independent.</p> + +<p>After leaving our cards we drove through the +Tverskaya, the main street. There were quantities of +people, and vehicles of every description, from the Ambassadors' +carriages (all with small, black Russian horses, +a Russian coachman in caftan and flat cap, and a gorgeous +chasseur, all gold braid, and hat with feathers, +beside him), to the most ordinary little drosky or fiacre. +Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, passed us going very +quickly with the regular Russian attelage—3 horses, one +scarcely harnessed, galloping almost free on one side.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_38" title="pg 38"> </a></p> + +<p>All the houses are dressed with red and gold draperies, +and immense tribunes put up all along the +street, as the procession passes through it from one end +to the other when the Emperor makes his formal entrance +to-morrow. There are crowds of peasants and +country people, all the men in flannel shirts tucked into +their trousers, and the women with a handkerchief or +little shawl over their heads. They don't look the least +gay, or excited, or enthusiastic; on the contrary, it is +generally a sad face, principally fair, and blue eyes. +They stand, apparently a compact mass, in the middle +of the street, close up to the carriages, which can +scarcely get on—then comes a little detachment of +Cossacks (most curious looking, quite wild, on very +small horses, and enormous long lances), rides into the +crowd and over them. They make no resistance, don't +say anything, and close up again, as soon as the carriage +passes—and so it goes on all day.</p> + +<p>I was quite excited when we drove into the Kremlin—it +is enormous, really a city, surrounded by a great +crenellated wall, with high towers at intervals, quantities +of squares, courts, churches, palaces, barracks, terraces, +etc. The view of the town from one of the terraces +overlooking the river is splendid, but the great interest +is the Kremlin itself. Numbers of gilt domes, pink and +green roofs, and steeples. It seemed to me that pink +predominated, or was it merely the rose flush of the +sunset which gave a beautiful colour to everything. We +saw of course the great bell, and the tower of Ivan the +Terrible (from where they told us he surveyed massacres +of hundreds of his soldiers), everywhere a hurrying, busy +crowd (though always quiet).</p> + +<p>Thanks to our "Carte de Circulation" we pass everywhere, +though stopped at every moment. We crossed, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_39" title="pg 39"> </a> +among other things, a procession of servants, and minor +court officials, with quantities of silver dishes, flagons, +etc., some great swell's dinner being sent from the Imperial +Palace. We went from one great square to another, +stopping at the Palace where all the fêtes are to +be. There we found one or two Court officials whom +Mdme. Jaurès knew, and they showed us as much as +they could, but everybody is "sur les dents," and nothing +ready; and in spite of all the precautions one feels that +there is a strong undercurrent of nervousness. We +went to the Church de l'Assomption, where the Coronation +is to take place. There too we found officials, +who showed us our places, and exactly where the Court +would be. The church is small, with a great deal of +gilding and painting. All the tribunes are ready, and +what we shall feel like when the ceremony is over I +am sure I don't know. It will last about three hours +and a half, and we stand all the time. There is not a +vestige of a seat in the Tribune Diplomatique—merely +a sort of rail or "barre d'appui" where one can lean back +a little.</p> + +<p>We lingered a little on the terrace overlooking the +river where there is a fine view of the town, and came +out by the Porte St. Sauveur, where everyone, Emperor +and peasant, uncovers. I was glad to get home +and rest a little before dinner, but I have had a delightful +afternoon.</p> + +<p>I will finish this evening, as the bag goes to-morrow. +We had a pleasant dinner, our personnel only, and +Colonel Benckendorff, who told us all we had to do +these days. The day of the Coronation we meet at the +German Embassy (General Schweinitz, who married +Anna Jay, is Doyen of the Corps Diplomatique), and +go all together to the Kremlin. The hour of rendezvous +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_40" title="pg 40"> </a> +is 8 there, and as it is quite far off, and the gala +carriages go on a walk, we must leave here at 7, and +get up at Heaven knows what hour. What do you +think we will look like in full Court dress at that hour +in the morning? Our dinner was very good—wines, +fruit, etc. W. complimented Lhermite.</p> + +<p>To-morrow we start at 11 for the Palace of Prince +Dolgourouky, Governor of Moscow, from where we see +the Emperor pass on his way to the Kremlin. It is +not far away, but the streets are so barricaded and shut +up that we must make a long détour. The most stringent +measures are taken, all windows closed, no canes +nor umbrellas allowed, and a triple line of troops all +along the route. The maids are much excited. They +have places in one of the Tribunes, and M. Lhermite is +going to escort them. In some marvellous way they +have been able to communicate with the Russian maids, +and have given me various pieces of information. I +have left the gentlemen all smoking in the serre, except +W., who retired to his own quarters, as he had some +despatches to write. He has had a long talk with +Jaurès this afternoon, and has also seen Sir Edward +Thornton, British Ambassador. The house is quite +quiet—the court-yard asleep, as no carriages or horses +have been out to-night. We have two ordinary Russian +landaus, with those fast little horses, for our every-day +outings, as the big coupé d'Orsay only goes out on +state occasions.</p> + +<p>The detective has made his report, and says the Nihilists +will do nothing to-morrow—<em>perhaps</em> the night of +the gala at the Opéra. It is curious to live in such a +highly charged atmosphere, and yet I am less nervous—I +wonder why—the excitement I suppose of the whole +thing. Well, Good-night, Dear; I would say it in +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_41" title="pg 41"> </a> +Russian if I could, but so far all I have learnt is "Tchai," +which means tea, and "Karosch," which seems to be +an exclamation of delighted admiration. The little +maid says it every time I appear in a new garment.</p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France à Moscou</span>,<br > +<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br > +Mardi, May 22d, 1883.</p> + +<p>How shall I ever begin to describe to you, Dear, the +wonderful life we are leading. Everything is unlike anything +I have ever seen. I suppose it is the beginning +of the real far-off East. This morning I am sitting at +the window reading and writing, and looking out into +the court-yard, which is a never-failing interest—such +quantities of people always there. The first thing I +hear in the morning is Pontécoulant's voice. He is +there every day at eight o'clock, conferring with Leroy +and Hubert, examining the horses and carriages, deciding +which ones are to be used, and giving orders for the +day.</p> + +<p>Then arrive the two Russian landaus which go all +day, and very different they look from our beautiful +equipages and big important servants. Then comes +Lhermite, rattling off, in a low pony cart, with the boy +from the Consulate along-side of him. He goes to +market every day, and nearly has a fit because he can't +talk himself, and he knows they are all lying, and stealing, +and imposing upon him generally. In one corner +there is a group of little Russian horses tied to the stable +doors, with Russian soldiers fussing over them. They +have been sent from one of the cavalry barracks for the +gentlemen to ride.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_42" title="pg 42"> </a></p> + +<p>In every direction men are cleaning carriages, saddles, +harness, liveries; and with such little noise—they are +extraordinarily quiet.</p> + +<p class="author">May 22d, 5.30.</p> + +<p>We have just got back from the Governor's palace; +and to-night the Emperor is safe in the Kremlin.</p> + +<p>It was a marvellous day. We started (the whole +Mission) at 10.30 this morning, W. and I alone in the +d'Orsay, which looked very handsome. It is dark blue +with white stripes, like all our carriages, and lined with +blue satin of rather a lighter shade. The men were +in demi-gala, blue plush breeches, white silk stockings, +and high hats (not tricornes), with silver bands and +cords. Thornton, the English coachman, looked very +smart, and handled his big black horses perfectly. The +gentlemen told us he used very strong language when +he got back to the stables over the abomination of the +Moscow pavement. We were preceded as usual by +Richard and Benckendorff in a light carriage. I wore +one of Philippe's dresses, brown gauze embroidered in +velvet flowers, all the front écru lace, and an ecru straw +bonnet, with a vieux rose velvet crown.</p> + +<p>I was much amused while I was dressing to hear various +members of the party in the lingerie, "Madame, +voulez-vous me coudre un bouton," "les plumes de mon +chapeau ne tiennent pas," etc., even Thornton came in +to have his lace cravate tied. We were a long time getting +to Prince Dolgourouky's palace; not that it is far +away, but the streets are barricaded in every direction, +however I didn't mind—the crowd was so interesting, +packed tight; they had been standing for hours, they +told us, such pale, patient faces, but so <em>un</em>joyous; no +jokes, nor bits of songs, nor good-natured scuffling; so +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_43" title="pg 43"> </a> +unlike our Paris crowd on a great fête day, laughing and +chaffing, and commenting freely on everything; and +certainly very much unlike the American-Irish crowd +at home in New York, on the 4th of July or St. Patrick's +day. I remember quite well putting boxes of fire-crackers +in a tin pail to frighten the horses, and throwing +numerous little petards under people's feet, but no +one seemed to mind. Fancy the effect of a pailful of +fire-crackers exploding in any part of Moscow to-day. +The tribunes covered with red cloth, or red and gold, +crammed; and armies of soldiers, mounted and on foot, +in every direction; and yet we were only in the side +streets. The real crowd was in the Tverskaya where +the cortége was to pass.</p> + +<p>When we finally arrived we were received by the +Governor's two nieces, Madame Mansouroff and Princess +Obolenski. The Prince, like all the other Russian +noblemen, took part in the cortége. All our colleagues +were there, but the Duc de Montpensier was +the only special envoy. All the other foreign Princes +were riding with the Emperor's suite. It was almost a +female gathering, though of course all the men of the +Corps Diplomatique were there. We waited some little +time in the large drawing-room, where many presentations +were made; and then had a very handsome breakfast, +people talking easily, but the Russians visibly +nervous and preoccupied. As soon as it was over we +went out on the balconies, where we remained until the +cortége had passed. They brought us tea at intervals, +but I never stirred from my chair until the end.</p> + +<p>It was a beautiful sight as we looked down—as far +as one could see, right and left, flags, draperies, principally +red and gold, green wreaths, flowers and uniforms—the +crowd of people well kept back behind a +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_44" title="pg 44"> </a> +triple row of soldiers, the middle of the street perfectly +clear, always a distant sound of bells, trumpets, and +music. A salute of cannon was to let us know when +the Emperor left Petrofski, the small palace just outside +the walls where he has been all these days. As the time +drew near one felt the anxiety of the Russians, and +when the first coup sounded, all of them in the Palace +and in the street crossed themselves. As the procession +drew near the tension was intense. The Governor's Palace +is about half way between the gate by which the +Emperor entered and the Kremlin. He had all that +long street to follow at a foot's pace. As soon as he +entered the Kremlin another cannon would tell his +people he was safe inside.</p> + +<p>At last the head of the gorgeous procession appeared. +It was magnificent, but I can't begin to tell you the +details. I don't even remember all I saw, but you will +read it all in the papers, as of course all their correspondents +are here. There were quantities of troops of +all descriptions, the splendid chevaliers-gardes looked +very imposing with their white tunics and silver cuirasses; +both horses and men enormous. What I liked +best were the red Cossacks (even their long lances red). +They look perfectly wild and uncivilized and their little +horses equally so, prancing and plunging all the time.</p> + +<p>The most interesting thing to me was the deputations +from all the provinces of this vast Empire—Kirghis, +Moguls, Tartars, Kalmucks, etc. There was a magnificent +chief from the Caucase, all in white, with jewelled +sword and high cap (even from where we were, so high +above the crowd, we saw the flash of the diamonds); +the Khan of Khiva, and the Emir of Bokhara, both with +high fur caps, also with jewels on cap and belt. A young +fellow, cousin I think of Prince Dolgourouky, came +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_45" title="pg 45"> </a> +and stood near me, and told me as well as he could who +the most important people were. Bells going all the +time (and the Moscow bells have a deep, beautiful +sound), music, the steady tramp of soldiers, and the +curious, dull noise of a great crowd of people.</p> + +<p>Then a break in the troops, and a long procession of +gala court carriages passed, with six horses and six runners, +a man to each horse, with all the grands-maitres +and high officials of the Court, each man covered with +gold lace and embroidery, and holding his staff of office, +white with a jewel at the top. After that more troops, +the Emperor's body-guard, and then the Emperor himself. +He was in full uniform, riding quite alone in front +on his little white horse which he had ridden in the Turkish +campaign. He looked quite composed and smiling, +not a trace of nervousness (perhaps a little pale), returned +all the salutations most graciously, and looked +up, bowed and smiled to our balcony. A little distance +behind him rode his two sons, and close up to him on +the left rode the Duke of Edinburgh in red; any bomb +thrown at the Emperor must have killed the English +Prince.</p> + +<p>Then followed a long suite of Princes—some of their +uniforms, Austrian, Greek, and Montenegrian standing +out well. From that moment there was almost silence +on the balcony; as the Emperor disappeared again all +crossed themselves, and everyone waited for the welcome +sound from the Kremlin.</p> + +<p>After a long interval, always troops passing, came the +Empress. She was with her daughter, the little Grand +Duchess Xenia, both in Russian dress. The carriage +was shut, a coupé, but half glass, so we saw them perfectly, +and the high head-dress (Kakoshnik) and white +veil, spangled with silver was very becoming. The carriage +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_46" title="pg 46"> </a> +was very handsome, all gold and paintings; six +white horses led, and running footmen. The Empress +and her daughter were seated side by side, and on a +curious sort of <em>outside</em> seat, on one side of the coupé, +was a page, dressed in red and yellow, a sort of cloth of +gold, with high feathers in his cap. The Empress looked +grave and very pale, but she smiled and bowed all the +time. It must have been an awful day for her, for she +was so far behind the Emperor, and such masses of +troops in between, that he might have been assassinated +easily, she knowing nothing of it.</p> + +<p>There was again a great sound of bells and music when +the Empress passed, all the people crossing themselves, +but the great interest of course was far ahead with the +Emperor. A great procession of Court carriages followed +with all the Princesses, Grandes-Maîtresses, etc., +and endless troops still, but no one paid much attention; +every ear was strained to hear the first sound from the +Kremlin. When the cannon boomed out the effect was +indescribable. All the Russians embraced each other, +some with tears running down their cheeks, everybody +shook hands with everybody, and for a moment the emotion +was contagious—I felt rather a choke in my throat. +The extraordinary reaction showed what the tension had +been.</p> + +<p>After rather a whirl of felicitations we went into the +drawing-room for a few minutes, had tea (of course), and +I talked to some of the people whom I had not seen before. +Montpensier came up, and was very civil and nice. +He is here as a Spanish Prince. He told me he had been +frightfully nervous for the Emperor. They all knew +that so many Nihilists were about—he added, "Il était +superbe, leur Empereur, si crâne!"</p> + +<p>We had to wait a few moments for the carriage and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_47" title="pg 47"> </a> +got home about 5, having been standing a long time. +We were almost as long getting back to the Embassy as +we were coming. There was a dense crowd everywhere, +and the same little detachments of Cossacks galloping +hard into the midst of the people, and apparently doing +no harm to anyone.</p> + +<p>I will finish now before going to bed—happily all our +dissipations finish early. We dined quietly with only +our own Embassy and Benckendorff, and then drove +about for an hour or so looking at the illuminations, +which were not very wonderful. We met all our colleagues +doing the same thing. W. has just had his report +from the detective. He said all the Nihilists were +scattered along the route to-day, but evidently had no +intention of doing anything. It seems curious they +should be allowed to remain, as of course the Russian +police know them quite as well as our man does.</p> + +<p>I have just had a notice that the Empress will receive +me to-morrow. I will try and write a few lines always +late before going to bed, and while the whole thing is +still fresh in my memory. If this letter is slightly incoherent +it is because I have had so many interruptions. +The maids can hardly undress me, they are so anxious to +tell me all they have seen. It certainly was a magnificent +sight to-day, and the fears for the Emperor gave +such a dramatic note to the whole thing. My eyes are +rather tired, looking so hard, I suppose.</p> + +<p class="author">Wednesday, May 23d.</p> + +<p>Well, Dear, I have had my audience. It was most interesting. +I started at 11 o'clock in the gala carriage, +Hubert driving me, as he wanted to go once to the +Kremlin with the carriage before the day of the Coronation. +It seems there is a slight rise in the road just as +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_48" title="pg 48"> </a> +one gets to the gate, which is also narrow. I wore the +blue brocade with bunches of cherries, the front of +moussé velvet, and a light blue crêpe bonnet, neither +gloves nor veil. Benckendorff and Richard, as "officer +de service," went ahead in a small carriage. Benckendorff +said I must have one of my own Embassy, and +Richard thought it would amuse him to come. W. +rather demurred—was afraid we wouldn't be serious +enough, but we promised him to be absolutely dignes. +Do you remember at the first official reception at the +Instruction Publique he never would let you and Pauline +stand behind me—he was afraid we would make unseemly +jokes, or laugh at some of the dresses.</p> + +<p>Our progress to the Kremlin was slow. The carriage +is heavy, goes always at a foot's pace, and has a swinging +motion which is very disagreeable. I felt rather shy, +sitting up there alone, as of course there is a great deal +of glass, so that I was much "en évidence." Everybody +looked, and the people in the street crowded close +up to the carriage. We found grand preparations when +we got to the Palace—the great staircase covered with +a red cloth, and every variety of chamberlain, page, +usher, and officer on the stairs and at the door. Benckendorff +and Richard helped me out of my carriage, +and Richard's impulse was to give me his arm to go +upstairs, but he was waved back imperatively, and a +magnificent gentleman in a velvet coat, all lace and embroidery, +advanced, and conducted me up the grand +staircase, always a little behind me. I passed through a +hedge of uniforms and costumes. When we came to +the landing where there was a piquet of soldiers my +attendant said—"La France," and they presented +arms.</p> + +<p>At the top of the staircase, at the door of the first of +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_49" title="pg 49"> </a> +a long enfilade of salons, I was handed over, with a very +low bow, from my first gentleman to another of the same +description, equally all gold lace, and embroidery; and +so I passed through all the rooms, always meeting a +new chamberlain in each one. The rooms are large and +high, with vaulted roofs like a cathedral, little or no +furniture (I believe the Russian Court never sits down +except at meals). We made a halt in one of the salons, +where we found several maids of honour of the Empress, +who were presented to me. They were all dressed much +alike in long, light dresses, and wore their badge—the +Empress's chiffre in diamonds on a blue ribbon. While +I was talking to them a procession of diplomats and +special envoys passed through the room. They had just +been received by the Empress.</p> + +<p>Presently appeared Prince Galitzin—Grand Maître +des Cérémonies, attired in red velvet and lace, and embroidery, +who said, "Sa Majesté sera bientôt prête." I +continued my progress with the same ceremonial, passed +through the salle du trône, which is handsome, white +and gold; and came to a standstill in the next salon, evidently +the ante-chamber of the room where I was to be +received, as the two colossal negroes who always accompany +the Emperor and Empress were standing at the +door. They were dressed in a sort of Asiatic costume, +cashmeres, turbans, scimitars, etc. I was received by the +Princess Kotchoubey and Count Pahlen, Arch Grand +Maître des Cérémonies. The Princess K. is the mother +of Princess Lise Troubetzkoi (whom you will remember +in Paris as having a salon the first days of the Republic +where political men of all opinions assembled—Thiers +was her great friend). She was a little old lady, dressed +entirely in white, with a jewel low on her forehead. +Count Pahlen was dressed in blue velvet and embroidery, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_50" title="pg 50"> </a> +and carried his staff of office, white, with a large sapphire +on the top.</p> + +<p>We talked a few minutes, when apparently there came +a signal from the Empress. The doors flew open, and +the Princess advanced to the threshold, making a +beautiful curtsey (I am sure mine was not half so good), +she seemed to go straight down to the ground, said—"J'ai +l'honneur d'annoncer l'Ambassadrice de France." +She then withdrew to one side—I made a curtsey at +the door, which was instantly shut, another, a little farther +on (the regulation is 3), but hadn't time for my +third, as the Empress, who was standing in the middle +of the room, advanced a few steps, shook hands and +begged me to sit down. I hadn't seen her for some +years, since she came to Paris with her husband, then +Grand Duke Héritier (his father was still alive), and I +didn't find her changed. She recalls the Princess of +Wales, but is not so tall; has beautiful dark eyes, and a +very gracious manner. She was dressed almost as I +was, but in a different color, yellow brocade with +bunches of plums, splendid lace in front, and a beautiful +pearl necklace, three rows of large stones (my one row +of fairly large ones was nowhere). I think I stayed +about 20 minutes.</p> + +<p>We talked easily enough. She said the long day yesterday +had been very fatiguing, the going at a foot's +pace all that long distance with the peculiar swinging +motion of the heavy gala carriage had tired her very +much; also the constant bowing right and left, and the +quantities of flags and draperies waving under her eyes. +She didn't say anything about being nervous, so of +course I didn't. She gave me the impression of having +extraordinary self-control. I asked her what the little +Grand Duchess thought of it all. She said that she +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_51" title="pg 51"> </a> +really didn't know—that she didn't speak, but looked at +everything and bowed to all the people exactly as she +did.</p> + +<p>She said the day of the sacre would be very long and +tiring, particularly beginning so early in the morning; +that she was very matinale, quite accustomed to getting +up early—was I? "Fairly—but I hadn't often been up +and dressed in full dress and diamonds at seven in the +morning." "You would prefer a ceremony by candle-light." +"I think we should all look better at 9 o'clock +in the evening." She laughed, and then we talked a +little; Paris, chiffons, etc. She said some of her dresses +had come from Philippe. We talked a little about Moscow +and the Kremlin. She asked me what I had seen. +When I spoke of the church and the tribunes for the +Corps Diplomatique with <em>no</em> seats, and a very long +ceremony, she was quite indifferent; evidently didn't +think it was of the slightest consequence whether we +were tired or not; and I don't suppose it is.</p> + +<p>When she congédied me the door flew open (she evidently +had a bell under her chair which she touched with +her feet); she shook hands, and walked immediately to +a door at the other end of the room; so I didn't have to +back out all the way. Princess Kotchoubey and Count +Pahlen were waiting for me. The Princess said, "Sa +Majesté vous a gardé bien longtemps, Madame l'Ambassadrice. +J'espère que vous avez été contente." Pahlen +also made me a polite phrase. They both accompanied +me across the room, and then the door opened, +and another chamberlain took possession of me. Just +as we got to the door the Princess was saying something +about her daughter "devenue absolument une Parisienne," +when it opened; she stopped short in the middle +of her phrase, and made me a little curtsey—her function +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_52" title="pg 52"> </a> +was over once I passed into the other room. It +was too funny.</p> + +<p>I was conducted through all the rooms and down the +great staircase with the same ceremony. I found Richard +waiting in one of the big rooms, with the "Dames +du portrait," but this time he didn't venture to offer +his arm to the Ambassadress, and followed with Benckendorff +at a respectful distance.</p> + +<p>I found my carriage surrounded by an admiring crowd. +The horses are handsome and enormous, particularly +here where the race is small, also the French gala liveries +are unlike anything else. Hubert, my own coachman, +sits up so straight and pompous on his box, and looks +so correct I hardly know him. The movement of the +gala carriage is something awful, makes me really ill.</p> + +<p class="author">May 23d, 10 o'clock.</p> + +<p>We have had a quiet evening—some of the gentlemen +have gone off to hear the famous Bohémiennes in +one of the public gardens. They have been leaving +cards all day on the special envoys, Princes, etc. W. +and Pontécoulant are having a conference, and I have +got into my tea-gown, and am reading a little, writing +a little, and being generally lazy. W. and I also did a +round of visits this afternoon.</p> + +<p>As naturally none of our servants know either a word +of Russian, or the streets of Moscow, we took with us +the little polygot youth from the Consulate, who knows +equally well French, Russian, and German. We gave +him our list, and he went ahead in a drosky.</p> + +<p>We found no one but the Princess Obolenski, who +spoke at once about the Emperor's entrée; said no one +could imagine the relief it was to all of them to know +that he was actually safe in the Kremlin. They had evidently +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_53" title="pg 53"> </a> +all dreaded that day, and of course notwithstanding +all the precautions a bomb <em>could</em> have been thrown. +The thrower, par exemple, would have been torn to pieces +by the crowd; but what makes the strength of the Nihilists +is that they all count their lives as nothing in what +they consider the great cause.</p> + +<p>How hideous the life of the Emperor and the Empress +must be. They say they find letters on their tables, in +their carriages, coming from no one knows where, telling +them of all the horrors in store for them and their +children.</p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France, à Moscou</span>,<br > +<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br > +Thursday, 24 Mai, 1883.</p> + +<p>I am having a quiet morning. We have no particular +function to-day. Madame Jaurès is coming to get +me after breakfast, and we are going to do a little sightseeing. +The first thing I hear in the morning always is +Pontécoulant's voice in the court talking to Leroy and +Hubert, and examining the horses. The pair we had +in the gala carriage yesterday went beautifully. Hubert +was rather nervous, as there is a steep little bit +just as one passes through the gates of the Kremlin—it +is also narrow, and those big, unwieldy carriages are +not easily handled. The pavement is so rough that I +was actually a little sick yesterday after I came in.</p> + +<p>I was called off by a visit from Prince Orloff (Russian +Ambassador in France). He comes almost every day, +and is much interested in all our doings—said the carriage +and general style of everything was much admired +yesterday. About two Madame Jaurès came, and we +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_54" title="pg 54"> </a> +started off sight-seeing. The admiral, Jaurès, and one or +two of the young men met us at the Kremlin, and we +went over the two palaces—new and old. The old one +is most curious; small, dark, low rooms, vaulted ceilings, +all most elaborately ornamented in Byzantine style; a +small steep, twisting staircase; large porcelain stoves, and +absolutely uncomfortable. We saw the dining-room +where the Emperor and Empress will dine in state the +day of the Coronation. The new palace is quite different—high, +light, large rooms, white, which must look +beautiful at night lighted by thousands of wax candles. +In the great ballroom the two Throne chairs are on +a gold dais with great curtains of purple velvet and ermine—very +royal looking.</p> + +<p>(I wonder if the sight of all this splendour will destroy +my mental equilibrium—I assure you I felt rather like +a queen myself yesterday, seated up alone in the great +gala carriage, with everybody bowing and gaping.) +There is a splendid view over the Kremlin, the river and +the town from all the palace windows. We went again +to the church of the Assomption, where we found Count +Pahlen superintending. He showed us some of the +famous paintings—among others a Madonna with a +<em>black</em> face, a splendid diamond necklace, and large sapphires +and emeralds disposed about her person. There +are jewels about everywhere; on pictures, brackets, etc. +Pahlen told me, when I was noticing them, that the +Russian Court was famous for coloured stones, particularly +emeralds and sapphires—told me to notice the +Grand Duchess Constantine's emeralds, and the Empress's +sapphires. I will, if ever I get time to go into details, +but everything is on such an enormous scale here.</p> + +<p>He also asked me if I was accustomed to <em>standing</em> +three or four hours, and if not he would suggest a <em>pliant</em> +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_55" title="pg 55"> </a> +"dissimulé sous les plis de la traine," and showed me +with pride the rails, covered with red velvet, in our tribune, +which he had had put there so we should be comfortable! +It will really be an awful day, particularly as +we have to begin it so early, but I suppose we shan't die +of it.</p> + +<p>I came back about 4, changed my dress for something +more élegant (the blue silk with long blue redingote +and white lace), and started off again in the d'Orsay for +some visits (the little boy in the drosky going in front). +I found the Princess Radziwill in two small rooms (she +received me in her bedroom), all she could find for herself +and her husband in Moscow—and that at an awful +price (and she is Russian born). I also found Countess +Pahlen, wife of the Grand Master, who was very smiling, +and suggested that we should have an evening reception, +which would be much appreciated. Of course +we shall be delighted, and had even thought of a ball, +but all those things had been settled in Russia before we +left Paris. The Russian Court wished to have <em>one</em> ball +only, as the Coronation functions were numerous and +fatiguing, and that is to be at General Schweinitz's +(Doyen of the Corps Diplomatique).</p> + +<p>After leaving Countess Pahlen I went again to the +Kremlin, the d'Orsay always exciting much attention. +I had the greatest difficulty in finding out the Duchesse +d'Edimbourg, for whom I had to write myself down, and +could find no servant who spoke either German, French, +or English. The crowd and confusion was something +awful; apparently the whole of Moscow was going +wherever I was—Ambassadors, Generals, Chamberlains, +maids-of-honour, servants with tea, crowding in all the +corridors. You never saw such a sight, and just as +many more in the court-yards—carriages, soldiers, work-people, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_56" title="pg 56"> </a> +carpenters, bales of stuffs, and planks for stands, +and all in that beautiful cadre—the old gray walls looked +so soft, and the marvellous effects of colour everywhere. +I was well shaken up, such a pavement. I met the Duc +de Montpensier at every turn, sight-seeing too. We +had a quiet dinner, the personnel only with Benckendorff. +The gentlemen had been going all around too +all the afternoon leaving cards. They all say the pavement +is most trying.</p> + +<p>W. and Pontécoulant have come in late as usual for a +last little talk. I told them what Countess Pahlen had +said about an evening reception. W. had had the same +idea. I think the house is large enough—the ballroom +ought to light well, all white with yellow satin furniture. +We must have a talk with Lhermite about flowers; he +says there are none here, his come from Paris.</p> + +<p class="author">Friday, 25th.</p> + +<p>The men of the Embassy went off early, as they had +no end of audiences with all the Grand Dukes; uncles +and brothers of the Emperor. I walked about a little +with Adelaïde, but I didn't find that very pleasant. It +is curious I never see a lady of any kind walking, and +we always attract attention. It is very warm, the sun +really powerful. I breakfasted alone in the big dining-room, +an elaborate meal, one maître d'hôtel and two +tall footmen waiting upon me—I was rather sorry I +hadn't asked for tea and cold chicken in my dressing-room.</p> + +<p>At 3.30 the gentlemen all reappeared, put on their +Austrian decorations, and we started for the reception +of the Arch Duke and Arch Duchess Albert of +Austria. We found quantities of people, as all the Corps +Diplomatique had been convoked. W. and I went as +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_57" title="pg 57"> </a> +usual in the d'Orsay. I wore my crème voile with +lace and embroidery, straw bonnet with crème feathers, +lined with dark blue velvet. We waited some little time +in a large hall or anteroom where was Count Wolkenstein, +Austrian Ambassador, who presented all the suite +of the Arch Duke. Then appeared the Arch Duke +alone—said his wife was coming in a few moments. We +had known him in Paris—he had dined with us at the +Quai d'Orsay when W. was Foreign Minister, our Exhibition +year. He is a tall, distinguished looking man. It +was when he was dining at the Elysée one night with +Maréchal MacMahon that such a funny contre-temps +occurred. Their dinners were always very good and +soignés, but evidently they had not thought about the +names of the dishes, and when we were well on with the +dinner we suddenly realized that something was wrong. +My neighbour said to me "Look at your menu," and +what did I see—"Glace à la Magenta"—"Gateau Solférino," +and I forget the third thing—all battles where the +Austrians had been beaten. I spoke to one of the household +about it afterwards who said "J'ai froid dans le +dos en pensant à ce que le Maréchal me dira." It seems +that when he was angry the Maréchal didn't mince matters, +and used most <em>emphatic</em> expressions. You can imagine +how carefully we studied the menu of our dinner +which came two days after—"Glace à la Régence," +"Gâteau Moka," etc., nothing compromising.</p> + +<p>While the Arch Duke was talking there was suddenly +a move, and he went to meet the Arch Duchess +who came in, crossed the room quickly, and asked us +to follow. We did, into a smaller room, W. and I alone. +She is very handsome, younger than he is, tall and slight, +dressed in a black dress with a great deal of lace, a very +long train, a handsome pearl necklace, and a high comb +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_58" title="pg 58"> </a> +of diamonds. She said she would like to make a stay in +Paris. After they had congédied us W. asked if he +might present the rest of the Mission, so I returned to +the large salon and saw various people to talk to, including +Count Apponyi, whom I had known in Paris, where +his father was Ambassador for years.</p> + +<p>We dined at home and went in the evening to a reception +at M. de Giers'—Foreign Minister. The rooms +were not large, and there were a great many people, +I should think more foreigners and diplomatists than +Russians. Princess Kotchoubey and Countess Pahlen +did the honours. Quantities of people were presented +to me—I shall never remember their names or their +faces. I wore fraise-écrasé velvet, the front covered with +white "point à l'aiguille." General Wolseley, who is here +with the Duke of Edinburgh, was presented. He is not +at all the real British type, small and dark, but very bright +eyes. I also had quite a talk with my Dutch friend +Schimmelpenninck, who assured me my toilettes were très +réussies, particularly the white one, this afternoon. I +had quite a talk too with the Hunts, who are very nice. +Both are tall and fine-looking, she always very well +dressed. The U.S. Mission is very distinguished—they +have Mr. and Mrs. Mackay with them, both very natural +and quiet; she of course has splendid jewels (they tell +me her sapphires are beautiful), but she wears them +quite simply, without any ostentation. There is also +Admiral Baldwin, who has his ship at Cronstadt, and two +charming young aides-de-camp, Rogers and Paul.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_59" title="pg 59"> </a></p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author">Saturday, May 26, 1883.</p> + +<p>Well, Dear, I am just alive, but nothing more, having +performed 5 Grand Duchesses. The gentlemen all went +off in full uniform at 11 to begin their audiences. I followed +later alone (they always go en bande) with Richard +going in the small carriage in front as officier de service +(which amuses us both perfectly). I wore the white +soft silk with Valenciennes that you liked, and the flower +hat. Benckendorff complimented me on my toilette. +It was a long affair getting to our different Princesses. +They are all lodged in the Kremlin, and the various palaces +connect with all sorts of passages and staircases, but +the corridors are narrow and the block something awful. +My first audience was with the Grand Duchess Michel. +Her husband is an uncle of the Emperor, and was for a +long time Governor of the Caucasus. When we finally +got to the door of the apartments I was received by 2 +Chamberlains (all gold and embroidery), who never left +me until they deposited me in the carriage at 5 o'clock—I +had started at 1.30. The ceremonial was always exactly +the same, one or two ladies-in-waiting were in the +room communicating with the one in which the Grand +Duchess was waiting. They announced "L'Ambassadrice +de France," I got through as many of my three regulation +curtseys as I could—I never really had time to +make the third, as they all advanced a few steps and +shook hands. The Grand Duchess Michel is a Baden +Princess, tall, slight, very intelligent, simply dressed in +black velvet, and of course a pearl necklace. She spoke +to me in English, French, and German, but the conversation +was mostly in French. She seemed well up in +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_60" title="pg 60"> </a> +French literature, and asked me what I thought of Zola's +"L'Assommoir," was really surprised when I said I +hadn't read it, nor in fact scarcely anything he wrote. She +considered it a marvel, and couldn't understand any +French woman not reading every word that came from +"un des plus puissants cerveaux du siècle." She knew +too all the pieces de théâtre, and when I expressed surprise +that she had had time to read so much, said her life +in the Caucasus was so lonely—no society of any kind, +and no resources outside of her own palace. I should +think she was a maïtresse femme.</p> + +<p>After leaving her I was taken in hand again by my two +chamberlains, and walked some distance across one or +two courts, always meeting more chamberlains escorting +colleagues, principally men, all in uniform and orders, +doing the same thing, and trying to get on as fast as +they could. My next visit was to the Grand Duchess +Constantine. When we got to the anteroom and small +salon we found them full of gentlemen, who proved to be +our Mission, who had arrived a few minutes before. That +made a slight change of programme, as the Grand +Duke decided to receive W. and me together with the +Duchess—accordingly we were received first, alone, in a +small room. The Grand Duke was standing close to the +door; the Grand Duchess in the centre of the room. He +is a sailor, looks very intelligent. She has been very +handsome, carries herself beautifully, and has a splendid +figure. He was in uniform—she in red velvet (she <em>didn't</em> +have on her emeralds—I suppose we shall see them all +to-morrow). They both talked very easily about all +sorts of things; Greece of course and the Schuylers, of +whom she spoke very warmly. Her daughter is the +Queen of Greece—I hope we shall see her, as I have +heard Gert talk so much about her. The Grand Duchess +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_61" title="pg 61"> </a> +said she was tired already, and the Ceremonies haven't +begun yet. She had received yesterday 100 ladies of +Moscow. They came in groups of 10, and she had to +find something to say to each one.</p> + +<p>As soon as the audience was over W. asked permission, +as usual, to present the rest of the Mission. I remained +in the outer salon talking to the ladies-in-waiting. The +apartment is high, with a splendid view over Moscow. +They pointed me out several churches and curious roofs—were +much interested in all my visits and my clothes, +supposed I had quantities of trunks.</p> + +<p>After that I departed again alone, and saw the Grand +Duchess Catherine, who was very amiable, but kept me a +few minutes only, as she had so many people to receive. +Then I took another long walk, and up several flights of +narrow, turning stairs (the chamberlains in front and +Richard behind) to the Duchesse d'Oldenburg. The +Belgian Mission was being received, so I waited in the +outer salon, and again W. and the gentlemen arrived, +and he and I were received together. Evidently they +like it better when we can go together, as it saves time +for them—and if we are tired, think what they must be. +I went off again alone, and was received by the Grand +Duchess Wladimir, who is charming—a German Princess. +She is young, a pretty figure, very well dressed in +white. She looked rather delicate, having just got over +a rather bad attack of measles. She dreads the fatigue +very much to-morrow, and had asked the Empress if she +might have a folding-chair, a pliant of some kind, but her +"demande n'a pas été accueillie favorablement. L'Imperatrice +elle-même sera debout tout le temps. Il faudrait +absolument que nous fassions comme elle." I didn't +mention my pliant, as I am quite sure no one will notice +to-morrow anything <em>I</em> do.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_62" title="pg 62"> </a></p> + +<p>That finished my audience, and I had been standing or +walking since I left the Embassy, so I was glad to find +the carriage, which was by no means easy. There were +quantities at the Kremlin, and as we never by any chance +came out at the same door by which we went in, and the +coachman was told to follow, he naturally had some difficulty +in getting it. Also it is raining hard, which complicates +matters. There are carpets down to the doors, +but so many people have passed over them that they are +just as wet and muddy as the streets. We met all the rest +of the Mission at the Embassy door, and then there was +a general détente, the men all calling for their servants +to get them out of their uniforms, and to bring beer and +cigars.</p> + +<p>W. came in to tea. He looked really done up—he +had been at it steadily since 12. There are so many +Princes and Grand Dukes without any wives. I am +writing in bits, but will finish as usual the last thing. We +have had a small dinner—the other French Embassy +(permanent), Lagrené, Consul, and Orloff. Benckendorff +of course. They all went away early, as our day +to-morrow is an awful one.</p> + +<p>It is pouring still, and we are rather melancholy at +the thought of our gala carriages, and blue and silver +liveries in a heavy rain. Just before dinner I had a visit +from Philippe, and he made various essais with my diadem +and feathers. He is to be here at six to-morrow +morning to coiffer me. He also requested that he might +see my dress so as to make his coiffure "harmoniser avec +l'ensemble." I wanted to see it too, so as to be sure that +everything was right, and the flowers well sewn on. It +is now reposing on one of the big arm-chairs in the dressing-room, +covered up with a sheet.</p> + +<p>My eyes are shutting of themselves, so I will stop. + +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_63" title="pg 63"> </a> +Please send all my letters on to America, as I never can +write <em>two</em> accounts of our life here.</p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France à Moscou</span>,<br > +<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br > +Dimanche, 27 Mai, 1883.</p> + +<p>I am perfectly exhausted, Dear, after the most beautiful, +bewildering, exhausting day I have ever gone +through. We got home at 4.30. I rested a little, had tea +as usual in my boudoir with W. and Richard, and will +write as much as I can while I am still under the impression +of all I have seen.</p> + +<p>I was up at 5.30, as we had to leave here at 7. Philippe +was very punctual—put on diadem and feathers +very well. Happily it was all blue, rather dark (as my +dress too was blue), and he remarked pleasantly, to put +me at my ease I think, and make me feel as comfortable +as I could at that hour of the morning, "Le bleu c'est +le fard de Madame." He couldn't understand that I +wouldn't let him maquiller my face—said all the Princesses +were painted—but I really couldn't go that.</p> + +<p>When I appeared in the drawing-room, the men of +the Embassy were very complimentary about my dress. +We went in our three carriages (I had the white moiré +cloak, trimmed with dark feathers over me), W. and I +and Pontécoulant in the first gala carriage driven by +Leroy (I wish you could have seen him, as much taken +up with <em>his dress</em> as I was with mine). He stood giving +directions to a quantity of understrappers, but never +touching harness, nor even whip, until we appeared, then +got on his box as we got into the carriage, settled himself +in a fine pose, and we started.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_64" title="pg 64"> </a></p> + +<p>The second gala carriage driven by Hubert (who +looked very well) came next, and then the d'Orsay. It +really was a very pretty cortége, and we were much +looked at and admired, as we drove very slowly, and +jolting very much, to the German Embassy. All our +colleagues came up about the same time. Some of the +gala carriages were good, the Austrian, but ours out and +out the best. No one else had three.</p> + +<p>We assembled in one of the large rooms of the palace, +and then walked through numerous rooms, galleries, and +finally through an open court, entirely covered with a +red carpet, and lined with soldiers and officers—every +description of uniform. The Chevalier-Gardes, magnificent +in their white tunics, silver cuirasses and helmets. +Happily it was fine—I don't know what we should have +done in the rain, and also so early in the morning the +sun was not gênant (as it was later in the day). The long +procession, the men in uniform and decorations; the +women in full dress, feathers and diadems, was most +effective.</p> + +<p>I left my cloak in the carriage, and didn't feel chilly, +but some of the women were uncomfortable, and had +little lace and fur tippets. We filed into the church +(which is small), and into the Diplomatic Tribune, and +settled ourselves quite easily—there was plenty of room. +The effect inside was dazzling: tapers, flowers, pictures, +jewels, quantities of women already seated, all in the +Kakoshnik, and a general impression of red and gold in +their costumes. All the Empress's ladies wear red velvet +trains, embroidered in gold. People seemed to be +coming in all the time. Deputations from the provinces, +officials of Moscow, officers, chamberlains, a moving +mass of colour. The costume of the Popes was gorgeous—cloth +of gold with very high jewelled mitres.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_65" title="pg 65"> </a></p> + +<p>We waited some time before the ceremony began, but +there was so much to see that we didn't mind, and from +time to time one of the officials came and stood with us +a little, explaining who all the people were. The whole +church was hung with red, and red carpets everywhere. +Just in the middle there was a high estrade, covered with +red velvet, and a great gold baldaquin with Imperial +eagles embroidered on it. It was all surrounded by a +gold balustrade, and on it were the two thrones. A little +lower on the same estrade were the places of the Princes +of the family, and the Foreign Princes.</p> + +<p>A little before 9 the Imperial family began to arrive. +Almost all the Grand Duchesses in trains of drap d'argent, +bordered with sable, and magnificent jewels. Then +there was a great sound of trumpets, and cheering outside +(those curious, suppressed Russian cheers), and they +told us the Emperor and Empress were coming. They +were preceded by an officer of the Chevalier-Gardes, with +sabre-à-nu. The Emperor was in full uniform, with the +blue ribbon of St. André. The Empress quite simple in +white and silver, the Imperial eagles embroidered on the +front of her dress; no diadem, no veil, nor jewels; +her train carried by 4 pages, her hair quite simply +done—she looked so young, quite like a school-girl. +Then followed a glittering suite of Princes, officers, +etc.</p> + +<p>The service was very long, the chanting quite fine; the +men have beautiful, deep voices—I cared less for the intoning, +they all end on such a peculiar high note. I +didn't like the looks of the Popes either—the long beards +worried me. Of course the real interest was when the +Emperor took the crown from the hands of the Pope +(kneeling before him) and put it on his own head. He +looked a magnificent figure, towering over everybody, + +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_66" title="pg 66"> </a> +as he stood there in his Imperial robes, cloth of gold +lined with ermine, and a splendid jewelled collar. The +crown looked high and heavy—made entirely of jewels.</p> + +<p>His two brothers, Grand Dukes Wladimir and Alexis, +put on his robes. The Grand Duke Wladimir always +stands close behind his brother. He has a stern, keen +face. He would be the Regent if anything should happen +to the Emperor, and I think his would be an iron +rule.</p> + +<p>As soon as the Emperor was crowned the Empress +left her seat, came to the middle of the platform, made +a deep curtsey to the Emperor, and knelt. Her court +ladies then gathered around her, and put on the Imperial +mantle, also in cloth of gold lined with ermine, and the +same jewelled collar like the Emperor's. When she was +dressed, the Emperor, stooping low over her, put on her +crown, a small one made entirely in diamonds, raised her +and kissed her. As she stood a moment she almost staggered +back under the weight of the mantle—the 4 pages +could hardly hold it.</p> + +<p>Then the long procession of Princes and Princesses +left their seats on the estrade, and passed before the +Sovereigns. First came his two brothers, Wladimir and +Alexis. They kissed the Emperor, then bent low before +the Empress, kissing her hand. She kissed them each +on the forehead. Next came the two young Princes, in +uniform like their father, wearing also the blue ribbon +of St. André, and the little Grand Duchess (aged 10) +in a short white dress, but the Kakoshnik.</p> + +<p>It was a pretty sight to see the children bowing and +curtseying low to their parents. Some of the ladies' +curtseys were wonderful—the Arch Duchess Charles +Louis extraordinarily graceful (I wonder how I ever shall +get through mine—I am certainly much less souple than +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_67" title="pg 67"> </a> +these ladies). When they had all passed the Emperor +went alone into the chapel to communier, and receive the +sacred oil—the Empress remained kneeling outside.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"> +<a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus078.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Illustration: The Emperor Crowning the Empress Church de l'Assomption" id="illus078" title="The Emperor Crowning the Empress Church de l'Assomption"> +</a> + +<p class="center">The Emperor Crowning the Empress Church de l'Assomption</p></div> + +<p>We had various incidents in our tribune—one or two +ladies fainted, but couldn't get out, they had to be +propped up against the rail, and brought round with fans, +salts, etc. We stood for three hours and a half.</p> + +<p>The Emperor and Empress left the church with the +same ceremony (we all following), and then there was +a curious function. Under a dais, still in their court +robes, their trains carried by six or eight officers, they +walked around the enceinte, going into three or four +churches to make their devotions, all of us and all the +other Princes following, all their suites, and an accompaniment +of bells, cannon, music, and cheers. (I forgot +to say that when the Emperor put his crown on his head +in the church, the cannon announced to his people that +their sovereign was crowned.)</p> + +<p>We had a few drops of rain, then the sun came out +strong, and I was rather wretched—however Général +Pittié came to my rescue, and shaded me with his hat (all +the men were bareheaded). There were tribunes all +along the route for the people who hadn't been able to +get into the church; in one of them all the younger members +of the Embassies, as of course <em>all</em> couldn't be got +inside. These two were all gold and red, filled with +women, mostly in white, and men in uniform. You can't +imagine what a gorgeous sight it was, and the crowd +below packed tight, all gaping at the spectacle.</p> + +<p>We didn't dirty our dresses (the trains of course we +carried in our arms), I don't know why, as the red carpet +was decidedly damp and muddyish in places. We +finally arrived at the Vieux Palais, where we were to +breakfast, and the Emperor and Empress were also to + +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_68" title="pg 68"> </a> +have a little respite before dining in state with their +people.</p> + +<p>We had a handsome breakfast, quantities of gold and +silver plate, and many Russian dishes. I didn't much like +the looks of the soup, which was clear, but had various +things floating about on it—uncooked fish, little black +balls, which I thought might be caviar, which I don't ever +like; and I was rather wondering what I should eat (I was +very hungry), when my neighbor, Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, +suggested I should share his meal. He didn't +like Russian cookery either, so he had intrigued with a +friendly official, who was going to bring him a cold +chicken and a bottle of good red wine. I accepted joyfully, +and we had a very good breakfast.</p> + +<p>I think we were about three-quarters of an hour at +table, and it was very pleasant to sit down after those +hours of standing. When the breakfast was over, a little +after two, we were conducted to the Imperial dining-room, +a square, low room in the old Kremlin with a +vaulted ceiling, and heavy Byzantine decorations; quantities +of paintings on a gold ground, bright coloured frescoes, +most elaborate. There were great buffets and +tables covered with splendid gold and silver plates, flagons, +vases, etc. At the end of the room was a square, +raised platform covered with red, and a splendid dais, all +purple velvet, ermine, and gold embroidery where the +Imperial couple were to dine with their faithful subjects.</p> + +<p>We strangers were merely admitted for a few minutes +to see the beginning of the meal, and then we retired, and +the Emperor remained alone with his people. Of course +officers and officials of all descriptions were standing +close round the platform. There was a large table to the +left as we came in, where almost all the Russians were +already assembled—all the women in the national dress, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_69" title="pg 69"> </a> +high Kakoshnik, long white lace spangled veil, and a sort +of loose hanging sleeve which was very effective. The +ensemble was striking.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus082.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Illustration: Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes" id="illus082" title="Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes"> </a> +<p class="center small">Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes</p> +</div> + +<p>Presently we heard a sound of music and trumpets, +which told us the Royalties were approaching, and as +they came near we heard the familiar strains of the Polonaise +from Glinka's opera "La Vie pour le Czar," which +is always played when the Emperor and Empress appear. +They came with the usual escort of officers and +chamberlains, smiling and bowing graciously to all of us. +They seated themselves (always in their cloth of gold +mantles, and crowns on their heads) on the two throne +chairs; a small table was placed in front of them, and then +the dinner began.</p> + +<p>The soupière was preceded by a chamberlain in gold +lace; held by a Master of Ceremonies, and flanked on +each side by a gigantic Chevalier-garde, sabre-à-nu. +There was always a collection of officials, chamberlains, +pages, etc., bringing up the rear of the cortége, so that at +each entrée a little procession appeared. We saw three +dishes brought in with the same ceremony—the fish was +so large on a large silver dish that <em>two</em> Masters of Ceremonies +held that.</p> + +<p>It was really a wonderful sight, like a picture in some +old history of the Moyen Age. As soon <ins title="Transcriber's note: image read 'the' here.">as</ins> the Sovereigns +had taken their places on the thrones all the +Russians at their table sat down too. We couldn't, because +we had nothing to sit upon, so we remained standing +at the end of the room, facing the estrade. They +told us that when the Emperor raised his glass and asked +for wine that was the signal for us to retire; and that it +would be after the roast. (All our instructions were +most carefully given to us by Benckendorff, who felt his +responsibility.) Think what his position would have + +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_70" title="pg 70"> </a> +been if any member of <em>his</em> Embassy had made a "gaffe." +Accordingly as soon as the roast made its appearance +all our eyes were riveted upon the Emperor. He +raised his glass slowly (very high) to give us time. +General Schweinitz, as Doyen, stepped well forward, and +made a very low bow. We all bowed and curtseyed low +(my knees are becoming more supple) and got ourselves +out backwards. It wasn't very difficult, as we had +our trains over our arms.</p> + +<p>I don't think we shall see anything more curious than +that state banquet. I certainly shall never see again a +soup tureen guarded by soldiers with drawn swords.</p> + +<p class="author">10 o'clock.</p> + +<p>We dined quietly, everyone giving his experiences—of +course the younger members of the Embassy, who +had no places in the church, had a better impression of +the ensemble than we had. They said the excitement +and emotion of the crowd in the square before the church +was extraordinary. All crossed themselves, and many +cried, when the cannon told them that the Emperor was +crowned. They seem to be an emotional, superstitious +race. They also said the procession around the courts, +when the Emperor and Empress were going to the various +churches, was wonderful—a moving mass of feathers, +jewels, banners, bright helmets, and cuirasses, all +glittering in the sun.</p> + +<p>After dinner we drove about a little, seeing the illuminations, +but the crowd was so dense we could hardly +move, though the soldiers did all they could, and battered +the people about. Then it began to rain a little, so I +begged to come home. It is raining quite hard now—I +hear it on the marquise. Heavens how tired I am.</p> + +<p>Of course I can't write half of what I have seen, but + +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_71" title="pg 71"> </a> +the papers will keep you quite au courant. Some of the +newspaper correspondents were in the church, and of +course plenty in the tribunes outside. Our carriages +certainly made a great effect, and we were cheered various +times on our way home.</p> + +<p>Madame Hubert talks so much she can hardly get +me my things. She is as much pleased with her husband's +appearance as I am with mine. What an experience +for them, when you think that she had never been +out of Villers-Cotterets and Bourneville when she came +to us, and Paris seemed a Paradise.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France à Moscou</span>,<br > +<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br > +Monday, May 28th, 1883.</p> + +<p>We were all again in Court dress at 11 this morning to +go to the Palace and present our felicitations to the Imperial +couple. I wore the same blue dress, as my pink +one goes on to-night for the "courtag" at the Palace. It +seems there was some misunderstanding about our being +received this morning, so some of our colleagues had +come, and gone, rather put out at the vagueness of the +instructions. We decided to remain, as we had arrived +there in all our finery, particularly as one of the chamberlains +told us it would be most interesting. Deputations +from the provinces were to present addresses of +felicitation and we would see all the national costumes.</p> + +<p>As we had some time to wait, the Greek chamberlain +suggested that we should take advantage of that opportunity +to be presented to the Queen of Greece. He +thought he could arrange it, so he went off to her +rooms, and presently reappeared with the maid of honour, +Mlle. Colocotroni (a friend of Gertrude's), and we +were taken at once to the Queen, who was standing in + +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_72" title="pg 72"> </a> +a small salon overlooking the river. She is young and +handsome, fair, stoutish, but tall enough to carry it off +well, and was chatty and sympathetic—said she supposed +I was quite tired after yesterday, that it was certainly very +trying; that the person who was the least tired was the +Empress. She had met her in one of the corridors in +the interval between the ceremony at the church, or +rather the churches (as she went to three after leaving +the Assomption). She had taken off her Imperial mantle +and crown, and was going to see one of her numerous +relations before beginning again.</p> + +<p>As soon as our audience was over we returned to the +large audience hall, where we found Benckendorff tearing +his hair, in a wild state, because we were late—all our +colleagues had taken their places. However we were in +time, and ranged ourselves, the ladies all together on +the right, the men opposite. I was the Doyenne, and +stood at the head of the column (as neither Lady Thornton +nor Mdme. Schweinitz was there). All about the +room were groups of people from the provinces waiting +their turn, but there was such a crowd of uniforms and +costumes that one could hardly distinguish anything.</p> + +<p>Presently the Court appeared—the Emperor always in +uniform, the Empress in a very handsome train, blue velvet, +embroidered in gold, and a splendid tiara, necklace +and front of sapphires. They had the usual train of +Princes, chamberlains, aides-de-camp, etc. As soon as +they had taken their places on the platform all the +Missions (men) advanced according to their rank. The +Ambassador made a few steps forward, said a few words +of felicitation to the Emperor (the Mission remaining at +a respectful distance behind), then made a low bow, and +all retired à reculons.</p> + +<p>The Austrian Embassy looked very well—the Hungarian + +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_73" title="pg 73"> </a> +uniforms are so handsome. The Americans also +very well, though they have no uniform, wear ordinary +black evening clothes. The Admiral and his two aides-de-camp +of course wore theirs, but it is so quiet, dark +blue with little lace, and no orders, that one would +hardly have remarked it except for the epaulettes and +aiguillettes.</p> + +<p>As soon as all the men of the Corps Diplomatique had +passed the Empress left her place and came to us. Her +train was carried by 4 pages, a high official, red velvet and +gold lace, carrying the extreme end. She passed down +the line of ladies, saying something to each one. I heard +her speak three languages—English, French, and German—quite +easily.</p> + +<p>We waited until the Court retired, and then there was +the usual stampede for the carriages. I have not been +out again this afternoon. We start for our Court ball +at 8.45, and of course dine early. I was interrupted by +Philippe, who came to coiffer me, having as usual +stopped in the lingerie to inspect my dress, the pink one +this time. He tells me he began to dress some of the +heads for to-night at 12 this morning.</p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France à Moscou</span>,<br > +<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br > +Mardi, 29 Mai, 1883.</p> + +<p>I will begin my letter while I am waiting to go with +some of the gentlemen and Benckendorff to see the +preparations for the great people's fête. I couldn't write +last night, I was so tired out. Two court dresses and +functions, and hours of standing is a good deal for one +day. We started early, at a quarter to 9. We assembled + +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_74" title="pg 74"> </a> +in the same room in the old Kremlin where the +Imperial couple had dined this afternoon. Almost all +our colleagues and some of the swell Russians were already +there, and everyone moved about, talking and +looking until the welcome strains of the march told us +the Emperor and Empress were coming.</p> + +<p>One of the chamberlains showed me some of the most +curious old bowls and flagons. The work is rather +rough, and the stones enormous—not well cut—but the +effect is good, half barbaric. The Court appeared always +with the same brilliant suite—the Empress looked +charming in a pink velvet train, embroidered in silver. +All the Grand Duchesses in drap d'argent, bordered with +beautiful black sable.</p> + +<p>As soon as the Court arrived the polonaise began; the +Emperor making the first with Queen of Greece, the +Empress with Schweinitz. It was a charming sight. All +the trains were étalées their full length. The gentleman +takes his partner's hand, holding it very high, and they +make a stately progress through the rooms. I didn't +dance the first one. We had a very good view of the +whole thing. It was a beautiful sight—the men all in +uniform, with orders, and broad ribbons; and the women +with their trains down the full length. The Russian +trains, of white and silver bordered with fur, made a great +effect.</p> + +<p>The Emperor danced (which is a façon de parler only, +as one walked through the rooms) with the Queen of +Greece, Arch Duchess Charles Louis, and the Ambassadrices +Lady Thornton, Mdme. Jaurès, Countess Dudzeele, +and me—the Empress with the 6 Ambassadors. +I danced the second polonaise with the Grand Duke +Wladimir, who is handsome and spirited looking. He +told me who many of the people were. In one of the + +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_75" title="pg 75"> </a> +rooms were all the Russian women, not in costume, but +in ordinary ball dress, all, however, wearing the Kakoshnik +studded with jewels, and most becoming it was.</p> + +<p>I was much interested (before my turn came) to see +how the ladies got back to their places after having been +deposited by the Emperor in the middle of the room. He +doesn't conduct his partner back as all the others do. +He goes back to his own place, the lady makes a curtsey, +and gets back to hers across the room backwards as well +as she can. They seemed to get through all right. I +rather enjoyed my polonaise with the Emperor. He +showed me quantities of people—a splendid man from +some part of Asia dressed in white, with jewels, coloured +stones mostly, all down the front of his coat, and pistols +in his belt with jewelled hilts. Also the Khan of Khiva, +with all the front of his high fur cap covered with jewels, +also his belt, which seemed made entirely of diamonds +and rubies.</p> + +<p>The music was always the march from Glinka's opera; +each band in turn taking it up as the cortége passed +through the rooms. The last Polonaise finished about +11.30, and the Court immediately retired. We had no +refreshments of any kind, and made the same rush for the +carriages.</p> + +<p>Our rentrée to the Embassy is most amusing—the +whole Mission precedes us, and when we arrive we find +them ranged in a semicircle at the foot of the staircase, +waiting to receive us. Richard says he never understood +the gulf that separates an Ambassador Extraordinary +from ordinary mortals until he accompanied his +brother to Moscow.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_76" title="pg 76"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">5 o'clock.</p> + +<p>We had rather an interesting afternoon. We met one +of the committee at the place, sort of great plain, or +meadow, where the Fête Populaire is to be, near the +Petrofski Palace, where the Emperor stayed before he +made his public entrée into Moscow, who showed us +everything. There are quantities of little sheds or baraques, +where everybody (and there will be thousands, +he tells us) will receive a basket with a meat pâté, a +pâté of confitures, a cake, and a package of bonbons. +There are also great barrels of beer, where everyone can +go with a mug and drink as much as he can hold.</p> + +<p>We asked M. (I forget his name) how it was possible +to take precautions with such a crowd of people, but he +said they anticipated no danger, it was the "people's +day," which sounded to us rather optimistic. It was +rather nice driving about.</p> + +<p>Now I have just been, at the request of Lhermite, to +look at his table, as we have our first big dinner to-night +(all Russians); all the flowers, "Roses de France," have +just arrived from Paris—three nights on the road; they +look quite fresh and beautiful,—were packed alone in +large hampers. I shall wear my blue tulle ball-dress +to-night, as we go to the ball at the Governor's Palace +after dinner.</p> + +<p class="author">Wednesday, 30th.</p> + +<p>Our dinner was pleasant last night. As it was entirely +Russian we had the curious meal they all take just before +dinner. A table was spread in the small salon opening +into the dining-room, with smoked and salted fish, +caviare, cucumbers, anchovies, etc. They all partook, +and then we passed into the dining-room, where the real +business began. I sat between M. de Giers, Foreign +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_77" title="pg 77"> </a> +Minister, and Count Worontzoff, Ministre de la Cour. +They were very pleasant, and rather amusing over the +exigencies of the suites of the foreign Princes; the +smaller the Power the more important the chamberlains, +equerries, etc.—rather like our own experience the year +of the Exhibition in Paris, where a Baden equerry, I +think, was forgotten (which of course was most improper +at the Quai d'Orsay), and most delicate negotiations +were necessary. Both gentlemen were very complimentary +over the dinner and the flowers—asked where in +Moscow we had been able to find them, and could hardly +believe they had arrived this morning, three nights and +three days on the road. They were beautiful, those +lovely pink "Roses de France," which looked quite +charming with the dark blue Sèvres china.</p> + +<p>The guests went off about 10; and we half an hour +later to the great ball. I wore my light blue tulle +with silver braid; and I will add that I left the greater +part of the tulle at the Palace. Happily the silk under-skirt +was strong, or else I should have stood in my petticoats. +The crowd and heat was something awful—the +staircase was a regular bousculade, and I was thankful +those big Russian spurs merely tore my flounces, and +didn't penetrate any further. We finally arrived, struggling +and already exhausted, in the ballroom, where we +found all the Grand Dukes and Grand Duchesses already +assembled to receive the Emperor.</p> + +<p>We had some little time to wait, so they all came over +and talked to us. The Queen of Greece is most attractive—so +simple. She noticed that my dress was torn and +flowers crushed, but said, what was quite true, that no +one would remark it in the crowd. We soon heard the +sound of the March, and then there was such a rush +towards the door by which the Emperor and Empress +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_78" title="pg 78"> </a> +were to enter that we quickly withdrew into the embrasure +of the window, and let the torrent pass. They tried +to make a circle, but it was impossible. The crowd was +dense. W. and I made our way quickly to the head of +the stairs and waited there, as they had told us the Emperor +would not stay long—merely make a tour through +the rooms.</p> + +<p>They appeared very soon, shook hands with us both, +and seemed very glad to get away. The Empress was +in light blue, with a beautiful diamond tiara. It is rather +pretty to see the Grand Duke Wladimir <em>always</em> close to +his brother, to shield him from any danger. We were +all rather cross when we got home.</p> + +<p>This morning I have been shopping with W., Richard, +and Pontécoulant. It is rather an unsatisfactory performance, +as we can't either speak or understand Russian. +In the bazaars and real Moscow shops they know nothing +but Russian. We take the little polygot boy with us (always +ahead in his little droshky) but as he invariably announces +"la grande Ambassade" we <em>see</em> the prices go up. +Some of the enamel and gold and silver work is beautiful. +Richard was quite fascinated with the Madonnas, +with their black faces and wands, set in a handsome frame +of gold, with light blue enamel. He bought two, one +for Louise and one for me, which I am delighted to have. +We bought various little boxes, some of lacquer, others +in silver, rather prettily worked, and a variety of fancy +spoons, buckles, etc.</p> + +<p>I must stop now and dress. We dine at 6, so as to be +at the Opéra at 9. We shall go "en gala," our three +carriages, as it is a fine warm night. The detective is a +little anxious for to-night (it would be such a good opportunity +to get rid of all the Russian Princes, to say +nothing of the foreigners). He and Pontécoulant suggested +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_79" title="pg 79"> </a> +to W. that I should be left at home, but I protested +vigorously. If they all go, I am going too. I +don't feel very nervous, I wonder why; for it really is a +little uncomfortable—unusual to hesitate about going to +the Opéra because one might be blown up.</p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author">Jeudi, May 31st, 1883.</p> + +<p>I was too tired to write last night, though the opera +was over fairly early. It was a beautiful sight, the house +brilliantly lighted and crowded, nothing but uniforms, +orders, and jewels. There was one dark box, which of +course attracted much attention; the Americans—all the +men in black, except the three naval officers—(we were +acclamés all along the route, and I must say Leroy and +Hubert looked very well in their tricornes and powdered +wigs). I wore the crème embroidered velvet with blue +satin front, tiara, and blue feathers in my hair. I fancy +Philippe had made a sort of tower on the top of my +head, but he again assured me I must have a "coiffure de +circonstance."</p> + +<p>The square before the Opéra was brilliantly lighted +(they certainly light most beautifully in Russia—thousands +of candles everywhere), a red carpet down, and +quantities of palms and flowers—always also quantities +of gilded gentlemen. We didn't wait very long for the +Court to appear—about a quarter of an hour—and were +much taken up looking at everything, and everybody, +and trying to recognize our friends. A large box at one +end of the house, opposite the stage, was reserved for +the Royalties, all draped of course in red and gold.</p> + +<p>Everyone rose when the Emperor and Empress arrived, +always with their brilliant cortége of Princes. One +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_80" title="pg 80"> </a> +of the most striking uniforms was the Prince of +Montenegro's, but they all made a fine show, and a most +effective background for the women—the orchestra playing +the Russian Hymn, the chorus singing it, all the +house applauding, and all eyes fixed on the Royal box.</p> + +<p>It was really magnificent, and the Emperor looked +pleased. They gave the first act of Glinka's opera "La +Vie pour le Czar." When the curtain fell the whole +house rose again; when the Emperor and Empress left +their box there was a general movement among the people, +and some of our colleagues had come to pay us a visit +when Count Worontzoff (Ministre de la Cour) appeared +and said, "Sa Majesté" hoped we would come and have +tea with her, and he would have the honour of showing +us the way; so he gave me his arm and took me to the +foyer, which was very well arranged with flowers, plants, +and red carpets.</p> + +<p>There were several round tables. He took me to the +Empress' table, where were the Queen of Greece, Grand +Duchesses Constantine and Wladimir, Lady Thornton, +and Madame Jaurès; also Nigra, Schweinitz, and a +brother of the Shah de Perse. The Empress looked so +young, in white, with a broad red ribbon, and splendid +diamonds. The Queen of Greece was charming, asked +me if I ever found time to write to Francis. The Emperor +didn't sit down—he walked about between the +tables, and talked to everybody.</p> + +<p>We stayed, I should think, about half an hour at the +tea-table, and then went back to the theatre. The ballet +was long, but interesting, all the mazurkas of the Empire +were danced in costume. We got our carriages easily +enough, and the arrangements were good. The younger +members of the Mission who didn't go for tea with the +Empress found the entr'acte long.</p> +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_81" title="pg 81"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, June 2d.</p> + +<p>I couldn't write yesterday, Dear, for I was in bed until +dinner-time, thoroughly tired out. Neither W. nor I +went to the ball on Thursday night given by the "Noblesse +de Moscou." I hoped to be able to go to the ball +of the German Embassy last night, but I couldn't do that +either. I felt rather better about 6 o'clock, and sent for +my dress, as W. particularly wanted me to go, but the +minute I stood up and tried to dress I was half fainting, +so there was no use persisting.</p> + +<p>The fatigue has been something awful, and the hours +of standing have made it impossible to put on my Paris +shoes, and I have been obliged to buy white satin <em>boats</em> +at one of the Moscow shoemakers. The bootmakers +will make his fortune, as it seems everybody is in the +same state. The Empress even can't wear her usual +shoes, and all the women have left off coquettish little +shoes that match their dresses, and taken to these rather +primitive chaussures.</p> + +<p>W. and all the gentlemen went to the ball, and said +it was very handsome—everything, silver, supper, servants, +etc., had been sent from Berlin. Madame +Schweinitz, who has a young baby, arrived from Petersburg +the morning of the ball. Count Eulenbourg—one +of the German Emperor's Maîtres des Cérémonies—had +also arrived to decide about the questions of precedence, +place, etc. The Court remained to supper, so of course +the Ambassadors were obliged to stay. W. got home at +2 o'clock, very late for this country, where everything +begins early.</p> + +<p>Richard and Pontécoulant are getting great friends. +Pontécoulant blagues<sup><a href="#fn5" id="r5">[5]</a></sup> him all the time—says he is getting +a perfect courtier, and that his electors in the Seine +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_82" title="pg 82"> </a> +Inférieure would be scandalized if they could see him. I +must dress now for the "Fête Populaire," and will write +more when I get back.</p> + +<p class="author">9 o'clock.</p> + +<p>I have retired to my own quarters. W. dines with +Nigra, so I have remained in my dressing-room, as +I have still a "fond de fatigue." The Fête Populaire +was interesting. The day has been beautiful, and +there was not a hitch of any kind. The drive out +was interesting, on account of the people, a steady stream +of peasants of all ages going the same way. We went +at once to the Loge Impériale, a large pavilion erected at +the entrance facing the great plain. The space was so +enormous that one hardly distinguished anything. The +booths and towers looked like little spots, and they were +very far off. The Emperor and Empress never left the +Loge. He certainly didn't go down and walk about +among the people, as some enthusiastic gentlemen had +told us he would. Of course all the same people were +assembled in the Loge—Diplomatists, Court officials, +officers, etc. There was a cold lunch always going on.</p> + +<p>There were many white dresses—all Russian women +wear white a great deal at any age. The Princess +Kotchoubey—78 years old—who put the Imperial mantle +on the Empress the day of the sacre, and who had +done the same thing for the late Empress, was dressed +entirely in white, bonnet, mantle, everything.</p> + +<p>The Court remained about an hour, and we left as soon +as they did. There was some little delay getting our +carriages, but on the whole the thing was well managed. +Already some people were coming away looking very +smiling, and carrying their baskets most carefully. I will +bring you one of the mugs they gave me with the chiffre +of the Emperor and Empress, and the date.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_83" title="pg 83"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, June 3d.</p> + +<p>I stayed at home all the morning, quite pleased to have +nothing to do. This afternoon W., Pontécoulant, and I +went for a little turn. We got out of the carriage at the +Kremlin, and walked about, having a quiet look at +everything. The view from the terrace was enchanting, +the afternoon sun lighting up all the curious old buildings, +and bringing out the colours of everything.</p> + +<p>This evening we have had a diplomatic dinner. I was +between Schweinitz and Sir Edward Thornton. Both of +them talked a great deal. After dinner I talked some +time to Hunt, whom I like very much. He says many +people, Russians particularly, couldn't understand why +he didn't wear his uniform—"ce n'est pas très poli pour +nous." They can't conceive that the representative of a +great Power shouldn't be attired in velvet and gold like +all the rest of the Embassies.</p> + +<p>The table was again covered with pink roses. They +just last through the dinner, and fall to pieces as soon as +they are taken out of the vases. Some of them looked +so fresh, not even in full bloom, that I thought I could +send some French roses to Countess Pahlen, and the +moment we left the dining-room Lhermite took them +off the table, but they fell to pieces in his hands, covering +the floor with their petals.</p> + +<p class="author">Monday, June 4th.</p> + +<p>This morning we have been photographed in the +court-yard—the whole establishment, gala carriages, servants, +horses, moujiks, maids, cooks, etc. First there +was the "classic" group of the Mission, W. and I seated +in front, with all the gentlemen standing around us. It +was very long getting the poses all right so as to show +everybody in an advantageous light; and as it is (judging + +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_84" title="pg 84"> </a> +from the cliché) François de Corcelle looks as if he was +throttling me. Then came the group of the whole party, +and it was amusing to see how eager the Russian maids +and the stable-men were to be well placed. They stood +as still as rocks. We waited a little to see the gala carriages +and horses taken, but that was too long. The +horses were nervous, and never were quiet an instant. +Now someone has gone to get a drum—they think the +sudden noise may make them all look in the same direction +for a moment.</p> + +<p>W. and I have been out for a turn—to the Kremlin +of course, which is really the most interesting part of +Moscow. There is always the same crowd hurrying and +jostling each other. We went all over St. Basile. The +inside is curious, with a succession of rooms and dark recesses, +but the outside is unique; such an agglomeration +of domes, steeples, bell-towers; all absolutely different in +shape and colour—perfectly barbarous, but very striking.</p> + +<p>W. enjoys our quiet afternoon drives, the perpetual +representation, seeing always the same people, and saying +and hearing the same things, is beginning to tire +him. It is a curious life. We see nothing but the Court +and the people—no haute bourgeoisie nor intermediate +class, and yet they exist, people in finance and commercial +affairs. They certainly have had no part in the +show—I should think there must be great discontent. +The young generation certainly will never be satisfied to +be kept entirely out of everything. Some of them have +travelled, been educated in England, have handsome +houses, English horses, etc., but apparently they don't +exist—at least we have never seen any.</p> + +<p>I must stop, as we dress and dine early for the Palace +Ball. My Dear, my dress is frightfully green (Delannoy's +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_85" title="pg 85"> </a> +green velvet coat over pink tulle). Of course we +chose it by candle-light, when it looked charming; but +as we dress and start by daylight I am rather anxious. +I consulted Pontécoulant, who came in just as the maids +were bringing it in. He said, "C'est bien vert, Madame." +Let us hope that the light of thousands of wax candles +may have a subduing effect.</p> + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France, Moscow</span>,<br > +<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br > +June 5, 1883.</p> + +<p>The Palace ball was quite beautiful last night. I had +some misgivings as to my dress until we got to the +Palace, as the gentlemen of the Embassy had evidently +found me <em>very green</em> when we assembled in the great +hall before starting; however as soon as we arrived in +the big room of the Palace where we were all marshalled, +Countess Linden (an American born) said to me at once +"Oh, Mdme. Waddington, how lovely your pink roses +look on the <em>dark blue</em> velvet," so I knew it was all right. +I wore that dress of Delannoy's which she was sure would +be most effective—pink tulle skirts—with a green velvet +habit (chosen of course by candle-light) so that it did +look very green by daylight, and a wreath of pink roses +round the décolleté. I remember both Henrietta and +Pauline were a little doubtful—but it certainly made +more effect than any dress I wore except the blue manteau +de cour. I will tell Delannoy. We always go in by +a special side entrance to these Palace functions, which +is a pity, as we miss the grand staircase, which they +told us was splendid with red carpets, soldiers, and gold-laced +gentlemen to-night. We waited some time, an +hour certainly, before the Court came, but as all the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_86" title="pg 86"> </a> +Corps Diplomatique were assembled there it was pleasant +enough, and we all compared our experiences and our +fatigue, for everybody was dead tired—the men more +than the women.</p> + +<p>The rooms are magnificent—very high, and entirely +lighted by wax candles—thousands; one of the chamberlains +told me how many, but I would scarcely dare to +say. The Court arrived with the usual ceremony and +always the same brilliant suite of officers and foreign +Princes. The Emperor and Empress looked very smiling, +and not at all tired. She was in white, with splendid +diamonds and the broad blue ribbon of St. André. He +always in uniform. As soon as they appeared the polonaises +began, this time three only, which the Emperor +danced with the ladies of the family. I danced the first +with the Grand Duke Wladimir. He is charming and +amiable, but has a stern face when he isn't smiling. I +think if the Russians ever feel his hand it will be a heavy +one. I danced the second with the Grand Duke Alexis, +and looked on at the third. It was not nearly so fine a +sight as the Court ball at the old palace. <em>There</em> the mixture +of modern life and dress and half barbaric costumes +and ornamentations was so striking; also the trains made +such an effect, being all étaléd one was obliged to keep a +certain distance, and that gave a stately air to the whole +thing which was wanting last night when all the women +were in ordinary ball dress, not particularly long, so that +the cortége was rather crowded and one saw merely a +mass of jewelled heads (the dress was lost). Also they +merely walked around the ballroom, not going through +all the rooms as we did at the old palace.</p> + +<p>When the polonaises were over there were one or two +waltzes. The Empress made several turns, but with the +Princes only, and we stood and looked on.</p> +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_87" title="pg 87"> </a></p> + +<p>While we were waiting there until someone should +come and get us for some new function I heard a sort of +scuffle behind me and a woman's impatient voice saying +in English "I can't bear it another moment," and a sound +of something falling or rolling across the floor. I turned +round and saw Mdme. A—— (a secretary's wife, also an +American) apparently struggling with something, and +very flushed and excited. I said, "What is the matter?" +"I am kicking off my shoes." "But you can never put +them on again." "I don't care if I never see them again—I +can't stand them another minute." "But you have +to walk in a cortége to supper with the Imperial party." +"I don't care at all, I shall walk in my stockings," then +came another little kick, and the slipper disappeared, rolling +underneath a heavy damask curtain. I quite sympathized +with her, as my beautiful white slippers (Moscow +manufacture) were not altogether comfortable, but I +think I should not have had the strength of mind to discard +them entirely. When I was dressing, Adelaide tried +to persuade me that I had better put on the pink satin +slippers that matched my dress; but my experience of the +hours of standing at all Russian Court functions had at +least taught me not to start with anything that was at all +tight.</p> + +<p>While we were looking at the dancing the Grand Duke +Michel came over and asked me if I wouldn't come and +stand a little with the Grand Duchesses. He took me to a +little group where were the Grand Duchesses Michel and +Constantine and the Queen of Greece (she is always so +gay and natural). They at once asked me who had made +my dress, and what color it was. They had been talking +about it, and couldn't agree. The Grand Duchess Constantine +had on her emeralds, and beautiful they were—blocks +of stone, rather difficult to wear. She must have +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_88" title="pg 88"> </a> +been very handsome, has still a beautiful figure, and holds +herself splendidly.</p> + +<p>We talked music a little—she said I ought to hear +some of the people's songs. I should like to very much, +but there doesn't seem any place where one can hear the +national songs. The men of the Embassy went one night +to the "Hermitage," where there was a little of everything, +and did hear some of the peasants singing their +national airs, but they didn't seem to think I could go. +While we were still talking there was a move, and they +said the Empress (who had been dancing all the time in +a small circle made for her at her end of the ballroom +and very strictly kept) was going to have tea. All the +Court and suite followed, and I was rather wondering +how to get back to my place and my colleagues when a +tall aide-de-camp came up and said he would have the +honour of conducting me to Her Majesty's tea—so we +started off across several rooms and corridors, which +were crowded, and arrived at a door where the two gigantic +negroes were standing. He said something—the +doors flew open—he made me a low bow and retired (as +he couldn't come any farther), and I found myself standing +alone in a large room with four or five tables—everyone +seated. For a moment I didn't know quite what +to do, and felt rather shy, but the Princess Kotchoubey, +Grande Maîtresse, who was standing in the middle of the +room, came forward at once and took me to the Duchesse +d'Edimbourg's table, where there were also the +Arch-Duchess Charles Louis, the Duchess of Oldenburg, +a young Hessian Prince, and my two colleagues, +Lady Thornton and Madame Jaurès.