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+Project Gutenberg's Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, by Mary King Waddington
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Letters of a Diplomat's Wife
+       1883-1900
+
+Author: Mary King Waddington
+
+Release Date: February 10, 2012 [EBook #38825]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Wayne Hammond and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+    [Illustration: Mary King Waddington]
+
+    [Illustration: Signature: Mary King Waddington]
+
+
+
+
+    LETTERS OF A
+    DIPLOMAT'S WIFE
+
+    1883-1900
+
+    BY
+    MARY KING WADDINGTON
+
+    ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS
+    AND PHOTOGRAPHS
+
+    SMITH, ELDER & CO.
+    LONDON 1903
+
+
+
+
+    Copyright, 1903, by Charles Scribner's Sons
+    for the United States of America
+
+    Printed by the Trow Directory, Printing and Bookbinding Company
+    New York, U. S. A.
+
+
+
+
+    INTRODUCTORY NOTE
+
+    BY THE COLLECTOR OF THE LETTERS
+
+
+Mary Alsop King Waddington is a daughter of the late Charles King,
+President of Columbia College in the City of New York from 1849 to 1864,
+and a granddaughter of Rufus King, the second Minister sent to England
+by the United States after the adoption of the Constitution.
+
+Miss King was educated in this country. In 1871, after the death of her
+father, she went, with her mother and sisters, to live in France, and in
+1874 became the wife of M. William Henry Waddington.
+
+M. Waddington was born in Normandy, France, in 1826. His grandfather was
+an Englishman who had established cotton manufactories in France, and
+had become a naturalised French citizen. The grandson, however, was
+educated first in a Paris _lycée_, then at Rugby, and later at Trinity
+College, Cambridge. As an under-graduate he rowed in the Cambridge boat
+in the University race of 1849. Soon after leaving the University, M.
+Waddington returned to France and entered public life. In 1871 he was
+elected a representative from the Department of the Aisne to the
+National Assembly, and two years afterward was appointed Minister of
+Public Instruction in place of M. Jules Simon. In January, 1876, he was
+elected a senator for the Department of the Aisne, and two months later
+again became Minister of Public Instruction. In December, 1877, he
+accepted the portfolio of Minister of Foreign Affairs.
+
+M. Waddington was the first plenipotentiary of France to the Congress of
+Berlin in 1878. On February 4, 1879, he became President of the Council
+(Premier), retiring the following December. In the winter of 1879-1880
+he refused the offer of the London Embassy. In May, 1883, he was sent as
+Ambassador-Extraordinary to represent France at the coronation of the
+Czar Alexander III at Moscow, and upon his return from Russia was
+appointed Ambassador at the Court of St. James to succeed M. Tissot. He
+held this post until 1893, and died in Paris in the following year.
+
+Mme. Waddington accompanied her husband on his missions to both England
+and Russia. The letters collected in this volume were written during the
+period of her husband's diplomatic service to describe to her sisters
+the personages and incidents of her official life. About a fourth part
+of their number have lately been published in _Scribner's Magazine_;
+with this exception, the letters are now given to the public for the
+first time.
+
+    #Tompkins McIlvaine.#
+
+    #New York#, April 1, 1903.
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+    #Portrait of Madame Waddington#            _Frontispiece_
+
+                                                               FACING
+                                                                 PAGE
+
+    #Colonel Benckendorff#                                         34
+    _From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg._
+
+    #The Emperor Crowning the Empress. Church de
+    l'Assomption#                                                  66
+
+    #Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes#                        68
+
+    #Grand Duc Wladimir#                                          104
+    _From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg._
+
+    #M. William Waddington#                                       142
+    _From a copyright photograph by Russell & Son._
+
+    #The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London#                     168
+
+    #The Dining-room of the French Embassy, London,
+    Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries#                    172
+
+    #J. J. Jusserand, Counsellor of the French Embassy#           178
+    _Recently appointed French Ambassador to the United States.
+     From a photograph by Walery, Paris._
+
+    #The Duchess of Cambridge#                                    180
+    _From a photograph by Walery, London._
+
+    #Windsor Castle#                                              192
+
+    #M. and Mme. Waddington and Their Son#                        198
+    _From a photograph by Cesar, Paris._
+
+    #The Salon of the French Embassy in London#                   210
+
+    #Lady Salisbury#                                              216
+
+    #Knowsley Hall#                                               228
+    _The Earl of Derby's place at Prescot, Lancashire._
+
+    #The Late Earl of Derby#                                      232
+    _From a photograph by Franz Baum, London._
+
+    #The Countess Fanny Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassadress#       240
+    _From a photograph by Walery, London._
+
+    #Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the
+    State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887#                     250
+    _From a photograph, copyright, by Hughes & Mullins, Ryde, England._
+
+    #The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the
+    Uniform Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration,
+    London, June, 1887#                                           254
+    _From a photograph by Loescher & Petsch, Berlin._
+
+    #Comtesse de Florian#                                         262
+    _From a photograph by Walery, London._
+
+    #Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the
+    Shah of Persia, July 8, 1889#                                 304
+    _From a photograph by Russell & Sons, London._
+
+    #Lord Salisbury#                                              306
+    _From a photograph by Lambert Weston & Son, Dover._
+
+    #A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy#                 320
+    _From a photograph by Barker & Pragnell, London._
+
+    #The Empress Frederick, Wearing the Order of the
+    Black Eagle#                                                  388
+    _The last portrait of the Empress by the artist Angeli._
+
+    #Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of
+    Wight#                                                        392
+    _From a photograph by Broderick._
+
+
+
+
+    LETTERS
+    OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE
+
+
+
+
+    PART I
+
+    THE CORONATION OF THE CZAR
+
+
+    _To G. K. S_.
+
+    #Paris#,
+    31, Rue Dumont d'Urville,
+    March 15, 1883.
+
+Our breakfast at the English Embassy was most interesting. I began by
+refusing on account of my mourning, but Lord Lyons wrote me a nice note
+saying that there would be no one but the Léon Says and Mr. and Mrs.
+Gladstone, so I accepted. I was very anxious to see Mr. Gladstone.
+
+We had a pretty little breakfast upstairs in the small dining-room, and
+the talk at table was most interesting. I thought Mrs. Gladstone looked
+older than her husband. He of course did most of the talking. He has a
+fine voice, bright, keen, dark eyes, holds himself very erect, and
+apparently knows everything about everything. When the men were smoking
+after breakfast I had quite a talk with Mrs. Gladstone, who told me
+about the murder of Lord Frederick Cavendish. She said her husband heard
+it at a big London party, and had to go and tell Lady Frederick. Mr.
+Gladstone was more upset by the whole thing (and the having to tell the
+unfortunate wife) than she had ever seen him. Il y avait de quoi, for
+even here in Paris, where _outside_ questions don't trouble them very
+much, there was great excitement when the news came.
+
+I had a nice talk with Plunkett, who congratulated me on W.'s[1]
+appointment as Ambassador to Vienna. I told him there was no truth in
+the report (they had offered it to W., but he won't hear of it), and I
+think he is quite right. He has no particular _attaches_ at Vienna. He
+knows German well, but doesn't speak it absolutely perfectly, and hasn't
+really the social talents that one needs in Vienna. They ought to send a
+dashing general, or a courtier, not a serious savant.
+
+[1] W. here and throughout these letters refers to Mme. Waddington's
+husband, M. William Henry Waddington, "G. K. S.," "H. L. K.," "A. J. K."
+and "J. K.," to whom the letters are addressed, refer to Mme.
+Waddington's sisters, Mrs. Eugene Schuyler, Miss Henrietta L. King, and
+the late Miss Anne J. King, and to her sister-in-law, the late Mrs.
+Cornelius L. King.
+
+We certainly are leading different lives. I am wrapped in my fur coat,
+and driving in a shut carriage. Your tea in the garden sends a shiver
+through me. It sounds quite romantic having the son of the "Roi des
+Montagnes" to breakfast. I wonder if I shall ever see Athens; W. says
+when I do that I will never care again for Rome; that colouring and
+ruins are far superior in Greece. I almost think in that case I would
+rather remain under my present impression of dear, beautiful Rome, not
+quite like our American friend, who thought "the Colosseum was pretty,
+but she liked the Court-House at St. Louis better."
+
+    #Paris#,
+    Sunday, March 18, 1883.
+
+I will write a little this morning, Dear--I am just back from l'Étoile.
+I have had rather an agitated week, and here is my news, good--bad--I
+don't know myself. W. is going as Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow to
+represent France at the Coronation of the Emperor Alexander. It was a
+"bolt from the blue" to us. I will tell you from the beginning. We went
+to ride as usual Thursday morning, but rather earlier than usual (9.30).
+When we came home Mdme. Hubert told us we hadn't been gone ten minutes,
+when le Ministre des Affaires Étrangères (Challemel-Lacour) came to see
+W., was much discomposed at not finding him, and told Mdme. H. he would
+come back at 11. He didn't reappear, but one of the young attachés did,
+with a note from Challemel begging W. to come and see him directly after
+breakfast. We couldn't think what he wanted, but we both made up our
+minds it was to insist on the Vienna Embassy. I protested, and I think
+W. would not have taken it.
+
+I went out in the afternoon with Anne to try on a dress at Redfern's,
+and just as we were coming away W. appeared. He had seen the carriage at
+the door and knew he would find us. He looked rather preoccupied, so I
+said, "You are not surely going to Vienna?"
+
+"No, not to Vienna, probably to Russia, for the Coronation."
+
+I was too bewildered at first to take it in, and I must frankly say I
+was wretched. Of course he asked 24 hours to think it over, though the
+Minister urged him very much to accept at once. Challemel also wishes me
+to go, says a woman gives more éclat to an Embassy. Of course it will be
+a magnificent sight, but I am a perfect poltroon--I am so afraid they
+will take advantage of that crowd to blow up everybody. However, if that
+should happen it would be better to be blown up together, but I really
+am nervous (I am not usually such a coward, but Russian Nihilists and
+dynamiters are terrible elements to contend with), and wish they hadn't
+asked him to go.
+
+Of course it is a great honour and compliment to W.'s personal position,
+and I have given no opinion, but I don't feel happy at all. I have
+always said that I would never try to influence my husband's actions
+(public) in any way, and I suppose I have kept to that as well as most
+women do who marry public men, but I should like to put a decided veto
+now. I will keep you au courant of the decision.
+
+    March 20th.
+
+Well, Dear, it is quite decided. W. accepts to go to Moscow, and takes
+me with him. He consulted his brother and his friends and all told him
+he could not refuse. As long as they didn't send a soldier (W. himself
+would have asked Maréchal MacMahon to go, if he had been at the Foreign
+Office), he was "tout indiqué."[2] It seems all the other Powers are
+going to send Princes--Spain, the Duc de Montpensier; England, the Duke
+of Edinburgh; Italy, the Duc d'Aoste, etc.
+
+[2] After the Berlin Congress and the Foreign Office.
+
+We are to start somewhere about the 8th or 10th of May. W. is busy now
+composing his Mission. Of course everybody wants to go. It seems such an
+undertaking. We had a nice ride this morning--various people riding
+with us, and all talking about the Coronation. I overheard one timid old
+gentleman saying to W., "Vous emmenez votre femme? Vous avez tort; on ne
+sait pas ce qui peut arriver"--not very reassuring.
+
+    April 1st.
+
+My Dear, my letters will now become monotonous, as I have only one
+idea--the Mission. All the arrangements are being made, such an affair.
+W. has sent off a man to Moscow to see about a house big enough to hold
+all the party, with ballroom, and large dining-room We are 9 people--W.
+and I; Comte de Pontécoulant, Ministre Plénipotentiaire (W.'s ancien
+Chef de Cabinet); Général Pittié (Général de Division, chef de la maison
+militaire du Président de la République); Colonel Comte de Sesmaisons,
+commandant les 6ème hussards; François de Corcelle, Secrétaire
+d'Ambassade; Commandant Fayet (de la maison du Président--Jules Grévy);
+Richard Waddington, Député, Capitaine dans l'armée territoriale; Robert
+Calmon, lieutenant dans l'armée territoriale. L'uniforme est absolument
+nécessaire en Russie.
+
+We have three servants--W.'s valet Joseph and my two maids Adelaïde and
+Mdme. Hubert. All the gentlemen have their servants. Then there is
+Pierson, the huissier from the Quai d'Orsay (you know whom I mean, the
+big man who wears a gilt chain, announces the people, and writes down
+names, etc.), two cooks with one or two garçons de cuisine; 3 coachmen,
+Hubert of course, and two Englishmen. One, Mr. Leroy, such a magnificent
+person, came this morning to see W. He has already représenté on several
+occasions, and driven gala carriages, etc. He seems graciously inclined
+to go with us (with very high wages, and making his conditions--will
+drive only the Ambassador and Ambassadress in the gala carriage, etc.).
+That will necessitate very delicate negotiations with Hubert, who also
+wishes to drive only the Ambassador and me. However, as he has never
+driven a gala carriage, and they are very heavy, unwieldy vehicles to
+manage, I think he must waive his claim.
+
+    April 10th.
+
+There has also been a long consultation about horses, how many for the
+gala carriage. When Maréchal MacMahon went as Ambassador Extraordinary
+to the Emperor of Germany's Coronation he had six horses and running
+footmen (it seems there must be six or two--four are not allowed. Four
+would be too sporting--not serious enough). We have four enormous
+footmen, and one ordinary sized one for every-day use--2 gala carriages,
+and a coupé d'Orsay, which must be painted dark blue with white stripes,
+our colours.
+
+    April 12th.
+
+We are getting on slowly. The horse question is settled--no one has more
+than two, so we take 9 enormous carrossiers. Hawes is commissioned to
+get them. They could not be found anywhere in France. I forget the exact
+height (as big as they make them), but he promises to get them from
+England, or the Luxembourg, where it seems they have a special breed of
+enormous, heavy coach horses.
+
+We had a most satisfactory interview this morning with M. Lhermite, the
+head man of the great restaurant, Potel & Chabot. W. had been rather
+bothered about a head man, or major domo, who could take charge of the
+whole household. Our Joseph is not very brilliant--he does W.'s service,
+and can look after an ordinary household, but would not be at all up to
+the mark in this case. Lhermite heard that W. was looking for someone,
+so he came and volunteered to go with us, and superintend everything. He
+was so well dressed and had such good manners that W. rather demurred,
+and thought he was above the place; however Lhermite pressed it very
+much, and wound up by saying, "J'ai été cuisinier moi-même, Monsieur,
+personne ne vous servira mieux que moi." So it was settled, and he has
+full powers to engage cooks, scullions, etc.
+
+The man who went to Moscow has just sent us the plan of the house which
+he has found. It seems large and handsome, a good entrance, marble
+staircase, large ballroom and dining-room, and sufficient bedrooms. It
+calls itself "Maison Klein," not a palace; and is evidently the house of
+a rich Jew.
+
+    Sunday, May 6th.
+
+I am glad to have a day of rest, Dear. I didn't even get up for church.
+The standing at the dressmaker's is something awful. Yesterday I tried
+12 dresses (finished), 6 at Delannoy's before breakfast, and 6 at
+Philippe's afterwards. They are all handsome--I think the Court dresses
+will be handsome. The principal one for the day of the Coronation is
+sapphire blue satin embroidered all round the train (3 mètres long),
+with a beautiful wreath of flowers in chenille, and silk, and gold and
+silver leaves; very showy, in fact rather clinquant (not at all like
+me), but they said I must have "des toilettes à effet qui seraient
+remarquées." The under-dress is salmon pink satin, the front all covered
+with flowers to match the embroidery. I shall wear blue feathers (short
+ones) in my hair. I am happy to say that the regulation white waving
+plumes of the English Court are not de rigueur in Russia. The other
+train is a pale pink satin with raised dark red flowers and velvet
+leaves, all the front my old point de Venise flounces which look
+handsome. I suppose I shall take about 18 dresses in all.
+
+I have just had a nice visit from Prince Orloff, Russian Ambassador
+here, who is a great friend of ours, and who was very anxious from the
+first that I should go. I confided to him that I was very nervous and
+uncomfortable. I don't mind so much in the day time when I am seeing
+quantities of people, and interested in the preparations; but I don't
+sleep, and have visions of the Kremlin being blown up, and all sorts of
+horrors. As Richard[3] goes with us too, I have made W. appoint a
+guardian for Francis, as Henrietta and Anne could hardly bring up a
+Frenchman, and after all we may none of us ever come back.
+
+[3] Richard Waddington, Mme. Waddington's brother-in-law, now Senator of
+the Seine Inférieure.
+
+Henrietta was reduced to tears this morning when W. gave her the key of
+his secrétaire, and said his will and last directions were there, in
+case anything happened to him--cheerful preparations for a festive
+journey.
+
+    Tuesday, May 8, 1883.
+
+Our boxes and cases are being packed, and the house is a
+curiosity--crowded with every conceivable thing. My two maids (I take
+Mdme. Hubert too, as Adelaïde is not very strong, and if she gave out I
+should be in a bad way) are much taken up with their outfit. They each
+have two sets of new things, a blue serge costume and coat for
+travelling, and a black silk for their gala occasions. Pontécoulant is
+always teasing Mdme. Hubert, and asking if "ses toilettes sont prêtes."
+
+This morning I saw the 9 gigantic horses which were paraded under the
+windows. They started to-night, as they must rest at Berlin. M. Lhermite
+is a treasure. He also starts to-night with his cooks and provisions of
+all kinds. W. and Pontécoulant gave him all their instructions, and then
+he came for mine. I told him I must have my maids in the room next to
+me, and as we had a plan of the house, it is quite easy. I have a
+fair-sized bedroom and dressing-room (which he will arrange as a sort of
+boudoir) on the court (no living rooms are on the street), and the maids
+a large room opening out of the dressing-room. He is eminently
+practical; takes charge of the whole personnel, will arrange a sort of
+dormitory for all the men servants; will see that they are ready in
+time, clean and well turned out.
+
+Pontécoulant, who is also very practical, overlooks that part of the
+business; also the stables, and Mr. Leroy and Lhermite will report to
+him every morning. Leroy has also just been in, much pleased with his
+gala carriage and liveries. Hubert is beaming, and most particular about
+his lace jabot and ruffles. I wonder how they will all ever settle down
+to our quiet life again.
+
+    Thursday, 10th.
+
+I will finish this afternoon, Dear. I am ready to start, dressed in my
+travelling dress, dark blue cloth, with a long coat lined with red
+satin, and a black hat with blue feathers (I haven't got on the coat and
+hat yet). There has been such a procession of people all day, and great
+vans to carry off the luggage. I have been rather bothered about my
+jewels--how to carry them. I have taken everything the family own.
+Anne's necklace, with some extra stones I had, has been converted into a
+tiara. All the Russian women wear their National coiffure at the
+Coronation, the Kakoshnik. As that is very high, studded with jewels,
+any ordinary arrangement of stars and feathers would look insignificant.
+Freddy, who is an authority on such matters, advised me to concentrate
+all my efforts on the tiara--he also suggested ropes of pearls
+(artificial) but I couldn't make up my mind to that. Chemin, the
+jeweller, was very anxious I should "louer" a sort of breastplate of
+diamonds--but on the whole I preferred taking less--merely mine and the
+sisters'. What I shall do if they are stolen or lost I am sure I don't
+know. I don't care to carry them myself in a bag, as I never by any
+chance carry my bag, I should certainly leave it somewhere; and I don't
+like to give it to the maids either, so I have put all the jewels in two
+trunks, scattered about the fond, wrapped up with silk stockings, etc.
+
+I have given my last instructions to Nounou, and a nice young coachman
+who comes to replace Hubert in our absence, and also provided a surprise
+for baby in the shape of a large train, which will distract him the
+first days. We saw also this morning the detective who goes with us. He
+is one of those who always accompany the foreign Princes who pass
+through Paris, and is said to know well all the great nihilist leaders
+(all of whom he says will be at the Coronation). He has two ordinary
+policemen with him. They go of course on the train with us, and never
+lose sight of us. I shall feel rather like a distinguished criminal
+being tracked across Europe.
+
+Pontécoulant is very funny over Philippe the coiffeur, who presented
+himself at the Quai d'Orsay, and insisted upon being included in the
+suite (consequently travelling free of expense on the special trains,
+etc., with us). He really isn't my coiffeur--I never have anyone except
+Georges from time to time, but I daresay I shall be glad to have him. He
+said to Pontécoulant, "Monsieur le Comte comprend bien qu'il faut que je
+pose le diadème de Madame l'Ambassadrice le jour du Couronnement;"
+however he has gained his point, and Madame l'Ambassadrice takes her own
+coiffeur with her, as well as her two maids.
+
+Well, Dear, we are going in an hour, and I must try and reason with
+myself, and not be the arrant coward I really feel like.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Kaiserhof, Berlin#,
+    Saturday, May 12th, 1883.
+
+Here we are, having accomplished our journey so far most comfortably. We
+arrived last night about 9, and this morning I am unpacking a little,
+and settling myself, as we shall stay four or five days. Our departure
+from the Gare du Nord Thursday night was a curiosity. We got rather
+early to the station, as W. was preoccupied with the baggage, and
+besides there were last words to say to all the people who came to see
+us off. Henrietta, rather tearful, came with us to the station--Francis
+was so engrossed with his new railway train that was careering round on
+beautiful green rails in his father's study, that he was quite
+indifferent. The whole quai was filled with boxes and trunks labelled
+"Waddington, Moscow," and when you think that all the soldiers took
+their saddles and trappings of all kinds, and what the stable alone
+represented, 2 enormous gala carriages, one coupé d'Orsay, and all the
+heavy harness and servants' liveries, you can imagine what an excitement
+there was until everything was put on board.
+
+We started, however, fairly punctually--W. and I had a lit-salon, with
+cabinet de toilette; the two maids and W.'s man next door, and
+Sesmaisons and François de Corcelle (the only two who came with us, the
+rest of the Mission joins us Tuesday at Berlin), had their coupé next to
+ours. There were all sorts of last directions to be given to
+Pontécoulant, and to poor Henrietta, who remains in charge of Francis.
+
+I slept pretty well all night, as you know I am a good traveller, and
+about 7 Adelaïde came in to arrange me a little, as we were to breakfast
+at Cologne (where we were due at 8 o'clock) with our consul there, and
+also the consul at Düsseldorf, who is rather a friend of W.'s. We had a
+very good little breakfast in the private room, and when we started
+again, the Chef-de-Gare coming at the last moment to conduct us to our
+coupé, there was much bowing and scraping to Monsieur l'Ambassadeur and
+Mdme. l'Ambassadrice. We made quite an excitement at the station, and
+all the people who were coming and going in the numerous trains that
+passed through had their heads out of the windows to see what was going
+on. They had filled our coupé with papers of all kinds (German),
+illustrated and political, also a large bouquet for me.
+
+We dined at Hanover, not in a private room this time, but at a round
+table at one end of the large room. Who do you think came to see me? Mr.
+Joy; he had seen in the papers that we were to pass through, so he took
+himself down to the station to see if he could see us. I introduced him
+to W.--we had only time for a little talk, as he came rather late. He
+also brought papers and a magazine or two, so we are well supplied with
+literature for the present.
+
+When we arrived here at the station we found M. de Courcel, our
+Ambassador in Berlin, waiting for us with all his staff. He drove us at
+once in his carriage to the hotel, and said he would come in again an
+hour later and tell W. about his audiences, etc. We have beautiful
+rooms, a large salon looking on the street, dining-room, two good-sized
+bedrooms and a very good ante-room (where by the way Pierson, with his
+chain and sword and dress clothes, is already installed. When I came out
+of the salon just now he was there, and I rather felt as if I was back
+at the Quai d'Orsay, and he was announcing my visitors).
+
+While we were talking to Courcel last night one of the hotel servants
+came in to say--would I go for one moment to speak to the maids, he
+couldn't make out what they wanted. I did go, but merely to tell these
+ladies that I would thank them to get along as well as they could, and
+to find a polygot waiter, or someone to translate for them; that I
+certainly was not going to look out for them, and they had better try
+and learn a little German.
+
+Courcel says the Emperor, Prince Imperial, and Bismarck all want to see
+W.--he also warns him that Bismarck is in an execrable humor. I don't
+think W. minds that very much. He is a very cool gentleman himself, and
+I imagine he will say all he wants to to the great man.
+
+    10-30.
+
+W. and I went for a walk before breakfast to the Pariser Platz to see
+the outside of the French Embassy; it looks big and imposing. We came
+home through "Unter den Linden." Berlin has much improved, and has much
+more the air of a capital than when I first saw it a great many years
+ago. Of course I was much struck with the quantities of soldiers one
+sees in the streets. The officers are a fine lot of men, but, like
+ramrods, so stiff; and when they are walking two or three together take
+up the whole pavement.
+
+Sesmaisons and Corcelle breakfasted with us--Sesmaisons is delighted to
+be back in Berlin. He was military attaché there at the time of the
+Berlin Congress, when St. Vallier was Ambassador, and has many friends.
+M. de Courcel came in just as we were finishing, with a long list for
+W., his audience cards, invitations, etc. Then came George de Bunsen
+with his wife and daughters. I had never seen the ladies of the family,
+and was glad to make their acquaintance. They were very friendly, and we
+made various engagements with them. M. de Bunsen I had seen before in
+France--he is quite charming, very good-looking, and not at all
+Prussian, so cosmopolitan, which is always most attractive.
+
+W. and I went out together and paid several visits, to the Embassy
+first, where we found Mdme. de Courcel. The rooms are large and
+handsome, with good pictures and splendid tapestries. We took a turn in
+the Thiergarten, and the Jardin Zoölogique (where we saw an enormous
+yellow lion--a terrible beast, handsome, too). W. then went to see
+Hatzfeldt (Foreign Minister), who was very amiable, but said nothing in
+particular--none of Bismarck's people ever do.
+
+We dined early at the Embassy with all the personnel. The dinner was
+good and handsome, plenty of servants, lights, flowers--everything in
+very good style. While the men were smoking Mdme. de Courcel and I
+talked. She told me some of her Berlin experiences, and how difficult
+her beginnings were, but I suppose they always must be until one has had
+time to look around a little. We have just come home, and after talking
+a little with the gentlemen I have left them to their cigars and papers,
+and am glad to be in my own quarters.
+
+The maids have had a delightful afternoon. They have found a gérant who
+speaks French, and who has taken them a little about Berlin, which they
+find "très gentil." W. has his audience from the Emperor at one o'clock
+to-morrow in uniform. None of the ladies, Empress nor Princesses, are
+here, so I have nothing to do.
+
+    Sunday, May 13th.
+
+I didn't go out this morning, but wrote and read. The two gentlemen
+breakfasted with us as usual, and a little before one W. went off for
+his audience with the Emperor in full uniform, which is very becoming to
+him. (He hates it as it is so heavy, with all the thick gold embroidery,
+and he is very hot and uncomfortable.) The audience lasted about
+three-quarters of an hour. W. was astounded at the Emperor's appearance
+and conversation, said he was au courant of everything--he said among
+other things--"Ah, vous emmenez Mme. Waddington à Moscow? eh bien! moi,
+je n'envoie pas mon héritier," adding though immediately he didn't think
+there was any danger from the Nihilists this time.
+
+He had barely time to get home and out of his uniform when Lord and Lady
+Ampthill arrived. They were quite charming, both of them. He and I
+plunged into the old Roman days, where we knew him so well as Odo
+Russell. They are great favourites here, both at court and with their
+colleagues. He spoke a great deal about St. Vallier, said he was the
+best colleague he had ever had.
+
+At four W. started again to see Bismarck (not in uniform this time), and
+I drove out to the George Bunsens' to have tea. They have a pretty
+house. Theodore was also there, and we had a pleasant hour. They asked
+us to come in to-morrow after our dinner at the Embassy. When I got back
+I found W. smoking in a big arm-chair, quite pleased with his talk with
+Bismarck, who was most amiable, had at least no "crise de nerfs" while
+he was there. He said he was very frank, almost brutal, in his
+appreciations of other countries, and particularly of different public
+men whose views didn't coincide directly with his, but on the whole not
+too offensive. He kept him until his dinner was announced (at 5
+o'clock), and asked him to come and see him on his way back from Moscow,
+and give him his impressions; so apparently it is only from his own
+agents that he doesn't wish impressions. Do you remember C. writing to
+him, from the Hague, I think, the account of some manifestation or
+political crisis, and naturally saying what he thought about the matter;
+and the very curt answer he received from the Minister, saying he had
+asked for facts, and not for "personal appreciations." One would think
+that the opinion of the most ordinary agent on the spot would have a
+certain importance.
+
+    Tuesday, 15th.
+
+It is very warm--I have been out with Adelaïde trying to get a light
+blouse, my cloth body is unbearable. Everything was shut yesterday, as
+it was Whit Monday. W. dined at the Palace at 5, Sesmaisons also. I went
+to the races with Mdme. de Courcel and some of the young men. It was
+rather amusing, a lovely day, about three quarters of an hour by train
+from Berlin. The public was not nearly so élégant as on a Paris
+race-course, but there were more pretty women, and quantities of stiff,
+arrogant officers (always en tenue).
+
+When we got back to the hotel at 7.30 we found W. at the door, just back
+from his dinner, so François de Corcelle and I dined tête-à-tête, and W.
+talked to us--said the dinner was good, small and easy. The Prince
+Imperial and Grand Duchess of Baden were both there. The Grand Duchess
+told W. that in a telegram received that morning from her mother (the
+Empress Augusta) she had said how much she regretted not seeing him,
+that she had always watched his career with great interest, and was very
+glad to see him coming to the front again.
+
+The Emperor talked about everything--France; England; the religious
+question in France; he believed French women of all classes were
+clerical, and under the influence of the priests, so naturally they
+could have no sympathy with a liberal government, "which is a pity, it
+is a mistake to have the women against you." We had an audience with the
+Prince Imperial after dinner, which was pleasant, but absolutely
+commonplace. He and all the Princes were in uniform, petite tenue.
+
+We finished our evening at the Bunsens', which was pleasant. W. was very
+glad to have a quiet talk with M. de Bunsen, who is most attractive,
+such a charming manner. This evening we have dined as usual at the
+French Embassy with quite a party, including Bleichroeder, an Israelite
+banker, bras droit of Bismarck, and therefore interesting. We came
+early, as all the rest of our Mission arrived to-night at 9 o'clock, and
+we wanted to see them. They all came up after supper, looking most
+cheerful, had had a very pleasant journey, rather warm in the middle of
+the day, and were quite game to see all they can of Berlin to-morrow, as
+we go on to Warsaw to-morrow night.
+
+    Wednesday, May 16th.
+
+We are starting this evening, Dear, so I will scratch a few lines to
+finish this very long epistle, and will send it from here. It is still
+very warm. I went out to see some of the pictures (how beautiful the
+Velasquez are) and the marbles of Pergamos, and Pontécoulant and I
+breakfasted together at the hotel; W. and Richard at the George
+Bunsens', who really have been as friendly and hospitable as possible.
+After breakfast we had various visits, and then Pontécoulant, Corcelle
+and I went for a last drive in the Thier-Garten. I hoped we should meet
+either the Emperor (I have never seen him) or the Prince Imperial, but
+we didn't. There were plenty of people riding and driving, as it was the
+fashionable day "Corso." We saw the Princess Frederick Charles in an
+open carriage with four horses, and a piqueur in front. The Court
+liveries are handsome, but sombre, black and silver. Everybody bowed and
+curtseyed, the officers saluting de front.
+
+We went round by the Zoo to show Pontécoulant the big lion. Pontécoulant
+was most amusing over their journey, and said he was nearly driven out
+of his mind the day before they started with all the people who came to
+see him. He says Philippe, the coiffeur, has never left him, that it
+won't be his fault if my diadem is not perfectly posé, and that he plied
+him with beer all along the route. He is here supping and living at the
+hotel with all our suite, and sent word to me this morning that he was
+at my disposition to make me a "coiffure de circonstance" for the night
+journey. What do you suppose it would have been?
+
+Pontécoulant had seen Henrietta and Francis the day he left, and had
+left orders at the Foreign Office that the Havas telegrams which will
+keep her au courant of our movements shall always be sent to her. All
+the personnel except W. and me dine at the Embassy to-night. I am not
+sorry to have a quiet evening. We leave at 11 to-night, and get to
+Alexandrownow about 7.30 to-morrow. That is the Russian frontier, and
+there we shall have some sort of official reception.
+
+W. has been riding these last two days with Sancy, the military attaché,
+and that always does him good. I couldn't find any sort of silk blouse,
+so I trust it won't be very warm travelling to-night. When we cross the
+frontier I shall feel as if our journey had begun. Here we have lived so
+with the Embassy that I hardly feel as if I was abroad, only the cadre
+is different, and the Prussian uniforms a disagreeable reminder. I don't
+think it is an easy post to be Ambassador here, and I should think M. de
+Courcel's succession would be a very difficult one. He knows German
+well, and has always lived with diplomatists, but if they send a
+political man, I think he will have a hard time; though as Bismarck said
+to W. when they were talking about any possible war in Europe--"Je
+désire la paix, je suis un homme satisfait," which wasn't very pleasant
+for the French Ambassador to hear, as I suppose what has largely
+contributed to his satisfaction is the possession of Alsace-Lorraine.
+
+We have had our dinner, and W. smoked on the balcony, and we saw all the
+gentleman-servants, omnibuses and baggage start. We shall only go just
+in time to have 5 minutes talk on the platform with M. de Courcel, who
+is coming to say good-by. The gérant of the hotel has just been up to
+hope we were satisfied--would we telegraph when we came back, as of
+course he would give us the same rooms, and presented me with a large
+bouquet.
+
+Did I say that the Malagache Embassy was at the hotel, on the same floor
+with us. Every time I go down the corridor I see two or three tall, dark
+men, dressed in white flowing garments and white turbans, who make me
+low salaams. They are not going to the "Kronung," as they call it here.
+
+My next letter will be from Warsaw, where we should arrive at 4
+to-morrow afternoon.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Hôtel de l'Europe, Varsovie#,
+    Thursday, May 17th, 1883.
+
+Here we are, Dear, having arrived from Berlin at 3.30 this afternoon. We
+started at 11--it was very hot even at that hour of the night, and the
+coupé-lit stuffy and uncomfortable. M. de Courcel and all his staff were
+at the station to see us off, and the two Embassies united made quite a
+gathering. I had a little talk with Princess Guillaume Radziwill, who is
+starting for the Coronation. It seems she has splendid jewels, and was
+rather bothered to know how to carry them. She has got them all on, in
+little leather bags around her waist, and she thinks she won't be very
+comfortable all night, with pins, brooches, etc., running into her. She
+was horrified when I told her where mine were.
+
+The night was long, we were not very comfortable, and the gentlemen
+were decidedly squeezed in one little carriage. We stopped somewhere,
+I don't remember the name, about 6. The men all got out and had coffee.
+I didn't move, but they sent me in a cup. We got to Alexandrownow, the
+Russian frontier, about 8. The station had a decidedly festive
+appearance--flags, greens, soldiers, music, etc. They were evidently
+preparing a salute and a national anthem of some kind. We all thought it
+was for us, and were proceeding to emerge to the strains of the
+"Marseillaise," when we heard the "Wacht-am-Rhein." It seems there was a
+Hessian Prince, nephew of the Emperor, on board, who was also going to
+the Coronation, so we rentréed our heads, and remained quietly in our
+carriages until they had disposed of him.
+
+Then came our turn. We were received with all ceremony--a tall Russian
+officer took charge of me, saying, in very good French, he was sure I
+would like to brush off the dust, and have some tea, etc. He took me
+upstairs to a very nice room, where a little maid was waiting with hot
+water, towels, brushes, tea, and little rolls. I took off my dress to
+have it brushed, and while I was standing in my petticoats several
+gentlemen came to the door (which wouldn't shut), and made various
+perfectly unintelligible remarks to me. The little maid laughed and made
+signs, and carried off my dress, which I thought was dangerous--however
+I couldn't say anything, so I put myself behind the door, and Adelaide
+arranged my hair; and I was just thinking of having a cup of tea when
+the maid reappeared with my dress, accompanied by another officer, who
+told me in French, from the other side of the door, that his Royal
+Highness of Hesse hoped I would do him the honour of breakfasting with
+him. I said I would come with pleasure, but begged they wouldn't wait,
+as I was not quite ready. As soon as I was dressed I sallied out, found
+my officer waiting, who conducted me to a private room, where were the
+Prince and his party, including W. and a Russian general, who had been
+sent from Varsovie to meet the Hessian Prince.
+
+They were all at table--the Prince put me next to him, introduced the
+Russian general and all his suite, and we had rather a pleasant hour. We
+had excellent tea in glasses (the first time I ever saw it), delicious
+little rolls, eggs, and cold meat. The Prince is a tall,
+broad-shouldered, good-natured German, speaking French quite well.
+
+We had the same ceremony at starting, first the "Wacht-am-Rhein" for the
+Germans, then the "Marseillaise" for us. The journey was not
+particularly interesting from the frontier here, but Varsovie itself
+most curious. We found the same bustle and preparation at the station
+here--the Governor of Varsovie, and Préfet de Police en tenue, and our
+Consul, M. Bérard.
+
+We drove at once to the hotel, looked at our rooms, which are
+comfortable, and started again for a little drive through the town
+before dinner. Anything so unlike the cities one has been accustomed to
+see can't be imagined, long, straggling streets, enormous spaces, many
+houses tumbling down, and abominable pavement, deep holes, and paving
+stones as big as ordinary rocks--why the carriage ever got along was a
+mystery to us all. The Russian coachman, a perfect type with his long
+caftan and flat cap. Why the horses remain attached to the carriage is a
+problem, as they apparently have no harness of any description. I used
+to think we didn't use much in America. Will you ever forget Coligny's
+face at Oyster Bay when we started trotting down hill without any
+breeching?
+
+There were quantities of dirty Polish Jews in every direction, all with
+their long caftans, greasy, black curls, and ear-rings. I had time to
+rest a little before dinner. We all dined together, also Bérard the
+Consul, all the men in their dress clothes, and I in my grey moiré with
+white lace, and a big, black velvet bow, one string of pearls which I
+had on under my corsage. Pontécoulant, who is the next man to W., took
+me in, and I had General Pittié on the other side. The dinner was
+handsome and well served. Pontécoulant had attended to that while we
+were driving about.
+
+After dinner the men all went off to the theatre in the Governor's box
+to see a famous ballet. I was rather tired, and as we start again
+to-morrow, and have two nights in the train, I sha'n't mind going to bed
+early. I was interrupted, as we have had a visit, pleasant enough, from
+Mavrocordato (Greek), who is also on his way to Moscow to represent his
+country, and now I am going to bed. We leave to-morrow at 4, and I will
+try and write a little en route. They say I can probably, as the Russian
+roads (railroads) are smooth, and they go very slowly.
+
+    Friday, 2 o'clock.
+
+I will go on a little and send this letter also from here. We had an
+expedition this morning to one of the châteaux belonging to some member
+of the Sobieski family, or rather belonging to a Potocki quelconque,
+where there are many souvenirs of Sobieski. I never was on such a
+villainous pavement (they tell me Moscow is worse), and the road long
+and straight through flat country, not very interesting. The château was
+full of pictures and bibelots of all kinds, and every possible souvenir
+of Sobieski, flags, swords, snuff-boxes, etc., and quite worth seeing. I
+enjoyed the outing, as everything was absolutely unique, carriages,
+costumes, carts, people, language, houses, a poor tumble-down little
+hovel next to a great palace with gates and courts and gardens.
+
+We lunched again with all the Embassy, and then I went to see what was
+happening to the maids. I had left them in such a dejected condition on
+the landing when I went out. They couldn't get hold of any servant
+(couldn't make them understand when they did), couldn't get my boots or
+travelling skirt, or hot water, or anything, in fact. The hotel is full
+of people, all starting this afternoon, and there is a fine confusion,
+but they really must learn to get along without all modern conveniences.
+
+    #Entre Varsovie et Moscou#,
+    en wagon, Samedi soir, 19.
+
+I will try and write a little, Dear, while we are stopping at Smolensk
+for tea. It is rather difficult when we are moving (though we go slowly)
+as you will see by the writing, as the train shakes a great deal. As
+soon as it stops we all tumble out, are received by railway officials in
+uniform, and conveyed to a private room decorated with greens and flags,
+where most elaborate repasts are provided. We got off from Varsovie
+yesterday most comfortably about 4 o'clock. Various officials, our
+Consul Bérard, were at the station to see us off, and an engineer of the
+company, who goes with us to Moscow to interpret and look after us
+generally. The train is most luxurious--for W. and me one long saloon
+carriage lined with grey satin, and with every variety of easy chair,
+sofa, table, writing-table, lamp, etc. Flowers on one of the tables and
+maps of the route on another. Communicating with it and directly behind
+are two bedrooms for us--mine is capitonné in blue satin, a very
+good-sized bed, glass, chairs, table, etc., also a dressing-room with
+every modern convenience. W.'s is grey satin, equally comfortable, with
+dressing-room, bath, etc.--behind these again a coupé for the
+maids--then a long carriage for the rest of the Mission with chairs,
+tables, etc, and small coupés. The engineer showed us all the
+arrangements, hoped we were satisfied, and also told us that two
+employés would be stationed at each end of our carriage always for
+whatever we might want.
+
+We got off fairly punctually. I wonder if I shall ever see Varsovie
+again. We stopped somewhere about 5.30, and found a charming little tea
+waiting for us in a private room, served of course in glasses with
+pieces of lemon, and excellent rolls and cakes. There we fraternized
+with the Dutch Mission, who are also on the train. M. Schimmelpenninck,
+a tall, stylish-looking man, with his son and gendre. The young men had
+recognized W., having seen him at the Congrès de Berlin; so they
+recalled themselves, and we made friends. We agreed to take all our
+meals together, and as apparently we shall have about 6 in the day we
+shall probably see a good deal of each other.
+
+We had rather a pleasant evening, dined (very well) at Brest, always the
+same ceremonial; and after dinner some of the gentlemen came and paid us
+visits. We talked of course about "La Grande Armée" and Napoleon's
+campaigns, as we are passing over the same ground that they followed.
+The two moujiks at the doors are most attentive and intelligent; as soon
+as they hear any noise in our carriage, opening or shutting a window, or
+anything falling (some of the heavy books slipped off a table just now),
+they seem to divine it, and appear instantly and ask, I suppose, what we
+want. We have no means of communication, but they evidently understand.
+
+I was very comfortable last night in my little blue room, and had been
+sleeping quietly, when I seemed to divine that someone had come in. I
+didn't stir, and half opened my eyes, and for a moment was rather
+startled. The lamp, shaded, was burning, and in came one of the moujiks
+quite quietly. He moved very softly about the room, rather an appalling
+figure, with his high boots, fur cap, and curious half-savage face
+(gentle too), touched door and windows, fussed over the lamp, drew the
+curtain of the dressing-room a little closer to keep out any draught
+(didn't come up to the bed), and went out again just as quietly. It was
+a curious experience, flying through the darkness of the night, and
+wakening to see that strange figure prowling about.
+
+About 7, I think, in the morning he reappeared, this time standing at
+the door, and making many perfectly unintelligible remarks. It was so
+evident I didn't understand that he smiled, made a despairing gesture
+with his hand, and disappeared. As I was quite sure he would come back I
+got up and fastened the door. In a few moments I heard a colloquy
+outside, and then the voice of the engineer asking when I would like my
+maid and my tea--also saying they would stop in about an hour for early
+breakfast, and that mine and the Ambassador's would be brought to our
+carriage.
+
+I asked to have the maid at once--so Adelaïde appeared with hot water
+and a cup of tea, and I dressed as comfortably as if I was in my
+dressing-room at the Rue Dumont d'Urville. As soon as I was ready I went
+into the big carriage, which looked very nice and clean, had been swept
+and dusted, window-panes washed (Adelaïde saw the men doing it); a very
+nice little breakfast tray was brought, tea, every variety of good
+little rolls, and some fish. We contented ourselves with the rolls,
+didn't experiment upon the fish. The table was close to the window--all
+the gentlemen came up and talked to us, and as usual there were
+quantities of people about.
+
+We have passed through most desolate country, miles of plains, with
+scarcely any traces of human habitation. The cottages are very few and
+far between--generally a collection of little wood hovels, or "isbas,"
+as they are called. We go long distances without seeing houses, fences,
+gates, or even a road. At all the stations there are people--the big
+ones crowded--and at the smaller ones, where we hardly stop, merely
+slacken, peasants--and such objects, one can hardly tell the men from
+the women; long, unkempt hair, all barefooted, and all wearing a sort of
+fur garment with a hole in the middle to pass the head through, and
+which falls low down to their knees.
+
+We have just had tea at Smolensk, which is very Russian looking, with
+gilded domes and pink and green painted roofs. The gentlemen are smoking
+and walking up and down the platform, always exciting great attention.
+There are two rather pretty girls, with fair hair and red blouses, who
+are giggling and looking, and evidently wish to be remarked.
+
+We have gone on again now and are settled for the evening. The carriage
+looks so comfortable, curtains drawn, lamps lighted, flowers on the
+tables, and quantities of books and maps. Sesmaisons and Corcelle have
+just been in with their maps and Napoleon's Memoirs. It is most
+interesting to follow it all. They read out bits here and there as we
+passed through some well-known locality. At the Beresina, I think, where
+the passage of the river was so awful--some of the men quite exhausted,
+and yet not wanting to lie down on the snow, made themselves seats out
+of the dead bodies of their comrades. What an awful retreat!
+
+We have crossed the Beresina, where we saw a long procession of wood
+rafts. They are of the most primitive description--long logs lashed
+together, and in the middle a sort of cabin or hovel, where the women
+and children live. They were floating slowly down with the tide as we
+passed, and singing a sort of sad, monotonous chaunt, which sounded
+weird and pathetic, but impressionnant. They say all the Russian
+National songs have that undercurrent of sadness.
+
+Our dinner to-night was very gay. Schimmelpenninckg is most attractive.
+We have become great friends--I have even confided to him where my
+jewels are, as he thought I had left a bag in one of the stations, and
+was convinced it held my diamonds. I told him what dress I was going to
+wear at the Coronation, also my difficulty in finding out what the
+French Court dress was. The Empress never wore a regular Court
+train--her presentations in the Tuileries were always in the evening, in
+ordinary ball dress. I didn't think Queen Marie Amélie's would have been
+very pretty, so we concocted a Court dress from pictures, other people's
+souvenirs, etc.
+
+I was glad to walk up and down a little--one gets cramped sitting so
+long, even with our outings for food, which are frequent. The tea is
+extremely good always, a sort of greenish flavour, but very delicate,
+and I should think very strong. Pontécoulant showed me Monsieur
+Philippe in the distance, talking and gesticulating, evidently
+considering himself a most important feature of the Mission--also the
+detective, who looks like an amiable well-to-do bourgeois travelling for
+his pleasure, until you meet his eyes, and there is a quick, keen look
+which tells you he is very much on the alert. He has again just given W.
+the pleasing piece of information that all the well-known Nihilist
+leaders will be at Moscow.
+
+Hubert came up and says the horses are quite well--their rest at Berlin
+did them good. He is very much impressed with the absolute solitude of
+the country--"pas de villages--pas de barrières, pas même de chemins."
+We have also a telegram from M. Lhermite saying the house is quite in
+order, he and his cooks and attendants installed, and he will have
+breakfast ready for us to-morrow morning. We arrive about 8. We must be
+ready early, as they say the approach to Moscow is very fine. It stands
+low in a plain, but one sees the gilt domes and coloured steeples from a
+great distance.
+
+Our engineer tells us the railway officials are out of their minds. He
+says the special envoys--Princes particularly--change their minds and
+their routes all the time. They all have special trains, and the
+confusion will be something awful. The Hessian Prince is just ahead of
+us. We haven't crossed many trains, and yet there must be frequent
+communication between Varsovie and Moscow.
+
+I still feel rather in a dream, but not tired. I must stop now as it is
+nearly eleven--my next letter will be from Maison Klein, Malaia
+Dimitrofska, Moscow. Richard came in just now, and we have been talking
+over our future--Russia is a "terra incognita" to all of us. It has
+been certainly most novel and interesting so far. Just now we stopped
+for a few moments at a little station, quite alive with people and
+lights, as of course trains are going all night. The people look so
+different--generally fair, with flat features, and a repressed look, as
+if they had always been kept down.
+
+This long effusion will go early to-morrow morning, as they send off a
+valise at once from Moscow.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France, Moscow#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Monday, May 21st, 1883.
+
+We arrived quite safely and comfortably yesterday morning--34 people,
+counting servants, policemen, etc. I hadn't time to write, but you will
+have had the Havas telegram announcing our arrival. I am writing in my
+little boudoir, which looks on a large, square, light courtyard, and I
+wish you could see the wild confusion that reigns there. Quantities of
+boxes and "ballots" of every description. Mdme. Hubert, with a veil tied
+over her head, struggling to get at some of my trunks, which are all marked
+with an enormous M. K. W. in white letters (a private mark, so as not to
+confound them with the general mark of the Mission). Leroy, Hubert, and
+Pontécoulant trying to get the big carriage cases opened (they look like
+small houses). Sesmaisons and Calmon fussing over their saddles, which they
+apparently had got without much difficulty--quantities of Russian helpers
+working, talking, but _not_ loud, nor yelling to each other. How anything
+will ever come out of all that chaos I don't know.
+
+However, I must begin at the beginning. We got here about 8.30 yesterday
+morning. We were all up early, as the country grew more interesting as
+we approached Moscow. We had a confused vision of gilt domes, high
+coloured steeples, etc., but nothing stood out very distinctly. There
+was a fine confusion at the station--quantities of officials, all in
+uniform, detachments of soldiers, red carpets, etc. We were _not_
+received officially, not being Princes. The Mission only exists here
+_after_ they have presented their lettres de créance. We found our
+consul, Lagrené, waiting for us, several members of the French Colony,
+and Lhermite. We drove off at once to our Ambassade. The main street,
+Tverskaya, looked very gay with quantities of flags and draperies in
+every direction, and even at that time in the morning a great many
+people. Our house looks well--the entrance isn't bad, and the staircase
+marble, handsome. I hardly looked at the reception-rooms, as I was
+anxious to get to mine. Lhermite had done them very well, quite as I
+wanted, and a nice-looking woman, Russian of course, the femme de charge
+left in the house, was there to see if everything was right.
+
+I washed off a little dust, got a cup of tea, and then went with W. and
+Pontécoulant to inspect the house. The ballroom, "serre," and 3
+drawing-rooms are nice; the dining-room small in comparison and low. Not
+a breath of air anywhere, double windows, hermetically sealed, with
+_one_ pane opening in each; so the very first thing we did was to send
+for someone to take down the extra window, and open everything wide--the
+close smell was something awful. The femme de charge was astounded, and
+most unwilling. I think she thought we wished to demolish the whole
+establishment. W. has a large room opening out of the drawing-room.
+Pontécoulant took charge of the distribution of the gentlemen's rooms
+(which wasn't easy, as they were generally small, and not particularly
+comfortable, but I must say they were all easy going, and not at all
+inclined to make difficulties). He chose a room down-stairs for himself
+next the Chancellerie, which he has arranged at once very well. The
+ballroom is handsome, a parquet floor, and yellow satin furniture; the
+other drawing-rooms too are well furnished in silk and satin. The
+dining-room is small, but the serre will make a very good fumoir where
+the gentlemen can sit and smoke. It has nice cane arm-chairs and tables,
+and will be a resource.
+
+I went back to my own rooms and arranged my affairs with the maids.
+There is a large room, half lingerie, half débarras, upstairs, with good
+placards and closets where I can put my dresses if I ever get hold of
+them. They must be unpacked at once, particularly the velvet dresses. Of
+course I am always at the window. My Dear, how it would amuse you, so
+absolutely unlike anything you have ever seen.
+
+The men seem to work well enough--they all wear red flannel shirts
+tucked into their trousers, and high boots--at the present moment they
+are all gaping at the horses, who certainly do look enormous (the
+Russian horses are all small). It seems ours stand the cannon, and
+shouting, and waving flags and draperies very well (so the lessons in
+the École Militaire, where they were taken several times after they
+arrived in Paris to have cannons and guns fired close to their heads,
+and flags waved about, did them good).
+
+A little Russian maid, in a red petticoat, and a blue handkerchief tied
+over her head, has just appeared, and I suppose will be a sort of fille
+de chambre. She smiles every time I speak to the maids, and watches
+every movement I make. I moved a fauteuil just now, and in an instant
+she had possession of it, and stood over it looking at me hard to see
+where I wanted it put. I daresay we shall get on very well. We
+breakfasted at 12.30 all together--a very good breakfast, flowers on
+the table, and everything most correct. The gentlemen were amusing, all
+giving their experiences. Just as we were finishing we heard someone
+coming, with the clank of sabre, and those long, heavy spurs the
+Russians wear; and a good-looking officer, Colonel Benckendorff, who
+was attached to our Embassy, appeared. He will never lose sight of us
+now until the ceremonies are over.
+
+We adjourned to the serre, and he put us au courant of everything. He
+told us the crowd and confusion at the Kremlin was indescribable (all
+the foreign Princes are lodged there). He had all sorts of papers,
+invitations, audiences, cartes de circulation, etc. W. is to present his
+lettres de créance and all the Mission en grande tenue at 10.30 to-day.
+(I am waiting now to see them start.) W. has just been in, looking very
+well, as he always does in full uniform. He wears the Danish Grand
+Cordon, he hasn't the Légion d'Honneur nor any Russian decoration. Two
+Maîtres des Cérémonies, covered with gold lace and embroideries, have
+arrived in an ordinary Russian Court coupé--they have also an Imperial
+gala carriage for the Ambassador, and two ordinary Court carriages, and
+they have just started, quite a crowd of people before the house to see
+them depart. First went two Maîtres des Cérémonies, their coats covered
+with gold embroidery; then W. alone in a gala carriage with four horses,
+two footmen standing behind, two mounted, and an écuyer. The rest of the
+Mission followed in two ordinary Court carriages, all with the Imperial
+liveries, which are not very handsome, long red cloaks, with a sort of
+cocked hat. Benckendorff followed alone in his private carriage.
+
+[Illustration: Colonel Benckendorff From a photograph by Bergamasco St
+Petersburg]
+
+Our big footmen figured for the first time--the four in their blue and
+silver livery were at the door when the Maîtres des Cérémonies arrived,
+and Pierson with his chain in the anteroom. They looked very well;
+Lhermite and our coachman saw the whole thing, and were not at all
+impressed with carriages, liveries, or horses. They said the carriages
+were absolutely shabby, the liveries neither well made nor well put on,
+and the horses beneath criticism. They do look extraordinarily small
+before those great heavy state carriages, rather like rats, as Hubert
+says--"Quand on verra les nôtres ce sera une surprise," for they are
+enormous.
+
+What do you think I did as soon as they had all gone? I had rather an
+inspiration--I told the maids to bring me my blue court train (they have
+unpacked some of the boxes, the jewels are all right, and locked up in a
+coffre-fort in W.'s room, but can't find one of Delannoy's caisses; I
+suppose it will turn up though, as Pontécoulant says the compte was
+quite right when we arrived yesterday, all the boxes here). I then
+locked the door of the ballroom, stationed Pierson outside, with strict
+orders not to let anyone in, put on my train over my brown cloth dress,
+put Adelaïde and Mdme. Hubert at one end of the room, and whisked
+backwards and forwards, making them low curtseys (they were rather
+embarrassed). I have never worn a train in my life, as you know, and I
+wanted to see how it would go. It seems perfectly cut, and follows every
+movement, and doesn't get twisted around my ankles. The maids were quite
+satisfied, and told me it worked beautifully, particularly when I backed
+across the room. Madame Jaurès, wife of Admiral Jaurès, permanent French
+Ambassador to Russia, told me such hideous tales yesterday, when she
+came to see me, of women getting nervous and entangled in their trains
+when they backed away from the Emperor, that I thought I had better take
+some precautions. I indulged in those antics for about twenty minutes,
+then unlocked the door, released Pierson, and went upstairs to the
+lingerie to see how my unpacking was getting on. The missing trunk had
+just arrived, and my two women, with the little Russian maid, whose eyes
+opened wide when she saw the quantity of dresses being produced, and
+W.'s man were putting things to rights.
+
+The gentlemen got back to a late breakfast, much pleased with their
+reception. They were received in a small palace outside of Moscow,[4] as
+the Emperor makes his formal entrée into the town to-morrow only. They
+found the Emperor very amiable, talking quite easily, saying something
+to everyone. He had on the Grand Cordon of the Légion d'Honneur. They
+were all presented also to the Empress. W. said she was very gracious
+and charming; remembered quite well having seen us in Paris. We were
+presented to her by the Prince of Wales, Exhibition year. He said she
+recalled the Princess of Wales, not so tall, and had splendid eyes.
+
+[4] Petrofski.
+
+Benckendorff stayed to breakfast, and we told him his place would be
+always ready for him at breakfast and dinner. The hours of standing
+apparently will be something awful. About 3.30 Mdme. Jaurès came for
+me, and we went to see Lady Thornton, who is Doyenne of the Corps
+Diplomatique, but didn't find her. The Jaurès have just arrived
+themselves with all the Corps Diplomatique from Petersburg. They said
+the starting from there was frightfully mismanaged, not nearly carriages
+enough for the people and their luggage. The Ambassadors furious,
+railway officials distracted, a second train had to be prepared which
+made a long delay, and a general uproar. The only man who was quite
+quiet and happy was Mr. Mackay (Silver King from California). He formed
+part of the United States Mission, had his own private car attached to
+the train, in which were Mrs. Mackay and Mr. and Mrs. Hunt (U. S.
+Minister and his wife), and was absolutely independent.
+
+After leaving our cards we drove through the Tverskaya, the main street.
+There were quantities of people, and vehicles of every description, from
+the Ambassadors' carriages (all with small, black Russian horses, a
+Russian coachman in caftan and flat cap, and a gorgeous chasseur, all
+gold braid, and hat with feathers, beside him), to the most ordinary
+little drosky or fiacre. Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, passed us going
+very quickly with the regular Russian attelage--3 horses, one scarcely
+harnessed, galloping almost free on one side.
+
+All the houses are dressed with red and gold draperies, and immense
+tribunes put up all along the street, as the procession passes through
+it from one end to the other when the Emperor makes his formal entrance
+to-morrow. There are crowds of peasants and country people, all the men
+in flannel shirts tucked into their trousers, and the women with a
+handkerchief or little shawl over their heads. They don't look the least
+gay, or excited, or enthusiastic; on the contrary, it is generally a sad
+face, principally fair, and blue eyes. They stand, apparently a compact
+mass, in the middle of the street, close up to the carriages, which can
+scarcely get on--then comes a little detachment of Cossacks (most
+curious looking, quite wild, on very small horses, and enormous long
+lances), rides into the crowd and over them. They make no resistance,
+don't say anything, and close up again, as soon as the carriage
+passes--and so it goes on all day.
+
+I was quite excited when we drove into the Kremlin--it is enormous,
+really a city, surrounded by a great crenellated wall, with high towers
+at intervals, quantities of squares, courts, churches, palaces,
+barracks, terraces, etc. The view of the town from one of the terraces
+overlooking the river is splendid, but the great interest is the Kremlin
+itself. Numbers of gilt domes, pink and green roofs, and steeples. It
+seemed to me that pink predominated, or was it merely the rose flush of
+the sunset which gave a beautiful colour to everything. We saw of course
+the great bell, and the tower of Ivan the Terrible (from where they told
+us he surveyed massacres of hundreds of his soldiers), everywhere a
+hurrying, busy crowd (though always quiet).
+
+Thanks to our "Carte de Circulation" we pass everywhere, though stopped
+at every moment. We crossed, among other things, a procession of
+servants, and minor court officials, with quantities of silver dishes,
+flagons, etc., some great swell's dinner being sent from the Imperial
+Palace. We went from one great square to another, stopping at the Palace
+where all the fêtes are to be. There we found one or two Court officials
+whom Mdme. Jaurès knew, and they showed us as much as they could, but
+everybody is "sur les dents," and nothing ready; and in spite of all the
+precautions one feels that there is a strong undercurrent of nervousness.
+We went to the Church de l'Assomption, where the Coronation is to take
+place. There too we found officials, who showed us our places, and exactly
+where the Court would be. The church is small, with a great deal of gilding
+and painting. All the tribunes are ready, and what we shall feel like when
+the ceremony is over I am sure I don't know. It will last about three hours
+and a half, and we stand all the time. There is not a vestige of a seat in
+the Tribune Diplomatique--merely a sort of rail or "barre d'appui" where
+one can lean back a little.
+
+We lingered a little on the terrace overlooking the river where there is
+a fine view of the town, and came out by the Porte St. Sauveur, where
+everyone, Emperor and peasant, uncovers. I was glad to get home and rest
+a little before dinner, but I have had a delightful afternoon.
+
+I will finish this evening, as the bag goes to-morrow. We had a pleasant
+dinner, our personnel only, and Colonel Benckendorff, who told us all we
+had to do these days. The day of the Coronation we meet at the German
+Embassy (General Schweinitz, who married Anna Jay, is Doyen of the Corps
+Diplomatique), and go all together to the Kremlin. The hour of
+rendezvous is 8 there, and as it is quite far off, and the gala
+carriages go on a walk, we must leave here at 7, and get up at Heaven
+knows what hour. What do you think we will look like in full Court dress
+at that hour in the morning? Our dinner was very good--wines, fruit,
+etc. W. complimented Lhermite.
+
+To-morrow we start at 11 for the Palace of Prince Dolgourouky, Governor
+of Moscow, from where we see the Emperor pass on his way to the Kremlin.
+It is not far away, but the streets are so barricaded and shut up that
+we must make a long détour. The most stringent measures are taken, all
+windows closed, no canes nor umbrellas allowed, and a triple line of
+troops all along the route. The maids are much excited. They have places
+in one of the Tribunes, and M. Lhermite is going to escort them. In some
+marvellous way they have been able to communicate with the Russian
+maids, and have given me various pieces of information. I have left the
+gentlemen all smoking in the serre, except W., who retired to his own
+quarters, as he had some despatches to write. He has had a long talk
+with Jaurès this afternoon, and has also seen Sir Edward Thornton,
+British Ambassador. The house is quite quiet--the court-yard asleep, as
+no carriages or horses have been out to-night. We have two ordinary
+Russian landaus, with those fast little horses, for our every-day
+outings, as the big coupé d'Orsay only goes out on state occasions.
+
+The detective has made his report, and says the Nihilists will do
+nothing to-morrow--_perhaps_ the night of the gala at the Opéra. It is
+curious to live in such a highly charged atmosphere, and yet I am less
+nervous--I wonder why--the excitement I suppose of the whole thing.
+Well, Good-night, Dear; I would say it in Russian if I could, but so far
+all I have learnt is "Tchai," which means tea, and "Karosch," which
+seems to be an exclamation of delighted admiration. The little maid says
+it every time I appear in a new garment.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France à Moscou#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Mardi, May 22d, 1883.
+
+How shall I ever begin to describe to you, Dear, the wonderful life we
+are leading. Everything is unlike anything I have ever seen. I suppose
+it is the beginning of the real far-off East. This morning I am sitting
+at the window reading and writing, and looking out into the court-yard,
+which is a never-failing interest--such quantities of people always
+there. The first thing I hear in the morning is Pontécoulant's voice. He
+is there every day at eight o'clock, conferring with Leroy and Hubert,
+examining the horses and carriages, deciding which ones are to be used,
+and giving orders for the day.
+
+Then arrive the two Russian landaus which go all day, and very different
+they look from our beautiful equipages and big important servants. Then
+comes Lhermite, rattling off, in a low pony cart, with the boy from the
+Consulate along-side of him. He goes to market every day, and nearly has
+a fit because he can't talk himself, and he knows they are all lying,
+and stealing, and imposing upon him generally. In one corner there is a
+group of little Russian horses tied to the stable doors, with Russian
+soldiers fussing over them. They have been sent from one of the cavalry
+barracks for the gentlemen to ride.
+
+In every direction men are cleaning carriages, saddles, harness,
+liveries; and with such little noise--they are extraordinarily quiet.
+
+    May 22d, 5.30
+
+We have just got back from the Governor's palace; and to-night the
+Emperor is safe in the Kremlin.
+
+It was a marvellous day. We started (the whole Mission) at 10.30 this
+morning, W. and I alone in the d'Orsay, which looked very handsome. It
+is dark blue with white stripes, like all our carriages, and lined with
+blue satin of rather a lighter shade. The men were in demi-gala, blue
+plush breeches, white silk stockings, and high hats (not tricornes),
+with silver bands and cords. Thornton, the English coachman, looked very
+smart, and handled his big black horses perfectly. The gentlemen told us
+he used very strong language when he got back to the stables over the
+abomination of the Moscow pavement. We were preceded as usual by Richard
+and Benckendorff in a light carriage. I wore one of Philippe's dresses,
+brown gauze embroidered in velvet flowers, all the front écru lace, and
+an ecru straw bonnet, with a vieux rose velvet crown.
+
+I was much amused while I was dressing to hear various members of the
+party in the lingerie, "Madame, voulez-vous me coudre un bouton," "les
+plumes de mon chapeau ne tiennent pas," etc., even Thornton came in to
+have his lace cravate tied. We were a long time getting to Prince
+Dolgourouky's palace; not that it is far away, but the streets are
+barricaded in every direction, however I didn't mind--the crowd was so
+interesting, packed tight; they had been standing for hours, they told
+us, such pale, patient faces, but so _un_joyous; no jokes, nor bits of
+songs, nor good-natured scuffling; so unlike our Paris crowd on a great
+fête day, laughing and chaffing, and commenting freely on everything;
+and certainly very much unlike the American-Irish crowd at home in New
+York, on the 4th of July or St. Patrick's day. I remember quite well
+putting boxes of fire-crackers in a tin pail to frighten the horses, and
+throwing numerous little petards under people's feet, but no one seemed
+to mind. Fancy the effect of a pailful of fire-crackers exploding in any
+part of Moscow to-day. The tribunes covered with red cloth, or red and
+gold, crammed; and armies of soldiers, mounted and on foot, in every
+direction; and yet we were only in the side streets. The real crowd was
+in the Tverskaya where the cortége was to pass.
+
+When we finally arrived we were received by the Governor's two nieces,
+Madame Mansouroff and Princess Obolenski. The Prince, like all the other
+Russian noblemen, took part in the cortége. All our colleagues were
+there, but the Duc de Montpensier was the only special envoy. All the
+other foreign Princes were riding with the Emperor's suite. It was
+almost a female gathering, though of course all the men of the Corps
+Diplomatique were there. We waited some little time in the large
+drawing-room, where many presentations were made; and then had a very
+handsome breakfast, people talking easily, but the Russians visibly
+nervous and preoccupied. As soon as it was over we went out on the
+balconies, where we remained until the cortége had passed. They brought
+us tea at intervals, but I never stirred from my chair until the end.
+
+It was a beautiful sight as we looked down--as far as one could see,
+right and left, flags, draperies, principally red and gold, green
+wreaths, flowers and uniforms--the crowd of people well kept back behind
+a triple row of soldiers, the middle of the street perfectly clear,
+always a distant sound of bells, trumpets, and music. A salute of cannon
+was to let us know when the Emperor left Petrofski, the small palace
+just outside the walls where he has been all these days. As the time
+drew near one felt the anxiety of the Russians, and when the first coup
+sounded, all of them in the Palace and in the street crossed themselves.
+As the procession drew near the tension was intense. The Governor's
+Palace is about half way between the gate by which the Emperor entered
+and the Kremlin. He had all that long street to follow at a foot's pace.
+As soon as he entered the Kremlin another cannon would tell his people
+he was safe inside.
+
+At last the head of the gorgeous procession appeared. It was
+magnificent, but I can't begin to tell you the details. I don't even
+remember all I saw, but you will read it all in the papers, as of course
+all their correspondents are here. There were quantities of troops of
+all descriptions, the splendid chevaliers-gardes looked very imposing
+with their white tunics and silver cuirasses; both horses and men
+enormous. What I liked best were the red Cossacks (even their long
+lances red). They look perfectly wild and uncivilized and their little
+horses equally so, prancing and plunging all the time.
+
+The most interesting thing to me was the deputations from all the
+provinces of this vast Empire--Kirghis, Moguls, Tartars, Kalmucks, etc.
+There was a magnificent chief from the Caucase, all in white, with
+jewelled sword and high cap (even from where we were, so high above the
+crowd, we saw the flash of the diamonds); the Khan of Khiva, and the
+Emir of Bokhara, both with high fur caps, also with jewels on cap and
+belt. A young fellow, cousin I think of Prince Dolgourouky, came and
+stood near me, and told me as well as he could who the most important
+people were. Bells going all the time (and the Moscow bells have a deep,
+beautiful sound), music, the steady tramp of soldiers, and the curious,
+dull noise of a great crowd of people.
+
+Then a break in the troops, and a long procession of gala court
+carriages passed, with six horses and six runners, a man to each horse,
+with all the grands-maitres and high officials of the Court, each man
+covered with gold lace and embroidery, and holding his staff of office,
+white with a jewel at the top. After that more troops, the Emperor's
+body-guard, and then the Emperor himself. He was in full uniform, riding
+quite alone in front on his little white horse which he had ridden in
+the Turkish campaign. He looked quite composed and smiling, not a trace
+of nervousness (perhaps a little pale), returned all the salutations
+most graciously, and looked up, bowed and smiled to our balcony. A
+little distance behind him rode his two sons, and close up to him on
+the left rode the Duke of Edinburgh in red; any bomb thrown at the
+Emperor must have killed the English Prince.
+
+Then followed a long suite of Princes--some of their uniforms, Austrian,
+Greek, and Montenegrian standing out well. From that moment there was
+almost silence on the balcony; as the Emperor disappeared again all
+crossed themselves, and everyone waited for the welcome sound from the
+Kremlin.
+
+After a long interval, always troops passing, came the Empress. She was
+with her daughter, the little Grand Duchess Xenia, both in Russian
+dress. The carriage was shut, a coupé, but half glass, so we saw them
+perfectly, and the high head-dress (Kakoshnik) and white veil, spangled
+with silver was very becoming. The carriage was very handsome, all gold
+and paintings; six white horses led, and running footmen. The Empress
+and her daughter were seated side by side, and on a curious sort of
+_outside_ seat, on one side of the coupé, was a page, dressed in red and
+yellow, a sort of cloth of gold, with high feathers in his cap. The
+Empress looked grave and very pale, but she smiled and bowed all the
+time. It must have been an awful day for her, for she was so far behind
+the Emperor, and such masses of troops in between, that he might have
+been assassinated easily, she knowing nothing of it.
+
+There was again a great sound of bells and music when the Empress
+passed, all the people crossing themselves, but the great interest of
+course was far ahead with the Emperor. A great procession of Court
+carriages followed with all the Princesses, Grandes-Maîtresses, etc.,
+and endless troops still, but no one paid much attention; every ear was
+strained to hear the first sound from the Kremlin. When the cannon
+boomed out the effect was indescribable. All the Russians embraced each
+other, some with tears running down their cheeks, everybody shook hands
+with everybody, and for a moment the emotion was contagious--I felt
+rather a choke in my throat. The extraordinary reaction showed what the
+tension had been.
+
+After rather a whirl of felicitations we went into the drawing-room for
+a few minutes, had tea (of course), and I talked to some of the people
+whom I had not seen before. Montpensier came up, and was very civil and
+nice. He is here as a Spanish Prince. He told me he had been
+frightfully nervous for the Emperor. They all knew that so many
+Nihilists were about--he added, "Il était superbe, leur Empereur, si
+crâne!"
+
+We had to wait a few moments for the carriage and got home about 5,
+having been standing a long time. We were almost as long getting back to
+the Embassy as we were coming. There was a dense crowd everywhere, and
+the same little detachments of Cossacks galloping hard into the midst of
+the people, and apparently doing no harm to anyone.
+
+I will finish now before going to bed--happily all our dissipations
+finish early. We dined quietly with only our own Embassy and
+Benckendorff, and then drove about for an hour or so looking at the
+illuminations, which were not very wonderful. We met all our colleagues
+doing the same thing. W. has just had his report from the detective. He
+said all the Nihilists were scattered along the route to-day, but
+evidently had no intention of doing anything. It seems curious they
+should be allowed to remain, as of course the Russian police know them
+quite as well as our man does.
+
+I have just had a notice that the Empress will receive me to-morrow. I
+will try and write a few lines always late before going to bed, and
+while the whole thing is still fresh in my memory. If this letter is
+slightly incoherent it is because I have had so many interruptions.
+The maids can hardly undress me, they are so anxious to tell me all they
+have seen. It certainly was a magnificent sight to-day, and the fears
+for the Emperor gave such a dramatic note to the whole thing. My eyes
+are rather tired, looking so hard, I suppose.
+
+    Wednesday, May 23d.
+
+Well, Dear, I have had my audience. It was most interesting. I started
+at 11 o'clock in the gala carriage, Hubert driving me, as he wanted to
+go once to the Kremlin with the carriage before the day of the
+Coronation. It seems there is a slight rise in the road just as one gets
+to the gate, which is also narrow. I wore the blue brocade with bunches
+of cherries, the front of moussé velvet, and a light blue crêpe bonnet,
+neither gloves nor veil. Benckendorff and Richard, as "officer de
+service," went ahead in a small carriage. Benckendorff said I must have
+one of my own Embassy, and Richard thought it would amuse him to come.
+W. rather demurred--was afraid we wouldn't be serious enough, but we
+promised him to be absolutely dignes. Do you remember at the first
+official reception at the instruction Publique he never would let you
+and Pauline stand behind me--he was afraid we would make unseemly jokes,
+or laugh at some of the dresses.
+
+Our progress to the Kremlin was slow. The carriage is heavy, goes always
+at a foot's pace, and has a swinging motion which is very disagreeable.
+I felt rather shy, sitting up there alone, as of course there is a great
+deal of glass, so that I was much "en évidence." Everybody looked, and
+the people in the street crowded close up to the carriage. We found
+grand preparations when we got to the Palace--the great staircase
+covered with a red cloth, and every variety of chamberlain, page, usher,
+and officer on the stairs and at the door. Benckendorff and Richard
+helped me out of my carriage, and Richard's impulse was to give me his
+arm to go upstairs, but he was waved back imperatively, and a
+magnificent gentleman in a velvet coat, all lace and embroidery,
+advanced, and conducted me up the grand staircase, always a little
+behind me. I passed through a hedge of uniforms and costumes. When we
+came to the landing where there was a piquet of soldiers my attendant
+said--"La France," and they presented arms.
+
+At the top of the staircase, at the door of the first of a long enfilade
+of salons, I was handed over, with a very low bow, from my first
+gentleman to another of the same description, equally all gold lace, and
+embroidery; and so I passed through all the rooms, always meeting a new
+chamberlain in each one. The rooms are large and high, with vaulted
+roofs like a cathedral, little or no furniture (I believe the Russian
+Court never sits down except at meals). We made a halt in one of the
+salons, where we found several maids of honour of the Empress, who were
+presented to me. They were all dressed much alike in long, light
+dresses, and wore their badge--the Empress's chiffre in diamonds on a
+blue ribbon. While I was talking to them a procession of diplomats and
+special envoys passed through the room. They had just been received by
+the Empress.
+
+Presently appeared Prince Galitzin--Grand Maître des Cérémonies, attired
+in red velvet and lace, and embroidery, who said, "Sa Majesté sera
+bientôt prête." I continued my progress with the same ceremonial, passed
+through the salle du trône, which is handsome, white and gold; and came
+to a standstill in the next salon, evidently the ante-chamber of the
+room where I was to be received, as the two colossal negroes who always
+accompany the Emperor and Empress were standing at the door. They were
+dressed in a sort of Asiatic costume, cashmeres, turbans, scimitars,
+etc. I was received by the Princess Kotchoubey and Count Pahlen, Arch
+Grand Maître des Cérémonies. The Princess K. is the mother of Princess
+Lise Troubetzkoi (whom you will remember in Paris as having a salon the
+first days of the Republic where political men of all opinions
+assembled--Thiers was her great friend). She was a little old lady,
+dressed entirely in white, with a jewel low on her forehead. Count
+Pahlen was dressed in blue velvet and embroidery, and carried his staff
+of office, white, with a large sapphire on the top.
+
+We talked a few minutes, when apparently there came a signal from the
+Empress. The doors flew open, and the Princess advanced to the
+threshold, making a beautiful curtsey (I am sure mine was not half so
+good), she seemed to go straight down to the ground, said--"J'ai
+l'honneur d'annoncer l'Ambassadrice de France." She then withdrew to one
+side--I made a curtsey at the door, which was instantly shut, another, a
+little farther on (the regulation is 3), but hadn't time for my third,
+as the Empress, who was standing in the middle of the room, advanced a
+few steps, shook hands and begged me to sit down. I hadn't seen her for
+some years, since she came to Paris with her husband, then Grand Duke
+Héritier (his father was still alive), and I didn't find her changed.
+She recalls the Princess of Wales, but is not so tall; has beautiful
+dark eyes, and a very gracious manner. She was dressed almost as I was,
+but in a different color, yellow brocade with bunches of plums, splendid
+lace in front, and a beautiful pearl necklace, three rows of large
+stones (my one row of fairly large ones was nowhere). I think I stayed
+about 20 minutes.
+
+We talked easily enough. She said the long day yesterday had been very
+fatiguing, the going at a foot's pace all that long distance with the
+peculiar swinging motion of the heavy gala carriage had tired her very
+much; also the constant bowing right and left, and the quantities of
+flags and draperies waving under her eyes. She didn't say anything about
+being nervous, so of course I didn't. She gave me the impression of
+having extraordinary self-control. I asked her what the little Grand
+Duchess thought of it all. She said that she really didn't know--that
+she didn't speak, but looked at everything and bowed to all the people
+exactly as she did.
+
+She said the day of the sacre would be very long and tiring,
+particularly beginning so early in the morning; that she was very
+matinale, quite accustomed to getting up early--was I? "Fairly--but I
+hadn't often been up and dressed in full dress and diamonds at seven in
+the morning." "You would prefer a ceremony by candle-light." "I think we
+should all look better at 9 o'clock in the evening." She laughed, and
+then we talked a little; Paris, chiffons, etc. She said some of her
+dresses had come from Philippe. We talked a little about Moscow and the
+Kremlin. She asked me what I had seen. When I spoke of the church and
+the tribunes for the Corps Diplomatique with _no_ seats, and a very long
+ceremony, she was quite indifferent; evidently didn't think it was of
+the slightest consequence whether we were tired or not; and I don't
+suppose it is.
+
+When she congédied me the door flew open (she evidently had a bell under
+her chair which she touched with her feet); she shook hands, and walked
+immediately to a door at the other end of the room; so I didn't have to
+back out all the way. Princess Kotchoubey and Count Pahlen were waiting
+for me. The Princess said, "Sa Majesté vous a gardé bien longtemps,
+Madame l'Ambassadrice. J'espère que vous avez été contente." Pahlen also
+made me a polite phrase. They both accompanied me across the room, and
+then the door opened, and another chamberlain took possession of me.
+Just as we got to the door the Princess was saying something about her
+daughter "devenue absolument une Parisienne," when it opened; she
+stopped short in the middle of her phrase, and made me a little
+curtsey--her function was over once I passed into the other room. It was
+too funny.
+
+I was conducted through all the rooms and down the great staircase with
+the same ceremony. I found Richard waiting in one of the big rooms, with
+the "Dames du portrait," but this time he didn't venture to offer his
+arm to the Ambassadress, and followed with Benckendorff at a respectful
+distance.
+
+I found my carriage surrounded by an admiring crowd. The horses are
+handsome and enormous, particularly here where the race is small, also
+the French gala liveries are unlike anything else. Hubert, my own
+coachman, sits up so straight and pompous on his box, and looks so
+correct I hardly know him. The movement of the gala carriage is
+something awful, makes me really ill.
+
+    May 23d, 10 o'clock.
+
+We have had a quiet evening--some of the gentlemen have gone off to hear
+the famous Bohémiennes in one of the public gardens. They have been
+leaving cards all day on the special envoys, Princes, etc. W. and
+Pontécoulant are having a conference, and I have got into my tea-gown,
+and am reading a little, writing a little, and being generally lazy. W.
+and I also did a round of visits this afternoon.
+
+As naturally none of our servants know either a word of Russian, or the
+streets of Moscow, we took with us the little polygot youth from the
+Consulate, who knows equally well French, Russian, and German. We gave
+him our list, and he went ahead in a drosky.
+
+We found no one but the Princess Obolenski, who spoke at once about the
+Emperor's entrée; said no one could imagine the relief it was to all of
+them to know that he was actually safe in the Kremlin. They had
+evidently all dreaded that day, and of course notwithstanding all the
+precautions a bomb _could_ have been thrown. The thrower, par exemple,
+would have been torn to pieces by the crowd; but what makes the strength
+of the Nihilists is that they all count their lives as nothing in what
+they consider the great cause.
+
+How hideous the life of the Emperor and the Empress must be. They say
+they find letters on their tables, in their carriages, coming from no
+one knows where, telling them of all the horrors in store for them and
+their children.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France, à Moscou#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Thursday, 24 Mai, 1883.
+
+I am having a quiet morning. We have no particular function to-day.
+Madame Jaurès is coming to get me after breakfast, and we are going to
+do a little sightseeing. The first thing I hear in the morning always is
+Pontécoulant's voice in the court talking to Leroy and Hubert, and
+examining the horses. The pair we had in the gala carriage yesterday
+went beautifully. Hubert was rather nervous, as there is a steep little
+bit just as one passes through the gates of the Kremlin--it is also
+narrow, and those big, unwieldy carriages are not easily handled. The
+pavement is so rough that I was actually a little sick yesterday after I
+came in.
+
+I was called off by a visit from Prince Orloff (Russian Ambassador in
+France). He comes almost every day, and is much interested in all our
+doings--said the carriage and general style of everything was much
+admired yesterday. About two Madame Jaurès came, and we started off
+sight-seeing. The admiral, Jaurès, and one or two of the young men met
+us at the Kremlin, and we went over the two palaces--new and old. The
+old one is most curious; small, dark, low rooms, vaulted ceilings, all
+most elaborately ornamented in Byzantine style; a small steep, twisting
+staircase; large porcelain stoves, and absolutely uncomfortable. We saw
+the dining-room where the Emperor and Empress will dine in state the day
+of the Coronation. The new palace is quite different--high, light, large
+rooms, white, which must look beautiful at night lighted by thousands of
+wax candles. In the great ballroom the two Throne chairs are on a gold
+dais with great curtains of purple velvet and ermine--very royal
+looking.
+
+(I wonder if the sight of all this splendour will destroy my mental
+equilibrium--I assure you I felt rather like a queen myself yesterday,
+seated up alone in the great gala carriage, with everybody bowing and
+gaping.) There is a splendid view over the Kremlin, the river and the
+town from all the palace windows. We went again to the church of the
+Assomption, where we found Count Pahlen superintending. He showed us
+some of the famous paintings--among others a Madonna with a _black_
+face, a splendid diamond necklace, and large sapphires and emeralds
+disposed about her person. There are jewels about everywhere; on
+pictures, brackets, etc. Pahlen told me, when I was noticing them, that
+the Russian Court was famous for coloured stones, particularly emeralds
+and sapphires--told me to notice the Grand Duchess Constantine's
+emeralds, and the Empress's sapphires. I will, if ever I get time to go
+into details, but everything is on such an enormous scale here.
+
+He also asked me if I was accustomed to _standing_ three or four hours,
+and if not he would suggest a _pliant_"dissimulé sous les plis de la
+traine," and showed me with pride the rails, covered with red velvet, in
+our tribune, which he had had put there so we should be comfortable! It
+will really be an awful day, particularly as we have to begin it so
+early, but I suppose we shan't die of it.
+
+I came back about 4, changed my dress for something more élegant (the
+blue silk with long blue redingote and white lace), and started off
+again in the d'Orsay for some visits (the little boy in the drosky going
+in front). I found the Princess Radziwill in two small rooms (she
+received me in her bedroom), all she could find for herself and her
+husband in Moscow--and that at an awful price (and she is Russian born).
+I also found Countess Pahlen, wife of the Grand Master, who was very
+smiling, and suggested that we should have an evening reception, which
+would be much appreciated. Of course we shall be delighted, and had even
+thought of a ball, but all those things had been settled in Russia
+before we left Paris. The Russian Court wished to have _one_ ball only,
+as the Coronation functions were numerous and fatiguing, and that is to
+be at General Schweinitz's (Doyen of the Corps Diplomatique).
+
+After leaving Countess Pahlen I went again to the Kremlin, the
+d'Orsay always exciting much attention. I had the greatest difficulty in
+finding out the Duchesse d'Edimbourg, for whom I had to write myself
+down, and could find no servant who spoke either German, French, or
+English. The crowd and confusion was something awful; apparently the
+whole of Moscow was going wherever I was--Ambassadors, Generals,
+Chamberlains, maids-of-honour, servants with tea, crowding in all the
+corridors. You never saw such a sight, and just as many more in the
+court-yards--carriages, soldiers, work-people, carpenters, bales of
+stuffs, and planks for stands, and all in that beautiful cadre--the old
+gray walls looked so soft, and the marvellous effects of colour
+everywhere. I was well shaken up, such a pavement. I met the Duc
+de Montpensier at every turn, sight-seeing too. We had a quiet dinner,
+the personnel only with Benckendorff. The gentlemen had been going all
+around too all the afternoon leaving cards. They all say the pavement
+is most trying.
+
+W. and Pontécoulant have come in late as usual for a last little talk. I
+told them what Countess Pahlen had said about an evening reception. W.
+had had the same idea. I think the house is large enough--the ballroom
+ought to light well, all white with yellow satin furniture. We must have
+a talk with Lhermite about flowers; he says there are none here, his
+come from Paris.
+
+    Friday, 25th.
+
+The men of the Embassy went off early, as they had no end of audiences
+with all the Grand Dukes; uncles and brothers of the Emperor. I walked
+about a little with Adelaïde, but I didn't find that very pleasant. It
+is curious I never see a lady of any kind walking, and we always attract
+attention. It is very warm, the sun really powerful. I breakfasted alone
+in the big dining-room, an elaborate meal, one maître d'hôtel and two
+tall footmen waiting upon me--I was rather sorry I hadn't asked for tea
+and cold chicken in my dressing-room.
+
+At 3.30 the gentlemen all reappeared, put on their Austrian decorations,
+and we started for the reception of the Arch Duke and Arch Duchess
+Albert of Austria. We found quantities of people, as all the Corps
+Diplomatique had been convoked. W. and I went as usual in the d'Orsay. I
+wore my crème voile with lace and embroidery, straw bonnet with crème
+feathers, lined with dark blue velvet. We waited some little time in a
+large hall or anteroom where was Count Wolkenstein, Austrian Ambassador,
+who presented all the suite of the Arch Duke. Then appeared the Arch
+Duke alone--said his wife was coming in a few moments. We had known him
+in Paris--he had dined with us at the Quai d'Orsay when W. was Foreign
+Minister, our Exhibition year. He is a tall, distinguished looking man.
+It was when he was dining at the Elysée one night with Maréchal MacMahon
+that such a funny contre-temps occurred. Their dinners were always very
+good and soignés, but evidently they had not thought about the names of
+the dishes, and when we were well on with the dinner we suddenly
+realized that something was wrong. My neighbour said to me "Look at your
+menu," and what did I see--"Glace à la Magenta"--"Gateau Solférino," and
+I forget the third thing--all battles where the Austrians had been
+beaten. I spoke to one of the household about it afterwards who said
+"J'ai froid dans le dos en pensant à ce que le Maréchal me dira." It
+seems that when he was angry the Maréchal didn't mince matters, and used
+most _emphatic_ expressions. You can imagine how carefully we studied
+the menu of our dinner which came two days after--"Glace à la Régence,"
+"Gâteau Moka," etc., nothing compromising.
+
+While the Arch Duke was talking there was suddenly a move, and he went
+to meet the Arch Duchess who came in, crossed the room quickly, and
+asked us to follow. We did, into a smaller room, W. and I alone. She is
+very handsome, younger than he is, tall and slight, dressed in a black
+dress with a great deal of lace, a very long train, a handsome pearl
+necklace, and a high comb of diamonds. She said she would like to make a
+stay in Paris. After they had congédied us W. asked if he might present
+the rest of the Mission, so I returned to the large salon and saw
+various people to talk to, including Count Apponyi, whom I had known in
+Paris, where his father was Ambassador for years.
+
+We dined at home and went in the evening to a reception at M. de
+Giers'--Foreign Minister. The rooms were not large, and there were a
+great many people, I should think more foreigners and diplomatists than
+Russians. Princess Kotchoubey and Countess Pahlen did the honours.
+Quantities of people were presented to me--I shall never remember their
+names or their faces. I wore fraise-écrasé velvet, the front covered
+with white "point à l'aiguille." General Wolseley, who is here with the
+Duke of Edinburgh, was presented. He is not at all the real British
+type, small and dark, but very bright eyes. I also had quite a talk with
+my Dutch friend Schimmelpenninck, who assured me my toilettes were très
+réussies, particularly the white one, this afternoon. I had quite a talk
+too with the Hunts, who are very nice. Both are tall and fine-looking,
+she always very well dressed. The U.S. Mission is very distinguished--they
+have Mr. and Mrs. Mackay with them, both very natural and quiet; she of
+course has splendid jewels (they tell me her sapphires are beautiful),
+but she wears them quite simply, without any ostentation. There is also
+Admiral Baldwin, who has his ship at Cronstadt, and two charming young
+aides-de-camp, Rogers and Paul.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+    Saturday, May 26, 1883.
+
+Well, Dear, I am just alive, but nothing more, having performed 5 Grand
+Duchesses. The gentlemen all went off in full uniform at 11 to begin
+their audiences. I followed later alone (they always go en bande) with
+Richard going in the small carriage in front as officier de service
+(which amuses us both perfectly). I wore the white soft silk with
+Valenciennes that you liked, and the flower hat. Benckendorff
+complimented me on my toilette. It was a long affair getting to our
+different Princesses. They are all lodged in the Kremlin, and the
+various palaces connect with all sorts of passages and staircases, but
+the corridors are narrow and the block something awful. My first
+audience was with the Grand Duchess Michel. Her husband is an uncle of
+the Emperor, and was for a long time Governor of the Caucasus. When we
+finally got to the door of the apartments I was received by 2
+Chamberlains (all gold and embroidery), who never left me until they
+deposited me in the carriage at 5 o'clock--I had started at 1.30. The
+ceremonial was always exactly the same, one or two ladies-in-waiting
+were in the room communicating with the one in which the Grand
+Duchess was waiting. They announced "L'Ambassadrice de France," I got
+through as many of my three regulation curtseys as I could--I never
+really had time to make the third, as they all advanced a few steps and
+shook hands. The Grand Duchess Michel is a Baden Princess, tall, slight,
+very intelligent, simply dressed in black velvet, and of course a pearl
+necklace. She spoke to me in English, French, and German, but the
+conversation was mostly in French. She seemed well up in French
+literature, and asked me what I thought of Zola's "L'Assommoir," was
+really surprised when I said I hadn't read it, nor in fact scarcely
+anything he wrote. She considered it a marvel, and couldn't understand
+any French woman not reading every word that came from "un des plus
+puissants cerveaux du siècle." She knew too all the pieces de théâtre,
+and when I expressed surprise that she had had time to read so much,
+said her life in the Caucasus was so lonely--no society of any kind,
+and no resources outside of her own palace. I should think she was a
+maïtresse femme.
+
+After leaving her I was taken in hand again by my two chamberlains, and
+walked some distance across one or two courts, always meeting more
+chamberlains escorting colleagues, principally men, all in uniform and
+orders, doing the same thing, and trying to get on as fast as they
+could. My next visit was to the Grand Duchess Constantine. When we got
+to the anteroom and small salon we found them full of gentlemen, who
+proved to be our Mission, who had arrived a few minutes before. That
+made a slight change of programme, as the Grand Duke decided to receive
+W. and me together with the Duchess--accordingly we were received first,
+alone, in a small room. The Grand Duke was standing close to the door;
+the Grand Duchess in the centre of the room. He is a sailor, looks very
+intelligent. She has been very handsome, carries herself beautifully,
+and has a splendid figure. He was in uniform--she in red velvet (she
+_didn't_ have on her emeralds--I suppose we shall see them all
+to-morrow). They both talked very easily about all sorts of things;
+Greece of course and the Schuylers, of whom she spoke very warmly. Her
+daughter is the Queen of Greece--I hope we shall see her, as I have
+heard Gert talk so much about her. The Grand Duchess said she was tired
+already, and the Ceremonies haven't begun yet. She had received
+yesterday 100 ladies of Moscow. They came in groups of 10, and she had
+to find something to say to each one.
+
+As soon as the audience was over W. asked permission, as usual, to
+present the rest of the Mission. I remained in the outer salon talking
+to the ladies-in-waiting. The apartment is high, with a splendid view
+over Moscow. They pointed me out several churches and curious
+roofs--were much interested in all my visits and my clothes, supposed I
+had quantities of trunks.
+
+After that I departed again alone, and saw the Grand Duchess Catherine,
+who was very amiable, but kept me a few minutes only, as she had so many
+people to receive. Then I took another long walk, and up several flights
+of narrow, turning stairs (the chamberlains in front and Richard behind)
+to the Duchesse d'Oldenburg. The Belgian Mission was being received, so
+I waited in the outer salon, and again W. and the gentlemen arrived, and
+he and I were received together. Evidently they like it better when we
+can go together, as it saves time for them--and if we are tired, think
+what they must be. I went off again alone, and was received by the Grand
+Duchess Wladimir, who is charming--a German Princess. She is young, a
+pretty figure, very well dressed in white. She looked rather delicate,
+having just got over a rather bad attack of measles. She dreads the
+fatigue very much to-morrow, and had asked the Empress if she might have
+a folding-chair, a pliant of some kind, but her "demande n'a pas été
+accueillie favorablement. L'Imperatrice elle-même sera debout tout le
+temps. Il faudrait absolument que nous fassions comme elle." I didn't
+mention my pliant, as I am quite sure no one will notice to-morrow
+anything _I_ do.
+
+That finished my audience, and I had been standing or walking since I
+left the Embassy, so I was glad to find the carriage, which was by no
+means easy. There were quantities at the Kremlin, and as we never by any
+chance came out at the same door by which we went in, and the coachman
+was told to follow, he naturally had some difficulty in getting it. Also
+it is raining hard, which complicates matters. There are carpets down to
+the doors, but so many people have passed over them that they are just
+as wet and muddy as the streets. We met all the rest of the Mission at
+the Embassy door, and then there was a general détente, the men all
+calling for their servants to get them out of their uniforms, and to
+bring beer and cigars.
+
+W. came in to tea. He looked really done up--he had been at it steadily
+since 12. There are so many Princes and Grand Dukes without any wives. I
+am writing in bits, but will finish as usual the last thing. We have had
+a small dinner--the other French Embassy (permanent), Lagrené, Consul,
+and Orloff. Benckendorff of course. They all went away early, as our day
+to-morrow is an awful one.
+
+It is pouring still, and we are rather melancholy at the thought of our
+gala carriages, and blue and silver liveries in a heavy rain. Just
+before dinner I had a visit from Philippe, and he made various essais
+with my diadem and feathers. He is to be here at six to-morrow morning
+to coiffer me. He also requested that he might see my dress so as to
+make his coiffure "harmoniser avec l'ensemble." I wanted to see it too,
+so as to be sure that everything was right, and the flowers well sewn
+on. It is now reposing on one of the big arm-chairs in the
+dressing-room, covered up with a sheet.
+
+My eyes are shutting of themselves, so I will stop. Please send all my
+letters on to America, as I never can write _two_ accounts of our life
+here.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France à Moscou#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Dimanche, 27 Mai, 1883.
+
+I am perfectly exhausted, Dear, after the most beautiful, bewildering,
+exhausting day I have ever gone through. We got home at 4.30. I rested a
+little, had tea as usual in my boudoir with W. and Richard, and will
+write as much as I can while I am still under the impression of all I
+have seen.
+
+I was up at 5.30, as we had to leave here at 7. Philippe was very
+punctual--put on diadem and feathers very well. Happily it was all blue,
+rather dark (as my dress too was blue), and he remarked pleasantly, to
+put me at my ease I think, and make me feel as comfortable as I could at
+that hour of the morning, "Le bleu c'est le fard de Madame." He couldn't
+understand that I wouldn't let him maquiller my face--said all the
+Princesses were painted--but I really couldn't go that.
+
+When I appeared in the drawing-room, the men of the Embassy were very
+complimentary about my dress. We went in our three carriages (I had the
+white moiré cloak, trimmed with dark feathers over me), W. and I and
+Pontécoulant in the first gala carriage driven by Leroy (I wish you
+could have seen him, as much taken up with _his dress_ as I was with
+mine). He stood giving directions to a quantity of understrappers, but
+never touching harness, nor even whip, until we appeared, then got on
+his box as we got into the carriage, settled himself in a fine pose, and
+we started.
+
+The second gala carriage driven by Hubert (who looked very well) came
+next, and then the d'Orsay. It really was a very pretty cortége, and we
+were much looked at and admired, as we drove very slowly, and jolting
+very much, to the German Embassy. All our colleagues came up about the
+same time. Some of the gala carriages were good, the Austrian, but ours
+out and out the best. No one else had three.
+
+We assembled in one of the large rooms of the palace, and then walked
+through numerous rooms, galleries, and finally through an open court,
+entirely covered with a red carpet, and lined with soldiers and
+officers--every description of uniform. The Chevalier-Gardes,
+magnificent in their white tunics, silver cuirasses and helmets.
+Happily it was fine--I don't know what we should have done in the rain,
+and also so early in the morning the sun was not gênant (as it was later
+in the day). The long procession, the men in uniform and decorations;
+the women in full dress, feathers and diadems, was most effective.
+
+I left my cloak in the carriage, and didn't feel chilly, but some of the
+women were uncomfortable, and had little lace and fur tippets. We filed
+into the church (which is small), and into the Diplomatic Tribune, and
+settled ourselves quite easily--there was plenty of room. The effect
+inside was dazzling: tapers, flowers, pictures, jewels, quantities of
+women already seated, all in the Kakoshnik, and a general impression of
+red and gold in their costumes. All the Empress's ladies wear red velvet
+trains, embroidered in gold. People seemed to be coming in all the time.
+Deputations from the provinces, officials of Moscow, officers,
+chamberlains, a moving mass of colour. The costume of the Popes was
+gorgeous--cloth of gold with very high jewelled mitres.
+
+We waited some time before the ceremony began, but there was so much to
+see that we didn't mind, and from time to time one of the officials came
+and stood with us a little, explaining who all the people were. The
+whole church was hung with red, and red carpets everywhere. Just in the
+middle there was a high estrade, covered with red velvet, and a great
+gold baldaquin with Imperial eagles embroidered on it. It was all
+surrounded by a gold balustrade, and on it were the two thrones. A
+little lower on the same estrade were the places of the Princes of the
+family, and the Foreign Princes.
+
+A little before 9 the Imperial family began to arrive. Almost all the
+Grand Duchesses in trains of drap d'argent, bordered with sable, and
+magnificent jewels. Then there was a great sound of trumpets, and
+cheering outside (those curious, suppressed Russian cheers), and they
+told us the Emperor and Empress were coming. They were preceded by an
+officer of the Chevalier-Gardes, with sabre-à-nu. The Emperor was in
+full uniform, with the blue ribbon of St. André. The Empress quite
+simple in white and silver, the Imperial eagles embroidered on the
+front of her dress; no diadem, no veil, nor jewels; her train carried by
+4 pages, her hair quite simply done--she looked so young, quite like a
+school-girl. Then followed a glittering suite of Princes, officers,
+etc.
+
+The service was very long, the chanting quite fine; the men have
+beautiful, deep voices--I cared less for the intoning, they all end on
+such a peculiar high note. I didn't like the looks of the Popes
+either--the long beards worried me. Of course the real interest was when
+the Emperor took the crown from the hands of the Pope (kneeling before
+him) and put it on his own head. He looked a magnificent figure,
+towering over everybody, as he stood there in his Imperial robes, cloth
+of gold lined with ermine, and a splendid jewelled collar. The crown
+looked high and heavy--made entirely of jewels.
+
+His two brothers, Grand Dukes Wladimir and Alexis, put on his robes. The
+Grand Duke Wladimir always stands close behind his brother. He has a
+stern, keen face. He would be the Regent if anything should happen to
+the Emperor, and I think his would be an iron rule.
+
+As soon as the Emperor was crowned the Empress left her seat, came to
+the middle of the platform, made a deep curtsey to the Emperor, and
+knelt. Her court ladies then gathered around her, and put on the
+Imperial mantle, also in cloth of gold lined with ermine, and the same
+jewelled collar like the Emperor's. When she was dressed, the Emperor,
+stooping low over her, put on her crown, a small one made entirely in
+diamonds, raised her and kissed her. As she stood a moment she almost
+staggered back under the weight of the mantle--the 4 pages could hardly
+hold it.
+
+Then the long procession of Princes and Princesses left their seats on
+the estrade, and passed before the Sovereigns. First came his two
+brothers, Wladimir and Alexis. They kissed the Emperor, then bent low
+before the Empress, kissing her hand. She kissed them each on the
+forehead. Next came the two young Princes, in uniform like their father,
+wearing also the blue ribbon of St. André, and the little Grand Duchess
+(aged 10) in a short white dress, but the Kakoshnik.
+
+It was a pretty sight to see the children bowing and curtseying low to
+their parents. Some of the ladies' curtseys were wonderful--the Arch
+Duchess Charles Louis extraordinarily graceful (I wonder how I ever
+shall get through mine--I am certainly much less souple than these
+ladies). When they had all passed the Emperor went alone into the chapel
+to communier, and receive the sacred oil--the Empress remained kneeling
+outside.
+
+[Illustration: The Emperor Crowning the Empress Church de l'Assomption]
+
+We had various incidents in our tribune--one or two ladies fainted, but
+couldn't get out, they had to be propped up against the rail, and
+brought round with fans, salts, etc. We stood for three hours and a
+half.
+
+The Emperor and Empress left the church with the same ceremony (we all
+following), and then there was a curious function. Under a dais, still
+in their court robes, their trains carried by six or eight officers,
+they walked around the enceinte, going into three or four churches to
+make their devotions, all of us and all the other Princes following, all
+their suites, and an accompaniment of bells, cannon, music, and cheers.
+(I forgot to say that when the Emperor put his crown on his head in the
+church, the cannon announced to his people that their sovereign was
+crowned.)
+
+We had a few drops of rain, then the sun came out strong, and I was
+rather wretched--however Général Pittié came to my rescue, and shaded me
+with his hat (all the men were bareheaded). There were tribunes all
+along the route for the people who hadn't been able to get into the
+church; in one of them all the younger members of the Embassies, as of
+course _all_ couldn't be got inside. These two were all gold and red,
+filled with women, mostly in white, and men in uniform. You can't
+imagine what a gorgeous sight it was, and the crowd below packed tight,
+all gaping at the spectacle.
+
+We didn't dirty our dresses (the trains of course we carried in our
+arms), I don't know why, as the red carpet was decidedly damp and
+muddyish in places. We finally arrived at the Vieux Palais, where we
+were to breakfast, and the Emperor and Empress were also to have a
+little respite before dining in state with their people.
+
+We had a handsome breakfast, quantities of gold and silver plate, and
+many Russian dishes. I didn't much like the looks of the soup, which was
+clear, but had various things floating about on it--uncooked fish,
+little black balls, which I thought might be caviar, which I don't ever
+like; and I was rather wondering what I should eat (I was very hungry),
+when my neighbor, Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, suggested I should
+share his meal. He didn't like Russian cookery either, so he had
+intrigued with a friendly official, who was going to bring him a cold
+chicken and a bottle of good red wine. I accepted joyfully, and we had a
+very good breakfast.
+
+I think we were about three-quarters of an hour at table, and it was
+very pleasant to sit down after those hours of standing. When the
+breakfast was over, a little after two, we were conducted to the
+Imperial dining-room, a square, low room in the old Kremlin with a
+vaulted ceiling, and heavy Byzantine decorations; quantities of
+paintings on a gold ground, bright coloured frescoes, most elaborate.
+There were great buffets and tables covered with splendid gold and
+silver plates, flagons, vases, etc. At the end of the room was a square,
+raised platform covered with red, and a splendid dais, all purple
+velvet, ermine, and gold embroidery where the Imperial couple were to
+dine with their faithful subjects.
+
+We strangers were merely admitted for a few minutes to see the beginning
+of the meal, and then we retired, and the Emperor remained alone with
+his people. Of course officers and officials of all descriptions were
+standing close round the platform. There was a large table to the
+left as we came in, where almost all the Russians were already
+assembled--all the women in the national dress, high Kakoshnik, long
+white lace spangled veil, and a sort of loose hanging sleeve which was
+very effective. The ensemble was striking.
+
+[Illustration: Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes]
+
+Presently we heard a sound of music and trumpets, which told us the
+Royalties were approaching, and as they came near we heard the familiar
+strains of the Polonaise from Glinka's opera "La Vie pour le Czar,"
+which is always played when the Emperor and Empress appear. They came
+with the usual escort of officers and chamberlains, smiling and bowing
+graciously to all of us. They seated themselves (always in their cloth
+of gold mantles, and crowns on their heads) on the two throne chairs; a
+small table was placed in front of them, and then the dinner began.
+
+The soupière was preceded by a chamberlain in gold lace; held by a
+Master of Ceremonies, and flanked on each side by a gigantic
+Chevalier-garde, sabre-à-nu. There was always a collection of officials,
+chamberlains, pages, etc., bringing up the rear of the cortége, so that
+at each entrée a little procession appeared. We saw three dishes brought
+in with the same ceremony--the fish was so large on a large silver dish
+that _two_ Masters of Ceremonies held that.
+
+It was really a wonderful sight, like a picture in some old history of
+the Moyen Age. As soon as the Sovereigns had taken their places on the
+thrones all the Russians at their table sat down too. We couldn't,
+because we had nothing to sit upon, so we remained standing at the end
+of the room, facing the estrade. They told us that when the Emperor
+raised his glass and asked for wine that was the signal for us to
+retire; and that it would be after the roast. (All our instructions were
+most carefully given to us by Benckendorff, who felt his
+responsibility.) Think what his position would have been if any member
+of _his_ Embassy had made a "gaffe." Accordingly as soon as the roast
+made its appearance all our eyes were riveted upon the Emperor. He
+raised his glass slowly (very high) to give us time. General Schweinitz,
+as Doyen, stepped well forward, and made a very low bow. We all bowed
+and curtseyed low (my knees are becoming more supple) and got ourselves
+out backwards. It wasn't very difficult, as we had our trains over our
+arms.
+
+I don't think we shall see anything more curious than that state
+banquet. I certainly shall never see again a soup tureen guarded by
+soldiers with drawn swords.
+
+    10 o'clock.
+
+We dined quietly, everyone giving his experiences--of course the younger
+members of the Embassy, who had no places in the church, had a better
+impression of the ensemble than we had. They said the excitement
+and emotion of the crowd in the square before the church was
+extraordinary. All crossed themselves, and many cried, when the cannon
+told them that the Emperor was crowned. They seem to be an emotional,
+superstitious race. They also said the procession around the courts,
+when the Emperor and Empress were going to the various churches, was
+wonderful--a moving mass of feathers, jewels, banners, bright helmets,
+and cuirasses, all glittering in the sun.
+
+After dinner we drove about a little, seeing the illuminations, but the
+crowd was so dense we could hardly move, though the soldiers did all
+they could, and battered the people about. Then it began to rain a
+little, so I begged to come home. It is raining quite hard now--I
+hear it on the marquise. Heavens how tired I am.
+
+Of course I can't write half of what I have seen, but the papers will
+keep you quite au courant. Some of the newspaper correspondents were in
+the church, and of course plenty in the tribunes outside. Our carriages
+certainly made a great effect, and we were cheered various times on our
+way home.
+
+Madame Hubert talks so much she can hardly get me my things. She is as
+much pleased with her husband's appearance as I am with mine. What an
+experience for them, when you think that she had never been out of
+Villers-Cotterets and Bourneville when she came to us, and Paris seemed
+a Paradise.
+
+    #Ambassade de France à Moscou#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Monday, May 28th, 1883.
+
+We were all again in Court dress at 11 this morning to go to the Palace
+and present our felicitations to the Imperial couple. I wore the same
+blue dress, as my pink one goes on to-night for the "courtag" at the
+Palace. It seems there was some misunderstanding about our being
+received this morning, so some of our colleagues had come, and gone,
+rather put out at the vagueness of the instructions. We decided to
+remain, as we had arrived there in all our finery, particularly as one
+of the chamberlains told us it would be most interesting. Deputations
+from the provinces were to present addresses of felicitation and we
+would see all the national costumes.
+
+As we had some time to wait, the Greek chamberlain suggested that we
+should take advantage of that opportunity to be presented to the Queen
+of Greece. He thought he could arrange it, so he went off to her
+rooms, and presently reappeared with the maid of honour, Mlle.
+Colocotroni (a friend of Gertrude's), and we were taken at once to the
+Queen, who was standing in a small salon overlooking the river. She is
+young and handsome, fair, stoutish, but tall enough to carry it off
+well, and was chatty and sympathetic--said she supposed I was quite
+tired after yesterday, that it was certainly very trying; that the
+person who was the least tired was the Empress. She had met her in one
+of the corridors in the interval between the ceremony at the church, or
+rather the churches (as she went to three after leaving the Assomption).
+She had taken off her Imperial mantle and crown, and was going to see
+one of her numerous relations before beginning again.
+
+As soon as our audience was over we returned to the large audience hall,
+where we found Benckendorff tearing his hair, in a wild state, because
+we were late--all our colleagues had taken their places. However we were
+in time, and ranged ourselves, the ladies all together on the right, the
+men opposite. I was the Doyenne, and stood at the head of the column (as
+neither Lady Thornton nor Mdme. Schweinitz was there). All about the
+room were groups of people from the provinces waiting their turn, but
+there was such a crowd of uniforms and costumes that one could hardly
+distinguish anything.
+
+Presently the Court appeared--the Emperor always in uniform, the Empress
+in a very handsome train, blue velvet, embroidered in gold, and a
+splendid tiara, necklace and front of sapphires. They had the usual
+train of Princes, chamberlains, aides-de-camp, etc. As soon as they had
+taken their places on the platform all the Missions (men) advanced
+according to their rank. The Ambassador made a few steps forward, said a
+few words of felicitation to the Emperor (the Mission remaining at a
+respectful distance behind), then made a low bow, and all retired à
+reculons.
+
+The Austrian Embassy looked very well--the Hungarian uniforms are so
+handsome. The Americans also very well, though they have no uniform,
+wear ordinary black evening clothes. The Admiral and his two
+aides-de-camp of course wore theirs, but it is so quiet, dark blue with
+little lace, and no orders, that one would hardly have remarked it
+except for the epaulettes and aiguillettes.
+
+As soon as all the men of the Corps Diplomatique had passed the Empress
+left her place and came to us. Her train was carried by 4 pages, a high
+official, red velvet and gold lace, carrying the extreme end. She passed
+down the line of ladies, saying something to each one. I heard her speak
+three languages--English, French, and German--quite easily.
+
+We waited until the Court retired, and then there was the usual stampede
+for the carriages. I have not been out again this afternoon. We start
+for our Court ball at 8.45, and of course dine early. I was interrupted
+by Philippe, who came to coiffer me, having as usual stopped in the
+lingerie to inspect my dress, the pink one this time. He tells me he
+began to dress some of the heads for to-night at 12 this morning.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France à Moscou#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Mardi, 29 Mai, 1883.
+
+I will begin my letter while I am waiting to go with some of the
+gentlemen and Benckendorff to see the preparations for the great
+people's fête. I couldn't write last night, I was so tired out. Two
+court dresses and functions, and hours of standing is a good deal for
+one day. We started early, at a quarter to 9. We assembled in the same
+room in the old Kremlin where the Imperial couple had dined this
+afternoon. Almost all our colleagues and some of the swell Russians were
+already there, and everyone moved about, talking and looking until the
+welcome strains of the march told us the Emperor and Empress were
+coming.
+
+One of the chamberlains showed me some of the most curious old bowls and
+flagons. The work is rather rough, and the stones enormous--not well
+cut--but the effect is good, half barbaric. The Court appeared always
+with the same brilliant suite--the Empress looked charming in a pink
+velvet train, embroidered in silver. All the Grand Duchesses in drap
+d'argent, bordered with beautiful black sable.
+
+As soon as the Court arrived the polonaise began; the Emperor making the
+first with Queen of Greece, the Empress with Schweinitz. It was a
+charming sight. All the trains were étalées their full length. The
+gentleman takes his partner's hand, holding it very high, and they
+make a stately progress through the rooms. I didn't dance the first one.
+We had a very good view of the whole thing. It was a beautiful
+sight--the men all in uniform, with orders, and broad ribbons; and the
+women with their trains down the full length. The Russian trains, of
+white and silver bordered with fur, made a great effect.
+
+The Emperor danced (which is a façon de parler only, as one walked
+through the rooms) with the Queen of Greece, Arch Duchess Charles Louis,
+and the Ambassadrices Lady Thornton, Mdme. Jaurès, Countess Dudzeele,
+and me--the Empress with the 6 Ambassadors. I danced the second
+polonaise with the Grand Duke Wladimir, who is handsome and spirited
+looking. He told me who many of the people were. In one of the rooms
+were all the Russian women, not in costume, but in ordinary ball dress,
+all, however, wearing the Kakoshnik studded with jewels, and most
+becoming it was.
+
+I was much interested (before my turn came) to see how the ladies got
+back to their places after having been deposited by the Emperor in the
+middle of the room. He doesn't conduct his partner back as all the
+others do. He goes back to his own place, the lady makes a curtsey,
+and gets back to hers across the room backwards as well as she can. They
+seemed to get through all right. I rather enjoyed my polonaise with the
+Emperor. He showed me quantities of people--a splendid man from some
+part of Asia dressed in white, with jewels, coloured stones mostly, all
+down the front of his coat, and pistols in his belt with jewelled hilts.
+Also the Khan of Khiva, with all the front of his high fur cap covered
+with jewels, also his belt, which seemed made entirely of diamonds
+and rubies.
+
+The music was always the march from Glinka's opera; each band in turn
+taking it up as the cortége passed through the rooms. The last Polonaise
+finished about 11.30, and the Court immediately retired. We had no
+refreshments of any kind, and made the same rush for the carriages.
+
+Our rentrée to the Embassy is most amusing--the whole Mission precedes
+us, and when we arrive we find them ranged in a semicircle at the foot
+of the staircase, waiting to receive us. Richard says he never
+understood the gulf that separates an Ambassador Extraordinary
+from ordinary mortals until he accompanied his brother to Moscow.
+
+    5 o'clock.
+
+We had rather an interesting afternoon. We met one of the committee at
+the place, sort of great plain, or meadow, where the Fête Populaire is
+to be, near the Petrofski Palace, where the Emperor stayed before he
+made his public entrée into Moscow, who showed us everything. There are
+quantities of little sheds or baraques, where everybody (and there will
+be thousands, he tells us) will receive a basket with a meat pâté, a
+pâté of confitures, a cake, and a package of bonbons. There are also
+great barrels of beer, where everyone can go with a mug and drink as
+much as he can hold.
+
+We asked M. (I forget his name) how it was possible to take precautions
+with such a crowd of people, but he said they anticipated no danger, it
+was the "people's day," which sounded to us rather optimistic. It was
+rather nice driving about.
+
+Now I have just been, at the request of Lhermite, to look at his table,
+as we have our first big dinner to-night (all Russians); all the
+flowers, "Roses de France," have just arrived from Paris--three nights
+on the road; they look quite fresh and beautiful,--were packed alone in
+large hampers. I shall wear my blue tulle ball-dress to-night, as we go
+to the ball at the Governor's Palace after dinner.
+
+    Wednesday, 30th.
+
+Our dinner was pleasant last night. As it was entirely Russian we had
+the curious meal they all take just before dinner. A table was spread in
+the small salon opening into the dining-room, with smoked and salted
+fish, caviare, cucumbers, anchovies, etc. They all partook, and then we
+passed into the dining-room, where the real business began. I sat
+between M. de Giers, Foreign Minister, and Count Worontzoff, Ministre de
+la Cour. They were very pleasant, and rather amusing over the exigencies
+of the suites of the foreign Princes; the smaller the Power the more
+important the chamberlains, equerries, etc.--rather like our own
+experience the year of the Exhibition in Paris, where a Baden equerry, I
+think, was forgotten (which of course was most improper at the Quai
+d'Orsay), and most delicate negotiations were necessary. Both gentlemen
+were very complimentary over the dinner and the flowers--asked where in
+Moscow we had been able to find them, and could hardly believe they had
+arrived this morning, three nights and three days on the road. They were
+beautiful, those lovely pink "Roses de France," which looked quite
+charming with the dark blue Sèvres china.
+
+The guests went off about 10; and we half an hour later to the great
+ball. I wore my light blue tulle with silver braid; and I will add that
+I left the greater part of the tulle at the Palace. Happily the silk
+under-skirt was strong, or else I should have stood in my petticoats.
+The crowd and heat was something awful--the staircase was a regular
+bousculade, and I was thankful those big Russian spurs merely tore my
+flounces, and didn't penetrate any further. We finally arrived,
+struggling and already exhausted, in the ballroom, where we found all
+the Grand Dukes and Grand Duchesses already assembled to receive the
+Emperor.
+
+We had some little time to wait, so they all came over and talked to us.
+The Queen of Greece is most attractive--so simple. She noticed that my
+dress was torn and flowers crushed, but said, what was quite true, that
+no one would remark it in the crowd. We soon heard the sound of the
+March, and then there was such a rush towards the door by which the
+Emperor and Empress were to enter that we quickly withdrew into the
+embrasure of the window, and let the torrent pass. They tried to make a
+circle, but it was impossible. The crowd was dense. W. and I made our
+way quickly to the head of the stairs and waited there, as they had told
+us the Emperor would not stay long--merely make a tour through the
+rooms.
+
+They appeared very soon, shook hands with us both, and seemed very glad
+to get away. The Empress was in light blue, with a beautiful diamond
+tiara. It is rather pretty to see the Grand Duke Wladimir _always_ close
+to his brother, to shield him from any danger. We were all rather cross
+when we got home.
+
+This morning I have been shopping with W., Richard, and Pontécoulant. It
+is rather an unsatisfactory performance, as we can't either speak or
+understand Russian. In the bazaars and real Moscow shops they know
+nothing but Russian. We take the little polygot boy with us (always
+ahead in his little droshky) but as he invariably announces "la grande
+Ambassade" we _see_ the prices go up. Some of the enamel and gold and
+silver work is beautiful. Richard was quite fascinated with the
+Madonnas, with their black faces and wands, set in a handsome frame of
+gold, with light blue enamel. He bought two, one for Louise and one for
+me, which I am delighted to have. We bought various little boxes, some
+of lacquer, others in silver, rather prettily worked, and a variety of
+fancy spoons, buckles, etc.
+
+I must stop now and dress. We dine at 6, so as to be at the Opéra at 9.
+We shall go "en gala," our three carriages, as it is a fine warm night.
+The detective is a little anxious for to-night (it would be such a good
+opportunity to get rid of all the Russian Princes, to say nothing of the
+foreigners). He and Pontécoulant suggested to W. that I should be left
+at home, but I protested vigorously. If they all go, I am going too. I
+don't feel very nervous, I wonder why; for it really is a little
+uncomfortable--unusual to hesitate about going to the Opéra because one
+might be blown up.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    Jeudi, May 31st, 1883.
+
+I was too tired to write last night, though the opera was over fairly
+early. It was a beautiful sight, the house brilliantly lighted and
+crowded, nothing but uniforms, orders, and jewels. There was one dark
+box, which of course attracted much attention; the Americans--all the
+men in black, except the three naval officers--(we were acclamés all
+along the route, and I must say Leroy and Hubert looked very well in
+their tricornes and powdered wigs). I wore the crème embroidered velvet
+with blue satin front, tiara, and blue feathers in my hair. I fancy
+Philippe had made a sort of tower on the top of my head, but he again
+assured me I must have a "coiffure de circonstance."
+
+The square before the Opéra was brilliantly lighted (they certainly
+light most beautifully in Russia--thousands of candles everywhere), a
+red carpet down, and quantities of palms and flowers--always also
+quantities of gilded gentlemen. We didn't wait very long for the
+Court to appear--about a quarter of an hour--and were much taken up
+looking at everything, and everybody, and trying to recognize our
+friends. A large box at one end of the house, opposite the stage, was
+reserved for the Royalties, all draped of course in red and gold.
+
+Everyone rose when the Emperor and Empress arrived, always with their
+brilliant cortége of Princes. One of the most striking uniforms was the
+Prince of Montenegro's, but they all made a fine show, and a most
+effective background for the women--the orchestra playing the Russian
+Hymn, the chorus singing it, all the house applauding, and all eyes
+fixed on the Royal box.
+
+It was really magnificent, and the Emperor looked pleased. They gave the
+first act of Glinka's opera "La Vie pour le Czar." When the curtain fell
+the whole house rose again; when the Emperor and Empress left their box
+there was a general movement among the people, and some of our
+colleagues had come to pay us a visit when Count Worontzoff (Ministre de
+la Cour) appeared and said, "Sa Majesté" hoped we would come and have
+tea with her, and he would have the honour of showing us the way; so he
+gave me his arm and took me to the foyer, which was very well arranged
+with flowers, plants, and red carpets.
+
+There were several round tables. He took me to the Empress' table, where
+were the Queen of Greece, Grand Duchesses Constantine and Wladimir, Lady
+Thornton, and Madame Jaurès; also Nigra, Schweinitz, and a brother of
+the Shah de Perse. The Empress looked so young, in white, with a broad
+red ribbon, and splendid diamonds. The Queen of Greece was charming,
+asked me if I ever found time to write to Francis. The Emperor didn't
+sit down--he walked about between the tables, and talked to everybody.
+
+We stayed, I should think, about half an hour at the tea-table, and then
+went back to the theatre. The ballet was long, but interesting, all the
+mazurkas of the Empire were danced in costume. We got our carriages
+easily enough, and the arrangements were good. The younger members of
+the Mission who didn't go for tea with the Empress found the entr'acte
+long.
+
+    Saturday, June 2d.
+
+I couldn't write yesterday, Dear, for I was in bed until dinner-time,
+thoroughly tired out. Neither W. nor I went to the ball on Thursday
+night given by the "Noblesse de Moscou." I hoped to be able to go to the
+ball of the German Embassy last night, but I couldn't do that either. I
+felt rather better about 6 o'clock, and sent for my dress, as W.
+particularly wanted me to go, but the minute I stood up and tried to
+dress I was half fainting, so there was no use persisting.
+
+The fatigue has been something awful, and the hours of standing have
+made it impossible to put on my Paris shoes, and I have been obliged to
+buy white satin _boats_ at one of the Moscow shoemakers. The bootmakers
+will make his fortune, as it seems everybody is in the same state. The
+Empress even can't wear her usual shoes, and all the women have left off
+coquettish little shoes that match their dresses, and taken to these
+rather primitive chaussures.
+
+W. and all the gentlemen went to the ball, and said it was very
+handsome--everything, silver, supper, servants, etc., had been sent from
+Berlin. Madame Schweinitz, who has a young baby, arrived from Petersburg
+the morning of the ball. Count Eulenbourg--one of the German Emperor's
+Maîtres des Cérémonies--had also arrived to decide about the questions
+of precedence, place, etc. The Court remained to supper, so of course
+the Ambassadors were obliged to stay. W. got home at 2 o'clock, very
+late for this country, where everything begins early.
+
+Richard and Pontécoulant are getting great friends. Pontécoulant
+blagues[5] him all the time--says he is getting a perfect courtier, and
+that his electors in the Seine Inférieure would be scandalized if they
+could see him. I must dress now for the "Fête Populaire," and will write
+more when I get back.
+
+[5] Teases.
+
+    9 o'clock.
+
+I have retired to my own quarters. W. dines with Nigra, so I have
+remained in my dressing-room, as I have still a "fond de fatigue." The
+Fête Populaire was interesting. The day has been beautiful, and
+there was not a hitch of any kind. The drive out was interesting, on
+account of the people, a steady stream of peasants of all ages going the
+same way. We went at once to the Loge Impériale, a large pavilion
+erected at the entrance facing the great plain. The space was so
+enormous that one hardly distinguished anything. The booths and towers
+looked like little spots, and they were very far off. The Emperor and
+Empress never left the Loge. He certainly didn't go down and walk about
+among the people, as some enthusiastic gentlemen had told us he would.
+Of course all the same people were assembled in the Loge--Diplomatists,
+Court officials, officers, etc. There was a cold lunch always going on.
+
+There were many white dresses--all Russian women wear white a great deal
+at any age. The Princess Kotchoubey--78 years old--who put the Imperial
+mantle on the Empress the day of the sacre, and who had done the same
+thing for the late Empress, was dressed entirely in white, bonnet,
+mantle, everything.
+
+The Court remained about an hour, and we left as soon as they did. There
+was some little delay getting our carriages, but on the whole the thing
+was well managed. Already some people were coming away looking very
+smiling, and carrying their baskets most carefully. I will bring you one
+of the mugs they gave me with the chiffre of the Emperor and Empress,
+and the date.
+
+    Sunday, June 3d.
+
+I stayed at home all the morning, quite pleased to have nothing to do.
+This afternoon W., Pontécoulant, and I went for a little turn. We got
+out of the carriage at the Kremlin, and walked about, having a quiet
+look at everything. The view from the terrace was enchanting, the
+afternoon sun lighting up all the curious old buildings, and bringing
+out the colours of everything.
+
+This evening we have had a diplomatic dinner. I was between Schweinitz
+and Sir Edward Thornton. Both of them talked a great deal. After dinner
+I talked some time to Hunt, whom I like very much. He says many people,
+Russians particularly, couldn't understand why he didn't wear his
+uniform--"ce n'est pas très poli pour nous." They can't conceive that
+the representative of a great Power shouldn't be attired in velvet and
+gold like all the rest of the Embassies.
+
+The table was again covered with pink roses. They just last through the
+dinner, and fall to pieces as soon as they are taken out of the vases.
+Some of them looked so fresh, not even in full bloom, that I thought I
+could send some French roses to Countess Pahlen, and the moment we left
+the dining-room Lhermite took them off the table, but they fell to
+pieces in his hands, covering the floor with their petals.
+
+    Monday, June 4th.
+
+This morning we have been photographed in the court-yard--the whole
+establishment, gala carriages, servants, horses, moujiks, maids, cooks,
+etc. First there was the "classic" group of the Mission, W. and I seated
+in front, with all the gentlemen standing around us. It was very long
+getting the poses all right so as to show everybody in an advantageous
+light; and as it is (judging from the cliché) François de Corcelle looks
+as if he was throttling me. Then came the group of the whole party, and
+it was amusing to see how eager the Russian maids and the stable-men
+were to be well placed. They stood as still as rocks. We waited a little
+to see the gala carriages and horses taken, but that was too long. The
+horses were nervous, and never were quiet an instant. Now someone has
+gone to get a drum--they think the sudden noise may make them all look
+in the same direction for a moment.
+
+W. and I have been out for a turn--to the Kremlin of course, which is
+really the most interesting part of Moscow. There is always the same
+crowd hurrying and jostling each other. We went all over St. Basile. The
+inside is curious, with a succession of rooms and dark recesses, but the
+outside is unique; such an agglomeration of domes, steeples,
+bell-towers; all absolutely different in shape and colour--perfectly
+barbarous, but very striking.
+
+W. enjoys our quiet afternoon drives, the perpetual representation,
+seeing always the same people, and saying and hearing the same things,
+is beginning to tire him. It is a curious life. We see nothing but the
+Court and the people--no haute bourgeoisie nor intermediate class, and
+yet they exist, people in finance and commercial affairs. They certainly
+have had no part in the show--I should think there must be great
+discontent. The young generation certainly will never be satisfied to
+be kept entirely out of everything. Some of them have travelled, been
+educated in England, have handsome houses, English horses, etc., but
+apparently they don't exist--at least we have never seen any.
+
+I must stop, as we dress and dine early for the Palace Ball. My Dear, my
+dress is frightfully green (Delannoy's green velvet coat over pink
+tulle). Of course we chose it by candle-light, when it looked charming;
+but as we dress and start by daylight I am rather anxious. I consulted
+Pontécoulant, who came in just as the maids were bringing it in. He
+said, "C'est bien vert, Madame." Let us hope that the light of thousands
+of wax candles may have a subduing effect.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Ambassade de France, Moscow#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    June 5, 1883.
+
+The Palace ball was quite beautiful last night. I had some misgivings as
+to my dress until we got to the Palace, as the gentlemen of the Embassy
+had evidently found me _very green_ when we assembled in the great hall
+before starting; however as soon as we arrived in the big room of the
+Palace where we were all marshalled, Countess Linden (an American born)
+said to me at once "Oh, Mdme. Waddington, how lovely your pink roses
+look on the _dark blue_ velvet," so I knew it was all right. I wore that
+dress of Delannoy's which she was sure would be most effective--pink
+tulle skirts--with a green velvet habit (chosen of course by
+candle-light) so that it did look very green by daylight, and a wreath
+of pink roses round the décolleté. I remember both Henrietta and Pauline
+were a little doubtful--but it certainly made more effect than any dress
+I wore except the blue manteau de cour. I will tell Delannoy. We always
+go in by a special side entrance to these Palace functions, which is a
+pity, as we miss the grand staircase, which they told us was splendid
+with red carpets, soldiers, and gold-laced gentlemen to-night. We waited
+some time, an hour certainly, before the Court came, but as all the
+Corps Diplomatique were assembled there it was pleasant enough, and we
+all compared our experiences and our fatigue, for everybody was dead
+tired--the men more than the women.
+
+The rooms are magnificent--very high, and entirely lighted by wax
+candles--thousands; one of the chamberlains told me how many, but I
+would scarcely dare to say. The Court arrived with the usual ceremony
+and always the same brilliant suite of officers and foreign Princes. The
+Emperor and Empress looked very smiling, and not at all tired. She was
+in white, with splendid diamonds and the broad blue ribbon of St. André.
+He always in uniform. As soon as they appeared the polonaises began,
+this time three only, which the Emperor danced with the ladies of the
+family. I danced the first with the Grand Duke Wladimir. He is charming
+and amiable, but has a stern face when he isn't smiling. I think if the
+Russians ever feel his hand it will be a heavy one. I danced the second
+with the Grand Duke Alexis, and looked on at the third. It was not
+nearly so fine a sight as the Court ball at the old palace. _There_ the
+mixture of modern life and dress and half barbaric costumes and
+ornamentations was so striking; also the trains made such an effect,
+being all étaléd one was obliged to keep a certain distance, and that
+gave a stately air to the whole thing which was wanting last night when
+all the women were in ordinary ball dress, not particularly long, so
+that the cortége was rather crowded and one saw merely a mass of
+jewelled heads (the dress was lost). Also they merely walked around the
+ballroom, not going through all the rooms as we did at the old palace.
+
+When the polonaises were over there were one or two waltzes. The Empress
+made several turns, but with the Princes only, and we stood and looked
+on.
+
+While we were waiting there until someone should come and get us for
+some new function I heard a sort of scuffle behind me and a woman's
+impatient voice saying in English "I can't bear it another moment," and
+a sound of something falling or rolling across the floor. I turned
+round and saw Mdme. A---- (a secretary's wife, also an American)
+apparently struggling with something, and very flushed and excited. I
+said, "What is the matter?" "I am kicking off my shoes." "But you can
+never put them on again." "I don't care if I never see them again--I
+can't stand them another minute." "But you have to walk in a cortége to
+supper with the Imperial party." "I don't care at all, I shall walk in
+my stockings," then came another little kick, and the slipper
+disappeared, rolling underneath a heavy damask curtain. I quite
+sympathized with her, as my beautiful white slippers (Moscow
+manufacture) were not altogether comfortable, but I think I should not
+have had the strength of mind to discard them entirely. When I was
+dressing, Adelaide tried to persuade me that I had better put on the
+pink satin slippers that matched my dress; but my experience of the
+hours of standing at all Russian Court functions had at least taught me
+not to start with anything that was at all tight.
+
+While we were looking at the dancing the Grand Duke Michel came over and
+asked me if I wouldn't come and stand a little with the Grand Duchesses.
+He took me to a little group where were the Grand Duchesses Michel and
+Constantine and the Queen of Greece (she is always so gay and natural).
+They at once asked me who had made my dress, and what color it was. They
+had been talking about it, and couldn't agree. The Grand Duchess
+Constantine had on her emeralds, and beautiful they were--blocks of
+stone, rather difficult to wear. She must have been very handsome, has
+still a beautiful figure, and holds herself splendidly.
+
+We talked music a little--she said I ought to hear some of the people's
+songs. I should like to very much, but there doesn't seem any place
+where one can hear the national songs. The men of the Embassy went one
+night to the "Hermitage," where there was a little of everything, and
+did hear some of the peasants singing their national airs, but they
+didn't seem to think I could go. While we were still talking there was a
+move, and they said the Empress (who had been dancing all the time in
+a small circle made for her at her end of the ballroom and very strictly
+kept) was going to have tea. All the Court and suite followed, and I was
+rather wondering how to get back to my place and my colleagues when a
+tall aide-de-camp came up and said he would have the honour of
+conducting me to Her Majesty's tea--so we started off across several
+rooms and corridors, which were crowded, and arrived at a door where the
+two gigantic negroes were standing. He said something--the doors flew
+open--he made me a low bow and retired (as he couldn't come any
+farther), and I found myself standing alone in a large room with four or
+five tables--everyone seated. For a moment I didn't know quite what
+to do, and felt rather shy, but the Princess Kotchoubey, Grande
+Maîtresse, who was standing in the middle of the room, came forward at
+once and took me to the Duchesse d'Edimbourg's table, where there were
+also the Arch-Duchess Charles Louis, the Duchess of Oldenburg, a young
+Hessian Prince, and my two colleagues, Lady Thornton and Madame Jaurès.
+
+We had tea and ices--didn't talk much, except the Duchess of Edinburgh,
+who seems clever and ready to talk--but I wasn't near her. I didn't see
+all the Ambassadors, mine certainly wasn't there, and of course very
+few comparatively of our colleagues, as only Ambassadors and their wives
+were invited to Her Majesty's tea (no small fry, like Ministers).
+
+I had the explanation of W.'s absence later. When the Court moved off to
+tea General Wolseley suggested that W. should come and smoke a cigar in
+his room. He was lodged at the Kremlin with his Prince, the Duke of
+Edinburgh. He, like a true Briton, had enough of bowing and standing. W.
+was naturally quite of the same opinion, so they picked up Admiral
+Seymour (also with the Duke of Edinburgh) and had a very pleasant hour
+smoking and talking until they were summoned for supper. _That_ they
+couldn't get out of, as we made a fine procession directly behind the
+Court through all the rooms to St. George's Hall--a great white high
+room magnificently lighted, with tablets all around the walls with the
+names of the Knights of the Order of St. George who had died in battle,
+and a souper assis for 800 people. Sir Edward Thornton, British
+Ambassador, took me. As we were parading through the rooms between two
+hedges of gaping people looking at the cortége, dresses, diamonds, etc.,
+I thought of Mdme. A---- and her stockings, and wondered how she was
+getting on. I daresay quite well; as she had a yellow satin dress and
+yellow silk stockings perhaps no one noticed anything, and as long as
+she didn't step on a needle or anything sharp she was all right. Someone
+will find a nice little pair of yellow satin shoes under the
+window-curtains in the ballroom when the cleaning up is done after the
+fêtes.
+
+The hall was a blaze of light and jewels--a long table across the end
+for the Imperial party, and all of us at two long tables running the
+whole length of the room. The gold and silver plate was very handsome,
+particularly the massive flambeaux and high ornaments for the middle of
+the table. The supper was good, hot, and quickly served. There was music
+all the time--singers, men and women, in a gallery singing all sorts of
+Russian airs which nobody listened to. The Emperor did not sit down to
+supper. He remained standing in the middle of the room talking to his
+gentlemen, and a few words to the diplomatists when supper was over and
+one loitered a little before going back to the ballroom. He certainly
+doesn't care to talk to strangers--seeks them out very little, and when
+he does talk it is absolutely banal. Is it "paresse d'esprit" or great
+reserve?--one hardly knows. I should think all this parade and function
+bored him extremely. They say he is very domestic in his tastes, and
+what he likes best is the country with his wife and children.
+
+After supper we went back to the ballroom for about half an hour. Then
+the Court retired and we followed them at once. We got our carriages
+fairly quickly. There are always crowds in the streets waiting to see
+the grand-monde pass. The Kremlin looks fairy-like as we drive
+through--lights everywhere, some high, high up in a queer little octagon
+green tower--then a great doorway and staircase all lighted, with
+quantities of servants and soldiers standing about; then a bit of rough
+pavement in a half dark court and under a little low dark gate with a
+shrine and Madonna at one end--all so perfectly unmodern, and unlike
+anything else.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I began my letter this morning before breakfast, but didn't finish, as I
+was called off by some visits, and now I will try and send this off by
+to-night's courier. We have had a nice afternoon looking at the Trésor.
+Of course it was very hurried--it would take weeks to see everything.
+The collection of state carriages and sleighs is interesting. Almost all
+the carriages are French--either given to the various Russian Sovereigns
+by French Kings, or ordered in France by the Sovereigns themselves. The
+great sledge in which Catharine II. made all her long voyages is
+comfortable enough, and not unlike the "wagons impériaux" in which we
+travelled from Varsovie to Moscow.
+
+Then we saw all the Coronation robes, crowns, sapphires, swords,
+jewelled belts and collars, furs, etc., of all the old Emperors from
+Ivan the Terrible down to the late Emperor. Some of the crowns of the
+first Ivans and Peters are extraordinary--a sort of high fur cap
+covered with jewels, but heavy and roughly made--the jewels always
+beautiful, such large stones, particularly sapphires and rubies. There
+were vitrines full of splendid gold and silver cups and dishes, presents
+to the Emperor from all the different provinces.
+
+They tell us the present Emperor has had magnificent things given to
+him, but we have not seen them yet. We met various people also going
+through the Museum, and I had quite a talk with Radziwill (you know
+which one I mean, who married Countess Malatesta's daughter). It seemed
+funny to go back to the old Roman days, and the evenings (prima-sera) in
+the Malatesta Palace. He says everybody is worn out with the ceremonies
+and the standing--however, to-night is the end, with our dinner at the
+Palace.
+
+I have again been interrupted--this time by a visit from the Duc
+d'Aoste, whom I always find charming. He is not at all expansive and
+very shy, but when one breaks the ice he is interesting. He doesn't look
+like anybody else, nor as if he belonged to this century. It is quite
+the face one would see in any old Spanish picture--a soldier-monk of
+Velasquez. He talked about the Exhibition of '78, when W. was at the
+Foreign Office, and I was almost tempted to tell him how embarrassed
+we all were on the opening day when there were so many Ex-Spanish
+Sovereigns--King François d'Assises, Queen Isabella, and King Amédée.
+There was a big reception in the evening at the Elysée, and the
+Maréchal[6] was rather bothered with all his Spanish Royalties. However,
+Queen Isabella and the Duc d'Aoste were evidently on the best of terms.
+I saw them talking together, and I believe all the Spaniards liked
+d'Aoste, though naturally they wanted a King of their own race.
+
+[6] MacMahon, President at that time of the French Republic.
+
+Here is Monsieur Philippe for his last coiffure, as he says somewhat
+sadly. To-night's dinner is our last function. We have then the revue,
+by daylight, of course, and leave on Sunday for Petersburg.
+
+    Wednesday, June 6th.
+
+The gala dinner was handsome and _short_ last night. W. and I went off
+alone (none but chefs de mission were invited) in the coupé d'Orsay,
+always with Benckendorff in his carriage in front--W. in uniform, I in
+my white and silver brocade, white feathers and diamonds in my hair, no
+colour anywhere, not even on my cheeks, which reduces Philippe to a
+state of prostrate stupefaction--"Madame qui pourrait être si bien."
+
+We were received at the foot of the staircase and at the doors by all
+the Chamberlains as usual and taken at once to the same Salle St. George
+where we were to dine--all at the Imperial table this time--about 500
+couverts. We were shown at once our seats--all the places were marked,
+and we stood waiting behind our chairs (like the footmen) for the Court
+to appear. I found myself seated between the Duc d'Aoste and the young
+Crown Prince of Sweden, so I was quite satisfied. One of my colleagues
+was very anxious I should change the papers--give her my Duke and take
+her's, who was never civil to her, but would be perhaps to me, but I
+demurred, as I knew mine would be nice, and I didn't know her's at all.
+I don't think he was very nice to her, certainly didn't talk much, but
+perhaps he never does.
+
+We didn't wait very long. The Court was fairly punctual--the Empress
+looked very nice, all in white with diamonds. She had on her right the
+Duc d'Edimbourg (who always had the place of honour), and on her left
+the Prince Waldemar de Danemark, her brother. The Emperor had the Queen
+of Greece on his right, the Arch Duchess Charles Louis on his left. The
+dinner wasn't bad, and was quickly served. The fish were enormous,
+served on large silver dishes as big as boats. There was always that
+curious Russian soup with all sorts of nondescript things floating about
+on the surface. The Duc d'Aoste was as nice as possible--said the Court
+officials would be enchanted when everything was over, and all the
+foreign Princes safely back in their own countries, that the question of
+etiquette was something awful. As soon as the Russian Court decided
+anything all the others immediately protested--used all sorts of
+precedents, and complicated matters in every way. I suggested that he
+himself was difficult to place on account of the Duc de Montpensier, who
+was here as a Spanish Prince, husband of the Infanta. He replied
+"Absolument pas--je suis ici comme prince italien, frère du roi,"
+declining any sort of Spanish souvenir.
+
+When dinner was over we passed into the salle St. André for coffee, and
+that was funny too. As soon as the Emperor and Empress made the move all
+our Dukes and Princes got up at once, and joined the Imperial
+procession, and we followed all in a heap. There we had a pleasant half
+hour, the Empress and the Grand Duchesses came over and talked to us,
+hoped we were not tired, that we had been interested, etc. I said to the
+Grand Duchess Constantine that they must be enchanted to be at the end
+of their functions, and to get rid of us all--but she said not at all.
+She herself was much less tired than when she began. She asked me what I
+had found the most striking in all the ceremonies. I said certainly the
+Coronation--first the moment when the Emperor crowned himself--the only
+figure standing on the dais, and afterwards when he crowned the Empress,
+she kneeling before him.
+
+The Empress asked me if I was going straight back to France, but she
+didn't say, as so many of the others did, "Ce n'est pas adieu pour vous,
+Mdme. Waddington, mais au revoir, car vous reviendrez certainement."
+Admiral Jaurès having already resigned many people think W. will be the
+next Ambassador, but he certainly won't come.
+
+About 9 the Court retired. We had dined at 7, so the whole thing took
+about two hours. It was quite light when we came out of the Palace, and
+when we got back to the Maison Klein we found the Embassy just finishing
+dinner, still in the dining-room. We sat a few minutes with them telling
+our experiences. W. had been next to the Grand Duchess Michel, who was
+very animated and intelligent, and extremely well posted in all literary
+and political matters, and fairly just for a Princess speaking about a
+Republic.
+
+Poor Pontécoulant has had a telegram telling him of his brother's death.
+He is very much upset, and goes off to-night. W. will miss him
+extremely--he was his right-hand man. I have been out this morning
+shopping with François de Courcelle. It isn't easy, as our Russian is
+not fluent, but still we managed to find a few things.
+
+This afternoon I have been with Lagrené (Consul), Sesmaisons, Corcelle,
+and Calmon to the great institution of the "Enfants Trouvés" fondée par
+l'Impératrice Cathérine II. There we found Admiral Jaurès and all his
+staff, and a director who showed us all over the establishment--of
+course everything was in perfect order, and perfectly clean (and I
+believe it always is), but I should have preferred not having our visit
+announced, so as to see the every-day working of the thing. We went
+through quantities of rooms. In all, the Russian nurses with their high
+head-dress (kakoshnik), the colour of the room, were standing, and
+showed us most smilingly their babies. The rooms are all known by their
+colours and the nurses dressed to correspond. All pink kakoshniks, for
+instance, in the pink room, blue in the blue room, etc. It was rather
+effective when all the women were standing in groups. The nurses were
+decidedly young, some rather pretty faces, almost all fair. The
+surveillante is a nice, kindly looking woman. We saw the whole ceremony.
+In one of the rooms of the rez-de-chaussée we saw several women waiting
+to take the children. The operation is always the same--one writes down
+at once the name and age of the child (which is generally written on a
+piece of paper pinned on to the clothes), they are always very young, 5
+or 6 days old. Then they are undressed, weighed, and carried off by one
+of the nurses, wrapped up in a blanket, to a bath. After the bath they
+are dressed in quite clean, nice garments, and the nurse gives them
+the breast at once. All the rooms, dortoirs, salles-debain, laundries,
+kitchens, are as clean as possible, plenty of light and air, and no
+smells. We met Countess Pahlen going out as we came in, also the Arch
+Duke Charles Louis.
+
+As we still had time before dinner we went to see the new church of St.
+Sauveur, where there is to be a great ceremony of consecration
+to-morrow; but as it is principally to celebrate the retreat of the
+French Army from Moscow the two French Embassies abstain from that
+function. We met there Prince Dolgourouky, Governor of Moscow, who did
+the honours, and showed us the marbles, which are very varied and
+handsome, all from the provinces of the Empire. The place was full of
+workmen putting up tribunes, red and gold draperies, etc., but the
+Prince, with much tact, made no allusion to to-morrow's function--so we
+apparently didn't notice anything unusual in the church, and
+concentrated our attention on the beautiful Russian marble.
+
+    11 o'clock.
+
+I will finish to-night. We have had our second diplomatic dinner, and I
+found it pleasant, I hope the guests did. I had Mgr.[7] Vannutelli, the
+Nonce, next to me. He is charming--such an easy talker. He arrived after
+the sacre, as of course he could take no part in the ceremony. He told
+me the dream of his life was to come to Paris, and I think he would have
+a great success. He and Prince Orloff talked very easily together, and
+Orloff told him he ought to come to Paris. Orloff also says that W.
+ought to come back here as Ambassador, that he would be decidedly a
+"persona grata," but that isn't W.'s impression. He has talked to a good
+many men who are about the Court and the Emperor, and he thinks a
+soldier, not a political man, would be a much better appointment. We
+shall miss Pontécoulant awfully. He is so easy-going and looks after
+everything, always smoothing things over--very necessary in a temporary
+Embassy like this where all pull apart a little, and there is a sort of
+dull friction and rivalry between the soldiers and the diplomatists. It
+is funny to live entirely with a quantity of men, but they are all
+charming to me.
+
+[7] Now cardinal.
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France, Moscow#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Thursday, June 7th, 1883.
+
+W. and I have had such a quiet conjugal day that we can hardly believe
+we are still "Ambassadeur Extraordinaire." We breakfasted tête-à-tête,
+as all the gentlemen have gone off to the Convent of St. Serge, which is
+one of the things to see here. They have a very fine trésor. The Emperor
+and Empress made retraite there before the sacre. After breakfast W.
+looked over his despatches, and I played a little some Russian music
+which Benckendorff had given me.
+
+About three we started off for "les Moineaux," a hill near Moscow from
+which Napoleon had his first view of the city. There was no sun, which
+was a pity, as all the colour of Moscow makes it so original and
+different from everything else--however the city looked mysterious and
+poetical in a sort of pink brume. We met various colleagues going the
+same way--Nigra always in his "Troika" (Russian attelage) and the Hunts.
+Nigra came and joined us on the terrace, and we had tea together. They
+offered us a great many things, but we declined experiments, and kept on
+saying "Tchai" (which means tea), until they brought it. Nigra told W.
+he should taste the peculiar brandy of the country which all
+drink--prince and peasant--but I think W. did not like it much. Nigra
+was most agreeable. He is Italian Ambassador to Petersburg, and knows
+everybody. He says Russian Society is rather fermée, unless you take
+their ways and hours. All the ladies receive late, after the theatres,
+every evening. It is quite informal--a cup of tea, very often music, and
+really interesting talk. He says the women are remarkably intelligent
+and cultivated--en masse cleverer than the men. I wonder if he would go
+as far about them as Lord Lyons did about American women. When he came
+back from America he said he had _never_ met a stupid American woman. We
+had a pleasant hour on the terrace, and then started home again.
+
+We crossed the Empress driving with her brother, Prince Waldemar, in an
+ordinary open carriage (harnessed Russian fashion--the three horses) and
+with no escort nor _apparent_ policemen of any kind. She looked very
+well and smiling, and so young. There was not much movement on the
+road--a few carriages and peasant's carts. As soon as we got into Moscow
+we fell at once into the same staring, quiet crowd; but I fancy many
+people have already gone. The streets were not nearly so full.
+
+I had just time to dress, and dined alone with the gentlemen. W. and
+Général Pittié dined with the Nonce, Mgr. Vannutelli, and were to go to
+Countess Pahlen's reception afterwards. The expedition to the Convent
+seems to have been very successful, but long. They gave them breakfast
+in the refectory--a very frugal meal--and showed them all their
+treasures. I stayed a little while in the serre while they were smoking.
+Now they have all gone out and I am not sorry to finish my evening
+quietly in my little boudoir. I am getting quite accustomed to my little
+room, with its ugly green and gold silk furniture (quite hideous, such a
+bright, hard green). The chairs and sofa are so heavy it takes two of us
+to move them. There are quantities of tables and candles (40 or 50 at
+least, no lamps of any description), in branches, double candlesticks,
+etc. I have great difficulty in persuading the little Russian maid not
+to light them all, all the time; and when I have about 12 to dress by
+she evidently considers me in the dark absolutely. I _think_ I have
+dressed sometimes with two, quite contented, in the old days.
+
+    Friday, June 8th.
+
+I walked about a little with Corcelle this morning. We went into one fur
+shop where we found a woman who spoke French, but there was nothing very
+tempting. They all advise us to wait for our furs at Petersburg, all the
+best furs are sent there--however we bought a very good fur lining for a
+driving coat (each of us) and I a fur couverture--principally I think
+because the woman was nice, and it was a pleasure to talk ourselves and
+not through the little boy of the Consulate, of whom I am by no means
+sure.
+
+At 10 o'clock W. had his farewell audience with the Emperor, but it
+wasn't particularly interesting--an insignificant conversation--might
+have been any emperor, or any ambassador, of any country.
+
+After breakfast we went out again "en bande" with a new polyglot youth
+this time--a young Frenchman whom Lhermite had discovered. He took us to
+all sorts of places, small shops and bazaars, where we had never been.
+We bought a good many things, Circassian belts and buckles of wrought
+silver, some studded with turquoises, some enamelled--pretty
+work--Russian chains and crosses, small Madonnas in curious brass
+frames--always the black face on a gold ground, and several of those
+beautiful, light Orenburg shawls, so fine that they pass through a ring
+(we all tried) and yet fairly large and warm when one shakes them out to
+the full size. It was rather amusing going in and out of all the
+funny little shops. We left the carriage in one of the big streets and
+walked about.
+
+Now we have come home. I have had my tea alone to-day. I must dress, as
+we dine early, 7 o'clock, on account of our reception afterwards. I went
+with Lhermite to see the flowers, fruit, bonbons, petits fours, etc.,
+which arrived this morning from Paris. It is extraordinary how fresh
+they all look. There are dozens of boxes in the dining-room and office,
+and the men are putting the flowers all about the rooms, Lhermite
+superintending the whole thing. He is an enormous help--I don't know
+what we should have done without him.
+
+I am going to wear my white and silver brocade to-night, the one I wore
+at the Palace gala dinner--my last _full dress_ in Moscow. I am rather
+shaken by my outing this afternoon--the going in some of those crooked
+little old streets was something awful. The holes in the so-called
+pavement were appalling, and the paving-stones tapered off generally to
+a sharp point. I think nothing but a Russian carriage, driven by a
+Russian coachman could have got along. I must say it is a straggling,
+queer-looking town once you get out of the Kremlin and the main streets.
+The houses are very far apart, generally white and low, with large
+gardens, like a big overgrown village.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Well, Dear, our reception is over. It is ended early, as everything does
+here--and as I am wide awake I will write at once. People began to come
+about 9.30, and at 11.30 everyone had gone. The rooms looked well,
+quantities of lights and flowers, everyone noticed the flowers (there
+are so few here), which were heaped up everywhere on consoles,
+mantelpieces, wherever one could put them. We had a great many
+people--all our colleagues in full force, but not so many Russians as we
+expected. A good many were de service at the Palace, where there was a
+function of some kind for Russians only (the provinces), and I am sure
+many never received their invitations, as it is impossible to find out
+where anyone lives. I had a talk with General Richter and one or two
+others, and then some of the younger members of the party suggested
+dancing--of course we had no music, as dancing had not been
+contemplated, but various amateurs offered their services, and they had
+about half an hour of waltzes. At the end they danced a little the
+Russian mazurka, which I was very curious to see. It is quite different
+from our cotillon or the Sir Roger de Coverley. There are all sorts of
+steps and figures. The gentleman takes his partner by the hand, holding
+it rather high (as in the polonaise). They hold themselves very
+straight, heads well back, as in a minuet, and do various figures.
+The women have a quick, sliding step when they change partners, which is
+very effective. I should think none but Russians would dance it
+well--one must be born to it.
+
+Prince Orloff stayed on a little after everyone had gone, and we talked
+over all the fêtes, and principally our own performances. He says he has
+heard plenty of talk and criticisms of everything, and is much pleased
+with the success of our Mission. I hope the people at home will be
+satisfied.
+
+We had a dinner for all the French newspaper correspondents the other
+day--and they expressed themselves as quite gratified. They told us that
+one of the correspondents (I forget which paper) had accepted W.'s
+invitation, but the very day of the dinner there had been such a violent
+attack on W. in his paper that he didn't like to come, and sent an
+excuse. They say the Times' account is the best--the Figaro also very
+good (Wolff).
+
+    Saturday, June 9, 1883.
+
+The court is most amusing this morning--all the gentlemen are trying
+their horses, superintending the saddling, etc., as most of them follow
+the Emperor to-day at the revue. The little Russian horses look very
+lively and never stand still an instant. W. and I go together in the
+d'Orsay, Corcelle preceding us in another carriage. Benckendorff rides
+with all the others. Général Pittié is rather bored, he hates riding,
+particularly on a horse he doesn't know, so he and Fayet will only mount
+at the Champ de Mars. They say the Emperor's suite will be
+enormous--over 100. I wore my écru batiste with the heavy white
+embroidery and the écru bonnet with the wreath of pink and red roses. It
+is almost white. (I wonder how I shall ever wear out all these
+garments.)
+
+The day is beautiful. We started about 10, as we were invited for 11 to
+the Tribune Impériale. The road out was a sight--the middle alley had
+been kept for the swells and Court, and there were quantities of
+Imperial and Ambassadors' carriages, aides-de-camp, etc., dashing about.
+I didn't see any handsome _private_ equipages. They told me the reason
+was that the swells were attached to the Court and went about always in
+Court carriages. Our gentlemen passed us riding--they had rendezvous in
+the court-yard of the Palace Petrofski, where the Emperor mounted. We
+went on to the Tribune. The cortége started fairly punctually. First
+came the Empress in a victoria with four white horses. The Arch Duchess
+Charles Louis was seated next to her, and on the box the Duchesse
+d'Edimbourg and the Grand Duchess Wladimir, I think--at any rate another
+Princess. There were 2 postilions, 2 mounted grooms, and a piqueur. Then
+came the Emperor riding on the right of the Empress's carriage, always
+on his little grey Cossack horse, the Grand Duke Héritier and the Duke
+of Edinburgh directly behind him, and then a long, glittering suite of
+foreign Princes and officers. The Grand Duke Wladimir commands the
+Gardes, and was on the field to receive his brother. It is the first
+time I have seen the Emperor without the Grand Duke Wladimir close
+behind him. It was striking to see the stern, watchful face always
+there. The Empress drove up and down the lines, the Emperor riding
+alongside. It was difficult to distinguish any uniforms, as they were
+rather far off, and there were clouds of dust. As soon as the Empress
+had passed her revue she came up to the Tribune and took up her position
+directly in front, _standing_ almost all the time. The Emperor and his
+staff remained directly under the Tribune to see the défilé. That of
+course was long--but we had breakfast, also a sort of goûter always
+going on, and servants appearing at intervals carrying trays with tea,
+chocolate, orangeade, etc. All the Grand Duchesses (not the Empress)
+moved about and talked to us. The Duchesse d'Oldenburg sat down next me
+for some time and told me about some of the regiments (Crimean fame),
+named some of the generals, etc.
+
+I had tea with the Duchess of Edinburgh. She is easy, clever, and was
+much interested in all that was going on, told me I must come to the
+front for the cavalry and Cossack charge, and that it would be soon. I
+followed her when she made the move--the infantry were just
+finishing--and in the distance one saw a movement and a flash of lances
+in the sun, which showed that the Cossacks were getting ready. They
+passed like a whirlwind--so fast, and in such clouds of dust that one
+saw nothing but the glint of the lances, neither colour of uniforms,
+horses, flags. All the troops, infantry as well as cavalry, saluted the
+Emperor as they passed--a sort of dull sound, more like a groan than a
+cheer--nothing like a ringing English hurrah.
+
+That was the end, so I went to the Princess Kotchoubey, Grande
+Maîtresse, to ask her if I should go and take leave of the Empress, as
+she and the Emperor leave Moscow to-morrow. She said the Empress wished
+us all, Ambassadrices and femmes de chefs-de-Mission, to stand near the
+door, and she would say good-bye to us on her way out, so we moved down,
+and after waiting a little she came. She made her circle very prettily,
+shook hands with all, and talked a little, but she was evidently tired
+and anxious to get away. She was dressed in a curious dress, a sort of
+yellow cloth of gold, and gold bonnet with red flowers--always her
+splendid pearl necklace.
+
+We had to wait some little time before our carriages could get up, so I
+went back to the front of the Tribune to see the troops disperse. It was
+a pretty sight as they all filed off in long columns, music playing and
+flags flying, and always little groups of Cossacks tearing all over the
+place. I had another cup of tea with a very good little cake while I was
+waiting. Lady Thornton was tired and wanted one, so we sat there quite
+quietly and had our tea. It was a lovely, bright, warm day, and we liked
+that better than waiting at the door in the crowd until our carriages
+came.
+
+[Illustration: Grand Duc Wladimir
+
+From a photograph by Bergamasco St Petersburg]
+
+We got back to the Embassy for breakfast, but were not very hungry. We
+breakfasted alone with Corcelle, as the other gentlemen breakfasted with
+all the Emperor's suite at the Petrofski Palace. I am writing this by
+fits and starts, as you will perceive. I began at 9 this morning, and am
+finishing now at 10.30, after a pleasant dinner at the Jaurès--merely
+our two Embassies, everyone telling his experiences, amusing enough. The
+Jaurès are quite ready to go. He wants to go to sea again, and will
+command the Mediterranean Squadron, and she is tired of Russia. I have
+no idea who will succeed them, but as long as it isn't W. I don't much
+care.
+
+Well, our fêtes are over. We shall have two days to see Moscow quietly,
+and then break up. It has certainly been most interesting, and now that
+it is over, and we all have still our heads on our shoulders, I am very
+glad we came, for I shall never see such a sight again.
+
+    Sunday, June 10th.
+
+Richard and I made an ineffectual attempt to go to the English church
+this morning, but after driving half over Moscow and going to various
+wrong addresses, which had been given to us, we gave it up, and came
+home rather mortified and well jibed at by the whole Embassy. Just as we
+were going to breakfast Prince Ourousoff, one of the Chamberlains,
+appeared to say that two special trains would start for Petersburg on
+Monday and Wednesday to take back the Corps Diplomatique, and asked us
+which day would suit us best. W. preferred Wednesday. W. must have a day
+or two to send off horses, carriages, huissiers, cooks, etc., and also
+to see a little of Moscow, for he has scarcely seen anything. All his
+days were so taken up with the visits--those he made and those he
+received--and his despatches, that he did little but his morning ride on
+his funny little bay horse (which he liked very much and which carried
+him well).
+
+This afternoon we have been sight-seeing with Benckendorff, first to the
+Kremlin to see the private apartments of the Emperor and Empress. The
+Court, with all the foreign Princes and their suites, left last night
+after the revue, and already one sees the difference in the streets. The
+crowd of peasants has disappeared, there are fewer carriages, flags and
+draperies are being removed from all the buildings, and the circulation
+is so easy that one can scarcely realize that only yesterday that
+brilliant throng was making its way with difficulty through the long,
+straight allée to the Champ de Mars. It is very warm, the sun blazing,
+and the white dust very trying; however we went about a good deal. We
+saw the Romanoff house, an ordinary boyar house, with low, dark rooms
+and a funny little winding staircase, but it had evidently been quite
+done up (in the style of the epoch of course), and I didn't find it very
+interesting.
+
+We went into numerous churches and towers, and wound up with a visit to
+the Monastère Siminoff, from where there is a splendid view over the
+city. We saw the Director, who came out and showed us everything. We
+dined quietly at home with the Embassy only. After dinner, when smoking
+in the serre, the soldiers began talking, fighting their battles over
+again--all that horrible time between the Commune and Versailles, where
+one of our Embassy, Fayet, was wounded. It is always interesting when
+they talk seriously like that, but, Heavens, how they shot people at the
+end, it makes one shiver.
+
+To-morrow will be a busy day, as all the packing must be done. One of
+the French couturières here will send a packer, and will come herself to
+help the maids. Lhermite, with his cooks, footmen, etc., start Wednesday
+morning early. They must cook us our last dinner Tuesday night. Hubert,
+too, with carriages, horses, etc.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France à Moscow#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Monday, June 11th, 1883.
+
+Well, Dear, this is my last letter from Moscow--you will certainly never
+again have any letter from Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, and I
+suppose I shall never see Moscow again. The court is again most lively
+(it is certainly an unfailing interest to me, and I am always looking
+out of the window). Someone has come from one of the Grand Dukes,
+Michel, I think, to see the big horses. Hawes was very anxious we should
+sell them in Russia, if we could get a fair price. They have always
+excited much attention and admiration, but they are very big, and here
+the Russians are accustomed to a much smaller race, prefer three small
+ones to one larger pair. I don't know either if they could stand the
+climate. There seems to be a perfect army of helpers packing carriages,
+saddles, harness, and all the stable equipment. Mdme. Gille (my
+couturière) has arrived. She has made me a very nice little blue foulard
+shirt, I couldn't stand my cloth body these hot days, and yet must
+travel in that dress, as I have no other. When I think of the furs that
+have always remained at the bottom of one of the trunks--so many people
+told me that it would be impossible to be in Russia in May and June
+without furs. It is fair to say that Mdme. Jaurès told me it was
+freezing still the morning they left Petersburg--which seems incredible
+now. I send back all my big trunks and swell garments with the Huberts.
+I shall keep out only one or two dinner dresses for Petersburg. Poor
+Mdme. Hubert is rather sad at leaving me, and going back to France
+without having seen Petersburg, but of course I don't want two maids any
+longer.
+
+This afternoon I went out with Richard for some last shopping. The city
+is completely changed--not a creature nor a carriage, nor servants in
+livery, nothing but a deserted city. We met the Austrian Ambassador
+walking about in a blue flannel vest and a pot hat. The courts of the
+Kremlin were méconnaissables, not a soul, hardly a soldier--one or two
+small detachments of Cossacks at the gates. It is an extraordinary
+change in such a short time. It has become a sleepy little provincial
+town.
+
+We had two or three gentlemen to dinner, M. d'Orval, ancien officier de
+Chasseurs, just back from a tour in the Caucasus with the Duc de
+Chartres, and a Russian merchant for whom Richard had letters--the first
+person I have seen in Russia who was neither noble nor peasant. Both men
+were interesting enough. The Russian talked prudently, but fairly
+openly--said there must be a great change--things couldn't go on as they
+did now, there was a young generation to be reckoned with, active,
+educated, intelligent, and they must have their say--that when the
+uprising came there would be a Revolution such as Europe had never seen.
+I wonder.
+
+After dinner we went to the Hermitage, the great public gardens. They
+are pretty enough, large, with trees and bosquets, and every variety of
+amusement--theatres, concerts, dancing, and even conjurors. Some
+shepherds from the Wladimir Government with long yellow cloaks and high
+hats were playing a sort of reed pipe, curious enough. At last I heard
+some of the Russian national songs--a quartette was singing them in one
+of the theatres. They are very pretty, monotonous, with an undercurrent
+of sadness. They sang very true, and the voices are rich, not at all the
+thin, high northern voice that one expected to hear. We stayed there so
+long, looking at the various things, that we didn't get home until
+12.30--much the latest entertainment I have been to in Moscow, except
+the Palace ball, where the supper of course prolonged the festivities.
+
+    Monday, June 11th.
+
+It was so warm to-day and I had so much to do with the
+trunks--separating the things--that I only went out after tea, and of
+course did a little more shopping. I wanted some photographs and also
+some music--however Benckendorff said he would see about that for me.
+We dined quite alone with the Embassy--a good dinner perfectly served,
+tho' Lhermite leaves to-morrow. He came up to get his last instructions
+from W. while we were having tea. His experiences are most amusing--he
+says he has learnt a great deal of the language and the Russian ways of
+doing business, and if ever he comes back he will know how to take care
+of himself. He became quite excited at remembering various occasions
+when he had been "roulé."
+
+After dinner W. and I went for a last drive, to look at the Kremlin by
+moonlight--and beautiful it was--the sky was so blue one could almost
+see it like the Italian summer sky, and all the great white buildings
+and towers stood out gloriously. The great church of St. Basile was
+extraordinary. The colours, pink, green, red, yellow, all so vivid that
+even at night one quite made them out. It is a mass of towers, domes,
+and cupolas, every one different in shape, work, and colour. It was
+planned and executed by an Italian architect, and the story is that the
+Czar (of the epoch) was so pleased, and at the same time so afraid he
+might make another like it, that he had his eyes put out. It was
+curiously dark and quiet inside--scarcel any light; here and there a
+glimmer high up in one of the Palace rooms. We met two or three
+carriages with colleagues driving about in the moonlight like ourselves.
+The river, too, looked beautiful from the terrace--a broad silver band
+with moonlight full upon it. I took a last look at the black Madonna in
+the gateway, and the little guard of Cossacks. I shall often think
+of that last night in the Kremlin when I have returned to civilization
+and modern life.
+
+I will send this off by to-morrow's courier. My next letter will be from
+Petersburg. My little boudoir still looks very nice. The little Russian
+maid is rather sad, and has been in and out 20 times, lighting candles,
+opening and shutting doors and windows, and keeping up a stream of
+conversation which I can't possibly understand, though the maids say
+they do. W. is deep in last despatches, and has departed to his own
+quarters. I haven't learnt any Russian, which I think is rather weak
+on my part. I thought I would have some lessons at first, but I don't
+think I could have learnt much in two weeks. Lagrené was
+discouraging--says he knows very little, and his mother is a Russian.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Hotel Demouth, Petersburg#,
+    Jeudi, 14 Juin, 1883.
+
+We arrived here last night at 12.30. The journey was comfortable enough,
+but long--the Russian trains do not go a terrifying pace. We left Moscow
+at 9.30, and the Maison Klein a little before 9. The départ was quite
+imposing--all the personnel drawn up at the foot of the stairs, Lhermite
+and the three coachmen outside at the door, and a regiment of
+understrappers of all kinds. The little Russian maid was weeping and
+kissing my skirts. The faithful Benckendorff accompanied us to the
+station and saw us safely deposited in our wagon-salon--each Ambassador
+had one and a smaller one for the suite. Two Chamberlains, not attired
+in velvet and gold lace this time,--I felt rather aggrieved at having
+ordinary mortals in plain clothes to look after us--were waiting at the
+station to see that everything was well done, and they went with us to
+Petersburg. There was a Mongole at the door of our wagon who appeared at
+intervals with tea, oranges, and much information of all kinds (in
+Russian). We had all our meals en route--breakfast at 11, dinner at
+4.30, a nondescript sort of meal, half goûter, half supper, with cold
+fish, fowl, mayonnaise, etc., at 8--and a very pretty little tea at
+10.30. We all partook of every meal--how we managed to eat chicken and
+mayonnaise at 8, having dined at 4.30, seems a mystery, but we did.
+
+It was very hot at starting--the sun pouring down on the plains that are
+around Moscow--not an atom of shade, but there was a sharp shower about
+2 which cooled the air. They tell us Petersburg too is very hot. The
+day passed quickly enough. Many of our colleagues came and paid us
+visits. The Nuncio sat a long time. He is most interesting, with that
+delightful, simple, easy Italian manner. He asked us a great deal about
+the religious ceremony the day of the Coronation. He had only arrived
+after that. He is very clever and sympathetic, ready to talk about
+anything, and so moderate in his views. I think he would have a great
+success in Paris, where people love to discuss and analyze everything.
+
+Our Spanish colleague also came and sat with us. It seems he wanted W.
+to come to his carriage and drink champagne and play cards (very high
+play too), but it was conveyed to him that these were not exactly M.
+Waddington's tastes. Rumour says he was naively surprised, and said,
+"Comment, il ne joue pas!--le pauvre homme!" They were certainly a very
+merry party--we heard roars of laughter every time the train stopped.
+If anyone was losing heavily he took it most cheerfully.
+
+Our last little tea at 10.30 was really very pretty--several round
+tables very well arranged with flowers, tea, orangeade, and other
+drinks--cakes, petits fours, etc. (but no more solid food). W. struck
+and wouldn't get out, but Richard and I and the rest of the men were
+quite ready to see what was going on. Do you remember how I always loved
+getting out at all the buffets at no matter what time of night, when we
+used to go down to Italy every year? I think the buffet at Bologna with
+its "fricandeau de veau" is one of my most interesting souvenirs of
+travel (not from an artistic point of view).
+
+The arrival at Petersburg was curious. It was quite light, and there
+were as many people at the station and in the streets as if it were 12
+o'clock in the day. We read distinctly the names and numbers of the
+streets and the signs of the shops, and yet it wasn't altogether
+daylight--more like a late summer afternoon. We found very comfortable
+rooms here--a large salon with large bedrooms on either side, and a room
+next to me for Adelaïde. I was quite ready to go to bed--the heat and
+dust were trying, and yet it seemed funny to go to bed by daylight. They
+brought tea of course, but we really couldn't do any more, so I departed
+to my own room. There I quite lost the impression of daylight, as there
+were double, even triple curtains to all the windows.
+
+This morning we slept late and breakfasted at 12.30, then W., Richard,
+and I went off in a carriage to the Hermitage (the great Museum). W.
+sent in his card to the Director of the Museum and also to the head of
+the Cabinet des Médailles, as he wants a week's work at the medals. It
+seems there is a splendid collection here. The gentlemen were very
+civil, and we made rendezvous for to-morrow, W. for the medals and
+Richard and I for the pictures. The Hermitage is an immense museum.
+We shall only be able to have an idea of what is in it. We walked
+through some of the rooms--Peter the Great's gallery, which is full of
+course of souvenirs--his clothes, arms, tools, furniture, horse stuffed,
+etc., and in another there were quantities of bibelots of all kinds, and
+presents given to Peter and Catherine II--a collection of snuff boxes,
+crystal flagons, and goblets (some with precious stones encrusted in the
+glass), jewelled belts and caps--most interesting.
+
+We had our first view of the Neva from the windows of one of the rooms.
+It rushes past like the sea, so broad and strong, with very fair waves,
+a splendid river. We stayed about an hour lounging through the rooms,
+and then went on for a general view of the city. It is very handsome,
+but has no particular cachet (except the Neva) at this season of the
+year--one ought to see it in winter when the river is frozen and the
+real winter life begins. It looks so modern after Moscow. We went to
+the great cathedral of St. Isaac. It is very big and imposing as a mass,
+but the architecture not very striking--afterwards to the fortress and
+church of St. Peter and St. Paul, where all the Emperors are buried--to
+Peter the Great's house (a most ordinary little wooden building), drove
+a little along the quais, where the lovely fresh breeze from the river
+was most welcome and invigorating after the heat and dust of Moscow.
+
+There was a good deal of life on the river, boats of all kinds. We think
+of going by steamer to Stockholm, all along the coast of Finland. They
+tell us it is a beautiful journey, particularly at this time of year,
+with the long, clear evenings. I want to see the boat before we decide,
+as I have an idea that it wouldn't be very clean (they say the boats on
+the rivers Volga, etc., are something terrible). We wound up in the
+Perspective Nevsky--the great shopping street, but didn't get out of the
+carriage, merely drove through. The shops look handsome and the vitrines
+well arranged, just like Paris. There was very little animation in the
+streets and very few carriages. They tell us many people have already
+gone away for the summer.
+
+We dined quietly at the hotel, and just as we were finishing Admiral
+Jaurès came in to suggest that we should dine at Peterhof to-morrow
+afternoon. He says it is a very nice excursion--a short hour on the
+boat, and we can get a fair dinner there. About 9.30 we started again in
+the carriage to drive to the Islands or "La Pointe"--the great
+rendezvous in summer of all Petersburg. It is a long hour's drive,
+crossing quantities of small islands all connected by bridges, and one
+finally arrives at the "Pointe," end of the drive, and entrance of the
+Gulf of Finland. There all the carriages draw up, the people get down
+and walk about, or sit on the benches at the water's edge--a regular
+salon--in summer one sees all the people who are still "en ville" there.
+The place in itself is not at all pretty. The water of the Gulf is grey,
+the banks low, no trees--but the air was delicious.
+
+We met almost all our Moscow colleagues--also Princess Lise Troubetzkoi,
+who was delighted to see W. and plunge into Paris politics. She wanted
+us to go back and have tea with her, but it was 11 o'clock and I was
+tired, having been going all day--evidently that is what people do, as
+several of our colleagues too asked us, and expressed great surprise at
+our wanting to go home so early.
+
+We didn't get back to the hotel until 12, and then loitered a little in
+the salon, as the windows were open, people walking and driving about
+the streets, and nothing to make us think it was midnight, or at least
+the midnight we are accustomed to. They brought us some tea, and a
+little before one, making many excuses, I retired, rather feeling as if
+I were going to bed with the chickens.
+
+    Friday, June 15th.
+
+We have been all the morning at the Hermitage, and I will write a little
+now after breakfast, before we start for Peterhof. We took ourselves off
+early in a droshky (Russian fiacre), the porter telling the coachman
+where to drive to; and telling us how much to give him. It was a lovely
+morning, not too warm, and we enjoyed our drive. W. was shown at once to
+the Cabinet des Médailles, where the Conservateur was waiting for him,
+and Richard and I were taken in hand by a young man attached to the
+Museum who knew his work well, and was remarkably intelligent, speaking
+French quite well. The pictures are beautiful--there are quantities of
+every possible school. The finest we thought the Van Dycks and the
+Rembrandts, though some of the Italian Madonnas were lovely too. I like
+the Italian Madonna face so much--it is so pure and young and
+passionless. Our guide was very talkative, and very anxious to know what
+we thought of the Moscow ceremonies. We stayed about two hours, seeing
+all sorts of things "en passant" besides the pictures. The whole Museum
+is crowded--I don't think they could get much more in.
+
+    Saturday, June 16th.
+
+Our excursion to Peterhof was delightful yesterday afternoon. We took
+the four o'clock boat, and had a nice sail down of an hour and a
+quarter. The Jaurès came with us, also Pittié, Fayet, and Calmon.
+Corcelle went back to Paris from Moscow--also Sesmaisons, so our
+Mission is decidedly diminished. We met several of our Moscow friends on
+the boat--General Richter, Comte Worontzoff, and some others. The Court
+is at Peterhof and they are all established there. They told us the
+Emperor and Empress were not very tired after the excitement and
+emotions of the Coronation--very happy that all had gone so smoothly,
+and now quite pleased to be quietly at Peterhof with their children.
+
+The Russians are very proud of Peterhof, call it a "petit Versailles,"
+and "petit" it certainly is in comparison; but the park is pretty, well
+laid out, with terraces and gardens, and the water-works really very
+good indeed. A very good Circassian band was playing, and a good many
+people walking about. What was lovely and quite unlike Versailles were
+the glimpses of the sea one had on all sides. We got carriages and drove
+all about. We went into the big Palace, where the present Emperor never
+lives. He prefers a small place, half farm, half cottage, close to the
+sea, and lives there quite contentedly and quietly like an ordinary
+country gentleman. However we couldn't get anywhere near that villa--the
+gates and alleys were closed, and guards and soldiers everywhere.
+
+We dined very badly at a restaurant we had been told of on the sea, and
+took the 10 o'clock boat home. The return was enchanting--a beautiful
+starlight night, and fresh, soft breeze. I had a nice talk with Mdme.
+Jaurès, who told me a good deal of Russian ways and life. I think she is
+glad to go back to France, and "au fond" there are very few French women
+who care to _live_ abroad altogether. After three or four years they get
+homesick for their own country. She asked me if I was never homesick for
+America--but I told her I had been so long away, and my life had been
+such a full one that I sometimes asked myself was I the same little girl
+that used to run wild in the country at home with a donkey cart and a
+big Newfoundland dog. Those years seem so long ago the memory is getting
+duller. Sometimes I shut my eyes and see quite well the big white house
+with the piazzas, and the climbing roses, the cherry trees, and the
+white gate with the sharp turn, and the ditch where we upset so often in
+the sleighs--all the children tumbling out into the snow drift, and
+nobody minding.
+
+We got home at 11.30 and found letters, which we read quite easily at
+the window. It is a wonderful light--no one ever seems to think of going
+to bed.
+
+This morning we have been again at the Hermitage to finish the pictures.
+Decidedly the Rembrandts are the gems of the collection. There was one
+old man in a sort of fur robe and cap, with a wrinkled yellow face,
+whose eyes seemed quite alive, and followed us all round the room. We
+left W. with his medals and a sort of clerk attached to the Cabinet des
+Médailles. It seems they never leave anybody alone in the room with the
+medals. W. is delighted, he has found some rare coins he had never seen,
+and he means to have a good day's work, will not come back to breakfast
+with us.
+
+Our young man, Baron Leeven, is always with us, and meets us at the
+Winter Palace this afternoon to show us the rooms. Our Mission is
+dwindling; Fayet went off this morning, Pittié and Calmon go Monday.
+Richard remains to make the journey with us to Stockholm by sea. We have
+just come in from a pleasant dinner at the Jaurès'. The Embassy is
+small, but very well arranged, and we had a very good, handsome dinner.
+All the personnel of the Embassy, Vannutelli and his two auditeurs, and
+the French Consul and his wife. Admiral Jaurès was very hospitable and
+en train--all sailors are, I wonder why? The officers of high rank must
+have so many lonely hours, and are such swells on their ships, where no
+one can associate much with them, that one would think it would make
+them rather silent and reserved from long habit--but it is quite the
+contrary. In all nations sailors are generally cultivated, and good
+talkers.
+
+We shall become quite intimate with Vannutelli. We met him at the Winter
+Palace this afternoon, and went all about together. I can't say I found
+it very interesting. The rooms are handsome--high, generally white, with
+quantities of pictures--the portraits, some very old ones,
+interesting--the large modern pictures of battles by sea and land less
+so. I like very much the pictures of Peter the Great. He has a keen,
+striking face, must have had splendid eyes, very intelligent, in some of
+the portraits almost inspired, _hard_, not cruel. They were very anxious
+to show us the rooms where the late Emperor died, but there had been
+some mistake, and the man who has charge of the room could not be found,
+nor the key either. I was very glad (not that I should have gone in),
+for they said it was a horrid sight--the camp-bed and even his clothes
+left as they were, thick with blood. He was carried there directly after
+the attentat, and died on the little camp-bed. What I liked best was the
+splendid view again of the Neva from the windows of the ballroom. It
+looked a beautiful blue sea, the waves dancing in the afternoon light,
+and all the white sails standing out well in the sun. The two young men
+who were with us were most amusing. They showed us all the pictures in
+detail _except_ those concerning the Grande Armée and the disastrous
+retreat. We were hurried past them, "rien de très intéressant,
+Madame--pas la peine de s'arrêter----."
+
+    Sunday, June 17th.
+
+This morning we went to the French Protestant Church--a large room with
+white walls, and benches. There were very few people, but they tell us
+it is fairly full in winter. There is a large French colony--shopkeepers,
+theatre people, etc., and a great many Protestants. The Pasteur preached
+a very fair, sensible sermon.
+
+After breakfast we had some visitors--Sir Edward Thornton, who wants us
+to dine one night; and a nice man, a Russian (whose name I never knew),
+but who told us to come to this hotel in which he is interested, and who
+has offered to go shopping with us one day, and show us the best
+fur-shops. We went for a drive in the afternoon to the Park Catherine,
+where a sort of fête populaire was going on. There were a great many
+people, and a great many policemen (as there always are here), one would
+think they lived in perpetual fear of an émeute, and yet the people all
+looked so subdued and repressed--I haven't seen one fierce face. The
+quantity of moujiks in their red shirts made a good effect of colour,
+but the women are not attractive, nor pretty. All are wrapped up in
+shawls, with a handkerchief over their heads.
+
+We had a pleasant dinner at the Hunts' (United States Legation), all
+their people, including of course George Wurts, whom I was very pleased
+to see again--Admiral Baldwin and his two Aides-de-camp Rogers and Paul,
+and M. et Mdme. de Struve. They are just going to America--he is named
+Minister there. They have been in Japan, and didn't seem very keen about
+America. I should think they would like it better than Japan, but I
+believe he hoped for some post in Europe. She was very amusing, and from
+her account life in Japan must still be very primitive.
+
+We came away early--about 10.30--and have been poring over guide-books
+ever since, making out our journey, always at the window (11 o'clock at
+night, and with no lamps).
+
+    Tuesday, June 19th.
+
+We had a charming afternoon yesterday at Cronstadt on the Lancaster,
+Admiral Baldwin's flag-ship. He had invited all the Corps Diplomatique,
+and the few Russians who are still in Petersburg, Jomini, Struve,
+Benckendorff, etc. We started about 3.30 in the regular Russian
+steamer, and once under way the breeze was delicious. I wore my white
+batiste with Valenciennes, and a big black hat (which wasn't very
+practical on the steamer, as the wind blew the feathers about
+considerably, but I thought it looked so nice with the white dress). The
+American ship looked beautiful as we drew near--an old-fashioned
+frigate, all dressed with flags. The getting on board was not very easy,
+as she lay far out, and we had to get into small boats from our steamer
+and go out to her. It didn't look very pleasant when they put the steps
+down and told us to jump. There were fair waves, and when they told us
+to jump the boat was apparently nowhere near, but of course swung under
+the steps on the top of the wave at the right moment. Lady Thornton got
+down all right, so did I; but one of our colleagues had a most trying
+time. She was stout and nervous, looked wretched when she was standing
+on the steps between two strong sailors who told her to jump. She did
+her best, poor thing, and several times we in the boat below saw a stout
+white leg suddenly descend, but it was immediately drawn back, and she
+never let go of her sailors. Her husband, man-like, was furious, which
+of course made her much more nervous; however, after several attempts
+she gave it up, and they lowered her in an arm-chair, which didn't look
+quite comfortable either when it was suspended in the air waiting for
+the boat to arrive.
+
+We danced about well in the little boat, for every time it came up, and
+she didn't come down, we had to go back and repeat the performance. The
+American Legation got off first and were received by a salute of 15
+guns, and then we followed. The Admiral with all his officers received
+us at the top of the ladder, and the band played our national airs, and
+they gave the Ambassador's salute, 17 guns, and a great noise it made
+just over our heads as we were mounting the ladder. Lady Thornton and
+her husband were in front of me, and I heard the "God Save The
+Queen"--then came the "Marseillaise," and for a moment I forgot I was a
+Frenchwoman and looked to see whom the "Marseillaise" was for (W. hadn't
+come in the boat with me, waited for the second one), but I recovered
+myself in time to bow and smile my thanks.
+
+I was delighted to find myself on an American ship, I so rarely see
+American officers of any kind. The ship was in splendid condition, so
+beautifully clean. We had a very handsome dinner in the Admiral's cabin.
+He took me down to see the table before all the guests came, and very
+pretty it looked, quantities of flowers and some handsome silver. No one
+enjoyed the day more than Mgr. Vannutelli. He had a little doubt about
+coming, as he heard there was to be dancing, and consulted us about it.
+We told him the dancing would be mild, and he might never have a chance
+to see a big American ship again, and strongly advised him to come.
+
+While Lady Thornton and I were sitting together one of the young
+officers came up to her (she knew several of them, as they were some
+years in Washington) saying he heard one of the Ambassadresses was an
+American, did she know which one, and could she introduce him.
+"Certainly," she said, "it is Madame Waddington, wife of the French
+Ambassador, who is sitting next to me now," and immediately presented
+the young man, who said he had been looking at all the ladies to see
+which was the American, but hadn't placed me, he supposed because he
+heard me speaking French. We became great friends, and he took me all
+over the ship. We danced a little on deck--a quadrille d'honneur--I with
+my friend Schimmelpenninck, Lady Thornton with Jaurès, Madame Jaurès
+with Admiral Baldwin. Then we left the dancing to the young ones and sat
+quietly on deck till it was time to go. Just as we were starting the
+Admiral asked me if I would say a few words to the band--they were
+almost all Italians. I went over at once and talked to them, so did the
+Nuncio, which of course delighted them.
+
+We started back about 9 in a special Russian steamer. The sea was much
+calmer, and the getting off one boat and on another was not such a
+difficult operation even for poor Mdme. A----. The sail back was about
+two hours--quite enchanting in that beautiful northern twilight, and we
+were all sorry when it came to an end.
+
+This morning it is very warm, and I am rather seedy, so I have stayed
+quietly at home. Richard and I breakfasted tête-à-tête, as W. was off at
+an early hour to his medals, and won't be back until dark. I wonder if
+the Russian officials will be as astonished at his capacity for a long
+spell of work as the Italians were. _They_ struck after _two_ days of
+such work, and then took it in turns. One day at Milan I went to get him
+at the end of the day, as we were going to drive somewhere in the
+country, so the Italian smiled all over, and almost winked, saying,
+"Ah, Madame est venue voir si Monsieur était vraiment aux Médailles
+toute la journée." I suppose he felt that he wouldn't have stayed
+working all those hours, and also quite understood that I suspected W.
+of doing something else.
+
+We have had a nice visit from Benckendorff, who has told us all about
+the boat we want to take to go to Stockholm. He says they are Swedish
+boats, very clean, and very good food; also very few people at this time
+of the year.
+
+Now I must dress and go with Richard to pay some visits. Calmon will go
+and see you and give you all our news. He won't tell you what I will,
+that he had a great success in Moscow--his artillery uniform, the
+astrakhan tunique, was very becoming--all the ladies found him "très
+beau garçon." I must add too that Richard also had a great
+success--evidently artillery uniform is becoming. It was rather amusing
+to see the face of one of the young ladies when I made some reference to
+Madame Richard Waddington. "M. Waddington married--I never should have
+dreamed of it"--and after a moment, "What is his wife like?" doubtfully.
+"Is she pretty?" "Well, yes, she is very pretty." Richard won't tell you
+that either when he comes back, but I shall tell Louise.
+
+How curious all the Moscow life will seem when I am settled again at
+Bourneville--walking in the park with the children, riding all over the
+country with W., and leading an absolutely quiet life. I hope I shall
+remember all I want to tell you.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Hôtel Demoult, Petersburg#,
+    Wednesday, June 20th, 1883.
+
+Richard and I went visiting yesterday. We found the Thorntons, who gave
+us tea. Their Embassy is charming--a big house on the Quai Anglais. The
+drawing-rooms are large and high. All the windows look out on the Neva,
+and they say it is quite beautiful at night. Then we went back to the
+hotel, got W., who had had a fine morning with his medals--says the
+collection is magnificent, much larger than he had any idea of, and
+started off to the Quais to see our boat. We leave to-morrow evening
+between 6 and 7. It looked very nice and clean, and the Captain was
+quite overwhelmed with the distinguished passengers he was to have the
+honour of transporting. We have an enormous cabin (two thrown into one)
+big enough for a family. I interviewed the stewardess, a nice
+fresh-looking Norwegian woman. Conversation was rather difficult, as I
+spoke German and she Norwegian, and neither of us understood the
+other, but I am sure we shall get on very well. They tell us the voyage
+is enchanting, all in and out of small fiords, islands, and narrow
+rivers. We stop five or six hours each day to see the country, and never
+have any sea until we cross to Stockholm, when it is generally rough.
+
+We dined quietly at the hotel with Coutouly, our Consul, a very nice
+man, very intelligent. He too had interviewed the Captain, and told him
+to take every care of us. He says the trip is enchanting, and the two
+Finnish towns, Helsingfors and Abo, very well worth seeing. About 10
+o'clock we drove off to the "Pointe" and had a pleasant hour with some
+of the colleagues. It is always cool there, and the drive out is
+interesting, so unlike anything else.
+
+Richard went off early this morning with Sermet and Moulin of the French
+Embassy to see the Falls of Smatra, which are said to be very fine. We
+pick him up at Helsingfors.
+
+I walked about a little with Adelaïde--I never see anything the least
+like a femme du monde in the streets. I suppose the "société" are away
+for the summer, and the streets look rather as September streets do in
+Paris.
+
+W. and I dined at the Thorntons'--handsome and pleasant. Jaurès was
+there, not his wife, she has already started for Paris, and the Ternaux
+Compans, a nice young ménage (just married) attached to the Embassy. She
+was very well dressed, in white. There was also the Danish Minister (I
+forget his name). He is a friend of the Empress and très bien vu à la
+cour. After dinner someone played on the piano, and he and Mary Thornton
+danced a little, showing us some of the figures of the mazurka. Lady
+Thornton says, like everyone else, that the society of Petersburg is
+very fermé. They know everybody, but I fancy very few of the
+diplomatists make real friends with anyone. I was rather surprised, as
+the Russians one meets abroad are generally very easy and sociable. She
+also finds the climate very trying. She showed me all the rooms, which
+are charming. In all the bedrooms very thick curtains, as the light is
+most trying, and of course people who live there must have regular hours
+for sleep--for us birds of passage it is of no consequence, and going to
+bed seems the last thing one would think of doing in Petersburg.
+
+We came home about 11, and now W. is busy over his Paris letters, also
+putting his notes in order, as he has finished with the medals. He has
+had three or four days of real hard work, but says it rested him after
+all the Court festivities.
+
+    Jeudi, 21 Juin.
+
+We have been shopping all the morning,--W. and I and M. Lomatch (I have
+found his name). We bought, among other things, a sled for Francis--I
+haven't seen one since I left America--and a good deal of Russian lace,
+which they say is very solid, and embroidery. We came back to a late
+breakfast, and I am writing now at the last moment while they are
+carrying down the trunks. We are going at 4 to the steamer to leave our
+boxes and Adelaïde, and install ourselves, and then go for tea to
+Coutouly, who has an apartment on the Quai, just opposite the wharf
+where the steamer starts from. I am quite sorry to go. We are very
+comfortable here, and the streets are so amusing. I should like once to
+hear a little laughing and singing, as the various groups of
+work-people, soldiers, and peasants pass--but they are a curiously sad,
+subdued race.
+
+    Friday, June 22d.  "En mer."
+
+We are just approaching Helsingfors (twelve o'clock), where we go on
+shore for some hours, and I will write a little. I have a nice straw
+arm-chair on deck (the sail shades me), a table with books, papers, etc.
+We embarked at 6.30 yesterday. We went on the boat about 4--saw the
+Captain, a very nice man, a Finn, who speaks English quite well, and who
+is much pleased to have us on his boat. He went down to the cabin with
+us, which is really a large, airy room, with two very fair beds, and
+a sort of recess which makes a dressing-room. It opens into the ladies'
+cabin, where he had also arranged the end near our cabin for us--two
+arm-chairs, a table, etc. Adelaïde has a nice state-room just
+opposite--also Richard. There were not many people on board--and he said
+he hadn't many passengers, chiefly men.
+
+We left cloaks, books, etc., and walked across to the Coutoulys', who
+have a nice apartment directly on the river. It is so broad and swift
+one feels almost as if one was on the sea-shore. There is much passing
+all the time, and a good many little posts, as at Venice, where the
+boats are tied. They gave us tea, and about 6 we went back to the boat.
+
+Jaurès was there with some of his young men, and Benckendorff, who came
+to say a last good-bye this time. We gave him rendezvous in Paris, as we
+should like very much to do something for him. He was untiring and
+devoted to us all the time we were at Moscow--never tired, always taking
+a great deal of trouble to see that we were well taken care of, and
+helping us in every way. I found three or four handsome bouquets in the
+cabin--one from him, and one from M. Lomatch, the proprietor of our
+hotel. He has written to the hotel at Stockholm for rooms for us. We
+arrive Sunday morning--have three nights at sea. Adelaïde is quite
+excited at the prospect of a real voyage "en mer."
+
+We had a very good supper about 8.30, just as we were passing Cronstadt.
+We have made a very nice arrangement for our meals. The idea of a
+table-d'hôte with all the people who are on board (many more than I
+thought) was appalling, so we are to have all our meals half an hour
+before the others at a small table in the dining-room. It is a most
+satisfactory arrangement, and we had a nice quiet hour on deck while
+the other passengers were supping. It was a lovely evening--the sea
+absolutely calm, and so warm I hardly needed my cloak. We sat late on
+deck. They brought us a table with tea and Swedish punch, which seems to
+be the favourite drink here.
+
+The passengers all came up after their supper. They were quiet
+enough--all had tea, punch, and cigars, and a great many played cards.
+The men look like commis-voyageurs, or small shopkeepers--almost all, I
+should think, Swedes or Norwegians. There are three or four English
+women and girls, governesses, the Captain tells me, going to Stockholm
+and Christiania.
+
+We went down to our cabin about 12--always the same curious grey light.
+I slept perfectly well. It seemed to me there was a little roulis about
+3 o'clock (I heard a clock strike somewhere), but it was only pleasant.
+I was up at 8 and had my tea and toast in the ladies' cabin close to a
+port-hole, and was rather sorry I hadn't had it on deck. I went up as
+soon as I had finished. We were passing through a series of little
+bays, all dotted over with islands, some fairly large, some merely a
+granite rock with a pine tree on it.
+
+    Saturday, June 23d. "En mer."
+
+I was interrupted yesterday by the Captain, who came to get us to stand
+on the passerelle with him and see the approach to Helsingfors. The bay
+has widened out into a sea, and the harbour seems important. There are
+lots of ships and steamers--also small boats going backwards and
+forwards between them and the quais. The men in the boats wear a red
+cap, something like the Neapolitan fishermen. The town stands out
+well--there are high cliffs rising straight out of the sea, and a great
+many steeples (not the green and pink cupolas of Moscow).
+
+We found Richard and our Consul waiting for us on the Quai, and we drove
+at once to the hotel, and breakfasted. The steamer remains until 12
+o'clock to-night, so we have ample time to see the town. Just as we were
+finishing breakfast a gentleman appeared, a director of something
+(Postes et Télégraphes, I think) who came to do the honours in the
+absence of the Governor. He had an open carriage with a pair of nice
+little Russian horses, and drove us all over the town. Helsingfors is
+the capital of Finland, and I believe flourishing enough. The town is
+small and rambling--entirely surrounded by water, and quantities of
+little islands connected by bridges. I think we must have crossed about
+20. Some of the villas are large with nice gardens. The Director showed
+us his, which looked pretty and comfortable. The streets are narrow--not
+much movement. The names of the streets are written in three
+languages--Russian, Swedish, Finnish. All the functionaries are Russian,
+the small merchants and shopkeepers Swedish, and the peasants and
+sailors Finns. They (Finns) have a very marked type of their own, not
+particularly Russian, nothing of the Tartar, only very Northern.
+
+We dined at the famous Café du Parc. W. invited the Director and the
+Consul to dine with us, and we had a pleasant little dinner, fairly
+good. There was a good orchestra, who had evidently been told who we
+were, for as soon as we arrived they played the "Marseillaise" very
+well. It caused quite a sensation among the people who were dining, as
+they evidently hadn't noticed particularly the quiet party which came
+in--all of us of course in travelling dresses. The chef d'orchestre
+asked our Director if we would like to hear some national airs--which
+they played very well, and then I asked for the Polonaise from Glinka's
+"La Vie pour le Czar," which they always played in Moscow whenever the
+Imperial cortége arrived.
+
+At 11 o'clock the Consul's steam launch came (the café is on the water),
+and he took us all about the inner harbour, most curious and
+interesting, and then outside. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and
+we went sometimes so close up to one of the islands that we could have
+spoken to anyone on the shore if there had been anybody to speak
+to--sometimes we were in what seemed a great lake, with no perceptible
+outlet. We cruised about until midnight, then went back to the hotel,
+and walked down to the steamer. The light had changed--was rather like
+dawn, but perfectly light. There were people and carriages, children,
+badauds, loitering about the wharf. They told us a steamer had started
+two or three hours earlier with tourists on board to see the midnight
+sun.
+
+We stayed on deck about half an hour to see the départ. The light was
+getting much stronger--Richard read a letter quite easily, and at 1
+o'clock, when I went down to the cabin, the sun was shining bright. I am
+writing now on deck after breakfast. Young Moltke, a Dane, came on board
+last night, and asked if he might have his meals with us. He too had
+been at the Coronation, and found the standing all those hours very
+tiring. The day is beautiful--the sea perfectly calm, and the long, lazy
+hours on deck most resting.
+
+This morning I was interviewed by two English girls--both young and
+rather pretty, the fair English type. One was a governess going back to
+her place, somewhere near Stockholm, in the country; the other was just
+going out on a venture, had no engagement, knew no language but her own,
+and had merely made the acquaintance of the other girl on the boat. I
+suggested it was rather a risk coming so far without anything definite;
+but she said she was sure she would find something, and she had a
+little money. I asked her how old she was--17. "How could your parents
+let you start off like that?" "Oh, there are so many of us, and I am
+strong." They then asked me if I would tell them something about the
+Coronation--so I talked to them a few minutes. They asked me if I saw
+many Nihilists--as if they were a marked class--and did the Empress look
+nervous.
+
+I have also managed to talk a little to the stewardess, or rather to
+understand her--as I have made out that she is married, and has young
+children, and no one apparently to leave them with while she is cruising
+about.
+
+I wish I could sketch, there are so many charming little bits of scenery
+that I would like to bring home with me. We are getting near Abo, and I
+must stop. To-night is to be our rough night in the Baltic. At the
+present moment the sea is like glass, but the Captain says there is
+always movement crossing over to Stockholm. I should like to go on
+forever in the boat. The long, long hours on the deck with this soft
+grey sea and sky, with nobody to talk to, and no dressing of any kind
+are enchanting. I have got a book, Tolstoy's "Guerre et Paix," but I
+don't seem to get on much--I am always looking at something.
+
+    8 o'clock.
+
+We have just got back after a lovely afternoon at Abo (the old capital
+of Finland). The approach was very picturesque as we went some distance
+up a narrow river to the town, which is not directly on the sea. Our
+Vice-Consul was waiting on the quai with a carriage, and we drove all
+over the place. It is now a dead city--all the life and interest of
+Finland is absorbed by Helsingfors, but it is interesting. We saw the
+Cathedral, the public gardens, and then drove some distance into the
+country to see the oldest church in Finland--a little old, grey building
+that looks any age. The country is very pretty, always charming views of
+the sea, and a few villas dotted about, but nothing like as many as at
+Helsingfors. It seems people come sometimes in summer for sea air,
+bathing, and fishing, and occasionally English yachts stop a day or two.
+
+We got back about eight, and I am writing now before supper. We found
+the boat all dressed with greens, as it is the St. Jean, and they tell
+us we shall see lights, bonfires, and torches on all the little islands,
+as they always celebrate the St. Jean here with greens and lights. My
+next letter will be from Stockholm.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Stockholm#,
+    Sunday, June 24th, 1883.
+
+Well, Dear, we arrived at 12 o'clock this morning, and I was quite sorry
+to leave the boat and my nice big cabin, and the good-natured
+stewardess. Last night was enchanting. We sat on deck until 12.30. W.
+treated us all to Swedish punch and cakes. It was decidedly cooler--for
+the first time I had on the warm, long, blue cloth coat I started in
+from Paris, and there was rather more motion. How it would amuse you--I
+wish you were here. The deck looks quite picturesque--lots of little
+round tables with groups of three or four people, all drinking
+something, and most of them playing cards. Between 11 and 12 there is a
+sort of night, or darkness, so they brought up some lamps, which looked
+weird, and gave a faint, flickering light. We run sometimes so close to
+the islands, between several, in a narrow channel, that one would think
+it was impossible to pass, but evidently it is deep sea everywhere, and
+we go steadily on without slackening. I am delighted we decided to come
+by sea. It is again a most novel experience, and such a contrast to our
+Moscow stay--all gold and glitter, and colour and courtiers.
+
+We were just getting out of the little channels and islands and making
+for the open sea when I went downstairs. The captain came and sat with
+us a little while, and told us where we were. Some of the lights on the
+small islands looked as if they were rising straight out of the sea. The
+water was grey, and the rock grey--one only saw the light.
+
+We didn't meet many ships--a few sailing boats as we left Abo--but no
+steamers or big ships. We were up fairly early, as they told us the
+entrance to Stockholm was so beautiful. Coming by water it rises
+straight out of the sea like Venice. There were quantities of islands,
+but much greener than those of the Finnish coast, and the cliffs higher.
+Villas everywhere, close down to the water's edge, and running up the
+hills. Little pleasure boats and yachts skimming all over the harbour.
+As it was fête St. Jean all the peasants and country people were out in
+flat-bottomed boats, crowded with women and children down to the water's
+edge--the boats quite covered with green boughs and leaves, the women in
+costume--a white skirt, coloured bodice embroidered in gold or
+silver--silver charms and big pins in their hair. It really was
+fairy-like for quite two hours before we arrived.
+
+We got in at twelve exactly, and breakfasted on board. The river is so
+deep that big ships run straight up into the town. The American frigate,
+Lancaster, which arrived last night, is anchored directly in front of
+the hotel, under our windows.
+
+We took a most cordial leave of our Captain, who expressed great
+gratification at having had us on board--hoped we were satisfied and
+would recommend his boat to any of our friends who wanted to make the
+same trip. W. and Richard were astounded at the cheapness of the
+journey. I think they made out it was about 50 francs apiece--tout
+compris. We were three nights on board, and had all our meals except the
+day at Helsingfors.
+
+We found various people waiting for us at the quai--one of the
+secretaries of our Legation--the gérant of the Hôtel de l'Europe--one or
+two members of the French colony here, and M. Mathias, a French engineer
+who lives here. We went across to the hotel in a ferry-boat and found
+charming rooms, with windows and balconies on the river. The proprietor
+informed us with much pride that the last distinguished foreigner that
+had occupied the apartment was Mdme. Sarah Bernhardt.
+
+We found quantities of letters, unpacked a little--I wasn't sorry to get
+out of my blue cloth into something lighter, as it is warm. They say it
+is going to rain, and it has been dull and grey all the morning. M.
+Patenôtre, French Minister, has sent word that he will come and see
+us about 2.30. The King is here, and will receive W. The Queen and
+Princesses are away, so I have nothing to do. The Royal Palace is
+opposite--a big square building.
+
+    7 o'clock.
+
+Patenôtre and all his Legation appeared. They brought us some picture
+papers with the Coronation, proclamation (the Heralds dressed in cloth
+of gold, and preceded by trumpeters) and ball. They say the Graphic is
+the best, but they hadn't it, you might perhaps, June 10th. We went for
+a drive with M. Mathias, who will be our cicerone here, as he knows
+Stockholm well. We went to the Royal Park, which is handsome--fine old
+trees and allées, and to the Observatory, from which generally there is
+a beautiful view of Stockholm and its surroundings--but it was grey and
+misty, raining even a little, so we didn't see much.
+
+We are to dine quietly here and go after dinner to a camp where soldiers
+and peasants play games and dance and sing, in honour of St. Jean.
+
+The river is still covered with little green boats darting about in
+every direction.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Hôtel D'europe, Stockholm,#
+    Monday, June 25th, 1883.
+
+My Dear, this is the most enchanting place. The sun is out this morning,
+and the river and green hills too lovely. The river is most animated,
+quantities of sail boats and ordinary little rowing boats flying about
+in all directions, and plenty of life on the quais. Our expedition
+last night was not very successful. M. Mathias came to dinner early, at
+7 (almost everyone dines at 6), and we went off to the camp. It was a
+pretty drive all along the river, and would have been nice if it had
+been clear, but it was a cold, grey evening, and began to rain a little
+before we got home. We found plenty of people looking on--various
+carriages drawn up, and it is evidently a thing to do--on a fine night
+people get out and walk about in the crowd, but as it was misting a
+little and decidedly muddy, we merely looked on from the carriage. One
+of the military bands played very well, a sort of quickstep, and the
+people danced with a certain entrain, but there were no particular
+steps, nor national dances, nothing very different from what one
+would see in a French assemblée when the people dance on the pelouse
+before the Mairie. When they were all dancing round a may-pole dressed
+with greens, it was pretty, with soldiers and the Dalecarlian
+women--there were policemen, but not many, and the people looked quite
+peaceable and happy, evidently enjoying themselves immensely. There were
+quite a number of children--little tots that looked as if they could
+just walk, joining in the ring. Some of the costumes were pretty. The
+Dalecarlian women looked well--they wear a high black cap which is very
+effective on their fair hair, which is plaited in heavy braids, and goes
+around the head like a turban; a white bodice, bright coloured apron,
+and gold or silver charms and hair-pins. The language sounded hard--no
+more the soft Russian tongue--and, alas! I am afraid no more the long,
+beautiful Russian twilight. The sky is grey and the clouds low. They
+say we are going to have a spell of rain.
+
+Mathias says the language is not at all difficult to learn, and it is
+absolutely necessary to know it, particularly for anyone who is here in
+any sort of business capacity.
+
+We got home about 10 and went in to pay a visit to the Baldwins, who
+have the rooms next to us. They had intended going too to the camp, but
+the rain frightened them off. We told them they hadn't missed much. The
+Admiral is charming--has been everywhere, seen everything, and takes
+such a practical American view of everything. He was not at all
+impressed with all the magnificence of Moscow--"All show (not much of a
+one) and hollow. What is there underneath?" However, I said I thought
+the show was pretty good as far as it went, and certainly no other
+country in the world could offer such a sight; to which he replied,
+smilingly, that I had been so long away from America that I had
+forgotten what it was like. I stuck to my guns, and said that certainly
+not all the intelligence, energy, education, and money of America could
+produce such a pageant. What was so wonderful was the contrast. All the
+modern life and luxury grafted upon that old half-Eastern, half-barbaric
+world. I think I shall never again see anything like the dinner of the
+Emperor and Empress the day of the Coronation. It looked exactly like
+some old mediæval picture as they sat there in their robes and crowns in
+that old dark-vaulted room of the old palace. We had quite an animated
+discussion. I fancy he always takes the opposite side on principle.
+
+This morning we have been very energetic. Mathias came at 10 o'clock,
+and we started off sight-seeing. We walked across to the Palace, which
+is directly opposite, and were there about an hour. There is not much to
+see, the rooms are large and high, all very simply furnished. Those that
+give on the river are very gay with all the water life of the city
+passing under the windows. There is one large gallery "des glaces"
+rather like the famous one at Versailles, which they told us was
+beautiful when it was lighted. There are quantities of portraits
+everywhere, and these, of course, are interesting; also some fine china,
+large vases. We saw, of course, Bernadotte's room, left exactly as it
+was when he died there. It was a curious mixture of French and Swedish,
+several French papers and brochures lying about on the tables just as he
+had left them, quite yellow with age and the print fading, also
+note-books and "projets de loi" annotés in his handwriting. They say he
+never knew a word of Swedish and yet was so popular. There was a fine
+portrait of him over the fireplace, a handsome man, with fine soldierly
+bearing.
+
+We found a nice open carriage waiting for us at the door of the Palace
+and drove off to Drottningholm, one of the Royal residences on Lake
+Malar. The drive was charming, through pretty green country, and as soon
+as we came near the Lake, villas (generally white) in every direction.
+We crossed various little arms of the lake before we arrived at the
+Château. It is an enormous pile, and stands very well in a large park.
+The Governor, a fine old soldier (who rather reminded me of Marshal
+MacMahon), was waiting for us with his son, and showed us everything.
+The rooms are large and bright and exceedingly simple. It seems the
+Royal Family are very fond of the place. There is so much room that they
+can have as many people staying as they like, and they all live on the
+water. We drove through the park, and saw the Governor's villa, not far
+from the Palace. As we had been going since 10 o'clock the idea of tea
+was not disagreeable, so we consulted our coachman (at least Mathias
+did, as we couldn't talk), and he told us there was a good little café
+in the park, at one end, far from the Château, where the public were
+allowed, so we stopped there and had a very good cup of tea. It was cool
+and green, and we rather liked sitting there with the lake before us in
+the drowsy quiet of a summer afternoon. However we had to get back to
+Stockholm, as W. had to make a visit to the Ministre es Affaires
+Étrangères. He sent him word just as we were starting that the King
+would receive him to-morrow at one o'clock. He must also see if he can
+borrow anywhere a Swedish grand cordon. He sent all his decorations
+back to Paris with his uniform, quite forgetting that he might want some
+on his way home, and they tell him he must have his, that the King is
+very particular about such matters, and wouldn't be at all pleased if he
+presented himself without his order. Patenôtre's is no good, as it isn't
+the same order.
+
+We left W. the carriage and walked home, stopping and looking at all the
+shop windows. I don't know that there is much to buy, but we are going
+on a real shopping expedition to-morrow morning. Mathias showed us some
+queer old streets and houses and a famous shop where there were all
+sorts of fishing outfits. He is very anxious that we should go on to
+Norway, see Christiania and some of the famous fiords. He says the
+country is much finer than any part of Sweden, and there is much more
+"couleur locale." It is just the season for it. I should like it
+extremely, but I am afraid W. won't. He wants to get home, and must stay
+three or four days at Copenhagen, where there is a fine collection of
+medals.
+
+Now I am sitting writing at the window, waiting until it is time to
+dress for dinner at the Legation. The river is a perpetual enjoyment,
+always something going on. A big boat has just put off from the American
+man-of-war. The men look a fine sturdy lot, and come up in great style
+with a good, long stroke. They attract much attention, for as soon as
+the boat left the ship a little crowd gathered and watched their
+progress.
+
+Here is W., who enjoyed his visit to the minister very much--found him
+easy and intelligent, and much interested in the Coronation. They will
+send him a plaque and a ribbon from the jewellers, so he will be quite
+correct to-morrow. Adelaïde is much disturbed because I have neither
+fine dress nor jewels for the dinner to-night. It really is not of the
+slightest consequence, as I am the only lady (Patenôtre is a bachelor),
+and we are going to the gardens afterwards. I shall wear Delannoy's
+blue and white striped silk, half long, and take my hat in my hand, as
+it must go on for our outing.
+
+    12 o'clock.
+
+We have just come in from our dinner, which was pleasant and very good,
+merely the three, Mathias, Patenôtre, and one of his secretaries, M. de
+Bondy. The house is large, nice, and looks very pretty, as the Minister
+has been both in China and Persia and has brought back some beautiful
+things, carpets, tentures, and curios of all kinds. He evidently didn't
+find Pekin a very pleasant or healthy residence, says the cold is
+something awful. He likes Stockholm, says the Swedes are pleasant,
+kindly people, lead simple lives, and do all they can to make it
+pleasant for the Corps Diplomatique. There are few large fortunes--very
+little life, and little private entertaining. The Court gives several
+balls and dinners every year.
+
+About 8.30 we went off to the gardens and restaurant Haselbach, where
+all the beau monde of Stockholm assembles in summer, but the season is
+over and there were not many people there--of _Society_; _people_ there
+were, plenty. The gardens are large, well lighted, a very good band was
+playing, and everyone walking up and down the broad allées, or seated at
+little tables with tea and punch. We sat there about an hour. Patenôtre
+pointed out various notabilities to us, but said he didn't know many
+people.
+
+Now we are discussing routes with maps and books. We shall start for
+Copenhagen to-morrow night viâ Malmo, and must send in the morning to
+engage our sleepings. It is a long journey. We leave here at 8.30,
+and don't get to Copenhagen until 4.30 the next day.
+
+    Tuesday, June 26th.
+
+It is lovely again this morning. Richard and I and Mathias have been
+wandering about the streets shopping. There isn't much to buy--Norwegian
+knives with carved wooden handles in a leather case, Scandinavian
+charms, buckles, and brooches roughly worked, but rather pretty and
+curious shapes--furs, too, of course, but we didn't want any more. I was
+rather tempted by a large white stuffed bear. I thought it would look so
+well in the hall in the country; but of course the only reason to have a
+bear in the house is when you shot it yourself, and that was not
+possible in the streets of Stockholm in the month of June. The day is
+divine--sky blue and water dancing. The whole aspect of the place is
+much gayer than anything we saw in Russia. People don't look sad or
+preoccupied; there are always badauds hanging over the bridges and
+exchanging jokes or remarks with the watermen.
+
+Richard and I breakfasted tête-à-tête, as W. had gone off for his Royal
+audience. His plaque and grand cordon came in time from the jeweller,
+so he was quite proper. I shall go and see about the trunks, and as soon
+as W. comes back we shall start again for some last sightseeing, the
+Museum, churches, etc. We dine at 6 and start at 8 from the hotel.
+Richard has decided to wait a day longer and go and see the Falls of
+Upsala, which are quite worth seeing. Mathias will go with him, and
+he will join us at Copenhagen Thursday. The Baldwins have just come in
+to say good-bye. They, too, are leaving to-morrow.
+
+I will finish, as I have a quiet hour before dinner. I left the
+gentlemen at the Museum, as I was not very well, and thought better to
+rest a little before starting this evening. W. came in a little after
+two, having enjoyed the hour with the King very much. He says he is a
+tall, handsome man, very intelligent, and well up in everything. He
+received him quite informally in his cabinet de travail, which he said
+had also been Bernadotte's. There was a good picture of him on the
+walls. He was much interested in the Coronation, though he had heard all
+about it already from his son, but he was anxious to have W.'s
+impressions. He said _he_ personally had never been very anxious about a
+Nihilist plot at that time. He didn't think they would choose that
+opportunity. He was much interested in everything French, literature,
+politics, theatres, and asked W. if he was going back to Petersburg as
+Ambassador. He also asked him if he had ever been in America, as he
+believed he had married an American, and was much surprised to hear he
+had never crossed the big pond. He told him too just what some of the
+Swedish diplomats told me, that all his best young men went to America.
+They got such high wages, and got on so well, that they were all
+leaving Sweden. I remember Sandford telling us years ago in Paris, that
+all the workmen on his orange plantations in Florida were Swedes.
+
+[Illustration: M. William Waddington From a copyright photograph by
+Russell & Son]
+
+W. had just time to get out of his dress clothes, and send back his
+order when Mathias appeared, and we went for a last tournée. First to
+the Church des Chevaliers, where all the Swedish Kings are buried, up
+and down some old streets where there are curious old houses, and
+wound up at the Museum. I only stayed there half an hour, saw some of
+the pictures and souvenirs of Charles IX, and then came home, leaving
+the others.
+
+Now we have finished packing, I have on my travelling dress, and am
+seated quietly at the window with my book, Tolstoy's "La Guerre et la
+Paix," but I don't make much progress--I am always looking out. A
+big steam yacht has just come in--ran straight up the river alongside of
+the "Lancaster." About twenty little boats have immediately started out,
+going close up to the yacht, and they have sent off a steam launch,
+which has come up to the wharf in about five minutes.
+
+Patenôtre and his secretary have come to say good-bye, and to say that
+all the orders are given for this evening, and we shall have our
+sleepings. I wonder if you have seen Pontécoulant. He said he would go
+at once to find you. He has been saving up all he heard about the
+Americans and their frock coats and grey trousers (when everyone else
+was covered with gold embroidery and orders) for you, and hopes to get a
+good rise out of you.
+
+My next letter will be from Copenhagen--then Hamburg and home. The
+gentlemen have come in--found the Museum very interesting, and we shall
+dine in a few minutes, so this must stop and will go off from here by
+the evening courier.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Copenhagen#,
+    Wednesday, June 27th, 1883.
+
+We arrived at one o'clock to-day, Dear, not tired at all, as our journey
+was easy. We had a capital waggon, a large sleeping carriage, a bed on
+each side, and a good toilette. We started punctually at 8.30, through
+fairly pretty country, nothing very picturesque, but a general
+impression of verdure. At 10.30 we stopped somewhere, had tea, and the
+man came and made the beds. I slept quite well. We took the steamer at
+Malmo, breakfasted on board, and enjoyed the crossing. The sea was
+beautiful and there were quantities of boats of all kinds. There was a
+thick fog for about half an hour, which was very uncomfortable, for we
+knew how many boats there were all around us, and as soon as our own
+whistle stopped, we heard many others unpleasantly near. However it
+lifted as we neared Copenhagen.
+
+The approach is good, but not nearly so fine as Stockholm. There are no
+islands and the country all about is very flat. The quantity of boats of
+all kinds made it a very pretty sight. We found M. de Kergorlay, Chargé
+d'Affaires, waiting for us on the quai with a carriage, and drove at
+once to the hotel. We wanted a little time to change, read our letters
+(we found a quantity, two from you), which you may imagine I was glad to
+have. I am so glad the boy has kept well--I am getting very homesick for
+him now that our faces are turned homewards. M. de Kergorlay said he
+would come back at 4 and take us a drive. W. too found various letters
+and papers. We started again at 4 and had a beautiful drive to the "Deer
+Park" for some distance along the sea, with quantities of villas,
+casinos, cafés with music all the way. There were some very pretty
+carriages, officers riding, and every description of pleasure boat, big
+and small, on the sea. Just as we were leaving the sea and turning into
+the forest we met a big break, with the Prince Royal driving himself and
+his family. The carriage was full of children. He recognized of course
+Kergorlay, then W.--however they are all in the country. We shall have
+no visits nor audiences of any kind. I am rather sorry not to see the
+Prince. He was in Paris and dined with us the Exhibition year, when W.
+was at the Quai d'Orsay, and I found him most sympathetic, and very
+good-looking.
+
+It was so pretty driving through the deer park. We had tea in one of the
+casinos, standing high over the sea, with a splendid view. We dined
+quietly at the hotel at a small table in the dining-room. We saw there
+General Appert and his family dining. They had come to Copenhagen
+to see their son, who is military attaché here (Madame Appert is a
+Dane), also Harry Whitehouse, who said they were in the country, but not
+far, and would certainly come in and see us. I have written a few notes
+since dinner, and W. has also sent one to be given early to-morrow
+morning to the Conservateur des Médailles at the Museum. The hotel is
+very comfortable, we have an enormous salon on the front, and good
+bedrooms. Adelaïde has fraternised with the Apperts' maid, and is
+delighted to have a compatriote to go about with. I was interrupted, as
+W. suggested we should go out and make a little turn in the streets
+while he smoked a cigar. The town is much less gay than Stockholm. All
+the houses are built of grey stone, and are high and narrow, rather like
+New York. There are a good many people in the streets and in the trams,
+of which there seem plenty.
+
+    Thursday, June 28th.
+
+It is again a beautiful day, and at 10 o'clock W. and I started. I took
+Adelaïde, for I knew W. would be absorbed at once by the medals, and I
+didn't care to come home alone. We were received with much empressement
+by the Director. As I supposed, the Conservateur des Médailles carried
+off W. at once, and a sub. of some kind was deputed to show me the
+Historical Museum, which really is very interesting, costumes and
+interior groups of figures of the whole world. They say it is very
+exact, but what a work it must have been. We saw it very well and fairly
+quickly, as it wasn't a public day, and the young man only showed us
+what was worth seeing. We walked home. It wasn't far, and he explained
+the route to us. I really needed the exercise. The town is decidedly
+gloomy, even in the bright sunlight, and might be any Northern town
+anywhere.
+
+I breakfasted alone at a small table in the dining-room, and had the big
+room almost to myself--two gentlemen were breakfasting at one end.
+Almost as soon as I got upstairs I had some visits. First Richard
+appeared, very pleased with his excursion, said it would have been a
+pity not to see the Falls, being so near; then came Col. Wyckham Hoffman
+and Whitehouse. Hoffman was much interested in hearing about the
+Coronation, as he was five years secretary in Russia and knew all the
+people. He and Mrs. Hoffman are at Elsinore for the summer and want us
+very much to come down and dine and stay over night, but I am afraid we
+can't. W. wants all his time here for the coins, and it would take quite
+a day to really see the place. Kergorlay came with a carriage at three,
+and he and I and Richard started again for the same drive. It seems all
+Copenhagen does it every afternoon. The sea looked enchanting, and I
+think there were more boats than yesterday--several big steamers,
+English bound they tell us--and such quantities of pleasure boats. We
+drove rather further into the forest, as we had more time. It is really
+very lovely--had tea in another casino with the same view of the sea. We
+met various private carriages with good horses, a certain number were
+breaks full of nurses and children; and some rather smart-looking
+officers well mounted. We didn't meet the Royal break again. It seems
+they are all (a big family party) at one of their châteaux near
+Copenhagen, and come into town very often. Kergorlay seems to like
+Copenhagen--not the climate, he says it is cold and foggy, there are
+days when one never sees the sun. It makes rather a gloomy impression
+on me. If I lived here I too would want to come every day to the Deer
+Park, which wouldn't be convenient perhaps for domestic arrangements.
+
+The streets are curiously banal--I wonder why? Of course one didn't
+expect to find the colour and half-Eastern look of Moscow, nor the gay
+half "bains-de mer" impression of Stockholm, but I am disappointed. One
+thinks of Danes as descendants of the Vikings, heroes, enormous men with
+long limbs and yellow hair. Do you remember the poem we were so mad
+about in the days of our youth, "Word was brought to the Danish King
+that the love of his heart lay dying"? I can see Mrs. Lawrence sitting
+at the table, and reading it in her full rich voice. I don't remember
+now who wrote it, but I am sure you will--and Copenhagen looks
+singularly unpoetical and modern. We found W. on the balcony when we got
+back, with his papers and his cigar, just tired enough after a long
+day's work in the Museum to appreciate a quiet hour. It has been warm
+all day, and is still. We felt the difference as soon as we turned into
+the streets, and we haven't the river under our windows as we had at
+Stockholm, and always a breeze.
+
+    4 o'clock.
+
+Richard and I are just back from an expedition to Tivoli--the great
+garden here. We dined quietly at home, and I tried to persuade W. to
+come with us to the garden, but he declined absolutely, so we left him
+talking and smoking with General Appert, and we two started off in a
+fiacre. We were rather pleased with ourselves and the way we got along
+in a strange place and a strange tongue. We even made out strawberries
+and cream--"med" and something else I forget now. I don't know which was
+strawberries and which was cream, but we got them, and _med_ was
+evidently one or the other. The garden is very pretty, very well
+arranged, with every variety of entertainment. We sat and listened to
+the band (a very good one, military) while we had _med_ and ----, and
+then went into one or two of the small theatres and concert halls. All
+this too was modern, might have been Paris or London. We saw one or two
+of our diplomatic friends disporting themselves at one of the theatres
+where there were "poses plastiques" very well done. I think they were
+"en garçon"--the pink flower hats they were alongside of didn't give me
+a family impression.
+
+We rather enjoyed our evening lounging about. A fortune teller, a rather
+pretty girl, evidently wished to tell our fortunes, _that_ we made out
+by signs and the cards she had spread out before her, but we didn't
+think our knowledge of the Danish tongue was sufficient to understand
+all she would tell us of a brilliant future. Richard is delightful to go
+about with. He likes to see everything and know about everything, and
+certainly succeeds in some curious way getting all the information he
+wants. W. was poring over his notes when we got back. We told him all
+our experiences, and then talked a little about our day to-morrow.
+
+    Friday, June 29th.
+
+It has been frightfully hot all day. I stayed at home all the morning.
+W. and Richard went off early to the Museum. I had a visit from
+Kergorlay. He has an interesting face, is a widower, poor fellow, with
+four children, one boy of two and a half. They say he is so devoted to
+the children. I told him I should like to see them, and he will send
+them--at any rate we shall see them to-morrow night, as we dine at the
+Legation. Richard came back to breakfast. He said it was cool enough
+in the Museum, and we started off for the Thorwaldsen Gallery. Of course
+some of the statues and has reliefs are very fine, but they are
+enormous, almost more than life size. We went on to the Frauen Kirche to
+see his statues of the 12 Apostles which are there. They were strangely
+familiar. We must have seen them reproduced in plaster at home. Both St.
+Peter and St. John I knew quite well, and didn't like them much. While
+we were loitering about the church the suisse told us a wedding was just
+going to take place, it might perhaps amuse us to see it, so we stepped
+into one of the side aisles and saw the cortége. The bride was the
+regulation white-veiled figure, I think she had a _green_ wreath (it may
+have been myrtle like the German brides), the man was in uniform. What
+was really interesting was the dress of the two pastors. They wore black
+coats with white ruffles, just as they did in Luther's time. That
+reconciled me a little to this very uninteresting town.
+
+It was still very warm, but we did a little shopping, photographs and
+one or two trifles. Richard leaves to-night at 7.30, and we shall dine
+early with him. He is to stop a day or two with Mary at Meiningen, pick
+up his mother who is there, and bring her back to France. Mary wanted us
+to come, and I wish we could have managed it. It would have been nice to
+have been there all together, and they would have enjoyed hearing all
+our impressions while they were so absolutely fresh, particularly
+Charles, who leads a very quiet life now ever since his accident at the
+Quai d'Orsay. It is extraordinary how the last thing seen remains in
+one's memory. Already Moscow and that splendid pageant is fading a
+little, and I see Stockholm, and the green islands, and the dancing
+river.
+
+    Saturday, June 30th.
+
+It is still frightfully hot--not a breath of air. I have made as much of
+a draught as I can by opening the door into the passage. It isn't very
+convenient, as we are just at the head of the big staircase, but I have
+put a high-backed arm-chair between me and the passers by. It was really
+very warm until 11 o'clock last night. We dined downstairs with Richard,
+and were very sorry to see him go. Then we went to Mrs. Baldwin (the
+Admiral had gone off for two days) to ask her if she would drive with
+us. We made the usual turn, the only variety being our tea place--we
+take a new one every time. The gérant of the hotel explains to the
+coachman where to go, and he chooses very well. It was lovely driving,
+and so cool on the top of the cliff that we walked about a little after
+tea. There is always a long, clear evening, not like Russia, but still
+very pleasant and pretty, such a soft light over everything. The moment
+we turned away from the sea back into the town we felt the difference,
+but the long drive had cooled us. I have asked for my breakfast upstairs
+in the salon. I really can't dress and sit in that hot room in this
+weather. W. is at the Museum, but comes back at 4 with the Director, who
+is to show us some of the treasures of the town. I am getting on very
+well here with "La Guerre et la Paix," as I am not distracted all the
+time as I was at Stockholm. I think you would like it, the _Russian_
+side of Napoleon's great campaign is so interesting, also the
+pictures of the society of Moscow at that time, which they say is
+extremely well done.
+
+W. came in about 4, not very warm, as he says the rooms of the Museum
+are cool, with such thick walls, and while we were waiting for Monsieur
+Warsoe, the Directeur, Mr. Vivian, English Minister, paid us a visit. He
+is very anxious we should come and see them at Elsinore, says it is most
+interesting (all memories of Hamlet). I should like it extremely, but W.
+thinks we must get home. I liked Vivian very much. He talked very easily
+about everything--he is going to dine with us at Kergorlay's, says all
+the colleagues are most anxious to hear about the Coronation. M. Warsoe
+appeared about 4.30 and we drove at once to Rosenburg, an old château
+where there is a fine collection of all sorts of things. Some of the
+Danish porcelain was lovely, also some fine tapestries. They showed us
+with much pride their trésor, jewels, and gold and silver services, but
+really after Moscow and the quantities of gold, silver, enamel, crowns,
+and jewels of all sorts that one had seen the others made no effect,
+though of course there were some handsome stones, rubies. What I did
+like was the 4 lions (couchant) of massive silver, which are always put
+at each side of the throne whenever there is a great ceremony at Court.
+They must look splendid.
+
+We went again to the Frauen Kirche, as W. had not seen it, and the
+second time I liked the Apostles better, a little better. I think it was
+too hot, and I was too tired when I was there before. We drove out to an
+old bridge, which was curious, and in some old street where I had never
+penetrated. The trams worry me, they are so frightfully civilized and
+up-to-date, however they were crowded, so evidently the Danes are not of
+my way of thinking.
+
+Our dinner at Kergorlay's was very pleasant and handsome. Adelaïde was
+again frightfully put out at my garment, and she is right, it is really
+a street dress, and this time there are several women. I don't know why
+I didn't keep out _one_ evening dress. It was rather stupid to send
+everything back. However, I made my excuses to the ladies, and said I
+was "en touriste." They were all very élégantes, though they were all
+already settled in the country, and went off about 10 o'clock by the
+last train. Kergorlay's children came in before dinner. The eldest girl
+is 10, and the baby two and a half. It was so pathetic to see them in
+their white dresses and black sashes and to think whom the mourning was
+for. The dinner was very gay. We had Count and Countess Toll (he is
+Russian Minister here, and a brother of Countess Pahlen), Marochetti
+(Italian Minister) and his wife (a Frenchwoman, née Grandval), Vivian
+(she didn't come, was in the country and rather exhausted with the great
+heat), General and Madame Appert, and two secretaries. Count Toll was
+very keen to hear all about Moscow, and what we thought of the great
+show (he speaks English quite well). I told him we were enchanted, and
+that one of the great features was Comte Pahlen with his velvet coat and
+white staff of office with a big sapphire at the top. He certainly took
+no end of trouble, and looked his part very well. They all seem to like
+Copenhagen pretty well, except for the climate, which seems most trying.
+Countess Toll was in white with handsome pearls. I felt rather like a
+pensionnaire in my simple little dress--foolish, too; I ought to have
+known better.
+
+We got home quite early, so I can still have a little Tolstoy before I
+go to bed. Adelaïde instantly inquired what the other ladies had on and
+was much put out. "C'était Madame l'Ambassadrice qui était le plus
+mal"--"oh! cela oui, et de beaucoup." I suppose it reflects upon the
+femme de chambre when the mistress is not up to the mark.
+
+    Sunday, July 1st.
+
+It is still frightfully hot. I did not go out all morning, though they
+sent a notice of services at the English Church. We shall leave
+to-morrow night for Hamburg. W. says two days more of medals will give
+him all he wants. After breakfast I went to see Mrs. Baldwin, whom I
+found gasping, sitting with open doors and windows; also Madame Appert,
+who looked quite cool and comfortable, as did her two daughters, pretty
+girls; however, they said they didn't feel cool. When I got back to our
+rooms I found several cards, and then Mrs. Hoffman appeared. She was
+very nice and friendly, sent all sorts of messages to you and Anne, and
+wished Anne would come and stay with her at Elsinore. She likes
+Copenhagen very much, says the people are friendly and hospitable and
+invite the diplomats; also that some of the country places are very
+fine, quite in the English style. She made a great appeal to me to come
+to Elsinore with her this afternoon, I could come back to-morrow in
+plenty of time for the night train, but I couldn't manage. W. was still
+at the Museum, and would have been in a great state of mind if he had
+come home and found not me but a note saying I had departed for
+Elsinore. While she was still here, young Moltke appeared, our compagnon
+de voyage from Helsingfors to Stockholm. He hopes to be sent to Paris or
+London. I told him if it was Paris he must look us up. He is a very nice
+young fellow, very good-looking, tall, and fair.
+
+We have had our usual drive. We dined at 5 and started out rather
+earlier. If possible there were more people than we had ever seen
+before, as it was Sunday and fête. All Copenhagen, high and low, were on
+their way to the Deer Park. A stream of conveyances of all descriptions,
+some peasants' carts with straw at the bottom filled with women and
+children, everybody in a good humour. There were fewer officers riding,
+and fewer big boats on the sea, but endless little pleasure yachts. As
+we came back it was really a pretty sight, all the cafés, casinos, etc.,
+brilliantly lighted, all the villas, too, and people sitting on the
+verandas, some playing cards, some at tea tables, some walking about in
+the gardens, we could see the light dresses fluttering about in the
+shrubberies; animation, laughter, voices, music everywhere. We stopped
+as usual for tea at one of the high casinos--the sea blue and calm at
+our feet some distance down, and the whole summer out-door life of
+Copenhagen behind in the woods and hills. It was delicious driving back,
+and even the streets were pretty to-night, so many people, and the cool
+air such a relief after the terrible heat of the day. We have decided to
+start at 8.30 to-morrow evening.
+
+I tried to glean some information from a Danish paper this afternoon.
+Col. Hoffman told me that if one knew English or German one could read
+Danish quite well, giving oneself a little trouble, but I can't say that
+was my experience. It might have been Hebrew for all I made out. I
+suppose I didn't keep at it long enough. It doesn't sound easy when one
+hears the language spoken all about one, rather harsh. I mastered a
+little Swedish (to understand it) much more easily.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Copenhagen#,
+    Monday, July 2d, 1883.
+
+The heat is something awful to-day,--I think the worst day we have had.
+I was up early, as the salon is cooler than the bedroom, more doors and
+windows. W. is off to his medals until 5, and we leave to-night for
+Hamburg. The trunks are made (almost for the last time), as we shall
+stay only one night in Hamburg, and arrive in Paris Thursday morning. I
+had a nice visit from Kergorlay. He can't come to the station to see us
+off, as he dines with the King in the country, but will send his
+chancelier to see about places, luggage, etc. We talked a great deal
+about his children. He feels such a responsibility, and it is hard for a
+man to have such a young family to look after. He said their mother was
+so devoted to them--it seems hard she couldn't have been left to them a
+little longer.
+
+I breakfasted downstairs, had a little talk with the Apperts, and then
+went to the reading-room for a little while to see if there was any
+news. The Comte de Chambord is very ill, dying they say. I wonder if his
+death will make any difference now--I suppose not. He has been only a
+memory practically all these years, as he never came to France, and only
+a few, a very few fidèles clung to him in his exile. I must say I rather
+admired him always. According to his lights (limited I grant), he was
+absolutely consistent.
+
+I had another visit from Col. Hoffman, who came to see if we were really
+going to-night. We have a despatch from Richard saying that we will have
+much difficulty in getting into any hotel in Hamburg--the town is very
+full. There are races going on, also a scientific congress of some
+kind--however, the proprietor of this hotel says it is all right, they
+will keep us rooms. W. came in at 5, having been working steadily since
+9.30 this morning. He took a cordial leave of the various Conservateurs
+and Directors, but thinks they were not sorry to see him go, and take up
+their quiet life, two or three hours a day in the cabinet instead of 6
+or 7.
+
+My next letter will be from Hamburg--and after that I will _tell_ all I
+have seen and done, which will be much easier than writing.
+
+    #Railway Station, Kiel, 7 A.M.,#
+
+    Tuesday, July 3d.
+
+We have two hours to wait here, so I will scribble a line to you, which
+will help to pass the time. We got off very early last night. Some of
+the young men from the Legation were waiting at the station with a
+servant to help us with our baggage. It really was not necessary, as we
+have only two trunks, and the porter of the hotel is most helpful and
+energetic. It was very warm even at that hour, and the compartment was
+stuffy, a good many passengers. We got to Korsoe about 11. The boat was
+directly opposite the station, and we went on board at once. There was
+some delay getting the baggage on board, so we sat quietly on deck and
+had our tea, and cooled off. The cabin felt so hot when I went down to
+leave my things that I couldn't make up my mind to install myself,
+particularly as the crossing (the Belt) was short, about 5 hours. The
+Captain said we should arrive between 4 and 5 at Kiel. We stayed on deck
+till nearly one o'clock. It was a lovely night, the sea quite calm, but
+a good breeze once outside, which freshened considerably as we drew away
+from the land.
+
+I went down about one, but didn't get much sleep, and was quite ready to
+go up on deck when they called me at 4.30, and said we were approaching
+Kiel. Almost all the passengers were on deck. The approach is not
+particularly interesting. I heard two gentlemen discussing us in
+English. They had seen our trunks all labelled _Waddington,
+Couronnement_, had taken renseignements from the Captain, who assured
+them W. was the French Ambassador. They thought he must be mistaken.
+"That man is an Englishman--he is speaking English now to the lady--I
+have heard them talking always in English. They certainly are not
+French." They hovered about us, and then looked rather bewildered, for
+Adelaïde came up to ask me something, and then W. and I finished our
+talk in French. We speak sometimes French, sometimes English, it depends
+upon our milieu.
+
+The harbour is fine as one gets up to it. How hard for the Danes to give
+it up, and how they must hate the Germans. We got off about 5.30. The
+city was still wrapped in sleep. We walked about a little, and it was a
+curious sensation to walk about in apparently a dead town. We had some
+breakfast at the station, and have been out again. Then (7 o'clock) the
+town was quite lively, workmen moving about. We shall start in about a
+quarter of an hour, and have about two hours and a half to Hamburg. The
+long wait here has been tiresome, nearly three hours. The movement on
+the water and the quais was amusing, but really until after 7 not a soul
+was stirring, at least not in this quarter, and no trains coming or
+going.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Hamburg#,
+    Tuesday, July 3d, 1883.
+
+No words can tell, Dear, how uncomfortable we are, hot and cross. We
+arrived at 11, after a very hot, dusty journey. The town is crammed,
+even at this hotel where they had kept rooms for us (and such nasty
+little rooms, a small salon, giving on the street it is true, so that we
+can see all that goes on, and two minute bedrooms on one side) we can't
+get our trunks, nor apparently our breakfast. The hotel people are quite
+affolés. There are races (with a German Prince of some kind either
+presiding or running horses, I can't make out which), "a horticultural
+show, a cattle fair, (and an anniversary of something)."
+
+We said we would take a carriage this afternoon and drive about the
+city, and we might just as well have asked for a balloon--nothing to be
+had before 7 o'clock. I should think every carriage in Hamburg was
+out--quantities of all kinds and large omnibuses are passing under the
+windows, filled with women in light dresses, and a generally festive
+appearance. They hope to give us one then.
+
+We have had breakfast--the dining-room large, fairly cool, and empty (as
+it was late everyone had breakfasted and flown). They brought us the
+Figaro. The Comte de Chambord is dead, and the Comte de Paris starting
+for the funeral. Just as we had got upstairs again the man of the hotel
+came and asked if Madame l'Ambassadrice de France would receive Madame
+l'Ambassadrice de France. We were rather puzzled, but said of course we
+would receive anyone who came, and in walked M. et Mdme. de Courcel, and
+M. de Pina, our Consul here, M. de Sancy, the military attaché at
+Berlin. We were delighted to see them. The Courcels had been paying a
+visit to the Duke of Sagan in his splendid place, and, being not far
+from Hamburg, had come on to see the town. They were going to the races
+with M. de Pina, and wanted us to come, but we didn't care to (and
+indeed I don't know how we should have gone, as they had a small
+carriage which just held them, and we had none). M. de Pina asked us to
+dine with the Courcels at 8.30, and that we were very glad to do, as the
+prospect of a dinner in the big dining-room, with all the crowd of
+hungry people back from the various festivities, was not alluring. Pina
+told us as we couldn't get a carriage we had better take one of the
+small steamers that ply about in the inner harbour, and have an hour's
+sail. He was sure we would find it pretty and interesting. It would
+certainly be cooler than sitting in that stuffy little salon.
+
+There is nothing to see now in the streets, as the whole population is
+out of town, and the rumbling of carriages has ceased for the moment. W.
+is lying back in an arm-chair, with a cigar, in his shirt sleeves,
+groaning with the heat; and very hot it must be to reduce him to that
+state. I have a theory that no Waddington knows what heat means. No
+words can describe what I feel. Certainly fine feathers make fine birds,
+and I think no one would recognize the gold embroidered, bejewelled
+couple that went in the coupé d'Orsay to the gala dinner at the Palace.
+
+    11 o'clock.
+
+We are just in from the Consul's dinner, and as it is cooler in the
+salon with the windows open than in my room, I will finish my letter
+to-night. We start to-morrow morning at 9 o'clock for Cologne and Paris.
+Now that we are getting so near I am very homesick for the boy, and for
+my own house. The constant moving about and living in hotels for the
+last fortnight has been tiring. I have got nothing left either to say to
+anybody--I have described the Coronation so many times that it is almost
+mechanical now--the words come by themselves--a steady stream, like the
+paper that rolls off the telegrams. I think I should never do for a
+_permanent_ Ambassadress if six weeks of functions have exhausted me
+physically and mentally. As usual tho' last impressions are the
+strongest. I have already forgotten Moscow a little, and see the journey
+from Petersburg to Stockholm more clearly than anything else. I am sorry
+now that I didn't write a regular journal. Almost all the gentlemen did,
+and it would have been no trouble if I had made up my mind to it, and
+written regularly, but unfortunately my writing-table at Maison Klein
+was on the court, and as soon as I established myself all sorts of
+interesting things immediately began to take place under the window, and
+the ink was bad and thick, and I got it all over my fingers, and even up
+in my hair--I hate so to write.
+
+We sat all the afternoon indoors until 6 o'clock, when a little breeze
+sprang up, and we walked down a few steps only to the wharf from which
+the little steamers sail. It is about an hour, the tour round the lake,
+or inner harbour--quite charming--all the shores covered with pretty
+houses and villas, with lawns, and gardens full of flowers, sloping down
+to the water's edge. One would never have dreamed of finding anything so
+pretty and so _country_ in this very business-like place. Many of the
+villas had nice little jetties and piers that ran out quite far into the
+water, and pretty boats and boat-houses. It seemed incredible to find
+all this so close to the hot, crowded hotel where we had been all day.
+The boat was quite full--principally business men going back to dine and
+sleep at their country houses--all Germans--we were certainly the only
+foreigners on the boat. It rather reminded me of Staten Island at
+home--the afternoon boat with all the business men on board, only one
+didn't have the broad expanse of the beautiful New York Bay, but a small
+land-locked lake.
+
+The sail and breeze (such as it was) revived us, and we had time to
+dress comfortably for our dinner. We didn't see the great port--divined
+it only, with the forest of masts of all sizes.
+
+Our dinner was very pretty and pleasant. Our host was some time in
+Holland, and has some lovely specimens of blue Delft, and some fine
+carved furniture. We had only M. and Mdme. de Courcel (who arrived very
+late, having been caught in the file of carriages coming from the
+races), M. de Sancy, the first magistrate of the city, the Burgomaster,
+all in black, a plain tight coat, with a white fraise, very stiff and
+high around his neck, and a long gold chain. Also two of the principal
+merchants of Hamburg--the Courcels were staying with one of them, as
+they could get no rooms anywhere. The house was almost shut up--all the
+family out of town, and a femme de charge to look after them. They said
+the rooms were very comfortable, and they took their meals at a
+restaurant or with M. de Pina, who is certainly most hospitable.
+
+W. was delighted to see Courcel and tell him all about the Coronation,
+and his impressions of all the people he had seen. The Burgomaster, too,
+was very keen to hear what we thought about everything. He is a clever
+old man, speaking French fairly well. They all evidently think there is
+much discontent in Russia, and some day there will be a great
+upheaving--de Sancy told me that Radziwill, Aide-de-Camp to the German
+Emperor, told him that our equipages, horses, etc., were so good. We
+thought so, but were not perhaps quite impartial. Richard says we all
+used to sit up talking after every ceremony, and say how well we did
+things.
+
+After dinner M. de Pina showed us some of his curios, which are
+interesting and very well arranged. One of the two merchants, I quite
+forget the name, has a beautiful villa on the Elbe, some little distance
+from Hamburg, and wants us very much to come and make them a visit. I
+was much tempted--it would be amusing to see a bit of German business
+life, and I think W. would not have minded if the invitation could be
+accepted at once--but we would have to remain on here for two days, as
+the gentleman is going somewhere else before he goes home, and really
+two days in these horrid little rooms would be impossible. M. de Pina
+told us the villas of some of these merchant princes are beautiful, with
+splendid gardens and all the luxe that money can give. He says they
+spend much more for their country houses than for their town
+establishments.
+
+We broke up about 10, as everyone was tired. It was a beautiful
+moonlight night, so we told our coachman to take us round by the great
+port. It was most curious. The water was black except just where the
+streak of moonlight fell on it, and there were thousands of ships of all
+kinds from all quarters of the globe--smoke coming out of the chimneys
+of some of the big steamers, evidently preparing for an early start
+to-morrow morning, and _millions_ of masts tapering up against the sky.
+Lights in every direction, some high, some low, and even at that hour of
+the night little boats flying about. One saw a dark object start off
+from the wharf--suddenly stand out well crossing the moonlight streak,
+and then disappear--there was a constant sound of oars and row-locks,
+and long creaking noises like pulleys, and heavy things being hoisted on
+board a ship. They say the animation, and noise, and dust, and _smells_
+are extraordinary in the daytime--but at night-time all looked extremely
+picturesque.
+
+    #Cologne Gare#, 10 o'clock Mercredi soir,
+    4 Juillet.
+
+We got off this morning at 9.30 from Hamburg, and had a long, hot, dusty
+journey--nothing very pretty to see. We arrived here about 6.30, found
+the Consul, Mr. Brandt, waiting at the station with a carriage. He
+proposed a drive--going first to the Cathedral, to see it by daylight,
+and then to dine with him at the station, where there is a very good
+restaurant, so we sent all our small things over to the private room,
+and started off to the Cathedral. I was delighted to see it again after
+so many years. Do you remember it was the first European Cathedral we
+saw after Notre Dame, that first year when we came down the Rhine. How
+magnificent it is, outside and inside--the long, stately vaulted aisles,
+so high and so still. There was no one in the church at that hour, and
+we had a delightful half hour. We walked all around the outside, and
+then went back to the station to dine--and a very good dinner it was, in
+the same room where we breakfasted when we started for Russia, now
+nearly two months ago, when all seemed so vague, and rather a plunge
+into the unknown. We shall certainly have souvenirs for all our lives.
+
+As we were finishing dinner the Chef de Gare came to say that a
+"lit-salon" was reserved for us, and he would have all the "kleines
+gepack" put into the compartment, and tell us at the last moment. The
+train starts at 10.30, and we get to Paris at 10 to-morrow morning, so
+we thought we would go out again and drive about a little, as we had so
+long to wait. We had a nice turn in the moonlight--the Cathedral looked
+beautiful, and we crossed the Rhine and drove some little distance on
+the other side of the river to have the view of the city. Now one or two
+Frenchmen who are here are talking to W. They have brought us tea, and I
+am scribbling this to you.
+
+It is delightful, Dear, to think that to-morrow at breakfast I shall be
+telling you all this, and Baby sitting up in his high chair, looking at
+me hard out of his round, blue eyes. There is _one_ good thing in
+getting home, I needn't write any more letters.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Paris#,
+    31 #rue Dumont d'Urville#,
+    July 5th, 1883.
+
+We got back this morning at 10 o'clock. The journey was very
+comfortable--there is nothing like those French "lits-salons." Our
+departure from Cologne was rather amusing. The Chef de Gare summoned us
+at the last moment--all the passengers had taken their places, the doors
+were shut, officials careering up and down the platform, and _yet_ the
+train didn't start. Various heads were put out of the windows, and one
+or two irate gentlemen inquired what they were waiting for, and why
+didn't we start. Then we appeared strolling leisurely down the platform,
+with a small suite of gentlemen, officers, etc. The adieux were again a
+little long, and really one man was bursting with rage, and not at all
+mollified when he heard it was an Ambassador returning to France after
+the Coronation; "he supposed Ambassadors could be as punctual as anybody
+else, and when an express started at 10.30, it was 10.30 for everybody."
+
+We were very pleased to find Hubert and the coupé waiting for us at the
+Gare de l'Est, and Baby and Nounou in the street at the door of the
+porte cochère.
+
+Well, the Moscow Coronation is over--I wonder what the next turn of the
+wheel will bring us.
+
+
+
+
+PART II
+
+TEN YEARS IN ENGLAND
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Boulogne-sur-Mer#,
+    August, 1883.
+
+Here we are after all settled for a month at the sea. I really needed
+the change and the sea-air after the fatigues of Moscow, and I was glad
+to get out of my own house, which is still crowded with boxes and huge
+cases labelled _Waddington Couronnement_, which now will not be
+unpacked, but go direct to London, as all the Court dresses, gala
+liveries, harness, etc., will be needed there.
+
+We decided just at the last moment to come here, and consequently
+couldn't get a house near the big hotels in the real "quartier des
+baigneurs," so we have taken one quite the other end of the town near
+all the fishing boats. They are a never-failing attraction. We love to
+see them go out, and, above all, come in, when all the women,
+bare-legged, and with flat baskets on their backs, go out to meet them
+and bring in the fish. W. wanted us to come here, as he was in London
+and thought he would often get over from Saturday to Monday.
+
+I made my first visit to the Embassy on the 15th of August (Journée de
+l'Assomption). W. thought I had better come over and see the house
+before arriving in November to take possession. We started quite
+cheerfully. It was warm and bright with a good breeze--a few white-caps,
+but nothing out of the way. We saw the boats dance a little as they came
+in, but didn't realise what a gale was blowing until we got on board of
+ours. The wind was howling through the rigging, and the Captain told us
+he couldn't start, as the wind was blowing the water off the bar. It
+increased very much while we were waiting, and several passengers left
+the boat and stayed over in Boulogne until the next day. However we had
+promised to go; we are fairly good sailors, and W. had just two idle
+days he could give us in London--so we started. It was certainly the
+worst crossing I have ever made. The boat rolled and pitched terribly,
+we shipped heavy seas all the time, and arrived at Folkestone shivering
+and drenched. All the way to London we felt little streams of water
+running down our backs, and our hats were a curiosity--filled with water
+like a bowl. We emptied them on the quay, but the feathers, of course,
+were finished. We were met at Victoria by two swell young secretaries,
+in evening dress, with gardenias in their button-holes, who had come to
+meet their Ambassadress; and I have wondered since what impression they
+had of the limp, damp, exhausted female they extracted from the reserved
+saloon carriage. It was only a few minutes' drive to the Embassy at
+Albert Gate, where we were received by a stout porter and a most
+distinguished "groom of the chambers," dressed in black, with a silver
+chain around his neck. We dined alone in a fair-sized dining-room, with
+splendid Gobelin tapestries on the walls. W. came in about 11, having
+had a man's dinner with Gladstone.
+
+[Illustration: The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London]
+
+The next day we went all over the house, which is neither handsome nor
+comfortable. It is high and narrow, like a cage, with no very large
+rooms, and a general appearance of dinginess and accumulated dust.
+However, the Minister has promised to paint and clean, and to do over
+the small drawing-room entirely, just as I like. Of course I shall have
+blue satin--you remember how I always like blue everywhere, on me and
+near me. The situation is delightful, on the Park--just at Albert Gate.
+The windows and balconies of the drawing-rooms give on the drive, and
+the "Row" is so near that I could easily recognise horses and riders.
+The season is practically over, but I have just seen a pretty group
+pass; a lady mounted on a fine chestnut and a child on each side of her
+on nice, small fat ponies; close to the little girl, about eight years
+old, with her fair hair streaming down her back from under a blue cap,
+rides an old groom, evidently much pleased with his little lady's
+performance, and watching her so carefully.
+
+Our inspection of the house took us all the morning. The kitchen,
+offices, servants' hall and rooms are enormous, and in very bad order. I
+should think it would take weeks to get it clean and habitable, and need
+an army of servants to keep it so. I am thinking rather sadly of my
+little hotel in Paris, so clean and bright, with not a dark corner
+anywhere.
+
+We went out driving in the afternoon, and I had my first experience as
+Ambassadress, as the coachman drove down Constitution Hill--a right of
+way reserved for Royalties and the Corps Diplomatique. We went straight
+to Mrs. Brown, the famous milliner, in Bond Street, to get ourselves new
+hats, as ours were quite impossible after our very lively passage, and
+the housemaid at Albert Gate had a handsome present of two hats with
+drooping feathers and a strong smell of sea and salt. London was of
+course empty, but a few carriages were in the park, and it amused us to
+drive about and see all the shops, and the general look of the streets,
+so different from Paris.