</p> + +<p>We had tea and ices—didn't talk much, except the +Duchess of Edinburgh, who seems clever and ready to +talk—but I wasn't near her. I didn't see all the Ambassadors, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_89" title="pg 89"> </a> +mine certainly wasn't there, and of course very +few comparatively of our colleagues, as only Ambassadors +and their wives were invited to Her Majesty's tea +(no small fry, like Ministers).</p> + +<p>I had the explanation of W.'s absence later. When +the Court moved off to tea General Wolseley suggested +that W. should come and smoke a cigar in his room. He +was lodged at the Kremlin with his Prince, the Duke of +Edinburgh. He, like a true Briton, had enough of bowing +and standing. W. was naturally quite of the same +opinion, so they picked up Admiral Seymour (also with +the Duke of Edinburgh) and had a very pleasant hour +smoking and talking until they were summoned for supper. +<em>That</em> they couldn't get out of, as we made a fine +procession directly behind the Court through all the +rooms to St. George's Hall—a great white high room +magnificently lighted, with tablets all around the walls +with the names of the Knights of the Order of St. George +who had died in battle, and a souper assis for 800 people. +Sir Edward Thornton, British Ambassador, took me. +As we were parading through the rooms between two +hedges of gaping people looking at the cortége, dresses, +diamonds, etc., I thought of Mdme. A—— and her +stockings, and wondered how she was getting on. I daresay +quite well; as she had a yellow satin dress and yellow +silk stockings perhaps no one noticed anything, and as +long as she didn't step on a needle or anything sharp she +was all right. Someone will find a nice little pair of +yellow satin shoes under the window-curtains in the ballroom +when the cleaning up is done after the fêtes.</p> + +<p>The hall was a blaze of light and jewels—a long table +across the end for the Imperial party, and all of us at two +long tables running the whole length of the room. The +gold and silver plate was very handsome, particularly the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_90" title="pg 90"> </a> +massive flambeaux and high ornaments for the middle of +the table. The supper was good, hot, and quickly served. +There was music all the time—singers, men and women, +in a gallery singing all sorts of Russian airs which nobody +listened to. The Emperor did not sit down to +supper. He remained standing in the middle of the +room talking to his gentlemen, and a few words to the +diplomatists when supper was over and one loitered a +little before going back to the ballroom. He certainly +doesn't care to talk to strangers—seeks them out very +little, and when he does talk it is absolutely banal. Is it +"paresse d'esprit" or great reserve?—one hardly knows. +I should think all this parade and function bored him +extremely. They say he is very domestic in his tastes, +and what he likes best is the country with his wife and +children.</p> + +<p>After supper we went back to the ballroom for about +half an hour. Then the Court retired and we followed +them at once. We got our carriages fairly quickly. +There are always crowds in the streets waiting to see the +grand-monde pass. The Kremlin looks fairy-like as we +drive through—lights everywhere, some high, high up in +a queer little octagon green tower—then a great doorway +and staircase all lighted, with quantities of servants +and soldiers standing about; then a bit of rough pavement +in a half dark court and under a little low dark +gate with a shrine and Madonna at one end—all so perfectly +unmodern, and unlike anything else.</p> + +<p class="tb"> </p> + +<p>I began my letter this morning before breakfast, but +didn't finish, as I was called off by some visits, and now +I will try and send this off by to-night's courier. We have +had a nice afternoon looking at the Trésor. Of course it +was very hurried—it would take weeks to see everything. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_91" title="pg 91"> </a> +The collection of state carriages and sleighs is interesting. +Almost all the carriages are French—either given +to the various Russian Sovereigns by French Kings, or +ordered in France by the Sovereigns themselves. The +great sledge in which Catharine II. made all her long +voyages is comfortable enough, and not unlike the "wagons +impériaux" in which we travelled from Varsovie to +Moscow.</p> + +<p>Then we saw all the Coronation robes, crowns, sapphires, +swords, jewelled belts and collars, furs, etc., of +all the old Emperors from Ivan the Terrible down to the +late Emperor. Some of the crowns of the first Ivans +and Peters are extraordinary—a sort of high fur cap +covered with jewels, but heavy and roughly made—the +jewels always beautiful, such large stones, particularly +sapphires and rubies. There were vitrines full of splendid +gold and silver cups and dishes, presents to the Emperor +from all the different provinces.</p> + +<p>They tell us the present Emperor has had magnificent +things given to him, but we have not seen them yet. +We met various people also going through the Museum, +and I had quite a talk with Radziwill (you know which +one I mean, who married Countess Malatesta's daughter). +It seemed funny to go back to the old Roman +days, and the evenings (prima-sera) in the Malatesta Palace. +He says everybody is worn out with the ceremonies +and the standing—however, to-night is the end, +with our dinner at the Palace.</p> + +<p>I have again been interrupted—this time by a visit +from the Duc d'Aoste, whom I always find charming. +He is not at all expansive and very shy, but when one +breaks the ice he is interesting. He doesn't look like +anybody else, nor as if he belonged to this century. It +is quite the face one would see in any old Spanish picture—a +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_92" title="pg 92"> </a> +soldier-monk of Velasquez. He talked about the +Exhibition of '78, when W. was at the Foreign Office, +and I was almost tempted to tell him how embarrassed +we all were on the opening day when there were so many +Ex-Spanish Sovereigns—King François d'Assises, Queen +Isabella, and King Amédée. There was a big reception +in the evening at the Elysée, and the Maréchal +<sup><a href="#fn6" id="r6">[6]</a></sup> was +rather bothered with all his Spanish Royalties. However, +Queen Isabella and the Duc d'Aoste were evidently on +the best of terms. I saw them talking together, and I +believe all the Spaniards liked d'Aoste, though naturally +they wanted a King of their own race.</p> + +<p>Here is Monsieur Philippe for his last coiffure, as he +says somewhat sadly. To-night's dinner is our last function. +We have then the revue, by daylight, of course, +and leave on Sunday for Petersburg.</p> + +<p class="author">Wednesday, June 6th.</p> + +<p>The gala dinner was handsome and <em>short</em> last night. +W. and I went off alone (none but chefs de mission were +invited) in the coupé d'Orsay, always with Benckendorff +in his carriage in front—W. in uniform, I in my white +and silver brocade, white feathers and diamonds in my +hair, no colour anywhere, not even on my cheeks, which +reduces Philippe to a state of prostrate stupefaction—"Madame +qui pourrait être si bien."</p> + +<p>We were received at the foot of the staircase and at +the doors by all the Chamberlains as usual and taken at +once to the same Salle St. George where we were to dine—all +at the Imperial table this time—about 500 couverts. +We were shown at once our seats—all the places +were marked, and we stood waiting behind our chairs +(like the footmen) for the Court to appear. I found myself +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_93" title="pg 93"> </a> +seated between the Duc d'Aoste and the young +Crown Prince of Sweden, so I was quite satisfied. One +of my colleagues was very anxious I should change the +papers—give her my Duke and take her's, who was never +civil to her, but would be perhaps to me, but I demurred, +as I knew mine would be nice, and I didn't know her's +at all. I don't think he was very nice to her, certainly +didn't talk much, but perhaps he never does.</p> + +<p>We didn't wait very long. The Court was fairly +punctual—the Empress looked very nice, all in white +with diamonds. She had on her right the Duc d'Edimbourg +(who always had the place of honour), and on her +left the Prince Waldemar de Danemark, her brother. The +Emperor had the Queen of Greece on his right, the Arch +Duchess Charles Louis on his left. The dinner wasn't +bad, and was quickly served. The fish were enormous, +served on large silver dishes as big as boats. There was +always that curious Russian soup with all sorts of nondescript +things floating about on the surface. The Duc +d'Aoste was as nice as possible—said the Court officials +would be enchanted when everything was over, and all +the foreign Princes safely back in their own countries, +that the question of etiquette was something awful. As +soon as the Russian Court decided anything all the others +immediately protested—used all sorts of precedents, and +complicated matters in every way. I suggested that he +himself was difficult to place on account of the Duc de +Montpensier, who was here as a Spanish Prince, husband +of the Infanta. He replied "Absolument pas—je suis +ici comme prince italien, frère du roi," declining any sort +of Spanish souvenir.</p> + +<p>When dinner was over we passed into the salle St. André +for coffee, and that was funny too. As soon as the +Emperor and Empress made the move all our Dukes and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_94" title="pg 94"> </a> +Princes got up at once, and joined the Imperial procession, +and we followed all in a heap. There we had a +pleasant half hour, the Empress and the Grand Duchesses +came over and talked to us, hoped we were not tired, +that we had been interested, etc. I said to the Grand +Duchess Constantine that they must be enchanted to be +at the end of their functions, and to get rid of us all—but +she said not at all. She herself was much less tired +than when she began. She asked me what I had found +the most striking in all the ceremonies. I said certainly +the Coronation—first the moment when the Emperor +crowned himself—the only figure standing on the dais, +and afterwards when he crowned the Empress, she kneeling +before him.</p> + +<p>The Empress asked me if I was going straight back to +France, but she didn't say, as so many of the others did, +"Ce n'est pas adieu pour vous, Mdme. Waddington, mais +au revoir, car vous reviendrez certainement." Admiral +Jaurès having already resigned many people think W. +will be the next Ambassador, but he certainly won't +come.</p> + +<p>About 9 the Court retired. We had dined at 7, so the +whole thing took about two hours. It was quite light +when we came out of the Palace, and when we got back +to the Maison Klein we found the Embassy just finishing +dinner, still in the dining-room. We sat a few minutes +with them telling our experiences. W. had been next to +the Grand Duchess Michel, who was very animated and +intelligent, and extremely well posted in all literary and +political matters, and fairly just for a Princess speaking +about a Republic.</p> + +<p>Poor Pontécoulant has had a telegram telling him of +his brother's death. He is very much upset, and goes +off to-night. W. will miss him extremely—he was his +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_95" title="pg 95"> </a> +right-hand man. I have been out this morning shopping +with François de Courcelle. It isn't easy, as our +Russian is not fluent, but still we managed to find a few +things.</p> + +<p>This afternoon I have been with Lagrené (Consul), +Sesmaisons, Corcelle, and Calmon to the great institution +of the "Enfants Trouvés" fondée par l'Impératrice +Cathérine II. There we found Admiral Jaurès and all +his staff, and a director who showed us all over the +establishment—of course everything was in perfect order, +and perfectly clean (and I believe it always is), but I +should have preferred not having our visit announced, +so as to see the every-day working of the thing. We +went through quantities of rooms. In all, the Russian +nurses with their high head-dress (kakoshnik), the colour +of the room, were standing, and showed us most +smilingly their babies. The rooms are all known by +their colours and the nurses dressed to correspond. All +pink kakoshniks, for instance, in the pink room, blue +in the blue room, etc. It was rather effective when +all the women were standing in groups. The nurses +were decidedly young, some rather pretty faces, almost +all fair. The surveillante is a nice, kindly looking +woman. We saw the whole ceremony. In one of the +rooms of the rez-de-chaussée we saw several women +waiting to take the children. The operation is always +the same—one writes down at once the name and age +of the child (which is generally written on a piece of +paper pinned on to the clothes), they are always very +young, 5 or 6 days old. Then they are undressed, +weighed, and carried off by one of the nurses, wrapped up +in a blanket, to a bath. After the bath they are dressed +in quite clean, nice garments, and the nurse gives them +the breast at once. All the rooms, dortoirs, salles-debain, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_96" title="pg 96"> </a> +laundries, kitchens, are as clean as possible, plenty +of light and air, and no smells. We met Countess Pahlen +going out as we came in, also the Arch Duke Charles +Louis.</p> + +<p>As we still had time before dinner we went to see the +new church of St. Sauveur, where there is to be a great +ceremony of consecration to-morrow; but as it is principally +to celebrate the retreat of the French Army from +Moscow the two French Embassies abstain from that +function. We met there Prince Dolgourouky, Governor +of Moscow, who did the honours, and showed us the +marbles, which are very varied and handsome, all from +the provinces of the Empire. The place was full of workmen +putting up tribunes, red and gold draperies, etc., +but the Prince, with much tact, made no allusion to to-morrow's +function—so we apparently didn't notice anything +unusual in the church, and concentrated our attention +on the beautiful Russian marble.</p> + +<p class="author">11 o'clock.</p> + +<p>I will finish to-night. We have had our second diplomatic +dinner, and I found it pleasant, I hope the guests +did. I had Mgr.<sup><a href="#fn7" id="r7">[7]</a></sup> Vannutelli, the Nonce, next to me. He +is charming—such an easy talker. He arrived after the +sacre, as of course he could take no part in the ceremony. +He told me the dream of his life was to come to +Paris, and I think he would have a great success. He +and Prince Orloff talked very easily together, and Orloff +told him he ought to come to Paris. Orloff also says +that W. ought to come back here as Ambassador, that +he would be decidedly a "persona grata," but that isn't +W.'s impression. He has talked to a good many men +who are about the Court and the Emperor, and he thinks +a soldier, not a political man, would be a much better +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_97" title="pg 97"> </a> +appointment. We shall miss Pontécoulant awfully. He +is so easy-going and looks after everything, always +smoothing things over—very necessary in a temporary +Embassy like this where all pull apart a little, and there +is a sort of dull friction and rivalry between the soldiers +and the diplomatists. It is funny to live entirely with a +quantity of men, but they are all charming to me.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France, Moscow</span>,<br > +<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br > +Thursday, June 7th, 1883.</p> + +<p>W. and I have had such a quiet conjugal day that we +can hardly believe we are still "Ambassadeur Extraordinaire." +We breakfasted tête-à-tête, as all the gentlemen +have gone off to the Convent of St. Serge, which is one +of the things to see here. They have a very fine trésor. +The Emperor and Empress made retraite there before +the sacre. After breakfast W. looked over his despatches, +and I played a little some Russian music which +Benckendorff had given me.</p> + +<p>About three we started off for "les Moineaux," a hill +near Moscow from which Napoleon had his first view of +the city. There was no sun, which was a pity, as all the +colour of Moscow makes it so original and different from +everything else—however the city looked mysterious and +poetical in a sort of pink brume. We met various colleagues +going the same way—Nigra always in his +"Troika" (Russian attelage) and the Hunts. Nigra came +and joined us on the terrace, and we had tea together. +They offered us a great many things, but we declined +experiments, and kept on saying "Tchai" (which means +tea), until they brought it. Nigra told W. he should +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_98" title="pg 98"> </a> +taste the peculiar brandy of the country which all drink—prince +and peasant—but I think W. did not like it much. +Nigra was most agreeable. He is Italian Ambassador to +Petersburg, and knows everybody. He says Russian +Society is rather fermée, unless you take their ways and +hours. All the ladies receive late, after the theatres, +every evening. It is quite informal—a cup of tea, very +often music, and really interesting talk. He says the +women are remarkably intelligent and cultivated—en +masse cleverer than the men. I wonder if he would go +as far about them as Lord Lyons did about American +women. When he came back from America he said he +had <em>never</em> met a stupid American woman. We had a +pleasant hour on the terrace, and then started home +again.</p> + +<p>We crossed the Empress driving with her brother, +Prince Waldemar, in an ordinary open carriage (harnessed +Russian fashion—the three horses) and with no +escort nor <em>apparent</em> policemen of any kind. She looked +very well and smiling, and so young. There was not +much movement on the road—a few carriages and peasant's +carts. As soon as we got into Moscow we fell at +once into the same staring, quiet crowd; but I fancy +many people have already gone. The streets were not +nearly so full.</p> + +<p>I had just time to dress, and dined alone with the +gentlemen. W. and Général Pittié dined with the Nonce, +Mgr. Vannutelli, and were to go to Countess Pahlen's +reception afterwards. The expedition to the Convent +seems to have been very successful, but long. They gave +them breakfast in the refectory—a very frugal meal—and +showed them all their treasures. I stayed a little +while in the serre while they were smoking. Now they +have all gone out and I am not sorry to finish my evening +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_99" title="pg 99"> </a> +quietly in my little boudoir. I am getting quite accustomed +to my little room, with its ugly green and gold +silk furniture (quite hideous, such a bright, hard green). +The chairs and sofa are so heavy it takes two of us to +move them. There are quantities of tables and candles +(40 or 50 at least, no lamps of any description), in +branches, double candlesticks, etc. I have great difficulty +in persuading the little Russian maid not to light +them all, all the time; and when I have about 12 to dress +by she evidently considers me in the dark absolutely. I +<em>think</em> I have dressed sometimes with two, quite contented, +in the old days.</p> + +<p class="author">Friday, June 8th.</p> + +<p>I walked about a little with Corcelle this morning. +We went into one fur shop where we found a woman +who spoke French, but there was nothing very tempting. +They all advise us to wait for our furs at Petersburg, all +the best furs are sent there—however we bought a very +good fur lining for a driving coat (each of us) and I a +fur couverture—principally I think because the woman +was nice, and it was a pleasure to talk ourselves and not +through the little boy of the Consulate, of whom I am by +no means sure.</p> + +<p>At 10 o'clock W. had his farewell audience with the +Emperor, but it wasn't particularly interesting—an insignificant +conversation—might have been any emperor, +or any ambassador, of any country.</p> + +<p>After breakfast we went out again "en bande" with a +new polyglot youth this time—a young Frenchman whom +Lhermite had discovered. He took us to all sorts of +places, small shops and bazaars, where we had never +been. We bought a good many things, Circassian belts +and buckles of wrought silver, some studded with turquoises, +some enamelled—pretty work—Russian chains +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_100" title="pg 100"> </a> +and crosses, small Madonnas in curious brass frames—always +the black face on a gold ground, and +several of those beautiful, light Orenburg shawls, so fine +that they pass through a ring (we all tried) and yet fairly +large and warm when one shakes them out to the full +size. It was rather amusing going in and out of all the +funny little shops. We left the carriage in one of the +big streets and walked about.</p> + +<p>Now we have come home. I have had my tea alone +to-day. I must dress, as we dine early, 7 o'clock, on +account of our reception afterwards. I went with Lhermite +to see the flowers, fruit, bonbons, petits fours, etc., +which arrived this morning from Paris. It is extraordinary +how fresh they all look. There are dozens of +boxes in the dining-room and office, and the men are +putting the flowers all about the rooms, Lhermite superintending +the whole thing. He is an enormous help—I +don't know what we should have done without him.</p> + +<p>I am going to wear my white and silver brocade to-night, +the one I wore at the Palace gala dinner—my last +<em>full dress</em> in Moscow. I am rather shaken by my outing +this afternoon—the going in some of those crooked little +old streets was something awful. The holes in the so-called +pavement were appalling, and the paving-stones +tapered off generally to a sharp point. I think nothing +but a Russian carriage, driven by a Russian coachman +could have got along. I must say it is a straggling, +queer-looking town once you get out of the Kremlin +and the main streets. The houses are very far apart, +generally white and low, with large gardens, like a big +overgrown village.</p> + +<p class="tb"> </p> + +<p>Well, Dear, our reception is over. It is ended early, +as everything does here—and as I am wide awake I will +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_101" title="pg 101"> </a> +write at once. People began to come about 9.30, and +at 11.30 everyone had gone. The rooms looked well, +quantities of lights and flowers, everyone noticed the +flowers (there are so few here), which were heaped up +everywhere on consoles, mantelpieces, wherever one +could put them. We had a great many people—all our +colleagues in full force, but not so many Russians as we +expected. A good many were de service at the Palace, +where there was a function of some kind for Russians only +(the provinces), and I am sure many never received their +invitations, as it is impossible to find out where anyone +lives. I had a talk with General Richter and one or two +others, and then some of the younger members of the +party suggested dancing—of course we had no music, as +dancing had not been contemplated, but various amateurs +offered their services, and they had about half an hour +of waltzes. At the end they danced a little the Russian +mazurka, which I was very curious to see. It is quite +different from our cotillon or the Sir Roger de Coverley. +There are all sorts of steps and figures. The gentleman +takes his partner by the hand, holding it rather high (as +in the polonaise). They hold themselves very straight, +heads well back, as in a minuet, and do various figures. +The women have a quick, sliding step when they change +partners, which is very effective. I should think none +but Russians would dance it well—one must be born +to it.</p> + +<p>Prince Orloff stayed on a little after everyone had +gone, and we talked over all the fêtes, and principally +our own performances. He says he has heard plenty of +talk and criticisms of everything, and is much pleased +with the success of our Mission. I hope the people at +home will be satisfied.</p> + +<p>We had a dinner for all the French newspaper correspondents +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_102" title="pg 102"> </a> +the other day—and they expressed themselves +as quite gratified. They told us that one of the correspondents +(I forget which paper) had accepted W.'s +invitation, but the very day of the dinner there had been +such a violent attack on W. in his paper that he didn't +like to come, and sent an excuse. They say the +Times' account is the best—the Figaro also very good +(Wolff).</p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, June 9, 1883.</p> + +<p>The court is most amusing this morning—all the +gentlemen are trying their horses, superintending the +saddling, etc., as most of them follow the Emperor to-day +at the revue. The little Russian horses look very lively +and never stand still an instant. W. and I go together +in the d'Orsay, Corcelle preceding us in another carriage. +Benckendorff rides with all the others. Général +Pittié is rather bored, he hates riding, particularly on a +horse he doesn't know, so he and Fayet will only mount +at the Champ de Mars. They say the Emperor's suite +will be enormous—over 100. I wore my écru batiste +with the heavy white embroidery and the écru bonnet +with the wreath of pink and red roses. It is almost +white. (I wonder how I shall ever wear out all these +garments.)</p> + +<p>The day is beautiful. We started about 10, as we were +invited for 11 to the Tribune Impériale. The road out +was a sight—the middle alley had been kept for the +swells and Court, and there were quantities of Imperial +and Ambassadors' carriages, aides-de-camp, etc., dashing +about. I didn't see any handsome <em>private</em> equipages. +They told me the reason was that the swells were attached +to the Court and went about always in Court +carriages. Our gentlemen passed us riding—they had +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_103" title="pg 103"> </a> +rendezvous in the court-yard of the Palace Petrofski, +where the Emperor mounted. We went on to the Tribune. +The cortége started fairly punctually. First +came the Empress in a victoria with four white horses. +The Arch Duchess Charles Louis was seated next to her, +and on the box the Duchesse d'Edimbourg and the Grand +Duchess Wladimir, I think—at any rate another Princess. +There were 2 postilions, 2 mounted grooms, and +a piqueur. Then came the Emperor riding on the right +of the Empress's carriage, always on his little grey Cossack +horse, the Grand Duke Héritier and the Duke of +Edinburgh directly behind him, and then a long, glittering +suite of foreign Princes and officers. The Grand Duke +Wladimir commands the Gardes, and was on the field to +receive his brother. It is the first time I have seen the +Emperor without the Grand Duke Wladimir close behind +him. It was striking to see the stern, watchful face +always there. The Empress drove up and down the +lines, the Emperor riding alongside. It was difficult to +distinguish any uniforms, as they were rather far off, and +there were clouds of dust. As soon as the Empress had +passed her revue she came up to the Tribune and took up +her position directly in front, <em>standing</em> almost all the time. +The Emperor and his staff remained directly under the +Tribune to see the défilé. That of course was long—but +we had breakfast, also a sort of goûter always going on, +and servants appearing at intervals carrying trays with +tea, chocolate, orangeade, etc. All the Grand Duchesses +(not the Empress) moved about and talked to us. The +Duchesse d'Oldenburg sat down next me for some time +and told me about some of the regiments (Crimean +fame), named some of the generals, etc.</p> + +<p>I had tea with the Duchess of Edinburgh. She is easy, +clever, and was much interested in all that was going on, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_104" title="pg 104"> </a> +told me I must come to the front for the cavalry and Cossack +charge, and that it would be soon. I followed her +when she made the move—the infantry were just finishing—and +in the distance one saw a movement and a flash +of lances in the sun, which showed that the Cossacks were +getting ready. They passed like a whirlwind—so fast, +and in such clouds of dust that one saw nothing but the +glint of the lances, neither colour of uniforms, horses, +flags. All the troops, infantry as well as cavalry, saluted +the Emperor as they passed—a sort of dull sound, more +like a groan than a cheer—nothing like a ringing English +hurrah.</p> + +<p>That was the end, so I went to the Princess Kotchoubey, +Grande Maîtresse, to ask her if I should go and +take leave of the Empress, as she and the Emperor leave +Moscow to-morrow. She said the Empress wished us +all, Ambassadrices and femmes de chefs-de-Mission, to +stand near the door, and she would say good-bye to us +on her way out, so we moved down, and after waiting +a little she came. She made her circle very prettily, +shook hands with all, and talked a little, but she was evidently +tired and anxious to get away. She was dressed +in a curious dress, a sort of yellow cloth of gold, and gold +bonnet with red flowers—always her splendid pearl necklace.</p> + +<p>We had to wait some little time before our carriages +could get up, so I went back to the front of the Tribune +to see the troops disperse. It was a pretty sight +as they all filed off in long columns, music playing and +flags flying, and always little groups of Cossacks tearing +all over the place. I had another cup of tea with a very +good little cake while I was waiting. Lady Thornton +was tired and wanted one, so we sat there quite quietly +and had our tea. It was a lovely, bright, warm day, and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_105" title="pg 105"> </a> +we liked that better than waiting at the door in the +crowd until our carriages came.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus120.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Grand Duc Wladimir" id="illus120" title="Grand Duc Wladimir"> </a> +<p class="center small">Grand Duc Wladimir<br > +From a photograph by Bergamasco St Petersburg</p></div> + + +<p>We got back to the Embassy for breakfast, but were +not very hungry. We breakfasted alone with Corcelle, +as the other gentlemen breakfasted with all the Emperor's +suite at the Petrofski Palace. I am writing this +by fits and starts, as you will perceive. I began at 9 this +morning, and am finishing now at 10.30, after a pleasant +dinner at the Jaurès—merely our two Embassies, +everyone telling his experiences, amusing enough. The +Jaurès are quite ready to go. He wants to go to +sea again, and will command the Mediterranean Squadron, +and she is tired of Russia. I have no idea who will +succeed them, but as long as it isn't W. I don't much +care.</p> + +<p>Well, our fêtes are over. We shall have two days to +see Moscow quietly, and then break up. It has certainly +been most interesting, and now that it is over, and +we all have still our heads on our shoulders, I am very +glad we came, for I shall never see such a sight again.</p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, June 10th.</p> + +<p>Richard and I made an ineffectual attempt to go to the +English church this morning, but after driving half over +Moscow and going to various wrong addresses, which +had been given to us, we gave it up, and came home +rather mortified and well jibed at by the whole Embassy. +Just as we were going to breakfast Prince Ourousoff, one +of the Chamberlains, appeared to say that two special +trains would start for Petersburg on Monday and Wednesday +to take back the Corps Diplomatique, and asked +us which day would suit us best. W. preferred Wednesday. +W. must have a day or two to send off horses, +carriages, huissiers, cooks, etc., and also to see a little of +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_106" title="pg 106"> </a> +Moscow, for he has scarcely seen anything. All his days +were so taken up with the visits—those he made and +those he received—and his despatches, that he did little +but his morning ride on his funny little bay horse (which +he liked very much and which carried him well).</p> + +<p>This afternoon we have been sight-seeing with Benckendorff, +first to the Kremlin to see the private apartments +of the Emperor and Empress. The Court, with +all the foreign Princes and their suites, left last night +after the revue, and already one sees the difference in the +streets. The crowd of peasants has disappeared, there are +fewer carriages, flags and draperies are being removed +from all the buildings, and the circulation is so easy that +one can scarcely realize that only yesterday that brilliant +throng was making its way with difficulty through the +long, straight allée to the Champ de Mars. It is very +warm, the sun blazing, and the white dust very trying; +however we went about a good deal. We saw the Romanoff +house, an ordinary boyar house, with low, dark +rooms and a funny little winding staircase, but it had +evidently been quite done up (in the style of the epoch +of course), and I didn't find it very interesting.</p> + +<p>We went into numerous churches and towers, and +wound up with a visit to the Monastère Siminoff, from +where there is a splendid view over the city. We saw +the Director, who came out and showed us everything. +We dined quietly at home with the Embassy only. After +dinner, when smoking in the serre, the soldiers began +talking, fighting their battles over again—all that horrible +time between the Commune and Versailles, where +one of our Embassy, Fayet, was wounded. It is always +interesting when they talk seriously like that, but, Heavens, +how they shot people at the end, it makes one shiver.</p> + +<p>To-morrow will be a busy day, as all the packing must +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_107" title="pg 107"> </a> +be done. One of the French couturières here will send a +packer, and will come herself to help the maids. Lhermite, +with his cooks, footmen, etc., start Wednesday +morning early. They must cook us our last dinner Tuesday +night. Hubert, too, with carriages, horses, etc.</p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France à Moscow</span>,<br > +<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br > +Monday, June 11th, 1883.</p> + +<p>Well, Dear, this is my last letter from Moscow—you +will certainly never again have any letter from Maison +Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, and I suppose I shall never +see Moscow again. The court is again most lively (it +is certainly an unfailing interest to me, and I am always +looking out of the window). Someone has come from +one of the Grand Dukes, Michel, I think, to see the big +horses. Hawes was very anxious we should sell them in +Russia, if we could get a fair price. They have always +excited much attention and admiration, but they are very +big, and here the Russians are accustomed to a much +smaller race, prefer three small ones to one larger pair. +I don't know either if they could stand the climate. +There seems to be a perfect army of helpers packing carriages, +saddles, harness, and all the stable equipment. +Mdme. Gille (my couturière) has arrived. She has made +me a very nice little blue foulard shirt, I couldn't stand +my cloth body these hot days, and yet must travel in +that dress, as I have no other. When I think of the +furs that have always remained at the bottom of one of +the trunks—so many people told me that it would be +impossible to be in Russia in May and June without +furs. It is fair to say that Mdme. Jaurès told me it was +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_108" title="pg 108"> </a> +freezing still the morning they left Petersburg—which +seems incredible now. I send back all my big trunks +and swell garments with the Huberts. I shall keep out +only one or two dinner dresses for Petersburg. Poor +Mdme. Hubert is rather sad at leaving me, and going +back to France without having seen Petersburg, but of +course I don't want two maids any longer.</p> + +<p>This afternoon I went out with Richard for some last +shopping. The city is completely changed—not a +creature nor a carriage, nor servants in livery, nothing +but a deserted city. We met the Austrian Ambassador +walking about in a blue flannel vest and a pot hat. The +courts of the Kremlin were méconnaissables, not a soul, +hardly a soldier—one or two small detachments of Cossacks +at the gates. It is an extraordinary change in such +a short time. It has become a sleepy little provincial +town.</p> + +<p>We had two or three gentlemen to dinner, M. d'Orval, +ancien officier de Chasseurs, just back from a tour in +the Caucasus with the Duc de Chartres, and a Russian +merchant for whom Richard had letters—the first person +I have seen in Russia who was neither noble nor +peasant. Both men were interesting enough. The Russian +talked prudently, but fairly openly—said there must +be a great change—things couldn't go on as they did +now, there was a young generation to be reckoned with, +active, educated, intelligent, and they must have their +say—that when the uprising came there would be a +Revolution such as Europe had never seen. I wonder.</p> + +<p>After dinner we went to the Hermitage, the great public +gardens. They are pretty enough, large, with trees +and bosquets, and every variety of amusement—theatres, +concerts, dancing, and even conjurors. Some shepherds +from the Wladimir Government with long yellow +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_109" title="pg 109"> </a> +cloaks and high hats were playing a sort of reed pipe, +curious enough. At last I heard some of the Russian +national songs—a quartette was singing them in one +of the theatres. They are very pretty, monotonous, with +an undercurrent of sadness. They sang very true, and +the voices are rich, not at all the thin, high northern +voice that one expected to hear. We stayed there so +long, looking at the various things, that we didn't get +home until 12.30—much the latest entertainment I have +been to in Moscow, except the Palace ball, where the +<ins title="Transcriber's note: original text read 'suppper'">supper</ins> of course prolonged the festivities.</p> + +<p class="author">Monday, June 11th.</p> + +<p>It was so warm to-day and I had so much to do with +the trunks—separating the things—that I only went out +after tea, and of course did a little more shopping. I +wanted some photographs and also some music—however +Benckendorff said he would see about that for me. +We dined quite alone with the Embassy—a good dinner +perfectly served, tho' Lhermite leaves to-morrow. +He came up to get his last instructions from W. while +we were having tea. His experiences are most amusing—he +says he has learnt a great deal of the language and +the Russian ways of doing business, and if ever he comes +back he will know how to take care of himself. He became +quite excited at remembering various occasions +when he had been "roulé."</p> + +<p>After dinner W. and I went for a last drive, to look +at the Kremlin by moonlight—and beautiful it was—the +sky was so blue one could almost see it like the Italian +summer sky, and all the great white buildings and towers +stood out gloriously. The great church of St. Basile +was extraordinary. The colours, pink, green, red, yellow, +all so vivid that even at night one quite made them out. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_110" title="pg 110"> </a> +It is a mass of towers, domes, and cupolas, every one +different in shape, work, and colour. It was planned and +executed by an Italian architect, and the story is that the +Czar (of the epoch) was so pleased, and at the same +time so afraid he might make another like it, that he had +his eyes put out. It was curiously dark and quiet inside—scarcely +any light; here and there a glimmer high +up in one of the Palace rooms. We met two or three +carriages with colleagues driving about in the moonlight +like ourselves. The river, too, looked beautiful from the +terrace—a broad silver band with moonlight full upon it. +I took a last look at the black +<ins title="Transcriber's note: original text read 'Madonnna'">Madonna</ins> in the gateway, +and the little guard of Cossacks. I shall often think +of that last night in the Kremlin when I have returned +to civilization and modern life.</p> + +<p>I will send this off by to-morrow's courier. My next +letter will be from Petersburg. My little boudoir still +looks very nice. The little Russian maid is rather sad, +and has been in and out 20 times, lighting candles, opening +and shutting doors and windows, and keeping up a +stream of conversation which I can't possibly understand, +though the maids say they do. W. is deep in last despatches, +and has departed to his own quarters. I +haven't learnt any Russian, which I think is rather weak +on my part. I thought I would have some lessons at +first, but I don't think I could have learnt much in two +weeks. Lagrené was discouraging—says he knows very +little, and his mother is a Russian.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_111" title="pg 111"> </a></p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Hotel Demouth, Petersburg</span>,<br > +Jeudi, 14 Juin, 1883.</p> + +<p>We arrived here last night at 12.30. The journey was +comfortable enough, but long—the Russian trains do +not go a terrifying pace. We left Moscow at 9.30, and +the Maison Klein a little before 9. The départ was +quite imposing—all the personnel drawn up at the foot +of the stairs, Lhermite and the three coachmen outside +at the door, and a regiment of understrappers of all +kinds. The little Russian maid was weeping and kissing +my skirts. The faithful Benckendorff accompanied us to +the station and saw us safely deposited in our wagon-salon—each +Ambassador had one and a smaller one for +the suite. Two Chamberlains, not attired in velvet and +gold lace this time,—I felt rather aggrieved at having +ordinary mortals in plain clothes to look after us—were +waiting at the station to see that everything was well +done, and they went with us to Petersburg. There was +a Mongole at the door of our wagon who appeared at +intervals with tea, oranges, and much information of all +kinds (in Russian). We had all our meals en route—breakfast +at 11, dinner at 4.30, a nondescript sort of +meal, half goûter, half supper, with cold fish, fowl, mayonnaise, +etc., at 8—and a very pretty little tea at 10.30. +We all partook of every meal—how we managed to eat chicken and +<ins title="Transcriber's note: original text read 'mayonnaaise'">mayonnaise</ins> at 8, having dined at 4.30, +seems a mystery, but we did.</p> + +<p>It was very hot at starting—the sun pouring down on +the plains that are around Moscow—not an atom of +shade, but there was a sharp shower about 2 which cooled +the air. They tell us Petersburg too is very hot. The +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_112" title="pg 112"> </a> +day passed quickly enough. Many of our colleagues +came and paid us visits. The Nuncio sat a long time. +He is most interesting, with that delightful, simple, easy +Italian manner. He asked us a great deal about the religious +ceremony the day of the Coronation. He had +only arrived after that. He is very clever and sympathetic, +ready to talk about anything, and so moderate +in his views. I think he would have a great success in +Paris, where people love to discuss and analyze everything.</p> + +<p>Our Spanish colleague also came and sat with us. It +seems he wanted W. to come to his carriage and drink +champagne and play cards (very high play too), but it +was conveyed to him that these were not exactly M. +Waddington's tastes. Rumour says he was naively surprised, +and said, "Comment, il ne joue pas!—le pauvre +homme!" They were certainly a very merry party—we +heard roars of laughter every time the train stopped. +If anyone was losing heavily he took it most cheerfully.</p> + +<p>Our last little tea at 10.30 was really very pretty—several +round tables very well arranged with flowers, tea, +orangeade, and other drinks—cakes, petits fours, etc. +(but no more solid food). W. struck and wouldn't get +out, but Richard and I and the rest of the men were quite +ready to see what was going on. Do you remember +how I always loved getting out at all the buffets at no +matter what time of night, when we used to go down to +Italy every year? I think the buffet at Bologna with +its "fricandeau de veau" is one of my most interesting +souvenirs of travel (not from an artistic point of view).</p> + +<p>The arrival at Petersburg was curious. It was quite +light, and there were as many people at the station and +in the streets as if it were 12 o'clock in the day. We read +distinctly the names and numbers of the streets and the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_113" title="pg 113"> </a> +signs of the shops, and yet it wasn't altogether daylight—more +like a late summer afternoon. We found very +comfortable rooms here—a large salon with large bedrooms +on either side, and a room next to me for Adelaïde. +I was quite ready to go to bed—the heat and dust +were trying, and yet it seemed funny to go to bed by +daylight. They brought tea of course, but we really +couldn't do any more, so I departed to my own room. +There I quite lost the impression of daylight, as there +were double, even triple curtains to all the windows.</p> + +<p>This morning we slept late and breakfasted at 12.30, +then W., Richard, and I went off in a carriage to the +Hermitage (the great Museum). W. sent in his card to +the Director of the Museum and also to the head of the +Cabinet des Médailles, as he wants a week's work at the +medals. It seems there is a splendid collection here. +The gentlemen were very civil, and we made rendezvous +for to-morrow, W. for the medals and Richard and I for +the pictures. The Hermitage is an immense museum. +We shall only be able to have an idea of what is in it. +We walked through some of the rooms—Peter the +Great's gallery, which is full of course of souvenirs—his +clothes, arms, tools, furniture, horse stuffed, etc., and in +another there were quantities of bibelots of all kinds, and +presents given to Peter and Catherine II—a collection of +snuff boxes, crystal flagons, and goblets (some with +precious stones encrusted in the glass), jewelled belts and +caps—most interesting.</p> + +<p>We had our first view of the Neva from the windows of +one of the rooms. It rushes past like the sea, so broad +and strong, with very fair waves, a splendid river. We +stayed about an hour lounging through the rooms, and +then went on for a general view of the city. It is very +handsome, but has no particular cachet (except the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_114" title="pg 114"> </a> +Neva) at this season of the year—one ought to see it in +winter when the river is frozen and the real winter life begins. +It looks so modern after Moscow. We went to +the great cathedral of St. Isaac. It is very big and imposing +as a mass, but the architecture not very striking—afterwards +to the fortress and church of St. Peter and +St. Paul, where all the Emperors are buried—to Peter +the Great's house (a most ordinary little wooden building), +drove a little along the quais, where the lovely fresh +breeze from the river was most welcome and invigorating +after the heat and dust of Moscow.</p> + +<p>There was a good deal of life on the river, boats of all +kinds. We think of going by steamer to Stockholm, +all along the coast of Finland. They tell us it is a beautiful +journey, particularly at this time of year, with the +long, clear evenings. I want to see the boat before we +decide, as I have an idea that it wouldn't be very clean +(they say the boats on the rivers Volga, etc., are something +terrible). We wound up in the Perspective +Nevsky—the great shopping street, but didn't get out +of the carriage, merely drove through. The shops look +handsome and the vitrines well arranged, just like Paris. +There was very little animation in the streets and very +few carriages. They tell us many people have already +gone away for the summer.</p> + +<p>We dined quietly at the hotel, and just as we were +finishing Admiral Jaurès came in to suggest that we +should dine at Peterhof to-morrow afternoon. He says +it is a very nice excursion—a short hour on the boat, and +we can get a fair dinner there. About 9.30 we started +again in the carriage to drive to the Islands or "La +Pointe"—the great rendezvous in summer of all Petersburg. +It is a long hour's drive, crossing quantities of +small islands all connected by bridges, and one finally +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_115" title="pg 115"> </a> +arrives at the "Pointe," end of the drive, and entrance of +the Gulf of Finland. There all the carriages draw up, +the people get down and walk about, or sit on the +benches at the water's edge—a regular salon—in summer +one sees all the people who are still "en ville" there. +The place in itself is not at all pretty. The water of the +Gulf is grey, the banks low, no trees—but the air was +delicious.</p> + +<p>We met almost all our Moscow colleagues—also +Princess Lise Troubetzkoi, who was delighted to see W. +and plunge into Paris politics. She wanted us to go +back and have tea with her, but it was 11 o'clock and +I was tired, having been going all day—evidently that is +what people do, as several of our colleagues too asked +us, and expressed great surprise at our wanting to go +home so early.</p> + +<p>We didn't get back to the hotel until 12, and then +loitered a little in the salon, as the windows were open, +people walking and driving about the streets, and +nothing to make us think it was midnight, or at least the +midnight we are accustomed to. They brought us some +tea, and a little before one, making many excuses, I retired, +rather feeling as if I were going to bed with the +chickens.</p> + +<p class="author">Friday, June 15th.</p> + +<p>We have been all the morning at the Hermitage, and +I will write a little now after breakfast, before we start +for Peterhof. We took ourselves off early in a droshky +(Russian fiacre), the porter telling the coachman where +to drive to; and telling us how much to give him. It +was a lovely morning, not too warm, and we enjoyed +our drive. W. was shown at once to the Cabinet des +Médailles, where the Conservateur was waiting for him, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_116" title="pg 116"> </a> +and Richard and I were taken in hand by a young man +attached to the Museum who knew his work well, and +was remarkably intelligent, speaking French quite well. +The pictures are beautiful—there are quantities of every +possible school. The finest we thought the Van Dycks +and the Rembrandts, though some of the Italian Madonnas +were lovely too. I like the Italian Madonna face so +much—it is so pure and young and passionless. Our +guide was very talkative, and very anxious to know what +we thought of the Moscow ceremonies. We stayed +about two hours, seeing all sorts of things "en passant" +besides the pictures. The whole Museum is crowded—I +don't think they could get much more in.</p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, June 16th.</p> + +<p>Our excursion to Peterhof was delightful yesterday +afternoon. We took the four o'clock boat, and had a +nice sail down of an hour and a quarter. The Jaurès +came with us, also Pittié, Fayet, and Calmon. Corcelle +went back to Paris from Moscow—also Sesmaisons, +so our Mission is decidedly diminished. We met several +of our Moscow friends on the boat—General Richter, +Comte Worontzoff, and some others. The Court is at +Peterhof and they are all established there. They told +us the Emperor and Empress were not very tired after +the excitement and emotions of the Coronation—very +happy that all had gone so smoothly, and now quite +pleased to be quietly at Peterhof with their children.</p> + +<p>The Russians are very proud of Peterhof, call it a +"petit Versailles," and "petit" it certainly is in comparison; +but the park is pretty, well laid out, with terraces +and gardens, and the water-works really very good +indeed. A very good Circassian band was playing, and +a good many people walking about. What was lovely +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_117" title="pg 117"> </a> +and quite unlike Versailles were the glimpses of the sea +one had on all sides. We got carriages and drove all +about. We went into the big Palace, where the present +Emperor never lives. He prefers a small place, half farm, +half cottage, close to the sea, and lives there quite contentedly +and quietly like an ordinary country gentleman. +However we couldn't get anywhere near that villa—the +gates and alleys were closed, and guards and soldiers +everywhere.</p> + +<p>We dined very badly at a restaurant we had been told +of on the sea, and took the 10 o'clock boat home. The +return was enchanting—a beautiful starlight night, and +fresh, soft breeze. I had a nice talk with Mdme. Jaurès, +who told me a good deal of Russian ways and life. I +think she is glad to go back to France, and "au fond" +there are very few French women who care to <em>live</em> +abroad altogether. After three or four years they get +homesick for their own country. She asked me if I was +never homesick for America—but I told her I had been +so long away, and my life had been such a full one that +I sometimes asked myself was I the same little girl that +used to run wild in the country at home with a donkey +cart and a big Newfoundland dog. Those years seem so +long ago the memory is getting duller. Sometimes I +shut my eyes and see quite well the big white house with +the piazzas, and the climbing roses, the cherry trees, and +the white gate with the sharp turn, and the ditch where +we upset so often in the sleighs—all the children tumbling +out into the snow drift, and nobody minding.</p> + +<p>We got home at 11.30 and found letters, which we +read quite easily at the window. It is a wonderful light—no +one ever seems to think of going to bed.</p> + +<p>This morning we have been again at the Hermitage to +finish the pictures. Decidedly the Rembrandts are the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_118" title="pg 118"> </a> +gems of the collection. There was one old man in a sort +of fur robe and cap, with a wrinkled yellow face, whose +eyes seemed quite alive, and followed us all round the +room. We left W. with his medals and a sort of clerk +attached to the Cabinet des Médailles. It seems they +never leave anybody alone in the room with the medals. +W. is delighted, he has found some rare coins he had +never seen, and he means to have a good day's work, +will not come back to breakfast with us.</p> + +<p>Our young man, Baron Leeven, is always with us, and +meets us at the Winter Palace this afternoon to show us +the rooms. Our Mission is dwindling; Fayet went +off this morning, Pittié and Calmon go Monday. Richard +remains to make the journey with us to Stockholm +by sea. We have just come in from a pleasant dinner at the +<ins title="Transcriber's note: original text read 'Juarès'">Jaurès</ins>'. The Embassy is small, but very +well arranged, and we had a very good, handsome dinner. +All the personnel of the Embassy, Vannutelli and +his two auditeurs, and the French Consul and his wife. Admiral +<ins title="Transcriber's note: original text read 'Juarès'">Jaurès</ins> was very hospitable and en train—all +sailors are, I wonder why? The officers of high rank +must have so many lonely hours, and are such swells +on their ships, where no one can associate much with +them, that one would think it would make them rather +silent and reserved from long habit—but it is quite the +contrary. In all nations sailors are generally cultivated, +and good talkers.</p> + +<p>We shall become quite intimate with Vannutelli. We +met him at the Winter Palace this afternoon, and went +all about together. I can't say I found it very interesting. +The rooms are handsome—high, generally white, +with quantities of pictures—the portraits, some very old +ones, interesting—the large modern pictures of battles +by sea and land less so. I like very much the pictures of +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_119" title="pg 119"> </a> +Peter the Great. He has a keen, striking face, must have +had splendid eyes, very intelligent, in some of the portraits +almost inspired, <em>hard</em>, not cruel. They were very +anxious to show us the rooms where the late Emperor +died, but there had been some mistake, and the man who +has charge of the room could not be found, nor the key +either. I was very glad (not that I should have gone +in), for they said it was a horrid sight—the camp-bed +and even his clothes left as they were, thick with blood. +He was carried there directly after the attentat, and died +on the little camp-bed. What I liked best was the splendid +view again of the Neva from the windows of the ballroom. +It looked a beautiful blue sea, the waves dancing +in the afternoon light, and all the white sails standing out +well in the sun. The two young men who were with us +were most amusing. They showed us all the pictures in +detail <em>except</em> those concerning the Grande Armée and the +disastrous retreat. We were hurried past them, "rien de +très intéressant, Madame—pas la peine de s'arrêter——."</p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, June 17th.</p> + +<p>This morning we went to the French Protestant +Church—a large room with white walls, and benches. +There were very few people, but they tell us it is fairly +full in winter. There is a large French colony—shopkeepers, +theatre people, etc., and a great many Protestants. +The Pasteur preached a very fair, sensible sermon.</p> + +<p>After breakfast we had some visitors—Sir Edward +Thornton, who wants us to dine one night; and a nice +man, a Russian (whose name I never knew), but who +told us to come to this hotel in which he is interested, +and who has offered to go shopping with us one day, +and show us the best fur-shops. We went for a drive +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_120" title="pg 120"> </a> +in the afternoon to the Park Catherine, where a sort of +fête populaire was going on. There were a great many +people, and a great many policemen (as there always are +here), one would think they lived in perpetual fear of an +émeute, and yet the people all looked so subdued and repressed—I +haven't seen one fierce face. The quantity +of moujiks in their red shirts made a good effect of +colour, but the women are not attractive, nor pretty. +All are wrapped up in shawls, with a handkerchief over +their heads.</p> + +<p>We had a pleasant dinner at the Hunts' (United States +Legation), all their people, including of course George +Wurts, whom I was very pleased to see again—Admiral +Baldwin and his two Aides-de-camp Rogers and Paul, +and M. et Mdme. de Struve. They are just going to +America—he is named Minister there. They have been +in Japan, and didn't seem very keen about America. I +should think they would like it better than Japan, but I +believe he hoped for some post in Europe. She was +very amusing, and from her account life in Japan must +still be very primitive.</p> + +<p>We came away early—about 10.30—and have been +poring over guide-books ever since, making out our +journey, always at the window (11 o'clock at night, and +with no lamps).</p> + +<p class="author">Tuesday, June 19th.</p> + +<p>We had a charming afternoon yesterday at Cronstadt +on the Lancaster, Admiral Baldwin's flag-ship. He had +invited all the Corps Diplomatique, and the few Russians +who are still in Petersburg, Jomini, Struve, Benckendorff, +etc. We started about 3.30 in the regular Russian +steamer, and once under way the breeze was delicious. +I wore my white batiste with Valenciennes, and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_121" title="pg 121"> </a> +a big black hat (which wasn't very practical on the +steamer, as the wind blew the feathers about considerably, +but I thought it looked so nice with the white +dress). The American ship looked beautiful as we drew +near—an old-fashioned frigate, all dressed with flags. +The getting on board was not very easy, as she lay far +out, and we had to get into small boats from our +steamer and go out to her. It didn't look very pleasant +when they put the steps down and told us to jump. +There were fair waves, and when they told us to jump +the boat was apparently nowhere near, but of course +swung under the steps on the top of the wave at the +right moment. Lady Thornton got down all right, so +did I; but one of our colleagues had a most trying time. +She was stout and nervous, looked wretched when she +was standing on the steps between two strong sailors +who told her to jump. She did her best, poor thing, and +several times we in the boat below saw a stout white leg +suddenly descend, but it was immediately drawn back, +and she never let go of her sailors. Her husband, man-like, +was furious, which of course made her much more +nervous; however, after several attempts she gave it up, +and they lowered her in an arm-chair, which didn't look +quite comfortable either when it was suspended in the +air waiting for the boat to arrive.</p> + +<p>We danced about well in the little boat, for every time +it came up, and she didn't come down, we had to go back +and repeat the performance. The American Legation +got off first and were received by a salute of 15 guns, and +then we followed. The Admiral with all his officers received +us at the top of the ladder, and the band played +our national airs, and they gave the Ambassador's salute, +17 guns, and a great noise it made just over our heads +as we were mounting the ladder. Lady Thornton and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_122" title="pg 122"> </a> +her husband were in front of me, and I heard the "God +Save The Queen"—then came the "Marseillaise," and +for a moment I forgot I was a Frenchwoman and looked +to see whom the "Marseillaise" was for (W. hadn't come +in the boat with me, waited for the second one), but I +recovered myself in time to bow and smile my thanks.</p> + +<p>I was delighted to find myself on an American ship, +I so rarely see American officers of any kind. The ship +was in splendid condition, so beautifully clean. We had +a very handsome dinner in the Admiral's cabin. He +took me down to see the table before all the guests came, +and very pretty it looked, quantities of flowers and some +handsome silver. No one enjoyed the day more than +Mgr. Vannutelli. He had a little doubt about coming, +as he heard there was to be dancing, and consulted us +about it. We told him the dancing would be mild, and +he might never have a chance to see a big American +ship again, and strongly advised him to come.</p> + +<p>While Lady Thornton and I were sitting together one +of the young officers came up to her (she knew several +of them, as they were some years in Washington) saying +he heard one of the Ambassadresses was an American, +did she know which one, and could she introduce him. +"Certainly," she said, "it is Madame Waddington, wife +of the French Ambassador, who is sitting next to me +now," and immediately presented the young man, who +said he had been looking at all the ladies to see which +was the American, but hadn't placed me, he supposed +because he heard me speaking French. We became +great friends, and he took me all over the ship. We +danced a little on deck—a quadrille d'honneur—I with +my friend Schimmelpenninck, Lady Thornton with +Jaurès, Madame Jaurès with Admiral Baldwin. Then we +left the dancing to the young ones and sat quietly on +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_123" title="pg 123"> </a> +deck till it was time to go. Just as we were starting the +Admiral asked me if I would say a few words to the band—they +were almost all Italians. I went over at once and +talked to them, so did the Nuncio, which of course delighted +them.</p> + +<p>We started back about 9 in a special Russian steamer. +The sea was much calmer, and the getting off one boat +and on another was not such a difficult operation even +for poor Mdme. A——. The sail back was about two +hours—quite enchanting in that beautiful northern twilight, +and we were all sorry when it came to an end.</p> + +<p>This morning it is very warm, and I am rather seedy, +so I have stayed quietly at home. Richard and I breakfasted +tête-à-tête, as W. was off at an early hour to his +medals, and won't be back until dark. I wonder if the +Russian officials will be as astonished at his capacity for +a long spell of work as the Italians were. <em>They</em> struck +after <em>two</em> days of such work, and then took it in turns. +One day at Milan I went to get him at the end of the +day, as we were going to drive somewhere in the country, +so the Italian smiled all over, and almost winked, saying, +"Ah, Madame est venue voir si Monsieur était vraiment +aux Médailles toute la journée." I suppose he felt that +he wouldn't have stayed working all those hours, and +also quite understood that I suspected W. of doing +something else.</p> + +<p>We have had a nice visit from Benckendorff, who has +told us all about the boat we want to take to go to +Stockholm. He says they are Swedish boats, very clean, +and very good food; also very few people at this time +of the year.</p> + +<p>Now I must dress and go with Richard to pay some +visits. Calmon will go and see you and give you all our +news. He won't tell you what I will, that he had a great +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_124" title="pg 124"> </a> +success in Moscow—his artillery uniform, the astrakhan +tunique, was very becoming—all the ladies found him +"très beau garçon." I must add too that Richard also +had a great success—evidently artillery uniform is becoming. +It was rather amusing to see the face of one of +the young ladies when I made some reference to Madame +Richard Waddington. "M. Waddington married—I +never should have dreamed of it"—and after a moment, +"What is his wife like?" doubtfully. "Is she pretty?" +"Well, yes, she is very pretty." Richard won't tell you +that either when he comes back, but I shall tell Louise.</p> + +<p>How curious all the Moscow life will seem when I am +settled again at Bourneville—walking in the park with +the children, riding all over the country with W., and +leading an absolutely quiet life. I hope I shall remember +all I want to tell you.</p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Hôtel Demoult, Petersburg</span>,<br > +Wednesday, June 20th, 1883.</p> + +<p>Richard and I went visiting yesterday. We found the +Thorntons, who gave us tea. Their Embassy is charming—a +big house on the Quai Anglais. The drawing-rooms +are large and high. All the windows look out +on the Neva, and they say it is quite beautiful at night. +Then we went back to the hotel, got W., who had had a +fine morning with his medals—says the collection is magnificent, +much larger than he had any idea of, and started +off to the Quais to see our boat. We leave to-morrow +evening between 6 and 7. It looked very nice and clean, +and the Captain was quite overwhelmed with the distinguished +passengers he was to have the honour of +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_125" title="pg 125"> </a> +transporting. We have an enormous cabin (two thrown +into one) big enough for a family. I interviewed the +stewardess, a nice fresh-looking Norwegian woman. +Conversation was rather difficult, as I spoke German +and she Norwegian, and neither of us understood the +other, but I am sure we shall get on very well. They +tell us the voyage is enchanting, all in and out of small +fiords, islands, and narrow rivers. We stop five or six +hours each day to see the country, and never have any +sea until we cross to Stockholm, when it is generally +rough.</p> + +<p>We dined quietly at the hotel with Coutouly, our +Consul, a very nice man, very intelligent. He too had +interviewed the Captain, and told him to take every care +of us. He says the trip is enchanting, and the two Finnish +towns, Helsingfors and Abo, very well worth seeing. +About 10 o'clock we drove off to the "Pointe" and had +a pleasant hour with some of the colleagues. It is always +cool there, and the drive out is interesting, so unlike +anything else.</p> + +<p>Richard went off early this morning with Sermet and +Moulin of the French Embassy to see the Falls of +Smatra, which are said to be very fine. We pick him +up at Helsingfors.</p> + +<p>I walked about a little with Adelaïde—I never see +anything the least like a femme du monde in the streets. +I suppose the "société" are away for the summer, and +the streets look rather as September streets do in Paris.</p> + +<p>W. and I dined at the Thorntons'—handsome and +pleasant. Jaurès was there, not his wife, she has already +started for Paris, and the Ternaux Compans, a nice young +ménage (just married) attached to the Embassy. She +was very well dressed, in white. There was also the +Danish Minister (I forget his name). He is a friend of +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_126" title="pg 126"> </a> +the Empress and très bien vu à la cour. After dinner +someone played on the piano, and he and Mary Thornton +danced a little, showing us some of the figures of the +mazurka. Lady Thornton says, like everyone else, that +the society of Petersburg is very fermé. They know +everybody, but I fancy very few of the diplomatists make +real friends with anyone. I was rather surprised, as the +Russians one meets abroad are generally very easy and +sociable. She also finds the climate very trying. She +showed me all the rooms, which are charming. In all +the bedrooms very thick curtains, as the light is most +trying, and of course people who live there must have +regular hours for sleep—for us birds of passage it is of +no consequence, and going to bed seems the last thing +one would think of doing in Petersburg.</p> + +<p>We came home about 11, and now W. is busy over +his Paris letters, also putting his notes in order, as he +has finished with the medals. He has had three or four +days of real hard work, but says it rested him after all the +Court festivities.</p> + +<p class="author">Jeudi, 21 Juin.</p> + +<p>We have been shopping all the morning,—W. and I +and M. Lomatch (I have found his name). We bought, +among other things, a sled for Francis—I haven't seen +one since I left America—and a good deal of Russian +lace, which they say is very solid, and embroidery. We +came back to a late breakfast, and I am writing now at +the last moment while they are carrying down the trunks. +We are going at 4 to the steamer to leave our boxes +and Adelaïde, and install ourselves, and then go for tea +to Coutouly, who has an apartment on the Quai, just opposite +the wharf where the steamer starts from. I am +quite sorry to go. We are very comfortable here, and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_127" title="pg 127"> </a> +the streets are so amusing. I should like once to hear a +little laughing and singing, as the various groups of +work-people, soldiers, and peasants pass—but they are a +curiously sad, subdued race.</p> + +<p class="author">Friday, June 22d. "En mer."</p> + +<p>We are just approaching Helsingfors (twelve o'clock), +where we go on shore for some hours, and I will write +a little. I have a nice straw arm-chair on deck (the sail +shades me), a table with books, papers, etc. We embarked +at 6.30 yesterday. We went on the boat about +4—saw the Captain, a very nice man, a Finn, who speaks +English quite well, and who is much pleased to have us +on his boat. He went down to the cabin with us, which +is really a large, airy room, with two very fair beds, and +a sort of recess which makes a dressing-room. It opens +into the ladies' cabin, where he had also arranged the end +near our cabin for us—two arm-chairs, a table, etc. Adelaïde +has a nice state-room just opposite—also Richard. +There were not many people on board—and he said he +hadn't many passengers, chiefly men.</p> + +<p>We left cloaks, books, etc., and walked across to the +Coutoulys', who have a nice apartment directly on the +river. It is so broad and swift one feels almost as if one +was on the sea-shore. There is much passing all the +time, and a good many little posts, as at Venice, where +the boats are tied. They gave us tea, and about 6 we +went back to the boat.</p> + +<p>Jaurès was there with some of his young men, and +Benckendorff, who came to say a last good-bye this time. +We gave him rendezvous in Paris, as we should like very +much to do something for him. He was untiring and +devoted to us all the time we were at Moscow—never +tired, always taking a great deal of trouble to see that +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_128" title="pg 128"> </a> +we were well taken care of, and helping us in every way. +I found three or four handsome bouquets in the cabin—one +from him, and one from M. Lomatch, the proprietor +of our hotel. He has written to the hotel at Stockholm +for rooms for us. We arrive Sunday morning—have +three nights at sea. Adelaïde is quite excited at the +prospect of a real voyage "en mer."</p> + +<p>We had a very good supper about 8.30, just as we +were passing Cronstadt. We have made a very nice +arrangement for our meals. The idea of a table-d'hôte +with all the people who are on board (many more than +I thought) was appalling, so we are to have all our +meals half an hour before the others at a small table in +the dining-room. It is a most satisfactory arrangement, +and we had a nice quiet hour on deck while +the other passengers were supping. It was a lovely +evening—the sea absolutely calm, and so warm I hardly +needed my cloak. We sat late on deck. They brought +us a table with tea and Swedish punch, which seems to +be the favourite drink here.</p> + +<p>The passengers all came up after their supper. They +were quiet enough—all had tea, punch, and cigars, and +a great many played cards. The men look like commis-voyageurs, +or small shopkeepers—almost all, I should +think, Swedes or Norwegians. There are three or four +English women and girls, governesses, the Captain tells +me, going to Stockholm and Christiania.</p> + +<p>We went down to our cabin about 12—always the +same curious grey light. I slept perfectly well. It +seemed to me there was a little roulis about 3 o'clock +(I heard a clock strike somewhere), but it was only pleasant. +I was up at 8 and had my tea and toast in the +ladies' cabin close to a port-hole, and was rather sorry +I hadn't had it on deck. I went up as soon as I had +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_129" title="pg 129"> </a> +finished. We were passing through a series of little +bays, all dotted over with islands, some fairly large, some +merely a granite rock with a pine tree on it.</p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, June 23d. "En mer."</p> + +<p>I was interrupted yesterday by the Captain, who came +to get us to stand on the passerelle with him and see the +approach to Helsingfors. The bay has widened out into +a sea, and the harbour seems important. There are lots +of ships and steamers—also small boats going backwards +and forwards between them and the quais. The men in +the boats wear a red cap, something like the Neapolitan +fishermen. The town stands out well—there are high +cliffs rising straight out of the sea, and a great many +steeples (not the green and pink cupolas of Moscow).</p> + +<p>We found Richard and our Consul waiting for us on +the Quai, and we drove at once to the hotel, and breakfasted. +The steamer remains until 12 o'clock to-night, +so we have ample time to see the town. Just as we were +finishing breakfast a gentleman appeared, a director of +something (Postes et Télégraphes, I think) who came +to do the honours in the absence of the Governor. He +had an open carriage with a pair of nice little Russian +horses, and drove us all over the town. Helsingfors is +the capital of Finland, and I believe flourishing enough. +The town is small and rambling—entirely surrounded +by water, and quantities of little islands connected by +bridges. I think we must have crossed about 20. Some +of the villas are large with nice gardens. The Director +showed us his, which looked pretty and comfortable. +The streets are narrow—not much movement. The +names of the streets are written in three languages—Russian, +Swedish, Finnish. All the functionaries are +Russian, the small merchants and shopkeepers Swedish, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_130" title="pg 130"> </a> +and the peasants and sailors Finns. They (Finns) have +a very marked type of their own, not particularly Russian, +nothing of the Tartar, only very Northern.</p> + +<p>We dined at the famous Café du Parc. W. invited +the Director and the Consul to dine with us, and we had +a pleasant little dinner, fairly good. There was a good +orchestra, who had evidently been told who we were, for +as soon as we arrived they played the "Marseillaise" very +well. It caused quite a sensation among the people who +were dining, as they evidently hadn't noticed particularly +the quiet party which came in—all of us of course in +travelling dresses. The chef d'orchestre asked our Director +if we would like to hear some national airs—which +they played very well, and then I asked for the +Polonaise from Glinka's "La Vie pour le Czar," which +they always played in Moscow whenever the Imperial +cortége arrived.</p> + +<p>At 11 o'clock the Consul's steam launch came (the +café is on the water), and he took us all about the inner +harbour, most curious and interesting, and then outside. +It was a beautiful moonlight night, and we went sometimes +so close up to one of the islands that we could have +spoken to anyone on the shore if there had been anybody +to speak to—sometimes we were in what seemed a +great lake, with no perceptible outlet. We cruised about +until midnight, then went back to the hotel, and walked +down to the steamer. The light had changed—was +rather like dawn, but perfectly light. There were people +and carriages, children, badauds, loitering about the +wharf. They told us a steamer had started two or three +hours earlier with tourists on board to see the midnight +sun.</p> + +<p>We stayed on deck about half an hour to see the départ. +The light was getting much stronger—Richard +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_131" title="pg 131"> </a> +read a letter quite easily, and at 1 o'clock, when I went +down to the cabin, the sun was shining bright. I am +writing now on deck after breakfast. Young Moltke, a +Dane, came on board last night, and asked if he might +have his meals with us. He too had been at the Coronation, +and found the standing all those hours very tiring. +The day is beautiful—the sea perfectly calm, and the +long, lazy hours on deck most resting.</p> + +<p>This morning I was interviewed by two English girls—both +young and rather pretty, the fair English type. +One was a governess going back to her place, somewhere +near Stockholm, in the country; the other was just going +out on a venture, had no engagement, knew no language +but her own, and had merely made the acquaintance of +the other girl on the boat. I suggested it was rather a +risk coming so far without anything definite; but she said +she was sure she would find something, and she had a +little money. I asked her how old she was—17. "How +could your parents let you start off like that?" "Oh, +there are so many of us, and I am strong." They then +asked me if I would tell them something about the +Coronation—so I talked to them a few minutes. They +asked me if I saw many Nihilists—as if they were a +marked class—and did the Empress look nervous.</p> + +<p>I have also managed to talk a little to the stewardess, +or rather to understand her—as I have made out that she +is married, and has young children, and no one apparently +to leave them with while she is cruising about.</p> + +<p>I wish I could sketch, there are so many charming little +bits of scenery that I would like to bring home with +me. We are getting near Abo, and I must stop. To-night +is to be our rough night in the Baltic. At the +present moment the sea is like glass, but the Captain says +there is always movement crossing over to Stockholm. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_132" title="pg 132"> </a> +I should like to go on forever in the boat. The long, +long hours on the deck with this soft grey sea and sky, +with nobody to talk to, and no dressing of any kind are +enchanting. I have got a book, Tolstoy's "Guerre et +Paix," but I don't seem to get on much—I am always +looking at something.</p> + +<p class="author">8 o'clock.</p> + +<p>We have just got back after a lovely afternoon at Abo +(the old capital of Finland). The approach was very +picturesque as we went some distance up a narrow river +to the town, which is not directly on the sea. Our Vice-Consul +was waiting on the quai with a carriage, and we +drove all over the place. It is now a dead city—all the +life and interest of Finland is absorbed by Helsingfors, +but it is interesting. We saw the Cathedral, the public +gardens, and then drove some distance into the country +to see the oldest church in Finland—a little old, grey +building that looks any age. The country is very pretty, +always charming views of the sea, and a few villas dotted +about, but nothing like as many as at Helsingfors. It +seems people come sometimes in summer for sea air, +bathing, and fishing, and occasionally English yachts stop +a day or two.</p> + +<p>We got back about eight, and I am writing now before +supper. We found the boat all dressed with greens, as it +is the St. Jean, and they tell us we shall see lights, bonfires, +and torches on all the little islands, as they always +celebrate the St. Jean here with greens and lights. My +next letter will be from Stockholm.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_133" title="pg 133"> </a></p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Stockholm</span>,<br > +Sunday, June 24th, 1883.</p> + +<p>Well, Dear, we arrived at 12 o'clock this morning, and +I was quite sorry to leave the boat and my nice big cabin, +and the good-natured stewardess. Last night was enchanting. +We sat on deck until 12.30. W. treated us +all to Swedish punch and cakes. It was decidedly cooler—for +the first time I had on the warm, long, blue cloth +coat I started in from Paris, and there was rather more +motion. How it would amuse you—I wish you were +here. The deck looks quite picturesque—lots of little +round tables with groups of three or four people, all +drinking something, and most of them playing cards. +Between 11 and 12 there is a sort of night, or darkness, +so they brought up some lamps, which looked weird, and +gave a faint, flickering light. We run sometimes so +close to the islands, between several, in a narrow channel, +that one would think it was impossible to pass, but evidently +it is deep sea everywhere, and we go steadily on +without slackening. I am delighted we decided to come +by sea. It is again a most novel experience, and such +a contrast to our Moscow stay—all gold and glitter, and +colour and courtiers.</p> + +<p>We were just getting out of the little channels and +islands and making for the open sea when I went downstairs. +The captain came and sat with us a little while, +and told us where we were. Some of the lights on the +small islands looked as if they were rising straight out +of the sea. The water was grey, and the rock grey—one +only saw the light.</p> + +<p>We didn't meet many ships—a few sailing boats as we +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_134" title="pg 134"> </a> +left Abo—but no steamers or big ships. We were up +fairly early, as they told us the entrance to Stockholm +was so beautiful. Coming by water it rises straight out +of the sea like Venice. There were quantities of islands, +but much greener than those of the Finnish coast, and +the cliffs higher. Villas everywhere, close down to the +water's edge, and running up the hills. Little pleasure +boats and yachts skimming all over the harbour. As it +was fête St. Jean all the peasants and country people +were out in flat-bottomed boats, crowded with women +and children down to the water's edge—the boats quite +covered with green boughs and leaves, the women in +costume—a white skirt, coloured bodice embroidered in +gold or silver—silver charms and big pins in their hair. +It really was fairy-like for quite two hours before we +arrived.</p> + +<p>We got in at twelve exactly, and breakfasted on +board. The river is so deep that big ships run straight +up into the town. The American frigate, Lancaster, +which arrived last night, is anchored directly in front of +the hotel, under our windows.</p> + +<p>We took a most cordial leave of our Captain, who +expressed great gratification at having had us on board—hoped +we were satisfied and would recommend his +boat to any of our friends who wanted to make the same +trip. W. and Richard were astounded at the cheapness +of the journey. I think they made out it was about +50 francs apiece—tout compris. We were three nights +on board, and had all our meals except the day at +Helsingfors.</p> + +<p>We found various people waiting for us at the quai—one +of the secretaries of our Legation—the gérant of +the Hôtel de l'Europe—one or two members of the +French colony here, and M. Mathias, a French engineer +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_135" title="pg 135"> </a> +who lives here. We went across to the hotel in a ferry-boat +and found charming rooms, with windows and balconies +on the river. The proprietor informed us with +much pride that the last distinguished foreigner that had +occupied the apartment was Mdme. Sarah Bernhardt.</p> + +<p>We found quantities of letters, unpacked a little—I +wasn't sorry to get out of my blue cloth into something +lighter, as it is warm. They say it is going to rain, and it +has been dull and grey all the morning. M. Patenôtre, +French Minister, has sent word that he will come and see +us about 2.30. The King is here, and will receive W. +The Queen and Princesses are away, so I have nothing +to do. The Royal Palace is opposite—a big square +building.</p> + +<p class="author">7 o'clock.</p> + +<p>Patenôtre and all his Legation appeared. They +brought us some picture papers with the Coronation, +proclamation (the Heralds dressed in cloth of gold, and +preceded by trumpeters) and ball. They say the +Graphic is the best, but they hadn't it, you might perhaps, +June 10th. We went for a drive with M. Mathias, +who will be our cicerone here, as he knows Stockholm +well. We went to the Royal Park, which is handsome—fine +old trees and allées, and to the Observatory, from +which generally there is a beautiful view of Stockholm +and its surroundings—but it was grey and misty, raining +even a little, so we didn't see much.</p> + +<p>We are to dine quietly here and go after dinner to a +camp where soldiers and peasants play games and dance +and sing, in honour of St. Jean.</p> + +<p>The river is still covered with little green boats darting +about in every direction.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_136" title="pg 136"> </a></p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Hôtel D'europe, Stockholm,</span><br > +Monday, June 25th, 1883.</p> + + +<p>My Dear, this is the most enchanting place. The sun +is out this morning, and the river and green hills too +lovely. The river is most animated, quantities of sail +boats and ordinary little rowing boats flying about in all +directions, and plenty of life on the quais. Our expedition +last night was not very successful. M. Mathias +came to dinner early, at 7 (almost everyone dines at 6), +and we went off to the camp. It was a pretty drive all +along the river, and would have been nice if it had been +clear, but it was a cold, grey evening, and began to rain +a little before we got home. We found plenty of people +looking on—various carriages drawn up, and it is evidently +a thing to do—on a fine night people get out +and walk about in the crowd, but as it was misting a +little and decidedly muddy, we merely looked on from +the carriage. One of the military bands played very well, +a sort of quickstep, and the people danced with a certain +entrain, but there were no particular steps, nor +national dances, nothing very different from what one +would see in a French assemblée when the people dance +on the pelouse before the Mairie. When they were all +dancing round a may-pole dressed with greens, it was +pretty, with soldiers and the Dalecarlian women—there +were policemen, but not many, and the people looked +quite peaceable and happy, evidently enjoying themselves +immensely. There were quite a number of children—little +tots that looked as if they could just walk, +joining in the ring. Some of the costumes were pretty. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_137" title="pg 137"> </a> +The Dalecarlian women looked well—they wear a high +black cap which is very effective on their fair hair, which +is plaited in heavy braids, and goes around the head +like a turban; a white bodice, bright coloured apron, and +gold or silver charms and hair-pins. The language +sounded hard—no more the soft Russian tongue—and, +alas! I am afraid no more the long, beautiful Russian +twilight. The sky is grey and the clouds low. They +say we are going to have a spell of rain.</p> + +<p>Mathias says the language is not at all difficult to +learn, and it is absolutely necessary to know it, particularly +for anyone who is here in any sort of business +capacity.</p> + +<p>We got home about 10 and went in to pay a visit to +the Baldwins, who have the rooms next to us. They +had intended going too to the camp, but the rain +frightened them off. We told them they hadn't missed +much. The Admiral is charming—has been everywhere, +seen everything, and takes such a practical American view +of everything. He was not at all impressed with all the +magnificence of Moscow—"All show (not much of a +one) and hollow. What is there underneath?" However, +I said I thought the show was pretty good as far +as it went, and certainly no other country in the world +could offer such a sight; to which he replied, smilingly, +that I had been so long away from America that I had +forgotten what it was like. I stuck to my guns, and said +that certainly not all the intelligence, energy, education, +and money of America could produce such a pageant. +What was so wonderful was the contrast. All the modern +life and luxury grafted upon that old half-Eastern, +half-barbaric world. I think I shall never again see +anything like the dinner of the Emperor and Empress +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_138" title="pg 138"> </a> +the day of the Coronation. It looked exactly like some +old mediæval picture as they sat there in their robes and +crowns in that old dark-vaulted room of the old palace. +We had quite an animated discussion. I fancy he always +takes the opposite side on principle.</p> + +<p>This morning we have been very energetic. Mathias +came at 10 o'clock, and we started off sight-seeing. We +walked across to the Palace, which is directly opposite, +and were there about an hour. There is not much to +see, the rooms are large and high, all very simply furnished. +Those that give on the river are very gay with +all the water life of the city passing under the windows. +There is one large gallery "des glaces" rather like the +famous one at Versailles, which they told us was beautiful +when it was lighted. There are quantities of portraits +everywhere, and these, of course, are interesting; +also some fine china, large vases. We saw, of course, +Bernadotte's room, left exactly as it was when he died +there. It was a curious mixture of French and Swedish, +several French papers and brochures lying about on the +tables just as he had left them, quite yellow with age and +the print fading, also note-books and "projets de loi" annotés +in his handwriting. They say he never knew a +word of Swedish and yet was so popular. There was a +fine portrait of him over the fireplace, a handsome man, +with fine soldierly bearing.</p> + +<p>We found a nice open carriage waiting for us at the +door of the Palace and drove off to Drottningholm, one +of the Royal residences on Lake Malar. The drive was +charming, through pretty green country, and as soon +as we came near the Lake, villas (generally white) in +every direction. We crossed various little arms of the +lake before we arrived at the Château. It is an enormous +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_139" title="pg 139"> </a> +pile, and stands very well in a large park. The +Governor, a fine old soldier (who rather reminded me of +Marshal MacMahon), was waiting for us with his son, +and showed us everything. The rooms are large and +bright and exceedingly simple. It seems the Royal +Family are very fond of the place. There is so much +room that they can have as many people staying as they +like, and they all live on the water. We drove through +the park, and saw the Governor's villa, not far from the +Palace. As we had been going since 10 o'clock the idea +of tea was not disagreeable, so we consulted our coachman +(at least Mathias did, as we couldn't talk), and he +told us there was a good little café in the park, at one +end, far from the Château, where the public were allowed, +so we stopped there and had a very good cup of +tea. It was cool and green, and we rather liked sitting +there with the lake before us in the drowsy quiet of a +summer afternoon. However we had to get back to +Stockholm, as W. had to make a visit to the Ministre +des Affaires Étrangères. He sent him word just as we +were starting that the King would receive him to-morrow +at one o'clock. He must also see if he can borrow +anywhere a Swedish grand cordon. He sent all his decorations +back to Paris with his uniform, quite forgetting +that he might want some on his way home, and they tell +him he must have his, that the King is very particular +about such matters, and wouldn't be at all pleased if he +presented himself without his order. Patenôtre's is no +good, as it isn't the same order.</p> + +<p>We left W. the carriage and walked home, stopping +and looking at all the shop windows. I don't know that +there is much to buy, but we are going on a real shopping +expedition to-morrow morning. Mathias showed +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_140" title="pg 140"> </a> +us some queer old streets and houses and a famous shop +where there were all sorts of fishing outfits. He is very +anxious that we should go on to Norway, see Christiania +and some of the famous fiords. He says the country is +much finer than any part of Sweden, and there is much +more "couleur locale." It is just the season for it. I +should like it extremely, but I am afraid W. won't. He +wants to get home, and must stay three or four days at +Copenhagen, where there is a fine collection of medals.</p> + +<p>Now I am sitting writing at the window, waiting until +it is time to dress for dinner at the Legation. The river +is a perpetual enjoyment, always something going on. +A big boat has just put off from the American man-of-war. +The men look a fine sturdy lot, and come up in +great style with a good, long stroke. They attract much +attention, for as soon as the boat left the ship a little +crowd gathered and watched their progress.