+
+We spent our evening quietly at home looking over our installation with
+W., horses, carriages, servants, and in fact the complete organisation
+of a big London house, which is so unlike a French one. I shall bring
+over all my French servants and add as many English as are necessary. I
+don't quite see Hubert, our French coachman, driving about the London
+streets, and keeping to the left. I should think we should have daily
+discussions with all the drivers in London; however, we must try. I
+wonder if I shall like being an Ambassadress, and I also wonder how long
+we shall stay here. My brother-in-law R. says perhaps two years.
+
+We got back three days ago--started on a bright summer's day. The
+Ambassador and secretaries came down to the station to see us off, and
+W. promised to come over and spend Sunday. We had an ideal
+crossing--blue sky, bright sun, and few passengers, and, notwithstanding
+our hard experience in the first passage, we are glad to have been over
+and made acquaintance with the personnel of the Embassy, also to have
+seen the house and realized a little what I must bring over to give it a
+look of home.
+
+This morning we have the news of the Comte de Chambord's death, and I am
+wondering if it will make any political complication. However, for years
+past he has only been a name--a most honourable one certainly--but one
+wants more than that to deal with the present state of France.
+
+After all W. never came over. Although London was empty, he had always
+some business to attend to, and on Sunday usually went to see some
+friends in the country. Last Sunday he spent with Lord Granville at
+Walmer, which he said was delightful. The castle so close to the sea
+that the big ships passed almost under the windows; Granville himself a
+charming host. He knows France and the French well, having been a great
+deal in Paris as a boy when his father was British Ambassador to Louis
+Philippe (1830-4); Lord Palmerston was then British Foreign Secretary.
+
+We are very busy these days making our "pacquets," as we leave in three
+days. I am sorry to go, as I have so much enjoyed the quiet life with
+the sisters and the children. We have seen few people, as we are not in
+the fashionable quarter, but we have become most intimate with all the
+fishing population. The young women and girls jibe at us when we go
+shrimp fishing, on terms of perfect equality--there are no distinctions
+in the sea--because we have not the sleight of hand necessary to jerk
+the shining, slippery little fish into the basket from the net. Some
+local swell, the Mayor, I think, came to see me the other day, and was
+told I was on the beach, so he came down and was much astonished when
+they pointed out to him Madame l'Ambassadrice in a hat and feathers,
+diamond ear-rings, very short skirts, and neither shoes nor stockings,
+walking up to her knees in the water with a fishing-net in one hand and
+a basket in the other, and followed by her little son and niece
+similarly equipped, all quite happy and engrossed with their sport. We
+have one or two country visits to make, and then I must have some time
+in Paris to dismantle my house and make my preparations for London.
+
+
+    _To J. K._
+
+    #Mersham Hatch, Ashford, Kent#,
+    Wednesday, November 28, 1883.
+
+You will say I am taking up my old habits of writing to you always from
+the country, but you cannot imagine how busy I have been in London since
+I came over just 2 weeks ago to-day.
+
+We came down here Monday afternoon to stay with W.'s old college friend
+and cousin, Charles Monk. The house and park are charming--quantities of
+large, comfortable rooms, and capital shooting. The gentlemen brought
+down a great many pheasants yesterday. The party in the house are Lord
+and Lady Abinger and Miss Scarlett, Sir George and Lady Chetwode, Mr.
+Leveson-Gower, a brother of Lord Granville, with a most polished
+courteous manner; a Mr. Price W. Powel, and a young Wm. Gladstone,
+nephew of the Premier. Monk has no wife, and three unmarried daughters;
+the eldest, Julia, does the honours very well and simply. I absolutely
+declined the 9.30 breakfast and asked to have my tea sent up to me.
+
+Yesterday I came down about 12, took a little turn in the garden until
+one, and at 1.30 had luncheon. Then we went for a drive to Eastwood, the
+Duke of Edinburgh's place. The house is not so large as this, but the
+park is charming, with quantities of deer. We had tea when we came
+in--some of the gentlemen appeared and we dined at 8, all the ladies
+most gorgeous in satin, lace, and diamonds, the girls generally in
+white. After dinner we talked a little, then some of them played whist,
+and the young ladies sang. This morning the gentlemen have started again
+shooting, and I shall sit in my room quite quietly until 12, which gives
+me an hour and a half with the ladies before luncheon.
+
+[Illustration: The Dining room of the French Embassy, London,
+Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries]
+
+    Thursday, 29th.
+
+W. is off again "running for partridges," whatever that may mean, and at
+3 we go back to London. He has a big dinner somewhere to-night.
+Yesterday two ladies came over to luncheon, and in the afternoon Julia
+Monk and I took a drive in the pony carriage to meet the sportsmen, who
+had a very busy day. In the evening we made a little music, Miss
+Scarlett played very well. I expect to be very busy all this next week
+in London. The workmen will be out of the drawing-rooms, and I shall get
+all kinds of little odd tables and chairs and unpack my own bibelots.
+The carriages arrive, too, and we must decide about horses. Two English
+giants are engaged as footmen, of equal height, to go on the gala
+carriage, and we have our own two Frenchmen, one of whom is very tall.
+He and Adelaïde came down here with us, and Adelaïde is much entertained
+at the respect with which she is treated. She looked quite a swell
+yesterday with her black silk dress, but she says the other maids are
+much more dressy, attired in black velvet and satin and open dresses.
+Soon there will be nothing left for the mistresses.
+
+I will stop now, as I must be down a little earlier this morning. I hope
+you will soon be settled in Washington, and that the children will have
+no more scarlet fever or measles complications.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #French Embassy, Albert Gate#,
+    December 1, 1883.
+
+I am gradually settling down, but everything, hours, service, habits,
+servants, is so different that I still feel rather strange. I quite
+sympathised with Francis, who was already unhappy at leaving Paris and
+his dear "Nounou," and very much put out with his new German governess
+who was deadly ill crossing. His woes culminated on arriving at Albert
+Gate, when he was solemnly conducted upstairs by a very tall footman to
+his room (a nice large nursery and bedroom giving on the Park), and he
+wept bitterly and refused to eat any dinner or to have his coat and hat
+taken off. A great many people have been to see us, and we shall have
+some quiet dinners--and a shooting party at Mr. Monk's one of these
+days.
+
+The shooting party at Mr. Monk's was pleasant. He has a fine large house
+and capital shooting. The ladies walked about a little and followed some
+battues, and everyone assembled in the drawing-room for tea. All the
+women in full dress and diamonds for dinner.
+
+Our Harcourt dinner was pleasant. Sir William is charming--such an easy
+talker, with no pose of any kind. It is decided that Lady Harcourt
+presents me to the Queen. Lady Granville is away, and it falls upon her
+as wife of the Home Secretary. Sir William had been to Windsor, and had
+told the Queen of the curious coincidence--the French Ambassadress, an
+American, presented by the wife of the British Home Secretary, also an
+American,[8] and an amie d'enfance of Mrs. Waddington. I had some little
+difficulty in finding out what I was to wear (as there is little
+etiquette at the English Court upon these occasions), but they finally
+told me ordinary visiting dress, so I shall wear my blue velvet. We go
+down to lunch and see the Queen afterward.
+
+[8] Lady Harcourt is a daughter of the late John Lothrop Motley, the
+historian.
+
+    December 7, 1883.
+
+I have had my audience to-day, and will write to you at once while I
+still remember it all. First I must tell you about Francis. He heard
+someone asking me the other day if I had been yet to see the Queen. I
+saw his face change a little, so when we were alone, he said,
+tremulously, "Tu vas voir la Reine?" "Oui, mon fils." "Est-elle toujours
+si méchante?" "Mais la Reine n'est pas méchante, mon enfant." "Elle ne
+vas pas te faire couper la tête?" Evidently his mind had been running on
+the Tower of London, where we went the other day, and where the block on
+which Anne Boleyn and Lady Jane Grey had their heads cut off was of
+course shown. When he heard I was going to see the Queen, his heart
+failed him, and I had some difficulty in comforting him, and explaining
+that sovereigns in these days didn't have recourse to such extreme
+measures (at least in civilised countries. I suppose the Shah of Persia
+wouldn't hesitate to dispose of a head that was in his way).
+
+Lady Harcourt and I started for Paddington at 1 o'clock, and got to
+Windsor a little before two. We found a landau with two servants in
+plain black liveries waiting for us, and we drove at once to the Castle.
+It was a beautiful bright day, but snow had fallen heavily in the
+country, so that the old gray walls and round towers stood out
+splendidly as we drove up. We drove through several courts and finally
+drew up at an entrance where there were five servants in the royal red
+liveries with crape on their sleeves (all the Queen's household are
+always in mourning), a big Highlander in full dress, and a butler in
+black who ushered us into a large drawing-room with an enormous
+bow-window looking on the Park. Instantly there appeared Lady Erroll,
+lady in waiting, and four maids of honour. Lady Erroll shook hands and
+introduced the maids of honour, who made us low curtseys. Then came Lord
+Methuen--Lord in waiting--and we went at once in to luncheon. Everything
+was served on silver plate; there were four footmen and a butler, but
+the repast was of the simplest description--an ordinary English
+luncheon--roast mutton, fowl, pudding, apple-tart, etc. After luncheon
+we talked a little, and then Sir Henry Ponsonby appeared to give Lady
+Harcourt her last instructions. It was the first time she had presented
+an Ambassadress in a private audience. Precisely at three a servant in
+black appeared and said, "Will you come to see the Queen?" Lady
+Harcourt, Ponsonby, and I proceeded down a handsome long corridor filled
+with pictures, vitrines, of china principally, and old furniture, to a
+room at one end where a footman was standing. Sir Henry opened the door,
+Lady Harcourt made a low curtsey at the threshold, saying, "I have the
+honour to present the French Ambassadress," and then immediately backed
+herself out, and I found myself in the room. I made a first low curtsey,
+but before I had time to make another the Queen, who was standing in the
+middle of the room with Princess Beatrice, advanced a step, shook hands,
+and said, with a very pretty smile and manner, "I am very glad to see
+you." She asked me to sit down, and talked a great deal, was most
+gracious, asked me if I was getting accustomed to the climate and the
+stairs, whether I had seen all my "colleagues," and how many children I
+had. When I said one little boy whom I had left in London, she asked me
+what he was doing; I thought I would tell her about his fears for his
+mother's head, so I replied he was trembling at home until his mother
+should return. She looked a little surprised, but was really amused, and
+laughed when I told her his preoccupations; said, "Poor little boy, how
+glad he will be to see his mother back with her head on her shoulders."
+
+Princess Beatrice took no part in the conversation. She looked smiling
+and very intelligent. The Queen was very simply dressed in black, with
+her white widow's cap and veil, no ornaments, but a gold chain and
+pearls around her neck, and a medallion with a portrait of a man in
+uniform, whom I supposed to be Prince Albert. I think the interview
+lasted about fifteen minutes. Then the Queen arose, shook hands, and
+said she hoped my husband and I would like the life in England. Princess
+Beatrice shook hands--I backed myself out, and it was over. I was very
+much impressed with the Queen's personality. She is short, stout, and
+her face rather red, but there is a great air of dignity and
+self-possession, and a beautiful smile which lights up her whole face.
+
+I never could find out any minor details in dress, as to taking off
+veil, gloves, etc., but I did as I had done with other Royalties and
+took off veil and gloves, which I hope was right.
+
+Lady Harcourt and Ponsonby were waiting for me in the corridor, and
+seemed to think my audience had been longer than usual--were also
+surprised that the Queen made me sit down. It seems she sometimes
+receives standing all the time, at a first formal presentation.
+
+As we had some little time before starting for the station, Ponsonby
+showed us part of the Castle. The great halls, St. George's and
+Waterloo, are very fine, and it was interesting to see the great
+pictures which one has always seen reproduced in engravings--the Queen's
+Marriage, Coronation, Reception of King Louis Philippe, Baptism of the
+Prince of Wales, etc. One room was beautiful, filled with Van Dycks. We
+went back to the station in the same carriage, and Lady Harcourt and I
+talked hard all the way home. It was certainly a very simple affair; as
+little etiquette as possible, but the Castle was fine. The old gray
+fortress and its towers and crenellated walls, the home of the sovereign
+who lives there with little pomp and few guards--guarded by her people,
+in the same Castle, and the same surroundings as when she began her long
+reign, a mere girl. When one thinks of all the changes she has seen in
+other countries--kingdoms and dynasties disappearing--one can realise
+what a long wise rule hers has been. It is such a contrast to my last
+Royal Audience at Moscow, which now seems a confused memory of Court
+officials, uniforms, gold-laced coats, jewelled canes (I can see one of
+the Chamberlains who had an enormous sapphire at the end of his staff),
+princes, peasants, Cossacks, costumes of every description, court
+carriages, Russian carriages, the famous attelage of three horses, every
+language under the sun, and all jostling and crowding each other in the
+courts of the Kremlin--with its wonderful churches and domes of every
+possible colour from pink to green--only soldiers, soldiers everywhere,
+and the people kept at a distance--very unlike what I have just seen
+here.
+
+    Sunday, December 16, 1883.
+
+This afternoon we have had our audience of the Prince and Princess of
+Wales--W. and I together. We got to Marlborough House a little before 4,
+and were shown at once into a room on the ground floor, where we found
+Miss Knollys and a gentleman in waiting. In a few minutes Sir Dighton
+Probyn, comptroller of the household, appeared and took us upstairs to a
+large, handsome salon. He opened the door, and we found the Prince and
+Princess standing. The room was filled with pretty things. The Princess
+was dressed in blue velvet (I too--I daresay Fromont made both dresses),
+and looked charming, no older than when I had seen her in Paris three or
+four years ago, and with that same beautiful slight figure and gracious
+manner.
+
+[Illustration: J J Jusserand Counsellor of the French Embassy, 1883
+
+Recently appointed French Ambassador to the United States
+
+From a photograph by Walery, Paris]
+
+While the Prince and W. were talking she asked me a great deal about
+Moscow and the Coronation, and particularly if the Empress was well
+dressed always, as she had been rather bothered with the quantity of
+dresses, manteaux de cour, etc., that she was obliged to have. The
+Prince remembered that I was the granddaughter of Rufus King, who had
+been United States Minister to London under George III. He was very
+pleasant, with a charming, courteous manner. The Princess instantly
+referred to Francis and his fears for his mother's head, of which she
+said the Queen had told her.
+
+    Friday, 21st.
+
+This afternoon we had tea with the Duke and Duchess of Albany. She is a
+German Princess, and was rather shy at first, but when the tea came it
+was easier. The Duke is very amiable, talks easily. He looks, and is, I
+believe, delicate. We have a few dinners before us, and I am gradually
+getting to know all my colleagues. Mohrenheim is Russian Ambassador;
+Münster German; and Nigra Italian. Münster is practically an Englishman.
+His second wife was Lady Harriet St. Clair, a sister of Lord Rosslyn. He
+is evidently English in his tastes and habits, rides regularly in the
+Park, and drives a coach with four chestnuts that are known all over
+London. Mr. Lowell is United States Minister, and is much liked and
+appreciated in England. Mrs. Lowell is in bad health and goes out very
+little.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    January 5, 1884.
+
+This afternoon we had our audience from the old Duchess of Cambridge. We
+found her in handsome rooms in St. James's Palace, and one lady in
+waiting with her. She was lying on a sofa--she is very old,
+eighty-four--has seen and known everyone, and talks easily both French
+and English. It really seemed a page of history to listen to her. She
+asked us to come back, and Lady G. told us that when she felt well,
+visits were a great pleasure to her, and also that she was always glad
+to see any members of the French Embassy.
+
+We got home to tea--and then I had various skirmishes with the servants.
+It really is difficult to make French and English servants work
+together. The butler is an Englishman, and directs all the men of the
+house. It is not easy to make the Frenchmen take their orders from him.
+They all want to be in direct communication with me. There are always
+two together in the hall--one Frenchman and one Englishman, and the
+result of that is that when anything goes wrong, and the bell is not
+answered, the Frenchman tells me he was not there, it was the
+Englishman's turn; and of course the Englishman the same--so now I have
+told Holmes (the butler) to make me out a regular paper every Monday
+with the men's names and their hours of service--Yves et George, 10-12;
+William and Charles, 12-2--I hope that will work. As to Hubert he hasn't
+driven me yet. He goes about London all day in a brougham, with one of
+those non-descript English servants, half French, half English, that we
+got from the British Embassy in Paris. I find the domestic part of the
+Embassy rather a bore, but I suppose things will settle down. The
+housemaids are a delightful institution, though I was amazed upon
+inquiring one day from my own maid as to who was a young lady with a red
+velvet dress, and a large hat and feathers, I had met on the stairs,
+when she replied, "C'est Alice, Madame, la seconde fille de chambre." It
+seems that my maid remonstrated with her for spending her money on
+clothes, to which she replied that all housemaids in big houses dressed
+like that, and that she herself would be ashamed if she dressed as
+plainly as my maids. The two thrifty Frenchwomen were scandalised.
+
+[Illustration: The Duchess of Cambridge
+
+From a photograph by Walery London.]
+
+    #London#,
+    January 9, 1884.
+
+I paid a visit to-day to the Dowager Lady Stanley of Alderley. I found
+her at her tea-table in her drawing-room, with Mr. Gladstone having his
+cup of tea with her, and talking easily and cheerfully about all sorts
+of things (never a word of politics); no one would have imagined that he
+was to make a great speech that evening in the House. He really is an
+extraordinary, many-sided man. In the course of conversation the talk
+fell upon the Roman Catholic religion, and its extension in many
+countries, _particularly in America_. He said, turning to me, that a
+great friend of his, an American, Mr. Hurlbert, certainly the most
+brilliant talker he had ever heard, and one of the most intelligent, had
+told him how much the Roman Catholic religion was gaining ground in the
+Northern States of America. I rather demurred to his statement, even
+though it came from Mr. Hurlbert. His intelligence and brilliancy are
+undeniable, but I should have thought his views were a little fantastic
+at times. "I rather agree with you," said Mr. Gladstone; "but I have
+recently had letters from my friends Bishop P. of New York, Bishop A. of
+Massachusetts, and other distinguished Churchmen in the United States,
+who tell me that the Roman Catholic religion is making certain progress;
+their preachers are so clever, and know so well how to adapt themselves
+to the liberal views they must have in America." We then talked some
+time about the various Bishops and clergymen he knew in America, the
+slight difference between the two Prayer Books, etc. One would really
+have thought it was a Church of England clergyman, who has passed all
+his life studying theological questions. A few moments after something
+turned his thoughts in another direction, and he was discussing with
+Lady Stanley the translation into English of an Italian sonnet which he
+thought was badly done. "Too literal, really not understanding the
+poetry, and the beautiful imagination of the writer." It was
+extraordinary. I was rather mortified when he asked if I knew the two
+Bishops. I didn't, but it is fair to say he understood when I said how
+many years I had been away from America.
+
+Lady Stanley is a delightful old lady. She has seen and known everyone
+worth knowing in Europe for the last fifty years, and it is most amusing
+to hear her down-right way of talking. She was killing over the
+"Professional Beauties," a style of modern woman she couldn't
+understand. She asked me to come in again and have a cup of tea with
+her, and I shall certainly go, as one doesn't hear such talk every day.
+
+We dined with Mr. Childers, and there was a big reception in the
+evening, with all the celebrities of the Liberal party, the Harcourts,
+Hayters, Lord Northbrook, Tennyson (son of the poet), and many others,
+but of course in a crowd like that one can't talk. I hope I shall
+remember the faces. About 11 o'clock we went on to Lady Stanhope's,
+where there was a big reception of the Conservative party. There I found
+the Lyttons and some few people I knew, and many more were presented.
+They were all talking politics hard; said the Ministry couldn't last
+another week, as there is to be a vigorous attack on them in both Houses
+on Tuesday. Everyone says the Lyttons are going to Paris when Lord Lyons
+leaves. She will be a charming Ambassadress, and he is so fond of France
+and so thoroughly well up in French literature that they will be
+delighted to have him in Paris.
+
+The political talk was exactly like what I have heard so often in Paris,
+only in English instead of in French, and the men talking more quietly,
+though they abused one another well, and with less gesticulating. Also
+they don't carry politics into private life as they do with us; the men
+of opposite sides lavish abuse upon each other in the House, but there
+it ends, and they meet at dinner and chaff each other, and the wives are
+perfectly intimate. In France there is a great gulf between parties,
+even moderates, royalists, and republicans, and I was astounded when I
+first mixed in political life in France to see people in society turn
+their backs upon some perfectly distinguished, honourable gentleman
+because he had not the same opinion as themselves in politics.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Sandringham#,
+    January 12, 1884.
+
+We arrived this afternoon at two o'clock, and I am writing in my room,
+as we have come up to bed, and the gentlemen have retired to smoke. We
+came down at 2-1/2, found a saloon carriage reserved for us, and the
+Mohrenheims installed--father, mother, and daughter. We got to Wolverton
+at six, one of the Prince's gentlemen was waiting for us with two or
+three carriages and footmen. We had all sent our servants and baggage by
+an earlier train, as it had been suggested to us. The house looked large
+and handsome as we drove up. The party was assembled in a great hall,
+with a long low tea-table at which the Princess presided. It was easy
+enough, and I should think a nice party. The Goschens, Lady Lonsdale,
+the Master of Magdalen, Lord Carlingford, and others. The three young
+Princesses, Prince Eddy, and the Prince were all there. We talked some
+little time and then the Princess said Miss Knollys would show us our
+rooms. I found two large comfortable English rooms opening into each
+other, a blazing coal fire in mine, which I immediately proceeded to
+demolish as much as I could. Miss Knollys had told us not to bring low
+dresses--merely open bodices.
+
+We went down to the drawing-room about 8-1/2, and a little before 9 the
+Prince and Princess and Prince Albert Victor (better known as Prince
+Eddy) came in. The dinner was handsome and pleasant, footmen in royal
+red liveries, men in black in culottes and silk stockings, and a
+Highlander in full dress, who stood behind the Prince's chair, and at
+the end of the dinner walked solemnly round the table playing the
+bagpipes. The evening was pleasant. The Prince showed us the new
+ballroom just redecorated with Indian stuffs and arms, and at 11 we went
+upstairs with the Princess, bidding her good-night at the top of the
+stairs, and the men went to the smoking-room.
+
+    Sunday.
+
+This morning we went to church, the ladies in an omnibus with the
+Princess and her three daughters, and the gentlemen walked across the
+Park, the Prince appearing as the sermon began. It is a pretty English
+country church in the grounds. In the afternoon we walked about the
+grounds; I was much interested in the large stables, where there are
+certainly over fifty horses.
+
+We had changed our dresses after lunch for walking, and the Princess
+looked marvellously young in her short walking skirt and little toque.
+One could hardly believe she was the mother of her big son, twenty-one
+years old. After the walk we assembled again in the big hall for tea, a
+substantial meal with every variety of muffin, crumpet, toast, cakes and
+jam that can be imagined, but it seemed quite natural to consume
+unlimited quantities after our long walk. The Princess and English
+ladies were in very dressy tea-gowns, velvet and satin with lace and
+embroidery; Madame de Mohrenheim and I in ordinary tailor costumes. The
+evening was pleasant; I remarked the absence of the Highland piper at
+dinner, and asked the Prince if he was not going to play. "Oh, no," he
+said, "not on Sunday, he certainly wouldn't; I shouldn't like to ask him
+to, and if I did I am sure he wouldn't do it." We all leave to-morrow,
+the Prince going with us to London. We have enjoyed our visit very much,
+the Princess always charming and lovely to look at, and the Prince a
+model host, so courteous and ready to talk about anything.
+
+    Monday.
+
+We got off this morning at 11 o'clock. There is one curious custom. The
+Prince himself weighs everyone, and the name and weight are written in a
+book. Some of the ladies protested, but it was of no use, the Prince
+insisted. One young lady weighed more than her father, and was much
+mortified.
+
+I went downstairs to breakfast, which I don't generally do; I keep to my
+old habit of a cup of tea in my room. It was a most informal meal. None
+of the Royal family appeared, except Prince Eddy, who was going to hunt,
+and his red coat made a nice patch of colour. All the rest of us sat
+down anywhere, and the servants brought the menu. We travelled up with
+the Prince in his private car, and had luncheon in the car, served by
+two tall footmen, and everything on silver plate and hot. The Prince
+himself quite charming, talking a great deal, and seeing that everyone
+had enough to eat. I should think all servants, railway guards, and
+small functionaries generally would adore him. He has always a pleasant
+word and a smile.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    January 31, 1884.
+
+We have had two days in the country with the D.s at their little hunting
+box at Bicester, one of the great hunting centres. It was my first
+experience of an English hunt and hunt ball, and amused me perfectly.
+The house is small, with enormous stables and splendid horses. His four
+in hand is well known, one of the best in England, and the coach and
+servants so perfectly turned out. We have two young German secretaries,
+good-looking Teutons, and two girls who have just returned from a four
+months' excursion in the tropics with the Brasseys in their beautiful
+yacht, the "Sunbeam."
+
+We started on the coach on Tuesday at 10.30, well wrapped up, as there
+were occasional showers and violent gusts of wind, particularly when we
+stopped at crossroads to see which way the hunt was going. The meet was
+at Middleton Park, Lord Jersey's fine place, and the park was a pretty
+sight as we drove up. A good many people, almost all the men in pink,
+but not so many women as I had expected to see. We really followed very
+well, as D. knows the ground perfectly and apparently at what spot the
+fox was to cross the road, which he did close to us, followed by the
+whole hunt, all jumping out of the field on to the road and back again
+into the other field, very good fences, too, but the horses evidently
+knew just what they had to do. We drove about till 3 o'clock, and then
+went back to Middleton to have luncheon. We found a most hospitable
+table, and it was funny to see the people dropping in at intervals, some
+of the men in their red coats, one or two ladies, and two or three
+children who had been scampering about on ponies. Evidently the meal had
+been going on for some time, and the supply inexhaustible; we had a very
+good hot luncheon.
+
+After lunch Lady Jersey (who is charming, very intelligent, and
+interested in everything) showed us the house. Beautiful pictures and
+old furniture, a massive silver table that was the dressing table of
+Queen Elizabeth. Of course we hadn't time to really see all the
+interesting things in the house, as it was getting late, and we still
+had a fair drive before us. Notwithstanding the good and late luncheon
+we were very glad to have tea when we got home. I certainly eat much
+more here, I suppose it is the climate, and then the food is a little
+different from what we are accustomed to, and I think very good.
+
+The hunt ball was really very pretty, the ballroom well arranged with
+foxes' heads, brushes, etc., all the men in pink. Everyone was "en
+train," and everybody of all ages dancing. I should think W. and D. were
+the only men in the room who didn't dance. They went home about 12, but
+H. and I stayed until 2. We heard afterward that the Master of Hounds
+was much depressed all the evening, as he knew he must take the French
+Ambassadress to supper (of course, he didn't know that I was American
+born, and could speak English), and the prospect of a long conversation
+in French with a woman he didn't know filled him with dismay. However we
+made friends (in English), and I hope he didn't find the supper hour too
+tiresome. There are two reasons why an Englishman hates to speak French;
+first, a sort of natural timidity which they all have more or less, and
+then a decided objection to doing anything he doesn't want to do, or
+which bores him. This country is certainly a Paradise for men, from the
+nursery days when all the women of the household--nurses, maids, and
+sisters, are slaves of the boys, to manhood, when equally all the women
+do exactly what the men want, and regulate their lives to suit the men
+of the family, who have everything their own way.
+
+    #London#,
+    February, 1884.
+
+I made my début in the official world last night at a reception at Mr.
+Gladstone's in Downing Street. There were four large men's dinners (and
+receptions afterward) for the opening of Parliament. Lord Granville and
+Mr. Gladstone, Ministerial; Lord Salisbury and Sir Stafford Northcote,
+"Her Majesty's Opposition."
+
+The Gladstone house is small and dark (that is one of the things that
+strikes me here--the rooms are so much less lighted than in Paris), and
+always the chintz covers left on the furniture, which makes the rooms
+look ordinary. We found a great many people there. The Duke of Cambridge
+had been dining and was presented to us. He looks a fine old English
+soldier (was in uniform), was very amiable, and spoke to me in French,
+which he speaks very well. Quantities of people were presented to me, I
+can't remember half the names. Almost all the women were in black,
+half-high and no display of jewels. Mrs. Gladstone is an old lady, very
+animated and civil, she wears a cap, with blue ribbons, rather as I
+remember Mother. I was also presented to Countess Karolyi, Austrian
+Ambassadress, very handsome, and charming manner; she speaks English as
+well as I do. It seems strange to me to hear so much English spoken, it
+is so long since I have been in a purely English salon. W. brought me up
+various old friends of Rugby and Cambridge days; also some of the minor
+diplomats, as of course I have not yet seen all my colleagues.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    February, 1884.
+
+I am rather bewildered by the number of people I see and the quantity of
+cards left at the Embassy. I shall have to ask an English friend of mine
+to look over my list and tell me who the people are, and, above all,
+which cards I must return personally (or even make a personal visit) and
+which can be distributed by the Chancellerie. I drive about every
+afternoon for two hours leaving cards, and as no one has regular
+reception days here as in Paris, I rarely find people. We have had
+various dinners, political chiefly, at Mr. Gladstone's, Lord Stanhope's,
+Lord Northbrook's, a child's party at Marlborough House, which was very
+pretty. Francis made great friends with the two charming little
+daughters of the Duchess of Edinburgh, and sat between them at tea, the
+Duchess herself supplying them with cakes and sandwiches.
+
+Yesterday there was a pleasant dinner at Lord Granville's. Two tables of
+12; one presided over by him and one by Lady Granville. Her table was
+covered with red tulips, and his with yellow--nothing but flowers on the
+table. The drawing-rooms are large and handsome, and he has some
+splendid pictures. One thing seems curious to me--all the furniture at
+this season is covered with ordinary chintz housses or coverings--and
+the effect is strange with all the guests in full dress, diamonds and
+orders, servants in powder and breeches. We would never dream of doing
+it in Paris. When we have distinguished people of any kind to dine we
+make our salons as pretty as possible, and would want particularly to
+uncover our handsome furniture. Here it seems they consider that the
+season only begins after Easter.
+
+Apropos of powder, it was rather an affair to put the two French footmen
+in powder, as they of course had never worn it or seen it. Francis was
+much excited at Yves' appearance in blue velvet breeches and powder,
+Yves being a young Breton, his own special attendant. I think the maids
+powdered him in the laundry. However Francis came flying downstairs
+holding the reluctant Yves by the hand, to my room, saying, "Oh, Maman,
+viens voir Yves, il est joli, joli!" with the youth naturally much
+abashed at being so complimented in my presence.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    February 29, 1884.
+
+We are commanded to Windsor this evening to dine and sleep. It is
+inconvenient, as we have to put off a dinner of twenty-one people. The
+chef is tearing his hair, as of course all his dinner is ready. When my
+maid came to pack the trunks she had rather a flustered look; I thought
+it was on account of the Windsor visit. Not at all. It seems a friend of
+Juteau's (our chef), who is also a chef in one of the great houses,
+heard that we were going to Windsor, so he wrote him a note telling him
+that his wife (my maid) must be well dressed and take a low or open
+bodice to Windsor for their dinner. The maid was most indignant for
+being supposed not to know what was right, and answered the note saying,
+"she had accompanied her mistress to every court in Europe, and knew
+quite well how to dress herself."
+
+    #Windsor Castle#,
+    March 1, 1884.
+
+Our dinner last night went off very well, and was not so stiff as I had
+expected. We took the 6 o'clock train from Paddington, and found the
+Russian Ambassador, Baron Mohrenheim, and his wife at the station. At
+Windsor two or three carriages and footmen were waiting, but no equerry
+as at Sandringham. We were driven to a side door at the Castle, where
+two servants in plain black were waiting, who showed us at once to our
+rooms. We had a pretty apartment furnished in yellow satin, with
+beautiful pictures, principally portraits; a small salon with a bedroom
+on each side, bright fires burning, and a quantity of candles. They
+brought us tea, beautifully served all on silver, with thin bread and
+butter (no muffins or toast), and almost at the same moment Sir John
+Cowell, Master of the Household, came to pay us a visit. He told us who
+the party was, said dinner was at 8.45, that a page would come and tell
+us at 8.30, and that we should assemble in the great corridor. Quite
+punctually at 8.30 they notified us, and we proceeded down the long
+corridor, W. in black breeches and stockings (no order, as he hadn't the
+Légion d'Honneur, and couldn't wear a foreign order), I in white
+brocaded velvet and diamonds. We found the party assembled, the
+Mohrenheims; Lord and Lady Kimberley; Nigra, Italian Ambassador; Lady
+Churchill (who was in waiting); Lord Kenmare (Lord Chamberlain), and
+Lord Dalhousie (Lord in waiting) and one or two other men. We moved up
+to a door just opposite the dining-room, and about 9 the Queen came with
+the Duchess of Edinburgh and Princess Beatrice. She shook hands with me
+and Madame Mohrenheim; bowed very graciously to all the others, and
+passed at once into the dining-room alone. Mohrenheim followed with the
+Duchess of Edinburgh; Nigra with Princess Beatrice; W. with Madame
+Mohrenheim; and Kimberley took me. The table was handsome, covered with
+gold and silver plate, quantities of servants in red livery, plain
+black, and two Highlanders in costume behind the Queen's chair.
+
+The conversation was not very animated. The Queen herself spoke little,
+and the English not at all--or so low that one couldn't understand
+them--however, my Ambassador couldn't stand that long, so he began
+talking most cheerfully to the Duchess of Edinburgh about Moscow,
+Kertch, and antiquities of various kinds, and as the Duchess is clever
+and inclined to talk, that corner became more lively. I can't say as
+much for our end. I think most Englishmen are naturally shy, and the
+presence of Royalty (the Queen above all) paralyses them.
+
+[Illustration: Windsor Castle]
+
+After dinner, which was quickly served, we all went out as we had come
+in, and the Queen held a short cercle in the corridor, in the small
+space between the two doors. She stood a few minutes talking to the two
+Princesses, while she had her coffee (which was brought for her alone on
+a small tray), and then crossed over to Madame Mohrenheim and talked a
+little. She sat down almost immediately, Madame Mohrenheim remaining
+standing. She then sent for me, Lord Dalhousie summoning us all in turn.
+She was very gracious, saying that she could not yet stand or walk,
+which worried her very much--asked me a great deal about my life in
+London, did I find everything very different from Paris, and had I found
+little friends and a school for Francis? The conversation was not easy.
+She sat on rather a low chair, and I standing before her had to bend
+down always. She was dressed in black, with her usual little cap and
+veil, opal necklace, diamonds and orders. While she was talking to the
+others the two Princesses moved about and talked to us. It was
+pleasant--the whole cercle lasted about an hour. The Queen and
+Princesses retired together, all shaking hands with me and Madame
+Mohrenheim, and bowing to the others. We finished the evening in the
+drawing-room with the household, staying there about half an hour, and a
+little after eleven we broke up. W. has gone off to smoke--at the
+extreme end of the Castle, as the Queen hates smoke and perhaps doesn't
+know that anyone dares smoke here--and I am writing with about twelve
+tall wax candles on my table.
+
+It is a bright moonlight night, and the Castle looks enormous. A great
+mass of towers, vaulted gateways, walled courts, and the beautiful grass
+slopes that look quite green in the moonlight. The lights at the far end
+seem like twinkling tapers. It is certainly a magnificent Royal
+residence.
+
+    Saturday, March 1884.
+
+We got back for lunch, leaving the Castle at 10.30. We breakfasted with
+the household at 9.30; no ceremony, people coming in as they liked, and
+sitting down anywhere. We loitered a little in the corridor until it was
+time to start, looking at the pictures, portraits, and the curious
+cabinets and the bits of old furniture which are interesting.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    March 14, 1884.
+
+To-day was our first Drawing-room, and we turned out in great force, I
+had three secretaries' wives. We had out our two carriages. W. and I in
+the gala carriage with Count de Florian, Secretary of Embassy, Hubert
+driving us, and two English giants behind; then came the landau with
+merely one footman on the box, all in full dress livery, blue breeches,
+silk stockings, and powdered wigs. There was a great display of troops,
+and a crowd waiting on the pavement outside the door at the Embassy to
+see us start. There are no porte-cochères in London, so you go straight
+out into the street to get your carriages, and a carpet is kept in the
+hall, which is rolled down the steps every time you go out. The streets
+were crowded as we came near Buckingham Palace.
+
+We entered the Palace by a side entrance, leaving our wraps in one of
+the rooms, and went up the great staircase, which was a pretty sight.
+Quantities of plants and flowers and a long procession of women with
+handsome Court dresses, splendid tiaras, and a few men in uniform--of
+course women preponderate. We walked through various rooms all filled
+with Court functionaries, officers in uniform, and finally arrived in
+the large salon opening into the Throne-Room where all the Corps
+Diplomatique and English people who had the entrée were assembled.
+Countess Granville, wife of the Foreign Secretary, Earl Granville,
+looked most distinguished, tall and fair, in black with a handsome
+tiara. Countess Karolyi, Austrian Ambassadress, was beautiful in her
+Hungarian costume and splendid jewels. The Russians also most
+picturesque in their national court dress, red velvet trains heavily
+embroidered in gold, white veils spangled with gold, and the high
+head-dress (kakoshnik) in velvet studded with jewels.
+
+When the doors were opened the Foreign Secretary and his wife passed
+first and took up their station close beside the Princess of Wales, to
+name the members of the Corps Diplomatique. Then the Master of
+Ceremonies gave his hand to the Doyenne--the Austrian Ambassadress--her
+train was spread out by two pages,--and they entered the Throne-Room,
+making low bows or curtseys on the threshold. One makes 3 curtseys; one
+on entering the room, one half way and a third as one gets close to the
+Princess. We followed quickly, I with my ladies coming directly behind
+the Russians. The Court was small--Princess of Wales, Princess Beatrice,
+Prince of Wales and Duke of Cambridge. The Princess, a charming graceful
+figure dressed in dark velvet with coloured embroideries and jewels and
+orders; Princess Beatrice in mauve, and the two Princes in uniform of
+English Field Marshal. The Princesses shook hands with us chefesses and
+bowed to the young ladies--the Princes the same. There was no sort of
+trouble about the train; they are down only for a moment, just as you
+pass the Queen or Princess--a chamberlain picks them up most adroitly,
+puts them in your arm, and one never gives them a thought. As soon as we
+had passed the group of Princes we turned into a deep window recess and
+stood there until the end. That was most amusing, as we faced the door
+and saw everyone come in. It amused and interested me extremely to see
+how differently people passed. Most of the women looked well, their
+fresh, fair skins standing the test--and a pretty severe one it is--of
+full dress, white feathers and veil at three in the afternoon of a cold
+March day. Many had been dressed since 12, first sitting a long time in
+their carriages, and then waiting a long time in the drawing-room at the
+Palace, until their turns came. They were generally timid and nervous
+when they passed--some bracing themselves as if they were facing a
+terrible ordeal, some racing past very quickly, forgetting to take their
+trains in their arms, and pursued down the room by an impatient
+chamberlain, and some, especially the débutantes, making carefully and
+conscientiously the low regulation curtsey to each Prince, and trembling
+with shyness. When the last person had passed the Court turned and made
+us bows and curtseys--the Princess' half curtsey is charming--and it was
+over. We all got away quickly.
+
+The great hall was an interesting sight, filled with women and uniforms
+of every kind, and a band playing in the great square. We had the usual
+"Drawing-room tea" to show our dresses. I wore the blue embroidered
+Court dress I had made for Moscow, with blue feathers and diamond tiara.
+All the English women wear white feathers and veils, which naturally
+does not suit everyone, particularly if they are not well put on. Some
+of the coiffures were almost eccentric, one rather high feather, and a
+long one very low running down one's back. The young men were pleased,
+as they had many compliments for our carriages and liveries. We were the
+only Embassy that had out two carriages.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #London#,
+    May, 1884.
+
+We went to the Derby this morning with Lord Cork. I had never been, and
+W. not for many years. We went down by train--(special, with the Prince
+and racing coterie) and I enjoyed the day. We were in the Jockey Club
+box, and it was a curiosity to see the crowd on the lawn, packed tight,
+and every description of person, all engrossed with the race, and wildly
+interested in the horses. There was almost a solemn silence just before
+the Derby was run. This time there was a tie, which is rare, I believe.
+It was rather amusing driving home from Victoria, as all the balconies
+along the road were decorated, and crowded with people, but I believe
+the great fashion of driving down had almost disappeared. Nearly
+everyone now goes down by train.
+
+    #London#,
+    June 28, 1884.
+
+This morning H. and I went to the second meet of the Coaching Club on
+D.'s coach. It was a pretty sight; a bright beautiful morning and Hyde
+Park crowded with equipages, riders, and pedestrians--quantities of
+pretty women all much dressed, principally in white, with hats trimmed
+with flowers, and light parasols. The tops of the coaches looked like
+flower beds. Everyone engrossed with the teams, criticising and admiring
+with perfect frankness. The fly-drivers were killing, knew all the
+horses, and expressed themselves freely on the way they were handled.
+
+We drove through the Park, and then on to Richmond (not all the
+coaches), where we breakfasted at the "Star and Garter." The breakfast
+was good, and at dessert we had "Maids of Honour," the famous cakes that
+one always gets there. We walked about the Park a little after
+breakfast; it was delightful under the big trees, and then mounted our
+coach again and went back by Hurlingham to see a polo match. The road
+was crowded and driving very difficult, but D. is a capital whip, and I
+wasn't in the least nervous, though sometimes it did seem as if the bit
+of road they left us was rather narrow. However D. drove straight on
+without slackening--and they do make way for a coach. I think it is a
+sort of national pride in a fine team.
+
+Hurlingham is very pretty and there were quantities of people there. We
+saw very well from the top of the coach, and I must say the game was
+beautifully played. Of course the men all rode perfectly, but the ponies
+were so clever, quite as keen as the riders, and seemed to know all
+about it. We got back to the Embassy about 8, and happily had no one to
+dinner, but sat on the balcony all the evening, W. smoking, and talking
+about his conference, which is not going smoothly. The English are
+stiff, and the people at home unreasonable. I can't imagine how French
+and English can ever work together--they are so absolutely unlike.
+
+    #London#, July, 1884.
+
+W. went to Paris this morning and H. and I are left to our own devices.
+I dined alone at the Speaker's and it was pleasant. After dinner we went
+down to the terrace and walked and sat about. It was so warm that we all
+sat there with bare arms and necks. It was so pretty; boats passing on
+the river, all the bridges lighted, and so cool and dark on the terrace
+that one could hardly recognise the people as they walked up and down. I
+went back to the Embassy to get H., and we went to Devonshire House,
+where there was a big reception--all the world there, and the house very
+handsome, a fine staircase; Lord Hartington receiving us, as the Duke is
+an old man and couldn't stand the fatigue.
+
+[Illustration: M and Mme Waddington and Their Son
+
+From a photograph by Cesar Paris]
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    February 9, 1885.
+
+This morning we have the news of the fall of Khartoum and the murder of
+Gordon. W. is in the country trying horses, so I put on my hat and went
+out into the Row to hear what was going on. It was crowded with people
+talking and gesticulating. The Conservatives furious, "such a ministry a
+disgrace to the country," and a tall man on a handsome chestnut, talking
+to Admiral C. most energetically, "I am a moderate man myself, but I
+would willingly give a hand to hang Gladstone on this tree." They are
+much disgusted--and with reason.
+
+    Monday, February 23, 1885.
+
+It seems to be my week, Dear Gertrude, so I will at any rate begin this
+morning. We are now in full tide of dinners and routs, which last is the
+most frightful species of entertainment that the human mind has ever
+devised. They consist of 400 or 500 people packed close in a house which
+holds about 150--so warm in the rooms that you almost stifle--and so
+cold on the staircase and halls where the door is always open wide that
+I always wonder how I can escape without a fluxion de poitrine. We had a
+banquet ourselves last Tuesday, Harcourts Münsters, Corks, etc.,
+followed by a mild dance, which was however successful, as Pourtalès,
+who is a gay little fellow, led a spirited cotillon, and there were 22
+couples. I performed 2 quadrilles, which, naturally, is the extent of my
+dancing now, unless I take a stray turn with an old partner.
+
+Of course the great excitement has been the departure of the Guards for
+Egypt, as it takes the husbands, sons, and brothers of half London away.
+It does seem such a useless campaign and sacrifice of human life.
+
+There was a child's party at Marlborough House on Friday afternoon which
+was very successful. Mimi and I were bidden, or _commanded_, as the
+correct phrase is, at 4 o'clock, so we took ourselves off, he in his
+white sailor suit, with blue collar, and I in blue velvet. Both Prince
+and Princess were very amiable, and the Duchess of Edinburgh was very
+good to Mimi, as she always is, making him sit by her daughters to see
+the conjuror, and at her table for tea. The children had their tea in
+the dining-room, with a great many little round tables, we had ours with
+the Princess. It is very informal, she always makes it herself, and
+everyone sits down. The Princess Louise was also there, looking very
+nice, and such a pretty figure. After the tea the children had a fine
+romp, ending with a most animated Sir Roger de Coverley, in which all
+the Princes--I mean the 2 younger ones, Prince Eddy and Prince
+George--joined, and all the Aides-de-Camp. We didn't leave till 7--and
+the afternoon was rather long, but still I must say I enjoyed myself.
+
+Yesterday we had a pleasant dinner at Lady Hayter's--a Liberal political
+salon. She has big dinners--receptions every Saturday. It was pleasant
+at first, until many more people came than the house would hold, but
+that is what the "Maîtresse de Maison" particularly aims at.
+
+Everyone here sympathises with Lowell on the death of his wife. She was
+so very peculiar. I wrote him a little note, as he was always very
+amiable to me and complimentary about Father and Grandpa. This evening
+we had a dinner at Julia, Lady Tweeddale's, who is chaperoning her
+niece, Sir Robert Peel's daughter.
+
+    Tuesday.
+
+I couldn't finish last evening, so take up my letter now at 7 o'clock,
+while I am waiting to dress for dinner. It is a quiet dinner at the Miss
+Monks'--two cousins, maiden ladies--and I shall wear a high dress, which
+is much easier to get into. Our dinner last night was pleasant and
+swell--Duke and Duchess of Leeds, Lord and Lady Delawarr, Lord and Lady
+Claud Hamilton (she a beauty, with a fine figure; he an attractive
+Irishman, son of the Duke of Abercorn) and others. They danced
+afterwards, and we stayed till 12 o'clock. The pose of the fast young
+married set is not to dance. There is no one to dance with, the Guards
+are gone. The Row was lovely this morning, like a May day, everybody
+out. I hope to begin to ride again next week. I am in treaty for a very
+handsome chestnut, if the man will come down a little in his price.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    February 25, 1885.
+
+We have been to-day to the House of Lords to hear Lord Salisbury speak
+and the vote of censure passed. The House was full--the Prince and Duke
+of Cambridge there. Lord Salisbury spoke well; very calm, very nasty for
+his adversaries, and as he had the beau rôle he was much applauded. The
+defence was weak, the orator feeling evidently that his cause was a bad
+one, and the temper of the House against him. I should think Lord
+Salisbury would be a most unpleasant adversary, though always perfectly
+courteous in manner.
+
+
+    _To J. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France à Londres#,
+    Monday, March 9, 1885.
+
+This is my week again, Dear Jan, and I will begin to-day.
+
+We are going on in a wildly dissipated manner. Last week was very full.
+We went to a very pretty ball given by the Artillery Company of London
+to the Prince and Princess. The Duke of Portland, a young fellow, is
+colonel of the regiment, and the thing was very well done. Both Prince
+and Princess danced several times. The supper was very pretty. When it
+was ready everybody made a line all down the ballroom, and then the
+procession, with the Princess first and the Duke of Portland, then the
+Prince with me and various other Princes and swells, walked down the
+long room, the band playing the "British Grenadiers," and all the people
+bowing and curtseying. The Royal party supped on a platform and there
+were 1,000 people seated at supper at long narrow tables, everyone
+looking hard at the Princess.
+
+    Thursday, 12th.
+
+I never got any further and never have had time since, but I will begin
+this morning and finish my letter this evening. To-day is the first
+Drawing-room of the season. As Countess Karolyi doesn't come, I am the
+Doyenne, and shall have to go in first, led by Sir Francis Seymour. Mr.
+Lowell has asked me to take his presentation. However there is only
+Bessie V. R., Eugene's daughter, who is pleased at being presented by an
+Ambassadress. She will also see the Diplomatic Corps pass. I wish Jess
+were here, and so does Adelaïde, who would be so delighted to dress her.
+Last night we had a very pleasant dinner at Lady Jersey's. Such a
+handsome woman was there, the young Duchess of Montrose. After dinner we
+went to the Speaker's reception, which was crowded, but rather
+amusing--such funny looking people and such dresses.
+
+I am overrun with artists. There are several French artists of all kinds
+here, and I must make them play once, so I have decided upon next Friday
+afternoon. It is my day and I shall invite all the musical and
+entertaining people I know, as of course they all wish to be heard. One
+girl really does play very well on the violin, and wants me very much to
+sing with her accompaniment, which, naturally, I shan't, and another
+sings, not very remarkably, and a third, Marie Dubois, plays really
+beautifully--premier prix du Conservatoire. I will write you all about
+it when it is over.
+
+    7 o'clock.
+
+Well, we have performed the Drawing-room--it was short, not more than an
+hour and a quarter, and I must say very few pretty faces or pretty
+dresses--Bessie V. R. looked very well, very distinguished. She followed
+directly behind me--even in front of my secretaries' wives, and was the
+third lady in the room. There were quite a lot of Princes--Prince and
+Princess of Wales, Prince Waldemar of Denmark, Duke and Duchess of
+Edinburgh, Duke of Cambridge and Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar. Mme. de
+Bylandt, wife of the Dutch Minister, presented Mme. and Mlle. de Brenen,
+Dutch ladies, both mother and daughter handsome and well dressed. The
+Princess looked charming in white and gold. The Duchess of Edinburgh had
+a dark green velvet train. We all came back here to tea and had various
+visitors to look at the dresses, including Baron Pawel-Rammingen,
+husband of Princess Frederica of Hanover, who also happened in and was
+much amused at finding such an étalage of trains--happily we have
+nothing this evening. Next week is the marriage of the Duke of B.'s
+daughter. It is to be at Westminster Abbey and very swell, the Prince
+and Princess going. There is to be a party Tuesday night, where all her
+jewels are to be shown, which they say are splendid. I am sorry not to
+go, but we have a dinner and a dance ourselves. I shall go to the
+wedding. She is small and quiet--rather shy. I don't know whether one of
+those mysterious changes will take place which one sees sometimes after
+marriage--coronets and trains do a great deal. I must finish, as I have
+of course several notes to answer. I hate it so, when people wait for
+answers. I suppose I shall have a fine account of the Inauguration from
+Gertrude. I hope the girls have enjoyed it.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #London#,
+    March 12, 1885.
+
+I went yesterday to say good-bye to Lady R. They are leaving for Bombay,
+where he is named Governor. It is for five years; I think I should be
+unwilling to go so far, and to such a trying climate, but she seems
+plucky enough and will certainly do well.
+
+Francis and I were driving up Constitution Hill yesterday just as the
+Queen arrived, so we had a very good look at her. She was in an open
+carriage with Princess Beatrice and her fiancé, Prince Henry of
+Battenberg (such a handsome man), and the usual escort of Life-Guards.
+She recognised me perfectly, and always has a gracious bow and smile.
+Just before she came one of our English friends who was walking about
+with her daughter (a young girl who had never seen the Queen) suddenly
+spied me (as mine was the only carriage that was allowed to stand) and
+asked me if she and her daughter could get into the carriage with me, as
+that would be such a good chance for the girl to see the Queen. I of
+course was delighted to have them, as Francis and I were alone, and the
+girl saw perfectly. So many English people, except those who go to
+Drawing-Rooms, never get a chance to see the Queen at all.
+
+    Sunday, March.
+
+We have been to Church this morning at Westminster Abbey, such a
+magnificent service. The Dean always gives us seats, and I love the
+music, the boys sing very well, and the hymns are grand as they echo
+through the fine old church. In every direction there is some historical
+souvenir; tombs, old glass windows, tattered flags, crests,--all
+England's past. We walked home through Green Park, and it is curious to
+notice the absence of equipages--so many English people don't take out
+their carriages on Sunday (to rest the horses and let the servants go to
+church), again such a striking contrast to Paris, where every kind of
+conveyance is out on that day. I think of the little grocer near H. who
+goes out every Sunday as soon as it is at all warm with his whole family
+and 2 or 3 dogs in his little covered cart. All the "Société" is out
+also; at the big concerts, reviews, races, etc. Sunday is the great
+Parisian holiday.
+
+This morning before starting I had my head out of the window on the
+other side of the Embassy, looking at the Guards pass on their way to
+the little church just behind the Embassy in Knightsbridge. They came
+down from the barracks at a swinging pace, a fine body of men, the
+sergeants with their canes, and several officers. The band, a very good
+one, plays all the time (to-day they marched to the French tune "Le Père
+Victoire"), and takes up its station, always playing, at the door of the
+church. They play until the last man files in, then suddenly the music
+stops, and the band goes in also. It always interests the French
+servants immensely, the two maids had their heads out too, and said to
+me just now, "C'est bien beau, Madame, quel dommage que cela ne se passe
+pas comme cela chez nous." The service in the Guards' Chapel at
+Wellington Barracks is also a fine one, the chapel filled with soldiers,
+a mass of red (as one sees only their tunics), and the singing very
+good--a little loud sometimes when it is a favourite hymn and all join
+in.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    March 13, 1885.
+
+We have had our second "Drawing-room" to-day, and were asked to come in
+"demi-deuil," as it was the first time the Queen had received any of the
+Corps Diplomatique since the Duke of Albany's death. There are always
+more people when the Queen holds the Drawing-room, as it is the only
+chance so many of her subjects ever have of seeing her. She rarely comes
+to London, and stays only two or three days. She was dressed with her
+little closed diamond crown, the blue ribbon of the Garter, and many
+diamonds. I thought the black becoming generally.
+
+    March 16th.
+
+At our dinner to-day at Lord A.'s Mr. Campbell was next to me, and told
+me he was most anxious to be recalled to the French Ambassador, that he
+had been his fag at Rugby, and had never seen him since. Of course they
+made acquaintance again after dinner, and plunged into all sorts of
+recollections of their school days. The other men who were smoking with
+them said the talk was most interesting and curious, as their careers in
+after life had been so very different. At every turn W. finds someone
+who had been at Rugby or Cambridge with him.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    April 9, 1885.
+
+This morning it is pouring, so I gave up the Oxford and Cambridge boat
+race. W. and Count de Florian started all with light blue rosettes
+(Cambridge). W. was on the umpire boat. Cambridge won easily, which was
+of course a great pleasure to him (having rowed himself so many years
+ago in the Cambridge crew), in the evening. He said he was so much
+cheered when he got up to speak--young men standing on chairs to see
+him--that he had to wait some time before he could begin. He is
+certainly the only foreign Ambassador that ever rowed in the Cambridge
+eight. He was quite pleased when he came home, so many old memories of
+happy boyish days had been brought back. We talked for some time after
+dinner, and recalled all sorts of Cambridge experiences--once when the
+Queen came with Prince Albert to Cambridge the students were all
+assembled in the court-yard as her carriage drove up. It had been
+raining, and the Queen hesitated a moment in getting out, as the ground
+was wet and there was mud. Instantly W. had his gown off and on the
+ground, the others followed his example, and she walked over a carpet of
+silk gowns the few steps she had to make. W. said he had never forgotten
+her smile as she bowed and thanked them.
+
+
+    _To J. K._
+
+    #The Garth, Bicester#,
+    Sunday, April 19, 1885.
+
+I believe this is my week, Dear Jan. I am staying here at a queer little
+hunting box in Oxfordshire with Hilda Deichmann (née de Bunsen). It is
+literally an enormous stable, with a cottage attached, but they have
+added a story and wings and it is the most wonderful-looking place, very
+low--but comfortable. W. went off to Paris Sunday, and I came down here
+last Saturday with Mimi. He is very fond of the children--a big boy of
+11 and a girl of 7--and has enjoyed himself thoroughly. We feel awfully
+cut up at Pontécoulant's death. He has been such a good friend to us,
+and so completely associated with all our political life. It seems
+incredible that a strong man should be carried off like that in 4 days
+from a cold. Henrietta will miss him awfully, as, now that we are so
+much away he was always there and attending to anything she wanted done.
+
+Of course everyone is talking and speculating about the Anglo-Russian
+question. W. thinks the English must fight, and that they will. I think
+this government, with Gladstone at its head, will never make up their
+minds to fight seriously or in time, judging from the way the Soudan
+campaign has been conducted.
+
+We have been driving all over the country, which is charming, flat, but
+all grass (Oxfordshire is a regular hunting country), and since three
+days the weather has been enchanting. Yesterday we made a lovely
+excursion to Blenheim on Deichmann's coach. We picked up 2 neighbours,
+nice, pretty English girls, and had a beautiful drive over the downs.
+Mimi had never been on a coach before, and was in a wild state of
+delight when all four horses galloped up the hills, and they blew the
+horns at all the railway stations and passing thro' the villages. I had
+forgotten how magnificent Blenheim was. The house is rather dismantled,
+as the present Duke has sold all the books and some of the handsomest
+pictures, but there are plenty left--Van Dycks, Rubens, etc., and the
+rooms and halls are splendid. There were lots of portraits of the Dukes
+and Duchesses, from the great Duke down, some curiously like the present
+Churchills, particularly the women. When we had finished sauntering
+through the house, we drove about the park looking for a shady place to
+lunch, and then established ourselves; the horses were taken out, the
+lunch basket opened, and we had a very good lunch on the top of the
+coach. We drove back through Woodstock and stopped for tea at Dashwood
+Park, one of the great places of the country. They gave us tea, with
+every variety of toast, cake, and bread that can be imagined, in a
+beautiful room as large as a church, opening on a stone terrace, and the
+most lovely (English) views of grass meadows and trees, stretching miles
+away. There were quantities of family portraits there, too, but we
+hadn't time to see them. We got home at 7 o'clock, rather exhausted, but
+having had a lovely day.
+
+I began my letter this morning before breakfast and will finish it now.
+The children are off to the woods with the German tutor after primroses,
+but it is too warm for us--so we shall take a walk after tea. I am very
+fond of Hilda Deichmann. She is very clever--knows a great many
+things--draws well, paints well, is a good musician, and is womanly and
+practical. We fraternised from the first moment. We are going back to
+London to-morrow afternoon. Mimi's school begins on Tuesday, and I think
+he has had a good outing for the present. I haven't an idea what we
+shall do this winter. Perhaps when W. comes back he will have some
+plans. With this new Ministry, it is difficult to make any. I am so
+afraid of their proposing some beastly measure, like the exile of the
+Orléans Princes, or something of that kind to be popular before the
+election. The Wales' visit to Ireland seems to be progressing most
+delightfully and much more quietly than people thought. He has such
+wonderful charm of manner. I should think personal contact with him
+would always work wonders. I must stop now or my letter will not go this
+afternoon.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    May 6, 1885.
+
+We had yesterday a typical London _Season_ evening. We dined at Lady
+Vivian's--a large, handsome dinner, everybody rather in a hurry to get
+away, as there were two big parties; Lady Derby's in St. James's Place,
+and Lady Salisbury's in Arlington Street. We drove down Piccadilly with
+much difficulty, getting along very slowly in spite of our "white card,"
+but finally did arrive at Lady Derby's. The staircase was a mass of
+people struggling to get in, an orchestra playing, and about 1,200
+people in rooms that would hold comfortably about half. Of course on
+such occasions one doesn't talk. We spoke to our host and hostess, were
+carried on by the crowd, made the tour of the rooms and got down again
+with much waiting and jostling, as there were two currents coming and
+going. However, we did finally get our carriage, and then with many
+stops and very slowly, got to Arlington Street, where apparently the
+same people were struggling on the staircase, the same orchestra
+playing, and just as big a crowd (I should think the whole Conservative
+party), for though the house is larger they had invited more people, so
+the result was practically the same. We did exactly the same thing,
+exchanged a few words with Lady Salisbury, made the tour, and came home.
+We were two hours performing these two receptions, but I suppose it was
+right to do it once. However, the English certainly enjoy the sight, and
+don't mind the waiting. Lady Jersey, who is a grandmother, told me this
+afternoon she had bored herself to death last night. "Why did you go?" I
+said, "you must know these big political parties by heart." "Oh, I like
+the parties," she said; "only I didn't get to either," and then she
+explained her evening. She started alone in her carriage at 10 o'clock
+for Lady Derby's, was kept waiting an interminable time in Piccadilly,
+and when she finally did reach Lady Derby's door, a friendly link-man
+advised her not to go in as everybody was coming away, and she would
+never get up the stairs, so she turned back and proceeded to Arlington
+Street. She had the same crowd, the same long wait, and when she arrived
+at Lady Salisbury's the party was over, and no one could possibly get
+in. It was then midnight, and she drove home, having passed her whole
+evening since 10 o'clock alone in her brougham in Piccadilly.
+
+[Illustration: The Salon of the French Embassy in London, 1891]
+
+    May 9, 1885.
+
+This afternoon we have had a conférence "sur Racine" in the big
+drawing-room. A good many people came and apparently listened, and I
+hope it may do the young lady good. Mlle. de B. wishes to get up classes
+of French literature for ladies, but I hardly think it will succeed here
+in the season; on a bright day no one will shut herself up in a smallish
+room to hear about Racine, Molière, etc. I was amused by one of our
+colleagues whom I invited. He refused promptly, "he really couldn't do
+that even for me. He hadn't thought about Racine since he left school,
+and hadn't felt it a blank in his life." Mlle. de B. did it very well;
+she sat on a little platform with a table in front of her, and all the
+swells in red and gilt arm-chairs facing her, and looking at her hard.
+She was a little nervous at first, but soon got over that, and her
+language was good and well chosen, she knew her subject perfectly, and
+spoke in a pretty clear voice. This was the invitation:--
+
+    MADAME WADDINGTON
+
+    SERA CHEZ ELLE
+
+    le Samedi, 9 Mai, 2 à 4 heures,
+
+    _Mlle. de Bury lira une étude de critique littéraire sur Racine, son
+    milieu, et sa tragédie de Bérénice._
+
+Do you think it would have tempted you? I am afraid Schuyler wouldn't
+have come.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    May, 1885.
+
+We are having most beautiful weather, Dear, and our morning rides are
+delightful. If only the Park was a little bigger. We always get a good
+gallop on the other side by the Marble Arch, but it is small, and one
+goes round and round. When I ride with W. we generally make three or
+four turns as fast as we can go, he hates to dawdle. When I ride with
+the military attaché, or some other friends, we do the Row, and amble up
+and down, talking to the people walking as well as the riders. The
+children always delight in scampering along on their ponies, and they
+certainly begin young. A friend of ours, who has a nice sturdy boy of
+about six, was wondering whether he should begin with his child on a
+narrow pony, thinking he was still rather young, so he consulted Lady
+P., a beautiful rider, and an authority on all matters connected with
+riding. "You mustn't begin too early with boys," she said; "one must be
+careful; I never put any boy of mine on a horse until he was two years
+old."
+
+    May 13th.
+
+To-day we have had a very long Drawing-room held by the Queen, which of
+course attracts everyone. She rarely stays more than an hour, just long
+enough to receive the Corps Diplomatique and the people who have the
+entrée. The Queen looked very well, merely shook hands with me, but
+talked some little time to W., said she had enjoyed her stay at
+Aix-les-Bains so much, and that everything had been done to make her
+comfortable. I watched her while she was talking and I never saw a smile
+make such a difference in a face. Hers is quite beautiful and lights up
+her whole face. It was tiring to-day--unending. Lord R. told me there
+were 400 presentations, and at the end said about 1,200 people had
+passed. They say the Queen is sometimes made sick by the quantity of
+people curtseying before her--the constant movement of the people
+bending down and rising has the same effect upon her as the waters of
+the sea. I can understand it.
+
+The long Drawing-room to-day was a god-send to Lady A.,--one of Lord
+C.'s daughters. She is a "débutante," had a very pretty new dress, and
+was much excited over her presentation, had started very early with her
+mother so as to see the Queen (who stays only a short hour). The early
+start and the long waiting in the row of carriages and also the
+ante-room, exhausted her absolutely. She was sick and faint; they did
+all they could, brought her brandy, put her near an open window--nothing
+did any good. She had to retire from the room, go downstairs, have her
+dress cut open (there was a knot in the lace and they couldn't unlace
+her bodice), and remained extended on a sofa in the hall--train, veil,
+feathers, all in a heap. After a rest of two hours, and a cup of tea
+(procured with great difficulty, as there is no buffet on these
+occasions) she felt better, and her mother hearing from a friend
+upstairs, who was "de service," that the Drawing-room was still going
+on, was most anxious that the girl should pass, so they arranged her
+veil, hair, and feathers as well as they could, tied the bodice of her
+dress, and filled in the intervals with some bits of tulle cut from her
+veil. She passed, and I don't believe anyone noticed anything wrong with
+her dress, and she was so thankful not to have to go through that long
+waiting again. It is a most fatiguing day for those who haven't the
+entrée, as they must sit so long in their carriages in the file.
+
+    #Hatfield#, May 30th.
+
+We came down yesterday to this most beautiful old place. A large
+Elizabethan castle, standing rather high, with courts and terraces in
+every direction. We found Lady Salisbury at her tea-table on the terrace
+with a lovely view of park and woods on all sides. Various members of
+the family and house-party sauntered up, some of the young ladies in
+their habits, having been riding; and some guests having walked up from
+the station, which is quite near at the end of the Park. After an hour's
+talk Lady Salisbury took me to my room (miles away through the long hall
+and up a great staircase), and told me dinner was "easy 8." The room is
+large, all panelled in oak which has become almost black with age, an
+enormous bed (they have always had their sheets made especially for
+these beds for more than 200 years, in Germany I think, as no ordinary
+sheets could cover more than half). The beds are very long and almost
+square. They would easily hold Brigham Young and all his wives. Do you
+remember the picture in Mark Twain? Mine was so high I had to take a
+footstool to clamber into it. W.'s room, next, about the same. We went
+downstairs at 8.10 and certainly didn't dine until after 8-1/2. We were
+about 30 in the great dining-room, a splendid hall with portraits of
+Queen Elizabeth (one in fancy dress, most curious with bright red hair),
+Henry VIII, Mary Queen of Scots, etc. We played cards in the evening and
+broke up rather early. This morning Lady Salisbury showed me the
+house--most interesting, full of treasures and memories, a great library
+with all sorts of letters from the time of Elizabeth, and in the
+drawing-room a vitrine filled with relics of the "Virgin Queen." It was
+curious to see her gloves, shoes, hat. I think Lady Salisbury was
+somewhat surprised at my interest in these last things, but I told her
+she must make allowances for the American, who was not accustomed to old
+family traditions and souvenirs of that kind. When I think of our
+Revolution, then it seems ages ago to me. We enjoyed our visit
+extremely, they are all so nice and simple.
+
+We got back to London this morning and of course dined out somewhere. I
+was amused by one of the ladies saying to me after dinner, "Did you
+really enjoy your visit to Hatfield? Aren't they all _dreadfully_
+clever?" I don't think I should have applied the same adverb, but clever
+they certainly are. Lord Salisbury has such a fine, thoughtful face.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    June, 1885.
+
+We went to Ascot this morning, a beautiful day, and the lawn like a
+flower garden with all the women in their light dresses dotted about. We
+lunched with the Prince and Princess of Wales. The Maharajah of Johore
+was there, and had brought down his own cook, attired in yellow satin
+with a large flat hat on his head. He made a sort of curry for his
+master, which everybody tasted--except me--I don't like culinary
+experiments, and I think the yellow satin garments didn't inspire me
+with confidence. I told Juteau when he came up for orders just now how
+far below the mark he was as to costume.
+
+    June 29th.
+
+I went this afternoon with Francis to Lord Aberdeen's, where they had a
+hay-making party. They have a pretty little cottage, or rather a small
+farm about an hour's drive from London. There were plenty of people, and
+all sorts of amusements for the children; Punch and Judy, lawn-tennis,
+and two tea-tables on the lawn. After tea they all rushed down a steep
+hill to a field where there were quantities of little heaps of hay, and
+harmless wooden pitchforks. They had a fine time rolling and tumbling
+about in the hay and making hay-stacks. Then a cow appeared on the
+scene, dressed with flowers and ribbons, and the maids made syllabub on
+the spot, which the children enjoyed immensely.
+
+[Illustration: Lady Salisbury]
+
+    June 30th, 1885.
+
+We dined at Lady Molesworth's with the Duc d'Aumale, who is always
+charming, and makes everything easy, as there are always bothering
+little questions of official etiquette with non-reigning Princes. He is
+a fine type of the soldier-prince. It seems hard that a man of his
+intelligence and education shouldn't play a great part in his own
+country.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    July, 1885.
+
+We had the Court concert this evening. The Duc d'Aumale was there,
+looking so well and so royal. He is always charming to us, and we were
+very proud of our French Prince. H. came with us and enjoyed herself
+extremely. The entrance of the Court amused her very much, the two tall
+Chamberlains with their wands walking backwards. She says she never saw
+anything so pretty as the curtsey the Princess of Wales made to the
+assembled company as soon as she got into the room. What always appeals
+in some sort of way to our _irreverent_ American minds is the singing of
+the "God Save the Queen," all the company, including Prince and
+Princess, rising and standing.
+
+
+    _To J. K._
+
+    #Chevening, Sevenoaks#,
+    Sunday, July 27, 1885.
+
+I will begin my letter here to-day, Dear Jan, from the Stanhopes' place,
+where we came last evening to spend Sunday. It was awfully hot
+yesterday. I almost died on the way from London down, fortunately it was
+only an hour. We are a party of 14--Lord and Lady John Manners, Lord
+Derby and his step-daughter, Lady Margaret Cecil, Mr. and Mrs. Edward
+Stanhope, Mr. and Mrs. Jeune, Lord Boston, a nice young fellow, and a
+Mr. Praed, a riding man, who has travelled everywhere. We had tea on the
+terrace overlooking a lovely garden and lake, and dined at 8. After
+dinner we sat on the terrace, and it was charming, a beautiful full
+moon, and not a breath of air. Friday we had the closing festivity of
+the season at Marlborough House. A beautiful ball it was, about 600
+people, all the crème de la société and beautiful dresses and jewels. I
+wore my pink and green Moscow dress (my Russian garments have done me
+good service this year), and it was much admired. All the Battenberg
+family were there in great force, and I renewed acquaintance with the
+Prince of Bulgaria, whom I used to know. They had covered in a great
+part of the garden, and the room was beautifully arranged with the
+Prince's Indian carpets and arms. The supper room, also built out in the
+garden, was so pretty--a collection of small round tables for 8 or 10
+persons, with flowers and handsome silver. Prince Albert Victor took me
+in, and I had a young Battenberg next. Neither Phelps nor Harry White
+was there, on account of Grant's death, which I thought very nice of
+them. I danced once or twice after supper, and we came away at 2. I hear
+they kept it up until 5, having begun at 11. There is a reception at
+Lady Salisbury's on Tuesday, which will be really the end of all things,
+and purely political, as all the swells go off to Goodwood Monday.
+
+    11.30.
+
+We have just come upstairs after a very hot day. I didn't go to church,
+as I knew I could not stand the heat, and talked a little and read very
+happily in the big drawing-room till luncheon. Lady Stanhope took me
+over the house, which is not very large, but interesting. There is a
+charming library full of books and manuscripts and letters, some from
+Lord Chesterfield to his son, written in French, and beginning "Mon cher
+ami, comment vont les grâces et les manières." After luncheon, we sat
+out under the lime trees, and after tea I made a little tournée with
+Lord Stanhope and prowled about the park, and went also to the church,
+where there are several interesting monuments. This evening we have been
+sitting again on the terrace, quite delicious. I in my white dress, with
+nothing on my shoulders.
+
+    #London#,
+    Tuesday, 28th.
+
+We got back yesterday at 2 o'clock and the weather has changed to-day.
+It was very hot all day yesterday. I spent the afternoon on my sofa
+until 6.30, when we went for a ride and met the few last people who are
+still here. Last night we discussed our summer plans, and I shall go
+over to France on Saturday with Francis, stay three or four days in
+Paris, and then go down to St. Léger. It is curious how London is
+suddenly empty. There were not 5 carriages in the park yesterday. This
+morning I have been careering about the stable-yard trying a new habit.
+They are so difficult to make in these days, so tight that the least
+change of saddle makes them go every way but the right one. I don't know
+if I wrote after the Harwoods lunched with us. W. was much pleased with
+them and found them a most attractive family. The girls are charming, so
+pretty and simple. I must stop, as Holmes (the English butler) is
+waiting for me to tell him all sorts of final arrangements before we
+start.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    November 9, 1885.
+
+The young King of Spain is dead. The Ambassador, M. de Casa La Iglesia,
+was to have dined with us. He sent a note at 5.30 saying that he must
+give up the pleasure of dining with us for a "bien pénible raison," but
+without saying what it was--so one of the secretaries went off "aux
+informations" and came back with the news that the King was dead. Poor
+young fellow, his reign was short.
+
+    December 5th.
+
+We had a service at the Spanish chapel in Manchester Square for the King
+of Spain. All the Diplomats and official world there. It was very
+long--all the ladies were in black--Comtesse Karolyi (Austrian
+Ambassadress) and Comtesse de Bylandt (wife of the Dutch Minister) in
+crêpe, long veils. They told me I was not at all correct, that a crêpe
+veil was "de rigueur" for crowned heads. I thought I was all right in
+black velvet, a tulle veil, and black gloves (in fact was rather pleased
+with my get-up), but the ladies were very stern.
+
+    #London#,
+    December 15, 1885.
+
+I wish you were here this morning, Dear, as the Embassy is a
+curiosity--might just as well be in Kamtchatka as far as the outside
+world is concerned--for nothing exists beyond the walls of the house.
+When they drew back my curtains this morning I couldn't really think for
+a moment where I was. Adelaïde had a lighted candle in her hand (it was
+8.30 o'clock in the morning) and I thought my window panes had been
+painted a dirty yellow in the night. However it was only a yellow London
+fog; I could literally see nothing when I went to the window. It has
+lightened now a little, but we have had lamps for breakfast, and I am
+writing with my candles! The big shops opposite are all lighted, and one
+sees little glimmers of light through the fog. I can't see across the
+street. The fog gets into everything--was quite thick and perceptible in
+the hall when we went down to breakfast. The coachman has been in and
+said he couldn't take out his horses, not even with a link-boy running
+alongside, so let us hope it will brighten up a little in the course of
+the afternoon.
+
+    December 16th.
+
+The fog did lift about 4; but the day was trying and the traces most
+evident the next day, as everything in the house was filthy--all the
+silver candlesticks and little silver ornaments that are on the tables;
+the white curtains--in fact everything one touched. I should think
+laundresses would make their fortune in London. My maid came to my room
+about 3 o'clock, just as I was going out, with her apron really black
+with smuts. I said, "What in the world have you been doing, cleaning the
+chimneys?" "Non, Madame, je n'ai fait que travailler chez Madame et dans
+la lingerie; j'ai voulu montrer mon tablier à Madame, c'est le troisième
+que je mets depuis ce matin...!"
+
+    December 17, 1885.
+
+Yesterday I made an excursion to the city with Hilda Deichmann and her
+husband to buy things for our Christmas trees. It was most amusing
+ransacking in all the big wholesale houses, and reminded me of my
+childish days and similar expeditions to Maiden Lane. There is so much
+always in England that recalls early days. I think it is not only the
+language, but the education and way of living are the same. We have read
+the same books and sung the same hymns, and understand things in the
+same way. Our shopping was most successful. All the prettiest things
+come from the German shops. The ginger-bread animals were
+wonderful,--some horses and dogs with gilt tails and ears most
+effective. The decorations were really very pretty--the stars and angels
+quite charming. When we had finished our shopping Deichmann took us to
+Pym's, a celebrated oyster cellar, to lunch. A funny little place well
+known to all City people. We had a capital lunch--all oysters.
+
+This afternoon we have been playing, 8 hands, two pianos, which was
+interesting. Two of our colleagues, Princess Ghika, Roumanian Legation,
+and Countess de Bylandt, Dutch, are excellent musicians. They lead, and
+Hilda and I follow as well as we can. I am the least good, but I manage
+to get along, and of course whenever I know the music my ear helps me.
+We have two fine Érard grand pianos in the drawing-room, which is large,
+and fairly light for London. I was much tempted by a beautiful Steinway
+piano, but thought it right at the French Embassy to have Érards, which
+are of course fine instruments. I fancy Steinway is more brilliant, but
+I think we make noise enough, particularly when we are playing
+Wagner--the _Kaiser March_ for instance.
+
+    December 23d.
+
+It was not very cold this morning, so I tried the new horse, and he went
+very well. I have had a thick hunting habit made, and was quite
+comfortable, except the hands, which were cold at starting. I fussed all
+day over the Christmas tree which we are to have on the 26th, and this
+evening we had a small farewell dinner for Nigra, the Italian
+Ambassador, who is going away to Vienna. I am very sorry, as he is a
+good colleague and an easy and charming talker. He sat a long time with
+me the other day talking over his Paris experiences and the brilliant
+days of the Empire--Tuileries, Compiègne, etc. It was most interesting
+and new to me, as I only know Paris since the war (1870) and have never
+seen either Emperor or Empress. I suppose I never shall see her, as she
+never comes to London, and lives a very secluded life at Farnborough
+with a small household, and some Paris friends who come sometimes, not
+very often, to see her. What a tragic "fin de vie" hers is, having had
+everything and lost everything. We had also the Russian and Spanish
+Ambassadors--Staal charming, clever, easy, simple--"simpatico," the only
+word I know in any language which expresses exactly that combination of
+qualities. Casa La Iglesia, the Spaniard, is a tall, handsome,
+attractive-looking man. He made havoc in the various posts he has
+occupied, and when we want to tease him we ask him about his departure
+from Berlin, and all the "femmes affolées" who were at the station to
+see the last of him. Henrietta and Anne have arrived for Christmas,
+laden of course with presents and souvenirs for everybody, and Francis
+is quite happy with his aunts.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Albert Gate, London#,
+    December 24, 1885.
+
+The sisters and I have been shopping all day getting the last things for
+the tree, which is to be on the 26th. The streets are most animated,
+full of people, all carrying parcels, and all with smiling faces. The
+big toy-shops and confectioners crowded. "Buzzard," the great shop in
+Oxford Street, most amusing; hundreds of Christmas cakes of all sizes.
+There are plum cakes frosted with sugar icing, the date generally in red
+letters and a sprig of ivy or evergreen stuck in at the top. We had
+ordered a large one, and they were much pleased to do it for the French
+Embassy, and wanted to make the letters in "tri-color," red, white, and
+blue. We wound up at the Army and Navy Stores, and really had some
+difficulty in getting in. They had quantities of Christmas trees already
+decorated, which were being sold as fast as they were brought in.
+
+There were splendid turkeys, enormous; and curiously enough they told us
+many of them came from France, from a well-known turkey farm in the
+Loiret. I must ask the Ségurs, who live in that part of the country, if
+they know the place. There were quantities of plum-puddings of all sizes
+and prices, and it must be a very poor household that doesn't have its
+plum-pudding to-morrow. We were glad to get back to tea and hot buttered
+toast--a thoroughly English institution. I would like some of my French
+servants to learn how to make it, but I don't suppose they will. In fact
+I don't know exactly who makes it here--I am quite sure neither Juteau
+nor his "garçon de cuisine" would condescend to do anything so simple. I
+suppose it isn't the "odd man" who seems to do all the things that no
+one else will, but I sha'n't inquire as long as it appears.
+
+We had a quiet evening--talked a little politics while W. was smoking.
+Henrietta always sees a great many people of all kinds, and tells him
+various little things that don't come to him in his official despatches.
+The house is comfortable enough, though there is no calorifère, and it
+is a corner house. There are enormous coal fires everywhere, except in
+my bedroom and dressing-room, where I always burn wood--and such
+wood--little square pieces like children's blocks.
+
+    Christmas Day.
+
+It was dark and foggy this morning, we could hardly see the trees
+opposite, and the lamps are lighted in the house and the streets.
+Francis was enchanted with his presents. I think the billiard-table from
+Paris and the big boat ("aussi grand que Monsieur Toutain"--one of our
+Secretaries) were what pleased him most. There is a sort of sailing
+match every Sunday morning on the Serpentine. Some really beautiful
+boats (models) full-rigged, and it is a pretty sight to see them all
+start a miniature yacht race across the river. Francis always goes with
+Clarisse, and Yves, his own little Breton footman, carries his boat,
+which is much bigger than he is, also Boniface, a wise little
+fox-terrier who knows all about it, and gallops around the top of the
+lake to meet his master's boat on the other side. They have also one of
+the Park keepers and a gigantic policeman, who is always on duty at
+Albert Gate, to look after them. Not a useless precaution, as the boat
+often gets entangled in the reeds, and _has_ been known to go to the
+bottom of the lake, and Boniface always gets lost and is brought back by
+a policeman or a soldier, or a friend--Hilda Deichmann brought him back
+one day.
+
+We had a cheerful Christmas dinner--all our personnel--M. Blanchard de
+Forges, Consul General, and Villiers, the correspondent of the "Débats"
+in London. We did a little music after dinner. I tried for some
+Christmas carols "We Three Kings of Orient Are" (do you remember that at
+Oyster Bay? how long ago it seems), but the English-speaking element was
+not strong enough. We danced a little, winding up with a sort of Scotch
+reel--Henrietta, Waru (our Military Attaché), and Petiteville being the
+chief performers.
+
+    December 26th.
+
+We are all rather exhausted after the Christmas tree; however, the
+children were quite pleased, and the tree really very pretty. A gigantic
+pine, reaching to the top of the ceiling in the ballroom, a star on the
+top and very well lighted. We had 34 children of all ages and
+nationalities, from Nadine Karolyi, aged 18, daughter of Count Karolyi,
+Austrian Ambassador and Doyen of the Corps Diplomatique, to Florence
+Williams' baby girl of 16 months. The little ones were sweet, speechless
+at first, with round eyes fixed on the tree, and then little fat arms
+stretched out for something. The children's tea-table looked pretty,
+arranged with coloured candles and holly, and an enormous Christmas cake
+in the middle with a wreath of holly around it. Nadine Karolyi cut the
+first slice of cake, as daughter of the Doyen she sat on Francis's right
+hand, and Thekla Staal, daughter of the Russian Ambassador, on his left.
+W. was much amused at the correct placing of the young ladies. We start
+to-morrow for Knowsley and Luton Hoo, and the packing is quite an
+affair. I take 10 dresses, besides jackets, hats, etc. I must have short
+costumes to follow the battues for fine and bad weather--a swell day
+dress, as we are to lunch at Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place near
+Knowsley; and two ball dresses, as there is to be a county ball for all
+the neighbourhood at Luton, New Year's night, and a small dance with a
+cotillon (which is unusual in England) the next night. Adelaïde is
+rather fatigued, as besides my trunk she has to finish off her
+toilettes, and she has just come in to ask me if she shall take the
+regulation black silk, or a blue silk, which is more dressy; as they
+tell her the _ladies_ in the housekeeper's room are very dressy at
+Luton. I said the blue silk by all means--she must be up to the mark.
+The fog has kept up pretty well all day. I hope it will clear to-morrow,
+we are going straight into the coal country. Knowsley is near Liverpool,
+and I fancy it is always dark there.
+
+I was telling Nigra the other day about our first Roman Christmas and
+what an impression it made upon us. Such a splendid winter, always a
+bright blue sky, and roses straggling over all the old grey walls. The
+Pifferari singing to the Madonnas at all the street corners, the
+midnight Mass and mysterious Pastorale in St. Peter's at early dawn with
+the tapers trembling on the high altar so far away; and the grand
+Christmas ceremony at St. Peter's, with all the magnificent pomp of the
+Catholic Church in Rome. We talked on for some time about "Roma com'
+era," which of course he doesn't regret, and I told him of our last
+night in Rome, when we all went "en bande" to drink at the Fountain of
+Trevi (which is supposed to act as a charm and to bring people back to
+Rome). I remember quite well how tearful I was when we left. I didn't
+think then that life was worth living out of the shadow of St. Peter's,
+and think so a little still even now, though my lines have lain in very
+different places.
+
+We leave Francis in the sisters' charge, with the joys of a pantomime
+before him.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Knowsley#,
+    December 29, 1885.
+
+We arrived here late yesterday afternoon. It is a long, uninteresting
+journey (almost to Liverpool), was cold and foggy all the way down, and
+we found snow when we arrived in the Park--also a perfect gale of wind,
+the enormous bare, black winter trees swaying like poplars. The large
+house, with all the façade brightly lighted, gave us at once a cheerful
+welcome. Lady Derby was waiting for us in the long, low drawing-room
+with tea, and we went up almost immediately to dress for dinner. We had
+sent the servants by an earlier train, which was convenient, as they had
+time to unpack and have everything ready for us. We have a charming
+apartment--a very good-sized salon, with bedrooms large and comfortable
+on each side. The salon furnished in a bright chintz, and good pictures,
+mostly family portraits, on the walls. There were blazing fires
+everywhere--these enormous rocks of Liverpool coal one sees here. I
+instantly proceeded to demolish mine in my bedroom. Adelaïde had already
+tried to make the housemaid understand that her lady didn't like warm
+rooms, but the other one pointed to the snow under the windows, and
+heaped on her pieces of coal.
+
+Dinner was at 8 _punctually_ (which was a contrast to Hatfield, where we
+had been staying the other day. There dinner was easily half past eight,
+and after we had been at table some little time various friends and
+members of the family appeared, and slid quietly into their places at
+the end of the very long table). There is a large family party here and
+some other guests, including the two historians, Froude and Lecky, both
+most interesting.
+
+[Illustration: Knowsley Hall
+
+The Earl of Derby's place at Prescot Lancashire]
+
+We dined in a fine hall with family portraits of all the Derbys, from
+the first one at Bosworth down to the present Earl, who is the 16th Earl
+of Derby. There was beautiful plate on the table--fine racing cups--as
+the Stanleys were always quite as much racing men as statesmen. These
+are such curious things in England, the love of sport is so strong.
+Fancy any of our statesmen, Thiers, Guizot, Dufaure, etc., with racing
+stables. Lord Derby is very easy and rather inclined to chaff Americans
+a little, but I didn't mind. The evening was short after we adjourned to
+the drawing-room. Lady Derby is rather delicate, and is suffering just
+now from a bad eye. I sat some time in my comfortable room upstairs, but
+was glad to get to bed early after the cold journey. W. went off to the
+fumoir, and had a most interesting talk over Ireland and Irish questions
+with Mr. Lecky. This morning was awful; snow, sleet, and a cold
+rain--however, the sportsmen were not to be deterred by any such mild
+obstacle, and started at 9.30 in a big break with four horses. I watched
+the departure from my window, and was very glad I was not going to make
+any such expedition. I had my breakfast upstairs, and had an amusing
+explanation with the housemaid who appeared at 9.30 with an enormous
+tray and breakfast enough for a family--tea, beefsteaks, cold
+partridges, eggs, rolls, toast, potatoes, buns and fruit--you never saw
+such a meal. She couldn't believe that I only wanted tea and toast and
+an egg (which was an extra, but as I knew we should only lunch at two,
+and I am accustomed to have my déjeuner à la fourchette at 12, I was
+sure I should be hungry if I didn't take something), and asked me most
+respectfully if I was not well, and would like something else--"a little
+soup perhaps."
+
+I went downstairs about 12 and found the ladies in the drawing-room all
+complaining of the cold. Lady Derby took me over the house--it has not
+the beautiful proportions of Hatfield--is long, low, and rambling, but
+most comfortable. The library is a fine room with deep window recesses,
+and most comfortable with a bright fire burning. The librarian was there
+and showed us some of his treasures, among them an old copy of the
+"Roman de la Rose," and various old manuscripts. We went on to the
+dining-room, and Lady Derby explained the family portraits to me. The
+long, unbroken line of Earls of Derby is most interesting, and the
+change in the portraits for the two or three generations where the
+French blood shows itself, most curious. The wife of the Earl of Derby
+who died on the scaffold, giving his life for his King, was the famous
+Charlotte de la Trémouille, who defended her castle--Lathom House--so
+gallantly against Fairfax and his Roundheads. Do you remember one of our
+school-room books in America, "Heroines of History," where there was a
+description of the siege of Lathom House, and a picture of the Countess
+of Derby standing on the ramparts in a riding habit and hat and feathers
+and apparently loading a cannon herself and showing a gunner how to
+point it?
+
+The portraits are most interesting; first the regular Saxon type, then
+the French streak, pale oval faces, and dark eyes and hair (not unlike
+the Stuarts, who have always a foreign look); then the true British,
+more and more accentuated down to the present Earl. They have also in
+one of the halls the block on which the Lord Derby knelt who was
+beheaded in 1631.
+
+The sportsmen arrived about tea-time, apparently neither cold nor tired,
+and having had a fine shoot.
+
+    New Year's Day, 1886.
+
+We are leaving this afternoon for Luton, Mme. de Falbe's place, where
+there is a ball and cotillon to-night. We were to go and join the
+shooters yesterday, but it was rainy and cold, and the ladies didn't
+care to go out. The talk at luncheon was pleasant; Froude is brilliant
+and easy. His American experiences and stories were amusing, but I told
+him he mustn't take the very eccentric ladies and gentlemen whom he had
+encountered as specimens of Americans. I didn't know any such people,
+that really most of us were quite quiet and ordinary, and like everybody
+else. Lord Derby rather urged him on, and was amused at our perfectly
+amicable discussion. We drove over to Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place,
+after lunch. The park is fine and they have capital shooting. Our
+evening was quiet, and we broke up early, as they always have a midnight
+service in the chapel on New Year's eve for the family and servants and
+any of the guests who like to attend. We left the drawing-room at 10.30,
+so that the servants might put out the lights, finish their work, etc.,
+and also to have time to get out of our low dresses and jewels. A little
+before 12 Lady Margaret Cecil (Lady Derby's daughter by her first
+husband, Lord Salisbury) came for us and we went to the chapel. I had
+put on a dark cloth dress and jacket, nothing on my head. The chapel was
+full, all the servants (including my French maid) and household. Lady
+Margaret, looking like a saint in her plain black dress, and beautiful
+earnest expression, sat at the little organ, and everybody, gardeners,
+keepers, coachmen, cooks, housemaids, joined in the singing. It was very
+solemn and impressive. At the end of the service we all went out first,
+and then Lady Margaret and her brother Lord Lionel stood at the head of
+the stairs and shook hands with all the guests, and all the servants,
+wishing all a "Happy New Year." It was a nice beginning of the New Year.
+Lord Derby hopes our next one will be also in England and at Knowsley,
+but everything is so uncertain, and of such short duration in our
+country (especially Cabinets) that we can hardly look forward a year.
+
+    #Luton#,
+    January 3, 1886.
+
+Our journey yesterday from Knowsley was not very long, and some of the
+country all about Matlock, in Derbyshire, quite wild and lovely. Our
+host here is M. de Falbe, Danish Minister, who married Mrs. Leigh, owner
+of this charming place. We found the house party, mostly young,
+assembled in the morning-room with tea, the ladies all, as usual, in
+very dressy tea-gowns. I can't quite get used to that fashion, though I
+see it is very practical in the country at this season. Everyone goes
+out (in all weathers generally) from luncheon till tea-time, and of
+course one must get out of short skirts and muddy boots before coming
+down to the drawing-room. We went up early to dress, as Mme. de Falbe
+wanted to dine precisely at 8, on account of the ball afterwards. The
+house is large, with endless corners and corridors, fine drawing-rooms,
+library, and a large chapel with a fine organ. The dinner was handsome
+and very well arranged, five round tables, and quantities of silver,
+flowers, servants, etc. About 10.30 the company began to arrive, many
+county neighbours, Salisburys, Lyttons, Caledons, etc., bringing their
+house parties with them. We had a very pretty cotillon. At the end the
+children's pony came in carrying two big baskets filled with presents.
+The poor little thing was very gentle, but was evidently afraid of
+slipping on the parquet floor.
+
+[Illustration: The Late Earl of Derby
+
+From a photograph by Franz Baum, London]
+
+    Sunday, 3d.
+
+To-day has been charming; first the service in the house chapel, very
+good organ music--Mme. de Falbe is musical and arranges everything.
+After breakfast they organized a paper hunt for the "jeunesse" in the
+park, and the older people walked about. The rendezvous was the dairy--a
+model one, quite delightful with tiles, and creepers running along the
+walls and peeping everywhere in at the windows. One by one the young
+people assembled, flushed and exhausted with running, and all clamouring
+for tea. Comte Jacques de Pourtalès (one of our Secretaries), a young
+officer of the Blues, and Forbes, Mme. de Falbe's son-in-law, were the
+hares and got in some time before the hounds. After tea Falbe took me
+over to the stables, where there were plenty of horses, and also to the
+"vacherie," which was perfect. They have 40 small Alderney cows, all the
+same breed and colour, pretty little beasts, and so wonderfully clean,
+kept like pet dogs.
+
+The dinner and evening was most lively, choruses, banjos (which is a
+favourite instrument in English houses), and every kind of game,
+including musical chairs--M. de Falbe at the piano. I think everyone
+played except the Falbes and ourselves. W. and Falbe retired afterwards
+to the smoking-room, and were deep in foreign politics. Falbe is a
+perfect type of the diplomatist, tall, good-looking, and a charming,
+courteous manner. We ladies went off about 11, and an hour later we
+heard the most unearthly noises in the house. All the men parading the
+corridors with banjos, bells, gongs, etc., and singing (if singing it
+can be called) at the top of their voices. They stopped at every door to
+serenade. The party breaks up to-morrow, and we all go back to London.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #London#,
+    Sunday, January 17, 1886.
+
+We had a musical dinner last night for Miss Griswold and Albanesi, and
+they sang and played all the evening. Albanesi has a charming, delicate
+touch, and plays with all the Italian brio. He told me--what surprised
+me--that he was always frightfully nervous when playing in public, and
+much preoccupied with the "composition de la salle"--if he saw one or
+two unsympathetic faces he had at once a disagreeable sensation!
+Gertrude Griswold has always the same lovely voice with a beautiful
+clear ring in it, and sings most artistically.
+
+This morning we have been to church at St. Paul's. It is a fine service,
+a splendid organ, and very good well-trained choir--but not at all
+solemn. I felt as if I was in one of the great Catholic cathedrals in
+Italy. People were coming and going all the time, and walking about the
+church. It is so enormous that it is quite a walk from the big doors to
+the small (comparatively) enclosed space where the congregation
+assembles.
+
+I have been at home all the afternoon receiving--men only, which is a
+regular London custom. Adams came in at tea-time. He and W. always like
+to have a good talk over old times. They were at school and college
+together, and Adams, when he was Chargé d'Affaires at the British
+Embassy, used to have all sorts of questions to treat with W., who was
+then Ministre des Affaires Étrangeres in Paris. They always began their
+conversations in French, and then fell into English, which of course
+they had always spoken together.
+
+To-night we have a small dinner for Rustem Pacha, and I have asked one
+or two people in the evening. I should like to be at home always on
+Sunday night, as we did in the Champs Élysées, but they tell me no
+English will come. Many of them don't go out on Sunday night, and don't
+take their horses out, and give servants a rest. I asked Lady A., who is
+very mondaine, if she would come to dinner to meet a few colleagues, and
+she said--"Dear Mme. Waddington, let me come another night; I never take
+out my carriage and servants on Sunday."
+
+Jean Gordon Gumming is very much exercised over what she calls my French
+ways, and constantly tells me people don't do such and such things in
+England; but I always tell her the French Embassy is _not_ England;
+however, she is rather worried over me, and finds me un-English (which
+is not surprising) and unconventional, which is also not surprising,
+considering my nationality.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    January 21, 1886.
+
+We have had a great function to-day, the Queen opened Parliament. We all
+went in gala, Countess D'A. and P. with us, the men in uniform, I in red
+satin, low, with diamonds and feathers. The road was lined with
+policemen and mounted soldiers in lieu of infantry, as there would have
+been with us. As we passed through the Horse-Guards the trumpeters
+saluted. We went at once into the great hall of the Lords', which was a
+fine sight. All the peers were there in their scarlet robes trimmed with
+white fur, and the women in low dresses, diamonds, and feathers
+(feathers play a great part in all English toilettes). The Judges also
+were in full dress, with wigs and gowns. About 1.30 the Princes began to
+arrive, Prince of Wales, Dukes of Edinburgh, Connaught, and Cambridge
+all also in scarlet robes with bands of ermine and gold, and the collar
+of the Garter. We sat close to the Throne (Countess Karolyi didn't come,
+so I was Doyenne), then Madame de Staal and the Duchesses Bedford,
+Hamilton, Sutherland, and others. The Prince of Wales stood next to me
+some time, presenting the Duke of Connaught, whom I had not seen, and
+talked pleasantly enough, explaining various things to me; also said he
+was rather shy at taking his seat on the raised platform until the last
+moment. He had an arm-chair on the right of the Throne. I asked him for
+whom the other arm-chair was and he said it was his father's, had never
+been used since his death, and showed me the Saxon arms on it. The three
+brothers, Wales, Edinburgh, and Connaught, remained standing together.
+The other Princes, Christian, Duke of Teck, and Henry of Battenberg,
+were opposite to us; Battenberg, who has a slight, stylish figure,
+looking handsome in British Volunteer Uniform (dark green) with the
+collar of the Garter. Teck looks badly, older and thinner. He must have
+been a very handsome man (which, by the way, he tells one frequently).
+When Prince Alexander of Battenberg was at one of the Court balls
+everyone was talking about him and saying what a magnificent man he was.
+Teck, who was dancing a quadrille with me, was much put out, and said to
+me, "Do you really find Battenberg so very handsome? It is a pity you
+didn't know me when I was his age; I was much handsomer," and appealed
+to Count D., Austrian Ambassador, an old friend and "compagnon d'armes,"
+to support his statement, which I must say he did most warmly, and one
+can quite see it.
+
+All the Ambassadors and men of the Corps Diplomatique faced us--the
+English women were upstairs. About 2.30 (we had been there since 1.30)
+we heard a trumpet call, and all the company stood up. We women dropped
+our cloaks, and the Prince took his place standing on the dais.
+Presently appeared the Garter King-at-Arms and various officers of the
+household. The Duke of Portland stood on the right of the Throne holding
+a Royal crown on a cushion. Lord Salisbury (Premier) carried a large
+sword with a double handle, and then came the Queen followed by Princess
+Beatrice and Princes Eddie and George of Wales. The Queen was dressed in
+black satin with a long train, lined and trimmed with ermine, quantities
+of diamonds on her neck and corsage, the blue ribbon of the Garter, and
+a regular closed crown of diamonds, and white veil. As she came in the
+Prince of Wales advanced, touched the ground with one knee, kissed her
+hand, and led her to the Throne. He did his part most easily and
+gracefully, and didn't look at all shy. The Queen's train was carried by
+Sir Henry Ponsonby and two pages in red and gold. Princess Beatrice and
+the Duchess of Buccleuch (Mistress of the Robes) stood behind the Queen
+on her right, Princes Eddie and George on her left, Lord Salisbury,
+Halsbury, Lathom, and some others were also on the dais. As soon as the
+Queen was settled on her Throne she bowed to us all right and left. We
+made deep curtseys, and then she made a sign that we were to sit down.
+There was a few moments' silence while they went to summon the Commons.
+Then one heard a noise of scrambling and racing in the corridors--and
+they appeared; the Speaker, looking very well in his wig and gown, came
+first, fairly shot into the hall like a bomb by the impatient crowd
+behind him. Then the Lord Chancellor, asking the Queen's permission,
+read her speech in a clear, distinct voice, so that one heard every
+word. It was very short, and as soon as it was over the Queen went away
+with the same ceremony as when she came. When she got to the foot of the
+dais she made a very pretty half curtsey. The Princes left directly
+afterwards--we too. The crowd in the street was tremendous, everyone
+always is anxious to see the Queen, and much excited over the
+cream-coloured Hanoverian horses which she uses when she goes anywhere
+in semi-state. As they only go out very seldom it is rather a
+responsibility for the Master of the Horse to see that they are
+perfectly quiet.
+
+    #Windsor#, March 8, 1886.
+
+We are at Windsor for the second time to dine and sleep, and we are
+"Doyens" now, so have a sweller apartment in one of the towers--the
+walls so thick that they make splendid deep window recesses (and a
+piano). We had asked an audience of Princess Beatrice, who received us
+before dinner about 7. I wore my brown velvet in which I had come down,
+and we found her in a small salon with a piano and pretty pictures and
+bibelots about. She was in an ordinary red costume, and was rather cold
+and shy at first, but thawed when Battenberg appeared. He has a
+delightful easy way, that sort of charm that so many Poles have. The
+party was a small one--no other diplomats but Mr. and Mrs. Phelps, both
+charming, and some English. The ceremony was quite the same as before.
+The Queen came about nine and went alone into the dining-room, and had
+her two sons-in-law, Christian and Battenberg, on each side. W. took in
+Princess Beatrice, and Mr. Phelps me, so I was quite happy. The Queen
+spoke little, in German, principally, to her neighbours, the English
+scarcely at all, and almost in whispers. I don't know what would happen
+to me if I dined often at court, I couldn't sit at table for an hour
+without talking to someone. Mr. P. says American women are not made for
+courts and convenances. They lose all their charm if they are not
+natural, and I think he is right. The cercle lasted about an hour. The
+Queen and I talked music. She regrets Münster, who is going to Paris.
+
+    #London#, March 9.
+
+We were asked this morning if we would like to drive to the Mausoleum
+before we went back to town, which we accepted of course. W. and I went
+in an open carriage, a pair of horses and postillion, and Lord Thurlow,
+Lord in Waiting, with us. In the next came Mr. and Mrs. Phelps with Mrs.
+F., Lady in Waiting. We drove down the "long walk" to the Mausoleum,
+which is not very far from the Castle. It is a handsome building with a
+fine marble floor like some of the old Italian chapels. The tomb of the
+Prince Consort is very fine, with a recumbent marble statue and a place
+beside it for the Queen when her turn comes. There is a pretty monument
+"In Memoriam" to Princess Alice (of Hesse) with her child in her arms,
+and a tablet to the memory of John Brown as "a grateful tribute from
+Queen Victoria to the faithful servant and friend of 34 years." We then
+drove to Frogmore and saw the farm, basse-cour, dairy, etc., and took
+the 12.30 train back to London. This evening we have had a handsome
+dinner and reception at the Russian Embassy; the whole house open, band
+playing, and all London there. The Duchess of Edinburgh dined. Corti
+made his first appearance in the "grand monde" as Ambassador. He is much
+pleased to be in London. I don't know if he and W. will be very cordial
+colleagues, as Corti decidedly resented W.'s attitude in the Berlin
+Congress.
+
+
+    _To J. K._
+
+    #Clieveden, Maidenhead#,
+    Sunday, March 29, 1886.
+
+I will begin my letter this evening, Dear Jan, in this most lovely place
+of the Duke of Westminster's which Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassador,
+always hires, until after Easter, as his wife hates to spend the winter
+in town. We came down yesterday afternoon with one of their secretaries,
+a nice young fellow. We found the Karolyis alone in a charming library
+filled with books in all languages, and with the most enchanting view of
+the Thames--quite like the view from Richmond Terrace, if you remember
+it. They gave us tea--and about 7 we went up to our rooms. Mine is the
+one the Duchess always has, and W. has the dressing-room next, a large
+room, all hung with rose-coloured silk, faded into yellow now, an
+enormous bed with yellow silk curtains and counterpane, a bath-room with
+marble bath opening out of a little passage, quite complete, and always
+the same divine view. The rooms are filled with pictures, souvenirs of
+all the Sutherlands (whose place it was originally), Westminsters, and
+all the English Royal family of all ages. At 8 a gong sounded and we
+went down to the library (where they live entirely), and found them
+there with the addition of Count Victor Karolyi, a cousin. The dinner
+was good, 4 servants, their chasseurs, in Hungarian uniform, 2 in black
+and one in plain livery. After dinner the 2 Karolyi men sat down to
+cards, W. and the young man talked, also Mme. K. and I--and all the men
+smoked. It was easy enough, as everyone talked a great deal. We broke up
+at 11. This morning we had breakfast at 10, and afterwards Mme. K.
+showed me the house, which is very handsome, one large, beautiful
+drawing-room opening on the terrace and river view. They live only in
+the library, as the rest is so enormous to light and heat. At 12 M. and
+Mme. de Staal, the Russian Ambassador and his wife, arrived, and we went
+for a stroll in the grounds. Went out again after lunch for a long walk
+down by the river in short skirts and thick boots, as it was very
+damp--almost always is on the banks, generally low, of the Thames. It
+looked very pretty and gay, quite a number of boats and some people we
+all knew, staying in one of the houses near, got out of their boats and
+walked along with us. We came in for tea at 5.30, and after that
+adjourned to our respective rooms till dinner. The evening was pleasant,
+as we were more numerous and Staal talks a great deal. Now I am going to
+bed, as it is 11 o'clock, and we breakfast at a quarter to ten
+to-morrow, and get back to London at 11.30.
+
+[Illustration: The Countess Fanny Karolyi 1888 the Austrian Ambassadress
+
+From a photograph by Walery London]
+
+    #London#, Monday, 30th.
+
+We got back this morning at 1 for lunch, and have been in a wild state
+ever since with the bad news from Tonkin and the defeat of our troops.
+The Ministry is out, and Heaven knows what will happen. W. is as blue as
+indigo over the news, as he had been very cocky over Tonkin, as compared
+with the English blunders in the Soudan. Already there are despatches in
+the clubs here, saying W. has been asked to take the Foreign Office. Of
+course he hasn't been asked, and I hope he won't be, for I should hate
+to begin that official life in Paris again, and I am very happy here
+now--however, one never knows in political life. Do you know anything
+about Phelps? W. is very anxious to have your opinion. He says you ought
+to know about a Vermont man. He will have a difficult "succession." Mr.
+Lowell is much liked and admired.
+
+    #London#,
+    April 10, 1886.
+
+We have had a pleasant morning luncheon at Roll's Court with Lord Esher,
+who showed us a quantity of most interesting old manuscripts. A letter
+from "Bloody Mary" to Cardinal Pole announcing her "grossesse" (the
+arrival of a Prince), also the confession and signature of Guy Fawkes
+after torture, such a wavering, faint signature, "Guido." It is
+extraordinary how all the papers and handwriting have lasted. All these
+old-world things are so interesting to me, I seem to realize history so
+much more. I hope to get over to Paris for a little this month. We had a
+nice party (music) at Louisa Lady Ashburton's this evening, and an
+interesting collection of people, fashionable, literary, and _Salvation
+Army_. The house is crowded with statues, pictures, and artistic
+treasures of all kinds.
+
+
+    _To J. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France à Londres#,
+    Sunday, May 29, 1887.
+
+We seem to have a gleam of sunshine this afternoon, Dear Jan, after
+weeks of bleak east winds and grey skies, and we are going to take
+advantage of it to drive out to White Lodge, Richmond Park, and see the
+Tecks. We are revelling in Whitsuntide recess, and no dinners or
+banquets until Friday, the second Court Concert. Last night I went to
+the Opéra with the Staals. It was "Faust," very well given, with Albani,
+Scalchi, and Gayare. The house was fairly brilliant, but not full--the
+Prince and Princess of Wales, Rothschilds, and a certain number of
+people, who came to hear Albani (she is such a favourite here). I should
+think it would be a losing operation. Tell Janet Mlle. de Staal looks so
+nice, is so much more animated, really very pretty, so high bred and
+always well dressed. Lady Salisbury's reception at the F. O. on Tuesday
+for the Queen's Birthday was very brilliant; there were quantities of
+Princes; a Danish Prince, brother of the Princess of Wales; a young
+Russian Grand Duke, a son of the late Prince Frederick Charles, brother
+of the Duchess of Connaught, and any quantity of Maharajahs, covered
+with gold and silver embroidery and diamonds and emeralds as big as
+eggs. They always make a great fuss over the Indian Princes at
+Court--treat them like Royalty, and give them very good places. The
+Corps Diplomatique always protests. The lion of the evening was Herbert
+Bismarck. From the Prince of Wales down everyone, men and women, was
+overwhelming him with attentions. I didn't think the Danish Prince
+looked much pleased. He remarked that "Bismarck had a most disagreeable
+voice." Lizzie P. was wandering about looking very handsome. I didn't
+see Buffalo Bill, which rather surprised me. I suppose he is genuine,
+isn't he? He professed to remember Captain King perfectly when I said I
+had a brother who had been some time on the plains with his regiment.
+Certainly the "Wild West Show" is most original and entertaining. The
+Indians look savage enough to satisfy anyone, and Buffalo Bill and the
+King of the Cowboys are splendid specimens of frontiersmen.
+
+    Monday.
+
+I will finish this morning; it is still dark and rainy. We went out
+yesterday to White Lodge and had a pleasant visit. It was much too cold
+to sit out, so we had tea in the gallery and enjoyed it very much.
+Princess Mary is always so easy. The young Princess May looked very nice
+in a light tweed with a white waistcoat. She asked after Janet, and
+wanted to know if she was to be here this season. I asked Princess Mary
+what she was going to wear at the Jubilee Te Deum at Westminster. She
+said she had no idea, but she had been told long dress, smart bonnet,
+decorations and diamonds. It seems the Queen is going to wear a white
+bonnet covered with diamonds. I have asked no questions and mean to wear
+a short dress--no one will see, as we do not join any cortége. We arrive
+quite simply and go straight to our places. I shall wear white lace with
+mousse velvet, and a mousse bonnet with pink roses. Tell Janet, I am
+convinced I shall never wear my moiré apricot dress from Roulf, that I
+couldn't wear last year at any of the Court fêtes. I am sure the German
+Prince will die. They say he may at any moment, as the excrescence in
+his throat may increase, and then he would suffocate. Wouldn't it be
+strange if that old Emperor outlived the son. Neither sled nor fans have
+yet arrived. I suppose they will appear soon. We have one or two things
+we mean to send out, as soon as we have an opportunity--gloves, etc. I
+should think some of the 75,000 Americans who are coming over would go
+back in the course of the summer. Princess Mary told me yesterday that a
+pretty American girl--an heiress--she couldn't remember the name--did I
+know?--is probably going to marry a Count Btetju, aide-de-camp to the
+Prince of Denmark. It seems he saw her here and fell in love with her at
+once. I must stop now. Have any quantity of notes to write.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #London#,
+    June 14, 1887.
+
+London is getting ready for the Jubilee and the streets are crowded.
+Various Royalties have arrived, and one meets Royal carriages, escorts,
+and strong squads of police at every turn. It is warm and lovely
+to-day--so was yesterday. W., Francis and I drove out to Sheen, where W.
+plays tennis in Lord F.'s private court. I wandered about under the
+trees, and Francis sailed his boat in the pond and was quite happy. It
+is such a rest to get a few hours in the country when one is going out
+all the time as we are here--and above all not to have to talk. We had a
+remarkable entertainment last night, given by the Hawaiian Secretary
+(who is a German-American) for his Queen, of the Sandwich Islands. We
+arrived in due time, I rather protesting.
+
+There was a large reception after dinner and the mistress of the house
+asked us if we wouldn't stand by the Queen and make a sort of cercle,
+and a funny contrast we made--Mrs. P. beautifully dressed in white satin
+and lace, Lady R. with splendid jewels, I wore my pink brocade and old
+Venetian lace. It really was too absurd. I talked a little to the
+Princess, who is intelligent enough. The Queen is a great stickler for
+etiquette, and insisted upon the same honours as any other Royalties, an
+escort of _Life Guards_;--wouldn't accept any less distinguished escort.
+
+    #London#,
+    June 18, 1887.
+
+We have had rather an amusing afternoon. I think I wrote you that we
+wanted to leave Westminster Abbey the minute the ceremony was over, get
+through the line of troops, and back to a friend's house in Piccadilly
+to see the cortége--we being Mrs. Phelps and I. Our respective husbands
+were most discouraging (as men always are), but we dined last night with
+Knowles to meet the Duke of Cambridge, and I told His Royal Highness
+what we wanted to do, and asked him if he could help us. After some
+little discussion he said he would advise us to go directly to Sir
+Charles Warren (Chief of Police) and see what he could arrange for us.
+Again our husbands remonstrated, "Warren was overrun with applications
+of all kinds, worked to death, and it was very unreasonable," but backed
+by the Duke we determined to try.
+
+I told His Royal Highness I should put on my most becoming Paris bonnet
+and beard the lion in his den. He said, "Quite right, my dear, a man is
+always flattered when a woman tries to please him," so accordingly about
+3 Mrs. Phelps and I started for Scotland Yard. George was rather
+surprised when I gave the order. We drove through one or two courts and
+were stopped once by a huge policeman, who let us go on when we said it
+was the French Ambassadress. We were shown at once into Sir Charles's
+room, and I must say he was charming, most kind and courteous. We had
+arranged beforehand that I was to be spokeswoman, and I went at once to
+the point. He was sitting at his table with letters and papers and
+telegrams, the telegraph ticking all the time, despatches and telegrams
+being brought in, and as busy a man as I ever saw. He immediately sent
+for maps of the route, distribution of the troops, etc., and said he
+thought he could manage it. We must have a light carriage (of course we
+must go to the Abbey in state in the gala coach) waiting at the Poets'
+Corner, as near the door as it can get; he will send us a pass to break
+through the lines, and will have three or four policemen waiting for us
+at the corner of Piccadilly and one of the smaller streets to pass us
+through the crowd. We really didn't derange him very much. The whole
+conversation lasted about ten minutes, and he was rather amused at this
+sudden appearance of the two "femmes du monde" in his "milieu" of
+clerks, policemen, telegraph boys, type-writers and a hurrying, bustling
+crowd of employés of all kinds. We returned triumphant to our respective
+houses.
+
+We had a fine reception last night at the Austrian Embassy in honour of
+Prince Rudolph. We arrived late, having dined out. The Prince is very
+good-looking, slight, elegant figure, and charming manners and smile.
+All the world was there--quantities of pretty women, and pretty
+dresses--the Countess Karolyi always the handsomest.
+
+    #London#,
+    June 20, 1887.
+
+London is really a sight to-day, the streets gay with flags, draperies,
+stands, illuminations, and quantities of people gaping all day long. I
+went for a drive with Mary Sheridan, daughter of Mr. Motley, late
+Minister from the United States to the Court of St. James. We didn't
+attempt going down Piccadilly, as we saw what a dense crowd and block
+there was, so we crossed to Constitution Hill. We went all round
+Westminster Abbey; I wanted to see the Poets' Corner where we are to go
+in to-morrow, and the House of Commons stand where she is to be with her
+sister. We were blocked for a quarter of an hour standing close to the
+Embankment. Some of the mottoes are very nice. I like the humble ones
+best, "God bless our Queen." We were a long time getting back to the
+Embassy, Piccadilly almost impassable. It was amusing, as everyone was
+arranging their balconies, and we recognised various friends standing at
+windows, and on balconies directing the arrangement of chairs, plants,
+flags, etc. After dinner W. took his cigar and we walked about a little
+in Piccadilly. Some of the illuminations had already begun and the crowd
+was dense, but no jostling or roughs, everyone good-humoured and wildly
+interested in the decorations. London is transformed for the moment and
+looks like a great continental city, all lights and flags and an "air de
+fête." We didn't stay out very late, as we have a long day before us
+to-morrow. They say the Queen is well, but rather "émue" and a little
+nervous, which must be expected. I shall wear white, the only objection
+to that being that jewels won't show out, as they would on a darker
+colour.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Albert Gate, London#,
+    June 22, 1887.
+
+I am still exhausted, Dear, with the visions of a brilliant, motley,
+moving crowd, when I shut my eyes. Yesterday was beautiful, a glorious
+summer day. I was waked up at 6.30 by the dull rumble of carriages, and
+people already on the move. I thought they must have forgotten to call
+me, but the house was still wrapped in slumber, and though it was only
+6.30 the Park was full of carriages, men in uniform and women in full
+dress. We started at 9.30 in the gala carriage, W. in uniform, and were
+followed by a second carriage, landau, the men equally in gala. We
+remained blocked for a long time in Piccadilly, it didn't seem possible
+to get on; distracted policemen, mounted and on foot, and officers did
+what they could, but there we remained, curiously enough all the
+Ambassadors' carriages together. Finally an order was given to let the
+Ambassadors' carriages pass, and we got on a little. Various Court
+carriages passed us--one so pretty with the three little daughters of
+the Duke of Edinburgh all in white with straw hats, and long white
+feathers, sitting on the back seat, and smiling and bowing, and looking
+quite charming with their fair hair streaming down their backs. They had
+an equerry in uniform with them on the front seat. Once past St. James's
+Street we went quickly enough thro' long lines of soldiers, and behind
+them quantities of people waiting patiently to see the great show. We
+went into the Abbey at the Poets' Corner, where an entrance was reserved
+for the Corps Diplomatique and Court functionaries. It was a fine sight;
+tier upon tier of seats covered with red cloth and filled with men in
+uniform, and women in handsome dresses. The Peers and Peeresses sat just
+below us and looked very well; as it was Collar Day, all the Garter men
+wore their white shoulder-knots, which were most effective. It was very
+difficult to distinguish people, the building is so enormous, but as we
+were close to the dais we saw all the Royalties perfectly. At last
+various members of the Royal Family came in, and the first Sovereign to
+enter was Her Majesty of the Sandwich Islands with her cortége; then
+came quickly the King of the Belgians, King of Denmark, various other
+Princes, and they all took their places on a platform facing the Queen's
+dais. We waited some time, and then came a flourish of trumpets which
+announced the Queen's arrival. It was most interesting to see her come
+up the aisle--quite alone in front--her three sons, Wales, Edinburgh,
+and Connaught, just behind her. She was dressed in black with silver
+embroidery, a white lace bonnet with feathers, and lace caught back by
+diamond pins. As she reached the dais she stepped on it quite alone, and
+advancing to the front made a pretty curtsey to the assembled Royalties.
+Then came a long procession of family Princes, headed by the Prince of
+Wales and the German Crown Prince, who looked magnificent in his white
+uniform, and the Princess of Wales and the German Crown Princess. They
+all passed before the Queen, and it was most striking to see her seated
+there, a quiet figure dressed in black, very composed and smiling, yet
+"émue" too, as the long line of children and grandchildren representing
+all Europe passed to do her homage. It was a gorgeous crowd of uniforms,
+orders, jewels, and really _glittering_ garments of all kinds; but every
+eye was fixed on the central figure. The service began at once and was
+impressive. The Prince Consort's "Te Deum" sounded magnificent with
+organ and full band. I must own to considerable distraction during the
+service, as I was quite taken up with looking at everything. When the
+ceremony was over--or nearly--we started at once, found our carriage
+(ordinary landau) at the Poets' Corner again, and drove quickly around
+by Belgravia and Albert Gate (breaking the lines of troops once or
+twice, but with no difficulty, as orders had been given), to the corner
+of Hamilton Place and Piccadilly. There we had to leave the carriage,
+but it was merely a few steps to my friend's house where we were to see
+the procession pass; however we should never have got there if we hadn't
+found the 4 gigantic policemen who were waiting for us, and who
+deposited us rather pulled about, but intact, at the door. We found the
+balcony prettily decorated and filled with people, and had an excellent
+view of the procession. The Queen's carriage was handsome, an open
+landau red and gold, with six cream-coloured horses with red and gold
+trappings, and running footmen. She was alone on the back seat; the
+Princesses of Wales and Germany on the front seat. The escort of Princes
+was very brilliant. The Prince of Wales looked well on a fine horse, and
+the German Crown Prince superb, towering over everyone else, and his
+helmet shining in the bright sunlight. The cheering was tremendous as
+the Queen passed, and one felt it was absolutely genuine (nothing
+commandé), her people (I always like that phrase so much, "My people,"
+when she uses it in a speech or proclamation) really delighted to have
+her still with them. Another who also was much cheered was Princess Mary
+of Teck. They love her, and she looked so happy and smiling as she
+acknowledged the salutation. She has such a gracious manner always to
+everyone--never seems bored. However I must say that for the Prince of
+Wales; no matter what the function is (and he must be bored very often)
+he never looks it, but always does graciously, and as if he liked it,
+whatever he undertakes. There was a very substantial lunch provided for
+us at Lady Borthwick's, and as soon as the cortége disappeared I
+clamoured for something to eat, as it was nearly 3.30, and I had had
+nothing to eat but my early cup of tea and piece of toast about 8.30. I
+went straight back to the Embassy after luncheon--even then, at 4
+o'clock, we had to go at a foot's pace thro' the crowd--and I didn't
+stir again all the afternoon, but I had visitors at tea-time, as of
+course the windows and balconies giving on the Park were most
+attractive. There were thousands of people still in the Park, and Royal
+carriages and escorts coming and going; music, flags, and a general
+impression of movement and colour everywhere.
+
+[Illustration: Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the State
+Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887.
+
+From a photograph copyright, by Hughes & Mullins, Ryde, England.]
+
+In the evening we started at 10 for the Palace, and they thought there
+would be such a crowd that we had a mounted policeman, but we had no
+trouble. Everyone made way for the carriage, though, of course, the
+general traffic was stopped, and everybody (including our own
+secretaries, who weren't invited to the Palace, merely the "chefs de
+mission") in the middle of the streets, looking at the illuminations.
+There was great confusion at the Palace--dinners still going on and
+servants hurrying backward and forward with dishes, and piles of plates
+on the floor as we passed through the long corridor. We had to pass
+through the great hall where the numerous "suites" were dining--and we
+naturally hesitated a moment as they were still at table--but Colonel
+Byng came forward and ushered us upstairs, and into one of the large
+rooms. There were very few people--the "chefs de mission," the Nunzio
+who had come expressly, Lord and Lady Salisbury, and Lord C., Indian
+Secretary (as there were many Indian Princes). We waited nearly an hour
+and were then summoned to the ball-room, where the Queen and Court were
+assembled. The Queen was standing, dressed just as she always is for a
+Drawing-room, with her small diamond crown and veil, and again the
+background of Princes and uniforms made a striking contrast to the one
+black-robed figure. The Prince of Wales stood a little behind, on her
+right, also Lord Lathom (Lord Chamberlain). We all passed before her,
+two by two, with our husbands, and she said a few words to each one, but
+no real conversation; it was evidently an effort, and we felt we must
+not stay a moment longer than necessary. I talked to one or two people
+while the others were passing. The German Crown Princess came over and
+talked to us. I asked her if the Queen was very tired. She said not
+nearly as much as she expected, it was more the anticipation of the day
+that had made her nervous, that she was very agitated when she started,
+but that wore off, and she was not very tired this evening, and very
+happy, as were all her children, I said, "You might add her people,
+Madam, for I never saw such a splendid outburst of loyalty." The Crown
+Princess herself is perfectly delightful, so clever and cultivated, and
+so easy, with such beautiful, clear, smiling eyes. Do you remember how
+much I admired her in Rome the first time I met her? She is always so
+kind to us. W. loves to talk to her; they don't always agree, but she
+quite understands people having their own opinions, rather prefers it, I
+think, as she must necessarily be so often thrown with people who never
+venture to disagree with her. The Crown Prince of Sweden also came and
+recalled himself to me, and the Duc d'Aoste. The Queen remained about an
+hour; then the Royal party moved off in procession, and we got our
+carriages as quickly as we could. I have written you a volume (but you
+must say that doesn't happen often from my lazy pen, but I felt I must
+write at once, or I should never have the courage). Please send the
+letter to the family in America. I am dead tired, and my eyes shutting
+by themselves.
+
+    #London#, June 22, 1887
+
+We went this afternoon with the Florians, Comte de Florian, Secretary of
+the Embassy, and Comtesse de Florian, Francis, Baroness Hilda Deichmann
+and her children and some of the Embassy men, to the children's fête in
+Hyde Park. It was very pretty, and very well arranged; 30,000 children
+from all parts of London, and amusements, food, and jubilee mugs
+provided for all. We got there a little after 3, and it was warm and
+fatiguing standing and walking about. There were various refreshment
+tents for the "quality committee," etc., and the children got iced cream
+and cakes to their hearts' content, also each a jubilee mug with which
+they were much pleased. The Prince and Princess of Wales, with some of
+the foreign Princes, came about 4 (and horribly bored the foreigners
+looked--naturally). We stood and walked about until 6, when the Queen
+arrived. Her procession was rather pretty, just a troop of mounted
+police, then the Life Guards, the Indian contingent, and the Queen in an
+open carriage with 4 horses, the postilions in black, and two Highland
+servants in costume behind. The Crown Princess of Germany, Princess
+Christian, and Duke of Edinburgh in the carriage with her; and the Duke
+of Cambridge (Ranger of the Park) riding at the portière. Several Royal
+carriages followed, all the women in smart clothes, and the men in
+uniform, as the Queen was to make her formal Jubilee entrée into Windsor
+on leaving London after the fête. There was such a press and jostling
+when the Queen came--even the women pushing and struggling to get to the
+front, that I should have been nearly crushed with the two children (I
+had Hilda and Francis with me) if Prince Hermann of Saxe-Weimar hadn't
+recognised me and come to my rescue. He is very tall and broad, so he
+made way for me, put the children in front, and then stood behind me so
+that no one could get at me. I must say it was a fine struggle, the
+ladies used their arms valiantly. A small slight woman would have had no
+show at all. The Queen didn't get out of her carriage. The Prince stood
+bareheaded at the carriage door all the time the Queen was there, and
+various people were brought up and presented to her. I found plenty of
+people to talk to, among others the German Crown Prince, who they say is
+in a very bad way; he doesn't look changed, perhaps a little thinner,
+but the voice has gone. He spoke in a whisper. He noticed the children,
+said Francis was very like his father. I told him Hilda was a little
+compatriote, and named her to him. He knows her parents well. The Queen
+was much cheered as she drove off; then there were more cheers for the
+Prince, who acknowledged them most graciously, as he does always. We had
+again rather a struggle to get through the crowd and across to the
+Embassy, and then at 6.30 I had some tea, got into a tea-gown, and
+refused to move again. W. tried to entice me to the Foreign Office where
+there was a big reception, but I was utterly incapable of another word
+(the heat always tries me so); so he departed sadly, but didn't stay
+long--merely showed himself. He said the crowd was awful, and Lord
+Cranborne, the son of the house, in a wild state on the stairs, with his
+supper list, as he couldn't find half the people. W. told him not to
+worry about us, as he was going home, and I was in bed.
+
+[Illustration: The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the Uniform
+Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, London June, 1887
+
+From a photograph by Loescher & Petsch Berlin]
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    June 24, 1887.
+
+Yesterday I had rather a quiet day, I was still so dead tired after the
+children's fête. Jean and I drove about in the afternoon. She wanted to
+see the "Black Queen," as the Queen of the Sandwich Islands is called,
+and we crossed her once or twice driving in the Park. It does look funny
+to see her sitting up in the Royal carriage with red liveries. We had a
+beautiful ball last night, given by Lord and Lady Rosebery at Lansdowne
+House for all the Royalties. The House was beautifully arranged; the
+ballroom panelled half way up the wall with red roses and green leaves.
+I danced a quadrille with the King of Greece, who is easy and talks a
+great deal; he speaks English perfectly well. He asked about the
+Schuylers, and spoke most warmly of them--said Schuyler was one of the
+few perfectly intelligent men he had ever met, "knew everything about
+everything," I must write it to them. The supper was very well arranged,
+small tables of eight or ten. Almost all the Royalties were there, but
+not the Hawaiian Queen. I asked our host why he hadn't invited Queen
+Kapiolani; but he said he really couldn't. The ball was small, and Lady
+Rosebery left out many of her friends, who naturally were not pleased.
+W. actually stayed to supper--I was so surprised, as he hates it.
+
+    June 24, 1887.
+
+This afternoon all the swells went to Ranelagh to see a polo match, but
+I thought I would reserve myself for the Palace Ball. The Queen didn't
+appear, but we had two others, the Queen of the Belgians, and always
+Kapiolani. It was badly managed at first, the result being that when the
+Court came we had a crowd of people, officers, pages, etc., about four
+deep in front of us, so that we could neither see nor be seen, nor
+hardly move. When the first "quadrille d'honneur" was being danced we
+saw nothing, so after a consultation we all left the ball-room. Then
+there were various "pourparlers," and they finally did what they should
+have done at first, enlarged the circle, so that we were out of the
+crowd and near the Court. There was also a great rush at supper, so that
+they had to shut one door for a moment. I didn't see many people to talk
+to, but of course it was very difficult. The Grand Duchess Serge looked
+beautiful, with splendid emeralds (she is the daughter of Princess
+Alice), and the Duchesse de Braganza (daughter of the Comte de Paris)
+was charming, so very high-bred, tall and slight, with a pretty little
+dark head. I always find the Princess of Wales the most distinguished
+looking. She stands out everywhere. Our "Doyenne," Countess Karolyi, was
+superb--also with magnificent jewels. The Indian Princes made a great
+show, of course, with their silk, heavily embroidered tuniques, and the
+quantities of jewels, but they are not often well cut, nor well set, and
+they themselves are certainly off color--they look barbarians, and have
+such false faces--I wouldn't trust one of them.
+
+    #London#,
+    July 3, 1887.
+
+It is delicious summer weather now, and yesterday we went to Buckingham
+Palace to see the Queen review the Volunteers. I wore for the first time
+my Jubilee Medal. It came Friday with a note from the Duchess of
+Roxburghe saying the Queen hoped I would wear it as a souvenir of her
+Jubilee. It is a plain little silver medal about the size of a
+two-shilling piece, with the Queen's head on one side and an inscription
+on the other, fastened to a bow of blue and white ribbon. We three
+Ambassadresses are the only women of the Corps Diplomatique that have
+it. All the Queen's household have it, Duchesses of Bedford, Buccleuch,
+Roxburghe, etc. The Princesses, also, of course, but theirs are in gold.
+
+It was most amusing waiting in the courtyard of the Palace seeing
+everyone arrive. All the Royalties took up their positions at the foot
+of the Queen's tribune, and waited for her. Our tribune was on one side
+of hers, and one for the Indian Princes opposite. The Volunteers looked
+and passed very well; as it was Saturday afternoon and the shops in
+London are closed early always Saturday, all the various butchers,
+bakers, and candle-stick-makers could leave their shops and parade, and
+extremely well some of them looked; stout, heavy men moving quite
+lightly and at ease in their stiff uniforms. It was pretty to see the
+various Princes break away from their places on the Duke of Cambridge's
+staff and ride ahead of the various regiments of which they are honorary
+colonels. The Prince of Wales looked well on his handsome chestnut,
+which is perfectly trained and steps beautifully. The Duke of Connaught
+is a handsome soldier. We were a long time getting away, but as we had
+no dinner-party it wasn't of any consequence. It was such a pleasure not
+to put on a low bodice and diamonds. I always grumble about putting on
+my diadem--as a rule I never wear anything in my hair, not even feathers
+(except at Court), and the diadem is heavy. After dinner W. and I went
+for a drive along the Thames Embankment--our favourite recreation after
+a long, hot day. There are still people about, and a general air of
+festivity.
+
+    #London#,
+    July 21, 1887.
+
+It is just four years to-day since W. came to London. We got back from
+Moscow and the Coronation the 6th, and almost immediately the Minister
+offered W. London. My "beau-frère" said he would give us two years when
+we came over. I wonder how much longer it will last. We had a big dinner
+to-night, and Lord Lathom, the Lord Chamberlain, was next to me. He said
+no one could imagine how difficult it had been to arrange everything for
+the Jubilee ceremonies; that the Queen was consulted _on every point_,
+as she knew more about etiquette and court ceremonies than anyone else.
+One day he had 42 telegrams from her. We told him we thought everything
+was well managed (except the ball, where all the young officers crowded
+in front of us, and stepped on our toes, and on our trains). He quite
+admitted that that might have been better done, but also remarked that
+he thought the Corps Diplomatique a little exacting; so, as usual, there
+are two sides to every question.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    July 25, 1887.
+
+We have had a nice outing, Dear, thanks to the Naval Review; two such
+beautiful interesting days. I am burned brown as a berry, but, as the
+season is over, that is of no consequence, and I shall have plenty of
+time at Bourneville to bleach. We started Saturday at 9.30 for
+Portsmouth with the Florians, Waru, and R., Naval Attaché, in a special
+train. The harbour looked so pretty as we came in sight of it. Every
+description of vessel (even the "Victory," Nelson's old ship, now a
+training ship), and all sorts of ironclads, big steamers, yachts, and
+the smallest sort of pleasure-boat, dressed with flags. We went at once
+on board the "Helicon," a small despatch boat, especially destined to
+the Corps Diplomatique and distinguished strangers. There were about 150
+people on board, all colleagues, also the Arch Duke Regnier of Austria,
+and the two young sons of the Duc d'Aoste with their suites. Directly
+after us came two great English transports painted white, one for the
+Lords, and one for the Commons, and all around us a fleet of ordinary
+rowing-boats and barges filled with people--quantities of women and
+children. We steamed slowly across the Solent to Osborne to meet the
+Queen, and passed close to the great ironclads, which looked monsters,
+and formidable ones. We had a handsome substantial lunch on board, to
+which we all did honour. There were not many foreign ships. Our two
+looked very well and were much admired, an old frigate, the "Iphigénie,"
+now a training ship, with the midshipmen on board, and the "Élan," a
+pretty little despatch boat. There were only two other foreign boats: a
+German and a Dutchman. The Italian ships put into Spithead, and then
+went off to Dartmouth, no one knows why exactly. Some say they were not
+satisfied with their place (they arrived after the French ships, and
+would have been decidedly farther off, and behind ours), others that
+they were not in good condition, not smart enough; however, they were
+not there and the Italian Princesses who had expected to sleep on board,
+and meet their brother who is on one of the ships, were much disgusted.
+As soon as the "Osborne," with the Queen, the Prince of Wales, and the
+King of Greece (we didn't understand the Greek flag at first, as we
+didn't know the King was on board), had passed, we followed and went
+down the line. It was a beautiful sight, and England could certainly be
+proud of her great ironclads filling the harbour, and showing her
+strength as a naval power. We went slowly, and it was amusing to hear
+the criticisms and appreciations of all the assembled foreigners on the
+show--however, I suppose all ironclads now are pretty much alike, only
+England happens to have three times as many as any of the rest of us.
+About 6 o'clock there was a halt. We of course had tea on deck, and
+suddenly we saw quantities of steam launches coming across the water in
+all directions. They looked like enormous white birds in the distance.
+They were almost all white, low in the water, and going very fast. The
+captains of all the ships had been called on board the Queen's yacht to
+be received by her. This made a long delay, and our colleagues were
+getting impatient, as they foresaw that they would be very late in
+getting back to London. We took that opportunity to ask the Captain of
+the "Helicon" to bear down toward the "Iphigénie," as we were to dine
+and sleep on board. We changed our course a little, and in about 10
+minutes two very smart French boats ran alongside, coming up in grand
+style. The three English officers stood on the bridge and helped us off,
+and I must say it was all done admirably--not the slightest confusion,
+and we were a big party. Our fellow-passengers decidedly envied us. The
+Bylandts (Dutch Minister) were much put out. They had asked the Captain
+of their ship to let them dine and sleep on board, but he refused
+absolutely; said he had just arrived from a long cruise, and was not
+prepared to receive anyone. We got to the "Iphigénie" in about 15
+minutes. The Commandant, Noccomore, was standing on the bridge. W. got
+out first, then T., and as soon as W. put his foot on the deck, where
+all the sailors, officers, and midshipmen were drawn up, there was a
+salute of drums and clarions (they couldn't give the regular salute of
+guns to the Ambassador, as, when the Queen is in the harbour, no one
+else can be saluted). The Commandant gave me his arm, and we went at
+once to his quarters (or rather "carré," as they say on board ship). We
+passed through a fine room or hall, the entire width of the frigate,
+where a good-sized dinner-table was ready. The Commandant asked when we
+would dine; we said in a "quart d'heure," just the time to wash our
+faces, which were black with smoke and red with sun, and he showed W.
+and me our quarters (his of course), and most comfortable. The cabin
+large, with a wardrobe, and a large "cabinet de toilette," with English
+wash-stand, bath-room, etc. For one person it was perfectly roomy. Of
+course when a second bed was put in the "cabinet de toilette" it was a
+little small. Mmes. de Florian and Heurtel had the second officer's
+cabin, and the men hammocks in some part of the ship.
+
+The dinner was good and handsome. I had the "Aumônier" on the other side
+of me. He was intelligent, ready to talk about anything, and the dinner
+was very agreeable. Plenty of talk. W. talked a great deal, and the
+naval officers were interesting, as they always are. They have seen so
+much, and had such varied experiences. After dinner we had coffee in the
+Commandant's salon, and then went on deck, where we spent a delightful
+evening. The sea was perfectly calm, not a ripple, and lights
+everywhere--all the ships illuminated and sending off fireworks at
+intervals. We could hardly see our own, but the little "Élan" looked
+very smart and natty. We broke up about 11, and I don't know when I have
+enjoyed anything so much as that perfectly quiet summer night on the
+water; such a rest after the long day, and early start from London. We
+promised to be ready at a quarter to 10 for Mass, and the visit of the
+ship. You would have been amused to see how well Drejet did my service
+(they asked me if I could do without my maid for one night, as they
+really didn't know what to do with her). He told Adelaïde he could do
+everything for me except my hair, and tying my sash, which seemed to be
+a serious performance to him, and really all my dressing things were put
+out and a "saut de lit" disposed gracefully over the back of a chair
+just as A. always did. I supposed she coached him. I was stirring early
+enough the next morning, but I couldn't tie my sash either, so I
+wandered out on the deck to have my early tea, and Countess de Florian
+helped me to finish my toilette. We went all over the ship before Mass.
+The midshipmen's quarters are small, but of course beautifully kept, and
+the young men all looked as smiling and prosperous as possible, and were
+much pleased at the Ambassador's visit. At 10 o'clock we assembled on
+deck for Mass. Part of the deck was covered in with flags, and as a
+compliment to my nationality they had put the "Stars and Stripes"
+immediately over my head. I was much pleased, as it is a good many years
+since I have sat under the old flag. I suppose I can't say _my flag_ any
+more, but I feel it all the same. There were three armchairs directly in
+front of the altar--two big ones for W. and me and a smaller one between
+for the Commandant. As soon as we were seated the Abbé came, made a bow
+to W. and me, and began his Mass. It was very impressive--so still, not
+a sound except the little waves beating against the side of the ship,
+and the word of command for the marines at the raising of the Host, when
+there was a fine salute of drums and bugles. We had a very gay
+breakfast, the Captain of the "Élan" coming to join us, and at 1 o'clock
+we left our hospitable frigate for the "Élan" which was going to cruise
+about with us all the afternoon. They certainly received us most
+hospitably and charmingly; I shall often think of those quiet hours on
+the deck, and the Mass this morning, which impressed me very much. We
+had a lovely afternoon on the "Élan," practically doing the Review over
+again, and going close up to the big ironclads, such ugly, heavy masses
+as they seem when one is near them. We crossed over to Cowes, went
+alongside of the Prince of Wales' yacht, but didn't stop. The captain
+gave us an interesting account of their reception on the "Osborne." It
+seems there was some mistake in the orders brought by the Aide-de-Camp
+of the Admiral of the Fleet. The Commandant of the "Iphigénie" thought
+he could take several officers with him, and when he appeared on the
+"Osborne" with 5 or 6 officers, the Admiral was much embarrassed, and
+didn't know what to do, as the Queen intended to receive only the
+Commandants. However the Prince of Wales, with his never-failing tact,
+said he would put it all right, and in a few moments they were told that
+the Queen would be very pleased to receive _all_ the French officers.
+They told us they saw a lady in deep mourning, with perfectly white
+hair, standing behind the Queen, who looked so earnestly at the French
+uniforms, and was agitated when they passed; they only realised
+afterward that it was the Empress.[9] I wonder if I shall ever see her,
+I would like to so much. We dined on board, anchored just off
+Portsmouth, and got back to London about 11 o'clock, having enjoyed our
+two days immensely. It was a beautiful ending to the Jubilee, and a
+beautiful sight. The "cadre" was so lovely for all those big ships. All
+the line of the Isle of Wight is so pretty, beautifully green, and the
+Solent covered with boats of all descriptions, and plenty of room for
+all. Some of the small row-boats seemed dangerously near the big
+steamers, but nothing ever happened. When I get back to Bourneville and
+take up my quiet life in the woods, these last days will seem a sort of
+fairy-tale.
+
+[9] Empress Eugénie, widow of Napoleon III., who has lived in England
+for many years.
+
+[Illustration: Comtesse de Florian
+From a photograph by Walery, London.]
+
+    #London#,
+    July 29, 1887.
+
+We are starting to-morrow. I had a farewell ride this morning, hardly
+anyone in the Row, Dandy going beautifully (you know he is the chestnut
+I called after the famous horse in one of Charlie's stories), except a
+good kick from time to time, which is a bore, not only for me (I lost my
+hat the other day), but for the neighbours. We dined at Lord A.'s last
+night, and he gave us a funny account of his experience on the House of
+Lords boat. To begin with he had much difficulty in getting tickets, and
+could get none for his daughters, only himself and Lady A. (and he is
+Hereditary Lord Chamberlain), and when he finally did get on the boat he
+found it crowded with all sorts of unknown people, very few peers, and
+very little food. They were faint with hunger before the end of the day,
+so I told him about our handsome dinner and hospitable reception on our
+frigate. Bylandt then told us how badly they fared. They cruised about
+for some time in the "Helicon" after we got off, then finally the
+passengers begged to be landed. They were at last deposited at
+Portsmouth, and then made a rush for the buffet in the railway station,
+but that had been completely "devalisé," there wasn't a crumb, not even
+a dry biscuit. Then they were conducted with much pomp to reserved
+carriages which were _locked_, and there they remained for over an hour,
+seeing various trains start, and at last arrived in London at one
+o'clock in the morning. Poor Bylandt was much disgusted. We thought a
+little of asking to keep the "Élan" for a week, and of doing the Cowes
+week, but W. thought on the whole it would be close quarters, and was
+not very keen about it. I should have liked it. We had all the staff who
+remain to dine to-night. London is curiously empty--all the chairs being
+taken away from the Park, which gives it a decided air of "fin de
+saison."
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Albert Gate House#,
+    March 2, 1888.
+
+I have been back about two weeks and am quite settled again. I have
+always two or three disagreeable days when I first come back from
+France. The coal fires try me very much and I think regretfully of the
+enormous chimneys at Bourneville and the _trees_ that we burned there.
+We have a fog and it is very cold. Francis and I went to skate yesterday
+at the Botanical Gardens. The ice was very bad, there was very little
+room, and swarms of children struggling along on their little skates,
+but the outing was pleasant. I also went one day with a friend to
+Wimbledon, and that was better. We drove down and had a pleasant
+afternoon, but the ice was soft, and it was the end. Really though, in
+March in England, one could hardly expect to skate.
+
+    March 8th.
+
+Hilda came in this morning with very bad news of the German Emperor. The
+Crown Prince was to start from the Riviera, and I am afraid he is in a
+bad way too. He looked such a magnificent man at the Jubilee Fêtes. Of
+course even then his voice and colour showed that something was wrong,
+but it was difficult to believe that a mortal disease was mining his
+strength. We have had telegrams all the afternoon, and at 5 they told us
+the Emperor was dead. We sent immediately to Mrs. Jeune, where we were
+engaged to dine to meet Prince and Princess Christian of
+Schleswig-Holstein, to know if her dinner was put off; but the answer
+came back that the dinner was to take place. We went of course, and
+found Princess Christian and Lady Salisbury. Prince Christian, as a
+German Prince and a relation of the German Royal Family, did not come;
+neither did Lord Salisbury, who had received a telegram from Berlin
+announcing the Emperor's death. The Princess looked anxious and was
+evidently very much worried at the journey of the Crown Prince in such
+weather, in his delicate state. She left almost instantly after dinner.
+The Drawing-room is postponed. The Crown Prince starts to-morrow
+morning. All eyes are upon him, and will follow his journey with hopes
+and fears.
+
+    Sunday, March 18th.
+
+We all went to the funeral service for the German Emperor this morning
+in the German Lutheran Chapel close to Marlborough House. I was quite
+correct this time, and was swathed in crêpe; Mrs. Lecky has lent me her
+long crêpe veil, which will serve again probably, as everyone seems to
+think the Emperor Frederick is doomed. All the men were in uniform with
+crêpe on their sleeves and sword hilts (the Germans with their helmets
+covered with crêpe) and the women in woollen dresses with crêpe veils.
+Almost all the Princesses were there (not the Princess of Wales), but
+the Princes were in Berlin. The service was long, and curiously enough
+was _not_ the Lutheran service, but the regular Church of England
+service translated into German. It was done, it seems, for George II,
+who was obliged to follow the Church of England service, and who didn't
+understand a _word_ of English. There was much chanting, two addresses,
+and a sermon.
+
+Everyone of course is talking and speculating over what will happen in
+Germany. All the doctors say the Emperor Frederick is near his end. No
+one seems to know exactly what will be the attitude of the present Crown
+Prince. He is young, intelligent, with an iron will; all good qualities
+in a sovereign, but he has little experience and an absolute confidence
+in his own judgment.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#, April 25, 1888.
+
+We hear a great deal now here about Boulanger, and there seems to be the
+most extraordinary "engouement" for him here as well as in France.
+Roustan, the Naval Attaché, has just come back from Paris and says the
+state of things is very serious, people have lost their heads over
+Boulanger. He (R.) thinks it is the most serious crisis France has
+passed through since the Commune. W. is less blue--he knows the famous
+General very little, but doesn't think there is much character or
+backbone there.
+
+We had a big dinner the other night at Lord Rothschild's, and Lord
+Hartington, a well-known political and social figure, sat between me and
+the Princesse de Wagram. He naturally asked us, the only two Frenchwomen
+at table, what we thought of Boulanger. The Princess spoke most
+enthusiastically of him. The one man in France who could regenerate the
+country, and who would be supported by all parties. I said exactly the
+contrary, and that I thought his popularity and power very much
+exaggerated. Lord Hartington was rather amused at the two opinions so
+absolutely at variance.
+
+The Deichmanns came to see us the other day, just back from Berlin, and
+in despair over the Emperor. Deichmann said he came into the room with
+the same straight, soldierly bearing he had always had, and except that
+he was thinner, looked unchanged; but he couldn't speak, and his friends
+fear the worst. He is worried too over the friction between the Empress
+and Bismarck--too such strong wills in conflict.
+
+    #London#,
+    April 26, 1888.
+
+I wonder if you are as cold as I am to-day. I have been driving about
+shivering in the open carriage and my seal-skin felt like a foulard. I
+think I got cold last night. We had a pleasant dinner at Lord
+Knutsford's. I had Count Kufstein next to me. He was for years in Paris
+at the Austrian Embassy just when I was first married and making my
+début in the official world. He is here now for the sugar conference,
+and we were delighted to go back to old times, as he knows everybody in
+Paris of all kinds: Imperialists, Royalists, and Republicans. It wasn't
+always easy for a foreigner to get along and not offend somebody. On our
+way home W. suggested that we should go in for a moment to the W. H.
+Smiths' who had a big political reception. In a weak moment I agreed. It
+is not really necessary to go to those big parties--one can be written
+down in the book by one of the secretaries, or give the names to the
+lady of the _Morning Post_ who sits with her hat and coat behind the
+door, and puts down as many names as she can manage. I should think she
+would have perpetual rheumatism, as the hall door is open and the
+draught something awful. The moment I set my foot in the hall my heart
+sank, such a crowd on the stairs, I should think all the House of
+Commons and all their female relations. There was a double current going
+and coming, and I was thankful not to have my dress torn to bits. We met
+Tom Leigh coming down. He said he had been 15 minutes on the same step.
+However we did manage to get upstairs--tried to find either host or
+hostess, but they had evidently left the door--so after struggling
+through one or two rooms packed tight with people I discovered a high
+wooden stool behind one of the doors which had evidently been used for
+lighting the candles and been forgotten, so I seated myself on that and
+told W. I would wait for him there, as he thought he would try and find
+some one of the family. I sat there some little time rather interested
+in the stream of perfectly unknown faces which passed until I was
+rescued by Correa, the Brazilian Minister, who couldn't believe that it
+was really the French Ambassadress sitting alone on a three-legged stool
+behind the door. W. came back in about a quarter of an hour not having
+seen any one he knew, and then we started down the staircase where we
+had the same struggle, and the cold air blowing in upon my bare
+shoulders. I was cross when I got home--however I suppose exactly the
+same thing happens when we have a big reception, as the Embassy is not
+nearly large enough. The other night when the Duke of Cambridge dined
+with us we had a party afterward. W. went down to the door with him and
+never got up again, there was such a crowd on the stairs.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#, May 19, 1888.
+
+The season is animated enough and we are out every night (not all day,
+as so many people are, as we refuse all lunches and teas). Our music the
+other evening with Wolff, the young Dutch violinist, and Mdme. Kleeberg,
+was nice. We had invited only about 50 people, all musical. Everyone
+could sit down (which the men appreciated, as they usually _stand_ in
+the doorway all through the concert), and also we were not obliged to
+have those rows of gilt chairs which grate so on my nerves. I know the
+women hate it so when they are all seated in rows very close to each
+other and not a man anywhere near. Wolff played divinely, with so much
+tone and sentiment. He had a great success. Mdme. Kleeberg always plays
+beautifully. She is well known here and much liked. It was the first
+time Wolff had played in London, and he was a little nervous.
+
+Last night we dined with Lady Delawarr to meet Princess Louise and Lord
+Lorne. The Princess is charming; a pretty, graceful figure and
+attractive manner, absolutely what the Italians would call "simpatica."
+Lord Lorne took me to dinner, and I found him most entertaining and
+original. He talked a great deal about Canada and America, and certainly
+knows and appreciates "the States." He said if he hadn't been born the
+eldest son of an English Duke he would certainly emigrate to the West of
+America and pitch his tent there.
+
+There was a reception and music in the evening, Wolff playing
+beautifully, but, alas! no one listening. Lady Borthwick (who is a good
+musician) and I moved into the large drawing-room at his request when he
+began to play, and I really don't think anyone else scarcely listened,
+and certainly no one realised when, after playing a few moments under
+great difficulty (people coming and going and talking all the time), he
+calmly laid his violin on the piano and stopped. He came up to me to
+explain, what I quite understood, that he could hear neither his own
+violin nor the accompaniment, and I could not urge him to continue. It
+is very hard on the artists, an evening like that. If they don't play
+well, everyone criticises; and if they stop altogether, people think it
+is high-handed, and criticise equally. I have learnt now by experience
+and never invite _many_ people when I have music.
+
+    May 22, 1888.
+
+We had a pleasant evening last night at Sir Arthur Sullivan's who had a
+dinner for the Prince of Wales and the Duke and Duchess Paul of
+Mecklenburg. There were all kinds of artists--singing, reciting, and
+dancing. An American girl, with a very pretty voice, sang very well, and
+Letty Lind was charming. The Duchess Paul looked very pretty and chic,
+and was most amiable. The Prince is so nice to artists--always a
+gracious word and smile. Sullivan is an excellent host, and keeps
+everything going. Just as we arrived the electric light went out. I
+couldn't imagine why the house looked so dark as we drove up, for I knew
+the Prince was dining, and there was the red carpet which always
+indicates Royalty, so there could be no mistake, but the hall-door was
+open and lamps and candles being brought in from all quarters. We took
+off our cloaks in the dark, but in a very few minutes things were put
+right, and the rooms brilliantly illuminated. W. never remains long on
+these occasions, but I stayed until the end, even for supper, which was
+very gay.
+
+    #London#, May 24, 1888.
+
+My small musical tea for the Duchess Paul was very successful I think
+yesterday. I could not have Johannes Wolff, the violinist, which I
+regretted extremely. He plays quite beautifully, with so much "entrain"
+and sentiment. I think I have already written to you about him, he is a
+Dutchman who was sent to me by Mdme. de Zuylen (you remember Zuylen who
+was so long Dutch Minister in Paris). It was a little discouraging at
+first, there is such a tremendous concurrence in London, and English
+people like to hear the same artists, whom they know well; Joachim,
+Sarasate, and Mdme. Neruda have it all their own way. However, I made a
+small party for him, all musical people, Lady Borthwick, Mrs. Ronalds,
+Tosti, Lord Lathom, etc., and he conquered his public at once. It was
+splendid playing and a style quite his own. We replaced him by Mdme. Le
+Valloit, who plays very well; and had besides Picolellis (from
+Florence), who plays well (cello), and Carpe, the Italian baritone who
+has a big voice and sings in the Italian style. The audience listened
+pretty well at first, then came tea and the clatter of tea-cups in the
+blue room where all the jeunesse had congregated, talking and laughing
+and having their tea with a fine unconsciousness of the music going on
+in the next room. They are really very tiresome. That reminds me of
+Grieg who was very "difficile," and who couldn't stand a sound when he
+was playing. He and his wife came to the Embassy one night and played
+and sang quite charmingly, and everybody was delighted. Quite at the
+last moment one of the Royalties talked a little while he was playing,
+and I saw the moment when he would get up from the piano. However, Wolff
+and I between us managed to calm him. When it was over I told him what a
+success he had had--that the Prince had enjoyed his playing so much, to
+which he replied--"Ja, der hat es laut gesagt."
+
+Duchess Paul was very amiable, stayed until after 7 and seemed to enjoy
+it; at least she listened and spoke very nicely to the artists
+afterward. I had just time to dress for a dinner at the Austrian
+Embassy.
+
+    May 26, 1888.
+
+We dined to-night with our cousins the Ivor Herberts, a dinner for the
+Duke and Duchess Paul of Mecklenburg. We were asked for 8.15, and they
+never came until 9, looking quite unconcerned. I can't imagine how the
+cooks manage. Juteau tears his hair when we are so late, but he is
+getting accustomed to English hours now, and doesn't get ready himself
+until a quarter of an hour after the time fixed. We were a perfect bore
+to all our friends at first with our French punctuality, and arrived
+once or twice before the master of the house. W. consulted Lord
+Granville, who told him his rule was to leave his house _at the hour
+named for the dinner_; but as we dine sometimes around the corner, and
+sometimes at Kensington that is not always practical. People in Paris
+are very punctual and never wait more than a quarter of an hour for
+anyone. I remember quite well when I was first married, and my husband
+was a Cabinet Minister, being late for dinner at Comte Paul de Ségur's.
+When we arrived they were at table. Among the guests was the Duc
+d'Audifret-Pasquier, President of the Senate--he had arrived in time and
+they wouldn't keep him waiting more than the "quart d'heure de grâce." I
+was very much surprised, as after all my husband was a personage, but I
+must say I think the rule is a good one. I was next to the Duke and
+found him very pleasant. He is a brother of the Grand Duchess Wladimir,
+and he talked about the Coronation, and some of the curious, half
+barbaric ceremonies. He had been lunching at Sheen with the Comte de
+Paris, and was much impressed with the dull, sad look of the place. It
+does look gloomy, enclosed in high walls, such a contrast to Eu and the
+beautiful, bright sunny homes where the Orléans Princes spent their
+childish years.
+
+    #Albert Gate#, May 30th.
+
+To-night we have a quiet evening, and are glad to have a chance to talk
+over Boulanger (who is coming here) and various troublesome questions.
+We dined last night with the Duchess of Westminster to meet Princess
+Mary and the Duke of Teck. The dinner was handsome and pleasant, and
+there was a small ball afterward. They danced in the picture gallery, a
+beautiful, large room, where the dresses and jewels showed to great
+advantage. We didn't stay very late as W. never dances, not even the
+regulation "Quadrille d'Honneur" at Court. He and Karolyi are the only
+diplomatists who never dance.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#, June 5, 1888.
+
+Yesterday was a beautiful summer day, the ideal Sunday of Bishop
+Keble--"The bridal of the earth and sky." We walked through the "Church
+Parade" coming back from Westminster. There were quantities of pretty
+girls dotted about the Park, looking so fresh and cool in their white
+dresses. I had various visits. Sunday is the _man's_ day in London, and
+the afternoon is generally interesting. The Spanish Ambassador came in.
+He had been lunching at Sheen with the Comte de Paris, and told me that
+the Prince asked him if he had seen his Collègue de France lately, and
+what _he_ thought of the state of things in France, and particularly
+what he thought of Boulanger. I told him I didn't think the French
+Ambassador shared the Comte de Paris' enthusiasm for that hero, but that
+_he_ had better ask him.
+
+About 5.30 W. and I started for White Lodge, Richmond Park, to dine with
+Princess Mary and the Duke of Teck. We found quite a party assembled in
+the garden around a tea-table, the Princess making the tea herself,
+Princess May and some of the young ones helping. The talk was pleasant
+and easy, Princess Mary is a charming hostess and _likes_ to talk (which
+is certainly not the case with all English women). She is very stout,
+but has a beautiful head and fine presence. Tosti and Picolellis dined,
+and played divinely after dinner. The evening was enchanting. We all sat
+in the big drawing-room opening on the garden. There was not much light,
+the moon shining through the trees, and the two artists playing as if
+inspired anything anyone asked for, from a Spohr sonata to an Italian
+canzonetta. I thought we should stay there all night--no one wanted to
+go home. The drive home was lovely, the London streets are so quiet
+Sunday night.
+
+    June 6th.
+
+This morning was the great meet of the coaches, and our terrace of
+course is in great request as it gives directly on the Park. It is
+always a pretty sight as everyone turns out. Lord Fife had the Prince of
+Wales with him, and the Princess was driving about with her three
+daughters in a victoria. The news of the German Emperor is very bad.
+
+    June 10th.
+
+This afternoon we had lovely music at Frank Schuster's. Both Wolff and
+Hollman played divinely. They are great rivals, both Dutchmen, and both
+great favourites (Hollman is 'cello). A trio with them and Mdme.
+Kleeberg at the piano is absolutely perfect.
+
+Our dinner at the Monks' was pleasant. I had Sir Rivers Wilson next to
+me, and he is a charming neighbour, has been everywhere, knows
+everybody, and talks easily without any pose. There was a concert in the
+evening--very good--Trebelli, Lloyd, Nordica, etc. I made acquaintance
+with Nordica, who is an American, Miss Norton, from Boston I think. She
+sings beautifully. I said to her (they were all talking hard between the
+songs), "What a noise! Can you ever begin?" "Oh, certainly," she said,
+"I shall make much more noise than they do," and she was quite right.
+Her voice rang through the room. One of her songs was Delibes' "Filles
+de Cadiz," which she sang splendidly.
+
+    June 12th.
+
+This afternoon we have been sight-seeing. Jean came to breakfast, and we
+started off with Jusserand and St. Genys to see the Panorama of Niagara,
+which they say is extremely well done. I wanted the foreigners to have
+an idea of our great Falls, for I think in their hearts they were rather
+disposed to agree with a statement in one of the Swiss guide-books in
+speaking of the falls of the Rhine at Schaffhausen, "generally supposed
+to surpass the celebrated Falls of Niagara in America." However they
+were agreeably disappointed and were much pleased and interested. The
+Panorama is really very good. It is so many years since I have seen
+Niagara that I had forgotten how magnificent the Horse Shoe Fall is, and
+I almost expected to hear the roar of the cataract, and to see the
+little Indian boy selling moccasins and maple sugar. I wonder if I would
+like maple sugar now. One of my French friends, Mdme. Casimir Perier, to
+whom I offered as a great treat some American home-made gingerbread,
+could hardly swallow it, and assured me that I couldn't eat it either if
+it had not been a "souvenir d'enfance." On leaving Niagara we went to
+the Aquarium to see a dog show. There were some fine specimens, but I
+didn't think any of the fox terriers as good as my Boniface. We also saw
+a swimming match, young ladies disporting themselves in the water in
+most wonderful costumes. Then to change our ideas we went into
+Westminster Abbey, just getting there for the end of the afternoon
+service. We heard the anthem, which was beautiful. It is such a good
+choir--some of the boys' voices divine, and they look like such little
+angels in their white surplices. A good many people were waiting to go
+round the Abbey at the end of the service, and we had some difficulty in
+getting away from the various guides who haunt the church and fall upon
+strangers. We wandered about with Jusserand for our cicerone. He knows
+everything about everything, and we had an interesting hour. Some of the
+old tombs are so curious. We got back to the Embassy for tea, having
+enjoyed ourselves immensely. I think in her heart Jean was rather
+shocked at the Aquarium performance--didn't think it was exactly the
+place for me--that was the reason I liked it, I suppose, I am so often
+now in the place where I ought to be.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    June 12, 1888.
+
+It is beautiful again to-day. We had a nice canter in the Row. Everyone
+was talking about the German Emperor, and speculating over the future.
+There is a curious mistrust of the young Prince. No one seems to know
+exactly what he will do, and what will be his attitude toward England.
+This afternoon we have been out to Chiswick with the Florians, and
+Francis, to launch a torpilleur built for the French Navy by
+Thornycroft. We found Thornycroft and some of his friends waiting for us
+at the entrance of the dockyard. They took us to a platform covered with
+red cloth erected quite close to the boat--which was prettily dressed
+with flags--the men said her shape was wonderful (for a torpilleur,
+which never can be graceful). They gave me a bottle of champagne, and
+told me what to do. I flung the bottle as hard as I could against the
+stern of the boat, saying "Success to the 'Coureur.'" It broke into a
+thousand pieces, the champagne spattering all over my dress. We then
+adjourned to a summer-house overlooking the river for tea, and afterward
+went over the boat. There are accommodations (such as they are) for two
+officers and nine men, but it must be most uncomfortable, particularly
+in rough weather. However, she was built for speed, Thornycroft told us,
+and everything was suppressed that was not absolutely necessary. I hope
+she will make a good record.
+
+    June 13th.
+
+Yesterday I decided quite suddenly to go to Ascot. It was a beautiful
+day, not too hot, and the Florians were quite ready to go with me. W.
+hates races and a long day in the country. We got down all right,
+hearing vague rumours on the way about the Emperor's death, but the
+Royal box was open, prepared evidently for the Princes, and there were
+quantities of people on the lawn. We were standing near the gate waiting
+to see the procession appear, when suddenly Lord Coventry, Master of the
+Buckhounds, rode in alone. Instantly everyone said there must be bad
+news from the German Emperor (which was true). The Prince of Wales had a
+telegram, just as he was getting into his carriage, from the Queen, to
+say the news was very bad, and none of them must go to the races. Very
+soon some of the gentlemen of the Prince's party arrived, among others
+Karolyi, who said the Emperor was dying--dead probably at that moment.
+The Prince's servants and lunch were sent back as soon as possible (of
+course all their provisions and servants had been sent to Ascot, as they
+have a big lunch party there every day), so we all lunched with Lord
+Coventry. I went up after lunch to the top of the stand to see the race,
+and had the satisfaction of seeing the French horse come in an _easy_
+last.
+
+We went to tea with Lady Diana Huddleston, who has a pretty cottage
+close to the course, and sat under the trees some time. I had refused a
+dinner in London, and was in no hurry to get back. We quite expected to
+see the Emperor's death in the evening papers, but he seems to have
+rallied again a little. Poor man, how terrible it is the way he fights
+for his life--and he has known from the first, they say, that there was
+no hope. I am so sorry for her--she is so clever, so ambitious, and
+would have done so much for Germany.
+
+    #Woburn Abbey#,
+    June 15, 1888.
+
+We arrived here yesterday for tea. It had rained hard in the morning. W.
+and I were riding and were taking our usual quick canter at the far end
+of the Park (Marble Arch) when the storm began. We got home as fast as
+we could, but were dripping, both of us. The water poured off my hat
+like a shower-bath when I took it off. We had just time to get dry and
+dress before starting for the station where we found the Duke's[10]
+régisseur waiting for us with a "wagon-salon." We had a short railway
+journey through pretty English village country; then a drive of half an
+hour brought us here. The Park is enormous, fine trees and beautifully
+green--such a rest after London smoke. The house is very large, with a
+great square court and corridors running all around it filled with
+family and historical pictures. The Duchess and her daughters were
+waiting for us in the morning room. We had tea and almost immediately
+went upstairs, as it was late. I have a charming big room with such
+views over the Park. There are always in these large houses lovely bits
+of old furniture, pictures, old china, etc. The dinner was
+handsome--quantities of gold and silver plate, and the table covered
+with azaleas. The Duke talked a great deal. He speaks French and German
+like a native (was brought up in Germany) and has the courteous,
+dignified manner of the old-fashioned English gentleman--a little stiff
+perhaps (they say people, even his children, are afraid of him), but I
+find him most attractive, particularly in these days when people haven't
+time apparently to be polite. The house party is small--Lord Tavistock,
+son of the house, with his handsome wife, Lady Ampthill, widow of Lord
+Ampthill (whom you will remember well as Odo Russell in Rome, and who
+was for years British Ambassador in Berlin). We saw him there when we
+stopped three or four days on our way to Moscow for the Coronation. They
+loved him in Berlin, just as they did in Rome. Do you remember how much
+put out all the women were there when his engagement was announced? Lady
+Ampthill looks sad, and is of course most anxious about the Emperor
+Frederick, and eager for news, she knew him and the Empress so well at
+Berlin. There is also Böhm, the sculptor, and one or two young men. The
+evening was short, everyone talking of course about the Emperor. The
+Duke says his death will be an immense loss to the whole world. The
+ladies came upstairs about 10.30--the men went to the smoking-room. This
+morning it is showery--I didn't go down to breakfast, but about 12.30 I
+found my way to the drawing-room, and the Duchess showed me the house
+before lunch. It would take weeks to see all that is in it. The gallery
+that runs round the court is filled with portraits of Russells of every
+degree, also various Kings and Queens of England. There are splendid
+pictures all over the house--one drawing-room absolutely panelled with
+Canalettos. When we had been over the house we went into the garden to
+dedicate a fountain which Böhm had made, and also to see a full length
+statue of the Duchess which he had also just completed for the garden. I
+am very glad to know Böhm. He is intelligent and sympathetic, original
+too. He and W. had a long talk last night in the "fumoir," and it seems
+he was much struck with W. and said afterward to the Duke "Der weiss
+alles."
+
+[10] The Duke of Bedford.
+
+After lunch, just as we were starting to have tea at Ampthill, we
+received two telegrams--one from the Embassy, and one from
+Deichmann--telling of the Emperor's death at 11 this morning--so that
+long struggle is over. We drove over to Ampthill, and walked about in
+the garden with umbrellas and waterproofs, but of course the place
+looked triste and dark as there are great trees close to the house.
+There was a very good picture of Lord Ampthill in one of the
+drawing-rooms, and souvenirs of their diplomatic life in every
+direction; signed photographs of all sorts of distinguished
+people--snuff-boxes, medals, etc.
+
+    June 16th.
+
+It is still grey and damp, but no rain. The Duchess took us for a
+beautiful _grass_ drive through miles of rhododendrons, quite
+enchanting--I have never seen anything like it;--but again the want of
+sunlight made a great difference. The contrast between the deep green of
+the lawn and the extraordinary amount and variety of colour was most
+striking. We left about 3--immediately after lunch. I had quite a talk
+with the Duke while we were waiting for the carriage. He told me he had
+been so pleased to have had W. at his house and to hear him talk. He
+said--"I am not a Republican, but I must say that so long as the
+Republic finds men like him to serve her, there can be nothing better
+for France."
+
+    #London#, June 24th.
+
+We all went to the funeral service for the Emperor Frederick this
+morning, all of us smothered in crêpe with long crêpe veils. It was
+precisely the same service over again as we had had for the old Emperor
+a few months ago. The heat was something awful--so many people--and it
+was very long. I dined in the evening at Hurlingham with Sir Roderick
+Cameron, and that was nice; deliciously cool, lights all about the
+place, and the Hungarian band playing.
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    July 12, 1888.
+
+Last night I had a novel and most amusing experience. I went with Count
+and Countess de Florian (they are always ready to do anything I want) to
+dine at the Mansion House. W. could not go. As soon as we arrived they
+roared out my name, or rather my official title--"Her Excellency the
+French Ambassadress," and I walked alone (the Florians a little behind)
+up the great hall lined with people to where the Lord Mayor was
+standing, with his robes, chains, etc., a mace-bearer on one side, and a
+sort of trumpeter on the other. He stood quite still until I got close
+to him, then shook hands and asked my permission to remove his robes
+(ermine). We then went in to dinner. The Lord Mayor and his wife sat
+side by side, and I was on his right. The dinner was fairly good (a
+regular banquet, 70 or 80 people), with music and speeches. I rather
+like the ceremony of the "loving cup." The cup was a handsome heavy gold
+tankard, with handles and a cover, and was brought first to the Lord
+Mayor. He rose--I did the same, and he asked me to take off the cover,
+which I did, and held it while he drank. Then he wiped the edge with his
+napkin, and passed it to me. The man next to me got up and held the
+cover while I drank. (The cup is very heavy and I had to take it with
+both hands.) The same ceremony was repeated all around the enormous
+table, and it was a pretty and curious sight to see a couple always
+standing--the women in full dress and jewels standing out well between
+the black coats of the men. It seems it is a very old custom, a remnant
+of rough feudal times, when the man drinking was obliged to have a
+friend standing next to him, to ward off a possible blow, his hands
+being occupied. I don't know what we drank--I should think a sort of hot
+spiced wine. Of course one just touches the edge of the cup. A wonderful
+man, in old-fashioned garb and a stentorian voice, stood always behind
+the Lord Mayor's chair, and called out all the names, toasts, etc. We
+went in afterward to Mrs. Oppenheim, who had a musical party--all the
+pretty women, and Mme. Nordica singing beautifully, with the orchestra
+of the Opera.
+
+    #London#,
+    July 14, 1888.
+
+I am rather tired to-night, but I think you must hear about the comédie
+while it is still fresh in my mind. It really went very well. We
+arranged a sort of rampe with flowers and ribbons (Thénard's suggestion)
+at the end of the ball-room, and made up the background with screens,
+curtains, etc. The little troupe had been well drilled by Thénard, who
+took a great deal of trouble, not only with their diction, but with
+their movements. At first they were always standing in a heap and
+tumbling over each other, or insisting upon turning their backs to the
+audience. "Ce n'est pas bien joli, ce que vous montrez au public, mes
+enfants," says Thénard. Here is the programme:--
+
+
+    A FRENCH COMEDY
+
+    AMBASSADE DE FRANCE À LONDRES
+
+    #Samedi#, 14 #Juillet#, 1888
+
+    L'EDUCATION À LA MODE
+
+    PAR BERQUIN
+
+    MADAME VERTEUIL              #Mlle. Béatrice de Bunsen#
+    MADAME BEAUMONT              #Mlle. de Langhe#
+    LÉONORA, sa nièce            #Lady Mary Pepys#
+    DIDIER, son neveu        }
+    M. DUPAS, Maître de danse}   #M. Francis Waddington#
+    TRUETTE, soubrette           #Mlle. Cameron#
+
+I was very proud of my little troupe. Béatrice looked very well and
+stately in powder, black satin, and lace. Mile. de Langhe and Daisy very
+well got up, and the two children charming. Lady Mary Pepys was too
+sweet, and they danced their minuet perfectly. There were roars of
+laughter when Francis appeared as "Maître de Danse" with a white wig and
+his violin. The children were not at all shy, enjoyed themselves
+immensely. B. was a little "émue" at first when she saw how many people
+there were, but it didn't last and she was excellent, so perfectly
+correct, and unfrivolous, and boring. Francis said his little poetry,
+"Le bon Gîte" of Déroulède, quite prettily. W. was rather surprised and
+quite pleased, and Thénard beamed, as she had coached him. She recites
+some of those "Chants du Soldat" of Déroulède's divinely. It is a
+perfect treat to hear her recite in her beautiful rich voice "Le Petit
+Clairon," also "La Fiancée du Timbalier," with an accompaniment of soft
+music.
+
+All the children (as we had invited Francis's young friends to see the
+performance) had tea together afterward, and they wound up with a dance.
+The men of the Embassy were much pleased, particularly Jusserand, who is
+rather "difficile." They complimented B. very much; said she spoke so
+distinctly and with very little accent. It was rather trying for her to
+play before all the Embassy and an ex-member of the Comédie Française.
+Francis's blue velvet coat and lace ruffles were very becoming to him.
+Wolff told him how to hold his violin, I wish you could have seen it. It
+was much prettier than the original little play at Bourneville, when we
+executed as well as we could a menuet.
+
+We had a very select public, among others Wyndham of the Criterion, who
+is an interesting man and a charming actor. When you come over I will
+take you to see his David Garrick, which I consider a perfect bit of
+acting. I wrote and asked him to "assister aux débuts d'un jeune
+collaborateur." The funny formal old-fashioned Berquin phrases amused
+him. He knows French well.
+
+#London#, August.
+
+We have decided to go to Scotland with Sir Roderick Cameron and his
+family, and are starting in a day or two. London is dull and empty, has
+suddenly become a deserted city. Even the shops are empty, and the Park
+a wilderness. All our colleagues have gone. I think W. is the only
+Ambassador in London, and he wants to get off to France and have a few
+days on the Aisne before he goes to the Conseil Général. We means
+Francis and me for Scotland.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Inveraylort#,
+    August 17, 1888.
+
+I will try and give you an account of our journey, Dear. We arrived in
+this most lovely place for late dinner yesterday, and went almost at
+once to bed, having begun our day at 7 o'clock. We left London Tuesday
+morning by the Flying Scotchman, and a tremendous pace we came. There
+were quantities of people at the station, all going apparently by our
+train--children, dogs, guns, fishing rods, provision baskets, tall
+footmen racing after distracted French maids, and piles of luggage. We
+had our saloon carriage reserved (as we were a fair party--C., the four
+girls, Duncan, a friend Miss W., Francis and I and two or three maids).
+We had also a fair amount of baskets, shawls, cushions, etc. It was a
+lovely morning, not too warm, and I think W., who came down to the
+station to see us off, was half sorry he was not going too.
+
+We stopped for luncheon at York, and got to Edinburgh at 6.30. The pace
+was frightful, but we went so smoothly that one hardly realised the
+speed. We went straight to the hotel to see our rooms and order dinner,
+and then went out for a walk. The streets were crowded; omnibuses and
+cabs with luggage in every direction. The old town and castle looked
+most picturesque in the soft summer light. Daisy and I went out again
+after dinner, and after loitering a little near the hotel we saw a
+tramcar, asked where it went, and mounted on the top, telling the man we
+would go as far as we could, and then come back. It was a beautiful
+moonlight night, and we were very cool and comfortable perched on the
+top of the car. When the man came to get the money for the places I
+discovered that I had no change--merely a sovereign. The old gentleman,
+a tall, white-bearded Scotchman, grumbled a good deal, and made various
+uncomplimentary remarks to himself in a low tone. However after some
+little time he appeared with a handful of silver. I took the money
+mechanically and began to stuff it into my portemonnaie, as he looked at
+me severely and said--"First count your money to see that it is right,
+and then give me what you owe for your places."
+
+We were up early the next morning--breakfasted at 9 o'clock as we wanted
+to see a little of Edinburgh before starting for Oban at 12 o'clock. It
+was an enchanting morning, not too warm, and we went first to the
+Castle. There is not much to see inside--always a beautiful view of sea
+and hills. There is a chapel and some old rooms which various Kings and
+Queens of Scotland have inhabited at various times. A company of
+Highlanders in Cameron plaids were being exercised in the courtyard, and
+a fine stalwart set of men they were.
+
+From there we drove through some of the old streets (Cannongate, etc.)
+to Holyrood, which was most interesting. The children of course were
+most anxious to see the spot where Rizzio was murdered, and the
+blood-stains on the floor, but they have disappeared years ago. We were
+delighted with the pictures. There are quantities of course of Mary,
+Queen of Scots--one large portrait with that beautiful, sad Stuart
+face--as if they all foresaw their destinies. I had forgotten how small
+and low the rooms are. In these luxurious days no ordinary lady would be
+satisfied with Queen Mary's bedroom and boudoir; and the servants,
+accustomed to be quite as comfortable as their masters, would give
+warning at once. We drove straight from the Palace to the station, where
+our carriage was waiting for us. All our wraps, cushions, etc., neatly
+arranged; and started for Oban, a most lovely journey, particularly all
+about Loch Awe. We got to Oban about 7, and I shall often think of that
+lovely evening. The harbour filled with yachts and sail-boats of all
+kinds--the water blue and dancing, and the most divine soft pink lights
+on the hills, a little like what we used to love at Capri and
+Ischia--quite beautiful. Daisy and I did some shopping before
+dinner--bought clean collars for the children, who were decidedly the
+worse for the two days' journey, and we also interviewed the well-known
+Ewan at the tartan shop with a view to kilted skirts. D. found their
+tartan at once of course as there are so many Camerons--ours was rather
+more difficult as there are few _Chisholms_ left (my Mother-in-law was
+born Chisholm) and the authorities in London told us we could certainly
+wear the family plaid. The shop people promised to get it for me. The
+man was much interested in the skirt for Miss W. Being an American there
+was no family tartan to be looked up, and she couldn't quite make up her
+mind. However he came to the rescue, telling her that "all the
+_American_ ladies take the Royal Stuart, Miss." We had an excellent
+dinner at the very small hotel where we were obliged to go--all the
+swell hotels were full--and there are quantities of people in the
+streets, and boats coming and going from the yachts. The Englishwomen
+all look so nice in their yachting dresses, almost all of dark blue
+serge and a sailor hat or regular yachting cap. The cap is rather
+trying, but the young and pretty women look charming in it. Some of the
+trippers and their ladies are wonderful to behold. We stood near a
+couple who were just starting for Skye on one of the steamers. The man
+was in a wonderful checked suit, and the lady in a brilliant red and
+green tartan (not unlike the Chisholm), on her head was a Scotch
+stalking cap, which was not becoming to a red, round face. However _she_
+was satisfied and so was her companion, who looked at her most
+admiringly, saying--"I say, you are fetching in that cap." "Il y en a
+pour tous les goûts." When we got back to the hotel we found that Sir R.
+had quite changed our "itinéraire." He had seen the boat, a fine large
+one which made the outside passage to Arishaig, so instead of taking the
+Caledonian Canal and landing at Fort William where carriages and carts
+were ordered for us, he decided that we should go by sea, and take our
+chance of finding some means of transport. He did, however, send a
+telegram to Arishaig, as the hotel man told him he would never find any
+conveyance for such a large party.
+
+We started at 9 o'clock, and the sail was enchanting. About 12 we ran
+rather close to a small headland, and the Captain told us we had
+arrived. Apparently we were in broad Atlantic with a rocky shore in the
+distance--however a boat appeared, one of those broad, flat boats which
+one sees all over in Scotland. Our disembarkation was difficult as we
+were 11 people with quantities of trunks and parcels. Happily the sea
+was quite smooth. All the passengers were wildly interested in the
+operation and crowded to the side of the steamer. When all the party had
+finally got off with trunks, bags, a bird in a cage, and a kitten in a
+basket, one of the passengers remarked--"They only need a pony in that
+boat, to make the party complete."
+
+To say we found a landing-place would be absolute fiction. As we neared
+the shore we saw a quantity of black, slippery rocks, and on these we
+landed, the boatmen holding the boat as near as they could, and we
+climbing, and slipping, and struggling to get on shore. Our baggage was
+dumped on the rocks and there we were--not a habitation or a creature in
+sight. At last we found a sort of house behind a mass of rocks, and saw
+several carriages in the distance which we supposed were for us. Not at
+all! Sir R.'s telegram had not been received and those were carriages
+waiting for a "Corps" which was being conveyed across on a yacht. We
+tried to persuade them to take some of us at any rate, and at last with
+great difficulty one carriage was given to us. The negotiations were
+extremely difficult, as nobody spoke anything but Gaelic, except an old
+woman, and she was so cross and apparently so suspicious of the whole
+party that we got on better by signs and a few extra shillings. Sir R.
+and the maids walked (4 miles through lovely country) and we all finally
+arrived at the little fishing village of Arishaig, where there is a good
+inn. It is a little place, three or four fishermen's cottages, a
+post-office, and two churches, a large Roman Catholic Cathedral and a
+small Established Church. We had a good lunch and started at 3.30,
+getting here at 5.30. Such a beautiful drive--all blue sky, and heather
+almost as blue--and great grey mountains. We walked up two very steep
+hills, but had such glorious views at the top that we didn't mind the
+climb.
+
+This place is charming--the house fairly large. It stands low on the
+lake or arm of the sea, and has pine woods and high mountains behind. It
+is absolutely lonely--no houses near, except one or two (agent's and
+farmer's) that belong to the estate. The country is lovely, wild and
+picturesque, but it would be a terrible place to be in except with a
+large party. There is nothing nearer than 10 miles, and no real village
+or settlement for 25. We are about half way between Fort William and
+Arishaig (each 20 or 25 miles away). I think all our provisions come
+from Fort William. A stage passes twice a day, morning and evening. Our
+baggage arrived at 10.30, and we were all glad to go to bed, as we had
+begun our day early. It is so still to-night--I am writing in my
+room--the lake looks beautiful in the moonlight, and there is not a
+sound.
+
+    #Inveraylort#,
+    Sunday, August 19th.
+
+We have settled down most comfortably in the house, which is fairly
+large, but we are never indoors except to eat and sleep. We had a lovely
+drive yesterday all through this property, and to a neighbour's where
+there is a pillar to show where Prince Charlie landed. There are many
+Roman Catholics in these parts, which accounts for the large church in
+the little fishing village of Arishaig.
+
+This morning we had a service in the "Wash-house"--a red-headed Scotch
+peasant was the "Minister." It was a curious sort of independent
+service, impromptu prayers, and a long sermon. The congregation
+consisted of ourselves and the household. Miss Cameron, the owner of
+this place, who is staying at her agent's cottage on the place, some
+friends of hers, and the people of the little inn where the daily coach
+from Fort William stops for rest and luncheon. There are no other
+habitations of any kind except a few crofters' cottages across the lake.
+After luncheon we went for a long walk along the stream where there are
+plenty of fish, and came home over the hills. They are blue and deep
+purple, with heather, and there are divine views in every direction.
+
+    Thursday, August 22d.
+
+It is again a beautiful day. We intended to row down to see some friends
+of Sir R.'s about 5 or 6 miles off at the mouth of the lake, where it
+runs into the sea, but there is some trouble about the boats. Our
+"propriétaire," Miss C., seems to have singular ideas as to the
+respective rights of owners and tenants. It was so fine and cool that we
+decided to walk, and the B.'s promised to send us back in their boat. It
+was long, but the path was not too steep all along the lake, and we
+arrived not too exhausted. They gave us tea, showed us the house and
+garden, and we started back about 9. The row home was enchanting, but
+weird--not a thing to be seen of any kind, except seals, which came up
+close to the boat. I had never seen one near, and thought at first they
+were dogs and was so surprised to see so many swimming about; not a
+sound except the splash of our oars in the water when we turned our
+backs to the sea, the heather-covered mountains shutting us in on all
+sides. It was quite wild and beautiful, but a solitude that would be
+appalling if one lived altogether in the country.
+
+    #Inveraylort#, August 27th.
+
+After all they are not going to stay the month, Sir R. and his
+proprietor can't come to terms, and I think they will probably take a
+yacht and cruise about a little. The lake is decidedly rough this
+morning, but still we thought we must row across to some crofters'
+cottages. They told us they were of the poorest description, and we
+wanted to see what their life and houses were. Most wretched little
+houses (our horses much better off in their stables), generally one
+room, sometimes two; no floor, merely the earth trodden hard, and
+covered with straw. To-day it had been raining; there were puddles in
+the corners and the straw was decidedly damp. A peat fire was burning,
+and the only opening (no window) was a hole in the thatched roof, which
+lets the smoke out and the rain in. An old woman was spinning and an old
+man was sitting in the corner mending a fishing net. They were tall,
+gaunt figures--might be any age. They spoke nothing but Gaelic, but soon
+a young woman appeared on the scene who knew English. She looked as old
+as her mother, but had a keen, sharp face. I was rather interested in
+the spinning-wheel, so the two women suggested that I should try; but I
+could do nothing. Either I went too fast and broke the yarn, or else the
+wheel remained absolutely motionless. I bought some yarn, as I had
+broken various bits, and then we started home, carrying away an
+impression of wretched poverty and hard lives of toil, with little to
+lighten the burden.
+
+    #Oban#, August 29th.
+
+We are back here after a most eventful journey from Inveraylort. We
+started in the rain, the mist closing round us and blotting out the
+whole landscape. We had two carriages, but the pony cart came to grief,
+and the two girls and Francis were thrown out. Miss W. had an ugly cut
+on her face, but poor N. was lying on the ground, pale and suffering,
+convinced that her arm was broken. When we got up to them we took her
+into the waggonette and got on as quickly as we could to Caupar, our
+destination, where we had been told of a wonderful bone-setter who was
+well known in all these parts. He saw at once what was wrong--her
+shoulder was dislocated, and said she must not continue the journey, so
+we left her there with her sister and brother, and we came on here. They
+all appeared this afternoon--N. with her arm in a sling and looking
+fairly well. She said the man set it so quickly and gently she hardly
+had time to feel any pain.
+
+    #Oban#,
+    September 3d.
+
+We had a beautiful day yesterday for our excursion to Staffa and Iona.
+The sea was perfectly calm, and the lights and shades on the mountains
+enchanting. It was a lovely sail; sometimes we ran into little shaded
+harbours with two or three cottages and a hotel perched high up on the
+top of a mountain, and sometimes passed so close to land under the great
+cliffs that one could throw a stone on the shore. The islands are most
+interesting, with their old churches and their curious stone crosses,
+and there were not too many people on the boat. The return was delicious
+as we sat on deck, watching all the colours fade away from sea and
+hills.
+
+We leave to-morrow for London and Paris, and I am very sorry to go. We
+have enjoyed our three weeks immensely. The country is so beautiful, and
+then it was a great pleasure to be with some of my own people; we have
+been away so long that the family ties get weaker. Francis was quite
+happy with some cousins to run about with.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    May 21, 1889.
+
+I got back from Paris last night, rather sorry to come. The weather was
+enchanting, warm and bright, and, of course, quantities of people for
+the Exhibition. It isn't half ready yet, but is most interesting--so
+much to see. I dined and breakfasted there several times at the various
+restaurants--one evening with the Walter Burns and a party, and we went
+afterward to see the "fontaines lumineuses," which are really
+fairy-like; but such a crowd. I also heard the two American prima
+donnas--Miss Eames, who is very handsome, has a fresh, young voice, and
+is an ideal Juliette. She is a vision really in her bridal dress as
+Juliette. Miss Sanderson is also very handsome, but in quite a different
+style. Her voice is very high and true; she was singing "Esclarmonde" at
+the Opéra Comique. Massenet has taught her everything. I have found
+quantities of invitations here, in fact was obliged to come over, as we
+have a big dinner the day after to-morrow, and the Court ball.
+
+    Tuesday, May 28, 1889.
+
+We had our first encounter with Boulanger this morning. W. and I were
+walking our horses down the Row when we met three gentlemen cantering
+toward us. As they passed we heard they were speaking French, but didn't
+pay any particular attention. I merely said, "I wonder who those men
+are," one so rarely hears French spoken in the Row. A few minutes later
+we met Lord Charles Beresford, who took a little turn with us, and said
+to W., "The other distinguished Frenchman is also in the Row,"--then we
+divined. A few moments afterward (the Row is so small one crosses people
+all the time) we met them again, Boulanger in the middle riding his
+famous black horse--a man on each side riding good horses, chestnuts.
+They all wore top-hats, which no Englishmen do now in the morning. The
+men all wear low hats, the women also, and covert coats, the girls
+cotton blouses; not at all the correct style we used to admire as
+children in _Punch_ when those beautiful women of Leech's riding in the
+Park filled our childish hearts with envy. I was rather curious as to
+what would happen, as W. knows Boulanger slightly, and went to him when
+he was Minister of War about something concerning the military attaché;
+however, there was no difficulty, as Boulanger was apparently too
+engrossed in conversation with his companions to notice anyone. I wonder
+if we shall meet him anywhere? They tell us that some of the society
+people mean to invite him, but I suppose they will scarcely ask us
+together.
+
+    Thursday, May 30th.
+
+Yesterday was the last Drawing-room of this season. I rather feel as if
+it were my last in London, but one never knows. We (Corps Diplomatique)
+were still all in black, the English in colours. It was long and tiring.
+We dined at Lord Sudeley's--I rather wishing I had no engagement. I am
+always tired after those hours of standing, and the diadem is heavy, and
+the train, too, held over one's arm; however, I was quite repaid, as I
+had a charming neighbour. I didn't know at all who he was, as they
+rarely introduce in England, so we embarked on one of those banal, inane
+conversations one has with a stranger of whom one knows nothing, and
+were talking on smoothly about nothing at all, when he remarked,
+casually, "I suppose you never go to church." This I at once resented
+vehemently, so he explained that he didn't know, as I was a Frenchwoman,
+probably a Catholic (as if they didn't go to church), etc. He turned out
+to be Canon Rogers, a charming, intelligent, well-known man, most
+independent in his words and actions. He is rector of St. Botolph's, a
+church in Bishopsgate, the most disreputable part of London. We became
+great friends, and he asked me if I would go and lunch with him one
+Sunday, and he would show me Petticoat Lane. I agreed of course, and we
+decided for next Sunday. He said he had never had a French lady and an
+Ambassadress as a guest, and didn't quite know what to do. Should he ask
+the Prince of Wales and order champagne? I told him my tastes were very
+simple, and if I might bring my cousin Hilda, and one of the
+Secretaries, I should be quite happy--also I liked apple-pie, which he
+says his cook makes very well. I haven't had such a pleasant dinner for
+a long time.
+
+    Monday, June 3d.
+
+We made our expedition to Bishopsgate yesterday, and most interesting it
+was. I went with Hilda and M. Lecomte, one of the secretaries, who knows
+English, and is very keen to see anything a little out of the way. We
+had a long drive to the church through the city, and arrived only to
+hear the end of Canon Rogers' sermon, which was strong and practical. As
+soon as the service was over we went down to the door and found him and
+his curate waiting for us. The first thing he did was to send away my
+carriage, which had already attracted much attention with the tall
+footman, velvet breeches, cockades, etc. He said he would never venture
+into Petticoat Lane in such an equipage, and would we please share his
+modest conveyance; so Hilda and I got into his victoria, and Lecomte and
+the curate walked close to the carriage behind. We had two policemen in
+front, two behind, and a detective. I rather demurred to such a display
+of municipal strength on my account, but he said it was necessary, he
+much preferred having them, he was afraid people would crowd around us
+and insist upon my buying something. The street was narrow, crowded with
+people, as there was also a fair going on and everything imaginable
+being sold (it is the one place in London where you can buy _one_ shoe
+or _one_ stocking!). The people were almost all Jews, and I must say
+they were a bad-looking lot, frightfully rough specimens. Some of the
+women, girls too, with such sullen, scowling faces. We went at a foot's
+pace (the only carriage), and hadn't the slightest difficulty in making
+our way. Everyone knew Mr. Rogers and spoke to him--"Good morning,
+Governor," "God bless you, Sir." Two or three children ran up to him,
+one a pretty little dark-eyed girl breathless to tell him she was in
+church, though she came late. He was so nice to them all, called them
+all by name, patted the children on the head, and exhorted some of the
+women to keep their husbands out of the drinking shops, and to wash
+their children's faces. They say he does an immense amount of good down
+there, but it must be uphill work. I have rarely seen such a forbidding
+looking set of people. Some of the women came up rather close to the low
+victoria and made comments on our garments. (We had dressed very simply
+at his request. I wore my blue foulard and a blue straw bonnet with iris
+on it. Hilda was in light grey with a black hat.) "You have got a
+beautiful bonnet, my lady. Oh, look at her umbrell!" The "umbrell"
+excited much attention. I couldn't think why at first, as it was also
+rather dark and plain; when I remembered that it had a watch in the
+handle upon which, of course, all eyes were fixed. I think the detective
+kept his eye upon it too, as he came up rather close on my side. The
+detective took Lecomte to a famous jeweller's shop near in Whitechapel,
+where there had been a murder some days ago. We drove all through the
+fair surrounded by these villainous faces (here and there a pretty,
+fair, innocent, childish face) and I wasn't sorry to get back to
+civilisation and the rectory, though I am very glad to have seen it. The
+rectory is a large old-fashioned house in Devonshire Square, shut in
+with high houses and high trees, and never, I should think, could a ray
+of sunshine get anywhere near it. One felt miles away from London and
+life of any kind. It was a curious contrast to the turbulent, noisy,
+seething crowd we had just left. We had a charming breakfast, Mr. Rogers
+talking all the time delightfully, so original and so earnest, convinced
+that everyone in their small circle could do so much to help, not only
+the poor but the really bad, if only by example and a little sympathy;
+he says no one ever helps the bad ones, only the deserving poor get
+looked after.
+
+About 3.30 we started again to see the People's Palace, which he takes
+great interest in, and hopes he may succeed in keeping the men away from
+the drinking shops in the evening. It looked comfortable and practical,
+the reading-room particularly, which is large and airy, with all sorts
+of morning and evening papers (some foreign ones), illustrated papers,
+and good, standard books. The librarian told me that Walter Scott was
+always asked for, also some American books, particularly Indian stories,
+and travels of all kinds. I was rather interested in hearing that, as
+whenever W. gives books to a school library, or prizes in France, Walter
+Scott or Fenimore Cooper are still the favourites (translated, of
+course. I read the "Last of the Mohicans" in French, and it was very
+well done). There were not many people, but Mr. Rogers says on a fine,
+warm Sunday they all prefer to be in the open air. There is also a large
+swimming bath, given by Lord Rosebery. We parted from our host at the
+door, having had a delightful afternoon. It is a long time since I have
+heard anyone talk who interested me so much.
+
+The drive home along the Embankment was nice--quantities of people out,
+quite like a Sunday in France. We dined quietly at home. W. was much
+interested in my day. I think if he had known exactly where I was going,
+and that an escort of police was necessary, he wouldn't have agreed to
+the expedition.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    Thursday, June 4, 1889.
+
+The Court Ball was brilliant last night. The Prince opened the ball with
+Princess Louise, and the Princess with Lord Fife. The engagement of
+Princess Louise of Wales to Lord Fife is just announced, and has of
+course created quite a sensation. Of course there are two currents of
+opinion--the old-fashioned people are rather shocked at the idea of a
+Royal Princess marrying a subject; but I fancy the entourage of the
+Prince and Princess of Wales are pleased,--and Fife is a general
+favourite. It is not very easy for the English princesses to marry. They
+_must_ marry Protestants, and there are not many Protestant princes who
+are not near relations.
+
+I talked a little to the Shah, but I didn't find that very amusing. He
+knows very little English or French, and has a most disagreeable way of
+looking hard at one. He planted himself directly in front of me, very
+close, and said "he thought he had seen me before," which of course he
+had, in Paris.
+
+It seems that one of the Princesses pointed out to him, in the
+supper-room, a lady neither very young nor very beautiful, who was
+covered with splendid jewels, thinking they might interest him. He
+stopped short in front of her--then turned his back at once, saying
+"monstre." They say he finds no woman handsome who has passed twenty.
+
+    Tuesday, July 2d.
+
+It was a splendid summer day yesterday, ideal, for the Shah's arrival by
+water. We drove down to the Speaker's to see him come. The streets were
+lined with troops, and there were quantities of people about. They let
+us drive through the Mall and to Westminster between the lines of
+soldiers (all the traffic was stopped). Almost all the houses and
+balconies on the way were draped with red, and crowded with women in
+their light, gay summer dresses. There were a good many people at the
+Speaker's, who gave us some tea and strawberries. The Royal Barge
+arrived very punctually. It was not very beautiful--an ordinary river
+steamer, painted light grey, with gold lines, and fitted up with palms,
+red cushions, and carpets, etc. The Thames was a pretty sight, such
+quantities of boats of all kinds. We saw everything quite well. There
+was a fair procession of state carriages, and an escort of Life Guards;
+but what a barbarian the Shah looks, with his embroidered coat and his
+big jewels, and his coarse, bad face--however he was smiling, and seemed
+pleased with his reception.
+
+We waited to let the crowd disperse a little, and then came home the
+same way through Constitution Hill. We met the Prince and Princess
+coming back from Buckingham Palace. Both looked very well--he in
+uniform, and she in white, extraordinarily young in face and figure. The
+two princes, Eddy and George, were with them, and they were much
+applauded as they passed. In the evening we had a musical party at
+Blumenthal's. The garden was lighted and everyone sitting outside. The
+party was in honour of Princess Louise, and the music very good, as it
+always is there. Mdme. Grondal, a Swedish woman, played beautifully, and
+Plunkett Greene sang very well. He always brings down the house with
+"I'm Off to Philadelphy in the Morning." Lord Lorne took me to supper. I
+always like to talk to him. He was not much impressed with his Persian
+Majesty either--thought the days of Eastern potentates were over. I
+asked him what he had come for, and why the English were so civil to
+him; to which he replied, "Oh, I suppose some of the swells want
+concessions, or railways."
+
+    Monday, July 8, 1889.
+
+We went to Hatfield this morning, where there was a luncheon party for
+the Shah. It was decidedly grey and uncertain, in fact, raining a little
+when we started, and I looked once or twice at my crème linon trimmed
+with Valenciennes--but as I had ordered it especially for that occasion,
+I decided to wear it. I put on a long cloak for the train. The Hatfield
+parties are always very well arranged--trains starting every ten
+minutes. It is hardly three-quarters of an hour from London. There were
+lots of people, and the short trajet passed quickly enough. All the
+women were looking at each other to see the dresses, as the weather was
+really bad. At Hatfield, one of Lord Salisbury's sons was at the station
+to receive the swells. I got separated in the crowd from W., so Lord
+Edward put me into a brougham, and asked me if I would take another
+Ambassador, as mine was missing for the moment. I agreed, of course, so
+Comte Hatzfeldt came with me. There was a large party staying in the
+house, including the Prince and Princess, the Shah, and various members
+of the family and Court. Lady Salisbury was standing at one of the big
+doors opening on the terrace. Lord Salisbury, she told me, was taking
+the Shah for a drive in the park. We all loitered about a little on the
+terrace. The rain had stopped and, though there was no sun, the house
+looked beautiful with its grey walls and splendid lines. The first
+person I saw was the Duc d'Aumale, and we had quite a talk while waiting
+for luncheon. The Prince also came out and talked. Luncheon was served
+at small, round tables in the great dining-room. As Doyens we were at
+the Royal table. The Prince took me, and I had next to me the Grand
+Vizier, who had taken in Lady Londonderry. She is very handsome, very
+well dressed, and the Grand Vizier enjoyed himself very much. It seems
+he is a very difficult gentleman, and at some man's house party,
+Ferdinand Rothschild's, I think, he was not pleased with his reception,
+or his place at the table, and declined to come downstairs. There were
+about 70 people at luncheon, and as many more, they told me, upstairs.
+Quantities of flowers, silver, servants, etc., and a band playing. After
+breakfast we all adjourned to the terrace and some photographic groups
+were taken. There was some wonderful shooting by some Americans which
+interested the Persians very much, and one of the Shah's suite was most
+anxious to try his hand at it, and forcibly took a rifle from the
+American, who protested vigorously, but the Persian kept hold of his gun
+and evidently meant to shoot, so the American appealed directly to the
+Prince, saying there would be an accident if he was allowed to go on;
+and the Prince interfered and persuaded the irate Oriental to give up
+his weapon.
+
+They had asked a great many people to tea, but evidently the rain had
+kept many away. The toilettes were most varied--every description of
+costume, from the Duchess of Rutland in white satin and diamonds (large
+stones sewed all over the body of her dress) to the simplest description
+of blue serge, covert coat, and even a waterproof carried over one's
+arm. I was thinking of going to get a cup of tea, when I crossed again
+the Duc d'Aumale, who was also looking for the tea-table, so we went off
+together and had a pleasant "quart d'heure." He is always so nice to W.
+and me, and is so distinguished-looking wherever he is--such
+extraordinary charm of manner and so soldierly. He had been much amused
+by the stories he had heard of the eccentricities of the Persian suite.
+One of the ladies staying in the house found two gentlemen sitting on
+her bed when she went up to dress for dinner. I must say I think it was
+awfully good of Lady Salisbury to ask them all to stay.
+
+[Illustration: Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the Shah of
+Persia, July, 8, 1889 From a photograph by Russell & Sons London
+
+The following are among those in the picture Prince of Wales Lord
+Salisbury Shah of Persia Princess of Wales Rustem Turkish Ambassador
+Hatzfeldt German Ambassador Lord Halsbury the Lord Chancellor M de
+Staal Russian Ambassador Duc d'Aumale Countess of Cadogan M
+Waddington French Ambassador Madame Waddington Countess of Galloway
+Duchess of Devonshire]
+
+
+    Saturday, July 27th.
+
+Princess Louise of Wales and Fife were married this morning in the small
+chapel at Buckingham Palace. Very few people were asked, no diplomats
+except Falbe, Danish Minister, who is a great favourite at Court, and
+asked always. The streets, especially Piccadilly, were crowded with
+people. We had to go round by Belgrave Square and Buckingham Palace to
+get to Marlborough House. We were invited at 2 o'clock to see the bride
+and the presents. The wedding party drove up just as we arrived. Fife's
+coach, dark green with green and gold liveries, was very handsome. The
+Princess of Wales looked radiant, and the bride charming--beautifully
+dressed and just pale enough to be interesting. The King of Greece and
+Crown Prince of Denmark were both there. The presents were
+beautiful--every imaginable thing in diamonds and silver. The Prince and
+Princess's tiara very handsome--also Fife's. There was a buffet and tea
+in the garden, also in the drawing-rooms; and we waited to see the young
+couple start. They looked very happy and smiling. Their carriage was
+very handsome, with four black horses and an outrider. Everyone cheered
+and threw rice after them. They started with a Royal escort, but at the
+top of the park Fife sent it back, and they made their entry into Sheen
+in his carriage only. They said he made a condition that there should be
+no lady-in-waiting, that his wife should be Duchess of Fife only; but of
+course she can never lose her rank. None but Ambassadors were asked to
+the reception at Marlborough House--no other diplomats.
+
+    July 30th.
+
+We had our last dinner this season--musical and all Italians, Tosti,
+Vinci, and Picolellis. Mme. de Florian came in late with her dinner
+guests, among others the Duchesse de Richelieu, who is very fond of
+music. Tosti is delightful once he gets to the piano, sings (with no
+voice) and plays whatever one wants--his own music, anybody's, and
+always so simply. It was very warm. We all sat and stood on the balcony
+when we were not playing and singing.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Hatfield#, January 8, 1891.
+
+We came down last night for dinner. It was very cold, snow and ice in
+London, and skating everywhere. We are not a very large party--the
+family, some of Lord Salisbury's secretaries, Casa Laiglesia (just made
+Ambassador--very happy. Spain had only a _Minister_ here till now), the
+Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, etc. After dinner the older members of
+the party played whist, and the young ones danced in the great hall.
+This time we have King James I.'s rooms, an enormous bed (with a Royal
+crown on the top) where he really slept. We have been out all day; the
+gentlemen went off early to shoot, and I got down about 12. I found some
+of the young women, Ladies Cranborne and Northcote, in the hall and we
+decided we would go and skate. It was bitterly cold, but no wind, and
+the pond is not far, just at the end of the terrace. There was a little
+wooden house on the edge where we put on our skates, and plenty of
+chairs and canes. Ladies Northcote and Gwendoline Cecil skate very well.
+Lady Salisbury came down to the pond, took a broom from one of the
+numerous sweepers, and swept hard to keep herself warm. After lunch I
+went for a sleigh ride with Lady Salisbury in a pretty little one-horse
+sleigh she had bought at the Exhibition. It was very good going in the
+park, but we bumped occasionally going across the fields. To-night we
+broke up rather early; we were all tired with the first day's skating,
+and the men with their shooting.
+
+[Illustration: Lord Salisbury
+From a photograph by Weston & Son Dover]
+
+    Friday.
+
+It has been again a beautiful winter's day, and we have skated all the
+afternoon until dark. Lady Salisbury came again with her broom and swept
+vigorously. It seems many doctors recommend sweeping now for women who
+need exercise and cannot ride or walk. We tried hard to make Casa
+Laiglesia come down to the pond, but he refused absolutely--that was not
+at all his idea of pleasure. We spent some time in the library looking
+over some of the old manuscripts of the time of Queen Elizabeth and King
+Philip of Spain, and we saw him taking a short, very short turn on the
+terrace in the sun, wrapped up so as to be almost "méconnaissable."
+
+    #London#, January 18th.
+
+It is still very cold--the Serpentine is quite frozen, and quantities of
+people skating. The ice is very bad, rather like a ploughed field, but
+it is amusing to see all the people. We have been this afternoon to
+Wimbledon, and there it was delightful. There was quite a large part
+reserved and beautifully smooth, belonging to a club; so Comte de St.
+Genys (one of the secretaries), who was with us, sent in his card,
+saying he was there with the French Ambassadress; and they were most
+civil, brought us chairs, and begged us to come back whenever we liked.
+We saw some beautiful fancy skating, both men and women. We skated
+afterward a little on the big lake to see the people. It was a beautiful
+day, and a very pretty sight, quite like a Dutch picture.
+
+I was interrupted by a visit from Mr. Bryce. He came really to ask about
+you and to know if you would stay on at Alassio. He spoke so warmly and
+admiringly of Schuyler that it was a pleasure to hear him. He said he
+was certainly the cleverest, most cultivated American he had ever seen,
+that he had never met anyone who knew so many things well. He couldn't
+conceive how any Government that had such a man to place could have let
+any party feeling prevent them from giving him a prominent place, in
+their own interest.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Thursday, February 19th.
+
+We have had a funny day. There was a sale of horses, hunters
+principally, at Cricklewood, a place just outside of London, where they
+have very good horses. We have been there several times with Deichmann,
+who has always fine horses, and have bought two or three ourselves. I am
+looking for a saddle horse, so W. and I drove out the other day, and I
+tried two which I liked very much (there is a riding-school where one
+can try). Then Newman, the head man, rode them over some hurdles to show
+me how well they jumped. They promised to let us know when the sale
+would be, and yesterday sent word we must come to-day. I drove out with
+Hilda in her pony carriage. We drew up close to the ring and the
+auctioneer's stand and saw everything well. Her horses were taken out
+and we made ourselves as comfortable as we could with furs and
+couvertures. It was bitterly cold, with a high wind that cut one in two.
+W. and Deichmann wandered about in the crowd. The collection of people
+was most amazing, horsey to a degree; horse dealers, trainers, jockeys,
+racing men and women--a few gentlemen here and there, not many. There
+was a champagne lunch going on at Newman's, but that we declined--so
+they brought us tea and excellent bread and butter to the carriage. The
+two horses I had tried were among the first and I hoped I should get one
+of them, but they brought much more than the dealers supposed they
+would. They looked extremely well when they were brought out first,
+galloped over the grass, and then jumping their hurdles beautifully,
+taking them easily in a long stride (of course they were beautifully
+handled, every point made the most of). W. made various bids, but when
+it got beyond a certain sum he wouldn't give any more, as it was a fancy
+price and could have gone up indefinitely. I was rather disappointed, as
+I had set my heart on the black horse. It was cold driving home in the
+teeth of the wind. We dined with the Deichmanns, with some of our
+colleagues, and everyone was discussing the Empress Frederick's visit to
+Versailles. Until then everything had gone most swimmingly, but of
+course all French people were "froissés" at that. I don't exactly
+understand her going. She is so intelligent, and had apparently realised
+quite well how difficult it would be for her ever to go to Paris. Years
+ago in Rome, where we met her almost every night, she told us she was so
+anxious to go to Paris, but she was afraid she could not manage it. She
+wanted very much to meet Renan--admired his books so much, and his great
+intelligence; and I think she would have been delighted with him. He was
+a charming talker on every subject, and so easy.
+
+
+    _To G.K.S._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Tuesday, March 10, 1891.
+
+We had an awful storm yesterday, a regular blizzard, and a terrible
+night in the Channel. One of the good boats, the Victoria, was out all
+night, not daring to land at either Dover or Calais. One of our young
+attachés was on board, bringing over despatches, and they say he looked
+green when he finally did arrive. The trains were snowed up everywhere,
+even between Folkestone and London, and the passengers nearly frozen and
+starved. It seems incredible in such a short distance. The young men are
+generally rather eager to bring over despatches, but I rather think this
+one won't try it again, in winter at any rate. I am extraordinarily
+lucky in my crossings, because probably I am a good sailor. I go
+backward and forward in all seasons and always have good weather. The
+Florians have had some wonderful crossings, nine hours between Calais
+and Dover, both of them _tied_ in their chairs, and the chairs tied to
+the mast.
+
+    Thursday, March 12, 1891.
+
+Yesterday we were at Windsor to dine and sleep. The party was
+small--Staal, the Russian Ambassador, Lord Hartington, Sir Frederick
+Leighton, Lord and Lady Curzon, Countess Perponcher and Count
+Seckendorff in attendance on the Empress Frederick, and of course the
+regular members of the Queen's Household. Lady Antrim was in waiting. We
+assembled as usual in the long corridor close to the door by which the
+Royal party entered. We were all in black, as the Empress was there. The
+Queen and the Empress came in together. The Queen shook hands with me
+and the two Ambassadors--the Empress with me only, bowing to the others.
+She is still in deep mourning--her dress black (woollen stuff of some
+kind) covered with crêpe, and a crêpe veil arranged in a point, or sort
+of Mary Stuart cap, on the top of her head, and falling behind to the
+edge of her skirt. The corsage was a little open, and she had a splendid
+necklace of pearls, also a miniature of the Emperor Frederick set in
+diamonds fastened on the front of her bodice. The dress was very
+becoming--she looked very stately and graceful as she walked through the
+corridor. She gave her arm to the Queen, and they walked in first to the
+dining-room, the Empress sitting next to the Queen on her right. W.
+followed with Princess Beatrice, sitting on the Queen's left; Staal with
+Princess Margaretta, and sat on the right of the Empress. Lord
+Hartington took me. The Queen talked a great deal to W.--the Empress
+joined in occasionally. They were both much interested in the
+Protestants in France, and wanted to know if the feeling was as strong
+as in the old days of Huguenots and Catholics. I think there is a very
+strong feeling, and it is rare when a French Protestant marries a
+Catholic--rarer still when they become Catholics.
+
+The dinner is always quickly served, and the conversation nil. Nobody
+talks except those who are next the Princesses. The cercle was, as
+usual, in the corridor between the two doors. The Queen stood a little,
+but not all the time. She spoke to me about Johannes Wolff--admired his
+playing so much. The Empress talked a long time to W., and spoke
+immediately about her visit to Paris and Versailles, which was rather
+awkward for him, as he regretted very much that she had gone. All the
+first part of her stay went so well. She told W. she had had nothing but
+respect, and even sympathy wherever she had been, and that she was much
+astonished and distressed when she saw the papers and found what a storm
+was raging in the press. The Queen said a few words to me about the
+visit, and seemed to think it was a radical demonstration against the
+Government. I answered vaguely that all radicals made mischief--it
+wasn't a very easy subject to discuss. The cercle was not very
+long--about three-quarters of an hour--and then the Court retired, the
+two Sovereigns going out as they came in, together. We finished the
+evening in the drawing-room, but broke up early. W. went off to smoke,
+and I had a nice hour in the beautiful little yellow salon. I had a
+splendid fire, quantities of candles (always my mania--I hate lamps,
+particularly in these days of petroleum), and was quite happy. Adelaïde
+was very eloquent over the style of the housekeeper's room, and was
+funny over Charles, our French footman, and his indignation at being
+excluded from the society of the valets and ladies' maids. W.'s man was
+ill, so he took the French footman, who has often done his service. That
+gentleman being in livery was considered one of the lower servants (sat
+some way below the salt) and when the swells (Adelaïde, of course,
+included) retired to the housekeeper's room for dessert and coffee he
+remained with the under servants. All these domestic arrangements are
+quite unheard of in France--any distinctions of that kind would set the
+whole establishment in a storm.
+
+It was a cold night, snow lying thick on the ground, clouds dark and
+low, and the great towers looked grim and formidable. W. came in about
+12--said the talk in the fumoir was pleasant. He likes Count Seckendorff
+very much, finds him intelligent and moderate and sensible in his
+opinions--like all men who have knocked about a great deal and who know,
+not only other countries but the _people_ of the country. After all,
+churches, and palaces, and picture galleries have a certain
+"resemblance," but people are different, and sometimes very interesting.
+We came away this morning at 10.30. I did not see anyone except Lady
+Antrim, as I never go to the dining-room for breakfast. I was ready a
+little before the time, and wandered about the corridor a little,
+looking at all the pictures. I met Staal doing the same thing. There is
+so much to see.
+
+It is a beautiful bright day, and Hyde Park looked very animated as we
+drove through. Everyone was waiting to see the Queen pass. She arrived
+about an hour after us, as there is a Drawing-room to-morrow. We had
+some music this afternoon--2 pianos, 8 hands--and we play rather well a
+splendid symphony of Brahms'--not at all easy. We dined with Mr. Henry
+Petre, one of the most soigné dinners in London. It is always pleasant
+at his house--they say it is because he is a bachelor, which is not very
+flattering to _us_, but I think it is true, I don't know why. As we were
+out we _went on_, as they say here, to Lady Aberdeen, who had a small
+dance, but did not stay very long, as it was rather a young company.
+People always say there is nothing going on in London before the season,
+but we dine out every night and often have (I at least) something in the
+afternoon--a tea, or music. I don't believe anybody ever dines at home
+in London. The theatres are always crowded, quite as much as in Paris.
+Hilda and I went the other night with Count Seckendorff to see
+"Charlie's Aunt," a ridiculous farce which is having a great success. He
+protested at first at our choice--would have preferred something more
+classic, but he was perfectly amused (though protesting all the time).
+The piece is absolutely stupid, but so well played that the house was in
+roars of laughter, and that is always infectious. The man who played the
+part of the maiden aunt was extraordinarily well got up. His black silk
+dress and mittens were lovely--he looked really a prim old spinster and
+managed his skirts so well.
+
+    Saturday, April 4, 1891.
+
+We lunched to-day with Ferdinand Rothschild to meet the Empress
+Frederick. We were a small party, principally Diplomatists. The Deyms,
+Hatzfeldt, Soveral, Harry Whites, etc. The Empress came (punctually)
+with Countess Perponcher and Seckendorff. The lunch was very handsome,
+quickly served and very animated, everybody talked. I had Hatzfeldt on
+the other side (I sat between him and Rothschild) so I was quite
+happy--there is nobody I like so much to talk to. He is very clever,
+very entrain, speaks French beautifully and talks about anything--just
+enough "moqueur" to keep one's wits sharpened. We had a discussion as to
+what was the origin of "Mrs. Grundy." None of us knew. I must ask
+Jusserand, who will I am sure be able to tell us.
+
+We were all dressed in black velvet, one would have thought it was a
+"mot d'ordre." The Empress is very easy and likes to talk. She asked me
+if I knew Déroulède, said she heard some of his poetry was charming. I
+told her the "Chants du Soldat" were delightful, but _I_ couldn't send
+them to her (they are all about the Franco-German War). One of the
+ladies, Mrs. White I think, said she would.
+
+    Tuesday, April 21, 1891.
+
+We had a pleasant little dinner Sunday night for Wormser, the composer
+of "L'Enfant Prodigue," which has had an enormous success here. Wolff
+came too, and they played all the evening. I haven't seen the piece yet,
+so I was delighted to hear the music. I promised him I would go on
+Wednesday, my first free night.
+
+Last night I went with Lady Northcote to the Opera; it was "Lohengrin"
+with Miss Eames and the Reszkes. The girl looked beautiful, quite the
+patrician maiden, and sang very well; a little cold, but that was of
+less importance in that opera than in "Romeo and Juliet," which needs
+more passion. The house was very full and she was much applauded. Jean
+de Reszke looked magnificent and sang divinely. What a voice it is, and
+how well he knows how to use it. I fancy Covent Garden is a much better
+salle to sing in than our great Paris Opéra. The voices seem so far off
+there, and all the singers complain and get soon tired. W. came in late
+just as I did. He had had a delightful dinner at Mr. Murray's (the
+publisher) with Mr. Gladstone. He said Mr. G. was in great form, talking
+about everything: books, politics, theories, and always with a perfect
+knowledge of each subject expressed in beautiful English. He must have a
+marvellous memory.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K_.
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    June 6, 1891.
+
+You will be amused, Dear, to hear that after all we have decided to have
+the children's comedy. The moment is not exactly propitious in the
+height of the London season when every instant is taken, but I think we
+can make something pretty, and Mdme. Thénard is very keen about it. We
+shall take the "Reine des Fées"--but very much changed, and parts added
+for every child--also a gavotte and a chorus. I saw some of the mammas,
+Countess Deym; Mdme. de Bille; Ladies Londonderry, Clanwilliam, etc.,
+yesterday, and they will let me have their daughters. Thénard will
+direct the whole thing, with Count de St. Genys (Secretary of the French
+Embassy in London) as régisseur and also décorateur, as he has begun
+painting a charming décor (the interior of the bailiff's cottage). Mdme.
+de Langhe will undertake the choeurs and leçons de diction, and I don't
+quite know yet whom we shall get for the gavotte, or how many children
+we must have. The dresses will be pretty--two sets--Marie Antoinette and
+all her ladies in powder--Trianon costumes--and peasants, market women,
+etc. Of course the boys are a difficulty. There are so few who are here
+of Francis's old friends--they are all at school. Thénard has a little
+friend (girl) whom she will dress as a Marquis--she says she will look
+the part very well. Francis is much excited--he is to be the cruel
+bailiff who takes all the money and everything else he can get from the
+poor peasants. St. Genys will see about his costume, and make a croquis
+from some picture of the period.
+
+    June 12, 1891.
+
+We are all (except the Ambassador) perfectly taken up with the
+comédie--and to-day we had our first répétition of the gavotte in the
+drawing-room. I hadn't thought of saying anything about the dancing to
+the young men, and it seems the "chancellerie" went nearly mad; their
+rooms being directly under the salons, they heard everything--the music
+beginning the same thing over and over again--and the heavy little feet
+that couldn't stay long on the tips of their toes. I had some trouble in
+finding a dancing-mistress--I thought first of the American who had that
+dancing class here where all the children went, but she didn't seem to
+understand exactly what I wanted. Finally some one told me I had much
+better send for Mrs. Roffy--ballet-mistress at the Alhambra--who has
+sometimes arranged menuets and gavottes for "les femmes du monde"; so I
+wrote to her to come and see me. She knew exactly what I wanted, would
+undertake the whole thing--how many children--what sort of a dance--was
+most business-like--and we fixed the first répétition at once. There
+were about 20 children, of all ages and sizes, varying from 3 years to
+14--Muriel White, Gay Edwardes and her brother, a little de Breunen,
+Elsa Deichmann, etc. Mrs. Roffy looked very nice. She is very tall, but
+rather graceful--she had a little black bag in which were her black silk
+stockings and pointed slippers, and asked if she might have a room to
+arrange herself--so Clarisse took charge of her. I took the piano--and
+most distracting it was--as no two of the children ever began their
+steps at the same time. It was amusing to see Mrs. Roffy. She moved
+extraordinarily gracefully for such a tall woman, and was so
+patient--holding up her dress, pointing her toes, and talking to them
+all the time--"Heads up, Dears--Heads up! Look at me--very proud,
+please." I should have given up in despair after a quarter of an hour.
+All the little arms and legs went at wrong times in wrong directions,
+and no one seemed to have the slightest idea of time. She will give one
+or two private lessons to some of the very small ones.
+
+Madame de Langhe, too, has her hands full with the chorus, "Vive la
+Reine"--but I think she must have some one behind the scenes to sing the
+solo, and then the children will come out strong in the chorus. The
+rôles are all distributed--Bianca Deym--a tall handsome girl--is to be
+Marie Antoinette; and the various other Court ladies are Lady Helen
+Stewart (Lady Londonderry's daughter), Lady J. Meade (Lady Clanwilliam's
+daughter), Marguerite Phelps, Anna Lawrence, Elsa de Bille, etc. I think
+it will be pretty.
+
+    June 15, 1891.
+
+Hilda and I have been half over London to-day for our stage scenes. We
+must have real ones representing a sort of wood where the market people
+have their stands, and the Queen and the ladies come to buy
+flowers--also sufficient space for the gavotte. The man promises to send
+it all the day before, as the children must rehearse at least once with
+the real scenes--for their entrées--that is always a little difficulty.
+The bigger girls do all right, but the little ones rush in--speak very
+quickly--and _always_ to Thénard, who stands at one side--looking hard
+at her to see if they are doing right--and paying no attention whatever
+to Her Gracious Majesty Queen Marie Antoinette. Muriel White is very
+good, very deliberate, very careful, and taking all the French nuances
+and intonations very well. Gay Edwardes, too, is very good--her French
+is pretty and easy, she learnt it so young in Paris. One of the others
+(I forget which one) was having a private lesson in a corner with
+Francis, who was trying to make her roll her Rs in a proper French
+fashion. She had a complaint to make of her garden--all about "carottes"
+et "giroflées," and the sentences had a true British ring. Francis is
+very important, takes himself quite "au sérieux," and is most interested
+in the proper diction of all the young ladies. I sat some time in the
+drawing-room while St. Genys was painting his scenes. We had various
+visitors (even W., who was very complimentary over the décor), tea, and
+Thénard to settle about a rampe of flowers and tapestry curtain.
+
+    Saturday, June 20, 1891.
+
+I am rather lazy this morning and feel as if I had suddenly nothing to
+do. The comédie went off very well yesterday and was a pretty sight.
+Until the last moment I was doubtful, as we had so many péripéties. At
+the dress rehearsal on Thursday, Bianca Deym (Marie Antoinette) was so
+hoarse she could hardly speak. The girl looked very handsome and
+distinguished in powder (trés bien coiffée) and one of her mother's
+handsome Court dresses, but Thénard wouldn't let her speak--said all her
+part herself, and told Bianca to pay great attention to her voice and
+gestures. Toupet (Francis), the cruel bailiff, had such a stiff neck and
+sore throat that he could hardly move--so he was rubbed hard with
+Elliman's Embrocation and sent to bed as soon as the répétition was
+over. His costume was very good--coat and long waistcoat of prune
+cloth--lace jabot--tricorne and gold-headed cane lent by one of his
+English cousins--a wig of course--which quite changed him. The girls
+looked charming--I don't know which was the most becoming--the powder
+and Court dress or the short skirts and high caps of the paysannes. The
+gavotte went very well. The small children in front and the bigger ones
+behind. I never could have believed that anyone could evolve anything
+like a gavotte from the whirling chaos of arms and legs that was my
+first impression. M. Lecomte (Secretary of the Embassy), who is a very
+good musician, was at the piano, and marked the time very exactly, which
+was absolutely necessary for such young performers.
+
+Various friends and Mammas came to look on and criticise--which was what
+we wanted--and all were pleased. Thénard and St. Genys were quite
+delighted--and as they have seen it from the first and noted the
+improvement, that was reassuring. Henry Edwardes came, much amused and
+slightly astonished at his children's performance (the boy was so good).
+He told me he considered it quite remarkable. He offered to take charge
+of the green-room the day of the performance, and I accepted with
+pleasure, as I am sure the children will be rather excited and probably
+unruly.
+
+I had a note from Miss Knollys while the répétition was going on saying
+that the Princess of Wales and her two daughters, Princesses Victoria
+and Maud, would be present on Friday at the performance. I announced
+this at once to my young troupe, and they were filled with pleasure and
+dismay at the appalling prospect of playing before Royalties. I went for
+a ride Friday morning with Pontavice and when I came in was given a wild
+note from the Countess Deym saying that Bianca had a complete
+"extinction de voix" and what could be done. If someone else could take
+the part (which was impossible at such short notice) she would send all
+her daughter's dress, which was very handsome, or Bianca would come and
+look the part and Thénard do the talking from the coulisses. Of course I
+chose the latter, and sent off Clarisse at once to the Austrian Embassy
+with a remedy that Mdme. Richard of the Opéra gave me. Francis was all
+right, his neck quite straight. After breakfast I had a last practice
+with him and Lecomte for the gavotte. I got in a small piano from Érard
+(my big one took up too much room behind the scenes) and then I
+dismissed the whole thing from my mind, and went to dress. I told the
+children to be there at 4.30 so as to begin the minute the Princess
+arrived. She said she would come at five.
+
+The little blue salon was a pretty sight when it was filled with all the
+children in costume. Thénard's Marquis looked too sweet--she had dressed
+the girl so well in satin coat, ruffles, and silk stockings, and
+enormous paste buckles on her shoes. She did her part perfectly--so
+easy, and such pretty French. The Princess came punctually with her two
+daughters, and the play began at once. I think there were about 100
+people--we couldn't seat any more as the stage took up a good deal of
+room. The prettiest scenes were the Trianon and the Market Place. In the
+Trianon, Marie Antoinette was seated surrounded by her ladies, and le
+Marquis telling them "les petites nouvelles de la cour." The child was
+killing when she took out her snuff-box and made flowery phrases. The
+Market was very well arranged with flowers and vegetables. Violet
+Freeman made a splendid old woman at one stall, and Hilda Deichmann did
+her boy's part very well. After the Queen had made her round (her voice
+came back, though she was rather hoarse still) she and her ladies
+retired a little to the background, where the Court made a brilliant
+group, while the peasants sang their chorus, "Vive la Reine." Then came
+the gavotte, which really went extremely well. Mrs. Roffy was breathless
+with recommendations until the last moment. Both chorus and gavotte were
+encored, and there was much applause when the curtain fell.
+
+[Illustration:
+Violet Freeman                     Francis Waddington
+A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy
+From a Photograph by Barker & Pragnell London]
+
+The Princess, who is always so gracious, asked me what I would like her
+to do, so I said if she would allow the whole troupe to defile before
+her I would name each one--and I knew it would give them great pleasure.
+She agreed at once, so the procession, headed by Marie Antoinette,
+passed, and the Princess shook hands with every one, talking a little to
+those she knew. They all applauded when Toupet, with his wig and cane,
+appeared. Then I named Mdmes. Thénard and Roffy--and I wish you could
+have seen those ladies' curtseys (Mdme. Roffy's particularly splendid),
+also St. Genys and Lecomte. The whole thing lasted a short hour, even
+with the répétition of chorus and gavotte. We had tea in the
+drawing-room--the children downstairs. The Princess told me she thought
+it charming--quite wonderful. The only two French children were Francis
+and the Marquis, but I must say I thought the others quite wonderful.
+When the Princess went away all the children assembled in the hall at
+the foot of the stairs, bowing and curtseying--and it was a pretty
+sight, such a mass of colour and flushed, eager little faces. The
+Princess told them all again how much she had enjoyed the performance,
+and it was quite a happy little crowd that dispersed soon afterward to
+their respective homes. W. complimented Thénard very much, who had given
+herself no end of trouble--also Mdme. de Langhe, who had undertaken the
+chorus. Some of the ladies were rather anxious we should repeat the
+performance for the benefit of some charity, but W. didn't like to have
+a paying thing at the Embassy; and at one of the public halls it would
+not have been very easy--some of the ladies objected.
+
+I dined at home, but went to a concert in the evening, and had various
+compliments for my troupe. The Prince of Wales told me that the Princess
+had told him it was quite charming. I think on the whole W. was pleased.
+He was rather doubtful about inviting the Princess--thought it was a
+little informal, and would bore her, but I don't think it did.
+
+    Tuesday, June 23, 1891.
+
+We have had various notices in the French papers of the comédie; generally
+"une bonne presse," but one or two of the very Republican papers expressed
+great surprise at such a _Royalist Demonstration_--couldn't imagine _why_
+we had chosen that particular chorus, "Vive la Reine," at an Embassy
+representing the French Republic!
+
+I am sorry you couldn't come over--all the répétitions would have amused
+you so much. Nothing was funnier than to see Francis always in a corner
+with some of the girls. Madame Campan (Elsa de Bille) had a long thing
+to say, and was most anxious to have the correct accent.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    July 8, 1891.
+
+I dined quietly with some of the personnel last night, and had Thekla
+Staal, as her mother and father had gone to Windsor for the State
+banquet for the German Emperor. Mdme. de Staal came in for a moment on
+her way home--she said it was very handsome, very well done, as it
+always is at Windsor, only they were all rather uncomfortable, as they
+went down from London by special train in full dress--diamonds and
+feathers--and when they arrived at the Castle they were asked to take
+off their wraps in the hall, no dressing-room of any kind provided. I
+don't know what my erratic hair would have looked like. Of course I
+couldn't go on account of my mourning.
+
+All London was on the "qui vive" this morning, as the German Emperor was
+to make his formal entry into London. I thought I wouldn't go in the
+carriage and take up a position, so Mrs. Edwardes suggested that I
+should go with her to Constitution Hill, where she had places, and see
+the Emperor pass there; so we started off on foot quite cheerfully, but
+as soon as we got outside the Park and wanted to cross the Square, we
+were confronted by lines of soldiers and policemen, who refused to let
+us pass. I explained who I was and that I was merely going to cross to
+Constitution Hill, but they evidently thought nothing of an Ambassadress
+in a simple black dress with neither equipage nor servants, and we were
+getting rather discouraged when I saw a Park-keeper who knew me, so he
+instantly went after one of the heads of the mounted police, who
+appeared, made way for us and accompanied us (he riding) across the
+Square. Some of our friends, who were looking on from windows in the
+houses opposite, were rather anxious--thought we had been arrested. We
+waited a little while and very soon the head of the procession appeared.
+We made ourselves as small as we could and squeezed close up to the
+gate, but the Horse Guards on their big, black horses came unpleasantly
+near and the least plunge or kick would have been disastrous. The Royal
+carriage passed quite close to us at a quick trot. The Emperor looked
+very wide-awake and soldierly in blue dragoon uniform; the Empress, tall
+and fair, in white, was seated next to him; the Prince of Wales and the
+Duke of Edinburgh on the front seat. There was not much enthusiasm, a
+few hats (not all) lifted. The Emperor saluted all the time,
+mechanically. When he saw me he leaned forward, smiled and bowed in
+evident recognition. I can't think how he knew me, standing there in a
+crowd of nursery-maids and children. He had seen me but twice before,
+and then in the evening in full dress. I suppose it is that
+extraordinary memory, instinct almost, that all Princes have, and which
+does them such good service. Everyone is pleased and flattered at being
+recognised by a Royalty. I was, too, just like all the rest. I wasn't
+mistaken in thinking he knew me. He told one of our secretaries at the
+reception at the Palace that he had seen Mdme. Waddington _standing_ in
+the crowd.
+
+Hilda came to dinner with Countess Eulenbourg (wife of the Master of
+Ceremonies of the German Court) and her boy. They were very late, as the
+Countess had been to Buckingham Palace to see the Empress. She said the
+confusion was something awful. She had great difficulty in getting in,
+was sent from pillar to post and finally the carriage was allowed to
+enter through the stable-yard. She was glad to have a quiet evening. Her
+husband was at the gala performance at the Opera with the Emperor and
+Empress. She spoke a great deal about the Emperor, said it was
+impossible to be with him without feeling what a strong personality he
+is; that what he felt was right and best for Germany he would certainly
+do--also that he would never shirk a responsibility, or put the blame on
+others if he made a mistake. It seems curious to be suddenly out of
+everything. W. is still in France[11] and of course our deep mourning
+makes all Court and gala things impossible for us. I think W. must come
+back before the Emperor goes and try to see him in a private audience,
+if nothing else can be arranged.
+
+[11] Where he had been summoned on account of the death of his mother.
+
+    Thursday, 9th.
+
+All the Corps Diplomatique were received this morning at Buckingham
+Palace--the men by the Emperor, the women by the Empress. Hatzfeldt
+presented the men. In W.'s absence, d'Estournelles represented the
+Embassy (with all the secretaries of course). As he was only Chargé
+d'Affaires, he could not take W.'s place as Doyen at the head of the
+row--on the contrary, was quite at the end; after all the Ministers of
+the small Powers--however they made a little group apart. The Emperor
+talked a little while to d'Estournelles--regretted very much not seeing
+W.--knew that he was still in France, and told him to tell me that he
+had recognised me at once in the Park. He said a few words to each
+member of the Embassy. The ladies were presented by Mdme. de Staal--my
+young women told me she did it very well, passing down the line with the
+Empress and naming every one. They also found the Empress very gracious,
+saying something to each one--of course there is never any real
+conversation on such occasions, people are usually in a hurry and
+anxious to get through their _function_.
+
+This afternoon was the garden party at Marlborough House--Mdme.
+d'Estournelles and Florian came in afterward to tell me about it; also
+Mme. de Bille (wife of the Danish Minister), she is an American, née
+Zabriskie. They said there was a great crowd, and such a hedge of loyal
+subjects around the Royalties that it was almost impossible to see them
+even. Princess of Monaco (née Heine), who was with the Court (her
+husband being a "prince regnant," of a minute principality certainly),
+made a sign to Countess de Florian to come and speak to her, and she
+also had quite a talk with Princess Amélie of Schleswig Holstein, cousin
+of the German Emperor, whom she had known as a girl in Pau, when her
+father, Marquis de Nadaillac, was Préfet there. Staal came in late, and
+hopes that W. will come back (he is always such a good colleague). He
+thinks it will make a bad effect, the French Ambassador being the only
+one absent. He thinks he ought to come over for the breakfast at the
+Mansion House, which is strictly official, and where the Emperor will
+probably make a speech. I will write to him to-night and tell him what
+they all say.
+
+    Friday, July 10th.
+
+I rode this morning with Pontavice, the Military Attaché, and just
+missed the Emperor, who was riding with six or seven officers, all in
+uniform, which seems strange, as the officers never wear uniform except
+when they are on duty. We sometimes see the officer of the day riding in
+the Row in uniform, but never any other. In Paris it is quite different;
+all the officers of the Paris garrison, which is a very large one,
+always ride in uniform in the Bois in the morning. I went to the War
+Office afterward to see the Emperor, Empress, and Prince and Princess
+pass on their way to the Lord Mayor's banquet. The display of troops was
+rather mesquin--the Grenadiers standing so far apart that there were
+groups of street boys in between. The Royalties were fairly applauded
+(the Prince and Princess are always whenever they appear). The Emperor
+was in a white uniform, but his helmet is so big and heavy and so low on
+his face that one could hardly see him. Francis and I dined quietly at
+the Russian Embassy, and the Staals told us all about the various fêtes.
+They said the getting away from the Mansion House was awful--when the
+gentlemen of the household were trying to make a passage for the
+Princess of Wales there was a general skirmish, one of the ladies of the
+Corps Diplomatique was struck on the shoulder by one of the gentlemen,
+and there was a fine row--the husband of the lady furious, the
+unfortunate equerry protesting, saying he was incapable of such an
+enormity, etc. However, excuses were made and peace restored.
+
+    Saturday, July 11th.
+
+I rode this morning with Pontavice, and we met the Emperor, also riding,
+several times; but he did _not_ recognise me this time in my habit. He
+had six or seven officers with him and two grooms. All the officers, the
+Emperor also, in uniform, and wearing those long German sabres that hang
+loose and make a great clatter. They all rode at a gallop and set all
+the horses in the Row by the ears. I really had some trouble with my
+quiet animal, who was jumping and kicking all over the place. I had
+several visits at tea-time. My windows and balconies giving on the Park
+are most attractive, as there are quantities of people about--a sort of
+general excitement in the air, and royal carriages and soldiers passing
+all the time. D'Estournelles came in and told me about the review. He
+said the troops looked splendid, but the arrangements were very bad--no
+seats reserved--he and his wife and many ladies standing all the time.
+Mme. d'Estournelles was dead tired and had gone home to bed. W. came
+back for dinner; he looks grave and sad. We sat on the balcony after
+dinner while he smoked. He said he must go to the luncheon at Hatfield
+for the Emperor and Empress. As long as he was Ambassador, he had no
+right to let any private grief prevent his taking part in a public
+function, particularly in this case, when his absence might be
+misconstrued.
+
+    Sunday, July 18th.
+
+I went this afternoon to consult some of my colleagues about my dress
+for Hatfield. Of course I am in deep mourning, and I didn't know if I
+could meet Royalties in black. At some Courts, Russia for instance,
+black is not allowed--when people are in mourning they wear white. After
+various consultations, I decided that I would go in my black dress; so I
+have had some lace put on top of the flounce of "crépon de laine," which
+is really very deep mourning.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    Tuesday, July 19, 1891.
+
+We had a most interesting day at Hatfield, and evidently we were right
+in going. We went down by a special, W. in deep mourning, I in my black
+crépon, my big pearls in my ears and around my neck, a little crêpe
+bonnet (with a soupçon of jet) and an ordinary dotted tulle veil. All
+our colleagues were most empressés and nice--said it had been so strange
+not to see either of us at any of the fêtes. There were, as usual, a
+certain number of young men, sons of the house, secretaries, etc., at
+the station at Hatfield; plenty of carriages, and in a few minutes we
+were at the house. We passed straight through the rooms to the terrace,
+where a very smart company was assembled. Some of the young women in
+white satin and lace, high bodices of course, all very much dressed, and
+all with necklaces and jewels on their corsages. No one in particular
+received us. Lady Salisbury was driving with the Empress, Lord Salisbury
+talking with the Prince of Wales, and the Emperor riding. (The
+Salisburys had an enormous house party, all arrived the night before for
+dinner--the Emperor and Empress with their suite, also the Prince and
+Princess and theirs.) I was strolling about the terrace with Countess
+Deym when we came suddenly upon the Princess of Wales, walking about
+with her "Kodak" and looking about 25 in her simple grey foulard and big
+black hat. As we went up to speak to her, she made us a sign to stop,
+saying "I want you in my picture." We talked to her a little while and
+then she said she must go and make herself "smart" for the lunch-party.
+There was still some time before there was any sign of Princes--or
+lunch. Mr. Barrington asked us to stand near the perron, as he had
+charge of the placing of the people. The Emperor and Empress appeared
+first, and immediately made a sort of cercle. Lady Salisbury presented
+me at once to the Empress, and she was most amiable, regretted not
+having seen me at the reception at Buckingham Palace, adding, "J'ai vu
+toutes vos jeunes femmes, plus jolies les unes que les autres." The
+Emperor, too, was easy and pleasant, but so many people were brought up
+to him all the time that he couldn't talk much. It was interesting to
+watch him. He was of course _the_ central figure, and there is always a
+certain curiosity as to what he will do. He holds himself very straight,
+has a stern face and rather a stiff manner, not particularly gracious,
+speaks English of course perfectly well (in fact looks like an
+Englishman, particularly in ordinary dress--of course the uniform
+changes him a little). I think he knew about everybody who was presented
+to him; soldiers, statesmen, artists, and seemed to be interested in the
+very short talks he had with each one. He and W. had quite a talk, and
+he again expressed his regret at not having seen him before, and also
+for the cause which had kept him away. The Prince and Princess stood
+about on the terrace while all the presentations were going on, talking
+to their friends. After about half an hour there was a move to the great
+dining-hall. I think there were about 150 guests. The Royalties and
+swells lunched in the great hall at small tables of ten, and the others
+in the ordinary dining-room. I was at Lord Salisbury's table, who took
+in the Empress; the Prince took me; Hatzfeldt (German Ambassador) Mdme.
+de Staal; Rustem (Turkish Ambassador) Princess Maud; Soveral (Portuguese
+Minister) Countess Spencer. At Lady Salisbury's table were the Emperor,
+Princess, Staal, W., etc. The talk was fairly easy at our
+table--Hatzfeldt said to me rather pointedly, "Je suis très heureux de
+vous voir ici aujourd'hui, Madame Waddington." The Prince also said we
+were quite right to come. I said I thought my plain black dress was
+rather out of place at such a brilliant entertainment, but he assured me
+it was quite correct.
+
+About half way through luncheon came the pearl necklace incident (which
+you saw in the papers). I suddenly felt that my necklace was unclasped.
+It was sewed on the corsage in front, as the pearls are large and heavy,
+and I am always afraid of breaking the string. I asked Soveral, who was
+next to me, if he couldn't clasp it for me. He tried, but was nervous or
+awkward; at any rate couldn't manage it, and we were both getting red
+and flustered when suddenly we heard the Emperor from his table calling
+W.'s attention to the fact that "le Portugal était en train d'étrangler
+la France"; also Staal, saying that his "Collègue du Portugal se livrait
+à une gymnastique étrange." They all made various jokes at my expense,
+and the Prince said "Let me do it," but he couldn't either, and again we
+heard the Emperor remarking, "Maintenant c'est plus sérieux--l'Angleterre
+s'en mêle." W., who had his back to me and who couldn't see what was going
+on, was decidedly mystified, and wondered what on earth I was doing to
+attract so much attention, in fact was rather annoyed. When we got up from
+table the Prince and I retreated to a corner of the terrace, and he cut the
+stitches that held the necklace in front with his knife (which again looked
+funny to the people assembled on the terrace). He advised me to put the
+pearls, _not_ in my pocket, but in a safe place, as they were very
+handsome, so I put them _inside_ my dress. Of course everybody asked me
+what had happened, and what the Emperor was saying to me from the other
+table. I asked the Empress if she was never afraid of losing her pearls,
+but she said all her jewels were most carefully sewn on and strung on a
+very thick string or sort of silk cord.
+
+Very soon after lunch the Emperor and Empress left, as they were
+starting in the evening for Germany, and had to go to Windsor to take
+leave of the Queen. The Prince and Princess followed quickly, and then,
+of course, all of us. W. had again a talk with the Emperor, and all his
+colleagues told him he was quite right to come. Any little incident
+between France and Germany always assumes gigantic proportions, and the
+papers, both French and German, would have been full of the _marked_
+absence of the French Ambassador from all the fêtes for the Emperor; his
+mourning a pretext, etc. It was a beautiful entertainment--bright,
+perfect summer day, quantities of pretty women beautifully dressed (a
+great many in white) and representative people of all kinds. The general
+impression was that the Emperor was not a lady's man--he evidently
+preferred talking to army and political men. My talk with him was so
+perfectly banal that I can scarcely have an opinion, but I should think
+one might talk to him easily. His face is certainly stern, and the
+manner very cold, but his smile, like the Queen's, lights up and softens
+the face. I said to one of the pretty young women who had made a
+luncheon-party for him, that I had heard that it was beautifully done,
+and that he was much pleased. She said she hoped he was, that as far as
+she personally was concerned he hadn't the slightest idea whether she
+was 25 or 50.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    January 12, 1892.
+
+W. and I came over yesterday in a snowstorm. It was beastly getting out
+of the train and on the boat at Calais. I am rather depressed, having
+left Francis behind at a professor's near the Lycée Janson, to follow
+the cours there as externe. I shall miss him frightfully, but it was
+quite time for him to go to France and go through the regular course. He
+was forgetting his French here. Of course he and his father always speak
+French to each other, but he went to a little English school, Miss
+Quirim's, in Sloane Street (where there were quantities of little
+friends beginning their education), played all day with English
+children, heard nothing else spoken around him, and was rapidly becoming
+an Englishman. The house seems dreadfully quiet without him, and poor
+little Bonny, the fox-terrier, is miserable. He couldn't think why he
+wasn't with us to-day on our journey and galloped up to his room as soon
+as he arrived at the Embassy, asking everybody really with his eyes
+where his master was. Florian came in at once to see us, and told us
+that the Duke of Clarence was frightfully ill at Sandringham. He always
+looked rather delicate, tall and slight and colourless, but I hope his
+youth will pull him through. He had been rather more en évidence these
+last months since his engagement to Princess May, daughter of Princess
+Mary, Duchess of Teck. I think it is a marriage that pleases the nation.
+Princess May is young and pretty, with a pretty figure and essentially
+English--born and brought up in the country. Everybody adores her
+mother, Princess Mary, and I think it will be a very happy marriage.
+
+    January 13, 1892.
+
+I am afraid there is no chance for the poor young Prince. Florian came
+in for a moment, just back from Marlborough House, where the bulletins
+are posted twice a day. There were crowds of people reading them and
+trying to get some detailed information. Florian saw one of the
+equerries, who told him there was no hope, he was sinking fast and would
+probably not live through the night. He told him the Princess never left
+him and was heart-broken, her eldest boy. It is hard for her. They seem
+to think it was a neglected cold, caught out shooting, and not taken in
+time. All the personnel came in to see me and brought their New Year's
+present--4 pretty corbeilles for bonbons. They always give me something
+New Year's Day and I am much pleased to have the souvenirs. I can hardly
+realise that we have been here nearly 9 years. We came in '83 and
+thought we should stay perhaps two years. I am so accustomed to the life
+now that I feel as if I had always spent half the year in England and
+the other half in France. I suppose I shall miss a great many things
+when we retire into private life, perhaps most of all the family life
+with all the personnel of the Embassy. We have had various changes, of
+course, but I generally pull well with them all, and I must say they are
+always ready to help me in every way. I haven't had too many women,
+which is pleasant; women are much more complicated to deal with than
+men--there are always so many small jealousies and rivalries.
+
+    Thursday, January 14, 1892.
+
+The poor young Duke is dead at 9 o'clock this morning, in spite of all
+that tender nursing and skill could do. He had not strength to fight
+against the malady. It is awfully hard at his age and in his position;
+just now, too, when his marriage was so popular. Florian came at once to
+tell us, and said there was such a crowd outside Marlborough House that
+he could hardly get through into the court, where the policeman showed
+him the Prince of Wales's telegram, "All is over." We had various visits
+at tea-time; Deym among others, who had done just what we did--sent
+telegrams to the Prince and Princess and the Tecks at Sandringham. He
+told me he had dined at White Lodge with the Tecks on Christmas Eve (for
+their Christmas tree) and that they were all so happy. Princess Mary
+took him upstairs and showed him all the presents--coupons of velvet,
+brocade, etc., for dresses, also the wedding dress, and said to him, "Je
+suis si heureuse que j'en ai peur." Poor thing; perhaps it was a
+presentiment. I am awfully sorry for them, for her perhaps more than for
+Princess May, who is young and must of course get over it, as youth
+happily is elastic and rebounds; but Princess Mary is different. She has
+her share of worries and disappointments, and she was so happy and proud
+of the marriage. It must be an awful blow to her.
+
+    Sunday, January 19, 1892.
+
+I went to the little church behind the Embassy this morning and am very
+sorry now that I didn't go to St. Paul's, where there was a fine
+service--the organ playing the Dead March in Saul, and all the
+congregation standing, a good many women crying, all in black. It was
+impressive in the little church--everyone in black. There is a general
+mourning ordered for three weeks, and Court mourning for six (which is a
+shorter time than I thought). (I send on a sheet apart what I would like
+you to order for me. I have nothing black but my black satin evening
+dress, which fortunately is all black, no white, lace, or colour). They
+sang the funeral hymn "Labourer, thy work is o'er," the first time I had
+ever heard it, and beautiful it was; read the prayer for the "Royal
+Family in affliction," and one for the influenza--which surprised me, as
+I should not have thought the epidemic was bad enough for that. The
+sermon, of course, was all about Prince Eddie and the young life cut
+short. It was very simple and earnest and the congregation certainly
+felt and showed great sympathy. I went for a short turn in the Park
+afterward and walked about a little with Henry Edwardes and his
+children. He is rather down, poor fellow, as his congé drags on and they
+seem in no hurry at the Foreign Office to give him another post. I
+believe he didn't get on very well with his last chief, and of course
+all chiefs are not commodes, but equally of course when there comes a
+question the secretary is _always_ in the wrong. Edwardes is very clever
+and cultivated. W. thinks him an excellent agent. In Paris he always
+knew what was going on, and knew so many people of all kinds.
+
+This afternoon I had my usual Sunday visits--principally diplomatists
+this time, and all talking about Prince Eddie's funeral. It seems a pity
+they don't make a grand military funeral, the procession passing through
+London. There was such a striking outburst of sympathy and loyalty when
+his death was announced that the people would have been glad to
+associate themselves with the last rites. They don't invite all the
+Chefs de Mission to the funeral at Windsor (which also seems strange,
+Prince Eddie being the heir), merely those of the "Cours apparentées."
+That will take in Hatzfeldt, German Ambassador; Staal, Russian; de
+Bille, Danish Minister; Gennadius, Greece; Soveral, Portugese; and
+Solvyns, Belgian. All the others go to a special service at St. James's
+Chapel, in uniform.
+
+    Wednesday, January 20, 1892.
+
+To-day is the funeral. Our flag is half-mast, and all the windows shut
+in the drawing-rooms. It is mild and damp, but not cold. Mdme. de
+Florian and I have been driving about this afternoon to have an
+impression of the streets. All the shops are shut, blinds down in all
+the houses, flags at half-mast, and everyone in black. Some of the
+hansom cab drivers with bits of black ribbon or stuff on their whips,
+and everybody looks grave. I can't help thinking it was a pity not to
+let the people participate in the mourning and feel they were taking
+some part. In these days of democracy one should take any chance of
+strengthening the feeling of loyalty. W. went off in uniform, with crêpe
+on sleeve and sword hilt, at 3, to the service at the Chapel Royal, St.
+James's, which seems to have been rather mild. The diplomatists (4
+Ambassadors), Chefs de Mission, were received by Mr. Eric Barrington,
+Lord Salisbury's secretary; Mr. Thomas Sanderson, and Colonel Chaine.
+
+W. dined in the evening with Hilda, to meet Count Seckendorff and Bülow,
+who had come over from Germany to the funeral. They said the service was
+very simple and impressive, and that the Prince of Wales and Prince
+George looked badly, the Prince of Wales much agitated. Seckendorff said
+he could just manage to speak to them when they all filed past him after
+the ceremony. The Princesses were all in the chapel in a sort of
+gallery. Quite at the end the Prince stepped forward and laid a white
+wreath (given by Princess May) on the coffin.
+
+    Saturday, January 30, 1892.
+
+It is still very mild and damp, rather dismal weather, and the streets
+are depressing, everyone in black--the mourning is very general, not at
+all confined to the fashionable world. Mdme. de Florian and I drove out
+to White Lodge, and cheerless it looked, so lonely and sad with the
+black winter trees all around the house. We did not see either of the
+Princesses; they were in London, but Teck came out to speak to us. I
+never saw him appear so well--he was so simple and distressed for his
+daughter. He said she was very quiet, but perfectly heart-broken, and
+that he had always had a presentiment that something would
+happen--everything had gone too smoothly. He said the coming back there
+after the funeral was something too awful--all the wedding presents and
+stuffs and laces scattered about the rooms--letters and telegrams of
+congratulation, bouquets of white flowers, in fact all the preparations
+for a wedding; and at the same time people waiting to try on
+mourning--telegrams of condolence, etc. What a tragedy! He said he had
+no hope from the first. Prince Eddie was struck down at once, and he
+didn't think the Princess of Wales ever had a gleam of hope. She never
+left her boy until all was over.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    Wednesday, February 10, 1892.
+
+I went as usual to have tea with the Countess de Bylandt this afternoon,
+who receives always Wednesday. She always has plenty of people and one
+has a pleasant hour. She was worried about her husband to-day, who is
+ill. He is not very young and I should think has always been delicate.
+He is Dutch Minister, and has been here for years. She is a Russian
+born, very clever and amusing. We dined with Baron Gevers, Dutch
+Secretary, at the new restaurant or club, l'Amphytrion, which is
+supposed to be the best and dearest in London. It is kept by Émile, a
+well-known Parisian. We were a _young_ party, the Florians, St. Genys,
+and the Lataings (Belgian Legation). The dinner was excellent,
+certainly--Émile knew that his Ambassador was coming and had done his
+best. He was always hovering about the table to see that all was right,
+and we complimented him very much on the way everything was cooked and
+served. I said to him that he had very good material in London to work
+upon, to which he replied, with magnificent contempt for anything that
+was not French--"Il n'y a pas de marché à Londres, je fais venir tout de
+Paris." When one thinks of Covent Garden, with its piles of splendid
+salmon, haunches of venison, hot-house fruits, grapes, pine-apples, and
+_primeurs_ of all kinds, the answer was amusing. We went upstairs for
+coffee and cigarettes and had a very pleasant evening. It is so good for
+W. to be with young people occasionally. He talked a great deal, and the
+young men were interested in some of his Cambridge reminiscences.
+
+    Thursday, February 11, 1892.
+
+It is still quite mild. After breakfast I went with Hilda to the British
+Museum to hear a young Oxonian lady lecture on Greek Antiquities and the
+Eleusinian Mysteries. She did it very easily--a pretty, cultivated voice
+and very distinct pronunciation. The lecture lasted about an hour. She
+had all sorts of photographs of bas-reliefs, statues, paintings, etc.,
+and it was very interesting, much more so than I expected, as Greek
+antiquities are not much in my line. After the lecture was over, Mr.
+Thomson, the director of the Museum (a charming man), came to get us and
+showed us as much as we could see before 4, when it gets dark and the
+Museum is shut. The reading-room and library are enormous, and for
+London very light. The collection of missals, autographs, etc., is
+splendid. Some of the old, old missals so beautiful still, the colours
+so wonderfully preserved. We went to Mr. Thomson's room in the Museum
+building for tea. His daughter was there and gave us very good tea and
+muffins. Altogether we had a most interesting afternoon. We dined with
+Mrs. Mitford (widow of Percy Mitford, diplomatist). She has a very
+pretty and original house and is a very easy hostess, having lived much
+abroad. She is a great friend of Princess Mary and told me I ought to go
+and see her. Mr. Lincoln, the American Minister, was there, and we all
+teased him about the Presidential election (the papers say he is to be
+the next President). Mdme. de Bille and I told him we were racking our
+brains to think what we could ask him for our friends at home when he
+would be at the White House. He assured us there was no possible chance
+of it, and no one would be as sorry as he himself if ever the thing came
+to pass. It certainly would be difficult to be a second President
+Lincoln.
+
+    Friday, February 19, 1892.
+
+It is still very cold, snow lying on the ground (in the parks), which is
+rare in London. I have just had a little note from Princess Mary, asking
+me to come and see her on Sunday at White Lodge, as she leaves early in
+the week for the Riviera. Wolff came in late to ask me if I would take
+him out to White Lodge, as Princess Mary had also written to him to
+come. He had his violin, so he played for about an hour, and most
+enchanting it was. I occasionally forgot about the accompaniment,
+listening to his beautiful long notes. He didn't mind, was standing in
+the middle of the room (playing by heart) and went on quite serenely
+until I caught him up somewhere and went on again. I dined quietly with
+Jean (as W. had a man's dinner at one of the clubs) and we made music
+all the evening. She is very busy translating a German book, Lady
+Blennerhasset's "Life of Madame de Staël." It looked easy at first, but
+I fancy is rather a formidable undertaking, as Lady B. has a very
+distinct style--very German, and I should think it must lose in
+translation. She had rather come to grief over one page. I looked over
+it, and said I didn't find it _very_ difficult, and I know German well,
+upon which she replied, "Please read it out to me, then, in good
+English." I began, but came to grief at once. I had got the meaning
+right enough in my head, but couldn't at all express it at once in
+correct or fluent English, and I don't know that a dictionary would have
+helped me much. It was more the turn of the phrase and a peculiar form
+of expression.
+
+    Sunday, February 21, 1892.
+
+It is very mild to-day--a complete thaw. Wolff came to breakfast, also
+Mdme. de Florian, and we drove out to White Lodge for tea. It was
+pleasant enough driving, as there was no wind, but the park and place
+looked dreary. I had always seen it so gay, with so many young people
+about, that I could hardly realise that it was the same house. We were
+expected--two or three footmen in deep mourning were at the door and
+took us at once to the drawing-room. In a few minutes the three
+appeared: father, mother, and daughter. I was rather nervous, but they
+were so natural, it was such real grief, that we felt quite at our ease,
+and so sorry for them all. Princess May looked lovely. She has grown
+much thinner, and the long black dress covered with crêpe, with the
+white collar and cuffs (that all widows wear in England), was most
+becoming. Her complexion was beautiful, so delicate, and her eyes had
+that peculiar bright look that one sees in people who have cried a great
+deal. Before tea I had a long talk with Princess Mary, who said that it
+all seemed a dream--the first days at White Lodge, when the young couple
+were so happy, making all sorts of plans, for their future seemed so
+bright and brilliant; so convinced that long years of happiness and
+usefulness were before them that she was frightened sometimes, and used
+to tell them that there would be great cares and responsibilities in
+their position, and that they must both help each other as much as they
+could (she said Prince Eddie was naturally timid, and rather disposed to
+underrate his intelligence). Then came the sudden change. Those terrible
+days at Sandringham, where she hoped against hope, and then the coming
+back to White Lodge, which must have been heart-breaking. I only said a
+few words to Princess May as we were going away, but Mdme. de Florian
+had some talk with her. She said she felt stunned--could hardly believe
+that all was over, but that she must try and take up her life again. "It
+will be very hard; I suppose I was too happy."
+
+They are starting at once for the South, and I hope it will do her good.
+Various people came in, among others Mrs. Mitford, who is a devoted
+friend of the Tecks, and so sorry for them. She said it was melancholy
+to see them the first days after they got back to White Lodge. All the
+presents had to be put away or sent back; all the letters and telegrams
+sorted and put away, and that Princess May moved about like a ghost.
+
+We had a quiet evening until some late telegrams came announcing a
+Ministerial crisis in France, for nothing apparently. W. and his
+secretaries were disgusted. There are so many changes in France, and we
+never know who is coming to the Foreign Office. I think it is time for
+us to go back. We have been away a long time, and it isn't good for a
+man to live too much out of his own country.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Wednesday, February 24, 1892.
+
+It is very cold and foggy this morning, impossible to ride; we see all
+the grooms exercising the saddle horses in the Park. I went for tea as
+usual to Mdme. de Bylandt. He is still in his bed, and very bad I
+imagine. This evening we have been to "Venice," the great show at
+Olympia. We went a family party (Embassy), Florians, St. Genys,
+Pontavice, d'Agoult. It is really very prettily done; you must see it
+when you come over. We had a capital box directly in the centre of the
+house, but the director, hearing we were there, came to pay us a visit,
+and transferred us to the Royal box, which is very large and
+comfortable--seats twenty people easily. He sent us some ices, and said
+he would have two gondolas waiting at the end of the performance to take
+us through the lagoons. The performance was a sort of ballet--very
+pretty girls well got up in Venetian costume, very artistically grouped,
+and quantities of colour. As soon as it was over we went down to the
+"Canal," where we found two gondolas, the real thing, with Venetian
+gondoliers, who were much pleased when I spoke Italian to them. We went
+all around the show, passing under the Bridge of Sighs, and finally
+wound up at a Neapolitan café, where they were playing and singing all
+the well-known Italian songs, "Santa Lucia," "Bella Napoli," etc.
+Florian of course found a friend, one of the singers, who recognised
+him, having seen him in Rome when she was singing there; so of course we
+all fraternised, and we stayed there some time listening to all the
+familiar songs and accompaniment of guitar and mandoline. We had quite
+the impression of having spent our evening in Italy. W. was much amused
+when we told him of Florian's "connaissance," as he always says he knows
+more people than anyone he has ever seen, and is related to half France.
+He is always going to some cousin's funeral in Paris. French people are
+so particular about funerals--never fail to pay that last respect to
+their dead friends; also wear mourning much more than we do. They are
+constantly in real mourning (not merely fancy black) for three weeks or
+a month, for a very distant cousin.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Monday, March 9, 1892.
+
+It is cold and snowing, not a very pleasant day for our excursion to
+Herkomer's studio, in the country; however, I had a line from Hilda
+saying they were quite willing to go if I didn't mind the weather, so I
+consulted with Lecomte, one of the secretaries who was going with us,
+and we thought we would go. It would be very difficult for me to find
+another day, as London is filling up for its avant-saison, and we have
+quantities of engagements. We met the Deichmanns at the station, and
+there discovered that we had 40 minutes to wait, so we breakfasted there
+in the big dining-room, and it wasn't bad at all. Deichmann knows
+everybody and is well known at Euston--so thanks to him we had a really
+excellent breakfast (and it turned out very well, as we only got to
+Herkomer's for tea, and we should have been half starved). We had about
+three-quarters of an hour by rail to our destination, Bushey, in the
+county of Herts. It was bright and beautiful when we got to the station,
+but the trees were white with frost and snow everywhere. We found our
+host in a temporary installation. He is building himself an enormous
+castle, and all the work, stone-cutting, wood-carving, painting, etc.,
+is done on the spot by his pupils, Herkomer himself superintending and
+directing everything. He is most interesting; full of all sorts of
+knowledge and fancies. We went over the studios and saw everything. Some
+dull red wood they were using came from America he told me--I forget the
+name of the tree, I think a Californian. It would have amused you to see
+the eager, intelligent faces of the young workmen, especially when
+Herkomer was going about explaining his ideas and criticising or
+encouraging. It reminded me rather of an evening at Wilhelmj's (the
+great violinist) long ago in Germany. He had a villa near my
+sister-in-law's, Mdme. Charles de Bunsen, at Mosbach, near
+Biebrich-am-Rhein. We all went over there one night to a musical party
+when I was staying with my sister. His house was most artistically
+arranged, all "Alt Deutsch," with an enormous music-room. He was waiting
+for us there surrounded by all his pupils, about 10, with their violins
+and music-stands, and all looking so eager and anxious to begin. He
+played himself quite beautifully, and when he was accompanied by all the
+others it was a very pretty sight, he in the middle and all the young
+ones around him with their eyes fixed on him. He was one of Wagner's
+right-hand men and played often with him. They played among other things
+the prelude of "Parsifal," which haunted me for days afterward. You
+can't imagine anything more divine than those beautiful long notes of
+his and the soft arpeggio accompaniments of the violins. I couldn't hear
+anything else afterward. Someone asked him to play Schubert's "Ave
+Maria," which he did of course beautifully, but it sounded so tame after
+the other, which I told him; but he said I was quite wrong, that
+Schubert had written beautiful things, so melodious. All the same, I
+would have preferred remaining with the impression of that wonderful
+prelude. What reminded me of all this was the same sort of
+cadre--"Maître et apprentis," for Herkomer is quite the old-fashioned
+embodiment of the "Master" with his pupils. We had tea in the studio,
+where there were some fine portraits. I think I like his men better than
+his women. It is so difficult to make an interesting picture of a man in
+ordinary everyday dress. Herkomer has certainly succeeded in making some
+wonderful pictures, without uniform, or costume, or colour of any kind
+to appeal to the imagination. We got back late for dinner. I was rather
+tired and cold after my long day--we had started early, and I persuaded
+W. with some difficulty to go to Lord Salisbury's reception without me.
+However, he rather enjoyed himself. He didn't get much farther than the
+door, where he remained talking with Lady Salisbury, which he always
+likes. I don't think he was away more than an hour.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    March 28, 1892.
+
+We had a nice canter this morning. There were a good many people out. We
+had a pleasant dinner last night at Lady Winifred Gardner's, one of
+those curious mixtures one only sees in London. The Brownlows, Lord
+Carrington, Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, Hare the actor and his wife, also
+various stray men. I found Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone both much
+changed--much older--but he is marvellous--talked, eat, and drank like a
+man of 50. Hare talked a great deal, and a great deal to W., who found
+him clever and original.
+
+    Wednesday, 30th.
+
+Well, my Dear, I opened my bazaar yesterday, and you will be surprised
+to hear that I was rather nervous--only for one moment, I must say, when
+they asked me, after one or two speeches and a little "Marseillaise," if
+I would pronounce the sacramental phrase and declare the bazaar open. I,
+with the committee, was seated in a red chair on the platform. When I
+got up (the only person standing) and saw the crowd of faces beneath me
+looking hard at me, for a moment I was shy, but that didn't last. They
+all cheered me, so I recovered myself and made my statement, I think in
+a clear voice. W. jibed at me well afterward when I told him. I made a
+tour of the bazaar, buying something at each stall, Lecomte bringing up
+the rear, carrying a large doll. Do you remember what Lasteyrie used to
+say when he was W.'s Chef de Cabinet at l'Instruction Publique--that one
+of his principal functions was to accompany Madame Waddington to all the
+"Ventes de Charité" carrying a "paquet de chemises de femme," which
+means that I get so tired of all the fancy boxes, and pin-cushions, and
+screens I accumulate at the various sales that I finally asked for
+"layettes" and "vêtements de pauvres." Of course I can never have too
+many in the country. I was amused to hear one of my friends here who
+collects for the numerous "guilds" dilate upon the _smallness_ of the
+objects sent her. She says she receives dresses and "brassières" (a sort
+of body with sleeves) that would go on _no_ child of any age that she
+has ever seen. It is rather my own experience--people usually give me
+very minute garments, also in the most delicate colours, and my children
+work in the fields and at the "tourbières."
+
+After we had visited all the stalls we had tea (not in a private room)
+at a round table at one end of the hall near the buffet. M. Dupoutet de
+la Harpe, the Protestant pasteur who got up the bazaar, explaining that
+the people would so like to see us. I am always very dressy on those
+occasions, so I was dressed in black satin with a great deal of jet, and
+light blue feathers in my bonnet. I had just time to get home, have some
+tea, and see that my "orgue Mustel" had arrived and was properly placed
+and tuned to go with the piano, and to assist at a small rehearsal with
+M. Guillemain (organist at La Trinité in Paris), for whom I am having a
+dinner to-night, Mérindol, and Miss Stuart, an American girl who has a
+fine voice. The "orgue Mustel" is small and looks like a harmonium, but
+it has wonderful tones, particularly when played by a master hand like
+Guillemain's.
+
+My dinner interested _me_ very much--I hope the guests had the same
+impression. I called it my "dinner of organists," and I tried to get as
+many of the great English organists as possible, but only two came (the
+notice was short), Dr. Stainer of St. Paul's and Dr. Bridge of
+Westminster Abbey. Both have splendid instruments, and it is a great
+pleasure to stay sometimes after a week-day service and hear a fugue
+rolling through those great vaulted aisles. I had only asked musical
+people, and warned them that it was _serious_. We were 24 at dinner, and
+about 100 in the evening. The music was in the ballroom and the organ
+sounded very well, quite a volume of sound. Guillemain played, of
+course, beautifully and made it give all it could. The duos, organ and
+piano, were charming. Miss Stuart sang very well. I found Dr. Bridge
+most sympathetic. He and Florence Williams made great friends, and he
+promised to play her a gavotte whenever she likes if she would dance. I
+think you would have liked the evening--it wasn't banal. Staal was
+sympathetic and interested, and asked me what was the next original
+entertainment I was contemplating.
+
+    Wednesday, 31st.
+
+We have rather a worrying letter from Henrietta this morning saying
+their house in Paris was watched by the police, having been threatened
+by the dynamiters on account of a judge who lives in the house. All the
+locataires are leaving, and she is bothered, and wants to know what she
+must do with Francis (who always goes to her Thursday and Sunday). I
+want W. to write to the Préfet de Police to ask for an extra man, but he
+doesn't seem to attach importance to it--says no harm ever comes when a
+thing is announced beforehand. I can't help feeling uncomfortable.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S_.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    April 3, 1892.
+
+It is rather nice to-day. After breakfast we drove down to Battersea
+Park, not a very fashionable resort, and walked about along the river,
+which is always alive--boats, barges, steamers, children in battered old
+scows that look as if they would break in two on the smallest
+provocation, and loungers of all kinds, some fishing, most doing nothing
+and keeping up a running fire of chaff and criticisms. The river life
+plays a great part in London--the Thames is such a thoroughfare all
+about London, and a beautiful pleasure ground higher up by Maidenhead,
+Clieveden, etc. We dined this evening at Lady Mary Lloyd's. She sang
+very well after dinner, and we went later to Lady Ashburton's, who has a
+beautiful house crammed with pictures and curios of all kinds. She had a
+concert of "old music" with old instruments--spinet, viola, viol
+d'amour, etc. It was interesting in its way as a souvenir, but sounded
+weak and _tinkly_. In these days of great orchestras no one would listen
+to it.
+
+    Easter Tuesday, April 19, 1892.
+
+I am delighted to have Henrietta and Francis, the boy's first holidays
+since he has been in Paris, and he is enjoying himself extremely. He
+rides with his father every morning, and goes about all day with his
+friends. We are busy getting up a "toy symphony"--Mlle. Levisohn,
+Francis's piano mistress, organises it. Francis has the piano, Comte
+Vinci, our Roman friend (who plays extremely well), is first violin; a
+little boy, a friend of Mlle. Levisohn's, the 2nd, and the minor
+instruments are distributed among all the children, Edwardes, Lawrence,
+Billes, Deichmann, etc. We gave young Bille, son of the Danish Minister,
+the drum--but the unfortunate boy could do nothing with it, and his
+mother said he must have some lessons. I applied to Pontavice (our
+Military Attaché), who said he was sure one of his friends, an officer
+in the Guards, would arrange it for me, so accordingly there appeared
+one morning a gentleman (Mr. Lloyd, I think) who said his friend, Comte
+de Pontavice, had told him that I wished to have some lessons on the
+drum, and that the drum-major of the regiment was quite at my service. I
+hastily explained that the lessons were not for me, but for a young
+friend who was to play that instrument in a toy symphony. He didn't seem
+at all surprised at my wishing to learn to play the drum, and yet I
+can't help thinking that he hadn't often been applied to for lessons on
+the drum for an Ambassadress. He promised to send his man to the Danish
+Legation, and Mdme. de Bille told me that all the household was upset,
+and the maids distracted by the magnificent drum-major who came three or
+four times, and retired to a sort of basement, where he and the boy
+rattled away on the drum. If I had ever imagined what an undertaking it
+was, I never should have agreed to the performance. The principal
+instruments, piano and violins, were all right, but all the small ones,
+quails, nightingales, and cuckoos (oh, the cuckoos!) were something
+awful. The children distracted (sometimes they had 25 measures to
+count), the mammas and governesses equally so, and the impartial
+assistants (who had no children taking part) remarking to me with
+absolute frankness that it was the most awful noise they had ever heard.
+Comte Vinci, first violin, was a tower of strength, and kept them all in
+order. It is awfully good of him to come and play with all those
+children.
+
+    Friday, April 22, 1892.
+
+I will write you about the performance at once, as I am too tired to do
+anything else, and have dined quietly at home. We had a last répétition
+this morning--Mlle. Levisohn directing from a small platform covered
+with red cloth. For the first time I thought it would go--really almost
+all the instruments were in tune and in time. Francis had been giving
+private rehearsals all the morning to Wilhelm Deichmann (trumpet) and
+the child, I forget which one, that had the triangle. The performance
+began at 4, and the orchestra was most effective. All the young ladies
+were in white and the men in dress clothes and white boutonnières. It
+was killing to see all eyes fixed upon Mlle. Levisohn as she stood on
+her platform with her baton raised. It really went extremely well.
+Pfeffer happened in, and said he had never heard the Romberg Symphony
+better given. After the music was over Francis and Hilda Deichmann
+played a little comedy, "La Souris," really very well--Mdme. Thénard had
+coached them both. They weren't at all shy, and looked funny perched on
+chairs, standing, afraid of an imaginary mouse. They wound up with a
+dance, Gevers leading a most spirited cotillon. Francis danced with
+Nannie, who looked very pretty. He was very proud of his American
+cousin. Mlle. Levisohn had many compliments, and I think she was
+pleased. She certainly took no end of trouble.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Thursday, April 28th.
+
+I had a nice ride this morning with Pontavice. W. and Francis went off
+on Monday--W. to Laon and Francis to school. Last night Henrietta and I
+went to the Italian Embassy, where there was a contract party for
+Tornielli's niece, who is to marry the Marquis Paulucci, one of the
+secretaries. The fiancée looked charming in pink satin, with a very
+pretty diamond tiara that her uncle had given her. There were a great
+many people. I had the Camerons with me--Nannie looking very pretty and
+chic in red satin with gold wings in her hair. I told her the dress was
+much too old and heavy for her, she should have been in white tulle,
+with nothing in her hair, but she says all the American girls wear
+satin. The Tornielli entertainments are always handsome; their full
+dress livery red is so effective. Henrietta and I have been driving
+about shopping. I never go near a shop alone, but Mrs. Edwardes told us
+there were wonderful "occasions" for silks at Marshall & Snelgrove's. We
+did pick up several things not dear. The English shops are not at all
+like the French ones.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #French Embassy, London#,
+    May 1, 1892.
+
+It is very cold to-day, and I think generally is on the 1st of May. One
+can't imagine a Queen of the May, crowned with flowers, dancing around a
+May-Pole. We are rather shivering, with a good fire in the room. It is
+true that we have been sitting for some time at the window looking at
+the crowds of people pouring into the Park for their great demonstration
+(anti-capitalist). It seems to be all going quite quietly--there are
+processions, and banners, and brass bands (such horrors), the usual
+thing, and I am sure there will be no row and that nothing will
+happen--nothing ever does happen in England.
+
+The Salvation Army are also holding their service in the Park, so near
+that we can almost hear the hymns. There are always soldiers hovering
+near when they have their service; I wonder if it does any good. When we
+were at Dover last year I went quite often to their service--they had
+one almost every afternoon, late, on the beach. It was a curious sight,
+such a motley crowd, rugged old fishermen, boys (half water rats),
+women, children, and occasionally a well-dressed, prosperous small
+tradesman, often soldiers--some lounging on the outskirts of the little
+circle, some sitting on boats, some reverent, some merely curious, but
+all joining in the hymns. I must say it interested me very much; not the
+sermon, nor the preachers as a general thing, but the little earnest
+group gathered on the sands with the swash of the waves for an
+accompaniment, and the red coats of the soldiers making a patch of
+colour. Some of the women looked pretty even in their regulation
+poke-bonnets.
+
+    #French Embassy, London#,
+    May 8th.
+
+It is a beautiful, fine day. I did not perform the Drawing-room, but
+walked about in the crowd with Pontavice, which was decidedly amusing.
+We saw a good many people we knew in the carriages and talked to some of
+them. Very tired they looked, having been for hours in the string. I
+wanted too to see some of the handsome English turn-outs, as when we go
+ourselves we hardly see anything but colleagues. The policeman, who knew
+us, let us stand where we liked--I told him to stop the French
+Ambassador's carriage when it came out. He did, and I jumped in, much to
+the astonishment of the crowd. We had a pleasant dinner at Lady
+Delamere's. About the middle the electric light went out and we sat for
+a few minutes in perfect darkness, except for a succession of matches
+that Lord Wimborne, who was next to me, lit. The servants lost their
+heads, and didn't think at first of lighting candles which were on the
+table. It only lasted those few minutes. Of course such accidents will
+happen perpetually until the system is perfected and universally
+applied.
+
+    Saturday, May 20th.
+
+We had a pleasant dinner to-night at Lord Tweedmouth's and I went
+afterward to a very handsome ball at the Burtons' with Nannie and
+Pontavice. They have Chesterfield House--one of the best London
+houses--flowers and electric light everywhere, and such splendid
+pictures. All the smart women in London were there, and all with their
+tiaras, except one, who explained to me that tiaras should only be worn
+at Embassies, or when one was invited to meet Royalties, "which of
+course you understand, as you haven't put yours on"--so I didn't tell
+the reason, which was that I had forgotten mine, I so rarely wear
+anything in my hair, and a tiara is heavy; also I have to be
+"recoiffée," which I hate. My hair is done in the morning, and walks or
+rides all day, and is merely pulled out a little at night.
+
+    Saturday, May 21, 1892.
+
+We dined to-night at the Trevelyans, all Conservatives. The Stanleys
+(African Stanley) were there. He looks as hard as steel, but I suppose
+couldn't do what he has done if he were not. Many say he wants to be an
+M.P. and is sure of his election. His wife can help him enormously. It
+is so curious to me to see all the women occupying themselves so
+energetically with politics. They go about the country canvassing for
+their husbands; wear the colours of the party; and have affiches
+sometimes in their windows. I saw one well-known political woman in
+London who had large bills posted on her window, "Vote for Lord R." We
+should be hooted in France if we did that sort of thing. My husband has
+been candidate very often, for many offices, but I have scarcely seen
+his name at the bottom of a circular and never heard him address a
+public meeting of any kind--in fact, have never been in the country when
+the elections were going on. It is rather curious, as women have such a
+strong position in France--a mère de famille, and above all a
+grandmother, is somebody. A clever, strong-minded grandmother is a power
+in her family and immediate circle.
+
+    #French Embassy, London#,
+    Wednesday, June 1, 1892.
+
+We had a funny experience to-night. We had been engaged for some time to
+dine with the Gladstones, to meet the Archbishop of Canterbury and Mrs.
+Benson. Mrs. Gladstone wrote to me yesterday, asking me to come
+punctually at 7.45, as the Archbishop didn't like late hours (he is
+rather a delicate man) and had asked to dine early. We made a great
+effort to get there in time--and _did_; so did everybody else--except
+the Bensons. We waited one hour--then went to dinner (they had sent a
+messenger to Lambeth and the answer came back that the Archbishop and
+Mrs. Benson had started _hours_ ago. Everyone was worried and feared
+there must have been an accident. At 9.30 o'clock, when dinner was
+practically over (we had got to the jellies and ices), a message was
+brought to Mr. Gladstone. He left the room and reappeared with the
+Bensons. The explanation was that Mrs. Gladstone had written her
+invitation from Dollis Hill, a place belonging to Lord Aberdeen, some
+miles out of London. They often stay there, so the Archbishop naturally
+imagined he was to dine there, and they had been driving about in the
+country. The poor old lady was dreadfully put out--"The Archbishop might
+have known that we were in London." Of course the dinner was all brought
+back and our evening was long. However, we managed to go for a moment to
+the Foreign Office. I said to Lady Salisbury I hoped it wasn't the last
+time we were supping with her at the Foreign Office (everyone says the
+Liberals are coming in again). "Will you think me very rude if I say I
+hope so, though of course I shall always want to see my friends in
+Arlington Street" (their private residence). I think she and Lord
+Salisbury are both tired and will be glad to have a rest, not that they
+will _socially_, for they are always receiving, both in London and at
+Hatfield. We got home fairly early, though the streets were crowded,
+Piccadilly something awful. It is a regular London night--carriages
+rolling in every direction, and all the world dining, dancing, supping.
+W. was rather funny over the dinner and the long wait, but said that if
+he had been in Benson's place he would have gone straight home from
+Dollis Hill, and had a cup of tea in his library.
+
+    Thursday, July 2, 1892.
+
+We had a small luncheon party this morning to hear the band of the Garde
+Républicaine, who have come over from Paris for a few days to the
+Exhibition. They play magnificently--we have been to hear them once or
+twice and I assure you when they play the "Marseillaise" it makes one's
+pulses leap. We had the Duke of Cambridge, Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar,
+Staals, Coventrys, etc. They played on the terrace--we had draped the
+balcony with red stuffs, and had some flowers and plants and about 70
+chairs on the terrace. The Duke talked a great deal. As soon as luncheon
+was over he went straight to the library, which opens on the terrace. We
+presented the Chef-de-Musique, and they played at once a few bars of
+"God Save the Queen"; then the "Marseillaise," everyone standing.
+Someone said to the Duke, "It is very fine, but not an anthem like our
+'God Save the Queen.'" "Non," he answered, "mais c'est un magnifique
+chant de guerre." They played for about an hour, people coming and going
+and standing about on the terrace. Some of our friends passing couldn't
+imagine what was going on--there was quite a crowd collected in the Park
+listening. My dress hadn't come from Paris, so I wore white, trimmed
+with Valenciennes; I thought a little of wearing a tiny tricolour bow,
+but didn't after all. One of the prettiest women there was Mrs. Astor,
+in black, with a big black picture hat.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Walmer Castle#,
+    July 17, 1892.
+
+We came down here yesterday and hoped (at least I did) to have a lovely
+day on the water. Lord Dufferin is a great yachtsman and cruises all
+about in his own little boat. At the present moment it is pouring--I can
+hardly see the sea--every now and then comes a partial break and I get a
+glimpse of a great grey expanse of water. We got down for dinner last
+night; a small party, as there are not many bedrooms--Lord and Lady
+Wantage (he such a nice man, one of the few Englishmen who has the
+"Légion d'Honneur," which he got in the Crimean War), the Marchesa Chigi
+from Rome, and various young men. The dinner was handsome--Lord Dufferin
+always a charming host--and we finished the evening in the big
+drawing-room, where I always feel as if I were in the cabin of a ship,
+it is so directly on the water. It looks exactly as it did in Lady
+Granville's time, and in fact Lady D. told me she had not changed
+anything. When I went to the drawing-room this morning I found the three
+ladies talking and trying to persuade themselves that it would clear
+after lunch. I said I did not mind weather and could not stay in the
+house all day, so we agreed to equip ourselves suitably and go for a
+walk after lunch. In the meantime Lady D. took me over the house--we
+went to see Wellington's room (where he died). His little camp-bed is
+still there, and some interesting relics, bits of uniform, and one or
+two letters framed and hung upon the wall. The room is small, in one of
+the towers, nothing magnificent or ducal about it. In fact the whole
+house is simple and not large, one good drawing-room, looking straight
+out to sea, so that sitting inside you see the big ships pass apparently
+close under the windows--a fair dining-room, no library or
+billiard-room, and a few bedrooms--an ideal place for a _water_ life.
+The moat has been changed into a garden and there is a tennis-court
+somewhere, though I didn't exactly make out where. We went for a walk
+along the sea wall with waterproofs and umbrellas, and I wondered if we
+should be blown over into the sea, the wind came in such violent gusts
+sometimes. It seems a child and a perambulator were blown off the other
+day, and strange to say nothing was hurt, neither child nor
+perambulator--only the nurse had hysterics. We walked to Deal and paid
+Lady Herschell a visit. I rather demurred at going in, as my hair was
+decidedly ruffled and I was very wet, but they all wanted to and I
+didn't look any worse than any of the others. The Castle is fine,
+interesting--not so large as Walmer, but with always the same beautiful
+situation close to the sea. It is one of the Cinque Ports, and Lord
+Sydney had it as long as he lived. The Herschells walked back with us,
+and coming home was pleasanter, as the rain had stopped and the wind
+diminished a little. I came up after tea, as I was a little tired and
+thought I would take advantage of a quiet moment to write to you. I will
+finish to-night, as we have come upstairs early. We had rather an
+amusing evening. The young people proposed playing "Historical
+Portraits," and insisted upon our all taking part. I protested
+vehemently, as I never have drawn anything in my life. I remember the
+drawing class years ago at Mrs. Ward's, when we all copied a Greek girl
+with an amphora on her head, and the tears I shed over my performance.
+The amphora (that might have been anything) was crooked and toppling
+over, and all her arms and legs were of different lengths. Even the
+drawing master was obliged to say I had no facility with my pencil. The
+game is really an undertaking. Everyone is given paper and pencils and
+you have 5 minutes by the watch to draw a historical portrait or
+portraits. My neighbour, one of the sons, was doing something most
+elaborate--a quantity of figures--my other neighbour, about my calibre,
+looked helpless, but said she must do something. What do you think she
+did? "The House that Jack Built," an infantine production with 4 lines
+and a chimney, the sort of thing that we all have done as children. That
+gave me courage, particularly as she had played the game before, and
+knew what could be received, so I drew the "Man in the Moon." Can't you
+see it--a large, round O with dots for eyes, nose, and mouth. Some of
+the drawings were really very clever--the "Field of the Cloth of Gold"
+with a great many figures, and Raleigh and his cloak before Elizabeth;
+Queen Elizabeth with a chignon and a short bicycle skirt. We amused
+ourselves very much. We leave to-morrow morning, W. by the first train,
+as he had an early rendezvous in London. I shall go a little later with
+the Wantages.
+
+    #London#,
+    Friday, July 22, 1892.
+
+W. and I drove out to Lyon House this afternoon to a garden party at the
+Duke of Northumberland's. It is a fine old place, about an hour's drive
+from London, with big iron gates, with the Percy lion with its tail
+straight out on top. The Duke did not appear--his daughter-in-law,
+Countess Percy (who is a daughter of the Duke of Argyll) did the
+honours. She showed us the great corridor and large drawing-room with a
+fine Adam's ceiling, and then we went out into the garden, where there
+were quantities of tents, carpets, tea-tables--and half London. Everyone
+was talking elections. I sympathised with Philip Stanhope, who has been
+beaten, and said, "Why didn't you spend more money while you were about
+it?" He was not in the least outraged at such a question, and replied
+promptly, "I should have certainly, if I hadn't been so sure of being
+named." They say a great deal of money has been spent this time.
+
+    #London#, July 27th.
+
+We had our last outing for this year last night; a handsome dinner at
+Tornielli's for the Duc d'Aoste. He is a tall, good-looking young
+fellow, decidedly dashing, and inclined to amuse himself. He is a
+curious contrast to his father, whom I liked extremely, but who was cold
+and silent, looked like a Spanish grandee of the Middle Ages, or a
+soldier-monk--a very striking face and figure. Countess Somaglia (née
+Gwendoline Doria) was among the guests, with her two daughters. We
+talked a little of old days in Rome. I remember so well when she was
+married.
+
+To-morrow I shall make our paquets, and we four, Francis and I, May and
+Beatrice, leave for Bayreuth and the Tyrol by the Club train on
+Saturday. I ordered my mountain dresses at Nicoll's--two skirts to one
+jacket--a real short one faced with leather for mountaineering, and a
+longer one, shortish too, for travelling, in blue serge; a shortish blue
+linen, and an alpaca. All the personnel dine to-night for good-bye. This
+is my 9th season in London--I wonder if I shall ever see it again. I
+have a presentiment that next year we shall only go back to take leave.
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    February 1, 1893.
+
+We came over last night; a very good crossing, the shortest I ever made;
+we were just one hour on the boat. Lady Salisbury was on board, coming
+from the Riviera. We talked all the way over. She is very sorry we are
+going--says the Queen will regret M. Waddington very much; that she had
+great confidence in him, and now, at her age, rather dreads seeing
+strange faces around her. W. is very glad to get back to France--I too.
+After all, ten years is a long time to be away from one's country.
+
+    Sunday, 5th.
+
+W. and I drove out this afternoon to White Lodge to say good-bye to
+Princess Mary. As we came quite near to the house we crossed very
+quickly two gentlemen in a hansom and just recognised the Prince of
+Wales and Prince George. Everyone is saying that that marriage will be
+arranged. Princess Mary and Princess May were alone, and decidedly more
+cheerful. Princess May still in black, but with no crêpe and a little
+jet. Princess Mary was charming and friendly as she always is, and
+seemed really sorry we were going, also wanted to know who was coming in
+our place; but that I couldn't tell her. She promised to come to tea one
+afternoon at the Embassy before we went away. Various people came in to
+tea, as they always do here on Sunday afternoon, and someone said the
+marriage was certainly decided and would be announced after the 27th,
+which was to have been the wedding-day last year. They certainly looked
+much brighter and happier than I expected to see them.
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    February 13, 1893.
+
+I went this afternoon to the House of Commons to hear Mr. Gladstone make
+his great Irish speech. I had an excellent place in the front row of the
+ladies' gallery, and heard and saw everything. The House was packed,
+chairs all along the gangway--the Prince, Dukes of York and Teck in
+their places, quantities of peers and some diplomats--no Ambassadors,
+which surprised me. I know that W. always prefers reading a speech the
+next day, but I thought some of the others would be there. Mr. Gladstone
+was much cheered by both sides when he came in (a tribute to his age and
+intelligence rather than to his politics). He rose to speak at a quarter
+to 4, finishing at 5 minutes past six (two hours and 20 minutes). He was
+much quieter and less passionate than I had expected. There was no
+vehement appeal for the wrongs of Ireland. It was more an "exposé de
+motifs" than a real speech, but it was an extraordinary effort for a man
+of his age (83). His voice was so clear and strong, never faltering: a
+little weaker and lower perhaps toward the end. I suppose it is the last
+great political speech he will ever make.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    March 3, 1893.
+
+We are beginning our tournée of farewell visits, and to-day we have been
+to take leave of the Prince and Princess of Wales at Marlborough House.
+I had not seen the Princess since Prince Eddie's death. I wore blue
+velvet and my Jubilee medal. We were received at the door by all the
+household--Probyn, Lord Suffield, Stanley Clark, Lady Suffield, and Miss
+Knollys. Prince George was in the first drawing-room. The Prince and
+Princess with two daughters in the big long room. I can't say I found
+the Princess changed or grown older. She looked sad, but it was the same
+slight, youthful figure. She was still in deep plain black (woollen
+stuff) with no ornaments. She was charming, with the sweet, simple
+manner she always has. Tears came into her eyes when she said she hadn't
+seen me for so long on account of her mourning. I asked her about her
+first grandchild--Princess Louise Fife's little girl. She said she was a
+dear little thing, talked a great deal, trotted about everywhere, and
+called her "Granny." W. and the Prince talked together, but we didn't
+stay very long. I didn't say a word to the Princess about Prince Eddie
+(they told me not to), only just as we were going I said I hoped the end
+of the year would bring her happiness and blessing. She squeezed my
+hand, but her lips quivered and she couldn't speak. She has been
+unfailing to us always and said we should certainly meet again, and that
+I must always let her know when I came to England. I begin to realise
+now that we are going, with all these leave-takings. After all we have
+been here 10 years, and that is a good piece out of one's life.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    March 5, 1893.
+
+I wish you had been here yesterday to see the farewell dinner for W. at
+the Mansion House. It was a great tribute to a departing Ambassador--all
+the distinguished men in England assembled to say good-bye. The Lady
+Mayoress had asked me to dine with her and bring anyone I wanted, so I
+took Hilda and Mdme. de la Villestreux. Hilda and I started together a
+little before 7. As we drew near the Mansion House there was quite a
+crowd; quantities of policemen, and empty carriages driving away. We
+went in by the same entrance as the men, and then turned off sharp to
+the right and were conducted to the drawing-room of the Lady Mayoress. I
+wore black moiré with a great band of orange velvet on the corsage, and
+all the jewels I possessed--tiara, pearls, and diamond necklace and
+diamond stars and ornaments fastened on the front of the dress, as I
+knew we were to sit in the gallery after dinner to hear the speeches. We
+found Mdme. de la Villestreux already there--there were 16 women. The
+Lady Mayoress presented them all to me. They were all ex-Lady
+Mayoresses--"ladies who had passed the chair," which it seems is the
+technical term. She also gave me a splendid bouquet tied with a
+tricolour ribbon. The dinner was very good, the traditional London
+public dinner menu--turtle soup, salmon, etc. There was very handsome
+silver on the table: great massive bowls and flagons and beautiful
+flowers--very quickly served, and really very pleasant. After the first
+five minutes everyone talked. Some of the women were handsome, all well
+dressed and with quantities of diamonds. Just as we were finishing a
+servant came to summon us to the gallery. The loving cup was going round
+and the speeches were to begin. The Lady Mayoress led the way to the
+gallery in the great banqueting hall directly opposite the table
+d'honneur. It was a striking sight, particularly that table where was
+the Lord Mayor in his robes, and all the diplomatists with stars and
+broad ribbons. There was a blaze of light and at first I couldn't
+recognise anyone (we were very high), and then I saw W. standing,
+drinking out of the loving cup, with the Lord Mayor on one side and
+Rustem on the other, and gradually I made out a good many people. There
+were two long tables besides the table d'honneur, and they told me about
+300 guests. All the representative men and intelligence of England
+assembled to say God-speed to the departing Ambassador. The Speaker and
+Lord Herschell (Presidents of the two Houses) were both there, and men
+of every possible coterie from Lord Lorne to James Knowles of the
+"Nineteenth Century." As soon as the regular toasts had been drunk there
+was a pause and then came the toast of the evening with "bumpers," "The
+French Ambassador." There were roars of applause when W. got on his
+legs, and I must confess to a decided choke in my throat. W. spoke (in
+English, which they had asked him to do) very simply and very well,
+going back to his early days. When he said that he had done his best
+always to keep up good and friendly relations with England, and that he
+had had much sympathy from all sides, he was much cheered; but much more
+when he said that perhaps what had given him more friends in England
+than any of his public acts as a statesman was the fact that he had
+rowed in the University eight at Cambridge. Then there were roars of
+applause, and he heard quite distinctly the people below saying--"he is
+quite right, we always remember it." He was quite ému when he came to
+the end; his voice taking that grave tone I like so much when he said
+"good-bye." One heard every word. He was much cheered when he finished.
+The Lady Mayoress came and shook hands with me and asked me if I wasn't
+proud of my husband. Some of the speeches were charming--the Speaker's
+particularly; Lord Lorne also made a very pretty little speech, and
+Rustem (Turk), who answered the toast for the "Corps Diplomatique," made
+a very good speech. I can't remember all the names and all the speeches,
+but it was a most brilliant assembly, and as Countess Deym said to me, a
+wonderful tribute to W. As soon as the speeches were over we all went
+down to the great hall, where I had a perfect défilé of compliments and
+regrets, Lord Lorne again repeating his words "that W.'s departure was a
+national calamity." All had something friendly to say--the two Law
+Lords, Judge Bowen and Sir Francis Jeune, most sympathetic. S. too told
+me I should be much pleased--he had never seen such a demonstration in
+England for a foreigner. Of course some of the young men came in to the
+Embassy to talk the dinner over, and gave their impressions. They were
+all much pleased. W. certainly was, and said he felt quite ému when he
+saw all the faces turned to him and knew that every word he said would
+tell--also he knew quite well that his reference to the boat-race would
+appeal much more to the _general_ public than any expressions of good
+feeling toward England. He hasn't always had an easy time with his
+English name and his English education. Of course it has been very
+useful to him here, as he has been thrown with all sorts of people, and
+could understand the English point of view, but in France they were
+always afraid he was too English. I think when he has gone they will
+realise at home what good work he has done here _because_ he understands
+them.
+
+    #French Embassy, London#,
+    March 8, 1893.
+
+W. and I went together to the Mansion House, Tuesday, to pay a farewell
+visit to the Lady Mayoress, who was receiving formally with music, tea,
+and quantities of people. The Lord Mayor appeared too when he heard we
+were there, and was quite pleased when W. said how gratified and touched
+he had been by the banquet and the universal expression of regret at his
+departure. The Lord Mayor said to him, "You can't find any warmer
+friends, Ambassador, in France than those you are leaving here, but I
+quite understand that a man can't live long out of his own country." We
+had just time to get back to the Embassy, dress, and start for Windsor,
+where we dined: our last stay in the yellow rooms. The dinner was almost
+entirely Royal--the Empress Frederick, Prince and Princess Christian,
+Prince and Princess Henry of Battenberg, Duchess of Connaught, del Mazo,
+the Spanish Ambassador, I the only other lady. The cercle was not
+long--I thought the Queen looked tired. She sat down at once; said she
+wouldn't say good-bye, as she hoped to see me once more at Buckingham
+Palace. She said at her age she rather dreaded saying good-bye, also
+seeing new faces, and she was very sorry we were going. "Who comes to
+replace you?" I said I thought nothing was yet decided. I talked some
+time to the other Princesses after the Queen had congédied me. The
+Empress was as usual charming, and said, "I am afraid we sha'n't meet
+again often, Mdme. Waddington, you won't cross to Berlin, and I can't go
+to Paris, but that isn't my fault. I think we shall have to meet in
+Italy, where I first had the pleasure of seeing you." The end of the
+evening we spent as usual in the drawing-room with the "household." I
+had quite a talk with Prince Henry, who is very good-looking and
+attractive. We left the drawing-room about eleven--W. going as usual to
+smoke, and I to my rooms. I sat some time in front of the fire in the
+beautiful little yellow drawing-room wondering if I ever should see it
+again, and going back to our first Windsor visit, when all was so new
+and strange to me. I wonder where we shall be this time next year, and
+if we shall settle down easily to our quiet life in France. W. came in
+rather late from the smoking-room: he said all the men were so nice to
+him, and seemed really sorry he was going; also were very anxious to
+know if he wasn't sorry himself.
+
+This morning (Wednesday) it was beautiful. I breakfasted as usual in my
+rooms and sat some time in the deep window recess watching all the
+people coming and going. There is always so much life about Windsor when
+the Queen is there. About 10 Colonel Byng came to take us to the Chapel
+to see the sarcophagus of Prince Eddie, which is enormous and has rather
+too much colour--almost gaudy. I went with Hilda the other day to
+Gilbert's studio to see the monument he is making, and which I liked. It
+is very elaborate and complicated, but the sleeping figure good: so
+reposeful and young; the long straight limbs. One quite realised a young
+life cut short. Gilbert is clever and interesting, and begged us to
+criticise freely.
+
+We got home about 12 and I took a short turn in the Park before
+breakfast, which was full as usual when the Queen passes. She came this
+afternoon for two Drawing-rooms. I shall do my last to-morrow--I sha'n't
+go to the second.
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    March 10, 1893.
+
+I am doing all my last things. I went to the Drawing-room yesterday (our
+last). Countess Spencer presented the ladies, and looked very stately
+and handsome in black, with splendid jewels. The Queen didn't stay very
+long, but looked less tired, I thought, than the other night at Windsor.
+I said good-bye to a great many people whom I sha'n't see again. At this
+season plenty of people are still in the country, and only come up for a
+day or two for Drawing-rooms, theatres, etc. Teesdale and I had quiet an
+affectionate parting. For so long now we have made our entrée together
+into the Throne Room: he holding my hand and both of us making a deep
+bow and curtsey at the door, that we have become quite like puppets.
+
+This afternoon I have had my farewell audience from the Queen at
+Buckingham Palace at 4 o'clock. I wore as usual the blue velvet, which
+will walk about alone soon, as it has done all the ceremonies lately; my
+pearls, and a crême velvet bonnet with light blue feathers. I went in
+the ordinary open carriage (not gala). The gala carriage with the
+powdered wigs, big footmen, canes, etc., went out yesterday for the last
+time to the Drawing-room. I had some difficulty in getting into the
+court-yard, which was filled with carriages, luggage-vans, soldiers,
+etc., as the Queen was leaving this afternoon for Windsor. I was sent
+from one entrance to another, in spite of the tricolour cockade, and
+finally drew up at a side-door (where a shabby little victoria was
+standing). A man in ordinary black livery appeared, and after a short
+parley (in which I intervened myself, saying that I was the French
+Ambassadress and had an audience with the Queen) he showed me into a
+room on the ground floor. I waited about 15 minutes (it was 5 minutes to
+4 when I arrived) and then Lady Southampton, Lady in Waiting, appeared,
+with many apologies for being late--she didn't think I would come so
+soon (and I was a little afraid of being late, they kept me so long in
+the court-yard). We went upstairs to a small drawing-room looking out on
+the court-yard, and in about 10 minutes the same servant in black
+appeared, saying, "The Queen is ready to receive the French
+Ambassadress." Lady Southampton said she couldn't come, as the Queen
+wished to see me alone, so I followed the servant down a long
+corridor--he stopped at a door, knocked, a voice said "come in," and I
+found myself in the Royal presence. It was a small, ordinary room,
+rather like a sort of waiting-room, no traces of habitation, nothing
+pretty or interesting. The Queen was standing, very simply dressed in
+black (her travelling dress she said, she was starting at once for
+Windsor) before a writing-table which was in the middle of the room,
+covered with books and papers. She was most kind, made me sit down on
+the sofa next to her, and said she was afraid she had kept me waiting,
+but that she had been kept by a visit from Mr. Gladstone--she then
+paused a moment, so I made a perfectly banal remark, "what a wonderful
+man, such an extraordinary intelligence," to which she replied, "He is
+very deaf." She expressed great regret at our departure, and hoped we
+were sorry to leave England and all our friends, but after all Paris was
+not very far off, and she hoped she should see me again. She was sure M.
+Waddington would find plenty to do when he got back--would he continue
+his literary work? I said he would certainly have plenty to do, as he
+was Senator and Membre de l'Institut, but that we should both miss the
+Embassy life and the varied interests it brought. She repeated that she
+hoped to see me again, so I asked if ever I came back to England might I
+write to one of her ladies, and ask if I could be received. "Pray do,
+and I shall not say good-bye, but au revoir." We talked about 15 minutes
+about all sorts of things--some of our colleagues--our successor, etc.
+She asked again who was coming to London, and said, "My last two
+Ambassadors to France were ex-Viceroys." It seemed to me that she said
+it on purpose, and that she wanted France to send one of her best men to
+St. James's. I repeated the remark to my husband, and the chancellerie.
+It is quite true. The present British Ambassador, Lord Dufferin, is
+certainly the first diplomatist they have. He has had every
+distinguished post England can offer--Ambassador to St. Petersburg and
+Rome, Governor of Canada, and Viceroy of India, and has played a great
+part. His predecessor, Lord Lytton, was also Viceroy of India, and very
+distinguished, though in a different way from Lord Dufferin. I rather
+fancy that Montebello would be an acceptable appointment. He knows
+English well, has English relations, and I should think would like the
+post, but I have really no idea. Some of the papers say that Ribot wants
+the place, but I think he prefers home politics and would not care to
+leave France; however, I could not tell the Queen anything definite. She
+kissed me at parting, and gave me her photograph, signed, in a handsome
+silver frame--then half turned her back, moving to a door on the other
+side of the room, so that I could get out easily and not altogether à
+reculons, which would have been awkward to open the door. I tucked my
+parcel under my arm, opened the door myself (a thing I don't often do in
+these days, except my bedroom door) and found myself again in the long
+corridor. My audience was over, and I daresay I shall never see the
+Queen again. She was unfailing to us both from the first moment, always
+welcomed us with the same smile, was always inclined to talk about
+anything and to understand and smooth over any little difficulty or
+misunderstanding. I think she is a wonderful woman and a wonderful
+Queen. In her long life she must have had many difficult questions and
+responsibilities, and certainly England has not suffered under her rule.
+I met Lady S. in the corridor, who came downstairs with me, and said she
+was quite sure the Queen meant it when she said she would like to see me
+again, that she _never_ said anything she didn't mean.
+
+I found Hilda and one or two friends when I got home who told me that
+the English ladies, headed by Ladies Salisbury and Spencer, representing
+the two parties, Conservative and Liberal, were going to give me a
+souvenir (in memory of my ten years in London), a jewel of some kind. I
+was rather pleased. The last days of adieux are rather melancholy. I
+shall be glad when they are over. I forgot to say that Wednesday I had a
+message about 3 o'clock from the Princess Beatrice, saying she and
+Prince Henry of Battenberg would come about 5 and ask me for a cup of
+tea. The notice was so short that I hadn't time to ask anyone except
+Hilda, who happened in, and some of the secretaries. They came alone and
+were most friendly--said they had not given me any more time on purpose,
+as they didn't want a party, but merely to see us. They were as easy and
+pleasant as possible, she talking much more than she ever does in the
+grand monde. I told her I hoped she would let me know if ever she came
+to Paris. She said. "Oh, yes--and we will do a lively play together."
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Tuesday, March 14, 1893.
+
+I went this afternoon with Mdme. de la Villestreux to the French bazaar
+at Kensington Town Hall to receive Princess Mary, who opened it (and
+very much better than I did the day I performed the same thing). Mdme.
+de Bylandt, de Bille, Mdme. du Poutel de la Harpe were all there waiting
+at the foot of the stairs. Princess Mary was easy and charming, and I
+really think was not bored. She had all the ladies presented to her,
+talked to them all, knew apparently all their relations, young and old,
+complimented them on the arrangement of their stalls, said the various
+objects made and presented by the Ladies' Art Association were very
+artistic and useful (I wish you could have seen them--_our_ pincushions
+at the Vente des Diaconnesses were things of beauty next to them), took
+her tea, said the cake was so good, and delighted everybody. When I see
+how easy it is for Royalties to win golden opinions with a few gracious
+words and a smile, I wonder at the stiff, stand-off manner some of them
+adopt. Princess May looked very slight and pretty, and is always well
+dressed. I again wore the blue velvet, which will fall off me soon, but
+this time I changed the bonnet and wore a black jet one with a red rose,
+and it wasn't very pretty.
+
+    March 16, 1893.
+
+We had a last musical afternoon to-day at Marie Humlicher's: 8 hands,
+two pianos, she directing and the performers being Ctesse. de Bylandt,
+Mlle. de Staal, Hilda and I. We played Mozart and Schumann, really very
+well. Mlle. Humlicher has a nice big room over a coutourière on Fulham
+Road. She always gives us tea after the music, which is generally
+brought up by a tidy little English maid with her cap and apron. She was
+astounded this afternoon when the tea was brought in by a most elegant
+young person, dressed in the latest fashion, and attended by a second,
+also most stylish--however, as the tea was all right she did not say
+anything; neither did I, but I waited a moment after the other ladies
+had gone and she had a mysterious conversation on the stairs and came in
+highly amused. It seems the two elegant ladies were the dressmaker and
+her assistant. When they saw all these ambassadorial equipages at their
+door--enormous powdered footmen, wigs, cockades, etc., also Hilda's
+beautiful carriage (Deichmann has splendid horses always and everything
+perfectly well turned out), their curiosity got the better of them and
+they felt they _must_ see the swells; so they interviewed the maid,
+installed her in their rooms to attend to any customer who might come,
+got into their swell garments, and brought up the tea. Wasn't it funny?
+Luckily we were all rather elegant. I had been paying some farewell
+visits, and it so happened that we were all up to the mark. I have
+sometimes gone to Mlle. Humlicher's on foot in a cloth dress, as it is
+not far from the Embassy. I am sorry to have done with those
+afternoons--Mlle. Humlicher plays beautifully--she is a pupil of
+Rubinstein's and has a real artistic nature.
+
+    Friday, March 17th.
+
+I had a line from Lady Salisbury yesterday, asking if to-day at 5 would
+suit me to receive the ladies and my present. I accepted of course,
+asking her about how many would come. She answered, between 50 and 60,
+she thought. As the moment drew near I got rather nervous, for W. said
+they would certainly make me a little speech and that I would have to
+reply, and he suggested thinking it over; but that I refused and said I
+must trust to the inspiration of the moment. I wore my purple satin. The
+ladies arrived very punctually. There were one or two men, all the
+personnel, including W., and one or two of my friends, Sir George
+Arthur, Gevers, etc. Lady Salisbury asked me where I would stand, so I
+put myself in the middle of the big drawing-room, under the chandelier.
+Lady Salisbury was spokeswoman, flanked on one side by Lady Spencer, the
+other by Mrs. Gladstone; all the other ladies, including Ladies
+Londonderry, Cadogan, Shrewsbury, Harcourt, etc., forming a circle round
+me. Lady Salisbury made a very pretty little speech, beginning--"Madame
+Waddington, Ambassadress," and saying they hoped I would sometimes think
+of England and my English friends, that I had been there so long that I
+seemed one of themselves, etc., and then handed me a blue velvet étui. I
+don't know exactly what I replied (I was rather émue and W. just
+opposite to me was looking at me hard), but evidently only a few words,
+to say that the ten years I had spent in London had been very happy
+ones, that France wasn't very far away, and that I hoped to come back
+often--but I think they understood that I was pleased and grateful for
+the present, and above all with the feeling that prompted it. The jewel
+is very handsome, a circle of large, beautiful white diamonds with a
+large pearl in the centre and another as pendant. It was passed around
+the company and they all found it very handsome. We had tea in the blue
+room, and I talked to them all and said what was perfectly true, that
+they had been ten perfectly happy years we had spent in London, and ten
+years is a good piece out of one's life. They left me a book with the
+names of all the "signataires." W. was much pleased, and I fancy it was
+rather an unusual demonstration. One of these days, when Francis's wife
+wears it, it will be a historic jewel. After all the company had gone
+the secretaries stayed on a little while. I think they are all sorry we
+are going, and they certainly regret W. as a chief. They all say he is
+so absolutely just.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Monday, March 27, 1893.
+
+We walked about in the Row this morning. It was cold and raw, not many
+people. We dined at the Italian Embassy in the evening with Tornielli.
+The Comtesse is at Naples with her niece, the young Marquise Paulucci,
+who has just had a fine boy. The dinner was small, mostly colleagues. We
+sat after dinner in the red drawing-room, which is very picturesque--a
+fine old carved chimney, enormous, and beautiful old red silk hangings
+just faded enough to give an old-world look. He has brought quantities
+of things from his palace in Italy. Lincoln was there. He knows who his
+successor is--Mr. Bayard. We don't know ours.
+
+    #Albert Gate,#
+    March 29, 1893.
+
+Princess Mary and Princess May had promised to come once to tea before I
+left and they named to-day. I asked very few people--Duchess of St.
+Albans, Ladies Arran, Randolph Churchill, Hilda, and some men, Deym,
+Tornielli, Mensdorff, George Arthur, etc. Lady Randolph is very musical,
+plays extremely well and is very kind to all the artists. I asked Mlle.
+Jansen (Swedish), who sang quite beautifully--a fine voice, such a ring
+in it. She is going to America, and I am sure she will have a great
+success. Both Princesses were as cordial and nice as possible, said it
+would seem strange not to see me about everywhere any more. "Of course
+you will come back to London," Princess Mary said; "but it can never be
+the same thing--you will be a visitor; now you are living your life with
+us, and London is your home." Princess May looked very pretty, and so
+bright that I fancy her engagement is settled--everyone seems to think
+so. I didn't say anything to her, but when I parted from Princess Mary
+at the foot of the stairs I couldn't help saying that I heard that very
+soon all her friends would be able to congratulate her, and that as I
+was going I would like to think that very happy days were before her.
+She said "I hope so--I think so," and kissed me. At the door she turned
+and said, "I wonder when I shall have tea and music again in these
+rooms. I shall always think with pleasure of the French Embassy." We had
+a farewell dinner at our cousin's, Mrs. Mostyn's. Lord Herschell was on
+one side of me and talked a great deal about the banquet at the Mansion
+House. He said W.'s English was so good, too classical if anything; said
+he would like very much to hear him speak in French and at the Tribune.
+He couldn't imagine such a quiet speech and manner in the fiery French
+Chamber. I told him the Senate was much more sedate than the Chamber
+(consequently much less amusing) and that he would often hear a
+perfectly quiet academic speech there.
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    Good Friday, March 31, 1893.
+
+We went to the afternoon service at St. Paul's, where the anthem was
+beautiful. There were a great many people, a great many men following
+the service, and a great many also walking about looking at the tombs
+and tablets.
+
+We really have not a moment these last days. I shall go over a little
+before W., about the 12th of next month. We have had all sorts of
+leave-takings. The Empress Frederick received us the other day--always
+charming and interesting, but still talking of her visit to Paris, which
+she can't get over. She said to me, "I would have liked so much to see
+you in Paris, in your own house. M. Waddington promised me a dinner with
+all your clever men." "I should have been much pleased and honoured,
+Majesté; perhaps a little later he may have that pleasure--but I'm
+afraid----"
+
+We had all a pleasant visit to Princess Louise at Kensington, who said
+she would certainly let us know when she came to Paris--I think she
+often comes. We went to White Lodge, of course, where they all look so
+happy I can't help thinking that the marriage is arranged. We also went,
+for a farewell cup of tea, to Alma Tadema, who receives once a week in
+his beautiful studio. He is going to send me an engraving of one of his
+lovely Greek pictures. His atelier is most picturesque and full of
+interesting things. He has a set of panels painted by all his artist
+friends which are gems. He is very attractive himself--so simple. There
+were a good many people there.
+
+We had a dinner and party (music) last week at Lady Wimborne's. Their
+entertainments are always successful. The house (Hamilton House) is one
+of the best in London. Lord B., a great friend of W.'s, took me to get
+an ice at the buffet, and was deploring W.'s departure. "Such a pity
+that Waddington had gone back to France after graduating so brilliantly
+at Cambridge. He would certainly have made the same career in England,
+and would have been Premier in England, so much better than being
+Premier in France"--a truly British sentiment (what makes their
+strength, perhaps), but naif.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Easter Sunday, April 2, 1893.
+
+My last Easter in London, a beautiful bright day. Henrietta, Francis,
+and I walked down to Westminster Abbey in the morning. It was crowded,
+as it always is--Easter is such a splendid service--the fine old Easter
+hymn always the same, with the Hallelujah echoing through the vaults and
+arches. We had a small dinner in the evening--Jusserand (who had come
+back to see his friends, of whom he has thousands here), the La
+Villestreux, the personnel, and a few young people in the evening. I
+wore my jewel, which they all found very handsome.
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    April 9th.
+
+Henrietta, Francis, and I went to the Temple Church this morning. It is
+a grand old place, right in the heart of London. We were met at the door
+by one of the "benchers," who gave us very good places and took us all
+over the church and various halls after service. Francis had never been
+there and was wildly interested, particularly in the tombs of the old
+Crusaders with their crossed legs. We lunched with quite a party of
+benchers and their wives in the "parlement" room, a charming room
+looking out on the river and across a garden filled with roses, streams
+of sunlight pouring in at all the windows. They told us the War of the
+Roses, white and red, was planned in those gardens, and asked us if we
+remembered the old lines:
+
+    "If this red rose offend thy sight,
+      It in thy bosom wear;
+    'Twill blush to find itself less white
+      And turn Lancastrian there."
+
+Yesterday we had a handsome "Diner d'Adieu" at the Turkish Embassy,
+principally colleagues. Lincoln was there--he too is going, his wife
+left yesterday. They have raised the United States Legation here to an
+Embassy, and I hope they will raise the salaries. No one is more asked
+out or has a better position here than the United States Minister. I
+always remember the remark of one of our colleagues, Baron Solvyns, who
+had been long in London and knew it well. We were talking one day about
+the Corps Diplomatique, small Powers, Embassies, etc., and were
+discussing who was the most important Ambassador in London. Solvyns
+said, "There is no doubt about it, the American _Minister_ is the first
+Ambassador in London."
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    April 12, 1893.
+
+My last letter from Albert Gate, Dear. Yesterday all our small things,
+silver, house linen, etc., departed. The packing seemed well done. We
+put everything that was to go in the ballroom (little Dresden figures,
+glasses, silver ornaments), nothing packed, all spread out, on tables. A
+man came and made an inventory, packs everything in a great van that
+comes to the door and arrives at our door in the Rue Dumont d'Urville,
+where equally everything is taken out and unpacked. He says nothing will
+be broken. It is certainly a very easy way of moving, and I shall be
+anxious to see how they arrive. The Florians had their furniture taken
+over like that, and I think one table was a little démantibulée. We
+leave to-morrow; we being Henrietta and I. W. stays some little time
+still. I take over all the French servants, both coachmen, and my
+victoria and horses, as I must settle myself for the spring in the Paris
+house. W. sends over one of the secretaries, M. Lecomte, with us, and
+the colleagues are all coming to the station to say good-bye. The rooms
+look melancholy to-night, so many things gone; piano of course and all
+books and small tables, screens, etc.--all the gros mobilier belongs to
+the Embassy. We sat some time talking, just we three: W., Henrietta, and
+I, after dinner. W. has just been named one of the Directeurs du Canal
+de Suez. I think he will find plenty of occupation when he gets back.
+
+    #Paris, 31, Rue Dumont d'Urville,#
+    April 16, 1893.
+
+Here I am, Dear, back in my little salon, writing at my table in the
+corner by the window, and rather distracted by the quantities of
+carriages passing. There is so much more movement in the street than
+when we left ten years ago, and I have got accustomed to such a quiet
+bedroom and salon. All our living rooms (except the dining-room) at
+Albert Gate gave on the Park, so we never heard the rattle and noise of
+carriages over pavements, and as no cabs nor camions are allowed in the
+Park the passing never disturbed us. We came over very comfortably on
+Thursday. All our colleagues were at the station to see us off, and I
+think they are sorry to say good-bye. We found our voiture-salon filled
+with flowers. Sir George Arthur and S. came over with us. It was very
+cold and very rough. All the men disappeared at once, but Henrietta and
+I remained on deck and were quite happy, well wrapped up with rugs, and
+tarpaulins stretched in front of us to keep out the wet. Lecomte had
+arranged our lunch in the private room of the buffet at Calais (where W.
+and I always breakfasted when we came over) and it was comfortable to
+see a bright fire. I am ashamed to say that the ladies of the party eat
+a very good breakfast. The men looked rather white, and certainly were
+not good "fourchettes" at that meal. At Dover we had found Lord William
+Seymour in uniform, with his aide-de-camp, wife and daughter waiting for
+us. He took me on the boat, and to the cabin, where there were more
+flowers, and stayed until the last moment, giving the captain all manner
+of instructions for my comfort, and particularly to see that my cabin
+was warm, with plenty of rugs, etc. I never went near it. I think
+Adelaïde and Bonny had a very comfortable time there. Francis met us at
+the Gare du Nord, much pleased to have us back. We went to Henrietta's
+to dine. I was glad to come home directly after dinner and go to bed.
+Well, Dear, there is one chapter of my life closed--I wonder what the
+future reserves for us. I shall be uncomfortable for a few days until my
+van arrives. It left the same day we did, and the man said it would take
+a week to bring the things over, but I shall not expect them for ten
+days. I found quantities of cards and notes here, and Louise and
+Henrietta of course will give me dinner or anything else I want until I
+can get quite settled. Hubert got over only to-day. The sea was so rough
+he wouldn't cross on Thursday; he waited a day at Folkestone, and
+another at Boulogne, to rest the horses which had been knocked about. W.
+writes that the Embassy seems absolutely empty. Still he dines out every
+night (at the club when he hasn't an invitation) and will come over as
+soon as he can. The house looks so small after the big rooms at Albert
+Gate, and the stable and little cour minute. It sounded so familiar to
+hear the carriage coming in under the voûte, and also the street cries.
+I daresay in a few days I shall take up my ordinary Paris life, and
+London will seem a dream--like Moscow.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Bayreuth#,
+    Saturday, July 31, 1897.[12]
+
+We arrived Thursday evening from Nuremberg in a pouring rain, which
+continued all day Friday, and detestable it was--streets crowded,
+everybody's umbrella running into one and catching in your veil (really
+twice in mine), mud everywhere, carriages scarce and dear. Our rooms are
+comfortable, Mary de Bunsen got them for us, a good-sized salon (with a
+piano), three bedrooms, and two maids' rooms. We have our early
+breakfast and supper, but dine out. Our experience at the Sonne was not
+very agreeable--a long, hot dining-room, quantities of hungry people and
+no servants to speak of. I was rather interested in my neighbour, a
+long, thin American, a Western man from Iowa I think, a school-master.
+He told me he had been saving for years to get money enough "to come
+across" (as he said) and hear "Parsifal." He had taught himself German
+in the evenings when his class was finished. The man was in such a
+quiver of delighted anticipation that it was a pleasure to see him. I
+told him I was sure he would not be disappointed, as Van Dyck was to
+sing "Parsifal." There were quite a number of priests at table, and one
+heard a little French, but the talk was principally German and English.
+We got up to the theatre easily enough, as carriages were going backward
+and forward all the time. The opera, "Parsifal," was beautifully
+given--Van Dyck as good as ever. I always think he stands so wonderfully
+in that scene where he has his back to the public and is absorbed by all
+he sees. He told me it was one of his most difficult parts. We had great
+difficulty in getting our coffee between the acts, and greater still in
+finding our carriage at the end. The crowd, and scramble, and mud were
+something awful.
+
+[12] Waddington died in 1894. Hence the interruption in the series of
+Madame Waddington's letters from 1893 until 1897.
+
+    Friday, August 6th.
+
+We are leaving this afternoon, having had an enchanting week. Monday,
+Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, the whole Ring beautifully given. All the
+music is racing through my brain, from the lovely wave chorus of the
+swimming Rhine maidens to the magnificent end of the "Götterdämmerung"
+with all the different motifs worked in. They played the funeral march
+of "Siegfried" splendidly. It is a curious life one leads here. In the
+morning everybody walks about the town--the streets are narrow and it is
+amusing to be hailed from windows over small shops, grocers', bakers',
+watchmakers', by friends who are lodging there. About 3 a sort of
+restless excitement is in the air and one sees a long procession
+mounting the hill to the Opera House, everyone absorbed by the one idea.
+There are quantities of people we know. I didn't go and see Mdme. Wagner
+this time, as Henrietta and Pauline don't know her. Her evenings, the
+off night, are very interesting. One sees all the distinguished people
+of any kind at her house, all the artists, critics, etc. Of course no
+one ventures to criticise the _music_--merely the execution.
+
+    #Meingeningen, Biebrich,#
+    Sunday, August 15, 1897.
+
+I have been here two or three days and am glad to have some quiet hours
+in the garden after the fatigue and excitement of Bayreuth. Four Wagner
+operas in succession is a strain on one's brain (not that I wouldn't do
+it straight over again this week if I could, but one wants the rest
+between). The crowd at Bayreuth the day we started was something
+wonderful, as of course everyone leaves after their série--there is
+nothing to do or see in the town. At Nuremberg, too, the scramble to get
+something to eat was funny, as there were two courants, all of us
+leaving Bayreuth, and just as many more arriving to take our places.
+There is always a crowd at the Nuremberg station, though they have
+multiplied little buffets outside the regular salles d'attente with
+coffee, beer, sausages, etc. We were late all along the line, and again
+there was such a crowd at the big Frankfort station that I could not get
+my trunks in time to take the first train for Mosbach--however, I
+arrived finally and was pleased to see Heinrich's broad, good-humoured
+face, and we drove at once to the house, where Mary was waiting for me
+with supper. We talked a little, but even that took us on to 2 o'clock,
+as it was after midnight when I arrived.
+
+We have seen various people, and made expeditions to Wiesbaden. We wrote
+to the Empress Frederick's lady-in-waiting the other day (Countess
+Perponcher, whom Mary knows very well) to say that I was here near
+Cronberg, and would be so pleased if the Empress would receive me. The
+answer has just come, asking me to lunch at Cronberg on Wednesday. I am
+delighted to go--first to see the Empress, and then to see the house,
+which is filled with beautiful things. The Empress has travelled so
+much, and been so much in Italy, and has bought all sorts of treasures.
+
+    Tuesday, August 17, 1897.
+
+Last night we went to the opera at Wiesbaden. It was "Hansel and
+Gretel," beautifully given--the orchestra very good and the angel scene
+with all the angels coming down a sort of ladder and circling round the
+sleeping children quite exquisite. It was a funny contrast to the London
+and Paris Opera. Mary and I started off about 5.30 in ordinary summer
+dress--foulard and voile. We went to the great confectioner at Wiesbaden
+for our tea and cakes, and a little before 7 walked across to the Opera.
+There we took off our hats and jackets, hung them up on a little peg,
+found our seats without any trouble, and had a very pleasant evening.
+The entr'actes are much shorter than in France, so that we were out a
+little before 10. The drive home was lovely on a bright starlight summer
+night; about three-quarters of an hour. It was such an easy, independent
+way of going, without the complications of a man to go with us, servant
+to take our cloaks, etc. I often think I should like to live a little in
+Germany, there is so much that I like in the country, and life seems so
+easy, though I believe German women wouldn't say so. They all seemed
+weighed down with cares, and apparently all with very small incomes. I
+wonder if you have read Hauptmann's "Versunkene Glocke"; I am fascinated
+by it. It was a little difficult reading at first on account of the sort
+of patois, but it is a wonderful book, so weird and full of sentiment. I
+will finish my letter after our day at Cronberg.
+
+    Thursday, August 19, 1897.
+
+We had a charming day; I am so glad we went. We started a little after
+ten for Frankfort, where we had a wait of 20 minutes. I wore my black
+voile and a little black and jet toque in which I put a white aigrette,
+and white gloves, so as not to be too black. The trajet is short from
+Frankfort to Cronberg, about an hour. We found two carriages (rather
+pretty victorias in wood natural colour and cushions the same
+colour--they looked very chic and country) and tall powdered footmen in
+the black and silver Imperial livery. There were two or three people in
+the second carriage whom I didn't recognise at first, but made out when
+we arrived. Val Prinsep, the artist, and his wife, a very pretty woman,
+and a German lady, also an artist I think. The Castle is not far from
+the station, and Cronberg (the town) is rather picturesque. The house is
+large--nothing particular in the way of architecture, but stands well in
+a fair-sized park. We were received in a fine hall, with pictures,
+carvings, and plenty of old furniture. Countess Perponcher and Baron
+Reischach received us. Count Seckendorff was not there, which I
+regretted, as I like him very much and should have been glad to see him
+again. Countess Perponcher took us to a small room on the ground floor
+where we left our parasols, wraps, etc., and then we went through one or
+two handsome rooms into a large salon where the company was already
+assembled. Lady Layard and her niece were staying in the house, also
+Prince Albert Solms (our old friend) with his wife. He is very ill, poor
+fellow, and can hardly get about. Some English friends arrived from
+Hombourg--Lady Cork, Lord Algy Lennox. About 1.30 the Empress
+came--always the same charming manner, and always her sad eyes. I
+thought she looked thinner and paler perhaps, but not ill. We went
+immediately to luncheon--the Empress first, alone, all of us following.
+Baron Reischach sat opposite to her, between me and Lady Cork. The talk
+was easy, the Empress talking a great deal. Val Prinsep too did his
+share, and Lady Cork is always clever and original. After luncheon we
+went back to the big drawing-room and looked at some of the beautiful
+things. Angeli's last portrait of the Empress had just come and had been
+placed (temporarily only) in a corner where the light was not very good.
+It is a fine picture--the Empress all in black with her splendid pearl
+necklace, seated on a sort of carved throne, or high-backed chair--all
+the shading dark, the only bit of colour the yellow ribbon of the Black
+Eagle. It is a striking picture and very like her, but so inexpressibly
+sad. She called each one of us in turn to come and sit by her. She spoke
+very warmly of W. to me, and asked me if I didn't regret my London life,
+and if I did not find it very difficult to settle down in France after
+having lived ten years in London, "the great centre of the world." It is
+curious how universal that feeling is with English people (and "au
+fond," notwithstanding all the years she has lived in Germany, the
+Empress is absolutely English still in her heart). They think that life
+in England--London--spoils one for everything else. I told her I didn't
+think I was to be pitied for living in Paris--after all, my boy was a
+Frenchman and all his interests were in France. She asked about Francis,
+how old he was, and couldn't believe that I was going back to fêter his
+21 years, and thought it was fortunate for him that his early education
+had been in England.
+
+[Illustration: The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the
+Black Eagle
+The last portrait of the Empress by the artist Angeli]
+
+We talked a little about French literature--I think she reads
+everything--and she asked about Bayreuth, were there many French people
+there. I told her the Director of the Grand Opéra, among others, who
+wants to have the "Meistersinger" in France, but Mdme. Wagner is rather
+unwilling--the choruses, she thinks, are too difficult either to
+translate or to sing with the true spirit in any other language. The
+Empress said, "She is quite right; it is one of the most difficult of
+Wagner's operas, and essentially German in plot and structure. It
+scarcely bears translation in English and in French would be impossible;
+neither is the music, in my mind, at all suited to the French character.
+The mythical legend of the Cycle would appeal more to the French, I
+think, than the ordinary German life." I daresay she is right. When she
+congédied me I talked some little time to Prince Solms, Reischach, and
+others. Then it was getting time for us to go, as we had to take the
+4.30 train back to Frankfort. I was standing by the window, from which
+there is a fine open view over plain and woods, when the Empress came up
+to say good-bye. She supposed I was going back to France, where I would
+find my boy. "You are very fortunate to have him still with you; it
+gives such an interest to your life." She kissed me, and then said
+sadly, "_My_ task is done--I am quite alone." I watched her go out of
+the room, across the hall, and up the great staircase, with her long
+black dress trailing behind, alone--as she said. It must be an awful
+solitude for her--living there in her beautiful house, filled with art
+treasures of all kinds, and with friends near all summer at Hombourg,
+Wiesbaden, etc., who are only too happy to go to her--but her real life
+is over, and she is as far away from Germany and the throbbing pulse of
+the nation as if she were a cloistered nun.
+
+The Val Prinseps came away with us, and we made a bout de chemin
+together until they branched off to Hombourg. He has quite the same idea
+of the Empress; says "elle se ronge," that she had always had such
+aspirations and wanted to do so much for the intellectual life of
+Germany. Mary and I got to Frankfort in good time, and home for dinner.
+We were glad to prowl about in the garden after dinner, when it was
+deliciously cool and the air heavy almost with the scent of roses, of
+which she has quantities. We saw the Rhine and the lights of Mayence in
+the distance. I suppose this place too I shall never see again, as I
+think Mary has made up her mind to sell Meingeningen. I think she will
+settle in Ireland if she can get the old Townshend place where she was
+one summer. It is ideal, close on the sea, with a splendid park rising
+up behind the Castle, but will be a great change for her.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #South Pavilion, West Cowes#,
+    August 9, 1900.
+
+We are becoming accustomed, Dear, to the wind and rain and a general
+damp feeling. I don't think I have been really dry since we left Paris.
+I live in my serge dress and a waterproof. I should have been quite
+comfortable if I could have changed with the other one, but Bessie
+Talleyrand is disporting herself in it. When we arrived we found
+everyone in mourning for the Duke of Edinburgh, the first days not so
+marked, but since the Osborne has arrived with the Prince and Princess
+on board one sees nothing but black, and Bessie was much disgusted,
+having only blue. The steam launches and boats go all day between the
+yachts and the shore. Everyone, men and women, wears those remarkable
+yellow mackintoshes; you can't tell them apart, and the boats look as if
+they were loaded with great yellow "ballots." The two American yachts,
+Nahma, Mrs. Goelet, and Itwana, Mr. Armour, are splendid, enormous
+steamers and beautifully kept. Yesterday after lunch Bessie and I
+started in the wind and rain to drive over to Osborne and write
+ourselves down for the Queen. I am afraid I sha'n't see her, which will
+be a great disappointment to me; but the ladies here tell me she is much
+affected by the Duke of Edinburgh's death, and after all, the Prince has
+only just got back from his funeral. The drive through Cowes is not very
+interesting, through dirty, smelly little streets; but once over the
+ferry (which one crosses in a boat large enough to take the Queen's
+carriage with four horses) it is pretty enough, up a long hill with fine
+trees and a few places. We didn't see the Castle, as of course we were
+stopped at the gates, which were open, with a policeman standing just
+inside. The park looked fine, grass and flower beds beautifully kept. We
+wrote ourselves down and I left a card for the Duchess of Roxburghe, who
+is in waiting. We went for tea to the Club garden, and there I saw the
+Duchess of Roxburghe, who told me the Queen would certainly see me. We
+dined quietly at home, rather a fancy meal, but we prefer that to going
+out. There is a nice little dining-room, and Joseph waits. How he gets
+on down-stairs with the three maiden ladies who run the establishment I
+don't know. He doesn't speak or understand one word of English and has
+never been out of France before. He went nearly mad over that remarkable
+railway journey of ours across country from Eastbourne to Cowes, where
+we changed about 10 times (all the luggage naturally being transferred
+each time), lost all our connections everywhere and arrived at Cowes at
+10.30 at night, having left Eastbourne at 2. He is much impressed with
+the uncleanliness of the house, and said to me just now, "Si Madame
+voyait les torchons _sales_ dont on se sert pour essuyer les assiettes
+_propres_, Madame ne mangerait jamais à la maison."
+
+    #East Cowes#,
+    Sunday, August 12, 1900.
+
+I had two notes this morning, one from Miss Knollys saying the Princess
+would receive me, and one from Madame d'Arcos saying the Empress Eugénie
+would like us to come to tea with her on the Thistle at 5. I had rather
+hesitated about writing myself down for the Empress. I had never seen
+her, and W. was in such violent opposition always to the Empire that I
+never saw any of the Imperial family; but Madame d'Arcos said Bessie and
+I were the only Frenchwomen at Cowes; we had been everywhere--on the
+Osborne, to the Queen, etc., and it was rude not to do the same thing
+for the Empress--au fond, I was rather glad to have the opportunity, as
+I had never seen her. We went to the club garden after church, as I
+wanted to find a friend who would lend me a steam launch to go out to
+the Osborne. Lord Llangattock offered his, and also said he would take
+us to the Thistle for tea, as they were going on board to say good-bye
+to the Empress (they leave to-night). I wore my black and white foulard
+and a big black hat with feathers (never a sailor hat), which could go,
+as the day was fine and the sea smooth. The Princess was not there when
+I arrived; she had gone to the service on the Victoria and Albert. Miss
+Knollys appeared and we sat some time talking on deck. I was leaning
+over the railing when the Royal launch arrived, and I was astounded,
+after all these years (7), at the appearance of the Princess. Just the
+same slight, youthful figure and light step. The Duke of York came
+forward first and talked a little. He was dressed in undress admiral's
+uniform and looked very well. Then the Princess came, quite unchanged.
+She was simply dressed, in mourning, and looked quite as she did the
+last time I saw her, when she was also in mourning (for Prince Eddie).
+She kissed me, seemed pleased to see me, and we sat on two straw chairs,
+under the awning on the deck, talking about all sorts of things. She
+said the Duke of Edinburgh's death was a great grief to them. They were
+very fond of him, and it was sudden; and spoke most sadly about the
+Empress Frederick, who seems to be dying, and of a cancer. It seems that
+she knows quite well what is the matter with her and what is before her,
+as she nursed her husband through his long malady. Isn't it awful? She
+spoke about Francis, recalling his first afternoon at Marlborough House,
+when he was quite small and wept bitterly when the negro minstrels
+appeared. I told her he was working for diplomacy, and she said she
+would be much pleased to see him when he came to London as attaché.
+
+[Illustration: Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of Wight.
+From a photograph by Broderick.]
+
+The Prince came and talked a little while, and also recalled the last
+time we met last summer on the quai at Nuremberg, both coming from
+Marienbad, and swallowing hastily a cup of very hot coffee. I thought he
+looked grave and preoccupied. He talked a little about Cowes. He said he
+never remembered such a bad week--awful weather and few yachts. He was
+very complimentary about the two big American yachts, Itwana and Nahma;
+said he had never seen the Nahma, which he regretted, but he didn't know
+Mrs. Goelet--did I? "Oh yes, very well, ever since she was a child, and
+her mother and father before." I was sure she would be very pleased to
+receive them. The Prince said they were in such deep mourning that they
+had been on no yacht, and he hoped there would be no party. I said Mrs.
+Goelet herself was in deep mourning. After some consultation with the
+Princess they said they would like to go on board to-morrow morning at
+12 o'clock (they leave early Tuesday morning), and I promised to speak
+to Mrs. Goelet.
+
+He was amused when I said I liked the "Japs" so much, as he rather
+invented them. They came to sing to him one summer when he was ill at
+Cowes and on his yacht all the time. There are four people, three women
+and a man (a Frenchman), all masked, the women in pretty Japanese
+dresses and the man in ordinary clothes. One woman accompanies at the
+piano by heart, and extremely well; the other two and the man sing and
+dance--dancing very moderate--a sort of "walk around," but the singing
+very good; all English except one or two little French songs the man
+sings alone. One of their favourite ditties, "Mary housemaid," always
+brings down the house. It is just the sort of thing that would have
+amused us in our young days when we used to play and sing by heart and
+invent steps. The women are very graceful--I don't know if they are
+pretty, as one never sees their faces--and the man extraordinary, very
+amusing and never vulgar.
+
+I think I must have been a long time on the yacht, and nothing could be
+more gracious and sympathetic than the Princess. She told me the Queen
+would certainly receive me. I hadn't more than time to get back where
+Bessie and Borghese were very hungry waiting for luncheon, and to start
+again at 4; this time with Bessie and the Llangattocks for the Thistle.
+We were received by Madame d'Arcos, Mlle. Darauvilliers, and M. Rambaut.
+They told us the Empress had a cold and was very hoarse; had been
+forbidden by the doctor to come on deck, and also to talk, but that she
+would receive us in the cabin. We went down almost immediately, preceded
+by Madame d'Arcos, who said we must not stay long, as the Empress ought
+not to talk. She was standing in her cabin, still a handsome, stately
+figure, with beautiful brow and eyes, and charming manner, more animated
+than I had imagined. She was very well dressed in black. She made us sit
+down and talked herself a great deal, always about Paris, the Bassanos
+(speaking most warmly of the Duke), d'Albuféras, and various mutual
+friends. She knew Francis was to work for diplomacy, and said she could
+wish him nothing better than to walk in his father's footsteps. We were
+afraid we were tiring her, as she talked all the time. Twice the "dame
+d'honneur" appeared, but she waved her away. When she finally dismissed
+us she said "Je ne dirai pas adieu, mais au revoir"--regretted very much
+that she could not come on deck and have tea with us, but that we must
+certainly stay. We had a pleasant half hour talking with the others, and
+then there came a message from her begging that we would take her launch
+and cruise about in the harbour. I accepted gladly, as I wanted to
+communicate with the Nahma and didn't exactly know how to manage. The
+French ladies too wished to see the American yacht, so off we started in
+the Empress's launch. It seemed funny after all these years to be
+suddenly thrown with the Empress and her suite and careering about in
+her launch. Mrs. Goelet was not on board, but the steward took the
+visitors all over the yacht, and I discovered Mrs. Warren and told her
+that the Prince and Princess would like to go on board to-morrow--she
+said she was quite sure her daughter would be very happy to see them. I
+found a note from the Duchess of Roxburghe when I got home, saying that
+the Queen would receive me to-morrow at 4.30 at Osborne, so my day will
+be full, as I told Mrs. Goelet I would come to the Nahma to present her
+to the Prince and Princess.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #East Pavilion, Cowes, Isle of Wight#,
+    Monday, August 13, 1900.
+
+Well, Dear, I am just back from Osborne. I have the salon all to myself,
+Bessie and Borghese are out, and I will write you all about my audience
+while it is fresh in my memory, but I must begin at the beginning and
+tell you about the Royal visit to the Nahma, which went off very well. A
+little before twelve Mr. Warren, Mrs. Goelet's brother, came for us and
+we went off at once to the yacht. The Royal party arrived very
+punctually, Prince and Princess, Duke and Duchess of York, Princess
+Victoria, and various gentlemen. They were all delighted with the yacht,
+particularly the Duke of York, who saw everything. He called an officer
+of the Osborne to see some arrangement of signals which it seems is
+wonderful, and said they had nothing so perfect in the Royal Yacht. Mrs.
+Goelet did the honours very well and simply, receiving the Princes at
+the gangway, with her son and daughter on each side of her, a pretty,
+graceful figure in her plain black dress. I remained on board to lunch
+after the Princes departed, and they sent me ashore at 2.30 as I had
+just time to dress and go to Osborne.
+
+I started again a little before 4, wearing my black taffetas trimmed
+with lace and a tulle bonnet and white aigrette (quite costume de
+ville--I could not go to the Queen in a serge skirt and big hat). I took
+Joseph with me in plain black livery. We arrived quite in time, as there
+was no delay at the ferry this time, and the large gates were open, the
+man making a sign to us to drive in. There were two or three policemen
+standing near the gate and in the park. The park is pretty--not very
+large but beautifully green, and as we got near the house, quantities of
+flowers--a mass of colour. The house is not handsome--rather imposing, a
+large grey stone house with two wings, and flower-beds close up to the
+windows. Three or four footmen in plain black livery were waiting in the
+hall, and they took me at once upstairs to the ladies' drawing-room--a
+nice room at the side of the house not looking out to sea. The Duchess
+of Roxburghe was waiting for me, and we talked about fifteen minutes.
+Then came a Highland servant saying, "Her Majesty was ready to receive
+_Lady_ Waddington." The Duchess and I went downstairs, walked through
+various galleries, and stopped at a door where there was no servant. The
+Duchess knocked, the Queen's voice said, "Come in," and I found myself
+in a beautiful large salon, all the windows opening on the sea. The
+Queen, dressed as usual in black, was seated in the middle of the room
+facing the door. I had barely time to make one curtsey--she put out her
+hand and made me sit down next to her. She spoke to me first in French
+(just as she always did when I was at the Embassy--to mark, I suppose,
+that I was the French Ambassadress), "Je suis très heureuse de vous
+revoir--I think we can speak English--how much has happened since we
+met"; and then we talked about all sorts of things. I thought she looked
+extremely well--of course I couldn't tell if her sight was gone, as she
+knew I was coming and I sat close to her. Her eyes were blue and clear,
+and her memory and conversation quite the same. She thanked me for my
+letter; said the Duke of Edinburgh's death was a great blow to her. It
+was so sudden, she had not thought him ill. She had lost three children
+all very dear to her, and it was hard at her age to see her children go
+before her. She spoke at once (so moderately) of the caricatures and
+various little incidents that had occurred in France. I said I was very
+glad to have an opportunity of telling her that everybody in France
+(except for a few hot-headed radicals and anti-English) was most
+indignant at such gratuitous insults not only to the Queen but to a
+woman. She said she quite understood that--that wherever she had been in
+France everybody had done what they could to make her stay happy and
+comfortable; that she never could forget it, and hoped the French nation
+felt that--also that she would never dream of holding the country
+responsible for the radical press, but "my children and my people feel
+it very deeply." We talked about the King of Italy's murder (she was
+much pleased with the expression in one of the Italian papers "è morto
+in piedi") and she expressed great sympathy for Queen Margherita--"She
+is fond of Italy and is always thinking and planning what she can do for
+the people." We also talked about the Shah and the attentat in Paris. I
+said that left me rather indifferent, but she answered instantly, "You
+are quite wrong--it is the principle, not the person, that is attacked
+in those cases." I then remarked that it was a great pity, I thought,
+that one of those gentlemen (anarchists, not sovereigns) shouldn't be
+lynched; that I believed the one thing they were afraid of was the
+justice of the people. She said, "That is not a very Christian
+sentiment"; but I think she didn't altogether disagree with me. She
+asked me about Francis--was he working for diplomacy; and then, I don't
+know exactly how, we began talking about mixed marriages. She said she
+didn't think religion ought to be an invincible obstacle. I said I
+thought with her, but that French Protestants were very strict. I told
+her it had been said that my husband, who was certainly a very
+large-minded man in most things, was really narrow about Catholics. She
+said, with such a charming smile, "Oh, I can't think M. Waddington was
+ever narrow about anything, I always thought him one of the most
+large-minded, just men I ever knew." I must say I was pleased, and W.
+always felt that for some reason or another he was sympathetic to her.
+We talked a little about the Empress Frederick; she said the last news
+was better, but she evidently didn't want to pursue the subject. We
+talked on some little time, and when she finally dismissed me, she said,
+"I hope you will come back to England, and whenever you do I shall be
+very glad to see you." She shook hands--I backed myself to the door,
+opened it, and there found the Highland servant, who took me back to the
+drawing-room where the Duchess of Roxburghe was waiting. She suggested
+that we should go for a turn in the garden, and when she went to get her
+hat I looked about the room, which is quite plainly furnished--a grand
+piano, comfortable furniture, not pretty, and no particular style.
+
+We walked about the gardens a little, which are pretty, such quantities
+of flowers, and had tea under the trees. Two of the ladies came
+out--Mrs. Grant and Miss Harbord. They were very anxious to know if I
+found the Queen changed after seven years, but I really can't say I did.
+My impression is that they find her older. They say she felt the Duke of
+Edinburgh's death very much, and that she is very worried about the
+Empress Frederick, though she doesn't talk much about her. It was lovely
+sitting under the trees, so cool and quiet after the noise and glare of
+Cowes. All the people bowed as we drove home through Cowes. I think they
+took Joseph in his black livery for one of the Queen's servants.
+
+I must tell you that Joseph and Élise are also moving in high society.
+Joseph came with a most smiling face to me Saturday night to say that
+one of his friends was chef on the Empress's yacht (the Thistle) and had
+invited them to breakfast on Sunday on the yacht. I said they could go,
+and when Bessie and I were going to church we saw them start--he in the
+regulation Cowes blue serge costume (_not_ the short, very short, Eton
+jacket which is the dress attire of the Club men) and yellow shoes, and
+she in my old purple foulard, with a very nice little toque. A very
+smart little boat was waiting for them.
+
+Now, my Dear, I must stop, as I am exhausted, and a perfect Mrs.
+Jellyby, papers flying all over the place, as I am writing at the open
+window, and ink all over me, fingers, hair, etc. I can't say, as Madame
+de Sévigné did, "ma plume vole," for mine stops and scratches, and makes
+holes in the paper, and does everything it can to make my writing
+difficult. I wonder why I hate it so--I do--as soon as I sit down to my
+writing-table I want to go out or play on the piano, or even crochet
+little petticoats--anything rather than write. I suppose I shall never
+see the Queen again--at her age it isn't very likely, especially if I
+wait another seven years without coming over. I am glad she received me,
+it was a great pleasure.
+
+
+    _Note._
+
+    #Paris, 29, Rue Auguste Vacquerie#,
+    Dimanche, 29 Decembre, 1901.
+
+Of course I never saw the Queen again. She began to fail that same
+autumn (1900) after her return home from Balmoral, and died at Osborne
+the 22d of January, 1901--a beautiful death, painless, sleeping away and
+all her children and grandchildren with her. It isn't only the Queen who
+has disappeared--it is the century. England will enter on a new
+phase--but it must be different from the chapter that has just closed.
+
+
+
+    INDEX
+
+
+d'A----, Countess, 235
+
+A----, Lady, 214, 235
+
+A----, Lord, experience on the House of Lords boat at the Naval Review,
+       264, 265
+
+A----, Mdme., 87, 89, 122
+
+Aberdeen, Lady, 313
+
+Aberdeen, Lord, 216
+
+Abinger, Lord and Lady, 172
+
+Adams, 234
+
+Adelaïde, Mlle., 7, 10 _et passim_
+
+d'Agoult, 343
+
+Albanesi, 234
+
+Albani, 242, 243
+
+Albany, Duke and Duchess of, 179;
+  death of the Duke, 206
+
+Albert, Arch Duke and Arch Duchess, of Austria, 56;
+  incident in Paris, 57
+
+Albert, Prince, 177; tomb, 239
+
+Albert Solms, Prince, 388
+
+Albert Victor, Prince, Duke of Clarence, 184, 186, 218, 237;
+  illness, 333;
+  engagement to Princess May, 333;
+  death, 334;
+  funeral, 336;
+  sarcophagus, 369
+
+d'Albufèras, 395
+
+Alexander III., Emperor of Russia, 4;
+  the procession to the Kremlin, 44-46;
+  danger from the Nihilists, 52, 53;
+  coronation of, 65-67;
+  the breakfast following the Coronation, 68-70;
+  the reception after the Coronation, 71-73;
+  at the Court Ball, 74, 75;
+  at the great ball at the Palace, 78;
+  the Fête Populaire, 82;
+  at the Palace ball, 86-90;
+  the gala dinner, 93, 94;
+  the revue, 102-104;
+  his home at Peterhof, 116, 117
+
+Alexander, Prince, of Battenberg, 236
+
+Alexis, Grand Duke, at the coronation of his brother, Emperor Alexander
+        III., 66; at the Palace ball, 86
+
+Alice, Princess, of Hesse, 239
+
+Amédée, King, 92
+
+Amélie, Princess, of Schleswig-Holstein, 326
+
+Ampthill, Lord and Lady, 17, 281, 282
+
+Anne, ----, 5
+
+Antrim, Lady, 310, 312
+
+d'Aoste, Duc, 6; described, 91, 92, 361
+
+Appert, General, 145, 148, 153
+
+Appert, Madame, 153, 154;
+  her daughters, 154
+
+d'Arcos, Madame, 395
+
+Armour, Mr., 391
+
+Arran, Lady, 377
+
+Arthur, Sir George, 375, 377, 382
+
+Ashburton, Lady, 349
+
+Ashburton, Lady Louisa, 242
+
+Astor, Mrs. 357
+
+Augusta, Empress, 18
+
+d'Aumale, Duc, 217, 303, 304
+
+
+Baden, Grand Duchess of, 18
+
+Baldwin, Admiral, 58, 120, 142;
+  entertains the Waddingtons and others on his flagship, 120-123;
+  impressions of the Coronation, 137
+
+Baldwin, Mrs., 151
+
+Barrington, Mr. Eric, 329, 337
+
+Bassanos, 395
+
+Bayard, Mr., 377
+
+Beatrice, Princess, 176, 177, 192, 195;
+  at the opening of Parliament, 237;
+  at Windsor Castle, 238, 311
+
+Bedford, Duchess of, 236, 257, 280
+
+Bedford, Duke of, 280, 281
+
+Belgians, King of the, 249
+
+Belgians, Queen of the, 256
+
+Benckendorff, Colonel, 34 _et passim_
+
+Bérard, M., 24, 26
+
+Beresford, Lord Charles, 296
+
+Bernadotte, 138
+
+Bernhardt, Mdme. Sarah, 135
+
+Bille, Elsa de, 317, 323
+
+Bille, Mdme. de, 315, 326
+
+Bismarck, 15;
+  talks with M. Waddington, 17, 18, 21;
+  friction with the Empress, 268
+
+Bismarck, Herbert, 243
+
+Bleichroeder, 19
+
+Blennerhasset, Lady, 340
+
+Blumenthal's, 302
+
+Böhm, 281, 282
+
+Boleyn, Anne, 175
+
+Bondy, M. de, 140, 142
+
+Borghese, 395
+
+Borthwick, Lady, 251, 271, 272
+
+Boston, Lord, 218
+
+Boulanger, 267, 268, 296
+
+Bowen, Judge, 367
+
+Braganza, Duchesse de, 256
+
+Brandt, Mr., 163
+
+Brasseys, 187
+
+Brennen, Mme. and Mlle. de, 203
+
+Bridge, Dr., 348
+
+Brown, Mrs., 169
+
+Brown, John, tablet in memory of, 239
+
+Brownlows, 346
+
+Bryce, Mr., 307
+
+Btetju, Count, 244
+
+Buccleuch, Duchess of, 237, 257
+
+"Buffalo Bill," 243
+
+Bulgaria, Prince of, 218
+
+Bülow, 337
+
+Bunsen, George de, 15, 16, 17
+
+Bunsen, Mlle. Beatrice de, 285
+
+Bunsen, Mary de, 386, 390
+
+Burns, Walter, 295
+
+Burtons, 354
+
+Bury, Mlle. de, "sur Racine," 212
+
+Bylandt, Comte de, at the Naval Review, 261, 265
+
+Bylandt, Comtesse de, 203, 220, 222, 259, 338
+
+Byng, Colonel, 252, 369
+
+
+C----, Lord, Indian Secretary, 252
+
+Calmon, Robert, 7, 95
+
+Cambridge, Duchess of, 180
+
+Cambridge, Duke of, 189, 195, 201, 236, 246, 258
+
+Cameron, Sir Roderick, 283, 286;
+  in Scotland, 287 _et seq._
+
+Campbell, Mr., 207
+
+Carlingford, Lord, 184
+
+Canterbury, Archbishop of, 355, 356
+
+Carpe, 272
+
+Carrington, Lord, 346
+
+Catherine II., 90, 95
+
+Cavendish, Lord Frederick, murder of, 3
+
+Cecil, Lady Gwendoline, 306
+
+Cecil, Lady Margaret, 218, 231, 232
+
+Cecil, Lord Edward, 303
+
+Chaine, Col., 337
+
+Chambord, Comte de, illness of, 156;
+  death, 159, 170
+
+Charles IX., 143
+
+Charles Louis, Arch Duke and Arch Duchess, of Austria, 88, 93, 96;
+  at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 66;
+  at the Court ball, 74;
+  drive with the Empress at the revue, 103
+
+Chemin, 11
+
+Chesterfield, Lord, 219
+
+Chetwode, Sir George and Lady, 172
+
+Chigi, Marchesa, 358
+
+Childers, Mr., 182
+
+Christian, Prince, of Schleswig-Holstein, 266, 368
+
+Christian, Princess, 254, 266, 368
+
+Churchill, Lady, 192
+
+Clanwilliam, Lady, 315
+
+Clark, Stanley, 363
+
+Colocotroni, Mlle., 71
+
+Compans, Ternaux, 125
+
+Connaught, Duchess of, 368
+
+Connaught, Duke of, 236;
+  at the Jubilee Te Deum, 249;
+  as a soldier, 258
+
+Constantine, Grand Duchess, 60, 61, 80, 87, 88, 94
+
+Constantine, Grand Duke, 60, 61
+
+Corcelle, François de, 7, 13, 95
+
+Cork, Lady, 388
+
+Cork, Lord, 197
+
+Correa, Brazilian Minister, 270
+
+Corti, Ambassador, 239, 240
+
+Courcel, Mdme. de, 16, 18, 20, 21, 159, 162
+
+Courcel, M. de, 14, 15, 159, 162
+
+Coutouly, M., 125, 127
+
+Coventry, Lord, 279, 357
+
+Cowell, Sir John, 191, 192
+
+Cranborne, Lady, 306
+
+Cranborne, Lord, 255
+
+Cumming, Jean Gordon, 235
+
+Curzon, Lord and Lady, 310
+
+
+D----, Count, Austrian Ambassador, 236
+
+Dalhousie, Lord, 192, 193
+
+Darauvilliers, Mlle., 395
+
+Deichmann, Baron, 268, 344
+
+Deichmann, Baroness Hilda, 208, 222, 253;
+  described, 210
+
+Deichmann, Elsa, 317
+
+Deichmann, Hilda, 254, 255, 321
+
+Deichmann, Wilhelm, 351
+
+Delamere, Lady, 354
+
+Delawarr, Lord and Lady, 201
+
+Denmark, Crown Prince of, 305
+
+Denmark, King of, 249
+
+Derby, Lady, reception at home of, 210, 211;
+  entertains at Knowsley, 228-232
+
+Derby, Lord, 218, 231, 232
+
+Déroulède, 314
+
+Deym, Bianca, 317, 318, 320
+
+Deym, Countess, 315, 329
+
+Dolgourouky, Prince, 96
+
+Dubois, Marie, 203
+
+Dudzeele, Countess, dances with the Emperor at the Court ball, 74
+
+Dufferin, Lord and Lady, entertain at Walmer Castle, 358-360;
+  rank, 371
+
+Duncan, 287
+
+Dupoutet, 347
+
+
+Eames, Miss, 295, 314
+
+Edinburgh, Duchess of, 88, 103, 192, 200, 203
+
+Edinburgh, Duke of, 6, 45, 93, 103, 203, 236, 254;
+  daughters, 249;
+  at the Jubilee Te Deum, 249;
+  death, 391, 393
+
+Edward, Prince, of Saxe-Weimar, 203, 357
+
+Edwardes, Gay, 317, 318, 336
+
+Edwardes, Henry, 319
+
+Edwardes, Mrs., 323
+
+Érard, 320
+
+Erroll, Lady, 176
+
+Esher, Lord, 242
+
+d'Estournelles, 325, 328
+
+d'Estournelles, Mdme., 326, 328
+
+Eugénie, Empress, 266;
+  at Cowes, 395, 396
+
+Eulenbourg, Count, 81
+
+Eulenbourg, Countess, 324
+
+
+Falbe, Mme. de, 232, 233
+
+Falbe, M. de, 232, 233, 305
+
+Fawkes, Guy, confession, 242
+
+Fayet, Commandant, 7
+
+Fife, Duke of, 276;
+  engagement to Princess Louise, 301;
+  marriage, 305
+
+Florian, Count de, 194, 207, 253, 259, 278, 283
+
+Florian, Countess de, 253, 259, 262, 278, 283, 306;
+  at White Lodge, 341, 342
+
+Forbes, 233
+
+Forges, M. Blanchard de, 226
+
+Francis, Miss W., 287
+
+François d'Assises, King, 92
+
+Frederick,  Empress,  Crown Princess, 250, 252;
+  described, 253;
+  visit to Versailles, 309;
+  at Windsor, 310-312, 368;
+  luncheonat Ferdinand Rothschild's, 314;
+  receives the Waddingtons, 378;
+  at Cronberg, 387-390;
+  illness, 394
+
+Frederick III., Emperor, Crown Prince, 250, 251;
+  failing health, 254, 266, 267;
+  death, 282;
+  funeral service, 282, 283
+
+Frederica, Princess, of Hanover, 204
+
+Frederick Charles, Prince, 243
+
+Frederick Charles, Princess, 20
+
+Freeman, Violet, 321
+
+Froude, J. A., 229;
+  on America, 231
+
+
+Galitzin, Prince, 49
+
+Gardner, Lady Winifred, 346
+
+Gayare, 242
+
+Gennadius, 336
+
+George II., 267
+
+George, Prince, 200, 237, 337;
+  report of marriage to Princess May, 362
+
+Gevers, Baron, 338
+
+Ghika, Princess, 222
+
+Giers, M. de, 58, 76
+
+Gilbert, 369
+
+Gille, Mdme., 107
+
+Gladstone, Mr. W. E., described, 3;
+  versatility, 181, 182;
+  gives a reception, 188, 189;
+  dines at Mr. Murray's, 315;
+  age, 346;
+  makes his great Irish speech, 363
+
+Gladstone, Mrs. W. E., 3, 189, 346;
+  gives a dinner for the Archbishop of Canterbury, 355, 356
+
+Gladstone, Wm., 172
+
+Glinka's opera, "La Vie pour le Czar," 69, 75, 80
+
+Goelet, Mrs., 391;
+  receives the Royal party aboard the Nahma, 397
+
+Gordon, "Chinese," murder of, 199
+
+Goschens, 184
+
+Gower, Mr. Leveson, 172
+
+Grant, General U. S., death, 218
+
+Grant, Mrs., 400
+
+Granville, Countess, 195
+
+Granville, Earl, entertains M. Waddington, 170, 171, 190, 195, 273
+
+Greece, King of, 256, 260, 305
+
+Greece, Queen of, 71, 77, 80, 93;
+  described, 72;
+  at the Court ball, 74
+
+Greene, Plunkett, 302
+
+Grey, Lady Jane, 175
+
+Grieg, 273
+
+Griswold, Miss Gertrude, 234
+
+Grondal, Mdme., 302
+
+Guillemain, M., 348
+
+
+Halsbury, 237
+
+Hamilton, Duchess of, 236
+
+Hamilton, Lord and Lady Claud, 201
+
+Harbord, Miss, 400
+
+Harcourt, Lady, 174;
+  presents Mme. Waddington to the Queen, 175, 176, 177
+
+Harcourt, Sir William, 174
+
+Hare, the actor, 346
+
+Hartington, Lord, 199, 268, 310, 311
+
+Hatzfeldt, Comte, 16, 303, 314, 325;
+  at Hatfield, 330, 331
+
+Hawaiian Secretary, 245
+
+Hayter, Lord and Lady, 183, 200
+
+Henrietta ----, 10 _et passim_
+
+Henry, Prince, of Battenberg, 204, 236, 368, 373
+
+Herberts, Ivor, 273
+
+Heretier, Grand Duke, 103
+
+Herkomer, his studio and pupils, 344-346
+
+Herschell, Lady, 359
+
+Herschell, Lord, 366, 378
+
+Heurtel, Mme., 261
+
+Hoffman, Col. and Mrs., 147, 154, 155, 156
+
+Hollman, 276
+
+Hubert, 7, _et passim_
+
+Hubert, Mdme., 5, 10
+
+Huddlestone, Lady Diana, 279
+
+Humlicher, Marie, 374, 375
+
+Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., 37, 58, 83, 120
+
+Hurlbert, Mr., 181, 182
+
+
+Isabella, Queen, 92
+
+Ivan the Terrible, 91
+
+
+Jansen, Mlle., 377
+
+Jaurès, Admiral, 36, 94, 105;
+  his hospitality, 118
+
+Jaurès, Mdme., 36, 37, 80, 88, 117;
+  at the Court ball, 74;
+  aboard the Lancaster, 122
+
+Jay, Anna, 39
+
+Jersey, Lady, 187, 203;
+  experiences at receptions, 211
+
+Jersey, Lord, 187
+
+Jeune, Mr. and Mrs., 218, 266
+
+Jeune, Sir Francis, 367
+
+Joachim, 272
+
+Johore, Maharajah of, 216
+
+Jomini, M., 120
+
+Joseph, 7
+
+Joy, Mr., 14
+
+Jusserand, J. J., 276, 277, 286, 380
+
+Juteau, 191, 216
+
+
+Kapilani, Queen, of the Sandwich Islands, 245, 249, 255, 256
+
+Karolyi, Count, 226, 240, 241
+
+Karolyi, Count Victor, 240
+
+Karolyi, Countess Fanny, 189, 195, 220, 240, 241
+
+Karolyi, Nadine, 226
+
+Kenmare, Lord, 192
+
+Kergorlay, M. de, 145, 147, 155;
+  his children, 150, 152, 156
+
+Khiva, Khan of, 75
+
+Kimberley, Lord and Lady, 192
+
+King, Rufus, 179
+
+Kleeberg, Mme., 270
+
+Knollys, Miss, 179, 184, 320, 363
+
+Knowles, 246
+
+Knowles, James, 366
+
+Knutsford, Lord, 268
+
+Kotchoubey, Princess, 49-51, 58, 82, 88
+
+Kufstein, Count, 269
+
+
+Lacour, Challemel, Ministre des Affaires Étrangères, appoints M.
+Waddington Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow, 5
+
+Lagrené, M., 32, 95
+
+La Iglesia, M. de Casa, 220, 223, 275;
+  appointed Ambassador, 306
+
+Langhe, Mlle. de, 285;
+  helps with the children's comedy, 315 _et seq._
+
+Lasteyrie, 347
+
+Lataings, 338
+
+Lathom, Lord, 237, 252;
+  on the Jubilee ceremonies, 258, 259
+
+Lawrence, Mrs., 148
+
+Lawrence, Anna, 317
+
+Layard, Lady, 388
+
+Lecky, Mr., 229
+
+Lecomte, M., 298, 299, 319
+
+Leeds, Duke and Duchess of, 201
+
+Leeven, Baron, 118
+
+Leigh, Tom, 269
+
+Leighton, Sir Frederick, 310
+
+Lennox, Lord Algy, 388
+
+Leroy, Mr., 7
+
+Le Valloit, Mdme., 272
+
+Levisohn, Mlle., organizes a "toy symphony," 351 _et seq._
+
+Lhermite, M., 8
+
+Lincoln, Mr., 340, 377, 380
+
+Lind, Letty, 271
+
+Linden, Countess, 85
+
+Lionel, Lord, 232
+
+Llangattock, Lord, 393
+
+Lloyd, 276
+
+Lloyd, Lady Mary, 349
+
+Lomatch, M., 126
+
+London, Lord Mayor and Mayoress of, 364, 365, 367
+
+Londonderry, Lady, 303, 315
+
+Lonsdale, Lady, 184
+
+Lorne, Lord, 271, 302, 366
+
+Louis Philippe, 171
+
+Louise, Princess, 200, 271;
+  announcement of her engagement, 301;
+  marriage, 305; at Kensington, 379
+
+Lowell, James Russell, 180, 202, 242;
+  death of his wife, 200
+
+Lowell, Mrs., 180; death of, 200
+
+Lyons, Lord, 3, 98, 183
+
+Lytton, Lord, 183, 372
+
+
+Mackay, Mr. and Mrs., 37, 58
+
+MacMahon, Maréchal, 6, 7
+
+Magdalen, Master of, 184
+
+Malagache Embassy, 21
+
+Manners, Lord and Lady John, 218
+
+Mansouroff, Madame, 43
+
+Margaretta, Princess, 311
+
+Margherita, Queen, 399
+
+Marochetti, Italian Minister, 153
+
+Mary of Teck, Princess, 244, 251;
+  described, 275;
+  at White Lodge, 341, 342, 362;
+  opens the French bazaar, 373;
+  tea at Mme. Waddington's, 377, 378
+
+Mary, Queen, "Bloody Mary," letter to Cardinal Pole, 242
+
+Mary, Queen of Scots, portraits of, 288
+
+Massanet, 295
+
+Mathias, M., 134, 135, 136
+
+Maud, Princess, 320, 330
+
+Mavrocordato, 25
+
+May, Princess, 244, 275;
+  engagement to the Duke of Clarence, 333;
+  grief for, 341, 342;
+  rumour of marriage to Prince George, 362, 377;
+  at the French bazaar, 374
+
+Mazo, del, Spanish Ambassador, 368
+
+Mead, Lady J., 317
+
+Mecklenburg, Duke and Duchess Paul of, 271, 272, 273
+
+Mensdorff, 377
+
+Merindol, 348
+
+Methuen, Lord, 176
+
+Michel, Grand Duchess, receives Mme. Waddington, 59, 60, 87;
+  described, 94
+
+Michel, Grand Duke, 87
+
+Mitford, Mrs., 340, 342
+
+Mohrenheim, M. de, Russian Ambassador, 179, 184;
+  at Windsor Castle, 191, 192
+
+Mohrenheim, Madame de, 185, 191, 192, 193
+
+Molesworth, Lady, 217
+
+Moltke, 131, 154
+
+Monaco, Princess of, 326
+
+Monk, Mr. Charles, 172, 174
+
+Monk, Miss Julia, 172, 173, 201
+
+Montebello, 372
+
+Montpensier, Duc de, 6, 43, 46, 93
+
+Montrose, Duchess of, 203
+
+Mostyn, Mrs., 378
+
+Moulin, M., 125
+
+Münster, German Ambassador, 179, 180, 239
+
+Murray, Mr., 315
+
+
+Naidillac, Marquis de, 326
+
+Nannie, 352
+
+Neruda, Mdme., 272
+
+Newcastle, Duke and Duchess of, 306
+
+Newman, 308
+
+Nigra, Italian Ambassador, 37, 68, 80, 82, 97;
+  describes Russian society, 98;
+  in London, 179;
+  at Windsor Castle, 192;
+  departure for Vienna, 223
+
+Noccomore, Commandant, 261
+
+Nordica, 276, 284
+
+Northbrook, Lord, 183
+
+Northcote, Lady, 306, 314
+
+Northcote, Sir Stafford, 189
+
+Northumberland, Lord, 360
+
+
+Oborlenski, Princess, 43, 52
+
+Oldenburg, Duchess of, 61, 88, 103
+
+Oppenheim, Mrs., 284
+
+Orléans Princes, 274
+
+Orloff, Prince, 9, 53, 96, 101
+
+d'Orval, M., 108
+
+Ourousoff, Prince, 105
+
+
+P----, Lady, 213
+
+P----, Lizzie, 243
+
+Pahlen, Count, 49, 51, 54
+
+Pahlen, Countess, 55, 58, 96
+
+Palmerston, Lord, 171
+
+Paris, Comte de, 159, 274, 275
+
+Pasquier, Duc d'Audifret, 274
+
+Patenôtre, M., 135, 139;
+  characterises the Swedes, 140, 141;
+  bids farewell to the Waddingtons, 143
+
+Paul, Mr., aide-de-camp, 58, 120
+
+Paulucci, Marquis, 352, 377
+
+Pawel-Rammingen, Baron, 204
+
+Peel, Sir Robert, his daughter, 201
+
+Pepys, Lady Mary, 285
+
+Percy, Countess, 360
+
+Perier, Mdme. Casimir, 277
+
+Perponcher, Countess, 310, 314, 388
+
+Persia, Grand Vizier of, 303
+
+Persia, Shah of, at the Court Ball, 301;
+  arrival by water, 301, 302;
+  luncheon party at Hatfield in his honour, 302-304
+
+Peter the Great, portraits of, 118, 119
+
+Petiteville, 226
+
+Petre, Mr. Henry, 313
+
+Pfeffer, 351
+
+Phelps, Edward J., American Ambassador, 238, 239
+
+Phelps, Marguerite, 317
+
+Phelps, Mrs., 238, 239, 247
+
+Phillipe, the coiffeur, 12
+
+Picolellis, 272, 275
+
+Pierson, 7
+
+Pina, M. de, 159, 162, 163
+
+Pittié, Général, 7, 24, 67, 98
+
+Plunkett, Mr., 4
+
+Ponsonby, Sir Henry, 176, 177, 237
+
+Pontavice, 320, 326, 327
+
+Pontécoulant, Comte de, 7, 10, 20 _et passim_;
+  death of his brother, 94;
+  his death, 208
+
+Portland, Duke of, 202, 237
+
+Pourtalès, Comte Jacques de, 233
+
+Poutel, Mdme. du, 373
+
+Powell, Mr. Price W., 172
+
+Praed, Mr., 218
+
+Prince Imperial of Germany, 18, 19
+
+Probyn, Sir Digby, 179, 363
+
+
+Quirim, Miss, 333
+
+
+Radziwill, 91, 162
+
+Radziwill, Princess, 22
+
+Rambaut, M., 395
+
+Randolph Churchill, Lady, 377
+
+Regnier, Arch Duke, of Austria, 259
+
+Reischach, Baron, 388, 390
+
+Renan, 309
+
+Reszke, Jean de, 315
+
+Ribot, 372
+
+Richard, Mdme., 320
+
+Richelieu, Duchesse de, 306
+
+Richter, General, 101, 116
+
+Rizzio, murder of, 288
+
+Roffy, Mrs., 316, 317, 321
+
+Rogers, aide-de-camp, 58, 120
+
+Rogers, Canon, 297;
+  takes Mme. Waddington through Petticoat Lane, 298, 299;
+  his good work, 299, 300
+
+Ronalds, Mrs., 272
+
+Rosebery, Lady, 204;
+  gives a ball, 255
+
+Rosebery, Lord, 255, 256
+
+Rothschild, Ferdinand, 314
+
+Rothschild, Lord, 268
+
+Roustan, naval attaché, 268
+
+Rudolph, Prince, 247
+
+Roxburghe, Duchess of, 257, 392, 398
+
+Russia, Empress of, 45;
+  coronation of, 65-67;
+  at the Coronation breakfast, 67-70;
+  versatility as a linguist, 73;
+  at the Court ball, 74, 75;
+  at the great ball, 78;
+  gives a tea between the acts at the Opera, 80;
+  at the gala dinner, 93, 94;
+  drives without escort, 98;
+  at the revue, 103, 104
+
+Rustem Pacha, 235, 330, 366
+
+Rutland, Duchess of, 304
+
+
+Sagan, Duke of, 159
+
+St. Albans, Duchess of, 377
+
+St. Clair, Lady Harriet, 179
+
+St. Genys, 276, 306, 315, 316
+
+St. Vallier, 15, 17
+
+Salisbury, Lady, gives reception, 210, 211;
+  entertains the Waddingtons at Hatfield, 215, 216;
+  luncheon party in honour of the Shah, 302-304;
+  on the ice, 306, 307;
+  gives luncheon for the German Emperor, 329-332;
+  desire for rest, 356;
+  crosses the channel, 362;
+  makes a speech, 376
+
+Salisbury, Lord, 189;
+  speaks in the House of Lords, 201, 202;
+  at opening of Parliament, 237;
+  reception, 243;
+  entertains the Shah, 303;
+  and the German Emperor, 329-331
+
+Sancy, M. de, 20, 159, 162
+
+Sanderson, Miss, 295
+
+Sanderson, Mr. Thomas, 337
+
+Sandford, Mr., 143
+
+Sarasate, 272
+
+Saxe-Weimar, Prince Herman, 254
+
+Say, Léon, 3
+
+Scalchi, 242
+
+Scarlett, Miss, 172, 173
+
+Schimmelpenninck, M., 27, 29, 30, 58, 122
+
+Schubert, 345
+
+Schuster, Frank, 276
+
+Schuyler, 308
+
+Schweinitz, General, 39, 80, 83;
+  at the Coronation Breakfast, 70;
+  at the Court ball, 73
+
+Schweinitz, Madame, 81
+
+Seckendorff, Count, 310, 312, 313, 314, 337
+
+Sefton, Lord, 231
+
+Ségur, Comte Paul de, 274
+
+Serge, Grand Duchess, 256
+
+Sermet, M., 125
+
+Sesmaisons, Colonel Comte de, 7, 13, 15, 95 _et passim_
+
+Seymour, Admiral, 89
+
+Seymour, Lord William, 382
+
+Seymour, Sir Francis, 202
+
+Sheridan, May, 247
+
+Smith, W. H., holds a political reception, 269, 270
+
+Solvyns, Baron, 336, 381
+
+Somaglia, Countess, 361
+
+Southampton, Lady, 370
+
+Soveral, Portuguese Minister, 314, 330, 331
+
+Spain, King of, death of, 220
+
+Spencer, Countess, 330, 369
+
+Staal, M. de, Russian Ambassador, 223, 241, 310, 326;
+  at Hatfield,330, 331
+
+Staal, Madame de, 236, 241, 323;
+  described, 243
+
+Staal, Thekla, 226, 323
+
+Stainer, Dr., 348
+
+Stanhope, Lady, 18;
+  entertains the Waddingtons and others, 218, 219
+
+Stanhope, Lord, 219
+
+Stanhope, Mr. and Mrs. Edward, 218
+
+Stanhope, Philip, 361
+
+Stanley, Dowager Lady, 181, 182
+
+Stanleys, 355
+
+Struve, M. and Mdme. de, 120
+
+Stewart, Lady Helen, 317
+
+Stuart, Miss, 348
+
+Sudely, Lord, 297
+
+Suffield, Lady, 363
+
+Suffield, Lord, 363
+
+Sullivan, Sir Arthur, 271, 272
+
+Sutherland, Duchess of, 236
+
+Sweden, Crown Prince of, 93, 253
+
+Sweden, King of, 142, 143
+
+Sweden, Prince Royal of, 145
+
+Sydney, Lord, 359
+
+
+Tadema, Alma, 379
+
+Talleyrand, Bessie, 391
+
+Tavistock, Lord, 281
+
+Teck, Duke of, 236
+
+Teesdale, 369
+
+Tennyson, 183
+
+Thénard, 284, 285;
+ assists producing the children's comedy, 315 _et seq._
+
+Thomson, Mr., 339
+
+Thornton, Lady, 37, 80, 88, 104;
+  at the Court ball, 74;
+  aboard the Lancaster, 121, 122
+
+Thornton, Mary, 126
+
+Thornton, Sir Edward, 40, 83, 89
+
+Thornycroft, 278, 279
+
+Toll, Count and Countess, 153
+
+Tornielli, 352, 361, 377
+
+Tosti, 272, 275, 306
+
+Trebelli, 276
+
+Trémouille, Charlotte de la, 230
+
+Trevelyans, 355
+
+Troubetzkoi, Princess Lise, 49, 115
+
+Tweeddale, Lady, 201
+
+Tweedmouth, Lord, 354
+
+
+Val Prinsep, 388, 390
+
+Vannutelli, Mgr., 96, 98, 118;
+  visits the Lancaster, 122, 123
+
+Victoria, Princess, 320, 397
+
+Victoria, Queen, receives Mme. Waddington, 176, 177;
+  described, 177;
+  at Windsor Castle, 192, 193, 238, 239;
+  Drawing-room, 206;
+  holds long Drawing-room, 213, 214;
+  opens Parliament, 235-238;
+  at the Jubilee ceremonies in Westminster Abbey, 249, 250;
+  in the procession after the service, 250, 251;
+  receives at the Palace, 252, 253;
+  at the children's fête in Hyde Park, 254, 255;
+  reviews the Volunteers, 257, 258;
+  at the Naval Review, 260-264;
+  with the Empress Frederick at Windsor, 310, 311;
+  bids farewell to the Waddingtons, 368, 370-372;
+  receives Mme. Waddington at Osborne, 397-401;
+  death, 402
+
+Villiers, 226
+
+Villestreux, Mdme. de la, 364, 365, 373
+
+Vinci, Comte, 350
+
+Vivian, Lady, 210
+
+Vivian, Lord, 151, 153
+
+
+Waddington, Francis, 10 _et passim_;
+  as an actor, 285, 315 _et seq_;
+  placed in a French school, 332
+
+Waddington, Mme., meets Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, 3;
+  M. Waddington appointed Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow, to
+  represent France at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 4-6;
+  preparations for Moscow, 6-12;
+  arrives at Berlin, 13, 14;
+  impression of Berlin, 15;
+  visits the de Bunsens, 17, 19;
+  goes to the races, 18;
+  departure from Berlin, 22;
+  dines at Alexandrownow with a Hessian Prince, 23;
+  reaches Warsaw, 24;
+  describes the city, 24;
+  visits a chateau, 25;
+  the trip from Warsaw to Moscow, 26-31;
+  arrival at Moscow, 31, 32;
+  description of the Maison Klein, 32, 33;
+  experiences with a Court train, 36;
+  drives through Moscow, 37-39;
+  the Emperor's entrance into the Kremlin, 42-46;
+  received by the Empress, 47-52;
+  visits Princess Obolenski, 52;
+  goes over the palaces at the Kremlin, 54;
+  famous paintings and jewels in the Church of the Assomption, 54;
+  visits Princess Radziwill and Countess Pahlen, 55;
+  at the reception of the Arch Duke and Duchess Albert of Austria, 56-58;
+  attends reception at M. de Giers', 58;
+  audience with Grand Duchess Michel, 59, 60;
+  with the Grand Duchess Constantine, 60, 61;
+  with the Duchesse d'Oldenburg, 61;
+  and the Grand Duchess Wladmir, 61;
+  dines with the permanent French Embassy, 62;
+  the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 63-67, 70, 71;
+  the Coronation breakfast, 67-70;
+  at the presentation of felicitations to the Emperor and Empress, 71-73;
+  presented to the Queen of Greece, 71, 72;
+  appearance of the Embassies, 72, 73;
+  goes to the Court ball, 73-75;
+  dances with the Emperor and Grand Duke Wladimir, 74, 75;
+  the Fête Populaire, 76, 82;
+  gives a Russian dinner, 76, 77;
+  the great ball at the Palace, 77, 78;
+  goes shopping, 78, 95;
+  attends the Opera, 79, 80;
+  tea with the Empress, 80;
+  gives a diplomatic dinner, 83, 96, 99, 100;
+  photographing the whole establishment, 83, 84;
+  at the Palace ball, 85-90;
+  sees the Trésor, 91;
+  the gala dinner, 92-94;
+  the institution of the "Enfants Trouvés," 95, 96;
+  gives a reception, 100, 101;
+  the revue at the Tribune Imperiale, 102-104;
+  sightseeing in Moscow, 106;
+  preparations for leaving Moscow, 107, 108, 109;
+  takes a moonlight drive to the Kremlin, 109, 110;
+  departure from Moscow, 111;
+  the journey to Petersburg, 111, 112;
+  description of Petersburg, 113, 114;
+  the Hermitage, 113, 115, 116;
+  "La Pointe," 114, 115;
+  the pictures at the Hermitage, 116, 117, 118;
+  makes an excursion to Peterhof, 116, 117;
+  dinner at the Hunts', 120;
+  entertained by Admiral Baldwin on board the flagship Lancaster, 120-123;
+  visits the Thorntons, 124, 125;
+  shopping in Petersburg, 126;
+  the voyage by steamer to Stockholm, 126-134;
+  description of Helsingfors, 129, 130;
+  Abo, the old capital of Finland, 132;
+  the approach to Stockholm, 134;
+  drives through Stockholm, 135-139;
+  to Drottningholm, 138, 139;
+  shopping in Stockholm, 141, 142;
+  journeys from Stockholm to Copenhagen, 144, 145;
+  drives through Copenhagen, 145, 147, 151, 154, 155;
+  visits the Historical Museum, 146;
+  a pleasant expedition to Tivoli, 148, 149;
+  the Thorwaldsen Gallery, 149;
+  a Swedish wedding at the Frauen Kirche, 149, 150;
+  the excessive heat, 150, 153, 160;
+  sees the treasures at Rosenburg, 152;
+  M. de Kergorlay's dinner, 152, 153;
+  departure from Copenhagen, 157;
+  from Korsoe to Kiel, 157, 158;
+  arrives at Hamburg, 158;
+  view of Hamburg from the lake, 161;
+  a moonlight drive, 163;
+  leaves Hamburg, 163;
+  arrives at Cologne, 163, 164;
+  returns to Paris, 165; stays at Boulogne-sur-Mur, 167;
+  crosses to England, 167, 168;
+  inspects her future home in London, 168, 169, 170, 171;
+  visits the Monks, 172, 173, 174;
+  getting settled in London, 173, 174;
+  presented to the Queen, 175-177;
+  Windsor Castle, 177, 178;
+  has an audience of the Prince and Princess of Wales, 178, 179;
+  with the Duchess of Cambridge, 180;
+  domestic arrangements, 180, 181;
+  visits the Dowager Lady Stanley, 181;
+  talks with Mr. Gladstone, 181 182;
+  politics, 183;
+  entertained by the Prince and Princess of Wales at Sandringham, 184-186;
+  attends a hunt and hunt ball, 187, 188;
+  at Mr. Gladstone's reception, 188, 189;
+  commanded to dine and sleep at Windsor, 191-194;
+  first Drawing-room, 194-197;
+  goes to the Derby, 197;
+  to the meet of the Coaching Club and a polo game, 197, 198;
+  reception at Devonshire House, 199;
+  dinners and routs, 199, 200;
+  Lady Tweeddale's dinner, 201;
+  at the ball of the Artillery Corps, 202;
+  Drawing-room, 203, 204;
+  sees the Queen, 204, 205;
+  Westminster Abbey, 205;
+  visits Blenheim, 209;
+  conference "sur Racine," 212;
+  long Drawing-room, 213, 214;
+  visits Lady Salisbury at Hatfield 215, 216;
+  lunches with Prince and Princess of Wales, 216;
+  at Lord Aberdeen's hay-making party, 216, 217;
+  Court concert, 217;
+  spends Sunday at the Stanhopes, 218, 219;
+  London fog, 221;
+  Christmas shopping, 222, 224;
+  farewell dinner to Nigra, 223;
+  celebrates Christmas, 225, 226;
+  impressions of a Roman Christmas, 227;
+  visits at Knowsley, 227, 228-232;
+  portraits and literary treasures at Knowsley, 229, 230;
+  visits the Falbes at Luton, 232-234;
+  St. Paul's, 234;
+  gives dinners, 234, 235;
+  attends the opening of Parliament, 235-238;
+  at Windsor Castle again, 238, 239;
+  drives to the Mausoleum, 239;
+  spends Sunday at the Karolyis at Clieveden, 240, 241;
+  defeat of the French troops at Tonkin, 241;
+  interesting old manuscripts at Roll's Court, 242;
+  Lady Ashburton's house, 242;
+  at the Opera, 242, 243;
+  visits the Tecks, 243, 244;
+  presented to the Queen of the Sandwich Islands, 245-247;
+  preparations for the Jubilee, 245, 247, 248;
+  arranges to see the cortége immediately after the service in
+         Westminster Abbey, 245-248;
+  the Jubilee Te Deum, 248-250;
+  the procession after the service, 250, 251;
+  the reception at the Palace, 251-253;
+  the children's fête in Hyde Park, 253, 254;
+  at the Rosebery's ball, 255, 256;
+  the Palace ball, 256, 257;
+  receives the Jubilee Medal, 257;
+  the Naval Review, 259-264;
+  aboard the Iphigénie, 261-263;
+  skating, 266;
+  funeral service for the German Emperor, 267;
+  at the Smiths' political reception, 269, 270;
+  musicales, 270-273, 276;
+  meets Princess Mary, 275;
+  sightseeing, 276-278;
+  christens a torpilleur, 278;
+  races at Ascot, 279;
+  visits the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, 280-282;
+  death of the Emperor Frederick, 282;
+  dines with the Lord Mayor, 283, 284;
+  production of a play by Berquin, 284-286;
+  decides to go to Scotland, 286;
+  the journey to Edinburgh, 287;
+  sightseeing in Edinburgh, 287, 288;
+  arrives at Oban, 288;
+  Scottish tartans, 289;
+  by sea to Arishaig, 290, 291;
+  stays at Inveraylort, 291-295;
+  returns to London, 296;
+  goes through Petticoat Lane with Canon Rogers, 298, 299;
+  the People's Palace, 300;
+  at the Court Ball, 300, 301;
+  the Shah's arrival by water, 301, 302;
+  the luncheon party at Hatfield in the Shah's honour, 302-304;
+  wedding of Princess Louise and the Duke of Fife, 305;
+  skates at Hatfield, 306, 307;
+  and at Wimbledon, 307;
+  attends a horse sale, 308, 309;
+  at Windsor, 310-313;
+  sees "Charlie's Aunt," 313;
+  luncheon with the Empress Frederick, 314;
+  with Lady Northcote at the Opera, 314, 315;
+  the children's comedy, 315 _et seq._;
+  formal entry of the German Emperor William II. into London, 323, 324;
+  reception of the Emperor and Empress, 325, 326;
+  Garden Party at Marlborough House, 326;
+  goes to the luncheon at Hatfield for the German Emperor, 328-332;
+  places son in a French school, 332;
+  sickness and death of Prince Eddie, 333 _et seq._;
+  visits the British Museum, 339;
+  visits the Tecks, 340-342;
+  visits "Venice," 343;
+  excursion to Herkomer's studio, 344-346;
+  opens the bazaar, 346, 347;
+  gives a dinner of organists, 348;
+  arranges a "toy symphony," 350-352;
+  at the Italian Embassy, 352, 377;
+  the Salvation Army, 353;
+  English women in politics, 355;
+  dines with the Gladstones to meet the Archbishop of Canterbury, 355,
+          356;
+  band of the "Garde Républicaine," 357;
+  visits the Dufferins at Walmer Castle, 358-360;
+  last outings, 361;
+  leaves for the Tyrol, 361;
+  returns to England, 362;
+  says good-bye to Princess Mary and Princess May, 362;
+  hears Mr. Gladstone's speech on Ireland, 363;
+  farewell visits, 363, 364;
+  farewell dinner for M. Waddington at the Mansion House, 364-367;
+  last visit to Windsor, 368, 369;
+  last Drawing-room, 369;
+  farewell audience from Queen Victoria, 370-372;
+  at the French bazaar, 373, 374;
+  a musical afternoon at Mlle. Humlicher's, 374, 375;
+  presented with a jewel, 375, 376;
+  entertains Princess Mary and Princess May, 377, 378;
+  visits Princess Louise and Alma Tadema, 379;
+  Easter Service in Westminster Abbey, 379, 380;
+  in the Temple Church, Turkish Embassy, 380;
+  departure from London, 381-383;
+  arrival in Paris, 383;
+  hears the Wagner operas at Bayreuth, 384, 385;
+  visits Mary de Bunsen, 386;
+  goes to the opera in Wiesbaden, 386, 387;
+  received by the Empress Frederick at Cronberg, 387-390;
+  at Cowes, 391 _et seq._;
+  meets the Prince and Princess of Wales at Cowes, 393-395;
+  visits the Empress Eugénie, 395, 396;
+  aboard the Nahma, 397;
+  a long audience with the Queen at Osborne, 397-400
+
+Waddington, Richard, 7 _et passim_
+
+Waddington, M. William, report of his appointment as Ambassador to
+            Vienna, 4;
+  appointed Ambassador Extraordinary at Moscow to represent France at
+            the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 4-6;
+  personnel of the Mission, 7;
+  has an audience from the Emperor of Germany, 17, 19;
+  visits Bismarck, 17, 18, 21;
+  received by Emperor Alexander, 35, 36;
+  at the reception of the Arch Duke and Duchess Albert of Austria,
+            56-58;
+  at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 42 _et seq._;
+  farewell audience with the Emperor, 99;
+  studies the medals at the Museum in Petersburg, 113, 115, 116, 118,
+              123;
+  his capacity for work, 122;
+  visits the Ministre des Affaires Etrangères at Stockholm, 139, 140;
+  received by the King of Sweden, 142, 143;
+  examines the medals in the Museum at Copenhagen, 146, 148, 149, 154,
+              155, 156;
+  dines with Gladstone, 168;
+  entertained by Lord Granville, 170, 171;
+  shoots with Charles Monk, 172-174;
+  audience with the Prince and Princess of Wales, 178, 179;
+  at Windsor Castle, 191-193, 238;
+  goes to Paris, 198;
+  meets old friends, 207;
+  sees the Oxford and Cambridge boat race, 207;
+  follows Sir Walter Raleigh's example, 207, 208;
+  goes to Paris, 208;
+  talks with the Queen, 214;
+  shoots at Knowsley, 229;
+  talks with Lecky on Ireland, 229;
+  dislike of dancing, 274;
+  bids at a horse sale, 308, 309;
+  at Windsor, 311, 312;
+  dines at Mr. Murray's with Mr. Gladstone, 315;
+  death of his mother, _n._, 325;
+  at the luncheon at Hatfield for the German Emperor, 328-332;
+  at the funeral of Prince Eddie, 337;
+  talks with Lady Salisbury, 346;
+  given a farewell dinner at the Mansion House, 364-367;
+  farewell visit to Windsor, 368, 369;
+  Directeur du Canal Suez, 382
+
+Wagner, Mdme., 389
+
+Wagner, Richard, 345
+
+Wagram, Princesse de, on Boulanger, 268
+
+Waldemar de Danemark, Prince, 93, 98, 203
+
+Wales, Prince and Princess of, 37;
+  receive the Waddingtons, 178, 179;
+  entertain at Sandringham, 184-186;
+  at Buckingham Palace, 195;
+  in House of Lords, 201;
+  at the ball given by the Artillery Corps, 202;
+  Drawing-room, 203;
+  visit to Ireland, 210;
+  at the opening of Parliament, 236-238;
+  at the Opera, 243;
+  at the Jubilee Te Deum, 249, 250;
+  at the children's fête, 253-255;
+  driving, 276;
+  open the Court Ball, 300, 301;
+  at Hatfield, 303, 304, 329-331;
+  at the children's comedy, 320-322;
+  their popularity, 327;
+  death of Prince Eddie, 334;
+  bid farewell to the Waddingtons, 363, 364;
+  at Cowes, 393 _et seq._
+
+Warren, Mrs., 396
+
+Warren, Sir Charles, 246, 247
+
+Wantage, Lord and Lady, 358
+
+Warsoe, M., 151, 152
+
+Waru, military attaché, 226, 259
+
+Wellington, Lord, 358
+
+Westminster, Duchess of, 274
+
+White, Harry, 218, 314
+
+White, Muriel, 317, 318
+
+Whitehouse, Harry, 145, 147
+
+Wilhemi, 345
+
+William I., Emperor, gives an audience to M. Waddington, 17, 19;
+  death, 266;
+  funeral service, 267
+
+William II., Emperor, as Crown Prince, 267;
+  State Banquet for, 323;
+  formal entry into London, 323, 324;
+  at the Opera, 325;
+  receives at Buckingham Palace, 325, 326;
+  goes to the Lord Mayor's Banquet, 327;
+  rides in the Row, 327;
+  given a luncheon at Hatfield, 328-331;
+  returns to Germany, 331
+
+Williams, Florence, 226, 348
+
+Wilson, Sir Rivers, 276
+
+Wimborne, Lord, 354, 379
+
+Wladimir, Grand Duchess, 61, 80
+
+Wladimir, Grand Duke, at the coronation of his brother,
+        Emperor Alexander, 66;
+  at the Court ball, 74, 75;
+  his care for the Emperor, 77;
+  at the Palace ball, 86;
+  at the revue, 103
+
+Wolff, Johannes, 270-272, 276, 314
+
+Wolseley, General, 58, 89
+
+Wormser, 314
+
+Worontzoff, Count, 77, 80, 116
+
+Wurts, George, 120
+
+Wyckham, Col., 147
+
+Wyndham, 286
+
+
+York, Duke of, 363, 393, 397
+
+Yves, 190
+
+
+Xenia, Grand Duchess, 45
+
+
+Zuylen, Mdme. de, 274
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes: The following spelling corrections were made:
+
+p. 23: "I said I would come with pleassure" changed to read "I said I
+would come with pleasure".
+
+p. 28: "generally a collection of litttle" changed to read "generally a
+collection of little".
+
+p. 34: "they all wear red flannnel" changed to read "they all wear red
+flannel".
+
+p. 69: "As soon the the Sovereigns had taken" changed to read "As soon
+as the Sovereigns had taken".
+
+p. 109: "where the suppper" changed to read "where the supper".
+
+p. 110: "I took a last look at the black Madonnna" changed to read "I
+took a last look at the black Madonna".
+
+p. 111: "how we managed to eat chicken and mayonnaaise" changed to read
+"how we managed to eat chicken and mayonnaise".
+
+p. 118: "We have just come in from a pleasant dinner at the Juarès"
+changed to read "We have just come in from a pleasant dinner at the
+Jaurès".
+
+"Admiral Juarès was very hospitable" changed to read "Admiral Jaurès was
+very hospitable".
+
+p. 142: "there are always babauds hanging over" changed to read "there
+are always badauds hanging over".
+
+All instances of "cortege" and "cortège" were changed to "cortége".
+
+Small Caps denoted by "#" and Italics by "_".
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, by 
+Mary King Waddington
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE ***
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+
+Project Gutenberg's Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, by Mary King Waddington
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Letters of a Diplomat's Wife
+       1883-1900
+
+Author: Mary King Waddington
+
+Release Date: February 10, 2012 [EBook #38825]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Wayne Hammond and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="transnote">
+<p>Transcriber's Note: The following spelling corrections were made:</p>
+
+<p>p. 23: "I said I would come with pleassure" changed to read "I said I
+would come with pleasure"</p>
+
+<p>p. 28:  "generally a collection of litttle" changed to read "generally a
+collection of little"</p>
+
+<p>p. 34: "they all wear red flannnel" changed to read "they all wear red
+flannel"</p>
+
+<p>p. 69: "As soon the the Sovereigns had taken" changed to read "As soon
+as the Sovereigns had taken"</p>
+
+<p>p. 109: "where the suppper" changed to read "where the supper"</p>
+
+<p>p. 110: "I took a last look at the black Madonnna" changed to read "I
+took a last look at the black Madonna"</p>
+
+<p>p. 111: "how we managed to eat chicken and mayonnaaise" changed to read
+"how we managed to eat chicken and mayonnaise"</p>
+
+<p>p. 118: "We have just come in from a pleasant dinner at the
+Juar&egrave;s" changed to read "We have just come in from a pleasant
+dinner at the Jaur&egrave;s"</p>
+
+<p>"Admiral Juar&egrave;s was very hospitable" changed to read "Admiral
+Jaur&egrave;s was very hospitable"</p>
+
+<p>p. 142: "there are always babauds hanging over" changed to read "there
+are always badauds hanging over"</p>
+
+<p>All instances of "cortege" and "cort&egrave;ge" were changed to "cort&eacute;ge"</p>
+</div>
+
+<div style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus001.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Mary King Waddington drawing." id="illus001" title="Mary King Waddington drawing.">
+</a></div>
+
+
+<div style="width:100%"><img src="images/illus002.png" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Mary King Waddington signature." title="Mary King Waddington signature.">
+</div>
+
+
+<h1>LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE</h1>
+
+<h2>1883-1900</h2>
+
+<h3>BY</h3>
+<h2>MARY KING WADDINGTON</h2>
+
+<h3>ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS</h3>
+
+<h2>SMITH, ELDER &amp; CO. LONDON</h2>
+<hr>
+<h3>1903</h3>
+
+
+
+
+<h3>Copyright, 1903, by Charles Scribner's Sons for the United States of America</h3>
+<hr>
+<h3>Printed by the Trow Directory, Printing and Bookbinding Company New York, U. S. A.</h3>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h2>INTRODUCTORY NOTE</h2>
+
+<h2>BY THE COLLECTOR OF THE LETTERS</h2>
+
+
+<p>Mary Alsop King Waddington is a daughter
+of the late Charles King, President of Columbia College
+in the City of New York from 1849 to 1864, and a
+granddaughter of Rufus King, the second Minister sent
+to England by the United States after the adoption of
+the Constitution.</p>
+
+<p>Miss King was educated in this country. In 1871,
+after the death of her father, she went, with her mother
+and sisters, to live in France, and in 1874 became the
+wife of M. William Henry Waddington.</p>
+
+<p>M. Waddington was born in Normandy, France, in
+1826. His grandfather was an Englishman who had
+established cotton manufactories in France, and had become
+a naturalised French citizen. The grandson, however,
+was educated first in a Paris <em>lyc&eacute;e</em>, then at Rugby,
+and later at Trinity College, Cambridge. As an undergraduate
+he rowed in the Cambridge boat in the University
+race of 1849. Soon after leaving the University,
+M. Waddington returned to France and entered public
+life. In 1871 he was elected a representative from the
+Department of the Aisne to the National Assembly, and
+two years afterward was appointed Minister of Public
+Instruction in place of M. Jules Simon. In January,
+1876, he was elected a senator for the Department of
+the Aisne, and two months later again became Minister
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_vi" title="pg vi"> </a>
+of Public Instruction. In December, 1877, he accepted
+the portfolio of Minister of Foreign Affairs.</p>
+
+<p>M. Waddington was the first plenipotentiary of
+France to the Congress of Berlin in 1878. On February
+4, 1879, he became President of the Council (Premier),
+retiring the following December. In the winter of 1879-1880
+he refused the offer of the London Embassy. In
+May, 1883, he was sent as Ambassador-Extraordinary to
+represent France at the coronation of the Czar Alexander
+III at Moscow, and upon his return from Russia
+was appointed Ambassador at the Court of St. James
+to succeed M. Tissot. He held this post until 1893,
+and died in Paris in the following year.</p>
+
+<p>Mme. Waddington accompanied her husband on his
+missions to both England and Russia. The letters collected
+in this volume were written during the period
+of her husband's diplomatic service to describe to her
+sisters the personages and incidents of her official life.
+About a fourth part of their number have lately been
+published in <em>Scribner's Magazine</em>; with this exception,
+the letters are now given to the public for the first time.</p>
+
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Tompkins McIlvaine.</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">New York</span>, April 1, 1903.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_vii" title="pg vii"> </a></p>
+
+
+<table class="list" id="illustrations">
+<caption>ILLUSTRATIONS</caption>
+
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus001">Portrait of Madame Waddington</a></span></td>
+<td><em>Frontispiece</em></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdr">FACING PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus044">Colonel Benckendorff</a></span><br >
+<em>From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_34">34</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus078">The Emperor Crowning the Empress. Church de
+l'Assomption</a></span></td>
+<td><a href="#page_66">66</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus082">Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes</a></span></td>
+<td><a href="#page_68">68</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus120">Grand Duc Wladimir</a></span><br >
+<em>From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_104">104</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus160">M. William Waddington</a></span><br >
+<em>From a copyright photograph by Russell &amp; Son.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_142">142</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus188">The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London</a></span> </td>
+<td><a href="#page_168">168</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus194">The Dining-room of the French Embassy, London, Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries</a></span></td>
+<td><a href="#page_172">172</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus202">J. J. Jusserand, Counsellor of the French Embassy</a></span><br>
+<em>Recently appointed French Ambassador to the United States. From a photograph by Walery, Paris.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_178">178</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+	<td class="tdtxt"><a href="#illus206"><span class="smcap">The Duchess of Cambridge</span> </a><br><em>From a photograph by Walery, London.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_180">180</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus220">Windsor Castle</a></span></td>
+<td><a href="#page_192">192</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus228">M. and Mme. Waddington and Their Son</a></span><br>
+<em>From a photograph by Cesar, Paris.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_198">198</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus242">The Salon of the French Embassy in London</a></span></td>
+<td><a href="#page_210">210</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus250">Lady Salisbury</a></span></td>
+<td><a href="#page_216">216</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus264">Knowsley Hall</a></span><br>
+<em>The Earl of Derby's place at Prescot, Lancashire.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_228">228</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus270">The Late Earl of Derby</a></span><br>
+<em>From a photograph by Franz Baum, London.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_232">232</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus280">The Countess Fanny Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassadress</a></span><br>
+<em>From a photograph by Walery, London.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_240">240</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus292">Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the
+State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887</a></span><br>
+<em>From a photograph, copyright, by Hughes &amp; Mullins, Ryde, England.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_250">250</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus298">The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the
+Uniform Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, London, June, 1887</a></span><br>
+<em>From a photograph by Loescher &amp; Petsch, Berlin.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_254">254</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus308">Comtesse de Florian</a></span><br>
+<em>From a photograph by Walery, London.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_262">262</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus352">Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the Shah of Persia, July 8, 1889</a></span><br>
+<em>From a photograph by Russell &amp; Sons, London.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_304">304</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus356">Lord Salisbury</a></span><br>
+<em>From a photograph by Lambert Weston &amp; Son, Dover.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_306">306</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+	<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus372">A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy</a></span><br>
+<em>From a photograph by Barker &amp; Pragnell, London.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_320">320</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus442">The Empress Frederick, Wearing the Order of the Black Eagle</a></span><br>
+<em>The last portrait of the Empress by the artist Angeli.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_388">388</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtxt"><span class="smcap"><a href="#illus448">Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of
+Wight</a></span><br>
+<em>From a photograph by Broderick.</em></td>
+<td><a href="#page_392">392</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_1" title="pg 1"> </a></p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h1>LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE</h1>
+
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_3" title="pg 3"> </a></p>
+
+
+
+<h2>PART I</h2>
+
+<h2>THE CORONATION OF THE CZAR</h2>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S</em>.</h3>
+
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Paris</span>,<br >
+31, Rue Dumont d'Urville,<br >
+March 15, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>Our breakfast at the English Embassy was most interesting.
+I began by refusing on account of my mourning,
+but Lord Lyons wrote me a nice note saying that
+there would be no one but the L&eacute;on Says and Mr. and
+Mrs. Gladstone, so I accepted. I was very anxious to
+see Mr. Gladstone.</p>
+
+<p>We had a pretty little breakfast upstairs in the small
+dining-room, and the talk at table was most interesting.
+I thought Mrs. Gladstone looked older than her
+husband. He of course did most of the talking. He
+has a fine voice, bright, keen, dark eyes, holds himself
+very erect, and apparently knows everything about
+everything. When the men were smoking after breakfast
+I had quite a talk with Mrs. Gladstone, who told
+me about the murder of Lord Frederick Cavendish.
+She said her husband heard it at a big London party,
+and had to go and tell Lady Frederick. Mr. Gladstone
+was more upset by the whole thing (and the having to
+tell the unfortunate wife) than she had ever seen him.
+Il y avait de quoi, for even here in Paris, where <em>outside</em>
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_4" title="pg 4"> </a>
+questions don't trouble them very much, there was great
+excitement when the news came.</p>
+
+<p>I had a nice talk with Plunkett, who congratulated me
+on W.'s<sup><a href="#fn1" id="r1">[1]</a></sup> appointment as Ambassador to Vienna. I told
+him there was no truth in the report (they had offered
+it to W., but he won't hear of it), and I think he is quite
+right. He has no particular <em>attaches</em> at Vienna. He
+knows German well, but doesn't speak it absolutely perfectly,
+and hasn't really the social talents that one needs
+in Vienna. They ought to send a dashing general, or a
+courtier, not a serious savant.</p>
+
+<p>We certainly are leading different lives. I am wrapped
+in my fur coat, and driving in a shut carriage. Your
+tea in the garden sends a shiver through me. It sounds
+quite romantic having the son of the "Roi des Montagnes"
+to breakfast. I wonder if I shall ever see
+Athens; W. says when I do that I will never care again
+for Rome; that colouring and ruins are far superior in
+Greece. I almost think in that case I would rather remain
+under my present impression of dear, beautiful
+Rome, not quite like our American friend, who thought
+"the Colosseum was pretty, but she liked the Court-House
+at St. Louis better."</p>
+
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Paris</span>,<br >
+Sunday, March 18, 1883.<br ></p>
+
+
+<p>I will write a little this morning, Dear&mdash;I am just back
+from l'&Eacute;toile. I have had rather an agitated week, and
+here is my news, good&mdash;bad&mdash;I don't know myself. W.
+is going as Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow to
+represent France at the Coronation of the Emperor Alexander.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_5" title="pg 5"> </a>
+It was a "bolt from the blue" to us. I will tell
+you from the beginning. We went to ride as usual
+Thursday morning, but rather earlier than usual (9.30).
+When we came home Mdme. Hubert told us we hadn't
+been gone ten minutes, when le Ministre des Affaires
+&Eacute;trang&egrave;res (Challemel-Lacour) came to see W., was
+much discomposed at not finding him, and told Mdme.
+H. he would come back at 11. He didn't reappear, but
+one of the young attach&eacute;s did, with a note from Challemel
+begging W. to come and see him directly after
+breakfast. We couldn't think what he wanted, but we
+both made up our minds it was to insist on the Vienna
+Embassy. I protested, and I think W. would not have
+taken it.</p>
+
+<p>I went out in the afternoon with Anne to try on a dress
+at Redfern's, and just as we were coming away W. appeared.
+He had seen the carriage at the door and knew
+he would find us. He looked rather preoccupied, so I
+said, "You are not surely going to Vienna?"</p>
+
+<p>"No, not to Vienna, probably to Russia, for the Coronation."</p>
+
+<p>I was too bewildered at first to take it in, and I must
+frankly say I was wretched. Of course he asked 24
+hours to think it over, though the Minister urged him
+very much to accept at once. Challemel also wishes me
+to go, says a woman gives more &eacute;clat to an Embassy.
+Of course it will be a magnificent sight, but I am a perfect
+poltroon&mdash;I am so afraid they will take advantage
+of that crowd to blow up everybody. However, if that
+should happen it would be better to be blown up together,
+but I really am nervous (I am not usually such a
+coward, but Russian Nihilists and dynamiters are terrible
+elements to contend with), and wish they hadn't asked
+him to go.</p>
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_6" title="pg 6"> </a></p>
+
+<p>Of course it is a great honour and compliment to W.'s
+personal position, and I have given no opinion, but I
+don't feel happy at all. I have always said that I would
+never try to influence my husband's actions (public) in
+any way, and I suppose I have kept to that as well as
+most women do who marry public men, but I should like
+to put a decided veto now. I will keep you au courant of
+the decision.</p>
+
+<p class="author">March 20th.</p>
+
+<p>Well, Dear, it is quite decided. W. accepts to go to
+Moscow, and takes me with him. He consulted his
+brother and his friends and all told him he could not refuse.
+As long as they didn't send a soldier (W. himself
+would have asked Mar&eacute;chal MacMahon to go, if he had
+been at the Foreign Office), he was "tout indiqu&eacute;."
+<sup><a href="#fn2" id="r2">[2]</a></sup> It
+seems all the other Powers are going to send Princes&mdash;Spain,
+the Duc de Montpensier; England, the Duke of
+Edinburgh; Italy, the Duc d'Aoste, etc.</p>
+
+<p>We are to start somewhere about the 8th or 10th of
+May. W. is busy now composing his Mission. Of course
+everybody wants to go. It seems such an undertaking.
+We had a nice ride this morning&mdash;various people riding
+with us, and all talking about the Coronation. I overheard
+one timid old gentleman saying to W., "Vous emmenez
+votre femme? Vous avez tort; on ne sait pas ce
+qui peut arriver"&mdash;not very reassuring.</p>
+
+<p class="author">April 1st.</p>
+
+<p>My Dear, my letters will now become monotonous,
+as I have only one idea&mdash;the Mission. All the arrangements
+are being made, such an affair. W. has sent off
+a man to Moscow to see about a house big enough to
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_7" title="pg 7"> </a>
+hold all the party, with ballroom, and large dining-room
+We are 9 people&mdash;W. and I; Comte de Pont&eacute;coulant,
+Ministre Pl&eacute;nipotentiaire (W.'s ancien Chef de Cabinet);
+G&eacute;n&eacute;ral Pitti&eacute; (G&eacute;n&eacute;ral de Division, chef de la maison
+militaire du Pr&eacute;sident de la R&eacute;publique); Colonel
+Comte de Sesmaisons, commandant les 6&egrave;me hussards;
+Fran&ccedil;ois de Corcelle, Secr&eacute;taire d'Ambassade;
+Commandant Fayet (de la maison du Pr&eacute;sident&mdash;Jules
+Gr&eacute;vy); Richard Waddington, D&eacute;put&eacute;, Capitaine
+dans l'arm&eacute;e territoriale; Robert Calmon, lieutenant
+dans l'arm&eacute;e territoriale. L'uniforme est absolument
+n&eacute;cessaire en Russie.</p>
+
+<p>We have three servants&mdash;W.'s valet Joseph and my
+two maids Adela&iuml;de and Mdme. Hubert. All the gentlemen
+have their servants. Then there is Pierson, the
+huissier from the Quai d'Orsay (you know whom I mean,
+the big man who wears a gilt chain, announces the people,
+and writes down names, etc.), two cooks with one or
+two gar&ccedil;ons de cuisine; 3 coachmen, Hubert of course,
+and two Englishmen. One, Mr. Leroy, such a magnificent
+person, came this morning to see W. He has already
+repr&eacute;sent&eacute; on several occasions, and driven gala
+carriages, etc. He seems graciously inclined to go with
+us (with very high wages, and making his conditions&mdash;will
+drive only the Ambassador and Ambassadress in the
+gala carriage, etc.). That will necessitate very delicate
+negotiations with Hubert, who also wishes to drive only
+the Ambassador and me. However, as he has never
+driven a gala carriage, and they are very heavy, unwieldy
+vehicles to manage, I think he must waive his claim.</p>
+
+<p class="author">April 10th.</p>
+
+<p>There has also been a long consultation about horses,
+how many for the gala carriage. When Mar&eacute;chal MacMahon
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_8" title="pg 8"> </a>
+went as Ambassador Extraordinary to the Emperor
+of Germany's Coronation he had six horses and
+running footmen (it seems there must be six or two&mdash;four
+are not allowed. Four would be too sporting&mdash;not
+serious enough). We have four enormous footmen,
+and one ordinary sized one for every-day use&mdash;2 gala
+carriages, and a coup&eacute; d'Orsay, which must be painted
+dark blue with white stripes, our colours.</p>
+
+<p class="author">April 12th.</p>
+
+<p>We are getting on slowly. The horse question is
+settled&mdash;no one has more than two, so we take 9
+enormous carrossiers. Hawes is commissioned to get
+them. They could not be found anywhere in France.
+I forget the exact height (as big as they make them),
+but he promises to get them from England, or the
+Luxembourg, where it seems they have a special breed
+of enormous, heavy coach horses.</p>
+
+<p>We had a most satisfactory interview this morning
+with M. Lhermite, the head man of the great restaurant,
+Potel &amp; Chabot. W. had been rather bothered about
+a head man, or major domo, who could take charge of
+the whole household. Our Joseph is not very brilliant&mdash;he
+does W.'s service, and can look after an ordinary
+household, but would not be at all up to the mark in
+this case. Lhermite heard that W. was looking for
+someone, so he came and volunteered to go with us,
+and superintend everything. He was so well dressed
+and had such good manners that W. rather demurred,
+and thought he was above the place; however Lhermite
+pressed it very much, and wound up by saying, "J'ai
+&eacute;t&eacute; cuisinier moi-m&ecirc;me, Monsieur, personne ne vous
+servira mieux que moi." So it was settled, and he has
+full powers to engage cooks, scullions, etc.</p>
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_9" title="pg 9"> </a></p>
+
+<p>The man who went to Moscow has just sent us the
+plan of the house which he has found. It seems large
+and handsome, a good entrance, marble staircase, large
+ballroom and dining-room, and sufficient bedrooms. It
+calls itself "Maison Klein," not a palace; and is evidently
+the house of a rich Jew.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, May 6th.</p>
+
+<p>I am glad to have a day of rest, Dear. I didn't even
+get up for church. The standing at the dressmaker's
+is something awful. Yesterday I tried 12 dresses
+(finished), 6 at Delannoy's before breakfast, and 6 at
+Philippe's afterwards. They are all handsome&mdash;I think
+the Court dresses will be handsome. The principal one
+for the day of the Coronation is sapphire blue satin
+embroidered all round the train (3 m&egrave;tres long), with a
+beautiful wreath of flowers in chenille, and silk, and gold
+and silver leaves; very showy, in fact rather clinquant
+(not at all like me), but they said I must have "des toilettes
+&agrave; effet qui seraient remarqu&eacute;es." The under-dress
+is salmon pink satin, the front all covered with flowers
+to match the embroidery. I shall wear blue feathers
+(short ones) in my hair. I am happy to say that the
+regulation white waving plumes of the English Court
+are not de rigueur in Russia. The other train is a pale
+pink satin with raised dark red flowers and velvet leaves,
+all the front my old point de Venise flounces which look
+handsome. I suppose I shall take about 18 dresses in all.</p>
+
+<p>I have just had a nice visit from Prince Orloff, Russian
+Ambassador here, who is a great friend of ours, and who
+was very anxious from the first that I should go. I
+confided to him that I was very nervous and uncomfortable.
+I don't mind so much in the day time when I
+am seeing quantities of people, and interested in the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_10" title="pg 10"> </a>
+preparations; but I don't sleep, and have visions of the
+Kremlin being blown up, and all sorts of horrors. As
+Richard<sup><a href="#fn3" id="r3">[3]</a></sup>
+goes with us too, I have made W. appoint a
+guardian for Francis, as Henrietta and Anne could hardly
+bring up a Frenchman, and after all we may none of us
+ever come back.</p>
+
+<p>Henrietta was reduced to tears this morning when W.
+gave her the key of his secr&eacute;taire, and said his will and
+last directions were there, in case anything happened to
+him&mdash;cheerful preparations for a festive journey.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Tuesday, May 8, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>Our boxes and cases are being packed, and the house
+is a curiosity&mdash;crowded with every conceivable thing.
+My two maids (I take Mdme. Hubert too, as Adela&iuml;de is
+not very strong, and if she gave out I should be in a bad
+way) are much taken up with their outfit. They each
+have two sets of new things, a blue serge costume and
+coat for travelling, and a black silk for their gala
+occasions. Pont&eacute;coulant is always teasing Mdme. Hubert,
+and asking if "ses toilettes sont pr&ecirc;tes."</p>
+
+<p>This morning I saw the 9 gigantic horses which were
+paraded under the windows. They started to-night, as
+they must rest at Berlin. M. Lhermite is a treasure.
+He also starts to-night with his cooks and provisions of
+all kinds. W. and Pont&eacute;coulant gave him all their instructions,
+and then he came for mine. I told him I
+must have my maids in the room next to me, and as we
+had a plan of the house, it is quite easy. I have a fair-sized
+bedroom and dressing-room (which he will arrange
+as a sort of boudoir) on the court (no living rooms are
+on the street), and the maids a large room opening out
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_11" title="pg 11"> </a>
+of the dressing-room. He is eminently practical; takes
+charge of the whole personnel, will arrange a sort of
+dormitory for all the men servants; will see that they are
+ready in time, clean and well turned out.</p>
+
+<p>Pont&eacute;coulant, who is also very practical, overlooks
+that part of the business; also the stables, and Mr. Leroy
+and Lhermite will report to him every morning. Leroy
+has also just been in, much pleased with his gala carriage
+and liveries. Hubert is beaming, and most particular
+about his lace jabot and ruffles. I wonder how they will
+all ever settle down to our quiet life again.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, 10th.</p>
+
+<p>I will finish this afternoon, Dear. I am ready to start,
+dressed in my travelling dress, dark blue cloth, with a
+long coat lined with red satin, and a black hat with blue
+feathers (I haven't got on the coat and hat yet). There
+has been such a procession of people all day, and great
+vans to carry off the luggage. I have been rather
+bothered about my jewels&mdash;how to carry them. I have
+taken everything the family own. Anne's necklace, with
+some extra stones I had, has been converted into a tiara.
+All the Russian women wear their National coiffure at
+the Coronation, the Kakoshnik. As that is very high,
+studded with jewels, any ordinary arrangement of stars
+and feathers would look insignificant. Freddy, who is
+an authority on such matters, advised me to concentrate
+all my efforts on the tiara&mdash;he also suggested ropes of
+pearls (artificial) but I couldn't make up my mind to
+that. Chemin, the jeweller, was very anxious I should
+"louer" a sort of breastplate of diamonds&mdash;but on the
+whole I preferred taking less&mdash;merely mine and the
+sisters'. What I shall do if they are stolen or lost I am
+sure I don't know. I don't care to carry them myself
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_12" title="pg 12"> </a>
+in a bag, as I never by any chance carry my bag, I
+should certainly leave it somewhere; and I don't like
+to give it to the maids either, so I have put all the jewels
+in two trunks, scattered about the fond, wrapped up with
+silk stockings, etc.</p>
+
+<p>I have given my last instructions to Nounou, and a
+nice young coachman who comes to replace Hubert in
+our absence, and also provided a surprise for baby in the
+shape of a large train, which will distract him the first
+days. We saw also this morning the detective who goes
+with us. He is one of those who always accompany the
+foreign Princes who pass through Paris, and is said to
+know well all the great nihilist leaders (all of whom he
+says will be at the Coronation). He has two ordinary
+policemen with him. They go of course on the
+train with us, and never lose sight of us. I shall feel
+rather like a distinguished criminal being tracked across
+Europe.</p>
+
+<p>Pont&eacute;coulant is very funny over Philippe the coiffeur,
+who presented himself at the Quai d'Orsay, and insisted
+upon being included in the suite (consequently travelling
+free of expense on the special trains, etc., with us). He
+really isn't my coiffeur&mdash;I never have anyone except
+Georges from time to time, but I daresay I shall be glad
+to have him. He said to Pont&eacute;coulant, "Monsieur le
+Comte comprend bien qu'il faut que je pose le diad&egrave;me
+de Madame l'Ambassadrice le jour du Couronnement;"
+however he has gained his point, and Madame l'Ambassadrice
+takes her own coiffeur with her, as well as her
+two maids.</p>
+
+<p>Well, Dear, we are going in an hour, and I must try
+and reason with myself, and not be the arrant coward I
+really feel like.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_13" title="pg 13"> </a></p>
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Kaiserhof, Berlin</span>,<br >
+Saturday, May 12th, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>Here we are, having accomplished our journey so far
+most comfortably. We arrived last night about 9, and
+this morning I am unpacking a little, and settling myself,
+as we shall stay four or five days. Our departure from
+the Gare du Nord Thursday night was a curiosity. We
+got rather early to the station, as W. was preoccupied
+with the baggage, and besides there were last words to
+say to all the people who came to see us off. Henrietta,
+rather tearful, came with us to the station&mdash;Francis was
+so engrossed with his new railway train that was careering
+round on beautiful green rails in his father's study,
+that he was quite indifferent. The whole quai was filled
+with boxes and trunks labelled "Waddington, Moscow,"
+and when you think that all the soldiers took their saddles
+and trappings of all kinds, and what the stable alone
+represented, 2 enormous gala carriages, one coup&eacute;
+d'Orsay, and all the heavy harness and servants' liveries,
+you can imagine what an excitement there was until
+everything was put on board.</p>
+
+<p>We started, however, fairly punctually&mdash;W. and I had
+a lit-salon, with cabinet de toilette; the two maids and
+W.'s man next door, and Sesmaisons and Fran&ccedil;ois de
+Corcelle (the only two who came with us, the rest of
+the Mission joins us Tuesday at Berlin), had their coup&eacute;
+next to ours. There were all sorts of last directions to
+be given to Pont&eacute;coulant, and to poor Henrietta, who
+remains in charge of Francis.</p>
+
+<p>I slept pretty well all night, as you know I am a good
+traveller, and about 7 Adela&iuml;de came in to arrange me
+a little, as we were to breakfast at Cologne (where we
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_14" title="pg 14"> </a>
+were due at 8 o'clock) with our consul there, and also
+the consul at D&uuml;sseldorf, who is rather a friend of W.'s.
+We had a very good little breakfast in the private room,
+and when we started again, the Chef-de-Gare coming at
+the last moment to conduct us to our coup&eacute;, there was
+much bowing and scraping to Monsieur l'Ambassadeur
+and Mdme. l'Ambassadrice. We made quite an excitement
+at the station, and all the people who were coming
+and going in the numerous trains that passed through
+had their heads out of the windows to see what was
+going on. They had filled our coup&eacute; with papers of all
+kinds (German), illustrated and political, also a large
+bouquet for me.</p>
+
+<p>We dined at Hanover, not in a private room this time,
+but at a round table at one end of the large room. Who
+do you think came to see me? Mr. Joy; he had seen in
+the papers that we were to pass through, so he took
+himself down to the station to see if he could see us.
+I introduced him to W.&mdash;we had only time for a little
+talk, as he came rather late. He also brought papers
+and a magazine or two, so we are well supplied with
+literature for the present.</p>
+
+<p>When we arrived here at the station we found M. de
+Courcel, our Ambassador in Berlin, waiting for us with
+all his staff. He drove us at once in his carriage to the
+hotel, and said he would come in again an hour later
+and tell W. about his audiences, etc. We have beautiful
+rooms, a large salon looking on the street, dining-room,
+two good-sized bedrooms and a very good ante-room
+(where by the way Pierson, with his chain and sword
+and dress clothes, is already installed. When I came out
+of the salon just now he was there, and I rather felt as
+if I was back at the Quai d'Orsay, and he was announcing
+my visitors).</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_15" title="pg 15"> </a></p>
+
+<p>While we were talking to Courcel last night one of
+the hotel servants came in to say&mdash;would I go for one
+moment to speak to the maids, he couldn't make out
+what they wanted. I did go, but merely to tell these
+ladies that I would thank them to get along as well as
+they could, and to find a polygot waiter, or someone to
+translate for them; that I certainly was not going to
+look out for them, and they had better try and learn a
+little German.</p>
+
+<p>Courcel says the Emperor, Prince Imperial, and Bismarck
+all want to see W.&mdash;he also warns him that
+Bismarck is in an execrable humor. I don't think W.
+minds that very much. He is a very cool gentleman
+himself, and I imagine he will say all he wants to to the
+great man.</p>
+
+<p class="author">10-30.</p>
+
+<p>W. and I went for a walk before breakfast to the
+Pariser Platz to see the outside of the French Embassy;
+it looks big and imposing. We came home through
+"Unter den Linden." Berlin has much improved, and
+has much more the air of a capital than when I first saw
+it a great many years ago. Of course I was much struck
+with the quantities of soldiers one sees in the streets.
+The officers are a fine lot of men, but, like ramrods,
+so stiff; and when they are walking two or three together
+take up the whole pavement.</p>
+
+<p>Sesmaisons and Corcelle breakfasted with us&mdash;Sesmaisons
+is delighted to be back in Berlin. He was military
+attach&eacute; there at the time of the Berlin Congress,
+when St. Vallier was Ambassador, and has many friends.
+M. de Courcel came in just as we were finishing, with
+a long list for W., his audience cards, invitations, etc.
+Then came George de Bunsen with his wife and daughters.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_16" title="pg 16"> </a>
+I had never seen the ladies of the family, and
+was glad to make their acquaintance. They were very
+friendly, and we made various engagements with them.
+M. de Bunsen I had seen before in France&mdash;he is quite
+charming, very good-looking, and not at all Prussian, so
+cosmopolitan, which is always most attractive.</p>
+
+<p>W. and I went out together and paid several visits, to
+the Embassy first, where we found Mdme. de Courcel.
+The rooms are large and handsome, with good pictures
+and splendid tapestries. We took a turn in the Thiergarten,
+and the Jardin Zo&ouml;logique (where we saw an
+enormous yellow lion&mdash;a terrible beast, handsome, too).
+W. then went to see Hatzfeldt (Foreign Minister), who
+was very amiable, but said nothing in particular&mdash;none
+of Bismarck's people ever do.</p>
+
+<p>We dined early at the Embassy with all the personnel.
+The dinner was good and handsome, plenty of
+servants, lights, flowers&mdash;everything in very good style.
+While the men were smoking Mdme. de Courcel and I
+talked. She told me some of her Berlin experiences,
+and how difficult her beginnings were, but I suppose
+they always must be until one has had time to look
+around a little. We have just come home, and after
+talking a little with the gentlemen I have left them to
+their cigars and papers, and am glad to be in my own
+quarters.</p>
+
+<p>The maids have had a delightful afternoon. They
+have found a g&eacute;rant who speaks French, and who has
+taken them a little about Berlin, which they find "tr&egrave;s
+gentil." W. has his audience from the Emperor at one
+o'clock to-morrow in uniform. None of the ladies, Empress
+nor Princesses, are here, so I have nothing to do.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_17" title="pg 17"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, May 13th.</p>
+
+<p>I didn't go out this morning, but wrote and read.
+The two gentlemen breakfasted with us as usual, and a
+little before one W. went off for his audience with the
+Emperor in full uniform, which is very becoming to him.
+(He hates it as it is so heavy, with all the thick gold
+embroidery, and he is very hot and uncomfortable.)
+The audience lasted about three-quarters of an hour.
+W. was astounded at the Emperor's appearance and conversation,
+said he was au courant of everything&mdash;he said
+among other things&mdash;"Ah, vous emmenez Mme. Waddington
+&agrave; Moscow? eh bien! moi, je n'envoie pas mon
+h&eacute;ritier," adding though immediately he didn't think
+there was any danger from the Nihilists this time.</p>
+
+<p>He had barely time to get home and out of his uniform
+when Lord and Lady Ampthill arrived. They were
+quite charming, both of them. He and I plunged into
+the old Roman days, where we knew him so well as
+Odo Russell. They are great favourites here, both at
+court and with their colleagues. He spoke a great deal
+about St. Vallier, said he was the best colleague he had
+ever had.</p>
+
+<p>At four W. started again to see Bismarck (not in uniform
+this time), and I drove out to the George Bunsens'
+to have tea. They have a pretty house. Theodore
+was also there, and we had a pleasant hour. They asked
+us to come in to-morrow after our dinner at the Embassy.
+When I got back I found W. smoking in a big
+arm-chair, quite pleased with his talk with Bismarck,
+who was most amiable, had at least no "crise de nerfs"
+while he was there. He said he was very frank, almost
+brutal, in his appreciations of other countries, and particularly
+of different public men whose views didn't coincide
+directly with his, but on the whole not too offensive.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_18" title="pg 18"> </a>
+He kept him until his dinner was announced (at
+5 o'clock), and asked him to come and see him on his
+way back from Moscow, and give him his impressions;
+so apparently it is only from his own agents that he
+doesn't wish impressions. Do you remember C. writing
+to him, from the Hague, I think, the account of some
+manifestation or political crisis, and naturally saying what
+he thought about the matter; and the very curt answer
+he received from the Minister, saying he had asked for
+facts, and not for "personal appreciations." One would
+think that the opinion of the most ordinary agent on
+the spot would have a certain importance.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Tuesday, 15th.</p>
+
+<p>It is very warm&mdash;I have been out with Adela&iuml;de trying
+to get a light blouse, my cloth body is unbearable.
+Everything was shut yesterday, as it was Whit Monday.
+W. dined at the Palace at 5, Sesmaisons also. I went to
+the races with Mdme. de Courcel and some of the young
+men. It was rather amusing, a lovely day, about three
+quarters of an hour by train from Berlin. The public
+was not nearly so &eacute;l&eacute;gant as on a Paris race-course, but
+there were more pretty women, and quantities of stiff,
+arrogant officers (always en tenue).</p>
+
+<p>When we got back to the hotel at 7.30 we found W.
+at the door, just back from his dinner, so Fran&ccedil;ois de
+Corcelle and I dined t&ecirc;te-&agrave;-t&ecirc;te, and W. talked to us&mdash;said
+the dinner was good, small and easy. The Prince
+Imperial and Grand Duchess of Baden were both there.
+The Grand Duchess told W. that in a telegram received
+that morning from her mother (the Empress Augusta)
+she had said how much she regretted not seeing him,
+that she had always watched his career with great interest,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_19" title="pg 19"> </a>
+and was very glad to see him coming to the front
+again.</p>
+
+<p>The Emperor talked about everything&mdash;France; England;
+the religious question in France; he believed French
+women of all classes were clerical, and under the influence
+of the priests, so naturally they could have no
+sympathy with a liberal government, "which is a pity, it
+is a mistake to have the women against you." We had
+an audience with the Prince Imperial after dinner, which
+was pleasant, but absolutely commonplace. He and all
+the Princes were in uniform, petite tenue.</p>
+
+<p>We finished our evening at the Bunsens', which was
+pleasant. W. was very glad to have a quiet talk with
+M. de Bunsen, who is most attractive, such a charming
+manner. This evening we have dined as usual at the
+French Embassy with quite a party, including Bleichroeder,
+an Israelite banker, bras droit of Bismarck, and
+therefore interesting. We came early, as all the rest of
+our Mission arrived to-night at 9 o'clock, and we wanted
+to see them. They all came up after supper, looking
+most cheerful, had had a very pleasant journey, rather
+warm in the middle of the day, and were quite game
+to see all they can of Berlin to-morrow, as we go on to
+Warsaw to-morrow night.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Wednesday, May 16th.</p>
+
+<p>We are starting this evening, Dear, so I will scratch a
+few lines to finish this very long epistle, and will send it
+from here. It is still very warm. I went out to see
+some of the pictures (how beautiful the Velasquez are)
+and the marbles of Pergamos, and Pont&eacute;coulant and I
+breakfasted together at the hotel; W. and Richard at the
+George Bunsens', who really have been as friendly and
+hospitable as possible. After breakfast we had various
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_20" title="pg 20"> </a>
+visits, and then Pont&eacute;coulant, Corcelle and I went for a
+last drive in the Thier-Garten. I hoped we should meet
+either the Emperor (I have never seen him) or the Prince
+Imperial, but we didn't. There were plenty of people
+riding and driving, as it was the fashionable day "Corso."
+We saw the Princess Frederick Charles in an open carriage
+with four horses, and a piqueur in front. The Court
+liveries are handsome, but sombre, black and silver.
+Everybody bowed and curtseyed, the officers saluting
+de front.</p>
+
+<p>We went round by the Zoo to show Pont&eacute;coulant the
+big lion. Pont&eacute;coulant was most amusing over their
+journey, and said he was nearly driven out of his mind
+the day before they started with all the people who came
+to see him. He says Philippe, the coiffeur, has never left
+him, that it won't be his fault if my diadem is not perfectly
+pos&eacute;, and that he plied him with beer all along the
+route. He is here supping and living at the hotel with
+all our suite, and sent word to me this morning that
+he was at my disposition to make me a "coiffure de circonstance"
+for the night journey. What do you suppose
+it would have been?</p>
+
+<p>Pont&eacute;coulant had seen Henrietta and Francis the day
+he left, and had left orders at the Foreign Office that the
+Havas telegrams which will keep her au courant of our
+movements shall always be sent to her. All the personnel
+except W. and me dine at the Embassy to-night.
+I am not sorry to have a quiet evening. We leave at
+11 to-night, and get to Alexandrownow about 7.30 to-morrow.
+That is the Russian frontier, and there we
+shall have some sort of official reception.</p>
+
+<p>W. has been riding these last two days with Sancy,
+the military attach&eacute;, and that always does him good.
+I couldn't find any sort of silk blouse, so I trust it won't
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_21" title="pg 21"> </a>
+be very warm travelling to-night. When we cross the
+frontier I shall feel as if our journey had begun. Here
+we have lived so with the Embassy that I hardly feel as
+if I was abroad, only the cadre is different, and the
+Prussian uniforms a disagreeable reminder. I don't
+think it is an easy post to be Ambassador here, and I
+should think M. de Courcel's succession would be a very
+difficult one. He knows German well, and has always
+lived with diplomatists, but if they send a political
+man, I think he will have a hard time; though as Bismarck
+said to W. when they were talking about any
+possible war in Europe&mdash;"Je d&eacute;sire la paix, je suis un
+homme satisfait," which wasn't very pleasant for the
+French Ambassador to hear, as I suppose what has
+largely contributed to his satisfaction is the possession
+of Alsace-Lorraine.</p>
+
+<p>We have had our dinner, and W. smoked on the balcony,
+and we saw all the gentleman-servants, omnibuses
+and baggage start. We shall only go just in time to
+have 5 minutes talk on the platform with M. de Courcel,
+who is coming to say good-by. The g&eacute;rant of the hotel
+has just been up to hope we were satisfied&mdash;would we
+telegraph when we came back, as of course he would
+give us the same rooms, and presented me with a large
+bouquet.</p>
+
+<p>Did I say that the Malagache Embassy was at the
+hotel, on the same floor with us. Every time I go down
+the corridor I see two or three tall, dark men, dressed
+in white flowing garments and white turbans, who make
+me low salaams. They are not going to the "Kronung,"
+as they call it here.</p>
+
+<p>My next letter will be from Warsaw, where we should
+arrive at 4 to-morrow afternoon.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_22" title="pg 22"> </a></p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">H&ocirc;tel de l'Europe, Varsovie</span>,<br >
+Thursday, May 17th, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>Here we are, Dear, having arrived from Berlin at 3.30
+this afternoon. We started at 11&mdash;it was very hot even
+at that hour of the night, and the coup&eacute;-lit stuffy and
+uncomfortable. M. de Courcel and all his staff were at
+the station to see us off, and the two Embassies united
+made quite a gathering. I had a little talk with Princess
+Guillaume Radziwill, who is starting for the Coronation.
+It seems she has splendid jewels, and was rather bothered
+to know how to carry them. She has got them all on,
+in little leather bags around her waist, and she thinks
+she won't be very comfortable all night, with pins,
+brooches, etc., running into her. She was horrified when
+I told her where mine were.</p>
+
+<p>The night was long, we were not very comfortable,
+and the gentlemen were decidedly squeezed in one little
+carriage. We stopped somewhere, I don't remember
+the name, about 6. The men all got out and had coffee.
+I didn't move, but they sent me in a cup. We got to
+Alexandrownow, the Russian frontier, about 8. The
+station had a decidedly festive appearance&mdash;flags, greens,
+soldiers, music, etc. They were evidently preparing a
+salute and a national anthem of some kind. We all
+thought it was for us, and were proceeding to emerge to
+the strains of the "Marseillaise," when we heard the
+"Wacht-am-Rhein." It seems there was a Hessian
+Prince, nephew of the Emperor, on board, who was also
+going to the Coronation, so we rentr&eacute;ed our heads, and
+remained quietly in our carriages until they had disposed
+of him.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_23" title="pg 23"> </a></p>
+
+<p>Then came our turn. We were received with all
+ceremony&mdash;a tall Russian officer took charge of me, saying,
+in very good French, he was sure I would like to
+brush off the dust, and have some tea, etc. He took me
+upstairs to a very nice room, where a little maid was
+waiting with hot water, towels, brushes, tea, and little
+rolls. I took off my dress to have it brushed, and while
+I was standing in my petticoats several gentlemen came
+to the door (which wouldn't shut), and made various perfectly
+unintelligible remarks to me. The little maid
+laughed and made signs, and carried off my dress, which
+I thought was dangerous&mdash;however I couldn't say anything,
+so I put myself behind the door, and Adelaide
+arranged my hair; and I was just thinking of having a
+cup of tea when the maid reappeared with my dress,
+accompanied by another officer, who told me in French,
+from the other side of the door, that his Royal Highness
+of Hesse hoped I would do him the honour of
+breakfasting with him. I said I would come with <ins title="Transcriber note: spelled 'pleassure' in image">pleasure</ins>,
+but begged they wouldn't wait, as I was not quite
+ready. As soon as I was dressed I sallied out, found
+my officer waiting, who conducted me to a private room,
+where were the Prince and his party, including W. and a
+Russian general, who had been sent from Varsovie to
+meet the Hessian Prince.</p>
+
+<p>They were all at table&mdash;the Prince put me next to him,
+introduced the Russian general and all his suite, and we
+had rather a pleasant hour. We had excellent tea in
+glasses (the first time I ever saw it), delicious little rolls,
+eggs, and cold meat. The Prince is a tall, broad-shouldered,
+good-natured German, speaking French quite well.</p>
+
+<p>We had the same ceremony at starting, first the
+"Wacht-am-Rhein" for the Germans, then the "Marseillaise"
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_24" title="pg 24"> </a>
+for us. The journey was not particularly interesting
+from the frontier here, but Varsovie itself most
+curious. We found the same bustle and preparation at
+the station here&mdash;the Governor of Varsovie, and Pr&eacute;fet
+de Police en tenue, and our Consul, M. B&eacute;rard.</p>
+
+<p>We drove at once to the hotel, looked at our rooms,
+which are comfortable, and started again for a little drive
+through the town before dinner. Anything so unlike
+the cities one has been accustomed to see can't be imagined,
+long, straggling streets, enormous spaces, many
+houses tumbling down, and abominable pavement, deep
+holes, and paving stones as big as ordinary rocks&mdash;why
+the carriage ever got along was a mystery to us all.
+The Russian coachman, a perfect type with his long
+caftan and flat cap. Why the horses remain attached
+to the carriage is a problem, as they apparently have no
+harness of any description. I used to think we didn't
+use much in America. Will you ever forget Coligny's
+face at Oyster Bay when we started trotting down hill
+without any breeching?</p>
+
+<p>There were quantities of dirty Polish Jews in every
+direction, all with their long caftans, greasy, black curls,
+and ear-rings. I had time to rest a little before dinner.
+We all dined together, also B&eacute;rard the Consul, all the
+men in their dress clothes, and I in my grey moir&eacute; with
+white lace, and a big, black velvet bow, one string of
+pearls which I had on under my corsage. Pont&eacute;coulant,
+who is the next man to W., took me in, and I had General
+Pitti&eacute; on the other side. The dinner was handsome and
+well served. Pont&eacute;coulant had attended to that while
+we were driving about.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner the men all went off to the theatre in the
+Governor's box to see a famous ballet. I was rather
+tired, and as we start again to-morrow, and have two
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_25" title="pg 25"> </a>
+nights in the train, I sha'n't mind going to bed early. I
+was interrupted, as we have had a visit, pleasant enough,
+from Mavrocordato (Greek), who is also on his way to
+Moscow to represent his country, and now I am going to
+bed. We leave to-morrow at 4, and I will try and write
+a little en route. They say I can probably, as the
+Russian roads (railroads) are smooth, and they go very
+slowly.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Friday, 2 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>I will go on a little and send this letter also from here.
+We had an expedition this morning to one of the
+ch&acirc;teaux belonging to some member of the Sobieski
+family, or rather belonging to a Potocki quelconque,
+where there are many souvenirs of Sobieski. I never was
+on such a villainous pavement (they tell me Moscow is
+worse), and the road long and straight through flat
+country, not very interesting. The ch&acirc;teau was full of
+pictures and bibelots of all kinds, and every possible souvenir
+of Sobieski, flags, swords, snuff-boxes, etc., and
+quite worth seeing. I enjoyed the outing, as everything
+was absolutely unique, carriages, costumes, carts, people,
+language, houses, a poor tumble-down little hovel next
+to a great palace with gates and courts and gardens.</p>
+
+<p>We lunched again with all the Embassy, and then I
+went to see what was happening to the maids. I had
+left them in such a dejected condition on the landing
+when I went out. They couldn't get hold of any servant
+(couldn't make them understand when they did),
+couldn't get my boots or travelling skirt, or hot water,
+or anything, in fact. The hotel is full of people, all
+starting this afternoon, and there is a fine confusion, but
+they really must learn to get along without all modern
+conveniences.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_26" title="pg 26"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Entre Varsovie et Moscou</span>,<br >
+en wagon, Samedi soir, 19.</p>
+
+<p>I will try and write a little, Dear, while we are stopping
+at Smolensk for tea. It is rather difficult when we
+are moving (though we go slowly) as you will see by the
+writing, as the train shakes a great deal. As soon as it
+stops we all tumble out, are received by railway officials
+in uniform, and conveyed to a private room decorated
+with greens and flags, where most elaborate repasts are
+provided. We got off from Varsovie yesterday most
+comfortably about 4 o'clock. Various officials, our Consul
+B&eacute;rard, were at the station to see us off, and an
+engineer of the company, who goes with us to Moscow
+to interpret and look after us generally. The train is
+most luxurious&mdash;for W. and me one long saloon carriage
+lined with grey satin, and with every variety of
+easy chair, sofa, table, writing-table, lamp, etc. Flowers
+on one of the tables and maps of the route on another.
+Communicating with it and directly behind are
+two bedrooms for us&mdash;mine is capitonn&eacute; in blue satin,
+a very good-sized bed, glass, chairs, table, etc., also a
+dressing-room with every modern convenience. W.'s is
+grey satin, equally comfortable, with dressing-room, bath,
+etc.&mdash;behind these again a coup&eacute; for the maids&mdash;then a
+long carriage for the rest of the Mission with chairs,
+tables, etc, and small coup&eacute;s. The engineer showed us
+all the arrangements, hoped we were satisfied, and also
+told us that two employ&eacute;s would be stationed at each
+end of our carriage always for whatever we might want.</p>
+
+<p>We got off fairly punctually. I wonder if I shall ever
+see Varsovie again. We stopped somewhere about
+5.30, and found a charming little tea waiting for us in a
+private room, served of course in glasses with pieces of
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_27" title="pg 27"> </a>
+lemon, and excellent rolls and cakes. There we fraternized
+with the Dutch Mission, who are also on the
+train. M. Schimmelpenninck, a tall, stylish-looking man,
+with his son and gendre. The young men had recognized
+W., having seen him at the Congr&egrave;s de Berlin; so
+they recalled themselves, and we made friends. We
+agreed to take all our meals together, and as apparently
+we shall have about 6 in the day we shall probably see a
+good deal of each other.</p>
+
+<p>We had rather a pleasant evening, dined (very well)
+at Brest, always the same ceremonial; and after dinner
+some of the gentlemen came and paid us visits. We
+talked of course about "La Grande Arm&eacute;e" and Napoleon's
+campaigns, as we are passing over the same ground
+that they followed. The two moujiks at the doors are
+most attentive and intelligent; as soon as they hear any
+noise in our carriage, opening or shutting a window, or
+anything falling (some of the heavy books slipped off a
+table just now), they seem to divine it, and appear instantly
+and ask, I suppose, what we want. We have no
+means of communication, but they evidently understand.</p>
+
+<p>I was very comfortable last night in my little blue
+room, and had been sleeping quietly, when I seemed to
+divine that someone had come in. I didn't stir, and
+half opened my eyes, and for a moment was rather
+startled. The lamp, shaded, was burning, and in came
+one of the moujiks quite quietly. He moved very
+softly about the room, rather an appalling figure, with
+his high boots, fur cap, and curious half-savage face
+(gentle too), touched door and windows, fussed over the
+lamp, drew the curtain of the dressing-room a little
+closer to keep out any draught (didn't come up to the
+bed), and went out again just as quietly. It was a
+curious experience, flying through the darkness of the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_28" title="pg 28"> </a>
+night, and wakening to see that strange figure prowling
+about.</p>
+
+<p>About 7, I think, in the morning he reappeared, this
+time standing at the door, and making many perfectly
+unintelligible remarks. It was so evident I didn't understand
+that he smiled, made a despairing gesture with his
+hand, and disappeared. As I was quite sure he would
+come back I got up and fastened the door. In a few
+moments I heard a colloquy outside, and then the voice
+of the engineer asking when I would like my maid and
+my tea&mdash;also saying they would stop in about an hour
+for early breakfast, and that mine and the Ambassador's
+would be brought to our carriage.</p>
+
+<p>I asked to have the maid at once&mdash;so Adela&iuml;de appeared
+with hot water and a cup of tea, and I dressed
+as comfortably as if I was in my dressing-room at the
+Rue Dumont d'Urville. As soon as I was ready I went
+into the big carriage, which looked very nice and clean,
+had been swept and dusted, window-panes washed (Adela&iuml;de
+saw the men doing it); a very nice little breakfast
+tray was brought, tea, every variety of good little
+rolls, and some fish. We contented ourselves with the
+rolls, didn't experiment upon the fish. The table was
+close to the window&mdash;all the gentlemen came up and
+talked to us, and as usual there were quantities of people
+about.</p>
+
+<p>We have passed through most desolate country, miles
+of plains, with scarcely any traces of human habitation.
+The cottages are very few and far between&mdash;generally a
+collection of
+<ins title="Trancriber note: spelled 'litttle' in image">little</ins> wood hovels, or "isbas," as they are
+called. We go long distances without seeing houses,
+fences, gates, or even a road. At all the stations there
+are people&mdash;the big ones crowded&mdash;and at the smaller
+ones, where we hardly stop, merely slacken, peasants&mdash;and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_29" title="pg 29"> </a>
+such objects, one can hardly tell the men from the
+women; long, unkempt hair, all barefooted, and all wearing
+a sort of fur garment with a hole in the middle to pass
+the head through, and which falls low down to their
+knees.</p>
+
+<p>We have just had tea at Smolensk, which is very
+Russian looking, with gilded domes and pink and green
+painted roofs. The gentlemen are smoking and walking
+up and down the platform, always exciting great attention.
+There are two rather pretty girls, with fair hair
+and red blouses, who are giggling and looking, and evidently
+wish to be remarked.</p>
+
+<p>We have gone on again now and are settled for the
+evening. The carriage looks so comfortable, curtains
+drawn, lamps lighted, flowers on the tables, and quantities
+of books and maps. Sesmaisons and Corcelle have
+just been in with their maps and Napoleon's Memoirs.
+It is most interesting to follow it all. They read out bits
+here and there as we passed through some well-known
+locality. At the Beresina, I think, where the passage of
+the river was so awful&mdash;some of the men quite exhausted,
+and yet not wanting to lie down on the snow, made themselves
+seats out of the dead bodies of their comrades.
+What an awful retreat!</p>
+
+<p>We have crossed the Beresina, where we saw a long
+procession of wood rafts. They are of the most primitive
+description&mdash;long logs lashed together, and in the
+middle a sort of cabin or hovel, where the women and
+children live. They were floating slowly down with the
+tide as we passed, and singing a sort of sad, monotonous
+chaunt, which sounded weird and pathetic, but impressionnant.
+They say all the Russian National songs have
+that undercurrent of sadness.</p>
+
+<p>Our dinner to-night was very gay. Schimmelpenninck
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_30" title="pg 30"> </a>
+is most attractive. We have become great friends&mdash;I
+have even confided to him where my jewels are, as he
+thought I had left a bag in one of the stations, and
+was convinced it held my diamonds. I told him what
+dress I was going to wear at the Coronation, also my
+difficulty in finding out what the French Court dress
+was. The Empress never wore a regular Court train&mdash;her
+presentations in the Tuileries were always in the
+evening, in ordinary ball dress. I didn't think Queen
+Marie Am&eacute;lie's would have been very pretty, so we
+concocted a Court dress from pictures, other people's
+souvenirs, etc.</p>
+
+<p>I was glad to walk up and down a little&mdash;one gets
+cramped sitting so long, even with our outings for food,
+which are frequent. The tea is extremely good always,
+a sort of greenish flavour, but very delicate, and I should
+think very strong. Pont&eacute;coulant showed me Monsieur
+Philippe in the distance, talking and gesticulating, evidently
+considering himself a most important feature of
+the Mission&mdash;also the detective, who looks like an amiable
+well-to-do bourgeois travelling for his pleasure, until
+you meet his eyes, and there is a quick, keen look which
+tells you he is very much on the alert. He has again
+just given W. the pleasing piece of information that all
+the well-known Nihilist leaders will be at Moscow.</p>
+
+<p>Hubert came up and says the horses are quite well&mdash;their
+rest at Berlin did them good. He is very much
+impressed with the absolute solitude of the country&mdash;"pas
+de villages&mdash;pas de barri&egrave;res, pas m&ecirc;me de chemins."
+We have also a telegram from M. Lhermite saying
+the house is quite in order, he and his cooks and attendants
+installed, and he will have breakfast ready for us to-morrow
+morning. We arrive about 8. We must be ready
+early, as they say the approach to Moscow is very fine.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_31" title="pg 31"> </a>
+It stands low in a plain, but one sees the gilt domes and
+coloured steeples from a great distance.</p>
+
+<p>Our engineer tells us the railway officials are out of
+their minds. He says the special envoys&mdash;Princes particularly&mdash;change
+their minds and their routes all the
+time. They all have special trains, and the confusion
+will be something awful. The Hessian Prince is just
+ahead of us. We haven't crossed many trains, and yet
+there must be frequent communication between Varsovie
+and Moscow.</p>
+
+<p>I still feel rather in a dream, but not tired. I must
+stop now as it is nearly eleven&mdash;my next letter will be
+from Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, Moscow. Richard
+came in just now, and we have been talking over our
+future&mdash;Russia is a "terra incognita" to all of us. It has
+been certainly most novel and interesting so far. Just
+now we stopped for a few moments at a little station,
+quite alive with people and lights, as of course trains
+are going all night. The people look so different&mdash;generally
+fair, with flat features, and a repressed look, as
+if they had always been kept down.</p>
+
+<p>This long effusion will go early to-morrow morning,
+as they send off a valise at once from Moscow.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France, Moscow</span>,<br >
+<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br >
+Monday, May 21st, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived quite safely and comfortably yesterday
+morning&mdash;34 people, counting servants, policemen, etc.
+I hadn't time to write, but you will have had the Havas
+telegram announcing our arrival. I am writing in my
+little boudoir, which looks on a large, square, light courtyard,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_32" title="pg 32"> </a>
+and I wish you could see the wild confusion that
+reigns there. Quantities of boxes and "ballots" of every
+description. Mdme. Hubert, with a veil tied over her
+head, struggling to get at some of my trunks, which are
+all marked with an enormous M. K. W. in white letters
+(a private mark, so as not to confound them with the
+general mark of the Mission). Leroy, Hubert, and
+Pont&eacute;coulant trying to get the big carriage cases opened
+(they look like small houses). Sesmaisons and Calmon
+fussing over their saddles, which they apparently had got
+without much difficulty&mdash;quantities of Russian helpers
+working, talking, but <em>not</em> loud, nor yelling to each other.
+How anything will ever come out of all that chaos I don't
+know.</p>
+
+<p>However, I must begin at the beginning. We got
+here about 8.30 yesterday morning. We were all up
+early, as the country grew more interesting as we approached
+Moscow. We had a confused vision of gilt
+domes, high coloured steeples, etc., but nothing stood
+out very distinctly. There was a fine confusion at the station&mdash;quantities
+of officials, all in uniform, detachments
+of soldiers, red carpets, etc. We were <em>not</em> received
+officially, not being Princes. The Mission only exists
+here <em>after</em> they have presented their lettres de cr&eacute;ance.
+We found our consul, Lagren&eacute;, waiting for us, several
+members of the French Colony, and Lhermite. We
+drove off at once to our Ambassade. The main street,
+Tverskaya, looked very gay with quantities of flags and
+draperies in every direction, and even at that time in the
+morning a great many people. Our house looks well&mdash;the
+entrance isn't bad, and the staircase marble, handsome.
+I hardly looked at the reception-rooms, as I was
+anxious to get to mine. Lhermite had done them very
+well, quite as I wanted, and a nice-looking woman,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_33" title="pg 33"> </a>
+Russian of course, the femme de charge left in the house,
+was there to see if everything was right.</p>
+
+<p>I washed off a little dust, got a cup of tea, and then
+went with W. and Pont&eacute;coulant to inspect the house.
+The ballroom, "serre," and 3 drawing-rooms are nice;
+the dining-room small in comparison and low. Not a
+breath of air anywhere, double windows, hermetically
+sealed, with <em>one</em> pane opening in each; so the very first
+thing we did was to send for someone to take down the
+extra window, and open everything wide&mdash;the close
+smell was something awful. The femme de charge was
+astounded, and most unwilling. I think she thought we
+wished to demolish the whole establishment. W. has a
+large room opening out of the drawing-room. Pont&eacute;coulant
+took charge of the distribution of the gentlemen's
+rooms (which wasn't easy, as they were generally
+small, and not particularly comfortable, but I must say
+they were all easy going, and not at all inclined to make
+difficulties). He chose a room down-stairs for himself
+next the Chancellerie, which he has arranged at once
+very well. The ballroom is handsome, a parquet floor,
+and yellow satin furniture; the other drawing-rooms too
+are well furnished in silk and satin. The dining-room is
+small, but the serre will make a very good fumoir where
+the gentlemen can sit and smoke. It has nice cane arm-chairs
+and tables, and will be a resource.</p>
+
+<p>I went back to my own rooms and arranged my
+affairs with the maids. There is a large room, half
+lingerie, half d&eacute;barras, upstairs, with good placards and
+closets where I can put my dresses if I ever get hold of
+them. They must be unpacked at once, particularly the
+velvet dresses. Of course I am always at the window.
+My Dear, how it would amuse you, so absolutely unlike
+anything you have ever seen.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_34" title="pg 34"> </a></p>
+
+<p>The men seem to work well enough&mdash;they all wear
+red <ins title="Transcriber note: spelled 'flannnel' in image">flannel</ins> shirts tucked into their trousers, and high
+boots&mdash;at the present moment they are all gaping at
+the horses, who certainly do look enormous (the
+Russian horses are all small). It seems ours stand the
+cannon, and shouting, and waving flags and draperies
+very well (so the lessons in the &Eacute;cole Militaire, where
+they were taken several times after they arrived in Paris
+to have cannons and guns fired close to their heads, and
+flags waved about, did them good).</p>
+
+<p>A little Russian maid, in a red petticoat, and a blue
+handkerchief tied over her head, has just appeared, and
+I suppose will be a sort of fille de chambre. She smiles
+every time I speak to the maids, and watches every
+movement I make. I moved a fauteuil just now, and in
+an instant she had possession of it, and stood over it
+looking at me hard to see where I wanted it put. I
+daresay we shall get on very well. We breakfasted at
+12.30 all together&mdash;a very good breakfast, flowers on
+the table, and everything most correct. The gentlemen
+were amusing, all giving their experiences. Just as we
+were finishing we heard someone coming, with the clank
+of sabre, and those long, heavy spurs the Russians wear;
+and a good-looking officer, Colonel Benckendorff, who
+was attached to our Embassy, appeared. He will never
+lose sight of us now until the ceremonies are over.</p>
+
+<p>We adjourned to the serre, and he put us au courant
+of everything. He told us the crowd and confusion at
+the Kremlin was indescribable (all the foreign Princes
+are lodged there). He had all sorts of papers, invitations,
+audiences, cartes de circulation, etc. W. is to
+present his lettres de cr&eacute;ance and all the Mission en
+grande tenue at 10.30 to-day. (I am waiting now to
+see them start.) W. has just been in, looking very well,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_35" title="pg 35"> </a>
+as he always does in full uniform. He wears the Danish
+Grand Cordon, he hasn't the L&eacute;gion d'Honneur nor any
+Russian decoration. Two Ma&icirc;tres des C&eacute;r&eacute;monies, covered
+with gold lace and embroideries, have arrived in
+an ordinary Russian Court coup&eacute;&mdash;they have also an
+Imperial gala carriage for the Ambassador, and two ordinary
+Court carriages, and they have just started, quite
+a crowd of people before the house to see them depart.
+First went two Ma&icirc;tres des C&eacute;r&eacute;monies, their coats covered
+with gold embroidery; then W. alone in a gala carriage
+with four horses, two footmen standing behind, two
+mounted, and an &eacute;cuyer. The rest of the Mission followed
+in two ordinary Court carriages, all with the Imperial
+liveries, which are not very handsome, long red
+cloaks, with a sort of cocked hat. Benckendorff followed
+alone in his private carriage.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus044.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Illustration: Colonel Benckendroff" id="illus044" title="Colonel Benckendroff">
+</a>
+<p class="center small">Colonel Benckendorff<br >
+From a photograph by Bergamasco St Petersburg</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our big footmen figured for the first time&mdash;the four
+in their blue and silver livery were at the door when
+the Ma&icirc;tres des C&eacute;r&eacute;monies arrived, and Pierson with his
+chain in the anteroom. They looked very well; Lhermite
+and our coachman saw the whole thing, and were
+not at all impressed with carriages, liveries, or horses.
+They said the carriages were absolutely shabby, the
+liveries neither well made nor well put on, and the horses
+beneath criticism. They do look extraordinarily small
+before those great heavy state carriages, rather like rats,
+as Hubert says&mdash;"Quand on verra les n&ocirc;tres ce sera une
+surprise," for they are enormous.</p>
+
+<p>What do you think I did as soon as they had all gone?
+I had rather an inspiration&mdash;I told the maids to bring
+me my blue court train (they have unpacked some of
+the boxes, the jewels are all right, and locked up in a
+coffre-fort in W.'s room, but can't find one of Delannoy's
+caisses; I suppose it will turn up though, as
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_36" title="pg 36"> </a>
+Pont&eacute;coulant says the compte was quite right when we
+arrived yesterday, all the boxes here). I then locked the
+door of the ballroom, stationed Pierson outside, with
+strict orders not to let anyone in, put on my train over
+my brown cloth dress, put Adela&iuml;de and Mdme. Hubert
+at one end of the room, and whisked backwards and
+forwards, making them low curtseys (they were rather
+embarrassed). I have never worn a train in my life, as
+you know, and I wanted to see how it would go. It
+seems perfectly cut, and follows every movement, and
+doesn't get twisted around my ankles. The maids were
+quite satisfied, and told me it worked beautifully, particularly
+when I backed across the room. Madame
+Jaur&egrave;s, wife of Admiral Jaur&egrave;s, permanent French Ambassador
+to Russia, told me such hideous tales yesterday,
+when she came to see me, of women getting
+nervous and entangled in their trains when they backed
+away from the Emperor, that I thought I had better
+take some precautions. I indulged in those antics for
+about twenty minutes, then unlocked the door, released
+Pierson, and went upstairs to the lingerie to see how
+my unpacking was getting on. The missing trunk had
+just arrived, and my two women, with the little Russian
+maid, whose eyes opened wide when she saw the
+quantity of dresses being produced, and W.'s man were
+putting things to rights.</p>
+
+<p>The gentlemen got back to a late breakfast, much
+pleased with their reception. They were received in a
+small palace outside of Moscow,<sup><a href="#fn4" id="r4">[4]</a></sup> as the Emperor makes
+his formal entr&eacute;e into the town to-morrow only. They
+found the Emperor very amiable, talking quite easily,
+saying something to everyone. He had on the Grand
+Cordon of the L&eacute;gion d'Honneur. They were all presented
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_37" title="pg 37"> </a>
+also to the Empress. W. said she was very
+gracious and charming; remembered quite well having
+seen us in Paris. We were presented to her by the
+Prince of Wales, Exhibition year. He said she recalled
+the Princess of Wales, not so tall, and had splendid eyes.</p>
+
+<p>Benckendorff stayed to breakfast, and we told him
+his place would be always ready for him at breakfast
+and dinner. The hours of standing apparently will be
+something awful. About 3.30 Mdme. Jaur&egrave;s came for
+me, and we went to see Lady Thornton, who is Doyenne
+of the Corps Diplomatique, but didn't find her.
+The Jaur&egrave;s have just arrived themselves with all the
+Corps Diplomatique from Petersburg. They said the
+starting from there was frightfully mismanaged, not
+nearly carriages enough for the people and their luggage.
+The Ambassadors furious, railway officials distracted,
+a second train had to be prepared which made
+a long delay, and a general uproar. The only man who
+was quite quiet and happy was Mr. Mackay (Silver King
+from California). He formed part of the United States
+Mission, had his own private car attached to the train,
+in which were Mrs. Mackay and Mr. and Mrs. Hunt
+(U. S. Minister and his wife), and was absolutely independent.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving our cards we drove through the
+Tverskaya, the main street. There were quantities of
+people, and vehicles of every description, from the Ambassadors'
+carriages (all with small, black Russian horses,
+a Russian coachman in caftan and flat cap, and a gorgeous
+chasseur, all gold braid, and hat with feathers,
+beside him), to the most ordinary little drosky or fiacre.
+Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, passed us going very
+quickly with the regular Russian attelage&mdash;3 horses, one
+scarcely harnessed, galloping almost free on one side.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_38" title="pg 38"> </a></p>
+
+<p>All the houses are dressed with red and gold draperies,
+and immense tribunes put up all along the
+street, as the procession passes through it from one end
+to the other when the Emperor makes his formal entrance
+to-morrow. There are crowds of peasants and
+country people, all the men in flannel shirts tucked into
+their trousers, and the women with a handkerchief or
+little shawl over their heads. They don't look the least
+gay, or excited, or enthusiastic; on the contrary, it is
+generally a sad face, principally fair, and blue eyes.
+They stand, apparently a compact mass, in the middle
+of the street, close up to the carriages, which can
+scarcely get on&mdash;then comes a little detachment of
+Cossacks (most curious looking, quite wild, on very
+small horses, and enormous long lances), rides into the
+crowd and over them. They make no resistance, don't
+say anything, and close up again, as soon as the carriage
+passes&mdash;and so it goes on all day.</p>
+
+<p>I was quite excited when we drove into the Kremlin&mdash;it
+is enormous, really a city, surrounded by a great
+crenellated wall, with high towers at intervals, quantities
+of squares, courts, churches, palaces, barracks, terraces,
+etc. The view of the town from one of the terraces
+overlooking the river is splendid, but the great interest
+is the Kremlin itself. Numbers of gilt domes, pink and
+green roofs, and steeples. It seemed to me that pink
+predominated, or was it merely the rose flush of the
+sunset which gave a beautiful colour to everything. We
+saw of course the great bell, and the tower of Ivan the
+Terrible (from where they told us he surveyed massacres
+of hundreds of his soldiers), everywhere a hurrying, busy
+crowd (though always quiet).</p>
+
+<p>Thanks to our "Carte de Circulation" we pass everywhere,
+though stopped at every moment. We crossed,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_39" title="pg 39"> </a>
+among other things, a procession of servants, and minor
+court officials, with quantities of silver dishes, flagons,
+etc., some great swell's dinner being sent from the Imperial
+Palace. We went from one great square to another,
+stopping at the Palace where all the f&ecirc;tes are to
+be. There we found one or two Court officials whom
+Mdme. Jaur&egrave;s knew, and they showed us as much as
+they could, but everybody is "sur les dents," and nothing
+ready; and in spite of all the precautions one feels that
+there is a strong undercurrent of nervousness. We
+went to the Church de l'Assomption, where the Coronation
+is to take place. There too we found officials,
+who showed us our places, and exactly where the Court
+would be. The church is small, with a great deal of
+gilding and painting. All the tribunes are ready, and
+what we shall feel like when the ceremony is over I
+am sure I don't know. It will last about three hours
+and a half, and we stand all the time. There is not a
+vestige of a seat in the Tribune Diplomatique&mdash;merely
+a sort of rail or "barre d'appui" where one can lean back
+a little.</p>
+
+<p>We lingered a little on the terrace overlooking the
+river where there is a fine view of the town, and came
+out by the Porte St. Sauveur, where everyone, Emperor
+and peasant, uncovers. I was glad to get home
+and rest a little before dinner, but I have had a delightful
+afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>I will finish this evening, as the bag goes to-morrow.
+We had a pleasant dinner, our personnel only, and
+Colonel Benckendorff, who told us all we had to do
+these days. The day of the Coronation we meet at the
+German Embassy (General Schweinitz, who married
+Anna Jay, is Doyen of the Corps Diplomatique), and
+go all together to the Kremlin. The hour of rendezvous
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_40" title="pg 40"> </a>
+is 8 there, and as it is quite far off, and the gala
+carriages go on a walk, we must leave here at 7, and
+get up at Heaven knows what hour. What do you
+think we will look like in full Court dress at that hour
+in the morning? Our dinner was very good&mdash;wines,
+fruit, etc. W. complimented Lhermite.</p>
+
+<p>To-morrow we start at 11 for the Palace of Prince
+Dolgourouky, Governor of Moscow, from where we see
+the Emperor pass on his way to the Kremlin. It is
+not far away, but the streets are so barricaded and shut
+up that we must make a long d&eacute;tour. The most stringent
+measures are taken, all windows closed, no canes
+nor umbrellas allowed, and a triple line of troops all
+along the route. The maids are much excited. They
+have places in one of the Tribunes, and M. Lhermite is
+going to escort them. In some marvellous way they
+have been able to communicate with the Russian maids,
+and have given me various pieces of information. I
+have left the gentlemen all smoking in the serre, except
+W., who retired to his own quarters, as he had some
+despatches to write. He has had a long talk with
+Jaur&egrave;s this afternoon, and has also seen Sir Edward
+Thornton, British Ambassador. The house is quite
+quiet&mdash;the court-yard asleep, as no carriages or horses
+have been out to-night. We have two ordinary Russian
+landaus, with those fast little horses, for our every-day
+outings, as the big coup&eacute; d'Orsay only goes out on
+state occasions.</p>
+
+<p>The detective has made his report, and says the Nihilists
+will do nothing to-morrow&mdash;<em>perhaps</em> the night of
+the gala at the Op&eacute;ra. It is curious to live in such a
+highly charged atmosphere, and yet I am less nervous&mdash;I
+wonder why&mdash;the excitement I suppose of the whole
+thing. Well, Good-night, Dear; I would say it in
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_41" title="pg 41"> </a>
+Russian if I could, but so far all I have learnt is "Tchai,"
+which means tea, and "Karosch," which seems to be
+an exclamation of delighted admiration. The little
+maid says it every time I appear in a new garment.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France &agrave; Moscou</span>,<br >
+<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br >
+Mardi, May 22d, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>How shall I ever begin to describe to you, Dear, the
+wonderful life we are leading. Everything is unlike anything
+I have ever seen. I suppose it is the beginning
+of the real far-off East. This morning I am sitting at
+the window reading and writing, and looking out into
+the court-yard, which is a never-failing interest&mdash;such
+quantities of people always there. The first thing I
+hear in the morning is Pont&eacute;coulant's voice. He is
+there every day at eight o'clock, conferring with Leroy
+and Hubert, examining the horses and carriages, deciding
+which ones are to be used, and giving orders for the
+day.</p>
+
+<p>Then arrive the two Russian landaus which go all
+day, and very different they look from our beautiful
+equipages and big important servants. Then comes
+Lhermite, rattling off, in a low pony cart, with the boy
+from the Consulate along-side of him. He goes to
+market every day, and nearly has a fit because he can't
+talk himself, and he knows they are all lying, and stealing,
+and imposing upon him generally. In one corner
+there is a group of little Russian horses tied to the stable
+doors, with Russian soldiers fussing over them. They
+have been sent from one of the cavalry barracks for the
+gentlemen to ride.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_42" title="pg 42"> </a></p>
+
+<p>In every direction men are cleaning carriages, saddles,
+harness, liveries; and with such little noise&mdash;they are
+extraordinarily quiet.</p>
+
+<p class="author">May 22d, 5.30.</p>
+
+<p>We have just got back from the Governor's palace;
+and to-night the Emperor is safe in the Kremlin.</p>
+
+<p>It was a marvellous day. We started (the whole
+Mission) at 10.30 this morning, W. and I alone in the
+d'Orsay, which looked very handsome. It is dark blue
+with white stripes, like all our carriages, and lined with
+blue satin of rather a lighter shade. The men were
+in demi-gala, blue plush breeches, white silk stockings,
+and high hats (not tricornes), with silver bands and
+cords. Thornton, the English coachman, looked very
+smart, and handled his big black horses perfectly. The
+gentlemen told us he used very strong language when
+he got back to the stables over the abomination of the
+Moscow pavement. We were preceded as usual by
+Richard and Benckendorff in a light carriage. I wore
+one of Philippe's dresses, brown gauze embroidered in
+velvet flowers, all the front &eacute;cru lace, and an ecru straw
+bonnet, with a vieux rose velvet crown.</p>
+
+<p>I was much amused while I was dressing to hear various
+members of the party in the lingerie, "Madame,
+voulez-vous me coudre un bouton," "les plumes de mon
+chapeau ne tiennent pas," etc., even Thornton came in
+to have his lace cravate tied. We were a long time getting
+to Prince Dolgourouky's palace; not that it is far
+away, but the streets are barricaded in every direction,
+however I didn't mind&mdash;the crowd was so interesting,
+packed tight; they had been standing for hours, they
+told us, such pale, patient faces, but so <em>un</em>joyous; no
+jokes, nor bits of songs, nor good-natured scuffling; so
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_43" title="pg 43"> </a>
+unlike our Paris crowd on a great f&ecirc;te day, laughing and
+chaffing, and commenting freely on everything; and
+certainly very much unlike the American-Irish crowd
+at home in New York, on the 4th of July or St. Patrick's
+day. I remember quite well putting boxes of fire-crackers
+in a tin pail to frighten the horses, and throwing
+numerous little petards under people's feet, but no
+one seemed to mind. Fancy the effect of a pailful of
+fire-crackers exploding in any part of Moscow to-day.
+The tribunes covered with red cloth, or red and gold,
+crammed; and armies of soldiers, mounted and on foot,
+in every direction; and yet we were only in the side
+streets. The real crowd was in the Tverskaya where
+the cort&eacute;ge was to pass.</p>
+
+<p>When we finally arrived we were received by the
+Governor's two nieces, Madame Mansouroff and Princess
+Obolenski. The Prince, like all the other Russian
+noblemen, took part in the cort&eacute;ge. All our colleagues
+were there, but the Duc de Montpensier was
+the only special envoy. All the other foreign Princes
+were riding with the Emperor's suite. It was almost a
+female gathering, though of course all the men of the
+Corps Diplomatique were there. We waited some little
+time in the large drawing-room, where many presentations
+were made; and then had a very handsome breakfast,
+people talking easily, but the Russians visibly
+nervous and preoccupied. As soon as it was over we
+went out on the balconies, where we remained until the
+cort&eacute;ge had passed. They brought us tea at intervals,
+but I never stirred from my chair until the end.</p>
+
+<p>It was a beautiful sight as we looked down&mdash;as far
+as one could see, right and left, flags, draperies, principally
+red and gold, green wreaths, flowers and uniforms&mdash;the
+crowd of people well kept back behind a
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_44" title="pg 44"> </a>
+triple row of soldiers, the middle of the street perfectly
+clear, always a distant sound of bells, trumpets, and
+music. A salute of cannon was to let us know when
+the Emperor left Petrofski, the small palace just outside
+the walls where he has been all these days. As the time
+drew near one felt the anxiety of the Russians, and
+when the first coup sounded, all of them in the Palace
+and in the street crossed themselves. As the procession
+drew near the tension was intense. The Governor's Palace
+is about half way between the gate by which the
+Emperor entered and the Kremlin. He had all that
+long street to follow at a foot's pace. As soon as he
+entered the Kremlin another cannon would tell his
+people he was safe inside.</p>
+
+<p>At last the head of the gorgeous procession appeared.
+It was magnificent, but I can't begin to tell you the
+details. I don't even remember all I saw, but you will
+read it all in the papers, as of course all their correspondents
+are here. There were quantities of troops of
+all descriptions, the splendid chevaliers-gardes looked
+very imposing with their white tunics and silver cuirasses;
+both horses and men enormous. What I liked
+best were the red Cossacks (even their long lances red).
+They look perfectly wild and uncivilized and their little
+horses equally so, prancing and plunging all the time.</p>
+
+<p>The most interesting thing to me was the deputations
+from all the provinces of this vast Empire&mdash;Kirghis,
+Moguls, Tartars, Kalmucks, etc. There was a magnificent
+chief from the Caucase, all in white, with jewelled
+sword and high cap (even from where we were, so high
+above the crowd, we saw the flash of the diamonds);
+the Khan of Khiva, and the Emir of Bokhara, both with
+high fur caps, also with jewels on cap and belt. A young
+fellow, cousin I think of Prince Dolgourouky, came
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_45" title="pg 45"> </a>
+and stood near me, and told me as well as he could who
+the most important people were. Bells going all the
+time (and the Moscow bells have a deep, beautiful
+sound), music, the steady tramp of soldiers, and the
+curious, dull noise of a great crowd of people.</p>
+
+<p>Then a break in the troops, and a long procession of
+gala court carriages passed, with six horses and six runners,
+a man to each horse, with all the grands-maitres
+and high officials of the Court, each man covered with
+gold lace and embroidery, and holding his staff of office,
+white with a jewel at the top. After that more troops,
+the Emperor's body-guard, and then the Emperor himself.
+He was in full uniform, riding quite alone in front
+on his little white horse which he had ridden in the Turkish
+campaign. He looked quite composed and smiling,
+not a trace of nervousness (perhaps a little pale), returned
+all the salutations most graciously, and looked
+up, bowed and smiled to our balcony. A little distance
+behind him rode his two sons, and close up to him on
+the left rode the Duke of Edinburgh in red; any bomb
+thrown at the Emperor must have killed the English
+Prince.</p>
+
+<p>Then followed a long suite of Princes&mdash;some of their
+uniforms, Austrian, Greek, and Montenegrian standing
+out well. From that moment there was almost silence
+on the balcony; as the Emperor disappeared again all
+crossed themselves, and everyone waited for the welcome
+sound from the Kremlin.</p>
+
+<p>After a long interval, always troops passing, came the
+Empress. She was with her daughter, the little Grand
+Duchess Xenia, both in Russian dress. The carriage
+was shut, a coup&eacute;, but half glass, so we saw them perfectly,
+and the high head-dress (Kakoshnik) and white
+veil, spangled with silver was very becoming. The carriage
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_46" title="pg 46"> </a>
+was very handsome, all gold and paintings; six
+white horses led, and running footmen. The Empress
+and her daughter were seated side by side, and on a
+curious sort of <em>outside</em> seat, on one side of the coup&eacute;,
+was a page, dressed in red and yellow, a sort of cloth of
+gold, with high feathers in his cap. The Empress looked
+grave and very pale, but she smiled and bowed all the
+time. It must have been an awful day for her, for she
+was so far behind the Emperor, and such masses of
+troops in between, that he might have been assassinated
+easily, she knowing nothing of it.</p>
+
+<p>There was again a great sound of bells and music when
+the Empress passed, all the people crossing themselves,
+but the great interest of course was far ahead with the
+Emperor. A great procession of Court carriages followed
+with all the Princesses, Grandes-Ma&icirc;tresses, etc.,
+and endless troops still, but no one paid much attention;
+every ear was strained to hear the first sound from the
+Kremlin. When the cannon boomed out the effect was
+indescribable. All the Russians embraced each other,
+some with tears running down their cheeks, everybody
+shook hands with everybody, and for a moment the emotion
+was contagious&mdash;I felt rather a choke in my throat.
+The extraordinary reaction showed what the tension had
+been.</p>
+
+<p>After rather a whirl of felicitations we went into the
+drawing-room for a few minutes, had tea (of course), and
+I talked to some of the people whom I had not seen before.
+Montpensier came up, and was very civil and nice.
+He is here as a Spanish Prince. He told me he had been
+frightfully nervous for the Emperor. They all knew
+that so many Nihilists were about&mdash;he added, "Il &eacute;tait
+superbe, leur Empereur, si cr&acirc;ne!"</p>
+
+<p>We had to wait a few moments for the carriage and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_47" title="pg 47"> </a>
+got home about 5, having been standing a long time.
+We were almost as long getting back to the Embassy as
+we were coming. There was a dense crowd everywhere,
+and the same little detachments of Cossacks galloping
+hard into the midst of the people, and apparently doing
+no harm to anyone.</p>
+
+<p>I will finish now before going to bed&mdash;happily all our
+dissipations finish early. We dined quietly with only
+our own Embassy and Benckendorff, and then drove
+about for an hour or so looking at the illuminations,
+which were not very wonderful. We met all our colleagues
+doing the same thing. W. has just had his report
+from the detective. He said all the Nihilists were
+scattered along the route to-day, but evidently had no
+intention of doing anything. It seems curious they
+should be allowed to remain, as of course the Russian
+police know them quite as well as our man does.</p>
+
+<p>I have just had a notice that the Empress will receive
+me to-morrow. I will try and write a few lines always
+late before going to bed, and while the whole thing is
+still fresh in my memory. If this letter is slightly incoherent
+it is because I have had so many interruptions.
+The maids can hardly undress me, they are so anxious to
+tell me all they have seen. It certainly was a magnificent
+sight to-day, and the fears for the Emperor gave
+such a dramatic note to the whole thing. My eyes are
+rather tired, looking so hard, I suppose.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Wednesday, May 23d.</p>
+
+<p>Well, Dear, I have had my audience. It was most interesting.
+I started at 11 o'clock in the gala carriage,
+Hubert driving me, as he wanted to go once to the
+Kremlin with the carriage before the day of the Coronation.
+It seems there is a slight rise in the road just as
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_48" title="pg 48"> </a>
+one gets to the gate, which is also narrow. I wore the
+blue brocade with bunches of cherries, the front of
+mouss&eacute; velvet, and a light blue cr&ecirc;pe bonnet, neither
+gloves nor veil. Benckendorff and Richard, as "officer
+de service," went ahead in a small carriage. Benckendorff
+said I must have one of my own Embassy, and
+Richard thought it would amuse him to come. W.
+rather demurred&mdash;was afraid we wouldn't be serious
+enough, but we promised him to be absolutely dignes.
+Do you remember at the first official reception at the
+Instruction Publique he never would let you and Pauline
+stand behind me&mdash;he was afraid we would make unseemly
+jokes, or laugh at some of the dresses.</p>
+
+<p>Our progress to the Kremlin was slow. The carriage
+is heavy, goes always at a foot's pace, and has a swinging
+motion which is very disagreeable. I felt rather shy,
+sitting up there alone, as of course there is a great deal
+of glass, so that I was much "en &eacute;vidence." Everybody
+looked, and the people in the street crowded close
+up to the carriage. We found grand preparations when
+we got to the Palace&mdash;the great staircase covered with
+a red cloth, and every variety of chamberlain, page,
+usher, and officer on the stairs and at the door. Benckendorff
+and Richard helped me out of my carriage,
+and Richard's impulse was to give me his arm to go
+upstairs, but he was waved back imperatively, and a
+magnificent gentleman in a velvet coat, all lace and embroidery,
+advanced, and conducted me up the grand
+staircase, always a little behind me. I passed through a
+hedge of uniforms and costumes. When we came to
+the landing where there was a piquet of soldiers my
+attendant said&mdash;"La France," and they presented
+arms.</p>
+
+<p>At the top of the staircase, at the door of the first of
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_49" title="pg 49"> </a>
+a long enfilade of salons, I was handed over, with a very
+low bow, from my first gentleman to another of the same
+description, equally all gold lace, and embroidery; and
+so I passed through all the rooms, always meeting a
+new chamberlain in each one. The rooms are large and
+high, with vaulted roofs like a cathedral, little or no
+furniture (I believe the Russian Court never sits down
+except at meals). We made a halt in one of the salons,
+where we found several maids of honour of the Empress,
+who were presented to me. They were all dressed much
+alike in long, light dresses, and wore their badge&mdash;the
+Empress's chiffre in diamonds on a blue ribbon. While
+I was talking to them a procession of diplomats and
+special envoys passed through the room. They had just
+been received by the Empress.</p>
+
+<p>Presently appeared Prince Galitzin&mdash;Grand Ma&icirc;tre
+des C&eacute;r&eacute;monies, attired in red velvet and lace, and embroidery,
+who said, "Sa Majest&eacute; sera bient&ocirc;t pr&ecirc;te." I
+continued my progress with the same ceremonial, passed
+through the salle du tr&ocirc;ne, which is handsome, white
+and gold; and came to a standstill in the next salon, evidently
+the ante-chamber of the room where I was to be
+received, as the two colossal negroes who always accompany
+the Emperor and Empress were standing at the
+door. They were dressed in a sort of Asiatic costume,
+cashmeres, turbans, scimitars, etc. I was received by the
+Princess Kotchoubey and Count Pahlen, Arch Grand
+Ma&icirc;tre des C&eacute;r&eacute;monies. The Princess K. is the mother
+of Princess Lise Troubetzkoi (whom you will remember
+in Paris as having a salon the first days of the Republic
+where political men of all opinions assembled&mdash;Thiers
+was her great friend). She was a little old lady, dressed
+entirely in white, with a jewel low on her forehead.
+Count Pahlen was dressed in blue velvet and embroidery,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_50" title="pg 50"> </a>
+and carried his staff of office, white, with a large sapphire
+on the top.</p>
+
+<p>We talked a few minutes, when apparently there came
+a signal from the Empress. The doors flew open, and
+the Princess advanced to the threshold, making a
+beautiful curtsey (I am sure mine was not half so good),
+she seemed to go straight down to the ground, said&mdash;"J'ai
+l'honneur d'annoncer l'Ambassadrice de France."
+She then withdrew to one side&mdash;I made a curtsey at
+the door, which was instantly shut, another, a little farther
+on (the regulation is 3), but hadn't time for my
+third, as the Empress, who was standing in the middle
+of the room, advanced a few steps, shook hands and
+begged me to sit down. I hadn't seen her for some
+years, since she came to Paris with her husband, then
+Grand Duke H&eacute;ritier (his father was still alive), and I
+didn't find her changed. She recalls the Princess of
+Wales, but is not so tall; has beautiful dark eyes, and a
+very gracious manner. She was dressed almost as I
+was, but in a different color, yellow brocade with
+bunches of plums, splendid lace in front, and a beautiful
+pearl necklace, three rows of large stones (my one row
+of fairly large ones was nowhere). I think I stayed
+about 20 minutes.</p>
+
+<p>We talked easily enough. She said the long day yesterday
+had been very fatiguing, the going at a foot's
+pace all that long distance with the peculiar swinging
+motion of the heavy gala carriage had tired her very
+much; also the constant bowing right and left, and the
+quantities of flags and draperies waving under her eyes.
+She didn't say anything about being nervous, so of
+course I didn't. She gave me the impression of having
+extraordinary self-control. I asked her what the little
+Grand Duchess thought of it all. She said that she
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_51" title="pg 51"> </a>
+really didn't know&mdash;that she didn't speak, but looked at
+everything and bowed to all the people exactly as she
+did.</p>
+
+<p>She said the day of the sacre would be very long and
+tiring, particularly beginning so early in the morning;
+that she was very matinale, quite accustomed to getting
+up early&mdash;was I? "Fairly&mdash;but I hadn't often been up
+and dressed in full dress and diamonds at seven in the
+morning." "You would prefer a ceremony by candle-light."
+"I think we should all look better at 9 o'clock
+in the evening." She laughed, and then we talked a
+little; Paris, chiffons, etc. She said some of her dresses
+had come from Philippe. We talked a little about Moscow
+and the Kremlin. She asked me what I had seen.
+When I spoke of the church and the tribunes for the
+Corps Diplomatique with <em>no</em> seats, and a very long
+ceremony, she was quite indifferent; evidently didn't
+think it was of the slightest consequence whether we
+were tired or not; and I don't suppose it is.</p>
+
+<p>When she cong&eacute;died me the door flew open (she evidently
+had a bell under her chair which she touched with
+her feet); she shook hands, and walked immediately to
+a door at the other end of the room; so I didn't have to
+back out all the way. Princess Kotchoubey and Count
+Pahlen were waiting for me. The Princess said, "Sa
+Majest&eacute; vous a gard&eacute; bien longtemps, Madame l'Ambassadrice.
+J'esp&egrave;re que vous avez &eacute;t&eacute; contente." Pahlen
+also made me a polite phrase. They both accompanied
+me across the room, and then the door opened,
+and another chamberlain took possession of me. Just
+as we got to the door the Princess was saying something
+about her daughter "devenue absolument une Parisienne,"
+when it opened; she stopped short in the middle
+of her phrase, and made me a little curtsey&mdash;her function
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_52" title="pg 52"> </a>
+was over once I passed into the other room. It
+was too funny.</p>
+
+<p>I was conducted through all the rooms and down the
+great staircase with the same ceremony. I found Richard
+waiting in one of the big rooms, with the "Dames
+du portrait," but this time he didn't venture to offer
+his arm to the Ambassadress, and followed with Benckendorff
+at a respectful distance.</p>
+
+<p>I found my carriage surrounded by an admiring crowd.
+The horses are handsome and enormous, particularly
+here where the race is small, also the French gala liveries
+are unlike anything else. Hubert, my own coachman,
+sits up so straight and pompous on his box, and looks
+so correct I hardly know him. The movement of the
+gala carriage is something awful, makes me really ill.</p>
+
+<p class="author">May 23d, 10 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>We have had a quiet evening&mdash;some of the gentlemen
+have gone off to hear the famous Boh&eacute;miennes in
+one of the public gardens. They have been leaving
+cards all day on the special envoys, Princes, etc. W.
+and Pont&eacute;coulant are having a conference, and I have
+got into my tea-gown, and am reading a little, writing
+a little, and being generally lazy. W. and I also did a
+round of visits this afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>As naturally none of our servants know either a word
+of Russian, or the streets of Moscow, we took with us
+the little polygot youth from the Consulate, who knows
+equally well French, Russian, and German. We gave
+him our list, and he went ahead in a drosky.</p>
+
+<p>We found no one but the Princess Obolenski, who
+spoke at once about the Emperor's entr&eacute;e; said no one
+could imagine the relief it was to all of them to know
+that he was actually safe in the Kremlin. They had evidently
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_53" title="pg 53"> </a>
+all dreaded that day, and of course notwithstanding
+all the precautions a bomb <em>could</em> have been thrown.
+The thrower, par exemple, would have been torn to pieces
+by the crowd; but what makes the strength of the Nihilists
+is that they all count their lives as nothing in what
+they consider the great cause.</p>
+
+<p>How hideous the life of the Emperor and the Empress
+must be. They say they find letters on their tables, in
+their carriages, coming from no one knows where, telling
+them of all the horrors in store for them and their
+children.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France, &agrave; Moscou</span>,<br >
+<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br >
+Thursday, 24 Mai, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>I am having a quiet morning. We have no particular
+function to-day. Madame Jaur&egrave;s is coming to get
+me after breakfast, and we are going to do a little sightseeing.
+The first thing I hear in the morning always is
+Pont&eacute;coulant's voice in the court talking to Leroy and
+Hubert, and examining the horses. The pair we had
+in the gala carriage yesterday went beautifully. Hubert
+was rather nervous, as there is a steep little bit
+just as one passes through the gates of the Kremlin&mdash;it
+is also narrow, and those big, unwieldy carriages are
+not easily handled. The pavement is so rough that I
+was actually a little sick yesterday after I came in.</p>
+
+<p>I was called off by a visit from Prince Orloff (Russian
+Ambassador in France). He comes almost every day,
+and is much interested in all our doings&mdash;said the carriage
+and general style of everything was much admired
+yesterday. About two Madame Jaur&egrave;s came, and we
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_54" title="pg 54"> </a>
+started off sight-seeing. The admiral, Jaur&egrave;s, and one or
+two of the young men met us at the Kremlin, and we
+went over the two palaces&mdash;new and old. The old one
+is most curious; small, dark, low rooms, vaulted ceilings,
+all most elaborately ornamented in Byzantine style; a
+small steep, twisting staircase; large porcelain stoves, and
+absolutely uncomfortable. We saw the dining-room
+where the Emperor and Empress will dine in state the
+day of the Coronation. The new palace is quite different&mdash;high,
+light, large rooms, white, which must look
+beautiful at night lighted by thousands of wax candles.
+In the great ballroom the two Throne chairs are on
+a gold dais with great curtains of purple velvet and ermine&mdash;very
+royal looking.</p>
+
+<p>(I wonder if the sight of all this splendour will destroy
+my mental equilibrium&mdash;I assure you I felt rather like
+a queen myself yesterday, seated up alone in the great
+gala carriage, with everybody bowing and gaping.)
+There is a splendid view over the Kremlin, the river and
+the town from all the palace windows. We went again
+to the church of the Assomption, where we found Count
+Pahlen superintending. He showed us some of the
+famous paintings&mdash;among others a Madonna with a
+<em>black</em> face, a splendid diamond necklace, and large sapphires
+and emeralds disposed about her person. There
+are jewels about everywhere; on pictures, brackets, etc.
+Pahlen told me, when I was noticing them, that the
+Russian Court was famous for coloured stones, particularly
+emeralds and sapphires&mdash;told me to notice the
+Grand Duchess Constantine's emeralds, and the Empress's
+sapphires. I will, if ever I get time to go into details,
+but everything is on such an enormous scale here.</p>
+
+<p>He also asked me if I was accustomed to <em>standing</em>
+three or four hours, and if not he would suggest a <em>pliant</em>
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_55" title="pg 55"> </a>
+"dissimul&eacute; sous les plis de la traine," and showed me
+with pride the rails, covered with red velvet, in our tribune,
+which he had had put there so we should be comfortable!
+It will really be an awful day, particularly as
+we have to begin it so early, but I suppose we shan't die
+of it.</p>
+
+<p>I came back about 4, changed my dress for something
+more &eacute;legant (the blue silk with long blue redingote
+and white lace), and started off again in the d'Orsay for
+some visits (the little boy in the drosky going in front).
+I found the Princess Radziwill in two small rooms (she
+received me in her bedroom), all she could find for herself
+and her husband in Moscow&mdash;and that at an awful
+price (and she is Russian born). I also found Countess
+Pahlen, wife of the Grand Master, who was very smiling,
+and suggested that we should have an evening reception,
+which would be much appreciated. Of course
+we shall be delighted, and had even thought of a ball,
+but all those things had been settled in Russia before we
+left Paris. The Russian Court wished to have <em>one</em> ball
+only, as the Coronation functions were numerous and
+fatiguing, and that is to be at General Schweinitz's
+(Doyen of the Corps Diplomatique).</p>
+
+<p>After leaving Countess Pahlen I went again to the
+Kremlin, the d'Orsay always exciting much attention.
+I had the greatest difficulty in finding out the Duchesse
+d'Edimbourg, for whom I had to write myself down, and
+could find no servant who spoke either German, French,
+or English. The crowd and confusion was something
+awful; apparently the whole of Moscow was going
+wherever I was&mdash;Ambassadors, Generals, Chamberlains,
+maids-of-honour, servants with tea, crowding in all the
+corridors. You never saw such a sight, and just as
+many more in the court-yards&mdash;carriages, soldiers, work-people,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_56" title="pg 56"> </a>
+carpenters, bales of stuffs, and planks for stands,
+and all in that beautiful cadre&mdash;the old gray walls looked
+so soft, and the marvellous effects of colour everywhere.
+I was well shaken up, such a pavement. I met the Duc
+de Montpensier at every turn, sight-seeing too. We
+had a quiet dinner, the personnel only with Benckendorff.
+The gentlemen had been going all around too
+all the afternoon leaving cards. They all say the pavement
+is most trying.</p>
+
+<p>W. and Pont&eacute;coulant have come in late as usual for a
+last little talk. I told them what Countess Pahlen had
+said about an evening reception. W. had had the same
+idea. I think the house is large enough&mdash;the ballroom
+ought to light well, all white with yellow satin furniture.
+We must have a talk with Lhermite about flowers; he
+says there are none here, his come from Paris.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Friday, 25th.</p>
+
+<p>The men of the Embassy went off early, as they had
+no end of audiences with all the Grand Dukes; uncles
+and brothers of the Emperor. I walked about a little
+with Adela&iuml;de, but I didn't find that very pleasant. It
+is curious I never see a lady of any kind walking, and
+we always attract attention. It is very warm, the sun
+really powerful. I breakfasted alone in the big dining-room,
+an elaborate meal, one ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel and two
+tall footmen waiting upon me&mdash;I was rather sorry I
+hadn't asked for tea and cold chicken in my dressing-room.</p>
+
+<p>At 3.30 the gentlemen all reappeared, put on their
+Austrian decorations, and we started for the reception
+of the Arch Duke and Arch Duchess Albert of
+Austria. We found quantities of people, as all the Corps
+Diplomatique had been convoked. W. and I went as
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_57" title="pg 57"> </a>
+usual in the d'Orsay. I wore my cr&egrave;me voile with
+lace and embroidery, straw bonnet with cr&egrave;me feathers,
+lined with dark blue velvet. We waited some little time
+in a large hall or anteroom where was Count Wolkenstein,
+Austrian Ambassador, who presented all the suite
+of the Arch Duke. Then appeared the Arch Duke
+alone&mdash;said his wife was coming in a few moments. We
+had known him in Paris&mdash;he had dined with us at the
+Quai d'Orsay when W. was Foreign Minister, our Exhibition
+year. He is a tall, distinguished looking man. It
+was when he was dining at the Elys&eacute;e one night with
+Mar&eacute;chal MacMahon that such a funny contre-temps
+occurred. Their dinners were always very good and
+soign&eacute;s, but evidently they had not thought about the
+names of the dishes, and when we were well on with the
+dinner we suddenly realized that something was wrong.
+My neighbour said to me "Look at your menu," and
+what did I see&mdash;"Glace &agrave; la Magenta"&mdash;"Gateau Solf&eacute;rino,"
+and I forget the third thing&mdash;all battles where the
+Austrians had been beaten. I spoke to one of the household
+about it afterwards who said "J'ai froid dans le
+dos en pensant &agrave; ce que le Mar&eacute;chal me dira." It seems
+that when he was angry the Mar&eacute;chal didn't mince matters,
+and used most <em>emphatic</em> expressions. You can imagine
+how carefully we studied the menu of our dinner
+which came two days after&mdash;"Glace &agrave; la R&eacute;gence,"
+"G&acirc;teau Moka," etc., nothing compromising.</p>
+
+<p>While the Arch Duke was talking there was suddenly
+a move, and he went to meet the Arch Duchess
+who came in, crossed the room quickly, and asked us
+to follow. We did, into a smaller room, W. and I alone.
+She is very handsome, younger than he is, tall and slight,
+dressed in a black dress with a great deal of lace, a very
+long train, a handsome pearl necklace, and a high comb
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_58" title="pg 58"> </a>
+of diamonds. She said she would like to make a stay in
+Paris. After they had cong&eacute;died us W. asked if he
+might present the rest of the Mission, so I returned to
+the large salon and saw various people to talk to, including
+Count Apponyi, whom I had known in Paris, where
+his father was Ambassador for years.</p>
+
+<p>We dined at home and went in the evening to a reception
+at M. de Giers'&mdash;Foreign Minister. The rooms
+were not large, and there were a great many people,
+I should think more foreigners and diplomatists than
+Russians. Princess Kotchoubey and Countess Pahlen
+did the honours. Quantities of people were presented
+to me&mdash;I shall never remember their names or their
+faces. I wore fraise-&eacute;cras&eacute; velvet, the front covered with
+white "point &agrave; l'aiguille." General Wolseley, who is here
+with the Duke of Edinburgh, was presented. He is not
+at all the real British type, small and dark, but very bright
+eyes. I also had quite a talk with my Dutch friend
+Schimmelpenninck, who assured me my toilettes were tr&egrave;s
+r&eacute;ussies, particularly the white one, this afternoon. I
+had quite a talk too with the Hunts, who are very nice.
+Both are tall and fine-looking, she always very well
+dressed. The U.S. Mission is very distinguished&mdash;they
+have Mr. and Mrs. Mackay with them, both very natural
+and quiet; she of course has splendid jewels (they tell
+me her sapphires are beautiful), but she wears them
+quite simply, without any ostentation. There is also
+Admiral Baldwin, who has his ship at Cronstadt, and two
+charming young aides-de-camp, Rogers and Paul.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_59" title="pg 59"> </a></p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, May 26, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>Well, Dear, I am just alive, but nothing more, having
+performed 5 Grand Duchesses. The gentlemen all went
+off in full uniform at 11 to begin their audiences. I followed
+later alone (they always go en bande) with Richard
+going in the small carriage in front as officier de service
+(which amuses us both perfectly). I wore the white
+soft silk with Valenciennes that you liked, and the flower
+hat. Benckendorff complimented me on my toilette.
+It was a long affair getting to our different Princesses.
+They are all lodged in the Kremlin, and the various palaces
+connect with all sorts of passages and staircases, but
+the corridors are narrow and the block something awful.
+My first audience was with the Grand Duchess Michel.
+Her husband is an uncle of the Emperor, and was for a
+long time Governor of the Caucasus. When we finally
+got to the door of the apartments I was received by 2
+Chamberlains (all gold and embroidery), who never left
+me until they deposited me in the carriage at 5 o'clock&mdash;I
+had started at 1.30. The ceremonial was always exactly
+the same, one or two ladies-in-waiting were in the
+room communicating with the one in which the Grand
+Duchess was waiting. They announced "L'Ambassadrice
+de France," I got through as many of my three regulation
+curtseys as I could&mdash;I never really had time to
+make the third, as they all advanced a few steps and
+shook hands. The Grand Duchess Michel is a Baden
+Princess, tall, slight, very intelligent, simply dressed in
+black velvet, and of course a pearl necklace. She spoke
+to me in English, French, and German, but the conversation
+was mostly in French. She seemed well up in
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_60" title="pg 60"> </a>
+French literature, and asked me what I thought of Zola's
+"L'Assommoir," was really surprised when I said I
+hadn't read it, nor in fact scarcely anything he wrote. She
+considered it a marvel, and couldn't understand any
+French woman not reading every word that came from
+"un des plus puissants cerveaux du si&egrave;cle." She knew
+too all the pieces de th&eacute;&acirc;tre, and when I expressed surprise
+that she had had time to read so much, said her life
+in the Caucasus was so lonely&mdash;no society of any kind,
+and no resources outside of her own palace. I should
+think she was a ma&iuml;tresse femme.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving her I was taken in hand again by my two
+chamberlains, and walked some distance across one or
+two courts, always meeting more chamberlains escorting
+colleagues, principally men, all in uniform and orders,
+doing the same thing, and trying to get on as fast as
+they could. My next visit was to the Grand Duchess
+Constantine. When we got to the anteroom and small
+salon we found them full of gentlemen, who proved to be
+our Mission, who had arrived a few minutes before. That
+made a slight change of programme, as the Grand
+Duke decided to receive W. and me together with the
+Duchess&mdash;accordingly we were received first, alone, in a
+small room. The Grand Duke was standing close to the
+door; the Grand Duchess in the centre of the room. He
+is a sailor, looks very intelligent. She has been very
+handsome, carries herself beautifully, and has a splendid
+figure. He was in uniform&mdash;she in red velvet (she <em>didn't</em>
+have on her emeralds&mdash;I suppose we shall see them all
+to-morrow). They both talked very easily about all
+sorts of things; Greece of course and the Schuylers, of
+whom she spoke very warmly. Her daughter is the
+Queen of Greece&mdash;I hope we shall see her, as I have
+heard Gert talk so much about her. The Grand Duchess
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_61" title="pg 61"> </a>
+said she was tired already, and the Ceremonies haven't
+begun yet. She had received yesterday 100 ladies of
+Moscow. They came in groups of 10, and she had to
+find something to say to each one.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the audience was over W. asked permission,
+as usual, to present the rest of the Mission. I remained
+in the outer salon talking to the ladies-in-waiting. The
+apartment is high, with a splendid view over Moscow.
+They pointed me out several churches and curious roofs&mdash;were
+much interested in all my visits and my clothes,
+supposed I had quantities of trunks.</p>
+
+<p>After that I departed again alone, and saw the Grand
+Duchess Catherine, who was very amiable, but kept me a
+few minutes only, as she had so many people to receive.
+Then I took another long walk, and up several flights of
+narrow, turning stairs (the chamberlains in front and
+Richard behind) to the Duchesse d'Oldenburg. The
+Belgian Mission was being received, so I waited in the
+outer salon, and again W. and the gentlemen arrived,
+and he and I were received together. Evidently they
+like it better when we can go together, as it saves time
+for them&mdash;and if we are tired, think what they must be.
+I went off again alone, and was received by the Grand
+Duchess Wladimir, who is charming&mdash;a German Princess.
+She is young, a pretty figure, very well dressed in
+white. She looked rather delicate, having just got over
+a rather bad attack of measles. She dreads the fatigue
+very much to-morrow, and had asked the Empress if she
+might have a folding-chair, a pliant of some kind, but her
+"demande n'a pas &eacute;t&eacute; accueillie favorablement. L'Imperatrice
+elle-m&ecirc;me sera debout tout le temps. Il faudrait
+absolument que nous fassions comme elle." I didn't
+mention my pliant, as I am quite sure no one will notice
+to-morrow anything <em>I</em> do.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_62" title="pg 62"> </a></p>
+
+<p>That finished my audience, and I had been standing or
+walking since I left the Embassy, so I was glad to find
+the carriage, which was by no means easy. There were
+quantities at the Kremlin, and as we never by any chance
+came out at the same door by which we went in, and the
+coachman was told to follow, he naturally had some difficulty
+in getting it. Also it is raining hard, which complicates
+matters. There are carpets down to the doors,
+but so many people have passed over them that they are
+just as wet and muddy as the streets. We met all the rest
+of the Mission at the Embassy door, and then there was
+a general d&eacute;tente, the men all calling for their servants
+to get them out of their uniforms, and to bring beer and
+cigars.</p>
+
+<p>W. came in to tea. He looked really done up&mdash;he
+had been at it steadily since 12. There are so many
+Princes and Grand Dukes without any wives. I am
+writing in bits, but will finish as usual the last thing. We
+have had a small dinner&mdash;the other French Embassy
+(permanent), Lagren&eacute;, Consul, and Orloff. Benckendorff
+of course. They all went away early, as our day
+to-morrow is an awful one.</p>
+
+<p>It is pouring still, and we are rather melancholy at
+the thought of our gala carriages, and blue and silver
+liveries in a heavy rain. Just before dinner I had a visit
+from Philippe, and he made various essais with my diadem
+and feathers. He is to be here at six to-morrow
+morning to coiffer me. He also requested that he might
+see my dress so as to make his coiffure "harmoniser avec
+l'ensemble." I wanted to see it too, so as to be sure that
+everything was right, and the flowers well sewn on. It
+is now reposing on one of the big arm-chairs in the dressing-room,
+covered up with a sheet.</p>
+
+<p>My eyes are shutting of themselves, so I will stop.
+
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_63" title="pg 63"> </a>
+Please send all my letters on to America, as I never can
+write <em>two</em> accounts of our life here.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France &agrave; Moscou</span>,<br >
+<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br >
+Dimanche, 27 Mai, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>I am perfectly exhausted, Dear, after the most beautiful,
+bewildering, exhausting day I have ever gone
+through. We got home at 4.30. I rested a little, had tea
+as usual in my boudoir with W. and Richard, and will
+write as much as I can while I am still under the impression
+of all I have seen.</p>
+
+<p>I was up at 5.30, as we had to leave here at 7. Philippe
+was very punctual&mdash;put on diadem and feathers
+very well. Happily it was all blue, rather dark (as my
+dress too was blue), and he remarked pleasantly, to put
+me at my ease I think, and make me feel as comfortable
+as I could at that hour of the morning, "Le bleu c'est
+le fard de Madame." He couldn't understand that I
+wouldn't let him maquiller my face&mdash;said all the Princesses
+were painted&mdash;but I really couldn't go that.</p>
+
+<p>When I appeared in the drawing-room, the men of
+the Embassy were very complimentary about my dress.
+We went in our three carriages (I had the white moir&eacute;
+cloak, trimmed with dark feathers over me), W. and I
+and Pont&eacute;coulant in the first gala carriage driven by
+Leroy (I wish you could have seen him, as much taken
+up with <em>his dress</em> as I was with mine). He stood giving
+directions to a quantity of understrappers, but never
+touching harness, nor even whip, until we appeared, then
+got on his box as we got into the carriage, settled himself
+in a fine pose, and we started.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_64" title="pg 64"> </a></p>
+
+<p>The second gala carriage driven by Hubert (who
+looked very well) came next, and then the d'Orsay. It
+really was a very pretty cort&eacute;ge, and we were much
+looked at and admired, as we drove very slowly, and
+jolting very much, to the German Embassy. All our
+colleagues came up about the same time. Some of the
+gala carriages were good, the Austrian, but ours out and
+out the best. No one else had three.</p>
+
+<p>We assembled in one of the large rooms of the palace,
+and then walked through numerous rooms, galleries, and
+finally through an open court, entirely covered with a
+red carpet, and lined with soldiers and officers&mdash;every
+description of uniform. The Chevalier-Gardes, magnificent
+in their white tunics, silver cuirasses and helmets.
+Happily it was fine&mdash;I don't know what we should have
+done in the rain, and also so early in the morning the
+sun was not g&ecirc;nant (as it was later in the day). The long
+procession, the men in uniform and decorations; the
+women in full dress, feathers and diadems, was most
+effective.</p>
+
+<p>I left my cloak in the carriage, and didn't feel chilly,
+but some of the women were uncomfortable, and had
+little lace and fur tippets. We filed into the church
+(which is small), and into the Diplomatic Tribune, and
+settled ourselves quite easily&mdash;there was plenty of room.
+The effect inside was dazzling: tapers, flowers, pictures,
+jewels, quantities of women already seated, all in the
+Kakoshnik, and a general impression of red and gold in
+their costumes. All the Empress's ladies wear red velvet
+trains, embroidered in gold. People seemed to be
+coming in all the time. Deputations from the provinces,
+officials of Moscow, officers, chamberlains, a moving
+mass of colour. The costume of the Popes was gorgeous&mdash;cloth
+of gold with very high jewelled mitres.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_65" title="pg 65"> </a></p>
+
+<p>We waited some time before the ceremony began, but
+there was so much to see that we didn't mind, and from
+time to time one of the officials came and stood with us
+a little, explaining who all the people were. The whole
+church was hung with red, and red carpets everywhere.
+Just in the middle there was a high estrade, covered with
+red velvet, and a great gold baldaquin with Imperial
+eagles embroidered on it. It was all surrounded by a
+gold balustrade, and on it were the two thrones. A little
+lower on the same estrade were the places of the Princes
+of the family, and the Foreign Princes.</p>
+
+<p>A little before 9 the Imperial family began to arrive.
+Almost all the Grand Duchesses in trains of drap d'argent,
+bordered with sable, and magnificent jewels. Then
+there was a great sound of trumpets, and cheering outside
+(those curious, suppressed Russian cheers), and they
+told us the Emperor and Empress were coming. They
+were preceded by an officer of the Chevalier-Gardes, with
+sabre-&agrave;-nu. The Emperor was in full uniform, with the
+blue ribbon of St. Andr&eacute;. The Empress quite simple in
+white and silver, the Imperial eagles embroidered on the
+front of her dress; no diadem, no veil, nor jewels;
+her train carried by 4 pages, her hair quite simply
+done&mdash;she looked so young, quite like a school-girl.