</p> + +<p>Here is W., who enjoyed his visit to the minister very +much—found him easy and intelligent, and much interested +in the Coronation. They will send him a plaque +and a ribbon from the jewellers, so he will be quite correct +to-morrow. Adelaïde is much disturbed because I +have neither fine dress nor jewels for the dinner to-night. +It really is not of the slightest consequence, as +I am the only lady (Patenôtre is a bachelor), and we are +going to the gardens afterwards. I shall wear Delannoy's +blue and white striped silk, half long, and take my +hat in my hand, as it must go on for our outing.</p> + +<p class="author">12 o'clock.</p> + +<p>We have just come in from our dinner, which was +pleasant and very good, merely the three, Mathias, +Patenôtre, and one of his secretaries, M. de Bondy. The +house is large, nice, and looks very pretty, as the Minister +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_141" title="pg 141"> </a> +has been both in China and Persia and has brought back +some beautiful things, carpets, tentures, and curios of all +kinds. He evidently didn't find Pekin a very pleasant +or healthy residence, says the cold is something awful. +He likes Stockholm, says the Swedes are pleasant, kindly +people, lead simple lives, and do all they can to make it +pleasant for the Corps Diplomatique. There are few +large fortunes—very little life, and little private entertaining. +The Court gives several balls and dinners every +year.</p> + +<p>About 8.30 we went off to the gardens and restaurant +Haselbach, where all the beau monde of Stockholm assembles +in summer, but the season is over and there +were not many people there—of <em>Society</em>; <em>people</em> there +were, plenty. The gardens are large, well lighted, a very +good band was playing, and everyone walking up and +down the broad allées, or seated at little tables with tea +and punch. We sat there about an hour. Patenôtre +pointed out various notabilities to us, but said he didn't +know many people.</p> + +<p>Now we are discussing routes with maps and books. +We shall start for Copenhagen to-morrow night viâ +Malmo, and must send in the morning to engage our +sleepings. It is a long journey. We leave here at 8.30, +and don't get to Copenhagen until 4.30 the next day.</p> + +<p class="author">Tuesday, June 26th.</p> + +<p>It is lovely again this morning. Richard and I and +Mathias have been wandering about the streets shopping. +There isn't much to buy—Norwegian knives with +carved wooden handles in a leather case, Scandinavian +charms, buckles, and brooches roughly worked, but +rather pretty and curious shapes—furs, too, of course, but +we didn't want any more. I was rather tempted by a +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_142" title="pg 142"> </a> +large white stuffed bear. I thought it would look so well +in the hall in the country; but of course the only reason to +have a bear in the house is when you shot it yourself, and +that was not possible in the streets of Stockholm in the +month of June. The day is divine—sky blue and water +dancing. The whole aspect of the place is much gayer +than anything we saw in Russia. People don't look sad +or preoccupied; there are always +<ins title="Transcriber's note: original text read 'babauds'">badauds</ins> hanging over +the bridges and exchanging jokes or remarks with the +watermen.</p> + +<p>Richard and I breakfasted tête-à-tête, as W. had gone +off for his Royal audience. His plaque and grand cordon +came in time from the jeweller, so he was quite +proper. I shall go and see about the trunks, and as soon +as W. comes back we shall start again for some last sightseeing, +the Museum, churches, etc. We dine at 6 and +start at 8 from the hotel. Richard has decided to wait +a day longer and go and see the Falls of Upsala, which +are quite worth seeing. Mathias will go with him, and +he will join us at Copenhagen Thursday. The Baldwins +have just come in to say good-bye. They, too, are leaving +to-morrow.</p> + +<p>I will finish, as I have a quiet hour before dinner. I +left the gentlemen at the Museum, as I was not very well, +and thought better to rest a little before starting this +evening. W. came in a little after two, having enjoyed +the hour with the King very much. He says he is a +tall, handsome man, very intelligent, and well up in +everything. He received him quite informally in his +cabinet de travail, which he said had also been Bernadotte's. +There was a good picture of him on the walls. +He was much interested in the Coronation, though he +had heard all about it already from his son, but he was +anxious to have W.'s impressions. He said <em>he</em> personally +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_143" title="pg 143"> </a> +had never been very anxious about a Nihilist plot at that +time. He didn't think they would choose that opportunity. +He was much interested in everything French, +literature, politics, theatres, and asked W. if he was +going back to Petersburg as Ambassador. He also +asked him if he had ever been in America, as he believed +he had married an American, and was much surprised to +hear he had never crossed the big pond. He told him +too just what some of the Swedish diplomats told me, +that all his best young men went to America. They got +such high wages, and got on so well, that they were all +leaving Sweden. I remember Sandford telling us years +ago in Paris, that all the workmen on his orange plantations +in Florida were Swedes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus160.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="M. William Waddington" id="illus160" title="M. William Waddington"> </a> + +<p class="center small">M. William Waddington<br > +From a copyright photograph by Russell & Son</p></div> + +<p>W. had just time to get out of his dress clothes, and +send back his order when Mathias appeared, and we went +for a last tournée. First to the Church des Chevaliers, +where all the Swedish Kings are buried, up and down +some old streets where there are curious old houses, and +wound up at the Museum. I only stayed there half an +hour, saw some of the pictures and souvenirs of Charles +IX, and then came home, leaving the others.</p> + +<p>Now we have finished packing, I have on my travelling +dress, and am seated quietly at the window with +my book, Tolstoy's "La Guerre et la Paix," but I don't +make much progress—I am always looking out. A +big steam yacht has just come in—ran straight up the +river alongside of the "Lancaster." About twenty little +boats have immediately started out, going close up to the +yacht, and they have sent off a steam launch, which has +come up to the wharf in about five minutes.</p> + +<p>Patenôtre and his secretary have come to say good-bye, +and to say that all the orders are given for this +evening, and we shall have our sleepings. I wonder +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_144" title="pg 144"> </a> + +if you have seen Pontécoulant. He said he would go +at once to find you. He has been saving up all he heard +about the Americans and their frock coats and grey +trousers (when everyone else was covered with gold embroidery +and orders) for you, and hopes to get a good rise +out of you.</p> + +<p>My next letter will be from Copenhagen—then Hamburg +and home. The gentlemen have come in—found +the Museum very interesting, and we shall dine in a few +minutes, so this must stop and will go off from here by +the evening courier.</p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Copenhagen</span>,<br > +Wednesday, June 27th, 1883.</p> + +<p>We arrived at one o'clock to-day, Dear, not tired at +all, as our journey was easy. We had a capital waggon, +a large sleeping carriage, a bed on each side, and a good +toilette. We started punctually at 8.30, through fairly +pretty country, nothing very picturesque, but a general +impression of verdure. At 10.30 we stopped somewhere, +had tea, and the man came and made the beds. I +slept quite well. We took the steamer at Malmo, breakfasted +on board, and enjoyed the crossing. The sea was +beautiful and there were quantities of boats of all kinds. +There was a thick fog for about half an hour, which was +very uncomfortable, for we knew how many boats there +were all around us, and as soon as our own whistle +stopped, we heard many others unpleasantly near. However +it lifted as we neared Copenhagen.</p> + +<p>The approach is good, but not nearly so fine as Stockholm. +There are no islands and the country all about is +very flat. The quantity of boats of all kinds made it a +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_145" title="pg 145"> </a> +very pretty sight. We found M. de Kergorlay, Chargé +d'Affaires, waiting for us on the quai with a carriage, and +drove at once to the hotel. We wanted a little time to +change, read our letters (we found a quantity, two from +you), which you may imagine I was glad to have. I +am so glad the boy has kept well—I am getting very +homesick for him now that our faces are turned homewards. +M. de Kergorlay said he would come back at +4 and take us a drive. W. too found various letters and +papers. We started again at 4 and had a beautiful drive +to the "Deer Park" for some distance along the sea, with +quantities of villas, casinos, cafés with music all the way. +There were some very pretty carriages, officers riding, +and every description of pleasure boat, big and small, on +the sea. Just as we were leaving the sea and turning +into the forest we met a big break, with the Prince Royal +driving himself and his family. The carriage was full of +children. He recognized of course Kergorlay, then W.—however +they are all in the country. We shall have +no visits nor audiences of any kind. I am rather sorry +not to see the Prince. He was in Paris and dined with +us the Exhibition year, when W. was at the Quai d'Orsay, +and I found him most sympathetic, and very good-looking.</p> + +<p>It was so pretty driving through the deer park. We +had tea in one of the casinos, standing high over the sea, +with a splendid view. We dined quietly at the hotel at +a small table in the dining-room. We saw there General +Appert and his family dining. They had come to Copenhagen +to see their son, who is military attaché here +(Madame Appert is a Dane), also Harry Whitehouse, +who said they were in the country, but not far, and would +certainly come in and see us. I have written a few notes +since dinner, and W. has also sent one to be given early +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_146" title="pg 146"> </a> +to-morrow morning to the Conservateur des Médailles +at the Museum. The hotel is very comfortable, we have +an enormous salon on the front, and good bedrooms. +Adelaïde has fraternised with the Apperts' maid, and is +delighted to have a compatriote to go about with. I +was interrupted, as W. suggested we should go out and +make a little turn in the streets while he smoked a cigar. +The town is much less gay than Stockholm. All the +houses are built of grey stone, and are high and narrow, +rather like New York. There are a good many people +in the streets and in the trams, of which there seem +plenty.</p> + +<p class="author">Thursday, June 28th.</p> + +<p>It is again a beautiful day, and at 10 o'clock W. and +I started. I took Adelaïde, for I knew W. would be +absorbed at once by the medals, and I didn't care to +come home alone. We were received with much empressement +by the Director. As I supposed, the Conservateur +des Médailles carried off W. at once, and a +sub. of some kind was deputed to show me the Historical +Museum, which really is very interesting, costumes +and interior groups of figures of the whole world. They +say it is very exact, but what a work it must have been. +We saw it very well and fairly quickly, as it wasn't a +public day, and the young man only showed us what +was worth seeing. We walked home. It wasn't far, +and he explained the route to us. I really needed the +exercise. The town is decidedly gloomy, even in the +bright sunlight, and might be any Northern town anywhere.</p> + +<p>I breakfasted alone at a small table in the dining-room, +and had the big room almost to myself—two gentlemen +were breakfasting at one end. Almost as soon as I got +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_147" title="pg 147"> </a> +upstairs I had some visits. First Richard appeared, very +pleased with his excursion, said it would have been a +pity not to see the Falls, being so near; then came Col. +Wyckham Hoffman and Whitehouse. Hoffman was +much interested in hearing about the Coronation, as he +was five years secretary in Russia and knew all the +people. He and Mrs. Hoffman are at Elsinore for the +summer and want us very much to come down and dine +and stay over night, but I am afraid we can't. W. wants +all his time here for the coins, and it would take quite a +day to really see the place. Kergorlay came with a carriage +at three, and he and I and Richard started again for +the same drive. It seems all Copenhagen does it every +afternoon. The sea looked enchanting, and I think +there were more boats than yesterday—several big +steamers, English bound they tell us—and such quantities +of pleasure boats. We drove rather further into +the forest, as we had more time. It is really very lovely—had +tea in another casino with the same view of +the sea. We met various private carriages with good +horses, a certain number were breaks full of nurses and +children; and some rather smart-looking officers well +mounted. We didn't meet the Royal break again. It +seems they are all (a big family party) at one of their +châteaux near Copenhagen, and come into town very +often. Kergorlay seems to like Copenhagen—not the +climate, he says it is cold and foggy, there are days when +one never sees the sun. It makes rather a gloomy impression +on me. If I lived here I too would want to +come every day to the Deer Park, which wouldn't be +convenient perhaps for domestic arrangements.</p> + +<p>The streets are curiously banal—I wonder why? Of +course one didn't expect to find the colour and half-Eastern +look of Moscow, nor the gay half "bains-de mer" +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_148" title="pg 148"> </a> +impression of Stockholm, but I am disappointed. +One thinks of Danes as descendants of the Vikings, +heroes, enormous men with long limbs and yellow hair. +Do you remember the poem we were so mad about in +the days of our youth, "Word was brought to the Danish +King that the love of his heart lay dying"? I can see +Mrs. Lawrence sitting at the table, and reading it in her +full rich voice. I don't remember now who wrote it, +but I am sure you will—and Copenhagen looks singularly +unpoetical and modern. We found W. on the balcony +when we got back, with his papers and his cigar, just +tired enough after a long day's work in the Museum to +appreciate a quiet hour. It has been warm all day, and is +still. We felt the difference as soon as we turned into +the streets, and we haven't the river under our windows +as we had at Stockholm, and always a breeze.</p> + +<p class="author">4 o'clock.</p> + +<p>Richard and I are just back from an expedition to +Tivoli—the great garden here. We dined quietly at +home, and I tried to persuade W. to come with us to the +garden, but he declined absolutely, so we left him talking +and smoking with General Appert, and we two started +off in a fiacre. We were rather pleased with ourselves +and the way we got along in a strange place and a strange +tongue. We even made out strawberries and cream—"med" +and something else I forget now. I don't know +which was strawberries and which was cream, but we got +them, and <em>med</em> was evidently one or the other. The +garden is very pretty, very well arranged, with every +variety of entertainment. We sat and listened to the +band (a very good one, military) while we had <em>med</em> and +——, and then went into one or two of the small +theatres and concert halls. All this too was modern, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_149" title="pg 149"> </a> +might have been Paris or London. We saw one or two +of our diplomatic friends disporting themselves at one +of the theatres where there were "poses plastiques" very +well done. I think they were "en garçon"—the pink +flower hats they were alongside of didn't give me a +family impression.</p> + +<p>We rather enjoyed our evening lounging about. A +fortune teller, a rather pretty girl, evidently wished to +tell our fortunes, <em>that</em> we made out by signs and the cards +she had spread out before her, but we didn't think our +knowledge of the Danish tongue was sufficient to understand +all she would tell us of a brilliant future. Richard +is delightful to go about with. He likes to see everything +and know about everything, and certainly succeeds +in some curious way getting all the information he wants. +W. was poring over his notes when we got back. We +told him all our experiences, and then talked a little +about our day to-morrow.</p> + +<p class="author">Friday, June 29th.</p> + +<p>It has been frightfully hot all day. I stayed at home +all the morning. W. and Richard went off early to the +Museum. I had a visit from Kergorlay. He has an interesting +face, is a widower, poor fellow, with four children, +one boy of two and a half. They say he is so +devoted to the children. I told him I should like to see +them, and he will send them—at any rate we shall see +them to-morrow night, as we dine at the Legation. Richard +came back to breakfast. He said it was cool enough +in the Museum, and we started off for the Thorwaldsen +Gallery. Of course some of the statues and has reliefs are +very fine, but they are enormous, almost more than life +size. We went on to the Frauen Kirche to see his statues +of the 12 Apostles which are there. They were strangely +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_150" title="pg 150"> </a> +familiar. We must have seen them reproduced in plaster +at home. Both St. Peter and St. John I knew quite well, +and didn't like them much. While we were loitering +about the church the suisse told us a wedding was just +going to take place, it might perhaps amuse us to see it, +so we stepped into one of the side aisles and saw the +cortége. The bride was the regulation white-veiled figure, +I think she had a <em>green</em> wreath (it may have been +myrtle like the German brides), the man was in uniform. +What was really interesting was the dress of the two +pastors. They wore black coats with white ruffles, just +as they did in Luther's time. That reconciled me a little +to this very uninteresting town.</p> + +<p>It was still very warm, but we did a little shopping, +photographs and one or two trifles. Richard leaves to-night +at 7.30, and we shall dine early with him. He +is to stop a day or two with Mary at Meiningen, pick +up his mother who is there, and bring her back to +France. Mary wanted us to come, and I wish we could +have managed it. It would have been nice to have been +there all together, and they would have enjoyed hearing +all our impressions while they were so absolutely +fresh, particularly Charles, who leads a very quiet life now +ever since his accident at the Quai d'Orsay. It is extraordinary +how the last thing seen remains in one's memory. +Already Moscow and that splendid pageant is fading +a little, and I see Stockholm, and the green islands, +and the dancing river.</p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, June 30th.</p> + +<p>It is still frightfully hot—not a breath of air. I have +made as much of a draught as I can by opening the door +into the passage. It isn't very convenient, as we are just +at the head of the big staircase, but I have put a high-backed +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_151" title="pg 151"> </a> +arm-chair between me and the passers by. It was +really very warm until 11 o'clock last night. We dined +downstairs with Richard, and were very sorry to see +him go. Then we went to Mrs. Baldwin (the Admiral +had gone off for two days) to ask her if she would drive +with us. We made the usual turn, the only variety being +our tea place—we take a new one every time. The +gérant of the hotel explains to the coachman where to +go, and he chooses very well. It was lovely driving, and +so cool on the top of the cliff that we walked about a +little after tea. There is always a long, clear evening, +not like Russia, but still very pleasant and pretty, such a +soft light over everything. The moment we turned away +from the sea back into the town we felt the difference, +but the long drive had cooled us. I have asked for my +breakfast upstairs in the salon. I really can't dress and +sit in that hot room in this weather. W. is at the +Museum, but comes back at 4 with the Director, who +is to show us some of the treasures of the town. I +am getting on very well here with "La Guerre et la +Paix," as I am not distracted all the time as I was at +Stockholm. I think you would like it, the <em>Russian</em> side +of Napoleon's great campaign is so interesting, also the +pictures of the society of Moscow at that time, which +they say is extremely well done.</p> + +<p>W. came in about 4, not very warm, as he says the +rooms of the Museum are cool, with such thick walls, and +while we were waiting for Monsieur Warsoe, the Directeur, +Mr. Vivian, English Minister, paid us a visit. He +is very anxious we should come and see them at Elsinore, +says it is most interesting (all memories of Hamlet). I +should like it extremely, but W. thinks we must get +home. I liked Vivian very much. He talked very easily +about everything—he is going to dine with us at Kergorlay's, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_152" title="pg 152"> </a> +says all the colleagues are most anxious to hear +about the Coronation. M. Warsoe appeared about 4.30 +and we drove at once to Rosenburg, an old château +where there is a fine collection of all sorts of things. +Some of the Danish porcelain was lovely, also some fine +tapestries. They showed us with much pride their +trésor, jewels, and gold and silver services, but really +after Moscow and the quantities of gold, silver, enamel, +crowns, and jewels of all sorts that one had seen the +others made no effect, though of course there were some +handsome stones, rubies. What I did like was the 4 lions +(couchant) of massive silver, which are always put at each +side of the throne whenever there is a great ceremony +at Court. They must look splendid.</p> + +<p>We went again to the Frauen Kirche, as W. had not +seen it, and the second time I liked the Apostles better, +a little better. I think it was too hot, and I was too +tired when I was there before. We drove out to an old +bridge, which was curious, and in some old street where +I had never penetrated. The trams worry me, they are +so frightfully civilized and up-to-date, however they were +crowded, so evidently the Danes are not of my way of +thinking.</p> + +<p>Our dinner at Kergorlay's was very pleasant and +handsome. Adelaïde was again frightfully put out at my +garment, and she is right, it is really a street dress, and +this time there are several women. I don't know why +I didn't keep out <em>one</em> evening dress. It was rather +stupid to send everything back. However, I made my +excuses to the ladies, and said I was "en touriste." They +were all very élégantes, though they were all already +settled in the country, and went off about 10 o'clock by +the last train. Kergorlay's children came in before dinner. +The eldest girl is 10, and the baby two and a half. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_153" title="pg 153"> </a> +It was so pathetic to see them in their white dresses and +black sashes and to think whom the mourning was for. +The dinner was very gay. We had Count and Countess +Toll (he is Russian Minister here, and a brother of Countess +Pahlen), Marochetti (Italian Minister) and his wife (a +Frenchwoman, née Grandval), Vivian (she didn't come, +was in the country and rather exhausted with the great +heat), General and Madame Appert, and two secretaries. +Count Toll was very keen to hear all about Moscow, and +what we thought of the great show (he speaks English +quite well). I told him we were enchanted, and that one +of the great features was Comte Pahlen with his velvet +coat and white staff of office with a big sapphire at the +top. He certainly took no end of trouble, and looked +his part very well. They all seem to like Copenhagen +pretty well, except for the climate, which seems most trying. +Countess Toll was in white with handsome pearls. +I felt rather like a pensionnaire in my simple little dress—foolish, +too; I ought to have known better.</p> + +<p>We got home quite early, so I can still have a little +Tolstoy before I go to bed. Adelaïde instantly inquired +what the other ladies had on and was much put out. +"C'était Madame l'Ambassadrice qui était le plus mal"—"oh! +cela oui, et de beaucoup." I suppose it reflects +upon the femme de chambre when the mistress is not up +to the mark.</p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, July 1st.</p> + +<p>It is still frightfully hot. I did not go out all morning, +though they sent a notice of services at the English +Church. We shall leave to-morrow night for Hamburg. +W. says two days more of medals will give him +all he wants. After breakfast I went to see Mrs. Baldwin, +whom I found gasping, sitting with open doors and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_154" title="pg 154"> </a> +windows; also Madame Appert, who looked quite cool +and comfortable, as did her two daughters, pretty girls; +however, they said they didn't feel cool. When I got +back to our rooms I found several cards, and then Mrs. +Hoffman appeared. She was very nice and friendly, sent +all sorts of messages to you and Anne, and wished Anne +would come and stay with her at Elsinore. She likes +Copenhagen very much, says the people are friendly and +hospitable and invite the diplomats; also that some of +the country places are very fine, quite in the English +style. She made a great appeal to me to come to Elsinore +with her this afternoon, I could come back to-morrow +in plenty of time for the night train, but I +couldn't manage. W. was still at the Museum, and +would have been in a great state of mind if he had come +home and found not me but a note saying I had departed +for Elsinore. While she was still here, young Moltke +appeared, our compagnon de voyage from Helsingfors +to Stockholm. He hopes to be sent to Paris or London. +I told him if it was Paris he must look us up. He is a +very nice young fellow, very good-looking, tall, and fair.</p> + +<p>We have had our usual drive. We dined at 5 and +started out rather earlier. If possible there were more +people than we had ever seen before, as it was Sunday and +fête. All Copenhagen, high and low, were on their way +to the Deer Park. A stream of conveyances of all descriptions, +some peasants' carts with straw at the bottom +filled with women and children, everybody in a good +humour. There were fewer officers riding, and fewer big +boats on the sea, but endless little pleasure yachts. As +we came back it was really a pretty sight, all the cafés, +casinos, etc., brilliantly lighted, all the villas, too, and +people sitting on the verandas, some playing cards, +some at tea tables, some walking about in the gardens, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_155" title="pg 155"> </a> +we could see the light dresses fluttering about in the +shrubberies; animation, laughter, voices, music everywhere. +We stopped as usual for tea at one of the high +casinos—the sea blue and calm at our feet some distance +down, and the whole summer out-door life of Copenhagen +behind in the woods and hills. It was delicious +driving back, and even the streets were pretty to-night, +so many people, and the cool air such a relief after the +terrible heat of the day. We have decided to start at +8.30 to-morrow evening.</p> + +<p>I tried to glean some information from a Danish paper +this afternoon. Col. Hoffman told me that if one knew +English or German one could read Danish quite well, giving +oneself a little trouble, but I can't say that was my +experience. It might have been Hebrew for all I made +out. I suppose I didn't keep at it long enough. It +doesn't sound easy when one hears the language spoken +all about one, rather harsh. I mastered a little Swedish +(to understand it) much more easily.</p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Copenhagen</span>,<br > +Monday, July 2d, 1883.</p> + +<p>The heat is something awful to-day,—I think the +worst day we have had. I was up early, as the salon is +cooler than the bedroom, more doors and windows. W. +is off to his medals until 5, and we leave to-night for +Hamburg. The trunks are made (almost for the last +time), as we shall stay only one night in Hamburg, and +arrive in Paris Thursday morning. I had a nice visit +from Kergorlay. He can't come to the station to see +us off, as he dines with the King in the country, but +will send his chancelier to see about places, luggage, etc. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_156" title="pg 156"> </a> +We talked a great deal about his children. He feels such +a responsibility, and it is hard for a man to have such a +young family to look after. He said their mother was +so devoted to them—it seems hard she couldn't have +been left to them a little longer.</p> + +<p>I breakfasted downstairs, had a little talk with the +Apperts, and then went to the reading-room for a little +while to see if there was any news. The Comte de +Chambord is very ill, dying they say. I wonder if his +death will make any difference now—I suppose not. He +has been only a memory practically all these years, as he +never came to France, and only a few, a very few fidèles +clung to him in his exile. I must say I rather admired +him always. According to his lights (limited I grant), +he was absolutely consistent.</p> + +<p>I had another visit from Col. Hoffman, who came to +see if we were really going to-night. We have a despatch +from Richard saying that we will have much difficulty +in getting into any hotel in Hamburg—the town +is very full. There are races going on, also a scientific +congress of some kind—however, the proprietor of this +hotel says it is all right, they will keep us rooms. W. +came in at 5, having been working steadily since 9.30 this +morning. He took a cordial leave of the various Conservateurs +and Directors, but thinks they were not sorry +to see him go, and take up their quiet life, two or three +hours a day in the cabinet instead of 6 or 7.</p> + +<p>My next letter will be from Hamburg—and after that +I will <em>tell</em> all I have seen and done, which will be much +easier than writing.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_157" title="pg 157"> </a></p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Railway Station, Kiel, 7 <small>A.M.</small>,</span><br > +Tuesday, July 3d.</p> + +<p>We have two hours to wait here, so I will scribble a +line to you, which will help to pass the time. We got +off very early last night. Some of the young men from +the Legation were waiting at the station with a servant +to help us with our baggage. It really was not necessary, +as we have only two trunks, and the porter of the +hotel is most helpful and energetic. It was very warm +even at that hour, and the compartment was stuffy, a +good many passengers. We got to Korsoe about 11. +The boat was directly opposite the station, and we went +on board at once. There was some delay getting the +baggage on board, so we sat quietly on deck and had our +tea, and cooled off. The cabin felt so hot when I went +down to leave my things that I couldn't make up my +mind to install myself, particularly as the crossing (the +Belt) was short, about 5 hours. The Captain said we +should arrive between 4 and 5 at Kiel. We stayed on +deck till nearly one o'clock. It was a lovely night, the +sea quite calm, but a good breeze once outside, which +freshened considerably as we drew away from the land.</p> + +<p>I went down about one, but didn't get much sleep, +and was quite ready to go up on deck when they called +me at 4.30, and said we were approaching Kiel. Almost +all the passengers were on deck. The approach is not +particularly interesting. I heard two gentlemen discussing +us in English. They had seen our trunks all labelled +<em>Waddington, Couronnement</em>, had taken renseignements +from the Captain, who assured them W. was the +French Ambassador. They thought he must be mistaken. +"That man is an Englishman—he is speaking English +now to the lady—I have heard them talking always in +English. They certainly are not French." They hovered +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_158" title="pg 158"> </a> +about us, and then looked rather bewildered, for Adelaïde +came up to ask me something, and then W. and I +finished our talk in French. We speak sometimes +French, sometimes English, it depends upon our milieu.</p> + +<p>The harbour is fine as one gets up to it. How hard for +the Danes to give it up, and how they must hate the +Germans. We got off about 5.30. The city was still +wrapped in sleep. We walked about a little, and it was a +curious sensation to walk about in apparently a dead +town. We had some breakfast at the station, and have +been out again. Then (7 o'clock) the town was quite +lively, workmen moving about. We shall start in about a +quarter of an hour, and have about two hours and a half +to Hamburg. The long wait here has been tiresome, +nearly three hours. The movement on the water and +the quais was amusing, but really until after 7 not a +soul was stirring, at least not in this quarter, and no trains +coming or going.</p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Hamburg</span>,<br > +Tuesday, July 3d, 1883.</p> + +<p>No words can tell, Dear, how uncomfortable we are, +hot and cross. We arrived at 11, after a very hot, dusty +journey. The town is crammed, even at this hotel where +they had kept rooms for us (and such nasty little rooms, +a small salon, giving on the street it is true, so that we +can see all that goes on, and two minute bedrooms on one +side) we can't get our trunks, nor apparently our breakfast. +The hotel people are quite affolés. There are +races (with a German Prince of some kind either presiding +or running horses, I can't make out which), "a horticultural +show, a cattle fair, (and an anniversary of something)."</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_159" title="pg 159"> </a></p> + +<p>We said we would take a carriage this afternoon and +drive about the city, and we might just as well have asked +for a balloon—nothing to be had before 7 o'clock. I +should think every carriage in Hamburg was out—quantities +of all kinds and large omnibuses are passing under +the windows, filled with women in light dresses, and +a generally festive appearance. They hope to give us +one then.</p> + +<p>We have had breakfast—the dining-room large, fairly +cool, and empty (as it was late everyone had breakfasted +and flown). They brought us the Figaro. The Comte de +Chambord is dead, and the Comte de Paris starting for +the funeral. Just as we had got upstairs again the man +of the hotel came and asked if Madame l'Ambassadrice +de France would receive Madame l'Ambassadrice de +France. We were rather puzzled, but said of course we +would receive anyone who came, and in walked M. et +Mdme. de Courcel, and M. de Pina, our Consul here, M. +de Sancy, the military attaché at Berlin. We were delighted +to see them. The Courcels had been paying a +visit to the Duke of Sagan in his splendid place, and, +being not far from Hamburg, had come on to see the +town. They were going to the races with M. de Pina, +and wanted us to come, but we didn't care to (and indeed +I don't know how we should have gone, as they +had a small carriage which just held them, and we had +none). M. de Pina asked us to dine with the Courcels +at 8.30, and that we were very glad to do, as the prospect +of a dinner in the big dining-room, with all the crowd +of hungry people back from the various festivities, was +not alluring. Pina told us as we couldn't get a carriage +we had better take one of the small steamers that ply +about in the inner harbour, and have an hour's sail. He +was sure we would find it pretty and interesting. It +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_160" title="pg 160"> </a> +would certainly be cooler than sitting in that stuffy little +salon.</p> + +<p>There is nothing to see now in the streets, as the whole +population is out of town, and the rumbling of carriages +has ceased for the moment. W. is lying back in an arm-chair, +with a cigar, in his shirt sleeves, groaning with the +heat; and very hot it must be to reduce him to that state. +I have a theory that no Waddington knows what heat +means. No words can describe what I feel. Certainly +fine feathers make fine birds, and I think no one would +recognize the gold embroidered, bejewelled couple that +went in the coupé d'Orsay to the gala dinner at the +Palace.</p> + +<p class="author">11 o'clock.</p> + +<p>We are just in from the Consul's dinner, and as it +is cooler in the salon with the windows open than in my +room, I will finish my letter to-night. We start to-morrow +morning at 9 o'clock for Cologne and Paris. Now +that we are getting so near I am very homesick for the +boy, and for my own house. The constant moving +about and living in hotels for the last fortnight has been +tiring. I have got nothing left either to say to anybody—I +have described the Coronation so many times that it +is almost mechanical now—the words come by themselves—a +steady stream, like the paper that rolls off +the telegrams. I think I should never do for a <em>permanent</em> +Ambassadress if six weeks of functions have exhausted +me physically and mentally. As usual tho' last +impressions are the strongest. I have already forgotten +Moscow a little, and see the journey from Petersburg to +Stockholm more clearly than anything else. I am sorry +now that I didn't write a regular journal. Almost all the +gentlemen did, and it would have been no trouble if I had +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_161" title="pg 161"> </a> +made up my mind to it, and written regularly, but unfortunately +my writing-table at Maison Klein was on the +court, and as soon as I established myself all sorts of +interesting things immediately began to take place under +the window, and the ink was bad and thick, and I got +it all over my fingers, and even up in my hair—I hate so +to write.</p> + +<p>We sat all the afternoon indoors until 6 o'clock, when +a little breeze sprang up, and we walked down a few steps +only to the wharf from which the little steamers sail. +It is about an hour, the tour round the lake, or inner +harbour—quite charming—all the shores covered with +pretty houses and villas, with lawns, and gardens full of +flowers, sloping down to the water's edge. One would +never have dreamed of finding anything so pretty and +so <em>country</em> in this very business-like place. Many of the +villas had nice little jetties and piers that ran out quite +far into the water, and pretty boats and boat-houses. +It seemed incredible to find all this so close to the +hot, crowded hotel where we had been all day. The +boat was quite full—principally business men going back +to dine and sleep at their country houses—all Germans—we +were certainly the only foreigners on the boat. It +rather reminded me of Staten Island at home—the afternoon +boat with all the business men on board, only one +didn't have the broad expanse of the beautiful New +York Bay, but a small land-locked lake.</p> + +<p>The sail and breeze (such as it was) revived us, and +we had time to dress comfortably for our dinner. We +didn't see the great port—divined it only, with the forest +of masts of all sizes.</p> + +<p>Our dinner was very pretty and pleasant. Our host +was some time in Holland, and has some lovely specimens +of blue Delft, and some fine carved furniture. We had +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_162" title="pg 162"> </a> +only M. and Mdme. de Courcel (who arrived very late, +having been caught in the file of carriages coming from +the races), M. de Sancy, the first magistrate of the city, +the Burgomaster, all in black, a plain tight coat, with a +white fraise, very stiff and high around his neck, and a +long gold chain. Also two of the principal merchants +of Hamburg—the Courcels were staying with one of +them, as they could get no rooms anywhere. The house +was almost shut up—all the family out of town, and a +femme de charge to look after them. They said the +rooms were very comfortable, and they took their meals +at a restaurant or with M. de Pina, who is certainly most +hospitable.</p> + +<p>W. was delighted to see Courcel and tell him all about +the Coronation, and his impressions of all the people he +had seen. The Burgomaster, too, was very keen to hear +what we thought about everything. He is a clever old +man, speaking French fairly well. They all evidently +think there is much discontent in Russia, and some day +there will be a great upheaving—de Sancy told me that +Radziwill, Aide-de-Camp to the German Emperor, told +him that our equipages, horses, etc., were so good. We +thought so, but were not perhaps quite impartial. Richard +says we all used to sit up talking after every ceremony, +and say how well we did things.</p> + +<p>After dinner M. de Pina showed us some of his curios, +which are interesting and very well arranged. One of +the two merchants, I quite forget the name, has a beautiful +villa on the Elbe, some little distance from Hamburg, +and wants us very much to come and make them +a visit. I was much tempted—it would be amusing to +see a bit of German business life, and I think W. would +not have minded if the invitation could be accepted at +once—but we would have to remain on here for two +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_163" title="pg 163"> </a> +days, as the gentleman is going somewhere else before +he goes home, and really two days in these horrid little +rooms would be impossible. M. de Pina told us the +villas of some of these merchant princes are beautiful, +with splendid gardens and all the luxe that money can +give. He says they spend much more for their country +houses than for their town establishments.</p> + +<p>We broke up about 10, as everyone was tired. It was +a beautiful moonlight night, so we told our coachman +to take us round by the great port. It was most curious. +The water was black except just where the streak of +moonlight fell on it, and there were thousands of ships of +all kinds from all quarters of the globe—smoke coming +out of the chimneys of some of the big steamers, evidently +preparing for an early start to-morrow morning, +and <em>millions</em> of masts tapering up against the sky. Lights +in every direction, some high, some low, and even at +that hour of the night little boats flying about. One +saw a dark object start off from the wharf—suddenly +stand out well crossing the moonlight streak, and then +disappear—there was a constant sound of oars and row-locks, +and long creaking noises like pulleys, and heavy +things being hoisted on board a ship. They say the +animation, and noise, and dust, and <em>smells</em> are extraordinary +in the daytime—but at night-time all looked extremely +picturesque.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Cologne Gare</span>, 10 o'clock Mercredi soir,<br > +4 Juillet.</p> + +<p>We got off this morning at 9.30 from Hamburg, and +had a long, hot, dusty journey—nothing very pretty to +see. We arrived here about 6.30, found the Consul, Mr. +Brandt, waiting at the station with a carriage. He proposed +a drive—going first to the Cathedral, to see it by +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_164" title="pg 164"> </a> +daylight, and then to dine with him at the station, where +there is a very good restaurant, so we sent all our small +things over to the private room, and started off to the +Cathedral. I was delighted to see it again after so many +years. Do you remember it was the first European +Cathedral we saw after Notre Dame, that first year when +we came down the Rhine. How magnificent it is, outside +and inside—the long, stately vaulted aisles, so high +and so still. There was no one in the church at that +hour, and we had a delightful half hour. We walked all +around the outside, and then went back to the station +to dine—and a very good dinner it was, in the same +room where we breakfasted when we started for Russia, +now nearly two months ago, when all seemed so vague, +and rather a plunge into the unknown. We shall certainly +have souvenirs for all our lives.</p> + +<p>As we were finishing dinner the Chef de Gare came to +say that a "lit-salon" was reserved for us, and he would +have all the "kleines gepack" put into the compartment, +and tell us at the last moment. The train starts at 10.30, +and we get to Paris at 10 to-morrow morning, so we +thought we would go out again and drive about a little, +as we had so long to wait. We had a nice turn in the +moonlight—the Cathedral looked beautiful, and we +crossed the Rhine and drove some little distance on the +other side of the river to have the view of the city. Now +one or two Frenchmen who are here are talking to W. +They have brought us tea, and I am scribbling this to +you.</p> + +<p>It is delightful, Dear, to think that to-morrow at breakfast +I shall be telling you all this, and Baby sitting up in +his high chair, looking at me hard out of his round, blue +eyes. There is <em>one</em> good thing in getting home, I +needn't write any more letters.</p> +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_165" title="pg 165"> </a></p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Paris</span>,<br > +31 <span class="smcap">rue Dumont d'Urville</span>,<br > +July 5th, 1883.</p> + +<p>We got back this morning at 10 o'clock. The journey +was very comfortable—there is nothing like those +French "lits-salons." Our departure from Cologne was +rather amusing. The Chef de Gare summoned us at +the last moment—all the passengers had taken their +places, the doors were shut, officials careering up and +down the platform, and <em>yet</em> the train didn't start. Various +heads were put out of the windows, and one or two +irate gentlemen inquired what they were waiting for, +and why didn't we start. Then we appeared strolling +leisurely down the platform, with a small suite of gentlemen, +officers, etc. The adieux were again a little long, +and really one man was bursting with rage, and not at +all mollified when he heard it was an Ambassador returning +to France after the Coronation; "he supposed Ambassadors +could be as punctual as anybody else, and when +an express started at 10.30, it was 10.30 for everybody."</p> + +<p>We were very pleased to find Hubert and the coupé +waiting for us at the Gare de l'Est, and Baby and +Nounou in the street at the door of the porte cochère.</p> + +<p>Well, the Moscow Coronation is over—I wonder what +the next turn of the wheel will bring us.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_167" title="pg 167"> </a></p> + + + + +<h2>PART II</h2> + +<h2>TEN YEARS IN ENGLAND</h2> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Boulogne-sur-Mer</span>,<br > +August, 1883.</p> + +<p>Here we are after all settled for a month at the sea. I +really needed the change and the sea-air after the fatigues +of Moscow, and I was glad to get out of my own house, +which is still crowded with boxes and huge cases labelled +<em>Waddington Couronnement</em>, which now will not be unpacked, +but go direct to London, as all the Court dresses, +gala liveries, harness, etc., will be needed there.</p> + +<p>We decided just at the last moment to come here, and +consequently couldn't get a house near the big hotels in +the real "quartier des baigneurs," so we have taken one +quite the other end of the town near all the fishing boats. +They are a never-failing attraction. We love to see them +go out, and, above all, come in, when all the women, +bare-legged, and with flat baskets on their backs, go out +to meet them and bring in the fish. W. wanted us to +come here, as he was in London and thought he would +often get over from Saturday to Monday.</p> + +<p>I made my first visit to the Embassy on the 15th of +August (Journée de l'Assomption). W. thought I had +better come over and see the house before arriving in +November to take possession. We started quite cheerfully. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_168" title="pg 168"> </a> +It was warm and bright with a good breeze—a +few white-caps, but nothing out of the way. We saw +the boats dance a little as they came in, but didn't realise +what a gale was blowing until we got on board of +ours. The wind was howling through the rigging, and +the Captain told us he couldn't start, as the wind was +blowing the water off the bar. It increased very much +while we were waiting, and several passengers left the +boat and stayed over in Boulogne until the next day. +However we had promised to go; we are fairly good sailors, +and W. had just two idle days he could give us +in London—so we started. It was certainly the worst +crossing I have ever made. The boat rolled and pitched +terribly, we shipped heavy seas all the time, and arrived +at Folkestone shivering and drenched. All the way to +London we felt little streams of water running down our +backs, and our hats were a curiosity—filled with water +like a bowl. We emptied them on the quay, but the +feathers, of course, were finished. We were met at Victoria +by two swell young secretaries, in evening dress, +with gardenias in their button-holes, who had come to +meet their Ambassadress; and I have wondered since +what impression they had of the limp, damp, exhausted +female they extracted from the reserved saloon carriage. +It was only a few minutes' drive to the Embassy at Albert +Gate, where we were received by a stout porter and +a most distinguished "groom of the chambers," dressed +in black, with a silver chain around his neck. We dined +alone in a fair-sized dining-room, with splendid Gobelin +tapestries on the walls. W. came in about 11, having +had a man's dinner with Gladstone.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus188.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London" id="illus188" title="The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London"> </a> + +<p class="center small">The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London</p></div> + +<p>The next day we went all over the house, which is +neither handsome nor comfortable. It is high and narrow, +like a cage, with no very large rooms, and a general +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_169" title="pg 169"> </a> +appearance of dinginess and accumulated dust. However, +the Minister has promised to paint and clean, and +to do over the small drawing-room entirely, just as I like. +Of course I shall have blue satin—you remember how I +always like blue everywhere, on me and near me. The +situation is delightful, on the Park—just at Albert Gate. +The windows and balconies of the drawing-rooms give +on the drive, and the "Row" is so near that I could +easily recognise horses and riders. The season is practically +over, but I have just seen a pretty group pass; a +lady mounted on a fine chestnut and a child on each side +of her on nice, small fat ponies; close to the little girl, +about eight years old, with her fair hair streaming down +her back from under a blue cap, rides an old groom, evidently +much pleased with his little lady's performance, +and watching her so carefully.</p> + +<p>Our inspection of the house took us all the morning. +The kitchen, offices, servants' hall and rooms are enormous, +and in very bad order. I should think it would +take weeks to get it clean and habitable, and need an +army of servants to keep it so. I am thinking rather +sadly of my little hotel in Paris, so clean and bright, with +not a dark corner anywhere.</p> + +<p>We went out driving in the afternoon, and I had my +first experience as Ambassadress, as the coachman drove +down Constitution Hill—a right of way reserved for +Royalties and the Corps Diplomatique. We went +straight to Mrs. Brown, the famous milliner, in Bond +Street, to get ourselves new hats, as ours were quite impossible +after our very lively passage, and the housemaid +at Albert Gate had a handsome present of two +hats with drooping feathers and a strong smell of sea +and salt. London was of course empty, but a few carriages +were in the park, and it amused us to drive about +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_170" title="pg 170"> </a> +and see all the shops, and the general look of the streets, +so different from Paris.</p> + +<p>We spent our evening quietly at home looking over our +installation with W., horses, carriages, servants, and in +fact the complete organisation of a big London house, +which is so unlike a French one. I shall bring over all +my French servants and add as many English as are +necessary. I don't quite see Hubert, our French coachman, +driving about the London streets, and keeping to +the left. I should think we should have daily discussions +with all the drivers in London; however, we must try. +I wonder if I shall like being an Ambassadress, and I also +wonder how long we shall stay here. My brother-in-law +R. says perhaps two years.</p> + +<p>We got back three days ago—started on a bright summer's +day. The Ambassador and secretaries came down +to the station to see us off, and W. promised to come +over and spend Sunday. We had an ideal crossing—blue +sky, bright sun, and few passengers, and, notwithstanding +our hard experience in the first passage, we are +glad to have been over and made acquaintance with the +personnel of the Embassy, also to have seen the house +and realized a little what I must bring over to give it a +look of home.</p> + +<p>This morning we have the news of the Comte de +Chambord's death, and I am wondering if it will make +any political complication. However, for years past he +has only been a name—a most honourable one certainly—but +one wants more than that to deal with the present +state of France.</p> + +<p>After all W. never came over. Although London was +empty, he had always some business to attend to, and on +Sunday usually went to see some friends in the country. +Last Sunday he spent with Lord Granville at Walmer, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_171" title="pg 171"> </a> +which he said was delightful. The castle so close to the +sea that the big ships passed almost under the windows; +Granville himself a charming host. He knows France +and the French well, having been a great deal in Paris +as a boy when his father was British Ambassador to +Louis Philippe (1830-4); Lord Palmerston was then +British Foreign Secretary.</p> + +<p>We are very busy these days making our "pacquets," +as we leave in three days. I am sorry to go, as I have so +much enjoyed the quiet life with the sisters and the children. +We have seen few people, as we are not in the +fashionable quarter, but we have become most intimate +with all the fishing population. The young women and +girls jibe at us when we go shrimp fishing, on terms of +perfect equality—there are no distinctions in the sea—because +we have not the sleight of hand necessary to jerk +the shining, slippery little fish into the basket from the +net. Some local swell, the Mayor, I think, came to see +me the other day, and was told I was on the beach, so +he came down and was much astonished when they +pointed out to him Madame l'Ambassadrice in a hat and +feathers, diamond ear-rings, very short skirts, and neither +shoes nor stockings, walking up to her knees in the +water with a fishing-net in one hand and a basket in the +other, and followed by her little son and niece similarly +equipped, all quite happy and engrossed with their sport. +We have one or two country visits to make, and then I +must have some time in Paris to dismantle my house +and make my preparations for London.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_172" title="pg 172"> </a></p> + +<h3><em>To J. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Mersham Hatch, Ashford, Kent</span>,<br > +Wednesday, November 28, 1883.</p> + +<p>You will say I am taking up my old habits of writing +to you always from the country, but you cannot imagine +how busy I have been in London since I came +over just 2 weeks ago to-day.</p> + +<p>We came down here Monday afternoon to stay with +W.'s old college friend and cousin, Charles Monk. The +house and park are charming—quantities of large, comfortable +rooms, and capital shooting. The gentlemen +brought down a great many pheasants yesterday. The +party in the house are Lord and Lady Abinger and Miss +Scarlett, Sir George and Lady Chetwode, Mr. Leveson-Gower, +a brother of Lord Granville, with a most polished +courteous manner; a Mr. Price W. Powel, and a young +Wm. Gladstone, nephew of the Premier. Monk has no +wife, and three unmarried daughters; the eldest, Julia, +does the honours very well and simply. I absolutely declined +the 9.30 breakfast and asked to have my tea sent +up to me.</p> + +<p>Yesterday I came down about 12, took a little turn in +the garden until one, and at 1.30 had luncheon. Then +we went for a drive to Eastwood, the Duke of Edinburgh's +place. The house is not so large as this, but +the park is charming, with quantities of deer. We had +tea when we came in—some of the gentlemen appeared +and we dined at 8, all the ladies most gorgeous in satin, +lace, and diamonds, the girls generally in white. After +dinner we talked a little, then some of them played +whist, and the young ladies sang. This morning the +gentlemen have started again shooting, and I shall sit +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_173" title="pg 173"> </a> +in my room quite quietly until 12, which gives me an +hour and a half with the ladies before luncheon.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus194.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Dining room of the French Embassy, London, Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries" id="illus194" title="The Dining room of the French Embassy, London, Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries"> +</a> +<p class="center small"> The Dining room of the French Embassy, London, Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries +</p></div> + +<p class="author">Thursday, 29th.</p> + +<p>W. is off again "running for partridges," whatever that +may mean, and at 3 we go back to London. He has a +big dinner somewhere to-night. Yesterday two ladies +came over to luncheon, and in the afternoon Julia Monk +and I took a drive in the pony carriage to meet the +sportsmen, who had a very busy day. In the evening +we made a little music, Miss Scarlett played very well. I +expect to be very busy all this next week in London. +The workmen will be out of the drawing-rooms, and I +shall get all kinds of little odd tables and chairs and unpack +my own bibelots. The carriages arrive, too, and +we must decide about horses. Two English giants are +engaged as footmen, of equal height, to go on the gala +carriage, and we have our own two Frenchmen, one of +whom is very tall. He and Adelaïde came down here +with us, and Adelaïde is much entertained at the respect +with which she is treated. She looked quite a swell yesterday +with her black silk dress, but she says the other +maids are much more dressy, attired in black velvet and +satin and open dresses. Soon there will be nothing left +for the mistresses.</p> + +<p>I will stop now, as I must be down a little earlier this +morning. I hope you will soon be settled in Washington, +and that the children will have no more scarlet fever +or measles complications.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_174" title="pg 174"> </a></p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy, Albert Gate</span>,<br > +December 1, 1883.</p> + +<p>I am gradually settling down, but everything, hours, +service, habits, servants, is so different that I still feel +rather strange. I quite sympathised with Francis, who +was already unhappy at leaving Paris and his dear "Nounou," +and very much put out with his new German +governess who was deadly ill crossing. His woes culminated +on arriving at Albert Gate, when he was solemnly +conducted upstairs by a very tall footman to his +room (a nice large nursery and bedroom giving on the +Park), and he wept bitterly and refused to eat any dinner +or to have his coat and hat taken off. A great many people +have been to see us, and we shall have some quiet dinners—and +a shooting party at Mr. Monk's one of these +days.</p> + +<p>The shooting party at Mr. Monk's was pleasant. He +has a fine large house and capital shooting. The ladies +walked about a little and followed some battues, and +everyone assembled in the drawing-room for tea. All +the women in full dress and diamonds for dinner.</p> + +<p>Our Harcourt dinner was pleasant. Sir William is +charming—such an easy talker, with no pose of any kind. +It is decided that Lady Harcourt presents me to the +Queen. Lady Granville is away, and it falls upon her +as wife of the Home Secretary. Sir William had been +to Windsor, and had told the Queen of the curious coincidence—the +French Ambassadress, an American, presented +by the wife of the British Home Secretary, also an +American,<sup><a href="#fn8" id="r8">[8]</a></sup> and an amie d'enfance of Mrs. Waddington. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_175" title="pg 175"> </a> +I had some little difficulty in finding out what I was to +wear (as there is little etiquette at the English Court +upon these occasions), but they finally told me ordinary +visiting dress, so I shall wear my blue velvet. We go +down to lunch and see the Queen afterward.</p> + +<p class="author">December 7, 1883.</p> + +<p>I have had my audience to-day, and will write to you +at once while I still remember it all. First I must tell +you about Francis. He heard someone asking me the +other day if I had been yet to see the Queen. I saw his +face change a little, so when we were alone, he said, +tremulously, "Tu vas voir la Reine?" "Oui, mon fils." +"Est-elle toujours si méchante?" "Mais la Reine n'est +pas méchante, mon enfant." "Elle ne vas pas te faire +couper la tête?" Evidently his mind had been running +on the Tower of London, where we went the other day, +and where the block on which Anne Boleyn and Lady +Jane Grey had their heads cut off was of course shown. +When he heard I was going to see the Queen, his heart +failed him, and I had some difficulty in comforting him, +and explaining that sovereigns in these days didn't have +recourse to such extreme measures (at least in civilised +countries. I suppose the Shah of Persia wouldn't hesitate +to dispose of a head that was in his way).</p> + +<p>Lady Harcourt and I started for Paddington at 1 +o'clock, and got to Windsor a little before two. We +found a landau with two servants in plain black liveries +waiting for us, and we drove at once to the Castle. It +was a beautiful bright day, but snow had fallen heavily +in the country, so that the old gray walls and round towers +stood out splendidly as we drove up. We drove +through several courts and finally drew up at an entrance +where there were five servants in the royal red liveries +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_176" title="pg 176"> </a> +with crape on their sleeves (all the Queen's household are +always in mourning), a big Highlander in full dress, and +a butler in black who ushered us into a large drawing-room +with an enormous bow-window looking on the +Park. Instantly there appeared Lady Erroll, lady in +waiting, and four maids of honour. Lady Erroll shook +hands and introduced the maids of honour, who made us +low curtseys. Then came Lord Methuen—Lord in waiting—and +we went at once in to luncheon. Everything +was served on silver plate; there were four footmen and +a butler, but the repast was of the simplest description—an +ordinary English luncheon—roast mutton, fowl, pudding, +apple-tart, etc. After luncheon we talked a little, +and then Sir Henry Ponsonby appeared to give Lady +Harcourt her last instructions. It was the first time +she had presented an Ambassadress in a private +audience. Precisely at three a servant in black appeared +and said, "Will you come to see the Queen?" +Lady Harcourt, Ponsonby, and I proceeded down a +handsome long corridor filled with pictures, vitrines, +of china principally, and old furniture, to a room at +one end where a footman was standing. Sir Henry +opened the door, Lady Harcourt made a low curtsey +at the threshold, saying, "I have the honour to present +the French Ambassadress," and then immediately +backed herself out, and I found myself in the room. +I made a first low curtsey, but before I had time to make +another the Queen, who was standing in the middle of +the room with Princess Beatrice, advanced a step, shook +hands, and said, with a very pretty smile and manner, +"I am very glad to see you." She asked me to sit down, +and talked a great deal, was most gracious, asked me if I +was getting accustomed to the climate and the stairs, +whether I had seen all my "colleagues," and how many +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_177" title="pg 177"> </a> +children I had. When I said one little boy whom I had left +in London, she asked me what he was doing; I thought I +would tell her about his fears for his mother's head, so I +replied he was trembling at home until his mother should +return. She looked a little surprised, but was really +amused, and laughed when I told her his preoccupations; +said, "Poor little boy, how glad he will be to see his +mother back with her head on her shoulders."</p> + +<p>Princess Beatrice took no part in the conversation. +She looked smiling and very intelligent. The Queen +was very simply dressed in black, with her white widow's +cap and veil, no ornaments, but a gold chain and pearls +around her neck, and a medallion with a portrait of a man +in uniform, whom I supposed to be Prince Albert. +I think the interview lasted about fifteen minutes. Then +the Queen arose, shook hands, and said she hoped my +husband and I would like the life in England. Princess +Beatrice shook hands—I backed myself out, and it was +over. I was very much impressed with the Queen's personality. +She is short, stout, and her face rather red, +but there is a great air of dignity and self-possession, and +a beautiful smile which lights up her whole face.</p> + +<p>I never could find out any minor details in dress, as to +taking off veil, gloves, etc., but I did as I had done with +other Royalties and took off veil and gloves, which I hope +was right.</p> + +<p>Lady Harcourt and Ponsonby were waiting for me in +the corridor, and seemed to think my audience had been +longer than usual—were also surprised that the Queen +made me sit down. It seems she sometimes receives +standing all the time, at a first formal presentation.</p> + +<p>As we had some little time before starting for the station, +Ponsonby showed us part of the Castle. The great +halls, St. George's and Waterloo, are very fine, and it was +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_178" title="pg 178"> </a> +interesting to see the great pictures which one has always +seen reproduced in engravings—the Queen's Marriage, +Coronation, Reception of King Louis Philippe, Baptism +of the Prince of Wales, etc. One room was beautiful, +filled with Van Dycks. We went back to the station in +the same carriage, and Lady Harcourt and I talked hard +all the way home. It was certainly a very simple affair; +as little etiquette as possible, but the Castle was fine. +The old gray fortress and its towers and crenellated walls, +the home of the sovereign who lives there with little +pomp and few guards—guarded by her people, in the +same Castle, and the same surroundings as when she began +her long reign, a mere girl. When one thinks of all +the changes she has seen in other countries—kingdoms +and dynasties disappearing—one can realise what a long +wise rule hers has been. It is such a contrast to my last +Royal Audience at Moscow, which now seems a confused +memory of Court officials, uniforms, gold-laced +coats, jewelled canes (I can see one of the Chamberlains +who had an enormous sapphire at the end of his staff), +princes, peasants, Cossacks, costumes of every description, +court carriages, Russian carriages, the famous attelage +of three horses, every language under the sun, +and all jostling and crowding each other in the courts +of the Kremlin—with its wonderful churches and domes +of every possible colour from pink to green—only soldiers, +soldiers everywhere, and the people kept at a distance—very +unlike what I have just seen here.</p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, December 16, 1883.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we have had our audience of the Prince +and Princess of Wales—W. and I together. We got +to Marlborough House a little before 4, and were shown +at once into a room on the ground floor, where we found +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_179" title="pg 179"> </a> +Miss Knollys and a gentleman in waiting. In a few +minutes Sir Dighton Probyn, comptroller of the household, +appeared and took us upstairs to a large, handsome +salon. He opened the door, and we found the Prince +and Princess standing. The room was filled with pretty +things. The Princess was dressed in blue velvet (I too—I +daresay Fromont made both dresses), and looked +charming, no older than when I had seen her in Paris +three or four years ago, and with that same beautiful +slight figure and gracious manner.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus202.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="J J Jusserand Counsellor of the French Embassy, 1883" id="illus202" title="J J Jusserand Counsellor of the French Embassy, 1883"> </a> + +<p class="center small">J J Jusserand Counsellor of the French Embassy, 1883<br > +Recently appointed French Ambassador to the United States<br > +From a photograph by Walery, Paris</p></div> + +<p>While the Prince and W. were talking she asked me +a great deal about Moscow and the Coronation, and +particularly if the Empress was well dressed always, as +she had been rather bothered with the quantity of +dresses, manteaux de cour, etc., that she was obliged to +have. The Prince remembered that I was the granddaughter +of Rufus King, who had been United States +Minister to London under George III. He was very +pleasant, with a charming, courteous manner. The +Princess instantly referred to Francis and his fears for +his mother's head, of which she said the Queen had told +her.</p> + +<p class="author">Friday, 21st.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we had tea with the Duke and Duchess +of Albany. She is a German Princess, and was rather +shy at first, but when the tea came it was easier. The +Duke is very amiable, talks easily. He looks, and is, I +believe, delicate. We have a few dinners before us, and +I am gradually getting to know all my colleagues. +Mohrenheim is Russian Ambassador; Münster German; +and Nigra Italian. Münster is practically an Englishman. +His second wife was Lady Harriet St. Clair, a +sister of Lord Rosslyn. He is evidently English in his +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_180" title="pg 180"> </a> +tastes and habits, rides regularly in the Park, and drives +a coach with four chestnuts that are known all over London. +Mr. Lowell is United States Minister, and is much +liked and appreciated in England. Mrs. Lowell is in +bad health and goes out very little.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +January 5, 1884.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we had our audience from the old +Duchess of Cambridge. We found her in handsome +rooms in St. James's Palace, and one lady in waiting with +her. She was lying on a sofa—she is very old, eighty-four—has +seen and known everyone, and talks easily +both French and English. It really seemed a page of +history to listen to her. She asked us to come back, and +Lady G. told us that when she felt well, visits were a great +pleasure to her, and also that she was always glad to see +any members of the French Embassy.</p> + +<p>We got home to tea—and then I had various skirmishes +with the servants. It really is difficult to make +French and English servants work together. The butler +is an Englishman, and directs all the men of the house. +It is not easy to make the Frenchmen take their orders +from him. They all want to be in direct communication +with me. There are always two together in the hall—one +Frenchman and one Englishman, and the result of +that is that when anything goes wrong, and the bell is +not answered, the Frenchman tells me he was not there, +it was the Englishman's turn; and of course the Englishman +the same—so now I have told Holmes (the butler) +to make me out a regular paper every Monday with the +men's names and their hours of service—Yves et George, +10-12; William and Charles, 12-2—I hope that will work. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_181" title="pg 181"> </a> +As to Hubert he hasn't driven me yet. He goes about +London all day in a brougham, with one of those non-descript +English servants, half French, half English, that +we got from the British Embassy in Paris. I find the +domestic part of the Embassy rather a bore, but I suppose +things will settle down. The housemaids are a +delightful institution, though I was amazed upon inquiring +one day from my own maid as to who was a young +lady with a red velvet dress, and a large hat and feathers, +I had met on the stairs, when she replied, "C'est Alice, +Madame, la seconde fille de chambre." It seems that my +maid remonstrated with her for spending her money on +clothes, to which she replied that all housemaids in big +houses dressed like that, and that she herself would be +ashamed if she dressed as plainly as my maids. The two +thrifty Frenchwomen were scandalised.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus206.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Duchess of Cambridge" id="illus206" title="The Duchess of Cambridge"> </a> + +<p class="center small">The Duchess of Cambridge<br > +From a photograph by Walery London.</p></div> + + + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, +January 9, 1884.</p> + +<p>I paid a visit to-day to the Dowager Lady Stanley of +Alderley. I found her at her tea-table in her drawing-room, +with Mr. Gladstone having his cup of tea with +her, and talking easily and cheerfully about all sorts of +things (never a word of politics); no one would have +imagined that he was to make a great speech that evening +in the House. He really is an extraordinary, many-sided +man. In the course of conversation the talk fell +upon the Roman Catholic religion, and its extension in +many countries, <em>particularly in America</em>. He said, turning +to me, that a great friend of his, an American, Mr. +Hurlbert, certainly the most brilliant talker he had ever +heard, and one of the most intelligent, had told him how +much the Roman Catholic religion was gaining ground +in the Northern States of America. I rather demurred +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_182" title="pg 182"> </a> +to his statement, even though it came from Mr. Hurlbert. +His intelligence and brilliancy are undeniable, but +I should have thought his views were a little fantastic at +times. "I rather agree with you," said Mr. Gladstone; +"but I have recently had letters from my friends Bishop +P. of New York, Bishop A. of Massachusetts, and other +distinguished Churchmen in the United States, who tell +me that the Roman Catholic religion is making certain +progress; their preachers are so clever, and know so well +how to adapt themselves to the liberal views they must +have in America." We then talked some time about +the various Bishops and clergymen he knew in America, +the slight difference between the two Prayer Books, etc. +One would really have thought it was a Church of England +clergyman, who has passed all his life studying +theological questions. A few moments after something +turned his thoughts in another direction, and he was discussing +with Lady Stanley the translation into English +of an Italian sonnet which he thought was badly done. +"Too literal, really not understanding the poetry, and +the beautiful imagination of the writer." It was extraordinary. +I was rather mortified when he asked if I +knew the two Bishops. I didn't, but it is fair to say he +understood when I said how many years I had been away +from America.</p> + +<p>Lady Stanley is a delightful old lady. She has seen +and known everyone worth knowing in Europe for the +last fifty years, and it is most amusing to hear her +down-right way of talking. She was killing over the "Professional +Beauties," a style of modern woman she couldn't +understand. She asked me to come in again and have a +cup of tea with her, and I shall certainly go, as one doesn't +hear such talk every day.</p> + +<p>We dined with Mr. Childers, and there was a big reception +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_183" title="pg 183"> </a> +in the evening, with all the celebrities of the +Liberal party, the Harcourts, Hayters, Lord Northbrook, +Tennyson (son of the poet), and many others, but +of course in a crowd like that one can't talk. I hope I +shall remember the faces. About 11 o'clock we went on +to Lady Stanhope's, where there was a big reception of +the Conservative party. There I found the Lyttons and +some few people I knew, and many more were presented. +They were all talking politics hard; said the Ministry +couldn't last another week, as there is to be a vigorous +attack on them in both Houses on Tuesday. Everyone +says the Lyttons are going to Paris when Lord Lyons +leaves. She will be a charming Ambassadress, and he is +so fond of France and so thoroughly well up in French +literature that they will be delighted to have him in +Paris.</p> + +<p>The political talk was exactly like what I have heard +so often in Paris, only in English instead of in French, +and the men talking more quietly, though they abused +one another well, and with less gesticulating. Also they +don't carry politics into private life as they do with us; +the men of opposite sides lavish abuse upon each other in +the House, but there it ends, and they meet at dinner +and chaff each other, and the wives are perfectly intimate. +In France there is a great gulf between parties, +even moderates, royalists, and republicans, and I was +astounded when I first mixed in political life in France +to see people in society turn their backs upon some perfectly +distinguished, honourable gentleman because he +had not the same opinion as themselves in politics.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_184" title="pg 184"> </a></p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Sandringham</span>,<br > +January 12, 1884.</p> + +<p>We arrived this afternoon at two o'clock, and I am +writing in my room, as we have come up to bed, and the +gentlemen have retired to smoke. We came down at +2½, found a saloon carriage reserved for us, and the +Mohrenheims installed—father, mother, and daughter. +We got to Wolverton at six, one of the Prince's gentlemen +was waiting for us with two or three carriages and +footmen. We had all sent our servants and baggage by +an earlier train, as it had been suggested to us. The +house looked large and handsome as we drove up. The +party was assembled in a great hall, with a long low tea-table +at which the Princess presided. It was easy +enough, and I should think a nice party. The Goschens, +Lady Lonsdale, the Master of Magdalen, Lord Carlingford, +and others. The three young Princesses, Prince +Eddy, and the Prince were all there. We talked some +little time and then the Princess said Miss Knollys would +show us our rooms. I found two large comfortable +English rooms opening into each other, a blazing coal +fire in mine, which I immediately proceeded to demolish +as much as I could. Miss Knollys had told us not to +bring low dresses—merely open bodices.</p> + +<p>We went down to the drawing-room about 8½, and +a little before 9 the Prince and Princess and Prince Albert +Victor (better known as Prince Eddy) came in. +The dinner was handsome and pleasant, footmen in royal +red liveries, men in black in culottes and silk stockings, +and a Highlander in full dress, who stood behind +the Prince's chair, and at the end of the dinner walked +solemnly round the table playing the bagpipes. The +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_185" title="pg 185"> </a> +evening was pleasant. The Prince showed us the new +ballroom just redecorated with Indian stuffs and arms, +and at 11 we went upstairs with the Princess, bidding her +good-night at the top of the stairs, and the men went to +the smoking-room.</p> + +<p class="author">Sunday.</p> + +<p>This morning we went to church, the ladies in an omnibus +with the Princess and her three daughters, and the +gentlemen walked across the Park, the Prince appearing +as the sermon began. It is a pretty English country +church in the grounds. In the afternoon we walked +about the grounds; I was much interested in the large +stables, where there are certainly over fifty horses.</p> + +<p>We had changed our dresses after lunch for walking, +and the Princess looked marvellously young in her short +walking skirt and little toque. One could hardly believe +she was the mother of her big son, twenty-one years +old. After the walk we assembled again in the big hall +for tea, a substantial meal with every variety of muffin, +crumpet, toast, cakes and jam that can be imagined, but +it seemed quite natural to consume unlimited quantities +after our long walk. The Princess and English ladies +were in very dressy tea-gowns, velvet and satin with lace +and embroidery; Madame de Mohrenheim and I in ordinary +tailor costumes. The evening was pleasant; I remarked +the absence of the Highland piper at dinner, and +asked the Prince if he was not going to play. "Oh, no," +he said, "not on Sunday, he certainly wouldn't; I +shouldn't like to ask him to, and if I did I am sure he +wouldn't do it." We all leave to-morrow, the Prince +going with us to London. We have enjoyed our visit +very much, the Princess always charming and lovely +to look at, and the Prince a model host, so courteous +and ready to talk about anything.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_186" title="pg 186"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">Monday.</p> + +<p>We got off this morning at 11 o'clock. There is one +curious custom. The Prince himself weighs everyone, +and the name and weight are written in a book. Some +of the ladies protested, but it was of no use, the Prince insisted. +One young lady weighed more than her father, +and was much mortified.</p> + +<p>I went downstairs to breakfast, which I don't generally +do; I keep to my old habit of a cup of tea in my room. +It was a most informal meal. None of the Royal family +appeared, except Prince Eddy, who was going to hunt, +and his red coat made a nice patch of colour. All the +rest of us sat down anywhere, and the servants brought +the menu. We travelled up with the Prince in his private +car, and had luncheon in the car, served by two tall +footmen, and everything on silver plate and hot. The +Prince himself quite charming, talking a great deal, and +seeing that everyone had enough to eat. I should think +all servants, railway guards, and small functionaries +generally would adore him. He has always a pleasant +word and a smile.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +January 31, 1884.</p> + +<p>We have had two days in the country with the D.s at +their little hunting box at Bicester, one of the great +hunting centres. It was my first experience of an English +hunt and hunt ball, and amused me perfectly. The +house is small, with enormous stables and splendid horses. +His four in hand is well known, one of the best in England, +and the coach and servants so perfectly turned out. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_187" title="pg 187"> </a> +We have two young German secretaries, good-looking +Teutons, and two girls who have just returned from a +four months' excursion in the tropics with the Brasseys +in their beautiful yacht, the "Sunbeam."</p> + +<p>We started on the coach on Tuesday at 10.30, well +wrapped up, as there were occasional showers and violent +gusts of wind, particularly when we stopped at crossroads +to see which way the hunt was going. The meet +was at Middleton Park, Lord Jersey's fine place, and the +park was a pretty sight as we drove up. A good many +people, almost all the men in pink, but not so many women +as I had expected to see. We really followed very well, +as D. knows the ground perfectly and apparently at what +spot the fox was to cross the road, which he did close to +us, followed by the whole hunt, all jumping out of the +field on to the road and back again into the other field, +very good fences, too, but the horses evidently knew just +what they had to do. We drove about till 3 o'clock, and +then went back to Middleton to have luncheon. We +found a most hospitable table, and it was funny to see +the people dropping in at intervals, some of the men in +their red coats, one or two ladies, and two or three children +who had been scampering about on ponies. Evidently +the meal had been going on for some time, and the +supply inexhaustible; we had a very good hot luncheon.</p> + +<p>After lunch Lady Jersey (who is charming, very intelligent, +and interested in everything) showed us the +house. Beautiful pictures and old furniture, a massive +silver table that was the dressing table of Queen Elizabeth. +Of course we hadn't time to really see all the +interesting things in the house, as it was getting late, and +we still had a fair drive before us. Notwithstanding the +good and late luncheon we were very glad to have tea +when we got home. I certainly eat much more here, I +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_188" title="pg 188"> </a> +suppose it is the climate, and then the food is a little +different from what we are accustomed to, and I think +very good.</p> + +<p>The hunt ball was really very pretty, the ballroom +well arranged with foxes' heads, brushes, etc., all the men +in pink. Everyone was "en train," and everybody of all +ages dancing. I should think W. and D. were the only +men in the room who didn't dance. They went home +about 12, but H. and I stayed until 2. We heard afterward +that the Master of Hounds was much depressed all +the evening, as he knew he must take the French Ambassadress +to supper (of course, he didn't know that I +was American born, and could speak English), and the +prospect of a long conversation in French with a woman +he didn't know filled him with dismay. However we +made friends (in English), and I hope he didn't find the +supper hour too tiresome. There are two reasons why +an Englishman hates to speak French; first, a sort of +natural timidity which they all have more or less, and +then a decided objection to doing anything he doesn't +want to do, or which bores him. This country is certainly +a Paradise for men, from the nursery days when +all the women of the household—nurses, maids, and sisters, +are slaves of the boys, to manhood, when equally +all the women do exactly what the men want, and regulate +their lives to suit the men of the family, who have +everything their own way.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +February, 1884.</p> + +<p>I made my début in the official world last night at a +reception at Mr. Gladstone's in Downing Street. There +were four large men's dinners (and receptions afterward) +for the opening of Parliament. Lord Granville and Mr. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_189" title="pg 189"> </a> +Gladstone, Ministerial; Lord Salisbury and Sir Stafford +Northcote, "Her Majesty's Opposition."</p> + +<p>The Gladstone house is small and dark (that is one +of the things that strikes me here—the rooms are so +much less lighted than in Paris), and always the chintz +covers left on the furniture, which makes the rooms look +ordinary. We found a great many people there. The +Duke of Cambridge had been dining and was presented +to us. He looks a fine old English soldier (was in uniform), +was very amiable, and spoke to me in French, +which he speaks very well. Quantities of people were +presented to me, I can't remember half the names. Almost +all the women were in black, half-high and no display +of jewels. Mrs. Gladstone is an old lady, very animated +and civil, she wears a cap, with blue ribbons, rather as I +remember Mother. I was also presented to Countess +Karolyi, Austrian Ambassadress, very handsome, and +charming manner; she speaks English as well as I do. It +seems strange to me to hear so much English spoken, it +is so long since I have been in a purely English salon. +W. brought me up various old friends of Rugby and +Cambridge days; also some of the minor diplomats, as of +course I have not yet seen all my colleagues.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +February, 1884.</p> + +<p>I am rather bewildered by the number of people I see +and the quantity of cards left at the Embassy. I shall +have to ask an English friend of mine to look over my +list and tell me who the people are, and, above all, which +cards I must return personally (or even make a personal +visit) and which can be distributed by the Chancellerie. +I drive about every afternoon for two hours leaving +cards, and as no one has regular reception days here as +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_190" title="pg 190"> </a> +in Paris, I rarely find people. We have had various dinners, +political chiefly, at Mr. Gladstone's, Lord Stanhope's, +Lord Northbrook's, a child's party at Marlborough +House, which was very pretty. Francis made +great friends with the two charming little daughters of +the Duchess of Edinburgh, and sat between them at tea, +the Duchess herself supplying them with cakes and sandwiches.</p> + +<p>Yesterday there was a pleasant dinner at Lord Granville's. +Two tables of 12; one presided over by him and +one by Lady Granville. Her table was covered with red +tulips, and his with yellow—nothing but flowers on the +table. The drawing-rooms are large and handsome, and +he has some splendid pictures. One thing seems curious +to me—all the furniture at this season is covered with +ordinary chintz housses or coverings—and the effect is +strange with all the guests in full dress, diamonds and +orders, servants in powder and breeches. We would +never dream of doing it in Paris. When we have distinguished +people of any kind to dine we make our +salons as pretty as possible, and would want particularly +to uncover our handsome furniture. Here it seems they +consider that the season only begins after Easter.</p> + +<p>Apropos of powder, it was rather an affair to put the +two French footmen in powder, as they of course had +never worn it or seen it. Francis was much excited at +Yves' appearance in blue velvet breeches and powder, +Yves being a young Breton, his own special attendant. +I think the maids powdered him in the laundry. However +Francis came flying downstairs holding the reluctant +Yves by the hand, to my room, saying, "Oh, +Maman, viens voir Yves, il est joli, joli!" with the youth +naturally much abashed at being so complimented in my +presence.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_191" title="pg 191"> </a></p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author">February 29, 1884.</p> + +<p>We are commanded to Windsor this evening to dine +and sleep. It is inconvenient, as we have to put off a dinner +of twenty-one people. The chef is tearing his hair, as +of course all his dinner is ready. When my maid came to +pack the trunks she had rather a flustered look; I thought +it was on account of the Windsor visit. Not at all. It +seems a friend of Juteau's (our chef), who is also a chef in +one of the great houses, heard that we were going to +Windsor, so he wrote him a note telling him that his wife +(my maid) must be well dressed and take a low or open +bodice to Windsor for their dinner. The maid was most +indignant for being supposed not to know what was right, +and answered the note saying, "she had accompanied her +mistress to every court in Europe, and knew quite well +how to dress herself."</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Windsor Castle</span>,<br > +March 1, 1884.</p> + +<p>Our dinner last night went off very well, and was not +so stiff as I had expected. We took the 6 o'clock train +from Paddington, and found the Russian Ambassador, +Baron Mohrenheim, and his wife at the station. At +Windsor two or three carriages and footmen were waiting, +but no equerry as at Sandringham. We were driven +to a side door at the Castle, where two servants in plain +black were waiting, who showed us at once to our rooms. +We had a pretty apartment furnished in yellow satin, with +beautiful pictures, principally portraits; a small salon with +a bedroom on each side, bright fires burning, and a quantity +of candles. They brought us tea, beautifully served +all on silver, with thin bread and butter (no muffins or +toast), and almost at the same moment Sir John Cowell, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_192" title="pg 192"> </a> +Master of the Household, came to pay us a visit. He +told us who the party was, said dinner was at 8.45, that a +page would come and tell us at 8.30, and that we should +assemble in the great corridor. Quite punctually at 8.30 +they notified us, and we proceeded down the long corridor, +W. in black breeches and stockings (no order, as +he hadn't the Légion d'Honneur, and couldn't wear a +foreign order), I in white brocaded velvet and diamonds. +We found the party assembled, the Mohrenheims; Lord +and Lady Kimberley; Nigra, Italian Ambassador; Lady +Churchill (who was in waiting); Lord Kenmare (Lord +Chamberlain), and Lord Dalhousie (Lord in waiting) +and one or two other men. We moved up to a door just +opposite the dining-room, and about 9 the Queen came +with the Duchess of Edinburgh and Princess Beatrice. +She shook hands with me and Madame Mohrenheim; +bowed very graciously to all the others, and passed at +once into the dining-room alone. Mohrenheim followed +with the Duchess of Edinburgh; Nigra with Princess +Beatrice; W. with Madame Mohrenheim; and Kimberley +took me. The table was handsome, covered with +gold and silver plate, quantities of servants in red livery, +plain black, and two Highlanders in costume behind the +Queen's chair.</p> + +<p>The conversation was not very animated. The Queen +herself spoke little, and the English not at all—or so low +that one couldn't understand them—however, my Ambassador +couldn't stand that long, so he began talking +most cheerfully to the Duchess of Edinburgh about Moscow, +Kertch, and antiquities of various kinds, and as the +Duchess is clever and inclined to talk, that corner became +more lively. I can't say as much for our end. I think +most Englishmen are naturally shy, and the presence of +Royalty (the Queen above all) paralyses them.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus220.