+Then followed a glittering suite of Princes, officers,
+etc.</p>
+
+<p>The service was very long, the chanting quite fine; the
+men have beautiful, deep voices&mdash;I cared less for the intoning,
+they all end on such a peculiar high note. I
+didn't like the looks of the Popes either&mdash;the long beards
+worried me. Of course the real interest was when the
+Emperor took the crown from the hands of the Pope
+(kneeling before him) and put it on his own head. He
+looked a magnificent figure, towering over everybody,
+
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_66" title="pg 66"> </a>
+as he stood there in his Imperial robes, cloth of gold
+lined with ermine, and a splendid jewelled collar. The
+crown looked high and heavy&mdash;made entirely of jewels.</p>
+
+<p>His two brothers, Grand Dukes Wladimir and Alexis,
+put on his robes. The Grand Duke Wladimir always
+stands close behind his brother. He has a stern, keen
+face. He would be the Regent if anything should happen
+to the Emperor, and I think his would be an iron
+rule.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the Emperor was crowned the Empress
+left her seat, came to the middle of the platform, made
+a deep curtsey to the Emperor, and knelt. Her court
+ladies then gathered around her, and put on the Imperial
+mantle, also in cloth of gold lined with ermine, and the
+same jewelled collar like the Emperor's. When she was
+dressed, the Emperor, stooping low over her, put on her
+crown, a small one made entirely in diamonds, raised her
+and kissed her. As she stood a moment she almost staggered
+back under the weight of the mantle&mdash;the 4 pages
+could hardly hold it.</p>
+
+<p>Then the long procession of Princes and Princesses
+left their seats on the estrade, and passed before the
+Sovereigns. First came his two brothers, Wladimir and
+Alexis. They kissed the Emperor, then bent low before
+the Empress, kissing her hand. She kissed them each
+on the forehead. Next came the two young Princes, in
+uniform like their father, wearing also the blue ribbon
+of St. Andr&eacute;, and the little Grand Duchess (aged 10)
+in a short white dress, but the Kakoshnik.</p>
+
+<p>It was a pretty sight to see the children bowing and
+curtseying low to their parents. Some of the ladies'
+curtseys were wonderful&mdash;the Arch Duchess Charles
+Louis extraordinarily graceful (I wonder how I ever shall
+get through mine&mdash;I am certainly much less souple than
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_67" title="pg 67"> </a>
+these ladies). When they had all passed the Emperor
+went alone into the chapel to communier, and receive the
+sacred oil&mdash;the Empress remained kneeling outside.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%">
+<a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus078.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Illustration: The Emperor Crowning the Empress Church de l'Assomption" id="illus078" title="The Emperor Crowning the Empress Church de l'Assomption">
+</a>
+
+<p class="center">The Emperor Crowning the Empress Church de l'Assomption</p></div>
+
+<p>We had various incidents in our tribune&mdash;one or two
+ladies fainted, but couldn't get out, they had to be
+propped up against the rail, and brought round with fans,
+salts, etc. We stood for three hours and a half.</p>
+
+<p>The Emperor and Empress left the church with the
+same ceremony (we all following), and then there was
+a curious function. Under a dais, still in their court
+robes, their trains carried by six or eight officers, they
+walked around the enceinte, going into three or four
+churches to make their devotions, all of us and all the
+other Princes following, all their suites, and an accompaniment
+of bells, cannon, music, and cheers. (I forgot
+to say that when the Emperor put his crown on his head
+in the church, the cannon announced to his people that
+their sovereign was crowned.)</p>
+
+<p>We had a few drops of rain, then the sun came out
+strong, and I was rather wretched&mdash;however G&eacute;n&eacute;ral
+Pitti&eacute; came to my rescue, and shaded me with his hat (all
+the men were bareheaded). There were tribunes all
+along the route for the people who hadn't been able to
+get into the church; in one of them all the younger members
+of the Embassies, as of course <em>all</em> couldn't be got
+inside. These two were all gold and red, filled with
+women, mostly in white, and men in uniform. You can't
+imagine what a gorgeous sight it was, and the crowd
+below packed tight, all gaping at the spectacle.</p>
+
+<p>We didn't dirty our dresses (the trains of course we
+carried in our arms), I don't know why, as the red carpet
+was decidedly damp and muddyish in places. We
+finally arrived at the Vieux Palais, where we were to
+breakfast, and the Emperor and Empress were also to
+
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_68" title="pg 68"> </a>
+have a little respite before dining in state with their
+people.</p>
+
+<p>We had a handsome breakfast, quantities of gold and
+silver plate, and many Russian dishes. I didn't much like
+the looks of the soup, which was clear, but had various
+things floating about on it&mdash;uncooked fish, little black
+balls, which I thought might be caviar, which I don't ever
+like; and I was rather wondering what I should eat (I was
+very hungry), when my neighbor, Nigra, the Italian Ambassador,
+suggested I should share his meal. He didn't
+like Russian cookery either, so he had intrigued with a
+friendly official, who was going to bring him a cold
+chicken and a bottle of good red wine. I accepted joyfully,
+and we had a very good breakfast.</p>
+
+<p>I think we were about three-quarters of an hour at
+table, and it was very pleasant to sit down after those
+hours of standing. When the breakfast was over, a little
+after two, we were conducted to the Imperial dining-room,
+a square, low room in the old Kremlin with a
+vaulted ceiling, and heavy Byzantine decorations; quantities
+of paintings on a gold ground, bright coloured frescoes,
+most elaborate. There were great buffets and
+tables covered with splendid gold and silver plates, flagons,
+vases, etc. At the end of the room was a square,
+raised platform covered with red, and a splendid dais, all
+purple velvet, ermine, and gold embroidery where the
+Imperial couple were to dine with their faithful subjects.</p>
+
+<p>We strangers were merely admitted for a few minutes
+to see the beginning of the meal, and then we retired, and
+the Emperor remained alone with his people. Of course
+officers and officials of all descriptions were standing
+close round the platform. There was a large table to the
+left as we came in, where almost all the Russians were
+already assembled&mdash;all the women in the national dress,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_69" title="pg 69"> </a>
+high Kakoshnik, long white lace spangled veil, and a sort
+of loose hanging sleeve which was very effective. The
+ensemble was striking.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus082.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Illustration: Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes" id="illus082" title="Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes"> </a>
+<p class="center small">Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Presently we heard a sound of music and trumpets,
+which told us the Royalties were approaching, and as
+they came near we heard the familiar strains of the Polonaise
+from Glinka's opera "La Vie pour le Czar," which
+is always played when the Emperor and Empress appear.
+They came with the usual escort of officers and
+chamberlains, smiling and bowing graciously to all of us.
+They seated themselves (always in their cloth of gold
+mantles, and crowns on their heads) on the two throne
+chairs; a small table was placed in front of them, and then
+the dinner began.</p>
+
+<p>The soupi&egrave;re was preceded by a chamberlain in gold
+lace; held by a Master of Ceremonies, and flanked on
+each side by a gigantic Chevalier-garde, sabre-&agrave;-nu.
+There was always a collection of officials, chamberlains,
+pages, etc., bringing up the rear of the cort&eacute;ge, so that at
+each entr&eacute;e a little procession appeared. We saw three
+dishes brought in with the same ceremony&mdash;the fish was
+so large on a large silver dish that <em>two</em> Masters of Ceremonies
+held that.</p>
+
+<p>It was really a wonderful sight, like a picture in some
+old history of the Moyen Age. As soon <ins title="Transcriber's note: image read 'the' here.">as</ins> the Sovereigns
+had taken their places on the thrones all the
+Russians at their table sat down too. We couldn't, because
+we had nothing to sit upon, so we remained standing
+at the end of the room, facing the estrade. They
+told us that when the Emperor raised his glass and asked
+for wine that was the signal for us to retire; and that it
+would be after the roast. (All our instructions were
+most carefully given to us by Benckendorff, who felt his
+responsibility.) Think what his position would have
+
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_70" title="pg 70"> </a>
+been if any member of <em>his</em> Embassy had made a "gaffe."
+Accordingly as soon as the roast made its appearance
+all our eyes were riveted upon the Emperor. He
+raised his glass slowly (very high) to give us time.
+General Schweinitz, as Doyen, stepped well forward, and
+made a very low bow. We all bowed and curtseyed low
+(my knees are becoming more supple) and got ourselves
+out backwards. It wasn't very difficult, as we had
+our trains over our arms.</p>
+
+<p>I don't think we shall see anything more curious than
+that state banquet. I certainly shall never see again a
+soup tureen guarded by soldiers with drawn swords.</p>
+
+<p class="author">10 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>We dined quietly, everyone giving his experiences&mdash;of
+course the younger members of the Embassy, who
+had no places in the church, had a better impression of
+the ensemble than we had. They said the excitement
+and emotion of the crowd in the square before the church
+was extraordinary. All crossed themselves, and many
+cried, when the cannon told them that the Emperor was
+crowned. They seem to be an emotional, superstitious
+race. They also said the procession around the courts,
+when the Emperor and Empress were going to the various
+churches, was wonderful&mdash;a moving mass of feathers,
+jewels, banners, bright helmets, and cuirasses, all
+glittering in the sun.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner we drove about a little, seeing the illuminations,
+but the crowd was so dense we could hardly
+move, though the soldiers did all they could, and battered
+the people about. Then it began to rain a little, so I
+begged to come home. It is raining quite hard now&mdash;I
+hear it on the marquise. Heavens how tired I am.</p>
+
+<p>Of course I can't write half of what I have seen, but
+
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_71" title="pg 71"> </a>
+the papers will keep you quite au courant. Some of the
+newspaper correspondents were in the church, and of
+course plenty in the tribunes outside. Our carriages
+certainly made a great effect, and we were cheered various
+times on our way home.</p>
+
+<p>Madame Hubert talks so much she can hardly get
+me my things. She is as much pleased with her husband's
+appearance as I am with mine. What an experience
+for them, when you think that she had never been
+out of Villers-Cotterets and Bourneville when she came
+to us, and Paris seemed a Paradise.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France &agrave; Moscou</span>,<br >
+<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br >
+Monday, May 28th, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>We were all again in Court dress at 11 this morning to
+go to the Palace and present our felicitations to the Imperial
+couple. I wore the same blue dress, as my pink
+one goes on to-night for the "courtag" at the Palace. It
+seems there was some misunderstanding about our being
+received this morning, so some of our colleagues had
+come, and gone, rather put out at the vagueness of the
+instructions. We decided to remain, as we had arrived
+there in all our finery, particularly as one of the chamberlains
+told us it would be most interesting. Deputations
+from the provinces were to present addresses of
+felicitation and we would see all the national costumes.</p>
+
+<p>As we had some time to wait, the Greek chamberlain
+suggested that we should take advantage of that opportunity
+to be presented to the Queen of Greece. He
+thought he could arrange it, so he went off to her
+rooms, and presently reappeared with the maid of honour,
+Mlle. Colocotroni (a friend of Gertrude's), and we
+were taken at once to the Queen, who was standing in
+
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_72" title="pg 72"> </a>
+a small salon overlooking the river. She is young and
+handsome, fair, stoutish, but tall enough to carry it off
+well, and was chatty and sympathetic&mdash;said she supposed
+I was quite tired after yesterday, that it was certainly very
+trying; that the person who was the least tired was the
+Empress. She had met her in one of the corridors in
+the interval between the ceremony at the church, or
+rather the churches (as she went to three after leaving
+the Assomption). She had taken off her Imperial mantle
+and crown, and was going to see one of her numerous
+relations before beginning again.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as our audience was over we returned to the
+large audience hall, where we found Benckendorff tearing
+his hair, in a wild state, because we were late&mdash;all our
+colleagues had taken their places. However we were in
+time, and ranged ourselves, the ladies all together on
+the right, the men opposite. I was the Doyenne, and
+stood at the head of the column (as neither Lady Thornton
+nor Mdme. Schweinitz was there). All about the
+room were groups of people from the provinces waiting
+their turn, but there was such a crowd of uniforms and
+costumes that one could hardly distinguish anything.</p>
+
+<p>Presently the Court appeared&mdash;the Emperor always in
+uniform, the Empress in a very handsome train, blue velvet,
+embroidered in gold, and a splendid tiara, necklace
+and front of sapphires. They had the usual train of
+Princes, chamberlains, aides-de-camp, etc. As soon as
+they had taken their places on the platform all the
+Missions (men) advanced according to their rank. The
+Ambassador made a few steps forward, said a few words
+of felicitation to the Emperor (the Mission remaining at
+a respectful distance behind), then made a low bow, and
+all retired &agrave; reculons.</p>
+
+<p>The Austrian Embassy looked very well&mdash;the Hungarian
+
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_73" title="pg 73"> </a>
+uniforms are so handsome. The Americans also
+very well, though they have no uniform, wear ordinary
+black evening clothes. The Admiral and his two aides-de-camp
+of course wore theirs, but it is so quiet, dark
+blue with little lace, and no orders, that one would
+hardly have remarked it except for the epaulettes and
+aiguillettes.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as all the men of the Corps Diplomatique had
+passed the Empress left her place and came to us. Her
+train was carried by 4 pages, a high official, red velvet and
+gold lace, carrying the extreme end. She passed down
+the line of ladies, saying something to each one. I heard
+her speak three languages&mdash;English, French, and German&mdash;quite
+easily.</p>
+
+<p>We waited until the Court retired, and then there was
+the usual stampede for the carriages. I have not been
+out again this afternoon. We start for our Court ball
+at 8.45, and of course dine early. I was interrupted by
+Philippe, who came to coiffer me, having as usual
+stopped in the lingerie to inspect my dress, the pink one
+this time. He tells me he began to dress some of the
+heads for to-night at 12 this morning.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France &agrave; Moscou</span>,<br >
+<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br >
+Mardi, 29 Mai, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>I will begin my letter while I am waiting to go with
+some of the gentlemen and Benckendorff to see the
+preparations for the great people's f&ecirc;te. I couldn't write
+last night, I was so tired out. Two court dresses and
+functions, and hours of standing is a good deal for one
+day. We started early, at a quarter to 9. We assembled
+
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_74" title="pg 74"> </a>
+in the same room in the old Kremlin where the
+Imperial couple had dined this afternoon. Almost all
+our colleagues and some of the swell Russians were already
+there, and everyone moved about, talking and
+looking until the welcome strains of the march told us
+the Emperor and Empress were coming.</p>
+
+<p>One of the chamberlains showed me some of the most
+curious old bowls and flagons. The work is rather
+rough, and the stones enormous&mdash;not well cut&mdash;but the
+effect is good, half barbaric. The Court appeared always
+with the same brilliant suite&mdash;the Empress looked
+charming in a pink velvet train, embroidered in silver.
+All the Grand Duchesses in drap d'argent, bordered with
+beautiful black sable.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the Court arrived the polonaise began; the
+Emperor making the first with Queen of Greece, the
+Empress with Schweinitz. It was a charming sight. All
+the trains were &eacute;tal&eacute;es their full length. The gentleman
+takes his partner's hand, holding it very high, and they
+make a stately progress through the rooms. I didn't
+dance the first one. We had a very good view of the
+whole thing. It was a beautiful sight&mdash;the men all in
+uniform, with orders, and broad ribbons; and the women
+with their trains down the full length. The Russian
+trains, of white and silver bordered with fur, made a great
+effect.</p>
+
+<p>The Emperor danced (which is a fa&ccedil;on de parler only,
+as one walked through the rooms) with the Queen of
+Greece, Arch Duchess Charles Louis, and the Ambassadrices
+Lady Thornton, Mdme. Jaur&egrave;s, Countess Dudzeele,
+and me&mdash;the Empress with the 6 Ambassadors.
+I danced the second polonaise with the Grand Duke
+Wladimir, who is handsome and spirited looking. He
+told me who many of the people were. In one of the
+
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_75" title="pg 75"> </a>
+rooms were all the Russian women, not in costume, but
+in ordinary ball dress, all, however, wearing the Kakoshnik
+studded with jewels, and most becoming it was.</p>
+
+<p>I was much interested (before my turn came) to see
+how the ladies got back to their places after having been
+deposited by the Emperor in the middle of the room. He
+doesn't conduct his partner back as all the others do.
+He goes back to his own place, the lady makes a curtsey,
+and gets back to hers across the room backwards as well
+as she can. They seemed to get through all right. I
+rather enjoyed my polonaise with the Emperor. He
+showed me quantities of people&mdash;a splendid man from
+some part of Asia dressed in white, with jewels, coloured
+stones mostly, all down the front of his coat, and pistols
+in his belt with jewelled hilts. Also the Khan of Khiva,
+with all the front of his high fur cap covered with jewels,
+also his belt, which seemed made entirely of diamonds
+and rubies.</p>
+
+<p>The music was always the march from Glinka's opera;
+each band in turn taking it up as the cort&eacute;ge passed
+through the rooms. The last Polonaise finished about
+11.30, and the Court immediately retired. We had no
+refreshments of any kind, and made the same rush for the
+carriages.</p>
+
+<p>Our rentr&eacute;e to the Embassy is most amusing&mdash;the
+whole Mission precedes us, and when we arrive we find
+them ranged in a semicircle at the foot of the staircase,
+waiting to receive us. Richard says he never understood
+the gulf that separates an Ambassador Extraordinary
+from ordinary mortals until he accompanied his
+brother to Moscow.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_76" title="pg 76"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">5 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>We had rather an interesting afternoon. We met one
+of the committee at the place, sort of great plain, or
+meadow, where the F&ecirc;te Populaire is to be, near the
+Petrofski Palace, where the Emperor stayed before he
+made his public entr&eacute;e into Moscow, who showed us
+everything. There are quantities of little sheds or baraques,
+where everybody (and there will be thousands,
+he tells us) will receive a basket with a meat p&acirc;t&eacute;, a
+p&acirc;t&eacute; of confitures, a cake, and a package of bonbons.
+There are also great barrels of beer, where everyone can
+go with a mug and drink as much as he can hold.</p>
+
+<p>We asked M. (I forget his name) how it was possible
+to take precautions with such a crowd of people, but he
+said they anticipated no danger, it was the "people's
+day," which sounded to us rather optimistic. It was
+rather nice driving about.</p>
+
+<p>Now I have just been, at the request of Lhermite, to
+look at his table, as we have our first big dinner to-night
+(all Russians); all the flowers, "Roses de France," have
+just arrived from Paris&mdash;three nights on the road; they
+look quite fresh and beautiful,&mdash;were packed alone in
+large hampers. I shall wear my blue tulle ball-dress
+to-night, as we go to the ball at the Governor's Palace
+after dinner.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Wednesday, 30th.</p>
+
+<p>Our dinner was pleasant last night. As it was entirely
+Russian we had the curious meal they all take just before
+dinner. A table was spread in the small salon opening
+into the dining-room, with smoked and salted fish,
+caviare, cucumbers, anchovies, etc. They all partook,
+and then we passed into the dining-room, where the real
+business began. I sat between M. de Giers, Foreign
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_77" title="pg 77"> </a>
+Minister, and Count Worontzoff, Ministre de la Cour.
+They were very pleasant, and rather amusing over the
+exigencies of the suites of the foreign Princes; the
+smaller the Power the more important the chamberlains,
+equerries, etc.&mdash;rather like our own experience the year
+of the Exhibition in Paris, where a Baden equerry, I
+think, was forgotten (which of course was most improper
+at the Quai d'Orsay), and most delicate negotiations
+were necessary. Both gentlemen were very complimentary
+over the dinner and the flowers&mdash;asked where in
+Moscow we had been able to find them, and could hardly
+believe they had arrived this morning, three nights and
+three days on the road. They were beautiful, those
+lovely pink "Roses de France," which looked quite
+charming with the dark blue S&egrave;vres china.</p>
+
+<p>The guests went off about 10; and we half an hour
+later to the great ball. I wore my light blue tulle
+with silver braid; and I will add that I left the greater
+part of the tulle at the Palace. Happily the silk under-skirt
+was strong, or else I should have stood in my petticoats.
+The crowd and heat was something awful&mdash;the
+staircase was a regular bousculade, and I was thankful
+those big Russian spurs merely tore my flounces, and
+didn't penetrate any further. We finally arrived, struggling
+and already exhausted, in the ballroom, where we
+found all the Grand Dukes and Grand Duchesses already
+assembled to receive the Emperor.</p>
+
+<p>We had some little time to wait, so they all came over
+and talked to us. The Queen of Greece is most attractive&mdash;so
+simple. She noticed that my dress was torn and
+flowers crushed, but said, what was quite true, that no
+one would remark it in the crowd. We soon heard the
+sound of the March, and then there was such a rush
+towards the door by which the Emperor and Empress
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_78" title="pg 78"> </a>
+were to enter that we quickly withdrew into the embrasure
+of the window, and let the torrent pass. They tried
+to make a circle, but it was impossible. The crowd was
+dense. W. and I made our way quickly to the head of
+the stairs and waited there, as they had told us the Emperor
+would not stay long&mdash;merely make a tour through
+the rooms.</p>
+
+<p>They appeared very soon, shook hands with us both,
+and seemed very glad to get away. The Empress was
+in light blue, with a beautiful diamond tiara. It is rather
+pretty to see the Grand Duke Wladimir <em>always</em> close to
+his brother, to shield him from any danger. We were
+all rather cross when we got home.</p>
+
+<p>This morning I have been shopping with W., Richard,
+and Pont&eacute;coulant. It is rather an unsatisfactory performance,
+as we can't either speak or understand Russian.
+In the bazaars and real Moscow shops they know nothing
+but Russian. We take the little polygot boy with us (always
+ahead in his little droshky) but as he invariably announces
+"la grande Ambassade" we <em>see</em> the prices go up.
+Some of the enamel and gold and silver work is beautiful.
+Richard was quite fascinated with the Madonnas,
+with their black faces and wands, set in a handsome frame
+of gold, with light blue enamel. He bought two, one
+for Louise and one for me, which I am delighted to have.
+We bought various little boxes, some of lacquer, others
+in silver, rather prettily worked, and a variety of fancy
+spoons, buckles, etc.</p>
+
+<p>I must stop now and dress. We dine at 6, so as to be
+at the Op&eacute;ra at 9. We shall go "en gala," our three
+carriages, as it is a fine warm night. The detective is a
+little anxious for to-night (it would be such a good opportunity
+to get rid of all the Russian Princes, to say
+nothing of the foreigners). He and Pont&eacute;coulant suggested
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_79" title="pg 79"> </a>
+to W. that I should be left at home, but I protested
+vigorously. If they all go, I am going too. I
+don't feel very nervous, I wonder why; for it really is a
+little uncomfortable&mdash;unusual to hesitate about going to
+the Op&eacute;ra because one might be blown up.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author">Jeudi, May 31st, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>I was too tired to write last night, though the opera
+was over fairly early. It was a beautiful sight, the house
+brilliantly lighted and crowded, nothing but uniforms,
+orders, and jewels. There was one dark box, which of
+course attracted much attention; the Americans&mdash;all the
+men in black, except the three naval officers&mdash;(we were
+acclam&eacute;s all along the route, and I must say Leroy and
+Hubert looked very well in their tricornes and powdered
+wigs). I wore the cr&egrave;me embroidered velvet with blue
+satin front, tiara, and blue feathers in my hair. I fancy
+Philippe had made a sort of tower on the top of my
+head, but he again assured me I must have a "coiffure de
+circonstance."</p>
+
+<p>The square before the Op&eacute;ra was brilliantly lighted
+(they certainly light most beautifully in Russia&mdash;thousands
+of candles everywhere), a red carpet down, and
+quantities of palms and flowers&mdash;always also quantities
+of gilded gentlemen. We didn't wait very long for the
+Court to appear&mdash;about a quarter of an hour&mdash;and were
+much taken up looking at everything, and everybody,
+and trying to recognize our friends. A large box at one
+end of the house, opposite the stage, was reserved for
+the Royalties, all draped of course in red and gold.</p>
+
+<p>Everyone rose when the Emperor and Empress arrived,
+always with their brilliant cort&eacute;ge of Princes. One
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_80" title="pg 80"> </a>
+of the most striking uniforms was the Prince of
+Montenegro's, but they all made a fine show, and a most
+effective background for the women&mdash;the orchestra playing
+the Russian Hymn, the chorus singing it, all the
+house applauding, and all eyes fixed on the Royal box.</p>
+
+<p>It was really magnificent, and the Emperor looked
+pleased. They gave the first act of Glinka's opera "La
+Vie pour le Czar." When the curtain fell the whole
+house rose again; when the Emperor and Empress left
+their box there was a general movement among the people,
+and some of our colleagues had come to pay us a visit
+when Count Worontzoff (Ministre de la Cour) appeared
+and said, "Sa Majest&eacute;" hoped we would come and have
+tea with her, and he would have the honour of showing
+us the way; so he gave me his arm and took me to the
+foyer, which was very well arranged with flowers, plants,
+and red carpets.</p>
+
+<p>There were several round tables. He took me to the
+Empress' table, where were the Queen of Greece, Grand
+Duchesses Constantine and Wladimir, Lady Thornton,
+and Madame Jaur&egrave;s; also Nigra, Schweinitz, and a
+brother of the Shah de Perse. The Empress looked so
+young, in white, with a broad red ribbon, and splendid
+diamonds. The Queen of Greece was charming, asked
+me if I ever found time to write to Francis. The Emperor
+didn't sit down&mdash;he walked about between the
+tables, and talked to everybody.</p>
+
+<p>We stayed, I should think, about half an hour at the
+tea-table, and then went back to the theatre. The ballet
+was long, but interesting, all the mazurkas of the Empire
+were danced in costume. We got our carriages easily
+enough, and the arrangements were good. The younger
+members of the Mission who didn't go for tea with the
+Empress found the entr'acte long.</p>
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_81" title="pg 81"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, June 2d.</p>
+
+<p>I couldn't write yesterday, Dear, for I was in bed until
+dinner-time, thoroughly tired out. Neither W. nor I
+went to the ball on Thursday night given by the "Noblesse
+de Moscou." I hoped to be able to go to the ball
+of the German Embassy last night, but I couldn't do that
+either. I felt rather better about 6 o'clock, and sent for
+my dress, as W. particularly wanted me to go, but the
+minute I stood up and tried to dress I was half fainting,
+so there was no use persisting.</p>
+
+<p>The fatigue has been something awful, and the hours
+of standing have made it impossible to put on my Paris
+shoes, and I have been obliged to buy white satin <em>boats</em>
+at one of the Moscow shoemakers. The bootmakers
+will make his fortune, as it seems everybody is in the
+same state. The Empress even can't wear her usual
+shoes, and all the women have left off coquettish little
+shoes that match their dresses, and taken to these rather
+primitive chaussures.</p>
+
+<p>W. and all the gentlemen went to the ball, and said
+it was very handsome&mdash;everything, silver, supper, servants,
+etc., had been sent from Berlin. Madame
+Schweinitz, who has a young baby, arrived from Petersburg
+the morning of the ball. Count Eulenbourg&mdash;one
+of the German Emperor's Ma&icirc;tres des C&eacute;r&eacute;monies&mdash;had
+also arrived to decide about the questions of precedence,
+place, etc. The Court remained to supper, so of course
+the Ambassadors were obliged to stay. W. got home at
+2 o'clock, very late for this country, where everything
+begins early.</p>
+
+<p>Richard and Pont&eacute;coulant are getting great friends.
+Pont&eacute;coulant blagues<sup><a href="#fn5" id="r5">[5]</a></sup> him all the time&mdash;says he is getting
+a perfect courtier, and that his electors in the Seine
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_82" title="pg 82"> </a>
+Inf&eacute;rieure would be scandalized if they could see him. I
+must dress now for the "F&ecirc;te Populaire," and will write
+more when I get back.</p>
+
+<p class="author">9 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>I have retired to my own quarters. W. dines with
+Nigra, so I have remained in my dressing-room, as
+I have still a "fond de fatigue." The F&ecirc;te Populaire
+was interesting. The day has been beautiful, and
+there was not a hitch of any kind. The drive out
+was interesting, on account of the people, a steady stream
+of peasants of all ages going the same way. We went
+at once to the Loge Imp&eacute;riale, a large pavilion erected at
+the entrance facing the great plain. The space was so
+enormous that one hardly distinguished anything. The
+booths and towers looked like little spots, and they were
+very far off. The Emperor and Empress never left the
+Loge. He certainly didn't go down and walk about
+among the people, as some enthusiastic gentlemen had
+told us he would. Of course all the same people were
+assembled in the Loge&mdash;Diplomatists, Court officials,
+officers, etc. There was a cold lunch always going on.</p>
+
+<p>There were many white dresses&mdash;all Russian women
+wear white a great deal at any age. The Princess
+Kotchoubey&mdash;78 years old&mdash;who put the Imperial mantle
+on the Empress the day of the sacre, and who had
+done the same thing for the late Empress, was dressed
+entirely in white, bonnet, mantle, everything.</p>
+
+<p>The Court remained about an hour, and we left as soon
+as they did. There was some little delay getting our
+carriages, but on the whole the thing was well managed.
+Already some people were coming away looking very
+smiling, and carrying their baskets most carefully. I will
+bring you one of the mugs they gave me with the chiffre
+of the Emperor and Empress, and the date.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_83" title="pg 83"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, June 3d.</p>
+
+<p>I stayed at home all the morning, quite pleased to have
+nothing to do. This afternoon W., Pont&eacute;coulant, and I
+went for a little turn. We got out of the carriage at the
+Kremlin, and walked about, having a quiet look at
+everything. The view from the terrace was enchanting,
+the afternoon sun lighting up all the curious old buildings,
+and bringing out the colours of everything.</p>
+
+<p>This evening we have had a diplomatic dinner. I was
+between Schweinitz and Sir Edward Thornton. Both of
+them talked a great deal. After dinner I talked some
+time to Hunt, whom I like very much. He says many
+people, Russians particularly, couldn't understand why
+he didn't wear his uniform&mdash;"ce n'est pas tr&egrave;s poli pour
+nous." They can't conceive that the representative of a
+great Power shouldn't be attired in velvet and gold like
+all the rest of the Embassies.</p>
+
+<p>The table was again covered with pink roses. They
+just last through the dinner, and fall to pieces as soon as
+they are taken out of the vases. Some of them looked
+so fresh, not even in full bloom, that I thought I could
+send some French roses to Countess Pahlen, and the
+moment we left the dining-room Lhermite took them
+off the table, but they fell to pieces in his hands, covering
+the floor with their petals.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Monday, June 4th.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we have been photographed in the
+court-yard&mdash;the whole establishment, gala carriages, servants,
+horses, moujiks, maids, cooks, etc. First there
+was the "classic" group of the Mission, W. and I seated
+in front, with all the gentlemen standing around us. It
+was very long getting the poses all right so as to show
+everybody in an advantageous light; and as it is (judging
+
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_84" title="pg 84"> </a>
+from the clich&eacute;) Fran&ccedil;ois de Corcelle looks as if he was
+throttling me. Then came the group of the whole party,
+and it was amusing to see how eager the Russian maids
+and the stable-men were to be well placed. They stood
+as still as rocks. We waited a little to see the gala carriages
+and horses taken, but that was too long. The
+horses were nervous, and never were quiet an instant.
+Now someone has gone to get a drum&mdash;they think the
+sudden noise may make them all look in the same direction
+for a moment.</p>
+
+<p>W. and I have been out for a turn&mdash;to the Kremlin
+of course, which is really the most interesting part of
+Moscow. There is always the same crowd hurrying and
+jostling each other. We went all over St. Basile. The
+inside is curious, with a succession of rooms and dark recesses,
+but the outside is unique; such an agglomeration
+of domes, steeples, bell-towers; all absolutely different in
+shape and colour&mdash;perfectly barbarous, but very striking.</p>
+
+<p>W. enjoys our quiet afternoon drives, the perpetual
+representation, seeing always the same people, and saying
+and hearing the same things, is beginning to tire
+him. It is a curious life. We see nothing but the Court
+and the people&mdash;no haute bourgeoisie nor intermediate
+class, and yet they exist, people in finance and commercial
+affairs. They certainly have had no part in the
+show&mdash;I should think there must be great discontent.
+The young generation certainly will never be satisfied to
+be kept entirely out of everything. Some of them have
+travelled, been educated in England, have handsome
+houses, English horses, etc., but apparently they don't
+exist&mdash;at least we have never seen any.</p>
+
+<p>I must stop, as we dress and dine early for the Palace
+Ball. My Dear, my dress is frightfully green (Delannoy's
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_85" title="pg 85"> </a>
+green velvet coat over pink tulle). Of course we
+chose it by candle-light, when it looked charming; but
+as we dress and start by daylight I am rather anxious.
+I consulted Pont&eacute;coulant, who came in just as the maids
+were bringing it in. He said, "C'est bien vert, Madame."
+Let us hope that the light of thousands of wax candles
+may have a subduing effect.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France, Moscow</span>,<br >
+<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br >
+June 5, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>The Palace ball was quite beautiful last night. I had
+some misgivings as to my dress until we got to the
+Palace, as the gentlemen of the Embassy had evidently
+found me <em>very green</em> when we assembled in the great
+hall before starting; however as soon as we arrived in
+the big room of the Palace where we were all marshalled,
+Countess Linden (an American born) said to me at once
+"Oh, Mdme. Waddington, how lovely your pink roses
+look on the <em>dark blue</em> velvet," so I knew it was all right.
+I wore that dress of Delannoy's which she was sure would
+be most effective&mdash;pink tulle skirts&mdash;with a green velvet
+habit (chosen of course by candle-light) so that it did
+look very green by daylight, and a wreath of pink roses
+round the d&eacute;collet&eacute;. I remember both Henrietta and
+Pauline were a little doubtful&mdash;but it certainly made
+more effect than any dress I wore except the blue manteau
+de cour. I will tell Delannoy. We always go in by
+a special side entrance to these Palace functions, which
+is a pity, as we miss the grand staircase, which they
+told us was splendid with red carpets, soldiers, and gold-laced
+gentlemen to-night. We waited some time, an
+hour certainly, before the Court came, but as all the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_86" title="pg 86"> </a>
+Corps Diplomatique were assembled there it was pleasant
+enough, and we all compared our experiences and our
+fatigue, for everybody was dead tired&mdash;the men more
+than the women.</p>
+
+<p>The rooms are magnificent&mdash;very high, and entirely
+lighted by wax candles&mdash;thousands; one of the chamberlains
+told me how many, but I would scarcely dare to
+say. The Court arrived with the usual ceremony and
+always the same brilliant suite of officers and foreign
+Princes. The Emperor and Empress looked very smiling,
+and not at all tired. She was in white, with splendid
+diamonds and the broad blue ribbon of St. Andr&eacute;. He
+always in uniform. As soon as they appeared the polonaises
+began, this time three only, which the Emperor
+danced with the ladies of the family. I danced the first
+with the Grand Duke Wladimir. He is charming and
+amiable, but has a stern face when he isn't smiling. I
+think if the Russians ever feel his hand it will be a heavy
+one. I danced the second with the Grand Duke Alexis,
+and looked on at the third. It was not nearly so fine a
+sight as the Court ball at the old palace. <em>There</em> the mixture
+of modern life and dress and half barbaric costumes
+and ornamentations was so striking; also the trains made
+such an effect, being all &eacute;tal&eacute;d one was obliged to keep a
+certain distance, and that gave a stately air to the whole
+thing which was wanting last night when all the women
+were in ordinary ball dress, not particularly long, so that
+the cort&eacute;ge was rather crowded and one saw merely a
+mass of jewelled heads (the dress was lost). Also they
+merely walked around the ballroom, not going through
+all the rooms as we did at the old palace.</p>
+
+<p>When the polonaises were over there were one or two
+waltzes. The Empress made several turns, but with the
+Princes only, and we stood and looked on.</p>
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_87" title="pg 87"> </a></p>
+
+<p>While we were waiting there until someone should
+come and get us for some new function I heard a sort of
+scuffle behind me and a woman's impatient voice saying
+in English "I can't bear it another moment," and a sound
+of something falling or rolling across the floor. I turned
+round and saw Mdme. A&mdash;&mdash; (a secretary's wife, also an
+American) apparently struggling with something, and
+very flushed and excited. I said, "What is the matter?"
+"I am kicking off my shoes." "But you can never put
+them on again." "I don't care if I never see them again&mdash;I
+can't stand them another minute." "But you have
+to walk in a cort&eacute;ge to supper with the Imperial party."
+"I don't care at all, I shall walk in my stockings," then
+came another little kick, and the slipper disappeared, rolling
+underneath a heavy damask curtain. I quite sympathized
+with her, as my beautiful white slippers (Moscow
+manufacture) were not altogether comfortable, but I
+think I should not have had the strength of mind to discard
+them entirely. When I was dressing, Adelaide tried
+to persuade me that I had better put on the pink satin
+slippers that matched my dress; but my experience of the
+hours of standing at all Russian Court functions had at
+least taught me not to start with anything that was at all
+tight.</p>
+
+<p>While we were looking at the dancing the Grand Duke
+Michel came over and asked me if I wouldn't come and
+stand a little with the Grand Duchesses. He took me to a
+little group where were the Grand Duchesses Michel and
+Constantine and the Queen of Greece (she is always so
+gay and natural). They at once asked me who had made
+my dress, and what color it was. They had been talking
+about it, and couldn't agree. The Grand Duchess Constantine
+had on her emeralds, and beautiful they were&mdash;blocks
+of stone, rather difficult to wear. She must have
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_88" title="pg 88"> </a>
+been very handsome, has still a beautiful figure, and holds
+herself splendidly.</p>
+
+<p>We talked music a little&mdash;she said I ought to hear
+some of the people's songs. I should like to very much,
+but there doesn't seem any place where one can hear the
+national songs. The men of the Embassy went one night
+to the "Hermitage," where there was a little of everything,
+and did hear some of the peasants singing their
+national airs, but they didn't seem to think I could go.
+While we were still talking there was a move, and they
+said the Empress (who had been dancing all the time in
+a small circle made for her at her end of the ballroom
+and very strictly kept) was going to have tea. All the
+Court and suite followed, and I was rather wondering
+how to get back to my place and my colleagues when a
+tall aide-de-camp came up and said he would have the
+honour of conducting me to Her Majesty's tea&mdash;so we
+started off across several rooms and corridors, which
+were crowded, and arrived at a door where the two gigantic
+negroes were standing. He said something&mdash;the
+doors flew open&mdash;he made me a low bow and retired (as
+he couldn't come any farther), and I found myself standing
+alone in a large room with four or five tables&mdash;everyone
+seated. For a moment I didn't know quite what
+to do, and felt rather shy, but the Princess Kotchoubey,
+Grande Ma&icirc;tresse, who was standing in the middle of the
+room, came forward at once and took me to the Duchesse
+d'Edimbourg's table, where there were also the
+Arch-Duchess Charles Louis, the Duchess of Oldenburg,
+a young Hessian Prince, and my two colleagues,
+Lady Thornton and Madame Jaur&egrave;s.</p>
+
+<p>We had tea and ices&mdash;didn't talk much, except the
+Duchess of Edinburgh, who seems clever and ready to
+talk&mdash;but I wasn't near her. I didn't see all the Ambassadors,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_89" title="pg 89"> </a>
+mine certainly wasn't there, and of course very
+few comparatively of our colleagues, as only Ambassadors
+and their wives were invited to Her Majesty's tea
+(no small fry, like Ministers).</p>
+
+<p>I had the explanation of W.'s absence later. When
+the Court moved off to tea General Wolseley suggested
+that W. should come and smoke a cigar in his room. He
+was lodged at the Kremlin with his Prince, the Duke of
+Edinburgh. He, like a true Briton, had enough of bowing
+and standing. W. was naturally quite of the same
+opinion, so they picked up Admiral Seymour (also with
+the Duke of Edinburgh) and had a very pleasant hour
+smoking and talking until they were summoned for supper.
+<em>That</em> they couldn't get out of, as we made a fine
+procession directly behind the Court through all the
+rooms to St. George's Hall&mdash;a great white high room
+magnificently lighted, with tablets all around the walls
+with the names of the Knights of the Order of St. George
+who had died in battle, and a souper assis for 800 people.
+Sir Edward Thornton, British Ambassador, took me.
+As we were parading through the rooms between two
+hedges of gaping people looking at the cort&eacute;ge, dresses,
+diamonds, etc., I thought of Mdme. A&mdash;&mdash; and her
+stockings, and wondered how she was getting on. I daresay
+quite well; as she had a yellow satin dress and yellow
+silk stockings perhaps no one noticed anything, and as
+long as she didn't step on a needle or anything sharp she
+was all right. Someone will find a nice little pair of
+yellow satin shoes under the window-curtains in the ballroom
+when the cleaning up is done after the f&ecirc;tes.</p>
+
+<p>The hall was a blaze of light and jewels&mdash;a long table
+across the end for the Imperial party, and all of us at two
+long tables running the whole length of the room. The
+gold and silver plate was very handsome, particularly the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_90" title="pg 90"> </a>
+massive flambeaux and high ornaments for the middle of
+the table. The supper was good, hot, and quickly served.
+There was music all the time&mdash;singers, men and women,
+in a gallery singing all sorts of Russian airs which nobody
+listened to. The Emperor did not sit down to
+supper. He remained standing in the middle of the
+room talking to his gentlemen, and a few words to the
+diplomatists when supper was over and one loitered a
+little before going back to the ballroom. He certainly
+doesn't care to talk to strangers&mdash;seeks them out very
+little, and when he does talk it is absolutely banal. Is it
+"paresse d'esprit" or great reserve?&mdash;one hardly knows.
+I should think all this parade and function bored him
+extremely. They say he is very domestic in his tastes,
+and what he likes best is the country with his wife and
+children.</p>
+
+<p>After supper we went back to the ballroom for about
+half an hour. Then the Court retired and we followed
+them at once. We got our carriages fairly quickly.
+There are always crowds in the streets waiting to see the
+grand-monde pass. The Kremlin looks fairy-like as we
+drive through&mdash;lights everywhere, some high, high up in
+a queer little octagon green tower&mdash;then a great doorway
+and staircase all lighted, with quantities of servants
+and soldiers standing about; then a bit of rough pavement
+in a half dark court and under a little low dark
+gate with a shrine and Madonna at one end&mdash;all so perfectly
+unmodern, and unlike anything else.</p>
+
+<p class="tb">&nbsp;  </p>
+
+<p>I began my letter this morning before breakfast, but
+didn't finish, as I was called off by some visits, and now
+I will try and send this off by to-night's courier. We have
+had a nice afternoon looking at the Tr&eacute;sor. Of course it
+was very hurried&mdash;it would take weeks to see everything.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_91" title="pg 91"> </a>
+The collection of state carriages and sleighs is interesting.
+Almost all the carriages are French&mdash;either given
+to the various Russian Sovereigns by French Kings, or
+ordered in France by the Sovereigns themselves. The
+great sledge in which Catharine II. made all her long
+voyages is comfortable enough, and not unlike the "wagons
+imp&eacute;riaux" in which we travelled from Varsovie to
+Moscow.</p>
+
+<p>Then we saw all the Coronation robes, crowns, sapphires,
+swords, jewelled belts and collars, furs, etc., of
+all the old Emperors from Ivan the Terrible down to the
+late Emperor. Some of the crowns of the first Ivans
+and Peters are extraordinary&mdash;a sort of high fur cap
+covered with jewels, but heavy and roughly made&mdash;the
+jewels always beautiful, such large stones, particularly
+sapphires and rubies. There were vitrines full of splendid
+gold and silver cups and dishes, presents to the Emperor
+from all the different provinces.</p>
+
+<p>They tell us the present Emperor has had magnificent
+things given to him, but we have not seen them yet.
+We met various people also going through the Museum,
+and I had quite a talk with Radziwill (you know which
+one I mean, who married Countess Malatesta's daughter).
+It seemed funny to go back to the old Roman
+days, and the evenings (prima-sera) in the Malatesta Palace.
+He says everybody is worn out with the ceremonies
+and the standing&mdash;however, to-night is the end,
+with our dinner at the Palace.</p>
+
+<p>I have again been interrupted&mdash;this time by a visit
+from the Duc d'Aoste, whom I always find charming.
+He is not at all expansive and very shy, but when one
+breaks the ice he is interesting. He doesn't look like
+anybody else, nor as if he belonged to this century. It
+is quite the face one would see in any old Spanish picture&mdash;a
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_92" title="pg 92"> </a>
+soldier-monk of Velasquez. He talked about the
+Exhibition of '78, when W. was at the Foreign Office,
+and I was almost tempted to tell him how embarrassed
+we all were on the opening day when there were so many
+Ex-Spanish Sovereigns&mdash;King Fran&ccedil;ois d'Assises, Queen
+Isabella, and King Am&eacute;d&eacute;e. There was a big reception
+in the evening at the Elys&eacute;e, and the Mar&eacute;chal
+<sup><a href="#fn6" id="r6">[6]</a></sup> was
+rather bothered with all his Spanish Royalties. However,
+Queen Isabella and the Duc d'Aoste were evidently on
+the best of terms. I saw them talking together, and I
+believe all the Spaniards liked d'Aoste, though naturally
+they wanted a King of their own race.</p>
+
+<p>Here is Monsieur Philippe for his last coiffure, as he
+says somewhat sadly. To-night's dinner is our last function.
+We have then the revue, by daylight, of course,
+and leave on Sunday for Petersburg.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Wednesday, June 6th.</p>
+
+<p>The gala dinner was handsome and <em>short</em> last night.
+W. and I went off alone (none but chefs de mission were
+invited) in the coup&eacute; d'Orsay, always with Benckendorff
+in his carriage in front&mdash;W. in uniform, I in my white
+and silver brocade, white feathers and diamonds in my
+hair, no colour anywhere, not even on my cheeks, which
+reduces Philippe to a state of prostrate stupefaction&mdash;"Madame
+qui pourrait &ecirc;tre si bien."</p>
+
+<p>We were received at the foot of the staircase and at
+the doors by all the Chamberlains as usual and taken at
+once to the same Salle St. George where we were to dine&mdash;all
+at the Imperial table this time&mdash;about 500 couverts.
+We were shown at once our seats&mdash;all the places
+were marked, and we stood waiting behind our chairs
+(like the footmen) for the Court to appear. I found myself
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_93" title="pg 93"> </a>
+seated between the Duc d'Aoste and the young
+Crown Prince of Sweden, so I was quite satisfied. One
+of my colleagues was very anxious I should change the
+papers&mdash;give her my Duke and take her's, who was never
+civil to her, but would be perhaps to me, but I demurred,
+as I knew mine would be nice, and I didn't know her's
+at all. I don't think he was very nice to her, certainly
+didn't talk much, but perhaps he never does.</p>
+
+<p>We didn't wait very long. The Court was fairly
+punctual&mdash;the Empress looked very nice, all in white
+with diamonds. She had on her right the Duc d'Edimbourg
+(who always had the place of honour), and on her
+left the Prince Waldemar de Danemark, her brother. The
+Emperor had the Queen of Greece on his right, the Arch
+Duchess Charles Louis on his left. The dinner wasn't
+bad, and was quickly served. The fish were enormous,
+served on large silver dishes as big as boats. There was
+always that curious Russian soup with all sorts of nondescript
+things floating about on the surface. The Duc
+d'Aoste was as nice as possible&mdash;said the Court officials
+would be enchanted when everything was over, and all
+the foreign Princes safely back in their own countries,
+that the question of etiquette was something awful. As
+soon as the Russian Court decided anything all the others
+immediately protested&mdash;used all sorts of precedents, and
+complicated matters in every way. I suggested that he
+himself was difficult to place on account of the Duc de
+Montpensier, who was here as a Spanish Prince, husband
+of the Infanta. He replied "Absolument pas&mdash;je suis
+ici comme prince italien, fr&egrave;re du roi," declining any sort
+of Spanish souvenir.</p>
+
+<p>When dinner was over we passed into the salle St. Andr&eacute;
+for coffee, and that was funny too. As soon as the
+Emperor and Empress made the move all our Dukes and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_94" title="pg 94"> </a>
+Princes got up at once, and joined the Imperial procession,
+and we followed all in a heap. There we had a
+pleasant half hour, the Empress and the Grand Duchesses
+came over and talked to us, hoped we were not tired,
+that we had been interested, etc. I said to the Grand
+Duchess Constantine that they must be enchanted to be
+at the end of their functions, and to get rid of us all&mdash;but
+she said not at all. She herself was much less tired
+than when she began. She asked me what I had found
+the most striking in all the ceremonies. I said certainly
+the Coronation&mdash;first the moment when the Emperor
+crowned himself&mdash;the only figure standing on the dais,
+and afterwards when he crowned the Empress, she kneeling
+before him.</p>
+
+<p>The Empress asked me if I was going straight back to
+France, but she didn't say, as so many of the others did,
+"Ce n'est pas adieu pour vous, Mdme. Waddington, mais
+au revoir, car vous reviendrez certainement." Admiral
+Jaur&egrave;s having already resigned many people think W.
+will be the next Ambassador, but he certainly won't
+come.</p>
+
+<p>About 9 the Court retired. We had dined at 7, so the
+whole thing took about two hours. It was quite light
+when we came out of the Palace, and when we got back
+to the Maison Klein we found the Embassy just finishing
+dinner, still in the dining-room. We sat a few minutes
+with them telling our experiences. W. had been next to
+the Grand Duchess Michel, who was very animated and
+intelligent, and extremely well posted in all literary and
+political matters, and fairly just for a Princess speaking
+about a Republic.</p>
+
+<p>Poor Pont&eacute;coulant has had a telegram telling him of
+his brother's death. He is very much upset, and goes
+off to-night. W. will miss him extremely&mdash;he was his
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_95" title="pg 95"> </a>
+right-hand man. I have been out this morning shopping
+with Fran&ccedil;ois de Courcelle. It isn't easy, as our
+Russian is not fluent, but still we managed to find a few
+things.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon I have been with Lagren&eacute; (Consul),
+Sesmaisons, Corcelle, and Calmon to the great institution
+of the "Enfants Trouv&eacute;s" fond&eacute;e par l'Imp&eacute;ratrice
+Cath&eacute;rine II. There we found Admiral Jaur&egrave;s and all
+his staff, and a director who showed us all over the
+establishment&mdash;of course everything was in perfect order,
+and perfectly clean (and I believe it always is), but I
+should have preferred not having our visit announced,
+so as to see the every-day working of the thing. We
+went through quantities of rooms. In all, the Russian
+nurses with their high head-dress (kakoshnik), the colour
+of the room, were standing, and showed us most
+smilingly their babies. The rooms are all known by
+their colours and the nurses dressed to correspond. All
+pink kakoshniks, for instance, in the pink room, blue
+in the blue room, etc. It was rather effective when
+all the women were standing in groups. The nurses
+were decidedly young, some rather pretty faces, almost
+all fair. The surveillante is a nice, kindly looking
+woman. We saw the whole ceremony. In one of the
+rooms of the rez-de-chauss&eacute;e we saw several women
+waiting to take the children. The operation is always
+the same&mdash;one writes down at once the name and age
+of the child (which is generally written on a piece of
+paper pinned on to the clothes), they are always very
+young, 5 or 6 days old. Then they are undressed,
+weighed, and carried off by one of the nurses, wrapped up
+in a blanket, to a bath. After the bath they are dressed
+in quite clean, nice garments, and the nurse gives them
+the breast at once. All the rooms, dortoirs, salles-debain,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_96" title="pg 96"> </a>
+laundries, kitchens, are as clean as possible, plenty
+of light and air, and no smells. We met Countess Pahlen
+going out as we came in, also the Arch Duke Charles
+Louis.</p>
+
+<p>As we still had time before dinner we went to see the
+new church of St. Sauveur, where there is to be a great
+ceremony of consecration to-morrow; but as it is principally
+to celebrate the retreat of the French Army from
+Moscow the two French Embassies abstain from that
+function. We met there Prince Dolgourouky, Governor
+of Moscow, who did the honours, and showed us the
+marbles, which are very varied and handsome, all from
+the provinces of the Empire. The place was full of workmen
+putting up tribunes, red and gold draperies, etc.,
+but the Prince, with much tact, made no allusion to to-morrow's
+function&mdash;so we apparently didn't notice anything
+unusual in the church, and concentrated our attention
+on the beautiful Russian marble.</p>
+
+<p class="author">11 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>I will finish to-night. We have had our second diplomatic
+dinner, and I found it pleasant, I hope the guests
+did. I had Mgr.<sup><a href="#fn7" id="r7">[7]</a></sup> Vannutelli, the Nonce, next to me. He
+is charming&mdash;such an easy talker. He arrived after the
+sacre, as of course he could take no part in the ceremony.
+He told me the dream of his life was to come to
+Paris, and I think he would have a great success. He
+and Prince Orloff talked very easily together, and Orloff
+told him he ought to come to Paris. Orloff also says
+that W. ought to come back here as Ambassador, that
+he would be decidedly a "persona grata," but that isn't
+W.'s impression. He has talked to a good many men
+who are about the Court and the Emperor, and he thinks
+a soldier, not a political man, would be a much better
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_97" title="pg 97"> </a>
+appointment. We shall miss Pont&eacute;coulant awfully. He
+is so easy-going and looks after everything, always
+smoothing things over&mdash;very necessary in a temporary
+Embassy like this where all pull apart a little, and there
+is a sort of dull friction and rivalry between the soldiers
+and the diplomatists. It is funny to live entirely with a
+quantity of men, but they are all charming to me.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France, Moscow</span>,<br >
+<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br >
+Thursday, June 7th, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>W. and I have had such a quiet conjugal day that we
+can hardly believe we are still "Ambassadeur Extraordinaire."
+We breakfasted t&ecirc;te-&agrave;-t&ecirc;te, as all the gentlemen
+have gone off to the Convent of St. Serge, which is one
+of the things to see here. They have a very fine tr&eacute;sor.
+The Emperor and Empress made retraite there before
+the sacre. After breakfast W. looked over his despatches,
+and I played a little some Russian music which
+Benckendorff had given me.</p>
+
+<p>About three we started off for "les Moineaux," a hill
+near Moscow from which Napoleon had his first view of
+the city. There was no sun, which was a pity, as all the
+colour of Moscow makes it so original and different from
+everything else&mdash;however the city looked mysterious and
+poetical in a sort of pink brume. We met various colleagues
+going the same way&mdash;Nigra always in his
+"Troika" (Russian attelage) and the Hunts. Nigra came
+and joined us on the terrace, and we had tea together.
+They offered us a great many things, but we declined
+experiments, and kept on saying "Tchai" (which means
+tea), until they brought it. Nigra told W. he should
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_98" title="pg 98"> </a>
+taste the peculiar brandy of the country which all drink&mdash;prince
+and peasant&mdash;but I think W. did not like it much.
+Nigra was most agreeable. He is Italian Ambassador to
+Petersburg, and knows everybody. He says Russian
+Society is rather ferm&eacute;e, unless you take their ways and
+hours. All the ladies receive late, after the theatres,
+every evening. It is quite informal&mdash;a cup of tea, very
+often music, and really interesting talk. He says the
+women are remarkably intelligent and cultivated&mdash;en
+masse cleverer than the men. I wonder if he would go
+as far about them as Lord Lyons did about American
+women. When he came back from America he said he
+had <em>never</em> met a stupid American woman. We had a
+pleasant hour on the terrace, and then started home
+again.</p>
+
+<p>We crossed the Empress driving with her brother,
+Prince Waldemar, in an ordinary open carriage (harnessed
+Russian fashion&mdash;the three horses) and with no
+escort nor <em>apparent</em> policemen of any kind. She looked
+very well and smiling, and so young. There was not
+much movement on the road&mdash;a few carriages and peasant's
+carts. As soon as we got into Moscow we fell at
+once into the same staring, quiet crowd; but I fancy
+many people have already gone. The streets were not
+nearly so full.</p>
+
+<p>I had just time to dress, and dined alone with the
+gentlemen. W. and G&eacute;n&eacute;ral Pitti&eacute; dined with the Nonce,
+Mgr. Vannutelli, and were to go to Countess Pahlen's
+reception afterwards. The expedition to the Convent
+seems to have been very successful, but long. They gave
+them breakfast in the refectory&mdash;a very frugal meal&mdash;and
+showed them all their treasures. I stayed a little
+while in the serre while they were smoking. Now they
+have all gone out and I am not sorry to finish my evening
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_99" title="pg 99"> </a>
+quietly in my little boudoir. I am getting quite accustomed
+to my little room, with its ugly green and gold
+silk furniture (quite hideous, such a bright, hard green).
+The chairs and sofa are so heavy it takes two of us to
+move them. There are quantities of tables and candles
+(40 or 50 at least, no lamps of any description), in
+branches, double candlesticks, etc. I have great difficulty
+in persuading the little Russian maid not to light
+them all, all the time; and when I have about 12 to dress
+by she evidently considers me in the dark absolutely. I
+<em>think</em> I have dressed sometimes with two, quite contented,
+in the old days.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Friday, June 8th.</p>
+
+<p>I walked about a little with Corcelle this morning.
+We went into one fur shop where we found a woman
+who spoke French, but there was nothing very tempting.
+They all advise us to wait for our furs at Petersburg, all
+the best furs are sent there&mdash;however we bought a very
+good fur lining for a driving coat (each of us) and I a
+fur couverture&mdash;principally I think because the woman
+was nice, and it was a pleasure to talk ourselves and not
+through the little boy of the Consulate, of whom I am by
+no means sure.</p>
+
+<p>At 10 o'clock W. had his farewell audience with the
+Emperor, but it wasn't particularly interesting&mdash;an insignificant
+conversation&mdash;might have been any emperor,
+or any ambassador, of any country.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast we went out again "en bande" with a
+new polyglot youth this time&mdash;a young Frenchman whom
+Lhermite had discovered. He took us to all sorts of
+places, small shops and bazaars, where we had never
+been. We bought a good many things, Circassian belts
+and buckles of wrought silver, some studded with turquoises,
+some enamelled&mdash;pretty work&mdash;Russian chains
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_100" title="pg 100"> </a>
+and crosses, small Madonnas in curious brass frames&mdash;always
+the black face on a gold ground, and
+several of those beautiful, light Orenburg shawls, so fine
+that they pass through a ring (we all tried) and yet fairly
+large and warm when one shakes them out to the full
+size. It was rather amusing going in and out of all the
+funny little shops. We left the carriage in one of the
+big streets and walked about.</p>
+
+<p>Now we have come home. I have had my tea alone
+to-day. I must dress, as we dine early, 7 o'clock, on
+account of our reception afterwards. I went with Lhermite
+to see the flowers, fruit, bonbons, petits fours, etc.,
+which arrived this morning from Paris. It is extraordinary
+how fresh they all look. There are dozens of
+boxes in the dining-room and office, and the men are
+putting the flowers all about the rooms, Lhermite superintending
+the whole thing. He is an enormous help&mdash;I
+don't know what we should have done without him.</p>
+
+<p>I am going to wear my white and silver brocade to-night,
+the one I wore at the Palace gala dinner&mdash;my last
+<em>full dress</em> in Moscow. I am rather shaken by my outing
+this afternoon&mdash;the going in some of those crooked little
+old streets was something awful. The holes in the so-called
+pavement were appalling, and the paving-stones
+tapered off generally to a sharp point. I think nothing
+but a Russian carriage, driven by a Russian coachman
+could have got along. I must say it is a straggling,
+queer-looking town once you get out of the Kremlin
+and the main streets. The houses are very far apart,
+generally white and low, with large gardens, like a big
+overgrown village.</p>
+
+<p class="tb">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Well, Dear, our reception is over. It is ended early,
+as everything does here&mdash;and as I am wide awake I will
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_101" title="pg 101"> </a>
+write at once. People began to come about 9.30, and
+at 11.30 everyone had gone. The rooms looked well,
+quantities of lights and flowers, everyone noticed the
+flowers (there are so few here), which were heaped up
+everywhere on consoles, mantelpieces, wherever one
+could put them. We had a great many people&mdash;all our
+colleagues in full force, but not so many Russians as we
+expected. A good many were de service at the Palace,
+where there was a function of some kind for Russians only
+(the provinces), and I am sure many never received their
+invitations, as it is impossible to find out where anyone
+lives. I had a talk with General Richter and one or two
+others, and then some of the younger members of the
+party suggested dancing&mdash;of course we had no music, as
+dancing had not been contemplated, but various amateurs
+offered their services, and they had about half an hour
+of waltzes. At the end they danced a little the Russian
+mazurka, which I was very curious to see. It is quite
+different from our cotillon or the Sir Roger de Coverley.
+There are all sorts of steps and figures. The gentleman
+takes his partner by the hand, holding it rather high (as
+in the polonaise). They hold themselves very straight,
+heads well back, as in a minuet, and do various figures.
+The women have a quick, sliding step when they change
+partners, which is very effective. I should think none
+but Russians would dance it well&mdash;one must be born
+to it.</p>
+
+<p>Prince Orloff stayed on a little after everyone had
+gone, and we talked over all the f&ecirc;tes, and principally
+our own performances. He says he has heard plenty of
+talk and criticisms of everything, and is much pleased
+with the success of our Mission. I hope the people at
+home will be satisfied.</p>
+
+<p>We had a dinner for all the French newspaper correspondents
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_102" title="pg 102"> </a>
+the other day&mdash;and they expressed themselves
+as quite gratified. They told us that one of the correspondents
+(I forget which paper) had accepted W.'s
+invitation, but the very day of the dinner there had been
+such a violent attack on W. in his paper that he didn't
+like to come, and sent an excuse. They say the
+Times' account is the best&mdash;the Figaro also very good
+(Wolff).</p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, June 9, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>The court is most amusing this morning&mdash;all the
+gentlemen are trying their horses, superintending the
+saddling, etc., as most of them follow the Emperor to-day
+at the revue. The little Russian horses look very lively
+and never stand still an instant. W. and I go together
+in the d'Orsay, Corcelle preceding us in another carriage.
+Benckendorff rides with all the others. G&eacute;n&eacute;ral
+Pitti&eacute; is rather bored, he hates riding, particularly on a
+horse he doesn't know, so he and Fayet will only mount
+at the Champ de Mars. They say the Emperor's suite
+will be enormous&mdash;over 100. I wore my &eacute;cru batiste
+with the heavy white embroidery and the &eacute;cru bonnet
+with the wreath of pink and red roses. It is almost
+white. (I wonder how I shall ever wear out all these
+garments.)</p>
+
+<p>The day is beautiful. We started about 10, as we were
+invited for 11 to the Tribune Imp&eacute;riale. The road out
+was a sight&mdash;the middle alley had been kept for the
+swells and Court, and there were quantities of Imperial
+and Ambassadors' carriages, aides-de-camp, etc., dashing
+about. I didn't see any handsome <em>private</em> equipages.
+They told me the reason was that the swells were attached
+to the Court and went about always in Court
+carriages. Our gentlemen passed us riding&mdash;they had
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_103" title="pg 103"> </a>
+rendezvous in the court-yard of the Palace Petrofski,
+where the Emperor mounted. We went on to the Tribune.
+The cort&eacute;ge started fairly punctually. First
+came the Empress in a victoria with four white horses.
+The Arch Duchess Charles Louis was seated next to her,
+and on the box the Duchesse d'Edimbourg and the Grand
+Duchess Wladimir, I think&mdash;at any rate another Princess.
+There were 2 postilions, 2 mounted grooms, and
+a piqueur. Then came the Emperor riding on the right
+of the Empress's carriage, always on his little grey Cossack
+horse, the Grand Duke H&eacute;ritier and the Duke of
+Edinburgh directly behind him, and then a long, glittering
+suite of foreign Princes and officers. The Grand Duke
+Wladimir commands the Gardes, and was on the field to
+receive his brother. It is the first time I have seen the
+Emperor without the Grand Duke Wladimir close behind
+him. It was striking to see the stern, watchful face
+always there. The Empress drove up and down the
+lines, the Emperor riding alongside. It was difficult to
+distinguish any uniforms, as they were rather far off, and
+there were clouds of dust. As soon as the Empress had
+passed her revue she came up to the Tribune and took up
+her position directly in front, <em>standing</em> almost all the time.
+The Emperor and his staff remained directly under the
+Tribune to see the d&eacute;fil&eacute;. That of course was long&mdash;but
+we had breakfast, also a sort of go&ucirc;ter always going on,
+and servants appearing at intervals carrying trays with
+tea, chocolate, orangeade, etc. All the Grand Duchesses
+(not the Empress) moved about and talked to us. The
+Duchesse d'Oldenburg sat down next me for some time
+and told me about some of the regiments (Crimean
+fame), named some of the generals, etc.</p>
+
+<p>I had tea with the Duchess of Edinburgh. She is easy,
+clever, and was much interested in all that was going on,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_104" title="pg 104"> </a>
+told me I must come to the front for the cavalry and Cossack
+charge, and that it would be soon. I followed her
+when she made the move&mdash;the infantry were just finishing&mdash;and
+in the distance one saw a movement and a flash
+of lances in the sun, which showed that the Cossacks were
+getting ready. They passed like a whirlwind&mdash;so fast,
+and in such clouds of dust that one saw nothing but the
+glint of the lances, neither colour of uniforms, horses,
+flags. All the troops, infantry as well as cavalry, saluted
+the Emperor as they passed&mdash;a sort of dull sound, more
+like a groan than a cheer&mdash;nothing like a ringing English
+hurrah.</p>
+
+<p>That was the end, so I went to the Princess Kotchoubey,
+Grande Ma&icirc;tresse, to ask her if I should go and
+take leave of the Empress, as she and the Emperor leave
+Moscow to-morrow. She said the Empress wished us
+all, Ambassadrices and femmes de chefs-de-Mission, to
+stand near the door, and she would say good-bye to us
+on her way out, so we moved down, and after waiting
+a little she came. She made her circle very prettily,
+shook hands with all, and talked a little, but she was evidently
+tired and anxious to get away. She was dressed
+in a curious dress, a sort of yellow cloth of gold, and gold
+bonnet with red flowers&mdash;always her splendid pearl necklace.</p>
+
+<p>We had to wait some little time before our carriages
+could get up, so I went back to the front of the Tribune
+to see the troops disperse. It was a pretty sight
+as they all filed off in long columns, music playing and
+flags flying, and always little groups of Cossacks tearing
+all over the place. I had another cup of tea with a very
+good little cake while I was waiting. Lady Thornton
+was tired and wanted one, so we sat there quite quietly
+and had our tea. It was a lovely, bright, warm day, and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_105" title="pg 105"> </a>
+we liked that better than waiting at the door in the
+crowd until our carriages came.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus120.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Grand Duc Wladimir" id="illus120" title="Grand Duc Wladimir"> </a>
+<p class="center small">Grand Duc Wladimir<br >
+From a photograph by Bergamasco St Petersburg</p></div>
+
+
+<p>We got back to the Embassy for breakfast, but were
+not very hungry. We breakfasted alone with Corcelle,
+as the other gentlemen breakfasted with all the Emperor's
+suite at the Petrofski Palace. I am writing this
+by fits and starts, as you will perceive. I began at 9 this
+morning, and am finishing now at 10.30, after a pleasant
+dinner at the Jaur&egrave;s&mdash;merely our two Embassies,
+everyone telling his experiences, amusing enough. The
+Jaur&egrave;s are quite ready to go. He wants to go to
+sea again, and will command the Mediterranean Squadron,
+and she is tired of Russia. I have no idea who will
+succeed them, but as long as it isn't W. I don't much
+care.</p>
+
+<p>Well, our f&ecirc;tes are over. We shall have two days to
+see Moscow quietly, and then break up. It has certainly
+been most interesting, and now that it is over, and
+we all have still our heads on our shoulders, I am very
+glad we came, for I shall never see such a sight again.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, June 10th.</p>
+
+<p>Richard and I made an ineffectual attempt to go to the
+English church this morning, but after driving half over
+Moscow and going to various wrong addresses, which
+had been given to us, we gave it up, and came home
+rather mortified and well jibed at by the whole Embassy.
+Just as we were going to breakfast Prince Ourousoff, one
+of the Chamberlains, appeared to say that two special
+trains would start for Petersburg on Monday and Wednesday
+to take back the Corps Diplomatique, and asked
+us which day would suit us best. W. preferred Wednesday.
+W. must have a day or two to send off horses,
+carriages, huissiers, cooks, etc., and also to see a little of
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_106" title="pg 106"> </a>
+Moscow, for he has scarcely seen anything. All his days
+were so taken up with the visits&mdash;those he made and
+those he received&mdash;and his despatches, that he did little
+but his morning ride on his funny little bay horse (which
+he liked very much and which carried him well).</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon we have been sight-seeing with Benckendorff,
+first to the Kremlin to see the private apartments
+of the Emperor and Empress. The Court, with
+all the foreign Princes and their suites, left last night
+after the revue, and already one sees the difference in the
+streets. The crowd of peasants has disappeared, there are
+fewer carriages, flags and draperies are being removed
+from all the buildings, and the circulation is so easy that
+one can scarcely realize that only yesterday that brilliant
+throng was making its way with difficulty through the
+long, straight all&eacute;e to the Champ de Mars. It is very
+warm, the sun blazing, and the white dust very trying;
+however we went about a good deal. We saw the Romanoff
+house, an ordinary boyar house, with low, dark
+rooms and a funny little winding staircase, but it had
+evidently been quite done up (in the style of the epoch
+of course), and I didn't find it very interesting.</p>
+
+<p>We went into numerous churches and towers, and
+wound up with a visit to the Monast&egrave;re Siminoff, from
+where there is a splendid view over the city. We saw
+the Director, who came out and showed us everything.
+We dined quietly at home with the Embassy only. After
+dinner, when smoking in the serre, the soldiers began
+talking, fighting their battles over again&mdash;all that horrible
+time between the Commune and Versailles, where
+one of our Embassy, Fayet, was wounded. It is always
+interesting when they talk seriously like that, but, Heavens,
+how they shot people at the end, it makes one shiver.</p>
+
+<p>To-morrow will be a busy day, as all the packing must
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_107" title="pg 107"> </a>
+be done. One of the French couturi&egrave;res here will send a
+packer, and will come herself to help the maids. Lhermite,
+with his cooks, footmen, etc., start Wednesday
+morning early. They must cook us our last dinner Tuesday
+night. Hubert, too, with carriages, horses, etc.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France &agrave; Moscow</span>,<br >
+<span class="smcap">Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska</span>,<br >
+Monday, June 11th, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>Well, Dear, this is my last letter from Moscow&mdash;you
+will certainly never again have any letter from Maison
+Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, and I suppose I shall never
+see Moscow again. The court is again most lively (it
+is certainly an unfailing interest to me, and I am always
+looking out of the window). Someone has come from
+one of the Grand Dukes, Michel, I think, to see the big
+horses. Hawes was very anxious we should sell them in
+Russia, if we could get a fair price. They have always
+excited much attention and admiration, but they are very
+big, and here the Russians are accustomed to a much
+smaller race, prefer three small ones to one larger pair.
+I don't know either if they could stand the climate.
+There seems to be a perfect army of helpers packing carriages,
+saddles, harness, and all the stable equipment.
+Mdme. Gille (my couturi&egrave;re) has arrived. She has made
+me a very nice little blue foulard shirt, I couldn't stand
+my cloth body these hot days, and yet must travel in
+that dress, as I have no other. When I think of the
+furs that have always remained at the bottom of one of
+the trunks&mdash;so many people told me that it would be
+impossible to be in Russia in May and June without
+furs. It is fair to say that Mdme. Jaur&egrave;s told me it was
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_108" title="pg 108"> </a>
+freezing still the morning they left Petersburg&mdash;which
+seems incredible now. I send back all my big trunks
+and swell garments with the Huberts. I shall keep out
+only one or two dinner dresses for Petersburg. Poor
+Mdme. Hubert is rather sad at leaving me, and going
+back to France without having seen Petersburg, but of
+course I don't want two maids any longer.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon I went out with Richard for some last
+shopping. The city is completely changed&mdash;not a
+creature nor a carriage, nor servants in livery, nothing
+but a deserted city. We met the Austrian Ambassador
+walking about in a blue flannel vest and a pot hat. The
+courts of the Kremlin were m&eacute;connaissables, not a soul,
+hardly a soldier&mdash;one or two small detachments of Cossacks
+at the gates. It is an extraordinary change in such
+a short time. It has become a sleepy little provincial
+town.</p>
+
+<p>We had two or three gentlemen to dinner, M. d'Orval,
+ancien officier de Chasseurs, just back from a tour in
+the Caucasus with the Duc de Chartres, and a Russian
+merchant for whom Richard had letters&mdash;the first person
+I have seen in Russia who was neither noble nor
+peasant. Both men were interesting enough. The Russian
+talked prudently, but fairly openly&mdash;said there must
+be a great change&mdash;things couldn't go on as they did
+now, there was a young generation to be reckoned with,
+active, educated, intelligent, and they must have their
+say&mdash;that when the uprising came there would be a
+Revolution such as Europe had never seen. I wonder.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner we went to the Hermitage, the great public
+gardens. They are pretty enough, large, with trees
+and bosquets, and every variety of amusement&mdash;theatres,
+concerts, dancing, and even conjurors. Some shepherds
+from the Wladimir Government with long yellow
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_109" title="pg 109"> </a>
+cloaks and high hats were playing a sort of reed pipe,
+curious enough. At last I heard some of the Russian
+national songs&mdash;a quartette was singing them in one
+of the theatres. They are very pretty, monotonous, with
+an undercurrent of sadness. They sang very true, and
+the voices are rich, not at all the thin, high northern
+voice that one expected to hear. We stayed there so
+long, looking at the various things, that we didn't get
+home until 12.30&mdash;much the latest entertainment I have
+been to in Moscow, except the Palace ball, where the
+<ins title="Transcriber's note: original text read 'suppper'">supper</ins> of course prolonged the festivities.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Monday, June 11th.</p>
+
+<p>It was so warm to-day and I had so much to do with
+the trunks&mdash;separating the things&mdash;that I only went out
+after tea, and of course did a little more shopping. I
+wanted some photographs and also some music&mdash;however
+Benckendorff said he would see about that for me.
+We dined quite alone with the Embassy&mdash;a good dinner
+perfectly served, tho' Lhermite leaves to-morrow.
+He came up to get his last instructions from W. while
+we were having tea. His experiences are most amusing&mdash;he
+says he has learnt a great deal of the language and
+the Russian ways of doing business, and if ever he comes
+back he will know how to take care of himself. He became
+quite excited at remembering various occasions
+when he had been "roul&eacute;."</p>
+
+<p>After dinner W. and I went for a last drive, to look
+at the Kremlin by moonlight&mdash;and beautiful it was&mdash;the
+sky was so blue one could almost see it like the Italian
+summer sky, and all the great white buildings and towers
+stood out gloriously. The great church of St. Basile
+was extraordinary. The colours, pink, green, red, yellow,
+all so vivid that even at night one quite made them out.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_110" title="pg 110"> </a>
+It is a mass of towers, domes, and cupolas, every one
+different in shape, work, and colour. It was planned and
+executed by an Italian architect, and the story is that the
+Czar (of the epoch) was so pleased, and at the same
+time so afraid he might make another like it, that he had
+his eyes put out. It was curiously dark and quiet inside&mdash;scarcely
+any light; here and there a glimmer high
+up in one of the Palace rooms. We met two or three
+carriages with colleagues driving about in the moonlight
+like ourselves. The river, too, looked beautiful from the
+terrace&mdash;a broad silver band with moonlight full upon it.
+I took a last look at the black
+<ins title="Transcriber's note: original text read 'Madonnna'">Madonna</ins> in the gateway,
+and the little guard of Cossacks. I shall often think
+of that last night in the Kremlin when I have returned
+to civilization and modern life.</p>
+
+<p>I will send this off by to-morrow's courier. My next
+letter will be from Petersburg. My little boudoir still
+looks very nice. The little Russian maid is rather sad,
+and has been in and out 20 times, lighting candles, opening
+and shutting doors and windows, and keeping up a
+stream of conversation which I can't possibly understand,
+though the maids say they do. W. is deep in last despatches,
+and has departed to his own quarters. I
+haven't learnt any Russian, which I think is rather weak
+on my part. I thought I would have some lessons at
+first, but I don't think I could have learnt much in two
+weeks. Lagren&eacute; was discouraging&mdash;says he knows very
+little, and his mother is a Russian.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_111" title="pg 111"> </a></p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Hotel Demouth, Petersburg</span>,<br >
+Jeudi, 14 Juin, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived here last night at 12.30. The journey was
+comfortable enough, but long&mdash;the Russian trains do
+not go a terrifying pace. We left Moscow at 9.30, and
+the Maison Klein a little before 9. The d&eacute;part was
+quite imposing&mdash;all the personnel drawn up at the foot
+of the stairs, Lhermite and the three coachmen outside
+at the door, and a regiment of understrappers of all
+kinds. The little Russian maid was weeping and kissing
+my skirts. The faithful Benckendorff accompanied us to
+the station and saw us safely deposited in our wagon-salon&mdash;each
+Ambassador had one and a smaller one for
+the suite. Two Chamberlains, not attired in velvet and
+gold lace this time,&mdash;I felt rather aggrieved at having
+ordinary mortals in plain clothes to look after us&mdash;were
+waiting at the station to see that everything was well
+done, and they went with us to Petersburg. There was
+a Mongole at the door of our wagon who appeared at
+intervals with tea, oranges, and much information of all
+kinds (in Russian). We had all our meals en route&mdash;breakfast
+at 11, dinner at 4.30, a nondescript sort of
+meal, half go&ucirc;ter, half supper, with cold fish, fowl, mayonnaise,
+etc., at 8&mdash;and a very pretty little tea at 10.30.
+We all partook of every meal&mdash;how we managed to eat chicken and
+<ins title="Transcriber's note: original text read 'mayonnaaise'">mayonnaise</ins> at 8, having dined at 4.30,
+seems a mystery, but we did.</p>
+
+<p>It was very hot at starting&mdash;the sun pouring down on
+the plains that are around Moscow&mdash;not an atom of
+shade, but there was a sharp shower about 2 which cooled
+the air. They tell us Petersburg too is very hot. The
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_112" title="pg 112"> </a>
+day passed quickly enough. Many of our colleagues
+came and paid us visits. The Nuncio sat a long time.
+He is most interesting, with that delightful, simple, easy
+Italian manner. He asked us a great deal about the religious
+ceremony the day of the Coronation. He had
+only arrived after that. He is very clever and sympathetic,
+ready to talk about anything, and so moderate
+in his views. I think he would have a great success in
+Paris, where people love to discuss and analyze everything.</p>
+
+<p>Our Spanish colleague also came and sat with us. It
+seems he wanted W. to come to his carriage and drink
+champagne and play cards (very high play too), but it
+was conveyed to him that these were not exactly M.
+Waddington's tastes. Rumour says he was naively surprised,
+and said, "Comment, il ne joue pas!&mdash;le pauvre
+homme!" They were certainly a very merry party&mdash;we
+heard roars of laughter every time the train stopped.
+If anyone was losing heavily he took it most cheerfully.</p>
+
+<p>Our last little tea at 10.30 was really very pretty&mdash;several
+round tables very well arranged with flowers, tea,
+orangeade, and other drinks&mdash;cakes, petits fours, etc.
+(but no more solid food). W. struck and wouldn't get
+out, but Richard and I and the rest of the men were quite
+ready to see what was going on. Do you remember
+how I always loved getting out at all the buffets at no
+matter what time of night, when we used to go down to
+Italy every year? I think the buffet at Bologna with
+its "fricandeau de veau" is one of my most interesting
+souvenirs of travel (not from an artistic point of view).</p>
+
+<p>The arrival at Petersburg was curious. It was quite
+light, and there were as many people at the station and
+in the streets as if it were 12 o'clock in the day. We read
+distinctly the names and numbers of the streets and the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_113" title="pg 113"> </a>
+signs of the shops, and yet it wasn't altogether daylight&mdash;more
+like a late summer afternoon. We found very
+comfortable rooms here&mdash;a large salon with large bedrooms
+on either side, and a room next to me for Adela&iuml;de.
+I was quite ready to go to bed&mdash;the heat and dust
+were trying, and yet it seemed funny to go to bed by
+daylight. They brought tea of course, but we really
+couldn't do any more, so I departed to my own room.
+There I quite lost the impression of daylight, as there
+were double, even triple curtains to all the windows.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we slept late and breakfasted at 12.30,
+then W., Richard, and I went off in a carriage to the
+Hermitage (the great Museum). W. sent in his card to
+the Director of the Museum and also to the head of the
+Cabinet des M&eacute;dailles, as he wants a week's work at the
+medals. It seems there is a splendid collection here.
+The gentlemen were very civil, and we made rendezvous
+for to-morrow, W. for the medals and Richard and I for
+the pictures. The Hermitage is an immense museum.
+We shall only be able to have an idea of what is in it.
+We walked through some of the rooms&mdash;Peter the
+Great's gallery, which is full of course of souvenirs&mdash;his
+clothes, arms, tools, furniture, horse stuffed, etc., and in
+another there were quantities of bibelots of all kinds, and
+presents given to Peter and Catherine II&mdash;a collection of
+snuff boxes, crystal flagons, and goblets (some with
+precious stones encrusted in the glass), jewelled belts and
+caps&mdash;most interesting.</p>
+
+<p>We had our first view of the Neva from the windows of
+one of the rooms. It rushes past like the sea, so broad
+and strong, with very fair waves, a splendid river. We
+stayed about an hour lounging through the rooms, and
+then went on for a general view of the city. It is very
+handsome, but has no particular cachet (except the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_114" title="pg 114"> </a>
+Neva) at this season of the year&mdash;one ought to see it in
+winter when the river is frozen and the real winter life begins.
+It looks so modern after Moscow. We went to
+the great cathedral of St. Isaac. It is very big and imposing
+as a mass, but the architecture not very striking&mdash;afterwards
+to the fortress and church of St. Peter and
+St. Paul, where all the Emperors are buried&mdash;to Peter
+the Great's house (a most ordinary little wooden building),
+drove a little along the quais, where the lovely fresh
+breeze from the river was most welcome and invigorating
+after the heat and dust of Moscow.</p>
+
+<p>There was a good deal of life on the river, boats of all
+kinds. We think of going by steamer to Stockholm,
+all along the coast of Finland. They tell us it is a beautiful
+journey, particularly at this time of year, with the
+long, clear evenings. I want to see the boat before we
+decide, as I have an idea that it wouldn't be very clean
+(they say the boats on the rivers Volga, etc., are something
+terrible). We wound up in the Perspective
+Nevsky&mdash;the great shopping street, but didn't get out
+of the carriage, merely drove through. The shops look
+handsome and the vitrines well arranged, just like Paris.
+There was very little animation in the streets and very
+few carriages. They tell us many people have already
+gone away for the summer.</p>
+
+<p>We dined quietly at the hotel, and just as we were
+finishing Admiral Jaur&egrave;s came in to suggest that we
+should dine at Peterhof to-morrow afternoon. He says
+it is a very nice excursion&mdash;a short hour on the boat, and
+we can get a fair dinner there. About 9.30 we started
+again in the carriage to drive to the Islands or "La
+Pointe"&mdash;the great rendezvous in summer of all Petersburg.
+It is a long hour's drive, crossing quantities of
+small islands all connected by bridges, and one finally
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_115" title="pg 115"> </a>
+arrives at the "Pointe," end of the drive, and entrance of
+the Gulf of Finland. There all the carriages draw up,
+the people get down and walk about, or sit on the
+benches at the water's edge&mdash;a regular salon&mdash;in summer
+one sees all the people who are still "en ville" there.
+The place in itself is not at all pretty. The water of the
+Gulf is grey, the banks low, no trees&mdash;but the air was
+delicious.</p>
+
+<p>We met almost all our Moscow colleagues&mdash;also
+Princess Lise Troubetzkoi, who was delighted to see W.
+and plunge into Paris politics. She wanted us to go
+back and have tea with her, but it was 11 o'clock and
+I was tired, having been going all day&mdash;evidently that is
+what people do, as several of our colleagues too asked
+us, and expressed great surprise at our wanting to go
+home so early.</p>
+
+<p>We didn't get back to the hotel until 12, and then
+loitered a little in the salon, as the windows were open,
+people walking and driving about the streets, and
+nothing to make us think it was midnight, or at least the
+midnight we are accustomed to. They brought us some
+tea, and a little before one, making many excuses, I retired,
+rather feeling as if I were going to bed with the
+chickens.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Friday, June 15th.</p>
+
+<p>We have been all the morning at the Hermitage, and
+I will write a little now after breakfast, before we start
+for Peterhof. We took ourselves off early in a droshky
+(Russian fiacre), the porter telling the coachman where
+to drive to; and telling us how much to give him. It
+was a lovely morning, not too warm, and we enjoyed
+our drive. W. was shown at once to the Cabinet des
+M&eacute;dailles, where the Conservateur was waiting for him,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_116" title="pg 116"> </a>
+and Richard and I were taken in hand by a young man
+attached to the Museum who knew his work well, and
+was remarkably intelligent, speaking French quite well.
+The pictures are beautiful&mdash;there are quantities of every
+possible school. The finest we thought the Van Dycks
+and the Rembrandts, though some of the Italian Madonnas
+were lovely too. I like the Italian Madonna face so
+much&mdash;it is so pure and young and passionless. Our
+guide was very talkative, and very anxious to know what
+we thought of the Moscow ceremonies. We stayed
+about two hours, seeing all sorts of things "en passant"
+besides the pictures. The whole Museum is crowded&mdash;I
+don't think they could get much more in.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, June 16th.</p>
+
+<p>Our excursion to Peterhof was delightful yesterday
+afternoon. We took the four o'clock boat, and had a
+nice sail down of an hour and a quarter. The Jaur&egrave;s
+came with us, also Pitti&eacute;, Fayet, and Calmon. Corcelle
+went back to Paris from Moscow&mdash;also Sesmaisons,
+so our Mission is decidedly diminished. We met several
+of our Moscow friends on the boat&mdash;General Richter,
+Comte Worontzoff, and some others. The Court is at
+Peterhof and they are all established there. They told
+us the Emperor and Empress were not very tired after
+the excitement and emotions of the Coronation&mdash;very
+happy that all had gone so smoothly, and now quite
+pleased to be quietly at Peterhof with their children.</p>
+
+<p>The Russians are very proud of Peterhof, call it a
+"petit Versailles," and "petit" it certainly is in comparison;
+but the park is pretty, well laid out, with terraces
+and gardens, and the water-works really very good
+indeed. A very good Circassian band was playing, and
+a good many people walking about. What was lovely
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_117" title="pg 117"> </a>
+and quite unlike Versailles were the glimpses of the sea
+one had on all sides. We got carriages and drove all
+about. We went into the big Palace, where the present
+Emperor never lives. He prefers a small place, half farm,
+half cottage, close to the sea, and lives there quite contentedly
+and quietly like an ordinary country gentleman.
+However we couldn't get anywhere near that villa&mdash;the
+gates and alleys were closed, and guards and soldiers
+everywhere.</p>
+
+<p>We dined very badly at a restaurant we had been told
+of on the sea, and took the 10 o'clock boat home. The
+return was enchanting&mdash;a beautiful starlight night, and
+fresh, soft breeze. I had a nice talk with Mdme. Jaur&egrave;s,
+who told me a good deal of Russian ways and life. I
+think she is glad to go back to France, and "au fond"
+there are very few French women who care to <em>live</em>
+abroad altogether. After three or four years they get
+homesick for their own country. She asked me if I was
+never homesick for America&mdash;but I told her I had been
+so long away, and my life had been such a full one that
+I sometimes asked myself was I the same little girl that
+used to run wild in the country at home with a donkey
+cart and a big Newfoundland dog. Those years seem so
+long ago the memory is getting duller. Sometimes I
+shut my eyes and see quite well the big white house with
+the piazzas, and the climbing roses, the cherry trees, and
+the white gate with the sharp turn, and the ditch where
+we upset so often in the sleighs&mdash;all the children tumbling
+out into the snow drift, and nobody minding.</p>
+
+<p>We got home at 11.30 and found letters, which we
+read quite easily at the window. It is a wonderful light&mdash;no
+one ever seems to think of going to bed.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we have been again at the Hermitage to
+finish the pictures. Decidedly the Rembrandts are the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_118" title="pg 118"> </a>
+gems of the collection. There was one old man in a sort
+of fur robe and cap, with a wrinkled yellow face, whose
+eyes seemed quite alive, and followed us all round the
+room. We left W. with his medals and a sort of clerk
+attached to the Cabinet des M&eacute;dailles. It seems they
+never leave anybody alone in the room with the medals.
+W. is delighted, he has found some rare coins he had
+never seen, and he means to have a good day's work,
+will not come back to breakfast with us.</p>
+
+<p>Our young man, Baron Leeven, is always with us, and
+meets us at the Winter Palace this afternoon to show us
+the rooms. Our Mission is dwindling; Fayet went
+off this morning, Pitti&eacute; and Calmon go Monday. Richard
+remains to make the journey with us to Stockholm
+by sea. We have just come in from a pleasant dinner at the
+<ins title="Transcriber's note: original text read 'Juar&egrave;s'">Jaur&egrave;s</ins>'. The Embassy is small, but very
+well arranged, and we had a very good, handsome dinner.
+All the personnel of the Embassy, Vannutelli and
+his two auditeurs, and the French Consul and his wife. Admiral
+<ins title="Transcriber's note: original text read 'Juar&egrave;s'">Jaur&egrave;s</ins> was very hospitable and en train&mdash;all
+sailors are, I wonder why? The officers of high rank
+must have so many lonely hours, and are such swells
+on their ships, where no one can associate much with
+them, that one would think it would make them rather
+silent and reserved from long habit&mdash;but it is quite the
+contrary. In all nations sailors are generally cultivated,
+and good talkers.</p>
+
+<p>We shall become quite intimate with Vannutelli. We
+met him at the Winter Palace this afternoon, and went
+all about together. I can't say I found it very interesting.
+The rooms are handsome&mdash;high, generally white,
+with quantities of pictures&mdash;the portraits, some very old
+ones, interesting&mdash;the large modern pictures of battles
+by sea and land less so. I like very much the pictures of
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_119" title="pg 119"> </a>
+Peter the Great. He has a keen, striking face, must have
+had splendid eyes, very intelligent, in some of the portraits
+almost inspired, <em>hard</em>, not cruel. They were very
+anxious to show us the rooms where the late Emperor
+died, but there had been some mistake, and the man who
+has charge of the room could not be found, nor the key
+either. I was very glad (not that I should have gone
+in), for they said it was a horrid sight&mdash;the camp-bed
+and even his clothes left as they were, thick with blood.
+He was carried there directly after the attentat, and died
+on the little camp-bed. What I liked best was the splendid
+view again of the Neva from the windows of the ballroom.
+It looked a beautiful blue sea, the waves dancing
+in the afternoon light, and all the white sails standing out
+well in the sun. The two young men who were with us
+were most amusing. They showed us all the pictures in
+detail <em>except</em> those concerning the Grande Arm&eacute;e and the
+disastrous retreat. We were hurried past them, "rien de
+tr&egrave;s int&eacute;ressant, Madame&mdash;pas la peine de s'arr&ecirc;ter&mdash;&mdash;."</p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, June 17th.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we went to the French Protestant
+Church&mdash;a large room with white walls, and benches.
+There were very few people, but they tell us it is fairly
+full in winter. There is a large French colony&mdash;shopkeepers,
+theatre people, etc., and a great many Protestants.
+The Pasteur preached a very fair, sensible sermon.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast we had some visitors&mdash;Sir Edward
+Thornton, who wants us to dine one night; and a nice
+man, a Russian (whose name I never knew), but who
+told us to come to this hotel in which he is interested,
+and who has offered to go shopping with us one day,
+and show us the best fur-shops. We went for a drive
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_120" title="pg 120"> </a>
+in the afternoon to the Park Catherine, where a sort of
+f&ecirc;te populaire was going on. There were a great many
+people, and a great many policemen (as there always are
+here), one would think they lived in perpetual fear of an
+&eacute;meute, and yet the people all looked so subdued and repressed&mdash;I
+haven't seen one fierce face. The quantity
+of moujiks in their red shirts made a good effect of
+colour, but the women are not attractive, nor pretty.
+All are wrapped up in shawls, with a handkerchief over
+their heads.</p>
+
+<p>We had a pleasant dinner at the Hunts' (United States
+Legation), all their people, including of course George
+Wurts, whom I was very pleased to see again&mdash;Admiral
+Baldwin and his two Aides-de-camp Rogers and Paul,
+and M. et Mdme. de Struve. They are just going to
+America&mdash;he is named Minister there. They have been
+in Japan, and didn't seem very keen about America. I
+should think they would like it better than Japan, but I
+believe he hoped for some post in Europe. She was
+very amusing, and from her account life in Japan must
+still be very primitive.</p>
+
+<p>We came away early&mdash;about 10.30&mdash;and have been
+poring over guide-books ever since, making out our
+journey, always at the window (11 o'clock at night, and
+with no lamps).</p>
+
+<p class="author">Tuesday, June 19th.</p>
+
+<p>We had a charming afternoon yesterday at Cronstadt
+on the Lancaster, Admiral Baldwin's flag-ship. He had
+invited all the Corps Diplomatique, and the few Russians
+who are still in Petersburg, Jomini, Struve, Benckendorff,
+etc. We started about 3.30 in the regular Russian
+steamer, and once under way the breeze was delicious.
+I wore my white batiste with Valenciennes, and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_121" title="pg 121"> </a>
+a big black hat (which wasn't very practical on the
+steamer, as the wind blew the feathers about considerably,
+but I thought it looked so nice with the white
+dress). The American ship looked beautiful as we drew
+near&mdash;an old-fashioned frigate, all dressed with flags.
+The getting on board was not very easy, as she lay far
+out, and we had to get into small boats from our
+steamer and go out to her. It didn't look very pleasant
+when they put the steps down and told us to jump.
+There were fair waves, and when they told us to jump
+the boat was apparently nowhere near, but of course
+swung under the steps on the top of the wave at the
+right moment. Lady Thornton got down all right, so
+did I; but one of our colleagues had a most trying time.
+She was stout and nervous, looked wretched when she
+was standing on the steps between two strong sailors
+who told her to jump. She did her best, poor thing, and
+several times we in the boat below saw a stout white leg
+suddenly descend, but it was immediately drawn back,
+and she never let go of her sailors. Her husband, man-like,
+was furious, which of course made her much more
+nervous; however, after several attempts she gave it up,
+and they lowered her in an arm-chair, which didn't look
+quite comfortable either when it was suspended in the
+air waiting for the boat to arrive.</p>
+
+<p>We danced about well in the little boat, for every time
+it came up, and she didn't come down, we had to go back
+and repeat the performance. The American Legation
+got off first and were received by a salute of 15 guns, and
+then we followed. The Admiral with all his officers received
+us at the top of the ladder, and the band played
+our national airs, and they gave the Ambassador's salute,
+17 guns, and a great noise it made just over our heads
+as we were mounting the ladder. Lady Thornton and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_122" title="pg 122"> </a>
+her husband were in front of me, and I heard the "God
+Save The Queen"&mdash;then came the "Marseillaise," and
+for a moment I forgot I was a Frenchwoman and looked
+to see whom the "Marseillaise" was for (W. hadn't come
+in the boat with me, waited for the second one), but I
+recovered myself in time to bow and smile my thanks.</p>
+
+<p>I was delighted to find myself on an American ship,
+I so rarely see American officers of any kind. The ship
+was in splendid condition, so beautifully clean. We had
+a very handsome dinner in the Admiral's cabin. He
+took me down to see the table before all the guests came,
+and very pretty it looked, quantities of flowers and some
+handsome silver. No one enjoyed the day more than
+Mgr. Vannutelli. He had a little doubt about coming,
+as he heard there was to be dancing, and consulted us
+about it. We told him the dancing would be mild, and
+he might never have a chance to see a big American
+ship again, and strongly advised him to come.</p>
+
+<p>While Lady Thornton and I were sitting together one
+of the young officers came up to her (she knew several
+of them, as they were some years in Washington) saying
+he heard one of the Ambassadresses was an American,
+did she know which one, and could she introduce him.
+"Certainly," she said, "it is Madame Waddington, wife
+of the French Ambassador, who is sitting next to me
+now," and immediately presented the young man, who
+said he had been looking at all the ladies to see which
+was the American, but hadn't placed me, he supposed
+because he heard me speaking French. We became
+great friends, and he took me all over the ship. We
+danced a little on deck&mdash;a quadrille d'honneur&mdash;I with
+my friend Schimmelpenninck, Lady Thornton with
+Jaur&egrave;s, Madame Jaur&egrave;s with Admiral Baldwin. Then we
+left the dancing to the young ones and sat quietly on
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_123" title="pg 123"> </a>
+deck till it was time to go. Just as we were starting the
+Admiral asked me if I would say a few words to the band&mdash;they
+were almost all Italians. I went over at once and
+talked to them, so did the Nuncio, which of course delighted
+them.</p>
+
+<p>We started back about 9 in a special Russian steamer.
+The sea was much calmer, and the getting off one boat
+and on another was not such a difficult operation even
+for poor Mdme. A&mdash;&mdash;. The sail back was about two
+hours&mdash;quite enchanting in that beautiful northern twilight,
+and we were all sorry when it came to an end.</p>
+
+<p>This morning it is very warm, and I am rather seedy,
+so I have stayed quietly at home. Richard and I breakfasted
+t&ecirc;te-&agrave;-t&ecirc;te, as W. was off at an early hour to his
+medals, and won't be back until dark. I wonder if the
+Russian officials will be as astonished at his capacity for
+a long spell of work as the Italians were. <em>They</em> struck
+after <em>two</em> days of such work, and then took it in turns.
+One day at Milan I went to get him at the end of the
+day, as we were going to drive somewhere in the country,
+so the Italian smiled all over, and almost winked, saying,
+"Ah, Madame est venue voir si Monsieur &eacute;tait vraiment
+aux M&eacute;dailles toute la journ&eacute;e." I suppose he felt that
+he wouldn't have stayed working all those hours, and
+also quite understood that I suspected W. of doing
+something else.</p>
+
+<p>We have had a nice visit from Benckendorff, who has
+told us all about the boat we want to take to go to
+Stockholm. He says they are Swedish boats, very clean,
+and very good food; also very few people at this time
+of the year.</p>
+
+<p>Now I must dress and go with Richard to pay some
+visits. Calmon will go and see you and give you all our
+news. He won't tell you what I will, that he had a great
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_124" title="pg 124"> </a>
+success in Moscow&mdash;his artillery uniform, the astrakhan
+tunique, was very becoming&mdash;all the ladies found him
+"tr&egrave;s beau gar&ccedil;on." I must add too that Richard also
+had a great success&mdash;evidently artillery uniform is becoming.
+It was rather amusing to see the face of one of
+the young ladies when I made some reference to Madame
+Richard Waddington. "M. Waddington married&mdash;I
+never should have dreamed of it"&mdash;and after a moment,
+"What is his wife like?" doubtfully. "Is she pretty?"
+"Well, yes, she is very pretty." Richard won't tell you
+that either when he comes back, but I shall tell Louise.</p>
+
+<p>How curious all the Moscow life will seem when I am
+settled again at Bourneville&mdash;walking in the park with
+the children, riding all over the country with W., and
+leading an absolutely quiet life. I hope I shall remember
+all I want to tell you.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">H&ocirc;tel Demoult, Petersburg</span>,<br >
+Wednesday, June 20th, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>Richard and I went visiting yesterday. We found the
+Thorntons, who gave us tea. Their Embassy is charming&mdash;a
+big house on the Quai Anglais. The drawing-rooms
+are large and high. All the windows look out
+on the Neva, and they say it is quite beautiful at night.
+Then we went back to the hotel, got W., who had had a
+fine morning with his medals&mdash;says the collection is magnificent,
+much larger than he had any idea of, and started
+off to the Quais to see our boat. We leave to-morrow
+evening between 6 and 7. It looked very nice and clean,
+and the Captain was quite overwhelmed with the distinguished
+passengers he was to have the honour of
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_125" title="pg 125"> </a>
+transporting. We have an enormous cabin (two thrown
+into one) big enough for a family. I interviewed the
+stewardess, a nice fresh-looking Norwegian woman.
+Conversation was rather difficult, as I spoke German
+and she Norwegian, and neither of us understood the
+other, but I am sure we shall get on very well. They
+tell us the voyage is enchanting, all in and out of small
+fiords, islands, and narrow rivers. We stop five or six
+hours each day to see the country, and never have any
+sea until we cross to Stockholm, when it is generally
+rough.</p>
+
+<p>We dined quietly at the hotel with Coutouly, our
+Consul, a very nice man, very intelligent. He too had
+interviewed the Captain, and told him to take every care
+of us. He says the trip is enchanting, and the two Finnish
+towns, Helsingfors and Abo, very well worth seeing.
+About 10 o'clock we drove off to the "Pointe" and had
+a pleasant hour with some of the colleagues. It is always
+cool there, and the drive out is interesting, so unlike
+anything else.</p>
+
+<p>Richard went off early this morning with Sermet and
+Moulin of the French Embassy to see the Falls of
+Smatra, which are said to be very fine. We pick him
+up at Helsingfors.</p>
+
+<p>I walked about a little with Adela&iuml;de&mdash;I never see
+anything the least like a femme du monde in the streets.
+I suppose the "soci&eacute;t&eacute;" are away for the summer, and
+the streets look rather as September streets do in Paris.</p>
+
+<p>W. and I dined at the Thorntons'&mdash;handsome and
+pleasant. Jaur&egrave;s was there, not his wife, she has already
+started for Paris, and the Ternaux Compans, a nice young
+m&eacute;nage (just married) attached to the Embassy. She
+was very well dressed, in white. There was also the
+Danish Minister (I forget his name). He is a friend of
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_126" title="pg 126"> </a>
+the Empress and tr&egrave;s bien vu &agrave; la cour. After dinner
+someone played on the piano, and he and Mary Thornton
+danced a little, showing us some of the figures of the
+mazurka. Lady Thornton says, like everyone else, that
+the society of Petersburg is very ferm&eacute;. They know
+everybody, but I fancy very few of the diplomatists make
+real friends with anyone. I was rather surprised, as the
+Russians one meets abroad are generally very easy and
+sociable. She also finds the climate very trying. She
+showed me all the rooms, which are charming. In all
+the bedrooms very thick curtains, as the light is most
+trying, and of course people who live there must have
+regular hours for sleep&mdash;for us birds of passage it is of
+no consequence, and going to bed seems the last thing
+one would think of doing in Petersburg.</p>
+
+<p>We came home about 11, and now W. is busy over
+his Paris letters, also putting his notes in order, as he
+has finished with the medals. He has had three or four
+days of real hard work, but says it rested him after all the
+Court festivities.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Jeudi, 21 Juin.</p>
+
+<p>We have been shopping all the morning,&mdash;W. and I
+and M. Lomatch (I have found his name). We bought,
+among other things, a sled for Francis&mdash;I haven't seen
+one since I left America&mdash;and a good deal of Russian
+lace, which they say is very solid, and embroidery. We
+came back to a late breakfast, and I am writing now at
+the last moment while they are carrying down the trunks.
+We are going at 4 to the steamer to leave our boxes
+and Adela&iuml;de, and install ourselves, and then go for tea
+to Coutouly, who has an apartment on the Quai, just opposite
+the wharf where the steamer starts from. I am
+quite sorry to go. We are very comfortable here, and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_127" title="pg 127"> </a>
+the streets are so amusing. I should like once to hear a
+little laughing and singing, as the various groups of
+work-people, soldiers, and peasants pass&mdash;but they are a
+curiously sad, subdued race.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Friday, June 22d.  "En mer."</p>
+
+<p>We are just approaching Helsingfors (twelve o'clock),
+where we go on shore for some hours, and I will write
+a little. I have a nice straw arm-chair on deck (the sail
+shades me), a table with books, papers, etc. We embarked
+at 6.30 yesterday. We went on the boat about
+4&mdash;saw the Captain, a very nice man, a Finn, who speaks
+English quite well, and who is much pleased to have us
+on his boat. He went down to the cabin with us, which
+is really a large, airy room, with two very fair beds, and
+a sort of recess which makes a dressing-room. It opens
+into the ladies' cabin, where he had also arranged the end
+near our cabin for us&mdash;two arm-chairs, a table, etc. Adela&iuml;de
+has a nice state-room just opposite&mdash;also Richard.
+There were not many people on board&mdash;and he said he
+hadn't many passengers, chiefly men.</p>
+
+<p>We left cloaks, books, etc., and walked across to the
+Coutoulys', who have a nice apartment directly on the
+river. It is so broad and swift one feels almost as if one
+was on the sea-shore. There is much passing all the
+time, and a good many little posts, as at Venice, where
+the boats are tied. They gave us tea, and about 6 we
+went back to the boat.</p>
+
+<p>Jaur&egrave;s was there with some of his young men, and
+Benckendorff, who came to say a last good-bye this time.
+We gave him rendezvous in Paris, as we should like very
+much to do something for him. He was untiring and
+devoted to us all the time we were at Moscow&mdash;never
+tired, always taking a great deal of trouble to see that
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_128" title="pg 128"> </a>
+we were well taken care of, and helping us in every way.
+I found three or four handsome bouquets in the cabin&mdash;one
+from him, and one from M. Lomatch, the proprietor
+of our hotel. He has written to the hotel at Stockholm
+for rooms for us. We arrive Sunday morning&mdash;have
+three nights at sea. Adela&iuml;de is quite excited at the
+prospect of a real voyage "en mer."</p>
+
+<p>We had a very good supper about 8.30, just as we
+were passing Cronstadt. We have made a very nice
+arrangement for our meals. The idea of a table-d'h&ocirc;te
+with all the people who are on board (many more than
+I thought) was appalling, so we are to have all our
+meals half an hour before the others at a small table in
+the dining-room. It is a most satisfactory arrangement,
+and we had a nice quiet hour on deck while
+the other passengers were supping. It was a lovely
+evening&mdash;the sea absolutely calm, and so warm I hardly
+needed my cloak. We sat late on deck. They brought
+us a table with tea and Swedish punch, which seems to
+be the favourite drink here.</p>
+
+<p>The passengers all came up after their supper. They
+were quiet enough&mdash;all had tea, punch, and cigars, and
+a great many played cards. The men look like commis-voyageurs,
+or small shopkeepers&mdash;almost all, I should
+think, Swedes or Norwegians. There are three or four
+English women and girls, governesses, the Captain tells
+me, going to Stockholm and Christiania.</p>
+
+<p>We went down to our cabin about 12&mdash;always the
+same curious grey light. I slept perfectly well. It
+seemed to me there was a little roulis about 3 o'clock
+(I heard a clock strike somewhere), but it was only pleasant.
+I was up at 8 and had my tea and toast in the
+ladies' cabin close to a port-hole, and was rather sorry
+I hadn't had it on deck. I went up as soon as I had
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_129" title="pg 129"> </a>
+finished. We were passing through a series of little
+bays, all dotted over with islands, some fairly large, some
+merely a granite rock with a pine tree on it.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, June 23d. "En mer."</p>
+
+<p>I was interrupted yesterday by the Captain, who came
+to get us to stand on the passerelle with him and see the
+approach to Helsingfors. The bay has widened out into
+a sea, and the harbour seems important. There are lots
+of ships and steamers&mdash;also small boats going backwards
+and forwards between them and the quais. The men in
+the boats wear a red cap, something like the Neapolitan
+fishermen. The town stands out well&mdash;there are high
+cliffs rising straight out of the sea, and a great many
+steeples (not the green and pink cupolas of Moscow).</p>
+
+<p>We found Richard and our Consul waiting for us on
+the Quai, and we drove at once to the hotel, and breakfasted.
+The steamer remains until 12 o'clock to-night,
+so we have ample time to see the town. Just as we were
+finishing breakfast a gentleman appeared, a director of
+something (Postes et T&eacute;l&eacute;graphes, I think) who came
+to do the honours in the absence of the Governor. He
+had an open carriage with a pair of nice little Russian
+horses, and drove us all over the town. Helsingfors is
+the capital of Finland, and I believe flourishing enough.
+The town is small and rambling&mdash;entirely surrounded
+by water, and quantities of little islands connected by
+bridges. I think we must have crossed about 20. Some
+of the villas are large with nice gardens. The Director
+showed us his, which looked pretty and comfortable.
+The streets are narrow&mdash;not much movement. The
+names of the streets are written in three languages&mdash;Russian,
+Swedish, Finnish. All the functionaries are
+Russian, the small merchants and shopkeepers Swedish,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_130" title="pg 130"> </a>
+and the peasants and sailors Finns. They (Finns) have
+a very marked type of their own, not particularly Russian,
+nothing of the Tartar, only very Northern.</p>
+
+<p>We dined at the famous Caf&eacute; du Parc. W. invited
+the Director and the Consul to dine with us, and we had
+a pleasant little dinner, fairly good. There was a good
+orchestra, who had evidently been told who we were, for
+as soon as we arrived they played the "Marseillaise" very
+well. It caused quite a sensation among the people who
+were dining, as they evidently hadn't noticed particularly
+the quiet party which came in&mdash;all of us of course in
+travelling dresses. The chef d'orchestre asked our Director
+if we would like to hear some national airs&mdash;which
+they played very well, and then I asked for the
+Polonaise from Glinka's "La Vie pour le Czar," which
+they always played in Moscow whenever the Imperial
+cort&eacute;ge arrived.</p>
+
+<p>At 11 o'clock the Consul's steam launch came (the
+caf&eacute; is on the water), and he took us all about the inner
+harbour, most curious and interesting, and then outside.
+It was a beautiful moonlight night, and we went sometimes
+so close up to one of the islands that we could have
+spoken to anyone on the shore if there had been anybody
+to speak to&mdash;sometimes we were in what seemed a
+great lake, with no perceptible outlet. We cruised about
+until midnight, then went back to the hotel, and walked
+down to the steamer. The light had changed&mdash;was
+rather like dawn, but perfectly light. There were people
+and carriages, children, badauds, loitering about the
+wharf. They told us a steamer had started two or three
+hours earlier with tourists on board to see the midnight
+sun.</p>
+
+<p>We stayed on deck about half an hour to see the d&eacute;part.
+The light was getting much stronger&mdash;Richard
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_131" title="pg 131"> </a>
+read a letter quite easily, and at 1 o'clock, when I went
+down to the cabin, the sun was shining bright. I am
+writing now on deck after breakfast. Young Moltke, a
+Dane, came on board last night, and asked if he might
+have his meals with us. He too had been at the Coronation,
+and found the standing all those hours very tiring.
+The day is beautiful&mdash;the sea perfectly calm, and the
+long, lazy hours on deck most resting.</p>
+
+<p>This morning I was interviewed by two English girls&mdash;both
+young and rather pretty, the fair English type.
+One was a governess going back to her place, somewhere
+near Stockholm, in the country; the other was just going
+out on a venture, had no engagement, knew no language
+but her own, and had merely made the acquaintance of
+the other girl on the boat. I suggested it was rather a
+risk coming so far without anything definite; but she said
+she was sure she would find something, and she had a
+little money. I asked her how old she was&mdash;17. "How
+could your parents let you start off like that?" "Oh,
+there are so many of us, and I am strong." They then
+asked me if I would tell them something about the
+Coronation&mdash;so I talked to them a few minutes. They
+asked me if I saw many Nihilists&mdash;as if they were a
+marked class&mdash;and did the Empress look nervous.</p>
+
+<p>I have also managed to talk a little to the stewardess,
+or rather to understand her&mdash;as I have made out that she
+is married, and has young children, and no one apparently
+to leave them with while she is cruising about.</p>
+
+<p>I wish I could sketch, there are so many charming little
+bits of scenery that I would like to bring home with
+me. We are getting near Abo, and I must stop. To-night
+is to be our rough night in the Baltic. At the
+present moment the sea is like glass, but the Captain says
+there is always movement crossing over to Stockholm.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_132" title="pg 132"> </a>
+I should like to go on forever in the boat. The long,
+long hours on the deck with this soft grey sea and sky,
+with nobody to talk to, and no dressing of any kind are
+enchanting. I have got a book, Tolstoy's "Guerre et
+Paix," but I don't seem to get on much&mdash;I am always
+looking at something.</p>
+
+<p class="author">8 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>We have just got back after a lovely afternoon at Abo
+(the old capital of Finland). The approach was very
+picturesque as we went some distance up a narrow river
+to the town, which is not directly on the sea. Our Vice-Consul
+was waiting on the quai with a carriage, and we
+drove all over the place. It is now a dead city&mdash;all the
+life and interest of Finland is absorbed by Helsingfors,
+but it is interesting. We saw the Cathedral, the public
+gardens, and then drove some distance into the country
+to see the oldest church in Finland&mdash;a little old, grey
+building that looks any age. The country is very pretty,
+always charming views of the sea, and a few villas dotted
+about, but nothing like as many as at Helsingfors. It
+seems people come sometimes in summer for sea air,
+bathing, and fishing, and occasionally English yachts stop
+a day or two.</p>
+
+<p>We got back about eight, and I am writing now before
+supper. We found the boat all dressed with greens, as it
+is the St. Jean, and they tell us we shall see lights, bonfires,
+and torches on all the little islands, as they always
+celebrate the St. Jean here with greens and lights. My
+next letter will be from Stockholm.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_133" title="pg 133"> </a></p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Stockholm</span>,<br >
+Sunday, June 24th, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>Well, Dear, we arrived at 12 o'clock this morning, and
+I was quite sorry to leave the boat and my nice big cabin,
+and the good-natured stewardess. Last night was enchanting.
+We sat on deck until 12.30. W. treated us
+all to Swedish punch and cakes. It was decidedly cooler&mdash;for
+the first time I had on the warm, long, blue cloth
+coat I started in from Paris, and there was rather more
+motion. How it would amuse you&mdash;I wish you were
+here. The deck looks quite picturesque&mdash;lots of little
+round tables with groups of three or four people, all
+drinking something, and most of them playing cards.
+Between 11 and 12 there is a sort of night, or darkness,
+so they brought up some lamps, which looked weird, and
+gave a faint, flickering light. We run sometimes so
+close to the islands, between several, in a narrow channel,
+that one would think it was impossible to pass, but evidently
+it is deep sea everywhere, and we go steadily on
+without slackening. I am delighted we decided to come
+by sea. It is again a most novel experience, and such
+a contrast to our Moscow stay&mdash;all gold and glitter, and
+colour and courtiers.</p>
+
+<p>We were just getting out of the little channels and
+islands and making for the open sea when I went downstairs.
+The captain came and sat with us a little while,
+and told us where we were. Some of the lights on the
+small islands looked as if they were rising straight out
+of the sea. The water was grey, and the rock grey&mdash;one
+only saw the light.</p>
+
+<p>We didn't meet many ships&mdash;a few sailing boats as we
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_134" title="pg 134"> </a>
+left Abo&mdash;but no steamers or big ships. We were up
+fairly early, as they told us the entrance to Stockholm
+was so beautiful. Coming by water it rises straight out
+of the sea like Venice. There were quantities of islands,
+but much greener than those of the Finnish coast, and
+the cliffs higher. Villas everywhere, close down to the
+water's edge, and running up the hills. Little pleasure
+boats and yachts skimming all over the harbour. As it
+was f&ecirc;te St. Jean all the peasants and country people
+were out in flat-bottomed boats, crowded with women
+and children down to the water's edge&mdash;the boats quite
+covered with green boughs and leaves, the women in
+costume&mdash;a white skirt, coloured bodice embroidered in
+gold or silver&mdash;silver charms and big pins in their hair.
+It really was fairy-like for quite two hours before we
+arrived.</p>
+
+<p>We got in at twelve exactly, and breakfasted on
+board. The river is so deep that big ships run straight
+up into the town. The American frigate, Lancaster,
+which arrived last night, is anchored directly in front of
+the hotel, under our windows.</p>
+
+<p>We took a most cordial leave of our Captain, who
+expressed great gratification at having had us on board&mdash;hoped
+we were satisfied and would recommend his
+boat to any of our friends who wanted to make the same
+trip. W. and Richard were astounded at the cheapness
+of the journey. I think they made out it was about
+50 francs apiece&mdash;tout compris. We were three nights
+on board, and had all our meals except the day at
+Helsingfors.</p>
+
+<p>We found various people waiting for us at the quai&mdash;one
+of the secretaries of our Legation&mdash;the g&eacute;rant of
+the H&ocirc;tel de l'Europe&mdash;one or two members of the
+French colony here, and M. Mathias, a French engineer
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_135" title="pg 135"> </a>
+who lives here. We went across to the hotel in a ferry-boat
+and found charming rooms, with windows and balconies
+on the river. The proprietor informed us with
+much pride that the last distinguished foreigner that had
+occupied the apartment was Mdme. Sarah Bernhardt.</p>
+
+<p>We found quantities of letters, unpacked a little&mdash;I
+wasn't sorry to get out of my blue cloth into something
+lighter, as it is warm. They say it is going to rain, and it
+has been dull and grey all the morning. M. Paten&ocirc;tre,
+French Minister, has sent word that he will come and see
+us about 2.30. The King is here, and will receive W.
+The Queen and Princesses are away, so I have nothing
+to do. The Royal Palace is opposite&mdash;a big square
+building.</p>
+
+<p class="author">7 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>Paten&ocirc;tre and all his Legation appeared. They
+brought us some picture papers with the Coronation,
+proclamation (the Heralds dressed in cloth of gold, and
+preceded by trumpeters) and ball. They say the
+Graphic is the best, but they hadn't it, you might perhaps,
+June 10th. We went for a drive with M. Mathias,
+who will be our cicerone here, as he knows Stockholm
+well. We went to the Royal Park, which is handsome&mdash;fine
+old trees and all&eacute;es, and to the Observatory, from
+which generally there is a beautiful view of Stockholm
+and its surroundings&mdash;but it was grey and misty, raining
+even a little, so we didn't see much.</p>
+
+<p>We are to dine quietly here and go after dinner to a
+camp where soldiers and peasants play games and dance
+and sing, in honour of St. Jean.</p>
+
+<p>The river is still covered with little green boats darting
+about in every direction.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_136" title="pg 136"> </a></p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">H&ocirc;tel D'europe, Stockholm,</span><br >
+Monday, June 25th, 1883.</p>
+
+
+<p>My Dear, this is the most enchanting place. The sun
+is out this morning, and the river and green hills too
+lovely. The river is most animated, quantities of sail
+boats and ordinary little rowing boats flying about in all
+directions, and plenty of life on the quais. Our expedition
+last night was not very successful. M. Mathias
+came to dinner early, at 7 (almost everyone dines at 6),
+and we went off to the camp. It was a pretty drive all
+along the river, and would have been nice if it had been
+clear, but it was a cold, grey evening, and began to rain
+a little before we got home. We found plenty of people
+looking on&mdash;various carriages drawn up, and it is evidently
+a thing to do&mdash;on a fine night people get out
+and walk about in the crowd, but as it was misting a
+little and decidedly muddy, we merely looked on from
+the carriage. One of the military bands played very well,
+a sort of quickstep, and the people danced with a certain
+entrain, but there were no particular steps, nor
+national dances, nothing very different from what one
+would see in a French assembl&eacute;e when the people dance
+on the pelouse before the Mairie. When they were all
+dancing round a may-pole dressed with greens, it was
+pretty, with soldiers and the Dalecarlian women&mdash;there
+were policemen, but not many, and the people looked
+quite peaceable and happy, evidently enjoying themselves
+immensely. There were quite a number of children&mdash;little
+tots that looked as if they could just walk,
+joining in the ring. Some of the costumes were pretty.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_137" title="pg 137"> </a>
+The Dalecarlian women looked well&mdash;they wear a high
+black cap which is very effective on their fair hair, which
+is plaited in heavy braids, and goes around the head
+like a turban; a white bodice, bright coloured apron, and
+gold or silver charms and hair-pins. The language
+sounded hard&mdash;no more the soft Russian tongue&mdash;and,
+alas! I am afraid no more the long, beautiful Russian
+twilight. The sky is grey and the clouds low. They
+say we are going to have a spell of rain.</p>
+
+<p>Mathias says the language is not at all difficult to
+learn, and it is absolutely necessary to know it, particularly
+for anyone who is here in any sort of business
+capacity.</p>
+
+<p>We got home about 10 and went in to pay a visit to
+the Baldwins, who have the rooms next to us. They
+had intended going too to the camp, but the rain
+frightened them off. We told them they hadn't missed
+much. The Admiral is charming&mdash;has been everywhere,
+seen everything, and takes such a practical American view
+of everything. He was not at all impressed with all the
+magnificence of Moscow&mdash;"All show (not much of a
+one) and hollow. What is there underneath?" However,
+I said I thought the show was pretty good as far
+as it went, and certainly no other country in the world
+could offer such a sight; to which he replied, smilingly,
+that I had been so long away from America that I had
+forgotten what it was like. I stuck to my guns, and said
+that certainly not all the intelligence, energy, education,
+and money of America could produce such a pageant.
+What was so wonderful was the contrast. All the modern
+life and luxury grafted upon that old half-Eastern,
+half-barbaric world. I think I shall never again see
+anything like the dinner of the Emperor and Empress
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_138" title="pg 138"> </a>
+the day of the Coronation. It looked exactly like some
+old medi&aelig;val picture as they sat there in their robes and
+crowns in that old dark-vaulted room of the old palace.
+We had quite an animated discussion. I fancy he always
+takes the opposite side on principle.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we have been very energetic. Mathias
+came at 10 o'clock, and we started off sight-seeing. We
+walked across to the Palace, which is directly opposite,
+and were there about an hour. There is not much to
+see, the rooms are large and high, all very simply furnished.
+Those that give on the river are very gay with
+all the water life of the city passing under the windows.
+There is one large gallery "des glaces" rather like the
+famous one at Versailles, which they told us was beautiful
+when it was lighted. There are quantities of portraits
+everywhere, and these, of course, are interesting;
+also some fine china, large vases. We saw, of course,
+Bernadotte's room, left exactly as it was when he died
+there. It was a curious mixture of French and Swedish,
+several French papers and brochures lying about on the
+tables just as he had left them, quite yellow with age and
+the print fading, also note-books and "projets de loi" annot&eacute;s
+in his handwriting. They say he never knew a
+word of Swedish and yet was so popular. There was a
+fine portrait of him over the fireplace, a handsome man,
+with fine soldierly bearing.</p>
+
+<p>We found a nice open carriage waiting for us at the
+door of the Palace and drove off to Drottningholm, one
+of the Royal residences on Lake Malar. The drive was
+charming, through pretty green country, and as soon
+as we came near the Lake, villas (generally white) in
+every direction. We crossed various little arms of the
+lake before we arrived at the Ch&acirc;teau. It is an enormous
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_139" title="pg 139"> </a>
+pile, and stands very well in a large park. The
+Governor, a fine old soldier (who rather reminded me of
+Marshal MacMahon), was waiting for us with his son,
+and showed us everything. The rooms are large and
+bright and exceedingly simple. It seems the Royal
+Family are very fond of the place. There is so much
+room that they can have as many people staying as they
+like, and they all live on the water. We drove through
+the park, and saw the Governor's villa, not far from the
+Palace. As we had been going since 10 o'clock the idea
+of tea was not disagreeable, so we consulted our coachman
+(at least Mathias did, as we couldn't talk), and he
+told us there was a good little caf&eacute; in the park, at one
+end, far from the Ch&acirc;teau, where the public were allowed,
+so we stopped there and had a very good cup of
+tea. It was cool and green, and we rather liked sitting
+there with the lake before us in the drowsy quiet of a
+summer afternoon. However we had to get back to
+Stockholm, as W. had to make a visit to the Ministre
+des Affaires &Eacute;trang&egrave;res. He sent him word just as we
+were starting that the King would receive him to-morrow
+at one o'clock. He must also see if he can borrow
+anywhere a Swedish grand cordon. He sent all his decorations
+back to Paris with his uniform, quite forgetting
+that he might want some on his way home, and they tell
+him he must have his, that the King is very particular
+about such matters, and wouldn't be at all pleased if he
+presented himself without his order. Paten&ocirc;tre's is no
+good, as it isn't the same order.</p>
+
+<p>We left W. the carriage and walked home, stopping
+and looking at all the shop windows. I don't know that
+there is much to buy, but we are going on a real shopping
+expedition to-morrow morning. Mathias showed
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_140" title="pg 140"> </a>
+us some queer old streets and houses and a famous shop
+where there were all sorts of fishing outfits. He is very
+anxious that we should go on to Norway, see Christiania
+and some of the famous fiords. He says the country is
+much finer than any part of Sweden, and there is much
+more "couleur locale." It is just the season for it. I
+should like it extremely, but I am afraid W. won't. He
+wants to get home, and must stay three or four days at
+Copenhagen, where there is a fine collection of medals.</p>
+
+<p>Now I am sitting writing at the window, waiting until
+it is time to dress for dinner at the Legation. The river
+is a perpetual enjoyment, always something going on.
+A big boat has just put off from the American man-of-war.
+The men look a fine sturdy lot, and come up in
+great style with a good, long stroke. They attract much
+attention, for as soon as the boat left the ship a little
+crowd gathered and watched their progress.</p>
+
+<p>Here is W., who enjoyed his visit to the minister very
+much&mdash;found him easy and intelligent, and much interested
+in the Coronation. They will send him a plaque
+and a ribbon from the jewellers, so he will be quite correct
+to-morrow. Adela&iuml;de is much disturbed because I
+have neither fine dress nor jewels for the dinner to-night.
+It really is not of the slightest consequence, as
+I am the only lady (Paten&ocirc;tre is a bachelor), and we are
+going to the gardens afterwards. I shall wear Delannoy's
+blue and white striped silk, half long, and take my
+hat in my hand, as it must go on for our outing.</p>
+
+<p class="author">12 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>We have just come in from our dinner, which was
+pleasant and very good, merely the three, Mathias,
+Paten&ocirc;tre, and one of his secretaries, M. de Bondy. The
+house is large, nice, and looks very pretty, as the Minister
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_141" title="pg 141"> </a>
+has been both in China and Persia and has brought back
+some beautiful things, carpets, tentures, and curios of all
+kinds. He evidently didn't find Pekin a very pleasant
+or healthy residence, says the cold is something awful.
+He likes Stockholm, says the Swedes are pleasant, kindly
+people, lead simple lives, and do all they can to make it
+pleasant for the Corps Diplomatique. There are few
+large fortunes&mdash;very little life, and little private entertaining.
+The Court gives several balls and dinners every
+year.</p>
+
+<p>About 8.30 we went off to the gardens and restaurant
+Haselbach, where all the beau monde of Stockholm assembles
+in summer, but the season is over and there
+were not many people there&mdash;of <em>Society</em>; <em>people</em> there
+were, plenty. The gardens are large, well lighted, a very
+good band was playing, and everyone walking up and
+down the broad all&eacute;es, or seated at little tables with tea
+and punch. We sat there about an hour. Paten&ocirc;tre
+pointed out various notabilities to us, but said he didn't
+know many people.</p>
+
+<p>Now we are discussing routes with maps and books.
+We shall start for Copenhagen to-morrow night vi&acirc;
+Malmo, and must send in the morning to engage our
+sleepings. It is a long journey. We leave here at 8.30,
+and don't get to Copenhagen until 4.30 the next day.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Tuesday, June 26th.</p>
+
+<p>It is lovely again this morning. Richard and I and
+Mathias have been wandering about the streets shopping.
+There isn't much to buy&mdash;Norwegian knives with
+carved wooden handles in a leather case, Scandinavian
+charms, buckles, and brooches roughly worked, but
+rather pretty and curious shapes&mdash;furs, too, of course, but
+we didn't want any more. I was rather tempted by a
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_142" title="pg 142"> </a>
+large white stuffed bear. I thought it would look so well
+in the hall in the country; but of course the only reason to
+have a bear in the house is when you shot it yourself, and
+that was not possible in the streets of Stockholm in the
+month of June. The day is divine&mdash;sky blue and water
+dancing. The whole aspect of the place is much gayer
+than anything we saw in Russia. People don't look sad
+or preoccupied; there are always
+<ins title="Transcriber's note: original text read 'babauds'">badauds</ins> hanging over
+the bridges and exchanging jokes or remarks with the
+watermen.</p>
+
+<p>Richard and I breakfasted t&ecirc;te-&agrave;-t&ecirc;te, as W. had gone
+off for his Royal audience. His plaque and grand cordon
+came in time from the jeweller, so he was quite
+proper. I shall go and see about the trunks, and as soon
+as W. comes back we shall start again for some last sightseeing,
+the Museum, churches, etc. We dine at 6 and
+start at 8 from the hotel. Richard has decided to wait
+a day longer and go and see the Falls of Upsala, which
+are quite worth seeing. Mathias will go with him, and
+he will join us at Copenhagen Thursday. The Baldwins
+have just come in to say good-bye. They, too, are leaving
+to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>I will finish, as I have a quiet hour before dinner. I
+left the gentlemen at the Museum, as I was not very well,
+and thought better to rest a little before starting this
+evening. W. came in a little after two, having enjoyed
+the hour with the King very much. He says he is a
+tall, handsome man, very intelligent, and well up in
+everything. He received him quite informally in his
+cabinet de travail, which he said had also been Bernadotte's.
+There was a good picture of him on the walls.
+He was much interested in the Coronation, though he
+had heard all about it already from his son, but he was
+anxious to have W.'s impressions. He said <em>he</em> personally
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_143" title="pg 143"> </a>
+had never been very anxious about a Nihilist plot at that
+time. He didn't think they would choose that opportunity.
+He was much interested in everything French,
+literature, politics, theatres, and asked W. if he was
+going back to Petersburg as Ambassador. He also
+asked him if he had ever been in America, as he believed
+he had married an American, and was much surprised to
+hear he had never crossed the big pond. He told him
+too just what some of the Swedish diplomats told me,
+that all his best young men went to America. They got
+such high wages, and got on so well, that they were all
+leaving Sweden. I remember Sandford telling us years
+ago in Paris, that all the workmen on his orange plantations
+in Florida were Swedes.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus160.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="M. William Waddington" id="illus160" title="M. William Waddington"> </a>
+
+<p class="center small">M. William Waddington<br >
+From a copyright photograph by Russell &amp; Son</p></div>
+
+<p>W. had just time to get out of his dress clothes, and
+send back his order when Mathias appeared, and we went
+for a last tourn&eacute;e. First to the Church des Chevaliers,
+where all the Swedish Kings are buried, up and down
+some old streets where there are curious old houses, and
+wound up at the Museum. I only stayed there half an
+hour, saw some of the pictures and souvenirs of Charles
+IX, and then came home, leaving the others.</p>
+
+<p>Now we have finished packing, I have on my travelling
+dress, and am seated quietly at the window with
+my book, Tolstoy's "La Guerre et la Paix," but I don't
+make much progress&mdash;I am always looking out. A
+big steam yacht has just come in&mdash;ran straight up the
+river alongside of the "Lancaster." About twenty little
+boats have immediately started out, going close up to the
+yacht, and they have sent off a steam launch, which has
+come up to the wharf in about five minutes.</p>
+
+<p>Paten&ocirc;tre and his secretary have come to say good-bye,
+and to say that all the orders are given for this
+evening, and we shall have our sleepings. I wonder
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_144" title="pg 144"> </a>
+
+if you have seen Pont&eacute;coulant. He said he would go
+at once to find you. He has been saving up all he heard
+about the Americans and their frock coats and grey
+trousers (when everyone else was covered with gold embroidery
+and orders) for you, and hopes to get a good rise
+out of you.</p>
+
+<p>My next letter will be from Copenhagen&mdash;then Hamburg
+and home. The gentlemen have come in&mdash;found
+the Museum very interesting, and we shall dine in a few
+minutes, so this must stop and will go off from here by
+the evening courier.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Copenhagen</span>,<br >
+Wednesday, June 27th, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at one o'clock to-day, Dear, not tired at
+all, as our journey was easy. We had a capital waggon,
+a large sleeping carriage, a bed on each side, and a good
+toilette. We started punctually at 8.30, through fairly
+pretty country, nothing very picturesque, but a general
+impression of verdure. At 10.30 we stopped somewhere,
+had tea, and the man came and made the beds. I
+slept quite well. We took the steamer at Malmo, breakfasted
+on board, and enjoyed the crossing. The sea was
+beautiful and there were quantities of boats of all kinds.
+There was a thick fog for about half an hour, which was
+very uncomfortable, for we knew how many boats there
+were all around us, and as soon as our own whistle
+stopped, we heard many others unpleasantly near. However
+it lifted as we neared Copenhagen.</p>
+
+<p>The approach is good, but not nearly so fine as Stockholm.
+There are no islands and the country all about is
+very flat. The quantity of boats of all kinds made it a
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_145" title="pg 145"> </a>
+very pretty sight. We found M. de Kergorlay, Charg&eacute;
+d'Affaires, waiting for us on the quai with a carriage, and
+drove at once to the hotel. We wanted a little time to
+change, read our letters (we found a quantity, two from
+you), which you may imagine I was glad to have. I
+am so glad the boy has kept well&mdash;I am getting very
+homesick for him now that our faces are turned homewards.
+M. de Kergorlay said he would come back at
+4 and take us a drive. W. too found various letters and
+papers. We started again at 4 and had a beautiful drive
+to the "Deer Park" for some distance along the sea, with
+quantities of villas, casinos, caf&eacute;s with music all the way.
+There were some very pretty carriages, officers riding,
+and every description of pleasure boat, big and small, on
+the sea. Just as we were leaving the sea and turning
+into the forest we met a big break, with the Prince Royal
+driving himself and his family. The carriage was full of
+children. He recognized of course Kergorlay, then W.&mdash;however
+they are all in the country. We shall have
+no visits nor audiences of any kind. I am rather sorry
+not to see the Prince. He was in Paris and dined with
+us the Exhibition year, when W. was at the Quai d'Orsay,
+and I found him most sympathetic, and very good-looking.</p>
+
+<p>It was so pretty driving through the deer park. We
+had tea in one of the casinos, standing high over the sea,
+with a splendid view. We dined quietly at the hotel at
+a small table in the dining-room. We saw there General
+Appert and his family dining. They had come to Copenhagen
+to see their son, who is military attach&eacute; here
+(Madame Appert is a Dane), also Harry Whitehouse,
+who said they were in the country, but not far, and would
+certainly come in and see us. I have written a few notes
+since dinner, and W. has also sent one to be given early
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_146" title="pg 146"> </a>
+to-morrow morning to the Conservateur des M&eacute;dailles
+at the Museum. The hotel is very comfortable, we have
+an enormous salon on the front, and good bedrooms.
+Adela&iuml;de has fraternised with the Apperts' maid, and is
+delighted to have a compatriote to go about with. I
+was interrupted, as W. suggested we should go out and
+make a little turn in the streets while he smoked a cigar.
+The town is much less gay than Stockholm. All the
+houses are built of grey stone, and are high and narrow,
+rather like New York. There are a good many people
+in the streets and in the trams, of which there seem
+plenty.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, June 28th.</p>
+
+<p>It is again a beautiful day, and at 10 o'clock W. and
+I started. I took Adela&iuml;de, for I knew W. would be
+absorbed at once by the medals, and I didn't care to
+come home alone. We were received with much empressement
+by the Director. As I supposed, the Conservateur
+des M&eacute;dailles carried off W. at once, and a
+sub. of some kind was deputed to show me the Historical
+Museum, which really is very interesting, costumes
+and interior groups of figures of the whole world. They
+say it is very exact, but what a work it must have been.
+We saw it very well and fairly quickly, as it wasn't a
+public day, and the young man only showed us what
+was worth seeing. We walked home. It wasn't far,
+and he explained the route to us. I really needed the
+exercise. The town is decidedly gloomy, even in the
+bright sunlight, and might be any Northern town anywhere.</p>
+
+<p>I breakfasted alone at a small table in the dining-room,
+and had the big room almost to myself&mdash;two gentlemen
+were breakfasting at one end. Almost as soon as I got
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_147" title="pg 147"> </a>
+upstairs I had some visits. First Richard appeared, very
+pleased with his excursion, said it would have been a
+pity not to see the Falls, being so near; then came Col.
+Wyckham Hoffman and Whitehouse. Hoffman was
+much interested in hearing about the Coronation, as he
+was five years secretary in Russia and knew all the
+people. He and Mrs. Hoffman are at Elsinore for the
+summer and want us very much to come down and dine
+and stay over night, but I am afraid we can't. W. wants
+all his time here for the coins, and it would take quite a
+day to really see the place. Kergorlay came with a carriage
+at three, and he and I and Richard started again for
+the same drive. It seems all Copenhagen does it every
+afternoon. The sea looked enchanting, and I think
+there were more boats than yesterday&mdash;several big
+steamers, English bound they tell us&mdash;and such quantities
+of pleasure boats. We drove rather further into
+the forest, as we had more time. It is really very lovely&mdash;had
+tea in another casino with the same view of
+the sea. We met various private carriages with good
+horses, a certain number were breaks full of nurses and
+children; and some rather smart-looking officers well
+mounted. We didn't meet the Royal break again. It
+seems they are all (a big family party) at one of their
+ch&acirc;teaux near Copenhagen, and come into town very
+often. Kergorlay seems to like Copenhagen&mdash;not the
+climate, he says it is cold and foggy, there are days when
+one never sees the sun. It makes rather a gloomy impression
+on me. If I lived here I too would want to
+come every day to the Deer Park, which wouldn't be
+convenient perhaps for domestic arrangements.</p>
+
+<p>The streets are curiously banal&mdash;I wonder why? Of
+course one didn't expect to find the colour and half-Eastern
+look of Moscow, nor the gay half "bains-de mer"
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_148" title="pg 148"> </a>
+impression of Stockholm, but I am disappointed.
+One thinks of Danes as descendants of the Vikings,
+heroes, enormous men with long limbs and yellow hair.
+Do you remember the poem we were so mad about in
+the days of our youth, "Word was brought to the Danish
+King that the love of his heart lay dying"? I can see
+Mrs. Lawrence sitting at the table, and reading it in her
+full rich voice. I don't remember now who wrote it,
+but I am sure you will&mdash;and Copenhagen looks singularly
+unpoetical and modern. We found W. on the balcony
+when we got back, with his papers and his cigar, just
+tired enough after a long day's work in the Museum to
+appreciate a quiet hour. It has been warm all day, and is
+still. We felt the difference as soon as we turned into
+the streets, and we haven't the river under our windows
+as we had at Stockholm, and always a breeze.</p>
+
+<p class="author">4 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>Richard and I are just back from an expedition to
+Tivoli&mdash;the great garden here. We dined quietly at
+home, and I tried to persuade W. to come with us to the
+garden, but he declined absolutely, so we left him talking
+and smoking with General Appert, and we two started
+off in a fiacre. We were rather pleased with ourselves
+and the way we got along in a strange place and a strange
+tongue. We even made out strawberries and cream&mdash;"med"
+and something else I forget now. I don't know
+which was strawberries and which was cream, but we got
+them, and <em>med</em> was evidently one or the other. The
+garden is very pretty, very well arranged, with every
+variety of entertainment. We sat and listened to the
+band (a very good one, military) while we had <em>med</em> and
+&mdash;&mdash;, and then went into one or two of the small
+theatres and concert halls. All this too was modern,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_149" title="pg 149"> </a>
+might have been Paris or London. We saw one or two
+of our diplomatic friends disporting themselves at one
+of the theatres where there were "poses plastiques" very
+well done. I think they were "en gar&ccedil;on"&mdash;the pink
+flower hats they were alongside of didn't give me a
+family impression.</p>
+
+<p>We rather enjoyed our evening lounging about. A
+fortune teller, a rather pretty girl, evidently wished to
+tell our fortunes, <em>that</em> we made out by signs and the cards
+she had spread out before her, but we didn't think our
+knowledge of the Danish tongue was sufficient to understand
+all she would tell us of a brilliant future. Richard
+is delightful to go about with. He likes to see everything
+and know about everything, and certainly succeeds
+in some curious way getting all the information he wants.
+W. was poring over his notes when we got back. We
+told him all our experiences, and then talked a little
+about our day to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Friday, June 29th.</p>
+
+<p>It has been frightfully hot all day. I stayed at home
+all the morning. W. and Richard went off early to the
+Museum. I had a visit from Kergorlay. He has an interesting
+face, is a widower, poor fellow, with four children,
+one boy of two and a half. They say he is so
+devoted to the children. I told him I should like to see
+them, and he will send them&mdash;at any rate we shall see
+them to-morrow night, as we dine at the Legation. Richard
+came back to breakfast. He said it was cool enough
+in the Museum, and we started off for the Thorwaldsen
+Gallery. Of course some of the statues and has reliefs are
+very fine, but they are enormous, almost more than life
+size. We went on to the Frauen Kirche to see his statues
+of the 12 Apostles which are there. They were strangely
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_150" title="pg 150"> </a>
+familiar. We must have seen them reproduced in plaster
+at home. Both St. Peter and St. John I knew quite well,
+and didn't like them much. While we were loitering
+about the church the suisse told us a wedding was just
+going to take place, it might perhaps amuse us to see it,
+so we stepped into one of the side aisles and saw the
+cort&eacute;ge. The bride was the regulation white-veiled figure,
+I think she had a <em>green</em> wreath (it may have been
+myrtle like the German brides), the man was in uniform.
+What was really interesting was the dress of the two
+pastors. They wore black coats with white ruffles, just
+as they did in Luther's time. That reconciled me a little
+to this very uninteresting town.</p>
+
+<p>It was still very warm, but we did a little shopping,
+photographs and one or two trifles. Richard leaves to-night
+at 7.30, and we shall dine early with him. He
+is to stop a day or two with Mary at Meiningen, pick
+up his mother who is there, and bring her back to
+France. Mary wanted us to come, and I wish we could
+have managed it. It would have been nice to have been
+there all together, and they would have enjoyed hearing
+all our impressions while they were so absolutely
+fresh, particularly Charles, who leads a very quiet life now
+ever since his accident at the Quai d'Orsay. It is extraordinary
+how the last thing seen remains in one's memory.
+Already Moscow and that splendid pageant is fading
+a little, and I see Stockholm, and the green islands,
+and the dancing river.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, June 30th.</p>
+
+<p>It is still frightfully hot&mdash;not a breath of air. I have
+made as much of a draught as I can by opening the door
+into the passage. It isn't very convenient, as we are just
+at the head of the big staircase, but I have put a high-backed
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_151" title="pg 151"> </a>
+arm-chair between me and the passers by. It was
+really very warm until 11 o'clock last night. We dined
+downstairs with Richard, and were very sorry to see
+him go. Then we went to Mrs. Baldwin (the Admiral
+had gone off for two days) to ask her if she would drive
+with us. We made the usual turn, the only variety being
+our tea place&mdash;we take a new one every time. The
+g&eacute;rant of the hotel explains to the coachman where to
+go, and he chooses very well. It was lovely driving, and
+so cool on the top of the cliff that we walked about a
+little after tea. There is always a long, clear evening,
+not like Russia, but still very pleasant and pretty, such a
+soft light over everything. The moment we turned away
+from the sea back into the town we felt the difference,
+but the long drive had cooled us. I have asked for my
+breakfast upstairs in the salon. I really can't dress and
+sit in that hot room in this weather. W. is at the
+Museum, but comes back at 4 with the Director, who
+is to show us some of the treasures of the town. I
+am getting on very well here with "La Guerre et la
+Paix," as I am not distracted all the time as I was at
+Stockholm. I think you would like it, the <em>Russian</em> side
+of Napoleon's great campaign is so interesting, also the
+pictures of the society of Moscow at that time, which
+they say is extremely well done.</p>
+
+<p>W. came in about 4, not very warm, as he says the
+rooms of the Museum are cool, with such thick walls, and
+while we were waiting for Monsieur Warsoe, the Directeur,
+Mr. Vivian, English Minister, paid us a visit. He
+is very anxious we should come and see them at Elsinore,
+says it is most interesting (all memories of Hamlet). I
+should like it extremely, but W. thinks we must get
+home. I liked Vivian very much. He talked very easily
+about everything&mdash;he is going to dine with us at Kergorlay's,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_152" title="pg 152"> </a>
+says all the colleagues are most anxious to hear
+about the Coronation. M. Warsoe appeared about 4.30
+and we drove at once to Rosenburg, an old ch&acirc;teau
+where there is a fine collection of all sorts of things.
+Some of the Danish porcelain was lovely, also some fine
+tapestries. They showed us with much pride their
+tr&eacute;sor, jewels, and gold and silver services, but really
+after Moscow and the quantities of gold, silver, enamel,
+crowns, and jewels of all sorts that one had seen the
+others made no effect, though of course there were some
+handsome stones, rubies. What I did like was the 4 lions
+(couchant) of massive silver, which are always put at each
+side of the throne whenever there is a great ceremony
+at Court. They must look splendid.</p>
+
+<p>We went again to the Frauen Kirche, as W. had not
+seen it, and the second time I liked the Apostles better,
+a little better. I think it was too hot, and I was too
+tired when I was there before. We drove out to an old
+bridge, which was curious, and in some old street where
+I had never penetrated. The trams worry me, they are
+so frightfully civilized and up-to-date, however they were
+crowded, so evidently the Danes are not of my way of
+thinking.</p>
+
+<p>Our dinner at Kergorlay's was very pleasant and
+handsome. Adela&iuml;de was again frightfully put out at my
+garment, and she is right, it is really a street dress, and
+this time there are several women. I don't know why
+I didn't keep out <em>one</em> evening dress. It was rather
+stupid to send everything back. However, I made my
+excuses to the ladies, and said I was "en touriste." They
+were all very &eacute;l&eacute;gantes, though they were all already
+settled in the country, and went off about 10 o'clock by
+the last train. Kergorlay's children came in before dinner.
+The eldest girl is 10, and the baby two and a half.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_153" title="pg 153"> </a>
+It was so pathetic to see them in their white dresses and
+black sashes and to think whom the mourning was for.
+The dinner was very gay. We had Count and Countess
+Toll (he is Russian Minister here, and a brother of Countess
+Pahlen), Marochetti (Italian Minister) and his wife (a
+Frenchwoman, n&eacute;e Grandval), Vivian (she didn't come,
+was in the country and rather exhausted with the great
+heat), General and Madame Appert, and two secretaries.
+Count Toll was very keen to hear all about Moscow, and
+what we thought of the great show (he speaks English
+quite well). I told him we were enchanted, and that one
+of the great features was Comte Pahlen with his velvet
+coat and white staff of office with a big sapphire at the
+top. He certainly took no end of trouble, and looked
+his part very well. They all seem to like Copenhagen
+pretty well, except for the climate, which seems most trying.
+Countess Toll was in white with handsome pearls.
+I felt rather like a pensionnaire in my simple little dress&mdash;foolish,
+too; I ought to have known better.</p>
+
+<p>We got home quite early, so I can still have a little
+Tolstoy before I go to bed. Adela&iuml;de instantly inquired
+what the other ladies had on and was much put out.
+"C'&eacute;tait Madame l'Ambassadrice qui &eacute;tait le plus mal"&mdash;"oh!
+cela oui, et de beaucoup." I suppose it reflects
+upon the femme de chambre when the mistress is not up
+to the mark.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, July 1st.</p>
+
+<p>It is still frightfully hot. I did not go out all morning,
+though they sent a notice of services at the English
+Church. We shall leave to-morrow night for Hamburg.
+W. says two days more of medals will give him
+all he wants. After breakfast I went to see Mrs. Baldwin,
+whom I found gasping, sitting with open doors and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_154" title="pg 154"> </a>
+windows; also Madame Appert, who looked quite cool
+and comfortable, as did her two daughters, pretty girls;
+however, they said they didn't feel cool. When I got
+back to our rooms I found several cards, and then Mrs.
+Hoffman appeared. She was very nice and friendly, sent
+all sorts of messages to you and Anne, and wished Anne
+would come and stay with her at Elsinore. She likes
+Copenhagen very much, says the people are friendly and
+hospitable and invite the diplomats; also that some of
+the country places are very fine, quite in the English
+style. She made a great appeal to me to come to Elsinore
+with her this afternoon, I could come back to-morrow
+in plenty of time for the night train, but I
+couldn't manage. W. was still at the Museum, and
+would have been in a great state of mind if he had come
+home and found not me but a note saying I had departed
+for Elsinore. While she was still here, young Moltke
+appeared, our compagnon de voyage from Helsingfors
+to Stockholm. He hopes to be sent to Paris or London.
+I told him if it was Paris he must look us up. He is a
+very nice young fellow, very good-looking, tall, and fair.</p>
+
+<p>We have had our usual drive. We dined at 5 and
+started out rather earlier. If possible there were more
+people than we had ever seen before, as it was Sunday and
+f&ecirc;te. All Copenhagen, high and low, were on their way
+to the Deer Park. A stream of conveyances of all descriptions,
+some peasants' carts with straw at the bottom
+filled with women and children, everybody in a good
+humour. There were fewer officers riding, and fewer big
+boats on the sea, but endless little pleasure yachts. As
+we came back it was really a pretty sight, all the caf&eacute;s,
+casinos, etc., brilliantly lighted, all the villas, too, and
+people sitting on the verandas, some playing cards,
+some at tea tables, some walking about in the gardens,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_155" title="pg 155"> </a>
+we could see the light dresses fluttering about in the
+shrubberies; animation, laughter, voices, music everywhere.
+We stopped as usual for tea at one of the high
+casinos&mdash;the sea blue and calm at our feet some distance
+down, and the whole summer out-door life of Copenhagen
+behind in the woods and hills. It was delicious
+driving back, and even the streets were pretty to-night,
+so many people, and the cool air such a relief after the
+terrible heat of the day. We have decided to start at
+8.30 to-morrow evening.</p>
+
+<p>I tried to glean some information from a Danish paper
+this afternoon. Col. Hoffman told me that if one knew
+English or German one could read Danish quite well, giving
+oneself a little trouble, but I can't say that was my
+experience. It might have been Hebrew for all I made
+out. I suppose I didn't keep at it long enough. It
+doesn't sound easy when one hears the language spoken
+all about one, rather harsh. I mastered a little Swedish
+(to understand it) much more easily.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Copenhagen</span>,<br >
+Monday, July 2d, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>The heat is something awful to-day,&mdash;I think the
+worst day we have had. I was up early, as the salon is
+cooler than the bedroom, more doors and windows. W.
+is off to his medals until 5, and we leave to-night for
+Hamburg. The trunks are made (almost for the last
+time), as we shall stay only one night in Hamburg, and
+arrive in Paris Thursday morning. I had a nice visit
+from Kergorlay. He can't come to the station to see
+us off, as he dines with the King in the country, but
+will send his chancelier to see about places, luggage, etc.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_156" title="pg 156"> </a>
+We talked a great deal about his children. He feels such
+a responsibility, and it is hard for a man to have such a
+young family to look after. He said their mother was
+so devoted to them&mdash;it seems hard she couldn't have
+been left to them a little longer.</p>
+
+<p>I breakfasted downstairs, had a little talk with the
+Apperts, and then went to the reading-room for a little
+while to see if there was any news. The Comte de
+Chambord is very ill, dying they say. I wonder if his
+death will make any difference now&mdash;I suppose not. He
+has been only a memory practically all these years, as he
+never came to France, and only a few, a very few fid&egrave;les
+clung to him in his exile. I must say I rather admired
+him always. According to his lights (limited I grant),
+he was absolutely consistent.</p>
+
+<p>I had another visit from Col. Hoffman, who came to
+see if we were really going to-night. We have a despatch
+from Richard saying that we will have much difficulty
+in getting into any hotel in Hamburg&mdash;the town
+is very full. There are races going on, also a scientific
+congress of some kind&mdash;however, the proprietor of this
+hotel says it is all right, they will keep us rooms. W.
+came in at 5, having been working steadily since 9.30 this
+morning. He took a cordial leave of the various Conservateurs
+and Directors, but thinks they were not sorry
+to see him go, and take up their quiet life, two or three
+hours a day in the cabinet instead of 6 or 7.</p>
+
+<p>My next letter will be from Hamburg&mdash;and after that
+I will <em>tell</em> all I have seen and done, which will be much
+easier than writing.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_157" title="pg 157"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Railway Station, Kiel, 7 <small>A.M.</small>,</span><br >
+Tuesday, July 3d.</p>
+
+<p>We have two hours to wait here, so I will scribble a
+line to you, which will help to pass the time. We got
+off very early last night. Some of the young men from
+the Legation were waiting at the station with a servant
+to help us with our baggage. It really was not necessary,
+as we have only two trunks, and the porter of the
+hotel is most helpful and energetic. It was very warm
+even at that hour, and the compartment was stuffy, a
+good many passengers. We got to Korsoe about 11.
+The boat was directly opposite the station, and we went
+on board at once. There was some delay getting the
+baggage on board, so we sat quietly on deck and had our
+tea, and cooled off. The cabin felt so hot when I went
+down to leave my things that I couldn't make up my
+mind to install myself, particularly as the crossing (the
+Belt) was short, about 5 hours. The Captain said we
+should arrive between 4 and 5 at Kiel. We stayed on
+deck till nearly one o'clock. It was a lovely night, the
+sea quite calm, but a good breeze once outside, which
+freshened considerably as we drew away from the land.</p>
+
+<p>I went down about one, but didn't get much sleep,
+and was quite ready to go up on deck when they called
+me at 4.30, and said we were approaching Kiel. Almost
+all the passengers were on deck. The approach is not
+particularly interesting. I heard two gentlemen discussing
+us in English. They had seen our trunks all labelled
+<em>Waddington, Couronnement</em>, had taken renseignements
+from the Captain, who assured them W. was the
+French Ambassador. They thought he must be mistaken.
+"That man is an Englishman&mdash;he is speaking English
+now to the lady&mdash;I have heard them talking always in
+English. They certainly are not French." They hovered
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_158" title="pg 158"> </a>
+about us, and then looked rather bewildered, for Adela&iuml;de
+came up to ask me something, and then W. and I
+finished our talk in French. We speak sometimes
+French, sometimes English, it depends upon our milieu.</p>
+
+<p>The harbour is fine as one gets up to it. How hard for
+the Danes to give it up, and how they must hate the
+Germans. We got off about 5.30. The city was still
+wrapped in sleep. We walked about a little, and it was a
+curious sensation to walk about in apparently a dead
+town. We had some breakfast at the station, and have
+been out again. Then (7 o'clock) the town was quite
+lively, workmen moving about. We shall start in about a
+quarter of an hour, and have about two hours and a half
+to Hamburg. The long wait here has been tiresome,
+nearly three hours. The movement on the water and
+the quais was amusing, but really until after 7 not a
+soul was stirring, at least not in this quarter, and no trains
+coming or going.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Hamburg</span>,<br >
+Tuesday, July 3d, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>No words can tell, Dear, how uncomfortable we are,
+hot and cross. We arrived at 11, after a very hot, dusty
+journey. The town is crammed, even at this hotel where
+they had kept rooms for us (and such nasty little rooms,
+a small salon, giving on the street it is true, so that we
+can see all that goes on, and two minute bedrooms on one
+side) we can't get our trunks, nor apparently our breakfast.
+The hotel people are quite affol&eacute;s. There are
+races (with a German Prince of some kind either presiding
+or running horses, I can't make out which), "a horticultural
+show, a cattle fair, (and an anniversary of something)."</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_159" title="pg 159"> </a></p>
+
+<p>We said we would take a carriage this afternoon and
+drive about the city, and we might just as well have asked
+for a balloon&mdash;nothing to be had before 7 o'clock. I
+should think every carriage in Hamburg was out&mdash;quantities
+of all kinds and large omnibuses are passing under
+the windows, filled with women in light dresses, and
+a generally festive appearance. They hope to give us
+one then.</p>
+
+<p>We have had breakfast&mdash;the dining-room large, fairly
+cool, and empty (as it was late everyone had breakfasted
+and flown). They brought us the Figaro. The Comte de
+Chambord is dead, and the Comte de Paris starting for
+the funeral. Just as we had got upstairs again the man
+of the hotel came and asked if Madame l'Ambassadrice
+de France would receive Madame l'Ambassadrice de
+France. We were rather puzzled, but said of course we
+would receive anyone who came, and in walked M. et
+Mdme. de Courcel, and M. de Pina, our Consul here, M.
+de Sancy, the military attach&eacute; at Berlin. We were delighted
+to see them. The Courcels had been paying a
+visit to the Duke of Sagan in his splendid place, and,
+being not far from Hamburg, had come on to see the
+town. They were going to the races with M. de Pina,
+and wanted us to come, but we didn't care to (and indeed
+I don't know how we should have gone, as they
+had a small carriage which just held them, and we had
+none). M. de Pina asked us to dine with the Courcels
+at 8.30, and that we were very glad to do, as the prospect
+of a dinner in the big dining-room, with all the crowd
+of hungry people back from the various festivities, was
+not alluring. Pina told us as we couldn't get a carriage
+we had better take one of the small steamers that ply
+about in the inner harbour, and have an hour's sail. He
+was sure we would find it pretty and interesting. It
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_160" title="pg 160"> </a>
+would certainly be cooler than sitting in that stuffy little
+salon.</p>
+
+<p>There is nothing to see now in the streets, as the whole
+population is out of town, and the rumbling of carriages
+has ceased for the moment. W. is lying back in an arm-chair,
+with a cigar, in his shirt sleeves, groaning with the
+heat; and very hot it must be to reduce him to that state.
+I have a theory that no Waddington knows what heat
+means. No words can describe what I feel. Certainly
+fine feathers make fine birds, and I think no one would
+recognize the gold embroidered, bejewelled couple that
+went in the coup&eacute; d'Orsay to the gala dinner at the
+Palace.</p>
+
+<p class="author">11 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>We are just in from the Consul's dinner, and as it
+is cooler in the salon with the windows open than in my
+room, I will finish my letter to-night. We start to-morrow
+morning at 9 o'clock for Cologne and Paris. Now
+that we are getting so near I am very homesick for the
+boy, and for my own house. The constant moving
+about and living in hotels for the last fortnight has been
+tiring. I have got nothing left either to say to anybody&mdash;I
+have described the Coronation so many times that it
+is almost mechanical now&mdash;the words come by themselves&mdash;a
+steady stream, like the paper that rolls off
+the telegrams. I think I should never do for a <em>permanent</em>
+Ambassadress if six weeks of functions have exhausted
+me physically and mentally. As usual tho' last
+impressions are the strongest. I have already forgotten
+Moscow a little, and see the journey from Petersburg to
+Stockholm more clearly than anything else. I am sorry
+now that I didn't write a regular journal. Almost all the
+gentlemen did, and it would have been no trouble if I had
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_161" title="pg 161"> </a>
+made up my mind to it, and written regularly, but unfortunately
+my writing-table at Maison Klein was on the
+court, and as soon as I established myself all sorts of
+interesting things immediately began to take place under
+the window, and the ink was bad and thick, and I got
+it all over my fingers, and even up in my hair&mdash;I hate so
+to write.</p>
+
+<p>We sat all the afternoon indoors until 6 o'clock, when
+a little breeze sprang up, and we walked down a few steps
+only to the wharf from which the little steamers sail.
+It is about an hour, the tour round the lake, or inner
+harbour&mdash;quite charming&mdash;all the shores covered with
+pretty houses and villas, with lawns, and gardens full of
+flowers, sloping down to the water's edge. One would
+never have dreamed of finding anything so pretty and
+so <em>country</em> in this very business-like place. Many of the
+villas had nice little jetties and piers that ran out quite
+far into the water, and pretty boats and boat-houses.
+It seemed incredible to find all this so close to the
+hot, crowded hotel where we had been all day. The
+boat was quite full&mdash;principally business men going back
+to dine and sleep at their country houses&mdash;all Germans&mdash;we
+were certainly the only foreigners on the boat. It
+rather reminded me of Staten Island at home&mdash;the afternoon
+boat with all the business men on board, only one
+didn't have the broad expanse of the beautiful New
+York Bay, but a small land-locked lake.</p>
+
+<p>The sail and breeze (such as it was) revived us, and
+we had time to dress comfortably for our dinner. We
+didn't see the great port&mdash;divined it only, with the forest
+of masts of all sizes.</p>
+
+<p>Our dinner was very pretty and pleasant. Our host
+was some time in Holland, and has some lovely specimens
+of blue Delft, and some fine carved furniture. We had
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_162" title="pg 162"> </a>
+only M. and Mdme. de Courcel (who arrived very late,
+having been caught in the file of carriages coming from
+the races), M. de Sancy, the first magistrate of the city,
+the Burgomaster, all in black, a plain tight coat, with a
+white fraise, very stiff and high around his neck, and a
+long gold chain. Also two of the principal merchants
+of Hamburg&mdash;the Courcels were staying with one of
+them, as they could get no rooms anywhere. The house
+was almost shut up&mdash;all the family out of town, and a
+femme de charge to look after them. They said the
+rooms were very comfortable, and they took their meals
+at a restaurant or with M. de Pina, who is certainly most
+hospitable.</p>
+
+<p>W. was delighted to see Courcel and tell him all about
+the Coronation, and his impressions of all the people he
+had seen. The Burgomaster, too, was very keen to hear
+what we thought about everything. He is a clever old
+man, speaking French fairly well. They all evidently
+think there is much discontent in Russia, and some day
+there will be a great upheaving&mdash;de Sancy told me that
+Radziwill, Aide-de-Camp to the German Emperor, told
+him that our equipages, horses, etc., were so good. We
+thought so, but were not perhaps quite impartial. Richard
+says we all used to sit up talking after every ceremony,
+and say how well we did things.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner M. de Pina showed us some of his curios,
+which are interesting and very well arranged. One of
+the two merchants, I quite forget the name, has a beautiful
+villa on the Elbe, some little distance from Hamburg,
+and wants us very much to come and make them
+a visit. I was much tempted&mdash;it would be amusing to
+see a bit of German business life, and I think W. would
+not have minded if the invitation could be accepted at
+once&mdash;but we would have to remain on here for two
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_163" title="pg 163"> </a>
+days, as the gentleman is going somewhere else before
+he goes home, and really two days in these horrid little
+rooms would be impossible. M. de Pina told us the
+villas of some of these merchant princes are beautiful,
+with splendid gardens and all the luxe that money can
+give. He says they spend much more for their country
+houses than for their town establishments.</p>
+
+<p>We broke up about 10, as everyone was tired. It was
+a beautiful moonlight night, so we told our coachman
+to take us round by the great port. It was most curious.
+The water was black except just where the streak of
+moonlight fell on it, and there were thousands of ships of
+all kinds from all quarters of the globe&mdash;smoke coming
+out of the chimneys of some of the big steamers, evidently
+preparing for an early start to-morrow morning,
+and <em>millions</em> of masts tapering up against the sky. Lights
+in every direction, some high, some low, and even at
+that hour of the night little boats flying about. One
+saw a dark object start off from the wharf&mdash;suddenly
+stand out well crossing the moonlight streak, and then
+disappear&mdash;there was a constant sound of oars and row-locks,
+and long creaking noises like pulleys, and heavy
+things being hoisted on board a ship. They say the
+animation, and noise, and dust, and <em>smells</em> are extraordinary
+in the daytime&mdash;but at night-time all looked extremely
+picturesque.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Cologne Gare</span>, 10 o'clock Mercredi soir,<br >
+4 Juillet.</p>
+
+<p>We got off this morning at 9.30 from Hamburg, and
+had a long, hot, dusty journey&mdash;nothing very pretty to
+see. We arrived here about 6.30, found the Consul, Mr.
+Brandt, waiting at the station with a carriage. He proposed
+a drive&mdash;going first to the Cathedral, to see it by
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_164" title="pg 164"> </a>
+daylight, and then to dine with him at the station, where
+there is a very good restaurant, so we sent all our small
+things over to the private room, and started off to the
+Cathedral. I was delighted to see it again after so many
+years. Do you remember it was the first European
+Cathedral we saw after Notre Dame, that first year when
+we came down the Rhine. How magnificent it is, outside
+and inside&mdash;the long, stately vaulted aisles, so high
+and so still. There was no one in the church at that
+hour, and we had a delightful half hour. We walked all
+around the outside, and then went back to the station
+to dine&mdash;and a very good dinner it was, in the same
+room where we breakfasted when we started for Russia,
+now nearly two months ago, when all seemed so vague,
+and rather a plunge into the unknown. We shall certainly
+have souvenirs for all our lives.</p>
+
+<p>As we were finishing dinner the Chef de Gare came to
+say that a "lit-salon" was reserved for us, and he would
+have all the "kleines gepack" put into the compartment,
+and tell us at the last moment. The train starts at 10.30,
+and we get to Paris at 10 to-morrow morning, so we
+thought we would go out again and drive about a little,
+as we had so long to wait. We had a nice turn in the
+moonlight&mdash;the Cathedral looked beautiful, and we
+crossed the Rhine and drove some little distance on the
+other side of the river to have the view of the city. Now
+one or two Frenchmen who are here are talking to W.
+They have brought us tea, and I am scribbling this to
+you.</p>
+
+<p>It is delightful, Dear, to think that to-morrow at breakfast
+I shall be telling you all this, and Baby sitting up in
+his high chair, looking at me hard out of his round, blue
+eyes. There is <em>one</em> good thing in getting home, I
+needn't write any more letters.</p>
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_165" title="pg 165"> </a></p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Paris</span>,<br >
+31 <span class="smcap">rue Dumont d'Urville</span>,<br >
+July 5th, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>We got back this morning at 10 o'clock. The journey
+was very comfortable&mdash;there is nothing like those
+French "lits-salons." Our departure from Cologne was
+rather amusing. The Chef de Gare summoned us at
+the last moment&mdash;all the passengers had taken their
+places, the doors were shut, officials careering up and
+down the platform, and <em>yet</em> the train didn't start. Various
+heads were put out of the windows, and one or two
+irate gentlemen inquired what they were waiting for,
+and why didn't we start. Then we appeared strolling
+leisurely down the platform, with a small suite of gentlemen,
+officers, etc. The adieux were again a little long,
+and really one man was bursting with rage, and not at
+all mollified when he heard it was an Ambassador returning
+to France after the Coronation; "he supposed Ambassadors
+could be as punctual as anybody else, and when
+an express started at 10.30, it was 10.30 for everybody."</p>
+
+<p>We were very pleased to find Hubert and the coup&eacute;
+waiting for us at the Gare de l'Est, and Baby and
+Nounou in the street at the door of the porte coch&egrave;re.</p>
+
+<p>Well, the Moscow Coronation is over&mdash;I wonder what
+the next turn of the wheel will bring us.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_167" title="pg 167"> </a></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>PART II</h2>
+
+<h2>TEN YEARS IN ENGLAND</h2>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Boulogne-sur-Mer</span>,<br >
+August, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>Here we are after all settled for a month at the sea. I
+really needed the change and the sea-air after the fatigues
+of Moscow, and I was glad to get out of my own house,
+which is still crowded with boxes and huge cases labelled
+<em>Waddington Couronnement</em>, which now will not be unpacked,
+but go direct to London, as all the Court dresses,
+gala liveries, harness, etc., will be needed there.</p>
+
+<p>We decided just at the last moment to come here, and
+consequently couldn't get a house near the big hotels in
+the real "quartier des baigneurs," so we have taken one
+quite the other end of the town near all the fishing boats.
+They are a never-failing attraction. We love to see them
+go out, and, above all, come in, when all the women,
+bare-legged, and with flat baskets on their backs, go out
+to meet them and bring in the fish. W. wanted us to
+come here, as he was in London and thought he would
+often get over from Saturday to Monday.</p>
+
+<p>I made my first visit to the Embassy on the 15th of
+August (Journ&eacute;e de l'Assomption). W. thought I had
+better come over and see the house before arriving in
+November to take possession. We started quite cheerfully.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_168" title="pg 168"> </a>
+It was warm and bright with a good breeze&mdash;a
+few white-caps, but nothing out of the way. We saw
+the boats dance a little as they came in, but didn't realise
+what a gale was blowing until we got on board of
+ours. The wind was howling through the rigging, and
+the Captain told us he couldn't start, as the wind was
+blowing the water off the bar. It increased very much
+while we were waiting, and several passengers left the
+boat and stayed over in Boulogne until the next day.
+However we had promised to go; we are fairly good sailors,
+and W. had just two idle days he could give us
+in London&mdash;so we started. It was certainly the worst
+crossing I have ever made. The boat rolled and pitched
+terribly, we shipped heavy seas all the time, and arrived
+at Folkestone shivering and drenched. All the way to
+London we felt little streams of water running down our
+backs, and our hats were a curiosity&mdash;filled with water
+like a bowl. We emptied them on the quay, but the
+feathers, of course, were finished. We were met at Victoria
+by two swell young secretaries, in evening dress,
+with gardenias in their button-holes, who had come to
+meet their Ambassadress; and I have wondered since
+what impression they had of the limp, damp, exhausted
+female they extracted from the reserved saloon carriage.
+It was only a few minutes' drive to the Embassy at Albert
+Gate, where we were received by a stout porter and
+a most distinguished "groom of the chambers," dressed
+in black, with a silver chain around his neck. We dined
+alone in a fair-sized dining-room, with splendid Gobelin
+tapestries on the walls. W. came in about 11, having
+had a man's dinner with Gladstone.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus188.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London" id="illus188" title="The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London"> </a>
+
+<p class="center small">The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London</p></div>
+
+<p>The next day we went all over the house, which is
+neither handsome nor comfortable. It is high and narrow,
+like a cage, with no very large rooms, and a general
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_169" title="pg 169"> </a>
+appearance of dinginess and accumulated dust. However,
+the Minister has promised to paint and clean, and
+to do over the small drawing-room entirely, just as I like.
+Of course I shall have blue satin&mdash;you remember how I
+always like blue everywhere, on me and near me. The
+situation is delightful, on the Park&mdash;just at Albert Gate.
+The windows and balconies of the drawing-rooms give
+on the drive, and the "Row" is so near that I could
+easily recognise horses and riders. The season is practically
+over, but I have just seen a pretty group pass; a
+lady mounted on a fine chestnut and a child on each side
+of her on nice, small fat ponies; close to the little girl,
+about eight years old, with her fair hair streaming down
+her back from under a blue cap, rides an old groom, evidently
+much pleased with his little lady's performance,
+and watching her so carefully.</p>
+
+<p>Our inspection of the house took us all the morning.
+The kitchen, offices, servants' hall and rooms are enormous,
+and in very bad order. I should think it would
+take weeks to get it clean and habitable, and need an
+army of servants to keep it so. I am thinking rather
+sadly of my little hotel in Paris, so clean and bright, with
+not a dark corner anywhere.</p>
+
+<p>We went out driving in the afternoon, and I had my
+first experience as Ambassadress, as the coachman drove
+down Constitution Hill&mdash;a right of way reserved for
+Royalties and the Corps Diplomatique. We went
+straight to Mrs. Brown, the famous milliner, in Bond
+Street, to get ourselves new hats, as ours were quite impossible
+after our very lively passage, and the housemaid
+at Albert Gate had a handsome present of two
+hats with drooping feathers and a strong smell of sea
+and salt. London was of course empty, but a few carriages
+were in the park, and it amused us to drive about
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_170" title="pg 170"> </a>
+and see all the shops, and the general look of the streets,
+so different from Paris.</p>
+
+<p>We spent our evening quietly at home looking over our
+installation with W., horses, carriages, servants, and in
+fact the complete organisation of a big London house,
+which is so unlike a French one. I shall bring over all
+my French servants and add as many English as are
+necessary. I don't quite see Hubert, our French coachman,
+driving about the London streets, and keeping to
+the left. I should think we should have daily discussions
+with all the drivers in London; however, we must try.
+I wonder if I shall like being an Ambassadress, and I also
+wonder how long we shall stay here. My brother-in-law
+R. says perhaps two years.</p>
+
+<p>We got back three days ago&mdash;started on a bright summer's
+day. The Ambassador and secretaries came down
+to the station to see us off, and W. promised to come
+over and spend Sunday. We had an ideal crossing&mdash;blue
+sky, bright sun, and few passengers, and, notwithstanding
+our hard experience in the first passage, we are
+glad to have been over and made acquaintance with the
+personnel of the Embassy, also to have seen the house
+and realized a little what I must bring over to give it a
+look of home.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we have the news of the Comte de
+Chambord's death, and I am wondering if it will make
+any political complication. However, for years past he
+has only been a name&mdash;a most honourable one certainly&mdash;but
+one wants more than that to deal with the present
+state of France.</p>
+
+<p>After all W. never came over. Although London was
+empty, he had always some business to attend to, and on
+Sunday usually went to see some friends in the country.
+Last Sunday he spent with Lord Granville at Walmer,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_171" title="pg 171"> </a>
+which he said was delightful. The castle so close to the
+sea that the big ships passed almost under the windows;
+Granville himself a charming host. He knows France
+and the French well, having been a great deal in Paris
+as a boy when his father was British Ambassador to
+Louis Philippe (1830-4); Lord Palmerston was then
+British Foreign Secretary.</p>
+
+<p>We are very busy these days making our "pacquets,"
+as we leave in three days. I am sorry to go, as I have so
+much enjoyed the quiet life with the sisters and the children.
+We have seen few people, as we are not in the
+fashionable quarter, but we have become most intimate
+with all the fishing population. The young women and
+girls jibe at us when we go shrimp fishing, on terms of
+perfect equality&mdash;there are no distinctions in the sea&mdash;because
+we have not the sleight of hand necessary to jerk
+the shining, slippery little fish into the basket from the
+net. Some local swell, the Mayor, I think, came to see
+me the other day, and was told I was on the beach, so
+he came down and was much astonished when they
+pointed out to him Madame l'Ambassadrice in a hat and
+feathers, diamond ear-rings, very short skirts, and neither
+shoes nor stockings, walking up to her knees in the
+water with a fishing-net in one hand and a basket in the
+other, and followed by her little son and niece similarly
+equipped, all quite happy and engrossed with their sport.
+We have one or two country visits to make, and then I
+must have some time in Paris to dismantle my house
+and make my preparations for London.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_172" title="pg 172"> </a></p>
+
+<h3><em>To J. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Mersham Hatch, Ashford, Kent</span>,<br >
+Wednesday, November 28, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>You will say I am taking up my old habits of writing
+to you always from the country, but you cannot imagine
+how busy I have been in London since I came
+over just 2 weeks ago to-day.</p>
+
+<p>We came down here Monday afternoon to stay with
+W.'s old college friend and cousin, Charles Monk. The
+house and park are charming&mdash;quantities of large, comfortable
+rooms, and capital shooting. The gentlemen
+brought down a great many pheasants yesterday. The
+party in the house are Lord and Lady Abinger and Miss
+Scarlett, Sir George and Lady Chetwode, Mr. Leveson-Gower,
+a brother of Lord Granville, with a most polished
+courteous manner; a Mr. Price W. Powel, and a young
+Wm. Gladstone, nephew of the Premier. Monk has no
+wife, and three unmarried daughters; the eldest, Julia,
+does the honours very well and simply. I absolutely declined
+the 9.30 breakfast and asked to have my tea sent
+up to me.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday I came down about 12, took a little turn in
+the garden until one, and at 1.30 had luncheon. Then
+we went for a drive to Eastwood, the Duke of Edinburgh's
+place. The house is not so large as this, but
+the park is charming, with quantities of deer. We had
+tea when we came in&mdash;some of the gentlemen appeared
+and we dined at 8, all the ladies most gorgeous in satin,
+lace, and diamonds, the girls generally in white. After
+dinner we talked a little, then some of them played
+whist, and the young ladies sang. This morning the
+gentlemen have started again shooting, and I shall sit
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_173" title="pg 173"> </a>
+in my room quite quietly until 12, which gives me an
+hour and a half with the ladies before luncheon.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus194.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Dining room of the French Embassy, London, Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries" id="illus194" title="The Dining room of the French Embassy, London, Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries">
+</a>
+<p class="center small"> The Dining room of the French Embassy, London, Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries
+</p></div>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, 29th.</p>
+
+<p>W. is off again "running for partridges," whatever that
+may mean, and at 3 we go back to London. He has a
+big dinner somewhere to-night. Yesterday two ladies
+came over to luncheon, and in the afternoon Julia Monk
+and I took a drive in the pony carriage to meet the
+sportsmen, who had a very busy day. In the evening
+we made a little music, Miss Scarlett played very well. I
+expect to be very busy all this next week in London.
+The workmen will be out of the drawing-rooms, and I
+shall get all kinds of little odd tables and chairs and unpack
+my own bibelots. The carriages arrive, too, and
+we must decide about horses. Two English giants are
+engaged as footmen, of equal height, to go on the gala
+carriage, and we have our own two Frenchmen, one of
+whom is very tall. He and Adela&iuml;de came down here
+with us, and Adela&iuml;de is much entertained at the respect
+with which she is treated. She looked quite a swell yesterday
+with her black silk dress, but she says the other
+maids are much more dressy, attired in black velvet and
+satin and open dresses. Soon there will be nothing left
+for the mistresses.</p>
+
+<p>I will stop now, as I must be down a little earlier this
+morning. I hope you will soon be settled in Washington,
+and that the children will have no more scarlet fever
+or measles complications.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_174" title="pg 174"> </a></p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy, Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+December 1, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>I am gradually settling down, but everything, hours,
+service, habits, servants, is so different that I still feel
+rather strange. I quite sympathised with Francis, who
+was already unhappy at leaving Paris and his dear "Nounou,"
+and very much put out with his new German
+governess who was deadly ill crossing. His woes culminated
+on arriving at Albert Gate, when he was solemnly
+conducted upstairs by a very tall footman to his
+room (a nice large nursery and bedroom giving on the
+Park), and he wept bitterly and refused to eat any dinner
+or to have his coat and hat taken off. A great many people
+have been to see us, and we shall have some quiet dinners&mdash;and
+a shooting party at Mr. Monk's one of these
+days.</p>
+
+<p>The shooting party at Mr. Monk's was pleasant. He
+has a fine large house and capital shooting. The ladies
+walked about a little and followed some battues, and
+everyone assembled in the drawing-room for tea. All
+the women in full dress and diamonds for dinner.</p>
+
+<p>Our Harcourt dinner was pleasant. Sir William is
+charming&mdash;such an easy talker, with no pose of any kind.
+It is decided that Lady Harcourt presents me to the
+Queen. Lady Granville is away, and it falls upon her
+as wife of the Home Secretary. Sir William had been
+to Windsor, and had told the Queen of the curious coincidence&mdash;the
+French Ambassadress, an American, presented
+by the wife of the British Home Secretary, also an
+American,<sup><a href="#fn8" id="r8">[8]</a></sup> and an amie d'enfance of Mrs. Waddington.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_175" title="pg 175"> </a>
+I had some little difficulty in finding out what I was to
+wear (as there is little etiquette at the English Court
+upon these occasions), but they finally told me ordinary
+visiting dress, so I shall wear my blue velvet. We go
+down to lunch and see the Queen afterward.</p>
+
+<p class="author">December 7, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>I have had my audience to-day, and will write to you
+at once while I still remember it all. First I must tell
+you about Francis. He heard someone asking me the
+other day if I had been yet to see the Queen. I saw his
+face change a little, so when we were alone, he said,
+tremulously, "Tu vas voir la Reine?" "Oui, mon fils."
+"Est-elle toujours si m&eacute;chante?" "Mais la Reine n'est
+pas m&eacute;chante, mon enfant." "Elle ne vas pas te faire
+couper la t&ecirc;te?" Evidently his mind had been running
+on the Tower of London, where we went the other day,
+and where the block on which Anne Boleyn and Lady
+Jane Grey had their heads cut off was of course shown.
+When he heard I was going to see the Queen, his heart
+failed him, and I had some difficulty in comforting him,
+and explaining that sovereigns in these days didn't have
+recourse to such extreme measures (at least in civilised
+countries. I suppose the Shah of Persia wouldn't hesitate
+to dispose of a head that was in his way).</p>
+
+<p>Lady Harcourt and I started for Paddington at 1
+o'clock, and got to Windsor a little before two. We
+found a landau with two servants in plain black liveries
+waiting for us, and we drove at once to the Castle. It
+was a beautiful bright day, but snow had fallen heavily
+in the country, so that the old gray walls and round towers
+stood out splendidly as we drove up. We drove
+through several courts and finally drew up at an entrance
+where there were five servants in the royal red liveries
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_176" title="pg 176"> </a>
+with crape on their sleeves (all the Queen's household are
+always in mourning), a big Highlander in full dress, and
+a butler in black who ushered us into a large drawing-room
+with an enormous bow-window looking on the
+Park. Instantly there appeared Lady Erroll, lady in
+waiting, and four maids of honour. Lady Erroll shook
+hands and introduced the maids of honour, who made us
+low curtseys. Then came Lord Methuen&mdash;Lord in waiting&mdash;and
+we went at once in to luncheon. Everything
+was served on silver plate; there were four footmen and
+a butler, but the repast was of the simplest description&mdash;an
+ordinary English luncheon&mdash;roast mutton, fowl, pudding,
+apple-tart, etc. After luncheon we talked a little,
+and then Sir Henry Ponsonby appeared to give Lady
+Harcourt her last instructions. It was the first time
+she had presented an Ambassadress in a private
+audience. Precisely at three a servant in black appeared
+and said, "Will you come to see the Queen?"
+Lady Harcourt, Ponsonby, and I proceeded down a
+handsome long corridor filled with pictures, vitrines,
+of china principally, and old furniture, to a room at
+one end where a footman was standing. Sir Henry
+opened the door, Lady Harcourt made a low curtsey
+at the threshold, saying, "I have the honour to present
+the French Ambassadress," and then immediately
+backed herself out, and I found myself in the room.
+I made a first low curtsey, but before I had time to make
+another the Queen, who was standing in the middle of
+the room with Princess Beatrice, advanced a step, shook
+hands, and said, with a very pretty smile and manner,
+"I am very glad to see you." She asked me to sit down,
+and talked a great deal, was most gracious, asked me if I
+was getting accustomed to the climate and the stairs,
+whether I had seen all my "colleagues," and how many
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_177" title="pg 177"> </a>
+children I had. When I said one little boy whom I had left
+in London, she asked me what he was doing; I thought I
+would tell her about his fears for his mother's head, so I
+replied he was trembling at home until his mother should
+return. She looked a little surprised, but was really
+amused, and laughed when I told her his preoccupations;
+said, "Poor little boy, how glad he will be to see his
+mother back with her head on her shoulders."</p>
+
+<p>Princess Beatrice took no part in the conversation.
+She looked smiling and very intelligent. The Queen
+was very simply dressed in black, with her white widow's
+cap and veil, no ornaments, but a gold chain and pearls
+around her neck, and a medallion with a portrait of a man
+in uniform, whom I supposed to be Prince Albert.
+I think the interview lasted about fifteen minutes. Then
+the Queen arose, shook hands, and said she hoped my
+husband and I would like the life in England. Princess
+Beatrice shook hands&mdash;I backed myself out, and it was
+over. I was very much impressed with the Queen's personality.
+She is short, stout, and her face rather red,
+but there is a great air of dignity and self-possession, and
+a beautiful smile which lights up her whole face.</p>
+
+<p>I never could find out any minor details in dress, as to
+taking off veil, gloves, etc., but I did as I had done with
+other Royalties and took off veil and gloves, which I hope
+was right.</p>
+
+<p>Lady Harcourt and Ponsonby were waiting for me in
+the corridor, and seemed to think my audience had been
+longer than usual&mdash;were also surprised that the Queen
+made me sit down. It seems she sometimes receives
+standing all the time, at a first formal presentation.</p>
+
+<p>As we had some little time before starting for the station,
+Ponsonby showed us part of the Castle. The great
+halls, St. George's and Waterloo, are very fine, and it was
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_178" title="pg 178"> </a>
+interesting to see the great pictures which one has always
+seen reproduced in engravings&mdash;the Queen's Marriage,
+Coronation, Reception of King Louis Philippe, Baptism
+of the Prince of Wales, etc. One room was beautiful,
+filled with Van Dycks. We went back to the station in
+the same carriage, and Lady Harcourt and I talked hard
+all the way home. It was certainly a very simple affair;
+as little etiquette as possible, but the Castle was fine.
+The old gray fortress and its towers and crenellated walls,
+the home of the sovereign who lives there with little
+pomp and few guards&mdash;guarded by her people, in the
+same Castle, and the same surroundings as when she began
+her long reign, a mere girl. When one thinks of all
+the changes she has seen in other countries&mdash;kingdoms
+and dynasties disappearing&mdash;one can realise what a long
+wise rule hers has been. It is such a contrast to my last
+Royal Audience at Moscow, which now seems a confused
+memory of Court officials, uniforms, gold-laced
+coats, jewelled canes (I can see one of the Chamberlains
+who had an enormous sapphire at the end of his staff),
+princes, peasants, Cossacks, costumes of every description,
+court carriages, Russian carriages, the famous attelage
+of three horses, every language under the sun,
+and all jostling and crowding each other in the courts
+of the Kremlin&mdash;with its wonderful churches and domes
+of every possible colour from pink to green&mdash;only soldiers,
+soldiers everywhere, and the people kept at a distance&mdash;very
+unlike what I have just seen here.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, December 16, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon we have had our audience of the Prince
+and Princess of Wales&mdash;W. and I together. We got
+to Marlborough House a little before 4, and were shown
+at once into a room on the ground floor, where we found
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_179" title="pg 179"> </a>
+Miss Knollys and a gentleman in waiting. In a few
+minutes Sir Dighton Probyn, comptroller of the household,
+appeared and took us upstairs to a large, handsome
+salon. He opened the door, and we found the Prince
+and Princess standing. The room was filled with pretty
+things. The Princess was dressed in blue velvet (I too&mdash;I
+daresay Fromont made both dresses), and looked
+charming, no older than when I had seen her in Paris
+three or four years ago, and with that same beautiful
+slight figure and gracious manner.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus202.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="J J Jusserand Counsellor of the French Embassy, 1883" id="illus202" title="J J Jusserand Counsellor of the French Embassy, 1883"> </a>
+
+<p class="center small">J J Jusserand Counsellor of the French Embassy, 1883<br >
+Recently appointed French Ambassador to the United States<br >
+From a photograph by Walery, Paris</p></div>
+
+<p>While the Prince and W. were talking she asked me
+a great deal about Moscow and the Coronation, and
+particularly if the Empress was well dressed always, as
+she had been rather bothered with the quantity of
+dresses, manteaux de cour, etc., that she was obliged to
+have. The Prince remembered that I was the granddaughter
+of Rufus King, who had been United States
+Minister to London under George III. He was very
+pleasant, with a charming, courteous manner. The
+Princess instantly referred to Francis and his fears for
+his mother's head, of which she said the Queen had told
+her.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Friday, 21st.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon we had tea with the Duke and Duchess
+of Albany. She is a German Princess, and was rather
+shy at first, but when the tea came it was easier. The
+Duke is very amiable, talks easily. He looks, and is, I
+believe, delicate. We have a few dinners before us, and
+I am gradually getting to know all my colleagues.
+Mohrenheim is Russian Ambassador; M&uuml;nster German;
+and Nigra Italian. M&uuml;nster is practically an Englishman.
+His second wife was Lady Harriet St. Clair, a
+sister of Lord Rosslyn. He is evidently English in his
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_180" title="pg 180"> </a>
+tastes and habits, rides regularly in the Park, and drives
+a coach with four chestnuts that are known all over London.
+Mr. Lowell is United States Minister, and is much
+liked and appreciated in England. Mrs. Lowell is in
+bad health and goes out very little.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+January 5, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon we had our audience from the old
+Duchess of Cambridge. We found her in handsome
+rooms in St. James's Palace, and one lady in waiting with
+her. She was lying on a sofa&mdash;she is very old, eighty-four&mdash;has
+seen and known everyone, and talks easily
+both French and English. It really seemed a page of
+history to listen to her. She asked us to come back, and
+Lady G. told us that when she felt well, visits were a great
+pleasure to her, and also that she was always glad to see
+any members of the French Embassy.</p>
+
+<p>We got home to tea&mdash;and then I had various skirmishes
+with the servants. It really is difficult to make
+French and English servants work together. The butler
+is an Englishman, and directs all the men of the house.
+It is not easy to make the Frenchmen take their orders
+from him. They all want to be in direct communication
+with me. There are always two together in the hall&mdash;one
+Frenchman and one Englishman, and the result of
+that is that when anything goes wrong, and the bell is
+not answered, the Frenchman tells me he was not there,
+it was the Englishman's turn; and of course the Englishman
+the same&mdash;so now I have told Holmes (the butler)
+to make me out a regular paper every Monday with the
+men's names and their hours of service&mdash;Yves et George,
+10-12; William and Charles, 12-2&mdash;I hope that will work.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_181" title="pg 181"> </a>
+As to Hubert he hasn't driven me yet. He goes about
+London all day in a brougham, with one of those non-descript
+English servants, half French, half English, that
+we got from the British Embassy in Paris. I find the
+domestic part of the Embassy rather a bore, but I suppose
+things will settle down. The housemaids are a
+delightful institution, though I was amazed upon inquiring
+one day from my own maid as to who was a young
+lady with a red velvet dress, and a large hat and feathers,
+I had met on the stairs, when she replied, "C'est Alice,
+Madame, la seconde fille de chambre." It seems that my
+maid remonstrated with her for spending her money on
+clothes, to which she replied that all housemaids in big
+houses dressed like that, and that she herself would be
+ashamed if she dressed as plainly as my maids. The two
+thrifty Frenchwomen were scandalised.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus206.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Duchess of Cambridge" id="illus206" title="The Duchess of Cambridge"> </a>
+
+<p class="center small">The Duchess of Cambridge<br >
+From a photograph by Walery London.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,
+January 9, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>I paid a visit to-day to the Dowager Lady Stanley of
+Alderley. I found her at her tea-table in her drawing-room,
+with Mr. Gladstone having his cup of tea with
+her, and talking easily and cheerfully about all sorts of
+things (never a word of politics); no one would have
+imagined that he was to make a great speech that evening
+in the House. He really is an extraordinary, many-sided
+man. In the course of conversation the talk fell
+upon the Roman Catholic religion, and its extension in
+many countries, <em>particularly in America</em>. He said, turning
+to me, that a great friend of his, an American, Mr.
+Hurlbert, certainly the most brilliant talker he had ever
+heard, and one of the most intelligent, had told him how
+much the Roman Catholic religion was gaining ground
+in the Northern States of America. I rather demurred
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_182" title="pg 182"> </a>
+to his statement, even though it came from Mr. Hurlbert.
+His intelligence and brilliancy are undeniable, but
+I should have thought his views were a little fantastic at
+times. "I rather agree with you," said Mr. Gladstone;
+"but I have recently had letters from my friends Bishop
+P. of New York, Bishop A. of Massachusetts, and other
+distinguished Churchmen in the United States, who tell
+me that the Roman Catholic religion is making certain
+progress; their preachers are so clever, and know so well
+how to adapt themselves to the liberal views they must
+have in America." We then talked some time about
+the various Bishops and clergymen he knew in America,
+the slight difference between the two Prayer Books, etc.
+One would really have thought it was a Church of England
+clergyman, who has passed all his life studying
+theological questions. A few moments after something
+turned his thoughts in another direction, and he was discussing
+with Lady Stanley the translation into English
+of an Italian sonnet which he thought was badly done.
+"Too literal, really not understanding the poetry, and
+the beautiful imagination of the writer." It was extraordinary.
+I was rather mortified when he asked if I
+knew the two Bishops. I didn't, but it is fair to say he
+understood when I said how many years I had been away
+from America.</p>
+
+<p>Lady Stanley is a delightful old lady. She has seen
+and known everyone worth knowing in Europe for the
+last fifty years, and it is most amusing to hear her
+down-right way of talking. She was killing over the "Professional
+Beauties," a style of modern woman she couldn't
+understand. She asked me to come in again and have a
+cup of tea with her, and I shall certainly go, as one doesn't
+hear such talk every day.</p>
+
+<p>We dined with Mr. Childers, and there was a big reception
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_183" title="pg 183"> </a>
+in the evening, with all the celebrities of the
+Liberal party, the Harcourts, Hayters, Lord Northbrook,
+Tennyson (son of the poet), and many others, but
+of course in a crowd like that one can't talk. I hope I
+shall remember the faces. About 11 o'clock we went on
+to Lady Stanhope's, where there was a big reception of
+the Conservative party. There I found the Lyttons and
+some few people I knew, and many more were presented.
+They were all talking politics hard; said the Ministry
+couldn't last another week, as there is to be a vigorous
+attack on them in both Houses on Tuesday. Everyone
+says the Lyttons are going to Paris when Lord Lyons
+leaves. She will be a charming Ambassadress, and he is
+so fond of France and so thoroughly well up in French
+literature that they will be delighted to have him in
+Paris.</p>
+
+<p>The political talk was exactly like what I have heard
+so often in Paris, only in English instead of in French,
+and the men talking more quietly, though they abused
+one another well, and with less gesticulating. Also they
+don't carry politics into private life as they do with us;
+the men of opposite sides lavish abuse upon each other in
+the House, but there it ends, and they meet at dinner
+and chaff each other, and the wives are perfectly intimate.
+In France there is a great gulf between parties,
+even moderates, royalists, and republicans, and I was
+astounded when I first mixed in political life in France
+to see people in society turn their backs upon some perfectly
+distinguished, honourable gentleman because he
+had not the same opinion as themselves in politics.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_184" title="pg 184"> </a></p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Sandringham</span>,<br >
+January 12, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived this afternoon at two o'clock, and I am
+writing in my room, as we have come up to bed, and the
+gentlemen have retired to smoke. We came down at
+2&frac12;, found a saloon carriage reserved for us, and the
+Mohrenheims installed&mdash;father, mother, and daughter.
+We got to Wolverton at six, one of the Prince's gentlemen
+was waiting for us with two or three carriages and
+footmen. We had all sent our servants and baggage by
+an earlier train, as it had been suggested to us. The
+house looked large and handsome as we drove up. The
+party was assembled in a great hall, with a long low tea-table
+at which the Princess presided. It was easy
+enough, and I should think a nice party. The Goschens,
+Lady Lonsdale, the Master of Magdalen, Lord Carlingford,
+and others. The three young Princesses, Prince
+Eddy, and the Prince were all there. We talked some
+little time and then the Princess said Miss Knollys would
+show us our rooms. I found two large comfortable
+English rooms opening into each other, a blazing coal
+fire in mine, which I immediately proceeded to demolish
+as much as I could. Miss Knollys had told us not to
+bring low dresses&mdash;merely open bodices.</p>
+
+<p>We went down to the drawing-room about 8&frac12;, and
+a little before 9 the Prince and Princess and Prince Albert
+Victor (better known as Prince Eddy) came in.
+The dinner was handsome and pleasant, footmen in royal
+red liveries, men in black in culottes and silk stockings,
+and a Highlander in full dress, who stood behind
+the Prince's chair, and at the end of the dinner walked
+solemnly round the table playing the bagpipes. The
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_185" title="pg 185"> </a>
+evening was pleasant. The Prince showed us the new
+ballroom just redecorated with Indian stuffs and arms,
+and at 11 we went upstairs with the Princess, bidding her
+good-night at the top of the stairs, and the men went to
+the smoking-room.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we went to church, the ladies in an omnibus
+with the Princess and her three daughters, and the
+gentlemen walked across the Park, the Prince appearing
+as the sermon began. It is a pretty English country
+church in the grounds. In the afternoon we walked
+about the grounds; I was much interested in the large
+stables, where there are certainly over fifty horses.</p>
+
+<p>We had changed our dresses after lunch for walking,
+and the Princess looked marvellously young in her short
+walking skirt and little toque. One could hardly believe
+she was the mother of her big son, twenty-one years
+old. After the walk we assembled again in the big hall
+for tea, a substantial meal with every variety of muffin,
+crumpet, toast, cakes and jam that can be imagined, but
+it seemed quite natural to consume unlimited quantities
+after our long walk. The Princess and English ladies
+were in very dressy tea-gowns, velvet and satin with lace
+and embroidery; Madame de Mohrenheim and I in ordinary
+tailor costumes. The evening was pleasant; I remarked
+the absence of the Highland piper at dinner, and
+asked the Prince if he was not going to play. "Oh, no,"
+he said, "not on Sunday, he certainly wouldn't; I
+shouldn't like to ask him to, and if I did I am sure he
+wouldn't do it." We all leave to-morrow, the Prince
+going with us to London. We have enjoyed our visit
+very much, the Princess always charming and lovely
+to look at, and the Prince a model host, so courteous
+and ready to talk about anything.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_186" title="pg 186"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">Monday.</p>
+
+<p>We got off this morning at 11 o'clock. There is one
+curious custom. The Prince himself weighs everyone,
+and the name and weight are written in a book. Some
+of the ladies protested, but it was of no use, the Prince insisted.
+One young lady weighed more than her father,
+and was much mortified.</p>
+
+<p>I went downstairs to breakfast, which I don't generally
+do; I keep to my old habit of a cup of tea in my room.
+It was a most informal meal. None of the Royal family
+appeared, except Prince Eddy, who was going to hunt,
+and his red coat made a nice patch of colour. All the
+rest of us sat down anywhere, and the servants brought
+the menu. We travelled up with the Prince in his private
+car, and had luncheon in the car, served by two tall
+footmen, and everything on silver plate and hot. The
+Prince himself quite charming, talking a great deal, and
+seeing that everyone had enough to eat. I should think
+all servants, railway guards, and small functionaries
+generally would adore him. He has always a pleasant
+word and a smile.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+January 31, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>We have had two days in the country with the D.s at
+their little hunting box at Bicester, one of the great
+hunting centres. It was my first experience of an English
+hunt and hunt ball, and amused me perfectly. The
+house is small, with enormous stables and splendid horses.
+His four in hand is well known, one of the best in England,
+and the coach and servants so perfectly turned out.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_187" title="pg 187"> </a>
+We have two young German secretaries, good-looking
+Teutons, and two girls who have just returned from a
+four months' excursion in the tropics with the Brasseys
+in their beautiful yacht, the "Sunbeam."</p>
+
+<p>We started on the coach on Tuesday at 10.30, well
+wrapped up, as there were occasional showers and violent
+gusts of wind, particularly when we stopped at crossroads
+to see which way the hunt was going. The meet
+was at Middleton Park, Lord Jersey's fine place, and the
+park was a pretty sight as we drove up. A good many
+people, almost all the men in pink, but not so many women
+as I had expected to see. We really followed very well,
+as D. knows the ground perfectly and apparently at what
+spot the fox was to cross the road, which he did close to
+us, followed by the whole hunt, all jumping out of the
+field on to the road and back again into the other field,
+very good fences, too, but the horses evidently knew just
+what they had to do. We drove about till 3 o'clock, and
+then went back to Middleton to have luncheon. We
+found a most hospitable table, and it was funny to see
+the people dropping in at intervals, some of the men in
+their red coats, one or two ladies, and two or three children
+who had been scampering about on ponies. Evidently
+the meal had been going on for some time, and the
+supply inexhaustible; we had a very good hot luncheon.</p>
+
+<p>After lunch Lady Jersey (who is charming, very intelligent,
+and interested in everything) showed us the
+house. Beautiful pictures and old furniture, a massive
+silver table that was the dressing table of Queen Elizabeth.
+Of course we hadn't time to really see all the
+interesting things in the house, as it was getting late, and
+we still had a fair drive before us. Notwithstanding the
+good and late luncheon we were very glad to have tea
+when we got home. I certainly eat much more here, I
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_188" title="pg 188"> </a>
+suppose it is the climate, and then the food is a little
+different from what we are accustomed to, and I think
+very good.</p>
+
+<p>The hunt ball was really very pretty, the ballroom
+well arranged with foxes' heads, brushes, etc., all the men
+in pink. Everyone was "en train," and everybody of all
+ages dancing. I should think W. and D. were the only
+men in the room who didn't dance. They went home
+about 12, but H. and I stayed until 2. We heard afterward
+that the Master of Hounds was much depressed all
+the evening, as he knew he must take the French Ambassadress
+to supper (of course, he didn't know that I
+was American born, and could speak English), and the
+prospect of a long conversation in French with a woman
+he didn't know filled him with dismay. However we
+made friends (in English), and I hope he didn't find the
+supper hour too tiresome. There are two reasons why
+an Englishman hates to speak French; first, a sort of
+natural timidity which they all have more or less, and
+then a decided objection to doing anything he doesn't
+want to do, or which bores him. This country is certainly
+a Paradise for men, from the nursery days when
+all the women of the household&mdash;nurses, maids, and sisters,
+are slaves of the boys, to manhood, when equally
+all the women do exactly what the men want, and regulate
+their lives to suit the men of the family, who have
+everything their own way.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+February, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>I made my d&eacute;but in the official world last night at a
+reception at Mr. Gladstone's in Downing Street. There
+were four large men's dinners (and receptions afterward)
+for the opening of Parliament. Lord Granville and Mr.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_189" title="pg 189"> </a>
+Gladstone, Ministerial; Lord Salisbury and Sir Stafford
+Northcote, "Her Majesty's Opposition."</p>
+
+<p>The Gladstone house is small and dark (that is one
+of the things that strikes me here&mdash;the rooms are so
+much less lighted than in Paris), and always the chintz
+covers left on the furniture, which makes the rooms look
+ordinary. We found a great many people there. The
+Duke of Cambridge had been dining and was presented
+to us. He looks a fine old English soldier (was in uniform),
+was very amiable, and spoke to me in French,
+which he speaks very well. Quantities of people were
+presented to me, I can't remember half the names. Almost
+all the women were in black, half-high and no display
+of jewels. Mrs. Gladstone is an old lady, very animated
+and civil, she wears a cap, with blue ribbons, rather as I
+remember Mother. I was also presented to Countess
+Karolyi, Austrian Ambassadress, very handsome, and
+charming manner; she speaks English as well as I do. It
+seems strange to me to hear so much English spoken, it
+is so long since I have been in a purely English salon.
+W. brought me up various old friends of Rugby and
+Cambridge days; also some of the minor diplomats, as of
+course I have not yet seen all my colleagues.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+February, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>I am rather bewildered by the number of people I see
+and the quantity of cards left at the Embassy. I shall
+have to ask an English friend of mine to look over my
+list and tell me who the people are, and, above all, which
+cards I must return personally (or even make a personal
+visit) and which can be distributed by the Chancellerie.
+I drive about every afternoon for two hours leaving
+cards, and as no one has regular reception days here as
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_190" title="pg 190"> </a>
+in Paris, I rarely find people. We have had various dinners,
+political chiefly, at Mr. Gladstone's, Lord Stanhope's,
+Lord Northbrook's, a child's party at Marlborough
+House, which was very pretty. Francis made
+great friends with the two charming little daughters of
+the Duchess of Edinburgh, and sat between them at tea,
+the Duchess herself supplying them with cakes and sandwiches.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday there was a pleasant dinner at Lord Granville's.
+Two tables of 12; one presided over by him and
+one by Lady Granville. Her table was covered with red
+tulips, and his with yellow&mdash;nothing but flowers on the
+table. The drawing-rooms are large and handsome, and
+he has some splendid pictures. One thing seems curious
+to me&mdash;all the furniture at this season is covered with
+ordinary chintz housses or coverings&mdash;and the effect is
+strange with all the guests in full dress, diamonds and
+orders, servants in powder and breeches. We would
+never dream of doing it in Paris. When we have distinguished
+people of any kind to dine we make our
+salons as pretty as possible, and would want particularly
+to uncover our handsome furniture. Here it seems they
+consider that the season only begins after Easter.</p>
+
+<p>Apropos of powder, it was rather an affair to put the
+two French footmen in powder, as they of course had
+never worn it or seen it. Francis was much excited at
+Yves' appearance in blue velvet breeches and powder,
+Yves being a young Breton, his own special attendant.
+I think the maids powdered him in the laundry. However
+Francis came flying downstairs holding the reluctant
+Yves by the hand, to my room, saying, "Oh,
+Maman, viens voir Yves, il est joli, joli!" with the youth
+naturally much abashed at being so complimented in my
+presence.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_191" title="pg 191"> </a></p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author">February 29, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>We are commanded to Windsor this evening to dine
+and sleep. It is inconvenient, as we have to put off a dinner
+of twenty-one people. The chef is tearing his hair, as
+of course all his dinner is ready. When my maid came to
+pack the trunks she had rather a flustered look; I thought
+it was on account of the Windsor visit. Not at all. It
+seems a friend of Juteau's (our chef), who is also a chef in
+one of the great houses, heard that we were going to
+Windsor, so he wrote him a note telling him that his wife
+(my maid) must be well dressed and take a low or open
+bodice to Windsor for their dinner. The maid was most
+indignant for being supposed not to know what was right,
+and answered the note saying, "she had accompanied her
+mistress to every court in Europe, and knew quite well
+how to dress herself."</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Windsor Castle</span>,<br >
+March 1, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>Our dinner last night went off very well, and was not
+so stiff as I had expected. We took the 6 o'clock train
+from Paddington, and found the Russian Ambassador,
+Baron Mohrenheim, and his wife at the station. At
+Windsor two or three carriages and footmen were waiting,
+but no equerry as at Sandringham. We were driven
+to a side door at the Castle, where two servants in plain
+black were waiting, who showed us at once to our rooms.
+We had a pretty apartment furnished in yellow satin, with
+beautiful pictures, principally portraits; a small salon with
+a bedroom on each side, bright fires burning, and a quantity
+of candles. They brought us tea, beautifully served
+all on silver, with thin bread and butter (no muffins or
+toast), and almost at the same moment Sir John Cowell,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_192" title="pg 192"> </a>
+Master of the Household, came to pay us a visit. He
+told us who the party was, said dinner was at 8.45, that a
+page would come and tell us at 8.30, and that we should
+assemble in the great corridor. Quite punctually at 8.30
+they notified us, and we proceeded down the long corridor,
+W. in black breeches and stockings (no order, as
+he hadn't the L&eacute;gion d'Honneur, and couldn't wear a
+foreign order), I in white brocaded velvet and diamonds.
+We found the party assembled, the Mohrenheims; Lord
+and Lady Kimberley; Nigra, Italian Ambassador; Lady
+Churchill (who was in waiting); Lord Kenmare (Lord
+Chamberlain), and Lord Dalhousie (Lord in waiting)
+and one or two other men. We moved up to a door just
+opposite the dining-room, and about 9 the Queen came
+with the Duchess of Edinburgh and Princess Beatrice.
+She shook hands with me and Madame Mohrenheim;
+bowed very graciously to all the others, and passed at
+once into the dining-room alone. Mohrenheim followed
+with the Duchess of Edinburgh; Nigra with Princess
+Beatrice; W. with Madame Mohrenheim; and Kimberley
+took me. The table was handsome, covered with
+gold and silver plate, quantities of servants in red livery,
+plain black, and two Highlanders in costume behind the
+Queen's chair.</p>
+
+<p>The conversation was not very animated. The Queen
+herself spoke little, and the English not at all&mdash;or so low
+that one couldn't understand them&mdash;however, my Ambassador
+couldn't stand that long, so he began talking
+most cheerfully to the Duchess of Edinburgh about Moscow,
+Kertch, and antiquities of various kinds, and as the
+Duchess is clever and inclined to talk, that corner became
+more lively. I can't say as much for our end. I think
+most Englishmen are naturally shy, and the presence of
+Royalty (the Queen above all) paralyses them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus220.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Windsor Castle" id="illus220" title="Windsor Castle"> </a>
+<p class="center small">Windsor Castle</p></div>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_193" title="pg 193"> </a></p>
+
+<p>After dinner, which was quickly served, we all went
+out as we had come in, and the Queen held a short cercle
+in the corridor, in the small space between the two doors.
+She stood a few minutes talking to the two Princesses,
+while she had her coffee (which was brought for her
+alone on a small tray), and then crossed over to Madame
+Mohrenheim and talked a little. She sat down almost
+immediately, Madame Mohrenheim remaining standing.
+She then sent for me, Lord Dalhousie summoning us all
+in turn. She was very gracious, saying that she could not
+yet stand or walk, which worried her very much&mdash;asked
+me a great deal about my life in London, did I find everything
+very different from Paris, and had I found little
+friends and a school for Francis? The conversation was
+not easy. She sat on rather a low chair, and I standing
+before her had to bend down always. She was dressed in
+black, with her usual little cap and veil, opal necklace,
+diamonds and orders. While she was talking to the
+others the two Princesses moved about and talked to us.
+It was pleasant&mdash;the whole cercle lasted about an hour.
+The Queen and Princesses retired together, all shaking
+hands with me and Madame Mohrenheim, and bowing to
+the others. We finished the evening in the drawing-room
+with the household, staying there about half an
+hour, and a little after eleven we broke up. W. has gone
+off to smoke&mdash;at the extreme end of the Castle, as the
+Queen hates smoke and perhaps doesn't know that anyone
+dares smoke here&mdash;and I am writing with about
+twelve tall wax candles on my table.</p>
+
+<p>It is a bright moonlight night, and the Castle looks
+enormous. A great mass of towers, vaulted gateways,
+walled courts, and the beautiful grass slopes that look
+quite green in the moonlight. The lights at the far end
+seem like twinkling tapers. It is certainly a magnificent
+Royal residence.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_194" title="pg 194"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, March 1884.</p>
+
+<p>We got back for lunch, leaving the Castle at 10.30.
+We breakfasted with the household at 9.30; no ceremony,
+people coming in as they liked, and sitting down
+anywhere. We loitered a little in the corridor until it
+was time to start, looking at the pictures, portraits, and
+the curious cabinets and the bits of old furniture which
+are interesting.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+March 14, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>To-day was our first Drawing-room, and we turned out
+in great force, I had three secretaries' wives. We had
+out our two carriages. W. and I in the gala carriage
+with Count de Florian, Secretary of Embassy, Hubert
+driving us, and two English giants behind; then came
+the landau with merely one footman on the box, all
+in full dress livery, blue breeches, silk stockings, and
+powdered wigs. There was a great display of troops,
+and a crowd waiting on the pavement outside the door
+at the Embassy to see us start. There are no porte-coch&egrave;res
+in London, so you go straight out into the
+street to get your carriages, and a carpet is kept in the
+hall, which is rolled down the steps every time you go
+out. The streets were crowded as we came near Buckingham
+Palace.</p>
+
+<p>We entered the Palace by a side entrance, leaving our
+wraps in one of the rooms, and went up the great staircase,
+which was a pretty sight. Quantities of plants and
+flowers and a long procession of women with handsome
+Court dresses, splendid tiaras, and a few men in uniform&mdash;of
+course women preponderate. We walked through
+various rooms all filled with Court functionaries, officers
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_195" title="pg 195"> </a>
+in uniform, and finally arrived in the large salon opening
+into the Throne-Room where all the Corps Diplomatique
+and English people who had the entr&eacute;e were
+assembled. Countess Granville, wife of the Foreign
+Secretary, Earl Granville, looked most distinguished,
+tall and fair, in black with a handsome tiara. Countess
+Karolyi, Austrian Ambassadress, was beautiful in her
+Hungarian costume and splendid jewels. The Russians
+also most picturesque in their national court dress, red
+velvet trains heavily embroidered in gold, white veils
+spangled with gold, and the high head-dress (kakoshnik)
+in velvet studded with jewels.</p>
+
+<p>When the doors were opened the Foreign Secretary
+and his wife passed first and took up their station close
+beside the Princess of Wales, to name the members of
+the Corps Diplomatique. Then the Master of Ceremonies
+gave his hand to the Doyenne&mdash;the Austrian
+Ambassadress&mdash;her train was spread out by two pages,&mdash;and
+they entered the Throne-Room, making low bows
+or curtseys on the threshold. One makes 3 curtseys; one
+on entering the room, one half way and a third as one
+gets close to the Princess. We followed quickly, I with
+my ladies coming directly behind the Russians. The
+Court was small&mdash;Princess of Wales, Princess Beatrice,
+Prince of Wales and Duke of Cambridge. The Princess,
+a charming graceful figure dressed in dark velvet with
+coloured embroideries and jewels and orders; Princess
+Beatrice in mauve, and the two Princes in uniform of
+English Field Marshal. The Princesses shook hands
+with us chefesses and bowed to the young ladies&mdash;the
+Princes the same. There was no sort of trouble about
+the train; they are down only for a moment, just as you
+pass the Queen or Princess&mdash;a chamberlain picks them
+up most adroitly, puts them in your arm, and one never
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_196" title="pg 196"> </a>
+gives them a thought. As soon as we had passed the
+group of Princes we turned into a deep window recess
+and stood there until the end. That was most amusing,
+as we faced the door and saw everyone come in. It
+amused and interested me extremely to see how differently
+people passed. Most of the women looked well,
+their fresh, fair skins standing the test&mdash;and a pretty
+severe one it is&mdash;of full dress, white feathers and veil at
+three in the afternoon of a cold March day. Many had
+been dressed since 12, first sitting a long time in their
+carriages, and then waiting a long time in the drawing-room
+at the Palace, until their turns came. They were
+generally timid and nervous when they passed&mdash;some
+bracing themselves as if they were facing a terrible ordeal,
+some racing past very quickly, forgetting to take their
+trains in their arms, and pursued down the room by an
+impatient chamberlain, and some, especially the d&eacute;butantes,
+making carefully and conscientiously the low
+regulation curtsey to each Prince, and trembling with
+shyness. When the last person had passed the Court
+turned and made us bows and curtseys&mdash;the Princess'
+half curtsey is charming&mdash;and it was over. We all got
+away quickly.</p>
+
+<p>The great hall was an interesting sight, filled with
+women and uniforms of every kind, and a band playing
+in the great square. We had the usual "Drawing-room
+tea" to show our dresses. I wore the blue embroidered
+Court dress I had made for Moscow, with blue feathers
+and diamond tiara. All the English women wear white
+feathers and veils, which naturally does not suit everyone,
+particularly if they are not well put on. Some of
+the coiffures were almost eccentric, one rather high
+feather, and a long one very low running down one's
+back. The young men were pleased, as they had many
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_197" title="pg 197"> </a>
+compliments for our carriages and liveries. We were the
+only Embassy that had out two carriages.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+May, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>We went to the Derby this morning with Lord Cork.
+I had never been, and W. not for many years. We went
+down by train&mdash;(special, with the Prince and racing coterie)
+and I enjoyed the day. We were in the Jockey
+Club box, and it was a curiosity to see the crowd on the
+lawn, packed tight, and every description of person, all
+engrossed with the race, and wildly interested in the
+horses. There was almost a solemn silence just before
+the Derby was run. This time there was a tie, which
+is rare, I believe. It was rather amusing driving home
+from Victoria, as all the balconies along the road were
+decorated, and crowded with people, but I believe the
+great fashion of driving down had almost disappeared.
+Nearly everyone now goes down by train.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+June 28, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>This morning H. and I went to the second meet of the
+Coaching Club on D.'s coach. It was a pretty sight; a
+bright beautiful morning and Hyde Park crowded with
+equipages, riders, and pedestrians&mdash;quantities of pretty
+women all much dressed, principally in white, with hats
+trimmed with flowers, and light parasols. The tops of
+the coaches looked like flower beds. Everyone engrossed
+with the teams, criticising and admiring with
+perfect frankness. The fly-drivers were killing, knew
+all the horses, and expressed themselves freely on the way
+they were handled.</p>
+
+<p>We drove through the Park, and then on to Richmond
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_198" title="pg 198"> </a>
+(not all the coaches), where we breakfasted at the "Star
+and Garter." The breakfast was good, and at dessert we
+had "Maids of Honour," the famous cakes that one always
+gets there. We walked about the Park a little after
+breakfast; it was delightful under the big trees, and then
+mounted our coach again and went back by Hurlingham
+to see a polo match. The road was crowded and driving
+very difficult, but D. is a capital whip, and I wasn't in the
+least nervous, though sometimes it did seem as if the
+bit of road they left us was rather narrow. However D.
+drove straight on without slackening&mdash;and they do make
+way for a coach. I think it is a sort of national pride in
+a fine team.</p>
+
+<p>Hurlingham is very pretty and there were quantities
+of people there. We saw very well from the top of the
+coach, and I must say the game was beautifully played.
+Of course the men all rode perfectly, but the ponies were
+so clever, quite as keen as the riders, and seemed to know
+all about it. We got back to the Embassy about 8, and
+happily had no one to dinner, but sat on the balcony all
+the evening, W. smoking, and talking about his conference,
+which is not going smoothly. The English are
+stiff, and the people at home unreasonable. I can't imagine
+how French and English can ever work together&mdash;they
+are so absolutely unlike.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, July, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>W. went to Paris this morning and H. and I are left
+to our own devices. I dined alone at the Speaker's and
+it was pleasant. After dinner we went down to the
+terrace and walked and sat about. It was so warm
+that we all sat there with bare arms and necks. It was so
+pretty; boats passing on the river, all the bridges lighted,
+and so cool and dark on the terrace that one could
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_199" title="pg 199"> </a>
+hardly recognise the people as they walked up and down.
+I went back to the Embassy to get H., and we went to
+Devonshire House, where there was a big reception&mdash;all
+the world there, and the house very handsome, a fine
+staircase; Lord Hartington receiving us, as the Duke is
+an old man and couldn't stand the fatigue.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus228.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="M and Mme Waddington and Their Son" id="illus228" title="M and Mme Waddington and Their Son"> </a>
+
+<p class="center small"> M and Mme Waddington and Their Son<br >
+From a photograph by Cesar  Paris</p></div>
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+February 9, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we have the news of the fall of Khartoum
+and the murder of Gordon. W. is in the country
+trying horses, so I put on my hat and went out into the
+Row to hear what was going on. It was crowded with
+people talking and gesticulating. The Conservatives
+furious, "such a ministry a disgrace to the country," and
+a tall man on a handsome chestnut, talking to Admiral
+C. most energetically, "I am a moderate man myself, but
+I would willingly give a hand to hang Gladstone on this
+tree." They are much disgusted&mdash;and with reason.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Monday, February 23, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>It seems to be my week, Dear Gertrude, so I will at
+any rate begin this morning. We are now in full tide
+of dinners and routs, which last is the most frightful species
+of entertainment that the human mind has ever devised.
+They consist of 400 or 500 people packed close
+in a house which holds about 150&mdash;so warm in the rooms
+that you almost stifle&mdash;and so cold on the staircase and
+halls where the door is always open wide that I always
+wonder how I can escape without a fluxion de poitrine.
+We had a banquet ourselves last Tuesday, Harcourts
+M&uuml;nsters, Corks, etc., followed by a mild dance, which
+was however successful, as Pourtal&egrave;s, who is a gay little
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_200" title="pg 200"> </a>
+fellow, led a spirited cotillon, and there were 22 couples.
+I performed 2 quadrilles, which, naturally, is the extent of
+my dancing now, unless I take a stray turn with an old
+partner.</p>
+
+<p>Of course the great excitement has been the departure
+of the Guards for Egypt, as it takes the husbands, sons,
+and brothers of half London away. It does seem such a
+useless campaign and sacrifice of human life.</p>
+
+<p>There was a child's party at Marlborough House on
+Friday afternoon which was very successful. Mimi and
+I were bidden, or <em>commanded</em>, as the correct phrase is,
+at 4 o'clock, so we took ourselves off, he in his white
+sailor suit, with blue collar, and I in blue velvet. Both
+Prince and Princess were very amiable, and the Duchess
+of Edinburgh was very good to Mimi, as she always is,
+making him sit by her daughters to see the conjuror, and
+at her table for tea. The children had their tea in
+the dining-room, with a great many little round tables,
+we had ours with the Princess. It is very informal, she
+always makes it herself, and everyone sits down. The
+Princess Louise was also there, looking very nice, and
+such a pretty figure. After the tea the children had a
+fine romp, ending with a most animated Sir Roger de
+Coverley, in which all the Princes&mdash;I mean the 2 younger
+ones, Prince Eddy and Prince George&mdash;joined, and
+all the Aides-de-Camp. We didn't leave till 7&mdash;and the
+afternoon was rather long, but still I must say I enjoyed
+myself.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday we had a pleasant dinner at Lady Hayter's&mdash;a
+Liberal political salon. She has big dinners&mdash;receptions
+every Saturday. It was pleasant at first, until many
+more people came than the house would hold, but that is
+what the "Ma&icirc;tresse de Maison" particularly aims at.</p>
+
+<p>Everyone here sympathises with Lowell on the death
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_201" title="pg 201"> </a>
+of his wife. She was so very peculiar. I wrote him a
+little note, as he was always very amiable to me and complimentary
+about Father and Grandpa. This evening
+we had a dinner at Julia, Lady Tweeddale's, who is
+chaperoning her niece, Sir Robert Peel's daughter.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Tuesday.</p>
+
+<p>I couldn't finish last evening, so take up my letter
+now at 7 o'clock, while I am waiting to dress for
+dinner. It is a quiet dinner at the Miss Monks'&mdash;two
+cousins, maiden ladies&mdash;and I shall wear a high dress,
+which is much easier to get into. Our dinner last
+night was pleasant and swell&mdash;Duke and Duchess of
+Leeds, Lord and Lady Delawarr, Lord and Lady Claud
+Hamilton (she a beauty, with a fine figure; he an
+attractive Irishman, son of the Duke of Abercorn) and
+others. They danced afterwards, and we stayed till 12
+o'clock. The pose of the fast young married set is not
+to dance. There is no one to dance with, the Guards
+are gone. The Row was lovely this morning, like a
+May day, everybody out. I hope to begin to ride again
+next week. I am in treaty for a very handsome chestnut,
+if the man will come down a little in his price.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,
+February 25, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>We have been to-day to the House of Lords to hear
+Lord Salisbury speak and the vote of censure passed.
+The House was full&mdash;the Prince and Duke of Cambridge
+there. Lord Salisbury spoke well; very calm, very nasty
+for his adversaries, and as he had the beau r&ocirc;le he was
+much applauded. The defence was weak, the orator
+feeling evidently that his cause was a bad one, and the
+temper of the House against him. I should think Lord
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_202" title="pg 202"> </a>
+Salisbury would be a most unpleasant adversary, though
+always perfectly courteous in manner.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To J. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France &agrave; Londres</span>,<br >
+Monday, March 9, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>This is my week again, Dear Jan, and I will begin to-day.</p>
+
+<p>We are going on in a wildly dissipated manner. Last
+week was very full. We went to a very pretty ball given
+by the Artillery Company of London to the Prince and
+Princess. The Duke of Portland, a young fellow, is
+colonel of the regiment, and the thing was very well
+done. Both Prince and Princess danced several times.
+The supper was very pretty. When it was ready everybody
+made a line all down the ballroom, and then
+the procession, with the Princess first and the Duke of
+Portland, then the Prince with me and various other
+Princes and swells, walked down the long room, the band
+playing the "British Grenadiers," and all the people bowing
+and curtseying. The Royal party supped on a platform
+and there were 1,000 people seated at supper at
+long narrow tables, everyone looking hard at the Princess.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, 12th.</p>
+
+<p>I never got any further and never have had time since,
+but I will begin this morning and finish my letter this
+evening. To-day is the first Drawing-room of the season.
+As Countess Karolyi doesn't come, I am the
+Doyenne, and shall have to go in first, led by Sir Francis
+Seymour. Mr. Lowell has asked me to take his
+presentation. However there is only Bessie V. R.,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_203" title="pg 203"> </a>
+Eugene's daughter, who is pleased at being presented
+by an Ambassadress. She will also see the Diplomatic
+Corps pass. I wish Jess were here, and so does
+Adela&iuml;de, who would be so delighted to dress her.
+Last night we had a very pleasant dinner at Lady
+Jersey's. Such a handsome woman was there, the young
+Duchess of Montrose. After dinner we went to the
+Speaker's reception, which was crowded, but rather
+amusing&mdash;such funny looking people and such dresses.</p>
+
+<p>I am overrun with artists. There are several French
+artists of all kinds here, and I must make them play
+once, so I have decided upon next Friday afternoon. It
+is my day and I shall invite all the musical and entertaining
+people I know, as of course they all wish to be
+heard. One girl really does play very well on the violin,
+and wants me very much to sing with her accompaniment,
+which, naturally, I shan't, and another sings, not
+very remarkably, and a third, Marie Dubois, plays really
+beautifully&mdash;premier prix du Conservatoire. I will write
+you all about it when it is over.</p>
+
+<p class="author">7 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>Well, we have performed the Drawing-room&mdash;it was
+short, not more than an hour and a quarter, and I must
+say very few pretty faces or pretty dresses&mdash;Bessie V. R.
+looked very well, very distinguished. She followed directly
+behind me&mdash;even in front of my secretaries' wives,
+and was the third lady in the room. There were quite a
+lot of Princes&mdash;Prince and Princess of Wales, Prince
+Waldemar of Denmark, Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh,
+Duke of Cambridge and Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar.
+Mme. de Bylandt, wife of the Dutch Minister,
+presented Mme. and Mlle. de Brenen, Dutch ladies, both
+mother and daughter handsome and well dressed. The
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_204" title="pg 204"> </a>
+Princess looked charming in white and gold. The Duchess
+of Edinburgh had a dark green velvet train. We
+all came back here to tea and had various visitors to
+look at the dresses, including Baron Pawel-Rammingen,
+husband of Princess Frederica of Hanover, who also
+happened in and was much amused at finding such an
+&eacute;talage of trains&mdash;happily we have nothing this evening.
+Next week is the marriage of the Duke of B.'s daughter.
+It is to be at Westminster Abbey and very swell, the
+Prince and Princess going. There is to be a party
+Tuesday night, where all her jewels are to be shown,
+which they say are splendid. I am sorry not to go, but
+we have a dinner and a dance ourselves. I shall go to
+the wedding. She is small and quiet&mdash;rather shy. I
+don't know whether one of those mysterious changes
+will take place which one sees sometimes after marriage&mdash;coronets
+and trains do a great deal. I must finish,
+as I have of course several notes to answer. I hate it
+so, when people wait for answers. I suppose I shall
+have a fine account of the Inauguration from Gertrude.
+I hope the girls have enjoyed it.</p>
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,
+March 12, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>I went yesterday to say good-bye to Lady R. They
+are leaving for Bombay, where he is named Governor.
+It is for five years; I think I should be unwilling to go
+so far, and to such a trying climate, but she seems plucky
+enough and will certainly do well.</p>
+
+<p>Francis and I were driving up Constitution Hill yesterday
+just as the Queen arrived, so we had a very good
+look at her. She was in an open carriage with Princess
+Beatrice and her fianc&eacute;, Prince Henry of Battenberg
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_205" title="pg 205"> </a>
+(such a handsome man), and the usual escort of Life-Guards.
+She recognised me perfectly, and always has a
+gracious bow and smile. Just before she came one of our
+English friends who was walking about with her daughter
+(a young girl who had never seen the Queen) suddenly
+spied me (as mine was the only carriage that was
+allowed to stand) and asked me if she and her daughter
+could get into the carriage with me, as that would be such
+a good chance for the girl to see the Queen. I of course
+was delighted to have them, as Francis and I were alone,
+and the girl saw perfectly. So many English people, except
+those who go to Drawing-Rooms, never get a chance
+to see the Queen at all.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, March.</p>
+
+<p>We have been to Church this morning at Westminster
+Abbey, such a magnificent service. The Dean always
+gives us seats, and I love the music, the boys sing very
+well, and the hymns are grand as they echo through the
+fine old church. In every direction there is some historical
+souvenir; tombs, old glass windows, tattered flags,
+crests,&mdash;all England's past. We walked home through
+Green Park, and it is curious to notice the absence
+of equipages&mdash;so many English people don't take out
+their carriages on Sunday (to rest the horses and let the
+servants go to church), again such a striking contrast to
+Paris, where every kind of conveyance is out on that day.
+I think of the little grocer near H. who goes out every
+Sunday as soon as it is at all warm with his whole family
+and 2 or 3 dogs in his little covered cart. All the
+"Soci&eacute;t&eacute;" is out also; at the big concerts, reviews, races,
+etc. Sunday is the great Parisian holiday.</p>
+
+<p>This morning before starting I had my head out of
+the window on the other side of the Embassy, looking
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_206" title="pg 206"> </a>
+at the Guards pass on their way to the little church just
+behind the Embassy in Knightsbridge. They came
+down from the barracks at a swinging pace, a fine body
+of men, the sergeants with their canes, and several officers.
+The band, a very good one, plays all the time (to-day
+they marched to the French tune "Le P&egrave;re Victoire"),
+and takes up its station, always playing, at the door of
+the church. They play until the last man files in, then
+suddenly the music stops, and the band goes in also. It
+always interests the French servants immensely, the two
+maids had their heads out too, and said to me just now,
+"C'est bien beau, Madame, quel dommage que cela ne
+se passe pas comme cela chez nous." The service in the
+Guards' Chapel at Wellington Barracks is also a fine one,
+the chapel filled with soldiers, a mass of red (as one sees
+only their tunics), and the singing very good&mdash;a little
+loud sometimes when it is a favourite hymn and all
+join in.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+March 13, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>We have had our second "Drawing-room" to-day, and
+were asked to come in "demi-deuil," as it was the first
+time the Queen had received any of the Corps Diplomatique
+since the Duke of Albany's death. There are
+always more people when the Queen holds the Drawing-room,
+as it is the only chance so many of her subjects
+ever have of seeing her. She rarely comes to London,
+and stays only two or three days. She was dressed with
+her little closed diamond crown, the blue ribbon of the
+Garter, and many diamonds. I thought the black becoming
+generally.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_207" title="pg 207"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">March 16th.</p>
+
+<p>At our dinner to-day at Lord A.'s Mr. Campbell was
+next to me, and told me he was most anxious to be recalled
+to the French Ambassador, that he had been his
+fag at Rugby, and had never seen him since. Of course
+they made acquaintance again after dinner, and plunged
+into all sorts of recollections of their school days. The
+other men who were smoking with them said the talk was
+most interesting and curious, as their careers in after life
+had been so very different. At every turn W. finds
+someone who had been at Rugby or Cambridge with
+him.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author">April 9, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>This morning it is pouring, so I gave up the Oxford
+and Cambridge boat race. W. and Count de Florian
+started all with light blue rosettes (Cambridge). W.
+was on the umpire boat. Cambridge won easily, which
+was of course a great pleasure to him (having rowed
+himself so many years ago in the Cambridge crew),
+in the evening. He said he was so much cheered when
+he got up to speak&mdash;young men standing on chairs to
+see him&mdash;that he had to wait some time before he could
+begin. He is certainly the only foreign Ambassador that
+ever rowed in the Cambridge eight. He was quite pleased
+when he came home, so many old memories of happy
+boyish days had been brought back. We talked for
+some time after dinner, and recalled all sorts of Cambridge
+experiences&mdash;once when the Queen came with
+Prince Albert to Cambridge the students were all assembled
+in the court-yard as her carriage drove up. It
+had been raining, and the Queen hesitated a moment in
+getting out, as the ground was wet and there was mud.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_208" title="pg 208"> </a>
+Instantly W. had his gown off and on the ground, the
+others followed his example, and she walked over a carpet
+of silk gowns the few steps she had to make. W. said he
+had never forgotten her smile as she bowed and thanked
+them.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To J. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">The Garth, Bicester</span>,<br >
+Sunday, April 19, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>I believe this is my week, Dear Jan. I am staying
+here at a queer little hunting box in Oxfordshire with
+Hilda Deichmann (n&eacute;e de Bunsen). It is literally an
+enormous stable, with a cottage attached, but they have
+added a story and wings and it is the most wonderful-looking
+place, very low&mdash;but comfortable. W. went
+off to Paris Sunday, and I came down here last Saturday
+with Mimi. He is very fond of the children&mdash;a big boy
+of 11 and a girl of 7&mdash;and has enjoyed himself thoroughly.
+We feel awfully cut up at Pont&eacute;coulant's death.
+He has been such a good friend to us, and so completely
+associated with all our political life. It seems incredible
+that a strong man should be carried off like that in
+4 days from a cold. Henrietta will miss him awfully, as,
+now that we are so much away he was always there and
+attending to anything she wanted done.</p>
+
+<p>Of course everyone is talking and speculating about
+the Anglo-Russian question. W. thinks the English
+must fight, and that they will. I think this government,
+with Gladstone at its head, will never make up their minds
+to fight seriously or in time, judging from the way the
+Soudan campaign has been conducted.</p>
+
+<p>We have been driving all over the country, which is
+charming, flat, but all grass (Oxfordshire is a regular
+hunting country), and since three days the weather has
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_209" title="pg 209"> </a>
+been enchanting. Yesterday we made a lovely excursion
+to Blenheim on Deichmann's coach. We picked
+up 2 neighbours, nice, pretty English girls, and had a
+beautiful drive over the downs. Mimi had never been on
+a coach before, and was in a wild state of delight when
+all four horses galloped up the hills, and they blew the
+horns at all the railway stations and passing thro' the
+villages. I had forgotten how magnificent Blenheim was.
+The house is rather dismantled, as the present Duke has
+sold all the books and some of the handsomest pictures,
+but there are plenty left&mdash;Van Dycks, Rubens, etc., and
+the rooms and halls are splendid. There were lots of
+portraits of the Dukes and Duchesses, from the great
+Duke down, some curiously like the present Churchills,
+particularly the women. When we had finished
+sauntering through the house, we drove about the park
+looking for a shady place to lunch, and then established
+ourselves; the horses were taken out, the lunch basket
+opened, and we had a very good lunch on the top of the
+coach. We drove back through Woodstock and
+stopped for tea at Dashwood Park, one of the great
+places of the country. They gave us tea, with every
+variety of toast, cake, and bread that can be imagined,
+in a beautiful room as large as a church, opening
+on a stone terrace, and the most lovely (English)
+views of grass meadows and trees, stretching miles
+away. There were quantities of family portraits there,
+too, but we hadn't time to see them. We got home at
+7 o'clock, rather exhausted, but having had a lovely
+day.</p>
+
+<p>I began my letter this morning before breakfast and
+will finish it now. The children are off to the woods with
+the German tutor after primroses, but it is too warm
+for us&mdash;so we shall take a walk after tea. I am very
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_210" title="pg 210"> </a>
+fond of Hilda Deichmann. She is very clever&mdash;knows
+a great many things&mdash;draws well, paints well, is a good
+musician, and is womanly and practical. We fraternised
+from the first moment. We are going back to London
+to-morrow afternoon. Mimi's school begins on Tuesday,
+and I think he has had a good outing for the present.
+I haven't an idea what we shall do this winter.
+Perhaps when W. comes back he will have some plans.
+With this new Ministry, it is difficult to make any. I
+am so afraid of their proposing some beastly measure,
+like the exile of the Orl&eacute;ans Princes, or something of
+that kind to be popular before the election. The Wales'
+visit to Ireland seems to be progressing most delightfully
+and much more quietly than people thought. He has
+such wonderful charm of manner. I should think personal
+contact with him would always work wonders. I
+must stop now or my letter will not go this afternoon.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author">May 6, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>We had yesterday a typical London <em>Season</em> evening.
+We dined at Lady Vivian's&mdash;a large, handsome dinner,
+everybody rather in a hurry to get away, as there were
+two big parties; Lady Derby's in St. James's Place, and
+Lady Salisbury's in Arlington Street. We drove down
+Piccadilly with much difficulty, getting along very slowly
+in spite of our "white card," but finally did arrive at Lady
+Derby's. The staircase was a mass of people struggling
+to get in, an orchestra playing, and about 1,200 people
+in rooms that would hold comfortably about half. Of
+course on such occasions one doesn't talk. We spoke
+to our host and hostess, were carried on by the crowd,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_211" title="pg 211"> </a>
+made the tour of the rooms and got down again with
+much waiting and jostling, as there were two currents
+coming and going. However, we did finally get our carriage,
+and then with many stops and very slowly, got to
+Arlington Street, where apparently the same people were
+struggling on the staircase, the same orchestra playing,
+and just as big a crowd (I should think the whole Conservative
+party), for though the house is larger they had
+invited more people, so the result was practically the
+same. We did exactly the same thing, exchanged a few
+words with Lady Salisbury, made the tour, and came
+home. We were two hours performing these two receptions,
+but I suppose it was right to do it once. However,
+the English certainly enjoy the sight, and don't
+mind the waiting. Lady Jersey, who is a grandmother,
+told me this afternoon she had bored herself to death
+last night. "Why did you go?" I said, "you must know
+these big political parties by heart." "Oh, I like the
+parties," she said; "only I didn't get to either," and then
+she explained her evening. She started alone in her carriage
+at 10 o'clock for Lady Derby's, was kept waiting
+an interminable time in Piccadilly, and when she finally
+did reach Lady Derby's door, a friendly link-man advised
+her not to go in as everybody was coming away,
+and she would never get up the stairs, so she turned back
+and proceeded to Arlington Street. She had the same
+crowd, the same long wait, and when she arrived at Lady
+Salisbury's the party was over, and no one could possibly
+get in. It was then midnight, and she drove home, having
+passed her whole evening since 10 o'clock alone in
+her brougham in Piccadilly.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus242.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Salon of the French Embassy in London, 1891" id="illus242" title="The Salon of the French Embassy in London, 1891"> </a>
+
+<p class="center small">The Salon of the French Embassy in London, 1891</p></div>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_212" title="pg 212"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">May 9, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon we have had a conf&eacute;rence "sur Racine"
+in the big drawing-room. A good many people came
+and apparently listened, and I hope it may do the young
+lady good. Mlle. de B. wishes to get up classes of
+French literature for ladies, but I hardly think it will
+succeed here in the season; on a bright day no one will
+shut herself up in a smallish room to hear about Racine,
+Moli&egrave;re, etc. I was amused by one of our colleagues
+whom I invited. He refused promptly, "he really
+couldn't do that even for me. He hadn't thought about
+Racine since he left school, and hadn't felt it a blank in
+his life." Mlle. de B. did it very well; she sat on a little
+platform with a table in front of her, and all the swells in
+red and gilt arm-chairs facing her, and looking at her
+hard. She was a little nervous at first, but soon got over
+that, and her language was good and well chosen, she
+knew her subject perfectly, and spoke in a pretty clear
+voice. This was the invitation:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<h2>MADAME WADDINGTON</h2>
+
+<h3>SERA CHEZ ELLE</h3>
+
+<h4>le Samedi, 9 Mai, 2 &agrave; 4 heures,</h4>
+
+<p class="center"><em>Mlle. de Bury lira une &eacute;tude de critique litt&eacute;raire sur Racine, son
+milieu, et sa trag&eacute;die de B&eacute;r&eacute;nice.</em></p>
+
+
+<p>Do you think it would have tempted you? I am afraid
+Schuyler wouldn't have come.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_213" title="pg 213"> </a></p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+May, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>We are having most beautiful weather, Dear, and our
+morning rides are delightful. If only the Park was a
+little bigger. We always get a good gallop on the other
+side by the Marble Arch, but it is small, and one goes
+round and round. When I ride with W. we generally
+make three or four turns as fast as we can go, he hates
+to dawdle. When I ride with the military attach&eacute;, or
+some other friends, we do the Row, and amble up and
+down, talking to the people walking as well as the riders.
+The children always delight in scampering along on their
+ponies, and they certainly begin young. A friend of
+ours, who has a nice sturdy boy of about six, was wondering
+whether he should begin with his child on a narrow
+pony, thinking he was still rather young, so he consulted
+Lady P., a beautiful rider, and an authority on all
+matters connected with riding. "You mustn't begin too
+early with boys," she said; "one must be careful; I never
+put any boy of mine on a horse until he was two years
+old."</p>
+
+<p class="author">May 13th.</p>
+
+<p>To-day we have had a very long Drawing-room held
+by the Queen, which of course attracts everyone. She
+rarely stays more than an hour, just long enough to receive
+the Corps Diplomatique and the people who have
+the entr&eacute;e. The Queen looked very well, merely shook
+hands with me, but talked some little time to W., said
+she had enjoyed her stay at Aix-les-Bains so much, and
+that everything had been done to make her comfortable.
+I watched her while she was talking and I never saw
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_214" title="pg 214"> </a>
+a smile make such a difference in a face. Hers is quite
+beautiful and lights up her whole face. It was tiring
+to-day&mdash;unending. Lord R. told me there were 400
+presentations, and at the end said about 1,200 people
+had passed. They say the Queen is sometimes made sick
+by the quantity of people curtseying before her&mdash;the
+constant movement of the people bending down and rising
+has the same effect upon her as the waters of the
+sea. I can understand it.</p>
+
+<p>The long Drawing-room to-day was a god-send to
+Lady A.,&mdash;one of Lord C.'s daughters. She is a "d&eacute;butante,"
+had a very pretty new dress, and was much excited
+over her presentation, had started very early with
+her mother so as to see the Queen (who stays only a
+short hour). The early start and the long waiting in the
+row of carriages and also the ante-room, exhausted her
+absolutely. She was sick and faint; they did all they
+could, brought her brandy, put her near an open window&mdash;nothing
+did any good. She had to retire from the
+room, go downstairs, have her dress cut open (there was
+a knot in the lace and they couldn't unlace her bodice),
+and remained extended on a sofa in the hall&mdash;train, veil,
+feathers, all in a heap. After a rest of two hours, and a
+cup of tea (procured with great difficulty, as there is no
+buffet on these occasions) she felt better, and her mother
+hearing from a friend upstairs, who was "de service," that
+the Drawing-room was still going on, was most anxious
+that the girl should pass, so they arranged her veil, hair,
+and feathers as well as they could, tied the bodice of her
+dress, and filled in the intervals with some bits of tulle
+cut from her veil. She passed, and I don't believe anyone
+noticed anything wrong with her dress, and she was
+so thankful not to have to go through that long waiting
+again. It is a most fatiguing day for those who haven't
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_215" title="pg 215"> </a>
+the entr&eacute;e, as they must sit so long in their carriages in
+the file.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Hatfield</span>, May 30th.</p>
+
+<p>We came down yesterday to this most beautiful old
+place. A large Elizabethan castle, standing rather high,
+with courts and terraces in every direction. We found
+Lady Salisbury at her tea-table on the terrace with a
+lovely view of park and woods on all sides. Various
+members of the family and house-party sauntered up,
+some of the young ladies in their habits, having been
+riding; and some guests having walked up from the
+station, which is quite near at the end of the Park.
+After an hour's talk Lady Salisbury took me to my
+room (miles away through the long hall and up a
+great staircase), and told me dinner was "easy 8."
+The room is large, all panelled in oak which has become
+almost black with age, an enormous bed (they
+have always had their sheets made especially for these
+beds for more than 200 years, in Germany I think, as no
+ordinary sheets could cover more than half). The beds
+are very long and almost square. They would easily
+hold Brigham Young and all his wives. Do you remember
+the picture in Mark Twain? Mine was so high I had
+to take a footstool to clamber into it. W.'s room, next,
+about the same. We went downstairs at 8.10 and certainly
+didn't dine until after 8&frac12;. We were about 30 in
+the great dining-room, a splendid hall with portraits of
+Queen Elizabeth (one in fancy dress, most curious with
+bright red hair), Henry VIII, Mary Queen of Scots, etc.
+We played cards in the evening and broke up rather
+early. This morning Lady Salisbury showed me the
+house&mdash;most interesting, full of treasures and memories,
+a great library with all sorts of letters from the time of
+Elizabeth, and in the drawing-room a vitrine filled with
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_216" title="pg 216"> </a>
+relics of the "Virgin Queen." It was curious to see her
+gloves, shoes, hat. I think Lady Salisbury was somewhat
+surprised at my interest in these last things, but
+I told her she must make allowances for the American,
+who was not accustomed to old family traditions and
+souvenirs of that kind. When I think of our Revolution,
+then it seems ages ago to me. We enjoyed our visit
+extremely, they are all so nice and simple.</p>
+
+<p>We got back to London this morning and of course
+dined out somewhere. I was amused by one of the ladies
+saying to me after dinner, "Did you really enjoy your
+visit to Hatfield? Aren't they all <em>dreadfully</em> clever?" I
+don't think I should have applied the same adverb, but
+clever they certainly are. Lord Salisbury has such a
+fine, thoughtful face.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author">June, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>We went to Ascot this morning, a beautiful day, and
+the lawn like a flower garden with all the women in their
+light dresses dotted about. We lunched with the Prince
+and Princess of Wales. The Maharajah of Johore was
+there, and had brought down his own cook, attired in
+yellow satin with a large flat hat on his head. He made
+a sort of curry for his master, which everybody tasted&mdash;except
+me&mdash;I don't like culinary experiments, and I
+think the yellow satin garments didn't inspire me with
+confidence. I told Juteau when he came up for orders
+just now how far below the mark he was as to costume.</p>
+
+<p class="author">June 29th.</p>
+
+<p>I went this afternoon with Francis to Lord Aberdeen's,
+where they had a hay-making party. They have a pretty
+little cottage, or rather a small farm about an hour's
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_217" title="pg 217"> </a>
+drive from London. There were plenty of people, and
+all sorts of amusements for the children; Punch and
+Judy, lawn-tennis, and two tea-tables on the lawn.
+After tea they all rushed down a steep hill to a field
+where there were quantities of little heaps of hay, and
+harmless wooden pitchforks. They had a fine time rolling
+and tumbling about in the hay and making hay-stacks.
+Then a cow appeared on the scene, dressed
+with flowers and ribbons, and the maids made syllabub
+on the spot, which the children enjoyed immensely.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus250.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Lady Salisbury" id="illus250" title="Lady Salisbury"> </a>
+
+<p class="center small">Lady Salisbury</p></div>
+
+<p class="author">June 30th, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>We dined at Lady Molesworth's with the Duc d'Aumale,
+who is always charming, and makes everything
+easy, as there are always bothering little questions of
+official etiquette with non-reigning Princes. He is a
+fine type of the soldier-prince. It seems hard that a man
+of his intelligence and education shouldn't play a great
+part in his own country.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+July, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>We had the Court concert this evening. The Duc
+d'Aumale was there, looking so well and so royal. He
+is always charming to us, and we were very proud of our
+French Prince. H. came with us and enjoyed herself
+extremely. The entrance of the Court amused her very
+much, the two tall Chamberlains with their wands walking
+backwards. She says she never saw anything so
+pretty as the curtsey the Princess of Wales made to the
+assembled company as soon as she got into the room.
+What always appeals in some sort of way to our <em>irreverent</em>
+American minds is the singing of the "God Save the
+Queen," all the company, including Prince and Princess,
+rising and standing.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_218" title="pg 218"> </a></p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To J. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Chevening, Sevenoaks</span>,<br >
+Sunday, July 27, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>I will begin my letter here to-day, Dear Jan, from the
+Stanhopes' place, where we came last evening to spend
+Sunday. It was awfully hot yesterday. I almost died
+on the way from London down, fortunately it was only
+an hour. We are a party of 14&mdash;Lord and Lady John
+Manners, Lord Derby and his step-daughter, Lady Margaret
+Cecil, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Stanhope, Mr. and
+Mrs. Jeune, Lord Boston, a nice young fellow, and a Mr.
+Praed, a riding man, who has travelled everywhere. We
+had tea on the terrace overlooking a lovely garden and
+lake, and dined at 8. After dinner we sat on the terrace,
+and it was charming, a beautiful full moon, and not a
+breath of air. Friday we had the closing festivity of the
+season at Marlborough House. A beautiful ball it
+was, about 600 people, all the cr&egrave;me de la soci&eacute;t&eacute;
+and beautiful dresses and jewels. I wore my pink
+and green Moscow dress (my Russian garments have
+done me good service this year), and it was much
+admired. All the Battenberg family were there in
+great force, and I renewed acquaintance with the
+Prince of Bulgaria, whom I used to know. They
+had covered in a great part of the garden, and the room
+was beautifully arranged with the Prince's Indian carpets
+and arms. The supper room, also built out in the garden,
+was so pretty&mdash;a collection of small round tables for
+8 or 10 persons, with flowers and handsome silver.
+Prince Albert Victor took me in, and I had a young
+Battenberg next. Neither Phelps nor Harry White was
+there, on account of Grant's death, which I thought
+very nice of them. I danced once or twice after supper,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_219" title="pg 219"> </a>
+and we came away at 2. I hear they kept it up until 5,
+having begun at 11. There is a reception at Lady Salisbury's
+on Tuesday, which will be really the end of all
+things, and purely political, as all the swells go off to
+Goodwood Monday.</p>
+
+<p class="author">11.30.</p>
+
+<p>We have just come upstairs after a very hot day. I
+didn't go to church, as I knew I could not stand the heat,
+and talked a little and read very happily in the big drawing-room
+till luncheon. Lady Stanhope took me over
+the house, which is not very large, but interesting. There
+is a charming library full of books and manuscripts and
+letters, some from Lord Chesterfield to his son, written
+in French, and beginning "Mon cher ami, comment vont
+les gr&acirc;ces et les mani&egrave;res." After luncheon, we sat
+out under the lime trees, and after tea I made a little
+tourn&eacute;e with Lord Stanhope and prowled about the park,
+and went also to the church, where there are several
+interesting monuments. This evening we have been
+sitting again on the terrace, quite delicious. I in my
+white dress, with nothing on my shoulders.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+Tuesday, 28th.</p>
+
+<p>We got back yesterday at 2 o'clock and the weather
+has changed to-day. It was very hot all day yesterday.
+I spent the afternoon on my sofa until 6.30, when
+we went for a ride and met the few last people who
+are still here. Last night we discussed our summer
+plans, and I shall go over to France on Saturday
+with Francis, stay three or four days in Paris, and
+then go down to St. L&eacute;ger. It is curious how London
+is suddenly empty. There were not 5 carriages in the
+park yesterday. This morning I have been careering
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_220" title="pg 220"> </a>
+about the stable-yard trying a new habit. They are so
+difficult to make in these days, so tight that the least
+change of saddle makes them go every way but the right
+one. I don't know if I wrote after the Harwoods
+lunched with us. W. was much pleased with them and
+found them a most attractive family. The girls are
+charming, so pretty and simple. I must stop, as Holmes
+(the English butler) is waiting for me to tell him all
+sorts of final arrangements before we start.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+November 9, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>The young King of Spain is dead. The Ambassador,
+M. de Casa La Iglesia, was to have dined with us. He
+sent a note at 5.30 saying that he must give up the
+pleasure of dining with us for a "bien p&eacute;nible raison," but
+without saying what it was&mdash;so one of the secretaries
+went off "aux informations" and came back with the
+news that the King was dead. Poor young fellow, his
+reign was short.</p>
+
+<p class="author">December 5th.</p>
+
+<p>We had a service at the Spanish chapel in Manchester
+Square for the King of Spain. All the Diplomats and
+official world there. It was very long&mdash;all the ladies
+were in black&mdash;Comtesse Karolyi (Austrian Ambassadress)
+and Comtesse de Bylandt (wife of the Dutch Minister)
+in cr&ecirc;pe, long veils. They told me I was not at
+all correct, that a cr&ecirc;pe veil was "de rigueur" for
+crowned heads. I thought I was all right in black
+velvet, a tulle veil, and black gloves (in fact was rather
+pleased with my get-up), but the ladies were very stern.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_221" title="pg 221"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+December 15, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>I wish you were here this morning, Dear, as the Embassy
+is a curiosity&mdash;might just as well be in Kamtchatka
+as far as the outside world is concerned&mdash;for
+nothing exists beyond the walls of the house. When
+they drew back my curtains this morning I couldn't really
+think for a moment where I was. Adela&iuml;de had a lighted
+candle in her hand (it was 8.30 o'clock in the morning)
+and I thought my window panes had been painted a dirty
+yellow in the night. However it was only a yellow London
+fog; I could literally see nothing when I went to the
+window. It has lightened now a little, but we have had
+lamps for breakfast, and I am writing with my candles!
+The big shops opposite are all lighted, and one sees little
+glimmers of light through the fog. I can't see across
+the street. The fog gets into everything&mdash;was quite
+thick and perceptible in the hall when we went down to
+breakfast. The coachman has been in and said he
+couldn't take out his horses, not even with a link-boy
+running alongside, so let us hope it will brighten up a
+little in the course of the afternoon.</p>
+
+<p class="author">December 16th.</p>
+
+<p>The fog did lift about 4; but the day was trying and
+the traces most evident the next day, as everything in
+the house was filthy&mdash;all the silver candlesticks and little
+silver ornaments that are on the tables; the white curtains&mdash;in
+fact everything one touched. I should think
+laundresses would make their fortune in London. My
+maid came to my room about 3 o'clock, just as I was
+going out, with her apron really black with smuts. I
+said, "What in the world have you been doing, cleaning
+the chimneys?" "Non, Madame, je n'ai fait que travailler
+chez Madame et dans la lingerie; j'ai voulu montrer mon
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_222" title="pg 222"> </a>
+tablier &agrave; Madame, c'est le troisi&egrave;me que je mets depuis
+ce matin...!"</p>
+
+<p class="author">December 17, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday I made an excursion to the city with Hilda
+Deichmann and her husband to buy things for our Christmas
+trees. It was most amusing ransacking in all the
+big wholesale houses, and reminded me of my childish
+days and similar expeditions to Maiden Lane. There
+is so much always in England that recalls early days. I
+think it is not only the language, but the education
+and way of living are the same. We have read the same
+books and sung the same hymns, and understand things
+in the same way. Our shopping was most successful.