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Windsor Castle" id="illus220" title="Windsor Castle"> </a> +<p class="center small">Windsor Castle</p></div> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_193" title="pg 193"> </a></p> + +<p>After dinner, which was quickly served, we all went +out as we had come in, and the Queen held a short cercle +in the corridor, in the small space between the two doors. +She stood a few minutes talking to the two Princesses, +while she had her coffee (which was brought for her +alone on a small tray), and then crossed over to Madame +Mohrenheim and talked a little. She sat down almost +immediately, Madame Mohrenheim remaining standing. +She then sent for me, Lord Dalhousie summoning us all +in turn. She was very gracious, saying that she could not +yet stand or walk, which worried her very much—asked +me a great deal about my life in London, did I find everything +very different from Paris, and had I found little +friends and a school for Francis? The conversation was +not easy. She sat on rather a low chair, and I standing +before her had to bend down always. She was dressed in +black, with her usual little cap and veil, opal necklace, +diamonds and orders. While she was talking to the +others the two Princesses moved about and talked to us. +It was pleasant—the whole cercle lasted about an hour. +The Queen and Princesses retired together, all shaking +hands with me and Madame Mohrenheim, and bowing to +the others. We finished the evening in the drawing-room +with the household, staying there about half an +hour, and a little after eleven we broke up. W. has gone +off to smoke—at the extreme end of the Castle, as the +Queen hates smoke and perhaps doesn't know that anyone +dares smoke here—and I am writing with about +twelve tall wax candles on my table.</p> + +<p>It is a bright moonlight night, and the Castle looks +enormous. A great mass of towers, vaulted gateways, +walled courts, and the beautiful grass slopes that look +quite green in the moonlight. The lights at the far end +seem like twinkling tapers. It is certainly a magnificent +Royal residence.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_194" title="pg 194"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, March 1884.</p> + +<p>We got back for lunch, leaving the Castle at 10.30. +We breakfasted with the household at 9.30; no ceremony, +people coming in as they liked, and sitting down +anywhere. We loitered a little in the corridor until it +was time to start, looking at the pictures, portraits, and +the curious cabinets and the bits of old furniture which +are interesting.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +March 14, 1884.</p> + +<p>To-day was our first Drawing-room, and we turned out +in great force, I had three secretaries' wives. We had +out our two carriages. W. and I in the gala carriage +with Count de Florian, Secretary of Embassy, Hubert +driving us, and two English giants behind; then came +the landau with merely one footman on the box, all +in full dress livery, blue breeches, silk stockings, and +powdered wigs. There was a great display of troops, +and a crowd waiting on the pavement outside the door +at the Embassy to see us start. There are no porte-cochères +in London, so you go straight out into the +street to get your carriages, and a carpet is kept in the +hall, which is rolled down the steps every time you go +out. The streets were crowded as we came near Buckingham +Palace.</p> + +<p>We entered the Palace by a side entrance, leaving our +wraps in one of the rooms, and went up the great staircase, +which was a pretty sight. Quantities of plants and +flowers and a long procession of women with handsome +Court dresses, splendid tiaras, and a few men in uniform—of +course women preponderate. We walked through +various rooms all filled with Court functionaries, officers +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_195" title="pg 195"> </a> +in uniform, and finally arrived in the large salon opening +into the Throne-Room where all the Corps Diplomatique +and English people who had the entrée were +assembled. Countess Granville, wife of the Foreign +Secretary, Earl Granville, looked most distinguished, +tall and fair, in black with a handsome tiara. Countess +Karolyi, Austrian Ambassadress, was beautiful in her +Hungarian costume and splendid jewels. The Russians +also most picturesque in their national court dress, red +velvet trains heavily embroidered in gold, white veils +spangled with gold, and the high head-dress (kakoshnik) +in velvet studded with jewels.</p> + +<p>When the doors were opened the Foreign Secretary +and his wife passed first and took up their station close +beside the Princess of Wales, to name the members of +the Corps Diplomatique. Then the Master of Ceremonies +gave his hand to the Doyenne—the Austrian +Ambassadress—her train was spread out by two pages,—and +they entered the Throne-Room, making low bows +or curtseys on the threshold. One makes 3 curtseys; one +on entering the room, one half way and a third as one +gets close to the Princess. We followed quickly, I with +my ladies coming directly behind the Russians. The +Court was small—Princess of Wales, Princess Beatrice, +Prince of Wales and Duke of Cambridge. The Princess, +a charming graceful figure dressed in dark velvet with +coloured embroideries and jewels and orders; Princess +Beatrice in mauve, and the two Princes in uniform of +English Field Marshal. The Princesses shook hands +with us chefesses and bowed to the young ladies—the +Princes the same. There was no sort of trouble about +the train; they are down only for a moment, just as you +pass the Queen or Princess—a chamberlain picks them +up most adroitly, puts them in your arm, and one never +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_196" title="pg 196"> </a> +gives them a thought. As soon as we had passed the +group of Princes we turned into a deep window recess +and stood there until the end. That was most amusing, +as we faced the door and saw everyone come in. It +amused and interested me extremely to see how differently +people passed. Most of the women looked well, +their fresh, fair skins standing the test—and a pretty +severe one it is—of full dress, white feathers and veil at +three in the afternoon of a cold March day. Many had +been dressed since 12, first sitting a long time in their +carriages, and then waiting a long time in the drawing-room +at the Palace, until their turns came. They were +generally timid and nervous when they passed—some +bracing themselves as if they were facing a terrible ordeal, +some racing past very quickly, forgetting to take their +trains in their arms, and pursued down the room by an +impatient chamberlain, and some, especially the débutantes, +making carefully and conscientiously the low +regulation curtsey to each Prince, and trembling with +shyness. When the last person had passed the Court +turned and made us bows and curtseys—the Princess' +half curtsey is charming—and it was over. We all got +away quickly.</p> + +<p>The great hall was an interesting sight, filled with +women and uniforms of every kind, and a band playing +in the great square. We had the usual "Drawing-room +tea" to show our dresses. I wore the blue embroidered +Court dress I had made for Moscow, with blue feathers +and diamond tiara. All the English women wear white +feathers and veils, which naturally does not suit everyone, +particularly if they are not well put on. Some of +the coiffures were almost eccentric, one rather high +feather, and a long one very low running down one's +back. The young men were pleased, as they had many +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_197" title="pg 197"> </a> +compliments for our carriages and liveries. We were the +only Embassy that had out two carriages.</p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +May, 1884.</p> + +<p>We went to the Derby this morning with Lord Cork. +I had never been, and W. not for many years. We went +down by train—(special, with the Prince and racing coterie) +and I enjoyed the day. We were in the Jockey +Club box, and it was a curiosity to see the crowd on the +lawn, packed tight, and every description of person, all +engrossed with the race, and wildly interested in the +horses. There was almost a solemn silence just before +the Derby was run. This time there was a tie, which +is rare, I believe. It was rather amusing driving home +from Victoria, as all the balconies along the road were +decorated, and crowded with people, but I believe the +great fashion of driving down had almost disappeared. +Nearly everyone now goes down by train.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +June 28, 1884.</p> + +<p>This morning H. and I went to the second meet of the +Coaching Club on D.'s coach. It was a pretty sight; a +bright beautiful morning and Hyde Park crowded with +equipages, riders, and pedestrians—quantities of pretty +women all much dressed, principally in white, with hats +trimmed with flowers, and light parasols. The tops of +the coaches looked like flower beds. Everyone engrossed +with the teams, criticising and admiring with +perfect frankness. The fly-drivers were killing, knew +all the horses, and expressed themselves freely on the way +they were handled.</p> + +<p>We drove through the Park, and then on to Richmond +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_198" title="pg 198"> </a> +(not all the coaches), where we breakfasted at the "Star +and Garter." The breakfast was good, and at dessert we +had "Maids of Honour," the famous cakes that one always +gets there. We walked about the Park a little after +breakfast; it was delightful under the big trees, and then +mounted our coach again and went back by Hurlingham +to see a polo match. The road was crowded and driving +very difficult, but D. is a capital whip, and I wasn't in the +least nervous, though sometimes it did seem as if the +bit of road they left us was rather narrow. However D. +drove straight on without slackening—and they do make +way for a coach. I think it is a sort of national pride in +a fine team.</p> + +<p>Hurlingham is very pretty and there were quantities +of people there. We saw very well from the top of the +coach, and I must say the game was beautifully played. +Of course the men all rode perfectly, but the ponies were +so clever, quite as keen as the riders, and seemed to know +all about it. We got back to the Embassy about 8, and +happily had no one to dinner, but sat on the balcony all +the evening, W. smoking, and talking about his conference, +which is not going smoothly. The English are +stiff, and the people at home unreasonable. I can't imagine +how French and English can ever work together—they +are so absolutely unlike.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, July, 1884.</p> + +<p>W. went to Paris this morning and H. and I are left +to our own devices. I dined alone at the Speaker's and +it was pleasant. After dinner we went down to the +terrace and walked and sat about. It was so warm +that we all sat there with bare arms and necks. It was so +pretty; boats passing on the river, all the bridges lighted, +and so cool and dark on the terrace that one could +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_199" title="pg 199"> </a> +hardly recognise the people as they walked up and down. +I went back to the Embassy to get H., and we went to +Devonshire House, where there was a big reception—all +the world there, and the house very handsome, a fine +staircase; Lord Hartington receiving us, as the Duke is +an old man and couldn't stand the fatigue.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus228.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="M and Mme Waddington and Their Son" id="illus228" title="M and Mme Waddington and Their Son"> </a> + +<p class="center small"> M and Mme Waddington and Their Son<br > +From a photograph by Cesar Paris</p></div> + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +February 9, 1885.</p> + +<p>This morning we have the news of the fall of Khartoum +and the murder of Gordon. W. is in the country +trying horses, so I put on my hat and went out into the +Row to hear what was going on. It was crowded with +people talking and gesticulating. The Conservatives +furious, "such a ministry a disgrace to the country," and +a tall man on a handsome chestnut, talking to Admiral +C. most energetically, "I am a moderate man myself, but +I would willingly give a hand to hang Gladstone on this +tree." They are much disgusted—and with reason.</p> + +<p class="author">Monday, February 23, 1885.</p> + +<p>It seems to be my week, Dear Gertrude, so I will at +any rate begin this morning. We are now in full tide +of dinners and routs, which last is the most frightful species +of entertainment that the human mind has ever devised. +They consist of 400 or 500 people packed close +in a house which holds about 150—so warm in the rooms +that you almost stifle—and so cold on the staircase and +halls where the door is always open wide that I always +wonder how I can escape without a fluxion de poitrine. +We had a banquet ourselves last Tuesday, Harcourts +Münsters, Corks, etc., followed by a mild dance, which +was however successful, as Pourtalès, who is a gay little +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_200" title="pg 200"> </a> +fellow, led a spirited cotillon, and there were 22 couples. +I performed 2 quadrilles, which, naturally, is the extent of +my dancing now, unless I take a stray turn with an old +partner.</p> + +<p>Of course the great excitement has been the departure +of the Guards for Egypt, as it takes the husbands, sons, +and brothers of half London away. It does seem such a +useless campaign and sacrifice of human life.</p> + +<p>There was a child's party at Marlborough House on +Friday afternoon which was very successful. Mimi and +I were bidden, or <em>commanded</em>, as the correct phrase is, +at 4 o'clock, so we took ourselves off, he in his white +sailor suit, with blue collar, and I in blue velvet. Both +Prince and Princess were very amiable, and the Duchess +of Edinburgh was very good to Mimi, as she always is, +making him sit by her daughters to see the conjuror, and +at her table for tea. The children had their tea in +the dining-room, with a great many little round tables, +we had ours with the Princess. It is very informal, she +always makes it herself, and everyone sits down. The +Princess Louise was also there, looking very nice, and +such a pretty figure. After the tea the children had a +fine romp, ending with a most animated Sir Roger de +Coverley, in which all the Princes—I mean the 2 younger +ones, Prince Eddy and Prince George—joined, and +all the Aides-de-Camp. We didn't leave till 7—and the +afternoon was rather long, but still I must say I enjoyed +myself.</p> + +<p>Yesterday we had a pleasant dinner at Lady Hayter's—a +Liberal political salon. She has big dinners—receptions +every Saturday. It was pleasant at first, until many +more people came than the house would hold, but that is +what the "Maîtresse de Maison" particularly aims at.</p> + +<p>Everyone here sympathises with Lowell on the death +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_201" title="pg 201"> </a> +of his wife. She was so very peculiar. I wrote him a +little note, as he was always very amiable to me and complimentary +about Father and Grandpa. This evening +we had a dinner at Julia, Lady Tweeddale's, who is +chaperoning her niece, Sir Robert Peel's daughter.</p> + +<p class="author">Tuesday.</p> + +<p>I couldn't finish last evening, so take up my letter +now at 7 o'clock, while I am waiting to dress for +dinner. It is a quiet dinner at the Miss Monks'—two +cousins, maiden ladies—and I shall wear a high dress, +which is much easier to get into. Our dinner last +night was pleasant and swell—Duke and Duchess of +Leeds, Lord and Lady Delawarr, Lord and Lady Claud +Hamilton (she a beauty, with a fine figure; he an +attractive Irishman, son of the Duke of Abercorn) and +others. They danced afterwards, and we stayed till 12 +o'clock. The pose of the fast young married set is not +to dance. There is no one to dance with, the Guards +are gone. The Row was lovely this morning, like a +May day, everybody out. I hope to begin to ride again +next week. I am in treaty for a very handsome chestnut, +if the man will come down a little in his price.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>, +February 25, 1885.</p> + +<p>We have been to-day to the House of Lords to hear +Lord Salisbury speak and the vote of censure passed. +The House was full—the Prince and Duke of Cambridge +there. Lord Salisbury spoke well; very calm, very nasty +for his adversaries, and as he had the beau rôle he was +much applauded. The defence was weak, the orator +feeling evidently that his cause was a bad one, and the +temper of the House against him. I should think Lord +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_202" title="pg 202"> </a> +Salisbury would be a most unpleasant adversary, though +always perfectly courteous in manner.</p> + + +<h3><em>To J. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France à Londres</span>,<br > +Monday, March 9, 1885.</p> + +<p>This is my week again, Dear Jan, and I will begin to-day.</p> + +<p>We are going on in a wildly dissipated manner. Last +week was very full. We went to a very pretty ball given +by the Artillery Company of London to the Prince and +Princess. The Duke of Portland, a young fellow, is +colonel of the regiment, and the thing was very well +done. Both Prince and Princess danced several times. +The supper was very pretty. When it was ready everybody +made a line all down the ballroom, and then +the procession, with the Princess first and the Duke of +Portland, then the Prince with me and various other +Princes and swells, walked down the long room, the band +playing the "British Grenadiers," and all the people bowing +and curtseying. The Royal party supped on a platform +and there were 1,000 people seated at supper at +long narrow tables, everyone looking hard at the Princess.</p> + +<p class="author">Thursday, 12th.</p> + +<p>I never got any further and never have had time since, +but I will begin this morning and finish my letter this +evening. To-day is the first Drawing-room of the season. +As Countess Karolyi doesn't come, I am the +Doyenne, and shall have to go in first, led by Sir Francis +Seymour. Mr. Lowell has asked me to take his +presentation. However there is only Bessie V. R., +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_203" title="pg 203"> </a> +Eugene's daughter, who is pleased at being presented +by an Ambassadress. She will also see the Diplomatic +Corps pass. I wish Jess were here, and so does +Adelaïde, who would be so delighted to dress her. +Last night we had a very pleasant dinner at Lady +Jersey's. Such a handsome woman was there, the young +Duchess of Montrose. After dinner we went to the +Speaker's reception, which was crowded, but rather +amusing—such funny looking people and such dresses.</p> + +<p>I am overrun with artists. There are several French +artists of all kinds here, and I must make them play +once, so I have decided upon next Friday afternoon. It +is my day and I shall invite all the musical and entertaining +people I know, as of course they all wish to be +heard. One girl really does play very well on the violin, +and wants me very much to sing with her accompaniment, +which, naturally, I shan't, and another sings, not +very remarkably, and a third, Marie Dubois, plays really +beautifully—premier prix du Conservatoire. I will write +you all about it when it is over.</p> + +<p class="author">7 o'clock.</p> + +<p>Well, we have performed the Drawing-room—it was +short, not more than an hour and a quarter, and I must +say very few pretty faces or pretty dresses—Bessie V. R. +looked very well, very distinguished. She followed directly +behind me—even in front of my secretaries' wives, +and was the third lady in the room. There were quite a +lot of Princes—Prince and Princess of Wales, Prince +Waldemar of Denmark, Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh, +Duke of Cambridge and Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar. +Mme. de Bylandt, wife of the Dutch Minister, +presented Mme. and Mlle. de Brenen, Dutch ladies, both +mother and daughter handsome and well dressed. The +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_204" title="pg 204"> </a> +Princess looked charming in white and gold. The Duchess +of Edinburgh had a dark green velvet train. We +all came back here to tea and had various visitors to +look at the dresses, including Baron Pawel-Rammingen, +husband of Princess Frederica of Hanover, who also +happened in and was much amused at finding such an +étalage of trains—happily we have nothing this evening. +Next week is the marriage of the Duke of B.'s daughter. +It is to be at Westminster Abbey and very swell, the +Prince and Princess going. There is to be a party +Tuesday night, where all her jewels are to be shown, +which they say are splendid. I am sorry not to go, but +we have a dinner and a dance ourselves. I shall go to +the wedding. She is small and quiet—rather shy. I +don't know whether one of those mysterious changes +will take place which one sees sometimes after marriage—coronets +and trains do a great deal. I must finish, +as I have of course several notes to answer. I hate it +so, when people wait for answers. I suppose I shall +have a fine account of the Inauguration from Gertrude. +I hope the girls have enjoyed it.</p> + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, +March 12, 1885.</p> + +<p>I went yesterday to say good-bye to Lady R. They +are leaving for Bombay, where he is named Governor. +It is for five years; I think I should be unwilling to go +so far, and to such a trying climate, but she seems plucky +enough and will certainly do well.</p> + +<p>Francis and I were driving up Constitution Hill yesterday +just as the Queen arrived, so we had a very good +look at her. She was in an open carriage with Princess +Beatrice and her fiancé, Prince Henry of Battenberg +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_205" title="pg 205"> </a> +(such a handsome man), and the usual escort of Life-Guards. +She recognised me perfectly, and always has a +gracious bow and smile. Just before she came one of our +English friends who was walking about with her daughter +(a young girl who had never seen the Queen) suddenly +spied me (as mine was the only carriage that was +allowed to stand) and asked me if she and her daughter +could get into the carriage with me, as that would be such +a good chance for the girl to see the Queen. I of course +was delighted to have them, as Francis and I were alone, +and the girl saw perfectly. So many English people, except +those who go to Drawing-Rooms, never get a chance +to see the Queen at all.</p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, March.</p> + +<p>We have been to Church this morning at Westminster +Abbey, such a magnificent service. The Dean always +gives us seats, and I love the music, the boys sing very +well, and the hymns are grand as they echo through the +fine old church. In every direction there is some historical +souvenir; tombs, old glass windows, tattered flags, +crests,—all England's past. We walked home through +Green Park, and it is curious to notice the absence +of equipages—so many English people don't take out +their carriages on Sunday (to rest the horses and let the +servants go to church), again such a striking contrast to +Paris, where every kind of conveyance is out on that day. +I think of the little grocer near H. who goes out every +Sunday as soon as it is at all warm with his whole family +and 2 or 3 dogs in his little covered cart. All the +"Société" is out also; at the big concerts, reviews, races, +etc. Sunday is the great Parisian holiday.</p> + +<p>This morning before starting I had my head out of +the window on the other side of the Embassy, looking +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_206" title="pg 206"> </a> +at the Guards pass on their way to the little church just +behind the Embassy in Knightsbridge. They came +down from the barracks at a swinging pace, a fine body +of men, the sergeants with their canes, and several officers. +The band, a very good one, plays all the time (to-day +they marched to the French tune "Le Père Victoire"), +and takes up its station, always playing, at the door of +the church. They play until the last man files in, then +suddenly the music stops, and the band goes in also. It +always interests the French servants immensely, the two +maids had their heads out too, and said to me just now, +"C'est bien beau, Madame, quel dommage que cela ne +se passe pas comme cela chez nous." The service in the +Guards' Chapel at Wellington Barracks is also a fine one, +the chapel filled with soldiers, a mass of red (as one sees +only their tunics), and the singing very good—a little +loud sometimes when it is a favourite hymn and all +join in.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +March 13, 1885.</p> + +<p>We have had our second "Drawing-room" to-day, and +were asked to come in "demi-deuil," as it was the first +time the Queen had received any of the Corps Diplomatique +since the Duke of Albany's death. There are +always more people when the Queen holds the Drawing-room, +as it is the only chance so many of her subjects +ever have of seeing her. She rarely comes to London, +and stays only two or three days. She was dressed with +her little closed diamond crown, the blue ribbon of the +Garter, and many diamonds. I thought the black becoming +generally.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_207" title="pg 207"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">March 16th.</p> + +<p>At our dinner to-day at Lord A.'s Mr. Campbell was +next to me, and told me he was most anxious to be recalled +to the French Ambassador, that he had been his +fag at Rugby, and had never seen him since. Of course +they made acquaintance again after dinner, and plunged +into all sorts of recollections of their school days. The +other men who were smoking with them said the talk was +most interesting and curious, as their careers in after life +had been so very different. At every turn W. finds +someone who had been at Rugby or Cambridge with +him.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author">April 9, 1885.</p> + +<p>This morning it is pouring, so I gave up the Oxford +and Cambridge boat race. W. and Count de Florian +started all with light blue rosettes (Cambridge). W. +was on the umpire boat. Cambridge won easily, which +was of course a great pleasure to him (having rowed +himself so many years ago in the Cambridge crew), +in the evening. He said he was so much cheered when +he got up to speak—young men standing on chairs to +see him—that he had to wait some time before he could +begin. He is certainly the only foreign Ambassador that +ever rowed in the Cambridge eight. He was quite pleased +when he came home, so many old memories of happy +boyish days had been brought back. We talked for +some time after dinner, and recalled all sorts of Cambridge +experiences—once when the Queen came with +Prince Albert to Cambridge the students were all assembled +in the court-yard as her carriage drove up. It +had been raining, and the Queen hesitated a moment in +getting out, as the ground was wet and there was mud. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_208" title="pg 208"> </a> +Instantly W. had his gown off and on the ground, the +others followed his example, and she walked over a carpet +of silk gowns the few steps she had to make. W. said he +had never forgotten her smile as she bowed and thanked +them.</p> + + +<h3><em>To J. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">The Garth, Bicester</span>,<br > +Sunday, April 19, 1885.</p> + +<p>I believe this is my week, Dear Jan. I am staying +here at a queer little hunting box in Oxfordshire with +Hilda Deichmann (née de Bunsen). It is literally an +enormous stable, with a cottage attached, but they have +added a story and wings and it is the most wonderful-looking +place, very low—but comfortable. W. went +off to Paris Sunday, and I came down here last Saturday +with Mimi. He is very fond of the children—a big boy +of 11 and a girl of 7—and has enjoyed himself thoroughly. +We feel awfully cut up at Pontécoulant's death. +He has been such a good friend to us, and so completely +associated with all our political life. It seems incredible +that a strong man should be carried off like that in +4 days from a cold. Henrietta will miss him awfully, as, +now that we are so much away he was always there and +attending to anything she wanted done.</p> + +<p>Of course everyone is talking and speculating about +the Anglo-Russian question. W. thinks the English +must fight, and that they will. I think this government, +with Gladstone at its head, will never make up their minds +to fight seriously or in time, judging from the way the +Soudan campaign has been conducted.</p> + +<p>We have been driving all over the country, which is +charming, flat, but all grass (Oxfordshire is a regular +hunting country), and since three days the weather has +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_209" title="pg 209"> </a> +been enchanting. Yesterday we made a lovely excursion +to Blenheim on Deichmann's coach. We picked +up 2 neighbours, nice, pretty English girls, and had a +beautiful drive over the downs. Mimi had never been on +a coach before, and was in a wild state of delight when +all four horses galloped up the hills, and they blew the +horns at all the railway stations and passing thro' the +villages. I had forgotten how magnificent Blenheim was. +The house is rather dismantled, as the present Duke has +sold all the books and some of the handsomest pictures, +but there are plenty left—Van Dycks, Rubens, etc., and +the rooms and halls are splendid. There were lots of +portraits of the Dukes and Duchesses, from the great +Duke down, some curiously like the present Churchills, +particularly the women. When we had finished +sauntering through the house, we drove about the park +looking for a shady place to lunch, and then established +ourselves; the horses were taken out, the lunch basket +opened, and we had a very good lunch on the top of the +coach. We drove back through Woodstock and +stopped for tea at Dashwood Park, one of the great +places of the country. They gave us tea, with every +variety of toast, cake, and bread that can be imagined, +in a beautiful room as large as a church, opening +on a stone terrace, and the most lovely (English) +views of grass meadows and trees, stretching miles +away. There were quantities of family portraits there, +too, but we hadn't time to see them. We got home at +7 o'clock, rather exhausted, but having had a lovely +day.</p> + +<p>I began my letter this morning before breakfast and +will finish it now. The children are off to the woods with +the German tutor after primroses, but it is too warm +for us—so we shall take a walk after tea. I am very +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_210" title="pg 210"> </a> +fond of Hilda Deichmann. She is very clever—knows +a great many things—draws well, paints well, is a good +musician, and is womanly and practical. We fraternised +from the first moment. We are going back to London +to-morrow afternoon. Mimi's school begins on Tuesday, +and I think he has had a good outing for the present. +I haven't an idea what we shall do this winter. +Perhaps when W. comes back he will have some plans. +With this new Ministry, it is difficult to make any. I +am so afraid of their proposing some beastly measure, +like the exile of the Orléans Princes, or something of +that kind to be popular before the election. The Wales' +visit to Ireland seems to be progressing most delightfully +and much more quietly than people thought. He has +such wonderful charm of manner. I should think personal +contact with him would always work wonders. I +must stop now or my letter will not go this afternoon.</p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author">May 6, 1885.</p> + +<p>We had yesterday a typical London <em>Season</em> evening. +We dined at Lady Vivian's—a large, handsome dinner, +everybody rather in a hurry to get away, as there were +two big parties; Lady Derby's in St. James's Place, and +Lady Salisbury's in Arlington Street. We drove down +Piccadilly with much difficulty, getting along very slowly +in spite of our "white card," but finally did arrive at Lady +Derby's. The staircase was a mass of people struggling +to get in, an orchestra playing, and about 1,200 people +in rooms that would hold comfortably about half. Of +course on such occasions one doesn't talk. We spoke +to our host and hostess, were carried on by the crowd, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_211" title="pg 211"> </a> +made the tour of the rooms and got down again with +much waiting and jostling, as there were two currents +coming and going. However, we did finally get our carriage, +and then with many stops and very slowly, got to +Arlington Street, where apparently the same people were +struggling on the staircase, the same orchestra playing, +and just as big a crowd (I should think the whole Conservative +party), for though the house is larger they had +invited more people, so the result was practically the +same. We did exactly the same thing, exchanged a few +words with Lady Salisbury, made the tour, and came +home. We were two hours performing these two receptions, +but I suppose it was right to do it once. However, +the English certainly enjoy the sight, and don't +mind the waiting. Lady Jersey, who is a grandmother, +told me this afternoon she had bored herself to death +last night. "Why did you go?" I said, "you must know +these big political parties by heart." "Oh, I like the +parties," she said; "only I didn't get to either," and then +she explained her evening. She started alone in her carriage +at 10 o'clock for Lady Derby's, was kept waiting +an interminable time in Piccadilly, and when she finally +did reach Lady Derby's door, a friendly link-man advised +her not to go in as everybody was coming away, +and she would never get up the stairs, so she turned back +and proceeded to Arlington Street. She had the same +crowd, the same long wait, and when she arrived at Lady +Salisbury's the party was over, and no one could possibly +get in. It was then midnight, and she drove home, having +passed her whole evening since 10 o'clock alone in +her brougham in Piccadilly.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus242.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Salon of the French Embassy in London, 1891" id="illus242" title="The Salon of the French Embassy in London, 1891"> </a> + +<p class="center small">The Salon of the French Embassy in London, 1891</p></div> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_212" title="pg 212"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">May 9, 1885.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we have had a conférence "sur Racine" +in the big drawing-room. A good many people came +and apparently listened, and I hope it may do the young +lady good. Mlle. de B. wishes to get up classes of +French literature for ladies, but I hardly think it will +succeed here in the season; on a bright day no one will +shut herself up in a smallish room to hear about Racine, +Molière, etc. I was amused by one of our colleagues +whom I invited. He refused promptly, "he really +couldn't do that even for me. He hadn't thought about +Racine since he left school, and hadn't felt it a blank in +his life." Mlle. de B. did it very well; she sat on a little +platform with a table in front of her, and all the swells in +red and gilt arm-chairs facing her, and looking at her +hard. She was a little nervous at first, but soon got over +that, and her language was good and well chosen, she +knew her subject perfectly, and spoke in a pretty clear +voice. This was the invitation:—</p> + + +<h2>MADAME WADDINGTON</h2> + +<h3>SERA CHEZ ELLE</h3> + +<h4>le Samedi, 9 Mai, 2 à 4 heures,</h4> + +<p class="center"><em>Mlle. de Bury lira une étude de critique littéraire sur Racine, son +milieu, et sa tragédie de Bérénice.</em></p> + + +<p>Do you think it would have tempted you? I am afraid +Schuyler wouldn't have come.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_213" title="pg 213"> </a></p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +May, 1885.</p> + +<p>We are having most beautiful weather, Dear, and our +morning rides are delightful. If only the Park was a +little bigger. We always get a good gallop on the other +side by the Marble Arch, but it is small, and one goes +round and round. When I ride with W. we generally +make three or four turns as fast as we can go, he hates +to dawdle. When I ride with the military attaché, or +some other friends, we do the Row, and amble up and +down, talking to the people walking as well as the riders. +The children always delight in scampering along on their +ponies, and they certainly begin young. A friend of +ours, who has a nice sturdy boy of about six, was wondering +whether he should begin with his child on a narrow +pony, thinking he was still rather young, so he consulted +Lady P., a beautiful rider, and an authority on all +matters connected with riding. "You mustn't begin too +early with boys," she said; "one must be careful; I never +put any boy of mine on a horse until he was two years +old."</p> + +<p class="author">May 13th.</p> + +<p>To-day we have had a very long Drawing-room held +by the Queen, which of course attracts everyone. She +rarely stays more than an hour, just long enough to receive +the Corps Diplomatique and the people who have +the entrée. The Queen looked very well, merely shook +hands with me, but talked some little time to W., said +she had enjoyed her stay at Aix-les-Bains so much, and +that everything had been done to make her comfortable. +I watched her while she was talking and I never saw +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_214" title="pg 214"> </a> +a smile make such a difference in a face. Hers is quite +beautiful and lights up her whole face. It was tiring +to-day—unending. Lord R. told me there were 400 +presentations, and at the end said about 1,200 people +had passed. They say the Queen is sometimes made sick +by the quantity of people curtseying before her—the +constant movement of the people bending down and rising +has the same effect upon her as the waters of the +sea. I can understand it.</p> + +<p>The long Drawing-room to-day was a god-send to +Lady A.,—one of Lord C.'s daughters. She is a "débutante," +had a very pretty new dress, and was much excited +over her presentation, had started very early with +her mother so as to see the Queen (who stays only a +short hour). The early start and the long waiting in the +row of carriages and also the ante-room, exhausted her +absolutely. She was sick and faint; they did all they +could, brought her brandy, put her near an open window—nothing +did any good. She had to retire from the +room, go downstairs, have her dress cut open (there was +a knot in the lace and they couldn't unlace her bodice), +and remained extended on a sofa in the hall—train, veil, +feathers, all in a heap. After a rest of two hours, and a +cup of tea (procured with great difficulty, as there is no +buffet on these occasions) she felt better, and her mother +hearing from a friend upstairs, who was "de service," that +the Drawing-room was still going on, was most anxious +that the girl should pass, so they arranged her veil, hair, +and feathers as well as they could, tied the bodice of her +dress, and filled in the intervals with some bits of tulle +cut from her veil. She passed, and I don't believe anyone +noticed anything wrong with her dress, and she was +so thankful not to have to go through that long waiting +again. It is a most fatiguing day for those who haven't +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_215" title="pg 215"> </a> +the entrée, as they must sit so long in their carriages in +the file.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Hatfield</span>, May 30th.</p> + +<p>We came down yesterday to this most beautiful old +place. A large Elizabethan castle, standing rather high, +with courts and terraces in every direction. We found +Lady Salisbury at her tea-table on the terrace with a +lovely view of park and woods on all sides. Various +members of the family and house-party sauntered up, +some of the young ladies in their habits, having been +riding; and some guests having walked up from the +station, which is quite near at the end of the Park. +After an hour's talk Lady Salisbury took me to my +room (miles away through the long hall and up a +great staircase), and told me dinner was "easy 8." +The room is large, all panelled in oak which has become +almost black with age, an enormous bed (they +have always had their sheets made especially for these +beds for more than 200 years, in Germany I think, as no +ordinary sheets could cover more than half). The beds +are very long and almost square. They would easily +hold Brigham Young and all his wives. Do you remember +the picture in Mark Twain? Mine was so high I had +to take a footstool to clamber into it. W.'s room, next, +about the same. We went downstairs at 8.10 and certainly +didn't dine until after 8½. We were about 30 in +the great dining-room, a splendid hall with portraits of +Queen Elizabeth (one in fancy dress, most curious with +bright red hair), Henry VIII, Mary Queen of Scots, etc. +We played cards in the evening and broke up rather +early. This morning Lady Salisbury showed me the +house—most interesting, full of treasures and memories, +a great library with all sorts of letters from the time of +Elizabeth, and in the drawing-room a vitrine filled with +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_216" title="pg 216"> </a> +relics of the "Virgin Queen." It was curious to see her +gloves, shoes, hat. I think Lady Salisbury was somewhat +surprised at my interest in these last things, but +I told her she must make allowances for the American, +who was not accustomed to old family traditions and +souvenirs of that kind. When I think of our Revolution, +then it seems ages ago to me. We enjoyed our visit +extremely, they are all so nice and simple.</p> + +<p>We got back to London this morning and of course +dined out somewhere. I was amused by one of the ladies +saying to me after dinner, "Did you really enjoy your +visit to Hatfield? Aren't they all <em>dreadfully</em> clever?" I +don't think I should have applied the same adverb, but +clever they certainly are. Lord Salisbury has such a +fine, thoughtful face.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author">June, 1885.</p> + +<p>We went to Ascot this morning, a beautiful day, and +the lawn like a flower garden with all the women in their +light dresses dotted about. We lunched with the Prince +and Princess of Wales. The Maharajah of Johore was +there, and had brought down his own cook, attired in +yellow satin with a large flat hat on his head. He made +a sort of curry for his master, which everybody tasted—except +me—I don't like culinary experiments, and I +think the yellow satin garments didn't inspire me with +confidence. I told Juteau when he came up for orders +just now how far below the mark he was as to costume.</p> + +<p class="author">June 29th.</p> + +<p>I went this afternoon with Francis to Lord Aberdeen's, +where they had a hay-making party. They have a pretty +little cottage, or rather a small farm about an hour's +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_217" title="pg 217"> </a> +drive from London. There were plenty of people, and +all sorts of amusements for the children; Punch and +Judy, lawn-tennis, and two tea-tables on the lawn. +After tea they all rushed down a steep hill to a field +where there were quantities of little heaps of hay, and +harmless wooden pitchforks. They had a fine time rolling +and tumbling about in the hay and making hay-stacks. +Then a cow appeared on the scene, dressed +with flowers and ribbons, and the maids made syllabub +on the spot, which the children enjoyed immensely.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus250.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Lady Salisbury" id="illus250" title="Lady Salisbury"> </a> + +<p class="center small">Lady Salisbury</p></div> + +<p class="author">June 30th, 1885.</p> + +<p>We dined at Lady Molesworth's with the Duc d'Aumale, +who is always charming, and makes everything +easy, as there are always bothering little questions of +official etiquette with non-reigning Princes. He is a +fine type of the soldier-prince. It seems hard that a man +of his intelligence and education shouldn't play a great +part in his own country.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +July, 1885.</p> + +<p>We had the Court concert this evening. The Duc +d'Aumale was there, looking so well and so royal. He +is always charming to us, and we were very proud of our +French Prince. H. came with us and enjoyed herself +extremely. The entrance of the Court amused her very +much, the two tall Chamberlains with their wands walking +backwards. She says she never saw anything so +pretty as the curtsey the Princess of Wales made to the +assembled company as soon as she got into the room. +What always appeals in some sort of way to our <em>irreverent</em> +American minds is the singing of the "God Save the +Queen," all the company, including Prince and Princess, +rising and standing.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_218" title="pg 218"> </a></p> + + +<h3><em>To J. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Chevening, Sevenoaks</span>,<br > +Sunday, July 27, 1885.</p> + +<p>I will begin my letter here to-day, Dear Jan, from the +Stanhopes' place, where we came last evening to spend +Sunday. It was awfully hot yesterday. I almost died +on the way from London down, fortunately it was only +an hour. We are a party of 14—Lord and Lady John +Manners, Lord Derby and his step-daughter, Lady Margaret +Cecil, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Stanhope, Mr. and +Mrs. Jeune, Lord Boston, a nice young fellow, and a Mr. +Praed, a riding man, who has travelled everywhere. We +had tea on the terrace overlooking a lovely garden and +lake, and dined at 8. After dinner we sat on the terrace, +and it was charming, a beautiful full moon, and not a +breath of air. Friday we had the closing festivity of the +season at Marlborough House. A beautiful ball it +was, about 600 people, all the crème de la société +and beautiful dresses and jewels. I wore my pink +and green Moscow dress (my Russian garments have +done me good service this year), and it was much +admired. All the Battenberg family were there in +great force, and I renewed acquaintance with the +Prince of Bulgaria, whom I used to know. They +had covered in a great part of the garden, and the room +was beautifully arranged with the Prince's Indian carpets +and arms. The supper room, also built out in the garden, +was so pretty—a collection of small round tables for +8 or 10 persons, with flowers and handsome silver. +Prince Albert Victor took me in, and I had a young +Battenberg next. Neither Phelps nor Harry White was +there, on account of Grant's death, which I thought +very nice of them. I danced once or twice after supper, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_219" title="pg 219"> </a> +and we came away at 2. I hear they kept it up until 5, +having begun at 11. There is a reception at Lady Salisbury's +on Tuesday, which will be really the end of all +things, and purely political, as all the swells go off to +Goodwood Monday.</p> + +<p class="author">11.30.</p> + +<p>We have just come upstairs after a very hot day. I +didn't go to church, as I knew I could not stand the heat, +and talked a little and read very happily in the big drawing-room +till luncheon. Lady Stanhope took me over +the house, which is not very large, but interesting. There +is a charming library full of books and manuscripts and +letters, some from Lord Chesterfield to his son, written +in French, and beginning "Mon cher ami, comment vont +les grâces et les manières." After luncheon, we sat +out under the lime trees, and after tea I made a little +tournée with Lord Stanhope and prowled about the park, +and went also to the church, where there are several +interesting monuments. This evening we have been +sitting again on the terrace, quite delicious. I in my +white dress, with nothing on my shoulders.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +Tuesday, 28th.</p> + +<p>We got back yesterday at 2 o'clock and the weather +has changed to-day. It was very hot all day yesterday. +I spent the afternoon on my sofa until 6.30, when +we went for a ride and met the few last people who +are still here. Last night we discussed our summer +plans, and I shall go over to France on Saturday +with Francis, stay three or four days in Paris, and +then go down to St. Léger. It is curious how London +is suddenly empty. There were not 5 carriages in the +park yesterday. This morning I have been careering +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_220" title="pg 220"> </a> +about the stable-yard trying a new habit. They are so +difficult to make in these days, so tight that the least +change of saddle makes them go every way but the right +one. I don't know if I wrote after the Harwoods +lunched with us. W. was much pleased with them and +found them a most attractive family. The girls are +charming, so pretty and simple. I must stop, as Holmes +(the English butler) is waiting for me to tell him all +sorts of final arrangements before we start.</p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +November 9, 1885.</p> + +<p>The young King of Spain is dead. The Ambassador, +M. de Casa La Iglesia, was to have dined with us. He +sent a note at 5.30 saying that he must give up the +pleasure of dining with us for a "bien pénible raison," but +without saying what it was—so one of the secretaries +went off "aux informations" and came back with the +news that the King was dead. Poor young fellow, his +reign was short.</p> + +<p class="author">December 5th.</p> + +<p>We had a service at the Spanish chapel in Manchester +Square for the King of Spain. All the Diplomats and +official world there. It was very long—all the ladies +were in black—Comtesse Karolyi (Austrian Ambassadress) +and Comtesse de Bylandt (wife of the Dutch Minister) +in crêpe, long veils. They told me I was not at +all correct, that a crêpe veil was "de rigueur" for +crowned heads. I thought I was all right in black +velvet, a tulle veil, and black gloves (in fact was rather +pleased with my get-up), but the ladies were very stern.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_221" title="pg 221"> </a></p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +December 15, 1885.</p> + +<p>I wish you were here this morning, Dear, as the Embassy +is a curiosity—might just as well be in Kamtchatka +as far as the outside world is concerned—for +nothing exists beyond the walls of the house. When +they drew back my curtains this morning I couldn't really +think for a moment where I was. Adelaïde had a lighted +candle in her hand (it was 8.30 o'clock in the morning) +and I thought my window panes had been painted a dirty +yellow in the night. However it was only a yellow London +fog; I could literally see nothing when I went to the +window. It has lightened now a little, but we have had +lamps for breakfast, and I am writing with my candles! +The big shops opposite are all lighted, and one sees little +glimmers of light through the fog. I can't see across +the street. The fog gets into everything—was quite +thick and perceptible in the hall when we went down to +breakfast. The coachman has been in and said he +couldn't take out his horses, not even with a link-boy +running alongside, so let us hope it will brighten up a +little in the course of the afternoon.</p> + +<p class="author">December 16th.</p> + +<p>The fog did lift about 4; but the day was trying and +the traces most evident the next day, as everything in +the house was filthy—all the silver candlesticks and little +silver ornaments that are on the tables; the white curtains—in +fact everything one touched. I should think +laundresses would make their fortune in London. My +maid came to my room about 3 o'clock, just as I was +going out, with her apron really black with smuts. I +said, "What in the world have you been doing, cleaning +the chimneys?" "Non, Madame, je n'ai fait que travailler +chez Madame et dans la lingerie; j'ai voulu montrer mon +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_222" title="pg 222"> </a> +tablier à Madame, c'est le troisième que je mets depuis +ce matin...!"</p> + +<p class="author">December 17, 1885.</p> + +<p>Yesterday I made an excursion to the city with Hilda +Deichmann and her husband to buy things for our Christmas +trees. It was most amusing ransacking in all the +big wholesale houses, and reminded me of my childish +days and similar expeditions to Maiden Lane. There +is so much always in England that recalls early days. I +think it is not only the language, but the education +and way of living are the same. We have read the same +books and sung the same hymns, and understand things +in the same way. Our shopping was most successful. +All the prettiest things come from the German shops. +The ginger-bread animals were wonderful,—some horses +and dogs with gilt tails and ears most effective. The +decorations were really very pretty—the stars and angels +quite charming. When we had finished our shopping +Deichmann took us to Pym's, a celebrated oyster cellar, +to lunch. A funny little place well known to all City +people. We had a capital lunch—all oysters.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we have been playing, 8 hands, two +pianos, which was interesting. Two of our colleagues, +Princess Ghika, Roumanian Legation, and Countess de +Bylandt, Dutch, are excellent musicians. They lead, and +Hilda and I follow as well as we can. I am the least +good, but I manage to get along, and of course whenever +I know the music my ear helps me. We have two +fine Érard grand pianos in the drawing-room, which is +large, and fairly light for London. I was much tempted +by a beautiful Steinway piano, but thought it right at the +French Embassy to have Érards, which are of course fine +instruments. I fancy Steinway is more brilliant, but I +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_223" title="pg 223"> </a> +think we make noise enough, particularly when we are +playing Wagner—the <em>Kaiser March</em> for instance.</p> + +<p class="author">December 23d.</p> + +<p>It was not very cold this morning, so I tried the +new horse, and he went very well. I have had a thick +hunting habit made, and was quite comfortable, except +the hands, which were cold at starting. I fussed all day +over the Christmas tree which we are to have on the +26th, and this evening we had a small farewell dinner for +Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, who is going away to +Vienna. I am very sorry, as he is a good colleague and an +easy and charming talker. He sat a long time with me +the other day talking over his Paris experiences and the +brilliant days of the Empire—Tuileries, Compiègne, etc. +It was most interesting and new to me, as I only know +Paris since the war (1870) and have never seen either +Emperor or Empress. I suppose I never shall see her, +as she never comes to London, and lives a very secluded +life at Farnborough with a small household, and some +Paris friends who come sometimes, not very often, to +see her. What a tragic "fin de vie" hers is, having had +everything and lost everything. We had also the Russian +and Spanish Ambassadors—Staal charming, clever, +easy, simple—"simpatico," the only word I know in any +language which expresses exactly that combination of +qualities. Casa La Iglesia, the Spaniard, is a tall, handsome, +attractive-looking man. He made havoc in the +various posts he has occupied, and when we want to +tease him we ask him about his departure from Berlin, +and all the "femmes affolées" who were at the station +to see the last of him. Henrietta and Anne have arrived +for Christmas, laden of course with presents and souvenirs +for everybody, and Francis is quite happy with +his aunts.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_224" title="pg 224"> </a></p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate, London</span>,<br > +December 24, 1885.</p> + +<p>The sisters and I have been shopping all day getting +the last things for the tree, which is to be on the 26th. +The streets are most animated, full of people, all carrying +parcels, and all with smiling faces. The big toy-shops +and confectioners crowded. "Buzzard," the great shop +in Oxford Street, most amusing; hundreds of Christmas +cakes of all sizes. There are plum cakes frosted with +sugar icing, the date generally in red letters and a sprig +of ivy or evergreen stuck in at the top. We had ordered +a large one, and they were much pleased to do it for the +French Embassy, and wanted to make the letters in "tri-color," +red, white, and blue. We wound up at the +Army and Navy Stores, and really had some difficulty +in getting in. They had quantities of Christmas trees +already decorated, which were being sold as fast as they +were brought in.</p> + +<p>There were splendid turkeys, enormous; and curiously +enough they told us many of them came from France, +from a well-known turkey farm in the Loiret. I must +ask the Ségurs, who live in that part of the country, if +they know the place. There were quantities of plum-puddings +of all sizes and prices, and it must be a very +poor household that doesn't have its plum-pudding to-morrow. +We were glad to get back to tea and hot buttered +toast—a thoroughly English institution. I would +like some of my French servants to learn how to make it, +but I don't suppose they will. In fact I don't know +exactly who makes it here—I am quite sure neither +Juteau nor his "garçon de cuisine" would condescend to +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_225" title="pg 225"> </a> +do anything so simple. I suppose it isn't the "odd man" +who seems to do all the things that no one else will, but +I sha'n't inquire as long as it appears.</p> + +<p>We had a quiet evening—talked a little politics while +W. was smoking. Henrietta always sees a great many +people of all kinds, and tells him various little things +that don't come to him in his official despatches. The +house is comfortable enough, though there is no calorifère, +and it is a corner house. There are enormous +coal fires everywhere, except in my bedroom and dressing-room, +where I always burn wood—and such wood—little +square pieces like children's blocks.</p> + +<p class="author">Christmas Day.</p> + +<p>It was dark and foggy this morning, we could hardly +see the trees opposite, and the lamps are lighted in the +house and the streets. Francis was enchanted with his +presents. I think the billiard-table from Paris and the +big boat ("aussi grand que Monsieur Toutain"—one of +our Secretaries) were what pleased him most. There is a +sort of sailing match every Sunday morning on the Serpentine. +Some really beautiful boats (models) full-rigged, +and it is a pretty sight to see them all start a +miniature yacht race across the river. Francis always +goes with Clarisse, and Yves, his own little Breton footman, +carries his boat, which is much bigger than he is, +also Boniface, a wise little fox-terrier who knows all +about it, and gallops around the top of the lake to meet +his master's boat on the other side. They have also one +of the Park keepers and a gigantic policeman, who is always +on duty at Albert Gate, to look after them. Not a +useless precaution, as the boat often gets entangled in +the reeds, and <em>has</em> been known to go to the bottom of +the lake, and Boniface always gets lost and is brought +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_226" title="pg 226"> </a> +back by a policeman or a soldier, or a friend—Hilda +Deichmann brought him back one day.</p> + +<p>We had a cheerful Christmas dinner—all our personnel—M. +Blanchard de Forges, Consul General, and Villiers, +the correspondent of the "Débats" in London. We +did a little music after dinner. I tried for some Christmas +carols "We Three Kings of Orient Are" (do you +remember that at Oyster Bay? how long ago it seems), +but the English-speaking element was not strong +enough. We danced a little, winding up with a sort of +Scotch reel—Henrietta, Waru (our Military Attaché), +and Petiteville being the chief performers.</p> + +<p class="author">December 26th.</p> + +<p>We are all rather exhausted after the Christmas tree; +however, the children were quite pleased, and the tree +really very pretty. A gigantic pine, reaching to the top +of the ceiling in the ballroom, a star on the top and very +well lighted. We had 34 children of all ages and nationalities, +from Nadine Karolyi, aged 18, daughter of +Count Karolyi, Austrian Ambassador and Doyen of the +Corps Diplomatique, to Florence Williams' baby girl +of 16 months. The little ones were sweet, speechless at +first, with round eyes fixed on the tree, and then little +fat arms stretched out for something. The children's +tea-table looked pretty, arranged with coloured candles +and holly, and an enormous Christmas cake in the middle +with a wreath of holly around it. Nadine Karolyi cut +the first slice of cake, as daughter of the Doyen she sat on +Francis's right hand, and Thekla Staal, daughter of the +Russian Ambassador, on his left. W. was much amused +at the correct placing of the young ladies. We start to-morrow +for Knowsley and Luton Hoo, and the packing +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_227" title="pg 227"> </a> +is quite an affair. I take 10 dresses, besides jackets, hats, +etc. I must have short costumes to follow the battues +for fine and bad weather—a swell day dress, as we are to +lunch at Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place near Knowsley; +and two ball dresses, as there is to be a county ball for +all the neighbourhood at Luton, New Year's night, and +a small dance with a cotillon (which is unusual in England) +the next night. Adelaïde is rather fatigued, as besides +my trunk she has to finish off her toilettes, and she +has just come in to ask me if she shall take the regulation +black silk, or a blue silk, which is more dressy; as they +tell her the <em>ladies</em> in the housekeeper's room are very +dressy at Luton. I said the blue silk by all means—she +must be up to the mark. The fog has kept up pretty +well all day. I hope it will clear to-morrow, we are +going straight into the coal country. Knowsley is near +Liverpool, and I fancy it is always dark there.</p> + +<p>I was telling Nigra the other day about our first Roman +Christmas and what an impression it made upon us. +Such a splendid winter, always a bright blue sky, and +roses straggling over all the old grey walls. The +Pifferari singing to the Madonnas at all the street corners, +the midnight Mass and mysterious Pastorale in St. +Peter's at early dawn with the tapers trembling on the +high altar so far away; and the grand Christmas ceremony +at St. Peter's, with all the magnificent pomp of the +Catholic Church in Rome. We talked on for some +time about "Roma com' era," which of course he doesn't +regret, and I told him of our last night in Rome, when we +all went "en bande" to drink at the Fountain of Trevi +(which is supposed to act as a charm and to bring people +back to Rome). I remember quite well how tearful I +was when we left. I didn't think then that life was worth +living out of the shadow of St. Peter's, and think so a +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_228" title="pg 228"> </a> +little still even now, though my lines have lain in very +different places.</p> + +<p>We leave Francis in the sisters' charge, with the joys +of a pantomime before him.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Knowsley</span>,<br > +December 29, 1885.</p> + +<p>We arrived here late yesterday afternoon. It is a long, +uninteresting journey (almost to Liverpool), was cold +and foggy all the way down, and we found snow when +we arrived in the Park—also a perfect gale of wind, the +enormous bare, black winter trees swaying like poplars. +The large house, with all the façade brightly lighted, +gave us at once a cheerful welcome. Lady Derby was +waiting for us in the long, low drawing-room with tea, +and we went up almost immediately to dress for dinner. +We had sent the servants by an earlier train, which was +convenient, as they had time to unpack and have everything +ready for us. We have a charming apartment—a +very good-sized salon, with bedrooms large and comfortable +on each side. The salon furnished in a bright chintz, +and good pictures, mostly family portraits, on the walls. +There were blazing fires everywhere—these enormous +rocks of Liverpool coal one sees here. I instantly proceeded +to demolish mine in my bedroom. Adelaïde had +already tried to make the housemaid understand that her +lady didn't like warm rooms, but the other one pointed +to the snow under the windows, and heaped on her pieces +of coal.</p> + +<p>Dinner was at 8 <em>punctually</em> (which was a contrast to +Hatfield, where we had been staying the other day. +There dinner was easily half past eight, and after we had +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_229" title="pg 229"> </a> +been at table some little time various friends and members +of the family appeared, and slid quietly into their +places at the end of the very long table). There is a +large family party here and some other guests, including +the two historians, Froude and Lecky, both most interesting.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus264.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Knowsley Hal" id="illus264" title="Knowsley Hal"> </a> + +<p class="center small">Knowsley Hall<br > +The Earl of Derby's place at Prescot Lancashire</p></div> + + +<p>We dined in a fine hall with family portraits of all the +Derbys, from the first one at Bosworth down to the present +Earl, who is the 16th Earl of Derby. There was +beautiful plate on the table—fine racing cups—as the +Stanleys were always quite as much racing men as statesmen. +These are such curious things in England, the +love of sport is so strong. Fancy any of our statesmen, +Thiers, Guizot, Dufaure, etc., with racing stables. Lord +Derby is very easy and rather inclined to chaff Americans +a little, but I didn't mind. The evening was short after +we adjourned to the drawing-room. Lady Derby is +rather delicate, and is suffering just now from a bad eye. +I sat some time in my comfortable room upstairs, but was +glad to get to bed early after the cold journey. W. +went off to the fumoir, and had a most interesting talk +over Ireland and Irish questions with Mr. Lecky. This +morning was awful; snow, sleet, and a cold rain—however, +the sportsmen were not to be deterred by any such +mild obstacle, and started at 9.30 in a big break with four +horses. I watched the departure from my window, and +was very glad I was not going to make any such expedition. +I had my breakfast upstairs, and had an amusing +explanation with the housemaid who appeared at 9.30 +with an enormous tray and breakfast enough for a family—tea, +beefsteaks, cold partridges, eggs, rolls, toast, potatoes, +buns and fruit—you never saw such a meal. She +couldn't believe that I only wanted tea and toast and an +egg (which was an extra, but as I knew we should only +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_230" title="pg 230"> </a> +lunch at two, and I am accustomed to have my déjeuner +à la fourchette at 12, I was sure I should be hungry if I +didn't take something), and asked me most respectfully +if I was not well, and would like something else—"a little +soup perhaps."</p> + +<p>I went downstairs about 12 and found the ladies in the +drawing-room all complaining of the cold. Lady Derby +took me over the house—it has not the beautiful proportions +of Hatfield—is long, low, and rambling, but most +comfortable. The library is a fine room with deep window +recesses, and most comfortable with a bright fire +burning. The librarian was there and showed us some +of his treasures, among them an old copy of the "Roman +de la Rose," and various old manuscripts. We went on +to the dining-room, and Lady Derby explained the family +portraits to me. The long, unbroken line of Earls of +Derby is most interesting, and the change in the portraits +for the two or three generations where the French blood +shows itself, most curious. The wife of the Earl of +Derby who died on the scaffold, giving his life for his +King, was the famous Charlotte de la Trémouille, who +defended her castle—Lathom House—so gallantly +against Fairfax and his Roundheads. Do you remember +one of our school-room books in America, "Heroines of +History," where there was a description of the siege of +Lathom House, and a picture of the Countess of Derby +standing on the ramparts in a riding habit and hat and +feathers and apparently loading a cannon herself and +showing a gunner how to point it?</p> + +<p>The portraits are most interesting; first the regular +Saxon type, then the French streak, pale oval faces, and +dark eyes and hair (not unlike the Stuarts, who have +always a foreign look); then the true British, more and +more accentuated down to the present Earl. They have +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_231" title="pg 231"> </a> +also in one of the halls the block on which the Lord +Derby knelt who was beheaded in 1631.</p> + +<p>The sportsmen arrived about tea-time, apparently +neither cold nor tired, and having had a fine shoot.</p> + +<p class="author">New Year's Day, 1886.</p> + +<p>We are leaving this afternoon for Luton, Mme. de +Falbe's place, where there is a ball and cotillon to-night. +We were to go and join the shooters yesterday, but it +was rainy and cold, and the ladies didn't care to go out. +The talk at luncheon was pleasant; Froude is brilliant and +easy. His American experiences and stories were amusing, +but I told him he mustn't take the very eccentric +ladies and gentlemen whom he had encountered as specimens +of Americans. I didn't know any such people, that +really most of us were quite quiet and ordinary, and like +everybody else. Lord Derby rather urged him on, and +was amused at our perfectly amicable discussion. We +drove over to Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place, after lunch. +The park is fine and they have capital shooting. Our +evening was quiet, and we broke up early, as they always +have a midnight service in the chapel on New Year's eve +for the family and servants and any of the guests who +like to attend. We left the drawing-room at 10.30, so +that the servants might put out the lights, finish their +work, etc., and also to have time to get out of our low +dresses and jewels. A little before 12 Lady Margaret +Cecil (Lady Derby's daughter by her first husband, Lord +Salisbury) came for us and we went to the chapel. I +had put on a dark cloth dress and jacket, nothing on my +head. The chapel was full, all the servants (including +my French maid) and household. Lady Margaret, looking +like a saint in her plain black dress, and beautiful earnest +expression, sat at the little organ, and everybody, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_232" title="pg 232"> </a> +gardeners, keepers, coachmen, cooks, housemaids, joined +in the singing. It was very solemn and impressive. At +the end of the service we all went out first, and then Lady +Margaret and her brother Lord Lionel stood at the head +of the stairs and shook hands with all the guests, and all +the servants, wishing all a "Happy New Year." It was +a nice beginning of the New Year. Lord Derby hopes +our next one will be also in England and at Knowsley, +but everything is so uncertain, and of such short duration +in our country (especially Cabinets) that we can +hardly look forward a year.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Luton</span>,<br > +January 3, 1886.</p> + +<p>Our journey yesterday from Knowsley was not very +long, and some of the country all about Matlock, in +Derbyshire, quite wild and lovely. Our host here is M. +de Falbe, Danish Minister, who married Mrs. Leigh, +owner of this charming place. We found the house +party, mostly young, assembled in the morning-room +with tea, the ladies all, as usual, in very dressy tea-gowns. +I can't quite get used to that fashion, though +I see it is very practical in the country at this season. +Everyone goes out (in all weathers generally) from +luncheon till tea-time, and of course one must get out of +short skirts and muddy boots before coming down to the +drawing-room. We went up early to dress, as Mme. de +Falbe wanted to dine precisely at 8, on account of the +ball afterwards. The house is large, with endless corners +and corridors, fine drawing-rooms, library, and a large +chapel with a fine organ. The dinner was handsome and +very well arranged, five round tables, and quantities of +silver, flowers, servants, etc. About 10.30 the company +began to arrive, many county neighbours, Salisburys, +Lyttons, Caledons, etc., bringing their house parties with +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_233" title="pg 233"> </a> +them. We had a very pretty cotillon. At the end the +children's pony came in carrying two big baskets filled +with presents. The poor little thing was very gentle, +but was evidently afraid of slipping on the parquet floor.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus270.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Late Earl of Derby" id="illus270" title="The Late Earl of Derby"> </a> + +<p class="center small">The Late Earl of Derby<br > +From a photograph by Franz Baum, London</p></div> + + +<p class="author">Sunday, 3d.</p> + +<p>To-day has been charming; first the service in the +house chapel, very good organ music—Mme. de Falbe is +musical and arranges everything. After breakfast they +organized a paper hunt for the "jeunesse" in the park, +and the older people walked about. The rendezvous +was the dairy—a model one, quite delightful with tiles, +and creepers running along the walls and peeping everywhere +in at the windows. One by one the young +people assembled, flushed and exhausted with running, +and all clamouring for tea. Comte Jacques de Pourtalès +(one of our Secretaries), a young officer of the +Blues, and Forbes, Mme. de Falbe's son-in-law, were +the hares and got in some time before the hounds. +After tea Falbe took me over to the stables, where there +were plenty of horses, and also to the "vacherie," which +was perfect. They have 40 small Alderney cows, all the +same breed and colour, pretty little beasts, and so wonderfully +clean, kept like pet dogs.</p> + +<p>The dinner and evening was most lively, choruses, banjos +(which is a favourite instrument in English houses), +and every kind of game, including musical chairs—M. de +Falbe at the piano. I think everyone played except the +Falbes and ourselves. W. and Falbe retired afterwards +to the smoking-room, and were deep in foreign politics. +Falbe is a perfect type of the diplomatist, tall, good-looking, +and a charming, courteous manner. We ladies went +off about 11, and an hour later we heard the most unearthly +noises in the house. All the men parading the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_234" title="pg 234"> </a> +corridors with banjos, bells, gongs, etc., and singing (if +singing it can be called) at the top of their voices. They +stopped at every door to serenade. The party breaks +up to-morrow, and we all go back to London.</p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +Sunday, January 17, 1886.</p> + +<p>We had a musical dinner last night for Miss Griswold +and Albanesi, and they sang and played all the evening. +Albanesi has a charming, delicate touch, and plays with +all the Italian brio. He told me—what surprised me—that +he was always frightfully nervous when playing in +public, and much preoccupied with the "composition de +la salle"—if he saw one or two unsympathetic faces he +had at once a disagreeable sensation! Gertrude Griswold +has always the same lovely voice with a beautiful +clear ring in it, and sings most artistically.</p> + +<p>This morning we have been to church at St. Paul's. +It is a fine service, a splendid organ, and very good well-trained +choir—but not at all solemn. I felt as if I was +in one of the great Catholic cathedrals in Italy. People +were coming and going all the time, and walking about +the church. It is so enormous that it is quite a walk from +the big doors to the small (comparatively) enclosed space +where the congregation assembles.</p> + +<p>I have been at home all the afternoon receiving—men +only, which is a regular London custom. Adams came in +at tea-time. He and W. always like to have a good talk +over old times. They were at school and college together, +and Adams, when he was Chargé d'Affaires at +the British Embassy, used to have all sorts of questions +to treat with W., who was then Ministre des Affaires +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_235" title="pg 235"> </a> +Étrangeres in Paris. They always began their conversations +in French, and then fell into English, which of +course they had always spoken together.</p> + +<p>To-night we have a small dinner for Rustem Pacha, +and I have asked one or two people in the evening. I +should like to be at home always on Sunday night, as we +did in the Champs Élysées, but they tell me no English +will come. Many of them don't go out on Sunday night, +and don't take their horses out, and give servants a rest. +I asked Lady A., who is very mondaine, if she would +come to dinner to meet a few colleagues, and she said—"Dear +Mme. Waddington, let me come another night; +I never take out my carriage and servants on Sunday."</p> + +<p>Jean Gordon Gumming is very much exercised over +what she calls my French ways, and constantly tells me +people don't do such and such things in England; but I +always tell her the French Embassy is <em>not</em> England; however, +she is rather worried over me, and finds me un-English +(which is not surprising) and unconventional, +which is also not surprising, considering my nationality.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author">January 21, 1886.</p> + +<p>We have had a great function to-day, the Queen +opened Parliament. We all went in gala, Countess D'A. +and P. with us, the men in uniform, I in red satin, low, +with diamonds and feathers. The road was lined with +policemen and mounted soldiers in lieu of infantry, as +there would have been with us. As we passed through +the Horse-Guards the trumpeters saluted. We went at +once into the great hall of the Lords', which was a fine +sight. All the peers were there in their scarlet robes +trimmed with white fur, and the women in low dresses, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_236" title="pg 236"> </a> +diamonds, and feathers (feathers play a great part in all +English toilettes). The Judges also were in full dress, +with wigs and gowns. About 1.30 the Princes began to +arrive, Prince of Wales, Dukes of Edinburgh, Connaught, +and Cambridge all also in scarlet robes with +bands of ermine and gold, and the collar of the Garter. +We sat close to the Throne (Countess Karolyi didn't +come, so I was Doyenne), then Madame de Staal and the +Duchesses Bedford, Hamilton, Sutherland, and others. +The Prince of Wales stood next to me some time, presenting +the Duke of Connaught, whom I had not seen, +and talked pleasantly enough, explaining various things +to me; also said he was rather shy at taking his seat on +the raised platform until the last moment. He had an +arm-chair on the right of the Throne. I asked him for +whom the other arm-chair was and he said it was his +father's, had never been used since his death, and showed +me the Saxon arms on it. The three brothers, Wales, +Edinburgh, and Connaught, remained standing together. +The other Princes, Christian, Duke of Teck, and Henry +of Battenberg, were opposite to us; Battenberg, who +has a slight, stylish figure, looking handsome in British +Volunteer Uniform (dark green) with the collar of the +Garter. Teck looks badly, older and thinner. He must +have been a very handsome man (which, by the way, he +tells one frequently). When Prince Alexander of Battenberg +was at one of the Court balls everyone was talking +about him and saying what a magnificent man he was. +Teck, who was dancing a quadrille with me, was much +put out, and said to me, "Do you really find Battenberg +so very handsome? It is a pity you didn't know me +when I was his age; I was much handsomer," and appealed +to Count D., Austrian Ambassador, an old friend +and "compagnon d'armes," to support his statement, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_237" title="pg 237"> </a> +which I must say he did most warmly, and one can quite +see it.</p> + +<p>All the Ambassadors and men of the Corps Diplomatique +faced us—the English women were upstairs. +About 2.30 (we had been there since 1.30) we heard a +trumpet call, and all the company stood up. We women +dropped our cloaks, and the Prince took his place standing +on the dais. Presently appeared the Garter King-at-Arms +and various officers of the household. The Duke +of Portland stood on the right of the Throne holding a +Royal crown on a cushion. Lord Salisbury (Premier) +carried a large sword with a double handle, and then +came the Queen followed by Princess Beatrice and +Princes Eddie and George of Wales. The Queen was +dressed in black satin with a long train, lined and trimmed +with ermine, quantities of diamonds on her neck and corsage, +the blue ribbon of the Garter, and a regular closed +crown of diamonds, and white veil. As she came in the +Prince of Wales advanced, touched the ground with one +knee, kissed her hand, and led her to the Throne. He +did his part most easily and gracefully, and didn't look at +all shy. The Queen's train was carried by Sir Henry +Ponsonby and two pages in red and gold. Princess +Beatrice and the Duchess of Buccleuch (Mistress of the +Robes) stood behind the Queen on her right, Princes +Eddie and George on her left, Lord Salisbury, Halsbury, +Lathom, and some others were also on the dais. As +soon as the Queen was settled on her Throne she bowed +to us all right and left. We made deep curtseys, and +then she made a sign that we were to sit down. There +was a few moments' silence while they went to summon +the Commons. Then one heard a noise of scrambling +and racing in the corridors—and they appeared; the +Speaker, looking very well in his wig and gown, came +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_238" title="pg 238"> </a> +first, fairly shot into the hall like a bomb by the impatient +crowd behind him. Then the Lord Chancellor, asking +the Queen's permission, read her speech in a clear, +distinct voice, so that one heard every word. It was very +short, and as soon as it was over the Queen went away +with the same ceremony as when she came. When she +got to the foot of the dais she made a very pretty half +curtsey. The Princes left directly afterwards—we too. +The crowd in the street was tremendous, everyone always +is anxious to see the Queen, and much excited over the +cream-coloured Hanoverian horses which she uses when +she goes anywhere in semi-state. As they only go out +very seldom it is rather a responsibility for the Master +of the Horse to see that they are perfectly quiet.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Windsor</span>, March 8, 1886.</p> + +<p>We are at Windsor for the second time to dine and +sleep, and we are "Doyens" now, so have a sweller apartment +in one of the towers—the walls so thick that they +make splendid deep window recesses (and a piano). We +had asked an audience of Princess Beatrice, who received +us before dinner about 7. I wore my brown velvet in +which I had come down, and we found her in a small +salon with a piano and pretty pictures and bibelots about. +She was in an ordinary red costume, and was rather cold +and shy at first, but thawed when Battenberg appeared. +He has a delightful easy way, that sort of charm that +so many Poles have. The party was a small one—no +other diplomats but Mr. and Mrs. Phelps, both charming, +and some English. The ceremony was quite the same +as before. The Queen came about nine and went alone +into the dining-room, and had her two sons-in-law, +Christian and Battenberg, on each side. W. took in +Princess Beatrice, and Mr. Phelps me, so I was quite +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_239" title="pg 239"> </a> +happy. The Queen spoke little, in German, principally, +to her neighbours, the English scarcely at all, and almost +in whispers. I don't know what would happen to me if +I dined often at court, I couldn't sit at table for an hour +without talking to someone. Mr. P. says American +women are not made for courts and convenances. They +lose all their charm if they are not natural, and I think +he is right. The cercle lasted about an hour. The Queen +and I talked music. She regrets Münster, who is going +to Paris.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, March 9.</p> + +<p>We were asked this morning if we would like to drive +to the Mausoleum before we went back to town, which +we accepted of course. W. and I went in an open +carriage, a pair of horses and postillion, and Lord Thurlow, +Lord in Waiting, with us. In the next came Mr. +and Mrs. Phelps with Mrs. F., Lady in Waiting. We +drove down the "long walk" to the Mausoleum, which is +not very far from the Castle. It is a handsome building +with a fine marble floor like some of the old Italian +chapels. The tomb of the Prince Consort is very fine, +with a recumbent marble statue and a place beside it +for the Queen when her turn comes. There is a pretty +monument "In Memoriam" to Princess Alice (of Hesse) +with her child in her arms, and a tablet to the memory +of John Brown as "a grateful tribute from Queen Victoria +to the faithful servant and friend of 34 years." We +then drove to Frogmore and saw the farm, basse-cour, +dairy, etc., and took the 12.30 train back to London. +This evening we have had a handsome dinner and reception +at the Russian Embassy; the whole house open, band +playing, and all London there. The Duchess of Edinburgh +dined. Corti made his first appearance in the +"grand monde" as Ambassador. He is much pleased to +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_240" title="pg 240"> </a> +be in London. I don't know if he and W. will be very +cordial colleagues, as Corti decidedly resented W.'s attitude +in the Berlin Congress.</p> + + +<h3><em>To J. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Clieveden, Maidenhead</span>,<br > +Sunday, March 29, 1886.</p> + +<p>I will begin my letter this evening, Dear Jan, in this +most lovely place of the Duke of Westminster's which +Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassador, always hires, until +after Easter, as his wife hates to spend the winter in town. +We came down yesterday afternoon with one of their +secretaries, a nice young fellow. We found the Karolyis +alone in a charming library filled with books in all +languages, and with the most enchanting view of the +Thames—quite like the view from Richmond Terrace, +if you remember it. They gave us tea—and about 7 we +went up to our rooms. Mine is the one the Duchess always +has, and W. has the dressing-room next, a large +room, all hung with rose-coloured silk, faded into yellow +now, an enormous bed with yellow silk curtains and +counterpane, a bath-room with marble bath opening out +of a little passage, quite complete, and always the same +divine view. The rooms are filled with pictures, souvenirs +of all the Sutherlands (whose place it was originally), +Westminsters, and all the English Royal family +of all ages. At 8 a gong sounded and we went down +to the library (where they live entirely), and found them +there with the addition of Count Victor Karolyi, a +cousin. The dinner was good, 4 servants, their chasseurs, +in Hungarian uniform, 2 in black and one in +plain livery. After dinner the 2 Karolyi men sat +down to cards, W. and the young man talked, also +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_241" title="pg 241"> </a> +Mme. K. and I—and all the men smoked. It was +easy enough, as everyone talked a great deal. We +broke up at 11. This morning we had breakfast at 10, +and afterwards Mme. K. showed me the house, which is +very handsome, one large, beautiful drawing-room opening +on the terrace and river view. They live only in the +library, as the rest is so enormous to light and heat. At +12 M. and Mme. de Staal, the Russian Ambassador and +his wife, arrived, and we went for a stroll in the grounds. +Went out again after lunch for a long walk down by the +river in short skirts and thick boots, as it was very damp—almost +always is on the banks, generally low, of the +Thames. It looked very pretty and gay, quite a number +of boats and some people we all knew, staying in one of +the houses near, got out of their boats and walked along +with us. We came in for tea at 5.30, and after that +adjourned to our respective rooms till dinner. The +evening was pleasant, as we were more numerous and +Staal talks a great deal. Now I am going to bed, as it +is 11 o'clock, and we breakfast at a quarter to ten to-morrow, +and get back to London at 11.30.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus280.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Countess Fanny Karolyi 1888 the Austrian Ambassadress" id="illus280" title="The Countess Fanny Karolyi 1888 the Austrian Ambassadress"> </a> + +<p class="center small">The Countess Fanny Karolyi 1888 the Austrian Ambassadress +From a photograph by Walery London</p></div> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, Monday, 30th.</p> + +<p>We got back this morning at 1 for lunch, and have +been in a wild state ever since with the bad news from +Tonkin and the defeat of our troops. The Ministry is +out, and Heaven knows what will happen. W. is as blue +as indigo over the news, as he had been very cocky over +Tonkin, as compared with the English blunders in the +Soudan. Already there are despatches in the clubs here, +saying W. has been asked to take the Foreign Office. +Of course he hasn't been asked, and I hope he won't +be, for I should hate to begin that official life in Paris +again, and I am very happy here now—however, one +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_242" title="pg 242"> </a> +never knows in political life. Do you know anything +about Phelps? W. is very anxious to have your +opinion. He says you ought to know about a Vermont +man. He will have a difficult "succession." Mr. Lowell +is much liked and admired.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, +April 10, 1886.</p> + +<p>We have had a pleasant morning luncheon at Roll's +Court with Lord Esher, who showed us a quantity of +most interesting old manuscripts. A letter from "Bloody +Mary" to Cardinal Pole announcing her "grossesse" (the +arrival of a Prince), also the confession and signature of +Guy Fawkes after torture, such a wavering, faint signature, +"Guido." It is extraordinary how all the papers +and handwriting have lasted. All these old-world things +are so interesting to me, I seem to realize history so much +more. I hope to get over to Paris for a little this month. +We had a nice party (music) at Louisa Lady Ashburton's +this evening, and an interesting collection of people, +fashionable, literary, and <em>Salvation Army</em>. The house is +crowded with statues, pictures, and artistic treasures of +all kinds.</p> + + +<h3><em>To J. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France à Londres</span>,<br > +Sunday, May 29, 1887.</p> + +<p>We seem to have a gleam of sunshine this afternoon, +Dear Jan, after weeks of bleak east winds and grey skies, +and we are going to take advantage of it to drive out to +White Lodge, Richmond Park, and see the Tecks. We +are revelling in Whitsuntide recess, and no dinners or banquets +until Friday, the second Court Concert. Last night +I went to the Opéra with the Staals. It was "Faust," +very well given, with Albani, Scalchi, and Gayare. The +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_243" title="pg 243"> </a> +house was fairly brilliant, but not full—the Prince and +Princess of Wales, Rothschilds, and a certain number of +people, who came to hear Albani (she is such a favourite +here). I should think it would be a losing operation. +Tell Janet Mlle. de Staal looks so nice, is so much +more animated, really very pretty, so high bred and always +well dressed. Lady Salisbury's reception at the +F. O. on Tuesday for the Queen's Birthday was very +brilliant; there were quantities of Princes; a Danish +Prince, brother of the Princess of Wales; a young +Russian Grand Duke, a son of the late Prince Frederick +Charles, brother of the Duchess of Connaught, and any +quantity of Maharajahs, covered with gold and silver +embroidery and diamonds and emeralds as big as eggs. +They always make a great fuss over the Indian Princes +at Court—treat them like Royalty, and give them very +good places. The Corps Diplomatique always protests. +The lion of the evening was Herbert Bismarck. From +the Prince of Wales down everyone, men and women, +was overwhelming him with attentions. I didn't think +the Danish Prince looked much pleased. He remarked +that "Bismarck had a most disagreeable voice." Lizzie +P. was wandering about looking very handsome. I +didn't see Buffalo Bill, which rather surprised me. I +suppose he is genuine, isn't he? He professed to remember +Captain King perfectly when I said I had a brother +who had been some time on the plains with his regiment. +Certainly the "Wild West Show" is most original and +entertaining. The Indians look savage enough to satisfy +anyone, and Buffalo Bill and the King of the Cowboys +are splendid specimens of frontiersmen.</p> + +<p class="author">Monday.</p> + +<p>I will finish this morning; it is still dark and rainy. We +went out yesterday to White Lodge and had a pleasant +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_244" title="pg 244"> </a> +visit. It was much too cold to sit out, so we had tea in +the gallery and enjoyed it very much. Princess Mary is +always so easy. The young Princess May looked very +nice in a light tweed with a white waistcoat. She asked +after Janet, and wanted to know if she was to be here this +season. I asked Princess Mary what she was going to +wear at the Jubilee Te Deum at Westminster. She said +she had no idea, but she had been told long dress, smart +bonnet, decorations and diamonds. It seems the Queen +is going to wear a white bonnet covered with diamonds. +I have asked no questions and mean to wear a short dress—no +one will see, as we do not join any cortége. We +arrive quite simply and go straight to our places. I +shall wear white lace with mousse velvet, and a +mousse bonnet with pink roses. Tell Janet, I am convinced +I shall never wear my moiré apricot dress from +Roulf, that I couldn't wear last year at any of the Court +fêtes. I am sure the German Prince will die. They say +he may at any moment, as the excrescence in his throat +may increase, and then he would suffocate. Wouldn't it +be strange if that old Emperor outlived the son. Neither +sled nor fans have yet arrived. I suppose they will appear +soon. We have one or two things we mean to send +out, as soon as we have an opportunity—gloves, etc. I +should think some of the 75,000 Americans who are +coming over would go back in the course of the summer. +Princess Mary told me yesterday that a pretty +American girl—an heiress—she couldn't remember the +name—did I know?—is probably going to marry a +Count Btetju, aide-de-camp to the Prince of Denmark. +It seems he saw her here and fell in love with her at once. +I must stop now. Have any quantity of notes to write.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_245" title="pg 245"> </a></p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +June 14, 1887.</p> + +<p>London is getting ready for the Jubilee and the streets +are crowded. Various Royalties have arrived, and one +meets Royal carriages, escorts, and strong squads of +police at every turn. It is warm and lovely to-day—so +was yesterday. W., Francis and I drove out to Sheen, +where W. plays tennis in Lord F.'s private court. I wandered +about under the trees, and Francis sailed his boat +in the pond and was quite happy. It is such a rest to +get a few hours in the country when one is going out all +the time as we are here—and above all not to have to +talk. We had a remarkable entertainment last night, +given by the Hawaiian Secretary (who is a German-American) +for his Queen, of the Sandwich Islands. We +arrived in due time, I rather protesting.</p> + +<p>There was a large reception after dinner and the mistress +of the house asked us if we wouldn't stand by the +Queen and make a sort of cercle, and a funny contrast +we made—Mrs. P. beautifully dressed in white satin and +lace, Lady R. with splendid jewels, I wore my pink +brocade and old Venetian lace. It really was too absurd. +I talked a little to the Princess, who is intelligent +enough. The Queen is a great stickler for etiquette, +and insisted upon the same honours as any other Royalties, +an escort of <em>Life Guards</em>;—wouldn't accept any +less distinguished escort.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +June 18, 1887.</p> + +<p>We have had rather an amusing afternoon. I think +I wrote you that we wanted to leave Westminster Abbey +the minute the ceremony was over, get through the line +of troops, and back to a friend's house in Piccadilly to see +the cortége—we being Mrs. Phelps and I. Our respective +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_246" title="pg 246"> </a> +husbands were most discouraging (as men always +are), but we dined last night with Knowles to meet the +Duke of Cambridge, and I told His Royal Highness what +we wanted to do, and asked him if he could help us. +After some little discussion he said he would advise us to +go directly to Sir Charles Warren (Chief of Police) and +see what he could arrange for us. Again our husbands +remonstrated, "Warren was overrun with applications of +all kinds, worked to death, and it was very unreasonable," +but backed by the Duke we determined to try.</p> + +<p>I told His Royal Highness I should put on my most +becoming Paris bonnet and beard the lion in his den. +He said, "Quite right, my dear, a man is always flattered +when a woman tries to please him," so accordingly about +3 Mrs. Phelps and I started for Scotland Yard. George +was rather surprised when I gave the order. We drove +through one or two courts and were stopped once by a +huge policeman, who let us go on when we said it was the +French Ambassadress. We were shown at once into Sir +Charles's room, and I must say he was charming, most +kind and courteous. We had arranged beforehand that +I was to be spokeswoman, and I went at once to the +point. He was sitting at his table with letters and papers +and telegrams, the telegraph ticking all the time, despatches +and telegrams being brought in, and as busy a +man as I ever saw. He immediately sent for maps of +the route, distribution of the troops, etc., and said he +thought he could manage it. We must have a light carriage +(of course we must go to the Abbey in state in the +gala coach) waiting at the Poets' Corner, as near the +door as it can get; he will send us a pass to break through +the lines, and will have three or four policemen waiting +for us at the corner of Piccadilly and one of the smaller +streets to pass us through the crowd. We really didn't +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_247" title="pg 247"> </a> +derange him very much. The whole conversation lasted +about ten minutes, and he was rather amused at this +sudden appearance of the two "femmes du monde" in his +"milieu" of clerks, policemen, telegraph boys, type-writers +and a hurrying, bustling crowd of employés of all +kinds. We returned triumphant to our respective +houses.</p> + +<p>We had a fine reception last night at the Austrian Embassy +in honour of Prince Rudolph. We arrived late, +having dined out. The Prince is very good-looking, +slight, elegant figure, and charming manners and smile. +All the world was there—quantities of pretty women, +and pretty dresses—the Countess Karolyi always the +handsomest.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +June 20, 1887.</p> + +<p>London is really a sight to-day, the streets gay with +flags, draperies, stands, illuminations, and quantities of +people gaping all day long. I went for a drive with +Mary Sheridan, daughter of Mr. Motley, late Minister +from the United States to the Court of St. James. We +didn't attempt going down Piccadilly, as we saw what a +dense crowd and block there was, so we crossed to Constitution +Hill. We went all round Westminster Abbey; +I wanted to see the Poets' Corner where we are to go in +to-morrow, and the House of Commons stand where she +is to be with her sister. We were blocked for a quarter +of an hour standing close to the Embankment. Some +of the mottoes are very nice. I like the humble ones best, +"God bless our Queen." We were a long time getting +back to the Embassy, Piccadilly almost impassable. It +was amusing, as everyone was arranging their balconies, +and we recognised various friends standing at windows, +and on balconies directing the arrangement of chairs, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_248" title="pg 248"> </a> +plants, flags, etc. After dinner W. took his cigar and we +walked about a little in Piccadilly. Some of the illuminations +had already begun and the crowd was dense, but +no jostling or roughs, everyone good-humoured and +wildly interested in the decorations. London is transformed +for the moment and looks like a great continental +city, all lights and flags and an "air de fête." We didn't +stay out very late, as we have a long day before us to-morrow. +They say the Queen is well, but rather "émue" +and a little nervous, which must be expected. I shall +wear white, the only objection to that being that jewels +won't show out, as they would on a darker colour.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate, London</span>,<br > +June 22, 1887.</p> + +<p>I am still exhausted, Dear, with the visions of a brilliant, +motley, moving crowd, when I shut my eyes. Yesterday +was beautiful, a glorious summer day. I was +waked up at 6.30 by the dull rumble of carriages, and +people already on the move. I thought they must have +forgotten to call me, but the house was still wrapped in +slumber, and though it was only 6.30 the Park was full of +carriages, men in uniform and women in full dress. We +started at 9.30 in the gala carriage, W. in uniform, and +were followed by a second carriage, landau, the men +equally in gala. We remained blocked for a long time in +Piccadilly, it didn't seem possible to get on; distracted +policemen, mounted and on foot, and officers did what +they could, but there we remained, curiously enough +all the Ambassadors' carriages together. Finally an order +was given to let the Ambassadors' carriages pass, +and we got on a little. Various Court carriages passed +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_249" title="pg 249"> </a> +us—one so pretty with the three little daughters of the +Duke of Edinburgh all in white with straw hats, and long +white feathers, sitting on the back seat, and smiling and +bowing, and looking quite charming with their fair hair +streaming down their backs. They had an equerry in +uniform with them on the front seat. Once past St. +James's Street we went quickly enough thro' long lines +of soldiers, and behind them quantities of people waiting +patiently to see the great show. We went into the +Abbey at the Poets' Corner, where an entrance was reserved +for the Corps Diplomatique and Court functionaries. +It was a fine sight; tier upon tier of seats covered +with red cloth and filled with men in uniform, and women +in handsome dresses. The Peers and Peeresses sat just +below us and looked very well; as it was Collar Day, all +the Garter men wore their white shoulder-knots, which +were most effective. It was very difficult to distinguish +people, the building is so enormous, but as we were close +to the dais we saw all the Royalties perfectly. At last +various members of the Royal Family came in, and the +first Sovereign to enter was Her Majesty of the Sandwich +Islands with her cortége; then came quickly the +King of the Belgians, King of Denmark, various other +Princes, and they all took their places on a platform facing +the Queen's dais. We waited some time, and then +came a flourish of trumpets which announced the +Queen's arrival. It was most interesting to see her come +up the aisle—quite alone in front—her three sons, Wales, +Edinburgh, and Connaught, just behind her. She was +dressed in black with silver embroidery, a white lace bonnet +with feathers, and lace caught back by diamond pins. +As she reached the dais she stepped on it quite alone, and +advancing to the front made a pretty curtsey to the assembled +Royalties. Then came a long procession of +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_250" title="pg 250"> </a> +family Princes, headed by the Prince of Wales and the +German Crown Prince, who looked magnificent in his +white uniform, and the Princess of Wales and the German +Crown Princess. They all passed before the Queen, +and it was most striking to see her seated there, a +quiet figure dressed in black, very composed and smiling, +yet "émue" too, as the long line of children and +grandchildren representing all Europe passed to do her +homage. It was a gorgeous crowd of uniforms, orders, +jewels, and really <em>glittering</em> garments of all kinds; but +every eye was fixed on the central figure. The service +began at once and was impressive. The Prince Consort's +"Te Deum" sounded magnificent with organ and +full band. I must own to considerable distraction during +the service, as I was quite taken up with looking at +everything. When the ceremony was over—or nearly—we +started at once, found our carriage (ordinary +landau) at the Poets' Corner again, and drove quickly +around by Belgravia and Albert Gate (breaking the lines +of troops once or twice, but with no difficulty, as orders +had been given), to the corner of Hamilton Place and +Piccadilly. There we had to leave the carriage, but it +was merely a few steps to my friend's house where we +were to see the procession pass; however we should +never have got there if we hadn't found the 4 gigantic +policemen who were waiting for us, and who deposited +us rather pulled about, but intact, at the door. We +found the balcony prettily decorated and filled with +people, and had an excellent view of the procession. The +Queen's carriage was handsome, an open landau red and +gold, with six cream-coloured horses with red and gold +trappings, and running footmen. She was alone on the +back seat; the Princesses of Wales and Germany on the +front seat. The escort of Princes was very brilliant. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_251" title="pg 251"> </a> +The Prince of Wales looked well on a fine horse, and the +German Crown Prince superb, towering over everyone +else, and his helmet shining in the bright sunlight. The +cheering was tremendous as the Queen passed, and one +felt it was absolutely genuine (nothing commandé), her +people (I always like that phrase so much, "My people," +when she uses it in a speech or proclamation) really delighted +to have her still with them. Another who also +was much cheered was Princess Mary of Teck. They +love her, and she looked so happy and smiling as she acknowledged +the salutation. She has such a gracious +manner always to everyone—never seems bored. However +I must say that for the Prince of Wales; no matter +what the function is (and he must be bored very often) +he never looks it, but always does graciously, and as if +he liked it, whatever he undertakes. There was a very +substantial lunch provided for us at Lady Borthwick's, +and as soon as the cortége disappeared I clamoured for +something to eat, as it was nearly 3.30, and I had had +nothing to eat but my early cup of tea and piece of +toast about 8.30. I went straight back to the Embassy +after luncheon—even then, at 4 o'clock, we had to go +at a foot's pace thro' the crowd—and I didn't stir again +all the afternoon, but I had visitors at tea-time, as of +course the windows and balconies giving on the Park +were most attractive. There were thousands of people +still in the Park, and Royal carriages and escorts coming +and going; music, flags, and a general impression of +movement and colour everywhere.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus292.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887." id="illus292" title="Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887."> </a> + +<p class="center small">Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887.<br > +From a photograph copyright, by Hughes & Mullins, Ryde, England.</p></div> + +<p>In the evening we started at 10 for the Palace, and +they thought there would be such a crowd that we had a +mounted policeman, but we had no trouble. Everyone +made way for the carriage, though, of course, the general +traffic was stopped, and everybody (including our own +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_252" title="pg 252"> </a> +secretaries, who weren't invited to the Palace, merely +the "chefs de mission") in the middle of the streets, looking +at the illuminations. There was great confusion at +the Palace—dinners still going on and servants hurrying +backward and forward with dishes, and piles of plates on +the floor as we passed through the long corridor. We +had to pass through the great hall where the numerous +"suites" were dining—and we naturally hesitated a moment +as they were still at table—but Colonel Byng came +forward and ushered us upstairs, and into one of the +large rooms. There were very few people—the "chefs +de mission," the Nunzio who had come expressly, Lord +and Lady Salisbury, and Lord C., Indian Secretary +(as there were many Indian Princes). We waited nearly +an hour and were then summoned to the ball-room, +where the Queen and Court were assembled. The +Queen was standing, dressed just as she always is for +a Drawing-room, with her small diamond crown and +veil, and again the background of Princes and uniforms +made a striking contrast to the one black-robed +figure. The Prince of Wales stood a little behind, on +her right, also Lord Lathom (Lord Chamberlain). We +all passed before her, two by two, with our husbands, and +she said a few words to each one, but no real conversation; +it was evidently an effort, and we felt we must not +stay a moment longer than necessary. I talked to one +or two people while the others were passing. The German +Crown Princess came over and talked to us. I +asked her if the Queen was very tired. She said not +nearly as much as she expected, it was more the anticipation +of the day that had made her nervous, that she was +very agitated when she started, but that wore off, and +she was not very tired this evening, and very happy, as +were all her children, I said, "You might add her +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_253" title="pg 253"> </a> +people, Madam, for I never saw such a splendid outburst +of loyalty." The Crown Princess herself is perfectly delightful, +so clever and cultivated, and so easy, with such +beautiful, clear, smiling eyes. Do you remember how +much I admired her in Rome the first time I met her? +She is always so kind to us. W. loves to talk to her; +they don't always agree, but she quite understands people +having their own opinions, rather prefers it, I think, as +she must necessarily be so often thrown with people who +never venture to disagree with her. The Crown Prince +of Sweden also came and recalled himself to me, and the +Duc d'Aoste. The Queen remained about an hour; then +the Royal party moved off in procession, and we got our +carriages as quickly as we could. I have written you a +volume (but you must say that doesn't happen often from +my lazy pen, but I felt I must write at once, or I should +never have the courage). Please send the letter to the +family in America. I am dead tired, and my eyes shutting +by themselves.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, June 22, 1887.</p> + +<p>We went this afternoon with the Florians, Comte de +Florian, Secretary of the Embassy, and Comtesse de +Florian, Francis, Baroness Hilda Deichmann and her +children and some of the Embassy men, to the children's +fête in Hyde Park. It was very pretty, and very +well arranged; 30,000 children from all parts of London, +and amusements, food, and jubilee mugs provided +for all. We got there a little after 3, and it was warm +and fatiguing standing and walking about. There were +various refreshment tents for the "quality committee," +etc., and the children got iced cream and cakes to their +hearts' content, also each a jubilee mug with which they +were much pleased. The Prince and Princess of Wales, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_254" title="pg 254"> </a> +with some of the foreign Princes, came about 4 (and +horribly bored the foreigners looked—naturally). We +stood and walked about until 6, when the Queen arrived. +Her procession was rather pretty, just a troop of +mounted police, then the Life Guards, the Indian +contingent, and the Queen in an open carriage with +4 horses, the postilions in black, and two Highland +servants in costume behind. The Crown Princess of +Germany, Princess Christian, and Duke of Edinburgh +in the carriage with her; and the Duke of Cambridge +(Ranger of the Park) riding at the portière. Several +Royal carriages followed, all the women in smart +clothes, and the men in uniform, as the Queen was +to make her formal Jubilee entrée into Windsor on +leaving London after the fête. There was such a press +and jostling when the Queen came—even the women +pushing and struggling to get to the front, that I should +have been nearly crushed with the two children (I had +Hilda and Francis with me) if Prince Hermann of Saxe-Weimar +hadn't recognised me and come to my rescue. +He is very tall and broad, so he made way for me, put the +children in front, and then stood behind me so that no one +could get at me. I must say it was a fine struggle, the +ladies used their arms valiantly. A small slight woman +would have had no show at all. The Queen didn't get +out of her carriage. The Prince stood bareheaded at the +carriage door all the time the Queen was there, and various +people were brought up and presented to her. I +found plenty of people to talk to, among others the German +Crown Prince, who they say is in a very bad way; +he doesn't look changed, perhaps a little thinner, but the +voice has gone. He spoke in a whisper. He noticed the +children, said Francis was very like his father. I told +him Hilda was a little compatriote, and named her to him. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_255" title="pg 255"> </a> +He knows her parents well. The Queen was much +cheered as she drove off; then there were more cheers for +the Prince, who acknowledged them most graciously, as +he does always. We had again rather a struggle to get +through the crowd and across to the Embassy, and then +at 6.30 I had some tea, got into a tea-gown, and refused +to move again. W. tried to entice me to the Foreign +Office where there was a big reception, but I was utterly +incapable of another word (the heat always tries me so); +so he departed sadly, but didn't stay long—merely +showed himself. He said the crowd was awful, and Lord +Cranborne, the son of the house, in a wild state on the +stairs, with his supper list, as he couldn't find half the +people. W. told him not to worry about us, as he was +going home, and I was in bed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus298.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the Uniform Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, London" id="illus298" title="The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the Uniform Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, London"> </a> + +<p class="center small">The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the Uniform +Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, London +June, 1887<br > +From a photograph by Loescher & Petsch Berlin</p></div> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +June 24, 1887.</p> + +<p>Yesterday I had rather a quiet day, I was still so dead +tired after the children's fête. Jean and I drove about +in the afternoon. She wanted to see the "Black +Queen," as the Queen of the Sandwich Islands is called, +and we crossed her once or twice driving in the Park. +It does look funny to see her sitting up in the Royal carriage +with red liveries. We had a beautiful ball last +night, given by Lord and Lady Rosebery at Lansdowne +House for all the Royalties. The House was beautifully +arranged; the ballroom panelled half way up the wall +with red roses and green leaves. I danced a quadrille with +the King of Greece, who is easy and talks a great deal; +he speaks English perfectly well. He asked about the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_256" title="pg 256"> </a> +Schuylers, and spoke most warmly of them—said Schuyler +was one of the few perfectly intelligent men he had +ever met, "knew everything about everything," I must +write it to them. The supper was very well arranged, +small tables of eight or ten. Almost all the Royalties +were there, but not the Hawaiian Queen. I asked our +host why he hadn't invited Queen Kapiolani; but he said +he really couldn't. The ball was small, and Lady Rosebery +left out many of her friends, who naturally were not +pleased. W. actually stayed to supper—I was so surprised, +as he hates it.</p> + +<p class="author">June 24, 1887.</p> + +<p>This afternoon all the swells went to Ranelagh to see +a polo match, but I thought I would reserve myself for +the Palace Ball. The Queen didn't appear, but we had +two others, the Queen of the Belgians, and always Kapiolani. +It was badly managed at first, the result being that +when the Court came we had a crowd of people, officers, +pages, etc., about four deep in front of us, so that we +could neither see nor be seen, nor hardly move. When +the first "quadrille d'honneur" was being danced we saw +nothing, so after a consultation we all left the ball-room. +Then there were various "pourparlers," and they finally +did what they should have done at first, enlarged the +circle, so that we were out of the crowd and near the +Court. There was also a great rush at supper, so that they +had to shut one door for a moment. I didn't see many +people to talk to, but of course it was very difficult. The +Grand Duchess Serge looked beautiful, with splendid emeralds +(she is the daughter of Princess Alice), and the +Duchesse de Braganza (daughter of the Comte de Paris) +was charming, so very high-bred, tall and slight, with a +pretty little dark head. I always find the Princess of +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_257" title="pg 257"> </a> +Wales the most distinguished looking. She stands out +everywhere. Our "Doyenne," Countess Karolyi, was +superb—also with magnificent jewels. The Indian +Princes made a great show, of course, with their silk, +heavily embroidered tuniques, and the quantities of jewels, +but they are not often well cut, nor well set, and they +themselves are certainly off color—they look barbarians, +and have such false faces—I wouldn't trust one of them.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +July 3, 1887.</p> + +<p>It is delicious summer weather now, and yesterday we +went to Buckingham Palace to see the Queen review the +Volunteers. I wore for the first time my Jubilee Medal. +It came Friday with a note from the Duchess of Roxburghe +saying the Queen hoped I would wear it as a +souvenir of her Jubilee. It is a plain little silver medal +about the size of a two-shilling piece, with the Queen's +head on one side and an inscription on the other, fastened +to a bow of blue and white ribbon. We three Ambassadresses +are the only women of the Corps Diplomatique +that have it. All the Queen's household have it, Duchesses +of Bedford, Buccleuch, Roxburghe, etc. The +Princesses, also, of course, but theirs are in gold.</p> + +<p>It was most amusing waiting in the courtyard of the +Palace seeing everyone arrive. All the Royalties took up +their positions at the foot of the Queen's tribune, and +waited for her. Our tribune was on one side of hers, and +one for the Indian Princes opposite. The Volunteers +looked and passed very well; as it was Saturday afternoon +and the shops in London are closed early always +Saturday, all the various butchers, bakers, and candle-stick-makers +could leave their shops and parade, and extremely +well some of them looked; stout, heavy men +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_258" title="pg 258"> </a> +moving quite lightly and at ease in their stiff uniforms. +It was pretty to see the various Princes break away from +their places on the Duke of Cambridge's staff and ride +ahead of the various regiments of which they are honorary +colonels. The Prince of Wales looked well on his +handsome chestnut, which is perfectly trained and steps +beautifully. The Duke of Connaught is a handsome soldier. +We were a long time getting away, but as we had +no dinner-party it wasn't of any consequence. It was +such a pleasure not to put on a low bodice and diamonds. +I always grumble about putting on my diadem—as a rule +I never wear anything in my hair, not even feathers (except +at Court), and the diadem is heavy. After dinner +W. and I went for a drive along the Thames Embankment—our +favourite recreation after a long, hot day. +There are still people about, and a general air of festivity.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +July 21, 1887.</p> + +<p>It is just four years to-day since W. came to London. +We got back from Moscow and the Coronation the 6th, +and almost immediately the Minister offered W. London. +My "beau-frère" said he would give us two years when +we came over. I wonder how much longer it will last. +We had a big dinner to-night, and Lord Lathom, the +Lord Chamberlain, was next to me. He said no one +could imagine how difficult it had been to arrange everything +for the Jubilee ceremonies; that the Queen was +consulted <em>on every point</em>, as she knew more about +etiquette and court ceremonies than anyone else. One +day he had 42 telegrams from her. We told him we +thought everything was well managed (except the ball, +where all the young officers crowded in front of us, and +stepped on our toes, and on our trains). He quite admitted +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_259" title="pg 259"> </a> +that that might have been better done, but also +remarked that he thought the Corps Diplomatique a little +exacting; so, as usual, there are two sides to every +question.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +July 25, 1887.</p> + +<p>We have had a nice outing, Dear, thanks to the Naval +Review; two such beautiful interesting days. I am +burned brown as a berry, but, as the season is over, that +is of no consequence, and I shall have plenty of time at +Bourneville to bleach. We started Saturday at 9.30 for +Portsmouth with the Florians, Waru, and R., Naval Attaché, +in a special train. The harbour looked so pretty +as we came in sight of it. Every description of vessel +(even the "Victory," Nelson's old ship, now a training +ship), and all sorts of ironclads, big steamers, yachts, and +the smallest sort of pleasure-boat, dressed with flags. We +went at once on board the "Helicon," a small despatch +boat, especially destined to the Corps Diplomatique and +distinguished strangers. There were about 150 people +on board, all colleagues, also the Arch Duke Regnier of +Austria, and the two young sons of the Duc d'Aoste with +their suites. Directly after us came two great English +transports painted white, one for the Lords, and one for +the Commons, and all around us a fleet of ordinary +rowing-boats and barges filled with people—quantities +of women and children. We steamed slowly +across the Solent to Osborne to meet the Queen, +and passed close to the great ironclads, which looked +monsters, and formidable ones. We had a handsome +substantial lunch on board, to which we all did +honour. There were not many foreign ships. Our +two looked very well and were much admired, an old +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_260" title="pg 260"> </a> +frigate, the "Iphigénie," now a training ship, with the +midshipmen on board, and the "Élan," a pretty little despatch +boat. There were only two other foreign boats: +a German and a Dutchman. The Italian ships put into +Spithead, and then went off to Dartmouth, no one knows +why exactly. Some say they were not satisfied with their +place (they arrived after the French ships, and would +have been decidedly farther off, and behind ours), others +that they were not in good condition, not smart enough; +however, they were not there and the Italian Princesses +who had expected to sleep on board, and meet their +brother who is on one of the ships, were much disgusted. +As soon as the "Osborne," with the Queen, the Prince of +Wales, and the King of Greece (we didn't understand +the Greek flag at first, as we didn't know the King was +on board), had passed, we followed and went down the +line. It was a beautiful sight, and England could certainly +be proud of her great ironclads filling the harbour, +and showing her strength as a naval power. We went +slowly, and it was amusing to hear the criticisms and +appreciations of all the assembled foreigners on the show—however, +I suppose all ironclads now are pretty much +alike, only England happens to have three times as many +as any of the rest of us. About 6 o'clock there was a +halt. We of course had tea on deck, and suddenly we +saw quantities of steam launches coming across the water +in all directions. They looked like enormous white birds +in the distance. They were almost all white, low in the +water, and going very fast. The captains of all the ships +had been called on board the Queen's yacht to be received +by her. This made a long delay, and our colleagues were +getting impatient, as they foresaw that they would be +very late in getting back to London. We took that opportunity +to ask the Captain of the "Helicon" to bear +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_261" title="pg 261"> </a> +down toward the "Iphigénie," as we were to dine and +sleep on board. We changed our course a little, and in +about 10 minutes two very smart French boats ran alongside, +coming up in grand style. The three English officers +stood on the bridge and helped us off, and I must say +it was all done admirably—not the slightest confusion, +and we were a big party. Our fellow-passengers decidedly +envied us. The Bylandts (Dutch Minister) were +much put out. They had asked the Captain of their ship +to let them dine and sleep on board, but he refused absolutely; +said he had just arrived from a long cruise, and +was not prepared to receive anyone. We got to the +"Iphigénie" in about 15 minutes. The Commandant, +Noccomore, was standing on the bridge. W. got out +first, then T., and as soon as W. put his foot on the +deck, where all the sailors, officers, and midshipmen were +drawn up, there was a salute of drums and clarions (they +couldn't give the regular salute of guns to the Ambassador, +as, when the Queen is in the harbour, no one else +can be saluted). The Commandant gave me his arm, +and we went at once to his quarters (or rather "carré," as +they say on board ship). We passed through a fine room +or hall, the entire width of the frigate, where a good-sized +dinner-table was ready. The Commandant asked when +we would dine; we said in a "quart d'heure," just the time +to wash our faces, which were black with smoke and red +with sun, and he showed W. and me our quarters (his +of course), and most comfortable. The cabin large, +with a wardrobe, and a large "cabinet de toilette," with +English wash-stand, bath-room, etc. For one person it +was perfectly roomy. Of course when a second bed was +put in the "cabinet de toilette" it was a little small. +Mmes. de Florian and Heurtel had the second officer's +cabin, and the men hammocks in some part of the ship.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_262" title="pg 262"> </a></p> + +<p>The dinner was good and handsome. I had the +"Aumônier" on the other side of me. He was intelligent, +ready to talk about anything, and the dinner was +very agreeable. Plenty of talk. W. talked a great deal, +and the naval officers were interesting, as they always +are. They have seen so much, and had such varied experiences. +After dinner we had coffee in the Commandant's +salon, and then went on deck, where we spent a +delightful evening. The sea was perfectly calm, not a +ripple, and lights everywhere—all the ships illuminated +and sending off fireworks at intervals. We could hardly +see our own, but the little "Élan" looked very smart and +natty. We broke up about 11, and I don't know when +I have enjoyed anything so much as that perfectly quiet +summer night on the water; such a rest after the long +day, and early start from London. We promised to be +ready at a quarter to 10 for Mass, and the visit of the +ship. You would have been amused to see how well +Drejet did my service (they asked me if I could do without +my maid for one night, as they really didn't know +what to do with her). He told Adelaïde he could do +everything for me except my hair, and tying my sash, +which seemed to be a serious performance to him, and +really all my dressing things were put out and a "saut de +lit" disposed gracefully over the back of a chair just as +A. always did. I supposed she coached him. I was stirring +early enough the next morning, but I couldn't tie my +sash either, so I wandered out on the deck to have my +early tea, and Countess de Florian helped me to finish +my toilette. We went all over the ship before Mass. +The midshipmen's quarters are small, but of course beautifully +kept, and the young men all looked as smiling +and prosperous as possible, and were much pleased at the +Ambassador's visit. At 10 o'clock we assembled on deck +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_263" title="pg 263"> </a> +for Mass. Part of the deck was covered in with flags, +and as a compliment to my nationality they had put the +"Stars and Stripes" immediately over my head. I was +much pleased, as it is a good many years since I have sat +under the old flag. I suppose I can't say <em>my flag</em> any +more, but I feel it all the same. There were three armchairs +directly in front of the altar—two big ones for +W. and me and a smaller one between for the Commandant.34 + +As soon as we were seated the Abbé came, made a +bow to W. and me, and began his Mass. It was very +impressive—so still, not a sound except the little waves +beating against the side of the ship, and the word of +command for the marines at the raising of the Host, when +there was a fine salute of drums and bugles. We had a +very gay breakfast, the Captain of the "Élan" coming +to join us, and at 1 o'clock we left our hospitable frigate +for the "Élan" which was going to cruise about with us +all the afternoon. They certainly received us most hospitably +and charmingly; I shall often think of those +quiet hours on the deck, and the Mass this morning, which +impressed me very much. We had a lovely afternoon on +the "Élan," practically doing the Review over again, and +going close up to the big ironclads, such ugly, heavy +masses as they seem when one is near them. We crossed +over to Cowes, went alongside of the Prince of Wales' +yacht, but didn't stop. The captain gave us an interesting +account of their reception on the "Osborne." It +seems there was some mistake in the orders brought by +the Aide-de-Camp of the Admiral of the Fleet. The +Commandant of the "Iphigénie" thought he could +take several officers with him, and when he appeared +on the "Osborne" with 5 or 6 officers, the Admiral +was much embarrassed, and didn't know what to do, +as the Queen intended to receive only the Commandants. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_264" title="pg 264"> </a> +However the Prince of Wales, with his never-failing +tact, said he would put it all right, and in a +few moments they were told that the Queen would +be very pleased to receive <em>all</em> the French officers. +They told us they saw a lady in deep mourning, with +perfectly white hair, standing behind the Queen, who +looked so earnestly at the French uniforms, and was +agitated when they passed; they only realised afterward +that it was the Empress.<sup><a href="#fn9" id="r9">[9]</a></sup> I wonder if I shall ever see +her, I would like to so much. We dined on board, +anchored just off Portsmouth, and got back to London +about 11 o'clock, having enjoyed our two days immensely. +It was a beautiful ending to the Jubilee, and +a beautiful sight. The "cadre" was so lovely for all +those big ships. All the line of the Isle of Wight is so +pretty, beautifully green, and the Solent covered with +boats of all descriptions, and plenty of room for all. +Some of the small row-boats seemed dangerously near +the big steamers, but nothing ever happened. When I +get back to Bourneville and take up my quiet life in the +woods, these last days will seem a sort of fairy-tale.</p> + +<div><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus308.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Comtesse de Florian" id="illus308" title="Comtesse de Florian"></a> + +<p class="center small">Comtesse de Florian<br > +From a photograph by Walery, London.</p></div> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, +July 29, 1887.</p> + +<p>We are starting to-morrow. I had a farewell ride this +morning, hardly anyone in the Row, Dandy going beautifully +(you know he is the chestnut I called after the +famous horse in one of Charlie's stories), except a good +kick from time to time, which is a bore, not only for me +(I lost my hat the other day), but for the neighbours. +We dined at Lord A.'s last night, and he gave us a funny +account of his experience on the House of Lords boat. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_265" title="pg 265"> </a> +To begin with he had much difficulty in getting tickets, +and could get none for his daughters, only himself and +Lady A. (and he is Hereditary Lord Chamberlain), and +when he finally did get on the boat he found it crowded +with all sorts of unknown people, very few peers, and +very little food. They were faint with hunger before +the end of the day, so I told him about our handsome +dinner and hospitable reception on our frigate. Bylandt +then told us how badly they fared. They cruised about +for some time in the "Helicon" after we got off, then +finally the passengers begged to be landed. They were at +last deposited at Portsmouth, and then made a rush for +the buffet in the railway station, but that had been completely +"devalisé," there wasn't a crumb, not even a dry +biscuit. Then they were conducted with much pomp to +reserved carriages which were <em>locked</em>, and there they remained +for over an hour, seeing various trains start, and +at last arrived in London at one o'clock in the morning. +Poor Bylandt was much disgusted. We thought a little +of asking to keep the "Élan" for a week, and of doing the +Cowes week, but W. thought on the whole it would be +close quarters, and was not very keen about it. I should +have liked it. We had all the staff who remain to dine +to-night. London is curiously empty—all the chairs +being taken away from the Park, which gives it a decided +air of "fin de saison."</p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate House</span>,<br > +March 2, 1888.</p> + +<p>I have been back about two weeks and am quite settled +again. I have always two or three disagreeable days +when I first come back from France. The coal fires try +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_266" title="pg 266"> </a> +me very much and I think regretfully of the enormous +chimneys at Bourneville and the <em>trees</em> that we burned +there. We have a fog and it is very cold. Francis and +I went to skate yesterday at the Botanical Gardens. The +ice was very bad, there was very little room, and swarms +of children struggling along on their little skates, but the +outing was pleasant. I also went one day with a friend +to Wimbledon, and that was better. We drove down +and had a pleasant afternoon, but the ice was soft, and +it was the end. Really though, in March in England, +one could hardly expect to skate.</p> + +<p class="author">March 8th.</p> + +<p>Hilda came in this morning with very bad news of the +German Emperor. The Crown Prince was to start from +the Riviera, and I am afraid he is in a bad way too. He +looked such a magnificent man at the Jubilee Fêtes. Of +course even then his voice and colour showed that something +was wrong, but it was difficult to believe that a +mortal disease was mining his strength. We have had +telegrams all the afternoon, and at 5 they told us the +Emperor was dead. We sent immediately to Mrs. Jeune, +where we were engaged to dine to meet Prince and +Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein, to know if her +dinner was put off; but the answer came back that the +dinner was to take place. We went of course, and found +Princess Christian and Lady Salisbury. Prince Christian, +as a German Prince and a relation of the German +Royal Family, did not come; neither did Lord Salisbury, +who had received a telegram from Berlin announcing the +Emperor's death. The Princess looked anxious and was +evidently very much worried at the journey of the Crown +Prince in such weather, in his delicate state. She left almost +instantly after dinner. The Drawing-room is postponed. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_267" title="pg 267"> </a> +The Crown Prince starts to-morrow morning. +All eyes are upon him, and will follow his journey with +hopes and fears.</p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, March 18th.</p> + +<p>We all went to the funeral service for the German Emperor +this morning in the German Lutheran Chapel close +to Marlborough House. I was quite correct this time, +and was swathed in crêpe; Mrs. Lecky has lent me her +long crêpe veil, which will serve again probably, as everyone +seems to think the Emperor Frederick is doomed. All +the men were in uniform with crêpe on their sleeves and +sword hilts (the Germans with their helmets covered with +crêpe) and the women in woollen dresses with crêpe veils. +Almost all the Princesses were there (not the Princess of +Wales), but the Princes were in Berlin. The service was +long, and curiously enough was <em>not</em> the Lutheran service, +but the regular Church of England service translated into +German. It was done, it seems, for George II, who was +obliged to follow the Church of England service, and +who didn't understand a <em>word</em> of English. There was +much chanting, two addresses, and a sermon.</p> + +<p>Everyone of course is talking and speculating over +what will happen in Germany. All the doctors say the +Emperor Frederick is near his end. No one seems to +know exactly what will be the attitude of the present +Crown Prince. He is young, intelligent, with an iron +will; all good qualities in a sovereign, but he has little +experience and an absolute confidence in his own judgment.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, April 25, 1888.</p> + +<p>We hear a great deal now here about Boulanger, and +there seems to be the most extraordinary "engouement" +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_268" title="pg 268"> </a> +for him here as well as in France. Roustan, the Naval +Attaché, has just come back from Paris and says the state +of things is very serious, people have lost their heads +over Boulanger. He (R.) thinks it is the most serious +crisis France has passed through since the Commune. +W. is less blue—he knows the famous General very little, +but doesn't think there is much character or backbone +there.</p> + +<p>We had a big dinner the other night at Lord Rothschild's, +and Lord Hartington, a well-known political and +social figure, sat between me and the Princesse de Wagram. +He naturally asked us, the only two Frenchwomen +at table, what we thought of Boulanger. The Princess +spoke most enthusiastically of him. The one man in +France who could regenerate the country, and who would +be supported by all parties. I said exactly the contrary, +and that I thought his popularity and power very much +exaggerated. Lord Hartington was rather amused at +the two opinions so absolutely at variance.</p> + +<p>The Deichmanns came to see us the other day, just +back from Berlin, and in despair over the Emperor. +Deichmann said he came into the room with the same +straight, soldierly bearing he had always had, and except +that he was thinner, looked unchanged; but he +couldn't speak, and his friends fear the worst. He is +worried too over the friction between the Empress and +Bismarck—too such strong wills in conflict.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, +April 26, 1888.</p> + +<p>I wonder if you are as cold as I am to-day. I have +been driving about shivering in the open carriage and my +seal-skin felt like a foulard. I think I got cold last night. +We had a pleasant dinner at Lord Knutsford's. I had +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_269" title="pg 269"> </a> +Count Kufstein next to me. He was for years in Paris +at the Austrian Embassy just when I was first married +and making my début in the official world. He is here +now for the sugar conference, and we were delighted to +go back to old times, as he knows everybody in Paris of +all kinds: Imperialists, Royalists, and Republicans. It +wasn't always easy for a foreigner to get along and not +offend somebody. On our way home W. suggested that +we should go in for a moment to the W. H. Smiths' who +had a big political reception. In a weak moment I +agreed. It is not really necessary to go to those big +parties—one can be written down in the book by one of +the secretaries, or give the names to the lady of the +<em>Morning Post</em> who sits with her hat and coat behind +the door, and puts down as many names as she can manage. +I should think she would have perpetual rheumatism, +as the hall door is open and the draught something +awful. The moment I set my foot in the hall my heart +sank, such a crowd on the stairs, I should think all the +House of Commons and all their female relations. There +was a double current going and coming, and I was thankful +not to have my dress torn to bits. We met Tom +Leigh coming down. He said he had been 15 minutes +on the same step. However we did manage to get upstairs—tried +to find either host or hostess, but they had +evidently left the door—so after struggling through one +or two rooms packed tight with people I discovered a +high wooden stool behind one of the doors which had +evidently been used for lighting the candles and been +forgotten, so I seated myself on that and told W. I +would wait for him there, as he thought he would +try and find some one of the family. I sat there +some little time rather interested in the stream of +perfectly unknown faces which passed until I was +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_270" title="pg 270"> </a> +rescued by Correa, the Brazilian Minister, who couldn't +believe that it was really the French Ambassadress +sitting alone on a three-legged stool behind the door. +W. came back in about a quarter of an hour not +having seen any one he knew, and then we started down +the staircase where we had the same struggle, and the +cold air blowing in upon my bare shoulders. I was cross +when I got home—however I suppose exactly the same +thing happens when we have a big reception, as the Embassy +is not nearly large enough. The other night when +the Duke of Cambridge dined with us we had a party +afterward. W. went down to the door with him and +never got up again, there was such a crowd on the stairs.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, May 19, 1888.</p> + +<p>The season is animated enough and we are out every +night (not all day, as so many people are, as we refuse +all lunches and teas). Our music the other evening with +Wolff, the young Dutch violinist, and Mdme. Kleeberg, +was nice. We had invited only about 50 people, all musical. +Everyone could sit down (which the men appreciated, +as they usually <em>stand</em> in the doorway all through +the concert), and also we were not obliged to have those +rows of gilt chairs which grate so on my nerves. I know +the women hate it so when they are all seated in rows +very close to each other and not a man anywhere near. +Wolff played divinely, with so much tone and sentiment. +He had a great success. Mdme. Kleeberg always plays +beautifully. She is well known here and much liked. It +was the first time Wolff had played in London, and he +was a little nervous.</p> + +<p>Last night we dined with Lady Delawarr to meet +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_271" title="pg 271"> </a> +Princess Louise and Lord Lorne. The Princess is +charming; a pretty, graceful figure and attractive manner, +absolutely what the Italians would call "simpatica." +Lord Lorne took me to dinner, and I found him most +entertaining and original. He talked a great deal about +Canada and America, and certainly knows and appreciates +"the States." He said if he hadn't been born the eldest +son of an English Duke he would certainly emigrate to +the West of America and pitch his tent there.</p> + +<p>There was a reception and music in the evening, Wolff +playing beautifully, but, alas! no one listening. Lady +Borthwick (who is a good musician) and I moved into +the large drawing-room at his request when he began to +play, and I really don't think anyone else scarcely listened, +and certainly no one realised when, after playing a few +moments under great difficulty (people coming and going +and talking all the time), he calmly laid his violin on the +piano and stopped. He came up to me to explain, what +I quite understood, that he could hear neither his own +violin nor the accompaniment, and I could not urge him +to continue. It is very hard on the artists, an evening +like that. If they don't play well, everyone criticises; and +if they stop altogether, people think it is high-handed, +and criticise equally. I have learnt now by experience +and never invite <em>many</em> people when I have music.</p> + +<p class="author">May 22, 1888.</p> + +<p>We had a pleasant evening last night at Sir Arthur +Sullivan's who had a dinner for the Prince of Wales and +the Duke and Duchess Paul of Mecklenburg. There +were all kinds of artists—singing, reciting, and dancing. +An American girl, with a very pretty voice, sang very +well, and Letty Lind was charming. The Duchess Paul +looked very pretty and chic, and was most amiable. The +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_272" title="pg 272"> </a> +Prince is so nice to artists—always a gracious word and +smile. Sullivan is an excellent host, and keeps everything +going. Just as we arrived the electric light went +out. I couldn't imagine why the house looked so dark +as we drove up, for I knew the Prince was dining, and +there was the red carpet which always indicates Royalty, +so there could be no mistake, but the hall-door was open +and lamps and candles being brought in from all quarters. +We took off our cloaks in the dark, but in a very few +minutes things were put right, and the rooms brilliantly +illuminated. W. never remains long on these occasions, +but I stayed until the end, even for supper, which was +very gay.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, May 24, 1888.</p> + +<p>My small musical tea for the Duchess Paul was very +successful I think yesterday. I could not have Johannes +Wolff, the violinist, which I regretted extremely. He +plays quite beautifully, with so much "entrain" and sentiment. +I think I have already written to you about him, +he is a Dutchman who was sent to me by Mdme. de Zuylen +(you remember Zuylen who was so long Dutch Minister +in Paris). It was a little discouraging at first, there +is such a tremendous concurrence in London, and English +people like to hear the same artists, whom they know +well; Joachim, Sarasate, and Mdme. Neruda have it all +their own way. However, I made a small party for him, +all musical people, Lady Borthwick, Mrs. Ronalds, Tosti, +Lord Lathom, etc., and he conquered his public at once. +It was splendid playing and a style quite his own. We +replaced him by Mdme. Le Valloit, who plays very well; +and had besides Picolellis (from Florence), who plays +well (cello), and Carpe, the Italian baritone who has a +big voice and sings in the Italian style. The audience +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_273" title="pg 273"> </a> +listened pretty well at first, then came tea and the clatter +of tea-cups in the blue room where all the jeunesse had +congregated, talking and laughing and having their tea +with a fine unconsciousness of the music going on in the +next room. They are really very tiresome. That reminds +me of Grieg who was very "difficile," and who +couldn't stand a sound when he was playing. He and his +wife came to the Embassy one night and played and sang +quite charmingly, and everybody was delighted. Quite +at the last moment one of the Royalties talked a little +while he was playing, and I saw the moment when he +would get up from the piano. However, Wolff and I between +us managed to calm him. When it was over I told +him what a success he had had—that the Prince had enjoyed +his playing so much, to which he replied—"Ja, der +hat es laut gesagt."</p> + +<p>Duchess Paul was very amiable, stayed until after 7 +and seemed to enjoy it; at least she listened and spoke +very nicely to the artists afterward. I had just time to +dress for a dinner at the Austrian Embassy.</p> + +<p class="author">May 26, 1888.</p> + +<p>We dined to-night with our cousins the Ivor Herberts, +a dinner for the Duke and Duchess Paul of Mecklenburg. +We were asked for 8.15, and they never came until 9, +looking quite unconcerned. I can't imagine how the +cooks manage. Juteau tears his hair when we are so late, +but he is getting accustomed to English hours now, and +doesn't get ready himself until a quarter of an hour after +the time fixed. We were a perfect bore to all our friends +at first with our French punctuality, and arrived once or +twice before the master of the house. W. consulted Lord +Granville, who told him his rule was to leave his house +<em>at the hour named for the dinner</em>; but as we dine sometimes +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_274" title="pg 274"> </a> +around the corner, and sometimes at Kensington that is +not always practical. People in Paris are very punctual +and never wait more than a quarter of an hour for anyone. +I remember quite well when I was first married, and my +husband was a Cabinet Minister, being late for dinner at +Comte Paul de Ségur's. When we arrived they were at +table. Among the guests was the Duc d'Audifret-Pasquier, +President of the Senate—he had arrived in time +and they wouldn't keep him waiting more than the "quart +d'heure de grâce." I was very much surprised, as after +all my husband was a personage, but I must say I think +the rule is a good one. I was next to the Duke and found +him very pleasant. He is a brother of the Grand Duchess +Wladimir, and he talked about the Coronation, and +some of the curious, half barbaric ceremonies. He had +been lunching at Sheen with the Comte de Paris, and was +much impressed with the dull, sad look of the place. It +does look gloomy, enclosed in high walls, such a contrast +to Eu and the beautiful, bright sunny homes where the +Orléans Princes spent their childish years.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>, May 30th.</p> + +<p>To-night we have a quiet evening, and are glad to have +a chance to talk over Boulanger (who is coming here) +and various troublesome questions. We dined last night +with the Duchess of Westminster to meet Princess Mary +and the Duke of Teck. The dinner was handsome and +pleasant, and there was a small ball afterward. They +danced in the picture gallery, a beautiful, large room, +where the dresses and jewels showed to great advantage. +We didn't stay very late as W. never dances, not even +the regulation "Quadrille d'Honneur" at Court. He and +Karolyi are the only diplomatists who never dance.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_275" title="pg 275"> </a></p> + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, June 5, 1888.</p> + +<p>Yesterday was a beautiful summer day, the ideal Sunday +of Bishop Keble—"The bridal of the earth and sky." +We walked through the "Church Parade" coming back +from Westminster. There were quantities of pretty girls +dotted about the Park, looking so fresh and cool in their +white dresses. I had various visits. Sunday is the <em>man's</em> +day in London, and the afternoon is generally interesting. +The Spanish Ambassador came in. He had been lunching +at Sheen with the Comte de Paris, and told me that +the Prince asked him if he had seen his Collègue de +France lately, and what <em>he</em> thought of the state of things +in France, and particularly what he thought of Boulanger. +I told him I didn't think the French Ambassador shared +the Comte de Paris' enthusiasm for that hero, but that +<em>he</em> had better ask him.</p> + +<p>About 5.30 W. and I started for White Lodge, Richmond +Park, to dine with Princess Mary and the Duke +of Teck. We found quite a party assembled in the garden +around a tea-table, the Princess making the tea +herself, Princess May and some of the young ones helping. +The talk was pleasant and easy, Princess Mary is +a charming hostess and <em>likes</em> to talk (which is certainly +not the case with all English women). She is very stout, +but has a beautiful head and fine presence. Tosti and +Picolellis dined, and played divinely after dinner. The +evening was enchanting. We all sat in the big drawing-room +opening on the garden. There was not much light, +the moon shining through the trees, and the two artists +playing as if inspired anything anyone asked for, from +a Spohr sonata to an Italian canzonetta. I thought we +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_276" title="pg 276"> </a> +should stay there all night—no one wanted to go home. +The drive home was lovely, the London streets are so +quiet Sunday night.</p> + +<p class="author">June 6th.</p> + +<p>This morning was the great meet of the coaches, and +our terrace of course is in great request as it gives directly +on the Park. It is always a pretty sight as everyone +turns out. Lord Fife had the Prince of Wales with +him, and the Princess was driving about with her three +daughters in a victoria. The news of the German Emperor +is very bad.</p> + +<p class="author">June 10th.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we had lovely music at Frank +Schuster's. Both Wolff and Hollman played divinely. +They are great rivals, both Dutchmen, and both great +favourites (Hollman is 'cello). A trio with them and +Mdme. Kleeberg at the piano is absolutely perfect.</p> + +<p>Our dinner at the Monks' was pleasant. I had Sir +Rivers Wilson next to me, and he is a charming neighbour, +has been everywhere, knows everybody, and talks +easily without any pose. There was a concert in the +evening—very good—Trebelli, Lloyd, Nordica, etc. I +made acquaintance with Nordica, who is an American, +Miss Norton, from Boston I think. She sings beautifully. +I said to her (they were all talking hard between +the songs), "What a noise! Can you ever begin?" "Oh, +certainly," she said, "I shall make much more noise than +they do," and she was quite right. Her voice rang +through the room. One of her songs was Delibes' +"Filles de Cadiz," which she sang splendidly.</p> + +<p class="author">June 12th.</p> + +<p>This afternoon we have been sight-seeing. Jean came +to breakfast, and we started off with Jusserand and St. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_277" title="pg 277"> </a> +Genys to see the Panorama of Niagara, which they say +is extremely well done. I wanted the foreigners to have +an idea of our great Falls, for I think in their hearts they +were rather disposed to agree with a statement in one of +the Swiss guide-books in speaking of the falls of the +Rhine at Schaffhausen, "generally supposed to surpass +the celebrated Falls of Niagara in America." However +they were agreeably disappointed and were much pleased +and interested. The Panorama is really very good. It +is so many years since I have seen Niagara that I had +forgotten how magnificent the Horse Shoe Fall is, and I +almost expected to hear the roar of the cataract, and to +see the little Indian boy selling moccasins and maple +sugar. I wonder if I would like maple sugar now. One +of my French friends, Mdme. Casimir Perier, to whom +I offered as a great treat some American home-made gingerbread, +could hardly swallow it, and assured me that +I couldn't eat it either if it had not been a "souvenir d'enfance." +On leaving Niagara we went to the Aquarium +to see a dog show. There were some fine specimens, +but I didn't think any of the fox terriers as good as my +Boniface. We also saw a swimming match, young ladies +disporting themselves in the water in most wonderful +costumes. Then to change our ideas we went into Westminster +Abbey, just getting there for the end of the afternoon +service. We heard the anthem, which was beautiful. +It is such a good choir—some of the boys' voices +divine, and they look like such little angels in their white +surplices. A good many people were waiting to go +round the Abbey at the end of the service, and we had +some difficulty in getting away from the various guides +who haunt the church and fall upon strangers. We +wandered about with Jusserand for our cicerone. He +knows everything about everything, and we had an interesting +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_278" title="pg 278"> </a> +hour. Some of the old tombs are so curious. +We got back to the Embassy for tea, having enjoyed ourselves +immensely. I think in her heart Jean was rather +shocked at the Aquarium performance—didn't think it +was exactly the place for me—that was the reason I liked +it, I suppose, I am so often now in the place where I +ought to be.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +June 12, 1888.</p> + +<p>It is beautiful again to-day. We had a nice canter +in the Row. Everyone was talking about the German +Emperor, and speculating over the future. There is a +curious mistrust of the young Prince. No one seems +to know exactly what he will do, and what will be his +attitude toward England. This afternoon we have been +out to Chiswick with the Florians, and Francis, to +launch a torpilleur built for the French Navy by +Thornycroft. We found Thornycroft and some of his +friends waiting for us at the entrance of the dockyard. +They took us to a platform covered with red cloth erected +quite close to the boat—which was prettily dressed with +flags—the men said her shape was wonderful (for a torpilleur, +which never can be graceful). They gave me a +bottle of champagne, and told me what to do. I flung +the bottle as hard as I could against the stern of the boat, +saying "Success to the 'Coureur.'" It broke into a thousand +pieces, the champagne spattering all over my dress. +We then adjourned to a summer-house overlooking the +river for tea, and afterward went over the boat. There +are accommodations (such as they are) for two officers +and nine men, but it must be most uncomfortable, particularly +in rough weather. However, she was built for +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_279" title="pg 279"> </a> +speed, Thornycroft told us, and everything was suppressed +that was not absolutely necessary. I hope she +will make a good record.</p> + +<p class="author">June 13th.</p> + +<p>Yesterday I decided quite suddenly to go to Ascot. It +was a beautiful day, not too hot, and the Florians were +quite ready to go with me. W. hates races and a long +day in the country. We got down all right, hearing +vague rumours on the way about the Emperor's death, +but the Royal box was open, prepared evidently for the +Princes, and there were quantities of people on the lawn. +We were standing near the gate waiting to see the procession +appear, when suddenly Lord Coventry, Master +of the Buckhounds, rode in alone. Instantly everyone +said there must be bad news from the German Emperor +(which was true). The Prince of Wales had a telegram, +just as he was getting into his carriage, from the Queen, +to say the news was very bad, and none of them must go +to the races. Very soon some of the gentlemen of the +Prince's party arrived, among others Karolyi, who said +the Emperor was dying—dead probably at that moment. +The Prince's servants and lunch were sent back as soon +as possible (of course all their provisions and servants +had been sent to Ascot, as they have a big lunch party +there every day), so we all lunched with Lord Coventry. +I went up after lunch to the top of the stand to +see the race, and had the satisfaction of seeing the French +horse come in an <em>easy</em> last.</p> + +<p>We went to tea with Lady Diana Huddleston, who has +a pretty cottage close to the course, and sat under the +trees some time. I had refused a dinner in London, and +was in no hurry to get back. We quite expected to see +the Emperor's death in the evening papers, but he seems +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_280" title="pg 280"> </a> +to have rallied again a little. Poor man, how terrible it +is the way he fights for his life—and he has known from +the first, they say, that there was no hope. I am so +sorry for her—she is so clever, so ambitious, and would +have done so much for Germany.</p> + + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Woburn Abbey</span>,<br > +June 15, 1888.</p> + +<p>We arrived here yesterday for tea. It had rained +hard in the morning. W. and I were riding and were +taking our usual quick canter at the far end of the Park +(Marble Arch) when the storm began. We got home +as fast as we could, but were dripping, both of us. The +water poured off my hat like a shower-bath when I +took it off. We had just time to get dry and dress before +starting for the station where we found the Duke's +<sup><a href="#fn10" id="r10">[10]</a></sup> +régisseur waiting for us with a "wagon-salon." We +had a short railway journey through pretty English +village country; then a drive of half an hour brought +us here. The Park is enormous, fine trees and beautifully +green—such a rest after London smoke. The +house is very large, with a great square court and +corridors running all around it filled with family and +historical pictures. The Duchess and her daughters +were waiting for us in the morning room. We had +tea and almost immediately went upstairs, as it was +late. I have a charming big room with such views +over the Park. There are always in these large houses +lovely bits of old furniture, pictures, old china, etc. +The dinner was handsome—quantities of gold and silver +plate, and the table covered with azaleas. The Duke +talked a great deal. He speaks French and German like +a native (was brought up in Germany) and has the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_281" title="pg 281"> </a> +courteous, dignified manner of the old-fashioned English +gentleman—a little stiff perhaps (they say people, even +his children, are afraid of him), but I find him most attractive, +particularly in these days when people haven't +time apparently to be polite. The house party is small—Lord +Tavistock, son of the house, with his handsome +wife, Lady Ampthill, widow of Lord Ampthill (whom +you will remember well as Odo Russell in Rome, and who +was for years British Ambassador in Berlin). We saw +him there when we stopped three or four days on our +way to Moscow for the Coronation. They loved him in +Berlin, just as they did in Rome. Do you remember how +much put out all the women were there when his engagement +was announced? Lady Ampthill looks sad, and is +of course most anxious about the Emperor Frederick, and +eager for news, she knew him and the Empress so well +at Berlin. There is also Böhm, the sculptor, and one or +two young men. The evening was short, everyone +talking of course about the Emperor. The Duke says his +death will be an immense loss to the whole world. The +ladies came upstairs about 10.30—the men went to the +smoking-room. This morning it is showery—I didn't +go down to breakfast, but about 12.30 I found my way +to the drawing-room, and the Duchess showed me the +house before lunch. It would take weeks to see all that +is in it. The gallery that runs round the court is filled +with portraits of Russells of every degree, also various +Kings and Queens of England. There are splendid pictures +all over the house—one drawing-room absolutely +panelled with Canalettos. When we had been over the +house we went into the garden to dedicate a fountain +which Böhm had made, and also to see a full length +statue of the Duchess which he had also just completed +for the garden. I am very glad to know Böhm. He is +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_282" title="pg 282"> </a> +intelligent and sympathetic, original too. He and W. +had a long talk last night in the "fumoir," and it seems +he was much struck with W. and said afterward to the +Duke "Der weiss alles."</p> + +<p>After lunch, just as we were starting to have tea at +Ampthill, we received two telegrams—one from the Embassy, +and one from Deichmann—telling of the Emperor's +death at 11 this morning—so that long struggle is +over. We drove over to Ampthill, and walked about in +the garden with umbrellas and waterproofs, but of course +the place looked triste and dark as there are great trees +close to the house. There was a very good picture of +Lord Ampthill in one of the drawing-rooms, and souvenirs +of their diplomatic life in every direction; signed +photographs of all sorts of distinguished people—snuff-boxes, +medals, etc.</p> + +<p class="author">June 16th.</p> + +<p>It is still grey and damp, but no rain. The Duchess +took us for a beautiful <em>grass</em> drive through miles of +rhododendrons, quite enchanting—I have never seen +anything like it;—but again the want of sunlight made +a great difference. The contrast between the deep green +of the lawn and the extraordinary amount and variety +of colour was most striking. We left about 3—immediately +after lunch. I had quite a talk with the Duke +while we were waiting for the carriage. He told me he +had been so pleased to have had W. at his house and to +hear him talk. He said—"I am not a Republican, but +I must say that so long as the Republic finds men like +him to serve her, there can be nothing better for France."</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, June 24th.</p> + +<p>We all went to the funeral service for the Emperor +Frederick this morning, all of us smothered in crêpe with +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_283" title="pg 283"> </a> +long crêpe veils. It was precisely the same service over +again as we had had for the old Emperor a few months +ago. The heat was something awful—so many people—and +it was very long. I dined in the evening at Hurlingham +with Sir Roderick Cameron, and that was nice; deliciously +cool, lights all about the place, and the Hungarian +band playing.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +July 12, 1888.</p> + +<p>Last night I had a novel and most amusing experience. +I went with Count and Countess de Florian (they are always +ready to do anything I want) to dine at the Mansion +House. W. could not go. As soon as we arrived they +roared out my name, or rather my official title—"Her Excellency +the French Ambassadress," and I walked alone +(the Florians a little behind) up the great hall lined with +people to where the Lord Mayor was standing, with his +robes, chains, etc., a mace-bearer on one side, and a sort +of trumpeter on the other. He stood quite still until I +got close to him, then shook hands and asked my permission +to remove his robes (ermine). We then went in +to dinner. The Lord Mayor and his wife sat side by +side, and I was on his right. The dinner was fairly good +(a regular banquet, 70 or 80 people), with music and +speeches. I rather like the ceremony of the "loving cup." +The cup was a handsome heavy gold tankard, with +handles and a cover, and was brought first to the Lord +Mayor. He rose—I did the same, and he asked me to +take off the cover, which I did, and held it while he drank. +Then he wiped the edge with his napkin, and passed it to +me. The man next to me got up and held the cover +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_284" title="pg 284"> </a> +while I drank. (The cup is very heavy and I had to +take it with both hands.) The same ceremony was repeated +all around the enormous table, and it was a pretty +and curious sight to see a couple always standing—the +women in full dress and jewels standing out well between +the black coats of the men. It seems it is a very +old custom, a remnant of rough feudal times, when the +man drinking was obliged to have a friend standing next +to him, to ward off a possible blow, his hands being occupied. +I don't know what we drank—I should think a +sort of hot spiced wine. Of course one just touches the +edge of the cup. A wonderful man, in old-fashioned +garb and a stentorian voice, stood always behind the Lord +Mayor's chair, and called out all the names, toasts, etc. +We went in afterward to Mrs. Oppenheim, who had a +musical party—all the pretty women, and Mme. Nordica +singing beautifully, with the orchestra of the Opera.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +July 14, 1888.</p> + +<p>I am rather tired to-night, but I think you must hear +about the comédie while it is still fresh in my mind. It +really went very well. We arranged a sort of rampe +with flowers and ribbons (Thénard's suggestion) at the +end of the ball-room, and made up the background with +screens, curtains, etc. The little troupe had been well +drilled by Thénard, who took a great deal of trouble, not +only with their diction, but with their movements. At +first they were always standing in a heap and tumbling +over each other, or insisting upon turning their backs to +the audience. "Ce n'est pas bien joli, ce que vous montrez +au public, mes enfants," says Thénard. Here is the +programme:—</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_285" title="pg 285"> </a></p> + +<h2>A FRENCH COMEDY</h2> + +<h2>AMBASSADE DE FRANCE À LONDRES</h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Samedi</span>, 14 <span class="smcap">Juillet</span>, 1888</h3> +<hr> +<h2>L'EDUCATION À LA MODE</h2> + +<h4>PAR BERQUIN</h4> + +<table style="width:75%; margin:auto"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">MADAME VERTEUIL</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Mlle. Béatrice de Bunsen</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">MADAME BEAUMONT</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Mlle. de Langhe</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">LÉONORA, sa nièce</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Lady Mary Pepys</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">DIDIER, son neveu <br >M. DUPAS, Maître de danse</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">M. Francis Waddington</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">TRUETTE, soubrette</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Mlle. Cameron</span></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p>I was very proud of my little troupe. Béatrice looked +very well and stately in powder, black satin, and lace. +Mile. de Langhe and Daisy very well got up, and the two +children charming. Lady Mary Pepys was too sweet, +and they danced their minuet perfectly. There were roars +of laughter when Francis appeared as "Maître de +Danse" with a white wig and his violin. The children +were not at all shy, enjoyed themselves immensely. B. +was a little "émue" at first when she saw how many +people there were, but it didn't last and she was excellent, +so perfectly correct, and unfrivolous, and boring. +Francis said his little poetry, "Le bon Gîte" of Déroulède, +quite prettily. W. was rather surprised and quite pleased, +and Thénard beamed, as she had coached him. She recites +some of those "Chants du Soldat" of Déroulède's +divinely. It is a perfect treat to hear her recite in her beautiful +rich voice "Le Petit Clairon," also "La Fiancée du +Timbalier," with an accompaniment of soft music.</p> + +<p>All the children (as we had invited Francis's young +friends to see the performance) had tea together afterward, +and they wound up with a dance. The men of the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_286" title="pg 286"> </a> +Embassy were much pleased, particularly Jusserand, who +is rather "difficile." They complimented B. very much; +said she spoke so distinctly and with very little accent. It +was rather trying for her to play before all the Embassy +and an ex-member of the Comédie Française. Francis's +blue velvet coat and lace ruffles were very becoming to +him. Wolff told him how to hold his violin, I wish you +could have seen it. It was much prettier than the original +little play at Bourneville, when we executed as well +as we could a menuet.</p> + +<p>We had a very select public, among others Wyndham +of the Criterion, who is an interesting man and a +charming actor. When you come over I will take you +to see his David Garrick, which I consider a perfect +bit of acting. I wrote and asked him to "assister aux +débuts d'un jeune collaborateur." The funny formal +old-fashioned Berquin phrases amused him. He knows +French well.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, August.</p> + +<p>We have decided to go to Scotland with Sir Roderick +Cameron and his family, and are starting in a day or +two. London is dull and empty, has suddenly become +a deserted city. Even the shops are empty, and the +Park a wilderness. All our colleagues have gone. I +think W. is the only Ambassador in London, and he +wants to get off to France and have a few days on the +Aisne before he goes to the Conseil Général. We means +Francis and me for Scotland.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Inveraylort</span>,<br > +August 17, 1888.</p> + +<p>I will try and give you an account of our journey, Dear. +We arrived in this most lovely place for late dinner yesterday, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_287" title="pg 287"> </a> +and went almost at once to bed, having begun our +day at 7 o'clock. We left London Tuesday morning by +the Flying Scotchman, and a tremendous pace we came. +There were quantities of people at the station, all going +apparently by our train—children, dogs, guns, fishing +rods, provision baskets, tall footmen racing after distracted +French maids, and piles of luggage. We had our +saloon carriage reserved (as we were a fair party—C., +the four girls, Duncan, a friend Miss W., Francis and +I and two or three maids). We had also a fair amount +of baskets, shawls, cushions, etc. It was a lovely morning, +not too warm, and I think W., who came down to +the station to see us off, was half sorry he was not +going too.</p> + +<p>We stopped for luncheon at York, and got to Edinburgh +at 6.30. The pace was frightful, but we went so +smoothly that one hardly realised the speed. We went +straight to the hotel to see our rooms and order dinner, +and then went out for a walk. The streets were +crowded; omnibuses and cabs with luggage in every direction. +The old town and castle looked most picturesque +in the soft summer light. Daisy and I went out +again after dinner, and after loitering a little near the +hotel we saw a tramcar, asked where it went, and +mounted on the top, telling the man we would go as far +as we could, and then come back. It was a beautiful +moonlight night, and we were very cool and comfortable +perched on the top of the car. When the man came to +get the money for the places I discovered that I had no +change—merely a sovereign. The old gentleman, a tall, +white-bearded Scotchman, grumbled a good deal, and +made various uncomplimentary remarks to himself in a +low tone. However after some little time he appeared +with a handful of silver. I took the money mechanically +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_288" title="pg 288"> </a> +and began to stuff it into my portemonnaie, as he looked +at me severely and said—"First count your money to see +that it is right, and then give me what you owe for your +places."</p> + +<p>We were up early the next morning—breakfasted at 9 +o'clock as we wanted to see a little of Edinburgh before +starting for Oban at 12 o'clock. It was an enchanting +morning, not too warm, and we went first to the Castle. +There is not much to see inside—always a beautiful view +of sea and hills. There is a chapel and some old rooms +which various Kings and Queens of Scotland have inhabited +at various times. A company of Highlanders in +Cameron plaids were being exercised in the courtyard, +and a fine stalwart set of men they were.</p> + +<p>From there we drove through some of the old streets +(Cannongate, etc.) to Holyrood, which was most interesting. +The children of course were most anxious to see +the spot where Rizzio was murdered, and the blood-stains +on the floor, but they have disappeared years ago. We +were delighted with the pictures. There are quantities +of course of Mary, Queen of Scots—one large portrait +with that beautiful, sad Stuart face—as if they all foresaw +their destinies. I had forgotten how small and low +the rooms are. In these luxurious days no ordinary lady +would be satisfied with Queen Mary's bedroom and boudoir; +and the servants, accustomed to be quite as comfortable +as their masters, would give warning at once. +We drove straight from the Palace to the station, where +our carriage was waiting for us. All our wraps, +cushions, etc., neatly arranged; and started for Oban, +a most lovely journey, particularly all about Loch Awe. +We got to Oban about 7, and I shall often think of that +lovely evening. The harbour filled with yachts and sail-boats +of all kinds—the water blue and dancing, and the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_289" title="pg 289"> </a>g +most divine soft pink lights on the hills, a little like what +we used to love at Capri and Ischia—quite beautiful. +Daisy and I did some shopping before dinner—bought +clean collars for the children, who were decidedly the +worse for the two days' journey, and we also interviewed +the well-known Ewan at the tartan shop with a view +to kilted skirts. D. found their tartan at once of course +as there are so many Camerons—ours was rather more +difficult as there are few <em>Chisholms</em> left (my Mother-in-law +was born Chisholm) and the authorities in London +told us we could certainly wear the family plaid. The +shop people promised to get it for me. The man was +much interested in the skirt for Miss W. Being an +American there was no family tartan to be looked up, and +she couldn't quite make up her mind. However he came +to the rescue, telling her that "all the <em>American</em> ladies +take the Royal Stuart, Miss." We had an excellent dinner +at the very small hotel where we were obliged to go—all +the swell hotels were full—and there are quantities of +people in the streets, and boats coming and going from +the yachts. The Englishwomen all look so nice in their +yachting dresses, almost all of dark blue serge and a sailor +hat or regular yachting cap. The cap is rather trying, +but the young and pretty women look charming in it. +Some of the trippers and their ladies are wonderful to behold. +We stood near a couple who were just starting +for Skye on one of the steamers. The man was in a +wonderful checked suit, and the lady in a brilliant red and +green tartan (not unlike the Chisholm), on her head was +a Scotch stalking cap, which was not becoming to a red, +round face. However <em>she</em> was satisfied and so was her +companion, who looked at her most admiringly, saying—"I +say, you are fetching in that cap." "Il y en a pour +tous les goûts." When we got back to the hotel we +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_290" title="pg 290"> </a> +found that Sir R. had quite changed our "itinéraire." +He had seen the boat, a fine large one which made the +outside passage to Arishaig, so instead of taking the +Caledonian Canal and landing at Fort William where +carriages and carts were ordered for us, he decided that +we should go by sea, and take our chance of finding some +means of transport. He did, however, send a telegram +to Arishaig, as the hotel man told him he would never +find any conveyance for such a large party.</p> + +<p>We started at 9 o'clock, and the sail was enchanting. +About 12 we ran rather close to a small headland, and +the Captain told us we had arrived. Apparently we +were in broad Atlantic with a rocky shore in the distance—however +a boat appeared, one of those broad, flat boats +which one sees all over in Scotland. Our disembarkation +was difficult as we were 11 people with quantities of +trunks and parcels. Happily the sea was quite smooth. +All the passengers were wildly interested in the operation +and crowded to the side of the steamer. When all +the party had finally got off with trunks, bags, a bird in +a cage, and a kitten in a basket, one of the passengers remarked—"They +only need a pony in that boat, to make +the party complete."</p> + +<p>To say we found a landing-place would be absolute +fiction. As we neared the shore we saw a quantity of +black, slippery rocks, and on these we landed, the boatmen +holding the boat as near as they could, and we climbing, +and slipping, and struggling to get on shore. Our +baggage was dumped on the rocks and there we were—not +a habitation or a creature in sight. At last we found +a sort of house behind a mass of rocks, and saw several +carriages in the distance which we supposed were for us. +Not at all! Sir R.'s telegram had not been received and +those were carriages waiting for a "Corps" which was +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_291" title="pg 291"> </a> +being conveyed across on a yacht. We tried to persuade +them to take some of us at any rate, and at last with great +difficulty one carriage was given to us. The negotiations +were extremely difficult, as nobody spoke anything +but Gaelic, except an old woman, and she was so cross +and apparently so suspicious of the whole party that we +got on better by signs and a few extra shillings. Sir R. +and the maids walked (4 miles through lovely country) +and we all finally arrived at the little fishing village of +Arishaig, where there is a good inn. It is a little place, +three or four fishermen's cottages, a post-office, and two +churches, a large Roman Catholic Cathedral and a small +Established Church. We had a good lunch and +started at 3.30, getting here at 5.30. Such a beautiful +drive—all blue sky, and heather almost as blue—and great +grey mountains. We walked up two very steep hills, but +had such glorious views at the top that we didn't mind the +climb.</p> + +<p>This place is charming—the house fairly large. It +stands low on the lake or arm of the sea, and has pine +woods and high mountains behind. It is absolutely lonely—no +houses near, except one or two (agent's and farmer's) +that belong to the estate. The country is lovely, +wild and picturesque, but it would be a terrible place to +be in except with a large party. There is nothing nearer +than 10 miles, and no real village or settlement for 25. +We are about half way between Fort William and Arishaig +(each 20 or 25 miles away). I think all our provisions +come from Fort William. A stage passes twice +a day, morning and evening. Our baggage arrived at +10.30, and we were all glad to go to bed, as we had begun +our day early. It is so still to-night—I am writing +in my room—the lake looks beautiful in the moonlight, +and there is not a sound.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_292" title="pg 292"> </a></p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Inveraylort</span>,<br > +Sunday, August 19th.</p> + +<p>We have settled down most comfortably in the house, +which is fairly large, but we are never indoors except to +eat and sleep. We had a lovely drive yesterday all +through this property, and to a neighbour's where there is +a pillar to show where Prince Charlie landed. There are +many Roman Catholics in these parts, which accounts for +the large church in the little fishing village of Arishaig.</p> + +<p>This morning we had a service in the "Wash-house"—a +red-headed Scotch peasant was the "Minister." It +was a curious sort of independent service, impromptu +prayers, and a long sermon. The congregation consisted +of ourselves and the household. Miss Cameron, the +owner of this place, who is staying at her agent's cottage +on the place, some friends of hers, and the people of the +little inn where the daily coach from Fort William stops +for rest and luncheon. There are no other habitations of +any kind except a few crofters' cottages across the lake. +After luncheon we went for a long walk along the stream +where there are plenty of fish, and came home over the +hills. They are blue and deep purple, with heather, and +there are divine views in every direction.</p> + +<p class="author">Thursday, August 22d.</p> + +<p>It is again a beautiful day. We intended to row down +to see some friends of Sir R.'s about 5 or 6 miles off +at the mouth of the lake, where it runs into the sea, +but there is some trouble about the boats. Our "propriétaire," +Miss C., seems to have singular ideas as to the +respective rights of owners and tenants. It was so fine +and cool that we decided to walk, and the B.'s promised +to send us back in their boat. It was long, but the path +was not too steep all along the lake, and we arrived not +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_293" title="pg 293"> </a> +too exhausted. They gave us tea, showed us the house +and garden, and we started back about 9. The row home +was enchanting, but weird—not a thing to be seen of any +kind, except seals, which came up close to the boat. I +had never seen one near, and thought at first they were +dogs and was so surprised to see so many swimming +about; not a sound except the splash of our oars in the +water when we turned our backs to the sea, the heather-covered +mountains shutting us in on all sides. It was +quite wild and beautiful, but a solitude that would be +appalling if one lived altogether in the country.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Inveraylort</span>, August 27th.</p> + +<p>After all they are not going to stay the month, Sir R. +and his proprietor can't come to terms, and I think they +will probably take a yacht and cruise about a little. The +lake is decidedly rough this morning, but still we thought +we must row across to some crofters' cottages. They +told us they were of the poorest description, and we +wanted to see what their life and houses were. Most +wretched little houses (our horses much better off in their +stables), generally one room, sometimes two; no floor, +merely the earth trodden hard, and covered with straw. +To-day it had been raining; there were puddles in the +corners and the straw was decidedly damp. A peat fire +was burning, and the only opening (no window) was +a hole in the thatched roof, which lets the smoke out +and the rain in. An old woman was spinning and an +old man was sitting in the corner mending a fishing net. +They were tall, gaunt figures—might be any age. They +spoke nothing but Gaelic, but soon a young woman appeared +on the scene who knew English. She looked as +old as her mother, but had a keen, sharp face. I was +rather interested in the spinning-wheel, so the two +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_294" title="pg 294"> </a> +women suggested that I should try; but I could do +nothing. Either I went too fast and broke the yarn, +or else the wheel remained absolutely motionless. I +bought some yarn, as I had broken various bits, and +then we started home, carrying away an impression of +wretched poverty and hard lives of toil, with little to +lighten the burden.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Oban</span>, August 29th.</p> + +<p>We are back here after a most eventful journey from +Inveraylort. We started in the rain, the mist closing +round us and blotting out the whole landscape. We had +two carriages, but the pony cart came to grief, and the +two girls and Francis were thrown out. Miss W. had +an ugly cut on her face, but poor N. was lying on the +ground, pale and suffering, convinced that her arm was +broken. When we got up to them we took her into the +waggonette and got on as quickly as we could to Caupar, +our destination, where we had been told of a wonderful +bone-setter who was well known in all these parts. He +saw at once what was wrong—her shoulder was dislocated, +and said she must not continue the journey, so +we left her there with her sister and brother, and we +came on here. They all appeared this afternoon—N. +with her arm in a sling and looking fairly well. She +said the man set it so quickly and gently she hardly had +time to feel any pain.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Oban</span>,<br > +September 3d.</p> + +<p>We had a beautiful day yesterday for our excursion +to Staffa and Iona. The sea was perfectly calm, and +the lights and shades on the mountains enchanting. It +was a lovely sail; sometimes we ran into little shaded +harbours with two or three cottages and a hotel perched +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_295" title="pg 295"> </a> +high up on the top of a mountain, and sometimes passed +so close to land under the great cliffs that one could +throw a stone on the shore. The islands are most interesting, +with their old churches and their curious stone +crosses, and there were not too many people on the boat. +The return was delicious as we sat on deck, watching all +the colours fade away from sea and hills.</p> + +<p>We leave to-morrow for London and Paris, and I am +very sorry to go. We have enjoyed our three weeks +immensely. The country is so beautiful, and then it was +a great pleasure to be with some of my own people; we +have been away so long that the family ties get weaker. +Francis was quite happy with some cousins to run about +with.