+All the prettiest things come from the German shops.
+The ginger-bread animals were wonderful,&mdash;some horses
+and dogs with gilt tails and ears most effective. The
+decorations were really very pretty&mdash;the stars and angels
+quite charming. When we had finished our shopping
+Deichmann took us to Pym's, a celebrated oyster cellar,
+to lunch. A funny little place well known to all City
+people. We had a capital lunch&mdash;all oysters.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon we have been playing, 8 hands, two
+pianos, which was interesting. Two of our colleagues,
+Princess Ghika, Roumanian Legation, and Countess de
+Bylandt, Dutch, are excellent musicians. They lead, and
+Hilda and I follow as well as we can. I am the least
+good, but I manage to get along, and of course whenever
+I know the music my ear helps me. We have two
+fine &Eacute;rard grand pianos in the drawing-room, which is
+large, and fairly light for London. I was much tempted
+by a beautiful Steinway piano, but thought it right at the
+French Embassy to have &Eacute;rards, which are of course fine
+instruments. I fancy Steinway is more brilliant, but I
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_223" title="pg 223"> </a>
+think we make noise enough, particularly when we are
+playing Wagner&mdash;the <em>Kaiser March</em> for instance.</p>
+
+<p class="author">December 23d.</p>
+
+<p>It was not very cold this morning, so I tried the
+new horse, and he went very well. I have had a thick
+hunting habit made, and was quite comfortable, except
+the hands, which were cold at starting. I fussed all day
+over the Christmas tree which we are to have on the
+26th, and this evening we had a small farewell dinner for
+Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, who is going away to
+Vienna. I am very sorry, as he is a good colleague and an
+easy and charming talker. He sat a long time with me
+the other day talking over his Paris experiences and the
+brilliant days of the Empire&mdash;Tuileries, Compi&egrave;gne, etc.
+It was most interesting and new to me, as I only know
+Paris since the war (1870) and have never seen either
+Emperor or Empress. I suppose I never shall see her,
+as she never comes to London, and lives a very secluded
+life at Farnborough with a small household, and some
+Paris friends who come sometimes, not very often, to
+see her. What a tragic "fin de vie" hers is, having had
+everything and lost everything. We had also the Russian
+and Spanish Ambassadors&mdash;Staal charming, clever,
+easy, simple&mdash;"simpatico," the only word I know in any
+language which expresses exactly that combination of
+qualities. Casa La Iglesia, the Spaniard, is a tall, handsome,
+attractive-looking man. He made havoc in the
+various posts he has occupied, and when we want to
+tease him we ask him about his departure from Berlin,
+and all the "femmes affol&eacute;es" who were at the station
+to see the last of him. Henrietta and Anne have arrived
+for Christmas, laden of course with presents and souvenirs
+for everybody, and Francis is quite happy with
+his aunts.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_224" title="pg 224"> </a></p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate, London</span>,<br >
+December 24, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>The sisters and I have been shopping all day getting
+the last things for the tree, which is to be on the 26th.
+The streets are most animated, full of people, all carrying
+parcels, and all with smiling faces. The big toy-shops
+and confectioners crowded. "Buzzard," the great shop
+in Oxford Street, most amusing; hundreds of Christmas
+cakes of all sizes. There are plum cakes frosted with
+sugar icing, the date generally in red letters and a sprig
+of ivy or evergreen stuck in at the top. We had ordered
+a large one, and they were much pleased to do it for the
+French Embassy, and wanted to make the letters in "tri-color,"
+red, white, and blue. We wound up at the
+Army and Navy Stores, and really had some difficulty
+in getting in. They had quantities of Christmas trees
+already decorated, which were being sold as fast as they
+were brought in.</p>
+
+<p>There were splendid turkeys, enormous; and curiously
+enough they told us many of them came from France,
+from a well-known turkey farm in the Loiret. I must
+ask the S&eacute;gurs, who live in that part of the country, if
+they know the place. There were quantities of plum-puddings
+of all sizes and prices, and it must be a very
+poor household that doesn't have its plum-pudding to-morrow.
+We were glad to get back to tea and hot buttered
+toast&mdash;a thoroughly English institution. I would
+like some of my French servants to learn how to make it,
+but I don't suppose they will. In fact I don't know
+exactly who makes it here&mdash;I am quite sure neither
+Juteau nor his "gar&ccedil;on de cuisine" would condescend to
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_225" title="pg 225"> </a>
+do anything so simple. I suppose it isn't the "odd man"
+who seems to do all the things that no one else will, but
+I sha'n't inquire as long as it appears.</p>
+
+<p>We had a quiet evening&mdash;talked a little politics while
+W. was smoking. Henrietta always sees a great many
+people of all kinds, and tells him various little things
+that don't come to him in his official despatches. The
+house is comfortable enough, though there is no calorif&egrave;re,
+and it is a corner house. There are enormous
+coal fires everywhere, except in my bedroom and dressing-room,
+where I always burn wood&mdash;and such wood&mdash;little
+square pieces like children's blocks.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Christmas Day.</p>
+
+<p>It was dark and foggy this morning, we could hardly
+see the trees opposite, and the lamps are lighted in the
+house and the streets. Francis was enchanted with his
+presents. I think the billiard-table from Paris and the
+big boat ("aussi grand que Monsieur Toutain"&mdash;one of
+our Secretaries) were what pleased him most. There is a
+sort of sailing match every Sunday morning on the Serpentine.
+Some really beautiful boats (models) full-rigged,
+and it is a pretty sight to see them all start a
+miniature yacht race across the river. Francis always
+goes with Clarisse, and Yves, his own little Breton footman,
+carries his boat, which is much bigger than he is,
+also Boniface, a wise little fox-terrier who knows all
+about it, and gallops around the top of the lake to meet
+his master's boat on the other side. They have also one
+of the Park keepers and a gigantic policeman, who is always
+on duty at Albert Gate, to look after them. Not a
+useless precaution, as the boat often gets entangled in
+the reeds, and <em>has</em> been known to go to the bottom of
+the lake, and Boniface always gets lost and is brought
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_226" title="pg 226"> </a>
+back by a policeman or a soldier, or a friend&mdash;Hilda
+Deichmann brought him back one day.</p>
+
+<p>We had a cheerful Christmas dinner&mdash;all our personnel&mdash;M.
+Blanchard de Forges, Consul General, and Villiers,
+the correspondent of the "D&eacute;bats" in London. We
+did a little music after dinner. I tried for some Christmas
+carols "We Three Kings of Orient Are" (do you
+remember that at Oyster Bay? how long ago it seems),
+but the English-speaking element was not strong
+enough. We danced a little, winding up with a sort of
+Scotch reel&mdash;Henrietta, Waru (our Military Attach&eacute;),
+and Petiteville being the chief performers.</p>
+
+<p class="author">December 26th.</p>
+
+<p>We are all rather exhausted after the Christmas tree;
+however, the children were quite pleased, and the tree
+really very pretty. A gigantic pine, reaching to the top
+of the ceiling in the ballroom, a star on the top and very
+well lighted. We had 34 children of all ages and nationalities,
+from Nadine Karolyi, aged 18, daughter of
+Count Karolyi, Austrian Ambassador and Doyen of the
+Corps Diplomatique, to Florence Williams' baby girl
+of 16 months. The little ones were sweet, speechless at
+first, with round eyes fixed on the tree, and then little
+fat arms stretched out for something. The children's
+tea-table looked pretty, arranged with coloured candles
+and holly, and an enormous Christmas cake in the middle
+with a wreath of holly around it. Nadine Karolyi cut
+the first slice of cake, as daughter of the Doyen she sat on
+Francis's right hand, and Thekla Staal, daughter of the
+Russian Ambassador, on his left. W. was much amused
+at the correct placing of the young ladies. We start to-morrow
+for Knowsley and Luton Hoo, and the packing
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_227" title="pg 227"> </a>
+is quite an affair. I take 10 dresses, besides jackets, hats,
+etc. I must have short costumes to follow the battues
+for fine and bad weather&mdash;a swell day dress, as we are to
+lunch at Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place near Knowsley;
+and two ball dresses, as there is to be a county ball for
+all the neighbourhood at Luton, New Year's night, and
+a small dance with a cotillon (which is unusual in England)
+the next night. Adela&iuml;de is rather fatigued, as besides
+my trunk she has to finish off her toilettes, and she
+has just come in to ask me if she shall take the regulation
+black silk, or a blue silk, which is more dressy; as they
+tell her the <em>ladies</em> in the housekeeper's room are very
+dressy at Luton. I said the blue silk by all means&mdash;she
+must be up to the mark. The fog has kept up pretty
+well all day. I hope it will clear to-morrow, we are
+going straight into the coal country. Knowsley is near
+Liverpool, and I fancy it is always dark there.</p>
+
+<p>I was telling Nigra the other day about our first Roman
+Christmas and what an impression it made upon us.
+Such a splendid winter, always a bright blue sky, and
+roses straggling over all the old grey walls. The
+Pifferari singing to the Madonnas at all the street corners,
+the midnight Mass and mysterious Pastorale in St.
+Peter's at early dawn with the tapers trembling on the
+high altar so far away; and the grand Christmas ceremony
+at St. Peter's, with all the magnificent pomp of the
+Catholic Church in Rome. We talked on for some
+time about "Roma com' era," which of course he doesn't
+regret, and I told him of our last night in Rome, when we
+all went "en bande" to drink at the Fountain of Trevi
+(which is supposed to act as a charm and to bring people
+back to Rome). I remember quite well how tearful I
+was when we left. I didn't think then that life was worth
+living out of the shadow of St. Peter's, and think so a
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_228" title="pg 228"> </a>
+little still even now, though my lines have lain in very
+different places.</p>
+
+<p>We leave Francis in the sisters' charge, with the joys
+of a pantomime before him.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Knowsley</span>,<br >
+December 29, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived here late yesterday afternoon. It is a long,
+uninteresting journey (almost to Liverpool), was cold
+and foggy all the way down, and we found snow when
+we arrived in the Park&mdash;also a perfect gale of wind, the
+enormous bare, black winter trees swaying like poplars.
+The large house, with all the fa&ccedil;ade brightly lighted,
+gave us at once a cheerful welcome. Lady Derby was
+waiting for us in the long, low drawing-room with tea,
+and we went up almost immediately to dress for dinner.
+We had sent the servants by an earlier train, which was
+convenient, as they had time to unpack and have everything
+ready for us. We have a charming apartment&mdash;a
+very good-sized salon, with bedrooms large and comfortable
+on each side. The salon furnished in a bright chintz,
+and good pictures, mostly family portraits, on the walls.
+There were blazing fires everywhere&mdash;these enormous
+rocks of Liverpool coal one sees here. I instantly proceeded
+to demolish mine in my bedroom. Adela&iuml;de had
+already tried to make the housemaid understand that her
+lady didn't like warm rooms, but the other one pointed
+to the snow under the windows, and heaped on her pieces
+of coal.</p>
+
+<p>Dinner was at 8 <em>punctually</em> (which was a contrast to
+Hatfield, where we had been staying the other day.
+There dinner was easily half past eight, and after we had
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_229" title="pg 229"> </a>
+been at table some little time various friends and members
+of the family appeared, and slid quietly into their
+places at the end of the very long table). There is a
+large family party here and some other guests, including
+the two historians, Froude and Lecky, both most interesting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus264.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Knowsley Hal" id="illus264" title="Knowsley Hal"> </a>
+
+<p class="center small">Knowsley Hall<br >
+The Earl of Derby's place at Prescot Lancashire</p></div>
+
+
+<p>We dined in a fine hall with family portraits of all the
+Derbys, from the first one at Bosworth down to the present
+Earl, who is the 16th Earl of Derby. There was
+beautiful plate on the table&mdash;fine racing cups&mdash;as the
+Stanleys were always quite as much racing men as statesmen.
+These are such curious things in England, the
+love of sport is so strong. Fancy any of our statesmen,
+Thiers, Guizot, Dufaure, etc., with racing stables. Lord
+Derby is very easy and rather inclined to chaff Americans
+a little, but I didn't mind. The evening was short after
+we adjourned to the drawing-room. Lady Derby is
+rather delicate, and is suffering just now from a bad eye.
+I sat some time in my comfortable room upstairs, but was
+glad to get to bed early after the cold journey. W.
+went off to the fumoir, and had a most interesting talk
+over Ireland and Irish questions with Mr. Lecky. This
+morning was awful; snow, sleet, and a cold rain&mdash;however,
+the sportsmen were not to be deterred by any such
+mild obstacle, and started at 9.30 in a big break with four
+horses. I watched the departure from my window, and
+was very glad I was not going to make any such expedition.
+I had my breakfast upstairs, and had an amusing
+explanation with the housemaid who appeared at 9.30
+with an enormous tray and breakfast enough for a family&mdash;tea,
+beefsteaks, cold partridges, eggs, rolls, toast, potatoes,
+buns and fruit&mdash;you never saw such a meal. She
+couldn't believe that I only wanted tea and toast and an
+egg (which was an extra, but as I knew we should only
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_230" title="pg 230"> </a>
+lunch at two, and I am accustomed to have my d&eacute;jeuner
+&agrave; la fourchette at 12, I was sure I should be hungry if I
+didn't take something), and asked me most respectfully
+if I was not well, and would like something else&mdash;"a little
+soup perhaps."</p>
+
+<p>I went downstairs about 12 and found the ladies in the
+drawing-room all complaining of the cold. Lady Derby
+took me over the house&mdash;it has not the beautiful proportions
+of Hatfield&mdash;is long, low, and rambling, but most
+comfortable. The library is a fine room with deep window
+recesses, and most comfortable with a bright fire
+burning. The librarian was there and showed us some
+of his treasures, among them an old copy of the "Roman
+de la Rose," and various old manuscripts. We went on
+to the dining-room, and Lady Derby explained the family
+portraits to me. The long, unbroken line of Earls of
+Derby is most interesting, and the change in the portraits
+for the two or three generations where the French blood
+shows itself, most curious. The wife of the Earl of
+Derby who died on the scaffold, giving his life for his
+King, was the famous Charlotte de la Tr&eacute;mouille, who
+defended her castle&mdash;Lathom House&mdash;so gallantly
+against Fairfax and his Roundheads. Do you remember
+one of our school-room books in America, "Heroines of
+History," where there was a description of the siege of
+Lathom House, and a picture of the Countess of Derby
+standing on the ramparts in a riding habit and hat and
+feathers and apparently loading a cannon herself and
+showing a gunner how to point it?</p>
+
+<p>The portraits are most interesting; first the regular
+Saxon type, then the French streak, pale oval faces, and
+dark eyes and hair (not unlike the Stuarts, who have
+always a foreign look); then the true British, more and
+more accentuated down to the present Earl. They have
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_231" title="pg 231"> </a>
+also in one of the halls the block on which the Lord
+Derby knelt who was beheaded in 1631.</p>
+
+<p>The sportsmen arrived about tea-time, apparently
+neither cold nor tired, and having had a fine shoot.</p>
+
+<p class="author">New Year's Day, 1886.</p>
+
+<p>We are leaving this afternoon for Luton, Mme. de
+Falbe's place, where there is a ball and cotillon to-night.
+We were to go and join the shooters yesterday, but it
+was rainy and cold, and the ladies didn't care to go out.
+The talk at luncheon was pleasant; Froude is brilliant and
+easy. His American experiences and stories were amusing,
+but I told him he mustn't take the very eccentric
+ladies and gentlemen whom he had encountered as specimens
+of Americans. I didn't know any such people, that
+really most of us were quite quiet and ordinary, and like
+everybody else. Lord Derby rather urged him on, and
+was amused at our perfectly amicable discussion. We
+drove over to Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place, after lunch.
+The park is fine and they have capital shooting. Our
+evening was quiet, and we broke up early, as they always
+have a midnight service in the chapel on New Year's eve
+for the family and servants and any of the guests who
+like to attend. We left the drawing-room at 10.30, so
+that the servants might put out the lights, finish their
+work, etc., and also to have time to get out of our low
+dresses and jewels. A little before 12 Lady Margaret
+Cecil (Lady Derby's daughter by her first husband, Lord
+Salisbury) came for us and we went to the chapel. I
+had put on a dark cloth dress and jacket, nothing on my
+head. The chapel was full, all the servants (including
+my French maid) and household. Lady Margaret, looking
+like a saint in her plain black dress, and beautiful earnest
+expression, sat at the little organ, and everybody,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_232" title="pg 232"> </a>
+gardeners, keepers, coachmen, cooks, housemaids, joined
+in the singing. It was very solemn and impressive. At
+the end of the service we all went out first, and then Lady
+Margaret and her brother Lord Lionel stood at the head
+of the stairs and shook hands with all the guests, and all
+the servants, wishing all a "Happy New Year." It was
+a nice beginning of the New Year. Lord Derby hopes
+our next one will be also in England and at Knowsley,
+but everything is so uncertain, and of such short duration
+in our country (especially Cabinets) that we can
+hardly look forward a year.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Luton</span>,<br >
+January 3, 1886.</p>
+
+<p>Our journey yesterday from Knowsley was not very
+long, and some of the country all about Matlock, in
+Derbyshire, quite wild and lovely. Our host here is M.
+de Falbe, Danish Minister, who married Mrs. Leigh,
+owner of this charming place. We found the house
+party, mostly young, assembled in the morning-room
+with tea, the ladies all, as usual, in very dressy tea-gowns.
+I can't quite get used to that fashion, though
+I see it is very practical in the country at this season.
+Everyone goes out (in all weathers generally) from
+luncheon till tea-time, and of course one must get out of
+short skirts and muddy boots before coming down to the
+drawing-room. We went up early to dress, as Mme. de
+Falbe wanted to dine precisely at 8, on account of the
+ball afterwards. The house is large, with endless corners
+and corridors, fine drawing-rooms, library, and a large
+chapel with a fine organ. The dinner was handsome and
+very well arranged, five round tables, and quantities of
+silver, flowers, servants, etc. About 10.30 the company
+began to arrive, many county neighbours, Salisburys,
+Lyttons, Caledons, etc., bringing their house parties with
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_233" title="pg 233"> </a>
+them. We had a very pretty cotillon. At the end the
+children's pony came in carrying two big baskets filled
+with presents. The poor little thing was very gentle,
+but was evidently afraid of slipping on the parquet floor.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus270.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Late Earl of Derby" id="illus270" title="The Late Earl of Derby"> </a>
+
+<p class="center small">The Late Earl of Derby<br >
+From a photograph by Franz Baum, London</p></div>
+
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, 3d.</p>
+
+<p>To-day has been charming; first the service in the
+house chapel, very good organ music&mdash;Mme. de Falbe is
+musical and arranges everything. After breakfast they
+organized a paper hunt for the "jeunesse" in the park,
+and the older people walked about. The rendezvous
+was the dairy&mdash;a model one, quite delightful with tiles,
+and creepers running along the walls and peeping everywhere
+in at the windows. One by one the young
+people assembled, flushed and exhausted with running,
+and all clamouring for tea. Comte Jacques de Pourtal&egrave;s
+(one of our Secretaries), a young officer of the
+Blues, and Forbes, Mme. de Falbe's son-in-law, were
+the hares and got in some time before the hounds.
+After tea Falbe took me over to the stables, where there
+were plenty of horses, and also to the "vacherie," which
+was perfect. They have 40 small Alderney cows, all the
+same breed and colour, pretty little beasts, and so wonderfully
+clean, kept like pet dogs.</p>
+
+<p>The dinner and evening was most lively, choruses, banjos
+(which is a favourite instrument in English houses),
+and every kind of game, including musical chairs&mdash;M. de
+Falbe at the piano. I think everyone played except the
+Falbes and ourselves. W. and Falbe retired afterwards
+to the smoking-room, and were deep in foreign politics.
+Falbe is a perfect type of the diplomatist, tall, good-looking,
+and a charming, courteous manner. We ladies went
+off about 11, and an hour later we heard the most unearthly
+noises in the house. All the men parading the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_234" title="pg 234"> </a>
+corridors with banjos, bells, gongs, etc., and singing (if
+singing it can be called) at the top of their voices. They
+stopped at every door to serenade. The party breaks
+up to-morrow, and we all go back to London.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+Sunday, January 17, 1886.</p>
+
+<p>We had a musical dinner last night for Miss Griswold
+and Albanesi, and they sang and played all the evening.
+Albanesi has a charming, delicate touch, and plays with
+all the Italian brio. He told me&mdash;what surprised me&mdash;that
+he was always frightfully nervous when playing in
+public, and much preoccupied with the "composition de
+la salle"&mdash;if he saw one or two unsympathetic faces he
+had at once a disagreeable sensation! Gertrude Griswold
+has always the same lovely voice with a beautiful
+clear ring in it, and sings most artistically.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we have been to church at St. Paul's.
+It is a fine service, a splendid organ, and very good well-trained
+choir&mdash;but not at all solemn. I felt as if I was
+in one of the great Catholic cathedrals in Italy. People
+were coming and going all the time, and walking about
+the church. It is so enormous that it is quite a walk from
+the big doors to the small (comparatively) enclosed space
+where the congregation assembles.</p>
+
+<p>I have been at home all the afternoon receiving&mdash;men
+only, which is a regular London custom. Adams came in
+at tea-time. He and W. always like to have a good talk
+over old times. They were at school and college together,
+and Adams, when he was Charg&eacute; d'Affaires at
+the British Embassy, used to have all sorts of questions
+to treat with W., who was then Ministre des Affaires
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_235" title="pg 235"> </a>
+&Eacute;trangeres in Paris. They always began their conversations
+in French, and then fell into English, which of
+course they had always spoken together.</p>
+
+<p>To-night we have a small dinner for Rustem Pacha,
+and I have asked one or two people in the evening. I
+should like to be at home always on Sunday night, as we
+did in the Champs &Eacute;lys&eacute;es, but they tell me no English
+will come. Many of them don't go out on Sunday night,
+and don't take their horses out, and give servants a rest.
+I asked Lady A., who is very mondaine, if she would
+come to dinner to meet a few colleagues, and she said&mdash;"Dear
+Mme. Waddington, let me come another night;
+I never take out my carriage and servants on Sunday."</p>
+
+<p>Jean Gordon Gumming is very much exercised over
+what she calls my French ways, and constantly tells me
+people don't do such and such things in England; but I
+always tell her the French Embassy is <em>not</em> England; however,
+she is rather worried over me, and finds me un-English
+(which is not surprising) and unconventional,
+which is also not surprising, considering my nationality.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author">January 21, 1886.</p>
+
+<p>We have had a great function to-day, the Queen
+opened Parliament. We all went in gala, Countess D'A.
+and P. with us, the men in uniform, I in red satin, low,
+with diamonds and feathers. The road was lined with
+policemen and mounted soldiers in lieu of infantry, as
+there would have been with us. As we passed through
+the Horse-Guards the trumpeters saluted. We went at
+once into the great hall of the Lords', which was a fine
+sight. All the peers were there in their scarlet robes
+trimmed with white fur, and the women in low dresses,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_236" title="pg 236"> </a>
+diamonds, and feathers (feathers play a great part in all
+English toilettes). The Judges also were in full dress,
+with wigs and gowns. About 1.30 the Princes began to
+arrive, Prince of Wales, Dukes of Edinburgh, Connaught,
+and Cambridge all also in scarlet robes with
+bands of ermine and gold, and the collar of the Garter.
+We sat close to the Throne (Countess Karolyi didn't
+come, so I was Doyenne), then Madame de Staal and the
+Duchesses Bedford, Hamilton, Sutherland, and others.
+The Prince of Wales stood next to me some time, presenting
+the Duke of Connaught, whom I had not seen,
+and talked pleasantly enough, explaining various things
+to me; also said he was rather shy at taking his seat on
+the raised platform until the last moment. He had an
+arm-chair on the right of the Throne. I asked him for
+whom the other arm-chair was and he said it was his
+father's, had never been used since his death, and showed
+me the Saxon arms on it. The three brothers, Wales,
+Edinburgh, and Connaught, remained standing together.
+The other Princes, Christian, Duke of Teck, and Henry
+of Battenberg, were opposite to us; Battenberg, who
+has a slight, stylish figure, looking handsome in British
+Volunteer Uniform (dark green) with the collar of the
+Garter. Teck looks badly, older and thinner. He must
+have been a very handsome man (which, by the way, he
+tells one frequently). When Prince Alexander of Battenberg
+was at one of the Court balls everyone was talking
+about him and saying what a magnificent man he was.
+Teck, who was dancing a quadrille with me, was much
+put out, and said to me, "Do you really find Battenberg
+so very handsome? It is a pity you didn't know me
+when I was his age; I was much handsomer," and appealed
+to Count D., Austrian Ambassador, an old friend
+and "compagnon d'armes," to support his statement,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_237" title="pg 237"> </a>
+which I must say he did most warmly, and one can quite
+see it.</p>
+
+<p>All the Ambassadors and men of the Corps Diplomatique
+faced us&mdash;the English women were upstairs.
+About 2.30 (we had been there since 1.30) we heard a
+trumpet call, and all the company stood up. We women
+dropped our cloaks, and the Prince took his place standing
+on the dais. Presently appeared the Garter King-at-Arms
+and various officers of the household. The Duke
+of Portland stood on the right of the Throne holding a
+Royal crown on a cushion. Lord Salisbury (Premier)
+carried a large sword with a double handle, and then
+came the Queen followed by Princess Beatrice and
+Princes Eddie and George of Wales. The Queen was
+dressed in black satin with a long train, lined and trimmed
+with ermine, quantities of diamonds on her neck and corsage,
+the blue ribbon of the Garter, and a regular closed
+crown of diamonds, and white veil. As she came in the
+Prince of Wales advanced, touched the ground with one
+knee, kissed her hand, and led her to the Throne. He
+did his part most easily and gracefully, and didn't look at
+all shy. The Queen's train was carried by Sir Henry
+Ponsonby and two pages in red and gold. Princess
+Beatrice and the Duchess of Buccleuch (Mistress of the
+Robes) stood behind the Queen on her right, Princes
+Eddie and George on her left, Lord Salisbury, Halsbury,
+Lathom, and some others were also on the dais. As
+soon as the Queen was settled on her Throne she bowed
+to us all right and left. We made deep curtseys, and
+then she made a sign that we were to sit down. There
+was a few moments' silence while they went to summon
+the Commons. Then one heard a noise of scrambling
+and racing in the corridors&mdash;and they appeared; the
+Speaker, looking very well in his wig and gown, came
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_238" title="pg 238"> </a>
+first, fairly shot into the hall like a bomb by the impatient
+crowd behind him. Then the Lord Chancellor, asking
+the Queen's permission, read her speech in a clear,
+distinct voice, so that one heard every word. It was very
+short, and as soon as it was over the Queen went away
+with the same ceremony as when she came. When she
+got to the foot of the dais she made a very pretty half
+curtsey. The Princes left directly afterwards&mdash;we too.
+The crowd in the street was tremendous, everyone always
+is anxious to see the Queen, and much excited over the
+cream-coloured Hanoverian horses which she uses when
+she goes anywhere in semi-state. As they only go out
+very seldom it is rather a responsibility for the Master
+of the Horse to see that they are perfectly quiet.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Windsor</span>, March 8, 1886.</p>
+
+<p>We are at Windsor for the second time to dine and
+sleep, and we are "Doyens" now, so have a sweller apartment
+in one of the towers&mdash;the walls so thick that they
+make splendid deep window recesses (and a piano). We
+had asked an audience of Princess Beatrice, who received
+us before dinner about 7. I wore my brown velvet in
+which I had come down, and we found her in a small
+salon with a piano and pretty pictures and bibelots about.
+She was in an ordinary red costume, and was rather cold
+and shy at first, but thawed when Battenberg appeared.
+He has a delightful easy way, that sort of charm that
+so many Poles have. The party was a small one&mdash;no
+other diplomats but Mr. and Mrs. Phelps, both charming,
+and some English. The ceremony was quite the same
+as before. The Queen came about nine and went alone
+into the dining-room, and had her two sons-in-law,
+Christian and Battenberg, on each side. W. took in
+Princess Beatrice, and Mr. Phelps me, so I was quite
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_239" title="pg 239"> </a>
+happy. The Queen spoke little, in German, principally,
+to her neighbours, the English scarcely at all, and almost
+in whispers. I don't know what would happen to me if
+I dined often at court, I couldn't sit at table for an hour
+without talking to someone. Mr. P. says American
+women are not made for courts and convenances. They
+lose all their charm if they are not natural, and I think
+he is right. The cercle lasted about an hour. The Queen
+and I talked music. She regrets M&uuml;nster, who is going
+to Paris.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, March 9.</p>
+
+<p>We were asked this morning if we would like to drive
+to the Mausoleum before we went back to town, which
+we accepted of course. W. and I went in an open
+carriage, a pair of horses and postillion, and Lord Thurlow,
+Lord in Waiting, with us. In the next came Mr.
+and Mrs. Phelps with Mrs. F., Lady in Waiting. We
+drove down the "long walk" to the Mausoleum, which is
+not very far from the Castle. It is a handsome building
+with a fine marble floor like some of the old Italian
+chapels. The tomb of the Prince Consort is very fine,
+with a recumbent marble statue and a place beside it
+for the Queen when her turn comes. There is a pretty
+monument "In Memoriam" to Princess Alice (of Hesse)
+with her child in her arms, and a tablet to the memory
+of John Brown as "a grateful tribute from Queen Victoria
+to the faithful servant and friend of 34 years." We
+then drove to Frogmore and saw the farm, basse-cour,
+dairy, etc., and took the 12.30 train back to London.
+This evening we have had a handsome dinner and reception
+at the Russian Embassy; the whole house open, band
+playing, and all London there. The Duchess of Edinburgh
+dined. Corti made his first appearance in the
+"grand monde" as Ambassador. He is much pleased to
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_240" title="pg 240"> </a>
+be in London. I don't know if he and W. will be very
+cordial colleagues, as Corti decidedly resented W.'s attitude
+in the Berlin Congress.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To J. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Clieveden, Maidenhead</span>,<br >
+Sunday, March 29, 1886.</p>
+
+<p>I will begin my letter this evening, Dear Jan, in this
+most lovely place of the Duke of Westminster's which
+Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassador, always hires, until
+after Easter, as his wife hates to spend the winter in town.
+We came down yesterday afternoon with one of their
+secretaries, a nice young fellow. We found the Karolyis
+alone in a charming library filled with books in all
+languages, and with the most enchanting view of the
+Thames&mdash;quite like the view from Richmond Terrace,
+if you remember it. They gave us tea&mdash;and about 7 we
+went up to our rooms. Mine is the one the Duchess always
+has, and W. has the dressing-room next, a large
+room, all hung with rose-coloured silk, faded into yellow
+now, an enormous bed with yellow silk curtains and
+counterpane, a bath-room with marble bath opening out
+of a little passage, quite complete, and always the same
+divine view. The rooms are filled with pictures, souvenirs
+of all the Sutherlands (whose place it was originally),
+Westminsters, and all the English Royal family
+of all ages. At 8 a gong sounded and we went down
+to the library (where they live entirely), and found them
+there with the addition of Count Victor Karolyi, a
+cousin. The dinner was good, 4 servants, their chasseurs,
+in Hungarian uniform, 2 in black and one in
+plain livery. After dinner the 2 Karolyi men sat
+down to cards, W. and the young man talked, also
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_241" title="pg 241"> </a>
+Mme. K. and I&mdash;and all the men smoked. It was
+easy enough, as everyone talked a great deal. We
+broke up at 11. This morning we had breakfast at 10,
+and afterwards Mme. K. showed me the house, which is
+very handsome, one large, beautiful drawing-room opening
+on the terrace and river view. They live only in the
+library, as the rest is so enormous to light and heat. At
+12 M. and Mme. de Staal, the Russian Ambassador and
+his wife, arrived, and we went for a stroll in the grounds.
+Went out again after lunch for a long walk down by the
+river in short skirts and thick boots, as it was very damp&mdash;almost
+always is on the banks, generally low, of the
+Thames. It looked very pretty and gay, quite a number
+of boats and some people we all knew, staying in one of
+the houses near, got out of their boats and walked along
+with us. We came in for tea at 5.30, and after that
+adjourned to our respective rooms till dinner. The
+evening was pleasant, as we were more numerous and
+Staal talks a great deal. Now I am going to bed, as it
+is 11 o'clock, and we breakfast at a quarter to ten to-morrow,
+and get back to London at 11.30.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus280.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Countess Fanny Karolyi 1888 the Austrian Ambassadress" id="illus280" title="The Countess Fanny Karolyi 1888 the Austrian Ambassadress"> </a>
+
+<p class="center small">The Countess Fanny Karolyi 1888 the Austrian Ambassadress
+From a photograph by Walery London</p></div>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, Monday, 30th.</p>
+
+<p>We got back this morning at 1 for lunch, and have
+been in a wild state ever since with the bad news from
+Tonkin and the defeat of our troops. The Ministry is
+out, and Heaven knows what will happen. W. is as blue
+as indigo over the news, as he had been very cocky over
+Tonkin, as compared with the English blunders in the
+Soudan. Already there are despatches in the clubs here,
+saying W. has been asked to take the Foreign Office.
+Of course he hasn't been asked, and I hope he won't
+be, for I should hate to begin that official life in Paris
+again, and I am very happy here now&mdash;however, one
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_242" title="pg 242"> </a>
+never knows in political life. Do you know anything
+about Phelps? W. is very anxious to have your
+opinion. He says you ought to know about a Vermont
+man. He will have a difficult "succession." Mr. Lowell
+is much liked and admired.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,
+April 10, 1886.</p>
+
+<p>We have had a pleasant morning luncheon at Roll's
+Court with Lord Esher, who showed us a quantity of
+most interesting old manuscripts. A letter from "Bloody
+Mary" to Cardinal Pole announcing her "grossesse" (the
+arrival of a Prince), also the confession and signature of
+Guy Fawkes after torture, such a wavering, faint signature,
+"Guido." It is extraordinary how all the papers
+and handwriting have lasted. All these old-world things
+are so interesting to me, I seem to realize history so much
+more. I hope to get over to Paris for a little this month.
+We had a nice party (music) at Louisa Lady Ashburton's
+this evening, and an interesting collection of people,
+fashionable, literary, and <em>Salvation Army</em>. The house is
+crowded with statues, pictures, and artistic treasures of
+all kinds.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To J. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Ambassade de France &agrave; Londres</span>,<br >
+Sunday, May 29, 1887.</p>
+
+<p>We seem to have a gleam of sunshine this afternoon,
+Dear Jan, after weeks of bleak east winds and grey skies,
+and we are going to take advantage of it to drive out to
+White Lodge, Richmond Park, and see the Tecks. We
+are revelling in Whitsuntide recess, and no dinners or banquets
+until Friday, the second Court Concert. Last night
+I went to the Op&eacute;ra with the Staals. It was "Faust,"
+very well given, with Albani, Scalchi, and Gayare. The
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_243" title="pg 243"> </a>
+house was fairly brilliant, but not full&mdash;the Prince and
+Princess of Wales, Rothschilds, and a certain number of
+people, who came to hear Albani (she is such a favourite
+here). I should think it would be a losing operation.
+Tell Janet Mlle. de Staal looks so nice, is so much
+more animated, really very pretty, so high bred and always
+well dressed. Lady Salisbury's reception at the
+F. O. on Tuesday for the Queen's Birthday was very
+brilliant; there were quantities of Princes; a Danish
+Prince, brother of the Princess of Wales; a young
+Russian Grand Duke, a son of the late Prince Frederick
+Charles, brother of the Duchess of Connaught, and any
+quantity of Maharajahs, covered with gold and silver
+embroidery and diamonds and emeralds as big as eggs.
+They always make a great fuss over the Indian Princes
+at Court&mdash;treat them like Royalty, and give them very
+good places. The Corps Diplomatique always protests.
+The lion of the evening was Herbert Bismarck. From
+the Prince of Wales down everyone, men and women,
+was overwhelming him with attentions. I didn't think
+the Danish Prince looked much pleased. He remarked
+that "Bismarck had a most disagreeable voice." Lizzie
+P. was wandering about looking very handsome. I
+didn't see Buffalo Bill, which rather surprised me. I
+suppose he is genuine, isn't he? He professed to remember
+Captain King perfectly when I said I had a brother
+who had been some time on the plains with his regiment.
+Certainly the "Wild West Show" is most original and
+entertaining. The Indians look savage enough to satisfy
+anyone, and Buffalo Bill and the King of the Cowboys
+are splendid specimens of frontiersmen.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Monday.</p>
+
+<p>I will finish this morning; it is still dark and rainy. We
+went out yesterday to White Lodge and had a pleasant
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_244" title="pg 244"> </a>
+visit. It was much too cold to sit out, so we had tea in
+the gallery and enjoyed it very much. Princess Mary is
+always so easy. The young Princess May looked very
+nice in a light tweed with a white waistcoat. She asked
+after Janet, and wanted to know if she was to be here this
+season. I asked Princess Mary what she was going to
+wear at the Jubilee Te Deum at Westminster. She said
+she had no idea, but she had been told long dress, smart
+bonnet, decorations and diamonds. It seems the Queen
+is going to wear a white bonnet covered with diamonds.
+I have asked no questions and mean to wear a short dress&mdash;no
+one will see, as we do not join any cort&eacute;ge. We
+arrive quite simply and go straight to our places. I
+shall wear white lace with mousse velvet, and a
+mousse bonnet with pink roses. Tell Janet, I am convinced
+I shall never wear my moir&eacute; apricot dress from
+Roulf, that I couldn't wear last year at any of the Court
+f&ecirc;tes. I am sure the German Prince will die. They say
+he may at any moment, as the excrescence in his throat
+may increase, and then he would suffocate. Wouldn't it
+be strange if that old Emperor outlived the son. Neither
+sled nor fans have yet arrived. I suppose they will appear
+soon. We have one or two things we mean to send
+out, as soon as we have an opportunity&mdash;gloves, etc. I
+should think some of the 75,000 Americans who are
+coming over would go back in the course of the summer.
+Princess Mary told me yesterday that a pretty
+American girl&mdash;an heiress&mdash;she couldn't remember the
+name&mdash;did I know?&mdash;is probably going to marry a
+Count Btetju, aide-de-camp to the Prince of Denmark.
+It seems he saw her here and fell in love with her at once.
+I must stop now. Have any quantity of notes to write.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_245" title="pg 245"> </a></p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+June 14, 1887.</p>
+
+<p>London is getting ready for the Jubilee and the streets
+are crowded. Various Royalties have arrived, and one
+meets Royal carriages, escorts, and strong squads of
+police at every turn. It is warm and lovely to-day&mdash;so
+was yesterday. W., Francis and I drove out to Sheen,
+where W. plays tennis in Lord F.'s private court. I wandered
+about under the trees, and Francis sailed his boat
+in the pond and was quite happy. It is such a rest to
+get a few hours in the country when one is going out all
+the time as we are here&mdash;and above all not to have to
+talk. We had a remarkable entertainment last night,
+given by the Hawaiian Secretary (who is a German-American)
+for his Queen, of the Sandwich Islands. We
+arrived in due time, I rather protesting.</p>
+
+<p>There was a large reception after dinner and the mistress
+of the house asked us if we wouldn't stand by the
+Queen and make a sort of cercle, and a funny contrast
+we made&mdash;Mrs. P. beautifully dressed in white satin and
+lace, Lady R. with splendid jewels, I wore my pink
+brocade and old Venetian lace. It really was too absurd.
+I talked a little to the Princess, who is intelligent
+enough. The Queen is a great stickler for etiquette,
+and insisted upon the same honours as any other Royalties,
+an escort of <em>Life Guards</em>;&mdash;wouldn't accept any
+less distinguished escort.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+June 18, 1887.</p>
+
+<p>We have had rather an amusing afternoon. I think
+I wrote you that we wanted to leave Westminster Abbey
+the minute the ceremony was over, get through the line
+of troops, and back to a friend's house in Piccadilly to see
+the cort&eacute;ge&mdash;we being Mrs. Phelps and I. Our respective
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_246" title="pg 246"> </a>
+husbands were most discouraging (as men always
+are), but we dined last night with Knowles to meet the
+Duke of Cambridge, and I told His Royal Highness what
+we wanted to do, and asked him if he could help us.
+After some little discussion he said he would advise us to
+go directly to Sir Charles Warren (Chief of Police) and
+see what he could arrange for us. Again our husbands
+remonstrated, "Warren was overrun with applications of
+all kinds, worked to death, and it was very unreasonable,"
+but backed by the Duke we determined to try.</p>
+
+<p>I told His Royal Highness I should put on my most
+becoming Paris bonnet and beard the lion in his den.
+He said, "Quite right, my dear, a man is always flattered
+when a woman tries to please him," so accordingly about
+3 Mrs. Phelps and I started for Scotland Yard. George
+was rather surprised when I gave the order. We drove
+through one or two courts and were stopped once by a
+huge policeman, who let us go on when we said it was the
+French Ambassadress. We were shown at once into Sir
+Charles's room, and I must say he was charming, most
+kind and courteous. We had arranged beforehand that
+I was to be spokeswoman, and I went at once to the
+point. He was sitting at his table with letters and papers
+and telegrams, the telegraph ticking all the time, despatches
+and telegrams being brought in, and as busy a
+man as I ever saw. He immediately sent for maps of
+the route, distribution of the troops, etc., and said he
+thought he could manage it. We must have a light carriage
+(of course we must go to the Abbey in state in the
+gala coach) waiting at the Poets' Corner, as near the
+door as it can get; he will send us a pass to break through
+the lines, and will have three or four policemen waiting
+for us at the corner of Piccadilly and one of the smaller
+streets to pass us through the crowd. We really didn't
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_247" title="pg 247"> </a>
+derange him very much. The whole conversation lasted
+about ten minutes, and he was rather amused at this
+sudden appearance of the two "femmes du monde" in his
+"milieu" of clerks, policemen, telegraph boys, type-writers
+and a hurrying, bustling crowd of employ&eacute;s of all
+kinds. We returned triumphant to our respective
+houses.</p>
+
+<p>We had a fine reception last night at the Austrian Embassy
+in honour of Prince Rudolph. We arrived late,
+having dined out. The Prince is very good-looking,
+slight, elegant figure, and charming manners and smile.
+All the world was there&mdash;quantities of pretty women,
+and pretty dresses&mdash;the Countess Karolyi always the
+handsomest.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+June 20, 1887.</p>
+
+<p>London is really a sight to-day, the streets gay with
+flags, draperies, stands, illuminations, and quantities of
+people gaping all day long. I went for a drive with
+Mary Sheridan, daughter of Mr. Motley, late Minister
+from the United States to the Court of St. James. We
+didn't attempt going down Piccadilly, as we saw what a
+dense crowd and block there was, so we crossed to Constitution
+Hill. We went all round Westminster Abbey;
+I wanted to see the Poets' Corner where we are to go in
+to-morrow, and the House of Commons stand where she
+is to be with her sister. We were blocked for a quarter
+of an hour standing close to the Embankment. Some
+of the mottoes are very nice. I like the humble ones best,
+"God bless our Queen." We were a long time getting
+back to the Embassy, Piccadilly almost impassable. It
+was amusing, as everyone was arranging their balconies,
+and we recognised various friends standing at windows,
+and on balconies directing the arrangement of chairs,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_248" title="pg 248"> </a>
+plants, flags, etc. After dinner W. took his cigar and we
+walked about a little in Piccadilly. Some of the illuminations
+had already begun and the crowd was dense, but
+no jostling or roughs, everyone good-humoured and
+wildly interested in the decorations. London is transformed
+for the moment and looks like a great continental
+city, all lights and flags and an "air de f&ecirc;te." We didn't
+stay out very late, as we have a long day before us to-morrow.
+They say the Queen is well, but rather "&eacute;mue"
+and a little nervous, which must be expected. I shall
+wear white, the only objection to that being that jewels
+won't show out, as they would on a darker colour.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate, London</span>,<br >
+June 22, 1887.</p>
+
+<p>I am still exhausted, Dear, with the visions of a brilliant,
+motley, moving crowd, when I shut my eyes. Yesterday
+was beautiful, a glorious summer day. I was
+waked up at 6.30 by the dull rumble of carriages, and
+people already on the move. I thought they must have
+forgotten to call me, but the house was still wrapped in
+slumber, and though it was only 6.30 the Park was full of
+carriages, men in uniform and women in full dress. We
+started at 9.30 in the gala carriage, W. in uniform, and
+were followed by a second carriage, landau, the men
+equally in gala. We remained blocked for a long time in
+Piccadilly, it didn't seem possible to get on; distracted
+policemen, mounted and on foot, and officers did what
+they could, but there we remained, curiously enough
+all the Ambassadors' carriages together. Finally an order
+was given to let the Ambassadors' carriages pass,
+and we got on a little. Various Court carriages passed
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_249" title="pg 249"> </a>
+us&mdash;one so pretty with the three little daughters of the
+Duke of Edinburgh all in white with straw hats, and long
+white feathers, sitting on the back seat, and smiling and
+bowing, and looking quite charming with their fair hair
+streaming down their backs. They had an equerry in
+uniform with them on the front seat. Once past St.
+James's Street we went quickly enough thro' long lines
+of soldiers, and behind them quantities of people waiting
+patiently to see the great show. We went into the
+Abbey at the Poets' Corner, where an entrance was reserved
+for the Corps Diplomatique and Court functionaries.
+It was a fine sight; tier upon tier of seats covered
+with red cloth and filled with men in uniform, and women
+in handsome dresses. The Peers and Peeresses sat just
+below us and looked very well; as it was Collar Day, all
+the Garter men wore their white shoulder-knots, which
+were most effective. It was very difficult to distinguish
+people, the building is so enormous, but as we were close
+to the dais we saw all the Royalties perfectly. At last
+various members of the Royal Family came in, and the
+first Sovereign to enter was Her Majesty of the Sandwich
+Islands with her cort&eacute;ge; then came quickly the
+King of the Belgians, King of Denmark, various other
+Princes, and they all took their places on a platform facing
+the Queen's dais. We waited some time, and then
+came a flourish of trumpets which announced the
+Queen's arrival. It was most interesting to see her come
+up the aisle&mdash;quite alone in front&mdash;her three sons, Wales,
+Edinburgh, and Connaught, just behind her. She was
+dressed in black with silver embroidery, a white lace bonnet
+with feathers, and lace caught back by diamond pins.
+As she reached the dais she stepped on it quite alone, and
+advancing to the front made a pretty curtsey to the assembled
+Royalties. Then came a long procession of
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_250" title="pg 250"> </a>
+family Princes, headed by the Prince of Wales and the
+German Crown Prince, who looked magnificent in his
+white uniform, and the Princess of Wales and the German
+Crown Princess. They all passed before the Queen,
+and it was most striking to see her seated there, a
+quiet figure dressed in black, very composed and smiling,
+yet "&eacute;mue" too, as the long line of children and
+grandchildren representing all Europe passed to do her
+homage. It was a gorgeous crowd of uniforms, orders,
+jewels, and really <em>glittering</em> garments of all kinds; but
+every eye was fixed on the central figure. The service
+began at once and was impressive. The Prince Consort's
+"Te Deum" sounded magnificent with organ and
+full band. I must own to considerable distraction during
+the service, as I was quite taken up with looking at
+everything. When the ceremony was over&mdash;or nearly&mdash;we
+started at once, found our carriage (ordinary
+landau) at the Poets' Corner again, and drove quickly
+around by Belgravia and Albert Gate (breaking the lines
+of troops once or twice, but with no difficulty, as orders
+had been given), to the corner of Hamilton Place and
+Piccadilly. There we had to leave the carriage, but it
+was merely a few steps to my friend's house where we
+were to see the procession pass; however we should
+never have got there if we hadn't found the 4 gigantic
+policemen who were waiting for us, and who deposited
+us rather pulled about, but intact, at the door. We
+found the balcony prettily decorated and filled with
+people, and had an excellent view of the procession. The
+Queen's carriage was handsome, an open landau red and
+gold, with six cream-coloured horses with red and gold
+trappings, and running footmen. She was alone on the
+back seat; the Princesses of Wales and Germany on the
+front seat. The escort of Princes was very brilliant.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_251" title="pg 251"> </a>
+The Prince of Wales looked well on a fine horse, and the
+German Crown Prince superb, towering over everyone
+else, and his helmet shining in the bright sunlight. The
+cheering was tremendous as the Queen passed, and one
+felt it was absolutely genuine (nothing command&eacute;), her
+people (I always like that phrase so much, "My people,"
+when she uses it in a speech or proclamation) really delighted
+to have her still with them. Another who also
+was much cheered was Princess Mary of Teck. They
+love her, and she looked so happy and smiling as she acknowledged
+the salutation. She has such a gracious
+manner always to everyone&mdash;never seems bored. However
+I must say that for the Prince of Wales; no matter
+what the function is (and he must be bored very often)
+he never looks it, but always does graciously, and as if
+he liked it, whatever he undertakes. There was a very
+substantial lunch provided for us at Lady Borthwick's,
+and as soon as the cort&eacute;ge disappeared I clamoured for
+something to eat, as it was nearly 3.30, and I had had
+nothing to eat but my early cup of tea and piece of
+toast about 8.30. I went straight back to the Embassy
+after luncheon&mdash;even then, at 4 o'clock, we had to go
+at a foot's pace thro' the crowd&mdash;and I didn't stir again
+all the afternoon, but I had visitors at tea-time, as of
+course the windows and balconies giving on the Park
+were most attractive. There were thousands of people
+still in the Park, and Royal carriages and escorts coming
+and going; music, flags, and a general impression of
+movement and colour everywhere.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus292.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887." id="illus292" title="Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887."> </a>
+
+<p class="center small">Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887.<br >
+From a photograph copyright, by Hughes &amp; Mullins, Ryde, England.</p></div>
+
+<p>In the evening we started at 10 for the Palace, and
+they thought there would be such a crowd that we had a
+mounted policeman, but we had no trouble. Everyone
+made way for the carriage, though, of course, the general
+traffic was stopped, and everybody (including our own
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_252" title="pg 252"> </a>
+secretaries, who weren't invited to the Palace, merely
+the "chefs de mission") in the middle of the streets, looking
+at the illuminations. There was great confusion at
+the Palace&mdash;dinners still going on and servants hurrying
+backward and forward with dishes, and piles of plates on
+the floor as we passed through the long corridor. We
+had to pass through the great hall where the numerous
+"suites" were dining&mdash;and we naturally hesitated a moment
+as they were still at table&mdash;but Colonel Byng came
+forward and ushered us upstairs, and into one of the
+large rooms. There were very few people&mdash;the "chefs
+de mission," the Nunzio who had come expressly, Lord
+and Lady Salisbury, and Lord C., Indian Secretary
+(as there were many Indian Princes). We waited nearly
+an hour and were then summoned to the ball-room,
+where the Queen and Court were assembled. The
+Queen was standing, dressed just as she always is for
+a Drawing-room, with her small diamond crown and
+veil, and again the background of Princes and uniforms
+made a striking contrast to the one black-robed
+figure. The Prince of Wales stood a little behind, on
+her right, also Lord Lathom (Lord Chamberlain). We
+all passed before her, two by two, with our husbands, and
+she said a few words to each one, but no real conversation;
+it was evidently an effort, and we felt we must not
+stay a moment longer than necessary. I talked to one
+or two people while the others were passing. The German
+Crown Princess came over and talked to us. I
+asked her if the Queen was very tired. She said not
+nearly as much as she expected, it was more the anticipation
+of the day that had made her nervous, that she was
+very agitated when she started, but that wore off, and
+she was not very tired this evening, and very happy, as
+were all her children, I said, "You might add her
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_253" title="pg 253"> </a>
+people, Madam, for I never saw such a splendid outburst
+of loyalty." The Crown Princess herself is perfectly delightful,
+so clever and cultivated, and so easy, with such
+beautiful, clear, smiling eyes. Do you remember how
+much I admired her in Rome the first time I met her?
+She is always so kind to us. W. loves to talk to her;
+they don't always agree, but she quite understands people
+having their own opinions, rather prefers it, I think, as
+she must necessarily be so often thrown with people who
+never venture to disagree with her. The Crown Prince
+of Sweden also came and recalled himself to me, and the
+Duc d'Aoste. The Queen remained about an hour; then
+the Royal party moved off in procession, and we got our
+carriages as quickly as we could. I have written you a
+volume (but you must say that doesn't happen often from
+my lazy pen, but I felt I must write at once, or I should
+never have the courage). Please send the letter to the
+family in America. I am dead tired, and my eyes shutting
+by themselves.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, June 22, 1887.</p>
+
+<p>We went this afternoon with the Florians, Comte de
+Florian, Secretary of the Embassy, and Comtesse de
+Florian, Francis, Baroness Hilda Deichmann and her
+children and some of the Embassy men, to the children's
+f&ecirc;te in Hyde Park. It was very pretty, and very
+well arranged; 30,000 children from all parts of London,
+and amusements, food, and jubilee mugs provided
+for all. We got there a little after 3, and it was warm
+and fatiguing standing and walking about. There were
+various refreshment tents for the "quality committee,"
+etc., and the children got iced cream and cakes to their
+hearts' content, also each a jubilee mug with which they
+were much pleased. The Prince and Princess of Wales,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_254" title="pg 254"> </a>
+with some of the foreign Princes, came about 4 (and
+horribly bored the foreigners looked&mdash;naturally). We
+stood and walked about until 6, when the Queen arrived.
+Her procession was rather pretty, just a troop of
+mounted police, then the Life Guards, the Indian
+contingent, and the Queen in an open carriage with
+4 horses, the postilions in black, and two Highland
+servants in costume behind. The Crown Princess of
+Germany, Princess Christian, and Duke of Edinburgh
+in the carriage with her; and the Duke of Cambridge
+(Ranger of the Park) riding at the porti&egrave;re. Several
+Royal carriages followed, all the women in smart
+clothes, and the men in uniform, as the Queen was
+to make her formal Jubilee entr&eacute;e into Windsor on
+leaving London after the f&ecirc;te. There was such a press
+and jostling when the Queen came&mdash;even the women
+pushing and struggling to get to the front, that I should
+have been nearly crushed with the two children (I had
+Hilda and Francis with me) if Prince Hermann of Saxe-Weimar
+hadn't recognised me and come to my rescue.
+He is very tall and broad, so he made way for me, put the
+children in front, and then stood behind me so that no one
+could get at me. I must say it was a fine struggle, the
+ladies used their arms valiantly. A small slight woman
+would have had no show at all. The Queen didn't get
+out of her carriage. The Prince stood bareheaded at the
+carriage door all the time the Queen was there, and various
+people were brought up and presented to her. I
+found plenty of people to talk to, among others the German
+Crown Prince, who they say is in a very bad way;
+he doesn't look changed, perhaps a little thinner, but the
+voice has gone. He spoke in a whisper. He noticed the
+children, said Francis was very like his father. I told
+him Hilda was a little compatriote, and named her to him.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_255" title="pg 255"> </a>
+He knows her parents well. The Queen was much
+cheered as she drove off; then there were more cheers for
+the Prince, who acknowledged them most graciously, as
+he does always. We had again rather a struggle to get
+through the crowd and across to the Embassy, and then
+at 6.30 I had some tea, got into a tea-gown, and refused
+to move again. W. tried to entice me to the Foreign
+Office where there was a big reception, but I was utterly
+incapable of another word (the heat always tries me so);
+so he departed sadly, but didn't stay long&mdash;merely
+showed himself. He said the crowd was awful, and Lord
+Cranborne, the son of the house, in a wild state on the
+stairs, with his supper list, as he couldn't find half the
+people. W. told him not to worry about us, as he was
+going home, and I was in bed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus298.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the Uniform Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, London" id="illus298" title="The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the Uniform Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, London"> </a>
+
+<p class="center small">The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the Uniform
+Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, London
+June, 1887<br >
+From a photograph by Loescher &amp; Petsch Berlin</p></div>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+June 24, 1887.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday I had rather a quiet day, I was still so dead
+tired after the children's f&ecirc;te. Jean and I drove about
+in the afternoon. She wanted to see the "Black
+Queen," as the Queen of the Sandwich Islands is called,
+and we crossed her once or twice driving in the Park.
+It does look funny to see her sitting up in the Royal carriage
+with red liveries. We had a beautiful ball last
+night, given by Lord and Lady Rosebery at Lansdowne
+House for all the Royalties. The House was beautifully
+arranged; the ballroom panelled half way up the wall
+with red roses and green leaves. I danced a quadrille with
+the King of Greece, who is easy and talks a great deal;
+he speaks English perfectly well. He asked about the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_256" title="pg 256"> </a>
+Schuylers, and spoke most warmly of them&mdash;said Schuyler
+was one of the few perfectly intelligent men he had
+ever met, "knew everything about everything," I must
+write it to them. The supper was very well arranged,
+small tables of eight or ten. Almost all the Royalties
+were there, but not the Hawaiian Queen. I asked our
+host why he hadn't invited Queen Kapiolani; but he said
+he really couldn't. The ball was small, and Lady Rosebery
+left out many of her friends, who naturally were not
+pleased. W. actually stayed to supper&mdash;I was so surprised,
+as he hates it.</p>
+
+<p class="author">June 24, 1887.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon all the swells went to Ranelagh to see
+a polo match, but I thought I would reserve myself for
+the Palace Ball. The Queen didn't appear, but we had
+two others, the Queen of the Belgians, and always Kapiolani.
+It was badly managed at first, the result being that
+when the Court came we had a crowd of people, officers,
+pages, etc., about four deep in front of us, so that we
+could neither see nor be seen, nor hardly move. When
+the first "quadrille d'honneur" was being danced we saw
+nothing, so after a consultation we all left the ball-room.
+Then there were various "pourparlers," and they finally
+did what they should have done at first, enlarged the
+circle, so that we were out of the crowd and near the
+Court. There was also a great rush at supper, so that they
+had to shut one door for a moment. I didn't see many
+people to talk to, but of course it was very difficult. The
+Grand Duchess Serge looked beautiful, with splendid emeralds
+(she is the daughter of Princess Alice), and the
+Duchesse de Braganza (daughter of the Comte de Paris)
+was charming, so very high-bred, tall and slight, with a
+pretty little dark head. I always find the Princess of
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_257" title="pg 257"> </a>
+Wales the most distinguished looking. She stands out
+everywhere. Our "Doyenne," Countess Karolyi, was
+superb&mdash;also with magnificent jewels. The Indian
+Princes made a great show, of course, with their silk,
+heavily embroidered tuniques, and the quantities of jewels,
+but they are not often well cut, nor well set, and they
+themselves are certainly off color&mdash;they look barbarians,
+and have such false faces&mdash;I wouldn't trust one of them.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+July 3, 1887.</p>
+
+<p>It is delicious summer weather now, and yesterday we
+went to Buckingham Palace to see the Queen review the
+Volunteers. I wore for the first time my Jubilee Medal.
+It came Friday with a note from the Duchess of Roxburghe
+saying the Queen hoped I would wear it as a
+souvenir of her Jubilee. It is a plain little silver medal
+about the size of a two-shilling piece, with the Queen's
+head on one side and an inscription on the other, fastened
+to a bow of blue and white ribbon. We three Ambassadresses
+are the only women of the Corps Diplomatique
+that have it. All the Queen's household have it, Duchesses
+of Bedford, Buccleuch, Roxburghe, etc. The
+Princesses, also, of course, but theirs are in gold.</p>
+
+<p>It was most amusing waiting in the courtyard of the
+Palace seeing everyone arrive. All the Royalties took up
+their positions at the foot of the Queen's tribune, and
+waited for her. Our tribune was on one side of hers, and
+one for the Indian Princes opposite. The Volunteers
+looked and passed very well; as it was Saturday afternoon
+and the shops in London are closed early always
+Saturday, all the various butchers, bakers, and candle-stick-makers
+could leave their shops and parade, and extremely
+well some of them looked; stout, heavy men
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_258" title="pg 258"> </a>
+moving quite lightly and at ease in their stiff uniforms.
+It was pretty to see the various Princes break away from
+their places on the Duke of Cambridge's staff and ride
+ahead of the various regiments of which they are honorary
+colonels. The Prince of Wales looked well on his
+handsome chestnut, which is perfectly trained and steps
+beautifully. The Duke of Connaught is a handsome soldier.
+We were a long time getting away, but as we had
+no dinner-party it wasn't of any consequence. It was
+such a pleasure not to put on a low bodice and diamonds.
+I always grumble about putting on my diadem&mdash;as a rule
+I never wear anything in my hair, not even feathers (except
+at Court), and the diadem is heavy. After dinner
+W. and I went for a drive along the Thames Embankment&mdash;our
+favourite recreation after a long, hot day.
+There are still people about, and a general air of festivity.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+July 21, 1887.</p>
+
+<p>It is just four years to-day since W. came to London.
+We got back from Moscow and the Coronation the 6th,
+and almost immediately the Minister offered W. London.
+My "beau-fr&egrave;re" said he would give us two years when
+we came over. I wonder how much longer it will last.
+We had a big dinner to-night, and Lord Lathom, the
+Lord Chamberlain, was next to me. He said no one
+could imagine how difficult it had been to arrange everything
+for the Jubilee ceremonies; that the Queen was
+consulted <em>on every point</em>, as she knew more about
+etiquette and court ceremonies than anyone else. One
+day he had 42 telegrams from her. We told him we
+thought everything was well managed (except the ball,
+where all the young officers crowded in front of us, and
+stepped on our toes, and on our trains). He quite admitted
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_259" title="pg 259"> </a>
+that that might have been better done, but also
+remarked that he thought the Corps Diplomatique a little
+exacting; so, as usual, there are two sides to every
+question.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+July 25, 1887.</p>
+
+<p>We have had a nice outing, Dear, thanks to the Naval
+Review; two such beautiful interesting days. I am
+burned brown as a berry, but, as the season is over, that
+is of no consequence, and I shall have plenty of time at
+Bourneville to bleach. We started Saturday at 9.30 for
+Portsmouth with the Florians, Waru, and R., Naval Attach&eacute;,
+in a special train. The harbour looked so pretty
+as we came in sight of it. Every description of vessel
+(even the "Victory," Nelson's old ship, now a training
+ship), and all sorts of ironclads, big steamers, yachts, and
+the smallest sort of pleasure-boat, dressed with flags. We
+went at once on board the "Helicon," a small despatch
+boat, especially destined to the Corps Diplomatique and
+distinguished strangers. There were about 150 people
+on board, all colleagues, also the Arch Duke Regnier of
+Austria, and the two young sons of the Duc d'Aoste with
+their suites. Directly after us came two great English
+transports painted white, one for the Lords, and one for
+the Commons, and all around us a fleet of ordinary
+rowing-boats and barges filled with people&mdash;quantities
+of women and children. We steamed slowly
+across the Solent to Osborne to meet the Queen,
+and passed close to the great ironclads, which looked
+monsters, and formidable ones. We had a handsome
+substantial lunch on board, to which we all did
+honour. There were not many foreign ships. Our
+two looked very well and were much admired, an old
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_260" title="pg 260"> </a>
+frigate, the "Iphig&eacute;nie," now a training ship, with the
+midshipmen on board, and the "&Eacute;lan," a pretty little despatch
+boat. There were only two other foreign boats:
+a German and a Dutchman. The Italian ships put into
+Spithead, and then went off to Dartmouth, no one knows
+why exactly. Some say they were not satisfied with their
+place (they arrived after the French ships, and would
+have been decidedly farther off, and behind ours), others
+that they were not in good condition, not smart enough;
+however, they were not there and the Italian Princesses
+who had expected to sleep on board, and meet their
+brother who is on one of the ships, were much disgusted.
+As soon as the "Osborne," with the Queen, the Prince of
+Wales, and the King of Greece (we didn't understand
+the Greek flag at first, as we didn't know the King was
+on board), had passed, we followed and went down the
+line. It was a beautiful sight, and England could certainly
+be proud of her great ironclads filling the harbour,
+and showing her strength as a naval power. We went
+slowly, and it was amusing to hear the criticisms and
+appreciations of all the assembled foreigners on the show&mdash;however,
+I suppose all ironclads now are pretty much
+alike, only England happens to have three times as many
+as any of the rest of us. About 6 o'clock there was a
+halt. We of course had tea on deck, and suddenly we
+saw quantities of steam launches coming across the water
+in all directions. They looked like enormous white birds
+in the distance. They were almost all white, low in the
+water, and going very fast. The captains of all the ships
+had been called on board the Queen's yacht to be received
+by her. This made a long delay, and our colleagues were
+getting impatient, as they foresaw that they would be
+very late in getting back to London. We took that opportunity
+to ask the Captain of the "Helicon" to bear
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_261" title="pg 261"> </a>
+down toward the "Iphig&eacute;nie," as we were to dine and
+sleep on board. We changed our course a little, and in
+about 10 minutes two very smart French boats ran alongside,
+coming up in grand style. The three English officers
+stood on the bridge and helped us off, and I must say
+it was all done admirably&mdash;not the slightest confusion,
+and we were a big party. Our fellow-passengers decidedly
+envied us. The Bylandts (Dutch Minister) were
+much put out. They had asked the Captain of their ship
+to let them dine and sleep on board, but he refused absolutely;
+said he had just arrived from a long cruise, and
+was not prepared to receive anyone. We got to the
+"Iphig&eacute;nie" in about 15 minutes. The Commandant,
+Noccomore, was standing on the bridge. W. got out
+first, then T., and as soon as W. put his foot on the
+deck, where all the sailors, officers, and midshipmen were
+drawn up, there was a salute of drums and clarions (they
+couldn't give the regular salute of guns to the Ambassador,
+as, when the Queen is in the harbour, no one else
+can be saluted). The Commandant gave me his arm,
+and we went at once to his quarters (or rather "carr&eacute;," as
+they say on board ship). We passed through a fine room
+or hall, the entire width of the frigate, where a good-sized
+dinner-table was ready. The Commandant asked when
+we would dine; we said in a "quart d'heure," just the time
+to wash our faces, which were black with smoke and red
+with sun, and he showed W. and me our quarters (his
+of course), and most comfortable. The cabin large,
+with a wardrobe, and a large "cabinet de toilette," with
+English wash-stand, bath-room, etc. For one person it
+was perfectly roomy. Of course when a second bed was
+put in the "cabinet de toilette" it was a little small.
+Mmes. de Florian and Heurtel had the second officer's
+cabin, and the men hammocks in some part of the ship.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_262" title="pg 262"> </a></p>
+
+<p>The dinner was good and handsome. I had the
+"Aum&ocirc;nier" on the other side of me. He was intelligent,
+ready to talk about anything, and the dinner was
+very agreeable. Plenty of talk. W. talked a great deal,
+and the naval officers were interesting, as they always
+are. They have seen so much, and had such varied experiences.
+After dinner we had coffee in the Commandant's
+salon, and then went on deck, where we spent a
+delightful evening. The sea was perfectly calm, not a
+ripple, and lights everywhere&mdash;all the ships illuminated
+and sending off fireworks at intervals. We could hardly
+see our own, but the little "&Eacute;lan" looked very smart and
+natty. We broke up about 11, and I don't know when
+I have enjoyed anything so much as that perfectly quiet
+summer night on the water; such a rest after the long
+day, and early start from London. We promised to be
+ready at a quarter to 10 for Mass, and the visit of the
+ship. You would have been amused to see how well
+Drejet did my service (they asked me if I could do without
+my maid for one night, as they really didn't know
+what to do with her). He told Adela&iuml;de he could do
+everything for me except my hair, and tying my sash,
+which seemed to be a serious performance to him, and
+really all my dressing things were put out and a "saut de
+lit" disposed gracefully over the back of a chair just as
+A. always did. I supposed she coached him. I was stirring
+early enough the next morning, but I couldn't tie my
+sash either, so I wandered out on the deck to have my
+early tea, and Countess de Florian helped me to finish
+my toilette. We went all over the ship before Mass.
+The midshipmen's quarters are small, but of course beautifully
+kept, and the young men all looked as smiling
+and prosperous as possible, and were much pleased at the
+Ambassador's visit. At 10 o'clock we assembled on deck
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_263" title="pg 263"> </a>
+for Mass. Part of the deck was covered in with flags,
+and as a compliment to my nationality they had put the
+"Stars and Stripes" immediately over my head. I was
+much pleased, as it is a good many years since I have sat
+under the old flag. I suppose I can't say <em>my flag</em> any
+more, but I feel it all the same. There were three armchairs
+directly in front of the altar&mdash;two big ones for
+W. and me and a smaller one between for the Commandant.34
+
+As soon as we were seated the Abb&eacute; came, made a
+bow to W. and me, and began his Mass. It was very
+impressive&mdash;so still, not a sound except the little waves
+beating against the side of the ship, and the word of
+command for the marines at the raising of the Host, when
+there was a fine salute of drums and bugles. We had a
+very gay breakfast, the Captain of the "&Eacute;lan" coming
+to join us, and at 1 o'clock we left our hospitable frigate
+for the "&Eacute;lan" which was going to cruise about with us
+all the afternoon. They certainly received us most hospitably
+and charmingly; I shall often think of those
+quiet hours on the deck, and the Mass this morning, which
+impressed me very much. We had a lovely afternoon on
+the "&Eacute;lan," practically doing the Review over again, and
+going close up to the big ironclads, such ugly, heavy
+masses as they seem when one is near them. We crossed
+over to Cowes, went alongside of the Prince of Wales'
+yacht, but didn't stop. The captain gave us an interesting
+account of their reception on the "Osborne." It
+seems there was some mistake in the orders brought by
+the Aide-de-Camp of the Admiral of the Fleet. The
+Commandant of the "Iphig&eacute;nie" thought he could
+take several officers with him, and when he appeared
+on the "Osborne" with 5 or 6 officers, the Admiral
+was much embarrassed, and didn't know what to do,
+as the Queen intended to receive only the Commandants.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_264" title="pg 264"> </a>
+However the Prince of Wales, with his never-failing
+tact, said he would put it all right, and in a
+few moments they were told that the Queen would
+be very pleased to receive <em>all</em> the French officers.
+They told us they saw a lady in deep mourning, with
+perfectly white hair, standing behind the Queen, who
+looked so earnestly at the French uniforms, and was
+agitated when they passed; they only realised afterward
+that it was the Empress.<sup><a href="#fn9" id="r9">[9]</a></sup> I wonder if I shall ever see
+her, I would like to so much. We dined on board,
+anchored just off Portsmouth, and got back to London
+about 11 o'clock, having enjoyed our two days immensely.
+It was a beautiful ending to the Jubilee, and
+a beautiful sight. The "cadre" was so lovely for all
+those big ships. All the line of the Isle of Wight is so
+pretty, beautifully green, and the Solent covered with
+boats of all descriptions, and plenty of room for all.
+Some of the small row-boats seemed dangerously near
+the big steamers, but nothing ever happened. When I
+get back to Bourneville and take up my quiet life in the
+woods, these last days will seem a sort of fairy-tale.</p>
+
+<div><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus308.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Comtesse de Florian" id="illus308" title="Comtesse de Florian"></a>
+
+<p class="center small">Comtesse de Florian<br >
+From a photograph by Walery, London.</p></div>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,
+July 29, 1887.</p>
+
+<p>We are starting to-morrow. I had a farewell ride this
+morning, hardly anyone in the Row, Dandy going beautifully
+(you know he is the chestnut I called after the
+famous horse in one of Charlie's stories), except a good
+kick from time to time, which is a bore, not only for me
+(I lost my hat the other day), but for the neighbours.
+We dined at Lord A.'s last night, and he gave us a funny
+account of his experience on the House of Lords boat.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_265" title="pg 265"> </a>
+To begin with he had much difficulty in getting tickets,
+and could get none for his daughters, only himself and
+Lady A. (and he is Hereditary Lord Chamberlain), and
+when he finally did get on the boat he found it crowded
+with all sorts of unknown people, very few peers, and
+very little food. They were faint with hunger before
+the end of the day, so I told him about our handsome
+dinner and hospitable reception on our frigate. Bylandt
+then told us how badly they fared. They cruised about
+for some time in the "Helicon" after we got off, then
+finally the passengers begged to be landed. They were at
+last deposited at Portsmouth, and then made a rush for
+the buffet in the railway station, but that had been completely
+"devalis&eacute;," there wasn't a crumb, not even a dry
+biscuit. Then they were conducted with much pomp to
+reserved carriages which were <em>locked</em>, and there they remained
+for over an hour, seeing various trains start, and
+at last arrived in London at one o'clock in the morning.
+Poor Bylandt was much disgusted. We thought a little
+of asking to keep the "&Eacute;lan" for a week, and of doing the
+Cowes week, but W. thought on the whole it would be
+close quarters, and was not very keen about it. I should
+have liked it. We had all the staff who remain to dine
+to-night. London is curiously empty&mdash;all the chairs
+being taken away from the Park, which gives it a decided
+air of "fin de saison."</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate House</span>,<br >
+March 2, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>I have been back about two weeks and am quite settled
+again. I have always two or three disagreeable days
+when I first come back from France. The coal fires try
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_266" title="pg 266"> </a>
+me very much and I think regretfully of the enormous
+chimneys at Bourneville and the <em>trees</em> that we burned
+there. We have a fog and it is very cold. Francis and
+I went to skate yesterday at the Botanical Gardens. The
+ice was very bad, there was very little room, and swarms
+of children struggling along on their little skates, but the
+outing was pleasant. I also went one day with a friend
+to Wimbledon, and that was better. We drove down
+and had a pleasant afternoon, but the ice was soft, and
+it was the end. Really though, in March in England,
+one could hardly expect to skate.</p>
+
+<p class="author">March 8th.</p>
+
+<p>Hilda came in this morning with very bad news of the
+German Emperor. The Crown Prince was to start from
+the Riviera, and I am afraid he is in a bad way too. He
+looked such a magnificent man at the Jubilee F&ecirc;tes. Of
+course even then his voice and colour showed that something
+was wrong, but it was difficult to believe that a
+mortal disease was mining his strength. We have had
+telegrams all the afternoon, and at 5 they told us the
+Emperor was dead. We sent immediately to Mrs. Jeune,
+where we were engaged to dine to meet Prince and
+Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein, to know if her
+dinner was put off; but the answer came back that the
+dinner was to take place. We went of course, and found
+Princess Christian and Lady Salisbury. Prince Christian,
+as a German Prince and a relation of the German
+Royal Family, did not come; neither did Lord Salisbury,
+who had received a telegram from Berlin announcing the
+Emperor's death. The Princess looked anxious and was
+evidently very much worried at the journey of the Crown
+Prince in such weather, in his delicate state. She left almost
+instantly after dinner. The Drawing-room is postponed.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_267" title="pg 267"> </a>
+The Crown Prince starts to-morrow morning.
+All eyes are upon him, and will follow his journey with
+hopes and fears.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, March 18th.</p>
+
+<p>We all went to the funeral service for the German Emperor
+this morning in the German Lutheran Chapel close
+to Marlborough House. I was quite correct this time,
+and was swathed in cr&ecirc;pe; Mrs. Lecky has lent me her
+long cr&ecirc;pe veil, which will serve again probably, as everyone
+seems to think the Emperor Frederick is doomed. All
+the men were in uniform with cr&ecirc;pe on their sleeves and
+sword hilts (the Germans with their helmets covered with
+cr&ecirc;pe) and the women in woollen dresses with cr&ecirc;pe veils.
+Almost all the Princesses were there (not the Princess of
+Wales), but the Princes were in Berlin. The service was
+long, and curiously enough was <em>not</em> the Lutheran service,
+but the regular Church of England service translated into
+German. It was done, it seems, for George II, who was
+obliged to follow the Church of England service, and
+who didn't understand a <em>word</em> of English. There was
+much chanting, two addresses, and a sermon.</p>
+
+<p>Everyone of course is talking and speculating over
+what will happen in Germany. All the doctors say the
+Emperor Frederick is near his end. No one seems to
+know exactly what will be the attitude of the present
+Crown Prince. He is young, intelligent, with an iron
+will; all good qualities in a sovereign, but he has little
+experience and an absolute confidence in his own judgment.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, April 25, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>We hear a great deal now here about Boulanger, and
+there seems to be the most extraordinary "engouement"
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_268" title="pg 268"> </a>
+for him here as well as in France. Roustan, the Naval
+Attach&eacute;, has just come back from Paris and says the state
+of things is very serious, people have lost their heads
+over Boulanger. He (R.) thinks it is the most serious
+crisis France has passed through since the Commune.
+W. is less blue&mdash;he knows the famous General very little,
+but doesn't think there is much character or backbone
+there.</p>
+
+<p>We had a big dinner the other night at Lord Rothschild's,
+and Lord Hartington, a well-known political and
+social figure, sat between me and the Princesse de Wagram.
+He naturally asked us, the only two Frenchwomen
+at table, what we thought of Boulanger. The Princess
+spoke most enthusiastically of him. The one man in
+France who could regenerate the country, and who would
+be supported by all parties. I said exactly the contrary,
+and that I thought his popularity and power very much
+exaggerated. Lord Hartington was rather amused at
+the two opinions so absolutely at variance.</p>
+
+<p>The Deichmanns came to see us the other day, just
+back from Berlin, and in despair over the Emperor.
+Deichmann said he came into the room with the same
+straight, soldierly bearing he had always had, and except
+that he was thinner, looked unchanged; but he
+couldn't speak, and his friends fear the worst. He is
+worried too over the friction between the Empress and
+Bismarck&mdash;too such strong wills in conflict.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,
+April 26, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>I wonder if you are as cold as I am to-day. I have
+been driving about shivering in the open carriage and my
+seal-skin felt like a foulard. I think I got cold last night.
+We had a pleasant dinner at Lord Knutsford's. I had
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_269" title="pg 269"> </a>
+Count Kufstein next to me. He was for years in Paris
+at the Austrian Embassy just when I was first married
+and making my d&eacute;but in the official world. He is here
+now for the sugar conference, and we were delighted to
+go back to old times, as he knows everybody in Paris of
+all kinds: Imperialists, Royalists, and Republicans. It
+wasn't always easy for a foreigner to get along and not
+offend somebody. On our way home W. suggested that
+we should go in for a moment to the W. H. Smiths' who
+had a big political reception. In a weak moment I
+agreed. It is not really necessary to go to those big
+parties&mdash;one can be written down in the book by one of
+the secretaries, or give the names to the lady of the
+<em>Morning Post</em> who sits with her hat and coat behind
+the door, and puts down as many names as she can manage.
+I should think she would have perpetual rheumatism,
+as the hall door is open and the draught something
+awful. The moment I set my foot in the hall my heart
+sank, such a crowd on the stairs, I should think all the
+House of Commons and all their female relations. There
+was a double current going and coming, and I was thankful
+not to have my dress torn to bits. We met Tom
+Leigh coming down. He said he had been 15 minutes
+on the same step. However we did manage to get upstairs&mdash;tried
+to find either host or hostess, but they had
+evidently left the door&mdash;so after struggling through one
+or two rooms packed tight with people I discovered a
+high wooden stool behind one of the doors which had
+evidently been used for lighting the candles and been
+forgotten, so I seated myself on that and told W. I
+would wait for him there, as he thought he would
+try and find some one of the family. I sat there
+some little time rather interested in the stream of
+perfectly unknown faces which passed until I was
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_270" title="pg 270"> </a>
+rescued by Correa, the Brazilian Minister, who couldn't
+believe that it was really the French Ambassadress
+sitting alone on a three-legged stool behind the door.
+W. came back in about a quarter of an hour not
+having seen any one he knew, and then we started down
+the staircase where we had the same struggle, and the
+cold air blowing in upon my bare shoulders. I was cross
+when I got home&mdash;however I suppose exactly the same
+thing happens when we have a big reception, as the Embassy
+is not nearly large enough. The other night when
+the Duke of Cambridge dined with us we had a party
+afterward. W. went down to the door with him and
+never got up again, there was such a crowd on the stairs.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, May 19, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>The season is animated enough and we are out every
+night (not all day, as so many people are, as we refuse
+all lunches and teas). Our music the other evening with
+Wolff, the young Dutch violinist, and Mdme. Kleeberg,
+was nice. We had invited only about 50 people, all musical.
+Everyone could sit down (which the men appreciated,
+as they usually <em>stand</em> in the doorway all through
+the concert), and also we were not obliged to have those
+rows of gilt chairs which grate so on my nerves. I know
+the women hate it so when they are all seated in rows
+very close to each other and not a man anywhere near.
+Wolff played divinely, with so much tone and sentiment.
+He had a great success. Mdme. Kleeberg always plays
+beautifully. She is well known here and much liked. It
+was the first time Wolff had played in London, and he
+was a little nervous.</p>
+
+<p>Last night we dined with Lady Delawarr to meet
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_271" title="pg 271"> </a>
+Princess Louise and Lord Lorne. The Princess is
+charming; a pretty, graceful figure and attractive manner,
+absolutely what the Italians would call "simpatica."
+Lord Lorne took me to dinner, and I found him most
+entertaining and original. He talked a great deal about
+Canada and America, and certainly knows and appreciates
+"the States." He said if he hadn't been born the eldest
+son of an English Duke he would certainly emigrate to
+the West of America and pitch his tent there.</p>
+
+<p>There was a reception and music in the evening, Wolff
+playing beautifully, but, alas! no one listening. Lady
+Borthwick (who is a good musician) and I moved into
+the large drawing-room at his request when he began to
+play, and I really don't think anyone else scarcely listened,
+and certainly no one realised when, after playing a few
+moments under great difficulty (people coming and going
+and talking all the time), he calmly laid his violin on the
+piano and stopped. He came up to me to explain, what
+I quite understood, that he could hear neither his own
+violin nor the accompaniment, and I could not urge him
+to continue. It is very hard on the artists, an evening
+like that. If they don't play well, everyone criticises; and
+if they stop altogether, people think it is high-handed,
+and criticise equally. I have learnt now by experience
+and never invite <em>many</em> people when I have music.</p>
+
+<p class="author">May 22, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>We had a pleasant evening last night at Sir Arthur
+Sullivan's who had a dinner for the Prince of Wales and
+the Duke and Duchess Paul of Mecklenburg. There
+were all kinds of artists&mdash;singing, reciting, and dancing.
+An American girl, with a very pretty voice, sang very
+well, and Letty Lind was charming. The Duchess Paul
+looked very pretty and chic, and was most amiable. The
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_272" title="pg 272"> </a>
+Prince is so nice to artists&mdash;always a gracious word and
+smile. Sullivan is an excellent host, and keeps everything
+going. Just as we arrived the electric light went
+out. I couldn't imagine why the house looked so dark
+as we drove up, for I knew the Prince was dining, and
+there was the red carpet which always indicates Royalty,
+so there could be no mistake, but the hall-door was open
+and lamps and candles being brought in from all quarters.
+We took off our cloaks in the dark, but in a very few
+minutes things were put right, and the rooms brilliantly
+illuminated. W. never remains long on these occasions,
+but I stayed until the end, even for supper, which was
+very gay.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, May 24, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>My small musical tea for the Duchess Paul was very
+successful I think yesterday. I could not have Johannes
+Wolff, the violinist, which I regretted extremely. He
+plays quite beautifully, with so much "entrain" and sentiment.
+I think I have already written to you about him,
+he is a Dutchman who was sent to me by Mdme. de Zuylen
+(you remember Zuylen who was so long Dutch Minister
+in Paris). It was a little discouraging at first, there
+is such a tremendous concurrence in London, and English
+people like to hear the same artists, whom they know
+well; Joachim, Sarasate, and Mdme. Neruda have it all
+their own way. However, I made a small party for him,
+all musical people, Lady Borthwick, Mrs. Ronalds, Tosti,
+Lord Lathom, etc., and he conquered his public at once.
+It was splendid playing and a style quite his own. We
+replaced him by Mdme. Le Valloit, who plays very well;
+and had besides Picolellis (from Florence), who plays
+well (cello), and Carpe, the Italian baritone who has a
+big voice and sings in the Italian style. The audience
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_273" title="pg 273"> </a>
+listened pretty well at first, then came tea and the clatter
+of tea-cups in the blue room where all the jeunesse had
+congregated, talking and laughing and having their tea
+with a fine unconsciousness of the music going on in the
+next room. They are really very tiresome. That reminds
+me of Grieg who was very "difficile," and who
+couldn't stand a sound when he was playing. He and his
+wife came to the Embassy one night and played and sang
+quite charmingly, and everybody was delighted. Quite
+at the last moment one of the Royalties talked a little
+while he was playing, and I saw the moment when he
+would get up from the piano. However, Wolff and I between
+us managed to calm him. When it was over I told
+him what a success he had had&mdash;that the Prince had enjoyed
+his playing so much, to which he replied&mdash;"Ja, der
+hat es laut gesagt."</p>
+
+<p>Duchess Paul was very amiable, stayed until after 7
+and seemed to enjoy it; at least she listened and spoke
+very nicely to the artists afterward. I had just time to
+dress for a dinner at the Austrian Embassy.</p>
+
+<p class="author">May 26, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>We dined to-night with our cousins the Ivor Herberts,
+a dinner for the Duke and Duchess Paul of Mecklenburg.
+We were asked for 8.15, and they never came until 9,
+looking quite unconcerned. I can't imagine how the
+cooks manage. Juteau tears his hair when we are so late,
+but he is getting accustomed to English hours now, and
+doesn't get ready himself until a quarter of an hour after
+the time fixed. We were a perfect bore to all our friends
+at first with our French punctuality, and arrived once or
+twice before the master of the house. W. consulted Lord
+Granville, who told him his rule was to leave his house
+<em>at the hour named for the dinner</em>; but as we dine sometimes
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_274" title="pg 274"> </a>
+around the corner, and sometimes at Kensington that is
+not always practical. People in Paris are very punctual
+and never wait more than a quarter of an hour for anyone.
+I remember quite well when I was first married, and my
+husband was a Cabinet Minister, being late for dinner at
+Comte Paul de S&eacute;gur's. When we arrived they were at
+table. Among the guests was the Duc d'Audifret-Pasquier,
+President of the Senate&mdash;he had arrived in time
+and they wouldn't keep him waiting more than the "quart
+d'heure de gr&acirc;ce." I was very much surprised, as after
+all my husband was a personage, but I must say I think
+the rule is a good one. I was next to the Duke and found
+him very pleasant. He is a brother of the Grand Duchess
+Wladimir, and he talked about the Coronation, and
+some of the curious, half barbaric ceremonies. He had
+been lunching at Sheen with the Comte de Paris, and was
+much impressed with the dull, sad look of the place. It
+does look gloomy, enclosed in high walls, such a contrast
+to Eu and the beautiful, bright sunny homes where the
+Orl&eacute;ans Princes spent their childish years.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>, May 30th.</p>
+
+<p>To-night we have a quiet evening, and are glad to have
+a chance to talk over Boulanger (who is coming here)
+and various troublesome questions. We dined last night
+with the Duchess of Westminster to meet Princess Mary
+and the Duke of Teck. The dinner was handsome and
+pleasant, and there was a small ball afterward. They
+danced in the picture gallery, a beautiful, large room,
+where the dresses and jewels showed to great advantage.
+We didn't stay very late as W. never dances, not even
+the regulation "Quadrille d'Honneur" at Court. He and
+Karolyi are the only diplomatists who never dance.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_275" title="pg 275"> </a></p>
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, June 5, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday was a beautiful summer day, the ideal Sunday
+of Bishop Keble&mdash;"The bridal of the earth and sky."
+We walked through the "Church Parade" coming back
+from Westminster. There were quantities of pretty girls
+dotted about the Park, looking so fresh and cool in their
+white dresses. I had various visits. Sunday is the <em>man's</em>
+day in London, and the afternoon is generally interesting.
+The Spanish Ambassador came in. He had been lunching
+at Sheen with the Comte de Paris, and told me that
+the Prince asked him if he had seen his Coll&egrave;gue de
+France lately, and what <em>he</em> thought of the state of things
+in France, and particularly what he thought of Boulanger.
+I told him I didn't think the French Ambassador shared
+the Comte de Paris' enthusiasm for that hero, but that
+<em>he</em> had better ask him.</p>
+
+<p>About 5.30 W. and I started for White Lodge, Richmond
+Park, to dine with Princess Mary and the Duke
+of Teck. We found quite a party assembled in the garden
+around a tea-table, the Princess making the tea
+herself, Princess May and some of the young ones helping.
+The talk was pleasant and easy, Princess Mary is
+a charming hostess and <em>likes</em> to talk (which is certainly
+not the case with all English women). She is very stout,
+but has a beautiful head and fine presence. Tosti and
+Picolellis dined, and played divinely after dinner. The
+evening was enchanting. We all sat in the big drawing-room
+opening on the garden. There was not much light,
+the moon shining through the trees, and the two artists
+playing as if inspired anything anyone asked for, from
+a Spohr sonata to an Italian canzonetta. I thought we
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_276" title="pg 276"> </a>
+should stay there all night&mdash;no one wanted to go home.
+The drive home was lovely, the London streets are so
+quiet Sunday night.</p>
+
+<p class="author">June 6th.</p>
+
+<p>This morning was the great meet of the coaches, and
+our terrace of course is in great request as it gives directly
+on the Park. It is always a pretty sight as everyone
+turns out. Lord Fife had the Prince of Wales with
+him, and the Princess was driving about with her three
+daughters in a victoria. The news of the German Emperor
+is very bad.</p>
+
+<p class="author">June 10th.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon we had lovely music at Frank
+Schuster's. Both Wolff and Hollman played divinely.
+They are great rivals, both Dutchmen, and both great
+favourites (Hollman is 'cello). A trio with them and
+Mdme. Kleeberg at the piano is absolutely perfect.</p>
+
+<p>Our dinner at the Monks' was pleasant. I had Sir
+Rivers Wilson next to me, and he is a charming neighbour,
+has been everywhere, knows everybody, and talks
+easily without any pose. There was a concert in the
+evening&mdash;very good&mdash;Trebelli, Lloyd, Nordica, etc. I
+made acquaintance with Nordica, who is an American,
+Miss Norton, from Boston I think. She sings beautifully.
+I said to her (they were all talking hard between
+the songs), "What a noise! Can you ever begin?" "Oh,
+certainly," she said, "I shall make much more noise than
+they do," and she was quite right. Her voice rang
+through the room. One of her songs was Delibes'
+"Filles de Cadiz," which she sang splendidly.</p>
+
+<p class="author">June 12th.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon we have been sight-seeing. Jean came
+to breakfast, and we started off with Jusserand and St.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_277" title="pg 277"> </a>
+Genys to see the Panorama of Niagara, which they say
+is extremely well done. I wanted the foreigners to have
+an idea of our great Falls, for I think in their hearts they
+were rather disposed to agree with a statement in one of
+the Swiss guide-books in speaking of the falls of the
+Rhine at Schaffhausen, "generally supposed to surpass
+the celebrated Falls of Niagara in America." However
+they were agreeably disappointed and were much pleased
+and interested. The Panorama is really very good. It
+is so many years since I have seen Niagara that I had
+forgotten how magnificent the Horse Shoe Fall is, and I
+almost expected to hear the roar of the cataract, and to
+see the little Indian boy selling moccasins and maple
+sugar. I wonder if I would like maple sugar now. One
+of my French friends, Mdme. Casimir Perier, to whom
+I offered as a great treat some American home-made gingerbread,
+could hardly swallow it, and assured me that
+I couldn't eat it either if it had not been a "souvenir d'enfance."
+On leaving Niagara we went to the Aquarium
+to see a dog show. There were some fine specimens,
+but I didn't think any of the fox terriers as good as my
+Boniface. We also saw a swimming match, young ladies
+disporting themselves in the water in most wonderful
+costumes. Then to change our ideas we went into Westminster
+Abbey, just getting there for the end of the afternoon
+service. We heard the anthem, which was beautiful.
+It is such a good choir&mdash;some of the boys' voices
+divine, and they look like such little angels in their white
+surplices. A good many people were waiting to go
+round the Abbey at the end of the service, and we had
+some difficulty in getting away from the various guides
+who haunt the church and fall upon strangers. We
+wandered about with Jusserand for our cicerone. He
+knows everything about everything, and we had an interesting
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_278" title="pg 278"> </a>
+hour. Some of the old tombs are so curious.
+We got back to the Embassy for tea, having enjoyed ourselves
+immensely. I think in her heart Jean was rather
+shocked at the Aquarium performance&mdash;didn't think it
+was exactly the place for me&mdash;that was the reason I liked
+it, I suppose, I am so often now in the place where I
+ought to be.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+June 12, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>It is beautiful again to-day. We had a nice canter
+in the Row. Everyone was talking about the German
+Emperor, and speculating over the future. There is a
+curious mistrust of the young Prince. No one seems
+to know exactly what he will do, and what will be his
+attitude toward England. This afternoon we have been
+out to Chiswick with the Florians, and Francis, to
+launch a torpilleur built for the French Navy by
+Thornycroft. We found Thornycroft and some of his
+friends waiting for us at the entrance of the dockyard.
+They took us to a platform covered with red cloth erected
+quite close to the boat&mdash;which was prettily dressed with
+flags&mdash;the men said her shape was wonderful (for a torpilleur,
+which never can be graceful). They gave me a
+bottle of champagne, and told me what to do. I flung
+the bottle as hard as I could against the stern of the boat,
+saying "Success to the 'Coureur.'" It broke into a thousand
+pieces, the champagne spattering all over my dress.
+We then adjourned to a summer-house overlooking the
+river for tea, and afterward went over the boat. There
+are accommodations (such as they are) for two officers
+and nine men, but it must be most uncomfortable, particularly
+in rough weather. However, she was built for
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_279" title="pg 279"> </a>
+speed, Thornycroft told us, and everything was suppressed
+that was not absolutely necessary. I hope she
+will make a good record.</p>
+
+<p class="author">June 13th.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday I decided quite suddenly to go to Ascot. It
+was a beautiful day, not too hot, and the Florians were
+quite ready to go with me. W. hates races and a long
+day in the country. We got down all right, hearing
+vague rumours on the way about the Emperor's death,
+but the Royal box was open, prepared evidently for the
+Princes, and there were quantities of people on the lawn.
+We were standing near the gate waiting to see the procession
+appear, when suddenly Lord Coventry, Master
+of the Buckhounds, rode in alone. Instantly everyone
+said there must be bad news from the German Emperor
+(which was true). The Prince of Wales had a telegram,
+just as he was getting into his carriage, from the Queen,
+to say the news was very bad, and none of them must go
+to the races. Very soon some of the gentlemen of the
+Prince's party arrived, among others Karolyi, who said
+the Emperor was dying&mdash;dead probably at that moment.
+The Prince's servants and lunch were sent back as soon
+as possible (of course all their provisions and servants
+had been sent to Ascot, as they have a big lunch party
+there every day), so we all lunched with Lord Coventry.
+I went up after lunch to the top of the stand to
+see the race, and had the satisfaction of seeing the French
+horse come in an <em>easy</em> last.</p>
+
+<p>We went to tea with Lady Diana Huddleston, who has
+a pretty cottage close to the course, and sat under the
+trees some time. I had refused a dinner in London, and
+was in no hurry to get back. We quite expected to see
+the Emperor's death in the evening papers, but he seems
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_280" title="pg 280"> </a>
+to have rallied again a little. Poor man, how terrible it
+is the way he fights for his life&mdash;and he has known from
+the first, they say, that there was no hope. I am so
+sorry for her&mdash;she is so clever, so ambitious, and would
+have done so much for Germany.</p>
+
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Woburn Abbey</span>,<br >
+June 15, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived here yesterday for tea. It had rained
+hard in the morning. W. and I were riding and were
+taking our usual quick canter at the far end of the Park
+(Marble Arch) when the storm began. We got home
+as fast as we could, but were dripping, both of us. The
+water poured off my hat like a shower-bath when I
+took it off. We had just time to get dry and dress before
+starting for the station where we found the Duke's
+<sup><a href="#fn10" id="r10">[10]</a></sup>
+r&eacute;gisseur waiting for us with a "wagon-salon." We
+had a short railway journey through pretty English
+village country; then a drive of half an hour brought
+us here. The Park is enormous, fine trees and beautifully
+green&mdash;such a rest after London smoke. The
+house is very large, with a great square court and
+corridors running all around it filled with family and
+historical pictures. The Duchess and her daughters
+were waiting for us in the morning room. We had
+tea and almost immediately went upstairs, as it was
+late. I have a charming big room with such views
+over the Park. There are always in these large houses
+lovely bits of old furniture, pictures, old china, etc.
+The dinner was handsome&mdash;quantities of gold and silver
+plate, and the table covered with azaleas. The Duke
+talked a great deal. He speaks French and German like
+a native (was brought up in Germany) and has the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_281" title="pg 281"> </a>
+courteous, dignified manner of the old-fashioned English
+gentleman&mdash;a little stiff perhaps (they say people, even
+his children, are afraid of him), but I find him most attractive,
+particularly in these days when people haven't
+time apparently to be polite. The house party is small&mdash;Lord
+Tavistock, son of the house, with his handsome
+wife, Lady Ampthill, widow of Lord Ampthill (whom
+you will remember well as Odo Russell in Rome, and who
+was for years British Ambassador in Berlin). We saw
+him there when we stopped three or four days on our
+way to Moscow for the Coronation. They loved him in
+Berlin, just as they did in Rome. Do you remember how
+much put out all the women were there when his engagement
+was announced? Lady Ampthill looks sad, and is
+of course most anxious about the Emperor Frederick, and
+eager for news, she knew him and the Empress so well
+at Berlin. There is also B&ouml;hm, the sculptor, and one or
+two young men. The evening was short, everyone
+talking of course about the Emperor. The Duke says his
+death will be an immense loss to the whole world. The
+ladies came upstairs about 10.30&mdash;the men went to the
+smoking-room. This morning it is showery&mdash;I didn't
+go down to breakfast, but about 12.30 I found my way
+to the drawing-room, and the Duchess showed me the
+house before lunch. It would take weeks to see all that
+is in it. The gallery that runs round the court is filled
+with portraits of Russells of every degree, also various
+Kings and Queens of England. There are splendid pictures
+all over the house&mdash;one drawing-room absolutely
+panelled with Canalettos. When we had been over the
+house we went into the garden to dedicate a fountain
+which B&ouml;hm had made, and also to see a full length
+statue of the Duchess which he had also just completed
+for the garden. I am very glad to know B&ouml;hm. He is
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_282" title="pg 282"> </a>
+intelligent and sympathetic, original too. He and W.
+had a long talk last night in the "fumoir," and it seems
+he was much struck with W. and said afterward to the
+Duke "Der weiss alles."</p>
+
+<p>After lunch, just as we were starting to have tea at
+Ampthill, we received two telegrams&mdash;one from the Embassy,
+and one from Deichmann&mdash;telling of the Emperor's
+death at 11 this morning&mdash;so that long struggle is
+over. We drove over to Ampthill, and walked about in
+the garden with umbrellas and waterproofs, but of course
+the place looked triste and dark as there are great trees
+close to the house. There was a very good picture of
+Lord Ampthill in one of the drawing-rooms, and souvenirs
+of their diplomatic life in every direction; signed
+photographs of all sorts of distinguished people&mdash;snuff-boxes,
+medals, etc.</p>
+
+<p class="author">June 16th.</p>
+
+<p>It is still grey and damp, but no rain. The Duchess
+took us for a beautiful <em>grass</em> drive through miles of
+rhododendrons, quite enchanting&mdash;I have never seen
+anything like it;&mdash;but again the want of sunlight made
+a great difference. The contrast between the deep green
+of the lawn and the extraordinary amount and variety
+of colour was most striking. We left about 3&mdash;immediately
+after lunch. I had quite a talk with the Duke
+while we were waiting for the carriage. He told me he
+had been so pleased to have had W. at his house and to
+hear him talk. He said&mdash;"I am not a Republican, but
+I must say that so long as the Republic finds men like
+him to serve her, there can be nothing better for France."</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, June 24th.</p>
+
+<p>We all went to the funeral service for the Emperor
+Frederick this morning, all of us smothered in cr&ecirc;pe with
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_283" title="pg 283"> </a>
+long cr&ecirc;pe veils. It was precisely the same service over
+again as we had had for the old Emperor a few months
+ago. The heat was something awful&mdash;so many people&mdash;and
+it was very long. I dined in the evening at Hurlingham
+with Sir Roderick Cameron, and that was nice; deliciously
+cool, lights all about the place, and the Hungarian
+band playing.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+July 12, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>Last night I had a novel and most amusing experience.
+I went with Count and Countess de Florian (they are always
+ready to do anything I want) to dine at the Mansion
+House. W. could not go. As soon as we arrived they
+roared out my name, or rather my official title&mdash;"Her Excellency
+the French Ambassadress," and I walked alone
+(the Florians a little behind) up the great hall lined with
+people to where the Lord Mayor was standing, with his
+robes, chains, etc., a mace-bearer on one side, and a sort
+of trumpeter on the other. He stood quite still until I
+got close to him, then shook hands and asked my permission
+to remove his robes (ermine). We then went in
+to dinner. The Lord Mayor and his wife sat side by
+side, and I was on his right. The dinner was fairly good
+(a regular banquet, 70 or 80 people), with music and
+speeches. I rather like the ceremony of the "loving cup."
+The cup was a handsome heavy gold tankard, with
+handles and a cover, and was brought first to the Lord
+Mayor. He rose&mdash;I did the same, and he asked me to
+take off the cover, which I did, and held it while he drank.
+Then he wiped the edge with his napkin, and passed it to
+me. The man next to me got up and held the cover
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_284" title="pg 284"> </a>
+while I drank. (The cup is very heavy and I had to
+take it with both hands.) The same ceremony was repeated
+all around the enormous table, and it was a pretty
+and curious sight to see a couple always standing&mdash;the
+women in full dress and jewels standing out well between
+the black coats of the men. It seems it is a very
+old custom, a remnant of rough feudal times, when the
+man drinking was obliged to have a friend standing next
+to him, to ward off a possible blow, his hands being occupied.
+I don't know what we drank&mdash;I should think a
+sort of hot spiced wine. Of course one just touches the
+edge of the cup. A wonderful man, in old-fashioned
+garb and a stentorian voice, stood always behind the Lord
+Mayor's chair, and called out all the names, toasts, etc.
+We went in afterward to Mrs. Oppenheim, who had a
+musical party&mdash;all the pretty women, and Mme. Nordica
+singing beautifully, with the orchestra of the Opera.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+July 14, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>I am rather tired to-night, but I think you must hear
+about the com&eacute;die while it is still fresh in my mind. It
+really went very well. We arranged a sort of rampe
+with flowers and ribbons (Th&eacute;nard's suggestion) at the
+end of the ball-room, and made up the background with
+screens, curtains, etc. The little troupe had been well
+drilled by Th&eacute;nard, who took a great deal of trouble, not
+only with their diction, but with their movements. At
+first they were always standing in a heap and tumbling
+over each other, or insisting upon turning their backs to
+the audience. "Ce n'est pas bien joli, ce que vous montrez
+au public, mes enfants," says Th&eacute;nard. Here is the
+programme:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_285" title="pg 285"> </a></p>
+
+<h2>A FRENCH COMEDY</h2>
+
+<h2>AMBASSADE DE FRANCE &Agrave; LONDRES</h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Samedi</span>, 14 <span class="smcap">Juillet</span>, 1888</h3>
+<hr>
+<h2>L'EDUCATION &Agrave; LA MODE</h2>
+
+<h4>PAR BERQUIN</h4>
+
+<table style="width:75%; margin:auto">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">MADAME VERTEUIL</td>
+<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Mlle. B&eacute;atrice de Bunsen</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">MADAME BEAUMONT</td>
+<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Mlle. de Langhe</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">L&Eacute;ONORA, sa ni&egrave;ce</td>
+<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Lady Mary Pepys</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">DIDIER, son neveu  <br >M. DUPAS, Ma&icirc;tre de danse</td>
+<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">M. Francis Waddington</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">TRUETTE, soubrette</td>
+<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Mlle. Cameron</span></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<p>I was very proud of my little troupe. B&eacute;atrice looked
+very well and stately in powder, black satin, and lace.
+Mile. de Langhe and Daisy very well got up, and the two
+children charming. Lady Mary Pepys was too sweet,
+and they danced their minuet perfectly. There were roars
+of laughter when Francis appeared as "Ma&icirc;tre de
+Danse" with a white wig and his violin. The children
+were not at all shy, enjoyed themselves immensely. B.
+was a little "&eacute;mue" at first when she saw how many
+people there were, but it didn't last and she was excellent,
+so perfectly correct, and unfrivolous, and boring.
+Francis said his little poetry, "Le bon G&icirc;te" of D&eacute;roul&egrave;de,
+quite prettily. W. was rather surprised and quite pleased,
+and Th&eacute;nard beamed, as she had coached him. She recites
+some of those "Chants du Soldat" of D&eacute;roul&egrave;de's
+divinely. It is a perfect treat to hear her recite in her beautiful
+rich voice "Le Petit Clairon," also "La Fianc&eacute;e du
+Timbalier," with an accompaniment of soft music.</p>
+
+<p>All the children (as we had invited Francis's young
+friends to see the performance) had tea together afterward,
+and they wound up with a dance. The men of the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_286" title="pg 286"> </a>
+Embassy were much pleased, particularly Jusserand, who
+is rather "difficile." They complimented B. very much;
+said she spoke so distinctly and with very little accent. It
+was rather trying for her to play before all the Embassy
+and an ex-member of the Com&eacute;die Fran&ccedil;aise. Francis's
+blue velvet coat and lace ruffles were very becoming to
+him. Wolff told him how to hold his violin, I wish you
+could have seen it. It was much prettier than the original
+little play at Bourneville, when we executed as well
+as we could a menuet.</p>
+
+<p>We had a very select public, among others Wyndham
+of the Criterion, who is an interesting man and a
+charming actor. When you come over I will take you
+to see his David Garrick, which I consider a perfect
+bit of acting. I wrote and asked him to "assister aux
+d&eacute;buts d'un jeune collaborateur." The funny formal
+old-fashioned Berquin phrases amused him. He knows
+French well.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, August.</p>
+
+<p>We have decided to go to Scotland with Sir Roderick
+Cameron and his family, and are starting in a day or
+two. London is dull and empty, has suddenly become
+a deserted city. Even the shops are empty, and the
+Park a wilderness. All our colleagues have gone. I
+think W. is the only Ambassador in London, and he
+wants to get off to France and have a few days on the
+Aisne before he goes to the Conseil G&eacute;n&eacute;ral. We means
+Francis and me for Scotland.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Inveraylort</span>,<br >
+August 17, 1888.</p>
+
+<p>I will try and give you an account of our journey, Dear.
+We arrived in this most lovely place for late dinner yesterday,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_287" title="pg 287"> </a>
+and went almost at once to bed, having begun our
+day at 7 o'clock. We left London Tuesday morning by
+the Flying Scotchman, and a tremendous pace we came.
+There were quantities of people at the station, all going
+apparently by our train&mdash;children, dogs, guns, fishing
+rods, provision baskets, tall footmen racing after distracted
+French maids, and piles of luggage. We had our
+saloon carriage reserved (as we were a fair party&mdash;C.,
+the four girls, Duncan, a friend Miss W., Francis and
+I and two or three maids). We had also a fair amount
+of baskets, shawls, cushions, etc. It was a lovely morning,
+not too warm, and I think W., who came down to
+the station to see us off, was half sorry he was not
+going too.</p>
+
+<p>We stopped for luncheon at York, and got to Edinburgh
+at 6.30. The pace was frightful, but we went so
+smoothly that one hardly realised the speed. We went
+straight to the hotel to see our rooms and order dinner,
+and then went out for a walk. The streets were
+crowded; omnibuses and cabs with luggage in every direction.
+The old town and castle looked most picturesque
+in the soft summer light. Daisy and I went out
+again after dinner, and after loitering a little near the
+hotel we saw a tramcar, asked where it went, and
+mounted on the top, telling the man we would go as far
+as we could, and then come back. It was a beautiful
+moonlight night, and we were very cool and comfortable
+perched on the top of the car. When the man came to
+get the money for the places I discovered that I had no
+change&mdash;merely a sovereign. The old gentleman, a tall,
+white-bearded Scotchman, grumbled a good deal, and
+made various uncomplimentary remarks to himself in a
+low tone. However after some little time he appeared
+with a handful of silver. I took the money mechanically
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_288" title="pg 288"> </a>
+and began to stuff it into my portemonnaie, as he looked
+at me severely and said&mdash;"First count your money to see
+that it is right, and then give me what you owe for your
+places."</p>
+
+<p>We were up early the next morning&mdash;breakfasted at 9
+o'clock as we wanted to see a little of Edinburgh before
+starting for Oban at 12 o'clock. It was an enchanting
+morning, not too warm, and we went first to the Castle.
+There is not much to see inside&mdash;always a beautiful view
+of sea and hills. There is a chapel and some old rooms
+which various Kings and Queens of Scotland have inhabited
+at various times. A company of Highlanders in
+Cameron plaids were being exercised in the courtyard,
+and a fine stalwart set of men they were.</p>
+
+<p>From there we drove through some of the old streets
+(Cannongate, etc.) to Holyrood, which was most interesting.
+The children of course were most anxious to see
+the spot where Rizzio was murdered, and the blood-stains
+on the floor, but they have disappeared years ago. We
+were delighted with the pictures. There are quantities
+of course of Mary, Queen of Scots&mdash;one large portrait
+with that beautiful, sad Stuart face&mdash;as if they all foresaw
+their destinies. I had forgotten how small and low
+the rooms are. In these luxurious days no ordinary lady
+would be satisfied with Queen Mary's bedroom and boudoir;
+and the servants, accustomed to be quite as comfortable
+as their masters, would give warning at once.
+We drove straight from the Palace to the station, where
+our carriage was waiting for us. All our wraps,
+cushions, etc., neatly arranged; and started for Oban,
+a most lovely journey, particularly all about Loch Awe.
+We got to Oban about 7, and I shall often think of that
+lovely evening. The harbour filled with yachts and sail-boats
+of all kinds&mdash;the water blue and dancing, and the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_289" title="pg 289"> </a>g
+most divine soft pink lights on the hills, a little like what
+we used to love at Capri and Ischia&mdash;quite beautiful.
+Daisy and I did some shopping before dinner&mdash;bought
+clean collars for the children, who were decidedly the
+worse for the two days' journey, and we also interviewed
+the well-known Ewan at the tartan shop with a view
+to kilted skirts. D. found their tartan at once of course
+as there are so many Camerons&mdash;ours was rather more
+difficult as there are few <em>Chisholms</em> left (my Mother-in-law
+was born Chisholm) and the authorities in London
+told us we could certainly wear the family plaid. The
+shop people promised to get it for me. The man was
+much interested in the skirt for Miss W. Being an
+American there was no family tartan to be looked up, and
+she couldn't quite make up her mind. However he came
+to the rescue, telling her that "all the <em>American</em> ladies
+take the Royal Stuart, Miss." We had an excellent dinner
+at the very small hotel where we were obliged to go&mdash;all
+the swell hotels were full&mdash;and there are quantities of
+people in the streets, and boats coming and going from
+the yachts. The Englishwomen all look so nice in their
+yachting dresses, almost all of dark blue serge and a sailor
+hat or regular yachting cap. The cap is rather trying,
+but the young and pretty women look charming in it.
+Some of the trippers and their ladies are wonderful to behold.
+We stood near a couple who were just starting
+for Skye on one of the steamers. The man was in a
+wonderful checked suit, and the lady in a brilliant red and
+green tartan (not unlike the Chisholm), on her head was
+a Scotch stalking cap, which was not becoming to a red,
+round face. However <em>she</em> was satisfied and so was her
+companion, who looked at her most admiringly, saying&mdash;"I
+say, you are fetching in that cap." "Il y en a pour
+tous les go&ucirc;ts." When we got back to the hotel we
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_290" title="pg 290"> </a>
+found that Sir R. had quite changed our "itin&eacute;raire."
+He had seen the boat, a fine large one which made the
+outside passage to Arishaig, so instead of taking the
+Caledonian Canal and landing at Fort William where
+carriages and carts were ordered for us, he decided that
+we should go by sea, and take our chance of finding some
+means of transport. He did, however, send a telegram
+to Arishaig, as the hotel man told him he would never
+find any conveyance for such a large party.</p>
+
+<p>We started at 9 o'clock, and the sail was enchanting.
+About 12 we ran rather close to a small headland, and
+the Captain told us we had arrived. Apparently we
+were in broad Atlantic with a rocky shore in the distance&mdash;however
+a boat appeared, one of those broad, flat boats
+which one sees all over in Scotland. Our disembarkation
+was difficult as we were 11 people with quantities of
+trunks and parcels. Happily the sea was quite smooth.
+All the passengers were wildly interested in the operation
+and crowded to the side of the steamer. When all
+the party had finally got off with trunks, bags, a bird in
+a cage, and a kitten in a basket, one of the passengers remarked&mdash;"They
+only need a pony in that boat, to make
+the party complete."</p>
+
+<p>To say we found a landing-place would be absolute
+fiction. As we neared the shore we saw a quantity of
+black, slippery rocks, and on these we landed, the boatmen
+holding the boat as near as they could, and we climbing,
+and slipping, and struggling to get on shore. Our
+baggage was dumped on the rocks and there we were&mdash;not
+a habitation or a creature in sight. At last we found
+a sort of house behind a mass of rocks, and saw several
+carriages in the distance which we supposed were for us.
+Not at all! Sir R.'s telegram had not been received and
+those were carriages waiting for a "Corps" which was
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_291" title="pg 291"> </a>
+being conveyed across on a yacht. We tried to persuade
+them to take some of us at any rate, and at last with great
+difficulty one carriage was given to us. The negotiations
+were extremely difficult, as nobody spoke anything
+but Gaelic, except an old woman, and she was so cross
+and apparently so suspicious of the whole party that we
+got on better by signs and a few extra shillings. Sir R.
+and the maids walked (4 miles through lovely country)
+and we all finally arrived at the little fishing village of
+Arishaig, where there is a good inn. It is a little place,
+three or four fishermen's cottages, a post-office, and two
+churches, a large Roman Catholic Cathedral and a small
+Established Church. We had a good lunch and
+started at 3.30, getting here at 5.30. Such a beautiful
+drive&mdash;all blue sky, and heather almost as blue&mdash;and great
+grey mountains. We walked up two very steep hills, but
+had such glorious views at the top that we didn't mind the
+climb.</p>
+
+<p>This place is charming&mdash;the house fairly large. It
+stands low on the lake or arm of the sea, and has pine
+woods and high mountains behind. It is absolutely lonely&mdash;no
+houses near, except one or two (agent's and farmer's)
+that belong to the estate. The country is lovely,
+wild and picturesque, but it would be a terrible place to
+be in except with a large party. There is nothing nearer
+than 10 miles, and no real village or settlement for 25.
+We are about half way between Fort William and Arishaig
+(each 20 or 25 miles away). I think all our provisions
+come from Fort William. A stage passes twice
+a day, morning and evening. Our baggage arrived at
+10.30, and we were all glad to go to bed, as we had begun
+our day early. It is so still to-night&mdash;I am writing
+in my room&mdash;the lake looks beautiful in the moonlight,
+and there is not a sound.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_292" title="pg 292"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Inveraylort</span>,<br >
+Sunday, August 19th.</p>
+
+<p>We have settled down most comfortably in the house,
+which is fairly large, but we are never indoors except to
+eat and sleep. We had a lovely drive yesterday all
+through this property, and to a neighbour's where there is
+a pillar to show where Prince Charlie landed. There are
+many Roman Catholics in these parts, which accounts for
+the large church in the little fishing village of Arishaig.</p>
+
+<p>This morning we had a service in the "Wash-house"&mdash;a
+red-headed Scotch peasant was the "Minister." It
+was a curious sort of independent service, impromptu
+prayers, and a long sermon. The congregation consisted
+of ourselves and the household. Miss Cameron, the
+owner of this place, who is staying at her agent's cottage
+on the place, some friends of hers, and the people of the
+little inn where the daily coach from Fort William stops
+for rest and luncheon. There are no other habitations of
+any kind except a few crofters' cottages across the lake.
+After luncheon we went for a long walk along the stream
+where there are plenty of fish, and came home over the
+hills. They are blue and deep purple, with heather, and
+there are divine views in every direction.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, August 22d.</p>
+
+<p>It is again a beautiful day. We intended to row down
+to see some friends of Sir R.'s about 5 or 6 miles off
+at the mouth of the lake, where it runs into the sea,
+but there is some trouble about the boats. Our "propri&eacute;taire,"
+Miss C., seems to have singular ideas as to the
+respective rights of owners and tenants. It was so fine
+and cool that we decided to walk, and the B.'s promised
+to send us back in their boat. It was long, but the path
+was not too steep all along the lake, and we arrived not
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_293" title="pg 293"> </a>
+too exhausted. They gave us tea, showed us the house
+and garden, and we started back about 9. The row home
+was enchanting, but weird&mdash;not a thing to be seen of any
+kind, except seals, which came up close to the boat. I
+had never seen one near, and thought at first they were
+dogs and was so surprised to see so many swimming
+about; not a sound except the splash of our oars in the
+water when we turned our backs to the sea, the heather-covered
+mountains shutting us in on all sides. It was
+quite wild and beautiful, but a solitude that would be
+appalling if one lived altogether in the country.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Inveraylort</span>, August 27th.</p>
+
+<p>After all they are not going to stay the month, Sir R.
+and his proprietor can't come to terms, and I think they
+will probably take a yacht and cruise about a little. The
+lake is decidedly rough this morning, but still we thought
+we must row across to some crofters' cottages. They
+told us they were of the poorest description, and we
+wanted to see what their life and houses were. Most
+wretched little houses (our horses much better off in their
+stables), generally one room, sometimes two; no floor,
+merely the earth trodden hard, and covered with straw.
+To-day it had been raining; there were puddles in the
+corners and the straw was decidedly damp. A peat fire
+was burning, and the only opening (no window) was
+a hole in the thatched roof, which lets the smoke out
+and the rain in. An old woman was spinning and an
+old man was sitting in the corner mending a fishing net.
+They were tall, gaunt figures&mdash;might be any age. They
+spoke nothing but Gaelic, but soon a young woman appeared
+on the scene who knew English. She looked as
+old as her mother, but had a keen, sharp face. I was
+rather interested in the spinning-wheel, so the two
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_294" title="pg 294"> </a>
+women suggested that I should try; but I could do
+nothing. Either I went too fast and broke the yarn,
+or else the wheel remained absolutely motionless. I
+bought some yarn, as I had broken various bits, and
+then we started home, carrying away an impression of
+wretched poverty and hard lives of toil, with little to
+lighten the burden.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Oban</span>, August 29th.</p>
+
+<p>We are back here after a most eventful journey from
+Inveraylort. We started in the rain, the mist closing
+round us and blotting out the whole landscape. We had
+two carriages, but the pony cart came to grief, and the
+two girls and Francis were thrown out. Miss W. had
+an ugly cut on her face, but poor N. was lying on the
+ground, pale and suffering, convinced that her arm was
+broken. When we got up to them we took her into the
+waggonette and got on as quickly as we could to Caupar,
+our destination, where we had been told of a wonderful
+bone-setter who was well known in all these parts. He
+saw at once what was wrong&mdash;her shoulder was dislocated,
+and said she must not continue the journey, so
+we left her there with her sister and brother, and we
+came on here. They all appeared this afternoon&mdash;N.
+with her arm in a sling and looking fairly well. She
+said the man set it so quickly and gently she hardly had
+time to feel any pain.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Oban</span>,<br >
+September 3d.</p>
+
+<p>We had a beautiful day yesterday for our excursion
+to Staffa and Iona. The sea was perfectly calm, and
+the lights and shades on the mountains enchanting. It
+was a lovely sail; sometimes we ran into little shaded
+harbours with two or three cottages and a hotel perched
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_295" title="pg 295"> </a>
+high up on the top of a mountain, and sometimes passed
+so close to land under the great cliffs that one could
+throw a stone on the shore. The islands are most interesting,
+with their old churches and their curious stone
+crosses, and there were not too many people on the boat.
+The return was delicious as we sat on deck, watching all
+the colours fade away from sea and hills.</p>
+
+<p>We leave to-morrow for London and Paris, and I am
+very sorry to go. We have enjoyed our three weeks
+immensely. The country is so beautiful, and then it was
+a great pleasure to be with some of my own people; we
+have been away so long that the family ties get weaker.
+Francis was quite happy with some cousins to run about
+with.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+May 21, 1889.</p>
+
+<p>I got back from Paris last night, rather sorry to come.
+The weather was enchanting, warm and bright, and, of
+course, quantities of people for the Exhibition. It isn't
+half ready yet, but is most interesting&mdash;so much to see.
+I dined and breakfasted there several times at the various
+restaurants&mdash;one evening with the Walter Burns and
+a party, and we went afterward to see the "fontaines
+lumineuses," which are really fairy-like; but such a
+crowd. I also heard the two American prima donnas&mdash;Miss
+Eames, who is very handsome, has a fresh,
+young voice, and is an ideal Juliette. She is a vision
+really in her bridal dress as Juliette. Miss Sanderson
+is also very handsome, but in quite a different style.
+Her voice is very high and true; she was singing "Esclarmonde"
+at the Op&eacute;ra Comique. Massenet has taught
+her everything. I have found quantities of invitations
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_296" title="pg 296"> </a>
+here, in fact was obliged to come over, as we have a big
+dinner the day after to-morrow, and the Court ball.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Tuesday, May 28, 1889.</p>
+
+<p>We had our first encounter with Boulanger this morning.
+W. and I were walking our horses down the Row
+when we met three gentlemen cantering toward us. As
+they passed we heard they were speaking French, but
+didn't pay any particular attention. I merely said, "I
+wonder who those men are," one so rarely hears French
+spoken in the Row. A few minutes later we met Lord
+Charles Beresford, who took a little turn with us, and
+said to W., "The other distinguished Frenchman is also
+in the Row,"&mdash;then we divined. A few moments afterward
+(the Row is so small one crosses people all the
+time) we met them again, Boulanger in the middle riding
+his famous black horse&mdash;a man on each side riding
+good horses, chestnuts. They all wore top-hats, which no
+Englishmen do now in the morning. The men all wear
+low hats, the women also, and covert coats, the girls
+cotton blouses; not at all the correct style we used to
+admire as children in <em>Punch</em> when those beautiful women
+of Leech's riding in the Park filled our childish hearts
+with envy. I was rather curious as to what would happen,
+as W. knows Boulanger slightly, and went to him
+when he was Minister of War about something concerning
+the military attach&eacute;; however, there was no difficulty,
+as Boulanger was apparently too engrossed in
+conversation with his companions to notice anyone. I
+wonder if we shall meet him anywhere? They tell us
+that some of the society people mean to invite him, but I
+suppose they will scarcely ask us together.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_297" title="pg 297"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, May 30th.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday was the last Drawing-room of this season.
+I rather feel as if it were my last in London, but one
+never knows. We (Corps Diplomatique) were still all
+in black, the English in colours. It was long and tiring.
+We dined at Lord Sudeley's&mdash;I rather wishing I had no
+engagement. I am always tired after those hours of
+standing, and the diadem is heavy, and the train, too,
+held over one's arm; however, I was quite repaid, as I
+had a charming neighbour. I didn't know at all who
+he was, as they rarely introduce in England, so we embarked
+on one of those banal, inane conversations one
+has with a stranger of whom one knows nothing, and
+were talking on smoothly about nothing at all, when he
+remarked, casually, "I suppose you never go to church."
+This I at once resented vehemently, so he explained that
+he didn't know, as I was a Frenchwoman, probably a
+Catholic (as if they didn't go to church), etc. He
+turned out to be Canon Rogers, a charming, intelligent,
+well-known man, most independent in his words and
+actions. He is rector of St. Botolph's, a church in
+Bishopsgate, the most disreputable part of London. We
+became great friends, and he asked me if I would go
+and lunch with him one Sunday, and he would show me
+Petticoat Lane. I agreed of course, and we decided for
+next Sunday. He said he had never had a French lady
+and an Ambassadress as a guest, and didn't quite know
+what to do. Should he ask the Prince of Wales and
+order champagne? I told him my tastes were very
+simple, and if I might bring my cousin Hilda, and one
+of the Secretaries, I should be quite happy&mdash;also I liked
+apple-pie, which he says his cook makes very well. I
+haven't had such a pleasant dinner for a long time.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_298" title="pg 298"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">Monday, June 3d.</p>
+
+<p>We made our expedition to Bishopsgate yesterday,
+and most interesting it was. I went with Hilda and M.
+Lecomte, one of the secretaries, who knows English, and
+is very keen to see anything a little out of the way. We
+had a long drive to the church through the city, and
+arrived only to hear the end of Canon Rogers' sermon,
+which was strong and practical. As soon as the service
+was over we went down to the door and found him and
+his curate waiting for us. The first thing he did was
+to send away my carriage, which had already attracted
+much attention with the tall footman, velvet breeches,
+cockades, etc. He said he would never venture into
+Petticoat Lane in such an equipage, and would we please
+share his modest conveyance; so Hilda and I got into
+his victoria, and Lecomte and the curate walked close
+to the carriage behind. We had two policemen in front,
+two behind, and a detective. I rather demurred to such
+a display of municipal strength on my account, but he
+said it was necessary, he much preferred having them,
+he was afraid people would crowd around us and insist
+upon my buying something. The street was narrow,
+crowded with people, as there was also a fair going on
+and everything imaginable being sold (it is the one place
+in London where you can buy <em>one</em> shoe or <em>one</em> stocking!).
+The people were almost all Jews, and I must say they
+were a bad-looking lot, frightfully rough specimens.
+Some of the women, girls too, with such sullen, scowling
+faces. We went at a foot's pace (the only carriage),
+and hadn't the slightest difficulty in making our way.
+Everyone knew Mr. Rogers and spoke to him&mdash;"Good
+morning, Governor," "God bless you, Sir." Two or
+three children ran up to him, one a pretty little dark-eyed
+girl breathless to tell him she was in church, though she
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_299" title="pg 299"> </a>
+came late. He was so nice to them all, called them all by
+name, patted the children on the head, and exhorted some
+of the women to keep their husbands out of the drinking
+shops, and to wash their children's faces. They say he
+does an immense amount of good down there, but it must
+be uphill work. I have rarely seen such a forbidding
+looking set of people. Some of the women came up
+rather close to the low victoria and made comments on
+our garments. (We had dressed very simply at his
+request. I wore my blue foulard and a blue straw bonnet
+with iris on it. Hilda was in light grey with a black hat.)
+"You have got a beautiful bonnet, my lady. Oh, look at
+her umbrell!" The "umbrell" excited much attention. I
+couldn't think why at first, as it was also rather dark and
+plain; when I remembered that it had a watch in the
+handle upon which, of course, all eyes were fixed. I
+think the detective kept his eye upon it too, as he came
+up rather close on my side. The detective took Lecomte
+to a famous jeweller's shop near in Whitechapel, where
+there had been a murder some days ago. We drove all
+through the fair surrounded by these villainous faces
+(here and there a pretty, fair, innocent, childish face) and
+I wasn't sorry to get back to civilisation and the rectory,
+though I am very glad to have seen it. The rectory is a
+large old-fashioned house in Devonshire Square, shut in
+with high houses and high trees, and never, I should
+think, could a ray of sunshine get anywhere near it.
+One felt miles away from London and life of any kind.
+It was a curious contrast to the turbulent, noisy, seething
+crowd we had just left. We had a charming breakfast,
+Mr. Rogers talking all the time delightfully, so
+original and so earnest, convinced that everyone in their
+small circle could do so much to help, not only the poor
+but the really bad, if only by example and a little sympathy;
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_300" title="pg 300"> </a>
+he says no one ever helps the bad ones, only the
+deserving poor get looked after.</p>
+
+<p>About 3.30 we started again to see the People's Palace,
+which he takes great interest in, and hopes he may
+succeed in keeping the men away from the drinking
+shops in the evening. It looked comfortable and practical,
+the reading-room particularly, which is large and
+airy, with all sorts of morning and evening papers (some
+foreign ones), illustrated papers, and good, standard
+books. The librarian told me that Walter Scott was
+always asked for, also some American books, particularly
+Indian stories, and travels of all kinds. I was
+rather interested in hearing that, as whenever W. gives
+books to a school library, or prizes in France, Walter
+Scott or Fenimore Cooper are still the favourites (translated,
+of course. I read the "Last of the Mohicans"
+in French, and it was very well done). There were not
+many people, but Mr. Rogers says on a fine, warm Sunday
+they all prefer to be in the open air. There is also
+a large swimming bath, given by Lord Rosebery. We
+parted from our host at the door, having had a delightful
+afternoon. It is a long time since I have heard anyone
+talk who interested me so much.</p>
+
+<p>The drive home along the Embankment was nice&mdash;quantities
+of people out, quite like a Sunday in France.
+We dined quietly at home. W. was much interested in
+my day. I think if he had known exactly where I was
+going, and that an escort of police was necessary, he
+wouldn't have agreed to the expedition.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, June 4, 1889.</p>
+
+<p>The Court Ball was brilliant last night. The Prince
+opened the ball with Princess Louise, and the Princess
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_301" title="pg 301"> </a>
+with Lord Fife. The engagement of Princess Louise of
+Wales to Lord Fife is just announced, and has of course
+created quite a sensation. Of course there are two currents
+of opinion&mdash;the old-fashioned people are rather
+shocked at the idea of a Royal Princess marrying a subject;
+but I fancy the entourage of the Prince and Princess
+of Wales are pleased,&mdash;and Fife is a general favourite.
+It is not very easy for the English princesses to
+marry. They <em>must</em> marry Protestants, and there are not
+many Protestant princes who are not near relations.</p>
+
+<p>I talked a little to the Shah, but I didn't find that very
+amusing. He knows very little English or French, and
+has a most disagreeable way of looking hard at one. He
+planted himself directly in front of me, very close, and
+said "he thought he had seen me before," which of course
+he had, in Paris.</p>
+
+<p>It seems that one of the Princesses pointed out to him,
+in the supper-room, a lady neither very young nor very
+beautiful, who was covered with splendid jewels, thinking
+they might interest him. He stopped short in front
+of her&mdash;then turned his back at once, saying "monstre."
+They say he finds no woman handsome who has passed
+twenty.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Tuesday, July 2d.</p>
+
+<p>It was a splendid summer day yesterday, ideal, for the
+Shah's arrival by water. We drove down to the Speaker's
+to see him come. The streets were lined with troops,
+and there were quantities of people about. They let us
+drive through the Mall and to Westminster between the
+lines of soldiers (all the traffic was stopped). Almost
+all the houses and balconies on the way were draped with
+red, and crowded with women in their light, gay summer
+dresses. There were a good many people at the
+Speaker's, who gave us some tea and strawberries. The
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_302" title="pg 302"> </a>
+Royal Barge arrived very punctually. It was not very
+beautiful&mdash;an ordinary river steamer, painted light grey,
+with gold lines, and fitted up with palms, red cushions,
+and carpets, etc. The Thames was a pretty sight, such
+quantities of boats of all kinds. We saw everything
+quite well. There was a fair procession of state carriages,
+and an escort of Life Guards; but what a barbarian the
+Shah looks, with his embroidered coat and his big jewels,
+and his coarse, bad face&mdash;however he was smiling,
+and seemed pleased with his reception.</p>
+
+<p>We waited to let the crowd disperse a little, and then
+came home the same way through Constitution Hill. We
+met the Prince and Princess coming back from Buckingham
+Palace. Both looked very well&mdash;he in uniform, and
+she in white, extraordinarily young in face and figure.
+The two princes, Eddy and George, were with them, and
+they were much applauded as they passed. In the evening
+we had a musical party at Blumenthal's. The garden
+was lighted and everyone sitting outside. The party was
+in honour of Princess Louise, and the music very good,
+as it always is there. Mdme. Grondal, a Swedish woman,
+played beautifully, and Plunkett Greene sang very well.
+He always brings down the house with "I'm Off to Philadelphy
+in the Morning." Lord Lorne took me to supper.
+I always like to talk to him. He was not much impressed
+with his Persian Majesty either&mdash;thought the
+days of Eastern potentates were over. I asked him what
+he had come for, and why the English were so civil to
+him; to which he replied, "Oh, I suppose some of the
+swells want concessions, or railways."</p>
+
+<p class="author">Monday, July 8, 1889.</p>
+
+<p>We went to Hatfield this morning, where there was a
+luncheon party for the Shah. It was decidedly grey and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_303" title="pg 303"> </a>
+uncertain, in fact, raining a little when we started, and
+I looked once or twice at my cr&egrave;me linon trimmed with
+Valenciennes&mdash;but as I had ordered it especially for that
+occasion, I decided to wear it. I put on a long cloak for
+the train. The Hatfield parties are always very well arranged&mdash;trains
+starting every ten minutes. It is hardly
+three-quarters of an hour from London. There were
+lots of people, and the short trajet passed quickly enough.
+All the women were looking at each other to see the
+dresses, as the weather was really bad. At Hatfield, one
+of Lord Salisbury's sons was at the station to receive the
+swells. I got separated in the crowd from W., so Lord
+Edward put me into a brougham, and asked me if I
+would take another Ambassador, as mine was missing
+for the moment. I agreed, of course, so Comte Hatzfeldt
+came with me. There was a large party staying in
+the house, including the Prince and Princess, the Shah,
+and various members of the family and Court. Lady
+Salisbury was standing at one of the big doors opening
+on the terrace. Lord Salisbury, she told me, was taking
+the Shah for a drive in the park. We all loitered about a
+little on the terrace. The rain had stopped and, though
+there was no sun, the house looked beautiful with its grey
+walls and splendid lines. The first person I saw was the
+Duc d'Aumale, and we had quite a talk while waiting for
+luncheon. The Prince also came out and talked. Luncheon
+was served at small, round tables in the great dining-room.
+As Doyens we were at the Royal table. The
+Prince took me, and I had next to me the Grand Vizier,
+who had taken in Lady Londonderry. She is very handsome,
+very well dressed, and the Grand Vizier enjoyed
+himself very much. It seems he is a very difficult gentleman,
+and at some man's house party, Ferdinand Rothschild's,
+I think, he was not pleased with his reception,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_304" title="pg 304"> </a>
+or his place at the table, and declined to come downstairs.
+There were about 70 people at luncheon, and as many
+more, they told me, upstairs. Quantities of flowers, silver,
+servants, etc., and a band playing. After breakfast
+we all adjourned to the terrace and some photographic
+groups were taken. There was some wonderful shooting
+by some Americans which interested the Persians very
+much, and one of the Shah's suite was most anxious to
+try his hand at it, and forcibly took a rifle from the
+American, who protested vigorously, but the Persian
+kept hold of his gun and evidently meant to shoot, so
+the American appealed directly to the Prince, saying
+there would be an accident if he was allowed to go on;
+and the Prince interfered and persuaded the irate Oriental
+to give up his weapon.</p>
+
+<p>They had asked a great many people to tea, but evidently
+the rain had kept many away. The toilettes were
+most varied&mdash;every description of costume, from the
+Duchess of Rutland in white satin and diamonds (large
+stones sewed all over the body of her dress) to the
+simplest description of blue serge, covert coat, and even
+a waterproof carried over one's arm. I was thinking of
+going to get a cup of tea, when I crossed again the Duc
+d'Aumale, who was also looking for the tea-table, so we
+went off together and had a pleasant "quart d'heure."
+He is always so nice to W. and me, and is so distinguished-looking
+wherever he is&mdash;such extraordinary
+charm of manner and so soldierly. He had been much
+amused by the stories he had heard of the eccentricities
+of the Persian suite. One of the ladies staying in the
+house found two gentlemen sitting on her bed when she
+went up to dress for dinner. I must say I think it was
+awfully good of Lady Salisbury to ask them all to stay.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus352.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the Shah of Persia, July, 8, 1889" id="illus352" title="Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the Shah of Persia, July, 8, 1889"></a>
+
+<p class="center small">Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the Shah of Persia, July, 8, 1889<br >
+The following are among those in the picture Prince of Wales Lord Salisbury Shah of
+Persia Princess of Wales Rustem Turkish Ambassador  Hatzfeldt German Ambassador
+Lord Halsbury the Lord Chancellor M de Staal Russian Ambassador Duc d'Aumale
+Countess of Cadogan M Waddington French Ambassador Madame Waddington Countess
+of Galloway Duchess of Devonshire<br >
+From a photograph by Russell &amp; Sons London</p></div>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_305" title="pg 305"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, July 27th.</p>
+
+<p>Princess Louise of Wales and Fife were married this
+morning in the small chapel at Buckingham Palace.
+Very few people were asked, no diplomats except Falbe,
+Danish Minister, who is a great favourite at Court, and
+asked always. The streets, especially Piccadilly, were
+crowded with people. We had to go round by Belgrave
+Square and Buckingham Palace to get to Marlborough
+House. We were invited at 2 o'clock to see the bride
+and the presents. The wedding party drove up just as
+we arrived. Fife's coach, dark green with green and gold
+liveries, was very handsome. The Princess of Wales
+looked radiant, and the bride charming&mdash;beautifully
+dressed and just pale enough to be interesting. The
+King of Greece and Crown Prince of Denmark were both
+there. The presents were beautiful&mdash;every imaginable
+thing in diamonds and silver. The Prince and Princess's
+tiara very handsome&mdash;also Fife's. There was a buffet
+and tea in the garden, also in the drawing-rooms; and
+we waited to see the young couple start. They looked
+very happy and smiling. Their carriage was very handsome,
+with four black horses and an outrider. Everyone
+cheered and threw rice after them. They started
+with a Royal escort, but at the top of the park Fife sent
+it back, and they made their entry into Sheen in his carriage
+only. They said he made a condition that there
+should be no lady-in-waiting, that his wife should be
+Duchess of Fife only; but of course she can never lose
+her rank. None but Ambassadors were asked to the reception
+at Marlborough House&mdash;no other diplomats.</p>
+
+<p class="author">July 30th.</p>
+
+<p>We had our last dinner this season&mdash;musical and all
+Italians, Tosti, Vinci, and Picolellis. Mme. de Florian
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_306" title="pg 306"> </a>
+came in late with her dinner guests, among others the
+Duchesse de Richelieu, who is very fond of music. Tosti
+is delightful once he gets to the piano, sings (with no
+voice) and plays whatever one wants&mdash;his own music,
+anybody's, and always so simply. It was very warm.
+We all sat and stood on the balcony when we were not
+playing and singing.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Hatfield</span>, January 8, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>We came down last night for dinner. It was very
+cold, snow and ice in London, and skating everywhere.
+We are not a very large party&mdash;the family, some of Lord
+Salisbury's secretaries, Casa Laiglesia (just made Ambassador&mdash;very
+happy. Spain had only a <em>Minister</em> here
+till now), the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, etc. After
+dinner the older members of the party played whist, and
+the young ones danced in the great hall. This time we
+have King James I.'s rooms, an enormous bed (with a
+Royal crown on the top) where he really slept. We
+have been out all day; the gentlemen went off early to
+shoot, and I got down about 12. I found some of the
+young women, Ladies Cranborne and Northcote, in the
+hall and we decided we would go and skate. It was bitterly
+cold, but no wind, and the pond is not far, just at
+the end of the terrace. There was a little wooden house
+on the edge where we put on our skates, and plenty of
+chairs and canes. Ladies Northcote and Gwendoline
+Cecil skate very well. Lady Salisbury came down to the
+pond, took a broom from one of the numerous sweepers,
+and swept hard to keep herself warm. After lunch I
+went for a sleigh ride with Lady Salisbury in a pretty
+little one-horse sleigh she had bought at the Exhibition.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_307" title="pg 307"> </a>
+It was very good going in the park, but we bumped occasionally
+going across the fields. To-night we broke up
+rather early; we were all tired with the first day's skating,
+and the men with their shooting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus356.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Lord Salisbury" id="illus356" title="Lord Salisbury"><br></a>
+
+<p class="center small"> Lord Salisbury<br >
+From a photograph by Weston &amp; Son Dover</p></div>
+
+
+<p class="author">Friday.</p>
+
+<p>It has been again a beautiful winter's day, and we have
+skated all the afternoon until dark. Lady Salisbury came
+again with her broom and swept vigorously. It seems
+many doctors recommend sweeping now for women who
+need exercise and cannot ride or walk. We tried hard
+to make Casa Laiglesia come down to the pond, but he
+refused absolutely&mdash;that was not at all his idea of pleasure.
+We spent some time in the library looking over
+some of the old manuscripts of the time of Queen Elizabeth
+and King Philip of Spain, and we saw him taking
+a short, very short turn on the terrace in the sun,
+wrapped up so as to be almost "m&eacute;connaissable."</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, January 18th.</p>
+
+<p>It is still very cold&mdash;the Serpentine is quite frozen,
+and quantities of people skating. The ice is very bad,
+rather like a ploughed field, but it is amusing to see all
+the people. We have been this afternoon to Wimbledon,
+and there it was delightful. There was quite a large
+part reserved and beautifully smooth, belonging to a
+club; so Comte de St. Genys (one of the secretaries),
+who was with us, sent in his card, saying he was there
+with the French Ambassadress; and they were most
+civil, brought us chairs, and begged us to come back
+whenever we liked. We saw some beautiful fancy skating,
+both men and women. We skated afterward a little
+on the big lake to see the people. It was a beautiful
+day, and a very pretty sight, quite like a Dutch picture.</p>
+
+<p>I was interrupted by a visit from Mr. Bryce. He
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_308" title="pg 308"> </a>
+came really to ask about you and to know if you would
+stay on at Alassio. He spoke so warmly and admiringly
+of Schuyler that it was a pleasure to hear him. He said
+he was certainly the cleverest, most cultivated American
+he had ever seen, that he had never met anyone who
+knew so many things well. He couldn't conceive how
+any Government that had such a man to place could have
+let any party feeling prevent them from giving him a
+prominent place, in their own interest.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+Thursday, February 19th.</p>
+
+<p>We have had a funny day. There was a sale of horses,
+hunters principally, at Cricklewood, a place just outside
+of London, where they have very good horses. We have
+been there several times with Deichmann, who has always
+fine horses, and have bought two or three ourselves.
+I am looking for a saddle horse, so W. and I drove out
+the other day, and I tried two which I liked very much
+(there is a riding-school where one can try). Then
+Newman, the head man, rode them over some hurdles
+to show me how well they jumped. They promised to
+let us know when the sale would be, and yesterday sent
+word we must come to-day. I drove out with Hilda in
+her pony carriage. We drew up close to the ring and
+the auctioneer's stand and saw everything well. Her
+horses were taken out and we made ourselves as comfortable
+as we could with furs and couvertures. It was
+bitterly cold, with a high wind that cut one in two. W.
+and Deichmann wandered about in the crowd. The collection
+of people was most amazing, horsey to a degree;
+horse dealers, trainers, jockeys, racing men and women&mdash;a
+few gentlemen here and there, not many. There
+was a champagne lunch going on at Newman's, but that
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_309" title="pg 309"> </a>
+we declined&mdash;so they brought us tea and excellent bread
+and butter to the carriage. The two horses I had tried
+were among the first and I hoped I should get one of
+them, but they brought much more than the dealers supposed
+they would. They looked extremely well when
+they were brought out first, galloped over the grass, and
+then jumping their hurdles beautifully, taking them easily
+in a long stride (of course they were beautifully handled,
+every point made the most of). W. made various
+bids, but when it got beyond a certain sum he wouldn't
+give any more, as it was a fancy price and could have
+gone up indefinitely. I was rather disappointed, as I had
+set my heart on the black horse. It was cold driving
+home in the teeth of the wind. We dined with the Deichmanns,
+with some of our colleagues, and everyone was
+discussing the Empress Frederick's visit to Versailles.
+Until then everything had gone most swimmingly, but
+of course all French people were "froiss&eacute;s" at that. I
+don't exactly understand her going. She is so intelligent,
+and had apparently realised quite well how difficult
+it would be for her ever to go to Paris. Years ago
+in Rome, where we met her almost every night, she told
+us she was so anxious to go to Paris, but she was afraid
+she could not manage it. She wanted very much to meet
+Renan&mdash;admired his books so much, and his great intelligence;
+and I think she would have been delighted with
+him. He was a charming talker on every subject, and
+so easy.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G.K.S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+Tuesday, March 10, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>We had an awful storm yesterday, a regular blizzard,
+and a terrible night in the Channel. One of the good
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_310" title="pg 310"> </a>
+boats, the Victoria, was out all night, not daring to land
+at either Dover or Calais. One of our young attach&eacute;s
+was on board, bringing over despatches, and they say he
+looked green when he finally did arrive. The trains were
+snowed up everywhere, even between Folkestone and
+London, and the passengers nearly frozen and starved.
+It seems incredible in such a short distance. The young
+men are generally rather eager to bring over despatches,
+but I rather think this one won't try it again, in winter
+at any rate. I am extraordinarily lucky in my crossings,
+because probably I am a good sailor. I go backward and
+forward in all seasons and always have good weather.
+The Florians have had some wonderful crossings, nine
+hours between Calais and Dover, both of them <em>tied</em> in
+their chairs, and the chairs tied to the mast.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, March 12, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday we were at Windsor to dine and sleep. The
+party was small&mdash;Staal, the Russian Ambassador, Lord
+Hartington, Sir Frederick Leighton, Lord and Lady
+Curzon, Countess Perponcher and Count Seckendorff in
+attendance on the Empress Frederick, and of course the
+regular members of the Queen's Household. Lady Antrim
+was in waiting. We assembled as usual in the long
+corridor close to the door by which the Royal party entered.
+We were all in black, as the Empress was there.
+The Queen and the Empress came in together. The
+Queen shook hands with me and the two Ambassadors&mdash;the
+Empress with me only, bowing to the others. She is
+still in deep mourning&mdash;her dress black (woollen stuff
+of some kind) covered with cr&ecirc;pe, and a cr&ecirc;pe veil arranged
+in a point, or sort of Mary Stuart cap, on the top
+of her head, and falling behind to the edge of her skirt.
+The corsage was a little open, and she had a splendid
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_311" title="pg 311"> </a>
+necklace of pearls, also a miniature of the Emperor Frederick
+set in diamonds fastened on the front of her bodice.
+The dress was very becoming&mdash;she looked very stately
+and graceful as she walked through the corridor. She
+gave her arm to the Queen, and they walked in first to
+the dining-room, the Empress sitting next to the Queen
+on her right. W. followed with Princess Beatrice, sitting
+on the Queen's left; Staal with Princess Margaretta,
+and sat on the right of the Empress. Lord Hartington
+took me. The Queen talked a great deal to W.&mdash;the
+Empress joined in occasionally. They were both
+much interested in the Protestants in France, and wanted
+to know if the feeling was as strong as in the old days
+of Huguenots and Catholics. I think there is a very
+strong feeling, and it is rare when a French Protestant
+marries a Catholic&mdash;rarer still when they become Catholics.</p>
+
+<p>The dinner is always quickly served, and the conversation
+nil. Nobody talks except those who are next the
+Princesses. The cercle was, as usual, in the corridor
+between the two doors. The Queen stood a little, but not
+all the time. She spoke to me about Johannes Wolff&mdash;admired
+his playing so much. The Empress talked a
+long time to W., and spoke immediately about her visit
+to Paris and Versailles, which was rather awkward for
+him, as he regretted very much that she had gone. All
+the first part of her stay went so well. She told W.
+she had had nothing but respect, and even sympathy
+wherever she had been, and that she was much astonished
+and distressed when she saw the papers and
+found what a storm was raging in the press. The
+Queen said a few words to me about the visit, and
+seemed to think it was a radical demonstration
+against the Government. I answered vaguely that all
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_312" title="pg 312"> </a>
+radicals made mischief&mdash;it wasn't a very easy subject
+to discuss. The cercle was not very long&mdash;about
+three-quarters of an hour&mdash;and then the Court retired,
+the two Sovereigns going out as they came in,
+together. We finished the evening in the drawing-room,
+but broke up early. W. went off to smoke, and I had a
+nice hour in the beautiful little yellow salon. I had a
+splendid fire, quantities of candles (always my mania&mdash;I
+hate lamps, particularly in these days of petroleum),
+and was quite happy. Adela&iuml;de was very eloquent over
+the style of the housekeeper's room, and was funny over
+Charles, our French footman, and his indignation at
+being excluded from the society of the valets and ladies'
+maids. W.'s man was ill, so he took the French footman,
+who has often done his service. That gentleman
+being in livery was considered one of the lower servants
+(sat some way below the salt) and when the swells (Adela&iuml;de,
+of course, included) retired to the housekeeper's
+room for dessert and coffee he remained with the under
+servants. All these domestic arrangements are quite unheard
+of in France&mdash;any distinctions of that kind would
+set the whole establishment in a storm.</p>
+
+<p>It was a cold night, snow lying thick on the ground,
+clouds dark and low, and the great towers looked grim
+and formidable. W. came in about 12&mdash;said the talk in
+the fumoir was pleasant. He likes Count Seckendorff
+very much, finds him intelligent and moderate and sensible
+in his opinions&mdash;like all men who have knocked about
+a great deal and who know, not only other countries but
+the <em>people</em> of the country. After all, churches, and palaces,
+and picture galleries have a certain "resemblance,"
+but people are different, and sometimes very interesting.
+We came away this morning at 10.30. I did not see
+anyone except Lady Antrim, as I never go to the dining-room
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_313" title="pg 313"> </a>
+for breakfast. I was ready a little before the time,
+and wandered about the corridor a little, looking at all
+the pictures. I met Staal doing the same thing. There
+is so much to see.</p>
+
+<p>It is a beautiful bright day, and Hyde Park looked
+very animated as we drove through. Everyone was
+waiting to see the Queen pass. She arrived about an
+hour after us, as there is a Drawing-room to-morrow.
+We had some music this afternoon&mdash;2 pianos, 8 hands&mdash;and
+we play rather well a splendid symphony of Brahms'&mdash;not
+at all easy. We dined with Mr. Henry Petre, one
+of the most soign&eacute; dinners in London. It is always
+pleasant at his house&mdash;they say it is because he is a bachelor,
+which is not very flattering to <em>us</em>, but I think it is
+true, I don't know why. As we were out we <em>went on</em>,
+as they say here, to Lady Aberdeen, who had a small
+dance, but did not stay very long, as it was rather a
+young company. People always say there is nothing
+going on in London before the season, but we dine out
+every night and often have (I at least) something in the
+afternoon&mdash;a tea, or music. I don't believe anybody
+ever dines at home in London. The theatres are always
+crowded, quite as much as in Paris. Hilda and I went
+the other night with Count Seckendorff to see "Charlie's
+Aunt," a ridiculous farce which is having a great success.
+He protested at first at our choice&mdash;would have
+preferred something more classic, but he was perfectly
+amused (though protesting all the time). The piece is
+absolutely stupid, but so well played that the house was
+in roars of laughter, and that is always infectious. The
+man who played the part of the maiden aunt was extraordinarily
+well got up. His black silk dress and mittens
+were lovely&mdash;he looked really a prim old spinster and
+managed his skirts so well.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_314" title="pg 314"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, April 4, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>We lunched to-day with Ferdinand Rothschild to meet
+the Empress Frederick. We were a small party, principally
+Diplomatists. The Deyms, Hatzfeldt, Soveral,
+Harry Whites, etc. The Empress came (punctually)
+with Countess Perponcher and Seckendorff. The lunch
+was very handsome, quickly served and very animated,
+everybody talked. I had Hatzfeldt on the other side (I
+sat between him and Rothschild) so I was quite happy&mdash;there
+is nobody I like so much to talk to. He is very
+clever, very entrain, speaks French beautifully and talks
+about anything&mdash;just enough "moqueur" to keep one's
+wits sharpened. We had a discussion as to what was
+the origin of "Mrs. Grundy." None of us knew. I
+must ask Jusserand, who will I am sure be able to tell us.</p>
+
+<p>We were all dressed in black velvet, one would have
+thought it was a "mot d'ordre." The Empress is very
+easy and likes to talk. She asked me if I knew D&eacute;roul&egrave;de,
+said she heard some of his poetry was charming. I
+told her the "Chants du Soldat" were delightful, but <em>I</em>
+couldn't send them to her (they are all about the Franco-German
+War). One of the ladies, Mrs. White I think,
+said she would.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Tuesday, April 21, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>We had a pleasant little dinner Sunday night for
+Wormser, the composer of "L'Enfant Prodigue," which
+has had an enormous success here. Wolff came too, and
+they played all the evening. I haven't seen the piece yet,
+so I was delighted to hear the music. I promised him I
+would go on Wednesday, my first free night.</p>
+
+<p>Last night I went with Lady Northcote to the Opera;
+it was "Lohengrin" with Miss Eames and the Reszkes.
+The girl looked beautiful, quite the patrician maiden,
+and sang very well; a little cold, but that was of less
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_315" title="pg 315"> </a>
+importance in that opera than in "Romeo and Juliet,"
+which needs more passion. The house was very full and
+she was much applauded. Jean de Reszke looked magnificent
+and sang divinely. What a voice it is, and how
+well he knows how to use it. I fancy Covent Garden is
+a much better salle to sing in than our great Paris Op&eacute;ra.
+The voices seem so far off there, and all the singers complain
+and get soon tired. W. came in late just as I did.
+He had had a delightful dinner at Mr. Murray's (the
+publisher) with Mr. Gladstone. He said Mr. G. was in
+great form, talking about everything: books, politics,
+theories, and always with a perfect knowledge of each
+subject expressed in beautiful English. He must have a
+marvellous memory.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K</em>.</h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br >
+June 6, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>You will be amused, Dear, to hear that after all we
+have decided to have the children's comedy. The moment
+is not exactly propitious in the height of the London
+season when every instant is taken, but I think we
+can make something pretty, and Mdme. Th&eacute;nard is very
+keen about it. We shall take the "Reine des F&eacute;es"&mdash;but
+very much changed, and parts added for every child&mdash;also
+a gavotte and a chorus. I saw some of the mammas,
+Countess Deym; Mdme. de Bille; Ladies Londonderry,
+Clanwilliam, etc., yesterday, and they will let me
+have their daughters. Th&eacute;nard will direct the whole
+thing, with Count de St. Genys (Secretary of the French
+Embassy in London) as r&eacute;gisseur and also d&eacute;corateur, as
+he has begun painting a charming d&eacute;cor (the interior of
+the bailiff's cottage). Mdme. de Langhe will undertake
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_316" title="pg 316"> </a>
+the ch&oelig;urs and le&ccedil;ons de diction, and I don't quite know
+yet whom we shall get for the gavotte, or how many
+children we must have. The dresses will be pretty&mdash;two
+sets&mdash;Marie Antoinette and all her ladies in powder&mdash;Trianon
+costumes&mdash;and peasants, market women, etc.
+Of course the boys are a difficulty. There are so few
+who are here of Francis's old friends&mdash;they are all at
+school. Th&eacute;nard has a little friend (girl) whom she will
+dress as a Marquis&mdash;she says she will look the part very
+well. Francis is much excited&mdash;he is to be the cruel
+bailiff who takes all the money and everything else he
+can get from the poor peasants. St. Genys will see
+about his costume, and make a croquis from some picture
+of the period.</p>
+
+<p class="author">June 12, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>We are all (except the Ambassador) perfectly taken up
+with the com&eacute;die&mdash;and to-day we had our first r&eacute;p&eacute;tition
+of the gavotte in the drawing-room. I hadn't
+thought of saying anything about the dancing to the
+young men, and it seems the "chancellerie" went nearly
+mad; their rooms being directly under the salons, they
+heard everything&mdash;the music beginning the same thing
+over and over again&mdash;and the heavy little feet that
+couldn't stay long on the tips of their toes. I had some
+trouble in finding a dancing-mistress&mdash;I thought first of
+the American who had that dancing class here where all
+the children went, but she didn't seem to understand exactly
+what I wanted. Finally some one told me I had
+much better send for Mrs. Roffy&mdash;ballet-mistress at the
+Alhambra&mdash;who has sometimes arranged menuets and
+gavottes for "les femmes du monde"; so I wrote to her
+to come and see me. She knew exactly what I wanted,
+would undertake the whole thing&mdash;how many children&mdash;what
+sort of a dance&mdash;was most business-like&mdash;and we
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_317" title="pg 317"> </a>
+fixed the first r&eacute;p&eacute;tition at once. There were about 20
+children, of all ages and sizes, varying from 3 years to
+14&mdash;Muriel White, Gay Edwardes and her brother, a
+little de Breunen, Elsa Deichmann, etc. Mrs. Roffy
+looked very nice. She is very tall, but rather graceful&mdash;she
+had a little black bag in which were her black silk
+stockings and pointed slippers, and asked if she might
+have a room to arrange herself&mdash;so Clarisse took charge
+of her. I took the piano&mdash;and most distracting it was&mdash;as
+no two of the children ever began their steps at the
+same time. It was amusing to see Mrs. Roffy. She
+moved extraordinarily gracefully for such a tall woman,
+and was so patient&mdash;holding up her dress, pointing her
+toes, and talking to them all the time&mdash;"Heads up,
+Dears&mdash;Heads up! Look at me&mdash;very proud, please." I
+should have given up in despair after a quarter of an
+hour. All the little arms and legs went at wrong times
+in wrong directions, and no one seemed to have the
+slightest idea of time. She will give one or two private
+lessons to some of the very small ones.</p>
+
+<p>Madame de Langhe, too, has her hands full with the
+chorus, "Vive la Reine"&mdash;but I think she must have some
+one behind the scenes to sing the solo, and then the
+children will come out strong in the chorus. The r&ocirc;les
+are all distributed&mdash;Bianca Deym&mdash;a tall handsome
+girl&mdash;is to be Marie Antoinette; and the various other
+Court ladies are Lady Helen Stewart (Lady Londonderry's
+daughter), Lady J. Meade (Lady Clanwilliam's
+daughter), Marguerite Phelps, Anna Lawrence, Elsa de
+Bille, etc. I think it will be pretty.</p>
+
+<p class="author">June 15, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>Hilda and I have been half over London to-day for
+our stage scenes. We must have real ones representing
+a sort of wood where the market people have their
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_318" title="pg 318"> </a>
+stands, and the Queen and the ladies come to buy flowers&mdash;also
+sufficient space for the gavotte. The man
+promises to send it all the day before, as the children
+must rehearse at least once with the real scenes&mdash;for their
+entr&eacute;es&mdash;that is always a little difficulty. The bigger
+girls do all right, but the little ones rush in&mdash;speak very
+quickly&mdash;and <em>always</em> to Th&eacute;nard, who stands at one
+side&mdash;looking hard at her to see if they are doing right&mdash;and
+paying no attention whatever to Her Gracious Majesty
+Queen Marie Antoinette. Muriel White is very
+good, very deliberate, very careful, and taking all the
+French nuances and intonations very well. Gay Edwardes,
+too, is very good&mdash;her French is pretty and easy,
+she learnt it so young in Paris. One of the others (I
+forget which one) was having a private lesson in a corner
+with Francis, who was trying to make her roll her
+Rs in a proper French fashion. She had a complaint to
+make of her garden&mdash;all about "carottes" et "girofl&eacute;es,"
+and the sentences had a true British ring. Francis is
+very important, takes himself quite "au s&eacute;rieux," and is
+most interested in the proper diction of all the young
+ladies. I sat some time in the drawing-room while St.
+Genys was painting his scenes. We had various visitors
+(even W., who was very complimentary over the d&eacute;cor),
+tea, and Th&eacute;nard to settle about a rampe of flowers and
+tapestry curtain.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, June 20, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>I am rather lazy this morning and feel as if I had suddenly
+nothing to do. The com&eacute;die went off very well
+yesterday and was a pretty sight. Until the last moment
+I was doubtful, as we had so many p&eacute;rip&eacute;ties. At the
+dress rehearsal on Thursday, Bianca Deym (Marie Antoinette)
+was so hoarse she could hardly speak. The
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_319" title="pg 319"> </a>
+girl looked very handsome and distinguished in powder
+(tr&eacute;s bien coiff&eacute;e) and one of her mother's handsome
+Court dresses, but Th&eacute;nard wouldn't let her speak&mdash;said
+all her part herself, and told Bianca to pay
+great attention to her voice and gestures. Toupet
+(Francis), the cruel bailiff, had such a stiff neck and sore
+throat that he could hardly move&mdash;so he was rubbed
+hard with Elliman's Embrocation and sent to bed as
+soon as the r&eacute;p&eacute;tition was over. His costume was very
+good&mdash;coat and long waistcoat of prune cloth&mdash;lace
+jabot&mdash;tricorne and gold-headed cane lent by one of
+his English cousins&mdash;a wig of course&mdash;which quite
+changed him. The girls looked charming&mdash;I don't know
+which was the most becoming&mdash;the powder and Court
+dress or the short skirts and high caps of the paysannes.
+The gavotte went very well. The small children in
+front and the bigger ones behind. I never could have
+believed that anyone could evolve anything like a
+gavotte from the whirling chaos of arms and legs that
+was my first impression. M. Lecomte (Secretary of the
+Embassy), who is a very good musician, was at the piano,
+and marked the time very exactly, which was absolutely
+necessary for such young performers.</p>
+
+<p>Various friends and Mammas came to look on and
+criticise&mdash;which was what we wanted&mdash;and all were
+pleased. Th&eacute;nard and St. Genys were quite delighted&mdash;and
+as they have seen it from the first and noted the
+improvement, that was reassuring. Henry Edwardes
+came, much amused and slightly astonished at his children's
+performance (the boy was so good). He told me
+he considered it quite remarkable. He offered to take
+charge of the green-room the day of the performance,
+and I accepted with pleasure, as I am sure the children
+will be rather excited and probably unruly.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_320" title="pg 320"> </a></p>
+
+<p>I had a note from Miss Knollys while the r&eacute;p&eacute;tition
+was going on saying that the Princess of Wales and her
+two daughters, Princesses Victoria and Maud, would be
+present on Friday at the performance. I announced this
+at once to my young troupe, and they were filled with
+pleasure and dismay at the appalling prospect of playing
+before Royalties. I went for a ride Friday morning
+with Pontavice and when I came in was given a wild
+note from the Countess Deym saying that Bianca
+had a complete "extinction de voix" and what could
+be done. If someone else could take the part (which
+was impossible at such short notice) she would send
+all her daughter's dress, which was very handsome, or
+Bianca would come and look the part and Th&eacute;nard do
+the talking from the coulisses. Of course I chose the
+latter, and sent off Clarisse at once to the Austrian Embassy
+with a remedy that Mdme. Richard of the Op&eacute;ra
+gave me. Francis was all right, his neck quite straight.
+After breakfast I had a last practice with him and Lecomte
+for the gavotte. I got in a small piano from &Eacute;rard
+(my big one took up too much room behind the scenes)
+and then I dismissed the whole thing from my mind, and
+went to dress. I told the children to be there at 4.30 so
+as to begin the minute the Princess arrived. She said she
+would come at five.</p>
+
+<p>The little blue salon was a pretty sight when it was
+filled with all the children in costume. Th&eacute;nard's Marquis
+looked too sweet&mdash;she had dressed the girl so well
+in satin coat, ruffles, and silk stockings, and enormous
+paste buckles on her shoes. She did her part perfectly&mdash;so
+easy, and such pretty French. The Princess came
+punctually with her two daughters, and the play began at
+once. I think there were about 100 people&mdash;we couldn't
+seat any more as the stage took up a good deal of
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_321" title="pg 321"> </a>
+room. The prettiest scenes were the Trianon and the
+Market Place. In the Trianon, Marie Antoinette was
+seated surrounded by her ladies, and le Marquis telling
+them "les petites nouvelles de la cour." The child
+was killing when she took out her snuff-box and made
+flowery phrases. The Market was very well arranged
+with flowers and vegetables. Violet Freeman made a
+splendid old woman at one stall, and Hilda Deichmann
+did her boy's part very well. After the Queen had made
+her round (her voice came back, though she was rather
+hoarse still) she and her ladies retired a little to the
+background, where the Court made a brilliant group,
+while the peasants sang their chorus, "Vive la Reine."
+Then came the gavotte, which really went extremely
+well. Mrs. Roffy was breathless with recommendations
+until the last moment. Both chorus and gavotte were
+encored, and there was much applause when the curtain
+fell.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus372.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy" id="illus372" title="A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy"> </a>
+
+<p class="center" style="max-width:600px">Violet Freeman<span style="float: right">Francis Waddington</span></p>
+<p class="center small">
+A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy<br >
+From a Photograph by Barker &amp; Pragnell London</p></div>
+
+
+<p>The Princess, who is always so gracious, asked me
+what I would like her to do, so I said if she would allow
+the whole troupe to defile before her I would name each
+one&mdash;and I knew it would give them great pleasure.
+She agreed at once, so the procession, headed by Marie
+Antoinette, passed, and the Princess shook hands with
+every one, talking a little to those she knew. They all
+applauded when Toupet, with his wig and cane, appeared.
+Then I named Mdmes. Th&eacute;nard and Roffy&mdash;and I wish
+you could have seen those ladies' curtseys (Mdme. Roffy's
+particularly splendid), also St. Genys and Lecomte. The
+whole thing lasted a short hour, even with the r&eacute;p&eacute;tition
+of chorus and gavotte. We had tea in the drawing-room&mdash;the
+children downstairs. The Princess told
+me she thought it charming&mdash;quite wonderful. The only
+two French children were Francis and the Marquis, but
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_322" title="pg 322"> </a>
+I must say I thought the others quite wonderful. When
+the Princess went away all the children assembled in the
+hall at the foot of the stairs, bowing and curtseying&mdash;and
+it was a pretty sight, such a mass of colour and
+flushed, eager little faces. The Princess told them all
+again how much she had enjoyed the performance, and
+it was quite a happy little crowd that dispersed soon
+afterward to their respective homes. W. complimented
+Th&eacute;nard very much, who had given herself no end of
+trouble&mdash;also Mdme. de Langhe, who had undertaken
+the chorus. Some of the ladies were rather anxious we
+should repeat the performance for the benefit of some
+charity, but W. didn't like to have a paying thing at
+the Embassy; and at one of the public halls it would not
+have been very easy&mdash;some of the ladies objected.</p>
+
+<p>I dined at home, but went to a concert in the evening,
+and had various compliments for my troupe. The
+Prince of Wales told me that the Princess had told him
+it was quite charming. I think on the whole W. was
+pleased. He was rather doubtful about inviting the Princess&mdash;thought
+it was a little informal, and would bore
+her, but I don't think it did.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Tuesday, June 23, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>We have had various notices in the French papers of
+the com&eacute;die; generally "une bonne presse," but one or
+two of the very Republican papers expressed great surprise
+at such a <em>Royalist Demonstration</em>&mdash;couldn't imagine
+<em>why</em> we had chosen that particular chorus, "Vive la
+Reine," at an Embassy representing the French Republic!</p>
+
+<p>I am sorry you couldn't come over&mdash;all the r&eacute;p&eacute;titions
+would have amused you so much. Nothing was funnier
+than to see Francis always in a corner with some of the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_323" title="pg 323"> </a>
+girls. Madame Campan (Elsa de Bille) had a long thing
+to say, and was most anxious to have the correct accent.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+July 8, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>I dined quietly with some of the personnel last night,
+and had Thekla Staal, as her mother and father had gone
+to Windsor for the State banquet for the German Emperor.
+Mdme. de Staal came in for a moment on her way
+home&mdash;she said it was very handsome, very well done,
+as it always is at Windsor, only they were all rather uncomfortable,
+as they went down from London by special
+train in full dress&mdash;diamonds and feathers&mdash;and when
+they arrived at the Castle they were asked to take off
+their wraps in the hall, no dressing-room of any kind
+provided. I don't know what my erratic hair would have
+looked like. Of course I couldn't go on account of my
+mourning.</p>
+
+<p>All London was on the "qui vive" this morning, as the
+German Emperor was to make his formal entry into London.
+I thought I wouldn't go in the carriage and take up
+a position, so Mrs. Edwardes suggested that I should go
+with her to Constitution Hill, where she had places, and
+see the Emperor pass there; so we started off on foot
+quite cheerfully, but as soon as we got outside the Park
+and wanted to cross the Square, we were confronted by
+lines of soldiers and policemen, who refused to let us pass.
+I explained who I was and that I was merely going to
+cross to Constitution Hill, but they evidently thought
+nothing of an Ambassadress in a simple black dress with
+neither equipage nor servants, and we were getting
+rather discouraged when I saw a Park-keeper who knew
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_324" title="pg 324"> </a>
+me, so he instantly went after one of the heads of the
+mounted police, who appeared, made way for us and accompanied
+us (he riding) across the Square. Some of
+our friends, who were looking on from windows in the
+houses opposite, were rather anxious&mdash;thought we had
+been arrested. We waited a little while and very soon
+the head of the procession appeared. We made ourselves
+as small as we could and squeezed close up to the gate,
+but the Horse Guards on their big, black horses came
+unpleasantly near and the least plunge or kick would
+have been disastrous. The Royal carriage passed quite
+close to us at a quick trot. The Emperor looked very
+wide-awake and soldierly in blue dragoon uniform; the
+Empress, tall and fair, in white, was seated next to him;
+the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Edinburgh on the
+front seat. There was not much enthusiasm, a few hats
+(not all) lifted. The Emperor saluted all the time,
+mechanically. When he saw me he leaned forward,
+smiled and bowed in evident recognition. I can't think
+how he knew me, standing there in a crowd of nursery-maids
+and children. He had seen me but twice before,
+and then in the evening in full dress. I suppose it is that
+extraordinary memory, instinct almost, that all Princes
+have, and which does them such good service. Everyone
+is pleased and flattered at being recognised by a Royalty.
+I was, too, just like all the rest. I wasn't mistaken
+in thinking he knew me. He told one of our secretaries
+at the reception at the Palace that he had seen Mdme.
+Waddington <em>standing</em> in the crowd.</p>
+
+<p>Hilda came to dinner with Countess Eulenbourg (wife
+of the Master of Ceremonies of the German Court) and
+her boy. They were very late, as the Countess had been
+to Buckingham Palace to see the Empress. She said the
+confusion was something awful. She had great difficulty
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_325" title="pg 325"> </a>
+in getting in, was sent from pillar to post and
+finally the carriage was allowed to enter through the
+stable-yard. She was glad to have a quiet evening. Her
+husband was at the gala performance at the Opera with
+the Emperor and Empress. She spoke a great deal
+about the Emperor, said it was impossible to be with him
+without feeling what a strong personality he is; that what
+he felt was right and best for Germany he would certainly
+do&mdash;also that he would never shirk a responsibility, or
+put the blame on others if he made a mistake. It seems
+curious to be suddenly out of everything. W. is still in
+France<sup><a href="#fn11" id="r11">[11]</a></sup>
+and of course our deep mourning makes all
+Court and gala things impossible for us. I think W.
+must come back before the Emperor goes and try to see
+him in a private audience, if nothing else can be arranged.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, 9th.</p>
+
+<p>All the Corps Diplomatique were received this morning
+at Buckingham Palace&mdash;the men by the Emperor,
+the women by the Empress. Hatzfeldt presented the
+men. In W.'s absence, d'Estournelles represented the
+Embassy (with all the secretaries of course). As he was
+only Charg&eacute; d'Affaires, he could not take W.'s place as
+Doyen at the head of the row&mdash;on the contrary, was
+quite at the end; after all the Ministers of the small
+Powers&mdash;however they made a little group apart. The
+Emperor talked a little while to d'Estournelles&mdash;regretted
+very much not seeing W.&mdash;knew that he was still
+in France, and told him to tell me that he had recognised
+me at once in the Park. He said a few words to each
+member of the Embassy. The ladies were presented by
+Mdme. de Staal&mdash;my young women told me she did it
+very well, passing down the line with the Empress and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_326" title="pg 326"> </a>
+naming every one. They also found the Empress very
+gracious, saying something to each one&mdash;of course there
+is never any real conversation on such occasions, people
+are usually in a hurry and anxious to get through their
+<em>function</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon was the garden party at Marlborough
+House&mdash;Mdme. d'Estournelles and Florian came in afterward
+to tell me about it; also Mme. de Bille (wife
+of the Danish Minister), she is an American, n&eacute;e Zabriskie.
+They said there was a great crowd, and such a
+hedge of loyal subjects around the Royalties that it was
+almost impossible to see them even. Princess of Monaco
+(n&eacute;e Heine), who was with the Court (her husband
+being a "prince regnant," of a minute principality certainly),
+made a sign to Countess de Florian to come and
+speak to her, and she also had quite a talk with Princess
+Am&eacute;lie of Schleswig Holstein, cousin of the German
+Emperor, whom she had known as a girl in Pau, when
+her father, Marquis de Nadaillac, was Pr&eacute;fet there.
+Staal came in late, and hopes that W. will come back
+(he is always such a good colleague). He thinks it will
+make a bad effect, the French Ambassador being the
+only one absent. He thinks he ought to come over
+for the breakfast at the Mansion House, which is strictly
+official, and where the Emperor will probably make a
+speech. I will write to him to-night and tell him what
+they all say.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Friday, July 10th.</p>
+
+<p>I rode this morning with Pontavice, the Military Attach&eacute;,
+and just missed the Emperor, who was riding with
+six or seven officers, all in uniform, which seems strange,
+as the officers never wear uniform except when they are
+on duty. We sometimes see the officer of the day riding
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_327" title="pg 327"> </a>
+in the Row in uniform, but never any other. In Paris it
+is quite different; all the officers of the Paris garrison,
+which is a very large one, always ride in uniform in the
+Bois in the morning. I went to the War Office afterward
+to see the Emperor, Empress, and Prince and
+Princess pass on their way to the Lord Mayor's banquet.
+The display of troops was rather mesquin&mdash;the Grenadiers
+standing so far apart that there were groups of
+street boys in between. The Royalties were fairly applauded
+(the Prince and Princess are always whenever
+they appear). The Emperor was in a white uniform,
+but his helmet is so big and heavy and so low on his face
+that one could hardly see him. Francis and I dined
+quietly at the Russian Embassy, and the Staals told us
+all about the various f&ecirc;tes. They said the getting away
+from the Mansion House was awful&mdash;when the gentlemen
+of the household were trying to make a passage for
+the Princess of Wales there was a general skirmish, one
+of the ladies of the Corps Diplomatique was struck on
+the shoulder by one of the gentlemen, and there was a
+fine row&mdash;the husband of the lady furious, the unfortunate
+equerry protesting, saying he was incapable of
+such an enormity, etc. However, excuses were made
+and peace restored.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, July 11th.</p>
+
+<p>I rode this morning with Pontavice, and we met the
+Emperor, also riding, several times; but he did <em>not</em> recognise
+me this time in my habit. He had six or seven officers
+with him and two grooms. All the officers, the
+Emperor also, in uniform, and wearing those long German
+sabres that hang loose and make a great clatter.
+They all rode at a gallop and set all the horses in the Row
+by the ears. I really had some trouble with my quiet animal,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_328" title="pg 328"> </a>
+who was jumping and kicking all over the place. I
+had several visits at tea-time. My windows and balconies
+giving on the Park are most attractive, as there
+are quantities of people about&mdash;a sort of general excitement
+in the air, and royal carriages and soldiers passing
+all the time. D'Estournelles came in and told me about
+the review. He said the troops looked splendid, but the
+arrangements were very bad&mdash;no seats reserved&mdash;he and
+his wife and many ladies standing all the time. Mme.
+d'Estournelles was dead tired and had gone home to bed.
+W. came back for dinner; he looks grave and sad. We
+sat on the balcony after dinner while he smoked. He
+said he must go to the luncheon at Hatfield for the Emperor
+and Empress. As long as he was Ambassador, he
+had no right to let any private grief prevent his taking
+part in a public function, particularly in this case, when
+his absence might be misconstrued.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, July 18th.</p>
+
+<p>I went this afternoon to consult some of my colleagues
+about my dress for Hatfield. Of course I am in deep
+mourning, and I didn't know if I could meet Royalties in
+black. At some Courts, Russia for instance, black is not
+allowed&mdash;when people are in mourning they wear white.
+After various consultations, I decided that I would go in
+my black dress; so I have had some lace put on top of
+the flounce of "cr&eacute;pon de laine," which is really very deep
+mourning.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author">Tuesday, July 19, 1891.</p>
+
+<p>We had a most interesting day at Hatfield, and evidently
+we were right in going. We went down by a
+special, W. in deep mourning, I in my black cr&eacute;pon, my
+big pearls in my ears and around my neck, a little cr&ecirc;pe
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_329" title="pg 329"> </a>
+bonnet (with a soup&ccedil;on of jet) and an ordinary dotted
+tulle veil. All our colleagues were most empress&eacute;s and
+nice&mdash;said it had been so strange not to see either of us
+at any of the f&ecirc;tes. There were, as usual, a certain number
+of young men, sons of the house, secretaries, etc., at
+the station at Hatfield; plenty of carriages, and in a few
+minutes we were at the house. We passed straight
+through the rooms to the terrace, where a very smart
+company was assembled. Some of the young women in
+white satin and lace, high bodices of course, all very
+much dressed, and all with necklaces and jewels on their
+corsages. No one in particular received us. Lady Salisbury
+was driving with the Empress, Lord Salisbury talking
+with the Prince of Wales, and the Emperor riding.
+(The Salisburys had an enormous house party, all arrived
+the night before for dinner&mdash;the Emperor and Empress
+with their suite, also the Prince and Princess and
+theirs.) I was strolling about the terrace with Countess
+Deym when we came suddenly upon the Princess of
+Wales, walking about with her "Kodak" and looking
+about 25 in her simple grey foulard and big black hat.
+As we went up to speak to her, she made us a sign to
+stop, saying "I want you in my picture." We talked to
+her a little while and then she said she must go and make
+herself "smart" for the lunch-party. There was still
+some time before there was any sign of Princes&mdash;or
+lunch. Mr. Barrington asked us to stand near the perron,
+as he had charge of the placing of the people. The
+Emperor and Empress appeared first, and immediately
+made a sort of cercle. Lady Salisbury presented me at
+once to the Empress, and she was most amiable, regretted
+not having seen me at the reception at Buckingham Palace,
+adding, "J'ai vu toutes vos jeunes femmes, plus jolies
+les unes que les autres." The Emperor, too, was easy and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_330" title="pg 330"> </a>
+pleasant, but so many people were brought up to him all
+the time that he couldn't talk much. It was interesting
+to watch him. He was of course <em>the</em> central figure, and
+there is always a certain curiosity as to what he will do.
+He holds himself very straight, has a stern face and
+rather a stiff manner, not particularly gracious, speaks
+English of course perfectly well (in fact looks like an
+Englishman, particularly in ordinary dress&mdash;of course
+the uniform changes him a little). I think he knew about
+everybody who was presented to him; soldiers, statesmen,
+artists, and seemed to be interested in the very short
+talks he had with each one. He and W. had quite a talk,
+and he again expressed his regret at not having seen him
+before, and also for the cause which had kept him away.
+The Prince and Princess stood about on the terrace while
+all the presentations were going on, talking to their
+friends. After about half an hour there was a move to
+the great dining-hall. I think there were about 150
+guests. The Royalties and swells lunched in the great
+hall at small tables of ten, and the others in the ordinary
+dining-room. I was at Lord Salisbury's table, who took
+in the Empress; the Prince took me; Hatzfeldt (German
+Ambassador) Mdme. de Staal; Rustem (Turkish Ambassador)
+Princess Maud; Soveral (Portuguese Minister)
+Countess Spencer. At Lady Salisbury's table were
+the Emperor, Princess, Staal, W., etc. The talk was
+fairly easy at our table&mdash;Hatzfeldt said to me rather
+pointedly, "Je suis tr&egrave;s heureux de vous voir ici aujourd'hui,
+Madame Waddington." The Prince also said we
+were quite right to come. I said I thought my plain
+black dress was rather out of place at such a brilliant
+entertainment, but he assured me it was quite correct.</p>
+
+<p>About half way through luncheon came the pearl necklace
+incident (which you saw in the papers). I suddenly
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_331" title="pg 331"> </a>
+felt that my necklace was unclasped. It was sewed on
+the corsage in front, as the pearls are large and heavy,
+and I am always afraid of breaking the string. I asked
+Soveral, who was next to me, if he couldn't clasp it for
+me. He tried, but was nervous or awkward; at any rate
+couldn't manage it, and we were both getting red and
+flustered when suddenly we heard the Emperor from his
+table calling W.'s attention to the fact that "le Portugal
+&eacute;tait en train d'&eacute;trangler la France"; also Staal, saying
+that his "Coll&egrave;gue du Portugal se livrait &agrave; une gymnastique
+&eacute;trange." They all made various jokes at my expense,
+and the Prince said "Let me do it," but he couldn't
+either, and again we heard the Emperor remarking,
+"Maintenant c'est plus s&eacute;rieux&mdash;l'Angleterre s'en m&ecirc;le."
+W., who had his back to me and who couldn't see what
+was going on, was decidedly mystified, and wondered
+what on earth I was doing to attract so much attention,
+in fact was rather annoyed. When we got up from table
+the Prince and I retreated to a corner of the terrace, and
+he cut the stitches that held the necklace in front with his
+knife (which again looked funny to the people assembled
+on the terrace). He advised me to put the pearls, <em>not</em> in
+my pocket, but in a safe place, as they were very handsome,
+so I put them <em>inside</em> my dress. Of course everybody
+asked me what had happened, and what the Emperor
+was saying to me from the other table. I asked the
+Empress if she was never afraid of losing her pearls, but
+she said all her jewels were most carefully sewn on and
+strung on a very thick string or sort of silk cord.</p>
+
+<p>Very soon after lunch the Emperor and Empress left,
+as they were starting in the evening for Germany, and
+had to go to Windsor to take leave of the Queen. The
+Prince and Princess followed quickly, and then, of course,
+all of us. W. had again a talk with the Emperor, and all
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_332" title="pg 332"> </a>
+his colleagues told him he was quite right to come. Any
+little incident between France and Germany always assumes
+gigantic proportions, and the papers, both French
+and German, would have been full of the <em>marked</em> absence
+of the French Ambassador from all the f&ecirc;tes for
+the Emperor; his mourning a pretext, etc. It was a beautiful
+entertainment&mdash;bright, perfect summer day, quantities
+of pretty women beautifully dressed (a great many
+in white) and representative people of all kinds. The
+general impression was that the Emperor was not a
+lady's man&mdash;he evidently preferred talking to army and
+political men. My talk with him was so perfectly banal
+that I can scarcely have an opinion, but I should think
+one might talk to him easily. His face is certainly stern,
+and the manner very cold, but his smile, like the Queen's,
+lights up and softens the face. I said to one of the
+pretty young women who had made a luncheon-party for
+him, that I had heard that it was beautifully done, and
+that he was much pleased. She said she hoped he was,
+that as far as she personally was concerned he hadn't the
+slightest idea whether she was 25 or 50.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+January 12, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>W. and I came over yesterday in a snowstorm.
+It was beastly getting out of the train and on the
+boat at Calais. I am rather depressed, having left Francis
+behind at a professor's near the Lyc&eacute;e Janson, to
+follow the cours there as externe. I shall miss him
+frightfully, but it was quite time for him to go to France
+and go through the regular course. He was forgetting
+his French here. Of course he and his father always
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_333" title="pg 333"> </a>
+speak French to each other, but he went to a little English
+school, Miss Quirim's, in Sloane Street (where
+there were quantities of little friends beginning their education),
+played all day with English children, heard
+nothing else spoken around him, and was rapidly becoming
+an Englishman. The house seems dreadfully quiet
+without him, and poor little Bonny, the fox-terrier, is
+miserable. He couldn't think why he wasn't with us to-day
+on our journey and galloped up to his room as soon
+as he arrived at the Embassy, asking everybody really
+with his eyes where his master was. Florian came in at
+once to see us, and told us that the Duke of Clarence was
+frightfully ill at Sandringham. He always looked rather
+delicate, tall and slight and colourless, but I hope his
+youth will pull him through. He had been rather more
+en &eacute;vidence these last months since his engagement to
+Princess May, daughter of Princess Mary, Duchess of
+Teck. I think it is a marriage that pleases the nation.
+Princess May is young and pretty, with a pretty figure
+and essentially English&mdash;born and brought up in the
+country. Everybody adores her mother, Princess Mary,
+and I think it will be a very happy marriage.</p>
+
+<p class="author">January 13, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>I am afraid there is no chance for the poor young
+Prince. Florian came in for a moment, just back from
+Marlborough House, where the bulletins are posted twice
+a day. There were crowds of people reading them and
+trying to get some detailed information. Florian saw
+one of the equerries, who told him there was no hope, he
+was sinking fast and would probably not live through
+the night. He told him the Princess never left him and
+was heart-broken, her eldest boy. It is hard for her.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_334" title="pg 334"> </a>
+They seem to think it was a neglected cold, caught out
+shooting, and not taken in time. All the personnel came
+in to see me and brought their New Year's present&mdash;4
+pretty corbeilles for bonbons. They always give me
+something New Year's Day and I am much pleased to
+have the souvenirs. I can hardly realise that we have
+been here nearly 9 years. We came in '83 and thought
+we should stay perhaps two years. I am so accustomed
+to the life now that I feel as if I had always spent half
+the year in England and the other half in France. I suppose
+I shall miss a great many things when we retire into
+private life, perhaps most of all the family life with all
+the personnel of the Embassy. We have had various
+changes, of course, but I generally pull well with them
+all, and I must say they are always ready to help me in
+every way. I haven't had too many women, which is
+pleasant; women are much more complicated to deal with
+than men&mdash;there are always so many small jealousies
+and rivalries.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, January 14, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>The poor young Duke is dead at 9 o'clock this morning,
+in spite of all that tender nursing and skill could do.
+He had not strength to fight against the malady. It is
+awfully hard at his age and in his position; just now,
+too, when his marriage was so popular. Florian came
+at once to tell us, and said there was such a crowd outside
+Marlborough House that he could hardly get through
+into the court, where the policeman showed him the
+Prince of Wales's telegram, "All is over." We had
+various visits at tea-time; Deym among others, who had
+done just what we did&mdash;sent telegrams to the Prince
+and Princess and the Tecks at Sandringham. He told
+me he had dined at White Lodge with the Tecks on
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_335" title="pg 335"> </a>
+Christmas Eve (for their Christmas tree) and that they
+were all so happy. Princess Mary took him upstairs and
+showed him all the presents&mdash;coupons of velvet, brocade,
+etc., for dresses, also the wedding dress, and said to him,
+"Je suis si heureuse que j'en ai peur." Poor thing; perhaps
+it was a presentiment. I am awfully sorry for them,
+for her perhaps more than for Princess May, who is
+young and must of course get over it, as youth happily
+is elastic and rebounds; but Princess Mary is different.
+She has her share of worries and disappointments, and
+she was so happy and proud of the marriage. It must
+be an awful blow to her.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, January 19, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>I went to the little church behind the Embassy this
+morning and am very sorry now that I didn't go to St.
+Paul's, where there was a fine service&mdash;the organ playing
+the Dead March in Saul, and all the congregation
+standing, a good many women crying, all in black.
+It was impressive in the little church&mdash;everyone in black.
+There is a general mourning ordered for three weeks,
+and Court mourning for six (which is a shorter time
+than I thought). (I send on a sheet apart what I would
+like you to order for me. I have nothing black but my
+black satin evening dress, which fortunately is all black,
+no white, lace, or colour). They sang the funeral hymn
+"Labourer, thy work is o'er," the first time I had ever
+heard it, and beautiful it was; read the prayer for the
+"Royal Family in affliction," and one for the influenza&mdash;which
+surprised me, as I should not have thought the
+epidemic was bad enough for that. The sermon, of
+course, was all about Prince Eddie and the young life
+cut short. It was very simple and earnest and the congregation
+certainly felt and showed great sympathy. I
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_336" title="pg 336"> </a>
+went for a short turn in the Park afterward and walked
+about a little with Henry Edwardes and his children.
+He is rather down, poor fellow, as his cong&eacute; drags on
+and they seem in no hurry at the Foreign Office to give
+him another post. I believe he didn't get on very well
+with his last chief, and of course all chiefs are not commodes,
+but equally of course when there comes a question
+the secretary is <em>always</em> in the wrong. Edwardes is
+very clever and cultivated. W. thinks him an excellent
+agent. In Paris he always knew what was going on,
+and knew so many people of all kinds.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon I had my usual Sunday visits&mdash;principally
+diplomatists this time, and all talking about Prince
+Eddie's funeral. It seems a pity they don't make a grand
+military funeral, the procession passing through London.
+There was such a striking outburst of sympathy and
+loyalty when his death was announced that the people
+would have been glad to associate themselves with the
+last rites. They don't invite all the Chefs de Mission to
+the funeral at Windsor (which also seems strange, Prince
+Eddie being the heir), merely those of the "Cours apparent&eacute;es."
+That will take in Hatzfeldt, German Ambassador;
+Staal, Russian; de Bille, Danish Minister;
+Gennadius, Greece; Soveral, Portugese; and Solvyns,
+Belgian. All the others go to a special service at St.
+James's Chapel, in uniform.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Wednesday, January 20, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>To-day is the funeral. Our flag is half-mast, and all
+the windows shut in the drawing-rooms. It is mild
+and damp, but not cold. Mdme. de Florian and I have
+been driving about this afternoon to have an impression
+of the streets. All the shops are shut, blinds down
+in all the houses, flags at half-mast, and everyone in
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_337" title="pg 337"> </a>
+black. Some of the hansom cab drivers with bits of
+black ribbon or stuff on their whips, and everybody looks
+grave. I can't help thinking it was a pity not to let the
+people participate in the mourning and feel they were
+taking some part. In these days of democracy one
+should take any chance of strengthening the feeling of
+loyalty. W. went off in uniform, with cr&ecirc;pe on sleeve
+and sword hilt, at 3, to the service at the Chapel Royal,
+St. James's, which seems to have been rather mild. The
+diplomatists (4 Ambassadors), Chefs de Mission, were
+received by Mr. Eric Barrington, Lord Salisbury's secretary;
+Mr. Thomas Sanderson, and Colonel Chaine.</p>
+
+<p>W. dined in the evening with Hilda, to meet Count
+Seckendorff and B&uuml;low, who had come over from Germany
+to the funeral. They said the service was very
+simple and impressive, and that the Prince of Wales and
+Prince George looked badly, the Prince of Wales much
+agitated. Seckendorff said he could just manage to speak
+to them when they all filed past him after the ceremony.
+The Princesses were all in the chapel in a sort of gallery.
+Quite at the end the Prince stepped forward and laid a
+white wreath (given by Princess May) on the coffin.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, January 30, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>It is still very mild and damp, rather dismal weather,
+and the streets are depressing, everyone in black&mdash;the
+mourning is very general, not at all confined to the fashionable
+world. Mdme. de Florian and I drove out to
+White Lodge, and cheerless it looked, so lonely and sad
+with the black winter trees all around the house. We
+did not see either of the Princesses; they were in London,
+but Teck came out to speak to us. I never saw him appear
+so well&mdash;he was so simple and distressed for his
+daughter. He said she was very quiet, but perfectly
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_338" title="pg 338"> </a>
+heart-broken, and that he had always had a presentiment
+that something would happen&mdash;everything had gone too
+smoothly. He said the coming back there after the
+funeral was something too awful&mdash;all the wedding presents
+and stuffs and laces scattered about the rooms&mdash;letters
+and telegrams of congratulation, bouquets of white
+flowers, in fact all the preparations for a wedding; and
+at the same time people waiting to try on mourning&mdash;telegrams
+of condolence, etc. What a tragedy! He said
+he had no hope from the first. Prince Eddie was struck
+down at once, and he didn't think the Princess of Wales
+ever had a gleam of hope. She never left her boy until
+all was over.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author">Wednesday, February 10, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>I went as usual to have tea with the Countess de
+Bylandt this afternoon, who receives always Wednesday.
+She always has plenty of people and one has a pleasant
+hour. She was worried about her husband to-day, who is
+ill. He is not very young and I should think has always
+been delicate. He is Dutch Minister, and has been here
+for years. She is a Russian born, very clever and amusing.
+We dined with Baron Gevers, Dutch Secretary, at the
+new restaurant or club, l'Amphytrion, which is supposed
+to be the best and dearest in London. It is kept by &Eacute;mile,
+a well-known Parisian. We were a <em>young</em> party, the
+Florians, St. Genys, and the Lataings (Belgian Legation).
+The dinner was excellent, certainly&mdash;&Eacute;mile knew
+that his Ambassador was coming and had done his best.
+He was always hovering about the table to see that all
+was right, and we complimented him very much on the
+way everything was cooked and served. I said to him
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_339" title="pg 339"> </a>
+that he had very good material in London to work upon,
+to which he replied, with magnificent contempt for anything
+that was not French&mdash;"Il n'y a pas de march&eacute; &agrave;
+Londres, je fais venir tout de Paris." When one thinks
+of Covent Garden, with its piles of splendid salmon,
+haunches of venison, hot-house fruits, grapes, pine-apples,
+and <em>primeurs</em> of all kinds, the answer was amusing.
+We went upstairs for coffee and cigarettes and had
+a very pleasant evening. It is so good for W. to be
+with young people occasionally. He talked a great deal,
+and the young men were interested in some of his Cambridge
+reminiscences.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, February 11, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>It is still quite mild. After breakfast I went with
+Hilda to the British Museum to hear a young Oxonian
+lady lecture on Greek Antiquities and the Eleusinian
+Mysteries. She did it very easily&mdash;a pretty, cultivated
+voice and very distinct pronunciation. The lecture lasted
+about an hour. She had all sorts of photographs of bas-reliefs,
+statues, paintings, etc., and it was very interesting,
+much more so than I expected, as Greek antiquities
+are not much in my line. After the lecture was over,
+Mr. Thomson, the director of the Museum (a charming
+man), came to get us and showed us as much as we
+could see before 4, when it gets dark and the Museum is
+shut. The reading-room and library are enormous, and
+for London very light. The collection of missals, autographs,
+etc., is splendid. Some of the old, old missals
+so beautiful still, the colours so wonderfully preserved.
+We went to Mr. Thomson's room in the Museum building
+for tea. His daughter was there and gave us very
+good tea and muffins. Altogether we had a most interesting
+afternoon. We dined with Mrs. Mitford (widow of
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_340" title="pg 340"> </a>
+Percy Mitford, diplomatist). She has a very pretty and
+original house and is a very easy hostess, having lived
+much abroad. She is a great friend of Princess Mary and
+told me I ought to go and see her. Mr. Lincoln, the
+American Minister, was there, and we all teased him
+about the Presidential election (the papers say he is to be
+the next President). Mdme. de Bille and I told him we
+were racking our brains to think what we could ask him
+for our friends at home when he would be at the White
+House. He assured us there was no possible chance of
+it, and no one would be as sorry as he himself if ever the
+thing came to pass. It certainly would be difficult to be
+a second President Lincoln.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Friday, February 19, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>It is still very cold, snow lying on the ground (in
+the parks), which is rare in London. I have just had
+a little note from Princess Mary, asking me to come and
+see her on Sunday at White Lodge, as she leaves early
+in the week for the Riviera. Wolff came in late to ask
+me if I would take him out to White Lodge, as Princess
+Mary had also written to him to come. He had his violin,
+so he played for about an hour, and most enchanting
+it was. I occasionally forgot about the accompaniment,
+listening to his beautiful long notes. He didn't mind,
+was standing in the middle of the room (playing by
+heart) and went on quite serenely until I caught him up
+somewhere and went on again. I dined quietly with
+Jean (as W. had a man's dinner at one of the clubs)
+and we made music all the evening. She is very busy
+translating a German book, Lady Blennerhasset's "Life
+of Madame de Sta&euml;l." It looked easy at first, but I fancy
+is rather a formidable undertaking, as Lady B. has a very
+distinct style&mdash;very German, and I should think it must
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_341" title="pg 341"> </a>
+lose in translation. She had rather come to grief over
+one page. I looked over it, and said I didn't find it <em>very</em>
+difficult, and I know German well, upon which she replied,
+"Please read it out to me, then, in good English."
+I began, but came to grief at once. I had got the meaning
+right enough in my head, but couldn't at all express
+it at once in correct or fluent English, and I don't know
+that a dictionary would have helped me much. It was
+more the turn of the phrase and a peculiar form of expression.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, February 21, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>It is very mild to-day&mdash;a complete thaw. Wolff came
+to breakfast, also Mdme. de Florian, and we drove out to
+White Lodge for tea. It was pleasant enough driving,
+as there was no wind, but the park and place looked
+dreary. I had always seen it so gay, with so many young
+people about, that I could hardly realise that it was the
+same house. We were expected&mdash;two or three footmen
+in deep mourning were at the door and took us at once
+to the drawing-room. In a few minutes the three appeared:
+father, mother, and daughter. I was rather
+nervous, but they were so natural, it was such real grief,
+that we felt quite at our ease, and so sorry for them all.
+Princess May looked lovely. She has grown much thinner,
+and the long black dress covered with cr&ecirc;pe, with
+the white collar and cuffs (that all widows wear in England),
+was most becoming. Her complexion was beautiful,
+so delicate, and her eyes had that peculiar bright
+look that one sees in people who have cried a great deal.
+Before tea I had a long talk with Princess Mary, who
+said that it all seemed a dream&mdash;the first days at White
+Lodge, when the young couple were so happy, making
+all sorts of plans, for their future seemed so bright and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_342" title="pg 342"> </a>
+brilliant; so convinced that long years of happiness and
+usefulness were before them that she was frightened
+sometimes, and used to tell them that there would be great
+cares and responsibilities in their position, and that they
+must both help each other as much as they could (she
+said Prince Eddie was naturally timid, and rather disposed
+to underrate his intelligence). Then came the
+sudden change. Those terrible days at Sandringham,
+where she hoped against hope, and then the coming back
+to White Lodge, which must have been heart-breaking.
+I only said a few words to Princess May as we were
+going away, but Mdme. de Florian had some talk with
+her. She said she felt stunned&mdash;could hardly believe that
+all was over, but that she must try and take up her life
+again. "It will be very hard; I suppose I was too happy."</p>
+
+<p>They are starting at once for the South, and I hope it
+will do her good. Various people came in, among others
+Mrs. Mitford, who is a devoted friend of the Tecks, and
+so sorry for them. She said it was melancholy to see
+them the first days after they got back to White Lodge.
+All the presents had to be put away or sent back; all the
+letters and telegrams sorted and put away, and that
+Princess May moved about like a ghost.</p>
+
+<p>We had a quiet evening until some late telegrams came
+announcing a Ministerial crisis in France, for nothing
+apparently. W. and his secretaries were disgusted.
+There are so many changes in France, and we never
+know who is coming to the Foreign Office. I think it
+is time for us to go back. We have been away a long
+time, and it isn't good for a man to live too much out
+of his own country.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_343" title="pg 343"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+Wednesday, February 24, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>It is very cold and foggy this morning, impossible to
+ride; we see all the grooms exercising the saddle horses
+in the Park. I went for tea as usual to Mdme. de Bylandt.
+He is still in his bed, and very bad I imagine. This evening
+we have been to "Venice," the great show at Olympia.
+We went a family party (Embassy), Florians, St. Genys,
+Pontavice, d'Agoult. It is really very prettily done; you
+must see it when you come over. We had a capital box
+directly in the centre of the house, but the director, hearing
+we were there, came to pay us a visit, and transferred
+us to the Royal box, which is very large and comfortable&mdash;seats
+twenty people easily. He sent us some ices, and
+said he would have two gondolas waiting at the end of
+the performance to take us through the lagoons. The
+performance was a sort of ballet&mdash;very pretty girls well
+got up in Venetian costume, very artistically grouped,
+and quantities of colour. As soon as it was over we
+went down to the "Canal," where we found two gondolas,
+the real thing, with Venetian gondoliers, who were
+much pleased when I spoke Italian to them. We went
+all around the show, passing under the Bridge of Sighs,
+and finally wound up at a Neapolitan caf&eacute;, where they
+were playing and singing all the well-known Italian
+songs, "Santa Lucia," "Bella Napoli," etc. Florian of
+course found a friend, one of the singers, who recognised
+him, having seen him in Rome when she was singing
+there; so of course we all fraternised, and we stayed
+there some time listening to all the familiar songs and
+accompaniment of guitar and mandoline. We had quite
+the impression of having spent our evening in Italy. W.
+was much amused when we told him of Florian's "connaissance,"
+as he always says he knows more people than
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_344" title="pg 344"> </a>
+anyone he has ever seen, and is related to half France.
+He is always going to some cousin's funeral in Paris.
+French people are so particular about funerals&mdash;never
+fail to pay that last respect to their dead friends; also
+wear mourning much more than we do. They are constantly
+in real mourning (not merely fancy black) for
+three weeks or a month, for a very distant cousin.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+Monday, March 9, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>It is cold and snowing, not a very pleasant day for
+our excursion to Herkomer's studio, in the country; however,
+I had a line from Hilda saying they were quite
+willing to go if I didn't mind the weather, so I consulted
+with Lecomte, one of the secretaries who was going with
+us, and we thought we would go. It would be very difficult
+for me to find another day, as London is filling up
+for its avant-saison, and we have quantities of engagements.
+We met the Deichmanns at the station, and there
+discovered that we had 40 minutes to wait, so we breakfasted
+there in the big dining-room, and it wasn't bad
+at all. Deichmann knows everybody and is well known
+at Euston&mdash;so thanks to him we had a really excellent
+breakfast (and it turned out very well, as we only got
+to Herkomer's for tea, and we should have been half
+starved). We had about three-quarters of an hour by rail
+to our destination, Bushey, in the county of Herts. It
+was bright and beautiful when we got to the station, but
+the trees were white with frost and snow everywhere.
+We found our host in a temporary installation. He is
+building himself an enormous castle, and all the work,
+stone-cutting, wood-carving, painting, etc., is done on the
+spot by his pupils, Herkomer himself superintending and
+directing everything. He is most interesting; full of all
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_345" title="pg 345"> </a>
+sorts of knowledge and fancies. We went over the studios
+and saw everything. Some dull red wood they were
+using came from America he told me&mdash;I forget the
+name of the tree, I think a Californian. It would have
+amused you to see the eager, intelligent faces of the
+young workmen, especially when Herkomer was going
+about explaining his ideas and criticising or encouraging.
+It reminded me rather of an evening at Wilhelmj's (the
+great violinist) long ago in Germany. He had a villa
+near my sister-in-law's, Mdme. Charles de Bunsen, at
+Mosbach, near Biebrich-am-Rhein. We all went over
+there one night to a musical party when I was staying
+with my sister. His house was most artistically arranged,
+all "Alt Deutsch," with an enormous music-room.
+He was waiting for us there surrounded by all
+his pupils, about 10, with their violins and music-stands,
+and all looking so eager and anxious to begin. He
+played himself quite beautifully, and when he was accompanied
+by all the others it was a very pretty sight, he in
+the middle and all the young ones around him with their
+eyes fixed on him. He was one of Wagner's right-hand
+men and played often with him. They played among
+other things the prelude of "Parsifal," which haunted
+me for days afterward. You can't imagine anything
+more divine than those beautiful long notes of his and
+the soft arpeggio accompaniments of the violins. I
+couldn't hear anything else afterward. Someone asked
+him to play Schubert's "Ave Maria," which he did of
+course beautifully, but it sounded so tame after the other,
+which I told him; but he said I was quite wrong, that
+Schubert had written beautiful things, so melodious. All
+the same, I would have preferred remaining with the
+impression of that wonderful prelude. What reminded
+me of all this was the same sort of cadre&mdash;"Ma&icirc;tre et
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_346" title="pg 346"> </a>
+apprentis," for Herkomer is quite the old-fashioned embodiment
+of the "Master" with his pupils. We had tea
+in the studio, where there were some fine portraits. I
+think I like his men better than his women. It is so difficult
+to make an interesting picture of a man in ordinary
+everyday dress. Herkomer has certainly succeeded in
+making some wonderful pictures, without uniform, or
+costume, or colour of any kind to appeal to the imagination.
+We got back late for dinner. I was rather tired
+and cold after my long day&mdash;we had started early, and I
+persuaded W. with some difficulty to go to Lord Salisbury's
+reception without me. However, he rather enjoyed
+himself. He didn't get much farther than the
+door, where he remained talking with Lady Salisbury,
+which he always likes. I don't think he was away more
+than an hour.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+March 28, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>We had a nice canter this morning. There were a
+good many people out. We had a pleasant dinner last
+night at Lady Winifred Gardner's, one of those curious
+mixtures one only sees in London. The Brownlows,
+Lord Carrington, Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, Hare the
+actor and his wife, also various stray men. I found Mr.
+and Mrs. Gladstone both much changed&mdash;much older&mdash;but
+he is marvellous&mdash;talked, eat, and drank like a man
+of 50. Hare talked a great deal, and a great deal to W.,
+who found him clever and original.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Wednesday, 30th.</p>
+
+<p>Well, my Dear, I opened my bazaar yesterday, and you
+will be surprised to hear that I was rather nervous&mdash;only
+for one moment, I must say, when they asked me, after
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_347" title="pg 347"> </a>
+one or two speeches and a little "Marseillaise," if I would
+pronounce the sacramental phrase and declare the bazaar
+open. I, with the committee, was seated in a red chair
+on the platform. When I got up (the only person standing)
+and saw the crowd of faces beneath me looking
+hard at me, for a moment I was shy, but that didn't last.
+They all cheered me, so I recovered myself and made my
+statement, I think in a clear voice. W. jibed at me well
+afterward when I told him. I made a tour of the bazaar,
+buying something at each stall, Lecomte bringing up the
+rear, carrying a large doll. Do you remember what Lasteyrie
+used to say when he was W.'s Chef de Cabinet at
+l'Instruction Publique&mdash;that one of his principal functions
+was to accompany Madame Waddington to all the
+"Ventes de Charit&eacute;" carrying a "paquet de chemises de
+femme," which means that I get so tired of all the fancy
+boxes, and pin-cushions, and screens I accumulate at the
+various sales that I finally asked for "layettes" and "v&ecirc;tements
+de pauvres." Of course I can never have too
+many in the country. I was amused to hear one of my
+friends here who collects for the numerous "guilds" dilate
+upon the <em>smallness</em> of the objects sent her. She says
+she receives dresses and "brassi&egrave;res" (a sort of body
+with sleeves) that would go on <em>no</em> child of any age that
+she has ever seen. It is rather my own experience&mdash;people
+usually give me very minute garments, also in the
+most delicate colours, and my children work in the fields
+and at the "tourbi&egrave;res."</p>
+
+<p>After we had visited all the stalls we had tea (not in
+a private room) at a round table at one end of the hall
+near the buffet. M. Dupoutet de la Harpe, the Protestant
+pasteur who got up the bazaar, explaining that the
+people would so like to see us. I am always very dressy
+on those occasions, so I was dressed in black satin with
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_348" title="pg 348"> </a>
+a great deal of jet, and light blue feathers in my bonnet.
+I had just time to get home, have some tea, and see that
+my "orgue Mustel" had arrived and was properly placed
+and tuned to go with the piano, and to assist at a small
+rehearsal with M. Guillemain (organist at La Trinit&eacute;
+in Paris), for whom I am having a dinner to-night, M&eacute;rindol,
+and Miss Stuart, an American girl who has a fine
+voice. The "orgue Mustel" is small and looks like a
+harmonium, but it has wonderful tones, particularly
+when played by a master hand like Guillemain's.</p>
+
+<p>My dinner interested <em>me</em> very much&mdash;I hope the guests
+had the same impression. I called it my "dinner of organists,"
+and I tried to get as many of the great English
+organists as possible, but only two came (the notice was
+short), Dr. Stainer of St. Paul's and Dr. Bridge of
+Westminster Abbey. Both have splendid instruments,
+and it is a great pleasure to stay sometimes after a week-day
+service and hear a fugue rolling through those great
+vaulted aisles. I had only asked musical people, and
+warned them that it was <em>serious</em>. We were 24 at dinner,
+and about 100 in the evening. The music was in the
+ballroom and the organ sounded very well, quite a volume
+of sound. Guillemain played, of course, beautifully
+and made it give all it could. The duos, organ and piano,
+were charming. Miss Stuart sang very well. I found
+Dr. Bridge most sympathetic. He and Florence Williams
+made great friends, and he promised to play her a
+gavotte whenever she likes if she would dance. I think
+you would have liked the evening&mdash;it wasn't banal. Staal
+was sympathetic and interested, and asked me what was
+the next original entertainment I was contemplating.</p>
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_349" title="pg 349"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author">Wednesday, 31st.</p>
+
+<p>We have rather a worrying letter from Henrietta this
+morning saying their house in Paris was watched by the
+police, having been threatened by the dynamiters on account
+of a judge who lives in the house. All the locataires
+are leaving, and she is bothered, and wants to
+know what she must do with Francis (who always goes
+to her Thursday and Sunday). I want W. to write to
+the Pr&eacute;fet de Police to ask for an extra man, but he
+doesn't seem to attach importance to it&mdash;says no harm
+ever comes when a thing is announced beforehand. I
+can't help feeling uncomfortable.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S</em>.</h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+April 3, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>It is rather nice to-day. After breakfast we drove
+down to Battersea Park, not a very fashionable resort,
+and walked about along the river, which is always alive&mdash;boats,
+barges, steamers, children in battered old scows
+that look as if they would break in two on the smallest
+provocation, and loungers of all kinds, some fishing,
+most doing nothing and keeping up a running fire of chaff
+and criticisms. The river life plays a great part in London&mdash;the
+Thames is such a thoroughfare all about London,
+and a beautiful pleasure ground higher up by Maidenhead,
+Clieveden, etc. We dined this evening at Lady
+Mary Lloyd's. She sang very well after dinner, and
+we went later to Lady Ashburton's, who has a beautiful
+house crammed with pictures and curios of all kinds.
+She had a concert of "old music" with old instruments&mdash;spinet,
+viola, viol d'amour, etc. It was interesting in
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_350" title="pg 350"> </a>
+its way as a souvenir, but sounded weak and <em>tinkly</em>. In
+these days of great orchestras no one would listen to it.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Easter Tuesday, April 19, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>I am delighted to have Henrietta and Francis, the
+boy's first holidays since he has been in Paris, and he is
+enjoying himself extremely. He rides with his father
+every morning, and goes about all day with his friends.
+We are busy getting up a "toy symphony"&mdash;Mlle. Levisohn,
+Francis's piano mistress, organises it. Francis has
+the piano, Comte Vinci, our Roman friend (who plays
+extremely well), is first violin; a little boy, a friend of
+Mlle. Levisohn's, the 2nd, and the minor instruments are
+distributed among all the children, Edwardes, Lawrence,
+Billes, Deichmann, etc. We gave young Bille, son of
+the Danish Minister, the drum&mdash;but the unfortunate boy
+could do nothing with it, and his mother said he must
+have some lessons. I applied to Pontavice (our Military
+Attach&eacute;), who said he was sure one of his friends, an
+officer in the Guards, would arrange it for me, so accordingly
+there appeared one morning a gentleman (Mr.
+Lloyd, I think) who said his friend, Comte de Pontavice,
+had told him that I wished to have some lessons on the
+drum, and that the drum-major of the regiment was
+quite at my service. I hastily explained that the lessons
+were not for me, but for a young friend who was to
+play that instrument in a toy symphony. He didn't
+seem at all surprised at my wishing to learn to play the
+drum, and yet I can't help thinking that he hadn't often
+been applied to for lessons on the drum for an Ambassadress.
+He promised to send his man to the Danish
+Legation, and Mdme. de Bille told me that all the
+household was upset, and the maids distracted by the
+magnificent drum-major who came three or four times,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_351" title="pg 351"> </a>
+and retired to a sort of basement, where he and the boy
+rattled away on the drum. If I had ever imagined what
+an undertaking it was, I never should have agreed to
+the performance. The principal instruments, piano and
+violins, were all right, but all the small ones, quails,
+nightingales, and cuckoos (oh, the cuckoos!) were something
+awful. The children distracted (sometimes they
+had 25 measures to count), the mammas and governesses
+equally so, and the impartial assistants (who had no children
+taking part) remarking to me with absolute frankness
+that it was the most awful noise they had ever heard.
+Comte Vinci, first violin, was a tower of strength, and
+kept them all in order. It is awfully good of him to come
+and play with all those children.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Friday, April 22, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>I will write you about the performance at once, as I
+am too tired to do anything else, and have dined quietly
+at home. We had a last r&eacute;p&eacute;tition this morning&mdash;Mlle.
+Levisohn directing from a small platform covered with
+red cloth. For the first time I thought it would go&mdash;really
+almost all the instruments were in tune and in
+time. Francis had been giving private rehearsals all the
+morning to Wilhelm Deichmann (trumpet) and the
+child, I forget which one, that had the triangle. The
+performance began at 4, and the orchestra was most
+effective. All the young ladies were in white and the
+men in dress clothes and white boutonni&egrave;res. It was
+killing to see all eyes fixed upon Mlle. Levisohn as she
+stood on her platform with her baton raised. It really
+went extremely well. Pfeffer happened in, and said he
+had never heard the Romberg Symphony better given.
+After the music was over Francis and Hilda Deichmann
+played a little comedy, "La Souris," really very well&mdash;Mdme.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_352" title="pg 352"> </a>
+Th&eacute;nard had coached them both. They weren't
+at all shy, and looked funny perched on chairs, standing,
+afraid of an imaginary mouse. They wound up with a
+dance, Gevers leading a most spirited cotillon. Francis
+danced with Nannie, who looked very pretty. He was
+very proud of his American cousin. Mlle. Levisohn had
+many compliments, and I think she was pleased. She
+certainly took no end of trouble.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+Thursday, April 28th.</p>
+
+<p>I had a nice ride this morning with Pontavice. W.
+and Francis went off on Monday&mdash;W. to Laon and
+Francis to school. Last night Henrietta and I went to
+the Italian Embassy, where there was a contract party
+for Tornielli's niece, who is to marry the Marquis Paulucci,
+one of the secretaries. The fianc&eacute;e looked charming
+in pink satin, with a very pretty diamond tiara that
+her uncle had given her. There were a great many
+people. I had the Camerons with me&mdash;Nannie looking
+very pretty and chic in red satin with gold wings in
+her hair. I told her the dress was much too old and
+heavy for her, she should have been in white tulle, with
+nothing in her hair, but she says all the American girls
+wear satin. The Tornielli entertainments are always
+handsome; their full dress livery red is so effective.
+Henrietta and I have been driving about shopping. I
+never go near a shop alone, but Mrs. Edwardes told us
+there were wonderful "occasions" for silks at Marshall
+&amp; Snelgrove's. We did pick up several things not dear.
+The English shops are not at all like the French ones.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_353" title="pg 353"> </a></p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy, London</span>,<br >
+May 1, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>It is very cold to-day, and I think generally is on the
+1st of May. One can't imagine a Queen of the May,
+crowned with flowers, dancing around a May-Pole. We
+are rather shivering, with a good fire in the room. It is
+true that we have been sitting for some time at the window
+looking at the crowds of people pouring into the
+Park for their great demonstration (anti-capitalist). It
+seems to be all going quite quietly&mdash;there are processions,
+and banners, and brass bands (such horrors), the usual
+thing, and I am sure there will be no row and that nothing
+will happen&mdash;nothing ever does happen in England.</p>
+
+<p>The Salvation Army are also holding their service in
+the Park, so near that we can almost hear the hymns.
+There are always soldiers hovering near when they have
+their service; I wonder if it does any good. When we
+were at Dover last year I went quite often to their service&mdash;they
+had one almost every afternoon, late, on the
+beach. It was a curious sight, such a motley crowd,
+rugged old fishermen, boys (half water rats), women,
+children, and occasionally a well-dressed, prosperous
+small tradesman, often soldiers&mdash;some lounging on the
+outskirts of the little circle, some sitting on boats, some
+reverent, some merely curious, but all joining in the
+hymns. I must say it interested me very much; not the
+sermon, nor the preachers as a general thing, but the little
+earnest group gathered on the sands with the swash of
+the waves for an accompaniment, and the red coats of
+the soldiers making a patch of colour. Some of the
+women looked pretty even in their regulation poke-bonnets.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_354" title="pg 354"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy, London</span>,<br >
+May 18th.</p>
+
+<p>It is a beautiful, fine day. I did not perform the Drawing-room,
+but walked about in the crowd with Pontavice,
+which was decidedly amusing. We saw a good
+many people we knew in the carriages and talked to some
+of them. Very tired they looked, having been for hours
+in the string. I wanted too to see some of the handsome
+English turn-outs, as when we go ourselves we hardly
+see anything but colleagues. The policeman, who knew
+us, let us stand where we liked&mdash;I told him to stop the
+French Ambassador's carriage when it came out. He
+did, and I jumped in, much to the astonishment of the
+crowd. We had a pleasant dinner at Lady Delamere's.
+About the middle the electric light went out and we sat
+for a few minutes in perfect darkness, except for a succession
+of matches that Lord Wimborne, who was next
+to me, lit. The servants lost their heads, and didn't think
+at first of lighting candles which were on the table. It
+only lasted those few minutes. Of course such accidents
+will happen perpetually until the system is perfected and
+universally applied.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, May 20th.</p>
+
+<p>We had a pleasant dinner to-night at Lord Tweedmouth's
+and I went afterward to a very handsome ball
+at the Burtons' with Nannie and Pontavice. They have
+Chesterfield House&mdash;one of the best London houses&mdash;flowers
+and electric light everywhere, and such splendid
+pictures. All the smart women in London were there,
+and all with their tiaras, except one, who explained to me
+that tiaras should only be worn at Embassies, or when
+one was invited to meet Royalties, "which of course you
+understand, as you haven't put yours on"&mdash;so I didn't
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_355" title="pg 355"> </a>
+tell the reason, which was that I had forgotten mine,
+I so rarely wear anything in my hair, and a tiara is
+heavy; also I have to be "recoiff&eacute;e," which I hate. My
+hair is done in the morning, and walks or rides all day,
+and is merely pulled out a little at night.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Saturday, May 21, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>We dined to-night at the Trevelyans, all Conservatives.
+The Stanleys (African Stanley) were there. He
+looks as hard as steel, but I suppose couldn't do what he
+has done if he were not. Many say he wants to be an
+M.P. and is sure of his election. His wife can help him
+enormously. It is so curious to me to see all the women
+occupying themselves so energetically with politics. They
+go about the country canvassing for their husbands; wear
+the colours of the party; and have affiches sometimes in
+their windows. I saw one well-known political woman
+in London who had large bills posted on her window,
+"Vote for Lord R." We should be hooted in France if
+we did that sort of thing. My husband has been candidate
+very often, for many offices, but I have scarcely seen
+his name at the bottom of a circular and never heard him
+address a public meeting of any kind&mdash;in fact, have never
+been in the country when the elections were going on. It
+is rather curious, as women have such a strong position
+in France&mdash;a m&egrave;re de famille, and above all a grandmother,
+is somebody. A clever, strong-minded grandmother
+is a power in her family and immediate circle.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy, London</span>,<br >
+Wednesday, June 1, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>We had a funny experience to-night. We had been
+engaged for some time to dine with the Gladstones, to
+meet the Archbishop of Canterbury and Mrs. Benson.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_356" title="pg 356"> </a>
+Mrs. Gladstone wrote to me yesterday, asking me to
+come punctually at 7.45, as the Archbishop didn't like
+late hours (he is rather a delicate man) and had asked
+to dine early. We made a great effort to get there in
+time&mdash;and <em>did</em>; so did everybody else&mdash;except the Bensons.
+We waited one hour&mdash;then went to dinner (they
+had sent a messenger to Lambeth and the answer came
+back that the Archbishop and Mrs. Benson had started
+<em>hours</em> ago. Everyone was worried and feared there must
+have been an accident. At 9.30 o'clock, when dinner was
+practically over (we had got to the jellies and ices), a
+message was brought to Mr. Gladstone. He left the
+room and reappeared with the Bensons. The explanation
+was that Mrs. Gladstone had written her invitation
+from Dollis Hill, a place belonging to Lord Aberdeen,
+some miles out of London. They often stay there, so the
+Archbishop naturally imagined he was to dine there, and
+they had been driving about in the country. The poor
+old lady was dreadfully put out&mdash;"The Archbishop might
+have known that we were in London." Of course the
+dinner was all brought back and our evening was long.
+However, we managed to go for a moment to the Foreign
+Office. I said to Lady Salisbury I hoped it wasn't
+the last time we were supping with her at the Foreign
+Office (everyone says the Liberals are coming in again).
+"Will you think me very rude if I say I hope so, though
+of course I shall always want to see my friends in Arlington
+Street" (their private residence). I think she and
+Lord Salisbury are both tired and will be glad to have
+a rest, not that they will <em>socially</em>, for they are always
+receiving, both in London and at Hatfield. We got home
+fairly early, though the streets were crowded, Piccadilly
+something awful. It is a regular London night&mdash;carriages
+rolling in every direction, and all the world dining,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_357" title="pg 357"> </a>
+dancing, supping. W. was rather funny over the dinner
+and the long wait, but said that if he had been in Benson's
+place he would have gone straight home from
+Dollis Hill, and had a cup of tea in his library.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, July 2, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>We had a small luncheon party this morning to hear
+the band of the Garde R&eacute;publicaine, who have come
+over from Paris for a few days to the Exhibition. They
+play magnificently&mdash;we have been to hear them once or
+twice and I assure you when they play the "Marseillaise"
+it makes one's pulses leap. We had the Duke of Cambridge,
+Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar, Staals, Coventrys,
+etc. They played on the terrace&mdash;we had draped
+the balcony with red stuffs, and had some flowers and
+plants and about 70 chairs on the terrace. The Duke
+talked a great deal. As soon as luncheon was over he
+went straight to the library, which opens on the terrace.
+We presented the Chef-de-Musique, and they played at
+once a few bars of "God Save the Queen"; then the
+"Marseillaise," everyone standing. Someone said to the
+Duke, "It is very fine, but not an anthem like our 'God
+Save the Queen.'" "Non," he answered, "mais c'est un
+magnifique chant de guerre." They played for about an
+hour, people coming and going and standing about on the
+terrace. Some of our friends passing couldn't imagine
+what was going on&mdash;there was quite a crowd collected in
+the Park listening. My dress hadn't come from Paris,
+so I wore white, trimmed with Valenciennes; I thought
+a little of wearing a tiny tricolour bow, but didn't after
+all. One of the prettiest women there was Mrs. Astor,
+in black, with a big black picture hat.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_358" title="pg 358"> </a></p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Walmer Castle</span>,<br >
+July 17, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>We came down here yesterday and hoped (at least I
+did) to have a lovely day on the water. Lord Dufferin
+is a great yachtsman and cruises all about in his own
+little boat. At the present moment it is pouring&mdash;I can
+hardly see the sea&mdash;every now and then comes a partial
+break and I get a glimpse of a great grey expanse of
+water. We got down for dinner last night; a small party,
+as there are not many bedrooms&mdash;Lord and Lady Wantage
+(he such a nice man, one of the few Englishmen who
+has the "L&eacute;gion d'Honneur," which he got in the Crimean
+War), the Marchesa Chigi from Rome, and various
+young men. The dinner was handsome&mdash;Lord Dufferin
+always a charming host&mdash;and we finished the evening in
+the big drawing-room, where I always feel as if I were
+in the cabin of a ship, it is so directly on the water. It
+looks exactly as it did in Lady Granville's time, and in
+fact Lady D. told me she had not changed anything.
+When I went to the drawing-room this morning I found
+the three ladies talking and trying to persuade themselves
+that it would clear after lunch. I said I did not mind
+weather and could not stay in the house all day, so we
+agreed to equip ourselves suitably and go for a walk
+after lunch. In the meantime Lady D. took me over the
+house&mdash;we went to see Wellington's room (where he
+died). His little camp-bed is still there, and some interesting
+relics, bits of uniform, and one or two letters
+framed and hung upon the wall. The room is small, in
+one of the towers, nothing magnificent or ducal about it.
+In fact the whole house is simple and not large, one good
+drawing-room, looking straight out to sea, so that sitting
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_359" title="pg 359"> </a>
+inside you see the big ships pass apparently close under
+the windows&mdash;a fair dining-room, no library or billiard-room,
+and a few bedrooms&mdash;an ideal place for a <em>water</em>
+life. The moat has been changed into a garden and there
+is a tennis-court somewhere, though I didn't exactly make
+out where. We went for a walk along the sea wall with
+waterproofs and umbrellas, and I wondered if we should
+be blown over into the sea, the wind came in such violent
+gusts sometimes. It seems a child and a perambulator
+were blown off the other day, and strange to say nothing
+was hurt, neither child nor perambulator&mdash;only the nurse
+had hysterics. We walked to Deal and paid Lady Herschell
+a visit. I rather demurred at going in, as my hair
+was decidedly ruffled and I was very wet, but they all
+wanted to and I didn't look any worse than any of the
+others. The Castle is fine, interesting&mdash;not so large as
+Walmer, but with always the same beautiful situation
+close to the sea. It is one of the Cinque Ports, and Lord
+Sydney had it as long as he lived. The Herschells walked
+back with us, and coming home was pleasanter, as the
+rain had stopped and the wind diminished a little. I
+came up after tea, as I was a little tired and thought I
+would take advantage of a quiet moment to write to you.
+I will finish to-night, as we have come upstairs early.
+We had rather an amusing evening. The young people
+proposed playing "Historical Portraits," and insisted
+upon our all taking part. I protested vehemently, as I
+never have drawn anything in my life. I remember the
+drawing class years ago at Mrs. Ward's, when we all
+copied a Greek girl with an amphora on her head, and
+the tears I shed over my performance. The amphora
+(that might have been anything) was crooked and toppling
+over, and all her arms and legs were of different
+lengths. Even the drawing master was obliged to say
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_360" title="pg 360"> </a>
+I had no facility with my pencil. The game is really an
+undertaking. Everyone is given paper and pencils and
+you have 5 minutes by the watch to draw a historical
+portrait or portraits. My neighbour, one of the sons,
+was doing something most elaborate&mdash;a quantity of figures&mdash;my
+other neighbour, about my calibre, looked
+helpless, but said she must do something. What do you
+think she did? "The House that Jack Built," an infantine
+production with 4 lines and a chimney, the sort
+of thing that we all have done as children. That gave me
+courage, particularly as she had played the game before,
+and knew what could be received, so I drew the "Man
+in the Moon." Can't you see it&mdash;a large, round O with
+dots for eyes, nose, and mouth. Some of the drawings
+were really very clever&mdash;the "Field of the Cloth of Gold"
+with a great many figures, and Raleigh and his cloak
+before Elizabeth; Queen Elizabeth with a chignon and a
+short bicycle skirt. We amused ourselves very much.
+We leave to-morrow morning, W. by the first train, as
+he had an early rendezvous in London. I shall go a little
+later with the Wantages.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br >
+Friday, July 22, 1892.</p>
+
+<p>W. and I drove out to Lyon House this afternoon to
+a garden party at the Duke of Northumberland's. It is
+a fine old place, about an hour's drive from London, with
+big iron gates, with the Percy lion with its tail straight
+out on top. The Duke did not appear&mdash;his daughter-in-law,
+Countess Percy (who is a daughter of the Duke of
+Argyll) did the honours. She showed us the great corridor
+and large drawing-room with a fine Adam's ceiling,
+and then we went out into the garden, where there were
+quantities of tents, carpets, tea-tables&mdash;and half London.
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_361" title="pg 361"> </a>
+Everyone was talking elections. I sympathised with
+Philip Stanhope, who has been beaten, and said, "Why
+didn't you spend more money while you were about it?"
+He was not in the least outraged at such a question, and
+replied promptly, "I should have certainly, if I hadn't
+been so sure of being named." They say a great deal of
+money has been spent this time.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">London</span>, July 27th.</p>
+
+<p>We had our last outing for this year last night; a
+handsome dinner at Tornielli's for the Duc d'Aoste.
+He is a tall, good-looking young fellow, decidedly dashing,
+and inclined to amuse himself. He is a curious contrast
+to his father, whom I liked extremely, but who was
+cold and silent, looked like a Spanish grandee of the
+Middle Ages, or a soldier-monk&mdash;a very striking face
+and figure. Countess Somaglia (n&eacute;e Gwendoline Doria)
+was among the guests, with her two daughters. We
+talked a little of old days in Rome. I remember so well
+when she was married.</p>
+
+<p>To-morrow I shall make our paquets, and we four,
+Francis and I, May and Beatrice, leave for Bayreuth and
+the Tyrol by the Club train on Saturday. I ordered my
+mountain dresses at Nicoll's&mdash;two skirts to one jacket&mdash;a
+real short one faced with leather for mountaineering,
+and a longer one, shortish too, for travelling, in blue
+serge; a shortish blue linen, and an alpaca. All the
+personnel dine to-night for good-bye. This is my 9th
+season in London&mdash;I wonder if I shall ever see it again.
+I have a presentiment that next year we shall only go
+back to take leave.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_362" title="pg 362"> </a></p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br >
+February 1, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>We came over last night; a very good crossing, the
+shortest I ever made; we were just one hour on the boat.
+Lady Salisbury was on board, coming from the Riviera.
+We talked all the way over. She is very sorry we are
+going&mdash;says the Queen will regret M. Waddington very
+much; that she had great confidence in him, and now, at
+her age, rather dreads seeing strange faces around her.
+W. is very glad to get back to France&mdash;I too. After all,
+ten years is a long time to be away from one's country.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Sunday, 5th.</p>
+
+<p>W. and I drove out this afternoon to White Lodge to
+say good-bye to Princess Mary. As we came quite near
+to the house we crossed very quickly two gentlemen in
+a hansom and just recognised the Prince of Wales and
+Prince George. Everyone is saying that that marriage
+will be arranged. Princess Mary and Princess May were
+alone, and decidedly more cheerful. Princess May still
+in black, but with no cr&ecirc;pe and a little jet. Princess
+Mary was charming and friendly as she always is, and
+seemed really sorry we were going, also wanted to know
+who was coming in our place; but that I couldn't tell her.
+She promised to come to tea one afternoon at the Embassy
+before we went away. Various people came in to
+tea, as they always do here on Sunday afternoon, and
+someone said the marriage was certainly decided and
+would be announced after the 27th, which was to have
+been the wedding-day last year. They certainly looked
+much brighter and happier than I expected to see them.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_363" title="pg 363"> </a></p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br >
+February 13, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>I went this afternoon to the House of Commons to
+hear Mr. Gladstone make his great Irish speech. I had
+an excellent place in the front row of the ladies' gallery,
+and heard and saw everything. The House was packed,
+chairs all along the gangway&mdash;the Prince, Dukes of
+York and Teck in their places, quantities of peers and
+some diplomats&mdash;no Ambassadors, which surprised me.
+I know that W. always prefers reading a speech the next
+day, but I thought some of the others would be there.
+Mr. Gladstone was much cheered by both sides when he
+came in (a tribute to his age and intelligence rather than
+to his politics). He rose to speak at a quarter to 4, finishing
+at 5 minutes past six (two hours and 20 minutes).
+He was much quieter and less passionate than I had expected.
+There was no vehement appeal for the wrongs
+of Ireland. It was more an "expos&eacute; de motifs" than a
+real speech, but it was an extraordinary effort for a man
+of his age (83). His voice was so clear and strong,
+never faltering: a little weaker and lower perhaps toward
+the end. I suppose it is the last great political speech he
+will ever make.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br >
+March 3, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>We are beginning our tourn&eacute;e of farewell visits, and
+to-day we have been to take leave of the Prince and Princess
+of Wales at Marlborough House. I had not seen
+the Princess since Prince Eddie's death. I wore blue
+velvet and my Jubilee medal. We were received at the
+door by all the household&mdash;Probyn, Lord Suffield, Stanley
+Clark, Lady Suffield, and Miss Knollys. Prince
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_364" title="pg 364"> </a>
+George was in the first drawing-room. The Prince and
+Princess with two daughters in the big long room. I
+can't say I found the Princess changed or grown older.
+She looked sad, but it was the same slight, youthful
+figure. She was still in deep plain black (woollen stuff)
+with no ornaments. She was charming, with the sweet,
+simple manner she always has. Tears came into her
+eyes when she said she hadn't seen me for so long on
+account of her mourning. I asked her about her first
+grandchild&mdash;Princess Louise Fife's little girl. She said
+she was a dear little thing, talked a great deal, trotted
+about everywhere, and called her "Granny." W. and the
+Prince talked together, but we didn't stay very long. I
+didn't say a word to the Princess about Prince Eddie
+(they told me not to), only just as we were going I said
+I hoped the end of the year would bring her happiness
+and blessing. She squeezed my hand, but her lips quivered
+and she couldn't speak. She has been unfailing to
+us always and said we should certainly meet again, and
+that I must always let her know when I came to England.
+I begin to realise now that we are going, with all these
+leave-takings. After all we have been here 10 years, and
+that is a good piece out of one's life.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+March 5, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>I wish you had been here yesterday to see the farewell
+dinner for W. at the Mansion House. It was a great
+tribute to a departing Ambassador&mdash;all the distinguished
+men in England assembled to say good-bye. The Lady
+Mayoress had asked me to dine with her and bring anyone
+I wanted, so I took Hilda and Mdme. de la Villestreux.
+Hilda and I started together a little before 7.
+As we drew near the Mansion House there was quite
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_365" title="pg 365"> </a>
+a crowd; quantities of policemen, and empty carriages
+driving away. We went in by the same entrance as the
+men, and then turned off sharp to the right and were
+conducted to the drawing-room of the Lady Mayoress.
+I wore black moir&eacute; with a great band of orange velvet
+on the corsage, and all the jewels I possessed&mdash;tiara,
+pearls, and diamond necklace and diamond stars and
+ornaments fastened on the front of the dress, as I knew
+we were to sit in the gallery after dinner to hear the
+speeches. We found Mdme. de la Villestreux already
+there&mdash;there were 16 women. The Lady Mayoress presented
+them all to me. They were all ex-Lady Mayoresses&mdash;"ladies
+who had passed the chair," which it seems
+is the technical term. She also gave me a splendid bouquet
+tied with a tricolour ribbon. The dinner was very
+good, the traditional London public dinner menu&mdash;turtle
+soup, salmon, etc. There was very handsome silver on
+the table: great massive bowls and flagons and beautiful
+flowers&mdash;very quickly served, and really very pleasant.
+After the first five minutes everyone talked. Some of the
+women were handsome, all well dressed and with quantities
+of diamonds. Just as we were finishing a servant
+came to summon us to the gallery. The loving cup was
+going round and the speeches were to begin. The Lady
+Mayoress led the way to the gallery in the great banqueting
+hall directly opposite the table d'honneur. It was
+a striking sight, particularly that table where was the
+Lord Mayor in his robes, and all the diplomatists with
+stars and broad ribbons. There was a blaze of light and
+at first I couldn't recognise anyone (we were very high),
+and then I saw W. standing, drinking out of the loving
+cup, with the Lord Mayor on one side and Rustem on the
+other, and gradually I made out a good many people.
+There were two long tables besides the table d'honneur,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_366" title="pg 366"> </a>
+and they told me about 300 guests. All the representative
+men and intelligence of England assembled to say
+God-speed to the departing Ambassador. The Speaker
+and Lord Herschell (Presidents of the two Houses) were
+both there, and men of every possible coterie from Lord
+Lorne to James Knowles of the "Nineteenth Century."
+As soon as the regular toasts had been drunk there was
+a pause and then came the toast of the evening with
+"bumpers," "The French Ambassador." There were
+roars of applause when W. got on his legs, and I must
+confess to a decided choke in my throat. W. spoke (in
+English, which they had asked him to do) very simply
+and very well, going back to his early days. When he
+said that he had done his best always to keep up good
+and friendly relations with England, and that he had
+had much sympathy from all sides, he was much cheered;
+but much more when he said that perhaps what had
+given him more friends in England than any of his public
+acts as a statesman was the fact that he had rowed in
+the University eight at Cambridge. Then there were
+roars of applause, and he heard quite distinctly the people
+below saying&mdash;"he is quite right, we always remember
+it." He was quite &eacute;mu when he came to the end; his
+voice taking that grave tone I like so much when he said
+"good-bye." One heard every word. He was much
+cheered when he finished. The Lady Mayoress came
+and shook hands with me and asked me if I wasn't proud
+of my husband. Some of the speeches were charming&mdash;the
+Speaker's particularly; Lord Lorne also made a very
+pretty little speech, and Rustem (Turk), who answered
+the toast for the "Corps Diplomatique," made a very
+good speech. I can't remember all the names and all the
+speeches, but it was a most brilliant assembly, and as
+Countess Deym said to me, a wonderful tribute to W. As
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_367" title="pg 367"> </a>
+soon as the speeches were over we all went down to the
+great hall, where I had a perfect d&eacute;fil&eacute; of compliments
+and regrets, Lord Lorne again repeating his words "that
+W.'s departure was a national calamity." All had something
+friendly to say&mdash;the two Law Lords, Judge Bowen
+and Sir Francis Jeune, most sympathetic. S. too told
+me I should be much pleased&mdash;he had never seen such a
+demonstration in England for a foreigner. Of course
+some of the young men came in to the Embassy to talk
+the dinner over, and gave their impressions. They were
+all much pleased. W. certainly was, and said he felt
+quite &eacute;mu when he saw all the faces turned to him
+and knew that every word he said would tell&mdash;also he
+knew quite well that his reference to the boat-race would
+appeal much more to the <em>general</em> public than any expressions
+of good feeling toward England. He hasn't always
+had an easy time with his English name and his English
+education. Of course it has been very useful to him
+here, as he has been thrown with all sorts of people, and
+could understand the English point of view, but in
+France they were always afraid he was too English. I
+think when he has gone they will realise at home what
+good work he has done here <em>because</em> he understands them.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy, London</span>,<br >
+March 8, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>W. and I went together to the Mansion House, Tuesday,
+to pay a farewell visit to the Lady Mayoress, who
+was receiving formally with music, tea, and quantities of
+people. The Lord Mayor appeared too when he heard
+we were there, and was quite pleased when W. said how
+gratified and touched he had been by the banquet and
+the universal expression of regret at his departure. The
+Lord Mayor said to him, "You can't find any warmer
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_368" title="pg 368"> </a>
+friends, Ambassador, in France than those you are leaving
+here, but I quite understand that a man can't live
+long out of his own country." We had just time to get
+back to the Embassy, dress, and start for Windsor, where
+we dined: our last stay in the yellow rooms. The dinner
+was almost entirely Royal&mdash;the Empress Frederick,
+Prince and Princess Christian, Prince and Princess
+Henry of Battenberg, Duchess of Connaught, del Mazo,
+the Spanish Ambassador, I the only other lady. The
+cercle was not long&mdash;I thought the Queen looked tired.
+She sat down at once; said she wouldn't say good-bye, as
+she hoped to see me once more at Buckingham Palace.
+She said at her age she rather dreaded saying good-bye,
+also seeing new faces, and she was very sorry we were
+going. "Who comes to replace you?" I said I thought
+nothing was yet decided. I talked some time to the other
+Princesses after the Queen had cong&eacute;died me. The Empress
+was as usual charming, and said, "I am afraid we
+sha'n't meet again often, Mdme. Waddington, you won't
+cross to Berlin, and I can't go to Paris, but that isn't my
+fault. I think we shall have to meet in Italy, where I
+first had the pleasure of seeing you." The end of the
+evening we spent as usual in the drawing-room with the
+"household." I had quite a talk with Prince Henry,
+who is very good-looking and attractive. We left the
+drawing-room about eleven&mdash;W. going as usual to
+smoke, and I to my rooms. I sat some time in front of
+the fire in the beautiful little yellow drawing-room wondering
+if I ever should see it again, and going back to
+our first Windsor visit, when all was so new and strange
+to me. I wonder where we shall be this time next year,
+and if we shall settle down easily to our quiet life in
+France. W. came in rather late from the smoking-room:
+he said all the men were so nice to him, and seemed really
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_369" title="pg 369"> </a>
+sorry he was going; also were very anxious to know if
+he wasn't sorry himself.</p>
+
+<p>This morning (Wednesday) it was beautiful. I
+breakfasted as usual in my rooms and sat some time in
+the deep window recess watching all the people coming
+and going. There is always so much life about Windsor
+when the Queen is there. About 10 Colonel Byng came
+to take us to the Chapel to see the sarcophagus of Prince
+Eddie, which is enormous and has rather too much
+colour&mdash;almost gaudy. I went with Hilda the other day
+to Gilbert's studio to see the monument he is making,
+and which I liked. It is very elaborate and complicated,
+but the sleeping figure good: so reposeful and young;
+the long straight limbs. One quite realised a young life
+cut short. Gilbert is clever and interesting, and begged
+us to criticise freely.</p>
+
+<p>We got home about 12 and I took a short turn in the
+Park before breakfast, which was full as usual when the
+Queen passes. She came this afternoon for two Drawing-rooms.
+I shall do my last to-morrow&mdash;I sha'n't go
+to the second.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br >
+March 10, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>I am doing all my last things. I went to the Drawing-room
+yesterday (our last). Countess Spencer presented
+the ladies, and looked very stately and handsome in
+black, with splendid jewels. The Queen didn't stay very
+long, but looked less tired, I thought, than the other night
+at Windsor. I said good-bye to a great many people
+whom I sha'n't see again. At this season plenty of people
+are still in the country, and only come up for a day or two
+for Drawing-rooms, theatres, etc. Teesdale and I had
+quiet an affectionate parting. For so long now we have
+made our entr&eacute;e together into the Throne Room: he
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_370" title="pg 370"> </a>
+holding my hand and both of us making a deep bow and
+curtsey at the door, that we have become quite like
+puppets.</p>
+
+<p>This afternoon I have had my farewell audience from
+the Queen at Buckingham Palace at 4 o'clock. I wore
+as usual the blue velvet, which will walk about alone
+soon, as it has done all the ceremonies lately; my pearls,
+and a cr&ecirc;me velvet bonnet with light blue feathers. I
+went in the ordinary open carriage (not gala). The
+gala carriage with the powdered wigs, big footmen,
+canes, etc., went out yesterday for the last time to the
+Drawing-room. I had some difficulty in getting into
+the court-yard, which was filled with carriages, luggage-vans,
+soldiers, etc., as the Queen was leaving this afternoon
+for Windsor. I was sent from one entrance to
+another, in spite of the tricolour cockade, and finally
+drew up at a side-door (where a shabby little victoria
+was standing). A man in ordinary black livery appeared,
+and after a short parley (in which I intervened
+myself, saying that I was the French Ambassadress and
+had an audience with the Queen) he showed me into a
+room on the ground floor. I waited about 15 minutes
+(it was 5 minutes to 4 when I arrived) and then Lady
+Southampton, Lady in Waiting, appeared, with many
+apologies for being late&mdash;she didn't think I would come
+so soon (and I was a little afraid of being late, they kept
+me so long in the court-yard). We went upstairs to a
+small drawing-room looking out on the court-yard, and
+in about 10 minutes the same servant in black appeared,
+saying, "The Queen is ready to receive the French Ambassadress."
+Lady Southampton said she couldn't come,
+as the Queen wished to see me alone, so I followed the
+servant down a long corridor&mdash;he stopped at a door,
+knocked, a voice said "come in," and I found myself in
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_371" title="pg 371"> </a>
+the Royal presence. It was a small, ordinary room,
+rather like a sort of waiting-room, no traces of habitation,
+nothing pretty or interesting. The Queen was
+standing, very simply dressed in black (her travelling
+dress she said, she was starting at once for Windsor)
+before a writing-table which was in the middle of
+the room, covered with books and papers. She was
+most kind, made me sit down on the sofa next to her,
+and said she was afraid she had kept me waiting, but
+that she had been kept by a visit from Mr. Gladstone&mdash;she
+then paused a moment, so I made a perfectly banal
+remark, "what a wonderful man, such an extraordinary
+intelligence," to which she replied, "He is very deaf."
+She expressed great regret at our departure, and hoped
+we were sorry to leave England and all our friends, but
+after all Paris was not very far off, and she hoped she
+should see me again. She was sure M. Waddington
+would find plenty to do when he got back&mdash;would he
+continue his literary work? I said he would certainly
+have plenty to do, as he was Senator and Membre de
+l'Institut, but that we should both miss the Embassy life
+and the varied interests it brought. She repeated that she
+hoped to see me again, so I asked if ever I came back to
+England might I write to one of her ladies, and ask if I
+could be received. "Pray do, and I shall not say good-bye,
+but au revoir." We talked about 15 minutes about
+all sorts of things&mdash;some of our colleagues&mdash;our successor,
+etc. She asked again who was coming to London,
+and said, "My last two Ambassadors to France were ex-Viceroys."
+It seemed to me that she said it on purpose,
+and that she wanted France to send one of her best men
+to St. James's. I repeated the remark to my husband,
+and the chancellerie. It is quite true. The present British
+Ambassador, Lord Dufferin, is certainly the first
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_372" title="pg 372"> </a>
+diplomatist they have. He has had every distinguished
+post England can offer&mdash;Ambassador to St. Petersburg
+and Rome, Governor of Canada, and Viceroy of India,
+and has played a great part. His predecessor, Lord
+Lytton, was also Viceroy of India, and very distinguished,
+though in a different way from Lord Dufferin.
+I rather fancy that Montebello would be an acceptable
+appointment. He knows English well, has English relations,
+and I should think would like the post, but I have
+really no idea. Some of the papers say that Ribot wants
+the place, but I think he prefers home politics and would
+not care to leave France; however, I could not tell the
+Queen anything definite. She kissed me at parting, and
+gave me her photograph, signed, in a handsome silver
+frame&mdash;then half turned her back, moving to a door on
+the other side of the room, so that I could get out easily
+and not altogether &agrave; reculons, which would have been
+awkward to open the door. I tucked my parcel under
+my arm, opened the door myself (a thing I don't often
+do in these days, except my bedroom door) and found
+myself again in the long corridor. My audience was
+over, and I daresay I shall never see the Queen again.
+She was unfailing to us both from the first moment, always
+welcomed us with the same smile, was always inclined
+to talk about anything and to understand and
+smooth over any little difficulty or misunderstanding. I
+think she is a wonderful woman and a wonderful Queen.
+In her long life she must have had many difficult questions
+and responsibilities, and certainly England has not
+suffered under her rule. I met Lady S. in the corridor,
+who came downstairs with me, and said she was quite
+sure the Queen meant it when she said she would like
+to see me again, that she <em>never</em> said anything she didn't
+mean.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_373" title="pg 373"> </a></p>
+
+<p>I found Hilda and one or two friends when I got home
+who told me that the English ladies, headed by Ladies
+Salisbury and Spencer, representing the two parties,
+Conservative and Liberal, were going to give me a souvenir
+(in memory of my ten years in London), a jewel
+of some kind. I was rather pleased. The last days of
+adieux are rather melancholy. I shall be glad when they
+are over. I forgot to say that Wednesday I had a message
+about 3 o'clock from the Princess Beatrice, saying
+she and Prince Henry of Battenberg would come about
+5 and ask me for a cup of tea. The notice was so short
+that I hadn't time to ask anyone except Hilda, who happened
+in, and some of the secretaries. They came alone
+and were most friendly&mdash;said they had not given me any
+more time on purpose, as they didn't want a party, but
+merely to see us. They were as easy and pleasant as
+possible, she talking much more than she ever does in
+the grand monde. I told her I hoped she would let me
+know if ever she came to Paris. She said. "Oh, yes&mdash;and
+we will do a lively play together."</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+Tuesday, March 14, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>I went this afternoon with Mdme. de la Villestreux
+to the French bazaar at Kensington Town Hall to receive
+Princess Mary, who opened it (and very much better
+than I did the day I performed the same thing). Mdme.
+de Bylandt, de Bille, Mdme. du Poutel de la Harpe were
+all there waiting at the foot of the stairs. Princess Mary
+was easy and charming, and I really think was not bored.
+She had all the ladies presented to her, talked to them all,
+knew apparently all their relations, young and old, complimented
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_374" title="pg 374"> </a>
+them on the arrangement of their stalls, said
+the various objects made and presented by the Ladies'
+Art Association were very artistic and useful (I wish
+you could have seen them&mdash;<em>our</em> pincushions at the Vente
+des Diaconnesses were things of beauty next to them),
+took her tea, said the cake was so good, and delighted
+everybody. When I see how easy it is for Royalties to
+win golden opinions with a few gracious words and a
+smile, I wonder at the stiff, stand-off manner some of
+them adopt. Princess May looked very slight and pretty,
+and is always well dressed. I again wore the blue velvet,
+which will fall off me soon, but this time I changed the
+bonnet and wore a black jet one with a red rose, and it
+wasn't very pretty.</p>
+
+<p class="author">March 16, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>We had a last musical afternoon to-day at Marie Humlicher's:
+8 hands, two pianos, she directing and the performers
+being Ctesse. de Bylandt, Mlle. de Staal, Hilda
+and I. We played Mozart and Schumann, really very
+well. Mlle. Humlicher has a nice big room over a coutouri&egrave;re
+on Fulham Road. She always gives us tea after
+the music, which is generally brought up by a tidy little
+English maid with her cap and apron. She was astounded
+this afternoon when the tea was brought in by a most
+elegant young person, dressed in the latest fashion, and
+attended by a second, also most stylish&mdash;however, as the
+tea was all right she did not say anything; neither did I,
+but I waited a moment after the other ladies had gone
+and she had a mysterious conversation on the stairs and
+came in highly amused. It seems the two elegant ladies
+were the dressmaker and her assistant. When they saw
+all these ambassadorial equipages at their door&mdash;enormous
+powdered footmen, wigs, cockades, etc., also Hilda's
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_375" title="pg 375"> </a>
+beautiful carriage (Deichmann has splendid horses
+always and everything perfectly well turned out), their
+curiosity got the better of them and they felt they <em>must</em>
+see the swells; so they interviewed the maid, installed her
+in their rooms to attend to any customer who might
+come, got into their swell garments, and brought up the
+tea. Wasn't it funny? Luckily we were all rather elegant.
+I had been paying some farewell visits, and it so
+happened that we were all up to the mark. I have sometimes
+gone to Mlle. Humlicher's on foot in a cloth dress,
+as it is not far from the Embassy. I am sorry to have
+done with those afternoons&mdash;Mlle. Humlicher plays
+beautifully&mdash;she is a pupil of Rubinstein's and has a real
+artistic nature.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Friday, March 17th.</p>
+
+<p>I had a line from Lady Salisbury yesterday, asking if
+to-day at 5 would suit me to receive the ladies and my
+present. I accepted of course, asking her about how
+many would come. She answered, between 50 and 60,
+she thought. As the moment drew near I got rather
+nervous, for W. said they would certainly make me a
+little speech and that I would have to reply, and he suggested
+thinking it over; but that I refused and said I
+must trust to the inspiration of the moment. I wore my
+purple satin. The ladies arrived very punctually. There
+were one or two men, all the personnel, including W.,
+and one or two of my friends, Sir George Arthur,
+Gevers, etc. Lady Salisbury asked me where I would
+stand, so I put myself in the middle of the big drawing-room,
+under the chandelier. Lady Salisbury was spokeswoman,
+flanked on one side by Lady Spencer, the other
+by Mrs. Gladstone; all the other ladies, including Ladies
+Londonderry, Cadogan, Shrewsbury, Harcourt, etc.,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_376" title="pg 376"> </a>
+forming a circle round me. Lady Salisbury made a very
+pretty little speech, beginning&mdash;"Madame Waddington,
+Ambassadress," and saying they hoped I would sometimes
+think of England and my English friends, that I
+had been there so long that I seemed one of themselves,
+etc., and then handed me a blue velvet &eacute;tui. I don't
+know exactly what I replied (I was rather &eacute;mue and W.
+just opposite to me was looking at me hard), but evidently
+only a few words, to say that the ten years I had
+spent in London had been very happy ones, that France
+wasn't very far away, and that I hoped to come back
+often&mdash;but I think they understood that I was pleased
+and grateful for the present, and above all with the
+feeling that prompted it. The jewel is very handsome,
+a circle of large, beautiful white diamonds with a large
+pearl in the centre and another as pendant. It was passed
+around the company and they all found it very handsome.
+We had tea in the blue room, and I talked to them
+all and said what was perfectly true, that they had been
+ten perfectly happy years we had spent in London, and
+ten years is a good piece out of one's life. They left me
+a book with the names of all the "signataires." W. was
+much pleased, and I fancy it was rather an unusual
+demonstration. One of these days, when Francis's wife
+wears it, it will be a historic jewel. After all the company
+had gone the secretaries stayed on a little while.
+I think they are all sorry we are going, and they certainly
+regret W. as a chief. They all say he is so absolutely
+just.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+Monday, March 27, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>We walked about in the Row this morning. It was
+cold and raw, not many people. We dined at the Italian
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_377" title="pg 377"> </a>
+Embassy in the evening with Tornielli. The Comtesse
+is at Naples with her niece, the young Marquise Paulucci,
+who has just had a fine boy. The dinner was small,
+mostly colleagues. We sat after dinner in the red drawing-room,
+which is very picturesque&mdash;a fine old carved
+chimney, enormous, and beautiful old red silk hangings
+just faded enough to give an old-world look. He has
+brought quantities of things from his palace in Italy.
+Lincoln was there. He knows who his successor is&mdash;Mr.
+Bayard. We don't know ours.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate,</span><br >
+March 29, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>Princess Mary and Princess May had promised to
+come once to tea before I left and they named to-day.
+I asked very few people&mdash;Duchess of St. Albans, Ladies
+Arran, Randolph Churchill, Hilda, and some men, Deym,
+Tornielli, Mensdorff, George Arthur, etc. Lady Randolph
+is very musical, plays extremely well and is very
+kind to all the artists. I asked Mlle. Jansen (Swedish),
+who sang quite beautifully&mdash;a fine voice, such a ring in
+it. She is going to America, and I am sure she will have
+a great success. Both Princesses were as cordial and
+nice as possible, said it would seem strange not to see
+me about everywhere any more. "Of course you will
+come back to London," Princess Mary said; "but it can
+never be the same thing&mdash;you will be a visitor; now you
+are living your life with us, and London is your home."
+Princess May looked very pretty, and so bright that I
+fancy her engagement is settled&mdash;everyone seems to
+think so. I didn't say anything to her, but when I parted
+from Princess Mary at the foot of the stairs I couldn't
+help saying that I heard that very soon all her friends
+would be able to congratulate her, and that as I was
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_378" title="pg 378"> </a>
+going I would like to think that very happy days were
+before her. She said "I hope so&mdash;I think so," and kissed
+me. At the door she turned and said, "I wonder when I
+shall have tea and music again in these rooms. I shall
+always think with pleasure of the French Embassy."
+We had a farewell dinner at our cousin's, Mrs. Mostyn's.
+Lord Herschell was on one side of me and talked a great
+deal about the banquet at the Mansion House. He said
+W.'s English was so good, too classical if anything; said
+he would like very much to hear him speak in French
+and at the Tribune. He couldn't imagine such a quiet
+speech and manner in the fiery French Chamber. I told
+him the Senate was much more sedate than the Chamber
+(consequently much less amusing) and that he would
+often hear a perfectly quiet academic speech there.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br >
+Good Friday, March 31, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>We went to the afternoon service at St. Paul's, where
+the anthem was beautiful. There were a great many
+people, a great many men following the service, and a
+great many also walking about looking at the tombs and
+tablets.</p>
+
+<p>We really have not a moment these last days. I shall
+go over a little before W., about the 12th of next month.
+We have had all sorts of leave-takings. The Empress
+Frederick received us the other day&mdash;always charming
+and interesting, but still talking of her visit to Paris,
+which she can't get over. She said to me, "I would have
+liked so much to see you in Paris, in your own house.
+M. Waddington promised me a dinner with all your
+clever men." "I should have been much pleased and
+honoured, Majest&eacute;; perhaps a little later he may have
+that pleasure&mdash;but I'm afraid&mdash;&mdash;"</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_379" title="pg 379"> </a></p>
+
+<p>We had all a pleasant visit to Princess Louise at Kensington,
+who said she would certainly let us know when
+she came to Paris&mdash;I think she often comes. We went
+to White Lodge, of course, where they all look so
+happy I can't help thinking that the marriage is arranged.
+We also went, for a farewell cup of tea, to
+Alma Tadema, who receives once a week in his beautiful
+studio. He is going to send me an engraving of one
+of his lovely Greek pictures. His atelier is most picturesque
+and full of interesting things. He has a set of
+panels painted by all his artist friends which are gems.
+He is very attractive himself&mdash;so simple. There were
+a good many people there.</p>
+
+<p>We had a dinner and party (music) last week at Lady
+Wimborne's. Their entertainments are always successful.
+The house (Hamilton House) is one of the best in
+London. Lord B., a great friend of W.'s, took me to
+get an ice at the buffet, and was deploring W.'s departure.
+"Such a pity that Waddington had gone back to France
+after graduating so brilliantly at Cambridge. He would
+certainly have made the same career in England, and
+would have been Premier in England, so much better
+than being Premier in France"&mdash;a truly British sentiment
+(what makes their strength, perhaps), but naif.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Albert Gate</span>,<br >
+Easter Sunday, April 2, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>My last Easter in London, a beautiful bright day.
+Henrietta, Francis, and I walked down to Westminster
+Abbey in the morning. It was crowded, as it always is&mdash;Easter
+is such a splendid service&mdash;the fine old Easter
+hymn always the same, with the Hallelujah echoing
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_380" title="pg 380"> </a>
+through the vaults and arches. We had a small dinner
+in the evening&mdash;Jusserand (who had come back to see
+his friends, of whom he has thousands here), the La
+Villestreux, the personnel, and a few young people in the
+evening. I wore my jewel, which they all found very
+handsome.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br >
+April 9th.</p>
+
+<p>Henrietta, Francis, and I went to the Temple Church
+this morning. It is a grand old place, right in the heart
+of London. We were met at the door by one of the
+"benchers," who gave us very good places and took us
+all over the church and various halls after service. Francis
+had never been there and was wildly interested, particularly
+in the tombs of the old Crusaders with their
+crossed legs. We lunched with quite a party of benchers
+and their wives in the "parlement" room, a charming
+room looking out on the river and across a garden filled
+with roses, streams of sunlight pouring in at all the windows.
+They told us the War of the Roses, white and
+red, was planned in those gardens, and asked us if we
+remembered the old lines:</p>
+
+<ol>
+<li>"If this red rose offend thy sight,</li>
+  <li class="indent2">It in thy bosom wear;</li>
+<li>'Twill blush to find itself less white</li>
+  <li class="indent2">And turn Lancastrian there.:</li>
+</ol>
+
+<p>Yesterday we had a handsome "Diner d'Adieu" at the
+Turkish Embassy, principally colleagues. Lincoln was
+there&mdash;he too is going, his wife left yesterday. They
+have raised the United States Legation here to an Embassy,
+and I hope they will raise the salaries. No one
+is more asked out or has a better position here than the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_381" title="pg 381"> </a>
+United States Minister. I always remember the remark
+of one of our colleagues, Baron Solvyns, who had been
+long in London and knew it well. We were talking one
+day about the Corps Diplomatique, small Powers, Embassies,
+etc., and were discussing who was the most important
+Ambassador in London. Solvyns said, "There
+is no doubt about it, the American <em>Minister</em> is the first
+Ambassador in London."</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">French Embassy</span>,<br >
+April 12, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>My last letter from Albert Gate, Dear. Yesterday all
+our small things, silver, house linen, etc., departed. The
+packing seemed well done. We put everything that was
+to go in the ballroom (little Dresden figures, glasses, silver
+ornaments), nothing packed, all spread out, on tables.
+A man came and made an inventory, packs everything
+in a great van that comes to the door and arrives at our
+door in the Rue Dumont d'Urville, where equally everything
+is taken out and unpacked. He says nothing will
+be broken. It is certainly a very easy way of moving,
+and I shall be anxious to see how they arrive. The
+Florians had their furniture taken over like that, and I
+think one table was a little d&eacute;mantibul&eacute;e. We leave to-morrow;
+we being Henrietta and I. W. stays some little
+time still. I take over all the French servants, both
+coachmen, and my victoria and horses, as I must settle
+myself for the spring in the Paris house. W. sends over
+one of the secretaries, M. Lecomte, with us, and the colleagues
+are all coming to the station to say good-bye.
+The rooms look melancholy to-night, so many things
+gone; piano of course and all books and small tables,
+screens, etc.&mdash;all the gros mobilier belongs to the Embassy.
+We sat some time talking, just we three: W.,
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_382" title="pg 382"> </a>
+Henrietta, and I, after dinner. W. has just been named
+one of the Directeurs du Canal de Suez. I think he will
+find plenty of occupation when he gets back.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Paris, 31, Rue Dumont d'Urville,</span><br >
+April 16, 1893.</p>
+
+<p>Here I am, Dear, back in my little salon, writing at
+my table in the corner by the window, and rather distracted
+by the quantities of carriages passing. There
+is so much more movement in the street than when we
+left ten years ago, and I have got accustomed to such a
+quiet bedroom and salon. All our living rooms (except
+the dining-room) at Albert Gate gave on the Park, so
+we never heard the rattle and noise of carriages over
+pavements, and as no cabs nor camions are allowed in
+the Park the passing never disturbed us. We came over
+very comfortably on Thursday. All our colleagues were
+at the station to see us off, and I think they are sorry
+to say good-bye. We found our voiture-salon filled with
+flowers. Sir George Arthur and S. came over with us.
+It was very cold and very rough. All the men disappeared
+at once, but Henrietta and I remained on deck
+and were quite happy, well wrapped up with rugs, and
+tarpaulins stretched in front of us to keep out the wet.
+Lecomte had arranged our lunch in the private room of
+the buffet at Calais (where W. and I always breakfasted
+when we came over) and it was comfortable to see a
+bright fire. I am ashamed to say that the ladies of the
+party eat a very good breakfast. The men looked rather
+white, and certainly were not good "fourchettes" at
+that meal. At Dover we had found Lord William Seymour
+in uniform, with his aide-de-camp, wife and daughter
+waiting for us. He took me on the boat, and to the
+cabin, where there were more flowers, and stayed until
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_383" title="pg 383"> </a>
+the last moment, giving the captain all manner of instructions
+for my comfort, and particularly to see that my
+cabin was warm, with plenty of rugs, etc. I never went
+near it. I think Adela&iuml;de and Bonny had a very comfortable
+time there. Francis met us at the Gare du Nord,
+much pleased to have us back. We went to Henrietta's
+to dine. I was glad to come home directly after dinner
+and go to bed. Well, Dear, there is one chapter of my
+life closed&mdash;I wonder what the future reserves for us.
+I shall be uncomfortable for a few days until my van
+arrives. It left the same day we did, and the man said
+it would take a week to bring the things over, but I shall
+not expect them for ten days. I found quantities of cards
+and notes here, and Louise and Henrietta of course will
+give me dinner or anything else I want until I can get
+quite settled. Hubert got over only to-day. The sea
+was so rough he wouldn't cross on Thursday; he waited
+a day at Folkestone, and another at Boulogne, to rest the
+horses which had been knocked about. W. writes that
+the Embassy seems absolutely empty. Still he dines out
+every night (at the club when he hasn't an invitation)
+and will come over as soon as he can. The house looks
+so small after the big rooms at Albert Gate, and the
+stable and little cour minute. It sounded so familiar to
+hear the carriage coming in under the vo&ucirc;te, and also
+the street cries. I daresay in a few days I shall take
+up my ordinary Paris life, and London will seem a
+dream&mdash;like Moscow.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_384" title="pg 384"> </a></p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To G. K. S.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Bayreuth</span>,<br >
+Saturday, July 31, 1897.<sup><a href="#fn12" id="r12">[12]</a></sup></p>
+
+<p>We arrived Thursday evening from Nuremberg in a
+pouring rain, which continued all day Friday, and detestable
+it was&mdash;streets crowded, everybody's umbrella running
+into one and catching in your veil (really twice in
+mine), mud everywhere, carriages scarce and dear. Our
+rooms are comfortable, Mary de Bunsen got them for
+us, a good-sized salon (with a piano), three bedrooms,
+and two maids' rooms. We have our early breakfast
+and supper, but dine out. Our experience at the Sonne
+was not very agreeable&mdash;a long, hot dining-room, quantities
+of hungry people and no servants to speak of. I
+was rather interested in my neighbour, a long, thin
+American, a Western man from Iowa I think, a school-master.
+He told me he had been saving for years to get
+money enough "to come across" (as he said) and hear
+"Parsifal." He had taught himself German in the evenings
+when his class was finished. The man was in such
+a quiver of delighted anticipation that it was a pleasure
+to see him. I told him I was sure he would not be disappointed,
+as Van Dyck was to sing "Parsifal." There
+were quite a number of priests at table, and one heard a
+little French, but the talk was principally German and
+English. We got up to the theatre easily enough, as
+carriages were going backward and forward all the time.
+The opera, "Parsifal," was beautifully given&mdash;Van Dyck
+as good as ever. I always think he stands so wonderfully
+in that scene where he has his back to the public
+and is absorbed by all he sees. He told me it was one
+of his most difficult parts. We had great difficulty in
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_385" title="pg 385"> </a>
+getting our coffee between the acts, and greater still in
+finding our carriage at the end. The crowd, and scramble,
+and mud were something awful.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Friday, August 6th.</p>
+
+<p>We are leaving this afternoon, having had an enchanting
+week. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, the
+whole Ring beautifully given. All the music is racing
+through my brain, from the lovely wave chorus of the
+swimming Rhine maidens to the magnificent end of the
+"G&ouml;tterd&auml;mmerung" with all the different motifs worked
+in. They played the funeral march of "Siegfried" splendidly.
+It is a curious life one leads here. In the morning
+everybody walks about the town&mdash;the streets are narrow
+and it is amusing to be hailed from windows over
+small shops, grocers', bakers', watchmakers', by friends
+who are lodging there. About 3 a sort of restless excitement
+is in the air and one sees a long procession mounting
+the hill to the Opera House, everyone absorbed by
+the one idea. There are quantities of people we know.
+I didn't go and see Mdme. Wagner this time, as Henrietta
+and Pauline don't know her. Her evenings, the off
+night, are very interesting. One sees all the distinguished
+people of any kind at her house, all the artists,
+critics, etc. Of course no one ventures to criticise the
+<em>music</em>&mdash;merely the execution.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Meingeningen, Biebrich,</span><br >
+Sunday, August 15, 1897.</p>
+
+<p>I have been here two or three days and am glad to
+have some quiet hours in the garden after the fatigue
+and excitement of Bayreuth. Four Wagner operas in
+succession is a strain on one's brain (not that I wouldn't
+do it straight over again this week if I could, but one
+wants the rest between). The crowd at Bayreuth the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_386" title="pg 386"> </a>
+day we started was something wonderful, as of course
+everyone leaves after their s&eacute;rie&mdash;there is nothing to do
+or see in the town. At Nuremberg, too, the scramble
+to get something to eat was funny, as there were two
+courants, all of us leaving Bayreuth, and just as many
+more arriving to take our places. There is always a
+crowd at the Nuremberg station, though they have multiplied
+little buffets outside the regular salles d'attente
+with coffee, beer, sausages, etc. We were late all along
+the line, and again there was such a crowd at the big
+Frankfort station that I could not get my trunks in time
+to take the first train for Mosbach&mdash;however, I arrived
+finally and was pleased to see Heinrich's broad, good-humoured
+face, and we drove at once to the house, where
+Mary was waiting for me with supper. We talked a
+little, but even that took us on to 2 o'clock, as it was
+after midnight when I arrived.</p>
+
+<p>We have seen various people, and made expeditions
+to Wiesbaden. We wrote to the Empress Frederick's
+lady-in-waiting the other day (Countess Perponcher,
+whom Mary knows very well) to say that I was here
+near Cronberg, and would be so pleased if the Empress
+would receive me. The answer has just come, asking me
+to lunch at Cronberg on Wednesday. I am delighted to
+go&mdash;first to see the Empress, and then to see the house,
+which is filled with beautiful things. The Empress has
+travelled so much, and been so much in Italy, and has
+bought all sorts of treasures.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Tuesday, August 17, 1897.</p>
+
+<p>Last night we went to the opera at Wiesbaden. It was
+"Hansel and Gretel," beautifully given&mdash;the orchestra
+very good and the angel scene with all the angels coming
+down a sort of ladder and circling round the sleeping
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_387" title="pg 387"> </a>
+children quite exquisite. It was a funny contrast to the
+London and Paris Opera. Mary and I started off about
+5.30 in ordinary summer dress&mdash;foulard and voile. We
+went to the great confectioner at Wiesbaden for our tea
+and cakes, and a little before 7 walked across to the
+Opera. There we took off our hats and jackets, hung
+them up on a little peg, found our seats without any
+trouble, and had a very pleasant evening. The entr'actes
+are much shorter than in France, so that we were out a
+little before 10. The drive home was lovely on a bright
+starlight summer night; about three-quarters of an
+hour. It was such an easy, independent way of going,
+without the complications of a man to go with us, servant
+to take our cloaks, etc. I often think I should like
+to live a little in Germany, there is so much that I like in
+the country, and life seems so easy, though I believe German
+women wouldn't say so. They all seemed weighed
+down with cares, and apparently all with very small incomes.
+I wonder if you have read Hauptmann's "Versunkene
+Glocke"; I am fascinated by it. It was a little
+difficult reading at first on account of the sort of patois,
+but it is a wonderful book, so weird and full of sentiment.
+I will finish my letter after our day at Cronberg.</p>
+
+<p class="author">Thursday, August 19, 1897.</p>
+
+<p>We had a charming day; I am so glad we went. We
+started a little after ten for Frankfort, where we had a
+wait of 20 minutes. I wore my black voile and a little
+black and jet toque in which I put a white aigrette, and
+white gloves, so as not to be too black. The trajet is
+short from Frankfort to Cronberg, about an hour. We
+found two carriages (rather pretty victorias in wood
+natural colour and cushions the same colour&mdash;they looked
+very chic and country) and tall powdered footmen in the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_388" title="pg 388"> </a>
+black and silver Imperial livery. There were two or
+three people in the second carriage whom I didn't recognise
+at first, but made out when we arrived. Val Prinsep,
+the artist, and his wife, a very pretty woman, and a German
+lady, also an artist I think. The Castle is not far
+from the station, and Cronberg (the town) is rather picturesque.
+The house is large&mdash;nothing particular in the
+way of architecture, but stands well in a fair-sized park.
+We were received in a fine hall, with pictures, carvings,
+and plenty of old furniture. Countess Perponcher and
+Baron Reischach received us. Count Seckendorff was
+not there, which I regretted, as I like him very much
+and should have been glad to see him again. Countess
+Perponcher took us to a small room on the ground floor
+where we left our parasols, wraps, etc., and then we went
+through one or two handsome rooms into a large salon
+where the company was already assembled. Lady Layard
+and her niece were staying in the house, also Prince
+Albert Solms (our old friend) with his wife. He is
+very ill, poor fellow, and can hardly get about. Some
+English friends arrived from Hombourg&mdash;Lady Cork,
+Lord Algy Lennox. About 1.30 the Empress came&mdash;always
+the same charming manner, and always her sad
+eyes. I thought she looked thinner and paler perhaps,
+but not ill. We went immediately to luncheon&mdash;the Empress
+first, alone, all of us following. Baron Reischach
+sat opposite to her, between me and Lady Cork. The
+talk was easy, the Empress talking a great deal. Val
+Prinsep too did his share, and Lady Cork is always
+clever and original. After luncheon we went back
+to the big drawing-room and looked at some of the
+beautiful things. Angeli's last portrait of the Empress
+had just come and had been placed (temporarily only)
+in a corner where the light was not very good. It
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_389" title="pg 389"> </a>
+is a fine picture&mdash;the Empress all in black with her
+splendid pearl necklace, seated on a sort of carved
+throne, or high-backed chair&mdash;all the shading dark,
+the only bit of colour the yellow ribbon of the Black
+Eagle. It is a striking picture and very like her,
+but so inexpressibly sad. She called each one of us in
+turn to come and sit by her. She spoke very warmly
+of W. to me, and asked me if I didn't regret my London
+life, and if I did not find it very difficult to settle
+down in France after having lived ten years in London,
+"the great centre of the world." It is curious how universal
+that feeling is with English people (and "au
+fond," notwithstanding all the years she has lived in
+Germany, the Empress is absolutely English still in her
+heart). They think that life in England&mdash;London&mdash;spoils
+one for everything else. I told her I didn't think
+I was to be pitied for living in Paris&mdash;after all, my boy
+was a Frenchman and all his interests were in France.
+She asked about Francis, how old he was, and couldn't
+believe that I was going back to f&ecirc;ter his 21 years, and
+thought it was fortunate for him that his early education
+had been in England.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus442.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the Black Eagle" id="illus442" title="The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the Black Eagle"> </a>
+<p class="center small">The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the
+Black Eagle<br >
+The last portrait of the Empress by the artist Angeli</p></div>
+
+<p>We talked a little about French literature&mdash;I think
+she reads everything&mdash;and she asked about Bayreuth,
+were there many French people there. I told her the
+Director of the Grand Op&eacute;ra, among others, who wants
+to have the "Meistersinger" in France, but Mdme. Wagner
+is rather unwilling&mdash;the choruses, she thinks, are too
+difficult either to translate or to sing with the true spirit
+in any other language. The Empress said, "She is quite
+right; it is one of the most difficult of Wagner's operas,
+and essentially German in plot and structure. It scarcely
+bears translation in English and in French would be impossible;
+neither is the music, in my mind, at all suited
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_390" title="pg 390"> </a>
+to the French character. The mythical legend of the
+Cycle would appeal more to the French, I think, than the
+ordinary German life." I daresay she is right. When
+she cong&eacute;died me I talked some little time to Prince
+Solms, Reischach, and others. Then it was getting time
+for us to go, as we had to take the 4.30 train back to
+Frankfort. I was standing by the window, from which
+there is a fine open view over plain and woods, when the
+Empress came up to say good-bye. She supposed I was
+going back to France, where I would find my boy. "You
+are very fortunate to have him still with you; it gives
+such an interest to your life." She kissed me, and then
+said sadly, "<em>My</em> task is done&mdash;I am quite alone." I
+watched her go out of the room, across the hall, and up
+the great staircase, with her long black dress trailing behind,
+alone&mdash;as she said. It must be an awful solitude
+for her&mdash;living there in her beautiful house, filled with
+art treasures of all kinds, and with friends near all summer
+at Hombourg, Wiesbaden, etc., who are only too
+happy to go to her&mdash;but her real life is over, and she is
+as far away from Germany and the throbbing pulse of
+the nation as if she were a cloistered nun.</p>
+
+<p>The Val Prinseps came away with us, and we made a
+bout de chemin together until they branched off to Hombourg.
+He has quite the same idea of the Empress;
+says "elle se ronge," that she had always had such aspirations
+and wanted to do so much for the intellectual life
+of Germany. Mary and I got to Frankfort in good time,
+and home for dinner. We were glad to prowl about in
+the garden after dinner, when it was deliciously cool and
+the air heavy almost with the scent of roses, of which she
+has quantities. We saw the Rhine and the lights of Mayence
+in the distance. I suppose this place too I shall
+never see again, as I think Mary has made up her mind
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_391" title="pg 391"> </a>
+to sell Meingeningen. I think she will settle in Ireland
+if she can get the old Townshend place where she was
+one summer. It is ideal, close on the sea, with a splendid
+park rising up behind the Castle, but will be a great
+change for her.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">South Pavilion, West Cowes</span>,<br >
+August 9, 1900.</p>
+
+<p>We are becoming accustomed, Dear, to the wind and
+rain and a general damp feeling. I don't think I have
+been really dry since we left Paris. I live in my serge
+dress and a waterproof. I should have been quite comfortable
+if I could have changed with the other one, but
+Bessie Talleyrand is disporting herself in it. When we
+arrived we found everyone in mourning for the Duke of
+Edinburgh, the first days not so marked, but since the
+Osborne has arrived with the Prince and Princess on
+board one sees nothing but black, and Bessie was much
+disgusted, having only blue. The steam launches and
+boats go all day between the yachts and the shore.
+Everyone, men and women, wears those remarkable yellow
+mackintoshes; you can't tell them apart, and the
+boats look as if they were loaded with great yellow
+"ballots." The two American yachts, Nahma, Mrs. Goelet,
+and Itwana, Mr. Armour, are splendid, enormous
+steamers and beautifully kept. Yesterday after lunch
+Bessie and I started in the wind and rain to drive over to
+Osborne and write ourselves down for the Queen. I am
+afraid I sha'n't see her, which will be a great disappointment
+to me; but the ladies here tell me she is much affected
+by the Duke of Edinburgh's death, and after all,
+the Prince has only just got back from his funeral. The
+drive through Cowes is not very interesting, through
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_392" title="pg 392"> </a>
+dirty, smelly little streets; but once over the ferry
+(which one crosses in a boat large enough to take the
+Queen's carriage with four horses) it is pretty enough,
+up a long hill with fine trees and a few places. We didn't
+see the Castle, as of course we were stopped at the gates,
+which were open, with a policeman standing just inside.
+The park looked fine, grass and flower beds beautifully
+kept. We wrote ourselves down and I left a card for the
+Duchess of Roxburghe, who is in waiting. We went
+for tea to the Club garden, and there I saw the Duchess
+of Roxburghe, who told me the Queen would certainly
+see me. We dined quietly at home, rather a fancy meal,
+but we prefer that to going out. There is a nice little
+dining-room, and Joseph waits. How he gets on down-stairs
+with the three maiden ladies who run the establishment
+I don't know. He doesn't speak or understand
+one word of English and has never been out of France
+before. He went nearly mad over that remarkable railway
+journey of ours across country from Eastbourne to
+Cowes, where we changed about 10 times (all the luggage
+naturally being transferred each time), lost all our
+connections everywhere and arrived at Cowes at 10.30
+at night, having left Eastbourne at 2. He is much impressed
+with the uncleanliness of the house, and said to
+me just now, "Si Madame voyait les torchons <em>sales</em> dont
+on se sert pour essuyer les assiettes <em>propres</em>, Madame ne
+mangerait jamais &agrave; la maison."</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">East Cowes</span>,<br >
+Sunday, August 12, 1900.</p>
+
+<p>I had two notes this morning, one from Miss Knollys
+saying the Princess would receive me, and one from
+Madame d'Arcos saying the Empress Eug&eacute;nie would
+like us to come to tea with her on the Thistle at 5. I
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_393" title="pg 393"> </a>
+had rather hesitated about writing myself down for the
+Empress. I had never seen her, and W. was in such
+violent opposition always to the Empire that I never saw
+any of the Imperial family; but Madame d'Arcos said
+Bessie and I were the only Frenchwomen at Cowes; we
+had been everywhere&mdash;on the Osborne, to the Queen,
+etc., and it was rude not to do the same thing for the
+Empress&mdash;au fond, I was rather glad to have the opportunity,
+as I had never seen her. We went to the club
+garden after church, as I wanted to find a friend who
+would lend me a steam launch to go out to the Osborne.
+Lord Llangattock offered his, and also said he
+would take us to the Thistle for tea, as they were going
+on board to say good-bye to the Empress (they leave to-night).
+I wore my black and white foulard and a big
+black hat with feathers (never a sailor hat), which could
+go, as the day was fine and the sea smooth. The Princess
+was not there when I arrived; she had gone to the
+service on the Victoria and Albert. Miss Knollys appeared
+and we sat some time talking on deck. I was
+leaning over the railing when the Royal launch arrived,
+and I was astounded, after all these years (7), at the
+appearance of the Princess. Just the same slight, youthful
+figure and light step. The Duke of York came forward
+first and talked a little. He was dressed in undress
+admiral's uniform and looked very well. Then the Princess
+came, quite unchanged. She was simply dressed, in
+mourning, and looked quite as she did the last time I
+saw her, when she was also in mourning (for Prince
+Eddie). She kissed me, seemed pleased to see me, and
+we sat on two straw chairs, under the awning on the
+deck, talking about all sorts of things. She said the
+Duke of Edinburgh's death was a great grief to them.
+They were very fond of him, and it was sudden; and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_394" title="pg 394"> </a>
+spoke most sadly about the Empress Frederick, who
+seems to be dying, and of a cancer. It seems that she
+knows quite well what is the matter with her and what
+is before her, as she nursed her husband through his long
+malady. Isn't it awful? She spoke about Francis, recalling
+his first afternoon at Marlborough House, when
+he was quite small and wept bitterly when the negro
+minstrels appeared. I told her he was working for
+diplomacy, and she said she would be much pleased to
+see him when he came to London as attach&eacute;.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:100%"><a href="#illustrations"><img src="images/illus448.jpg" width="100%" height="100%" alt="Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of Wight." id="illus448" title="The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the Black Eagle"></a>
+
+<p class="center small">Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of Wight.<br>
+From a photograph by Broderick.</p></div>
+
+<p>The Prince came and talked a little while, and also
+recalled the last time we met last summer on the quai at
+Nuremberg, both coming from Marienbad, and swallowing
+hastily a cup of very hot coffee. I thought he
+looked grave and preoccupied. He talked a little about
+Cowes. He said he never remembered such a bad week&mdash;awful
+weather and few yachts. He was very complimentary
+about the two big American yachts, Itwana
+and Nahma; said he had never seen the Nahma, which
+he regretted, but he didn't know Mrs. Goelet&mdash;did I?
+"Oh yes, very well, ever since she was a child, and her
+mother and father before." I was sure she would be very
+pleased to receive them. The Prince said they were in
+such deep mourning that they had been on no yacht, and
+he hoped there would be no party. I said Mrs. Goelet
+herself was in deep mourning. After some consultation
+with the Princess they said they would like to go on
+board to-morrow morning at 12 o'clock (they leave early
+Tuesday morning), and I promised to speak to Mrs.
+Goelet.</p>
+
+<p>He was amused when I said I liked the "Japs" so
+much, as he rather invented them. They came to sing to
+him one summer when he was ill at Cowes and on his
+yacht all the time. There are four people, three women
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_395" title="pg 395"> </a>
+and a man (a Frenchman), all masked, the women in
+pretty Japanese dresses and the man in ordinary clothes.
+One woman accompanies at the piano by heart, and extremely
+well; the other two and the man sing and dance&mdash;dancing
+very moderate&mdash;a sort of "walk around," but
+the singing very good; all English except one or two
+little French songs the man sings alone. One of their
+favourite ditties, "Mary housemaid," always brings
+down the house. It is just the sort of thing that would
+have amused us in our young days when we used to play
+and sing by heart and invent steps. The women are
+very graceful&mdash;I don't know if they are pretty, as one
+never sees their faces&mdash;and the man extraordinary, very
+amusing and never vulgar.</p>
+
+<p>I think I must have been a long time on the yacht, and
+nothing could be more gracious and sympathetic than the
+Princess. She told me the Queen would certainly receive
+me. I hadn't more than time to get back where
+Bessie and Borghese were very hungry waiting for
+luncheon, and to start again at 4; this time with Bessie
+and the Llangattocks for the Thistle. We were received
+by Madame d'Arcos, Mlle. Darauvilliers, and M.
+Rambaut. They told us the Empress had a cold and was
+very hoarse; had been forbidden by the doctor to come
+on deck, and also to talk, but that she would receive us
+in the cabin. We went down almost immediately, preceded
+by Madame d'Arcos, who said we must not stay
+long, as the Empress ought not to talk. She was standing
+in her cabin, still a handsome, stately figure, with
+beautiful brow and eyes, and charming manner, more
+animated than I had imagined. She was very well
+dressed in black. She made us sit down and talked herself
+a great deal, always about Paris, the Bassanos
+(speaking most warmly of the Duke), d'Albuf&eacute;ras, and
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_396" title="pg 396"> </a>
+various mutual friends. She knew Francis was to work
+for diplomacy, and said she could wish him nothing better
+than to walk in his father's footsteps. We were afraid
+we were tiring her, as she talked all the time. Twice the
+"dame d'honneur" appeared, but she waved her away.
+When she finally dismissed us she said "Je ne dirai pas
+adieu, mais au revoir"&mdash;regretted very much that she
+could not come on deck and have tea with us, but that we
+must certainly stay. We had a pleasant half hour talking
+with the others, and then there came a message from
+her begging that we would take her launch and cruise
+about in the harbour. I accepted gladly, as I wanted to
+communicate with the Nahma and didn't exactly know
+how to manage. The French ladies too wished to see the
+American yacht, so off we started in the Empress's launch.
+It seemed funny after all these years to be suddenly
+thrown with the Empress and her suite and careering
+about in her launch. Mrs. Goelet was not on board, but
+the steward took the visitors all over the yacht, and I discovered
+Mrs. Warren and told her that the Prince and
+Princess would like to go on board to-morrow&mdash;she said
+she was quite sure her daughter would be very happy
+to see them. I found a note from the Duchess of Roxburghe
+when I got home, saying that the Queen would
+receive me to-morrow at 4.30 at Osborne, so my day
+will be full, as I told Mrs. Goelet I would come to the
+Nahma to present her to the Prince and Princess.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>To H. L. K.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">East Pavilion, Cowes, Isle of Wight</span>,<br >
+Monday, August 13, 1900.</p>
+
+<p>Well, Dear, I am just back from Osborne. I have the
+salon all to myself, Bessie and Borghese are out, and I
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_397" title="pg 397"> </a>
+will write you all about my audience while it is fresh in
+my memory, but I must begin at the beginning and tell
+you about the Royal visit to the Nahma, which went off
+very well. A little before twelve Mr. Warren, Mrs. Goelet's
+brother, came for us and we went off at once to the
+yacht. The Royal party arrived very punctually, Prince
+and Princess, Duke and Duchess of York, Princess Victoria,
+and various gentlemen. They were all delighted
+with the yacht, particularly the Duke of York, who saw
+everything. He called an officer of the Osborne to see
+some arrangement of signals which it seems is wonderful,
+and said they had nothing so perfect in the Royal
+Yacht. Mrs. Goelet did the honours very well and simply,
+receiving the Princes at the gangway, with her son
+and daughter on each side of her, a pretty, graceful figure
+in her plain black dress. I remained on board to lunch
+after the Princes departed, and they sent me ashore at
+2.30 as I had just time to dress and go to Osborne.</p>
+
+<p>I started again a little before 4, wearing my black
+taffetas trimmed with lace and a tulle bonnet and white
+aigrette (quite costume de ville&mdash;I could not go to the
+Queen in a serge skirt and big hat). I took Joseph with
+me in plain black livery. We arrived quite in time, as
+there was no delay at the ferry this time, and the large
+gates were open, the man making a sign to us to drive
+in. There were two or three policemen standing near the
+gate and in the park. The park is pretty&mdash;not very large
+but beautifully green, and as we got near the house,
+quantities of flowers&mdash;a mass of colour. The house is
+not handsome&mdash;rather imposing, a large grey stone
+house with two wings, and flower-beds close up to the
+windows. Three or four footmen in plain black livery
+were waiting in the hall, and they took me at once upstairs
+to the ladies' drawing-room&mdash;a nice room at the
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_398" title="pg 398"> </a>
+side of the house not looking out to sea. The Duchess
+of Roxburghe was waiting for me, and we talked about
+fifteen minutes. Then came a Highland servant saying,
+"Her Majesty was ready to receive <em>Lady</em> Waddington."
+The Duchess and I went downstairs, walked through
+various galleries, and stopped at a door where there was
+no servant. The Duchess knocked, the Queen's voice
+said, "Come in," and I found myself in a beautiful large
+salon, all the windows opening on the sea. The Queen,
+dressed as usual in black, was seated in the middle of the
+room facing the door. I had barely time to make one
+curtsey&mdash;she put out her hand and made me sit down
+next to her. She spoke to me first in French (just as
+she always did when I was at the Embassy&mdash;to mark, I
+suppose, that I was the French Ambassadress), "Je suis
+tr&egrave;s heureuse de vous revoir&mdash;I think we can speak English&mdash;how
+much has happened since we met"; and then
+we talked about all sorts of things. I thought she looked
+extremely well&mdash;of course I couldn't tell if her sight was
+gone, as she knew I was coming and I sat close to her.
+Her eyes were blue and clear, and her memory and conversation
+quite the same. She thanked me for my letter;
+said the Duke of Edinburgh's death was a great blow to
+her. It was so sudden, she had not thought him ill. She
+had lost three children all very dear to her, and it was
+hard at her age to see her children go before her. She
+spoke at once (so moderately) of the caricatures and
+various little incidents that had occurred in France. I
+said I was very glad to have an opportunity of telling
+her that everybody in France (except for a few hot-headed
+radicals and anti-English) was most indignant
+at such gratuitous insults not only to the Queen but to
+a woman. She said she quite understood that&mdash;that
+wherever she had been in France everybody had done
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_399" title="pg 399"> </a>
+what they could to make her stay happy and comfortable;
+that she never could forget it, and hoped the French
+nation felt that&mdash;also that she would never dream of
+holding the country responsible for the radical press, but
+"my children and my people feel it very deeply." We
+talked about the King of Italy's murder (she was much
+pleased with the expression in one of the Italian papers
+"&egrave; morto in piedi") and she expressed great sympathy
+for Queen Margherita&mdash;"She is fond of Italy and is always
+thinking and planning what she can do for the
+people." We also talked about the Shah and the attentat
+in Paris. I said that left me rather indifferent, but she
+answered instantly, "You are quite wrong&mdash;it is the
+principle, not the person, that is attacked in those cases."
+I then remarked that it was a great pity, I thought, that
+one of those gentlemen (anarchists, not sovereigns)
+shouldn't be lynched; that I believed the one thing they
+were afraid of was the justice of the people. She said,
+"That is not a very Christian sentiment"; but I think
+she didn't altogether disagree with me. She asked me
+about Francis&mdash;was he working for diplomacy; and then,
+I don't know exactly how, we began talking about mixed
+marriages. She said she didn't think religion ought to
+be an invincible obstacle. I said I thought with her, but
+that French Protestants were very strict. I told her it
+had been said that my husband, who was certainly a very
+large-minded man in most things, was really narrow
+about Catholics. She said, with such a charming smile,
+"Oh, I can't think M. Waddington was ever narrow
+about anything, I always thought him one of the most
+large-minded, just men I ever knew." I must say I was
+pleased, and W. always felt that for some reason or
+another he was sympathetic to her. We talked a little
+about the Empress Frederick; she said the last news was
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_400" title="pg 400"> </a>
+better, but she evidently didn't want to pursue the subject.
+We talked on some little time, and when she finally
+dismissed me, she said, "I hope you will come back to
+England, and whenever you do I shall be very glad to see
+you." She shook hands&mdash;I backed myself to the door,
+opened it, and there found the Highland servant, who
+took me back to the drawing-room where the Duchess
+of Roxburghe was waiting. She suggested that we
+should go for a turn in the garden, and when she went
+to get her hat I looked about the room, which is quite
+plainly furnished&mdash;a grand piano, comfortable furniture,
+not pretty, and no particular style.</p>
+
+<p>We walked about the gardens a little, which are pretty,
+such quantities of flowers, and had tea under the trees.
+Two of the ladies came out&mdash;Mrs. Grant and Miss
+Harbord. They were very anxious to know if I found
+the Queen changed after seven years, but I really can't
+say I did. My impression is that they find her older.
+They say she felt the Duke of Edinburgh's death very
+much, and that she is very worried about the Empress
+Frederick, though she doesn't talk much about her. It
+was lovely sitting under the trees, so cool and quiet after
+the noise and glare of Cowes. All the people bowed as
+we drove home through Cowes. I think they took Joseph
+in his black livery for one of the Queen's servants.</p>
+
+<p>I must tell you that Joseph and &Eacute;lise are also moving
+in high society. Joseph came with a most smiling face
+to me Saturday night to say that one of his friends
+was chef on the Empress's yacht (the Thistle) and had
+invited them to breakfast on Sunday on the yacht. I
+said they could go, and when Bessie and I were going to
+church we saw them start&mdash;he in the regulation Cowes
+blue serge costume (<em>not</em> the short, very short, Eton jacket
+which is the dress attire of the Club men) and yellow
+<a class="pagenum break" id="page_401" title="pg 401"> </a>
+shoes, and she in my old purple foulard, with a very nice
+little toque. A very smart little boat was waiting for
+them.</p>
+
+<p>Now, my Dear, I must stop, as I am exhausted, and a
+perfect Mrs. Jellyby, papers flying all over the place, as
+I am writing at the open window, and ink all over me,
+fingers, hair, etc. I can't say, as Madame de S&eacute;vign&eacute;
+did, "ma plume vole," for mine stops and scratches, and
+makes holes in the paper, and does everything it can to
+make my writing difficult. I wonder why I hate it so&mdash;I
+do&mdash;as soon as I sit down to my writing-table I want
+to go out or play on the piano, or even crochet little petticoats&mdash;anything
+rather than write. I suppose I shall never see the Queen again&mdash;at
+her age it isn't very likely, especially if I wait another seven years without coming
+over. I am glad she received me, it was a great pleasure.</p>
+
+
+<h3><em>Note.</em></h3>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">Paris, 29, Rue Auguste Vacquerie</span>,<br >
+Dimanche, 29 Decembre, 1901.</p>
+
+<p>Of course I never saw the Queen again. She began
+to fail that same autumn (1900) after her return home
+from Balmoral, and died at Osborne the 22d of January,
+1901&mdash;a beautiful death, painless, sleeping away and
+all her children and grandchildren with her. It isn't only
+the Queen who has disappeared&mdash;it is the century. England
+will enter on a new phase&mdash;but it must be different
+from the chapter that has just closed.</p>
+
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_402" title="pg 402"> </a></p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p><a class="pagenum break" id="page_403" title="pg 403"> </a></p>
+
+
+<h2>INDEX</h2>
+
+<ul class="none">
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>A</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>d'A&mdash;&mdash;, Countess, <a href="#page_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>A&mdash;&mdash;, Lady, <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>A&mdash;&mdash;, Lord, experience on the House of Lords boat at the Naval Review, <a href="#page_264">264</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a></li>
+
+<li>A&mdash;&mdash;, Mdme., <a href="#page_87">87</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a></li>
+
+<li>Aberdeen, Lady, <a href="#page_313">313</a></li>
+
+<li>Aberdeen, Lord, <a href="#page_216">216</a></li>
+
+<li>Abinger, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_172">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Adams, <a href="#page_234">234</a></li>
+
+<li>Adela&iuml;de, Mlle., <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_10">10</a> <em>et passim</em></li>
+
+<li>d'Agoult, <a href="#page_343">343</a></li>
+
+<li>Albanesi, <a href="#page_234">234</a></li>
+
+<li>Albani, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Albany, Duke and Duchess of, <a href="#page_179">179;</a>
+<ul class="none">
+  <li>death of the Duke, <a href="#page_206">206</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Albert, Arch Duke and Arch Duchess, of Austria, <a href="#page_56">56;</a>
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>incident in Paris, <a href="#page_57">57</a></li>
+  </ul>
+	</li>
+<li>Albert, Prince, <a href="#page_177">177</a>; tomb, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Albert Solms, Prince, <a href="#page_388">388</a></li>
+
+<li>Albert Victor, Prince, Duke of Clarence, <a href="#page_184">184</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>illness, <a href="#page_333">333</a>;</li>
+  <li>engagement to Princess May, <a href="#page_333">333</a>;</li>
+  <li>death, <a href="#page_334">334</a>;</li>
+  <li>funeral, <a href="#page_336">336</a>;</li>
+  <li>sarcophagus, <a href="#page_369">369</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>d'Albuf&egrave;ras, <a href="#page_395">395</a></li>
+
+<li>Alexander III., Emperor of Russia, <a href="#page_4">4</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>the procession to the Kremlin, <a href="#page_44">44-46</a>;</li>
+  <li>danger from the Nihilists, <a href="#page_52">52</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>;</li>
+  <li>coronation of, <a href="#page_65">65-67</a>;</li>
+  <li>the breakfast following the Coronation, <a href="#page_68">68-70</a>;</li>
+  <li>the reception after the Coronation, <a href="#page_71">71-73</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Court Ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the great ball at the Palace, <a href="#page_78">78</a>;</li>
+  <li>the F&ecirc;te Populaire, <a href="#page_82">82</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Palace ball, <a href="#page_86">86-90</a>;</li>
+  <li>the gala dinner, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a>;</li>
+  <li>the revue, <a href="#page_102">102-104</a>;</li>
+  <li>his home at Peterhof, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Alexander, Prince, of Battenberg, <a href="#page_236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>Alexis, Grand Duke, at the coronation of his brother, Emperor Alexander III., <a href="#page_66">66</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at the Palace ball, <a href="#page_86">86</a></li>
+  </ul>
+	</li>
+
+<li>Alice, Princess, of Hesse, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Am&eacute;d&eacute;e, King, <a href="#page_92">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Am&eacute;lie, Princess, of Schleswig-Holstein, <a href="#page_326">326</a></li>
+
+<li>Ampthill, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Anne, &mdash;&mdash;, <a href="#page_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li>Antrim, Lady, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a></li>
+
+<li>d'Aoste, Duc, <a href="#page_6">6</a>;
+	<ul class="none">
+	<li>described, <a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>, <a href="#page_361">361</a></li>
+	</ul>
+	</li>
+
+<li>Appert, General, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Appert, Madame, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>her daughters, <a href="#page_154">154</a></li>
+  </ul>
+	</li>
+
+<li>d'Arcos, Madame, <a href="#page_395">395</a></li>
+
+<li>Armour, Mr., <a href="#page_391">391</a></li>
+
+<li>Arran, Lady, <a href="#page_377">377</a></li>
+
+<li>Arthur, Sir George, <a href="#page_375">375</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a>, <a href="#page_382">382</a></li>
+
+<li>Ashburton, Lady, <a href="#page_349">349</a></li>
+
+<li>Ashburton, Lady Louisa, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Astor, Mrs. <a href="#page_357">357</a></li>
+
+<li>Augusta, Empress, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>d'Aumale, Duc, <a href="#page_217">217</a>, <a href="#page_303">303</a>, <a href="#page_304">304</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>B</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_404" title="pg 404"> </a></li>
+
+<li>Baden, Grand Duchess of, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Baldwin, Admiral, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>entertains the Waddingtons and others on his flagship, <a href="#page_120">120-123</a>;</li>
+  <li>impressions of the Coronation, <a href="#page_137">137</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Baldwin, Mrs., <a href="#page_151">151</a></li>
+
+<li>Barrington, Mr. Eric, <a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Bassanos, <a href="#page_395">395</a></li>
+
+<li>Bayard, Mr., <a href="#page_377">377</a></li>
+
+<li>Beatrice, Princess, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at the opening of Parliament, <a href="#page_237">237</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Windsor Castle, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Bedford, Duchess of, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_257">257</a>, <a href="#page_280">280</a></li>
+
+<li>Bedford, Duke of, <a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a></li>
+
+<li>Belgians, King of the, <a href="#page_249">249</a></li>
+
+<li>Belgians, Queen of the, <a href="#page_256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Benckendorff, Colonel, <a href="#page_34">34</a> <em>et passim</em></li>
+
+<li>B&eacute;rard, M., <a href="#page_24">24</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li>Beresford, Lord Charles, <a href="#page_296">296</a></li>
+
+<li>Bernadotte, <a href="#page_138">138</a></li>
+
+<li>Bernhardt, Mdme. Sarah, <a href="#page_135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>Bille, Elsa de, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>Bille, Mdme. de, <a href="#page_315">315</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a></li>
+
+<li>Bismarck, <a href="#page_15">15</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>talks with M. Waddington, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>;</li>
+  <li>friction with the Empress, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Bismarck, Herbert, <a href="#page_243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Bleichroeder, <a href="#page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Blennerhasset, Lady, <a href="#page_340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Blumenthal's, <a href="#page_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>B&ouml;hm, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Boleyn, Anne, <a href="#page_175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Bondy, M. de, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a></li>
+
+<li>Borghese, <a href="#page_395">395</a></li>
+
+<li>Borthwick, Lady, <a href="#page_251">251</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Boston, Lord, <a href="#page_218">218</a></li>
+
+<li>Boulanger, <a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_296">296</a></li>
+
+<li>Bowen, Judge, <a href="#page_367">367</a></li>
+
+<li>Braganza, Duchesse de, <a href="#page_256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Brandt, Mr., <a href="#page_163">163</a></li>
+
+<li>Brasseys, <a href="#page_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Brennen, Mme. and Mlle. de, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Bridge, Dr., <a href="#page_348">348</a></li>
+
+<li>Brown, Mrs., <a href="#page_169">169</a></li>
+
+<li>Brown, John, tablet in memory of, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Brownlows, <a href="#page_346">346</a></li>
+
+<li>Bryce, Mr., <a href="#page_307">307</a></li>
+
+<li>Btetju, Count, <a href="#page_244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>Buccleuch, Duchess of, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_257">257</a></li>
+
+<li>"Buffalo Bill," <a href="#page_243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Bulgaria, Prince of, <a href="#page_218">218</a></li>
+
+<li>B&uuml;low, <a href="#page_337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Bunsen, George de, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Bunsen, Mlle. Beatrice de, <a href="#page_285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Bunsen, Mary de, <a href="#page_386">386</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a></li>
+
+<li>Burns, Walter, <a href="#page_295">295</a></li>
+
+<li>Burtons, <a href="#page_354">354</a></li>
+
+<li>Bury, Mlle. de, "sur Racine," <a href="#page_212">212</a></li>
+
+<li>Bylandt, Comte de, at the Naval Review, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a></li>
+
+<li>Bylandt, Comtesse de, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_338">338</a></li>
+
+<li>Byng, Colonel, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_369">369</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>C</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>C&mdash;&mdash;, Lord, Indian Secretary, <a href="#page_252">252</a></li>
+
+<li>Calmon, Robert, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Cambridge, Duchess of, <a href="#page_180">180</a></li>
+
+<li>Cambridge, Duke of, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a></li>
+
+<li>Cameron, Sir Roderick, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>in Scotland, <a href="#page_287">287</a> <em>et seq.</em></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Campbell, Mr., <a href="#page_207">207</a></li>
+
+<li>Carlingford, Lord, <a href="#page_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Canterbury, Archbishop of, <a href="#page_355">355</a>, <a href="#page_356">356</a></li>
+
+<li>Carpe, <a href="#page_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Carrington, Lord, <a href="#page_346">346</a></li>
+
+<li>Catherine II., <a href="#page_90">90</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Cavendish, Lord Frederick, murder of, <a href="#page_3">3</a></li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_405" title="pg 405"> </a></li>
+
+<li>Cecil, Lady Gwendoline, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Cecil, Lady Margaret, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Cecil, Lord Edward, <a href="#page_303">303</a></li>
+
+<li>Chaine, Col., <a href="#page_337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Chambord, Comte de, illness of, <a href="#page_156">156</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>death, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Charles IX., <a href="#page_143">143</a></li>
+
+<li>Charles Louis, Arch Duke and Arch Duchess, of Austria, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_66">66</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a>;</li>
+  <li>drive with the Empress at the revue, <a href="#page_103">103</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Chemin, <a href="#page_11">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Chesterfield, Lord, <a href="#page_219">219</a></li>
+
+<li>Chetwode, Sir George and Lady, <a href="#page_172">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Chigi, Marchesa, <a href="#page_358">358</a></li>
+
+<li>Childers, Mr., <a href="#page_182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>Christian, Prince, of Schleswig-Holstein, <a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a></li>
+
+<li>Christian, Princess, <a href="#page_254">254</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a></li>
+
+<li>Churchill, Lady, <a href="#page_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Clanwilliam, Lady, <a href="#page_315">315</a></li>
+
+<li>Clark, Stanley, <a href="#page_363">363</a></li>
+
+<li>Colocotroni, Mlle., <a href="#page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Compans, Ternaux, <a href="#page_125">125</a></li>
+
+<li>Connaught, Duchess of, <a href="#page_368">368</a></li>
+
+<li>Connaught, Duke of, <a href="#page_236">236</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at the Jubilee Te Deum, <a href="#page_249">249</a>;</li>
+  <li>as a soldier, <a href="#page_258">258</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Constantine, Grand Duchess, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Constantine, Grand Duke, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Corcelle, Fran&ccedil;ois de, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Cork, Lady, <a href="#page_388">388</a></li>
+
+<li>Cork, Lord, <a href="#page_197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Correa, Brazilian Minister, <a href="#page_270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Corti, Ambassador, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Courcel, Mdme. de, <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a></li>
+
+<li>Courcel, M. de, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a></li>
+
+<li>Coutouly, M., <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Coventry, Lord, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, <a href="#page_357">357</a></li>
+
+<li>Cowell, Sir John, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Cranborne, Lady, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Cranborne, Lord, <a href="#page_255">255</a></li>
+
+<li>Cumming, Jean Gordon, <a href="#page_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>Curzon, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_310">310</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>D</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>D&mdash;&mdash;, Count, Austrian Ambassador, <a href="#page_236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>Dalhousie, Lord, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a></li>
+
+<li>Darauvilliers, Mlle., <a href="#page_395">395</a></li>
+
+<li>Deichmann, Baron, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a></li>
+
+<li>Deichmann, Baroness Hilda, <a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>described, <a href="#page_210">210</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Deichmann, Elsa, <a href="#page_317">317</a></li>
+
+<li>Deichmann, Hilda, <a href="#page_254">254</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_321">321</a></li>
+
+<li>Deichmann, Wilhelm, <a href="#page_351">351</a></li>
+
+<li>Delamere, Lady, <a href="#page_354">354</a></li>
+
+<li>Delawarr, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Denmark, Crown Prince of, <a href="#page_305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Denmark, King of, <a href="#page_249">249</a></li>
+
+<li>Derby, Lady, reception at home of, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>entertains at Knowsley, <a href="#page_228">228-232</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Derby, Lord, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>D&eacute;roul&egrave;de, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li>
+
+<li>Deym, Bianca, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Deym, Countess, <a href="#page_315">315</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a></li>
+
+<li>Dolgourouky, Prince, <a href="#page_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Dubois, Marie, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Dudzeele, Countess, dances with the Emperor at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a></li>
+
+<li>Dufferin, Lord and Lady, entertain at Walmer Castle, <a href="#page_358">358-360</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>rank, <a href="#page_371">371</a></li>
+  </ul>
+	</li>
+
+<li>Duncan, <a href="#page_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Dupoutet, <a href="#page_347">347</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>E</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Eames, Miss, <a href="#page_295">295</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li>
+
+<li>Edinburgh, Duchess of, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_200">200</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_406" title="pg 406"> </a></li>
+
+<li>Edinburgh, Duke of, <a href="#page_6">6</a>, <a href="#page_45">45</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>daughters, <a href="#page_249">249</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Jubilee Te Deum, <a href="#page_249">249</a>;</li>
+  <li>death, <a href="#page_391">391</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Edward, Prince, of Saxe-Weimar, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_357">357</a></li>
+
+<li>Edwardes, Gay, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Edwardes, Henry, <a href="#page_319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Edwardes, Mrs., <a href="#page_323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>&Eacute;rard, <a href="#page_320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Erroll, Lady, <a href="#page_176">176</a></li>
+
+<li>Esher, Lord, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>d'Estournelles, <a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a></li>
+
+<li>d'Estournelles, Mdme., <a href="#page_326">326</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a></li>
+
+<li>Eug&eacute;nie, Empress, <a href="#page_266">266</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at Cowes, <a href="#page_395">395</a>, <a href="#page_396">396</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Eulenbourg, Count, <a href="#page_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Eulenbourg, Countess, <a href="#page_324">324</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>F</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Falbe, Mme. de, <a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a></li>
+
+<li>Falbe, M. de, <a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Fawkes, Guy, confession, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Fayet, Commandant, <a href="#page_7">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Fife, Duke of, <a href="#page_276">276</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>engagement to Princess Louise, <a href="#page_301">301</a>;</li>
+  <li>marriage, <a href="#page_305">305</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Florian, Count de, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Florian, Countess de, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_306">306</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at White Lodge, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Forbes, <a href="#page_233">233</a></li>
+
+<li>Forges, M. Blanchard de, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Francis, Miss W., <a href="#page_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Fran&ccedil;ois d'Assises, King, <a href="#page_92">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Frederick,  Empress,  Crown Princess, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>described, <a href="#page_253">253</a>;</li>
+  <li>visit to Versailles, <a href="#page_309">309</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Windsor, <a href="#page_310">310-312</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a>;</li>
+  <li>luncheonat Ferdinand Rothschild's, <a href="#page_314">314</a>;</li>
+  <li>receives the Waddingtons, <a href="#page_378">378</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Cronberg, <a href="#page_387">387-390</a>;</li>
+  <li>illness, <a href="#page_394">394</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Frederick III., Emperor, Crown Prince, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>failing health, <a href="#page_254">254</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a>;</li>
+  <li>death, <a href="#page_282">282</a>;</li>
+  <li>funeral service, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Frederica, Princess, of Hanover, <a href="#page_204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Frederick Charles, Prince, <a href="#page_243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Frederick Charles, Princess, <a href="#page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Freeman, Violet, <a href="#page_321">321</a></li>
+
+<li>Froude, J. A., <a href="#page_229">229</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>on America, <a href="#page_231">231</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>G</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Galitzin, Prince, <a href="#page_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Gardner, Lady Winifred, <a href="#page_346">346</a></li>
+
+<li>Gayare, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Gennadius, <a href="#page_336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>George II., <a href="#page_267">267</a></li>
+
+<li>George, Prince, <a href="#page_200">200</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>report of marriage to Princess May, <a href="#page_362">362</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Gevers, Baron, <a href="#page_338">338</a></li>
+
+<li>Ghika, Princess, <a href="#page_222">222</a></li>
+
+<li>Giers, M. de, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Gilbert, <a href="#page_369">369</a></li>
+
+<li>Gille, Mdme., <a href="#page_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Gladstone, Mr. W. E., described, <a href="#page_3">3</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>versatility, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a>;</li>
+  <li>gives a reception, <a href="#page_188">188</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>;</li>
+  <li>dines at Mr. Murray's, <a href="#page_315">315</a>;</li>
+  <li>age, <a href="#page_346">346</a>;</li>
+  <li>makes his great Irish speech, <a href="#page_363">363</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Gladstone, Mrs. W. E., <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>gives a dinner for the Archbishop of Canterbury, <a href="#page_355">355</a>, <a href="#page_356">356</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Gladstone, Wm., <a href="#page_172">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Glinka's opera, "La Vie pour le Czar," <a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Goelet, Mrs., <a href="#page_391">391</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>receives the Royal party aboard the Nahma, <a href="#page_397">397</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Gordon, "Chinese," murder of, <a href="#page_199">199</a></li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_407" title="pg 407"> </a></li>
+
+<li>Goschens, <a href="#page_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Gower, Mr. Leveson, <a href="#page_172">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Grant, General U. S., death, <a href="#page_218">218</a></li>
+
+<li>Grant, Mrs., <a href="#page_400">400</a></li>
+
+<li>Granville, Countess, <a href="#page_195">195</a></li>
+
+<li>Granville, Earl, entertains M. Waddington, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Greece, King of, <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a>, <a href="#page_305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Greece, Queen of, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>described, <a href="#page_72">72</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Greene, Plunkett, <a href="#page_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Grey, Lady Jane, <a href="#page_175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Grieg, <a href="#page_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Griswold, Miss Gertrude, <a href="#page_234">234</a></li>
+
+<li>Grondal, Mdme., <a href="#page_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Guillemain, M., <a href="#page_348">348</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>H</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Halsbury, <a href="#page_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Hamilton, Duchess of, <a href="#page_236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>Hamilton, Lord and Lady Claud, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Harbord, Miss, <a href="#page_400">400</a></li>
+
+<li>Harcourt, Lady, <a href="#page_174">174</a>;
+	<ul class="none">
+	<li>presents Mme. Waddington to the Queen, <a href="#page_175">175</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a></li>
+	</ul>
+	</li>
+
+<li>Harcourt, Sir William, <a href="#page_174">174</a></li>
+
+<li>Hare, the actor, <a href="#page_346">346</a></li>
+
+<li>Hartington, Lord, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Hatzfeldt, Comte, <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_303">303</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_325">325</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at Hatfield, <a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Hawaiian Secretary, <a href="#page_245">245</a></li>
+
+<li>Hayter, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_183">183</a>, <a href="#page_200">200</a></li>
+
+<li>Henrietta &mdash;&mdash;, <a href="#page_10">10</a> <em>et passim</em></li>
+
+<li>Henry, Prince, of Battenberg, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a></li>
+
+<li>Herberts, Ivor, <a href="#page_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Heretier, Grand Duke, <a href="#page_103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Herkomer, his studio and pupils, <a href="#page_344">344-346</a></li>
+
+<li>Herschell, Lady, <a href="#page_359">359</a></li>
+
+<li>Herschell, Lord, <a href="#page_366">366</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a>
+</li>
+<li>Heurtel, Mme., <a href="#page_261">261</a></li>
+
+<li>Hoffman, Col. and Mrs., <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a></li>
+
+<li>Hollman, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Hubert, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <em>et passim</em></li>
+
+<li>Hubert, Mdme., <a href="#page_5">5</a>, <a href="#page_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Huddlestone, Lady Diana, <a href="#page_279">279</a></li>
+
+<li>Humlicher, Marie, <a href="#page_374">374</a>, <a href="#page_375">375</a></li>
+
+<li>Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a></li>
+
+<li>Hurlbert, Mr., <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>I</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Isabella, Queen, <a href="#page_92">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Ivan the Terrible, <a href="#page_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>J</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Jansen, Mlle., <a href="#page_377">377</a></li>
+
+<li>Jaur&egrave;s, Admiral, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>his hospitality, <a href="#page_118">118</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Jaur&egrave;s, Mdme., <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a>;</li>
+  <li>aboard the Lancaster, <a href="#page_122">122</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Jay, Anna, <a href="#page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Jersey, Lady, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>experiences at receptions, <a href="#page_211">211</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Jersey, Lord, <a href="#page_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Jeune, Mr. and Mrs., <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a></li>
+
+<li>Jeune, Sir Francis, <a href="#page_367">367</a></li>
+
+<li>Joachim, <a href="#page_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Johore, Maharajah of, <a href="#page_216">216</a></li>
+
+<li>Jomini, M., <a href="#page_120">120</a></li>
+
+<li>Joseph, <a href="#page_7">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Joy, Mr., <a href="#page_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Jusserand, J. J., <a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_277">277</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>, <a href="#page_380">380</a></li>
+
+<li>Juteau, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>K</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Kapilani, Queen, of the Sandwich Islands, <a href="#page_245">245</a>, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Karolyi, Count, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a></li>
+
+<li>Karolyi, Count Victor, <a href="#page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Karolyi, Countess Fanny, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a></li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_408" title="pg 408"> </a></li>
+
+<li>Karolyi, Nadine, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Kenmare, Lord, <a href="#page_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Kergorlay, M. de, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>his children, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Khiva, Khan of, <a href="#page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Kimberley, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>King, Rufus, <a href="#page_179">179</a></li>
+
+<li>Kleeberg, Mme., <a href="#page_270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Knollys, Miss, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>, <a href="#page_320">320</a>, <a href="#page_363">363</a></li>
+
+<li>Knowles, <a href="#page_246">246</a></li>
+
+<li>Knowles, James, <a href="#page_366">366</a></li>
+
+<li>Knutsford, Lord, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Kotchoubey, Princess, <a href="#page_49">49-51</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_82">82</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a></li>
+
+<li>Kufstein, Count, <a href="#page_269">269</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>L</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Lacour, Challemel, Ministre des Affaires &Eacute;trang&egrave;res, appoints M. Waddington Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow, <a href="#page_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li>Lagren&eacute;, M., <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>La Iglesia, M. de Casa, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>appointed Ambassador, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Langhe, Mlle. de, <a href="#page_285">285</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>helps with the children's comedy, <a href="#page_315">315</a> <em>et seq.</em></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Lasteyrie, <a href="#page_347">347</a></li>
+
+<li>Lataings, <a href="#page_338">338</a></li>
+
+<li>Lathom, Lord, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>on the Jubilee ceremonies, <a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Lawrence, Mrs., <a href="#page_148">148</a></li>
+
+<li>Lawrence, Anna, <a href="#page_317">317</a></li>
+
+<li>Layard, Lady, <a href="#page_388">388</a></li>
+
+<li>Lecky, Mr., <a href="#page_229">229</a></li>
+
+<li>Lecomte, M., <a href="#page_298">298</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Leeds, Duke and Duchess of, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Leeven, Baron, <a href="#page_118">118</a></li>
+
+<li>Leigh, Tom, <a href="#page_269">269</a></li>
+
+<li>Leighton, Sir Frederick, <a href="#page_310">310</a></li>
+
+<li>Lennox, Lord Algy, <a href="#page_388">388</a></li>
+
+<li>Leroy, Mr., <a href="#page_7">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Le Valloit, Mdme., <a href="#page_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Levisohn, Mlle., organizes a "toy symphony," <a href="#page_351">351</a> <em>et seq.</em></li>
+
+<li>Lhermite, M., <a href="#page_8">8</a></li>
+
+<li>Lincoln, Mr., <a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a>, <a href="#page_380">380</a></li>
+
+<li>Lind, Letty, <a href="#page_271">271</a></li>
+
+<li>Linden, Countess, <a href="#page_85">85</a></li>
+
+<li>Lionel, Lord, <a href="#page_232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Llangattock, Lord, <a href="#page_393">393</a></li>
+
+<li>Lloyd, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Lloyd, Lady Mary, <a href="#page_349">349</a></li>
+
+<li>Lomatch, M., <a href="#page_126">126</a></li>
+
+<li>London, Lord Mayor and Mayoress of, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_367">367</a></li>
+
+<li>Londonderry, Lady, <a href="#page_303">303</a>, <a href="#page_315">315</a></li>
+
+<li>Lonsdale, Lady, <a href="#page_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Lorne, Lord, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a>, <a href="#page_366">366</a></li>
+
+<li>Louis Philippe, <a href="#page_171">171</a></li>
+
+<li>Louise, Princess, <a href="#page_200">200</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>announcement of her engagement, <a href="#page_301">301</a>;</li>
+  <li>marriage, <a href="#page_305">305</a>; at Kensington, <a href="#page_379">379</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Lowell, James Russell, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>death of his wife, <a href="#page_200">200</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Lowell, Mrs., <a href="#page_180">180</a>;
+	<ul class="none">
+	<li>death of, <a href="#page_200">200</a></li>
+	</ul>
+	</li>
+
+<li>Lyons, Lord, <a href="#page_3">3</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Lytton, Lord, <a href="#page_183">183</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>M</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Mackay, Mr. and Mrs., <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>MacMahon, Mar&eacute;chal, <a href="#page_6">6</a>, <a href="#page_7">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Magdalen, Master of, <a href="#page_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Malagache Embassy, <a href="#page_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Manners, Lord and Lady John, <a href="#page_218">218</a></li>
+
+<li>Mansouroff, Madame, <a href="#page_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Margaretta, Princess, <a href="#page_311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Margherita, Queen, <a href="#page_399">399</a></li>
+
+<li>Marochetti, Italian Minister, <a href="#page_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Mary of Teck, Princess, <a href="#page_244">244</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>described, <a href="#page_275">275</a>;</li>
+  <li>at White Lodge, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_362">362</a>;</li>
+  <li>opens the French bazaar, <a href="#page_373">373</a>;</li>
+  <li>tea at Mme. Waddington's, <a href="#page_377">377</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_409" title="pg 409"> </a></li>
+
+<li>Mary, Queen, "Bloody Mary," letter to Cardinal Pole, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Mary, Queen of Scots, portraits of, <a href="#page_288">288</a></li>
+
+<li>Massanet, <a href="#page_295">295</a></li>
+
+<li>Mathias, M., <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Maud, Princess, <a href="#page_320">320</a>, <a href="#page_330">330</a></li>
+
+<li>Mavrocordato, <a href="#page_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>May, Princess, <a href="#page_244">244</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>engagement to the Duke of Clarence, <a href="#page_333">333</a>;</li>
+  <li>grief for, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>;</li>
+  <li>rumour of marriage to Prince George, <a href="#page_362">362</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the French bazaar, <a href="#page_374">374</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Mazo, del, Spanish Ambassador, <a href="#page_368">368</a></li>
+
+<li>Mead, Lady J., <a href="#page_317">317</a></li>
+
+<li>Mecklenburg, Duke and Duchess Paul of, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_272">272</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Mensdorff, <a href="#page_377">377</a></li>
+
+<li>Merindol, <a href="#page_348">348</a></li>
+
+<li>Methuen, Lord, <a href="#page_176">176</a></li>
+
+<li>Michel, Grand Duchess, receives Mme. Waddington, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>described, <a href="#page_94">94</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Michel, Grand Duke, <a href="#page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Mitford, Mrs., <a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a></li>
+
+<li>Mohrenheim, M. de, Russian Ambassador, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at Windsor Castle, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Mohrenheim, Madame de, <a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a></li>
+
+<li>Molesworth, Lady, <a href="#page_217">217</a></li>
+
+<li>Moltke, <a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a></li>
+
+<li>Monaco, Princess of, <a href="#page_326">326</a></li>
+
+<li>Monk, Mr. Charles, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a></li>
+
+<li>Monk, Miss Julia, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Montebello, <a href="#page_372">372</a></li>
+
+<li>Montpensier, Duc de, <a href="#page_6">6</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_46">46</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Montrose, Duchess of, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Mostyn, Mrs., <a href="#page_378">378</a></li>
+
+<li>Moulin, M., <a href="#page_125">125</a></li>
+
+<li>M&uuml;nster, German Ambassador, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Murray, Mr., <a href="#page_315">315</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>N</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Naidillac, Marquis de, <a href="#page_326">326</a></li>
+
+<li>Nannie, <a href="#page_352">352</a></li>
+
+<li>Neruda, Mdme., <a href="#page_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Newcastle, Duke and Duchess of, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Newman, <a href="#page_308">308</a></li>
+
+<li>Nigra, Italian Ambassador, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_68">68</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_82">82</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>describes Russian society, <a href="#page_98">98</a>;</li>
+  <li>in London, <a href="#page_179">179</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Windsor Castle, <a href="#page_192">192</a>;</li>
+  <li>departure for Vienna, <a href="#page_223">223</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Noccomore, Commandant, <a href="#page_261">261</a></li>
+
+<li>Nordica, <a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_284">284</a></li>
+
+<li>Northbrook, Lord, <a href="#page_183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Northcote, Lady, <a href="#page_306">306</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li>
+
+<li>Northcote, Sir Stafford, <a href="#page_189">189</a></li>
+
+<li>Northumberland, Lord, <a href="#page_360">360</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>O</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Oborlenski, Princess, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Oldenburg, Duchess of, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Oppenheim, Mrs., <a href="#page_284">284</a></li>
+
+<li>Orl&eacute;ans Princes, <a href="#page_274">274</a></li>
+
+<li>Orloff, Prince, <a href="#page_9">9</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a></li>
+
+<li>d'Orval, M., <a href="#page_108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Ourousoff, Prince, <a href="#page_105">105</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>P</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>P&mdash;&mdash;, Lady, <a href="#page_213">213</a></li>
+
+<li>P&mdash;&mdash;, Lizzie, <a href="#page_243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Pahlen, Count, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_54">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Pahlen, Countess, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Palmerston, Lord, <a href="#page_171">171</a></li>
+
+<li>Paris, Comte de, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_274">274</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a></li>
+
+<li>Pasquier, Duc d'Audifret, <a href="#page_274">274</a></li>
+
+<li>Paten&ocirc;tre, M., <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>characterises the Swedes, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>;</li>
+  <li>bids farewell to the Waddingtons, <a href="#page_143">143</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Paul, Mr., aide-de-camp, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a></li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_410" title="pg 410"> </a></li>
+
+<li>Paulucci, Marquis, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a></li>
+
+<li>Pawel-Rammingen, Baron, <a href="#page_204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Peel, Sir Robert, his daughter, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Pepys, Lady Mary, <a href="#page_285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Percy, Countess, <a href="#page_360">360</a></li>
+
+<li>Perier, Mdme. Casimir, <a href="#page_277">277</a></li>
+
+<li>Perponcher, Countess, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_388">388</a></li>
+
+<li>Persia, Grand Vizier of, <a href="#page_303">303</a></li>
+
+<li>Persia, Shah of, at the Court Ball, <a href="#page_301">301</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>arrival by water, <a href="#page_301">301</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a>;</li>
+  <li>luncheon party at Hatfield in his honour, <a href="#page_302">302-304</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Peter the Great, portraits of, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_119">119</a></li>
+
+<li>Petiteville, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Petre, Mr. Henry, <a href="#page_313">313</a></li>
+
+<li>Pfeffer, <a href="#page_351">351</a></li>
+
+<li>Phelps, Edward J., American Ambassador, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Phelps, Marguerite, <a href="#page_317">317</a></li>
+
+<li>Phelps, Mrs., <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Phillipe, the coiffeur, <a href="#page_12">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Picolellis, <a href="#page_272">272</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a></li>
+
+<li>Pierson, <a href="#page_7">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Pina, M. de, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_163">163</a></li>
+
+<li>Pitti&eacute;, G&eacute;n&eacute;ral, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_24">24</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Plunkett, Mr., <a href="#page_4">4</a></li>
+
+<li>Ponsonby, Sir Henry, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Pontavice, <a href="#page_320">320</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a></li>
+
+<li>Pont&eacute;coulant, Comte de, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_20">20</a> <em>et passim</em>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>death of his brother, <a href="#page_94">94</a>;</li>
+  <li>his death, <a href="#page_208">208</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Portland, Duke of, <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Pourtal&egrave;s, Comte Jacques de, <a href="#page_233">233</a></li>
+
+<li>Poutel, Mdme. du, <a href="#page_373">373</a></li>
+
+<li>Powell, Mr. Price W., <a href="#page_172">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Praed, Mr., <a href="#page_218">218</a></li>
+
+<li>Prince Imperial of Germany, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Probyn, Sir Digby, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_363">363</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Q</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Quirim, Miss, <a href="#page_333">333</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>R</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Radziwill, <a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a></li>
+
+<li>Radziwill, Princess, <a href="#page_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Rambaut, M., <a href="#page_395">395</a></li>
+
+<li>Randolph Churchill, Lady, <a href="#page_377">377</a></li>
+
+<li>Regnier, Arch Duke, of Austria, <a href="#page_259">259</a></li>
+
+<li>Reischach, Baron, <a href="#page_388">388</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a></li>
+
+<li>Renan, <a href="#page_309">309</a></li>
+
+<li>Reszke, Jean de, <a href="#page_315">315</a></li>
+
+<li>Ribot, <a href="#page_372">372</a></li>
+
+<li>Richard, Mdme., <a href="#page_320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Richelieu, Duchesse de, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Richter, General, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a></li>
+
+<li>Rizzio, murder of, <a href="#page_288">288</a></li>
+
+<li>Roffy, Mrs., <a href="#page_316">316</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_321">321</a></li>
+
+<li>Rogers, aide-de-camp, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a></li>
+
+<li>Rogers, Canon, <a href="#page_297">297</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>takes Mme. Waddington through Petticoat Lane, <a href="#page_298">298</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>;</li>
+  <li>his good work, <a href="#page_299">299</a>, <a href="#page_300">300</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Ronalds, Mrs., <a href="#page_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosebery, Lady, <a href="#page_204">204</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>gives a ball, <a href="#page_255">255</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Rosebery, Lord, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Rothschild, Ferdinand, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li>
+
+<li>Rothschild, Lord, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Roustan, naval attach&eacute;, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Rudolph, Prince, <a href="#page_247">247</a>
+</li>
+<li>Roxburghe, Duchess of, <a href="#page_257">257</a>, <a href="#page_392">392</a>, <a href="#page_398">398</a></li>
+
+<li>Russia, Empress of, <a href="#page_45">45</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>coronation of, <a href="#page_65">65-67</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Coronation breakfast, <a href="#page_67">67-70</a>;</li>
+  <li>versatility as a linguist, <a href="#page_73">73</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the great ball, <a href="#page_78">78</a>;</li>
+  <li>gives a tea between the acts at the Opera, <a href="#page_80">80</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the gala dinner, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_94">94</a>;</li>
+  <li>drives without escort, <a href="#page_98">98</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the revue, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Rustem Pacha, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_366">366</a></li>
+
+<li>Rutland, Duchess of, <a href="#page_304">304</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>S</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_411" title="pg 411"> </a></li>
+
+<li>Sagan, Duke of, <a href="#page_159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Albans, Duchess of, <a href="#page_377">377</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Clair, Lady Harriet, <a href="#page_179">179</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Genys, <a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_306">306</a>, <a href="#page_315">315</a>, <a href="#page_316">316</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Vallier, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Salisbury, Lady, gives reception, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>entertains the Waddingtons at Hatfield, <a href="#page_215">215</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>;</li>
+  <li>luncheon party in honour of the Shah, <a href="#page_302">302</a>-<a href="#page_304">304</a>;</li>
+  <li>on the ice, <a href="#page_306">306</a>, <a href="#page_307">307</a>;</li>
+  <li>gives luncheon for the German Emperor, <a href="#page_329">329</a>-<a href="#page_332">332</a>;</li>
+  <li>desire for rest, <a href="#page_356">356</a>;</li>
+  <li>crosses the channel, <a href="#page_362">362</a>;</li>
+  <li>makes a speech, <a href="#page_376">376</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Salisbury, Lord, <a href="#page_189">189</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>speaks in the House of Lords, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a>;</li>
+  <li>at opening of Parliament, <a href="#page_237">237</a>;</li>
+  <li>reception, <a href="#page_243">243</a>;</li>
+  <li>entertains the Shah, <a href="#page_303">303</a>;</li>
+  <li>and the German Emperor, <a href="#page_329">329-331</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Sancy, M. de, <a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a></li>
+
+<li>Sanderson, Miss, <a href="#page_295">295</a></li>
+
+<li>Sanderson, Mr. Thomas, <a href="#page_337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Sandford, Mr., <a href="#page_143">143</a></li>
+
+<li>Sarasate, <a href="#page_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Saxe-Weimar, Prince Herman, <a href="#page_254">254</a></li>
+
+<li>Say, L&eacute;on, <a href="#page_3">3</a></li>
+
+<li>Scalchi, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Scarlett, Miss, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Schimmelpenninck, M., <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a></li>
+
+<li>Schubert, <a href="#page_345">345</a></li>
+
+<li>Schuster, Frank, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Schuyler, <a href="#page_308">308</a></li>
+
+<li>Schweinitz, General, <a href="#page_39">39</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at the Coronation Breakfast, <a href="#page_70">70</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_73">73</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Schweinitz, Madame, <a href="#page_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Seckendorff, Count, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a>, <a href="#page_313">313</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Sefton, Lord, <a href="#page_231">231</a></li>
+
+<li>S&eacute;gur, Comte Paul de, <a href="#page_274">274</a></li>
+
+<li>Serge, Grand Duchess, <a href="#page_256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Sermet, M., <a href="#page_125">125</a></li>
+
+<li>Sesmaisons, Colonel Comte de, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a> <em>et passim</em></li>
+
+<li>Seymour, Admiral, <a href="#page_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li>Seymour, Lord William, <a href="#page_382">382</a></li>
+
+<li>Seymour, Sir Francis, <a href="#page_202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Sheridan, May, <a href="#page_247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Smith, W. H., holds a political reception, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Solvyns, Baron, <a href="#page_336">336</a>, <a href="#page_381">381</a></li>
+
+<li>Somaglia, Countess, <a href="#page_361">361</a></li>
+
+<li>Southampton, Lady, <a href="#page_370">370</a></li>
+
+<li>Soveral, Portuguese Minister, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a></li>
+
+<li>Spain, King of, death of, <a href="#page_220">220</a></li>
+
+<li>Spencer, Countess, <a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_369">369</a></li>
+
+<li>Staal, M. de, Russian Ambassador, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at Hatfield,<a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Staal, Madame de, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>described, <a href="#page_243">243</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Staal, Thekla, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>Stainer, Dr., <a href="#page_348">348</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanhope, Lady, <a href="#page_18">18</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>entertains the Waddingtons and others, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Stanhope, Lord, <a href="#page_219">219</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanhope, Mr. and Mrs. Edward, <a href="#page_218">218</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanhope, Philip, <a href="#page_361">361</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Dowager Lady, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanleys, <a href="#page_355">355</a></li>
+
+<li>Struve, M. and Mdme. de, <a href="#page_120">120</a></li>
+
+<li>Stewart, Lady Helen, <a href="#page_317">317</a></li>
+
+<li>Stuart, Miss, <a href="#page_348">348</a></li>
+
+<li>Sudely, Lord, <a href="#page_297">297</a></li>
+
+<li>Suffield, Lady, <a href="#page_363">363</a></li>
+
+<li>Suffield, Lord, <a href="#page_363">363</a></li>
+
+<li>Sullivan, Sir Arthur, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Sutherland, Duchess of, <a href="#page_236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>Sweden, Crown Prince of, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a></li>
+
+<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_412" title="pg 412"> </a></li>
+
+<li>Sweden, King of, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a></li>
+
+<li>Sweden, Prince Royal of, <a href="#page_145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>Sydney, Lord, <a href="#page_359">359</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>T</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Tadema, Alma, <a href="#page_379">379</a></li>
+
+<li>Talleyrand, Bessie, <a href="#page_391">391</a></li>
+
+<li>Tavistock, Lord, <a href="#page_281">281</a></li>
+
+<li>Teck, Duke of, <a href="#page_236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>Teesdale, <a href="#page_369">369</a></li>
+
+<li>Tennyson, <a href="#page_183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Th&eacute;nard, <a href="#page_284">284</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a>;
+ <ul class="none">
+ <li>assists producing the children's comedy, <a href="#page_315">315</a> <em>et seq.</em></li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+
+<li>Thomson, Mr., <a href="#page_339">339</a></li>
+
+<li>Thornton, Lady, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a>;</li>
+  <li>aboard the Lancaster, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Thornton, Mary, <a href="#page_126">126</a></li>
+
+<li>Thornton, Sir Edward, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li>Thornycroft, <a href="#page_278">278</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a></li>
+
+<li>Toll, Count and Countess, <a href="#page_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Tornielli, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_361">361</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a></li>
+
+<li>Tosti, <a href="#page_272">272</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a>, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Trebelli, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Tr&eacute;mouille, Charlotte de la, <a href="#page_230">230</a></li>
+
+<li>Trevelyans, <a href="#page_355">355</a></li>
+
+<li>Troubetzkoi, Princess Lise, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a></li>
+
+<li>Tweeddale, Lady, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Tweedmouth, Lord, <a href="#page_354">354</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>V</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Val Prinsep, <a href="#page_388">388</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a></li>
+
+<li>Vannutelli, Mgr., <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>visits the Lancaster, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Victoria, Princess, <a href="#page_320">320</a>, <a href="#page_397">397</a></li>
+
+<li>Victoria, Queen, receives Mme. Waddington, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>described, <a href="#page_177">177</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Windsor Castle, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>;</li>
+  <li>Drawing-room, <a href="#page_206">206</a>;</li>
+  <li>holds long Drawing-room, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a>;</li>
+  <li>opens Parliament, <a href="#page_235">235-238</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Jubilee ceremonies in Westminster Abbey, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>;</li>
+  <li>in the procession after the service, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>;</li>
+  <li>receives at the Palace, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the children's f&ecirc;te in Hyde Park, <a href="#page_254">254</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a>;</li>
+  <li>reviews the Volunteers, <a href="#page_257">257</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Naval Review, <a href="#page_260">260-264</a>;</li>
+  <li>with the Empress Frederick at Windsor, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a>;</li>
+  <li>bids farewell to the Waddingtons, <a href="#page_368">368</a>, <a href="#page_370">370-372</a>;</li>
+  <li>receives Mme. Waddington at Osborne, <a href="#page_397">397-401</a>;</li>
+  <li>death, <a href="#page_401">401</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Villiers, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Villestreux, Mdme. de la, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a></li>
+
+<li>Vinci, Comte, <a href="#page_350">350</a></li>
+
+<li>Vivian, Lady, <a href="#page_210">210</a></li>
+
+<li>Vivian, Lord, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>W</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Waddington, Francis, <a href="#page_10">10</a> <em>et passim</em>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>as an actor, <a href="#page_285">285</a>, <a href="#page_315">315</a> <em>et seq</em>;</li>
+  <li>placed in a French school, <a href="#page_332">332</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Waddington, Mme., meets Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, <a href="#page_3">3</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>M. Waddington appointed Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow, to represent France at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_4">4-6</a>;</li>
+  <li>preparations for Moscow, <a href="#page_6">6-12</a>;</li>
+  <li>arrives at Berlin, <a href="#page_13">13</a>, <a href="#page_14">14</a>;</li>
+  <li>impression of Berlin, <a href="#page_15">15</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits the de Bunsens, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>;</li>
+  <li>goes to the races, <a href="#page_18">18</a>;</li>
+  <li>departure from Berlin, <a href="#page_22">22</a>;</li>
+  <li>dines at Alexandrownow with a Hessian Prince, <a href="#page_23">23</a>;</li>
+  <li>reaches Warsaw, <a href="#page_24">24</a>;</li>
+  <li>describes the city, <a href="#page_24">24</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits a chateau, <a href="#page_25">25</a>;</li>
+  <li>the trip from Warsaw to Moscow, <a href="#page_26">26-31</a>;</li>
+  <li>arrival at Moscow, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_32">32</a>;</li>
+  <li>description of the Maison Klein, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_33">33</a>;</li>
+
+	<li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_413" title="pg 413"> </a></li>
+  <li>experiences with a Court train, <a href="#page_36">36</a>;</li>
+  <li>drives through Moscow, <a href="#page_37">37-39</a>;</li>
+  <li>the Emperor's entrance into the Kremlin, <a href="#page_42">42-46</a>;</li>
+  <li>received by the Empress, <a href="#page_47">47-52</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits Princess Obolenski, <a href="#page_52">52</a>;</li>
+  <li>goes over the palaces at the Kremlin, <a href="#page_54">54</a>;</li>
+  <li>famous paintings and jewels in the Church of the Assomption, <a href="#page_54">54</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits Princess Radziwill and Countess Pahlen, <a href="#page_55">55</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the reception of the Arch Duke and Duchess Albert of Austria, <a href="#page_56">56-58</a>;</li>
+  <li>attends reception at M. de Giers', <a href="#page_58">58</a>;</li>
+  <li>audience with Grand Duchess Michel, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>;</li>
+  <li>with the Grand Duchess Constantine, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>;</li>
+  <li>with the Duchesse d'Oldenburg, <a href="#page_61">61</a>;</li>
+  <li>and the Grand Duchess Wladmir, <a href="#page_61">61</a>;</li>
+  <li>dines with the permanent French Embassy, <a href="#page_62">62</a>;</li>
+  <li>the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_63">63-67</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>, <a href="#page_71">71</a>;</li>
+  <li>the Coronation breakfast, <a href="#page_67">67-70</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the presentation of felicitations to the Emperor and Empress, <a href="#page_71">71-73</a>;</li>
+  <li> presented to the Queen of Greece, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_72">72</a>;</li>
+  <li>appearance of the Embassies, <a href="#page_72">72</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a>;</li>
+  <li>goes to the Court ball, <a href="#page_73">73-75</a>;</li>
+  <li>dances with the Emperor and Grand Duke Wladimir, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>;</li>
+  <li>the F&ecirc;te Populaire, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_82">82</a>;</li>
+  <li>gives a Russian dinner, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_77">77</a>;</li>
+  <li>the great ball at the Palace, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a>;</li>
+  <li>goes shopping, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a>;</li>
+  <li>attends the Opera, <a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>;</li>
+  <li>tea with the Empress, <a href="#page_80">80</a>;</li>
+  <li>gives a diplomatic dinner, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>;</li>
+  <li>photographing the whole establishment, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_84">84</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Palace ball, <a href="#page_85">85-90</a>;</li>
+  <li>sees the Tr&eacute;sor, <a href="#page_91">91</a>;</li>
+  <li>the gala dinner, <a href="#page_92">92-94</a>;</li>
+  <li>the institution of the "Enfants Trouv&eacute;s," <a href="#page_95">95</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>;</li>
+  <li>gives a reception, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>;</li>
+  <li>the revue at the Tribune Imperiale, <a href="#page_102">102-104</a>;</li>
+  <li>sightseeing in Moscow, <a href="#page_106">106</a>;</li>
+  <li>preparations for leaving Moscow, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>;</li>
+  <li>takes a moonlight drive to the Kremlin, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>;</li>
+  <li>departure from Moscow, <a href="#page_111">111</a>;</li>
+  <li>the journey to Petersburg, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>;</li>
+  <li>description of Petersburg, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>;</li>
+  <li>the Hermitage, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>;</li>
+  <li>"La Pointe," <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>;</li>
+  <li>the pictures at the Hermitage, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>;</li>
+  <li>makes an excursion to Peterhof, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>;</li>
+  <li>dinner at the Hunts', <a href="#page_120">120</a>;</li>
+  <li>entertained by Admiral Baldwin on board the flagship Lancaster, <a href="#page_120">120-123</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits the Thorntons, <a href="#page_124">124</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>;</li>
+  <li>shopping in Petersburg, <a href="#page_126">126</a>;</li>
+  <li>the voyage by steamer to Stockholm, <a href="#page_126">126-134</a>;</li>
+  <li>description of Helsingfors, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a>;</li>
+  <li>Abo, the old capital of Finland, <a href="#page_132">132</a>;</li>
+  <li>the approach to Stockholm, <a href="#page_134">134</a>;</li>
+  <li>drives through Stockholm, <a href="#page_135">135-139</a>;</li>
+  <li>to Drottningholm, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a>;</li>
+  <li>shopping in Stockholm, <a href="#page_141">141</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>;</li>
+  <li>journeys from Stockholm to Copenhagen, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>;</li>
+  <li>drives through Copenhagen, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits the Historical Museum, <a href="#page_146">146</a>;</li>
+  <li>a pleasant expedition to Tivoli, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>;</li>
+  <li>the Thorwaldsen Gallery, <a href="#page_149">149</a>;</li>
+  <li>a Swedish wedding at the Frauen Kirche, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>;</li>
+  <li>the excessive heat, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a>;</li>
+  <li>sees the treasures at Rosenburg, <a href="#page_152">152</a>;</li>
+
+  <li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_414" title="pg 414"> </a></li>
+  <li>M. de Kergorlay's dinner, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>;</li>
+  <li>departure from Copenhagen, <a href="#page_157">157</a>;</li>
+  <li>from Korsoe to Kiel, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a>;</li>
+  <li>arrives at Hamburg, <a href="#page_158">158</a>;</li>
+  <li>view of Hamburg from the lake, <a href="#page_161">161</a>;</li>
+  <li>a moonlight drive, <a href="#page_163">163</a>;</li>
+  <li>leaves Hamburg, <a href="#page_163">163</a>;</li>
+  <li>arrives at Cologne, <a href="#page_163">163</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a>;</li>
+  <li>returns to Paris, <a href="#page_165">165</a>; stays at Boulogne-sur-Mur, <a href="#page_167">167</a>;</li>
+  <li>crosses to England, <a href="#page_167">167</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a>;</li>
+  <li>inspects her future home in London, <a href="#page_168">168</a>, <a href="#page_169">169</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits the Monks, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a>;</li>
+  <li>getting settled in London, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a>;</li>
+  <li>presented to the Queen, <a href="#page_175">175-177</a>;</li>
+  <li>Windsor Castle, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a>;</li>
+  <li>has an audience of the Prince and Princess of Wales, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a>;</li>
+  <li>with the Duchess of Cambridge, <a href="#page_180">180</a>;</li>
+  <li>domestic arrangements, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits the Dowager Lady Stanley, <a href="#page_181">181</a>;</li>
+  <li>talks with Mr. Gladstone, <a href="#page_181">181</a> <a href="#page_182">182</a>;</li>
+  <li>politics, <a href="#page_183">183</a>;</li>
+  <li>entertained by the Prince and Princess of Wales at Sandringham, <a href="#page_184">184-186;</a></li>
+  <li>attends a hunt and hunt ball, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_188">188</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Mr. Gladstone's reception, <a href="#page_188">188</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>;</li>
+  <li>commanded to dine and sleep at Windsor, <a href="#page_191">191-194</a>;</li>
+  <li>first Drawing-room, <a href="#page_194">194-197</a>;</li>
+  <li>goes to the Derby, <a href="#page_197">197</a>;</li>
+  <li>to the meet of the Coaching Club and a polo game, <a href="#page_197">197</a>, <a href="#page_198">198</a>;</li>
+  <li>reception at Devonshire House, <a href="#page_199">199</a>;</li>
+  <li>dinners and routs, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_200">200</a>;</li>
+  <li>Lady Tweeddale's dinner, <a href="#page_201">201</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the ball of the Artillery Corps, <a href="#page_202">202</a>;</li>
+  <li>Drawing-room, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>;</li>
+  <li>sees the Queen, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>;</li>
+  <li>Westminster Abbey, <a href="#page_205">205</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits Blenheim, <a href="#page_209">209</a>;</li>
+  <li>conference "sur Racine," <a href="#page_212">212</a>;</li>
+  <li>long Drawing-room, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits Lady Salisbury at Hatfield <a href="#page_215">215</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>;</li>
+  <li>lunches with Prince and Princess of Wales, <a href="#page_216">216</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Lord Aberdeen's hay-making party, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a>;</li>
+  <li>Court concert, <a href="#page_217">217</a>;</li>
+  <li>spends Sunday at the Stanhopes, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>;</li>
+  <li>London fog, <a href="#page_221">221</a>;</li>
+  <li>Christmas shopping, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a>;</li>
+  <li>farewell dinner to Nigra, <a href="#page_223">223</a>;</li>
+  <li>celebrates Christmas, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>;</li>
+  <li>impressions of a Roman Christmas, <a href="#page_227">227</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits at Knowsley, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_228">228-232</a>;</li>
+  <li>portraits and literary treasures at Knowsley, <a href="#page_229">229</a>, <a href="#page_230">230</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits the Falbes at Luton, <a href="#page_232">232-234</a>;</li>
+  <li>St. Paul's, <a href="#page_234">234</a>;</li>
+  <li>gives dinners, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>;</li>
+  <li>attends the opening of Parliament, <a href="#page_235">235-238</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Windsor Castle again, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>;</li>
+  <li>drives to the Mausoleum, <a href="#page_239">239</a>;</li>
+  <li>spends Sunday at the Karolyis at Clieveden, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>;</li>
+  <li>defeat of the French troops at Tonkin, <a href="#page_241">241</a>;</li>
+  <li>interesting old manuscripts at Roll's Court, <a href="#page_242">242</a>;</li>
+  <li>Lady Ashburton's house, <a href="#page_242">242</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Opera, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits the Tecks, <a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_244">244</a>;</li>
+  <li>presented to the Queen of the Sandwich Islands, <a href="#page_245">245-247</a>;</li>
+  <li>preparations for the Jubilee, <a href="#page_245">245</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_248">248</a>;</li>
+  <li>arranges to see the cort&eacute;ge immediately after the service in Westminster Abbey, <a href="#page_245">245-248</a>;</li>
+  <li>the Jubilee Te Deum, <a href="#page_248">248-250</a>;</li>
+  <li>the procession after the service, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>;</li>
+  <li>the reception at the Palace, <a href="#page_251">251-253</a>;</li>
+  <li>the children's f&ecirc;te in Hyde Park, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Rosebery's ball, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a>;</li>
+  <li>the Palace ball, <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_257">257</a>;</li>
+  <li>receives the Jubilee Medal, <a href="#page_257">257</a>;</li>
+
+  <li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_415" title="pg 415"> </a></li>
+  <li>the Naval Review, <a href="#page_259">259-264</a>;</li>
+  <li>aboard the Iphig&eacute;nie, <a href="#page_261">261-263</a>;</li>
+  <li>skating, <a href="#page_266">266</a>;</li>
+  <li>funeral service for the German Emperor, <a href="#page_267">267</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Smiths' political reception, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>;</li>
+  <li>musicales, <a href="#page_270">270-273</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a>;</li>
+  <li>meets Princess Mary, <a href="#page_275">275</a>;</li>
+  <li>sightseeing, <a href="#page_276">276-278</a>;</li>
+  <li>christens a torpilleur, <a href="#page_278">278</a>;</li>
+  <li>races at Ascot, <a href="#page_279">279</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, <a href="#page_280">280-282</a>;</li>
+  <li>death of the Emperor Frederick, <a href="#page_282">282</a>;</li>
+  <li>dines with the Lord Mayor, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_284">284</a>;</li>
+  <li>production of a play by Berquin, <a href="#page_284">284-286</a>;</li>
+  <li>decides to go to Scotland, <a href="#page_286">286</a>;</li>
+  <li>the journey to Edinburgh, <a href="#page_287">287</a>;</li>
+  <li>sightseeing in Edinburgh, <a href="#page_287">287</a>, <a href="#page_288">288</a>;</li>
+  <li>arrives at Oban, <a href="#page_288">288</a>;</li>
+  <li>Scottish tartans, <a href="#page_289">289</a>;</li>
+  <li>by sea to Arishaig, <a href="#page_290">290</a>, <a href="#page_291">291</a>;</li>
+  <li>stays at Inveraylort, <a href="#page_291">291-295</a>;</li>
+  <li>returns to London, <a href="#page_296">296</a>;</li>
+  <li>goes through Petticoat Lane with Canon Rogers, <a href="#page_298">298</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>;</li>
+  <li>the People's Palace, <a href="#page_300">300</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Court Ball, <a href="#page_300">300</a>, <a href="#page_301">301</a>;</li>
+  <li>the Shah's arrival by water, <a href="#page_301">301</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a>;</li>
+  <li>the luncheon party at Hatfield in the Shah's honour, <a href="#page_302">302-304</a>;</li>
+  <li>wedding of Princess Louise and the Duke of Fife, <a href="#page_305">305</a>;</li>
+  <li>skates at Hatfield, <a href="#page_306">306</a>, <a href="#page_307">307</a>;</li>
+  <li>and at Wimbledon, <a href="#page_307">307</a>;</li>
+  <li>attends a horse sale, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_309">309</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Windsor, <a href="#page_310">310-313</a>;</li>
+  <li>sees "Charlie's Aunt," <a href="#page_313">313</a>;</li>
+  <li>luncheon with the Empress Frederick, <a href="#page_314">314</a>;</li>
+  <li>with Lady Northcote at the Opera, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_315">315</a>;</li>
+  <li>the children's comedy, <a href="#page_315">315</a> <em>et seq.</em>;</li>
+  <li>formal entry of the German Emperor William II. into London, <a href="#page_323">323</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>;</li>
+  <li>reception of the Emperor and Empress, <a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a>;</li>
+  <li>Garden Party at Marlborough House, <a href="#page_326">326</a>;</li>
+  <li>goes to the luncheon at Hatfield for the German Emperor, <a href="#page_328">328-332</a>;</li>
+  <li>places son in a French school, <a href="#page_332">332</a>;</li>
+  <li>sickness and death of Prince Eddie, <a href="#page_333">333</a> <em>et seq.</em>;</li>
+  <li>visits the British Museum, <a href="#page_339">339</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits the Tecks, <a href="#page_340">340-342</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits "Venice," <a href="#page_343">343</a>;</li>
+  <li>excursion to Herkomer's studio, <a href="#page_344">344-346</a>;</li>
+  <li>opens the bazaar, <a href="#page_346">346</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a>;</li>
+  <li>gives a dinner of organists, <a href="#page_348">348</a>;</li>
+  <li>arranges a "toy symphony," <a href="#page_350">350-352</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Italian Embassy, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a>;</li>
+  <li>the Salvation Army, <a href="#page_353">353</a>;</li>
+  <li>English women in politics, <a href="#page_355">355</a>;</li>
+  <li>dines with the Gladstones to meet the Archbishop of Canterbury, <a href="#page_355">355</a>, <a href="#page_356">356</a>;</li>
+  <li>band of the "Garde R&eacute;publicaine," <a href="#page_357">357</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits the Dufferins at Walmer Castle, <a href="#page_358">358-360</a>;</li>
+  <li>last outings, <a href="#page_361">361</a>;</li>
+  <li>leaves for the Tyrol, <a href="#page_361">361</a>;</li>
+  <li>returns to England, <a href="#page_362">362</a>;</li>
+  <li>says good-bye to Princess Mary and Princess May, <a href="#page_362">362</a>;</li>
+  <li>hears Mr. Gladstone's speech on Ireland, <a href="#page_363">363</a>;</li>
+  <li>farewell visits, <a href="#page_363">363</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>;</li>
+  <li>farewell dinner for M. Waddington at the Mansion House, <a href="#page_364">364-367</a>;</li>
+  <li>last visit to Windsor, <a href="#page_368">368</a>, <a href="#page_369">369</a>;</li>
+  <li>last Drawing-room, <a href="#page_369">369</a>;</li>
+  <li>farewell audience from Queen Victoria, <a href="#page_370">370-372</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the French bazaar, <a href="#page_373">373</a>, <a href="#page_374">374</a>;</li>
+  <li>a musical afternoon at Mlle. Humlicher's, <a href="#page_374">374</a>, <a href="#page_375">375</a>;</li>
+  <li>presented with a jewel, <a href="#page_375">375</a>, <a href="#page_376">376</a>;</li>
+  <li>entertains Princess Mary and Princess May, <a href="#page_377">377</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a>;</li>
+
+  <li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_416" title="pg 416"> </a></li>
+  <li>visits Princess Louise and Alma Tadema, <a href="#page_379">379</a>;</li>
+  <li>Easter Service in Westminster Abbey, <a href="#page_379">379</a>, <a href="#page_380">380</a>;</li>
+  <li>in the Temple Church, Turkish Embassy, <a href="#page_380">380</a>;</li>
+  <li>departure from London, <a href="#page_381">381-383</a>;</li>
+  <li>arrival in Paris, <a href="#page_383">383</a>;</li>
+  <li>hears the Wagner operas at Bayreuth, <a href="#page_384">384</a>, <a href="#page_385">385</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits Mary de Bunsen, <a href="#page_386">386</a>;</li>
+  <li>goes to the opera in Wiesbaden, <a href="#page_386">386</a>, <a href="#page_387">387</a>;</li>
+  <li>received by the Empress Frederick at Cronberg, <a href="#page_387">387-390</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Cowes, <a href="#page_391">391</a> <em>et seq.</em>;</li>
+  <li>meets the Prince and Princess of Wales at Cowes, <a href="#page_393">393-395</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits the Empress Eug&eacute;nie, <a href="#page_395">395</a>, <a href="#page_396">396</a>;</li>
+  <li>aboard the Nahma, <a href="#page_397">397</a>;</li>
+  <li>a long audience with the Queen at Osborne, <a href="#page_397">397-400</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Waddington, Richard, <a href="#page_7">7</a> <em>et passim</em></li>
+
+<li>Waddington, M. William, report of his appointment as Ambassador to Vienna, <a href="#page_4">4</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>appointed Ambassador Extraordinary at Moscow to represent France at
+			the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_4">4-6</a>;</li>
+  <li>personnel of the Mission, <a href="#page_7">7</a>;</li>
+  <li>has an audience from the Emperor of Germany, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits Bismarck, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_21">21</a>;</li>
+  <li>received by Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_36">36</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the reception of the Arch Duke and Duchess Albert of Austria, <a href="#page_56">56-58</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_42">42</a> <em>et seq.</em>;</li>
+  <li>farewell audience with the Emperor, <a href="#page_99">99</a>;</li>
+  <li>studies the medals at the Museum in Petersburg, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a>;</li>
+  <li>his capacity for work, <a href="#page_122">122</a>;</li>
+  <li>visits the Ministre des Affaires Etrang&egrave;res at Stockholm, <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>;</li>
+  <li>received by the King of Sweden, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>;</li>
+  <li>examines the medals in the Museum at Copenhagen, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>;</li>
+  <li>dines with Gladstone, <a href="#page_168">168</a>;</li>
+  <li>entertained by Lord Granville, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a>;</li>
+  <li>shoots with Charles Monk, <a href="#page_172">172-174</a>;</li>
+  <li>audience with the Prince and Princess of Wales, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Windsor Castle, <a href="#page_191">191-193</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>;</li>
+  <li>goes to Paris, <a href="#page_198">198</a>;</li>
+  <li>meets old friends, <a href="#page_207">207</a>;</li>
+  <li>sees the Oxford and Cambridge boat race, <a href="#page_207">207</a>;</li>
+  <li>follows Sir Walter Raleigh's example, <a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a href="#page_208">208</a>;</li>
+  <li>goes to Paris, <a href="#page_208">208</a>;</li>
+  <li>talks with the Queen, <a href="#page_214">214</a>;</li>
+  <li>shoots at Knowsley, <a href="#page_229">229</a>;</li>
+  <li>talks with Lecky on Ireland, <a href="#page_229">229</a>;</li>
+  <li>dislike of dancing, <a href="#page_274">274</a>;</li>
+  <li>bids at a horse sale, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_309">309</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Windsor, <a href="#page_311">311</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a>;</li>
+  <li>dines at Mr. Murray's with Mr. Gladstone, <a href="#page_315">315</a>;</li>
+  <li>death of his mother, <em>n.</em>, <a href="#page_325">325</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the luncheon at Hatfield for the German Emperor, <a href="#page_328">328-332</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the funeral of Prince Eddie, <a href="#page_337">337</a>;</li>
+  <li>talks with Lady Salisbury, <a href="#page_346">346</a>;</li>
+  <li>given a farewell dinner at the Mansion House, <a href="#page_364">364-367</a>;</li>
+  <li>farewell visit to Windsor, <a href="#page_368">368</a>, <a href="#page_369">369</a>;</li>
+  <li>Directeur du Canal Suez, <a href="#page_382">382</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Wagner, Mdme., <a href="#page_389">389</a></li>
+
+<li>Wagner, Richard, <a href="#page_345">345</a></li>
+
+<li>Wagram, Princesse de, on Boulanger, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Waldemar de Danemark, Prince, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Wales, Prince and Princess of, <a href="#page_37">37</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>receive the Waddingtons, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a>;</li>
+  <li>entertain at Sandringham, <a href="#page_184">184-186;</a></li>
+
+  <li><a class="pagenum break" id="page_417" title="pg 417"> </a></li>
+  <li>at Buckingham Palace, <a href="#page_195">195</a>;</li>
+  <li>in House of Lords, <a href="#page_201">201</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the ball given by the Artillery Corps, <a href="#page_202">202</a>;</li>
+  <li>Drawing-room, <a href="#page_203">203</a>;</li>
+  <li>visit to Ireland, <a href="#page_210">210</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the opening of Parliament, <a href="#page_236">236-238</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Opera, <a href="#page_243">243</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Jubilee Te Deum, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the children's f&ecirc;te, <a href="#page_253">253-255</a>;</li>
+  <li>driving, <a href="#page_276">276</a>;</li>
+  <li>open the Court Ball, <a href="#page_300">300</a>, <a href="#page_301">301</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Hatfield, <a href="#page_303">303</a>, <a href="#page_304">304</a>, <a href="#page_329">329-331</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the children's comedy, <a href="#page_320">320-322</a>;</li>
+  <li>their popularity, <a href="#page_327">327</a>;</li>
+  <li>death of Prince Eddie, <a href="#page_334">334</a>;</li>
+  <li>bid farewell to the Waddingtons, <a href="#page_363">363</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>;</li>
+  <li>at Cowes, <a href="#page_393">393</a> <em>et seq.</em></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Warren, Mrs., <a href="#page_396">396</a></li>
+
+<li>Warren, Sir Charles, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Wantage, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_358">358</a></li>
+
+<li>Warsoe, M., <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Waru, military attach&eacute;, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a></li>
+
+<li>Wellington, Lord, <a href="#page_358">358</a></li>
+
+<li>Westminster, Duchess of, <a href="#page_274">274</a></li>
+
+<li>White, Harry, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li>
+
+<li>White, Muriel, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a></li>
+
+<li>Whitehouse, Harry, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a></li>
+
+<li>Wilhemi, <a href="#page_345">345</a></li>
+
+<li>William I., Emperor, gives an audience to M. Waddington, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>death, <a href="#page_266">266</a>;</li>
+  <li>funeral service, <a href="#page_267">267</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>William II., Emperor, as Crown Prince, <a href="#page_267">267</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>State Banquet for, <a href="#page_323">323</a>;</li>
+  <li>formal entry into London, <a href="#page_323">323</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Opera, <a href="#page_325">325</a>;</li>
+  <li>receives at Buckingham Palace, <a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a>;</li>
+  <li>goes to the Lord Mayor's Banquet, <a href="#page_327">327</a>;</li>
+  <li>rides in the Row, <a href="#page_327">327</a>;</li>
+  <li>given a luncheon at Hatfield, <a href="#page_328">328-331</a>;</li>
+  <li>returns to Germany, <a href="#page_331">331</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Williams, Florence, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_348">348</a></li>
+
+<li>Wilson, Sir Rivers, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Wimborne, Lord, <a href="#page_354">354</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a></li>
+
+<li>Wladimir, Grand Duchess, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Wladimir, Grand Duke, at the coronation of his brother, Emperor Alexander, <a href="#page_66">66</a>;
+  <ul class="none">
+  <li>at the Court ball, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>;</li>
+  <li>his care for the Emperor, <a href="#page_77">77</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the Palace ball, <a href="#page_86">86</a>;</li>
+  <li>at the revue, <a href="#page_103">103</a></li>
+  </ul>
+  </li>
+
+<li>Wolff, Johannes, <a href="#page_270">270-272</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li>
+
+<li>Wolseley, General, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li>Wormser, <a href="#page_314">314</a></li>
+
+<li>Worontzoff, Count, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a></li>
+
+<li>Wurts, George, <a href="#page_120">120</a></li>
+
+<li>Wyckham, Col., <a href="#page_147">147</a></li>
+
+<li>Wyndham, <a href="#page_286">286</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>X</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Xenia, Grand Duchess, <a href="#page_45">45</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Y</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>York, Duke of, <a href="#page_363">363</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a>, <a href="#page_397">397</a></li>
+
+<li>Yves, <a href="#page_190">190</a></li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Z</li>
+
+<li>&nbsp;</li>
+
+<li>Zuylen, Mdme. de, <a href="#page_274">274</a></li>
+
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+
+<div id="fn1"><p><a href="#r1">[1]</a> A: W. here and throughout these letters refers to Mme. Waddington's
+husband, M. William Henry Waddington, "G. K. S.," "H. L. K.," "A.
+J. K." and "J. K.," to whom the letters are addressed, refer to Mme. Waddington's
+sisters, Mrs. Eugene Schuyler, Miss Henrietta L. King, and
+the late Miss Anne J. King, and to her sister-in-law, the late Mrs. Cornelius
+L. King.</p></div>
+
+<div id="fn2"><p><a href="#r2">[2]</a> After the Berlin Congress and the Foreign Office.</p></div>
+
+<div id="fn3"><p><a href="#r3">[3]</a> Richard Waddington, Mme. Waddington's brother-in-law, now Senator
+of the Seine Inf&eacute;rieure.</p></div>
+
+<div id="fn4"><p><a href="#r4">[4]</a> A: Petrofski.</p></div>
+
+<div id="fn5"><p><a href="#r5">[5]</a> Teases.</p></div>
+
+<div id="fn6"><p><a href="#r6">[6]</a>  MacMahon, President at that time of the French Republic.</p></div>
+
+<div id="fn7"><p><a href="#r7">[7]</a> Now cardinal.</p></div>
+
+<div id="fn8"><p><a href="#r8">[8]</a> Lady Harcourt is a daughter of the late John Lothrop Motley, the historian.</p></div>
+
+<div id="fn9"><p><a href="#r9">[9]</a>  Empress Eug&eacute;nie, widow of Napoleon III., who has lived in England
+for many years.</p></div>
+
+<div id="fn10"><p><a href="#r10">[10]</a> The Duke of Bedford.</p></div>
+
+<div id="fn11"><p><a href="#r11">[11]</a> Where he had been summoned on account of the death of his mother.</p></div>
+
+<div id="fn12"><p><a href="#r12">[12]</a> M. Waddington died in 1894. Hence the interruption in the series of
+Madame Waddington's letters from 1893 until 1897.</p></div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, by 
+Mary King Waddington
+
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+</body>
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+Project Gutenberg's Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, by Mary King Waddington
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Letters of a Diplomat's Wife
+       1883-1900
+
+Author: Mary King Waddington
+
+Release Date: February 10, 2012 [EBook #38825]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Wayne Hammond and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+    [Illustration: Mary King Waddington]
+
+    [Illustration: Signature: Mary King Waddington]
+
+
+
+
+    LETTERS OF A
+    DIPLOMAT'S WIFE
+
+    1883-1900
+
+    BY
+    MARY KING WADDINGTON
+
+    ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS
+    AND PHOTOGRAPHS
+
+    SMITH, ELDER & CO.
+    LONDON 1903
+
+
+
+
+    Copyright, 1903, by Charles Scribner's Sons
+    for the United States of America
+
+    Printed by the Trow Directory, Printing and Bookbinding Company
+    New York, U. S. A.
+
+
+
+
+    INTRODUCTORY NOTE
+
+    BY THE COLLECTOR OF THE LETTERS
+
+
+Mary Alsop King Waddington is a daughter of the late Charles King,
+President of Columbia College in the City of New York from 1849 to 1864,
+and a granddaughter of Rufus King, the second Minister sent to England
+by the United States after the adoption of the Constitution.
+
+Miss King was educated in this country. In 1871, after the death of her
+father, she went, with her mother and sisters, to live in France, and in
+1874 became the wife of M. William Henry Waddington.
+
+M. Waddington was born in Normandy, France, in 1826. His grandfather was
+an Englishman who had established cotton manufactories in France, and
+had become a naturalised French citizen. The grandson, however, was
+educated first in a Paris _lycee_, then at Rugby, and later at Trinity
+College, Cambridge. As an under-graduate he rowed in the Cambridge boat
+in the University race of 1849. Soon after leaving the University, M.
+Waddington returned to France and entered public life. In 1871 he was
+elected a representative from the Department of the Aisne to the
+National Assembly, and two years afterward was appointed Minister of
+Public Instruction in place of M. Jules Simon. In January, 1876, he was
+elected a senator for the Department of the Aisne, and two months later
+again became Minister of Public Instruction. In December, 1877, he
+accepted the portfolio of Minister of Foreign Affairs.
+
+M. Waddington was the first plenipotentiary of France to the Congress of
+Berlin in 1878. On February 4, 1879, he became President of the Council
+(Premier), retiring the following December. In the winter of 1879-1880
+he refused the offer of the London Embassy. In May, 1883, he was sent as
+Ambassador-Extraordinary to represent France at the coronation of the
+Czar Alexander III at Moscow, and upon his return from Russia was
+appointed Ambassador at the Court of St. James to succeed M. Tissot. He
+held this post until 1893, and died in Paris in the following year.
+
+Mme. Waddington accompanied her husband on his missions to both England
+and Russia. The letters collected in this volume were written during the
+period of her husband's diplomatic service to describe to her sisters
+the personages and incidents of her official life. About a fourth part
+of their number have lately been published in _Scribner's Magazine_;
+with this exception, the letters are now given to the public for the
+first time.
+
+    #Tompkins McIlvaine.#
+
+    #New York#, April 1, 1903.
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+    #Portrait of Madame Waddington#            _Frontispiece_
+
+                                                               FACING
+                                                                 PAGE
+
+    #Colonel Benckendorff#                                         34
+    _From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg._
+
+    #The Emperor Crowning the Empress. Church de
+    l'Assomption#                                                  66
+
+    #Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes#                        68
+
+    #Grand Duc Wladimir#                                          104
+    _From a photograph by Bergamasco, St. Petersburg._
+
+    #M. William Waddington#                                       142
+    _From a copyright photograph by Russell & Son._
+
+    #The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London#                     168
+
+    #The Dining-room of the French Embassy, London,
+    Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries#                    172
+
+    #J. J. Jusserand, Counsellor of the French Embassy#           178
+    _Recently appointed French Ambassador to the United States.
+     From a photograph by Walery, Paris._
+
+    #The Duchess of Cambridge#                                    180
+    _From a photograph by Walery, London._
+
+    #Windsor Castle#                                              192
+
+    #M. and Mme. Waddington and Their Son#                        198
+    _From a photograph by Cesar, Paris._
+
+    #The Salon of the French Embassy in London#                   210
+
+    #Lady Salisbury#                                              216
+
+    #Knowsley Hall#                                               228
+    _The Earl of Derby's place at Prescot, Lancashire._
+
+    #The Late Earl of Derby#                                      232
+    _From a photograph by Franz Baum, London._
+
+    #The Countess Fanny Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassadress#       240
+    _From a photograph by Walery, London._
+
+    #Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the
+    State Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887#                     250
+    _From a photograph, copyright, by Hughes & Mullins, Ryde, England._
+
+    #The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the
+    Uniform Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration,
+    London, June, 1887#                                           254
+    _From a photograph by Loescher & Petsch, Berlin._
+
+    #Comtesse de Florian#                                         262
+    _From a photograph by Walery, London._
+
+    #Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the
+    Shah of Persia, July 8, 1889#                                 304
+    _From a photograph by Russell & Sons, London._
+
+    #Lord Salisbury#                                              306
+    _From a photograph by Lambert Weston & Son, Dover._
+
+    #A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy#                 320
+    _From a photograph by Barker & Pragnell, London._
+
+    #The Empress Frederick, Wearing the Order of the
+    Black Eagle#                                                  388
+    _The last portrait of the Empress by the artist Angeli._
+
+    #Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of
+    Wight#                                                        392
+    _From a photograph by Broderick._
+
+
+
+
+    LETTERS
+    OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE
+
+
+
+
+    PART I
+
+    THE CORONATION OF THE CZAR
+
+
+    _To G. K. S_.
+
+    #Paris#,
+    31, Rue Dumont d'Urville,
+    March 15, 1883.
+
+Our breakfast at the English Embassy was most interesting. I began by
+refusing on account of my mourning, but Lord Lyons wrote me a nice note
+saying that there would be no one but the Leon Says and Mr. and Mrs.
+Gladstone, so I accepted. I was very anxious to see Mr. Gladstone.
+
+We had a pretty little breakfast upstairs in the small dining-room, and
+the talk at table was most interesting. I thought Mrs. Gladstone looked
+older than her husband. He of course did most of the talking. He has a
+fine voice, bright, keen, dark eyes, holds himself very erect, and
+apparently knows everything about everything. When the men were smoking
+after breakfast I had quite a talk with Mrs. Gladstone, who told me
+about the murder of Lord Frederick Cavendish. She said her husband heard
+it at a big London party, and had to go and tell Lady Frederick. Mr.
+Gladstone was more upset by the whole thing (and the having to tell the
+unfortunate wife) than she had ever seen him. Il y avait de quoi, for
+even here in Paris, where _outside_ questions don't trouble them very
+much, there was great excitement when the news came.
+
+I had a nice talk with Plunkett, who congratulated me on W.'s[1]
+appointment as Ambassador to Vienna. I told him there was no truth in
+the report (they had offered it to W., but he won't hear of it), and I
+think he is quite right. He has no particular _attaches_ at Vienna. He
+knows German well, but doesn't speak it absolutely perfectly, and hasn't
+really the social talents that one needs in Vienna. They ought to send a
+dashing general, or a courtier, not a serious savant.
+
+[1] W. here and throughout these letters refers to Mme. Waddington's
+husband, M. William Henry Waddington, "G. K. S.," "H. L. K.," "A. J. K."
+and "J. K.," to whom the letters are addressed, refer to Mme.
+Waddington's sisters, Mrs. Eugene Schuyler, Miss Henrietta L. King, and
+the late Miss Anne J. King, and to her sister-in-law, the late Mrs.
+Cornelius L. King.
+
+We certainly are leading different lives. I am wrapped in my fur coat,
+and driving in a shut carriage. Your tea in the garden sends a shiver
+through me. It sounds quite romantic having the son of the "Roi des
+Montagnes" to breakfast. I wonder if I shall ever see Athens; W. says
+when I do that I will never care again for Rome; that colouring and
+ruins are far superior in Greece. I almost think in that case I would
+rather remain under my present impression of dear, beautiful Rome, not
+quite like our American friend, who thought "the Colosseum was pretty,
+but she liked the Court-House at St. Louis better."
+
+    #Paris#,
+    Sunday, March 18, 1883.
+
+I will write a little this morning, Dear--I am just back from l'Etoile.
+I have had rather an agitated week, and here is my news, good--bad--I
+don't know myself. W. is going as Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow to
+represent France at the Coronation of the Emperor Alexander. It was a
+"bolt from the blue" to us. I will tell you from the beginning. We went
+to ride as usual Thursday morning, but rather earlier than usual (9.30).
+When we came home Mdme. Hubert told us we hadn't been gone ten minutes,
+when le Ministre des Affaires Etrangeres (Challemel-Lacour) came to see
+W., was much discomposed at not finding him, and told Mdme. H. he would
+come back at 11. He didn't reappear, but one of the young attaches did,
+with a note from Challemel begging W. to come and see him directly after
+breakfast. We couldn't think what he wanted, but we both made up our
+minds it was to insist on the Vienna Embassy. I protested, and I think
+W. would not have taken it.
+
+I went out in the afternoon with Anne to try on a dress at Redfern's,
+and just as we were coming away W. appeared. He had seen the carriage at
+the door and knew he would find us. He looked rather preoccupied, so I
+said, "You are not surely going to Vienna?"
+
+"No, not to Vienna, probably to Russia, for the Coronation."
+
+I was too bewildered at first to take it in, and I must frankly say I
+was wretched. Of course he asked 24 hours to think it over, though the
+Minister urged him very much to accept at once. Challemel also wishes me
+to go, says a woman gives more eclat to an Embassy. Of course it will be
+a magnificent sight, but I am a perfect poltroon--I am so afraid they
+will take advantage of that crowd to blow up everybody. However, if that
+should happen it would be better to be blown up together, but I really
+am nervous (I am not usually such a coward, but Russian Nihilists and
+dynamiters are terrible elements to contend with), and wish they hadn't
+asked him to go.
+
+Of course it is a great honour and compliment to W.'s personal position,
+and I have given no opinion, but I don't feel happy at all. I have
+always said that I would never try to influence my husband's actions
+(public) in any way, and I suppose I have kept to that as well as most
+women do who marry public men, but I should like to put a decided veto
+now. I will keep you au courant of the decision.
+
+    March 20th.
+
+Well, Dear, it is quite decided. W. accepts to go to Moscow, and takes
+me with him. He consulted his brother and his friends and all told him
+he could not refuse. As long as they didn't send a soldier (W. himself
+would have asked Marechal MacMahon to go, if he had been at the Foreign
+Office), he was "tout indique."[2] It seems all the other Powers are
+going to send Princes--Spain, the Duc de Montpensier; England, the Duke
+of Edinburgh; Italy, the Duc d'Aoste, etc.
+
+[2] After the Berlin Congress and the Foreign Office.
+
+We are to start somewhere about the 8th or 10th of May. W. is busy now
+composing his Mission. Of course everybody wants to go. It seems such an
+undertaking. We had a nice ride this morning--various people riding
+with us, and all talking about the Coronation. I overheard one timid old
+gentleman saying to W., "Vous emmenez votre femme? Vous avez tort; on ne
+sait pas ce qui peut arriver"--not very reassuring.
+
+    April 1st.
+
+My Dear, my letters will now become monotonous, as I have only one
+idea--the Mission. All the arrangements are being made, such an affair.
+W. has sent off a man to Moscow to see about a house big enough to hold
+all the party, with ballroom, and large dining-room We are 9 people--W.
+and I; Comte de Pontecoulant, Ministre Plenipotentiaire (W.'s ancien
+Chef de Cabinet); General Pittie (General de Division, chef de la maison
+militaire du President de la Republique); Colonel Comte de Sesmaisons,
+commandant les 6eme hussards; Francois de Corcelle, Secretaire
+d'Ambassade; Commandant Fayet (de la maison du President--Jules Grevy);
+Richard Waddington, Depute, Capitaine dans l'armee territoriale; Robert
+Calmon, lieutenant dans l'armee territoriale. L'uniforme est absolument
+necessaire en Russie.
+
+We have three servants--W.'s valet Joseph and my two maids Adelaide and
+Mdme. Hubert. All the gentlemen have their servants. Then there is
+Pierson, the huissier from the Quai d'Orsay (you know whom I mean, the
+big man who wears a gilt chain, announces the people, and writes down
+names, etc.), two cooks with one or two garcons de cuisine; 3 coachmen,
+Hubert of course, and two Englishmen. One, Mr. Leroy, such a magnificent
+person, came this morning to see W. He has already represente on several
+occasions, and driven gala carriages, etc. He seems graciously inclined
+to go with us (with very high wages, and making his conditions--will
+drive only the Ambassador and Ambassadress in the gala carriage, etc.).
+That will necessitate very delicate negotiations with Hubert, who also
+wishes to drive only the Ambassador and me. However, as he has never
+driven a gala carriage, and they are very heavy, unwieldy vehicles to
+manage, I think he must waive his claim.
+
+    April 10th.
+
+There has also been a long consultation about horses, how many for the
+gala carriage. When Marechal MacMahon went as Ambassador Extraordinary
+to the Emperor of Germany's Coronation he had six horses and running
+footmen (it seems there must be six or two--four are not allowed. Four
+would be too sporting--not serious enough). We have four enormous
+footmen, and one ordinary sized one for every-day use--2 gala carriages,
+and a coupe d'Orsay, which must be painted dark blue with white stripes,
+our colours.
+
+    April 12th.
+
+We are getting on slowly. The horse question is settled--no one has more
+than two, so we take 9 enormous carrossiers. Hawes is commissioned to
+get them. They could not be found anywhere in France. I forget the exact
+height (as big as they make them), but he promises to get them from
+England, or the Luxembourg, where it seems they have a special breed of
+enormous, heavy coach horses.
+
+We had a most satisfactory interview this morning with M. Lhermite, the
+head man of the great restaurant, Potel & Chabot. W. had been rather
+bothered about a head man, or major domo, who could take charge of the
+whole household. Our Joseph is not very brilliant--he does W.'s service,
+and can look after an ordinary household, but would not be at all up to
+the mark in this case. Lhermite heard that W. was looking for someone,
+so he came and volunteered to go with us, and superintend everything. He
+was so well dressed and had such good manners that W. rather demurred,
+and thought he was above the place; however Lhermite pressed it very
+much, and wound up by saying, "J'ai ete cuisinier moi-meme, Monsieur,
+personne ne vous servira mieux que moi." So it was settled, and he has
+full powers to engage cooks, scullions, etc.
+
+The man who went to Moscow has just sent us the plan of the house which
+he has found. It seems large and handsome, a good entrance, marble
+staircase, large ballroom and dining-room, and sufficient bedrooms. It
+calls itself "Maison Klein," not a palace; and is evidently the house of
+a rich Jew.
+
+    Sunday, May 6th.
+
+I am glad to have a day of rest, Dear. I didn't even get up for church.
+The standing at the dressmaker's is something awful. Yesterday I tried
+12 dresses (finished), 6 at Delannoy's before breakfast, and 6 at
+Philippe's afterwards. They are all handsome--I think the Court dresses
+will be handsome. The principal one for the day of the Coronation is
+sapphire blue satin embroidered all round the train (3 metres long),
+with a beautiful wreath of flowers in chenille, and silk, and gold and
+silver leaves; very showy, in fact rather clinquant (not at all like
+me), but they said I must have "des toilettes a effet qui seraient
+remarquees." The under-dress is salmon pink satin, the front all covered
+with flowers to match the embroidery. I shall wear blue feathers (short
+ones) in my hair. I am happy to say that the regulation white waving
+plumes of the English Court are not de rigueur in Russia. The other
+train is a pale pink satin with raised dark red flowers and velvet
+leaves, all the front my old point de Venise flounces which look
+handsome. I suppose I shall take about 18 dresses in all.
+
+I have just had a nice visit from Prince Orloff, Russian Ambassador
+here, who is a great friend of ours, and who was very anxious from the
+first that I should go. I confided to him that I was very nervous and
+uncomfortable. I don't mind so much in the day time when I am seeing
+quantities of people, and interested in the preparations; but I don't
+sleep, and have visions of the Kremlin being blown up, and all sorts of
+horrors. As Richard[3] goes with us too, I have made W. appoint a
+guardian for Francis, as Henrietta and Anne could hardly bring up a
+Frenchman, and after all we may none of us ever come back.
+
+[3] Richard Waddington, Mme. Waddington's brother-in-law, now Senator of
+the Seine Inferieure.
+
+Henrietta was reduced to tears this morning when W. gave her the key of
+his secretaire, and said his will and last directions were there, in
+case anything happened to him--cheerful preparations for a festive
+journey.
+
+    Tuesday, May 8, 1883.
+
+Our boxes and cases are being packed, and the house is a
+curiosity--crowded with every conceivable thing. My two maids (I take
+Mdme. Hubert too, as Adelaide is not very strong, and if she gave out I
+should be in a bad way) are much taken up with their outfit. They each
+have two sets of new things, a blue serge costume and coat for
+travelling, and a black silk for their gala occasions. Pontecoulant is
+always teasing Mdme. Hubert, and asking if "ses toilettes sont pretes."
+
+This morning I saw the 9 gigantic horses which were paraded under the
+windows. They started to-night, as they must rest at Berlin. M. Lhermite
+is a treasure. He also starts to-night with his cooks and provisions of
+all kinds. W. and Pontecoulant gave him all their instructions, and then
+he came for mine. I told him I must have my maids in the room next to
+me, and as we had a plan of the house, it is quite easy. I have a
+fair-sized bedroom and dressing-room (which he will arrange as a sort of
+boudoir) on the court (no living rooms are on the street), and the maids
+a large room opening out of the dressing-room. He is eminently
+practical; takes charge of the whole personnel, will arrange a sort of
+dormitory for all the men servants; will see that they are ready in
+time, clean and well turned out.
+
+Pontecoulant, who is also very practical, overlooks that part of the
+business; also the stables, and Mr. Leroy and Lhermite will report to
+him every morning. Leroy has also just been in, much pleased with his
+gala carriage and liveries. Hubert is beaming, and most particular about
+his lace jabot and ruffles. I wonder how they will all ever settle down
+to our quiet life again.
+
+    Thursday, 10th.
+
+I will finish this afternoon, Dear. I am ready to start, dressed in my
+travelling dress, dark blue cloth, with a long coat lined with red
+satin, and a black hat with blue feathers (I haven't got on the coat and
+hat yet). There has been such a procession of people all day, and great
+vans to carry off the luggage. I have been rather bothered about my
+jewels--how to carry them. I have taken everything the family own.
+Anne's necklace, with some extra stones I had, has been converted into a
+tiara. All the Russian women wear their National coiffure at the
+Coronation, the Kakoshnik. As that is very high, studded with jewels,
+any ordinary arrangement of stars and feathers would look insignificant.
+Freddy, who is an authority on such matters, advised me to concentrate
+all my efforts on the tiara--he also suggested ropes of pearls
+(artificial) but I couldn't make up my mind to that. Chemin, the
+jeweller, was very anxious I should "louer" a sort of breastplate of
+diamonds--but on the whole I preferred taking less--merely mine and the
+sisters'. What I shall do if they are stolen or lost I am sure I don't
+know. I don't care to carry them myself in a bag, as I never by any
+chance carry my bag, I should certainly leave it somewhere; and I don't
+like to give it to the maids either, so I have put all the jewels in two
+trunks, scattered about the fond, wrapped up with silk stockings, etc.
+
+I have given my last instructions to Nounou, and a nice young coachman
+who comes to replace Hubert in our absence, and also provided a surprise
+for baby in the shape of a large train, which will distract him the
+first days. We saw also this morning the detective who goes with us. He
+is one of those who always accompany the foreign Princes who pass
+through Paris, and is said to know well all the great nihilist leaders
+(all of whom he says will be at the Coronation). He has two ordinary
+policemen with him. They go of course on the train with us, and never
+lose sight of us. I shall feel rather like a distinguished criminal
+being tracked across Europe.
+
+Pontecoulant is very funny over Philippe the coiffeur, who presented
+himself at the Quai d'Orsay, and insisted upon being included in the
+suite (consequently travelling free of expense on the special trains,
+etc., with us). He really isn't my coiffeur--I never have anyone except
+Georges from time to time, but I daresay I shall be glad to have him. He
+said to Pontecoulant, "Monsieur le Comte comprend bien qu'il faut que je
+pose le diademe de Madame l'Ambassadrice le jour du Couronnement;"
+however he has gained his point, and Madame l'Ambassadrice takes her own
+coiffeur with her, as well as her two maids.
+
+Well, Dear, we are going in an hour, and I must try and reason with
+myself, and not be the arrant coward I really feel like.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Kaiserhof, Berlin#,
+    Saturday, May 12th, 1883.
+
+Here we are, having accomplished our journey so far most comfortably. We
+arrived last night about 9, and this morning I am unpacking a little,
+and settling myself, as we shall stay four or five days. Our departure
+from the Gare du Nord Thursday night was a curiosity. We got rather
+early to the station, as W. was preoccupied with the baggage, and
+besides there were last words to say to all the people who came to see
+us off. Henrietta, rather tearful, came with us to the station--Francis
+was so engrossed with his new railway train that was careering round on
+beautiful green rails in his father's study, that he was quite
+indifferent. The whole quai was filled with boxes and trunks labelled
+"Waddington, Moscow," and when you think that all the soldiers took
+their saddles and trappings of all kinds, and what the stable alone
+represented, 2 enormous gala carriages, one coupe d'Orsay, and all the
+heavy harness and servants' liveries, you can imagine what an excitement
+there was until everything was put on board.
+
+We started, however, fairly punctually--W. and I had a lit-salon, with
+cabinet de toilette; the two maids and W.'s man next door, and
+Sesmaisons and Francois de Corcelle (the only two who came with us, the
+rest of the Mission joins us Tuesday at Berlin), had their coupe next to
+ours. There were all sorts of last directions to be given to
+Pontecoulant, and to poor Henrietta, who remains in charge of Francis.
+
+I slept pretty well all night, as you know I am a good traveller, and
+about 7 Adelaide came in to arrange me a little, as we were to breakfast
+at Cologne (where we were due at 8 o'clock) with our consul there, and
+also the consul at Duesseldorf, who is rather a friend of W.'s. We had a
+very good little breakfast in the private room, and when we started
+again, the Chef-de-Gare coming at the last moment to conduct us to our
+coupe, there was much bowing and scraping to Monsieur l'Ambassadeur and
+Mdme. l'Ambassadrice. We made quite an excitement at the station, and
+all the people who were coming and going in the numerous trains that
+passed through had their heads out of the windows to see what was going
+on. They had filled our coupe with papers of all kinds (German),
+illustrated and political, also a large bouquet for me.
+
+We dined at Hanover, not in a private room this time, but at a round
+table at one end of the large room. Who do you think came to see me? Mr.
+Joy; he had seen in the papers that we were to pass through, so he took
+himself down to the station to see if he could see us. I introduced him
+to W.--we had only time for a little talk, as he came rather late. He
+also brought papers and a magazine or two, so we are well supplied with
+literature for the present.
+
+When we arrived here at the station we found M. de Courcel, our
+Ambassador in Berlin, waiting for us with all his staff. He drove us at
+once in his carriage to the hotel, and said he would come in again an
+hour later and tell W. about his audiences, etc. We have beautiful
+rooms, a large salon looking on the street, dining-room, two good-sized
+bedrooms and a very good ante-room (where by the way Pierson, with his
+chain and sword and dress clothes, is already installed. When I came out
+of the salon just now he was there, and I rather felt as if I was back
+at the Quai d'Orsay, and he was announcing my visitors).
+
+While we were talking to Courcel last night one of the hotel servants
+came in to say--would I go for one moment to speak to the maids, he
+couldn't make out what they wanted. I did go, but merely to tell these
+ladies that I would thank them to get along as well as they could, and
+to find a polygot waiter, or someone to translate for them; that I
+certainly was not going to look out for them, and they had better try
+and learn a little German.
+
+Courcel says the Emperor, Prince Imperial, and Bismarck all want to see
+W.--he also warns him that Bismarck is in an execrable humor. I don't
+think W. minds that very much. He is a very cool gentleman himself, and
+I imagine he will say all he wants to to the great man.
+
+    10-30.
+
+W. and I went for a walk before breakfast to the Pariser Platz to see
+the outside of the French Embassy; it looks big and imposing. We came
+home through "Unter den Linden." Berlin has much improved, and has much
+more the air of a capital than when I first saw it a great many years
+ago. Of course I was much struck with the quantities of soldiers one
+sees in the streets. The officers are a fine lot of men, but, like
+ramrods, so stiff; and when they are walking two or three together take
+up the whole pavement.
+
+Sesmaisons and Corcelle breakfasted with us--Sesmaisons is delighted to
+be back in Berlin. He was military attache there at the time of the
+Berlin Congress, when St. Vallier was Ambassador, and has many friends.
+M. de Courcel came in just as we were finishing, with a long list for
+W., his audience cards, invitations, etc. Then came George de Bunsen
+with his wife and daughters. I had never seen the ladies of the family,
+and was glad to make their acquaintance. They were very friendly, and we
+made various engagements with them. M. de Bunsen I had seen before in
+France--he is quite charming, very good-looking, and not at all
+Prussian, so cosmopolitan, which is always most attractive.
+
+W. and I went out together and paid several visits, to the Embassy
+first, where we found Mdme. de Courcel. The rooms are large and
+handsome, with good pictures and splendid tapestries. We took a turn in
+the Thiergarten, and the Jardin Zooelogique (where we saw an enormous
+yellow lion--a terrible beast, handsome, too). W. then went to see
+Hatzfeldt (Foreign Minister), who was very amiable, but said nothing in
+particular--none of Bismarck's people ever do.
+
+We dined early at the Embassy with all the personnel. The dinner was
+good and handsome, plenty of servants, lights, flowers--everything in
+very good style. While the men were smoking Mdme. de Courcel and I
+talked. She told me some of her Berlin experiences, and how difficult
+her beginnings were, but I suppose they always must be until one has had
+time to look around a little. We have just come home, and after talking
+a little with the gentlemen I have left them to their cigars and papers,
+and am glad to be in my own quarters.
+
+The maids have had a delightful afternoon. They have found a gerant who
+speaks French, and who has taken them a little about Berlin, which they
+find "tres gentil." W. has his audience from the Emperor at one o'clock
+to-morrow in uniform. None of the ladies, Empress nor Princesses, are
+here, so I have nothing to do.
+
+    Sunday, May 13th.
+
+I didn't go out this morning, but wrote and read. The two gentlemen
+breakfasted with us as usual, and a little before one W. went off for
+his audience with the Emperor in full uniform, which is very becoming to
+him. (He hates it as it is so heavy, with all the thick gold embroidery,
+and he is very hot and uncomfortable.) The audience lasted about
+three-quarters of an hour. W. was astounded at the Emperor's appearance
+and conversation, said he was au courant of everything--he said among
+other things--"Ah, vous emmenez Mme. Waddington a Moscow? eh bien! moi,
+je n'envoie pas mon heritier," adding though immediately he didn't think
+there was any danger from the Nihilists this time.
+
+He had barely time to get home and out of his uniform when Lord and Lady
+Ampthill arrived. They were quite charming, both of them. He and I
+plunged into the old Roman days, where we knew him so well as Odo
+Russell. They are great favourites here, both at court and with their
+colleagues. He spoke a great deal about St. Vallier, said he was the
+best colleague he had ever had.
+
+At four W. started again to see Bismarck (not in uniform this time), and
+I drove out to the George Bunsens' to have tea. They have a pretty
+house. Theodore was also there, and we had a pleasant hour. They asked
+us to come in to-morrow after our dinner at the Embassy. When I got back
+I found W. smoking in a big arm-chair, quite pleased with his talk with
+Bismarck, who was most amiable, had at least no "crise de nerfs" while
+he was there. He said he was very frank, almost brutal, in his
+appreciations of other countries, and particularly of different public
+men whose views didn't coincide directly with his, but on the whole not
+too offensive. He kept him until his dinner was announced (at 5
+o'clock), and asked him to come and see him on his way back from Moscow,
+and give him his impressions; so apparently it is only from his own
+agents that he doesn't wish impressions. Do you remember C. writing to
+him, from the Hague, I think, the account of some manifestation or
+political crisis, and naturally saying what he thought about the matter;
+and the very curt answer he received from the Minister, saying he had
+asked for facts, and not for "personal appreciations." One would think
+that the opinion of the most ordinary agent on the spot would have a
+certain importance.
+
+    Tuesday, 15th.
+
+It is very warm--I have been out with Adelaide trying to get a light
+blouse, my cloth body is unbearable. Everything was shut yesterday, as
+it was Whit Monday. W. dined at the Palace at 5, Sesmaisons also. I went
+to the races with Mdme. de Courcel and some of the young men. It was
+rather amusing, a lovely day, about three quarters of an hour by train
+from Berlin. The public was not nearly so elegant as on a Paris
+race-course, but there were more pretty women, and quantities of stiff,
+arrogant officers (always en tenue).
+
+When we got back to the hotel at 7.30 we found W. at the door, just back
+from his dinner, so Francois de Corcelle and I dined tete-a-tete, and W.
+talked to us--said the dinner was good, small and easy. The Prince
+Imperial and Grand Duchess of Baden were both there. The Grand Duchess
+told W. that in a telegram received that morning from her mother (the
+Empress Augusta) she had said how much she regretted not seeing him,
+that she had always watched his career with great interest, and was very
+glad to see him coming to the front again.
+
+The Emperor talked about everything--France; England; the religious
+question in France; he believed French women of all classes were
+clerical, and under the influence of the priests, so naturally they
+could have no sympathy with a liberal government, "which is a pity, it
+is a mistake to have the women against you." We had an audience with the
+Prince Imperial after dinner, which was pleasant, but absolutely
+commonplace. He and all the Princes were in uniform, petite tenue.
+
+We finished our evening at the Bunsens', which was pleasant. W. was very
+glad to have a quiet talk with M. de Bunsen, who is most attractive,
+such a charming manner. This evening we have dined as usual at the
+French Embassy with quite a party, including Bleichroeder, an Israelite
+banker, bras droit of Bismarck, and therefore interesting. We came
+early, as all the rest of our Mission arrived to-night at 9 o'clock, and
+we wanted to see them. They all came up after supper, looking most
+cheerful, had had a very pleasant journey, rather warm in the middle of
+the day, and were quite game to see all they can of Berlin to-morrow, as
+we go on to Warsaw to-morrow night.
+
+    Wednesday, May 16th.
+
+We are starting this evening, Dear, so I will scratch a few lines to
+finish this very long epistle, and will send it from here. It is still
+very warm. I went out to see some of the pictures (how beautiful the
+Velasquez are) and the marbles of Pergamos, and Pontecoulant and I
+breakfasted together at the hotel; W. and Richard at the George
+Bunsens', who really have been as friendly and hospitable as possible.
+After breakfast we had various visits, and then Pontecoulant, Corcelle
+and I went for a last drive in the Thier-Garten. I hoped we should meet
+either the Emperor (I have never seen him) or the Prince Imperial, but
+we didn't. There were plenty of people riding and driving, as it was the
+fashionable day "Corso." We saw the Princess Frederick Charles in an
+open carriage with four horses, and a piqueur in front. The Court
+liveries are handsome, but sombre, black and silver. Everybody bowed and
+curtseyed, the officers saluting de front.
+
+We went round by the Zoo to show Pontecoulant the big lion. Pontecoulant
+was most amusing over their journey, and said he was nearly driven out
+of his mind the day before they started with all the people who came to
+see him. He says Philippe, the coiffeur, has never left him, that it
+won't be his fault if my diadem is not perfectly pose, and that he plied
+him with beer all along the route. He is here supping and living at the
+hotel with all our suite, and sent word to me this morning that he was
+at my disposition to make me a "coiffure de circonstance" for the night
+journey. What do you suppose it would have been?
+
+Pontecoulant had seen Henrietta and Francis the day he left, and had
+left orders at the Foreign Office that the Havas telegrams which will
+keep her au courant of our movements shall always be sent to her. All
+the personnel except W. and me dine at the Embassy to-night. I am not
+sorry to have a quiet evening. We leave at 11 to-night, and get to
+Alexandrownow about 7.30 to-morrow. That is the Russian frontier, and
+there we shall have some sort of official reception.
+
+W. has been riding these last two days with Sancy, the military attache,
+and that always does him good. I couldn't find any sort of silk blouse,
+so I trust it won't be very warm travelling to-night. When we cross the
+frontier I shall feel as if our journey had begun. Here we have lived so
+with the Embassy that I hardly feel as if I was abroad, only the cadre
+is different, and the Prussian uniforms a disagreeable reminder. I don't
+think it is an easy post to be Ambassador here, and I should think M. de
+Courcel's succession would be a very difficult one. He knows German
+well, and has always lived with diplomatists, but if they send a
+political man, I think he will have a hard time; though as Bismarck said
+to W. when they were talking about any possible war in Europe--"Je
+desire la paix, je suis un homme satisfait," which wasn't very pleasant
+for the French Ambassador to hear, as I suppose what has largely
+contributed to his satisfaction is the possession of Alsace-Lorraine.
+
+We have had our dinner, and W. smoked on the balcony, and we saw all the
+gentleman-servants, omnibuses and baggage start. We shall only go just
+in time to have 5 minutes talk on the platform with M. de Courcel, who
+is coming to say good-by. The gerant of the hotel has just been up to
+hope we were satisfied--would we telegraph when we came back, as of
+course he would give us the same rooms, and presented me with a large
+bouquet.
+
+Did I say that the Malagache Embassy was at the hotel, on the same floor
+with us. Every time I go down the corridor I see two or three tall, dark
+men, dressed in white flowing garments and white turbans, who make me
+low salaams. They are not going to the "Kronung," as they call it here.
+
+My next letter will be from Warsaw, where we should arrive at 4
+to-morrow afternoon.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Hotel de l'Europe, Varsovie#,
+    Thursday, May 17th, 1883.
+
+Here we are, Dear, having arrived from Berlin at 3.30 this afternoon. We
+started at 11--it was very hot even at that hour of the night, and the
+coupe-lit stuffy and uncomfortable. M. de Courcel and all his staff were
+at the station to see us off, and the two Embassies united made quite a
+gathering. I had a little talk with Princess Guillaume Radziwill, who is
+starting for the Coronation. It seems she has splendid jewels, and was
+rather bothered to know how to carry them. She has got them all on, in
+little leather bags around her waist, and she thinks she won't be very
+comfortable all night, with pins, brooches, etc., running into her. She
+was horrified when I told her where mine were.
+
+The night was long, we were not very comfortable, and the gentlemen
+were decidedly squeezed in one little carriage. We stopped somewhere,
+I don't remember the name, about 6. The men all got out and had coffee.
+I didn't move, but they sent me in a cup. We got to Alexandrownow, the
+Russian frontier, about 8. The station had a decidedly festive
+appearance--flags, greens, soldiers, music, etc. They were evidently
+preparing a salute and a national anthem of some kind. We all thought it
+was for us, and were proceeding to emerge to the strains of the
+"Marseillaise," when we heard the "Wacht-am-Rhein." It seems there was a
+Hessian Prince, nephew of the Emperor, on board, who was also going to
+the Coronation, so we rentreed our heads, and remained quietly in our
+carriages until they had disposed of him.
+
+Then came our turn. We were received with all ceremony--a tall Russian
+officer took charge of me, saying, in very good French, he was sure I
+would like to brush off the dust, and have some tea, etc. He took me
+upstairs to a very nice room, where a little maid was waiting with hot
+water, towels, brushes, tea, and little rolls. I took off my dress to
+have it brushed, and while I was standing in my petticoats several
+gentlemen came to the door (which wouldn't shut), and made various
+perfectly unintelligible remarks to me. The little maid laughed and made
+signs, and carried off my dress, which I thought was dangerous--however
+I couldn't say anything, so I put myself behind the door, and Adelaide
+arranged my hair; and I was just thinking of having a cup of tea when
+the maid reappeared with my dress, accompanied by another officer, who
+told me in French, from the other side of the door, that his Royal
+Highness of Hesse hoped I would do him the honour of breakfasting with
+him. I said I would come with pleasure, but begged they wouldn't wait,
+as I was not quite ready. As soon as I was dressed I sallied out, found
+my officer waiting, who conducted me to a private room, where were the
+Prince and his party, including W. and a Russian general, who had been
+sent from Varsovie to meet the Hessian Prince.
+
+They were all at table--the Prince put me next to him, introduced the
+Russian general and all his suite, and we had rather a pleasant hour. We
+had excellent tea in glasses (the first time I ever saw it), delicious
+little rolls, eggs, and cold meat. The Prince is a tall,
+broad-shouldered, good-natured German, speaking French quite well.
+
+We had the same ceremony at starting, first the "Wacht-am-Rhein" for the
+Germans, then the "Marseillaise" for us. The journey was not
+particularly interesting from the frontier here, but Varsovie itself
+most curious. We found the same bustle and preparation at the station
+here--the Governor of Varsovie, and Prefet de Police en tenue, and our
+Consul, M. Berard.
+
+We drove at once to the hotel, looked at our rooms, which are
+comfortable, and started again for a little drive through the town
+before dinner. Anything so unlike the cities one has been accustomed to
+see can't be imagined, long, straggling streets, enormous spaces, many
+houses tumbling down, and abominable pavement, deep holes, and paving
+stones as big as ordinary rocks--why the carriage ever got along was a
+mystery to us all. The Russian coachman, a perfect type with his long
+caftan and flat cap. Why the horses remain attached to the carriage is a
+problem, as they apparently have no harness of any description. I used
+to think we didn't use much in America. Will you ever forget Coligny's
+face at Oyster Bay when we started trotting down hill without any
+breeching?
+
+There were quantities of dirty Polish Jews in every direction, all with
+their long caftans, greasy, black curls, and ear-rings. I had time to
+rest a little before dinner. We all dined together, also Berard the
+Consul, all the men in their dress clothes, and I in my grey moire with
+white lace, and a big, black velvet bow, one string of pearls which I
+had on under my corsage. Pontecoulant, who is the next man to W., took
+me in, and I had General Pittie on the other side. The dinner was
+handsome and well served. Pontecoulant had attended to that while we
+were driving about.
+
+After dinner the men all went off to the theatre in the Governor's box
+to see a famous ballet. I was rather tired, and as we start again
+to-morrow, and have two nights in the train, I sha'n't mind going to bed
+early. I was interrupted, as we have had a visit, pleasant enough, from
+Mavrocordato (Greek), who is also on his way to Moscow to represent his
+country, and now I am going to bed. We leave to-morrow at 4, and I will
+try and write a little en route. They say I can probably, as the Russian
+roads (railroads) are smooth, and they go very slowly.
+
+    Friday, 2 o'clock.
+
+I will go on a little and send this letter also from here. We had an
+expedition this morning to one of the chateaux belonging to some member
+of the Sobieski family, or rather belonging to a Potocki quelconque,
+where there are many souvenirs of Sobieski. I never was on such a
+villainous pavement (they tell me Moscow is worse), and the road long
+and straight through flat country, not very interesting. The chateau was
+full of pictures and bibelots of all kinds, and every possible souvenir
+of Sobieski, flags, swords, snuff-boxes, etc., and quite worth seeing. I
+enjoyed the outing, as everything was absolutely unique, carriages,
+costumes, carts, people, language, houses, a poor tumble-down little
+hovel next to a great palace with gates and courts and gardens.
+
+We lunched again with all the Embassy, and then I went to see what was
+happening to the maids. I had left them in such a dejected condition on
+the landing when I went out. They couldn't get hold of any servant
+(couldn't make them understand when they did), couldn't get my boots or
+travelling skirt, or hot water, or anything, in fact. The hotel is full
+of people, all starting this afternoon, and there is a fine confusion,
+but they really must learn to get along without all modern conveniences.
+
+    #Entre Varsovie et Moscou#,
+    en wagon, Samedi soir, 19.
+
+I will try and write a little, Dear, while we are stopping at Smolensk
+for tea. It is rather difficult when we are moving (though we go slowly)
+as you will see by the writing, as the train shakes a great deal. As
+soon as it stops we all tumble out, are received by railway officials in
+uniform, and conveyed to a private room decorated with greens and flags,
+where most elaborate repasts are provided. We got off from Varsovie
+yesterday most comfortably about 4 o'clock. Various officials, our
+Consul Berard, were at the station to see us off, and an engineer of the
+company, who goes with us to Moscow to interpret and look after us
+generally. The train is most luxurious--for W. and me one long saloon
+carriage lined with grey satin, and with every variety of easy chair,
+sofa, table, writing-table, lamp, etc. Flowers on one of the tables and
+maps of the route on another. Communicating with it and directly behind
+are two bedrooms for us--mine is capitonne in blue satin, a very
+good-sized bed, glass, chairs, table, etc., also a dressing-room with
+every modern convenience. W.'s is grey satin, equally comfortable, with
+dressing-room, bath, etc.--behind these again a coupe for the
+maids--then a long carriage for the rest of the Mission with chairs,
+tables, etc, and small coupes. The engineer showed us all the
+arrangements, hoped we were satisfied, and also told us that two
+employes would be stationed at each end of our carriage always for
+whatever we might want.
+
+We got off fairly punctually. I wonder if I shall ever see Varsovie
+again. We stopped somewhere about 5.30, and found a charming little tea
+waiting for us in a private room, served of course in glasses with
+pieces of lemon, and excellent rolls and cakes. There we fraternized
+with the Dutch Mission, who are also on the train. M. Schimmelpenninck,
+a tall, stylish-looking man, with his son and gendre. The young men had
+recognized W., having seen him at the Congres de Berlin; so they
+recalled themselves, and we made friends. We agreed to take all our
+meals together, and as apparently we shall have about 6 in the day we
+shall probably see a good deal of each other.
+
+We had rather a pleasant evening, dined (very well) at Brest, always the
+same ceremonial; and after dinner some of the gentlemen came and paid us
+visits. We talked of course about "La Grande Armee" and Napoleon's
+campaigns, as we are passing over the same ground that they followed.
+The two moujiks at the doors are most attentive and intelligent; as soon
+as they hear any noise in our carriage, opening or shutting a window, or
+anything falling (some of the heavy books slipped off a table just now),
+they seem to divine it, and appear instantly and ask, I suppose, what we
+want. We have no means of communication, but they evidently understand.
+
+I was very comfortable last night in my little blue room, and had been
+sleeping quietly, when I seemed to divine that someone had come in. I
+didn't stir, and half opened my eyes, and for a moment was rather
+startled. The lamp, shaded, was burning, and in came one of the moujiks
+quite quietly. He moved very softly about the room, rather an appalling
+figure, with his high boots, fur cap, and curious half-savage face
+(gentle too), touched door and windows, fussed over the lamp, drew the
+curtain of the dressing-room a little closer to keep out any draught
+(didn't come up to the bed), and went out again just as quietly. It was
+a curious experience, flying through the darkness of the night, and
+wakening to see that strange figure prowling about.
+
+About 7, I think, in the morning he reappeared, this time standing at
+the door, and making many perfectly unintelligible remarks. It was so
+evident I didn't understand that he smiled, made a despairing gesture
+with his hand, and disappeared. As I was quite sure he would come back I
+got up and fastened the door. In a few moments I heard a colloquy
+outside, and then the voice of the engineer asking when I would like my
+maid and my tea--also saying they would stop in about an hour for early
+breakfast, and that mine and the Ambassador's would be brought to our
+carriage.
+
+I asked to have the maid at once--so Adelaide appeared with hot water
+and a cup of tea, and I dressed as comfortably as if I was in my
+dressing-room at the Rue Dumont d'Urville. As soon as I was ready I went
+into the big carriage, which looked very nice and clean, had been swept
+and dusted, window-panes washed (Adelaide saw the men doing it); a very
+nice little breakfast tray was brought, tea, every variety of good
+little rolls, and some fish. We contented ourselves with the rolls,
+didn't experiment upon the fish. The table was close to the window--all
+the gentlemen came up and talked to us, and as usual there were
+quantities of people about.
+
+We have passed through most desolate country, miles of plains, with
+scarcely any traces of human habitation. The cottages are very few and
+far between--generally a collection of little wood hovels, or "isbas,"
+as they are called. We go long distances without seeing houses, fences,
+gates, or even a road. At all the stations there are people--the big
+ones crowded--and at the smaller ones, where we hardly stop, merely
+slacken, peasants--and such objects, one can hardly tell the men from
+the women; long, unkempt hair, all barefooted, and all wearing a sort of
+fur garment with a hole in the middle to pass the head through, and
+which falls low down to their knees.
+
+We have just had tea at Smolensk, which is very Russian looking, with
+gilded domes and pink and green painted roofs. The gentlemen are smoking
+and walking up and down the platform, always exciting great attention.
+There are two rather pretty girls, with fair hair and red blouses, who
+are giggling and looking, and evidently wish to be remarked.
+
+We have gone on again now and are settled for the evening. The carriage
+looks so comfortable, curtains drawn, lamps lighted, flowers on the
+tables, and quantities of books and maps. Sesmaisons and Corcelle have
+just been in with their maps and Napoleon's Memoirs. It is most
+interesting to follow it all. They read out bits here and there as we
+passed through some well-known locality. At the Beresina, I think, where
+the passage of the river was so awful--some of the men quite exhausted,
+and yet not wanting to lie down on the snow, made themselves seats out
+of the dead bodies of their comrades. What an awful retreat!
+
+We have crossed the Beresina, where we saw a long procession of wood
+rafts. They are of the most primitive description--long logs lashed
+together, and in the middle a sort of cabin or hovel, where the women
+and children live. They were floating slowly down with the tide as we
+passed, and singing a sort of sad, monotonous chaunt, which sounded
+weird and pathetic, but impressionnant. They say all the Russian
+National songs have that undercurrent of sadness.
+
+Our dinner to-night was very gay. Schimmelpenninckg is most attractive.
+We have become great friends--I have even confided to him where my
+jewels are, as he thought I had left a bag in one of the stations, and
+was convinced it held my diamonds. I told him what dress I was going to
+wear at the Coronation, also my difficulty in finding out what the
+French Court dress was. The Empress never wore a regular Court
+train--her presentations in the Tuileries were always in the evening, in
+ordinary ball dress. I didn't think Queen Marie Amelie's would have been
+very pretty, so we concocted a Court dress from pictures, other people's
+souvenirs, etc.
+
+I was glad to walk up and down a little--one gets cramped sitting so
+long, even with our outings for food, which are frequent. The tea is
+extremely good always, a sort of greenish flavour, but very delicate,
+and I should think very strong. Pontecoulant showed me Monsieur
+Philippe in the distance, talking and gesticulating, evidently
+considering himself a most important feature of the Mission--also the
+detective, who looks like an amiable well-to-do bourgeois travelling for
+his pleasure, until you meet his eyes, and there is a quick, keen look
+which tells you he is very much on the alert. He has again just given W.
+the pleasing piece of information that all the well-known Nihilist
+leaders will be at Moscow.
+
+Hubert came up and says the horses are quite well--their rest at Berlin
+did them good. He is very much impressed with the absolute solitude of
+the country--"pas de villages--pas de barrieres, pas meme de chemins."
+We have also a telegram from M. Lhermite saying the house is quite in
+order, he and his cooks and attendants installed, and he will have
+breakfast ready for us to-morrow morning. We arrive about 8. We must be
+ready early, as they say the approach to Moscow is very fine. It stands
+low in a plain, but one sees the gilt domes and coloured steeples from a
+great distance.
+
+Our engineer tells us the railway officials are out of their minds. He
+says the special envoys--Princes particularly--change their minds and
+their routes all the time. They all have special trains, and the
+confusion will be something awful. The Hessian Prince is just ahead of
+us. We haven't crossed many trains, and yet there must be frequent
+communication between Varsovie and Moscow.
+
+I still feel rather in a dream, but not tired. I must stop now as it is
+nearly eleven--my next letter will be from Maison Klein, Malaia
+Dimitrofska, Moscow. Richard came in just now, and we have been talking
+over our future--Russia is a "terra incognita" to all of us. It has
+been certainly most novel and interesting so far. Just now we stopped
+for a few moments at a little station, quite alive with people and
+lights, as of course trains are going all night. The people look so
+different--generally fair, with flat features, and a repressed look, as
+if they had always been kept down.
+
+This long effusion will go early to-morrow morning, as they send off a
+valise at once from Moscow.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France, Moscow#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Monday, May 21st, 1883.
+
+We arrived quite safely and comfortably yesterday morning--34 people,
+counting servants, policemen, etc. I hadn't time to write, but you will
+have had the Havas telegram announcing our arrival. I am writing in my
+little boudoir, which looks on a large, square, light courtyard, and I
+wish you could see the wild confusion that reigns there. Quantities of
+boxes and "ballots" of every description. Mdme. Hubert, with a veil tied
+over her head, struggling to get at some of my trunks, which are all marked
+with an enormous M. K. W. in white letters (a private mark, so as not to
+confound them with the general mark of the Mission). Leroy, Hubert, and
+Pontecoulant trying to get the big carriage cases opened (they look like
+small houses). Sesmaisons and Calmon fussing over their saddles, which they
+apparently had got without much difficulty--quantities of Russian helpers
+working, talking, but _not_ loud, nor yelling to each other. How anything
+will ever come out of all that chaos I don't know.
+
+However, I must begin at the beginning. We got here about 8.30 yesterday
+morning. We were all up early, as the country grew more interesting as
+we approached Moscow. We had a confused vision of gilt domes, high
+coloured steeples, etc., but nothing stood out very distinctly. There
+was a fine confusion at the station--quantities of officials, all in
+uniform, detachments of soldiers, red carpets, etc. We were _not_
+received officially, not being Princes. The Mission only exists here
+_after_ they have presented their lettres de creance. We found our
+consul, Lagrene, waiting for us, several members of the French Colony,
+and Lhermite. We drove off at once to our Ambassade. The main street,
+Tverskaya, looked very gay with quantities of flags and draperies in
+every direction, and even at that time in the morning a great many
+people. Our house looks well--the entrance isn't bad, and the staircase
+marble, handsome. I hardly looked at the reception-rooms, as I was
+anxious to get to mine. Lhermite had done them very well, quite as I
+wanted, and a nice-looking woman, Russian of course, the femme de charge
+left in the house, was there to see if everything was right.
+
+I washed off a little dust, got a cup of tea, and then went with W. and
+Pontecoulant to inspect the house. The ballroom, "serre," and 3
+drawing-rooms are nice; the dining-room small in comparison and low. Not
+a breath of air anywhere, double windows, hermetically sealed, with
+_one_ pane opening in each; so the very first thing we did was to send
+for someone to take down the extra window, and open everything wide--the
+close smell was something awful. The femme de charge was astounded, and
+most unwilling. I think she thought we wished to demolish the whole
+establishment. W. has a large room opening out of the drawing-room.
+Pontecoulant took charge of the distribution of the gentlemen's rooms
+(which wasn't easy, as they were generally small, and not particularly
+comfortable, but I must say they were all easy going, and not at all
+inclined to make difficulties). He chose a room down-stairs for himself
+next the Chancellerie, which he has arranged at once very well. The
+ballroom is handsome, a parquet floor, and yellow satin furniture; the
+other drawing-rooms too are well furnished in silk and satin. The
+dining-room is small, but the serre will make a very good fumoir where
+the gentlemen can sit and smoke. It has nice cane arm-chairs and tables,
+and will be a resource.
+
+I went back to my own rooms and arranged my affairs with the maids.
+There is a large room, half lingerie, half debarras, upstairs, with good
+placards and closets where I can put my dresses if I ever get hold of
+them. They must be unpacked at once, particularly the velvet dresses. Of
+course I am always at the window. My Dear, how it would amuse you, so
+absolutely unlike anything you have ever seen.
+
+The men seem to work well enough--they all wear red flannel shirts
+tucked into their trousers, and high boots--at the present moment they
+are all gaping at the horses, who certainly do look enormous (the
+Russian horses are all small). It seems ours stand the cannon, and
+shouting, and waving flags and draperies very well (so the lessons in
+the Ecole Militaire, where they were taken several times after they
+arrived in Paris to have cannons and guns fired close to their heads,
+and flags waved about, did them good).
+
+A little Russian maid, in a red petticoat, and a blue handkerchief tied
+over her head, has just appeared, and I suppose will be a sort of fille
+de chambre. She smiles every time I speak to the maids, and watches
+every movement I make. I moved a fauteuil just now, and in an instant
+she had possession of it, and stood over it looking at me hard to see
+where I wanted it put. I daresay we shall get on very well. We
+breakfasted at 12.30 all together--a very good breakfast, flowers on
+the table, and everything most correct. The gentlemen were amusing, all
+giving their experiences. Just as we were finishing we heard someone
+coming, with the clank of sabre, and those long, heavy spurs the
+Russians wear; and a good-looking officer, Colonel Benckendorff, who
+was attached to our Embassy, appeared. He will never lose sight of us
+now until the ceremonies are over.
+
+We adjourned to the serre, and he put us au courant of everything. He
+told us the crowd and confusion at the Kremlin was indescribable (all
+the foreign Princes are lodged there). He had all sorts of papers,
+invitations, audiences, cartes de circulation, etc. W. is to present his
+lettres de creance and all the Mission en grande tenue at 10.30 to-day.
+(I am waiting now to see them start.) W. has just been in, looking very
+well, as he always does in full uniform. He wears the Danish Grand
+Cordon, he hasn't the Legion d'Honneur nor any Russian decoration. Two
+Maitres des Ceremonies, covered with gold lace and embroideries, have
+arrived in an ordinary Russian Court coupe--they have also an Imperial
+gala carriage for the Ambassador, and two ordinary Court carriages, and
+they have just started, quite a crowd of people before the house to see
+them depart. First went two Maitres des Ceremonies, their coats covered
+with gold embroidery; then W. alone in a gala carriage with four horses,
+two footmen standing behind, two mounted, and an ecuyer. The rest of the
+Mission followed in two ordinary Court carriages, all with the Imperial
+liveries, which are not very handsome, long red cloaks, with a sort of
+cocked hat. Benckendorff followed alone in his private carriage.
+
+[Illustration: Colonel Benckendorff From a photograph by Bergamasco St
+Petersburg]
+
+Our big footmen figured for the first time--the four in their blue and
+silver livery were at the door when the Maitres des Ceremonies arrived,
+and Pierson with his chain in the anteroom. They looked very well;
+Lhermite and our coachman saw the whole thing, and were not at all
+impressed with carriages, liveries, or horses. They said the carriages
+were absolutely shabby, the liveries neither well made nor well put on,
+and the horses beneath criticism. They do look extraordinarily small
+before those great heavy state carriages, rather like rats, as Hubert
+says--"Quand on verra les notres ce sera une surprise," for they are
+enormous.
+
+What do you think I did as soon as they had all gone? I had rather an
+inspiration--I told the maids to bring me my blue court train (they have
+unpacked some of the boxes, the jewels are all right, and locked up in a
+coffre-fort in W.'s room, but can't find one of Delannoy's caisses; I
+suppose it will turn up though, as Pontecoulant says the compte was
+quite right when we arrived yesterday, all the boxes here). I then
+locked the door of the ballroom, stationed Pierson outside, with strict
+orders not to let anyone in, put on my train over my brown cloth dress,
+put Adelaide and Mdme. Hubert at one end of the room, and whisked
+backwards and forwards, making them low curtseys (they were rather
+embarrassed). I have never worn a train in my life, as you know, and I
+wanted to see how it would go. It seems perfectly cut, and follows every
+movement, and doesn't get twisted around my ankles. The maids were quite
+satisfied, and told me it worked beautifully, particularly when I backed
+across the room. Madame Jaures, wife of Admiral Jaures, permanent French
+Ambassador to Russia, told me such hideous tales yesterday, when she
+came to see me, of women getting nervous and entangled in their trains
+when they backed away from the Emperor, that I thought I had better take
+some precautions. I indulged in those antics for about twenty minutes,
+then unlocked the door, released Pierson, and went upstairs to the
+lingerie to see how my unpacking was getting on. The missing trunk had
+just arrived, and my two women, with the little Russian maid, whose eyes
+opened wide when she saw the quantity of dresses being produced, and
+W.'s man were putting things to rights.
+
+The gentlemen got back to a late breakfast, much pleased with their
+reception. They were received in a small palace outside of Moscow,[4] as
+the Emperor makes his formal entree into the town to-morrow only. They
+found the Emperor very amiable, talking quite easily, saying something
+to everyone. He had on the Grand Cordon of the Legion d'Honneur. They
+were all presented also to the Empress. W. said she was very gracious
+and charming; remembered quite well having seen us in Paris. We were
+presented to her by the Prince of Wales, Exhibition year. He said she
+recalled the Princess of Wales, not so tall, and had splendid eyes.
+
+[4] Petrofski.
+
+Benckendorff stayed to breakfast, and we told him his place would be
+always ready for him at breakfast and dinner. The hours of standing
+apparently will be something awful. About 3.30 Mdme. Jaures came for
+me, and we went to see Lady Thornton, who is Doyenne of the Corps
+Diplomatique, but didn't find her. The Jaures have just arrived
+themselves with all the Corps Diplomatique from Petersburg. They said
+the starting from there was frightfully mismanaged, not nearly carriages
+enough for the people and their luggage. The Ambassadors furious,
+railway officials distracted, a second train had to be prepared which
+made a long delay, and a general uproar. The only man who was quite
+quiet and happy was Mr. Mackay (Silver King from California). He formed
+part of the United States Mission, had his own private car attached to
+the train, in which were Mrs. Mackay and Mr. and Mrs. Hunt (U. S.
+Minister and his wife), and was absolutely independent.
+
+After leaving our cards we drove through the Tverskaya, the main street.
+There were quantities of people, and vehicles of every description, from
+the Ambassadors' carriages (all with small, black Russian horses, a
+Russian coachman in caftan and flat cap, and a gorgeous chasseur, all
+gold braid, and hat with feathers, beside him), to the most ordinary
+little drosky or fiacre. Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, passed us going
+very quickly with the regular Russian attelage--3 horses, one scarcely
+harnessed, galloping almost free on one side.
+
+All the houses are dressed with red and gold draperies, and immense
+tribunes put up all along the street, as the procession passes through
+it from one end to the other when the Emperor makes his formal entrance
+to-morrow. There are crowds of peasants and country people, all the men
+in flannel shirts tucked into their trousers, and the women with a
+handkerchief or little shawl over their heads. They don't look the least
+gay, or excited, or enthusiastic; on the contrary, it is generally a sad
+face, principally fair, and blue eyes. They stand, apparently a compact
+mass, in the middle of the street, close up to the carriages, which can
+scarcely get on--then comes a little detachment of Cossacks (most
+curious looking, quite wild, on very small horses, and enormous long
+lances), rides into the crowd and over them. They make no resistance,
+don't say anything, and close up again, as soon as the carriage
+passes--and so it goes on all day.
+
+I was quite excited when we drove into the Kremlin--it is enormous,
+really a city, surrounded by a great crenellated wall, with high towers
+at intervals, quantities of squares, courts, churches, palaces,
+barracks, terraces, etc. The view of the town from one of the terraces
+overlooking the river is splendid, but the great interest is the Kremlin
+itself. Numbers of gilt domes, pink and green roofs, and steeples. It
+seemed to me that pink predominated, or was it merely the rose flush of
+the sunset which gave a beautiful colour to everything. We saw of course
+the great bell, and the tower of Ivan the Terrible (from where they told
+us he surveyed massacres of hundreds of his soldiers), everywhere a
+hurrying, busy crowd (though always quiet).
+
+Thanks to our "Carte de Circulation" we pass everywhere, though stopped
+at every moment. We crossed, among other things, a procession of
+servants, and minor court officials, with quantities of silver dishes,
+flagons, etc., some great swell's dinner being sent from the Imperial
+Palace. We went from one great square to another, stopping at the Palace
+where all the fetes are to be. There we found one or two Court officials
+whom Mdme. Jaures knew, and they showed us as much as they could, but
+everybody is "sur les dents," and nothing ready; and in spite of all the
+precautions one feels that there is a strong undercurrent of nervousness.
+We went to the Church de l'Assomption, where the Coronation is to take
+place. There too we found officials, who showed us our places, and exactly
+where the Court would be. The church is small, with a great deal of gilding
+and painting. All the tribunes are ready, and what we shall feel like when
+the ceremony is over I am sure I don't know. It will last about three hours
+and a half, and we stand all the time. There is not a vestige of a seat in
+the Tribune Diplomatique--merely a sort of rail or "barre d'appui" where
+one can lean back a little.
+
+We lingered a little on the terrace overlooking the river where there is
+a fine view of the town, and came out by the Porte St. Sauveur, where
+everyone, Emperor and peasant, uncovers. I was glad to get home and rest
+a little before dinner, but I have had a delightful afternoon.
+
+I will finish this evening, as the bag goes to-morrow. We had a pleasant
+dinner, our personnel only, and Colonel Benckendorff, who told us all we
+had to do these days. The day of the Coronation we meet at the German
+Embassy (General Schweinitz, who married Anna Jay, is Doyen of the Corps
+Diplomatique), and go all together to the Kremlin. The hour of
+rendezvous is 8 there, and as it is quite far off, and the gala
+carriages go on a walk, we must leave here at 7, and get up at Heaven
+knows what hour. What do you think we will look like in full Court dress
+at that hour in the morning? Our dinner was very good--wines, fruit,
+etc. W. complimented Lhermite.
+
+To-morrow we start at 11 for the Palace of Prince Dolgourouky, Governor
+of Moscow, from where we see the Emperor pass on his way to the Kremlin.
+It is not far away, but the streets are so barricaded and shut up that
+we must make a long detour. The most stringent measures are taken, all
+windows closed, no canes nor umbrellas allowed, and a triple line of
+troops all along the route. The maids are much excited. They have places
+in one of the Tribunes, and M. Lhermite is going to escort them. In some
+marvellous way they have been able to communicate with the Russian
+maids, and have given me various pieces of information. I have left the
+gentlemen all smoking in the serre, except W., who retired to his own
+quarters, as he had some despatches to write. He has had a long talk
+with Jaures this afternoon, and has also seen Sir Edward Thornton,
+British Ambassador. The house is quite quiet--the court-yard asleep, as
+no carriages or horses have been out to-night. We have two ordinary
+Russian landaus, with those fast little horses, for our every-day
+outings, as the big coupe d'Orsay only goes out on state occasions.
+
+The detective has made his report, and says the Nihilists will do
+nothing to-morrow--_perhaps_ the night of the gala at the Opera. It is
+curious to live in such a highly charged atmosphere, and yet I am less
+nervous--I wonder why--the excitement I suppose of the whole thing.
+Well, Good-night, Dear; I would say it in Russian if I could, but so far
+all I have learnt is "Tchai," which means tea, and "Karosch," which
+seems to be an exclamation of delighted admiration. The little maid says
+it every time I appear in a new garment.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France a Moscou#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Mardi, May 22d, 1883.
+
+How shall I ever begin to describe to you, Dear, the wonderful life we
+are leading. Everything is unlike anything I have ever seen. I suppose
+it is the beginning of the real far-off East. This morning I am sitting
+at the window reading and writing, and looking out into the court-yard,
+which is a never-failing interest--such quantities of people always
+there. The first thing I hear in the morning is Pontecoulant's voice. He
+is there every day at eight o'clock, conferring with Leroy and Hubert,
+examining the horses and carriages, deciding which ones are to be used,
+and giving orders for the day.
+
+Then arrive the two Russian landaus which go all day, and very different
+they look from our beautiful equipages and big important servants. Then
+comes Lhermite, rattling off, in a low pony cart, with the boy from the
+Consulate along-side of him. He goes to market every day, and nearly has
+a fit because he can't talk himself, and he knows they are all lying,
+and stealing, and imposing upon him generally. In one corner there is a
+group of little Russian horses tied to the stable doors, with Russian
+soldiers fussing over them. They have been sent from one of the cavalry
+barracks for the gentlemen to ride.
+
+In every direction men are cleaning carriages, saddles, harness,
+liveries; and with such little noise--they are extraordinarily quiet.
+
+    May 22d, 5.30
+
+We have just got back from the Governor's palace; and to-night the
+Emperor is safe in the Kremlin.
+
+It was a marvellous day. We started (the whole Mission) at 10.30 this
+morning, W. and I alone in the d'Orsay, which looked very handsome. It
+is dark blue with white stripes, like all our carriages, and lined with
+blue satin of rather a lighter shade. The men were in demi-gala, blue
+plush breeches, white silk stockings, and high hats (not tricornes),
+with silver bands and cords. Thornton, the English coachman, looked very
+smart, and handled his big black horses perfectly. The gentlemen told us
+he used very strong language when he got back to the stables over the
+abomination of the Moscow pavement. We were preceded as usual by Richard
+and Benckendorff in a light carriage. I wore one of Philippe's dresses,
+brown gauze embroidered in velvet flowers, all the front ecru lace, and
+an ecru straw bonnet, with a vieux rose velvet crown.
+
+I was much amused while I was dressing to hear various members of the
+party in the lingerie, "Madame, voulez-vous me coudre un bouton," "les
+plumes de mon chapeau ne tiennent pas," etc., even Thornton came in to
+have his lace cravate tied. We were a long time getting to Prince
+Dolgourouky's palace; not that it is far away, but the streets are
+barricaded in every direction, however I didn't mind--the crowd was so
+interesting, packed tight; they had been standing for hours, they told
+us, such pale, patient faces, but so _un_joyous; no jokes, nor bits of
+songs, nor good-natured scuffling; so unlike our Paris crowd on a great
+fete day, laughing and chaffing, and commenting freely on everything;
+and certainly very much unlike the American-Irish crowd at home in New
+York, on the 4th of July or St. Patrick's day. I remember quite well
+putting boxes of fire-crackers in a tin pail to frighten the horses, and
+throwing numerous little petards under people's feet, but no one seemed
+to mind. Fancy the effect of a pailful of fire-crackers exploding in any
+part of Moscow to-day. The tribunes covered with red cloth, or red and
+gold, crammed; and armies of soldiers, mounted and on foot, in every
+direction; and yet we were only in the side streets. The real crowd was
+in the Tverskaya where the cortege was to pass.
+
+When we finally arrived we were received by the Governor's two nieces,
+Madame Mansouroff and Princess Obolenski. The Prince, like all the other
+Russian noblemen, took part in the cortege. All our colleagues were
+there, but the Duc de Montpensier was the only special envoy. All the
+other foreign Princes were riding with the Emperor's suite. It was
+almost a female gathering, though of course all the men of the Corps
+Diplomatique were there. We waited some little time in the large
+drawing-room, where many presentations were made; and then had a very
+handsome breakfast, people talking easily, but the Russians visibly
+nervous and preoccupied. As soon as it was over we went out on the
+balconies, where we remained until the cortege had passed. They brought
+us tea at intervals, but I never stirred from my chair until the end.
+
+It was a beautiful sight as we looked down--as far as one could see,
+right and left, flags, draperies, principally red and gold, green
+wreaths, flowers and uniforms--the crowd of people well kept back behind
+a triple row of soldiers, the middle of the street perfectly clear,
+always a distant sound of bells, trumpets, and music. A salute of cannon
+was to let us know when the Emperor left Petrofski, the small palace
+just outside the walls where he has been all these days. As the time
+drew near one felt the anxiety of the Russians, and when the first coup
+sounded, all of them in the Palace and in the street crossed themselves.
+As the procession drew near the tension was intense. The Governor's
+Palace is about half way between the gate by which the Emperor entered
+and the Kremlin. He had all that long street to follow at a foot's pace.
+As soon as he entered the Kremlin another cannon would tell his people
+he was safe inside.
+
+At last the head of the gorgeous procession appeared. It was
+magnificent, but I can't begin to tell you the details. I don't even
+remember all I saw, but you will read it all in the papers, as of course
+all their correspondents are here. There were quantities of troops of
+all descriptions, the splendid chevaliers-gardes looked very imposing
+with their white tunics and silver cuirasses; both horses and men
+enormous. What I liked best were the red Cossacks (even their long
+lances red). They look perfectly wild and uncivilized and their little
+horses equally so, prancing and plunging all the time.
+
+The most interesting thing to me was the deputations from all the
+provinces of this vast Empire--Kirghis, Moguls, Tartars, Kalmucks, etc.
+There was a magnificent chief from the Caucase, all in white, with
+jewelled sword and high cap (even from where we were, so high above the
+crowd, we saw the flash of the diamonds); the Khan of Khiva, and the
+Emir of Bokhara, both with high fur caps, also with jewels on cap and
+belt. A young fellow, cousin I think of Prince Dolgourouky, came and
+stood near me, and told me as well as he could who the most important
+people were. Bells going all the time (and the Moscow bells have a deep,
+beautiful sound), music, the steady tramp of soldiers, and the curious,
+dull noise of a great crowd of people.
+
+Then a break in the troops, and a long procession of gala court
+carriages passed, with six horses and six runners, a man to each horse,
+with all the grands-maitres and high officials of the Court, each man
+covered with gold lace and embroidery, and holding his staff of office,
+white with a jewel at the top. After that more troops, the Emperor's
+body-guard, and then the Emperor himself. He was in full uniform, riding
+quite alone in front on his little white horse which he had ridden in
+the Turkish campaign. He looked quite composed and smiling, not a trace
+of nervousness (perhaps a little pale), returned all the salutations
+most graciously, and looked up, bowed and smiled to our balcony. A
+little distance behind him rode his two sons, and close up to him on
+the left rode the Duke of Edinburgh in red; any bomb thrown at the
+Emperor must have killed the English Prince.
+
+Then followed a long suite of Princes--some of their uniforms, Austrian,
+Greek, and Montenegrian standing out well. From that moment there was
+almost silence on the balcony; as the Emperor disappeared again all
+crossed themselves, and everyone waited for the welcome sound from the
+Kremlin.
+
+After a long interval, always troops passing, came the Empress. She was
+with her daughter, the little Grand Duchess Xenia, both in Russian
+dress. The carriage was shut, a coupe, but half glass, so we saw them
+perfectly, and the high head-dress (Kakoshnik) and white veil, spangled
+with silver was very becoming. The carriage was very handsome, all gold
+and paintings; six white horses led, and running footmen. The Empress
+and her daughter were seated side by side, and on a curious sort of
+_outside_ seat, on one side of the coupe, was a page, dressed in red and
+yellow, a sort of cloth of gold, with high feathers in his cap. The
+Empress looked grave and very pale, but she smiled and bowed all the
+time. It must have been an awful day for her, for she was so far behind
+the Emperor, and such masses of troops in between, that he might have
+been assassinated easily, she knowing nothing of it.
+
+There was again a great sound of bells and music when the Empress
+passed, all the people crossing themselves, but the great interest of
+course was far ahead with the Emperor. A great procession of Court
+carriages followed with all the Princesses, Grandes-Maitresses, etc.,
+and endless troops still, but no one paid much attention; every ear was
+strained to hear the first sound from the Kremlin. When the cannon
+boomed out the effect was indescribable. All the Russians embraced each
+other, some with tears running down their cheeks, everybody shook hands
+with everybody, and for a moment the emotion was contagious--I felt
+rather a choke in my throat. The extraordinary reaction showed what the
+tension had been.
+
+After rather a whirl of felicitations we went into the drawing-room for
+a few minutes, had tea (of course), and I talked to some of the people
+whom I had not seen before. Montpensier came up, and was very civil and
+nice. He is here as a Spanish Prince. He told me he had been
+frightfully nervous for the Emperor. They all knew that so many
+Nihilists were about--he added, "Il etait superbe, leur Empereur, si
+crane!"
+
+We had to wait a few moments for the carriage and got home about 5,
+having been standing a long time. We were almost as long getting back to
+the Embassy as we were coming. There was a dense crowd everywhere, and
+the same little detachments of Cossacks galloping hard into the midst of
+the people, and apparently doing no harm to anyone.
+
+I will finish now before going to bed--happily all our dissipations
+finish early. We dined quietly with only our own Embassy and
+Benckendorff, and then drove about for an hour or so looking at the
+illuminations, which were not very wonderful. We met all our colleagues
+doing the same thing. W. has just had his report from the detective. He
+said all the Nihilists were scattered along the route to-day, but
+evidently had no intention of doing anything. It seems curious they
+should be allowed to remain, as of course the Russian police know them
+quite as well as our man does.
+
+I have just had a notice that the Empress will receive me to-morrow. I
+will try and write a few lines always late before going to bed, and
+while the whole thing is still fresh in my memory. If this letter is
+slightly incoherent it is because I have had so many interruptions.
+The maids can hardly undress me, they are so anxious to tell me all they
+have seen. It certainly was a magnificent sight to-day, and the fears
+for the Emperor gave such a dramatic note to the whole thing. My eyes
+are rather tired, looking so hard, I suppose.
+
+    Wednesday, May 23d.
+
+Well, Dear, I have had my audience. It was most interesting. I started
+at 11 o'clock in the gala carriage, Hubert driving me, as he wanted to
+go once to the Kremlin with the carriage before the day of the
+Coronation. It seems there is a slight rise in the road just as one gets
+to the gate, which is also narrow. I wore the blue brocade with bunches
+of cherries, the front of mousse velvet, and a light blue crepe bonnet,
+neither gloves nor veil. Benckendorff and Richard, as "officer de
+service," went ahead in a small carriage. Benckendorff said I must have
+one of my own Embassy, and Richard thought it would amuse him to come.
+W. rather demurred--was afraid we wouldn't be serious enough, but we
+promised him to be absolutely dignes. Do you remember at the first
+official reception at the instruction Publique he never would let you
+and Pauline stand behind me--he was afraid we would make unseemly jokes,
+or laugh at some of the dresses.
+
+Our progress to the Kremlin was slow. The carriage is heavy, goes always
+at a foot's pace, and has a swinging motion which is very disagreeable.
+I felt rather shy, sitting up there alone, as of course there is a great
+deal of glass, so that I was much "en evidence." Everybody looked, and
+the people in the street crowded close up to the carriage. We found
+grand preparations when we got to the Palace--the great staircase
+covered with a red cloth, and every variety of chamberlain, page, usher,
+and officer on the stairs and at the door. Benckendorff and Richard
+helped me out of my carriage, and Richard's impulse was to give me his
+arm to go upstairs, but he was waved back imperatively, and a
+magnificent gentleman in a velvet coat, all lace and embroidery,
+advanced, and conducted me up the grand staircase, always a little
+behind me. I passed through a hedge of uniforms and costumes. When we
+came to the landing where there was a piquet of soldiers my attendant
+said--"La France," and they presented arms.
+
+At the top of the staircase, at the door of the first of a long enfilade
+of salons, I was handed over, with a very low bow, from my first
+gentleman to another of the same description, equally all gold lace, and
+embroidery; and so I passed through all the rooms, always meeting a new
+chamberlain in each one. The rooms are large and high, with vaulted
+roofs like a cathedral, little or no furniture (I believe the Russian
+Court never sits down except at meals). We made a halt in one of the
+salons, where we found several maids of honour of the Empress, who were
+presented to me. They were all dressed much alike in long, light
+dresses, and wore their badge--the Empress's chiffre in diamonds on a
+blue ribbon. While I was talking to them a procession of diplomats and
+special envoys passed through the room. They had just been received by
+the Empress.
+
+Presently appeared Prince Galitzin--Grand Maitre des Ceremonies, attired
+in red velvet and lace, and embroidery, who said, "Sa Majeste sera
+bientot prete." I continued my progress with the same ceremonial, passed
+through the salle du trone, which is handsome, white and gold; and came
+to a standstill in the next salon, evidently the ante-chamber of the
+room where I was to be received, as the two colossal negroes who always
+accompany the Emperor and Empress were standing at the door. They were
+dressed in a sort of Asiatic costume, cashmeres, turbans, scimitars,
+etc. I was received by the Princess Kotchoubey and Count Pahlen, Arch
+Grand Maitre des Ceremonies. The Princess K. is the mother of Princess
+Lise Troubetzkoi (whom you will remember in Paris as having a salon the
+first days of the Republic where political men of all opinions
+assembled--Thiers was her great friend). She was a little old lady,
+dressed entirely in white, with a jewel low on her forehead. Count
+Pahlen was dressed in blue velvet and embroidery, and carried his staff
+of office, white, with a large sapphire on the top.
+
+We talked a few minutes, when apparently there came a signal from the
+Empress. The doors flew open, and the Princess advanced to the
+threshold, making a beautiful curtsey (I am sure mine was not half so
+good), she seemed to go straight down to the ground, said--"J'ai
+l'honneur d'annoncer l'Ambassadrice de France." She then withdrew to one
+side--I made a curtsey at the door, which was instantly shut, another, a
+little farther on (the regulation is 3), but hadn't time for my third,
+as the Empress, who was standing in the middle of the room, advanced a
+few steps, shook hands and begged me to sit down. I hadn't seen her for
+some years, since she came to Paris with her husband, then Grand Duke
+Heritier (his father was still alive), and I didn't find her changed.
+She recalls the Princess of Wales, but is not so tall; has beautiful
+dark eyes, and a very gracious manner. She was dressed almost as I was,
+but in a different color, yellow brocade with bunches of plums, splendid
+lace in front, and a beautiful pearl necklace, three rows of large
+stones (my one row of fairly large ones was nowhere). I think I stayed
+about 20 minutes.
+
+We talked easily enough. She said the long day yesterday had been very
+fatiguing, the going at a foot's pace all that long distance with the
+peculiar swinging motion of the heavy gala carriage had tired her very
+much; also the constant bowing right and left, and the quantities of
+flags and draperies waving under her eyes. She didn't say anything about
+being nervous, so of course I didn't. She gave me the impression of
+having extraordinary self-control. I asked her what the little Grand
+Duchess thought of it all. She said that she really didn't know--that
+she didn't speak, but looked at everything and bowed to all the people
+exactly as she did.
+
+She said the day of the sacre would be very long and tiring,
+particularly beginning so early in the morning; that she was very
+matinale, quite accustomed to getting up early--was I? "Fairly--but I
+hadn't often been up and dressed in full dress and diamonds at seven in
+the morning." "You would prefer a ceremony by candle-light." "I think we
+should all look better at 9 o'clock in the evening." She laughed, and
+then we talked a little; Paris, chiffons, etc. She said some of her
+dresses had come from Philippe. We talked a little about Moscow and the
+Kremlin. She asked me what I had seen. When I spoke of the church and
+the tribunes for the Corps Diplomatique with _no_ seats, and a very long
+ceremony, she was quite indifferent; evidently didn't think it was of
+the slightest consequence whether we were tired or not; and I don't
+suppose it is.
+
+When she congedied me the door flew open (she evidently had a bell under
+her chair which she touched with her feet); she shook hands, and walked
+immediately to a door at the other end of the room; so I didn't have to
+back out all the way. Princess Kotchoubey and Count Pahlen were waiting
+for me. The Princess said, "Sa Majeste vous a garde bien longtemps,
+Madame l'Ambassadrice. J'espere que vous avez ete contente." Pahlen also
+made me a polite phrase. They both accompanied me across the room, and
+then the door opened, and another chamberlain took possession of me.
+Just as we got to the door the Princess was saying something about her
+daughter "devenue absolument une Parisienne," when it opened; she
+stopped short in the middle of her phrase, and made me a little
+curtsey--her function was over once I passed into the other room. It was
+too funny.
+
+I was conducted through all the rooms and down the great staircase with
+the same ceremony. I found Richard waiting in one of the big rooms, with
+the "Dames du portrait," but this time he didn't venture to offer his
+arm to the Ambassadress, and followed with Benckendorff at a respectful
+distance.
+
+I found my carriage surrounded by an admiring crowd. The horses are
+handsome and enormous, particularly here where the race is small, also
+the French gala liveries are unlike anything else. Hubert, my own
+coachman, sits up so straight and pompous on his box, and looks so
+correct I hardly know him. The movement of the gala carriage is
+something awful, makes me really ill.
+
+    May 23d, 10 o'clock.
+
+We have had a quiet evening--some of the gentlemen have gone off to hear
+the famous Bohemiennes in one of the public gardens. They have been
+leaving cards all day on the special envoys, Princes, etc. W. and
+Pontecoulant are having a conference, and I have got into my tea-gown,
+and am reading a little, writing a little, and being generally lazy. W.
+and I also did a round of visits this afternoon.
+
+As naturally none of our servants know either a word of Russian, or the
+streets of Moscow, we took with us the little polygot youth from the
+Consulate, who knows equally well French, Russian, and German. We gave
+him our list, and he went ahead in a drosky.
+
+We found no one but the Princess Obolenski, who spoke at once about the
+Emperor's entree; said no one could imagine the relief it was to all of
+them to know that he was actually safe in the Kremlin. They had
+evidently all dreaded that day, and of course notwithstanding all the
+precautions a bomb _could_ have been thrown. The thrower, par exemple,
+would have been torn to pieces by the crowd; but what makes the strength
+of the Nihilists is that they all count their lives as nothing in what
+they consider the great cause.
+
+How hideous the life of the Emperor and the Empress must be. They say
+they find letters on their tables, in their carriages, coming from no
+one knows where, telling them of all the horrors in store for them and
+their children.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France, a Moscou#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Thursday, 24 Mai, 1883.
+
+I am having a quiet morning. We have no particular function to-day.
+Madame Jaures is coming to get me after breakfast, and we are going to
+do a little sightseeing. The first thing I hear in the morning always is
+Pontecoulant's voice in the court talking to Leroy and Hubert, and
+examining the horses. The pair we had in the gala carriage yesterday
+went beautifully. Hubert was rather nervous, as there is a steep little
+bit just as one passes through the gates of the Kremlin--it is also
+narrow, and those big, unwieldy carriages are not easily handled. The
+pavement is so rough that I was actually a little sick yesterday after I
+came in.
+
+I was called off by a visit from Prince Orloff (Russian Ambassador in
+France). He comes almost every day, and is much interested in all our
+doings--said the carriage and general style of everything was much
+admired yesterday. About two Madame Jaures came, and we started off
+sight-seeing. The admiral, Jaures, and one or two of the young men met
+us at the Kremlin, and we went over the two palaces--new and old. The
+old one is most curious; small, dark, low rooms, vaulted ceilings, all
+most elaborately ornamented in Byzantine style; a small steep, twisting
+staircase; large porcelain stoves, and absolutely uncomfortable. We saw
+the dining-room where the Emperor and Empress will dine in state the day
+of the Coronation. The new palace is quite different--high, light, large
+rooms, white, which must look beautiful at night lighted by thousands of
+wax candles. In the great ballroom the two Throne chairs are on a gold
+dais with great curtains of purple velvet and ermine--very royal
+looking.
+
+(I wonder if the sight of all this splendour will destroy my mental
+equilibrium--I assure you I felt rather like a queen myself yesterday,
+seated up alone in the great gala carriage, with everybody bowing and
+gaping.) There is a splendid view over the Kremlin, the river and the
+town from all the palace windows. We went again to the church of the
+Assomption, where we found Count Pahlen superintending. He showed us
+some of the famous paintings--among others a Madonna with a _black_
+face, a splendid diamond necklace, and large sapphires and emeralds
+disposed about her person. There are jewels about everywhere; on
+pictures, brackets, etc. Pahlen told me, when I was noticing them, that
+the Russian Court was famous for coloured stones, particularly emeralds
+and sapphires--told me to notice the Grand Duchess Constantine's
+emeralds, and the Empress's sapphires. I will, if ever I get time to go
+into details, but everything is on such an enormous scale here.
+
+He also asked me if I was accustomed to _standing_ three or four hours,
+and if not he would suggest a _pliant_"dissimule sous les plis de la
+traine," and showed me with pride the rails, covered with red velvet, in
+our tribune, which he had had put there so we should be comfortable! It
+will really be an awful day, particularly as we have to begin it so
+early, but I suppose we shan't die of it.
+
+I came back about 4, changed my dress for something more elegant (the
+blue silk with long blue redingote and white lace), and started off
+again in the d'Orsay for some visits (the little boy in the drosky going
+in front). I found the Princess Radziwill in two small rooms (she
+received me in her bedroom), all she could find for herself and her
+husband in Moscow--and that at an awful price (and she is Russian born).
+I also found Countess Pahlen, wife of the Grand Master, who was very
+smiling, and suggested that we should have an evening reception, which
+would be much appreciated. Of course we shall be delighted, and had even
+thought of a ball, but all those things had been settled in Russia
+before we left Paris. The Russian Court wished to have _one_ ball only,
+as the Coronation functions were numerous and fatiguing, and that is to
+be at General Schweinitz's (Doyen of the Corps Diplomatique).
+
+After leaving Countess Pahlen I went again to the Kremlin, the
+d'Orsay always exciting much attention. I had the greatest difficulty in
+finding out the Duchesse d'Edimbourg, for whom I had to write myself
+down, and could find no servant who spoke either German, French, or
+English. The crowd and confusion was something awful; apparently the
+whole of Moscow was going wherever I was--Ambassadors, Generals,
+Chamberlains, maids-of-honour, servants with tea, crowding in all the
+corridors. You never saw such a sight, and just as many more in the
+court-yards--carriages, soldiers, work-people, carpenters, bales of
+stuffs, and planks for stands, and all in that beautiful cadre--the old
+gray walls looked so soft, and the marvellous effects of colour
+everywhere. I was well shaken up, such a pavement. I met the Duc
+de Montpensier at every turn, sight-seeing too. We had a quiet dinner,
+the personnel only with Benckendorff. The gentlemen had been going all
+around too all the afternoon leaving cards. They all say the pavement
+is most trying.
+
+W. and Pontecoulant have come in late as usual for a last little talk. I
+told them what Countess Pahlen had said about an evening reception. W.
+had had the same idea. I think the house is large enough--the ballroom
+ought to light well, all white with yellow satin furniture. We must have
+a talk with Lhermite about flowers; he says there are none here, his
+come from Paris.
+
+    Friday, 25th.
+
+The men of the Embassy went off early, as they had no end of audiences
+with all the Grand Dukes; uncles and brothers of the Emperor. I walked
+about a little with Adelaide, but I didn't find that very pleasant. It
+is curious I never see a lady of any kind walking, and we always attract
+attention. It is very warm, the sun really powerful. I breakfasted alone
+in the big dining-room, an elaborate meal, one maitre d'hotel and two
+tall footmen waiting upon me--I was rather sorry I hadn't asked for tea
+and cold chicken in my dressing-room.
+
+At 3.30 the gentlemen all reappeared, put on their Austrian decorations,
+and we started for the reception of the Arch Duke and Arch Duchess
+Albert of Austria. We found quantities of people, as all the Corps
+Diplomatique had been convoked. W. and I went as usual in the d'Orsay. I
+wore my creme voile with lace and embroidery, straw bonnet with creme
+feathers, lined with dark blue velvet. We waited some little time in a
+large hall or anteroom where was Count Wolkenstein, Austrian Ambassador,
+who presented all the suite of the Arch Duke. Then appeared the Arch
+Duke alone--said his wife was coming in a few moments. We had known him
+in Paris--he had dined with us at the Quai d'Orsay when W. was Foreign
+Minister, our Exhibition year. He is a tall, distinguished looking man.
+It was when he was dining at the Elysee one night with Marechal MacMahon
+that such a funny contre-temps occurred. Their dinners were always very
+good and soignes, but evidently they had not thought about the names of
+the dishes, and when we were well on with the dinner we suddenly
+realized that something was wrong. My neighbour said to me "Look at your
+menu," and what did I see--"Glace a la Magenta"--"Gateau Solferino," and
+I forget the third thing--all battles where the Austrians had been
+beaten. I spoke to one of the household about it afterwards who said
+"J'ai froid dans le dos en pensant a ce que le Marechal me dira." It
+seems that when he was angry the Marechal didn't mince matters, and used
+most _emphatic_ expressions. You can imagine how carefully we studied
+the menu of our dinner which came two days after--"Glace a la Regence,"
+"Gateau Moka," etc., nothing compromising.
+
+While the Arch Duke was talking there was suddenly a move, and he went
+to meet the Arch Duchess who came in, crossed the room quickly, and
+asked us to follow. We did, into a smaller room, W. and I alone. She is
+very handsome, younger than he is, tall and slight, dressed in a black
+dress with a great deal of lace, a very long train, a handsome pearl
+necklace, and a high comb of diamonds. She said she would like to make a
+stay in Paris. After they had congedied us W. asked if he might present
+the rest of the Mission, so I returned to the large salon and saw
+various people to talk to, including Count Apponyi, whom I had known in
+Paris, where his father was Ambassador for years.
+
+We dined at home and went in the evening to a reception at M. de
+Giers'--Foreign Minister. The rooms were not large, and there were a
+great many people, I should think more foreigners and diplomatists than
+Russians. Princess Kotchoubey and Countess Pahlen did the honours.
+Quantities of people were presented to me--I shall never remember their
+names or their faces. I wore fraise-ecrase velvet, the front covered
+with white "point a l'aiguille." General Wolseley, who is here with the
+Duke of Edinburgh, was presented. He is not at all the real British
+type, small and dark, but very bright eyes. I also had quite a talk with
+my Dutch friend Schimmelpenninck, who assured me my toilettes were tres
+reussies, particularly the white one, this afternoon. I had quite a talk
+too with the Hunts, who are very nice. Both are tall and fine-looking,
+she always very well dressed. The U.S. Mission is very distinguished--they
+have Mr. and Mrs. Mackay with them, both very natural and quiet; she of
+course has splendid jewels (they tell me her sapphires are beautiful),
+but she wears them quite simply, without any ostentation. There is also
+Admiral Baldwin, who has his ship at Cronstadt, and two charming young
+aides-de-camp, Rogers and Paul.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+    Saturday, May 26, 1883.
+
+Well, Dear, I am just alive, but nothing more, having performed 5 Grand
+Duchesses. The gentlemen all went off in full uniform at 11 to begin
+their audiences. I followed later alone (they always go en bande) with
+Richard going in the small carriage in front as officier de service
+(which amuses us both perfectly). I wore the white soft silk with
+Valenciennes that you liked, and the flower hat. Benckendorff
+complimented me on my toilette. It was a long affair getting to our
+different Princesses. They are all lodged in the Kremlin, and the
+various palaces connect with all sorts of passages and staircases, but
+the corridors are narrow and the block something awful. My first
+audience was with the Grand Duchess Michel. Her husband is an uncle of
+the Emperor, and was for a long time Governor of the Caucasus. When we
+finally got to the door of the apartments I was received by 2
+Chamberlains (all gold and embroidery), who never left me until they
+deposited me in the carriage at 5 o'clock--I had started at 1.30. The
+ceremonial was always exactly the same, one or two ladies-in-waiting
+were in the room communicating with the one in which the Grand
+Duchess was waiting. They announced "L'Ambassadrice de France," I got
+through as many of my three regulation curtseys as I could--I never
+really had time to make the third, as they all advanced a few steps and
+shook hands. The Grand Duchess Michel is a Baden Princess, tall, slight,
+very intelligent, simply dressed in black velvet, and of course a pearl
+necklace. She spoke to me in English, French, and German, but the
+conversation was mostly in French. She seemed well up in French
+literature, and asked me what I thought of Zola's "L'Assommoir," was
+really surprised when I said I hadn't read it, nor in fact scarcely
+anything he wrote. She considered it a marvel, and couldn't understand
+any French woman not reading every word that came from "un des plus
+puissants cerveaux du siecle." She knew too all the pieces de theatre,
+and when I expressed surprise that she had had time to read so much,
+said her life in the Caucasus was so lonely--no society of any kind,
+and no resources outside of her own palace. I should think she was a
+maitresse femme.
+
+After leaving her I was taken in hand again by my two chamberlains, and
+walked some distance across one or two courts, always meeting more
+chamberlains escorting colleagues, principally men, all in uniform and
+orders, doing the same thing, and trying to get on as fast as they
+could. My next visit was to the Grand Duchess Constantine. When we got
+to the anteroom and small salon we found them full of gentlemen, who
+proved to be our Mission, who had arrived a few minutes before. That
+made a slight change of programme, as the Grand Duke decided to receive
+W. and me together with the Duchess--accordingly we were received first,
+alone, in a small room. The Grand Duke was standing close to the door;
+the Grand Duchess in the centre of the room. He is a sailor, looks very
+intelligent. She has been very handsome, carries herself beautifully,
+and has a splendid figure. He was in uniform--she in red velvet (she
+_didn't_ have on her emeralds--I suppose we shall see them all
+to-morrow). They both talked very easily about all sorts of things;
+Greece of course and the Schuylers, of whom she spoke very warmly. Her
+daughter is the Queen of Greece--I hope we shall see her, as I have
+heard Gert talk so much about her. The Grand Duchess said she was tired
+already, and the Ceremonies haven't begun yet. She had received
+yesterday 100 ladies of Moscow. They came in groups of 10, and she had
+to find something to say to each one.
+
+As soon as the audience was over W. asked permission, as usual, to
+present the rest of the Mission. I remained in the outer salon talking
+to the ladies-in-waiting. The apartment is high, with a splendid view
+over Moscow. They pointed me out several churches and curious
+roofs--were much interested in all my visits and my clothes, supposed I
+had quantities of trunks.
+
+After that I departed again alone, and saw the Grand Duchess Catherine,
+who was very amiable, but kept me a few minutes only, as she had so many
+people to receive. Then I took another long walk, and up several flights
+of narrow, turning stairs (the chamberlains in front and Richard behind)
+to the Duchesse d'Oldenburg. The Belgian Mission was being received, so
+I waited in the outer salon, and again W. and the gentlemen arrived, and
+he and I were received together. Evidently they like it better when we
+can go together, as it saves time for them--and if we are tired, think
+what they must be. I went off again alone, and was received by the Grand
+Duchess Wladimir, who is charming--a German Princess. She is young, a
+pretty figure, very well dressed in white. She looked rather delicate,
+having just got over a rather bad attack of measles. She dreads the
+fatigue very much to-morrow, and had asked the Empress if she might have
+a folding-chair, a pliant of some kind, but her "demande n'a pas ete
+accueillie favorablement. L'Imperatrice elle-meme sera debout tout le
+temps. Il faudrait absolument que nous fassions comme elle." I didn't
+mention my pliant, as I am quite sure no one will notice to-morrow
+anything _I_ do.
+
+That finished my audience, and I had been standing or walking since I
+left the Embassy, so I was glad to find the carriage, which was by no
+means easy. There were quantities at the Kremlin, and as we never by any
+chance came out at the same door by which we went in, and the coachman
+was told to follow, he naturally had some difficulty in getting it. Also
+it is raining hard, which complicates matters. There are carpets down to
+the doors, but so many people have passed over them that they are just
+as wet and muddy as the streets. We met all the rest of the Mission at
+the Embassy door, and then there was a general detente, the men all
+calling for their servants to get them out of their uniforms, and to
+bring beer and cigars.
+
+W. came in to tea. He looked really done up--he had been at it steadily
+since 12. There are so many Princes and Grand Dukes without any wives. I
+am writing in bits, but will finish as usual the last thing. We have had
+a small dinner--the other French Embassy (permanent), Lagrene, Consul,
+and Orloff. Benckendorff of course. They all went away early, as our day
+to-morrow is an awful one.
+
+It is pouring still, and we are rather melancholy at the thought of our
+gala carriages, and blue and silver liveries in a heavy rain. Just
+before dinner I had a visit from Philippe, and he made various essais
+with my diadem and feathers. He is to be here at six to-morrow morning
+to coiffer me. He also requested that he might see my dress so as to
+make his coiffure "harmoniser avec l'ensemble." I wanted to see it too,
+so as to be sure that everything was right, and the flowers well sewn
+on. It is now reposing on one of the big arm-chairs in the
+dressing-room, covered up with a sheet.
+
+My eyes are shutting of themselves, so I will stop. Please send all my
+letters on to America, as I never can write _two_ accounts of our life
+here.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France a Moscou#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Dimanche, 27 Mai, 1883.
+
+I am perfectly exhausted, Dear, after the most beautiful, bewildering,
+exhausting day I have ever gone through. We got home at 4.30. I rested a
+little, had tea as usual in my boudoir with W. and Richard, and will
+write as much as I can while I am still under the impression of all I
+have seen.
+
+I was up at 5.30, as we had to leave here at 7. Philippe was very
+punctual--put on diadem and feathers very well. Happily it was all blue,
+rather dark (as my dress too was blue), and he remarked pleasantly, to
+put me at my ease I think, and make me feel as comfortable as I could at
+that hour of the morning, "Le bleu c'est le fard de Madame." He couldn't
+understand that I wouldn't let him maquiller my face--said all the
+Princesses were painted--but I really couldn't go that.
+
+When I appeared in the drawing-room, the men of the Embassy were very
+complimentary about my dress. We went in our three carriages (I had the
+white moire cloak, trimmed with dark feathers over me), W. and I and
+Pontecoulant in the first gala carriage driven by Leroy (I wish you
+could have seen him, as much taken up with _his dress_ as I was with
+mine). He stood giving directions to a quantity of understrappers, but
+never touching harness, nor even whip, until we appeared, then got on
+his box as we got into the carriage, settled himself in a fine pose, and
+we started.
+
+The second gala carriage driven by Hubert (who looked very well) came
+next, and then the d'Orsay. It really was a very pretty cortege, and we
+were much looked at and admired, as we drove very slowly, and jolting
+very much, to the German Embassy. All our colleagues came up about the
+same time. Some of the gala carriages were good, the Austrian, but ours
+out and out the best. No one else had three.
+
+We assembled in one of the large rooms of the palace, and then walked
+through numerous rooms, galleries, and finally through an open court,
+entirely covered with a red carpet, and lined with soldiers and
+officers--every description of uniform. The Chevalier-Gardes,
+magnificent in their white tunics, silver cuirasses and helmets.
+Happily it was fine--I don't know what we should have done in the rain,
+and also so early in the morning the sun was not genant (as it was later
+in the day). The long procession, the men in uniform and decorations;
+the women in full dress, feathers and diadems, was most effective.
+
+I left my cloak in the carriage, and didn't feel chilly, but some of the
+women were uncomfortable, and had little lace and fur tippets. We filed
+into the church (which is small), and into the Diplomatic Tribune, and
+settled ourselves quite easily--there was plenty of room. The effect
+inside was dazzling: tapers, flowers, pictures, jewels, quantities of
+women already seated, all in the Kakoshnik, and a general impression of
+red and gold in their costumes. All the Empress's ladies wear red velvet
+trains, embroidered in gold. People seemed to be coming in all the time.
+Deputations from the provinces, officials of Moscow, officers,
+chamberlains, a moving mass of colour. The costume of the Popes was
+gorgeous--cloth of gold with very high jewelled mitres.
+
+We waited some time before the ceremony began, but there was so much to
+see that we didn't mind, and from time to time one of the officials came
+and stood with us a little, explaining who all the people were. The
+whole church was hung with red, and red carpets everywhere. Just in the
+middle there was a high estrade, covered with red velvet, and a great
+gold baldaquin with Imperial eagles embroidered on it. It was all
+surrounded by a gold balustrade, and on it were the two thrones. A
+little lower on the same estrade were the places of the Princes of the
+family, and the Foreign Princes.
+
+A little before 9 the Imperial family began to arrive. Almost all the
+Grand Duchesses in trains of drap d'argent, bordered with sable, and
+magnificent jewels. Then there was a great sound of trumpets, and
+cheering outside (those curious, suppressed Russian cheers), and they
+told us the Emperor and Empress were coming. They were preceded by an
+officer of the Chevalier-Gardes, with sabre-a-nu. The Emperor was in
+full uniform, with the blue ribbon of St. Andre. The Empress quite
+simple in white and silver, the Imperial eagles embroidered on the
+front of her dress; no diadem, no veil, nor jewels; her train carried by
+4 pages, her hair quite simply done--she looked so young, quite like a
+school-girl. Then followed a glittering suite of Princes, officers,
+etc.
+
+The service was very long, the chanting quite fine; the men have
+beautiful, deep voices--I cared less for the intoning, they all end on
+such a peculiar high note. I didn't like the looks of the Popes
+either--the long beards worried me. Of course the real interest was when
+the Emperor took the crown from the hands of the Pope (kneeling before
+him) and put it on his own head. He looked a magnificent figure,
+towering over everybody, as he stood there in his Imperial robes, cloth
+of gold lined with ermine, and a splendid jewelled collar. The crown
+looked high and heavy--made entirely of jewels.
+
+His two brothers, Grand Dukes Wladimir and Alexis, put on his robes. The
+Grand Duke Wladimir always stands close behind his brother. He has a
+stern, keen face. He would be the Regent if anything should happen to
+the Emperor, and I think his would be an iron rule.
+
+As soon as the Emperor was crowned the Empress left her seat, came to
+the middle of the platform, made a deep curtsey to the Emperor, and
+knelt. Her court ladies then gathered around her, and put on the
+Imperial mantle, also in cloth of gold lined with ermine, and the same
+jewelled collar like the Emperor's. When she was dressed, the Emperor,
+stooping low over her, put on her crown, a small one made entirely in
+diamonds, raised her and kissed her. As she stood a moment she almost
+staggered back under the weight of the mantle--the 4 pages could hardly
+hold it.
+
+Then the long procession of Princes and Princesses left their seats on
+the estrade, and passed before the Sovereigns. First came his two
+brothers, Wladimir and Alexis. They kissed the Emperor, then bent low
+before the Empress, kissing her hand. She kissed them each on the
+forehead. Next came the two young Princes, in uniform like their father,
+wearing also the blue ribbon of St. Andre, and the little Grand Duchess
+(aged 10) in a short white dress, but the Kakoshnik.
+
+It was a pretty sight to see the children bowing and curtseying low to
+their parents. Some of the ladies' curtseys were wonderful--the Arch
+Duchess Charles Louis extraordinarily graceful (I wonder how I ever
+shall get through mine--I am certainly much less souple than these
+ladies). When they had all passed the Emperor went alone into the chapel
+to communier, and receive the sacred oil--the Empress remained kneeling
+outside.
+
+[Illustration: The Emperor Crowning the Empress Church de l'Assomption]
+
+We had various incidents in our tribune--one or two ladies fainted, but
+couldn't get out, they had to be propped up against the rail, and
+brought round with fans, salts, etc. We stood for three hours and a
+half.
+
+The Emperor and Empress left the church with the same ceremony (we all
+following), and then there was a curious function. Under a dais, still
+in their court robes, their trains carried by six or eight officers,
+they walked around the enceinte, going into three or four churches to
+make their devotions, all of us and all the other Princes following, all
+their suites, and an accompaniment of bells, cannon, music, and cheers.
+(I forgot to say that when the Emperor put his crown on his head in the
+church, the cannon announced to his people that their sovereign was
+crowned.)
+
+We had a few drops of rain, then the sun came out strong, and I was
+rather wretched--however General Pittie came to my rescue, and shaded me
+with his hat (all the men were bareheaded). There were tribunes all
+along the route for the people who hadn't been able to get into the
+church; in one of them all the younger members of the Embassies, as of
+course _all_ couldn't be got inside. These two were all gold and red,
+filled with women, mostly in white, and men in uniform. You can't
+imagine what a gorgeous sight it was, and the crowd below packed tight,
+all gaping at the spectacle.
+
+We didn't dirty our dresses (the trains of course we carried in our
+arms), I don't know why, as the red carpet was decidedly damp and
+muddyish in places. We finally arrived at the Vieux Palais, where we
+were to breakfast, and the Emperor and Empress were also to have a
+little respite before dining in state with their people.
+
+We had a handsome breakfast, quantities of gold and silver plate, and
+many Russian dishes. I didn't much like the looks of the soup, which was
+clear, but had various things floating about on it--uncooked fish,
+little black balls, which I thought might be caviar, which I don't ever
+like; and I was rather wondering what I should eat (I was very hungry),
+when my neighbor, Nigra, the Italian Ambassador, suggested I should
+share his meal. He didn't like Russian cookery either, so he had
+intrigued with a friendly official, who was going to bring him a cold
+chicken and a bottle of good red wine. I accepted joyfully, and we had a
+very good breakfast.
+
+I think we were about three-quarters of an hour at table, and it was
+very pleasant to sit down after those hours of standing. When the
+breakfast was over, a little after two, we were conducted to the
+Imperial dining-room, a square, low room in the old Kremlin with a
+vaulted ceiling, and heavy Byzantine decorations; quantities of
+paintings on a gold ground, bright coloured frescoes, most elaborate.
+There were great buffets and tables covered with splendid gold and
+silver plates, flagons, vases, etc. At the end of the room was a square,
+raised platform covered with red, and a splendid dais, all purple
+velvet, ermine, and gold embroidery where the Imperial couple were to
+dine with their faithful subjects.
+
+We strangers were merely admitted for a few minutes to see the beginning
+of the meal, and then we retired, and the Emperor remained alone with
+his people. Of course officers and officials of all descriptions were
+standing close round the platform. There was a large table to the
+left as we came in, where almost all the Russians were already
+assembled--all the women in the national dress, high Kakoshnik, long
+white lace spangled veil, and a sort of loose hanging sleeve which was
+very effective. The ensemble was striking.
+
+[Illustration: Empress Marie in her Coronation Robes]
+
+Presently we heard a sound of music and trumpets, which told us the
+Royalties were approaching, and as they came near we heard the familiar
+strains of the Polonaise from Glinka's opera "La Vie pour le Czar,"
+which is always played when the Emperor and Empress appear. They came
+with the usual escort of officers and chamberlains, smiling and bowing
+graciously to all of us. They seated themselves (always in their cloth
+of gold mantles, and crowns on their heads) on the two throne chairs; a
+small table was placed in front of them, and then the dinner began.
+
+The soupiere was preceded by a chamberlain in gold lace; held by a
+Master of Ceremonies, and flanked on each side by a gigantic
+Chevalier-garde, sabre-a-nu. There was always a collection of officials,
+chamberlains, pages, etc., bringing up the rear of the cortege, so that
+at each entree a little procession appeared. We saw three dishes brought
+in with the same ceremony--the fish was so large on a large silver dish
+that _two_ Masters of Ceremonies held that.
+
+It was really a wonderful sight, like a picture in some old history of
+the Moyen Age. As soon as the Sovereigns had taken their places on the
+thrones all the Russians at their table sat down too. We couldn't,
+because we had nothing to sit upon, so we remained standing at the end
+of the room, facing the estrade. They told us that when the Emperor
+raised his glass and asked for wine that was the signal for us to
+retire; and that it would be after the roast. (All our instructions were
+most carefully given to us by Benckendorff, who felt his
+responsibility.) Think what his position would have been if any member
+of _his_ Embassy had made a "gaffe." Accordingly as soon as the roast
+made its appearance all our eyes were riveted upon the Emperor. He
+raised his glass slowly (very high) to give us time. General Schweinitz,
+as Doyen, stepped well forward, and made a very low bow. We all bowed
+and curtseyed low (my knees are becoming more supple) and got ourselves
+out backwards. It wasn't very difficult, as we had our trains over our
+arms.
+
+I don't think we shall see anything more curious than that state
+banquet. I certainly shall never see again a soup tureen guarded by
+soldiers with drawn swords.
+
+    10 o'clock.
+
+We dined quietly, everyone giving his experiences--of course the younger
+members of the Embassy, who had no places in the church, had a better
+impression of the ensemble than we had. They said the excitement
+and emotion of the crowd in the square before the church was
+extraordinary. All crossed themselves, and many cried, when the cannon
+told them that the Emperor was crowned. They seem to be an emotional,
+superstitious race. They also said the procession around the courts,
+when the Emperor and Empress were going to the various churches, was
+wonderful--a moving mass of feathers, jewels, banners, bright helmets,
+and cuirasses, all glittering in the sun.
+
+After dinner we drove about a little, seeing the illuminations, but the
+crowd was so dense we could hardly move, though the soldiers did all
+they could, and battered the people about. Then it began to rain a
+little, so I begged to come home. It is raining quite hard now--I
+hear it on the marquise. Heavens how tired I am.
+
+Of course I can't write half of what I have seen, but the papers will
+keep you quite au courant. Some of the newspaper correspondents were in
+the church, and of course plenty in the tribunes outside. Our carriages
+certainly made a great effect, and we were cheered various times on our
+way home.
+
+Madame Hubert talks so much she can hardly get me my things. She is as
+much pleased with her husband's appearance as I am with mine. What an
+experience for them, when you think that she had never been out of
+Villers-Cotterets and Bourneville when she came to us, and Paris seemed
+a Paradise.
+
+    #Ambassade de France a Moscou#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Monday, May 28th, 1883.
+
+We were all again in Court dress at 11 this morning to go to the Palace
+and present our felicitations to the Imperial couple. I wore the same
+blue dress, as my pink one goes on to-night for the "courtag" at the
+Palace. It seems there was some misunderstanding about our being
+received this morning, so some of our colleagues had come, and gone,
+rather put out at the vagueness of the instructions. We decided to
+remain, as we had arrived there in all our finery, particularly as one
+of the chamberlains told us it would be most interesting. Deputations
+from the provinces were to present addresses of felicitation and we
+would see all the national costumes.
+
+As we had some time to wait, the Greek chamberlain suggested that we
+should take advantage of that opportunity to be presented to the Queen
+of Greece. He thought he could arrange it, so he went off to her
+rooms, and presently reappeared with the maid of honour, Mlle.
+Colocotroni (a friend of Gertrude's), and we were taken at once to the
+Queen, who was standing in a small salon overlooking the river. She is
+young and handsome, fair, stoutish, but tall enough to carry it off
+well, and was chatty and sympathetic--said she supposed I was quite
+tired after yesterday, that it was certainly very trying; that the
+person who was the least tired was the Empress. She had met her in one
+of the corridors in the interval between the ceremony at the church, or
+rather the churches (as she went to three after leaving the Assomption).
+She had taken off her Imperial mantle and crown, and was going to see
+one of her numerous relations before beginning again.
+
+As soon as our audience was over we returned to the large audience hall,
+where we found Benckendorff tearing his hair, in a wild state, because
+we were late--all our colleagues had taken their places. However we were
+in time, and ranged ourselves, the ladies all together on the right, the
+men opposite. I was the Doyenne, and stood at the head of the column (as
+neither Lady Thornton nor Mdme. Schweinitz was there). All about the
+room were groups of people from the provinces waiting their turn, but
+there was such a crowd of uniforms and costumes that one could hardly
+distinguish anything.
+
+Presently the Court appeared--the Emperor always in uniform, the Empress
+in a very handsome train, blue velvet, embroidered in gold, and a
+splendid tiara, necklace and front of sapphires. They had the usual
+train of Princes, chamberlains, aides-de-camp, etc. As soon as they had
+taken their places on the platform all the Missions (men) advanced
+according to their rank. The Ambassador made a few steps forward, said a
+few words of felicitation to the Emperor (the Mission remaining at a
+respectful distance behind), then made a low bow, and all retired a
+reculons.
+
+The Austrian Embassy looked very well--the Hungarian uniforms are so
+handsome. The Americans also very well, though they have no uniform,
+wear ordinary black evening clothes. The Admiral and his two
+aides-de-camp of course wore theirs, but it is so quiet, dark blue with
+little lace, and no orders, that one would hardly have remarked it
+except for the epaulettes and aiguillettes.
+
+As soon as all the men of the Corps Diplomatique had passed the Empress
+left her place and came to us. Her train was carried by 4 pages, a high
+official, red velvet and gold lace, carrying the extreme end. She passed
+down the line of ladies, saying something to each one. I heard her speak
+three languages--English, French, and German--quite easily.
+
+We waited until the Court retired, and then there was the usual stampede
+for the carriages. I have not been out again this afternoon. We start
+for our Court ball at 8.45, and of course dine early. I was interrupted
+by Philippe, who came to coiffer me, having as usual stopped in the
+lingerie to inspect my dress, the pink one this time. He tells me he
+began to dress some of the heads for to-night at 12 this morning.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France a Moscou#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Mardi, 29 Mai, 1883.
+
+I will begin my letter while I am waiting to go with some of the
+gentlemen and Benckendorff to see the preparations for the great
+people's fete. I couldn't write last night, I was so tired out. Two
+court dresses and functions, and hours of standing is a good deal for
+one day. We started early, at a quarter to 9. We assembled in the same
+room in the old Kremlin where the Imperial couple had dined this
+afternoon. Almost all our colleagues and some of the swell Russians were
+already there, and everyone moved about, talking and looking until the
+welcome strains of the march told us the Emperor and Empress were
+coming.
+
+One of the chamberlains showed me some of the most curious old bowls and
+flagons. The work is rather rough, and the stones enormous--not well
+cut--but the effect is good, half barbaric. The Court appeared always
+with the same brilliant suite--the Empress looked charming in a pink
+velvet train, embroidered in silver. All the Grand Duchesses in drap
+d'argent, bordered with beautiful black sable.
+
+As soon as the Court arrived the polonaise began; the Emperor making the
+first with Queen of Greece, the Empress with Schweinitz. It was a
+charming sight. All the trains were etalees their full length. The
+gentleman takes his partner's hand, holding it very high, and they
+make a stately progress through the rooms. I didn't dance the first one.
+We had a very good view of the whole thing. It was a beautiful
+sight--the men all in uniform, with orders, and broad ribbons; and the
+women with their trains down the full length. The Russian trains, of
+white and silver bordered with fur, made a great effect.
+
+The Emperor danced (which is a facon de parler only, as one walked
+through the rooms) with the Queen of Greece, Arch Duchess Charles Louis,
+and the Ambassadrices Lady Thornton, Mdme. Jaures, Countess Dudzeele,
+and me--the Empress with the 6 Ambassadors. I danced the second
+polonaise with the Grand Duke Wladimir, who is handsome and spirited
+looking. He told me who many of the people were. In one of the rooms
+were all the Russian women, not in costume, but in ordinary ball dress,
+all, however, wearing the Kakoshnik studded with jewels, and most
+becoming it was.
+
+I was much interested (before my turn came) to see how the ladies got
+back to their places after having been deposited by the Emperor in the
+middle of the room. He doesn't conduct his partner back as all the
+others do. He goes back to his own place, the lady makes a curtsey,
+and gets back to hers across the room backwards as well as she can. They
+seemed to get through all right. I rather enjoyed my polonaise with the
+Emperor. He showed me quantities of people--a splendid man from some
+part of Asia dressed in white, with jewels, coloured stones mostly, all
+down the front of his coat, and pistols in his belt with jewelled hilts.
+Also the Khan of Khiva, with all the front of his high fur cap covered
+with jewels, also his belt, which seemed made entirely of diamonds
+and rubies.
+
+The music was always the march from Glinka's opera; each band in turn
+taking it up as the cortege passed through the rooms. The last Polonaise
+finished about 11.30, and the Court immediately retired. We had no
+refreshments of any kind, and made the same rush for the carriages.
+
+Our rentree to the Embassy is most amusing--the whole Mission precedes
+us, and when we arrive we find them ranged in a semicircle at the foot
+of the staircase, waiting to receive us. Richard says he never
+understood the gulf that separates an Ambassador Extraordinary
+from ordinary mortals until he accompanied his brother to Moscow.
+
+    5 o'clock.
+
+We had rather an interesting afternoon. We met one of the committee at
+the place, sort of great plain, or meadow, where the Fete Populaire is
+to be, near the Petrofski Palace, where the Emperor stayed before he
+made his public entree into Moscow, who showed us everything. There are
+quantities of little sheds or baraques, where everybody (and there will
+be thousands, he tells us) will receive a basket with a meat pate, a
+pate of confitures, a cake, and a package of bonbons. There are also
+great barrels of beer, where everyone can go with a mug and drink as
+much as he can hold.
+
+We asked M. (I forget his name) how it was possible to take precautions
+with such a crowd of people, but he said they anticipated no danger, it
+was the "people's day," which sounded to us rather optimistic. It was
+rather nice driving about.
+
+Now I have just been, at the request of Lhermite, to look at his table,
+as we have our first big dinner to-night (all Russians); all the
+flowers, "Roses de France," have just arrived from Paris--three nights
+on the road; they look quite fresh and beautiful,--were packed alone in
+large hampers. I shall wear my blue tulle ball-dress to-night, as we go
+to the ball at the Governor's Palace after dinner.
+
+    Wednesday, 30th.
+
+Our dinner was pleasant last night. As it was entirely Russian we had
+the curious meal they all take just before dinner. A table was spread in
+the small salon opening into the dining-room, with smoked and salted
+fish, caviare, cucumbers, anchovies, etc. They all partook, and then we
+passed into the dining-room, where the real business began. I sat
+between M. de Giers, Foreign Minister, and Count Worontzoff, Ministre de
+la Cour. They were very pleasant, and rather amusing over the exigencies
+of the suites of the foreign Princes; the smaller the Power the more
+important the chamberlains, equerries, etc.--rather like our own
+experience the year of the Exhibition in Paris, where a Baden equerry, I
+think, was forgotten (which of course was most improper at the Quai
+d'Orsay), and most delicate negotiations were necessary. Both gentlemen
+were very complimentary over the dinner and the flowers--asked where in
+Moscow we had been able to find them, and could hardly believe they had
+arrived this morning, three nights and three days on the road. They were
+beautiful, those lovely pink "Roses de France," which looked quite
+charming with the dark blue Sevres china.
+
+The guests went off about 10; and we half an hour later to the great
+ball. I wore my light blue tulle with silver braid; and I will add that
+I left the greater part of the tulle at the Palace. Happily the silk
+under-skirt was strong, or else I should have stood in my petticoats.
+The crowd and heat was something awful--the staircase was a regular
+bousculade, and I was thankful those big Russian spurs merely tore my
+flounces, and didn't penetrate any further. We finally arrived,
+struggling and already exhausted, in the ballroom, where we found all
+the Grand Dukes and Grand Duchesses already assembled to receive the
+Emperor.
+
+We had some little time to wait, so they all came over and talked to us.
+The Queen of Greece is most attractive--so simple. She noticed that my
+dress was torn and flowers crushed, but said, what was quite true, that
+no one would remark it in the crowd. We soon heard the sound of the
+March, and then there was such a rush towards the door by which the
+Emperor and Empress were to enter that we quickly withdrew into the
+embrasure of the window, and let the torrent pass. They tried to make a
+circle, but it was impossible. The crowd was dense. W. and I made our
+way quickly to the head of the stairs and waited there, as they had told
+us the Emperor would not stay long--merely make a tour through the
+rooms.
+
+They appeared very soon, shook hands with us both, and seemed very glad
+to get away. The Empress was in light blue, with a beautiful diamond
+tiara. It is rather pretty to see the Grand Duke Wladimir _always_ close
+to his brother, to shield him from any danger. We were all rather cross
+when we got home.
+
+This morning I have been shopping with W., Richard, and Pontecoulant. It
+is rather an unsatisfactory performance, as we can't either speak or
+understand Russian. In the bazaars and real Moscow shops they know
+nothing but Russian. We take the little polygot boy with us (always
+ahead in his little droshky) but as he invariably announces "la grande
+Ambassade" we _see_ the prices go up. Some of the enamel and gold and
+silver work is beautiful. Richard was quite fascinated with the
+Madonnas, with their black faces and wands, set in a handsome frame of
+gold, with light blue enamel. He bought two, one for Louise and one for
+me, which I am delighted to have. We bought various little boxes, some
+of lacquer, others in silver, rather prettily worked, and a variety of
+fancy spoons, buckles, etc.
+
+I must stop now and dress. We dine at 6, so as to be at the Opera at 9.
+We shall go "en gala," our three carriages, as it is a fine warm night.
+The detective is a little anxious for to-night (it would be such a good
+opportunity to get rid of all the Russian Princes, to say nothing of the
+foreigners). He and Pontecoulant suggested to W. that I should be left
+at home, but I protested vigorously. If they all go, I am going too. I
+don't feel very nervous, I wonder why; for it really is a little
+uncomfortable--unusual to hesitate about going to the Opera because one
+might be blown up.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    Jeudi, May 31st, 1883.
+
+I was too tired to write last night, though the opera was over fairly
+early. It was a beautiful sight, the house brilliantly lighted and
+crowded, nothing but uniforms, orders, and jewels. There was one dark
+box, which of course attracted much attention; the Americans--all the
+men in black, except the three naval officers--(we were acclames all
+along the route, and I must say Leroy and Hubert looked very well in
+their tricornes and powdered wigs). I wore the creme embroidered velvet
+with blue satin front, tiara, and blue feathers in my hair. I fancy
+Philippe had made a sort of tower on the top of my head, but he again
+assured me I must have a "coiffure de circonstance."
+
+The square before the Opera was brilliantly lighted (they certainly
+light most beautifully in Russia--thousands of candles everywhere), a
+red carpet down, and quantities of palms and flowers--always also
+quantities of gilded gentlemen. We didn't wait very long for the
+Court to appear--about a quarter of an hour--and were much taken up
+looking at everything, and everybody, and trying to recognize our
+friends. A large box at one end of the house, opposite the stage, was
+reserved for the Royalties, all draped of course in red and gold.
+
+Everyone rose when the Emperor and Empress arrived, always with their
+brilliant cortege of Princes. One of the most striking uniforms was the
+Prince of Montenegro's, but they all made a fine show, and a most
+effective background for the women--the orchestra playing the Russian
+Hymn, the chorus singing it, all the house applauding, and all eyes
+fixed on the Royal box.
+
+It was really magnificent, and the Emperor looked pleased. They gave the
+first act of Glinka's opera "La Vie pour le Czar." When the curtain fell
+the whole house rose again; when the Emperor and Empress left their box
+there was a general movement among the people, and some of our
+colleagues had come to pay us a visit when Count Worontzoff (Ministre de
+la Cour) appeared and said, "Sa Majeste" hoped we would come and have
+tea with her, and he would have the honour of showing us the way; so he
+gave me his arm and took me to the foyer, which was very well arranged
+with flowers, plants, and red carpets.
+
+There were several round tables. He took me to the Empress' table, where
+were the Queen of Greece, Grand Duchesses Constantine and Wladimir, Lady
+Thornton, and Madame Jaures; also Nigra, Schweinitz, and a brother of
+the Shah de Perse. The Empress looked so young, in white, with a broad
+red ribbon, and splendid diamonds. The Queen of Greece was charming,
+asked me if I ever found time to write to Francis. The Emperor didn't
+sit down--he walked about between the tables, and talked to everybody.
+
+We stayed, I should think, about half an hour at the tea-table, and then
+went back to the theatre. The ballet was long, but interesting, all the
+mazurkas of the Empire were danced in costume. We got our carriages
+easily enough, and the arrangements were good. The younger members of
+the Mission who didn't go for tea with the Empress found the entr'acte
+long.
+
+    Saturday, June 2d.
+
+I couldn't write yesterday, Dear, for I was in bed until dinner-time,
+thoroughly tired out. Neither W. nor I went to the ball on Thursday
+night given by the "Noblesse de Moscou." I hoped to be able to go to the
+ball of the German Embassy last night, but I couldn't do that either. I
+felt rather better about 6 o'clock, and sent for my dress, as W.
+particularly wanted me to go, but the minute I stood up and tried to
+dress I was half fainting, so there was no use persisting.
+
+The fatigue has been something awful, and the hours of standing have
+made it impossible to put on my Paris shoes, and I have been obliged to
+buy white satin _boats_ at one of the Moscow shoemakers. The bootmakers
+will make his fortune, as it seems everybody is in the same state. The
+Empress even can't wear her usual shoes, and all the women have left off
+coquettish little shoes that match their dresses, and taken to these
+rather primitive chaussures.
+
+W. and all the gentlemen went to the ball, and said it was very
+handsome--everything, silver, supper, servants, etc., had been sent from
+Berlin. Madame Schweinitz, who has a young baby, arrived from Petersburg
+the morning of the ball. Count Eulenbourg--one of the German Emperor's
+Maitres des Ceremonies--had also arrived to decide about the questions
+of precedence, place, etc. The Court remained to supper, so of course
+the Ambassadors were obliged to stay. W. got home at 2 o'clock, very
+late for this country, where everything begins early.
+
+Richard and Pontecoulant are getting great friends. Pontecoulant
+blagues[5] him all the time--says he is getting a perfect courtier, and
+that his electors in the Seine Inferieure would be scandalized if they
+could see him. I must dress now for the "Fete Populaire," and will write
+more when I get back.
+
+[5] Teases.
+
+    9 o'clock.
+
+I have retired to my own quarters. W. dines with Nigra, so I have
+remained in my dressing-room, as I have still a "fond de fatigue." The
+Fete Populaire was interesting. The day has been beautiful, and
+there was not a hitch of any kind. The drive out was interesting, on
+account of the people, a steady stream of peasants of all ages going the
+same way. We went at once to the Loge Imperiale, a large pavilion
+erected at the entrance facing the great plain. The space was so
+enormous that one hardly distinguished anything. The booths and towers
+looked like little spots, and they were very far off. The Emperor and
+Empress never left the Loge. He certainly didn't go down and walk about
+among the people, as some enthusiastic gentlemen had told us he would.
+Of course all the same people were assembled in the Loge--Diplomatists,
+Court officials, officers, etc. There was a cold lunch always going on.
+
+There were many white dresses--all Russian women wear white a great deal
+at any age. The Princess Kotchoubey--78 years old--who put the Imperial
+mantle on the Empress the day of the sacre, and who had done the same
+thing for the late Empress, was dressed entirely in white, bonnet,
+mantle, everything.
+
+The Court remained about an hour, and we left as soon as they did. There
+was some little delay getting our carriages, but on the whole the thing
+was well managed. Already some people were coming away looking very
+smiling, and carrying their baskets most carefully. I will bring you one
+of the mugs they gave me with the chiffre of the Emperor and Empress,
+and the date.
+
+    Sunday, June 3d.
+
+I stayed at home all the morning, quite pleased to have nothing to do.
+This afternoon W., Pontecoulant, and I went for a little turn. We got
+out of the carriage at the Kremlin, and walked about, having a quiet
+look at everything. The view from the terrace was enchanting, the
+afternoon sun lighting up all the curious old buildings, and bringing
+out the colours of everything.
+
+This evening we have had a diplomatic dinner. I was between Schweinitz
+and Sir Edward Thornton. Both of them talked a great deal. After dinner
+I talked some time to Hunt, whom I like very much. He says many people,
+Russians particularly, couldn't understand why he didn't wear his
+uniform--"ce n'est pas tres poli pour nous." They can't conceive that
+the representative of a great Power shouldn't be attired in velvet and
+gold like all the rest of the Embassies.
+
+The table was again covered with pink roses. They just last through the
+dinner, and fall to pieces as soon as they are taken out of the vases.
+Some of them looked so fresh, not even in full bloom, that I thought I
+could send some French roses to Countess Pahlen, and the moment we left
+the dining-room Lhermite took them off the table, but they fell to
+pieces in his hands, covering the floor with their petals.
+
+    Monday, June 4th.
+
+This morning we have been photographed in the court-yard--the whole
+establishment, gala carriages, servants, horses, moujiks, maids, cooks,
+etc. First there was the "classic" group of the Mission, W. and I seated
+in front, with all the gentlemen standing around us. It was very long
+getting the poses all right so as to show everybody in an advantageous
+light; and as it is (judging from the cliche) Francois de Corcelle looks
+as if he was throttling me. Then came the group of the whole party, and
+it was amusing to see how eager the Russian maids and the stable-men
+were to be well placed. They stood as still as rocks. We waited a little
+to see the gala carriages and horses taken, but that was too long. The
+horses were nervous, and never were quiet an instant. Now someone has
+gone to get a drum--they think the sudden noise may make them all look
+in the same direction for a moment.
+
+W. and I have been out for a turn--to the Kremlin of course, which is
+really the most interesting part of Moscow. There is always the same
+crowd hurrying and jostling each other. We went all over St. Basile. The
+inside is curious, with a succession of rooms and dark recesses, but the
+outside is unique; such an agglomeration of domes, steeples,
+bell-towers; all absolutely different in shape and colour--perfectly
+barbarous, but very striking.
+
+W. enjoys our quiet afternoon drives, the perpetual representation,
+seeing always the same people, and saying and hearing the same things,
+is beginning to tire him. It is a curious life. We see nothing but the
+Court and the people--no haute bourgeoisie nor intermediate class, and
+yet they exist, people in finance and commercial affairs. They certainly
+have had no part in the show--I should think there must be great
+discontent. The young generation certainly will never be satisfied to
+be kept entirely out of everything. Some of them have travelled, been
+educated in England, have handsome houses, English horses, etc., but
+apparently they don't exist--at least we have never seen any.
+
+I must stop, as we dress and dine early for the Palace Ball. My Dear, my
+dress is frightfully green (Delannoy's green velvet coat over pink
+tulle). Of course we chose it by candle-light, when it looked charming;
+but as we dress and start by daylight I am rather anxious. I consulted
+Pontecoulant, who came in just as the maids were bringing it in. He
+said, "C'est bien vert, Madame." Let us hope that the light of thousands
+of wax candles may have a subduing effect.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Ambassade de France, Moscow#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    June 5, 1883.
+
+The Palace ball was quite beautiful last night. I had some misgivings as
+to my dress until we got to the Palace, as the gentlemen of the Embassy
+had evidently found me _very green_ when we assembled in the great hall
+before starting; however as soon as we arrived in the big room of the
+Palace where we were all marshalled, Countess Linden (an American born)
+said to me at once "Oh, Mdme. Waddington, how lovely your pink roses
+look on the _dark blue_ velvet," so I knew it was all right. I wore that
+dress of Delannoy's which she was sure would be most effective--pink
+tulle skirts--with a green velvet habit (chosen of course by
+candle-light) so that it did look very green by daylight, and a wreath
+of pink roses round the decollete. I remember both Henrietta and Pauline
+were a little doubtful--but it certainly made more effect than any dress
+I wore except the blue manteau de cour. I will tell Delannoy. We always
+go in by a special side entrance to these Palace functions, which is a
+pity, as we miss the grand staircase, which they told us was splendid
+with red carpets, soldiers, and gold-laced gentlemen to-night. We waited
+some time, an hour certainly, before the Court came, but as all the
+Corps Diplomatique were assembled there it was pleasant enough, and we
+all compared our experiences and our fatigue, for everybody was dead
+tired--the men more than the women.
+
+The rooms are magnificent--very high, and entirely lighted by wax
+candles--thousands; one of the chamberlains told me how many, but I
+would scarcely dare to say. The Court arrived with the usual ceremony
+and always the same brilliant suite of officers and foreign Princes. The
+Emperor and Empress looked very smiling, and not at all tired. She was
+in white, with splendid diamonds and the broad blue ribbon of St. Andre.
+He always in uniform. As soon as they appeared the polonaises began,
+this time three only, which the Emperor danced with the ladies of the
+family. I danced the first with the Grand Duke Wladimir. He is charming
+and amiable, but has a stern face when he isn't smiling. I think if the
+Russians ever feel his hand it will be a heavy one. I danced the second
+with the Grand Duke Alexis, and looked on at the third. It was not
+nearly so fine a sight as the Court ball at the old palace. _There_ the
+mixture of modern life and dress and half barbaric costumes and
+ornamentations was so striking; also the trains made such an effect,
+being all etaled one was obliged to keep a certain distance, and that
+gave a stately air to the whole thing which was wanting last night when
+all the women were in ordinary ball dress, not particularly long, so
+that the cortege was rather crowded and one saw merely a mass of
+jewelled heads (the dress was lost). Also they merely walked around the
+ballroom, not going through all the rooms as we did at the old palace.
+
+When the polonaises were over there were one or two waltzes. The Empress
+made several turns, but with the Princes only, and we stood and looked
+on.
+
+While we were waiting there until someone should come and get us for
+some new function I heard a sort of scuffle behind me and a woman's
+impatient voice saying in English "I can't bear it another moment," and
+a sound of something falling or rolling across the floor. I turned
+round and saw Mdme. A---- (a secretary's wife, also an American)
+apparently struggling with something, and very flushed and excited. I
+said, "What is the matter?" "I am kicking off my shoes." "But you can
+never put them on again." "I don't care if I never see them again--I
+can't stand them another minute." "But you have to walk in a cortege to
+supper with the Imperial party." "I don't care at all, I shall walk in
+my stockings," then came another little kick, and the slipper
+disappeared, rolling underneath a heavy damask curtain. I quite
+sympathized with her, as my beautiful white slippers (Moscow
+manufacture) were not altogether comfortable, but I think I should not
+have had the strength of mind to discard them entirely. When I was
+dressing, Adelaide tried to persuade me that I had better put on the
+pink satin slippers that matched my dress; but my experience of the
+hours of standing at all Russian Court functions had at least taught me
+not to start with anything that was at all tight.
+
+While we were looking at the dancing the Grand Duke Michel came over and
+asked me if I wouldn't come and stand a little with the Grand Duchesses.
+He took me to a little group where were the Grand Duchesses Michel and
+Constantine and the Queen of Greece (she is always so gay and natural).
+They at once asked me who had made my dress, and what color it was. They
+had been talking about it, and couldn't agree. The Grand Duchess
+Constantine had on her emeralds, and beautiful they were--blocks of
+stone, rather difficult to wear. She must have been very handsome, has
+still a beautiful figure, and holds herself splendidly.
+
+We talked music a little--she said I ought to hear some of the people's
+songs. I should like to very much, but there doesn't seem any place
+where one can hear the national songs. The men of the Embassy went one
+night to the "Hermitage," where there was a little of everything, and
+did hear some of the peasants singing their national airs, but they
+didn't seem to think I could go. While we were still talking there was a
+move, and they said the Empress (who had been dancing all the time in
+a small circle made for her at her end of the ballroom and very strictly
+kept) was going to have tea. All the Court and suite followed, and I was
+rather wondering how to get back to my place and my colleagues when a
+tall aide-de-camp came up and said he would have the honour of
+conducting me to Her Majesty's tea--so we started off across several
+rooms and corridors, which were crowded, and arrived at a door where the
+two gigantic negroes were standing. He said something--the doors flew
+open--he made me a low bow and retired (as he couldn't come any
+farther), and I found myself standing alone in a large room with four or
+five tables--everyone seated. For a moment I didn't know quite what
+to do, and felt rather shy, but the Princess Kotchoubey, Grande
+Maitresse, who was standing in the middle of the room, came forward at
+once and took me to the Duchesse d'Edimbourg's table, where there were
+also the Arch-Duchess Charles Louis, the Duchess of Oldenburg, a young
+Hessian Prince, and my two colleagues, Lady Thornton and Madame Jaures.
+
+We had tea and ices--didn't talk much, except the Duchess of Edinburgh,
+who seems clever and ready to talk--but I wasn't near her. I didn't see
+all the Ambassadors, mine certainly wasn't there, and of course very
+few comparatively of our colleagues, as only Ambassadors and their wives
+were invited to Her Majesty's tea (no small fry, like Ministers).
+
+I had the explanation of W.'s absence later. When the Court moved off to
+tea General Wolseley suggested that W. should come and smoke a cigar in
+his room. He was lodged at the Kremlin with his Prince, the Duke of
+Edinburgh. He, like a true Briton, had enough of bowing and standing. W.
+was naturally quite of the same opinion, so they picked up Admiral
+Seymour (also with the Duke of Edinburgh) and had a very pleasant hour
+smoking and talking until they were summoned for supper. _That_ they
+couldn't get out of, as we made a fine procession directly behind the
+Court through all the rooms to St. George's Hall--a great white high
+room magnificently lighted, with tablets all around the walls with the
+names of the Knights of the Order of St. George who had died in battle,
+and a souper assis for 800 people. Sir Edward Thornton, British
+Ambassador, took me. As we were parading through the rooms between two
+hedges of gaping people looking at the cortege, dresses, diamonds, etc.,
+I thought of Mdme. A---- and her stockings, and wondered how she was
+getting on. I daresay quite well; as she had a yellow satin dress and
+yellow silk stockings perhaps no one noticed anything, and as long as
+she didn't step on a needle or anything sharp she was all right. Someone
+will find a nice little pair of yellow satin shoes under the
+window-curtains in the ballroom when the cleaning up is done after the
+fetes.
+
+The hall was a blaze of light and jewels--a long table across the end
+for the Imperial party, and all of us at two long tables running the
+whole length of the room. The gold and silver plate was very handsome,
+particularly the massive flambeaux and high ornaments for the middle of
+the table. The supper was good, hot, and quickly served. There was music
+all the time--singers, men and women, in a gallery singing all sorts of
+Russian airs which nobody listened to. The Emperor did not sit down to
+supper. He remained standing in the middle of the room talking to his
+gentlemen, and a few words to the diplomatists when supper was over and
+one loitered a little before going back to the ballroom. He certainly
+doesn't care to talk to strangers--seeks them out very little, and when
+he does talk it is absolutely banal. Is it "paresse d'esprit" or great
+reserve?--one hardly knows. I should think all this parade and function
+bored him extremely. They say he is very domestic in his tastes, and
+what he likes best is the country with his wife and children.
+
+After supper we went back to the ballroom for about half an hour. Then
+the Court retired and we followed them at once. We got our carriages
+fairly quickly. There are always crowds in the streets waiting to see
+the grand-monde pass. The Kremlin looks fairy-like as we drive
+through--lights everywhere, some high, high up in a queer little octagon
+green tower--then a great doorway and staircase all lighted, with
+quantities of servants and soldiers standing about; then a bit of rough
+pavement in a half dark court and under a little low dark gate with a
+shrine and Madonna at one end--all so perfectly unmodern, and unlike
+anything else.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I began my letter this morning before breakfast, but didn't finish, as I
+was called off by some visits, and now I will try and send this off by
+to-night's courier. We have had a nice afternoon looking at the Tresor.
+Of course it was very hurried--it would take weeks to see everything.
+The collection of state carriages and sleighs is interesting. Almost all
+the carriages are French--either given to the various Russian Sovereigns
+by French Kings, or ordered in France by the Sovereigns themselves. The
+great sledge in which Catharine II. made all her long voyages is
+comfortable enough, and not unlike the "wagons imperiaux" in which we
+travelled from Varsovie to Moscow.
+
+Then we saw all the Coronation robes, crowns, sapphires, swords,
+jewelled belts and collars, furs, etc., of all the old Emperors from
+Ivan the Terrible down to the late Emperor. Some of the crowns of the
+first Ivans and Peters are extraordinary--a sort of high fur cap
+covered with jewels, but heavy and roughly made--the jewels always
+beautiful, such large stones, particularly sapphires and rubies. There
+were vitrines full of splendid gold and silver cups and dishes, presents
+to the Emperor from all the different provinces.
+
+They tell us the present Emperor has had magnificent things given to
+him, but we have not seen them yet. We met various people also going
+through the Museum, and I had quite a talk with Radziwill (you know
+which one I mean, who married Countess Malatesta's daughter). It seemed
+funny to go back to the old Roman days, and the evenings (prima-sera) in
+the Malatesta Palace. He says everybody is worn out with the ceremonies
+and the standing--however, to-night is the end, with our dinner at the
+Palace.
+
+I have again been interrupted--this time by a visit from the Duc
+d'Aoste, whom I always find charming. He is not at all expansive and
+very shy, but when one breaks the ice he is interesting. He doesn't look
+like anybody else, nor as if he belonged to this century. It is quite
+the face one would see in any old Spanish picture--a soldier-monk of
+Velasquez. He talked about the Exhibition of '78, when W. was at the
+Foreign Office, and I was almost tempted to tell him how embarrassed
+we all were on the opening day when there were so many Ex-Spanish
+Sovereigns--King Francois d'Assises, Queen Isabella, and King Amedee.
+There was a big reception in the evening at the Elysee, and the
+Marechal[6] was rather bothered with all his Spanish Royalties. However,
+Queen Isabella and the Duc d'Aoste were evidently on the best of terms.
+I saw them talking together, and I believe all the Spaniards liked
+d'Aoste, though naturally they wanted a King of their own race.
+
+[6] MacMahon, President at that time of the French Republic.
+
+Here is Monsieur Philippe for his last coiffure, as he says somewhat
+sadly. To-night's dinner is our last function. We have then the revue,
+by daylight, of course, and leave on Sunday for Petersburg.
+
+    Wednesday, June 6th.
+
+The gala dinner was handsome and _short_ last night. W. and I went off
+alone (none but chefs de mission were invited) in the coupe d'Orsay,
+always with Benckendorff in his carriage in front--W. in uniform, I in
+my white and silver brocade, white feathers and diamonds in my hair, no
+colour anywhere, not even on my cheeks, which reduces Philippe to a
+state of prostrate stupefaction--"Madame qui pourrait etre si bien."
+
+We were received at the foot of the staircase and at the doors by all
+the Chamberlains as usual and taken at once to the same Salle St. George
+where we were to dine--all at the Imperial table this time--about 500
+couverts. We were shown at once our seats--all the places were marked,
+and we stood waiting behind our chairs (like the footmen) for the Court
+to appear. I found myself seated between the Duc d'Aoste and the young
+Crown Prince of Sweden, so I was quite satisfied. One of my colleagues
+was very anxious I should change the papers--give her my Duke and take
+her's, who was never civil to her, but would be perhaps to me, but I
+demurred, as I knew mine would be nice, and I didn't know her's at all.