</p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +May 21, 1889.</p> + +<p>I got back from Paris last night, rather sorry to come. +The weather was enchanting, warm and bright, and, of +course, quantities of people for the Exhibition. It isn't +half ready yet, but is most interesting—so much to see. +I dined and breakfasted there several times at the various +restaurants—one evening with the Walter Burns and +a party, and we went afterward to see the "fontaines +lumineuses," which are really fairy-like; but such a +crowd. I also heard the two American prima donnas—Miss +Eames, who is very handsome, has a fresh, +young voice, and is an ideal Juliette. She is a vision +really in her bridal dress as Juliette. Miss Sanderson +is also very handsome, but in quite a different style. +Her voice is very high and true; she was singing "Esclarmonde" +at the Opéra Comique. Massenet has taught +her everything. I have found quantities of invitations +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_296" title="pg 296"> </a> +here, in fact was obliged to come over, as we have a big +dinner the day after to-morrow, and the Court ball.</p> + +<p class="author">Tuesday, May 28, 1889.</p> + +<p>We had our first encounter with Boulanger this morning. +W. and I were walking our horses down the Row +when we met three gentlemen cantering toward us. As +they passed we heard they were speaking French, but +didn't pay any particular attention. I merely said, "I +wonder who those men are," one so rarely hears French +spoken in the Row. A few minutes later we met Lord +Charles Beresford, who took a little turn with us, and +said to W., "The other distinguished Frenchman is also +in the Row,"—then we divined. A few moments afterward +(the Row is so small one crosses people all the +time) we met them again, Boulanger in the middle riding +his famous black horse—a man on each side riding +good horses, chestnuts. They all wore top-hats, which no +Englishmen do now in the morning. The men all wear +low hats, the women also, and covert coats, the girls +cotton blouses; not at all the correct style we used to +admire as children in <em>Punch</em> when those beautiful women +of Leech's riding in the Park filled our childish hearts +with envy. I was rather curious as to what would happen, +as W. knows Boulanger slightly, and went to him +when he was Minister of War about something concerning +the military attaché; however, there was no difficulty, +as Boulanger was apparently too engrossed in +conversation with his companions to notice anyone. I +wonder if we shall meet him anywhere? They tell us +that some of the society people mean to invite him, but I +suppose they will scarcely ask us together.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_297" title="pg 297"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">Thursday, May 30th.</p> + +<p>Yesterday was the last Drawing-room of this season. +I rather feel as if it were my last in London, but one +never knows. We (Corps Diplomatique) were still all +in black, the English in colours. It was long and tiring. +We dined at Lord Sudeley's—I rather wishing I had no +engagement. I am always tired after those hours of +standing, and the diadem is heavy, and the train, too, +held over one's arm; however, I was quite repaid, as I +had a charming neighbour. I didn't know at all who +he was, as they rarely introduce in England, so we embarked +on one of those banal, inane conversations one +has with a stranger of whom one knows nothing, and +were talking on smoothly about nothing at all, when he +remarked, casually, "I suppose you never go to church." +This I at once resented vehemently, so he explained that +he didn't know, as I was a Frenchwoman, probably a +Catholic (as if they didn't go to church), etc. He +turned out to be Canon Rogers, a charming, intelligent, +well-known man, most independent in his words and +actions. He is rector of St. Botolph's, a church in +Bishopsgate, the most disreputable part of London. We +became great friends, and he asked me if I would go +and lunch with him one Sunday, and he would show me +Petticoat Lane. I agreed of course, and we decided for +next Sunday. He said he had never had a French lady +and an Ambassadress as a guest, and didn't quite know +what to do. Should he ask the Prince of Wales and +order champagne? I told him my tastes were very +simple, and if I might bring my cousin Hilda, and one +of the Secretaries, I should be quite happy—also I liked +apple-pie, which he says his cook makes very well. I +haven't had such a pleasant dinner for a long time.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_298" title="pg 298"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">Monday, June 3d.</p> + +<p>We made our expedition to Bishopsgate yesterday, +and most interesting it was. I went with Hilda and M. +Lecomte, one of the secretaries, who knows English, and +is very keen to see anything a little out of the way. We +had a long drive to the church through the city, and +arrived only to hear the end of Canon Rogers' sermon, +which was strong and practical. As soon as the service +was over we went down to the door and found him and +his curate waiting for us. The first thing he did was +to send away my carriage, which had already attracted +much attention with the tall footman, velvet breeches, +cockades, etc. He said he would never venture into +Petticoat Lane in such an equipage, and would we please +share his modest conveyance; so Hilda and I got into +his victoria, and Lecomte and the curate walked close +to the carriage behind. We had two policemen in front, +two behind, and a detective. I rather demurred to such +a display of municipal strength on my account, but he +said it was necessary, he much preferred having them, +he was afraid people would crowd around us and insist +upon my buying something. The street was narrow, +crowded with people, as there was also a fair going on +and everything imaginable being sold (it is the one place +in London where you can buy <em>one</em> shoe or <em>one</em> stocking!). +The people were almost all Jews, and I must say they +were a bad-looking lot, frightfully rough specimens. +Some of the women, girls too, with such sullen, scowling +faces. We went at a foot's pace (the only carriage), +and hadn't the slightest difficulty in making our way. +Everyone knew Mr. Rogers and spoke to him—"Good +morning, Governor," "God bless you, Sir." Two or +three children ran up to him, one a pretty little dark-eyed +girl breathless to tell him she was in church, though she +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_299" title="pg 299"> </a> +came late. He was so nice to them all, called them all by +name, patted the children on the head, and exhorted some +of the women to keep their husbands out of the drinking +shops, and to wash their children's faces. They say he +does an immense amount of good down there, but it must +be uphill work. I have rarely seen such a forbidding +looking set of people. Some of the women came up +rather close to the low victoria and made comments on +our garments. (We had dressed very simply at his +request. I wore my blue foulard and a blue straw bonnet +with iris on it. Hilda was in light grey with a black hat.) +"You have got a beautiful bonnet, my lady. Oh, look at +her umbrell!" The "umbrell" excited much attention. I +couldn't think why at first, as it was also rather dark and +plain; when I remembered that it had a watch in the +handle upon which, of course, all eyes were fixed. I +think the detective kept his eye upon it too, as he came +up rather close on my side. The detective took Lecomte +to a famous jeweller's shop near in Whitechapel, where +there had been a murder some days ago. We drove all +through the fair surrounded by these villainous faces +(here and there a pretty, fair, innocent, childish face) and +I wasn't sorry to get back to civilisation and the rectory, +though I am very glad to have seen it. The rectory is a +large old-fashioned house in Devonshire Square, shut in +with high houses and high trees, and never, I should +think, could a ray of sunshine get anywhere near it. +One felt miles away from London and life of any kind. +It was a curious contrast to the turbulent, noisy, seething +crowd we had just left. We had a charming breakfast, +Mr. Rogers talking all the time delightfully, so +original and so earnest, convinced that everyone in their +small circle could do so much to help, not only the poor +but the really bad, if only by example and a little sympathy; +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_300" title="pg 300"> </a> +he says no one ever helps the bad ones, only the +deserving poor get looked after.</p> + +<p>About 3.30 we started again to see the People's Palace, +which he takes great interest in, and hopes he may +succeed in keeping the men away from the drinking +shops in the evening. It looked comfortable and practical, +the reading-room particularly, which is large and +airy, with all sorts of morning and evening papers (some +foreign ones), illustrated papers, and good, standard +books. The librarian told me that Walter Scott was +always asked for, also some American books, particularly +Indian stories, and travels of all kinds. I was +rather interested in hearing that, as whenever W. gives +books to a school library, or prizes in France, Walter +Scott or Fenimore Cooper are still the favourites (translated, +of course. I read the "Last of the Mohicans" +in French, and it was very well done). There were not +many people, but Mr. Rogers says on a fine, warm Sunday +they all prefer to be in the open air. There is also +a large swimming bath, given by Lord Rosebery. We +parted from our host at the door, having had a delightful +afternoon. It is a long time since I have heard anyone +talk who interested me so much.</p> + +<p>The drive home along the Embankment was nice—quantities +of people out, quite like a Sunday in France. +We dined quietly at home. W. was much interested in +my day. I think if he had known exactly where I was +going, and that an escort of police was necessary, he +wouldn't have agreed to the expedition.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author">Thursday, June 4, 1889.</p> + +<p>The Court Ball was brilliant last night. The Prince +opened the ball with Princess Louise, and the Princess +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_301" title="pg 301"> </a> +with Lord Fife. The engagement of Princess Louise of +Wales to Lord Fife is just announced, and has of course +created quite a sensation. Of course there are two currents +of opinion—the old-fashioned people are rather +shocked at the idea of a Royal Princess marrying a subject; +but I fancy the entourage of the Prince and Princess +of Wales are pleased,—and Fife is a general favourite. +It is not very easy for the English princesses to +marry. They <em>must</em> marry Protestants, and there are not +many Protestant princes who are not near relations.</p> + +<p>I talked a little to the Shah, but I didn't find that very +amusing. He knows very little English or French, and +has a most disagreeable way of looking hard at one. He +planted himself directly in front of me, very close, and +said "he thought he had seen me before," which of course +he had, in Paris.</p> + +<p>It seems that one of the Princesses pointed out to him, +in the supper-room, a lady neither very young nor very +beautiful, who was covered with splendid jewels, thinking +they might interest him. He stopped short in front +of her—then turned his back at once, saying "monstre." +They say he finds no woman handsome who has passed +twenty.</p> + +<p class="author">Tuesday, July 2d.</p> + +<p>It was a splendid summer day yesterday, ideal, for the +Shah's arrival by water. We drove down to the Speaker's +to see him come. The streets were lined with troops, +and there were quantities of people about. They let us +drive through the Mall and to Westminster between the +lines of soldiers (all the traffic was stopped). Almost +all the houses and balconies on the way were draped with +red, and crowded with women in their light, gay summer +dresses. There were a good many people at the +Speaker's, who gave us some tea and strawberries. The +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_302" title="pg 302"> </a> +Royal Barge arrived very punctually. It was not very +beautiful—an ordinary river steamer, painted light grey, +with gold lines, and fitted up with palms, red cushions, +and carpets, etc. The Thames was a pretty sight, such +quantities of boats of all kinds. We saw everything +quite well. There was a fair procession of state carriages, +and an escort of Life Guards; but what a barbarian the +Shah looks, with his embroidered coat and his big jewels, +and his coarse, bad face—however he was smiling, +and seemed pleased with his reception.</p> + +<p>We waited to let the crowd disperse a little, and then +came home the same way through Constitution Hill. We +met the Prince and Princess coming back from Buckingham +Palace. Both looked very well—he in uniform, and +she in white, extraordinarily young in face and figure. +The two princes, Eddy and George, were with them, and +they were much applauded as they passed. In the evening +we had a musical party at Blumenthal's. The garden +was lighted and everyone sitting outside. The party was +in honour of Princess Louise, and the music very good, +as it always is there. Mdme. Grondal, a Swedish woman, +played beautifully, and Plunkett Greene sang very well. +He always brings down the house with "I'm Off to Philadelphy +in the Morning." Lord Lorne took me to supper. +I always like to talk to him. He was not much impressed +with his Persian Majesty either—thought the +days of Eastern potentates were over. I asked him what +he had come for, and why the English were so civil to +him; to which he replied, "Oh, I suppose some of the +swells want concessions, or railways."</p> + +<p class="author">Monday, July 8, 1889.</p> + +<p>We went to Hatfield this morning, where there was a +luncheon party for the Shah. It was decidedly grey and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_303" title="pg 303"> </a> +uncertain, in fact, raining a little when we started, and +I looked once or twice at my crème linon trimmed with +Valenciennes—but as I had ordered it especially for that +occasion, I decided to wear it. I put on a long cloak for +the train. The Hatfield parties are always very well arranged—trains +starting every ten minutes. It is hardly +three-quarters of an hour from London. There were +lots of people, and the short trajet passed quickly enough. +All the women were looking at each other to see the +dresses, as the weather was really bad. At Hatfield, one +of Lord Salisbury's sons was at the station to receive the +swells. I got separated in the crowd from W., so Lord +Edward put me into a brougham, and asked me if I +would take another Ambassador, as mine was missing +for the moment. I agreed, of course, so Comte Hatzfeldt +came with me. There was a large party staying in +the house, including the Prince and Princess, the Shah, +and various members of the family and Court. Lady +Salisbury was standing at one of the big doors opening +on the terrace. Lord Salisbury, she told me, was taking +the Shah for a drive in the park. We all loitered about a +little on the terrace. The rain had stopped and, though +there was no sun, the house looked beautiful with its grey +walls and splendid lines. The first person I saw was the +Duc d'Aumale, and we had quite a talk while waiting for +luncheon. The Prince also came out and talked. Luncheon +was served at small, round tables in the great dining-room. +As Doyens we were at the Royal table. The +Prince took me, and I had next to me the Grand Vizier, +who had taken in Lady Londonderry. She is very handsome, +very well dressed, and the Grand Vizier enjoyed +himself very much. It seems he is a very difficult gentleman, +and at some man's house party, Ferdinand Rothschild's, +I think, he was not pleased with his reception, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_304" title="pg 304"> </a> +or his place at the table, and declined to come downstairs. +There were about 70 people at luncheon, and as many +more, they told me, upstairs. Quantities of flowers, silver, +servants, etc., and a band playing. After breakfast +we all adjourned to the terrace and some photographic +groups were taken. There was some wonderful shooting +by some Americans which interested the Persians very +much, and one of the Shah's suite was most anxious to +try his hand at it, and forcibly took a rifle from the +American, who protested vigorously, but the Persian +kept hold of his gun and evidently meant to shoot, so +the American appealed directly to the Prince, saying +there would be an accident if he was allowed to go on; +and the Prince interfered and persuaded the irate Oriental +to give up his weapon.</p> + +<p>They had asked a great many people to tea, but evidently +the rain had kept many away. The toilettes were +most varied—every description of costume, from the +Duchess of Rutland in white satin and diamonds (large +stones sewed all over the body of her dress) to the +simplest description of blue serge, covert coat, and even +a waterproof carried over one's arm. I was thinking of +going to get a cup of tea, when I crossed again the Duc +d'Aumale, who was also looking for the tea-table, so we +went off together and had a pleasant "quart d'heure." +He is always so nice to W. and me, and is so distinguished-looking +wherever he is—such extraordinary +charm of manner and so soldierly. He had been much +amused by the stories he had heard of the eccentricities +of the Persian suite. One of the ladies staying in the +house found two gentlemen sitting on her bed when she +went up to dress for dinner. I must say I think it was +awfully good of Lady Salisbury to ask them all to stay.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus352.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the Shah of Persia, July, 8, 1889" id="illus352" title="Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the Shah of Persia, July, 8, 1889"></a> + +<p class="center small">Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the Shah of Persia, July, 8, 1889<br > +The following are among those in the picture Prince of Wales Lord Salisbury Shah of +Persia Princess of Wales Rustem Turkish Ambassador Hatzfeldt German Ambassador +Lord Halsbury the Lord Chancellor M de Staal Russian Ambassador Duc d'Aumale +Countess of Cadogan M Waddington French Ambassador Madame Waddington Countess +of Galloway Duchess of Devonshire<br > +From a photograph by Russell & Sons London</p></div> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_305" title="pg 305"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, July 27th.</p> + +<p>Princess Louise of Wales and Fife were married this +morning in the small chapel at Buckingham Palace. +Very few people were asked, no diplomats except Falbe, +Danish Minister, who is a great favourite at Court, and +asked always. The streets, especially Piccadilly, were +crowded with people. We had to go round by Belgrave +Square and Buckingham Palace to get to Marlborough +House. We were invited at 2 o'clock to see the bride +and the presents. The wedding party drove up just as +we arrived. Fife's coach, dark green with green and gold +liveries, was very handsome. The Princess of Wales +looked radiant, and the bride charming—beautifully +dressed and just pale enough to be interesting. The +King of Greece and Crown Prince of Denmark were both +there. The presents were beautiful—every imaginable +thing in diamonds and silver. The Prince and Princess's +tiara very handsome—also Fife's. There was a buffet +and tea in the garden, also in the drawing-rooms; and +we waited to see the young couple start. They looked +very happy and smiling. Their carriage was very handsome, +with four black horses and an outrider. Everyone +cheered and threw rice after them. They started +with a Royal escort, but at the top of the park Fife sent +it back, and they made their entry into Sheen in his carriage +only. They said he made a condition that there +should be no lady-in-waiting, that his wife should be +Duchess of Fife only; but of course she can never lose +her rank. None but Ambassadors were asked to the reception +at Marlborough House—no other diplomats.</p> + +<p class="author">July 30th.</p> + +<p>We had our last dinner this season—musical and all +Italians, Tosti, Vinci, and Picolellis. Mme. de Florian +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_306" title="pg 306"> </a> +came in late with her dinner guests, among others the +Duchesse de Richelieu, who is very fond of music. Tosti +is delightful once he gets to the piano, sings (with no +voice) and plays whatever one wants—his own music, +anybody's, and always so simply. It was very warm. +We all sat and stood on the balcony when we were not +playing and singing.</p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Hatfield</span>, January 8, 1891.</p> + +<p>We came down last night for dinner. It was very +cold, snow and ice in London, and skating everywhere. +We are not a very large party—the family, some of Lord +Salisbury's secretaries, Casa Laiglesia (just made Ambassador—very +happy. Spain had only a <em>Minister</em> here +till now), the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, etc. After +dinner the older members of the party played whist, and +the young ones danced in the great hall. This time we +have King James I.'s rooms, an enormous bed (with a +Royal crown on the top) where he really slept. We +have been out all day; the gentlemen went off early to +shoot, and I got down about 12. I found some of the +young women, Ladies Cranborne and Northcote, in the +hall and we decided we would go and skate. It was bitterly +cold, but no wind, and the pond is not far, just at +the end of the terrace. There was a little wooden house +on the edge where we put on our skates, and plenty of +chairs and canes. Ladies Northcote and Gwendoline +Cecil skate very well. Lady Salisbury came down to the +pond, took a broom from one of the numerous sweepers, +and swept hard to keep herself warm. After lunch I +went for a sleigh ride with Lady Salisbury in a pretty +little one-horse sleigh she had bought at the Exhibition. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_307" title="pg 307"> </a> +It was very good going in the park, but we bumped occasionally +going across the fields. To-night we broke up +rather early; we were all tired with the first day's skating, +and the men with their shooting.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus356.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Lord Salisbury" id="illus356" title="Lord Salisbury"><br></a> + +<p class="center small"> Lord Salisbury<br > +From a photograph by Weston & Son Dover</p></div> + + +<p class="author">Friday.</p> + +<p>It has been again a beautiful winter's day, and we have +skated all the afternoon until dark. Lady Salisbury came +again with her broom and swept vigorously. It seems +many doctors recommend sweeping now for women who +need exercise and cannot ride or walk. We tried hard +to make Casa Laiglesia come down to the pond, but he +refused absolutely—that was not at all his idea of pleasure. +We spent some time in the library looking over +some of the old manuscripts of the time of Queen Elizabeth +and King Philip of Spain, and we saw him taking +a short, very short turn on the terrace in the sun, +wrapped up so as to be almost "méconnaissable."</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, January 18th.</p> + +<p>It is still very cold—the Serpentine is quite frozen, +and quantities of people skating. The ice is very bad, +rather like a ploughed field, but it is amusing to see all +the people. We have been this afternoon to Wimbledon, +and there it was delightful. There was quite a large +part reserved and beautifully smooth, belonging to a +club; so Comte de St. Genys (one of the secretaries), +who was with us, sent in his card, saying he was there +with the French Ambassadress; and they were most +civil, brought us chairs, and begged us to come back +whenever we liked. We saw some beautiful fancy skating, +both men and women. We skated afterward a little +on the big lake to see the people. It was a beautiful +day, and a very pretty sight, quite like a Dutch picture.</p> + +<p>I was interrupted by a visit from Mr. Bryce. He +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_308" title="pg 308"> </a> +came really to ask about you and to know if you would +stay on at Alassio. He spoke so warmly and admiringly +of Schuyler that it was a pleasure to hear him. He said +he was certainly the cleverest, most cultivated American +he had ever seen, that he had never met anyone who +knew so many things well. He couldn't conceive how +any Government that had such a man to place could have +let any party feeling prevent them from giving him a +prominent place, in their own interest.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +Thursday, February 19th.</p> + +<p>We have had a funny day. There was a sale of horses, +hunters principally, at Cricklewood, a place just outside +of London, where they have very good horses. We have +been there several times with Deichmann, who has always +fine horses, and have bought two or three ourselves. +I am looking for a saddle horse, so W. and I drove out +the other day, and I tried two which I liked very much +(there is a riding-school where one can try). Then +Newman, the head man, rode them over some hurdles +to show me how well they jumped. They promised to +let us know when the sale would be, and yesterday sent +word we must come to-day. I drove out with Hilda in +her pony carriage. We drew up close to the ring and +the auctioneer's stand and saw everything well. Her +horses were taken out and we made ourselves as comfortable +as we could with furs and couvertures. It was +bitterly cold, with a high wind that cut one in two. W. +and Deichmann wandered about in the crowd. The collection +of people was most amazing, horsey to a degree; +horse dealers, trainers, jockeys, racing men and women—a +few gentlemen here and there, not many. There +was a champagne lunch going on at Newman's, but that +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_309" title="pg 309"> </a> +we declined—so they brought us tea and excellent bread +and butter to the carriage. The two horses I had tried +were among the first and I hoped I should get one of +them, but they brought much more than the dealers supposed +they would. They looked extremely well when +they were brought out first, galloped over the grass, and +then jumping their hurdles beautifully, taking them easily +in a long stride (of course they were beautifully handled, +every point made the most of). W. made various +bids, but when it got beyond a certain sum he wouldn't +give any more, as it was a fancy price and could have +gone up indefinitely. I was rather disappointed, as I had +set my heart on the black horse. It was cold driving +home in the teeth of the wind. We dined with the Deichmanns, +with some of our colleagues, and everyone was +discussing the Empress Frederick's visit to Versailles. +Until then everything had gone most swimmingly, but +of course all French people were "froissés" at that. I +don't exactly understand her going. She is so intelligent, +and had apparently realised quite well how difficult +it would be for her ever to go to Paris. Years ago +in Rome, where we met her almost every night, she told +us she was so anxious to go to Paris, but she was afraid +she could not manage it. She wanted very much to meet +Renan—admired his books so much, and his great intelligence; +and I think she would have been delighted with +him. He was a charming talker on every subject, and +so easy.</p> + + +<h3><em>To G.K.S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +Tuesday, March 10, 1891.</p> + +<p>We had an awful storm yesterday, a regular blizzard, +and a terrible night in the Channel. One of the good +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_310" title="pg 310"> </a> +boats, the Victoria, was out all night, not daring to land +at either Dover or Calais. One of our young attachés +was on board, bringing over despatches, and they say he +looked green when he finally did arrive. The trains were +snowed up everywhere, even between Folkestone and +London, and the passengers nearly frozen and starved. +It seems incredible in such a short distance. The young +men are generally rather eager to bring over despatches, +but I rather think this one won't try it again, in winter +at any rate. I am extraordinarily lucky in my crossings, +because probably I am a good sailor. I go backward and +forward in all seasons and always have good weather. +The Florians have had some wonderful crossings, nine +hours between Calais and Dover, both of them <em>tied</em> in +their chairs, and the chairs tied to the mast.</p> + +<p class="author">Thursday, March 12, 1891.</p> + +<p>Yesterday we were at Windsor to dine and sleep. The +party was small—Staal, the Russian Ambassador, Lord +Hartington, Sir Frederick Leighton, Lord and Lady +Curzon, Countess Perponcher and Count Seckendorff in +attendance on the Empress Frederick, and of course the +regular members of the Queen's Household. Lady Antrim +was in waiting. We assembled as usual in the long +corridor close to the door by which the Royal party entered. +We were all in black, as the Empress was there. +The Queen and the Empress came in together. The +Queen shook hands with me and the two Ambassadors—the +Empress with me only, bowing to the others. She is +still in deep mourning—her dress black (woollen stuff +of some kind) covered with crêpe, and a crêpe veil arranged +in a point, or sort of Mary Stuart cap, on the top +of her head, and falling behind to the edge of her skirt. +The corsage was a little open, and she had a splendid +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_311" title="pg 311"> </a> +necklace of pearls, also a miniature of the Emperor Frederick +set in diamonds fastened on the front of her bodice. +The dress was very becoming—she looked very stately +and graceful as she walked through the corridor. She +gave her arm to the Queen, and they walked in first to +the dining-room, the Empress sitting next to the Queen +on her right. W. followed with Princess Beatrice, sitting +on the Queen's left; Staal with Princess Margaretta, +and sat on the right of the Empress. Lord Hartington +took me. The Queen talked a great deal to W.—the +Empress joined in occasionally. They were both +much interested in the Protestants in France, and wanted +to know if the feeling was as strong as in the old days +of Huguenots and Catholics. I think there is a very +strong feeling, and it is rare when a French Protestant +marries a Catholic—rarer still when they become Catholics.</p> + +<p>The dinner is always quickly served, and the conversation +nil. Nobody talks except those who are next the +Princesses. The cercle was, as usual, in the corridor +between the two doors. The Queen stood a little, but not +all the time. She spoke to me about Johannes Wolff—admired +his playing so much. The Empress talked a +long time to W., and spoke immediately about her visit +to Paris and Versailles, which was rather awkward for +him, as he regretted very much that she had gone. All +the first part of her stay went so well. She told W. +she had had nothing but respect, and even sympathy +wherever she had been, and that she was much astonished +and distressed when she saw the papers and +found what a storm was raging in the press. The +Queen said a few words to me about the visit, and +seemed to think it was a radical demonstration +against the Government. I answered vaguely that all +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_312" title="pg 312"> </a> +radicals made mischief—it wasn't a very easy subject +to discuss. The cercle was not very long—about +three-quarters of an hour—and then the Court retired, +the two Sovereigns going out as they came in, +together. We finished the evening in the drawing-room, +but broke up early. W. went off to smoke, and I had a +nice hour in the beautiful little yellow salon. I had a +splendid fire, quantities of candles (always my mania—I +hate lamps, particularly in these days of petroleum), +and was quite happy. Adelaïde was very eloquent over +the style of the housekeeper's room, and was funny over +Charles, our French footman, and his indignation at +being excluded from the society of the valets and ladies' +maids. W.'s man was ill, so he took the French footman, +who has often done his service. That gentleman +being in livery was considered one of the lower servants +(sat some way below the salt) and when the swells (Adelaïde, +of course, included) retired to the housekeeper's +room for dessert and coffee he remained with the under +servants. All these domestic arrangements are quite unheard +of in France—any distinctions of that kind would +set the whole establishment in a storm.</p> + +<p>It was a cold night, snow lying thick on the ground, +clouds dark and low, and the great towers looked grim +and formidable. W. came in about 12—said the talk in +the fumoir was pleasant. He likes Count Seckendorff +very much, finds him intelligent and moderate and sensible +in his opinions—like all men who have knocked about +a great deal and who know, not only other countries but +the <em>people</em> of the country. After all, churches, and palaces, +and picture galleries have a certain "resemblance," +but people are different, and sometimes very interesting. +We came away this morning at 10.30. I did not see +anyone except Lady Antrim, as I never go to the dining-room +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_313" title="pg 313"> </a> +for breakfast. I was ready a little before the time, +and wandered about the corridor a little, looking at all +the pictures. I met Staal doing the same thing. There +is so much to see.</p> + +<p>It is a beautiful bright day, and Hyde Park looked +very animated as we drove through. Everyone was +waiting to see the Queen pass. She arrived about an +hour after us, as there is a Drawing-room to-morrow. +We had some music this afternoon—2 pianos, 8 hands—and +we play rather well a splendid symphony of Brahms'—not +at all easy. We dined with Mr. Henry Petre, one +of the most soigné dinners in London. It is always +pleasant at his house—they say it is because he is a bachelor, +which is not very flattering to <em>us</em>, but I think it is +true, I don't know why. As we were out we <em>went on</em>, +as they say here, to Lady Aberdeen, who had a small +dance, but did not stay very long, as it was rather a +young company. People always say there is nothing +going on in London before the season, but we dine out +every night and often have (I at least) something in the +afternoon—a tea, or music. I don't believe anybody +ever dines at home in London. The theatres are always +crowded, quite as much as in Paris. Hilda and I went +the other night with Count Seckendorff to see "Charlie's +Aunt," a ridiculous farce which is having a great success. +He protested at first at our choice—would have +preferred something more classic, but he was perfectly +amused (though protesting all the time). The piece is +absolutely stupid, but so well played that the house was +in roars of laughter, and that is always infectious. The +man who played the part of the maiden aunt was extraordinarily +well got up. His black silk dress and mittens +were lovely—he looked really a prim old spinster and +managed his skirts so well.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_314" title="pg 314"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, April 4, 1891.</p> + +<p>We lunched to-day with Ferdinand Rothschild to meet +the Empress Frederick. We were a small party, principally +Diplomatists. The Deyms, Hatzfeldt, Soveral, +Harry Whites, etc. The Empress came (punctually) +with Countess Perponcher and Seckendorff. The lunch +was very handsome, quickly served and very animated, +everybody talked. I had Hatzfeldt on the other side (I +sat between him and Rothschild) so I was quite happy—there +is nobody I like so much to talk to. He is very +clever, very entrain, speaks French beautifully and talks +about anything—just enough "moqueur" to keep one's +wits sharpened. We had a discussion as to what was +the origin of "Mrs. Grundy." None of us knew. I +must ask Jusserand, who will I am sure be able to tell us.</p> + +<p>We were all dressed in black velvet, one would have +thought it was a "mot d'ordre." The Empress is very +easy and likes to talk. She asked me if I knew Déroulède, +said she heard some of his poetry was charming. I +told her the "Chants du Soldat" were delightful, but <em>I</em> +couldn't send them to her (they are all about the Franco-German +War). One of the ladies, Mrs. White I think, +said she would.</p> + +<p class="author">Tuesday, April 21, 1891.</p> + +<p>We had a pleasant little dinner Sunday night for +Wormser, the composer of "L'Enfant Prodigue," which +has had an enormous success here. Wolff came too, and +they played all the evening. I haven't seen the piece yet, +so I was delighted to hear the music. I promised him I +would go on Wednesday, my first free night.</p> + +<p>Last night I went with Lady Northcote to the Opera; +it was "Lohengrin" with Miss Eames and the Reszkes. +The girl looked beautiful, quite the patrician maiden, +and sang very well; a little cold, but that was of less +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_315" title="pg 315"> </a> +importance in that opera than in "Romeo and Juliet," +which needs more passion. The house was very full and +she was much applauded. Jean de Reszke looked magnificent +and sang divinely. What a voice it is, and how +well he knows how to use it. I fancy Covent Garden is +a much better salle to sing in than our great Paris Opéra. +The voices seem so far off there, and all the singers complain +and get soon tired. W. came in late just as I did. +He had had a delightful dinner at Mr. Murray's (the +publisher) with Mr. Gladstone. He said Mr. G. was in +great form, talking about everything: books, politics, +theories, and always with a perfect knowledge of each +subject expressed in beautiful English. He must have a +marvellous memory.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K</em>.</h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br > +June 6, 1891.</p> + +<p>You will be amused, Dear, to hear that after all we +have decided to have the children's comedy. The moment +is not exactly propitious in the height of the London +season when every instant is taken, but I think we +can make something pretty, and Mdme. Thénard is very +keen about it. We shall take the "Reine des Fées"—but +very much changed, and parts added for every child—also +a gavotte and a chorus. I saw some of the mammas, +Countess Deym; Mdme. de Bille; Ladies Londonderry, +Clanwilliam, etc., yesterday, and they will let me +have their daughters. Thénard will direct the whole +thing, with Count de St. Genys (Secretary of the French +Embassy in London) as régisseur and also décorateur, as +he has begun painting a charming décor (the interior of +the bailiff's cottage). Mdme. de Langhe will undertake +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_316" title="pg 316"> </a> +the chœurs and leçons de diction, and I don't quite know +yet whom we shall get for the gavotte, or how many +children we must have. The dresses will be pretty—two +sets—Marie Antoinette and all her ladies in powder—Trianon +costumes—and peasants, market women, etc. +Of course the boys are a difficulty. There are so few +who are here of Francis's old friends—they are all at +school. Thénard has a little friend (girl) whom she will +dress as a Marquis—she says she will look the part very +well. Francis is much excited—he is to be the cruel +bailiff who takes all the money and everything else he +can get from the poor peasants. St. Genys will see +about his costume, and make a croquis from some picture +of the period.</p> + +<p class="author">June 12, 1891.</p> + +<p>We are all (except the Ambassador) perfectly taken up +with the comédie—and to-day we had our first répétition +of the gavotte in the drawing-room. I hadn't +thought of saying anything about the dancing to the +young men, and it seems the "chancellerie" went nearly +mad; their rooms being directly under the salons, they +heard everything—the music beginning the same thing +over and over again—and the heavy little feet that +couldn't stay long on the tips of their toes. I had some +trouble in finding a dancing-mistress—I thought first of +the American who had that dancing class here where all +the children went, but she didn't seem to understand exactly +what I wanted. Finally some one told me I had +much better send for Mrs. Roffy—ballet-mistress at the +Alhambra—who has sometimes arranged menuets and +gavottes for "les femmes du monde"; so I wrote to her +to come and see me. She knew exactly what I wanted, +would undertake the whole thing—how many children—what +sort of a dance—was most business-like—and we +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_317" title="pg 317"> </a> +fixed the first répétition at once. There were about 20 +children, of all ages and sizes, varying from 3 years to +14—Muriel White, Gay Edwardes and her brother, a +little de Breunen, Elsa Deichmann, etc. Mrs. Roffy +looked very nice. She is very tall, but rather graceful—she +had a little black bag in which were her black silk +stockings and pointed slippers, and asked if she might +have a room to arrange herself—so Clarisse took charge +of her. I took the piano—and most distracting it was—as +no two of the children ever began their steps at the +same time. It was amusing to see Mrs. Roffy. She +moved extraordinarily gracefully for such a tall woman, +and was so patient—holding up her dress, pointing her +toes, and talking to them all the time—"Heads up, +Dears—Heads up! Look at me—very proud, please." I +should have given up in despair after a quarter of an +hour. All the little arms and legs went at wrong times +in wrong directions, and no one seemed to have the +slightest idea of time. She will give one or two private +lessons to some of the very small ones.</p> + +<p>Madame de Langhe, too, has her hands full with the +chorus, "Vive la Reine"—but I think she must have some +one behind the scenes to sing the solo, and then the +children will come out strong in the chorus. The rôles +are all distributed—Bianca Deym—a tall handsome +girl—is to be Marie Antoinette; and the various other +Court ladies are Lady Helen Stewart (Lady Londonderry's +daughter), Lady J. Meade (Lady Clanwilliam's +daughter), Marguerite Phelps, Anna Lawrence, Elsa de +Bille, etc. I think it will be pretty.</p> + +<p class="author">June 15, 1891.</p> + +<p>Hilda and I have been half over London to-day for +our stage scenes. We must have real ones representing +a sort of wood where the market people have their +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_318" title="pg 318"> </a> +stands, and the Queen and the ladies come to buy flowers—also +sufficient space for the gavotte. The man +promises to send it all the day before, as the children +must rehearse at least once with the real scenes—for their +entrées—that is always a little difficulty. The bigger +girls do all right, but the little ones rush in—speak very +quickly—and <em>always</em> to Thénard, who stands at one +side—looking hard at her to see if they are doing right—and +paying no attention whatever to Her Gracious Majesty +Queen Marie Antoinette. Muriel White is very +good, very deliberate, very careful, and taking all the +French nuances and intonations very well. Gay Edwardes, +too, is very good—her French is pretty and easy, +she learnt it so young in Paris. One of the others (I +forget which one) was having a private lesson in a corner +with Francis, who was trying to make her roll her +Rs in a proper French fashion. She had a complaint to +make of her garden—all about "carottes" et "giroflées," +and the sentences had a true British ring. Francis is +very important, takes himself quite "au sérieux," and is +most interested in the proper diction of all the young +ladies. I sat some time in the drawing-room while St. +Genys was painting his scenes. We had various visitors +(even W., who was very complimentary over the décor), +tea, and Thénard to settle about a rampe of flowers and +tapestry curtain.</p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, June 20, 1891.</p> + +<p>I am rather lazy this morning and feel as if I had suddenly +nothing to do. The comédie went off very well +yesterday and was a pretty sight. Until the last moment +I was doubtful, as we had so many péripéties. At the +dress rehearsal on Thursday, Bianca Deym (Marie Antoinette) +was so hoarse she could hardly speak. The +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_319" title="pg 319"> </a> +girl looked very handsome and distinguished in powder +(trés bien coiffée) and one of her mother's handsome +Court dresses, but Thénard wouldn't let her speak—said +all her part herself, and told Bianca to pay +great attention to her voice and gestures. Toupet +(Francis), the cruel bailiff, had such a stiff neck and sore +throat that he could hardly move—so he was rubbed +hard with Elliman's Embrocation and sent to bed as +soon as the répétition was over. His costume was very +good—coat and long waistcoat of prune cloth—lace +jabot—tricorne and gold-headed cane lent by one of +his English cousins—a wig of course—which quite +changed him. The girls looked charming—I don't know +which was the most becoming—the powder and Court +dress or the short skirts and high caps of the paysannes. +The gavotte went very well. The small children in +front and the bigger ones behind. I never could have +believed that anyone could evolve anything like a +gavotte from the whirling chaos of arms and legs that +was my first impression. M. Lecomte (Secretary of the +Embassy), who is a very good musician, was at the piano, +and marked the time very exactly, which was absolutely +necessary for such young performers.</p> + +<p>Various friends and Mammas came to look on and +criticise—which was what we wanted—and all were +pleased. Thénard and St. Genys were quite delighted—and +as they have seen it from the first and noted the +improvement, that was reassuring. Henry Edwardes +came, much amused and slightly astonished at his children's +performance (the boy was so good). He told me +he considered it quite remarkable. He offered to take +charge of the green-room the day of the performance, +and I accepted with pleasure, as I am sure the children +will be rather excited and probably unruly.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_320" title="pg 320"> </a></p> + +<p>I had a note from Miss Knollys while the répétition +was going on saying that the Princess of Wales and her +two daughters, Princesses Victoria and Maud, would be +present on Friday at the performance. I announced this +at once to my young troupe, and they were filled with +pleasure and dismay at the appalling prospect of playing +before Royalties. I went for a ride Friday morning +with Pontavice and when I came in was given a wild +note from the Countess Deym saying that Bianca +had a complete "extinction de voix" and what could +be done. If someone else could take the part (which +was impossible at such short notice) she would send +all her daughter's dress, which was very handsome, or +Bianca would come and look the part and Thénard do +the talking from the coulisses. Of course I chose the +latter, and sent off Clarisse at once to the Austrian Embassy +with a remedy that Mdme. Richard of the Opéra +gave me. Francis was all right, his neck quite straight. +After breakfast I had a last practice with him and Lecomte +for the gavotte. I got in a small piano from Érard +(my big one took up too much room behind the scenes) +and then I dismissed the whole thing from my mind, and +went to dress. I told the children to be there at 4.30 so +as to begin the minute the Princess arrived. She said she +would come at five.</p> + +<p>The little blue salon was a pretty sight when it was +filled with all the children in costume. Thénard's Marquis +looked too sweet—she had dressed the girl so well +in satin coat, ruffles, and silk stockings, and enormous +paste buckles on her shoes. She did her part perfectly—so +easy, and such pretty French. The Princess came +punctually with her two daughters, and the play began at +once. I think there were about 100 people—we couldn't +seat any more as the stage took up a good deal of +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_321" title="pg 321"> </a> +room. The prettiest scenes were the Trianon and the +Market Place. In the Trianon, Marie Antoinette was +seated surrounded by her ladies, and le Marquis telling +them "les petites nouvelles de la cour." The child +was killing when she took out her snuff-box and made +flowery phrases. The Market was very well arranged +with flowers and vegetables. Violet Freeman made a +splendid old woman at one stall, and Hilda Deichmann +did her boy's part very well. After the Queen had made +her round (her voice came back, though she was rather +hoarse still) she and her ladies retired a little to the +background, where the Court made a brilliant group, +while the peasants sang their chorus, "Vive la Reine." +Then came the gavotte, which really went extremely +well. Mrs. Roffy was breathless with recommendations +until the last moment. Both chorus and gavotte were +encored, and there was much applause when the curtain +fell.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus372.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy" id="illus372" title="A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy"> </a> + +<p class="center" style="max-width:600px">Violet Freeman<span style="float: right">Francis Waddington</span></p> +<p class="center small"> +A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy<br > +From a Photograph by Barker & Pragnell London</p></div> + + +<p>The Princess, who is always so gracious, asked me +what I would like her to do, so I said if she would allow +the whole troupe to defile before her I would name each +one—and I knew it would give them great pleasure. +She agreed at once, so the procession, headed by Marie +Antoinette, passed, and the Princess shook hands with +every one, talking a little to those she knew. They all +applauded when Toupet, with his wig and cane, appeared. +Then I named Mdmes. Thénard and Roffy—and I wish +you could have seen those ladies' curtseys (Mdme. Roffy's +particularly splendid), also St. Genys and Lecomte. The +whole thing lasted a short hour, even with the répétition +of chorus and gavotte. We had tea in the drawing-room—the +children downstairs. The Princess told +me she thought it charming—quite wonderful. The only +two French children were Francis and the Marquis, but +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_322" title="pg 322"> </a> +I must say I thought the others quite wonderful. When +the Princess went away all the children assembled in the +hall at the foot of the stairs, bowing and curtseying—and +it was a pretty sight, such a mass of colour and +flushed, eager little faces. The Princess told them all +again how much she had enjoyed the performance, and +it was quite a happy little crowd that dispersed soon +afterward to their respective homes. W. complimented +Thénard very much, who had given herself no end of +trouble—also Mdme. de Langhe, who had undertaken +the chorus. Some of the ladies were rather anxious we +should repeat the performance for the benefit of some +charity, but W. didn't like to have a paying thing at +the Embassy; and at one of the public halls it would not +have been very easy—some of the ladies objected.</p> + +<p>I dined at home, but went to a concert in the evening, +and had various compliments for my troupe. The +Prince of Wales told me that the Princess had told him +it was quite charming. I think on the whole W. was +pleased. He was rather doubtful about inviting the Princess—thought +it was a little informal, and would bore +her, but I don't think it did.</p> + +<p class="author">Tuesday, June 23, 1891.</p> + +<p>We have had various notices in the French papers of +the comédie; generally "une bonne presse," but one or +two of the very Republican papers expressed great surprise +at such a <em>Royalist Demonstration</em>—couldn't imagine +<em>why</em> we had chosen that particular chorus, "Vive la +Reine," at an Embassy representing the French Republic!</p> + +<p>I am sorry you couldn't come over—all the répétitions +would have amused you so much. Nothing was funnier +than to see Francis always in a corner with some of the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_323" title="pg 323"> </a> +girls. Madame Campan (Elsa de Bille) had a long thing +to say, and was most anxious to have the correct accent.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +July 8, 1891.</p> + +<p>I dined quietly with some of the personnel last night, +and had Thekla Staal, as her mother and father had gone +to Windsor for the State banquet for the German Emperor. +Mdme. de Staal came in for a moment on her way +home—she said it was very handsome, very well done, +as it always is at Windsor, only they were all rather uncomfortable, +as they went down from London by special +train in full dress—diamonds and feathers—and when +they arrived at the Castle they were asked to take off +their wraps in the hall, no dressing-room of any kind +provided. I don't know what my erratic hair would have +looked like. Of course I couldn't go on account of my +mourning.</p> + +<p>All London was on the "qui vive" this morning, as the +German Emperor was to make his formal entry into London. +I thought I wouldn't go in the carriage and take up +a position, so Mrs. Edwardes suggested that I should go +with her to Constitution Hill, where she had places, and +see the Emperor pass there; so we started off on foot +quite cheerfully, but as soon as we got outside the Park +and wanted to cross the Square, we were confronted by +lines of soldiers and policemen, who refused to let us pass. +I explained who I was and that I was merely going to +cross to Constitution Hill, but they evidently thought +nothing of an Ambassadress in a simple black dress with +neither equipage nor servants, and we were getting +rather discouraged when I saw a Park-keeper who knew +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_324" title="pg 324"> </a> +me, so he instantly went after one of the heads of the +mounted police, who appeared, made way for us and accompanied +us (he riding) across the Square. Some of +our friends, who were looking on from windows in the +houses opposite, were rather anxious—thought we had +been arrested. We waited a little while and very soon +the head of the procession appeared. We made ourselves +as small as we could and squeezed close up to the gate, +but the Horse Guards on their big, black horses came +unpleasantly near and the least plunge or kick would +have been disastrous. The Royal carriage passed quite +close to us at a quick trot. The Emperor looked very +wide-awake and soldierly in blue dragoon uniform; the +Empress, tall and fair, in white, was seated next to him; +the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Edinburgh on the +front seat. There was not much enthusiasm, a few hats +(not all) lifted. The Emperor saluted all the time, +mechanically. When he saw me he leaned forward, +smiled and bowed in evident recognition. I can't think +how he knew me, standing there in a crowd of nursery-maids +and children. He had seen me but twice before, +and then in the evening in full dress. I suppose it is that +extraordinary memory, instinct almost, that all Princes +have, and which does them such good service. Everyone +is pleased and flattered at being recognised by a Royalty. +I was, too, just like all the rest. I wasn't mistaken +in thinking he knew me. He told one of our secretaries +at the reception at the Palace that he had seen Mdme. +Waddington <em>standing</em> in the crowd.</p> + +<p>Hilda came to dinner with Countess Eulenbourg (wife +of the Master of Ceremonies of the German Court) and +her boy. They were very late, as the Countess had been +to Buckingham Palace to see the Empress. She said the +confusion was something awful. She had great difficulty +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_325" title="pg 325"> </a> +in getting in, was sent from pillar to post and +finally the carriage was allowed to enter through the +stable-yard. She was glad to have a quiet evening. Her +husband was at the gala performance at the Opera with +the Emperor and Empress. She spoke a great deal +about the Emperor, said it was impossible to be with him +without feeling what a strong personality he is; that what +he felt was right and best for Germany he would certainly +do—also that he would never shirk a responsibility, or +put the blame on others if he made a mistake. It seems +curious to be suddenly out of everything. W. is still in +France<sup><a href="#fn11" id="r11">[11]</a></sup> +and of course our deep mourning makes all +Court and gala things impossible for us. I think W. +must come back before the Emperor goes and try to see +him in a private audience, if nothing else can be arranged.</p> + +<p class="author">Thursday, 9th.</p> + +<p>All the Corps Diplomatique were received this morning +at Buckingham Palace—the men by the Emperor, +the women by the Empress. Hatzfeldt presented the +men. In W.'s absence, d'Estournelles represented the +Embassy (with all the secretaries of course). As he was +only Chargé d'Affaires, he could not take W.'s place as +Doyen at the head of the row—on the contrary, was +quite at the end; after all the Ministers of the small +Powers—however they made a little group apart. The +Emperor talked a little while to d'Estournelles—regretted +very much not seeing W.—knew that he was still +in France, and told him to tell me that he had recognised +me at once in the Park. He said a few words to each +member of the Embassy. The ladies were presented by +Mdme. de Staal—my young women told me she did it +very well, passing down the line with the Empress and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_326" title="pg 326"> </a> +naming every one. They also found the Empress very +gracious, saying something to each one—of course there +is never any real conversation on such occasions, people +are usually in a hurry and anxious to get through their +<em>function</em>.</p> + +<p>This afternoon was the garden party at Marlborough +House—Mdme. d'Estournelles and Florian came in afterward +to tell me about it; also Mme. de Bille (wife +of the Danish Minister), she is an American, née Zabriskie. +They said there was a great crowd, and such a +hedge of loyal subjects around the Royalties that it was +almost impossible to see them even. Princess of Monaco +(née Heine), who was with the Court (her husband +being a "prince regnant," of a minute principality certainly), +made a sign to Countess de Florian to come and +speak to her, and she also had quite a talk with Princess +Amélie of Schleswig Holstein, cousin of the German +Emperor, whom she had known as a girl in Pau, when +her father, Marquis de Nadaillac, was Préfet there. +Staal came in late, and hopes that W. will come back +(he is always such a good colleague). He thinks it will +make a bad effect, the French Ambassador being the +only one absent. He thinks he ought to come over +for the breakfast at the Mansion House, which is strictly +official, and where the Emperor will probably make a +speech. I will write to him to-night and tell him what +they all say.</p> + +<p class="author">Friday, July 10th.</p> + +<p>I rode this morning with Pontavice, the Military Attaché, +and just missed the Emperor, who was riding with +six or seven officers, all in uniform, which seems strange, +as the officers never wear uniform except when they are +on duty. We sometimes see the officer of the day riding +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_327" title="pg 327"> </a> +in the Row in uniform, but never any other. In Paris it +is quite different; all the officers of the Paris garrison, +which is a very large one, always ride in uniform in the +Bois in the morning. I went to the War Office afterward +to see the Emperor, Empress, and Prince and +Princess pass on their way to the Lord Mayor's banquet. +The display of troops was rather mesquin—the Grenadiers +standing so far apart that there were groups of +street boys in between. The Royalties were fairly applauded +(the Prince and Princess are always whenever +they appear). The Emperor was in a white uniform, +but his helmet is so big and heavy and so low on his face +that one could hardly see him. Francis and I dined +quietly at the Russian Embassy, and the Staals told us +all about the various fêtes. They said the getting away +from the Mansion House was awful—when the gentlemen +of the household were trying to make a passage for +the Princess of Wales there was a general skirmish, one +of the ladies of the Corps Diplomatique was struck on +the shoulder by one of the gentlemen, and there was a +fine row—the husband of the lady furious, the unfortunate +equerry protesting, saying he was incapable of +such an enormity, etc. However, excuses were made +and peace restored.</p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, July 11th.</p> + +<p>I rode this morning with Pontavice, and we met the +Emperor, also riding, several times; but he did <em>not</em> recognise +me this time in my habit. He had six or seven officers +with him and two grooms. All the officers, the +Emperor also, in uniform, and wearing those long German +sabres that hang loose and make a great clatter. +They all rode at a gallop and set all the horses in the Row +by the ears. I really had some trouble with my quiet animal, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_328" title="pg 328"> </a> +who was jumping and kicking all over the place. I +had several visits at tea-time. My windows and balconies +giving on the Park are most attractive, as there +are quantities of people about—a sort of general excitement +in the air, and royal carriages and soldiers passing +all the time. D'Estournelles came in and told me about +the review. He said the troops looked splendid, but the +arrangements were very bad—no seats reserved—he and +his wife and many ladies standing all the time. Mme. +d'Estournelles was dead tired and had gone home to bed. +W. came back for dinner; he looks grave and sad. We +sat on the balcony after dinner while he smoked. He +said he must go to the luncheon at Hatfield for the Emperor +and Empress. As long as he was Ambassador, he +had no right to let any private grief prevent his taking +part in a public function, particularly in this case, when +his absence might be misconstrued.</p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, July 18th.</p> + +<p>I went this afternoon to consult some of my colleagues +about my dress for Hatfield. Of course I am in deep +mourning, and I didn't know if I could meet Royalties in +black. At some Courts, Russia for instance, black is not +allowed—when people are in mourning they wear white. +After various consultations, I decided that I would go in +my black dress; so I have had some lace put on top of +the flounce of "crépon de laine," which is really very deep +mourning.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author">Tuesday, July 19, 1891.</p> + +<p>We had a most interesting day at Hatfield, and evidently +we were right in going. We went down by a +special, W. in deep mourning, I in my black crépon, my +big pearls in my ears and around my neck, a little crêpe +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_329" title="pg 329"> </a> +bonnet (with a soupçon of jet) and an ordinary dotted +tulle veil. All our colleagues were most empressés and +nice—said it had been so strange not to see either of us +at any of the fêtes. There were, as usual, a certain number +of young men, sons of the house, secretaries, etc., at +the station at Hatfield; plenty of carriages, and in a few +minutes we were at the house. We passed straight +through the rooms to the terrace, where a very smart +company was assembled. Some of the young women in +white satin and lace, high bodices of course, all very +much dressed, and all with necklaces and jewels on their +corsages. No one in particular received us. Lady Salisbury +was driving with the Empress, Lord Salisbury talking +with the Prince of Wales, and the Emperor riding. +(The Salisburys had an enormous house party, all arrived +the night before for dinner—the Emperor and Empress +with their suite, also the Prince and Princess and +theirs.) I was strolling about the terrace with Countess +Deym when we came suddenly upon the Princess of +Wales, walking about with her "Kodak" and looking +about 25 in her simple grey foulard and big black hat. +As we went up to speak to her, she made us a sign to +stop, saying "I want you in my picture." We talked to +her a little while and then she said she must go and make +herself "smart" for the lunch-party. There was still +some time before there was any sign of Princes—or +lunch. Mr. Barrington asked us to stand near the perron, +as he had charge of the placing of the people. The +Emperor and Empress appeared first, and immediately +made a sort of cercle. Lady Salisbury presented me at +once to the Empress, and she was most amiable, regretted +not having seen me at the reception at Buckingham Palace, +adding, "J'ai vu toutes vos jeunes femmes, plus jolies +les unes que les autres." The Emperor, too, was easy and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_330" title="pg 330"> </a> +pleasant, but so many people were brought up to him all +the time that he couldn't talk much. It was interesting +to watch him. He was of course <em>the</em> central figure, and +there is always a certain curiosity as to what he will do. +He holds himself very straight, has a stern face and +rather a stiff manner, not particularly gracious, speaks +English of course perfectly well (in fact looks like an +Englishman, particularly in ordinary dress—of course +the uniform changes him a little). I think he knew about +everybody who was presented to him; soldiers, statesmen, +artists, and seemed to be interested in the very short +talks he had with each one. He and W. had quite a talk, +and he again expressed his regret at not having seen him +before, and also for the cause which had kept him away. +The Prince and Princess stood about on the terrace while +all the presentations were going on, talking to their +friends. After about half an hour there was a move to +the great dining-hall. I think there were about 150 +guests. The Royalties and swells lunched in the great +hall at small tables of ten, and the others in the ordinary +dining-room. I was at Lord Salisbury's table, who took +in the Empress; the Prince took me; Hatzfeldt (German +Ambassador) Mdme. de Staal; Rustem (Turkish Ambassador) +Princess Maud; Soveral (Portuguese Minister) +Countess Spencer. At Lady Salisbury's table were +the Emperor, Princess, Staal, W., etc. The talk was +fairly easy at our table—Hatzfeldt said to me rather +pointedly, "Je suis très heureux de vous voir ici aujourd'hui, +Madame Waddington." The Prince also said we +were quite right to come. I said I thought my plain +black dress was rather out of place at such a brilliant +entertainment, but he assured me it was quite correct.</p> + +<p>About half way through luncheon came the pearl necklace +incident (which you saw in the papers). I suddenly +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_331" title="pg 331"> </a> +felt that my necklace was unclasped. It was sewed on +the corsage in front, as the pearls are large and heavy, +and I am always afraid of breaking the string. I asked +Soveral, who was next to me, if he couldn't clasp it for +me. He tried, but was nervous or awkward; at any rate +couldn't manage it, and we were both getting red and +flustered when suddenly we heard the Emperor from his +table calling W.'s attention to the fact that "le Portugal +était en train d'étrangler la France"; also Staal, saying +that his "Collègue du Portugal se livrait à une gymnastique +étrange." They all made various jokes at my expense, +and the Prince said "Let me do it," but he couldn't +either, and again we heard the Emperor remarking, +"Maintenant c'est plus sérieux—l'Angleterre s'en mêle." +W., who had his back to me and who couldn't see what +was going on, was decidedly mystified, and wondered +what on earth I was doing to attract so much attention, +in fact was rather annoyed. When we got up from table +the Prince and I retreated to a corner of the terrace, and +he cut the stitches that held the necklace in front with his +knife (which again looked funny to the people assembled +on the terrace). He advised me to put the pearls, <em>not</em> in +my pocket, but in a safe place, as they were very handsome, +so I put them <em>inside</em> my dress. Of course everybody +asked me what had happened, and what the Emperor +was saying to me from the other table. I asked the +Empress if she was never afraid of losing her pearls, but +she said all her jewels were most carefully sewn on and +strung on a very thick string or sort of silk cord.</p> + +<p>Very soon after lunch the Emperor and Empress left, +as they were starting in the evening for Germany, and +had to go to Windsor to take leave of the Queen. The +Prince and Princess followed quickly, and then, of course, +all of us. W. had again a talk with the Emperor, and all +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_332" title="pg 332"> </a> +his colleagues told him he was quite right to come. Any +little incident between France and Germany always assumes +gigantic proportions, and the papers, both French +and German, would have been full of the <em>marked</em> absence +of the French Ambassador from all the fêtes for +the Emperor; his mourning a pretext, etc. It was a beautiful +entertainment—bright, perfect summer day, quantities +of pretty women beautifully dressed (a great many +in white) and representative people of all kinds. The +general impression was that the Emperor was not a +lady's man—he evidently preferred talking to army and +political men. My talk with him was so perfectly banal +that I can scarcely have an opinion, but I should think +one might talk to him easily. His face is certainly stern, +and the manner very cold, but his smile, like the Queen's, +lights up and softens the face. I said to one of the +pretty young women who had made a luncheon-party for +him, that I had heard that it was beautifully done, and +that he was much pleased. She said she hoped he was, +that as far as she personally was concerned he hadn't the +slightest idea whether she was 25 or 50.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +January 12, 1892.</p> + +<p>W. and I came over yesterday in a snowstorm. +It was beastly getting out of the train and on the +boat at Calais. I am rather depressed, having left Francis +behind at a professor's near the Lycée Janson, to +follow the cours there as externe. I shall miss him +frightfully, but it was quite time for him to go to France +and go through the regular course. He was forgetting +his French here. Of course he and his father always +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_333" title="pg 333"> </a> +speak French to each other, but he went to a little English +school, Miss Quirim's, in Sloane Street (where +there were quantities of little friends beginning their education), +played all day with English children, heard +nothing else spoken around him, and was rapidly becoming +an Englishman. The house seems dreadfully quiet +without him, and poor little Bonny, the fox-terrier, is +miserable. He couldn't think why he wasn't with us to-day +on our journey and galloped up to his room as soon +as he arrived at the Embassy, asking everybody really +with his eyes where his master was. Florian came in at +once to see us, and told us that the Duke of Clarence was +frightfully ill at Sandringham. He always looked rather +delicate, tall and slight and colourless, but I hope his +youth will pull him through. He had been rather more +en évidence these last months since his engagement to +Princess May, daughter of Princess Mary, Duchess of +Teck. I think it is a marriage that pleases the nation. +Princess May is young and pretty, with a pretty figure +and essentially English—born and brought up in the +country. Everybody adores her mother, Princess Mary, +and I think it will be a very happy marriage.</p> + +<p class="author">January 13, 1892.</p> + +<p>I am afraid there is no chance for the poor young +Prince. Florian came in for a moment, just back from +Marlborough House, where the bulletins are posted twice +a day. There were crowds of people reading them and +trying to get some detailed information. Florian saw +one of the equerries, who told him there was no hope, he +was sinking fast and would probably not live through +the night. He told him the Princess never left him and +was heart-broken, her eldest boy. It is hard for her. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_334" title="pg 334"> </a> +They seem to think it was a neglected cold, caught out +shooting, and not taken in time. All the personnel came +in to see me and brought their New Year's present—4 +pretty corbeilles for bonbons. They always give me +something New Year's Day and I am much pleased to +have the souvenirs. I can hardly realise that we have +been here nearly 9 years. We came in '83 and thought +we should stay perhaps two years. I am so accustomed +to the life now that I feel as if I had always spent half +the year in England and the other half in France. I suppose +I shall miss a great many things when we retire into +private life, perhaps most of all the family life with all +the personnel of the Embassy. We have had various +changes, of course, but I generally pull well with them +all, and I must say they are always ready to help me in +every way. I haven't had too many women, which is +pleasant; women are much more complicated to deal with +than men—there are always so many small jealousies +and rivalries.</p> + +<p class="author">Thursday, January 14, 1892.</p> + +<p>The poor young Duke is dead at 9 o'clock this morning, +in spite of all that tender nursing and skill could do. +He had not strength to fight against the malady. It is +awfully hard at his age and in his position; just now, +too, when his marriage was so popular. Florian came +at once to tell us, and said there was such a crowd outside +Marlborough House that he could hardly get through +into the court, where the policeman showed him the +Prince of Wales's telegram, "All is over." We had +various visits at tea-time; Deym among others, who had +done just what we did—sent telegrams to the Prince +and Princess and the Tecks at Sandringham. He told +me he had dined at White Lodge with the Tecks on +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_335" title="pg 335"> </a> +Christmas Eve (for their Christmas tree) and that they +were all so happy. Princess Mary took him upstairs and +showed him all the presents—coupons of velvet, brocade, +etc., for dresses, also the wedding dress, and said to him, +"Je suis si heureuse que j'en ai peur." Poor thing; perhaps +it was a presentiment. I am awfully sorry for them, +for her perhaps more than for Princess May, who is +young and must of course get over it, as youth happily +is elastic and rebounds; but Princess Mary is different. +She has her share of worries and disappointments, and +she was so happy and proud of the marriage. It must +be an awful blow to her.</p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, January 19, 1892.</p> + +<p>I went to the little church behind the Embassy this +morning and am very sorry now that I didn't go to St. +Paul's, where there was a fine service—the organ playing +the Dead March in Saul, and all the congregation +standing, a good many women crying, all in black. +It was impressive in the little church—everyone in black. +There is a general mourning ordered for three weeks, +and Court mourning for six (which is a shorter time +than I thought). (I send on a sheet apart what I would +like you to order for me. I have nothing black but my +black satin evening dress, which fortunately is all black, +no white, lace, or colour). They sang the funeral hymn +"Labourer, thy work is o'er," the first time I had ever +heard it, and beautiful it was; read the prayer for the +"Royal Family in affliction," and one for the influenza—which +surprised me, as I should not have thought the +epidemic was bad enough for that. The sermon, of +course, was all about Prince Eddie and the young life +cut short. It was very simple and earnest and the congregation +certainly felt and showed great sympathy. I +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_336" title="pg 336"> </a> +went for a short turn in the Park afterward and walked +about a little with Henry Edwardes and his children. +He is rather down, poor fellow, as his congé drags on +and they seem in no hurry at the Foreign Office to give +him another post. I believe he didn't get on very well +with his last chief, and of course all chiefs are not commodes, +but equally of course when there comes a question +the secretary is <em>always</em> in the wrong. Edwardes is +very clever and cultivated. W. thinks him an excellent +agent. In Paris he always knew what was going on, +and knew so many people of all kinds.</p> + +<p>This afternoon I had my usual Sunday visits—principally +diplomatists this time, and all talking about Prince +Eddie's funeral. It seems a pity they don't make a grand +military funeral, the procession passing through London. +There was such a striking outburst of sympathy and +loyalty when his death was announced that the people +would have been glad to associate themselves with the +last rites. They don't invite all the Chefs de Mission to +the funeral at Windsor (which also seems strange, Prince +Eddie being the heir), merely those of the "Cours apparentées." +That will take in Hatzfeldt, German Ambassador; +Staal, Russian; de Bille, Danish Minister; +Gennadius, Greece; Soveral, Portugese; and Solvyns, +Belgian. All the others go to a special service at St. +James's Chapel, in uniform.</p> + +<p class="author">Wednesday, January 20, 1892.</p> + +<p>To-day is the funeral. Our flag is half-mast, and all +the windows shut in the drawing-rooms. It is mild +and damp, but not cold. Mdme. de Florian and I have +been driving about this afternoon to have an impression +of the streets. All the shops are shut, blinds down +in all the houses, flags at half-mast, and everyone in +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_337" title="pg 337"> </a> +black. Some of the hansom cab drivers with bits of +black ribbon or stuff on their whips, and everybody looks +grave. I can't help thinking it was a pity not to let the +people participate in the mourning and feel they were +taking some part. In these days of democracy one +should take any chance of strengthening the feeling of +loyalty. W. went off in uniform, with crêpe on sleeve +and sword hilt, at 3, to the service at the Chapel Royal, +St. James's, which seems to have been rather mild. The +diplomatists (4 Ambassadors), Chefs de Mission, were +received by Mr. Eric Barrington, Lord Salisbury's secretary; +Mr. Thomas Sanderson, and Colonel Chaine.</p> + +<p>W. dined in the evening with Hilda, to meet Count +Seckendorff and Bülow, who had come over from Germany +to the funeral. They said the service was very +simple and impressive, and that the Prince of Wales and +Prince George looked badly, the Prince of Wales much +agitated. Seckendorff said he could just manage to speak +to them when they all filed past him after the ceremony. +The Princesses were all in the chapel in a sort of gallery. +Quite at the end the Prince stepped forward and laid a +white wreath (given by Princess May) on the coffin.</p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, January 30, 1892.</p> + +<p>It is still very mild and damp, rather dismal weather, +and the streets are depressing, everyone in black—the +mourning is very general, not at all confined to the fashionable +world. Mdme. de Florian and I drove out to +White Lodge, and cheerless it looked, so lonely and sad +with the black winter trees all around the house. We +did not see either of the Princesses; they were in London, +but Teck came out to speak to us. I never saw him appear +so well—he was so simple and distressed for his +daughter. He said she was very quiet, but perfectly +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_338" title="pg 338"> </a> +heart-broken, and that he had always had a presentiment +that something would happen—everything had gone too +smoothly. He said the coming back there after the +funeral was something too awful—all the wedding presents +and stuffs and laces scattered about the rooms—letters +and telegrams of congratulation, bouquets of white +flowers, in fact all the preparations for a wedding; and +at the same time people waiting to try on mourning—telegrams +of condolence, etc. What a tragedy! He said +he had no hope from the first. Prince Eddie was struck +down at once, and he didn't think the Princess of Wales +ever had a gleam of hope. She never left her boy until +all was over.</p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author">Wednesday, February 10, 1892.</p> + +<p>I went as usual to have tea with the Countess de +Bylandt this afternoon, who receives always Wednesday. +She always has plenty of people and one has a pleasant +hour. She was worried about her husband to-day, who is +ill. He is not very young and I should think has always +been delicate. He is Dutch Minister, and has been here +for years. She is a Russian born, very clever and amusing. +We dined with Baron Gevers, Dutch Secretary, at the +new restaurant or club, l'Amphytrion, which is supposed +to be the best and dearest in London. It is kept by Émile, +a well-known Parisian. We were a <em>young</em> party, the +Florians, St. Genys, and the Lataings (Belgian Legation). +The dinner was excellent, certainly—Émile knew +that his Ambassador was coming and had done his best. +He was always hovering about the table to see that all +was right, and we complimented him very much on the +way everything was cooked and served. I said to him +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_339" title="pg 339"> </a> +that he had very good material in London to work upon, +to which he replied, with magnificent contempt for anything +that was not French—"Il n'y a pas de marché à +Londres, je fais venir tout de Paris." When one thinks +of Covent Garden, with its piles of splendid salmon, +haunches of venison, hot-house fruits, grapes, pine-apples, +and <em>primeurs</em> of all kinds, the answer was amusing. +We went upstairs for coffee and cigarettes and had +a very pleasant evening. It is so good for W. to be +with young people occasionally. He talked a great deal, +and the young men were interested in some of his Cambridge +reminiscences.</p> + +<p class="author">Thursday, February 11, 1892.</p> + +<p>It is still quite mild. After breakfast I went with +Hilda to the British Museum to hear a young Oxonian +lady lecture on Greek Antiquities and the Eleusinian +Mysteries. She did it very easily—a pretty, cultivated +voice and very distinct pronunciation. The lecture lasted +about an hour. She had all sorts of photographs of bas-reliefs, +statues, paintings, etc., and it was very interesting, +much more so than I expected, as Greek antiquities +are not much in my line. After the lecture was over, +Mr. Thomson, the director of the Museum (a charming +man), came to get us and showed us as much as we +could see before 4, when it gets dark and the Museum is +shut. The reading-room and library are enormous, and +for London very light. The collection of missals, autographs, +etc., is splendid. Some of the old, old missals +so beautiful still, the colours so wonderfully preserved. +We went to Mr. Thomson's room in the Museum building +for tea. His daughter was there and gave us very +good tea and muffins. Altogether we had a most interesting +afternoon. We dined with Mrs. Mitford (widow of +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_340" title="pg 340"> </a> +Percy Mitford, diplomatist). She has a very pretty and +original house and is a very easy hostess, having lived +much abroad. She is a great friend of Princess Mary and +told me I ought to go and see her. Mr. Lincoln, the +American Minister, was there, and we all teased him +about the Presidential election (the papers say he is to be +the next President). Mdme. de Bille and I told him we +were racking our brains to think what we could ask him +for our friends at home when he would be at the White +House. He assured us there was no possible chance of +it, and no one would be as sorry as he himself if ever the +thing came to pass. It certainly would be difficult to be +a second President Lincoln.</p> + +<p class="author">Friday, February 19, 1892.</p> + +<p>It is still very cold, snow lying on the ground (in +the parks), which is rare in London. I have just had +a little note from Princess Mary, asking me to come and +see her on Sunday at White Lodge, as she leaves early +in the week for the Riviera. Wolff came in late to ask +me if I would take him out to White Lodge, as Princess +Mary had also written to him to come. He had his violin, +so he played for about an hour, and most enchanting +it was. I occasionally forgot about the accompaniment, +listening to his beautiful long notes. He didn't mind, +was standing in the middle of the room (playing by +heart) and went on quite serenely until I caught him up +somewhere and went on again. I dined quietly with +Jean (as W. had a man's dinner at one of the clubs) +and we made music all the evening. She is very busy +translating a German book, Lady Blennerhasset's "Life +of Madame de Staël." It looked easy at first, but I fancy +is rather a formidable undertaking, as Lady B. has a very +distinct style—very German, and I should think it must +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_341" title="pg 341"> </a> +lose in translation. She had rather come to grief over +one page. I looked over it, and said I didn't find it <em>very</em> +difficult, and I know German well, upon which she replied, +"Please read it out to me, then, in good English." +I began, but came to grief at once. I had got the meaning +right enough in my head, but couldn't at all express +it at once in correct or fluent English, and I don't know +that a dictionary would have helped me much. It was +more the turn of the phrase and a peculiar form of expression.</p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, February 21, 1892.</p> + +<p>It is very mild to-day—a complete thaw. Wolff came +to breakfast, also Mdme. de Florian, and we drove out to +White Lodge for tea. It was pleasant enough driving, +as there was no wind, but the park and place looked +dreary. I had always seen it so gay, with so many young +people about, that I could hardly realise that it was the +same house. We were expected—two or three footmen +in deep mourning were at the door and took us at once +to the drawing-room. In a few minutes the three appeared: +father, mother, and daughter. I was rather +nervous, but they were so natural, it was such real grief, +that we felt quite at our ease, and so sorry for them all. +Princess May looked lovely. She has grown much thinner, +and the long black dress covered with crêpe, with +the white collar and cuffs (that all widows wear in England), +was most becoming. Her complexion was beautiful, +so delicate, and her eyes had that peculiar bright +look that one sees in people who have cried a great deal. +Before tea I had a long talk with Princess Mary, who +said that it all seemed a dream—the first days at White +Lodge, when the young couple were so happy, making +all sorts of plans, for their future seemed so bright and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_342" title="pg 342"> </a> +brilliant; so convinced that long years of happiness and +usefulness were before them that she was frightened +sometimes, and used to tell them that there would be great +cares and responsibilities in their position, and that they +must both help each other as much as they could (she +said Prince Eddie was naturally timid, and rather disposed +to underrate his intelligence). Then came the +sudden change. Those terrible days at Sandringham, +where she hoped against hope, and then the coming back +to White Lodge, which must have been heart-breaking. +I only said a few words to Princess May as we were +going away, but Mdme. de Florian had some talk with +her. She said she felt stunned—could hardly believe that +all was over, but that she must try and take up her life +again. "It will be very hard; I suppose I was too happy."</p> + +<p>They are starting at once for the South, and I hope it +will do her good. Various people came in, among others +Mrs. Mitford, who is a devoted friend of the Tecks, and +so sorry for them. She said it was melancholy to see +them the first days after they got back to White Lodge. +All the presents had to be put away or sent back; all the +letters and telegrams sorted and put away, and that +Princess May moved about like a ghost.</p> + +<p>We had a quiet evening until some late telegrams came +announcing a Ministerial crisis in France, for nothing +apparently. W. and his secretaries were disgusted. +There are so many changes in France, and we never +know who is coming to the Foreign Office. I think it +is time for us to go back. We have been away a long +time, and it isn't good for a man to live too much out +of his own country.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_343" title="pg 343"> </a></p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +Wednesday, February 24, 1892.</p> + +<p>It is very cold and foggy this morning, impossible to +ride; we see all the grooms exercising the saddle horses +in the Park. I went for tea as usual to Mdme. de Bylandt. +He is still in his bed, and very bad I imagine. This evening +we have been to "Venice," the great show at Olympia. +We went a family party (Embassy), Florians, St. Genys, +Pontavice, d'Agoult. It is really very prettily done; you +must see it when you come over. We had a capital box +directly in the centre of the house, but the director, hearing +we were there, came to pay us a visit, and transferred +us to the Royal box, which is very large and comfortable—seats +twenty people easily. He sent us some ices, and +said he would have two gondolas waiting at the end of +the performance to take us through the lagoons. The +performance was a sort of ballet—very pretty girls well +got up in Venetian costume, very artistically grouped, +and quantities of colour. As soon as it was over we +went down to the "Canal," where we found two gondolas, +the real thing, with Venetian gondoliers, who were +much pleased when I spoke Italian to them. We went +all around the show, passing under the Bridge of Sighs, +and finally wound up at a Neapolitan café, where they +were playing and singing all the well-known Italian +songs, "Santa Lucia," "Bella Napoli," etc. Florian of +course found a friend, one of the singers, who recognised +him, having seen him in Rome when she was singing +there; so of course we all fraternised, and we stayed +there some time listening to all the familiar songs and +accompaniment of guitar and mandoline. We had quite +the impression of having spent our evening in Italy. W. +was much amused when we told him of Florian's "connaissance," +as he always says he knows more people than +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_344" title="pg 344"> </a> +anyone he has ever seen, and is related to half France. +He is always going to some cousin's funeral in Paris. +French people are so particular about funerals—never +fail to pay that last respect to their dead friends; also +wear mourning much more than we do. They are constantly +in real mourning (not merely fancy black) for +three weeks or a month, for a very distant cousin.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +Monday, March 9, 1892.</p> + +<p>It is cold and snowing, not a very pleasant day for +our excursion to Herkomer's studio, in the country; however, +I had a line from Hilda saying they were quite +willing to go if I didn't mind the weather, so I consulted +with Lecomte, one of the secretaries who was going with +us, and we thought we would go. It would be very difficult +for me to find another day, as London is filling up +for its avant-saison, and we have quantities of engagements. +We met the Deichmanns at the station, and there +discovered that we had 40 minutes to wait, so we breakfasted +there in the big dining-room, and it wasn't bad +at all. Deichmann knows everybody and is well known +at Euston—so thanks to him we had a really excellent +breakfast (and it turned out very well, as we only got +to Herkomer's for tea, and we should have been half +starved). We had about three-quarters of an hour by rail +to our destination, Bushey, in the county of Herts. It +was bright and beautiful when we got to the station, but +the trees were white with frost and snow everywhere. +We found our host in a temporary installation. He is +building himself an enormous castle, and all the work, +stone-cutting, wood-carving, painting, etc., is done on the +spot by his pupils, Herkomer himself superintending and +directing everything. He is most interesting; full of all +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_345" title="pg 345"> </a> +sorts of knowledge and fancies. We went over the studios +and saw everything. Some dull red wood they were +using came from America he told me—I forget the +name of the tree, I think a Californian. It would have +amused you to see the eager, intelligent faces of the +young workmen, especially when Herkomer was going +about explaining his ideas and criticising or encouraging. +It reminded me rather of an evening at Wilhelmj's (the +great violinist) long ago in Germany. He had a villa +near my sister-in-law's, Mdme. Charles de Bunsen, at +Mosbach, near Biebrich-am-Rhein. We all went over +there one night to a musical party when I was staying +with my sister. His house was most artistically arranged, +all "Alt Deutsch," with an enormous music-room. +He was waiting for us there surrounded by all +his pupils, about 10, with their violins and music-stands, +and all looking so eager and anxious to begin. He +played himself quite beautifully, and when he was accompanied +by all the others it was a very pretty sight, he in +the middle and all the young ones around him with their +eyes fixed on him. He was one of Wagner's right-hand +men and played often with him. They played among +other things the prelude of "Parsifal," which haunted +me for days afterward. You can't imagine anything +more divine than those beautiful long notes of his and +the soft arpeggio accompaniments of the violins. I +couldn't hear anything else afterward. Someone asked +him to play Schubert's "Ave Maria," which he did of +course beautifully, but it sounded so tame after the other, +which I told him; but he said I was quite wrong, that +Schubert had written beautiful things, so melodious. All +the same, I would have preferred remaining with the +impression of that wonderful prelude. What reminded +me of all this was the same sort of cadre—"Maître et +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_346" title="pg 346"> </a> +apprentis," for Herkomer is quite the old-fashioned embodiment +of the "Master" with his pupils. We had tea +in the studio, where there were some fine portraits. I +think I like his men better than his women. It is so difficult +to make an interesting picture of a man in ordinary +everyday dress. Herkomer has certainly succeeded in +making some wonderful pictures, without uniform, or +costume, or colour of any kind to appeal to the imagination. +We got back late for dinner. I was rather tired +and cold after my long day—we had started early, and I +persuaded W. with some difficulty to go to Lord Salisbury's +reception without me. However, he rather enjoyed +himself. He didn't get much farther than the +door, where he remained talking with Lady Salisbury, +which he always likes. I don't think he was away more +than an hour.