+I don't think he was very nice to her, certainly didn't talk much, but
+perhaps he never does.
+
+We didn't wait very long. The Court was fairly punctual--the Empress
+looked very nice, all in white with diamonds. She had on her right the
+Duc d'Edimbourg (who always had the place of honour), and on her left
+the Prince Waldemar de Danemark, her brother. The Emperor had the Queen
+of Greece on his right, the Arch Duchess Charles Louis on his left. The
+dinner wasn't bad, and was quickly served. The fish were enormous,
+served on large silver dishes as big as boats. There was always that
+curious Russian soup with all sorts of nondescript things floating about
+on the surface. The Duc d'Aoste was as nice as possible--said the Court
+officials would be enchanted when everything was over, and all the
+foreign Princes safely back in their own countries, that the question of
+etiquette was something awful. As soon as the Russian Court decided
+anything all the others immediately protested--used all sorts of
+precedents, and complicated matters in every way. I suggested that he
+himself was difficult to place on account of the Duc de Montpensier, who
+was here as a Spanish Prince, husband of the Infanta. He replied
+"Absolument pas--je suis ici comme prince italien, frere du roi,"
+declining any sort of Spanish souvenir.
+
+When dinner was over we passed into the salle St. Andre for coffee, and
+that was funny too. As soon as the Emperor and Empress made the move all
+our Dukes and Princes got up at once, and joined the Imperial
+procession, and we followed all in a heap. There we had a pleasant half
+hour, the Empress and the Grand Duchesses came over and talked to us,
+hoped we were not tired, that we had been interested, etc. I said to the
+Grand Duchess Constantine that they must be enchanted to be at the end
+of their functions, and to get rid of us all--but she said not at all.
+She herself was much less tired than when she began. She asked me what I
+had found the most striking in all the ceremonies. I said certainly the
+Coronation--first the moment when the Emperor crowned himself--the only
+figure standing on the dais, and afterwards when he crowned the Empress,
+she kneeling before him.
+
+The Empress asked me if I was going straight back to France, but she
+didn't say, as so many of the others did, "Ce n'est pas adieu pour vous,
+Mdme. Waddington, mais au revoir, car vous reviendrez certainement."
+Admiral Jaures having already resigned many people think W. will be the
+next Ambassador, but he certainly won't come.
+
+About 9 the Court retired. We had dined at 7, so the whole thing took
+about two hours. It was quite light when we came out of the Palace, and
+when we got back to the Maison Klein we found the Embassy just finishing
+dinner, still in the dining-room. We sat a few minutes with them telling
+our experiences. W. had been next to the Grand Duchess Michel, who was
+very animated and intelligent, and extremely well posted in all literary
+and political matters, and fairly just for a Princess speaking about a
+Republic.
+
+Poor Pontecoulant has had a telegram telling him of his brother's death.
+He is very much upset, and goes off to-night. W. will miss him
+extremely--he was his right-hand man. I have been out this morning
+shopping with Francois de Courcelle. It isn't easy, as our Russian is
+not fluent, but still we managed to find a few things.
+
+This afternoon I have been with Lagrene (Consul), Sesmaisons, Corcelle,
+and Calmon to the great institution of the "Enfants Trouves" fondee par
+l'Imperatrice Catherine II. There we found Admiral Jaures and all his
+staff, and a director who showed us all over the establishment--of
+course everything was in perfect order, and perfectly clean (and I
+believe it always is), but I should have preferred not having our visit
+announced, so as to see the every-day working of the thing. We went
+through quantities of rooms. In all, the Russian nurses with their high
+head-dress (kakoshnik), the colour of the room, were standing, and
+showed us most smilingly their babies. The rooms are all known by their
+colours and the nurses dressed to correspond. All pink kakoshniks, for
+instance, in the pink room, blue in the blue room, etc. It was rather
+effective when all the women were standing in groups. The nurses were
+decidedly young, some rather pretty faces, almost all fair. The
+surveillante is a nice, kindly looking woman. We saw the whole ceremony.
+In one of the rooms of the rez-de-chaussee we saw several women waiting
+to take the children. The operation is always the same--one writes down
+at once the name and age of the child (which is generally written on a
+piece of paper pinned on to the clothes), they are always very young, 5
+or 6 days old. Then they are undressed, weighed, and carried off by one
+of the nurses, wrapped up in a blanket, to a bath. After the bath they
+are dressed in quite clean, nice garments, and the nurse gives them
+the breast at once. All the rooms, dortoirs, salles-debain, laundries,
+kitchens, are as clean as possible, plenty of light and air, and no
+smells. We met Countess Pahlen going out as we came in, also the Arch
+Duke Charles Louis.
+
+As we still had time before dinner we went to see the new church of St.
+Sauveur, where there is to be a great ceremony of consecration
+to-morrow; but as it is principally to celebrate the retreat of the
+French Army from Moscow the two French Embassies abstain from that
+function. We met there Prince Dolgourouky, Governor of Moscow, who did
+the honours, and showed us the marbles, which are very varied and
+handsome, all from the provinces of the Empire. The place was full of
+workmen putting up tribunes, red and gold draperies, etc., but the
+Prince, with much tact, made no allusion to to-morrow's function--so we
+apparently didn't notice anything unusual in the church, and
+concentrated our attention on the beautiful Russian marble.
+
+    11 o'clock.
+
+I will finish to-night. We have had our second diplomatic dinner, and I
+found it pleasant, I hope the guests did. I had Mgr.[7] Vannutelli, the
+Nonce, next to me. He is charming--such an easy talker. He arrived after
+the sacre, as of course he could take no part in the ceremony. He told
+me the dream of his life was to come to Paris, and I think he would have
+a great success. He and Prince Orloff talked very easily together, and
+Orloff told him he ought to come to Paris. Orloff also says that W.
+ought to come back here as Ambassador, that he would be decidedly a
+"persona grata," but that isn't W.'s impression. He has talked to a good
+many men who are about the Court and the Emperor, and he thinks a
+soldier, not a political man, would be a much better appointment. We
+shall miss Pontecoulant awfully. He is so easy-going and looks after
+everything, always smoothing things over--very necessary in a temporary
+Embassy like this where all pull apart a little, and there is a sort of
+dull friction and rivalry between the soldiers and the diplomatists. It
+is funny to live entirely with a quantity of men, but they are all
+charming to me.
+
+[7] Now cardinal.
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France, Moscow#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Thursday, June 7th, 1883.
+
+W. and I have had such a quiet conjugal day that we can hardly believe
+we are still "Ambassadeur Extraordinaire." We breakfasted tete-a-tete,
+as all the gentlemen have gone off to the Convent of St. Serge, which is
+one of the things to see here. They have a very fine tresor. The Emperor
+and Empress made retraite there before the sacre. After breakfast W.
+looked over his despatches, and I played a little some Russian music
+which Benckendorff had given me.
+
+About three we started off for "les Moineaux," a hill near Moscow from
+which Napoleon had his first view of the city. There was no sun, which
+was a pity, as all the colour of Moscow makes it so original and
+different from everything else--however the city looked mysterious and
+poetical in a sort of pink brume. We met various colleagues going the
+same way--Nigra always in his "Troika" (Russian attelage) and the Hunts.
+Nigra came and joined us on the terrace, and we had tea together. They
+offered us a great many things, but we declined experiments, and kept on
+saying "Tchai" (which means tea), until they brought it. Nigra told W.
+he should taste the peculiar brandy of the country which all
+drink--prince and peasant--but I think W. did not like it much. Nigra
+was most agreeable. He is Italian Ambassador to Petersburg, and knows
+everybody. He says Russian Society is rather fermee, unless you take
+their ways and hours. All the ladies receive late, after the theatres,
+every evening. It is quite informal--a cup of tea, very often music, and
+really interesting talk. He says the women are remarkably intelligent
+and cultivated--en masse cleverer than the men. I wonder if he would go
+as far about them as Lord Lyons did about American women. When he came
+back from America he said he had _never_ met a stupid American woman. We
+had a pleasant hour on the terrace, and then started home again.
+
+We crossed the Empress driving with her brother, Prince Waldemar, in an
+ordinary open carriage (harnessed Russian fashion--the three horses) and
+with no escort nor _apparent_ policemen of any kind. She looked very
+well and smiling, and so young. There was not much movement on the
+road--a few carriages and peasant's carts. As soon as we got into Moscow
+we fell at once into the same staring, quiet crowd; but I fancy many
+people have already gone. The streets were not nearly so full.
+
+I had just time to dress, and dined alone with the gentlemen. W. and
+General Pittie dined with the Nonce, Mgr. Vannutelli, and were to go to
+Countess Pahlen's reception afterwards. The expedition to the Convent
+seems to have been very successful, but long. They gave them breakfast
+in the refectory--a very frugal meal--and showed them all their
+treasures. I stayed a little while in the serre while they were smoking.
+Now they have all gone out and I am not sorry to finish my evening
+quietly in my little boudoir. I am getting quite accustomed to my little
+room, with its ugly green and gold silk furniture (quite hideous, such a
+bright, hard green). The chairs and sofa are so heavy it takes two of us
+to move them. There are quantities of tables and candles (40 or 50 at
+least, no lamps of any description), in branches, double candlesticks,
+etc. I have great difficulty in persuading the little Russian maid not
+to light them all, all the time; and when I have about 12 to dress by
+she evidently considers me in the dark absolutely. I _think_ I have
+dressed sometimes with two, quite contented, in the old days.
+
+    Friday, June 8th.
+
+I walked about a little with Corcelle this morning. We went into one fur
+shop where we found a woman who spoke French, but there was nothing very
+tempting. They all advise us to wait for our furs at Petersburg, all the
+best furs are sent there--however we bought a very good fur lining for a
+driving coat (each of us) and I a fur couverture--principally I think
+because the woman was nice, and it was a pleasure to talk ourselves and
+not through the little boy of the Consulate, of whom I am by no means
+sure.
+
+At 10 o'clock W. had his farewell audience with the Emperor, but it
+wasn't particularly interesting--an insignificant conversation--might
+have been any emperor, or any ambassador, of any country.
+
+After breakfast we went out again "en bande" with a new polyglot youth
+this time--a young Frenchman whom Lhermite had discovered. He took us to
+all sorts of places, small shops and bazaars, where we had never been.
+We bought a good many things, Circassian belts and buckles of wrought
+silver, some studded with turquoises, some enamelled--pretty
+work--Russian chains and crosses, small Madonnas in curious brass
+frames--always the black face on a gold ground, and several of those
+beautiful, light Orenburg shawls, so fine that they pass through a ring
+(we all tried) and yet fairly large and warm when one shakes them out to
+the full size. It was rather amusing going in and out of all the
+funny little shops. We left the carriage in one of the big streets and
+walked about.
+
+Now we have come home. I have had my tea alone to-day. I must dress, as
+we dine early, 7 o'clock, on account of our reception afterwards. I went
+with Lhermite to see the flowers, fruit, bonbons, petits fours, etc.,
+which arrived this morning from Paris. It is extraordinary how fresh
+they all look. There are dozens of boxes in the dining-room and office,
+and the men are putting the flowers all about the rooms, Lhermite
+superintending the whole thing. He is an enormous help--I don't know
+what we should have done without him.
+
+I am going to wear my white and silver brocade to-night, the one I wore
+at the Palace gala dinner--my last _full dress_ in Moscow. I am rather
+shaken by my outing this afternoon--the going in some of those crooked
+little old streets was something awful. The holes in the so-called
+pavement were appalling, and the paving-stones tapered off generally to
+a sharp point. I think nothing but a Russian carriage, driven by a
+Russian coachman could have got along. I must say it is a straggling,
+queer-looking town once you get out of the Kremlin and the main streets.
+The houses are very far apart, generally white and low, with large
+gardens, like a big overgrown village.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Well, Dear, our reception is over. It is ended early, as everything does
+here--and as I am wide awake I will write at once. People began to come
+about 9.30, and at 11.30 everyone had gone. The rooms looked well,
+quantities of lights and flowers, everyone noticed the flowers (there
+are so few here), which were heaped up everywhere on consoles,
+mantelpieces, wherever one could put them. We had a great many
+people--all our colleagues in full force, but not so many Russians as we
+expected. A good many were de service at the Palace, where there was a
+function of some kind for Russians only (the provinces), and I am sure
+many never received their invitations, as it is impossible to find out
+where anyone lives. I had a talk with General Richter and one or two
+others, and then some of the younger members of the party suggested
+dancing--of course we had no music, as dancing had not been
+contemplated, but various amateurs offered their services, and they had
+about half an hour of waltzes. At the end they danced a little the
+Russian mazurka, which I was very curious to see. It is quite different
+from our cotillon or the Sir Roger de Coverley. There are all sorts of
+steps and figures. The gentleman takes his partner by the hand, holding
+it rather high (as in the polonaise). They hold themselves very
+straight, heads well back, as in a minuet, and do various figures.
+The women have a quick, sliding step when they change partners, which is
+very effective. I should think none but Russians would dance it
+well--one must be born to it.
+
+Prince Orloff stayed on a little after everyone had gone, and we talked
+over all the fetes, and principally our own performances. He says he has
+heard plenty of talk and criticisms of everything, and is much pleased
+with the success of our Mission. I hope the people at home will be
+satisfied.
+
+We had a dinner for all the French newspaper correspondents the other
+day--and they expressed themselves as quite gratified. They told us that
+one of the correspondents (I forget which paper) had accepted W.'s
+invitation, but the very day of the dinner there had been such a violent
+attack on W. in his paper that he didn't like to come, and sent an
+excuse. They say the Times' account is the best--the Figaro also very
+good (Wolff).
+
+    Saturday, June 9, 1883.
+
+The court is most amusing this morning--all the gentlemen are trying
+their horses, superintending the saddling, etc., as most of them follow
+the Emperor to-day at the revue. The little Russian horses look very
+lively and never stand still an instant. W. and I go together in the
+d'Orsay, Corcelle preceding us in another carriage. Benckendorff rides
+with all the others. General Pittie is rather bored, he hates riding,
+particularly on a horse he doesn't know, so he and Fayet will only mount
+at the Champ de Mars. They say the Emperor's suite will be
+enormous--over 100. I wore my ecru batiste with the heavy white
+embroidery and the ecru bonnet with the wreath of pink and red roses. It
+is almost white. (I wonder how I shall ever wear out all these
+garments.)
+
+The day is beautiful. We started about 10, as we were invited for 11 to
+the Tribune Imperiale. The road out was a sight--the middle alley had
+been kept for the swells and Court, and there were quantities of
+Imperial and Ambassadors' carriages, aides-de-camp, etc., dashing about.
+I didn't see any handsome _private_ equipages. They told me the reason
+was that the swells were attached to the Court and went about always in
+Court carriages. Our gentlemen passed us riding--they had rendezvous in
+the court-yard of the Palace Petrofski, where the Emperor mounted. We
+went on to the Tribune. The cortege started fairly punctually. First
+came the Empress in a victoria with four white horses. The Arch Duchess
+Charles Louis was seated next to her, and on the box the Duchesse
+d'Edimbourg and the Grand Duchess Wladimir, I think--at any rate another
+Princess. There were 2 postilions, 2 mounted grooms, and a piqueur. Then
+came the Emperor riding on the right of the Empress's carriage, always
+on his little grey Cossack horse, the Grand Duke Heritier and the Duke
+of Edinburgh directly behind him, and then a long, glittering suite of
+foreign Princes and officers. The Grand Duke Wladimir commands the
+Gardes, and was on the field to receive his brother. It is the first
+time I have seen the Emperor without the Grand Duke Wladimir close
+behind him. It was striking to see the stern, watchful face always
+there. The Empress drove up and down the lines, the Emperor riding
+alongside. It was difficult to distinguish any uniforms, as they were
+rather far off, and there were clouds of dust. As soon as the Empress
+had passed her revue she came up to the Tribune and took up her position
+directly in front, _standing_ almost all the time. The Emperor and his
+staff remained directly under the Tribune to see the defile. That of
+course was long--but we had breakfast, also a sort of gouter always
+going on, and servants appearing at intervals carrying trays with tea,
+chocolate, orangeade, etc. All the Grand Duchesses (not the Empress)
+moved about and talked to us. The Duchesse d'Oldenburg sat down next me
+for some time and told me about some of the regiments (Crimean fame),
+named some of the generals, etc.
+
+I had tea with the Duchess of Edinburgh. She is easy, clever, and was
+much interested in all that was going on, told me I must come to the
+front for the cavalry and Cossack charge, and that it would be soon. I
+followed her when she made the move--the infantry were just
+finishing--and in the distance one saw a movement and a flash of lances
+in the sun, which showed that the Cossacks were getting ready. They
+passed like a whirlwind--so fast, and in such clouds of dust that one
+saw nothing but the glint of the lances, neither colour of uniforms,
+horses, flags. All the troops, infantry as well as cavalry, saluted the
+Emperor as they passed--a sort of dull sound, more like a groan than a
+cheer--nothing like a ringing English hurrah.
+
+That was the end, so I went to the Princess Kotchoubey, Grande
+Maitresse, to ask her if I should go and take leave of the Empress, as
+she and the Emperor leave Moscow to-morrow. She said the Empress wished
+us all, Ambassadrices and femmes de chefs-de-Mission, to stand near the
+door, and she would say good-bye to us on her way out, so we moved down,
+and after waiting a little she came. She made her circle very prettily,
+shook hands with all, and talked a little, but she was evidently tired
+and anxious to get away. She was dressed in a curious dress, a sort of
+yellow cloth of gold, and gold bonnet with red flowers--always her
+splendid pearl necklace.
+
+We had to wait some little time before our carriages could get up, so I
+went back to the front of the Tribune to see the troops disperse. It was
+a pretty sight as they all filed off in long columns, music playing and
+flags flying, and always little groups of Cossacks tearing all over the
+place. I had another cup of tea with a very good little cake while I was
+waiting. Lady Thornton was tired and wanted one, so we sat there quite
+quietly and had our tea. It was a lovely, bright, warm day, and we liked
+that better than waiting at the door in the crowd until our carriages
+came.
+
+[Illustration: Grand Duc Wladimir
+
+From a photograph by Bergamasco St Petersburg]
+
+We got back to the Embassy for breakfast, but were not very hungry. We
+breakfasted alone with Corcelle, as the other gentlemen breakfasted with
+all the Emperor's suite at the Petrofski Palace. I am writing this by
+fits and starts, as you will perceive. I began at 9 this morning, and am
+finishing now at 10.30, after a pleasant dinner at the Jaures--merely
+our two Embassies, everyone telling his experiences, amusing enough. The
+Jaures are quite ready to go. He wants to go to sea again, and will
+command the Mediterranean Squadron, and she is tired of Russia. I have
+no idea who will succeed them, but as long as it isn't W. I don't much
+care.
+
+Well, our fetes are over. We shall have two days to see Moscow quietly,
+and then break up. It has certainly been most interesting, and now that
+it is over, and we all have still our heads on our shoulders, I am very
+glad we came, for I shall never see such a sight again.
+
+    Sunday, June 10th.
+
+Richard and I made an ineffectual attempt to go to the English church
+this morning, but after driving half over Moscow and going to various
+wrong addresses, which had been given to us, we gave it up, and came
+home rather mortified and well jibed at by the whole Embassy. Just as we
+were going to breakfast Prince Ourousoff, one of the Chamberlains,
+appeared to say that two special trains would start for Petersburg on
+Monday and Wednesday to take back the Corps Diplomatique, and asked us
+which day would suit us best. W. preferred Wednesday. W. must have a day
+or two to send off horses, carriages, huissiers, cooks, etc., and also
+to see a little of Moscow, for he has scarcely seen anything. All his
+days were so taken up with the visits--those he made and those he
+received--and his despatches, that he did little but his morning ride on
+his funny little bay horse (which he liked very much and which carried
+him well).
+
+This afternoon we have been sight-seeing with Benckendorff, first to the
+Kremlin to see the private apartments of the Emperor and Empress. The
+Court, with all the foreign Princes and their suites, left last night
+after the revue, and already one sees the difference in the streets. The
+crowd of peasants has disappeared, there are fewer carriages, flags and
+draperies are being removed from all the buildings, and the circulation
+is so easy that one can scarcely realize that only yesterday that
+brilliant throng was making its way with difficulty through the long,
+straight allee to the Champ de Mars. It is very warm, the sun blazing,
+and the white dust very trying; however we went about a good deal. We
+saw the Romanoff house, an ordinary boyar house, with low, dark rooms
+and a funny little winding staircase, but it had evidently been quite
+done up (in the style of the epoch of course), and I didn't find it very
+interesting.
+
+We went into numerous churches and towers, and wound up with a visit to
+the Monastere Siminoff, from where there is a splendid view over the
+city. We saw the Director, who came out and showed us everything. We
+dined quietly at home with the Embassy only. After dinner, when smoking
+in the serre, the soldiers began talking, fighting their battles over
+again--all that horrible time between the Commune and Versailles, where
+one of our Embassy, Fayet, was wounded. It is always interesting when
+they talk seriously like that, but, Heavens, how they shot people at the
+end, it makes one shiver.
+
+To-morrow will be a busy day, as all the packing must be done. One of
+the French couturieres here will send a packer, and will come herself to
+help the maids. Lhermite, with his cooks, footmen, etc., start Wednesday
+morning early. They must cook us our last dinner Tuesday night. Hubert,
+too, with carriages, horses, etc.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France a Moscow#,
+    #Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska#,
+    Monday, June 11th, 1883.
+
+Well, Dear, this is my last letter from Moscow--you will certainly never
+again have any letter from Maison Klein, Malaia Dimitrofska, and I
+suppose I shall never see Moscow again. The court is again most lively
+(it is certainly an unfailing interest to me, and I am always looking
+out of the window). Someone has come from one of the Grand Dukes,
+Michel, I think, to see the big horses. Hawes was very anxious we should
+sell them in Russia, if we could get a fair price. They have always
+excited much attention and admiration, but they are very big, and here
+the Russians are accustomed to a much smaller race, prefer three small
+ones to one larger pair. I don't know either if they could stand the
+climate. There seems to be a perfect army of helpers packing carriages,
+saddles, harness, and all the stable equipment. Mdme. Gille (my
+couturiere) has arrived. She has made me a very nice little blue foulard
+shirt, I couldn't stand my cloth body these hot days, and yet must
+travel in that dress, as I have no other. When I think of the furs that
+have always remained at the bottom of one of the trunks--so many people
+told me that it would be impossible to be in Russia in May and June
+without furs. It is fair to say that Mdme. Jaures told me it was
+freezing still the morning they left Petersburg--which seems incredible
+now. I send back all my big trunks and swell garments with the Huberts.
+I shall keep out only one or two dinner dresses for Petersburg. Poor
+Mdme. Hubert is rather sad at leaving me, and going back to France
+without having seen Petersburg, but of course I don't want two maids any
+longer.
+
+This afternoon I went out with Richard for some last shopping. The city
+is completely changed--not a creature nor a carriage, nor servants in
+livery, nothing but a deserted city. We met the Austrian Ambassador
+walking about in a blue flannel vest and a pot hat. The courts of the
+Kremlin were meconnaissables, not a soul, hardly a soldier--one or two
+small detachments of Cossacks at the gates. It is an extraordinary
+change in such a short time. It has become a sleepy little provincial
+town.
+
+We had two or three gentlemen to dinner, M. d'Orval, ancien officier de
+Chasseurs, just back from a tour in the Caucasus with the Duc de
+Chartres, and a Russian merchant for whom Richard had letters--the first
+person I have seen in Russia who was neither noble nor peasant. Both men
+were interesting enough. The Russian talked prudently, but fairly
+openly--said there must be a great change--things couldn't go on as they
+did now, there was a young generation to be reckoned with, active,
+educated, intelligent, and they must have their say--that when the
+uprising came there would be a Revolution such as Europe had never seen.
+I wonder.
+
+After dinner we went to the Hermitage, the great public gardens. They
+are pretty enough, large, with trees and bosquets, and every variety of
+amusement--theatres, concerts, dancing, and even conjurors. Some
+shepherds from the Wladimir Government with long yellow cloaks and high
+hats were playing a sort of reed pipe, curious enough. At last I heard
+some of the Russian national songs--a quartette was singing them in one
+of the theatres. They are very pretty, monotonous, with an undercurrent
+of sadness. They sang very true, and the voices are rich, not at all the
+thin, high northern voice that one expected to hear. We stayed there so
+long, looking at the various things, that we didn't get home until
+12.30--much the latest entertainment I have been to in Moscow, except
+the Palace ball, where the supper of course prolonged the festivities.
+
+    Monday, June 11th.
+
+It was so warm to-day and I had so much to do with the
+trunks--separating the things--that I only went out after tea, and of
+course did a little more shopping. I wanted some photographs and also
+some music--however Benckendorff said he would see about that for me.
+We dined quite alone with the Embassy--a good dinner perfectly served,
+tho' Lhermite leaves to-morrow. He came up to get his last instructions
+from W. while we were having tea. His experiences are most amusing--he
+says he has learnt a great deal of the language and the Russian ways of
+doing business, and if ever he comes back he will know how to take care
+of himself. He became quite excited at remembering various occasions
+when he had been "roule."
+
+After dinner W. and I went for a last drive, to look at the Kremlin by
+moonlight--and beautiful it was--the sky was so blue one could almost
+see it like the Italian summer sky, and all the great white buildings
+and towers stood out gloriously. The great church of St. Basile was
+extraordinary. The colours, pink, green, red, yellow, all so vivid that
+even at night one quite made them out. It is a mass of towers, domes,
+and cupolas, every one different in shape, work, and colour. It was
+planned and executed by an Italian architect, and the story is that the
+Czar (of the epoch) was so pleased, and at the same time so afraid he
+might make another like it, that he had his eyes put out. It was
+curiously dark and quiet inside--scarcel any light; here and there a
+glimmer high up in one of the Palace rooms. We met two or three
+carriages with colleagues driving about in the moonlight like ourselves.
+The river, too, looked beautiful from the terrace--a broad silver band
+with moonlight full upon it. I took a last look at the black Madonna in
+the gateway, and the little guard of Cossacks. I shall often think
+of that last night in the Kremlin when I have returned to civilization
+and modern life.
+
+I will send this off by to-morrow's courier. My next letter will be from
+Petersburg. My little boudoir still looks very nice. The little Russian
+maid is rather sad, and has been in and out 20 times, lighting candles,
+opening and shutting doors and windows, and keeping up a stream of
+conversation which I can't possibly understand, though the maids say
+they do. W. is deep in last despatches, and has departed to his own
+quarters. I haven't learnt any Russian, which I think is rather weak
+on my part. I thought I would have some lessons at first, but I don't
+think I could have learnt much in two weeks. Lagrene was
+discouraging--says he knows very little, and his mother is a Russian.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Hotel Demouth, Petersburg#,
+    Jeudi, 14 Juin, 1883.
+
+We arrived here last night at 12.30. The journey was comfortable enough,
+but long--the Russian trains do not go a terrifying pace. We left Moscow
+at 9.30, and the Maison Klein a little before 9. The depart was quite
+imposing--all the personnel drawn up at the foot of the stairs, Lhermite
+and the three coachmen outside at the door, and a regiment of
+understrappers of all kinds. The little Russian maid was weeping and
+kissing my skirts. The faithful Benckendorff accompanied us to the
+station and saw us safely deposited in our wagon-salon--each Ambassador
+had one and a smaller one for the suite. Two Chamberlains, not attired
+in velvet and gold lace this time,--I felt rather aggrieved at having
+ordinary mortals in plain clothes to look after us--were waiting at the
+station to see that everything was well done, and they went with us to
+Petersburg. There was a Mongole at the door of our wagon who appeared at
+intervals with tea, oranges, and much information of all kinds (in
+Russian). We had all our meals en route--breakfast at 11, dinner at
+4.30, a nondescript sort of meal, half gouter, half supper, with cold
+fish, fowl, mayonnaise, etc., at 8--and a very pretty little tea at
+10.30. We all partook of every meal--how we managed to eat chicken and
+mayonnaise at 8, having dined at 4.30, seems a mystery, but we did.
+
+It was very hot at starting--the sun pouring down on the plains that are
+around Moscow--not an atom of shade, but there was a sharp shower about
+2 which cooled the air. They tell us Petersburg too is very hot. The
+day passed quickly enough. Many of our colleagues came and paid us
+visits. The Nuncio sat a long time. He is most interesting, with that
+delightful, simple, easy Italian manner. He asked us a great deal about
+the religious ceremony the day of the Coronation. He had only arrived
+after that. He is very clever and sympathetic, ready to talk about
+anything, and so moderate in his views. I think he would have a great
+success in Paris, where people love to discuss and analyze everything.
+
+Our Spanish colleague also came and sat with us. It seems he wanted W.
+to come to his carriage and drink champagne and play cards (very high
+play too), but it was conveyed to him that these were not exactly M.
+Waddington's tastes. Rumour says he was naively surprised, and said,
+"Comment, il ne joue pas!--le pauvre homme!" They were certainly a very
+merry party--we heard roars of laughter every time the train stopped.
+If anyone was losing heavily he took it most cheerfully.
+
+Our last little tea at 10.30 was really very pretty--several round
+tables very well arranged with flowers, tea, orangeade, and other
+drinks--cakes, petits fours, etc. (but no more solid food). W. struck
+and wouldn't get out, but Richard and I and the rest of the men were
+quite ready to see what was going on. Do you remember how I always loved
+getting out at all the buffets at no matter what time of night, when we
+used to go down to Italy every year? I think the buffet at Bologna with
+its "fricandeau de veau" is one of my most interesting souvenirs of
+travel (not from an artistic point of view).
+
+The arrival at Petersburg was curious. It was quite light, and there
+were as many people at the station and in the streets as if it were 12
+o'clock in the day. We read distinctly the names and numbers of the
+streets and the signs of the shops, and yet it wasn't altogether
+daylight--more like a late summer afternoon. We found very comfortable
+rooms here--a large salon with large bedrooms on either side, and a room
+next to me for Adelaide. I was quite ready to go to bed--the heat and
+dust were trying, and yet it seemed funny to go to bed by daylight. They
+brought tea of course, but we really couldn't do any more, so I departed
+to my own room. There I quite lost the impression of daylight, as there
+were double, even triple curtains to all the windows.
+
+This morning we slept late and breakfasted at 12.30, then W., Richard,
+and I went off in a carriage to the Hermitage (the great Museum). W.
+sent in his card to the Director of the Museum and also to the head of
+the Cabinet des Medailles, as he wants a week's work at the medals. It
+seems there is a splendid collection here. The gentlemen were very
+civil, and we made rendezvous for to-morrow, W. for the medals and
+Richard and I for the pictures. The Hermitage is an immense museum.
+We shall only be able to have an idea of what is in it. We walked
+through some of the rooms--Peter the Great's gallery, which is full of
+course of souvenirs--his clothes, arms, tools, furniture, horse stuffed,
+etc., and in another there were quantities of bibelots of all kinds, and
+presents given to Peter and Catherine II--a collection of snuff boxes,
+crystal flagons, and goblets (some with precious stones encrusted in the
+glass), jewelled belts and caps--most interesting.
+
+We had our first view of the Neva from the windows of one of the rooms.
+It rushes past like the sea, so broad and strong, with very fair waves,
+a splendid river. We stayed about an hour lounging through the rooms,
+and then went on for a general view of the city. It is very handsome,
+but has no particular cachet (except the Neva) at this season of the
+year--one ought to see it in winter when the river is frozen and the
+real winter life begins. It looks so modern after Moscow. We went to
+the great cathedral of St. Isaac. It is very big and imposing as a mass,
+but the architecture not very striking--afterwards to the fortress and
+church of St. Peter and St. Paul, where all the Emperors are buried--to
+Peter the Great's house (a most ordinary little wooden building), drove
+a little along the quais, where the lovely fresh breeze from the river
+was most welcome and invigorating after the heat and dust of Moscow.
+
+There was a good deal of life on the river, boats of all kinds. We think
+of going by steamer to Stockholm, all along the coast of Finland. They
+tell us it is a beautiful journey, particularly at this time of year,
+with the long, clear evenings. I want to see the boat before we decide,
+as I have an idea that it wouldn't be very clean (they say the boats on
+the rivers Volga, etc., are something terrible). We wound up in the
+Perspective Nevsky--the great shopping street, but didn't get out of the
+carriage, merely drove through. The shops look handsome and the vitrines
+well arranged, just like Paris. There was very little animation in the
+streets and very few carriages. They tell us many people have already
+gone away for the summer.
+
+We dined quietly at the hotel, and just as we were finishing Admiral
+Jaures came in to suggest that we should dine at Peterhof to-morrow
+afternoon. He says it is a very nice excursion--a short hour on the
+boat, and we can get a fair dinner there. About 9.30 we started again in
+the carriage to drive to the Islands or "La Pointe"--the great
+rendezvous in summer of all Petersburg. It is a long hour's drive,
+crossing quantities of small islands all connected by bridges, and one
+finally arrives at the "Pointe," end of the drive, and entrance of the
+Gulf of Finland. There all the carriages draw up, the people get down
+and walk about, or sit on the benches at the water's edge--a regular
+salon--in summer one sees all the people who are still "en ville" there.
+The place in itself is not at all pretty. The water of the Gulf is grey,
+the banks low, no trees--but the air was delicious.
+
+We met almost all our Moscow colleagues--also Princess Lise Troubetzkoi,
+who was delighted to see W. and plunge into Paris politics. She wanted
+us to go back and have tea with her, but it was 11 o'clock and I was
+tired, having been going all day--evidently that is what people do, as
+several of our colleagues too asked us, and expressed great surprise at
+our wanting to go home so early.
+
+We didn't get back to the hotel until 12, and then loitered a little in
+the salon, as the windows were open, people walking and driving about
+the streets, and nothing to make us think it was midnight, or at least
+the midnight we are accustomed to. They brought us some tea, and a
+little before one, making many excuses, I retired, rather feeling as if
+I were going to bed with the chickens.
+
+    Friday, June 15th.
+
+We have been all the morning at the Hermitage, and I will write a little
+now after breakfast, before we start for Peterhof. We took ourselves off
+early in a droshky (Russian fiacre), the porter telling the coachman
+where to drive to; and telling us how much to give him. It was a lovely
+morning, not too warm, and we enjoyed our drive. W. was shown at once to
+the Cabinet des Medailles, where the Conservateur was waiting for him,
+and Richard and I were taken in hand by a young man attached to the
+Museum who knew his work well, and was remarkably intelligent, speaking
+French quite well. The pictures are beautiful--there are quantities of
+every possible school. The finest we thought the Van Dycks and the
+Rembrandts, though some of the Italian Madonnas were lovely too. I like
+the Italian Madonna face so much--it is so pure and young and
+passionless. Our guide was very talkative, and very anxious to know what
+we thought of the Moscow ceremonies. We stayed about two hours, seeing
+all sorts of things "en passant" besides the pictures. The whole Museum
+is crowded--I don't think they could get much more in.
+
+    Saturday, June 16th.
+
+Our excursion to Peterhof was delightful yesterday afternoon. We took
+the four o'clock boat, and had a nice sail down of an hour and a
+quarter. The Jaures came with us, also Pittie, Fayet, and Calmon.
+Corcelle went back to Paris from Moscow--also Sesmaisons, so our
+Mission is decidedly diminished. We met several of our Moscow friends on
+the boat--General Richter, Comte Worontzoff, and some others. The Court
+is at Peterhof and they are all established there. They told us the
+Emperor and Empress were not very tired after the excitement and
+emotions of the Coronation--very happy that all had gone so smoothly,
+and now quite pleased to be quietly at Peterhof with their children.
+
+The Russians are very proud of Peterhof, call it a "petit Versailles,"
+and "petit" it certainly is in comparison; but the park is pretty, well
+laid out, with terraces and gardens, and the water-works really very
+good indeed. A very good Circassian band was playing, and a good many
+people walking about. What was lovely and quite unlike Versailles were
+the glimpses of the sea one had on all sides. We got carriages and drove
+all about. We went into the big Palace, where the present Emperor never
+lives. He prefers a small place, half farm, half cottage, close to the
+sea, and lives there quite contentedly and quietly like an ordinary
+country gentleman. However we couldn't get anywhere near that villa--the
+gates and alleys were closed, and guards and soldiers everywhere.
+
+We dined very badly at a restaurant we had been told of on the sea, and
+took the 10 o'clock boat home. The return was enchanting--a beautiful
+starlight night, and fresh, soft breeze. I had a nice talk with Mdme.
+Jaures, who told me a good deal of Russian ways and life. I think she is
+glad to go back to France, and "au fond" there are very few French women
+who care to _live_ abroad altogether. After three or four years they get
+homesick for their own country. She asked me if I was never homesick for
+America--but I told her I had been so long away, and my life had been
+such a full one that I sometimes asked myself was I the same little girl
+that used to run wild in the country at home with a donkey cart and a
+big Newfoundland dog. Those years seem so long ago the memory is getting
+duller. Sometimes I shut my eyes and see quite well the big white house
+with the piazzas, and the climbing roses, the cherry trees, and the
+white gate with the sharp turn, and the ditch where we upset so often in
+the sleighs--all the children tumbling out into the snow drift, and
+nobody minding.
+
+We got home at 11.30 and found letters, which we read quite easily at
+the window. It is a wonderful light--no one ever seems to think of going
+to bed.
+
+This morning we have been again at the Hermitage to finish the pictures.
+Decidedly the Rembrandts are the gems of the collection. There was one
+old man in a sort of fur robe and cap, with a wrinkled yellow face,
+whose eyes seemed quite alive, and followed us all round the room. We
+left W. with his medals and a sort of clerk attached to the Cabinet des
+Medailles. It seems they never leave anybody alone in the room with the
+medals. W. is delighted, he has found some rare coins he had never seen,
+and he means to have a good day's work, will not come back to breakfast
+with us.
+
+Our young man, Baron Leeven, is always with us, and meets us at the
+Winter Palace this afternoon to show us the rooms. Our Mission is
+dwindling; Fayet went off this morning, Pittie and Calmon go Monday.
+Richard remains to make the journey with us to Stockholm by sea. We have
+just come in from a pleasant dinner at the Jaures'. The Embassy is
+small, but very well arranged, and we had a very good, handsome dinner.
+All the personnel of the Embassy, Vannutelli and his two auditeurs, and
+the French Consul and his wife. Admiral Jaures was very hospitable and
+en train--all sailors are, I wonder why? The officers of high rank must
+have so many lonely hours, and are such swells on their ships, where no
+one can associate much with them, that one would think it would make
+them rather silent and reserved from long habit--but it is quite the
+contrary. In all nations sailors are generally cultivated, and good
+talkers.
+
+We shall become quite intimate with Vannutelli. We met him at the Winter
+Palace this afternoon, and went all about together. I can't say I found
+it very interesting. The rooms are handsome--high, generally white, with
+quantities of pictures--the portraits, some very old ones,
+interesting--the large modern pictures of battles by sea and land less
+so. I like very much the pictures of Peter the Great. He has a keen,
+striking face, must have had splendid eyes, very intelligent, in some of
+the portraits almost inspired, _hard_, not cruel. They were very anxious
+to show us the rooms where the late Emperor died, but there had been
+some mistake, and the man who has charge of the room could not be found,
+nor the key either. I was very glad (not that I should have gone in),
+for they said it was a horrid sight--the camp-bed and even his clothes
+left as they were, thick with blood. He was carried there directly after
+the attentat, and died on the little camp-bed. What I liked best was the
+splendid view again of the Neva from the windows of the ballroom. It
+looked a beautiful blue sea, the waves dancing in the afternoon light,
+and all the white sails standing out well in the sun. The two young men
+who were with us were most amusing. They showed us all the pictures in
+detail _except_ those concerning the Grande Armee and the disastrous
+retreat. We were hurried past them, "rien de tres interessant,
+Madame--pas la peine de s'arreter----."
+
+    Sunday, June 17th.
+
+This morning we went to the French Protestant Church--a large room with
+white walls, and benches. There were very few people, but they tell us
+it is fairly full in winter. There is a large French colony--shopkeepers,
+theatre people, etc., and a great many Protestants. The Pasteur preached
+a very fair, sensible sermon.
+
+After breakfast we had some visitors--Sir Edward Thornton, who wants us
+to dine one night; and a nice man, a Russian (whose name I never knew),
+but who told us to come to this hotel in which he is interested, and who
+has offered to go shopping with us one day, and show us the best
+fur-shops. We went for a drive in the afternoon to the Park Catherine,
+where a sort of fete populaire was going on. There were a great many
+people, and a great many policemen (as there always are here), one would
+think they lived in perpetual fear of an emeute, and yet the people all
+looked so subdued and repressed--I haven't seen one fierce face. The
+quantity of moujiks in their red shirts made a good effect of colour,
+but the women are not attractive, nor pretty. All are wrapped up in
+shawls, with a handkerchief over their heads.
+
+We had a pleasant dinner at the Hunts' (United States Legation), all
+their people, including of course George Wurts, whom I was very pleased
+to see again--Admiral Baldwin and his two Aides-de-camp Rogers and Paul,
+and M. et Mdme. de Struve. They are just going to America--he is named
+Minister there. They have been in Japan, and didn't seem very keen about
+America. I should think they would like it better than Japan, but I
+believe he hoped for some post in Europe. She was very amusing, and from
+her account life in Japan must still be very primitive.
+
+We came away early--about 10.30--and have been poring over guide-books
+ever since, making out our journey, always at the window (11 o'clock at
+night, and with no lamps).
+
+    Tuesday, June 19th.
+
+We had a charming afternoon yesterday at Cronstadt on the Lancaster,
+Admiral Baldwin's flag-ship. He had invited all the Corps Diplomatique,
+and the few Russians who are still in Petersburg, Jomini, Struve,
+Benckendorff, etc. We started about 3.30 in the regular Russian
+steamer, and once under way the breeze was delicious. I wore my white
+batiste with Valenciennes, and a big black hat (which wasn't very
+practical on the steamer, as the wind blew the feathers about
+considerably, but I thought it looked so nice with the white dress). The
+American ship looked beautiful as we drew near--an old-fashioned
+frigate, all dressed with flags. The getting on board was not very easy,
+as she lay far out, and we had to get into small boats from our steamer
+and go out to her. It didn't look very pleasant when they put the steps
+down and told us to jump. There were fair waves, and when they told us
+to jump the boat was apparently nowhere near, but of course swung under
+the steps on the top of the wave at the right moment. Lady Thornton got
+down all right, so did I; but one of our colleagues had a most trying
+time. She was stout and nervous, looked wretched when she was standing
+on the steps between two strong sailors who told her to jump. She did
+her best, poor thing, and several times we in the boat below saw a stout
+white leg suddenly descend, but it was immediately drawn back, and she
+never let go of her sailors. Her husband, man-like, was furious, which
+of course made her much more nervous; however, after several attempts
+she gave it up, and they lowered her in an arm-chair, which didn't look
+quite comfortable either when it was suspended in the air waiting for
+the boat to arrive.
+
+We danced about well in the little boat, for every time it came up, and
+she didn't come down, we had to go back and repeat the performance. The
+American Legation got off first and were received by a salute of 15
+guns, and then we followed. The Admiral with all his officers received
+us at the top of the ladder, and the band played our national airs, and
+they gave the Ambassador's salute, 17 guns, and a great noise it made
+just over our heads as we were mounting the ladder. Lady Thornton and
+her husband were in front of me, and I heard the "God Save The
+Queen"--then came the "Marseillaise," and for a moment I forgot I was a
+Frenchwoman and looked to see whom the "Marseillaise" was for (W. hadn't
+come in the boat with me, waited for the second one), but I recovered
+myself in time to bow and smile my thanks.
+
+I was delighted to find myself on an American ship, I so rarely see
+American officers of any kind. The ship was in splendid condition, so
+beautifully clean. We had a very handsome dinner in the Admiral's cabin.
+He took me down to see the table before all the guests came, and very
+pretty it looked, quantities of flowers and some handsome silver. No one
+enjoyed the day more than Mgr. Vannutelli. He had a little doubt about
+coming, as he heard there was to be dancing, and consulted us about it.
+We told him the dancing would be mild, and he might never have a chance
+to see a big American ship again, and strongly advised him to come.
+
+While Lady Thornton and I were sitting together one of the young
+officers came up to her (she knew several of them, as they were some
+years in Washington) saying he heard one of the Ambassadresses was an
+American, did she know which one, and could she introduce him.
+"Certainly," she said, "it is Madame Waddington, wife of the French
+Ambassador, who is sitting next to me now," and immediately presented
+the young man, who said he had been looking at all the ladies to see
+which was the American, but hadn't placed me, he supposed because he
+heard me speaking French. We became great friends, and he took me all
+over the ship. We danced a little on deck--a quadrille d'honneur--I with
+my friend Schimmelpenninck, Lady Thornton with Jaures, Madame Jaures
+with Admiral Baldwin. Then we left the dancing to the young ones and sat
+quietly on deck till it was time to go. Just as we were starting the
+Admiral asked me if I would say a few words to the band--they were
+almost all Italians. I went over at once and talked to them, so did the
+Nuncio, which of course delighted them.
+
+We started back about 9 in a special Russian steamer. The sea was much
+calmer, and the getting off one boat and on another was not such a
+difficult operation even for poor Mdme. A----. The sail back was about
+two hours--quite enchanting in that beautiful northern twilight, and we
+were all sorry when it came to an end.
+
+This morning it is very warm, and I am rather seedy, so I have stayed
+quietly at home. Richard and I breakfasted tete-a-tete, as W. was off at
+an early hour to his medals, and won't be back until dark. I wonder if
+the Russian officials will be as astonished at his capacity for a long
+spell of work as the Italians were. _They_ struck after _two_ days of
+such work, and then took it in turns. One day at Milan I went to get him
+at the end of the day, as we were going to drive somewhere in the
+country, so the Italian smiled all over, and almost winked, saying,
+"Ah, Madame est venue voir si Monsieur etait vraiment aux Medailles
+toute la journee." I suppose he felt that he wouldn't have stayed
+working all those hours, and also quite understood that I suspected W.
+of doing something else.
+
+We have had a nice visit from Benckendorff, who has told us all about
+the boat we want to take to go to Stockholm. He says they are Swedish
+boats, very clean, and very good food; also very few people at this time
+of the year.
+
+Now I must dress and go with Richard to pay some visits. Calmon will go
+and see you and give you all our news. He won't tell you what I will,
+that he had a great success in Moscow--his artillery uniform, the
+astrakhan tunique, was very becoming--all the ladies found him "tres
+beau garcon." I must add too that Richard also had a great
+success--evidently artillery uniform is becoming. It was rather amusing
+to see the face of one of the young ladies when I made some reference to
+Madame Richard Waddington. "M. Waddington married--I never should have
+dreamed of it"--and after a moment, "What is his wife like?" doubtfully.
+"Is she pretty?" "Well, yes, she is very pretty." Richard won't tell you
+that either when he comes back, but I shall tell Louise.
+
+How curious all the Moscow life will seem when I am settled again at
+Bourneville--walking in the park with the children, riding all over the
+country with W., and leading an absolutely quiet life. I hope I shall
+remember all I want to tell you.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Hotel Demoult, Petersburg#,
+    Wednesday, June 20th, 1883.
+
+Richard and I went visiting yesterday. We found the Thorntons, who gave
+us tea. Their Embassy is charming--a big house on the Quai Anglais. The
+drawing-rooms are large and high. All the windows look out on the Neva,
+and they say it is quite beautiful at night. Then we went back to the
+hotel, got W., who had had a fine morning with his medals--says the
+collection is magnificent, much larger than he had any idea of, and
+started off to the Quais to see our boat. We leave to-morrow evening
+between 6 and 7. It looked very nice and clean, and the Captain was
+quite overwhelmed with the distinguished passengers he was to have the
+honour of transporting. We have an enormous cabin (two thrown into one)
+big enough for a family. I interviewed the stewardess, a nice
+fresh-looking Norwegian woman. Conversation was rather difficult, as I
+spoke German and she Norwegian, and neither of us understood the
+other, but I am sure we shall get on very well. They tell us the voyage
+is enchanting, all in and out of small fiords, islands, and narrow
+rivers. We stop five or six hours each day to see the country, and never
+have any sea until we cross to Stockholm, when it is generally rough.
+
+We dined quietly at the hotel with Coutouly, our Consul, a very nice
+man, very intelligent. He too had interviewed the Captain, and told him
+to take every care of us. He says the trip is enchanting, and the two
+Finnish towns, Helsingfors and Abo, very well worth seeing. About 10
+o'clock we drove off to the "Pointe" and had a pleasant hour with some
+of the colleagues. It is always cool there, and the drive out is
+interesting, so unlike anything else.
+
+Richard went off early this morning with Sermet and Moulin of the French
+Embassy to see the Falls of Smatra, which are said to be very fine. We
+pick him up at Helsingfors.
+
+I walked about a little with Adelaide--I never see anything the least
+like a femme du monde in the streets. I suppose the "societe" are away
+for the summer, and the streets look rather as September streets do in
+Paris.
+
+W. and I dined at the Thorntons'--handsome and pleasant. Jaures was
+there, not his wife, she has already started for Paris, and the Ternaux
+Compans, a nice young menage (just married) attached to the Embassy. She
+was very well dressed, in white. There was also the Danish Minister (I
+forget his name). He is a friend of the Empress and tres bien vu a la
+cour. After dinner someone played on the piano, and he and Mary Thornton
+danced a little, showing us some of the figures of the mazurka. Lady
+Thornton says, like everyone else, that the society of Petersburg is
+very ferme. They know everybody, but I fancy very few of the
+diplomatists make real friends with anyone. I was rather surprised, as
+the Russians one meets abroad are generally very easy and sociable. She
+also finds the climate very trying. She showed me all the rooms, which
+are charming. In all the bedrooms very thick curtains, as the light is
+most trying, and of course people who live there must have regular hours
+for sleep--for us birds of passage it is of no consequence, and going to
+bed seems the last thing one would think of doing in Petersburg.
+
+We came home about 11, and now W. is busy over his Paris letters, also
+putting his notes in order, as he has finished with the medals. He has
+had three or four days of real hard work, but says it rested him after
+all the Court festivities.
+
+    Jeudi, 21 Juin.
+
+We have been shopping all the morning,--W. and I and M. Lomatch (I have
+found his name). We bought, among other things, a sled for Francis--I
+haven't seen one since I left America--and a good deal of Russian lace,
+which they say is very solid, and embroidery. We came back to a late
+breakfast, and I am writing now at the last moment while they are
+carrying down the trunks. We are going at 4 to the steamer to leave our
+boxes and Adelaide, and install ourselves, and then go for tea to
+Coutouly, who has an apartment on the Quai, just opposite the wharf
+where the steamer starts from. I am quite sorry to go. We are very
+comfortable here, and the streets are so amusing. I should like once to
+hear a little laughing and singing, as the various groups of
+work-people, soldiers, and peasants pass--but they are a curiously sad,
+subdued race.
+
+    Friday, June 22d.  "En mer."
+
+We are just approaching Helsingfors (twelve o'clock), where we go on
+shore for some hours, and I will write a little. I have a nice straw
+arm-chair on deck (the sail shades me), a table with books, papers, etc.
+We embarked at 6.30 yesterday. We went on the boat about 4--saw the
+Captain, a very nice man, a Finn, who speaks English quite well, and who
+is much pleased to have us on his boat. He went down to the cabin with
+us, which is really a large, airy room, with two very fair beds, and
+a sort of recess which makes a dressing-room. It opens into the ladies'
+cabin, where he had also arranged the end near our cabin for us--two
+arm-chairs, a table, etc. Adelaide has a nice state-room just
+opposite--also Richard. There were not many people on board--and he said
+he hadn't many passengers, chiefly men.
+
+We left cloaks, books, etc., and walked across to the Coutoulys', who
+have a nice apartment directly on the river. It is so broad and swift
+one feels almost as if one was on the sea-shore. There is much passing
+all the time, and a good many little posts, as at Venice, where the
+boats are tied. They gave us tea, and about 6 we went back to the boat.
+
+Jaures was there with some of his young men, and Benckendorff, who came
+to say a last good-bye this time. We gave him rendezvous in Paris, as we
+should like very much to do something for him. He was untiring and
+devoted to us all the time we were at Moscow--never tired, always taking
+a great deal of trouble to see that we were well taken care of, and
+helping us in every way. I found three or four handsome bouquets in the
+cabin--one from him, and one from M. Lomatch, the proprietor of our
+hotel. He has written to the hotel at Stockholm for rooms for us. We
+arrive Sunday morning--have three nights at sea. Adelaide is quite
+excited at the prospect of a real voyage "en mer."
+
+We had a very good supper about 8.30, just as we were passing Cronstadt.
+We have made a very nice arrangement for our meals. The idea of a
+table-d'hote with all the people who are on board (many more than I
+thought) was appalling, so we are to have all our meals half an hour
+before the others at a small table in the dining-room. It is a most
+satisfactory arrangement, and we had a nice quiet hour on deck while
+the other passengers were supping. It was a lovely evening--the sea
+absolutely calm, and so warm I hardly needed my cloak. We sat late on
+deck. They brought us a table with tea and Swedish punch, which seems to
+be the favourite drink here.
+
+The passengers all came up after their supper. They were quiet
+enough--all had tea, punch, and cigars, and a great many played cards.
+The men look like commis-voyageurs, or small shopkeepers--almost all, I
+should think, Swedes or Norwegians. There are three or four English
+women and girls, governesses, the Captain tells me, going to Stockholm
+and Christiania.
+
+We went down to our cabin about 12--always the same curious grey light.
+I slept perfectly well. It seemed to me there was a little roulis about
+3 o'clock (I heard a clock strike somewhere), but it was only pleasant.
+I was up at 8 and had my tea and toast in the ladies' cabin close to a
+port-hole, and was rather sorry I hadn't had it on deck. I went up as
+soon as I had finished. We were passing through a series of little
+bays, all dotted over with islands, some fairly large, some merely a
+granite rock with a pine tree on it.
+
+    Saturday, June 23d. "En mer."
+
+I was interrupted yesterday by the Captain, who came to get us to stand
+on the passerelle with him and see the approach to Helsingfors. The bay
+has widened out into a sea, and the harbour seems important. There are
+lots of ships and steamers--also small boats going backwards and
+forwards between them and the quais. The men in the boats wear a red
+cap, something like the Neapolitan fishermen. The town stands out
+well--there are high cliffs rising straight out of the sea, and a great
+many steeples (not the green and pink cupolas of Moscow).
+
+We found Richard and our Consul waiting for us on the Quai, and we drove
+at once to the hotel, and breakfasted. The steamer remains until 12
+o'clock to-night, so we have ample time to see the town. Just as we were
+finishing breakfast a gentleman appeared, a director of something
+(Postes et Telegraphes, I think) who came to do the honours in the
+absence of the Governor. He had an open carriage with a pair of nice
+little Russian horses, and drove us all over the town. Helsingfors is
+the capital of Finland, and I believe flourishing enough. The town is
+small and rambling--entirely surrounded by water, and quantities of
+little islands connected by bridges. I think we must have crossed about
+20. Some of the villas are large with nice gardens. The Director showed
+us his, which looked pretty and comfortable. The streets are narrow--not
+much movement. The names of the streets are written in three
+languages--Russian, Swedish, Finnish. All the functionaries are Russian,
+the small merchants and shopkeepers Swedish, and the peasants and
+sailors Finns. They (Finns) have a very marked type of their own, not
+particularly Russian, nothing of the Tartar, only very Northern.
+
+We dined at the famous Cafe du Parc. W. invited the Director and the
+Consul to dine with us, and we had a pleasant little dinner, fairly
+good. There was a good orchestra, who had evidently been told who we
+were, for as soon as we arrived they played the "Marseillaise" very
+well. It caused quite a sensation among the people who were dining, as
+they evidently hadn't noticed particularly the quiet party which came
+in--all of us of course in travelling dresses. The chef d'orchestre
+asked our Director if we would like to hear some national airs--which
+they played very well, and then I asked for the Polonaise from Glinka's
+"La Vie pour le Czar," which they always played in Moscow whenever the
+Imperial cortege arrived.
+
+At 11 o'clock the Consul's steam launch came (the cafe is on the water),
+and he took us all about the inner harbour, most curious and
+interesting, and then outside. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and
+we went sometimes so close up to one of the islands that we could have
+spoken to anyone on the shore if there had been anybody to speak
+to--sometimes we were in what seemed a great lake, with no perceptible
+outlet. We cruised about until midnight, then went back to the hotel,
+and walked down to the steamer. The light had changed--was rather like
+dawn, but perfectly light. There were people and carriages, children,
+badauds, loitering about the wharf. They told us a steamer had started
+two or three hours earlier with tourists on board to see the midnight
+sun.
+
+We stayed on deck about half an hour to see the depart. The light was
+getting much stronger--Richard read a letter quite easily, and at 1
+o'clock, when I went down to the cabin, the sun was shining bright. I am
+writing now on deck after breakfast. Young Moltke, a Dane, came on board
+last night, and asked if he might have his meals with us. He too had
+been at the Coronation, and found the standing all those hours very
+tiring. The day is beautiful--the sea perfectly calm, and the long, lazy
+hours on deck most resting.
+
+This morning I was interviewed by two English girls--both young and
+rather pretty, the fair English type. One was a governess going back to
+her place, somewhere near Stockholm, in the country; the other was just
+going out on a venture, had no engagement, knew no language but her own,
+and had merely made the acquaintance of the other girl on the boat. I
+suggested it was rather a risk coming so far without anything definite;
+but she said she was sure she would find something, and she had a
+little money. I asked her how old she was--17. "How could your parents
+let you start off like that?" "Oh, there are so many of us, and I am
+strong." They then asked me if I would tell them something about the
+Coronation--so I talked to them a few minutes. They asked me if I saw
+many Nihilists--as if they were a marked class--and did the Empress look
+nervous.
+
+I have also managed to talk a little to the stewardess, or rather to
+understand her--as I have made out that she is married, and has young
+children, and no one apparently to leave them with while she is cruising
+about.
+
+I wish I could sketch, there are so many charming little bits of scenery
+that I would like to bring home with me. We are getting near Abo, and I
+must stop. To-night is to be our rough night in the Baltic. At the
+present moment the sea is like glass, but the Captain says there is
+always movement crossing over to Stockholm. I should like to go on
+forever in the boat. The long, long hours on the deck with this soft
+grey sea and sky, with nobody to talk to, and no dressing of any kind
+are enchanting. I have got a book, Tolstoy's "Guerre et Paix," but I
+don't seem to get on much--I am always looking at something.
+
+    8 o'clock.
+
+We have just got back after a lovely afternoon at Abo (the old capital
+of Finland). The approach was very picturesque as we went some distance
+up a narrow river to the town, which is not directly on the sea. Our
+Vice-Consul was waiting on the quai with a carriage, and we drove all
+over the place. It is now a dead city--all the life and interest of
+Finland is absorbed by Helsingfors, but it is interesting. We saw the
+Cathedral, the public gardens, and then drove some distance into the
+country to see the oldest church in Finland--a little old, grey building
+that looks any age. The country is very pretty, always charming views of
+the sea, and a few villas dotted about, but nothing like as many as at
+Helsingfors. It seems people come sometimes in summer for sea air,
+bathing, and fishing, and occasionally English yachts stop a day or two.
+
+We got back about eight, and I am writing now before supper. We found
+the boat all dressed with greens, as it is the St. Jean, and they tell
+us we shall see lights, bonfires, and torches on all the little islands,
+as they always celebrate the St. Jean here with greens and lights. My
+next letter will be from Stockholm.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Stockholm#,
+    Sunday, June 24th, 1883.
+
+Well, Dear, we arrived at 12 o'clock this morning, and I was quite sorry
+to leave the boat and my nice big cabin, and the good-natured
+stewardess. Last night was enchanting. We sat on deck until 12.30. W.
+treated us all to Swedish punch and cakes. It was decidedly cooler--for
+the first time I had on the warm, long, blue cloth coat I started in
+from Paris, and there was rather more motion. How it would amuse you--I
+wish you were here. The deck looks quite picturesque--lots of little
+round tables with groups of three or four people, all drinking
+something, and most of them playing cards. Between 11 and 12 there is a
+sort of night, or darkness, so they brought up some lamps, which looked
+weird, and gave a faint, flickering light. We run sometimes so close to
+the islands, between several, in a narrow channel, that one would think
+it was impossible to pass, but evidently it is deep sea everywhere, and
+we go steadily on without slackening. I am delighted we decided to come
+by sea. It is again a most novel experience, and such a contrast to our
+Moscow stay--all gold and glitter, and colour and courtiers.
+
+We were just getting out of the little channels and islands and making
+for the open sea when I went downstairs. The captain came and sat with
+us a little while, and told us where we were. Some of the lights on the
+small islands looked as if they were rising straight out of the sea. The
+water was grey, and the rock grey--one only saw the light.
+
+We didn't meet many ships--a few sailing boats as we left Abo--but no
+steamers or big ships. We were up fairly early, as they told us the
+entrance to Stockholm was so beautiful. Coming by water it rises
+straight out of the sea like Venice. There were quantities of islands,
+but much greener than those of the Finnish coast, and the cliffs higher.
+Villas everywhere, close down to the water's edge, and running up the
+hills. Little pleasure boats and yachts skimming all over the harbour.
+As it was fete St. Jean all the peasants and country people were out in
+flat-bottomed boats, crowded with women and children down to the water's
+edge--the boats quite covered with green boughs and leaves, the women in
+costume--a white skirt, coloured bodice embroidered in gold or
+silver--silver charms and big pins in their hair. It really was
+fairy-like for quite two hours before we arrived.
+
+We got in at twelve exactly, and breakfasted on board. The river is so
+deep that big ships run straight up into the town. The American frigate,
+Lancaster, which arrived last night, is anchored directly in front of
+the hotel, under our windows.
+
+We took a most cordial leave of our Captain, who expressed great
+gratification at having had us on board--hoped we were satisfied and
+would recommend his boat to any of our friends who wanted to make the
+same trip. W. and Richard were astounded at the cheapness of the
+journey. I think they made out it was about 50 francs apiece--tout
+compris. We were three nights on board, and had all our meals except the
+day at Helsingfors.
+
+We found various people waiting for us at the quai--one of the
+secretaries of our Legation--the gerant of the Hotel de l'Europe--one or
+two members of the French colony here, and M. Mathias, a French engineer
+who lives here. We went across to the hotel in a ferry-boat and found
+charming rooms, with windows and balconies on the river. The proprietor
+informed us with much pride that the last distinguished foreigner that
+had occupied the apartment was Mdme. Sarah Bernhardt.
+
+We found quantities of letters, unpacked a little--I wasn't sorry to get
+out of my blue cloth into something lighter, as it is warm. They say it
+is going to rain, and it has been dull and grey all the morning. M.
+Patenotre, French Minister, has sent word that he will come and see
+us about 2.30. The King is here, and will receive W. The Queen and
+Princesses are away, so I have nothing to do. The Royal Palace is
+opposite--a big square building.
+
+    7 o'clock.
+
+Patenotre and all his Legation appeared. They brought us some picture
+papers with the Coronation, proclamation (the Heralds dressed in cloth
+of gold, and preceded by trumpeters) and ball. They say the Graphic is
+the best, but they hadn't it, you might perhaps, June 10th. We went for
+a drive with M. Mathias, who will be our cicerone here, as he knows
+Stockholm well. We went to the Royal Park, which is handsome--fine old
+trees and allees, and to the Observatory, from which generally there is
+a beautiful view of Stockholm and its surroundings--but it was grey and
+misty, raining even a little, so we didn't see much.
+
+We are to dine quietly here and go after dinner to a camp where soldiers
+and peasants play games and dance and sing, in honour of St. Jean.
+
+The river is still covered with little green boats darting about in
+every direction.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Hotel D'europe, Stockholm,#
+    Monday, June 25th, 1883.
+
+My Dear, this is the most enchanting place. The sun is out this morning,
+and the river and green hills too lovely. The river is most animated,
+quantities of sail boats and ordinary little rowing boats flying about
+in all directions, and plenty of life on the quais. Our expedition
+last night was not very successful. M. Mathias came to dinner early, at
+7 (almost everyone dines at 6), and we went off to the camp. It was a
+pretty drive all along the river, and would have been nice if it had
+been clear, but it was a cold, grey evening, and began to rain a little
+before we got home. We found plenty of people looking on--various
+carriages drawn up, and it is evidently a thing to do--on a fine night
+people get out and walk about in the crowd, but as it was misting a
+little and decidedly muddy, we merely looked on from the carriage. One
+of the military bands played very well, a sort of quickstep, and the
+people danced with a certain entrain, but there were no particular
+steps, nor national dances, nothing very different from what one
+would see in a French assemblee when the people dance on the pelouse
+before the Mairie. When they were all dancing round a may-pole dressed
+with greens, it was pretty, with soldiers and the Dalecarlian
+women--there were policemen, but not many, and the people looked quite
+peaceable and happy, evidently enjoying themselves immensely. There were
+quite a number of children--little tots that looked as if they could
+just walk, joining in the ring. Some of the costumes were pretty. The
+Dalecarlian women looked well--they wear a high black cap which is very
+effective on their fair hair, which is plaited in heavy braids, and goes
+around the head like a turban; a white bodice, bright coloured apron,
+and gold or silver charms and hair-pins. The language sounded hard--no
+more the soft Russian tongue--and, alas! I am afraid no more the long,
+beautiful Russian twilight. The sky is grey and the clouds low. They
+say we are going to have a spell of rain.
+
+Mathias says the language is not at all difficult to learn, and it is
+absolutely necessary to know it, particularly for anyone who is here in
+any sort of business capacity.
+
+We got home about 10 and went in to pay a visit to the Baldwins, who
+have the rooms next to us. They had intended going too to the camp, but
+the rain frightened them off. We told them they hadn't missed much. The
+Admiral is charming--has been everywhere, seen everything, and takes
+such a practical American view of everything. He was not at all
+impressed with all the magnificence of Moscow--"All show (not much of a
+one) and hollow. What is there underneath?" However, I said I thought
+the show was pretty good as far as it went, and certainly no other
+country in the world could offer such a sight; to which he replied,
+smilingly, that I had been so long away from America that I had
+forgotten what it was like. I stuck to my guns, and said that certainly
+not all the intelligence, energy, education, and money of America could
+produce such a pageant. What was so wonderful was the contrast. All the
+modern life and luxury grafted upon that old half-Eastern, half-barbaric
+world. I think I shall never again see anything like the dinner of the
+Emperor and Empress the day of the Coronation. It looked exactly like
+some old mediaeval picture as they sat there in their robes and crowns in
+that old dark-vaulted room of the old palace. We had quite an animated
+discussion. I fancy he always takes the opposite side on principle.
+
+This morning we have been very energetic. Mathias came at 10 o'clock,
+and we started off sight-seeing. We walked across to the Palace, which
+is directly opposite, and were there about an hour. There is not much to
+see, the rooms are large and high, all very simply furnished. Those that
+give on the river are very gay with all the water life of the city
+passing under the windows. There is one large gallery "des glaces"
+rather like the famous one at Versailles, which they told us was
+beautiful when it was lighted. There are quantities of portraits
+everywhere, and these, of course, are interesting; also some fine china,
+large vases. We saw, of course, Bernadotte's room, left exactly as it
+was when he died there. It was a curious mixture of French and Swedish,
+several French papers and brochures lying about on the tables just as he
+had left them, quite yellow with age and the print fading, also
+note-books and "projets de loi" annotes in his handwriting. They say he
+never knew a word of Swedish and yet was so popular. There was a fine
+portrait of him over the fireplace, a handsome man, with fine soldierly
+bearing.
+
+We found a nice open carriage waiting for us at the door of the Palace
+and drove off to Drottningholm, one of the Royal residences on Lake
+Malar. The drive was charming, through pretty green country, and as soon
+as we came near the Lake, villas (generally white) in every direction.
+We crossed various little arms of the lake before we arrived at the
+Chateau. It is an enormous pile, and stands very well in a large park.
+The Governor, a fine old soldier (who rather reminded me of Marshal
+MacMahon), was waiting for us with his son, and showed us everything.
+The rooms are large and bright and exceedingly simple. It seems the
+Royal Family are very fond of the place. There is so much room that they
+can have as many people staying as they like, and they all live on the
+water. We drove through the park, and saw the Governor's villa, not far
+from the Palace. As we had been going since 10 o'clock the idea of tea
+was not disagreeable, so we consulted our coachman (at least Mathias
+did, as we couldn't talk), and he told us there was a good little cafe
+in the park, at one end, far from the Chateau, where the public were
+allowed, so we stopped there and had a very good cup of tea. It was cool
+and green, and we rather liked sitting there with the lake before us in
+the drowsy quiet of a summer afternoon. However we had to get back to
+Stockholm, as W. had to make a visit to the Ministre es Affaires
+Etrangeres. He sent him word just as we were starting that the King
+would receive him to-morrow at one o'clock. He must also see if he can
+borrow anywhere a Swedish grand cordon. He sent all his decorations
+back to Paris with his uniform, quite forgetting that he might want some
+on his way home, and they tell him he must have his, that the King is
+very particular about such matters, and wouldn't be at all pleased if he
+presented himself without his order. Patenotre's is no good, as it isn't
+the same order.
+
+We left W. the carriage and walked home, stopping and looking at all the
+shop windows. I don't know that there is much to buy, but we are going
+on a real shopping expedition to-morrow morning. Mathias showed us some
+queer old streets and houses and a famous shop where there were all
+sorts of fishing outfits. He is very anxious that we should go on to
+Norway, see Christiania and some of the famous fiords. He says the
+country is much finer than any part of Sweden, and there is much more
+"couleur locale." It is just the season for it. I should like it
+extremely, but I am afraid W. won't. He wants to get home, and must stay
+three or four days at Copenhagen, where there is a fine collection of
+medals.
+
+Now I am sitting writing at the window, waiting until it is time to
+dress for dinner at the Legation. The river is a perpetual enjoyment,
+always something going on. A big boat has just put off from the American
+man-of-war. The men look a fine sturdy lot, and come up in great style
+with a good, long stroke. They attract much attention, for as soon as
+the boat left the ship a little crowd gathered and watched their
+progress.
+
+Here is W., who enjoyed his visit to the minister very much--found him
+easy and intelligent, and much interested in the Coronation. They will
+send him a plaque and a ribbon from the jewellers, so he will be quite
+correct to-morrow. Adelaide is much disturbed because I have neither
+fine dress nor jewels for the dinner to-night. It really is not of the
+slightest consequence, as I am the only lady (Patenotre is a bachelor),
+and we are going to the gardens afterwards. I shall wear Delannoy's
+blue and white striped silk, half long, and take my hat in my hand, as
+it must go on for our outing.
+
+    12 o'clock.
+
+We have just come in from our dinner, which was pleasant and very good,
+merely the three, Mathias, Patenotre, and one of his secretaries, M. de
+Bondy. The house is large, nice, and looks very pretty, as the Minister
+has been both in China and Persia and has brought back some beautiful
+things, carpets, tentures, and curios of all kinds. He evidently didn't
+find Pekin a very pleasant or healthy residence, says the cold is
+something awful. He likes Stockholm, says the Swedes are pleasant,
+kindly people, lead simple lives, and do all they can to make it
+pleasant for the Corps Diplomatique. There are few large fortunes--very
+little life, and little private entertaining. The Court gives several
+balls and dinners every year.
+
+About 8.30 we went off to the gardens and restaurant Haselbach, where
+all the beau monde of Stockholm assembles in summer, but the season is
+over and there were not many people there--of _Society_; _people_ there
+were, plenty. The gardens are large, well lighted, a very good band was
+playing, and everyone walking up and down the broad allees, or seated at
+little tables with tea and punch. We sat there about an hour. Patenotre
+pointed out various notabilities to us, but said he didn't know many
+people.
+
+Now we are discussing routes with maps and books. We shall start for
+Copenhagen to-morrow night via Malmo, and must send in the morning to
+engage our sleepings. It is a long journey. We leave here at 8.30,
+and don't get to Copenhagen until 4.30 the next day.
+
+    Tuesday, June 26th.
+
+It is lovely again this morning. Richard and I and Mathias have been
+wandering about the streets shopping. There isn't much to buy--Norwegian
+knives with carved wooden handles in a leather case, Scandinavian
+charms, buckles, and brooches roughly worked, but rather pretty and
+curious shapes--furs, too, of course, but we didn't want any more. I was
+rather tempted by a large white stuffed bear. I thought it would look so
+well in the hall in the country; but of course the only reason to have a
+bear in the house is when you shot it yourself, and that was not
+possible in the streets of Stockholm in the month of June. The day is
+divine--sky blue and water dancing. The whole aspect of the place is
+much gayer than anything we saw in Russia. People don't look sad or
+preoccupied; there are always badauds hanging over the bridges and
+exchanging jokes or remarks with the watermen.
+
+Richard and I breakfasted tete-a-tete, as W. had gone off for his Royal
+audience. His plaque and grand cordon came in time from the jeweller,
+so he was quite proper. I shall go and see about the trunks, and as soon
+as W. comes back we shall start again for some last sightseeing, the
+Museum, churches, etc. We dine at 6 and start at 8 from the hotel.
+Richard has decided to wait a day longer and go and see the Falls of
+Upsala, which are quite worth seeing. Mathias will go with him, and
+he will join us at Copenhagen Thursday. The Baldwins have just come in
+to say good-bye. They, too, are leaving to-morrow.
+
+I will finish, as I have a quiet hour before dinner. I left the
+gentlemen at the Museum, as I was not very well, and thought better to
+rest a little before starting this evening. W. came in a little after
+two, having enjoyed the hour with the King very much. He says he is a
+tall, handsome man, very intelligent, and well up in everything. He
+received him quite informally in his cabinet de travail, which he said
+had also been Bernadotte's. There was a good picture of him on the
+walls. He was much interested in the Coronation, though he had heard all
+about it already from his son, but he was anxious to have W.'s
+impressions. He said _he_ personally had never been very anxious about a
+Nihilist plot at that time. He didn't think they would choose that
+opportunity. He was much interested in everything French, literature,
+politics, theatres, and asked W. if he was going back to Petersburg as
+Ambassador. He also asked him if he had ever been in America, as he
+believed he had married an American, and was much surprised to hear he
+had never crossed the big pond. He told him too just what some of the
+Swedish diplomats told me, that all his best young men went to America.
+They got such high wages, and got on so well, that they were all
+leaving Sweden. I remember Sandford telling us years ago in Paris, that
+all the workmen on his orange plantations in Florida were Swedes.
+
+[Illustration: M. William Waddington From a copyright photograph by
+Russell & Son]
+
+W. had just time to get out of his dress clothes, and send back his
+order when Mathias appeared, and we went for a last tournee. First to
+the Church des Chevaliers, where all the Swedish Kings are buried, up
+and down some old streets where there are curious old houses, and
+wound up at the Museum. I only stayed there half an hour, saw some of
+the pictures and souvenirs of Charles IX, and then came home, leaving
+the others.
+
+Now we have finished packing, I have on my travelling dress, and am
+seated quietly at the window with my book, Tolstoy's "La Guerre et la
+Paix," but I don't make much progress--I am always looking out. A
+big steam yacht has just come in--ran straight up the river alongside of
+the "Lancaster." About twenty little boats have immediately started out,
+going close up to the yacht, and they have sent off a steam launch,
+which has come up to the wharf in about five minutes.
+
+Patenotre and his secretary have come to say good-bye, and to say that
+all the orders are given for this evening, and we shall have our
+sleepings. I wonder if you have seen Pontecoulant. He said he would go
+at once to find you. He has been saving up all he heard about the
+Americans and their frock coats and grey trousers (when everyone else
+was covered with gold embroidery and orders) for you, and hopes to get a
+good rise out of you.
+
+My next letter will be from Copenhagen--then Hamburg and home. The
+gentlemen have come in--found the Museum very interesting, and we shall
+dine in a few minutes, so this must stop and will go off from here by
+the evening courier.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Copenhagen#,
+    Wednesday, June 27th, 1883.
+
+We arrived at one o'clock to-day, Dear, not tired at all, as our journey
+was easy. We had a capital waggon, a large sleeping carriage, a bed on
+each side, and a good toilette. We started punctually at 8.30, through
+fairly pretty country, nothing very picturesque, but a general
+impression of verdure. At 10.30 we stopped somewhere, had tea, and the
+man came and made the beds. I slept quite well. We took the steamer at
+Malmo, breakfasted on board, and enjoyed the crossing. The sea was
+beautiful and there were quantities of boats of all kinds. There was a
+thick fog for about half an hour, which was very uncomfortable, for we
+knew how many boats there were all around us, and as soon as our own
+whistle stopped, we heard many others unpleasantly near. However it
+lifted as we neared Copenhagen.
+
+The approach is good, but not nearly so fine as Stockholm. There are no
+islands and the country all about is very flat. The quantity of boats of
+all kinds made it a very pretty sight. We found M. de Kergorlay, Charge
+d'Affaires, waiting for us on the quai with a carriage, and drove at
+once to the hotel. We wanted a little time to change, read our letters
+(we found a quantity, two from you), which you may imagine I was glad to
+have. I am so glad the boy has kept well--I am getting very homesick for
+him now that our faces are turned homewards. M. de Kergorlay said he
+would come back at 4 and take us a drive. W. too found various letters
+and papers. We started again at 4 and had a beautiful drive to the "Deer
+Park" for some distance along the sea, with quantities of villas,
+casinos, cafes with music all the way. There were some very pretty
+carriages, officers riding, and every description of pleasure boat, big
+and small, on the sea. Just as we were leaving the sea and turning into
+the forest we met a big break, with the Prince Royal driving himself and
+his family. The carriage was full of children. He recognized of course
+Kergorlay, then W.--however they are all in the country. We shall have
+no visits nor audiences of any kind. I am rather sorry not to see the
+Prince. He was in Paris and dined with us the Exhibition year, when W.
+was at the Quai d'Orsay, and I found him most sympathetic, and very
+good-looking.
+
+It was so pretty driving through the deer park. We had tea in one of the
+casinos, standing high over the sea, with a splendid view. We dined
+quietly at the hotel at a small table in the dining-room. We saw there
+General Appert and his family dining. They had come to Copenhagen
+to see their son, who is military attache here (Madame Appert is a
+Dane), also Harry Whitehouse, who said they were in the country, but not
+far, and would certainly come in and see us. I have written a few notes
+since dinner, and W. has also sent one to be given early to-morrow
+morning to the Conservateur des Medailles at the Museum. The hotel is
+very comfortable, we have an enormous salon on the front, and good
+bedrooms. Adelaide has fraternised with the Apperts' maid, and is
+delighted to have a compatriote to go about with. I was interrupted, as
+W. suggested we should go out and make a little turn in the streets
+while he smoked a cigar. The town is much less gay than Stockholm. All
+the houses are built of grey stone, and are high and narrow, rather like
+New York. There are a good many people in the streets and in the trams,
+of which there seem plenty.
+
+    Thursday, June 28th.
+
+It is again a beautiful day, and at 10 o'clock W. and I started. I took
+Adelaide, for I knew W. would be absorbed at once by the medals, and I
+didn't care to come home alone. We were received with much empressement
+by the Director. As I supposed, the Conservateur des Medailles carried
+off W. at once, and a sub. of some kind was deputed to show me the
+Historical Museum, which really is very interesting, costumes and
+interior groups of figures of the whole world. They say it is very
+exact, but what a work it must have been. We saw it very well and fairly
+quickly, as it wasn't a public day, and the young man only showed us
+what was worth seeing. We walked home. It wasn't far, and he explained
+the route to us. I really needed the exercise. The town is decidedly
+gloomy, even in the bright sunlight, and might be any Northern town
+anywhere.
+
+I breakfasted alone at a small table in the dining-room, and had the big
+room almost to myself--two gentlemen were breakfasting at one end.
+Almost as soon as I got upstairs I had some visits. First Richard
+appeared, very pleased with his excursion, said it would have been a
+pity not to see the Falls, being so near; then came Col. Wyckham Hoffman
+and Whitehouse. Hoffman was much interested in hearing about the
+Coronation, as he was five years secretary in Russia and knew all the
+people. He and Mrs. Hoffman are at Elsinore for the summer and want us
+very much to come down and dine and stay over night, but I am afraid we
+can't. W. wants all his time here for the coins, and it would take quite
+a day to really see the place. Kergorlay came with a carriage at three,
+and he and I and Richard started again for the same drive. It seems all
+Copenhagen does it every afternoon. The sea looked enchanting, and I
+think there were more boats than yesterday--several big steamers,
+English bound they tell us--and such quantities of pleasure boats. We
+drove rather further into the forest, as we had more time. It is really
+very lovely--had tea in another casino with the same view of the sea. We
+met various private carriages with good horses, a certain number were
+breaks full of nurses and children; and some rather smart-looking
+officers well mounted. We didn't meet the Royal break again. It seems
+they are all (a big family party) at one of their chateaux near
+Copenhagen, and come into town very often. Kergorlay seems to like
+Copenhagen--not the climate, he says it is cold and foggy, there are
+days when one never sees the sun. It makes rather a gloomy impression
+on me. If I lived here I too would want to come every day to the Deer
+Park, which wouldn't be convenient perhaps for domestic arrangements.
+
+The streets are curiously banal--I wonder why? Of course one didn't
+expect to find the colour and half-Eastern look of Moscow, nor the gay
+half "bains-de mer" impression of Stockholm, but I am disappointed. One
+thinks of Danes as descendants of the Vikings, heroes, enormous men with
+long limbs and yellow hair. Do you remember the poem we were so mad
+about in the days of our youth, "Word was brought to the Danish King
+that the love of his heart lay dying"? I can see Mrs. Lawrence sitting
+at the table, and reading it in her full rich voice. I don't remember
+now who wrote it, but I am sure you will--and Copenhagen looks
+singularly unpoetical and modern. We found W. on the balcony when we got
+back, with his papers and his cigar, just tired enough after a long
+day's work in the Museum to appreciate a quiet hour. It has been warm
+all day, and is still. We felt the difference as soon as we turned into
+the streets, and we haven't the river under our windows as we had at
+Stockholm, and always a breeze.
+
+    4 o'clock.
+
+Richard and I are just back from an expedition to Tivoli--the great
+garden here. We dined quietly at home, and I tried to persuade W. to
+come with us to the garden, but he declined absolutely, so we left him
+talking and smoking with General Appert, and we two started off in a
+fiacre. We were rather pleased with ourselves and the way we got along
+in a strange place and a strange tongue. We even made out strawberries
+and cream--"med" and something else I forget now. I don't know which was
+strawberries and which was cream, but we got them, and _med_ was
+evidently one or the other. The garden is very pretty, very well
+arranged, with every variety of entertainment. We sat and listened to
+the band (a very good one, military) while we had _med_ and ----, and
+then went into one or two of the small theatres and concert halls. All
+this too was modern, might have been Paris or London. We saw one or two
+of our diplomatic friends disporting themselves at one of the theatres
+where there were "poses plastiques" very well done. I think they were
+"en garcon"--the pink flower hats they were alongside of didn't give me
+a family impression.
+
+We rather enjoyed our evening lounging about. A fortune teller, a rather
+pretty girl, evidently wished to tell our fortunes, _that_ we made out
+by signs and the cards she had spread out before her, but we didn't
+think our knowledge of the Danish tongue was sufficient to understand
+all she would tell us of a brilliant future. Richard is delightful to go
+about with. He likes to see everything and know about everything, and
+certainly succeeds in some curious way getting all the information he
+wants. W. was poring over his notes when we got back. We told him all
+our experiences, and then talked a little about our day to-morrow.
+
+    Friday, June 29th.
+
+It has been frightfully hot all day. I stayed at home all the morning.
+W. and Richard went off early to the Museum. I had a visit from
+Kergorlay. He has an interesting face, is a widower, poor fellow, with
+four children, one boy of two and a half. They say he is so devoted to
+the children. I told him I should like to see them, and he will send
+them--at any rate we shall see them to-morrow night, as we dine at the
+Legation. Richard came back to breakfast. He said it was cool enough
+in the Museum, and we started off for the Thorwaldsen Gallery. Of course
+some of the statues and has reliefs are very fine, but they are
+enormous, almost more than life size. We went on to the Frauen Kirche to
+see his statues of the 12 Apostles which are there. They were strangely
+familiar. We must have seen them reproduced in plaster at home. Both St.
+Peter and St. John I knew quite well, and didn't like them much. While
+we were loitering about the church the suisse told us a wedding was just
+going to take place, it might perhaps amuse us to see it, so we stepped
+into one of the side aisles and saw the cortege. The bride was the
+regulation white-veiled figure, I think she had a _green_ wreath (it may
+have been myrtle like the German brides), the man was in uniform. What
+was really interesting was the dress of the two pastors. They wore black
+coats with white ruffles, just as they did in Luther's time. That
+reconciled me a little to this very uninteresting town.
+
+It was still very warm, but we did a little shopping, photographs and
+one or two trifles. Richard leaves to-night at 7.30, and we shall dine
+early with him. He is to stop a day or two with Mary at Meiningen, pick
+up his mother who is there, and bring her back to France. Mary wanted us
+to come, and I wish we could have managed it. It would have been nice to
+have been there all together, and they would have enjoyed hearing all
+our impressions while they were so absolutely fresh, particularly
+Charles, who leads a very quiet life now ever since his accident at the
+Quai d'Orsay. It is extraordinary how the last thing seen remains in
+one's memory. Already Moscow and that splendid pageant is fading a
+little, and I see Stockholm, and the green islands, and the dancing
+river.
+
+    Saturday, June 30th.
+
+It is still frightfully hot--not a breath of air. I have made as much of
+a draught as I can by opening the door into the passage. It isn't very
+convenient, as we are just at the head of the big staircase, but I have
+put a high-backed arm-chair between me and the passers by. It was really
+very warm until 11 o'clock last night. We dined downstairs with Richard,
+and were very sorry to see him go. Then we went to Mrs. Baldwin (the
+Admiral had gone off for two days) to ask her if she would drive with
+us. We made the usual turn, the only variety being our tea place--we
+take a new one every time. The gerant of the hotel explains to the
+coachman where to go, and he chooses very well. It was lovely driving,
+and so cool on the top of the cliff that we walked about a little after
+tea. There is always a long, clear evening, not like Russia, but still
+very pleasant and pretty, such a soft light over everything. The moment
+we turned away from the sea back into the town we felt the difference,
+but the long drive had cooled us. I have asked for my breakfast upstairs
+in the salon. I really can't dress and sit in that hot room in this
+weather. W. is at the Museum, but comes back at 4 with the Director, who
+is to show us some of the treasures of the town. I am getting on very
+well here with "La Guerre et la Paix," as I am not distracted all the
+time as I was at Stockholm. I think you would like it, the _Russian_
+side of Napoleon's great campaign is so interesting, also the
+pictures of the society of Moscow at that time, which they say is
+extremely well done.
+
+W. came in about 4, not very warm, as he says the rooms of the Museum
+are cool, with such thick walls, and while we were waiting for Monsieur
+Warsoe, the Directeur, Mr. Vivian, English Minister, paid us a visit. He
+is very anxious we should come and see them at Elsinore, says it is most
+interesting (all memories of Hamlet). I should like it extremely, but W.
+thinks we must get home. I liked Vivian very much. He talked very easily
+about everything--he is going to dine with us at Kergorlay's, says all
+the colleagues are most anxious to hear about the Coronation. M. Warsoe
+appeared about 4.30 and we drove at once to Rosenburg, an old chateau
+where there is a fine collection of all sorts of things. Some of the
+Danish porcelain was lovely, also some fine tapestries. They showed us
+with much pride their tresor, jewels, and gold and silver services, but
+really after Moscow and the quantities of gold, silver, enamel, crowns,
+and jewels of all sorts that one had seen the others made no effect,
+though of course there were some handsome stones, rubies. What I did
+like was the 4 lions (couchant) of massive silver, which are always put
+at each side of the throne whenever there is a great ceremony at Court.
+They must look splendid.
+
+We went again to the Frauen Kirche, as W. had not seen it, and the
+second time I liked the Apostles better, a little better. I think it was
+too hot, and I was too tired when I was there before. We drove out to an
+old bridge, which was curious, and in some old street where I had never
+penetrated. The trams worry me, they are so frightfully civilized and
+up-to-date, however they were crowded, so evidently the Danes are not of
+my way of thinking.
+
+Our dinner at Kergorlay's was very pleasant and handsome. Adelaide was
+again frightfully put out at my garment, and she is right, it is really
+a street dress, and this time there are several women. I don't know why
+I didn't keep out _one_ evening dress. It was rather stupid to send
+everything back. However, I made my excuses to the ladies, and said I
+was "en touriste." They were all very elegantes, though they were all
+already settled in the country, and went off about 10 o'clock by the
+last train. Kergorlay's children came in before dinner. The eldest girl
+is 10, and the baby two and a half. It was so pathetic to see them in
+their white dresses and black sashes and to think whom the mourning was
+for. The dinner was very gay. We had Count and Countess Toll (he is
+Russian Minister here, and a brother of Countess Pahlen), Marochetti
+(Italian Minister) and his wife (a Frenchwoman, nee Grandval), Vivian
+(she didn't come, was in the country and rather exhausted with the great
+heat), General and Madame Appert, and two secretaries. Count Toll was
+very keen to hear all about Moscow, and what we thought of the great
+show (he speaks English quite well). I told him we were enchanted, and
+that one of the great features was Comte Pahlen with his velvet coat and
+white staff of office with a big sapphire at the top. He certainly took
+no end of trouble, and looked his part very well. They all seem to like
+Copenhagen pretty well, except for the climate, which seems most trying.
+Countess Toll was in white with handsome pearls. I felt rather like a
+pensionnaire in my simple little dress--foolish, too; I ought to have
+known better.
+
+We got home quite early, so I can still have a little Tolstoy before I
+go to bed. Adelaide instantly inquired what the other ladies had on and
+was much put out. "C'etait Madame l'Ambassadrice qui etait le plus
+mal"--"oh! cela oui, et de beaucoup." I suppose it reflects upon the
+femme de chambre when the mistress is not up to the mark.
+
+    Sunday, July 1st.
+
+It is still frightfully hot. I did not go out all morning, though they
+sent a notice of services at the English Church. We shall leave
+to-morrow night for Hamburg. W. says two days more of medals will give
+him all he wants. After breakfast I went to see Mrs. Baldwin, whom I
+found gasping, sitting with open doors and windows; also Madame Appert,
+who looked quite cool and comfortable, as did her two daughters, pretty
+girls; however, they said they didn't feel cool. When I got back to our
+rooms I found several cards, and then Mrs. Hoffman appeared. She was
+very nice and friendly, sent all sorts of messages to you and Anne, and
+wished Anne would come and stay with her at Elsinore. She likes
+Copenhagen very much, says the people are friendly and hospitable and
+invite the diplomats; also that some of the country places are very
+fine, quite in the English style. She made a great appeal to me to come
+to Elsinore with her this afternoon, I could come back to-morrow in
+plenty of time for the night train, but I couldn't manage. W. was still
+at the Museum, and would have been in a great state of mind if he had
+come home and found not me but a note saying I had departed for
+Elsinore. While she was still here, young Moltke appeared, our compagnon
+de voyage from Helsingfors to Stockholm. He hopes to be sent to Paris or
+London. I told him if it was Paris he must look us up. He is a very nice
+young fellow, very good-looking, tall, and fair.
+
+We have had our usual drive. We dined at 5 and started out rather
+earlier. If possible there were more people than we had ever seen
+before, as it was Sunday and fete. All Copenhagen, high and low, were on
+their way to the Deer Park. A stream of conveyances of all descriptions,
+some peasants' carts with straw at the bottom filled with women and
+children, everybody in a good humour. There were fewer officers riding,
+and fewer big boats on the sea, but endless little pleasure yachts. As
+we came back it was really a pretty sight, all the cafes, casinos, etc.,
+brilliantly lighted, all the villas, too, and people sitting on the
+verandas, some playing cards, some at tea tables, some walking about in
+the gardens, we could see the light dresses fluttering about in the
+shrubberies; animation, laughter, voices, music everywhere. We stopped
+as usual for tea at one of the high casinos--the sea blue and calm at
+our feet some distance down, and the whole summer out-door life of
+Copenhagen behind in the woods and hills. It was delicious driving back,
+and even the streets were pretty to-night, so many people, and the cool
+air such a relief after the terrible heat of the day. We have decided to
+start at 8.30 to-morrow evening.
+
+I tried to glean some information from a Danish paper this afternoon.
+Col. Hoffman told me that if one knew English or German one could read
+Danish quite well, giving oneself a little trouble, but I can't say that
+was my experience. It might have been Hebrew for all I made out. I
+suppose I didn't keep at it long enough. It doesn't sound easy when one
+hears the language spoken all about one, rather harsh. I mastered a
+little Swedish (to understand it) much more easily.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Copenhagen#,
+    Monday, July 2d, 1883.
+
+The heat is something awful to-day,--I think the worst day we have had.
+I was up early, as the salon is cooler than the bedroom, more doors and
+windows. W. is off to his medals until 5, and we leave to-night for
+Hamburg. The trunks are made (almost for the last time), as we shall
+stay only one night in Hamburg, and arrive in Paris Thursday morning. I
+had a nice visit from Kergorlay. He can't come to the station to see us
+off, as he dines with the King in the country, but will send his
+chancelier to see about places, luggage, etc. We talked a great deal
+about his children. He feels such a responsibility, and it is hard for a
+man to have such a young family to look after. He said their mother was
+so devoted to them--it seems hard she couldn't have been left to them a
+little longer.
+
+I breakfasted downstairs, had a little talk with the Apperts, and then
+went to the reading-room for a little while to see if there was any
+news. The Comte de Chambord is very ill, dying they say. I wonder if his
+death will make any difference now--I suppose not. He has been only a
+memory practically all these years, as he never came to France, and only
+a few, a very few fideles clung to him in his exile. I must say I rather
+admired him always. According to his lights (limited I grant), he was
+absolutely consistent.
+
+I had another visit from Col. Hoffman, who came to see if we were really
+going to-night. We have a despatch from Richard saying that we will have
+much difficulty in getting into any hotel in Hamburg--the town is very
+full. There are races going on, also a scientific congress of some
+kind--however, the proprietor of this hotel says it is all right, they
+will keep us rooms. W. came in at 5, having been working steadily since
+9.30 this morning. He took a cordial leave of the various Conservateurs
+and Directors, but thinks they were not sorry to see him go, and take up
+their quiet life, two or three hours a day in the cabinet instead of 6
+or 7.
+
+My next letter will be from Hamburg--and after that I will _tell_ all I
+have seen and done, which will be much easier than writing.
+
+    #Railway Station, Kiel, 7 A.M.,#
+
+    Tuesday, July 3d.
+
+We have two hours to wait here, so I will scribble a line to you, which
+will help to pass the time. We got off very early last night. Some of
+the young men from the Legation were waiting at the station with a
+servant to help us with our baggage. It really was not necessary, as we
+have only two trunks, and the porter of the hotel is most helpful and
+energetic. It was very warm even at that hour, and the compartment was
+stuffy, a good many passengers. We got to Korsoe about 11. The boat was
+directly opposite the station, and we went on board at once. There was
+some delay getting the baggage on board, so we sat quietly on deck and
+had our tea, and cooled off. The cabin felt so hot when I went down to
+leave my things that I couldn't make up my mind to install myself,
+particularly as the crossing (the Belt) was short, about 5 hours. The
+Captain said we should arrive between 4 and 5 at Kiel. We stayed on deck
+till nearly one o'clock. It was a lovely night, the sea quite calm, but
+a good breeze once outside, which freshened considerably as we drew away
+from the land.
+
+I went down about one, but didn't get much sleep, and was quite ready to
+go up on deck when they called me at 4.30, and said we were approaching
+Kiel. Almost all the passengers were on deck. The approach is not
+particularly interesting. I heard two gentlemen discussing us in
+English. They had seen our trunks all labelled _Waddington,
+Couronnement_, had taken renseignements from the Captain, who assured
+them W. was the French Ambassador. They thought he must be mistaken.
+"That man is an Englishman--he is speaking English now to the lady--I
+have heard them talking always in English. They certainly are not
+French." They hovered about us, and then looked rather bewildered, for
+Adelaide came up to ask me something, and then W. and I finished our
+talk in French. We speak sometimes French, sometimes English, it depends
+upon our milieu.
+
+The harbour is fine as one gets up to it. How hard for the Danes to give
+it up, and how they must hate the Germans. We got off about 5.30. The
+city was still wrapped in sleep. We walked about a little, and it was a
+curious sensation to walk about in apparently a dead town. We had some
+breakfast at the station, and have been out again. Then (7 o'clock) the
+town was quite lively, workmen moving about. We shall start in about a
+quarter of an hour, and have about two hours and a half to Hamburg. The
+long wait here has been tiresome, nearly three hours. The movement on
+the water and the quais was amusing, but really until after 7 not a soul
+was stirring, at least not in this quarter, and no trains coming or
+going.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Hamburg#,
+    Tuesday, July 3d, 1883.
+
+No words can tell, Dear, how uncomfortable we are, hot and cross. We
+arrived at 11, after a very hot, dusty journey. The town is crammed,
+even at this hotel where they had kept rooms for us (and such nasty
+little rooms, a small salon, giving on the street it is true, so that we
+can see all that goes on, and two minute bedrooms on one side) we can't
+get our trunks, nor apparently our breakfast. The hotel people are quite
+affoles. There are races (with a German Prince of some kind either
+presiding or running horses, I can't make out which), "a horticultural
+show, a cattle fair, (and an anniversary of something)."
+
+We said we would take a carriage this afternoon and drive about the
+city, and we might just as well have asked for a balloon--nothing to be
+had before 7 o'clock. I should think every carriage in Hamburg was
+out--quantities of all kinds and large omnibuses are passing under the
+windows, filled with women in light dresses, and a generally festive
+appearance. They hope to give us one then.
+
+We have had breakfast--the dining-room large, fairly cool, and empty (as
+it was late everyone had breakfasted and flown). They brought us the
+Figaro. The Comte de Chambord is dead, and the Comte de Paris starting
+for the funeral. Just as we had got upstairs again the man of the hotel
+came and asked if Madame l'Ambassadrice de France would receive Madame
+l'Ambassadrice de France. We were rather puzzled, but said of course we
+would receive anyone who came, and in walked M. et Mdme. de Courcel, and
+M. de Pina, our Consul here, M. de Sancy, the military attache at
+Berlin. We were delighted to see them. The Courcels had been paying a
+visit to the Duke of Sagan in his splendid place, and, being not far
+from Hamburg, had come on to see the town. They were going to the races
+with M. de Pina, and wanted us to come, but we didn't care to (and
+indeed I don't know how we should have gone, as they had a small
+carriage which just held them, and we had none). M. de Pina asked us to
+dine with the Courcels at 8.30, and that we were very glad to do, as the
+prospect of a dinner in the big dining-room, with all the crowd of
+hungry people back from the various festivities, was not alluring. Pina
+told us as we couldn't get a carriage we had better take one of the
+small steamers that ply about in the inner harbour, and have an hour's
+sail. He was sure we would find it pretty and interesting. It would
+certainly be cooler than sitting in that stuffy little salon.
+
+There is nothing to see now in the streets, as the whole population is
+out of town, and the rumbling of carriages has ceased for the moment. W.
+is lying back in an arm-chair, with a cigar, in his shirt sleeves,
+groaning with the heat; and very hot it must be to reduce him to that
+state. I have a theory that no Waddington knows what heat means. No
+words can describe what I feel. Certainly fine feathers make fine birds,
+and I think no one would recognize the gold embroidered, bejewelled
+couple that went in the coupe d'Orsay to the gala dinner at the Palace.
+
+    11 o'clock.
+
+We are just in from the Consul's dinner, and as it is cooler in the
+salon with the windows open than in my room, I will finish my letter
+to-night. We start to-morrow morning at 9 o'clock for Cologne and Paris.
+Now that we are getting so near I am very homesick for the boy, and for
+my own house. The constant moving about and living in hotels for the
+last fortnight has been tiring. I have got nothing left either to say to
+anybody--I have described the Coronation so many times that it is almost
+mechanical now--the words come by themselves--a steady stream, like the
+paper that rolls off the telegrams. I think I should never do for a
+_permanent_ Ambassadress if six weeks of functions have exhausted me
+physically and mentally. As usual tho' last impressions are the
+strongest. I have already forgotten Moscow a little, and see the journey
+from Petersburg to Stockholm more clearly than anything else. I am sorry
+now that I didn't write a regular journal. Almost all the gentlemen did,
+and it would have been no trouble if I had made up my mind to it, and
+written regularly, but unfortunately my writing-table at Maison Klein
+was on the court, and as soon as I established myself all sorts of
+interesting things immediately began to take place under the window, and
+the ink was bad and thick, and I got it all over my fingers, and even up
+in my hair--I hate so to write.
+
+We sat all the afternoon indoors until 6 o'clock, when a little breeze
+sprang up, and we walked down a few steps only to the wharf from which
+the little steamers sail. It is about an hour, the tour round the lake,
+or inner harbour--quite charming--all the shores covered with pretty
+houses and villas, with lawns, and gardens full of flowers, sloping down
+to the water's edge. One would never have dreamed of finding anything so
+pretty and so _country_ in this very business-like place. Many of the
+villas had nice little jetties and piers that ran out quite far into the
+water, and pretty boats and boat-houses. It seemed incredible to find
+all this so close to the hot, crowded hotel where we had been all day.
+The boat was quite full--principally business men going back to dine and
+sleep at their country houses--all Germans--we were certainly the only
+foreigners on the boat. It rather reminded me of Staten Island at
+home--the afternoon boat with all the business men on board, only one
+didn't have the broad expanse of the beautiful New York Bay, but a small
+land-locked lake.
+
+The sail and breeze (such as it was) revived us, and we had time to
+dress comfortably for our dinner. We didn't see the great port--divined
+it only, with the forest of masts of all sizes.
+
+Our dinner was very pretty and pleasant. Our host was some time in
+Holland, and has some lovely specimens of blue Delft, and some fine
+carved furniture. We had only M. and Mdme. de Courcel (who arrived very
+late, having been caught in the file of carriages coming from the
+races), M. de Sancy, the first magistrate of the city, the Burgomaster,
+all in black, a plain tight coat, with a white fraise, very stiff and
+high around his neck, and a long gold chain. Also two of the principal
+merchants of Hamburg--the Courcels were staying with one of them, as
+they could get no rooms anywhere. The house was almost shut up--all the
+family out of town, and a femme de charge to look after them. They said
+the rooms were very comfortable, and they took their meals at a
+restaurant or with M. de Pina, who is certainly most hospitable.
+
+W. was delighted to see Courcel and tell him all about the Coronation,
+and his impressions of all the people he had seen. The Burgomaster, too,
+was very keen to hear what we thought about everything. He is a clever
+old man, speaking French fairly well. They all evidently think there is
+much discontent in Russia, and some day there will be a great
+upheaving--de Sancy told me that Radziwill, Aide-de-Camp to the German
+Emperor, told him that our equipages, horses, etc., were so good. We
+thought so, but were not perhaps quite impartial. Richard says we all
+used to sit up talking after every ceremony, and say how well we did
+things.
+
+After dinner M. de Pina showed us some of his curios, which are
+interesting and very well arranged. One of the two merchants, I quite
+forget the name, has a beautiful villa on the Elbe, some little distance
+from Hamburg, and wants us very much to come and make them a visit. I
+was much tempted--it would be amusing to see a bit of German business
+life, and I think W. would not have minded if the invitation could be
+accepted at once--but we would have to remain on here for two days, as
+the gentleman is going somewhere else before he goes home, and really
+two days in these horrid little rooms would be impossible. M. de Pina
+told us the villas of some of these merchant princes are beautiful, with
+splendid gardens and all the luxe that money can give. He says they
+spend much more for their country houses than for their town
+establishments.
+
+We broke up about 10, as everyone was tired. It was a beautiful
+moonlight night, so we told our coachman to take us round by the great
+port. It was most curious. The water was black except just where the
+streak of moonlight fell on it, and there were thousands of ships of all
+kinds from all quarters of the globe--smoke coming out of the chimneys
+of some of the big steamers, evidently preparing for an early start
+to-morrow morning, and _millions_ of masts tapering up against the sky.
+Lights in every direction, some high, some low, and even at that hour of
+the night little boats flying about. One saw a dark object start off
+from the wharf--suddenly stand out well crossing the moonlight streak,
+and then disappear--there was a constant sound of oars and row-locks,
+and long creaking noises like pulleys, and heavy things being hoisted on
+board a ship. They say the animation, and noise, and dust, and _smells_
+are extraordinary in the daytime--but at night-time all looked extremely
+picturesque.
+
+    #Cologne Gare#, 10 o'clock Mercredi soir,
+    4 Juillet.
+
+We got off this morning at 9.30 from Hamburg, and had a long, hot, dusty
+journey--nothing very pretty to see. We arrived here about 6.30, found
+the Consul, Mr. Brandt, waiting at the station with a carriage. He
+proposed a drive--going first to the Cathedral, to see it by daylight,
+and then to dine with him at the station, where there is a very good
+restaurant, so we sent all our small things over to the private room,
+and started off to the Cathedral. I was delighted to see it again after
+so many years. Do you remember it was the first European Cathedral we
+saw after Notre Dame, that first year when we came down the Rhine. How
+magnificent it is, outside and inside--the long, stately vaulted aisles,
+so high and so still. There was no one in the church at that hour, and
+we had a delightful half hour. We walked all around the outside, and
+then went back to the station to dine--and a very good dinner it was, in
+the same room where we breakfasted when we started for Russia, now
+nearly two months ago, when all seemed so vague, and rather a plunge
+into the unknown. We shall certainly have souvenirs for all our lives.
+
+As we were finishing dinner the Chef de Gare came to say that a
+"lit-salon" was reserved for us, and he would have all the "kleines
+gepack" put into the compartment, and tell us at the last moment. The
+train starts at 10.30, and we get to Paris at 10 to-morrow morning, so
+we thought we would go out again and drive about a little, as we had so
+long to wait. We had a nice turn in the moonlight--the Cathedral looked
+beautiful, and we crossed the Rhine and drove some little distance on
+the other side of the river to have the view of the city. Now one or two
+Frenchmen who are here are talking to W. They have brought us tea, and I
+am scribbling this to you.
+
+It is delightful, Dear, to think that to-morrow at breakfast I shall be
+telling you all this, and Baby sitting up in his high chair, looking at
+me hard out of his round, blue eyes. There is _one_ good thing in
+getting home, I needn't write any more letters.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Paris#,
+    31 #rue Dumont d'Urville#,
+    July 5th, 1883.
+
+We got back this morning at 10 o'clock. The journey was very
+comfortable--there is nothing like those French "lits-salons." Our
+departure from Cologne was rather amusing. The Chef de Gare summoned us
+at the last moment--all the passengers had taken their places, the doors
+were shut, officials careering up and down the platform, and _yet_ the
+train didn't start. Various heads were put out of the windows, and one
+or two irate gentlemen inquired what they were waiting for, and why
+didn't we start. Then we appeared strolling leisurely down the platform,
+with a small suite of gentlemen, officers, etc. The adieux were again a
+little long, and really one man was bursting with rage, and not at all
+mollified when he heard it was an Ambassador returning to France after
+the Coronation; "he supposed Ambassadors could be as punctual as anybody
+else, and when an express started at 10.30, it was 10.30 for everybody."
+
+We were very pleased to find Hubert and the coupe waiting for us at the
+Gare de l'Est, and Baby and Nounou in the street at the door of the
+porte cochere.
+
+Well, the Moscow Coronation is over--I wonder what the next turn of the
+wheel will bring us.
+
+
+
+
+PART II
+
+TEN YEARS IN ENGLAND
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Boulogne-sur-Mer#,
+    August, 1883.
+
+Here we are after all settled for a month at the sea. I really needed
+the change and the sea-air after the fatigues of Moscow, and I was glad
+to get out of my own house, which is still crowded with boxes and huge
+cases labelled _Waddington Couronnement_, which now will not be
+unpacked, but go direct to London, as all the Court dresses, gala
+liveries, harness, etc., will be needed there.
+
+We decided just at the last moment to come here, and consequently
+couldn't get a house near the big hotels in the real "quartier des
+baigneurs," so we have taken one quite the other end of the town near
+all the fishing boats. They are a never-failing attraction. We love to
+see them go out, and, above all, come in, when all the women,
+bare-legged, and with flat baskets on their backs, go out to meet them
+and bring in the fish. W. wanted us to come here, as he was in London
+and thought he would often get over from Saturday to Monday.
+
+I made my first visit to the Embassy on the 15th of August (Journee de
+l'Assomption). W. thought I had better come over and see the house
+before arriving in November to take possession. We started quite
+cheerfully. It was warm and bright with a good breeze--a few white-caps,
+but nothing out of the way. We saw the boats dance a little as they came
+in, but didn't realise what a gale was blowing until we got on board of
+ours. The wind was howling through the rigging, and the Captain told us
+he couldn't start, as the wind was blowing the water off the bar. It
+increased very much while we were waiting, and several passengers left
+the boat and stayed over in Boulogne until the next day. However we had
+promised to go; we are fairly good sailors, and W. had just two idle
+days he could give us in London--so we started. It was certainly the
+worst crossing I have ever made. The boat rolled and pitched terribly,
+we shipped heavy seas all the time, and arrived at Folkestone shivering
+and drenched. All the way to London we felt little streams of water
+running down our backs, and our hats were a curiosity--filled with water
+like a bowl. We emptied them on the quay, but the feathers, of course,
+were finished. We were met at Victoria by two swell young secretaries,
+in evening dress, with gardenias in their button-holes, who had come to
+meet their Ambassadress; and I have wondered since what impression they
+had of the limp, damp, exhausted female they extracted from the reserved
+saloon carriage. It was only a few minutes' drive to the Embassy at
+Albert Gate, where we were received by a stout porter and a most
+distinguished "groom of the chambers," dressed in black, with a silver
+chain around his neck. We dined alone in a fair-sized dining-room, with
+splendid Gobelin tapestries on the walls. W. came in about 11, having
+had a man's dinner with Gladstone.
+
+[Illustration: The French Embassy, Albert Gate, London]
+
+The next day we went all over the house, which is neither handsome nor
+comfortable. It is high and narrow, like a cage, with no very large
+rooms, and a general appearance of dinginess and accumulated dust.
+However, the Minister has promised to paint and clean, and to do over
+the small drawing-room entirely, just as I like. Of course I shall have
+blue satin--you remember how I always like blue everywhere, on me and
+near me. The situation is delightful, on the Park--just at Albert Gate.
+The windows and balconies of the drawing-rooms give on the drive, and
+the "Row" is so near that I could easily recognise horses and riders.
+The season is practically over, but I have just seen a pretty group
+pass; a lady mounted on a fine chestnut and a child on each side of her
+on nice, small fat ponies; close to the little girl, about eight years
+old, with her fair hair streaming down her back from under a blue cap,
+rides an old groom, evidently much pleased with his little lady's
+performance, and watching her so carefully.
+
+Our inspection of the house took us all the morning. The kitchen,
+offices, servants' hall and rooms are enormous, and in very bad order. I
+should think it would take weeks to get it clean and habitable, and need
+an army of servants to keep it so. I am thinking rather sadly of my
+little hotel in Paris, so clean and bright, with not a dark corner
+anywhere.
+
+We went out driving in the afternoon, and I had my first experience as
+Ambassadress, as the coachman drove down Constitution Hill--a right of
+way reserved for Royalties and the Corps Diplomatique. We went straight
+to Mrs. Brown, the famous milliner, in Bond Street, to get ourselves new
+hats, as ours were quite impossible after our very lively passage, and
+the housemaid at Albert Gate had a handsome present of two hats with
+drooping feathers and a strong smell of sea and salt. London was of
+course empty, but a few carriages were in the park, and it amused us to
+drive about and see all the shops, and the general look of the streets,
+so different from Paris.
+
+We spent our evening quietly at home looking over our installation with
+W., horses, carriages, servants, and in fact the complete organisation
+of a big London house, which is so unlike a French one. I shall bring
+over all my French servants and add as many English as are necessary. I
+don't quite see Hubert, our French coachman, driving about the London
+streets, and keeping to the left. I should think we should have daily
+discussions with all the drivers in London; however, we must try. I
+wonder if I shall like being an Ambassadress, and I also wonder how long
+we shall stay here. My brother-in-law R. says perhaps two years.
+
+We got back three days ago--started on a bright summer's day. The
+Ambassador and secretaries came down to the station to see us off, and
+W. promised to come over and spend Sunday. We had an ideal
+crossing--blue sky, bright sun, and few passengers, and, notwithstanding
+our hard experience in the first passage, we are glad to have been over
+and made acquaintance with the personnel of the Embassy, also to have
+seen the house and realized a little what I must bring over to give it a
+look of home.
+
+This morning we have the news of the Comte de Chambord's death, and I am
+wondering if it will make any political complication. However, for years
+past he has only been a name--a most honourable one certainly--but one
+wants more than that to deal with the present state of France.
+
+After all W. never came over. Although London was empty, he had always
+some business to attend to, and on Sunday usually went to see some
+friends in the country. Last Sunday he spent with Lord Granville at
+Walmer, which he said was delightful. The castle so close to the sea
+that the big ships passed almost under the windows; Granville himself a
+charming host. He knows France and the French well, having been a great
+deal in Paris as a boy when his father was British Ambassador to Louis
+Philippe (1830-4); Lord Palmerston was then British Foreign Secretary.
+
+We are very busy these days making our "pacquets," as we leave in three
+days. I am sorry to go, as I have so much enjoyed the quiet life with
+the sisters and the children. We have seen few people, as we are not in
+the fashionable quarter, but we have become most intimate with all the
+fishing population. The young women and girls jibe at us when we go
+shrimp fishing, on terms of perfect equality--there are no distinctions
+in the sea--because we have not the sleight of hand necessary to jerk
+the shining, slippery little fish into the basket from the net. Some
+local swell, the Mayor, I think, came to see me the other day, and was
+told I was on the beach, so he came down and was much astonished when
+they pointed out to him Madame l'Ambassadrice in a hat and feathers,
+diamond ear-rings, very short skirts, and neither shoes nor stockings,
+walking up to her knees in the water with a fishing-net in one hand and
+a basket in the other, and followed by her little son and niece
+similarly equipped, all quite happy and engrossed with their sport. We
+have one or two country visits to make, and then I must have some time
+in Paris to dismantle my house and make my preparations for London.
+
+
+    _To J. K._
+
+    #Mersham Hatch, Ashford, Kent#,
+    Wednesday, November 28, 1883.
+
+You will say I am taking up my old habits of writing to you always from
+the country, but you cannot imagine how busy I have been in London since
+I came over just 2 weeks ago to-day.
+
+We came down here Monday afternoon to stay with W.'s old college friend
+and cousin, Charles Monk. The house and park are charming--quantities of
+large, comfortable rooms, and capital shooting. The gentlemen brought
+down a great many pheasants yesterday. The party in the house are Lord
+and Lady Abinger and Miss Scarlett, Sir George and Lady Chetwode, Mr.
+Leveson-Gower, a brother of Lord Granville, with a most polished
+courteous manner; a Mr. Price W. Powel, and a young Wm. Gladstone,
+nephew of the Premier. Monk has no wife, and three unmarried daughters;
+the eldest, Julia, does the honours very well and simply. I absolutely
+declined the 9.30 breakfast and asked to have my tea sent up to me.
+
+Yesterday I came down about 12, took a little turn in the garden until
+one, and at 1.30 had luncheon. Then we went for a drive to Eastwood, the
+Duke of Edinburgh's place. The house is not so large as this, but the
+park is charming, with quantities of deer. We had tea when we came
+in--some of the gentlemen appeared and we dined at 8, all the ladies
+most gorgeous in satin, lace, and diamonds, the girls generally in
+white. After dinner we talked a little, then some of them played whist,
+and the young ladies sang. This morning the gentlemen have started again
+shooting, and I shall sit in my room quite quietly until 12, which gives
+me an hour and a half with the ladies before luncheon.
+
+[Illustration: The Dining room of the French Embassy, London,
+Showing its Two Famous Gobelin Tapestries]
+
+    Thursday, 29th.
+
+W. is off again "running for partridges," whatever that may mean, and at
+3 we go back to London. He has a big dinner somewhere to-night.
+Yesterday two ladies came over to luncheon, and in the afternoon Julia
+Monk and I took a drive in the pony carriage to meet the sportsmen, who
+had a very busy day. In the evening we made a little music, Miss
+Scarlett played very well. I expect to be very busy all this next week
+in London. The workmen will be out of the drawing-rooms, and I shall get
+all kinds of little odd tables and chairs and unpack my own bibelots.
+The carriages arrive, too, and we must decide about horses. Two English
+giants are engaged as footmen, of equal height, to go on the gala
+carriage, and we have our own two Frenchmen, one of whom is very tall.
+He and Adelaide came down here with us, and Adelaide is much entertained
+at the respect with which she is treated. She looked quite a swell
+yesterday with her black silk dress, but she says the other maids are
+much more dressy, attired in black velvet and satin and open dresses.
+Soon there will be nothing left for the mistresses.
+
+I will stop now, as I must be down a little earlier this morning. I hope
+you will soon be settled in Washington, and that the children will have
+no more scarlet fever or measles complications.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #French Embassy, Albert Gate#,
+    December 1, 1883.
+
+I am gradually settling down, but everything, hours, service, habits,
+servants, is so different that I still feel rather strange. I quite
+sympathised with Francis, who was already unhappy at leaving Paris and
+his dear "Nounou," and very much put out with his new German governess
+who was deadly ill crossing. His woes culminated on arriving at Albert
+Gate, when he was solemnly conducted upstairs by a very tall footman to
+his room (a nice large nursery and bedroom giving on the Park), and he
+wept bitterly and refused to eat any dinner or to have his coat and hat
+taken off. A great many people have been to see us, and we shall have
+some quiet dinners--and a shooting party at Mr. Monk's one of these
+days.
+
+The shooting party at Mr. Monk's was pleasant. He has a fine large house
+and capital shooting. The ladies walked about a little and followed some
+battues, and everyone assembled in the drawing-room for tea. All the
+women in full dress and diamonds for dinner.
+
+Our Harcourt dinner was pleasant. Sir William is charming--such an easy
+talker, with no pose of any kind. It is decided that Lady Harcourt
+presents me to the Queen. Lady Granville is away, and it falls upon her
+as wife of the Home Secretary. Sir William had been to Windsor, and had
+told the Queen of the curious coincidence--the French Ambassadress, an
+American, presented by the wife of the British Home Secretary, also an
+American,[8] and an amie d'enfance of Mrs. Waddington. I had some little
+difficulty in finding out what I was to wear (as there is little
+etiquette at the English Court upon these occasions), but they finally
+told me ordinary visiting dress, so I shall wear my blue velvet. We go
+down to lunch and see the Queen afterward.
+
+[8] Lady Harcourt is a daughter of the late John Lothrop Motley, the
+historian.
+
+    December 7, 1883.
+
+I have had my audience to-day, and will write to you at once while I
+still remember it all. First I must tell you about Francis. He heard
+someone asking me the other day if I had been yet to see the Queen. I
+saw his face change a little, so when we were alone, he said,
+tremulously, "Tu vas voir la Reine?" "Oui, mon fils." "Est-elle toujours
+si mechante?" "Mais la Reine n'est pas mechante, mon enfant." "Elle ne
+vas pas te faire couper la tete?" Evidently his mind had been running on
+the Tower of London, where we went the other day, and where the block on
+which Anne Boleyn and Lady Jane Grey had their heads cut off was of
+course shown. When he heard I was going to see the Queen, his heart
+failed him, and I had some difficulty in comforting him, and explaining
+that sovereigns in these days didn't have recourse to such extreme
+measures (at least in civilised countries. I suppose the Shah of Persia
+wouldn't hesitate to dispose of a head that was in his way).
+
+Lady Harcourt and I started for Paddington at 1 o'clock, and got to
+Windsor a little before two. We found a landau with two servants in
+plain black liveries waiting for us, and we drove at once to the Castle.
+It was a beautiful bright day, but snow had fallen heavily in the
+country, so that the old gray walls and round towers stood out
+splendidly as we drove up. We drove through several courts and finally
+drew up at an entrance where there were five servants in the royal red
+liveries with crape on their sleeves (all the Queen's household are
+always in mourning), a big Highlander in full dress, and a butler in
+black who ushered us into a large drawing-room with an enormous
+bow-window looking on the Park. Instantly there appeared Lady Erroll,
+lady in waiting, and four maids of honour. Lady Erroll shook hands and
+introduced the maids of honour, who made us low curtseys. Then came Lord
+Methuen--Lord in waiting--and we went at once in to luncheon. Everything
+was served on silver plate; there were four footmen and a butler, but
+the repast was of the simplest description--an ordinary English
+luncheon--roast mutton, fowl, pudding, apple-tart, etc. After luncheon
+we talked a little, and then Sir Henry Ponsonby appeared to give Lady
+Harcourt her last instructions. It was the first time she had presented
+an Ambassadress in a private audience. Precisely at three a servant in
+black appeared and said, "Will you come to see the Queen?" Lady
+Harcourt, Ponsonby, and I proceeded down a handsome long corridor filled
+with pictures, vitrines, of china principally, and old furniture, to a
+room at one end where a footman was standing. Sir Henry opened the door,
+Lady Harcourt made a low curtsey at the threshold, saying, "I have the
+honour to present the French Ambassadress," and then immediately backed
+herself out, and I found myself in the room. I made a first low curtsey,
+but before I had time to make another the Queen, who was standing in the
+middle of the room with Princess Beatrice, advanced a step, shook hands,
+and said, with a very pretty smile and manner, "I am very glad to see
+you." She asked me to sit down, and talked a great deal, was most
+gracious, asked me if I was getting accustomed to the climate and the
+stairs, whether I had seen all my "colleagues," and how many children I
+had. When I said one little boy whom I had left in London, she asked me
+what he was doing; I thought I would tell her about his fears for his
+mother's head, so I replied he was trembling at home until his mother
+should return. She looked a little surprised, but was really amused, and
+laughed when I told her his preoccupations; said, "Poor little boy, how
+glad he will be to see his mother back with her head on her shoulders."
+
+Princess Beatrice took no part in the conversation. She looked smiling
+and very intelligent. The Queen was very simply dressed in black, with
+her white widow's cap and veil, no ornaments, but a gold chain and
+pearls around her neck, and a medallion with a portrait of a man in
+uniform, whom I supposed to be Prince Albert. I think the interview
+lasted about fifteen minutes. Then the Queen arose, shook hands, and
+said she hoped my husband and I would like the life in England. Princess
+Beatrice shook hands--I backed myself out, and it was over. I was very
+much impressed with the Queen's personality. She is short, stout, and
+her face rather red, but there is a great air of dignity and
+self-possession, and a beautiful smile which lights up her whole face.
+
+I never could find out any minor details in dress, as to taking off
+veil, gloves, etc., but I did as I had done with other Royalties and
+took off veil and gloves, which I hope was right.
+
+Lady Harcourt and Ponsonby were waiting for me in the corridor, and
+seemed to think my audience had been longer than usual--were also
+surprised that the Queen made me sit down. It seems she sometimes
+receives standing all the time, at a first formal presentation.
+
+As we had some little time before starting for the station, Ponsonby
+showed us part of the Castle. The great halls, St. George's and
+Waterloo, are very fine, and it was interesting to see the great
+pictures which one has always seen reproduced in engravings--the Queen's
+Marriage, Coronation, Reception of King Louis Philippe, Baptism of the
+Prince of Wales, etc. One room was beautiful, filled with Van Dycks. We
+went back to the station in the same carriage, and Lady Harcourt and I
+talked hard all the way home. It was certainly a very simple affair; as
+little etiquette as possible, but the Castle was fine. The old gray
+fortress and its towers and crenellated walls, the home of the sovereign
+who lives there with little pomp and few guards--guarded by her people,
+in the same Castle, and the same surroundings as when she began her long
+reign, a mere girl. When one thinks of all the changes she has seen in
+other countries--kingdoms and dynasties disappearing--one can realise
+what a long wise rule hers has been. It is such a contrast to my last
+Royal Audience at Moscow, which now seems a confused memory of Court
+officials, uniforms, gold-laced coats, jewelled canes (I can see one of
+the Chamberlains who had an enormous sapphire at the end of his staff),
+princes, peasants, Cossacks, costumes of every description, court
+carriages, Russian carriages, the famous attelage of three horses, every
+language under the sun, and all jostling and crowding each other in the
+courts of the Kremlin--with its wonderful churches and domes of every
+possible colour from pink to green--only soldiers, soldiers everywhere,
+and the people kept at a distance--very unlike what I have just seen
+here.
+
+    Sunday, December 16, 1883.
+
+This afternoon we have had our audience of the Prince and Princess of
+Wales--W. and I together. We got to Marlborough House a little before 4,
+and were shown at once into a room on the ground floor, where we found
+Miss Knollys and a gentleman in waiting. In a few minutes Sir Dighton
+Probyn, comptroller of the household, appeared and took us upstairs to a
+large, handsome salon. He opened the door, and we found the Prince and
+Princess standing. The room was filled with pretty things. The Princess
+was dressed in blue velvet (I too--I daresay Fromont made both dresses),
+and looked charming, no older than when I had seen her in Paris three or
+four years ago, and with that same beautiful slight figure and gracious
+manner.
+
+[Illustration: J J Jusserand Counsellor of the French Embassy, 1883
+
+Recently appointed French Ambassador to the United States
+
+From a photograph by Walery, Paris]
+
+While the Prince and W. were talking she asked me a great deal about
+Moscow and the Coronation, and particularly if the Empress was well
+dressed always, as she had been rather bothered with the quantity of
+dresses, manteaux de cour, etc., that she was obliged to have. The
+Prince remembered that I was the granddaughter of Rufus King, who had
+been United States Minister to London under George III. He was very
+pleasant, with a charming, courteous manner. The Princess instantly
+referred to Francis and his fears for his mother's head, of which she
+said the Queen had told her.
+
+    Friday, 21st.
+
+This afternoon we had tea with the Duke and Duchess of Albany. She is a
+German Princess, and was rather shy at first, but when the tea came it
+was easier. The Duke is very amiable, talks easily. He looks, and is, I
+believe, delicate. We have a few dinners before us, and I am gradually
+getting to know all my colleagues. Mohrenheim is Russian Ambassador;
+Muenster German; and Nigra Italian. Muenster is practically an Englishman.
+His second wife was Lady Harriet St. Clair, a sister of Lord Rosslyn. He
+is evidently English in his tastes and habits, rides regularly in the
+Park, and drives a coach with four chestnuts that are known all over
+London. Mr. Lowell is United States Minister, and is much liked and
+appreciated in England. Mrs. Lowell is in bad health and goes out very
+little.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    January 5, 1884.
+
+This afternoon we had our audience from the old Duchess of Cambridge. We
+found her in handsome rooms in St. James's Palace, and one lady in
+waiting with her. She was lying on a sofa--she is very old,
+eighty-four--has seen and known everyone, and talks easily both French
+and English. It really seemed a page of history to listen to her. She
+asked us to come back, and Lady G. told us that when she felt well,
+visits were a great pleasure to her, and also that she was always glad
+to see any members of the French Embassy.
+
+We got home to tea--and then I had various skirmishes with the servants.
+It really is difficult to make French and English servants work
+together. The butler is an Englishman, and directs all the men of the
+house. It is not easy to make the Frenchmen take their orders from him.
+They all want to be in direct communication with me. There are always
+two together in the hall--one Frenchman and one Englishman, and the
+result of that is that when anything goes wrong, and the bell is not
+answered, the Frenchman tells me he was not there, it was the
+Englishman's turn; and of course the Englishman the same--so now I have
+told Holmes (the butler) to make me out a regular paper every Monday
+with the men's names and their hours of service--Yves et George, 10-12;
+William and Charles, 12-2--I hope that will work. As to Hubert he hasn't
+driven me yet. He goes about London all day in a brougham, with one of
+those non-descript English servants, half French, half English, that we
+got from the British Embassy in Paris. I find the domestic part of the
+Embassy rather a bore, but I suppose things will settle down. The
+housemaids are a delightful institution, though I was amazed upon
+inquiring one day from my own maid as to who was a young lady with a red
+velvet dress, and a large hat and feathers, I had met on the stairs,
+when she replied, "C'est Alice, Madame, la seconde fille de chambre." It
+seems that my maid remonstrated with her for spending her money on
+clothes, to which she replied that all housemaids in big houses dressed
+like that, and that she herself would be ashamed if she dressed as
+plainly as my maids. The two thrifty Frenchwomen were scandalised.
+
+[Illustration: The Duchess of Cambridge
+
+From a photograph by Walery London.]
+
+    #London#,
+    January 9, 1884.
+
+I paid a visit to-day to the Dowager Lady Stanley of Alderley. I found
+her at her tea-table in her drawing-room, with Mr. Gladstone having his
+cup of tea with her, and talking easily and cheerfully about all sorts
+of things (never a word of politics); no one would have imagined that he
+was to make a great speech that evening in the House. He really is an
+extraordinary, many-sided man. In the course of conversation the talk
+fell upon the Roman Catholic religion, and its extension in many
+countries, _particularly in America_. He said, turning to me, that a
+great friend of his, an American, Mr. Hurlbert, certainly the most
+brilliant talker he had ever heard, and one of the most intelligent, had
+told him how much the Roman Catholic religion was gaining ground in the
+Northern States of America. I rather demurred to his statement, even
+though it came from Mr. Hurlbert. His intelligence and brilliancy are
+undeniable, but I should have thought his views were a little fantastic
+at times. "I rather agree with you," said Mr. Gladstone; "but I have
+recently had letters from my friends Bishop P. of New York, Bishop A. of
+Massachusetts, and other distinguished Churchmen in the United States,
+who tell me that the Roman Catholic religion is making certain progress;
+their preachers are so clever, and know so well how to adapt themselves
+to the liberal views they must have in America." We then talked some
+time about the various Bishops and clergymen he knew in America, the
+slight difference between the two Prayer Books, etc. One would really
+have thought it was a Church of England clergyman, who has passed all
+his life studying theological questions. A few moments after something
+turned his thoughts in another direction, and he was discussing with
+Lady Stanley the translation into English of an Italian sonnet which he
+thought was badly done. "Too literal, really not understanding the
+poetry, and the beautiful imagination of the writer." It was
+extraordinary. I was rather mortified when he asked if I knew the two
+Bishops. I didn't, but it is fair to say he understood when I said how
+many years I had been away from America.
+
+Lady Stanley is a delightful old lady. She has seen and known everyone
+worth knowing in Europe for the last fifty years, and it is most amusing
+to hear her down-right way of talking. She was killing over the
+"Professional Beauties," a style of modern woman she couldn't
+understand. She asked me to come in again and have a cup of tea with
+her, and I shall certainly go, as one doesn't hear such talk every day.
+
+We dined with Mr. Childers, and there was a big reception in the
+evening, with all the celebrities of the Liberal party, the Harcourts,
+Hayters, Lord Northbrook, Tennyson (son of the poet), and many others,
+but of course in a crowd like that one can't talk. I hope I shall
+remember the faces. About 11 o'clock we went on to Lady Stanhope's,
+where there was a big reception of the Conservative party. There I found
+the Lyttons and some few people I knew, and many more were presented.
+They were all talking politics hard; said the Ministry couldn't last
+another week, as there is to be a vigorous attack on them in both Houses
+on Tuesday. Everyone says the Lyttons are going to Paris when Lord Lyons
+leaves. She will be a charming Ambassadress, and he is so fond of France
+and so thoroughly well up in French literature that they will be
+delighted to have him in Paris.
+
+The political talk was exactly like what I have heard so often in Paris,
+only in English instead of in French, and the men talking more quietly,
+though they abused one another well, and with less gesticulating. Also
+they don't carry politics into private life as they do with us; the men
+of opposite sides lavish abuse upon each other in the House, but there
+it ends, and they meet at dinner and chaff each other, and the wives are
+perfectly intimate. In France there is a great gulf between parties,
+even moderates, royalists, and republicans, and I was astounded when I
+first mixed in political life in France to see people in society turn
+their backs upon some perfectly distinguished, honourable gentleman
+because he had not the same opinion as themselves in politics.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Sandringham#,
+    January 12, 1884.
+
+We arrived this afternoon at two o'clock, and I am writing in my room,
+as we have come up to bed, and the gentlemen have retired to smoke. We
+came down at 2-1/2, found a saloon carriage reserved for us, and the
+Mohrenheims installed--father, mother, and daughter. We got to Wolverton
+at six, one of the Prince's gentlemen was waiting for us with two or
+three carriages and footmen. We had all sent our servants and baggage by
+an earlier train, as it had been suggested to us. The house looked large
+and handsome as we drove up. The party was assembled in a great hall,
+with a long low tea-table at which the Princess presided. It was easy
+enough, and I should think a nice party. The Goschens, Lady Lonsdale,
+the Master of Magdalen, Lord Carlingford, and others. The three young
+Princesses, Prince Eddy, and the Prince were all there. We talked some
+little time and then the Princess said Miss Knollys would show us our
+rooms. I found two large comfortable English rooms opening into each
+other, a blazing coal fire in mine, which I immediately proceeded to
+demolish as much as I could. Miss Knollys had told us not to bring low
+dresses--merely open bodices.
+
+We went down to the drawing-room about 8-1/2, and a little before 9 the
+Prince and Princess and Prince Albert Victor (better known as Prince
+Eddy) came in. The dinner was handsome and pleasant, footmen in royal
+red liveries, men in black in culottes and silk stockings, and a
+Highlander in full dress, who stood behind the Prince's chair, and at
+the end of the dinner walked solemnly round the table playing the
+bagpipes. The evening was pleasant. The Prince showed us the new
+ballroom just redecorated with Indian stuffs and arms, and at 11 we went
+upstairs with the Princess, bidding her good-night at the top of the
+stairs, and the men went to the smoking-room.
+
+    Sunday.
+
+This morning we went to church, the ladies in an omnibus with the
+Princess and her three daughters, and the gentlemen walked across the
+Park, the Prince appearing as the sermon began. It is a pretty English
+country church in the grounds. In the afternoon we walked about the
+grounds; I was much interested in the large stables, where there are
+certainly over fifty horses.
+
+We had changed our dresses after lunch for walking, and the Princess
+looked marvellously young in her short walking skirt and little toque.
+One could hardly believe she was the mother of her big son, twenty-one
+years old. After the walk we assembled again in the big hall for tea, a
+substantial meal with every variety of muffin, crumpet, toast, cakes and
+jam that can be imagined, but it seemed quite natural to consume
+unlimited quantities after our long walk. The Princess and English
+ladies were in very dressy tea-gowns, velvet and satin with lace and
+embroidery; Madame de Mohrenheim and I in ordinary tailor costumes. The
+evening was pleasant; I remarked the absence of the Highland piper at
+dinner, and asked the Prince if he was not going to play. "Oh, no," he
+said, "not on Sunday, he certainly wouldn't; I shouldn't like to ask him
+to, and if I did I am sure he wouldn't do it." We all leave to-morrow,
+the Prince going with us to London. We have enjoyed our visit very much,
+the Princess always charming and lovely to look at, and the Prince a
+model host, so courteous and ready to talk about anything.
+
+    Monday.
+
+We got off this morning at 11 o'clock. There is one curious custom. The
+Prince himself weighs everyone, and the name and weight are written in a
+book. Some of the ladies protested, but it was of no use, the Prince
+insisted. One young lady weighed more than her father, and was much
+mortified.
+
+I went downstairs to breakfast, which I don't generally do; I keep to my
+old habit of a cup of tea in my room. It was a most informal meal. None
+of the Royal family appeared, except Prince Eddy, who was going to hunt,
+and his red coat made a nice patch of colour. All the rest of us sat
+down anywhere, and the servants brought the menu. We travelled up with
+the Prince in his private car, and had luncheon in the car, served by
+two tall footmen, and everything on silver plate and hot. The Prince
+himself quite charming, talking a great deal, and seeing that everyone
+had enough to eat. I should think all servants, railway guards, and
+small functionaries generally would adore him. He has always a pleasant
+word and a smile.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    January 31, 1884.
+
+We have had two days in the country with the D.s at their little hunting
+box at Bicester, one of the great hunting centres. It was my first
+experience of an English hunt and hunt ball, and amused me perfectly.
+The house is small, with enormous stables and splendid horses. His four
+in hand is well known, one of the best in England, and the coach and
+servants so perfectly turned out. We have two young German secretaries,
+good-looking Teutons, and two girls who have just returned from a four
+months' excursion in the tropics with the Brasseys in their beautiful
+yacht, the "Sunbeam."
+
+We started on the coach on Tuesday at 10.30, well wrapped up, as there
+were occasional showers and violent gusts of wind, particularly when we
+stopped at crossroads to see which way the hunt was going. The meet was
+at Middleton Park, Lord Jersey's fine place, and the park was a pretty
+sight as we drove up. A good many people, almost all the men in pink,
+but not so many women as I had expected to see. We really followed very
+well, as D. knows the ground perfectly and apparently at what spot the
+fox was to cross the road, which he did close to us, followed by the
+whole hunt, all jumping out of the field on to the road and back again
+into the other field, very good fences, too, but the horses evidently
+knew just what they had to do. We drove about till 3 o'clock, and then
+went back to Middleton to have luncheon. We found a most hospitable
+table, and it was funny to see the people dropping in at intervals, some
+of the men in their red coats, one or two ladies, and two or three
+children who had been scampering about on ponies. Evidently the meal had
+been going on for some time, and the supply inexhaustible; we had a very
+good hot luncheon.
+
+After lunch Lady Jersey (who is charming, very intelligent, and
+interested in everything) showed us the house. Beautiful pictures and
+old furniture, a massive silver table that was the dressing table of
+Queen Elizabeth. Of course we hadn't time to really see all the
+interesting things in the house, as it was getting late, and we still
+had a fair drive before us. Notwithstanding the good and late luncheon
+we were very glad to have tea when we got home. I certainly eat much
+more here, I suppose it is the climate, and then the food is a little
+different from what we are accustomed to, and I think very good.
+
+The hunt ball was really very pretty, the ballroom well arranged with
+foxes' heads, brushes, etc., all the men in pink. Everyone was "en
+train," and everybody of all ages dancing. I should think W. and D. were
+the only men in the room who didn't dance. They went home about 12, but
+H. and I stayed until 2. We heard afterward that the Master of Hounds
+was much depressed all the evening, as he knew he must take the French
+Ambassadress to supper (of course, he didn't know that I was American
+born, and could speak English), and the prospect of a long conversation
+in French with a woman he didn't know filled him with dismay. However we
+made friends (in English), and I hope he didn't find the supper hour too
+tiresome. There are two reasons why an Englishman hates to speak French;
+first, a sort of natural timidity which they all have more or less, and
+then a decided objection to doing anything he doesn't want to do, or
+which bores him. This country is certainly a Paradise for men, from the
+nursery days when all the women of the household--nurses, maids, and
+sisters, are slaves of the boys, to manhood, when equally all the women
+do exactly what the men want, and regulate their lives to suit the men
+of the family, who have everything their own way.
+
+    #London#,
+    February, 1884.
+
+I made my debut in the official world last night at a reception at Mr.
+Gladstone's in Downing Street. There were four large men's dinners (and
+receptions afterward) for the opening of Parliament. Lord Granville and
+Mr. Gladstone, Ministerial; Lord Salisbury and Sir Stafford Northcote,
+"Her Majesty's Opposition."
+
+The Gladstone house is small and dark (that is one of the things that
+strikes me here--the rooms are so much less lighted than in Paris), and
+always the chintz covers left on the furniture, which makes the rooms
+look ordinary. We found a great many people there. The Duke of Cambridge
+had been dining and was presented to us. He looks a fine old English
+soldier (was in uniform), was very amiable, and spoke to me in French,
+which he speaks very well. Quantities of people were presented to me, I
+can't remember half the names. Almost all the women were in black,
+half-high and no display of jewels. Mrs. Gladstone is an old lady, very
+animated and civil, she wears a cap, with blue ribbons, rather as I
+remember Mother. I was also presented to Countess Karolyi, Austrian
+Ambassadress, very handsome, and charming manner; she speaks English as
+well as I do. It seems strange to me to hear so much English spoken, it
+is so long since I have been in a purely English salon. W. brought me up
+various old friends of Rugby and Cambridge days; also some of the minor
+diplomats, as of course I have not yet seen all my colleagues.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    February, 1884.
+
+I am rather bewildered by the number of people I see and the quantity of
+cards left at the Embassy. I shall have to ask an English friend of mine
+to look over my list and tell me who the people are, and, above all,
+which cards I must return personally (or even make a personal visit) and
+which can be distributed by the Chancellerie. I drive about every
+afternoon for two hours leaving cards, and as no one has regular
+reception days here as in Paris, I rarely find people. We have had
+various dinners, political chiefly, at Mr. Gladstone's, Lord Stanhope's,
+Lord Northbrook's, a child's party at Marlborough House, which was very
+pretty. Francis made great friends with the two charming little
+daughters of the Duchess of Edinburgh, and sat between them at tea, the
+Duchess herself supplying them with cakes and sandwiches.
+
+Yesterday there was a pleasant dinner at Lord Granville's. Two tables of
+12; one presided over by him and one by Lady Granville. Her table was
+covered with red tulips, and his with yellow--nothing but flowers on the
+table. The drawing-rooms are large and handsome, and he has some
+splendid pictures. One thing seems curious to me--all the furniture at
+this season is covered with ordinary chintz housses or coverings--and
+the effect is strange with all the guests in full dress, diamonds and
+orders, servants in powder and breeches. We would never dream of doing
+it in Paris. When we have distinguished people of any kind to dine we
+make our salons as pretty as possible, and would want particularly to
+uncover our handsome furniture. Here it seems they consider that the
+season only begins after Easter.
+
+Apropos of powder, it was rather an affair to put the two French footmen
+in powder, as they of course had never worn it or seen it. Francis was
+much excited at Yves' appearance in blue velvet breeches and powder,
+Yves being a young Breton, his own special attendant. I think the maids
+powdered him in the laundry. However Francis came flying downstairs
+holding the reluctant Yves by the hand, to my room, saying, "Oh, Maman,
+viens voir Yves, il est joli, joli!" with the youth naturally much
+abashed at being so complimented in my presence.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    February 29, 1884.
+
+We are commanded to Windsor this evening to dine and sleep. It is
+inconvenient, as we have to put off a dinner of twenty-one people. The
+chef is tearing his hair, as of course all his dinner is ready. When my
+maid came to pack the trunks she had rather a flustered look; I thought
+it was on account of the Windsor visit. Not at all. It seems a friend of
+Juteau's (our chef), who is also a chef in one of the great houses,
+heard that we were going to Windsor, so he wrote him a note telling him
+that his wife (my maid) must be well dressed and take a low or open
+bodice to Windsor for their dinner. The maid was most indignant for
+being supposed not to know what was right, and answered the note saying,
+"she had accompanied her mistress to every court in Europe, and knew
+quite well how to dress herself."
+
+    #Windsor Castle#,
+    March 1, 1884.
+
+Our dinner last night went off very well, and was not so stiff as I had
+expected. We took the 6 o'clock train from Paddington, and found the
+Russian Ambassador, Baron Mohrenheim, and his wife at the station. At
+Windsor two or three carriages and footmen were waiting, but no equerry
+as at Sandringham. We were driven to a side door at the Castle, where
+two servants in plain black were waiting, who showed us at once to our
+rooms. We had a pretty apartment furnished in yellow satin, with
+beautiful pictures, principally portraits; a small salon with a bedroom
+on each side, bright fires burning, and a quantity of candles. They
+brought us tea, beautifully served all on silver, with thin bread and
+butter (no muffins or toast), and almost at the same moment Sir John
+Cowell, Master of the Household, came to pay us a visit. He told us who
+the party was, said dinner was at 8.45, that a page would come and tell
+us at 8.30, and that we should assemble in the great corridor. Quite
+punctually at 8.30 they notified us, and we proceeded down the long
+corridor, W. in black breeches and stockings (no order, as he hadn't the
+Legion d'Honneur, and couldn't wear a foreign order), I in white
+brocaded velvet and diamonds. We found the party assembled, the
+Mohrenheims; Lord and Lady Kimberley; Nigra, Italian Ambassador; Lady
+Churchill (who was in waiting); Lord Kenmare (Lord Chamberlain), and
+Lord Dalhousie (Lord in waiting) and one or two other men. We moved up
+to a door just opposite the dining-room, and about 9 the Queen came with
+the Duchess of Edinburgh and Princess Beatrice. She shook hands with me
+and Madame Mohrenheim; bowed very graciously to all the others, and
+passed at once into the dining-room alone. Mohrenheim followed with the
+Duchess of Edinburgh; Nigra with Princess Beatrice; W. with Madame
+Mohrenheim; and Kimberley took me. The table was handsome, covered with
+gold and silver plate, quantities of servants in red livery, plain
+black, and two Highlanders in costume behind the Queen's chair.
+
+The conversation was not very animated. The Queen herself spoke little,
+and the English not at all--or so low that one couldn't understand
+them--however, my Ambassador couldn't stand that long, so he began
+talking most cheerfully to the Duchess of Edinburgh about Moscow,
+Kertch, and antiquities of various kinds, and as the Duchess is clever
+and inclined to talk, that corner became more lively. I can't say as
+much for our end. I think most Englishmen are naturally shy, and the
+presence of Royalty (the Queen above all) paralyses them.
+
+[Illustration: Windsor Castle]
+
+After dinner, which was quickly served, we all went out as we had come
+in, and the Queen held a short cercle in the corridor, in the small
+space between the two doors. She stood a few minutes talking to the two
+Princesses, while she had her coffee (which was brought for her alone on
+a small tray), and then crossed over to Madame Mohrenheim and talked a
+little. She sat down almost immediately, Madame Mohrenheim remaining
+standing. She then sent for me, Lord Dalhousie summoning us all in turn.
+She was very gracious, saying that she could not yet stand or walk,
+which worried her very much--asked me a great deal about my life in
+London, did I find everything very different from Paris, and had I found
+little friends and a school for Francis? The conversation was not easy.
+She sat on rather a low chair, and I standing before her had to bend
+down always. She was dressed in black, with her usual little cap and
+veil, opal necklace, diamonds and orders. While she was talking to the
+others the two Princesses moved about and talked to us. It was
+pleasant--the whole cercle lasted about an hour. The Queen and
+Princesses retired together, all shaking hands with me and Madame
+Mohrenheim, and bowing to the others. We finished the evening in the
+drawing-room with the household, staying there about half an hour, and a
+little after eleven we broke up. W. has gone off to smoke--at the
+extreme end of the Castle, as the Queen hates smoke and perhaps doesn't
+know that anyone dares smoke here--and I am writing with about twelve
+tall wax candles on my table.
+
+It is a bright moonlight night, and the Castle looks enormous. A great
+mass of towers, vaulted gateways, walled courts, and the beautiful grass
+slopes that look quite green in the moonlight. The lights at the far end
+seem like twinkling tapers. It is certainly a magnificent Royal
+residence.
+
+    Saturday, March 1884.
+
+We got back for lunch, leaving the Castle at 10.30. We breakfasted with
+the household at 9.30; no ceremony, people coming in as they liked, and
+sitting down anywhere. We loitered a little in the corridor until it was
+time to start, looking at the pictures, portraits, and the curious
+cabinets and the bits of old furniture which are interesting.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    March 14, 1884.
+
+To-day was our first Drawing-room, and we turned out in great force, I
+had three secretaries' wives. We had out our two carriages. W. and I in
+the gala carriage with Count de Florian, Secretary of Embassy, Hubert
+driving us, and two English giants behind; then came the landau with
+merely one footman on the box, all in full dress livery, blue breeches,
+silk stockings, and powdered wigs. There was a great display of troops,
+and a crowd waiting on the pavement outside the door at the Embassy to
+see us start. There are no porte-cocheres in London, so you go straight
+out into the street to get your carriages, and a carpet is kept in the
+hall, which is rolled down the steps every time you go out. The streets
+were crowded as we came near Buckingham Palace.
+
+We entered the Palace by a side entrance, leaving our wraps in one of
+the rooms, and went up the great staircase, which was a pretty sight.
+Quantities of plants and flowers and a long procession of women with
+handsome Court dresses, splendid tiaras, and a few men in uniform--of
+course women preponderate. We walked through various rooms all filled
+with Court functionaries, officers in uniform, and finally arrived in
+the large salon opening into the Throne-Room where all the Corps
+Diplomatique and English people who had the entree were assembled.
+Countess Granville, wife of the Foreign Secretary, Earl Granville,
+looked most distinguished, tall and fair, in black with a handsome
+tiara. Countess Karolyi, Austrian Ambassadress, was beautiful in her
+Hungarian costume and splendid jewels. The Russians also most
+picturesque in their national court dress, red velvet trains heavily
+embroidered in gold, white veils spangled with gold, and the high
+head-dress (kakoshnik) in velvet studded with jewels.
+
+When the doors were opened the Foreign Secretary and his wife passed
+first and took up their station close beside the Princess of Wales, to
+name the members of the Corps Diplomatique. Then the Master of
+Ceremonies gave his hand to the Doyenne--the Austrian Ambassadress--her
+train was spread out by two pages,--and they entered the Throne-Room,
+making low bows or curtseys on the threshold. One makes 3 curtseys; one
+on entering the room, one half way and a third as one gets close to the
+Princess. We followed quickly, I with my ladies coming directly behind
+the Russians. The Court was small--Princess of Wales, Princess Beatrice,
+Prince of Wales and Duke of Cambridge. The Princess, a charming graceful
+figure dressed in dark velvet with coloured embroideries and jewels and
+orders; Princess Beatrice in mauve, and the two Princes in uniform of
+English Field Marshal. The Princesses shook hands with us chefesses and
+bowed to the young ladies--the Princes the same. There was no sort of
+trouble about the train; they are down only for a moment, just as you
+pass the Queen or Princess--a chamberlain picks them up most adroitly,
+puts them in your arm, and one never gives them a thought. As soon as we
+had passed the group of Princes we turned into a deep window recess and
+stood there until the end. That was most amusing, as we faced the door
+and saw everyone come in. It amused and interested me extremely to see
+how differently people passed. Most of the women looked well, their
+fresh, fair skins standing the test--and a pretty severe one it is--of
+full dress, white feathers and veil at three in the afternoon of a cold
+March day. Many had been dressed since 12, first sitting a long time in
+their carriages, and then waiting a long time in the drawing-room at the
+Palace, until their turns came. They were generally timid and nervous
+when they passed--some bracing themselves as if they were facing a
+terrible ordeal, some racing past very quickly, forgetting to take their
+trains in their arms, and pursued down the room by an impatient
+chamberlain, and some, especially the debutantes, making carefully and
+conscientiously the low regulation curtsey to each Prince, and trembling
+with shyness. When the last person had passed the Court turned and made
+us bows and curtseys--the Princess' half curtsey is charming--and it was
+over. We all got away quickly.
+
+The great hall was an interesting sight, filled with women and uniforms
+of every kind, and a band playing in the great square. We had the usual
+"Drawing-room tea" to show our dresses. I wore the blue embroidered
+Court dress I had made for Moscow, with blue feathers and diamond tiara.
+All the English women wear white feathers and veils, which naturally
+does not suit everyone, particularly if they are not well put on. Some
+of the coiffures were almost eccentric, one rather high feather, and a
+long one very low running down one's back. The young men were pleased,
+as they had many compliments for our carriages and liveries. We were the
+only Embassy that had out two carriages.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #London#,
+    May, 1884.
+
+We went to the Derby this morning with Lord Cork. I had never been, and
+W. not for many years. We went down by train--(special, with the Prince
+and racing coterie) and I enjoyed the day. We were in the Jockey Club
+box, and it was a curiosity to see the crowd on the lawn, packed tight,
+and every description of person, all engrossed with the race, and wildly
+interested in the horses. There was almost a solemn silence just before
+the Derby was run. This time there was a tie, which is rare, I believe.
+It was rather amusing driving home from Victoria, as all the balconies
+along the road were decorated, and crowded with people, but I believe
+the great fashion of driving down had almost disappeared. Nearly
+everyone now goes down by train.
+
+    #London#,
+    June 28, 1884.
+
+This morning H. and I went to the second meet of the Coaching Club on
+D.'s coach. It was a pretty sight; a bright beautiful morning and Hyde
+Park crowded with equipages, riders, and pedestrians--quantities of
+pretty women all much dressed, principally in white, with hats trimmed
+with flowers, and light parasols. The tops of the coaches looked like
+flower beds. Everyone engrossed with the teams, criticising and admiring
+with perfect frankness. The fly-drivers were killing, knew all the
+horses, and expressed themselves freely on the way they were handled.
+
+We drove through the Park, and then on to Richmond (not all the
+coaches), where we breakfasted at the "Star and Garter." The breakfast
+was good, and at dessert we had "Maids of Honour," the famous cakes that
+one always gets there. We walked about the Park a little after
+breakfast; it was delightful under the big trees, and then mounted our
+coach again and went back by Hurlingham to see a polo match. The road
+was crowded and driving very difficult, but D. is a capital whip, and I
+wasn't in the least nervous, though sometimes it did seem as if the bit
+of road they left us was rather narrow. However D. drove straight on
+without slackening--and they do make way for a coach. I think it is a
+sort of national pride in a fine team.
+
+Hurlingham is very pretty and there were quantities of people there. We
+saw very well from the top of the coach, and I must say the game was
+beautifully played. Of course the men all rode perfectly, but the ponies
+were so clever, quite as keen as the riders, and seemed to know all
+about it. We got back to the Embassy about 8, and happily had no one to
+dinner, but sat on the balcony all the evening, W. smoking, and talking
+about his conference, which is not going smoothly. The English are
+stiff, and the people at home unreasonable. I can't imagine how French
+and English can ever work together--they are so absolutely unlike.
+
+    #London#, July, 1884.
+
+W. went to Paris this morning and H. and I are left to our own devices.
+I dined alone at the Speaker's and it was pleasant. After dinner we went
+down to the terrace and walked and sat about. It was so warm that we all
+sat there with bare arms and necks. It was so pretty; boats passing on
+the river, all the bridges lighted, and so cool and dark on the terrace
+that one could hardly recognise the people as they walked up and down. I
+went back to the Embassy to get H., and we went to Devonshire House,
+where there was a big reception--all the world there, and the house very
+handsome, a fine staircase; Lord Hartington receiving us, as the Duke is
+an old man and couldn't stand the fatigue.
+
+[Illustration: M and Mme Waddington and Their Son
+
+From a photograph by Cesar Paris]
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    February 9, 1885.
+
+This morning we have the news of the fall of Khartoum and the murder of
+Gordon. W. is in the country trying horses, so I put on my hat and went
+out into the Row to hear what was going on. It was crowded with people
+talking and gesticulating. The Conservatives furious, "such a ministry a
+disgrace to the country," and a tall man on a handsome chestnut, talking
+to Admiral C. most energetically, "I am a moderate man myself, but I
+would willingly give a hand to hang Gladstone on this tree." They are
+much disgusted--and with reason.
+
+    Monday, February 23, 1885.
+
+It seems to be my week, Dear Gertrude, so I will at any rate begin this
+morning. We are now in full tide of dinners and routs, which last is the
+most frightful species of entertainment that the human mind has ever
+devised. They consist of 400 or 500 people packed close in a house which
+holds about 150--so warm in the rooms that you almost stifle--and so
+cold on the staircase and halls where the door is always open wide that
+I always wonder how I can escape without a fluxion de poitrine. We had a
+banquet ourselves last Tuesday, Harcourts Muensters, Corks, etc.,
+followed by a mild dance, which was however successful, as Pourtales,
+who is a gay little fellow, led a spirited cotillon, and there were 22
+couples. I performed 2 quadrilles, which, naturally, is the extent of my
+dancing now, unless I take a stray turn with an old partner.
+
+Of course the great excitement has been the departure of the Guards for
+Egypt, as it takes the husbands, sons, and brothers of half London away.
+It does seem such a useless campaign and sacrifice of human life.
+
+There was a child's party at Marlborough House on Friday afternoon which
+was very successful. Mimi and I were bidden, or _commanded_, as the
+correct phrase is, at 4 o'clock, so we took ourselves off, he in his
+white sailor suit, with blue collar, and I in blue velvet. Both Prince
+and Princess were very amiable, and the Duchess of Edinburgh was very
+good to Mimi, as she always is, making him sit by her daughters to see
+the conjuror, and at her table for tea. The children had their tea in
+the dining-room, with a great many little round tables, we had ours with
+the Princess. It is very informal, she always makes it herself, and
+everyone sits down. The Princess Louise was also there, looking very
+nice, and such a pretty figure. After the tea the children had a fine
+romp, ending with a most animated Sir Roger de Coverley, in which all
+the Princes--I mean the 2 younger ones, Prince Eddy and Prince
+George--joined, and all the Aides-de-Camp. We didn't leave till 7--and
+the afternoon was rather long, but still I must say I enjoyed myself.
+
+Yesterday we had a pleasant dinner at Lady Hayter's--a Liberal political
+salon. She has big dinners--receptions every Saturday. It was pleasant
+at first, until many more people came than the house would hold, but
+that is what the "Maitresse de Maison" particularly aims at.
+
+Everyone here sympathises with Lowell on the death of his wife. She was
+so very peculiar. I wrote him a little note, as he was always very
+amiable to me and complimentary about Father and Grandpa. This evening
+we had a dinner at Julia, Lady Tweeddale's, who is chaperoning her
+niece, Sir Robert Peel's daughter.
+
+    Tuesday.
+
+I couldn't finish last evening, so take up my letter now at 7 o'clock,
+while I am waiting to dress for dinner. It is a quiet dinner at the Miss
+Monks'--two cousins, maiden ladies--and I shall wear a high dress, which
+is much easier to get into. Our dinner last night was pleasant and
+swell--Duke and Duchess of Leeds, Lord and Lady Delawarr, Lord and Lady
+Claud Hamilton (she a beauty, with a fine figure; he an attractive
+Irishman, son of the Duke of Abercorn) and others. They danced
+afterwards, and we stayed till 12 o'clock. The pose of the fast young
+married set is not to dance. There is no one to dance with, the Guards
+are gone. The Row was lovely this morning, like a May day, everybody
+out. I hope to begin to ride again next week. I am in treaty for a very
+handsome chestnut, if the man will come down a little in his price.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    February 25, 1885.
+
+We have been to-day to the House of Lords to hear Lord Salisbury speak
+and the vote of censure passed. The House was full--the Prince and Duke
+of Cambridge there. Lord Salisbury spoke well; very calm, very nasty for
+his adversaries, and as he had the beau role he was much applauded. The
+defence was weak, the orator feeling evidently that his cause was a bad
+one, and the temper of the House against him. I should think Lord
+Salisbury would be a most unpleasant adversary, though always perfectly
+courteous in manner.
+
+
+    _To J. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France a Londres#,
+    Monday, March 9, 1885.
+
+This is my week again, Dear Jan, and I will begin to-day.
+
+We are going on in a wildly dissipated manner. Last week was very full.
+We went to a very pretty ball given by the Artillery Company of London
+to the Prince and Princess. The Duke of Portland, a young fellow, is
+colonel of the regiment, and the thing was very well done. Both Prince
+and Princess danced several times. The supper was very pretty. When it
+was ready everybody made a line all down the ballroom, and then the
+procession, with the Princess first and the Duke of Portland, then the
+Prince with me and various other Princes and swells, walked down the
+long room, the band playing the "British Grenadiers," and all the people
+bowing and curtseying. The Royal party supped on a platform and there
+were 1,000 people seated at supper at long narrow tables, everyone
+looking hard at the Princess.
+
+    Thursday, 12th.
+
+I never got any further and never have had time since, but I will begin
+this morning and finish my letter this evening. To-day is the first
+Drawing-room of the season. As Countess Karolyi doesn't come, I am the
+Doyenne, and shall have to go in first, led by Sir Francis Seymour. Mr.
+Lowell has asked me to take his presentation. However there is only
+Bessie V. R., Eugene's daughter, who is pleased at being presented by an
+Ambassadress. She will also see the Diplomatic Corps pass. I wish Jess
+were here, and so does Adelaide, who would be so delighted to dress her.
+Last night we had a very pleasant dinner at Lady Jersey's. Such a
+handsome woman was there, the young Duchess of Montrose. After dinner we
+went to the Speaker's reception, which was crowded, but rather
+amusing--such funny looking people and such dresses.
+
+I am overrun with artists. There are several French artists of all kinds
+here, and I must make them play once, so I have decided upon next Friday
+afternoon. It is my day and I shall invite all the musical and
+entertaining people I know, as of course they all wish to be heard. One
+girl really does play very well on the violin, and wants me very much to
+sing with her accompaniment, which, naturally, I shan't, and another
+sings, not very remarkably, and a third, Marie Dubois, plays really
+beautifully--premier prix du Conservatoire. I will write you all about
+it when it is over.
+
+    7 o'clock.
+
+Well, we have performed the Drawing-room--it was short, not more than an
+hour and a quarter, and I must say very few pretty faces or pretty
+dresses--Bessie V. R. looked very well, very distinguished. She followed
+directly behind me--even in front of my secretaries' wives, and was the
+third lady in the room. There were quite a lot of Princes--Prince and
+Princess of Wales, Prince Waldemar of Denmark, Duke and Duchess of
+Edinburgh, Duke of Cambridge and Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar. Mme. de
+Bylandt, wife of the Dutch Minister, presented Mme. and Mlle. de Brenen,
+Dutch ladies, both mother and daughter handsome and well dressed. The
+Princess looked charming in white and gold. The Duchess of Edinburgh had
+a dark green velvet train. We all came back here to tea and had various
+visitors to look at the dresses, including Baron Pawel-Rammingen,
+husband of Princess Frederica of Hanover, who also happened in and was
+much amused at finding such an etalage of trains--happily we have
+nothing this evening. Next week is the marriage of the Duke of B.'s
+daughter. It is to be at Westminster Abbey and very swell, the Prince
+and Princess going. There is to be a party Tuesday night, where all her
+jewels are to be shown, which they say are splendid. I am sorry not to
+go, but we have a dinner and a dance ourselves. I shall go to the
+wedding. She is small and quiet--rather shy. I don't know whether one of
+those mysterious changes will take place which one sees sometimes after
+marriage--coronets and trains do a great deal. I must finish, as I have
+of course several notes to answer. I hate it so, when people wait for
+answers. I suppose I shall have a fine account of the Inauguration from
+Gertrude. I hope the girls have enjoyed it.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #London#,
+    March 12, 1885.
+
+I went yesterday to say good-bye to Lady R. They are leaving for Bombay,
+where he is named Governor. It is for five years; I think I should be
+unwilling to go so far, and to such a trying climate, but she seems
+plucky enough and will certainly do well.
+
+Francis and I were driving up Constitution Hill yesterday just as the
+Queen arrived, so we had a very good look at her. She was in an open
+carriage with Princess Beatrice and her fiance, Prince Henry of
+Battenberg (such a handsome man), and the usual escort of Life-Guards.
+She recognised me perfectly, and always has a gracious bow and smile.
+Just before she came one of our English friends who was walking about
+with her daughter (a young girl who had never seen the Queen) suddenly
+spied me (as mine was the only carriage that was allowed to stand) and
+asked me if she and her daughter could get into the carriage with me, as
+that would be such a good chance for the girl to see the Queen. I of
+course was delighted to have them, as Francis and I were alone, and the
+girl saw perfectly. So many English people, except those who go to
+Drawing-Rooms, never get a chance to see the Queen at all.
+
+    Sunday, March.
+
+We have been to Church this morning at Westminster Abbey, such a
+magnificent service. The Dean always gives us seats, and I love the
+music, the boys sing very well, and the hymns are grand as they echo
+through the fine old church. In every direction there is some historical
+souvenir; tombs, old glass windows, tattered flags, crests,--all
+England's past. We walked home through Green Park, and it is curious to
+notice the absence of equipages--so many English people don't take out
+their carriages on Sunday (to rest the horses and let the servants go to
+church), again such a striking contrast to Paris, where every kind of
+conveyance is out on that day. I think of the little grocer near H. who
+goes out every Sunday as soon as it is at all warm with his whole family
+and 2 or 3 dogs in his little covered cart. All the "Societe" is out
+also; at the big concerts, reviews, races, etc. Sunday is the great
+Parisian holiday.
+
+This morning before starting I had my head out of the window on the
+other side of the Embassy, looking at the Guards pass on their way to
+the little church just behind the Embassy in Knightsbridge. They came
+down from the barracks at a swinging pace, a fine body of men, the
+sergeants with their canes, and several officers. The band, a very good
+one, plays all the time (to-day they marched to the French tune "Le Pere
+Victoire"), and takes up its station, always playing, at the door of the
+church. They play until the last man files in, then suddenly the music
+stops, and the band goes in also. It always interests the French
+servants immensely, the two maids had their heads out too, and said to
+me just now, "C'est bien beau, Madame, quel dommage que cela ne se passe
+pas comme cela chez nous." The service in the Guards' Chapel at
+Wellington Barracks is also a fine one, the chapel filled with soldiers,
+a mass of red (as one sees only their tunics), and the singing very
+good--a little loud sometimes when it is a favourite hymn and all join
+in.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    March 13, 1885.
+
+We have had our second "Drawing-room" to-day, and were asked to come in
+"demi-deuil," as it was the first time the Queen had received any of the
+Corps Diplomatique since the Duke of Albany's death. There are always
+more people when the Queen holds the Drawing-room, as it is the only
+chance so many of her subjects ever have of seeing her. She rarely comes
+to London, and stays only two or three days. She was dressed with her
+little closed diamond crown, the blue ribbon of the Garter, and many
+diamonds. I thought the black becoming generally.
+
+    March 16th.
+
+At our dinner to-day at Lord A.'s Mr. Campbell was next to me, and told
+me he was most anxious to be recalled to the French Ambassador, that he
+had been his fag at Rugby, and had never seen him since. Of course they
+made acquaintance again after dinner, and plunged into all sorts of
+recollections of their school days. The other men who were smoking with
+them said the talk was most interesting and curious, as their careers in
+after life had been so very different. At every turn W. finds someone
+who had been at Rugby or Cambridge with him.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    April 9, 1885.
+
+This morning it is pouring, so I gave up the Oxford and Cambridge boat
+race. W. and Count de Florian started all with light blue rosettes
+(Cambridge). W. was on the umpire boat. Cambridge won easily, which was
+of course a great pleasure to him (having rowed himself so many years
+ago in the Cambridge crew), in the evening. He said he was so much
+cheered when he got up to speak--young men standing on chairs to see
+him--that he had to wait some time before he could begin. He is
+certainly the only foreign Ambassador that ever rowed in the Cambridge
+eight. He was quite pleased when he came home, so many old memories of
+happy boyish days had been brought back. We talked for some time after
+dinner, and recalled all sorts of Cambridge experiences--once when the
+Queen came with Prince Albert to Cambridge the students were all
+assembled in the court-yard as her carriage drove up. It had been
+raining, and the Queen hesitated a moment in getting out, as the ground
+was wet and there was mud. Instantly W. had his gown off and on the
+ground, the others followed his example, and she walked over a carpet of
+silk gowns the few steps she had to make. W. said he had never forgotten
+her smile as she bowed and thanked them.
+
+
+    _To J. K._
+
+    #The Garth, Bicester#,
+    Sunday, April 19, 1885.
+
+I believe this is my week, Dear Jan. I am staying here at a queer little
+hunting box in Oxfordshire with Hilda Deichmann (nee de Bunsen). It is
+literally an enormous stable, with a cottage attached, but they have
+added a story and wings and it is the most wonderful-looking place, very
+low--but comfortable. W. went off to Paris Sunday, and I came down here
+last Saturday with Mimi. He is very fond of the children--a big boy of
+11 and a girl of 7--and has enjoyed himself thoroughly. We feel awfully
+cut up at Pontecoulant's death. He has been such a good friend to us,
+and so completely associated with all our political life. It seems
+incredible that a strong man should be carried off like that in 4 days
+from a cold. Henrietta will miss him awfully, as, now that we are so
+much away he was always there and attending to anything she wanted done.
+
+Of course everyone is talking and speculating about the Anglo-Russian
+question. W. thinks the English must fight, and that they will. I think
+this government, with Gladstone at its head, will never make up their
+minds to fight seriously or in time, judging from the way the Soudan
+campaign has been conducted.
+
+We have been driving all over the country, which is charming, flat, but
+all grass (Oxfordshire is a regular hunting country), and since three
+days the weather has been enchanting. Yesterday we made a lovely
+excursion to Blenheim on Deichmann's coach. We picked up 2 neighbours,
+nice, pretty English girls, and had a beautiful drive over the downs.
+Mimi had never been on a coach before, and was in a wild state of
+delight when all four horses galloped up the hills, and they blew the
+horns at all the railway stations and passing thro' the villages. I had
+forgotten how magnificent Blenheim was. The house is rather dismantled,
+as the present Duke has sold all the books and some of the handsomest
+pictures, but there are plenty left--Van Dycks, Rubens, etc., and the
+rooms and halls are splendid. There were lots of portraits of the Dukes
+and Duchesses, from the great Duke down, some curiously like the present
+Churchills, particularly the women. When we had finished sauntering
+through the house, we drove about the park looking for a shady place to
+lunch, and then established ourselves; the horses were taken out, the
+lunch basket opened, and we had a very good lunch on the top of the
+coach. We drove back through Woodstock and stopped for tea at Dashwood
+Park, one of the great places of the country. They gave us tea, with
+every variety of toast, cake, and bread that can be imagined, in a
+beautiful room as large as a church, opening on a stone terrace, and the
+most lovely (English) views of grass meadows and trees, stretching miles
+away. There were quantities of family portraits there, too, but we
+hadn't time to see them. We got home at 7 o'clock, rather exhausted, but
+having had a lovely day.
+
+I began my letter this morning before breakfast and will finish it now.
+The children are off to the woods with the German tutor after primroses,
+but it is too warm for us--so we shall take a walk after tea. I am very
+fond of Hilda Deichmann. She is very clever--knows a great many
+things--draws well, paints well, is a good musician, and is womanly and
+practical. We fraternised from the first moment. We are going back to
+London to-morrow afternoon. Mimi's school begins on Tuesday, and I think
+he has had a good outing for the present. I haven't an idea what we
+shall do this winter. Perhaps when W. comes back he will have some
+plans. With this new Ministry, it is difficult to make any. I am so
+afraid of their proposing some beastly measure, like the exile of the
+Orleans Princes, or something of that kind to be popular before the
+election. The Wales' visit to Ireland seems to be progressing most
+delightfully and much more quietly than people thought. He has such
+wonderful charm of manner. I should think personal contact with him
+would always work wonders. I must stop now or my letter will not go this
+afternoon.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    May 6, 1885.
+
+We had yesterday a typical London _Season_ evening. We dined at Lady
+Vivian's--a large, handsome dinner, everybody rather in a hurry to get
+away, as there were two big parties; Lady Derby's in St. James's Place,
+and Lady Salisbury's in Arlington Street. We drove down Piccadilly with
+much difficulty, getting along very slowly in spite of our "white card,"
+but finally did arrive at Lady Derby's. The staircase was a mass of
+people struggling to get in, an orchestra playing, and about 1,200
+people in rooms that would hold comfortably about half. Of course on
+such occasions one doesn't talk. We spoke to our host and hostess, were
+carried on by the crowd, made the tour of the rooms and got down again
+with much waiting and jostling, as there were two currents coming and
+going. However, we did finally get our carriage, and then with many
+stops and very slowly, got to Arlington Street, where apparently the
+same people were struggling on the staircase, the same orchestra
+playing, and just as big a crowd (I should think the whole Conservative
+party), for though the house is larger they had invited more people, so
+the result was practically the same. We did exactly the same thing,
+exchanged a few words with Lady Salisbury, made the tour, and came home.
+We were two hours performing these two receptions, but I suppose it was
+right to do it once. However, the English certainly enjoy the sight, and
+don't mind the waiting. Lady Jersey, who is a grandmother, told me this
+afternoon she had bored herself to death last night. "Why did you go?" I
+said, "you must know these big political parties by heart." "Oh, I like
+the parties," she said; "only I didn't get to either," and then she
+explained her evening. She started alone in her carriage at 10 o'clock
+for Lady Derby's, was kept waiting an interminable time in Piccadilly,
+and when she finally did reach Lady Derby's door, a friendly link-man
+advised her not to go in as everybody was coming away, and she would
+never get up the stairs, so she turned back and proceeded to Arlington
+Street. She had the same crowd, the same long wait, and when she arrived
+at Lady Salisbury's the party was over, and no one could possibly get
+in. It was then midnight, and she drove home, having passed her whole
+evening since 10 o'clock alone in her brougham in Piccadilly.
+
+[Illustration: The Salon of the French Embassy in London, 1891]
+
+    May 9, 1885.
+
+This afternoon we have had a conference "sur Racine" in the big
+drawing-room. A good many people came and apparently listened, and I
+hope it may do the young lady good. Mlle. de B. wishes to get up classes
+of French literature for ladies, but I hardly think it will succeed here
+in the season; on a bright day no one will shut herself up in a smallish
+room to hear about Racine, Moliere, etc. I was amused by one of our
+colleagues whom I invited. He refused promptly, "he really couldn't do
+that even for me. He hadn't thought about Racine since he left school,
+and hadn't felt it a blank in his life." Mlle. de B. did it very well;
+she sat on a little platform with a table in front of her, and all the
+swells in red and gilt arm-chairs facing her, and looking at her hard.
+She was a little nervous at first, but soon got over that, and her
+language was good and well chosen, she knew her subject perfectly, and
+spoke in a pretty clear voice. This was the invitation:--
+
+    MADAME WADDINGTON
+
+    SERA CHEZ ELLE
+
+    le Samedi, 9 Mai, 2 a 4 heures,
+
+    _Mlle. de Bury lira une etude de critique litteraire sur Racine, son
+    milieu, et sa tragedie de Berenice._
+
+Do you think it would have tempted you? I am afraid Schuyler wouldn't
+have come.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    May, 1885.
+
+We are having most beautiful weather, Dear, and our morning rides are
+delightful. If only the Park was a little bigger. We always get a good
+gallop on the other side by the Marble Arch, but it is small, and one
+goes round and round. When I ride with W. we generally make three or
+four turns as fast as we can go, he hates to dawdle. When I ride with
+the military attache, or some other friends, we do the Row, and amble up
+and down, talking to the people walking as well as the riders. The
+children always delight in scampering along on their ponies, and they
+certainly begin young. A friend of ours, who has a nice sturdy boy of
+about six, was wondering whether he should begin with his child on a
+narrow pony, thinking he was still rather young, so he consulted Lady
+P., a beautiful rider, and an authority on all matters connected with
+riding. "You mustn't begin too early with boys," she said; "one must be
+careful; I never put any boy of mine on a horse until he was two years
+old."
+
+    May 13th.
+
+To-day we have had a very long Drawing-room held by the Queen, which of
+course attracts everyone. She rarely stays more than an hour, just long
+enough to receive the Corps Diplomatique and the people who have the
+entree. The Queen looked very well, merely shook hands with me, but
+talked some little time to W., said she had enjoyed her stay at
+Aix-les-Bains so much, and that everything had been done to make her
+comfortable. I watched her while she was talking and I never saw a smile
+make such a difference in a face. Hers is quite beautiful and lights up
+her whole face. It was tiring to-day--unending. Lord R. told me there
+were 400 presentations, and at the end said about 1,200 people had
+passed. They say the Queen is sometimes made sick by the quantity of
+people curtseying before her--the constant movement of the people
+bending down and rising has the same effect upon her as the waters of
+the sea. I can understand it.
+
+The long Drawing-room to-day was a god-send to Lady A.,--one of Lord
+C.'s daughters. She is a "debutante," had a very pretty new dress, and
+was much excited over her presentation, had started very early with her
+mother so as to see the Queen (who stays only a short hour). The early
+start and the long waiting in the row of carriages and also the
+ante-room, exhausted her absolutely. She was sick and faint; they did
+all they could, brought her brandy, put her near an open window--nothing
+did any good. She had to retire from the room, go downstairs, have her
+dress cut open (there was a knot in the lace and they couldn't unlace
+her bodice), and remained extended on a sofa in the hall--train, veil,
+feathers, all in a heap. After a rest of two hours, and a cup of tea
+(procured with great difficulty, as there is no buffet on these
+occasions) she felt better, and her mother hearing from a friend
+upstairs, who was "de service," that the Drawing-room was still going
+on, was most anxious that the girl should pass, so they arranged her
+veil, hair, and feathers as well as they could, tied the bodice of her
+dress, and filled in the intervals with some bits of tulle cut from her
+veil. She passed, and I don't believe anyone noticed anything wrong with
+her dress, and she was so thankful not to have to go through that long
+waiting again. It is a most fatiguing day for those who haven't the
+entree, as they must sit so long in their carriages in the file.
+
+    #Hatfield#, May 30th.
+
+We came down yesterday to this most beautiful old place. A large
+Elizabethan castle, standing rather high, with courts and terraces in
+every direction. We found Lady Salisbury at her tea-table on the terrace
+with a lovely view of park and woods on all sides. Various members of
+the family and house-party sauntered up, some of the young ladies in
+their habits, having been riding; and some guests having walked up from
+the station, which is quite near at the end of the Park. After an hour's
+talk Lady Salisbury took me to my room (miles away through the long hall
+and up a great staircase), and told me dinner was "easy 8." The room is
+large, all panelled in oak which has become almost black with age, an
+enormous bed (they have always had their sheets made especially for
+these beds for more than 200 years, in Germany I think, as no ordinary
+sheets could cover more than half). The beds are very long and almost
+square. They would easily hold Brigham Young and all his wives. Do you
+remember the picture in Mark Twain? Mine was so high I had to take a
+footstool to clamber into it. W.'s room, next, about the same. We went
+downstairs at 8.10 and certainly didn't dine until after 8-1/2. We were
+about 30 in the great dining-room, a splendid hall with portraits of
+Queen Elizabeth (one in fancy dress, most curious with bright red hair),
+Henry VIII, Mary Queen of Scots, etc. We played cards in the evening and
+broke up rather early. This morning Lady Salisbury showed me the
+house--most interesting, full of treasures and memories, a great library
+with all sorts of letters from the time of Elizabeth, and in the
+drawing-room a vitrine filled with relics of the "Virgin Queen." It was
+curious to see her gloves, shoes, hat. I think Lady Salisbury was
+somewhat surprised at my interest in these last things, but I told her
+she must make allowances for the American, who was not accustomed to old
+family traditions and souvenirs of that kind. When I think of our
+Revolution, then it seems ages ago to me. We enjoyed our visit
+extremely, they are all so nice and simple.
+
+We got back to London this morning and of course dined out somewhere. I
+was amused by one of the ladies saying to me after dinner, "Did you
+really enjoy your visit to Hatfield? Aren't they all _dreadfully_
+clever?" I don't think I should have applied the same adverb, but clever
+they certainly are. Lord Salisbury has such a fine, thoughtful face.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    June, 1885.
+
+We went to Ascot this morning, a beautiful day, and the lawn like a
+flower garden with all the women in their light dresses dotted about. We
+lunched with the Prince and Princess of Wales. The Maharajah of Johore
+was there, and had brought down his own cook, attired in yellow satin
+with a large flat hat on his head. He made a sort of curry for his
+master, which everybody tasted--except me--I don't like culinary
+experiments, and I think the yellow satin garments didn't inspire me
+with confidence. I told Juteau when he came up for orders just now how
+far below the mark he was as to costume.
+
+    June 29th.
+
+I went this afternoon with Francis to Lord Aberdeen's, where they had a
+hay-making party. They have a pretty little cottage, or rather a small
+farm about an hour's drive from London. There were plenty of people, and
+all sorts of amusements for the children; Punch and Judy, lawn-tennis,
+and two tea-tables on the lawn. After tea they all rushed down a steep
+hill to a field where there were quantities of little heaps of hay, and
+harmless wooden pitchforks. They had a fine time rolling and tumbling
+about in the hay and making hay-stacks. Then a cow appeared on the
+scene, dressed with flowers and ribbons, and the maids made syllabub on
+the spot, which the children enjoyed immensely.
+
+[Illustration: Lady Salisbury]
+
+    June 30th, 1885.
+
+We dined at Lady Molesworth's with the Duc d'Aumale, who is always
+charming, and makes everything easy, as there are always bothering
+little questions of official etiquette with non-reigning Princes. He is
+a fine type of the soldier-prince. It seems hard that a man of his
+intelligence and education shouldn't play a great part in his own
+country.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    July, 1885.
+
+We had the Court concert this evening. The Duc d'Aumale was there,
+looking so well and so royal. He is always charming to us, and we were
+very proud of our French Prince. H. came with us and enjoyed herself
+extremely. The entrance of the Court amused her very much, the two tall
+Chamberlains with their wands walking backwards. She says she never saw
+anything so pretty as the curtsey the Princess of Wales made to the
+assembled company as soon as she got into the room. What always appeals
+in some sort of way to our _irreverent_ American minds is the singing of
+the "God Save the Queen," all the company, including Prince and
+Princess, rising and standing.
+
+
+    _To J. K._
+
+    #Chevening, Sevenoaks#,
+    Sunday, July 27, 1885.
+
+I will begin my letter here to-day, Dear Jan, from the Stanhopes' place,
+where we came last evening to spend Sunday. It was awfully hot
+yesterday. I almost died on the way from London down, fortunately it was
+only an hour. We are a party of 14--Lord and Lady John Manners, Lord
+Derby and his step-daughter, Lady Margaret Cecil, Mr. and Mrs. Edward
+Stanhope, Mr. and Mrs. Jeune, Lord Boston, a nice young fellow, and a
+Mr. Praed, a riding man, who has travelled everywhere. We had tea on the
+terrace overlooking a lovely garden and lake, and dined at 8. After
+dinner we sat on the terrace, and it was charming, a beautiful full
+moon, and not a breath of air. Friday we had the closing festivity of
+the season at Marlborough House. A beautiful ball it was, about 600
+people, all the creme de la societe and beautiful dresses and jewels. I
+wore my pink and green Moscow dress (my Russian garments have done me
+good service this year), and it was much admired. All the Battenberg
+family were there in great force, and I renewed acquaintance with the
+Prince of Bulgaria, whom I used to know. They had covered in a great
+part of the garden, and the room was beautifully arranged with the
+Prince's Indian carpets and arms. The supper room, also built out in the
+garden, was so pretty--a collection of small round tables for 8 or 10
+persons, with flowers and handsome silver. Prince Albert Victor took me
+in, and I had a young Battenberg next. Neither Phelps nor Harry White
+was there, on account of Grant's death, which I thought very nice of
+them. I danced once or twice after supper, and we came away at 2. I hear
+they kept it up until 5, having begun at 11. There is a reception at
+Lady Salisbury's on Tuesday, which will be really the end of all things,
+and purely political, as all the swells go off to Goodwood Monday.
+
+    11.30.
+
+We have just come upstairs after a very hot day. I didn't go to church,
+as I knew I could not stand the heat, and talked a little and read very
+happily in the big drawing-room till luncheon. Lady Stanhope took me
+over the house, which is not very large, but interesting. There is a
+charming library full of books and manuscripts and letters, some from
+Lord Chesterfield to his son, written in French, and beginning "Mon cher
+ami, comment vont les graces et les manieres." After luncheon, we sat
+out under the lime trees, and after tea I made a little tournee with
+Lord Stanhope and prowled about the park, and went also to the church,
+where there are several interesting monuments. This evening we have been
+sitting again on the terrace, quite delicious. I in my white dress, with
+nothing on my shoulders.
+
+    #London#,
+    Tuesday, 28th.
+
+We got back yesterday at 2 o'clock and the weather has changed to-day.
+It was very hot all day yesterday. I spent the afternoon on my sofa
+until 6.30, when we went for a ride and met the few last people who are
+still here. Last night we discussed our summer plans, and I shall go
+over to France on Saturday with Francis, stay three or four days in
+Paris, and then go down to St. Leger. It is curious how London is
+suddenly empty. There were not 5 carriages in the park yesterday. This
+morning I have been careering about the stable-yard trying a new habit.
+They are so difficult to make in these days, so tight that the least
+change of saddle makes them go every way but the right one. I don't know
+if I wrote after the Harwoods lunched with us. W. was much pleased with
+them and found them a most attractive family. The girls are charming, so
+pretty and simple. I must stop, as Holmes (the English butler) is
+waiting for me to tell him all sorts of final arrangements before we
+start.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    November 9, 1885.
+
+The young King of Spain is dead. The Ambassador, M. de Casa La Iglesia,
+was to have dined with us. He sent a note at 5.30 saying that he must
+give up the pleasure of dining with us for a "bien penible raison," but
+without saying what it was--so one of the secretaries went off "aux
+informations" and came back with the news that the King was dead. Poor
+young fellow, his reign was short.
+
+    December 5th.
+
+We had a service at the Spanish chapel in Manchester Square for the King
+of Spain. All the Diplomats and official world there. It was very
+long--all the ladies were in black--Comtesse Karolyi (Austrian
+Ambassadress) and Comtesse de Bylandt (wife of the Dutch Minister) in
+crepe, long veils. They told me I was not at all correct, that a crepe
+veil was "de rigueur" for crowned heads. I thought I was all right in
+black velvet, a tulle veil, and black gloves (in fact was rather pleased
+with my get-up), but the ladies were very stern.
+
+    #London#,
+    December 15, 1885.
+
+I wish you were here this morning, Dear, as the Embassy is a
+curiosity--might just as well be in Kamtchatka as far as the outside
+world is concerned--for nothing exists beyond the walls of the house.
+When they drew back my curtains this morning I couldn't really think for
+a moment where I was. Adelaide had a lighted candle in her hand (it was
+8.30 o'clock in the morning) and I thought my window panes had been
+painted a dirty yellow in the night. However it was only a yellow London
+fog; I could literally see nothing when I went to the window. It has
+lightened now a little, but we have had lamps for breakfast, and I am
+writing with my candles! The big shops opposite are all lighted, and one
+sees little glimmers of light through the fog. I can't see across the
+street. The fog gets into everything--was quite thick and perceptible in
+the hall when we went down to breakfast. The coachman has been in and
+said he couldn't take out his horses, not even with a link-boy running
+alongside, so let us hope it will brighten up a little in the course of
+the afternoon.
+
+    December 16th.
+
+The fog did lift about 4; but the day was trying and the traces most
+evident the next day, as everything in the house was filthy--all the
+silver candlesticks and little silver ornaments that are on the tables;
+the white curtains--in fact everything one touched. I should think
+laundresses would make their fortune in London. My maid came to my room
+about 3 o'clock, just as I was going out, with her apron really black
+with smuts. I said, "What in the world have you been doing, cleaning the
+chimneys?" "Non, Madame, je n'ai fait que travailler chez Madame et dans
+la lingerie; j'ai voulu montrer mon tablier a Madame, c'est le troisieme
+que je mets depuis ce matin...!"
+
+    December 17, 1885.
+
+Yesterday I made an excursion to the city with Hilda Deichmann and her
+husband to buy things for our Christmas trees. It was most amusing
+ransacking in all the big wholesale houses, and reminded me of my
+childish days and similar expeditions to Maiden Lane. There is so much
+always in England that recalls early days. I think it is not only the
+language, but the education and way of living are the same. We have read
+the same books and sung the same hymns, and understand things in the
+same way. Our shopping was most successful. All the prettiest things
+come from the German shops. The ginger-bread animals were
+wonderful,--some horses and dogs with gilt tails and ears most
+effective. The decorations were really very pretty--the stars and angels
+quite charming. When we had finished our shopping Deichmann took us to
+Pym's, a celebrated oyster cellar, to lunch. A funny little place well
+known to all City people. We had a capital lunch--all oysters.
+
+This afternoon we have been playing, 8 hands, two pianos, which was
+interesting. Two of our colleagues, Princess Ghika, Roumanian Legation,
+and Countess de Bylandt, Dutch, are excellent musicians. They lead, and
+Hilda and I follow as well as we can. I am the least good, but I manage
+to get along, and of course whenever I know the music my ear helps me.
+We have two fine Erard grand pianos in the drawing-room, which is large,
+and fairly light for London. I was much tempted by a beautiful Steinway
+piano, but thought it right at the French Embassy to have Erards, which
+are of course fine instruments. I fancy Steinway is more brilliant, but
+I think we make noise enough, particularly when we are playing
+Wagner--the _Kaiser March_ for instance.
+
+    December 23d.
+
+It was not very cold this morning, so I tried the new horse, and he went
+very well. I have had a thick hunting habit made, and was quite
+comfortable, except the hands, which were cold at starting. I fussed all
+day over the Christmas tree which we are to have on the 26th, and this
+evening we had a small farewell dinner for Nigra, the Italian
+Ambassador, who is going away to Vienna. I am very sorry, as he is a
+good colleague and an easy and charming talker. He sat a long time with
+me the other day talking over his Paris experiences and the brilliant
+days of the Empire--Tuileries, Compiegne, etc. It was most interesting
+and new to me, as I only know Paris since the war (1870) and have never
+seen either Emperor or Empress. I suppose I never shall see her, as she
+never comes to London, and lives a very secluded life at Farnborough
+with a small household, and some Paris friends who come sometimes, not
+very often, to see her. What a tragic "fin de vie" hers is, having had
+everything and lost everything. We had also the Russian and Spanish
+Ambassadors--Staal charming, clever, easy, simple--"simpatico," the only
+word I know in any language which expresses exactly that combination of
+qualities. Casa La Iglesia, the Spaniard, is a tall, handsome,
+attractive-looking man. He made havoc in the various posts he has
+occupied, and when we want to tease him we ask him about his departure
+from Berlin, and all the "femmes affolees" who were at the station to
+see the last of him. Henrietta and Anne have arrived for Christmas,
+laden of course with presents and souvenirs for everybody, and Francis
+is quite happy with his aunts.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Albert Gate, London#,
+    December 24, 1885.
+
+The sisters and I have been shopping all day getting the last things for
+the tree, which is to be on the 26th. The streets are most animated,
+full of people, all carrying parcels, and all with smiling faces. The
+big toy-shops and confectioners crowded. "Buzzard," the great shop in
+Oxford Street, most amusing; hundreds of Christmas cakes of all sizes.
+There are plum cakes frosted with sugar icing, the date generally in red
+letters and a sprig of ivy or evergreen stuck in at the top. We had
+ordered a large one, and they were much pleased to do it for the French
+Embassy, and wanted to make the letters in "tri-color," red, white, and
+blue. We wound up at the Army and Navy Stores, and really had some
+difficulty in getting in. They had quantities of Christmas trees already
+decorated, which were being sold as fast as they were brought in.
+
+There were splendid turkeys, enormous; and curiously enough they told us
+many of them came from France, from a well-known turkey farm in the
+Loiret. I must ask the Segurs, who live in that part of the country, if
+they know the place. There were quantities of plum-puddings of all sizes
+and prices, and it must be a very poor household that doesn't have its
+plum-pudding to-morrow. We were glad to get back to tea and hot buttered
+toast--a thoroughly English institution. I would like some of my French
+servants to learn how to make it, but I don't suppose they will. In fact
+I don't know exactly who makes it here--I am quite sure neither Juteau
+nor his "garcon de cuisine" would condescend to do anything so simple. I
+suppose it isn't the "odd man" who seems to do all the things that no
+one else will, but I sha'n't inquire as long as it appears.
+
+We had a quiet evening--talked a little politics while W. was smoking.
+Henrietta always sees a great many people of all kinds, and tells him
+various little things that don't come to him in his official despatches.
+The house is comfortable enough, though there is no calorifere, and it
+is a corner house. There are enormous coal fires everywhere, except in
+my bedroom and dressing-room, where I always burn wood--and such
+wood--little square pieces like children's blocks.
+
+    Christmas Day.
+
+It was dark and foggy this morning, we could hardly see the trees
+opposite, and the lamps are lighted in the house and the streets.
+Francis was enchanted with his presents. I think the billiard-table from
+Paris and the big boat ("aussi grand que Monsieur Toutain"--one of our
+Secretaries) were what pleased him most. There is a sort of sailing
+match every Sunday morning on the Serpentine. Some really beautiful
+boats (models) full-rigged, and it is a pretty sight to see them all
+start a miniature yacht race across the river. Francis always goes with
+Clarisse, and Yves, his own little Breton footman, carries his boat,
+which is much bigger than he is, also Boniface, a wise little
+fox-terrier who knows all about it, and gallops around the top of the
+lake to meet his master's boat on the other side. They have also one of
+the Park keepers and a gigantic policeman, who is always on duty at
+Albert Gate, to look after them. Not a useless precaution, as the boat
+often gets entangled in the reeds, and _has_ been known to go to the
+bottom of the lake, and Boniface always gets lost and is brought back by
+a policeman or a soldier, or a friend--Hilda Deichmann brought him back
+one day.
+
+We had a cheerful Christmas dinner--all our personnel--M. Blanchard de
+Forges, Consul General, and Villiers, the correspondent of the "Debats"
+in London. We did a little music after dinner. I tried for some
+Christmas carols "We Three Kings of Orient Are" (do you remember that at
+Oyster Bay? how long ago it seems), but the English-speaking element was
+not strong enough. We danced a little, winding up with a sort of Scotch
+reel--Henrietta, Waru (our Military Attache), and Petiteville being the
+chief performers.
+
+    December 26th.
+
+We are all rather exhausted after the Christmas tree; however, the
+children were quite pleased, and the tree really very pretty. A gigantic
+pine, reaching to the top of the ceiling in the ballroom, a star on the
+top and very well lighted. We had 34 children of all ages and
+nationalities, from Nadine Karolyi, aged 18, daughter of Count Karolyi,
+Austrian Ambassador and Doyen of the Corps Diplomatique, to Florence
+Williams' baby girl of 16 months. The little ones were sweet, speechless
+at first, with round eyes fixed on the tree, and then little fat arms
+stretched out for something. The children's tea-table looked pretty,
+arranged with coloured candles and holly, and an enormous Christmas cake
+in the middle with a wreath of holly around it. Nadine Karolyi cut the
+first slice of cake, as daughter of the Doyen she sat on Francis's right
+hand, and Thekla Staal, daughter of the Russian Ambassador, on his left.
+W. was much amused at the correct placing of the young ladies. We start
+to-morrow for Knowsley and Luton Hoo, and the packing is quite an
+affair. I take 10 dresses, besides jackets, hats, etc. I must have short
+costumes to follow the battues for fine and bad weather--a swell day
+dress, as we are to lunch at Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place near
+Knowsley; and two ball dresses, as there is to be a county ball for all
+the neighbourhood at Luton, New Year's night, and a small dance with a
+cotillon (which is unusual in England) the next night. Adelaide is
+rather fatigued, as besides my trunk she has to finish off her
+toilettes, and she has just come in to ask me if she shall take the
+regulation black silk, or a blue silk, which is more dressy; as they
+tell her the _ladies_ in the housekeeper's room are very dressy at
+Luton. I said the blue silk by all means--she must be up to the mark.
+The fog has kept up pretty well all day. I hope it will clear to-morrow,
+we are going straight into the coal country. Knowsley is near Liverpool,
+and I fancy it is always dark there.
+
+I was telling Nigra the other day about our first Roman Christmas and
+what an impression it made upon us. Such a splendid winter, always a
+bright blue sky, and roses straggling over all the old grey walls. The
+Pifferari singing to the Madonnas at all the street corners, the
+midnight Mass and mysterious Pastorale in St. Peter's at early dawn with
+the tapers trembling on the high altar so far away; and the grand
+Christmas ceremony at St. Peter's, with all the magnificent pomp of the
+Catholic Church in Rome. We talked on for some time about "Roma com'
+era," which of course he doesn't regret, and I told him of our last
+night in Rome, when we all went "en bande" to drink at the Fountain of
+Trevi (which is supposed to act as a charm and to bring people back to
+Rome). I remember quite well how tearful I was when we left. I didn't
+think then that life was worth living out of the shadow of St. Peter's,
+and think so a little still even now, though my lines have lain in very
+different places.
+
+We leave Francis in the sisters' charge, with the joys of a pantomime
+before him.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Knowsley#,
+    December 29, 1885.
+
+We arrived here late yesterday afternoon. It is a long, uninteresting
+journey (almost to Liverpool), was cold and foggy all the way down, and
+we found snow when we arrived in the Park--also a perfect gale of wind,
+the enormous bare, black winter trees swaying like poplars. The large
+house, with all the facade brightly lighted, gave us at once a cheerful
+welcome. Lady Derby was waiting for us in the long, low drawing-room
+with tea, and we went up almost immediately to dress for dinner. We had
+sent the servants by an earlier train, which was convenient, as they had
+time to unpack and have everything ready for us. We have a charming
+apartment--a very good-sized salon, with bedrooms large and comfortable
+on each side. The salon furnished in a bright chintz, and good pictures,
+mostly family portraits, on the walls. There were blazing fires
+everywhere--these enormous rocks of Liverpool coal one sees here. I
+instantly proceeded to demolish mine in my bedroom. Adelaide had already
+tried to make the housemaid understand that her lady didn't like warm
+rooms, but the other one pointed to the snow under the windows, and
+heaped on her pieces of coal.
+
+Dinner was at 8 _punctually_ (which was a contrast to Hatfield, where we
+had been staying the other day. There dinner was easily half past eight,
+and after we had been at table some little time various friends and
+members of the family appeared, and slid quietly into their places at
+the end of the very long table). There is a large family party here and
+some other guests, including the two historians, Froude and Lecky, both
+most interesting.
+
+[Illustration: Knowsley Hall
+
+The Earl of Derby's place at Prescot Lancashire]
+
+We dined in a fine hall with family portraits of all the Derbys, from
+the first one at Bosworth down to the present Earl, who is the 16th Earl
+of Derby. There was beautiful plate on the table--fine racing cups--as
+the Stanleys were always quite as much racing men as statesmen. These
+are such curious things in England, the love of sport is so strong.
+Fancy any of our statesmen, Thiers, Guizot, Dufaure, etc., with racing
+stables. Lord Derby is very easy and rather inclined to chaff Americans
+a little, but I didn't mind. The evening was short after we adjourned to
+the drawing-room. Lady Derby is rather delicate, and is suffering just
+now from a bad eye. I sat some time in my comfortable room upstairs, but
+was glad to get to bed early after the cold journey. W. went off to the
+fumoir, and had a most interesting talk over Ireland and Irish questions
+with Mr. Lecky. This morning was awful; snow, sleet, and a cold
+rain--however, the sportsmen were not to be deterred by any such mild
+obstacle, and started at 9.30 in a big break with four horses. I watched
+the departure from my window, and was very glad I was not going to make
+any such expedition. I had my breakfast upstairs, and had an amusing
+explanation with the housemaid who appeared at 9.30 with an enormous
+tray and breakfast enough for a family--tea, beefsteaks, cold
+partridges, eggs, rolls, toast, potatoes, buns and fruit--you never saw
+such a meal. She couldn't believe that I only wanted tea and toast and
+an egg (which was an extra, but as I knew we should only lunch at two,
+and I am accustomed to have my dejeuner a la fourchette at 12, I was
+sure I should be hungry if I didn't take something), and asked me most
+respectfully if I was not well, and would like something else--"a little
+soup perhaps."
+
+I went downstairs about 12 and found the ladies in the drawing-room all
+complaining of the cold. Lady Derby took me over the house--it has not
+the beautiful proportions of Hatfield--is long, low, and rambling, but
+most comfortable. The library is a fine room with deep window recesses,
+and most comfortable with a bright fire burning. The librarian was there
+and showed us some of his treasures, among them an old copy of the
+"Roman de la Rose," and various old manuscripts. We went on to the
+dining-room, and Lady Derby explained the family portraits to me. The
+long, unbroken line of Earls of Derby is most interesting, and the
+change in the portraits for the two or three generations where the
+French blood shows itself, most curious. The wife of the Earl of Derby
+who died on the scaffold, giving his life for his King, was the famous
+Charlotte de la Tremouille, who defended her castle--Lathom House--so
+gallantly against Fairfax and his Roundheads. Do you remember one of our
+school-room books in America, "Heroines of History," where there was a
+description of the siege of Lathom House, and a picture of the Countess
+of Derby standing on the ramparts in a riding habit and hat and feathers
+and apparently loading a cannon herself and showing a gunner how to
+point it?
+
+The portraits are most interesting; first the regular Saxon type, then
+the French streak, pale oval faces, and dark eyes and hair (not unlike
+the Stuarts, who have always a foreign look); then the true British,
+more and more accentuated down to the present Earl. They have also in
+one of the halls the block on which the Lord Derby knelt who was
+beheaded in 1631.
+
+The sportsmen arrived about tea-time, apparently neither cold nor tired,
+and having had a fine shoot.
+
+    New Year's Day, 1886.
+
+We are leaving this afternoon for Luton, Mme. de Falbe's place, where
+there is a ball and cotillon to-night. We were to go and join the
+shooters yesterday, but it was rainy and cold, and the ladies didn't
+care to go out. The talk at luncheon was pleasant; Froude is brilliant
+and easy. His American experiences and stories were amusing, but I told
+him he mustn't take the very eccentric ladies and gentlemen whom he had
+encountered as specimens of Americans. I didn't know any such people,
+that really most of us were quite quiet and ordinary, and like everybody
+else. Lord Derby rather urged him on, and was amused at our perfectly
+amicable discussion. We drove over to Croxteth, Lord Sefton's place,
+after lunch. The park is fine and they have capital shooting. Our
+evening was quiet, and we broke up early, as they always have a midnight
+service in the chapel on New Year's eve for the family and servants and
+any of the guests who like to attend. We left the drawing-room at 10.30,
+so that the servants might put out the lights, finish their work, etc.,
+and also to have time to get out of our low dresses and jewels. A little
+before 12 Lady Margaret Cecil (Lady Derby's daughter by her first
+husband, Lord Salisbury) came for us and we went to the chapel. I had
+put on a dark cloth dress and jacket, nothing on my head. The chapel was
+full, all the servants (including my French maid) and household. Lady
+Margaret, looking like a saint in her plain black dress, and beautiful
+earnest expression, sat at the little organ, and everybody, gardeners,
+keepers, coachmen, cooks, housemaids, joined in the singing. It was very
+solemn and impressive. At the end of the service we all went out first,
+and then Lady Margaret and her brother Lord Lionel stood at the head of
+the stairs and shook hands with all the guests, and all the servants,
+wishing all a "Happy New Year." It was a nice beginning of the New Year.
+Lord Derby hopes our next one will be also in England and at Knowsley,
+but everything is so uncertain, and of such short duration in our
+country (especially Cabinets) that we can hardly look forward a year.
+
+    #Luton#,
+    January 3, 1886.
+
+Our journey yesterday from Knowsley was not very long, and some of the
+country all about Matlock, in Derbyshire, quite wild and lovely. Our
+host here is M. de Falbe, Danish Minister, who married Mrs. Leigh, owner
+of this charming place. We found the house party, mostly young,
+assembled in the morning-room with tea, the ladies all, as usual, in
+very dressy tea-gowns. I can't quite get used to that fashion, though I
+see it is very practical in the country at this season. Everyone goes
+out (in all weathers generally) from luncheon till tea-time, and of
+course one must get out of short skirts and muddy boots before coming
+down to the drawing-room. We went up early to dress, as Mme. de Falbe
+wanted to dine precisely at 8, on account of the ball afterwards. The
+house is large, with endless corners and corridors, fine drawing-rooms,
+library, and a large chapel with a fine organ. The dinner was handsome
+and very well arranged, five round tables, and quantities of silver,
+flowers, servants, etc. About 10.30 the company began to arrive, many
+county neighbours, Salisburys, Lyttons, Caledons, etc., bringing their
+house parties with them. We had a very pretty cotillon. At the end the
+children's pony came in carrying two big baskets filled with presents.
+The poor little thing was very gentle, but was evidently afraid of
+slipping on the parquet floor.
+
+[Illustration: The Late Earl of Derby
+
+From a photograph by Franz Baum, London]
+
+    Sunday, 3d.
+
+To-day has been charming; first the service in the house chapel, very
+good organ music--Mme. de Falbe is musical and arranges everything.
+After breakfast they organized a paper hunt for the "jeunesse" in the
+park, and the older people walked about. The rendezvous was the dairy--a
+model one, quite delightful with tiles, and creepers running along the
+walls and peeping everywhere in at the windows. One by one the young
+people assembled, flushed and exhausted with running, and all clamouring
+for tea. Comte Jacques de Pourtales (one of our Secretaries), a young
+officer of the Blues, and Forbes, Mme. de Falbe's son-in-law, were the
+hares and got in some time before the hounds. After tea Falbe took me
+over to the stables, where there were plenty of horses, and also to the
+"vacherie," which was perfect. They have 40 small Alderney cows, all the
+same breed and colour, pretty little beasts, and so wonderfully clean,
+kept like pet dogs.
+
+The dinner and evening was most lively, choruses, banjos (which is a
+favourite instrument in English houses), and every kind of game,
+including musical chairs--M. de Falbe at the piano. I think everyone
+played except the Falbes and ourselves. W. and Falbe retired afterwards
+to the smoking-room, and were deep in foreign politics. Falbe is a
+perfect type of the diplomatist, tall, good-looking, and a charming,
+courteous manner. We ladies went off about 11, and an hour later we
+heard the most unearthly noises in the house. All the men parading the
+corridors with banjos, bells, gongs, etc., and singing (if singing it
+can be called) at the top of their voices. They stopped at every door to
+serenade. The party breaks up to-morrow, and we all go back to London.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #London#,
+    Sunday, January 17, 1886.
+
+We had a musical dinner last night for Miss Griswold and Albanesi, and
+they sang and played all the evening. Albanesi has a charming, delicate
+touch, and plays with all the Italian brio. He told me--what surprised
+me--that he was always frightfully nervous when playing in public, and
+much preoccupied with the "composition de la salle"--if he saw one or
+two unsympathetic faces he had at once a disagreeable sensation!
+Gertrude Griswold has always the same lovely voice with a beautiful
+clear ring in it, and sings most artistically.
+
+This morning we have been to church at St. Paul's. It is a fine service,
+a splendid organ, and very good well-trained choir--but not at all
+solemn. I felt as if I was in one of the great Catholic cathedrals in
+Italy. People were coming and going all the time, and walking about the
+church. It is so enormous that it is quite a walk from the big doors to
+the small (comparatively) enclosed space where the congregation
+assembles.
+
+I have been at home all the afternoon receiving--men only, which is a
+regular London custom. Adams came in at tea-time. He and W. always like
+to have a good talk over old times. They were at school and college
+together, and Adams, when he was Charge d'Affaires at the British
+Embassy, used to have all sorts of questions to treat with W., who was
+then Ministre des Affaires Etrangeres in Paris. They always began their
+conversations in French, and then fell into English, which of course
+they had always spoken together.
+
+To-night we have a small dinner for Rustem Pacha, and I have asked one
+or two people in the evening. I should like to be at home always on
+Sunday night, as we did in the Champs Elysees, but they tell me no
+English will come. Many of them don't go out on Sunday night, and don't
+take their horses out, and give servants a rest. I asked Lady A., who is
+very mondaine, if she would come to dinner to meet a few colleagues, and
+she said--"Dear Mme. Waddington, let me come another night; I never take
+out my carriage and servants on Sunday."
+
+Jean Gordon Gumming is very much exercised over what she calls my French
+ways, and constantly tells me people don't do such and such things in
+England; but I always tell her the French Embassy is _not_ England;
+however, she is rather worried over me, and finds me un-English (which
+is not surprising) and unconventional, which is also not surprising,
+considering my nationality.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    January 21, 1886.
+
+We have had a great function to-day, the Queen opened Parliament. We all
+went in gala, Countess D'A. and P. with us, the men in uniform, I in red
+satin, low, with diamonds and feathers. The road was lined with
+policemen and mounted soldiers in lieu of infantry, as there would have
+been with us. As we passed through the Horse-Guards the trumpeters
+saluted. We went at once into the great hall of the Lords', which was a
+fine sight. All the peers were there in their scarlet robes trimmed with
+white fur, and the women in low dresses, diamonds, and feathers
+(feathers play a great part in all English toilettes). The Judges also
+were in full dress, with wigs and gowns. About 1.30 the Princes began to
+arrive, Prince of Wales, Dukes of Edinburgh, Connaught, and Cambridge
+all also in scarlet robes with bands of ermine and gold, and the collar
+of the Garter. We sat close to the Throne (Countess Karolyi didn't come,
+so I was Doyenne), then Madame de Staal and the Duchesses Bedford,
+Hamilton, Sutherland, and others. The Prince of Wales stood next to me
+some time, presenting the Duke of Connaught, whom I had not seen, and
+talked pleasantly enough, explaining various things to me; also said he
+was rather shy at taking his seat on the raised platform until the last
+moment. He had an arm-chair on the right of the Throne. I asked him for
+whom the other arm-chair was and he said it was his father's, had never
+been used since his death, and showed me the Saxon arms on it. The three
+brothers, Wales, Edinburgh, and Connaught, remained standing together.
+The other Princes, Christian, Duke of Teck, and Henry of Battenberg,
+were opposite to us; Battenberg, who has a slight, stylish figure,
+looking handsome in British Volunteer Uniform (dark green) with the
+collar of the Garter. Teck looks badly, older and thinner. He must have
+been a very handsome man (which, by the way, he tells one frequently).
+When Prince Alexander of Battenberg was at one of the Court balls
+everyone was talking about him and saying what a magnificent man he was.
+Teck, who was dancing a quadrille with me, was much put out, and said to
+me, "Do you really find Battenberg so very handsome? It is a pity you
+didn't know me when I was his age; I was much handsomer," and appealed
+to Count D., Austrian Ambassador, an old friend and "compagnon d'armes,"
+to support his statement, which I must say he did most warmly, and one
+can quite see it.
+
+All the Ambassadors and men of the Corps Diplomatique faced us--the
+English women were upstairs. About 2.30 (we had been there since 1.30)
+we heard a trumpet call, and all the company stood up. We women dropped
+our cloaks, and the Prince took his place standing on the dais.
+Presently appeared the Garter King-at-Arms and various officers of the
+household. The Duke of Portland stood on the right of the Throne holding
+a Royal crown on a cushion. Lord Salisbury (Premier) carried a large
+sword with a double handle, and then came the Queen followed by Princess
+Beatrice and Princes Eddie and George of Wales. The Queen was dressed in
+black satin with a long train, lined and trimmed with ermine, quantities
+of diamonds on her neck and corsage, the blue ribbon of the Garter, and
+a regular closed crown of diamonds, and white veil. As she came in the
+Prince of Wales advanced, touched the ground with one knee, kissed her
+hand, and led her to the Throne. He did his part most easily and
+gracefully, and didn't look at all shy. The Queen's train was carried by
+Sir Henry Ponsonby and two pages in red and gold. Princess Beatrice and
+the Duchess of Buccleuch (Mistress of the Robes) stood behind the Queen
+on her right, Princes Eddie and George on her left, Lord Salisbury,
+Halsbury, Lathom, and some others were also on the dais. As soon as the
+Queen was settled on her Throne she bowed to us all right and left. We
+made deep curtseys, and then she made a sign that we were to sit down.
+There was a few moments' silence while they went to summon the Commons.
+Then one heard a noise of scrambling and racing in the corridors--and
+they appeared; the Speaker, looking very well in his wig and gown, came
+first, fairly shot into the hall like a bomb by the impatient crowd
+behind him. Then the Lord Chancellor, asking the Queen's permission,
+read her speech in a clear, distinct voice, so that one heard every
+word. It was very short, and as soon as it was over the Queen went away
+with the same ceremony as when she came. When she got to the foot of the
+dais she made a very pretty half curtsey. The Princes left directly
+afterwards--we too. The crowd in the street was tremendous, everyone
+always is anxious to see the Queen, and much excited over the
+cream-coloured Hanoverian horses which she uses when she goes anywhere
+in semi-state. As they only go out very seldom it is rather a
+responsibility for the Master of the Horse to see that they are
+perfectly quiet.
+
+    #Windsor#, March 8, 1886.
+
+We are at Windsor for the second time to dine and sleep, and we are
+"Doyens" now, so have a sweller apartment in one of the towers--the
+walls so thick that they make splendid deep window recesses (and a
+piano). We had asked an audience of Princess Beatrice, who received us
+before dinner about 7. I wore my brown velvet in which I had come down,
+and we found her in a small salon with a piano and pretty pictures and
+bibelots about. She was in an ordinary red costume, and was rather cold
+and shy at first, but thawed when Battenberg appeared. He has a
+delightful easy way, that sort of charm that so many Poles have. The
+party was a small one--no other diplomats but Mr. and Mrs. Phelps, both
+charming, and some English. The ceremony was quite the same as before.
+The Queen came about nine and went alone into the dining-room, and had
+her two sons-in-law, Christian and Battenberg, on each side. W. took in
+Princess Beatrice, and Mr. Phelps me, so I was quite happy. The Queen
+spoke little, in German, principally, to her neighbours, the English
+scarcely at all, and almost in whispers. I don't know what would happen
+to me if I dined often at court, I couldn't sit at table for an hour
+without talking to someone. Mr. P. says American women are not made for
+courts and convenances. They lose all their charm if they are not
+natural, and I think he is right. The cercle lasted about an hour. The
+Queen and I talked music. She regrets Muenster, who is going to Paris.
+
+    #London#, March 9.
+
+We were asked this morning if we would like to drive to the Mausoleum
+before we went back to town, which we accepted of course. W. and I went
+in an open carriage, a pair of horses and postillion, and Lord Thurlow,
+Lord in Waiting, with us. In the next came Mr. and Mrs. Phelps with Mrs.
+F., Lady in Waiting. We drove down the "long walk" to the Mausoleum,
+which is not very far from the Castle. It is a handsome building with a
+fine marble floor like some of the old Italian chapels. The tomb of the
+Prince Consort is very fine, with a recumbent marble statue and a place
+beside it for the Queen when her turn comes. There is a pretty monument
+"In Memoriam" to Princess Alice (of Hesse) with her child in her arms,
+and a tablet to the memory of John Brown as "a grateful tribute from
+Queen Victoria to the faithful servant and friend of 34 years." We then
+drove to Frogmore and saw the farm, basse-cour, dairy, etc., and took
+the 12.30 train back to London. This evening we have had a handsome
+dinner and reception at the Russian Embassy; the whole house open, band
+playing, and all London there. The Duchess of Edinburgh dined. Corti
+made his first appearance in the "grand monde" as Ambassador. He is much
+pleased to be in London. I don't know if he and W. will be very cordial
+colleagues, as Corti decidedly resented W.'s attitude in the Berlin
+Congress.
+
+
+    _To J. K._
+
+    #Clieveden, Maidenhead#,
+    Sunday, March 29, 1886.
+
+I will begin my letter this evening, Dear Jan, in this most lovely place
+of the Duke of Westminster's which Karolyi, the Austrian Ambassador,
+always hires, until after Easter, as his wife hates to spend the winter
+in town. We came down yesterday afternoon with one of their secretaries,
+a nice young fellow. We found the Karolyis alone in a charming library
+filled with books in all languages, and with the most enchanting view of
+the Thames--quite like the view from Richmond Terrace, if you remember
+it. They gave us tea--and about 7 we went up to our rooms. Mine is the
+one the Duchess always has, and W. has the dressing-room next, a large
+room, all hung with rose-coloured silk, faded into yellow now, an
+enormous bed with yellow silk curtains and counterpane, a bath-room with
+marble bath opening out of a little passage, quite complete, and always
+the same divine view. The rooms are filled with pictures, souvenirs of
+all the Sutherlands (whose place it was originally), Westminsters, and
+all the English Royal family of all ages. At 8 a gong sounded and we
+went down to the library (where they live entirely), and found them
+there with the addition of Count Victor Karolyi, a cousin. The dinner
+was good, 4 servants, their chasseurs, in Hungarian uniform, 2 in black
+and one in plain livery. After dinner the 2 Karolyi men sat down to
+cards, W. and the young man talked, also Mme. K. and I--and all the men
+smoked. It was easy enough, as everyone talked a great deal. We broke up
+at 11. This morning we had breakfast at 10, and afterwards Mme. K.
+showed me the house, which is very handsome, one large, beautiful
+drawing-room opening on the terrace and river view. They live only in
+the library, as the rest is so enormous to light and heat. At 12 M. and
+Mme. de Staal, the Russian Ambassador and his wife, arrived, and we went
+for a stroll in the grounds. Went out again after lunch for a long walk
+down by the river in short skirts and thick boots, as it was very
+damp--almost always is on the banks, generally low, of the Thames. It
+looked very pretty and gay, quite a number of boats and some people we
+all knew, staying in one of the houses near, got out of their boats and
+walked along with us. We came in for tea at 5.30, and after that
+adjourned to our respective rooms till dinner. The evening was pleasant,
+as we were more numerous and Staal talks a great deal. Now I am going to
+bed, as it is 11 o'clock, and we breakfast at a quarter to ten
+to-morrow, and get back to London at 11.30.
+
+[Illustration: The Countess Fanny Karolyi 1888 the Austrian Ambassadress
+
+From a photograph by Walery London]
+
+    #London#, Monday, 30th.
+
+We got back this morning at 1 for lunch, and have been in a wild state
+ever since with the bad news from Tonkin and the defeat of our troops.
+The Ministry is out, and Heaven knows what will happen. W. is as blue as
+indigo over the news, as he had been very cocky over Tonkin, as compared
+with the English blunders in the Soudan. Already there are despatches in
+the clubs here, saying W. has been asked to take the Foreign Office. Of
+course he hasn't been asked, and I hope he won't be, for I should hate
+to begin that official life in Paris again, and I am very happy here
+now--however, one never knows in political life. Do you know anything
+about Phelps? W. is very anxious to have your opinion. He says you ought
+to know about a Vermont man. He will have a difficult "succession." Mr.
+Lowell is much liked and admired.
+
+    #London#,
+    April 10, 1886.
+
+We have had a pleasant morning luncheon at Roll's Court with Lord Esher,
+who showed us a quantity of most interesting old manuscripts. A letter
+from "Bloody Mary" to Cardinal Pole announcing her "grossesse" (the
+arrival of a Prince), also the confession and signature of Guy Fawkes
+after torture, such a wavering, faint signature, "Guido." It is
+extraordinary how all the papers and handwriting have lasted. All these
+old-world things are so interesting to me, I seem to realize history so
+much more. I hope to get over to Paris for a little this month. We had a
+nice party (music) at Louisa Lady Ashburton's this evening, and an
+interesting collection of people, fashionable, literary, and _Salvation
+Army_. The house is crowded with statues, pictures, and artistic
+treasures of all kinds.
+
+
+    _To J. K._
+
+    #Ambassade de France a Londres#,
+    Sunday, May 29, 1887.
+
+We seem to have a gleam of sunshine this afternoon, Dear Jan, after
+weeks of bleak east winds and grey skies, and we are going to take
+advantage of it to drive out to White Lodge, Richmond Park, and see the
+Tecks. We are revelling in Whitsuntide recess, and no dinners or
+banquets until Friday, the second Court Concert. Last night I went to
+the Opera with the Staals. It was "Faust," very well given, with Albani,
+Scalchi, and Gayare. The house was fairly brilliant, but not full--the
+Prince and Princess of Wales, Rothschilds, and a certain number of
+people, who came to hear Albani (she is such a favourite here). I should
+think it would be a losing operation. Tell Janet Mlle. de Staal looks so
+nice, is so much more animated, really very pretty, so high bred and
+always well dressed. Lady Salisbury's reception at the F. O. on Tuesday
+for the Queen's Birthday was very brilliant; there were quantities of
+Princes; a Danish Prince, brother of the Princess of Wales; a young
+Russian Grand Duke, a son of the late Prince Frederick Charles, brother
+of the Duchess of Connaught, and any quantity of Maharajahs, covered
+with gold and silver embroidery and diamonds and emeralds as big as
+eggs. They always make a great fuss over the Indian Princes at
+Court--treat them like Royalty, and give them very good places. The
+Corps Diplomatique always protests. The lion of the evening was Herbert
+Bismarck. From the Prince of Wales down everyone, men and women, was
+overwhelming him with attentions. I didn't think the Danish Prince
+looked much pleased. He remarked that "Bismarck had a most disagreeable
+voice." Lizzie P. was wandering about looking very handsome. I didn't
+see Buffalo Bill, which rather surprised me. I suppose he is genuine,
+isn't he? He professed to remember Captain King perfectly when I said I
+had a brother who had been some time on the plains with his regiment.
+Certainly the "Wild West Show" is most original and entertaining. The
+Indians look savage enough to satisfy anyone, and Buffalo Bill and the
+King of the Cowboys are splendid specimens of frontiersmen.
+
+    Monday.
+
+I will finish this morning; it is still dark and rainy. We went out
+yesterday to White Lodge and had a pleasant visit. It was much too cold
+to sit out, so we had tea in the gallery and enjoyed it very much.
+Princess Mary is always so easy. The young Princess May looked very nice
+in a light tweed with a white waistcoat. She asked after Janet, and
+wanted to know if she was to be here this season. I asked Princess Mary
+what she was going to wear at the Jubilee Te Deum at Westminster. She
+said she had no idea, but she had been told long dress, smart bonnet,
+decorations and diamonds. It seems the Queen is going to wear a white
+bonnet covered with diamonds. I have asked no questions and mean to wear
+a short dress--no one will see, as we do not join any cortege. We arrive
+quite simply and go straight to our places. I shall wear white lace with
+mousse velvet, and a mousse bonnet with pink roses. Tell Janet, I am
+convinced I shall never wear my moire apricot dress from Roulf, that I
+couldn't wear last year at any of the Court fetes. I am sure the German
+Prince will die. They say he may at any moment, as the excrescence in
+his throat may increase, and then he would suffocate. Wouldn't it be
+strange if that old Emperor outlived the son. Neither sled nor fans have
+yet arrived. I suppose they will appear soon. We have one or two things
+we mean to send out, as soon as we have an opportunity--gloves, etc. I
+should think some of the 75,000 Americans who are coming over would go
+back in the course of the summer. Princess Mary told me yesterday that a
+pretty American girl--an heiress--she couldn't remember the name--did I
+know?--is probably going to marry a Count Btetju, aide-de-camp to the
+Prince of Denmark. It seems he saw her here and fell in love with her at
+once. I must stop now. Have any quantity of notes to write.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #London#,
+    June 14, 1887.
+
+London is getting ready for the Jubilee and the streets are crowded.
+Various Royalties have arrived, and one meets Royal carriages, escorts,
+and strong squads of police at every turn. It is warm and lovely
+to-day--so was yesterday. W., Francis and I drove out to Sheen, where W.
+plays tennis in Lord F.'s private court. I wandered about under the
+trees, and Francis sailed his boat in the pond and was quite happy. It
+is such a rest to get a few hours in the country when one is going out
+all the time as we are here--and above all not to have to talk. We had a
+remarkable entertainment last night, given by the Hawaiian Secretary
+(who is a German-American) for his Queen, of the Sandwich Islands. We
+arrived in due time, I rather protesting.
+
+There was a large reception after dinner and the mistress of the house
+asked us if we wouldn't stand by the Queen and make a sort of cercle,
+and a funny contrast we made--Mrs. P. beautifully dressed in white satin
+and lace, Lady R. with splendid jewels, I wore my pink brocade and old
+Venetian lace. It really was too absurd. I talked a little to the
+Princess, who is intelligent enough. The Queen is a great stickler for
+etiquette, and insisted upon the same honours as any other Royalties, an
+escort of _Life Guards_;--wouldn't accept any less distinguished escort.
+
+    #London#,
+    June 18, 1887.
+
+We have had rather an amusing afternoon. I think I wrote you that we
+wanted to leave Westminster Abbey the minute the ceremony was over, get
+through the line of troops, and back to a friend's house in Piccadilly
+to see the cortege--we being Mrs. Phelps and I. Our respective husbands
+were most discouraging (as men always are), but we dined last night with
+Knowles to meet the Duke of Cambridge, and I told His Royal Highness
+what we wanted to do, and asked him if he could help us. After some
+little discussion he said he would advise us to go directly to Sir
+Charles Warren (Chief of Police) and see what he could arrange for us.
+Again our husbands remonstrated, "Warren was overrun with applications
+of all kinds, worked to death, and it was very unreasonable," but backed
+by the Duke we determined to try.
+
+I told His Royal Highness I should put on my most becoming Paris bonnet
+and beard the lion in his den. He said, "Quite right, my dear, a man is
+always flattered when a woman tries to please him," so accordingly about
+3 Mrs. Phelps and I started for Scotland Yard. George was rather
+surprised when I gave the order. We drove through one or two courts and
+were stopped once by a huge policeman, who let us go on when we said it
+was the French Ambassadress. We were shown at once into Sir Charles's
+room, and I must say he was charming, most kind and courteous. We had
+arranged beforehand that I was to be spokeswoman, and I went at once to
+the point. He was sitting at his table with letters and papers and
+telegrams, the telegraph ticking all the time, despatches and telegrams
+being brought in, and as busy a man as I ever saw. He immediately sent
+for maps of the route, distribution of the troops, etc., and said he
+thought he could manage it. We must have a light carriage (of course we
+must go to the Abbey in state in the gala coach) waiting at the Poets'
+Corner, as near the door as it can get; he will send us a pass to break
+through the lines, and will have three or four policemen waiting for us
+at the corner of Piccadilly and one of the smaller streets to pass us
+through the crowd. We really didn't derange him very much. The whole
+conversation lasted about ten minutes, and he was rather amused at this
+sudden appearance of the two "femmes du monde" in his "milieu" of
+clerks, policemen, telegraph boys, type-writers and a hurrying, bustling
+crowd of employes of all kinds. We returned triumphant to our respective
+houses.
+
+We had a fine reception last night at the Austrian Embassy in honour of
+Prince Rudolph. We arrived late, having dined out. The Prince is very
+good-looking, slight, elegant figure, and charming manners and smile.
+All the world was there--quantities of pretty women, and pretty
+dresses--the Countess Karolyi always the handsomest.
+
+    #London#,
+    June 20, 1887.
+
+London is really a sight to-day, the streets gay with flags, draperies,
+stands, illuminations, and quantities of people gaping all day long. I
+went for a drive with Mary Sheridan, daughter of Mr. Motley, late
+Minister from the United States to the Court of St. James. We didn't
+attempt going down Piccadilly, as we saw what a dense crowd and block
+there was, so we crossed to Constitution Hill. We went all round
+Westminster Abbey; I wanted to see the Poets' Corner where we are to go
+in to-morrow, and the House of Commons stand where she is to be with her
+sister. We were blocked for a quarter of an hour standing close to the
+Embankment. Some of the mottoes are very nice. I like the humble ones
+best, "God bless our Queen." We were a long time getting back to the
+Embassy, Piccadilly almost impassable. It was amusing, as everyone was
+arranging their balconies, and we recognised various friends standing at
+windows, and on balconies directing the arrangement of chairs, plants,
+flags, etc. After dinner W. took his cigar and we walked about a little
+in Piccadilly. Some of the illuminations had already begun and the crowd
+was dense, but no jostling or roughs, everyone good-humoured and wildly
+interested in the decorations. London is transformed for the moment and
+looks like a great continental city, all lights and flags and an "air de
+fete." We didn't stay out very late, as we have a long day before us
+to-morrow. They say the Queen is well, but rather "emue" and a little
+nervous, which must be expected. I shall wear white, the only objection
+to that being that jewels won't show out, as they would on a darker
+colour.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Albert Gate, London#,
+    June 22, 1887.
+
+I am still exhausted, Dear, with the visions of a brilliant, motley,
+moving crowd, when I shut my eyes. Yesterday was beautiful, a glorious
+summer day. I was waked up at 6.30 by the dull rumble of carriages, and
+people already on the move. I thought they must have forgotten to call
+me, but the house was still wrapped in slumber, and though it was only
+6.30 the Park was full of carriages, men in uniform and women in full
+dress. We started at 9.30 in the gala carriage, W. in uniform, and were
+followed by a second carriage, landau, the men equally in gala. We
+remained blocked for a long time in Piccadilly, it didn't seem possible
+to get on; distracted policemen, mounted and on foot, and officers did
+what they could, but there we remained, curiously enough all the
+Ambassadors' carriages together. Finally an order was given to let the
+Ambassadors' carriages pass, and we got on a little. Various Court
+carriages passed us--one so pretty with the three little daughters of
+the Duke of Edinburgh all in white with straw hats, and long white
+feathers, sitting on the back seat, and smiling and bowing, and looking
+quite charming with their fair hair streaming down their backs. They had
+an equerry in uniform with them on the front seat. Once past St. James's
+Street we went quickly enough thro' long lines of soldiers, and behind
+them quantities of people waiting patiently to see the great show. We
+went into the Abbey at the Poets' Corner, where an entrance was reserved
+for the Corps Diplomatique and Court functionaries. It was a fine sight;
+tier upon tier of seats covered with red cloth and filled with men in
+uniform, and women in handsome dresses. The Peers and Peeresses sat just
+below us and looked very well; as it was Collar Day, all the Garter men
+wore their white shoulder-knots, which were most effective. It was very
+difficult to distinguish people, the building is so enormous, but as we
+were close to the dais we saw all the Royalties perfectly. At last
+various members of the Royal Family came in, and the first Sovereign to
+enter was Her Majesty of the Sandwich Islands with her cortege; then
+came quickly the King of the Belgians, King of Denmark, various other
+Princes, and they all took their places on a platform facing the Queen's
+dais. We waited some time, and then came a flourish of trumpets which
+announced the Queen's arrival. It was most interesting to see her come
+up the aisle--quite alone in front--her three sons, Wales, Edinburgh,
+and Connaught, just behind her. She was dressed in black with silver
+embroidery, a white lace bonnet with feathers, and lace caught back by
+diamond pins. As she reached the dais she stepped on it quite alone, and
+advancing to the front made a pretty curtsey to the assembled Royalties.
+Then came a long procession of family Princes, headed by the Prince of
+Wales and the German Crown Prince, who looked magnificent in his white
+uniform, and the Princess of Wales and the German Crown Princess. They
+all passed before the Queen, and it was most striking to see her seated
+there, a quiet figure dressed in black, very composed and smiling, yet
+"emue" too, as the long line of children and grandchildren representing
+all Europe passed to do her homage. It was a gorgeous crowd of uniforms,
+orders, jewels, and really _glittering_ garments of all kinds; but every
+eye was fixed on the central figure. The service began at once and was
+impressive. The Prince Consort's "Te Deum" sounded magnificent with
+organ and full band. I must own to considerable distraction during the
+service, as I was quite taken up with looking at everything. When the
+ceremony was over--or nearly--we started at once, found our carriage
+(ordinary landau) at the Poets' Corner again, and drove quickly around
+by Belgravia and Albert Gate (breaking the lines of troops once or
+twice, but with no difficulty, as orders had been given), to the corner
+of Hamilton Place and Piccadilly. There we had to leave the carriage,
+but it was merely a few steps to my friend's house where we were to see
+the procession pass; however we should never have got there if we hadn't
+found the 4 gigantic policemen who were waiting for us, and who
+deposited us rather pulled about, but intact, at the door. We found the
+balcony prettily decorated and filled with people, and had an excellent
+view of the procession. The Queen's carriage was handsome, an open
+landau red and gold, with six cream-coloured horses with red and gold
+trappings, and running footmen. She was alone on the back seat; the
+Princesses of Wales and Germany on the front seat. The escort of Princes
+was very brilliant. The Prince of Wales looked well on a fine horse, and
+the German Crown Prince superb, towering over everyone else, and his
+helmet shining in the bright sunlight. The cheering was tremendous as
+the Queen passed, and one felt it was absolutely genuine (nothing
+commande), her people (I always like that phrase so much, "My people,"
+when she uses it in a speech or proclamation) really delighted to have
+her still with them. Another who also was much cheered was Princess Mary
+of Teck. They love her, and she looked so happy and smiling as she
+acknowledged the salutation. She has such a gracious manner always to
+everyone--never seems bored. However I must say that for the Prince of
+Wales; no matter what the function is (and he must be bored very often)
+he never looks it, but always does graciously, and as if he liked it,
+whatever he undertakes. There was a very substantial lunch provided for
+us at Lady Borthwick's, and as soon as the cortege disappeared I
+clamoured for something to eat, as it was nearly 3.30, and I had had
+nothing to eat but my early cup of tea and piece of toast about 8.30. I
+went straight back to the Embassy after luncheon--even then, at 4
+o'clock, we had to go at a foot's pace thro' the crowd--and I didn't
+stir again all the afternoon, but I had visitors at tea-time, as of
+course the windows and balconies giving on the Park were most
+attractive. There were thousands of people still in the Park, and Royal
+carriages and escorts coming and going; music, flags, and a general
+impression of movement and colour everywhere.
+
+[Illustration: Queen Victoria, in the Dress Worn During the State
+Jubilee Celebration, June 21, 1887.
+
+From a photograph copyright, by Hughes & Mullins, Ryde, England.]
+
+In the evening we started at 10 for the Palace, and they thought there
+would be such a crowd that we had a mounted policeman, but we had no
+trouble. Everyone made way for the carriage, though, of course, the
+general traffic was stopped, and everybody (including our own
+secretaries, who weren't invited to the Palace, merely the "chefs de
+mission") in the middle of the streets, looking at the illuminations.
+There was great confusion at the Palace--dinners still going on and
+servants hurrying backward and forward with dishes, and piles of plates
+on the floor as we passed through the long corridor. We had to pass
+through the great hall where the numerous "suites" were dining--and we
+naturally hesitated a moment as they were still at table--but Colonel
+Byng came forward and ushered us upstairs, and into one of the large
+rooms. There were very few people--the "chefs de mission," the Nunzio
+who had come expressly, Lord and Lady Salisbury, and Lord C., Indian
+Secretary (as there were many Indian Princes). We waited nearly an hour
+and were then summoned to the ball-room, where the Queen and Court were
+assembled. The Queen was standing, dressed just as she always is for a
+Drawing-room, with her small diamond crown and veil, and again the
+background of Princes and uniforms made a striking contrast to the one
+black-robed figure. The Prince of Wales stood a little behind, on her
+right, also Lord Lathom (Lord Chamberlain). We all passed before her,
+two by two, with our husbands, and she said a few words to each one, but
+no real conversation; it was evidently an effort, and we felt we must
+not stay a moment longer than necessary. I talked to one or two people
+while the others were passing. The German Crown Princess came over and
+talked to us. I asked her if the Queen was very tired. She said not
+nearly as much as she expected, it was more the anticipation of the day
+that had made her nervous, that she was very agitated when she started,
+but that wore off, and she was not very tired this evening, and very
+happy, as were all her children, I said, "You might add her people,
+Madam, for I never saw such a splendid outburst of loyalty." The Crown
+Princess herself is perfectly delightful, so clever and cultivated, and
+so easy, with such beautiful, clear, smiling eyes. Do you remember how
+much I admired her in Rome the first time I met her? She is always so
+kind to us. W. loves to talk to her; they don't always agree, but she
+quite understands people having their own opinions, rather prefers it, I
+think, as she must necessarily be so often thrown with people who never
+venture to disagree with her. The Crown Prince of Sweden also came and
+recalled himself to me, and the Duc d'Aoste. The Queen remained about an
+hour; then the Royal party moved off in procession, and we got our
+carriages as quickly as we could. I have written you a volume (but you
+must say that doesn't happen often from my lazy pen, but I felt I must
+write at once, or I should never have the courage). Please send the
+letter to the family in America. I am dead tired, and my eyes shutting
+by themselves.
+
+    #London#, June 22, 1887
+
+We went this afternoon with the Florians, Comte de Florian, Secretary of
+the Embassy, and Comtesse de Florian, Francis, Baroness Hilda Deichmann
+and her children and some of the Embassy men, to the children's fete in
+Hyde Park. It was very pretty, and very well arranged; 30,000 children
+from all parts of London, and amusements, food, and jubilee mugs
+provided for all. We got there a little after 3, and it was warm and
+fatiguing standing and walking about. There were various refreshment
+tents for the "quality committee," etc., and the children got iced cream
+and cakes to their hearts' content, also each a jubilee mug with which
+they were much pleased. The Prince and Princess of Wales, with some of
+the foreign Princes, came about 4 (and horribly bored the foreigners
+looked--naturally). We stood and walked about until 6, when the Queen
+arrived. Her procession was rather pretty, just a troop of mounted
+police, then the Life Guards, the Indian contingent, and the Queen in an
+open carriage with 4 horses, the postilions in black, and two Highland
+servants in costume behind. The Crown Princess of Germany, Princess
+Christian, and Duke of Edinburgh in the carriage with her; and the Duke
+of Cambridge (Ranger of the Park) riding at the portiere. Several Royal
+carriages followed, all the women in smart clothes, and the men in
+uniform, as the Queen was to make her formal Jubilee entree into Windsor
+on leaving London after the fete. There was such a press and jostling
+when the Queen came--even the women pushing and struggling to get to the
+front, that I should have been nearly crushed with the two children (I
+had Hilda and Francis with me) if Prince Hermann of Saxe-Weimar hadn't
+recognised me and come to my rescue. He is very tall and broad, so he
+made way for me, put the children in front, and then stood behind me so
+that no one could get at me. I must say it was a fine struggle, the
+ladies used their arms valiantly. A small slight woman would have had no
+show at all. The Queen didn't get out of her carriage. The Prince stood
+bareheaded at the carriage door all the time the Queen was there, and
+various people were brought up and presented to her. I found plenty of
+people to talk to, among others the German Crown Prince, who they say is
+in a very bad way; he doesn't look changed, perhaps a little thinner,
+but the voice has gone. He spoke in a whisper. He noticed the children,
+said Francis was very like his father. I told him Hilda was a little
+compatriote, and named her to him. He knows her parents well. The Queen
+was much cheered as she drove off; then there were more cheers for the
+Prince, who acknowledged them most graciously, as he does always. We had
+again rather a struggle to get through the crowd and across to the
+Embassy, and then at 6.30 I had some tea, got into a tea-gown, and
+refused to move again. W. tried to entice me to the Foreign Office where
+there was a big reception, but I was utterly incapable of another word
+(the heat always tries me so); so he departed sadly, but didn't stay
+long--merely showed himself. He said the crowd was awful, and Lord
+Cranborne, the son of the house, in a wild state on the stairs, with his
+supper list, as he couldn't find half the people. W. told him not to
+worry about us, as he was going home, and I was in bed.
+
+[Illustration: The Crown Prince Frederick of Germany, in the Uniform
+Worn by Him at the Jubilee Celebration, London June, 1887
+
+From a photograph by Loescher & Petsch Berlin]
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    June 24, 1887.
+
+Yesterday I had rather a quiet day, I was still so dead tired after the
+children's fete. Jean and I drove about in the afternoon. She wanted to
+see the "Black Queen," as the Queen of the Sandwich Islands is called,
+and we crossed her once or twice driving in the Park. It does look funny
+to see her sitting up in the Royal carriage with red liveries. We had a
+beautiful ball last night, given by Lord and Lady Rosebery at Lansdowne
+House for all the Royalties. The House was beautifully arranged; the
+ballroom panelled half way up the wall with red roses and green leaves.
+I danced a quadrille with the King of Greece, who is easy and talks a
+great deal; he speaks English perfectly well. He asked about the
+Schuylers, and spoke most warmly of them--said Schuyler was one of the
+few perfectly intelligent men he had ever met, "knew everything about
+everything," I must write it to them. The supper was very well arranged,
+small tables of eight or ten. Almost all the Royalties were there, but
+not the Hawaiian Queen. I asked our host why he hadn't invited Queen
+Kapiolani; but he said he really couldn't. The ball was small, and Lady
+Rosebery left out many of her friends, who naturally were not pleased.
+W. actually stayed to supper--I was so surprised, as he hates it.
+
+    June 24, 1887.
+
+This afternoon all the swells went to Ranelagh to see a polo match, but
+I thought I would reserve myself for the Palace Ball. The Queen didn't
+appear, but we had two others, the Queen of the Belgians, and always
+Kapiolani. It was badly managed at first, the result being that when the
+Court came we had a crowd of people, officers, pages, etc., about four
+deep in front of us, so that we could neither see nor be seen, nor
+hardly move. When the first "quadrille d'honneur" was being danced we
+saw nothing, so after a consultation we all left the ball-room. Then
+there were various "pourparlers," and they finally did what they should
+have done at first, enlarged the circle, so that we were out of the
+crowd and near the Court. There was also a great rush at supper, so that
+they had to shut one door for a moment. I didn't see many people to talk
+to, but of course it was very difficult. The Grand Duchess Serge looked
+beautiful, with splendid emeralds (she is the daughter of Princess
+Alice), and the Duchesse de Braganza (daughter of the Comte de Paris)
+was charming, so very high-bred, tall and slight, with a pretty little
+dark head. I always find the Princess of Wales the most distinguished
+looking. She stands out everywhere. Our "Doyenne," Countess Karolyi, was
+superb--also with magnificent jewels. The Indian Princes made a great
+show, of course, with their silk, heavily embroidered tuniques, and the
+quantities of jewels, but they are not often well cut, nor well set, and
+they themselves are certainly off color--they look barbarians, and have
+such false faces--I wouldn't trust one of them.
+
+    #London#,
+    July 3, 1887.
+
+It is delicious summer weather now, and yesterday we went to Buckingham
+Palace to see the Queen review the Volunteers. I wore for the first time
+my Jubilee Medal. It came Friday with a note from the Duchess of
+Roxburghe saying the Queen hoped I would wear it as a souvenir of her
+Jubilee. It is a plain little silver medal about the size of a
+two-shilling piece, with the Queen's head on one side and an inscription
+on the other, fastened to a bow of blue and white ribbon. We three
+Ambassadresses are the only women of the Corps Diplomatique that have
+it. All the Queen's household have it, Duchesses of Bedford, Buccleuch,
+Roxburghe, etc. The Princesses, also, of course, but theirs are in gold.
+
+It was most amusing waiting in the courtyard of the Palace seeing
+everyone arrive. All the Royalties took up their positions at the foot
+of the Queen's tribune, and waited for her. Our tribune was on one side
+of hers, and one for the Indian Princes opposite. The Volunteers looked
+and passed very well; as it was Saturday afternoon and the shops in
+London are closed early always Saturday, all the various butchers,
+bakers, and candle-stick-makers could leave their shops and parade, and
+extremely well some of them looked; stout, heavy men moving quite
+lightly and at ease in their stiff uniforms. It was pretty to see the
+various Princes break away from their places on the Duke of Cambridge's
+staff and ride ahead of the various regiments of which they are honorary
+colonels. The Prince of Wales looked well on his handsome chestnut,
+which is perfectly trained and steps beautifully. The Duke of Connaught
+is a handsome soldier. We were a long time getting away, but as we had
+no dinner-party it wasn't of any consequence. It was such a pleasure not
+to put on a low bodice and diamonds. I always grumble about putting on
+my diadem--as a rule I never wear anything in my hair, not even feathers
+(except at Court), and the diadem is heavy. After dinner W. and I went
+for a drive along the Thames Embankment--our favourite recreation after
+a long, hot day. There are still people about, and a general air of
+festivity.
+
+    #London#,
+    July 21, 1887.
+
+It is just four years to-day since W. came to London. We got back from
+Moscow and the Coronation the 6th, and almost immediately the Minister
+offered W. London. My "beau-frere" said he would give us two years when
+we came over. I wonder how much longer it will last. We had a big dinner
+to-night, and Lord Lathom, the Lord Chamberlain, was next to me. He said
+no one could imagine how difficult it had been to arrange everything for
+the Jubilee ceremonies; that the Queen was consulted _on every point_,
+as she knew more about etiquette and court ceremonies than anyone else.
+One day he had 42 telegrams from her. We told him we thought everything
+was well managed (except the ball, where all the young officers crowded
+in front of us, and stepped on our toes, and on our trains). He quite
+admitted that that might have been better done, but also remarked that
+he thought the Corps Diplomatique a little exacting; so, as usual, there
+are two sides to every question.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    July 25, 1887.
+
+We have had a nice outing, Dear, thanks to the Naval Review; two such
+beautiful interesting days. I am burned brown as a berry, but, as the
+season is over, that is of no consequence, and I shall have plenty of
+time at Bourneville to bleach. We started Saturday at 9.30 for
+Portsmouth with the Florians, Waru, and R., Naval Attache, in a special
+train. The harbour looked so pretty as we came in sight of it. Every
+description of vessel (even the "Victory," Nelson's old ship, now a
+training ship), and all sorts of ironclads, big steamers, yachts, and
+the smallest sort of pleasure-boat, dressed with flags. We went at once
+on board the "Helicon," a small despatch boat, especially destined to
+the Corps Diplomatique and distinguished strangers. There were about 150
+people on board, all colleagues, also the Arch Duke Regnier of Austria,
+and the two young sons of the Duc d'Aoste with their suites. Directly
+after us came two great English transports painted white, one for the
+Lords, and one for the Commons, and all around us a fleet of ordinary
+rowing-boats and barges filled with people--quantities of women and
+children. We steamed slowly across the Solent to Osborne to meet the
+Queen, and passed close to the great ironclads, which looked monsters,
+and formidable ones. We had a handsome substantial lunch on board, to
+which we all did honour. There were not many foreign ships. Our two
+looked very well and were much admired, an old frigate, the "Iphigenie,"
+now a training ship, with the midshipmen on board, and the "Elan," a
+pretty little despatch boat. There were only two other foreign boats: a
+German and a Dutchman. The Italian ships put into Spithead, and then
+went off to Dartmouth, no one knows why exactly. Some say they were not
+satisfied with their place (they arrived after the French ships, and
+would have been decidedly farther off, and behind ours), others that
+they were not in good condition, not smart enough; however, they were
+not there and the Italian Princesses who had expected to sleep on board,
+and meet their brother who is on one of the ships, were much disgusted.
+As soon as the "Osborne," with the Queen, the Prince of Wales, and the
+King of Greece (we didn't understand the Greek flag at first, as we
+didn't know the King was on board), had passed, we followed and went
+down the line. It was a beautiful sight, and England could certainly be
+proud of her great ironclads filling the harbour, and showing her
+strength as a naval power. We went slowly, and it was amusing to hear
+the criticisms and appreciations of all the assembled foreigners on the
+show--however, I suppose all ironclads now are pretty much alike, only
+England happens to have three times as many as any of the rest of us.
+About 6 o'clock there was a halt. We of course had tea on deck, and
+suddenly we saw quantities of steam launches coming across the water in
+all directions. They looked like enormous white birds in the distance.
+They were almost all white, low in the water, and going very fast. The
+captains of all the ships had been called on board the Queen's yacht to
+be received by her. This made a long delay, and our colleagues were
+getting impatient, as they foresaw that they would be very late in
+getting back to London. We took that opportunity to ask the Captain of
+the "Helicon" to bear down toward the "Iphigenie," as we were to dine
+and sleep on board. We changed our course a little, and in about 10
+minutes two very smart French boats ran alongside, coming up in grand
+style. The three English officers stood on the bridge and helped us off,
+and I must say it was all done admirably--not the slightest confusion,
+and we were a big party. Our fellow-passengers decidedly envied us. The
+Bylandts (Dutch Minister) were much put out. They had asked the Captain
+of their ship to let them dine and sleep on board, but he refused
+absolutely; said he had just arrived from a long cruise, and was not
+prepared to receive anyone. We got to the "Iphigenie" in about 15
+minutes. The Commandant, Noccomore, was standing on the bridge. W. got
+out first, then T., and as soon as W. put his foot on the deck, where
+all the sailors, officers, and midshipmen were drawn up, there was a
+salute of drums and clarions (they couldn't give the regular salute of
+guns to the Ambassador, as, when the Queen is in the harbour, no one
+else can be saluted). The Commandant gave me his arm, and we went at
+once to his quarters (or rather "carre," as they say on board ship). We
+passed through a fine room or hall, the entire width of the frigate,
+where a good-sized dinner-table was ready. The Commandant asked when we
+would dine; we said in a "quart d'heure," just the time to wash our
+faces, which were black with smoke and red with sun, and he showed W.
+and me our quarters (his of course), and most comfortable. The cabin
+large, with a wardrobe, and a large "cabinet de toilette," with English
+wash-stand, bath-room, etc. For one person it was perfectly roomy. Of
+course when a second bed was put in the "cabinet de toilette" it was a
+little small. Mmes. de Florian and Heurtel had the second officer's
+cabin, and the men hammocks in some part of the ship.
+
+The dinner was good and handsome. I had the "Aumonier" on the other side
+of me. He was intelligent, ready to talk about anything, and the dinner
+was very agreeable. Plenty of talk. W. talked a great deal, and the
+naval officers were interesting, as they always are. They have seen so
+much, and had such varied experiences. After dinner we had coffee in the
+Commandant's salon, and then went on deck, where we spent a delightful
+evening. The sea was perfectly calm, not a ripple, and lights
+everywhere--all the ships illuminated and sending off fireworks at
+intervals. We could hardly see our own, but the little "Elan" looked
+very smart and natty. We broke up about 11, and I don't know when I have
+enjoyed anything so much as that perfectly quiet summer night on the
+water; such a rest after the long day, and early start from London. We
+promised to be ready at a quarter to 10 for Mass, and the visit of the
+ship. You would have been amused to see how well Drejet did my service
+(they asked me if I could do without my maid for one night, as they
+really didn't know what to do with her). He told Adelaide he could do
+everything for me except my hair, and tying my sash, which seemed to be
+a serious performance to him, and really all my dressing things were put
+out and a "saut de lit" disposed gracefully over the back of a chair
+just as A. always did. I supposed she coached him. I was stirring early
+enough the next morning, but I couldn't tie my sash either, so I
+wandered out on the deck to have my early tea, and Countess de Florian
+helped me to finish my toilette. We went all over the ship before Mass.
+The midshipmen's quarters are small, but of course beautifully kept, and
+the young men all looked as smiling and prosperous as possible, and were
+much pleased at the Ambassador's visit. At 10 o'clock we assembled on
+deck for Mass. Part of the deck was covered in with flags, and as a
+compliment to my nationality they had put the "Stars and Stripes"
+immediately over my head. I was much pleased, as it is a good many years
+since I have sat under the old flag. I suppose I can't say _my flag_ any
+more, but I feel it all the same. There were three armchairs directly in
+front of the altar--two big ones for W. and me and a smaller one between
+for the Commandant. As soon as we were seated the Abbe came, made a bow
+to W. and me, and began his Mass. It was very impressive--so still, not
+a sound except the little waves beating against the side of the ship,
+and the word of command for the marines at the raising of the Host, when
+there was a fine salute of drums and bugles. We had a very gay
+breakfast, the Captain of the "Elan" coming to join us, and at 1 o'clock
+we left our hospitable frigate for the "Elan" which was going to cruise
+about with us all the afternoon. They certainly received us most
+hospitably and charmingly; I shall often think of those quiet hours on
+the deck, and the Mass this morning, which impressed me very much. We
+had a lovely afternoon on the "Elan," practically doing the Review over
+again, and going close up to the big ironclads, such ugly, heavy masses
+as they seem when one is near them. We crossed over to Cowes, went
+alongside of the Prince of Wales' yacht, but didn't stop. The captain
+gave us an interesting account of their reception on the "Osborne." It
+seems there was some mistake in the orders brought by the Aide-de-Camp
+of the Admiral of the Fleet. The Commandant of the "Iphigenie" thought
+he could take several officers with him, and when he appeared on the
+"Osborne" with 5 or 6 officers, the Admiral was much embarrassed, and
+didn't know what to do, as the Queen intended to receive only the
+Commandants. However the Prince of Wales, with his never-failing tact,
+said he would put it all right, and in a few moments they were told that
+the Queen would be very pleased to receive _all_ the French officers.
+They told us they saw a lady in deep mourning, with perfectly white
+hair, standing behind the Queen, who looked so earnestly at the French
+uniforms, and was agitated when they passed; they only realised
+afterward that it was the Empress.[9] I wonder if I shall ever see her,
+I would like to so much. We dined on board, anchored just off
+Portsmouth, and got back to London about 11 o'clock, having enjoyed our
+two days immensely. It was a beautiful ending to the Jubilee, and a
+beautiful sight. The "cadre" was so lovely for all those big ships. All
+the line of the Isle of Wight is so pretty, beautifully green, and the
+Solent covered with boats of all descriptions, and plenty of room for
+all. Some of the small row-boats seemed dangerously near the big
+steamers, but nothing ever happened. When I get back to Bourneville and
+take up my quiet life in the woods, these last days will seem a sort of
+fairy-tale.
+
+[9] Empress Eugenie, widow of Napoleon III., who has lived in England
+for many years.
+
+[Illustration: Comtesse de Florian
+From a photograph by Walery, London.]
+
+    #London#,
+    July 29, 1887.
+
+We are starting to-morrow. I had a farewell ride this morning, hardly
+anyone in the Row, Dandy going beautifully (you know he is the chestnut
+I called after the famous horse in one of Charlie's stories), except a
+good kick from time to time, which is a bore, not only for me (I lost my
+hat the other day), but for the neighbours. We dined at Lord A.'s last
+night, and he gave us a funny account of his experience on the House of
+Lords boat. To begin with he had much difficulty in getting tickets, and
+could get none for his daughters, only himself and Lady A. (and he is
+Hereditary Lord Chamberlain), and when he finally did get on the boat he
+found it crowded with all sorts of unknown people, very few peers, and
+very little food. They were faint with hunger before the end of the day,
+so I told him about our handsome dinner and hospitable reception on our
+frigate. Bylandt then told us how badly they fared. They cruised about
+for some time in the "Helicon" after we got off, then finally the
+passengers begged to be landed. They were at last deposited at
+Portsmouth, and then made a rush for the buffet in the railway station,
+but that had been completely "devalise," there wasn't a crumb, not even
+a dry biscuit. Then they were conducted with much pomp to reserved
+carriages which were _locked_, and there they remained for over an hour,
+seeing various trains start, and at last arrived in London at one
+o'clock in the morning. Poor Bylandt was much disgusted. We thought a
+little of asking to keep the "Elan" for a week, and of doing the Cowes
+week, but W. thought on the whole it would be close quarters, and was
+not very keen about it. I should have liked it. We had all the staff who
+remain to dine to-night. London is curiously empty--all the chairs being
+taken away from the Park, which gives it a decided air of "fin de
+saison."
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Albert Gate House#,
+    March 2, 1888.
+
+I have been back about two weeks and am quite settled again. I have
+always two or three disagreeable days when I first come back from
+France. The coal fires try me very much and I think regretfully of the
+enormous chimneys at Bourneville and the _trees_ that we burned there.
+We have a fog and it is very cold. Francis and I went to skate yesterday
+at the Botanical Gardens. The ice was very bad, there was very little
+room, and swarms of children struggling along on their little skates,
+but the outing was pleasant. I also went one day with a friend to
+Wimbledon, and that was better. We drove down and had a pleasant
+afternoon, but the ice was soft, and it was the end. Really though, in
+March in England, one could hardly expect to skate.
+
+    March 8th.
+
+Hilda came in this morning with very bad news of the German Emperor. The
+Crown Prince was to start from the Riviera, and I am afraid he is in a
+bad way too. He looked such a magnificent man at the Jubilee Fetes. Of
+course even then his voice and colour showed that something was wrong,
+but it was difficult to believe that a mortal disease was mining his
+strength. We have had telegrams all the afternoon, and at 5 they told us
+the Emperor was dead. We sent immediately to Mrs. Jeune, where we were
+engaged to dine to meet Prince and Princess Christian of
+Schleswig-Holstein, to know if her dinner was put off; but the answer
+came back that the dinner was to take place. We went of course, and
+found Princess Christian and Lady Salisbury. Prince Christian, as a
+German Prince and a relation of the German Royal Family, did not come;
+neither did Lord Salisbury, who had received a telegram from Berlin
+announcing the Emperor's death. The Princess looked anxious and was
+evidently very much worried at the journey of the Crown Prince in such
+weather, in his delicate state. She left almost instantly after dinner.
+The Drawing-room is postponed. The Crown Prince starts to-morrow
+morning. All eyes are upon him, and will follow his journey with hopes
+and fears.
+
+    Sunday, March 18th.
+
+We all went to the funeral service for the German Emperor this morning
+in the German Lutheran Chapel close to Marlborough House. I was quite
+correct this time, and was swathed in crepe; Mrs. Lecky has lent me her
+long crepe veil, which will serve again probably, as everyone seems to
+think the Emperor Frederick is doomed. All the men were in uniform with
+crepe on their sleeves and sword hilts (the Germans with their helmets
+covered with crepe) and the women in woollen dresses with crepe veils.
+Almost all the Princesses were there (not the Princess of Wales), but
+the Princes were in Berlin. The service was long, and curiously enough
+was _not_ the Lutheran service, but the regular Church of England
+service translated into German. It was done, it seems, for George II,
+who was obliged to follow the Church of England service, and who didn't
+understand a _word_ of English. There was much chanting, two addresses,
+and a sermon.
+
+Everyone of course is talking and speculating over what will happen in
+Germany. All the doctors say the Emperor Frederick is near his end. No
+one seems to know exactly what will be the attitude of the present Crown
+Prince. He is young, intelligent, with an iron will; all good qualities
+in a sovereign, but he has little experience and an absolute confidence
+in his own judgment.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#, April 25, 1888.
+
+We hear a great deal now here about Boulanger, and there seems to be the
+most extraordinary "engouement" for him here as well as in France.
+Roustan, the Naval Attache, has just come back from Paris and says the
+state of things is very serious, people have lost their heads over
+Boulanger. He (R.) thinks it is the most serious crisis France has
+passed through since the Commune. W. is less blue--he knows the famous
+General very little, but doesn't think there is much character or
+backbone there.
+
+We had a big dinner the other night at Lord Rothschild's, and Lord
+Hartington, a well-known political and social figure, sat between me and
+the Princesse de Wagram. He naturally asked us, the only two Frenchwomen
+at table, what we thought of Boulanger. The Princess spoke most
+enthusiastically of him. The one man in France who could regenerate the
+country, and who would be supported by all parties. I said exactly the
+contrary, and that I thought his popularity and power very much
+exaggerated. Lord Hartington was rather amused at the two opinions so
+absolutely at variance.
+
+The Deichmanns came to see us the other day, just back from Berlin, and
+in despair over the Emperor. Deichmann said he came into the room with
+the same straight, soldierly bearing he had always had, and except that
+he was thinner, looked unchanged; but he couldn't speak, and his friends
+fear the worst. He is worried too over the friction between the Empress
+and Bismarck--too such strong wills in conflict.
+
+    #London#,
+    April 26, 1888.
+
+I wonder if you are as cold as I am to-day. I have been driving about
+shivering in the open carriage and my seal-skin felt like a foulard. I
+think I got cold last night. We had a pleasant dinner at Lord
+Knutsford's. I had Count Kufstein next to me. He was for years in Paris
+at the Austrian Embassy just when I was first married and making my
+debut in the official world. He is here now for the sugar conference,
+and we were delighted to go back to old times, as he knows everybody in
+Paris of all kinds: Imperialists, Royalists, and Republicans. It wasn't
+always easy for a foreigner to get along and not offend somebody. On our
+way home W. suggested that we should go in for a moment to the W. H.
+Smiths' who had a big political reception. In a weak moment I agreed. It
+is not really necessary to go to those big parties--one can be written
+down in the book by one of the secretaries, or give the names to the
+lady of the _Morning Post_ who sits with her hat and coat behind the
+door, and puts down as many names as she can manage. I should think she
+would have perpetual rheumatism, as the hall door is open and the
+draught something awful. The moment I set my foot in the hall my heart
+sank, such a crowd on the stairs, I should think all the House of
+Commons and all their female relations. There was a double current going
+and coming, and I was thankful not to have my dress torn to bits. We met
+Tom Leigh coming down. He said he had been 15 minutes on the same step.
+However we did manage to get upstairs--tried to find either host or
+hostess, but they had evidently left the door--so after struggling
+through one or two rooms packed tight with people I discovered a high
+wooden stool behind one of the doors which had evidently been used for
+lighting the candles and been forgotten, so I seated myself on that and
+told W. I would wait for him there, as he thought he would try and find
+some one of the family. I sat there some little time rather interested
+in the stream of perfectly unknown faces which passed until I was
+rescued by Correa, the Brazilian Minister, who couldn't believe that it
+was really the French Ambassadress sitting alone on a three-legged stool
+behind the door. W. came back in about a quarter of an hour not having
+seen any one he knew, and then we started down the staircase where we
+had the same struggle, and the cold air blowing in upon my bare
+shoulders. I was cross when I got home--however I suppose exactly the
+same thing happens when we have a big reception, as the Embassy is not
+nearly large enough. The other night when the Duke of Cambridge dined
+with us we had a party afterward. W. went down to the door with him and
+never got up again, there was such a crowd on the stairs.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#, May 19, 1888.
+
+The season is animated enough and we are out every night (not all day,
+as so many people are, as we refuse all lunches and teas). Our music the
+other evening with Wolff, the young Dutch violinist, and Mdme. Kleeberg,
+was nice. We had invited only about 50 people, all musical. Everyone
+could sit down (which the men appreciated, as they usually _stand_ in
+the doorway all through the concert), and also we were not obliged to
+have those rows of gilt chairs which grate so on my nerves. I know the
+women hate it so when they are all seated in rows very close to each
+other and not a man anywhere near. Wolff played divinely, with so much
+tone and sentiment. He had a great success. Mdme. Kleeberg always plays
+beautifully. She is well known here and much liked. It was the first
+time Wolff had played in London, and he was a little nervous.
+
+Last night we dined with Lady Delawarr to meet Princess Louise and Lord
+Lorne. The Princess is charming; a pretty, graceful figure and
+attractive manner, absolutely what the Italians would call "simpatica."
+Lord Lorne took me to dinner, and I found him most entertaining and
+original. He talked a great deal about Canada and America, and certainly
+knows and appreciates "the States." He said if he hadn't been born the
+eldest son of an English Duke he would certainly emigrate to the West of
+America and pitch his tent there.
+
+There was a reception and music in the evening, Wolff playing
+beautifully, but, alas! no one listening. Lady Borthwick (who is a good
+musician) and I moved into the large drawing-room at his request when he
+began to play, and I really don't think anyone else scarcely listened,
+and certainly no one realised when, after playing a few moments under
+great difficulty (people coming and going and talking all the time), he
+calmly laid his violin on the piano and stopped. He came up to me to
+explain, what I quite understood, that he could hear neither his own
+violin nor the accompaniment, and I could not urge him to continue. It
+is very hard on the artists, an evening like that. If they don't play
+well, everyone criticises; and if they stop altogether, people think it
+is high-handed, and criticise equally. I have learnt now by experience
+and never invite _many_ people when I have music.
+
+    May 22, 1888.
+
+We had a pleasant evening last night at Sir Arthur Sullivan's who had a
+dinner for the Prince of Wales and the Duke and Duchess Paul of
+Mecklenburg. There were all kinds of artists--singing, reciting, and
+dancing. An American girl, with a very pretty voice, sang very well, and
+Letty Lind was charming. The Duchess Paul looked very pretty and chic,
+and was most amiable. The Prince is so nice to artists--always a
+gracious word and smile. Sullivan is an excellent host, and keeps
+everything going. Just as we arrived the electric light went out. I
+couldn't imagine why the house looked so dark as we drove up, for I knew
+the Prince was dining, and there was the red carpet which always
+indicates Royalty, so there could be no mistake, but the hall-door was
+open and lamps and candles being brought in from all quarters. We took
+off our cloaks in the dark, but in a very few minutes things were put
+right, and the rooms brilliantly illuminated. W. never remains long on
+these occasions, but I stayed until the end, even for supper, which was
+very gay.
+
+    #London#, May 24, 1888.
+
+My small musical tea for the Duchess Paul was very successful I think
+yesterday. I could not have Johannes Wolff, the violinist, which I
+regretted extremely. He plays quite beautifully, with so much "entrain"
+and sentiment. I think I have already written to you about him, he is a
+Dutchman who was sent to me by Mdme. de Zuylen (you remember Zuylen who
+was so long Dutch Minister in Paris). It was a little discouraging at
+first, there is such a tremendous concurrence in London, and English
+people like to hear the same artists, whom they know well; Joachim,
+Sarasate, and Mdme. Neruda have it all their own way. However, I made a
+small party for him, all musical people, Lady Borthwick, Mrs. Ronalds,
+Tosti, Lord Lathom, etc., and he conquered his public at once. It was
+splendid playing and a style quite his own. We replaced him by Mdme. Le
+Valloit, who plays very well; and had besides Picolellis (from
+Florence), who plays well (cello), and Carpe, the Italian baritone who
+has a big voice and sings in the Italian style. The audience listened
+pretty well at first, then came tea and the clatter of tea-cups in the
+blue room where all the jeunesse had congregated, talking and laughing
+and having their tea with a fine unconsciousness of the music going on
+in the next room. They are really very tiresome. That reminds me of
+Grieg who was very "difficile," and who couldn't stand a sound when he
+was playing. He and his wife came to the Embassy one night and played
+and sang quite charmingly, and everybody was delighted. Quite at the
+last moment one of the Royalties talked a little while he was playing,
+and I saw the moment when he would get up from the piano. However, Wolff
+and I between us managed to calm him. When it was over I told him what a
+success he had had--that the Prince had enjoyed his playing so much, to
+which he replied--"Ja, der hat es laut gesagt."
+
+Duchess Paul was very amiable, stayed until after 7 and seemed to enjoy
+it; at least she listened and spoke very nicely to the artists
+afterward. I had just time to dress for a dinner at the Austrian
+Embassy.
+
+    May 26, 1888.
+
+We dined to-night with our cousins the Ivor Herberts, a dinner for the
+Duke and Duchess Paul of Mecklenburg. We were asked for 8.15, and they
+never came until 9, looking quite unconcerned. I can't imagine how the
+cooks manage. Juteau tears his hair when we are so late, but he is
+getting accustomed to English hours now, and doesn't get ready himself
+until a quarter of an hour after the time fixed. We were a perfect bore
+to all our friends at first with our French punctuality, and arrived
+once or twice before the master of the house. W. consulted Lord
+Granville, who told him his rule was to leave his house _at the hour
+named for the dinner_; but as we dine sometimes around the corner, and
+sometimes at Kensington that is not always practical. People in Paris
+are very punctual and never wait more than a quarter of an hour for
+anyone. I remember quite well when I was first married, and my husband
+was a Cabinet Minister, being late for dinner at Comte Paul de Segur's.
+When we arrived they were at table. Among the guests was the Duc
+d'Audifret-Pasquier, President of the Senate--he had arrived in time and
+they wouldn't keep him waiting more than the "quart d'heure de grace." I
+was very much surprised, as after all my husband was a personage, but I
+must say I think the rule is a good one. I was next to the Duke and
+found him very pleasant. He is a brother of the Grand Duchess Wladimir,
+and he talked about the Coronation, and some of the curious, half
+barbaric ceremonies. He had been lunching at Sheen with the Comte de
+Paris, and was much impressed with the dull, sad look of the place. It
+does look gloomy, enclosed in high walls, such a contrast to Eu and the
+beautiful, bright sunny homes where the Orleans Princes spent their
+childish years.
+
+    #Albert Gate#, May 30th.
+
+To-night we have a quiet evening, and are glad to have a chance to talk
+over Boulanger (who is coming here) and various troublesome questions.
+We dined last night with the Duchess of Westminster to meet Princess
+Mary and the Duke of Teck. The dinner was handsome and pleasant, and
+there was a small ball afterward. They danced in the picture gallery, a
+beautiful, large room, where the dresses and jewels showed to great
+advantage. We didn't stay very late as W. never dances, not even the
+regulation "Quadrille d'Honneur" at Court. He and Karolyi are the only
+diplomatists who never dance.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#, June 5, 1888.
+
+Yesterday was a beautiful summer day, the ideal Sunday of Bishop
+Keble--"The bridal of the earth and sky." We walked through the "Church
+Parade" coming back from Westminster. There were quantities of pretty
+girls dotted about the Park, looking so fresh and cool in their white
+dresses. I had various visits. Sunday is the _man's_ day in London, and
+the afternoon is generally interesting. The Spanish Ambassador came in.
+He had been lunching at Sheen with the Comte de Paris, and told me that
+the Prince asked him if he had seen his Collegue de France lately, and
+what _he_ thought of the state of things in France, and particularly
+what he thought of Boulanger. I told him I didn't think the French
+Ambassador shared the Comte de Paris' enthusiasm for that hero, but that
+_he_ had better ask him.
+
+About 5.30 W. and I started for White Lodge, Richmond Park, to dine with
+Princess Mary and the Duke of Teck. We found quite a party assembled in
+the garden around a tea-table, the Princess making the tea herself,
+Princess May and some of the young ones helping. The talk was pleasant
+and easy, Princess Mary is a charming hostess and _likes_ to talk (which
+is certainly not the case with all English women). She is very stout,
+but has a beautiful head and fine presence. Tosti and Picolellis dined,
+and played divinely after dinner. The evening was enchanting. We all sat
+in the big drawing-room opening on the garden. There was not much light,
+the moon shining through the trees, and the two artists playing as if
+inspired anything anyone asked for, from a Spohr sonata to an Italian
+canzonetta. I thought we should stay there all night--no one wanted to
+go home. The drive home was lovely, the London streets are so quiet
+Sunday night.
+
+    June 6th.
+
+This morning was the great meet of the coaches, and our terrace of
+course is in great request as it gives directly on the Park. It is
+always a pretty sight as everyone turns out. Lord Fife had the Prince of
+Wales with him, and the Princess was driving about with her three
+daughters in a victoria. The news of the German Emperor is very bad.
+
+    June 10th.
+
+This afternoon we had lovely music at Frank Schuster's. Both Wolff and
+Hollman played divinely. They are great rivals, both Dutchmen, and both
+great favourites (Hollman is 'cello). A trio with them and Mdme.
+Kleeberg at the piano is absolutely perfect.
+
+Our dinner at the Monks' was pleasant. I had Sir Rivers Wilson next to
+me, and he is a charming neighbour, has been everywhere, knows
+everybody, and talks easily without any pose. There was a concert in the
+evening--very good--Trebelli, Lloyd, Nordica, etc. I made acquaintance
+with Nordica, who is an American, Miss Norton, from Boston I think. She
+sings beautifully. I said to her (they were all talking hard between the
+songs), "What a noise! Can you ever begin?" "Oh, certainly," she said,
+"I shall make much more noise than they do," and she was quite right.
+Her voice rang through the room. One of her songs was Delibes' "Filles
+de Cadiz," which she sang splendidly.
+
+    June 12th.
+
+This afternoon we have been sight-seeing. Jean came to breakfast, and we
+started off with Jusserand and St. Genys to see the Panorama of Niagara,
+which they say is extremely well done. I wanted the foreigners to have
+an idea of our great Falls, for I think in their hearts they were rather
+disposed to agree with a statement in one of the Swiss guide-books in
+speaking of the falls of the Rhine at Schaffhausen, "generally supposed
+to surpass the celebrated Falls of Niagara in America." However they
+were agreeably disappointed and were much pleased and interested. The
+Panorama is really very good. It is so many years since I have seen
+Niagara that I had forgotten how magnificent the Horse Shoe Fall is, and
+I almost expected to hear the roar of the cataract, and to see the
+little Indian boy selling moccasins and maple sugar. I wonder if I would
+like maple sugar now. One of my French friends, Mdme. Casimir Perier, to
+whom I offered as a great treat some American home-made gingerbread,
+could hardly swallow it, and assured me that I couldn't eat it either if
+it had not been a "souvenir d'enfance." On leaving Niagara we went to
+the Aquarium to see a dog show. There were some fine specimens, but I
+didn't think any of the fox terriers as good as my Boniface. We also saw
+a swimming match, young ladies disporting themselves in the water in
+most wonderful costumes. Then to change our ideas we went into
+Westminster Abbey, just getting there for the end of the afternoon
+service. We heard the anthem, which was beautiful. It is such a good
+choir--some of the boys' voices divine, and they look like such little
+angels in their white surplices. A good many people were waiting to go
+round the Abbey at the end of the service, and we had some difficulty in
+getting away from the various guides who haunt the church and fall upon
+strangers. We wandered about with Jusserand for our cicerone. He knows
+everything about everything, and we had an interesting hour. Some of the
+old tombs are so curious. We got back to the Embassy for tea, having
+enjoyed ourselves immensely. I think in her heart Jean was rather
+shocked at the Aquarium performance--didn't think it was exactly the
+place for me--that was the reason I liked it, I suppose, I am so often
+now in the place where I ought to be.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    June 12, 1888.
+
+It is beautiful again to-day. We had a nice canter in the Row. Everyone
+was talking about the German Emperor, and speculating over the future.
+There is a curious mistrust of the young Prince. No one seems to know
+exactly what he will do, and what will be his attitude toward England.
+This afternoon we have been out to Chiswick with the Florians, and
+Francis, to launch a torpilleur built for the French Navy by
+Thornycroft. We found Thornycroft and some of his friends waiting for us
+at the entrance of the dockyard. They took us to a platform covered with
+red cloth erected quite close to the boat--which was prettily dressed
+with flags--the men said her shape was wonderful (for a torpilleur,
+which never can be graceful). They gave me a bottle of champagne, and
+told me what to do. I flung the bottle as hard as I could against the
+stern of the boat, saying "Success to the 'Coureur.'" It broke into a
+thousand pieces, the champagne spattering all over my dress. We then
+adjourned to a summer-house overlooking the river for tea, and afterward
+went over the boat. There are accommodations (such as they are) for two
+officers and nine men, but it must be most uncomfortable, particularly
+in rough weather. However, she was built for speed, Thornycroft told us,
+and everything was suppressed that was not absolutely necessary. I hope
+she will make a good record.
+
+    June 13th.
+
+Yesterday I decided quite suddenly to go to Ascot. It was a beautiful
+day, not too hot, and the Florians were quite ready to go with me. W.
+hates races and a long day in the country. We got down all right,
+hearing vague rumours on the way about the Emperor's death, but the
+Royal box was open, prepared evidently for the Princes, and there were
+quantities of people on the lawn. We were standing near the gate waiting
+to see the procession appear, when suddenly Lord Coventry, Master of the
+Buckhounds, rode in alone. Instantly everyone said there must be bad
+news from the German Emperor (which was true). The Prince of Wales had a
+telegram, just as he was getting into his carriage, from the Queen, to
+say the news was very bad, and none of them must go to the races. Very
+soon some of the gentlemen of the Prince's party arrived, among others
+Karolyi, who said the Emperor was dying--dead probably at that moment.
+The Prince's servants and lunch were sent back as soon as possible (of
+course all their provisions and servants had been sent to Ascot, as they
+have a big lunch party there every day), so we all lunched with Lord
+Coventry. I went up after lunch to the top of the stand to see the race,
+and had the satisfaction of seeing the French horse come in an _easy_
+last.
+
+We went to tea with Lady Diana Huddleston, who has a pretty cottage
+close to the course, and sat under the trees some time. I had refused a
+dinner in London, and was in no hurry to get back. We quite expected to
+see the Emperor's death in the evening papers, but he seems to have
+rallied again a little. Poor man, how terrible it is the way he fights
+for his life--and he has known from the first, they say, that there was
+no hope. I am so sorry for her--she is so clever, so ambitious, and
+would have done so much for Germany.
+
+    #Woburn Abbey#,
+    June 15, 1888.
+
+We arrived here yesterday for tea. It had rained hard in the morning. W.
+and I were riding and were taking our usual quick canter at the far end
+of the Park (Marble Arch) when the storm began. We got home as fast as
+we could, but were dripping, both of us. The water poured off my hat
+like a shower-bath when I took it off. We had just time to get dry and
+dress before starting for the station where we found the Duke's[10]
+regisseur waiting for us with a "wagon-salon." We had a short railway
+journey through pretty English village country; then a drive of half an
+hour brought us here. The Park is enormous, fine trees and beautifully
+green--such a rest after London smoke. The house is very large, with a
+great square court and corridors running all around it filled with
+family and historical pictures. The Duchess and her daughters were
+waiting for us in the morning room. We had tea and almost immediately
+went upstairs, as it was late. I have a charming big room with such
+views over the Park. There are always in these large houses lovely bits
+of old furniture, pictures, old china, etc. The dinner was
+handsome--quantities of gold and silver plate, and the table covered
+with azaleas. The Duke talked a great deal. He speaks French and German
+like a native (was brought up in Germany) and has the courteous,
+dignified manner of the old-fashioned English gentleman--a little stiff
+perhaps (they say people, even his children, are afraid of him), but I
+find him most attractive, particularly in these days when people haven't
+time apparently to be polite. The house party is small--Lord Tavistock,
+son of the house, with his handsome wife, Lady Ampthill, widow of Lord
+Ampthill (whom you will remember well as Odo Russell in Rome, and who
+was for years British Ambassador in Berlin). We saw him there when we
+stopped three or four days on our way to Moscow for the Coronation. They
+loved him in Berlin, just as they did in Rome. Do you remember how much
+put out all the women were there when his engagement was announced? Lady
+Ampthill looks sad, and is of course most anxious about the Emperor
+Frederick, and eager for news, she knew him and the Empress so well at
+Berlin. There is also Boehm, the sculptor, and one or two young men. The
+evening was short, everyone talking of course about the Emperor. The
+Duke says his death will be an immense loss to the whole world. The
+ladies came upstairs about 10.30--the men went to the smoking-room. This
+morning it is showery--I didn't go down to breakfast, but about 12.30 I
+found my way to the drawing-room, and the Duchess showed me the house
+before lunch. It would take weeks to see all that is in it. The gallery
+that runs round the court is filled with portraits of Russells of every
+degree, also various Kings and Queens of England. There are splendid
+pictures all over the house--one drawing-room absolutely panelled with
+Canalettos. When we had been over the house we went into the garden to
+dedicate a fountain which Boehm had made, and also to see a full length
+statue of the Duchess which he had also just completed for the garden. I
+am very glad to know Boehm. He is intelligent and sympathetic, original
+too. He and W. had a long talk last night in the "fumoir," and it seems
+he was much struck with W. and said afterward to the Duke "Der weiss
+alles."
+
+[10] The Duke of Bedford.
+
+After lunch, just as we were starting to have tea at Ampthill, we
+received two telegrams--one from the Embassy, and one from
+Deichmann--telling of the Emperor's death at 11 this morning--so that
+long struggle is over. We drove over to Ampthill, and walked about in
+the garden with umbrellas and waterproofs, but of course the place
+looked triste and dark as there are great trees close to the house.
+There was a very good picture of Lord Ampthill in one of the
+drawing-rooms, and souvenirs of their diplomatic life in every
+direction; signed photographs of all sorts of distinguished
+people--snuff-boxes, medals, etc.
+
+    June 16th.
+
+It is still grey and damp, but no rain. The Duchess took us for a
+beautiful _grass_ drive through miles of rhododendrons, quite
+enchanting--I have never seen anything like it;--but again the want of
+sunlight made a great difference. The contrast between the deep green of
+the lawn and the extraordinary amount and variety of colour was most
+striking. We left about 3--immediately after lunch. I had quite a talk
+with the Duke while we were waiting for the carriage. He told me he had
+been so pleased to have had W. at his house and to hear him talk. He
+said--"I am not a Republican, but I must say that so long as the
+Republic finds men like him to serve her, there can be nothing better
+for France."
+
+    #London#, June 24th.
+
+We all went to the funeral service for the Emperor Frederick this
+morning, all of us smothered in crepe with long crepe veils. It was
+precisely the same service over again as we had had for the old Emperor
+a few months ago. The heat was something awful--so many people--and it
+was very long. I dined in the evening at Hurlingham with Sir Roderick
+Cameron, and that was nice; deliciously cool, lights all about the
+place, and the Hungarian band playing.
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    July 12, 1888.
+
+Last night I had a novel and most amusing experience. I went with Count
+and Countess de Florian (they are always ready to do anything I want) to
+dine at the Mansion House. W. could not go. As soon as we arrived they
+roared out my name, or rather my official title--"Her Excellency the
+French Ambassadress," and I walked alone (the Florians a little behind)
+up the great hall lined with people to where the Lord Mayor was
+standing, with his robes, chains, etc., a mace-bearer on one side, and a
+sort of trumpeter on the other. He stood quite still until I got close
+to him, then shook hands and asked my permission to remove his robes
+(ermine). We then went in to dinner. The Lord Mayor and his wife sat
+side by side, and I was on his right. The dinner was fairly good (a
+regular banquet, 70 or 80 people), with music and speeches. I rather
+like the ceremony of the "loving cup." The cup was a handsome heavy gold
+tankard, with handles and a cover, and was brought first to the Lord
+Mayor. He rose--I did the same, and he asked me to take off the cover,
+which I did, and held it while he drank. Then he wiped the edge with his
+napkin, and passed it to me. The man next to me got up and held the
+cover while I drank. (The cup is very heavy and I had to take it with
+both hands.) The same ceremony was repeated all around the enormous
+table, and it was a pretty and curious sight to see a couple always
+standing--the women in full dress and jewels standing out well between
+the black coats of the men. It seems it is a very old custom, a remnant
+of rough feudal times, when the man drinking was obliged to have a
+friend standing next to him, to ward off a possible blow, his hands
+being occupied. I don't know what we drank--I should think a sort of hot
+spiced wine. Of course one just touches the edge of the cup. A wonderful
+man, in old-fashioned garb and a stentorian voice, stood always behind
+the Lord Mayor's chair, and called out all the names, toasts, etc. We
+went in afterward to Mrs. Oppenheim, who had a musical party--all the
+pretty women, and Mme. Nordica singing beautifully, with the orchestra
+of the Opera.
+
+    #London#,
+    July 14, 1888.
+
+I am rather tired to-night, but I think you must hear about the comedie
+while it is still fresh in my mind. It really went very well. We
+arranged a sort of rampe with flowers and ribbons (Thenard's suggestion)
+at the end of the ball-room, and made up the background with screens,
+curtains, etc. The little troupe had been well drilled by Thenard, who
+took a great deal of trouble, not only with their diction, but with
+their movements. At first they were always standing in a heap and
+tumbling over each other, or insisting upon turning their backs to the
+audience. "Ce n'est pas bien joli, ce que vous montrez au public, mes
+enfants," says Thenard. Here is the programme:--
+
+
+    A FRENCH COMEDY
+
+    AMBASSADE DE FRANCE A LONDRES
+
+    #Samedi#, 14 #Juillet#, 1888
+
+    L'EDUCATION A LA MODE
+
+    PAR BERQUIN
+
+    MADAME VERTEUIL              #Mlle. Beatrice de Bunsen#
+    MADAME BEAUMONT              #Mlle. de Langhe#
+    LEONORA, sa niece            #Lady Mary Pepys#
+    DIDIER, son neveu        }
+    M. DUPAS, Maitre de danse}   #M. Francis Waddington#
+    TRUETTE, soubrette           #Mlle. Cameron#
+
+I was very proud of my little troupe. Beatrice looked very well and
+stately in powder, black satin, and lace. Mile. de Langhe and Daisy very
+well got up, and the two children charming. Lady Mary Pepys was too
+sweet, and they danced their minuet perfectly. There were roars of
+laughter when Francis appeared as "Maitre de Danse" with a white wig and
+his violin. The children were not at all shy, enjoyed themselves
+immensely. B. was a little "emue" at first when she saw how many people
+there were, but it didn't last and she was excellent, so perfectly
+correct, and unfrivolous, and boring. Francis said his little poetry,
+"Le bon Gite" of Deroulede, quite prettily. W. was rather surprised and
+quite pleased, and Thenard beamed, as she had coached him. She recites
+some of those "Chants du Soldat" of Deroulede's divinely. It is a
+perfect treat to hear her recite in her beautiful rich voice "Le Petit
+Clairon," also "La Fiancee du Timbalier," with an accompaniment of soft
+music.
+
+All the children (as we had invited Francis's young friends to see the
+performance) had tea together afterward, and they wound up with a dance.
+The men of the Embassy were much pleased, particularly Jusserand, who is
+rather "difficile." They complimented B. very much; said she spoke so
+distinctly and with very little accent. It was rather trying for her to
+play before all the Embassy and an ex-member of the Comedie Francaise.
+Francis's blue velvet coat and lace ruffles were very becoming to him.
+Wolff told him how to hold his violin, I wish you could have seen it. It
+was much prettier than the original little play at Bourneville, when we
+executed as well as we could a menuet.
+
+We had a very select public, among others Wyndham of the Criterion, who
+is an interesting man and a charming actor. When you come over I will
+take you to see his David Garrick, which I consider a perfect bit of
+acting. I wrote and asked him to "assister aux debuts d'un jeune
+collaborateur." The funny formal old-fashioned Berquin phrases amused
+him. He knows French well.
+
+#London#, August.
+
+We have decided to go to Scotland with Sir Roderick Cameron and his
+family, and are starting in a day or two. London is dull and empty, has
+suddenly become a deserted city. Even the shops are empty, and the Park
+a wilderness. All our colleagues have gone. I think W. is the only
+Ambassador in London, and he wants to get off to France and have a few
+days on the Aisne before he goes to the Conseil General. We means
+Francis and me for Scotland.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Inveraylort#,
+    August 17, 1888.
+
+I will try and give you an account of our journey, Dear. We arrived in
+this most lovely place for late dinner yesterday, and went almost at
+once to bed, having begun our day at 7 o'clock. We left London Tuesday
+morning by the Flying Scotchman, and a tremendous pace we came. There
+were quantities of people at the station, all going apparently by our
+train--children, dogs, guns, fishing rods, provision baskets, tall
+footmen racing after distracted French maids, and piles of luggage. We
+had our saloon carriage reserved (as we were a fair party--C., the four
+girls, Duncan, a friend Miss W., Francis and I and two or three maids).
+We had also a fair amount of baskets, shawls, cushions, etc. It was a
+lovely morning, not too warm, and I think W., who came down to the
+station to see us off, was half sorry he was not going too.
+
+We stopped for luncheon at York, and got to Edinburgh at 6.30. The pace
+was frightful, but we went so smoothly that one hardly realised the
+speed. We went straight to the hotel to see our rooms and order dinner,
+and then went out for a walk. The streets were crowded; omnibuses and
+cabs with luggage in every direction. The old town and castle looked
+most picturesque in the soft summer light. Daisy and I went out again
+after dinner, and after loitering a little near the hotel we saw a
+tramcar, asked where it went, and mounted on the top, telling the man we
+would go as far as we could, and then come back. It was a beautiful
+moonlight night, and we were very cool and comfortable perched on the
+top of the car. When the man came to get the money for the places I
+discovered that I had no change--merely a sovereign. The old gentleman,
+a tall, white-bearded Scotchman, grumbled a good deal, and made various
+uncomplimentary remarks to himself in a low tone. However after some
+little time he appeared with a handful of silver. I took the money
+mechanically and began to stuff it into my portemonnaie, as he looked at
+me severely and said--"First count your money to see that it is right,
+and then give me what you owe for your places."
+
+We were up early the next morning--breakfasted at 9 o'clock as we wanted
+to see a little of Edinburgh before starting for Oban at 12 o'clock. It
+was an enchanting morning, not too warm, and we went first to the
+Castle. There is not much to see inside--always a beautiful view of sea
+and hills. There is a chapel and some old rooms which various Kings and
+Queens of Scotland have inhabited at various times. A company of
+Highlanders in Cameron plaids were being exercised in the courtyard, and
+a fine stalwart set of men they were.
+
+From there we drove through some of the old streets (Cannongate, etc.)
+to Holyrood, which was most interesting. The children of course were
+most anxious to see the spot where Rizzio was murdered, and the
+blood-stains on the floor, but they have disappeared years ago. We were
+delighted with the pictures. There are quantities of course of Mary,
+Queen of Scots--one large portrait with that beautiful, sad Stuart
+face--as if they all foresaw their destinies. I had forgotten how small
+and low the rooms are. In these luxurious days no ordinary lady would be
+satisfied with Queen Mary's bedroom and boudoir; and the servants,
+accustomed to be quite as comfortable as their masters, would give
+warning at once. We drove straight from the Palace to the station, where
+our carriage was waiting for us. All our wraps, cushions, etc., neatly
+arranged; and started for Oban, a most lovely journey, particularly all
+about Loch Awe. We got to Oban about 7, and I shall often think of that
+lovely evening. The harbour filled with yachts and sail-boats of all
+kinds--the water blue and dancing, and the most divine soft pink lights
+on the hills, a little like what we used to love at Capri and
+Ischia--quite beautiful. Daisy and I did some shopping before
+dinner--bought clean collars for the children, who were decidedly the
+worse for the two days' journey, and we also interviewed the well-known
+Ewan at the tartan shop with a view to kilted skirts. D. found their
+tartan at once of course as there are so many Camerons--ours was rather
+more difficult as there are few _Chisholms_ left (my Mother-in-law was
+born Chisholm) and the authorities in London told us we could certainly
+wear the family plaid. The shop people promised to get it for me. The
+man was much interested in the skirt for Miss W. Being an American there
+was no family tartan to be looked up, and she couldn't quite make up her
+mind. However he came to the rescue, telling her that "all the
+_American_ ladies take the Royal Stuart, Miss." We had an excellent
+dinner at the very small hotel where we were obliged to go--all the
+swell hotels were full--and there are quantities of people in the
+streets, and boats coming and going from the yachts. The Englishwomen
+all look so nice in their yachting dresses, almost all of dark blue
+serge and a sailor hat or regular yachting cap. The cap is rather
+trying, but the young and pretty women look charming in it. Some of the
+trippers and their ladies are wonderful to behold. We stood near a
+couple who were just starting for Skye on one of the steamers. The man
+was in a wonderful checked suit, and the lady in a brilliant red and
+green tartan (not unlike the Chisholm), on her head was a Scotch
+stalking cap, which was not becoming to a red, round face. However _she_
+was satisfied and so was her companion, who looked at her most
+admiringly, saying--"I say, you are fetching in that cap." "Il y en a
+pour tous les gouts." When we got back to the hotel we found that Sir R.
+had quite changed our "itineraire." He had seen the boat, a fine large
+one which made the outside passage to Arishaig, so instead of taking the
+Caledonian Canal and landing at Fort William where carriages and carts
+were ordered for us, he decided that we should go by sea, and take our
+chance of finding some means of transport. He did, however, send a
+telegram to Arishaig, as the hotel man told him he would never find any
+conveyance for such a large party.
+
+We started at 9 o'clock, and the sail was enchanting. About 12 we ran
+rather close to a small headland, and the Captain told us we had
+arrived. Apparently we were in broad Atlantic with a rocky shore in the
+distance--however a boat appeared, one of those broad, flat boats which
+one sees all over in Scotland. Our disembarkation was difficult as we
+were 11 people with quantities of trunks and parcels. Happily the sea
+was quite smooth. All the passengers were wildly interested in the
+operation and crowded to the side of the steamer. When all the party had
+finally got off with trunks, bags, a bird in a cage, and a kitten in a
+basket, one of the passengers remarked--"They only need a pony in that
+boat, to make the party complete."
+
+To say we found a landing-place would be absolute fiction. As we neared
+the shore we saw a quantity of black, slippery rocks, and on these we
+landed, the boatmen holding the boat as near as they could, and we
+climbing, and slipping, and struggling to get on shore. Our baggage was
+dumped on the rocks and there we were--not a habitation or a creature in
+sight. At last we found a sort of house behind a mass of rocks, and saw
+several carriages in the distance which we supposed were for us. Not at
+all! Sir R.'s telegram had not been received and those were carriages
+waiting for a "Corps" which was being conveyed across on a yacht. We
+tried to persuade them to take some of us at any rate, and at last with
+great difficulty one carriage was given to us. The negotiations were
+extremely difficult, as nobody spoke anything but Gaelic, except an old
+woman, and she was so cross and apparently so suspicious of the whole
+party that we got on better by signs and a few extra shillings. Sir R.
+and the maids walked (4 miles through lovely country) and we all finally
+arrived at the little fishing village of Arishaig, where there is a good
+inn. It is a little place, three or four fishermen's cottages, a
+post-office, and two churches, a large Roman Catholic Cathedral and a
+small Established Church. We had a good lunch and started at 3.30,
+getting here at 5.30. Such a beautiful drive--all blue sky, and heather
+almost as blue--and great grey mountains. We walked up two very steep
+hills, but had such glorious views at the top that we didn't mind the
+climb.
+
+This place is charming--the house fairly large. It stands low on the
+lake or arm of the sea, and has pine woods and high mountains behind. It
+is absolutely lonely--no houses near, except one or two (agent's and
+farmer's) that belong to the estate. The country is lovely, wild and
+picturesque, but it would be a terrible place to be in except with a
+large party. There is nothing nearer than 10 miles, and no real village
+or settlement for 25. We are about half way between Fort William and
+Arishaig (each 20 or 25 miles away). I think all our provisions come
+from Fort William. A stage passes twice a day, morning and evening. Our
+baggage arrived at 10.30, and we were all glad to go to bed, as we had
+begun our day early. It is so still to-night--I am writing in my
+room--the lake looks beautiful in the moonlight, and there is not a
+sound.
+
+    #Inveraylort#,
+    Sunday, August 19th.
+
+We have settled down most comfortably in the house, which is fairly
+large, but we are never indoors except to eat and sleep. We had a lovely
+drive yesterday all through this property, and to a neighbour's where
+there is a pillar to show where Prince Charlie landed. There are many
+Roman Catholics in these parts, which accounts for the large church in
+the little fishing village of Arishaig.
+
+This morning we had a service in the "Wash-house"--a red-headed Scotch
+peasant was the "Minister." It was a curious sort of independent
+service, impromptu prayers, and a long sermon. The congregation
+consisted of ourselves and the household. Miss Cameron, the owner of
+this place, who is staying at her agent's cottage on the place, some
+friends of hers, and the people of the little inn where the daily coach
+from Fort William stops for rest and luncheon. There are no other
+habitations of any kind except a few crofters' cottages across the lake.
+After luncheon we went for a long walk along the stream where there are
+plenty of fish, and came home over the hills. They are blue and deep
+purple, with heather, and there are divine views in every direction.
+
+    Thursday, August 22d.
+
+It is again a beautiful day. We intended to row down to see some friends
+of Sir R.'s about 5 or 6 miles off at the mouth of the lake, where it
+runs into the sea, but there is some trouble about the boats. Our
+"proprietaire," Miss C., seems to have singular ideas as to the
+respective rights of owners and tenants. It was so fine and cool that we
+decided to walk, and the B.'s promised to send us back in their boat. It
+was long, but the path was not too steep all along the lake, and we
+arrived not too exhausted. They gave us tea, showed us the house and
+garden, and we started back about 9. The row home was enchanting, but
+weird--not a thing to be seen of any kind, except seals, which came up
+close to the boat. I had never seen one near, and thought at first they
+were dogs and was so surprised to see so many swimming about; not a
+sound except the splash of our oars in the water when we turned our
+backs to the sea, the heather-covered mountains shutting us in on all
+sides. It was quite wild and beautiful, but a solitude that would be
+appalling if one lived altogether in the country.
+
+    #Inveraylort#, August 27th.
+
+After all they are not going to stay the month, Sir R. and his
+proprietor can't come to terms, and I think they will probably take a
+yacht and cruise about a little. The lake is decidedly rough this
+morning, but still we thought we must row across to some crofters'
+cottages. They told us they were of the poorest description, and we
+wanted to see what their life and houses were. Most wretched little
+houses (our horses much better off in their stables), generally one
+room, sometimes two; no floor, merely the earth trodden hard, and
+covered with straw. To-day it had been raining; there were puddles in
+the corners and the straw was decidedly damp. A peat fire was burning,
+and the only opening (no window) was a hole in the thatched roof, which
+lets the smoke out and the rain in. An old woman was spinning and an old
+man was sitting in the corner mending a fishing net. They were tall,
+gaunt figures--might be any age. They spoke nothing but Gaelic, but soon
+a young woman appeared on the scene who knew English. She looked as old
+as her mother, but had a keen, sharp face. I was rather interested in
+the spinning-wheel, so the two women suggested that I should try; but I
+could do nothing. Either I went too fast and broke the yarn, or else the
+wheel remained absolutely motionless. I bought some yarn, as I had
+broken various bits, and then we started home, carrying away an
+impression of wretched poverty and hard lives of toil, with little to
+lighten the burden.
+
+    #Oban#, August 29th.
+
+We are back here after a most eventful journey from Inveraylort. We
+started in the rain, the mist closing round us and blotting out the
+whole landscape. We had two carriages, but the pony cart came to grief,
+and the two girls and Francis were thrown out. Miss W. had an ugly cut
+on her face, but poor N. was lying on the ground, pale and suffering,
+convinced that her arm was broken. When we got up to them we took her
+into the waggonette and got on as quickly as we could to Caupar, our
+destination, where we had been told of a wonderful bone-setter who was
+well known in all these parts. He saw at once what was wrong--her
+shoulder was dislocated, and said she must not continue the journey, so
+we left her there with her sister and brother, and we came on here. They
+all appeared this afternoon--N. with her arm in a sling and looking
+fairly well. She said the man set it so quickly and gently she hardly
+had time to feel any pain.
+
+    #Oban#,
+    September 3d.
+
+We had a beautiful day yesterday for our excursion to Staffa and Iona.
+The sea was perfectly calm, and the lights and shades on the mountains
+enchanting. It was a lovely sail; sometimes we ran into little shaded
+harbours with two or three cottages and a hotel perched high up on the
+top of a mountain, and sometimes passed so close to land under the great
+cliffs that one could throw a stone on the shore. The islands are most
+interesting, with their old churches and their curious stone crosses,
+and there were not too many people on the boat. The return was delicious
+as we sat on deck, watching all the colours fade away from sea and
+hills.
+
+We leave to-morrow for London and Paris, and I am very sorry to go. We
+have enjoyed our three weeks immensely. The country is so beautiful, and
+then it was a great pleasure to be with some of my own people; we have
+been away so long that the family ties get weaker. Francis was quite
+happy with some cousins to run about with.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    May 21, 1889.
+
+I got back from Paris last night, rather sorry to come. The weather was
+enchanting, warm and bright, and, of course, quantities of people for
+the Exhibition. It isn't half ready yet, but is most interesting--so
+much to see. I dined and breakfasted there several times at the various
+restaurants--one evening with the Walter Burns and a party, and we went
+afterward to see the "fontaines lumineuses," which are really
+fairy-like; but such a crowd. I also heard the two American prima
+donnas--Miss Eames, who is very handsome, has a fresh, young voice, and
+is an ideal Juliette. She is a vision really in her bridal dress as
+Juliette. Miss Sanderson is also very handsome, but in quite a different
+style. Her voice is very high and true; she was singing "Esclarmonde" at
+the Opera Comique. Massenet has taught her everything. I have found
+quantities of invitations here, in fact was obliged to come over, as we
+have a big dinner the day after to-morrow, and the Court ball.
+
+    Tuesday, May 28, 1889.
+
+We had our first encounter with Boulanger this morning. W. and I were
+walking our horses down the Row when we met three gentlemen cantering
+toward us. As they passed we heard they were speaking French, but didn't
+pay any particular attention. I merely said, "I wonder who those men
+are," one so rarely hears French spoken in the Row. A few minutes later
+we met Lord Charles Beresford, who took a little turn with us, and said
+to W., "The other distinguished Frenchman is also in the Row,"--then we
+divined. A few moments afterward (the Row is so small one crosses people
+all the time) we met them again, Boulanger in the middle riding his
+famous black horse--a man on each side riding good horses, chestnuts.
+They all wore top-hats, which no Englishmen do now in the morning. The
+men all wear low hats, the women also, and covert coats, the girls
+cotton blouses; not at all the correct style we used to admire as
+children in _Punch_ when those beautiful women of Leech's riding in the
+Park filled our childish hearts with envy. I was rather curious as to
+what would happen, as W. knows Boulanger slightly, and went to him when
+he was Minister of War about something concerning the military attache;
+however, there was no difficulty, as Boulanger was apparently too
+engrossed in conversation with his companions to notice anyone. I wonder
+if we shall meet him anywhere? They tell us that some of the society
+people mean to invite him, but I suppose they will scarcely ask us
+together.
+
+    Thursday, May 30th.
+
+Yesterday was the last Drawing-room of this season. I rather feel as if
+it were my last in London, but one never knows. We (Corps Diplomatique)
+were still all in black, the English in colours. It was long and tiring.
+We dined at Lord Sudeley's--I rather wishing I had no engagement. I am
+always tired after those hours of standing, and the diadem is heavy, and
+the train, too, held over one's arm; however, I was quite repaid, as I
+had a charming neighbour. I didn't know at all who he was, as they
+rarely introduce in England, so we embarked on one of those banal, inane
+conversations one has with a stranger of whom one knows nothing, and
+were talking on smoothly about nothing at all, when he remarked,
+casually, "I suppose you never go to church." This I at once resented
+vehemently, so he explained that he didn't know, as I was a Frenchwoman,
+probably a Catholic (as if they didn't go to church), etc. He turned out
+to be Canon Rogers, a charming, intelligent, well-known man, most
+independent in his words and actions. He is rector of St. Botolph's, a
+church in Bishopsgate, the most disreputable part of London. We became
+great friends, and he asked me if I would go and lunch with him one
+Sunday, and he would show me Petticoat Lane. I agreed of course, and we
+decided for next Sunday. He said he had never had a French lady and an
+Ambassadress as a guest, and didn't quite know what to do. Should he ask
+the Prince of Wales and order champagne? I told him my tastes were very
+simple, and if I might bring my cousin Hilda, and one of the
+Secretaries, I should be quite happy--also I liked apple-pie, which he
+says his cook makes very well. I haven't had such a pleasant dinner for
+a long time.
+
+    Monday, June 3d.
+
+We made our expedition to Bishopsgate yesterday, and most interesting it
+was. I went with Hilda and M. Lecomte, one of the secretaries, who knows
+English, and is very keen to see anything a little out of the way. We
+had a long drive to the church through the city, and arrived only to
+hear the end of Canon Rogers' sermon, which was strong and practical. As
+soon as the service was over we went down to the door and found him and
+his curate waiting for us. The first thing he did was to send away my
+carriage, which had already attracted much attention with the tall
+footman, velvet breeches, cockades, etc. He said he would never venture
+into Petticoat Lane in such an equipage, and would we please share his
+modest conveyance; so Hilda and I got into his victoria, and Lecomte and
+the curate walked close to the carriage behind. We had two policemen in
+front, two behind, and a detective. I rather demurred to such a display
+of municipal strength on my account, but he said it was necessary, he
+much preferred having them, he was afraid people would crowd around us
+and insist upon my buying something. The street was narrow, crowded with
+people, as there was also a fair going on and everything imaginable
+being sold (it is the one place in London where you can buy _one_ shoe
+or _one_ stocking!). The people were almost all Jews, and I must say
+they were a bad-looking lot, frightfully rough specimens. Some of the
+women, girls too, with such sullen, scowling faces. We went at a foot's
+pace (the only carriage), and hadn't the slightest difficulty in making
+our way. Everyone knew Mr. Rogers and spoke to him--"Good morning,
+Governor," "God bless you, Sir." Two or three children ran up to him,
+one a pretty little dark-eyed girl breathless to tell him she was in
+church, though she came late. He was so nice to them all, called them
+all by name, patted the children on the head, and exhorted some of the
+women to keep their husbands out of the drinking shops, and to wash
+their children's faces. They say he does an immense amount of good down
+there, but it must be uphill work. I have rarely seen such a forbidding
+looking set of people. Some of the women came up rather close to the low
+victoria and made comments on our garments. (We had dressed very simply
+at his request. I wore my blue foulard and a blue straw bonnet with iris
+on it. Hilda was in light grey with a black hat.) "You have got a
+beautiful bonnet, my lady. Oh, look at her umbrell!" The "umbrell"
+excited much attention. I couldn't think why at first, as it was also
+rather dark and plain; when I remembered that it had a watch in the
+handle upon which, of course, all eyes were fixed. I think the detective
+kept his eye upon it too, as he came up rather close on my side. The
+detective took Lecomte to a famous jeweller's shop near in Whitechapel,
+where there had been a murder some days ago. We drove all through the
+fair surrounded by these villainous faces (here and there a pretty,
+fair, innocent, childish face) and I wasn't sorry to get back to
+civilisation and the rectory, though I am very glad to have seen it. The
+rectory is a large old-fashioned house in Devonshire Square, shut in
+with high houses and high trees, and never, I should think, could a ray
+of sunshine get anywhere near it. One felt miles away from London and
+life of any kind. It was a curious contrast to the turbulent, noisy,
+seething crowd we had just left. We had a charming breakfast, Mr. Rogers
+talking all the time delightfully, so original and so earnest, convinced
+that everyone in their small circle could do so much to help, not only
+the poor but the really bad, if only by example and a little sympathy;
+he says no one ever helps the bad ones, only the deserving poor get
+looked after.
+
+About 3.30 we started again to see the People's Palace, which he takes
+great interest in, and hopes he may succeed in keeping the men away from
+the drinking shops in the evening. It looked comfortable and practical,
+the reading-room particularly, which is large and airy, with all sorts
+of morning and evening papers (some foreign ones), illustrated papers,
+and good, standard books. The librarian told me that Walter Scott was
+always asked for, also some American books, particularly Indian stories,
+and travels of all kinds. I was rather interested in hearing that, as
+whenever W. gives books to a school library, or prizes in France, Walter
+Scott or Fenimore Cooper are still the favourites (translated, of
+course. I read the "Last of the Mohicans" in French, and it was very
+well done). There were not many people, but Mr. Rogers says on a fine,
+warm Sunday they all prefer to be in the open air. There is also a large
+swimming bath, given by Lord Rosebery. We parted from our host at the
+door, having had a delightful afternoon. It is a long time since I have
+heard anyone talk who interested me so much.
+
+The drive home along the Embankment was nice--quantities of people out,
+quite like a Sunday in France. We dined quietly at home. W. was much
+interested in my day. I think if he had known exactly where I was going,
+and that an escort of police was necessary, he wouldn't have agreed to
+the expedition.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    Thursday, June 4, 1889.
+
+The Court Ball was brilliant last night. The Prince opened the ball with
+Princess Louise, and the Princess with Lord Fife. The engagement of
+Princess Louise of Wales to Lord Fife is just announced, and has of
+course created quite a sensation. Of course there are two currents of
+opinion--the old-fashioned people are rather shocked at the idea of a
+Royal Princess marrying a subject; but I fancy the entourage of the
+Prince and Princess of Wales are pleased,--and Fife is a general
+favourite. It is not very easy for the English princesses to marry. They
+_must_ marry Protestants, and there are not many Protestant princes who
+are not near relations.
+
+I talked a little to the Shah, but I didn't find that very amusing. He
+knows very little English or French, and has a most disagreeable way of
+looking hard at one. He planted himself directly in front of me, very
+close, and said "he thought he had seen me before," which of course he
+had, in Paris.
+
+It seems that one of the Princesses pointed out to him, in the
+supper-room, a lady neither very young nor very beautiful, who was
+covered with splendid jewels, thinking they might interest him. He
+stopped short in front of her--then turned his back at once, saying
+"monstre." They say he finds no woman handsome who has passed twenty.
+
+    Tuesday, July 2d.
+
+It was a splendid summer day yesterday, ideal, for the Shah's arrival by
+water. We drove down to the Speaker's to see him come. The streets were
+lined with troops, and there were quantities of people about. They let
+us drive through the Mall and to Westminster between the lines of
+soldiers (all the traffic was stopped). Almost all the houses and
+balconies on the way were draped with red, and crowded with women in
+their light, gay summer dresses. There were a good many people at the
+Speaker's, who gave us some tea and strawberries. The Royal Barge
+arrived very punctually. It was not very beautiful--an ordinary river
+steamer, painted light grey, with gold lines, and fitted up with palms,
+red cushions, and carpets, etc. The Thames was a pretty sight, such
+quantities of boats of all kinds. We saw everything quite well. There
+was a fair procession of state carriages, and an escort of Life Guards;
+but what a barbarian the Shah looks, with his embroidered coat and his
+big jewels, and his coarse, bad face--however he was smiling, and seemed
+pleased with his reception.
+
+We waited to let the crowd disperse a little, and then came home the
+same way through Constitution Hill. We met the Prince and Princess
+coming back from Buckingham Palace. Both looked very well--he in
+uniform, and she in white, extraordinarily young in face and figure. The
+two princes, Eddy and George, were with them, and they were much
+applauded as they passed. In the evening we had a musical party at
+Blumenthal's. The garden was lighted and everyone sitting outside. The
+party was in honour of Princess Louise, and the music very good, as it
+always is there. Mdme. Grondal, a Swedish woman, played beautifully, and
+Plunkett Greene sang very well. He always brings down the house with
+"I'm Off to Philadelphy in the Morning." Lord Lorne took me to supper. I
+always like to talk to him. He was not much impressed with his Persian
+Majesty either--thought the days of Eastern potentates were over. I
+asked him what he had come for, and why the English were so civil to
+him; to which he replied, "Oh, I suppose some of the swells want
+concessions, or railways."
+
+    Monday, July 8, 1889.
+
+We went to Hatfield this morning, where there was a luncheon party for
+the Shah. It was decidedly grey and uncertain, in fact, raining a little
+when we started, and I looked once or twice at my creme linon trimmed
+with Valenciennes--but as I had ordered it especially for that occasion,
+I decided to wear it. I put on a long cloak for the train. The Hatfield
+parties are always very well arranged--trains starting every ten
+minutes. It is hardly three-quarters of an hour from London. There were
+lots of people, and the short trajet passed quickly enough. All the
+women were looking at each other to see the dresses, as the weather was
+really bad. At Hatfield, one of Lord Salisbury's sons was at the station
+to receive the swells. I got separated in the crowd from W., so Lord
+Edward put me into a brougham, and asked me if I would take another
+Ambassador, as mine was missing for the moment. I agreed, of course, so
+Comte Hatzfeldt came with me. There was a large party staying in the
+house, including the Prince and Princess, the Shah, and various members
+of the family and Court. Lady Salisbury was standing at one of the big
+doors opening on the terrace. Lord Salisbury, she told me, was taking
+the Shah for a drive in the park. We all loitered about a little on the
+terrace. The rain had stopped and, though there was no sun, the house
+looked beautiful with its grey walls and splendid lines. The first
+person I saw was the Duc d'Aumale, and we had quite a talk while waiting
+for luncheon. The Prince also came out and talked. Luncheon was served
+at small, round tables in the great dining-room. As Doyens we were at
+the Royal table. The Prince took me, and I had next to me the Grand
+Vizier, who had taken in Lady Londonderry. She is very handsome, very
+well dressed, and the Grand Vizier enjoyed himself very much. It seems
+he is a very difficult gentleman, and at some man's house party,
+Ferdinand Rothschild's, I think, he was not pleased with his reception,
+or his place at the table, and declined to come downstairs. There were
+about 70 people at luncheon, and as many more, they told me, upstairs.
+Quantities of flowers, silver, servants, etc., and a band playing. After
+breakfast we all adjourned to the terrace and some photographic groups
+were taken. There was some wonderful shooting by some Americans which
+interested the Persians very much, and one of the Shah's suite was most
+anxious to try his hand at it, and forcibly took a rifle from the
+American, who protested vigorously, but the Persian kept hold of his gun
+and evidently meant to shoot, so the American appealed directly to the
+Prince, saying there would be an accident if he was allowed to go on;
+and the Prince interfered and persuaded the irate Oriental to give up
+his weapon.
+
+They had asked a great many people to tea, but evidently the rain had
+kept many away. The toilettes were most varied--every description of
+costume, from the Duchess of Rutland in white satin and diamonds (large
+stones sewed all over the body of her dress) to the simplest description
+of blue serge, covert coat, and even a waterproof carried over one's
+arm. I was thinking of going to get a cup of tea, when I crossed again
+the Duc d'Aumale, who was also looking for the tea-table, so we went off
+together and had a pleasant "quart d'heure." He is always so nice to W.
+and me, and is so distinguished-looking wherever he is--such
+extraordinary charm of manner and so soldierly. He had been much amused
+by the stories he had heard of the eccentricities of the Persian suite.
+One of the ladies staying in the house found two gentlemen sitting on
+her bed when she went up to dress for dinner. I must say I think it was
+awfully good of Lady Salisbury to ask them all to stay.
+
+[Illustration: Group at Hatfield House during the visit of the Shah of
+Persia, July, 8, 1889 From a photograph by Russell & Sons London
+
+The following are among those in the picture Prince of Wales Lord
+Salisbury Shah of Persia Princess of Wales Rustem Turkish Ambassador
+Hatzfeldt German Ambassador Lord Halsbury the Lord Chancellor M de
+Staal Russian Ambassador Duc d'Aumale Countess of Cadogan M
+Waddington French Ambassador Madame Waddington Countess of Galloway
+Duchess of Devonshire]
+
+
+    Saturday, July 27th.
+
+Princess Louise of Wales and Fife were married this morning in the small
+chapel at Buckingham Palace. Very few people were asked, no diplomats
+except Falbe, Danish Minister, who is a great favourite at Court, and
+asked always. The streets, especially Piccadilly, were crowded with
+people. We had to go round by Belgrave Square and Buckingham Palace to
+get to Marlborough House. We were invited at 2 o'clock to see the bride
+and the presents. The wedding party drove up just as we arrived. Fife's
+coach, dark green with green and gold liveries, was very handsome. The
+Princess of Wales looked radiant, and the bride charming--beautifully
+dressed and just pale enough to be interesting. The King of Greece and
+Crown Prince of Denmark were both there. The presents were
+beautiful--every imaginable thing in diamonds and silver. The Prince and
+Princess's tiara very handsome--also Fife's. There was a buffet and tea
+in the garden, also in the drawing-rooms; and we waited to see the young
+couple start. They looked very happy and smiling. Their carriage was
+very handsome, with four black horses and an outrider. Everyone cheered
+and threw rice after them. They started with a Royal escort, but at the
+top of the park Fife sent it back, and they made their entry into Sheen
+in his carriage only. They said he made a condition that there should be
+no lady-in-waiting, that his wife should be Duchess of Fife only; but of
+course she can never lose her rank. None but Ambassadors were asked to
+the reception at Marlborough House--no other diplomats.
+
+    July 30th.
+
+We had our last dinner this season--musical and all Italians, Tosti,
+Vinci, and Picolellis. Mme. de Florian came in late with her dinner
+guests, among others the Duchesse de Richelieu, who is very fond of
+music. Tosti is delightful once he gets to the piano, sings (with no
+voice) and plays whatever one wants--his own music, anybody's, and
+always so simply. It was very warm. We all sat and stood on the balcony
+when we were not playing and singing.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Hatfield#, January 8, 1891.
+
+We came down last night for dinner. It was very cold, snow and ice in
+London, and skating everywhere. We are not a very large party--the
+family, some of Lord Salisbury's secretaries, Casa Laiglesia (just made
+Ambassador--very happy. Spain had only a _Minister_ here till now), the
+Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, etc. After dinner the older members of
+the party played whist, and the young ones danced in the great hall.
+This time we have King James I.'s rooms, an enormous bed (with a Royal
+crown on the top) where he really slept. We have been out all day; the
+gentlemen went off early to shoot, and I got down about 12. I found some
+of the young women, Ladies Cranborne and Northcote, in the hall and we
+decided we would go and skate. It was bitterly cold, but no wind, and
+the pond is not far, just at the end of the terrace. There was a little
+wooden house on the edge where we put on our skates, and plenty of
+chairs and canes. Ladies Northcote and Gwendoline Cecil skate very well.
+Lady Salisbury came down to the pond, took a broom from one of the
+numerous sweepers, and swept hard to keep herself warm. After lunch I
+went for a sleigh ride with Lady Salisbury in a pretty little one-horse
+sleigh she had bought at the Exhibition. It was very good going in the
+park, but we bumped occasionally going across the fields. To-night we
+broke up rather early; we were all tired with the first day's skating,
+and the men with their shooting.
+
+[Illustration: Lord Salisbury
+From a photograph by Weston & Son Dover]
+
+    Friday.
+
+It has been again a beautiful winter's day, and we have skated all the
+afternoon until dark. Lady Salisbury came again with her broom and swept
+vigorously. It seems many doctors recommend sweeping now for women who
+need exercise and cannot ride or walk. We tried hard to make Casa
+Laiglesia come down to the pond, but he refused absolutely--that was not
+at all his idea of pleasure. We spent some time in the library looking
+over some of the old manuscripts of the time of Queen Elizabeth and King
+Philip of Spain, and we saw him taking a short, very short turn on the
+terrace in the sun, wrapped up so as to be almost "meconnaissable."
+
+    #London#, January 18th.
+
+It is still very cold--the Serpentine is quite frozen, and quantities of
+people skating. The ice is very bad, rather like a ploughed field, but
+it is amusing to see all the people. We have been this afternoon to
+Wimbledon, and there it was delightful. There was quite a large part
+reserved and beautifully smooth, belonging to a club; so Comte de St.
+Genys (one of the secretaries), who was with us, sent in his card,
+saying he was there with the French Ambassadress; and they were most
+civil, brought us chairs, and begged us to come back whenever we liked.
+We saw some beautiful fancy skating, both men and women. We skated
+afterward a little on the big lake to see the people. It was a beautiful
+day, and a very pretty sight, quite like a Dutch picture.
+
+I was interrupted by a visit from Mr. Bryce. He came really to ask about
+you and to know if you would stay on at Alassio. He spoke so warmly and
+admiringly of Schuyler that it was a pleasure to hear him. He said he
+was certainly the cleverest, most cultivated American he had ever seen,
+that he had never met anyone who knew so many things well. He couldn't
+conceive how any Government that had such a man to place could have let
+any party feeling prevent them from giving him a prominent place, in
+their own interest.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Thursday, February 19th.
+
+We have had a funny day. There was a sale of horses, hunters
+principally, at Cricklewood, a place just outside of London, where they
+have very good horses. We have been there several times with Deichmann,
+who has always fine horses, and have bought two or three ourselves. I am
+looking for a saddle horse, so W. and I drove out the other day, and I
+tried two which I liked very much (there is a riding-school where one
+can try). Then Newman, the head man, rode them over some hurdles to show
+me how well they jumped. They promised to let us know when the sale
+would be, and yesterday sent word we must come to-day. I drove out with
+Hilda in her pony carriage. We drew up close to the ring and the
+auctioneer's stand and saw everything well. Her horses were taken out
+and we made ourselves as comfortable as we could with furs and
+couvertures. It was bitterly cold, with a high wind that cut one in two.
+W. and Deichmann wandered about in the crowd. The collection of people
+was most amazing, horsey to a degree; horse dealers, trainers, jockeys,
+racing men and women--a few gentlemen here and there, not many. There
+was a champagne lunch going on at Newman's, but that we declined--so
+they brought us tea and excellent bread and butter to the carriage. The
+two horses I had tried were among the first and I hoped I should get one
+of them, but they brought much more than the dealers supposed they
+would. They looked extremely well when they were brought out first,
+galloped over the grass, and then jumping their hurdles beautifully,
+taking them easily in a long stride (of course they were beautifully
+handled, every point made the most of). W. made various bids, but when
+it got beyond a certain sum he wouldn't give any more, as it was a fancy
+price and could have gone up indefinitely. I was rather disappointed, as
+I had set my heart on the black horse. It was cold driving home in the
+teeth of the wind. We dined with the Deichmanns, with some of our
+colleagues, and everyone was discussing the Empress Frederick's visit to
+Versailles. Until then everything had gone most swimmingly, but of
+course all French people were "froisses" at that. I don't exactly
+understand her going. She is so intelligent, and had apparently realised
+quite well how difficult it would be for her ever to go to Paris. Years
+ago in Rome, where we met her almost every night, she told us she was so
+anxious to go to Paris, but she was afraid she could not manage it. She
+wanted very much to meet Renan--admired his books so much, and his great
+intelligence; and I think she would have been delighted with him. He was
+a charming talker on every subject, and so easy.
+
+
+    _To G.K.S._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Tuesday, March 10, 1891.
+
+We had an awful storm yesterday, a regular blizzard, and a terrible
+night in the Channel. One of the good boats, the Victoria, was out all
+night, not daring to land at either Dover or Calais. One of our young
+attaches was on board, bringing over despatches, and they say he looked
+green when he finally did arrive. The trains were snowed up everywhere,
+even between Folkestone and London, and the passengers nearly frozen and
+starved. It seems incredible in such a short distance. The young men are
+generally rather eager to bring over despatches, but I rather think this
+one won't try it again, in winter at any rate. I am extraordinarily
+lucky in my crossings, because probably I am a good sailor. I go
+backward and forward in all seasons and always have good weather. The
+Florians have had some wonderful crossings, nine hours between Calais
+and Dover, both of them _tied_ in their chairs, and the chairs tied to
+the mast.
+
+    Thursday, March 12, 1891.
+
+Yesterday we were at Windsor to dine and sleep. The party was
+small--Staal, the Russian Ambassador, Lord Hartington, Sir Frederick
+Leighton, Lord and Lady Curzon, Countess Perponcher and Count
+Seckendorff in attendance on the Empress Frederick, and of course the
+regular members of the Queen's Household. Lady Antrim was in waiting. We
+assembled as usual in the long corridor close to the door by which the
+Royal party entered. We were all in black, as the Empress was there. The
+Queen and the Empress came in together. The Queen shook hands with me
+and the two Ambassadors--the Empress with me only, bowing to the others.
+She is still in deep mourning--her dress black (woollen stuff of some
+kind) covered with crepe, and a crepe veil arranged in a point, or sort
+of Mary Stuart cap, on the top of her head, and falling behind to the
+edge of her skirt. The corsage was a little open, and she had a splendid
+necklace of pearls, also a miniature of the Emperor Frederick set in
+diamonds fastened on the front of her bodice. The dress was very
+becoming--she looked very stately and graceful as she walked through the
+corridor. She gave her arm to the Queen, and they walked in first to the
+dining-room, the Empress sitting next to the Queen on her right. W.
+followed with Princess Beatrice, sitting on the Queen's left; Staal with
+Princess Margaretta, and sat on the right of the Empress. Lord
+Hartington took me. The Queen talked a great deal to W.--the Empress
+joined in occasionally. They were both much interested in the
+Protestants in France, and wanted to know if the feeling was as strong
+as in the old days of Huguenots and Catholics. I think there is a very
+strong feeling, and it is rare when a French Protestant marries a
+Catholic--rarer still when they become Catholics.
+
+The dinner is always quickly served, and the conversation nil. Nobody
+talks except those who are next the Princesses. The cercle was, as
+usual, in the corridor between the two doors. The Queen stood a little,
+but not all the time. She spoke to me about Johannes Wolff--admired his
+playing so much. The Empress talked a long time to W., and spoke
+immediately about her visit to Paris and Versailles, which was rather
+awkward for him, as he regretted very much that she had gone. All the
+first part of her stay went so well. She told W. she had had nothing but
+respect, and even sympathy wherever she had been, and that she was much
+astonished and distressed when she saw the papers and found what a storm
+was raging in the press. The Queen said a few words to me about the
+visit, and seemed to think it was a radical demonstration against the
+Government. I answered vaguely that all radicals made mischief--it
+wasn't a very easy subject to discuss. The cercle was not very
+long--about three-quarters of an hour--and then the Court retired, the
+two Sovereigns going out as they came in, together. We finished the
+evening in the drawing-room, but broke up early. W. went off to smoke,
+and I had a nice hour in the beautiful little yellow salon. I had a
+splendid fire, quantities of candles (always my mania--I hate lamps,
+particularly in these days of petroleum), and was quite happy. Adelaide
+was very eloquent over the style of the housekeeper's room, and was
+funny over Charles, our French footman, and his indignation at being
+excluded from the society of the valets and ladies' maids. W.'s man was
+ill, so he took the French footman, who has often done his service. That
+gentleman being in livery was considered one of the lower servants (sat
+some way below the salt) and when the swells (Adelaide, of course,
+included) retired to the housekeeper's room for dessert and coffee he
+remained with the under servants. All these domestic arrangements are
+quite unheard of in France--any distinctions of that kind would set the
+whole establishment in a storm.
+
+It was a cold night, snow lying thick on the ground, clouds dark and
+low, and the great towers looked grim and formidable. W. came in about
+12--said the talk in the fumoir was pleasant. He likes Count Seckendorff
+very much, finds him intelligent and moderate and sensible in his
+opinions--like all men who have knocked about a great deal and who know,
+not only other countries but the _people_ of the country. After all,
+churches, and palaces, and picture galleries have a certain
+"resemblance," but people are different, and sometimes very interesting.
+We came away this morning at 10.30. I did not see anyone except Lady
+Antrim, as I never go to the dining-room for breakfast. I was ready a
+little before the time, and wandered about the corridor a little,
+looking at all the pictures. I met Staal doing the same thing. There is
+so much to see.
+
+It is a beautiful bright day, and Hyde Park looked very animated as we
+drove through. Everyone was waiting to see the Queen pass. She arrived
+about an hour after us, as there is a Drawing-room to-morrow. We had
+some music this afternoon--2 pianos, 8 hands--and we play rather well a
+splendid symphony of Brahms'--not at all easy. We dined with Mr. Henry
+Petre, one of the most soigne dinners in London. It is always pleasant
+at his house--they say it is because he is a bachelor, which is not very
+flattering to _us_, but I think it is true, I don't know why. As we were
+out we _went on_, as they say here, to Lady Aberdeen, who had a small
+dance, but did not stay very long, as it was rather a young company.
+People always say there is nothing going on in London before the season,
+but we dine out every night and often have (I at least) something in the
+afternoon--a tea, or music. I don't believe anybody ever dines at home
+in London. The theatres are always crowded, quite as much as in Paris.
+Hilda and I went the other night with Count Seckendorff to see
+"Charlie's Aunt," a ridiculous farce which is having a great success. He
+protested at first at our choice--would have preferred something more
+classic, but he was perfectly amused (though protesting all the time).
+The piece is absolutely stupid, but so well played that the house was in
+roars of laughter, and that is always infectious. The man who played the
+part of the maiden aunt was extraordinarily well got up. His black silk
+dress and mittens were lovely--he looked really a prim old spinster and
+managed his skirts so well.
+
+    Saturday, April 4, 1891.
+
+We lunched to-day with Ferdinand Rothschild to meet the Empress
+Frederick. We were a small party, principally Diplomatists. The Deyms,
+Hatzfeldt, Soveral, Harry Whites, etc. The Empress came (punctually)
+with Countess Perponcher and Seckendorff. The lunch was very handsome,
+quickly served and very animated, everybody talked. I had Hatzfeldt on
+the other side (I sat between him and Rothschild) so I was quite
+happy--there is nobody I like so much to talk to. He is very clever,
+very entrain, speaks French beautifully and talks about anything--just
+enough "moqueur" to keep one's wits sharpened. We had a discussion as to
+what was the origin of "Mrs. Grundy." None of us knew. I must ask
+Jusserand, who will I am sure be able to tell us.
+
+We were all dressed in black velvet, one would have thought it was a
+"mot d'ordre." The Empress is very easy and likes to talk. She asked me
+if I knew Deroulede, said she heard some of his poetry was charming. I
+told her the "Chants du Soldat" were delightful, but _I_ couldn't send
+them to her (they are all about the Franco-German War). One of the
+ladies, Mrs. White I think, said she would.
+
+    Tuesday, April 21, 1891.
+
+We had a pleasant little dinner Sunday night for Wormser, the composer
+of "L'Enfant Prodigue," which has had an enormous success here. Wolff
+came too, and they played all the evening. I haven't seen the piece yet,
+so I was delighted to hear the music. I promised him I would go on
+Wednesday, my first free night.
+
+Last night I went with Lady Northcote to the Opera; it was "Lohengrin"
+with Miss Eames and the Reszkes. The girl looked beautiful, quite the
+patrician maiden, and sang very well; a little cold, but that was of
+less importance in that opera than in "Romeo and Juliet," which needs
+more passion. The house was very full and she was much applauded. Jean
+de Reszke looked magnificent and sang divinely. What a voice it is, and
+how well he knows how to use it. I fancy Covent Garden is a much better
+salle to sing in than our great Paris Opera. The voices seem so far off
+there, and all the singers complain and get soon tired. W. came in late
+just as I did. He had had a delightful dinner at Mr. Murray's (the
+publisher) with Mr. Gladstone. He said Mr. G. was in great form, talking
+about everything: books, politics, theories, and always with a perfect
+knowledge of each subject expressed in beautiful English. He must have a
+marvellous memory.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K_.
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    June 6, 1891.
+
+You will be amused, Dear, to hear that after all we have decided to have
+the children's comedy. The moment is not exactly propitious in the
+height of the London season when every instant is taken, but I think we
+can make something pretty, and Mdme. Thenard is very keen about it. We
+shall take the "Reine des Fees"--but very much changed, and parts added
+for every child--also a gavotte and a chorus. I saw some of the mammas,
+Countess Deym; Mdme. de Bille; Ladies Londonderry, Clanwilliam, etc.,
+yesterday, and they will let me have their daughters. Thenard will
+direct the whole thing, with Count de St. Genys (Secretary of the French
+Embassy in London) as regisseur and also decorateur, as he has begun
+painting a charming decor (the interior of the bailiff's cottage). Mdme.
+de Langhe will undertake the choeurs and lecons de diction, and I don't
+quite know yet whom we shall get for the gavotte, or how many children
+we must have. The dresses will be pretty--two sets--Marie Antoinette and
+all her ladies in powder--Trianon costumes--and peasants, market women,
+etc. Of course the boys are a difficulty. There are so few who are here
+of Francis's old friends--they are all at school. Thenard has a little
+friend (girl) whom she will dress as a Marquis--she says she will look
+the part very well. Francis is much excited--he is to be the cruel
+bailiff who takes all the money and everything else he can get from the
+poor peasants. St. Genys will see about his costume, and make a croquis
+from some picture of the period.
+
+    June 12, 1891.
+
+We are all (except the Ambassador) perfectly taken up with the
+comedie--and to-day we had our first repetition of the gavotte in the
+drawing-room. I hadn't thought of saying anything about the dancing to
+the young men, and it seems the "chancellerie" went nearly mad; their
+rooms being directly under the salons, they heard everything--the music
+beginning the same thing over and over again--and the heavy little feet
+that couldn't stay long on the tips of their toes. I had some trouble in
+finding a dancing-mistress--I thought first of the American who had that
+dancing class here where all the children went, but she didn't seem to
+understand exactly what I wanted. Finally some one told me I had much
+better send for Mrs. Roffy--ballet-mistress at the Alhambra--who has
+sometimes arranged menuets and gavottes for "les femmes du monde"; so I
+wrote to her to come and see me. She knew exactly what I wanted, would
+undertake the whole thing--how many children--what sort of a dance--was
+most business-like--and we fixed the first repetition at once. There
+were about 20 children, of all ages and sizes, varying from 3 years to
+14--Muriel White, Gay Edwardes and her brother, a little de Breunen,
+Elsa Deichmann, etc. Mrs. Roffy looked very nice. She is very tall, but
+rather graceful--she had a little black bag in which were her black silk
+stockings and pointed slippers, and asked if she might have a room to
+arrange herself--so Clarisse took charge of her. I took the piano--and
+most distracting it was--as no two of the children ever began their
+steps at the same time. It was amusing to see Mrs. Roffy. She moved
+extraordinarily gracefully for such a tall woman, and was so
+patient--holding up her dress, pointing her toes, and talking to them
+all the time--"Heads up, Dears--Heads up! Look at me--very proud,
+please." I should have given up in despair after a quarter of an hour.
+All the little arms and legs went at wrong times in wrong directions,
+and no one seemed to have the slightest idea of time. She will give one
+or two private lessons to some of the very small ones.
+
+Madame de Langhe, too, has her hands full with the chorus, "Vive la
+Reine"--but I think she must have some one behind the scenes to sing the
+solo, and then the children will come out strong in the chorus. The
+roles are all distributed--Bianca Deym--a tall handsome girl--is to be
+Marie Antoinette; and the various other Court ladies are Lady Helen
+Stewart (Lady Londonderry's daughter), Lady J. Meade (Lady Clanwilliam's
+daughter), Marguerite Phelps, Anna Lawrence, Elsa de Bille, etc. I think
+it will be pretty.
+
+    June 15, 1891.
+
+Hilda and I have been half over London to-day for our stage scenes. We
+must have real ones representing a sort of wood where the market people
+have their stands, and the Queen and the ladies come to buy
+flowers--also sufficient space for the gavotte. The man promises to send
+it all the day before, as the children must rehearse at least once with
+the real scenes--for their entrees--that is always a little difficulty.
+The bigger girls do all right, but the little ones rush in--speak very
+quickly--and _always_ to Thenard, who stands at one side--looking hard
+at her to see if they are doing right--and paying no attention whatever
+to Her Gracious Majesty Queen Marie Antoinette. Muriel White is very
+good, very deliberate, very careful, and taking all the French nuances
+and intonations very well. Gay Edwardes, too, is very good--her French
+is pretty and easy, she learnt it so young in Paris. One of the others
+(I forget which one) was having a private lesson in a corner with
+Francis, who was trying to make her roll her Rs in a proper French
+fashion. She had a complaint to make of her garden--all about "carottes"
+et "giroflees," and the sentences had a true British ring. Francis is
+very important, takes himself quite "au serieux," and is most interested
+in the proper diction of all the young ladies. I sat some time in the
+drawing-room while St. Genys was painting his scenes. We had various
+visitors (even W., who was very complimentary over the decor), tea, and
+Thenard to settle about a rampe of flowers and tapestry curtain.
+
+    Saturday, June 20, 1891.
+
+I am rather lazy this morning and feel as if I had suddenly nothing to
+do. The comedie went off very well yesterday and was a pretty sight.
+Until the last moment I was doubtful, as we had so many peripeties. At
+the dress rehearsal on Thursday, Bianca Deym (Marie Antoinette) was so
+hoarse she could hardly speak. The girl looked very handsome and
+distinguished in powder (tres bien coiffee) and one of her mother's
+handsome Court dresses, but Thenard wouldn't let her speak--said all her
+part herself, and told Bianca to pay great attention to her voice and
+gestures. Toupet (Francis), the cruel bailiff, had such a stiff neck and
+sore throat that he could hardly move--so he was rubbed hard with
+Elliman's Embrocation and sent to bed as soon as the repetition was
+over. His costume was very good--coat and long waistcoat of prune
+cloth--lace jabot--tricorne and gold-headed cane lent by one of his
+English cousins--a wig of course--which quite changed him. The girls
+looked charming--I don't know which was the most becoming--the powder
+and Court dress or the short skirts and high caps of the paysannes. The
+gavotte went very well. The small children in front and the bigger ones
+behind. I never could have believed that anyone could evolve anything
+like a gavotte from the whirling chaos of arms and legs that was my
+first impression. M. Lecomte (Secretary of the Embassy), who is a very
+good musician, was at the piano, and marked the time very exactly, which
+was absolutely necessary for such young performers.
+
+Various friends and Mammas came to look on and criticise--which was what
+we wanted--and all were pleased. Thenard and St. Genys were quite
+delighted--and as they have seen it from the first and noted the
+improvement, that was reassuring. Henry Edwardes came, much amused and
+slightly astonished at his children's performance (the boy was so good).
+He told me he considered it quite remarkable. He offered to take charge
+of the green-room the day of the performance, and I accepted with
+pleasure, as I am sure the children will be rather excited and probably
+unruly.
+
+I had a note from Miss Knollys while the repetition was going on saying
+that the Princess of Wales and her two daughters, Princesses Victoria
+and Maud, would be present on Friday at the performance. I announced
+this at once to my young troupe, and they were filled with pleasure and
+dismay at the appalling prospect of playing before Royalties. I went for
+a ride Friday morning with Pontavice and when I came in was given a wild
+note from the Countess Deym saying that Bianca had a complete
+"extinction de voix" and what could be done. If someone else could take
+the part (which was impossible at such short notice) she would send all
+her daughter's dress, which was very handsome, or Bianca would come and
+look the part and Thenard do the talking from the coulisses. Of course I
+chose the latter, and sent off Clarisse at once to the Austrian Embassy
+with a remedy that Mdme. Richard of the Opera gave me. Francis was all
+right, his neck quite straight. After breakfast I had a last practice
+with him and Lecomte for the gavotte. I got in a small piano from Erard
+(my big one took up too much room behind the scenes) and then I
+dismissed the whole thing from my mind, and went to dress. I told the
+children to be there at 4.30 so as to begin the minute the Princess
+arrived. She said she would come at five.
+
+The little blue salon was a pretty sight when it was filled with all the
+children in costume. Thenard's Marquis looked too sweet--she had dressed
+the girl so well in satin coat, ruffles, and silk stockings, and
+enormous paste buckles on her shoes. She did her part perfectly--so
+easy, and such pretty French. The Princess came punctually with her two
+daughters, and the play began at once. I think there were about 100
+people--we couldn't seat any more as the stage took up a good deal of
+room. The prettiest scenes were the Trianon and the Market Place. In the
+Trianon, Marie Antoinette was seated surrounded by her ladies, and le
+Marquis telling them "les petites nouvelles de la cour." The child was
+killing when she took out her snuff-box and made flowery phrases. The
+Market was very well arranged with flowers and vegetables. Violet
+Freeman made a splendid old woman at one stall, and Hilda Deichmann did
+her boy's part very well. After the Queen had made her round (her voice
+came back, though she was rather hoarse still) she and her ladies
+retired a little to the background, where the Court made a brilliant
+group, while the peasants sang their chorus, "Vive la Reine." Then came
+the gavotte, which really went extremely well. Mrs. Roffy was breathless
+with recommendations until the last moment. Both chorus and gavotte were
+encored, and there was much applause when the curtain fell.
+
+[Illustration:
+Violet Freeman                     Francis Waddington
+A Comedy for Children at the French Embassy
+From a Photograph by Barker & Pragnell London]
+
+The Princess, who is always so gracious, asked me what I would like her
+to do, so I said if she would allow the whole troupe to defile before
+her I would name each one--and I knew it would give them great pleasure.
+She agreed at once, so the procession, headed by Marie Antoinette,
+passed, and the Princess shook hands with every one, talking a little to
+those she knew. They all applauded when Toupet, with his wig and cane,
+appeared. Then I named Mdmes. Thenard and Roffy--and I wish you could
+have seen those ladies' curtseys (Mdme. Roffy's particularly splendid),
+also St. Genys and Lecomte. The whole thing lasted a short hour, even
+with the repetition of chorus and gavotte. We had tea in the
+drawing-room--the children downstairs. The Princess told me she thought
+it charming--quite wonderful. The only two French children were Francis
+and the Marquis, but I must say I thought the others quite wonderful.
+When the Princess went away all the children assembled in the hall at
+the foot of the stairs, bowing and curtseying--and it was a pretty
+sight, such a mass of colour and flushed, eager little faces. The
+Princess told them all again how much she had enjoyed the performance,
+and it was quite a happy little crowd that dispersed soon afterward to
+their respective homes. W. complimented Thenard very much, who had given
+herself no end of trouble--also Mdme. de Langhe, who had undertaken the
+chorus. Some of the ladies were rather anxious we should repeat the
+performance for the benefit of some charity, but W. didn't like to have
+a paying thing at the Embassy; and at one of the public halls it would
+not have been very easy--some of the ladies objected.
+
+I dined at home, but went to a concert in the evening, and had various
+compliments for my troupe. The Prince of Wales told me that the Princess
+had told him it was quite charming. I think on the whole W. was pleased.
+He was rather doubtful about inviting the Princess--thought it was a
+little informal, and would bore her, but I don't think it did.
+
+    Tuesday, June 23, 1891.
+
+We have had various notices in the French papers of the comedie; generally
+"une bonne presse," but one or two of the very Republican papers expressed
+great surprise at such a _Royalist Demonstration_--couldn't imagine _why_
+we had chosen that particular chorus, "Vive la Reine," at an Embassy
+representing the French Republic!
+
+I am sorry you couldn't come over--all the repetitions would have amused
+you so much. Nothing was funnier than to see Francis always in a corner
+with some of the girls. Madame Campan (Elsa de Bille) had a long thing
+to say, and was most anxious to have the correct accent.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    July 8, 1891.
+
+I dined quietly with some of the personnel last night, and had Thekla
+Staal, as her mother and father had gone to Windsor for the State
+banquet for the German Emperor. Mdme. de Staal came in for a moment on
+her way home--she said it was very handsome, very well done, as it
+always is at Windsor, only they were all rather uncomfortable, as they
+went down from London by special train in full dress--diamonds and
+feathers--and when they arrived at the Castle they were asked to take
+off their wraps in the hall, no dressing-room of any kind provided. I
+don't know what my erratic hair would have looked like. Of course I
+couldn't go on account of my mourning.
+
+All London was on the "qui vive" this morning, as the German Emperor was
+to make his formal entry into London. I thought I wouldn't go in the
+carriage and take up a position, so Mrs. Edwardes suggested that I
+should go with her to Constitution Hill, where she had places, and see
+the Emperor pass there; so we started off on foot quite cheerfully, but
+as soon as we got outside the Park and wanted to cross the Square, we
+were confronted by lines of soldiers and policemen, who refused to let
+us pass. I explained who I was and that I was merely going to cross to
+Constitution Hill, but they evidently thought nothing of an Ambassadress
+in a simple black dress with neither equipage nor servants, and we were
+getting rather discouraged when I saw a Park-keeper who knew me, so he
+instantly went after one of the heads of the mounted police, who
+appeared, made way for us and accompanied us (he riding) across the
+Square. Some of our friends, who were looking on from windows in the
+houses opposite, were rather anxious--thought we had been arrested. We
+waited a little while and very soon the head of the procession appeared.
+We made ourselves as small as we could and squeezed close up to the
+gate, but the Horse Guards on their big, black horses came unpleasantly
+near and the least plunge or kick would have been disastrous. The Royal
+carriage passed quite close to us at a quick trot. The Emperor looked
+very wide-awake and soldierly in blue dragoon uniform; the Empress, tall
+and fair, in white, was seated next to him; the Prince of Wales and the
+Duke of Edinburgh on the front seat. There was not much enthusiasm, a
+few hats (not all) lifted. The Emperor saluted all the time,
+mechanically. When he saw me he leaned forward, smiled and bowed in
+evident recognition. I can't think how he knew me, standing there in a
+crowd of nursery-maids and children. He had seen me but twice before,
+and then in the evening in full dress. I suppose it is that
+extraordinary memory, instinct almost, that all Princes have, and which
+does them such good service. Everyone is pleased and flattered at being
+recognised by a Royalty. I was, too, just like all the rest. I wasn't
+mistaken in thinking he knew me. He told one of our secretaries at the
+reception at the Palace that he had seen Mdme. Waddington _standing_ in
+the crowd.
+
+Hilda came to dinner with Countess Eulenbourg (wife of the Master of
+Ceremonies of the German Court) and her boy. They were very late, as the
+Countess had been to Buckingham Palace to see the Empress. She said the
+confusion was something awful. She had great difficulty in getting in,
+was sent from pillar to post and finally the carriage was allowed to
+enter through the stable-yard. She was glad to have a quiet evening. Her
+husband was at the gala performance at the Opera with the Emperor and
+Empress. She spoke a great deal about the Emperor, said it was
+impossible to be with him without feeling what a strong personality he
+is; that what he felt was right and best for Germany he would certainly
+do--also that he would never shirk a responsibility, or put the blame on
+others if he made a mistake. It seems curious to be suddenly out of
+everything. W. is still in France[11] and of course our deep mourning
+makes all Court and gala things impossible for us. I think W. must come
+back before the Emperor goes and try to see him in a private audience,
+if nothing else can be arranged.
+
+[11] Where he had been summoned on account of the death of his mother.
+
+    Thursday, 9th.
+
+All the Corps Diplomatique were received this morning at Buckingham
+Palace--the men by the Emperor, the women by the Empress. Hatzfeldt
+presented the men. In W.'s absence, d'Estournelles represented the
+Embassy (with all the secretaries of course). As he was only Charge
+d'Affaires, he could not take W.'s place as Doyen at the head of the
+row--on the contrary, was quite at the end; after all the Ministers of
+the small Powers--however they made a little group apart. The Emperor
+talked a little while to d'Estournelles--regretted very much not seeing
+W.--knew that he was still in France, and told him to tell me that he
+had recognised me at once in the Park. He said a few words to each
+member of the Embassy. The ladies were presented by Mdme. de Staal--my
+young women told me she did it very well, passing down the line with the
+Empress and naming every one. They also found the Empress very gracious,
+saying something to each one--of course there is never any real
+conversation on such occasions, people are usually in a hurry and
+anxious to get through their _function_.
+
+This afternoon was the garden party at Marlborough House--Mdme.
+d'Estournelles and Florian came in afterward to tell me about it; also
+Mme. de Bille (wife of the Danish Minister), she is an American, nee
+Zabriskie. They said there was a great crowd, and such a hedge of loyal
+subjects around the Royalties that it was almost impossible to see them
+even. Princess of Monaco (nee Heine), who was with the Court (her
+husband being a "prince regnant," of a minute principality certainly),
+made a sign to Countess de Florian to come and speak to her, and she
+also had quite a talk with Princess Amelie of Schleswig Holstein, cousin
+of the German Emperor, whom she had known as a girl in Pau, when her
+father, Marquis de Nadaillac, was Prefet there. Staal came in late, and
+hopes that W. will come back (he is always such a good colleague). He
+thinks it will make a bad effect, the French Ambassador being the only
+one absent. He thinks he ought to come over for the breakfast at the
+Mansion House, which is strictly official, and where the Emperor will
+probably make a speech. I will write to him to-night and tell him what
+they all say.
+
+    Friday, July 10th.
+
+I rode this morning with Pontavice, the Military Attache, and just
+missed the Emperor, who was riding with six or seven officers, all in
+uniform, which seems strange, as the officers never wear uniform except
+when they are on duty. We sometimes see the officer of the day riding in
+the Row in uniform, but never any other. In Paris it is quite different;
+all the officers of the Paris garrison, which is a very large one,
+always ride in uniform in the Bois in the morning. I went to the War
+Office afterward to see the Emperor, Empress, and Prince and Princess
+pass on their way to the Lord Mayor's banquet. The display of troops was
+rather mesquin--the Grenadiers standing so far apart that there were
+groups of street boys in between. The Royalties were fairly applauded
+(the Prince and Princess are always whenever they appear). The Emperor
+was in a white uniform, but his helmet is so big and heavy and so low on
+his face that one could hardly see him. Francis and I dined quietly at
+the Russian Embassy, and the Staals told us all about the various fetes.
+They said the getting away from the Mansion House was awful--when the
+gentlemen of the household were trying to make a passage for the
+Princess of Wales there was a general skirmish, one of the ladies of the
+Corps Diplomatique was struck on the shoulder by one of the gentlemen,
+and there was a fine row--the husband of the lady furious, the
+unfortunate equerry protesting, saying he was incapable of such an
+enormity, etc. However, excuses were made and peace restored.
+
+    Saturday, July 11th.
+
+I rode this morning with Pontavice, and we met the Emperor, also riding,
+several times; but he did _not_ recognise me this time in my habit. He
+had six or seven officers with him and two grooms. All the officers, the
+Emperor also, in uniform, and wearing those long German sabres that hang
+loose and make a great clatter. They all rode at a gallop and set all
+the horses in the Row by the ears. I really had some trouble with my
+quiet animal, who was jumping and kicking all over the place. I had
+several visits at tea-time. My windows and balconies giving on the Park
+are most attractive, as there are quantities of people about--a sort of
+general excitement in the air, and royal carriages and soldiers passing
+all the time. D'Estournelles came in and told me about the review. He
+said the troops looked splendid, but the arrangements were very bad--no
+seats reserved--he and his wife and many ladies standing all the time.
+Mme. d'Estournelles was dead tired and had gone home to bed. W. came
+back for dinner; he looks grave and sad. We sat on the balcony after
+dinner while he smoked. He said he must go to the luncheon at Hatfield
+for the Emperor and Empress. As long as he was Ambassador, he had no
+right to let any private grief prevent his taking part in a public
+function, particularly in this case, when his absence might be
+misconstrued.
+
+    Sunday, July 18th.
+
+I went this afternoon to consult some of my colleagues about my dress
+for Hatfield. Of course I am in deep mourning, and I didn't know if I
+could meet Royalties in black. At some Courts, Russia for instance,
+black is not allowed--when people are in mourning they wear white. After
+various consultations, I decided that I would go in my black dress; so I
+have had some lace put on top of the flounce of "crepon de laine," which
+is really very deep mourning.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    Tuesday, July 19, 1891.
+
+We had a most interesting day at Hatfield, and evidently we were right
+in going. We went down by a special, W. in deep mourning, I in my black
+crepon, my big pearls in my ears and around my neck, a little crepe
+bonnet (with a soupcon of jet) and an ordinary dotted tulle veil. All
+our colleagues were most empresses and nice--said it had been so strange
+not to see either of us at any of the fetes. There were, as usual, a
+certain number of young men, sons of the house, secretaries, etc., at
+the station at Hatfield; plenty of carriages, and in a few minutes we
+were at the house. We passed straight through the rooms to the terrace,
+where a very smart company was assembled. Some of the young women in
+white satin and lace, high bodices of course, all very much dressed, and
+all with necklaces and jewels on their corsages. No one in particular
+received us. Lady Salisbury was driving with the Empress, Lord Salisbury
+talking with the Prince of Wales, and the Emperor riding. (The
+Salisburys had an enormous house party, all arrived the night before for
+dinner--the Emperor and Empress with their suite, also the Prince and
+Princess and theirs.) I was strolling about the terrace with Countess
+Deym when we came suddenly upon the Princess of Wales, walking about
+with her "Kodak" and looking about 25 in her simple grey foulard and big
+black hat. As we went up to speak to her, she made us a sign to stop,
+saying "I want you in my picture." We talked to her a little while and
+then she said she must go and make herself "smart" for the lunch-party.
+There was still some time before there was any sign of Princes--or
+lunch. Mr. Barrington asked us to stand near the perron, as he had
+charge of the placing of the people. The Emperor and Empress appeared
+first, and immediately made a sort of cercle. Lady Salisbury presented
+me at once to the Empress, and she was most amiable, regretted not
+having seen me at the reception at Buckingham Palace, adding, "J'ai vu
+toutes vos jeunes femmes, plus jolies les unes que les autres." The
+Emperor, too, was easy and pleasant, but so many people were brought up
+to him all the time that he couldn't talk much. It was interesting to
+watch him. He was of course _the_ central figure, and there is always a
+certain curiosity as to what he will do. He holds himself very straight,
+has a stern face and rather a stiff manner, not particularly gracious,
+speaks English of course perfectly well (in fact looks like an
+Englishman, particularly in ordinary dress--of course the uniform
+changes him a little). I think he knew about everybody who was presented
+to him; soldiers, statesmen, artists, and seemed to be interested in the
+very short talks he had with each one. He and W. had quite a talk, and
+he again expressed his regret at not having seen him before, and also
+for the cause which had kept him away. The Prince and Princess stood
+about on the terrace while all the presentations were going on, talking
+to their friends. After about half an hour there was a move to the great
+dining-hall. I think there were about 150 guests. The Royalties and
+swells lunched in the great hall at small tables of ten, and the others
+in the ordinary dining-room. I was at Lord Salisbury's table, who took
+in the Empress; the Prince took me; Hatzfeldt (German Ambassador) Mdme.
+de Staal; Rustem (Turkish Ambassador) Princess Maud; Soveral (Portuguese
+Minister) Countess Spencer. At Lady Salisbury's table were the Emperor,
+Princess, Staal, W., etc. The talk was fairly easy at our
+table--Hatzfeldt said to me rather pointedly, "Je suis tres heureux de
+vous voir ici aujourd'hui, Madame Waddington." The Prince also said we
+were quite right to come. I said I thought my plain black dress was
+rather out of place at such a brilliant entertainment, but he assured me
+it was quite correct.
+
+About half way through luncheon came the pearl necklace incident (which
+you saw in the papers). I suddenly felt that my necklace was unclasped.
+It was sewed on the corsage in front, as the pearls are large and heavy,
+and I am always afraid of breaking the string. I asked Soveral, who was
+next to me, if he couldn't clasp it for me. He tried, but was nervous or
+awkward; at any rate couldn't manage it, and we were both getting red
+and flustered when suddenly we heard the Emperor from his table calling
+W.'s attention to the fact that "le Portugal etait en train d'etrangler
+la France"; also Staal, saying that his "Collegue du Portugal se livrait
+a une gymnastique etrange." They all made various jokes at my expense,
+and the Prince said "Let me do it," but he couldn't either, and again we
+heard the Emperor remarking, "Maintenant c'est plus serieux--l'Angleterre
+s'en mele." W., who had his back to me and who couldn't see what was going
+on, was decidedly mystified, and wondered what on earth I was doing to
+attract so much attention, in fact was rather annoyed. When we got up from
+table the Prince and I retreated to a corner of the terrace, and he cut the
+stitches that held the necklace in front with his knife (which again looked
+funny to the people assembled on the terrace). He advised me to put the
+pearls, _not_ in my pocket, but in a safe place, as they were very
+handsome, so I put them _inside_ my dress. Of course everybody asked me
+what had happened, and what the Emperor was saying to me from the other
+table. I asked the Empress if she was never afraid of losing her pearls,
+but she said all her jewels were most carefully sewn on and strung on a
+very thick string or sort of silk cord.
+
+Very soon after lunch the Emperor and Empress left, as they were
+starting in the evening for Germany, and had to go to Windsor to take
+leave of the Queen. The Prince and Princess followed quickly, and then,
+of course, all of us. W. had again a talk with the Emperor, and all his
+colleagues told him he was quite right to come. Any little incident
+between France and Germany always assumes gigantic proportions, and the
+papers, both French and German, would have been full of the _marked_
+absence of the French Ambassador from all the fetes for the Emperor; his
+mourning a pretext, etc. It was a beautiful entertainment--bright,
+perfect summer day, quantities of pretty women beautifully dressed (a
+great many in white) and representative people of all kinds. The general
+impression was that the Emperor was not a lady's man--he evidently
+preferred talking to army and political men. My talk with him was so
+perfectly banal that I can scarcely have an opinion, but I should think
+one might talk to him easily. His face is certainly stern, and the
+manner very cold, but his smile, like the Queen's, lights up and softens
+the face. I said to one of the pretty young women who had made a
+luncheon-party for him, that I had heard that it was beautifully done,
+and that he was much pleased. She said she hoped he was, that as far as
+she personally was concerned he hadn't the slightest idea whether she
+was 25 or 50.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #London#,
+    January 12, 1892.
+
+W. and I came over yesterday in a snowstorm. It was beastly getting out
+of the train and on the boat at Calais. I am rather depressed, having
+left Francis behind at a professor's near the Lycee Janson, to follow
+the cours there as externe. I shall miss him frightfully, but it was
+quite time for him to go to France and go through the regular course. He
+was forgetting his French here. Of course he and his father always speak
+French to each other, but he went to a little English school, Miss
+Quirim's, in Sloane Street (where there were quantities of little
+friends beginning their education), played all day with English
+children, heard nothing else spoken around him, and was rapidly becoming
+an Englishman. The house seems dreadfully quiet without him, and poor
+little Bonny, the fox-terrier, is miserable. He couldn't think why he
+wasn't with us to-day on our journey and galloped up to his room as soon
+as he arrived at the Embassy, asking everybody really with his eyes
+where his master was. Florian came in at once to see us, and told us
+that the Duke of Clarence was frightfully ill at Sandringham. He always
+looked rather delicate, tall and slight and colourless, but I hope his
+youth will pull him through. He had been rather more en evidence these
+last months since his engagement to Princess May, daughter of Princess
+Mary, Duchess of Teck. I think it is a marriage that pleases the nation.
+Princess May is young and pretty, with a pretty figure and essentially
+English--born and brought up in the country. Everybody adores her
+mother, Princess Mary, and I think it will be a very happy marriage.
+
+    January 13, 1892.
+
+I am afraid there is no chance for the poor young Prince. Florian came
+in for a moment, just back from Marlborough House, where the bulletins
+are posted twice a day. There were crowds of people reading them and
+trying to get some detailed information. Florian saw one of the
+equerries, who told him there was no hope, he was sinking fast and would
+probably not live through the night. He told him the Princess never left
+him and was heart-broken, her eldest boy. It is hard for her. They seem
+to think it was a neglected cold, caught out shooting, and not taken in
+time. All the personnel came in to see me and brought their New Year's
+present--4 pretty corbeilles for bonbons. They always give me something
+New Year's Day and I am much pleased to have the souvenirs. I can hardly
+realise that we have been here nearly 9 years. We came in '83 and
+thought we should stay perhaps two years. I am so accustomed to the life
+now that I feel as if I had always spent half the year in England and
+the other half in France. I suppose I shall miss a great many things
+when we retire into private life, perhaps most of all the family life
+with all the personnel of the Embassy. We have had various changes, of
+course, but I generally pull well with them all, and I must say they are
+always ready to help me in every way. I haven't had too many women,
+which is pleasant; women are much more complicated to deal with than
+men--there are always so many small jealousies and rivalries.
+
+    Thursday, January 14, 1892.
+
+The poor young Duke is dead at 9 o'clock this morning, in spite of all
+that tender nursing and skill could do. He had not strength to fight
+against the malady. It is awfully hard at his age and in his position;
+just now, too, when his marriage was so popular. Florian came at once to
+tell us, and said there was such a crowd outside Marlborough House that
+he could hardly get through into the court, where the policeman showed
+him the Prince of Wales's telegram, "All is over." We had various visits
+at tea-time; Deym among others, who had done just what we did--sent
+telegrams to the Prince and Princess and the Tecks at Sandringham. He
+told me he had dined at White Lodge with the Tecks on Christmas Eve (for
+their Christmas tree) and that they were all so happy. Princess Mary
+took him upstairs and showed him all the presents--coupons of velvet,
+brocade, etc., for dresses, also the wedding dress, and said to him, "Je
+suis si heureuse que j'en ai peur." Poor thing; perhaps it was a
+presentiment. I am awfully sorry for them, for her perhaps more than for
+Princess May, who is young and must of course get over it, as youth
+happily is elastic and rebounds; but Princess Mary is different. She has
+her share of worries and disappointments, and she was so happy and proud
+of the marriage. It must be an awful blow to her.
+
+    Sunday, January 19, 1892.
+
+I went to the little church behind the Embassy this morning and am very
+sorry now that I didn't go to St. Paul's, where there was a fine
+service--the organ playing the Dead March in Saul, and all the
+congregation standing, a good many women crying, all in black. It was
+impressive in the little church--everyone in black. There is a general
+mourning ordered for three weeks, and Court mourning for six (which is a
+shorter time than I thought). (I send on a sheet apart what I would like
+you to order for me. I have nothing black but my black satin evening
+dress, which fortunately is all black, no white, lace, or colour). They
+sang the funeral hymn "Labourer, thy work is o'er," the first time I had
+ever heard it, and beautiful it was; read the prayer for the "Royal
+Family in affliction," and one for the influenza--which surprised me, as
+I should not have thought the epidemic was bad enough for that. The
+sermon, of course, was all about Prince Eddie and the young life cut
+short. It was very simple and earnest and the congregation certainly
+felt and showed great sympathy. I went for a short turn in the Park
+afterward and walked about a little with Henry Edwardes and his
+children. He is rather down, poor fellow, as his conge drags on and they
+seem in no hurry at the Foreign Office to give him another post. I
+believe he didn't get on very well with his last chief, and of course
+all chiefs are not commodes, but equally of course when there comes a
+question the secretary is _always_ in the wrong. Edwardes is very clever
+and cultivated. W. thinks him an excellent agent. In Paris he always
+knew what was going on, and knew so many people of all kinds.
+
+This afternoon I had my usual Sunday visits--principally diplomatists
+this time, and all talking about Prince Eddie's funeral. It seems a pity
+they don't make a grand military funeral, the procession passing through
+London. There was such a striking outburst of sympathy and loyalty when
+his death was announced that the people would have been glad to
+associate themselves with the last rites. They don't invite all the
+Chefs de Mission to the funeral at Windsor (which also seems strange,
+Prince Eddie being the heir), merely those of the "Cours apparentees."
+That will take in Hatzfeldt, German Ambassador; Staal, Russian; de
+Bille, Danish Minister; Gennadius, Greece; Soveral, Portugese; and
+Solvyns, Belgian. All the others go to a special service at St. James's
+Chapel, in uniform.
+
+    Wednesday, January 20, 1892.
+
+To-day is the funeral. Our flag is half-mast, and all the windows shut
+in the drawing-rooms. It is mild and damp, but not cold. Mdme. de
+Florian and I have been driving about this afternoon to have an
+impression of the streets. All the shops are shut, blinds down in all
+the houses, flags at half-mast, and everyone in black. Some of the
+hansom cab drivers with bits of black ribbon or stuff on their whips,
+and everybody looks grave. I can't help thinking it was a pity not to
+let the people participate in the mourning and feel they were taking
+some part. In these days of democracy one should take any chance of
+strengthening the feeling of loyalty. W. went off in uniform, with crepe
+on sleeve and sword hilt, at 3, to the service at the Chapel Royal, St.
+James's, which seems to have been rather mild. The diplomatists (4
+Ambassadors), Chefs de Mission, were received by Mr. Eric Barrington,
+Lord Salisbury's secretary; Mr. Thomas Sanderson, and Colonel Chaine.
+
+W. dined in the evening with Hilda, to meet Count Seckendorff and Buelow,
+who had come over from Germany to the funeral. They said the service was
+very simple and impressive, and that the Prince of Wales and Prince
+George looked badly, the Prince of Wales much agitated. Seckendorff said
+he could just manage to speak to them when they all filed past him after
+the ceremony. The Princesses were all in the chapel in a sort of
+gallery. Quite at the end the Prince stepped forward and laid a white
+wreath (given by Princess May) on the coffin.
+
+    Saturday, January 30, 1892.
+
+It is still very mild and damp, rather dismal weather, and the streets
+are depressing, everyone in black--the mourning is very general, not at
+all confined to the fashionable world. Mdme. de Florian and I drove out
+to White Lodge, and cheerless it looked, so lonely and sad with the
+black winter trees all around the house. We did not see either of the
+Princesses; they were in London, but Teck came out to speak to us. I
+never saw him appear so well--he was so simple and distressed for his
+daughter. He said she was very quiet, but perfectly heart-broken, and
+that he had always had a presentiment that something would
+happen--everything had gone too smoothly. He said the coming back there
+after the funeral was something too awful--all the wedding presents and
+stuffs and laces scattered about the rooms--letters and telegrams of
+congratulation, bouquets of white flowers, in fact all the preparations
+for a wedding; and at the same time people waiting to try on
+mourning--telegrams of condolence, etc. What a tragedy! He said he had
+no hope from the first. Prince Eddie was struck down at once, and he
+didn't think the Princess of Wales ever had a gleam of hope. She never
+left her boy until all was over.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    Wednesday, February 10, 1892.
+
+I went as usual to have tea with the Countess de Bylandt this afternoon,
+who receives always Wednesday. She always has plenty of people and one
+has a pleasant hour. She was worried about her husband to-day, who is
+ill. He is not very young and I should think has always been delicate.
+He is Dutch Minister, and has been here for years. She is a Russian
+born, very clever and amusing. We dined with Baron Gevers, Dutch
+Secretary, at the new restaurant or club, l'Amphytrion, which is
+supposed to be the best and dearest in London. It is kept by Emile, a
+well-known Parisian. We were a _young_ party, the Florians, St. Genys,
+and the Lataings (Belgian Legation). The dinner was excellent,
+certainly--Emile knew that his Ambassador was coming and had done his
+best. He was always hovering about the table to see that all was right,
+and we complimented him very much on the way everything was cooked and
+served. I said to him that he had very good material in London to work
+upon, to which he replied, with magnificent contempt for anything that
+was not French--"Il n'y a pas de marche a Londres, je fais venir tout de
+Paris." When one thinks of Covent Garden, with its piles of splendid
+salmon, haunches of venison, hot-house fruits, grapes, pine-apples, and
+_primeurs_ of all kinds, the answer was amusing. We went upstairs for
+coffee and cigarettes and had a very pleasant evening. It is so good for
+W. to be with young people occasionally. He talked a great deal, and the
+young men were interested in some of his Cambridge reminiscences.
+
+    Thursday, February 11, 1892.
+
+It is still quite mild. After breakfast I went with Hilda to the British
+Museum to hear a young Oxonian lady lecture on Greek Antiquities and the
+Eleusinian Mysteries. She did it very easily--a pretty, cultivated voice
+and very distinct pronunciation. The lecture lasted about an hour. She
+had all sorts of photographs of bas-reliefs, statues, paintings, etc.,
+and it was very interesting, much more so than I expected, as Greek
+antiquities are not much in my line. After the lecture was over, Mr.
+Thomson, the director of the Museum (a charming man), came to get us and
+showed us as much as we could see before 4, when it gets dark and the
+Museum is shut. The reading-room and library are enormous, and for
+London very light. The collection of missals, autographs, etc., is
+splendid. Some of the old, old missals so beautiful still, the colours
+so wonderfully preserved. We went to Mr. Thomson's room in the Museum
+building for tea. His daughter was there and gave us very good tea and
+muffins. Altogether we had a most interesting afternoon. We dined with
+Mrs. Mitford (widow of Percy Mitford, diplomatist). She has a very
+pretty and original house and is a very easy hostess, having lived much
+abroad. She is a great friend of Princess Mary and told me I ought to go
+and see her. Mr. Lincoln, the American Minister, was there, and we all
+teased him about the Presidential election (the papers say he is to be
+the next President). Mdme. de Bille and I told him we were racking our
+brains to think what we could ask him for our friends at home when he
+would be at the White House. He assured us there was no possible chance
+of it, and no one would be as sorry as he himself if ever the thing came
+to pass. It certainly would be difficult to be a second President
+Lincoln.
+
+    Friday, February 19, 1892.
+
+It is still very cold, snow lying on the ground (in the parks), which is
+rare in London. I have just had a little note from Princess Mary, asking
+me to come and see her on Sunday at White Lodge, as she leaves early in
+the week for the Riviera. Wolff came in late to ask me if I would take
+him out to White Lodge, as Princess Mary had also written to him to
+come. He had his violin, so he played for about an hour, and most
+enchanting it was. I occasionally forgot about the accompaniment,
+listening to his beautiful long notes. He didn't mind, was standing in
+the middle of the room (playing by heart) and went on quite serenely
+until I caught him up somewhere and went on again. I dined quietly with
+Jean (as W. had a man's dinner at one of the clubs) and we made music
+all the evening. She is very busy translating a German book, Lady
+Blennerhasset's "Life of Madame de Stael." It looked easy at first, but
+I fancy is rather a formidable undertaking, as Lady B. has a very
+distinct style--very German, and I should think it must lose in
+translation. She had rather come to grief over one page. I looked over
+it, and said I didn't find it _very_ difficult, and I know German well,
+upon which she replied, "Please read it out to me, then, in good
+English." I began, but came to grief at once. I had got the meaning
+right enough in my head, but couldn't at all express it at once in
+correct or fluent English, and I don't know that a dictionary would have
+helped me much. It was more the turn of the phrase and a peculiar form
+of expression.
+
+    Sunday, February 21, 1892.
+
+It is very mild to-day--a complete thaw. Wolff came to breakfast, also
+Mdme. de Florian, and we drove out to White Lodge for tea. It was
+pleasant enough driving, as there was no wind, but the park and place
+looked dreary. I had always seen it so gay, with so many young people
+about, that I could hardly realise that it was the same house. We were
+expected--two or three footmen in deep mourning were at the door and
+took us at once to the drawing-room. In a few minutes the three
+appeared: father, mother, and daughter. I was rather nervous, but they
+were so natural, it was such real grief, that we felt quite at our ease,
+and so sorry for them all. Princess May looked lovely. She has grown
+much thinner, and the long black dress covered with crepe, with the
+white collar and cuffs (that all widows wear in England), was most
+becoming. Her complexion was beautiful, so delicate, and her eyes had
+that peculiar bright look that one sees in people who have cried a great
+deal. Before tea I had a long talk with Princess Mary, who said that it
+all seemed a dream--the first days at White Lodge, when the young couple
+were so happy, making all sorts of plans, for their future seemed so
+bright and brilliant; so convinced that long years of happiness and
+usefulness were before them that she was frightened sometimes, and used
+to tell them that there would be great cares and responsibilities in
+their position, and that they must both help each other as much as they
+could (she said Prince Eddie was naturally timid, and rather disposed to
+underrate his intelligence). Then came the sudden change. Those terrible
+days at Sandringham, where she hoped against hope, and then the coming
+back to White Lodge, which must have been heart-breaking. I only said a
+few words to Princess May as we were going away, but Mdme. de Florian
+had some talk with her. She said she felt stunned--could hardly believe
+that all was over, but that she must try and take up her life again. "It
+will be very hard; I suppose I was too happy."
+
+They are starting at once for the South, and I hope it will do her good.
+Various people came in, among others Mrs. Mitford, who is a devoted
+friend of the Tecks, and so sorry for them. She said it was melancholy
+to see them the first days after they got back to White Lodge. All the
+presents had to be put away or sent back; all the letters and telegrams
+sorted and put away, and that Princess May moved about like a ghost.
+
+We had a quiet evening until some late telegrams came announcing a
+Ministerial crisis in France, for nothing apparently. W. and his
+secretaries were disgusted. There are so many changes in France, and we
+never know who is coming to the Foreign Office. I think it is time for
+us to go back. We have been away a long time, and it isn't good for a
+man to live too much out of his own country.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Wednesday, February 24, 1892.
+
+It is very cold and foggy this morning, impossible to ride; we see all
+the grooms exercising the saddle horses in the Park. I went for tea as
+usual to Mdme. de Bylandt. He is still in his bed, and very bad I
+imagine. This evening we have been to "Venice," the great show at
+Olympia. We went a family party (Embassy), Florians, St. Genys,
+Pontavice, d'Agoult. It is really very prettily done; you must see it
+when you come over. We had a capital box directly in the centre of the
+house, but the director, hearing we were there, came to pay us a visit,
+and transferred us to the Royal box, which is very large and
+comfortable--seats twenty people easily. He sent us some ices, and said
+he would have two gondolas waiting at the end of the performance to take
+us through the lagoons. The performance was a sort of ballet--very
+pretty girls well got up in Venetian costume, very artistically grouped,
+and quantities of colour. As soon as it was over we went down to the
+"Canal," where we found two gondolas, the real thing, with Venetian
+gondoliers, who were much pleased when I spoke Italian to them. We went
+all around the show, passing under the Bridge of Sighs, and finally
+wound up at a Neapolitan cafe, where they were playing and singing all
+the well-known Italian songs, "Santa Lucia," "Bella Napoli," etc.
+Florian of course found a friend, one of the singers, who recognised
+him, having seen him in Rome when she was singing there; so of course we
+all fraternised, and we stayed there some time listening to all the
+familiar songs and accompaniment of guitar and mandoline. We had quite
+the impression of having spent our evening in Italy. W. was much amused
+when we told him of Florian's "connaissance," as he always says he knows
+more people than anyone he has ever seen, and is related to half France.
+He is always going to some cousin's funeral in Paris. French people are
+so particular about funerals--never fail to pay that last respect to
+their dead friends; also wear mourning much more than we do. They are
+constantly in real mourning (not merely fancy black) for three weeks or
+a month, for a very distant cousin.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Monday, March 9, 1892.
+
+It is cold and snowing, not a very pleasant day for our excursion to
+Herkomer's studio, in the country; however, I had a line from Hilda
+saying they were quite willing to go if I didn't mind the weather, so I
+consulted with Lecomte, one of the secretaries who was going with us,
+and we thought we would go. It would be very difficult for me to find
+another day, as London is filling up for its avant-saison, and we have
+quantities of engagements. We met the Deichmanns at the station, and
+there discovered that we had 40 minutes to wait, so we breakfasted there
+in the big dining-room, and it wasn't bad at all. Deichmann knows
+everybody and is well known at Euston--so thanks to him we had a really
+excellent breakfast (and it turned out very well, as we only got to
+Herkomer's for tea, and we should have been half starved). We had about
+three-quarters of an hour by rail to our destination, Bushey, in the
+county of Herts. It was bright and beautiful when we got to the station,
+but the trees were white with frost and snow everywhere. We found our
+host in a temporary installation. He is building himself an enormous
+castle, and all the work, stone-cutting, wood-carving, painting, etc.,
+is done on the spot by his pupils, Herkomer himself superintending and
+directing everything. He is most interesting; full of all sorts of
+knowledge and fancies. We went over the studios and saw everything. Some
+dull red wood they were using came from America he told me--I forget the
+name of the tree, I think a Californian. It would have amused you to see
+the eager, intelligent faces of the young workmen, especially when
+Herkomer was going about explaining his ideas and criticising or
+encouraging. It reminded me rather of an evening at Wilhelmj's (the
+great violinist) long ago in Germany. He had a villa near my
+sister-in-law's, Mdme. Charles de Bunsen, at Mosbach, near
+Biebrich-am-Rhein. We all went over there one night to a musical party
+when I was staying with my sister. His house was most artistically
+arranged, all "Alt Deutsch," with an enormous music-room. He was waiting
+for us there surrounded by all his pupils, about 10, with their violins
+and music-stands, and all looking so eager and anxious to begin. He
+played himself quite beautifully, and when he was accompanied by all the
+others it was a very pretty sight, he in the middle and all the young
+ones around him with their eyes fixed on him. He was one of Wagner's
+right-hand men and played often with him. They played among other things
+the prelude of "Parsifal," which haunted me for days afterward. You
+can't imagine anything more divine than those beautiful long notes of
+his and the soft arpeggio accompaniments of the violins. I couldn't hear
+anything else afterward. Someone asked him to play Schubert's "Ave
+Maria," which he did of course beautifully, but it sounded so tame after
+the other, which I told him; but he said I was quite wrong, that
+Schubert had written beautiful things, so melodious. All the same, I
+would have preferred remaining with the impression of that wonderful
+prelude. What reminded me of all this was the same sort of
+cadre--"Maitre et apprentis," for Herkomer is quite the old-fashioned
+embodiment of the "Master" with his pupils. We had tea in the studio,
+where there were some fine portraits. I think I like his men better than
+his women. It is so difficult to make an interesting picture of a man in
+ordinary everyday dress. Herkomer has certainly succeeded in making some
+wonderful pictures, without uniform, or costume, or colour of any kind
+to appeal to the imagination. We got back late for dinner. I was rather
+tired and cold after my long day--we had started early, and I persuaded
+W. with some difficulty to go to Lord Salisbury's reception without me.
+However, he rather enjoyed himself. He didn't get much farther than the
+door, where he remained talking with Lady Salisbury, which he always
+likes. I don't think he was away more than an hour.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    March 28, 1892.
+
+We had a nice canter this morning. There were a good many people out. We
+had a pleasant dinner last night at Lady Winifred Gardner's, one of
+those curious mixtures one only sees in London. The Brownlows, Lord
+Carrington, Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, Hare the actor and his wife, also
+various stray men. I found Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone both much
+changed--much older--but he is marvellous--talked, eat, and drank like a
+man of 50. Hare talked a great deal, and a great deal to W., who found
+him clever and original.
+
+    Wednesday, 30th.
+
+Well, my Dear, I opened my bazaar yesterday, and you will be surprised
+to hear that I was rather nervous--only for one moment, I must say, when
+they asked me, after one or two speeches and a little "Marseillaise," if
+I would pronounce the sacramental phrase and declare the bazaar open. I,
+with the committee, was seated in a red chair on the platform. When I
+got up (the only person standing) and saw the crowd of faces beneath me
+looking hard at me, for a moment I was shy, but that didn't last. They
+all cheered me, so I recovered myself and made my statement, I think in
+a clear voice. W. jibed at me well afterward when I told him. I made a
+tour of the bazaar, buying something at each stall, Lecomte bringing up
+the rear, carrying a large doll. Do you remember what Lasteyrie used to
+say when he was W.'s Chef de Cabinet at l'Instruction Publique--that one
+of his principal functions was to accompany Madame Waddington to all the
+"Ventes de Charite" carrying a "paquet de chemises de femme," which
+means that I get so tired of all the fancy boxes, and pin-cushions, and
+screens I accumulate at the various sales that I finally asked for
+"layettes" and "vetements de pauvres." Of course I can never have too
+many in the country. I was amused to hear one of my friends here who
+collects for the numerous "guilds" dilate upon the _smallness_ of the
+objects sent her. She says she receives dresses and "brassieres" (a sort
+of body with sleeves) that would go on _no_ child of any age that she
+has ever seen. It is rather my own experience--people usually give me
+very minute garments, also in the most delicate colours, and my children
+work in the fields and at the "tourbieres."
+
+After we had visited all the stalls we had tea (not in a private room)
+at a round table at one end of the hall near the buffet. M. Dupoutet de
+la Harpe, the Protestant pasteur who got up the bazaar, explaining that
+the people would so like to see us. I am always very dressy on those
+occasions, so I was dressed in black satin with a great deal of jet, and
+light blue feathers in my bonnet. I had just time to get home, have some
+tea, and see that my "orgue Mustel" had arrived and was properly placed
+and tuned to go with the piano, and to assist at a small rehearsal with
+M. Guillemain (organist at La Trinite in Paris), for whom I am having a
+dinner to-night, Merindol, and Miss Stuart, an American girl who has a
+fine voice. The "orgue Mustel" is small and looks like a harmonium, but
+it has wonderful tones, particularly when played by a master hand like
+Guillemain's.
+
+My dinner interested _me_ very much--I hope the guests had the same
+impression. I called it my "dinner of organists," and I tried to get as
+many of the great English organists as possible, but only two came (the
+notice was short), Dr. Stainer of St. Paul's and Dr. Bridge of
+Westminster Abbey. Both have splendid instruments, and it is a great
+pleasure to stay sometimes after a week-day service and hear a fugue
+rolling through those great vaulted aisles. I had only asked musical
+people, and warned them that it was _serious_. We were 24 at dinner, and
+about 100 in the evening. The music was in the ballroom and the organ
+sounded very well, quite a volume of sound. Guillemain played, of
+course, beautifully and made it give all it could. The duos, organ and
+piano, were charming. Miss Stuart sang very well. I found Dr. Bridge
+most sympathetic. He and Florence Williams made great friends, and he
+promised to play her a gavotte whenever she likes if she would dance. I
+think you would have liked the evening--it wasn't banal. Staal was
+sympathetic and interested, and asked me what was the next original
+entertainment I was contemplating.
+
+    Wednesday, 31st.
+
+We have rather a worrying letter from Henrietta this morning saying
+their house in Paris was watched by the police, having been threatened
+by the dynamiters on account of a judge who lives in the house. All the
+locataires are leaving, and she is bothered, and wants to know what she
+must do with Francis (who always goes to her Thursday and Sunday). I
+want W. to write to the Prefet de Police to ask for an extra man, but he
+doesn't seem to attach importance to it--says no harm ever comes when a
+thing is announced beforehand. I can't help feeling uncomfortable.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S_.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    April 3, 1892.
+
+It is rather nice to-day. After breakfast we drove down to Battersea
+Park, not a very fashionable resort, and walked about along the river,
+which is always alive--boats, barges, steamers, children in battered old
+scows that look as if they would break in two on the smallest
+provocation, and loungers of all kinds, some fishing, most doing nothing
+and keeping up a running fire of chaff and criticisms. The river life
+plays a great part in London--the Thames is such a thoroughfare all
+about London, and a beautiful pleasure ground higher up by Maidenhead,
+Clieveden, etc. We dined this evening at Lady Mary Lloyd's. She sang
+very well after dinner, and we went later to Lady Ashburton's, who has a
+beautiful house crammed with pictures and curios of all kinds. She had a
+concert of "old music" with old instruments--spinet, viola, viol
+d'amour, etc. It was interesting in its way as a souvenir, but sounded
+weak and _tinkly_. In these days of great orchestras no one would listen
+to it.
+
+    Easter Tuesday, April 19, 1892.
+
+I am delighted to have Henrietta and Francis, the boy's first holidays
+since he has been in Paris, and he is enjoying himself extremely. He
+rides with his father every morning, and goes about all day with his
+friends. We are busy getting up a "toy symphony"--Mlle. Levisohn,
+Francis's piano mistress, organises it. Francis has the piano, Comte
+Vinci, our Roman friend (who plays extremely well), is first violin; a
+little boy, a friend of Mlle. Levisohn's, the 2nd, and the minor
+instruments are distributed among all the children, Edwardes, Lawrence,
+Billes, Deichmann, etc. We gave young Bille, son of the Danish Minister,
+the drum--but the unfortunate boy could do nothing with it, and his
+mother said he must have some lessons. I applied to Pontavice (our
+Military Attache), who said he was sure one of his friends, an officer
+in the Guards, would arrange it for me, so accordingly there appeared
+one morning a gentleman (Mr. Lloyd, I think) who said his friend, Comte
+de Pontavice, had told him that I wished to have some lessons on the
+drum, and that the drum-major of the regiment was quite at my service. I
+hastily explained that the lessons were not for me, but for a young
+friend who was to play that instrument in a toy symphony. He didn't seem
+at all surprised at my wishing to learn to play the drum, and yet I
+can't help thinking that he hadn't often been applied to for lessons on
+the drum for an Ambassadress. He promised to send his man to the Danish
+Legation, and Mdme. de Bille told me that all the household was upset,
+and the maids distracted by the magnificent drum-major who came three or
+four times, and retired to a sort of basement, where he and the boy
+rattled away on the drum. If I had ever imagined what an undertaking it
+was, I never should have agreed to the performance. The principal
+instruments, piano and violins, were all right, but all the small ones,
+quails, nightingales, and cuckoos (oh, the cuckoos!) were something
+awful. The children distracted (sometimes they had 25 measures to
+count), the mammas and governesses equally so, and the impartial
+assistants (who had no children taking part) remarking to me with
+absolute frankness that it was the most awful noise they had ever heard.
+Comte Vinci, first violin, was a tower of strength, and kept them all in
+order. It is awfully good of him to come and play with all those
+children.
+
+    Friday, April 22, 1892.
+
+I will write you about the performance at once, as I am too tired to do
+anything else, and have dined quietly at home. We had a last repetition
+this morning--Mlle. Levisohn directing from a small platform covered
+with red cloth. For the first time I thought it would go--really almost
+all the instruments were in tune and in time. Francis had been giving
+private rehearsals all the morning to Wilhelm Deichmann (trumpet) and
+the child, I forget which one, that had the triangle. The performance
+began at 4, and the orchestra was most effective. All the young ladies
+were in white and the men in dress clothes and white boutonnieres. It
+was killing to see all eyes fixed upon Mlle. Levisohn as she stood on
+her platform with her baton raised. It really went extremely well.
+Pfeffer happened in, and said he had never heard the Romberg Symphony
+better given. After the music was over Francis and Hilda Deichmann
+played a little comedy, "La Souris," really very well--Mdme. Thenard had
+coached them both. They weren't at all shy, and looked funny perched on
+chairs, standing, afraid of an imaginary mouse. They wound up with a
+dance, Gevers leading a most spirited cotillon. Francis danced with
+Nannie, who looked very pretty. He was very proud of his American
+cousin. Mlle. Levisohn had many compliments, and I think she was
+pleased. She certainly took no end of trouble.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Thursday, April 28th.
+
+I had a nice ride this morning with Pontavice. W. and Francis went off
+on Monday--W. to Laon and Francis to school. Last night Henrietta and I
+went to the Italian Embassy, where there was a contract party for
+Tornielli's niece, who is to marry the Marquis Paulucci, one of the
+secretaries. The fiancee looked charming in pink satin, with a very
+pretty diamond tiara that her uncle had given her. There were a great
+many people. I had the Camerons with me--Nannie looking very pretty and
+chic in red satin with gold wings in her hair. I told her the dress was
+much too old and heavy for her, she should have been in white tulle,
+with nothing in her hair, but she says all the American girls wear
+satin. The Tornielli entertainments are always handsome; their full
+dress livery red is so effective. Henrietta and I have been driving
+about shopping. I never go near a shop alone, but Mrs. Edwardes told us
+there were wonderful "occasions" for silks at Marshall & Snelgrove's. We
+did pick up several things not dear. The English shops are not at all
+like the French ones.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #French Embassy, London#,
+    May 1, 1892.
+
+It is very cold to-day, and I think generally is on the 1st of May. One
+can't imagine a Queen of the May, crowned with flowers, dancing around a
+May-Pole. We are rather shivering, with a good fire in the room. It is
+true that we have been sitting for some time at the window looking at
+the crowds of people pouring into the Park for their great demonstration
+(anti-capitalist). It seems to be all going quite quietly--there are
+processions, and banners, and brass bands (such horrors), the usual
+thing, and I am sure there will be no row and that nothing will
+happen--nothing ever does happen in England.
+
+The Salvation Army are also holding their service in the Park, so near
+that we can almost hear the hymns. There are always soldiers hovering
+near when they have their service; I wonder if it does any good. When we
+were at Dover last year I went quite often to their service--they had
+one almost every afternoon, late, on the beach. It was a curious sight,
+such a motley crowd, rugged old fishermen, boys (half water rats),
+women, children, and occasionally a well-dressed, prosperous small
+tradesman, often soldiers--some lounging on the outskirts of the little
+circle, some sitting on boats, some reverent, some merely curious, but
+all joining in the hymns. I must say it interested me very much; not the
+sermon, nor the preachers as a general thing, but the little earnest
+group gathered on the sands with the swash of the waves for an
+accompaniment, and the red coats of the soldiers making a patch of
+colour. Some of the women looked pretty even in their regulation
+poke-bonnets.
+
+    #French Embassy, London#,
+    May 8th.
+
+It is a beautiful, fine day. I did not perform the Drawing-room, but
+walked about in the crowd with Pontavice, which was decidedly amusing.
+We saw a good many people we knew in the carriages and talked to some of
+them. Very tired they looked, having been for hours in the string. I
+wanted too to see some of the handsome English turn-outs, as when we go
+ourselves we hardly see anything but colleagues. The policeman, who knew
+us, let us stand where we liked--I told him to stop the French
+Ambassador's carriage when it came out. He did, and I jumped in, much to
+the astonishment of the crowd. We had a pleasant dinner at Lady
+Delamere's. About the middle the electric light went out and we sat for
+a few minutes in perfect darkness, except for a succession of matches
+that Lord Wimborne, who was next to me, lit. The servants lost their
+heads, and didn't think at first of lighting candles which were on the
+table. It only lasted those few minutes. Of course such accidents will
+happen perpetually until the system is perfected and universally
+applied.
+
+    Saturday, May 20th.
+
+We had a pleasant dinner to-night at Lord Tweedmouth's and I went
+afterward to a very handsome ball at the Burtons' with Nannie and
+Pontavice. They have Chesterfield House--one of the best London
+houses--flowers and electric light everywhere, and such splendid
+pictures. All the smart women in London were there, and all with their
+tiaras, except one, who explained to me that tiaras should only be worn
+at Embassies, or when one was invited to meet Royalties, "which of
+course you understand, as you haven't put yours on"--so I didn't tell
+the reason, which was that I had forgotten mine, I so rarely wear
+anything in my hair, and a tiara is heavy; also I have to be
+"recoiffee," which I hate. My hair is done in the morning, and walks or
+rides all day, and is merely pulled out a little at night.
+
+    Saturday, May 21, 1892.
+
+We dined to-night at the Trevelyans, all Conservatives. The Stanleys
+(African Stanley) were there. He looks as hard as steel, but I suppose
+couldn't do what he has done if he were not. Many say he wants to be an
+M.P. and is sure of his election. His wife can help him enormously. It
+is so curious to me to see all the women occupying themselves so
+energetically with politics. They go about the country canvassing for
+their husbands; wear the colours of the party; and have affiches
+sometimes in their windows. I saw one well-known political woman in
+London who had large bills posted on her window, "Vote for Lord R." We
+should be hooted in France if we did that sort of thing. My husband has
+been candidate very often, for many offices, but I have scarcely seen
+his name at the bottom of a circular and never heard him address a
+public meeting of any kind--in fact, have never been in the country when
+the elections were going on. It is rather curious, as women have such a
+strong position in France--a mere de famille, and above all a
+grandmother, is somebody. A clever, strong-minded grandmother is a power
+in her family and immediate circle.
+
+    #French Embassy, London#,
+    Wednesday, June 1, 1892.
+
+We had a funny experience to-night. We had been engaged for some time to
+dine with the Gladstones, to meet the Archbishop of Canterbury and Mrs.
+Benson. Mrs. Gladstone wrote to me yesterday, asking me to come
+punctually at 7.45, as the Archbishop didn't like late hours (he is
+rather a delicate man) and had asked to dine early. We made a great
+effort to get there in time--and _did_; so did everybody else--except
+the Bensons. We waited one hour--then went to dinner (they had sent a
+messenger to Lambeth and the answer came back that the Archbishop and
+Mrs. Benson had started _hours_ ago. Everyone was worried and feared
+there must have been an accident. At 9.30 o'clock, when dinner was
+practically over (we had got to the jellies and ices), a message was
+brought to Mr. Gladstone. He left the room and reappeared with the
+Bensons. The explanation was that Mrs. Gladstone had written her
+invitation from Dollis Hill, a place belonging to Lord Aberdeen, some
+miles out of London. They often stay there, so the Archbishop naturally
+imagined he was to dine there, and they had been driving about in the
+country. The poor old lady was dreadfully put out--"The Archbishop might
+have known that we were in London." Of course the dinner was all brought
+back and our evening was long. However, we managed to go for a moment to
+the Foreign Office. I said to Lady Salisbury I hoped it wasn't the last
+time we were supping with her at the Foreign Office (everyone says the
+Liberals are coming in again). "Will you think me very rude if I say I
+hope so, though of course I shall always want to see my friends in
+Arlington Street" (their private residence). I think she and Lord
+Salisbury are both tired and will be glad to have a rest, not that they
+will _socially_, for they are always receiving, both in London and at
+Hatfield. We got home fairly early, though the streets were crowded,
+Piccadilly something awful. It is a regular London night--carriages
+rolling in every direction, and all the world dining, dancing, supping.
+W. was rather funny over the dinner and the long wait, but said that if
+he had been in Benson's place he would have gone straight home from
+Dollis Hill, and had a cup of tea in his library.
+
+    Thursday, July 2, 1892.
+
+We had a small luncheon party this morning to hear the band of the Garde
+Republicaine, who have come over from Paris for a few days to the
+Exhibition. They play magnificently--we have been to hear them once or
+twice and I assure you when they play the "Marseillaise" it makes one's
+pulses leap. We had the Duke of Cambridge, Prince Edward of Saxe-Weimar,
+Staals, Coventrys, etc. They played on the terrace--we had draped the
+balcony with red stuffs, and had some flowers and plants and about 70
+chairs on the terrace. The Duke talked a great deal. As soon as luncheon
+was over he went straight to the library, which opens on the terrace. We
+presented the Chef-de-Musique, and they played at once a few bars of
+"God Save the Queen"; then the "Marseillaise," everyone standing.
+Someone said to the Duke, "It is very fine, but not an anthem like our
+'God Save the Queen.'" "Non," he answered, "mais c'est un magnifique
+chant de guerre." They played for about an hour, people coming and going
+and standing about on the terrace. Some of our friends passing couldn't
+imagine what was going on--there was quite a crowd collected in the Park
+listening. My dress hadn't come from Paris, so I wore white, trimmed
+with Valenciennes; I thought a little of wearing a tiny tricolour bow,
+but didn't after all. One of the prettiest women there was Mrs. Astor,
+in black, with a big black picture hat.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Walmer Castle#,
+    July 17, 1892.
+
+We came down here yesterday and hoped (at least I did) to have a lovely
+day on the water. Lord Dufferin is a great yachtsman and cruises all
+about in his own little boat. At the present moment it is pouring--I can
+hardly see the sea--every now and then comes a partial break and I get a
+glimpse of a great grey expanse of water. We got down for dinner last
+night; a small party, as there are not many bedrooms--Lord and Lady
+Wantage (he such a nice man, one of the few Englishmen who has the
+"Legion d'Honneur," which he got in the Crimean War), the Marchesa Chigi
+from Rome, and various young men. The dinner was handsome--Lord Dufferin
+always a charming host--and we finished the evening in the big
+drawing-room, where I always feel as if I were in the cabin of a ship,
+it is so directly on the water. It looks exactly as it did in Lady
+Granville's time, and in fact Lady D. told me she had not changed
+anything. When I went to the drawing-room this morning I found the three
+ladies talking and trying to persuade themselves that it would clear
+after lunch. I said I did not mind weather and could not stay in the
+house all day, so we agreed to equip ourselves suitably and go for a
+walk after lunch. In the meantime Lady D. took me over the house--we
+went to see Wellington's room (where he died). His little camp-bed is
+still there, and some interesting relics, bits of uniform, and one or
+two letters framed and hung upon the wall. The room is small, in one of
+the towers, nothing magnificent or ducal about it. In fact the whole
+house is simple and not large, one good drawing-room, looking straight
+out to sea, so that sitting inside you see the big ships pass apparently
+close under the windows--a fair dining-room, no library or
+billiard-room, and a few bedrooms--an ideal place for a _water_ life.
+The moat has been changed into a garden and there is a tennis-court
+somewhere, though I didn't exactly make out where. We went for a walk
+along the sea wall with waterproofs and umbrellas, and I wondered if we
+should be blown over into the sea, the wind came in such violent gusts
+sometimes. It seems a child and a perambulator were blown off the other
+day, and strange to say nothing was hurt, neither child nor
+perambulator--only the nurse had hysterics. We walked to Deal and paid
+Lady Herschell a visit. I rather demurred at going in, as my hair was
+decidedly ruffled and I was very wet, but they all wanted to and I
+didn't look any worse than any of the others. The Castle is fine,
+interesting--not so large as Walmer, but with always the same beautiful
+situation close to the sea. It is one of the Cinque Ports, and Lord
+Sydney had it as long as he lived. The Herschells walked back with us,
+and coming home was pleasanter, as the rain had stopped and the wind
+diminished a little. I came up after tea, as I was a little tired and
+thought I would take advantage of a quiet moment to write to you. I will
+finish to-night, as we have come upstairs early. We had rather an
+amusing evening. The young people proposed playing "Historical
+Portraits," and insisted upon our all taking part. I protested
+vehemently, as I never have drawn anything in my life. I remember the
+drawing class years ago at Mrs. Ward's, when we all copied a Greek girl
+with an amphora on her head, and the tears I shed over my performance.
+The amphora (that might have been anything) was crooked and toppling
+over, and all her arms and legs were of different lengths. Even the
+drawing master was obliged to say I had no facility with my pencil. The
+game is really an undertaking. Everyone is given paper and pencils and
+you have 5 minutes by the watch to draw a historical portrait or
+portraits. My neighbour, one of the sons, was doing something most
+elaborate--a quantity of figures--my other neighbour, about my calibre,
+looked helpless, but said she must do something. What do you think she
+did? "The House that Jack Built," an infantine production with 4 lines
+and a chimney, the sort of thing that we all have done as children. That
+gave me courage, particularly as she had played the game before, and
+knew what could be received, so I drew the "Man in the Moon." Can't you
+see it--a large, round O with dots for eyes, nose, and mouth. Some of
+the drawings were really very clever--the "Field of the Cloth of Gold"
+with a great many figures, and Raleigh and his cloak before Elizabeth;
+Queen Elizabeth with a chignon and a short bicycle skirt. We amused
+ourselves very much. We leave to-morrow morning, W. by the first train,
+as he had an early rendezvous in London. I shall go a little later with
+the Wantages.
+
+    #London#,
+    Friday, July 22, 1892.
+
+W. and I drove out to Lyon House this afternoon to a garden party at the
+Duke of Northumberland's. It is a fine old place, about an hour's drive
+from London, with big iron gates, with the Percy lion with its tail
+straight out on top. The Duke did not appear--his daughter-in-law,
+Countess Percy (who is a daughter of the Duke of Argyll) did the
+honours. She showed us the great corridor and large drawing-room with a
+fine Adam's ceiling, and then we went out into the garden, where there
+were quantities of tents, carpets, tea-tables--and half London. Everyone
+was talking elections. I sympathised with Philip Stanhope, who has been
+beaten, and said, "Why didn't you spend more money while you were about
+it?" He was not in the least outraged at such a question, and replied
+promptly, "I should have certainly, if I hadn't been so sure of being
+named." They say a great deal of money has been spent this time.
+
+    #London#, July 27th.
+
+We had our last outing for this year last night; a handsome dinner at
+Tornielli's for the Duc d'Aoste. He is a tall, good-looking young
+fellow, decidedly dashing, and inclined to amuse himself. He is a
+curious contrast to his father, whom I liked extremely, but who was cold
+and silent, looked like a Spanish grandee of the Middle Ages, or a
+soldier-monk--a very striking face and figure. Countess Somaglia (nee
+Gwendoline Doria) was among the guests, with her two daughters. We
+talked a little of old days in Rome. I remember so well when she was
+married.
+
+To-morrow I shall make our paquets, and we four, Francis and I, May and
+Beatrice, leave for Bayreuth and the Tyrol by the Club train on
+Saturday. I ordered my mountain dresses at Nicoll's--two skirts to one
+jacket--a real short one faced with leather for mountaineering, and a
+longer one, shortish too, for travelling, in blue serge; a shortish blue
+linen, and an alpaca. All the personnel dine to-night for good-bye. This
+is my 9th season in London--I wonder if I shall ever see it again. I
+have a presentiment that next year we shall only go back to take leave.
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    February 1, 1893.
+
+We came over last night; a very good crossing, the shortest I ever made;
+we were just one hour on the boat. Lady Salisbury was on board, coming
+from the Riviera. We talked all the way over. She is very sorry we are
+going--says the Queen will regret M. Waddington very much; that she had
+great confidence in him, and now, at her age, rather dreads seeing
+strange faces around her. W. is very glad to get back to France--I too.
+After all, ten years is a long time to be away from one's country.
+
+    Sunday, 5th.
+
+W. and I drove out this afternoon to White Lodge to say good-bye to
+Princess Mary. As we came quite near to the house we crossed very
+quickly two gentlemen in a hansom and just recognised the Prince of
+Wales and Prince George. Everyone is saying that that marriage will be
+arranged. Princess Mary and Princess May were alone, and decidedly more
+cheerful. Princess May still in black, but with no crepe and a little
+jet. Princess Mary was charming and friendly as she always is, and
+seemed really sorry we were going, also wanted to know who was coming in
+our place; but that I couldn't tell her. She promised to come to tea one
+afternoon at the Embassy before we went away. Various people came in to
+tea, as they always do here on Sunday afternoon, and someone said the
+marriage was certainly decided and would be announced after the 27th,
+which was to have been the wedding-day last year. They certainly looked
+much brighter and happier than I expected to see them.
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    February 13, 1893.
+
+I went this afternoon to the House of Commons to hear Mr. Gladstone make
+his great Irish speech. I had an excellent place in the front row of the
+ladies' gallery, and heard and saw everything. The House was packed,
+chairs all along the gangway--the Prince, Dukes of York and Teck in
+their places, quantities of peers and some diplomats--no Ambassadors,
+which surprised me. I know that W. always prefers reading a speech the
+next day, but I thought some of the others would be there. Mr. Gladstone
+was much cheered by both sides when he came in (a tribute to his age and
+intelligence rather than to his politics). He rose to speak at a quarter
+to 4, finishing at 5 minutes past six (two hours and 20 minutes). He was
+much quieter and less passionate than I had expected. There was no
+vehement appeal for the wrongs of Ireland. It was more an "expose de
+motifs" than a real speech, but it was an extraordinary effort for a man
+of his age (83). His voice was so clear and strong, never faltering: a
+little weaker and lower perhaps toward the end. I suppose it is the last
+great political speech he will ever make.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    March 3, 1893.
+
+We are beginning our tournee of farewell visits, and to-day we have been
+to take leave of the Prince and Princess of Wales at Marlborough House.
+I had not seen the Princess since Prince Eddie's death. I wore blue
+velvet and my Jubilee medal. We were received at the door by all the
+household--Probyn, Lord Suffield, Stanley Clark, Lady Suffield, and Miss
+Knollys. Prince George was in the first drawing-room. The Prince and
+Princess with two daughters in the big long room. I can't say I found
+the Princess changed or grown older. She looked sad, but it was the same
+slight, youthful figure. She was still in deep plain black (woollen
+stuff) with no ornaments. She was charming, with the sweet, simple
+manner she always has. Tears came into her eyes when she said she hadn't
+seen me for so long on account of her mourning. I asked her about her
+first grandchild--Princess Louise Fife's little girl. She said she was a
+dear little thing, talked a great deal, trotted about everywhere, and
+called her "Granny." W. and the Prince talked together, but we didn't
+stay very long. I didn't say a word to the Princess about Prince Eddie
+(they told me not to), only just as we were going I said I hoped the end
+of the year would bring her happiness and blessing. She squeezed my
+hand, but her lips quivered and she couldn't speak. She has been
+unfailing to us always and said we should certainly meet again, and that
+I must always let her know when I came to England. I begin to realise
+now that we are going, with all these leave-takings. After all we have
+been here 10 years, and that is a good piece out of one's life.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    March 5, 1893.
+
+I wish you had been here yesterday to see the farewell dinner for W. at
+the Mansion House. It was a great tribute to a departing Ambassador--all
+the distinguished men in England assembled to say good-bye. The Lady
+Mayoress had asked me to dine with her and bring anyone I wanted, so I
+took Hilda and Mdme. de la Villestreux. Hilda and I started together a
+little before 7. As we drew near the Mansion House there was quite a
+crowd; quantities of policemen, and empty carriages driving away. We
+went in by the same entrance as the men, and then turned off sharp to
+the right and were conducted to the drawing-room of the Lady Mayoress. I
+wore black moire with a great band of orange velvet on the corsage, and
+all the jewels I possessed--tiara, pearls, and diamond necklace and
+diamond stars and ornaments fastened on the front of the dress, as I
+knew we were to sit in the gallery after dinner to hear the speeches. We
+found Mdme. de la Villestreux already there--there were 16 women. The
+Lady Mayoress presented them all to me. They were all ex-Lady
+Mayoresses--"ladies who had passed the chair," which it seems is the
+technical term. She also gave me a splendid bouquet tied with a
+tricolour ribbon. The dinner was very good, the traditional London
+public dinner menu--turtle soup, salmon, etc. There was very handsome
+silver on the table: great massive bowls and flagons and beautiful
+flowers--very quickly served, and really very pleasant. After the first
+five minutes everyone talked. Some of the women were handsome, all well
+dressed and with quantities of diamonds. Just as we were finishing a
+servant came to summon us to the gallery. The loving cup was going round
+and the speeches were to begin. The Lady Mayoress led the way to the
+gallery in the great banqueting hall directly opposite the table
+d'honneur. It was a striking sight, particularly that table where was
+the Lord Mayor in his robes, and all the diplomatists with stars and
+broad ribbons. There was a blaze of light and at first I couldn't
+recognise anyone (we were very high), and then I saw W. standing,
+drinking out of the loving cup, with the Lord Mayor on one side and
+Rustem on the other, and gradually I made out a good many people. There
+were two long tables besides the table d'honneur, and they told me about
+300 guests. All the representative men and intelligence of England
+assembled to say God-speed to the departing Ambassador. The Speaker and
+Lord Herschell (Presidents of the two Houses) were both there, and men
+of every possible coterie from Lord Lorne to James Knowles of the
+"Nineteenth Century." As soon as the regular toasts had been drunk there
+was a pause and then came the toast of the evening with "bumpers," "The
+French Ambassador." There were roars of applause when W. got on his
+legs, and I must confess to a decided choke in my throat. W. spoke (in
+English, which they had asked him to do) very simply and very well,
+going back to his early days. When he said that he had done his best
+always to keep up good and friendly relations with England, and that he
+had had much sympathy from all sides, he was much cheered; but much more
+when he said that perhaps what had given him more friends in England
+than any of his public acts as a statesman was the fact that he had
+rowed in the University eight at Cambridge. Then there were roars of
+applause, and he heard quite distinctly the people below saying--"he is
+quite right, we always remember it." He was quite emu when he came to
+the end; his voice taking that grave tone I like so much when he said
+"good-bye." One heard every word. He was much cheered when he finished.
+The Lady Mayoress came and shook hands with me and asked me if I wasn't
+proud of my husband. Some of the speeches were charming--the Speaker's
+particularly; Lord Lorne also made a very pretty little speech, and
+Rustem (Turk), who answered the toast for the "Corps Diplomatique," made
+a very good speech. I can't remember all the names and all the speeches,
+but it was a most brilliant assembly, and as Countess Deym said to me, a
+wonderful tribute to W. As soon as the speeches were over we all went
+down to the great hall, where I had a perfect defile of compliments and
+regrets, Lord Lorne again repeating his words "that W.'s departure was a
+national calamity." All had something friendly to say--the two Law
+Lords, Judge Bowen and Sir Francis Jeune, most sympathetic. S. too told
+me I should be much pleased--he had never seen such a demonstration in
+England for a foreigner. Of course some of the young men came in to the
+Embassy to talk the dinner over, and gave their impressions. They were
+all much pleased. W. certainly was, and said he felt quite emu when he
+saw all the faces turned to him and knew that every word he said would
+tell--also he knew quite well that his reference to the boat-race would
+appeal much more to the _general_ public than any expressions of good
+feeling toward England. He hasn't always had an easy time with his
+English name and his English education. Of course it has been very
+useful to him here, as he has been thrown with all sorts of people, and
+could understand the English point of view, but in France they were
+always afraid he was too English. I think when he has gone they will
+realise at home what good work he has done here _because_ he understands
+them.
+
+    #French Embassy, London#,
+    March 8, 1893.
+
+W. and I went together to the Mansion House, Tuesday, to pay a farewell
+visit to the Lady Mayoress, who was receiving formally with music, tea,
+and quantities of people. The Lord Mayor appeared too when he heard we
+were there, and was quite pleased when W. said how gratified and touched
+he had been by the banquet and the universal expression of regret at his
+departure. The Lord Mayor said to him, "You can't find any warmer
+friends, Ambassador, in France than those you are leaving here, but I
+quite understand that a man can't live long out of his own country." We
+had just time to get back to the Embassy, dress, and start for Windsor,
+where we dined: our last stay in the yellow rooms. The dinner was almost
+entirely Royal--the Empress Frederick, Prince and Princess Christian,
+Prince and Princess Henry of Battenberg, Duchess of Connaught, del Mazo,
+the Spanish Ambassador, I the only other lady. The cercle was not
+long--I thought the Queen looked tired. She sat down at once; said she
+wouldn't say good-bye, as she hoped to see me once more at Buckingham
+Palace. She said at her age she rather dreaded saying good-bye, also
+seeing new faces, and she was very sorry we were going. "Who comes to
+replace you?" I said I thought nothing was yet decided. I talked some
+time to the other Princesses after the Queen had congedied me. The
+Empress was as usual charming, and said, "I am afraid we sha'n't meet
+again often, Mdme. Waddington, you won't cross to Berlin, and I can't go
+to Paris, but that isn't my fault. I think we shall have to meet in
+Italy, where I first had the pleasure of seeing you." The end of the
+evening we spent as usual in the drawing-room with the "household." I
+had quite a talk with Prince Henry, who is very good-looking and
+attractive. We left the drawing-room about eleven--W. going as usual to
+smoke, and I to my rooms. I sat some time in front of the fire in the
+beautiful little yellow drawing-room wondering if I ever should see it
+again, and going back to our first Windsor visit, when all was so new
+and strange to me. I wonder where we shall be this time next year, and
+if we shall settle down easily to our quiet life in France. W. came in
+rather late from the smoking-room: he said all the men were so nice to
+him, and seemed really sorry he was going; also were very anxious to
+know if he wasn't sorry himself.
+
+This morning (Wednesday) it was beautiful. I breakfasted as usual in my
+rooms and sat some time in the deep window recess watching all the
+people coming and going. There is always so much life about Windsor when
+the Queen is there. About 10 Colonel Byng came to take us to the Chapel
+to see the sarcophagus of Prince Eddie, which is enormous and has rather
+too much colour--almost gaudy. I went with Hilda the other day to
+Gilbert's studio to see the monument he is making, and which I liked. It
+is very elaborate and complicated, but the sleeping figure good: so
+reposeful and young; the long straight limbs. One quite realised a young
+life cut short. Gilbert is clever and interesting, and begged us to
+criticise freely.
+
+We got home about 12 and I took a short turn in the Park before
+breakfast, which was full as usual when the Queen passes. She came this
+afternoon for two Drawing-rooms. I shall do my last to-morrow--I sha'n't
+go to the second.
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    March 10, 1893.
+
+I am doing all my last things. I went to the Drawing-room yesterday (our
+last). Countess Spencer presented the ladies, and looked very stately
+and handsome in black, with splendid jewels. The Queen didn't stay very
+long, but looked less tired, I thought, than the other night at Windsor.
+I said good-bye to a great many people whom I sha'n't see again. At this
+season plenty of people are still in the country, and only come up for a
+day or two for Drawing-rooms, theatres, etc. Teesdale and I had quiet an
+affectionate parting. For so long now we have made our entree together
+into the Throne Room: he holding my hand and both of us making a deep
+bow and curtsey at the door, that we have become quite like puppets.
+
+This afternoon I have had my farewell audience from the Queen at
+Buckingham Palace at 4 o'clock. I wore as usual the blue velvet, which
+will walk about alone soon, as it has done all the ceremonies lately; my
+pearls, and a creme velvet bonnet with light blue feathers. I went in
+the ordinary open carriage (not gala). The gala carriage with the
+powdered wigs, big footmen, canes, etc., went out yesterday for the last
+time to the Drawing-room. I had some difficulty in getting into the
+court-yard, which was filled with carriages, luggage-vans, soldiers,
+etc., as the Queen was leaving this afternoon for Windsor. I was sent
+from one entrance to another, in spite of the tricolour cockade, and
+finally drew up at a side-door (where a shabby little victoria was
+standing). A man in ordinary black livery appeared, and after a short
+parley (in which I intervened myself, saying that I was the French
+Ambassadress and had an audience with the Queen) he showed me into a
+room on the ground floor. I waited about 15 minutes (it was 5 minutes to
+4 when I arrived) and then Lady Southampton, Lady in Waiting, appeared,
+with many apologies for being late--she didn't think I would come so
+soon (and I was a little afraid of being late, they kept me so long in
+the court-yard). We went upstairs to a small drawing-room looking out on
+the court-yard, and in about 10 minutes the same servant in black
+appeared, saying, "The Queen is ready to receive the French
+Ambassadress." Lady Southampton said she couldn't come, as the Queen
+wished to see me alone, so I followed the servant down a long
+corridor--he stopped at a door, knocked, a voice said "come in," and I
+found myself in the Royal presence. It was a small, ordinary room,
+rather like a sort of waiting-room, no traces of habitation, nothing
+pretty or interesting. The Queen was standing, very simply dressed in
+black (her travelling dress she said, she was starting at once for
+Windsor) before a writing-table which was in the middle of the room,
+covered with books and papers. She was most kind, made me sit down on
+the sofa next to her, and said she was afraid she had kept me waiting,
+but that she had been kept by a visit from Mr. Gladstone--she then
+paused a moment, so I made a perfectly banal remark, "what a wonderful
+man, such an extraordinary intelligence," to which she replied, "He is
+very deaf." She expressed great regret at our departure, and hoped we
+were sorry to leave England and all our friends, but after all Paris was
+not very far off, and she hoped she should see me again. She was sure M.
+Waddington would find plenty to do when he got back--would he continue
+his literary work? I said he would certainly have plenty to do, as he
+was Senator and Membre de l'Institut, but that we should both miss the
+Embassy life and the varied interests it brought. She repeated that she
+hoped to see me again, so I asked if ever I came back to England might I
+write to one of her ladies, and ask if I could be received. "Pray do,
+and I shall not say good-bye, but au revoir." We talked about 15 minutes
+about all sorts of things--some of our colleagues--our successor, etc.
+She asked again who was coming to London, and said, "My last two
+Ambassadors to France were ex-Viceroys." It seemed to me that she said
+it on purpose, and that she wanted France to send one of her best men to
+St. James's. I repeated the remark to my husband, and the chancellerie.
+It is quite true. The present British Ambassador, Lord Dufferin, is
+certainly the first diplomatist they have. He has had every
+distinguished post England can offer--Ambassador to St. Petersburg and
+Rome, Governor of Canada, and Viceroy of India, and has played a great
+part. His predecessor, Lord Lytton, was also Viceroy of India, and very
+distinguished, though in a different way from Lord Dufferin. I rather
+fancy that Montebello would be an acceptable appointment. He knows
+English well, has English relations, and I should think would like the
+post, but I have really no idea. Some of the papers say that Ribot wants
+the place, but I think he prefers home politics and would not care to
+leave France; however, I could not tell the Queen anything definite. She
+kissed me at parting, and gave me her photograph, signed, in a handsome
+silver frame--then half turned her back, moving to a door on the other
+side of the room, so that I could get out easily and not altogether a
+reculons, which would have been awkward to open the door. I tucked my
+parcel under my arm, opened the door myself (a thing I don't often do in
+these days, except my bedroom door) and found myself again in the long
+corridor. My audience was over, and I daresay I shall never see the
+Queen again. She was unfailing to us both from the first moment, always
+welcomed us with the same smile, was always inclined to talk about
+anything and to understand and smooth over any little difficulty or
+misunderstanding. I think she is a wonderful woman and a wonderful
+Queen. In her long life she must have had many difficult questions and
+responsibilities, and certainly England has not suffered under her rule.
+I met Lady S. in the corridor, who came downstairs with me, and said she
+was quite sure the Queen meant it when she said she would like to see me
+again, that she _never_ said anything she didn't mean.
+
+I found Hilda and one or two friends when I got home who told me that
+the English ladies, headed by Ladies Salisbury and Spencer, representing
+the two parties, Conservative and Liberal, were going to give me a
+souvenir (in memory of my ten years in London), a jewel of some kind. I
+was rather pleased. The last days of adieux are rather melancholy. I
+shall be glad when they are over. I forgot to say that Wednesday I had a
+message about 3 o'clock from the Princess Beatrice, saying she and
+Prince Henry of Battenberg would come about 5 and ask me for a cup of
+tea. The notice was so short that I hadn't time to ask anyone except
+Hilda, who happened in, and some of the secretaries. They came alone and
+were most friendly--said they had not given me any more time on purpose,
+as they didn't want a party, but merely to see us. They were as easy and
+pleasant as possible, she talking much more than she ever does in the
+grand monde. I told her I hoped she would let me know if ever she came
+to Paris. She said. "Oh, yes--and we will do a lively play together."
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Tuesday, March 14, 1893.
+
+I went this afternoon with Mdme. de la Villestreux to the French bazaar
+at Kensington Town Hall to receive Princess Mary, who opened it (and
+very much better than I did the day I performed the same thing). Mdme.
+de Bylandt, de Bille, Mdme. du Poutel de la Harpe were all there waiting
+at the foot of the stairs. Princess Mary was easy and charming, and I
+really think was not bored. She had all the ladies presented to her,
+talked to them all, knew apparently all their relations, young and old,
+complimented them on the arrangement of their stalls, said the various
+objects made and presented by the Ladies' Art Association were very
+artistic and useful (I wish you could have seen them--_our_ pincushions
+at the Vente des Diaconnesses were things of beauty next to them), took
+her tea, said the cake was so good, and delighted everybody. When I see
+how easy it is for Royalties to win golden opinions with a few gracious
+words and a smile, I wonder at the stiff, stand-off manner some of them
+adopt. Princess May looked very slight and pretty, and is always well
+dressed. I again wore the blue velvet, which will fall off me soon, but
+this time I changed the bonnet and wore a black jet one with a red rose,
+and it wasn't very pretty.
+
+    March 16, 1893.
+
+We had a last musical afternoon to-day at Marie Humlicher's: 8 hands,
+two pianos, she directing and the performers being Ctesse. de Bylandt,
+Mlle. de Staal, Hilda and I. We played Mozart and Schumann, really very
+well. Mlle. Humlicher has a nice big room over a coutouriere on Fulham
+Road. She always gives us tea after the music, which is generally
+brought up by a tidy little English maid with her cap and apron. She was
+astounded this afternoon when the tea was brought in by a most elegant
+young person, dressed in the latest fashion, and attended by a second,
+also most stylish--however, as the tea was all right she did not say
+anything; neither did I, but I waited a moment after the other ladies
+had gone and she had a mysterious conversation on the stairs and came in
+highly amused. It seems the two elegant ladies were the dressmaker and
+her assistant. When they saw all these ambassadorial equipages at their
+door--enormous powdered footmen, wigs, cockades, etc., also Hilda's
+beautiful carriage (Deichmann has splendid horses always and everything
+perfectly well turned out), their curiosity got the better of them and
+they felt they _must_ see the swells; so they interviewed the maid,
+installed her in their rooms to attend to any customer who might come,
+got into their swell garments, and brought up the tea. Wasn't it funny?
+Luckily we were all rather elegant. I had been paying some farewell
+visits, and it so happened that we were all up to the mark. I have
+sometimes gone to Mlle. Humlicher's on foot in a cloth dress, as it is
+not far from the Embassy. I am sorry to have done with those
+afternoons--Mlle. Humlicher plays beautifully--she is a pupil of
+Rubinstein's and has a real artistic nature.
+
+    Friday, March 17th.
+
+I had a line from Lady Salisbury yesterday, asking if to-day at 5 would
+suit me to receive the ladies and my present. I accepted of course,
+asking her about how many would come. She answered, between 50 and 60,
+she thought. As the moment drew near I got rather nervous, for W. said
+they would certainly make me a little speech and that I would have to
+reply, and he suggested thinking it over; but that I refused and said I
+must trust to the inspiration of the moment. I wore my purple satin. The
+ladies arrived very punctually. There were one or two men, all the
+personnel, including W., and one or two of my friends, Sir George
+Arthur, Gevers, etc. Lady Salisbury asked me where I would stand, so I
+put myself in the middle of the big drawing-room, under the chandelier.
+Lady Salisbury was spokeswoman, flanked on one side by Lady Spencer, the
+other by Mrs. Gladstone; all the other ladies, including Ladies
+Londonderry, Cadogan, Shrewsbury, Harcourt, etc., forming a circle round
+me. Lady Salisbury made a very pretty little speech, beginning--"Madame
+Waddington, Ambassadress," and saying they hoped I would sometimes think
+of England and my English friends, that I had been there so long that I
+seemed one of themselves, etc., and then handed me a blue velvet etui. I
+don't know exactly what I replied (I was rather emue and W. just
+opposite to me was looking at me hard), but evidently only a few words,
+to say that the ten years I had spent in London had been very happy
+ones, that France wasn't very far away, and that I hoped to come back
+often--but I think they understood that I was pleased and grateful for
+the present, and above all with the feeling that prompted it. The jewel
+is very handsome, a circle of large, beautiful white diamonds with a
+large pearl in the centre and another as pendant. It was passed around
+the company and they all found it very handsome. We had tea in the blue
+room, and I talked to them all and said what was perfectly true, that
+they had been ten perfectly happy years we had spent in London, and ten
+years is a good piece out of one's life. They left me a book with the
+names of all the "signataires." W. was much pleased, and I fancy it was
+rather an unusual demonstration. One of these days, when Francis's wife
+wears it, it will be a historic jewel. After all the company had gone
+the secretaries stayed on a little while. I think they are all sorry we
+are going, and they certainly regret W. as a chief. They all say he is
+so absolutely just.
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Monday, March 27, 1893.
+
+We walked about in the Row this morning. It was cold and raw, not many
+people. We dined at the Italian Embassy in the evening with Tornielli.
+The Comtesse is at Naples with her niece, the young Marquise Paulucci,
+who has just had a fine boy. The dinner was small, mostly colleagues. We
+sat after dinner in the red drawing-room, which is very picturesque--a
+fine old carved chimney, enormous, and beautiful old red silk hangings
+just faded enough to give an old-world look. He has brought quantities
+of things from his palace in Italy. Lincoln was there. He knows who his
+successor is--Mr. Bayard. We don't know ours.
+
+    #Albert Gate,#
+    March 29, 1893.
+
+Princess Mary and Princess May had promised to come once to tea before I
+left and they named to-day. I asked very few people--Duchess of St.
+Albans, Ladies Arran, Randolph Churchill, Hilda, and some men, Deym,
+Tornielli, Mensdorff, George Arthur, etc. Lady Randolph is very musical,
+plays extremely well and is very kind to all the artists. I asked Mlle.
+Jansen (Swedish), who sang quite beautifully--a fine voice, such a ring
+in it. She is going to America, and I am sure she will have a great
+success. Both Princesses were as cordial and nice as possible, said it
+would seem strange not to see me about everywhere any more. "Of course
+you will come back to London," Princess Mary said; "but it can never be
+the same thing--you will be a visitor; now you are living your life with
+us, and London is your home." Princess May looked very pretty, and so
+bright that I fancy her engagement is settled--everyone seems to think
+so. I didn't say anything to her, but when I parted from Princess Mary
+at the foot of the stairs I couldn't help saying that I heard that very
+soon all her friends would be able to congratulate her, and that as I
+was going I would like to think that very happy days were before her.
+She said "I hope so--I think so," and kissed me. At the door she turned
+and said, "I wonder when I shall have tea and music again in these
+rooms. I shall always think with pleasure of the French Embassy." We had
+a farewell dinner at our cousin's, Mrs. Mostyn's. Lord Herschell was on
+one side of me and talked a great deal about the banquet at the Mansion
+House. He said W.'s English was so good, too classical if anything; said
+he would like very much to hear him speak in French and at the Tribune.
+He couldn't imagine such a quiet speech and manner in the fiery French
+Chamber. I told him the Senate was much more sedate than the Chamber
+(consequently much less amusing) and that he would often hear a
+perfectly quiet academic speech there.
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    Good Friday, March 31, 1893.
+
+We went to the afternoon service at St. Paul's, where the anthem was
+beautiful. There were a great many people, a great many men following
+the service, and a great many also walking about looking at the tombs
+and tablets.
+
+We really have not a moment these last days. I shall go over a little
+before W., about the 12th of next month. We have had all sorts of
+leave-takings. The Empress Frederick received us the other day--always
+charming and interesting, but still talking of her visit to Paris, which
+she can't get over. She said to me, "I would have liked so much to see
+you in Paris, in your own house. M. Waddington promised me a dinner with
+all your clever men." "I should have been much pleased and honoured,
+Majeste; perhaps a little later he may have that pleasure--but I'm
+afraid----"
+
+We had all a pleasant visit to Princess Louise at Kensington, who said
+she would certainly let us know when she came to Paris--I think she
+often comes. We went to White Lodge, of course, where they all look so
+happy I can't help thinking that the marriage is arranged. We also went,
+for a farewell cup of tea, to Alma Tadema, who receives once a week in
+his beautiful studio. He is going to send me an engraving of one of his
+lovely Greek pictures. His atelier is most picturesque and full of
+interesting things. He has a set of panels painted by all his artist
+friends which are gems. He is very attractive himself--so simple. There
+were a good many people there.
+
+We had a dinner and party (music) last week at Lady Wimborne's. Their
+entertainments are always successful. The house (Hamilton House) is one
+of the best in London. Lord B., a great friend of W.'s, took me to get
+an ice at the buffet, and was deploring W.'s departure. "Such a pity
+that Waddington had gone back to France after graduating so brilliantly
+at Cambridge. He would certainly have made the same career in England,
+and would have been Premier in England, so much better than being
+Premier in France"--a truly British sentiment (what makes their
+strength, perhaps), but naif.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Albert Gate#,
+    Easter Sunday, April 2, 1893.
+
+My last Easter in London, a beautiful bright day. Henrietta, Francis,
+and I walked down to Westminster Abbey in the morning. It was crowded,
+as it always is--Easter is such a splendid service--the fine old Easter
+hymn always the same, with the Hallelujah echoing through the vaults and
+arches. We had a small dinner in the evening--Jusserand (who had come
+back to see his friends, of whom he has thousands here), the La
+Villestreux, the personnel, and a few young people in the evening. I
+wore my jewel, which they all found very handsome.
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    April 9th.
+
+Henrietta, Francis, and I went to the Temple Church this morning. It is
+a grand old place, right in the heart of London. We were met at the door
+by one of the "benchers," who gave us very good places and took us all
+over the church and various halls after service. Francis had never been
+there and was wildly interested, particularly in the tombs of the old
+Crusaders with their crossed legs. We lunched with quite a party of
+benchers and their wives in the "parlement" room, a charming room
+looking out on the river and across a garden filled with roses, streams
+of sunlight pouring in at all the windows. They told us the War of the
+Roses, white and red, was planned in those gardens, and asked us if we
+remembered the old lines:
+
+    "If this red rose offend thy sight,
+      It in thy bosom wear;
+    'Twill blush to find itself less white
+      And turn Lancastrian there."
+
+Yesterday we had a handsome "Diner d'Adieu" at the Turkish Embassy,
+principally colleagues. Lincoln was there--he too is going, his wife
+left yesterday. They have raised the United States Legation here to an
+Embassy, and I hope they will raise the salaries. No one is more asked
+out or has a better position here than the United States Minister. I
+always remember the remark of one of our colleagues, Baron Solvyns, who
+had been long in London and knew it well. We were talking one day about
+the Corps Diplomatique, small Powers, Embassies, etc., and were
+discussing who was the most important Ambassador in London. Solvyns
+said, "There is no doubt about it, the American _Minister_ is the first
+Ambassador in London."
+
+    #French Embassy#,
+    April 12, 1893.
+
+My last letter from Albert Gate, Dear. Yesterday all our small things,
+silver, house linen, etc., departed. The packing seemed well done. We
+put everything that was to go in the ballroom (little Dresden figures,
+glasses, silver ornaments), nothing packed, all spread out, on tables. A
+man came and made an inventory, packs everything in a great van that
+comes to the door and arrives at our door in the Rue Dumont d'Urville,
+where equally everything is taken out and unpacked. He says nothing will
+be broken. It is certainly a very easy way of moving, and I shall be
+anxious to see how they arrive. The Florians had their furniture taken
+over like that, and I think one table was a little demantibulee. We
+leave to-morrow; we being Henrietta and I. W. stays some little time
+still. I take over all the French servants, both coachmen, and my
+victoria and horses, as I must settle myself for the spring in the Paris
+house. W. sends over one of the secretaries, M. Lecomte, with us, and
+the colleagues are all coming to the station to say good-bye. The rooms
+look melancholy to-night, so many things gone; piano of course and all
+books and small tables, screens, etc.--all the gros mobilier belongs to
+the Embassy. We sat some time talking, just we three: W., Henrietta, and
+I, after dinner. W. has just been named one of the Directeurs du Canal
+de Suez. I think he will find plenty of occupation when he gets back.
+
+    #Paris, 31, Rue Dumont d'Urville,#
+    April 16, 1893.
+
+Here I am, Dear, back in my little salon, writing at my table in the
+corner by the window, and rather distracted by the quantities of
+carriages passing. There is so much more movement in the street than
+when we left ten years ago, and I have got accustomed to such a quiet
+bedroom and salon. All our living rooms (except the dining-room) at
+Albert Gate gave on the Park, so we never heard the rattle and noise of
+carriages over pavements, and as no cabs nor camions are allowed in the
+Park the passing never disturbed us. We came over very comfortably on
+Thursday. All our colleagues were at the station to see us off, and I
+think they are sorry to say good-bye. We found our voiture-salon filled
+with flowers. Sir George Arthur and S. came over with us. It was very
+cold and very rough. All the men disappeared at once, but Henrietta and
+I remained on deck and were quite happy, well wrapped up with rugs, and
+tarpaulins stretched in front of us to keep out the wet. Lecomte had
+arranged our lunch in the private room of the buffet at Calais (where W.
+and I always breakfasted when we came over) and it was comfortable to
+see a bright fire. I am ashamed to say that the ladies of the party eat
+a very good breakfast. The men looked rather white, and certainly were
+not good "fourchettes" at that meal. At Dover we had found Lord William
+Seymour in uniform, with his aide-de-camp, wife and daughter waiting for
+us. He took me on the boat, and to the cabin, where there were more
+flowers, and stayed until the last moment, giving the captain all manner
+of instructions for my comfort, and particularly to see that my cabin
+was warm, with plenty of rugs, etc. I never went near it. I think
+Adelaide and Bonny had a very comfortable time there. Francis met us at
+the Gare du Nord, much pleased to have us back. We went to Henrietta's
+to dine. I was glad to come home directly after dinner and go to bed.
+Well, Dear, there is one chapter of my life closed--I wonder what the
+future reserves for us. I shall be uncomfortable for a few days until my
+van arrives. It left the same day we did, and the man said it would take
+a week to bring the things over, but I shall not expect them for ten
+days. I found quantities of cards and notes here, and Louise and
+Henrietta of course will give me dinner or anything else I want until I
+can get quite settled. Hubert got over only to-day. The sea was so rough
+he wouldn't cross on Thursday; he waited a day at Folkestone, and
+another at Boulogne, to rest the horses which had been knocked about. W.
+writes that the Embassy seems absolutely empty. Still he dines out every
+night (at the club when he hasn't an invitation) and will come over as
+soon as he can. The house looks so small after the big rooms at Albert
+Gate, and the stable and little cour minute. It sounded so familiar to
+hear the carriage coming in under the voute, and also the street cries.
+I daresay in a few days I shall take up my ordinary Paris life, and
+London will seem a dream--like Moscow.
+
+
+    _To G. K. S._
+
+    #Bayreuth#,
+    Saturday, July 31, 1897.[12]
+
+We arrived Thursday evening from Nuremberg in a pouring rain, which
+continued all day Friday, and detestable it was--streets crowded,
+everybody's umbrella running into one and catching in your veil (really
+twice in mine), mud everywhere, carriages scarce and dear. Our rooms are
+comfortable, Mary de Bunsen got them for us, a good-sized salon (with a
+piano), three bedrooms, and two maids' rooms. We have our early
+breakfast and supper, but dine out. Our experience at the Sonne was not
+very agreeable--a long, hot dining-room, quantities of hungry people and
+no servants to speak of. I was rather interested in my neighbour, a
+long, thin American, a Western man from Iowa I think, a school-master.
+He told me he had been saving for years to get money enough "to come
+across" (as he said) and hear "Parsifal." He had taught himself German
+in the evenings when his class was finished. The man was in such a
+quiver of delighted anticipation that it was a pleasure to see him. I
+told him I was sure he would not be disappointed, as Van Dyck was to
+sing "Parsifal." There were quite a number of priests at table, and one
+heard a little French, but the talk was principally German and English.
+We got up to the theatre easily enough, as carriages were going backward
+and forward all the time. The opera, "Parsifal," was beautifully
+given--Van Dyck as good as ever. I always think he stands so wonderfully
+in that scene where he has his back to the public and is absorbed by all
+he sees. He told me it was one of his most difficult parts. We had great
+difficulty in getting our coffee between the acts, and greater still in
+finding our carriage at the end. The crowd, and scramble, and mud were
+something awful.
+
+[12] Waddington died in 1894. Hence the interruption in the series of
+Madame Waddington's letters from 1893 until 1897.
+
+    Friday, August 6th.
+
+We are leaving this afternoon, having had an enchanting week. Monday,
+Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, the whole Ring beautifully given. All the
+music is racing through my brain, from the lovely wave chorus of the
+swimming Rhine maidens to the magnificent end of the "Goetterdaemmerung"
+with all the different motifs worked in. They played the funeral march
+of "Siegfried" splendidly. It is a curious life one leads here. In the
+morning everybody walks about the town--the streets are narrow and it is
+amusing to be hailed from windows over small shops, grocers', bakers',
+watchmakers', by friends who are lodging there. About 3 a sort of
+restless excitement is in the air and one sees a long procession
+mounting the hill to the Opera House, everyone absorbed by the one idea.
+There are quantities of people we know. I didn't go and see Mdme. Wagner
+this time, as Henrietta and Pauline don't know her. Her evenings, the
+off night, are very interesting. One sees all the distinguished people
+of any kind at her house, all the artists, critics, etc. Of course no
+one ventures to criticise the _music_--merely the execution.
+
+    #Meingeningen, Biebrich,#
+    Sunday, August 15, 1897.
+
+I have been here two or three days and am glad to have some quiet hours
+in the garden after the fatigue and excitement of Bayreuth. Four Wagner
+operas in succession is a strain on one's brain (not that I wouldn't do
+it straight over again this week if I could, but one wants the rest
+between). The crowd at Bayreuth the day we started was something
+wonderful, as of course everyone leaves after their serie--there is
+nothing to do or see in the town. At Nuremberg, too, the scramble to get
+something to eat was funny, as there were two courants, all of us
+leaving Bayreuth, and just as many more arriving to take our places.
+There is always a crowd at the Nuremberg station, though they have
+multiplied little buffets outside the regular salles d'attente with
+coffee, beer, sausages, etc. We were late all along the line, and again
+there was such a crowd at the big Frankfort station that I could not get
+my trunks in time to take the first train for Mosbach--however, I
+arrived finally and was pleased to see Heinrich's broad, good-humoured
+face, and we drove at once to the house, where Mary was waiting for me
+with supper. We talked a little, but even that took us on to 2 o'clock,
+as it was after midnight when I arrived.
+
+We have seen various people, and made expeditions to Wiesbaden. We wrote
+to the Empress Frederick's lady-in-waiting the other day (Countess
+Perponcher, whom Mary knows very well) to say that I was here near
+Cronberg, and would be so pleased if the Empress would receive me. The
+answer has just come, asking me to lunch at Cronberg on Wednesday. I am
+delighted to go--first to see the Empress, and then to see the house,
+which is filled with beautiful things. The Empress has travelled so
+much, and been so much in Italy, and has bought all sorts of treasures.
+
+    Tuesday, August 17, 1897.
+
+Last night we went to the opera at Wiesbaden. It was "Hansel and
+Gretel," beautifully given--the orchestra very good and the angel scene
+with all the angels coming down a sort of ladder and circling round the
+sleeping children quite exquisite. It was a funny contrast to the London
+and Paris Opera. Mary and I started off about 5.30 in ordinary summer
+dress--foulard and voile. We went to the great confectioner at Wiesbaden
+for our tea and cakes, and a little before 7 walked across to the Opera.
+There we took off our hats and jackets, hung them up on a little peg,
+found our seats without any trouble, and had a very pleasant evening.
+The entr'actes are much shorter than in France, so that we were out a
+little before 10. The drive home was lovely on a bright starlight summer
+night; about three-quarters of an hour. It was such an easy, independent
+way of going, without the complications of a man to go with us, servant
+to take our cloaks, etc. I often think I should like to live a little in
+Germany, there is so much that I like in the country, and life seems so
+easy, though I believe German women wouldn't say so. They all seemed
+weighed down with cares, and apparently all with very small incomes. I
+wonder if you have read Hauptmann's "Versunkene Glocke"; I am fascinated
+by it. It was a little difficult reading at first on account of the sort
+of patois, but it is a wonderful book, so weird and full of sentiment. I
+will finish my letter after our day at Cronberg.
+
+    Thursday, August 19, 1897.
+
+We had a charming day; I am so glad we went. We started a little after
+ten for Frankfort, where we had a wait of 20 minutes. I wore my black
+voile and a little black and jet toque in which I put a white aigrette,
+and white gloves, so as not to be too black. The trajet is short from
+Frankfort to Cronberg, about an hour. We found two carriages (rather
+pretty victorias in wood natural colour and cushions the same
+colour--they looked very chic and country) and tall powdered footmen in
+the black and silver Imperial livery. There were two or three people in
+the second carriage whom I didn't recognise at first, but made out when
+we arrived. Val Prinsep, the artist, and his wife, a very pretty woman,
+and a German lady, also an artist I think. The Castle is not far from
+the station, and Cronberg (the town) is rather picturesque. The house is
+large--nothing particular in the way of architecture, but stands well in
+a fair-sized park. We were received in a fine hall, with pictures,
+carvings, and plenty of old furniture. Countess Perponcher and Baron
+Reischach received us. Count Seckendorff was not there, which I
+regretted, as I like him very much and should have been glad to see him
+again. Countess Perponcher took us to a small room on the ground floor
+where we left our parasols, wraps, etc., and then we went through one or
+two handsome rooms into a large salon where the company was already
+assembled. Lady Layard and her niece were staying in the house, also
+Prince Albert Solms (our old friend) with his wife. He is very ill, poor
+fellow, and can hardly get about. Some English friends arrived from
+Hombourg--Lady Cork, Lord Algy Lennox. About 1.30 the Empress
+came--always the same charming manner, and always her sad eyes. I
+thought she looked thinner and paler perhaps, but not ill. We went
+immediately to luncheon--the Empress first, alone, all of us following.
+Baron Reischach sat opposite to her, between me and Lady Cork. The talk
+was easy, the Empress talking a great deal. Val Prinsep too did his
+share, and Lady Cork is always clever and original. After luncheon we
+went back to the big drawing-room and looked at some of the beautiful
+things. Angeli's last portrait of the Empress had just come and had been
+placed (temporarily only) in a corner where the light was not very good.
+It is a fine picture--the Empress all in black with her splendid pearl
+necklace, seated on a sort of carved throne, or high-backed chair--all
+the shading dark, the only bit of colour the yellow ribbon of the Black
+Eagle. It is a striking picture and very like her, but so inexpressibly
+sad. She called each one of us in turn to come and sit by her. She spoke
+very warmly of W. to me, and asked me if I didn't regret my London life,
+and if I did not find it very difficult to settle down in France after
+having lived ten years in London, "the great centre of the world." It is
+curious how universal that feeling is with English people (and "au
+fond," notwithstanding all the years she has lived in Germany, the
+Empress is absolutely English still in her heart). They think that life
+in England--London--spoils one for everything else. I told her I didn't
+think I was to be pitied for living in Paris--after all, my boy was a
+Frenchman and all his interests were in France. She asked about Francis,
+how old he was, and couldn't believe that I was going back to feter his
+21 years, and thought it was fortunate for him that his early education
+had been in England.
+
+[Illustration: The Empress Frederick, wearing the Order of the
+Black Eagle
+The last portrait of the Empress by the artist Angeli]
+
+We talked a little about French literature--I think she reads
+everything--and she asked about Bayreuth, were there many French people
+there. I told her the Director of the Grand Opera, among others, who
+wants to have the "Meistersinger" in France, but Mdme. Wagner is rather
+unwilling--the choruses, she thinks, are too difficult either to
+translate or to sing with the true spirit in any other language. The
+Empress said, "She is quite right; it is one of the most difficult of
+Wagner's operas, and essentially German in plot and structure. It
+scarcely bears translation in English and in French would be impossible;
+neither is the music, in my mind, at all suited to the French character.
+The mythical legend of the Cycle would appeal more to the French, I
+think, than the ordinary German life." I daresay she is right. When she
+congedied me I talked some little time to Prince Solms, Reischach, and
+others. Then it was getting time for us to go, as we had to take the
+4.30 train back to Frankfort. I was standing by the window, from which
+there is a fine open view over plain and woods, when the Empress came up
+to say good-bye. She supposed I was going back to France, where I would
+find my boy. "You are very fortunate to have him still with you; it
+gives such an interest to your life." She kissed me, and then said
+sadly, "_My_ task is done--I am quite alone." I watched her go out of
+the room, across the hall, and up the great staircase, with her long
+black dress trailing behind, alone--as she said. It must be an awful
+solitude for her--living there in her beautiful house, filled with art
+treasures of all kinds, and with friends near all summer at Hombourg,
+Wiesbaden, etc., who are only too happy to go to her--but her real life
+is over, and she is as far away from Germany and the throbbing pulse of
+the nation as if she were a cloistered nun.
+
+The Val Prinseps came away with us, and we made a bout de chemin
+together until they branched off to Hombourg. He has quite the same idea
+of the Empress; says "elle se ronge," that she had always had such
+aspirations and wanted to do so much for the intellectual life of
+Germany. Mary and I got to Frankfort in good time, and home for dinner.
+We were glad to prowl about in the garden after dinner, when it was
+deliciously cool and the air heavy almost with the scent of roses, of
+which she has quantities. We saw the Rhine and the lights of Mayence in
+the distance. I suppose this place too I shall never see again, as I
+think Mary has made up her mind to sell Meingeningen. I think she will
+settle in Ireland if she can get the old Townshend place where she was
+one summer. It is ideal, close on the sea, with a splendid park rising
+up behind the Castle, but will be a great change for her.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #South Pavilion, West Cowes#,
+    August 9, 1900.
+
+We are becoming accustomed, Dear, to the wind and rain and a general
+damp feeling. I don't think I have been really dry since we left Paris.
+I live in my serge dress and a waterproof. I should have been quite
+comfortable if I could have changed with the other one, but Bessie
+Talleyrand is disporting herself in it. When we arrived we found
+everyone in mourning for the Duke of Edinburgh, the first days not so
+marked, but since the Osborne has arrived with the Prince and Princess
+on board one sees nothing but black, and Bessie was much disgusted,
+having only blue. The steam launches and boats go all day between the
+yachts and the shore. Everyone, men and women, wears those remarkable
+yellow mackintoshes; you can't tell them apart, and the boats look as if
+they were loaded with great yellow "ballots." The two American yachts,
+Nahma, Mrs. Goelet, and Itwana, Mr. Armour, are splendid, enormous
+steamers and beautifully kept. Yesterday after lunch Bessie and I
+started in the wind and rain to drive over to Osborne and write
+ourselves down for the Queen. I am afraid I sha'n't see her, which will
+be a great disappointment to me; but the ladies here tell me she is much
+affected by the Duke of Edinburgh's death, and after all, the Prince has
+only just got back from his funeral. The drive through Cowes is not very
+interesting, through dirty, smelly little streets; but once over the
+ferry (which one crosses in a boat large enough to take the Queen's
+carriage with four horses) it is pretty enough, up a long hill with fine
+trees and a few places. We didn't see the Castle, as of course we were
+stopped at the gates, which were open, with a policeman standing just
+inside. The park looked fine, grass and flower beds beautifully kept. We
+wrote ourselves down and I left a card for the Duchess of Roxburghe, who
+is in waiting. We went for tea to the Club garden, and there I saw the
+Duchess of Roxburghe, who told me the Queen would certainly see me. We
+dined quietly at home, rather a fancy meal, but we prefer that to going
+out. There is a nice little dining-room, and Joseph waits. How he gets
+on down-stairs with the three maiden ladies who run the establishment I
+don't know. He doesn't speak or understand one word of English and has
+never been out of France before. He went nearly mad over that remarkable
+railway journey of ours across country from Eastbourne to Cowes, where
+we changed about 10 times (all the luggage naturally being transferred
+each time), lost all our connections everywhere and arrived at Cowes at
+10.30 at night, having left Eastbourne at 2. He is much impressed with
+the uncleanliness of the house, and said to me just now, "Si Madame
+voyait les torchons _sales_ dont on se sert pour essuyer les assiettes
+_propres_, Madame ne mangerait jamais a la maison."
+
+    #East Cowes#,
+    Sunday, August 12, 1900.
+
+I had two notes this morning, one from Miss Knollys saying the Princess
+would receive me, and one from Madame d'Arcos saying the Empress Eugenie
+would like us to come to tea with her on the Thistle at 5. I had rather
+hesitated about writing myself down for the Empress. I had never seen
+her, and W. was in such violent opposition always to the Empire that I
+never saw any of the Imperial family; but Madame d'Arcos said Bessie and
+I were the only Frenchwomen at Cowes; we had been everywhere--on the
+Osborne, to the Queen, etc., and it was rude not to do the same thing
+for the Empress--au fond, I was rather glad to have the opportunity, as
+I had never seen her. We went to the club garden after church, as I
+wanted to find a friend who would lend me a steam launch to go out to
+the Osborne. Lord Llangattock offered his, and also said he would take
+us to the Thistle for tea, as they were going on board to say good-bye
+to the Empress (they leave to-night). I wore my black and white foulard
+and a big black hat with feathers (never a sailor hat), which could go,
+as the day was fine and the sea smooth. The Princess was not there when
+I arrived; she had gone to the service on the Victoria and Albert. Miss
+Knollys appeared and we sat some time talking on deck. I was leaning
+over the railing when the Royal launch arrived, and I was astounded,
+after all these years (7), at the appearance of the Princess. Just the
+same slight, youthful figure and light step. The Duke of York came
+forward first and talked a little. He was dressed in undress admiral's
+uniform and looked very well. Then the Princess came, quite unchanged.
+She was simply dressed, in mourning, and looked quite as she did the
+last time I saw her, when she was also in mourning (for Prince Eddie).
+She kissed me, seemed pleased to see me, and we sat on two straw chairs,
+under the awning on the deck, talking about all sorts of things. She
+said the Duke of Edinburgh's death was a great grief to them. They were
+very fond of him, and it was sudden; and spoke most sadly about the
+Empress Frederick, who seems to be dying, and of a cancer. It seems that
+she knows quite well what is the matter with her and what is before her,
+as she nursed her husband through his long malady. Isn't it awful? She
+spoke about Francis, recalling his first afternoon at Marlborough House,
+when he was quite small and wept bitterly when the negro minstrels
+appeared. I told her he was working for diplomacy, and she said she
+would be much pleased to see him when he came to London as attache.
+
+[Illustration: Entrance to the Club and Gardens, Cowes, Isle of Wight.
+From a photograph by Broderick.]
+
+The Prince came and talked a little while, and also recalled the last
+time we met last summer on the quai at Nuremberg, both coming from
+Marienbad, and swallowing hastily a cup of very hot coffee. I thought he
+looked grave and preoccupied. He talked a little about Cowes. He said he
+never remembered such a bad week--awful weather and few yachts. He was
+very complimentary about the two big American yachts, Itwana and Nahma;
+said he had never seen the Nahma, which he regretted, but he didn't know
+Mrs. Goelet--did I? "Oh yes, very well, ever since she was a child, and
+her mother and father before." I was sure she would be very pleased to
+receive them. The Prince said they were in such deep mourning that they
+had been on no yacht, and he hoped there would be no party. I said Mrs.
+Goelet herself was in deep mourning. After some consultation with the
+Princess they said they would like to go on board to-morrow morning at
+12 o'clock (they leave early Tuesday morning), and I promised to speak
+to Mrs. Goelet.
+
+He was amused when I said I liked the "Japs" so much, as he rather
+invented them. They came to sing to him one summer when he was ill at
+Cowes and on his yacht all the time. There are four people, three women
+and a man (a Frenchman), all masked, the women in pretty Japanese
+dresses and the man in ordinary clothes. One woman accompanies at the
+piano by heart, and extremely well; the other two and the man sing and
+dance--dancing very moderate--a sort of "walk around," but the singing
+very good; all English except one or two little French songs the man
+sings alone. One of their favourite ditties, "Mary housemaid," always
+brings down the house. It is just the sort of thing that would have
+amused us in our young days when we used to play and sing by heart and
+invent steps. The women are very graceful--I don't know if they are
+pretty, as one never sees their faces--and the man extraordinary, very
+amusing and never vulgar.
+
+I think I must have been a long time on the yacht, and nothing could be
+more gracious and sympathetic than the Princess. She told me the Queen
+would certainly receive me. I hadn't more than time to get back where
+Bessie and Borghese were very hungry waiting for luncheon, and to start
+again at 4; this time with Bessie and the Llangattocks for the Thistle.
+We were received by Madame d'Arcos, Mlle. Darauvilliers, and M. Rambaut.
+They told us the Empress had a cold and was very hoarse; had been
+forbidden by the doctor to come on deck, and also to talk, but that she
+would receive us in the cabin. We went down almost immediately, preceded
+by Madame d'Arcos, who said we must not stay long, as the Empress ought
+not to talk. She was standing in her cabin, still a handsome, stately
+figure, with beautiful brow and eyes, and charming manner, more animated
+than I had imagined. She was very well dressed in black. She made us sit
+down and talked herself a great deal, always about Paris, the Bassanos
+(speaking most warmly of the Duke), d'Albuferas, and various mutual
+friends. She knew Francis was to work for diplomacy, and said she could
+wish him nothing better than to walk in his father's footsteps. We were
+afraid we were tiring her, as she talked all the time. Twice the "dame
+d'honneur" appeared, but she waved her away. When she finally dismissed
+us she said "Je ne dirai pas adieu, mais au revoir"--regretted very much
+that she could not come on deck and have tea with us, but that we must
+certainly stay. We had a pleasant half hour talking with the others, and
+then there came a message from her begging that we would take her launch
+and cruise about in the harbour. I accepted gladly, as I wanted to
+communicate with the Nahma and didn't exactly know how to manage. The
+French ladies too wished to see the American yacht, so off we started in
+the Empress's launch. It seemed funny after all these years to be
+suddenly thrown with the Empress and her suite and careering about in
+her launch. Mrs. Goelet was not on board, but the steward took the
+visitors all over the yacht, and I discovered Mrs. Warren and told her
+that the Prince and Princess would like to go on board to-morrow--she
+said she was quite sure her daughter would be very happy to see them. I
+found a note from the Duchess of Roxburghe when I got home, saying that
+the Queen would receive me to-morrow at 4.30 at Osborne, so my day will
+be full, as I told Mrs. Goelet I would come to the Nahma to present her
+to the Prince and Princess.
+
+
+    _To H. L. K._
+
+    #East Pavilion, Cowes, Isle of Wight#,
+    Monday, August 13, 1900.
+
+Well, Dear, I am just back from Osborne. I have the salon all to myself,
+Bessie and Borghese are out, and I will write you all about my audience
+while it is fresh in my memory, but I must begin at the beginning and
+tell you about the Royal visit to the Nahma, which went off very well. A
+little before twelve Mr. Warren, Mrs. Goelet's brother, came for us and
+we went off at once to the yacht. The Royal party arrived very
+punctually, Prince and Princess, Duke and Duchess of York, Princess
+Victoria, and various gentlemen. They were all delighted with the yacht,
+particularly the Duke of York, who saw everything. He called an officer
+of the Osborne to see some arrangement of signals which it seems is
+wonderful, and said they had nothing so perfect in the Royal Yacht. Mrs.
+Goelet did the honours very well and simply, receiving the Princes at
+the gangway, with her son and daughter on each side of her, a pretty,
+graceful figure in her plain black dress. I remained on board to lunch
+after the Princes departed, and they sent me ashore at 2.30 as I had
+just time to dress and go to Osborne.
+
+I started again a little before 4, wearing my black taffetas trimmed
+with lace and a tulle bonnet and white aigrette (quite costume de
+ville--I could not go to the Queen in a serge skirt and big hat). I took
+Joseph with me in plain black livery. We arrived quite in time, as there
+was no delay at the ferry this time, and the large gates were open, the
+man making a sign to us to drive in. There were two or three policemen
+standing near the gate and in the park. The park is pretty--not very
+large but beautifully green, and as we got near the house, quantities of
+flowers--a mass of colour. The house is not handsome--rather imposing, a
+large grey stone house with two wings, and flower-beds close up to the
+windows. Three or four footmen in plain black livery were waiting in the
+hall, and they took me at once upstairs to the ladies' drawing-room--a
+nice room at the side of the house not looking out to sea. The Duchess
+of Roxburghe was waiting for me, and we talked about fifteen minutes.
+Then came a Highland servant saying, "Her Majesty was ready to receive
+_Lady_ Waddington." The Duchess and I went downstairs, walked through
+various galleries, and stopped at a door where there was no servant. The
+Duchess knocked, the Queen's voice said, "Come in," and I found myself
+in a beautiful large salon, all the windows opening on the sea. The
+Queen, dressed as usual in black, was seated in the middle of the room
+facing the door. I had barely time to make one curtsey--she put out her
+hand and made me sit down next to her. She spoke to me first in French
+(just as she always did when I was at the Embassy--to mark, I suppose,
+that I was the French Ambassadress), "Je suis tres heureuse de vous
+revoir--I think we can speak English--how much has happened since we
+met"; and then we talked about all sorts of things. I thought she looked
+extremely well--of course I couldn't tell if her sight was gone, as she
+knew I was coming and I sat close to her. Her eyes were blue and clear,
+and her memory and conversation quite the same. She thanked me for my
+letter; said the Duke of Edinburgh's death was a great blow to her. It
+was so sudden, she had not thought him ill. She had lost three children
+all very dear to her, and it was hard at her age to see her children go
+before her. She spoke at once (so moderately) of the caricatures and
+various little incidents that had occurred in France. I said I was very
+glad to have an opportunity of telling her that everybody in France
+(except for a few hot-headed radicals and anti-English) was most
+indignant at such gratuitous insults not only to the Queen but to a
+woman. She said she quite understood that--that wherever she had been in
+France everybody had done what they could to make her stay happy and
+comfortable; that she never could forget it, and hoped the French nation
+felt that--also that she would never dream of holding the country
+responsible for the radical press, but "my children and my people feel
+it very deeply." We talked about the King of Italy's murder (she was
+much pleased with the expression in one of the Italian papers "e morto
+in piedi") and she expressed great sympathy for Queen Margherita--"She
+is fond of Italy and is always thinking and planning what she can do for
+the people." We also talked about the Shah and the attentat in Paris. I
+said that left me rather indifferent, but she answered instantly, "You
+are quite wrong--it is the principle, not the person, that is attacked
+in those cases." I then remarked that it was a great pity, I thought,
+that one of those gentlemen (anarchists, not sovereigns) shouldn't be
+lynched; that I believed the one thing they were afraid of was the
+justice of the people. She said, "That is not a very Christian
+sentiment"; but I think she didn't altogether disagree with me. She
+asked me about Francis--was he working for diplomacy; and then, I don't
+know exactly how, we began talking about mixed marriages. She said she
+didn't think religion ought to be an invincible obstacle. I said I
+thought with her, but that French Protestants were very strict. I told
+her it had been said that my husband, who was certainly a very
+large-minded man in most things, was really narrow about Catholics. She
+said, with such a charming smile, "Oh, I can't think M. Waddington was
+ever narrow about anything, I always thought him one of the most
+large-minded, just men I ever knew." I must say I was pleased, and W.
+always felt that for some reason or another he was sympathetic to her.
+We talked a little about the Empress Frederick; she said the last news
+was better, but she evidently didn't want to pursue the subject. We
+talked on some little time, and when she finally dismissed me, she said,
+"I hope you will come back to England, and whenever you do I shall be
+very glad to see you." She shook hands--I backed myself to the door,
+opened it, and there found the Highland servant, who took me back to the
+drawing-room where the Duchess of Roxburghe was waiting. She suggested
+that we should go for a turn in the garden, and when she went to get her
+hat I looked about the room, which is quite plainly furnished--a grand
+piano, comfortable furniture, not pretty, and no particular style.
+
+We walked about the gardens a little, which are pretty, such quantities
+of flowers, and had tea under the trees. Two of the ladies came
+out--Mrs. Grant and Miss Harbord. They were very anxious to know if I
+found the Queen changed after seven years, but I really can't say I did.
+My impression is that they find her older. They say she felt the Duke of
+Edinburgh's death very much, and that she is very worried about the
+Empress Frederick, though she doesn't talk much about her. It was lovely
+sitting under the trees, so cool and quiet after the noise and glare of
+Cowes. All the people bowed as we drove home through Cowes. I think they
+took Joseph in his black livery for one of the Queen's servants.
+
+I must tell you that Joseph and Elise are also moving in high society.
+Joseph came with a most smiling face to me Saturday night to say that
+one of his friends was chef on the Empress's yacht (the Thistle) and had
+invited them to breakfast on Sunday on the yacht. I said they could go,
+and when Bessie and I were going to church we saw them start--he in the
+regulation Cowes blue serge costume (_not_ the short, very short, Eton
+jacket which is the dress attire of the Club men) and yellow shoes, and
+she in my old purple foulard, with a very nice little toque. A very
+smart little boat was waiting for them.
+
+Now, my Dear, I must stop, as I am exhausted, and a perfect Mrs.
+Jellyby, papers flying all over the place, as I am writing at the open
+window, and ink all over me, fingers, hair, etc. I can't say, as Madame
+de Sevigne did, "ma plume vole," for mine stops and scratches, and makes
+holes in the paper, and does everything it can to make my writing
+difficult. I wonder why I hate it so--I do--as soon as I sit down to my
+writing-table I want to go out or play on the piano, or even crochet
+little petticoats--anything rather than write. I suppose I shall never
+see the Queen again--at her age it isn't very likely, especially if I
+wait another seven years without coming over. I am glad she received me,
+it was a great pleasure.
+
+
+    _Note._
+
+    #Paris, 29, Rue Auguste Vacquerie#,
+    Dimanche, 29 Decembre, 1901.
+
+Of course I never saw the Queen again. She began to fail that same
+autumn (1900) after her return home from Balmoral, and died at Osborne
+the 22d of January, 1901--a beautiful death, painless, sleeping away and
+all her children and grandchildren with her. It isn't only the Queen who
+has disappeared--it is the century. England will enter on a new
+phase--but it must be different from the chapter that has just closed.
+
+
+
+    INDEX
+
+
+d'A----, Countess, 235
+
+A----, Lady, 214, 235
+
+A----, Lord, experience on the House of Lords boat at the Naval Review,
+       264, 265
+
+A----, Mdme., 87, 89, 122
+
+Aberdeen, Lady, 313
+
+Aberdeen, Lord, 216
+
+Abinger, Lord and Lady, 172
+
+Adams, 234
+
+Adelaide, Mlle., 7, 10 _et passim_
+
+d'Agoult, 343
+
+Albanesi, 234
+
+Albani, 242, 243
+
+Albany, Duke and Duchess of, 179;
+  death of the Duke, 206
+
+Albert, Arch Duke and Arch Duchess, of Austria, 56;
+  incident in Paris, 57
+
+Albert, Prince, 177; tomb, 239
+
+Albert Solms, Prince, 388
+
+Albert Victor, Prince, Duke of Clarence, 184, 186, 218, 237;
+  illness, 333;
+  engagement to Princess May, 333;
+  death, 334;
+  funeral, 336;
+  sarcophagus, 369
+
+d'Albuferas, 395
+
+Alexander III., Emperor of Russia, 4;
+  the procession to the Kremlin, 44-46;
+  danger from the Nihilists, 52, 53;
+  coronation of, 65-67;
+  the breakfast following the Coronation, 68-70;
+  the reception after the Coronation, 71-73;
+  at the Court Ball, 74, 75;
+  at the great ball at the Palace, 78;
+  the Fete Populaire, 82;
+  at the Palace ball, 86-90;
+  the gala dinner, 93, 94;
+  the revue, 102-104;
+  his home at Peterhof, 116, 117
+
+Alexander, Prince, of Battenberg, 236
+
+Alexis, Grand Duke, at the coronation of his brother, Emperor Alexander
+        III., 66; at the Palace ball, 86
+
+Alice, Princess, of Hesse, 239
+
+Amedee, King, 92
+
+Amelie, Princess, of Schleswig-Holstein, 326
+
+Ampthill, Lord and Lady, 17, 281, 282
+
+Anne, ----, 5
+
+Antrim, Lady, 310, 312
+
+d'Aoste, Duc, 6; described, 91, 92, 361
+
+Appert, General, 145, 148, 153
+
+Appert, Madame, 153, 154;
+  her daughters, 154
+
+d'Arcos, Madame, 395
+
+Armour, Mr., 391
+
+Arran, Lady, 377
+
+Arthur, Sir George, 375, 377, 382
+
+Ashburton, Lady, 349
+
+Ashburton, Lady Louisa, 242
+
+Astor, Mrs. 357
+
+Augusta, Empress, 18
+
+d'Aumale, Duc, 217, 303, 304
+
+
+Baden, Grand Duchess of, 18
+
+Baldwin, Admiral, 58, 120, 142;
+  entertains the Waddingtons and others on his flagship, 120-123;
+  impressions of the Coronation, 137
+
+Baldwin, Mrs., 151
+
+Barrington, Mr. Eric, 329, 337
+
+Bassanos, 395
+
+Bayard, Mr., 377
+
+Beatrice, Princess, 176, 177, 192, 195;
+  at the opening of Parliament, 237;
+  at Windsor Castle, 238, 311
+
+Bedford, Duchess of, 236, 257, 280
+
+Bedford, Duke of, 280, 281
+
+Belgians, King of the, 249
+
+Belgians, Queen of the, 256
+
+Benckendorff, Colonel, 34 _et passim_
+
+Berard, M., 24, 26
+
+Beresford, Lord Charles, 296
+
+Bernadotte, 138
+
+Bernhardt, Mdme. Sarah, 135
+
+Bille, Elsa de, 317, 323
+
+Bille, Mdme. de, 315, 326
+
+Bismarck, 15;
+  talks with M. Waddington, 17, 18, 21;
+  friction with the Empress, 268
+
+Bismarck, Herbert, 243
+
+Bleichroeder, 19
+
+Blennerhasset, Lady, 340
+
+Blumenthal's, 302
+
+Boehm, 281, 282
+
+Boleyn, Anne, 175
+
+Bondy, M. de, 140, 142
+
+Borghese, 395
+
+Borthwick, Lady, 251, 271, 272
+
+Boston, Lord, 218
+
+Boulanger, 267, 268, 296
+
+Bowen, Judge, 367
+
+Braganza, Duchesse de, 256
+
+Brandt, Mr., 163
+
+Brasseys, 187
+
+Brennen, Mme. and Mlle. de, 203
+
+Bridge, Dr., 348
+
+Brown, Mrs., 169
+
+Brown, John, tablet in memory of, 239
+
+Brownlows, 346
+
+Bryce, Mr., 307
+
+Btetju, Count, 244
+
+Buccleuch, Duchess of, 237, 257
+
+"Buffalo Bill," 243
+
+Bulgaria, Prince of, 218
+
+Buelow, 337
+
+Bunsen, George de, 15, 16, 17
+
+Bunsen, Mlle. Beatrice de, 285
+
+Bunsen, Mary de, 386, 390
+
+Burns, Walter, 295
+
+Burtons, 354
+
+Bury, Mlle. de, "sur Racine," 212
+
+Bylandt, Comte de, at the Naval Review, 261, 265
+
+Bylandt, Comtesse de, 203, 220, 222, 259, 338
+
+Byng, Colonel, 252, 369
+
+
+C----, Lord, Indian Secretary, 252
+
+Calmon, Robert, 7, 95
+
+Cambridge, Duchess of, 180
+
+Cambridge, Duke of, 189, 195, 201, 236, 246, 258
+
+Cameron, Sir Roderick, 283, 286;
+  in Scotland, 287 _et seq._
+
+Campbell, Mr., 207
+
+Carlingford, Lord, 184
+
+Canterbury, Archbishop of, 355, 356
+
+Carpe, 272
+
+Carrington, Lord, 346
+
+Catherine II., 90, 95
+
+Cavendish, Lord Frederick, murder of, 3
+
+Cecil, Lady Gwendoline, 306
+
+Cecil, Lady Margaret, 218, 231, 232
+
+Cecil, Lord Edward, 303
+
+Chaine, Col., 337
+
+Chambord, Comte de, illness of, 156;
+  death, 159, 170
+
+Charles IX., 143
+
+Charles Louis, Arch Duke and Arch Duchess, of Austria, 88, 93, 96;
+  at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 66;
+  at the Court ball, 74;
+  drive with the Empress at the revue, 103
+
+Chemin, 11
+
+Chesterfield, Lord, 219
+
+Chetwode, Sir George and Lady, 172
+
+Chigi, Marchesa, 358
+
+Childers, Mr., 182
+
+Christian, Prince, of Schleswig-Holstein, 266, 368
+
+Christian, Princess, 254, 266, 368
+
+Churchill, Lady, 192
+
+Clanwilliam, Lady, 315
+
+Clark, Stanley, 363
+
+Colocotroni, Mlle., 71
+
+Compans, Ternaux, 125
+
+Connaught, Duchess of, 368
+
+Connaught, Duke of, 236;
+  at the Jubilee Te Deum, 249;
+  as a soldier, 258
+
+Constantine, Grand Duchess, 60, 61, 80, 87, 88, 94
+
+Constantine, Grand Duke, 60, 61
+
+Corcelle, Francois de, 7, 13, 95
+
+Cork, Lady, 388
+
+Cork, Lord, 197
+
+Correa, Brazilian Minister, 270
+
+Corti, Ambassador, 239, 240
+
+Courcel, Mdme. de, 16, 18, 20, 21, 159, 162
+
+Courcel, M. de, 14, 15, 159, 162
+
+Coutouly, M., 125, 127
+
+Coventry, Lord, 279, 357
+
+Cowell, Sir John, 191, 192
+
+Cranborne, Lady, 306
+
+Cranborne, Lord, 255
+
+Cumming, Jean Gordon, 235
+
+Curzon, Lord and Lady, 310
+
+
+D----, Count, Austrian Ambassador, 236
+
+Dalhousie, Lord, 192, 193
+
+Darauvilliers, Mlle., 395
+
+Deichmann, Baron, 268, 344
+
+Deichmann, Baroness Hilda, 208, 222, 253;
+  described, 210
+
+Deichmann, Elsa, 317
+
+Deichmann, Hilda, 254, 255, 321
+
+Deichmann, Wilhelm, 351
+
+Delamere, Lady, 354
+
+Delawarr, Lord and Lady, 201
+
+Denmark, Crown Prince of, 305
+
+Denmark, King of, 249
+
+Derby, Lady, reception at home of, 210, 211;
+  entertains at Knowsley, 228-232
+
+Derby, Lord, 218, 231, 232
+
+Deroulede, 314
+
+Deym, Bianca, 317, 318, 320
+
+Deym, Countess, 315, 329
+
+Dolgourouky, Prince, 96
+
+Dubois, Marie, 203
+
+Dudzeele, Countess, dances with the Emperor at the Court ball, 74
+
+Dufferin, Lord and Lady, entertain at Walmer Castle, 358-360;
+  rank, 371
+
+Duncan, 287
+
+Dupoutet, 347
+
+
+Eames, Miss, 295, 314
+
+Edinburgh, Duchess of, 88, 103, 192, 200, 203
+
+Edinburgh, Duke of, 6, 45, 93, 103, 203, 236, 254;
+  daughters, 249;
+  at the Jubilee Te Deum, 249;
+  death, 391, 393
+
+Edward, Prince, of Saxe-Weimar, 203, 357
+
+Edwardes, Gay, 317, 318, 336
+
+Edwardes, Henry, 319
+
+Edwardes, Mrs., 323
+
+Erard, 320
+
+Erroll, Lady, 176
+
+Esher, Lord, 242
+
+d'Estournelles, 325, 328
+
+d'Estournelles, Mdme., 326, 328
+
+Eugenie, Empress, 266;
+  at Cowes, 395, 396
+
+Eulenbourg, Count, 81
+
+Eulenbourg, Countess, 324
+
+
+Falbe, Mme. de, 232, 233
+
+Falbe, M. de, 232, 233, 305
+
+Fawkes, Guy, confession, 242
+
+Fayet, Commandant, 7
+
+Fife, Duke of, 276;
+  engagement to Princess Louise, 301;
+  marriage, 305
+
+Florian, Count de, 194, 207, 253, 259, 278, 283
+
+Florian, Countess de, 253, 259, 262, 278, 283, 306;
+  at White Lodge, 341, 342
+
+Forbes, 233
+
+Forges, M. Blanchard de, 226
+
+Francis, Miss W., 287
+
+Francois d'Assises, King, 92
+
+Frederick,  Empress,  Crown Princess, 250, 252;
+  described, 253;
+  visit to Versailles, 309;
+  at Windsor, 310-312, 368;
+  luncheonat Ferdinand Rothschild's, 314;
+  receives the Waddingtons, 378;
+  at Cronberg, 387-390;
+  illness, 394
+
+Frederick III., Emperor, Crown Prince, 250, 251;
+  failing health, 254, 266, 267;
+  death, 282;
+  funeral service, 282, 283
+
+Frederica, Princess, of Hanover, 204
+
+Frederick Charles, Prince, 243
+
+Frederick Charles, Princess, 20
+
+Freeman, Violet, 321
+
+Froude, J. A., 229;
+  on America, 231
+
+
+Galitzin, Prince, 49
+
+Gardner, Lady Winifred, 346
+
+Gayare, 242
+
+Gennadius, 336
+
+George II., 267
+
+George, Prince, 200, 237, 337;
+  report of marriage to Princess May, 362
+
+Gevers, Baron, 338
+
+Ghika, Princess, 222
+
+Giers, M. de, 58, 76
+
+Gilbert, 369
+
+Gille, Mdme., 107
+
+Gladstone, Mr. W. E., described, 3;
+  versatility, 181, 182;
+  gives a reception, 188, 189;
+  dines at Mr. Murray's, 315;
+  age, 346;
+  makes his great Irish speech, 363
+
+Gladstone, Mrs. W. E., 3, 189, 346;
+  gives a dinner for the Archbishop of Canterbury, 355, 356
+
+Gladstone, Wm., 172
+
+Glinka's opera, "La Vie pour le Czar," 69, 75, 80
+
+Goelet, Mrs., 391;
+  receives the Royal party aboard the Nahma, 397
+
+Gordon, "Chinese," murder of, 199
+
+Goschens, 184
+
+Gower, Mr. Leveson, 172
+
+Grant, General U. S., death, 218
+
+Grant, Mrs., 400
+
+Granville, Countess, 195
+
+Granville, Earl, entertains M. Waddington, 170, 171, 190, 195, 273
+
+Greece, King of, 256, 260, 305
+
+Greece, Queen of, 71, 77, 80, 93;
+  described, 72;
+  at the Court ball, 74
+
+Greene, Plunkett, 302
+
+Grey, Lady Jane, 175
+
+Grieg, 273
+
+Griswold, Miss Gertrude, 234
+
+Grondal, Mdme., 302
+
+Guillemain, M., 348
+
+
+Halsbury, 237
+
+Hamilton, Duchess of, 236
+
+Hamilton, Lord and Lady Claud, 201
+
+Harbord, Miss, 400
+
+Harcourt, Lady, 174;
+  presents Mme. Waddington to the Queen, 175, 176, 177
+
+Harcourt, Sir William, 174
+
+Hare, the actor, 346
+
+Hartington, Lord, 199, 268, 310, 311
+
+Hatzfeldt, Comte, 16, 303, 314, 325;
+  at Hatfield, 330, 331
+
+Hawaiian Secretary, 245
+
+Hayter, Lord and Lady, 183, 200
+
+Henrietta ----, 10 _et passim_
+
+Henry, Prince, of Battenberg, 204, 236, 368, 373
+
+Herberts, Ivor, 273
+
+Heretier, Grand Duke, 103
+
+Herkomer, his studio and pupils, 344-346
+
+Herschell, Lady, 359
+
+Herschell, Lord, 366, 378
+
+Heurtel, Mme., 261
+
+Hoffman, Col. and Mrs., 147, 154, 155, 156
+
+Hollman, 276
+
+Hubert, 7, _et passim_
+
+Hubert, Mdme., 5, 10
+
+Huddlestone, Lady Diana, 279
+
+Humlicher, Marie, 374, 375
+
+Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., 37, 58, 83, 120
+
+Hurlbert, Mr., 181, 182
+
+
+Isabella, Queen, 92
+
+Ivan the Terrible, 91
+
+
+Jansen, Mlle., 377
+
+Jaures, Admiral, 36, 94, 105;
+  his hospitality, 118
+
+Jaures, Mdme., 36, 37, 80, 88, 117;
+  at the Court ball, 74;
+  aboard the Lancaster, 122
+
+Jay, Anna, 39
+
+Jersey, Lady, 187, 203;
+  experiences at receptions, 211
+
+Jersey, Lord, 187
+
+Jeune, Mr. and Mrs., 218, 266
+
+Jeune, Sir Francis, 367
+
+Joachim, 272
+
+Johore, Maharajah of, 216
+
+Jomini, M., 120
+
+Joseph, 7
+
+Joy, Mr., 14
+
+Jusserand, J. J., 276, 277, 286, 380
+
+Juteau, 191, 216
+
+
+Kapilani, Queen, of the Sandwich Islands, 245, 249, 255, 256
+
+Karolyi, Count, 226, 240, 241
+
+Karolyi, Count Victor, 240
+
+Karolyi, Countess Fanny, 189, 195, 220, 240, 241
+
+Karolyi, Nadine, 226
+
+Kenmare, Lord, 192
+
+Kergorlay, M. de, 145, 147, 155;
+  his children, 150, 152, 156
+
+Khiva, Khan of, 75
+
+Kimberley, Lord and Lady, 192
+
+King, Rufus, 179
+
+Kleeberg, Mme., 270
+
+Knollys, Miss, 179, 184, 320, 363
+
+Knowles, 246
+
+Knowles, James, 366
+
+Knutsford, Lord, 268
+
+Kotchoubey, Princess, 49-51, 58, 82, 88
+
+Kufstein, Count, 269
+
+
+Lacour, Challemel, Ministre des Affaires Etrangeres, appoints M.
+Waddington Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow, 5
+
+Lagrene, M., 32, 95
+
+La Iglesia, M. de Casa, 220, 223, 275;
+  appointed Ambassador, 306
+
+Langhe, Mlle. de, 285;
+  helps with the children's comedy, 315 _et seq._
+
+Lasteyrie, 347
+
+Lataings, 338
+
+Lathom, Lord, 237, 252;
+  on the Jubilee ceremonies, 258, 259
+
+Lawrence, Mrs., 148
+
+Lawrence, Anna, 317
+
+Layard, Lady, 388
+
+Lecky, Mr., 229
+
+Lecomte, M., 298, 299, 319
+
+Leeds, Duke and Duchess of, 201
+
+Leeven, Baron, 118
+
+Leigh, Tom, 269
+
+Leighton, Sir Frederick, 310
+
+Lennox, Lord Algy, 388
+
+Leroy, Mr., 7
+
+Le Valloit, Mdme., 272
+
+Levisohn, Mlle., organizes a "toy symphony," 351 _et seq._
+
+Lhermite, M., 8
+
+Lincoln, Mr., 340, 377, 380
+
+Lind, Letty, 271
+
+Linden, Countess, 85
+
+Lionel, Lord, 232
+
+Llangattock, Lord, 393
+
+Lloyd, 276
+
+Lloyd, Lady Mary, 349
+
+Lomatch, M., 126
+
+London, Lord Mayor and Mayoress of, 364, 365, 367
+
+Londonderry, Lady, 303, 315
+
+Lonsdale, Lady, 184
+
+Lorne, Lord, 271, 302, 366
+
+Louis Philippe, 171
+
+Louise, Princess, 200, 271;
+  announcement of her engagement, 301;
+  marriage, 305; at Kensington, 379
+
+Lowell, James Russell, 180, 202, 242;
+  death of his wife, 200
+
+Lowell, Mrs., 180; death of, 200
+
+Lyons, Lord, 3, 98, 183
+
+Lytton, Lord, 183, 372
+
+
+Mackay, Mr. and Mrs., 37, 58
+
+MacMahon, Marechal, 6, 7
+
+Magdalen, Master of, 184
+
+Malagache Embassy, 21
+
+Manners, Lord and Lady John, 218
+
+Mansouroff, Madame, 43
+
+Margaretta, Princess, 311
+
+Margherita, Queen, 399
+
+Marochetti, Italian Minister, 153
+
+Mary of Teck, Princess, 244, 251;
+  described, 275;
+  at White Lodge, 341, 342, 362;
+  opens the French bazaar, 373;
+  tea at Mme. Waddington's, 377, 378
+
+Mary, Queen, "Bloody Mary," letter to Cardinal Pole, 242
+
+Mary, Queen of Scots, portraits of, 288
+
+Massanet, 295
+
+Mathias, M., 134, 135, 136
+
+Maud, Princess, 320, 330
+
+Mavrocordato, 25
+
+May, Princess, 244, 275;
+  engagement to the Duke of Clarence, 333;
+  grief for, 341, 342;
+  rumour of marriage to Prince George, 362, 377;
+  at the French bazaar, 374
+
+Mazo, del, Spanish Ambassador, 368
+
+Mead, Lady J., 317
+
+Mecklenburg, Duke and Duchess Paul of, 271, 272, 273
+
+Mensdorff, 377
+
+Merindol, 348
+
+Methuen, Lord, 176
+
+Michel, Grand Duchess, receives Mme. Waddington, 59, 60, 87;
+  described, 94
+
+Michel, Grand Duke, 87
+
+Mitford, Mrs., 340, 342
+
+Mohrenheim, M. de, Russian Ambassador, 179, 184;
+  at Windsor Castle, 191, 192
+
+Mohrenheim, Madame de, 185, 191, 192, 193
+
+Molesworth, Lady, 217
+
+Moltke, 131, 154
+
+Monaco, Princess of, 326
+
+Monk, Mr. Charles, 172, 174
+
+Monk, Miss Julia, 172, 173, 201
+
+Montebello, 372
+
+Montpensier, Duc de, 6, 43, 46, 93
+
+Montrose, Duchess of, 203
+
+Mostyn, Mrs., 378
+
+Moulin, M., 125
+
+Muenster, German Ambassador, 179, 180, 239
+
+Murray, Mr., 315
+
+
+Naidillac, Marquis de, 326
+
+Nannie, 352
+
+Neruda, Mdme., 272
+
+Newcastle, Duke and Duchess of, 306
+
+Newman, 308
+
+Nigra, Italian Ambassador, 37, 68, 80, 82, 97;
+  describes Russian society, 98;
+  in London, 179;
+  at Windsor Castle, 192;
+  departure for Vienna, 223
+
+Noccomore, Commandant, 261
+
+Nordica, 276, 284
+
+Northbrook, Lord, 183
+
+Northcote, Lady, 306, 314
+
+Northcote, Sir Stafford, 189
+
+Northumberland, Lord, 360
+
+
+Oborlenski, Princess, 43, 52
+
+Oldenburg, Duchess of, 61, 88, 103
+
+Oppenheim, Mrs., 284
+
+Orleans Princes, 274
+
+Orloff, Prince, 9, 53, 96, 101
+
+d'Orval, M., 108
+
+Ourousoff, Prince, 105
+
+
+P----, Lady, 213
+
+P----, Lizzie, 243
+
+Pahlen, Count, 49, 51, 54
+
+Pahlen, Countess, 55, 58, 96
+
+Palmerston, Lord, 171
+
+Paris, Comte de, 159, 274, 275
+
+Pasquier, Duc d'Audifret, 274
+
+Patenotre, M., 135, 139;
+  characterises the Swedes, 140, 141;
+  bids farewell to the Waddingtons, 143
+
+Paul, Mr., aide-de-camp, 58, 120
+
+Paulucci, Marquis, 352, 377
+
+Pawel-Rammingen, Baron, 204
+
+Peel, Sir Robert, his daughter, 201
+
+Pepys, Lady Mary, 285
+
+Percy, Countess, 360
+
+Perier, Mdme. Casimir, 277
+
+Perponcher, Countess, 310, 314, 388
+
+Persia, Grand Vizier of, 303
+
+Persia, Shah of, at the Court Ball, 301;
+  arrival by water, 301, 302;
+  luncheon party at Hatfield in his honour, 302-304
+
+Peter the Great, portraits of, 118, 119
+
+Petiteville, 226
+
+Petre, Mr. Henry, 313
+
+Pfeffer, 351
+
+Phelps, Edward J., American Ambassador, 238, 239
+
+Phelps, Marguerite, 317
+
+Phelps, Mrs., 238, 239, 247
+
+Phillipe, the coiffeur, 12
+
+Picolellis, 272, 275
+
+Pierson, 7
+
+Pina, M. de, 159, 162, 163
+
+Pittie, General, 7, 24, 67, 98
+
+Plunkett, Mr., 4
+
+Ponsonby, Sir Henry, 176, 177, 237
+
+Pontavice, 320, 326, 327
+
+Pontecoulant, Comte de, 7, 10, 20 _et passim_;
+  death of his brother, 94;
+  his death, 208
+
+Portland, Duke of, 202, 237
+
+Pourtales, Comte Jacques de, 233
+
+Poutel, Mdme. du, 373
+
+Powell, Mr. Price W., 172
+
+Praed, Mr., 218
+
+Prince Imperial of Germany, 18, 19
+
+Probyn, Sir Digby, 179, 363
+
+
+Quirim, Miss, 333
+
+
+Radziwill, 91, 162
+
+Radziwill, Princess, 22
+
+Rambaut, M., 395
+
+Randolph Churchill, Lady, 377
+
+Regnier, Arch Duke, of Austria, 259
+
+Reischach, Baron, 388, 390
+
+Renan, 309
+
+Reszke, Jean de, 315
+
+Ribot, 372
+
+Richard, Mdme., 320
+
+Richelieu, Duchesse de, 306
+
+Richter, General, 101, 116
+
+Rizzio, murder of, 288
+
+Roffy, Mrs., 316, 317, 321
+
+Rogers, aide-de-camp, 58, 120
+
+Rogers, Canon, 297;
+  takes Mme. Waddington through Petticoat Lane, 298, 299;
+  his good work, 299, 300
+
+Ronalds, Mrs., 272
+
+Rosebery, Lady, 204;
+  gives a ball, 255
+
+Rosebery, Lord, 255, 256
+
+Rothschild, Ferdinand, 314
+
+Rothschild, Lord, 268
+
+Roustan, naval attache, 268
+
+Rudolph, Prince, 247
+
+Roxburghe, Duchess of, 257, 392, 398
+
+Russia, Empress of, 45;
+  coronation of, 65-67;
+  at the Coronation breakfast, 67-70;
+  versatility as a linguist, 73;
+  at the Court ball, 74, 75;
+  at the great ball, 78;
+  gives a tea between the acts at the Opera, 80;
+  at the gala dinner, 93, 94;
+  drives without escort, 98;
+  at the revue, 103, 104
+
+Rustem Pacha, 235, 330, 366
+
+Rutland, Duchess of, 304
+
+
+Sagan, Duke of, 159
+
+St. Albans, Duchess of, 377
+
+St. Clair, Lady Harriet, 179
+
+St. Genys, 276, 306, 315, 316
+
+St. Vallier, 15, 17
+
+Salisbury, Lady, gives reception, 210, 211;
+  entertains the Waddingtons at Hatfield, 215, 216;
+  luncheon party in honour of the Shah, 302-304;
+  on the ice, 306, 307;
+  gives luncheon for the German Emperor, 329-332;
+  desire for rest, 356;
+  crosses the channel, 362;
+  makes a speech, 376
+
+Salisbury, Lord, 189;
+  speaks in the House of Lords, 201, 202;
+  at opening of Parliament, 237;
+  reception, 243;
+  entertains the Shah, 303;
+  and the German Emperor, 329-331
+
+Sancy, M. de, 20, 159, 162
+
+Sanderson, Miss, 295
+
+Sanderson, Mr. Thomas, 337
+
+Sandford, Mr., 143
+
+Sarasate, 272
+
+Saxe-Weimar, Prince Herman, 254
+
+Say, Leon, 3
+
+Scalchi, 242
+
+Scarlett, Miss, 172, 173
+
+Schimmelpenninck, M., 27, 29, 30, 58, 122
+
+Schubert, 345
+
+Schuster, Frank, 276
+
+Schuyler, 308
+
+Schweinitz, General, 39, 80, 83;
+  at the Coronation Breakfast, 70;
+  at the Court ball, 73
+
+Schweinitz, Madame, 81
+
+Seckendorff, Count, 310, 312, 313, 314, 337
+
+Sefton, Lord, 231
+
+Segur, Comte Paul de, 274
+
+Serge, Grand Duchess, 256
+
+Sermet, M., 125
+
+Sesmaisons, Colonel Comte de, 7, 13, 15, 95 _et passim_
+
+Seymour, Admiral, 89
+
+Seymour, Lord William, 382
+
+Seymour, Sir Francis, 202
+
+Sheridan, May, 247
+
+Smith, W. H., holds a political reception, 269, 270
+
+Solvyns, Baron, 336, 381
+
+Somaglia, Countess, 361
+
+Southampton, Lady, 370
+
+Soveral, Portuguese Minister, 314, 330, 331
+
+Spain, King of, death of, 220
+
+Spencer, Countess, 330, 369
+
+Staal, M. de, Russian Ambassador, 223, 241, 310, 326;
+  at Hatfield,330, 331
+
+Staal, Madame de, 236, 241, 323;
+  described, 243
+
+Staal, Thekla, 226, 323
+
+Stainer, Dr., 348
+
+Stanhope, Lady, 18;
+  entertains the Waddingtons and others, 218, 219
+
+Stanhope, Lord, 219
+
+Stanhope, Mr. and Mrs. Edward, 218
+
+Stanhope, Philip, 361
+
+Stanley, Dowager Lady, 181, 182
+
+Stanleys, 355
+
+Struve, M. and Mdme. de, 120
+
+Stewart, Lady Helen, 317
+
+Stuart, Miss, 348
+
+Sudely, Lord, 297
+
+Suffield, Lady, 363
+
+Suffield, Lord, 363
+
+Sullivan, Sir Arthur, 271, 272
+
+Sutherland, Duchess of, 236
+
+Sweden, Crown Prince of, 93, 253
+
+Sweden, King of, 142, 143
+
+Sweden, Prince Royal of, 145
+
+Sydney, Lord, 359
+
+
+Tadema, Alma, 379
+
+Talleyrand, Bessie, 391
+
+Tavistock, Lord, 281
+
+Teck, Duke of, 236
+
+Teesdale, 369
+
+Tennyson, 183
+
+Thenard, 284, 285;
+ assists producing the children's comedy, 315 _et seq._
+
+Thomson, Mr., 339
+
+Thornton, Lady, 37, 80, 88, 104;
+  at the Court ball, 74;
+  aboard the Lancaster, 121, 122
+
+Thornton, Mary, 126
+
+Thornton, Sir Edward, 40, 83, 89
+
+Thornycroft, 278, 279
+
+Toll, Count and Countess, 153
+
+Tornielli, 352, 361, 377
+
+Tosti, 272, 275, 306
+
+Trebelli, 276
+
+Tremouille, Charlotte de la, 230
+
+Trevelyans, 355
+
+Troubetzkoi, Princess Lise, 49, 115
+
+Tweeddale, Lady, 201
+
+Tweedmouth, Lord, 354
+
+
+Val Prinsep, 388, 390
+
+Vannutelli, Mgr., 96, 98, 118;
+  visits the Lancaster, 122, 123
+
+Victoria, Princess, 320, 397
+
+Victoria, Queen, receives Mme. Waddington, 176, 177;
+  described, 177;
+  at Windsor Castle, 192, 193, 238, 239;
+  Drawing-room, 206;
+  holds long Drawing-room, 213, 214;
+  opens Parliament, 235-238;
+  at the Jubilee ceremonies in Westminster Abbey, 249, 250;
+  in the procession after the service, 250, 251;
+  receives at the Palace, 252, 253;
+  at the children's fete in Hyde Park, 254, 255;
+  reviews the Volunteers, 257, 258;
+  at the Naval Review, 260-264;
+  with the Empress Frederick at Windsor, 310, 311;
+  bids farewell to the Waddingtons, 368, 370-372;
+  receives Mme. Waddington at Osborne, 397-401;
+  death, 402
+
+Villiers, 226
+
+Villestreux, Mdme. de la, 364, 365, 373
+
+Vinci, Comte, 350
+
+Vivian, Lady, 210
+
+Vivian, Lord, 151, 153
+
+
+Waddington, Francis, 10 _et passim_;
+  as an actor, 285, 315 _et seq_;
+  placed in a French school, 332
+
+Waddington, Mme., meets Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone, 3;
+  M. Waddington appointed Ambassador Extraordinary to Moscow, to
+  represent France at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 4-6;
+  preparations for Moscow, 6-12;
+  arrives at Berlin, 13, 14;
+  impression of Berlin, 15;
+  visits the de Bunsens, 17, 19;
+  goes to the races, 18;
+  departure from Berlin, 22;
+  dines at Alexandrownow with a Hessian Prince, 23;
+  reaches Warsaw, 24;
+  describes the city, 24;
+  visits a chateau, 25;
+  the trip from Warsaw to Moscow, 26-31;
+  arrival at Moscow, 31, 32;
+  description of the Maison Klein, 32, 33;
+  experiences with a Court train, 36;
+  drives through Moscow, 37-39;
+  the Emperor's entrance into the Kremlin, 42-46;
+  received by the Empress, 47-52;
+  visits Princess Obolenski, 52;
+  goes over the palaces at the Kremlin, 54;
+  famous paintings and jewels in the Church of the Assomption, 54;
+  visits Princess Radziwill and Countess Pahlen, 55;
+  at the reception of the Arch Duke and Duchess Albert of Austria, 56-58;
+  attends reception at M. de Giers', 58;
+  audience with Grand Duchess Michel, 59, 60;
+  with the Grand Duchess Constantine, 60, 61;
+  with the Duchesse d'Oldenburg, 61;
+  and the Grand Duchess Wladmir, 61;
+  dines with the permanent French Embassy, 62;
+  the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 63-67, 70, 71;
+  the Coronation breakfast, 67-70;
+  at the presentation of felicitations to the Emperor and Empress, 71-73;
+  presented to the Queen of Greece, 71, 72;
+  appearance of the Embassies, 72, 73;
+  goes to the Court ball, 73-75;
+  dances with the Emperor and Grand Duke Wladimir, 74, 75;
+  the Fete Populaire, 76, 82;
+  gives a Russian dinner, 76, 77;
+  the great ball at the Palace, 77, 78;
+  goes shopping, 78, 95;
+  attends the Opera, 79, 80;
+  tea with the Empress, 80;
+  gives a diplomatic dinner, 83, 96, 99, 100;
+  photographing the whole establishment, 83, 84;
+  at the Palace ball, 85-90;
+  sees the Tresor, 91;
+  the gala dinner, 92-94;
+  the institution of the "Enfants Trouves," 95, 96;
+  gives a reception, 100, 101;
+  the revue at the Tribune Imperiale, 102-104;
+  sightseeing in Moscow, 106;
+  preparations for leaving Moscow, 107, 108, 109;
+  takes a moonlight drive to the Kremlin, 109, 110;
+  departure from Moscow, 111;
+  the journey to Petersburg, 111, 112;
+  description of Petersburg, 113, 114;
+  the Hermitage, 113, 115, 116;
+  "La Pointe," 114, 115;
+  the pictures at the Hermitage, 116, 117, 118;
+  makes an excursion to Peterhof, 116, 117;
+  dinner at the Hunts', 120;
+  entertained by Admiral Baldwin on board the flagship Lancaster, 120-123;
+  visits the Thorntons, 124, 125;
+  shopping in Petersburg, 126;
+  the voyage by steamer to Stockholm, 126-134;
+  description of Helsingfors, 129, 130;
+  Abo, the old capital of Finland, 132;
+  the approach to Stockholm, 134;
+  drives through Stockholm, 135-139;
+  to Drottningholm, 138, 139;
+  shopping in Stockholm, 141, 142;
+  journeys from Stockholm to Copenhagen, 144, 145;
+  drives through Copenhagen, 145, 147, 151, 154, 155;
+  visits the Historical Museum, 146;
+  a pleasant expedition to Tivoli, 148, 149;
+  the Thorwaldsen Gallery, 149;
+  a Swedish wedding at the Frauen Kirche, 149, 150;
+  the excessive heat, 150, 153, 160;
+  sees the treasures at Rosenburg, 152;
+  M. de Kergorlay's dinner, 152, 153;
+  departure from Copenhagen, 157;
+  from Korsoe to Kiel, 157, 158;
+  arrives at Hamburg, 158;
+  view of Hamburg from the lake, 161;
+  a moonlight drive, 163;
+  leaves Hamburg, 163;
+  arrives at Cologne, 163, 164;
+  returns to Paris, 165; stays at Boulogne-sur-Mur, 167;
+  crosses to England, 167, 168;
+  inspects her future home in London, 168, 169, 170, 171;
+  visits the Monks, 172, 173, 174;
+  getting settled in London, 173, 174;
+  presented to the Queen, 175-177;
+  Windsor Castle, 177, 178;
+  has an audience of the Prince and Princess of Wales, 178, 179;
+  with the Duchess of Cambridge, 180;
+  domestic arrangements, 180, 181;
+  visits the Dowager Lady Stanley, 181;
+  talks with Mr. Gladstone, 181 182;
+  politics, 183;
+  entertained by the Prince and Princess of Wales at Sandringham, 184-186;
+  attends a hunt and hunt ball, 187, 188;
+  at Mr. Gladstone's reception, 188, 189;
+  commanded to dine and sleep at Windsor, 191-194;
+  first Drawing-room, 194-197;
+  goes to the Derby, 197;
+  to the meet of the Coaching Club and a polo game, 197, 198;
+  reception at Devonshire House, 199;
+  dinners and routs, 199, 200;
+  Lady Tweeddale's dinner, 201;
+  at the ball of the Artillery Corps, 202;
+  Drawing-room, 203, 204;
+  sees the Queen, 204, 205;
+  Westminster Abbey, 205;
+  visits Blenheim, 209;
+  conference "sur Racine," 212;
+  long Drawing-room, 213, 214;
+  visits Lady Salisbury at Hatfield 215, 216;
+  lunches with Prince and Princess of Wales, 216;
+  at Lord Aberdeen's hay-making party, 216, 217;
+  Court concert, 217;
+  spends Sunday at the Stanhopes, 218, 219;
+  London fog, 221;
+  Christmas shopping, 222, 224;
+  farewell dinner to Nigra, 223;
+  celebrates Christmas, 225, 226;
+  impressions of a Roman Christmas, 227;
+  visits at Knowsley, 227, 228-232;
+  portraits and literary treasures at Knowsley, 229, 230;
+  visits the Falbes at Luton, 232-234;
+  St. Paul's, 234;
+  gives dinners, 234, 235;
+  attends the opening of Parliament, 235-238;
+  at Windsor Castle again, 238, 239;
+  drives to the Mausoleum, 239;
+  spends Sunday at the Karolyis at Clieveden, 240, 241;
+  defeat of the French troops at Tonkin, 241;
+  interesting old manuscripts at Roll's Court, 242;
+  Lady Ashburton's house, 242;
+  at the Opera, 242, 243;
+  visits the Tecks, 243, 244;
+  presented to the Queen of the Sandwich Islands, 245-247;
+  preparations for the Jubilee, 245, 247, 248;
+  arranges to see the cortege immediately after the service in
+         Westminster Abbey, 245-248;
+  the Jubilee Te Deum, 248-250;
+  the procession after the service, 250, 251;
+  the reception at the Palace, 251-253;
+  the children's fete in Hyde Park, 253, 254;
+  at the Rosebery's ball, 255, 256;
+  the Palace ball, 256, 257;
+  receives the Jubilee Medal, 257;
+  the Naval Review, 259-264;
+  aboard the Iphigenie, 261-263;
+  skating, 266;
+  funeral service for the German Emperor, 267;
+  at the Smiths' political reception, 269, 270;
+  musicales, 270-273, 276;
+  meets Princess Mary, 275;
+  sightseeing, 276-278;
+  christens a torpilleur, 278;
+  races at Ascot, 279;
+  visits the Duke and Duchess of Bedford, 280-282;
+  death of the Emperor Frederick, 282;
+  dines with the Lord Mayor, 283, 284;
+  production of a play by Berquin, 284-286;
+  decides to go to Scotland, 286;
+  the journey to Edinburgh, 287;
+  sightseeing in Edinburgh, 287, 288;
+  arrives at Oban, 288;
+  Scottish tartans, 289;
+  by sea to Arishaig, 290, 291;
+  stays at Inveraylort, 291-295;
+  returns to London, 296;
+  goes through Petticoat Lane with Canon Rogers, 298, 299;
+  the People's Palace, 300;
+  at the Court Ball, 300, 301;
+  the Shah's arrival by water, 301, 302;
+  the luncheon party at Hatfield in the Shah's honour, 302-304;
+  wedding of Princess Louise and the Duke of Fife, 305;
+  skates at Hatfield, 306, 307;
+  and at Wimbledon, 307;
+  attends a horse sale, 308, 309;
+  at Windsor, 310-313;
+  sees "Charlie's Aunt," 313;
+  luncheon with the Empress Frederick, 314;
+  with Lady Northcote at the Opera, 314, 315;
+  the children's comedy, 315 _et seq._;
+  formal entry of the German Emperor William II. into London, 323, 324;
+  reception of the Emperor and Empress, 325, 326;
+  Garden Party at Marlborough House, 326;
+  goes to the luncheon at Hatfield for the German Emperor, 328-332;
+  places son in a French school, 332;
+  sickness and death of Prince Eddie, 333 _et seq._;
+  visits the British Museum, 339;
+  visits the Tecks, 340-342;
+  visits "Venice," 343;
+  excursion to Herkomer's studio, 344-346;
+  opens the bazaar, 346, 347;
+  gives a dinner of organists, 348;
+  arranges a "toy symphony," 350-352;
+  at the Italian Embassy, 352, 377;
+  the Salvation Army, 353;
+  English women in politics, 355;
+  dines with the Gladstones to meet the Archbishop of Canterbury, 355,
+          356;
+  band of the "Garde Republicaine," 357;
+  visits the Dufferins at Walmer Castle, 358-360;
+  last outings, 361;
+  leaves for the Tyrol, 361;
+  returns to England, 362;
+  says good-bye to Princess Mary and Princess May, 362;
+  hears Mr. Gladstone's speech on Ireland, 363;
+  farewell visits, 363, 364;
+  farewell dinner for M. Waddington at the Mansion House, 364-367;
+  last visit to Windsor, 368, 369;
+  last Drawing-room, 369;
+  farewell audience from Queen Victoria, 370-372;
+  at the French bazaar, 373, 374;
+  a musical afternoon at Mlle. Humlicher's, 374, 375;
+  presented with a jewel, 375, 376;
+  entertains Princess Mary and Princess May, 377, 378;
+  visits Princess Louise and Alma Tadema, 379;
+  Easter Service in Westminster Abbey, 379, 380;
+  in the Temple Church, Turkish Embassy, 380;
+  departure from London, 381-383;
+  arrival in Paris, 383;
+  hears the Wagner operas at Bayreuth, 384, 385;
+  visits Mary de Bunsen, 386;
+  goes to the opera in Wiesbaden, 386, 387;
+  received by the Empress Frederick at Cronberg, 387-390;
+  at Cowes, 391 _et seq._;
+  meets the Prince and Princess of Wales at Cowes, 393-395;
+  visits the Empress Eugenie, 395, 396;
+  aboard the Nahma, 397;
+  a long audience with the Queen at Osborne, 397-400
+
+Waddington, Richard, 7 _et passim_
+
+Waddington, M. William, report of his appointment as Ambassador to
+            Vienna, 4;
+  appointed Ambassador Extraordinary at Moscow to represent France at
+            the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 4-6;
+  personnel of the Mission, 7;
+  has an audience from the Emperor of Germany, 17, 19;
+  visits Bismarck, 17, 18, 21;
+  received by Emperor Alexander, 35, 36;
+  at the reception of the Arch Duke and Duchess Albert of Austria,
+            56-58;
+  at the Coronation of Emperor Alexander, 42 _et seq._;
+  farewell audience with the Emperor, 99;
+  studies the medals at the Museum in Petersburg, 113, 115, 116, 118,
+              123;
+  his capacity for work, 122;
+  visits the Ministre des Affaires Etrangeres at Stockholm, 139, 140;
+  received by the King of Sweden, 142, 143;
+  examines the medals in the Museum at Copenhagen, 146, 148, 149, 154,
+              155, 156;
+  dines with Gladstone, 168;
+  entertained by Lord Granville, 170, 171;
+  shoots with Charles Monk, 172-174;
+  audience with the Prince and Princess of Wales, 178, 179;
+  at Windsor Castle, 191-193, 238;
+  goes to Paris, 198;
+  meets old friends, 207;
+  sees the Oxford and Cambridge boat race, 207;
+  follows Sir Walter Raleigh's example, 207, 208;
+  goes to Paris, 208;
+  talks with the Queen, 214;
+  shoots at Knowsley, 229;
+  talks with Lecky on Ireland, 229;
+  dislike of dancing, 274;
+  bids at a horse sale, 308, 309;
+  at Windsor, 311, 312;
+  dines at Mr. Murray's with Mr. Gladstone, 315;
+  death of his mother, _n._, 325;
+  at the luncheon at Hatfield for the German Emperor, 328-332;
+  at the funeral of Prince Eddie, 337;
+  talks with Lady Salisbury, 346;
+  given a farewell dinner at the Mansion House, 364-367;
+  farewell visit to Windsor, 368, 369;
+  Directeur du Canal Suez, 382
+
+Wagner, Mdme., 389
+
+Wagner, Richard, 345
+
+Wagram, Princesse de, on Boulanger, 268
+
+Waldemar de Danemark, Prince, 93, 98, 203
+
+Wales, Prince and Princess of, 37;
+  receive the Waddingtons, 178, 179;
+  entertain at Sandringham, 184-186;
+  at Buckingham Palace, 195;
+  in House of Lords, 201;
+  at the ball given by the Artillery Corps, 202;
+  Drawing-room, 203;
+  visit to Ireland, 210;
+  at the opening of Parliament, 236-238;
+  at the Opera, 243;
+  at the Jubilee Te Deum, 249, 250;
+  at the children's fete, 253-255;
+  driving, 276;
+  open the Court Ball, 300, 301;
+  at Hatfield, 303, 304, 329-331;
+  at the children's comedy, 320-322;
+  their popularity, 327;
+  death of Prince Eddie, 334;
+  bid farewell to the Waddingtons, 363, 364;
+  at Cowes, 393 _et seq._
+
+Warren, Mrs., 396
+
+Warren, Sir Charles, 246, 247
+
+Wantage, Lord and Lady, 358
+
+Warsoe, M., 151, 152
+
+Waru, military attache, 226, 259
+
+Wellington, Lord, 358
+
+Westminster, Duchess of, 274
+
+White, Harry, 218, 314
+
+White, Muriel, 317, 318
+
+Whitehouse, Harry, 145, 147
+
+Wilhemi, 345
+
+William I., Emperor, gives an audience to M. Waddington, 17, 19;
+  death, 266;
+  funeral service, 267
+
+William II., Emperor, as Crown Prince, 267;
+  State Banquet for, 323;
+  formal entry into London, 323, 324;
+  at the Opera, 325;
+  receives at Buckingham Palace, 325, 326;
+  goes to the Lord Mayor's Banquet, 327;
+  rides in the Row, 327;
+  given a luncheon at Hatfield, 328-331;
+  returns to Germany, 331
+
+Williams, Florence, 226, 348
+
+Wilson, Sir Rivers, 276
+
+Wimborne, Lord, 354, 379
+
+Wladimir, Grand Duchess, 61, 80
+
+Wladimir, Grand Duke, at the coronation of his brother,
+        Emperor Alexander, 66;
+  at the Court ball, 74, 75;
+  his care for the Emperor, 77;
+  at the Palace ball, 86;
+  at the revue, 103
+
+Wolff, Johannes, 270-272, 276, 314
+
+Wolseley, General, 58, 89
+
+Wormser, 314
+
+Worontzoff, Count, 77, 80, 116
+
+Wurts, George, 120
+
+Wyckham, Col., 147
+
+Wyndham, 286
+
+
+York, Duke of, 363, 393, 397
+
+Yves, 190
+
+
+Xenia, Grand Duchess, 45
+
+
+Zuylen, Mdme. de, 274
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes: The following spelling corrections were made:
+
+p. 23: "I said I would come with pleassure" changed to read "I said I
+would come with pleasure".
+
+p. 28: "generally a collection of litttle" changed to read "generally a
+collection of little".
+
+p. 34: "they all wear red flannnel" changed to read "they all wear red
+flannel".
+
+p. 69: "As soon the the Sovereigns had taken" changed to read "As soon
+as the Sovereigns had taken".
+
+p. 109: "where the suppper" changed to read "where the supper".
+
+p. 110: "I took a last look at the black Madonnna" changed to read "I
+took a last look at the black Madonna".
+
+p. 111: "how we managed to eat chicken and mayonnaaise" changed to read
+"how we managed to eat chicken and mayonnaise".
+
+p. 118: "We have just come in from a pleasant dinner at the Juares"
+changed to read "We have just come in from a pleasant dinner at the
+Jaures".
+
+"Admiral Juares was very hospitable" changed to read "Admiral Jaures was
+very hospitable".
+
+p. 142: "there are always babauds hanging over" changed to read "there
+are always badauds hanging over".
+
+All instances of "cortege" and "cortege" were changed to "cortege".
+
+Small Caps denoted by "#" and Italics by "_".
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, by
+Mary King Waddington
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF A DIPLOMAT'S WIFE ***
+
+***** This file should be named 38825.txt or 38825.zip *****
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