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +March 28, 1892.</p> + +<p>We had a nice canter this morning. There were a +good many people out. We had a pleasant dinner last +night at Lady Winifred Gardner's, one of those curious +mixtures one only sees in London. The Brownlows, +Lord Carrington, Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, Hare the +actor and his wife, also various stray men. I found Mr. +and Mrs. Gladstone both much changed—much older—but +he is marvellous—talked, eat, and drank like a man +of 50. Hare talked a great deal, and a great deal to W., +who found him clever and original.</p> + +<p class="author">Wednesday, 30th.</p> + +<p>Well, my Dear, I opened my bazaar yesterday, and you +will be surprised to hear that I was rather nervous—only +for one moment, I must say, when they asked me, after +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_347" title="pg 347"> </a> +one or two speeches and a little "Marseillaise," if I would +pronounce the sacramental phrase and declare the bazaar +open. I, with the committee, was seated in a red chair +on the platform. When I got up (the only person standing) +and saw the crowd of faces beneath me looking +hard at me, for a moment I was shy, but that didn't last. +They all cheered me, so I recovered myself and made my +statement, I think in a clear voice. W. jibed at me well +afterward when I told him. I made a tour of the bazaar, +buying something at each stall, Lecomte bringing up the +rear, carrying a large doll. Do you remember what Lasteyrie +used to say when he was W.'s Chef de Cabinet at +l'Instruction Publique—that one of his principal functions +was to accompany Madame Waddington to all the +"Ventes de Charité" carrying a "paquet de chemises de +femme," which means that I get so tired of all the fancy +boxes, and pin-cushions, and screens I accumulate at the +various sales that I finally asked for "layettes" and "vêtements +de pauvres." Of course I can never have too +many in the country. I was amused to hear one of my +friends here who collects for the numerous "guilds" dilate +upon the <em>smallness</em> of the objects sent her. She says +she receives dresses and "brassières" (a sort of body +with sleeves) that would go on <em>no</em> child of any age that +she has ever seen. It is rather my own experience—people +usually give me very minute garments, also in the +most delicate colours, and my children work in the fields +and at the "tourbières."</p> + +<p>After we had visited all the stalls we had tea (not in +a private room) at a round table at one end of the hall +near the buffet. M. Dupoutet de la Harpe, the Protestant +pasteur who got up the bazaar, explaining that the +people would so like to see us. I am always very dressy +on those occasions, so I was dressed in black satin with +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_348" title="pg 348"> </a> +a great deal of jet, and light blue feathers in my bonnet. +I had just time to get home, have some tea, and see that +my "orgue Mustel" had arrived and was properly placed +and tuned to go with the piano, and to assist at a small +rehearsal with M. Guillemain (organist at La Trinité +in Paris), for whom I am having a dinner to-night, Mérindol, +and Miss Stuart, an American girl who has a fine +voice. The "orgue Mustel" is small and looks like a +harmonium, but it has wonderful tones, particularly +when played by a master hand like Guillemain's.</p> + +<p>My dinner interested <em>me</em> very much—I hope the guests +had the same impression. I called it my "dinner of organists," +and I tried to get as many of the great English +organists as possible, but only two came (the notice was +short), Dr. Stainer of St. Paul's and Dr. Bridge of +Westminster Abbey. Both have splendid instruments, +and it is a great pleasure to stay sometimes after a week-day +service and hear a fugue rolling through those great +vaulted aisles. I had only asked musical people, and +warned them that it was <em>serious</em>. We were 24 at dinner, +and about 100 in the evening. The music was in the +ballroom and the organ sounded very well, quite a volume +of sound. Guillemain played, of course, beautifully +and made it give all it could. The duos, organ and piano, +were charming. Miss Stuart sang very well. I found +Dr. Bridge most sympathetic. He and Florence Williams +made great friends, and he promised to play her a +gavotte whenever she likes if she would dance. I think +you would have liked the evening—it wasn't banal. Staal +was sympathetic and interested, and asked me what was +the next original entertainment I was contemplating.</p> +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_349" title="pg 349"> </a></p> + +<p class="author">Wednesday, 31st.</p> + +<p>We have rather a worrying letter from Henrietta this +morning saying their house in Paris was watched by the +police, having been threatened by the dynamiters on account +of a judge who lives in the house. All the locataires +are leaving, and she is bothered, and wants to +know what she must do with Francis (who always goes +to her Thursday and Sunday). I want W. to write to +the Préfet de Police to ask for an extra man, but he +doesn't seem to attach importance to it—says no harm +ever comes when a thing is announced beforehand. I +can't help feeling uncomfortable.</p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S</em>.</h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +April 3, 1892.</p> + +<p>It is rather nice to-day. After breakfast we drove +down to Battersea Park, not a very fashionable resort, +and walked about along the river, which is always alive—boats, +barges, steamers, children in battered old scows +that look as if they would break in two on the smallest +provocation, and loungers of all kinds, some fishing, +most doing nothing and keeping up a running fire of chaff +and criticisms. The river life plays a great part in London—the +Thames is such a thoroughfare all about London, +and a beautiful pleasure ground higher up by Maidenhead, +Clieveden, etc. We dined this evening at Lady +Mary Lloyd's. She sang very well after dinner, and +we went later to Lady Ashburton's, who has a beautiful +house crammed with pictures and curios of all kinds. +She had a concert of "old music" with old instruments—spinet, +viola, viol d'amour, etc. It was interesting in +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_350" title="pg 350"> </a> +its way as a souvenir, but sounded weak and <em>tinkly</em>. In +these days of great orchestras no one would listen to it.</p> + +<p class="author">Easter Tuesday, April 19, 1892.</p> + +<p>I am delighted to have Henrietta and Francis, the +boy's first holidays since he has been in Paris, and he is +enjoying himself extremely. He rides with his father +every morning, and goes about all day with his friends. +We are busy getting up a "toy symphony"—Mlle. Levisohn, +Francis's piano mistress, organises it. Francis has +the piano, Comte Vinci, our Roman friend (who plays +extremely well), is first violin; a little boy, a friend of +Mlle. Levisohn's, the 2nd, and the minor instruments are +distributed among all the children, Edwardes, Lawrence, +Billes, Deichmann, etc. We gave young Bille, son of +the Danish Minister, the drum—but the unfortunate boy +could do nothing with it, and his mother said he must +have some lessons. I applied to Pontavice (our Military +Attaché), who said he was sure one of his friends, an +officer in the Guards, would arrange it for me, so accordingly +there appeared one morning a gentleman (Mr. +Lloyd, I think) who said his friend, Comte de Pontavice, +had told him that I wished to have some lessons on the +drum, and that the drum-major of the regiment was +quite at my service. I hastily explained that the lessons +were not for me, but for a young friend who was to +play that instrument in a toy symphony. He didn't +seem at all surprised at my wishing to learn to play the +drum, and yet I can't help thinking that he hadn't often +been applied to for lessons on the drum for an Ambassadress. +He promised to send his man to the Danish +Legation, and Mdme. de Bille told me that all the +household was upset, and the maids distracted by the +magnificent drum-major who came three or four times, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_351" title="pg 351"> </a> +and retired to a sort of basement, where he and the boy +rattled away on the drum. If I had ever imagined what +an undertaking it was, I never should have agreed to +the performance. The principal instruments, piano and +violins, were all right, but all the small ones, quails, +nightingales, and cuckoos (oh, the cuckoos!) were something +awful. The children distracted (sometimes they +had 25 measures to count), the mammas and governesses +equally so, and the impartial assistants (who had no children +taking part) remarking to me with absolute frankness +that it was the most awful noise they had ever heard. +Comte Vinci, first violin, was a tower of strength, and +kept them all in order. It is awfully good of him to come +and play with all those children.</p> + +<p class="author">Friday, April 22, 1892.</p> + +<p>I will write you about the performance at once, as I +am too tired to do anything else, and have dined quietly +at home. We had a last répétition this morning—Mlle. +Levisohn directing from a small platform covered with +red cloth. For the first time I thought it would go—really +almost all the instruments were in tune and in +time. Francis had been giving private rehearsals all the +morning to Wilhelm Deichmann (trumpet) and the +child, I forget which one, that had the triangle. The +performance began at 4, and the orchestra was most +effective. All the young ladies were in white and the +men in dress clothes and white boutonnières. It was +killing to see all eyes fixed upon Mlle. Levisohn as she +stood on her platform with her baton raised. It really +went extremely well. Pfeffer happened in, and said he +had never heard the Romberg Symphony better given. +After the music was over Francis and Hilda Deichmann +played a little comedy, "La Souris," really very well—Mdme. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_352" title="pg 352"> </a> +Thénard had coached them both. They weren't +at all shy, and looked funny perched on chairs, standing, +afraid of an imaginary mouse. They wound up with a +dance, Gevers leading a most spirited cotillon. Francis +danced with Nannie, who looked very pretty. He was +very proud of his American cousin. Mlle. Levisohn had +many compliments, and I think she was pleased. She +certainly took no end of trouble.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +Thursday, April 28th.</p> + +<p>I had a nice ride this morning with Pontavice. W. +and Francis went off on Monday—W. to Laon and +Francis to school. Last night Henrietta and I went to +the Italian Embassy, where there was a contract party +for Tornielli's niece, who is to marry the Marquis Paulucci, +one of the secretaries. The fiancée looked charming +in pink satin, with a very pretty diamond tiara that +her uncle had given her. There were a great many +people. I had the Camerons with me—Nannie looking +very pretty and chic in red satin with gold wings in +her hair. I told her the dress was much too old and +heavy for her, she should have been in white tulle, with +nothing in her hair, but she says all the American girls +wear satin. The Tornielli entertainments are always +handsome; their full dress livery red is so effective. +Henrietta and I have been driving about shopping. I +never go near a shop alone, but Mrs. Edwardes told us +there were wonderful "occasions" for silks at Marshall +& Snelgrove's. We did pick up several things not dear. +The English shops are not at all like the French ones.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_353" title="pg 353"> </a></p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy, London</span>,<br > +May 1, 1892.</p> + +<p>It is very cold to-day, and I think generally is on the +1st of May. One can't imagine a Queen of the May, +crowned with flowers, dancing around a May-Pole. We +are rather shivering, with a good fire in the room. It is +true that we have been sitting for some time at the window +looking at the crowds of people pouring into the +Park for their great demonstration (anti-capitalist). It +seems to be all going quite quietly—there are processions, +and banners, and brass bands (such horrors), the usual +thing, and I am sure there will be no row and that nothing +will happen—nothing ever does happen in England.</p> + +<p>The Salvation Army are also holding their service in +the Park, so near that we can almost hear the hymns. +There are always soldiers hovering near when they have +their service; I wonder if it does any good. When we +were at Dover last year I went quite often to their service—they +had one almost every afternoon, late, on the +beach. It was a curious sight, such a motley crowd, +rugged old fishermen, boys (half water rats), women, +children, and occasionally a well-dressed, prosperous +small tradesman, often soldiers—some lounging on the +outskirts of the little circle, some sitting on boats, some +reverent, some merely curious, but all joining in the +hymns. I must say it interested me very much; not the +sermon, nor the preachers as a general thing, but the little +earnest group gathered on the sands with the swash of +the waves for an accompaniment, and the red coats of +the soldiers making a patch of colour. Some of the +women looked pretty even in their regulation poke-bonnets.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_354" title="pg 354"> </a></p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy, London</span>,<br > +May 18th.</p> + +<p>It is a beautiful, fine day. I did not perform the Drawing-room, +but walked about in the crowd with Pontavice, +which was decidedly amusing. We saw a good +many people we knew in the carriages and talked to some +of them. Very tired they looked, having been for hours +in the string. I wanted too to see some of the handsome +English turn-outs, as when we go ourselves we hardly +see anything but colleagues. The policeman, who knew +us, let us stand where we liked—I told him to stop the +French Ambassador's carriage when it came out. He +did, and I jumped in, much to the astonishment of the +crowd. We had a pleasant dinner at Lady Delamere's. +About the middle the electric light went out and we sat +for a few minutes in perfect darkness, except for a succession +of matches that Lord Wimborne, who was next +to me, lit. The servants lost their heads, and didn't think +at first of lighting candles which were on the table. It +only lasted those few minutes. Of course such accidents +will happen perpetually until the system is perfected and +universally applied.</p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, May 20th.</p> + +<p>We had a pleasant dinner to-night at Lord Tweedmouth's +and I went afterward to a very handsome ball +at the Burtons' with Nannie and Pontavice. They have +Chesterfield House—one of the best London houses—flowers +and electric light everywhere, and such splendid +pictures. All the smart women in London were there, +and all with their tiaras, except one, who explained to me +that tiaras should only be worn at Embassies, or when +one was invited to meet Royalties, "which of course you +understand, as you haven't put yours on"—so I didn't +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_355" title="pg 355"> </a> +tell the reason, which was that I had forgotten mine, +I so rarely wear anything in my hair, and a tiara is +heavy; also I have to be "recoiffée," which I hate. My +hair is done in the morning, and walks or rides all day, +and is merely pulled out a little at night.</p> + +<p class="author">Saturday, May 21, 1892.</p> + +<p>We dined to-night at the Trevelyans, all Conservatives. +The Stanleys (African Stanley) were there. He +looks as hard as steel, but I suppose couldn't do what he +has done if he were not. Many say he wants to be an +M.P. and is sure of his election. His wife can help him +enormously. It is so curious to me to see all the women +occupying themselves so energetically with politics. They +go about the country canvassing for their husbands; wear +the colours of the party; and have affiches sometimes in +their windows. I saw one well-known political woman +in London who had large bills posted on her window, +"Vote for Lord R." We should be hooted in France if +we did that sort of thing. My husband has been candidate +very often, for many offices, but I have scarcely seen +his name at the bottom of a circular and never heard him +address a public meeting of any kind—in fact, have never +been in the country when the elections were going on. It +is rather curious, as women have such a strong position +in France—a mère de famille, and above all a grandmother, +is somebody. A clever, strong-minded grandmother +is a power in her family and immediate circle.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy, London</span>,<br > +Wednesday, June 1, 1892.</p> + +<p>We had a funny experience to-night. We had been +engaged for some time to dine with the Gladstones, to +meet the Archbishop of Canterbury and Mrs. Benson. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_356" title="pg 356"> </a> +Mrs. Gladstone wrote to me yesterday, asking me to +come punctually at 7.45, as the Archbishop didn't like +late hours (he is rather a delicate man) and had asked +to dine early. We made a great effort to get there in +time—and <em>did</em>; so did everybody else—except the Bensons. +We waited one hour—then went to dinner (they +had sent a messenger to Lambeth and the answer came +back that the Archbishop and Mrs. Benson had started +<em>hours</em> ago. Everyone was worried and feared there must +have been an accident. At 9.30 o'clock, when dinner was +practically over (we had got to the jellies and ices), a +message was brought to Mr. Gladstone. He left the +room and reappeared with the Bensons. The explanation +was that Mrs. Gladstone had written her invitation +from Dollis Hill, a place belonging to Lord Aberdeen, +some miles out of London. They often stay there, so the +Archbishop naturally imagined he was to dine there, and +they had been driving about in the country. The poor +old lady was dreadfully put out—"The Archbishop might +have known that we were in London." Of course the +dinner was all brought back and our evening was long. +However, we managed to go for a moment to the Foreign +Office. I said to Lady Salisbury I hoped it wasn't +the last time we were supping with her at the Foreign +Office (everyone says the Liberals are coming in again). +"Will you think me very rude if I say I hope so, though +of course I shall always want to see my friends in Arlington +Street" (their private residence). I think she and +Lord Salisbury are both tired and will be glad to have +a rest, not that they will <em>socially</em>, for they are always +receiving, both in London and at Hatfield. We got home +fairly early, though the streets were crowded, Piccadilly +something awful. It is a regular London night—carriages +rolling in every direction, and all the world dining, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_357" title="pg 357"> </a> +dancing, supping. W. was rather funny over the dinner +and the long wait, but said that if he had been in Benson's +place he would have gone straight home from +Dollis Hill, and had a cup of tea in his library.</p> + +<p class="author">Thursday, July 2, 1892.</p> + +<p>We had a small luncheon party this morning to hear +the band of the Garde Républicaine, who have come +over from Paris for a few days to the Exhibition. They +play magnificently—we have been to hear them once or +twice and I assure you when they play the "Marseillaise" +it makes one's pulses leap. We had the Duke of Cambridge, +Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar, Staals, Coventrys, +etc. They played on the terrace—we had draped +the balcony with red stuffs, and had some flowers and +plants and about 70 chairs on the terrace. The Duke +talked a great deal. As soon as luncheon was over he +went straight to the library, which opens on the terrace. +We presented the Chef-de-Musique, and they played at +once a few bars of "God Save the Queen"; then the +"Marseillaise," everyone standing. Someone said to the +Duke, "It is very fine, but not an anthem like our 'God +Save the Queen.'" "Non," he answered, "mais c'est un +magnifique chant de guerre." They played for about an +hour, people coming and going and standing about on the +terrace. Some of our friends passing couldn't imagine +what was going on—there was quite a crowd collected in +the Park listening. My dress hadn't come from Paris, +so I wore white, trimmed with Valenciennes; I thought +a little of wearing a tiny tricolour bow, but didn't after +all. One of the prettiest women there was Mrs. Astor, +in black, with a big black picture hat.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_358" title="pg 358"> </a></p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Walmer Castle</span>,<br > +July 17, 1892.</p> + +<p>We came down here yesterday and hoped (at least I +did) to have a lovely day on the water. Lord Dufferin +is a great yachtsman and cruises all about in his own +little boat. At the present moment it is pouring—I can +hardly see the sea—every now and then comes a partial +break and I get a glimpse of a great grey expanse of +water. We got down for dinner last night; a small party, +as there are not many bedrooms—Lord and Lady Wantage +(he such a nice man, one of the few Englishmen who +has the "Légion d'Honneur," which he got in the Crimean +War), the Marchesa Chigi from Rome, and various +young men. The dinner was handsome—Lord Dufferin +always a charming host—and we finished the evening in +the big drawing-room, where I always feel as if I were +in the cabin of a ship, it is so directly on the water. It +looks exactly as it did in Lady Granville's time, and in +fact Lady D. told me she had not changed anything. +When I went to the drawing-room this morning I found +the three ladies talking and trying to persuade themselves +that it would clear after lunch. I said I did not mind +weather and could not stay in the house all day, so we +agreed to equip ourselves suitably and go for a walk +after lunch. In the meantime Lady D. took me over the +house—we went to see Wellington's room (where he +died). His little camp-bed is still there, and some interesting +relics, bits of uniform, and one or two letters +framed and hung upon the wall. The room is small, in +one of the towers, nothing magnificent or ducal about it. +In fact the whole house is simple and not large, one good +drawing-room, looking straight out to sea, so that sitting +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_359" title="pg 359"> </a> +inside you see the big ships pass apparently close under +the windows—a fair dining-room, no library or billiard-room, +and a few bedrooms—an ideal place for a <em>water</em> +life. The moat has been changed into a garden and there +is a tennis-court somewhere, though I didn't exactly make +out where. We went for a walk along the sea wall with +waterproofs and umbrellas, and I wondered if we should +be blown over into the sea, the wind came in such violent +gusts sometimes. It seems a child and a perambulator +were blown off the other day, and strange to say nothing +was hurt, neither child nor perambulator—only the nurse +had hysterics. We walked to Deal and paid Lady Herschell +a visit. I rather demurred at going in, as my hair +was decidedly ruffled and I was very wet, but they all +wanted to and I didn't look any worse than any of the +others. The Castle is fine, interesting—not so large as +Walmer, but with always the same beautiful situation +close to the sea. It is one of the Cinque Ports, and Lord +Sydney had it as long as he lived. The Herschells walked +back with us, and coming home was pleasanter, as the +rain had stopped and the wind diminished a little. I +came up after tea, as I was a little tired and thought I +would take advantage of a quiet moment to write to you. +I will finish to-night, as we have come upstairs early. +We had rather an amusing evening. The young people +proposed playing "Historical Portraits," and insisted +upon our all taking part. I protested vehemently, as I +never have drawn anything in my life. I remember the +drawing class years ago at Mrs. Ward's, when we all +copied a Greek girl with an amphora on her head, and +the tears I shed over my performance. The amphora +(that might have been anything) was crooked and toppling +over, and all her arms and legs were of different +lengths. Even the drawing master was obliged to say +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_360" title="pg 360"> </a> +I had no facility with my pencil. The game is really an +undertaking. Everyone is given paper and pencils and +you have 5 minutes by the watch to draw a historical +portrait or portraits. My neighbour, one of the sons, +was doing something most elaborate—a quantity of figures—my +other neighbour, about my calibre, looked +helpless, but said she must do something. What do you +think she did? "The House that Jack Built," an infantine +production with 4 lines and a chimney, the sort +of thing that we all have done as children. That gave me +courage, particularly as she had played the game before, +and knew what could be received, so I drew the "Man +in the Moon." Can't you see it—a large, round O with +dots for eyes, nose, and mouth. Some of the drawings +were really very clever—the "Field of the Cloth of Gold" +with a great many figures, and Raleigh and his cloak +before Elizabeth; Queen Elizabeth with a chignon and a +short bicycle skirt. We amused ourselves very much. +We leave to-morrow morning, W. by the first train, as +he had an early rendezvous in London. I shall go a little +later with the Wantages.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br > +Friday, July 22, 1892.</p> + +<p>W. and I drove out to Lyon House this afternoon to +a garden party at the Duke of Northumberland's. It is +a fine old place, about an hour's drive from London, with +big iron gates, with the Percy lion with its tail straight +out on top. The Duke did not appear—his daughter-in-law, +Countess Percy (who is a daughter of the Duke of +Argyll) did the honours. She showed us the great corridor +and large drawing-room with a fine Adam's ceiling, +and then we went out into the garden, where there were +quantities of tents, carpets, tea-tables—and half London. +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_361" title="pg 361"> </a> +Everyone was talking elections. I sympathised with +Philip Stanhope, who has been beaten, and said, "Why +didn't you spend more money while you were about it?" +He was not in the least outraged at such a question, and +replied promptly, "I should have certainly, if I hadn't +been so sure of being named." They say a great deal of +money has been spent this time.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, July 27th.</p> + +<p>We had our last outing for this year last night; a +handsome dinner at Tornielli's for the Duc d'Aoste. +He is a tall, good-looking young fellow, decidedly dashing, +and inclined to amuse himself. He is a curious contrast +to his father, whom I liked extremely, but who was +cold and silent, looked like a Spanish grandee of the +Middle Ages, or a soldier-monk—a very striking face +and figure. Countess Somaglia (née Gwendoline Doria) +was among the guests, with her two daughters. We +talked a little of old days in Rome. I remember so well +when she was married.</p> + +<p>To-morrow I shall make our paquets, and we four, +Francis and I, May and Beatrice, leave for Bayreuth and +the Tyrol by the Club train on Saturday. I ordered my +mountain dresses at Nicoll's—two skirts to one jacket—a +real short one faced with leather for mountaineering, +and a longer one, shortish too, for travelling, in blue +serge; a shortish blue linen, and an alpaca. All the +personnel dine to-night for good-bye. This is my 9th +season in London—I wonder if I shall ever see it again. +I have a presentiment that next year we shall only go +back to take leave.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_362" title="pg 362"> </a></p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br > +February 1, 1893.</p> + +<p>We came over last night; a very good crossing, the +shortest I ever made; we were just one hour on the boat. +Lady Salisbury was on board, coming from the Riviera. +We talked all the way over. She is very sorry we are +going—says the Queen will regret M. Waddington very +much; that she had great confidence in him, and now, at +her age, rather dreads seeing strange faces around her. +W. is very glad to get back to France—I too. After all, +ten years is a long time to be away from one's country.</p> + +<p class="author">Sunday, 5th.</p> + +<p>W. and I drove out this afternoon to White Lodge to +say good-bye to Princess Mary. As we came quite near +to the house we crossed very quickly two gentlemen in +a hansom and just recognised the Prince of Wales and +Prince George. Everyone is saying that that marriage +will be arranged. Princess Mary and Princess May were +alone, and decidedly more cheerful. Princess May still +in black, but with no crêpe and a little jet. Princess +Mary was charming and friendly as she always is, and +seemed really sorry we were going, also wanted to know +who was coming in our place; but that I couldn't tell her. +She promised to come to tea one afternoon at the Embassy +before we went away. Various people came in to +tea, as they always do here on Sunday afternoon, and +someone said the marriage was certainly decided and +would be announced after the 27th, which was to have +been the wedding-day last year. They certainly looked +much brighter and happier than I expected to see them.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_363" title="pg 363"> </a></p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br > +February 13, 1893.</p> + +<p>I went this afternoon to the House of Commons to +hear Mr. Gladstone make his great Irish speech. I had +an excellent place in the front row of the ladies' gallery, +and heard and saw everything. The House was packed, +chairs all along the gangway—the Prince, Dukes of +York and Teck in their places, quantities of peers and +some diplomats—no Ambassadors, which surprised me. +I know that W. always prefers reading a speech the next +day, but I thought some of the others would be there. +Mr. Gladstone was much cheered by both sides when he +came in (a tribute to his age and intelligence rather than +to his politics). He rose to speak at a quarter to 4, finishing +at 5 minutes past six (two hours and 20 minutes). +He was much quieter and less passionate than I had expected. +There was no vehement appeal for the wrongs +of Ireland. It was more an "exposé de motifs" than a +real speech, but it was an extraordinary effort for a man +of his age (83). His voice was so clear and strong, +never faltering: a little weaker and lower perhaps toward +the end. I suppose it is the last great political speech he +will ever make.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br > +March 3, 1893.</p> + +<p>We are beginning our tournée of farewell visits, and +to-day we have been to take leave of the Prince and Princess +of Wales at Marlborough House. I had not seen +the Princess since Prince Eddie's death. I wore blue +velvet and my Jubilee medal. We were received at the +door by all the household—Probyn, Lord Suffield, Stanley +Clark, Lady Suffield, and Miss Knollys. Prince +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_364" title="pg 364"> </a> +George was in the first drawing-room. The Prince and +Princess with two daughters in the big long room. I +can't say I found the Princess changed or grown older. +She looked sad, but it was the same slight, youthful +figure. She was still in deep plain black (woollen stuff) +with no ornaments. She was charming, with the sweet, +simple manner she always has. Tears came into her +eyes when she said she hadn't seen me for so long on +account of her mourning. I asked her about her first +grandchild—Princess Louise Fife's little girl. She said +she was a dear little thing, talked a great deal, trotted +about everywhere, and called her "Granny." W. and the +Prince talked together, but we didn't stay very long. I +didn't say a word to the Princess about Prince Eddie +(they told me not to), only just as we were going I said +I hoped the end of the year would bring her happiness +and blessing. She squeezed my hand, but her lips quivered +and she couldn't speak. She has been unfailing to +us always and said we should certainly meet again, and +that I must always let her know when I came to England. +I begin to realise now that we are going, with all these +leave-takings. After all we have been here 10 years, and +that is a good piece out of one's life.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +March 5, 1893.</p> + +<p>I wish you had been here yesterday to see the farewell +dinner for W. at the Mansion House. It was a great +tribute to a departing Ambassador—all the distinguished +men in England assembled to say good-bye. The Lady +Mayoress had asked me to dine with her and bring anyone +I wanted, so I took Hilda and Mdme. de la Villestreux. +Hilda and I started together a little before 7. +As we drew near the Mansion House there was quite +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_365" title="pg 365"> </a> +a crowd; quantities of policemen, and empty carriages +driving away. We went in by the same entrance as the +men, and then turned off sharp to the right and were +conducted to the drawing-room of the Lady Mayoress. +I wore black moiré with a great band of orange velvet +on the corsage, and all the jewels I possessed—tiara, +pearls, and diamond necklace and diamond stars and +ornaments fastened on the front of the dress, as I knew +we were to sit in the gallery after dinner to hear the +speeches. We found Mdme. de la Villestreux already +there—there were 16 women. The Lady Mayoress presented +them all to me. They were all ex-Lady Mayoresses—"ladies +who had passed the chair," which it seems +is the technical term. She also gave me a splendid bouquet +tied with a tricolour ribbon. The dinner was very +good, the traditional London public dinner menu—turtle +soup, salmon, etc. There was very handsome silver on +the table: great massive bowls and flagons and beautiful +flowers—very quickly served, and really very pleasant. +After the first five minutes everyone talked. Some of the +women were handsome, all well dressed and with quantities +of diamonds. Just as we were finishing a servant +came to summon us to the gallery. The loving cup was +going round and the speeches were to begin. The Lady +Mayoress led the way to the gallery in the great banqueting +hall directly opposite the table d'honneur. It was +a striking sight, particularly that table where was the +Lord Mayor in his robes, and all the diplomatists with +stars and broad ribbons. There was a blaze of light and +at first I couldn't recognise anyone (we were very high), +and then I saw W. standing, drinking out of the loving +cup, with the Lord Mayor on one side and Rustem on the +other, and gradually I made out a good many people. +There were two long tables besides the table d'honneur, +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_366" title="pg 366"> </a> +and they told me about 300 guests. All the representative +men and intelligence of England assembled to say +God-speed to the departing Ambassador. The Speaker +and Lord Herschell (Presidents of the two Houses) were +both there, and men of every possible coterie from Lord +Lorne to James Knowles of the "Nineteenth Century." +As soon as the regular toasts had been drunk there was +a pause and then came the toast of the evening with +"bumpers," "The French Ambassador." There were +roars of applause when W. got on his legs, and I must +confess to a decided choke in my throat. W. spoke (in +English, which they had asked him to do) very simply +and very well, going back to his early days. When he +said that he had done his best always to keep up good +and friendly relations with England, and that he had +had much sympathy from all sides, he was much cheered; +but much more when he said that perhaps what had +given him more friends in England than any of his public +acts as a statesman was the fact that he had rowed in +the University eight at Cambridge. Then there were +roars of applause, and he heard quite distinctly the people +below saying—"he is quite right, we always remember +it." He was quite ému when he came to the end; his +voice taking that grave tone I like so much when he said +"good-bye." One heard every word. He was much +cheered when he finished. The Lady Mayoress came +and shook hands with me and asked me if I wasn't proud +of my husband. Some of the speeches were charming—the +Speaker's particularly; Lord Lorne also made a very +pretty little speech, and Rustem (Turk), who answered +the toast for the "Corps Diplomatique," made a very +good speech. I can't remember all the names and all the +speeches, but it was a most brilliant assembly, and as +Countess Deym said to me, a wonderful tribute to W. As +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_367" title="pg 367"> </a> +soon as the speeches were over we all went down to the +great hall, where I had a perfect défilé of compliments +and regrets, Lord Lorne again repeating his words "that +W.'s departure was a national calamity." All had something +friendly to say—the two Law Lords, Judge Bowen +and Sir Francis Jeune, most sympathetic. S. too told +me I should be much pleased—he had never seen such a +demonstration in England for a foreigner. Of course +some of the young men came in to the Embassy to talk +the dinner over, and gave their impressions. They were +all much pleased. W. certainly was, and said he felt +quite ému when he saw all the faces turned to him +and knew that every word he said would tell—also he +knew quite well that his reference to the boat-race would +appeal much more to the <em>general</em> public than any expressions +of good feeling toward England. He hasn't always +had an easy time with his English name and his English +education. Of course it has been very useful to him +here, as he has been thrown with all sorts of people, and +could understand the English point of view, but in +France they were always afraid he was too English. I +think when he has gone they will realise at home what +good work he has done here <em>because</em> he understands them.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy, London</span>,<br > +March 8, 1893.</p> + +<p>W. and I went together to the Mansion House, Tuesday, +to pay a farewell visit to the Lady Mayoress, who +was receiving formally with music, tea, and quantities of +people. The Lord Mayor appeared too when he heard +we were there, and was quite pleased when W. said how +gratified and touched he had been by the banquet and +the universal expression of regret at his departure. The +Lord Mayor said to him, "You can't find any warmer +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_368" title="pg 368"> </a> +friends, Ambassador, in France than those you are leaving +here, but I quite understand that a man can't live +long out of his own country." We had just time to get +back to the Embassy, dress, and start for Windsor, where +we dined: our last stay in the yellow rooms. The dinner +was almost entirely Royal—the Empress Frederick, +Prince and Princess Christian, Prince and Princess +Henry of Battenberg, Duchess of Connaught, del Mazo, +the Spanish Ambassador, I the only other lady. The +cercle was not long—I thought the Queen looked tired. +She sat down at once; said she wouldn't say good-bye, as +she hoped to see me once more at Buckingham Palace. +She said at her age she rather dreaded saying good-bye, +also seeing new faces, and she was very sorry we were +going. "Who comes to replace you?" I said I thought +nothing was yet decided. I talked some time to the other +Princesses after the Queen had congédied me. The Empress +was as usual charming, and said, "I am afraid we +sha'n't meet again often, Mdme. Waddington, you won't +cross to Berlin, and I can't go to Paris, but that isn't my +fault. I think we shall have to meet in Italy, where I +first had the pleasure of seeing you." The end of the +evening we spent as usual in the drawing-room with the +"household." I had quite a talk with Prince Henry, +who is very good-looking and attractive. We left the +drawing-room about eleven—W. going as usual to +smoke, and I to my rooms. I sat some time in front of +the fire in the beautiful little yellow drawing-room wondering +if I ever should see it again, and going back to +our first Windsor visit, when all was so new and strange +to me. I wonder where we shall be this time next year, +and if we shall settle down easily to our quiet life in +France. W. came in rather late from the smoking-room: +he said all the men were so nice to him, and seemed really +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_369" title="pg 369"> </a> +sorry he was going; also were very anxious to know if +he wasn't sorry himself.</p> + +<p>This morning (Wednesday) it was beautiful. I +breakfasted as usual in my rooms and sat some time in +the deep window recess watching all the people coming +and going. There is always so much life about Windsor +when the Queen is there. About 10 Colonel Byng came +to take us to the Chapel to see the sarcophagus of Prince +Eddie, which is enormous and has rather too much +colour—almost gaudy. I went with Hilda the other day +to Gilbert's studio to see the monument he is making, +and which I liked. It is very elaborate and complicated, +but the sleeping figure good: so reposeful and young; +the long straight limbs. One quite realised a young life +cut short. Gilbert is clever and interesting, and begged +us to criticise freely.</p> + +<p>We got home about 12 and I took a short turn in the +Park before breakfast, which was full as usual when the +Queen passes. She came this afternoon for two Drawing-rooms. +I shall do my last to-morrow—I sha'n't go +to the second.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br > +March 10, 1893.</p> + +<p>I am doing all my last things. I went to the Drawing-room +yesterday (our last). Countess Spencer presented +the ladies, and looked very stately and handsome in +black, with splendid jewels. The Queen didn't stay very +long, but looked less tired, I thought, than the other night +at Windsor. I said good-bye to a great many people +whom I sha'n't see again. At this season plenty of people +are still in the country, and only come up for a day or two +for Drawing-rooms, theatres, etc. Teesdale and I had +quiet an affectionate parting. For so long now we have +made our entrée together into the Throne Room: he +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_370" title="pg 370"> </a> +holding my hand and both of us making a deep bow and +curtsey at the door, that we have become quite like +puppets.</p> + +<p>This afternoon I have had my farewell audience from +the Queen at Buckingham Palace at 4 o'clock. I wore +as usual the blue velvet, which will walk about alone +soon, as it has done all the ceremonies lately; my pearls, +and a crême velvet bonnet with light blue feathers. I +went in the ordinary open carriage (not gala). The +gala carriage with the powdered wigs, big footmen, +canes, etc., went out yesterday for the last time to the +Drawing-room. I had some difficulty in getting into +the court-yard, which was filled with carriages, luggage-vans, +soldiers, etc., as the Queen was leaving this afternoon +for Windsor. I was sent from one entrance to +another, in spite of the tricolour cockade, and finally +drew up at a side-door (where a shabby little victoria +was standing). A man in ordinary black livery appeared, +and after a short parley (in which I intervened +myself, saying that I was the French Ambassadress and +had an audience with the Queen) he showed me into a +room on the ground floor. I waited about 15 minutes +(it was 5 minutes to 4 when I arrived) and then Lady +Southampton, Lady in Waiting, appeared, with many +apologies for being late—she didn't think I would come +so soon (and I was a little afraid of being late, they kept +me so long in the court-yard). We went upstairs to a +small drawing-room looking out on the court-yard, and +in about 10 minutes the same servant in black appeared, +saying, "The Queen is ready to receive the French Ambassadress." +Lady Southampton said she couldn't come, +as the Queen wished to see me alone, so I followed the +servant down a long corridor—he stopped at a door, +knocked, a voice said "come in," and I found myself in +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_371" title="pg 371"> </a> +the Royal presence. It was a small, ordinary room, +rather like a sort of waiting-room, no traces of habitation, +nothing pretty or interesting. The Queen was +standing, very simply dressed in black (her travelling +dress she said, she was starting at once for Windsor) +before a writing-table which was in the middle of +the room, covered with books and papers. She was +most kind, made me sit down on the sofa next to her, +and said she was afraid she had kept me waiting, but +that she had been kept by a visit from Mr. Gladstone—she +then paused a moment, so I made a perfectly banal +remark, "what a wonderful man, such an extraordinary +intelligence," to which she replied, "He is very deaf." +She expressed great regret at our departure, and hoped +we were sorry to leave England and all our friends, but +after all Paris was not very far off, and she hoped she +should see me again. She was sure M. Waddington +would find plenty to do when he got back—would he +continue his literary work? I said he would certainly +have plenty to do, as he was Senator and Membre de +l'Institut, but that we should both miss the Embassy life +and the varied interests it brought. She repeated that she +hoped to see me again, so I asked if ever I came back to +England might I write to one of her ladies, and ask if I +could be received. "Pray do, and I shall not say good-bye, +but au revoir." We talked about 15 minutes about +all sorts of things—some of our colleagues—our successor, +etc. She asked again who was coming to London, +and said, "My last two Ambassadors to France were ex-Viceroys." +It seemed to me that she said it on purpose, +and that she wanted France to send one of her best men +to St. James's. I repeated the remark to my husband, +and the chancellerie. It is quite true. The present British +Ambassador, Lord Dufferin, is certainly the first +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_372" title="pg 372"> </a> +diplomatist they have. He has had every distinguished +post England can offer—Ambassador to St. Petersburg +and Rome, Governor of Canada, and Viceroy of India, +and has played a great part. His predecessor, Lord +Lytton, was also Viceroy of India, and very distinguished, +though in a different way from Lord Dufferin. +I rather fancy that Montebello would be an acceptable +appointment. He knows English well, has English relations, +and I should think would like the post, but I have +really no idea. Some of the papers say that Ribot wants +the place, but I think he prefers home politics and would +not care to leave France; however, I could not tell the +Queen anything definite. She kissed me at parting, and +gave me her photograph, signed, in a handsome silver +frame—then half turned her back, moving to a door on +the other side of the room, so that I could get out easily +and not altogether à reculons, which would have been +awkward to open the door. I tucked my parcel under +my arm, opened the door myself (a thing I don't often +do in these days, except my bedroom door) and found +myself again in the long corridor. My audience was +over, and I daresay I shall never see the Queen again. +She was unfailing to us both from the first moment, always +welcomed us with the same smile, was always inclined +to talk about anything and to understand and +smooth over any little difficulty or misunderstanding. I +think she is a wonderful woman and a wonderful Queen. +In her long life she must have had many difficult questions +and responsibilities, and certainly England has not +suffered under her rule. I met Lady S. in the corridor, +who came downstairs with me, and said she was quite +sure the Queen meant it when she said she would like +to see me again, that she <em>never</em> said anything she didn't +mean.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_373" title="pg 373"> </a></p> + +<p>I found Hilda and one or two friends when I got home +who told me that the English ladies, headed by Ladies +Salisbury and Spencer, representing the two parties, +Conservative and Liberal, were going to give me a souvenir +(in memory of my ten years in London), a jewel +of some kind. I was rather pleased. The last days of +adieux are rather melancholy. I shall be glad when they +are over. I forgot to say that Wednesday I had a message +about 3 o'clock from the Princess Beatrice, saying +she and Prince Henry of Battenberg would come about +5 and ask me for a cup of tea. The notice was so short +that I hadn't time to ask anyone except Hilda, who happened +in, and some of the secretaries. They came alone +and were most friendly—said they had not given me any +more time on purpose, as they didn't want a party, but +merely to see us. They were as easy and pleasant as +possible, she talking much more than she ever does in +the grand monde. I told her I hoped she would let me +know if ever she came to Paris. She said. "Oh, yes—and +we will do a lively play together."</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +Tuesday, March 14, 1893.</p> + +<p>I went this afternoon with Mdme. de la Villestreux +to the French bazaar at Kensington Town Hall to receive +Princess Mary, who opened it (and very much better +than I did the day I performed the same thing). Mdme. +de Bylandt, de Bille, Mdme. du Poutel de la Harpe were +all there waiting at the foot of the stairs. Princess Mary +was easy and charming, and I really think was not bored. +She had all the ladies presented to her, talked to them all, +knew apparently all their relations, young and old, complimented +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_374" title="pg 374"> </a> +them on the arrangement of their stalls, said +the various objects made and presented by the Ladies' +Art Association were very artistic and useful (I wish +you could have seen them—<em>our</em> pincushions at the Vente +des Diaconnesses were things of beauty next to them), +took her tea, said the cake was so good, and delighted +everybody. When I see how easy it is for Royalties to +win golden opinions with a few gracious words and a +smile, I wonder at the stiff, stand-off manner some of +them adopt. Princess May looked very slight and pretty, +and is always well dressed. I again wore the blue velvet, +which will fall off me soon, but this time I changed the +bonnet and wore a black jet one with a red rose, and it +wasn't very pretty.</p> + +<p class="author">March 16, 1893.</p> + +<p>We had a last musical afternoon to-day at Marie Humlicher's: +8 hands, two pianos, she directing and the performers +being Ctesse. de Bylandt, Mlle. de Staal, Hilda +and I. We played Mozart and Schumann, really very +well. Mlle. Humlicher has a nice big room over a coutourière +on Fulham Road. She always gives us tea after +the music, which is generally brought up by a tidy little +English maid with her cap and apron. She was astounded +this afternoon when the tea was brought in by a most +elegant young person, dressed in the latest fashion, and +attended by a second, also most stylish—however, as the +tea was all right she did not say anything; neither did I, +but I waited a moment after the other ladies had gone +and she had a mysterious conversation on the stairs and +came in highly amused. It seems the two elegant ladies +were the dressmaker and her assistant. When they saw +all these ambassadorial equipages at their door—enormous +powdered footmen, wigs, cockades, etc., also Hilda's +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_375" title="pg 375"> </a> +beautiful carriage (Deichmann has splendid horses +always and everything perfectly well turned out), their +curiosity got the better of them and they felt they <em>must</em> +see the swells; so they interviewed the maid, installed her +in their rooms to attend to any customer who might +come, got into their swell garments, and brought up the +tea. Wasn't it funny? Luckily we were all rather elegant. +I had been paying some farewell visits, and it so +happened that we were all up to the mark. I have sometimes +gone to Mlle. Humlicher's on foot in a cloth dress, +as it is not far from the Embassy. I am sorry to have +done with those afternoons—Mlle. Humlicher plays +beautifully—she is a pupil of Rubinstein's and has a real +artistic nature.</p> + +<p class="author">Friday, March 17th.</p> + +<p>I had a line from Lady Salisbury yesterday, asking if +to-day at 5 would suit me to receive the ladies and my +present. I accepted of course, asking her about how +many would come. She answered, between 50 and 60, +she thought. As the moment drew near I got rather +nervous, for W. said they would certainly make me a +little speech and that I would have to reply, and he suggested +thinking it over; but that I refused and said I +must trust to the inspiration of the moment. I wore my +purple satin. The ladies arrived very punctually. There +were one or two men, all the personnel, including W., +and one or two of my friends, Sir George Arthur, +Gevers, etc. Lady Salisbury asked me where I would +stand, so I put myself in the middle of the big drawing-room, +under the chandelier. Lady Salisbury was spokeswoman, +flanked on one side by Lady Spencer, the other +by Mrs. Gladstone; all the other ladies, including Ladies +Londonderry, Cadogan, Shrewsbury, Harcourt, etc., +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_376" title="pg 376"> </a> +forming a circle round me. Lady Salisbury made a very +pretty little speech, beginning—"Madame Waddington, +Ambassadress," and saying they hoped I would sometimes +think of England and my English friends, that I +had been there so long that I seemed one of themselves, +etc., and then handed me a blue velvet étui. I don't +know exactly what I replied (I was rather émue and W. +just opposite to me was looking at me hard), but evidently +only a few words, to say that the ten years I had +spent in London had been very happy ones, that France +wasn't very far away, and that I hoped to come back +often—but I think they understood that I was pleased +and grateful for the present, and above all with the +feeling that prompted it. The jewel is very handsome, +a circle of large, beautiful white diamonds with a large +pearl in the centre and another as pendant. It was passed +around the company and they all found it very handsome. +We had tea in the blue room, and I talked to them +all and said what was perfectly true, that they had been +ten perfectly happy years we had spent in London, and +ten years is a good piece out of one's life. They left me +a book with the names of all the "signataires." W. was +much pleased, and I fancy it was rather an unusual +demonstration. One of these days, when Francis's wife +wears it, it will be a historic jewel. After all the company +had gone the secretaries stayed on a little while. +I think they are all sorry we are going, and they certainly +regret W. as a chief. They all say he is so absolutely +just.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +Monday, March 27, 1893.</p> + +<p>We walked about in the Row this morning. It was +cold and raw, not many people. We dined at the Italian +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_377" title="pg 377"> </a> +Embassy in the evening with Tornielli. The Comtesse +is at Naples with her niece, the young Marquise Paulucci, +who has just had a fine boy. The dinner was small, +mostly colleagues. We sat after dinner in the red drawing-room, +which is very picturesque—a fine old carved +chimney, enormous, and beautiful old red silk hangings +just faded enough to give an old-world look. He has +brought quantities of things from his palace in Italy. +Lincoln was there. He knows who his successor is—Mr. +Bayard. We don't know ours.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate,</span><br > +March 29, 1893.</p> + +<p>Princess Mary and Princess May had promised to +come once to tea before I left and they named to-day. +I asked very few people—Duchess of St. Albans, Ladies +Arran, Randolph Churchill, Hilda, and some men, Deym, +Tornielli, Mensdorff, George Arthur, etc. Lady Randolph +is very musical, plays extremely well and is very +kind to all the artists. I asked Mlle. Jansen (Swedish), +who sang quite beautifully—a fine voice, such a ring in +it. She is going to America, and I am sure she will have +a great success. Both Princesses were as cordial and +nice as possible, said it would seem strange not to see +me about everywhere any more. "Of course you will +come back to London," Princess Mary said; "but it can +never be the same thing—you will be a visitor; now you +are living your life with us, and London is your home." +Princess May looked very pretty, and so bright that I +fancy her engagement is settled—everyone seems to +think so. I didn't say anything to her, but when I parted +from Princess Mary at the foot of the stairs I couldn't +help saying that I heard that very soon all her friends +would be able to congratulate her, and that as I was +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_378" title="pg 378"> </a> +going I would like to think that very happy days were +before her. She said "I hope so—I think so," and kissed +me. At the door she turned and said, "I wonder when I +shall have tea and music again in these rooms. I shall +always think with pleasure of the French Embassy." +We had a farewell dinner at our cousin's, Mrs. Mostyn's. +Lord Herschell was on one side of me and talked a great +deal about the banquet at the Mansion House. He said +W.'s English was so good, too classical if anything; said +he would like very much to hear him speak in French +and at the Tribune. He couldn't imagine such a quiet +speech and manner in the fiery French Chamber. I told +him the Senate was much more sedate than the Chamber +(consequently much less amusing) and that he would +often hear a perfectly quiet academic speech there.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br > +Good Friday, March 31, 1893.</p> + +<p>We went to the afternoon service at St. Paul's, where +the anthem was beautiful. There were a great many +people, a great many men following the service, and a +great many also walking about looking at the tombs and +tablets.</p> + +<p>We really have not a moment these last days. I shall +go over a little before W., about the 12th of next month. +We have had all sorts of leave-takings. The Empress +Frederick received us the other day—always charming +and interesting, but still talking of her visit to Paris, +which she can't get over. She said to me, "I would have +liked so much to see you in Paris, in your own house. +M. Waddington promised me a dinner with all your +clever men." "I should have been much pleased and +honoured, Majesté; perhaps a little later he may have +that pleasure—but I'm afraid——"</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_379" title="pg 379"> </a></p> + +<p>We had all a pleasant visit to Princess Louise at Kensington, +who said she would certainly let us know when +she came to Paris—I think she often comes. We went +to White Lodge, of course, where they all look so +happy I can't help thinking that the marriage is arranged. +We also went, for a farewell cup of tea, to +Alma Tadema, who receives once a week in his beautiful +studio. He is going to send me an engraving of one +of his lovely Greek pictures. His atelier is most picturesque +and full of interesting things. He has a set of +panels painted by all his artist friends which are gems. +He is very attractive himself—so simple. There were +a good many people there.</p> + +<p>We had a dinner and party (music) last week at Lady +Wimborne's. Their entertainments are always successful. +The house (Hamilton House) is one of the best in +London. Lord B., a great friend of W.'s, took me to +get an ice at the buffet, and was deploring W.'s departure. +"Such a pity that Waddington had gone back to France +after graduating so brilliantly at Cambridge. He would +certainly have made the same career in England, and +would have been Premier in England, so much better +than being Premier in France"—a truly British sentiment +(what makes their strength, perhaps), but naif.</p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br > +Easter Sunday, April 2, 1893.</p> + +<p>My last Easter in London, a beautiful bright day. +Henrietta, Francis, and I walked down to Westminster +Abbey in the morning. It was crowded, as it always is—Easter +is such a splendid service—the fine old Easter +hymn always the same, with the Hallelujah echoing +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_380" title="pg 380"> </a> +through the vaults and arches. We had a small dinner +in the evening—Jusserand (who had come back to see +his friends, of whom he has thousands here), the La +Villestreux, the personnel, and a few young people in the +evening. I wore my jewel, which they all found very +handsome.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br > +April 9th.</p> + +<p>Henrietta, Francis, and I went to the Temple Church +this morning. It is a grand old place, right in the heart +of London. We were met at the door by one of the +"benchers," who gave us very good places and took us +all over the church and various halls after service. Francis +had never been there and was wildly interested, particularly +in the tombs of the old Crusaders with their +crossed legs. We lunched with quite a party of benchers +and their wives in the "parlement" room, a charming +room looking out on the river and across a garden filled +with roses, streams of sunlight pouring in at all the windows. +They told us the War of the Roses, white and +red, was planned in those gardens, and asked us if we +remembered the old lines:</p> + +<ol> +<li>"If this red rose offend thy sight,</li> + <li class="indent2">It in thy bosom wear;</li> +<li>'Twill blush to find itself less white</li> + <li class="indent2">And turn Lancastrian there.:</li> +</ol> + +<p>Yesterday we had a handsome "Diner d'Adieu" at the +Turkish Embassy, principally colleagues. Lincoln was +there—he too is going, his wife left yesterday. They +have raised the United States Legation here to an Embassy, +and I hope they will raise the salaries. No one +is more asked out or has a better position here than the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_381" title="pg 381"> </a> +United States Minister. I always remember the remark +of one of our colleagues, Baron Solvyns, who had been +long in London and knew it well. We were talking one +day about the Corps Diplomatique, small Powers, Embassies, +etc., and were discussing who was the most important +Ambassador in London. Solvyns said, "There +is no doubt about it, the American <em>Minister</em> is the first +Ambassador in London."</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br > +April 12, 1893.</p> + +<p>My last letter from Albert Gate, Dear. Yesterday all +our small things, silver, house linen, etc., departed. The +packing seemed well done. We put everything that was +to go in the ballroom (little Dresden figures, glasses, silver +ornaments), nothing packed, all spread out, on tables. +A man came and made an inventory, packs everything +in a great van that comes to the door and arrives at our +door in the Rue Dumont d'Urville, where equally everything +is taken out and unpacked. He says nothing will +be broken. It is certainly a very easy way of moving, +and I shall be anxious to see how they arrive. The +Florians had their furniture taken over like that, and I +think one table was a little démantibulée. We leave to-morrow; +we being Henrietta and I. W. stays some little +time still. I take over all the French servants, both +coachmen, and my victoria and horses, as I must settle +myself for the spring in the Paris house. W. sends over +one of the secretaries, M. Lecomte, with us, and the colleagues +are all coming to the station to say good-bye. +The rooms look melancholy to-night, so many things +gone; piano of course and all books and small tables, +screens, etc.—all the gros mobilier belongs to the Embassy. +We sat some time talking, just we three: W., +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_382" title="pg 382"> </a> +Henrietta, and I, after dinner. W. has just been named +one of the Directeurs du Canal de Suez. I think he will +find plenty of occupation when he gets back.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Paris, 31, Rue Dumont d'Urville,</span><br > +April 16, 1893.</p> + +<p>Here I am, Dear, back in my little salon, writing at +my table in the corner by the window, and rather distracted +by the quantities of carriages passing. There +is so much more movement in the street than when we +left ten years ago, and I have got accustomed to such a +quiet bedroom and salon. All our living rooms (except +the dining-room) at Albert Gate gave on the Park, so +we never heard the rattle and noise of carriages over +pavements, and as no cabs nor camions are allowed in +the Park the passing never disturbed us. We came over +very comfortably on Thursday. All our colleagues were +at the station to see us off, and I think they are sorry +to say good-bye. We found our voiture-salon filled with +flowers. Sir George Arthur and S. came over with us. +It was very cold and very rough. All the men disappeared +at once, but Henrietta and I remained on deck +and were quite happy, well wrapped up with rugs, and +tarpaulins stretched in front of us to keep out the wet. +Lecomte had arranged our lunch in the private room of +the buffet at Calais (where W. and I always breakfasted +when we came over) and it was comfortable to see a +bright fire. I am ashamed to say that the ladies of the +party eat a very good breakfast. The men looked rather +white, and certainly were not good "fourchettes" at +that meal. At Dover we had found Lord William Seymour +in uniform, with his aide-de-camp, wife and daughter +waiting for us. He took me on the boat, and to the +cabin, where there were more flowers, and stayed until +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_383" title="pg 383"> </a> +the last moment, giving the captain all manner of instructions +for my comfort, and particularly to see that my +cabin was warm, with plenty of rugs, etc. I never went +near it. I think Adelaïde and Bonny had a very comfortable +time there. Francis met us at the Gare du Nord, +much pleased to have us back. We went to Henrietta's +to dine. I was glad to come home directly after dinner +and go to bed. Well, Dear, there is one chapter of my +life closed—I wonder what the future reserves for us. +I shall be uncomfortable for a few days until my van +arrives. It left the same day we did, and the man said +it would take a week to bring the things over, but I shall +not expect them for ten days. I found quantities of cards +and notes here, and Louise and Henrietta of course will +give me dinner or anything else I want until I can get +quite settled. Hubert got over only to-day. The sea +was so rough he wouldn't cross on Thursday; he waited +a day at Folkestone, and another at Boulogne, to rest the +horses which had been knocked about. W. writes that +the Embassy seems absolutely empty. Still he dines out +every night (at the club when he hasn't an invitation) +and will come over as soon as he can. The house looks +so small after the big rooms at Albert Gate, and the +stable and little cour minute. It sounded so familiar to +hear the carriage coming in under the voûte, and also +the street cries. I daresay in a few days I shall take +up my ordinary Paris life, and London will seem a +dream—like Moscow.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_384" title="pg 384"> </a></p> + + +<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Bayreuth</span>,<br > +Saturday, July 31, 1897.<sup><a href="#fn12" id="r12">[12]</a></sup></p> + +<p>We arrived Thursday evening from Nuremberg in a +pouring rain, which continued all day Friday, and detestable +it was—streets crowded, everybody's umbrella running +into one and catching in your veil (really twice in +mine), mud everywhere, carriages scarce and dear. Our +rooms are comfortable, Mary de Bunsen got them for +us, a good-sized salon (with a piano), three bedrooms, +and two maids' rooms. We have our early breakfast +and supper, but dine out. Our experience at the Sonne +was not very agreeable—a long, hot dining-room, quantities +of hungry people and no servants to speak of. I +was rather interested in my neighbour, a long, thin +American, a Western man from Iowa I think, a school-master. +He told me he had been saving for years to get +money enough "to come across" (as he said) and hear +"Parsifal." He had taught himself German in the evenings +when his class was finished. The man was in such +a quiver of delighted anticipation that it was a pleasure +to see him. I told him I was sure he would not be disappointed, +as Van Dyck was to sing "Parsifal." There +were quite a number of priests at table, and one heard a +little French, but the talk was principally German and +English. We got up to the theatre easily enough, as +carriages were going backward and forward all the time. +The opera, "Parsifal," was beautifully given—Van Dyck +as good as ever. I always think he stands so wonderfully +in that scene where he has his back to the public +and is absorbed by all he sees. He told me it was one +of his most difficult parts. We had great difficulty in +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_385" title="pg 385"> </a> +getting our coffee between the acts, and greater still in +finding our carriage at the end. The crowd, and scramble, +and mud were something awful.</p> + +<p class="author">Friday, August 6th.</p> + +<p>We are leaving this afternoon, having had an enchanting +week. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, the +whole Ring beautifully given. All the music is racing +through my brain, from the lovely wave chorus of the +swimming Rhine maidens to the magnificent end of the +"Götterdämmerung" with all the different motifs worked +in. They played the funeral march of "Siegfried" splendidly. +It is a curious life one leads here. In the morning +everybody walks about the town—the streets are narrow +and it is amusing to be hailed from windows over +small shops, grocers', bakers', watchmakers', by friends +who are lodging there. About 3 a sort of restless excitement +is in the air and one sees a long procession mounting +the hill to the Opera House, everyone absorbed by +the one idea. There are quantities of people we know. +I didn't go and see Mdme. Wagner this time, as Henrietta +and Pauline don't know her. Her evenings, the off +night, are very interesting. One sees all the distinguished +people of any kind at her house, all the artists, +critics, etc. Of course no one ventures to criticise the +<em>music</em>—merely the execution.</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Meingeningen, Biebrich,</span><br > +Sunday, August 15, 1897.</p> + +<p>I have been here two or three days and am glad to +have some quiet hours in the garden after the fatigue +and excitement of Bayreuth. Four Wagner operas in +succession is a strain on one's brain (not that I wouldn't +do it straight over again this week if I could, but one +wants the rest between). The crowd at Bayreuth the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_386" title="pg 386"> </a> +day we started was something wonderful, as of course +everyone leaves after their série—there is nothing to do +or see in the town. At Nuremberg, too, the scramble +to get something to eat was funny, as there were two +courants, all of us leaving Bayreuth, and just as many +more arriving to take our places. There is always a +crowd at the Nuremberg station, though they have multiplied +little buffets outside the regular salles d'attente +with coffee, beer, sausages, etc. We were late all along +the line, and again there was such a crowd at the big +Frankfort station that I could not get my trunks in time +to take the first train for Mosbach—however, I arrived +finally and was pleased to see Heinrich's broad, good-humoured +face, and we drove at once to the house, where +Mary was waiting for me with supper. We talked a +little, but even that took us on to 2 o'clock, as it was +after midnight when I arrived.</p> + +<p>We have seen various people, and made expeditions +to Wiesbaden. We wrote to the Empress Frederick's +lady-in-waiting the other day (Countess Perponcher, +whom Mary knows very well) to say that I was here +near Cronberg, and would be so pleased if the Empress +would receive me. The answer has just come, asking me +to lunch at Cronberg on Wednesday. I am delighted to +go—first to see the Empress, and then to see the house, +which is filled with beautiful things. The Empress has +travelled so much, and been so much in Italy, and has +bought all sorts of treasures.</p> + +<p class="author">Tuesday, August 17, 1897.</p> + +<p>Last night we went to the opera at Wiesbaden. It was +"Hansel and Gretel," beautifully given—the orchestra +very good and the angel scene with all the angels coming +down a sort of ladder and circling round the sleeping +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_387" title="pg 387"> </a> +children quite exquisite. It was a funny contrast to the +London and Paris Opera. Mary and I started off about +5.30 in ordinary summer dress—foulard and voile. We +went to the great confectioner at Wiesbaden for our tea +and cakes, and a little before 7 walked across to the +Opera. There we took off our hats and jackets, hung +them up on a little peg, found our seats without any +trouble, and had a very pleasant evening. The entr'actes +are much shorter than in France, so that we were out a +little before 10. The drive home was lovely on a bright +starlight summer night; about three-quarters of an +hour. It was such an easy, independent way of going, +without the complications of a man to go with us, servant +to take our cloaks, etc. I often think I should like +to live a little in Germany, there is so much that I like in +the country, and life seems so easy, though I believe German +women wouldn't say so. They all seemed weighed +down with cares, and apparently all with very small incomes. +I wonder if you have read Hauptmann's "Versunkene +Glocke"; I am fascinated by it. It was a little +difficult reading at first on account of the sort of patois, +but it is a wonderful book, so weird and full of sentiment. +I will finish my letter after our day at Cronberg.</p> + +<p class="author">Thursday, August 19, 1897.</p> + +<p>We had a charming day; I am so glad we went. We +started a little after ten for Frankfort, where we had a +wait of 20 minutes. I wore my black voile and a little +black and jet toque in which I put a white aigrette, and +white gloves, so as not to be too black. The trajet is +short from Frankfort to Cronberg, about an hour. We +found two carriages (rather pretty victorias in wood +natural colour and cushions the same colour—they looked +very chic and country) and tall powdered footmen in the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_388" title="pg 388"> </a> +black and silver Imperial livery. There were two or +three people in the second carriage whom I didn't recognise +at first, but made out when we arrived. Val Prinsep, +the artist, and his wife, a very pretty woman, and a German +lady, also an artist I think. The Castle is not far +from the station, and Cronberg (the town) is rather picturesque. +The house is large—nothing particular in the +way of architecture, but stands well in a fair-sized park. +We were received in a fine hall, with pictures, carvings, +and plenty of old furniture. Countess Perponcher and +Baron Reischach received us. Count Seckendorff was +not there, which I regretted, as I like him very much +and should have been glad to see him again. Countess +Perponcher took us to a small room on the ground floor +where we left our parasols, wraps, etc., and then we went +through one or two handsome rooms into a large salon +where the company was already assembled. Lady Layard +and her niece were staying in the house, also Prince +Albert Solms (our old friend) with his wife. He is +very ill, poor fellow, and can hardly get about. Some +English friends arrived from Hombourg—Lady Cork, +Lord Algy Lennox. About 1.30 the Empress came—always +the same charming manner, and always her sad +eyes. I thought she looked thinner and paler perhaps, +but not ill. We went immediately to luncheon—the Empress +first, alone, all of us following. Baron Reischach +sat opposite to her, between me and Lady Cork. The +talk was easy, the Empress talking a great deal. Val +Prinsep too did his share, and Lady Cork is always +clever and original. After luncheon we went back +to the big drawing-room and looked at some of the +beautiful things. Angeli's last portrait of the Empress +had just come and had been placed (temporarily only) +in a corner where the light was not very good. It +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_389" title="pg 389"> </a> +is a fine picture—the Empress all in black with her +splendid pearl necklace, seated on a sort of carved +throne, or high-backed chair—all the shading dark, +the only bit of colour the yellow ribbon of the Black +Eagle. It is a striking picture and very like her, +but so inexpressibly sad. She called each one of us in +turn to come and sit by her. She spoke very warmly +of W. to me, and asked me if I didn't regret my London +life, and if I did not find it very difficult to settle +down in France after having lived ten years in London, +"the great centre of the world." It is curious how universal +that feeling is with English people (and "au +fond," notwithstanding all the years she has lived in +Germany, the Empress is absolutely English still in her +heart). They think that life in England—London—spoils +one for everything else. I told her I didn't think +I was to be pitied for living in Paris—after all, my boy +was a Frenchman and all his interests were in France. +She asked about Francis, how old he was, and couldn't +believe that I was going back to fêter his 21 years, and +thought it was fortunate for him that his early education +had been in England.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus442.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the Black Eagle" id="illus442" title="The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the Black Eagle"> </a> +<p class="center small">The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the +Black Eagle<br > +The last portrait of the Empress by the artist Angeli</p></div> + +<p>We talked a little about French literature—I think +she reads everything—and she asked about Bayreuth, +were there many French people there. I told her the +Director of the Grand Opéra, among others, who wants +to have the "Meistersinger" in France, but Mdme. Wagner +is rather unwilling—the choruses, she thinks, are too +difficult either to translate or to sing with the true spirit +in any other language. The Empress said, "She is quite +right; it is one of the most difficult of Wagner's operas, +and essentially German in plot and structure. It scarcely +bears translation in English and in French would be impossible; +neither is the music, in my mind, at all suited +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_390" title="pg 390"> </a> +to the French character. The mythical legend of the +Cycle would appeal more to the French, I think, than the +ordinary German life." I daresay she is right. When +she congédied me I talked some little time to Prince +Solms, Reischach, and others. Then it was getting time +for us to go, as we had to take the 4.30 train back to +Frankfort. I was standing by the window, from which +there is a fine open view over plain and woods, when the +Empress came up to say good-bye. She supposed I was +going back to France, where I would find my boy. "You +are very fortunate to have him still with you; it gives +such an interest to your life." She kissed me, and then +said sadly, "<em>My</em> task is done—I am quite alone." I +watched her go out of the room, across the hall, and up +the great staircase, with her long black dress trailing behind, +alone—as she said. It must be an awful solitude +for her—living there in her beautiful house, filled with +art treasures of all kinds, and with friends near all summer +at Hombourg, Wiesbaden, etc., who are only too +happy to go to her—but her real life is over, and she is +as far away from Germany and the throbbing pulse of +the nation as if she were a cloistered nun.</p> + +<p>The Val Prinseps came away with us, and we made a +bout de chemin together until they branched off to Hombourg. +He has quite the same idea of the Empress; +says "elle se ronge," that she had always had such aspirations +and wanted to do so much for the intellectual life +of Germany. Mary and I got to Frankfort in good time, +and home for dinner. We were glad to prowl about in +the garden after dinner, when it was deliciously cool and +the air heavy almost with the scent of roses, of which she +has quantities. We saw the Rhine and the lights of Mayence +in the distance. I suppose this place too I shall +never see again, as I think Mary has made up her mind +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_391" title="pg 391"> </a> +to sell Meingeningen. I think she will settle in Ireland +if she can get the old Townshend place where she was +one summer. It is ideal, close on the sea, with a splendid +park rising up behind the Castle, but will be a great +change for her.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">South Pavilion, West Cowes</span>,<br > +August 9, 1900.</p> + +<p>We are becoming accustomed, Dear, to the wind and +rain and a general damp feeling. I don't think I have +been really dry since we left Paris. I live in my serge +dress and a waterproof. I should have been quite comfortable +if I could have changed with the other one, but +Bessie Talleyrand is disporting herself in it. When we +arrived we found everyone in mourning for the Duke of +Edinburgh, the first days not so marked, but since the +Osborne has arrived with the Prince and Princess on +board one sees nothing but black, and Bessie was much +disgusted, having only blue. The steam launches and +boats go all day between the yachts and the shore. +Everyone, men and women, wears those remarkable yellow +mackintoshes; you can't tell them apart, and the +boats look as if they were loaded with great yellow +"ballots." The two American yachts, Nahma, Mrs. Goelet, +and Itwana, Mr. Armour, are splendid, enormous +steamers and beautifully kept. Yesterday after lunch +Bessie and I started in the wind and rain to drive over to +Osborne and write ourselves down for the Queen. I am +afraid I sha'n't see her, which will be a great disappointment +to me; but the ladies here tell me she is much affected +by the Duke of Edinburgh's death, and after all, +the Prince has only just got back from his funeral. The +drive through Cowes is not very interesting, through +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_392" title="pg 392"> </a> +dirty, smelly little streets; but once over the ferry +(which one crosses in a boat large enough to take the +Queen's carriage with four horses) it is pretty enough, +up a long hill with fine trees and a few places. We didn't +see the Castle, as of course we were stopped at the gates, +which were open, with a policeman standing just inside. +The park looked fine, grass and flower beds beautifully +kept. We wrote ourselves down and I left a card for the +Duchess of Roxburghe, who is in waiting. We went +for tea to the Club garden, and there I saw the Duchess +of Roxburghe, who told me the Queen would certainly +see me. We dined quietly at home, rather a fancy meal, +but we prefer that to going out. There is a nice little +dining-room, and Joseph waits. How he gets on down-stairs +with the three maiden ladies who run the establishment +I don't know. He doesn't speak or understand +one word of English and has never been out of France +before. He went nearly mad over that remarkable railway +journey of ours across country from Eastbourne to +Cowes, where we changed about 10 times (all the luggage +naturally being transferred each time), lost all our +connections everywhere and arrived at Cowes at 10.30 +at night, having left Eastbourne at 2. He is much impressed +with the uncleanliness of the house, and said to +me just now, "Si Madame voyait les torchons <em>sales</em> dont +on se sert pour essuyer les assiettes <em>propres</em>, Madame ne +mangerait jamais à la maison."</p> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">East Cowes</span>,<br > +Sunday, August 12, 1900.</p> + +<p>I had two notes this morning, one from Miss Knollys +saying the Princess would receive me, and one from +Madame d'Arcos saying the Empress Eugénie would +like us to come to tea with her on the Thistle at 5. I +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_393" title="pg 393"> </a> +had rather hesitated about writing myself down for the +Empress. I had never seen her, and W. was in such +violent opposition always to the Empire that I never saw +any of the Imperial family; but Madame d'Arcos said +Bessie and I were the only Frenchwomen at Cowes; we +had been everywhere—on the Osborne, to the Queen, +etc., and it was rude not to do the same thing for the +Empress—au fond, I was rather glad to have the opportunity, +as I had never seen her. We went to the club +garden after church, as I wanted to find a friend who +would lend me a steam launch to go out to the Osborne. +Lord Llangattock offered his, and also said he +would take us to the Thistle for tea, as they were going +on board to say good-bye to the Empress (they leave to-night). +I wore my black and white foulard and a big +black hat with feathers (never a sailor hat), which could +go, as the day was fine and the sea smooth. The Princess +was not there when I arrived; she had gone to the +service on the Victoria and Albert. Miss Knollys appeared +and we sat some time talking on deck. I was +leaning over the railing when the Royal launch arrived, +and I was astounded, after all these years (7), at the +appearance of the Princess. Just the same slight, youthful +figure and light step. The Duke of York came forward +first and talked a little. He was dressed in undress +admiral's uniform and looked very well. Then the Princess +came, quite unchanged. She was simply dressed, in +mourning, and looked quite as she did the last time I +saw her, when she was also in mourning (for Prince +Eddie). She kissed me, seemed pleased to see me, and +we sat on two straw chairs, under the awning on the +deck, talking about all sorts of things. She said the +Duke of Edinburgh's death was a great grief to them. +They were very fond of him, and it was sudden; and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_394" title="pg 394"> </a> +spoke most sadly about the Empress Frederick, who +seems to be dying, and of a cancer. It seems that she +knows quite well what is the matter with her and what +is before her, as she nursed her husband through his long +malady. Isn't it awful? She spoke about Francis, recalling +his first afternoon at Marlborough House, when +he was quite small and wept bitterly when the negro +minstrels appeared. I told her he was working for +diplomacy, and she said she would be much pleased to +see him when he came to London as attaché.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus448.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of Wight." id="illus448" title="The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the Black Eagle"></a> + +<p class="center small">Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of Wight.<br> +From a photograph by Broderick.</p></div> + +<p>The Prince came and talked a little while, and also +recalled the last time we met last summer on the quai at +Nuremberg, both coming from Marienbad, and swallowing +hastily a cup of very hot coffee. I thought he +looked grave and preoccupied. He talked a little about +Cowes. He said he never remembered such a bad week—awful +weather and few yachts. He was very complimentary +about the two big American yachts, Itwana +and Nahma; said he had never seen the Nahma, which +he regretted, but he didn't know Mrs. Goelet—did I? +"Oh yes, very well, ever since she was a child, and her +mother and father before." I was sure she would be very +pleased to receive them. The Prince said they were in +such deep mourning that they had been on no yacht, and +he hoped there would be no party. I said Mrs. Goelet +herself was in deep mourning. After some consultation +with the Princess they said they would like to go on +board to-morrow morning at 12 o'clock (they leave early +Tuesday morning), and I promised to speak to Mrs. +Goelet.</p> + +<p>He was amused when I said I liked the "Japs" so +much, as he rather invented them. They came to sing to +him one summer when he was ill at Cowes and on his +yacht all the time. There are four people, three women +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_395" title="pg 395"> </a> +and a man (a Frenchman), all masked, the women in +pretty Japanese dresses and the man in ordinary clothes. +One woman accompanies at the piano by heart, and extremely +well; the other two and the man sing and dance—dancing +very moderate—a sort of "walk around," but +the singing very good; all English except one or two +little French songs the man sings alone. One of their +favourite ditties, "Mary housemaid," always brings +down the house. It is just the sort of thing that would +have amused us in our young days when we used to play +and sing by heart and invent steps. The women are +very graceful—I don't know if they are pretty, as one +never sees their faces—and the man extraordinary, very +amusing and never vulgar.</p> + +<p>I think I must have been a long time on the yacht, and +nothing could be more gracious and sympathetic than the +Princess. She told me the Queen would certainly receive +me. I hadn't more than time to get back where +Bessie and Borghese were very hungry waiting for +luncheon, and to start again at 4; this time with Bessie +and the Llangattocks for the Thistle. We were received +by Madame d'Arcos, Mlle. Darauvilliers, and M. +Rambaut. They told us the Empress had a cold and was +very hoarse; had been forbidden by the doctor to come +on deck, and also to talk, but that she would receive us +in the cabin. We went down almost immediately, preceded +by Madame d'Arcos, who said we must not stay +long, as the Empress ought not to talk. She was standing +in her cabin, still a handsome, stately figure, with +beautiful brow and eyes, and charming manner, more +animated than I had imagined. She was very well +dressed in black. She made us sit down and talked herself +a great deal, always about Paris, the Bassanos +(speaking most warmly of the Duke), d'Albuféras, and +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_396" title="pg 396"> </a> +various mutual friends. She knew Francis was to work +for diplomacy, and said she could wish him nothing better +than to walk in his father's footsteps. We were afraid +we were tiring her, as she talked all the time. Twice the +"dame d'honneur" appeared, but she waved her away. +When she finally dismissed us she said "Je ne dirai pas +adieu, mais au revoir"—regretted very much that she +could not come on deck and have tea with us, but that we +must certainly stay. We had a pleasant half hour talking +with the others, and then there came a message from +her begging that we would take her launch and cruise +about in the harbour. I accepted gladly, as I wanted to +communicate with the Nahma and didn't exactly know +how to manage. The French ladies too wished to see the +American yacht, so off we started in the Empress's launch. +It seemed funny after all these years to be suddenly +thrown with the Empress and her suite and careering +about in her launch. Mrs. Goelet was not on board, but +the steward took the visitors all over the yacht, and I discovered +Mrs. Warren and told her that the Prince and +Princess would like to go on board to-morrow—she said +she was quite sure her daughter would be very happy +to see them. I found a note from the Duchess of Roxburghe +when I got home, saying that the Queen would +receive me to-morrow at 4.30 at Osborne, so my day +will be full, as I told Mrs. Goelet I would come to the +Nahma to present her to the Prince and Princess.</p> + + +<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">East Pavilion, Cowes, Isle of Wight</span>,<br > +Monday, August 13, 1900.</p> + +<p>Well, Dear, I am just back from Osborne. I have the +salon all to myself, Bessie and Borghese are out, and I +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_397" title="pg 397"> </a> +will write you all about my audience while it is fresh in +my memory, but I must begin at the beginning and tell +you about the Royal visit to the Nahma, which went off +very well. A little before twelve Mr. Warren, Mrs. Goelet's +brother, came for us and we went off at once to the +yacht. The Royal party arrived very punctually, Prince +and Princess, Duke and Duchess of York, Princess Victoria, +and various gentlemen. They were all delighted +with the yacht, particularly the Duke of York, who saw +everything. He called an officer of the Osborne to see +some arrangement of signals which it seems is wonderful, +and said they had nothing so perfect in the Royal +Yacht. Mrs. Goelet did the honours very well and simply, +receiving the Princes at the gangway, with her son +and daughter on each side of her, a pretty, graceful figure +in her plain black dress. I remained on board to lunch +after the Princes departed, and they sent me ashore at +2.30 as I had just time to dress and go to Osborne.</p> + +<p>I started again a little before 4, wearing my black +taffetas trimmed with lace and a tulle bonnet and white +aigrette (quite costume de ville—I could not go to the +Queen in a serge skirt and big hat). I took Joseph with +me in plain black livery. We arrived quite in time, as +there was no delay at the ferry this time, and the large +gates were open, the man making a sign to us to drive +in. There were two or three policemen standing near the +gate and in the park. The park is pretty—not very large +but beautifully green, and as we got near the house, +quantities of flowers—a mass of colour. The house is +not handsome—rather imposing, a large grey stone +house with two wings, and flower-beds close up to the +windows. Three or four footmen in plain black livery +were waiting in the hall, and they took me at once upstairs +to the ladies' drawing-room—a nice room at the +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_398" title="pg 398"> </a> +side of the house not looking out to sea. The Duchess +of Roxburghe was waiting for me, and we talked about +fifteen minutes. Then came a Highland servant saying, +"Her Majesty was ready to receive <em>Lady</em> Waddington." +The Duchess and I went downstairs, walked through +various galleries, and stopped at a door where there was +no servant. The Duchess knocked, the Queen's voice +said, "Come in," and I found myself in a beautiful large +salon, all the windows opening on the sea. The Queen, +dressed as usual in black, was seated in the middle of the +room facing the door. I had barely time to make one +curtsey—she put out her hand and made me sit down +next to her. She spoke to me first in French (just as +she always did when I was at the Embassy—to mark, I +suppose, that I was the French Ambassadress), "Je suis +très heureuse de vous revoir—I think we can speak English—how +much has happened since we met"; and then +we talked about all sorts of things. I thought she looked +extremely well—of course I couldn't tell if her sight was +gone, as she knew I was coming and I sat close to her. +Her eyes were blue and clear, and her memory and conversation +quite the same. She thanked me for my letter; +said the Duke of Edinburgh's death was a great blow to +her. It was so sudden, she had not thought him ill. She +had lost three children all very dear to her, and it was +hard at her age to see her children go before her. She +spoke at once (so moderately) of the caricatures and +various little incidents that had occurred in France. I +said I was very glad to have an opportunity of telling +her that everybody in France (except for a few hot-headed +radicals and anti-English) was most indignant +at such gratuitous insults not only to the Queen but to +a woman. She said she quite understood that—that +wherever she had been in France everybody had done +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_399" title="pg 399"> </a> +what they could to make her stay happy and comfortable; +that she never could forget it, and hoped the French +nation felt that—also that she would never dream of +holding the country responsible for the radical press, but +"my children and my people feel it very deeply." We +talked about the King of Italy's murder (she was much +pleased with the expression in one of the Italian papers +"è morto in piedi") and she expressed great sympathy +for Queen Margherita—"She is fond of Italy and is always +thinking and planning what she can do for the +people." We also talked about the Shah and the attentat +in Paris. I said that left me rather indifferent, but she +answered instantly, "You are quite wrong—it is the +principle, not the person, that is attacked in those cases." +I then remarked that it was a great pity, I thought, that +one of those gentlemen (anarchists, not sovereigns) +shouldn't be lynched; that I believed the one thing they +were afraid of was the justice of the people. She said, +"That is not a very Christian sentiment"; but I think +she didn't altogether disagree with me. She asked me +about Francis—was he working for diplomacy; and then, +I don't know exactly how, we began talking about mixed +marriages. She said she didn't think religion ought to +be an invincible obstacle. I said I thought with her, but +that French Protestants were very strict. I told her it +had been said that my husband, who was certainly a very +large-minded man in most things, was really narrow +about Catholics. She said, with such a charming smile, +"Oh, I can't think M. Waddington was ever narrow +about anything, I always thought him one of the most +large-minded, just men I ever knew." I must say I was +pleased, and W. always felt that for some reason or +another he was sympathetic to her. We talked a little +about the Empress Frederick; she said the last news was +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_400" title="pg 400"> </a> +better, but she evidently didn't want to pursue the subject. +We talked on some little time, and when she finally +dismissed me, she said, "I hope you will come back to +England, and whenever you do I shall be very glad to see +you." She shook hands—I backed myself to the door, +opened it, and there found the Highland servant, who +took me back to the drawing-room where the Duchess +of Roxburghe was waiting. She suggested that we +should go for a turn in the garden, and when she went +to get her hat I looked about the room, which is quite +plainly furnished—a grand piano, comfortable furniture, +not pretty, and no particular style.</p> + +<p>We walked about the gardens a little, which are pretty, +such quantities of flowers, and had tea under the trees. +Two of the ladies came out—Mrs. Grant and Miss +Harbord. They were very anxious to know if I found +the Queen changed after seven years, but I really can't +say I did. My impression is that they find her older. +They say she felt the Duke of Edinburgh's death very +much, and that she is very worried about the Empress +Frederick, though she doesn't talk much about her. It +was lovely sitting under the trees, so cool and quiet after +the noise and glare of Cowes. All the people bowed as +we drove home through Cowes. I think they took Joseph +in his black livery for one of the Queen's servants.</p> + +<p>I must tell you that Joseph and Élise are also moving +in high society. Joseph came with a most smiling face +to me Saturday night to say that one of his friends +was chef on the Empress's yacht (the Thistle) and had +invited them to breakfast on Sunday on the yacht. I +said they could go, and when Bessie and I were going to +church we saw them start—he in the regulation Cowes +blue serge costume (<em>not</em> the short, very short, Eton jacket +which is the dress attire of the Club men) and yellow +<a class="pagenum break" id="page_401" title="pg 401"> </a> +shoes, and she in my old purple foulard, with a very nice +little toque. A very smart little boat was waiting for +them.</p> + +<p>Now, my Dear, I must stop, as I am exhausted, and a +perfect Mrs. Jellyby, papers flying all over the place, as +I am writing at the open window, and ink all over me, +fingers, hair, etc. I can't say, as Madame de Sévigné +did, "ma plume vole," for mine stops and scratches, and +makes holes in the paper, and does everything it can to +make my writing difficult. I wonder why I hate it so—I +do—as soon as I sit down to my writing-table I want +to go out or play on the piano, or even crochet little petticoats—anything +rather than write. I suppose I shall never see the Queen again—at +her age it isn't very likely, especially if I wait another seven years without coming +over. I am glad she received me, it was a great pleasure.</p> + + +<h3><em>Note.</em></h3> + +<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Paris, 29, Rue Auguste Vacquerie</span>,<br > +Dimanche, 29 Decembre, 1901.</p> + +<p>Of course I never saw the Queen again. She began +to fail that same autumn (1900) after her return home +from Balmoral, and died at Osborne the 22d of January, +1901—a beautiful death, painless, sleeping away and +all her children and grandchildren with her. It isn't only +the Queen who has disappeared—it is the century. England +will enter on a new phase—but it must be different +from the chapter that has just closed.</p> + +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_402" title="pg 402"> </a></p> +<p> </p> +<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_403" title="pg 403"> </a></p> + + +<h2>INDEX</h2> + +<ul class="none"> + +<li> </li> + +<li>A</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>d'A——, Countess, <a href="#page_235">235</a></li> + +<li>A——, Lady, <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a></li> + +<li>A——, Lord, experience on the House of Lords boat at the Naval Review, <a href="#page_264">264</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a></li> + +<li>A——, Mdme., <a href="#page_87">87</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a></li> + +<li>Aberdeen, Lady, <a href="#page_313">313</a></li> + +<li>Aberdeen, Lord, <a href="#page_216">216</a></li> + +<li>Abinger, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_172">172</a></li> + +<li>Adams, <a href="#page_234">234</a></li> + +<li>Adelaïde, Mlle., <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_10">10</a> <em>et passim</em></li> + +<li>d'Agoult, <a href="#page_343">343</a></li> + +<li>Albanesi, <a href="#page_234">234</a></li> + +<li>Albani, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a></li> + +<li>Albany, Duke and Duchess of, <a href="#page_179">179;</a> +<ul class="none"> + <li>death of the Duke, <a href="#page_206">206</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Albert, Arch Duke and Arch Duchess, of Austria, <a href="#page_56">56;</a> + <ul class="none"> + <li>incident in Paris, <a href="#page_57">57</a></li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Albert, Prince, <a href="#page_177">177</a>; tomb, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li> + +<li>Albert Solms, Prince, <a href="#page_388">388</a></li> + +<li>Albert Victor, Prince, Duke of Clarence, <a href="#page_184">184</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>illness, <a href="#page_333">333</a>;</li> + <li>engagement to Princess May, <a href="#page_333">333</a>;</li> + <li>death, <a href="#page_334">334</a>;</li> + <li>funeral, <a href="#page_336">336</a>;</li> + <li>sarcophagus, <a href="#page_369">369</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>d'Albufèras, <a href="#page_395">395</a></li> + +<li>Alexander III., Emperor of Russia, <a href="#page_4">4</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>the procession to the Kremlin, <a href="#page_44">44-46</a>;</li> + <li>danger from the Nihilists, <a href="#page_52">52</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>;</li> + <li>coronation of, <a href="#page_65">65-67</a>;</li> + <li>the breakfast following the Coronation, <a href="#page_68">68-70</a>;</li> + <li>the reception after the Coronation, <a href="#page_71">71-73</a>;</li> + <li>at the Court Ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>;</li> + <li>at the great ball at the Palace, <a href="#page_78">78</a>;</li> + <li>the Fête Populaire, <a href="#page_82">82</a>;</li> + <li>at the Palace ball, <a href="#page_86">86-90</a>;</li> + <li>the gala dinner, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a>;</li> + <li>the revue, <a href="#page_102">102-104</a>;</li> + <li>his home at Peterhof, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Alexander, Prince, of Battenberg, <a href="#page_236">236</a></li> + +<li>Alexis, Grand Duke, at the coronation of his brother, Emperor Alexander III., <a href="#page_66">66</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at the Palace ball, <a href="#page_86">86</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Alice, Princess, of Hesse, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li> + +<li>Amédée, King, <a href="#page_92">92</a></li> + +<li>Amélie, Princess, of Schleswig-Holstein, <a href="#page_326">326</a></li> + +<li>Ampthill, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a></li> + +<li>Anne, ——, <a href="#page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>Antrim, Lady, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a></li> + +<li>d'Aoste, Duc, <a href="#page_6">6</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>described, <a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>, <a href="#page_361">361</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Appert, General, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a></li> + +<li>Appert, Madame, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>her daughters, <a href="#page_154">154</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>d'Arcos, Madame, <a href="#page_395">395</a></li> + +<li>Armour, Mr., <a href="#page_391">391</a></li> + +<li>Arran, Lady, <a href="#page_377">377</a></li> + +<li>Arthur, Sir George, <a href="#page_375">375</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a>, <a href="#page_382">382</a></li> + +<li>Ashburton, Lady, <a href="#page_349">349</a></li> + +<li>Ashburton, Lady Louisa, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li> + +<li>Astor, Mrs. <a href="#page_357">357</a></li> + +<li>Augusta, Empress, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li> + +<li>d'Aumale, Duc, <a href="#page_217">217</a>, <a href="#page_303">303</a>, <a href="#page_304">304</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>B</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_404" title="pg 404"> </a></li> + +<li>Baden, Grand Duchess of, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li> + +<li>Baldwin, Admiral, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>entertains the Waddingtons and others on his flagship, <a href="#page_120">120-123</a>;</li> + <li>impressions of the Coronation, <a href="#page_137">137</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Baldwin, Mrs., <a href="#page_151">151</a></li> + +<li>Barrington, Mr. Eric, <a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a></li> + +<li>Bassanos, <a href="#page_395">395</a></li> + +<li>Bayard, Mr., <a href="#page_377">377</a></li> + +<li>Beatrice, Princess, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at the opening of Parliament, <a href="#page_237">237</a>;</li> + <li>at Windsor Castle, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Bedford, Duchess of, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_257">257</a>, <a href="#page_280">280</a></li> + +<li>Bedford, Duke of, <a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a></li> + +<li>Belgians, King of the, <a href="#page_249">249</a></li> + +<li>Belgians, Queen of the, <a href="#page_256">256</a></li> + +<li>Benckendorff, Colonel, <a href="#page_34">34</a> <em>et passim</em></li> + +<li>Bérard, M., <a href="#page_24">24</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a></li> + +<li>Beresford, Lord Charles, <a href="#page_296">296</a></li> + +<li>Bernadotte, <a href="#page_138">138</a></li> + +<li>Bernhardt, Mdme. Sarah, <a href="#page_135">135</a></li> + +<li>Bille, Elsa de, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a></li> + +<li>Bille, Mdme. de, <a href="#page_315">315</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a></li> + +<li>Bismarck, <a href="#page_15">15</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>talks with M. Waddington, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>;</li> + <li>friction with the Empress, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Bismarck, Herbert, <a href="#page_243">243</a></li> + +<li>Bleichroeder, <a href="#page_19">19</a></li> + +<li>Blennerhasset, Lady, <a href="#page_340">340</a></li> + +<li>Blumenthal's, <a href="#page_302">302</a></li> + +<li>Böhm, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a></li> + +<li>Boleyn, Anne, <a href="#page_175">175</a></li> + +<li>Bondy, M. de, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a></li> + +<li>Borghese, <a href="#page_395">395</a></li> + +<li>Borthwick, Lady, <a href="#page_251">251</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_272">272</a></li> + +<li>Boston, Lord, <a href="#page_218">218</a></li> + +<li>Boulanger, <a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_296">296</a></li> + +<li>Bowen, Judge, <a href="#page_367">367</a></li> + +<li>Braganza, Duchesse de, <a href="#page_256">256</a></li> + +<li>Brandt, Mr., <a href="#page_163">163</a></li> + +<li>Brasseys, <a href="#page_187">187</a></li> + +<li>Brennen, Mme. and Mlle. de, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li> + +<li>Bridge, Dr., <a href="#page_348">348</a></li> + +<li>Brown, Mrs., <a href="#page_169">169</a></li> + +<li>Brown, John, tablet in memory of, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li> + +<li>Brownlows, <a href="#page_346">346</a></li> + +<li>Bryce, Mr., <a href="#page_307">307</a></li> + +<li>Btetju, Count, <a href="#page_244">244</a></li> + +<li>Buccleuch, Duchess of, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_257">257</a></li> + +<li>"Buffalo Bill," <a href="#page_243">243</a></li> + +<li>Bulgaria, Prince of, <a href="#page_218">218</a></li> + +<li>Bülow, <a href="#page_337">337</a></li> + +<li>Bunsen, George de, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a></li> + +<li>Bunsen, Mlle. Beatrice de, <a href="#page_285">285</a></li> + +<li>Bunsen, Mary de, <a href="#page_386">386</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a></li> + +<li>Burns, Walter, <a href="#page_295">295</a></li> + +<li>Burtons, <a href="#page_354">354</a></li> + +<li>Bury, Mlle. de, "sur Racine," <a href="#page_212">212</a></li> + +<li>Bylandt, Comte de, at the Naval Review, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a></li> + +<li>Bylandt, Comtesse de, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_338">338</a></li> + +<li>Byng, Colonel, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_369">369</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>C</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>C——, Lord, Indian Secretary, <a href="#page_252">252</a></li> + +<li>Calmon, Robert, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a></li> + +<li>Cambridge, Duchess of, <a href="#page_180">180</a></li> + +<li>Cambridge, Duke of, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a></li> + +<li>Cameron, Sir Roderick, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>in Scotland, <a href="#page_287">287</a> <em>et seq.</em></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Campbell, Mr., <a href="#page_207">207</a></li> + +<li>Carlingford, Lord, <a href="#page_184">184</a></li> + +<li>Canterbury, Archbishop of, <a href="#page_355">355</a>, <a href="#page_356">356</a></li> + +<li>Carpe, <a href="#page_272">272</a></li> + +<li>Carrington, Lord, <a href="#page_346">346</a></li> + +<li>Catherine II., <a href="#page_90">90</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a></li> + +<li>Cavendish, Lord Frederick, murder of, <a href="#page_3">3</a></li> + +<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_405" title="pg 405"> </a></li> + +<li>Cecil, Lady Gwendoline, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li> + +<li>Cecil, Lady Margaret, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a></li> + +<li>Cecil, Lord Edward, <a href="#page_303">303</a></li> + +<li>Chaine, Col., <a href="#page_337">337</a></li> + +<li>Chambord, Comte de, illness of, <a href="#page_156">156</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>death, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Charles IX., <a href="#page_143">143</a></li> + +<li>Charles Louis, Arch Duke and Arch Duchess, of Austria, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_66">66</a>;</li> + <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a>;</li> + <li>drive with the Empress at the revue, <a href="#page_103">103</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Chemin, <a href="#page_11">11</a></li> + +<li>Chesterfield, Lord, <a href="#page_219">219</a></li> + +<li>Chetwode, Sir George and Lady, <a href="#page_172">172</a></li> + +<li>Chigi, Marchesa, <a href="#page_358">358</a></li> + +<li>Childers, Mr., <a href="#page_182">182</a></li> + +<li>Christian, Prince, of Schleswig-Holstein, <a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a></li> + +<li>Christian, Princess, <a href="#page_254">254</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a></li> + +<li>Churchill, Lady, <a href="#page_192">192</a></li> + +<li>Clanwilliam, Lady, <a href="#page_315">315</a></li> + +<li>Clark, Stanley, <a href="#page_363">363</a></li> + +<li>Colocotroni, Mlle., <a href="#page_71">71</a></li> + +<li>Compans, Ternaux, <a href="#page_125">125</a></li> + +<li>Connaught, Duchess of, <a href="#page_368">368</a></li> + +<li>Connaught, Duke of, <a href="#page_236">236</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at the Jubilee Te Deum, <a href="#page_249">249</a>;</li> + <li>as a soldier, <a href="#page_258">258</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Constantine, Grand Duchess, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a></li> + +<li>Constantine, Grand Duke, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a></li> + +<li>Corcelle, François de, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a></li> + +<li>Cork, Lady, <a href="#page_388">388</a></li> + +<li>Cork, Lord, <a href="#page_197">197</a></li> + +<li>Correa, Brazilian Minister, <a href="#page_270">270</a></li> + +<li>Corti, Ambassador, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a></li> + +<li>Courcel, Mdme. de, <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a></li> + +<li>Courcel, M. de, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a></li> + +<li>Coutouly, M., <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a></li> + +<li>Coventry, Lord, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, <a href="#page_357">357</a></li> + +<li>Cowell, Sir John, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a></li> + +<li>Cranborne, Lady, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li> + +<li>Cranborne, Lord, <a href="#page_255">255</a></li> + +<li>Cumming, Jean Gordon, <a href="#page_235">235</a></li> + +<li>Curzon, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_310">310</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>D</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>D——, Count, Austrian Ambassador, <a href="#page_236">236</a></li> + +<li>Dalhousie, Lord, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a></li> + +<li>Darauvilliers, Mlle., <a href="#page_395">395</a></li> + +<li>Deichmann, Baron, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a></li> + +<li>Deichmann, Baroness Hilda, <a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>described, <a href="#page_210">210</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Deichmann, Elsa, <a href="#page_317">317</a></li> + +<li>Deichmann, Hilda, <a href="#page_254">254</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_321">321</a></li> + +<li>Deichmann, Wilhelm, <a href="#page_351">351</a></li> + +<li>Delamere, Lady, <a href="#page_354">354</a></li> + +<li>Delawarr, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li> + +<li>Denmark, Crown Prince of, <a href="#page_305">305</a></li> + +<li>Denmark, King of, <a href="#page_249">249</a></li> + +<li>Derby, Lady, reception at home of, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>entertains at Knowsley, <a href="#page_228">228-232</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Derby, Lord, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a></li> + +<li>Déroulède, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li> + +<li>Deym, Bianca, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_320">320</a></li> + +<li>Deym, Countess, <a href="#page_315">315</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a></li> + +<li>Dolgourouky, Prince, <a href="#page_96">96</a></li> + +<li>Dubois, Marie, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li> + +<li>Dudzeele, Countess, dances with the Emperor at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a></li> + +<li>Dufferin, Lord and Lady, entertain at Walmer Castle, <a href="#page_358">358-360</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>rank, <a href="#page_371">371</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Duncan, <a href="#page_287">287</a></li> + +<li>Dupoutet, <a href="#page_347">347</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>E</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Eames, Miss, <a href="#page_295">295</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li> + +<li>Edinburgh, Duchess of, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_200">200</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li> + +<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_406" title="pg 406"> </a></li> + +<li>Edinburgh, Duke of, <a href="#page_6">6</a>, <a href="#page_45">45</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>daughters, <a href="#page_249">249</a>;</li> + <li>at the Jubilee Te Deum, <a href="#page_249">249</a>;</li> + <li>death, <a href="#page_391">391</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Edward, Prince, of Saxe-Weimar, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_357">357</a></li> + +<li>Edwardes, Gay, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a></li> + +<li>Edwardes, Henry, <a href="#page_319">319</a></li> + +<li>Edwardes, Mrs., <a href="#page_323">323</a></li> + +<li>Érard, <a href="#page_320">320</a></li> + +<li>Erroll, Lady, <a href="#page_176">176</a></li> + +<li>Esher, Lord, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li> + +<li>d'Estournelles, <a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a></li> + +<li>d'Estournelles, Mdme., <a href="#page_326">326</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a></li> + +<li>Eugénie, Empress, <a href="#page_266">266</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at Cowes, <a href="#page_395">395</a>, <a href="#page_396">396</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Eulenbourg, Count, <a href="#page_81">81</a></li> + +<li>Eulenbourg, Countess, <a href="#page_324">324</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>F</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Falbe, Mme. de, <a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a></li> + +<li>Falbe, M. de, <a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_305">305</a></li> + +<li>Fawkes, Guy, confession, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li> + +<li>Fayet, Commandant, <a href="#page_7">7</a></li> + +<li>Fife, Duke of, <a href="#page_276">276</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>engagement to Princess Louise, <a href="#page_301">301</a>;</li> + <li>marriage, <a href="#page_305">305</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Florian, Count de, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a></li> + +<li>Florian, Countess de, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_306">306</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at White Lodge, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Forbes, <a href="#page_233">233</a></li> + +<li>Forges, M. Blanchard de, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li> + +<li>Francis, Miss W., <a href="#page_287">287</a></li> + +<li>François d'Assises, King, <a href="#page_92">92</a></li> + +<li>Frederick, Empress, Crown Princess, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>described, <a href="#page_253">253</a>;</li> + <li>visit to Versailles, <a href="#page_309">309</a>;</li> + <li>at Windsor, <a href="#page_310">310-312</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a>;</li> + <li>luncheonat Ferdinand Rothschild's, <a href="#page_314">314</a>;</li> + <li>receives the Waddingtons, <a href="#page_378">378</a>;</li> + <li>at Cronberg, <a href="#page_387">387-390</a>;</li> + <li>illness, <a href="#page_394">394</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Frederick III., Emperor, Crown Prince, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>failing health, <a href="#page_254">254</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a>;</li> + <li>death, <a href="#page_282">282</a>;</li> + <li>funeral service, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Frederica, Princess, of Hanover, <a href="#page_204">204</a></li> + +<li>Frederick Charles, Prince, <a href="#page_243">243</a></li> + +<li>Frederick Charles, Princess, <a href="#page_20">20</a></li> + +<li>Freeman, Violet, <a href="#page_321">321</a></li> + +<li>Froude, J. A., <a href="#page_229">229</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>on America, <a href="#page_231">231</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>G</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Galitzin, Prince, <a href="#page_49">49</a></li> + +<li>Gardner, Lady Winifred, <a href="#page_346">346</a></li> + +<li>Gayare, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li> + +<li>Gennadius, <a href="#page_336">336</a></li> + +<li>George II., <a href="#page_267">267</a></li> + +<li>George, Prince, <a href="#page_200">200</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>report of marriage to Princess May, <a href="#page_362">362</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Gevers, Baron, <a href="#page_338">338</a></li> + +<li>Ghika, Princess, <a href="#page_222">222</a></li> + +<li>Giers, M. de, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a></li> + +<li>Gilbert, <a href="#page_369">369</a></li> + +<li>Gille, Mdme., <a href="#page_107">107</a></li> + +<li>Gladstone, Mr. W. E., described, <a href="#page_3">3</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>versatility, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a>;</li> + <li>gives a reception, <a href="#page_188">188</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>;</li> + <li>dines at Mr. Murray's, <a href="#page_315">315</a>;</li> + <li>age, <a href="#page_346">346</a>;</li> + <li>makes his great Irish speech, <a href="#page_363">363</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Gladstone, Mrs. W. E., <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>gives a dinner for the Archbishop of Canterbury, <a href="#page_355">355</a>, <a href="#page_356">356</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Gladstone, Wm., <a href="#page_172">172</a></li> + +<li>Glinka's opera, "La Vie pour le Czar," <a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a></li> + +<li>Goelet, Mrs., <a href="#page_391">391</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>receives the Royal party aboard the Nahma, <a href="#page_397">397</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Gordon, "Chinese," murder of, <a href="#page_199">199</a></li> + +<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_407" title="pg 407"> </a></li> + +<li>Goschens, <a href="#page_184">184</a></li> + +<li>Gower, Mr. Leveson, <a href="#page_172">172</a></li> + +<li>Grant, General U. S., death, <a href="#page_218">218</a></li> + +<li>Grant, Mrs., <a href="#page_400">400</a></li> + +<li>Granville, Countess, <a href="#page_195">195</a></li> + +<li>Granville, Earl, entertains M. Waddington, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a></li> + +<li>Greece, King of, <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a>, <a href="#page_305">305</a></li> + +<li>Greece, Queen of, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>described, <a href="#page_72">72</a>;</li> + <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Greene, Plunkett, <a href="#page_302">302</a></li> + +<li>Grey, Lady Jane, <a href="#page_175">175</a></li> + +<li>Grieg, <a href="#page_273">273</a></li> + +<li>Griswold, Miss Gertrude, <a href="#page_234">234</a></li> + +<li>Grondal, Mdme., <a href="#page_302">302</a></li> + +<li>Guillemain, M., <a href="#page_348">348</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>H</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Halsbury, <a href="#page_237">237</a></li> + +<li>Hamilton, Duchess of, <a href="#page_236">236</a></li> + +<li>Hamilton, Lord and Lady Claud, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li> + +<li>Harbord, Miss, <a href="#page_400">400</a></li> + +<li>Harcourt, Lady, <a href="#page_174">174</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>presents Mme. Waddington to the Queen, <a href="#page_175">175</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Harcourt, Sir William, <a href="#page_174">174</a></li> + +<li>Hare, the actor, <a href="#page_346">346</a></li> + +<li>Hartington, Lord, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a></li> + +<li>Hatzfeldt, Comte, <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_303">303</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_325">325</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at Hatfield, <a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Hawaiian Secretary, <a href="#page_245">245</a></li> + +<li>Hayter, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_183">183</a>, <a href="#page_200">200</a></li> + +<li>Henrietta ——, <a href="#page_10">10</a> <em>et passim</em></li> + +<li>Henry, Prince, of Battenberg, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a></li> + +<li>Herberts, Ivor, <a href="#page_273">273</a></li> + +<li>Heretier, Grand Duke, <a href="#page_103">103</a></li> + +<li>Herkomer, his studio and pupils, <a href="#page_344">344-346</a></li> + +<li>Herschell, Lady, <a href="#page_359">359</a></li> + +<li>Herschell, Lord, <a href="#page_366">366</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a> +</li> +<li>Heurtel, Mme., <a href="#page_261">261</a></li> + +<li>Hoffman, Col. and Mrs., <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a></li> + +<li>Hollman, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li> + +<li>Hubert, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <em>et passim</em></li> + +<li>Hubert, Mdme., <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_10">10</a></li> + +<li>Huddlestone, Lady Diana, <a href="#page_279">279</a></li> + +<li>Humlicher, Marie, <a href="#page_374">374</a>, <a href="#page_375">375</a></li> + +<li>Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a></li> + +<li>Hurlbert, Mr., <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>I</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Isabella, Queen, <a href="#page_92">92</a></li> + +<li>Ivan the Terrible, <a href="#page_91">91</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>J</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Jansen, Mlle., <a href="#page_377">377</a></li> + +<li>Jaurès, Admiral, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>his hospitality, <a href="#page_118">118</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Jaurès, Mdme., <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a>;</li> + <li>aboard the Lancaster, <a href="#page_122">122</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Jay, Anna, <a href="#page_39">39</a></li> + +<li>Jersey, Lady, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>experiences at receptions, <a href="#page_211">211</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Jersey, Lord, <a href="#page_187">187</a></li> + +<li>Jeune, Mr. and Mrs., <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a></li> + +<li>Jeune, Sir Francis, <a href="#page_367">367</a></li> + +<li>Joachim, <a href="#page_272">272</a></li> + +<li>Johore, Maharajah of, <a href="#page_216">216</a></li> + +<li>Jomini, M., <a href="#page_120">120</a></li> + +<li>Joseph, <a href="#page_7">7</a></li> + +<li>Joy, Mr., <a href="#page_14">14</a></li> + +<li>Jusserand, J. J., <a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_277">277</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>, <a href="#page_380">380</a></li> + +<li>Juteau, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>K</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Kapilani, Queen, of the Sandwich Islands, <a href="#page_245">245</a>, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a></li> + +<li>Karolyi, Count, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a></li> + +<li>Karolyi, Count Victor, <a href="#page_240">240</a></li> + +<li>Karolyi, Countess Fanny, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a></li> + +<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_408" title="pg 408"> </a></li> + +<li>Karolyi, Nadine, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li> + +<li>Kenmare, Lord, <a href="#page_192">192</a></li> + +<li>Kergorlay, M. de, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>his children, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Khiva, Khan of, <a href="#page_75">75</a></li> + +<li>Kimberley, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_192">192</a></li> + +<li>King, Rufus, <a href="#page_179">179</a></li> + +<li>Kleeberg, Mme., <a href="#page_270">270</a></li> + +<li>Knollys, Miss, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>, <a href="#page_320">320</a>, <a href="#page_363">363</a></li> + +<li>Knowles, <a href="#page_246">246</a></li> + +<li>Knowles, James, <a href="#page_366">366</a></li> + +<li>Knutsford, Lord, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li> + +<li>Kotchoubey, Princess, <a href="#page_49">49-51</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_82">82</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a></li> + +<li>Kufstein, Count, <a href="#page_269">269</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>L</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Lacour, Challemel, Ministre des Affaires Étrangères, appoints M. Waddington Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow, <a href="#page_5">5</a></li> + +<li>Lagrené, M., <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a></li> + +<li>La Iglesia, M. de Casa, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>appointed Ambassador, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Langhe, Mlle. de, <a href="#page_285">285</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>helps with the children's comedy, <a href="#page_315">315</a> <em>et seq.</em></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Lasteyrie, <a href="#page_347">347</a></li> + +<li>Lataings, <a href="#page_338">338</a></li> + +<li>Lathom, Lord, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>on the Jubilee ceremonies, <a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Lawrence, Mrs., <a href="#page_148">148</a></li> + +<li>Lawrence, Anna, <a href="#page_317">317</a></li> + +<li>Layard, Lady, <a href="#page_388">388</a></li> + +<li>Lecky, Mr., <a href="#page_229">229</a></li> + +<li>Lecomte, M., <a href="#page_298">298</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a></li> + +<li>Leeds, Duke and Duchess of, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li> + +<li>Leeven, Baron, <a href="#page_118">118</a></li> + +<li>Leigh, Tom, <a href="#page_269">269</a></li> + +<li>Leighton, Sir Frederick, <a href="#page_310">310</a></li> + +<li>Lennox, Lord Algy, <a href="#page_388">388</a></li> + +<li>Leroy, Mr., <a href="#page_7">7</a></li> + +<li>Le Valloit, Mdme., <a href="#page_272">272</a></li> + +<li>Levisohn, Mlle., organizes a "toy symphony," <a href="#page_351">351</a> <em>et seq.</em></li> + +<li>Lhermite, M., <a href="#page_8">8</a></li> + +<li>Lincoln, Mr., <a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a>, <a href="#page_380">380</a></li> + +<li>Lind, Letty, <a href="#page_271">271</a></li> + +<li>Linden, Countess, <a href="#page_85">85</a></li> + +<li>Lionel, Lord, <a href="#page_232">232</a></li> + +<li>Llangattock, Lord, <a href="#page_393">393</a></li> + +<li>Lloyd, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li> + +<li>Lloyd, Lady Mary, <a href="#page_349">349</a></li> + +<li>Lomatch, M., <a href="#page_126">126</a></li> + +<li>London, Lord Mayor and Mayoress of, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_367">367</a></li> + +<li>Londonderry, Lady, <a href="#page_303">303</a>, <a href="#page_315">315</a></li> + +<li>Lonsdale, Lady, <a href="#page_184">184</a></li> + +<li>Lorne, Lord, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a>, <a href="#page_366">366</a></li> + +<li>Louis Philippe, <a href="#page_171">171</a></li> + +<li>Louise, Princess, <a href="#page_200">200</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>announcement of her engagement, <a href="#page_301">301</a>;</li> + <li>marriage, <a href="#page_305">305</a>; at Kensington, <a href="#page_379">379</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Lowell, James Russell, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>death of his wife, <a href="#page_200">200</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Lowell, Mrs., <a href="#page_180">180</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>death of, <a href="#page_200">200</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Lyons, Lord, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_183">183</a></li> + +<li>Lytton, Lord, <a href="#page_183">183</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>M</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Mackay, Mr. and Mrs., <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a></li> + +<li>MacMahon, Maréchal, <a href="#page_6">6</a>, <a href="#page_7">7</a></li> + +<li>Magdalen, Master of, <a href="#page_184">184</a></li> + +<li>Malagache Embassy, <a href="#page_21">21</a></li> + +<li>Manners, Lord and Lady John, <a href="#page_218">218</a></li> + +<li>Mansouroff, Madame, <a href="#page_43">43</a></li> + +<li>Margaretta, Princess, <a href="#page_311">311</a></li> + +<li>Margherita, Queen, <a href="#page_399">399</a></li> + +<li>Marochetti, Italian Minister, <a href="#page_153">153</a></li> + +<li>Mary of Teck, Princess, <a href="#page_244">244</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>described, <a href="#page_275">275</a>;</li> + <li>at White Lodge, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_362">362</a>;</li> + <li>opens the French bazaar, <a href="#page_373">373</a>;</li> + <li>tea at Mme. Waddington's, <a href="#page_377">377</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_409" title="pg 409"> </a></li> + +<li>Mary, Queen, "Bloody Mary," letter to Cardinal Pole, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li> + +<li>Mary, Queen of Scots, portraits of, <a href="#page_288">288</a></li> + +<li>Massanet, <a href="#page_295">295</a></li> + +<li>Mathias, M., <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a></li> + +<li>Maud, Princess, <a href="#page_320">320</a>, <a href="#page_330">330</a></li> + +<li>Mavrocordato, <a href="#page_25">25</a></li> + +<li>May, Princess, <a href="#page_244">244</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>engagement to the Duke of Clarence, <a href="#page_333">333</a>;</li> + <li>grief for, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>;</li> + <li>rumour of marriage to Prince George, <a href="#page_362">362</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a>;</li> + <li>at the French bazaar, <a href="#page_374">374</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Mazo, del, Spanish Ambassador, <a href="#page_368">368</a></li> + +<li>Mead, Lady J., <a href="#page_317">317</a></li> + +<li>Mecklenburg, Duke and Duchess Paul of, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_272">272</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a></li> + +<li>Mensdorff, <a href="#page_377">377</a></li> + +<li>Merindol, <a href="#page_348">348</a></li> + +<li>Methuen, Lord, <a href="#page_176">176</a></li> + +<li>Michel, Grand Duchess, receives Mme. Waddington, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>described, <a href="#page_94">94</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Michel, Grand Duke, <a href="#page_87">87</a></li> + +<li>Mitford, Mrs., <a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a></li> + +<li>Mohrenheim, M. de, Russian Ambassador, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at Windsor Castle, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Mohrenheim, Madame de, <a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a></li> + +<li>Molesworth, Lady, <a href="#page_217">217</a></li> + +<li>Moltke, <a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a></li> + +<li>Monaco, Princess of, <a href="#page_326">326</a></li> + +<li>Monk, Mr. Charles, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a></li> + +<li>Monk, Miss Julia, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li> + +<li>Montebello, <a href="#page_372">372</a></li> + +<li>Montpensier, Duc de, <a href="#page_6">6</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_46">46</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a></li> + +<li>Montrose, Duchess of, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li> + +<li>Mostyn, Mrs., <a href="#page_378">378</a></li> + +<li>Moulin, M., <a href="#page_125">125</a></li> + +<li>Münster, German Ambassador, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li> + +<li>Murray, Mr., <a href="#page_315">315</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>N</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Naidillac, Marquis de, <a href="#page_326">326</a></li> + +<li>Nannie, <a href="#page_352">352</a></li> + +<li>Neruda, Mdme., <a href="#page_272">272</a></li> + +<li>Newcastle, Duke and Duchess of, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li> + +<li>Newman, <a href="#page_308">308</a></li> + +<li>Nigra, Italian Ambassador, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_68">68</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_82">82</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>describes Russian society, <a href="#page_98">98</a>;</li> + <li>in London, <a href="#page_179">179</a>;</li> + <li>at Windsor Castle, <a href="#page_192">192</a>;</li> + <li>departure for Vienna, <a href="#page_223">223</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Noccomore, Commandant, <a href="#page_261">261</a></li> + +<li>Nordica, <a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_284">284</a></li> + +<li>Northbrook, Lord, <a href="#page_183">183</a></li> + +<li>Northcote, Lady, <a href="#page_306">306</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li> + +<li>Northcote, Sir Stafford, <a href="#page_189">189</a></li> + +<li>Northumberland, Lord, <a href="#page_360">360</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>O</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Oborlenski, Princess, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a></li> + +<li>Oldenburg, Duchess of, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a></li> + +<li>Oppenheim, Mrs., <a href="#page_284">284</a></li> + +<li>Orléans Princes, <a href="#page_274">274</a></li> + +<li>Orloff, Prince, <a href="#page_9">9</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a></li> + +<li>d'Orval, M., <a href="#page_108">108</a></li> + +<li>Ourousoff, Prince, <a href="#page_105">105</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>P</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>P——, Lady, <a href="#page_213">213</a></li> + +<li>P——, Lizzie, <a href="#page_243">243</a></li> + +<li>Pahlen, Count, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_54">54</a></li> + +<li>Pahlen, Countess, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a></li> + +<li>Palmerston, Lord, <a href="#page_171">171</a></li> + +<li>Paris, Comte de, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_274">274</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a></li> + +<li>Pasquier, Duc d'Audifret, <a href="#page_274">274</a></li> + +<li>Patenôtre, M., <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>characterises the Swedes, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>;</li> + <li>bids farewell to the Waddingtons, <a href="#page_143">143</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Paul, Mr., aide-de-camp, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a></li> + +<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_410" title="pg 410"> </a></li> + +<li>Paulucci, Marquis, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a></li> + +<li>Pawel-Rammingen, Baron, <a href="#page_204">204</a></li> + +<li>Peel, Sir Robert, his daughter, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li> + +<li>Pepys, Lady Mary, <a href="#page_285">285</a></li> + +<li>Percy, Countess, <a href="#page_360">360</a></li> + +<li>Perier, Mdme. Casimir, <a href="#page_277">277</a></li> + +<li>Perponcher, Countess, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_388">388</a></li> + +<li>Persia, Grand Vizier of, <a href="#page_303">303</a></li> + +<li>Persia, Shah of, at the Court Ball, <a href="#page_301">301</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>arrival by water, <a href="#page_301">301</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a>;</li> + <li>luncheon party at Hatfield in his honour, <a href="#page_302">302-304</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Peter the Great, portraits of, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_119">119</a></li> + +<li>Petiteville, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li> + +<li>Petre, Mr. Henry, <a href="#page_313">313</a></li> + +<li>Pfeffer, <a href="#page_351">351</a></li> + +<li>Phelps, Edward J., American Ambassador, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li> + +<li>Phelps, Marguerite, <a href="#page_317">317</a></li> + +<li>Phelps, Mrs., <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a></li> + +<li>Phillipe, the coiffeur, <a href="#page_12">12</a></li> + +<li>Picolellis, <a href="#page_272">272</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a></li> + +<li>Pierson, <a href="#page_7">7</a></li> + +<li>Pina, M. de, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_163">163</a></li> + +<li>Pittié, Général, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_24">24</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a></li> + +<li>Plunkett, Mr., <a href="#page_4">4</a></li> + +<li>Ponsonby, Sir Henry, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a></li> + +<li>Pontavice, <a href="#page_320">320</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a></li> + +<li>Pontécoulant, Comte de, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_20">20</a> <em>et passim</em>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>death of his brother, <a href="#page_94">94</a>;</li> + <li>his death, <a href="#page_208">208</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Portland, Duke of, <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a></li> + +<li>Pourtalès, Comte Jacques de, <a href="#page_233">233</a></li> + +<li>Poutel, Mdme. du, <a href="#page_373">373</a></li> + +<li>Powell, Mr. Price W., <a href="#page_172">172</a></li> + +<li>Praed, Mr., <a href="#page_218">218</a></li> + +<li>Prince Imperial of Germany, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a></li> + +<li>Probyn, Sir Digby, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_363">363</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Q</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Quirim, Miss, <a href="#page_333">333</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>R</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Radziwill, <a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a></li> + +<li>Radziwill, Princess, <a href="#page_22">22</a></li> + +<li>Rambaut, M., <a href="#page_395">395</a></li> + +<li>Randolph Churchill, Lady, <a href="#page_377">377</a></li> + +<li>Regnier, Arch Duke, of Austria, <a href="#page_259">259</a></li> + +<li>Reischach, Baron, <a href="#page_388">388</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a></li> + +<li>Renan, <a href="#page_309">309</a></li> + +<li>Reszke, Jean de, <a href="#page_315">315</a></li> + +<li>Ribot, <a href="#page_372">372</a></li> + +<li>Richard, Mdme., <a href="#page_320">320</a></li> + +<li>Richelieu, Duchesse de, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li> + +<li>Richter, General, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a></li> + +<li>Rizzio, murder of, <a href="#page_288">288</a></li> + +<li>Roffy, Mrs., <a href="#page_316">316</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_321">321</a></li> + +<li>Rogers, aide-de-camp, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a></li> + +<li>Rogers, Canon, <a href="#page_297">297</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>takes Mme. Waddington through Petticoat Lane, <a href="#page_298">298</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>;</li> + <li>his good work, <a href="#page_299">299</a>, <a href="#page_300">300</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Ronalds, Mrs., <a href="#page_272">272</a></li> + +<li>Rosebery, Lady, <a href="#page_204">204</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>gives a ball, <a href="#page_255">255</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Rosebery, Lord, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a></li> + +<li>Rothschild, Ferdinand, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li> + +<li>Rothschild, Lord, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li> + +<li>Roustan, naval attaché, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li> + +<li>Rudolph, Prince, <a href="#page_247">247</a> +</li> +<li>Roxburghe, Duchess of, <a href="#page_257">257</a>, <a href="#page_392">392</a>, <a href="#page_398">398</a></li> + +<li>Russia, Empress of, <a href="#page_45">45</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>coronation of, <a href="#page_65">65-67</a>;</li> + <li>at the Coronation breakfast, <a href="#page_67">67-70</a>;</li> + <li>versatility as a linguist, <a href="#page_73">73</a>;</li> + <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>;</li> + <li>at the great ball, <a href="#page_78">78</a>;</li> + <li>gives a tea between the acts at the Opera, <a href="#page_80">80</a>;</li> + <li>at the gala dinner, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a>;</li> + <li>drives without escort, <a href="#page_98">98</a>;</li> + <li>at the revue, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Rustem Pacha, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_366">366</a></li> + +<li>Rutland, Duchess of, <a href="#page_304">304</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>S</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_411" title="pg 411"> </a></li> + +<li>Sagan, Duke of, <a href="#page_159">159</a></li> + +<li>St. Albans, Duchess of, <a href="#page_377">377</a></li> + +<li>St. Clair, Lady Harriet, <a href="#page_179">179</a></li> + +<li>St. Genys, <a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_306">306</a>, <a href="#page_315">315</a>, <a href="#page_316">316</a></li> + +<li>St. Vallier, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a></li> + +<li>Salisbury, Lady, gives reception, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>entertains the Waddingtons at Hatfield, <a href="#page_215">215</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>;</li> + <li>luncheon party in honour of the Shah, <a href="#page_302">302</a>-<a href="#page_304">304</a>;</li> + <li>on the ice, <a href="#page_306">306</a>, <a href="#page_307">307</a>;</li> + <li>gives luncheon for the German Emperor, <a href="#page_329">329</a>-<a href="#page_332">332</a>;</li> + <li>desire for rest, <a href="#page_356">356</a>;</li> + <li>crosses the channel, <a href="#page_362">362</a>;</li> + <li>makes a speech, <a href="#page_376">376</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Salisbury, Lord, <a href="#page_189">189</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>speaks in the House of Lords, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a>;</li> + <li>at opening of Parliament, <a href="#page_237">237</a>;</li> + <li>reception, <a href="#page_243">243</a>;</li> + <li>entertains the Shah, <a href="#page_303">303</a>;</li> + <li>and the German Emperor, <a href="#page_329">329-331</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Sancy, M. de, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a></li> + +<li>Sanderson, Miss, <a href="#page_295">295</a></li> + +<li>Sanderson, Mr. Thomas, <a href="#page_337">337</a></li> + +<li>Sandford, Mr., <a href="#page_143">143</a></li> + +<li>Sarasate, <a href="#page_272">272</a></li> + +<li>Saxe-Weimar, Prince Herman, <a href="#page_254">254</a></li> + +<li>Say, Léon, <a href="#page_3">3</a></li> + +<li>Scalchi, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li> + +<li>Scarlett, Miss, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a></li> + +<li>Schimmelpenninck, M., <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a></li> + +<li>Schubert, <a href="#page_345">345</a></li> + +<li>Schuster, Frank, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li> + +<li>Schuyler, <a href="#page_308">308</a></li> + +<li>Schweinitz, General, <a href="#page_39">39</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at the Coronation Breakfast, <a href="#page_70">70</a>;</li> + <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_73">73</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Schweinitz, Madame, <a href="#page_81">81</a></li> + +<li>Seckendorff, Count, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a>, <a href="#page_313">313</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a></li> + +<li>Sefton, Lord, <a href="#page_231">231</a></li> + +<li>Ségur, Comte Paul de, <a href="#page_274">274</a></li> + +<li>Serge, Grand Duchess, <a href="#page_256">256</a></li> + +<li>Sermet, M., <a href="#page_125">125</a></li> + +<li>Sesmaisons, Colonel Comte de, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a> <em>et passim</em></li> + +<li>Seymour, Admiral, <a href="#page_89">89</a></li> + +<li>Seymour, Lord William, <a href="#page_382">382</a></li> + +<li>Seymour, Sir Francis, <a href="#page_202">202</a></li> + +<li>Sheridan, May, <a href="#page_247">247</a></li> + +<li>Smith, W. H., holds a political reception, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a></li> + +<li>Solvyns, Baron, <a href="#page_336">336</a>, <a href="#page_381">381</a></li> + +<li>Somaglia, Countess, <a href="#page_361">361</a></li> + +<li>Southampton, Lady, <a href="#page_370">370</a></li> + +<li>Soveral, Portuguese Minister, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a></li> + +<li>Spain, King of, death of, <a href="#page_220">220</a></li> + +<li>Spencer, Countess, <a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_369">369</a></li> + +<li>Staal, M. de, Russian Ambassador, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at Hatfield,<a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Staal, Madame de, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>described, <a href="#page_243">243</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Staal, Thekla, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a></li> + +<li>Stainer, Dr., <a href="#page_348">348</a></li> + +<li>Stanhope, Lady, <a href="#page_18">18</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>entertains the Waddingtons and others, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Stanhope, Lord, <a href="#page_219">219</a></li> + +<li>Stanhope, Mr. and Mrs. Edward, <a href="#page_218">218</a></li> + +<li>Stanhope, Philip, <a href="#page_361">361</a></li> + +<li>Stanley, Dowager Lady, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a></li> + +<li>Stanleys, <a href="#page_355">355</a></li> + +<li>Struve, M. and Mdme. de, <a href="#page_120">120</a></li> + +<li>Stewart, Lady Helen, <a href="#page_317">317</a></li> + +<li>Stuart, Miss, <a href="#page_348">348</a></li> + +<li>Sudely, Lord, <a href="#page_297">297</a></li> + +<li>Suffield, Lady, <a href="#page_363">363</a></li> + +<li>Suffield, Lord, <a href="#page_363">363</a></li> + +<li>Sullivan, Sir Arthur, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_272">272</a></li> + +<li>Sutherland, Duchess of, <a href="#page_236">236</a></li> + +<li>Sweden, Crown Prince of, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a></li> + +<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_412" title="pg 412"> </a></li> + +<li>Sweden, King of, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a></li> + +<li>Sweden, Prince Royal of, <a href="#page_145">145</a></li> + +<li>Sydney, Lord, <a href="#page_359">359</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>T</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Tadema, Alma, <a href="#page_379">379</a></li> + +<li>Talleyrand, Bessie, <a href="#page_391">391</a></li> + +<li>Tavistock, Lord, <a href="#page_281">281</a></li> + +<li>Teck, Duke of, <a href="#page_236">236</a></li> + +<li>Teesdale, <a href="#page_369">369</a></li> + +<li>Tennyson, <a href="#page_183">183</a></li> + +<li>Thénard, <a href="#page_284">284</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>assists producing the children's comedy, <a href="#page_315">315</a> <em>et seq.</em></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Thomson, Mr., <a href="#page_339">339</a></li> + +<li>Thornton, Lady, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a>;</li> + <li>aboard the Lancaster, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Thornton, Mary, <a href="#page_126">126</a></li> + +<li>Thornton, Sir Edward, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a></li> + +<li>Thornycroft, <a href="#page_278">278</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a></li> + +<li>Toll, Count and Countess, <a href="#page_153">153</a></li> + +<li>Tornielli, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_361">361</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a></li> + +<li>Tosti, <a href="#page_272">272</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a>, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li> + +<li>Trebelli, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li> + +<li>Trémouille, Charlotte de la, <a href="#page_230">230</a></li> + +<li>Trevelyans, <a href="#page_355">355</a></li> + +<li>Troubetzkoi, Princess Lise, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a></li> + +<li>Tweeddale, Lady, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li> + +<li>Tweedmouth, Lord, <a href="#page_354">354</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>V</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Val Prinsep, <a href="#page_388">388</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a></li> + +<li>Vannutelli, Mgr., <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>visits the Lancaster, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Victoria, Princess, <a href="#page_320">320</a>, <a href="#page_397">397</a></li> + +<li>Victoria, Queen, receives Mme. Waddington, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>described, <a href="#page_177">177</a>;</li> + <li>at Windsor Castle, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>;</li> + <li>Drawing-room, <a href="#page_206">206</a>;</li> + <li>holds long Drawing-room, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a>;</li> + <li>opens Parliament, <a href="#page_235">235-238</a>;</li> + <li>at the Jubilee ceremonies in Westminster Abbey, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>;</li> + <li>in the procession after the service, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>;</li> + <li>receives at the Palace, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>;</li> + <li>at the children's fête in Hyde Park, <a href="#page_254">254</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a>;</li> + <li>reviews the Volunteers, <a href="#page_257">257</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a>;</li> + <li>at the Naval Review, <a href="#page_260">260-264</a>;</li> + <li>with the Empress Frederick at Windsor, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a>;</li> + <li>bids farewell to the Waddingtons, <a href="#page_368">368</a>, <a href="#page_370">370-372</a>;</li> + <li>receives Mme. Waddington at Osborne, <a href="#page_397">397-401</a>;</li> + <li>death, <a href="#page_401">401</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Villiers, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li> + +<li>Villestreux, Mdme. de la, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a></li> + +<li>Vinci, Comte, <a href="#page_350">350</a></li> + +<li>Vivian, Lady, <a href="#page_210">210</a></li> + +<li>Vivian, Lord, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>W</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Waddington, Francis, <a href="#page_10">10</a> <em>et passim</em>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>as an actor, <a href="#page_285">285</a>, <a href="#page_315">315</a> <em>et seq</em>;</li> + <li>placed in a French school, <a href="#page_332">332</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Waddington, Mme., meets Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, <a href="#page_3">3</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>M. Waddington appointed Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow, to represent France at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_4">4-6</a>;</li> + <li>preparations for Moscow, <a href="#page_6">6-12</a>;</li> + <li>arrives at Berlin, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_14">14</a>;</li> + <li>impression of Berlin, <a href="#page_15">15</a>;</li> + <li>visits the de Bunsens, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>;</li> + <li>goes to the races, <a href="#page_18">18</a>;</li> + <li>departure from Berlin, <a href="#page_22">22</a>;</li> + <li>dines at Alexandrownow with a Hessian Prince, <a href="#page_23">23</a>;</li> + <li>reaches Warsaw, <a href="#page_24">24</a>;</li> + <li>describes the city, <a href="#page_24">24</a>;</li> + <li>visits a chateau, <a href="#page_25">25</a>;</li> + <li>the trip from Warsaw to Moscow, <a href="#page_26">26-31</a>;</li> + <li>arrival at Moscow, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_32">32</a>;</li> + <li>description of the Maison Klein, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_33">33</a>;</li> + + <li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_413" title="pg 413"> </a></li> + <li>experiences with a Court train, <a href="#page_36">36</a>;</li> + <li>drives through Moscow, <a href="#page_37">37-39</a>;</li> + <li>the Emperor's entrance into the Kremlin, <a href="#page_42">42-46</a>;</li> + <li>received by the Empress, <a href="#page_47">47-52</a>;</li> + <li>visits Princess Obolenski, <a href="#page_52">52</a>;</li> + <li>goes over the palaces at the Kremlin, <a href="#page_54">54</a>;</li> + <li>famous paintings and jewels in the Church of the Assomption, <a href="#page_54">54</a>;</li> + <li>visits Princess Radziwill and Countess Pahlen, <a href="#page_55">55</a>;</li> + <li>at the reception of the Arch Duke and Duchess Albert of Austria, <a href="#page_56">56-58</a>;</li> + <li>attends reception at M. de Giers', <a href="#page_58">58</a>;</li> + <li>audience with Grand Duchess Michel, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>;</li> + <li>with the Grand Duchess Constantine, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>;</li> + <li>with the Duchesse d'Oldenburg, <a href="#page_61">61</a>;</li> + <li>and the Grand Duchess Wladmir, <a href="#page_61">61</a>;</li> + <li>dines with the permanent French Embassy, <a href="#page_62">62</a>;</li> + <li>the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_63">63-67</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_71">71</a>;</li> + <li>the Coronation breakfast, <a href="#page_67">67-70</a>;</li> + <li>at the presentation of felicitations to the Emperor and Empress, <a href="#page_71">71-73</a>;</li> + <li> presented to the Queen of Greece, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_72">72</a>;</li> + <li>appearance of the Embassies, <a href="#page_72">72</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a>;</li> + <li>goes to the Court ball, <a href="#page_73">73-75</a>;</li> + <li>dances with the Emperor and Grand Duke Wladimir, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>;</li> + <li>the Fête Populaire, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_82">82</a>;</li> + <li>gives a Russian dinner, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a>;</li> + <li>the great ball at the Palace, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a>;</li> + <li>goes shopping, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a>;</li> + <li>attends the Opera, <a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>;</li> + <li>tea with the Empress, <a href="#page_80">80</a>;</li> + <li>gives a diplomatic dinner, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>;</li> + <li>photographing the whole establishment, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_84">84</a>;</li> + <li>at the Palace ball, <a href="#page_85">85-90</a>;</li> + <li>sees the Trésor, <a href="#page_91">91</a>;</li> + <li>the gala dinner, <a href="#page_92">92-94</a>;</li> + <li>the institution of the "Enfants Trouvés," <a href="#page_95">95</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>;</li> + <li>gives a reception, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>;</li> + <li>the revue at the Tribune Imperiale, <a href="#page_102">102-104</a>;</li> + <li>sightseeing in Moscow, <a href="#page_106">106</a>;</li> + <li>preparations for leaving Moscow, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>;</li> + <li>takes a moonlight drive to the Kremlin, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>;</li> + <li>departure from Moscow, <a href="#page_111">111</a>;</li> + <li>the journey to Petersburg, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>;</li> + <li>description of Petersburg, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>;</li> + <li>the Hermitage, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>;</li> + <li>"La Pointe," <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>;</li> + <li>the pictures at the Hermitage, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>;</li> + <li>makes an excursion to Peterhof, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>;</li> + <li>dinner at the Hunts', <a href="#page_120">120</a>;</li> + <li>entertained by Admiral Baldwin on board the flagship Lancaster, <a href="#page_120">120-123</a>;</li> + <li>visits the Thorntons, <a href="#page_124">124</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>;</li> + <li>shopping in Petersburg, <a href="#page_126">126</a>;</li> + <li>the voyage by steamer to Stockholm, <a href="#page_126">126-134</a>;</li> + <li>description of Helsingfors, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a>;</li> + <li>Abo, the old capital of Finland, <a href="#page_132">132</a>;</li> + <li>the approach to Stockholm, <a href="#page_134">134</a>;</li> + <li>drives through Stockholm, <a href="#page_135">135-139</a>;</li> + <li>to Drottningholm, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a>;</li> + <li>shopping in Stockholm, <a href="#page_141">141</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>;</li> + <li>journeys from Stockholm to Copenhagen, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>;</li> + <li>drives through Copenhagen, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>;</li> + <li>visits the Historical Museum, <a href="#page_146">146</a>;</li> + <li>a pleasant expedition to Tivoli, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>;</li> + <li>the Thorwaldsen Gallery, <a href="#page_149">149</a>;</li> + <li>a Swedish wedding at the Frauen Kirche, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>;</li> + <li>the excessive heat, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a>;</li> + <li>sees the treasures at Rosenburg, <a href="#page_152">152</a>;</li> + + <li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_414" title="pg 414"> </a></li> + <li>M. de Kergorlay's dinner, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>;</li> + <li>departure from Copenhagen, <a href="#page_157">157</a>;</li> + <li>from Korsoe to Kiel, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a>;</li> + <li>arrives at Hamburg, <a href="#page_158">158</a>;</li> + <li>view of Hamburg from the lake, <a href="#page_161">161</a>;</li> + <li>a moonlight drive, <a href="#page_163">163</a>;</li> + <li>leaves Hamburg, <a href="#page_163">163</a>;</li> + <li>arrives at Cologne, <a href="#page_163">163</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a>;</li> + <li>returns to Paris, <a href="#page_165">165</a>; stays at Boulogne-sur-Mur, <a href="#page_167">167</a>;</li> + <li>crosses to England, <a href="#page_167">167</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a>;</li> + <li>inspects her future home in London, <a href="#page_168">168</a>, <a href="#page_169">169</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a>;</li> + <li>visits the Monks, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a>;</li> + <li>getting settled in London, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a>;</li> + <li>presented to the Queen, <a href="#page_175">175-177</a>;</li> + <li>Windsor Castle, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a>;</li> + <li>has an audience of the Prince and Princess of Wales, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a>;</li> + <li>with the Duchess of Cambridge, <a href="#page_180">180</a>;</li> + <li>domestic arrangements, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a>;</li> + <li>visits the Dowager Lady Stanley, <a href="#page_181">181</a>;</li> + <li>talks with Mr. Gladstone, <a href="#page_181">181</a> <a href="#page_182">182</a>;</li> + <li>politics, <a href="#page_183">183</a>;</li> + <li>entertained by the Prince and Princess of Wales at Sandringham, <a href="#page_184">184-186;</a></li> + <li>attends a hunt and hunt ball, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_188">188</a>;</li> + <li>at Mr. Gladstone's reception, <a href="#page_188">188</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>;</li> + <li>commanded to dine and sleep at Windsor, <a href="#page_191">191-194</a>;</li> + <li>first Drawing-room, <a href="#page_194">194-197</a>;</li> + <li>goes to the Derby, <a href="#page_197">197</a>;</li> + <li>to the meet of the Coaching Club and a polo game, <a href="#page_197">197</a>, <a href="#page_198">198</a>;</li> + <li>reception at Devonshire House, <a href="#page_199">199</a>;</li> + <li>dinners and routs, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_200">200</a>;</li> + <li>Lady Tweeddale's dinner, <a href="#page_201">201</a>;</li> + <li>at the ball of the Artillery Corps, <a href="#page_202">202</a>;</li> + <li>Drawing-room, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>;</li> + <li>sees the Queen, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>;</li> + <li>Westminster Abbey, <a href="#page_205">205</a>;</li> + <li>visits Blenheim, <a href="#page_209">209</a>;</li> + <li>conference "sur Racine," <a href="#page_212">212</a>;</li> + <li>long Drawing-room, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a>;</li> + <li>visits Lady Salisbury at Hatfield <a href="#page_215">215</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>;</li> + <li>lunches with Prince and Princess of Wales, <a href="#page_216">216</a>;</li> + <li>at Lord Aberdeen's hay-making party, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a>;</li> + <li>Court concert, <a href="#page_217">217</a>;</li> + <li>spends Sunday at the Stanhopes, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>;</li> + <li>London fog, <a href="#page_221">221</a>;</li> + <li>Christmas shopping, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a>;</li> + <li>farewell dinner to Nigra, <a href="#page_223">223</a>;</li> + <li>celebrates Christmas, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>;</li> + <li>impressions of a Roman Christmas, <a href="#page_227">227</a>;</li> + <li>visits at Knowsley, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_228">228-232</a>;</li> + <li>portraits and literary treasures at Knowsley, <a href="#page_229">229</a>, <a href="#page_230">230</a>;</li> + <li>visits the Falbes at Luton, <a href="#page_232">232-234</a>;</li> + <li>St. Paul's, <a href="#page_234">234</a>;</li> + <li>gives dinners, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>;</li> + <li>attends the opening of Parliament, <a href="#page_235">235-238</a>;</li> + <li>at Windsor Castle again, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>;</li> + <li>drives to the Mausoleum, <a href="#page_239">239</a>;</li> + <li>spends Sunday at the Karolyis at Clieveden, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>;</li> + <li>defeat of the French troops at Tonkin, <a href="#page_241">241</a>;</li> + <li>interesting old manuscripts at Roll's Court, <a href="#page_242">242</a>;</li> + <li>Lady Ashburton's house, <a href="#page_242">242</a>;</li> + <li>at the Opera, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>;</li> + <li>visits the Tecks, <a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_244">244</a>;</li> + <li>presented to the Queen of the Sandwich Islands, <a href="#page_245">245-247</a>;</li> + <li>preparations for the Jubilee, <a href="#page_245">245</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_248">248</a>;</li> + <li>arranges to see the cortége immediately after the service in Westminster Abbey, <a href="#page_245">245-248</a>;</li> + <li>the Jubilee Te Deum, <a href="#page_248">248-250</a>;</li> + <li>the procession after the service, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>;</li> + <li>the reception at the Palace, <a href="#page_251">251-253</a>;</li> + <li>the children's fête in Hyde Park, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a>;</li> + <li>at the Rosebery's ball, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a>;</li> + <li>the Palace ball, <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_257">257</a>;</li> + <li>receives the Jubilee Medal, <a href="#page_257">257</a>;</li> + + <li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_415" title="pg 415"> </a></li> + <li>the Naval Review, <a href="#page_259">259-264</a>;</li> + <li>aboard the Iphigénie, <a href="#page_261">261-263</a>;</li> + <li>skating, <a href="#page_266">266</a>;</li> + <li>funeral service for the German Emperor, <a href="#page_267">267</a>;</li> + <li>at the Smiths' political reception, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>;</li> + <li>musicales, <a href="#page_270">270-273</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a>;</li> + <li>meets Princess Mary, <a href="#page_275">275</a>;</li> + <li>sightseeing, <a href="#page_276">276-278</a>;</li> + <li>christens a torpilleur, <a href="#page_278">278</a>;</li> + <li>races at Ascot, <a href="#page_279">279</a>;</li> + <li>visits the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, <a href="#page_280">280-282</a>;</li> + <li>death of the Emperor Frederick, <a href="#page_282">282</a>;</li> + <li>dines with the Lord Mayor, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_284">284</a>;</li> + <li>production of a play by Berquin, <a href="#page_284">284-286</a>;</li> + <li>decides to go to Scotland, <a href="#page_286">286</a>;</li> + <li>the journey to Edinburgh, <a href="#page_287">287</a>;</li> + <li>sightseeing in Edinburgh, <a href="#page_287">287</a>, <a href="#page_288">288</a>;</li> + <li>arrives at Oban, <a href="#page_288">288</a>;</li> + <li>Scottish tartans, <a href="#page_289">289</a>;</li> + <li>by sea to Arishaig, <a href="#page_290">290</a>, <a href="#page_291">291</a>;</li> + <li>stays at Inveraylort, <a href="#page_291">291-295</a>;</li> + <li>returns to London, <a href="#page_296">296</a>;</li> + <li>goes through Petticoat Lane with Canon Rogers, <a href="#page_298">298</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>;</li> + <li>the People's Palace, <a href="#page_300">300</a>;</li> + <li>at the Court Ball, <a href="#page_300">300</a>, <a href="#page_301">301</a>;</li> + <li>the Shah's arrival by water, <a href="#page_301">301</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a>;</li> + <li>the luncheon party at Hatfield in the Shah's honour, <a href="#page_302">302-304</a>;</li> + <li>wedding of Princess Louise and the Duke of Fife, <a href="#page_305">305</a>;</li> + <li>skates at Hatfield, <a href="#page_306">306</a>, <a href="#page_307">307</a>;</li> + <li>and at Wimbledon, <a href="#page_307">307</a>;</li> + <li>attends a horse sale, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_309">309</a>;</li> + <li>at Windsor, <a href="#page_310">310-313</a>;</li> + <li>sees "Charlie's Aunt," <a href="#page_313">313</a>;</li> + <li>luncheon with the Empress Frederick, <a href="#page_314">314</a>;</li> + <li>with Lady Northcote at the Opera, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_315">315</a>;</li> + <li>the children's comedy, <a href="#page_315">315</a> <em>et seq.</em>;</li> + <li>formal entry of the German Emperor William II. into London, <a href="#page_323">323</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>;</li> + <li>reception of the Emperor and Empress, <a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a>;</li> + <li>Garden Party at Marlborough House, <a href="#page_326">326</a>;</li> + <li>goes to the luncheon at Hatfield for the German Emperor, <a href="#page_328">328-332</a>;</li> + <li>places son in a French school, <a href="#page_332">332</a>;</li> + <li>sickness and death of Prince Eddie, <a href="#page_333">333</a> <em>et seq.</em>;</li> + <li>visits the British Museum, <a href="#page_339">339</a>;</li> + <li>visits the Tecks, <a href="#page_340">340-342</a>;</li> + <li>visits "Venice," <a href="#page_343">343</a>;</li> + <li>excursion to Herkomer's studio, <a href="#page_344">344-346</a>;</li> + <li>opens the bazaar, <a href="#page_346">346</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a>;</li> + <li>gives a dinner of organists, <a href="#page_348">348</a>;</li> + <li>arranges a "toy symphony," <a href="#page_350">350-352</a>;</li> + <li>at the Italian Embassy, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a>;</li> + <li>the Salvation Army, <a href="#page_353">353</a>;</li> + <li>English women in politics, <a href="#page_355">355</a>;</li> + <li>dines with the Gladstones to meet the Archbishop of Canterbury, <a href="#page_355">355</a>, <a href="#page_356">356</a>;</li> + <li>band of the "Garde Républicaine," <a href="#page_357">357</a>;</li> + <li>visits the Dufferins at Walmer Castle, <a href="#page_358">358-360</a>;</li> + <li>last outings, <a href="#page_361">361</a>;</li> + <li>leaves for the Tyrol, <a href="#page_361">361</a>;</li> + <li>returns to England, <a href="#page_362">362</a>;</li> + <li>says good-bye to Princess Mary and Princess May, <a href="#page_362">362</a>;</li> + <li>hears Mr. Gladstone's speech on Ireland, <a href="#page_363">363</a>;</li> + <li>farewell visits, <a href="#page_363">363</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>;</li> + <li>farewell dinner for M. Waddington at the Mansion House, <a href="#page_364">364-367</a>;</li> + <li>last visit to Windsor, <a href="#page_368">368</a>, <a href="#page_369">369</a>;</li> + <li>last Drawing-room, <a href="#page_369">369</a>;</li> + <li>farewell audience from Queen Victoria, <a href="#page_370">370-372</a>;</li> + <li>at the French bazaar, <a href="#page_373">373</a>, <a href="#page_374">374</a>;</li> + <li>a musical afternoon at Mlle. Humlicher's, <a href="#page_374">374</a>, <a href="#page_375">375</a>;</li> + <li>presented with a jewel, <a href="#page_375">375</a>, <a href="#page_376">376</a>;</li> + <li>entertains Princess Mary and Princess May, <a href="#page_377">377</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a>;</li> + + <li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_416" title="pg 416"> </a></li> + <li>visits Princess Louise and Alma Tadema, <a href="#page_379">379</a>;</li> + <li>Easter Service in Westminster Abbey, <a href="#page_379">379</a>, <a href="#page_380">380</a>;</li> + <li>in the Temple Church, Turkish Embassy, <a href="#page_380">380</a>;</li> + <li>departure from London, <a href="#page_381">381-383</a>;</li> + <li>arrival in Paris, <a href="#page_383">383</a>;</li> + <li>hears the Wagner operas at Bayreuth, <a href="#page_384">384</a>, <a href="#page_385">385</a>;</li> + <li>visits Mary de Bunsen, <a href="#page_386">386</a>;</li> + <li>goes to the opera in Wiesbaden, <a href="#page_386">386</a>, <a href="#page_387">387</a>;</li> + <li>received by the Empress Frederick at Cronberg, <a href="#page_387">387-390</a>;</li> + <li>at Cowes, <a href="#page_391">391</a> <em>et seq.</em>;</li> + <li>meets the Prince and Princess of Wales at Cowes, <a href="#page_393">393-395</a>;</li> + <li>visits the Empress Eugénie, <a href="#page_395">395</a>, <a href="#page_396">396</a>;</li> + <li>aboard the Nahma, <a href="#page_397">397</a>;</li> + <li>a long audience with the Queen at Osborne, <a href="#page_397">397-400</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Waddington, Richard, <a href="#page_7">7</a> <em>et passim</em></li> + +<li>Waddington, M. William, report of his appointment as Ambassador to Vienna, <a href="#page_4">4</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>appointed Ambassador Extraordinary at Moscow to represent France at + the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_4">4-6</a>;</li> + <li>personnel of the Mission, <a href="#page_7">7</a>;</li> + <li>has an audience from the Emperor of Germany, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>;</li> + <li>visits Bismarck, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>;</li> + <li>received by Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_36">36</a>;</li> + <li>at the reception of the Arch Duke and Duchess Albert of Austria, <a href="#page_56">56-58</a>;</li> + <li>at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_42">42</a> <em>et seq.</em>;</li> + <li>farewell audience with the Emperor, <a href="#page_99">99</a>;</li> + <li>studies the medals at the Museum in Petersburg, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a>;</li> + <li>his capacity for work, <a href="#page_122">122</a>;</li> + <li>visits the Ministre des Affaires Etrangères at Stockholm, <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>;</li> + <li>received by the King of Sweden, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>;</li> + <li>examines the medals in the Museum at Copenhagen, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>;</li> + <li>dines with Gladstone, <a href="#page_168">168</a>;</li> + <li>entertained by Lord Granville, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a>;</li> + <li>shoots with Charles Monk, <a href="#page_172">172-174</a>;</li> + <li>audience with the Prince and Princess of Wales, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a>;</li> + <li>at Windsor Castle, <a href="#page_191">191-193</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>;</li> + <li>goes to Paris, <a href="#page_198">198</a>;</li> + <li>meets old friends, <a href="#page_207">207</a>;</li> + <li>sees the Oxford and Cambridge boat race, <a href="#page_207">207</a>;</li> + <li>follows Sir Walter Raleigh's example, <a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a href="#page_208">208</a>;</li> + <li>goes to Paris, <a href="#page_208">208</a>;</li> + <li>talks with the Queen, <a href="#page_214">214</a>;</li> + <li>shoots at Knowsley, <a href="#page_229">229</a>;</li> + <li>talks with Lecky on Ireland, <a href="#page_229">229</a>;</li> + <li>dislike of dancing, <a href="#page_274">274</a>;</li> + <li>bids at a horse sale, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_309">309</a>;</li> + <li>at Windsor, <a href="#page_311">311</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a>;</li> + <li>dines at Mr. Murray's with Mr. Gladstone, <a href="#page_315">315</a>;</li> + <li>death of his mother, <em>n.</em>, <a href="#page_325">325</a>;</li> + <li>at the luncheon at Hatfield for the German Emperor, <a href="#page_328">328-332</a>;</li> + <li>at the funeral of Prince Eddie, <a href="#page_337">337</a>;</li> + <li>talks with Lady Salisbury, <a href="#page_346">346</a>;</li> + <li>given a farewell dinner at the Mansion House, <a href="#page_364">364-367</a>;</li> + <li>farewell visit to Windsor, <a href="#page_368">368</a>, <a href="#page_369">369</a>;</li> + <li>Directeur du Canal Suez, <a href="#page_382">382</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Wagner, Mdme., <a href="#page_389">389</a></li> + +<li>Wagner, Richard, <a href="#page_345">345</a></li> + +<li>Wagram, Princesse de, on Boulanger, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li> + +<li>Waldemar de Danemark, Prince, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li> + +<li>Wales, Prince and Princess of, <a href="#page_37">37</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>receive the Waddingtons, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a>;</li> + <li>entertain at Sandringham, <a href="#page_184">184-186;</a></li> + + <li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_417" title="pg 417"> </a></li> + <li>at Buckingham Palace, <a href="#page_195">195</a>;</li> + <li>in House of Lords, <a href="#page_201">201</a>;</li> + <li>at the ball given by the Artillery Corps, <a href="#page_202">202</a>;</li> + <li>Drawing-room, <a href="#page_203">203</a>;</li> + <li>visit to Ireland, <a href="#page_210">210</a>;</li> + <li>at the opening of Parliament, <a href="#page_236">236-238</a>;</li> + <li>at the Opera, <a href="#page_243">243</a>;</li> + <li>at the Jubilee Te Deum, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>;</li> + <li>at the children's fête, <a href="#page_253">253-255</a>;</li> + <li>driving, <a href="#page_276">276</a>;</li> + <li>open the Court Ball, <a href="#page_300">300</a>, <a href="#page_301">301</a>;</li> + <li>at Hatfield, <a href="#page_303">303</a>, <a href="#page_304">304</a>, <a href="#page_329">329-331</a>;</li> + <li>at the children's comedy, <a href="#page_320">320-322</a>;</li> + <li>their popularity, <a href="#page_327">327</a>;</li> + <li>death of Prince Eddie, <a href="#page_334">334</a>;</li> + <li>bid farewell to the Waddingtons, <a href="#page_363">363</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>;</li> + <li>at Cowes, <a href="#page_393">393</a> <em>et seq.</em></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Warren, Mrs., <a href="#page_396">396</a></li> + +<li>Warren, Sir Charles, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a></li> + +<li>Wantage, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_358">358</a></li> + +<li>Warsoe, M., <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a></li> + +<li>Waru, military attaché, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a></li> + +<li>Wellington, Lord, <a href="#page_358">358</a></li> + +<li>Westminster, Duchess of, <a href="#page_274">274</a></li> + +<li>White, Harry, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li> + +<li>White, Muriel, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a></li> + +<li>Whitehouse, Harry, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a></li> + +<li>Wilhemi, <a href="#page_345">345</a></li> + +<li>William I., Emperor, gives an audience to M. Waddington, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>death, <a href="#page_266">266</a>;</li> + <li>funeral service, <a href="#page_267">267</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>William II., Emperor, as Crown Prince, <a href="#page_267">267</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>State Banquet for, <a href="#page_323">323</a>;</li> + <li>formal entry into London, <a href="#page_323">323</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>;</li> + <li>at the Opera, <a href="#page_325">325</a>;</li> + <li>receives at Buckingham Palace, <a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a>;</li> + <li>goes to the Lord Mayor's Banquet, <a href="#page_327">327</a>;</li> + <li>rides in the Row, <a href="#page_327">327</a>;</li> + <li>given a luncheon at Hatfield, <a href="#page_328">328-331</a>;</li> + <li>returns to Germany, <a href="#page_331">331</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Williams, Florence, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_348">348</a></li> + +<li>Wilson, Sir Rivers, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li> + +<li>Wimborne, Lord, <a href="#page_354">354</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a></li> + +<li>Wladimir, Grand Duchess, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a></li> + +<li>Wladimir, Grand Duke, at the coronation of his brother, Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_66">66</a>; + <ul class="none"> + <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>;</li> + <li>his care for the Emperor, <a href="#page_77">77</a>;</li> + <li>at the Palace ball, <a href="#page_86">86</a>;</li> + <li>at the revue, <a href="#page_103">103</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + +<li>Wolff, Johannes, <a href="#page_270">270-272</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li> + +<li>Wolseley, General, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a></li> + +<li>Wormser, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li> + +<li>Worontzoff, Count, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a></li> + +<li>Wurts, George, <a href="#page_120">120</a></li> + +<li>Wyckham, Col., <a href="#page_147">147</a></li> + +<li>Wyndham, <a href="#page_286">286</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>X</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Xenia, Grand Duchess, <a href="#page_45">45</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Y</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>York, Duke of, <a href="#page_363">363</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a>, <a href="#page_397">397</a></li> + +<li>Yves, <a href="#page_190">190</a></li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Z</li> + +<li> </li> + +<li>Zuylen, Mdme. de, <a href="#page_274">274</a></li> + +</ul> + + + +<h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + + +<div id="fn1"><p><a href="#r1">[1]</a> A: W. here and throughout these letters refers to Mme. Waddington's +husband, M. William Henry Waddington, "G. K. S.," "H. L. K.," "A. +J. K." and "J. K.," to whom the letters are addressed, refer to Mme. Waddington's +sisters, Mrs. Eugene Schuyler, Miss Henrietta L. King, and +the late Miss Anne J. King, and to her sister-in-law, the late Mrs. Cornelius +L. King.</p></div> + +<div id="fn2"><p><a href="#r2">[2]</a> After the Berlin Congress and the Foreign Office.</p></div> + +<div id="fn3"><p><a href="#r3">[3]</a> Richard Waddington, Mme. Waddington's brother-in-law, now Senator +of the Seine Inférieure.</p></div> + +<div id="fn4"><p><a href="#r4">[4]</a> A: Petrofski.</p></div> + +<div id="fn5"><p><a href="#r5">[5]</a> Teases.</p></div> + +<div id="fn6"><p><a href="#r6">[6]</a> MacMahon, President at that time of the French Republic.</p></div> + +<div id="fn7"><p><a href="#r7">[7]</a> Now cardinal.</p></div> + +<div id="fn8"><p><a href="#r8">[8]</a> Lady Harcourt is a daughter of the late John Lothrop Motley, the historian.</p></div> + +<div id="fn9"><p><a href="#r9">[9]</a> Empress Eugénie, widow of Napoleon III., who has lived in England +for many years.</p></div> + +<div id="fn10"><p><a href="#r10">[10]</a> The Duke of Bedford.</p></div> + +<div id="fn11"><p><a href="#r11">[11]</a> Where he had been summoned on account of the death of his mother.</p></div> + +<div id="fn12"><p><a href="#r12">[12]</a> M. Waddington died in 1894. Hence the interruption in the series of +Madame Waddington's letters from 1893 until 1897.</p></div> + + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, by +Mary King Waddington + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE *** + +***** This file should be named 38825-h.htm or 38825-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/8/2/38825/ + +Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Wayne Hammond and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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